The record-union., 1893-03-11

@AlS&SA L L . ODs IL1NE IL
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Apulia into which shines the sun from
across the Ionian sea. and | think that
the honest thing to be said about these
people is that there is general content
among them.
1t is difficult for Americans to under
stand this, for it is inconceivable TO us
how we could be thus contented. When
you get close to the European peasant
you will find that it is equally as difficult
Tor him to conceive of any other condi-
ton than that in which he eXistss TO
illustrate: in any half hours ride by rail,
through BaVarian valleys, you are cer-
tam TO whiz past some pretty tield-lane
and see Bavarlan peasant driving cart
to which are yoked little heifer and a
coarse woman. As they stop near your
passing train you will notice that the
heifer is the only animal chatting under
its yoke, for the woman looks up and
smiles and the male removes his pipe for
a hearty laugh.
They are simple, childish folk one and
all, content in their severe labor; satisfied
with their, to us, niggardly recompense;
loving the very earth they dig with unut-
terable affection; happy in the few holi-
days the years bring about; patient under
the tithing of king and church, while
proud that the one protects and the other
shrlyes, and quite radiant, at the end, 10
lay aside the working clothes of the sod
den days behind Tor the promised tnery
of the eternal holiday beyond
Nowhere else in Europe can be seen
such variety and wealth of roadside
shrines as in Austrian Galicia. In the
two or three thousand miles OF its great
stone roads huge wooden or stone cru
cl1iX, or tiny brick or stone shrine, NAV
be found on the average at the distance
OF every half an English mile. Most of
the crucitiNes are of wood heWn out of
beech or oaken logs. Whether of wood
or stone, as if from some great burden,
every one leans, and this very leaning
lends strangely suggestive sadness and
loneliness to the landscape.
They are most frequent in districts
nearest the Carpathians which form the
hungarian boundary. The Ruthenian
peasants being OF Russian stock are all
Greek Catholics, and the Polish GallcianS
are without exception Roman Catholics.
They are equally pious, and you can
never pass crucitiX or shrine without
Witnessing a group of both in rapt de-
VonOn, many of whom are groveling
PROSTATE upon the earth before the sacred
reminders of Calvary. At Whitsuntide
one Will see crowds of these simple and
plous devotees crawling upon all tours,
While trailing huge wooden crosses from
their necks and shoulders, around every
roadside shrine in all Galicia.
After one gets over the first flush of re-
belllous resentment at the system, there
Is good deal of grim humor to be got
out OF continental railway travel. You
will tind the same little carriage as in
England, comprising from four to SIX
compartments, each holding eight people
in the first and second, and ten persons
the third -cl9SS dnnDr Do
ria there are even fourth-class cars, or
carriages, principally for use in time of
war. They are all marked: ITO contain
ten horses or thirty-siX men,"
Except in France, Italy and Spain, the
service is about equal to that in England.
one has personally to see his baggage in
the luggage-van, and not only give rink
9cid or poaW6oG to have it labeled but to
nave 1t put on board. While the mon
arch OF the train, the guard, cannot take
money for fare, he would accept bribe
from anybody for any service. and even
an officer OF the line thinks it quite the
proper thing to pay tribute to the guard
should he desire to occupy an entire
compartment.
The guard bribery is universal. 1 re-
Gently saw train of thirteen carriages
capable OF accommodating 45O people
move out of Cologne with but 81 passen-
gers, who had, in this manner, purchased
almost exclusive compartment accommo-
cations, upwards OF 100 persons having.
been left behind at the station. The most
serious opposition to the general introduce
non OF modern sleeping coaches for night
services comes from these bribers and
brlbed. a hVe-mark or a fiVe-frank
piece, or less, slipped into the hand of
night-train's guard will secure an entire
compartment, or an entire side of one.
Tor your individual use, and is far pref
or IN u ,nrfh in I,A l..
compartment sieeping-coach, which has
Iatterly crept into service, where the
guard, conductor and porter in one, in
sists, at all hours of the night, on YOUR
purchase of bad viands and worse wines.
In Germany will be found the most
grotesque otficialism, but the best coaches
and the prettiest railway stations in all
the world. The Government wholly con-
ducts all German railway lines. Every
employe, even the walters at the station
dining g-roomS, has been German SOL
der, and the entire regime is military.
Each station has captain in red cap
and gorgeous uniform. The station
guards and porters are also uniformed
with dark blue caps. When a train halts
the captain and his station guards will be
found drawn up in line in front of the
main entrance. The train guard alights
and salutes the station captain, who. with
his men, return this salute, when the
loading and unloading of luggage is be
gun.
AS far as convenience of arrangement,
cleanliness and comfort are concerned.
the German railway station is immeasura-
bly, superior to the old board novels called
depots along most American lines. They
are invariably models of neatness, tidi-
ness and comfort. They are not intre-
quently the prettiest structures to be seen
during an entire days travel. They al
ways have lovely bit of lawn about
them, in which are often fountains, flow
ers and tidy hedges. Many are covered
by ivy or ,reeping and towering vines.
Flowers j. windows and in lawn-plats
are always in view Of the tired passeu-
gers. And nearly all are supplied with
ANs@ - go