Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-09-07

The diagram shows tLo two lines between
which 90 cut, and whatever Is cut OF,
should 30 tnkon from tho exact center
This diagram makes an allowance for short
cning three inches 70 ono inch OIL b need.
ed, let II be- taken from The middle, aud taS
proportions ~ the whole will rcmain IN.
changed.
When the waist h. Tor q very slender per.
sou, the cpntor back should be- cut down
aud enough taken on. % bring Il 20 nearly
the right width, and half ln Inch should DO
cut OH both side, oi both side back aud side
front pieces.
The darts should not be cut In 20 deep,
and the whole front H. narrowed by taking
on from one-half an inch 20 a. much ~ IL
necessary on the front aud also on the side.
and arm size.
Once the dressmakcr bias drafted a we'll
proportional diagram 10 Is better to follow
it, making what changes nru Necessary 20
adapt IL 20 different figures.
The process OF bnstiny the seams and try.
Ing on the gown and then nttiug Il by pin
ming IL ~ a - old as drussmaklng itself.
aud no matter how scientific a "rystem"
may he made 70 look by means u tia %
brass hrparatun The waist has 90 BE- fitted
Just the SAINT
When the walls, b made for very sion.
der person, o. can be made 90 take a grace.
ful form By stitching u piece OF wigan or
thilor'a buctram ncross the chest part, tax.
ing Il up Ia the darts and quilting IL untc
the lInlur This will hold tho waist out
sufficiently toll To givc il a graceful shaps
without being cumhrous or too warm.
Habits ART in-le this way very ofteu.
When the treas waist under tho dress
makers hands is 10 be Gu, short and round,
d should be cui on At toe lower line ON the
diagram and finished under q belt or with
a smooth edge, a. "a preferred.
n waist 4 10 b. u gathered French or
spencer style the front under arm piece Il
omitted ard th, front parts aru cut on AZ
the waist line aud extended out under tho
arm. following the line marked <, aud no
darts aro cut Ia the outside. though II de.
sired the liHing can bo lifted with darts and
the outside gathered down.
For French waist or blouse only three
pieces are required, tho two front. aud tho
back, which Il all one and can be cut by
laying back and side back pieces together
and following the line marked 4, which
gives the required fullness II the dress Is
for q slender person, the back part should
not be 10 wide aud can DO cut down the cen.
ter Of the aide back 20 the waist line aud
square TO center Of back. There should he
no seam Ia the center u the back. which
should be cut lengthwi,eot the cloth
To make a aurpllcc waist the goods should
be gathered onto the shoulders, ~ marked
with q. and drawn across tue bust % the
left side, leaving the neck V shaped Tho
LEFT side finishes NJ the closing line, with
Hat buttons or hooks aud eyes. The fasten-
ing Is not seen. aud the folds on tho LEFT side
ARE arranged la the same way. coming from
the shoulders The belt for the part which
laps extends over on the loft side about four
inches The surplice waist Is one Of tho
prutticst, particularly Tor summer gowns
and alender figures, but II must be drapcd
either on the person or on tin hgurine
which has much the same form ~ the per
son, as the folds must DO arranged 40 that
as soon M the belt IA fastened they will
fall naturally Into place. They cannot be-
tackled or fastened except nt shoulder aud
waist. surplce fronts have plain gathered
backs,
In gathering French waists the gathers
should not reach under the arms. but all
that space und'r the arms that would be
occupied by the side pieces should be left
plain.
In cutting or diagramming for evening
gowns the drcssmakcr must diagram first
Tor basque, which Is tho fundamental
principle Of all walsts, and then cut out tho
top as desircd-N shaped, round shoulder
ed, heart sh0pe Or squarv ncck-iirst mark
INK about where IL Is TO be cut and allow
Ug Il at least two inches higher than Il Ia