The morning call., 1893-01-29
ROBERT T. HOAGLER.

Robert /. H0agler is a clerk in a down
town dry-goOds house. His income is linn
tied to the amount Of his salary, and his
salary is meagerness Itself, when you come
to talk OF dressing we'll. A matter 81 about
$50 a month tits; possibly SIS, but not more
than that. The CALL man to whom Mr.
Hoager afforded an interview did not press
as TO the exact amount of the salary, but
other young men who occupy similar posi-
tons get less than the sums named.
There is no man in the city who looks
neaier on the street than Nh Hoagler and
his faultless attire Is the constant envy OF
men whose incomes are far greater.
How do 1 do it?" lie said to THE CALL
man. well, the TRUTHS | hardly know my
self ! don't have so many clothes as some
men, but those / have / care for. How?
III try to tell you, but there are so many
little points that are important and yet one
is so apt 10 forget them that hardly think
can tell yon everything.
Wen begin with the trousers because
they get out of shape quickest. | make a
pair Of trousers last long as the rest of
the suit AMI | make suit last me nearly
a whole year.
Il have four suits every three years. but
instead Of getting them one at a time. | buy
them all together | 90 TO n ready ade
establishment and invariably get good re-
uUEkitD Df Dut luE iDNf SUITS az buCt DuY
good clothes Of their kind, ana with but
little attention they fit me as well as though
tailor made.
"But about the trousers. ! have board
just the right length, with spring catches on
each end. When / take off my trousers
brush them very lightly with loose brush
Of soft bristes. then fold them so that the
crease is in the right place, and place them on
the board between tie springs. The springs
you know, are TO stretch the trousers just a
little. let them stretch for half an hour
or so, then loosen the catches and lay the
trousers fat on the board, one leg on the
other, and place a board on top. And on
the top bOnTd pile bundle OF papers or
books or something heavy enough. TO give
just the right pressure.
II wear suit just one week at a time,
never more, never less. / treat the trousers
as | have told you every night before | go
TO bed, and at the end Of week 1 stretch
them a little longer and then lay them away
on the board. ] have four boards, one for
trousers OF every suit.
''Ihey are very simple things. | made
them myself aud am also the inventor.
They are covered first with calico or flannel
or something to bear off the hardness, and
then the springs are attached.
81 had the springs made at a very slight
expense They are like big lemOn-squeezers,
that is all.
'Then | have board to sponge nv
an iron. With these things l manage to
keep not only the trousers but all my gar
ments free from spots and stains. don't
wait TIL the whole garment is soied.
watch closely and when the first spot a :
pears on the spongng board goes that
garment.
Vests I iron and press once a week
regularly; coats once in two weeks, whe Their
they need spODging or not.
mo, i Bever hang garment; always
fold 1t and lay it away in the bureau or on
SHELF. When coats are hung up long they
pull ont OF shape by their own weight; and
the same Is true Of vests, though Of course
| TO much less extent.
"OvercOats? l have two of them. wear
them month alternately. | sponge them
i often and press them ct least once q month.
| When lay an 0yercoat away fold IL but
| once. just as do an undercoat, inside out,
with the sleeves hanging straight inside.
| Dress suitsp have no dress suit; that
| is beyond my income. | would not care for
a cheap one, and a good one | cannot Afford
| | take care TO avoid accepting invitations
where Prince Albert will not answer all
| the requirements.
Now, there's a whole lot to be said
| about wearing clothes in such way as TO
keep them looking well and prevent their
wearing out.
In the first place. don't knock your
| heels together when you walk. That makes
| frlnges on your trousers. IL took me a
good while TO break myself OF this habit.
BE careful where you sit down, and be
| sure to pull up the trousers over the knees
! when yoa do sit In this way you prevent
the baggy knees.
And then don't sit down too much II
you care for the shape and bang OF your
trousers, and don't cross the legs when you
do sit Nothing makes bags in the knees
20 much as crossing the legs.
Then, sit up straight. or stand straight