Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1893-09-28
WHAT MEN WILL WEAR
characteristics of Clothing for the Male Se>
This Autumn and Winter.

''iio AuUu|llIl ana winter
NEW YORK, Sept. 15.-Hats and shoes
make the well-dressed man. The suit
OF clothes is a minor matter. But Won
could not get an American to believe It
That is why Max ORell, Austin Dobson
and the rest of them laugh at us.
Men" said Beau Brumme.I, should
dress as they Enthusiastically.
Logically, we should begin with hats.
For this autumn and winter the black
derby Will remain good form, except
when the dress suit calls for the inevi
table chimney pot. But black derby
should have narrow curved brim for 4
stout face, while the man with a narrow,
holloW-cheeked physiognomy may wear
the lower crowned, flat-brimmed vari-
ETY.. These two kinds of derbies are
alone permissible now to the man who
aims at good form. The very low
crowned affairs and the steel gray color
may not be correctly worn. In other
hues the dark brown is allowable
III the morning or even after luncheon.
"A word about other shapes. There is
a popular style of soft SLOUGH hat known
to the trade as creased in the crown"
1t is not bad form in the daytime, but
the proper color is dark gray and the
ribbon or band ought to be black and
pretty wide. Very few men look well
in the hat unless they are tall and slen-
der. If you have weakness for such
hats and are not blessed with inches but
possess fair amount OF weight wear the
black slouch-but not at night.
The silk hat appears unchanged, only
the inside band should be of very dark
red leather, and your initials ought not
tn OBJ thxai 1,fn Ahnvn oil
fear to pay all you can afford for good
hat. Wear cheap clothes if you must,
but cheap hatnever.
A PRoPos DIES Bottles.
Shoes next Remember that if your
head and your feet are well clothed you
will always look like a gentleman, more
orless.
Black again is the safe color. Russet
shoes and a black hat will not do. The
craze for russell seems to survive the
summer and if YOU have it badly stick
to the dark gray SLOUGH hat. Black
shoes for day wear should not be point
ed, although a tendency to slope toward
the toe is not bad form. The soles
wide. Tell the shoemaker that you do
not wish the soles "beveled." Do not
stuff the laces of your boots into the tops.
They should hang down in a "boW'
knot so as to be visible below the trou
sers Never have your boots BACKED
in the morning. Never have d gllsten-
ing polish put upon them. The deplor-
able custom of caking shoe leather with
black composition and reducing the
same to a vanished surface has made
us a nation of smooty breech legs.
gentleman's shoes are not "shlned."
They are BACKED. Buttons seem to be
cassed as effeminate. The secret OF
good appearance in foot wear is that the
toes should be free. sprlngy step
means an elegant walk.
"'LINEN, MY LORD! ~
A gentleman should wear clean linen
and plenty thereof, to be sure, but he
should not unduly display it. Acres of
shirt bosom and yards of collar and
waistband are permissible only III lack
eys. Even the dress suit is no excuse
for this otfense We are all familiar
with the '.iokes" based upon the sim
ilaritv between guests and walters at
certain social functions.
White is the safest color for linen, but
If seems that cOlored shirts are to be the
vogue for morning wear this autumn.
A yerv thin blue or black line running
perpendicularlv is correct tor the snlrt,
and a white turn down collar Is sane
toned Herewith. The genuine neglige
has not the detachable collar and wrist
bands, however lBy the way, never
say "cutf" if you can avoid the word
A gentleman should never allow plnk: TO
annear in his clothes, always excepting
thn boutoniere. Never wear stand
mn, collar with anything but a Whlte
linen shirt. Never wear negllge at
nioht. Have only natural tlnts IN your
shirts if YOU must run to color, me
only allowable stud is a very small golo
bend. To wear jewels with neShSe
Sucking of linen prompts the re-
mark that many young men nave
weakness for prettiness III shirts 10 oe
in rood form they should also wear
skirts. as only women may wear pfe''y
things.
BEAUTY AND STRENGTH. :.
Now we come to underwear aliu :.
must be severely simple. NO sleeE Nc
with delicatelv stitched eus,ns+ civ
pretty collarets. Silk, II you inu''' ''''
but no lace. ~, host form but
vow p,'1 hlue or stripped yellow VIII De
much worm
PHILOSOPHY OF RIBBONS.
N,anrsaems the problem OF pro-
hams to American men. Henry Ia
bouchere once said that he never n,re
~, Enoi;sbmen who knew why ne Wo,e
a necktie and it is highly yom lmp pny bet
ter Oscar Wilde's assertion 1hat wy. the
fellow who puts around his nesA W..
s.,noda.nn tie'' deserves matter VI "
snubbing seems to have had some p''e
'io Rlach and white will be the season sons
s sSnsi but and pink x care
the Ascot after luncheon niche 1cr e ens
excuse that tie ever hao r ior The
is the h morning M;,I FOG probably 81 be very
Srevaen although % is n iep merit eR
IS ossdapablity to every variety a9 o d distne
attire and the unden, raon,s al linen nc The
ton it lends nc u TO attained = by wearing
best Ies.,'s collar with it, and to y Ths