New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-11-19

,or1 ,ous ard give TO the whole a festive appear
ance Peasants journey hither from all pai's ..
the country. bringing with them curious DIS Vi
carving and odd nieces Of tinware. stone jugs. eggs
etc Tho souare is crowded from morning XII
night with peasant women in short red pe''eo'''
and inseI-hedccked headgear. ana fat housewives
who bargain as sharply as the vendors themselves
In one corner Is a shril-voiced woman s'''sis
some ballad; a crier ringing MS pen, " =,
through the throng; noisy geese ana mems ""'
squealing pigs add TO the din until IL becomes po'
lively deafening: while fat bare-footed friars SUM
ter around inspecting everything ana pun 0"a' 80,
naurht SaIzburg is transformed into Vertaoe
tower of Babel where each peasant chat'ers away
in his dialect explaining ms mea''''e ~ "
quent and expressive gestures.
Salzburg offers no vivid historical "reminiscences "
the tourist who finds its chief attraction In the
beauty of its environs Doubtless the QUAINT "ou'
and crooked streets curious ana ih'e'e
but they call TO mind none of the countless suus
giles which have taken place here between pS"op
and baron or peasant. The people OF "di"o'' q, .
and always have been essentially peaeeiu' iea''
70 defend themselves when forced to arms. but
rarely IL ever opening hostilities; ana the ""'e'
of war were rapidly effaced by their thirty en-
dcayors The ancient fortress OF Hohen SAVIOUR
Is the sole reminder OF those occurrences i'S
massive gabled stone walls and enlarged pat''e
ments crown the wooded slopes OF the ap'"P' '
tie hill rising far above the city. until It's many
turretS lost In the SKY. fi"rt tH' "''"'"'>N
resided from the time Of its erection until the SIX"
teenth century when the chateau OF Hellbrunn was
completed The superstitious peasantry believe inc
deep window recesses of the lofty princes cham'
bers to be haunted BY the souls or those WIN
lightly exchanged vows of love and as hsh'y
broke them at that court of love which the arc"-
dukes so long assembled there. The old chapel OF
St George in the courtyard. despite the many
centuries which have passed over it. shows niue
signs of the ravages time has elsewhere erected
The sun was streaming through the staineh-eaS'
windows as we entered, Illuminating the maroe
floors and gh-backed pews. while to the right anu
left stood the red marble statues OF the Apostles
In silent watch over the church. As we stooh VI"
the extensive battlements heard the ringing
Of the ancient chimes from the town far below us
In the distance the Salzach. that broad ana piacio
river dividing the city In two distinct quarters
lined on either bank with well-paved quays shaneo
BY stately oaks. seems but silver stream among
the green meadows; graceful mountains en-
veloped in that purple haze peculiar to the climate
rise grandly against the clear sky: the summit
of the farthest hill gsten the white spires OF the
marble pilgrimage church OF the Virgin AS the
eye turns in the opposite direction seeking ne"
beauties it rests upon the chateau OF heHpruhh
whose white walls shine amid the luxuriaht io"-
age of the adjacent park. Behind II the lofty ana
imposing untersherg, with It's three peaks OF
which the farthest is the famous Bcrchtessaden,
with its wonderful salt mines, overtops the sur
rounding mountains
As we approached the long well-bult tunnel
through the MouchshcrG paused To examine the
little houses nesting against the side or the MIL
whose rooms are not infrequently cut In the con-
plom.rate rock The numerous landslidcs when
occur here in the spring mcrcilessly sweep these
little dwellings away. leaving only the stone chan-
bers filled with sand and the debris collected our
ing the rapid descent Looking back We coIId us
tlnctly perceive the large horse trough WIN IT'S
grnup Of lifc-siz.l horses carved from single
block Of marble. Emerging from the tunnel We
entered "A broad avenue. the double rows OF great
trees on either side forming an arch overhead
through which the sunbeams fell. casting iantas'c
shadows on the hard. white road. The silence was
broken hy the sound Of our horses hoofs ana the
laughter Of some children playing on the bahks oil
the Salzach a. II flowed past NJ. Fields OF godeh
grain waved gently I'm the wind. poppes and corn
flowers grew by the waysiie. little cottages win
matched roof. o.ergrOwn with moss ana creeping
vines rose on the edge Of the meadows. We passed
one Of those heavy canvas-cOv'r.d wagons -" com
mon In Austria \ comfortably dressed peasant
drinking and singing. seated In II. while
null. and a woman. her bare feet exposed 10 every
stone on the road hhrncsscd together IRE" u'
heavy load. y striking but not unusual 'S'