Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-12-22


trousers, and there is no rest for his tailor
until the scheme has been tried. In nine
cases out of ten the crank is dissatisfied
with the result after the work is done, for
the effect is usually extravagant, but he
sometimes originates a good thing. In fact,
he is the author of many good things"
To the eye of the laymen who wear them
there is little variance in mems clothes
from the styles of a year ago. In fact, the
changes are always more gradual than
those in the fashions for women. In gen.
eral way the styles of last year and this
year differ from those of previous years
mainly in the length of all sorts of coats
and the cut of the trousers. The latter are
now cut fuller than ever before at the knee
and narrow at the bottom. All coats are
now so outrageously long that the tails are
sure to look wrinkled after wearing half Il
dozen times unless you lift them whenever
you sit, and you mustn't do that nowadays,
it isn't FORM" and if you do somebody
will say that you haven't another coat to
wear while that one is being pressed. 1t is
a comfort to be able to write on the au-
thority of Mr.. Mitchell that the tendency
is likely soon to turn against such clumsy
and uncomfortable lengths.
4 In overcoats the Chesterfield, or fl front
prime favorite In light weights it was
made during the fall chiefly in soft gray
materials, though smooth faced goods in
blues, blacks and browns were fancied by
many. In heavy weights for winter wear
kerseys and smooth faced beavers are ia
vorites. AS the season advances softer fin
ished fabrics are likely to be more used
The form is slightly defined, though the
cut is moderately loose, and center and side
seams, with vents" to match, are about
equally in favor. The collar is velvet
Next to the Chesterfield comes the new
ulster, sometimes called the kennel, like
wise the paddock and also the racing coat
1t is comparatively novel except in some Of
the largest cities. 1t is very swell" close
fitting and long. The favorite materials
are venetians, covert coatings and light
colored, smooth faced fabrics In length Il
is about 80 inches for a medium sized man
The front is usually single, with fly, but
sometimes it is heavily double breasted
The hip pockets are crescent shaped, with
big flaps. The breast pocket is straight
with moderate flap to go in or out. Thu
collar and sometimes the cuffs are of velvet
The box overcoat is made from 46 to Al
inches long, hanging straight from full
shoulders, heavily double breasted ant
WITH very ueep venus. Inc inverness cap
is greater favorite than ever and is tn,
only coat to wear over evening dress.
should fall very straight in the back, b.
finished in front with a fly and close to th
throat, with Prussian collar or roll, as
Chesterfield. The material may be smootl
faced or rough and soft, but frosted beaver
are favorite, and black or very dark color
prevail. The covert coat doesn't seem t.
be 'in it., and nobody seems to be sorr.
because of its absence.
The changes in evening dress are Limited
mostly to increased length and more de
cided V shaped openings for vests. Fin
twilled worsteds, grapes, dress broadcloth
cloth finished worsteds and worste,
!, vicunas are favorite materials, the two las
, named being specially "swell" Peake'
lapels and shawl rolls are about equal il
/ favor, young men preferring the latter
The very liIest in lapels are silk faced
The vest, unless of white or tinted silk, i
single breasted. When single breasted fou
f buttons are used; when double, three Vest
2 of the same material as the coat are oftene
used than for several years past, but goo
dressers" still adhere to silk. The materia
of the trousers is IA little heavier than 70
the coat, and soutache braid is often use