The morning call., 1893-01-14
SCENERY AND COLDS.
A Feature of the Glaciers at Grindel-
waId That the Guidebooks Omit.


Europe is full of all sorts of devices for
endangering and undermining the health of
travellers. The big buildings. churches.
palaces aud the like, where the huge inclo-
sure keeps the temperature Of the air at
the same cool level all the year round, have
caused sickness aud deaths without num-
Der. For travellers coming into them from
the heat Of the summer day without do not
think that this agreeable GOODNESS means a
sudden and unhealthful reduction of the
temperature of the body until a chill or
succession Of sneezes tells them that the
mischief is done.
But there is one place which is respon-
sible for more sickness than any score Of
large buildings. The glaciers at Grndel-
wald, especially the large upper glacier, is
this dangerous spot. Nearly every one who
goes to Switzerland, and that means nearly
every one who travels in Europe. goes to see
the glaciers at Grindelwald. although few,
indeed, do not regret having gone, because
the difficulties and dangers are but slightly
repaid by the rather disappointing scenic
effects. And nearly all who go carry away
with them cold which may pass away,
and again may make them linger in bed at
Interlaken to curse the day they yentured
60 GrindelwalG
The glacier is an hours walk or horse
road. narrowly shut in because OF the en-
croachiDg mountain farms on either side.
If you have gone horseback they set you
down az mountain Inn with a little
pavilion overlooking the valley Of the
glacier, with its vistas of perfect Swiss
scenery Then one goes through a gate
and walks down winding road, arched
with trees. crosses stony valley, through
the midst OF which rushes clear, pure,
ice-cOld stream, fresh from the base of the
glacier which the summer sun is melting.
The glacier is before you, chilling the air
which was OF summer heat few yards
away.
You must have walked down. to 1t be-
cause there is no other way, and you are
therefore heated. You stand near the
glacier and instantly you are cool. Perhaps
YOU 60 into the ice cavern, for the wonder
full colors Of the hewn ice are tempting.
Ice water is dripping upon you and your
feet are soon soaked from the wet boards
underneath. You go out and start away,
AID before you have again reached the lit
tie gate near the inn you find that you have
the worst cold you ever had in your life.
Ii you are over susceptible you Will have
chills and fever.
But it is not necessary to 20 down to the
glacier. You may have heard of these perils.
SO you decida 10 view il from afar. You sit
in the little pavilion with the superb piano.
rama before. above and beneath you, with
glacier and the stream gushing from its icy
jaws as the central point OF your landscape.
You order something to eat and q bottle of
wine. and life seems to be an eXtrao rdinarily
good thing. For all around you is sum-
mer. hot, intense, luxuriant. while above
you and down in the valley there is win
ter, eternal winter of snow and ice. But
as you sit enjoying. reveing even,
blissfully unconscious OF danger. you begin
to feel an icy chill. gentle and pleasing at
first. but gradually increasing until you look
about for furs, and then take to flight with
a bad cold pushing surfaceward within you,
as a memento of the glaciers. Off that huge
river of ice blows a wind that is always
wintry. that is felt in its full intensity mile
away through the heat of the hottest sum-
mer day. You may escape the wiles Of a
score of curio vendors urging you TO take
away carving or something of that kind
as a memento Of Grindelwald's glaciers, but
the chances are that you will not escape
that unpleasant or perhaps dangerous little
memento in the shape of cold, which the
glacier will force upon you.