Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-08-05
THE DIAMOND TRADE.
An Importer Talks About Its Tricks
and AnlOyances.

THE DIAMOND TRADE.
and An1oyances.
From the New York Times.
"A large number Of the diamonds found
IN the trade" said member of one of the
leading diamond firms OF this city, "come
from the Cape mines at the southern END
or Africa There are seven or eight of
tnese mines. the largest being the Kimber-
W winch covers some twenty acres Of land.
In the last sixteen years these mines have
yielded largely, many fine stones having
been found. But the Kimberly stones-with
the exception of the celebrated Peter
Rhodes stone. which weighed $50 carats In
the rough-are not always Of the finest
quality. Though large they get them as
high as 300 carats). many of them are only
worth cutting into smaller stones.
India once did. but no longer does. enter
into trade considerations as a great dIa-
mond producing country. The Brazilian
diamond. though small, is often of a finer
quality than the African or Indian stone
In Brazil the diamond is usually found in
the sandy beds of rivers. while the Cape
stones are dug out at a depth of from 800 to
Duo feet below the surface earth. The Bra
lillian stones are found In a kind of soft,
soapy muck called blue earth. Some are
In weight they will average from two TO
ten carats, comparatively few stones above
nfteen carats being found. This is in the
rough. Cutting reduces them nearly half
their natural size.
The carat that speak Of is one peculiar
70 diamonds. rubies. sapphires and opals
Troy weight.
Most Of the Cape stones are sent to Lon
9on. where they are reshipped 10 Amster-
dam and Antwerp. the great cutting cities
Diamonds are also cut as well in Maiden
Lane as in Amsterdam. In cutting dla-
monds there is general rule that one
thlro OF the stone should be above the cir
die and two-thirds below it. This propor-
ton is sometimes sacrificed in order to
AVOID imperfection In a stone. such as
black spots and feathers. and at least one
half Of the stones are more or less imper-
feet.
Again. the size and shape OF a stone in
the rough VIII determine whether II shall be
mond.
You may have noticed the many little
technically called facets. A single-cut dia-
mond has eighteen facets and a full-cut
stone has ffty-eight facets. distributed
ton l have just mentioned. A small stone
Will usually have only the single cut Of
eighteen sides. A full-cut diamond IL called
a brilliant, and this term is Incorrectly ap-
monds
The third or rose-cut is given to stones
oAS wv eiIidu lnln Tor either of
the other cuts. The shape OF the rose-cut
aiamond Is peculiar. inasmuch as the stone
~ Isl nau on the bottom and faceted on top,
nmu you VIII understand how small the
1Sse-cut stones are when tell you that A.
oiten takes several hundred of them to
make a carat weight. They are very use
iu.' however. In hlling in corners. etc.
apart from the consideration I have
noted, the diamond cutter is guided by his
own ot oiseretion and taste in modelling
II Is the old creation Is simple enough.
diamond illustrated. The workman mers.
rups one rough diamond against the
done by holding the cut stone down aseinss
wheel which revolves at an extremeiy
rapid rate. In applying the stone TO the
or the diamond will be caught on sons
rough point and be ruined in less than the
oradieional Jiny. As to the time taken to
work fast enough to keep I half q do wl,,
pomsners busy, and good polisher will
ponsh about twenty carats a week
tinued the speaker, there is every imasir
able tint. but the principal trade coiors
are the STANDARD white. the blush tint. the
the most valuable is not always the most
brilliant. The blush tint Is a favorite and
much sought after. The yellow stone /.
taste for dark brown, bright yellow or
canary. as 1t is called, and other natural
colors.
market abroad cannot comprehend the
aifnculties and perplexities that harass a
diamond buyer. He has to be Constantly
persons holding the stock of diamonds in
Europe are among the shrewdest mer-
chants to be found anywhere and they NOT
only work in collision, but play one Gus
toner against another to obtain higher
prices. They are wonderfully given 10
romancing, and their statements. like their
goods. are only to be taken after investi-
CATION.
THE diamond merchants abroad do M,
grade their goods. but. when a purchaser
bad and Indifferent stones is Shown to him
parcel The grading, pairing and selecting
is done for the American market after the
stones have reached our shore.
BY this means purchaser is compelled
10 buy many goods that he would not were
he allowed the privilege OF selection. some
diamonds thus purchased are actually sold
mere at less than they cost abroad.
1T Is conceded fact that the American
consumers OF precious stones are the most
critical of any that merchants have TO
cater to. and European holders of diamonds
appreciate this fact. In this country but
three grades OF diamonds are really mar
ketable. the first being rare and exceptional
gems, the second first-water goods and the
third must be above the average quality
thing to do in enhancing the value of dia-
monds, by proclatming day IN favor
OF one particular style of cutting or of
color, and again changing a setting in the
post or honor to those which had been
previously rejected. The experts OF ten
years ago would be sadly puzzled today
to make selection OF first-class diamonds
Tor the American market. Indeed, the
trade is a most diffcult one TO cater to
full Of annoyances and hazards and re-
curing special training and unnaggtng
n Mi Il Nr~r \