New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-05-21
SWEET SCENTS MINGLED.
HOW FLOWER PERFUMES ARE TRANS
FERRED FROM THE GARDEN TO
THE TOILET TABLE.

c,vi,,yation How them about perfumed soapsi
And most soaps nowadays perfumed. Moreover
why are the other to BE- pleased. with sweet
sounds and beautiful coors and well-navored dishes,
and the nose denied the qualification OF delicious
odors? argues the lover OF perumery' anu iasmoD
seldom says him nay.
Most OF orr perfumes come from flowers. or are
made In imitation OF the scents OF MOVERS Anu -
The rose Is the legendary queen OF MOVERS 80 a''as
OF roses. by a common consent, ranks at the head
OF the list Of perfumes. Other preparations IRON
oses too hold high place. and have long oeeh
much esteemed ROsc-water Is historic "ne~
ALADDIN entered Jerusalem. in the tweith century, No
had tho walls Of the Mosque OF Omar washed WIZ
It, But altar, or oil, OF roses is by far the moss
precious and most priced OF ALL An Eastern p'in0e
will present to an honored guest rich jewels ruo'os
and diamonds, and then. ado. as the rarest OF an'
crystal bottle filled with this priceless essence.
For many centuries the growing OF roses ior INC
manufacture OF perfume has been an Important IN
dustrv in many places. Sand sang OF rose gardens
I'm Persia and the bard of the Nibelungs sang OF .
wondrous rose-Sarden at Worms upon the Kmne'
In the south OF France. and In Algeria, rosecuitufS
f. conducted upon large scale. shiraz. IN rers'a:
and Ghazipur in India, have long been impor'ans
centres OF the industry; and has MednetelFayoum'
I, Ecvpt But most noted OF all. yielding inc
largest Quantity and the finest quality, Is kezanhR'
in Eastern Rumea-the Valley OF Roses.
This lovely valley lies the southern slope OF the
calkans sheltered by their towering sues i'oi 'ns
cold north winds, and IS the centre OF district "oA
vicIds on an average nearly 1000 POUNDS a'oi"up''.
q, altar Of roses representing commercial vaue OF
Z, an 600 In 1856 the Yield reached the excepuohahy
Itch Gcrrc OF $3.50 pounds: but now and then tho
farmers have to meet an unusually 'bad SEASON. ID "
1870 when the Weld sank to 1soo pouhos' i"' ioss
crowers OF this region distributed IN h'fc 'lh wv
,il,ores and as there no ccntrai I"''"i'e' MN
ooc grower cnlrivaes his small farm and carries on
tho Tho OS,
flowers by his own labor and the LABOR Oh MS a'""s'
49,, ,oco,ipr IN lis means and information. thcre 's'
~ necessity great diversity OF deaii III 'he e'"'
q, horticulture and OF distillaon beiore ,'e n"'
turkish war; the industry was mainly earr'ou y" ~
uussulmans but OF late years the MuSsuitnhh popui.
lion has largely migrated to Cns'an'ihHp'e anu ~,
Minor and the rose lands have been occupied oS nu'
garlans. - ,o,,., .on
For tho purpose OF distlaton, copper vessei con-
,,rc obout forty okcs. fourteen gallons Oh ""e'
| + used and into this some fifteen or t"'"S P".
| NJ freshly gathered roses are throwh' i"e ""'e' -
,bcn allowed to boil for an hour and n quarter vi M
bour and a half, over an open hre' t"' Nhpor p.
| ho,c carried BY means OF pipe, I" reHise''
Tho nroduc Of this first dsillation Is then paceu III
| nn.r ,yhor, II condenscs, the "essen,lnl OH sep
! ii, ,tsc,r from the water and naturally hoa'ins
q, the top This essential oil, or a''r' WIZ" ''
| .onar,tion Is finally complete Is remo'eu no"' .
,oo n, tbc water with a kind Of spoon, terminating
in funnel an operation requiring the greatest
ond monipulntive skill. In order TO proo"oe sim"
Mound OF the precious oil, abo"t S,'oo Pou"N'
| aowers have to be used Formerly the q''n', =.
| , Greater and in France double the quahuty "
sometimes employed TO produce altar OF we ILL., ~.
quality But Of late. in the valley OF he1"hn., ..'
| deIicacy OF the perfume has been somewhat 'a.''"
ohouch one OF the large uses engageh III ''e I'm,
merce Is said TO use habually twcn'See"' p'"" -.
