The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1893-12-24
THE OPERA IN MUNICH.
n RIoHMONDEE NOW THERE TELLS
OF HIS INFERENCE.
Life in tho Old German City-How They
Make Their Excellent Beer-An Eat
ing House-with the Artists.

there Is no town In Germany more inter.
esting, and not one which offers more to the
student Of music, painting, or literature.
The University is famous. and there are
more students here than in any other
German city excepting Berlin.
The city lies on both banks of the beau
tlful Isar, LOO feet above sea level. An i'm
mense plain stretches away to the north.
On clear days the Bavarian Alps are clear
ly visible to the southwest.
When we first came to Munich early In
September the country was green, the
trees covered with leaves and IT seemed
more like Spring than the beginning Of
Autumn. Two weeks ago there was a
heavy fall of snow, and though 1t is often
quite warm during the day, IL grows cold
at sunset and every night 1t freezes.
The atmosphere is, however. so dry that
one does not appreciate the lowness OF
the temperature.
We came to Munich for the Wagner
Festival. The Festival was a great sue
cess, both artistic and financial. Herr Levi,
the old friend and admirer OF Wagner.
and now leader at the Royal Opera, made
the general arrangement and engaged
graf artists from all parts Of Germany
and Austria. His efforts were ably
seconded by Possart. the new manager.
The first opera we heard was Das Rhein
! gold. When we took our places in the or
| chestra stalls the great clock over the
| stage marked two minutes TO seven. The
houee was crowded from top to bottom.
American, English, French, but compari-
| lively few Germans. The Court was still
| in the country; fashionable Munich peo-
| pie had not returned from their chateaux,
and the middle classes did not patronize
these special performances because Of
| the increased cost of admission. When
| compared to- New York prices for opera
| the pieces seem cheap enough, but
| twelve marks Zone mark-twenty-five
cents for orchestra stalls and twenty
| marks for balcony chairs is very dear
| for Germany. There was barely time
10 glance about the house and get gener-
al impression Of dinginess, when a little
bell rang. Every one instantly stopped
talking, Levi raised his baton, and the
eXquisitely beautiful prelude TO Das
Rheingold commenced.
Wagner's music cannot be described
nor can one form any true idea Of the
great composers meaning until one has
heard and studied his operas in Germany.
1 have heard Siegfried, Lohengrin. The
Flying Dutchman etc, I'm New York and
Paris, but these operas as produced out
Of Germany give one but faint notion
Of their exquisite beauty and ever increds-
ing charm.
1t is said that Wagners operas are
better given in Munich than anywhere else,
excepting Beyreuth, where the theatre was
designed by Wagner and specially ar
ranged for his works.
/ am sure / have never seen more won
derful scenic effects. In Das Rheingold
the first scene at the bottom Of the
Rhine was wonderful.
The representation Of. moving; water |
was so perfect that the illusion was com
plete, and we saw beautiful mermaids |
floating with exquisite grace through |
the glstening waters ard singing with |
wondrous voices the magic music.
Das Rheingold is the prelude 10 the !
Ring Of the Nibelung and is given without |
intermission, two and a half hours of |
beautiful music with accompanying scenes |
on the stage. First the depths Of the |
Rhine, then the valley below Walhala, /
next the bowels Of the earth where Wotan |
swindles Alberich out of his treasure, !
again the valley where the god Bonner
summons the elements in a grand song
and the stage grows black I'm the fierce
storm, which suddenly ends in a blind
ing flash Of Tightening and terrific crash
Of thunder. The clouds roll away; a
great rainbow spans the valley.
The gods solemnly ascend the rainbow
and disappear in the Palace of Walhalla,
While the orchestra finishes the last bars
Of the majestic Walhalla motive.
The operas commence al seven and are
usually over at ten. On fine nights nearly |
every one walks to and from the theatre.
Full dress is not 'derigueur" but hats
and bonnets are not allowed I'm the house.
Between the acts the refreshment room
Is crowded; beer, sandwiches, ices, etc,
are consumed I'm liberal quantities Some
thing to eat becomes almost a necessity at
these entertainments, because supper is not
taken until after the opera. Nearly every
one dimes here in the middle Of the day.
Many people follow the opera with the
complete score. There is no talking or
Whispering. Coming in or out during the
acts is not allowed, and the length OF
each entire act with the hour of ending
is printed on the programme
We came to Munich for the music, but
many things have combined to charm us
into remaining. The town is full OF
artists. Many of them are celebrated
like Lenbach, who has painted every
body In Germany who is anybody: many
who are fair artists, and many more who |
do nothing in particular but whose studies !
are none the less fascinating places IN |
which to spend an hour filed as they are
with pictures. fine oriental rugs, old
armor, musical instruments ancient furni-
ture, and with that indescribable air
artists dwell.
l called on a friend of mine this morn
Ing, one OF the Celebrities, for he has "A
large picture in the Metropolitan Museum
Of Art, New York, and may others In |
fine galleries both at home and abroad.
found him busy working at a picture,
group Of girls making tapestry. we |
walked into town, and had luncheon in a
famous eating house run by the city and
which Is patronized by students who are
hard up" and workmen Of the poorest
class. The entrance 10 the place is down
4 short flight Of steps and through "A long
narrow hall dimy lighted by a simple
amp.
At the end Of the hall door opens into
/ small room, which we found crowded
With tough-looking men, and the air foul
with stale tobacco smoke. with DIM
'ulty we found an empty fable near the
window. The wall and floor were wet.
rhe wood tables were greasy. and as
sat down 1 thought IL would be impos-
ible to eat but my friend assured me /
hat the boiled beef, for which the place is
amous, was always of good quality. and |
hat in spite of appearance / need have !
10 fear on the score of its preparation | '
slatternly girl brought me a bowl Of {
CUP with an egg in it. II was hot but | !
lad little or no taste
/ looked out of the window and found |
could almost put my hand into rushing | {
mill race. A six-story house opposite | s
hut out all light and air The girl re- | 7
urned in moment with a slice Of black
read, a bowl Of potatoes ana a cup OF
oiled beef on wooden platter. De