Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1893-08-17

. ing part docs no. count in the measure, for
that j. arbitrary. Sometimes it is very
high and at other times not more than 70
give the necessary fullness TO make it set
we'll
The under portion should be three inches
narrower than the outside The measure
for width should bc taken around the wrist
and at he top ju-t where the seams join
A. v j. quitc lttlc trouble to measure
and diagram for a new pattern every time,
the clever drrssmakcr will draft one or two
good Sleeve models for long sim arm and
fur short, plump oue-aul Keep them al
ways ready where by a minutes work in
measuring fnr width and length any lady
can w fitted with i sleeve
Thr next thing is to cut for balloon sleeve,
which j. now IN it, various notifications
THE fayorite Ihis cln hc easily done by
following the main feature, OF the diagram
The pun can be ~ full or >cnnt rs the wcarvr
dt-r'- add Il II usually cut on the cross ot
ti' q ~, deep enough to reach the elbow.
and l~ gathered where the marks are. Il
can r. ~htrr,d Mt the top and the fullness
thereby turned downward or 1t can he ctit
trife higher and gathered in with the
lhiu. 1t i 2 % h.. ha-ted on the lining and
sewcl aal at'rrwari drawn upward anl
gathered and usiNtcd at the tup Of the sleeve
he front >.crvr seam can then be scwed and
thr sleeve finished Gff The outer seam
ehua4i have bc..n sywcd before The lower
arm portion should have had the outside
cut and firmly lnl-tod to the lining and
saved ~ wIth the whole. The wrists are
uow finished by a narrow piping ana are
faced with silk and the best drtssmakcr.
sprinkle a little violet or orris powder along
ia tho seam Where tile wrists are to far.
trihc and with all fine dresses an inter.
lining uf =" gan IS made at the wrists to Keep
them smooth.
Tie pun may be heightened from two TO
four inches and shirred directly in the mid
DIV, while the rest j. treated as for single
puff. Or it can be held in by a ribbon band
Alltlevariatious are suggested by the fash
Ion publications, and the drcasmaker can
develop them from the foundation model
The lrS of mutton sleeve being just now
very fashionable and very difficult to make,
CAr,ful diagram II given, which any lady
can follow who will draft the diagram on o
scale II an inch to oue-eighth Of an inch.
This !. very stylish sleeve and is we'll
adapted 10 all materials The sleeve Joins
only On one side. and all the fulIness comes
on the upper part The lining TO this-.i
lining II used cut just like the outside
and should br Of light texture.
The sleeves should be cut so that the line
marked straight j. so with the thread II
the goods Of which the sleeves are made j.
narrow, the seam must be made on the
cross, as the diagonal line must b. on the
true bias When cut and hasted carefully,
the plaits should he laid in as mark I'll and
firmly fastened and the two places marked
G brought together, - that B comes over
the three palts and thetw AS meet Then
the seam should be basted and sewed, when
the result will be real leg Of mutton
sleeve, like the diagram, aud the plain part
on the top allows Tor a bertha or bretelle
without throwing il out 0. shape
The slcey % evening dresses are all
modified balloon shape, but short, coming
in some cases quite To the elbow, but more
often finished off about four inches from the
seam, with a band over which the puff falls
The sleeve should be rounded up II inches
toward the inside to permit the puff to fall
outward well.
To sew the seams in sleeves both edges
should be neatly trimmed and overcast and
the seams stitched from the bottom upward.
The seams should then be opened, and il
woolen slightly moistened and pressed over
sleeve board.
10 sew the sleeve into the arm size re-
quires care lhere Is no liked rule, as each
person has different way of carrying the
arm, which brings the seam into different
position, and where it is feasible to have
the person try the sleeves on and pin the
seams into the right position it is best to
do 50 But the general rule to follow is to
have the back seam in the sleeve placed
half way between the back side form and
The shoulder seam and the front one in a di-
agonal line one inch back of the dart.
The shoulder seam should be turned for
ward and the sleeve basted in, beginning at
the back and going down under the arm
first, which brings whatever fullness thereis
easily to the top. II it is thin goods, mar
row tape can be sewed in with the seam, the
edge then trimmed and closely overcast,
but the sleeve seam should not be pressed.
OLIVE HARPER