davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
JUST SHOPPING TOUR.
WHAT KAT BIB SEEN AT TBS AFELIERS OF
THB M0DISTES
Rough Wsav@ hr Outdoor Wear and Shimmoring
Daindss for Ny Lady Of me TsaeuPs-A Nil
iiary Iackst-Mys,ariss Of the Season.
TCopvright 1921


The season az Lennon is 80 its height
aud autumn festivities amid the golden
rod and ivy are blessed with perfect
weather and keen appreciation. New
port, whose season closes earlier, had
its last casino ball on the 11th, but
hosts Of people sill linger, 10th 20 leave
the somber glory Of the autumn sea and
the warm brown cliffs that bask In the
lessening sunshine. Saratoga Is half
deserted for the politicians who will
come later TuedO, like LenOX, Is In
It's glory, but none Of its glOries have l
envied this eventiul day.
have been shopping 10 New York.
Talk not Of the delights Of the au-
tumnal equinox in fields and woods by
the resOunding sea- To a woman what
Joy Is so keen as that of revellng again
in the old familiar streets, OF goods
whose sheen Is a benson TO weary
eyes, Of seeing the express carts piled
high with trunks Of the returning wan
derers, Of breathing again the fragrance
OF the roses on TWenty-third street and
hearing agalR the crack Of the coach
mans whip, OF penetrating again the
modiste's sanCtumS, where one is tain
20 speak In rev -entIal whispers before
the deity OF Mode, of seeing and seeing
and seeing, and buying not at all? Or
q truth there is nothing Ike IL.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
Frocks for smnlI Glrls.

There is great variety both In the
form and material of children's dresses
this season, the frocks prepared for
smalngirls usually following the quaint
detail Of those designed for their elders.
The reign of simplicity is over and the
tiny gowns break out in frills and fur
bellows OF ribbon aid lace. Baby rib
bon is a iavorite trimming, and miles
of 1t are worked up with deXtrouS I'm
gers into ruchings of tiny loops for
borders to the short skirts and low-cut
bodiceS that may be worn with
or without 2 guimpe below. a
pretty frock for little girl Is
made of fancy wooden, with a round
skirt mounted fat in front and with
plaits at the back, and trimmed with
two thick braids up the middle. The
round-waisted bodice is fulled TO vel
vet YOKE and belted with a folded velvet
girdle, and over this is worn velvet
coat with faring basque and eDaulets,
aud broad, round collar, edged every
where with the braid. Another new
little gown Is OF plain cloth, the round
skirt bordered with velvet put on with
a row of serpentine paSSementerie. The
waist is of velvet fulla1 into fitted
corselet OF the cloth, plated crosswise
and edged with the sassementerie.
Full sleeves OF cloth have deep cuffs Of
velvet, and are surmOunted with a
round, gathered epaulet Of cloth with
the paSsementerIe border.
For the little girl a pretty school
dress may be made, according to our
model, of green cloth with two rows Of
vellowish ecru satin ribbon around the
skirt. The cape is lined with ecru
satin, and has smart reyers, also OF
satin, and the waist has satin girdle,
land deep cuffs with pulled sleevs Of
cloth. For her next younger sister a
pretty frock may be made in Empire
fashion, with a deep square yoke Of
white silk muslin, to which the cash
mere skirt is plated beneath a folded
velvet belt. These plaits are separated
by lengthwise strips OF velvet ribbon,
and q bow OF velvet is tied at the side.
The sleeves are a succession OF alter
nate puffs OF cashmere and velvet,
finishing 10 a tight puff at the wrist.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24

prospering, that that troublesome silver
lined cloud has lifted itself and Is slow
w dispensing? That the faces OF bus-
bands and fathers and brothers have
ceased 70 look anxious?
Why, when we stop to enunerate our
reasons for being glad, we find that we
are in need OF more fingers upon each
hand.
But what Is the gay throng made up
Of? Mostly, smart fall costumes, with
a suggestion Of the tailor, and Of the
fur below as we'll. and made sufficiently
warm By the addition OF revers, hip ruff
fes and shoulder r0fies.
II may come 20 pass that the coat, In
its forte Of protecting and warm keep
ing, will be outdone By these NUMEROUS
appendsges that fntter and fall about
NJ For what need have We Of other
shoulder covering when the big, fall
rufls falls there2 And how can chest
grow cold beneath brotslle and rover
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
Friends, Not Lovers.

