Morning journal and courier., 1893-12-16

psaks, sombrs gorges, and rearward, the vast spectral expanse of The. Folgefond ice hslds. The last part of the Journey ia by rowboat across @ magnificent mountain lake fifteen hundred feet above the sea, the Ringedalsvand, into which the Skjmsgedal- fos really pours its waters. The total height of this lion of NorweSton water fails does not excssd that of ths VoerIpo fos. but its surroundings are more weirdly savage and grand. The water descsnds st first in score of veil-like streamers, dsz zling white against ebon black. From the vast and terribly thunderous sbyss where these leap and rebound with frantic fury one mighty fall descends. From the sec- ond great whirlpool the entire volume Is discharged, something like the Niagara rapids, though In sleeper cascades, into the Ringsdalsvand still thousand feet be- low the bottom of the great fall. From the foot of the latter the entire spectacle Is like tremendous stresmers of white dropped from glittering glaciers, which crown the mountains behind and above, at last gathered into one mountsin-high flee cy fold, which in turn Is whipped and torn into vagrant billowy masses to the steely blue lake far below.
 Not having travsrsed the glacier fields of Norway, l can have no knowledge of the fost auO OfSL pOEeIluR scenes that may De gained from their frozen heights. But all things considered, and admitting the hu- man cement Enso scenic effects with its al ways warmth of influence, I believe the two finest views to be hsd in Norway are at Molde, and the "Kiug's Viewn from above SundvaldeR. From an easily acces- sible great elevation behind Molde one can gaze not only upon human habitstions be- meath, the sea sweeping in through the tremendous walls of the ford, curious and quaint craft which ply along the coast, hundreds of picturesque islands, but a vast amphitheater of mountains rising tier upon tier, until lost In glittering heights which blend with sky and clouds. Among these weird, far heights are the fantastic Romsdslhorn. the Matterhorn of Norway: Sn@hatten with its wbits and dazzling helmet; the weird and mighty horn of Perpustind; the serIated glitteripg bikes of the LsDgfjeld; and those mighty still unknown and untrscked heights at the head of that waterway of black shadows, tke lone and sombre Sor ford. A no more bewildering array of Alpine peaks can be found la S9itzsrlaud; while all Swiss scenery lacks the wondrous msgic of the sea.
 From the inn at Sundvolden one may ascend on foot the huge mountain which gives access to Kings View. The latter portion of the ascent Is exceedingly diff icult When near the top, but not ex. pecting the sudden surpriss in store, CD turning a sharp angle of the rock, the whole mighty picture is instantly spread before you. First is a tremendous fertile plain, studded with lakes, the lakes with islands, the land between with hamlets, farms, churches and all the splendid eyi dences of human thrift and home proTi- sion; and this vast plain is encircled by lines of forest. then tiers of eternal stone ribboned with waterfalls, then mountains of rock, mountains of snow, mountains of ics;-the whole melting into pictures as hlmy, fantastic and ethereal Bs the sub stance of half dreamed dreAms. I know of no other such extensive view In sll the world; DO other at once 70 eIquisitely beautiful, So incomprehensively vast, and so surpsssingly sublime. From -Etns alone is there scene for even comparison. That ons the sea cramps and confines snd congresses into a narrow strip of land iu which live brigsnds and serfs. Here gre free, happy and prosperous people, ou whom 1t almost seems that the God Is sc tually smiling through the ineffsb!e glow of dszZling mountain tops
 EDGAR L WAKEMAS-