davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
THE LATEST STYLES.
OLD LECE GOODS CAN NOW &c EASILY
UTILIZED.

The Jacket Gives Way to the Cape-Laoe
Tor shawIs and skirts-ChiIdren.. Cos
tumes-SiIk Tissues-A Wonderful Ar
ray of Stylish CoIors.
copyright. 1888, by American Press Assocla-
toni
One of the prettiest Of the latest de
velopments in summer wraps is the lace
Russian blouse with Spanish combina-
ton In the shape of figaro jacket more
or less pronounced. These blouses rare
ly have sleeves, but in their places full
caps or falls Of lace reaching nearly or
quite to the elbow. Some of them are
Of Spanish lace, others of chantilly, and
some are Of fshnet Many Of the pat
tern laces have the design outlined in
small jet beads, which give a richness
and beauty indispensable.
Ribbons and black silk or velvet &C
cessories make these blouse wraps IN
approachable for beauty and elegance.
Lace shawls and lace skirts that have
been laid aside can be utilized In making
blouses, and if the pattern has been
frayed or torn clever manipulation with
Jet beads viii cover all that. The fish
net laceS should be trimmed with several
rows Of narrow MORE or satin ribbon
around the bottom and on the yoke and
sleeves. Some have full ruche collars,
others the pierrot style.
On many of the newest summer frocks
there will be laid fat lace insertion, black
over light colors and white over such as
will show through to the best advantage.
Lace as trimming will be lavishly en-
ployed on all summer garments where it
Is possible to put it. One sees lace on
broadcloth sometimes, and one sees it
OVERLAND fiat ON velvet or fulled ON as
closely as it can be gathered, so that it
falls like ruche.
lace as trimming ON little girls dresses
Is now pronounced success and favor
lite, particularly for berthas and bretelles.
Double rows of lace placed around the
shoulders and dropping over the arms
make a pretty finish to an otherwise
plain gown. Black china silk and pongee
are being made up for young girls, the
skirts gathered and otherwise quite plain,
the waists gathered to belt, with rib
bon belt and rosette in pale blue, apple
green or some other light and delicate
shade.
For children the sleeves are made
with an upper puff and coat shape on
the forearm, but the puff is not very
large. L notice that there are two dis
tinct styles for young girls. One is mod
fled empire and the other u combina-
ton of all kinds united in a common
sense and useful manner, suited to the
needs of growing children with active
bodies.
The size of the sleeves in fashionable
gowns makes jackets almost impossible,
so that the CANAL and other short capes
are necessities, and as even the light
military cape is too much for very warm
days lace ones are taking their places,
and also 1 notice in recent importation
shown only to a chosen few some long
shawls" made OF soft twilled silk, very
flexible and of light cream or beige
ground, with cross bayadere stripes. The
shawl is 3yards long, selvage on both
edges and fringed at the ends.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
Rules For Admission to the Fair.

Passes which bear indication of hav-
ing been tempered with are to be taken
up. Children under years of age will
be admitted free, provided they are &C
companied with parents or guardians.
If the little visitor is not carried in arms,
the gatekeepers must direct that they
pass under the wings of the turnstiles.
The gatekeepers are made the judges of
the children's ages. If child's general
appearance and size indicate it TO be old
er than 6 years, the official is empowered
to deny it admission. The gatekeepers
are instructed to exercise great discretion
in this matter.
Besides the Photographic passes, trip
passes and special press passes, there is
another pass called @ complimentary
card. This pass will be issued in the
name Of the person TO be admitted and
will be good only on the day of issue.
When such card is presented, the gate
keeper must insist that the holder de-
post with the pass one of his personal
cards. If the visitor is unprovided with
such card, the official will furnish a
blank card and pencil, and the holder Of
the pass must write his or her name
thereon. This is for the purpose of Sc
curing some sort Of Identification. No
deviation from this rule is permitted
Chicago Letter.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
THE NECESSITY OF LUXURY.
why Not Be Happy When 1t Costs Moth
ing?

