The Caucasian. (Clinton, N.C.) 188?-1913, 1893-07-27
HOME DRESSMAkING.
A FEW SIMPLE RULES soa SECURING
A GOOD FIT.
The ec.G Disncau seam. OF An 10 na..s
Finishing the waist and ss~asthimg th.
Necessity Tos Carr

! Finishing the N@ist and sa.s.stAimg th.
Necessity rer csrv.
F. ,Copy rsgLt. l-asl b. AHsrteAa RVS. A--ocaA.
t4os-l
To iu~urr n f-rfccf &, = lining ought "a
L. travh Ca again trfuTe 1t IL tasted Ia the
out ssde, the s~anas h~ins lcss Ia the ~scussad
isme, and the whole should ft lake wax
Aitrr this iIrv-,css IL can bc hAStea urSsn the
outside with rather long stitchrz
To cut The outside lay ono side Of the lin.
ing GA the doubt. fold and haste IL all
around lightly, but firmly. and then cut il
exactly the same siEe a. the lining. with ~.
Inch margin 10 turn In the frint for bat
tons and hutsonholes, and then rip 1, l,sssr
10 haste the lining in permanently.
The lines Of hastinc down tho middle nj
the waist line ART intended e. draw the lin
Ing half All inch fuller there than the oslt-
side. Where the bust il unusually fun a
' SHAPED notch la the lining tapcring well
out toward the arm size will bc II great
benefit to the general form, but the outside
must he pul!esi up and down 80 that IL docs
not show. Sometimes V is also tax en-
under the arm These things must hr done
on the judgment Of the drr-smaka. The
adjusted II Is ryally more "fullness" than
gathers aud Is intended to cause the out
side to draw a little right there at the " aist
line where it is 80 apt TO wrinkle, aud thus
the outside remains smooth and firm.
When the gathering is done, there should
he a basting down through that part di-
rectly In the center Of each piece, and when
that is done the hastings around each are
set in In sort OF overland stitch that
makes zighaG, and this makes the firmest
basting The lining should lie held inside
The hastings being now sewed around ev-
cry edge ant seam, the different parts can
be basted together, and il IL is feasible the
waist can be tried on again. When the
seams are hAsted together they should al
ways start from the top and when they are
done they can be stitched up on the ma
chine, great care being taken Tn sew them
on the outside of the hastings, as they allow
a slack of about two inches.
After the waist is fitted the darts are TO
be cut out, allowing from one half TO three
quarters of AN inch scam according To the
quality of the goods. These seams are
sewed. beginning from "a taperinE point, and
then they are laid apart and pressed fiat,
being neatly trimmed and bound or over
cast, and bone castings arr run on.
He lTbilt Nluc lltNtS AIS ntlu little fhll
under the arm, and If the bust l. verY fun
few gathers can be set ia with benefit ut
the top of this piece
The top Of the under arm and side back
pieces are apt To get stretched, which makes
very unpleasant and inartistic bunch that
nothing can correct, To prevent this run
a hastiuy thread with small stitches close
to the upper edge where five ks are
marked. The center back pieces must be
basted together, holding them perfectly
straight and plain. 1t is good plan to
stick II few pins at intervals To keep them
from slipping or stretching The side back
seams are the most difficult of all to haste,
and few of the best dressmakers even get
them exact The following rules will in
sure success:
|. Basic the right side first, starting at
the top, holding back opposite the five
KS easy, but not full, being careful not
to stretch the seam at this point, as 1t is
bias Always hold the back next To You. 2
The back just above the waist line should
be held ii little full on the side-back at the
same position. Before basting the left side
fasten the seams together with pins two
inches apart, holding the back toward you
and commencing to pin from the top. Take
particular care TO hold the back and side
pieces at the upper marked waist line ex
actly ~ you did on the right side; then
haste up the seam, beginning at the bottom