davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
His Character, as Noted by Actor
William H. Crane.
HOW THE CRITICS VIEW HIM.
The Curious Alliance of Fat with Fal-
stairs Mental Processes.
Either the Character Was Produced by
Study from Living Original, or
Evolved Out of Shakes
peare's Experience.
downright.

Ever since the days when as mere tot,
with what must have been, as [ look back
upon it, an infinite capacity for hard
work. an infnitesimal amount of expert
ence and a boundless fund Of enthusiasm,
l earned about what was worth, namely
my clothes and my board, as junior
member of a travelling comic opera COM
pany, have always had desire to play
the part of Falstaff rather than any other
of Shakespeare marvellous creations. In
the first place loved the man himself, in
the second | early recognized the mex
haustible acting capabilities of the part
which before all else must impress any
thoughtful actor helping to confirm the
belief, if confirmation be necessary,
held by all stage workers that the
great dramatist wrote with ap-
parent intimate knowledge of modern
stage requirements that seem well nigh
incredible when we reflect on the IN
doubted crudity of things Theatre in his
day. With truly marvellous prescience
he seemed to see into the future and to
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
Simplicity and Plainess the Rule
for Street Costumes.
SOME NEW IDEAS FOR DRESS.
Accordion Plaits, Charming BIOuses.
Storm CIOaks and Skating Dress.
Very New and Stunning Evening Dresses
as Shown Pictorially in a Box
Party-A Real Feast for
Herald Lady Readers.
icopyright.l

PARIS, Jan. lin Paris women of the
highest social position are simple and
plain in their street dress. Curious
novelties and the sensational they leave
to those who have no claim TO notice ex-
cept through dress. The gown described
by me last week as belonging TO the Prin-
cesse de Brancovan, who is one of the
most brilliant leaders of Partisan society,
is good example of this affected simple
ity. 1t is not on these women that one
sees the fanciful novelty cloths and the
1mpressionistiS colors. Plain dark shades
or black are the preferred out-ot-door
wear.
It is the same in New York. There one
will see Mrs. Sloane out of an afternoon
in the plainest sort of black gown and
cloth jacket. She does not wish to at
tract the attention of the public. This
dress is the price she pays for having been
born a Vanderbilt. Poor rich woman!
With gold to buy the most beautifully
decorative dress, they are constrained to
wear what is inexpensive and unnotice-
able.
Mrs. Robert Hoe is another New York
instance. The daughter of London
banker, who left each of his children six
millions, Mrs. Hoe manages her own for
tune independently of her husbands and
does with it as she pleases. A great deal
of pin money, you think. Yet she dresses
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
PRICE: FIVE CENTs

come general in Washington. When the
Metropolitan Club was built, some six or
eight years ago, it was the first building
IN town of any size to have the top floor
given over to the uses OF a kitchen. At
the time the subject was discussed pro
and con, and many prophesied that the
new idea would be very generally follow
ed. Time has proved the fallacy of those
predictions, as the buildings which have
since been constructed on a similar plan
are few and far between, while in private
houses there are no kitchens on the ton
floor, except in the handsome brown
stone residence erected by ex-senator
Palmer Last winter the property was
leased by Secretary and Mrs Elkins, who.
though otherwise pleased with the pleas
ant, sunny house, have experienced no
end OF trouble because the kitchens are
on the top floor.
The servants object, as they are cut of
from all intercourse with their friends,
VINO remain away rather than mount so
many flights of steps. At the MetropOIi-
tan Club the cooks, with their white caps
and aprons, present a most attractive APP
pearance during warm afternoons when
assembled Tor a chat IN the balconies I'M
der the caves.
Whatever may be said for or against
kitchens in that portion of the house.
they will certainly never be popular with
the majority OF servants, who do not re-
lish the opportunity thus afforded for
looking down on humanity in general. -
Kate Faetd'S Washington.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
Accordion Plaits.

