Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1893-03-10
ACELESTIAL RESTAURANT
A REPORTERS MEAL IN NEW
YoRK's CHINATOwE.
Number OF Queer Dishes Were
serVed-Eating With Chop sticks
lea Free as Wafer


tanning a small quantity OF brown
sauce resembling Worcestershire. THIS
IS the Chinese condiment and is ex-
ceedingly salt. 1t ia called see on. He
also brought each bowl of steamed
rice, surprisingly white anil dry, and so
cooked that each grain was whole and
separate. The tea came next in a small
ware pot, with bowls the size of egg
cups to drink it from. All this was pre-
liminary.
Give us some chow chop suy, John, >"
said the guide. Forty cents, seer
The Chinaman grunted and di:ap.
peared in tae kitchen.
"You must always indicate the amount
you want Of each dish by stating the
price, said the guide. al ordered forty
ceuts' worth of chow chop suy, as that
will be enough for US both. While they
are preparing it, for it takes little
time, we will eat some rice with chop
sticks. Rice is our bread. "
Eating with chop sticks is not so diff
ticult a matter as most people suppose.
There is popular idea that a Chinaman
takes stick in each baud and propels
the food into hi. mouth in some mys-
FERROUS process peculiar to himself When
the knack is once acquired, however,
chop sticks prove an efficient table
utensil. The sticks are a foot long, one.
half squared, the other rounded aud
sharpened.
They can be so gripped by their squared
ends between the thumb aud first finger
OF the right hand, and steadied and di-
rected by the fingers, as to become an
excellent pair of tongs. That is what,
in fact, they are in the hand of the diner.
Chop sticks are simply single advance
over primitive mans first table tool, tho
thumb and first finger.
the chow chop suy was brought steam
ing hot in large bowl. Ii appeared to
be stew without gravy. Tue principal
ingredients were chicken livers, Aneri-
can mushrooms, dried Chinese mush-
rooms, celery, gizzards, and sprouted
rice. The whole was favored with
spices and had evidently been treated
with oil.
No plates were served, and the stew
was eaten Chinese fashion, from the
bowl
"A very excellent dish," said the
guide, "but don't eat too heartily, for
we have several other courses coming.
This sprouted rice that you can see in
the bowl is deemed very fine by Chinese
epicures. They sprinkle rice on piece
of wet cloth until, in the course Of few
days, the grains swell and sprout. Then
they cook it. Our next dish will be per.
fumed pork, a great dainty. Meantime,
here comes our chick with the sam
shu."
Sam shu proved to be fiery brandy
made from grain. 1t was thin syrup
of milky appearance. The waiter
brought it in ware pot like a small,
slender tea pot. Cups holding little
more than thimbleful were PROVIDED.
Tee approved method of taking the
brandy is to mix it with the tea, a cup
of tie liquor in each tiny bowl OF tea.
1t doesn't do to drink too heartily of the
mixture. Indeed, the temptation to do
SO is small. Sam shu is q crude and raw
dlstillation.
Perfumed pork was the nearest ap
proach to civil!l / diet which was served.
1t was sliced into thin pieces aud brought
in bowl. The flesh was lean and ten
der and had an exceedingly delicate
flavor produced by unfamiliar spices.
Meantime the crowd in the restaurant
was continually changing. AS fast as the
diners finished they arose, wiped their
faces on their hands (there were no nap.
kins), shuffled 10 the counter, paid their
bills, and left the room. They seldom
spoke, and most of the time the room
was as silent as Quaker meeting. The
places of those who left we're filled by
new corners. The restaurant does big
business.
"Waiter," said the guide, "chow gal
men, seventy cents. Sect"
The little waiter uttered his customary
grunt and vanished.
"Chow gal men," continued the
guide, "is one Of the dainties. They
make 1t here to perfection. 1t consists
of mass of spiced mscaroni fried crisp
In melted fat, like doughnuts, and COW
cred with dressing of chicken livers,
mushrooms and stewed celery. I am
sure you will like it. The amount |
ordered is enough for half dozen, but
they will not make less, for it is a
troublesome dish to handle. This will
complete our dinner, for there is no des-
sert or coffee. Our dinner has been an
exceptional one for this restaurant, not
withstanding that it is the SWEETEST in the
city. There are comparatively few rich
Cinnamon in New York, and they all
have their own kitchens, presided over
by high. priced cooks. The diners are
many OF them we'll Off, but Chlnaman are
Away thrifty, and 1t is possible to live
very nicely here at very small outlay.
Our dinner will cost us S1.30 apiece.
Few Cinnamon will send more than fifty
or sixty cents for a meal. For that
amount of money a very excellent
dinner can be had, for rice is only five
cents bowl aud tea is nothing. One or
two nice dishes can be bought for half &
dollar. SO there you are"
"But many of these Chinsmen," said
the reporter, shave eaten nothing but
rice"
"Yes, hundreds OF Cinnamon in this
city eat nothing else than rice the year
round. You see how cheap John can
live il he wants to. He comes here and