60. ., ,our.ocn gallons Of water for It's n"ess
| means unusual fer much as h''N p'"""'
| , ,b 6f,ocn Gallons of water The transfer OF 'ns
r,.o,,;,r rose plantations bulgarian hands leu :"
an ATTEMPT being made under the immeaia'e pn',o"s
Of the Sultan to transplant the Industry 10 asa 49,
MANY thousands Of rose trees from kezank nave 80
| o,onted BIZ Mussulman emigrants NJ nro"''a D..
Io,,,m. RochtchHighi, near Candilli, on tne DUE
phorus. r,oh h,cbi are in
IN ou,.oftbe.way place. accessible only ." ~ -
| borsoback The trees were pmn'u IA -.
| rows much as vines are planted inuee", " .,
| districts vines and roses are piah'eu "',"
snd a, Tho harvest the sight Is worth long !our".'
4 % 600 The first gathering OF roses AZ i."D
hacd was in 1856. three years ni'er inc h.s' Sma,
,,an and the result more than satisfied the ouHA"
| and his advisers. 49,, -, osos known to
| ho,onis,s the two which experience III, P'o,N
-, , s,,tcd TO the extraction Of the altar Oh CUM
|
Wv .o,,,o, A soutbeastery exposure IN, ac'
| ,,,, IN uonkowsM Bey the Imperial chemS'' w.
host for the trees and the soil shoad Dc ioo'v ,
candy Large districts OF Asia MINOR iuni "A ~
| conditions necessary for rose culture anu 80 .,.
justified in holding out hopes 'tt l" '"e' -
homes the emigrants from hcza"h" may sa,,ou.
rose farms that VIII riVal t"e i''''0 -
valley OF Roses .,,,,o. from
,nc Manufacture OF marketable perfumes rom
nowers Is n delicate art In WHICH po'u '"e""''
knowlcdrc and quick natural pcrc'f'ions ~.
urcd for success The first process Is Tue eA''''0
,,op Of the essences by disiillaiion i'rSc oopi'
,.sso, M oeu,ldc i flied with water 'oo"' WV
', - a.. con,c,tx. the flowers tn be treated are
,hcn ,n,roduccd and II Is heimctcally c!o'ea- ~
,,or n,accd on a fire: usually gas or steam - "se~
for ,bis purpose. steam is generated ny 'i'is "'"
in The cylinder and Is carried BY means Oh p'p'
into 4 second cylinder which Is cohS'ah'iy Nep. ie.
n,crisbed with cold water, and Is furnished WIN an
n,,rno,y cock. The pipe in its passage through
THIS second ylnder Assumes me iD' -, od ~ fh.
TINS coil end, IN eHcE NJ es ns exdeS drop
hyy dIon as the steam becomes condeiisea III ts
pa,sagc e, rnii,,;,d in small glass vessel while at
mo same time the water colltllhhE Sn. Po 800.
oa OIL, t"e U, perinmrd becomes the rose-wates
or grange flower water Of eonbe'. ~ ~ ,nr s,rb a.
Susceptible OF this ireamcni-some OF tln , su. 90
icsSammc violet cassie. tuberos' etc. containing no
essence nave 10 treated ny oinervnt so,x -
produces but pound OF essence Tor one nrS
POUND, of flowers This essence Is s,, ~ the dis
ana ana, IS nc rns ine Ear aud Italian frontier
', Charlie essences thus obtained. combined ana
m,xed together with ceIain quantity Of aidSh" q;
'ao a" coocnc toilet vinegar. lavender water, etc.
There are two processes. used for the PURPOSE Oh ex,
, III, nerfumc from flowers which do not contain
,n xnioiil essence Tie hrst may be described az
the cold process and the second s the hot process
The former is generally used Tor cassie tA .i,
iaIncrianal jessamne. jonpuils tnberoses, vioets
and some other flowers. ,.-
Freshly gathered flowers are placed upon layer
n, MIRO lard one-foarth Inch In thickness, spreao
over sheet glass about two feet SQUARE WHEN y
framed I'm wood and forms kind of tray. lnese
,ravs sometimes forty MY together, are tneI
nil,d upon one another: e." flowers are clangrH
Very eighteen twenty iour hours, ACCOM-
inc 10 circuns and the process Is mus con-
tnued until the lard Is sufficiently CHARGED VII per,
/ r,,nc Jcssamine and tuberusc are frequently
hanced as often as fifty times before the lard Is con-
no srGcinnfy imnrccnacd cassie ana vlO-