The record-union., 1893-09-16
Special Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright 1881

LOCK ERBIE, Scotland, Sept. /, 1893.
Tramping over the hills which separate
the Land of Burns in Ayrshire from the
Land of Burns in Dumfriesshire, on
vague and indolent sort of pilgrimage to
the birthplace of Carlyle in Annadale,
came upon a little band Of Scottish gyp-
sizes among whom were some old and
priced acquaintances. 1 found them in
the nest-lke hollow of winsome brae
beside the winding Amman River. They
were between Jardine Hall and the an
cient clachan, Applegarth, where Ed
ward l., on his way to the siege of Caer-
laverock, made oblations at the affairs of
st. Nicholas and Thomas Beckett, in the
once noted but now extinct Applegarth
Church. and could just see, as l was
tramping southwark along the great turn
pike road from Carlisle to Glasgow, the
hoods of their tents and their "Whum-
meled' or upturned carts in ragged out
line against the blue sheen OF the gentle
river below.
Ny impulse was to press on to Loch-
maben or Lockerbie for the night, but
there is, l fear, that taint of gypsy blood
within me that ever draws me irresisti-
bly, to this outcast, vagabond race. res
olutely turned my lace to the south.
After a little l halted. A tiny coppiced
hillock had hid the brown tents. Where L
stopped the road wound with the river
bank | looked back along the brae. l
/ saw now the campfres, the pots hang
ing from the kettle-sticks, the BARNS
romping among the donkeys and dogs,
some men stretched laZily upon the
sward, and swarthy women grooming
over their daily gossip together. This
banished my resolution. All my own
2f
tent and the road swept in upon my heart
like a tide of homecoming cheer. In a
moment more was being hugged, actu-
ally hugged by a score OF gypsies, men
and women. receiving royal greetings of
welcome, and soothing, as best could,
shrill reproaches for having had the
thought to pass them by. And l set this
down in simple recital, for it led to my
being conducted by a Scottish gypsy
Prince to the ancient home of Scottish
patriot King whose ancestral habitation
was here in the very heart of beauteous
Annandale.
Between Eskdale on the east and Niths-
dale on the west lies this sweet and pas
Loral Annandale. Though not among
the most noted, yet it is still one of the
most lovely valleys Of the Scottish bor-
der. To the leisurely and sentimental
pilgrim tarrylng among its pleasing
scenes, it appeals with goodly tascina-
ton. 1t Is but tiny vale thirty miles
long, the River Amman, from which it
takes Its name, having its source in the
Hartfeu Mountains, and winding With
gentle flow through and between charac-
teristic Scottish villages, its banks dotted
with humble croftS, larger tarmsteadS,
and all the lang syne features Of Scottish
country homes. Though the valley is
accorded no special fame among the Scot
tish people themselves, and is scarcely
it,1 4,,.ufc
that in few particulars 1t possesses eX-
traordinary interest.
Within the distance of one days tramp
across five parishes, through which winds
the gentle Amman, can be seen one of the
most ancient, and certainly one of the
most historic, castle ruins OF Scotland, the
first home in Scotland of Robert the
Bruce, at Loehmaben; the birthplace at
Amman of the greatest and most unfortu-
nate of all Scottish preachers, Edward
Irving; the wonderful phenomena of the
tides OF the Solway Firth, which are, per-
haps, better observed from the great
Amman Viaduct, connecting England with
Scotland, than at any other spot along the
Solway shores; and the birthplace and
burial place of the one philosopher, critic
and essayist who has undoubtedly left a
deeper impression upon intellectual
minds in Great Britain and America
than any other individual who ever
adorned and perplexed this country
grabbed, crafty, mighty and glorious old
Thomas Carlyle.
1t was in the middle of the afternoon
when 1 found my gypsy friends. Many
of the band were absent. Those who re-
manned were chiefly old men left to mind
the camp and pother at all manner OF
tinkering upon broken donkey carts,
donkey gear that required mending, and
pans, pots and Kettles which were being
renewed in true tinsmith style for peas
ant housewives and round about; many
young chuvies gypsy children at all
sorts of children's rustic games, fairly
dressed and roysteringly happy, and the
gaunt old spae-wives, too far advanced in
years tor the Iabors and articles OF the
road, who still always serve TO hold the
reins OF good government in any gypsy
camp well in hand, while bravely pre-
pairing the evening meals against the
younger wanderers return.
During the interval | had leisure for ex-
animation of the picturesque camp and
time for learning much OF the ways and
annual journeyings of this single commu-
nifty of Scottish gypsies. There were
twelve tents and half dozen "whum-
meled" carts. The Whummeling of a
Scottish or northern English gypsy cart
means the turning of the same upside
down. This, with the addition of blanket
or some fir branches. makes a capital
IOOl uIOCI h1l4CAI " pass ulR
Altogether there was accommodation for
from two to three score gypsies. The
followed brae chosen for the camp al
ways had its patch of sunlight, which
gypsies dearly love. Larch, tir and a
few fine ash trees were at either side, and
the purling river, convenient for camp
side needs for men and beasts, from
which q luscious fish could occasionally
be legally taken, as their camping place
was duly rented from tie laird of the ma
nor, was almost st their feet.
Here were representatives of all the
Scottish gypsy families Of uote- the Dun
bars, Faas or Falls, Baileys, Boswells and
Blythes, most of them descendants from
CIydesdale and Yetholm gypsies, whose
progenitors figured, if not in the history,
in the ballad and romantic literature of
Scotland. They were ali originally pot
ters, packers and thinkers. Their olden
capital city was the now deserted village
of Yetholm. by Bowmont-side, where the
lFaviot Hills shut out from Scotland s
view the wild Northumberland moors
and the hated field of Flodden. In olden
times they made much of the rude delft
ware used by the Scottish peasantry.
They still journey into Statfordshire,
England. over the old Liverpool, Carlisle
and Glasgow coach road, dealing in the
cheaper and faulty, porcelalns, and occa-
s;onally trading with the gentry in Min
+ons,, and "W edgewoods." Now they
tora their winter homes in Dumfries,
1nnan Iockerbie and Glasgow, and be-
fo-a the snowdrops fade from the road
~ an0Gdosand braes are back here in their old
Iannts The men trade and dicker at the
harsa and cattle fairs, some pursuing
4bair olden calling at tinkering and osier
S.erl sneri while the women sell willow ware
ND trinkets and dukker tell fortunes)
among the guidwives and lasses of the
Scottish peasantry, :.