Walter Beasant has been answering
tho old question, "Why cannot men and
women become friends?" His first an
swer is that they eau; that they do;
that thew have become friends; then he
cites Nine. du Deffand and Horace
WalpoIe. Mile Lespnasse and D'Alem-
bert, but adds Nine. du Defand was
past fifty, and blind, when she made a
friend of Horace Walpole. The friend
shin of men was necessary to her; it
was what survived Of her love making.
81 am not so sure" be continues,
THAT friendship is possible between
two young people of opposite sex. One
knows perfectly we'll what will be said
cannot two people become friends
without the tie being broken or spoiled
by the Intervention Of that other pas
sion? Well, you see, 1t is always pres
cit as a possibility; as disturbing
element"
He speaks Of the colleges in America
where the young men and women sit on
the same benches TO study or listen to
lectures, and pass the same examina-
tions, but have not succeeded In Great
ing an atmosphere Of friendship or
Plstonic love. There are" he argues,
$50 many obstacles interposed by
society, by convention, even by nature,
to this kind Of friendship. The young
man and the young woman who want
to be friends cannot; they must not
be seen too much together; they
must not travel together; they cannot
enjoy perfect freedom Of conversation
because there are many subjects quite
proper for either alone, but tacitly for
hidden between them both.
"a young man shall tud, II you ike
in a woman much older than himself, a
charmingN kind, and sympathetic
friend-it is the very best kind OF a
friend that a young man can hnd; or an
old man may find woman much young
er than himself to keep alive in him the
waning fire of courage and self-reliAnce.
But that young man should ind any
Young woman who would become TO him
AN equal comrade as another man might
be, entering into his views and requlr-
ing him also to enter into her own views
on equal terms, that kind OF equal al.
lance and friendship do not ever eX-
pect to hud between the youth and the
maiden"
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24

that spread so protectingly over? Be-
sides, the coat Is sure to interfere with
all OF our big sleeve arrangement
That is why the espea nd the dainty
wrap and mantle will be sopopular this
winter. They are more y Gliding and Ne
more gently over our eccentrlciIies and
yagarles.
The new garment Is either compound
or complex-never simple. Il takes
some time 70 aDalyze; but is worth the
trouble. The first thing that you will
note will be the long effect OF the
front In contrast to the short effect OF
the back. 1t is popularity Of most
OF the new espes. A beauty in black
velvet has two short, full RIFLES thar
do not reach even to the waist line,
and that are gathered on plain yoke.
A high collar, slanting of into long
points that run down the front, covers
the yoke completely. Between the
collar and the cape a long rever OF
white embroidery runs completely
around, meeting In a point in front.
There a white knot catches 1t, then the
embroidered band is carried down over
TO the right side aud fastened. Thence
two widening streamers OF black velvet
fall almost to the feet. Streamers,
capes aud collar are all edged with fur.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
the % checks Of tan Nd white 10 dark

the pin checks Of tan and white TO dark
blue.
Another example from the smart
walking collection: A skirt OF moder-
ate fulluess and the color Of cafe au
lait, this trimmed with shirred ruffles
Of the modlSh dark brown; a Wrinkled
belt also of the darker broWn-and
here the mOdiste is at fault, for no
human being was yet born with waist
line TO be so emphasized and insisted
upOn-the bodice light again and plait-
ed in soft wrinkles 10 the belt; collar
cite Of the dark set some little distance
below the stiff high collar; huge shout
der, pulled sleeves and the thing is
done, and not badly. Both these walk
Ing dresses are simple and may be made
by dressmakers of moderate skill from
cloth Of moderate cost, though in the
original examples quite expensive.
I think it is tolerably evident that
everything goes In plaits this year
knife plaits, accordion plaits, gO-as-you-
please Dlaits. Here are other things
that will go:
Drained and irogged military great
coats.
Plush, In moderation or otherwise,
. for wraps
Buttercup yellow for evening wear,
alone or with white.
White for nearly all ages.
Lustered, figured and shot silks.
Embroidery everywhere.
Black silk striped with narrow lines
of pink; pink silk striped with narrow
lines Of anything under heaven.
Irvine COLOR" spotted with pale
blue.
Cream brocade for elderly ladies'
show dresses; turquoise blue.
Low coils of hair we'll down in the
neck, perhaps anticipating the hated
dreaded chignon.
Lingerie Of silk, always silk, bewild-
eringly gay.
For there is nothing, after all, that a
woman likes as well as TO know that
she is well clad from the foundation.
ELLEN OSBORN.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
THEWOMANOF FASHION
SOME RICH GARMENTS THAT TIE FALL
WILL BRING FORTH.
Will the Coat Disappear From Oar MidsE?-ln-
crsasing Popularity Of the Mantle Cape and
Wrap-SOms Of the Very Latest Described.
Copprioht, 1898.

