Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1893-07-27
HOME DRESSMAKING.
A FEW SIMPLE RULES FOR SECUR-
ING A GOOD FIT.
THE MOST DIFFICULT SEAMS OF ALL TO
BASTE-FINIsIIING TIE WAIST AND
SMOOTHING THE SEAMS

copyright, 1893. by American Press Associa-
ton.
To insure a perfect fit a lining ought to
he tried on again before it is basted to the
outside, the seams being left in the second
time, and the whole should fit like wax
After this process it can be bastcd upon tie
outside with rather long stitches
To cut the outside lay one side Of the lin
ing on the double fold and haste it all
around lightly. but firmly and then cut it
exactly the same size as the lining. with III
inch margin to turn in the front for but
tons and buttonholes, and then rip it loose
to baste the lining in permanently.
The lines of hasting down the middle at
the waist line are intended u draw the li-
ing a half an inch fuller there HAN the ont
side. Where the bust Is unusually full
' shaped notch in the lining tapering well
out toward the arm size will he Of great
benefit to the general form, but the outside
must be pulled up and down so that il does
not show. Sometimes n V is also taken
under the arm. These things must he done
on the judgment Of the drcssmaker The
diagram will show how the fullness is to be
adjusted 1t is really more ''fulneSs" than
gathers and Is intended To cause the out
side to draw n little right there at the waist
line where 1t il 50 apt to wrinkle. and thus
the outside remains smooth and firm
When the gathering is done, there should
he a basting down through that part di
rectly in the center OF each piece and when
that is done the h1-tingS around each are
set in in sort Of overland stitch that
max a zigzag, and this makes the firmest
bastiug. The lining should be held inside
The hastings bclag now Sewcd around ev-
cry edge and scam, the different parts can
be hasted together, and il il i feasible the
waist can he tried on again. When the
seams are tasted together. they should al
ways start from the top. and when they are
done they can be stitched up on the ma
chine, great care being taken To sew them
on the out~i'.e oft hastings. as they allow
slack II about two inches
After the waist j. fitted the darts are to
b. cut out. ail"" from one hRIfto three
quarters Of an inch scam, accorLing 10 the
quality ot the goods These seams arc
scwcd. y, ginning from taperinE point. ard
then they are laid apart and pressed flat,
being neatly trimmed and bound or over
cast, and bone cns.ngs are run on.
The front side pieces are held a little full
uud,roAc arm. and If the bust IS very fun
few gathers can be set in with benefit at
the top u this pioce.
The top q the under arm anu side back
pieces arr aptto Sr, stretched, which makes
very unpleasant and nartistic hunch that
nothing can correct To prevent thls run
hasting thread With small stitches cl,s~e
70 tie UPPER edge where lsc XII aro
marked The center back piece, must be
bastcd together. holding them perfectly
straight and plain. 1t IS n good plan to
stick few pins at intervals To Keep them
from slipping or stretching. Tho side back
seams are the most difficult Of all to haste,
and few ~ the best dressmakers even get
them exact The following rules will III
sure success.
!. Ba-tn the right sile fr.t starting ut
the TON holding back opposite the ilve
Ks easy but not full, being careful not
70 stretch the scam at this point. rs il Is
bias Always hold the back next 10 you 2
The back just above the waist line should
he held little fun on the sidc-back at tho
Same position. Before baSing the left side
fasten the seams together with pins two
inches apart holding the back toward You
and Comncnc NJ 70 pin from the top Take
particular care 10 hold the back and side
pieces at the upper marked waist line cx-
actlv rs yen did On the right side; then
baste up the seam, bvSInuiug at the bottom