why Not Be Happy When 1t Costs Moth
ing?
A great many women have found out
what my text means and have taken the
lesson only too well to heart. 1t is not
intended for that class of selfish human
beings, but for another still larger class
who consider in some ways their own
needs too seldom. All womenly women
need q certain amount of petting. Very
few women get it. What 1 wish to con-
tend is that there are ways of indulging
ones self that are more accessible than
we are prone to think. So long as it
harms no one else, why shouldn't we pet
ourselves?
Sometimes it is coveted book that may
be bought, a delightful picture that may
be seen, tiny trip that may be taken.
None of these things costs much IN money.
1t is more that they are pushed aside by
what we are apt to regard as weightier
matters. Now, little toning up and
summing of ones fancieS is precisely as
necessary as a new gown or the recover
ing of q shabby chair. The great trou-
BILE is that we can't judiciously weigh
the two wants. Either the wife and
mother is unworthy her noble title-the
grandest earth can give-and thinks Of
herself first and to the seclusion of her
family, or she never thinks of herself at
all. Certainly the latter course Is the
better, but it is bad.
She becomes nothing more than a mar
row minded drudge VINO never gives her
self an innocent gratiicaton-quIte as
surely as she is Il wicked despOt who
takes those that are not innocent because
they invade the rights of others. The
best way would be for her husband and
her children to consider her tastes and
to occasionally crafty them. Yet, since
it must often happen that they will not
do this, there is no need that she should
go without. She can easily crafty her
self
Those who live in the city have all
mans artifce to help them in this. Those
who live in the country have natures
hand to help. 1t may be a walk by the
river; it may be a street car ride TO the
park. At the most it need not require
an outlay Of time nor money that cannot
be arranged if the circumstances belong
to the ordinary, and most circumstances
do.
In story read once long ago one SEN
tence haunts me. though the rest is all
forgotten. \ child inquired in innocent
sympathy of an unhappy sister, Must
| you be miserable:'
The frank answer was No L tlrIaly
| believe that often is the answer.
RUTH HALL
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20

These long shawls' are drawn straight
across the shoulder III the back and over
the arms AID thence fall nearly to the
bottom of the dress. They are quaint
and pretty. l noticed one. however.
made of black taffeta silk that was very
odd, but very pretty. The back was cut
like round cape, but 1t did not reach
up to the neck. 1t crossed the shoulders,
and two long, rounded tabs fell to the
knees There was knotted fringe all
around il, and it fastened at the waist
line with a handsome jet buckle, leaving
the front of the waist exposed V shaped.
A few are made of dimity with lace ruff
fies and few of null. The white ones
are arranged to cross the bust and tie
behind.
These "'bit capies," as the Scotch clerk
called them, are very suitable to the
STYLES now in vogue, and their popular
ity will certainly outlast the summer.
Some of them are called Marie An
toinette f6hus and do much resemble
those seen in the pictures of that unfor-
tunate queen. l saw q new gown just
finished for q young society belle-of sky
blue silk muslin with three pale pink
milliner's folds of satin around the foot.
There was a belt made of satin folds, and
over the gathered waist there was tichu
of null with two fluted ruffles inches
wide. The ends of the fichu were so long
that they crossed in front and reached TO
the back, where they tied in bowknot,
and still the rounded ends reached near
Iy to the bottom of the skirt.
There are several choice new fancles
in fabrics brought forward now, some of
them exceedingly beautiful, particularly
a glace silk in light ground, such as
putty color. beige or gray, and over this
are thick ribs of different color, though
ALWAYS artistically matched or contrast
ed. Some Of them have the ribs disposed
in such way as to form striped ma
terial.
Then there is 4 glace diagonal with
the ribs slaptwise in silk over wooden
ground in contrasting color, making
very rich fabric of it. There are Grape
like stuffs and other soft, silky woolens,
so as to look like coarse burlaps, though
really elegant. The new wooden goods
have nearly all some figure or stripe OF
silk over the surface, generally in heavy
cord Poplin is also shown with nov
city bordering of satin stripes at the
edo,--r.-form the trimming. Cocks foot
Is another style of goods, as 1t is woven
in design Ike-e1e scales upon a chick
ems foot. It is of sink and wool and Is
shown in very light colors.
Silk tissue will be largely used for
handsome afternoon and evening dresses.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20

nett. all different grades of royal purple;
nero, bloody, yellowish red; salambo,
a russell red; aiglon, the color Of an
eagles back; dauphine, a delicate flesh
tint; phebus. yellow like the morning
sun, and straw color, besides nile and
apple greens. Some of these colors are
plain, others wrought i'll contrasting
stripes or iii changeable reps or other
effects. Light colors, however, will
prevail.
Among the favorite goods for the
season are the crepons and creponettes,
and they are not only beautiful, but
comparatively cheap. Some of the new
est ones are very odd. There is q sort
of curled crepon, woven in such way
as to make it seem like two fabrics one
over the other, in different shades or
colors. HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.
New York.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
Hawaiian Stamps
WANTED.

