The Lake Charles echo. [volume] (Lake Charles, Parish of Calcasieu, La.) 1876-1898, 1893-04-21
PROTECTION COATS.
THEY ARE MADE on OLD WoogEN
RAGS GROUND ue.

EAcAMHSu AbeN1<a G0lAHsE1 Ahe NGrAtstzs
man IL Wear shedax ciotIsea Fsow N,
| Artieis i made,
During the whole period of tariff ilia
cusaion no point received % much atten
tion from public speakers ana writers
and aroused % much interest among tht
1 people as the effect watch our outrageous
duties upon raw wool and manufactured
woolena has upon the wool raising III.
dastry Of the country on The ono hand
and the quality of tho clothing worn By
/ tic masses On the other,
| The sheepless shepherds who defended
protection declared that the duty upor
raw wool alone stood between the weol
growers and destruction. and that tht
| duties upon manufactured wooleHs
served to atiffen competition among ON
manufacturers and thus give the people
cheaper and better clothing than theS
could possibly get Ia any other way
The friends of Tariff reform demonstrated
time and again that the result of thess
duties was most grievouss that they d.
stroyed the demand for domestic wool
which would otherwise be used Ia laTgg
quantities Iii admi2tures with foreign
woods, and at tile same time encouraged
the manufacture of tsehoddyA
One of the most interesting oontribu-
tions made il support pf the claim that
shoddy haa taken the place of our do-
meatie grown wool IN the manufacture
cloth, carpets etc, il an article written
BY Mr., nv B Estell and printed ia tile
November supplement- Of the New York
World, MI Eatell ii an agent of the
New York Reform club and under ita
direction nj de an exhaustive exaInilta-
tlan of the Lhoady business He visited
several states aud some Of the Largest
manufacturing establishments ia the
country, if not hi the world, principle
among these being the great shoddY
manufacturing establishment Of Mnhl-
hausser 81 Sons, located at Cleveland
Mr.. Estell goes into the question thar7
oaghly, beginning with The gathering pl
every description Of rags, from tho now
tailor clippings to the filthy relnnanta 81
old clothing gathered from every com
caivahle soRroei tells how they are sorted
according To quality and color, packed "a
large bales bY the local dealers, chen 81 u
to the manufacturers Of shoddy. Hne
processes employed ia converting The
rags into shpddy are described in aninter-
esting manner, accompanied BY illustFa-
tians Of the machinery used,
shoddy Of the best quality is lnaae
from new all wool rags, The rags ara
torn into ahrads by means Of q revolving
cylinder called i'the devil, = covered with
thousands Of short sharp teeth. SO
close do these shTeds resemble real wool
that detection is almost impossible, Tho
shoddy Is mixed with little s'liYe' wool,
spun into yarn and made into the tail
wool' suits we hear 80 much about
Manufacturers thus foist upon tho Amer
lean people clothing which has been
worn out before by four OF hva different
people, The last appearance Of shoddy
as clothing Is ID the foFln of satinats, tho
admixtura Of cotton and shoddy out of
which our s5 suits Of clothing arc made,
Even then we ara not ria of 1t, for III Is
put through another process by which II
Is ground fine as dust, after which II
il called s'floeks4 and used for filling the
cheap mattresses and pillows which The
poorer people buy,
AiF. Estell also tells how the rags In
which wool ana cotton are mixed arc
subjected to various processes which
have for their object the destruction pf
tho cotton, thus leaving the wool, though
ia aI impaired condition, Yet fl to be
torn into shoddy. The 'iunianii goods,
as such rags are called, are bathed in
acids ID some instances and exposed To
gas IN others. The aeida and gas eat the
cotton on other vegetable tihers, leaving
''Wool extraets,'
shoddy and 8woai extractsR are made
into yarn and woYen into cloth, But
since duties have made foreign fine wools
So high that nene but tho rich can afford
genuine all wool suit made of soft
woods many devices have been intro
dneea 70 supply the demands fpr low
priced imitation hna wool suits
One way of making acheap cpatsN ID
to run tho cloth perhaps already half
ghoddy through d 'tiock liquor eon-
tanning wool dust. The dust adheres to
the surface and is pressed firmly into the
cloth by being passed between large
rolls, Another way of giving . soft, vel
YatY taxtnra and af adding to tho weigh
Of cloth consists of ''tlattentnga tha yarn.
This Id accomplished bY blowing 'tlnGks'i
aHd fine shaddy against the threads while
theT ar8 betng twisted into yarn i'll
course cloth made Of such atutl has it's
faults. Ihesei however, arc hidden from
tha Hnwary purchaser III TuFinus Ways
The tioeked' or Hfullad sides "a tha
cloth are pasted together, and the CLOTH
Il then worked mp intu ready made cloth
lng, with opeAings lett III tte lower coz
ncrs of tho Coats to prevent arennnla.
lions If 'foeksa and 'tahnddy.h
Mr, Estell shows how tha growth of
tha shQddy industry has Kept paca with
tlla decline af tlle Maol raising industry,
and Ay quotations from tha nlanafac-
turers ef shoady themsslYes proved that
lshodlYl and not afree woala Is tha
enemy af tlle wool raisers 81 America,
sneh men as MF. MuhlhaAsser II EIave-
lana, tha largest naHntaeEurer 81 shed
ay h America, y not ID the world
ffauklg said tllat khe nAmissiaa oe for-
sign wool into this eGpptrv would luaaI
khs destFlntian of sba shaddY naanutae,
tHrsag hHainaas ane lsetteg lliees II thq
Aspal4ean Ai1eep RruWafs tat theig waal
II Is TIM hSah price, heaanse af tal4H
Duties, which, Qnl Aps1ieAH elrtbllsg
fsitrisl laeiiiRara N9aaf HaK ieK slap seTHlais
Weqti which y isaAisll i9satla n tas nga4l
NfaenFets ~ gaea eldtda Aat
fsaEa So tlle ass Il aaaaas Saataaa