davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

The next is figaro effect, obtained by
having the 1ndercorsage of black velvet and
upper one of faille. The jacket and sleeves
have ornaments made Of rich persian EN-
broidery. 1t fastens on the left under the
figaro of course this, being all black, ex-
cept the trimming, and that of such soft
mixture of colors, can be worn with any
thing
A very handsome corsage for a middle
aged or young lady is of brocade in dark
and blue and old gold and navy B. b. faille
The sleeves and drapery are of the faille,
which is arranged in the back just as it is
in front. A border of the darkest shade OF
peacock fues is set around the waist, neck
and on the drapery.- In front and back are
set jet ornaments. This is particularly rich
and handsome with black skirts.
The use of feather and fur trimming
around the neck, and in fact everywhere
on dresses, is one of the ''happy thoughts"
OF the original inventor, and there probably
will never be found anything SO very becom
ing. 1t affords a soft broken outline full of
shadows that leaves nothing to be desired.
Another very taking corsage was quite
elaborate, though not giving the impression
that it was so. The entire back was of
beaded black velvet, and this extended
down the front, and the ends met and crossed
slightly. The back had very short postA
ions The front of the waist was of heavy
corded velvet changeable in purple and gold.
The upper part. of the front was of hello
trope faille, and so were the fore parts of
the sleeves, and above these were draperies
of the velvet, held up by bows of pale hell
trope and royal purple velvet. A similar
bow was on the front. The upper sleeve
was of royal purple velvet. The straight
collar was of pale heliotrope, with two
bands of the dark. This could be worn
with black, dark green and tan, and also
with some of the shades of heliotrope and
purple.
The changeable corded effects, singularly
enough have taken sudden rise in popu-
lar favor, and whole gowns of them are
seen often made walking length, with a
band of plain, dark velvet around the bot
tom
An odd, new fabric is crepon with a
very deep wrinkle, the surface being dyed
in one color and the deeper parts of anoth-
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

me nat upon the left is a straw ua,,a
WIN 'he prlm so full that it forms scalIons
~ 'ront and at the back There are three
oeanthui black ostrich tips and full bo,vs
o. duii red velvet held by rhinestone
buckle. "o''ohe
The hat in the center Is of dark blne
straw, split in the middle Of the brim
which is fastened up off the face and bo,,nd
around with navy blue velvet Tho forn, I y
.in.'eScr'paple' but can be understood from
.ne picture Just above the opening there
panache Of black feathers, held by a
'eVet DOW and rhinestone buckle. and two
large Jeweled pins are stuck through the
DOW into the crown. The hat is percbed on
one side OF the head, and along the inside of
.he right SHE OF the brim there is a feather
border 1t is not entirely ugly on Young
mead but is not particularly refined
me third of this trio of peculiar hats il
OF black milan braid with shovel brimu
ana queer flat crown that widens out. like
the caps the little boys used to wear. far
oeyohu the sides. There is wrinkled band
VI scariet velvet around the crown. and a
large DOW with four ears" and an upright
teather turned us the others all were to
show the under side These with an en-
erald buckle finished this hat. with the ex-
ceptlon OF narrow band of ostrich flues
around the edge
ms hat was worn with a drab cloth
Jacket, short and snug, almost covered with
me brading of black and gold There were
elegant gold and jet buttons, and black silk
cords fastening the fronts. have seen sew
eral OF these close jackets, but only among
the finest imported goods. They are tight
lifting, hav1 short round skirts, rather
| full and bound with undyed sealskin, which
gives pretty set out" Very narrow seal
bindings are on sleeves, collar and fronts.
This is an indication that fur will be used
for trimming all the season. Some of the
newest turbans have fur bands. One with a
band of chipmunk was very pretty, but it
seems pity to kill the poor little creatures
to trim a bonnet.
| But if fur is favorte, SO also are lace
and ribbons Some of the new laces are
marvels of delicacy, and it seems impos-
sible that such exquisite and delicate tex
lures were woven by machine instead of
being wrought out by patient hands. Some
| saw, with the body of the lace of hemp
color and the figure at the bottom deli
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

