davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15
THE STRUGGLE OF THE STYLES
WOMEN WON'T ACCEPT EMPIRE GOWNS
NOR CRINOTJNE

There seems to be- a verialle struggle between the
best dreSsmakerS and their fair customers I'm regard
10 The Empire costumes. The fact Is they are not
anu never Will be liked over here. The men es
peCially simply dctest them "Tea gowns are all very
well at 3 o'clock" said a man OF fashion, referring
to these obnoxious garments "Lut they look mon.
strous nntidy in q ballro0mlp
The trouble with yOu women" said another
masculine critic. "is that never know where 10
stop Now, nothing could have been pretticr than
last autumn's gowns. with their straight slim skirts
beruined waists or taunty little capcles and big
sleeves: they made girl look pretty and STYLISH
And now you are going TO spoil 1t all with ugly long
shoulder seams which. on either woman or a man
are contrary 10 nature; with your stiliened skirts
which or course means cIinolinc In the near future
and worst OF all, with those bcdroOmy looking things
they call Empire gowns."
Nevertheless In spite Of all opposition the leading
French artists In dress continue TO send us model
after model that the distracted drcssmakers on this
side say are absolutely unstable. What can | do
with thls?" exclaimed Nine. D.. holding ont
hideous combination Of purple and blue made zen
Emplre"; "and yet" she continued. ait has inst come
from Doncet."
IL must say II would require brave woman to
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

sututed. Clndied cherries. pneappes. volets and
rose-leaves. lines and glace grapes may b. used In
such mixture. The recipe for cream just given is
a very good one for this fruit surprise" dish.
flavor the cream. however with two tablespoonful OF
sherry or marashlnO rather than with vanilla. Make
space IN the centre u the frozen cream. after II
has been packed for about two hours. and I'll 1t with
The fruit Cover II mp with cream and let 1t stand
an hour longer. Where fresh fruit Is used II should
be added 10 ID" cream Only few minutes before 1t Is
served Otherwise II is liable 10 become iced. WAere
ranied fruit J. incCSrd In jelly, II should have
good percentage OF wine 10 prevent Its being frozen.
sherry and champagne M" u" best wines for this
purpose. as Ia" flavor Is not injured by chilling Ike
Madeira or port. which property uSrd hot dishes
II i always mi tlkr to mix clnd"d fruit I'm frozen
puddn. or icecrram when A. 1, made" Tile Inviriablc
results are hard little bits of lev fruit which haV" lost
all drllc"cy and favor In ir"puddng all the
nult should br soaked In strong iqueur or wine
at least tw"v" hours b",Dr" II l. used. II then NAV
BE- stirred into ~" crenm when II is frozen. but Is
just rs well 10 add IL when IN" cream Is packed away.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

rufiir which rca,n,~i - ihc knees. Ike ID" old fash
lon,d spanish houncr. Is cut in circular fashion
somewhat after the manner OF bell skirt. ms
rnc is quite fun around the bottom and scan ut the
TOD giving III. fashionable fare Of the season. II
I, usually put on with heading OF two three
narrow rlilics standing upright or with a band Of
fur group Of from three 10 five RIFLES
overlapping each other I, also used on the bottom
Of light good, such the black or cream gau1c with
CAV satin strips. Let II be- acknowledged here that
tlIn.e fun skirts are lovely. Thcy sire be- Omins
aud graceful 10 the last degree and without crino
line will BE- everything that women Of artistic taste
and knowledge of their capacity for beauty can
demand.
The dress here illustrated /, OF black gauzc with
narrow satin stripes In color. pale blue. Empire
green and yellow. The skirt Of the striped Gauzr
is simply bordcrcd with three overlapping ruhics Of
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

