New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-11

PIP. viii, 316. Macmillan Co.
| This is charming record Of travel in the days
when railroads were comparatively few, when
the diligence was still in use, and when the pro-
| fcssional manager of tourist caravans was less
| Ubiquitous than he is now. so, as Mrs. John
Addngton SymOn6ls says In her graceful preface,
these experiences Of the past have value OF
their own" They depict with Photographic
minntcness of detail, III the graphic, unprcmcdi-
tated manner Of gifted woman, places and
scenes that are no longer the same. Comparing
these chapters Of adventure in Spain, Switzcr-
land Italy, Germany Hungary, Turkey, Syria
and Egypt, with experiences Of the present day.
one may take accurate measure OF the changes
which have been wrought even in the most con-
servative countries within the last three dec
AIDES Even the Syrian camels must now e
familiar with railroads. though their sedatenrss
seemed almost on the point of being overcome IN
those days when tho whistle of the engine sounded
fer the first time in their hearing. The railway
was failure for goods traffic. remarks our trav-
cer the camel-drivers not seeing the fun OF
coming all the way from the interior 10 lonely
station, and losing the grand amusement OF few
DAYS in SMYRNA So they declined going at all
unless they went all the way and used to tramp
on and on by the side of the rails, in almost I'M
beasts and their drivers looking supcrciliously and
without astonishmcnt at the fussy, pulling, rush
Ing thing it passed by them. And again Mt
a later visit" Smyrna looked very much Ike an
old friend. and every ono there seemed pleased 10
see us again. the long strings OF cames appeared
TO have been tramplng on continuously ever since
our last visit-such noble ong-haired leasta, meek
hut oil stnate, nothing stopped or astonish"d them
though they did seem sometimes to prick Their ears
at a railway whistle
A picturesque reference to the pigeons OF 1T.
Mark recalls the whole story Of the Austrian oc-
cupaton Of Italy. when were at Venice
the Austrans were the grievance OF the place. ana
the pigeons of ST. Mark thoIy birds used to have
the Italian colors tied to their tails ana coz"
futternc down at the feet Of the White Coat
or Bianchi iwashcrwomcn they were called, who
dared not touch them or revenge tho insult.' Miss
North had the good trait of a successful traveller
in that she INDUCED the eccentric humor of others.
For example, once at Damascus while she wa
sketching an old man sat down near her and gave
her handful of myrtle berries and insisted on her
eating them They tasted like apples favored
with eau de Cologne II left off for a moment
he nudged my elbow, and pointed first at his
basket of berries and then at my mouth, so ! went
on to obige him. and when got up 70 go away he
poured the rest into my pocket and smiled hcnevo
ently." But she also capable Of bit OF
satire, point illustrated by her comment on the
scene among the ruins at Memphis. We rode
about the wonderful palm forest, she wrote, all
strewn with statues and bits Of polished granite
one largo one of Ramcscs III lying fiat on its nose.
which is Of the same shape as that at Aboo Sihbcl
perfectly beautiful, but tric too long, pcrhap',
and with an absurd look Of the Prince Of Walc:
about it. Mr. Spers said it was intended to he
looked at from below, that If We were TO stick
His ROYAL IIighncss on the top Of an exceedingly
high pedestal lie might perhaps look beautiful and
majestic too. Who knows"
Anglomana seems not 70 be a disease peculiar
to Americans. nor anything of novelty. We
had most unwhocsOine fog the Lower
Danube. and one morning We passed another
steamer sticking in the mud. and barely visl-
bic through the thick atmosphere but out Of
Of the cabin windows my father recognized
the head of Mr. Darby Grifiths NJ. p. and
began 10 understand what he had seen in the
papers at Pesth about how the Anglomaniacs
there had been fetine Milford Derby. The real
man. he knew. at home at the time. Now
the riddle was solved. II had been Darby Crit
iths who he'd been taken for Prime Minister"
There are glimpses OF others. whose names are
still familiar For instance. Miss North met
the traveller. w. G.. Palgrave. at Cairo.
| only remember one of our Ow-lodgers, Mr..
Palgrave. the Arabian traveller, who was ex-
tremcly agreeable and amusing, full Of good
talk and having an extraordinary knowledge Of
languages, especially those Of the East. He
waiting for orders TO 90 and find Cameron
in Abyssinia, and hoped the King might be
jolly going there after him. HID had tried
many kinds of life having been multi. and
oSna m so ~e to a aa had hn ha ny
at Beyroot and in Indian converts, and he was
then paying court to a lady at Alexandria,
was told with the object OF showing by matr-
mony that he was no longer Jesuit priest
or bound TO any particular religion, and ! be-
licvc he was at that time honest in saying he
had none His father had originally been a
Jew, but had taken the name OF his Christian
wife-a lady celebrated for her beauty, and an
hcress. lie was extremely kind to my father,
who was Very unwcll while at Cairo, and treated
him with more attention and skill than any
doctor we could have found there; he was Il
universal genius
At Athens she found Finlay. the historian of
Greece, and was reminded of the romance in his
life.
Every day after the first was sunny we had
the most charming Of guides in Mr.. Fnay, who
had spent the chief part OF his long life in Greece,
and had written there the history OF the middle
ages. One night we had tea In his house, when
his Armenian wife sang to us some Turkish songs,
about and sang in the adjoining one-as she said
the sight Of us made her shy, Her history is told
in About's famous book, La Greece Contempt
rane, how Mr.. Finay, when young sailor, had
fallen in love with her sister at Varna II think.
and when his ship was about 10 sail made her
promise to have herself packed in box, and he
put on board unknown to her family; but at the
last moment her courage failed her, and this sis
ter volunteered to take her place. The poor
young man, though greatly disguised at the
change, felt he was bound to marry her. and
not send her hack TO her angry parents, and they
seemed 10 have got very well together after
all But she could never endure 10 60 with him to
England. She said the moths would get into her
carpets il she left them, and those carpets were
the pride Of her heart.
Princess Eulalics visit has awakened 80 much |