The sun., 1893-08-13

who throng to them. A little muddy .rivel
sweeps through this town, on The two sides q
pooket o iit edition Of switzeriSnd minus the snow
e sSe at the 's foot Of the steep
pices whereon the town stands.
These hills rise almost pernendteuarly from
mounted by towers and summer houses aud
are covered with winding paths. which troops
Srea S osds Of re- Se synd yoHn 6g
the infrm. From the crests Of the hills the
Views are charming-of mingled wood, and
field OF crag and vineyard. everywhere lying
on gentle decllyitics or steeI slopes. It Is an
"a Alter tho dcnkeys, the rowboats. and tho
prom enades. or rather before them. the great
centre OF attraction is the building known as
II is the common rendezvous OF all comcrs.
1t embraces large and elegant sluare hall.
Tn sSd sSd for d
nromenades in full dress, being always bril-
can bs furnished with a chop; drink; or az -
i in Fon or reSnT M sd With
German. French, and English papers and
periodicals., and last, though not least large
saloon furnished with two gambling tables.
The gambling arrangements are the great
novelty of these places to an American. The
crowd. male and female: ladies' in diamonds
and skinny old women in faded shawls and
ancient bonnets: men OF rank and wealth. IIt.
shirted. huge-tramsd commoners. anxiously
riskinG q gulden. Men with smooth; trannuil
tod hrows and quivering hands. some cool
and others wiping away the pr9tuse pcrsPirn-
tion from their bIows; passing hour after hour
but It to sef%s the eSspes offensive features
ssg 6s s5t6 the day Sfsn bs
fore arrived.- I hnyS nsser, seen over 500
or 5000 steked on throw. The first evening
seven sever WEI We're losers. Yet tho chances in favor
adopted @ a ealcuIation and tried few throws.
and won almost every time;
At one of the tables roulette. or ball cast
on a laterally revolving cylinder. is played.
and at the other the chances are decided hy
running on dozen cards from regularly
This salon is richly furnished with damask
and brocatclle curtains, with magnificent plate
glass in the windows. and someiimes. after
oilers striking contrast to the wlzened
wretches, who haye been bedeyiled by play,
efficacy in disorders OF the respiratory organs.
(Baron van Hall Of Hollandl. man OF seventy
here for difficulties of the lungs. The old man
is wheezy and the young one asthmattc. The
predomin nant quality of these Ems waters is
carbonate of soda.
The tS%HeTatu5Tss q, Of r. the tTo springs are
respectIvoly re i i5s' and l53'. '"s' -
hotel M onf ON tho bank Of the river SeIoncins to
the Duke OF Nassau. and we'll situated.
From my parlor l have q near view OF the
over tho shady walks. in front and across tho
umbrella bridge which spans the stream.
o st
reading. or flirting at little tables under the
or Of ToT tSs Of Tsrs se
crowd. and each one has nothing to do aud
does II violently.
see 80 very much elegant 1T m bat San is
even bad practices astopishingly, quick.
There is an extraordinary abundance OF
fruit trees. pear, plum. apricot ne.tarine 10.
in the Rhine Valley. Everywhere tho orchards
are humorous and the trees universally thrifty
a9H CoEosSs IosSGa july 1T H. is65rhe seat o, power
once here. is no longer here. and tho glory OF
when Paris was small: now Paris is large and
Cologne Is small.
sinss the d3ys when en- the h,d dfi!ihusterips 'old
mated over the valley Of the Rhine. giving the
law to the vast interior drained by it and it's
changed. Kingdoms have burst their shell
haS have t been io4nded: and small towns have have
While Cologne was yet powerful st; Peters,
burg was unheard nh o. and ND Berlin @ Gn1 and Vienna
thing remains. There are ancient warehouses
on the quay: tho extensive walls sweep round
the city more perfect than eyer; the vast ca
in all it's proportions high above every other
object in the city. and needing neither tower
These sre S sttns of Cologne
in the Hotel hd EGya gsno on the auay at in the
even looking clear, poured its rapid tide along
under it's beams l have nowhere seen the
here at Cologne 1t seems smaller and more
turhid both below and above.
The town has become the centre OF a great
and growing system of railroads. leading to
al parts Of Europe and is likewise a great
stea boat station. 1t has revived and thrives
is destroying the old cathedral and making a
Of tho old building is going rapidly
gigantic proportions only to be struck by its
1t WAS well in its ruins as
roman ~sthoc M m n tho
Period. but it will be out of place as a new
modern temple of superstition in Protestant
modern empire OF German thought.
Cologne is not only fortified town. but Q
twenty Ave or thirty feet high with loop holes
both above and below.
The upper ones are reached from the top Of
Is raised against the outside one. and stands
on arches. Three gateways and two draw
bridges, all eniladed by muske etry and cannons.
have to be passed before coming to the main
wall. The defences are thus m ost formidable
and are aided by the low banks and great
width OF the river in front. and by the fact OF
the surrounding country being level plain.
A near inspection leads me TO think well Of
the future Of northern and central Europe.
The climate Is 80 snlubrious the soil so gen
orally good. its productions so various and
abundant. and its cultivation so thorough TINT
thers seems no reason for any decline in tho
population or prosperity OF this great country.
such as has overtaken tho east and part OF the
south OF Europe.
On the contrary. 1t seams that all tho sources
1t prosperity may be enlarged by the progress
)f time. and that the population may grow in
numbers, in intelligence in comforts. and in
wealth. 1t first needa some political reforms
which will givetot tho people the control OF thcir
own concerns. As these come tho people will
gradually rise IN their mental and moral char.
.cteristics and the rubbish OF Legitimacy and
Driestcraft being cleared away. mankind may.
o all human appearance, go on here for hun
1reds OF centuries all the while improving.
Legitimacy balks the way little at present.
out in the great march Of events 1t Is but II
temporary hindrancc. which will crumble into
'uins under the progress OF society
As one comes face to face with this leCiti-
macy OF the Old World. tho impression Of its
al 81 rnrfa harn orc aI