davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

rieties of this fabric there are. Some are az
heavy and thick as cheviot, and some al
most as thin as cheesecloth, and every
color under the sun is produced. Some of
them in some inexplicable way have a sort
of MORE effect, others are rainbow shaded,
and others again are changeable. The PEE
culiarity of all the crepOns is that they
drape in classical folds, are flexible and
can be pulled and drawn to fit figures with
out having any seams to show.
One mistake often made with crepon Is
that the dressmaker will put stiff lining
in it, This should not be. The softest
lining is the best. Thin silk makes the
most artistic lining, but where that cannot
be afforded very thin paper cambria will
do. This is little stiff at first, but soon
becomes soft and pliable Around the bot
tom soft flounce overlapped with band
of lace insertion makes the prettiest trim
ming, though each lady can decide for her
self what style of foot garniture she pre-
fers
Accordion plated muslins, silk muslins,
chiffons and other light stuffs are used
more than ever for the accessories to dainty
summer gowns. Fully half of the corsages
10 summer gowns are made so as to hide
the openings under trimming and often
The thinner weaves of crepons admit of
such light and airy trimming. l saw one
of pale biscuit color and around the bot
tom there was a bias resada ruffie 5 inches
wide overlaid with a hounce of lace
Around the skirt at the knee was another
of the same, but narrower. The belt was
lace insertion over the satin and closed with
/ a chou, and all the other trimming carried
out the same artistic idea, lace over resada
satin.
A "dreadfully stylish" gown for garden
party, or coaching parade, or promenade
under the shade of the trees at Saratoga,
or on the sands at Newport, is of specked
crepon, the underweave being mode and
the specks magenta red. Around the top
of the elliptic flounce are five rows of mar
row magentas satin ribbon, and as many
more are sewed fiat to the bottom. The
jacket is a queer mixture of incroyable,
Elton and 1880. The jacket and gigot sleeves
are of darker shade of mode, with gar
nture of jet and ruby passementerie. The
belt and tie end in soft little donkey ear
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

U
pretty, for the marriages are nearly always
of blood kin.
He is the full cousin Of his wife, and her
brother, the late King Alfonso of Spain,
married her husbc9l's sister, so there are
double marriages of cousins and OCCASION
ally of double cousins in the old Spanish
way. And very bad way it is. Don An.
tonic of Montpensier as Eulalie's husband
is entitled, is a son of that Duke of Mont
pensier who was noble both in France
and Spain and was thoroughly detested in
both countries for avarice, insincerity and
other faults. Yet the rulers of both nations
had to sustain him because of his being the
connecting link, as Darwin would say, be-
tween the dynasties.
The history is curious. No sooner had
Louis Philippe been made king of the
French than he planned to maintain him
self by royal connections. His youngest
son, therefore, was married to the only
sister of Isabella of Spain, and by his in
trigues Isabella was married to her feeble
cousin, Francisco 'Assis, the manifest in
tention being that she should remain child
less and her sisters offspring inherit the
crown, but Isabella's son was king, and her
grandson is king just the same
That son of Philippe, created duke of
houIpeIlSleT, WAS ldlner Ol Euldlle nus
band and of King Alfonso's wife. His
other daughter married the Comte de Paris,
claimant of the French throne Other chill
dren of Louis Philippe and their children
married other royal offshoots, and beyond
that it is so mixed up that there is no use
in trying to trace it. Nevertheless it is
said that Eulalie's husband is quite a gen
tleman and really knows more than one
could expect.
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23
49, --11.sl1lls has - -
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
APPROPRIATE HAlRDRESSlNG FOR
WARM WEATHER.

Dainty Summer Waists-superb New Silks
That Will Nearly Stand Alone When
Folded-Crepon the Favorite Material
For Summer-Dresses For Daughters.
copyright, 1893, by American Press Associa-
ton.
When the summer sun beats down with
its scorching fire, woman's hair becomes
burden to her and a source of suffering
1t is hot Oh the top, and around the neck it
burns and causes the skin to smart, and,
worst of all, it is apt to get sour and mall
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

