Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-12-09
The Changes Are Very Rapid Now
adays.
OF The TINE OF LOUIS XIII.
Ribbons Will Be Used as Trim
ming for Everything.
MODERATELY FULL KIRTS.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special correspondence OF The Evening Star.
NEW YORK. December s. 1893.
Rapid are the changes OF styles nowd-
days. and the latest scanning of the firma-
ment of modes discovers the fashions of
Louis XIII on the horizon This means an
accession OF dignity and grace. - few char
iacterlstics of the period to be revived are
as follows: Bodices withions point in front
and cut high ON the hips: skirts of the
same material the bodice open in front
over contrasting petticoat; shoulders are
Bloping. and sleeves pulled To a great
size emphasize the sloping effect Sug-
gestions OF all this are already ap-
pearing. W. may expect soon TO see
stifened collars of muslin and lace that
extend smoothly from the throat away out
over the shoulders, adding to their slope.
Such collars are also worn with low neck
dresses. being set into the edge of the
gowns neck The richest needlework will
be used on these accessories, and they will
be finished usually with Vandyke points.
CUFFS likewise turn back from the wrists,
being narrow at the hand and spreading
tver the sleeves half way to the elbow.
Other cuffs give the effect of an under
sleeve loosely turned back. Many delicate
fints are put together in gowns. and stom-
achers richly jeweIed will be worn. Already
cry. Evening gowns viii have long sleeves.
Ribbons will trim everything. as in the
days of Louis XIII. when every one was
ribbon mad" Skirts Will be only moder-
ately full anu their spread viii be much re-
duced-
Current Styles.
As has been said. these styles are only
on the horizon. and whether they will rise
10 the zenith or sink cut of sight for long.
long time. like Norway winter sun, is as
yet rot determined. Pretty gowns In the
current styles are for che present safer
models. One may be described as a dress Of
brown diagonal cloth, with the skirt per
fectly plain and very full. The front and
cuffs are Of brown velvet, with brocaded
and horizontal designs in buttercup gold.
The draped belt is of surah and the front
Is set of by a jabot OF cream lace The
other dress IS designed as a visiting cos
tune. and is made from heliotrope cloth
trimmed with velvet in the same shade and
set passementerie. The skirt is three and 4
half yards long and snug at the hips. The
trimming consists of three bias folds of
velvet heavily embroidered with jet beads.
The bodice has htJe1 lining, over which
the stuff IS drape1. ana the fronts may nave
the usual Darts or the fuiIness can De push
ed u-der the vertical bands of embroidery
used for adOrnmenJ. The belt is made of
heliotrope velvet CT satin taken bias and
hemmed on both sides. and the Jacket is
velvet and reaches to the top of the belt
at the back and sizes. while the fronts
ternlI ate IN sharp points. Ii is lined with
silk, and its revers are faced with cloth
and sarnished with jet embroidered with
velvet The standing collar is hidden by a
Henri III ruching Of white marabout ieath-
srs.
The last bodice runs to perpendicular d.
visions. but there is a tendency Just now
which prompts woman to divide herself into
any number of zones horizontally. giving
each zone a different colcr. Her cape or
collar will be one color and material the
rest of her bodice another, and the skirt
will show two or more shades distributed
horizontally, but you never see dresses made
with one color and the other side a contrast
Ing shade. Sleeves may be different in color
and material from all the rest of the gown
but they are always like each other IL is
TO be hoped that mention of these facts will
not suggest another phase for fashions
frenzy TO follow.
The little girls aprons run to stripes.
Zoo. but In most cases the up and
down divisions are only the pattern of the
batiste which comprises it. The garment
Is garnished with two bands OF insertion
embroidered with clover leaves. 1t has a
square bib attached to a square yO!k. alike
back and front, and has two STRAPS fisten-
ing TO the bani The yoke and small pocket
are trimmed with embroidery.
The mothers costume may be an elabora te
affair made OF Silver-gray cloth with a faint
pink tinge. with white MORE antique for
plastron and revCrs, coarse netting for the
ruching around the skirt and tuIie Insertion
embroidered with gold. The skirt has a
slight train. is lined with silk ana garnished
inside with a lace trilI. The pointed bodice
Is plain ard is trimmed with a pointed
p,astrOn cOllarette Of watered silk garnishei
with bands OF gold embroidered tulIe. 1t
Is finished with revers forming ar upright
ruching on the shoulders, the collar being
cut in connection with the piastron. which is
edged with deep lace fri!I and put on sep
hasten
Sleeves have balloon F.yffs edged with gray
FUTILE trimmed with q tuIIe ruching and long
cIfIs of gold of embroidered tulle.
ONcrss<i-ts.
OverskiTtS have not yet fnterfered with
the smooth fit about the hips An especially
pretty sort is cut with a long point reach
ing to a little below the knees in 'front.'
and shortening at he sides 10 almost noth-
ing at the back About the hips IN font
and at the sides it is gorei closely 20 the
figure. while at the neck. where ii Is hardly
more than little frill. 1t stan IS out tuli
The whole Overdress is edged with a deep
fOunce OF lace set on very full The Ioce
fms out prettiiy at the sides and baok M
hangs almost to the hem in front Tho
uaderskirt has three frills of narrow lace
n the :JOt.
Model for the Elderly.
A costume. designed for those past mid
de age, is made from black satin OUCH
a round collar in back and leave the ton
or the boise open. The standing collar is
finished with closely pleated f-.l or rucb-
ing made o. yellow crepe de chine. Tine
sleeves have large pun SHRED near the
elbow to to-rl pulling. OF ruching tieI
with black satin ribbon having a yeJIou,
ptcOt edge The bottom of the bodice &C.
finished with a hOunce or basque Of yeJIoyv
Satin covered with black lace and edced
with jet fringe. The bodice ia slightly point
ell in front and back and the basque stops
about four inches from the center on each
side, thus leaving the front open for about
eight inches This full space is covered
With narrow pointed belt of yellow and
black ribbon. held in place by velvet
-roSetle on either side. The skirt Is lined
with yesfsy silk and trimmed on the inside
with black lace frill Both sides OF the
skirt are appNqUa1 panels of yellow satin
covered with jet embroidered tuIle and held
In place by rosettes. one aear the bottom
the other thirty inches higher.
With Sleeves which Are n Care.
Sleeves are. many OF them. made with
puffs spreading enormously at the elbow
and even though the pun is narrower on
the inside Of the arm than on the outside,
TIE woman who wears them must stand
with her hand on her hips, or crush her
Sleeves As for getting on d coat, WELL
10 armnOle is made big enough for such
puffs 70 get through either way. The ell