The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1893-01-05

lays may frequently occur from want of fresh
horses.
Travelling in this way is cheap enough. The
charge il eastern Siberia is three kopeks
(about one and four-fifths cents) a verst $500
feet with a trifiing Government tax in addi-
tion, and small gift to each driver.
At the time of our journey the roads were
very bad, owing to heavy rains which had but
recently rendered them impossible. The driver
cracked his whip and the horses were off with
bound and plunge into the deep, black
mud. They threw shower of it into our
faces from their heels and completely blinded
US We realized that there would be incon-
veniences.
The tarantass regards no obstacles, but
continues its mad career as long as it re-
mains approximately right side up. On one
occasion ours manifested most unmistakable
disposition TO recline in soft mud-hol but
the horses were slowly wading through it at
the time, and the driver jumped of in his long
boots and prevented an upset, which would
have been damp and disagreeable in the dark.
Generally speaking, when the road is toughest
the horses gallop the fastest. and such a shak-
ing up as the helpless traveller gets among his
blankets and pillows is simply Undesirable.
Compared with the tarantass. the siow-moving
Picking cart, so roundly abused by the people
in China, is an easy rocking chair.
With the setting Of the sun swarms of tor
menting musketos come upon US They are
pest of the traveller on the road and at the
stations.
At the first station where we alighted-or
rather, not having Russian boots for wadng
in mud-holes after dark, when we were both
carried TO the steps-we found jug OF most
excellent rich milk, and the samovar was
soon steaming. Each person does we'll to
carry his own tea in Siberia, for such as can
sometimes be obtained on the way is not al
ways good.
The samovar, or self-cooker, is brass or
nickel-p plated urn, through the center of
which runs a verticle tube about three inches
in diameter. The tube Ia filled with burning
charcoal, and is surrounded by the water in the
urn, which is thus quickly made to boil. The
fire is then extinguished by cap placed over
the top of the tube.
Tea is made in a small teapot, which can
be kept hot by standing on the top of the
samovar. But the decoction TINS made is very
strong, and no ea-drinking people, such as
the Russians certainly are, drink strong tea.
They pour little of it into glass; add
lump of sugar. and ell the glass with water
out Of the samoyar.
The Russians always serve tea in glass,
with q porcelain saucer for convenience. the
glass being too hot to handle when filled
with the boiling water from the samovar.
The latter is found in every house, and for
few kopeks is furnished at stations and hotels
to guests.
1t was nearly midnight when we arrived at
Nikolski. thoroughly tired and covered with
mud. Much to our surprise and qualification
we found a clean and excellent hotel-far
better than any at Vladivostok. The village
is large in extent, composed of small, one
stpried houses. and few shops about the open
msrket-pl where on Sundays the people
gathe: from the country about, the women ar
rayed In their best gaily- colored garments.
bright red, blue, yellow, and green shawls and
'kerchiefs conspicuous in the throng.
Sunday is the great day for shopping and
trading First. everybody goes to church at 8
o'clock. No wonder, for what fine service
that Greek Catholic Church service is! It
made me feel like a heather to be nero on.
locker at the simple devotion manifested by
the people, rich and poor, kneeling together
and crossing themselves, and then the full
voices of the priests Joined in responsive
chants of richest harmony. The entire ser
vice seemed to me impressive and conducive to
true religious feeling ] would be glad to
go again to Siberia just to hear those chants in
the soft Russian voices, without organ OK other
accomplishments.
Afterward they all gather in the shops and
market-place. happy and good-natured, to en-.
joy their holiday. Whatever may be true in
some parts of the Cars domains of the op.
preston and suffering Of the peasantry, there
is none of it where we visited The people
were all happy and well clothed. In the shops
there is no bargaining, for prices are all fixed
and plainly marked.
One could not avoid noticing the quiet man.
ners of both clerks and peasantry in their in
tercourse. Along the streets or in the country