davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1893-04-22
THE CITY.

#a
j. #. Stahl returned this afternoon
from st. Paul.
Prof. Goff and o. o. Murray returned
from Sioux Falls.
DR.. Nannestadt returned from his
visit to Aberdeen.
DR.. E. L. Clark came in on the west
train from Winfred.
Rev. w. J. Cleveland went to Howard,
where he breaches tomorrow.
d. HI. Moses, special Worlds Fair ex-
cursion agent Of the Milwaukee 4 st.
Paul company was in the city to-day.
Father Flynn departed for Howard
this afternoon, where he will conduct
services tomorrow, his place here being
supplied by Father Stecher, Of Howard
Wanted-Grlto do second cooking at
Lake Park hotel, Madison, 8. ID.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1893-04-22

AS everybody is habe to arrangements
Of the stomach and bowels, the need OF
Ayers Pills is universal. They are the
best cathartic.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1893-04-22

Breaking TO let and horses for sale.
Apply to j. A. Rogers, or Scott u Sheri-
dan, Madison, s. d.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1893-04-22

Wanted--Girl to do second cooking at
Lake Park hotel, Madison, s.. ID.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1893-04-22

1t would be worth while for the ladies
to bear in mind that il they take a gentle
course of Ayers Sarsaparilla in the
spring, they will have nc trouble with
"prickly heat" "hives," ~"sties," "boils"
or s.black beads" when summer comes.
Prevention is better than cure.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
PRICE: FIVE CENTs

The dress skirts are sewed onto wide
black satin band, which abolishes the
usual necessity of wearing q belt. also
relieves that inevitable worried feeling 4
woman has that her skirt has slipped be-
low her belt; or to express it in New
Orleans vernacular. that ssher sonl and
body are parting.''
I saw some charming serges yesterday,
one was of heavy black of the wiry sort.
The neck was cut perfectly round and low,
fastening with one hook and eye. Around
this neck large plated collar fell, COM
ing to the shoulders, and finished off with
five bands of narrow black satin ribbon.
Another was dashing one in grey and
black.
The straight back effects were used, the
| large sleeves ending smaller at the waist
and buttoning there with five small black
buttons. A wide sailor collar banded
with five rows of black satin ribbon ended
satin ribbon. With it went the broad
Drimmed black sailor hat with black satin
! band.
+ Still another, of pale fawn-colored cloth,
| had double revers with three rows of seal
brown soutache; it was worn over a frilled
! blouse of cream India silk dotted with
| China blue, the color of the corn-howers
| in the Wearer's hat.
| When the street bolero has no sleeves
| the Soutache edges the armhole to match
the double revers. Some of these Jackets
seen at swell importers are piped with a
! contrasting color. Soutache is confined to
the revers, cuffs and collar; piping edges
| the entire jacket.
The trimmings of the house boleros are
more dressy. Gold, silver and jeweled
! passementeries are used on all the dark
velvets either as an edging or, in larger
| ornaments, applqued onto the front and
in ''V'' fashion in the back. Some very
handsome boleros are edged with small
gold sequins which simmer and shine in
the most delightful fashion, making
them quite like the genuine Spanish
article. Others are studded all over with
small Jet cabochons. a very few are
quite without ornamentation except for
the brilliant, rich Innings of which one
catches an occasional glimpse. These
Innings are so wonderfully handsome that
it is something of a temptation to wear
the bolera wrong side out.
HAREY DELE HALLMARK.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

