Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1893-09-14

purple shadows of evening were falling
among its heather swarded corries when
we whirled through the Pass of Awe.
Then came a long stretch of desolate
looking heath. Then followed dim
glimpses of the weird ruins of Castle
Dunstaffnage and the misty Falls of
Lora, So it was night, with picture sque
lights and shades upon the Sound, and
gentle hum of quiet and repose within
the streets, when the train crept into
Oban, the most noted watering place of
Scotland, and fine large creature with
the dialect of Skye and an atmosphere
of usquebaugh guiltless of the faint of
excise, after informing me with win
some honesty that both himself and all
the hotels were "fu'," for a silver sax
pence, in hand paid, conducted me with
some forgiyable detour and delay to
very old, very tiny, but still very
tidy and comfortable inn.
The guidwife of the inn had some
doubts about admitting me. She heard
my wanderers story in silence, and ex-
amined my credentials critically. Then
she retired for whispered consultation
with her female servants, during which
/ overheard with some trepidation the
remark
"He Gamma be muckle wi but ain wee
handbag"
20, ay," was urged by another voice,
shut moDy Yonkees ha' god teed oop
ptheer claes."
Aweel, I'll take him o'ernicht, an put
him i tn Dochter's room, if he's ma i'll
to tholem
She babe me enter with some asperity,
lighted candle and conducted me up a
narrow winding stair. We entered
large, low-ceilinged room, with two
tiny windows like embrasures of fort
alice, whose furniture consisted solely
of high old-fashioned bed, rickety
table of deal, a huge armchair and a
rag carpet of the olden zig-zag pattern.
She set the candle upon the deal table
with a bang, and then with the air of
comforting some wondrous favor alb
ruptly asked:
"Dye ken where We are noo?"
gave it up as pleasantly as l could,
not yet being familiar with the geog-
raphy of Oban.
Dye ken ABBOTT Dochter johnson p"
"Ihe great DIR. johnson who once
visited Scotland with Boswell?"
"Ay, that's tn mon. Ye've gotten
the varra room he loadged in. He had
the bonniest NIGHT here in Scotland
I'm sure though tn hoos was weel.quat
o him, he snoored sac load tn plaster
a crackitl But va ha' tn same chair,
the same bed an ~. It's muckle dc.
light to a. that COON"
And the same bed-clothes ?" |
asked ruefully, with a glance at the
stuffy belongings. "You know, nv
good woman, that was 1870 years ago."
Il doot, sir" she answered will spirit,
"ye're takin' me oop wrang. Dinna be
sac muckle auld-mou'd Deed tn claes
ha' been weel WASN'T syuel
And With this the guidwife snarped
herself out of the room in high dudGeon.
but returned shortly in restored good
humor and with request for my order
for tea.
For the benefit of those whoscome
after me, should reveal the truth that
u is one thing to order q meal at a
scottish, or for that matter at an Eng.
llsh inn, and quite another accomplish
ment to secure what you are led to
believe the hostel affords. do not refer
10 tnose large and respectable city
establishments where, if your bill NAV
De more confusing than at the average
american motel, your comfort will be
quite as well looked after, but to those
countless pretty and coy places Of en-
tertainment one must needs SO often re-
sort to in extended travel in tine inter.
esting provincial regions of Britain.
Alter a long days journey the least
carnal of US will dwell upon enticine
visions. OF savory chops and luscious
cold joints, and the appetite is even bold
enough to modestly plead for warm
potatoes. Settled at your inn, these for.
givable longings lind immediate expires
sion. You decide on having nice tidy
supper in your own room. "Whut wonld
you like for tea, sir?" evokes The hope.
full inquiry as to what there may be
most handy and hearty in the house
"Oh, anything at all you like, sir,'' is
invariably the placid response. Rraptur.
Gus professions Of steanling toothsome
things are instantly conjured. You
suggest mutton chop, thick, rare and
hot, plate OF cheese, tea or coffee and
cream, walter, by ali means cream, and
perhaps toast or biscuit. Your waiter
begins to wear a look of panied sur
prise. "l'll see at once, sir" and he dis
appears; disappears for such ruesom,
time, that you are in proper mood fol
compromise when he returns with
"The chops are bout, sir, an was tolt
TO say, sir, 'ow as we never serves
pertaters fur tea, sir" "Oh, very well
make it some cold joint and cheese
then; plenty of it now; and here's {
sixrence for yourself. Look sharp, now
I'm hungry" There is laggardness il
his step and tone, but he answers yor
respectfully enough "All right, sir, III!
see directly"
A long time now elapses. You begir
to really worry. Perhaps you may have
the temerity to pull the tassel of a hug,
bell cord, and alarmlngly hear the 70
sultant changing and clamor like tina
from the efforts of new set of change
ringers. A shock-headed maid plump
her shock head within the door. She
too, seems alarmed, and she asks, "W ha
might you be wantin', slrg" You tos
her sixpence and explain. She alst
says she'll see about it directly" Tn,
waiter at length taps at your door, blu
does not come in. He YEARLY insert
his napkined arm and portion of hi
head. Sorry, sir, but the cheese an
the joints locked up, sir Might Their
be anything else you might be wishin
10 ave, sir?"
Rayenous and desperate you repres
burning words and handy furnl, lr
and at last gasp out; "In-heaven's-
name-ls-there-anything-in-this-
house-l-can--get- to-eat-before--
-starVeg" The door is closed a little
but the voice behind it returns: "Oh
yes, sir. Am an heggs, sir. Hexcellen
am, an fresh laid heggs, sir. VIII i
be pot o. tea with EN-, sir, an som
bread an butter ?" All VERY neat an
tl.r an 10 -