Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1893-02-12
FASHIONS FOIBLES.
EXTRAVAGANT USE OF
VELVET AS AFFIRMING.
Woman's Waist TO BE Restored
to a Natural POsitiOn--Color-
ings of Spring WoOllens.


or, at least as the foundation or princi-
pal element.
Velvet is almost too heavy for this
kind OF employment when applied to
the majority of women; yet one occa-
sees a velvet toilet united to
figure and face which it seems to become
az no other fabric would. The women
who may wear velvet-not alone appro-
priately, but to positive advantage-are
those of queenly, imposing statue, VINO
have. however, escaped the fatal emdon-
Dojnt which curses them with the appel
lation large Nor is 1t considered
quite fitting that our demolselles should
put on this heavy fabric. Velvet and
diamonds are the privileges OF matron-
hood.
EFFECTIVE TOILET.
One very effective velvet toilet, worn
bv a superb blonde who presided over
recent DipsicGie and evening reception
as its hostess was conceived IN the EN-
pire STYLE. Tie entire back OF the robe
was Of velvet, in a shade something
LIGHTER than eminence-that is to say,
pale MISUNDERSTANDING the mror
effect. The train swept from below the
shoulders to an imposing length.
The brief bodice was formed 10y
a ccinture OF the velvet passing
across the front, covering a full
plating Of sulphur-cOlored chiffon ar
ranged 50 as to permit slight dccollefego
in the rounded form adopted with tins
variety of gown. The sleeves consisted
OF immense puiTs OF the velvet. The
front of the skirt (having no direct con-
uection with tho velvet back fell from
below the bust. 1t WAS OF sulphur-yel-
low Bengaline dc sole. a deep iiounce
Of the chiffon, headed with knotted
rope Of velvet and gold cord, finished
one of the distinguished costumes OF the
midseasOn.
EMPIRE VOGUE RESISTED.
II is to be hoped that woman's waist
is soon to be restored once more to It's
proper and natural position. The ty-
ranny Of the Empire vogue was resisted
bv women Of taste and sense on tins
side Of the water until further struggles
became vain, and was adopted with
reluctance. The knot Of Parlslan
designers. who. sitting aloof from
the world they rule, give laws
TO all womankind seem already IN
clined TO abandon tho mode at last
and are giving us some delicious Prin-
cesse models, which will DO seized upon
with aviditv for reception, dinner, and
house- gowns. They display square
yokca. terminating above the bust, and
ere designed expressly for the proper
setting by the tall, 1.-THE, long-lmbed,
slender figure slender, but not there
fore devoid Of those curves which sym
metrv demands which has been lattorly
accepted as the ideal type. These gowns
do not fasten in front or even NJ the
side. They are laced behind. Hence
the perfection of the fit.
Spring woolens reveal an avoidance
Of plain weayes. Basket 1igurings and
patterns, in which short parallel, undu-
iating lines run in all directions with
other variations OF a smooth surface
are observed. These variations are
however, in the fabric itself and not IN
the colorng, which is unrelleVed.
STRIKING VARIETY.
The colorings in the new woollenS the
Of the whole family OF
erays is the most striking Characteristic.
Thus We have yellow-grays, pink-grays,
blue-grays, slate grays, steel-grays, and
pale-dove tones There are many new
and charming standings.
French miliners produce bonnets OF
such extremely diminutive proportions
that one may say the shape entirely dis
appears and nothing remains but a
handful Of trimming put together with
an art that resembles carelessness. but
which produces tho most subtly fascl-
mating effects
The little bodice decoration known as
the Figaro" with its congener, the
&" Boleso jackets, have made for them
selves a decidedly prominent place III
the prevailing fashions. Many evening
hodIces have tiny tigarOs supenmpOsed
upon them. These are often OF velvet
and are sometimes varied eccentrlcally.
For instance. recent dinner toilet IN
pcaq dc Sole was finished with a velvet
figaro. which, instead Of terminating
above the waist, had its ends continued
downward on either side over the skirt
in the form Of long nbbon-like bands Of
velvet. These. a. well as the jaunty ht-
tie Jacket itself, we're borlered with an
elaborate passementerle OF chenille and
gold braid.
swAGGER STYLES.
Of tho skirt it may be noted that the
swapgcr sty lc-fD one Of the many
lately thrust before our noticc-iils as
closely about the hips as ats predeces-
sors. the f,,uyeau, and flares only at the
bottom, but there broadly. In fact, Ii
is very wide, the chief fulness occurring
at the back. 1t Is fitted with triple
cores on the sides. The crlnollne scare
has not as yet assumed any very definite
form.
OTHER FASHION NOTES.
Loie Fuller, the craze of the hour in
PARIS. has had Ter fame consecrated IN Il
dainty little street turtan.
The strap across the instep Is fea-
ture-and an unpleasant one-ot the
dancing slipper.
The wings or capes over the shoul-
ders-so long feature OF all manner Of
cowns-are continued in the designs
shown for spring and summer wash ~
dresses.
Borthas and "Toby frills applied to
children's house trocAs are particularly
pretty and picturesque.
Sleeves continue to be OF enormous
size in single, double, triple, and even
multiplied puts.
skirts bounced to the waist are among
the rumors.
Much lace on lingerie is regarded
with disfayor by women OF taste nova
DAYS. The garments are finished with
ruilles of the self material-hnest nam
SOCK. lawn, batistc, or cambric-en-
riched 10y hand embroidery and cut out
III vaudykes. etc.
Gloves for evening wear no longer
show SO great a tendency for the natural
suede shades as they did season ago.
On the contrary. they occur IN all the
evening tints 10 match costumes.
The simple tailor gown has by no
means disappeared, but Is suli dc
rigUcur for the street.
Drasidnnf Davis