The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1893-02-11
Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1881

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Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1881
LONDON, January so, 1893.
L wonder how many Americans ever
visited the famous Skelligs of the south
west coast of Ireland? They are the
most southwesterly extensions of Ire.
land, are three in number, and lie in g
direct line southwest of Port Magee. The
first, and the least, is called the Lemon
Rock. 1t is a round, solid mass rising
only few feet above the water. The
second, and next larger, is called Little
or Lesser Skellig, and is a craggy group
ing of rocky pinnacles standing grim and
black against the sky as though some
city of churches, with wondrous steeples
had been submerged, rearing above the
waves their mighty Gothic spires, among
which million of sea-birds had found
their desolate homes.
The third, the Great Skellig, is pre-.
clsely nine miles at sea from Port Magee
1t IS an enormous and precipitous mass
OF rock rising perpendicularly at nearly
all angles to the hight of several hundred
1eet, and from thence pushing skyward
stupendous, irregular groups, terminal
ing IN two lofty pinnacles, the highest oil
which reaches an altitude of 10 feet. 1t is
said that the ocean soundiugs around il
are far deeper than those in any part OF
the English channel, and at no other
point upon the whole Atlantic are wit
messed such awful battles between wave
and stone. The base of the only light
house now in use upon Great Skellig
stands upon leveled rock one hundred
and forty feet above the sea, and the root
OIL this lofty structure was few years ago
crushed in and partly carried away by
Inc assaults OF the waves, which must
have been lifted upward of one hundred
and eighty feet above the sea level to have
been dashed upon it.
A determination to land upon and scale
Great Skellig Rock is more easily formed
than is the project performed, for certain
destruction attends attempted landing,
save when old ocean may be caught nap
ping and for few hours quite at rest
Every day, for nearly week, with a
Kerry fisherman friend, l arose before
day and tramped to the cliffs below Port
Magee for forecast of wind, weather and
sea. AT last propitious day came.
With my friend and three of his hardy
companions we set forth in strong open
boat with the outgoing tide from the tiny
pier of the port, and, without stroke OF
southern entrance of the harbor of Va
lentia.
The sea was perfectly calm as we left
the channel, save where imperceptible
distant swells, massing upon the half
hidden ledge that protects the harbor en-
trance, flung glittering spume and spray
landward behind us. over to the west
Bray Head rose precipitously 1000 feet
out of the water. Beyond this innumer-
able fishers sails blended like huge on
coming surge at the edge of the horizon
To the LETT grim headlands stretched
away in dark projections to far Bolus
Head, and the long, regular stroke of the
oarsmen soon sped US past Putin Island
In an hour and half we were alongside
Lemon Island, lying like some sleeping,
Lalt-hidden monster TO our right, and in
two hours time we had come abreast of
Little Skellig.
Here we were favored with character
istic sight. This island is the only one off
the Irish coast where the putin haunts
and breeds in countless numbers. TAX
ing advantage of the placid sea perhaps
three-score coastwise folk were here seek
ing these fowls within the assures and
clefts of the crags. Many aerial battles
between men, Slung with ropes from
dangerous nights, and the birds they
were mercilessly seeking, were seen in
progress as we passed. The eggs and
flesh of the putin are eaten, their feath-
ers are dried and sold, and a trifiinp
traffic is carried on in picked, or cured
puffins, which are exchanged for potatoes
and meal with the country folk of the
1veragh wilds,
AT last the Great Skellig was reached,
and we made landing without difficulty
at the only spot upon which foot can be
set from the sea. 1 begged the boatmen
to climb the crags with me. but thew
shook THAR hpu6c -alx "A
The reason for this. as related by nv
fisher friend, who consented to accom-
pany me, was on account of certain Dor
tentious superstitions the peasantry and
fishermen tenaciously hold regarding the
spot. The only human beings now living
upon Great Skellig are those having
charge of the lighthouse.
But more than thousand years ago
hundreds, if not thousands, passed their
lives in religious devotions upon this wild
sea mountain, for this place was then the
st. MichaePs Mount of Ireland. Its his
tory was luminous even in the earliest
days of Christianity in Erin. A majestic
monastery once stood in the little valley
between the two lofty peaks of the island.
From the single landing place, $40 stone
steps, many portions OF which remain.
led to the monastery, the great cashel,
the oratories, the stone cells, the ancient
burial place, and many unrecorded struct-
ureSWhlch the lncalculablet toll andZealOuS
conservation of a remote age grouped
within this sacred spot. Easily traced re-
mains of nearly all these structures still
exist, and fragments of gigantic crosses
here and there push through the strange
debris, whose contemplation cannot but
send thrill through the least impressive
heart.
Far, far above this tens of thousands of
pilgrims in the intervening centuries have
climbed. Near the top of the highest
pinnacle one must squeeze through a
narrow orifice, called the Needles Eye. in
order to follow their olden, painful way.
Just beyond this is a narrow ridge or sad
die of solid rock. One must get astride
this and work along with legs and hands
until an ascending shelving rock is
reached. The danger here is terrible.
One false movement and you are plunged
headlong into the sea from either side.
From this TO the highest point any fairly
sure-footed man may pass securely to the
slender yard-wide summit, along which
are found rudely sculptured crosses or
stations.
l have been in some eerie spots in my
travel, but never before have I stood