They still grace the form of beauty,
these fine plaitings, which for dress dec
orations are as old as ancient Egypt, but
whose course is not yet run, nor been in
terrupted, nor is likely to be. saw in a
trousseau the other day set Of under
wear of pale tinted mousseline de sole all
crinped into the finest folds and living in
such narrow compass it could have been
passed through wedding ring. 1t looked
like the clinging garment that wrinkles
over the limbs of the Niobe. Than these
tinv folds when used with discretion there
is 40 simpler or more beautiful decoration.
They are employed in a very exquisite
evening gown ofrecent make. The skirt
OF pale grayish-blue crepon is accordion
plated onto an empire yoke. The yoke is
covered with a Marie Antoinette ichu of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
The Dominating school Girl.

In our Anglo-Saxon social system the
young girl is everywhere, and, if the
shade of Stern viii allow me to say so,
we temper the wind of our realism to the
sensitive innocence of the ubiquitous
lamb. We like to believe that our wom-
en- are better than those of foreign ma
lions. We owe it to them to put more
faith in them because they are our own,
our dear mothers and wives and sisters
and daughters, for whom, if we be men,
we mean to do all that men can do. But
we are all men and women nevertheless,
and human. and we have the thoughts
and understanding of men and women and
not OF school girls. Yet the school girl
practically decides what we are to hear at
the theatre and so far as our own lam
guage is concerned, determines to a great
extent what we are to read.-F. Marion
Crawford in The Forum
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

The prosiac umbrella has become YER
liable ''object Dart. Among the most
fashionable specimens thereof is a dark
purple silk one, with rock crystal handle,
incrusted with pearls and turquoises. An
other umbrella which deserves special
mention is of navy blue gros grain,
with a yellow turquoise-shen handle in
the shape of a snake, beautifully carved
and holding in its open mouth golden
apple. Less costly handles are made Of
Wildwood. adorned with ladybirds
bees, wasps, or even spiders, of pink CO.
raj, lapislazui and fine enamel while the
perfection of chic is attained by dark
sapphire blue-ribbed silk umbrella. with
SAKE porcelain handle in two blues rep
resenting a crooked stick, on which is
perched little parrot scratching its
crested head with its curved claws. -Neu
York Tribune.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

The Duchess Of Northumberland is the
possessor of a shawl which was presented
by King Charles K. of France, and which
cost half million of francs. It is manu-
featured from the fur Of a species of Per-
sian cat. The hair of this cats fur is so
extremely fine and elastic that a single
hair is scarcely perceptible to the naked
eye. The spinning and weaving of this
material and the production of a single
shawl like the one referred to requires a
few thousand of cat skins and the labor
of several years. The Duchess of North
umberland's shawl measures 8 yards
square, but is so fine and elastic that it
can, if necessary, be compressed into a
large coffee cup.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

these women have not gone out properly
dresses, and have had to worry about
their clothes. One would hardly enjoy a
warm perfumed bath, if they got into the
tuo IN Inelr oese evening gown.
ing myself in caoutchouc A rubber
covering somehow offends nv taste
Moreover, owing | suppose to the fact
that fashionable women have no use for
them, they have been cut into verv ugly
forms, the great designers having ne
elected them. There is an improvement.
however, and the newest design have
seen is very good one. The loose back
is laid in six side plaits turning inward.
and the front in one plat on each side.
under which the openings for hands are
concealed. This looks very well. but
more practicable design would aeem to be
one modelled somewhat after a man's
waterproof cloak; that is to say, a short
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

pieces, which it is the fashion in Paris to
cut very pointed. Several short cores
where it is sewed on at the neck make it
set out from the head with sufficient
width. Such hoods are very much seen
community. Not only the frequently
passing priest reminds us of the origin of
their name, but they are on the little
cloaks worn by policemen, omnibus con-
ductors and other men whose duties lie
out OF doors. Also the popular school
cloak for boys of from ten to fifteen is
half long cape of dark blue cloth with one
of these hoods, which is drawn up over
the cap on cold day. The capuchin can
be seen in our picture of a storm cloak
This cloak is. made of one of the heavy
Scotch cloakings woven with tartan on
the under side. ADA CONE
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

