New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-02-05
NEW SILKS AND SATTNS.
IMP0RIATIONS F


The extreme cold weather In France has undoubtedly
delayed the importation OF Silks Many Of the Lyons
novelties which expected long ago are SUI
delayed by and ice. This Is especially true Of
the goods that arrive by way OF Iiavre season Of
brilliant color Is assured by the importers books which
show samples Of the goods which have been ordersd
from the great Lyons manufacturers
satins OF summer weight and surah In glace finish
comprise a large proportion of the seasons importa
tons. The glace surahs similar In quality
10 the satin mervefeux OF several years ago. FOulS
de sole is silk OF tafeta weave with high
glace surface. Princess san,, which is also largely
imported, is light weight satin with only
moderate lustre. There many damask stripes ana
goods set with tiny figures but the odfashioned satn
brocades are seldom seen In the mpUtations OF dress
silks The elegant silks are those figured N
dentele effects on a shaded ground Thus an opnehe
pink satin shading into pale Nile SILK Will be COM
pletely covered with creamwhte tracery IN Inc
pattern OF the old Venetian gupurc or OF the more
modern point D'AlencOn. Or pearl satin toneo
into acar mauye will be seen through tie black
meshes of an old Louis XIV guipure. Many Of these
dentele effects imported IN widths OF yaro ana
Il quarter for the Empire gowns which fasnion an
tcipates will be received with more favor In me
summer than they have found In the WINTER AT
least fashionable dressmakers will do all In their
power to encourage the Empire fashions ana overcome
the objections which have been urged against them.
A great many OF these wide silks finished Win
border on one SIDE which will be used at the oottom
OF the the whole breadth then gives the erect
OF wide lace nOunce spread over u shaded grouno.
Wide silks are also shown In Empire brocades' WHICH
consist OF set conventional figures, usually showing
flower leaf and stem scattered sparingly over ricn
satin grounds. Laurel leaves, palms, OF
daisies conyentionazed In straight classic FORM ngure
satlns In this Empire fashion. Most OF these saun
grounds are either ombre changeable-that is' tney
always include colors. the ombre goods TINS season
being invariably toned from soft or brilliant color
through all the successive tints into another Thus
pale lilac shaded into BILE dor wheat Color rose
color is shaded into cream; fuchsa red, the Color
OF the petals Of the fuchsia Is shaded into
pale lavender, a gray Saxon blue Is toned INTO
brilliant red coral. Many Of these silks are not only
changeabe In color, but the alover pattern Is aso
shaded from one tone into another
There are many silks which are imprime, or printeo
with pattern rather than damasked. These printed
effects are rather more elegant this season, being
found In the richest goods. There are also many
handsome silks in which brocaded ana printed nsurs
are both introduced. In such case the sauh u
often brocaded with waving stripe IN Dayaoerc eI'
feet and Is printed with small set figures like dashes
or other inconspcuous devices There are satins ana
pout dc soes printed with chine figures. In what are
called nacre" effects by French manufacturers Iness
6cures show two or three cOlors In different lights.
but are quite different from the irioesceht s'ks %
last season. Cashmere and india colors aDouhu IN
trimming silks. Many French SILKS are printeu VII"
palm leaves and other Oriental patterns colored IN
conventional French fashion. Among silks wnicn WIZ
make dainty trimmings, In conjunction with cnahse'
able SATIN are merveilleux In shaded effect ngures
with tiny stars in gold applique satin. Vitreux Is
heavy, glossy satin figured with little set hgures !"
plain silk, which appear to be sunk In the sat'h sur
face and display three or four colors on pack Ut
dark marine ground. This Will be especaliy cn"in''
Ing in combination with black satin. giving the
NJ demanded In gArnlture Oh
black dresses this season.
There are q great many silks In changeabie ompFs
or other fancy effects, which are striped Win hea"S
lines of satin or crossed In quade eject Tue cross
bar Is rather than the stripe. when was IN
PRODUCED last season. These quadr1lle effects aio
fin Introduced In some manner In the vast majority I"
the new French goods. Thus surah SILK OF sacs
satin surface Is figured with palm leaves In dark green
on changeable hellotr0pe ground, and Is
by lines Of Jet black There many surans III seiss
effect having heavily twilled ground, brocaaed WIZ
tiny seed dots and cross barred with satin lines ID
some light color, usually yellow or bright green.
A charming cream.whitc satin Is striped win oanas
OF color either pale lilac watergreen or dencate
maize color, figured with tiny heurettes &c fEmprs
in dainty contrasting hue. These Will make preuv
gowns for youthful figures trimmed WIN aou"uanos
OF ruies and cascades. still another SILK Is shadeo
I'm stripes from pale rOsecOlor to SKY Dlue' ana u
tc,,red with flowers a Ia PompadOur and crossineo
In fourinch quadrilles by lines of black satin.
Ouadrille effects will doubt be especially popular
In street Thus, there are changeabie suans
in such coors as dark green and blue red and golden
brown or chestnut and green, the brighter Color ap
pealing as secondary to the darker shade 'h u's
surface OF the goods Green and dahln. and beige
seal are two combinations Of color which are especially
stylish and desirable. The somewhat crude colors
found in scotch clan plaids especially the blue ana
green's are reproduced in surahs with quaor1ile
lines in black, white or brilliant color There are
also many genuine Scotch paids shown In these
silks which, 1t Is anticipated, will be as popular next
summer as they were last blouse waists ana ior
Frightening travelling costumes OF India silk.
large part Of the silk importations for the comino
summer are made up OF gauzes. TDese are usually
black striped with satin or crossed by quadrhe nhes
OF satin in two brilliant contrasting coiors' ine's
are also GAUGES bIocaded in black and then cross
barred in colors. The favorite SHADES III cro9'oar
are pale.rose and yellow helOtrope and yellow or
dahlia and NiIegreen There are also shaded gnuzes
I'm darxb and dark green, the stripes OF the Two
colors being toned into each other IN "more eneos
I'm the same way. Changeable gnuzes repeat !"
dark tones OF color Of the effects OF changeaoe
satln and are also brocaded ana cross-barred WIN
color These gauzes differ from the od-fashionea
s,,k grenadines I'm the fact that they q finer.
sheerer goods. They also found In solid black Ia
great variety Of patterns brocaded crss'Darred ana
striped ard It IS In plain black and In black grounds
Frightened by quadie effects In color that they WIZ
be most popular Black grenadines which arc
heavier and more durable goods than the eaufess
promise to remain popular They are found In pain
black. IT. n variety OF AIDED effects and In black
frightened by color Black gauzes will undoubtedly
be chosen for afternoon dresses made In Empire enecs
over close.tttng gowns Of black satin For this pu's
pose they are imported figured In the Empire designs
already described for satins
MORE silks and fine tafietas are shown In Inc
seasons lmportations. lie tahe'as are nsu'eu :"
No, and designs ana Will MAKE
o,.rn,,c alderman GOWNS one pf the novelties
This season Is morc ray onnane. This Is changeabls
MORE in which color on the surface
OF the goods In the watcred wave which forms inc
stripe There are also moire silks In very nne
wave, the wave OF the SILK forming hairstnpo III
the goods Among the most desirable silk goods ars
rho domestic surahs of standard TWILL which are shown
A.. Alaer and cnlors printed with the small deetgne