The Caucasian. (Clinton, N.C.) 188?-1913, 1893-09-07

ING mart does not count in the measure, for
that il arbitrary. Sometimes 1t is very
high and at other times not more than 10
give the necessary fullness to make 1t set
well.
The under portion should be three inches
narrower than the outside The measure
for width should be taken around the wrist
and at the top just where the seams join
AS it Is quite little trouble to measure
and diagram for a new pattern every time,
the clever dressmaker will draft one or two
good sleeve models-for long, slim arm and
for short, plump one-and keep them al
ways ready where by minutes work In
measuring for width and length any lady
can be fitted with a sleeve.
The next thing Is to cut for balloon sleeve,
which Is now in it's various notifications
the favorite. This can be easily done by
following the main features of the diagram.
The puff can be as full or scant as the wearer
desires, and it is usually cut on the cross OF
the goods, deep enough to reach the elbow.
and is gathered where the marks are. 1t
can be shirred at the top and the fullness
| thereby turned downward, or 1t can be cut
| a trifie higher and gathered in with the
lining. 1t is to be basted on the lining and
sewed and afterward drawn upward and
gathered and basted at the top of the sleeve.
| The front sleeve seam can then be sewed and
the sleeve finished off. The outer seam
should have been sewed before The lower
arm portion should have had the outside
cut and firmly basted to the lining and
sewed up with the whole The wrists are
now finished by narrow piping and are
faced with silk, and the best dressmakers
sprinkle little violet or orris powder along
in the seam. Where the wrists are to flare
trifle and with all fine dresses an inter
lining of wigan is made at the wrists to keep
| them smooth.
The puff may be heightened from two to
four inches and shirred directly in the mid
die, while the rest Is treated as for a single
puff. or it can be held in by ribbon band.
All the variations are suggested by the fash
ion publications, and the dressmaker can
develop them from the foundation model.
The leg of mutton sleeve being just now
very fashionable and very difficult to make,
a careful diagram is given, which any lady
can follow who will draft the diagram ON q
scale of an inch to one-eighth of an inch.
This is a very stylish sleeve and is well
adapted to all materials. The sleeve Joins
only ON one side and all the fullness comes
on the upper part. The lining to this-if
lining is used-is cut just like the outside
and should be of light texture.
The sleeves should be cut so that the line
marked straight is SO with the thread. II
the goods of which the sleeves are made IL
narrow, the seam must be made ON the
cross, as the diagonal line must be on the
true bias. When cut and basted carefully,
the plaits should be laid in as marked and
firmly fastened and the two places marked
G brought together, SO that Is comes over
the three plaits and the two AS meet Then
the seam should be basted and sewed when
the result will be q real leg of mutton
sleeve, like the diagram, and the plain part
ON the top allows for u bertha or bretelle
without throwing it out of shape.
The sleeves to evening dresses are all
modified balloon shape, but short, coming
in some cases quite to the elbow, but more
often finished off about four inches from the
seam, with band over which the puff falls.
The sleeve should be rounded up IL inches
toward the inside to permit the puff to fall
| outward we'll
10 sew the seams in sleeves both ed pes
should be neatly trimmed and overcast and
the seams stitched from the bottom upward
The seams should then be opened. and II
WOODEN slightly moistened and pressed over
a sleeve board
10 sew the sleeve into the arm size re-
qulres care. There is no fixed rule, as each
person has different way of carrying tho
arm, which brings the seam into different
position, and where it is feasible To hava
the person try the sleeves on and Din the
seams into the right position it is best to
do 30. But the general rule to follow Ia to
have the back seam in the sleeve placed
haif way between the back side form and
the shoulder seam and the front one in a al
agonal line one inch back of the dart
The shoulder seam should be turned for
ward and the sleeve basted in, beginning a.
tne back and going down under the arm
nrsS whicn brings whatever fullnsss there is
eas.iy 70 Inc top. II 1t is thin goods, a mar.
az, 'ape can De sewed In with the seam, the
qua the sleeve seam should not he nrsss.d
OLIVE HARpPp