recognize that with the passage of cen
turies the stage would keep pace with the
march of other arts and sciences and be-
come the complex affair, viewed from a
mechanical and plastic point of view,
which is familiar to US in the nineteenth
century, but which would strike one of
his own contemporaries dumb with
amazement.
There is, in my opinion, but one other
which in complexity and subtlety, in the
inexhaustible variety he offers to the
artist and the unvarying pleasure he af-
fords even when indifferently portrayed
to the audience can be compared with the
fat knight, and that is Hamlet.
AS critic OF the eighteenth century,
who is known to us only by his essay on
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

duly mingled upon any receipt whatever;
it required the hand of Shakespeare him
self to give to every particular part a
relish OF the whole, and of the whole to
every particular part; alike the same in
congruous, identical Falstaff, whether to
the grave chief justice he vainly talks of
his youth and offers to caper for thous-
and or cries to Mrs. Doll Il am old, l am
old, although she is seated on his lap and
he is counting her for buses (1).''
DR.. Johnson is no less enthusiastic, and
in his ponderous way remarks: ''But
Falstaff, unimitated, unimitable Falssaff
how shall [ describe thee? thou COM
pound of sense and vice; of sense which
may be admired but not esteemed; of vice
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

lnsets and border of rich Venetian lace
The sleeves are a double puff of the muslin
slashed with the lace and having a lace ruff
fie. Depending from the shoulders and
hanging low under the arms are sling
sleeves of lace. The skirt has several
rows of ribbon of the same tint as the
crepon above the hem. delicious con-
lection. Nothing more elegant has been
made this season, and it is so well de-
signed that it is a good model for a les
costly dress. Without the lace and by
making the sleeves long ana the neck
high, nothing could be better designed
Tor young girls party dress.
have seen an evening gown of the
Marshioness of Stafford that has accor-
dion plaits of mousseline de sole for neck
garniture. The neck is cut out in a heart
shaped curve, and there is a double frill,
the under one reaching nearly to the
elbows, entirely covering the short
sleeve and fr1lling out toward the edge
to give that triangular effect which the
Louis Philippe revival has made FASH
lOnahIe
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

which may be despised but hardly de-
tected,' and so he continues on practic-
ally the same lines and ends with truly
Johnsonian piece of moraIizing.
William Hazlitt, that critic of critics.
observes (2) 'tFalstaff is perhaps the most
comic character that ever was
invented. Sir John carries most portIy
presence in the minds eye; and in him,
not to speak of it profanely, I'VE behold
the fullness of the spirit of wit and humor
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

this single character, observes: CHE is a
and fat, dupe and wit, harmless and
wicked. weak in principle and resolute by
constitution, cowardly in appearance and
brave in reality, knave without malice,
a liar without deceit, and a knight, gen
tleman and soldier without either de-
cency, dignity or honor. This is char
acter, which, though it may be
decompounded, could not, believe, have
been formed nor the ingriendents OF it
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

Good-natured Friend-What a nice
looking little dear it is.
Fond Mother-Do you think it takes
after me or its dada?
Good-natured Friend-Well, don't
see any resemblance to either of you Just
vet; but you never can tell, they change
so as they grow up, and sometimes the
prettiest babies grow up plainest.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

Mrs. John Ogilvie Roorbach, of Mystic.
Conn, has a copy of the prayer book
printed in the Mohawk language for Rev.
John Ogilvie, assistant minister OF Trim
ity church, New York, in 1869. Only
bach, it is said, has received an offer OF
s., 900 for the book from the British mu-
scum.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

