davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Forest Republican. [volume] (Tionesta, Pa.) 1869-1952, 1893-02-15
David Mintz's,


IN ORDER TO MAKE ROOM for my
Spring Stock, 1 will close out my entire
stock of Winter Goods regardless of cost,
for Cash, as 1 will need all the room for
my Spring stock. In goods that have to be
carried over to next fall, [ will sell at the
lowest possible prices. My Stock is still
large in all departments, so come early and
get your choice at reduced prices.
am agent for James Mccall & Co.'s Bazaar Glove-Ffuing Patterns, and for
the High Aim Wheeler Il Wilson Sewing Machine, which keep n stock. Highest
market price paid for Hides, Pds, Fur, and Ginseng Root.
DAVID MINTZ, MarienVilIe, Pa.
The Forest Republican. [volume] (Tionesta, Pa.) 1869-1952, 1893-02-15
OvercOats and Clothing.

An elegant assortment this Season, with
prices TO suit the pocket book.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

fashion the bretelles must be somewhat
broader at the shoulders than heretofore,
and must add to the breadth of the figure
as much as possible.
To make bretelles like those the drawing
shows, first cut the material on true
bias. Then measure the distance from the
skirt basque or waist to the yoke line;
that is to say, to the point even with the
armpit: measure then from that point to
the middle of the back.
Allow for each bretelle double the length
OF the first measurement, also dou bic
that of the second, and cut strips for the
whole of whatever width you may prefer.
Measure off from the two ends, after all
the pieces are scanned together and
pressed, the length from the point to the
armpit, then slope the inner edge of 1t to
If the material be wool, velvet or silk,
or anything but cotton goods, you must
next line the whole neatly with the thin
nest softest silk; if it be cotton, finish
the outer or straight edge with q half-1nch
hem. In either case press the strip fiat
with warm iron when so much OF the
work is done.
Gather all the space that lies between
! the measurements taken from each end
with two rows of stirring. Then turn the
bretelle back onto the basque and haste
the edge of each end from the point to the
gathers.
Next draw up the two gathering threads
till the ruffie is the exact length necessary
to pass over the shoulders and around a
yoke form in the hack, and adjust the
fulness SO that more shall hang over the
shoulders and little less in the back, as
indicated in the illustration.
Stitch all the seams carefully and finely
to the body of the basque and turn the
bretelle over into place, where it should
hang in soft, full folds over the pulled
sleeves, setting with perfect smoothness
to the front of the basque. Unless, in
deed, you wish the body of your gown to
open at the shoulder and under-arm
seam, in place OF down the front; in that
case one end of the bretelle must be lett
free. That is, one end from the shoulder
to the point must be sewed TO q narrow
band in place of to the gown, and fastened
Into place with invisible hooks and eyes
after the gown itself is securely hooked at
both seams. OLIVIA BELL.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

will prevent all tendency to witch and
pull Stitch the inner seam tightly end
press it open with care. Then cut your
puff as follows:
Lay the open sleeve on the material,
and, following the general outline, cut as
indicated in the diagram, making the puff
twice the width of the sleeve, eleven
inches deep at its greatest length and SIX
at it's least. For while the width must
vary with the size of the arm, the depth
is the same for both large and small, I'M
less, indeed, the sleeve be designed for
child or for a woman OF unusual size,
when your Judgment must determine the
change necessary to preserve the general
proportion.
When the puff is cut, slip the lining
along till the point rests upon the point
a, and the edge and 2 is even with the
edges and b. Then mark on the pun
/ the line of the seam that joins the two
parts of the sleeve, and fold the remain
ing part exactly in half.
Cut point five inches deep, as the dla-
gram shows; then remove the puff from
the sleeve, and on the latter draw line
six inches below the center of the under
side and ten and one-half below the CEN
ter of the upper. From the two points OF
the line that touch the outer edges of the
upper part of the sleeve draw the outline
of a point whose apex is exactly IN the
center three and one-haf inches above
the lire.
Gather the two sides OF the point. cut in
the puff, and seam them to the line marked
on the sleeve, and seam the straight edge
of the puff to the line on the under side.
Turn the puff up, and allow all the ex-
ira length to form pleats at the two edges
Of the open seam. Basic the edge and q
to the edge and 4. and the edges and b
to and 2, the curve d and ito and for
a distance of two inches, also and to a
and c. Then gather the curve and ana
haste it to the curve and 6. Now stitch
the outer seam. Finish at the hand after
any manner you prefer. The essential
characteristic of the sleeve and that from
which it takes its name is the pointed puff.
The finish at the wrist depends entirely
upon individual taste, and may vary as
many times as there are gowns in which
the sleeve is sown. The long point, how
ever, which the drawing shows, is in har-
mony with the Van Dyke upper, and for
all who like long sleeves is as good as any
that can be devised, while for all who
prefer freedom of the wrist shorter cut
is heartily to be advised. So long as the
puff is correctly made and the sleeve is q
perfect fit, the finish may well be left &c
each to determine for herself.
HOW TO MAKE WING BRETELLEs.
According to the very latest edict O.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
NEv coLoRs.

