New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-02-12
HOME AND SOCIETY.
CHAT OF THE SEASON.
r,ov PARIs-No CRISoLINE-CIGARETTE-
,,or1xe; woMEN-soME FoERIGN DISHES

,,orr xf, WOMEN-SOME FOEHlUN DlouEo
WHAT MEN ARE TO WEAR.
..onc American who has just arrived from |
Nth no end OF pretty gowns, gives the latest [
F'i tom the great French fashion authorities, as
wv" aNo | saw no hoopskrts anywhere not |
'rsn the slightest approach TO one athousn am
eve" .Ss thew are actually displayed for sale In
'o" - Now York OF course. a little stiff crinOlinc !
AHop m,ss,ble and two dressmakers In Paris |
81 running wire along the bottom OF tie skirt. |
VI" ,on that was not success among fashionable |
D Az Doucet's and Worth's they are MAKING
WIN, M costumes intended for crnollne. All the
however. they are and all very mysterious
SOM , canning STYLES and affect great secrecy Madame
s0 so,,or order very little just now. they told me
ha' cet,s where l get nearly all nv gowns. for
in he radical changes before long, But when
Nv what they were they only looked wise and
-, not tommit themselves. SO what these changes
% no | cannot even guess: but do not think
,s orjnollne, for that has been talked about SO
,bat II would be novelty, and think 1t has
NV -, day before II ever eXsted-tO use an Irish
' raybaps following the tendency OF the day, the
ssnokers mean TO make a 'combine'-a trust. N0u
ia call it here-and force us to wear any
w. they like OF course that would make all our
=, GOWNS quite useless and We would have to buy
- But one thing is ceraln-they are all reti-
~. and all hint at changes So we may prepare
s".ss,ves for something interesting. Just now the
90 s,ve is more in vogue than anything else. and
- =, oor,aiuly not becoming. The skirts are so gored
,n, they hang In flutes around the bottom and are
=. last Eve yards around. If 1t were not for the
." tho skirts would be dreadfuly heavy; but as
:, +, they are not at all uncomfortable. only ugly, for
,hor look lust like an umbrella-cover with the riDs
slipped out ana nave really Na'uN any i0'0' " '"'
waist. , W., 49,
Won ask which is the more popular, Worth or
,Orcst now Wei, / should say DOucet decidedly
q, tho beau monde, and Worth for actresses. Worth
has genius certainly. but lis things are overturned:
ubne Doucets cachct consists In his admirable sim
ua,y which, combined with style. is veritable art.
n me. although l suppose 1t is treason to say so.
wor,b,s creations, with all their richness look just
= little old-fashioned There is really very little
adherence between gowns l have brought home and
those I saw made in the beginning OF the winter
the sleeves are little different. perhaps, In That
they are made with the extreme fulness hanging
hsov the shoulder, the effect Of the long shoulder
bepg very much heightened by little shrring across
tbe top which forces the fulness down rather than
an, A regular grandmother's sleeve, you see' she
continued shaping out the SOFT full bengaline lego
mutton shape of a dress she was showing. land
another thing you generally notice about Doucets
waists Is that they have as rule, no seams either
In the front the back. sometimes one has single
one In the centre of the back with the material put
on disronally. The lining is first perfectly fitted on
then the outside material is basted and fitted to
the figure by drawing the folds to the front and
together at the centre Of the back. Except for
dinner gowns and very grand ball dresses Tor older
women there are no trains. Street costumes, thank
goodness are made quite Short and reception toilees
only just touch.'
1t is an open secret that many women in society
drink great deal more than is good for them They
take antipyrine TO drive off the effects OF the cham
payne, and champagne TO drive off the effects OF the
snupyrine," said cynical man OF the world the other
day sand then no wonder that they have nervous
prostration and all that /"
Cigarette smoking, too, Is greatly on the Increase
among women and the tiny little fragrant Russians
are passed u the women with the liqueurs and cafe
noir matter Of course after dinner In many smart
houses. How shocked OF the stiff and eminently
proper danes Of yore would be If she could see her
fin de steele prototype quite at home among her
ntmates OF her own sex after dinner, leaning DacB
ASsiast her hsNdozen cushions and smoking cigar
cite I'm dainty fashion, with her pretty feet peepnG
very obviously from under her silken robel
houghtless flnatrred remarks is almost incaculabe.
Many woman who owes her certain kind Of popu-
larty to the sharp, INSCRIPTIONS tongue with which
she entertains her convives. probably never dreams
Of the sorrow and trouble that may be created BY
her careless words: and yet friends have been
sundered, lovers parted, and regulations injured BY
some thoughtless, inatured speech. which grew and
assumed proportions as II spread. Many, doubtless,
have read the pathetic little tale called "The Auto
biography Of a SANDER" which came out last summer
q book which ought TO do world OF good by en-
bodying In visible results what may ensue from
chance unkind remark that happened to be pure sur
mise with no foundation whatever, but which, re-
peated as fact, grew rapidly into an actual SANDER
How wish l could bring home to that woman the
unhappiness she has caused !" said lady the other
day In speaking of one Of the witty gossps Of the
town. but she will never know, nor believe II she
were told, the actual troubles that have been the
results Of her tongues excess"
As a social function the dinner dance is decidedly
selfish and has provoked more feelng and Jealousy
during the past and caused a greater amount
Of anger and bitterness than would have deemed
possible The fact Is 1t has furnished too conver-
lent an excuse to "draw the line not TO have been
eagerly seized by the exclusive "hundred or so' that
have constituted themselves. as 1t were, the inner
circle OF society. But. like other fashion,
other sets have taken up this latest fad, and by
next winter II will undoubtedly be such a general
form Of entertaining that 1t will cease to be pecu-
LARRY distinctive, II 1t has not already become so.
Divers efforts made In New-Iaven TO organize a
series of dinner dances have resulted it is reported,
In dire Quarrels and heartburnngs. Those who have
been "leit out' for no reason except caprice or
individual prejudice are said TO be breathing 1orth
threatenings and slaughter; while the refusal Of
some Of the most important members Of the most
important to join the affair has made the project
limp considerably.
Some Of the large shop windows Just now are very
all,ring with their spring novelties. In one large
establishment an entire window is devoted to wash
fabrics In the loveest tints imaginable. each piece
Of goods being drawn together In folds TO Initiate
slender waist and confined With ribbon of the same
color tied with long bows and ends. OF course every
woman passing magnes herself In one OF these charm
nsly simple gowns and either goes and buys one or
longs ~ do so.
The coming parasol is very elaborate ahalr In
deed, with It's ruchings and It's founcings and It's
ribbons. The more gauzy and floating" II as the
better, and Of the designs look not unlike
an elaborate lamp shade. Hand painted parasols are
much liked whether in silk or muslin: and artificial