The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1893-05-10

waist too, is made of these ribbons. The
sleeves are of velvet, have but one seam and
are tackled to the lining here and there to
form tiny puffs.
The second picture shows dress that is
we'll suited to a stout figure 1t is of black
silk with light gray stripes and cornfowers.
Black ribbon velvet trims the bottom of the
skirt and forms the waistband. So little
attention is paid by fashi n writers to the
needs of stout women, that give directions
which will enable almost any one to make
the costume. The skirt is gored and is edged
with two rows of velvet. The bodice has a
Ihort basque and it is worn under the skirt.
A little plastron is made both at the front
and back, ending on the latter about five
decends to the ribbon bow. The plastron
starts from the edge Of the shoulder touch
ing the collar and it is advisable to draw it
with pencil on the lining before cutting
the material. The back, side, and under
arms pieces are first sewn to the lining,
pressed. boned, and we'll stretched. The
plastron is cut on the straight and pinned
on the part marked out for it. the middle
being placed on the center seam and tackled
In position there. A piece OF material on
the cross is next taken and two p!ea,s made
following the cut line of the p,aston the
left. the material being drawn slightly over
to the right side at the waist; the pleats are
formed in the same way on the opposite
side and cross the others at the point of the
the plastron.
The stripes OF the dress must be disposed
in the way indicated in the engraving, as
thus they tend to decrease the apparent
size of the waist. Care should be taken 10
place them symetrically on each side, as the
slightest deviation has very ugly appear
ance; the two plests should be very deep so
that they do no pull apart. The remainder
Of the material is well stretched. and any
superfluous fullness take n into the pleats
If the dress is for stout person it is best to
cover the back and side pieces only with
the full material, making those under the
arm plain. In front the dress is fastened
with hooks and loops. The fronts are Gov
cred with silk cut on the Cross with two
deep pleats arranged to follow the contour
of the plastron, and so arranged that they
meet the back pleats at the shoulder. Those
On the left side terminate 1t the end OF the
plastron. and the silk is sewn down the
edges of the fastening first being we'll
stretched over the darts. The pleats on the
right side also start at the shoulder, but, in
stead of ending at the plastron they are
carried down 10 the waist terminating near.
" at the seam which joins the front and
under-arm pieces. The ribbon which forms
the V has its point of departure at the same
seams on its right side and is fastened at tna
point of the plastron with rosette. rede-
scending to the same seam on left side.
where it fastens with hook and eye. The
top of the skirt is edged with ribbon like
that employed for the V, and it is advisable
to fasten it under the arm, where the fast
ening always shows the least The sleeve
is best cut with two seams, as it is almost
impossible to cut sleeve in silk with only
one seam. as it is too narrow, except for a
person with very thin arm. The dress is
finished with a military collar.