davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

wear afterwards, why we mothers ought
not to complain. Any pretty walking
costume is suitable
Glass day exercises-at least those of
girls class day-are informal, therefore
informal dress is really the correct cos
tune. 1t is worn without hat or gloves,
and with boots or shoes instead of slip
perS.
| A dainty gown such as / am about to
describe might be made of white and
would then do for graduation; but in
such case another would have to be pro-
yided for class day, for it is an unwritten
law that the same gown shall not be worn
on both occasions.
A striped batiste, white and dark red
shading almost to brown, had the lower
part of the corsage formed of tiny tucks,
| no wider than bobbin. Thirteen were
! laid between the waist line and the bust.
These were brought diagonally from the
side seam to the centre. The upper part
OF the corsage was rather full, with the
usual shirring at the neck.
The sleeve, which was OF the regular
leg of mutton pattern, had q shoulder
cape similarly tucked.
The skirt was trimmed with two rows
of punched ruching, that is to say ruch-
ing made very full. 1t was of tulle with
satin edge. One row was placed about
four inches from the bottom OF the skirt,
the Obuer Just DeiOW bu6 Knee
India silks are very popular for gowns
for old and young; and as gay colors are
permissible for street wear, the selection
for young girls class day gown is al
most unlimited.
An exquisite gown Of old rose lowered
was made with six rows of corded shir-
ring on the corsage, two close to the
throat, two at the top of the shoulder and
two below these, serving both as finish
to the yoke and heading for the bertha
of Irish point which was arranged rather
full across the front and back as well as
over the shoulders.
The belt was of plain satin ribbon,
matching the ground of the silk and had
rosette at the left in front and two
rosettes; one on each side at the back.
The sleeve was rather smaller than the
average puff at the top, and the lower
part was formed of plaits, three on each
side, reversed so that the center folds
We're fastened together by three tiny
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

is one of the finest wild beast trainers in
the world, entered the circle with his
whip in his hand, which, as he entered,
he cracked smartly, causing the animals
to spring sharply to attention upon their
little seats. Karl Hagenbeck introduced
me to Mr.. Mellermann, who is indeed his
own brother-in-laW as well as his trainer.
what is your rule OF training, Mr..
Mellermann?' said /.
Kindness and GOODNESS and hrmness, -
he replied, ''as you will see in this per-
Torrance. Come on, pussies, - he con-
tinued, sshow this gentleman how you
can run around the circle" The pus
sizes, as he called them, fairly big tigers
as | should have considered them, UNI
willingly crept off their seats, growing
not a little. Mr.. Mellermann cracked his
whip smartly, but did not hit them.
The animals then began to run very pref
tily round and round the circle. So we'll
did they DO their little tricks that Mr..
Mellerman said: s'Now, you shall have
some sugar, you have been very good
He placed in my hands a few Jumps OF
sugar which 1 my self gave to them great
ly TO their pleasure.
Then pyramid was formed by some
young tigers, some lions, a couple Of
ponies and four young goats. The pyTa-
mid itself consisted of a small double lad
der, upon the steps of which the animals
somewhat nervOusly took their places,
and upon which they stood gazing quiet
ly down upon us, until they were told
they might go back to their places.
Alter awhile, when school was over,
the goats and ponies left the arena, and
then the door of big cage, which gave
entrance upon the circle, was thrown
wide open. 1t was pretty to see the little
lions and tigers running home after
school, for all the world like an infant
school dismissed to play. The pretty
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