Lovely autumn has fairly dawned.
Never was sky bluer, never air>more
exhilarating, never sun shone more bril-
liantly, never was fashions thronR Ia
happier and more Dllthes0me mood.
On clear days Broadway is literally
thronged with gay promenaders and
busy shoppers. How they come and go
In their bright attire and with their
lunches Of fall 1owersl My flying trip
down the crowded avenue was suddenly
interrupted by "How do you do?''
and a traveller In distant lands stood
before me- "l am just back from Lon
don and Paris" he said, land, you may
take my word for II, there's no place
like New York. I've been walking
Broadway all morning and can't get
enough OF il. Our women know how to
dress, I assure you" l smiled at his
enthusiasm, and accepted the compll-
ment ia behalf OF my countrywomen.
And why shouldn't we be glad and gayY
Isn't this the loveliest season OF the
year, save, pereAps. the early springs
Isn't 1t delightful to walk out In the
prettiest fall costume you ever had In
your life, with great bunch OF
roses in your hand, making such
picture that even the
women smile at you in pleased
fashion as you pass? Isn't the city
esh-looklnR after the dry aud faded
look you have seen the country wear
for so long? Isn't the touch OF chill 10
the air the greatest incentive TO brisk
wotLInoo non't vou coma hack with a
glow on your cheeks and a glow at your
heart? Then, too, don't you rejoice
that our beloved country Is once more
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
Won Dressed for rive Minutes.

II was queer young woman that the
shop girls are talking OF In one OF the
Brooklyn shopping stores. She was
neatly but not richly dressed, and she
came with two or three other young
women. She looked over the most ele-
CANT dresses that were on sale, and In
sisted upon seeing the most expensive
evening dress" of the lot. She parti-
cularly wanted it cut as low in the bo-
dice as any that are worn. The only
garment of the kind that was in stock
was gorgeous light purple silk, exqus-
itely trimmed with velvet ribbon II was
somewhat too large, and the saleswoman
insisted that ID was no use to try 1t on;
but the Young girl was equally determ-
ned TO see how ii looked on her. At
last she was taken to what is called the
Evening Room, with its dozens OF cleo
trio lights and its walls of plate mirror
glass, and there she put on the splendid
5000 robe and called In the saIesweman
and the wO an who had come with her.
The dress was too loose and too long,
but the girl had pretty neck and
ShapeIy arms, and evidently admired
them as much as she did the gown,
while she turned around and around and
scrutinized her appearance in the mir
rors. Finally she regretted that the
dress could not be altered within few
hours, though she had been so informed
before she had put it on, and said she
was sorry, but she would have to look
elsewhere. As she was leaving the store
one of the saleswomen heard her say:
"There, now l am satisfied to be mar
ried tomorrow and bury myself in the
country. 1t was my last chance in this
life TO be really dressed up. Now am
satisfied, though l should have liked to
wear few diamonds.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
FASHIONS FANCIEs.

Fashions have altered materially In
one respect, for, whereas the demo-
saison used TO be entirely overlooked,
now new materials and styles are
brought out before the winter fabrics
or modes are ready. and gay autumn
gowns with skirts OF Ombre woollen toh
sur ton, with smart little jackets OF
plain cloth or velvet, are made ready
for the cool days, when heavy gown
may be worn without q wrap.
When the whistling winds OF Novem-
Der call for capes We shall see the slop-
ing shoulder once more queen Of
fashion. The shawllike effect is TO be
introduced again, so good-oy to the
athletic tailormade shoulder, square
set and Minerva-like. The newest
bodices have shoulder seams five and q
half inches long, aud all the trimming
falls from line over the point OF the
shoulder, which adds to the sloping ef-
feet of the bottle-liks curves now de-
manded by the mode.
The old-fashioned chains, slender and
fine, that our grandmothers wore We
are wearing now, at least those Of US
fortunate enough to have had grand
mother Of such elegant tastes. And We
wear them just as she did, passed twice
around the neck, so that they display a
heart shaped locket at the throat and
another at the waist. The watch is not
worn on these chains, which have been
christened by the unpOetical name OF
"danglers," but pinned on the shoulder,
or, the latest wrinkle, inserted in the
left-hand glove, as formerly 1t was set
into the nurse or card case.
Evening toilets have as q novelty
rufis OF various gauzy stufs In deli
cately shaded tints, which are wound,
serBentine fashion, once or twice
around the skirt, the ends fniehed
with bows. The new evening corsage
buttons or laces behind, and lace OF
every kind and pattern is the favorite
ornamentatlon.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
nld.rIms rrousseau Gowns.

