Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1893-05-09
HONEMAKERS COLUMN.



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SPRING FASHIONS ~ csGsses AND
GARMENTS.
The prediction made last fall that the
long coats were 70 have short-lived
reIsn has proved true. They came In 70
keen the long skirts In countenance, ana
the minute the skirts OF street dresses
were shortened up again, ditto went the
coats. The new jackets arc compan-
lively short, with rather full basques
(the portion below the waist llne) and
large slceves. Light tints In cloth pre-
dominate. The Innings are all OF hand
some shot or broche silks, and the most
popular decoration II embroidery done
on The cloth; q favorite deslgn II leaf
pattern, the edges being cut out 70 iorm
actual cloth leaves. On many OF me
coats the trimming L. confined 70 the
collar, which 10 made deep and fui 70
form . small cape.
In some of the new cloth coats, thus
having the way for fashionable 10
vamping Of last seasons garments.
A very elegant wrap to 20 with .
handsome dress 10 made entirely OF Jetted
lace insertion and mllllner's folds OF
black satin In the form Of full cape.
the rich-toned miroir velvet Ia made
into stylish apologies for wraps, lined
with ombre silk and bordered with 0s-
trich feathers. The model that ID most
fetching has high collar from which
depends a sort OF yoke, very narrow
over the shoulders and lengthening to
reach the waist back and front, cut In
such way that IL hangs In Jabot-like
folds.
Applique trimming IL 10 favor for
decorating the capes that In these days
of enormous sleeves are indispensable 10
every wardrobe, and fancy runs riot In
embe llIshlng the richest outer garments,
let and iridescent being employed with
chenille and silk embroidery 10 Intricate
designs that In some Instances nearly
cover the mantle or whatever the gar
ment Ia.
But there are plain wraps that are In
excellent taste, among them the perfect
liz plain, full capes OF cloth that have
only their colOred or black lining In the
way of trimming.
The skirts OF all the newest dresses
clear the ground, whether they are Of
silk or satin, cloth or cotton. In out
line, the modern belle is very boufiant as
to the body Of her gown, very slender
as to waist, while her skirts describe,
from almost any point Of view, q perfect
pyramid, with the apex ut the waist
line. This ut present most fashionable
read-eagle style Of skirt Is secured by
goring the skirt breadths sharply, and
by lining them all to "a greater or less
depth with horse hair, for which, up to
this season, the dealers have for years
had no call at all.
All bodies OF dresses end at the waist
line In effect, aud the swathlng-band
style of girdle or belt still obtains. On
some Of the m0dlsh frOcks, however,
the belt Is entirely done away with, the
skirt, which IL finished of with piping
cord generally Of the trimming material,
being put on when dressing outside OF
the waist and merely hooked invislbly
together, One more hook and eye serving
TO keep the skirt from twisting out OF
place. The skirt that has nine cores is
conspicuous In q good many OF the new
est street gowns, and is very "smart" In
effect. An odd finish IL given by lap
ping the seams and adding row OF ma
chine stitching close to the edge, or else
by piping each seam.
skirts that to all intents and appear
ances are made In three tiers are de-
veloped In both ginghams and woods.
There Is gored foundation upon which
are set two deep, scant ruflles that hang
about as full as the fashionable skirt,
and are each third Of the skirt length
In depth; the top or third hounce IL at
tached at the waist line, and each Of the
three Is held only along the top OF the
bias edge. These rufiies overlap trifie,
and are Oftenest finished with narrow,
bias fold of some other fabric.
The only departure from the short,
round waist that have seen Is upon one
of the "swell" boating frocks, just
shown BY one OF the big Importers.
This has a coat bodice, tight fitting ut
the back, with the fronts made half
loose over piece that Stimulates q
shorter wslstcoat trimmed. across the
bust and at the waist line by very Wide,
Hercules braid that Il edged with white,
as II plped with It. The dress, be 1t said,
Ii Of rough. finished, blue serge. The
gOred skirt, that sits out just as do all
the dresses, Il trimmed with couple OF
rows of the braid set far apart, and has
square pockets set on 1.-TWO Of them just
as upon an apron. There Is b deep
sailor collar, very wide Mt the back,
n IA ii tVh