Fairhaven herald. [volume] (Fairhaven, Wash.) 1890-????, 1893-05-23
YHE sTovEPl9e ma.
Something About the High silk Hat-In
History and How IL l. Made.


The high silk hat-the plug. the
stovepipe, call it what you willis a
comparatively modern institution.
About sixty years ago the silk tile was
introduced into England from Flor
ence. Since then the stovepipe has
undergone many strange transforms
tons.
The early silk hat was a rough az
fair. 1t was so heavy that the Eng
fish dudes OF that time complained
that 1T was like carrying a bushel
basket" Besides it was clumsy and
hard TO handle. 1t did not have the
fine tapering crowu which adds to its
picturesqueness, nor did it have the
symmetrical curling brim. Contem-
pOrary pictures and cartoons in Lon
don Punch give one fair idea Of the
styles then in vogue. Thus, the cock
ney sported one kind Of high hat;
the turfman another kind; the gentle
man another; while the dons and I'M
dergraduates of Oxford and Cambridge
had their peculiar style
Then, again, there has been quite a
change Of opinion in regard 10 the
wearing Of silk hats. Some years ago
the young man that wore "A silk hat
was a marked individual. His stove
pipe became the butt Of wit and ridi-
Guile even among his friends, and the
target Of the small boy. For change
of sentiment about the silk hat almost
everything is due to the manufacturer
who has made the tile a thing Of
beauty and Joy forever Recently
we had a talk with prominent Broad
way manufacturer on the subject.
"Yes," said he, there have been
great improvements in the methods OF
making silk hats. Now, what do you
suppose the body Of this one is made
off" at the same time holding up a
glossy silk tile. We admitted our ina
bility to answer the question.
"Well, the body Of this silk hat is
calico"
"Calico7"
eyes. You see, there are two kinds
Of silk hats-light and heavy weight.
Most Of the bodies of the heavy hats
are made Of felt"
"How is the silk put ONT"
''The body of the calico or felt is
first dipped into hot water and then
stretched on a block. After drying
the body is stiffened with a solution Of
gum shellac and alcohol, and after
ward with a solution OF varnish 10
prevent 1t striking through TO the sur
face. A cover OF fine silk plush is then
cut and sewed 10 fit exactly the body.
When the silk covering is accurately
fitted IT is smoothed over with hot
iron. The heat striking into the glue
dissolves it and in drying connects the
silk plush with the body. This ex.
plains why severe wetting ruins a
silk hat.
THE hat is then placed on a revolv-
ing cylinder, where it is polished
with soft cloths. This process Of
dressing and polishing is known as
'veluring. The glossy appearance
comes from the application Of hair
cloths and velvet 'velures' to the nap
of the silk"
What kind Of plush do you use7"
THE best silk plush is imported
from France. 1t usually comes in
three pleces-for the tip. crown and
5rim. The skill consists in knowing
how 10 put the silk plush on 70 that
the seam will be invisible 10 the eve.
Down along the sides Of the crown the
edges Of the silk covering are allowed
10 lap over. They are then pressed
together by hot iron and finished
perfectly smooth by means Of revolv
ing brushes.
After a hat is finished as TO the
crown and brim. it is lined with
watered or embossed paper, and a
strip Of enameled leather is sewed
around the inside edge. Then it is
bound and banded. Lastly, the com
pleted hat is wrapped in tissue paper
and put into box for the retailer. D.