New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-23
PARIS FASHIONS.
BLACK AND WHITE RULE. THE DAY.
WORTH SAYS MAN WOULD GO INSANE WHO
WOULD TRY TO INVENT NEW STYLES EVERY
WEEK-DOUCET STARTS THE RAGE FOR
BLACK AND wHITE-SOME GOWNS
AND HATS OF THE LATEST MODE.


BLACK AND wHITE-SOME GOWNS
AND HATS or THE LATEST MODE
Paris. June Il, 1903.
1t must be surprising to the uninItlacd TO see how
soon fashions become gcncrTzcd In Paris "crca-
ton fashion, Is hardly out OF an exclusive
house Of dc la Palx-hardly out OF the work
rooms 1t might be sald-when you see 1T copied In
the show windows Of the Louvre ana the Bon Marche'
where It can be- bought for less than oncfourh Of the
price asked by the great couturers This must be
annoying TO those who continually cudgel their brains
10 invent something new; and 1t seems that there Is
remedy, for the Louvre and Bon Marche do rot
hesitate TO employ all means and ways to get at the
new ideas as fast a. they materlalised At first
the rulers Of dress thought that OF their work
people hribcd to give points, but they soon
discovered that the picrnc Of ideas took place in the
ShOwr0cms instead Of the w0rkrOomS. and that 1t
could rot be stopped. They found that The Louvre
and the Bon Marchc engaged handsome distinguished
looking young Women dressed them II they had
100000 francs year. and were accustomed from
infancy TO having and wearing the best. gave them
Il private carriage. and had them 20 10 the great
cosiumors TO order garment, just come out These
aftcrwari served the model, OF things which, the
week after. You might buy by the dozens.
The large shops not only resort 10 this means to
obtain novelties In the beginning OF the season. but
all the year round and The poor couturiers have no
way Of avoiding the sales, for their showrooms are
open to all who wish TO purchase and give orders
To be- sure. these couturicrs make most of their croa
lions for authentic princcsses and duchcs scs: but
here also the shops get the hes; Of them In society
there women who have unqn'sioned right 70
their position, and who not rich enough TO com
pete with those who have both title and money and
these fair dame, willing to d. almost anything TO
have their bcauiy adorned. Eruilc Angler. In hi,
Licnncs Tauvrcs" has described some curious spci-
mon, OF tlc-r imDccuniOuS women OF society. BY
the large dry goods shops succeed In get
ting such women into their employ, and pay them
royalty foT revealing things in the way Of house,
dinner and reception dresses On the first nicht OF
play you Will and women In the audience
hu,iy drawing In ,,cchhoohs They are artists who
busy taking down the toilet, for fashion papers.
minor drcssmakcrs and for all the shops which sell
madc-up clothes. Their employers have paid for the
entrance tickets % and 80 and besides, pay the
artists well nj much hour.
COuturcrs cannot Away invent. They will
cudgc their brains NJ the beginning Of every season
Cor new creations, then reproduce them with more
or less notifications, and. with attentive study. II
becomes an easy matter or outsider IN distinguish
the styles OF one col'urcr from another. During
the last winter for instance Worth put profu-lon
black and iriic,ccHt large ana small slnrglcN on
almost all dinner ard evening dresses: he put them
on rullc Xix and velvet. II T. he who revived The
large puicd sleeve made Of contrasting su, from
fashion for several year. Felix Wa the first TO
revive the profii-' Of lace ornamcntation
aud 10 ordain u change from The Dresses mad" en-
tircy Of lace. Now he rcfu-c, to trim skirts near
the hip, or In TIE middle. for BE- aNay, observes
the harmony Of ensemble Of the figure. and 10 show
the grot, squcuc, al that mode he bog, You to think
of y iraped statue with three band, cutting the
lover part 81 M" figure. Donc,t Is tac oddnitor
of the comMnau-u Of black and white which Is
now 20 much worn. Worth Invented III present
pclornc few ycli- ago, the first ones. which w'ic
made ~ astrahhln. considered mos, eccentric.
