Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-11-01
TERRAPIN SCARCE THIS YEAR.
Indications That Those Who Eat 1t
VIII Pay Dear for 1t.

From the New York Times.
Those who enjoy the diamond-back ter
rapin this year will have to pay well for
their pleasure. The season for catching
terrapin does not open until the 1st of No
vember, but men have been prodding the
marshes and dragging the rivers for them
for several weeks. Their success has not
been great, and they all say that the ter
rapin will be scarce. Last year the count
terrapin, or those that measured six inches
or over, sold for $50 a dozen. while extra
fine ones brought from 81 to so each. Thirty
years ago the same terrapin could be had in
quantities in Baltimore for 80 cents apiece.
The constant and heavy demands from
New York and Chicago and even from
London have sent up. the prices. The in
crease In the number of banquets and ex-
pensive dinners has had it's effect. The
statesmen at Washington have special
fondness for terrapin
There are many kinds of terrapin. and
the dish can be wonderfully cheapened by
Judiclous mixing of common varieties with
d saving quantity of the Chesapeake arti-
cie' ana, unless this were done one-hal If
VI lIe terrapln la Maryland" could not
oe upon the menus of banquets and dinners.
Inc sllders OF the south are generally
useo Tor mixing purposes, and they can be
uao Tor about So or SO a dozen The real
tta a Ep, however. Is the diamond-back of
. me chesapeake, and it gets its special quail
tues from local conditions which no one
exactly understands, but which are sup
posed 10 De due to the growth of water
cress that gives the canVas-baclx duck Of
the same bay a value unknown to anv other
ducks in the world
"A contest In terrapin cooking took place
last year between the champion cooks of
the clubs of Baltimore and PhiladeIphia.
oils inns Lao
terrapin dishes, but they have radically
diHerent receipts. Baltimore exalts the raw
article, and cooks it as plainly as possible.
flour and wine
Two rich young men of Baltimore and
Phiiadeiphia bet 800 each upon their re-
spectfve cities. The terrapin experts of the
TWO towns were enlisted in the contest and
they were busy for several months getting
the finest terrapin that could be found
Ihese were gentleman cooks for the cook
ing or terrapfn Is a social accomplishment
In Maryland, and many Of the young men
those who can afford it-are noted for
their skill. In the course of time the con-
test came off. and Baltimore won by the
handsome score of 10 to 6.
The Baltimore cooking SUPERVISED nv
Frank Fl. Hambleton. the engineer of the
largest system of rapid transit in Balti-
more. of which his father is president, pro-
ceeded as follows:
The terrapins were first boiled until the
skin of the claws was sufficiently soft to
rub off at the slightest touch. They were
then taken out, and the shells were re-
moved. The terrapins Were opened, and
every particle of entrails was thrown away
The meat was placed in chatting dish,
and butter, pepper and salt We're added.
The contents of the dish We're allowed to
simmer until the essence and butter reached
the consistency Of light gravy. The dish
was served while hot. Wine could be added
afterward but not in the cooking
The Philadelphians destroyed the flavor
of their dish by the use of flour and spices
and wine. and, finally, by putting on a COW
ering of rich Newberg dressing, which
made the dish look and taste like any Or
binary salad.
Some rich epicures get their terrapin
supply at the beginning of the season. The
terrapin Is the cheapest boarder in the
world. He will live nothing the entire
winter. and weigh the same in the spring
as he did in the fall