The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-11-19
GASTRONOMY IN EUROPE.
DECADENCE or COOKERY AND OF THE
OLD-1IME FAMILY SERTINE
English simplicity or Taste Has Lowered
the Foreian Cuisines-Favorite Dishes OF
oynItte--yeuIce's Famous ~ oteI Dantrlt.

~ ao,na ~, ilII,noiros ,r,nda aaiynaura
tho in,portntion Of foreign stoves and methods,
have mot uetorinIlv raised III, standard 81
aysrog. prItish cnols no. in tho ,,nst fayor-
AHA INDIGNANT have thsy dos.rvod rnore thnn
n hroy.t of lila ne1iorri,v In coun.
trv WHARF tbo innuenca of u,ornrch,--avan nm
acknowlejpad-is supren,.lv tvrannicaI ov.r
taste and fa sbion the ev,rene irdi,foronce NJ
the Queen and royal family to thn rleasure.
NJ tbe tnble ia in soma ,n.nsuro rosn,naihls for
this mediocrity. English peuple cat: tbey
have exc,llent raw material hut tho nrenor,-
tIon If II ia NOT done ron o,noye 40 in
w" W ~ 10 NV "" "'' 10 ia
neiGhborlnS countries nor IS cookery
lone as uneen yictorin ornrcsses bor.slf
a.tiscaS r,i,h norrif,,n anr ,Inin sontoh
dishes her royal subjects will stultify the am
hilton and talonts of budding Brilat sayarIns
partially for oatmeal soup and raw ham.
luxury is the crisp bread baked rurposey for
wines ar. of the most choice quality. and asa
conssauenc, GOOD wine is the rulo and not the
exception on English dinner tables.
The dearth OF famous cooks is, howeyera
general evil not confined to Great Britain
alone The old traditions OF tho Industrious
knlsns OF the SAUCEPAN seem i"s. ana IN r .ne
10" INSTANCES Where 'ne se''iees Vi 'i'o0
class French cook can be secured, as soon as
,a into haoInavnd monotonx and mil
,apses INTO naehneyea nohotv u, anu UNI Th.
chief fault of tho m odern French cook is that
he Goas not seon, to rscngni1o sunicientlv the
he uoeS not seem W ecosni%e euih'i'h''' '''o
immense capabilities of butchers meat when
cleverly manipulated. and he prefers to do
'e'op MS taIehts IN tne dressing OIL chpohs'
game. and truflles At the best clubs and res
taurants the menus offer a deplorable same-
-, -. =, ,.ir. d. .a,,.o,-..
ness anu want Oh IhaGlhs'. Ion. .e sauees ato
that it Is often difficult to distinguish thcm
from each other. As to the middle class
meaning OF a sauce.
In Paris it is alleged that foreigners are res
the fashionabie restaursnts; in England it il
said that the Imported foreign chefs will not
ne a that er to eve
change their delicate and artfully mixed in
for the erus Of eady b6 ass
sauces. Which are necessary to the palate OF a
Hs nh h as the INIT ne
th3Srity; and is never lnterfered with. =, ~.
anu Gastronomic connoisseurs is fast disap-J
rearing. PEOPLE feed themselves: they do nov
guests Of appreciatins delicecy and Perfection;
me me- Vnnn sirIs of rente and nobIe birth
were early Initiated into the mysteries Of the
AHA Ipter on TO direcf and control their cordons
c t@n: tn they could tell unerrngIy what was
were faulty, and when butter was either aD-
semt or too cons picuous: they knew il artin-
@ asd G was
ents, and could reprirn and the delinquent.
department now than formerly; every Country
is made to Yield its deiicacies and luxuries to
cooks no draw Saiares as large as tTose Of Sec
retary of legation ana double them by their
They take
the r.a oh Of tho ma ority and it is those who
miss the E9od Old extinct race OF Fneent ssr
retainers who took the interests Of The family
to heart has almost departed ever, in France.
now the GOOD Old creatures Who aged and died
in the homes where they first came from their
viliageY Their savings were ever at the dis
nosaI OF their masters il misfortune overlook
them; they performed miracles OF economy in
tabie; they refused to marry il marriage was
to sever The connection with their adopted
almost filial care in sickness and death. Many
literary men have known the comfort OF this
SY MS pnee Mho w ssf on
the lordly manor of Yauy and who followed
lodging Nestor EoGueplan's "bonne" was a
legendary parsonage; he said. referring to
heart; tn. old serSant is the resular army
Many have been tho examples of admirable
M shd sno oTs Of ee
ana Harry inyedan has not drawn entirely on
his Imagination in his touching story OF
MamZeIle Vertu." The rough heroines OF tho
Kitchen who attracted a few coins from stock
ing or teauot and slipped them in the hands Of
a schoolboy in a scrape were generally excel-
lent cooks; the tables OF the small bourgeois.
the shopkeeper and ili.paid employees were
spread With Wanda which would satisfy the
most fastidious epicurean for their prepara-
ton WAS always faultless These haIcyon days
WERE however. not kno II in England. for tra-
dition tells us that the plain boiled potato and
ment Of the underdone steak or roast N luton:
but In France, Germany. and Italy something
OF the intu once OF these by gone d avs remains.
and the ordinary menus compare favorably
with the most pretentious ones OF England.
At the German court the m calls are served
"a la Francaise." tho Empress alone profess
ing n partially for British roast meat ana for
pastry The Grand Duchess OF Baden Baden
Is Justly credited with having the best table in
the empire, and she makes her coffee herself
Of sweden Is a large eater: she has meat three
"a ln lv cd Inv