Some one who has been delving into
the old, musty magazines has brought
to light a description Of some treusseau
gowns made for Princess Charlotte
when she married Prince Leopold, OF
Saxe-Coburn.
Here is the description Of the we'd
ding gown: "The wedding dress was a
slip OF white and silver atlas, worn I'M
der dress Of transparent silk net, ele-
gantly embroidered in silver cana with
a border TO match, tastefully worked In
floral designs to form festoons round
the bottom, the sleeves and Eeck
trimmed with most rich suit OF Brus-
sells point lace"
Ali very fine, but what, prithee, thou
Quaint old fashion writer, are cana"
and "atlaso" "Mantua" is almost as
obsolete part OF the vocabulary Of
fashion, but we still recognize behind
it the image of flowing cape. But
"atlas"? 1t is conundrnm. And
CANA? An Egyptian riddle. 1t
seems TO have been quite popular, what
ever it was. for another Of the trousseau
gowns was OF white net embroidereI In
gold cana, with border laid over white
satin. In this case the mantua was OF
rich gold brocade, with blown roses
richly woven in and trimmed with gold
lace. or the other gowns OF this old
time bride, one was OF transparent net,
richly embroidered in the bright and
dull tones of silver; another was of fine
white India muslin, worked over 10 lit
tie spots wrought in filigree gold, and
Aounced with Brussels point; another
was Of silver tissue trimmed with silver
lace.
In addition to all this gold and silver
fnery, there were two whole dresses OF
Brussels lace, valued respectively at
900 and $50 guneas. Also two OF Brit
ish blond net, specially worked for her
ROYAL Hinhness. The last but one OF
the gowns described was white mus
lin morning gown, trimmed with three
broad rows of ValencienneS lace. All
the gowns, it will be noticed, were
white, and most Of them were gorgeous
with gold and silver thread.
But the going-away gown OF the
Princess Charlotte is enough TO make
modern bride gasp. 1t was OF the rich
est white silk, trimmed with a broad
foot ruche of white satin, headed by
two deep founces of Brussels point.
The short sleeves and low bodice-im-
agine decolete travelling gown!-were
yelled in the same lace. With this was
worn a pelisse Of white satin, lined with
sarsenet and trimmed with broad bands
ermine. Unfortunately, there is no de-
scription OF the millinery which accom-
panied all this magnifcence. or course,
the hat must have been white and enor-
nous, with sweeping plumes and
voluminous lace veil.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
FaIr sl.ter. Before ths CamerA.

The most graceful woman in the
world, according TO q celebrated pho
toRrapher, is Bernhardt, and she un-
derstands the art OF posing for picture
as no other woman can pose. whether
lanRpishing on q couch as Cleopatra"
or sitting for a profile In a modern
gown, there is q certain relaxation OF
muscles and an absence Of joints, poise
OF the head and droop Of the arms that
lend her an air of perfect ease. She
does not strain her eyes u make them
large, or droop the lids to make them
langulshing. She seems Simply to look
Al YOU while she thinks OF something
else. a fashion OF hers when not sit
ting for q portrait. The Queen OF
England Is another good sitter for q
photograph, and though she has had
eeyeraI hundreds taken At different
times, she never spoils a plate and
rarely disapproYes of any Of them. The
The Princess OF Wales, Princess Mary.
and Princess Victoria all use cameras
themselves, and produce very credit
able pictures. One Of the newest and
finest arts In photography Is that BY
which q person may be photographed
twice on the same card, yet in different
costumes. A sample Of this feat Is .
portrait OF Lefty Lind as Cfnder Eden
asleep at the table in rags aud patches,
while Just over her shoulder Is rep
resented, as IN q vision, 3 second por-
trait Of herself dressed as the wife OF
the fabled prince. They are also the
comparatively new cOlored photographs
which reproduce the tiBts Of the gown,
as well Is the color OF the eyes and hair,
upon the negative. B { With al the
changes and improvements, wi the
generality Of sitting the Dl0togE bic
smile, the ''iook-pleEsant'' grin, aDd
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
I'm Rnttons An Over Her.

