Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1893-02-26
FOREIGN TRAVEL.
Odd Incidents and Observations
in the Old World.
WAKEMAN'S wANDERlNGs.
The foet'Traveier sends from over tho
Sea same Graphic Note. ON Italy
aud ia Lowry among the Car
bonari Of Mi. PfatomAgao
Copyright 1909, by Edgar l.. wakeman)
uNor The sunday Gazetiel

f''i ~ A+A-Al a.. W uheulNnsI
u'or The sunday Gazetiel
London. I'cb. IL. 1893
ohe or the most delightful experiences
OF my, wqnderings in Italy was a night
passed with the charcUal-Durners Ina the
mountains 10 the NORTH of FLORENCE Al
ule village of Dod ] hooked up the
mouhthm OF FratOmauo aud saw lines of
plue smoke IN te0thcry pcncilmpf nuaind
hrs 'V''''''"
Those are the carbouarl. They never
ie3Ie the mountains. save on fpast-dnys;"
SUI y kindly carrettlj0. when they
S9ne 20 Iosi Tor wine and oil ,they are 80
mack aud dreadful, our children ran and
hide. but they DO no harni" 10 with "a
FngaFous Impulse of adventure turned
aslQv from the paved mountain way. and,
WIN the cartman's son Tor guide. skirt.
ca the mountain, coming IN a two hours
tramp through dense forests pf beech.
CHESTNUT aud pine, with here and there a
piHckehed opening where the trees had
already been burned, or sunny space.
where sportsnien aud shcphcrvds snarp
the mountain Birds | came to the char.
coal-burncr's camp, and was Hospitality NJ.
ceiNed for the night
lhcse carimnur from a distinct class
~ the mountains of Italy. They general
" live IN the villages the wife aud
daughters engaging in the vineyards.
gathering olives or chestnuts, and often
rs shcphprdesse- with smnll locks. The
ialhefs ana SONS 90 from one forest To
another as the owners desire chnrcual
made. The landlord secures the feeling
ANA cutting of the trees, and the cur
DOnnro simply attends To building the
pEres anu watching day and night their
smnuluenng progress. Ia this tabor the
snis shnrN, und regular watches are
taken The logs are stood ON pud in
ruuhd piles of pcrlinps eighteen feet IN
mnineter, covered and uhinkcd with NOISY
earth uud then iiNN la u central hollow
which has been filed with chips of dry
upibcr iir cones, clips from the logs ana
dcnd leaves and grass
Once well ahlnle. this flaming funnel
H. covered with moss nnd pnrth. and
the pile IS left 10 shoulder for i've en-
siX days. When reduced to carhuue or
charcoal the cArhOnaro delivers it to the
owner packed h sacks. two sacks com.
prisiug donkcyload, Tor which he 20
cCiycs about ten oUts, or about - Tor
euch burning yielding 10 sacks. AZ this
camp, an unusually large one, u score on
more curhunar were az work, aud. ms
tlie burning was to b. for an extended
period some six or eight ot thc cnrbOnnri
had built temporary huts and removed
their entire faiuilics To- the forest
This gave life and picturcsQueness 10
the scene. especially at night few
iron cresu'ts had been fastened 10 the
trec-trunks. and the crackle aud Earrings
Of cones and knots lent weircd coorinN
to The motley groups Of women with
dazzling tcrth and eyes, aud men grimy
and Warth beyond all description /
could not reprcsa the feeling that ! was
at my old wundcnugs with any NlNy
friends again: and rs the night gathered
fhts fuutusHiff I4faasf
one by one some strange Instrument ct
music was produced from the shad0wy
huis while melody and dancing added
their fascination 10 the Wild strange
scene. thousand recollections of days
with the Romany swept back ON Prato-
nngno's darkcned heights
Deeper still grew this feeling as
was shown to couch OF iir branches
for slrep. IL came not for hours; for In
the gentle soughlng OF the frs, che calls
Of the watchers To each other. aud horp
and there through the camp. suppressed
tones Of melody az those who watched
GROUPED together aud relssuringy snng
low and SOFT the Stoinelli of Italy, ! was
with my vagabond friends by their witch
ing Camp-iires IN my owh loved iRnd
When the morning came, after n break
fast of puu unto, or bread fried IN olive
OH, and many kindly 'nddioW and
vale" from my gtuy hosts, 1 found
my own way back TO the friendly VIII
Layers Of 1osi
The traveller Ia Italy will remember Of
Naples Itself thAt Il possesses nO one
grand prcdominnting place, Thing on
characteristic of SURPRISING interest. This
might perhaps be modified by saying IL
was "a city OF wonderful coutnHts-0f the
tremendously rich and wofuily poor, OF
the oldest and best Italian nobility and
the most wrptchcd ~ utlcd adveuturers;
of dazzling beauty and most hideOus
haggishnCss In women, OF most learned
sayauts aud the most sOdden ignorance;
d the highest virtue and the most dis
gusting lrwdnosa, 80 shamcfacrd that
even male devils accost one everywhere
with printed tariffs OF RIGHTEOUSNESS; at
the latest mOdca IN dress, aud gHrb
among the lowly az ancient az the Time
of Tiberius: Of frRhtful activity and
tropical siesta; Of deafcning din and
sOlemn hush Of the shrillest aud most
ceaseless shriekings day aud night aud
meanwhile the ,nOst sibilant and melo-
dous Of tender yOicings; OF content and
despair; cruelty and kindheartelness;
loynlty and treachcry; aud just as MI
Italy physically seems tu be- IN a Hover
heaven smiling over a threat
omng volcanic hcll-0f laughiug-eyod
humans with hearts IN which the worst
OF human passions forever brood, ready
AT aa iistants kindling for sedition,
rnpine OF murder.
In every part OF Southern Italy you
will come upon "a broad. grass-sroWu
highway IL Is called the "tratur0.' For
twenty centuries IL has served the same
purpose. CA This "uuturO' occurs the
yearly spring exodus from the lower
vnllcys and cOastWise moOrs and marshes
10 the Apulian mountain summer pastures
In the autumn, hundreds Of thousands
return along these ancient ways. During
The winter the herdsmen and shepherds
live ina tOwl-hOycls, or Ia huts near the
towns aud villages. The herds mud
focks nra then driven ont 20 and return
ga from daily grazing hut IN the SUM
mer-ume on the mOuntaii-sldes Is the
rpnl outdoor life Of the guardian Of the
docks and herds. Whether be- be herds
man. goat-herd or shepherd, he n usually
given charge OF flock or herd OF FROM
~ 70 100 animals.
These folk rarely intormarry with other
,lasgps. When they de-, they Instantly
depart from the ilocks, are absorbed in
lower orders Of the cities, or become the
lno4t desperately hopeless 81 the human
cattle that labor ia the fields, Tho pride
IN their own descent, Ia the eyClusiyeuefs
III their class In the long line Of shelr
herd ancestry they con trace. amounts a.
most 10 q passion. IL is practically the
one pride obey pOssess Id. isnlhilon oi
Dlood and interest has preserved interest
M traces Ia physl0gnainy They are
saracenic ln their look. The
fN.t Eul.