gowns. / take care to point this out be-
cause just recently 1 described the ex-
treme tendency of fashion in this matter.
The Paris dressmakers as a rule are
holding themselves conservatively re-
garding crinoline and it will be found
that thus far they have used it mostly in
cloths and other fabrics OF such weight as
can be thus distended without losing its
quality. There is not to be seen in Paris
rs yet skirt that is noticeably distended.
REGAL MAeNIFIcENCE.
Inspired by doge's mantle is an i'm
perial cloak of velour de fantastic in a
medieval pattern of cream and brown,
that sweeps to the floor with that superb
outward curve that marked the robes OF
ROYAL Venice. 1t is slashed nearly to the
waist at sides and back TO give an added
richness by displaying the gown beneath
and the yellow satin of the lining. The
doge's collar is of Russian sable, held with
q clasp of many colored gems, and above
It the yoke is heavy Venetian embroidery.
% Full sleeves fall over deep cuffs of the
same embroider.
The seams curve outward as they de-
Ecend; a new idea in cloaks called forth
by the new wide skirts. Such a cut is
necessary unless the cloak is gathered
very full onto yoke.
TURQUOISE AND PURPLE.
a Byzantine gown with all the color
Rplendor its name suggests, duplicate OF
enc designed for Bernhardt, is IL purple
velvet-true porphyry colors, bordered
with Russian sable, with sleeves of tor
uuoise velvet over which fall purple epau-
lets, heavily embroidered. A band OF
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

makes a tall person jaunty, the short per-
son taller. When the quips and frills are
put on, the lean one looks plump; when
they are left oil, the fat ones look trim.
That we have an Americanized edition OF
it makes no difference; the comfort of it
is there the same.
A Spaniard, Mexican, or Lower Cali
fornian would laugh to scorn our serge
affair for the street with it's soutached
and ribboned lapels, with their race-love
of color. they cut theirs of heaviest vel
vet. braid it in gold gaIloon, fasten on to
it hundreds of spangles, only then con-
sidering it fit to slip. over their heavy silk
shirts of crimson or yellow.
But while we cannot copy after these
typical women in our street wear, strictly
conventional as we Americans are in our
out of-door costumes, still we follow
them when we come to housewear. l saw
bewildering little affair, worn by a
young hostess at dinner few evenings
ago.
Her skirt was OF pale blue, bengaline
dashed with black lines, and having
five small founces at intervals of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

strewn with opals. The round bodice
has a full Louis frieze collar also en-
broidered. Elsewhere / have seen biege
silk gown trimmed with box plaitings, as
seen in the drawing, with yoke and
sleeve puffs overland with sort of net
woven with colored stones The rutfie
headings were of the same.
DARK BLUE FoULARD.
The collection has an artistic fouIard
, full of practical suggestions; it is Japa-
nese pattern of dark blue broken with a
pattern of red and gold. 1t is trimmed
with dark blue mousseline de sole and
galoon of the same colors thickly set with
colored stones. The garment is in one
piece and opens at one side the front,
from the top of the shoulder down to the
feet; but this opening could not be
guessed. the bodice front is in gathers,
and at the belt line in front the material
is cut across so that the skirt fuluess may
be disposed on either side, leaving some
ten inches across the front nearly plain
There is no attempt in the cut OF this
skirt to make it flare at bottom; it appears
nearly as full at the top-a wise reserve
since the material is soft and thin. But
in the back it IS somewhat held out by
petticoats, and if it were not, though cut
round 1t would some inches more than
reach the floor.
A breadth of mousseline de sole its
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
Picking NutmeGs.

Fancy picking nutmegs. This is what
the children of South America and the
tropical islands do almost as soon as they
can walk. Gathering nutmegs is some
thing like gathering chestnuts. Nutmeg
trees are planted in groves. The trees
are twenty feet apart and have long green
leaves, very dark and glossy.
The nutmeg is enveloped In husk
about the size and shape of a rusty-coat
apple. When perfectly ripe the husk
splits and nut falls out. The kernel of
the nut is the nutmeg Of commerce. 1t
is beaten from the husk by children, who
climb the nutmeg trees and thrash the
branches with poles. The air is some
times so heavy with perfume that the
young nutmeg gatherers are overcome by
its heaviness and have to be borne from
the grove on the shoulders of companions.
-Nelr York Led0er,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