You ,cc that Tie pclcI!nc is not a ne" garment u
citcn takes ,cur~ Tor an article Of toilet TO b.
generally adopted especially when II Is ~ expensive
rs astrdkhan pciern,- In Paris.
Daring "a conversation with Worth the other day
on The subject Of fashions. he said 10 ne TIA; II
wa, Impossible for couurcr TO constantly b. In
venting something new Il WIS offered 500 by
Journal for - short weekly letter on nov fashions.
Tut. a. cour>c. cout no; accept it,
Naturally you reserve your creations for Your
own rsiabli. lment.-
That, not the reason. II would h. utterly i'm
pos. nl, to create new st,lcs every wcna man who
wcun Try 1t would dc In the insane asylum"
Black and white are 50 much here just now that
II may be- wei Ia offer -"me descriptions OF tr most
fashionable black aud white dresses cap ard bonnet-
Black dominates the combination matter Of
course the contrast II the two coors Is trenchant.
lon with all 81, ciudty. When by chance. black
lace Is thrown over white The white l. made To hang
below The black In order 20 form bordcr which VIII
show the contrast All couiurlcrs. without exception.
have adopted the combination for almost all articles
Of dress: and the woman who has not something that
Is black and white. far AZ fashion T., concerned.
might as We'll be out = the world. \ black silk skirt
Is covered with black grcnadinc hounccs accordion
pcatcd These nounccs are edged with 4 narrow white
Venetian gupure which IS put on. Of course, before
the nounccs are plcat,d. The black six bodice is
slightly pointed front and back and il cuiri>,
of Venetian cuipurc Is drawn: th- l. SET with Jet
stones called cilochons Plain black "wavclcss'
MORE rcvcrs finish the bodI c. he pun of the
sleeve Is made Of MORE and the lower sleeve Of
eupure 10 match the cnirass The belt j. Of cut jet.
The gendarmr lat made of -hirrcd eupur, with no
fern under II: the wires in the shIrrs bent 10
shape the hat. The bat i trimmed with TWO ostrich
feathers. pompon. and celonel' aigret'r.
colonel agrcftc +, who's, tips and made
TO stand upright. They an. worn Just In prefer
to the dropping Ones bui not graceful.
"Wayccss7 MORE is used eXicr !vey for trimming all
articles II dres>. cvrn for summer wcaf. The sheen
Is particularly effective with III" combination Of black
and white Lace. with white lace alone.
\ Felix cape made OF MORE aud black and
white lace. To be- effective. black and white lace,
thrown over the other, must be- thin and hmy.
The white lace OF this cape IS embroidered
tulle. whose bori r only Is heavily marked. The
tullc Of the black Is Of the kind. only the
cmbrodcry elaborate In the back the
wnicrcd silk extends down 10 half III" width of the
lace and tie lace l. not gathered, but made with
the MORE close lifting. II is made adhcrent to the
bodice 10y narrow rubber band brought around to
the front and butoned under the pclsrinc. The
most beautiful OF these capcs made to III close
10 the bodice IN the hnck. The nigh collar Is Il com.
bnaiiOn Of black and white lace held up with de-
tachcd pieces Of moirc. which az g. he shape
Of a rounded leaf. Under the cape made of
hand NJ moIra edged with n l.. white
luce fall almost the bottom of tie dress. Tie
small capote of thin white lace 1, made In the shape
OF peasants cap with tiny transparent crown AMI
a narrow frill, which Is dcntcd here and there to
suit the fluffy hair OF the wcarcr The cap Is
trimmed with big cut Jet star, butterfly wings made
OF stnencd white Lace two narrow elongated green
leaves and thick black aigrette placed back OF the
other trimming.
great couturler often buys the right TO the cX-
elusive use OF certain goods which then be found