St. Paul daily globe., 1893-04-30
TAItOR-MA GOWNS
They Are Still the Proper
Thing for Stylish Women
to Wear.
The New York Herald Made
the Fiat and Claims the
Victory.
What the Nautical Gown
Should Be, and the
WeareP Of 1t.
Description Of the Apparels
Which We're Seen at
the Review.

Special Letter to the Globe.
NEW YORK, April 29.-Redfern was
largely represented at the naval review.
| had been previously told that tailor
made gowns were going out, and that
this year the dreSsmakers would be
triumphant, glOrying in frillS and fur
bellows. and laughing with tiendiSh glee
al those manniSh modiSteS whose day
they believed to be past. l wondered
what would become of those eX-favor-
ties of the feminine public, and walked
up Fifth avenue half expecting to see
the Prince of Wales feathers over Red
ferns portals in state of utter collapse,
and the red carpet tnat usually protects
the steps, mOss-grOWn and neglected.
Not so, however.
The Herald has decided by the late
competition that the well-dreSSed
woman shall be dressed in tailor gown.
That she shall wear jaunty coat made
in wOrkmanlike style by manly hands,
albeit il Is modified by a kind OF lrim-
ming where the dreSSmakerS art Is re-
Quired. That there shall be suggeS-
ton of manniShneSS about her vest, and
that her collar shall have KIND
of affinity with her brOther'S.
However, the ladies who did such
credit to their country on the 21th OF
April. 1898, had not apparently waited
for the Herald TO come to decision.
The gowns, lovely, startling and orig
inal, that they wore were the work of
some weeks. The bees of the tailOr'S
hives must have been tOiling over them
for some time. They were nearly all OF
them distinctly taiiOr-made.
Certainly the nautical gown should
not be lightly put together gOSSamer
thing, for sea breeZeS are strong and
SEA water is penetrating.
1t should be strong, it should be neat,
1t should be as nearly tight fitting as is
consistent with fashion and becoming
ness.
Navy blue has been, is, and always
will be the nautical color, par eX-
crllence, and, with the exception of
white, red and gold, other cOlOrS are apt
to detract from the true nautical get up.
The picturesque, lOppy kind Of
woman VINO wears her hair always a
little out of curl, and whose general ef-
feet is made up of ends of ribbon. lace,
and a kind OF bric-a-brac style Of
millinery and head gear, whose back
ground is generally yellow sofa cushions
and Il shaded lamp, is not the kind to
make yachting gown fOr-she doesn't
do it credit. The hair comes entirely
out of curl. the ribbon ends look untidy,
the bric-a-brac millinery won't stay on,
you observe the want Of the yellow sofa
cushions and the lamp; and the rigging,
the tarpaulln. and the choppy sea don't
make a becoming substitute.
Sail cloth was the material most pop
ular on the 9th. This is rather similar
to the stuff which flags are made of,
being cOarsely woven. In the Redfern
suits it is seen in every nautical color.
Serge, of course, was seen, of the rough
est and coarsest kind. Lavish silk lin
ings showed as the wind tossed the
dainty garments about. Gold braid
'glittered, nautical devices in thick en-
brOidery stood out from the fanciful
costumes in bold relief and forced them
selves onto the observers attention.
This week we give two pretty
sketches of coats. The first is Red
ferns regulation 1895 REFER for yacht
ing. 1t is made of white serge, with
navy blue sail cloth collar aud cuffs.
The novelty and iauntiness of its style
have made it very popular.