It," said her customer. looking Mt II doubtfuy.
but with certain reverence witha feeling that II
must be all right If DOucct sent il. II was certainly
very odd. but IL 1t had been for the combination
Of color II might have been almost pretty. The mn
teral brOcadc OF electric bite. with woke and
sleeves of brilliant metallic purple. The skirt
made a petticoat I'm front from III" busi down.
and trimmed with garniturc Of lace and bows
not unlike the morning dresses Of long with their
petcOat fronts.
Here IS another model from Paris" said madame's
assistant. bringing out "A black satin dress heavily
trimmed with let made also Empirr fashion With
magenta velvet yoke trimming and sleeves.
"Why, that Is The regular old SO!fcrino color that
used 10 think hidcous years and years ago.
exclaimed the visitor. Nevertheless, madame. IL
is the last tint from Paris answered the show
woman. evidently thinking that was all sufficient.
magnificent carriage wrap from Worth OF ruby
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

pinch OF white pepper and a half tablespoonful OF
salt. Let the sance boil up then put II back where
II will simmer for fifteen minutes. stirring II often.
Add teaspoOnful OF butter, half a cup OF cream and
let II boil up again. Add four mushrooms minced
and ahont cupiu OF sLrlmpneat or lobster cut In
dice. Let The mixture thickpn for six minutes then
fill the crOustade, heaplng full with the mncc and
sauce. GarniSh the dish with little green. Or. II
yOu prefer NIL each cr0ustade merely 10 the brm,
replace m" covers and dish them up In napkin on a
hot platter They do not look quite well. perhaps.
served without the covers hcaping. but they much
better 10 taste. because the proportion Of mince is
larger 10 the crust IL certainly should BE- to make
aDDctHng dish
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

invented It IS made OF leather and Is lined through
out with bears skin. and would seem completely I'M
prrylous To wet and cold
The correct riding rig for n man OF fashion Is
yhipCord coat. waistc0at and brcecheS. ana boy
leggngs jack boots II preferred. II the weather Is
bad The brcccles have channels 10 strengthen the
pars most exposed wear: this Is for morning attire
mr. for tho country For afternoon park riding cut
away coat Is worn. long riding trousers with straps
and high silk hat.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15
NEwYoRK DAILY TRIBUNE

over win uny orange blossoms, and the edge
Oh the great crystal dish wherein this edible louquct
was disposed was lined with small white lettuce
leaves and institutions. This salad, 1t Is stated,
was the greatest triumph which has been achieved
by cookery since the day when the pleasure of the
eye has begun to be carefully studied by true
gourmetS rs that Of the palate.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

III. extreme elegance and elaboration OF the silh
net roai, Of the woman OF fashion make them one OF
tbc most costly Of the adiuucts Of her dress. Not
only must the pei coat be Of rich brocadc or some
elaborate sikcn goods but the corset Is often made
10 match IT, OF ihe same rich materials In order TO
Insure perfect fit Of the gown the skirt l. fastened
IL, the edge Of the corset. and thus all super1uoiS
funesS caused by fastening III" p"ticoat around the
whist IS done away with. 4 fashionable woman who
buys most OF her gowns IN Europe brought over "A
set Of corset and petic0at match harmonic In
color with each Of the many gowns She ordered
The gowns next 20 the corset I'm every
case, without any cover between. II Is not
common thing for "A fashionable woman 10 possess
dozens Of these elaborate silk skirts.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

