New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15
A WOMAN IN CUBA.
METAL BEDSTEADS AND COSTUMES.
STREET AND MARKET SCENES IN HAVANA AND



MATANzAS.
Havana, Dec 2O-A woman spending short
holiday in Cuba makes no attempt TO erapple
with the sugar question, nor does she i'll The
least take in the political situation. She only
looks about her with keen, observing eyes, 70
zee how people arc living, how they dress what
their houses are like, and what there Is in their
shops, their streets and :hcir markets My irst
day in Havana offered rapid succession oil vary
ing scenes, such as the gradual approach u Tue
harbOr Notifications. the picturesque haipOr. 'hc
gay-colored city in rich mi>ts OF sunshine the SAIL
from tho steamer TO The landing in small boat
with q canvass hood over tile Stern like an oid-
fashioned cradle, the drive over rough paVemcnts
through narrow streets 70 the hotel, ana the mid-
day brea kfast OF unusual dishes. But one oil the
pleasantcst surprise in reserve when en-
tered my room. II was a glimpse oi cuban pea
This bed had an iron frame, with posts al tue
four corners supporting light canopy. ihc
posts were painted with wreaths or led roses
the head and foot boards were similarly decorated,
and over all hung canopy of delicate lace, ucd
back OH each side with scarlet satin ribbons. a
hounce of the satin hung at the top Of the canopy,
and another like valence around the lower frame
work beneath the light mattress. lie relnalhih"
furniture OF the room was commonplace. but inns
beautiful bed made il picturesque ~ was IL
source of delight 10 me as often Is entered 'he
room.
In the course Of my subsequent shopping en-
.ursions / saw many Of these beds. Sometimes
they were ornamcnted with brass mcdallions. ana
then again they wer, inlaid with mother OF pearl.
The prices ranged from 81. 10 SOD. Inc
prettiest one ] saw anywhere was IN Matanzas,
where arrived after scoichng rail-
way journey OF several hours. and long. dusty,
jolting drive from the station to the centre OF
the town. What delight il was after mounting
steep stone staircase. and crossing bare forlorn-
looking parlor to enter 4 bedroom that was a
perfect little gem in its way 1t was lighted py
a broad window opening on a balcony opposite
the Cathedral. The flor was covered with cool
looking tiles There were wardrobes ana clothes
press.s of dark. old-lashioned wood. rOOiny wash
stands and inviting armchairs; but what gave
especial charm TO the room was the bed standing
in the centre of il as if to challenge admiration
The head and foot boards were painted in spanish
coast scenes delicatcly inlaid with mother OF
pearl, and the light iron frame Supported 4
canopy of lace as fine and dainty as fairy work
The parlor of "a Cuban hotel is a square hall
into which bedrooms open. 1t Is furnished with
q nisno and a writing desk in addition to the
centre table and !; double row of cane-scated
armc!rairs This is the only spot where guest
can entertain u caller. On the ilrst moor tierc
is sometimes a dining-room. but oltener u large
opcn space, with the office Oh one sue ana the
restaurant ON the other: and if one be Of
rowing disposition there is nothing TO prevent
her finding herself q little further along. in the
midst OF the rows Of charcoal braziers which con-
stitute a Cuban kitchen. Very savory dishes are
brought out from this kitchen by the dappcr
little Cuban walters. The soups are generally
thick with bits of meat. beans. and various I'M
recognizable fragments. but have an excellent
flavor The fish is fine and well cooked. lhc
salads are fresh and well dressed The meats are
not so good, being too fresh-killed; but the en-
trees and fancy dishes are excellent lie desserts
are meagre, an occasional ice or custard Deihg
offered in addition TO the native preserved FRUIT
which is very rich and sweet. There are also
cheescs of fine flavor The genuine Spanish dishes
are superior to the imitation French cooking
served at some of the larger hotels
or home interiors the tourist can see but little
for the Cubans guard their homes lealously. Ihe
doorways are on level with the street. ana
large enough for a carriage to drive III lie
entrance court is paved and the family carriage
Ia kept there, the hOrses being taken to stable
opening into the inner court. around which the
house is built From the entrance hall an iron
staircase leads to the second story. Large 'r9p-
hall. and a porter is always on duty there. The
windows are as large as four ordinary American
windows and are entirely without glass. Those on
the ground floor are barred with iron; the upper
v;ndovs omen on Dal cries: and all have folding
inside shutters In the hotels and the best houses
the floors are tiled ami the ceilings are very hl9h
often eighteen or twenty feet. The doors inside
ara made about one-third the height OF the door
WAYS and are hung in pairs, which swing on
double hinges either way. These doors are
decorated with panels Of coOred glass. in fanci'u
designs illustrating faiy tales or classical scenes
The doorway is hung with lace curtains ana ~
closed by folding shutters like those at tie WIN
dows. The furniture is largely made Of cane ana
entirely without upholstery.
The mild climate makes il possible fer women
10 wear light. airy costumes all the year rohhu
Indeed. dress of woOllen material or any heavy
fabric seems unknown. Black lace is the favortc
material for dresses among the upper classes
Cuban ladies are seen in The shops or N the
streets in dresses OF Lack lace. the waist cnt half
low both hack and front and the sleeves reaching
only to the elbow. \ mahtila IS thrown grace
fully over the head, and drapcd loosely about the
sh0ulders The r,antilIa is the prevailing head
dress for rich and poor alike varying from the
finest Spanish lace of silk TO the coarsest cotton
Imitation. but invariably black for the street.
church or drvng-white being reserved for full
dress White lawns with SNOWY colorcd figures
arc popular, as well as challcs. yelling ana
grenadines. These are generally made up with
one skirt and fancy waist, and ale often elab-
orately trimmed with ribbons. Lavender is the
most popular color. and is worn in all its nuner-
aus shades without regard to the clearness OF the
complexion. This may be because Cuban women
do not allow the natural tint of the skin to be
seen, 90 thickly do they powder their faces which
gives them an unnatural. chalky look. The
colored people display their innate love Of dress
to advantage. A favorite device is 90 dress from
head 10 foot In one tint l saw one ncgr"ss as
black as ink attending mass at the Cathedral IN
Havana with complete costume OF salmon color