perience in a manner easily to be under
stood by an actor or else the character was
studied with close fidelity from living
original. The latter conceive to be the
most likely of the two, though 1t is a
pleasant reflection to indulge in, that the
lines l have so often spoken have fallen
from the lips of the master himself, and
that, perchance, some OF the traditional
business which has done me such good
service has been HANDED down from the
very fountain head itself.
J have often been asked whether, in or
der to play any particular part with fl
deity, it is not necessary for the actor to
be in close sympathy, both morally and
Intellectually, with his creation, to which
have replied that in my judgment it is
absolutely necessary that he have intel
lectual, and preferable that he have moral
sympathy with the character. Naturally,
if play villain do not approve of vii
lainy, but | should, conceive, respect
and to certain extent admire the methods
by which my mock villain executed his
mock villainies. Thus with Falstaff. One
may not, on the other band, go to the ex-
tent of HazliJt, who, in effect, says that
we should blame Falstaff's character as
little as that OF the actor who
plays him, and who will not forgive the
prince his treatment of Falstaff on the
ground that to readers Of poetry In the
present day, Falstaff appears as the bet
ter man of the two; but on the other,
one need not go so far az Nathan Drake
or as cur own Haekett, than whom no
American actor has attained greater fame
in the part, who, according to his own
monograph on the character and from
the description given of the performance,
recognized no amiable or tolerable quail
ity as cloak to FaIstaff's moral defor1n
ity save his brilliant wit and irresistible
humor. For myself, | feel that though
he is rogue, yet is Falstaf a gentle
mana man OF breeding and education;
though ne either affects or feels q
physical cowardice, yet is his moral
courage undoubted; though he describes
1t, yet do we never see him drunk;
though in his heyday and prosperity he
is imprudent, yet in his fall and latter
misery he does not whine or crawl, but
retains to the last a certain dignity of
rascaldom. He is throughout, as with q
whimsicality under which a certain truth
lies, he describes himself when writing to
the prince, thine by yea and no, !" which
is as much as to say as thou useth him.
Jack Falstaff with his famiIiars, John
John with all Europe. To us who love
him despite his grievous faults he is ever
'sJack, - to those who pity vet desplse
him ssJohn,'' while to those who neither
love nor pity, merely ssSir John.'' a fat
man and rogue, but withal knight.
WILLIAM Fl. CRANE.
NOTES
{D An essay on the dramatic character of
Sir John Falstan by Maurice Morgan Esq.
~ Characters of Shakespeare's play by
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
A HOUSE BODICE.

A charming blouse can be made by
plating in these fine crimps either nun s
yelling, crepon or silk onto deep yoke,
as shown in our picture. The sleeves are
plated, divided into two puffs and a
ruftie, which are held up by tapes sewed
underneath. The yoke is bordered with
passementerie. Or this bodice will be
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

Wickwire: ''You seem to be in trouble,
Lushforth.
Jaggs Lushforth: al yam. I've only
got 81 left, an if spend it for hack fare
IN be too sober to enjoy my sleep, an ,
'fblow it for booze I'll be too full to
walk home. Oh, it's awful '-Iadiqn-
qpOLis journal.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
THE CApnCHIN

The capuchin hood. which is the only
cloak hood with any power of service in
it, ought to be on all storm cloaks. and
or woman's garment it should be large
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
Couldn't Break Up Old Habits

ssWell, 'Rastus, are you used to being
rich yet?'' ssNor, sab. KANT get used
to it, sab, Lor' bless yer! I went out in
to nah own hencoop larst night an stole
one o. nah own chickens, sab" -
Hdrper's Bazaar.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
A Good Little Rnv.

Mother: ''You naughty boyI You've
been fghting.' Little son: Nom. y
elbow did your clothes get torn and your
face get scratched?" I was tryin' to keep
bad boy from hurting good little boy.5
s'That was noble. Who was the good
little boy?'' Me. GOOD Necs.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

cloak or cape, to which should be added
a skirt OF the waterproof, which could be
worn without another skirt under it. or,
if over another skirt, the two fitting to-
gether can be easily lifted together. The
cloak should have a capuchin hood.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
Ton-storx Kitchens

The plan OF building houses with kitch-
ems at the top, however, advantageous it
may be in keeping unsavory doors from
the rest OF the house, is not likely to be-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
SKATING DRESS
STORM CLoAKs.

