davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call., 1893-05-28
WONDERS OF
Tie Sequoia Gigantea.

of San Francisco in an air line, the route
Travelled, however, being ITO miles longer, 200
miles of this distance being covered by rail ana
the balance by stage
The valley WIS originally called bv the In
dians "Ahwahnee," also "Yohamtc" but the
name as now written, Yosemite, viii doubt ess
stand. lis signlficati0n beng Il "full-gr0wn
grizzly bear" 1t Is pronounced Of four
syllables, the accent being on the second.
The principal features of the Yosemite and
those by which il is distinguished from all other
known valleys are: First, The near approach 10
verlicality OF its walls; second, their great
height, not only absolutely, but as compared
with the valley itself; and finally the very
small amount OF ;alus or debris at the base OF
these gigantic cliffs Either the domes The
waterfalls of the Yosemite or any single one of
Them even would be sufficient In any European
country to attract travellers from far and wide.
The valley is at present n Stale possession,
its control being vested in a commission. Con-
siderable comment has been excited of late re-
garding the past action or neglect of this COM
mission, and The possible recession of this
unique valley TO the paterna Government has
become burning question of the day.
The tide OF travel 10 the Yosemite is usually
almost cut off in the wiuier seas on, but com
mences again with the dwindling of The water
falls. on the 1st OF April Of each year.
The morning call., 1893-05-28

mass with three gables fronting the valley one
above the other, the iopmost nearly 1000 feet
high. They were named for three brothers
captured here during the Indian war, sons Of
Tenaya. the old Yosemite chief.
"On the south wall, opposdc the Brothers,
towers The Sentinel Rock TO il height of more
than 5000 teet, a telling monument Of the icy
past.
''Sauutering up the valley through meadow
and grove, in the company of these majestic
rocks, which seem To follow US as we advance
gazing. admring. looking for new wonders
ahead where all about il wonderful, the thunder
OF tie Yosemite Fall Ia heard, and Wien we
arrive in front OF the Sentinel 1t is revealed IN
all its glory from base TO summit, half a mile
in height and seeming to gush directly from
the sky.
but even this fall. perhans the most wonder
fu III the world, cannot at first control our at
tention, for now the wide upper portion OF the
valeyis displayed to view, with The North
Dome, Royal Arches and Washington Column
on our lett. Glacier Point Rock. with its mag
nifcent sculpture on our right, and IN the mic
die Tissiack or Half Dome tile most beautiful
and most sublime of all the mountain rocks
about the valley. 1t rises in serene majesty
from the fertile level into the sky to height OF
475o feet.
Here The valley divides into two branches,
the Tenaya, Nevada and Ililouette canyons
and valleys, extending back into the fountains
OF the high Sierra, with scenery every way
worthy The relation they bear to Yosemite"
Willingly and with profit. did space permit
could we linger with this mast rly cicernne In
his artistic yagrancy, but his guidance would
lure us too FAR from our theme-the Yosemite
Valley proper.
THIN there Is the Ilhouette Fail, "one OF the
most heauIfnl OF the Yosemite choir" the
Mirror Lake. the Dome Cascades. the Tenaya
Fall, Mount Watkins. Clouds Rest. Sierra
Cathedral, Mount Dana, Mono Lake. Mount
Lyell. the Big Tubumne Canyon, the Vernal
and Nevada falls. the Little Yosemite, besides
the four other little Yosemites, all OF which
Mr.. Muir touches upon In the description
under consideration.
Ihe lannon's Yosemite Valley lies in Mariposa
County and as nearly as possible In The center
Of California. 1t Is $50 miles nearly due east
The morning call., 1893-05-28
KINGS CANYON-LOOKING UP THE VALLEY FROM THE MAN.
---- NAN

