Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1893-10-28

ity. In Norway the greeting ts as quiet as
| the silences of its lsnd-locked fords; but
| every successive experience is as hghtful
and assuring as each new scene from the
| strong stone ways leading to her glowing
upland dslen. And so your heart takes
root where your feet have trod-
My frat visit to Norway was made from
Hull to Bergen, and thence on q Norwe-
gian coasting steamer In and out of the
6ords along the wondrous coast to Vsdso.
The next gave me time for interior wan
derings In the Bergen and Hardsngef dis
tricts; and the last afforded opportunity
for knowing the scenes aud people round
about Throndbjem; while some considers-
bic land journeys were me de towards the
Osterdal from the north, and in the Hal
lingdsl from the west When the coast
tour was made he'd no intention of ever
seeing Norway again, and every islet, crsg,
ford, town and landing was an object of
eager interest. / am not sure but this
method of visiting Norway has superior
advantages to the traveller whose time is
limited, as his diversity of observation is
extraordinary; while at the same time he
Is practically at ease within, or upon, his
floating inn.
In the frat place you are certain &C most
intelligent and interesting company.
Nearly all the officers of these coast steam.
cI6 bp6dk huu a kHOEe Aluu-ucdIE-
ed, loquacious and almost benevolent sst
of ses-fsring men are not to bo found.
You are constantly sgre oably surprised by
the pleasant character of your fellow-pss-
seDgers. English "outsrs" are predomi-
nant, and these are the very cream of the
English people;-hard worked editors on
q brief vacation, sensible, quiet fellows
who dozs and dream and beam al though
the slight surcesse from the chickering's of
Grub Lane were all but an earthly heaven;
bevies of splendid. psRchy English girls
fresh from some seminary and acoompa
MED by teachers not bit ashamed TO be
gay and young again; grave nsturalists
broadening their vision from the gullies of
Hsmpstesd Heath and the hollows of Ep-
ping Forest; actors and their wives who
are varying the usual run over to Paris
to lark among the dsleD aud hords,
and genuine London actors and actresses
are among the finest mihded folk You
will meet IN any journeyings; wise old and
young geologists, who, instead of form
ing the hard human strata you would
imagine, are the slmpliest, sunRiest end
most sympathetic of men; substsntial
Americans who care to see something of
the world outside of New York, London
and Paris, to whom, bless them Cor their
quick imprezsiveusssl everything Ia
onderful!-wondsrful!"
English country curatss, Highland free
kirk ministers, rubicuud faced Catholic
elerics, sil the best of friends in these
picturesque waters, and yieing With each
other In those true and good human
amenities which their walled in Christian
pulpits forbid.
Then there are resl and mAke-belisye ar
lists, the genuine ones working earnestly
at outlines which srs put modestly away
", thGfr ,,nrsEnliru fha nsha-a fa1lgnp-
all about what wonderful work tLsy will
have when they get time TO "hl
them in" amateur photographers with
wrinkled brows aud faces of frozen impor-
tance and weAriness; schoolmssiers from
America and England bound TO work of
musty epochs of history upon the polite II
not always enthralled listener; LsPp mer-
chants from Ysdso, pacing the deck as IL
choked in the TO them suliry climate of the
lower Norway coast; thoss most lonesome
and wobsgone people you can ever meet in
foreign lands, the cyclsrs In faded knick-
erbockers and dropping visors, that one
always feels like privately asking into
apartment or sIa'aroom to Eccept g change
of clothing; rural Norwegian deans, on
visits to ailiug communicates in lonely
castwise parishes; and scores more from
many lauds and climes In astonishing va
riety and nationality, station and ohsreo-
ter; but all in the grsndest good humor
ana cdeeriiy alive TO Ine mutual gains from
commonaltT and good fellowship.
