davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25
A SCENE AT MENTOR.

many. One Of his closest friends at this time
was Gen. Swain, whom he afterward made Judge
advocate general, and Judge Swain has told
me some unwritten history concerning it Said
he:
Il was at Mentor during nearly the whole of
the period between Garfelds nomination and
his election. and / remember very well the
night when We received the news that he was
elected. We had decided ourselves beforehand
tina New York and Indiana would decide the
contest had arranged with Gen. Chester A.
Arthur to telegraph me at midnight OF election
day to the result in New York. and we re-
ceived his dispatch sitting in the little Office
which stood apart from the house at Mentor.
The returns showed that everything had been
going our way, and when we got the dispatch
saying that New York had undoubtedly gone
republican told Gen. Garfield that be was
elected. He tried not to believe it and doubted,
saying that we had better wait awhile before
we became too confident. As the dispatches
came in. however, his election was confirmed
beyond doubt, and shortly after midnight
we left the office and went upstairs. where
he had another little study and where we
could be alone. After we got into the study
j asked him rs to his cabinet. 1 said:
You are elected beyond the shadow Of doubt,
and would like to know IL you had to decide
tonight just who was to 60 into your cabioet
what persons you would choose He smiled at
the idea and asked me whom thought he would
select, and he finally had me take my seat at
nv desk while he sat at his on the other side of
the room. He then said We will each write
down on slip Of paper the men that we think
ought to go into the cabinet After we are
through will turn over my paper and lay it on
my desk and you can turn over yours and we
will then change desks and see how near we
come together All right, said /, and we each
began to write. A moment later Gen. Garfield
said: 4 have an alternate for one Of nv Offices
Il have several. said /. Well, in the course Of
Q few minutes we were through and we changed
seats. or the names written down there were,
perhaps, three or four on both lists which were
the same. The others were different. Several
OF the men whose names were written down
still living, and would not like to give the
lists. President Garheld's ideas changed from
time to time until his Inauguration, and he had
to make a cabinet which should be strong and
which at the same time would, he thought. aid
in harmonizing the different elements Of his
party and at the same time do justice to the
whole country. The details Of the formation
NAV be published some time, but 1t seems to
me that II IL too soon to do 90 now.
FRANK G. CARPxNTER-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

Harrison's cabinet than Gen Kitchener, who
was one OF his chief heutenants at Chicago and
who has for ten years been his most intimate
riend- chatted with him about the subject
Said he:
There have been many stories about the
making up OF President Harrison's cabinet. but
Few true ones The statement that ex-senator
flatt OF New York was offered the Secretary
ship OF the Treasury or of any other place I'M
der the administration BY President Harrison
before the nomination was made is false in
toto. No man had a promise or intimation OF
any kind from Harrison before his nomination
that he would be given Office by him. No
man had any such intimation or promise during
the period between his nomination and cleo
tion. and there were no promises to speak OF
made before President Harrison came to WASH
ington. He would not embarrass himself in any
way, and as to the cabinet, though he discussed
Offices and men. he did not seriously begin to
consider appointments until ct least Q month
after his election. Blaine was the first man
chosen and Gen. Harrison wrote to him and
offered him the Secreta-yship Of State. and
am not sure, but 1t is my impression that he
received . letter accepting the appointment
two or three DAYS after his letter was sent. The
lext appointment was, think, that Of Mr..
Proctor as Secretary of War. Senator Proctor
had never met Gen. Harrison up to the time Of
the convention. He came to Chicago and
quietly looked over the situation and there
made up his mind that Harrison was the man
who should be nominated. While the palloting
was going on at about IL o'clock one night he
and Gov. Cheney Of New Hampshire and Nc
Cullough, the railroad president Of New York,
came to the headquarters Of the Indiana dele
cation and announced their intention of throw
ing their support to Harrison. They said that
they intended to work and vote for him and
that IL the giving out Of the fact would help his
cause We were at liberty to do so. We were. of
course, glad to meet them and we scattered the
information far and wide soon could
get hold Of the newspaper men. After the con-
vention was over Mr.. Proctor went down to
Indianapolis in McCullough's private car and
met Harrison. Gen. Harrison was struck with
Proctor's ability and common sense. He liked
him at once, and when he came to making up
his cabinet he chose him. both on the grounds
of gratitude for his work at Chicago and re-
spect for his sterling abilities. He knew also
that the appointment would please New Eng
land and he was sure that he would make q
good cabinet advisor. Secretary Noble was
highly recommended BY Attorney General Mil
Ter. President Harrison had known him for
years and Liked him He came to indianapolis
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

