davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
BRIGHT GIRL Students
They Whipped Out the Boys In the Horti-
cultural College Exnu,iu ationn.

cultural College Ex.mip ations.
The trhimphs of women over the men
students OF the horticultural College recently
established In England attest their ability to
grasp the practical side OF scientific subjects.
Two out OF three diplomas conferred at the
first years examinations were gained by two
sisters. and this year one young woman has
wrcsted the diploma from iorty-two rivals OF
the sterner sex. and each lady finds an advan-
tageous post awaiting her as soon as she
graduates The professors of the college speak
very highly OF the refining and wholesome In
luenco the women have over the men by work
ing with them. and never Sinking the rouRher
work. 1t Is now deem oil Advisable to establish
a fund for scholarship for women.
cupation for women 10 not more important
than the benefit gained by the bracing effect
uss snd the
tonlo medicine when Is constantly IN do.
with ipnumerable little cares tina, they cannot
means Of re!isf for Tho '' prevailing " com.
S S = IL .s s; $s~.>s &c ss
pesransS p f lew i mouths q thi. rustic work
marked That il ms been suggested at tho col:
nss may tns Strain
demanded Is said not to he too heavy. and one
physician contempiates starting market gar
den Tor tho benefit OF nervous women.
The statement that women far surpass the
mon In difficult examinations necessary be-
fore q horticultural diploma can be gained
will hardly be credited by the opposite sex.
Still one Of the professors encouraginRly adds
that they might equal them II they were only
aea but NTH hsarinS fully they
Ing to others. 50 very little attention is paid to
their studio For all time women have been
accused OF never allowing man to get in o
word edReways," and no end OF rdicule and
sarcasm has been hurled at them for tho glib
case on record where they have distinguished
themselves by significant silence and superior
application to business
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
THE FRILLs AND FREAKS OF FASHION.

The gowns and costumes OF royalty arc
always interesting. A London paper describes
a dinner dress made for the Princess OF Wales.
The material was white faile finely striped
with black. and on the skirt were three fiounces
| Of Chantilly lace shrred over fiounces Of white
| chiffon. Tho waist. cut low. had full elbow
| sleeves OF silk finished with "sabot" rufies OF
lace over chiffon. and a Marie Antoinette 1chu
OF diaphanous material GRACEFUL draped back
and front. and held in at the waist by a cein-
ture OF pearl white satin fastened at tho side
with q large rosette.
1t appears from the remarks In foreign
paper on dress at the royal garden party
that women have mastered the art OF dress
ing without any OF the Grotesque exaggeration
regent date. This party was the nost artist
caily dressed daytime affair Of the whole sea-
s35. There we're no yolumtnous skirts: no
Of the dress was the flchu OF silk muslin. chif-
fon. and lace. Ono worn with blue and white
with triple frills OF accordion plated chiffon.
garden party dress for the Queen OF Dem
mark was OF buttercup silk en- crepon scat
tered with satin dots. The skirt was tight 1T
ting to below the hips. whence deep founce
to @atsS to tho e anS Is S
waist is simply shirred back and front f tied led
with yellow satin ribbon at the waist and
neck. and adorned with belero Jacket Of lace.
At the university match between Oxford and
Cam bridge pretty gowns were a noticeable
feature OF the entertainment. and never he
fore has there been SO fne display of clothes
at this match. Black and blue was the fayorite
variety Of green ~irrespectiye Of compiexion as
sssn. IN; cd isn nSa Sss
lace standing erect at the back.
Quite the latest fad in stationery Is tawny
orange In color. which is called gold Of
India" and on this the truly fashionable wo-
sreenery.ysiiowy continuation has nothing" to
with ladies OF artistic taste.
The latest tea gowns have the bodice drapsd
and crossed over at the waist with y-shaped
vest Of contrasting color. A pretty effect may
BIZ ss wG sSps nE n sep win ss
tuunees OF pink ON the sleeves to the elbow.
from the neck to the hem
Moire antique. not watered silk. will be the
feature OF next winters styles. Tho latest
capss are already made Of this handsome ma
tsrial. trim m ell with Italian or Flemish lace,
and lined throughout with white satin. In true
Partisan elegance.
The return OF the Victorian .ooiffure is an
other abomination lowering in tho air. and
many OF the Partisan actresses are already
wearing their hair drawn down over tho eyes.
The description of q gown OF ideas. rather
than beauty. worn by Nine Patti at Albert
Hall In London. may be interesting as an evil
denee OF poor taste. 1t had no PARTICULAR
STYLE and was made Of white satin and pale
blue brocade. The skirt was a double one.
tho under part being OF white satin with three
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
now Fashions ARE MADE
History OF the Origin and Rise OF the shirt
WmIst-Mnnnish Costnmes.

