The morning call., 1893-02-03

worn. Now, the best way TO answer your
question is to show you some OF the latest
importations from Paris; they willillustrate
how tie skirts of the newest gowns are be-
ing extended"
No woman could have gazed unmoved
upon the dazzling array of gowns that Nine.
Trufert aud her mermaidens unwrapped
tenderly from issue-paper and brought out
of the boxes in which they had jOurneyed
from Paris.
Now, this gown" said madame, indcat-
ing a mod fcation Of an Empire walking
dress. sis much fuller in the skirt than most
Of the latest fashions here; you see how it
can be further extended" and she pointed
cut deep fold at either side. cunningly
concealed by buttons that could be removed
al few moments notice. Again, all the
underskiris from Paris are very fun and
almost produce the effect Of crinoline-
but ho0pS~ and madame shook her head
in mute protest against the hideous idea.
There is no proportion 10 the big hoped
skirt" she continued. "and a dress not
made within coed proportions cannot be
elegant
Now look at this bell-skirt on the bias"
she continued. at extends naturally and
makes crinoline unnecessary. When l
say 'Del-skirt' l use the term in the Paris
ian sense of a garment that is the shape Of
q bell, gradually extending outward toward
the hem.
Look at this brecaded velvet; it stands
out because 1t IS lined with heavy satin and
crinoline; but there are no hoops. a crino-
line is not really a hOODed skiTt-used cor
rectly the term indicates a stiff undeTskirt
made OF the material called crinoline.
Look al those two gowns: they are
both a modified form of the empire and
have draperies at the front aud back. At
present there is a fight going on IN Paris
between the modernized empire style and
the modes Of 1880. Indeed, the gowns Of
today are more or less modernized editions
Of styles dating from the reign Of Louis XIII
to the reign Of Louis Philippe. Hoped
skirts came In under the second empire,
but the reign Of Louis Philippe brings Us
dangerously near 10 that period.
A style takes in Paris by being pretty,
and every house is different in the fashions
Il sets forth. The Psrisians may adopt the
hoped skirt. 1t is impossible to say at pres
ent but such a style Of dress is unhealthy,
and, like all other exaggeratlons. it is ugly
and inartistic.'
And said good-by to Nine. Truffert. con-
WINGED that so far at least the fuller skirts
that Paris is sending US have reached moth
Ing but graceful dimensions though to fur
Their discover what the future holds in store
! continued the investigation.
Worth says yes" observed Nine. Biber,
although she did not quote Worth's words
with that air Of mild resignation which
most ladies exhibit when referring 10 the
Hutoerat's opinions upon dress.
"a year and half ago." continued Nine.
Biber, when | was in Paris. four leading
houses had already shown hoped skirts.
The establishment next door to Worth had
them: bat the whole four were considered
eccentric houses-houses that set forth ex-
aggerated fashions. At that time Worth
refused TO pronounce an opinion, now he
has declared in favor Of hoped skirts
''All my customers hold up their hands In
horror and scream No, madame, no; give
Us anything but hoped skirts And yet"
added Nine. BlbeT, with the resignation OF
3 MOhammedan prOnOuDcing Kismet-it is
fate-''yet if hoped skirts become the
fashion we shall all wear them; we shall
have to follow the styles in spite of the fact
that we shall be very uncomfortable. Nc
one can move about or sit down with ease
In hoops.
MY ladies object even to very full skirts
Some mOdistes are said to be making dresses