The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1893-11-30

on the night trains, and at the reStdu-
rant stations. breakfasts and dinners or
seven and eight courses may be had, wine
included; and plenty OF time Is given TOT
discussing the same. and assisting d.
gestion by sauntering up and down tne
platform. You have to pay wen ior
these privileges Of wayside refresnmeht,
and travelling expenses generally aie
about on par with the hotel bhs
the country under the general cohoi'ioh
OF inflated prices. An exception 10 "
be made In the mafter or paegage'
which is checked through TO It's oesuhs-
ton without extra charge. III Chne
and Brazil the transfer Of luggage costs
abe ut one third of the ordinary passenger
fare: and as on some of the Pacinc roans
in the United States, and that whlcn
crosses the Isthmus at Panama, IL cos's
more 10 transport an extra pound VI lug
gage than IL does an extra chllu.
The landscape all through rom .ne
Atlantic TO the Andes. IS not monoto-
nous and unlnterestnS' scoies -
scores of miles # marshy grazing Janus,
divIded into squares by three or tour
limos OF wire hitched to crooked posts;
interspersed by immense stretcnes Vi
corn field: and farther on the WHO un-
fenced pampas. Trees are rare; only al,
occ, sioral cluster of hlue-Suns. tan
ombu. or n clump OF dusty eacu Is Seer,
n
,,arkfng the line OF water course,
The ullmitable pastures are dotted
w,rh cattle and with ilocks OF large
,vtite birds of the stork variety, "hllc
clouds Of black crows Sail over, ana Vu'-
lures swoop down, wherever oea'h haS
provided them with a meal. AS RUE,
whenever vulture is seen, your hoSo
is simultaneously assailed by an appth,,
ing smell The experience OIL Irleiu
OF nine, one scorching day last june -
frequently duplicated on this line ~
saws that the train had got wei OUT w
70 the wild campo and had been making
nrettv coed progress for several leagues,
uhen suddenly the divers slackeheu
eueed and blew his whistle ike an pos-
eaesed'' In an instant every head was
out Of n window to see what was the maj
ter Matter enough to be sure, tfop-
ina OF wild horses sped right acre IS the
tte(k. Nothing ean be more awkward
IN encounter. though 1t is perfectly easy
for the animals u escape. In such q
ali, ation. a tropilla is a moving mass OF
stuid,tv each animal keeping close TO
Mo fellows. and all pressing toward
common centre. The Whlste may
screech and the driver add TO the ain
bv opening valves and letting on steam
these terrifying sounds only provoke
STAMPEDE, and the stupid creatures SIM
plv fly the faster In front or the shrlek-
ing monster. But flesh and blood can.
not stand long against steam ana
neither can the train afford to walt
ca bv and by. the engineer concludes
,fot there is no help for II but Just 70
can on all speed and dtsh into me
middle of the herd with the massive
cow-catcher set like batterlns ram.
And then what frightfui screams-"hR.
horrible rounds OF crushing bones anu
sight of quivering limbs ana mangicu
aesh, COS sed right and left. 1t Is over III
a few minutes. but has las-ed sOile
long enough 10 spoil ones appetite 1or
the rest of the day, particularly II he
has happened 10 get a glimpse ot me
,ou.-.atcher covered with hair and blood.
The small towns which are invariably
SGT sone distance from the line. all nave
brick houses and look fairly prosperous
but undressing. except for the human
types collected AT the stations. Inc ma
iority belong 20 the miscellaneous collec-
ton which Europe has sent over ana
most Of them have Latin features win
flashing black eyes. Among the hdllNe
! classes there are ladies in Partisan cos
tunes and Indian women smoking cigar
cites. provincial ge' tlemen wearing
clothes Of London cut, and dark~sklnned
ruachos. or native peasants, in their Pc
culiar costumes. The latter are unique
enough to deserve minute description me
lower eNtremities are covered with "Hi'e
cotton drawers that come down 10 tne
ankles. and are often fringed, or emDroli-
cred to the knee, while the poorer peas.
ants simply wind a piece OF cioth AROUND
tboi, Ices THE drawers are called call
concillas. 49,,
ON ton Of them a square piece OF vol
On cloth is worn, called chiripa' Inc
material varies in quality from the coa's.
est flannel 10 the most expensive cioth ol
v,o,en vienna wool. one straight side III
tho square IS fastened around the waist
by a side leather 0elt, which Is proiusey
o-namented with coins or big silver put
tons and the short ends Of the cloth haIlg
down IN front. The centre OF the stralsht
side. opposite that which Is NIdPpcu
arornd the waist. Is brought up between
the legs in front and tucked firmly under
the belt. the two corners left hanging
loose A chiripa always has the appear
ance Of being just ready 10 drop OH. Inc
square is large enough TO allow plenty VI
room when riding. and as consequence.
when the wearer is walking the 5laCk %
| IL behind, or that part when uoeS uuty
for a seat, falls nearly to the ankles. lou
can imagine what a noble ana erdcelui
fgure a man cuts in this toggery, especial
| ~ when viewed from the rear. WOODEN
shirt covers the upper part OF MS Douy,
tonned by a short deliberately trimmed
Jacket or = pOncho. sometimes by JUN
| The poncho is often very me ana manu-
some with a deep knotted fringe; Out AZ
vavs Is merely a large square or Woueh
cloth. worn by thrusting the head through
a slit I'm the middle. A gaudy hahdker-
chief IS knotted around The throat ana q
sof, wool hat is set far back on the head,
| or stouched down over the eyes, according
- tho beat OF the sun or the state or
the wearer's conscience.
Nowadavs. comparatively few gauchos
wear the old-fashioned boots. maze oy
neeliug the hides off an animals legs
and putting them on their own whlle
| the hides are yet soft and warm leaV'
ing them on to dry and shrink into shape;
but most Of them wear low shoes made
| Of rope and canvas. ike those sold Tor
| bathing purposes at the North. A sharp
pointed knife thrust into the belt, thanked
bv a pistol or two tobacco pouch, few
| pipes and other essentials. complete the
| costume: and when mounted upon his
small wiry horse. riding rapidly along
and fourlshing the thons-like whip that
hangs from his wrist, the gauchO looks
| picturesque and suitably clad. But when
| he dismOunts and begins TO walk, nothing
| can be more absurd than this ungalny
| swaddling. Fortunately, however, he
| seldom walks. AS I'm some Ohio towns, II
| is considered improper and undignihed 20
! cross the streets anywhere except at the
| corners Of the blocks. or as Mexican
Don would feel disgraced for life by car
! rying the smallest parcel. so the gaucho
| looLa upop going anywhere foot as