The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1893-04-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS
WHAT DELSARTE HAS DONE FOR
THE WOMEN OF TODAY.

Graceful Attitudes Now Go with Lovely
CORNERSTONE of the Latest Fashionable
Attire-Beautifui Costumes for House
and Street.
copyright, 1903, by American Press Associa.
toni
Delsarte worked great good when he
taught women that they could be graceful
without tight lacing and added to that the
hexibility and expression of feature that all
can obtain. Time was that the feminine face
was as immobile as n wax figure with a
perpetual primp on the lips, but now the
fashion is to let human emotions show
through the face and give it the mysterious
charm of variety of expression.
With Delsarte so loose and flowing
robes and soft, long folds. Delsarte would
have found it impossible to be graceful in
an "eelskin Dress" in vogue few years
since and even now there remains much
to be desired in many of the gowns from an
aesthetic point of view.
However, fashion sets its seal on all that
is large and noble in a woman's daily life;
it smiles on her efforts to break away from
tradition and help fit herself for her flu
ture duties by giving her athletic clubs,
swimming baths fencing lessons and
horseback riding, and encourages bright,
brisk walks that bring roses to the cheeks
and glowing health to the body.
Decidedly health is the fashion these
days-a good sound mind in good sound
body. There are few ladies now who pose
as semi-invalids. The Berkeley Athletic
club for young women had about 400 young
ladies, married and single, from our best
families, where they could go and have all
training, some of the ladies being very dar-
ing and skillful. The price of admission
and strict rules made it exclusive enough
to keep out any undesirable person, and the
result will be felt in generations to come.
Another fashion as pleasant as it is USE
full is encouraging any young lady to care
fully develop any special talent she may
have SO well that if any sudden reverse
came she would be able to earn her own
living. This has been done in very many
cases, and many young ladies belonging to
families of enormous wealth could earn a
living from the very start. Some of them
assist their fathers or brothers in business.
and some even have little private ventures.
l know OF one young lady who is receiving
a fair income from an invention of her own
Several young ladies play different musical
to take places as professionals if need falls
upon them. The day of elegant idleness
has passed for the brilliant and beautiful
American girl with the pretense of frail
constitution.
Perhaps those whose delicacy-which so
often degenerates into consumption-we
read of might have been as splendid
creatures physically as our girls of today if
they had not laced their waists into fifteen
inches and worn slippers in all weathers
and no flannel underwear.
Contrast q belle Of those days with one of
today. The waist of the latter measures
twenty-four inches ard she is Proud of it.
She wears tea gowns which make her look
four times her own size, and enjoys the free
dom. She has quaint frocks made where the
waist is up under the arms and the sleeves
pulled to an astonishing size. She has
them cut square in the back and any way
in front that will admit of utter comfort
Some new ideas in tea gowns would not,
| think, be out of place here One that
was a dream" had the front made of soft
blue china silk, with deep embroidery in
pink and messy greens. The same was on
the ruflles to the sleeves, which only came
to the elbows-and, by the way, many tea
gowns have elbow sleeves with or without
lace or null undersleeves, finished with ro-
settles and ends of Tom Thumb ribbon.
When there is tea" gloves can be worn
if desired. | almost forgot to finish the
description of this elegant gown. The back
was of rich brocade in dark ultramarine
blue and apple green, combination of
colors that one scarcely knows whether to
like or not, yet when a garment shows a
perfect ensemble one thinks it NICE
fa, l,x- r,I, ,Nf
yet out of her teens that was very odd, but
effective. The back had short waist, with
a skirt of gold brown satin plated to it in
one box plat in the back, the rest gathered
The waist had a guimpe of shrimp pink Jap
anese Grape accordion plated, and in the
front fall of accordion plating from
throat to foot held in at the waist loosely
by golden chain that started from under
the arms. There was a rose plated ruffle
of the brown, lined with pink around the
back breadths and short puffed sleeves