Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-02-11
Wakema3's Ua3deri3es.
ODD INCIDENTS OF FORI;IGN TRAVEL AND
OBSERVATION.

westerly extensions Of Ireland; are three
In number; and lie In direct line south
west OF Port Magec. The first. and the
least, Is called Lemon Rock. II Is a
round. solid mass rising only few feet
above the water. The second and next
larger is called Little, or Lesser Skellig,
and is craggy grouping Of rocky pinn-
acles, standing grim and black against
the sky; as though some city OF churches
with wondrous steeples had been sub
merged, rearing above the waves their
mighty Gothic spires, among which
millions OF sea.birds had found their
desolate homes.
The third, the Great Skellig, Is precise
" nine miles at sea from Port Magee.
1t is an enormous and precipitous mass
Of rock rising perpcndicularly at nearly
all angles to the height OF several
hundred feet, and from thence pushing
skyward stupendous, irregular groups,
terminating in two lofty pinnacles. the
highest Of which reaches an altitude Of
7io feet. II is said that the ocean sound.
ings around It are far deeper than those
in any part Of the English channel; and
at no other point upon the whole At
lantic are witnessed such awful battles
between wave and stone. The base OF
the only lighthouse now in use upon
a icveiied rock, 40 feet above the sea,
and the roof Of this lofty structure was
few years ago crushed In and partly
carried away by the assaults Of the
waves, which must have been lifted up.
wards Of I8o feet above the sea.lcvel to
have been dashed upon III
A determination to land upon and
scale Great Skellig rock Is more easily
formed than is the project performed;
for certain destruction attends attempted
landing. save when old ocean may be
caught mapping and fora few hours quite
ut rest. Every day for nearly week,
with Kerry fisherman friend, arose
before day and tramped to the cliffs
below Port Magee for forecast OF wind,
weather and sea. AT last propitious
day came. With my friend and three Of
his hardy companions we set forth In a
strong open boat with the outgoing tide
from the tiny pier OF the port, and with.
out stroke OF oar we're soon sweeping
through the southern entrance Of the
harbor Of Valentia. .lr
The sea was perfectly calm as we LEFT
the channel, save where imperceptible
distant swells. massing upon the half
hidden ledge that protects the harbor
entrance. flung glittering spume and
spray landward behind US. Over to the
west, Bray Head rose precipitously
1000 feet out Of the water. Beyond
this, innumerable fishers sails blended
like huge oncoming surge at the edge
OF the horizon. To the left, grim head
lands stretched away In dark projec-
tons to far Bolus Head; and the long,
regular stroke OF the oarsmen soon sped
us past Putin Island. In an hour and a
hall. we were alongside Lemon Island
lying like some sleeping half.hidden
monster to our right; and in two hours
time we had come abreast OF Little
Skellig.
Here we were favored with character
istic sight. This island is the only one
of the Irish coast where the putin
haunts and breeds In countless numbers.
Taking advantage OF the placid sea,
perhaps three score coastwise folk were
here seeking these fowl within the
assures and cleits Of the crags. Many
aerial battles between men slung with
ropes from dangerous heights and the
birds they were mercilessly seeking
were seen In progress as we passed.
The eggs and flesh Of the putin are
eaten; their feathers are dried and sold;
and a ,rfling traffic is carried on in
picked. or cured. puiiins which are ex'
changed for potatoes and meal with the
country folk Of the lveragh wilds.
At last the Great Skellig was reached,
and we made landing without difficulty
at the only spot upon which foot eau be
set from the sea. begged the boatmen
TO climb the crags with me. but they
shook their heads gravely and refused.
The reason for this, as related by my
fisher friend who consented TO
accompany me, was on account OF
certain portenlious superstitions the
peasantry and fishermen tenaciously
hold regarding the spot. The only
human beings now living upon Great
Skellig are those having Charge of the
lighthouse.
But more than thousand years ago,
hundreds, II not thousands, passed their
lives in religious devotions upon this
wild sea-mountain; for this place was
then the St. Michael's Mount OF Ireland.
Its history was luminous even in the
earliest days OF Christianity in Erin. a
majestic monastery once stood in the
little valley between the two lofty peaks
Of the island. From the single landing.
place, Gao stone steps, many portions OF
which remain, led to the monastery, the
great cashel, the oratories, the stone
cells, the ancient burial place, and many
unrecorded structures which the in
calculable toll and jealous conservation
Of remote age grouped within this
sacred spot. Easily traced remains of
nearly all these structures still exist, and
fragments OF gigantic crosses here and
there push through the strange debris,
whose contemplation cannot but send a
thrill through the least impressive
heart.
Far, far above this tens OF thousands
Of pilgrims In the intervening centuries
have climbed. Near the top OF the
highest pinnacle one must squeeze
through a narrow oriiice called the
Needles Eye, in oroer to follow their
olden painful way. Just beyond this is
narrow ridge or saddle Of solid rock
One must get astride this and work
along with legs and hands until an
ascending shelving rock is reached.
The danger here is terrible. One false
movement, and you are plunged head
long into the sea from either side From
this to the highest point any fairly sure
footed man may pass securely TO the
slender yard.wide summit along which
are found rudely-sculptured crosses, or
stations.
have been in some eerie spots in
my travel, but never before have |