Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-08-29
HOME DRESSMAKING.
-FOUR DISTINCT SKIRTS AND HOW TO
CUT THEM

The Umbrella, the Empire. the 1880 and
the clrruiar-Sot Dimcuii Task 60 Cut
Them - Notcs About the Trimming.
Pocket. and Openings.
tcopyrisht, ia0, BY Atnenss- Press A'aoc'a-
toni
There arc now four distinct skirts, known
rc.pcctively rs umbrella. empire. 1850 and
the circular The circular is acomplctccir,
Gle, with the center cut out Tor the waist,
the rest falling In loose fold8gll aroundond
with no seam except that in the hack vcry
like those Of last scpson, but fuller 70 re-.
quires double width material 20 cut these
The top is fullcd In 20 the belt 70 cause Ito
&c over the hips.
The umbrella style requires nine broadths
and u narrow at the opunlcztrcmcly Gar
ing. and generally some Kind Of trimming
outlines each scam.
The empire Is composed 81 eight hruuiths
and the 1880 8, made worry iull and ilnrng
sometimes plain from top 60 bottom, but
more often with % nouncc srt on, which 70
cut Ia partial circle 30 18 10 give the mp
pcnrancr Ola second skirt. when, ~ is gcncr.
nily the caso. 70 D. headed by 70 narrow ruilc,
or the joining s. covered by some special
trimming
In most cases these are cut In the form Of
half circle, but Zoe others they are cut in
sections, with the wide end downward and
the top of each followed out "a LITTLE and
the bottom rounded 60 give ito flare
The empire skirt Sc cut much like any
other, but thUre are cipht huadths us
against the 1--WE. The top Of tho front
breadth measures from 60 3 inches across
the top and fares to ~ nt the bottom. Il
4 cut lcngthwlsc on tho fold. The ncatsiy
bruadths are Q inches 1cro.g the Top aud TO-
hpcctivrly 10, gD aud .l nt the bottom. The
bacl, breadth g. 90 inches all along and cat
to short train in the back Thctop of the
back breadth is entirely taken mp iu plgits
making this skirt ,H inches around the
whist Ia ease che wcarcr is morn slender
the breadth. can bo slopcd be at the top or
gathered slightly to bring u 20 the re-
quIrcd size
The pattern Of n skirt Is sooosily drafted,
given the inunsuWmcf of longthnnd waist.
band. that few instru duns nru needed 9TH.
o. than 90 sny that they shonld De cut on
tho straight and right side up where there
isaunp or pattern Where the goods a.
alike. like plain silk cashmere, etc, u
gurrs can be- piucol. Us Il shown on the dla.
gram. by taking what comes from tho top
aud nddng Do on the bottom. but this isn0t
advisable II thorr plenty of goods Some.
times two brcadths can be- got from one
width Of cloth by adding these triangular
pieces. Sometimes by laying uuc breadth
Chat me. a douhlvl up and the other down
when cutting two can ho cut without
pIccing, but this will do only in cashmere,
plain Six, Cuttous and chcyrOu. Ch1yi0ts
aud plain uAplcss goods OF extra width.
Velvet aud vclutiua should never be cut
up and down, ~ there II always differ.
sncc Ia the shading
The stiiI skirt lining now used may be ~
crinolinc, horsrhnir or wlgan. n " horse
hair, the edges must be- firmly bound with
strong material, no that the hair, will not
stick through and irritato the wcnrcr, the
facing to be- cut just the shape OF tho bot
tom aud can be o. deep as desired, 10 Il
better 70 have Il made separate and eat
stitch II Co the lining, leaving the lower
edge 10 COME even with the bottom Of tho
skirt, Il should be- 10 turn faced with nj
para or black silk stitched on with a ma
chine. n thryo or four row, ~ the stitch
ing are scwcd around, they make the Skin
stand ont better When these are Err
hnstod twicr around the bottom and thci
cat stitched on. the edge should be carr
fully trimmed and then bound with bn
volutinn, which comes Ia pieces for tina
purpose. n needs mutc than one bunch
a. the skirts are 40 large around. This q
20 be hnsttl with the velvet part 90 ia
skirt and turned upward on tho outsid
and bsstcd with strong thread, which i
20 remain in Then t should be stitohe,
aud finally turned and fclled do trongl!
70 the under side.