The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-11-08
tie fullness. A plain revered bodice is

all the waist shows.
But there was q significance about
these quiet gowns: Each woman was
the embodiment Of grace, of good
taste and of the latest in gowns. Their
simplicity marked them out from the
gay throngs that swept on with them,
and the fastidious, satiated eye
quickly discovered them. More than
that, the dresses indicated that
fashion will need to adapt itself to the
assertion of common sense in women.
Heavy stuffs, brilliant colors, outre
ideas, are all very well for brief
space in the autumn, to match natures
glowing tints; but when it comes to
the winter wardrobe, to gowns that
must last for full season, more sta
bility is demanded-a shade and ma
terial that will not be homogeneous in
nine ont of ten situations. And SO it
is that we have lapscd from black and
white into all black, and shall branch
out from thence into the rich browns,
the dullest greens and coppers.
The ovexslsirt is presenting itself in
new form daily, although the Skirt of
three distinct rutdes, slightly crino-
lined at the edge, or the skirt of but
two rufies, with long basque over to
form third. has sufficient of an over
skirt suggestion to satisfy many tall
women. Of course the shorter figure
never takes the triple skirt into con-
sideration. The triple combinations
go merrily on, though they are simply
old friends with new faces; and our
arms are large enough to take them all
in. Here is plain skirt with three of
the finest ruft1es at the edge; here a
double skirt, the upper one falling at
two-thirds length, with triple-stitched
edges. A basque that is perfect
ly plain and fastens invisibly
at the side forms the third
rufie. A sloping 1880 collar, likewise
absolutely foldless, falls over her
rufiled sleeves. a skirt that has triple
arrangement of fancy bands starts with
three of them. close together: continues
with a double row, and ends in single
twist Two hip ruff1es give sufficient
fullness above. A black net has the
triple skirt, and each ruffle bears three
satin bands at the edge; and so it goes.
But our overskirt is blooming out
1t is pretty in its present mild form,
and we are beguiled by its seeming in
nocence. The soft way it has of fall
ing about the other skirt. the little
cascade and scallops. are very fetch
ing. But some models show Grapes
not half SO graceful that fall in
heavier lines about the hip.
A charming afternoon gown is one
OF dark blue, shot with various dark
tints. A quaint skirt trimming is an
arrangement of diagonal bands.
pointed at the top, that run all
around the bottom. The sloping
shoulder collar is different in that it
runs down to a point in front and
back. At the base OF the standing
collar a short rufiie stands out: all
three have embroidered edges. and the
narrow belt is OF the same fancy
variety. The balloon sleeve puffs are
caught in at three places.
1t is a tie between the tailor
made girl and the overskirt
girl; and the former is certainly
coming out in some of the neates. and
triulmest Of skirts, that clear the
ground well, SO that she has a free,
easy motion IN her walk Something
OF the overskirt is given TO one by a
soutache that marks of square seal
lops at the feet. and has three rows
of stitching beneath, so that this up
per part apparently falls over the plain
edge beneath. that is finished with 3
narrow row of white braid. A plain
basque has three collarettes, each per-
fectly straight and plain. pointed in
front, and edged with the white. hav-
ing the stitching and soutache inside,
as on the Skirt.
Another tailor Ea21iA has nothing !.