The Delta independent., 1893-11-29
FASHIONS TAECIES.
LATEST GOWNS FOR LOVELY
WOMAk'S WAR.
rhe Hnpry ilIgh, of Woman from
Crinoline. ChiEnos aud Congress-
Gaitsp-Dainty Costumes for Fall
and Winter Wear.


There are gloomy 1n>hlon b~gles,
just as there h.e pc IL 1t { prophets
Of ~ her e,i S, who threaten u, " tn
the val OF or mol .es and ch gnons
and con iress CATERS and all tue hor-
ror, of the dress inferno. But the fall
gown has ut last later a zed, and IL
by no means the caricatu' of the
deal that we h we been led to expect
II is true that in its ncept on one
may trace the familiar features of
dead and gone modes, but the begin
nj e of the century idea evolutionized
ana revolutionized in accordance with
the end of the century enligh3 nment
is a thing of accurate values and sym
, lnetrical Or portions. Fa> hion is n ore
wary and GRITTY than IN days OF yore.
She comm is some follies, but she is
quick 10 relr eve then.
There is much talk of the good old
times and their simplicity. but we do
not 70 out in muslin gowns and fur
mutfs in midwinter, nor do we wear
satin slippers when we take our walks
abroad. But to return to our muttons.
the fall gown. II is at once historical
and original, smartly masculiue yet
essentially feminine 1t is cosmopoli-
tan, and seeks its models in the
courtier's coat or the peasants bodice.
There is a Russian splendor of color,
q Spanish picturesqueness OF outline,
a French fascination of mystery in de-
sign. II unites with charming dis
regard for Hnachronism the attire of
widely separated periods and antago-
nistic sovereigns, all in single
costume. The fret thing you notice
about the new gown is that it has an
overskirt genuine old fashioned
overskIrt, no snam affair of iounces
nr nnInlafinD lines nf vanivkai
founcrs This overskir: is of two
kinds, one of which falls in points
around the b tom of the skirt,
= single point in front and
one on each side of the back.
The other is cut in redingote
fashion, opening in front to show the
skirt beneath. Neither of the skirts
is draped, but fits smoothly about the
hirs and falls in straigh, lines to the
foot Into what this germ of an over
skirt may develop before the season
closes, what airs and graces and ex-
travagances IL NAV take on. is not
easy To determine from its present
modest appearance, which is illus
trated from a freshly imported gown
OF green cloth, the overskirt edged
with a row of jet and gold gimp. with
drops Of jet and gold falling over q
b ack satin skirt The seam! !ess waist
has plated and pointed bertha of
satin edged with gimp, and a narrow
black satin 10 tied around the waist
and ut the back for belt The fall
gown, when II hasn't an overskirt, has
. skirt from four and one-half yards
in width upward. fitted plainly in
front and cut SO that IL falls in Rodet
plaits at the back, like the pipes of an
organ. only that they fioN out toward
the bottom and are held in place with
straps on the under side All
tions enter into the decorations of
this skirt, Fat trimmings being pre-
ferred to fiouncings. Nool gowns are
cut with three breadths in the skirt,
and those of silk or satin have some
times rs many as six good breadths
And with the single is worn almost in
variably basque, either frilled or
plated or plain. The basque in most
cases falls from a belt, and in some
hand. ONE gowns designed FOR both
street and ONE wear il is arranged so
that il can be worn in the street and
laid aside in the house However,
this basque very frequently is made
strikingly ornamental, as in the Paris
visiting gown shown in the illustra-
tion. The design is entirely novel and
~
type of the fashions for the forthcom-
ing season. The material is mush-
room. colored vslvet, handsomely en-
broidercd with black velvet and silk.
The full sleeves. cut in the new fash
ion, which unfortunately requires
more material than the old, but droop
more toward the elbow, are of black
velvet, and the very full basque, as
well us the flounce at the foot of the
skirt, are also of velvet The s.<irt of
the gown has no stitfening, but is
lined throughout with a kind of soft
canvas, which adds to the richness of
the material and gives u graceful
sweep to the skirt
Basques on palmer gowns are
corded to the bodice or Joined be-
meath the belt, and may be plated
slightly over the hips or cut with II
rouud ding skirt The gown shown rs
model is of chestnut brown ding onal,
with broad revcrs of black MORE satin
opening over full silk We I of cream
white satin. The circular sleeve caps