The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-02
An AMERICAN in EUROPE.
Observations Upon the Life and Politics
Of Twenty-Five Years Ago.
BY THE LATE
JAMES SHEPH ERD PIKE.
XIV.
Abbotsford In 1e0a.

Leaving Durham we enter q picturesque
belt, In which we continue well into Northum-
berland. In tho north westerly part OF this
county we suddenly como upon long wastes oil
barren moors. We saw sheep feeding. and
some grouse, which even the cars lid not
Brighten. as nobody shoots these birds but
their owners Tho country 10 utterly barren.
neither hedge. nor forest. nor farm house. and
only here and there stone walls, and some
small streams in broad and shallow beds OF
gravel Crossing the Cheviot Hills. we sud-
denly find ourselves in lovely and diversified
country. as highly cultivated ms any part OF
England This character continues TIL we
are set down Mt Melrose. In Scotland. by the
side OF the Abbey. and within three miles OF
Abbotsford.
At Melrose we put up at a quiet, old-fash-
Toned hotel. which had every appearance OF
having fourished in the heyday OF Scott's
glory. and had never had change In any OF
its appointments from that day to this. Scott
is greater to the eye Of America than to that OF
England. In the latter country there was a
great aristocratic class which he always
seemed to be trying to climb up to. but never
to reach. He acted as though he thought they
were far above him. and they very compla-
Gently accented the acknowledgement
l noticed about Abbotsford and on the road
to Abbotsford that the thorn hedge does not
flourish. but looks broken and thin and
stragaly. and a gray moss incrusts the trunks.
The hack nj attack. or larch. is q predominant
tree among the black growth in the north OF
England and In Scotland. II is to be found at
the Duke OF Rutlands. in Lincoln, and 1t Is
everywhere seen on the railroad between Mel
rose and Edinburgh.
To Abbotsford is half an hours drive
through o not unpleasant country. The atmos-
phere was heavy with mist and rain. We were
stopped at small doorway or gate on the side
OF the road. where we saw nothing but a
hedgerow with trees Opening the gate. we
found a gravel walk descending hill. which
we followed. as it wound down by the side OF a
high stone wall with ivy growing upon it In
a moment the dwelling Of Walter Scott ap-
peared still further down the hill. the roofs not
rising to the road we had left. the building
being thus quite out Of sight from the high
way. The place is uninhabited. and seemsstll
and lonely. We followed down our winding
path till we reached tho house. There ap-
peared to be no carriage road. Pur-
suing our way past the end OF the
house. wo came to the front. which
faces the valley which extends still further
down. at the foot OF which runs tho Tweed.
which showed itself muddy stream after o
small quantity OF rain. The ground is level
for fifty feet or more from the house. and then
smoothly terraced down to the piece OF inter-
val which skirts the hther side OF tho stream.
and which is overlooked In freshets. Beyond
the river rise some large hills. the tops
rounded and bare Of trees. The view from
the house is not extensive. and would be i'm
proved II 1t sat further up the hill. There Is
no view whatever except directly In front
The building is large. irregular pile. three
stories high. and OF picturesque appearance
exhibiting great contrast to yoltaire's house
at Ferney. After 40 external examination we
found our way back to the house. where we
were admitted and taken over the premises
by Grufr guide. How can q guido be other
wise than grufr who has to attend every day
to a multitude OF brainless tourists. and re-
peat the same thing to every one. besides
having to answer q thousand tiresomo Ques-
tions2 There were small doors at the end and
in front Of the building. but nowhere q main
front entrance or large main hall
. We entered contracted basement hall and
descended narrow winding staircase, which
led directly to the door OF the study on ono
hand and to the armor hall on the other. We
were tax en- first into the former a small room
of about II by Is feet and holding SCOTS
writing desk and the leather-covered arm
chair In which he used to sit. Hero on the
are the remains OF the authors personal
effects. his walking staff. his Ratchet &c His
manuscripts are in Edinburgh. and belong to
the city. There Is o little anteroom to the
library. and a small elm bling stairway to his
sleeping room in An opposite corner. There
is but one window In this study. and this looks
out on o small garden. which lies on tho hill In
the rear OF tho house. but which In Scotts
time was only gravelled courtyard. affording
no view at all.
We passed out OF the study by o small cor
ner door into the main library This Is the
largest room In the house. and is 10 or 10 feet
by 81 or SO. though announced in tho guide
books as being 80 by 20 feet
There is a recess which looks out on the ter
races and the stream below. the waters OF
which are barely visible. Tho ceiling is
deliberately carved in small panels Of oak,
from curious devices copied from Melross
Abbey. and tho room is lined on nearly all
sides with books behind WIRE gauze doors.
At the end OF the library Is the drawing room.
% by 1S feet. fronting still the terrace and
river. and next to that comes the dining room
on the same front. not quito SO large. In which
the great author died.
There are two other small rooms. filled with
all manner OF curiosities and relics and from
these we pass into the long. narrow room.
whore there Ia anotner rlcn collectlon OF ar
NOR. Roman camp kettles. and every other
kind OF curiosity. which Is called tho Hail."
though 1t seems to have no particular claim
to the appellation.
Here Is the last suit OF clothes worn by tho
great novelist. in glass showcase. now placed
beyond tho reach OF mischievous hands For
merly some ono fllched button from the coat
when It WAS In more exposed situation. Tho
coat Is dngy brown. and looks the worse for
wear The trousers are q small black and
white plaid. and the vest some light-colored
thin stuff. A pair OF buff leather CATERS and a
pair of stout shoes close the inventory.
In one OF the smaller rooms Is the gun Of
Rob Roy Mac Gregor. and in a showcase OF
curiositiss his great leather purse and numer-
Gus other similar trophies Of tho curious In
dustry OF Scott.
The collecti Is very remarkable as the
labor OF one man. and he a Woodworking
author. But tho stranger regards 1t only as
he regards any other museum. and In this
light 1t Ia more curious than extensive.
In tho speak a bit" or anteroom OF the
study ia a cast of the authors head taken after