Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1893-03-26
HOW no MAKE WING BRETELLEs

HOW TO MAKE WING BRETELLES
The wing bretellcs that made their first
appearance some little time ago have
gained a permanent place, and will be
worn during the spring and summer If
not for "A still longer time, so that 1t Is
well for all of US who are our own
mOdistcs 10 learn how they are arranged
and how 1t Is best to cut and finish
them.
According TO the very latest edict Of
fashion the brctclles must be somewhat
broader at the shoulders than heretofore,
and must add TO the breadth Of the figure
as much rs possible. But whether they
terminate In a rutiie put In IN yoke form,
or whether in a point at or just below
the waist line is a matter for the owner
of the gown TO determine Whether they
hang six inches from the shoulder or ten
must depend upon the figure of the
woman for whom they are designed.
And whether they are 80 be made Of
velvet, silk or wool must be determined
by the gown on which they are TO be
worn.
Yet one style is somewhat newer than
the rest, and as the essentials are the
same for all. 1t makes perhaps the best
model of any, as with variations II can
be changed into any other that may be
preferred. Besides, It's pointed form Is
becoming 20 more figures than is the
round yoke shape.
TO make bretelles like those the draw
ing shows, first cut the material on a
true bias. Then measure the distance
from the point Of the short basque or
waist 10 the yoke line; that is 20 say, to
the point even with the Nrmpit; measure
then from that point TO the middle Of the
back.
Allow for each bretelle double the
length Of the first measurement, also
iouble that OF the second, and cut strips
for the whole of whatever width you
may prefer.
Measure off from the two ends, after
all the pieces are scanned together and
pressed, the length from the point TO the
armpt, and then slope the inner edge of
It TO point.
If the material be wool, velvet or silk,
or anything but cotton goods, you must
next line the whole neatly with TIE thin
nest softest silk; If ii be cotton, finish
the outer or straight edge with half
inch hem. In either citse press the strip
flat with warm iron when so much OF
tie work Is done.
Gather all the space that lies between
the measurements taken from each end
with two rows of stirring Then turn
the bretelle back onto the basque and
haste the edge of each end from the
point to the gathers.
Next draw up the two gathering
threads till the ruffle Is the exact length
necessary TO pass over the shoulders and
around yoke form in the back, and adj
just the fulness so that more shall hang
over the shoulders and little less in
the back, as indicated in the illustra-
ton.
Stitch all the seams carefully and fine
ly to the body of the basque and turn
the bretele over Into place, where IL
should hang in soft folds over the pulled
sleeves, setting with perfect smoothness
20 the front OF the basque. Unless, in
deed, You wish the body OF your gown
TO open at the shoulder and under-arm
seam. in place of down the front; In
that case one end of the bretelle must be
left free That Is. one end from the
shoulder 10 the point must bc sewed to
narrow bond in place Of 10 the gown
and fastened into place with invisible
hooks and eyes after the gown itself Is
securely hooked at both seams.