The record-union., 1893-09-02
Special Correspondence Of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright 1891
OBAN, Scotland, August 10, 1898

Special Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright 1881
OBAN, Scotland, August 49, 1898.
The purple shadows of evening were
falling among its heather-swarded corries
when we whirled through the Pass OF
Awe. Then came long stretch Of desc
late-looking heath. Then follow dim
gIimpses of the weird ruins Of Castle Dun
staInage and the misty Falls of Lora. So
it was night, with picturesque lights and
shades upon the sound. and gentle hum
of quiet and repose within the streets
when the train crept into Oban, the most
noted watering place. of Scotland, and a
fine large creature With the dialect of
skye and an atmosphere of usquebaugh
guiltless Of the taint Of excise, after in
forming me with winsome honesty that
both himself and ali the hotels We're
flu" for a silver saxpance, in hand
paid, conducted me with some forgivable
detour and delay to a very old, very
tiny, but still very tidy and comfortable
inn.
The guidwife Of the inn had some
doubts about admitting me. She heard
my wanderers story in silence, and ex-
amined nay credentials critically. Then
she retired for whispering consultation
with her female servants, during which l
overheard with some trepidation the re-
mark:
He Gamma be mucle wiz but ain wee
handbag"
80, ay,' was urged by another voice,
but mOny Ionkees ha' god teed Oop i
theer claes'
"Aweal, III take him o'ernicht, an
put him i tn dochter's room, if he's ma
ill to tholeu'
She hade me enter with some asperity
lighted candle and conducted me UP Il
narrow, winding stair. We entered a large,
low-ceilinEed room, with TWO tiny Win
dOws like embrasures Of a tOrtalice, whose
furniture consisted solely OF high old
fashioned bed, rickety table OF deal, a
huge armchair and a rag carpet of the
Old zig-zag pattern. She set the candle
upon the deal table with bang, and then
with the AIR OF cOnierrlng some WOnQrOus
favor abruptly asked:
Dye ken where ye are noo?'
gave II up as pleasantly as I could
not yet being familiar with the geography
OF Oban.
"D'ye ken abOot DOchter Johnson?v
The great Doctor Johnson who once
visited Scotland with BOswell?p
"Ay. that's th' mon. Ye've cotton the
varra room he loadged in. He had the
bonniest nicht here in Scotland. Pm
sure though tn hOos was weel quat o.
him, he snOOred sac load tn plaster a
crackit! But ye ha' th' same chair, the
same bed an a.. lis a muckle delight
to a. that cOOm."
And the same bed-clothes ?" l asked
ruefully, with a glance at the stuffy be-
Iongings. ~ ou know, my good woman,
that was l3O years ago.
II doot, sir" she answered with spirit,
yere takln me oOp Wrang. Dinna be
sac mUckls auld-mOu'd. Deed the claes
ha' been weel washit syne -
And with this the guidewite snapped
herself out OF the room in high dudgeon.
but returned shortly in restored good
humor and with request for my order for
tea.
For the benefit of those who come after
me, l should reveal the truth that it is
one thing 10 order a meal at a Scottish. or
Tor that matter at an English inn, and
quite another accomplishments to secure
what you are led to believe the hostel
affords. l do not refer to those large and
respectable city establishments where If
your Dlli may be more confusing than at
the average American hotel your com
tort VIII be quite as well looked after,
but TO those countless pretty and coZy
places of entertainment one must needs
so often resort to in extended travel in
the interesting provincial regions OF
Britain.
carnal of US viii dwell upon enticing Wis
ions of savory chops and luscious cold
joints, and the appetite Is even bold
enough TO modestly plead for warm pota-
toes. Settled at your inn, these forgiva-
Die longlngs find immediate expression,
GU decide on having nice tidy supper
In your own room. what would YOU
like Tor tea, sir?" evol1es the hopeful in
curry as to what there may be most
handy and hearty in the house ooh.
anything you like, sir, is invariably the
placid response. RapturOus professions
OF steamlng toothsome things are in
stanuy conjured. Nou suggest a mutton
chop, thick, rare and hot, a plate of
cheese, tea or coffee and cream, waiter,
by ali means cream, and perhaps
toast or biscuit. Your waiter begins to
wear look Of panied surprise. nm see
81 once, SIR" and he disappears; disap-
pears for such ruesOme time, that YOU
are III proper mood for compromise
when he returns with, The chops are
hout, sir, an l was told to say, Sir. 'ow
as we never serves pertaters fur tea, sir, -
"Oh, very well; make it some cold Joint
and cheese then; plenty of it now; here 5
slNpence tor yourself, Look sharp.
now, I'm hungry" There is laggard-
ness in his step and tone, but he answers
YOU respectfully enough: All right, sir,
I'll see directly"
\ long time now elapses. You begin
TO really worry. Perhaps you may have
the Jomerity to pull the tassel of a nuge
bellcord, and aiarmingiy hear the result
ant changing and clamor like that from
the efforts Of a new set Of change-ringers.
A shock -headed maid plumps her shock
head within the door. She, too, seems
alarmed. and she asks, what might Won
be Waniin', sir2" Nop toss her a six
ponce and explain. She also says she'll
see about it directly" The waiter at
length taps at your door, but does not
come IN. He warily inserts his napkined
arm and portion of his head. ''Sorry.
sir, but the cheese an the JOINTS locked
up, sir. Night there he anything else
You might be wishiu' to ave, sir?"
kaVenous and desperate you repress