The herald., 1893-10-25
Ia BELLE FRANCE AT THE FAIR
A Fine Display of All Sorts of
Furbelows.
But the Dressmaker and Milliner Are
Not Well Represented.
Table Ware That Is Entioing In Its
Beauty = Laces That Are Bewii-
dering-A Rich Display OF
Rare Jewels.
Special correspondence to the Herald.

opeclal correspondence TO the HERAtD,
CHICAGO. October 10th.
Owing to a certain glamour that SUI
rounds everything Gallo, it seems onl
necessary to say, ''It is French" for
to Immediately become au fait. Psri
has supplanted Rome as an art center
the porcelains of Limoges excel those o
Dresden, the goldsmiths and jewelers. O
the Seine now surpass those of tn
Thames in the setting OF precious stones
the Gobelins tapestries are held abov,
the Damascus. and the silks, satins ans
velyets of Lyons out-shimmer all other
of the world.
The separate building of the republic
or the French court, as it is called, is OF
the whole rather disappointing, Will,
their section in the manufacturer
building is more than satisfying. The
buresu of installation in this depart
ment ehowed great diplomacy in the
assigning of space, each country receiv-
ing it's portion in accordance to power
sizs and prominence. So in this way
France ia honored with one of the foui
choice divisions in the center of the
building running south by east from the
| clock tower.
1t is plain to be seen that the whole
exhibit was planned with view to at
tract and interest women. To be sure
there are whole cases containing gsntle-
mems cravats, euspenders and hats, but
as all these have been adopted by the
fair ladies at one time and another, per-
hsps these are also to direct their atten-
ton to the --latest thing out"
Why is it that one must always be
comparing this great exposition with
the Paris OF 1889? The attendance, the
grounds, the buildings, the system OF
government, the displays, are always be-
ing contracted with those of the Champ
do Mars, and all come in for their share of
comment. So why, amongst the rsvish-
ing Jewels, bronzes, laces, silks, furs and
satins, must one say, but the gowns
and wraps do not begin to compare with
those shown in Parisl"? But it is 60,
none OF the firms will ever gain dis
tinction through their pattern robes as
shown here. The handsomeet costumes
were sent over by the well-known de-
partment store OF Paris; Worth, Felix
and Pasgner, evidently thinking it un-
necessary to futher advertise their rep
utations, Panget considered it worth
while to create three inferior looking
garments, while the modiste of Patti
ard Bernhart and several other almost
famous gown builders" have cases
containing graceful samples of their art,
yet there Ia either something lacking in
the combinations, or the original tones
were "washy," or they have faded hope
lessly past all gentlity. Barring half q
dozen exceptions, the average woman
will turn away heart sore, as certainly
few OF the models would be classed as
Stunning" The millinery, too, must
sadly be reckoned in the same category.
Dainty, sombre and fantastic foot
wear, not single bootiet ranging above
a narrow two, points, pirouettes and
polkas in anticipation of the unknown
Cinderellas who are to don them. The
frisky little kids who furnished material
for the gloves gave up their lives dearly,
for it must have taken many skin to
get ont pair of the two-yard lengths
that will form only part OF the toilette
of society belle for single evening.
Giants de suede OF every hue and for
every occasion; lace, be-ruffied, gaunt-
leted, be-jeweled and embroidered-al
worthy to be the glove Romeo would he
were on the hand of his fair Juliet.
The dentelles have insnsred many in
their delicate meshss-flmy as the foam
of the sea, cresting the billowy waves,
standing out in cobweb tracery against
the lustrous plushes, festooned or laid
in bands OF beauty, the laces form
complete collection of each any every
make of that noted French industry.
From the tiniest edge, through hounces,
skirts, and whole suits, sweeping bridal
wells. down to coquettish fans set in
mother of pearl and jewels; shawls,
tichus, collars and other choice bits as
welcome to the posHessor OF few as to
the owner Of safety deposit box.
The whole display is 80 classified that
one interested in tableware need not
wander about the whole section in quest
of their hobby, but find the china. glass
and silver grouped together. Every
one knows the acknowledged excellency
of po, celains from the kilns of Limoges
and Sevres and therefore comes some
what prepared for the wealth of color
and rare beauty of the ceramics. Por-
ceain painting has always been classed
amongst the arts and the vasea, Jars,
punchbowls, amphoras, placques and
odd pieces hold one captive until every
detail has been taken in. Some of the
Transparent decorated sets are in origi-
nal designs and really seem too lovely
to cover with viands, be they even ter
rapln or canvas back, and afterwards be
intrusted to the unholy mercies of the
ordinary domestic. The sterling and
plated silver candelabras, fern dishes
and silver encircled plate glass, for the
center of the festive board, are particu-
larly new and handsome, as are also
come of the lamps, tea services, chafng
dishe5, sconces and fancy articles.
There is dearth OF GENE, but one Paris
firm having case worth studying.
They show regal crowns, tiaras, diadems
and bandeaux, any monarch would be
proud of. Necklaces, collars, pendants,
sprays, sets of stars, flights OF birds and
whole branches of blossoms wrought in
briliants that cast blaze OF glory all
about, while such common things as
bracelets, pins, rings, coiffure combs
and buckles, fairly dazzle the eyes as
they lie in little heaps or carelessly cast
about scintillating from midst their vel
vety backgrounds. String oferridescent
pearls to clasp fair throats, pigeon blood |
rubies rejecting their own ernbescent
glow, eapphres as blue as the unfath-
omed depths of the sea, emer-
aids flashing in their splended |
pale turquoise azured as the |
skies, canary diamonds of the faint |
straw tint so much admired by the few
and many-hued "freak" pearls, valued
or their unmatchable qualities. It is