The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1893-04-27
Ne,p York World

, Nev YOrh World
A mans view Of woman's dress Is al
ways interesting, for the reason that
he either knows nothing or a great deal
about the subject,
The superintendent of the dressmak'
ing department OF a local dry goods
house 10 one Of the best authorities on
costumes and Costuming in the city,
His knowledge Of dress goods, dress
makers, dress making, dress buying
and dressing Is quite remarkable. It is
no trouble for him to pick out the
stufIs and styles that the women folks
will buy. His working force includes
an army Of about 200 sewers, cutters,
filters, designers and fnishers, and he
refuses to admit that any city in the
world can supply better or more intelli-
gent labor than New York city.
Naturally this gentleman has a mans
way OF doing things. For instance,
when he shows o dress there Is alwaysa
woman in II. More than that, he con-
siders the wearer picture, and 10 such,
deserving proper framing. The figure
understands this, and without waiting
TO be instructed, makes her appearance
wearing a hat to match, sometimes car
rying parasol. With an evening toilet
she even takes time to dress her hair
little.
He insists that on every occasion the
figure and the costume shall be in har-
mony. II the dress is not her style, an
other girl is called up. When wraps
are being bought or sold the auperin-
tendent requires the proper accessories
viz: suitable skirt and becoming
bonnet
The other afternoon he was kind
enough to exhibit one OF the new Loie
Fuller dresses. Instead OF an armtul OF
silk.lined crepon, tall, beautiful girl
walked into the Office. She was pic
ture. She had been called out OF the
workroom, and she looked very like u
famous belle, residing in West Thirty
fifth street.
The dress, light, custard.colored Gre
pom, measured fifteen yards around the
bottom. It was lined with coral pink
BLK and made with French bodice, OF
indescribable grace, lace and silk. The
skirt Just cleared the floor all round
and fell in those soft folds that artists
have been painting since the days OF
Penelope, She wore big yellow straw
hat, with long, gauzy scarf twisted
round her throat and wild violets on the
brim. The girl, with her beautiful black
hair, her lovely grayish-blaCk eyes, her
slim, graceful figure and her street man
ners, would, in that yellow hat and
frock, have made'a sensation in draw
ing-room. She was wholly unconscious
OF her charm, and the superintendent,
with the indifference OF trade, talked,
dress.
He had her walk up and down the
room TO show the way the fulness re-
Bponded to her movements and the nice
lines about the hips, hitherto thrown
into prominence by tight drapery. 1t
was the sort OF dress that gives the
poetry and womanly grace to the
wearer, that the average man puts on
the woman Of his dreams, and that the
college boy sees in fancy when he thinks
about his mother The superintendent
called II an ideal house dress, and 80 1t
was.
Another dress came in for measure
ments. 1t was made Of black occurring
cloth, embellished with green velvet
ombre, he called it-that shaded from
blue grass 10 pale gosling, according to
the way the light struck 1t,
The wool was forty inches wide and
there we're eight yards in II; six yards
OF velvet were used in the trimmings,
and fifteen yards Of silk in the lining.
II was learned from this gentleman
that neither crinoline nor canvass is
used OF likely to BIO used this season.
Some Of the skirts are faced at the bot
tom with 'cross-bar," but the piece is
rarely six inches wide. Buttons, hooks,
eyes and eyelets are put on nearly all
dresses. While he would not offer o
suggestion. he thought that women Of
moderate means made great mistake
In not preparing one good dress to sew
eral Of ordinary character. His obser-
walton had taught him that the wealthy
paid less proportionately for their
dresses than the poorer class. A GER
tain class OF buyers are content to have
one pretty outfit for general wear, while
theless independent and leds economical
woman thinks she must have two, ono
for every day and ono for Sunday. Not
being able to afford two good suits she
finds herself with nothing to wear and
her money all gone.
The gentleman hits the nail on the
head in this opinion. Rainy weather
dresses can always be picked up or
patched, and when the sun shines 1t Is
good style and good dressing to make
not necessarily agay, but a good appear
ance.
The Spring Girl.
III A -.