St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1893-08-11

ueaf nome friends. The writing. how
ever, is very difficult, as the Falcon is
being pitched and tossed about bv the
mad waves. We arrived in ST. Johns.
y. F., early Thursday morning, July IA,
and spent the day in the odd old town.
| enjoyed drive in the evening through
beautiful country surrounding the
city-filled with beautiful valleys. and
immense grand bluffs of sandstone and
granite, dotted over with little white
houses; with silver creeks running here
and there; ana fine hard roads. we'll
kept and fenced with stone.
Friday evening, the 18th we hoisted
anchor. and made an attempt TO 90 on
our way. But on account of the very
rough sea, and the wind blowing gale,
We did not dare TO trust the Falcon
along the rocky coast of Newfound-
land. and therefore returned to harbor
until 4 a. III. on Saturday morning.
when we steamed out of the narrows.
and continued our wav TO Greenland.
The weather continued rough. A cIuse
lookout was necessary, as the fog was
very heavy. and ieebergs everywhere
about US. We Witnessed some beauti-
UlutTs of floating ice. ami when size is
compared. our ship appeared quite in
significant. When YOU know that only
One-nlnth to one-Seyenth of the iceberg
IS above water. you can realize some
thing of their immense size. AS fast
as they melt above the surface of the
sea they push up from below. They
float down into the warmer waters
about St Johns. and in the hot
summer days, yon can gaze out over the
harbor and see here and there. dotted
aver the blue water. castles of ice.
which continue, without apparent de-
crease III size. ali through the summer
by being steadily pushed up from below
as fast as the top is melted and becomes
lighted. They take on a blue tinge.
which is caused by the reflection OF the
water, and it IS said that person with
slight Imagination can clearly outline
some form or statue. One. the shape of
a huge lion. with his head held high in
the air, while another appeared through
the fog as full bark-rigged ship. They
are surely worth a trip TO the North to
see, and yet the captain says these are
only small part of what we shall see.
As l write. we are at the north end of
Belle Isle, and the sea is making SO fast.
and the gale so severe. and the coast
ahead so dangerous, that Capt. Bartlett
does not think it safe to 90 farther in
the fog. Owing 10 the dense fog and
storm which nave followed us ever since
we left st. Johns. the exact location of
our ship was unknown: so when the
ragged low rock reef suddenly appeared
IA fnIr Faa
can imagine the sudden shouting OF
orders from the man at the lOOk-0Ht,and
quick Obeyance by the reversing of
engines. We slowly changed our course
Seaw3rd, and CHANGED 1t with the waves
rather than with the rocks. You can
not Imagine our sensations as we wit
messed the low range of Jagged rocks.
aud the wicked waves dash and cover
them with mighty roar.
We have just succeeded in making
Battle Harbor, after having spent the
most thrilling two hours of nv life
endeaVOrlng to dodge the ever-abun-
ant rocks on one side and ice bergs on
the other, and all the while a fierce gale
blowing. Talk about camping in the
rain" Il ''isn in it" with nice storm
at seal No particular accident. however,
except the washing overheard of one of
our best Eskimo dogs. We found
HARNESS.
hanging over the side of the deck Not
wlthstanding all these experiences. |
was never happier in my life-and am
perfectly well, with an enormous appe-
lite.
Few Days Later.
OFF COAST OF LABRADOR, 81 Deg
North, July 10. 1898. The cebergs are
multiplying rapidly. ana we have to go
out OF our course considerably to avoid
them.
Battle island. where we made our re-
treat yesterday. has population of
about 300, Interested in fishing In
winter the people go south to New
fOundiand, SO the residences are rough
affairs. A family's stock usually con-
SISts of from eight to ten naif-breed
Eskimo dogs and a goat-tne dogs
catching their own fish for food. We
took on five OF these dogs as an expert
ment, 10 find il they were good for any
thing for sledging purposes.
Labrador is everywhere indented with
inlets. and bordered by otf4lying islands
and rocks. the work OF countless years
OF exposure TO wind ana the fury of the
Atlantic waves and the terrible trosIs
of winter. Snow remains in patches
the year found, ana icebergs are always
to be SEEN floating OF Tie coast. but
gradually moving to the south. The
Der, and all communication with the
outside world is cut of except by dog
sledges drawn over the frozen sea. Az
erage cold of the year round at Battle
HarDor Is - degrees Fahrenheit. The
Interior OF Labrador is one immense
table lana with no vegetation except
ucheHS and few stunted trees. while
Immense b0uldeTS and rocks of every
size and description abound everywhere.
EnrNe l.. IL, "A
IN length, have never seen such
variety of rock. Every color of the
rainbow, ana running III queer shapes
and strata. Considerable eldspar is
gathered further south, grOu i'd up and
made into ine diShWare.
On the coast dwell the Labrador
ENkinOS. such as are at the worlds fair
The tribe numbers about eight thou
sand. Ia the interior the Indians hold
full sway. Their principal occupation
IS roaming over the interior In search of
furS and game, and in summer they
come down to the coast and barter with
the traders. No money is seen, even at
Battle HarbOr. Everything is conducted
on the trading principle, and money is a
great curiosity. We obtained salmon
and cod for the whole ship for two
American nIckelsl On the south coast
dwell many settlers who are miserably
poor. anu lie Is put an existence and a
constant battle to obtain food and
warmth for the long winter months.
Nearly ali are uneducated. and very
often they are so reduced that they live
the long winter through on a soup mada
of musseis and iiehens.
Yesterday morning one of our dom
keys was taken sick from exposure and
was SO near dead last night that we shot
him, and another died this morning, SO