ing the rose down over the white, and
ends at the belt line with a rosette.
Note the mingling and distribution
of color in this goWn-green, rose and
white.
Imitation gems are quite the rage of the
season, and are found even on galoons
for day gowns. Bonnets above all are
enriched with them.
PATHS GOWN.
Modelled after a gown for Patti, and
giving key to the summer modes for
evening wear, is beautiful CONNECTION in
blush gray silk richened with marvel
lous glittering pattern upon it in relief
whose effect can be best described az
resembling q collection of many colored
stones melted and run together.
This gown is a square decollete. The
front is one piece without darts, falling
ont from the lining with little ease over
the belt line, and is framed on either side
with pale pink mousseline de sole strewn
with gold sequins, which is gathered at
the angles OF the neck. again at the waist,
and falls to the bottom like a sash. The
sleeves are large soft puffs of the silk.
The skirt has no border.
TEA GOWNS.
Powered velvets, silks, filnay gauze and
colored stones, thrown deliciouslv to-
gether with just a suspicion of neglige-
enough for grace; this makes The tea
gown of the moment, the most charlning
of modern gowns when successful. Only
1t should have a better name. The French
call it robe d'interieur, which is an i'm
provement.
Fancy CONNECTION of this sort, sug-
costing the Louis Quinze stvle, of the
green velvet printed over with pompa-
dour pattern in several colors. Such rich
material needs no trimming and has none
1t opens over wide front of white silk
gauze draped over yellow satin and is
crossed by wide belt of green satin rib
bon. The gauZe is decorated with ruf1es
of the same printed with a pattern in
gold; tiny ruffies form a yoke; cluster
OF three ruffies is on the bottom, and an
other cluster is sewed in festoon diagon-
ally across the front. The velvet sleeves
like those of all house gowns, reach just
over the elbow. They end with ruffle
of gauze.
RIBBED GAUzE FOR GOWN FRONTS.
A novelty in fabrics whose taste is per-
haps a little questionable but which will
be much used this summer is thin silk
or gauze that has been pressed into cross
wise ridges, giving it the rich look OF a
heavy cord although it is in reality very
fiimsy. 1t is in great request for loose
effects-matinees tea gowns and the like
1t is very well employed in the gown lam
about to describe.
This gown is of an exquisite silk in a
broked surface of pearl tints The front
has breadth of this ribbed gauze in pale
blue gathered on across a yoke and hang
ing straight. It has insertions of gui-
pure lace sewed vertically upon it. The
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

knotted at the waist behind and spreads
out fan-like over the back breadth. The
bodice is draped with a ruffie of the
mousseline that passes round the neck
aud down each side the front, where it
turns and runs up into the under arm
seams and thence diagonally up onto the
breast. Belt and neck band are of ga
loon; and another galoon band crosses
the back half way up and catches the
mousseline on each side the front Sleeves
plated very full in the armholes and
drawn diagoDally round the arm and over
the close under sleeve, which shows like a
deep cuff. This cuff is loose.
call attention to the drawing given
here of a gros grain silk gown with
mousseline guimpe, which is a good
model. ADA BACHE CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
JET JACKETS.

a dainty jacket of cut jet designed for
house and theatre wear. is made in the
same shape as the dark blue velvet just
described, excepting that it comes up
about the neck and has a faring Marie
Stuart collar.
Another theatre jacket of cut jet is fash
Toned to wear with q girdle and collar
piece. The set can be bought at any OF
the large stores and is very effective when
worn, as l saw it the other evening, over
a pale yellow silk absolutely untrimmed.
a small jet butterfly bonnet completed
the costume. A bright woman can make
such a jacket, necklace, belt and ALL ii
she happen to have enough jet passemen-
terie left over from her last winter S
gown. Cut a thick paper pattern OF a
Jacket the desired shape, then fit and sew
the Jet onto it, cutting here and there and
carefully matching patterns until The
effect is good. Sew the pieces firmly and
neatly together everywhere, then cut
away the paper. Proceed in the same
way with belt and collar. Thus can a
woman possess theatre jacket of which
one less ingenious and thrifty would have
to spend something ikes$2O
HOW TO CUT A DINNER JACKET.
The first diagram shows how dinner
Jacket like the dark blue velvet one can
be cut from plain basque pattern.
On the centre seam of the back lay your
goods, folded. Cut as shown in the
diagram, making very little curve for the
under-ar seam. The front is SO
simple as to need no explanations. In
deed the whole jacket is simplicity itself,
as it requires only the under arm and
shoulder seams. The outline can easily
be varied to suit all tastes by cutting it
round instead OF square, and high neck
instead of low, etc.
Any woman with a knack for fashion
ing things can make herself several of
those little house boleros for the season
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