The halls of Mrs, Hopkins-S earles's pal
ace at Great Darlington, like the halls in
the song, are marble halls. The electric
lights are set in pillars of onyx and shed
refulgent glow, soft tinted by their passage
through the stone. The music room is so
feet long and ~ feet high, of quartered oak
and paneled in stucco of ivory tint. Each
panel contains costly oil painting, an idea
of the value Of which may be had from the
fact that one of them dropped from
freight car and in the settlement was val
ued at $4,000. The organ cost SIS, 900.
There are forty rooms in the house and all
are furnished in prodigal disregard for
money Philadelphia Upholsterer.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
A Strange Method of saIutatiou.

OF all the strange modes of salutation.
the most extraordinary is the "dance Of
ceremony" current in the West African
kingdom of pahomey. Whenever any
Dahoman chief or official of rank comes to
pay you visit be always opens the inter-
view by dancing around you with various
queer contortions Extremely suggestive OF
his having just upset kettle of boiling
water over his knees which you are bound
to initiate as closely as possible.
1t is even reported-with what truth
cannot say-that one of the native minis
tiers of the terrible King Gezu owed his
rapid rise at the Dahoman court wholly to
his superior skill in cutting these strange
capers, and that he thus literally as well as
figuratively jumped to preferment.-
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
Combustible Substances.

There are many substances when Wln
produce what is called spontaneous com
bustion when brought into contact anu
which are therefore sources OF danger ne',
left about the house. Greasy rags ana r"ss
which have been wet with turpentlhe OF
alcohol should be burned as soon as useu,
The merest spark may cause oiane Mne aS
olive oil or any otherv vegetable oil Is miNeu
With rags. hay sawdust or any such eom n,
bustible material. Fine sawaust Is w n,
combustible material, and should no, u'
used ms it very often is, to collect the arp
ninps of oil casks in shops or warenVuse,,
p' Lsmpblack mixed with inssed oil is one
of the most inflammable OF substances, ,,o -
common source of fire in houses . eo' he,
from the timbers dried by the s'e' aaast r.
air or hot water apparatus. II Is SUI, .,
destroy at once ali greasy rags of wna,eT nn
kind or description for these may in mo %
ment of negligence become the eause v
n w., destruction.-New York Tribune
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
!iln toLtscE MaNs furuRE.

Tue S1efhod Of Training the Updergysd-
"sfe ~ the Ideal University.
" ia., in thcgrowth Of higher university
hfe, u 10 become of the UNDERGRADUATE
VIII he not be made too subordinate a be-
ing. IN view Of the lofty ideals Of the uni.
yetsity' As q matter Of fact, the great
Numbers aud the large Significance of the
Undergraduates in every university insure
and always viii insure the closest atten-
ton to their needs and interests. however
much the ideal OF the university grows
npon us, however lofty the more organic
and national purposes of our academic
work become s &ts q ags "a
Of the proper place OF the undergraduate
n the organism Of = great university |
have pretty decided notion, which i
should like TO express as close It Is this:
In the true university the undergraduates
ought to feel himself a novice in an order
of learned servants of the ideal-a novice
who, II in turn he be found willing and
worth ny, may he admitted, after his first de
gree, to thetoils and privileges of this order
as a graduate or, still later, as a teacher;
but who, on the other hand, If, as will most
frequently happen, he is not for this call
ing, will be sent back to the world en-
riched by his undergraduate years Of inter
course with his fellows, and with elder
men and progressive scholars.
The ideal academic life, then, is not or
ganized expressly for him. And yet he
will gain by the very fact that it is organ
lied for higher aims and upon more sig
nifcant principles than his individual in
terests directly involve. 1t Is mistake to
think first of 'discipliningn the under
graduate mind, and then of higher AGA.
demic purposes. First let as seek the
highest, which is organized scholarship.
Then let us give ample time, teachers
and oversight to the undergraduates, but
let what we do for them be informed by
the true university spirit, that is, let us
treat Them just as novices preparing to
enter the higher scholarly life in some one
of the muititudinous departments OF mod
ern research. and let US train them as il
they were all known to be worthy OF such
calling. Professor Josiah Royce in Serb
ner's
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