| History OF the Origin and Rise OF the Shirt
| Wnist-Mnnnish Costumes.
Here IL a piece OF hist DRY which will be o
| intcrestto every woman. 1t was Cleaned from q
prominent wonan's tailor Of this city. and
might he called " The Rise OF the Shirt Waist. "
Probably every woman will pray that no post
| script need ever be added to record the do
cline OF that boon to feminine humanity. Nine
years ago. according to the historian. the shirt
waist for women was unknown. At that time
Miss Jane Nelson was living quietly In
Gramercy Park. without thought OF the part
she was destined to play In the emancipation
OF her sex. One day Mr.. Richard Osborne. to
whom Miss Nelson was encagedto be married.
was walking with her when he spled his tall
or's sign across the street. and the idea oc-
Cured to him that no ought to go in and leave
his order for some n6gliRe shirts.
Accordingly he and Miss Nelson went over to
the shop and selected the materials. Then 1t
was that great and luminous idea shone In
the mind OF the tailor. He suggested to the
young lady that she would be much more COM
Portable II she. too. had loose. cool waist. and
the young lady agreed that she would.
The measure was taken forthwith. and tho
construction Of the first lady's shirt waist was
begun. At least dozen attempts were made
before the difficulties Of fitting were overcome.
At length Miss Nelson struck envy to the souls
OF her friends by appearing in her new shirt
waist. in which she fairly luxuriated before
their envious eyes She did not retain her
lonely eminence OF comfort very long. however.
and this season tho snmo tailor who then
made the one waist for Miss Nelson hos mnde
6.O0o waists. and Is still at work. or course.
that is a mere drop in the bucket compared
with the millions which are sold in the stores.
Not long after the evolution Of tho shirt
~nia ha toil f,,rp icht
outfits for the Columbia students whom o SEQ
ond brilliant idea came to him. He suggested
to certain Mr.. Lee that pretty Rirl and
stunning blazer would not be bad combina-
case in that light to his friend Miss jackson.
and GuPs out in tho
These successes opened the way to what has
o IL
" tbs Op sen SS arsss
tSs%$Ss SI;s look well in gown
:. ,",she would" replied the gallant husband.
e1 Ss9f tn: ;s st B ss
the resemblance to the mans suit was. to be
fn5rsa S a4s no s. G gSB d Ra
Sammer BACK. A white xaistecat and 7 White White
for time.
Mrs. Burke Roche and Mrs. Hewitt enjoy
the distinction OF introd ucing the frock coat as
. part. OF the feminine wardrobe, The coats |
made for them were modelled directly after |
the pictures sh9wn IL the fashion plate 70.
and cnn wear such garment with flne effect. |
Linen ruling habits for ladies' were ,first |
amateur circus when Mrs. Duncan Elliott |
Mrs: Adolph Ladenburg. and Miss Carey. |
these gowns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

and seaweed. A smaller cake given to the
monogram Of the bride bird and groom " in pale
blue and pink mounted on White satin and
pumes Among tho flowers In the decorations
were Mey blossoms. orange blossoms. and
Tho clown sleeve. which is much newer than
tho bullying style OF the early season. is COM
shoulder The pulled sleeve is diminishing
upward. and every fresh touch Of fashion re-
veals little more OF the tight underseeve.
Although hats are worn by young girls. bon
nets are in tho majority where ceremony Of
attire Is required.
Colored shoes are more In favor than ever for
house wear. but black Oxford ties are tho only
low shoes permissible in the street. while
suede is the newest thing IN white shoes. and
white sue 10 or tan. Rcd morocco shoes are
fashionable for piazza wear.
Lace braces tasselled with jet are used on
evening dress as we'll as walking costumes.
u. A 4 popular fabric fer canes and rufles Is
Russian net.
Silk bodices in Paisley designs are coming
into favor. and are very effective with braces
OF lace over the shoulders.
The newest idea in hats is the sunburnt
color. and white satin ribbon and Mercury
wings are used for trimming.
An easy way Of making lace trimming dis
tinct from the dress. to slip on as required, is
simple yoke OF piece lace with six inch ede-
Ing fulled around 1t and lace collar to fir ish
the neck. or a Spanish jacket of lace with q
deep turu-down frill all around the top.
The May blossom Is not to be any longer as
ISOLATED with the Princess Mays name She
has adopted the white rose OF York as her
en- blem. One Of the first gifts Of the Dule az
York to his bride was a brilliant white rose OF
diamonds with raised leaves.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
PRoTEGES OF FORKS BRIDE
Sho Will Not Hesitate to Boom Fairs I
Get Help for THIN.

