Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-05-14
mitted to the dinins.room without es-

uiIlSu W tuo usuIub-lOOm WituOus os-
0orts.
This is one Of the old established rules
OF the house, and the laws OF the Modes
and Persians were not mere rigidly en-
forced than those laid down by the
founders Of this great place OF refresh
ment. 1t is a rule which once IN a while
provoked an indignant protest from
some strong-minded woman who has
been denied food and drink because OF
her lack of escort. but il Is just such
rules as this that have served to keep
the house what 1t has always been and
what Ii is to-day.
There is another rule which applies to
the cafe, and which has been enforced
on certain rare occasions. II any man
makes himself conspicuously or persist
emily obnoxious to the habltues OF the
place his name Is placed Oh the "black
list" that is to say, the walters are In
structed not to serve Mr.. Blank under
any pretext whatever. No attempt is
made to exclude the blacklIsted one
from the building. He may take a seat
at one Of the Handicapped tables in the
cafe and read every paper that is on file
IutIt. UuL ~ Will UO lupDcclOlt lOI ulul
to obtain o particle of food or drink. To
be sure, be has ecourse in the courts.
and II he brought suit a jury would
surely award him six cents damages; but
the two or three years litigation which
such a suit would involve would not be
pleasant years for him, and he would
have to carry his case right up TO the
Supreme Court every time be wanted a
drink, so after oil, IL might be better
for him 20 go some other place.
The cafe, by the way, is as plain an
apartment as ono could imagine. The
walls are without ornamentation OF any
sort, not even a bathing nymph. The
table and chairs are solid. simple, and
handsome and designed for use and com
fort rather than for show. As for n free
lunch such as is offered In almost evory
other cafe and saloon in the city, the
dead and gone chiefs OF the house would
rise In their graves were such q thing TO
be ever thought OF by their present sue
cessor. Ia short, the Delmonico policy
has always been to rely solely on their
wines. cookery aud service and tho pres
tige OF their name to attract customers.
AZ lou Uurlu0so ] u OObu Ou4t " iOo-
taurant, as well as Ia the private rooms
upstairs, Is at It's height. Downstairs In
q great kitchen, which extends under
the entire building, NJ. Charles Rauh-
ofer literally rules the roost, not TO men
ton the entrees, soups, aud sauces. be
is a ~fne-Iooking, gray-mustached
Frenchman, who looks upon his calling
as one Of the learned professions, and
has high ideas as TO what people should
eat and drink. He has been chef here
for nearly twenty years. and is respon-
sible for the quality Of supplies pur-
chased, as well as for the dishes served
upstairs. He earns a princely salary for
q cook, and is q person OF no small I'M
portance In the estimation OF metropoll-
tan bibeurs and eplcures.
Just now he Is examining q consign-
ment OF 1000 pounds OF live terrapln,
worth 10 the shell about 81. so per pound.
They have been shipped in barrels from
Maryland, and will De kept alive 10 the
storehouse to be cooked as fast as they
are needed. Terrapin are precious, aud
each one must be weighed and entered
in the 'terrapln book" which Is relig-
iousIy kept by NJ. Rauhofer. and whose
pages reflect the ebb aud 1ow OF the
city's prosperity. In good times those
who eau afford 1t eat plenty Of t%errapin.
but when hard times come a-knocking
at the door then ''Brer Ter'pin's" life Is
more secure.
There are eighteen cooks standing 10
front Of the long range where the broii-
ing aud ste wing is done. The game Is still
roasted on the spit before Ia open fire
instead Of being baked In q modern
oven. There Is one man who does moth
ing Jul mix sauces aud anothtr who
makes salads. The walters bring their
orders direct to the cooks. and return
for the dishes ten or twelve or twenty
minutes later, as the case may be. Ia
large dinner Is ordered In advance, the
chef has a list OF the dishes and the
number Of guests and the successive
courses are cooked and sent upstairs
inst ten minutes apart. Supplies OF
every variety OF food imaginable are
keut on hand 10 fee boxes and store
rooms and can be drawn on 81 any mo-
ment's notice. Chops, steak. fowl, aud
other ordinary eatables are kept ready
for the fire and can be cooked without
q moments delay.
Until nearly midnight the kitchen is
a scene of sizzling hustle aud activity,
for there are dinners eoinR on oil even
ing and there is an extra rush az eleven
when the theater parties come In. Then
M. lie Chef takes OF his white cap and
Jacket, puts on conventional attire and
detarts for bis home and ~ / o'clock
the house il closed aud left 10 the charge
OF a Waterman tili It re-opeDs the next
morning at six. When 1t closes the young
proprietor may be seen marching OF 70
some Engiish chop house near by for .
Welsh RABBIT and q glass Of aleior his
days work Is done. =