A peachy face, a sweet grlish express
sion, lass in her earliest twentes, ana not
looking out of her teens-this Is what her
portrait shows Miss Jeans to be. She Is
the English girl who is first to win the
Golden club prize of $50, offered in rota
ton at Oxford, Cambridge and the VIC
toria university. Her name is Nietorine
The subject set by the Golden club was
1.-The Industrial and Commercial Effects
Actual aud Prospective, of English Fac
tory Act Legislation" This tremendous
little economist is president OF factory
girls club She says modestly that she
learned us much from the girls as from
books This is the true way for women
too. to get hold of big questions on the
symnathetic As well as on their stern side.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

The most dangerous part Of the British
coast is that between Marlborough head
and the North Foreland including as it
does both the Humber and the Thames
The next most dangerous district is that
between Anglesea and the Null of Cautyre,
which includes the Mersey and the Clyde
Next comes that between Hartland point
and St. David's head, which includes the
Bristol channel The district between the
North Foreland and st. GATHERINGS, in
Guiding, of course, the Straits of Dover,
comes but fourth on the hst,-London Tit
Bits
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
'HRee VERY REMARKABLE HATS co.
) @ !, YOUNG LADIES.

r.
rnr' Lace and Ribbon An f.,...
'""'ns' and Mate Leroy Think,
" Quite Efrective-separate cor..n..
" suit Any Scr. Of sklr.--A New crepon.
Wopyright, 1873, by American pro-. 49,,
m, toni
;slnong those who presume to lead ts, 's sp,
,ons N this city, and therefore in the he, w rhs,
r ,oahsrN and their tastes vary most a sur
s ~ .S.nely III the matter Of hats One wes l
not y, p you meet will have a close bon
neYt ,xa as " very modest dimensions. The
nh aS "eek every one will have a hal that
enaihs your attention until another s, s.,a.
a,ong a little more ambitious than the firss
~. ~ .ne matter of size and more darin ni T.
~. s matter OF trimming. Some Of the lats -
III are no very remarkable that cannot
'eifa'h from representing three Of them
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
a ROYAL Gift.

An entertainer of kings was Whiting
ton. What sayeth the wise mani
"Seest thou a man diligent in his bust
ness9 He shall stand before kings"
They used to show an old house in Hart
lane, rich with carved wood, as Whiting
toms, but it must have been in his parish
of ST. Michael's, Paternoster row. and,
one is pretty certain, close to the site Of
his college, which stood on the north side
of the church. Here he entertained Henry
of Agincourt and his bride with a magnifi-
cence which astonished the king The cost
of such banquet was more than repaid by
the respect for the wealth and power of the
city which it nourished and maintained il
the kingly mind
The memory Of it, we may be very sLne
had its after effect even upon those most
masterful of sovereigns Henry VIII and
Queen Bess On this occasion it was moth
ing that the tables groaned with good
things and glittered with gold and silver
plate 1t was nothing that the fires were
fed with cedar and perfumed wood. For
the princely mayor fed these fires after din
ner with nothing less than the king
bonds to the amount of 100000, In pur-
chasing power that sum would now be
represented by million and quarter
truly royal gift.-Walter Besant in Har-
| Ders
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

Miss Sophie b Wright, of New Orleans,
teaches free of charge night school for
workingmen and boys, This school mum
bers some fifty men and boys whose daily
labors debar them from attending day
schools Miss Wright is teacher by pro
fession, and conducts q school called the
Home institute She is q semi-inyalid and
is often compelled 20 teach her night
school supported in her chair by pillows,
yet she never wearies in well dong - os-
ton Womau's journal
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

er. noticed one piece yesterday where the
surface showed garnet and the under part
was cream. The garnet was irregular, just
as if it had been pressed tightly in the crap
ing machine, if they have one, and a brush
with garnet dye had been passed lightly
over it. 1t was one of the oldest and yet
prettest things ! have seen this season.
Trimmed with some of the new laces and
plenty of ribbon, it would make most
lovely gown. MATE LEROY.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

Retired Business Mani am rich at last.
and now am going to find perfect eli
mate to live in.
Great Traveler-Good ldeai I've always
held that when man retires from bust
ness he should immediately take up some
thing that will keep him occupied for the
rest of his life.-New York Weekly.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
rue SONG OF TIE plNs.