Sho Will Not Hesitate to Boom Fairs to
Get Help for THIN.
The story below of the recently welded
Princess Mary might prejudice people in her
favor. and then again 1t might not One might
almost infer that the royal phi!anthropist In
guilty OF that well-nigh objectionable sin
against etiquette and good nature-social beg
Ring. Bazaars and fairs are generally accept
ed ground for this sort OF thing. but, accord
ing to tho writer OF the following. Princess
Mary was always at hand. Tin country house
or at home" with some plea for hor proteges:
"0nce the ice is broken. her easy way Of con-
versing and expression OF interest soon puts o
stranger at ease. and II tho conversation flaRs,
1t Is certainly not the fault Of the Princess.
She can. OF course. talk about the weather. tho
last dance. and tho general run Of drawing
room gossip. II such things please her guests.
But 1t Is In her general work and in her moth
er's work that she is really interested. In
The House Of Lords Sweating committse WAS was
ses he ssad h f the p saa
"a. 4!tSsoaES = sood listener: Princess Mary
ment She seldom discusses q charity scheme
whether It BE- in a county, house or at home. Il
the opportunity offers, the wants and wishes
the result Is generally a check OF promise.
order and regula rity are with her prtnci-
Pies Of life-never is anything out Of place.
ttmo for getting up in tho morning. and. whom
possible, q time for, retiring to rest at night.
and being read to. In her boudoir you will
Ind the books properly classified, Pens and
pencils are neatly arranged on the writing
hing. and everything Is In It's place"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

small pieces Of 1ne linen. which they sell
cheap and then. having established relations
with thoir customers. they take orders for
gowns, jewelry. and silver. They mako large
profits. and would seem to have found new
avenue Of employment
Mrs. George William Curtis has established
| a free scholarship fund in memory Of her hus-
| band In the Staten Island Academy. 1t 10 the
proceeds OF tho edition OF "Prue and l." pub.
lished last Christmas.
Mrs. Arthur Stannard has resumed the edi-
torship OF Winters Weekly. which was founded
by her nearly three years ago. Another we'll
| known English woman editor Ia the Countess
| Of Aberdeen who. with her daughter. Lady
Marjorie Gordon. edits the ohlld's paper. Wee
Willie Winkte.
| The new factory inspection law Of Pennsyl-
| vania requires that OF the deputy inspectors
| i've shall be women. They receive o salary Of
| $1,000 year.
In the last year 400 patents have been ap-
| piled for in England by women. Some OF those
have reference to textile manufactures and
electrical and railway appliances. and articles
for tho use Of the sick have also received con-
siderable attention.
Miss Edith Darlington has written book
called Workers Without Wage. dealing with
all kinds Of animals. including tho earwig.
She has been asked by the English Society for
the Prevention Of Cruelty to Animals to write
another book. which the society will publish
officially.
A pretty story is told Of the widow OF tho
great Schumann. Whenever she is going to
play any Of her husbands music In public she
reads over some Of the old love letters that no
wrote her during the days Of their courtship
an In ha We ah ho hiatt ahl
to do Justice to her interpretations Of the spirit
Of his work"
Fern doylies" are made Of lace bark. q
diaphanous. lace-like material found under
the bark Of certain Jamaica trees. This 10
bordered with o set pattern cut out Of tho
brown cabbage plant The doylies are not
only unique and beautiful but also serve 40
promoters" OF conversation by leading the
talk to foreign lands and quaint fancies.
There seems to be no lack Of openings for
female medical practitioners in this country,
for the Indian Bureau announces seventeen
vacancies for women.
Ouida has uttsrsd another plea in defence OF
her favorites-animals. 1t is called Tho New
Priesthood" and is protest against cruelty
to animals. and especially against vivisection.
Walter Bssant who has Just crossed the
oooon' eno tueIeioro ouRnt 20 Dc An eutnoflIy
on the subject, says: "Nexttime dear madam,
that you are seasick place o piece Of ice In
your mouth. and keep It there. When it 10
gone take another piece. After that Lie down
and 60 to sleep in peace"
Brooklyn possesses ono Of tho youngest
editors in the world. She 10 o little ten-ysar-
old girl. who brings out every week the Pick-
toick Papers. written entirely BY herself It
contains department labelled "Jests." Q
unique advertising column. fashion depart
ment. q society budget poets corner. and
story There 10 q range Of versatility In this
which Is denied to most genIuses.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