closely in feeling with the costumes worn By
the fair sex at the important social functions.
This is a costume worn by one Of the embassy
of either the English or French nation to the
United States. 1t is product Of l7s3-just
100 years ago.
During the reign OF Louis XVI Of France the
skirt coat was worn in the richest of fabrics.
The cut of the garment made so that il
should not quite meet in front, in order to dis
play the richly be6owered or embroidered
waistcoat there were no lapels. the upright
collar being richly embelished with gold thread
and there were pockets at the waist on each
side, with large flaps as part OF the decoration.
Powdered wigs, knee breeches, silk hose and
low shoes with buckles completed the ensemble
1t was indeed the era Of brocade, and the court
festivals OF royalty were upon scale of rich
ness and beauty. in respect to the lavish eN-
penditure for costumes and personal adorn-
ment Of both sexes, that has never since been
equaled. The skirt coat of Louis XVI marked
an era of pomp and pageantry, when Sedan
chairs were the equipages of the aristocracy,
and when to transcend one of the settled forms
of etiquette meant social disgrace and ostra-
cism.
When the people rose finally, goaded by the
extravaganza and Incidence Of the aristocrats
and the royalists were driven ont of France in
1873, the revolutionsts decided to make a
change, not only in the forms of government,
but also in the Costumes and dress Of the
people. 1t was natural TO suppose that. under
republican conduct of the affairs of state, q
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25


NV father was always courteous. but he was
also firm He had his own ideas Of how his ad-
Ininistrstion had to be managed, and he was
not backward IN responding to this exhibition
Of adAmantine cheek. He rose to his feet
and confronted Webster and then looking
about the cabinet room he said: Gentlemen.
am very proud to have in nv cabinet such able
statesmen as you have proved yourselves to be.
shall be pleased to avail myself of your counsel
and advice. but can never consent TO being
dictated to as to what snail shall not do.
j an the President and shall be held respons-
fble for my administration / hope shall have
your hearty corporation in carrying out its
measures. So long as you see fit to do this
shall be glad to have you with me. When YOU
think otherwise viii be equally glad to get
Tyler, Settled the question. and there was no
further trouble as to who was the head of the
cabinet"
How JoHS a CALHOUN cor INTO TYLxa's
CABINET.
1spoke to Gen. Tyler about John @. Calhoun
and he told me how he became a member OF
his fathers cabinet against his fathers will.
IL was al accomplished by Henry A. Wise.
Cpshur, who had been made Secretary Of State
on the resignation OF Daniel Webster. was
blown up on the Princeton on the Potomac
river IN 1874, and this made q vacancy in the
cabinet "Henry A WISE" said Gen. TYLER
was nv fathers chief representative in Con-
grsss, and he took 1t upon himself to go as
soon ~ he heard Of Upshur's death to Mac
Dufhe. the leading Senator from South Caro-
Ina, and told him 20 write to John c. Calhoun
thu; President Tyler wanted him to accent tho
portfolio Of the Secretary OF State. de did
this without saying q word to my father. The
next day be came into the White House and
told father what he had done He said the
letter had been sent and to withdraw it
would make the whole south angry Nv
father was thunderstruck- He gripped his
chair with all his force and il WAS all he could
do 70 keep from telling Wise TO get out Of his
Gght and never cross his path again. But he
remembered that Wise was his CHIEF friend in
Congress and be did not dare TO break with him
He never really forgavs him, and the situation
vas such that be had to appoint Calhoun. Just at
the time CpshUr died he had completed treaty
for the annexation OF Texas, and had he lived
few weeks longer this would have undoubt-
sdly been consummAted aud the war with Mexico
would nsver have occurred Tom Benton hated
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

