New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-12
SPRING FASHIONS.
NOTES ON NEW MATERIALS.

bands OF satin. The Characteristic OF all THINNING "
the season to separate into spaces. and thus ex'
tend the effect Of the trimming from the edge OF the
skirt to within quarter OF yard OF the belt. BACK
satin Is in special demand for trimming black wool
dresses and at least serviceabe dress OF TINS na
will be found In almost every womans WARDROBE
Black satin ribbon well as folds OF black saup u
used to trim the skirts. Some OF these are
trimmed with graduated folds. ranging In width from
three to four inches up to narrow. halfinch width
and separated with wide spaces so that seven or eghS
rows extend from the edge OF the skirt to within nine
inches OF the belt sti other trimmeo
with clusters OF folds In several groups sepa'
rated by wide spaces. The group on the bottom OF
the dress folds each about two Inches
wide; the next group, Just below the knee has nve
folds OF little narrower width; and the group be-
tween the waist the knee has but three folds not
over an inch wide. Some Of the skirts are
trimmed with rufnes, graduated in width from hvs
inches to inch and half and separated by spaces
equal to their width. These extend from the bottom
OF the skirt to q short distance below the waist Tue
satin is hemmed the outside with the odfashloneo
rolled hens and the rufies bias 10 give them tho
proper fare, and are applied to the skirt without
heading Some OF the new rufies are made double
I'm the way they were about Of years ago. ana
they are applied the skirt BY bands OF satin.
or q group OF three m!lliner's folds about an Inch
wide. separated by spaces.
some of the pretty changeable bop saclsiugs have
Inches wide, heightened at the top and bottom BY
strip of dark satin In harmony with he WOOL This
satin Is hemmed on the outside with the oldfashoned
rolled hem. and Is sh!rred on to the dress In narrow
puff. Thus the satin appears at the top In the ruined
heading and tiny puff, and at the bottom In the enecs
Of band. The dark satin Is again introduced In the
lower part Of the sleeves and In the full front Of the
dress.
The new bodIces are usually round at the waist,
though sometimes they slightly pointed at the back
and front. They finished with belt OF narrow
folds and high full sleeves Of various kinds. great
aec's this spring as they have been during the vim
ter. Full fronts Of Grape again used on silk
various French novelty goods wherein black Or dark
pile OF SILK partially covers gay grSanG; we CHS
novelty goods in fancy silk which will be used
for trimming the hop-sactings, meiange twiils ana
SSS q he new bodces are finished With collars
which the shoulder-seams ana ave the siopne
en sf 10 NAV ave Be MADE Of vide Of san
shrrd into shape at the neck and finished by several
lar. or they may be made Of satin "by the piece
The new cloths for spring and summer sultnc.
which described in The Tribune when they were
first imported are now shown In abundance on the
retail counters. The light, loosely woven woods.
which known by the general name OF hop-sacK'
ngs especially sought for servceabe street gowns
for early spring and for travelling gowns later IN the
season. IneSe Will De Hdue up III SimPc 'ohvs Sssao
but with trimmings Of satin or Of satin ribbons. Tns
plain hop king ranges In price from 81 up to %,
and Is generally found In twotoned effects. Thus the
rep of the goods will be TOettinted gray and the
wool duh pink or the mixture will be a gray blue
and dull yellow or and dun green will be com.
bined In the same way. An advantage which these
goods possess Is that they somewhat wiry and do
not crease easily. variation Of the plain hopsack.
Ing Is the basket-coth. twotoned wooen woven In
rough basket weave The basket goods range from
81 so to 81 yard. The new Scotch cheviots OF the
season are woven in herringbOne style, In mixed
effects in a variety Of light coors which are mixed to
form harmonious whole, and heavily 6ecked by
raised threads Of knoed wool. These chevios are no
longer made up in the severe style Of the English
tailor but are often trimmed with heavy ecru laces
and usually with velvet. They range In price from
81 25 to ~ so a yard There also fine Scotch
checks in blue. brown and white. TO which are given
the familiar herring bone effect by diagonal weave.
They also found In various other mixtures Of color
like violet, fawn and green, and pile giny rose ana
yellow There are also fine French cheviots. which
are found ut from IS cents to al 80 ward In simple
melanges and In melanges striped and seeded with
color These goods make excellent dresses i0r
simple morning frN
The wool popllns, which are imported with galoon
selvagrs I'm color, are recommended durable and
handsome goods which will require very little trim
ming. except the selvage. This selvage Is woven In
variety OF colored stripes. Thus . bluegray poplin
Is finished with half-inch sevage OF darker gray.
striped With lines OF pale mauve ana pale yellow.
Various other combinations OF color shown In these
goods Persian effects found In variety Ok
crnled cloths figured in medley Of cashmere colors.
with dotted palm leaves and other oriental designs.
There are also pretty canvas woods In tan and other
light coors which are figured with waving silk
stripe which Is raised upon the ground like tue ngures
OF the crepon woods of last These stripes are
in dull delicate shades Of color like mauve. pale tur.
Quose or faded green. quaint material which VIII
make up into picturesque 1880 gowns with trimmings
OF black lace shows q groundwork like q DlacK lace
grenadne pale or some other delicate COLOR
with plain figures In the color Of the ground.
The new wool bareges repeat fabric which has not
been familiar In markets since the departure OF
the hoop. These goods figured with silk III DHy'
ordere effect. Illuminated velvet stripes crossing the
WOOL and notified lines In melange OF color stripping
II. These goods are IS yard. and may be made up
into the quaint full styles Of 1880 with trimming
OF plain or changeable satin In harmonizing tones
There are many silk and wool goods with raised pie.
through which the under surface OF the goods Is shown
in A contrasting color. Thus an "eminence' purple
barge is figured In messy effect with black SILK ana
shot with pale blue empire green or some other cOIoe
in contrast diving the changeate elect oil the v"lourv
Of the winter. Sometime, material with Loose
xeivss p figured sI BLACK p h pattern
watered silk Thus a dirk hello,rope has an under
sac stripe. in Til, wa,ercd effect such novelties
are used by our lest dressmakers for trimming gowns
OF rich wool, a portion Of the novelty goods being
shown M the vest IN The full balloon puns 81 TIE
sleeves: or sometimes In the wide Anne OF Austr!e
collar which re sloping shOulderscams or u
the huge 1850 revers.
Trimmings OF Hercules braid In widths varying from
half an inch 20 an inch and quarter are largely use4
on scotch chevio dresses They are rut On In srosns
lines and In curving bands. The latter Is 80 dimcue
for re dressmakcr accomplish successfully That the
braid may now be- found IN Of the shops woven
In eurylng shape which be as easily applied ~
s;raiqh, braid. II ranges in price from 10 cents .
yard upward. according 10 Width.
From every wherc comes ire cry OF woe from those
~ moderate income that last seasons frocks ofe
practically useless on account Of the present ample
dimensions OF the skirts. Not for years has thefe
be.n such a general renovation OF the wsrarooe
needed for those who would lie IN tue fasaon Aaee1
nancls and fronts are verv obvious makeshtNs ana
x.s'' .a III. s.an,s uothnr for IL but to buy neW