forming In the Crystal Palace. They have
made a three months visit to Paris. and were
visited by 100000 persons. They are subjects
OF Behanzin. King OF Dahomey. and belong to
the famous regiments called the Alligator"
and the Elephant" which formed his body
guard. and showed such valor In com bats with
the French under Gen. Dodds Some Of them
then In battle.
They are forty eight In number. averaging
from IL to 20 years Of age. and are under the
eGo %nmm.d q tai young negroes. named
tary precision. She is accompanied by two
younger sisters as officers. They are not so
tall, but are among the best looking girls OF
the troupe, They all seem amjabls and happy.
but 1t Is said that they would not cont eddy
follow their Interpreter. Mr.. Hood. were It not
accompany them.
The girl soldiers have their curly wool close
ly cropped and are scrupulously clean. They
al hattie regularly, drink only tea and 1.-Two
and this gives them asplendd physique. They
are as atrohs a1h rs active a. young leopsrds,
the eye Of the drill sergeant, Their legs are
naked to tho knees and are we'll shaped. How
thsr aan m9rch through Q rough country. In
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

In evening dresses there Is a radical change
N the sleeves. The large. full pufYs are gradu.
auy disappearing, and In their place is bell
shaped sleeve made OF frlls lined with def
lite color; In fact. all sleeves are becoming
less pretentious and In very little time the
grotesoue and aggressive hump on tho ton
OF the shoulder will subside altogether.
weddings are among the few things in life
.-hieh ever hold their own and mover 20 out of
fashion except In the trifilng details Of csre-
moay and manner of dress, SO tho little brides.
maid In the large sketch may be as an attrao.
tive feature OF fashion as her more slaborately
eostumsd eldera The dainty little dress
u OF white crepe dc sole trim med with white
sDk lace. The hat IL Of white lace adorned
With white plumes and white satin ribbon.
A very chic gown from a famous firm In
Paris II OF ivory foulard dotted with dark
green. The waist has collar band. cuffs and
basque OF green. black. and cream embroid-
cry. and finely plated plastron OF orea m
satin enframed by collar and point OF ecru
Irish Guipura The epaulets are OF dotted
foulard. Tho bust and waist arc crcled with
two bands OF black satin. This is an sxcesd-
tngly stylish dress and quite original In the
design OF the bodice.
suitable style for any soft material has a
butterfly cape effect and tho usual large
sleeves. The special feature OF the third cut
u the long Achu Of pale mauye India orepe,
with fr1l Of i--A ALI around tho border and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
WHEN WOMAN WILLIE,

The PIucky Fight Mrs. Barr. tho Novelist.
Made-lts Inspiration and Reward.
Up at Cornwall on the Hudson. not far
from Poughkeepsie lives an interesting wo-
man. She is Amelia Barr. the novelist Eng
lish by birth. Scotch. as 1t were. by mar
rage and American by virtue OF long resi-.
dence. Mrs. Barr has had a close insight into
the lives and the characteristics OF many
people When she first came to America she
lived In Galveston. That city was not the
metropolitan affair then that 1t is now. In
deed. there were few Indians left on the
island. These often prowled around Mr.. Bars
house. drawn thither by the voice of the young
wife singing her husband 8 favorite ballads
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

In 1867 this idyllic life was cut short The
yellow fever RACED In Texas The whites fed
before the scourge. but the Indians stayed.
and Mr.. Barr stayed. too. because he could
help them. They trusted him. and would take
medicine from his hand when they would not
touch 1t otherwise. But he gave his life in the
effort. Before the pestilence ceased Mrs Barr
had lost her husband and three sons. She had
three daughters left but no means OF support
Ing them. She was 35 years old. had passed
from affiuence to poverty. and was far beyond
the age for training oneself to work. She do.
cidsa to nd ;i ltvslIh9od II Literary Dursu
became Interested IL the brsys liftls Woman
drudgery which most successful writers 90
through at much earlier age Mrs: Barr
verses anything and svsrsthisgp shh She sppent
literature as az Graft and getting materials for
poverty. When she had p lew paper dollars
its yellow losyes and tsrni.hsI Clasps, stiii
lies on Mrs. Barr,s table. One night thieves
ssskf hand: p% 'f ss vent I Ss
taking the trink cts It contained. but the Billie
ThSa y T. s6 and S Shick was
ts nSs sa hss sssS
when Mira Bars rst serial story snss spSeared e
and when Jan Vsddsr's Wife" came out the
t mast Of fortune r wss distinctly rT nTs
i9F annecdote; 4 hrm onee engaged to pay her
cept Of tho manuscript. Tho novel was
T promptly delivered, The cash wes not The
Barn. s% S %so Believe. fer s delay iaH /. M ssr
gain" granted tho delay on condition that the
n q pay her ] PER cent for the loan OF the
publishers, but they agreed. and Mira Barr
continues on the most friendly terms with the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
TIL AMIZON WARRIORx