OF the paes green and was trimmed with four bands
Of narrow beaver far and whitish looking braid. The
bands being far apart and reaching well above the
knees. a lOw-neclcd Dassemcnterie zOuave Jacket
was worn over the green, and the neck and sleeves
were Of pale lilac velvet In the way OF "chinons"
were some delightful lace coarcttcs and chns ana
a variety OF reception bOas made OF lace. others
Of feathers with a few charming ones composed en-
tIrely Of flowers. the prctlest Of all being OF crushed
roses of lOveliest shades OF pink.
IL seems certain that we are upon IN" eve OF
decided and almost startling changes. Merchants ana
dress makers rcticent concerning novelties for
grluc on account OF the uncertainty Of demand. olr
best dressmahcrs do not be,n 10 mike up goods Tor
spring till March. though hcy order their goods Jar
In advance OF this time. The notifications OF The
$50 STYLES which have been introduced this winier
10 doubt furnish the keynote for the new spring
fashions The Empire dress which is "a gown 81
Greek motif Is dramatically opposed In all It's
!Inc, TO thc style Of 1880. and We have indicated
above Is proving an unsuccessful and passing fancy
Like all Greek costumes. II Is not adapted 10 our
climate and method OF living. II Is moreover
STYLE more suitable for the boudor than TIE bailroom
Tie line OF the waist cannot be raised 10 the height
Of the Empire Or Josephine dress without also adopt
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15
THE .NEW SKIRT.
ORE LIKE AN UMBRELLA THAN ANYTHING

MORE LIKE AN UMBRELLA THAN ANYTHING
TL>l"
The most striking midwin;rr novelty IN skirts TO
be worn on the promenade is the genuine umbrella
skirt. This skirt. rs Ii Is sent from Paris. IS
composed OF from six to nine pointed gOrcS OF even
Size. THIS makes skirt that is quite full at the
bottom but is narrowed at the top. that 1t fits the
hips smoothly with apparent fulnrss. the gathers
necessary TO III The skirt gracefully at the back being
carefully concealed. modification OF this skirt IS
being quite generally adopted BY best dress
makers for walking gowns. II consists Of six Cores
and 10 q little fuller at TIE back than il the Partisan
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

SKIRT. Every In the umbrella skirt Is gor-d
both edges therefore II IS iO introduce
a piping cord other trimming ~ the cores
10 prevent the inevitable Sagging A. the seams that
must Otherwise occur. All skirts cut with as
pronounced A Hare a. the bottom rs It Is possible 10
give them. Tacy trimmed up considerably higher
than thcT were At the BEGINNING of the season. Tia"
timmin, r,achin. Ia m" knees or above. As many
Is OF fur separated by spaces are seen
on OF The skirs. As Jingle Of mink
'allS. the fashionable trimming. costs $50 In
good quality of fur. "A matter Of economy the rows
are sometimes limited 10 free.
land, OF fnnry gllloon ribbons ard folds OF black
satin viii b" used in row, in IN" same way rs fur
on spring gown, small bows are dotted at in
trrvals sometime. Where the material permits.
ruics Of the dress goods may he used. y new
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

Many black woods in rcpped plain ground. bro
cadcd with iinv flowers set designs are being
made I'D into scrvIccablc walldng dresses 1h's"
rnNns are made with umbrella SKIRTS corded VIII
Lc,ver satin M each breadth and finished With l1rs"
leg.ofm mutton sleeves and large double r'V'rS 81
wool and satin Tn" satin r"vcr, mr." laid over "S" {"
wool and dl. play narrow vest Of brilliant c"i"r.
Tho n.w fancy silks in magenta cminencr purTl" or
dohIia with a frosted effect In hach and metal ven
jng the brilliant color beneath. might l." properly IN
troducod I'm such Il dress, any Of III" 'irchNsian
paifcrns ~ brocadc. In which purple" magenta grass
green or any Of the new colOrs ARE Introduced might
De usrd.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