simplicity of dress would be observed. Not 80
with the Jacobites. The cunning leaders were
aware that the volatile character Of the people
must be appeased with something in the nature
of glitter or tinsel in attire. Upset one theory
of tinery for them, and they will invoke
another! This has always been the case in
France. and doubtless always will be. The plan
was accordingly adopted, TO hold the masses to
the new standard by pandering to their vanity,
in intoxicating the -good-as-
another" principle, and urging them to Guido
royalty in its palmiest days.
1t was a shrewd move. and one advocated by
Robespierre, who was himself an exquisite OF
the most advanced type. 1t was, moreover, a
palpabie instance of dress being utilized a. a
factor Of diplomacy in one Of the political
crises Of q nation famous for its attention to
detail in costume. Danton and Marat were by
no means pleased with the frippery OF their
confrere. but they recognized the eficacv Of its
adoption, and CARRIED themselves after the de-
creed fashion, though in . more subjugated
form.
The new scheme Of dress was direct meta
morphosis from the embroidered sQuare-cut
coats, knee breeches and powdered wigs Of
royalty to the high-collared, short-waisted.
long-tailed, big-lapeled coat Of the republicans.
who also adopted pantaloons worn tight and
extending to the ankle, high neckerchiefs. sugar.
loaf hats and ribbons at the knee.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

wearer-and the skirts Of the fare type. that
impart smart look to the costume. and the
full sleeves, that give distingue touch. the two
coats are on similar lines. Farther back we
find court costume OF the most distinguished
and manly character. The vogue Of the last
decade Of the past century showed the men Of
that epoch fine types, and history has so chron-
icled it. Something might be done with thi.
costume. The pantaloons which button at or
are tied about the ankle, and were OF the heavy
white buckskin. could be succeeded by knee
breaches in some approved material. The high
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25
it would be an advisable one for the President

1t would be an advisable one for the President
to make
81 would like to know why not?' was Presi-
dent Arthur's reply.
III tell you Why said I. Samuel ]. Kirk
wood was in President GsrAeld's cabinet and
you accepted his resignation. He il an old
man, distinguished man and . much-loved
man in Iowa, and If you now take young man
and an inexperienced man from the same state
Kirkvood's friends will think il is reflection
on him and 1t will be q very bad appointment
for You politically I then asked as to the
other men who had been recommended TO him
and he showed me the list and asked me who I
thought was the best of them. told him that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25


Calhoun and he threw all his weight against the
treaty, because Calhoun had been made secre-
tary OF State. and prevented its confirmation
The result was the Mexican war, and il was al
brought about By Henry A. Wise"
President FOLKS CABINET.
President Folks cabinet was made up With
almost - much trouble a. was that Of President
Tyler. John c. Calhoun wanted to remain
the Secretary Of State. but he was sacrificed to
please Martin Van Buren, George Bancroft
wa made Secretary OF the Navy, Robert j.
Walker Secretary of the Treasury and John Y.
Mason Of Virginia. who was Secretary Of the
Navy in Tyler's cabinet, was made Attorney
General He was kept in the cabinet because
he ssked Polk TO keep him there. He stated to
his friends that be wanted q cabinet Office for
the money IL brought. Said he. II like the
place and the salary will assist nv Virginia land
and my negroes In the education Of six
daughters" and 90 be got the place.
nov PRESIDENT HARRISON FORMED HIS CABINET.
No man outside Of the President himself
knows more about the formation Of President
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