STYLISH WAISTS AND HAIRDRESSING.
odorous if not washed every day. Some nle
has managed to make women believe that
it rots the hair to wash it often, and so they
are between a very Scylla and Charybdis. If
it is washed often enough to keep it sweet,
it will fall out, and if it isn't it will smell
bad. What is to be dOneS
If handful of leaves from the common
swamp willow are crushed and thrown into
a quart of cold water and left three or four
hours, the decOction can be well rubbed
into the roots of the hair and will keep it
sweet and clean At the same time it Is a
powerful tonic, and it strengthens the hair
and causes it to grow, 1t can be used every
day without danger The hair can be
dressed high after the fashion of the Greeks
of olden time, and the knot held in such a
way as to lift it free from the head, and
this is the coolest possible manner of hair
dressing. Parting the hair from front to
back and making it into brads is still
cooler, but the braids should be left free,
and that is not stylish. The 1880 and Gre
clan styles are the most in favor now, and
what with waving the sides, cr1mpng the
front and twisting up the back into a classic
knot one needs but little hair. False braids
and chignons may come in, as predicted, but
With the quaint headdressing now comes
the dainty summer mode in waists, which
show some new fancy each day, and all are
so graceful and light that one looks for
them much as one hunts for new and more
beautiful flowers in a garden, delighted
with each new variety. l saw two recently
that claimed my admiration One was a
pale blue china silk basque, made with a
few plaits eased in the skirt part both back
and front under a thick ribbon belt of the
same shade. The sleeves were double bal
loon puffs, and there were bretelles gath
cred narrow at the belt and inches wide
on the shoulders The collar was plain
and high Along the edge of the breteles
was one narrow line of gold braid. This
was worn over black satin skirt. The
other was of india silk with delicate fig
ures through it. The sleeves were very
large double balloon puffs and the waist
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

was draped surplice fashion in front, lap
ping to the right side. In the back it was
shirred to a round point. This was worn
over dark blue velvet skirt.
saw recently lovely gown that was be-
ing laid between soft papers before being
sent to Newport for a society belle. 1t
had a full empire skirt with pink satin
foundation. The skirt measured yards
around, and it was completely covered with
3-inch ruffies of pink silk muslin, gathered
on and overlapping, so that the satin was
not seen unless the breeze lifted flounce a
trife. The corsage was of satin, with deep
point in front, and was cut square in the
neck, with a fall of silk muslin the same
depth as the hounces, but no breteles. The
sleeves were of satin, completely covered
with Pinch ruffies of the pink silk muslin.
On the shoulders there was full pinked
rose plating of moss green Grape, which
went all round the arm size.
There was a dainty coat made of the satin
10 be worn with this. 1t was shaped like
revolutionary coat with collar, cuffs and
pockets decidedly masculine except for the
color and material. A straw Louis XI hat
trimmed with pink plumes and an aigret
of sparkling beadwork completed the cos
tune.
eerb have ever seen. They will nearly
stand alone when folded. The weave is be-
tween a satin mitrailleuse and armure,
with something of both to it. On this are
brocaded fiowers-great punches of purple
and white lilacs, with their heart shaped
leaves-as perfect as paintings, half yard
deep Some have festoons of ropes of flow
ers, they being in natural colors and true
to nature Others have the same superb
ground with velvet embossed pansies, with
their leaves, and grasses. Some have Eng
lsh violets, with foliage, on maize ground.
! A few of the patterns are astonishingly
large, particularly lilacs. which do not come
in little punches, but in branches laden
with bloom, some of the patterns being
nearly yard deep.
The material most liked for summer is
undoubtedly crepon in some one of the va
riations, and it is wonderful how many va
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

bows and are of magenta colored surah.
The hat is of mode straw in an indefinable
shape, but with magenta ribbons and trail
ing dried grasses. This gown is peculiarly
suited to some tall, slender, dark beauty
whose lovely eyes rebel against a chaperon
and draw all hearts "by some subtle law
and almost divine imperiousness."
The chaperon can make herself at least
tolerable in a creamy white serge gown,
hemmed and tailor stitched around the bot
tom. A basque, also tailor finished, has
wide revers of lilac corded silk and vest
of brocade or braided pattern lilac over
gold, with a belt of dark purple velvet. A
chaperon's dress should in all cases be as
nearly as possible foil and suitable
background for the gown worn by her
charge, never gaudy or voyante, yet always
well made and of good material, for it is to
be supposed that any woman who engages
chaperon for her daughter would be
financially able to pay a salary large
enough to enable her to dress suitably.
| saw dress for young girl who is en-
joying her first season in society, and it
was so very dainty and girlish and withal
so out of the common that mention it as
guide for other girls. The waist and skirt
as we'll as the frilled caps over the sleeves
were of white serge. The waist was gath
cred in to a belt, under a dark blue vel
vet belt with windmill bow. The collar
was of the same. Around the neck was d
fall of lace arranged to resemble pointed
yoke There were two caps to the sleeves
which were wrinkled gigots. The sleeves
were of printed china silk in blue cornhow-
err pattern. There was an S-inch ruffie
around the bottom of the silk, headed by
an insertion of white lace laid on fiat, over
band of ribbc$ just the color of the corn
| flowers. A cunning little blue velvet toque
with white mercury plumes was worn with
it, and wide white chip tricorne hat with
white lace and blue cornfower also went
with it for other occasions.
1t has often struck me as remarkable
that the smallest children have the largest
hats and the fullest coats, and yet they
are so pretty. The 5-year-old tot has a coat
of checked cheviot in shepherds plaid,
with a wide collar of embroidery, and
pulled sleeves ruffled with the same and a
shirred nlolin hat as big as parasol, Gov
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