49,, ,rom a cleft Ia the mountain side
ispr'hs, az Kiss from the rising sun.
TO ca,J eagle's wingsof pride tEk
The glor me uently when day IL done. So
Cares nv feet in u crystal spring. f*
bathe ~, ,.,inds for aysin my branches sing
AS gss .s cong Of the moantains, wild and free
Ihs ,s xii iii Of the waves Of summer seal
o,,n,b up TO my breezy height.
Come ~ III, air that Is soft as wine,
Qnan henrt grows stout and the eyes wax
a p,s soul Is sweet with the scent Of the
p, ',a. never n draft In tho world like this,
There m,'r n 10, like the morning kiss
AI When ZEN the diamond dew fills the biuebelrs
cup t.. ,iir,h a., oit.,.
Come W New York World.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

An interesting relic of the past at old
Pemaquid is street thirty feet wide, paved
with medium sized flat stones raised in the
middle and having good cutters and curbs
of large stones, besides fine sidewalk 111s
feet wide. The street was built in 1880.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

A gentleman saved the life of clothes
dealer, who had been capsized in boat
The latter was profuse in his thanks, and
said to his rescuer; II see that you have
spoiled your clothes on this suspicious oc-
casion. Allow me to take the opportunity
of handing you my business card. Ten
Thousand elegant summer suits at forty
six marks!'-Fliegende Blatter.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

In Brazil there grows tree which has
hard urn shaped fruits, known as mon
key cups. They contain edible nuts
the husks are very peculiar, b.
inches in diameter and having
which fit them closely ap1
the seeds are mature.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

An INGENIOUS cup and saucer mas oGon
devised for the special purpose % y rannired
the food of uvalids warm WIZ seet allow
The cup is nodded with three ,s ne 'pei inch be
ing an air space of about hali an I'M In tn,
tween its bottom and the sauGe 'orrsssion
center of the saucer is trimmed "I s Iisbtec
ehareoal which is supplied at G ,%iS there
in the t 10 mss or unpleasant smells, and Tn
food Of the invalid, of whatever 9 1"r fulI,
, ,,,or bannen to be, is kept warm III ''
a Ionr New York Telegram
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21
Getting Rid of a Nuisance.

First Little Bird-Here comes boy with
gun. Shall we fly away
Second Little Bird-No, He'd only fol-
low us.
First Little Bird-But what shall we do?
Second Little Bird-Sit here and let him
fire at US. By and by he will shoot off a
finger or something and go home.-Good
News
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

Under the name of 'Cha ''',a,., in India
III tSe leaves @ Of palm of the planasn
o. fa. tns chattahs are worn by the ploT% snd
leaa; ! os S and coolies of Bengal SH0
Assam.
Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1893-07-21

An entertainer of kings was Whiting
ton. What sayeth the wise mani
"Seest thou man diligent in his bust
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-08-11

GOING NORTH AMI EAST. I
30. . Kansas City 81 Louis (
and Chicago. Worlds Fair
lin tied, daily.
No. dorado springs. !
ltnVer and Pacific Coast !
Express daily ..............i
No. 4 Kansas city 1T Louis I
aud Chicago night cS.
daily. ............. .....t
No. y Accommodation. /
darby. except SuBday......
GoING SOUTH.
No. :. Ok lahoma and Texas 4.
express daily. ...............l
No. | Kansas cry ~. Louis
and Chicago through mall (
and ex. uaily................l
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-08-11
The daehta Badly Eae1e riaay goruiue august IL
The hat thing of satin and low pom.