TWILL PAY CASH, FOR EITHER
L large or small quantities of used Ha-
waiian Postage Stamps, as follows:
(These offers are per hundred and any
quantity will be accepted, no matter how
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
For Sale.
%
Mortgages Notice Of Intention to
FOreclOSe and Of Sale.

NOTICE IS HEREBY GIVEN,
~ that in pursuance of a power OF
sale contained in certain mort
gage executed August 4th, 1891,
by Hanakeola Kinimaka of Honolulu,
Island of Oahu, TO n. Monwar
OF the same place, and recorded
in Liber 139, pages 400 and 407, the said
mortgage intends TO foreclose the said
mortgage for condition broken, to-wit:
the non payment of the principal and
interest secured thereon when due.
And notice is hereby further given that
upon said foreclosure land unless said
mortgage shall have been sooner paid
all and singular the lands, tenements
and hereditaments in said mortgage con-
tanned and described will be sold at pub
lie auction, at the auction room of Lewis
j. Levev, on Queen street, Honolulu, on
THU RSDAY, the 9Th day of October,
1898, at y O'Clock noon OF said day.
The property in said mortgage is those
certain lands and all improvements
thereon, situate at the corner of Mer-
chant and Alakea streets, in said Homo
lulu, and more fully described in that
certain assignment of lease made by B.
II. Kahananui, on the Sd day of April,
1856, and recorded in Llber 81, page 456.
E~F For further particulars, apply to
Chas. Creighton, kaahumanu street, Ho-
nolulu, Ii. l. n. MONWAR,
Mortgage.
Honolulu, H. l., Sept. -, 1898.
34S2-3w
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20

Notes.
Hawaii's Conservatory OF Polynesian
Relics, Ancient and Modern.
Early and Late Grinding.
Our Fortunate Isles.
The Story of Hawaii's Departed
Forests, Verdure and Rains.
Crystalization in Movement.
Diffusion.-Keport of M. Bouchon to
the Sugar Congress held in Paris.
A Cluster Pumalo-A Citrous Fruit.
Pineapples in Florida.
Recent Agricultural Inventions.
Hawaiian Kona Coffee.
The Brazil Coffee Crop.
Field Experiments with Sugar Cane on
Calumet Plantation, Patterson, La.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20

Or, to any foreign country for 20 Cent
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20
n. Nj. WHITNEY. EDi7oE.
Price in Honolulu, 60 Cents per Copy
The Book has lac pages Of text, with
20 Full Page Illustrations Of Island Scenery

and description OF the Pearl HaIboI
Railway enterprise, and surrounding
country.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-09-20

G@ Published by the
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
BUSINESS TROUBLES.
What the Records For the First Quarter of
the Year Show.

NFw YORK, March 31.-The failures
for the last seven days reported to Dun
and Russell number for the United
States 166. Corresponding week last
year figures represent 199 in United
States.
Failures for first quarter 1898; eastern
states, 359 failures, $5,1O9,S7l liabilities;
total, s,2O4 failures, $47,33s, 800 iabili-
ties.
Bradstreet's says the business failures
throughout the United States for the
past three months number 1909, small
er total with one exception than report
ed for IL years. The exception was the
first quarter of 1888 when the total was
3,O55.
The total liabilities of individuals,
firms and corporations failing during the
past quarter aggregate $50, ,424, 1858, COM
pared with $35, 1861, TAO in 1892, falling
off in the number of failures of trifile
over per cent. The total assets of fail
ing traders during the months of this
year 500, ,0S3, an increase of about II
per cent
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
CHEAPER THAN IN MAINE.
The Office Brokers' Fee in Maine Is In
variably Ten Dollars.

NEW YORK, March 31.-Mrs. Lizzie
Badly, aged about Al, was arraigned in
Jefferson Market Police Court today,
charged with swindling two men of
$1,000 by representing her influence
would secure them good berths under
President Cleveland. just after eelction
Mrs. Badly opened an Office at S94 Broad
way and advertised herself as ''broker"
in government offices. Among the vic
tins who answered the advertisement
were Charles Bobel and Frank Lowery.
She told them she had influence with
President Cleveland and could easily Sc
cure them positions in the Treasury De-
partment. She charged them $500 each.
Detective records show many other
complaints. The police learned of her
swindling business, but before they
could arrest her she disappeared. A
few days ago she was arrested in Balti-
more and brought here. She had moth
ing to say in court today and was hand
ed over to the district attorneys Office.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
.BEHRIN0 SEA.
Russia Proposes Temporary Arrange
ment to Great Britain.

