Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-01-05


haunted because Of inoxprcssihle cruel.
ties and foul murders IN crypts aud castle
here. Through those lofty pillars, bend
ing arches, hollow galleries, aud by these
dismantlcd affairs one can stride from the
Nineteenth to the Fifth century. In tho
saddoniug echoes OF the sen calls he eau
hear the meanings OF Imprisoned Eleanor,
the curses of Stanley, the triumphant
"AlleuiahW Of Gcrmanus that put 10
rout the Saxons In tho bloody Flintshirn
fields. Haunted, more than all else to
Alanxlapd mind, because Il IL the abiding
place for all time Of that most terrible Of
Manx pOwors Of darkness, the black aud
dreadful "Moody Dhoo.n
From Peel to Port Erin f. matohlcysly
wild and romuntic reach Of coast. There
Is scarcely a break In the lofty prccipitous
wall And what q grand spot II this Port
Erin and cnyirOnsl The Manx mountains
rise solemn and dark behind The bay IL
nn almost landlooked cove. Tremendous
Brdda Head, rising 800 fcot sheer from
the sen, shuts out the bowling northern
tempests. Another hcadlund sweeps around
and up from tho south. Once the ancient
port was rich from commerce with ireland.
Now Il Is dark antique. sleeping within
n bed Of myrtle. Tho fashionablcs have
found IL out. aud soon another gay and
brilliant Palermo will hide its ancient
walls
Now you nre sped around the Calf Of
Man. Boldcr. grandcr, more grcwsome
still are It's vast sea walls and fearful
chasms. Rosstlcss tides gnaw at It's base.
Tho angry spume IL flung to It's topmost
crngs. It Is drsola,c Of human life.
Millions OF sea fowl wheel and shrek above
". But one other spot have seen 80 typ-
zeal Of furious dosolation. Where the
Arran Island orags receive the ceaselosg
poundngs OF the Atlantic, and tho thun.
ders Of Che everlasting battle are 50 great
that oyon the sea CULTS shrek IA soundless,
Ia another such a needless place.
Coasting along the eastern shores again,
first Spanish Head M passed. and then Port
st. Mary. Between these Is n typical Manx
hamlet called Crcgnelsh. IL "a little
cluster Of centuries old stone cottages
Huge walls connect each. The old habits
and dress Of the ancient Manx are still pre-.
served by 81 twoscorc inhabitants. I'm.
I'll recently the Manx language was solely
spoken here The folk are fishermen, Col
fearing, simple, good. AL tho oldcn fair,
les still live with them and will remain
until the modern vices come.
Here At Port IT. Mary during the fishing
scnson ~ the rendezvous Of the Mnnx her
ring feet. II you are here ut that time IL
will remind you ~ tho animated scenes Ia
August at Wick. In Scotland. or Lerwick,
IN Shetland. The anchorage rs crowded
with heavily laden fishing smacks, whose
brown sails shine like FURNISHED copper In
tho sun, while others are constantly round.
ing the point Into the bay. Small boats nrt
filled with tho shining silvory ish passing
10 and fro between the smacks aud the
shore. Buyer carts drive into the water
up To their axl,s, the reader TO receive the
FISH, Not hundreds but thousands OF men
women and Children. all In a line frenzy Of
cumulative industry, scurrying In all dlrcc-
tons and clad Ia strange attire al up tho
picturesque and busy scene. These folk
arc nearly all Wesleyan Mcthoiists. They
are as like the Cornish fisher folk of 1t
Ives ~ the behring's OF both, and none Of
their boats ever put TO sea ON Saturday or
Sunday, nor do they NJ any time venture
upon their sea harvestings without goodIy
prayers and psalms.
\ little farther to tho north, dark and
gray, lies Castlotown, now, VA OF old, among
ito darker Limestone rocks. with t. ancient
castle, still more sombcr. towering grew
somely nbovc. This IA the once famous
Rushen Castle, with acanty remains Of
Rushcn Abbey near, aud scene OF the muir
der Of wicked King Reginald by lvar, the
good knight. The Danes founded the cas-
tie, aud IL resembles Elslnorc. Of Hamlet
fame. Its uses now Rs prison do not de.
tract from it, almost foruciOus grandeur.
Back at Douglas again from such a con.
temptation ~ this Of the dear little Isle
~ Man" and warrant you are a score II
years aud n hundred books In advantage
over him who enters MnnSlnnd Mt IN. sea
gates OF Its splendid town, and views It's
foriu and folk through the false perspoc.
tive Of lno hotels, crowds OF summer or
winter wealthy oilers, and tho misleading
gay actiyitlcs comparing with those Of our
own Bar llnrbor or Newport. or an English
Bourncmouth or brighton.
Here Of course Is some true Mnnx color
IN the strange old closes aud wynds of tho
ancient part Of the city, but D0uglns is cs.
sentially fashionable watering place the
whole year round. You must leave Doug.
lRs behind to completely know Mainland.
This Is no venturosumc task. You can
walk TO the rcmotcst portion Of the island
In one day. There mover were finer roAds,
There never were loveller Views. There
never were quainicr, more comforting old
Inns, and there never were more simple,
genial, hospltablo people than IN Man. In
most countries have visited the peasantry
nro vacuous and llstless, or suspicious and
rescntful OF him who COMES to spy into
their ways and'polo among their shrines.
The ManX folk TAKE II as an honor. The
Manxmgn Is proud Of his ancestry, Ills
history, his independence, his changeless
| customs and laws. Indeed | often think
that much Of his goodness to tho stranger
comes from pity that the stranger was no,
born IN his fair, liberty loving island.
And after all the real pleasure OF know
ing any strange land Is In getting close to
the heart Of It's common folk. Tint IL cnsy
here, You will be thrilled by Mainland
scenes Of mountain md const. IL II u won.
dcrful little land for foamlng torrents,
flashing streams, enhancing valleys aud
shadowy glens. There is no; another so
tiny a bic OF earth where you may come
upon so many curious and impressive mon
umcnts OF II heroic past. Fisher folk and
| liighlanders, each with their distinct, cen.
turtles old, changoless ways, arc close to-
| gether The murmurs OF the sea can al.
most be heard from highest mountain
| peak. Contrast Is ever where mighty and
| close. Bus II IS because Manx folk them
selves arc more winsomo and grand than
| oil fine sights or scenes TINT loving, con.
tented sense OF oxultatlcn glHddens every
step Of yonr progress through all these
| pleasant Island ways.
| InnAp T. NVAupuAN