New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-03
A PRINCES COUNTRY HOUSE.
SOCIAL LIFE On RUSSIAN STEPPE-
LUXURY IN WILDERNESS -PRINCE DONDOU.
KOw .KORSSAKOw'S HOUSE PARTIES
A SCENE OF BEAUTY


and whose castles are as luxurously furnished as
they situated the Paris Boulevsrds Instead
OF being lost the boundlesS s'eprc. are ever
anxious 70 surround themselves with a. many guests
as possible. Nothing can BE- more delightful than
country Iife In Russia in summer and winter. but
let every one beware Ct accepting any invitation fpr
the autumn and spring. For. at those seasons I'M
ceasIng rain and mud transform every country seat
into something resembling prison. So trying Is
this state OF affairs that September OCTOBER, April
and Nav generally the months chosen BY the
Muscovlte arisocracy for repairing to ST. Petersburg
or Moscow where they inhalc few breats OF CHEEKY
city air.
Tie Russian country seat OF which | retain 'he
most agreeable and vivid recollection. derived from
both summer and winter visits. Is that OF Irlnce
D)ndOukow ". Korssakow In the Pskowsk GOVERNMENT
II bears the name Of the Castle OF Polonaja and Is
huge building half palace, half fortress. standing az
point where the dense forests resolve themselves
into great rolling plains. Within It's granite walls
It Is OF the most elegant refined magnfcenoe. yet
the outside strongly recalls TO mind the barbarc
wildncss Of the period at which II was built Almost
awc-lnsprng the great s0mbre courts and por-
ticos ana the long galleries and halls. The antique
walls Of which covered with Byzantine paintings
like those OF church. while the exquisite salons are
filed with costly modern brica brac. artistic furnl-
turc. superb pictures, flowers and palms. These
salons the late Princess planned herself and SHE
caused them T. b. decorated by celebrated French
artist.
1t IS difficult to know when to admire Polonaja best
whether in midsummer. under the scmi-Asatlc neat
which comes even In the northern regions OF Russia
With the reign OF III" Dog star. and which makes The
vast gardens and the surrounding steppc blossom
like rose: or when the earth Is bound by an iron
frost and the distant baylnc Of wolves is heard In
the snow covered forests. Perhaps because IL Is 50
short summer has In Russia charm which one
finds nowhere else. The stcppe. stretching like a
green dotted Lcrc and there with clusters OF
birch and wlllow-irccs. has mysterious look during
the long bamy July days. and Mt night the stars
seem unusually and brilliant in that steel
blue northern sky Ic, Russia Is always seen NJ It's
best during the winter months and the finest house
parties at Potomac assemble. As rule. In November.
December and January. Very grim does the old
castle look when hcdged In all sides by snow and
ice 1t Is often necessary 10 cut roads through the
snow TO the stables and wolves enter tie COURTYARD
At night and have blood curng fights with the great
bloodhound,. Cf course. PolonaIa In mdwint"r Is
very Isolated but there is no question Of "nni for
Prince Kor>-ak0w', c.c,ts. Dinners caipt dances
and private theairlcals take place almost every week
During the day there il much slelchIng going on
IS soon as the nosi had hardened the newly fallen
snow sufficiently great shcl,hapcd sleigh. To
which four splendid iorS'S were harnc''cd was
placed at my disposal and. wrapped In fur' up TO
The cycs. took hcadone glllops through the silent
woods. In The evening all assembled in the
library and read talked unlll tie midnight supper.
which /, one ~ the Princes pit fad,
The dining hall is q beautiful apartment pancllcd
n oak and hung with GOhcin tapestries. but 1t +
not there that i1,S. delightful supprr> take place.
