The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1893-06-07
(Continnld from Third tageD

cosmopolitan. On the average the
best walters are Frenchmen, provided
you fee them they will do nothing
without that; but Delmonico has some
Italians who are perfect at their bust
ness, and now and then a Spaniard
developes such a capacity that it is
evident he was born to the napkin
The worst waters are in the order
named American, German, and Irish.
On the corner of Twenty eighth and
Broadway there is a restaurant called
the Imperial. This is especially in
tended for gourmets, and, in order to
attract gentlemen, haf-port onS are
served. The cooking is admirable and
the prices high. A fHree Of mushrooms
is set down on the bill at 10 cents
scollop of pompano at IS cents; tin
bale of game, ST.; celery an jus, 10
cents a pint of table claret, IS cents.
Most of these clarets, if their antectd-
ents were known, would turn out to be
California wines, though the walters are
prepared with affidavits that they came
from France.
Comparing these restaurants with the
same class of institutions in Europe,
we find that the English beat us in two
of the raw materials used-beef and
mutton; and the French in one-pOul-
try. No such beef and mutton as you
can buy in Leadenhall stree. market is
exhibited on our butchers stalls, and
our capons and spring chickens cannot
compare with the birds which are
served at the Cafe de Paris or Tortenis.
In every other raw material the New
York caterer has the advantage. 1t is
sad to reflect that worthy Englishmen
and Frenchmen go to their graves with
out ever having tasted shad or bIuefsh,
with no acquaintance with prairie
chicken and a limited knowledge of
the canvassback, without understand
ing the terrapin, and with such an ig-
norance of vegetables that they actually
feed on turnips, and waste one of
Gods nobest gifts--a healthy appetite
on potatoes.
60 Of 81 I,l
for Mr.. and Mrs. Davies when they ask
the Miss CrCesuses to do them the
honor, ct CRteya. 1t must not be sup
posed that New Workers, as a rule,
spend IS apiece on their dinners or S.
on their luncheons. The city is full of
eating houses where a wholesome meal
can be procured for 1.-THE of these
sums. There are number of excel
lent restaurants where a steak and a
cup Of coffee both good of their kind
can be procured for 80 cents, and a
dinner-wth soup, cut from the Joint
= and couple of glasses Of Iager-for SO
cents. Down town, the human machine
can coal up for even less money.
In the streets which run from Broad
way to the North River, below Duane
Street, there used to be, and no doubt
there are still, eating counters at which
the hungry traveller can procure a plate
of steak and onions-as much as he
can eat-and a cup of coffee for a
York shilling. They used to be largely
patronzed by those who arrived by the
Jersey trains and the river boats, and
whose appetite had an edge like a
razor Was that the reason why there
never was such steak and onions since
AS moi qni 0onS bdyle can honestly
testify?
The New York table dhote is an
abomination as tables dhote are
everywhere, except, perhaps, in Paris
One can rot overcome the feeling that
the little round and oblong dishes, to-
gether with their contents, are old &C
quaintances, that men may come and
men may go, but they come on the
table forever. In the ancient days the
Lake Champlain boats discharged their
passengers at village called Whitehall,
where travellers took the train for AL.
bany or New York. The touters for
the hotel showed the way into the
dining-room, collected fifty cents in
advance per person, and babe every
one be seated for breakfast People
had no sooner taken their seats than
bell rang, a dozen railroad men shouted
in chorus "All aboard !" and everybody
rushed for the cars The story goes
that a traveller, imbued with the malign
spirit of the devil, passing that way in
May and having to leave his breakfast
behind, cut a nick in the wing of fowl
to mark it; returning over the same
ground in October, he found that same