Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1893-07-20

The fist th.l., AZ he done in the making
az 4 ~tn rIt and ht the waist It il
ns.1t..r matter but requires order enough
tc ALLOW the dressmakcr to Keep track of all
her belongings. When ready to begin work.
let the young drcssuakcr take a large piece
Of stlu cartridge paper and start from the
right straight edge with her measurement.
The person TO be lifted stands with her
hands on her hips, and the tapelne Is
passed around the body close under the
arms and over the bust and brought to the
back and the figures taken. The length Of
the back IA taken, the front from the top OF
the shoulder To the waist line and to the
throat. Then under the arms, and finally
around the waist and wherever the tape /,
outlined on the diagram
When the measurements Rre set down, the
dressmakcr takes her pencil and rule and
marks tho first line four inches from the
edge ot the paper and brings II down IN a
santng line to ne-half inch OF tile edge at
the waist line She then divides the bust line
IN three, giving one-thir,l It's length to the
back and two-thlrtis to the front and side
front making dots where the measure
comes, The front, from throat to waist
iine, j. then measured and the neck shaped
out from the high itne TO tho low one which
gives Il about the right form, which can be
cut out more If needed when tried on
The basque shape IS the foundation Of all
dressmakiug, but ~ just now the waists are
unusually short it can be cut off at the
waist line or "a little below it, When the
lady q lie fitted i stout, the lines on the
diagram will ~how how 10 add to the width
without destroying the symmetry.
The darts form a very important part in
tDn a M. Ia, ,
set rule that can apply to them The waist
Is cut IN the proportion marked, and II the
bust is slender the darts should not be
taken deep, II full or very full. they can be
made deeper according y the need, and the
front may he sl1nted, il 50 desired, 50 as to
throw added fullueas where it + required
Nor can the length ot the darts be decided
until the figure OF the lady Is seen Some
need high seams some low ones, but the
average isRboUt five inches above the waist
line, taperinE 10 a point, and about one inch
cut away in the center. This can only be
determined in trying on
When all the pieces belongingtoa a waist
eight II all. though they are cut in pairs
which are exactly ahke-have been outlined
with dots according to the measures, they
can be marked out with pencil and then
cut. The lining should be then laid hat
and the cartridge paper diagram laid over It
and The pattern marked on the lining, which
must be cut on the straight. Gut, allowing
pne fun inch al around except ia front for
the seams In front allow TWO inches for
turning in.
The dress material should be laid fiat and
cut out exactly the same size as the lining.
The darts should not be cut out until the
lining has been tried on, though their posi-
tions can be marked.
The lining, If not silk, should be cambric
or silesia, or, for heavy dresses, Of drilling.
The cru,.Nl-e thread must De on an even
line with the waist line
In cutting both lining and outside one
should practice placing the diagram so as
to cut TO the best advantage, as this is very
important, and in cutting the different parts
1t Is well TO cut them by twos, the cloth be
ing properly folded, so that you may not
get two pieces for the same side. which often
happens with beginners.
When the waist is cut out, baste the lin
ing together. beginning all seams at the
top, and then try it on, with the seams on
the outside Pin the fronts together, leav-
ing the edges to stand outward and then
get the size right around the waist, and
after that pin the darts and seams to con
form absolutely with the figure. Do not
try to mold the figure TO the dress
When sure that the waist is, so to call it,
nodded to the body, press back the front
edges SO that the pinholes will strain lit
tile. see that the arm sizes and neck are COM
fortable and that it does not bind anywhere
or wrinkle, and then slip off the waist and
pull the seams very little, enough to show
just where the seams should be, now that
the lining is fitted. As soon as this is done
rip apart the lining and cut away all super
fluous edges, though if the measurements
are carefully taken there should be scarce
ly anything to cut away. The lining is then
ready to be basted to the material.
OLIVE HARPER