New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-04
MEMORIES OF BERLIN.
THE PALACE OF PRINCE BISMARCK in THE
wILIELMSTRASSE.


Berlin May ! g.
There are. in and about Berlin. three points
preeminent in interest to the visitor who cares for
the great for the great scenes ana SITES OIL
modern German life 1t is matter Of opinion whlch
should stand first. The three are the heichS-
kanzLr's Palace in the Wilhelmstrassc, the En-
peror Williams Palace in the Inter den Llhdph'
and the Mausoleum in Charlottenburs where the
Emperor lies buried Perhaps It was because our
hotel was nearest the Wilhenistrasse that loon
H. there first perhaps because, when al 'hihss
are duly considered, the genius ana character OF
Prince Bismarck WERE after all, the prim" factors
first in putting Prussia at the head oil Germany
and second in the unitication OF GERMANY.
In the mere external appearance OF NO. 76 In
the Wilhelmstrasse khere is nothing to awe the
spectator. nor even TO fix his attention low
two-storied house. narrow, succeed, pale gray in
color devoid of any architectural merit or of any
thing like grandeur, in i'll repair and needing
even paint-such is the building which was the
birthplace of the German Umpire. Here 1t was
that from 1862 to 1873 Prince Bismarck lived
Il was bis home and it Twas the Foreign once
Arst OF Prussia. then of Germany. Here 1t was
that as Prime Minister to the King of Prussia, ne
conducted that memorable conflict with the
Prussian Parliament. lasting from 1862 TO lsoo'
during which, without Budget and without a
majority, he carried ON the Government ana ouli'
IN the army which at Koniggratz was to shatter
in the same hour the military supremacy ana the
political supremacy of Austria. Here it was that
the foreign policy of Prussia was developed from
1866 to 1870: that the struggle with France was
planned: that the secret treaties with the South
German States were framed The Empire pro-
claimed al Versailles in 1911 not only founded
here. but Organized here.
They show YOU in the Old Palace in the Lust
aarten huge picture of the scene at Nersalll's'
painted by Werner. and presented to the Emperor
by the German Princes II is not good picture
but il does give You, suppose, notion OF the
snectacle in the great Gacrc dcs Gaces; and
snectace is what seems to interest the world more
than the real causes and beginnings OF great
events II has this merit also that tho most
conspicuous figure in the canvas is private
soldier: one of the Emperor's Guards. standing.
amid the clittcring company of Princes ana
Ministers and Generals at the foot of the dalS a.
a kind of sentry Probably neither the Emperor
nor the painter meant it-neithcr of them was
Tho man TO have symbOlical intentions, or to
deal in allegory. But this huge soldier, IN his
stih attitude does in fact stand there Tor tue
German army: for the millions Of his unknown
comrades who fought in 1870 and 1871 Tor
Kaiser and Fatherland He and they, too as
we'll as the great Emperor and great Chancellor
were among the founders of the great German
Empire a task for the complete dong OF winch
no one or two men, however great, suihc'd' OF
ever could suffice. Prince Bismarck of course
IA in the nicturc. but YOU haze TO look for him,
and YOU have TO look for Moitke. II matters
little II is not in Versailles but in the Wilhelm
strasse that the real work was done.
I'm Versailles itself you will have some trouble
TO make out exactly where and how TINS scene
was transacted: where the German Throne was
set I'D. where the Emperor stood, where frlhca
Bismarck stood. once venturcd to ask one OF
the amiabe French guides who show you over
the Palace We were considerable company
as the fashion is and l waited till l found an
opportunity to put my question privately, and
az CONSIDERABLY rs / knew how. But it was too
much. The guide vanished and the Frenchman
rlared out in his place; full Of patriotic anguish
and anger. I" Je men sais rien, was all the
answer he vouchsafed.
If the Germans had, don't say more patriot
ism, but little more patriotic respect Tor 'ne
sacred places in their recent history 1t would
do them no harm. The demolition of the Dom
kirche where the funeral service for the Emperor
William was held would hardly have been posi-
BILE had the Domkirche been a French Cathedral
and William French Emperor; would only
have been possible when hatred 10 kings had
crown stronger than love of France; a state OF
in a former letter of this act of sacrilcge, but
il has still to be added that the Cathedral, which
the loyal Baedeker calls nsignifcant-and so 1t
was Observation-Disclosures the sarcophagus
Of the Great Elector, and the burial vaults OF
the ROYAL family What has happened to all these
know not.
Equally significant Of German Indifference in such
matters. or almost as significant, is the neglect
of their other historical building in the Will
helmstrasse. and the air OF shabbiness and de-
cav which now overspreads it. These are not
the DAYS when the official world Of Berlin, or
the men who cluster and cringe about the young
Enperor, are likely 10 take much thought of
Prince Bismarck, or to do him any kind OF
homage or 10 express their respect for the scene
Of his greatest triumphs by so much little
fresh plaster or much-needed mending of masonry
Or perchance, is the neglect meant as tribute
TO the old Chancellor. and testimony TO the
shabbiness and incapacity of the present Chan
cellor's administration of the political legacy be-
oueathed to him? The Chancellor's house looks
all the poorer because the street in which II
stands is. through great part OF It's length, a
street of palaces which have some pretensiOns to
outside spendor. and Of important Ministries
The British Embassy with its Corinthan pl-
lasters and golden gate, is not far of, and nearer
still are mansions not less magnificent Nor is
the inside of either Of Prince Bismarcks marked
by much gorgf<Isness Of decoration. or OF fnrnl-
ture; or by anything but fitness for its purpose
Prince Bismarck left No 76 in 1873, and moved
into No u, No. &c still remaining the Foreign
Office, or part of the Foreign Office. The new
home of the Chancellor was more considerable
building than the old; central pavilion stand
ing we'll back from the street. to which two
wings stretch forward the whole forming court
ward Of respectable area with twice the front
age on the street Of the other house. IL was
here that the Congress Of Berlin was held The
removal took place only the week before. Be
hind extends large garden. bounded by high
brick wall, with here and there gate through
which the people Of Berlin used TO watch pa
tiently for a glimpse of their hero pacing up
and down the walks ] saw such groups on my
las4 ,-isif 20 Berlin / aaM none now. The