Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-08-23

ing part docs not count In the measure, for
that l. arbitrary. Sometimes II h very
high and at other times not more than 10
give tho necessary fullnoss to make 90 set
we'll.
The under portion should be- three inches
narrower than tho outside. Tho measure
for width shuuld bo taken around the wrist
and at the top just where tho seams Join.
Aaitis quite a little trouble To- measure
and diagram for % new pattern every time,
the clever drcssmnkor will draft one or two
good sleeve modols-fo long, slim arm and
for short, plump ouc-and keep them al
ways ready whore by a minute'a work in
measuring for width aud length amy lady
can be lifted with sleeve
The next thing il TO cut Tor balloon sleeve,
which 10 now Ia its various notifications
the favoritr This can be easily done by
following tho main features Of the diagram.
Tho pull eau be "a full or scant as the wcarur
desires, and II T. usually cut on the cross oi
the goods, deep enough Co reach tho elbow,
and ia gathered where the marks are. II
can he shircd at the top and tho fullncsa
thereby turned downward, or IL can be- cut
trihc higher aud gathered In with the
lining II y 20 DO bustod on tho lining and
rewed and afterward drawn upward aud
gathered and haatcd ut the top " the sleeve.
Tho front sleeve sean can then be sowod and
the sleeve finished on The outer seam
should have been sewed before Tho lower
arm portion should have had tho outside
cut and firmly bastcd 20 the lining and
scwed up with the whole. The wrists are
now finished By n narrow piping and are
faced with ailk, aud tho best dtcssmakcrs
sprinkle n little violet or Orrs puwderalong
In the scam. Where the wrists are 10 fare
"a tribe and with all fine dresses an inter.
lining ofwigan Is made at tho wrists TO keep
them smooth.
The pun may be heightened FROM two to
four inches and Bhrrcd directly IN tho mid,
die, while tho rest Is treated as for a single
pun. or II can be held ia by ribbon baud.
All the variations are suggested by the fash.
ion publications, and the drcssmakcr eau
develop thsm from the foundation model,
The leg Of mutton sleeve being just now
very fashionable aud very difficult 20 make,
careful diagram u Given, which amy lady
can follow who will draft the diagram un u
scale Of hn iueh 20 'ouceighth Of an inch
This IL very stylish sleeve aud Is we'll
adapted 10 all materials The sleeve Joins
only on Que side, and all the iullucss comes
on the upper part. The lining TO this-.t
lining il uscd-s cut just like the outside
and should DO Of Hight texture.
The slooyoa should be cut 30 that the line
marked straight 10 20 with the thread. II
the goods Of which tho sleeves arc made IL
narrow, the seam must ho made ON the
cross, a. the diagonal line must DO on the
true bias When cut aud bastod carefully,
the plaits should be laid Ia "a marked and
firmly fastened and the two places marked
g brought together 80 that Il COMES over
the three plaits and thctwu As meet. Then
the seam should be baytsd and scwed, when
the result will be real leg Of mutton
sleeve, like the diagram, and the plain part
on The top allows for n bertha or brrtell0
without throwing 10 out Of shape
The sleeves TO evening dresses arc all
modified balloon shape bat short, coming
In some cases quite 20 the elbow, but NOR,
often finished on about four inches from IA,
seam, with band over which the puT falls
Tho sleeve should be- rounded upii6 inohe.
toward the inside 10 permit the pun ~ ial
outward well
To SEW the seams Ia sleeves both edge,
thUuld be neatly trimmed aud overcast and