The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1893-04-30
THE WOMAN OF FASHION
FADS NUMBERLEsS HAS THE So
CIETY LEADER.
The Revival of the Black Craxe-Growth of
tho Silk One and Few Others-New
Gowns That Bring Them Out.

Fads. did you say? Yes. we have Just
few at present. We are trying to cut
down their number, but there are a
great many that have refused to go.
There is, Of course, the purple fad;
there's the soft silk fad the lace fad. the
black fad, the fad for gathers and puck
ers, the one for ribbons and ruffies, the
fad for flares and berthes and bretelles,
the fad for tiny nothings on the head;
and host of others. Some of the fads
are OF more recent birth than others.
For instance, the black fad has scarcely
drawn breath, and is but slowly gaining
strength. That its growth is certain,
however, is assured by the curious and
excited group that stood in Madame s
parors the other morning, studying
some new black gowns that she had Just
brought forth. That those DANES liked
the gowns, you could tell at once from
their faces. How infinitely they exam
ined them, and how carefully and dis
criminatingly they marked their merits
Madame had no need TO point out their
departures, for the women took them
In at a glance. They were quite as well
informed upon the subject as was
Madame.
Black has ceased altogether to be the
somber, doeful material that it once was,
Now that all the fine goods are sprinkled
or dotted with fancy designs in silk,
their dullness is departed, and they are
often as brilliant as the costume in
colors. one Of these gowns, made Of one
Of these silk-dotted materials, had
skirt that was prettly trimmed with
double ruhies, each ruffie headed with
lace insertion laid over pale heliotrope.
A very short shoulder cape fell over the
bodice-a cape made of black braid work,
very open.
Another black was run with long silk
lines, very loose, and had for skirt trim
ming. which is, after all, the most i'm
portant part OF gown, satin diagonal
bands laid each side of narrow white In
sertion There were four OF these ar
rangements. which brought the trimming
up above the knees. With this costume
went a small lace cape, heavily weighted
with jet.
A heavy ottoman silk had three double
rufries of the same material. and above
each rufIie were three diagonal folds OF
silk. also. This bodice had deep bre-
teles, edged with Jet.
The gowns were certainly refreshing.
after the wealth OF color which mad
greeted our eyes on every hand OF late.
They had rich conservative air about
them. which the brighter dresses lacked.
and the dignified maker Of gowns, as
she stood by them, added to the quiet
and inviting effect. yes, we are making
a great many black gowns" / heard
her say az | pressed forward little to
catch her words. THE brilliant and eX-
travagant combinations OF color are be-
coming so obnoxious to the women or
taste that we shall largely discard all
tints and make gowns rather subdued,
Until this rage for color Is somewhat
spent"
II now remains to be seen whether
the great army OF American women will
follow in the footsteps OF the few lead
ers It is probable that they will not.
And yet so capricious are they that they
may, in one instant, discard all their
glow and warmth OF color and array
themselves just as demurely and unob-
trusively as the upper ten.
The lace fad Is not unworthy OF at
tention. II grows, and that not slowly.
But OF course this is the time for lace.
and we are not surprised to see 1t in
trimmings, epaulette. in insertion and
rufile, in mantle and bonnet. The nets
grow in favor also Some Of the black
gowns had little headings Of net above
the rufles Point desprit net is very
popular for loose over-sleeves and trim
ming in general.
The fad for gathers is very pronounced.
One sees no more tlght-htting closely
drawn bodices. and the talor-made gown
is almost a thing OF the past. Even
the great trunks that will go to Chicago
contain few of these gowns. The tray
cling gown is to be more comfortable.
The gathered bodices are everywhere
in the street dress, the evening bodice.
and in the loose waist to be thrown of
and on az will; in the maiden's dress,
In the dress for very young girls, in the
dress for matrons
The fad for ruffles is important II Is
exemplihed in this charming summer
gown. which is TO be worn at an early
garden party The material is dainty,
Towering silk, and the skirt composes It
self OF three full ruffies each rufiie edged