The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-11-05
FRANCES GREAT WINE YEAR.
EXCELLENT PROMISE or TIE VINTAGE
or BURGU INDY y BORDEAUX.

ctons during successive years, tho poor quar-
ity of the wine made. and n rise in the price OF
tho older and better vintaEcs. well nigh oc-
casioned a revolution in the national bever-
age. and cider. formerly confined to one or two
provinces. suddenly achieved u momentary and
rapid prominence. In England beer could
never DO dcthroncd, BIO 1t ever SO adulterated
by tho INSCRIPTIONS publican, and except in
Devonshire the apple wine has never been
very popular. But in France the extraordi-
nary fertility Of the orchards in Normandy and
brittany, where this year the ample trees
broke under the weight " the fruit. made it
probable that cider sold at fifteen centimes
tono and n half penny tho litro would soon
find its way to all parts OF tho country. and
supcrsede the cheap qualities OF wine sold ut
six or seven times that figure.
However. the equally unprecedented vintage
in tho south Of FRANCE has in q fashion neil
tralized the apparent preponderance of cider.
which after this III onentary general demand
will have to remain at homo for consump tion
in the depnrtments where it is made and is 80
largely used or undergo foreign importation.
Cider is avowedly u wholesome and invigorat-
ing beverage: it was the drink OF the Celts and
of the men Of the North. lust as wine has al
ways been tho drink OF the Latins. But what
ever the excellence and cheapnoss OF cider it
never will become II favorite to those born and
bred to the consumption OF wine. and it will
not have n single chance in its favor rs soon as
wine is once more good and inexpensive.
The grape growers OF southern France. taken
unawares by the wealth of the, harvest. found
the gamer for their inadvertence. In some
parts of the crane country wine from the watts
hectolitres There will. tn ~erefote. be no diff
culty-,proyided orders are given In timemin
clarot at about eighty franc s the casN, and the
same wine from the Paris agents or others at
punlity is sure to improve greatly. and in ten
years time. II kept in . good cellar. 1t will bs
nted wine. in which the crane Juice enters for
a snail grrorcrtion' ito to the pnrG n nr and
These will hnh to-day a rare ,oppor.
are compelled to sell their reserves in order TO
quantity of new wine they are making. It is
expeeted that a GonSidsrHSIG Increase enS in The
sS@s Of i'"a the !, ehe iiesI'i bTaHas H viii 5 HPd
their way to Russia and America. The
cxtraoriinary circumstances. for ii is only the
EourInc, or experienced connoisseur who buys
81 Mh 6nn d9ss ho f Il e. N 5ae f err many 81 years. asg5 ats t.
te n t. t. eompet9 with or ever dethrone the
which 1t owes its name-a wine which is found
now only in the possession Of a few houses
ard some l.rge restaurant. where it Is sold at
The French. the Bcl.ians. and the Swiss are
the people who. still have good cellars; In
deauville. Mr.. Bischoirsheim. and some others
are noted for their appreciation and taste in
Noisin and of the Cafe Anglais are estimated
at lO.Oo0,000 or T.. 0Oo.00O francs: Some ofthe
known fact that the clubmen who will pay
the price for it are daily getting scarcer; and.
resfeiitsi s' msd ie the the n myers 4p Ssins e ffs Gei! dr.
eigners or the restaurants. who are well aware
t Wjtb t y fo man ? WGG bo az Hle Of cI VINE WI Vii, Pc ss ssaiIi tsa
times that sum when he gives. a dinner or q
snpn.er at the places still fashionably called
Curiously enough. neither clubs nor ~restnu-
rants reckon champagne among the wines that
c!arets and Burgundies and look down upon
champAgne; tho reason for this contsnpt lies
Claret and burgundy are emphatically the
children OF, their native soil; they cannot DO
RRS Ssisancs IKE t'S Soats and nhf l qns s0f @ fatsS eIa lst
acquires in the silent, shadow OF the cellar,
light cobwe6s. the meIiowness and havor that
enhance its values, champagne only loses with
age the sparkle and freshness that were the
Next t? the wines OF the south OF France a
serious importance attaches to the hrandies
some venerable fine champagne is spoken
Of with. ecstacy Ivy connoissours. The excel
the nature OF the casks in which it has rested.
but when once matured and bottled. contrary
TO what takes place with wine. 1t remains sta
tiOnary.
Many no,w"n,r riches and impromrtu mil:
lionaircs are most anxious to create a good
cellar. 1t is a problem not easily solved. for q
really ,ilrst-rate collar cannot be impr ovised
aIiae 'i tbs y perlec Il nl'f fim TO- P taats. aud m mo- rs1
are req Iircd.. Tnste. in order to detect and
ayoid imposition and the artiul and secret falls
incntions and authorizations practiSed by OK
rerts and folsted on tho market: time. because
even genuine and matured wines will suller
are transplahted from one cellar. to which
they have grown accustomed. into another
for prime ~vtntages can never be had cheap
There are, in all European, capitals. and
the growers and consumers. some are per-
iectly honest. no doubt. but it Is always nett err
are not wanting Of cases Ia which the midiie:
man has. with diabOllcnl ingenuity falsilcd
known connoisscur happening to meet a gem
tlomdn introduced to him as u noted wine
grove nGt whose EE4o"s name he did not catch;
yPt h added. that stun was bought from
Impossible p said the other. lam NJ, VI.
aud | sell only prim" qualities Of wine
that NJ. NJ. us agent had for the lasttwo years
aduiterated tho wine; deceiying, the general
public TO his own profit. but 10 the disgust OF
Kare and precious vines. the gems Of the
at public or private hanluets. in COM
financial, or family circles. there
the natives. the English and russians
are the greatest European consumers. but the
latter. like the Americans. have Tor many years
given the preference to champagne and spar
King wines. which AT some tables are. with the
exception of II glass Of sherry after the soup.
tho only wines served.
Germans. Spaainrds. and Italians appreciate
the best brands OF Bordeaux and Burgundy;
when the Irince OF Wales stops at the Hotel
Bristol in Pari- he habitually asks for u bottle
clarct ten years old.
In spite Of the devastating invasion OF phyl-
.oNera. o. oidium. of all the disastrous CASUAL
Hos that affect the culture OF the grape. and
If chr mI"gnn ithn spmndT nhI !, onnh wina
llrrady mentioned. mnturcd and selected with
and loving appreciation. must ever
remain the best, most wholesome and invlgor-
tting, and u. year like the present, bidding
air TO rival the most famous hHryests % tho
century, cannot fail to rrtStahllsh their SUI
orenncy ami insure for thein u speedy and
lucrative sale. NJ. DE :.
Why SIR. Kelley Turned Train Hobber.