Paper stockings are now worn in Ger
many as a preventive of colds. The material
they are formed of is specially prepared pa
per- impregnated with some substance
which apparently sucks up all the perspira-
ton as quickly as it is formed, keeping tbs
feet warm and dry.
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23
THE INFANTA'S HUSBAND.

A Person of Political Consequence, bus
Personal Insignihcance.
Eulalie, princess and infanta, has inter.
ested everT one so much that there is dam
Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-06-23

cred with lace and ribbons Her sister
wears a soft ashes of roses crepon with
three narrow black velvet ribbons around
it, wrinkled sash and full waist with a
soft bias silk ruffle, and simple straw hat
with modest ribbon trimming in bite and
gray. Both, however, wear black stock
ings and at this season Oxford ties.
NATL LEROY.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
FASHIONS FANClES.
Upon many ball gowns beaded lace is
the favorite trimming.

Upon many ball gowns beaded lace Is
the favorite trimming.
Some of the new sleeves are formed OF
two or three puffings and finished with a
deep frilling.
A pretty style of dressing for the home
is the silk blouse waist, now fashionably
worn over skirts that are more or less
passe.
Robin red is new color In tailor
cloth and is pretty when combined with
russell brown velvet and dull gold passe-
menterie.
Cloth dresses. in princess style, have
vests Of draped cloth Of a contrasting
color and are trimmed with lengthwise
rows of fur.
For young women the fashionable silks
for evening wear are extremely delicate
in coloring, pink and heliotrope in their
palest tones seeming to predominate.
The newest empire brocades are fig-
ured in rose wreaths and branches, with
yellow, white and pink roses together
on a ground of eminence purple satin, or
of gold, green, Russian blue or white.
The bell shape still retains its vogue,
and this delightfully."- easy and very
graceful skirt will not soon disappear,
although modified in some examples bv
sloping on the front and often widened
at the base by gussets.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
Pruning Street Trees.

Street trees sometimes need prun-
ing. If, however, they have been
originally well selected small knife
will be all that is necessary for a few
years to remove an occasional branch
that starts out in the wrong place.
There is rarely any necessity for cut
ting off large limb. If this neces-
sity ever does come the limb should
be cut off close to the trunk and the
place smoothed over and painted, 30
that the wound will be ultimately
covered with healthy bark.
We have often explained that
wherever a stub is left this must
inevitably die, and as the trunk
grows about it there will be pug Of
rotted wood where the branch orig
inally grew, and the disease will eat
inward and downward as the water
soaks in from without.-Garden and
Forest.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
The Brooklyn Bridge at Night.

People who never walk over the bridge
miss lot. The view is superb and
changes in every season, under every
sky. and with every lighting at every
hour. The air is of the freshest. And
then there are the jays. Great Scott
What place it is for jaysl 1t is one OF
the first things they have to see when
they come in from Poquannock and
Squedunk with doughnuts and apples in
their pockets, and they walk slowly
across it, wondering at everything and
wishing they knew what the principal
buildings were, but afraid to ask the po-
lice for fear of being clubbed and afraid
to ask common folks for fear of being
bunkoed. Then there are Italians and
Cinnamon and Russian Hebrews. It is
a great promenade for them.
It is hard to say whether the view is
finer by day or night, but each has a
charm of its own, and one of the most
impressive sights to be seen is when there
is no view at all and the great structure is
blanketed in fog, and you have the place
mostly to yourself; when the lights make
spaces of yellow glow that are uncanny.
and the red lights at the towers make it
seem as If the fog were mist of blood;
when out of the depths comes the funer-
al toll of bells at the ferry slips, guiding
the bunting and shunting boats as they
feel their way across the river.-Brook-
lyn Standard Union.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
ON the Wrong street.

