New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-23
FASHION IN NEW YORK.
SUMNER COSTUMES AND BRIDAL GOWNS.

| SUMNER COSTUMES AND BRIDAL GOWNS.
The summer gowns designed for afternoon wear,
garden parties and other dress occasions superior
to those which have been worn for several years past
in ghtncss and airncss Of material, that in spite
OF the increased fncss Of all gowns they are less
wcghiy than they last season. when the
heavier wool like callies and oropon, used, and
velvet trimmings prevailed. charming gown re-
! Gently worn at Il garden party was copied from one
the silver wedding trousseau OF Queen Marguerite
of Italy. 1t has creamy mOus>elin de sole, en-
broidcred above the lower edge with daisies httle
! line OF gold uniting the flowers. There was iuii
! border Of lace below the hem. The skirt was mounted
over skirt of lilac moIssclin de sole. and these two
| Transparent skirts hung foundation skirt
OF white silk. The cOrsage has narrow plasiroh
nj the back and front Of pale, lilac-coorcd velvet
| Full sleeves and collar and a bertha Of mousse!in
embroidered with daisies and gold thread completed
the bodice and there long sash OF lilac ribbon
around the waist. little shoulder cape of white
mou,selln over lilac which was embroidered with
daisies and edged with lace accompanied the dress.
The plstron In this dress Is to De noted 10y
ladies who. like Queen Marguerite. are inclined to
| ir, stout Of figure. ID has the same elect as the
lcngthvi,c stripe In the skirt In reducing the APP
parent size Of the figure. The fashion OF edgng the
cores OF the umbrella skirt with plpngs Of color or
rows Of Jet gtll0on Is that should liz taken al
vantage OF by stout women The horizontal pahu'
that are now 50 much used certainly add to the
applrent breadth and diminish the apparent height
OF the figure when these bands are placed at an
eoual distance apart in but when they are
n,,cod considerably apart one at the edge OF the
skirt one nt the knee and one the hips. the effect
is greatly diminished and IS not unbecomns 10 Il
stout figure. As rule. however hoped SKlr'S anu
r,uncod effect, are to be- avoided BY the woman Vi
cmhonrclnt.
charming costume for stout woman is q
pola Sludp ~
trimmed with Insertions OF butcrcolored brus's
/ lace Laid on the skirt In lcngthwise stripes
nouncc Of the same lace ut the loot Is ShHH"' ~
tooucd with tiny clusters OF viocis set III Inc hcau'
ing AZ intervals. \ bertha Of the same ihee SIT
rounds the cor,ase aud the full sleeves drop from
the shoulder and are held close TO the forearm y
parasol and II mantle to match accompany uiN
dress so that II can be- used iOr garden party.
TIL. Hruccs lace Is "a lace which Is especially pop
Mar til, season. has rather heavy, coars" h'''
while the pattern Is boil and open 1t Is generally
found In butter color and in pale ecri rather IMAM
IN pure white. The large, dropping sleeves 10 not
ala p,rccptiliy 10 the sl" Ike the broad sleeves
which must be avoided by stout women ih'S
/ should also max" Of the fashion Of iene'h"ise
Insertions ON the full top OF their sleeves. leaving
the sleeve close to the forearm and rather long over
the hand. The slightly pointed aniiqu" bodice Is
much more becoming TO woman OF stout inquire
than the straight round bodice
th, season have not only petti,9as and silk s'ocM"Ss
to accompany them but II tie dress IS intended Tor
cal, occasors in summer me fan and plras0l.
/ which are both quite often hriShed with g'd ana
lew,ll,d mountmgs. The parasol TINT matches 'he
| gown has hcccmc necessity for the hshiohaole
woman The extreme Limit of ahsurii'y III 'hS
/ matter was reached by Lond belle. who recently
appcar,d with a IarasOl OF purple Nei'et 10 ma''n
/ her bouiiint purple sleeves.
/ n
tendency 10 pcturesoucnesS effect In the some
/ what conventional gown OF the bridc. "m'e S''ii
/ l. the prevailing fabric. The train OF the weddiS
dress Is very often Of brocadcd satin as II was III
the case OF Lady Cmvcns gown. modiica'oh oi
The l-30 style, may he used for the costume, or the
short WASTED picturesque fashions now known AS the
Empire styles. There is decided tendency Just at
present tuwlrd Tlorcntne and Venetian styles, such
rs were prevalent in the time of Titan. Many OF
,lc old Venetian portraits have rcce'tly been COPIED
for bridal GOWNS The bridal dress at Il recent
wedding was Of heavy crcam-white satin The quaint.
rather long wasted bodice drapcd with point de
Vcn,c ana completed by collar and somacher
cncrr.tcd with pearls The large sleeves, which were
arranged in double puifs the top, extended over
the hands IN narnG effect. and we've edged mt the
wrists with band of pearls The satin skirt was
drapcd with point lace and the long court train
wa, of plain white satin, made and lined
IN the style OF the court gown OF the period. Pale
rose color was the shade OF the six bridesmaids
dresses which were Of silk yelled with striped tbs
sue These gowns were made with full round waists
and elbow sleeves extended In large bell puhs.
deep fall OF old-faSlLOned blond lace finished the
sleeve and formed the bertha the shoulders.
The silk tancta undersirt Of this dress made Of
dancing length, and trimmed with two fun
ruchos silk. at the foot Of the dress and the
other quarter OF yard above It; while the tissue
skirt fell free and straight the pcttic0at. The
maid OF honor wore pink tafcta gown, striped with
lines Of satin. Like the bridesmaids, she wore
large Lcghorn hat trimmed with pink and cluS
tiers Of tissue At Of the prctticst weddings the
maids and the maid OF honor have been dressed In
pure white, in soft, diaphanous material like
gnuzc over silk Grape: the hats have been white
Lcghorn, without Il crown. but trimmed with loops
OF white Grape and clusters OF white ostrich pumes.
sun other hats have been made OF slrred lace I'm
some picturesque old shape Ike the 1880 poke.
The gown usually worn by the brides mother at
II morning wedding Is hands ome reception dress or
calling costume OF silveIaiay ashes Of roses. violet
lace and often with spanged pas,emcnteres in colors
han mouizng With the silk. \ tiny bonnet OF lace
and nowsrs Is worn Tsdn tS @r'i.. cool wooa.n
rial for brides "goingaway' gown this season.
fashion. a pretty gown OF this kind was made OF
gray sergc IN shade especially becoming TO the
Sc Of WERE rmmsd M gray six T% f s and Drd
Tn shiitwai,t worn with the gown WAS OF white SILK
with narrow yellow stripe. \ bride who went
away on II yacht after the wedding wore gown OF
navy blue serge, trimmed with white silk and silver
buttons. There were pirngs Of white SIX H.. on the
the jaunty little naval jacket was piped with white
A white sailor hat, trimmed with band Of blue
and white wing completed the on'llt: Crepon Is
though II l. not 80 suitable Il fabric as serge b cause
picturesque dress is made of daik bucgray cloth
Shot with chive figures In gold. This gown is worn
with large black Matador hat trimmed with feathers