| have mentioned chocolate or blush
brown as one of the colors favored this
year, especially for the long wool cloaks
Slate-gray may now be added to the list.
These colors have more refinement than
tan and the cold tints of gray. Moreover
they combine well with green and not
badly with velvet, which is in their favor.
Most extraordinary in effect is cafe
au-lait wool with boucle cross lines OF
pale green and yellow. 1t is trimmed with
bands of brown velvet OF graduated
widths, but the usual order is reversed
and the widest are at the top. Thus they
begin with short Directoire jacket Of the
velvet, that reaches just over the bust.
This is the widest round. Next in width
comes the belt; then little way below a
band nearly as wide. Thence down they
GROW narrower till at the bottom there is
q mere cord.
The hat with this gown is a yellow straw
sailor trimmed with brown velvet set back
to show the hair, and the umbrella Is
ecru pongee.
COMING FABRICS STILL on THIS LOOM.
But many of the choice new dress
fabrics are, as write, still on the loom
| have seen these at Lyons in process OF
making, and also some just placed in the
markets.
OF exquisite mixed silk and wool, you
can choose between plain grounds with
threads of many pure cOlors appearing
and disappearing with iridescenl effect;
others with many colored chenille threads
running through; or plain weayes with
clusters of narrow satin stripes of one OF
several colors, each outlined with q
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
DOUBLE RUFFLEs

Double ruffie3 or scant quillings, are
admirably we'll suited to skirts already
made. but need more fullness at the foot.
They are graceful and stylish and give ex-
celIent satisfaction for q really small eX-
penditure of time-in fact, know moth
ing better suited to the needs of all who
make their gowns at home.
Cut five-inch bias strips twice the
length of the width Of the skirt. Turn
under both edges after you have pressed
open all the seams till they lap in the
middle OF the under side.
Then divide the length of the ruffie
into quarters, also the skirt, run two
gathering strings through the center OF
the strip one-half inch apart, taking care
to shirr each quarter separately with
double silk thread.
Pin the quarters of the shirred ruffie to
the quarters of the skirt, draw up the
fitness of the former 60 the necessary
length, then haste it into place. With
the machine stitch it firmly through each
shirring, and when the hastings are re-
moved the work Will be complete and
should look like the section the drawing
shows, and It will have a stylish finish
for your skirt whether your material al
lows of two rows or OF more.
HOW TO MAKE a vANDYKE PUFF.
One OF the latest forms of the nuffeG
sleeve is the VanDyke. 1t is somewhat
troublesome to the novice, though de.
sirable in every other way.
To make sleeve like the one shown il
the drawing, which is one of the best il
vogue, first cut an ordinary coat sleeve o.
| lining and fit it carefully to the arm
Then haste on the material to within si1
and one-half inches of the top on the up
per and five and one-baf inches on tn.
lower part, and, if possible, cut these
pieces en- the bias, and by SO doing YOU
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

tom of the waist in front ana at the sides,
and to cut it up short at the back SO that
it shows a triangular section OF the belt;
The belt is draw round In wrinkles and
fastened at the back with rosette or YER
ticle or double ruffle that stands out comb
like. The effect viewed from behind
when the gown is of one color and the
belt of another is rather startling, but is
considered very chic.
The short wasted appearance is accen-
tuated when the jacket is braided, for
this carries the angle still farther up the
back.
Navy blue and black serges are thus
made, the jacket heavily braided, and
worn with red silk skirts and red silk
belt. There is no collar to these jacket
and the red neck band, made like the
belt and fastened behind, shows all the
way round.
These costumes, made by the besi
modistes and worn with distinction, are
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
SOME NOTED TOILETS.
Brilliant Coiors and Novel Designs-The
Latest in Hats.