''I've read" said an editor to writer
in the New York Times, Hundreds of
rolled manuscripts, and never yet found
enc that l cared to print. / have decided
that the stupidity which rolls manu-
script cannot produce anything worth
reading.'' A rolled MS. is a desperate
thing, but there is another that is almost
worse-the one that comes to you with
the last page on top and the first page at
the bottom. \ MS. was once sent to NE
arranged in this careless manner. There
were 500 or 500 pages of it. Do you know
what did with it? | sent 1t back TO the
author with note in which | advised
him before he sent that MS. on its travels
to show sufficient interest in it to arrange
the pages properly. l hope for his sake
that he acted upon my advice. If he did
not, [ doubt that his tale ever got hear
ing. Life is too short for the important
things 10 be done as they should be, and
it never could be long enough for one not
only to do his own work properly, but to
rectify the careless work Of others. a
rolled MS. shows thoughtless writer,
but MS. arragned backward shows
carelesSneSS that is insulting to the per-
son to whom it is sent and argues i'll for
the intelligence of the writer. An attrac-
tive manuscript goes long way toward
winning the favor of the "reader. -
Even if refused, it is refused with genuine
regret but reader is only too glad
to find the carelessly prepared MS. as
worthless as it Looks. | have always adj
mired the patience that induced Mr..
George Haven Putnam to read the Ms. OF
1.-THE Leavenworth Case,'' for it was
carelessly written in lead pencil on COM
mon paper, and by an author then I'M
known. But he had his reward. Tile
Critic
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

bottom and another of the same width
and material just at the knee. The shirr-
ings are fastened tightly top and bottom.
The corsage, which is short and round,
has ribbon trimming which may be ex-
planned as double military sash effect.
One ribbon is drawn from the right
shoulder diagonally across the bodice,
while the other is arranged parallel to it,
but is fastened under the arm.
The sleeves of this gown are striking
and particularly pretty, though the
dressiness of the corsage suggests a GER
tain style which, if absent in the wearer,
would give the effect of overdress-a
thing always TO be avoided for young
girls. Four perpendicular puffs, not
shirrings, of the crepon extend from the
elbow to the shoulder. Satin ribbon
these puffs, the ends of the ribbon being
made into little bows to form finish
both at shoulder and elbow. The sleeve
is tight fitting, or nearly so, from the
elbow to the wrist, and perfectly plain
about the hand.
Care should be taken not to use such
style as this for girl who cannot carry
it well-that is, one who, being over
grown, is awkward. 1T would make her
uncomfortable and increase her self-con-
seriousness. Such a one should be so
dressed that she can feel that while her
gown will bear the most minute criticism,
it is not such as will attract undue atten-
ton. But there is girl who would look
charming thus arrayed. She is pretty
and piquant, with soft curves and good
complexion; for remember, there is con-
siderable satin brought near the face.
And she must have perfectly fitting
gloves, dainty fan and a bouquet not
too large.
A SIMPLER GOWN.
A pretty and serviceable gown made for
'93 graduate is of cream albatross. The
skirt, which is gored only at the sides, is
trimmed with four inch shirring double
stitched top and bottom.
The corsage has a round yoke, back and
front, and considerable fullness below. 1t
is finished with satin ribbon twisted and
brought to slight point, Just enough to
take away the idea of an empire waist.
At the back this ribbon is formed into
bow standing upright above the waist
and with short ends. The shirring at the
throat, like that on the skirt, is double
stitched, and just below the shirring is a
ruf1e made very full and fastened with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

In the first performance only very young
animals took part but as they had been
working since last January. year they
were pretty well up to all the little tricks
they had been taught. My readers will
imagine a great circle carefully rallied off
from the outside world by iron bars.
Round this circle, upon a number of little
stands, sat the performing animals, wait
ing to take their respective "turns, - as
they say in the music halls. In the midst
of the circle sat myself with beautiful lit
tie baby lion on my knee, which amused
itself by playing with my watch chain
and handkerchief. Two little tigers got
tired of sitting still and suddenly jumped
down from their perches and ran up to
play with me and the baby lion. A young
lion on another perch yawned SO loud
that we all, animals and men, looked up
to see what was the matter. Mr.. Hagen
beck walked round the circle stroking the
animals, most of which affectionatiy
kissed HIM as he passed.
AT this moment Mr.. Mellermanu, who
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

