Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1893-09-27
WHAT MEN WILL WEAR.
Characteristics of Clothing for the Male Sex
This Autumn and Winter.

could not get an American to believe 1t.
That is why Max O'Rell, Austin Dobson
and the rest of them laugh at us.
"Men," said Beau Brumme.l, "should
dress as they Enthusiastically.
Logically, we should begin with hats.
For this autumn and winter the black
derby will remain good form, except
when the dress suit calls for the ineVi-
table chimney pot. But black derby
should have a narrow curved brim for
stout face. while the man with a narrow,
hollow-cheeked physiognomy may wear
ETY.. These two kinds of derbies are
alone permissible now to the man who
aims at good form. The very low
crowned affairs and the steel gray color
may not be correctly worn. In other
hues the dark brown is allowable
in the morning or even after luncheon.
4 word about other shapes. There is
a popular style of soft SLOUGH hat known
to the trade as creased III the crown"
1t is not bad form in the daytime, bet
the proper color is dark gray and the
ribbon or band ought to be black and
pretty wide. Very few men look well
in the hat unless they are tall and slen-
der. If you have a weakness for such
hats and are not blessed with inches but
! possess a fair amount OF WelghtWear the
! black slOuch-but not at night.
! The silk hat appears unchanged, only
| the inside band should be of very dark
red leather, and your initials ought not
to adorn the interior. Above all, never
| fear to pay all you can afford for a good
| hat. Wear cheap clothes if you must,
but cheap hatnever.
4 PROPOS DIES Bottles.
not
! head and your feet are we'll clothed you
will always look like gentleman, more
| or less.
Black again is the safe color. Russell
shoes and black hat will not do. The
craze for russell seems to survive the
summer and if YOU have it badly stick
to the dark gray SLOUGH hat. Black
shoes for day wear should not be point
ed, although tendency to slope toward
the toe is not bad form. The soles
ought to be thin and heels very low and
wide. Tell the shoemaker that you do
not wish the soles ''beveled." Do not
! stuff the iaces of your boots into the tops.
They should hang down IN bow"
knot so as to be visible below the trou-
sers. Never have your boots BACKED
in the morning. Never have q glisten-
! ing polish put upon them. The deplor
! able custom Of caking shoe leather with
| black composition and reducing the
same to a vanished surface has made
us nation of smooty breech legs. A
| gentleman's shoes are not ''Shined."
They are BACKED. Buttons seem to be
| classed as effeminate The secret of
good appearance in foot wear is that the
toes should be free. a springy step
means an elegant walk
LINEN MY LORD
A gentleman should wear clean linen
and plenty thereof, to be sure, but he
should not unduly display it. Acres of
shirt bosom and yards of collar and
Waistband are permissible only in lack
eys. Even the dress suit is no excuse
! for this offense We are all familiar
! with the ''jokes' based upon the sim
| ilarity between guests and walters at
certain social functions.
| White is the safest color for linen, but
it seems that colored shirts are to be the
| vogue for morning wear this autumn.
A very thin blue or black line running
perpendicularlv is correct for the shirt.
and white turn down collar is sane
toned herewith. The genuine neglige
! has not the detachable collar and wrist
| bands, however. (By the way, never
say ''cuff if you can avoid the word.
A gentleman should never allow pink to
appear in his clothes, always excepting
| the boutoniere. Never wear stand
up" collar with anything but white
| linen shirt. Never wear neglige at
night Have only natural tints in your
shirts it you must run to color. The
only allowable stud is very small gold
bead. To wear jewels with neglige
shirt is bad form.
Speaking of linen prompts the re-
! mark that many young men have
weakness for prettiness in shirts; to be
h.
skirts, as only women may wear pretty
things.
BEAUTY AND STRENGTH.
Now we come to underwear. and it
must be severely simple. No sleeves
with delicately stitched edgings No
pretty collarets. Silk, if you must, sir,
but no lace.
Black socks are the best form. but
very blue or stripped yellow will be
much worn.
PHILOSOPHY OF RIBBONS.
NeckWear seems the problem of pro-
blems to American men. Henry La
bouchere once said that he never met
an Englishmen who knew why he wore
a necktie and it is highly improbable
that in this country we know any bet
ter. Oscar Wilde's assertion that the
fellow who puts around his neck the
''lnade-up tie" deserves halter or a
snubbing seems to have had some prac-
tical influence at last.
Black and white will be the seasons
colors in neckwear, Blue seems occa-
sionally allowed, but red and pink are
quite out of the question. Do not wear
the Ascot after luncheon. The only
excuse that tie ever had Tor existence
is the morning fog of London. The
four-in-hand will probably be very
prevalent, although there is some OPP
position to the article. Its chief merit
is adaptability to every variety of male
attire and the undeniable air of distinc-
ton it lends to a mans linen. The
best results are attained by wearing
turn-down collar with it, and to very
stout faces the tie is a godsend. The
bow knot seems preferable with the
"stand-up" collar. Polka dots are en-