Ing the Greek centure In place OF the modern corset
There Is already I" girdle" Of this kind introduced
10 take the place Of the In Empire dress When
the corset !, worn the lines OF the dress "sag In" at
The waist In the most unlovely manner. The Empire
uresS Is picturesque and artistic but II Is not shl.
c'ehty dlgnied for the formal life Of the nineieenth
century. III approaches too much 10 the familiarity
OF Mother Hubbard gown 10 be success-so all
these Charming flowing STYLES and the Vatican
drapery must be regulated tea gowns and boudolr
dresses.
in general dress the waist line now falls exactly
where II did last season The effect Of 80 stylrs
Is TO lengthcn the shoulder SEAM but not TO raise the
waist line. on the contrary the a'tenuatcd waist Is
part OF this dress. The gowns that are now being
made up for the MANY functions that take place be-
fore Lent puts stop TO all gayety are extremely
full. some of the newest skirts measuring six yards
In circumference. Many OF these skirts are now IN
terined above the knees with horsehalr to give them
the flare demanded by fashion In spite ~ this
present eypanse Of SKIRT. 1t Is sl mOOcd question
whether or not we 10 expect those idOtlc threats
Of crinolinc which TO visit ut certain Intervals
Let rs hope that refined women will content them
selves with stiiIcned skirt, and RULED pe,ticoats
The fact that few tastcloss women who delight In
adopting extreme ideas I'm dress are now wearing
wired skirts does not settle the matter would
determined effort made by the French
cOuturi"rcs headed by Worth. 10 introduce hoops an
effort which failed because Of the equally deter
mined resolve Of their customers not ~ DO made
ugly and ridiculous
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

Long coats with high. full sleeves 10 admit The
burc dr,.s -lecycs are anticipated for sprnS. lh'
leading Characteristic OF these coat. some 81 wch
have already appeared on our Streets Is ihrlr hhih2
lacks repeating IN larsc nutcd folds. The Hare "f
the dress worn beneath them.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

TIE most fashionable trimmings OF the season In
~. among our best drcssmaltrs has been ID" long
mapped beaver sains. called from their resemblance
IN texture TO gentleman, six hat ana tn short
nopp.d velvet Ti,.. materials closely resemble each
other but SIN r,.lIa iAdr 'himctcrs - satin and
velvet enough 10 be readily distinguished. Ea'h
beaver satin T. being used for rover, ana cor'in.s.
and I'm millinery for entire bpnmets. II has certain
Character of Is and vel has ong appeared Al
fashionable establishments which import th"ir own
materials; Tho .lcr v'lvr,s. though 10 longer new.
u-,ut,-. 10 remain In another season. IN
Tnrl.n and Cir-Issian cmbroideri'- Introduced nsi
,1u will be- much used during ia" season 10 com" II
nr..,nni indications are any guide. The heavy "c'u
Russian lacrl Frightened by colors and lln-'1. ar
,,-o ord rcd for spring and summer us". They are
Tar, novelty That dr",,mahcrs hhv" thus Tar kept
,o themselves though TIE plain ccru Russian lace 10
..1,y enough to = I.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

Go West via WORK Central, the Hudson Riveel
Mohawk Valley and Niagara Falls. -
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

suited.
Another French model which was shown was
robe la gOdct," which Lad the widths Of ia" SKIRT
g0rcd that the skirt like case, 10 be pulled
over the quite tightly. Ike The cover OF 'llHIr
or q pillow case. This queer skirt which had Few
folds in the back and fell straight from the bust was
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

