The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1893-08-25
European Letter.
MILAN, Aug. 9. ,!

we nnally tore ourselves away from
Como. Left Cadenabbia this morning and
rode on the lake to Como, charming ride,
of course. Como is the spot where
cackled to make the waiter understand
wanted eggs, four years ago. l looked at
the restaurant and restrained myself in
wish to put my head in the door and cackle
and crow and see If was remembered.
We took slow train for Milano, thirty
miles away, paid As cents for the ride. We
went through part of Lombardy. Farm
ing here would make Michigan farmer
envious; they raise two crops year. We
saw corn ready to cut and by the side of 1t
a young crop just ready for cultiyating.
That Is what might be called ''snap" in
agriculture. We reached Milano at 2 p. m;
twas a boiling furnace, white houses,
white roads and a perpendicular sun, made
it almost too hot to live. We crawled to
our hotel and afterwards went to the ca
thedral. It's always cool in cathedrals.
A sort of spiritual homeopathy for warming
up cold heart suppose. We were just in
time for the vesper service. You may get
some idea of the size of the cathedral when
tell you that three priests were preaching
to three separate congregations of three to
five hundred each in different parts of the
building and though they were speaking
rapidly and loud they in no way interfered
with each other. Why, five hundred people In
here occupy relatively less space than twenty
five would in the Congregational church at
Owosso-they are simply lost in it. Soon
after our entrance the sermons were over
and all the people gathered in front of an
altar in the north transept and commenced
sort of responsive service. The priests
chanted and then the people Joined in with
them, sweet melOdiOus chant. Old and
young, rich and poor joined in the singing
and the effect was surprisingly pleasant to
listen to. Presently as l caught the air l
found myself humming an accompaniment
to devout tenor who sat behind me. We
kept it up for Ten or fifteen minutes with
| occasional change of key, both worshipping.
in his way, he as devout catholic ami as
a hereto, but still in Gods temple and far
from home. After this short service the
| bell called to yespers. A procession of
| about thirty priests and bishops filed in
| about the high altar and into the stalls be-
| hind; the choir took their places and the
service commenced. A clear, sweet voiced
singer chanted from one of the pulpits and
the chorus of priests replied, then the choir
from many swinging censors began to rise
| before the altar. 1t floated upwards in clouds
that half obscured the altar from view, and
then to farther spirtualze the scene sweet
tenor voice came waited to us as though
borne on the clouds of incense that now
filled the space about the choir and altar.
Then followed much more that did not
understand and finally the service ended in
a grand professional around the church,
the priest leading with large gilt cross,
four nuns following, then the choir, the
| priests and the congregation. AS they
passed affairs, chants, majors and minors
were sung that went mingling together in
the echoes of the vast cathedral. Twas a
very impressive and very beautiful service.
l wish some of my catholic friends might
have been with me and heard it. Even we
were glad to be there and listen to this SER
vice in one of the greatest churches in the
world. High in the arch Of the nave hangs
an immense cruciiX, hundred feet above
the people. AS the service continued the
rays of the declining sun shooting through
the stained glass windows crept gradually
over the figure on the cross It'll it was illu-
mined with halo of gorgeous colors. Then
shooting down the choir through the rising
incense, played fantastic tricks with the
images of old saints on the marble columns,
and the garments of live priests busy al
their devotions, and finally resting on the
marble floor brought out in strong relief the
| figure of a poor peasant woman kneel-
| ing on the pavement with her head bowed
low telling her beads in prayer, a singularly
beautiful representation of the typical
catholic religion. After service most of the
congregation dispersed but some few still
remained to pray. 1 recall now the figure
of signoreta kneeling before an altar, heI
face uptnrned, her hands clasped in hel
lap, her head partly covered with the usual
head dress of black lace that fell in graceful
folds about her shoulders. An actual real
ization of the figure so often seen in paint.
ings but more graceful, more beautiful than
| any artists brush could create.
These are little incidents that make travel
delightful. One soon tires of great buildings
or splendid art galleries and even mountains
may become little tiresome, particularly
if you are lame and sore and try to climb
them, but humanity as presented in strange
countries by strange people never loses its
| interest.
Our visit to Milan is simply a side eX-
cursion to pass away time while we are
resting. We will be in the Alps again by