The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1893-10-29

the dull blue. Number two Is an all black
gown of camel's hair, showing three mar
row bands Of astrachan far apart just
as the lace was. Here the same style
cape, but all I'm heaviest, sOftest astra-
chan, falls over. Number three is like
wise biac.-l diagonal-made simply
Just an ... .lar. long Overskirt, falling
over the same sort Of an undershrt. The
overskirt is draped 20 the bodice at the hips
but with little fullness. a plain reyered
bodice is all the waist shows.
But there was a significance about these
quiet gowns. Each woman was the en-
bodiment Of grace. Of good taste, and Of
the latest in gowns. Their simplicity
marked them out from the gay throng
that swept on with them; and the fastld-
iOus, satiated eye quickly discovered
them. More than that, the dresses indl-
Gated that fashion will need 10 adapt it.
self to the assertion Of common sense in
woman. Heavy stuffs, brilliant cOlors,
outre ideas, are all very well for a
brief space in the autumn 10 match
natures glowing tints; but when it comes
TO the winter wardrobe, 20 gowns that
must last for full season, more stabill-
~ is demanded-a shade and a material
that will not be incongruOUs in nine out
Of ten situations. And so &c IS that we
have lapsed from black and white into
all black, and shall branch out from
thence Into the rich browns, the dullest
greens and coppers.
The overskirt is presenting itself I'm
new form daily, although the skirt OF
three distinct rufiles, slightly crinolined
at the edge. or the skirt OF but two rufiles,
with long basque over 20 form a third,
has sufficient of an oyerskirt suggestion
to satisfy many tall women. OF course
the shorter figure never takes the triple
skirt into consideration. The triple COM
binations 90 merrily on, though they are
simply old friends with new faces; and
our arms are large enough % take them
ali in. Here is a plain skirt with three
Of the tiniest rufiies al the edge here
a double skirt, the upper one falling at
two-thirds length, with triple-stitched
edges. A basque that is perfectly plain,
and fastens invisibly al the side forms
the third rullies A slOping 1850 collar.
likewise absolutely foldless, falls over
her ruffled sleeves. A skirt that has a
triple arrangement OF fancy bands starts
with three Of them close together; con-
unues with a double row; and ends In
single twist. Two hip rufiies give su1h-
cient fullness above. a black net has
the triple skirt, and each rufle bears
three satin bands at the edge; and SO
1t goes.
But our oyerskirt IS blooming out IL
Is pretty In its present mild form, and we
are beguiled by its seeming innocence.
The soft way II has OF falling about the
other skirt. the little cascades and scOl-
Tops. are very fetching. But some models
show drapes not half SO graceful that
fall in heavier lines about the hip.
a charming afternoon gown is one Of
dark blue, shot with various dark tints.
A quaint skirt trimming is an arrange
ment Of diagonal bands. pointed al the
top, that run all around the bottom.
The sloDing shoulder collar is different
In that IL runs down 70 a point in front
and back. Al the base OF the standing
collar a short rufiie stands out; all three
have embroidered edges, and the narrow
belt Is OF the same fancy variety. The
balloon sleeve pufls are caught in al three
places.
IL Is a tie between the tailor-made girl
and the overskirt girl; and the former
Is certainly coming out In some OF the
neatest and trlmmest OF skirts that clear
the ground Well SO that she has a free,
easy motion I'm her walk. Something Of
the overskirt IS given to one by a SOU
tache that marks of square scallOps at
the feet, and has three rows Of stitching
beneath, so that his upper part appar-
entity falls over the plain edge beneath,
that is finished with a narrow row OF
white braid. A plain basque has thrae
couarettes, each perfectly straight and