wired skirts does not settle the matter as some would
aver. IT is scarcely half dozen since Just
determined effort was made bv the French
couturi"rcs headed by Worth TO introduce hoops. an
effort which failed because Of the equally deter.
mined resolve Of their customers not ~ DO made
ugly and ridiculous.
The return OF full drapcrics Is one Of the pre-
dicOnS for spring. and II This be realized the defeat
of the present efforts TO Introduce cnOlne l. assured.
This means something like return Of the heavy.
full drapcricl scant undcrShirts. such were
Il dozen years since. This would offer at once
means OF dlspo'ng Of the enormous fulness Of the
present skirt without the OF a wired p,fticoat.
The new bodccs which being made up with
midwinter dresses retain the enormous revcrs and
huge dropping sleeve introduced early IN the season.
and the shoulder has been pcrcoptibv length
cncd. The belt. however. Is narrow. the broad En-
pre belt being superseded by the narrow belt In
keeping with the 1870 STYLES.
The somewhat crude purple reds and red puppies
which were In vogue when the Empress Eusenlc first
came to the throne seem TO be accepted The
most becoming Of these colOrS the dahlia shades.
which are 50 toned BY erayiSh east that they
no longer an aggressive hue. like the eminence
puppies aud the hard magenta colors. which now
appearing in trimming and millinery. Emincncc'
Is exact reproduction OF the red purple used In
clerical robes. The magenta hucs are the genuine
Of thirty Years ago They ar" introduced In
elacc velvcts In combination with cold stccly blues
olive greens, ana H. groundwork for the new
trimmings Of heavy six frIScd with blacks and
metals. The revival Of Charles MI ross hu"s
i also shown IN these rainbow velve;s. some OF
he combinations Of color such ONLY French
manufacturer would dare 20 inrodnce-thu> "Hrcnce
purple Is shaded Into pale sky blue. turquoise blue
into olive green Int these bizarre combinations are
= toned IN the weave Tat they produc" a har-
monlous whole. These cace vclvets will be- largely
used wi'h black ana dark dresses and sleeves
or sleeve puns. There pale shades Of
yellow aHd grasslihc hints Of green. RIOS" color
in gcnum" oldashionoi pink !, Introduced ~ " lior
Tense and There several shades of coral rcd.
Among neutral colors tans and browns ranging
II ON light bun Ia deep tobacco hu" are Imported
an! silver .riys again found In IL" Ni oi
iashionaG,r color~ Thc-" neutral shades. however
are seldom sea-. In tAr Nool- six In pure and
simple tone bat are combined Vita som" other color.
dahlla or graz blue. or even mngcna. giving A cast
of brilliant IN" 10 The more sombrr color. season
Of brilliant color 20 Dee the prediction for IN"
comm. summer and spring. Black viii %" used a
great deal both ia satin and woods. bat VIII al~h's
Ice relieved by the Introduction Of color IN elegant
dress Cream white. frightened by color. IS likcl'
10 be- extensively used In GALA dress.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15
HOME AND SOCIETY.
CHAT OF THE SEASON.

coNr PET ECONOMIES OF PEOPLE IN SOCIETY,"
GETTING INTO THE " SWIM "-oUEER NEW
FASHIONS DELICIOUS ORANGE
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-01-15

Convenient sponge bags Of gray linen are en-
brodered with sprays Of pink sea-weed purple vio'
lets, tuttercups or other llOSsOm+
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1893-03-31
Johann Popp, e. r. Brown, A. W. McMleray
and the Mortgage Trust Company, of PenrH
sYlYania
eSHERIFF'S SAILING. 1884.

BY virtue of an order of sale issued out of
the district court of Edwards county, Kansas,
in an action wherein Ebenezer III Jones was
plaintiff and Thomas Emmett and Sophia
Emmett his wife, G. W. McCeland, j. q.
Adams, manager Phelps & Birelo0 Windmill
Company, corporation, and The Phelps y
Bigelow Windmill Company, corporation, IL.
and Trust Company of Kansas, II cooperation
Orlando F. Castee1, ii. Llewelyn Jones ans
y. 6 Walton, trustees, and U. 10 C6oteen, +.
G. Hobson and Levi =. Gould, assignees of
the Farmers Loan & TTust Co of kansae n cor
poratiOn, were detendapts, the judgment in
said action having first Been Eevived in the
names of Joseph G.. Plat and Thomas a..
Knickerbacker. executors of the last will andN
testament of Ebenczef B. Jones, deceased,
and Julia b. Beach Nala.lla ID. Beuman.
Helen l.. Knickerbacker and Catherine ] c
Jones. deceased, as plaintiffs. Gill, on Rom
day, the 10th day OF April, 1888, between the
hours of and o'clock, Pc H., ut the front
door of the court house. ieethe city of &in-
sley. county OF Edwards, 2lel state of Kansas,
offer for sale mt public auction. and sell to-
the highest biddeS for cash in hand, all the
following yea! property, situate in
the county of Edwards and stataSof Kansas,
to-WR:
The southeaa quarter C4eSd section twenty
six C26) I'm township twenty-five (25) SOUTH
range eighteen CS) west of the 9th principal
meridian.
Said property will be Sod as the property
of the above named defenia r1ts, and without
appraisemenA to satisfy ssii$ orde of sale:
SheriA of Edwards countys Kansas
Chas. o. Erwin and w. II. Frepch, attorneys
fer plaintiff.
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1893-03-31