twelve inches of gathered blue satin
ribbon. The shirt waist of the same
material, was made extravagantly full,
with the newest OF large sleeves. Over
this she wore genuine Spanish bolero of
dark-bIue velvet, wrought with gold
braids and passementeries. The neck of
the Jacket followed the line of the gown
neck, which was in round "baby' fash
ion Just low enough to show to good ad-
vantage pretty, graceful throat, and
was finished with a small upright rutfie
of bengaline.
The jackets worn in the house are
sleeveless; those on the street, as rule.
have sleeves, but this is left entirely TO
the wearer. whether she wishes to be
cool or not.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
Consignment of Costly Clothes
I for the Worlds Fair.
DAZZLING AND sUMPTUOUs.
The Styles in BOlerO Jackets for Street.
and House.
no stiffening in Substituted Gauze for
Dress Fronts-Green and Rose Recep-
ton Gowns-some Good Models for
Modest Costumes, Etc, Etc.
herald Correspondence.

PARIS, May 3.-Some sumptuous gowns
are being sent to the Chicago exposition
by MORN Blossier which, as they offer in
Vulnerable hints of the recherche modes
OF the moment, cannot do better than
describe to my readers.
Such costly clothing is not for every
body, but the most modest gown should
have an ideal model; In producing q fash
on able result there is more in copying a
good outline than there is in quality.
am not permitted to give drawings of
these exposition gowns.
should call attention TO the fact that
there is no stiffening in the skirts of these
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
GREEN AND ROSE RECEPTION GOWN.

An elaborate reception gown modelled
after the quaint Hollanda Sc style has the
skirt and bodice in one, the bodice cut off
under arms like peasant waist. This is
OF green satin, the top and sides richly
embroidered with colored gems. 1t is
open, over white mousseline de sole gath
cred and literally covered with embroid-
cry Of pearls. The high necked yoke and
sleeves are of old rose velvet. A scarf of
the velvet from the top OF the left shout
der crosses the bodice front, thus carry
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
Now and Fast Service to tho world. Fair.

New and Fast Service to tho Worlds Z air.
Commencing May Z. the new time card
on the Rio Grande Western becomes ef-
fective. The time on the night train is
shortened eight hours, improving the
service in all respects on both through
trains. The schedule is arranged as fol-
lows: Morning train leaves Salt Lake at
500 a. m, arrives Denver at z: As q. m, or
a fraction over twenty-three hours. Ar
rive Chicago at 2:15 p. m. The night
train leaves at 7:20 p. m. Gnstead of 9:25
p. m. as formerly arrives Denver at $40
p. M. Omaha p. M, Kansas City p.
M, St. Louis z a. M, Chicago a. m.
Through Pullman Palace double drawing
room sleepers to Chicago. This is great
service and commends itself to the travel
ing public who seek speed, safety, and
last, but not least, comfort. While this
fast and elegant service has been put on
mainly to accommodate the large Worlds
fair travel over the Rio Grande Western
line, it mas come to stay and will be a
permanent schedule.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

The bolero proper should have no
them in, and very large ones at that, and
are also giving full revers over the
shoulders. The bolero differs from the
Elton, the Figaro and the Zouave in that
it comes entirely to the waist line both
back and front.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
pARIsIAN MOUNTAIN JACKET.

The very daring and brilliant jacket de-
signed for mountain wear was sent out by
Rausdintz from Paris two weeks ago.
The cut is of no especial name, for it
comes at least six inches below the waist.
1t is of blue notified basket cloth, the
seams in the back flaring out sharply be-
low the waist, falling into large flutes.
The straight revers are cut in with the
front pieces, then pressed back and mar
rowly edged and also faced with red and
brown figured straw silk, exactly resemb-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
Three Things to Remember.