There is one element OF later-day social dc.
velopment to be decried. II 10 Q species 81
snobocracy. There 10 O certain set OF fashion,
ablss that has endeavored 70 surpass the more
re-eminent leaders in the social world by .
series OF startling innovations. These consist
most fagrsntly Of having the mes servants
CARRIED with an extra funkeyism that shall outds
the fummery that 10 prscticed among the
royalty and arisfocracy abroad.
A more careful livery for coachmen and foot
men 10 not TO be caviled at, for the equipsgss
are in their makeup quite - decorative - they
we're In revolutionary times. In fact. revolu-
tionary green 10 Q favorite and marked tint 40
the present time. When other coaors are util-
ized the coachman and footman must Of course
be required TO match the equipsss in theis
makeup.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

history of their country IN the matter OF cos
tune. The everyday costume today repre-
seuts an epoch of wears ago. did they bat know
it. The frock coat with wide long SKIRT, bell
hats. with tighter trousers. rich-looking and
meshed-up effects in scaris. reproduce the fine
types Of which an illustration Of the vogue 10
here given.
Men of good size and carriage should start
the crusade.
The interest in athletics Of late has kept up
the figures Of the men OF the 400. The athletic
clubs. with the boxing gloves, foils and out
door sports; the collegiate course and the incl
dental training; the hunting field. tennis court
all the sports Of the four seasons-have de-
yeloped the sinews that keep them fresh
throughout the exhaustive hours Of the social
season.
Such is the situation and such the opportu-
mites. l have no desire more than for a bet
terment Of the mems apparel scheme. and
would prefer the savants Of swelldom that have
so skllfully steered the course in fashionable
attire to lead the wav.
sNoBocRACY.
There is . reason for everything that is right
in the fashions. There is philosophy in the
fashions The oracle rarely predicts and never
issues edicts ss to what the fashions will be,
but he watches the tendencies OF the times and
prognosticates from them with what has proven
UNMARRIED success upon the details and en-
semble in mems dress.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

Prom the Boston budret
Not only WIS DR.. Sharp the best surgeon In
the state, but, best Of all. he was young and
eligible. Il was, then, not 70 be wondered ~
that he was particularly liked BY fond
nammas With marfiagsable daushtsn and siiIl
less cause FOR wonder that he considered him
self a ALWAYS on the defensive.
One afternoon st . tss given by Mra Becker
for her eldest daughter his hcstsss remarked
with catering interest; ct must require
great presence OF mind In your profession,
doctor. Now, supposing man should fall ouo
Of balloon; what would you do frst?'
wait for hizn to come down" h replied
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

OF President Garield's death and the temper Of
the party and OF the country concerning ii.
There was a strong feeling against Conkling
and Arthur. The leaders of the republican
party thought ii had me to smash. and don t
believe that Senators sherman. Allison, Logan
or any others Of the then aspirants for the
presidential nomination thought at the time
that there WIS much hope Of Its successful re-
yiyal. President Arthur understood the situa-
ticn and he managed his appointments and his
administration SO ably that he succeeded in
bringing order out OF the confusion and made
possible the election Of a republican successor.
When Garfield died il was supposed that
Arthur. representative element Of the stslwart
party as he was. would take Conkling into his
cabinet and would choose men Of this faction
for all the positions. This was the talk Of
the newspapers, but when be came to make his
appointments he rose above factions and con-
sidered the interests OF the country a.
well as those Of his friends. His adoption Of
the other course would have been decidedly I'M
safe. At the time Gen Arthur entered upon
his duties there was q man behind nearly every
blade Of grass in the country who had an idea
that somehow or other he was mixed up with
the assassination Of Garfield. and had he ap-
pointed Conkling he would have only added to
the factional flames. As soon as he took hold
Of the administration the members Of Garfield
cabinet sent in their designations. He replied
to them that he would like to have them hold
their positions until he could consider the mat
ter carefully and make other appointments
The first name that he sent in to the Senate was
that of Gov Folger as Secretary OF the Treasury
and be gradually sent in other names until the
only man left Of Garfeld's cabinet was Robert
Lincoln. He s.aid until the close Of the admin
istration-
WHITE HOUSE rNTrnvIEw.
II WAS several times acting postmaster gen
eral before was appointed and confirmed q,
such When Postmaster General Howe died
was made acting postmaster general for ten
days and was then designated by the President
to continue as Postmaster General for ten days
longer. During this time some OF my friends
without my solicitation or knowledge. urged
President Arthur to appoint me Postmaster
General l of course said nothing about it, but
when I was calling upon him at the White
House one day he said to me: You would really
be surprised at the number Of letters have re-
eeived asking for your appointment as Post
master General What have you to say abou
! it and what would you think Of such an aP
pointment?
ITO this I replied" continued Mr.. Hatton
"'That however much I might appreciate my
appointment to such poSision, did not thinl
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25
A CENTURY OF STYLES
How Mems Fashions Have Changed
in q Hundred Years
ANENT SHORT BREECHES
Shall We Adopt Some Points Of the Costume
Of lsss!-How the Change Might Re r.
Sscted-Ths Women Growing Caysr and
the Men Mers Incengruous.
From shs Clothier and Furnisher.

