Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1893-10-05
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
New Millinery Materials, Silks and
Outdoor Garments.


Rosalind May Tells What the Current
Styles In Hat Trimmings Are--The Use
Satin is Put to--Ostrich Tips and nuill
Feathers Are ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Long Jackets for Outdoors.
Special Correspondence OF Gazetteand journal
NEW York, Sept. 26.-In millinery,
extravagancies of former seasons are
set at naught by this years productions.
Brims are still more fancifully bent, or
when remaining in natural contour often
become the vantage ground for extra
ordinary displays of trimming. In such
category must be classed brown felt
having brim several inches wide,
gray ostrich tips which spread almost
In circle as they alternate with four
immense pink ribbon loops and ends.
Another example is completed by IL
tiny fur heads, of which nine are set in
a row and three give support on the
left side in front,to loops and an aigrette.
SATIN
Is used to considerable extent in
millinery and stylish hat is made
wholly of black satin with soft crown
and shirred brim ended by rutfle. A
unique hat has the brim in brown felt,
the crown in successive rows of narrow
gilt braid and from this extends a
moderately full ruffle of brown satin
brocade showing small dots. The satin
is doubled to obyiate raw edge. Finish
is given by three pale blue ostrich
| feathers placed in front, Pink is used
more freely than hitherto and flowers in
satin or oftener velvet, are seen much
more frequently than is usual in fall
| and winter. Feathers of course how
ever lead and here the two most promi-
nent varieties, are ostrich tips and quill
| feathers, Of which the domestic turkey
| yields conspicuous quota. On a
| stylish felt hat, four are crossed in front
as support to loops and aigrettes. In
| general it may be remarked that while
the iauntiness of high trimmings is still
feature. yet there is m evident
| tendency towards breadth. Loops while
long, are often open and disposed with
| spreading rather than upright effect and
the same arrangement may hold good as
to other garnitures. In
NEW MATERIALS
Loie Fuller shadings are quite notice
able-that is to say, successive stripes
which melt into each other and espec-
tally novel suits seen at Lord & Taylor's,
are brought out with trimmings OF braid
ready gathered on skirts and correspond
ing allowance for sleeves and coIsage,
Usually these skirts come IN circle
shape and tine rufiled braid diminishes
by one each row, cluster of three at
the bottom, affording three upper rows
and cluster of six on the lower edge,
lessening through six rows to single
one at the top. The latter style extends
nearly to the waist, as the clusters are
placed some distance apart. The braid
is about an inch wide and has narrow
tinsel border on the lower edge.
SILKS
are shown in peculiar designs of close
set dots and dashes in colors that almos
reach the iridsecent and of course be,
come very rich in appearance. These
are shown in such numbers as to inter
fere with the production of brocade'
proper, yet the latter are seen in bott
large and small patterns, in those that il
loose designs traverse the surface sparselJ
and such as in compact sprays sometime!
set tar apart or again at short distances
! give great opportunity for selection
Extremely rich silks are in larged dots Sc
near together on heavy, changeablI
groundworks and show such vivid al
, formations as green an red, magenta ant
deep brown or bright pink and darl
, heliotrope. Satin is largely brough
forward in heavier qualities than of lat
and MORE or watered silk recalls tn,
stateliness of long ago. In
, OUT DOOR GARMENTS,
, long jackets are very prominent ant
I tight fitting to the waist, flare out beIoy
in quite striking manner, some havlnI
: the fullness confined to the back, Will
!, others show the same placed NOR
evenly. The majority of course are il
cloth, but elegant examples in satin an
perhaps with velvet in combination
are opponents of great elaboration
: One in dark green velvet, is heavil
: trimmed in the back with Jet, Will
q above are set successive narrow rutfle
Q of velvet lined with changeable red an
q green silk. Among these at interval
t. are rutfles of black satin and simila
e combination appears on the sleeves this
u are ruffied to the elbow. The long cuff
!, are trimmed with jet. Such extrem
example gives the key note and rendel
N comparatively inconspicuous competir
is styles in black satin and velvet.
Is CAPEs
:. of all lengths from just below the wal
Il to three-quarters long, are often lik
le wise most fanciful cloth, satin or velv
lie are trimmed in an extraordinary varie
ne of ways, by braid, passementerie, fur
"a lace, while brocades or combinations
u u material may complete the picture. ri
~ ~ rage for black and white is appeased /
~ both jackets and capes in black velv
or satin that are finished by ermine al
white lace is noticeable as an importa
=. factor in union of the two extreme
For rough usage, ulsters in mixed clio
r. come with fitted backs and fronts al
ar inevitable capes. These may reach /
4. low the waist with three short cap
above or the latter only, may give COZ
er pletion. RosALIND MAY.
~ REp. III. u. WEBSTER GUILTY.