The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-01-01
WITH MARKED CONFEDERATION
Gotham's Foreign Boninace Treats People
OF His Own Nationality. 81

OF His Own Nationality.
No matter how faithful the American may b
In his attendance at a French or Italian res
taurant. he can never hope to win that degree
Of the propristor's confidence which Is almost
Immediately vouchsafed to a patron OF his own
nationality. The latter may be much less
generous than the American. but. neverths..
less. he Is treated with more consideration. II
the meal be table d'h6te. his soup Is always
sure to be hot. his portions unusually large
and choice. Very likely. too. he will receive
some delicacy which is not on the bill OF fare
Instead OF the business-like mile and bow
with which mine host receives the American.
his compatriot is greeted with a hearty hand
shake. Is placed ut the ~cleanest and most
comfortable table. and not unusually has
tho companionship Of tho proprietor dur
ing the greater part OF the meal.
This attention insures tho guest the best Of ser
vice OF which tho waiter is capable: and that.
too. although tho walter is not tipped. for
rarely does the proprietor's oountrymnn con.
slider 1t necessary to foe the waiter. The
American who looks on obviously while the
tid-bits arc served to the other knows that his
dinner will BIO q mocke ~ unless he tips the
waiter generously.
II the meal is served a la carte the proprie-'
tors countryman will have his order quicker
than the American. although the latter arrived
earlier. and it will surely be Just what no Dc.
manded. which is more than tho American
can say. Where the head OF tho establishment
happens to DO a pretty woman tho situation is.
Of course. much more exasperating for the
American. To SEQ the other fellow not only
getting better food and service. but also mo-
nopolizina all the smiles. is pushing race dis.
elimination beyond reason. 90
For the past six months n scene has been
daily enacted In q French restaurant on
Washington square which emphasizes the
above observations. This restaurant owes ita
success entirely to Americans. Before the
artists and Bohemians who roveli In the French
quarter took hold OF the place madame and
her Idle husband found it hard to scrape
along. Only n few Of their compatriots patron
lied their little shop on Wooster street. and
prices. a few Americans. s~trolling about in
search Of novelty; happened into the place.
The spectacle OF the impecunious but mag.
vito did ali the cooking. waited on the tables.
t fDse essh th pfe xlss' t Ee1ae IF fSs se eeoEin ana a.a ssG e
their taste. also. and they became h. oituess
TOO. and suddenly mine host and hostess found
t sa tpat tHs, Y hag P 20 IaaF a Business piaSs m ins,e sSsS
marked that the hostess was aole to give up
all the pSrso1al labor and hire q coSk and
ohN WV sASh Watsr -
The American patrons remained ~steadfast,
even though a number OF tho original nttrac-
lions wero gone and some OF the prices ad-
vanced. [
We're madame and monsieur grateful? Not
2 bit Of it. They greeted those who had made
their fortune with stereotyped smiles and
phrases. and on one occasion. when one OF
their original patrons demonstrated ut receive
ing u quart Of wine when he ordered only Q
pint, they ,n,imnted that he had drunk come
of the wine and replaced It with water. But,
when six months ago. q curly-headed French-
man. with ,lnshaven face and = slouch hat.
began to visit the restaurant. they were ro-
ceived with enthusiasm. These people always
dined very cheaply., and never drank aught
but win ordinaire. Yet they have had atten-
ton lavished upon them. while tho habituss
who paid extravaEant prices for Burgundy and
haut sautcrne wero barely ~notico'l. Monsieur.
who never heeded his old patrons. sits down
to them SO loudly and yolubly That all other
conversation is carried on with difficulty.
Madame. too. participates in the conversation.
and the Americans have to wait for the coffee
which she still makes personally and for their
change. Yet the Americans continue to pa
tronize the place. understanding worry well that
they will receive 10 better treatment at others
presided over by foreigners.