Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-11-12
THE WOMAN OF FASHION
DARING DEPARTURES MARK TIE FASHION
ABLE MAIDEN OF TO-DAY.
Types Of the Laiess-A T~hTOngiug Of Brilliant
Figures and Glimpsss at Sons Of Them.
Materials and Combinations That are Novel.
CopyrgM, 1898.

wonder how 1t Is that such strikIngly
opposite effects as you have Just seen
can, both Of them, be 50 strictly fash
ionable. You meet, first OF all, your
true 1880 girl, with her broad, dropping
shoulder puffs and broader revers that
fall helplessly over, with her cores
pondingly dropping hat, and with wide
ming effect at hip and skirts edge. She
appeals to you, somehow, and you feel
as il she Is in need Of something, you
can scarcely tell what You hover about
her in a sort Of uncertain fashion, until
she lifts her eyebrows in surprise, then
YOU fall back like q fool, and remind
yourself that this is simply a fashion
able type.
You turn from her to find a different
sort of a girl. The girl has big sleeves
with big droops. too; and yet her re-
vers have a way Of standing more erect.
Then straight, without q fold, her bod
ice slopes down to the waist line, and
from there on takes such pretty, full
plaits into itself, standing out bravely
and jauntily all above her. Such 4
dainty figure she presents! Perhaps 1t
Is the satin bands ADD the bralds that
encircle her figure so protectingly that
make Yen think that she, at least, needs
10 further assistance, Her step Is so
springy and elastic. the slenderness OF
be. form is so intensified by the pretty
f~ullness OF her basque's skirt, that she
delights your eye, and you stand of a
little to watch her, as she passes swiftly.
Then you meet your tailor-made girl,
always immaculate and charming in
her severe simplicity. But even the
tailor -made girl has q fascination this
year that she never had before. Per
haps it is the quaintness Of rever and
sleeve that gives it TO her. Certain 1t
is that she satisfies that craving for
perfection which makes itself felt in
the human breast.
But after all, thought l, my second
girl belongs first. This ~clinging, be-
seeching apparel is very touching, h3t
the daring basques are more suited to
the latter-day girl. How quickly this
fact dawned upon her! The Russian
blouse effects of so few seasons ago, so
| graceful in line, that were superseded
by the short, loose bodice, have quickly
renewed their youth and improved
themselves in the renewal. WHAT can
be jauntier than the long basque Of the
new season? 1t is so like the American
girl, who could not long endure the
h~elDlessness that the 1880 imposed upon
her. She didn't dare do anything for
herself in her queer, old-fashioned cos
tune; and, therefore, could not do
aught but throw it of. Now she is
more like herself, all hail to her!
To-day l made up my mind l would
call on no arbiter OF fashionS-what a
misnomer the title has come to be-but
would view la mode as she is worn on
our fashionable streets. No long dis
sertation do l care for this day, thought
I;1et me betake myself to sunlit thor
oughfares, where the women throng,
and see for myself what they are choos-
irg.
Among On amazing quantity OF bright
! costumes my eye rested on a dark, dark
| blue, made very simple. A plain black
satin band fnishde the skirt and the
| edge Of the long, full-skirted basque.
/ Then four satin bands encircled the
bodice, one, Of course, at the waist line.
| Tiny gathered straps went over each
shoulder, 20 join the topmost band at
back and front, and were finished
with small choux. She was 4 OF
those slender wasted figures that
sank into oblivion when the en-
pire came back, and which since
then have had but little reason for eX-
listing So that her tapering waist ex-
cited all the more comment, particular
" because the skirt Of her basque was
more than ordinarily full.
Then a grsyish fawn clamored for at
tention. The shade was little removed
/ from white, and is a color one sees lit
tie of nowadays. Each of the skirts
seams was hidden beneath green velvet
piping, and a green velvet berthe look
ed startlingly prominentsagainst the
| pale tint Of the gown.
A pale chocolate stripe OF two light
shades, whit the stripe slanting, had q
series of small rounding tabs Of plain
cloth over each skirt seam. Each tao
was b~uttoned to the one just above.
A neat black had a black and white
/ trimming that was most u~naSsuming.
A putting Of the black and white silk
finished the skirt andthe revers of the
bodice. 1t also, In narroWerAine con-
| cealed the hooking OF the basque in
| front, and then il encircled the throat.
Then l saw, oh such a pretty dress!
that had a groundwork Of red, so lined
and irregularly worked with black
velours that you could scarcely find any
traces Of the bright color. A narrow
band of black astrachan formed a rich
finish to the skirt. The bodice was
| loosely gathered together at the bust
with apparent carelessness, and the
folds caught with q chou OF black satin.
Two 1at black satin revers lay we'll over
the sleeves, edged with an insertion laid
over brilliant red satin.
Some dresses went past so quickly
that all I could catch was the material.
A soft, dark red attracted me. The
/ material was raised in small squares,
very open, OF mohair, although the
ground was wool.
A rich terra Gotta was plentifuily aud
! closely lined with black, and q pattern
OF clocks In a lighter terra Gotta was
thrown over, worked in silk.
A hne dark blue saeking was squared
over with tiny silk dots Of the same
shade, then dashed with brilliant
orange.
By this time l have seen so much that
not even q rich sshes-of-rose, with vel
vet pile, lightened with touches Of faint
! pink, ELECTS more than a passing look.
/ like the quaint device az the jet plas-
troc, however, aud am not insensible to
me Isetty scarf with long silken fringe
that falls az the side Of the skirt
I haVs also sufficient animation to
grasp a skirt Of darkest tobacco velvet,
over which there fall from the waist
five long pointed tabs, in paler brown.
that almost conceal the velvet. Each
/ tab is outlined by scarcely more than 4
thread Of let EVA A. ScHUBERr