The record-union., 1893-12-16

NIaGara-scenes of Grandeur and
gubIimity.
Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright 1881
LONDON, Nov. so, 1898.
There is much about Norwegian
scenery, scenes and incidents worth re-
lating discursively, which is likely to
prove helpful to succeeding travellers,
in their experiences, or entertaining to
readers who can only travel in this stern
and mighty land of the north by the not
unpleasant journeyings of fancy with
kindly tempered writers for their willing
guides.
There are no roadside shrines, save of
natures exclusive handiwork, in all
Norway. Indeed one travelling along the
grand stone roadways almost feels long
ing for those mute connecting links OF
human and spiritual interest. Groups of
peasants kneeling before cross or ef1igy,
or beside consecrated fountain, are here
never seen. The only objects by the way
side to possibly pique curiosity of inter-
est are upright stone posts on which are
CuJ pd1nI6O Gig IIldl1C 1IS uIO ANOl
even an antiquarian sentiment can be
coniured by these. Their significance is
very great however to the landed pro-
prietors, for they relate with nice eXacti-
tude the number of meters each is COM
PEELED to keep IN perfect repair in sum-
mer and wholly clear of drift snow and
other distractions in winter. All law is
enforced with absolute impartiality in
Norway, and that is why the country has
the finest roads in the world and has also
been transformed, in scarcely more than
generation of time, from a nation OF
drinkers and almost sodden drunkards,
with all accompanying evils, to land OF
sobrlety, cleanliness, amplitude and con-
tent.
Jordbaert or strawberries almost con-
stitute a national dish in Norway. In
deed, / have often thought that these
matchless berries,
"a the sweeter they are wee,''
are providential compensation and pro-
vision to the folk of the high latitudes.
have found them in my wanderings
growing wild in greatest luxurlance in
high attitudes, in Norway, the Highlands
of Scotland and the Shetland and Orkney
Islands, even in dreary Labrador, and in
Manitoba, where, in the early days, l saw
miles of the then trackless prairies Grim
son in hue from the then ripening fruit.
They are so universal and plentiful in
their wild state that there is no necessity
for their cultivation. The markets OF
Bergen, SteVanger and Throndhjem are
fairly odorous with this delicious fruit.
At every station, at every home and in
every hotel in Norway they are securable
morning, noon and night, and at all places
rich cream is served with them. Where
ever travellers may go, upon busy or un-
frequented highways, or even along lone
mountain paths, they are everywhere for
the picking; and if one is too lazy to help
himself to natures largess, blue-eyed,
fiaXen-haired children are everywhere at
hand with tempting baskets, which are
yours for the most trit1ing return in coin
which you are willing to bestow. In
deed, so universal is this custom of straw
berry giving and selling that a perfect
duplication of Norwegian childhood in
summer would be formed, in painting or
sculpture, by the figure of ragged,
smiling-faced, yellow-headed urchin
standing at the roadside with upheld
basket of jOrdbaert in tiny, horny hand,
and hopeful, eXpectant look in kindly
eyes of blue.
The tiny Norwegian graveyards beside
the mountain churches will have a
peculiar interest to every traveller in and
out of the way districts. They have a
certain primnesS, deSolation and yet wild
and uncouth seeming of natures kindly
prodigality of every living thing in green
about them that give them a strange and
impressive character. The churches
themselves are curious little boxes, and
possess a peculiar air of austerity and
solemnity, as if built with the sole pur-
pose Of contrasting the infantiIe effort of
man with the majestic evidence of the
Creators power everywhere surrounding
them. The churchyard, which is also the
graveyard, usually surrounds the entire
church, and is often hlled or richly bor-
dered with mournful frs and evergreens.
The numberless high, rounded and
prettily mounds can scarcely be
seen for the wild maze of evergreens,
plants and flowers. Beside nearly all the
graves, or family burial-plots-a peculi-
arity l have not noticed in any other
country-are benches or rustic wooden
settees, to which the mourners come and
muse among the memories of the
loved ones at rest beneath. There are
few headstones. Instead there are crosses
of blackened wood, inLensifying the SOL
emn suggestiveness of the place. The
Morse are not given to etfusive inscrip-
tIons, and the transverse beam OF each
black cross usually has but two lines.
The first begins with J0d (born). and the
second with tod (died). There is only oc-
casionally added a verse Of Scripture,