A couple of professional Irish
mourners were hired to follow the
corpse. They were instructed to look
neither to the left nor to the right,
and not to raise their eyes, but GO
straight ahead.
The hearse gets down side street,
and as they mustn't look up, but
walk straight ahead, they become
impressed with the notion that they
are in the wrong path.
mike, look up; look up, for heav.
ems sake" says one, II think we are
on the wrong track. The smill Is in
tinse here"
"Oh, begorra, says the other, 81
cudn't look up. If did I'd lose me
fee."
"I'll go halves wild you. Look up.
We must be on the wrong track or
the door of the corpse must be open.
The smill is intinse."
After considerable pickering Mikes
companion promised to divide if he
lost his share by looking up. Mike
looked up and found that they were
following a swill cart.-New York
World.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
Like a Fairy Princess.

One of the most charming women at
the Spanish court is Mime. Varconcellos.
a lady of Sandoval, who is belle Espagn-
ole of the most ravishing type. She is
tall, slender, dark eyed, with raven
tresses and ineffable grace of movement.
When she was single, she had 80 many
suitors that she resembled the princess Of
a fairy tale. Four of these young men,
all of good family and fortune, in de-
spair of her coldness, bound themselves
by vow more worthy of the middle
ages than modern iberia never to marry
any other woman and to seek death for
four years, at the end of which time the
survivor should return and renew his
suit.
One of them went to America, where
he was shot in a street brawl. Another
joined the French army in Tonquin and
was killed in foray with the Black
Flags. The third fell avictim to African
suns and privations. The fourth, having
passed successfully through series Of
South American revolutions and wars,
returned to Spain, only to be drowned
in harbor by an extraordinary accident
Exchange.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
RAILROAD JOTTlNGS.

Hungary is stated to be the country
where railway travelling is the cheapest.
A steel bridge is being constructed
over the Passaic river at Millington, N.
j., by the Delaware. Lackawanna and
Western.
Last year there were 93,200 freight
cars built in the United States, against
95,5OO in the previous year, and 8,795
passenger cars, against 1855 in 1891.
Five hundred cars are being built for
the Indiana, Illinois and Iowa road that
will be equipped with airbrakes and
other modern appliances. The compa-
ny's new trademark will be used on each
car.
The citizens of Jersey City are trying
to force the Erie company to elevate its
tracks through the city. The fact that
the Erie has to use tunnel to go through
Bergen hill will make such a scheme
next to impossible to perform.
President Roberts of the Pennsylvania
has assigned the duties formerly per-
formed by the late Second Vice Presi-
dent Du Barry in connection with the
treasury and insurance departments Of
the company to Third Vice President
Green.
The Cincinnati, Hamilton and Dayton
has been trying to lease the Cincinnati,
Jackson and Mackinaw, but its aspira-
tions in that direction have been killed
by court of Cincinnati, which has placed
a perpetual injunction on the scheme on
the ground that the two roads are COM
petitors.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
Youths Companion.
A Difference of Opinion.

"Poor Kalakauap said the man who
was toasting his shins at the radiator.
HE wasn't half as bad king as the pa
pers made him."
THAT may be true" replied the man
In the big brown ulster. But notice
you pronounce his name Kal-lak-a-wah.
! think the right pronunciation Is Kal-
lah-ka-wah."
"Very nearly correct" observed the
man who was chewing toothpick.
"Kal-a-kah-wah, however, comes little
nearer to 1t, unless am much mistaken.
II have always called 1t Kal-a-kaw-
ah," remarked the hungry looking man
In the slouch hat.
"a Sandwich Islander wouldn't know
whom you meant by that" spoke up the
man with the cork leg. "Kal-a-ka-wah
Is the way to pronounce it,"
"Come OFF, said the man with his feet
on the table. Whats the matter with
Kal-a-ko-ahT
"Or Kal-a-kah-wahY' suggested the
night clerk.
"None of you have hit it yet" piped
the fat man with the oily face who was
looking over the register. I'm Kanaka
ill the vowels are sounded. The name
Is Kalah- h-kah-oo-ah."
This broke up the symposium. .-Wichi-
ta Ran.) Leader.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
No Wonder II Brnke.