BrillIGnC COlOrS ana mover 1'SSiS Ho- Il ZIG
Latest in Hats.
CORRESPONDENCE of THE HERALD.
Moe, March 10.-On the Riviera, while
American cities are emerging from one
great snow storm after another, there is
to be seen a panorama of spring fashions,
worn by some of the worlds most noted
fashion leaders. One may see on the
grand promenade that sweeps from the
Hotel dies Anglais down round the curve
of the bay, and on the carriage drive that
runs beside it, such elegantes as Prin-
cesses Zoe and Nathalie Ghika, SO prom
inent in Partisan society; Prince Louis
and Princess Marie de Bourbon, Prince
and Princess Mirski, the Grand Duke
and Duchess Peter of Russia, Duchess
de Pourtales, the empress OF Austria, and
enough other notables TO i a column.
The toilettes therefore are well worth
seeing and have in them all the
leading ideas for the early season.
THE PREVALENCE OF VIOLET
What first strikes the eye here in this
brilliant throng is the prevalence OF
violet. This color is more in vogue than
ever. All tints OF reddish mauve are
worn, but the cool violet takes the palm
of all Violets and green leaves, or vioiets
and green velvet, trim a large per cent.
of the hats and bonnets, and this favorite
combination of color never grows common
or wearies the eye. for the reason that it
is not simply fashionable, but is refined
and beautiful as well.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

that are modern without being extreme
and trimmings that are in keeping with
the mode without being absurd.
STYLISH TOUCHES FOR LAST YEARS
GOWNS.
Now that trimmed skirts are declared
the vogue no woman cares to wear those
that are absolutely plain: and now that
fiaring skirts are being made narrow and
straight ones seem out OF place But II
YOU take out last seasons gowns and al
ter them bit, and plan your new ones
with reference to some tasteful feature or
fashion you can be we'll dressed the sea-
son through, without having adopted
exaggerations that cannot last.
II it happens that your last seasons
gown was cut from only SUFFICIENT
length and you have no pieces left, you
need not despair. Purchase pretty silk
in n harmonious tone and make stuffed
piping sufficient for several rows; or II
the gown be heavy enough to warrant
the use of velvet make them of that,
either of plain fat tone or combining two
or more hues that suit the color OF the
gown.
II your ginghams seem out of Date an d
are palmer than you would make them
now, add quilting of ribbon, from two to
four or six rows deep, as you may prefer
or as the value of the gown suggests.
Ii YOUR India silk needs freshoning, ado
to it some ruffies of heavy lace.
All these trimmings have the effect OF
adding to the fullness of the skirt at the
foot, the distinguishing mark OF this
years styles.
GENERAL FACTS ABOUT SKIRT TRIMMING.
To perfectly cut and make skirt trim
ming OF any sort, some few facts must be
borne in mind.
For ruffies, puffs, folds, pipings and in
deed anything but pleatlngs, which just
now are not much in favor, the material
must be bias in order to obtain the right
set Straight material will not take the
graceful folds thai mark the well-made
ruffie. the perfect fiounce.
Pipings, such as now are in style, must
be stuffed with cotton wsdding. and every
particle of the work requires to be done
with care and neatness to get any salts
factory result. The preliminary basting
must be perfectly done.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
Of the adoption of universal and perma-
nent street suit for women?
CANDACE WHEELER.
FEATURES OF PREVAILING STYLES.
Directions for yandylSe Pufs, Skirt
Trimmings and wing -BreteIies.

Directions for vandylSe Puffs, Skirt
Trimmings and wing-Breteiies.
The fat has gone forth and the COM
portable, truly elegant plain skirt will be
seen no more. Ruffles, frills, tiounces,
quillings and folds are already shown
upon the latest toilettes and the prospect
for spring and summer is one of berutfied
skirts, over-abundant irills and general
voluminousness.
Still there is no reason for rushing to an
extreme that in all probability VIII be
short lived. There is no necessity at
present Tor making skirts that resemble
umbrellas more than gowns. There is nc
need to trim excessively nor up the entire
length OF the skirt as some lnodistes
would have us do. In brief there is nc
objection at all to applying the laws OF
taste to the new craze and so enjoy gowns
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
TINY BoNNETs.