lining, the waist shaped with the usual
number of darts and closed in the ordi-
nary manner; no darts are ever cut in the
dress material itself, unless for the prin-
cess. The skirts hang loosely from the
waist and are not fastened to the silk or
batiste which serves the purpose of lin
ing. These underskirts-for such the lin
ings really are-are sewed in at the same
belt with the outside, close gored and all
fullness drawn to the back.
Where one side of the skirt seam is
straight and the other bias, no staying is
needed; but where both are bias, stayings
are necessary. There is a diversity of
opinion on this subject, some contending
that the stays should be straight, bobbin
tape being recommended for organizes
and similar stuffs, while others declare
that the stays should be bias strips of the
dress goods. Great care must be taken in
stitching bias seams. The best dressmak-
ers will not allow them to be done on a
machine.
PETTICoATs.
The petticoat worn with a graduating
gown may be OF white silk or of fine
French cambria. 1t should be straight,
with but little fullness, and trimmed with
insertion and lace. One costing 50 had a
founce OF cambria three lights of yard
wide, bordered with lace three inches
wide. Two rows of insertion an inch in
width were between the founce and the
knee.
GLOVES AND SLIPPERS.
Gloves and slippers must match the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

creatures gambolled about for short
time while in their cage and then lag
down to rest.
''And now,'' said Mr.. Hagenbeck,
''the older animals are coming in to do
their performance. Several attendants
entered the building as he spoke, for to
handle a large number of fully grown
wild animals is no light matter. The
first animals to come rushing into the
arena were number of huge German
boarhounds; great affectionate beasts they
were too. AS patted one of them as it
passed me he reared himself on his hind
legs, threw mis- forepaws round my neck
and delightedly covered my face with
kisses. Each boarhound in entering the
circle went to his own allotted place with
all the sense of human being.
A few moments afterwards door was
thrown open and in walked the lions and
tigers. Splendid beasts these last were.
Some looked very good tempered, al
though it is to be acknowledge that one
tiger had evidently got out of bed the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
Stylish Gowns Suitable for Com
mencement and Class Day.
FASHIONS AND MATERIALS.
A. Strict Simplicity to Be the STANDARD
This Year.
The Graduating Dress the Charming Pro-
totype of the Wedding Gown-Cre-
pom a Favorite Fabric-Hints for
the Home Dressmaker, Etc.
Corresponding OF TIE HERALD.

New yoRK, May 16.-The forerunner,
the charming prototype of the wedding
gown, is the graduation dress. Years
ago it was frequently the girls first train.
Now, however, fashion has decreed that
1t shall retain more of schoolgirl sim
plicity and, like the bridesmaids gown,
shall be limited to walking length. This
years. models reach just to the ankle.
The more stylish the gown the more
noticeable the simplicity, and it is con-
sidered in the best taste not to make a
display even of expensive material.
Crepon, or the lovely new silk and wool
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
Private Rehearsal in Hamburg of
Karl Hagenbeck's Show.
WHAT KINDNESS WILL DO.
1t Must, However, Be Accompanied
with Great Goodness.
Raymond BIathwayt Relates the Incident:
of Two full Performances in His
Honor-The Pitch of Perfec-
ton in Training.
HAMBURG. Mav1.

gSTSS 7 is told OF the mad king of
ecSXY9I- @SSBavaria that he used frequent
@GroiEE ly to command great theatre
~ H%Acal entertainments at which
Sy wi he himself was the only spec
~ - W tator. A similar experience
y befell me when was visiting
WI Hamburg. For Karl Hagenbeck
Is at my special request and with
g. great good nature gave two full
performances in my honor, at which, like
the mad Bavarian king, 1 was the only
spectator.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

bengaline are to be preferred to silk;
II silk must be chosen, it should be of the
simpler and lighter kinds, such as taffeta,
india or China, never bengaline. Mothers
who have more good sense than money
select albatross cloth, batiste, lawn or
French misunderstanding in short,
which can be used for an afternoon gown
Sor the summer.
CREPoN FAvoRITE FABRIC.
OF the above materials, crepon is decid-
IDLY the favorite. It can be bought from
20 cents to g per yard; but cheap crepon
Is not suitable for an entire gown. The
quantity required viii depend upon the
width of the goods and the style in which
Ii is 10 be fashioned. There IS, however.
3 standard for the skirt which should
never exceed three and half yards. The
sulness which envelops the woman of '93
Is merclfully withheld from the school
girl even in her commencement or class
DAY costume. a five-gored skirt is the
limit prescribed. Cream white shades
pre- popular because they are more apt to
butt the complexion.
Ay IMPORTED GOWN.
A lovely graduation gown imported by
, Broadway house is of cream white
erepcn, cut in princess style. A hounce.
seven inches wide, of point de gene, goes
around the bottom of the skirt. This is
partly hidden by a five-inch fringe falling
Rrom a broad ribbon that is worn like a
elergyman's stole over the shoulders.
back and front. The ribbon, which is
watered, is eight inches wide and forms
apparently the sides OF the corsage, fol-
lowing the outline of the figure, but
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
A BLOUSE COSTUME.