The hat a thing of satin and low POM
pons. and altogether gray and black.
Seen amid the futter on an American
cause sensation. Yet it is not sensa-
tional but admirable in restraint. Re-
straint is bold when womenkind run
riot.
The overskirt Of our feeting youth
was Topped and founced and plated,
was it not? The overskirt of 1913 steals
insidiously upon us, square and formal
or some such innocent thing. Here is
one: Long, plain skirt of brown-oh,
the sly mink of a gown-jacket with
moderately wide lapels, opening to the
waist and disclosing a fluffy mass of
shirred satin, darker brown: belt OF the
same dark satin and long belt ribbons
hanging nearly to the ground in front
This is the beginning of the end. From
this modest and unobtrusive foothold
we may sit by powerless to protest and
watch the forging of a new chain for
woman's numbered body, new yards Of
cumbersome drapery. For the over
skirt is coming.
The cotton frocks and the lowered
muslins on Bellevue avenue of morn
ing are after all the prettiest things in
Newport to see. Miss Earl, of Earl
court, who properly belongs over at the
Pier, was ont the other morning in .
mauve cotton striped with white gui-
pure and crowned with big Leghorn
hat trimmed with yellow roses.
Another girl almost as pretty IS Miss
Earl wore pink linen skirt bound
with black braid and set off by soft
white silk bodice tied with pink rib
bons.
A huge lace hat covered with pale
pink roses and tied under the chin with
pale green velvet rested lightly on
mass of red gold hair, and was the APP
propriate finish to a costume of white
linen, with turquoise blue folded waist
coat and hit or miss attachments of
pale blue velvet rosettes and black
wings.
Shirts, of course, abound. There are
pink shirts, blue shirts, white shirts,
frilled, plain, tucked and embroidered
shirts; shirts that hide under Elton
Jackets and shirts that stand out in
undismayed prominence, unjacketed
and unafraid.
l remember on the bathing beach the
other day four-cornered shape of sun
burnt straw with queer black nut
meg crown, the points being held with
let clusters
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-08-11
BUTTERFLY AND CHRYSALIS.
The Summer Girl of 1893 and She
Of Three Years Ago.
Eeruf1ed, Beribboned and Benocnced, the
Latter Day Damscl Is q Fearful and
Wonderful Spectacle-Engiish Con-
servatism and American Daring.
lcoPYRIaEr. 1891


In millinerdom 1893 is epochal
The girl of 1890, in the severe sim
plicity of her garb, was like trim
steam yacht with all loose ends
snugged away for cruising. with high
freeboard and gentle sheer. fresh
colors and saucy tilt of gait.
Like fair weather sloop budding
all sail aloft pressed well to leeward
by the frolicsome wind, nodding, dip
ping, glancing, cleaning, spreading to
the breeze her wind-tossed banners,
flashing back the sun from myriad
facets of textile brilliance, is the girl
of '93. A creature of moods and lenses
she is a sportive, fanciful, hayward
creature, whose lips, were she to
speak, would frame, you think, some
quip or jest of long ago, when 1
danced with Lafayette, my dear"
You miss, almost with sense of loss,
of ungrati titled wish for completeness,
the powder patches and prunella Of
the past.
And yet the girl of 1898 is the same
as the girl of 1890. The same light
CLEANS in eyes of gray, sparkles in
black and flashes from blue eyes shyly
yelled! The same light in the eyes of
the sons of men still shines from
tresses golden, and glows in curls of
brown.
In appearance the butterfly, whose
chrysalis we know lang syne, she is
really the same summer girl, sensible
creature in the main, and good and kind
and merry, and by no means SO artificial
as she looks.
Women love lace. It's faint sound,
inaudible almost as the music of the
spheres, is the ideal accompaniment of
their movement, and they know it.
The swish of "starched" things is
feminine, the frou-frou of silk is more
feminine, but most feminine of all Is
the cobweb-like rustic, too delicate to
analyze, of sheeping, shimrnering lace.
Judge how happy. then, are the fair
ones. For do not the gracious divini-
ties who from afar order their daily life
permit them now to wear it--lace. and