Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1893-12-22

The other is that almost every corsage has
basque tails or positions in the back, and
not a few have draped skirts in apron fash
ion. AS to the basque frills, points or coat
tails and positions, they are certainly far
prettier than the short waists, and draped
skirts are more graceful than plain ones.
but l do not think the long stomacher
fronts have one redeeming point to recon-
mend them to women. They are very stiff
and therefore ungraceful, and they do not
make a stout woman look thinner nor
give a slender n a better figure. The
darts that are generally placed in a dress
front are omitted or dissimulated understif
garniture of some kind.
saw recently a very handsome dinner
gown of oyster white peau de sole, made
with a rose plating of the same overhung
with a plated frill of pale blue crepe de
chine, which fell from beneath a line of
scallops bound with silver castle braid and
headed by small blue flowers worked in
natural colors. The corsage had Il frilled
basque round the back and a stiff stom-
acher in front. This was cut out in seal
lops and bound with braid, and that part
cut away was filled in with blue crepe. The
stomacher wa seamless and altogether de-
%structive of grace or ease of movement, and
yet it was much admired.
Others of this style have the whole front
of the corsage covered with braiding, en-
broidery or beading. Some of this is done
over lace, which gives it a still heavier
look, as the lace is frilled, and the trim
ming, whatever it is, is sewn over it. Some
of them are cut out in front in pompadour
style. with high Medici collars, though
Elizabethan rufus would be more %appropri-
ate. But then nothing ever is appropriate
in fashion. It just is, and that is all there
is about it, and we do not expect the uni
ties.
The basques are finished off in the back
as one prefers. There is a long position to
one, which is bordered with a narrow pat
tern in fine soutache, and this pattern ex-
tends up the two side body seams of the
waist. In front it is finished by a double
row of buttons or by q vest inset if pre-
ferred. Another has a Louis XIV coat,
shaped with pockets on the fronts, and the
opening in the back is turned up and faced
with some contrasting color, which is also
carried out on the rest of the design. The
front of this model had 4 cutaway, with
white satin embroidered vest. Another has
all of the. seams made SO that at the waist
line they are full enough to double under,
forming plaits, and which set up somewhat
after the manner of a sprung collar. This
latter style is very becoming to slender
waists.
All this has a significance, and means
that the reign of 1880 is broken. and it Will
not be many months before the distinguish
ing features of this fashion will be relegat-
ed to the past. Dressmakers are all delving
into history to find something that can be
labeled new. There was a morning or tea
gown that recalled this fact to me as it
was shown. The draped front and plain
fur bordered skirt and the gigot sleeves
were all quite natural, but there was a
quaint sleeveless garment that is to be
slipped on over it. This is like those we
have seen pictured. I think they called
them doublets in old days, but it made a