is about 5000 feet above the sea, are NOT an
perpendicular as in the Yosemite, but vet rise
abruptly From their brink on either Side The
ground still rises in series of ice-catyed ridpes
and basins, superbly forested and adorned with
many small lakes and M adows, where bear
ana deer ind grateful homes; while from the
head OF the valley mountains other mountains
rise beyond In glorious array. every one of them
shining with rock crystals and snow and with
network of streams that glide from lake to lake
through labyrinth of icebuInished canyons.
Ihe winter snow falls here TO depth of from
ten to twenty feet, still in spring aud summer
Inc no'a Is prOfuse and varied The fraIleSt
mowers, blue ana purple and gold, spread their
pretty tapestry on every coign of vantage.
Once down in the valley a wide plateau
presents Itself, planted with stItely groves af
sugar pine, yellow pine silver fir, incense cedar
aud kellogg oak. There is a little underbrush
and many flowers. Up above tower giant walls
1900 feet, Using out of the sloping sides.
Three miles up the valley on the south side
are the Roaring Fails and Cascades.
These on a large stream called Roaring
River, which has a dOwnpour OF nearly 500 feet
per mile. The fall. however when the waters
arrive ut the valley, is insignificant in height as
compared with the similarly situated Bridal
Vell of the old Yosemite. But the river has q
series of cascades above the fan which repre-
large as the Bridal Ven Creek and are wildly
beautiful.
Near the fall on the east side are the Cathe-
dral Rocks rather higher than the group of the
same name in the Merced Valley, but otherwise
curiousy like.
Next to Cathedral Rocks is the group
called The Seven Gables, massive ana solid at
Tie base, but eIaborat iy sculptured along the
top and a considerable dis ance down the
front into pointed Gothic arches, the highest
OF which is ab0nt three Thousand feet above
the valley.
.'Eeyond the Gable group and septrated
slightly from it by tie beautiful Avalanche
canyon and cascades, stands tie bold and
majestic mass OF the Grand Sentinel. $500 feet
high, with split vertical font presented 10
the vail as sheer and nearly as extensive as
the front of the Yosemite Half Dome.
Projecting out into the valley from the base
OF tie sheer front Is the Lower Sentinel. 24OO
feet high; and on either side the West and East
sentinel>, about the same height, forming alto
y ther the boldest ana most ma ssively sculp-
tured group i'll the valley.
9th follow in close succe ssion the Sentinel
Cascade. a lace-IEe slrip of wafer 1000 feet
long; the South Tower, 25O0 feet high; the
Bear Cascade. longer and broader than that of
The Sentinel; Cave Dome, 5000 feet high; the
The morning call., 1893-05-28
THE GEYSERS.

In contrast with the wonders which reign
among the clouds are the celebrated Geysers,
which appear 10 trench on the very borders Of
the internal regions themselves.
There are very few geysers in the world. and
everywhere they are regarded as peculiar in-
tereStlug centers OF attraction.
AS long as the geyseqs OF Sonoma County
exist scieutists, world tourists and The curious
and notwithstanding public will continue to
visit them, and they will remain a source of
pride ana wealth TO the State.
The word g'yser Is from the 1celandc
"geysa." meaning "tO burst forth violently"
ana sufficiently describes the effect OF The
Wellknown inermtten, hot and cold springs.
Geysers are found in Iceland, until recently
In New Zealand, where an earthquake wrought
much destruction among the famous terraces
In the island OF New Ulster, and in the United
States west of tile Rockies
Of the latter the eeysers of Sonoma County
come second TO those at Yellowstone Park,
which are considered the most wonderful in
The morning call., 1893-05-28
A SAND TORN IN DEATH VALLEY.

Sphinx. 1000 feet, and the Leaning Dome,
$500 feet.
"The Sphinx. terminating in a curious
sphlnx-lke figure, is the highest rock on the
south wall and one OF the most remarkable IN
the Sierra; while the whole series from Ca
theira Rocks 10 the Leaning Dome at Ihe
head of the valley is the highest, mos tlabo-
rafeiy sculpiured and the most beautiful series
OF rocks of h same extent in any Yosemite IN
the range.
ITO the notthward toward tbe foot OF the
valley grand and impressive rock presents
itself which with Others ot like appearance,
is called tie Palisades. II Is about 2O00 feet
high and is huted so as to look like mass OF
huge slabs set on edge. THIS, though sighter
IN dimensions and less bold III attitude. might
be compared TO FL Captain in the Yosemite"
Travelling along up the valley the next fea-
ture is the Hermit Towers, separated 10y the
Hermit Canyon from the Three Helmits.
These Mr. Muir iii hi, deScription compares 10
the Three Brothers OF Yosemite.
"East of the Hermts stream about the
size of Yosemite Creek enters The valley. form
ing The Booming Cascades. II draws its sources
from The southern stores Of Mount Huiciins
and Mount Kellogg. 1000 and 10000 feet
high. In Avalanche Canyon, directly opposite
the Booming Cascades. there Is another chain
of resoundng minor falls and these two roar
across The valley 10 one another with hearty
accord.
''lbove the Booming Cascades and opposite
the Grand Sentinel stands The North Dome
$3.50 feet high. 1t is set on long bare granite
ridge, with vertical trout like the Washington
column in Yosemite.
"a short distance east OF the Dome Is Lion
Rocks, very striking mass as seen from fa~
vorable standpoint, but lower than the main
rocks of the wall, being only about 1000 feet
high.
.'Reyond the Lion and opposite the East Sen
tlnel i stream called Copper Creek comes
cnan Ing down the valley. II takes Its rise in
ii cluster OF beautiful lakes tfat lie on the Top
OF The divide between the south and middle
forks of Kings River TO the east OF Mount h ell
locg. The broad. spacious basin Ii drains
abounds in beautiful groves of spruce and
silver fir and small meadows and gardens
The morning call., 1893-05-28

