New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-10-29

which make II fit smoothly over the hips II Is
trimmed with five stitched ruties. which are 50
scant as to be little more than folds. The cor
sage which has three darts in front IS buttoned
behind and has a plastron of stitched RULES or
folds.
There seems TO be epidemic Of black and white
in the shops. but its reign Is waning among the
elegantes as In Newport the combination has been
in vogue all summer
At Madame D-'s was seen the other day a
costume which was pretty and expensive II was
Of army blue cloth combined with black SATIN
three narrow rufiies OF the black satin were ar
ranged in deep points on the skirt-points seem 10
be the correct thing III skirt trimming. by the way
and the waist had black satin waistcoat when
crossed in a very intricate way the material
Of the long WASTED postllion jacket, and was fast
ened on either side with elongated bows, which gave
A very pretty. slender effect TO the figure. Long
WASTED gowns again in vogue with points ana
poston coattails; and the Louis XIV period Is 10
be essentially the style
Doucet is beginning to paniers and Worth
has way Of gathering the material up on the
hips and then letting it drop again an over
skirt making the wearer look in her pointed waist
like grande dame of the oldea time. Worth Is
also recommending belts made Of jet or gold, TO
buckle behind and IN front In "A point, with also "a
buckle either side. which confines the ribbon or
velvet used in a nice shape. He suggests also
that hats should be OF the Charlotte Corday shape,
or Henri " or Louis ".
Doucets waists are altogether unique in the way
he conceals the fastening which is made quite
invisible by means Of folds trimming. In fact.
his bodices really drapery instead Of the old
fashioned scanned affairs, for which he evidently
has no affection. Skirts are draped slashcd and
trimmed with fur rich trimming OF any kind
The many -gored skirt with satin pipngs at each
Is very becoming To slender figure.
Violet and black and turquoise blue and black,
two favoritc combinations this autumn.
A Doucet teagown Is one OF the principal chefs
d'ouvre of a modern fashionable rousseau. These
gowns are made principally of Liberty SILK ana
satins and velvets. and generally conform to some
picturesque period. Lcly's and Sir Joshua Itey-
nolds's portraits are generally taken for models.
M "a re "A
fusion OF lace. which is infinitely becoming. Happy
Is the bride that the sun shines on, exclaimed "A
pretty little mondaine. but | say Happy Is the
bride with a Doucct teagown""
1t Is very hard for "a conscientious woman TO nave
her closets filled with good clothes OF which she is
heartily tired. but which she feels she ought to
up in way the other before replenishng
her wardrobe she would like to do. Nothing
weighs upon my mind" said young married
woman the other day, like last seasons gowns.
which are perfectly good and which feel / ought
to utilize. but which am quite weary of. Every
a distinct reproach to me II ! do not use them and
yet how to do II is problem difhcut To solve. /
keep little notebook In which scratch down
suggestions which | pick up in my walks abroad.
chiffon sleeves 'Guipnre body for plaid velvet
BLACK satin cape and belt for long coat etc.
Needless to say, the ideas don't materalize salts
factorily. and ] am in despair; and In the end md !
If / could only afford to give them all
away and buy a complete outfit: how happy i
should be- What should ] have Wei. FIRST or all.
and heotrope are the rage Just now a walking.
dress Of mixed material silk skirt. waist
and short velvet basque. made quite full. and
standing we'll out the hips: two evening dresses