The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1893-07-14

The first thing to be done in the making
of dress Is to cut and fit the waist. 1t is
a simple matter, but requires order enough
to allow the dressmaker to Keep track of all
her belongings. When ready to begin work,
let the young dressmaker take IL large piece
Of stiff cartridge paper and start from the
right straight edge with her measurement
The person to be fitted stands with her
hands on her hips, and the tapeline is
passed around the body close under the
arms and over the bust and brought to the
back and the figures taken. The length of
the back Is taken, the front from the top of
the shoulder to the waist line and to the
throat. Then under the arms, and finally
around the waist and wherever the tape is
outlined on the diagram.
When themeasurements are set down, the
dressmaker takes her pencil and rule and
marks the first line four inches from the
edge of the paper and brings it down in a
slanting line tQDne-half inch Of the edge at
the waist line. She then divides the bust line
in three, giving onethird its length to the
back and two-thirds to the front and side
front, making dots where the measure
comes. The front, from throat to waist
line, Is then measured and the neck shaped
outfrom the high line to the low one, which
gives IT about the right form, which can be
cut out more II needed when tried on.
The basque shape is the foundation Of all
dressmaking, but as just now the waists are
unusually short it can be cut off at the
waist line or little below it. When the
lady to be fitted is stout, the lines on the
diagram will show how to add to the width
without destroying the symmetry.
The darts form very important part in
the appearance of gowns. but there is no
SEE rule tnac can apply TO Cnem. The waist
bust Is slender the darts should not be
taken deep. If full or very full they can be
made deeper, according to the need, and the
front may be slanted, If so desired, so as to
throw added fullness where it is required.
Nor can the length of the darts be decided
until the figure of the lady is seen. Some
need high seams, some low ones, but the
average is about five inches above the waist
line, tapering to point, and about one inch
cut away In the center. This can only be
determined in trying on.
When all the pieces belonging to q waist
eight in all, though they are cut in pairs
which are exactly alike-have been outlined
with dots according to the measures. they
can be marked out with a pencil and then
cut. The lining should be then laid fiat
and the cartridge paper diagram laid over it
andthe pattern marked on the lining, which
must be cut on the straight. Cut, allowing
one full inch all around except in front for
the seams. In front allow two inches for
turning in.
! The dress material should be laid fiat and
cutout exactly the same size as the lining.
The darts should not be cut out until the
lining has been tried on, though their posi-
tions can be marked.
The lining, If not silk, should be cambria
or silesia, or, for heavy dresses, of drilling.
The crosswise thread must be on an even
line with the waist line
In cutting both lining and outside one
should practice placing the diagram so as
to cut to the best advantage, as this Is very
important, and In cutting the different parts
1t Is we'll to cut them by twos, the cloth be-
Ing properly folded, so that you may not
gettwo pieces for the same side, which often
happens with beginners.
When the waist Is cut out. haste the lin
Ing together, beginning all seams at the
top, and then try it on, with the seams on
the outside. Pin the fronts together, leav-
Ing the edges to stand outward and then
get the size right around the waist, and
after that pin the darts and seams to con-
form absolutely with the figure. Do not
try to mold the figure to the dress.
When sure that the waist is, so to call it,
nodded to the body, press back the front
edges so that the pinholes will strain lit
tie, see that the arm sizes and neck are COM
Portable and that it does not bind anywhere
or wrinkle, and then slip off the waist and
pull the seams very little, enough to show
just where the seams should be, now that
the lining Is fitted. AS soon as this is done
rip apart the lining and cut away all super
fuous edges, though IL the measurements
are carefully taken there should be scarce
ly anything to cut away. The lining is then
ready to be basted to the material.
OLIVE HARPER.