The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-03-12
THE MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY MARCH 1893s1XTEEN PAGES

the back il big puff, loop or bow. OF
course, they are prettiest in velvet, though
effective in silk also. 10 has come 20 be al
most duty TO gracefully conceal the join
ing Of bodice and skirt in the costume OF to-
day. We dare not allow any one 20 dis
cover that there is such a thing as a juno
ture unless we wear the tailor-made gown.
We must carefully conceal every sugge5-
ton OF separation at this point and make IL
appear as II the dress had grown naturally
and gracefully upon US, as if no
concentrating touch CT dressmaker had
ever been laid upon it, IL must repre-
sent the elimination Of 3 purpose, the real-
zRtion Of a dream, or be the personthcation
OF fancy, else it has no attraction for the
average woman, or man either, for that
matter. Thus we see so much OF the belt,
the bodice, the short jacket. the full fold
they all help TO produce the desired result.
Last in the group of foir women came
the girl with the plaid silk-such an inn
mense plaid with such vivid cOloring that it
almost took ones breath away. 1t was
made very preutily, though particularly ct
the back, where three plaits, turning toward
the middle at each side, were drawn to-
Reher below the waist under a loose gold
belt.
Almost every other woman in all the
rooms that l wet through had some sort Of
jacket aTrar cement connected with her
costume. All sorts OF jackets we're they,
short or broad, or narrow or pointed. or
embroidered or psssementeried. or tightly
caught or loosely flying still they were
jackets, and they added jauntinsss 10 the
gowns IN all cases, particularly when from
within the jacket peeUed out fancy vest or
loose front of gauze or thin material in pale
color.
The Ruipure laces are growing so popular
again that one sees them on all sorts of
home or house or afternoon gowns. They
certainly trim dress wonderfully.
Before we leave the absorbing topic Of
dress 10 take up the still more absorbing
one OF bonnet. let me remind you that all
the dresses you order now must he of sim
pie, uDpretenuous character, because, for
one reason, 1t is Lent. and for another it is
not well TO trust capri ious Dame Fashion
to any extent just at this Juncture. She is
ready at present for almost anything, aud
we do not want to provoke her TO sudden
and disastrous changes. Therefore, for a
neat house gown, try this simple one Of the
Louis Philippe, made from a combination
suttlng, plain material and bOrdeF-skirt
slightly full. bordered with plain bands
above the embroidered border; the waist
is simply gathered tightly into a close fit
ting belt of material to match the skirts
band. yoke of embroidery is put in, end
where it joins the bodice proper two folds
o. the same material as the belt are laid;
the back of the dress, where they finish in a
point. At the front the plaits are drawn
into point by big buckle.
Or If you want q quiet walking dress
nothing is nicer than fine ribbed material
made into plain skirt, with two broad
bands OF passementerie, or embroidered or
contrasting material on the skirt. The
bands must be put on so far apart that the
upper one reaches the knee. Then belt of
this same border catches the slight fulluess
OF the plain waist, and narrower bands of
the same material form cuffs. Although
this dress is so very simple it ia remarkably
pleasing when worn.
A dress for a rather young girl can be
made altogether plain and tight fitting, with
five bands on the skirt. the lowest one mar
row, and each one thereafter gradually
widening. This also has plain, wide belt
and tight-fitting bodice.
But know you are more Interested in
the bonnets. All women are 1t takes
three times as long TO decide upon the
makeup OF tiny article but a few inches
in diameter as it does to decide upon gar
ment ever so many ySrds IN width. These
three dainty bits that | mus tell you of are
smaller that usual, which fact only makes
them more precious in our sight. One has
a brocsde crown and is trimmed in front
with folds and knots Of black lace, from
which spring small. straight loops Of pale
green ribbon. That's all there is to it, and
yet IL you saw 1t, you could not help desir-
ing 1t at once for your very own.
Then another has an emerald-green Rauze
crown, with broad ends right across the
front, made Of fine fancy straw; right in
the center is set big bunch Of tea roses,
from which rises full green aigrette. II
these two creations are small the third is
positively tiny, ltlliputian. 1t is green, also
the favored color-has a perfectly fiat
crown, and IN front two small velvet wings
that project over the hair, one at each side;
between them is a small velvet rosette, at
each side of the rosette a single rose, with
no stem or leaf, and sticking up from the
rosette two fancy pins, one at variance
with the other. So very simple is 1t that
you are surprised to discover what jaunty
air IL assumes upon your head
If you are blessed with plentiful looks of
good length, there is a new and very
pretty couture to be had for the fussing
with it. 1t requires a great deal OF fussing,
however. and a great deal Of careful mauip-
ulation to bring about the desired effect
| The style is so difficult one TO describe
| that the sketch of it will give you a better
idea than description. l can tell you that
the loosely braided hair is cooled
once about the head, that a portion
of the coil and another portion in a
smaller loop at the bottom, that innumer-
able little small curls droop from the couture,
and that some ribbon loops and bows are
also wound In with it. But shall not at
tempt TO tell you just how to hold your
hand first, how to take the second position
how to gather and dispose of the strands,
and all the rest, for am certain you would
be none the wiser when all was said. Take
the model, mirror, and deft assistant
and try it yourself.
EVA A. ScHryRERT