The record-union., 1893-07-01
special Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright 1881

There is no place in England where
such fine example of the very ancient
stone-built village may be found. as at
broadway, the "Bradwea'' of 500 years
ago, which nestles against the lower slope
OF the northwestern face of the Cotswold
Hills, overlooking the lovely vale of
Evesham. The many-gabled Lyon
Arms, delicious resort for American
and English artists and other genuine
epicures of food, scenery and charming
antiquities, is the most ancient of all the
structures of the slumberous old mount
ain town.
The precise structure standing here to-
day is known to have been occupied as
an inn for upwards of 500 years. 1t is
charmingly picturesque without, and its
interior is most quantity arranged, with
odd hooks and corners, while the first
hoor OF the east wing has fine old room
with curlously-carved chimney-piece
IN stone, other interesting Ornamental
ton, ana a wondrous lot of charming
traditions about the great folk, some on
desperate business, like Charles l. in
I645, and Cromwell in 1851, who have
lodged within it. Broadway itself is the
sweetest old English pastoral village
Idyl to be found in England and, to me
chimneys, its many gables and dormers,
its stone and iron finals, mullioned win
dows and bays, its fine old ingles and
nreplaces. with its stone walls, thick as a
Iorps, maSsed with creepers and vines, is
Its warmest and mellowest page.
The old cathedral city of Gloucester
possesses several very ancient inns which
are still IN use, two of which are regarded
as among the most interesting sights of
the place by all foreign travellers. One OF
these, the New Inn, is an extraordinary
relic of very ancient times and deeply in
terestlpg from its great age, its historical
associations and its extremely picturesque
character, its architecture having many
features in common with the large and
distinctly Moresque inns of Spain and
Portugal.
Readers of history will recall that the
splendid south aisle of Gloucesters mag
niilcent cathedral was built in 1918 by
Abbot Thokey, during the period of
whose abbacy the body of murdered King
Edward H., which had been refused in
terment in the abbeys of Malmesbury,
Alngswood and Bristol, was given burial
within 1t. Great pilgrimages to Edward S
tomb, and wonderfully increased reven-
ues TO the then abbey church resulted.
Inc tnrongs were sometimes so enormous
that the city could not shelter them, and
they We're obliged to encamp at night
outside the gates. a shrewd old monk
vantage OF the situation in l45O, under the
abbacy and with the sanction and assist
ance OF the famous abbot, Thomas Sea-
broke, built the New Inn, which. at the
time, doubtless had no superior as a
public hOstelry in Europe. Think of
taxing your ease III your inn, as you can
90 IN Jne New Inn of Gloucester to-day,
IN tavern which has survived the
changes OF ALB years and never been
closed day!
The quaint old place is so cunningly
hidden behind the grim walls of North
gate street that the casual straggler, not
having IN 1t actual quest, would be fortu-
nate indeed if his glance penetrated the
deep, dark archway separating it from
the street and fell upon the charming
old-world scene within. l can never for
get my own experience, when, wholly
ignorant OF the spot, and of all of dear old
Gloucester, for that matter l had come,
after a wearisome tramp, down from the
Malvern Hills, and without object or
purpose, was leaning against the corner
of this same dark archway for bit of
rest. Turning in vagrant way to de-
part coaching party dashed gaily past
me through the archWay NV ewes fol-
lowed the cavalcade, and then my legs
followed my gladdening eyes. What an
exquisite pleasure was in that sense Of
original discovery of a place so pictu-
rescue and old! How hesitatingly l tip
toed about that fine and ancient court
yard, feasting on this and that like a COW
etous intruder, and when l found that
these were anybody's pictures for the
reckoning of even threepenny worth of
entertainment, with what delight did
luXuriate at the bOw-window of the fine
old coftee-room, ordering this and that
which l did not want, and tipping the
waiter so immoderatelS that he sent an
other, but taxing them all with questions
so that they escaped between answers,
and finally wound up by settling an ad-
vance score which removed all doubts of
responsibility, if not of insanity, while
ordering my luggage to its quaintest old
room with the loquacity of a bridegroom
and the bravery of lord!
Around the entire three stories of the
inner court, which is very spacious, run
galleries, upon which all the dormitories
open, precisely as with the Spanish patio
or court, while the half-story of the
peaked roof Is broken into dormers,
hooded with pretty thing, and their faces
set, like the border Of an old woman's
cap, with simple but wondrous ornamen-
tation. The most picturesque of all stairs
and landings lead from one story to the
other. Huge iron recommendations. many
cast with sacred emblems in view of its
original pilgrim character are found
promiscuously attached to the doors, win
dows ana ceilings, angles and bows
DiamoRd-shaped panes in leaden frames
are common. Easement and little swing
ing windows are everywhere throughout
the structure. inches for effigies and
carved crosses have not yet been hidden
by time and change.
Opposite the street archway is another
lesser but picturesque archway, with the
entire facade of the rear side of the quad
angle above, showing as quaint and
dreamful scene of restfulness and an
tlqulty as can be seen in Europe. Through
thlS Is reached the stable-vard now re-
stricted to accommodation for sixty
horses. Ia olden times it could care for
hundreds of animals, as folk of quail
ity in the time OF the King Edward pill
grimages ably came on horseback. Ev-
erything about the New Inn is queer and
quaint and old. Never elsewhere was
seen such a radiant tumble of odd cor
ners, little arches, protruding upper sto-
rieS, peepholes of windows, gables,
offices, 'ostries,". taprooms, and wealth
Of vines andsioliage and grave, unctuous
walters ana chuOby-cheeked Kitchen
maids, hOusemaids and barmaids to
highten the mysteries, cheer and charm
OF this typical old English inn.
Dead Old Bowes, in Northern York
shire, alongside what, in former times,
was called the Great North Road, pos
seSses one of the finest specimens of the
ample roadside inns of the olden coach
ing days to be found in all England The
village and this inn have always had for
me the weirdest fascination OF any pro-
vincial spot in Britain, though both ham
let and inn are now dreary and desoIate
beyond description. The old inn here.
now called the Unicorn, was first known
as the George. Eight coaches, bound
either to London or Glasgow, daily
changed horses in its great yard in the
good old coaching days. 1t is TO this inn
that Charles Dickens, with a great and
merciful motive in fiction, repaired with