Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1893-05-02
cHILDRRN,s GOWNS.
The Newest styles.

The new gowns for little children copy
the full bouffsnt slesves, wide bretelles
and broad revers effects of ladies' gowns.
The skirts, however, remain qaite simple,
though there is decided tendency to in
troauce little trimming above the wide
hem in the shape of row of insertion in
dresses of cotton or white lawn, or a ruff
fe in dresses of ohsllis or soft wool. The
narrow ruff1s which is used in ladies'
dresses at the foot of the gown and again
at the knee is repeated in misses gowns,
and gives relief to the plain wool skirt,
which is apt to hang awkwardly on q
growing girl in her "teens."
Mothers a'e already beginning to take
an interest In commencement gowns for
the graduation exercises to take place In
June. While the most elaborate materi-
ais, like spangled grapes, chiffons over
silk, and even brocsdes are used In some
fashionable boarding schools, it is pleasant
to record that such elaborate gowns are
not considered in good taste, and are pro-
hibited by the best schools. Many of these
schools insist on a drees of simple muslin,
which is altogether the most girlish and
most suitable for the occasion, and pre-
vents any invidious distinction in dress
among pupils in varying conditions as to
wealth. Fer the same reason the profuse
display of floral gifts to the graduates has
been quite generally done away with, or
else these tokens are not allowed to bs
presented in public, put are merely dis
played on the platform for presentation in
private. One of the dsiptiest and most
popular materials for simple graduation
t. 4 tfaI lin Ga 10 fnnnd In
pure white and cream white. 1t was gem
orally made over silk last season; but this
is not the case this season, when 1t Ia usu-
ally made over lining of Victoria lawn.
The skirt is a simple gathered skirt, and Is
trimmed with a nine Inch ruffis or clus-
ter of ruff1es at the bottom, or with three
insertions of ecru guipure lace, separated
by wide spaces. TIE round waist has q
full back and front, but is drawn down
over fitted lining, and there is wide
Empire sash composed of two folds of
wide moire or white satin ribbon around
the waist. This sash ia tied in a short
bow and ends at the left eide. Sometimes
a pointed Marie belt of white sstin ribbon
about an inch wide, and used in successive
rows, may take the place of the sash. The
sleeves of the graduates gowns are gene
rally made with q large balloon puff at the
top aud close at the lower part. = short
bretells of sheer point d'esprit lace, or
sometimes of guipare, covers the upper
part of the sleeve, and gives "smar"
breadth of shoulder to the gown. Gowns
of sheer India laws or nsinsook, which are
preferred by some mothers. because they
lsunder 30 well, are trimmed with the
heavy embroideries in open patterns,
which are so effectively used this season.
White dreeses for little ones of six or
eight years are made with round waist
aud straight skirt, which is quite frequent
ly tucked above the hem or finished with
a row of insertion. These dresses, even
for children of three or four, are consid-
erably shorter than they have been, the
French fashions in dress obtaining more
favor In this country this season than the
more picturesque Kate Greenaway styles
of English makers. The new skirts are
often breadth fuller than those of last
season, though in the case of wool dresses
there is very little psrcepdble difference.
Heavy goods of cotton, like Marseilles and
pique, sgsin find favor; and there are
heavy striped oottons in pale blue and
white, or rcse and white, or navy and
white, with plain skirts, full sailor blouses
and the familiar broad COLLAR, which opens
to display q fat shirt of white pique.
For little girls from six to ten the familiar
Mother Hubbard effects are generally su.
perseded by what are called Empire gowns.
These are open at the throat in a point,
back and front, to display guimpe. They
have full, short sleeves, and the fullnes of
the skirt of the little gown is gathered In
| two curved points, coming from under the
| arms and extending upward, back and
front. A little dress of this kind is made
of ginghsm in rose and pale lettuce plaid,
cross-bsrred with a medley of dark, rich
colors in a most picturesque effect. Lines
of white embroidery cover the points of
gathering which hold the fullness. There
| Is 8 stylish little ruffis around the pointed
| front, and the puffed sleeves are extremely
| full and bouffant.
Organdie muslins and Swiss muslius,
dotted with pinhesd dots and printed with
flowers in color. are made up into most
| picturesque 1880 gowns for girls in their
| teens. They bsve trimmings and wide
bretelles and bsrthas of guipure, or of
sheer Oriental or of point d'esprit lace.
1t is considered in the lest taste to make
these gowns for young girls over lining
| of heavy Victoria lawn rather than one of
| silk. Satin and velvet ribbons are used In
profusion on all children's dresses. and are
\ frequently run through inch wide bead
ings; or satin ribbon is laid under wide in
sertions of guipure lace. Tiny little TO.
settes composed of satin OF velvet ribbon,
/ uOt ofct Ouc hHo = hal1 VI iNO lHCuce
| across, are used down the front and In va
| rious other places as q finish to the dainty
| gowns of the season.
| The favorite wrap for sman girls Is 6
REFER jacket of tan or navy blue wool
Their older sisters usually wear q some
what longer jacket of covert coating
reaching over the hips, with wide lsppet
seams and q turned over "step" collar
half faced with dark suede colored velve
in harmony with the color of the cloth.
The sailor hat promises to be as popula
as ever. Already these hats are worn Ii
dark blue and golden brown and othe
shades of amour brsids. Sometimes tn
crown of dark blue sailor hat Is brigh
red; or a band of blue Is inserted In tn
brim of dark brown straw In sdditio
to the plain band of ribbon, which is a.
ways the most popular trimming, the ne,
sailor hats are quite often trimmed wit
rosettes or quills, or with wings placed o
each side and projecting toward the from
, White wings are used on dark blue sailor
and crimson wings on brown straws. Th
more elaborate ht q for school girls an
! misses are round or peaked crowned fst
, of Milan, chip or lsghorn. trimmed Wit
large bows of ribbon and clusters Of sin
pie field flowers like buttercups, dandel
: ons or daisies. Yellow flowers are NOR
often used than any other on brown q
well as dark blue straw. The hat usuall
contrasts with the costume, but occasion
, ally, where one of the old new colors lik
] ! the petunia shades is chosen for the child