Blackfoot news. (Blackfoot, Idaho) 1891-1902, 1893-10-21
UNCLE SAN A TAILOR.
The MAKING AND SALE OF
ARMY AND NAVY SUITS.
The souadsss Material al the Lowest
Prise Is the Portioa Of the 80 sler Boys
and the Jack Tzrz-Dlscalty Of Chsat-
InS Enrls sAE1asL

g =@---+aa - - 1850 $3.50 -#+ANH-
{ above cost. says the san Francisco
I Chroniele. There are three elotkisg
supply depots connected with the
army. one o. them in a Low, square
( Building beneath the Palace hotel on
New Montgomery street. ian Fran
cisco This establishment. among
I its many functions. makes uniforms
and underclothing for enlisted men
( Upon this kind Of work an average
Of 25l persons are employed for
eight months Of the year. Most Of
the sewing women are widows o.
soldiers Captain e. w Williams
has charge % the clothing and
eguipage branch Of the depot
and makes the inspections % work
and material A piece Of kersey
must be sound in every fiber OF. il
will not pass his rigid tests The
cloth Is 6r-t weighed 10 see II il
meets government requirements.
Then II is run over reel and ex-
amined frCm the diverse side With a
strong light in front Il a single
. hole or haW is seen the Eiece j. dis
qualified. A careful measurement Of
the material follows and then the
pulling test Is made This consists
in a stretching process n a machine
with a dial. Blouse flannel 70 be
passed must stand a pull Of twenty
three pounds 10 the inch II itgiyes
way. even 10 the extent % thread.
the dial pointer tells the story. 4
scOrchiug process j. used 20 develop
the threads in the texture and ascer-
tain their number. To pass exami-
nation each piece OF cloth must have
sixty threads 10 the inch 10 the
warp and ftty-two 70 the dlIinz.
piece OF cloth j. passed back and
forth before a horizontal gas Jet and
the nap burned of. Then. with q
needle. the crisp fbers are separated
and counted.
To find out whether ..all wool"
goods have cotton IN them a bath
has been devised which eats the wool
and leaves the cotton in evidence.
The ixity Of the cOlors is tested by
acids When the material Is pro-
nounced sound and in conformity
with the regulations il goes 20 the
cutter, tailor and sewing women
The labor Of each Is examined almost
micFoscOpically and woe to the per-
son who has botched a task. The
rule that when the clothing Is issued
il must be as near perfection in
quality. make. color and staying
power as anything that weavers,
and dyers can create admits Of no de-
linquencies
An outfit Of clothes tested and
made in this way would command a
premium among men who willingly
pay from $50 70 $40 a suit for their
apparel Yet the total cost OF the
clothing to the government AID 70
its customer, the enlisted man. Is as
follows:
Fine flannel blouse. noncommis-
stoned officer. SE8j; trousers, 81 %;
total, 1881
White duck blouse, 81. q; trousers,
S1.O7: total. 81. %
Canvas blanket-lined overcoat,
equal to buffalo ulster in warmth.
and imFenetrable to the wind and
rain. 5000
Full dress uniform coat, nOncom-
missioned officer. best quality kersey,
s.. a.; trousers. So 80; total, SI2.42.
Kersey overcoat. with cape. lined
with fine warm flannel, S1L62.
Corresponding prices obtain in
other items Of military supply.
Uncle sam. after buying his material
Of the manufacturers and paying the
regular price for making it up, sells
the product at cost Officers uni
forms are not made at the depots. but
kersey may be bought for them there
at $l.8O a yard. Enough stock Is
kept on hand for / ,50O men, and it in
cludes everything a soldier needs
from a cork helmet TO an undershirt.
Twelve sizes Of trousers are always
in stock and six sizes OF uniform
coats. In such an assortment a re-
cruit usually finds a good fit, though
if he happens TO be Of uncommon d.
mansions he IS measured and his uni
form Is made to order. Kersey cloth
is about Of the quality that goes into
the everyday business suits It has
a rougher nap than English dress
EOpA7g 1AAb ~ - A1CA III Ell6 uullOFIuS
Of army officers, a class which is
habitually well dressed. Every Of
ficer is required to possess two fun
suits, one for smart occasions and
another for fatigue duty. The en-
listed man is similarly supplied, ex-
cept that he also has a working suit
OF brown canvas. In severe climates
extra clothing, as well as fur hats
and mittens, is issued. The navy has
manufacturing AID supply depot at
Brooklyn, but every ship that goes
on cruise takes a stock Of cloth
and trimmings and a complement Of
tailors. Many seamen, particularly
those Of the old school, make their
own uniforms and tarpaulin hats.
drawing the material at cost price
from the ships stores. This item of
cost is figured down at the supply
depot and is known to cent
The Vanishing Of spirits.