New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-12
ccENES IN GUATEMALA.
.,rvn1yG FROM THE SUMMIT OF SANTA
p00 CRUZ RANGE.


Gua'e"" 49,. n,nes near the summit OF the Santa |
te Ma". and such refreshment as our sadly de- ]
ruf n" nor Afforded was a needed preparation Tor |
ss'eu -n,se which completed the days Journey 70
. few moments ride brought us TO the ex- |
ts"' Of the ridge, and the magnncent pan |
RENE :, the valley in which the Pueblo OF saiama Is
n". onened before our astonished sieht ike an
i'uAN vision OF Paradise. The valley appeared
ine1pe ,avl Main about two miles In diameter, In
o~ ,ofv mountains and traversed by river
lsed " 49,, rowed between verdant banks studded
shose - stately mang oes. We were more than
o"' .,,yo the valley. and looking down the
+"" nsrn.ndicular side Of the mountain the enect
tno', -r,nc beyond description. The bed OF The
vss 'osred 10 be covered with carpet OF pc
vale! a,,ern and strangely brilliant colors spots
tui" green suggested masses OF trees and clumps
drA', shruhs while the sides of the inclosing
we're clothed In masses OF tropical vegeta-
tep ro was so attractive that We fingered tC
" hrcetful Of the dark clouds which were
tpH' formidable bank above the serrated peaks
FIe ns SOUTH and OF the fact that the sun was
81 w. tho barren mountain upon which we Were
dsea.s nh q food OF heat. Our animals failed %
aS- ~ fho scene and by their resttveness admm-
W' "a lose no time In making the descent He
sac vider than usual-half as wide as an oidi-
uA ~,s hut desperately steep. The curves were
DAT ,A sharp and the zigZag course must have
Sm ho distance. The downpOur OF heat was IN
NV" sx hv that radiated from the mOuntan-sde.
.r,ration rolled from our faces and each stanl
' anon our animals was conduit from wnicI the
.,udd moisture drppeu'
=, fret we rode. but as the way became so steep
~ ~. animals found difficulty in retaining their
..,,oM We dismounted and drove them before US
r.. x.rr apparently descending into furnace. FROM
49, elevation we thought the mountains covered
hiSan cd
'.,,.d them and became stunted shrubs. lie air
W.,n,.,.d and waved and glowed as II heated by
80 .rormons furnace The eyebals burned ana
- ,Acss danced before our sight We filled our
~. Nth leaves Of kind Of sage. but the brain gre"
~,,, and an intense desire to sleep came over US
r. cached the bed Of the valley, and agan mounting
A., animals endeavored to urge them INTO 'ro'.
NV eould only walk. The floor OF the Naie! h"u
I A..,M What appeared like a beautiful carpet OF
a,h yerdure was but sand and gravel ao"eo WIN
..rrs Of low rowing cactus. each leaf covered WIN
o., now.rs protected by a mass of needlelke
a.,n. The club cactus grew to giant proportions
s =, alan Was burdened with blossoms and fruit
4, occasional bunch Of pampas grass gave variety pu'
,N.,eyer there Of vegetable lie iouhd us s"'
,.o.nee in the heated air and baked soil.
Tho liver was. as 1t appeared from the mountait
,.rdered by luxurant mango trees loadeo WIN sre'
"a roden fruit. II flowed with an easy grace'
rAou over long reaches Of pebbles and sand' 81.