The bonnets are tiny fat caps that hug
the head closely without altering its out
line, of such form as could be easily
contrived by the amateur. They are
made of jet strung on wire, such as was
worn last year, of fancy openwork
straw, and for dress bonnets of gold
The trimming consists, besides one
bandeau, solely OF a bow in front raising
perpendicularly, formed on the Alsation
or butterfly idea, with wings that spread
lateraIly and often with an algrette or
antinnae in the middle. The idea is not
new but it has taken fresh lease. The
wings may be of fiuted velvet or lace, OF
gauze or of veritable wings. The double
rosette idea also is applied to bonnets.
Strings are optional. When seen on
the occasional bonnet they are of inch
wide velvet ribbon fastened at one side
with a small rosette.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

An immensely successful toilette with
violet for the keynote has bonnet of the
materials just described. The gown is
black with the bodice in slashes over a
violet under bodice. The slashes are cut
from the neck down to below the bust,
leaving the width of belt below, the belt
section being arranged to wrinkle. The
sleeve tops are also slashed over violet.
parasol lined inside with violet.
HOW NAVY BLUE sERGEs ARE MADE.
The Turkish jacket ard the Spanish
belero are having an enormous success IN
the denl-season gowns. The latest idea
is to have this little jacket reach the bot
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

choose a symbolic shape to which with
slight modification all the hats could be
referred, this shape would be the sailor.
The sailor pure and simple will be very
much worn, and may be said to be the
key to the mode. 1t is simple, becoming,
dunn wide rim, which in the fine straws
grows narrower round the back.
Another approved hat of similar dimen-
sions, but intended to set farther back on
the head, has the rim dropping slightly
on each side from a little upward curve or
peak above the forehead. The edge of
this rim is trimmed in front with a knot
of velvet in the center and a loop each
side.
These hats are in coarse and fancy
straws of all colors, and even stained
with iridescent effect and in Neapolitan
braids of black and white alternating.
The colors most approved after black
| are green and the rich scorched yelloWs.
| The trimmings are velvet, velvet flowers,
and wings, iridescent wings being much
sought. Spring garden flowers, prim-
roses, crocuses, daffodils, are used in
cIumps, as if growing, on large black
| lace hats.
Many women of taste, however, will not
wear these initiative things. Violets are
| in more demand than ever, and violet and
green is the color combination most in
favor. Pompous and aigrettes play a
prominent part in the garniture.
Scotch plaid tissues are to be in the
graeates6 possible vogue. One of the
| largest manufacturers of millinery goods
| in Lyons has turned out thus far for the
spring trade nothing but tartan goods.
! This is the second season for tartans
when all the world will wear them and
those who seek novelties will cast them
aside.
Grenadine ribbons later in the season
are to have great run. They are being
varied in make by all the resources OF the
| jacquard loom. They mingle gauze,
satin and brocade together with Vatican
boquets in stamped colors.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
NEWEST French FASHIONS.
Styles Worn By the Fashionable
on the Riviera.
DRESS FABRICS IN THELOO
Designs and ColOrs Worn By Leaders
of the Mode.
Help for the Home Dressmaker, will
Directions for Producing Features OF
Prevailing Styies-suits for Business
Women and How They Must Be Made.