LONDON, March 31.-A st. Petersburg
correspondent says the Russian govern
ment has proposed as temporary ar
rangement with Great Britain in the
Behring Sea matter tht ten mile limit off
the mainland coast and thirty miles off
Commander and Robin islands. The
Russian authorities declare the talxings
of the captured British sealers comprised
92 per cent females, per cent males and
5 per cent doubtful.
Russia complains that the dispute be-
tween Great Britain and the United
States has driven all foreign sealers to
the Russian side of the Behring Sea,
causing decrease of the Russian COM
pany's catch from 80, 900 in 1891, to 90
900 in 1892. Negotiations between
England and Russia on this question are
friendly.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
FOUR IMPEACHED.
The Nebraska Legislature Doing That
Business by Wholesale.

LINCOLN, Neb., March s1.-The joint
convention of the legislature today, 1877
to 4, adopted resolution of impeach-
ment against Attorney General Hastings,
Secretary of State Allen, Commissioner
Humphrey and ex-Treasurer Hill. Be
fore the adoption of the resolution, SEN
ator Pope offered communication from
the four gentlemen, asking the adoption
of the impeachment resolution so they
might have chance to be heard in their
own defence. The resolution was
amended to charge misdemeanor instead
of malfeasance.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
Mrs. e. A. Il. Watson.
Thomas M. Newson.
The First Town Meeting,
MECHANIC FALLS, March 81.

MECHANIC FALLS, March 81.
The first town meeting of the new and
prospering town of Mechanic Falls was
held here today and the following officers
were elected:
Moderator. M. Libby Esq.
Clerk and Treasurer-C H. Dwinal
Selectmen-A. j. Western, f. II. Mcdonnell,
j. X. Dennen.
Collector-A. G. Dennirson.
School Committee-F. o. Purington, F. E.
Millett and H. E. Thurston.
Town Auditor-F E. Tufts.
Town AGENT. M. Libby.
The town voted to raise $1,000 for the
support of the. poor; $4,000 for roads and
bridges; $1,000 for Incidental expenses;
S25Oo for schools; $3.50 for free High
school.
A committee consisting of S. R. Penny,
E. A. Cannon and A. j.. Weston were
elected to investigate the method and
expense of putting in water works and
electric lights.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
fggs Is szsqsE PRICE THREE CENTS

There is also great peace movement
in Europe. The labor unions and the
better class of socialists are against war.
There is an effort to create peace party
in every parliament in Europe; and this
party in the German parliament the 9th
er day secured the defeat of the army
bill. In the universities there is also a
movement. The great banking houses
and business interests are for peace.
The perfectness of the army systems
of Europe seems to presage their down
fall.
Arbitration has since 1916 been the
rule. There have been 76 cases, the
United States taking part in more than
half.
DIR. Trueblood then exhorted his hear
ers to use their influence against war.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
Mayor Leavitt.

Eastport, March 31.-Eastport held its
first city election today, and the Demo-
Gratis made a clean sweep of all the city
officers. General s. D. Leavitt was elect
ed mayor over E. E. Shead by III major
ity. The aldermen chosen are John j.
Pike, B. F. Milliken, Stephen Sherlock,
A. W. Clark, Chas. E. Martin, w. II. Nc
Larren, C. 81. Dyer and Sylvanus Went
worth. 1t is just ten years since the
Democrats were in control, and they are
celebrating tonight, A year ago the Re-
publicans carried the city by 21S majori-
ty.
Anew Paper.
RocKLAND, March 31.-Union is to
have weekly newspaper named the
Times, with George W. Fish editor and
proprietor. The Georges Valley railroad
will soon be running to Union, and the
town needs a paper. 1t will be nom
political, and eight pages. The publica-
ton begins in few days.
Commissioner of Fisheries.
AUGUSTA, March 31.-In compliance
with the request made by the Penobscot
delegation in the legislature, Governor
Cleaves has appointed Thomas H. Went
worth of Bangor as commissioner of
fisheries and game, in place of f. M.
Stillwell, deceased. Mr.. Wentworth is
prominent lawyer, and very generally
endorsed by eastern Maine.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
ExBs DisoHrneExa
BABY JuBs-
BABY NICOLAS.


beautiful babies dis
blood with hair,
their
painful recital
Add
to worth the
daily CUcuRA
They and crossroads Grateful
works wonders and its
marvellous this of medicine To know that
application the REMEDIES WILL the majority OF
and economical
delay fail
made infancy childhood speedy and permanent
cHr1cuR RHsolvEN ST. Prepared by POTTER
DAND
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
BRIEFLY TOLD.