For all, slender figures, there is no more
becoming style of bodice than the blouse.
One class day gown had blouse of blue
China silk made to be slipped under the
skirt. 1t has considerable fulness back
and front, but plain pieces under the
arms. 1t is cut to fall about one-eighth
of a yard below the waist, so that all
chance of it slipping up is avoided.
A double shirring finishes the neck,
and from this shirring falls garniture
OF white lace about two inches wide, laid
rather plainly.
The skirt has a pulled stirring not
more than four inches in depth, includ
ing the double heading. The girdle, a
narrow empire belt, is fastened to the
skirt. This is an advantage as it will en-
able the wearer to change the bodice at
any time.
The sleeve is of moderate dimensions
a small puff at the shoulder and close
fitting from the elbow to the wrist where
it is finished by lace falling back upon it.
MARGARET COMPTON.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

double feather stitching around the yoke
and over the shoulders.
The sleeve has the fullness falling half
way between the elbow and the wrist,
and is finished with ruffle similar to the
bertha.
This gown was selected because of its
simplicity and also because in outline it
is admirably adapted for that: large class
of young girls whose angnlarity needs to
he softened by proper fitness of drapery.
1t could be made much more snowy by
substituting lace for the ruffie and by
using shoulder kn OTIS and elbow bands of
ribbon. The rather stiff effect OF the
twisted ribbon could easily be obviated
by setting rosette at the waist line half
way between the center and the side
seam.
BATISTE AND LACE.
A princess gown of white batiste is cut
with rounded yoke and has bertha of
soft, flmy lace, brought up full over the
shoulders and finished with upright little
bows of inch-wide white satin ribbon.
Loops of the ribbon enough to give the
effect of punching are fastened between
the shoulders at the back and in front at
the exact point where corsage bouquet
would be worn, the ends back and front
falling to the waist line.
The skirt has a fiounce of lace five
inches wide, slightly gathered for a head
ing, and finished with white ribbon ar
ranged in broad V pattern, each point
fastened with a rosette so tiny that it
looks like a mere knot. the ribbon is
not laid or fiat but is slightly crushed.
The effect is excellent.
The sleeves are large puffs with full lace
elbow frills. This style would be equally
good for other materials. It, would be
admirable for a silk and wool bengaline.
FOR THE HOME DREssMAKER.
All thin materials, unless cut princess,
is merely drapery over a well-fitted lin
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

hanging loose from the waist line. Be-
tween the ribbons is a shirring OF the
crepon extending from the neck to. the
feet. The corsage is cut rounding and
Just covers the cellar bone. This is the
invariable rule for all these gowns. There
is double shirring as a finish for the
neck and lace matching the fonnce, but
narrower, is gathered over the top of the
full pulled sleeve. The sleeve itself is of
the ribbon; the puff, which is very round
and full, reaches to the elbow and is I'm
ished with lace the same as the bertha.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

The best salve in the world for cuts.
bruises, sores, ulcers, salt rheum, lever
sores. letter, chapped hands, chilblains,
corns and all skin eruptions, and posi-
lively cures piles, or no pay required. Il
is guaranteed to give perfect satisfaction,
or money refunded. Price, Is cents pep
bnx. For sale by a. @. Smith d Co, =
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
A GOWN OF CREPE DE CHINE.