1t 10 only the fringe of Norway that can
be thus threaded bit by bit, bat what q
might fringe 1t Is! Did the rec Ter ever
think for a moment what the eSiual coast
liue of Norway must BET The subject
came up on shipboard, and some people
capable of close calculation, and who think
before they venture opinions, conceded It
might be from two TO three thousand
miles. Ny curiosity led me to speak to
the captain sbou. 1t when opportunity Of
fered.
"Well, he replied cautiously, "the same
question has been repeatedly asked me
ever aimee l have been in the coast service.
The main coast line Ia upwards of twelve
hundred miles long. There are nearly q
thousand islands in the Ski rgaaTd' (outer
coast Protesting islsnds) with fully four
| thousand mileE of coast line, from Bukken
| FioTd TO the North Cape and around TO
| Warsnger Fiord, in the Arctic ocean. The
| hords eating into mainland, sOme from
eighty to one hundred miles in length,
each with smaller fords, some shorter,
some longer, reaching In every direction
from the larger hords. must have as great
a coast line as the 'Sk jsr rgssrd.' We don't
know as We are right; but We never have
1 DCcu aDlc ~ uAuEc NOIhAy hCLuhI COhhI
line at below nine thousand miles"
That is nearly one-third the distances
| around the globe In this summertime
trip along the Norway cosst-for there II
| practically no night in June and July-thS
travellers sight may fairly be ssid TO resi-
upon coast ecenery one half the length oi
this vast distance. The entire course IL
one of ever changing scenes of desolAtion
and grandeur, qusintness and beauty
Nothing could be qusinter in the Neither
lands thsn the Ted-tiled city of Bergen
which good King Olaf founded, reaching
out to commerce and the sea it's long, lOv
rows of huge rooted warehouses, it's mar
row streets, it's odd looking red homes, it
peaked roofs and gable elds, all climbing
the steep hills and forming = warm. Almos
Flemish picture against the hard old noun
taIns behind.
In a moment almost X is shut from sight
and then the interminsble maze of leland
again. Now we are at the very edge o
one whose vsrdureless top and Tagged
teeth cord be leaped up IN from shipboard
Then a little archipelago is threaded wher
folk live by fshing and farming; tbs net
and gear lining the rugged shores; tin.
etrips of grass or grsin showing here ant
there between black angles of rock; snI
low, strongly built hsbitstioRs. often Will
sod roofs, are clustered wherever place Il
Get them can be found. Here men, wo
men rad children are bSrs-footed, bare
legged, bare breasted and bare-srmed
They seem content, and a. we pass the
wave their hands and smile.
, More than once we pass through chan
. nels go marrow betxs N appraised faces O
, island walls that is is shsdowy and dsr
upon the steamers deck. MyTisds Of ses
fowl dip and plunge 81 ne, IS II TO descen
upon the ship, P7d sbriek deafeningly 70
the momentsry intrusion. Some are gulli
3 with their hoarse, strsngled gurgie; an
men and women standing eft Pgs,n.t th
sail excl IDLY throw pisces of bread for th
Z | famished fosl 10 wraugle over in mid all
2 laying wsgsTs as to the gresteet number
| of "throws" taken by the ais before Il
bread touches the water; the sport Of
awakening almost bitter Iivalries and b
J; coming dangerous to purse and persoI
: Again we sail close beneath q beetlin
shore- side cl. # whose lesdeu- oolorsd We
rises sheer into the ar for more than tW
: thousand feet, and whose edge cuts IL
: sky above apparently as level and sharp
t the ( dgs of dressed block of black ms
: BILE. SeawRrd, countless islets rimme
s with foam form purple relisfs in settin,
o of spotless white.
), Countless hords are passed. Some ha'
n wide low-lyipg mouths. Others sho
L close, black walls reaching TO the cloud
n Through the latter q sheen of light carri
y the eye to the purply, almost shsdowy hs
J, above the soundless waters bsneath, Il
n mighty enoirclipg walls and then the clont
II and the armament above. Bat throuI
y many most tsntsl!zlng glimpses are caugh
, Strange, pointed boats are plying aero
J. the silent waters of the ford. A villa
seeming to rest upon the water itself sho,