The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1893-02-13
COOKING eggs.
Some Excellent Recipes for PaIatable
Dishes.
Various Ways in Which They are
Prepared in France and
Elsewhere.

Victor Hugo WAS accustomed to say
that there were few things more inher
he never broke the shell of one without a
dim apprehension that the unexpected
might suddenly make its appearance. 1t
is certain that very strange things have
from time to time come out of eggs. in
addition to the chicken which they should
normally produce.
When the luxury of the Second French
Empire was at its hight and the practice
of giving Easter eggs was carried to a
hitherto unheard of degree OF extrava-
gance, it is said that Mile Hortense
Schneider, the once renowned heroine
of opera-boutfe, received Paschal pres
ent purporting to be an egg of such huge
dimensions that it had to be carried up
opened the egg was found to contain an
elegant Victoria, drawn by two cream
colOred ponies.
But it is only with eggs in connection
with cookery that l am at present treat
ing, and am bound solemnly to admit
that people rarely do sufficient culinary
justice to the appetiZing offerings OF Dame
Partlet, the Hen. Boiled eggs tor break
fast, fried or Doached with bacon or ham,
hard-boiled eggs in salad. and in sauce for
salt fish, scrambled or mixed with rice
when one has mentioned them the cata-
lOgue of egg preparations has been pretty
well exhausted.
Eggs are, OF course, used to pro-
digious extent in the making of cakes
and buildings, but the French probably
use many more millions of eggs every
year in the making OF those omelettes in
the confection OF which very few of other
cooks are even toleraOly proficient. A
simple omelette should be made solely
and exclusively OF eggs; but there exists
a preposterous delusIon that milk, and
even hour, may be added to the mixture
in the pan, the result being the produc-
ton of soggy, lumpy, indigestible
mass, which Is frequently fried dingy
brown instead OF pale golden hue.
You will find below very few care
; fully thought out recipes for savory egg
dishes. W hen l tell you that the chef OF
the Duke of Bedford once wrote little
book of his composition in which there
were at least hundred and fifty recipes
Tor dressing eggs, you Will be able To
! form an idea OF the variety and skill
which the French possess in dressing this
emlnently paIatable and nourishing food
; Here are some recipes:
Eggs in cases-Cut up sheet of paper
into pieces of three inches square, turn
, up Hall al luCu all ROUND SO as To form q
kind of square case; there will then re.
main but two inches square on the in
side. Take small piece of butter, pinch
! of line bread crumbs, little fine.
l chopped parsley, spring onions, salt and
? pepper and mix them together: put lit.
tie into each case, then break one egg int
eacn, put them on u gridiron, over slow
. fire, and do them gently, or place then
7 in dish i'll an oven; when well set, serve
Small, round paper cases may be pro-
l cured very cheap.
Eggs a la Tripe-Take some eggs thai
1 have been boiled for seven minutes anC
shell and slice them. Butter the dish il
= which they are to be served, place thiI
Z layer of creamy sauce on the bottom, anC
i, on this place layer of the sliced eggs
: sprinkling lightly with little finely
> chopped eschalot and fresh parsley; ado
another layer of the sauce and then the
eggs as before, and continue in like man.
, ner until the dish is nearly full. Let the
sauce be on the top, and sprinkle over
d this few Drowned bread crumbs anC
; about half an ounce of butter broken il
. tiny pieces; set the dish in pan con
tanning boiling water, and stand i'll no
: oven tor about fifteen or twenty minutes
y then take up, remove the dish from the
: tin and sprinkle the top over with the
> hard-b boiled yolk of egg that has beer
: passed through a fine sieve and little
. chopped parsley.
Curried Eggs-Peel three onions, Gu
u them in very thin slices and put then
J into a stewpan with two ounces of fat OF
. butter, and two ounces of chopped leaf
u bacon; add two fnely-chopped bay
> leaves and a sprig of chopped thyme
:, fry these all together for about fifteer
u minutes, till a nice golden brown; theI
q lightly sprinkle i'll a tablespoonful of fine
= flour: add teaspoontul of cardamons
one small scraped Glove of garlic, salt
nj Of nd
!; der, and salt, pinch OF ground ginger
u three-quarters OF a pint of any ligh
y stock or milk, and boil ali together til
. the mixture is almost dry. Add to i
70 twelve sliced hard-boiled eggs; theI
serve on hot dish, in border of plainly
/, boiled rice, garnished with little bunche
- of hard-b boiled yolk of egg that have beef
- rubbed through wire sieve, and shred
~ ded with green capsicums.
Eggs With Burnt Butter.-Put into
frying pan two ounces of butter, which
melt; as soon as it is on the point o
l. browning, put in the eggs, which hav
been previously broken in basin, an(
seasoned with pepper and salt; when wei
% ''set," serve, with a teaspoonful OF vine
III gar over the eggs.
= Randalled Eggs.-Twelve eggs boilet
" hard and halved; cut a piece from tn
y ends of half of them to allow them L
II stand, take out the yolks, chop them, anC
u mix chopped boiled ham or tongue sea
- son with nutmeg and mace, moistel
L with butter, and put it in the spac
u within the egg. Put the halves together
~ and stand the Joined eggs on end III tn
" dish.
ie Eggs Brouilles.-Break four or 81,
eggs; beat them and put them into
az saucepan with piece of butter, a littl
IS salt, and spoonful of gravy, whic
u makes the eggs softer; stir them over tn
J, fire until sufficiently thick serve on
~ plate garnished with toasted bread. L
10 eggs dressed this way, truffles, ham
,, mushrooms, etc., minced, may be added
~ In Ireland where it is in general use, it
+ usually served upon hot buttered toast
y Il and is there called ''buttered eggs" /
~ ~ is also very common in France, where
IA is usually served Tor breakfast.
~ Frothed Eggs-beat up the yolks {
u, eight eggs and the whites of four Use
y aside the remaining whites) with
~ deSsertspoonful of water, some salt, suga
80 and the juice of lemon; fry this, an
VI then put it on a dish; whip the fou
:, whites (which were set aside to a frot
IN IN with sugar, and place 1t over the frie
~ eggs; bake it in Dutch oven.
10 Eggs Hashed-Boil eggs hard, sliC
40 them; fry an onion sliced in butter: pr
" in the eggs; a little good gravy, choppe