About 200 houses were burnt at Gale
lena, Maryland, yesterday.
The trial of M. B. Curtis, at San Fran
cisco, has been continued to May 25.
Mare Maggie Sultan, (2.3O) years old,
of j. Malcolm Forbes stables yesterday
gave birth to filly, sired by Arion, the
Californian Q year old wonder (2.101,
purchased by Mr.. Forbes little over a
year ago, it is said. for $125,000. Arion
it is stated will be bred TO Nancy nnlHanks
the coming season.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
CLEVELAND
Will Withdraw the Russian Extradiiion
Treaty.

LONDON, March 91.-The Berlin cor
respondent of the Standard says Presi-
dent Cleveland has telegraphed the
United States legation at st. Petersburg,
to stop all negotiations in regard to the
extradition treaty between the United
States and Russia and endeavor to have
the whole matter referred back to him.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
THIS NOR NlNG's NEWS

HIS MOR MINUS NEWS
Professor Trueblood on the Armies of Europe.
Weather indications.
Obituary.
General telegraph news.
Page 2.
Supreme Judicial Court.
the Democratic bosses.
Hoke Smiths chilly reception of a Maine states
man.
E. H. EIwell, Jr., lectures on the cliff dweilers.
Page 3.
Bald headed solons.
Sunday services in Portland churches.
PACED.
Business at the New York post Office.
Editorials.
Magazine notices.
Page 8.
Deaths and marriages.
Music and drama.
Easter music.
The city's health.
SpiritualiStS' anniversary.
Page 6.
Wit and Wisdom.
How President Harrison went duck shooting.
Page Z.
Financial and Commercial.
Marine News.
Page s.
Warden Harper resigns.
Railway matters.
Personal
Brief Jottings.
Page 8.
The issue involved in the Ann Arbor case.
Trans-Mississippi Congress.
Our diplomats.
Page 10.
Poem: A border homecoming.
Story: Browns partner.
Page IL.
New York fashions.
Pictures by telegraph.
Page he
Dr.. Talmage's Sermo-
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
Weather Observations.

The following are the observations of
the Agricultural Department Weather
Bureau for yesterday, March 81, taken
at D. M, 10Th meridian time, the OBJ
servations for each station being given in
this order: Temperature. direction of
the wind, state of the weather:
Boston, 42o. W. claer: New York,
5Oo, NV, partly cloudy; Philadelphia,
54o, NV, partly cloudy; Washington, 540 !,
W, partly cloudy; Albany, 400, W, clear;
Buffalo, 460, e, rain; Detroit, $50, Sc,
cloudy; Chicago, 66', SW, cloudy;
St. Paul, 42o, NV, partly cloudy; St.
44o. NV, clear; Bismarck, 4Oo, NV,
clear; Jacksonville 66,0, S, clear.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
THE WEATHER.
Fair. Followed by Local Rain.

Fair. Followed by Local Rain.
BOSTON, March 31.-For New England
for Saturday: Fair, followed by local
rains during the afternoon or evening;
warmer; south to southwest winds.
Cooler Sunday.
WASHINGTON, March 31.-For New
England: Fair in the morning; light
local showers during the evening;
warmer; southwesterly winds.
Local Weather Report.
PORTLAND Me March 81 1898
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
. PORTLAND MAINE SATURDAY MORNING, 1898

fee of only So can be allowed. 1t is
said that probably 200, 900 claims will be
affected by this decision.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01

Yesterday, Montreal was visited by
another disastrous fire. JAS. McDougall,
tailor, Jas. Wardlow, leather, Thomas
Samuelson, thread and yarns, and Mimic,
Layighe & Co., being burned out.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1893-04-01
5 A. M. ?. M.

Mean daily ther. 38.OIMax. vel.wind..26 NV
Maximum ther. 43.9 Total precip..... .O2
Minimum ther. .. ..32.2I