San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1893-04-14
London Modes.
London Telegraph.

w edI, anu lOI uOuulHS Will SuIlS,
and shirts or blOuses, is a sailor
shape, in black or dark colOred
straw, with deep band of vivid
hued velvet round the crown. Many
of these have the very unsailOrly
decoration of a bunch of spring
flowers 2t one side, or over and I'M
der the brim.
Satin remains the faVOrite ma
terial, brOcade is almost all in large
design and brilliant cOlOring, and
most of the velvet worn is either
of that beautiful kind, with lights
playing over the blOOm-like sur
face, like cloud shadows on noun
tain lake, known as miroir; or of
the shaded pile which is called
omber tint, which does not convey
any idea done into the English
word shadow.
AS we predicted,some time back,
real lace is in full favor again, not
withstanding the beauty of the
limitations used last season. The
principal parties of this week
were those given by the Duchess
of Leeds and Lady WimbOrne. At
both these entertainments it was
at once apparent that the
wide full skirt was an ac-
complished fact, that sleeves We're
no longer grotesquely large, that
short skirts look very smart, and
that a judicious mixture of colOred
gems with diamonds is quite the
newest idea in jewelry.
Velvet sleeves will soon be out
of season, but velvet seems certain
to be used as trimming very eX-
tensively for some months. Sleeves
of satin, of chiffon and lace, of
loose straps of ribbon with lace in
SertiOn over it and with putfs of
chiffon underneath, and of the
material of which the gowns them
selves are made, will be worn, and
they will be of much more modest
dimensions than has been the case,
though still pulled, and in light
ethereal materials will require
most careful treatment. Black
continues to be most popular COM
bined with touches of bright, vivid
color. Almost every English
woman includes in her wardrobe
more than one nearly all black
costume.
The new materials for the spring
are a delightful study in them
selves. Their hue is chameleon
| like. SO soon as it is decided that
they are of one color, the deft sales
man gives them a twist, catches
new light on them, aud quite an
other hue is produced. The weaving
of these new fabric is a mystery,
but the subtle effects which result
are very charming. What seems
to be the leading idea is to choose
a dress of vague and undecided
character, with suggestions of blue,
hints of green, ripples of purple,
and sutfusiOns Of pink chasing
each other across the vision of the
onIooker as the light touches more
prominently one or other of the
subtly interviewer hues, and then
to give tn" keynote, as 1T were, TO
this series of color phrases by haV-
ing a trimming of one or other OF
the shades. In the case of dove
gray crcpon with green, pink, pur-
pie, and pale blue lights in it.,
sleeves and a collar, possibly also
belt and bands round the skirt of
green mirOir-VelVet are used, thus
resolving the varied lightly-treated
hues in a harmonious and satisfy
ing dominant chord.
The question of the newest style
for Embarrassing is one of much
importance just now. The chignOn
and the bun are doomed. They
have already disappeared from the
heads of the smartest women. The
latest development is a revival Of
early Victorian fashions in this
respect. The new ways of doing
the hair are distinctly pretty and
graceful, nor is there any indica-
ton of banishing the short, waved
hair in front, which, when careful
| Nv treated, is universally admitted
! to be most becoming to the gener-
alitv of feminine faces. The diVi-
sion will be less decided, and not
necessarily down the center of the
head; in fact, it is more novel to
suggest it slightly to the left side
but in no way to define its position.
This is a matter in hair arrange
ment which can only be properly
decided by a study of the effect on
individual faces. At the back the
hair is deity arranged in grace
full loose Victoria knot, which is
done by drawing it through and
through a large oval tortoise shell