The curious case, which was reported
lately, Of a set Of buttons exploding be-
fore the fire, may have many duplicates
this winter, for buttons OF all sorts are
coming in again. Big pearl buttons
with hunting scenes depicted upon
them, ivory buttons, the china buttons
OF old France, will be seen upon the
huge paletOts we will wear as the sea
son advances. MarQuiSe coats and bod
ices for tea wear will display antique
buttons Of pierced silver, the Austrian
coats of satin that are just now hRute
novelties, will have three precious but
tons on either side Of the open front
below the lapels, and two more on
either cuff, and beautiful miniature
buttons are introduced on the new thea
tire bodices Of brocade, with broad lap
els ofyelvet a d jabots Of rare lace.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24

bodice or triple belt-ior the future
wearer is a slender woman. Above the
poke, and between the lapels OF mod
crate collaretse Of lace, appears DELI
cate white silk, almost as delicate as
the lace. The sleeves below the elbow
are close fitting and covered with en-
broiderY.
Most women who look well in any
thing look best in white. Shall the
buds have the monopoly Of 1t, then
Not so, my sisters.
Hateful beyond measure Is certain
class Of thin ailks which seem to be try
ing TO initiate cheap calico and succeed
in being ugly. These with their dull
cOlors and meaningless designs have
beeu worn somewhat during the sum
mer, and they will last this winter as
house dresses-tea gowns, l might call
them, but hesitate to include them with
the daintier textures. Not more expen-
sive than these are the silks OF fairer
patterns resembling the spriRged mus
Inns Of grand mamma's lavender chests;
and prettier fabric than this never led
admiring eve up to low coils OF nut
brown heir, and clustered tendrils es-
Gaping from their fellows TO frame
pretty face.
Because It is ''cute" In their eyes and
those Of men, and because ii is trim and
trig and neat and sweet, do women love
the jacket. Hence the endless varia-
tion upon It. The jacket is almost al
WAYS good because it involves plain or
nearly plain skirt, not a virtue so usual
even for outdoor wear that is to be
taken for granted. One jacket l know
seems almost military IN its trimness,
covering but not concealing a double
breasted waistcoat. and this again cut
low enough 20 show q high collar, four
finland tie and shirt front Of masculine
severity. But the Wide-cut deep lapel
and the full-shoudered sleeve are Of
the essence OF feminity Ia mode. The
material may be what you like, from
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24
Msdalnr Mreath. Of the Natlon,.

The wreath which graces the head Of
a bride on her wedding day has been
sung by more poets, even the great
ones like Schiller, than any other chap
let Of fame or honor. In the early days
the Jews saw In the wreath the sign Of
what for them, was most beautiful and
precious the promised land, and OF the
myrtle the bridal crown was woven.
Later the myrtle wreath became the
symbol Of womanly purity, and as such
is worn by every girl bride in Germany.
In many parts Of Germany the sDrigs
from which the wreath shall be twined
must be taken at fixed hour Of the
night between certain holy days. And
In both Denmark and Germany families
possess myrtle trees which have, for
ouhe generation or more, furnished
the bridal wreaths at family
weddings. In Greece the myr-
tie and the rose we're consid-
cred the favorite flowers Of Venus, the
twining OF the two together signiiying
the union Of love and virtue. In Eng
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-09-24

and perhaps they viii guide yon laso
stralgbtsr paths. For they state 'Dss
tbe is5O slope Of the shoulder WI y
aecentusted By every new reyef 80
eveyy new coilarette; that EeiYsI ~.
ain viii vie With each other Tor
cendaucy 10 trimming ihis vlniefi 'n-.
combtnatlons Of material VII oe y, ~,
onIy the opportunity Of the e,fs .e.
scooomlst. but the necessity o,
,scIIsss spendthrIft; thai e. 80. ~,
iii b greatly In vogue; thar ne ~, sss
craze shows 20 symptoms % ase-I, 80 -
v,r~ are permitted 70 eIongsis y0al "a.
yssris esps By . velvet rune g -..ss.
- n you will have . nofs' -.-. 49,,
.1s' 81 rUfis they moss star. g mol 80
width II the front $50 . y sss b.ss:
,e.c ~ -osr ts;l gown nsy b ees',l. ~
e 1s ,seIs and siIll be iashlonss.s. 80 80
ons * ssI ,s.s silk win b SEQ nois ".
"a .9 4 New York sssse:. ...s s.''
g'lv ss y Eva 4. scl'rREst.