It is no reason for neglecting stormy
weather dress that luxurious women of
fashion do not go out in storms and do
not provide for them in their wardrobes.
Such women would, fancy, if they could
realize that there is an exhilaration in
breathing rough weather, well calculated
to relieve enui 1t would be hard, per-
haps. to persuade many women who have
tried it that there is a pleasurable sensa-
ton in walking in the rain. But then
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22

effective carried out in medium tint of
light blue, not pale blue, but vivid,
purplish. light blue nuns yelling with
the yoke embroidered in Russian cross
stitch with red aud black.
To make such a blouse there should
be yoke lining, and for cold weather
this should reach down as far as the belt.
The loose plated part is attached to it at
the yoke line only, it being confined at
the waist with q rubber or drawing
string. To secure a chic profile to such a
blouse when there is no yoke it Is neces-
sary still to sew the outside to the lining
at the yoke line, which should be below
the armehole, as the back especially
should be smooth across the shoulders
The stitches can be covered with a cord or
band of trimming. Then, being close
round the bust, let it perk out little at
bottom where it f1anges over the belt, and
complete the effect with rosette at the
back of the collar band, or if you fold
ribbon or velvet round for a band, fasten
the band at the back and make ruffle at
one end, to stand out like a comb, and
see if you do not find yourself bewitching.
SKATING DRESS.
Skating dresses should set close to the
figure, SO as to offer the least possible re-
sistance to rapid movement; should be
warm and decorative. Our drawing an
swers very well these requirements. 1t
shows a fashionable costume for this
snort. made of dark red cloth taimmed
with black velvet and black astrakan
The jacket is of astrakan and the sleeves
are velvet drawn down into close, warm
cuffs of the fur. The pretty bonnet with
its velvet wings is quite in sympathy with
the occasion.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
SOME NEW IDEAS,


SOME NEW IDEAS.
Exclusive fashionables are partial to
black for the street. These black COS
tunes are enlivened with prints of color.
Formerly the touch of color was added at
the throat, but the modish black dress of
today has its color markings elsewhere.
1t may be In bands on the skirt, in yoke
and sleeve tops, nesting in a frill round
the neck, touch in the hat, a trace in the
velvet muff. Lady Taibot's gown of
black cloth trimmed with green velvet
described recently by me is a good model
IN this particular. Velvet for these color
markings is used above everything. and
the favorlte hues are green and mauve.
Box-plalted velvet neck ruches that are
now faShionably worn with street dresss
carry well the color. Thus black dress
seen at picture reception has a black
velvet ruche around the neck, in which
nestle at intervals green velvet rosettes
like roses scattered through a wreath and
there is touch of green in the hat. An
other black dress with loose jacket and
double shoulder cape has the under cape.
which shows some two inches all the wav
round, of mauve velvet. Sets of tooue,
boa and muff of colored velvet are fash
ionable. / have seen one that transform
ed q black dress into a lively and pretty
theatre costume. It was of pale mauve
velvet, snot with green. The toque had
the velvet laid on in irregular folds, such
as an amateur could easily compass. 1t
was trimmed with several mink tails. two
OF them wired and standing upright, and
a rhinestone buckle. The muff wa in
two soft puffs running round, with
double ruffle at the ends, and the seams
covered with mink tails. The boa also
had mink tails in the seam. have seen
decoletle gown at the opera of black
with the exception of wide folded belt of
light gray. By folded belt mean one
which the cloth, usually bias, is drawn
around in irregular plaits or gathers and
is fitted to the figure.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
A MoDIsH STREET GOWN,

Horizontal skirt trimmings mount
higher and higher. To remodel an old
sheath skirt of last season, to give it the
appearance of width now required, the
easiest resort is several ruffles of velvet
set at wide intervals up the skirt. One of
1ur pictures shows a very modish gown
of dark tan cloth trimmed with MANY
rows of brown velvet. The same model /
have seen carried out in dark aubergine
red serge, with band. of black silk pip
ings. This little cap .an be made longer
and supplementary snoulder cape added
that is some ten inches wide and is plated
Ii also should have the bands. II these
pipings make the dress fiange out
stiffiy, it is not an objection, as this effect
characteristics the style.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-01-22
NOTES.

(D An essay on the dramatic character Of
Sir John Falstaf by Maurice Morgan. Esq.
81 Characters Of Shakespeare's play by
William Hazlitt.
(3) On the character of Sir John Falstah
etc. j. 0. Halliwell, London. 1871.