The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1893-10-21

LATEST WAYS o MAKING NEWEST GOWNS.
tions is staggering, tits SO great and varied.
The cotton and wool mixtures are never
worth buying. and yet they look almost as
well as the all wool goods while on the
counters. But before the garment is fairly
made it begins to show its poor quality.
The all wool dress goods range from 80
cents to So per yard. Tn cotton and wool
sell from Is cents to 45 cents, but never run
as wide as the all wool. The same amount
of labor is required on one as the other, and
the same quantity Of lining and more trim
ming, SO that considering the difference in
the wearing qualities it is always cheaper
to buy the best. A dress of solid color or
modest mixture in cheviot or some other of
the nice woods is always ladylike and gen.
teel, and can be cleaned and made over in
definitely. The cotton and wool sees no
resurrection.
There are silk and wool mixtures, and
these combine with each other to mutual
advantage. These mixtures are known as
silk warp henrietGes, fayettas and one
grade of brocaded wool. The first two
named are in some respects handsomer
than any silk, notably for mourning or ele-
giant church or rich visiting gowns, and the
latter is much liked for plain reception
aACSSCS AO1 C10CI4J Ad01CS WIZ uO AOb WISH
to wear colors or bright silks and who yet
want Something a little more dressy than
plain surfaced goods. But the brocade is
not as durable as the plain silkwarp, which
is stronger and more lasting thar any other
material made. 1t retains its beauty to the
last thread. 1t can be taken apart and
washed like a piece of calico and ironed on
the wrong side, and it is a new gown again
when remade. 1t is the one ideal hand
some fabric for adressy black gown. The
fayetta is more like Japanese Grape, while
the henriette has a cashmere finish. The
fayetta is very pretty for young people and
can be had in all colors, but the silk warp
henriette comes only in black, white and
gray. They are half wool and half silk.
The silk and linen mixtures form the
Irish poplins and many of the corded silks,
and l think most of the bengalines. The
thick thread is linen, and the silk is woven
over it. 1t makes a rich fabric, but must
not be wet, or it will shrink almost out of
sight.
I believe there is a line of decorative silks
where silk is mingled with sea island cot
ton, but l know of no dress goods of those
two textiles. The price of silk has SO dim
inished that it would not pay to buy any
but pure silks when a silk gown is desired.
The silks for this season are nearly all in
small figures. stripes or plain. The bro
cades are very beautiful, showing small
but perfect patterns. The grounds to near
ly all the silks have a changeable or MORE
effect beneath the pattern, and the output
fairly blazes with brilliant color, of which
the royal puppies, deep blues and greens
are the favorites. The colors are, however,
not confined to them, but we find any
amount of browns all in the tobacco shades.
The old seal brown shade is now called
nicotine" The yellows are those found
in spots on fading tobacco leaves. The
bayadere stripes are being bought SO rapid
ly that it is difficult, / was told, to keep up
the stock. These are wide or narrow black
stripes on a pure white ground, and the
white ground is MORE in rich waves.
One exceedingly effective design of this
style which was shown to me had a thick
MORE ground of mat white, brocaded with
satin oval rings, and beneath these rings
was a jet black stripe which had the ap-
pearance of narrow velvet ribbon woven in
and out. There were also two favorites in
satin duchess in silver gray, one with fine
broken branch pattern inwoven, and be-