Having Fought the French Periodically .
Company Comes to Paris on show.
Last week The Sun contained an account Of
an English girl who wants her sister women to
organize military companies to demonstrate
how brave and altogether deserving OF indie.
pendence they are. This doughty lady must
be highly interested in the troupe Of female
warriors from Dahomey who have been Der.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
FICHU AND COLLAR.

Pretty to Look Upon, hut Not Especially
Usefhi-How They Are Made.
Fashion has been very generous toward the
matron as we'll as the maiden this year. in
providing innumsrable little wraps. fchus.
and collars. which add very little warmth and
very pretty effect to the costume The
dainty combinations Of lace and jet ribbon
and chiffon. form effective tribes which quite
transform plain gown into dressy toilet.
The styles continue to vary . little in shape
and trimming. but everything. from the de-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

Ing rosettes at both ends.
a. new idea for the early fall II n cape made
81 the same material ss tho dress, and shaped
ALL pointed back and front. the single point
reaching Just below tho waist.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

For those who prefer a more sober Kind Of
elegance there Is black Tuscan straw. similar
IN shape. trimmed with black ostrich feathers
place
Tho poke bonnetS which. In the early season.
made futile attem ri to In ssrt themselves into
Iavor. are not popular or likely to become 80.
every face
insects are favored for trimming. and some
luttered into tho hair to rest for a moment
Ths milliners have original WAYS of using
wings algrettes- and plaltin9s OF lace.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

The Elton jacket next rose. and how It has
fourished! Now we have the three.button
GGutaTay. which is the swell thing at present
But the very latest thing. in fact only one has
been made as vet. is what Is to be called the
ADMIRAL Jacket 1t 10 in imitation Of .
one which has been Completed is OF white
duck. 1t fastens straight up the front. clear
to the neck. the buttons being concealed by q
row OF wide white braid in the middle and a
strip Of narrow braid on each side These
the bottom. and along the seams. The narrow
tho ends with loops
Another fad Is the hip pocket for keys. A
button r. sewed on the belt the regulation
chain alta ched and the keys at the other end
slipped into milady's hip pocket.
IL tho movement toward the masculine STYLE
OF dress continues tho dress ref0rmers will be
Obliged to go hide their diminished heads.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

Kate Douglas WiGGin 10 in England, whore
she has boon received with much attention.
Lady Caithness gave a ball in Paris, when
supper was served ut o'clock in tho morning.
A straw hat. plated entirely by Queen Vic.
toria, has been sent to Chicago for exhibition.
The Duche OF York has taken q university
extension course In Elizabethan literature.
Mrs. Challoner. the widow and tho sister of
well known horse Jockeys. Is said to be the
only woman who trains race horses.
Princess Louise. In the studies that have re-.
suited In the production OF tho Queens statue
at Kensington. had tho assistance OF Miss Hem
rietta Montslba. talented Canadian woman.
Tho Empress OF Austria when she travels In
cognita. uses indifrerenty tho three following
names: "Mme. de Toina." Mime Nichol-
son" and Miss Simpson"
Lady Carlisle Is training an entire stan OF
women gardeners. who. she hopes. will keen
tho grounds OF her Yorkshire home in as per-
feet condition as their male predecessors
have done.
Mrs. Mary Ranlett has built UP an extensive
business In sailors shipping offieo She fur.
nishes seamen In any desired number.
Nine Modjeska carries in Henry VIII" n
handkerchief which Is said to have been the
property OF Queen Isabella. The handkerchief
Is ono OF the rarest pieces Of old Spanish lace
IN existence
In houmania there are women who ara
modified commercial travellers. They do not
deal with merchants. but with families. making
@ specially OF supplying trousseaux and similar
outhts- They are from Paris. and carry ouite
large stocks with them. They begin with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23

A unique reception dress described in for
eign paper has black satin skirt and low
bodice OF pale green crepe de chine. draped
around the figure and tied In o bow ct the
back. and over tho shoulders OF this fall
braces Of lace. with long jet tassels dangling
almost to the hips. The sleeves OF pale green
aro OF angel" shape. which shows the arm.