The Helena independent., 1893-12-11
ovERcoAr, cUTAwAY AND FRocK,


bodied in a coat, or y waistcoat, or pair OF
trousers, and there Is no rest for his tailor
until the scheme has been tried. In nine
cases out of ten the crank is dissatisfied
with the result after the work is done. for
the effect is usually extravagant, but he
sometimes originates good thing. In fact,
he is the author Of many good things"
To the eye of the laymen who wear them
there is little variance in mems clothes
from the styles Of a year ago. In fact, the
changes are always more gradual than
those in the fashions for women. In gen
eral way the styles Of last year and this
year differ from those of previous years
mainly in the length of all sorts of coats
and the cut Of the trousers. The latter are
now cut fuller than ever before at the knee
and narrow at the bottom. All coats are
now 20 outrageously long that the tails are
sure to look wrinkled after wearing half a
dozen times unless you lift them whenever
you sit, and you mustn't do that nowadays,
1t isn't form" and if you do somebody
will say that you haven't another coat to
wear while that one is being pressed. It is
a comfort to be able to write on the au-
thority of Mr. Mitchell that the tendency
ia likely soon to turn against such clumsy
and uncomfortable lengths.
In overcoats the Chesterfield, or fly front
oversack, is, as it has been for years, the
prime favonte. In light weights it was
made during the fall chiefly in soft gray
materials, though smooth faced goods in
blues, blacks and browns were fancied by
many. In heavy weights for winter wear
kerseys and smooth faced beavers are ia
vorites AS the season advances softer fin
ished fabrics are likely to be more used.
The form is slightly defined, though the
cut is moderately loose. and center aud side
seams, with vents" to match, are about
equally in favor. The collar is velvet
Next to the Chesterfield comes the new
ulster, sometimes called the kennel, like
wise the paddock, and also the racing coat
1t is comparatively novel except in some of
the largest cities. 1t is "very SWELL" close
fitting and long. The favorite materials
are venetians, covert coatings and light
colored, smooth faced fabrics. In length it
II about SO inches for . medium sized man.
The front is usually single, with fly, but
sometimes it is heavily double breasted,
The hip pockets are crescent shaped, with
big flaps. The breast pocket is straight,
with moderate flap to go in or out. The
collar and sometimes the cuffs are of velvet.
The box overcoat is made from 46 to 4S
inches long, hanging straight from full
shoulders, heavily double breasted and
with very deep vents. The Inverness cape
Is greater favorite than ever and is the
only coat to wear over evening dress. 1t
should fall very straight in the back, be
finished in front with fly and close to the
throat, with Prussian collar or roll, as a
Chesterfield. The material may be smooth
faced or rough and soft, but frosted beavers
are favorite, and black Or very dark colors
prevail. The covert coat doesn't seem to
be lin it, and nobody seems to be sorry
because of its absence.
The changes in evening dress are limited
mostly to increased length and more de-
cided V shaped openings for vests. Fine
twilled worsteds, grapes, dress broadcloth.
cloth finished worsteds and worsted
vicunas are favorite materials, the two last
named being specially ''swell" Peaked
lapels and shawl rolls are about equal in
favor, young men preferring the latter.
The very latest in lapels are silk faced.
The vest, unless Of white or tinted silk, is
single breasted. When single breasted four
buttons are used; when double, three. Vests
OF the same material as the coat are oftener
used than for several years past, but good
dressers" still adhere to silk The material
OF the trousers is little heavier than for
the coat, and soutache braid is often used