The state herald., 1893-09-15
UNCLE SAM A TAILOR.
THE MAKING AND SALE OF
ARMY AND NAVY SUITS.


Aux o"'''
Uncle Sam takes paternal inter-
est in his soldier boys md clothes
them in the warmest and soundest
fabrics at u price that never goes
above cost, says the San Francisco
Chronicle. There are three clothing
supply depots connected with the
army. one OF them in low, square
building beneath the Palace hotel on
New Montgomery street, San Fran
cisco. This establishment. among
its many functions, makes uniforms
and uioderclothing Tor enlisted men.
Upon this kind OF work an average
of $50 persons are employed for
eight months OF the year Most of
the sewing women are widows OF
soldiers. Captain {. W. Williams
has charge of tho clothing and
cquipage branch OF the depot
and makes the inspections OF work
and material. A picce OF kersey
must be SOUND IN every oer OF IL
VIII not pass ms rigid test' me
cloth is tirst weighed to sac II IL
meets government rcqulfen ients.
Then 1t is run over reel an, ex-
amined from the diverse side wi tn a
strong light in front. II sin gle
hole or haw Is seen the piece Is DIS.
qualihed' A careful measurement al
the material follows and then tho
pulling lest Is made. This consists
In stretching process In machine
with dial. Blouse flannel to be
passed must stand pull OF twenty
three pounds to the inch. II itgives
way. even 10 the extent oil thread,
the dial pointer tells the story. A
| screening process Is used TO develop
the threads in the texture and ascer-
tain their number 10 pass exami-
nation each piece OF cloth must have
sixty threads to the inch to the
warp and hfty-two to the filing.
piece oil cloth is passed back and
forth before horizontal gas let and
the nap burned on men, with
heeoie' 'ne CRISP hoers are separator
"'iu 'ouh'eu'
10 ma OUT whether "ali WOO.
goods nave cotton IN them bath
mas peeh devised which eats tne wool
The hxity OF the colors is tested by
ACIDS "hen the material is pro-
honhcea SOUND ana IN conformity
with the regulations 1t goes to the
cutter. tailor and sowing women.
Inc labor OF each is examined almost
microscopicaiiy' ana woe to the per-
son VINO mas potched TASK Inc
RUE 'ha' wheh 'he clo'hing Is issued
IL must DC Us near periection IN
quaii1y' MAKE, Color ana staying
power Us any 'iihs ,hu. wcaVers'
ana uyers c'lh create 'd'hi's o' no de-
my "eioie
AN o".h. Vi eio'h.s 'es'cu anu
'iiuae IN 'his way Wouiu eon,i,ahu
premium S .ao men VINO wliinsiv
pay from y'v 70 Ffv SUI. ior 'heif
apparel &c. 'oe tolai cost oi .he
siothihg W .,o sv,o'",ic"' anu 10
lts customer '"o '"'is'eo man. Is US
'oiiows'
Fine flannel blouse, noncommis-
stoned officer, s4-S5; trousers, FL 9s;
total. SS.Sl.
White duck blouse. Sl.2l trousers,
sl.07; total. ". %.
Canvas olankct-incd ovcrcoat.
equal to buffalo ulster In warmth,
and impenetrable TO the wind and
rain, slG9a
Full iress uniform coat, noneom-
missioned officer. best qnaiity kerscy.
s.. A; trousers, S3.ss; TOTAL SEE
kcrsey ovcrc oat. win cape, lined
with fine warm flannel, vi o.
Corresponding prices OBTAIN in
other items of military supply.
Uncle sam. after buying LIS material
of the manufacturers and paving the
regular price for making It up, sells
the product ut cost Officers MI
forms are not made Mt the dcpots. bu.
kersey may he bought for them there
Mt $3.50 yard. Enough stock is
kept on hand for 300 men. and II in
cludcs everything soldier needs
from u cork helmet to an undershirt
Twelve sizes OF trousers are always
In stock and six sizes OF uniform
coats. In such an assortment re-
crui, usually finds a good 1T, though
IL nt nuppcHS W w VI UNCOMMON III
incnsiops no Is measured and his uni
form Is made to order, kcrscy cloth