Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1893-06-22

Interesting Descriptions of the Paint
fngs of Ghirloudajo, Giotto and
other Famous Old Masters in the
Church OF Santa Maria Novella and
the Church OF st. Coroe In Florence.
December, 1892.
To the Editor Of the JOURNAL AND COURIER.
There is certain audacity in the bare
idea of describing this great Florence,
this mighty historic city, proclaimed and
held up before the world for centuries,
in song and prose. Impossible as 1t may
seem, to chronicle anything new of this
queenly town, still the point of view of
each new observer, differs slightly from
every other in this great oncoming army
of tourists, both English and American.
If Venice, in all the richness of her art,
If at first paralyzing to the mind of the
sight-sesr, there is still more for the intel
lect to grasp in Florence. For here in let
tiers, as well as in the arts, are towering
up on every side the giants of far off years.
For the first days ones mind is glori-
GUS chaos of poets, heavenly minded paint
ers. priests, martyrs, monks, writers,
sculptors, beautiful but naughty women,
blood thirsty noblemen and tyrannicsl
princes.
By degrees these kaleidoscope confu-
sions resolve themselves into clear shapes
aud sharply cut realities.
From the first deep, solemn boom upon
the ear of the Duomo bell, ssvansrols
stands out singularly distinct and vivid
Naturally one Of the first visits. after re
vent of San Marco, teeming with memo
ries of the great friar. After sesing tn,
faint and lovely fresooes of the "blessei
painter, Fra. Angslics," you approach th,
spot watched over by Fra. Bartolomeo'
dim madonna. Here, In this consecrstec
cell, and inner cell, of Savaronala you se,
the hoir shirt, the sermons from his hand
his chair, and all those relics so pinchins
to the heart. These surroundings add
new force to that picture of him loungins
of that firm, noble face, an almost life
giving quality; a power so great that
more than ever, the wonder, how coult
his followers have lessenedl
How could the zeal have tagged for hin
and his high purpoeesi
| Why the cruel tragedy of the scsffolt
| and the fsmesi Strangely enough there 4
a striking resemblance between George El
lots profile and the earnest, sombre fea
tures of the great man she has 80 wonder
fully drawn.
The priest suggests the prince, Lorenz
di Medici, that other one of the pair, VIII
were perhaps the two chief actors In tn
whole drama of Florentine history, thei
widely differing characters only addini
deep interest to the connection. Yo,
soon grow to feel quite intimate with tn
Medici family here in Florence. 1t take
some resolution not to be dszzled by tn
intellectually brilliant Lorenzo the Nag
nihoent, with his culture and re6nemeuts
his subtle philosophizlngs, his winninl
manners, and to feel your admiration TO
these qualities. cancelled by bis corrupt
ing vices and his selfish ambitions. Blu
at least one owes q debt of gratitude 4
him, and others of his strange and wicket
race, for their lavish patronage of the arts
their amassing of gems and treasures
during the lucid intervals when the
were not engaged In their favorits pas
time of numbering their kindred.
In the closing eoene between Ssvsnaro
Ia and Lorenzo, on the death-bed of tn
latter, have sometimes fsncied a like
nees to the relations between St. Pau
and King Agrippa. The rising up an,
going away of that king from the appes
of the frat century apostle finds come
thing of O parallel in the proud sslenc
of the dying Lorenzo, tuning his back
unshriven, Against the stern command o
the Florentine apostle, 'Lsstly You mus
give back their liberties to the people o
Florence"
| Another of the many CHANGING inter
ests of Florence is found in the Churcl
of Santa Maria Noyella, where it Ia bes
to go early in your stay, 30 that tim
is left for many later visits. Here on
submits unquestioningly to the leadin
of Ruskin, In his Mornings In Florence,
Exscting though he Is, 1t pays to yiei
pourseh up to this severe school master
You must walk at once the length Q
the church to the apse. Should you ss
dying baby, or long lost broths
from America on the way, stop neithe
for rescue or recognition, but hasten O
Ghirloudsjo's frescoes of the birth of th
Virgin, and her meeting with Elizabeth
Here, no doubt, many of rs are ignorar
enough to find much beauty and grac
of expression and figure. After studyin
these carefully again pursue your sbsorbe
flight, needless, as before, of all claim
social or philanthropic, to the little FIRE
Goes of Giotto, down in the smaller cloi
ter behind the Ridolf tomb. Sequenc,
are good In art as in whist. You folio
directly from the ornate and "goldsmithy
work of Ghirloudajo to the simplicity