The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1893-04-09
THE WOMAN OFFASHI0N
THE REALM or ANTIQUE, QUAINT
AND CURIOUS.
Not Only $50 Gowns. But Also 1880 De-
pertinent the Rsge-The Old-tashioned
Lace Fichu-Lace Trimming.

The girls are getting more and more
Interested in the ancient, the antique.
They are getting out all of the old books
they can fnd-books on court robes
on fashions, which their srandmothers
carefully laid away; books on old-time
etiquette-for If you wear a quaint old
gown you must bear yourself accordingly;
it will never do to have a fin de steele
walk with an 1880 flare. That would be
too incongruous. The walk that accom-
panies the crinoline skirt must be slow
and stately and rhythmical, as If one
were keeping time with soft music. Then
there must be no quick, sudden action on
the part of the wearer OF the gown all
movements must be deliberate, graceful,
carefully planned and perfectly executed;
the gown that enfolds the girl demand
even a change in the manner of speech,
as we'll as in her words; no bright, ring
ing words, full Of all the true American
girls charms. may now spring forth from
her lips; she must speak gently, quietly,
calmly, sweetly, graciously, ana above
all, deliberately, as II time were not
flying fast, but as If the hours would
await her pleasure and hang upon her
words. 1t is quite possible that the new
dress, or rather the old one revived, may
retard the progress of woman half a
century or so. For If she be true TO the
quaintness which she has begun to as
sumo i'm all respects, and adopts all the
characteristics Of the womanly woman,
as the term was understood in the good
old days. there will be no ballot, no plat
form, no equal rights for this frail bit
Of humanity. She will a V no voice In
which 70 claim them, for it's pitch will
have been gently modulated to suit the
gown.
Poor womani What a martyr she makes
of herself How bravely she sinks her
identity into that Of her gown. Unselish
isn't the word for it. She simply loses
herself, and finds her robe. But she feels
cousOled for all her heroism and suffering
and self-denial when she wins the atten-
ton and recalls the wandering fancy Of
the Indifferent man, who has not been so
attentive Of late as might be. She knows
that all this q%uaintness Of apparel and
speech will amuse him, and she knows
that If he is amused and interested he
will not flee. And. therefore, a diligent
search is continually kept up for all the
oddities that found favor In the eyes OF
the danes OF old, and Upon the recovery
Of each there is great rejoicing.
There is abundant field for this industry
I'm the line Of fchus, lace nantes. fine
crapey materials, that fold sweetly and
demurely over the breast. One girl has
a silken cape Of a material that is striped
with crinkly and ,Aen with plain crepe.
The cape is palest pink. Another has
n small lace cape, Just covering the Shout
ders, and for a heading. to lie on her
paoL fold rtppO fold Of nqIn hlfIn chiffon.
A brilliant brunette has a heavy black
lace mantle, long and queer-looking. tied
with brilliant scarlet. Another has a
peculiar garment, made OF crinkled stripes
OF three pale c~olors-yellow. blu and
plnk-which hangs down straight and
square across the back, but is caught
up in front in a knot at the breast. and
then edged with old lace. Then ever so
many girls have the real old fichu, the
genuine thing, that comes straight over
the shoulder and folds simply In front;
and these make a sweet-faced damsel
look doubly demure and charming. Lastly,
there's a small cape made Of fine strings
OF tiny ribbon. in all the light %colors,
caught top and bottom on a thin foun-
dation and edged and headed with lace
ruffles.
The dlshabille elegant comes next, and
though this must be loose and flowing,
II must still be graceful, fashionable.
well-ftting. A very pretty one can be
made of some thin, silky or gauzy mate
rial, accordion plated from the neck
down. Al the back the loose plaits are
caught I'm by a belt, but the belt disap-
pears beneath the fullness in front, which
hangs loosely. Two embroidered pieces
pointing downward lie on the chest. The
sleeves are very pretty, made or strips
OF ribbon and accordion plating. with
broad ribbon loops falling loosely over
the shoulders.
: o'clock tea-jacket is very COM
Portable; it is made Of warm ruby color.
with an embroidered vine running down
each side Of the open front. The front
Is a double jabot of embroidered chiffon.
and the open jacket fronts are caught
together over Il by a ribbon bow. The
Jacket has an edge of feather trimming
all around. and the revers and rolling
collar are also faced with the curling
feathers. This is very soft and effec-
tive.
Parasols, II the signs speak truly, Will
be very small this coming season. Some
very tiny ones are displayed now, lying
in close proximity, however, TO reasonably
large ones: and it may be that capricious
women will reject the tiny one and take
the larger one when the time actually
comes for wearing the dainty, fimsy
summer parasol-the thing Of lace and
nounce. and streaming ribbon.
The glazed glove takes the place or the
suede for out-of-dOor wear more and more.
The suede is relegated 10 the evening al
most entirely. although many OF It's FOL
lowers refuse to discard II as yet. me
suede has such a soft way of sinking