New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-05-07
THE WIDOW'S DRESS.
THESE ARE BECOMING STYLES.

rh so,aro otiouette OF mourning which swathed
the widow In Grape for the first SIX moh'hs - oo"-
siderably relaxed The Grape veil Is worn over 'he
face for ONLY few days then Ii Is thrown Dack anu
small mask veil OF black net covers the lace There
Is decided tendency the lighter French styles oil
Mourning which sometimes look almost frivolous 10
orr eyes accustomed the severer etiquette OF Eng
lisb fashions I'm this matter
The fayorite material for elaborate wear Is sui
Henrietta cloth that lustreless dead Dlack WHICH u
,he only black that should be used by person Ill
mourning whether In trimmings. In gloves or III any
other minuae OF the toilet. costume recently m'ue
for a young widow will serve as an example Oh ap-
nronrate and elegant attire. The gown was OF me
Henrietta CLOTH trimmed with band Of Grape apou'
eighteen inches deep. The skirt htted smoo'hy anu
dared but slightly at the foot III the most lasiohipic
shane The bodice was made with high. full sleeves,
and n folded Empire belt OF Grape fastened at the
loft side Turnover cuffs and turneddown collar
NJ finest white organdie, completed by inch hens,
were worn from the beginning OF the mourning These
are now preferred in the deepest mourning 10 coar
and cuffs OF black. TO this gown an Empire coat vi
tbe material OF the gown, with yoke ana pounah'
sleeves of Grape Is added when an extra wrap Is re-
ou,red and the simple widows hat, with Its white
rucbe In front and It's long veil pinned over 'he @ch'
e worn ON all occasions. The extremely long ven
l. no longer considered In the best TASTE ana ven
OF moderate length Is preferred.
A second gown OF this outfit, which was intended
for general wear, was OF piack crePo" III"
,rmurc silk The pretty skirt OF crepon was finished
with three spaced folds on the bottom ABOUT 'inec
,pches wide and a piping band OF the armure SIX.
The full bodice was made with high yoke oil crepe
lis,e laid In fine pcats. and deep bera-ihe '"hc
| ~ tho arnure silk The full balloon puts OF The
sleeves were Of the crepon while the lower part was
| NJ the armure silk, and wide folded belt anu Il
folded collar OF the silk completed the bodice ~
| little sheLlke ruching OF white Grape was worh a'
tho throat Another dress for afternoon wear was VI
dne crepe de chine, made with simple hens ana worn
with cuffs and collars Of white Organde finished WIN
| inch hens The chief characteristic OF THIS oresS
was its SOFT full bodice.
With the exception Of the use Of crepe DE- ch'he'
which seems exceptionally appropriate Tor summer
mourning DRESS there Is tendency to s'iner b'!rs
| I'm mourning fabrics In all other goous' D"
| passementeres and many other trimmings "re "''u
| today IN mourning. which were formerly 'ons''''e'
| entirely Innppropriae The correct period 1or
ridow,s monrninc os every one knows, Is TWO years
| After the first twelve months she may hgh'eh her
4 mourniuc without mourning the ccnsurc oil severe
critics and during this period II must DE cosi"erc"
I'm the worst taste for her 10 appear III p'ou ~
public entertainment. Many WIDOWS eA,, d o,tnrIu
| period OF mourning beyond this tlnie n" ., Inny
women often retain the habit oil mouri'e 90 v',n
AS they live. The change from first 10 hc,oi o" ,
| ing Is slight To De hardly pere"pDifI, 'nG
| that white collars and Guns ana ar'nn,o ,rr ,h
| other elaborate materials are worn "o'" INV
The width of band for mourning stationery Mhl,h
Is now considered In the best taste Is apo. an ,
| OF an inch. Moderation In display VI WI. M, 49,
certainly In the best taste and hall incn oo',cLir" T
n Touch OF theatrical display about tpn S"''" "
| a person Of fine kensibcs. . ,,,,.
| small cose-iting bonnet IN black j. ceru, n
the best choice for widows wear Ihontl IT, ~
singularly inappropriate aud better suited ior s"'a
occasions.