The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-05-21
THE. WOMAN OF FASHION.
The Subject Of Chicago Gowns Con-
SideTed by the Maker Of Them.

Slupleu Dy lle MdkeI OIL lne[n.
Three Suggestions for an All-round
Costume-Sleeves "de Ceremonie."
Spring Costumes in Gray-Summer
Toilets.
(Copyright)
New York, May 20.-"What shall I
wear to Chicago2" asked I, of the dress
maker. II shall not carry single thing
beside one small bag; but you must guar
antee to produce gown that will be neat
and suitable on the train, that will look
fresh and spotless when / arrive at the
fair gates, that will be perfectly proper
IN which TO call upon my friends-in
| short, gown that will never be out of
| keeping, no matter where may wish to
go, short of a dress affair.
| We'll" said the dressmaker, thought
fully sucking her pencil stub, what you
need is black serge of very fine quality.
| Your skirt will need to be plain except
for few rows of stitching which you
may have across the bottom. It must be
made up with short Elton jacket, and
/ must be accompanied with dozen or so
| fancy silk waists. Have one or two black,
or black speckled with white, three or
four pretty plaids, and three or four
| light, dainty-colored ones. These, with
| full belts, and with gloves to match
| the several waists, will make for
/ you as complete an outfit as you
| could desire. The waists will occupy
| scarcely any room in your bag, and will
be so different in color and material that
| a change from one to another will be quite
| satisfactory as an entire change Of cos
| tune" l thanked the lady and departed
Half an hour later found me PROFOUND
ing. HI self-same question to another
- L Nf til
and decisive, given without a moments
| hesitation. Some one had evidently been
| there before me seeking similar informa-
| ton.
Hop sacking gray-exactly dust-color-
| three diagonal bands of satin on the skirt,
tight-htting jacket bodice, turning back
in large revers over sleeve puffs of satin,
| to give dressy appearance; small linen
shirt fronts at the neck, which can be
| changed twice a day, if the dust of Chi
| cago renders it necessary. For nice oc-
| casions you may have a few daintier
| fronts"
The third and last dressmaker that I
| tried, was in favor of an entire dark blue
| costume, gloves, hat, veil, bodice, ct al
| She said l would grow tired of it, and
| that it would stand all sorts of roughing
am now trying to decide on one of the
! suggestions, and am wishing that l had
been satisfied with the advice of but one
| dresSmaker friend. You, my fair reader,
| may possess the faculty of immediate de-
| cision and ability to make up your mind.
If so, cheerfully place the suggestion at
your disposal.
Although skirt trimmings promise to
become simpler, and already display more
| simplicity than of yore, the sleeve grows
in eccentricity. A new sleeve, ode cere-
monte has an under sleeve of gathered
mousseline de sole or thin silk, banded
plainly by narrow ribbon that ties in
small bow. The over, sleeve is made OF
wide lace, caught in Just above the elbow
| by a ribbon band, tied. At the shoulder,
other and narrower lace, falling each side
of the puff in graceful jabot is caught in
puff.
Another, for the same ceremonious pur-
pose, has an undersleeve trimmed with
| four diagonal rows of lace Insertion
| above, a small, full puff of beautiful point
| d'Irlande is gathered just over the elbow,
and, surmounting this, is a soft drapery
of peau de sole, confined with pearl
| buckle.
| One of black lace is gathered in at the
| elbow forming a slight upper puff; an
other puff is made below by three rows of
| shirring which so around the cuff. Mar
row ribbon is run up and down the
meshes of the lace, and four-ribbon choux
are added, two at the shoulder, one at
| the elbow, and the other above the shir-
| ring at the waist
Now that almost all of the big foreign
| ships have left our shores, we think, with
little sigh, of how much hubbub and
| pleasant excitement they created, even in
| this great metropolis. The Blake re
| ceived more than her share of attention,
from femininity at least. What pretty
toilets turned out on the last Sunday of
her stay here. Riverside was full of them,
ana Us they stood on little mound oppo-
site the great Blake, noticed how many
gray toilets there were among them. The
| gray was all of the delicate shade, with
| the delicacy EXCHANGED by the trimming
One maiden, sitting languidly on a bench,
| had deep white lace ruffle on her spread
ing skirt, and white lace puffs over her
| sleeves. Then she wore a lace collarette
stifTened beneath, so that it stood out
over her shoulders. Running down to
meet this was an old-fashioned white lace
| veil, hanging loosely about her chin.
Another gray had big putfed sleeves of
| gray gauffered satin, which is so much
| finer and lighter than the satin of old
and very much in vogue now for sleeve
puffs.
Another had fine rows of lavender vel
| vet all the way down the skirt, and
gown.
One more had broad bands of bright
velvet bordering the skirt.
There were many bright and startling
combinations but, on the whole, the com
| binations were artistic, and displayed far
more taste than one could discover in the
Easter parade. Already we are seeing
the error of our ways, and are robing our
selves more tremendously
The Loie Fullei skirt--the complete
circle-is now somewhat modified, par
| ticularly for soft, fine materials of sum
mer. There is no circle in the new skirt
the seven or eight breadths of the silk
are retained broad at the top as at the
| bottom.
In place of gathering them all round,
however, as we did few summers ago,
the fullness over the hips is disposed OF
in broad folds that turn inside and to-
ward the back. They take up scarcely
any room, and leave all the full effect be-
low. This style of skirt gives very
charming and youthful effect to its wearer,
which is accentuated by the short Jacket
| effects and full fronts that everybody is
wearing.
A pretty summer costume made of
| pale pink bingham run with silken
threads has a very pretty skirt trimming
There are six bands of fine guipure run
ming around the skirt, the one at the hem