St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1893-08-19

Among the Best in the w ORD
"A Day at Bonsecours Mar
ket.
Special Correspondence OF the Globe.
MONTREAL, Can, Aug. From the
summit ofthis green mountain. from
which the city, which lies on plateau
about its base. takes its rame, the tour
list enjoys vista, the extent and inter
est of which is not TO be surpassed
in North America. The ascent of
Mount Royal, as it is now called, the
name being angliciZed. is made by the
Mount Royal Park Incline company. a
balance railway which creeps up the
steep mountain side much after the
mode of ascending Pixies Peak.
The summit attained, one finds
the city in absolute posses
sion of the vast area, the
whole of which has been dedicated for
public park. For sixty miles eacn way
the view surveys the grand. majestic
stride of the green ST. Lawrence. Be-
low is the city of Montreal, the French
Canada and the English Canada, alive
in the same embrace. She sits proudly
between French Quebec, 172 miles east.
and English Toronto, 33S miles west.
The site is formidable. at the head of
navigation, in the very heart of The
continent-the pulse of every CONNER
cial artery in British America.
Her history Is that Of heroism. ro-
nance and marvellous achievement. and
as California typiIies the bear. SO Mont
real and its province lives loyal to the
wise and thrifty beaver. Standing now on
what was once an active, violent, belch-
ing volcano, we see far below i'll the re-
Elected glare of the MONDAY sun, the
compact city of towers and spires. of
ship arms and masts. of glittering slate
roofs and wide and gracefully winding
Streets-all upon fiat stretch of table
land. beyond which The st. Lawrence
teens with the craft of the worlds trade.
Beyond the water the twin peaks of st.
Hilaire stand sentinel silence In nebu-
.ous mist. In another direction, affixed
in death-like grip to the precIptUus
steep, are the cemeteries of COte-des-
Neiges and Mount Royal. Deep INTO the
west, over Nuns island, the laughing,
iiendish Lachine rapids run towards the
rising sun. Straight in front, as if
issuing from some deep cave IN the
mountain bowels, stretches the tubular
length of the great Victoria bridge. the
eighth wonder of the world. st. Helen'S
Islands rest placidiy To the left. and in
the middle distance rise the majestic
twin towers of Notre Dame.
We descend the mountain and pick
ing our way through crowded. noisy
thoroughfareS we finally stand upon the
Place d'ArmeS, historically noted as
the burial plot of the old pioneers, but
now, by splendid artifice, equipped as
il city park, where tine wOrshiper may
sit and contemplate the cathedral of
Notre Dame, which stands in its stain
of age and use across the street.
Notre Dame is one of the largest
ecclesiastical structures on the couti-
nent. 1t has Accommodated $4,000 per-
SONS. and now, with the perfection of
its new chapel. it lends room and Wor-
Ship-SerVice to many more. Its towers
are 227 feet high. 1t has magnificent
and melodious chime Of eleven bells, Of
which one. called the Gras. Bourbon, is
the largest in America and weighs
29. 400 pounds. The cathedral and site
are the property or the Societe ST. Sui
| pice, and the pile cost about $4,000, 600.
i attended the Sunday service at
! Notre Dame. This service is conducted
| throughout the day. Here France
| comes and goes as each hour, kisses the
! last into the past. The music is weird
| and inspiring. i heard beautiful
baritone voice issuing in solo from the
| choir. The acoustics are so perfect and
| the interior SO spacious the voice of this
| man became the magnified melody of
! twenty. NOtre Dame, to be rightly
| judged, must be seen in its gorgeous
dress of gold and enamel, its magnifi-
| cent old oil paintings of the Christ and
the Madonna and allegory. Here every
| shrine established by the Catholic
creed may be knelt before in worship
| full homage.
The weird life of these great Sc
| pulchral tones as they swell from the
choir, the swaylng, bowling heads of
| $1,000 souls, with each face study of
| the varied expression of every emotion
of mind and heart of which human i'm
pulse in sensitive, the Western sunlight
| cleaning through the Kaleidoscope win
dows, the sheen of gold. as the whit
enened glow plays a halo abOut-the
altar heads, the chant and the
lonesome wall of the oppressed
as she sits in her aged
decrepitude in the shadow OF
an imaged saint, the heavy, hollow
tread of the door sexton. the bells and
| the sweetened quietude which seem to
steal over the scene every little while;
| then the intensity manifest at some con-
| NlHcInS Iecltdtloit, tite PAL due VI pi leSlS
| with Shaven heads and the sad and
solemn fnality, all is grandly impress
sive. nay mSteriously faciDating, not to
| be comprehended. methinks, nor to be
| analysed, nor tested with the past, the
| present nor eternity; but to be suS-
tanned by these human devoteS by a
calm, Sc rene, unreaSOning faith.
Crouching in its uncanny aspect be-
side the great cathedral stands the
| ancient seminary of st. Suipice, with
| its two centuries of weather wear, its
! pierced with loop holes yawnlng in the
| sleep of ages as the streets, civliZa-
| ton disturbs it with its hustle and its
| tumult. Across the street. and beyond
the Place d. Armes, on st. James
| street, we suddenly come upon
| that powerful machine in the
world of finance. the Bank of Montreal.
ST. Paul can study this institution with
a Savory pride from the fact of the adj
venturOus association with it of our own
| James j. Hill, and our mUch-lamented
Norman w. KittS0n, when these gentle
men were daring the hazardous enter
| prise of building the st. Paul IL Pacific
! railroad.
A noble and massive structure is the
| great Roman Catholic cathedral, which
is known as st. Peters, built, in dmen-
sions of one half, after st. Peters of
Rome. This beautiful house of wor-
ship is a perfect model of the Struct-
ure in Rome, and stands on the west
side of Dominion square, the finest
| public park in the city.
Then there are The efficient hospitals,
for which Canada is so noted. The ROYAL
| Victoria and the Hotel Dieu are the
| new and old respectively. The former
is the munlficeDt gift of Sir George
| Stephens and Sir Donald Smith. Hotel
Dieu is very quaint study i'm gray
stone, under the conduct of the Black
| Nuns. 1t was founded in 1914. The
famous Grey Nunnerv. founded in
1888, is also hospital-not a con.
| vent, as most people presume. The
| name Grey Nuns was first given them
| in derision. The malicious reports cir
| culated against the ladies, especially