ana as the fumarOles, cracks and Hssurrs emit
tbeir boiling waters and vapofs. saturated with
free sulphnrous, sulphurIc, hydrochlorc ACIDS
and caibonic anhydride all having strong dis-
inteeratiDg action ON The formation, everything
Is, IN cons qnence. soft and Welding. Inc
banks and rocks are like clay and sand. easily
dslodeed on the slightest touch-hence the
signs of danger.
This solvent. molten section is fairly in the
midst Of boiling, seethlng, trembling and
smoking PIulonan realm.
1.-The ground under your feet is becoming
hotter and bater and Tie sulphurous fumes
and varorous steam ar: nearly sutfocatlng, rls-
Ing TO nearly 500 feet.
at Is also observed that all these wonderful
suDierranean forces exhibit more activity at or
near the full moon.
''As you proceed along The knob, over
STRAIGHT and narrow path II is literally and
practically important that you follow your
guide. lest one msslep 'hurl you into that tln-
discovered cpun5ry from whose bourne 10
traveller returns
"InnumeIable springs and vents and subter-
rapean outlets squirt and spout in every diiec-
tlon. 'Put0's funchGowP is a large spring OF
hot lemonade, containing Sulphuflc acids and
Sulphates.
"The 'Geyser Smokestack' is a large opening
from which issu volumes OF sulphu laden
dreo feet, where they condense and fall 10 the
ground as water, sulphur. etc.
Next comes The Devils Canopy and the
'Geyser Safety-valve.' an Intermittent scaldAg
spring. which ELECTS streams of boiling watsf to
the height OF fifteen feet; then The Devils
Pulpit little elevation where his Satanic
Majesty presumably goes TO direct The work.
iEgs of his laboratory.
Passing ihe Devils Gfistmill,' with its sub
terranean noises resembling those of a mill
engine, The ravine forks, being commanded by a
plateau called Lovers Leap
"Hence The view of the boiling. see,hlng
roaring sieaming, groaning and bubbling
springs below is one of unrivaled grandeur.
One hundred and sixty feet below yon and all
along the 'Devips Canyon is one mass OF
smoking fury, shrill Whistles regularly inter
hitting puffs and groan>, issuing from the III
terror Of the earth.
This sight alone Is worth the whole trip.
ITO the east is Lovers Retreat pleasant
oasis in the wilderness of sulphurous clouds.
Here also is Temperance SPRING OF cold clear
wafer and near 1t is fallen oak, having 4
knothole in one of is huge branches known as
the 'Postoffcc.'
And 30 we are led on past the Fire Mountain,
with Its hundreds Of small orfces. "Alkali
Lake" the Lava Beds" the Indian Sweat
Bath" 10 the Devils Teakettle"
This teakettle spring is one of the strongest
vap0r springs on the coast. The otitice is three
The morning call., 1893-05-28
CALIFORNIA.

Swrde, who somehow claimed the name OF
charles Evans. "retrifird Charlie" as he was
called. was quite a character. lie Fenced in
The property and lived there alone. except for
Inc society OF dog and goat
lie admitted visitors at so much head. or
staeeiul. and u>ed TO regale them with an
almost perfectly unintellieibe scientific de-
scrptlon of the trees. always winding up by an
Introduction TO his dog and goat.
From every scientist who came along he
gathered up fresh scientific terms, which he
used haphaZard. but with profound belief in
their lucidity. The trees were for him always
''desilcated specimen,.'
lie died six or seven years ago, but not before
reaping quite sum OF money by his astute pre-
emptiou.
Ihe forest Is still In private hands, and nat
uraly continues to attract visitors more and
more.
AS an eloquent relic OF gigantic forces now
al rest, as "A messenger as it were OF prehistoric
lines. telling of strange growths ana marvel
Gus prtservative conditions. this Petrihed For
est must ever te class among The most faS-
clnatlng wonders OF the Stale.
The morning call., 1893-05-28