,.med TO invite us to battle In its clear waters. =
,dmiye bridge spanned the river, ana on thi' We
.,o...d Many women, nearly or quite naked were
.,h,nv clothes near the shore bathing farter ou'
,hs stream There were no men In sight ihu 'he
,onsn showed no signs OF timidity at our aProa'h'
hut rather curiosity-a desire to have US '"iV "
Nem IN order TO who and what we WEE
ns the bridge we at once entered a sueet VIM.
a,rec,lv 10 the Plaza, but every cabala h'i d" 'p
rsnnce Of desertion and not human pei'e ""' "
ssht. Our animals tramped noisily DER 'he s'oie
-. ,r. NOT unti, We entered thu Plza did We
s.. sscns NJ life There we found ew lhuios JuS'
hsnn,nr 10 congregate and dispayir 'heir n''.eu
uscks We INQUIRED for the pcsads aho io"o"i'e
n. direction indicated, rode under a eaN9 SUM d''
INN q pa,io which was the receptio'f'o'" io' ""'
IN In the centre of the patio II spi"Sn'ls "" 20,
rom q fountain Of Indian confuo"oh "" WIN
isssnt, siblant sensation upon er ''eu "''''' anu
weheated brains. ..a g., nm nm
A number of Iadno womensquatteo In an uh
.A,u rrorn near the fountain smoking. expectorat-
~ "a .adnc 10 the feeling disgust which an ac-
.-,..,on AZ e,,h produced. In hammock In 'he
shade OF the vide porch gre'y' hai-uresseu H"
watched us with apparer concern "a !" o"' -,
,entons The absolute indjerencc OF THESE Peop'c
10 strangers Is amazing. Scohg as ,heir own ammo"
wants are supplied they car 1or no.hhs ei9e ".'r
rr+l .nrA emphatc SpaISh had been useo by 'he
-. az - hmuockoving Ladino landlord be
~, Musst n rr.nare God for ourselves ana our
go, orr roor wasmurh better than the guest
,h.mho, q, Tactic bu,with abundant litter on the
Noors N shelter the imense broods OF meas ""i'A
beesn an immediate aack upon deIehceiess legs ns
soon as arrangementshad been mace lot 'he NE II.
and for fresh mozos the morning We sroheu out
TO the Plaza, now filed with an acnVe 'hrohs Vi
buyers and sellers. ,r
nd attracted
t.D,,on and exci our surprise at the beauty OF 'hc
s.acrv and ,,.excellence OF the work. The Ca
,h.S-sl &c lar, and imposing structure at least 2oo
war. old hut excellent condition. and In mat re-
spt omit. dirent from the churches heretofore SEEN
fAere were MY paintings, some very hne ana o'her'
Noticeable fother singuarty OF design. The aitar
ornam.ntatio was very elaborate ana rich, ana 'he
dresses OF II saints did not show the exuperahce Vi
uns., sean pom the saints at Coban. We visited
nnmh.r NJ ores and found them mostly In the hands
d Germah All complained OF dull times Inc 10
e.non q, e town Is peculiar and should make II an
,nn,,,.,. business centre. But the intense heat
drives an the Indians TO the mountains, and except
n IN. pza during the hours OF market the entre
place n an appearance Of deseron and decay.
ehu,chf peculiar construction occupies command
M nodon UPON the side Of the mountain two miles
o. mc from the town. long flight OF stone steps
I'D n TO its ornamented front. but we had no time
10 vt 1t and could not learn It's history
Eremained at Salama one night and at 3 O'Clock
N. following morning were ready to start for
Tnche Grande. One Of our mozos however, was
njng, and after hours search could not De
iusd. As there was other Indio to be had the
CAmsndante suggested TO the Alcalde that he take
place Of the missing man, as we could not DE de-
r@ There was other way, and so the mayor
,saama strapped upon his honorable back one-'hird
our luggage and tramped of with the others, egh.
easues, for the immense reward OF II" reals ID
tents. Possibly this is not the first time a mayor
has been obliged to carry heavy load for small
Enumeration, but the experience is not common.
The night at Trapiche Grande was the climax OF
discomfort The place is pueblo Of not more than
dozen catanas hanging upon the steep soes Oh u''
ui- with no posada. lodging house or place lor .he
accommodation OF travellers OF any kind. IN.
"oanas were mostly Of upright poles, covered WIZ
matching OF Column palm leaves, through wMch .n'
cd md fntn Uh