The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-20

| 1t is not at all improbable that Mr. GLAD.
STONE told one Of the women dress REFORM
ers that he liked tho old Grecian draperies
better than the existing conventional fem
mime costume. for that is the Judgment Of
most men Of aesthetic taste.
The expression of his opinion on the SUBJ
| ject, however. Is OF no practical Importance,
extraordinary and manifold as his abilities
may be. Fashion is domain in which the
greatest OF the leaders Of men are power
less. and where even the principles Of
aesthetics do not necessarily hold sway. It
is field. too. in which the restless reform.
atory spirit Of this period has expended it.
self fruitlessly. though the effort has been
long and ceaseless.
More than forty years ago AMELIA
BLooMER began an agitation for the reform
Of the dress of women on both aesthetic
and sanitary grounds. She did not content
herself with mere general suggestions, but
adopted and advocated particular Co.'S
tune devised and first worn by a daughter
OF GERR1T SMITH. one of the early aboll-
tionists. Her example was followed by
Mrs. ELIZABETH CADY STANTON, LUCY
STONE. and others Of the women's rights
revolutionists. but the Bloomer costume.
as it came to be called. did not receive
feminine favor. and soon even those who
were self-sacridcing enough to make the
experiment Of wearing it in the face OF
public derlsion. were glad to discard the
ugly garments and to render renewed sub
mission to the imperious dictates OF con-
ventional fashion.
This costume did not satisfy the taste OF
MIR. GLADSTONE for flowing Grecian draper
les. but was devised for the very purpose
OF getting rid Of them. as obstructive Of the
free movement OF women; and the reform
dress recommended at Chicago only lately
Is constructed on the same general princl-
pies. In each there Is a tunic reaching to
the knee. or a little below. and then come
trousers or leggings. Both bear some sort
OF resemblance to the present femi-
nine bathing costume. except that they
lose its grace and beauty by concealing
the contour Of the lower legs with baggy
coverings. instead OF revealing 1t with
close-fttlng stockings. The new reform
dress was introduced into the Women's
Convention at Chicago. and excited much
curiosity. as worn by two or three Of its
most courageous advocates, but we have
not heard that even they have ventured to
wear 1t habitually In public: and IL they did
80. probably they would provoke no less
derision than Mrs. AMELIA BLooMER and
her reformatory associates excited q gen.
GRAFTON ago.
Mrs. RUSSELL. the woman who reported
the remark Of Mr.. GLADSTONE, has devised
q new costume on her own account. II is
described as gown which "scemed to fall
entirely from the shoulders" looking as IL |
"she had hung bedspread upon her back |
and table spread on her front" Appar-
emily. it is a modification OF the Mother
Hubbard dress. which was In vogue several
years ago in various parts OF the Union,
but as town ordinances were passed forbid
ding the wearing Of that garment on the
ground OF its improperly, and no such
objection Is made to Mrs. RUssELL's bag
like gown. we infer that she has CIR
rected the defect. IL defect it be. OF
revealing the contour of the feminine
figure In Its unapproached beauty. Atany
rate. it has no likeness whatever to the
Grecian draperes. OF which Mr.. GLADSTONE
approves with 80 much good taste. 1t has
not the cincture. and does not exhibit any
OF the outlines Of the figure. but conceals
them almost as thoroughly as does tho
hideous dress worn by Turkish women In
public. Evidently 1t gets rid OF the Deces-
sity Of corsets; but there is difference OF
opinion as to the injurious effect OF these,
and some such support was worn by women
even In the classical period to which Mr..
GLADSTONE turns with 80 much delight. The
dress OF the women represented in the
Ianagra statuettes and In the gems exca-
waited at Mycen@, Is not radically different
from the feminine costume OF to-day.
The history Of fashions. as shown In the
superb French works which picture the
costumes OF all ages. indicates that under
civilization the dress OF women OF fashion
has followed the same general principle of
construction. and has been continuously in
accordance with MI. GLApsToNE's taste for
lowing draperies. and at variance with tho
'eforIn dress now recommended. Tho treat
nent OF the drapories aud their decoration
AVE varied greatly aud caprlclously. but
iraporlOs nave always rcmalned ns tho
,isin featurc Of the costume. Unhappi!y I
.ho ,cnccDry las beoa away from tbs Aim