The couplings between two cars Of o
train drawing out Of the Long Island
depot recently parted. The bellrope
snapped like the report Of pistol, and
the engine and forward section, relieved
Of the great weight Of several runaway
cars, leaped forward and started down
the track at frightful speed.
The passengers In the first of the di-
vorced cars hurried to the forward end
TO watch the rapidly disappearing bag
gage car and locomotive.
"Oh, what is the matterY queried an
excited woman to her seatmate.
Nothing serious. Don't alarm your
self, madam. he replied. 1.-THE train has
merely parted"
The woman sank back treasured, and
then catching glimpse of the frayed
end of the bellrope she said: well. I
don't wonder at it. Did they suppose q
little string like that would hold these
great, heavy cars togetherr'-New York
Herald.
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
THE LATEST NOVELTIES.

Snakeskin cardcases mounted in silver
are stunning.
Chrysoprase and jade are both decid-
edly fashionable.
A standard mirror Of silver is round,
with repousse broken edge.
Enameled sugar tongs Of silver gilt are
worth inspection for their odd designs.
Large white enameled sleeve buttons
covered with minute daisy forms In gold
are pretty.
The popularity Of olivines Is astonish-
ing. Entire pieces of jewelry are made
from them.
There are curious fancies In jewelry.
among them being the hobby horse pin
of enameled gold and diamonds. A
Jockey Is mounted on child's horse
speeding him with stick.
A new silver envelope rack has per-
forated standard at the back like bish-
ops crozier. and the center partition rises
in light swan necked form. II seems
to have some symbolic significance.
There is distinct interest now In fli-
gree work The most charming conceits
In bonbon dishes, spoons, all sorts Of
trinkets. bijouterie, are made In hligree.
In silver and silver gilt Silver gilt 70
especially populas.--Jswslsrs 0rculas,
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1893-03-02
S89E:zzsfijee7IleNs S9E:zz s
NlZS 80 80 ss.. lSs(lC
s@=sss's7zz-zz--e -5szz=-@=-s-----zzs
RESPlENDENT IN DIAMONDS.
Fine Display of Precious Stones at n
Jewellers Dinner Party.

A Fine Display of Precious Stones at a
Jewellers Dinner Party.
twas beautiful banquet that the Jew
elers gave themselves and their friends
at Delmonicos. About 275 persons sat
down at the tables in the main hall and
in the side rooms-persons who deal in
diamonds and precious stones, silver and
fine gold. There was goodly display
of their wares, not only on the splendid
ly decorated tables, but also upon the
persons of the members of the jewelers.
board of trade and their guests. You
may get some idea of it from these notes,
furnished by Jeweler S. f. Meyers:
81. w. Appleton sported solitaire
ring with 3-carat peerless diamond,
worth $4,000.
"H. F. Hahn of Chicago wore white
solitaire of four carats on his little
finger, the value of which would pay for
at least two trips around the world.
George F. Foley wore three black
pearls at one time owned by the khedive
Of Egypt.
Harry Gimell, the father Of the
trade, wore Maltese cross of diamonds,
emeralds and sapphires, worth $1O, 900.
"'Deacon' Harry Hayes wore three
diamond studs on his bosom, the united
value of which was over $1,000.
calvin Strasburger was adorned with
sparkling set of solitaire stones, three
on his bosom, one ON his finger, and one
in his collar button, the united value of
which was $4,000.
"H. j. Lamb of Chicago wore a rare
ring set in sapphires, opals and Tiffany
shank and opal centers, worth 5000. It
was the envy of his neighbors.
~. Adler wore rare stone known as
the interchangeable diamond, the differ
ent hues of light of which were those of
the diamond, emerald and sapphire. This
belonged to Empress Eugene at one
time and is worth $4,000.
"Tom Fessenden of Providence wore
cuff buttons in imitation of silver spoons.
81. Muir wore 7-carat emerald worth
$4,000.
"T. S: Sherry of Sag Harbor wore a
7-carat opal that is the envy of his lady
friends.
"H. H. Butts steel gray diamond COL
lar button was worth $4,000.
POSTMASTER Cornelius Van Cott wore
3-carat pearl ring worth $500.
"E. j. Schofeld exhibited on his shirt
front large pair of $4,000 India pearls"
The energy of Mr.. Meyers gave out
long before the jewels in the bosoms,
cuffs and watch chains of the jewellers
were lsted.-New York Sun.