The Yakima herald. [volume] (North Yakima, W.T. [Wash.]) 1889-1914, 1893-03-30

Till "
DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING SHAPE AMI INV
WAISTS
dotted line shows where to cut out to shorten
waists-
neeoiui, now that the pointed velvet belts
are IN style, and they are too pretty to be
discarded soon. The fullness Is all gath
ereu az the bottom outside OF the darts, and
AZ the top there Is no neck size cut, and the
length Is then carried to the top Of the
shoulder and gathered. The front lining
should be sliced off at the neck and hemmed,
and all the rest treated as usual.
The gathers should be sewn in under a
peit, and this latter should have the lower
edges turned In and the skirt gathered
and sewn to that.
Where the skirt is to be quite full, which
ID now the style for thin. dresses, a lining
OF SIX or sateen, OF the prevailing color, Is
made and finished OF and worn under.
The breadths to the outer dress are cut
straight, and the skirt should be quite five
yards around, little longer In the back
and simply hemmed. A pretty finish is to
have ruffie OF the same thin goods, with
Sill narrower and fuller one under that,
set on the under skirt Ribbons can be
added Ii desired.
The neck can be finished in any manner,
but just now berthes Of lace or chiffon or
OF the dress material are used, and there Is
practically no limit to the variety Of trim
ming one can use for light dresses. Tulle
and Grape, null and India muslin are all
made about alike. Jabots OF lace are
pretty. and are made by gathering lace
very full. giving It shake and then fas
tening It as It naturally falls. Never try to
make it fall as you like, but fasten It
where II TAILS isself, or you will lose the
erect.
Festoons and light effects are to be
sought for In thin materials.
Inc most suitable sleeve for plump
arm 10 simple fall OF lace or the dress ma
teriaL For thin one long bouffant ef-
rect, open. II liked, at intervals on the upper
part OF the arm. fastened with tiny knots
OF ribbon, or sleeve can be q series Of
pnns held IN place by bracelet bands Of
ribbon.
Wash gowns should always be made with
view to their looking as well after wash
Ing as before, and to that end the good
dressmaker should aim. Cotton goods,
whether zephyrs or sateens, should be plain
and neat, graceful in model and perfect in
Mt. All cottons, except sateens, are pretty
with tucks or bias bands. Sateens require
more elaborate trimming, such rs cuffs,
collars, etc., OF velutina or lace.
Silks require different treatment from
any other material. and IL It Is possible to
avoid It hot iron should never be put on
silk. Black silks, the heavier and richer
Kinds, like armure, peau de sole, faille and
grosgrain, should be made as plainly as
possible. their richness showing better
when little trimmed. Black silks, being
alike on both sides, cut to good advantage,
but an 1t Is apt to fray the seams should be
rather deep. The waists can be cut after
the model waist and any trimming desired
added. Nothing Is more suitable or ele-
CANT than beaded passernenterie unless II
Is little real black thread lace; therefore
avoid cutting up the silk into rutfies and
broken bits. Let the skirt be plain, but
ample. Bipd IL with velvet, and, II desired,
add narrow puff or rose plating around
the bottom, Pay more attention to the fit
and STYLE than trimming. The richest
GOWNS n y. those r,ade Lain h,, r>..tsa.
cuh sL,.iS - p.a'r, ou. perieee,
oik waists should never De quite as tight
ehey eouiu DC, ior the ricner the SIX the
worse Is the habit II has OF stretching at
the seams All the light summer silks can
be made without these precautions. hut
even thew viii No, s,.nd .tra.~h;. '1'
To iinisb = banss"ms .; ;T1. araas C-on.,,
',n nanoso"e shk uress properly
sw9uHes .no u.mos. attention 70 details
Ine waist seams should be bound with
lustring, the ease belt be nice. the loops
for hanging up be of ribbon and every
stitch set with precision. The fnisb of az
best dresses sent from abroad Is about ss