The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1893-01-05


mercial centers Of the world is 18th century
enigma.
have met travellers who have been all the
way from the Black Sea to the Baltic and the
Atlantic, and they say that in Spain is to be
found more of that picturesqueness and color
local than any other place throughout their
travels.
great deal of this picturesqueness is to be
seen even in the larger commercial cities, which
are themselves backward enough. Yet even
here, as everywhere, it is in the isolated dis
tricts that the hunter after the picturesque
finds his richest feld there. where the people
have hardly yet learned that this is an age of
progress; where such names as newspapers,
electricity, etc, have scarcely entered into the
local vocabulary.
If some of the inhabitants of these districts
were to be transported instantaneously to such
q city as London, Paris, or New York, they
would surely believe they had been translated
TO another sphere. To then al least, it would
be new world and new life that would meet
their gaze,
There are number Of railways in Spain, and
they are slowly increasing. These connect the
principal cities. Yet Spain is good-sized
country and needs great many more. There
are still many towns of from 10000 to 10000
that have 10 railway communication; also
large sized districts across which no railway
as yet runs. Across these the mail is carried
BIZ diligences. 1t is not usually very heavy,
for by far the larger portion is able neither to
read nor write. Yet the Government main
tains daily mail.
They haul immense loads over the wretched
roads, drawn by strings Of mules from five to
seven TO a cart
In order TO see just how the real, original
Spaniards live and have lived, have taken
several trips across country off the lines of rail-
way. The means of travelling have been by
mail diligences behind the tough, steady but
somewhat capricions nondescript-the Spanish
mule. As result / have not been disap-
pointed in my search.
Travellers usually pursue beaten tracks, and
in doing so miss a great treat Yet on the
other hand, they avoid great deal of discomfort
which must be endured on such trip These
people are not particular as to little dirt
Pigs, chickens and donkeys are members Of
the household. And even small geological in
sects, with which all are familiar by name, at
least, II not by experience,-are seldom objected
TO- SO, on the whole, the traveller must rough
ii and take all things good-naturedly. Pat the
donkey on the head, make the pig feel that
you are friend, and you are sure Of royal
welcome to the best the house affords Never
lock disguised, for by doing SO you lose the re-
epect of the driver, whom you must retain as a
friend
ter, Mass. We took a one-horse railway which
ran across country IS or 100 miles and then
came TO a sudden stop at town in the midst of
sonc hills. There is only one train day on the
road, which is mixed one, runs at night, and
creeps along at miserable pace. We found a
fairly decent hotel and settled there for two or
three days
For real picturesqueness have seen nothing
to surpass it. 1t is also an epitome of the his
tory Of Spain. Its massive gates, houses deco
rated with coats-of arms and other remains
bespeak Of might past. The crumbling walls,
tumble-down houses, and general air of neglect
arc only too plain evidences of its sunken con.
dition. IL is a good specimen of the Spanish
towns, and will bear further description.
Cucnca is in CASTLE, The home of the pure,
proud Spaniard, who boasts his superiority
over the mixed population composing the rest
Of Spain. The situation is well chosen, like
that Of most medieval towns. Situated on the
slopes of q hill. its rows of houses rise one
sboFe another like seats in sn ampithester.