The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-02-12
Observation-Disclosures
ODD INCIDENTS OF FOREIGN
TRAVEL AND OBSBRvATION-Vu.


ing Visit to the Old Monks Haunts
of Great skelliG Rock-Early Mass
IN Valletta - Curious Incidents of
DEMONSTRATION Folk Not
the Brave Drinkers They Were.
CCoDvriGht.l
LONDON, Jan. 3O.-I wonder how many
Americans ever visited the famous Skel-
ugs of the southwest coast of Ireland? They
are the most southwesterly extensions of
Ireland are three in number; and lie in a
direct line southwest Of Port Magee. The
first and the least, is called Lemon Rock.
It is round, solid mass rising only few
feet above the water. The second, OF next
larger, is called Little, or Lesser, Skellig,
and is a craggy grouping of rocky pinnacles
standing grim and black against the sky
as though some city of churches with won
drous steeples had been submerged, rearing
above she waves their mighty Gothic spires,
among which millions of sea-birds had
fouad their desolate homes.
The third, the Great Skelig. is precisely
nine miles at sea from Port Magee. 1t is
an enormous and precipitous mass of rock
rising perpendicularly at nearly all angles
to the hight of several hundred feet, and
from thence pushing skYward in stupendous,
irregular groups, terminating In two lofty
pinnacles, the highest of which reaches an
altitude OF TO feet. 1t is said that the ocean
souudings around it are far deeper than
those in any part Of the English channel
and at no other point upon the whole At
lantic are witnessed such awful battles be-
tween wave and stone. The base of the
only lighthouse now in use upon Great
Skellig stands upon a leveled rock 40 feet
above the sea, and the roof of this lofty
structure was few years ago crushed in
and partly carried away by the assaults of
the waves. which must have been lifted up
wards of $50 feet above the sea level to have
been dashed upon itl
A determination 70 land upon and scale
Great Skellig rock is more easily formed
than is the project perfOrmed; for certain
destruction attends attempted landing, save
when old ocean may be caught mapping and
for a few hours quite at rest. Every day
for nearly week, with Kerry fisherman
friend, arose before day and tramped TO
the cliffs below Port Megee for forecast OF
wind, Gather and sea. At last propitious
day came. With my friend and three of
his hardy companions we set forth in q
strong open boat with the outgoing tide
from the tiny pier of the port, and without
stroke of oar we're soon sweeping through
the southern entrance of the harbor of
Valentia.
The sea was perfectly calm as we left the
channel, save where lmperCeptible distant
swells mRssing upon the haf-hidden ledge
that protects the harbor entrance, flung
glittering spume and spray landward be-
hind us. Over to the west, Bray Head rose
nTecipitously 1000 feet out Of the water.
Beyond this, innumerable fishers sails
blended like a huge On-cOming surge at the
edge of the horizon. To she left grim
headlands stretched away IN dark projec-
tons to far Bolus Head and the long, regu-
lar stroke Of the oarsmen soon sped US past
Putin Island. In an hour aud q half, we
we're alongside Lemon Island lying like
some sleeping half-hidden monster to our
right; and in two hours time we had come
abreast Of Little Skellig.
Here we were favored with character
istic sight. This island is the only one off the
Irish coast where the putin haunts and
breeds in countless numbers. Taking ad-
vantage of the placid sea, perhaps three
score cOastwise folk were here seeking these
fowl within the assures and clefts OF the
crags. Many aerial battles between men
slung with ropes from dangerous nights
and the birds they were mercilessly seek
ing, were seen in progress as we passed.
The eggs and flesh of the putin are eaten,
their feathers dried and sold and a trifing
traffic is carried on in picked. or cured,
puttins which are exchanged for potatoes
and meal with the country folk of the
Iveragh wilds.
At last the Great Skellig was reached and
we made a landing without difficulty at the
only spot upon which foot can be set from
the sea. begged the boatmen to climb the
crags with me, but they shook their heads
gravely and refused. The reason for this,
as related by my fisher friend who con~
sented to accompany me. was on account
OF certain pOrtenGOus superstitions the
peasantry and fishermen tenaciously hold
regarding the spot. The only human be-
lnZs now living upon Great Skellig are
those having charge Of the light house.
But more than a thousand years 0go,
hundreds, IL not thousands, passed their
lives In religious devotions upon this wild
sea- mountain; for this place was then the
-. Michaers Mount of Ireland. Its history
was luminous even in the earliest days of
Christianity in Erin. A majestic monastery
once stood in the little valley between the
TWO lofty peaks Of the island. From the
single landing place go stone steps, many
portions of which remain, led to the
monastery, the great cRshel, tbs oratories,
lhe stone cells, the ancient burial place, and
many unrecorded structures which the In
ca!culable toll and jealous conservation of
remote age grouped within this racred spot.
lastly traced remains or nearly all these
structures still exist; aud fragments of
gigantic crosses here and there push through
the strange debris, whose contemplation
cannot but send thrill through the least
Impressive heart.
Far, far above this tens Of thousands of
pilgrims in the intervening centuries have
climbed. Near the top Of the highest pin-
hacle one must squeeze through narrow
0fihee called the Needles Eye in order TO
follow their olden painful way. just be-
yond this is narrow ridge or saddle of
sohd rock. One must get sstride this aud
WORK along with legs and hands until an
ascending rock Is reached. The danger
mere is terrible. One false movement. and
you are plunged into the sea from either
sue. From this to the highest point any
sure,rooted man may pass securely to the
slender yard-wide summit, along which are
Ioqnd rudely sculptured crosses or stations.
nave been in some. eerie spots in my
travel, but never before have / stood where
suon sense or sublimity mingled with awe
Inspiring insecurity possessed me. On three
slles you look down black, straight line Of
over 200 feet into the ocean. Behind
aud below you are the solemn
tulns OF remote ages. Far to the
Hor5h aud east is the weird, sea-walled
coast. Your own land is 1000 miles be-
yohd those white specks of fisher-b9ats TO
.ne west. Around and above you are only
Tue palpable clouds and ghostly whistle of
9Sarlng sea-brd's wings. The solemn gran
eeur and awful impressiveness Of the place
are appalling.
Tho a..