The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-23
An AMERICAN IN EUROPE.
Observations Upon the Life and Politics
Of Twenty-Five Years Ago.
ny THE LATE
ny THE LATE
JAMES SHEP ERD PIKE.
Nice.

The Empress OF Russia is visiting Nice Il
her health. She lives In q villa belonging
private citizen OF the town, and her attont
ants occupy two or three adjoining dwellings
all picturesquely situated. The Empires
drives out In an ordinary open carriage. cal
yving with her one or two children and q singl
attendant on tho box with the driver. He
equipage 10 quite inferior to that OF some Q
our Fifth avenue notnbilities
The Promenade Anglaiso is q great featur
Of Nice. 1t 10 a broad street. or esplanade
extending along the border Of the sea arount
tho entire crescent which forms the sea from
Of the town. Here everybody walks. or rides
or drives. and tho scene for many hours In thu
day 10 always gay.
Fine eauipaaes are numerous. and the Eng
lish and other equestrians make an excellen
display OF horsenesh. The carriage OF thu
Russian Empress differs only from others II
that her coachman and valet display the roya
cord depending from the shoulder. Thei
show OF gold lace boars no sort Of comparison
TO that exhibited by the English nobility. espe
eially when they are In London. The old roy
atty OF Europe. always excepting some In Cor
many. Is very much disposed to adopt simple
fly OF costume. rs well as OF manner. except
on official occasions.
1t Is due to the aristocracy generally to say
they are not an ill-disposed class. though a
, worthless one. And one may we'll pity the
snnui OF their lives. Exempt from the
necessity OF bodily exertion. without intcllec-
tual activity, and thus destitute OF internal re-
sources, cut of from social and political activ-
tiles and the rivalries and occupations which
give zest to the ordinary currents Of life. they
doze away their lives In round of frivolous
pleasures. wearisome from their monotony,
until one who witnesses their empty and artia-
E elal existence learns to regard them as deserv-
ing Of sympathy rather than envy.
An old English baron. who rose from the bar
to his distinction. said: Il sometimes think
how glad would be to throw back all my titles
and decorations to the Crown. and go back to
my old profession and raise the old sign Ali
] WAS 30 happy then!"
The amusements OF this old town of Nico
are very different In this nineteenth century
from what they we're in the neighboring towns
Of Arles and Nsmes 100 years ago. Now
some instrumental music. OF course OF excel
lent quality and some displays OF "feux d'arti-
fce." Of an ingenious and beautiful kind, en-
terrain royalty and the multitude. and no one
goes away unduly excited or brutifled.
Seventeen hundred years ago the subjects Of
the old Roman empire hereabouts thronged
TO nll the vast smphitheatres whose remains
still stand. where. instead OF music and fire.
works. they behold wild beasts and gladiators
In deadly struggle. or prisoners and criminals
torn IN pieces By the ferocious animals there
turned into the arena.
Doubtless the entertainment was much more
exciting. and the theatre Of its exhibition yet
stands as 1t has stood through successive
ages. while tho simpler entertainments Of to-
day will leave no monument and will be for
gotten as soon as enacted But civilization will
give its preference to the evanescenr form.
The Russian church here. a very imposing
structure Is In the form Of q Greek cross. the
centre surmounted by a large dome. In the
interior ono OF the arms Of the cross Is cut of
from the rest Of the edihce by large and
highly elaborated screen going up to the cell
ing. The screen is in deep panel. with central
folding doors and a smaller door on each side.
The entire screen was decorated with figures
Of saints and Christ. The crucifiS Is no.
where to BIO seen. Behind this screen. which
10 opened for the services. Is a modest altar.
There are no seats in the church and no pull
pit. Three or four priests offlciate. Their
dress is a green velvet cloak or robe .spangled
with gilt crosses. and the upper part, which
falls over the shoulders is sheet of solid gilt.
The services consisted Of chants or recita-
lions performed mostly by one OF the priests.
who had the most prodigious deep bass voice
ever heard to issue from mortal throat. The
priests passed continually back and forward
through the various doors Of the screen. which
were sometimes opened and sometimes
closed. An inner curtain was drawn before
them when closed. which could be seen
through the wide crevices at tho top.
Tho priests swung censers. on which incense
WAS burning. and carried in and out little
boxes covered with golden napkins. Ono OF
these was carried on the head OF the big. bass.
voiced priest The operation was akin to the
trundlinR Of the host by the Catholics.
The service on the part OF the audience con-
sisted In occasionally kneeling. sometimes
quite to prostration. and in n perpetual cross
ing Of themselves after the manner OF the
Roman Catholica Four choristers stood in
Q sort Of prisoners box on ono side. and
helped at intervals In the service: but thsre
we're no musical instruments OF any kind. no
homily. and no discourse.
The Empress had a seat in a corner but
stood and devoutly crossed herself during
much of the time. She had two small children
with her. both common looking. and ono Of
them Of n very ordinary appearance.
Two nshtail banners stood In the church. in
the two side arms OF the cross. A Puritan ex-
periences the same feelings In viewing this
style OF worship that he would In witnessing
the ceremonies OF any old pagan temple.
At the close OF the services the Empress ad-
vaneed and kissed something which the huge
bess-voiced priest brought half way to her
corner. She 10 u very Notwithstanding woman
OF ordinary height. rather slight her forehead
high and full. and the lower part OF her face
rather sharp. Twenty Just such looking wo-
men can DO found in any New England town.
1t was not till the I'D o: February that q
little piece OF Ice was shown at our table as q
curtosity-fhe first seen for tho season.
The carnival, as celebrated ut Nice. 10 SIM
ply harlequin show. in which all the popula-
tion apparently who can afford 1t participate.
1t gives great opportunity to rowdy fellows
Of both sexes to exhibit native proclivitIes.
1t Is interesting as being continuation Of a
fete that can be traced half through the Ro-
man into the Greek civilization. correspond
Ing to tho saturnnlia OF ancient times
II lsthe Calithumpians OF our Fourth OF July
on large scale. People dress In masks and
In every grotesaue costume that the invention
Of the most ingenious can devise. Stuffed fig-
ures are mounted astride Of horses; carriages
are driven by clown positions; men dressed
AZ women parade on foot. and act AS coachmen.
H. a n u