St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1893-01-30
FAsHloNABhE DRESSES
For the Use OF . ONE Dressmakers
Who Desire Style.

For the Use OF ONE Dressnakers
Who Desire Style.
Just where the growth of sleeves will
stop is a question that even the most
vivid Imagination fails to grasp. Some
of the new models measure about forty
five inches around, and, according to the
best authorities, they are still increasing
in size. This fulness is located almost
entirely between shoulders and elbows,
the sleeves below fitting the arm quite
closely. The genuine leg-o'-muttOn
sleeve, the one which is so realistic as
TO ne almost painfully suggestive, is oc-
caSiOnally seen, but is not liked so well
as the puffy one. that which is fullest
just above the elbow.
There are various ways Of trimming
the sleeves, among the latest being Il
band of very elaborate passementerle
set around the sleeve Just below the
puff. In some cases it has points which
extend down the sleeve toward the
wrist.
Collars are plain and nigh, revers are
very wide, some of them extending
back we'll over the sleeves. Almost all
waists are fanclfully trimmed or fin
ished i'll some way other than plain;
indeed, the plain waist is quite the eX-
ceptiOn. This portion OF The garment
seems to be specially arranged, as a
foundation upon which to sew fine
trimming or gathered, shirrcd, plated
or feStooned trimming material. A
model which is as attractive as any
has a plain round waist, full-tOpped
velvet sleeves, velvet yoke and plated
bertha also Of velvet, edged with the
trimming nnnIlI1r. If
for out-Of-do0r wear, with tiny band
of far. The waist is somewhat curved
out over the hips, and is longer than the
average round body. 1t recalls the old
time waist, which was finished with
cord and seWed to the skirt.
The newest skirts have gored apron
fronts, side cores perfectly straight on the
front edges and a sort OF triangular
shaped back piece. They are very grace
full and. what is quite as much to the pur-
pose for many people. are easy to make.
The foundation skirt is entirely omitted
by many dresSmakerS, the outside ma
terial and lining being cut and made up
together. \ great deal Of gloria is used
for lining these skirts; and while they
are very light and manageable, they are
not at all inclined to drag, nor are they
limp enough to be objectionable. II a
little more stiffness is desired at the
hem it is very easy to put a facing OF
alpaca or briliiautine exactly the color
OF the goods. This should be put on
with the greatest care. 1t must either
be an exact bias, OF, what is much better,
cut precisely the shape of the out
side material. If care is not used in
this particular, the skirt is absolutely
certain to hang badly. The trimmings
at the hens Of skirts must be put on
with the greatest nicely for the same
reason. 1t is not an uncommon thing to
see 4 dress skirt with the material sag
ging over the band Of trimming at the
hem. This is fatal to style or beauty,
and must be carefully guarded against,
especially when the entire length OF the
skirt, with the exception of this narrow
band. must hang from the belt. Before
putting on the band, the skirt should be
shaken and smoothed, so that no sag
cling can occur. ii is 4 good plan to put
the belt on first, then adjust the skirt tC
the proper length, carefully basic the
outside and lining together for almost
the entire length of the skirt; then
finish at the bottom, and put on the
trimming before the hastings are taken
ont.