Another imported costume is of crepe
de chine with an empire waist aud crush
girdle of white satin ribbon. This is the
only resemblance to a sash that l have
seen. The ribbon is drawn into three ir-
regular folds like the crush velvet girdle
familiar to all, and is arranged at the
back in bow which is aptly described as
"donkey's ears the ends OF the ribbon
being allowed to fall nearly to the bottom
of the skirt
The skirt is very plain, having only a
crepon shirring two inches wide at the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

rosettes placed like buttons between the
wrist and the elbow.
The skirt had a narrow ruffle on the
bottom with a bias fold of the silk caught
up with rosettes q trifie larger than those
on the sleeves,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
FLOWERS AND FANS.

Glasses generally select flower as an
emblem aud wear it on commencement
day, according to regulations made by
them. This is in addition to the bou-
quet. The bouquet is held in both hands
and carried at the waist. This necessi-
tates the fan being fastened at the side.
1t should have two ribbons, one to serve
as chatelaine and the other falling over
it as garniture. Both are arranged in
loops and bows as tastily as possible.
The fan should be white and of feath
ers or lace, nothing so heavy as satin
being considered in good taste.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
"Grand Republic"
Is the best nickel cigar made.
BE Sure Ynn Insure

And when you insure, remember the great
North America company, represented in
Utah by HEBER j. GRANT & Co. y
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
CLASS DAY.

Glass day is an Institution which our
girls have borrowed from their brothers
and made as delightful as such adapta-
lions naturally become under the magic
touch of womanly ingenuity. 1t means
another gown for the fair graduate, but
since it is one that can be used for street
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
worlds Columbian Exposition

Will be of value to the world by illustrat-
ing the improvements in the mechanical
arts, and eminent physicians will tell you
that the progress in medicinal agents has
been of equal importance, and as a
strengthening laxative that Syrup of Figs
is far in advance OF all others.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

gown in color. The former should be of
suede and proportioned to the sleeve in
length.
The slippers should be Of kid or satin,
and must also be white.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

Walter L. Price & Co.
"a Main street, vegetables, fruits and
poultry. We make these three lines of
goods a speciality. Give us a trial.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

Effective May 16, the Union Pacific will
sell tickets to points east at the following
reduced rates:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21

Reduced Rates to All Points East via TIL,
Union Pacific
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-21
Hucklen,s Arn,ca snIva.

Patronize home trade as the Chicago
liquor House does.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-12-01
PROPOSALS.

BIDS ON PLUMBING AND SIGN PAINTING
wanted at once at the FAIR. 1712 14th ST. NV.
FOR CONSTRUCTING GUN SHE'D
Washington Barracks, ID. c., December l. 1s93-
Sealed proposals in triplicate will be received
here until II NOON ON SATURDAY, THE THIR-
TEETH DAY OF DECEMBER, 1893, and then
opened for the construction of a gun shed AT
this post. Bids will be for job complete and be
accompanied by the required written guarantees
in each Specifications, drawings and blank
proposals can be obtained from the undersigned
The United States reserves the right to rel
any all bids Envelopes containing bids should
be marked Proposals for Gun She'd and ad-
dressed to c. z. TOWNSLEY, First Lieutenant
and Regimental Quartermaster. fourth artillery
A. A. q. NJ d1.24,5. 1896
L. $. ENGINEER OFFICE. COL 18TH ST NV
Washington, D. C., December ., 1S93-Notce
Is hereby given to all persons interested I'm tho
wreck of the steamer w. W. Colt. in the Wash
ington channel of the Potomac river. at Wash
ipgton, ID. G.. that If within thirty 1901 davs
from the date of this advertisement they shall
not have notified this Office of their Intention
and taken preliminary steps to remove said
wreck as soon as practicable the wreck will he
regarded as abandoned and derelct and will he
removed by the United States in accordance
with law. Sealed proposals IN trplcate will be
received at this Office until TWELVE NJ on
TUESDAY. JANUARY SECOND, 1894 for the
removal OF the above named wreck Specified =
lions, blank forms and all available inforrna tion
will he furnished application to this Office
CHAs. f. L. B. DAVIS. Major. Corps of En-
gineers. d2,456 30Sial