The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1893-04-29
Immense Quantities of
Material Used in Spring
Costumes for Women.
POINTS ABOUT MEMS DRESS
Reform in Frock Coats-New Styles
in Collars aVorite Light
Overcoats.

on her person in perfect accordance with
present fashions is appalling. II the
I manufacturers of dress fabrics do not
make their fortunes now they never will
for reaction is sure to follow. The light
stuffs are coming in, and though sensible
women are determine ed not to be weighted
down by undue width in heavy materials.
they have gradually become so accus-
customed to the look of moderately wide
skirts that hardly a protest is offered
against having skirts immediately
wide. For a tweed, serge or cloth gown
three yards and a half was considered all
that could be borne, bat in crepon. foul
ard, g~renadine and shot silks lids not
unusual for skirts TO measure six yards
round. of course for evening gowns
this figure would not nearly touch the
real number of yards often measured by
a deep flounce OF crepon. chiffon or lisse.
The new materials are woven wide
enough TO permit of the skirt being cut
with only one seam at the back. The
cutting Is a matter Of great skill. for the
best gowns do not bulge a. all round the
hips. The spring is all out in a good
sweep to the back and at the sides low
down.
SLEEVES.
The King who wanted to Know how
the apple got inside the dumping might
we'll INQUIRE how woman's arms gets
inside the front portion of their sleeves, SO
tight are the latter. They are slit open
up the under side and fastened with fiat
buttons, most uncomfortable for writing
In, as the wrist has TO rest upon them.
Had good Mother Nature bestowed upon
such q limb as the dressmakers make OF
rh1,r orrn rhau vunr11n nffap pr0n6arod
why it should be so huge above the elbow
and so 'skimped" below 1t. But nature
modelled the feminine arm with an eye to
grace and beauty. The dressmakers
worship eccentriclty. They never induce
their more cultivated customers. how
ever. to adopt any extravaganza OF mode.
The best dressed women in England
revers in the same degree as the rather
ill-advised individuals who make OF their
persons blocks on which are displayed
the latest vagaries of the costumer. No
one of real refinement would be likely Go
lend her tigcre to such purpose.
DIFFERENT FROM OUR WEATHER.
Athorities all agree that such warm
weather has not been experienced at the
end of March and the beginning of April
in the British Isles for sixty years. No
wonder every one foundwinter wraps I'M
bearably oppressive and exchanged them
for the dainty spring capes, which We're
biding their time in he store windows
and tempting the passers-by to reckless
eXtrayagance. Little bonnets n ca
potes, q mass of flowers, also made their
appearance in the warm and genial SUM-
shine. Very bright and gay they looked,
made Of yellow or pink roses. hyaoinIhs
and violets. The prettiest have a bow OF
Jet gallon placed in front, and jetted drops
railing on the hair at the back. Steel is
x,- IL .,aaI RI rrfrr1 brfc unA hopnofc ond
sometimes jet is introduced at the same
time. the two combined on the same bon
net, trimmed with bouquets of black and
yellow ~jonQuils, the centres to the flowers
being composed of jet. The strings were
black velvet. Another smart bonnet has
a mass of PINK rose petals Tor the crown.
The prim is a fantasle of gold metal and
maize straw. An upright bow OF gold
lace, embroidered in white silk. adorns
the front and Is held in place by two roses
and fanciful jet pins.
SEAMLESS PARASOLs.
II you want to be in the very height of
fashion as regards your parasol, you must
see that 1t is seamless. The newest are
simply covered with a circular piece of
silk, in the centre of which q hole is cut
to pass the point of the stick through.
One met with the other day was In a
lovely Powered foulard. shot with blue
and rose color. 1t was unlined and edged
with a louDce of plain blue silk. Another
model was. OF black faille, bordered with
broidered with pink roses and green
leaves. The eponized handle TO tnis was
adorned with a iewelled lizard aud tied
round with a bow of ribbons repeating
the tones of the EN- broidery. Many of the
| new parasols may be closed by means OF
| pulling a silk cord which is attached in
an ingenious way to the sunshade.
nsbo CvooI fo~ nuTropn 10 In n raof ~ ~
this season. 1t seems to have partially
displaced true lovers knots, a design
| which has been In high favor for many
| years. On trimmings it Will be seen until
| 1t becomes n~auseating. There is some
| thing graceful and flowing in true
lovers knot, but the other is hard and
stiff. 1t appears to belong rather to
| geometry or some such science than to
the kingdom of chiffons.
BAGS VS.. POCKETS.
| Elegantes are solving the much dis
| cussed question of where a pocket should
be by adopting the plan of carrying a
little bag or pocket made TO match each
one of their gowns. Occasionally these
! petites poches are composed of brocade
richly embroidered and worked with the
| fair owners monograms. They are
| usually carried in The hand. A safer
plan. however, Is to attach them by
| means of a cord or ribbon to 1.-THE waist
band.
G~renadine will be one of The favorite
materials throughout the late spring and
summer. Some of the new grenadines
are lovely, and like all the new things
for this season, very costly. One silky
looking texture has curduroy-like lines OF
chenille raised from the surface in shot
pink, blue. gray and green, the effect
being soft and pretty. The idea OF these
fancy grenadines Is to make them up
with plain material q with vel
vet or lace. Used in that way they are
most effective, and make the gowns look
COSTLY and up to date. Whole dresses Of
these stuffs would look heavy and ma
tronly. There are very pretty varieties
having single lines of some one color
drawn through Them In large squares.
Black, with the squares defined in a
or pale green or pale blue, looks charm
ing mace up with silk of the same shade.
and with satin ribbon to match, q it
may be, some good lace. There are also
grenadines with little raised dots in color
all over them. These, however, have the
irritating drawback that when they are
| closely inspected the dots appear TO dance
about In a most bewildering y perplex-
ing way.
FOR MEN. o
But there are fashions for men as well
as for women, albeit theyado not change
go rapidly or completely. High hats. silk
hats, chimney-pots are no longer OF the
tall and stately pattern. 1t a man wants
to be in the fashion be must now wear q
comparatively l-ow-crowned hat with a
broad brim; in fact a bat cut down by
about three or four inches. The shape is
not altogether unlike the old beaver hats