The Roanoke times. [volume] (Roanoke, Va.) 1890-1895, 1893-08-12


A moments thought, however. will bring
to light the fact that amillionare's stomach
is constructed on similar principles to IA
hodcarrier's. He may be little more liza
Bile to govt, but he is also liable to dyspep-
STA. Palates are very much alike i'm all the
human race, and though they arc often cul-
tivated they work about alike wherever
they are found. Moreover, the chemical
constituents of human beings are about the
same in every instance, and a man needs
just the same proportion of carbohydrate,
protein and fat whether he he rich or poor
The steward of the Brunswick hotel said
some time ago that he sold more apple pies
and rice buildings than of any other kind
or dessert. ct apple pies and rice puddings
are dainties within n very poor mans reach
Roosevelt's ideas, however, arc interest
ing as indicating that he has really be
slowed thought OH the subject of eating
Intelligent thought, too-whereas most men
have at least one Biblical injunction. He
says: Il have long looked for an occasion
sufficiently conspicuous to justify the Civ
ing of n purely American dinner with its
honest roasts, its true blue boils its simple
broils, its meats cooked with the flavor of
the meats, not of the tircSomc and absurd
fagot or bouquet of herbs, which disg,lsts
with its endless superfuity. Let us imagine
dinner beginning with n boiled iisl,-nota
salmon, for that is too rich foran elaborate
dinner and is worthy of making a feast by
itself, but one of the innumcrablc American
varieties, which are delicious when plainly
prepared.
Then, if you please, turkey, that nation
III bird which is To he found nowhere else
in such perfection; afterward tcrrapin and
fried oystcrs-not the cold clammy, un-
cooked ones which fashion requires us to
outrage az empty stomach with. For
game, canvasback duck or Minnesota ven
lson. II any ono must have bcgnrts in
the middle of his meal, give him straight
ont American griddlc cakes, and not fee
BE limitations, although all such inferno
lations are vandHlisms, for dinner should
be dinner and dessert dessert. Then fo;,
the latter have something satisfying To the
natural longing Tor SwcctS--no vatentIX va
ricS, direct up cakc!ctS. but II pumpkin or
mince pie or one oil the innumc,ahlc pud-
dings that are puddings-pum or iattcror
cabinet or Indian.
The additions that may he made to this
list are too numerous to mention. Then
the wines that take the prizes at the eX-
positions held in the capitals oil ali Europe
but which are neglected at home The vrt-
ages OF California, the rich, full, fruity, red
and white wines, not the wrctched thin vim
ordinaire, logwood and vinegar, continual
~ served TO us under various appclatons
and winding up with good class of digest
i've old bourbon or rye whisky"
But what OF French cookery" Mr.
Roosevelt was asked, and he replied with
emphasis that French cooks do not know
how TO cook. The lands of civilization
he went on, have succumbed to the dynas-
ty OF the French bill of fare with its ex-
ecrablc language and it's continual draft
upon that least cpicurcan of modern invcn-
lions, the tin can, for nothing can he worse.
than the tin can contents, except it he pel.-
haps the regulation fabby tastcless filct
de bpuf, which has as it's only rccommen-
dation that it is as costly as it is wretched
Everywhere one may travel he will find a
copy, more or less deteriorated, of the menu
which he left behind him. Even good old
staid Holland has fallen before the wilcs
of the charmer, and l remember that the
Holland society could get few original
Dutch dishes TO celebrate their first din
ner."
1t would be difficult to find more en-
phatic dissent from these ideas than was
presented by Mr.. Richard A. McCurdy, the
president of the Mutual Life Insurance
company, when he was asked if II man
could not live as well in New York as any
where else on earth.
Certainly not" he said, "because the
American people have eliminated the onion
universal in true French cooking. do not
speak of the sweets now. of course, but
from the merest suspicion of onions in the
soup to the composition of the salad these
fiavors prevail in French and Italian cook
cry.
Again, where in New York, unless YOU
20 to French restaurant, can you get a
salad with II delicately chopped bit of cher
vii in it, as is universal on the continent?
Why, an American salad to n person Just
home from the other side looks absolutely
naked 1t is almost indecent If you want
French cooking as nearly correct as may
be in New York, 80 to some unpretcnding
table dhote or to some basement cafe i'm
the French quarter If you get back alive
you will have dined. 1t is true that good
many of orr rich men have imported
French chefs and pay them enormous
wages, but when they get one over here the
first thing they do is to give him instruc-
tions 10 conform TO American tastes, and
what can the poor chef do? He has o obey
orders, and be has to cook to suit American
palates."
Russell Sage does not keep Fsci.ch
chef There are people who say that he