PUBLICATION NOSICFS
First published March 11tR, 1879
State Of KANSAS
Edwards CountSse
the STAGE of Kansas Q 90
William Z. Isonayd. O
- Ps'ihtiG
James G. pusted,
Defendant.
You. the above named defendant, JAMS G.
Hustled, are hereby notified that yoG, have
been sued in che above entiu@Hd Court, In the
ABOVE entitled action, by william Leonard
plaintiff in said aQ5ion, and that said plaintiff
has filed MS petition in the district court Of
othe county of Edwards in tSc state of Kansas
against you, and that unless you answer said
petition on or before the 2sth day of April,
1893. said petition Will be taken as true and
judgment rendered in said action against You
the said1efendant, James 4Susted, for the
sIm of Four Hundsed and Fifty (si50,00) Dol
lars with interest thereon at the rateo of
twelve per cent. per aunum from the LIST day
of September. 1853, and for costs of suit. and
a further judgment against you. the said de-
PENDANT. for the foreclosure of a certain
estate. situate in the county of Edwards and
state of Kansas, to-wit:
The northeast quarter of section seventeen
in township twenty-six soutA and in range
siNteen west of the Sixth principal merid-
ian, containing lG0 acres more or less, and adj
judging that said plaintiff has the first lien
judgment will be taken as aforesaid, and
ordering said premises to be sold without ap-
praisement. and the proceeds applied to the
payment of the costg of enid suit and the
amount due plaintiff, ana forever barring and
forecfosi6g said defendant FROM ais right, I'll
tie, estate, interest, property and equitp "a
redemption in or to said premises or any part
Hereof.
Atts ssa!' a. Rau9 W xtt Il: f F5en sI5n
Clerk dOistrict Court.
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1893-03-31
SHERlFFS SALE'-No. :.

SHERlFFS SALE.-No. a
First publication March 10th, 1855
In the district soart Of Edwards count. state
of Kansas.
Tie Kansas First Mortgage Company.
Plaintiff.
william H. DawsoA, Rachael F. Dawson and
The Mortgage Trust Company of PennsyI-
vania
Defendants
by virtue of an order of sale Issued to me
out of said district court in the above-esti.
tied action, win Oh Mondey the 10th day of
April, A. D., 1898. between 9 and 4 o'clock, p.
m. of said day, at the front door of the court
house in the city of Kinsley, in the county of
Edwards, in the state of Kansas, offer at pub
lie sale and sell to the highest and best bidder
for cash in hand, all the tellowing-described
real estate, to-wit:
The north half CD of the northeast quarter
(l4) and the north half 90 Of the northwest
quarter (i) of section twenty-five S22) town.
ship twenty-five (25) soutn range sixteen Q6)
west of the 9Th p. N =, lying and situate in the
county of EDWARDS in the state oskansa0.
The abOve-described real estate will be sold
without appraisement, to satisfy soid order
of sac. X. G. ROBERTS,
Sheriff ofEdwaSds county, Kansas.
Leslie s. Crawford, attorneys for plat ntsT.
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1893-03-31

HAT FoIaH=
.e i.ss.ys.issss Pc - .siis. No .sns.oa.
einsni. fA1Ik1H xnEATED NJ HAIL
- n - = - - s.n.Es,