The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-06-20
QUAINT OLD HAVANA.
Men, Manners and Dolce Far Niente
at Cuba's Capital.

The Soldiers, the Marines and Their Uni.
forms-A Scene on the Quay-Stores
Stands and Frices-The Dissipation and
the Sports-Curious Customs.
Especial Correspondence
! HAVANA, June 10.-The American who
sets foot for the first time on the dock
at Havana sapt to exclaim, .sWhere am
atr The people around are strange,
the buildings strange, and even the dogs
bark In a strange language. What is
not Spanish is Italian, and everything
smacks OF hewarm sun of the old world.
The most noticeable objects that pre-
sent themselves in all localities are uni
formed men. A marine stands sentry at
the entrance to the government dock.
He is very neat in his suit of grayish
blue, with a dark blue, broad stripe
down the trouseT leg. He has white
cap, with visor and rounded top. He is
armed with rife and pistol. Just beyond
him and in striking contrast are two
soldiers. The soldiery acts as police
force The uniform is of the same light
blue, but scarlet band is along the
trousers seam, and the blouse is orna-
mented with scarlet
| The cap is trimmed in red, with the
blue background, and is higher than
that OF the marines. A broad brimmed
straw hat, Topped up at one side with a
cockade. is also worn. A broad belt
supports great pistol holster in front
and little box containing cigarettes
and other necessary articles. Acartridge
boz is placed behind. A sword com
pietes the equipment, with sometimes a
rifle. These soldier police stand in pairs
on every corner. Intermingled with
these uniforms are many others-officers
In army and navy, cavalry, artillery.
Government officials are distinguished
by suits Of the prevailing cool blue and
the straw hats.
The uniforms used in Cuba appear
very sensible. They look cheap beside
those Of the United States army or navy.
The cloth resembles cambria and is light
and porous. Although the soldiery are
not straight and fiat backed, as are the
Americans, their uniforms fit well, are
clean, and their shoes are nicely BACKED.
The men stationed in Havana are said to
be volunteers and loyal to the govern
ment.
! The gate that leads from the wharf to
the street is a wonderful place. All sorts
and conditions of men pass through it
half naked sailors and foreigners in
loose, bright colored jerseys and little
round caps and wearing no shoes or
stockings; graceful and handsome Gre
oles, negroes Of all ages and in all stages
Of dilapidation, rotund Spanish officials
full Of wine and good meats, beggars,
gunboat officers fastening in conscious
dignity to the dock, jack tars in blue
trousers, wide at the bottom, and white
shirt with rolling blue collar, others in
white duck and once in awhile come some
women with fan and lace shawl. China
men and coolies and many a nondescript
complete the motley procession.
The streets of Havana are said to be
narrow. A person does not appreciate
this until he traverses them. In the older
portions Of the city one vehicle has diff
Guilty in passing another. The sidewalks
are about feet wide, and the pedes-
trian is continually being crowded off
by people whom he meets. These Ha-
yanans do not always go to the right, as
we do. They saunter along regardless
of any one else. With true Spanish effu-
siveness, the young men walk with their
arms around each others shoulders, as
do schoolgirls in the United States.
A Havana street is a most bewildersng
sight. Here is countryman astride of a
mule and with a pannier on each side
of it. He has the machete at his hip.
There is yoke Of oxen harnessed in
most peculiar fashion to 2-wheeled
cart, and here are three mules loaded
down with harness and tassels and
driven by a swarthy red capped STRIPPING
perched on the cart behind them. Naked
children stand in doorways, and almond
eyed wenches jabber in groups. The
houses form one continuous line and
have gratings instead of doors and win
dows, SO the interiors are visible to
every one. The structures are cool, but |
much resemble Jail. The streets are
paved with round stones, and the vehicles
raise great din. The smells are awful.
Rotten fruit, stagnant water, filth of all
kinds, contribute to make one grand i
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