HERE Is But A
small difference 'twixt
the swell OF 1898 and
the dandy Of less than
fifty years ago. as wit
ness the two illustra-
tons, 1898 and ls4s.
Save for an especial air
ofelegancei in the earlier
portraiture - for the
waist is drawn tightly
in the coat, not, how
ever. with stays, but to
the true fgure Of tina
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25
KANSAS SENATORS.
The Stormy Times Over the First
Election in That State.
L ANE AND POM E r OY

and the Hold He Had Upon the People
Sensational Charges Of Bribery and Their
Result.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

What are you going to DO about iti The wo-
men are growing gsyer in their full dress habits
and the men growing more incongruous.
AZ TO the eowns-the fetching. winsome con-
ceits that stirred the pulses OF the fsshionables
of our own land more than fifty wears ago
they are growing more beautiful The claw.
hammered nondescript Of 1888 10 gradually
being pushed out OF the pictorial focus.
One need not go 20 England for fashion,
and never 10 France (where the effeminacy once
reigned), nor TO Brummells time. when all was
artificial,
There are the good old American day. in
which the beauN Of the period were in short
Clothes. and were in costumes which were in
chime with the minnet There might be. for
the swiiter time Of the cotilliOn, some equally
picturesque and inherently masculine dress for
the men, that should make them q blendabls
part Of the social tableaux. and which they
should take of after the nights iollitios dom
ming on the morrow the practical garb % these
money-makiEg work away. lack-sentiment day.
times, with a lighter heart for having been pio-
toriaL
Search back in the family records and seek
ont the ancestral portraits since the colonial
DAYS. There plenty OF epochs 10 draw
upon. Washington in knee breeches is the first
recollection OF this nation. Have the evening
dress of rational extraction. There 10 nothing
efeminate in long stockings. Some OF the
brayest, best. bluest-blooded Americans wore
them in battle with leggings, and danced In
them at the county ball.
The swells, IL they want these changes. must
set about II themselves. Let them look up he
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25
Observation-Disclosures
Queer Stories From Famous EI-Seo-
retaries as to Their Formation.
TYLER AND DANIEL WEBSTER.

4 Curious Story Of Henry A. wise and John
C. CaIho1s-Ths True Inwsrdnsss Of
President Harrison's Appointments-A
"Reminiscences Of Gen. Garnsld's Cabinet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-02-25

N 1907 d y II A y 4
Greeley said, 1.-THE twin
curses Of Kansas are
land spectators and
one-horse politicians.
Some people firmly be-
lievs that the spirit Of
Mr.. Greeley's opinion
still stalks the sundower
state.
Mr.. B. F. Simpson in
a speech on the "Wyan-
dotte constitution" Of
rbirh hn xuoa onA - %bA