The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-05-14
The WOMAN OF FASHION.
Something New in the Line Of FGmi-
nine HoadgeaT.
The Rolls and Swells of the Zig Hat.
The Pretty Things for Shoulders.
Two Fresh Chicago Toilets-Some-
thing More About the Cape.
lCopyright. 1sg3.l

| thing More About the Cape.
Copyright, 1881
New York, May 10 Small hats are
trimmed after this fashion: A unique
capote, falling over behind the ears, GOV
cred with black net, has gold and wire
| Greek ornaments that form great wing
| across the front. Three fllets in gold run
across the back, catching down the folds
of net. At each ear pear-shaped pend
ant Of jet falls. From the bow which
ties under the chin falls another pear of
jet.
| A soft fiat of true straw color is coquet-
tishly turned and plated in front, so that
| it forms an Alsatian bow: the bow is
caught there by twist of purple velvet
! Purple aigrettes, rand flowers of a paler
shade and of yellow, stand up at the side
and back of the bow of straw
| A small one all made of fine Parma
violets, edged by a border of guipure in
white, has black velvet chou in front,
with an aigrette added and two choux at
! the back, falling over the twist of hair
that must stand out beneath. Little hats
have also many quilts and wings standing
! pertly forward, often right over the fore
| head.
Big hats are all curves and twists and
rolls Almost everything rolls away from
the face, leaving in it's stead bow,
bunch of flowers, chou or a buckle. A
very pale yellow straw has a wide
brim that is elongated in the front, to allow
| 1t full sweep in which to curve back
over two black plumes that lie on each
side The buckle of gold, set with brill
iants, holds one roll tightly. Back of the
roll are two more tips, one curving grace
fully away from the other, and further
alienated by black aigrettes that stand
between. 1t is wonderful what changes
the plume has undergone. The slightest
modification of the curve makes the
plume practically worthless You are
forced to discard it, if you will be strictly
CONNIE il faut. The Prince of Wales is
no longer the favorite. It's curve is too
sudden our latest fancy sweep out
ward more gradually, and is very full at
the tip.
A big three-comered beauty is made of
black tulle that is dotted all over with
tiny knobs of cream straw. A big velvet
rose rests where the hat stands off from
the brow and from the rose project two
knife plumes of rose velvet. Three black
plumes lift their heads behind the up
turned brim.
The early garden parties will usher in
many new fanCies III lace-fancies which
now lie, fresh and spotless, waiting to be
L
maiden has made hers all of pale blue
chiffon and white lace. The white lace
yoke madeof sheer Fedora, has pointed
effect given to it by three VS. of ribbon
that are caught down over it. From the
yoke fall two double ruffies of the pale
blue
A violet crepe flchu knotting loosely in
front, is edged with a deep flounce of
lace, which falls far down the front
looking very quaint and old-fashioned
The chiffon collarettes are very soft and
charming, gathered on high standing col
lars of the. same sheer, gauzy material
Our grandmother's fichu is now worn
in all light, cool materials-silt, net,
chiffon or lace, and il very charming in
any one.
The guipure cape is very much of a
favorite also. The latest capes are now
all single, with effective headings, and
bright silk Innings Even the lace canes
follow this rule, and have but one full
Aounce
The one color and one ruf1le capesr are
worn with the One-colored gown The
woman that robes herself in one color,
and in one shade of that color, thereby
makes forceful protest against the multi
colored figure that walks beside her The
former makes her cape of the same ma
terial as her gown, and is careful to pre-
serve the shade throughout her entire
| costume. This is very satisfactory. par
ticularly at this time, when every one is
leaving for Chicago, and where q gown
must be made that can stand wearing six
days out of every seven.
1t is so nice to know that the crinoline
| scare is all over. We sensible folks that
never took any stock in it can now afford
| to smile compassionately at our reckless
| neighbor, who is obliged to wear out her
hairclothed garment in humiliation and
sorrow. We feel so self-satistied to think
that we waited awhile, and are now so
well paid for the pause. The new silks
| are twice as pretty, made very full,
with not the slightest stiffen-
| ing in their folds. Silk is, with
out doubt, the order of the day No
other material can equal it for warm
weather. The fimsy organizes are
warm compared with the tatfeta, that re-
fuses to receive the heat of the sun.
Chinese silk is no more the taffeta APP
pears in connection with the other favor
itisms of our grandmothers, which we
have so graciOusly restored.
Chicago's first day did not see many
magnificent tOilcttes, for the rain clouds
and muddy walks forbade. Two venture
some damsels, however, careless of the
| consequences, were clad in fresh spring
| costumes, which the sun peepcd forth for
| a little while to look upon Then he
ruthlessly retired and sent terrible
downpour of raindrops to forever destroy
their brightness.
One of them was made of pale green
! crepon, finely plated from top to bottom
The skirt was banded with shell rulings
of black lace, put on in pairs, each pair
placed a considerable distance from
another The waist was plated like the
shirt, and simply banded by wide black
velvet ribbon. A fancy bit of passemen-
terie ran under the belt at the back,
pointing up the back as well as down,
over the skirt. Three plated ruffles formed
sleeves, and small black boa encircled
the throat.
The second gown was made of wood
color crepon, and of changing diagonal
silk, in shades of wood and heliotrope.
The crepon shirt was plain save for the
wide GALLON at its edge. The short Jacket
of the bodice, made of the bright silly,
did not reach to the waist line, and, there
fore, did not altogether hide the wide belt
of white faille. The jacket turned back
Of large revers, fastened with buttons.
1t turned back from double lace bib
| that fitted closely around the girls neck.
and came up right under her pretty chin
Her hat added to the piquant effect. for
it was perfectly fiat, broad-brimmed, and
had long black wings stretching each
side OF a white chiffon chou
Some of the jacket fronts are extremely
small. Many of those on the new gowns