Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1893-12-07

iihAi uoHeu quallS IN Jne ShIne way
that you would fowl for boiling;
place them side by side in a stcwpan
with half a pound streaked salt pork
cut in thin slices, two or three stalks
OF celery and some parsley; cover with
weak broth or water and simmer close
| ly covered for three-quarterS OF an
hour. Dish the quail in circle plslc-
ing them breasts outward; fill the CEN
ter with canned peas heated, seasoned
and drained Skim the fat from the
broth, of which there should not be
more than a pint, thicken and color
and send to table in boat Braized
| In the same way, but stuffed with
stone olives, mushrooms or trufiles, they
are called Ia perigneur.
Perhaps never, unless you are
hunter yourself, will you know the
gastronomical delights of quails la
cendre / first partook of them on u
California ranch, cooked and served by
the brown-eyed hunter lad who shot
them.
Dress and draw the birds; put the
livers inside; roll them in thin slices
of fat salt pork and then in well but
tered white paper; cook in hot wood
after bonfire during your childhood;
serve them on toast with a tureen of
good brown gravy.
Partridges should have the breasts
larded and be baked (if they cannot be
roasted) in quick oven for twenty to
twenty-five minutes. Dish up on dry
toast, garnish with crosses and pass
tart jelly or spiced plums with them.
| The drippings In the pan may be thick
ened and seasoned for brown sauce,
| or you can serve them with celery
sauce or on puree of celery. Either
of the two latter is especially nice with
boiled partridges.
The famous canvasbacls ducks of
Baltimore come from Havre de Grace
and owe their superior excellence and
flavor to the wild celery on which they
have fed. They are not in their prime
until the middle of December, by
which time they should weigh from six
to six and half pounds the pair The
mode of procedure in cooking canvas
back, redheads or mallards is the same:
Pick, singe and draw the birds, put
pinch of salt inside and roast rare. An
overdone canvasback Is no better than
the commonest wild duck. 1t Is a COM
mon fault of the American cook to kill
game with kindness, that is with cook
ing.
The ingenious manner in which the
"baited mallards" from the smaller
lakes of Minnesota and Wisconsin are
fed renders them of such superior ex,
cellence that they may be substituted
for canvasback almost without fear of
detection. Corn Is spread daily on the
banks of the lakes and day after day
the birds return to partake of this
mysteriously-sent mama, until, at last,
like human epicures, they fall prey
to their love of good living, being cap
tured when fat enough. To be sure
that they have not hung too long, or
been side-tracked on the way east, see
that their eyes are bright and the webs
of the feet soft.
Orange Is the very epicurean sauce
which even the common people receive
gladly, when served with this bird
Skim off every bit of fat from the
gravy in the pan after baking; thicker
with great spoonful of flour; dilute
with a pint of broth and squeeze in
the juice of two oranges adding the
shredded yellow rind previously boiled
for ten minutes to extract the bitter
3 flavor.
Salmi of Partridges.-T econom-
, ical housekeeper should understand
the mysteries of a salad, for there Is
no nicer way of serving the remains of
yesterdays birds. For a company din
ner it will be well to roast the birds
the day before expressly for this
purpose, in order to use only the
choice parts, but the manner of
making is the same. Cut the meat
from the birds in the neatest possible
pieces and lay it aside while you boil
the bones, two small onions,a bunch of
herbs and pinch of cayenne, skim the
fat from this broth, thiclSen and strain.
Simmer in two dozen mushrooms for
ten minutes, lay in the meat and let it
get hot through; lay each piece Of
meat on a small, diamond shaped
crouton and pour the sauce over all.
For very swell dinner there is moth
ing nicer than a garnishing la Mont
0tds. Proceed as above In every partic-
ular except that you do not add mush-
rooms to the sauce. After you have
dishcd the croutons and fillets Of
partridge, pour over them garnish
made as follows: Cut fine a pint of
mushrooms; add two ounces of beef's
tongue, two of truffies and two of
white chicken meat, all cooked and cut
in dice; season with salt, pepper and
nutmeg. Now add two ounces of but
ter and gill Of veal gravy and heat
by tossing over the fire in a saucepan
without allowing it to boil. Pour over
the dish and salmi, turn the sauce over
all.
Filiets of cooked game heated for a
moment on a broiler- after being
dlpped in melted butter are delicious
served on small squares Of fried mush.
And now before ending this gossip on
game-ending 1t, not because the sub
ject is exhausted, but because the pa
thence OF my readers may be, let me
just hint OF a game salad. A portion
of cold pama too small 10 ,,..