Il having been decided that a suitable
dress must be forthcoming for the use OF
women who have more than personal and
family affairs to carry forward, and who
cannot therefore be hampered in body by
arbitrary and constrained fashions or IN
mind harrassed by the constantly recurr-
ing necessity for appropriate clothing, 1t
is to be hoped that the method OF procur-
ing these new garments will be quite as
carefully considered as the styles and
forms.
The business costume, to meet the larg-
est demand, should be ready-made one,
corresponding exactly in quality and ex-
ceIlence of cut and finish TO the ready
made suits which most business men wear.
Within the lines demanded by duraDil-
ity and necessary resistance OF color ana
material, to sun, wind and rain, it is pos
s;bIe to choose materials which should
satisfy all tastes and meet all pecuniary
conditions. The range OF color, also, from
the warmer bluffs and cool silver-grays Of
summer through the Whole list OF dark
greens, clarets. browns, blues and mixed
tints down TO the lowest bass note OF color
-bIack-gfves enough choice TO suit all
shades of hair, color OF eyes OF tlnbs OF
skin.
THE TAILoR-MADE GIRL A Fo7ERuNNER.
Certain features of the business cos
tune have undoubtedly been foreshown
by the taiIcr-pade girl OF the last few
seasons. a.
The scant skirt inaugurate6 by this
fiowerof fashion needs bpE small ourtall-
Inent to become a light and convenient
Dsrt of the coming costume. The popular
suspender waists need only to take the
,Iaee of the corset; the vest and jacket to
be loosely and symmetricaily cut
10 form the important exterior
Of healthlul, convenient ano
durable form OF dress, while the fashion
of riding trousers, made OF the same ma
terial as the skirt, and leggins TO match
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

certainly for day gowns the success OF the
season. The skirts, wide at bottom, are
trimmed with rows of black braid
spaced far apart or in clusters,
sometimes with machine braiding
above each row. The silk shirts have
vide ruffies or jabots down the front,
with the neck finished as described.
Tailor hats complete these toilets a
charming dress is of navy blue polka
dotted foulard, with a blue velvet bolero
with slashed sleeve tops embroidered with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
As NO spRING IAcKETs.

Not fitted jacket is to be seen on the
promenade-I mean of the half long type
we have known Tor so many years tech
nically as the s'spring jacket
The tiny boleros and the full plated
shoulder capes of velvet furnish the extra
warmth, and are much prettier, as far as
fashionable women are concerned. The
basque type OF jacket may be said to have
passed its day Occasionally a white
cloth coat is seen for driving, but it
hangs loose. Such have haring levers
laced back with dark velvet.
ADA BACHE CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
TERRITORY OF UTAH, ! "a

TERRITORY OF UTAH,
Secretary's ONCE.
L Elijah Sells, SECRETARY OF the Territory OF
Utah, do hereby certify that the above and fore
going is a full, true and correct cory OF the an
nual statement OF the general condition OF the
Fire Association OF Philadelphia, fled in my
Office on the fourteenth day OF February, 1893
IN pursuance OF an act relating to Fire lnsur-
snce companies. approved March H. 1884
In witness whereof I have hereunto
set my hand and affixed the great
IsEAL.l seal OF the Territory OF Utah, THIS
sixteenth day of February, 1888
ELIJAH SELLS,
Secretary OF Utah Territory.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
PLATED PIPING.

Piping plaits are just now high in favor.
To mako one, cut three strips exactly as
directed for the piping, excepting that
you make each half as long again as the
SKIRT is wide. Stuff and finish all three,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
Arnicated Eureka Cream.

The finest OF lotions for cbapped hands
and lips, rough skin, pimples, tan, etc.
Makes the skin soft, white and smooth.
Elegantly perfumed. Only Zoe. AT drug
gists.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26
ENORMOUS MONEY IN RIBBONS.

AS parallel bands will be one of the
principal modes OF trimming gowns an
unparalleled sale of ribbons has been pro-
vided for. Black velvet ribbons will be
in special demand, and satin ribbon is
bound to be very effective in many rows
on wool gowns such as cashmere.
1 have just seen costume OF slate gray
wool trimmed with inch-wide bands OF
black satin ribbon, EIGHT rows on the
skirt and as many on a cape that reached
only to the elbows. The cape was banded
from neck to circumference, and was
gathered ut the neck and finished with q
box plated boa ruche of black satin RIB
bon.
Many rows OF very narrow ribbon are
sewed on ruffles.
The enormous quantity ofribbons thus
consumed makes the ribbons often cost
more than the rest Of the gown. The
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-03-26

stats OF NEW JERSEY, % -
COUNTY OF ESSEX.
F. II. Harris. President Of the America IN
surance Company, being duly sworn. deFoseS
and saws that he is the above described officer
of said company, and that the foregoing state
ment of the general condition Of said company
on said Thirty-frst day OF December. is correct
according TO the best OF mis- information
knowledge and belief. respectively.
T. n. HARRIS
Subscribed and sworn to before me this
tSEAII 18Th dayof January. A. ID. 1898.
RUDOLPH SAGER,
Notary Public