inclining at an angle varying from thirty TO
forty-fiye degrees.
Three days are required to make the journey
with comfort and satisfaction.
The first night is spent near the line OF per-
petual snow; the next day is consumed in
going to the top OF the mountain and returning
TO the SPOT left in the morning. where the sec
on0 night IS passed, the balance OF the descent
being made the following day.
A good supply OF blankets is required, as the
temperature OF this night camp generally falls
10 the freezing point before morning.
AT an elevation of 49, ,240 feet rhdely circu
lar and nearly level space occurs, evidently
the bottom OF an ancient crater, one side of
which having broken away. portion of its rim
remains. forming The summit of the mountain,
which lifts itself 1904 feet above.
On this level area are number OF oritces
from which steam and sulphurous gases con
stantly escape, the feeble action of this sol
fatara being the only surviving manifestation
OF those stu2endous forces that piled up the
masses that form this extinct volcano.
1t is on record that on one occasion at least
the life of a daring winter explorer was saved
by the warmth Of this solfalara amid the sur
rounding fatal cold.
The thermometer at midday in summer
generally stands below the freezing point on
the summit of The mountain.
The air about its Top is cold, even In the
warmest weather, and is almost always in
brisk circulation, the summit being frequently
swept by strong gales hat keep exposed por
tlons of lis sides drnuded Of snow
The outline of this mountain, from whatever
side viewed. pr sents nearly regular cone,
lhe symmetry of which is somewhat marred,
when observed from the southwest, ny the in
teri ositGn Of Tie side cone not 1000 feet lower
from the main mountain, from which it stands
wholly separated.
TEis lesser peak has been called Shastlna.
Ii has well-defned crater-eup at its sum-
nit that is in diameter about 5000 fe t. or
space large enough to contain about six brooks
square in ely.
This open crater-mouth is about 1900 feet
deep and the gigantic bowl of lava in volcanic
days gave way in its rim on the west side and
poured its red-hot liquid product all over the
country.
Tie sky outline of Shasta has general in
cliuatiOn.nf abnut % degrees on Que side and
of 8 on the other, while the westerly slope OF
Sha>tina incIaes at about SO degrees.
a beautiful impression III taking farewell
look at Mount Shasta Is its elistentng radiance.
For while, as stated, certain exposed and
rocky portions of the main mountain are de-
nuded or snow, these bare spots disappear
when viewed from a distance, the whole sur
face above the snow line seeming an unbroken
The morning call., 1893-05-28
THE PETRIFlED FOREST.

Long ago the surface of California was
studded with active volcanoes
Shasta itself WAS probably one of the later
active craters and the wonderful Geysers are
striking effects of those hardly subdued sub
rranean forces which were the architects OF
tie Yos, mite and kindred scenery throughout
California.
Ii has heen held that the latest volcano in
activity was Mount ST. Helena, which is Sit
uated TO the north of the Napa Valley.
Not far from The mountain in the days of its
elup,ive activity shot up The trees OF tail
TO eSt and one day the mighty shower of ashes
from The belching mouth OF st. Helen's volcano
buried the great trunks completely out OF
sight.
They we're buried In an upright position and
almost Immediately the fatal dust-maSS sur
rounding th"m was cooled Off as 1t became
saturated with water from the bursting forth
of springs an event which the volcanic con-
vulsions of those days made extremely
common.
TIE springs in that locality are all heavily
charged with mineral properties, and these
straightway proceeded TO make of the i'm
prisOned forest a permanent stone Gu iOsity for
future ages.
But future ages might never have discovered
The unique curiosity had it not been for some
subseQuent shock of earthquake, by means OF
NllcH nature laiQ Inc giants OF the forest over
on their sides and brought them up To within
few feet of the surface of the ground.
Such Is The theory OF some authorities as TO
the origin of the Sonoma County petrifed forest.
1t Is located on mountain 1900 feet above
the level OF The sea. about five miles west of
south OF Calistoga and near the dividing ridge
between Napa and Santa Rosa valleys.
The road from Calistoga to the forest Is
picluresqney beautiful. The bills are covered
win groves Of pines, oaks. madrouas. manZani
tas aud other growth. and rs the tourist passes
along lie cannot but be 8trucH by the ever
changing grace and grandeur OF The landscape.
The forest is on the north side OF deep
ravine or canyon and covers an area of 200 or
300 acres-ronghly measured, IL is four miles
long and one mile wde-over which are seat
tered the fragments OF hundreds of petfited
trees. Only portion have as yet been IN
earthed.
The trees are from 100 to I50 feet in length
and from 2 to feet in diameter, and are broken
up into logs OF various lengths.
Judging by what have been crudely uncoy-
cred, the trees show evidence OF having been
formation, which has only been parity washed
away by water.
The logs bear an exact resemblance to wood,
the bark, grain. knots, hnllows and exctes-
cences being shown In unmistakable realism
They are in every state OF crys;alzation, ana
some beautiful polished specimens have been
obtained
Under the microscope the wood appears TO be
similar TO the redwood, but the comparative
shorIness OF the trunk in relation to its diam
The morning call., 1893-05-28