They are SERVED in smaller which is disposed
Ike a winter garden and where camcllias and
1zalcas orange trees and mmO-a bushes form IRA
grant bowers 81 flowers and verinrc. At either end
there IS fountain Of pink marble Wit carved basins
nlcd with hlcSsoming wnt"r lilies, among which
goldfish swim. and the marble columns supporting
tho glass roof Garlandcd with white aud purple
passion flowers TIE SUPPER table IS always set
In IouIs XVI fashion. the service Is Of DID Mel sen
china ~ a peic pink hue. and Vatican figures Of the
same priceless uphold vases containing flowers
fruit and honhons Ia sup'rb proiu>ion. 40 servants
are allowed 20 be present. All the dishes ar" cold
and arr plccd IN readiness on side tables wh"nc" TN"
Primo" and his guest, bring them With their own
Land, when the, al needed Thu give, III" whole
~ FIR IN al ircscl" flavor extremely rnjoyabc ana
rob. II e all Drm1ll'v. Tn" form, truly
pharniu: picture. tie table covered with venetian
sla,, ana gold plate. III" wines sparkling In TIER
mnia,iically shaped Gredan overs and bohemian
Jugs the pretty with diamonds piiti"rlns on
their white throat, and In their lair all grouped
lmrng 'hc hlo,-omIns plants. Everything looks like
ln eighteenth orntur, picture and makes one think
| 81 versatile and 1Ianou.
TIE Prince, library l. on" OF tho hani>omcst In
Europ,. and contain, many thousand volumes. beside
priceless blacilcttcr> and manuscripts 81 bySoh"
DAYS curious Rri, ian work, are ranged In on'
corner including the traccdic, % >umarokow. who
fonily imagined himself TO b. the Russian Nclialrc
Nothing can equal the beauty OF this great oah pan
cd room with irs embossed and cmblakon"d ceiling.
II, two huge hearth, 81 carved pogph}ry and It's stained
slaS, windows dating from the fourteenth century.
and bought by th" lrincc In ITALY many years ago
Ddrr1l ana DesoIrtrs ar" we'll represented There,
and Ia" collection ol Old misNal, adorned with mint
uros by Angelica and other masters of TIE art. tn"
lvorv velvet aud liver binding, Of which CLEAN
ihou-h the plate gln-s Of great ebony boohca',.
g., unique In the world. ON Il small side table be-
meath flll length portrait Of a." LAT" Emperor
Alexander II stands rask"i of great beauty made
Il ONYX and silver. one day ia" Prince r"v'rcniy
opened II and extracted thcrefrom piece Of dark
green cloth In several Places evidently hy "N-
ploslvcs, and spotted with dried blood. Turning
toward me. with tears In his eyes. he said sadly.
.Tll. is part Of the uniform which beloved
Emprrnr wOr. when h" murdered. | WIS present
when lie brca'hcd his last. and never complaint
WAS uttered by this noble monarch, whose foul
assassination was III" reward OF his too great in
diligence"
The Prince il remarkable man in more WAYS ihan
one He has a great deal Of sound knowledge all
arts and sciences. aud tru" taste Which never
leads him astrav. III, conversation Is full ol ease
and charm and often treats Of the early scrlbes and
masters about whom he IS very enthusiastic. lie
has Il wonderful memory and Is never at fault for
a name 4 date or an apt and clever quotation.
Besides all this &c Is the soul OF hospitality. ana
poonaa IS a veriablr hospice, for all the antique
virtues seem TO have sought refuge there and the
mouths come many miles 10 seek aid and assistance
from the Prince when they are in trouble
Life Is made very charming for the visitors stay
Ing I'm Russian country houses. At POlOnLIa every
guest room opens into n tapeStry-hnng salon hllcd
with BOOKS and flowers. and all possible" comforts
and Injuries are placed within easy reach. TIE
pois Vienna and London newspapers are laid every
morning on Il side table. and there Is no delicate
attention which the Prince does not offer his guests
Ills sister keeps house for him since the death Of
tho prncess She Is one OF the ovelieSt mddlcasrd
women whom Il j. possible 10 find. She Is clothed
IN clouds OF fragrant old lace with wonderful antique
Jewel, sparkling here and thcrr among It's folds. and
A way Of dressing her silvery hair which makes her
,ooI, like a fairy godmothcr. she thoroughly hnder-