Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1893-02-24
NOTES OF TRAVEL: NO, g,
Ven1ce-lts Canals.The PalaZxO of
ST. mark-The Cathedral-Doge,s
Palace and Churches.


der trsnsept arch ,is the finely sculptured
marble sarcophagus, with bronze lions. of
Danislto Manin, president of the republic
In 1s4s. Visitors can walk around the
church on gallery to inspect the mosaics,
also In front, where the bronze horses are,
by paying fee of 10 centimes extra.
The palace of the doges, or palazzo du-
Gale, has been destroyed by fire FIVE times
since it was founded, A. D. 800, and was
| rebuilt each time in grander style. The
present one dates from 1424-32. The pal
ace Is used as museum and art gallery at
the present time. To reach the interior
we ascend the Scala del Giganti, broad
flight of steps. Around the upper colon
made are the busts of Venetian scholars,
artists and doges. To go to the upper
story you take the Scala d'Oro stairway,
built by Sansovina, which is richly deco
rated with paintings and stucco work, once
| used by the noblt only, which leads direct
to the upper story, to the Atrio Qusdrato,
the ceilings of which and wall portraits of
senators of the republic are by Tintoretto
This part of the upper floor contains the
apartments in which the authorities of the
| republic used to hold their meetings, and
retain much of their beautiful adornments
of that period. The first room you enter
after leaving the Atrio Qusdrato is the
| Sale Bussols, the ante chamber of the in
QUESTION of the republic. There is an
opening in the wall here once adorned with
the head of a lion, into the mouth of
whom accusations We're cast against par-
sons, to have them brought before the
rs hn Ao- g~,1
| pictures by Sansovina and Aliense.
The ceiling decoration represents St.
| Mark surrounded by angels and was exc
| cuted by Paul Veronese. In the next
| room, Sala del Dieci, there are portraits of
| several of the popes and of the Emperors
Bsrbarossa and charles V. TIE Ceilings
| of this room were painted by Zslotti and
P. Veronese. The third room is tie Stsnzs
del Consigiio. This subject of its ceiling
decoration ts an angel driving away the
| vices, by P V-rones+; the side walls ara
| adorned with paintings by Ssnaovins, da
Sallo, Bellini and Cattini In room 5,
| Salls del Porte. on the entrance wall is the
doge 6timsni kbeeling before Religion,
by Titan, wish side paintings 10y
his pupiie There are some fus
historical paintings in this room by
| TintaIetto and Others In room 6.
Sala del Senate, senate chamber, there are
represented over the throne, the descent
from the cross, doge Francisco Venier be-
fore the Venetio; dogs Ciagna in the pres
ence of the Savior; Venetia on the lion
| against Europa on the bull; the doge
| l. redon itnpioriDg the aid CT the virgin
on the ceiling Venice queen of the ses) by
Tintoretto. Beyond this room Ia the
chapel of the doges, with a large collection
of fine pictures. At the right Of this room
ls the Sslla del Colegio. The ceiting of this
room, painted by Paul Veronese, contains
figures of Neptune, Mars, Faith, Venetia
on globe with Justice aud Peace. The
ceiling Is considered to be the finest one in
the palace.
We now return to the upper colonnade
and take Scala die Censori staircase to the
first floor, containing the library and read
ing room of St Mark. The Sslls del Con-
sjglio, or representative hall, Is also on
thls floor. On the friezs of this room is
| painted the portraits of seventy ak doges,
| on the east wall of this room is Paradise, u
| by Titan, the largest oil painting in the
| world, venty-four feet long aud twenty
| eight wide, and contains over 500 figures
| of men and women and several other his
| toricsl pictures Besides these pictures
there are forty six historical paintings and
| pictures In, this room and corridor, mostly
| by celebrated painters.
The Archaeological museum ia also on
| this floor, and consists of i've large rooms
| filed with ancient sculpture, brouzes and
busts of Roman empsrors, etc.
The Academic dele Belle Arti Is on the
| grand canal by the iron bridge, the en-
trance being under tbs statue of Minerva
and the lion, and contains pictures, mostly
of Venetian artists. There are fourteen
large rooms, besides a court and gallery,
filed with pictures, of which shall name
| only two or three of the most notable.
In room 1 is Titians' master pieca, the
| Assumption of the Virgin, and his Vista
ton and Descent from the Cross; and the
Supper at the House of Levi, by Paul
Veronese. In room is Titian's Presenta.
ton to the Temple. There are depicted
fifty persons, three palaces, the facade OF
the temple, an obelisk, portico, hill
side and trees, mountains and sky. At the
| top of series of gray stone steps stands q
body of priests and the high priest. The
Virgin, young girl. in blonde and
blue aureole, sscends, lifting her robe
There Is nothing very sublime about her;
her little cheeks are plump, and she is a
perfect child. In the foreground is an old
crone with her basket Of eggs, and near to
! her, under some vines, Ia statue. A pro-
cession of mon and women in long veas-
ments are at the foot of the sseps-whilst
rounded arches, oolonnsdes and statues
form a complete whole to this wonderfully
realistic picture The Assumption by Titan
is also . very fine picture. The death of
Abel, by Tintoretto and madonna enthront d,
by Bellini, most magnificent painting, as
| we'll IS the Atonement, by Titan, painted
in his ninety ninth year, are all in rooms
IS and IA.
During our stay of two weeks We Visited
most of the finest churches, such as the
| San Maria del Salute, ST. Stephsno, where
| scores of doges and other eminent men are
buried, it bsing the largest church in Ven
ice. The sarcophaguses in which the doges
are entombed are marvellous works of
sculptursl art. The church Of st. Bsssano
has three paintings by Tintoretto, of which
one, the Cruoi6xion, is one Of the finest in
the left of the high altar. The foreground
Is covered with brsmbles. Among these
the seamless robe of Christ has fallen
at the foot of the cross-the wild
grasses thrown here and there over the
folds of rich pale crimson. Behind them
and seen throug III them the heads of the
Roman soldiers are raised against the sky,
and above them their spears and halberds
form forest outline against the sky. The
three crosses are on the right of the pic
ture. The executioners in the center, one
,.k
other sponge and tablet with the words:
I. N. R. 8. The Madonna and St. John
on the left of the painting are fine por-
traits. The other paintings are the Resur-
rection and the descent into Hades, both
fine pictures and we'll worth the time
spent in their examination
The Gesuiti is q fine church built entire
ly of NAL BILE inlsid with verde antique
The high altar is supported by ten spiral
columns of what is called verde d'Verona.
Above on globe is represented God the
Father and Jesus. The large church of
Degli Scala outside is also we'll worth the
visit; so are the Venetian glsss works.
We visited the Ghetto, or Jews quarter,
on market day. It is situated on the canal
Mestre. Their stalls Were in the street
close to the curb, their island being wide
enough to permit of few narrow streets,
the sidewalks being only vida enough to
allow two to pass; but the streets are paved
with large blocks of marble, laid smooth,
on which the booths are placed for the
sale of all kinds of vegetables, fruits,
flowers. fish. etc. The people appeared to
be contented and happy.
All of the palace and most of the best
houses have their fronts built or encrusted
with marble of several colors, mostly
white. the other colors bling used for en-
bellishirg mostly, along with prophyry
and serpsntine interlsced. The ma, bles
are brought from Istria, 100 miles swsy.
where there are extensive q oarries The
buildings, In fact, sre all built of brick,
this being what is called ercrusted with
co1rees of two or more colors with the
brick the win6ows and doorrar, bot.