$500 10 5000 f. ct in height. While the dept II OF
the valley below the general surface OF tie
mounta ia mass frt m which II has been carved
Is considerably more than a mie.
Thus il appears" says alr. Muir, THAT this
rev Yosemite is longer and deeper, and lies
EN- bedded IN grander mountains than the we'll
known Yosemite of the Mere d.
As in the latter, Infinite charm is found here
In tile music ana animatIon OF mountain
streams.
Faullke cascad =, trembling fresheis, swirl
ing pools neoped with trout hasten 10 mlngie
WIN the central river Bnt the youmt of fall
ing water Is nearly twice a. great as that which
s"eils the Mereed. For the area OF The basins
DIR ined by the streams entering this "new"
valley Is abont $50 square miles and the eeva-
lion OF The rim of the general basin is from
5000 to upward of 14.o0o feet above the sea;
whhe the general basin of the Merced Valley
mas an area OF $50 square miles and It's eleya-
tion is much lower.
The walls OF the valley, which al the bottom
The morning call., 1893-05-28

eter Is one factor inciining pal9oDtologists 10 a
belief that the forest was composed of some
extinc arboreal species.
In one place Is large tree growing between
and upon the fragments OF u log OF rock which
strik' - the bebOder as an elaborate curiosity
OF nature. and prepares him to understand the
existence OF these logs for countless ages
Another famous peiriied specimen, "The
Pride of the Petrifed Forest" a cut of which is
presented herewith, also shows a sapling grow
ing out Of IT'S hoary length-a veli;able picture
OF "Llfe In Death"
The trees are nearly all lying with the tops
away from st. Helena Mountain by which II
has been sought by some theorists to argue
that they were overwhelmed by lava from that
direction.
Among the well-known men OF science who
have visited this extraordinary natural curios-
ity is Professor Z. c. Marsh
He says of the position OF the forest: "It is
about 1000 feet in height and Is mainly COM
posed OF meiaTorahic rocks of cretaceouS age
which are, in places, as we ascertained over
laid lnconfcrmably by later tertiary strata,
consisting OF ight-colored coarse sandstone
and beds OF straIiiied volcanic ashes.
This ridge had long been covered with a
dense growth OF chaparral, but Just before our
V'slt des ructlye fire had swept over poI-
ton OF II, rendering IL comparatively easy to
examine large tract OF country which appar.
emily had never been explored.
"a careful examin ltion OF the locality where
the first PROSTATE trunks had beeu discovered
soon N de 1t evident that those now on the sur.
face had all been weather out of the vol
canic tufa and sandstones which form the sum-
nit OF this portion of the mountain ridge.
Several large silicified trees were indeed.
subsequently found in the vicinity projecting
fioni the side OF steen blutf, which had par.
lially escaped denudalIon."
Other theories exclude The action OF petrlfy-
ing mineral water as unnecessary, and cite The
discovery of the Pomoeiian petrifactions as in
s.ances Of what lava and scorie can do on occa.
sion.
This remarkable forest, whatever its origin
was first brought into promIn nee about 1864
when Samuel Brannan was "runntngr LII.
Ca!ist0sa Springs.
Socn atierwaid II was formally located by a
The morning call., 1893-05-28

flowed majestic glaciers and in which now flow
and sing the bright Sierra rlvers
Then he particularizes: "rhe most famous
and accessible of these canyon valleys, and also
the one HAT presents their most striking and
sublime features on The grandrst scale, is the
Yosemite, 81 uaied on the upper waters OF tue
Merced at ali elevation of 1000 feet above the
level of the sea.
1T is about seven miles long, half a mile to
mile wide and nearly mile deep and is carved
in Ihe solid granite FLANK of the range.
"The wallis of the valley are made up OF
rocks, mountains in size, hardly separated
from each other by side canyons and gorges;
and these are so sheer 10 front and so com-
pacily and harmoniously built together on a
level floor That the place, comprehensvely
seen, looks like some immense hall or temple
lighted from above"
SO much for mere preliminary description,
which, like a far-off glimpse or apt prelude,
whess the appetite for closer and more appre-
ciatiye encounter.
From the heights" says Mr.. Muir, 1--WE at
length gain our first general view of the valley
view that breaks suddenly upon us IN all its
glory far and wide and deep; new revelation