Hoods Sarsaparilla has the most merit,
Hoods Sarsaparilla has won unequalled
success.
Hoods sarsaparilla accomplishes the
greatest cures.
Is it not the medicine for you?
Constipation is caused by loss of the
peristaltic action of the bowels. Hoods
Pills restore this action and inVigoratd
the liver. 1913
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
BoLERo JACKETS.

The Styles for Street and House-How to
Cut, Make and Trim.
New YORK, May s.-.'The Bolero' is
the name modistes give to the popular
short waist jackets of the day, and when
they pronounce it correctly the ''e' has
a long s'a'' sound, and the ''r" is given
a decided roll.
Whichever way its name is pronounced,
though, all Will wear the jacket. 1t
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

out of remnants, short lengths and even
of material which has been once used
There are a thousand fanciful trimmings
TO be had.
Most women would greatly enjoy having
one or two dainty house Jackets OF cloth.
Sucn a one of chocolate brown ladies'
cloth can be cut by the second diagram.
It is at its prettiest when worn over silk
blouse of cream or light blue. The blouse
shown in the picture fastens Russian
fashion a little to one side, and the crush
collar and belt both terminate in loose
knots with s'donkey ear" ends. The
silk has broken lines of brown. The
Jacket may be either Elton or bolero
length.
HOW TO CUT THE CHOCOLATE JACKET.
The front of this is more complicated
than that of the dinner jacket, but the
back is cut In the same way.
In cutting the front place the material
so that you will have fourteen inches
above the neck of the basque pattern.
Beginning with the armhole at side
seam then cut it according to pattern,
then cut the shoulder seam just as long as
the one for the back is cut-say two and
a half inches.
From the shoulder seam cut to form
revers as shown in line b, slightly curv-
ing so as to correspond with line of the
back to which it is to be joined. This
reyers piece is to be just half The width
of the back. The seam at the centre OF
the back of this piece is cut very Slightly
on the bias so that in the joining there is
a slight flare at the bottom of the collar.
For the edge of the collar and rever cut
IRON the upper edge of collar seam curv-
ing line parallel to the curved line b, con-
tinuing to the bottom of jacket. 1t will
look very much like quarter OF a circle,
but if the lines a and b are properly joined
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

% S. West Temple street, has the finest
furnished room in the city, with all mods
ern improvement in building. Rate
reasonable.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

sable divides the bodice into yoke, and
from the sable falls over the bust and
down to the feet a Byzantine decoration
Of priceless Venetian lace.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
the medicine for you?
TAYLOR Block,

Chicago Liquor House, "A and 46 East
First South street, telephone No. 268. :
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

and the seam in the back of collar be
neatly finished the result viii be a very
pretty combination of collar and rever,
the rever being in one piece with the
jacket and the collar joined to the back
with a seam. If it seems difficult trial
jacket" cut from cambria viii easily make
the construction clear. Many women in
using diagrams always cut ''trial gar
mentn from inexpensive cottons.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14

ling a bandanna handkerchief. The
arm holes are also piped with this silk
and it makes the finish around the
jacket.
This jacket is to be worn over a blouse
of straw colored bandanna, figured with
very small palm leaf pattern in red and
brown, and the front is crossed
with some of the broad woven
border that edges the handkerchiefs. in
which the colors OF the palm leaves are
repeated. These bands are edged with
fire black thread lace half an inch wide
sewed to ruffle slightly. The same lace
edges the band at the neck.
This effect is brilliant enough even for
the Spaniards, but yet contains all the
wonderful Partisan harmony of color.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-05-14
SERGE BoLEROs.

For outdoor wear serge boleros will be
popular. They can be worn over full silk
shirt waists with all their bravery of jabot
and fancy belts, or equally well over a
regular gentleman's vest OF heavy silk,
white peque or cashmere. With the vest
goes the white linen collar and four-in-
hand tie.
These serge jackets for morning or shop
ping are all of the same cut. The
back straight and seamless, both back
and front coming just to the waist
line. Some have plain revers cut in with
the goods and pressed back; on others