The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1893-01-11
Hints on Home Dressmaking.

1t has always been difficult problem
10 mothers how to dress suitably and
artisically the daughters who are in
the transition stage between childhood
and girlhood. To those who can afford
to command the services of first-class
modiste it is largely a matter of dollars
and cents, but to those--by far the
greater number-whose brains and fin
gers must be called into constant reuui-
sition in order to supply the increasing
demand, it means many weary hours of
anxious thought and unremitting labor.
If it is harassing period for mothers,
it is none the less an awkward one for
the children themselves, whose special
sartorial requirements call for the most
careful consideration.
The Russian styles, whose popularity
seems to be in no wise diminishing,
seem 10 be peculiarly adapted for you
girls, their loose shapelessness being
really extremely becoming to undevel-
Oped figures. The skirt should be a
simple straight one with the fullness
gathered into the back, and should
reach to the tops of the shoes, The
blouse must be cut on the most correct
AlhNo w oNNulG q SOOu tllt Cts anu SHOULD
be made on a fiuel lining. A dress of
soft, fawn- colored serge, recently made
in this style, looked extremely well.
The blouse was arranged smoothly over
the lining and drawn into pleats at The
waist line back and front, being secured
with folded sash of silk matching The
costume. The sleeves. which were full
from the shoulder to the elbow, were
gathered into deep, close fitting cuffs.
Ii a neat effect is aimed at, such dress
as this is certainly most conducive to it,
as the most determined romp in exist
ence could hardly give it really untidy
appearance.
Home dressmakers will welcome the
tidings that the bell skirt is still to re-
main in favor, for it is not only con-
coded to be one of the most graceful
garments ever designed for women
but is unquestionably easy to make.
To produce satisfactory result, how
ever, it requires to be made with in
finite care, and the minor details of fin
ish, too often overlooked, are really of
paramount importance.
In the first place, it should never be
made up without lining, whether
foundation skirt is used or not. An in
terlining of lawn or fine crinoline will
add weight to the material and provide
a foundation upon which to sew the
necessary facing. If a foundation
skirt is used, it should be plain and
clingipg, the front and sides being
carefully adjusted to the figure and the
fullness gathered or pleated into the
back. The facing of bell skirt must
o. xpa nto1.v l.. i
should consist of bias band OF moder-
ately stiff canvas, cut to the exact
shape and covered with lining or silk.
1t the skirt is trained the facing should
be cut wider at the back and sides
than in the front, so that the upper
edge will be at an even distance from
the waist all around the skirt-the slope
being at the lower edge, just as it is in
the skirt. To protect the edge narrow
velvet facing, which can be procured
prepared for use, is an admirable ex-
pedient. 1t is sewn on the right side
of the skirt close to the edge, turned
over and felled down on the wrong
side, leaving narrow binding exposed,
which is infinitely preferable to the old
fashioned braid.
The close-fitting skirt, however, with
all its elt glnce, is not adapted to stout
figures, aud the sensible woman whose
Inquire betrays too marked inclination
TO embOnpOint will adopt styles which
tend to reduce her sizs in effect if not
in reality. Slightly draped skirts, which
are becoming quite fashionable and
will be seen in greater numbers as the
season advances, will be found inf
nitely more becoming to the woman of
generous proportions than the plain
straight skirt with its narrow foot trim
ming, for few such women appear to
advantage in skirt fitted so closely as
to betray with cruel distinctness every
line and curve of the figure.
Velvet ribbon forms a stylish and in
expensive trimming for indoor gowns
and offers unlimited possibilities to The
home dressmaker. So many gowns
may be freshened by the addition of
ribbon and lace, without the labor in
volved in making over" that these
garnitures promise to remain in favor.
Piece velvet is one of the seasons most
fashionable novelties and is largely en-
ployed in trimming. An evening dress
that has grown pdSse may be rendered
quite modish by the addition of full
Empire sleeves of velvet in some bright
color contrasting well with the gown.
If expense is not consideration the
new shaded velvets make up very
beautifully, and the addition of little
Figaro jacket TO correspond with the
sleeves affords remarkably chic effect.
The most perfect taste is, however,
necessary in selecting materials for
trimming, as they NUT harmonize both
In fabric and color with the gown they
are intended to adorn. Contrast is a
keynote of the present fashion, but it