New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-02-19
"CIVIIRE TO THE GENERAL"
A CHEAP LrXTPY.

The old smile o. the poet which has outvci
more than three centuries. may pass into nudity
before the Injurious tastes Of the day. Cavllrc
which has been esteemed Il special luxury 10 The
general public, IS now becoming a thing Of cheap
manufacture in this country. II Is made from the
roe OF our native sturgeon and Is retailing In some
Of the cheap groceries low eighteen cents
box. II Is by means equal TO the genuine Rms
sian caviare which sells for about three times that
price; but II answers for those who anxious TO
secure the latest luxury at the lowest cash price
and who are better acquainted with names than navOrS
II Is a matter OF regret that much enterprise
should be shown In the pursuit OF Ouf-Oi the way
Injuries tdbts OF cookery when there Is 50
little Intelligence exhibited In the cookery OF meats
and other substantial dishes. 1t wOnld De interesting
TO learn how many people buy this cheap cavllrc.
merely for the purpose Of saying that they have eaten
this famous Russian dish. and who yet serve II on
the table with bcefStcak cooked In manner that
would suit the kitchen Of savage. We do not need
uxurics but do need more Intelligent cooks
and more sensitive palatcS. We have some Of the
best beef in the world In New-lork city; and yet a
bccfstcak, serYed as II IS served by the BeelsteaS
Cmb, by few Of our best restaurants. Is an
unknown thing in private families. unless there Is
expert French chef In the renue OF servants The
average becfStcak has not been hung long enough
when sent TO the kitchen; but. II It prime
meat II would be ruined by the crude processes by
which II Is usually cooked. When it IS not fried
Heaven spare the mark 1T brocd In the most per-
funciory manner. In nine kitchens out Of ten. the
meat Is not properly trimmed. but IS pat on gridron
as # comes from the butcher. II Is laid the
Goals and left work out its own processes, first
on one side and then the other. The result l.
that the steak Is filed with the favor Of the nokng
fat and IS quite likely TO be- burned and alto
gether It Is rendered unit for the table it posi-
bly, could be-
Now a steak or a brace OF chops must be we'll
trimmed. some fat Is AWAY, left the herf,trak,
unless 1t IS q tcndrroin: but tc chop~ Should b"
trimmed quite free from all suspicion Of tallow They
should be- laid the gridron. held close 20 blazing
bed Of Goals. first side and then on the other,
10 scar the surface Then they should b"
raised from the fire about three or four Inches They
must BE- turned every two minute
When a steak an inch and hall thick ha, cooked
twelve minutes II Will usually be- ready 10 serve.
Every time drop Of fat falls In the ir She steak
must be- lifted up 20 allow the ldiIr 10 pas, of. II
the dainpcrs are all turned on. they should be
in brOlng. thi, will take but instant Bcct,teak
and mutton chops Away, improved BY rubbing
them with little sweet OIL seasoning them with
salt and pepper and busting them with nour before
they are cooked. Nothing show, quickly refinement
In matters OF the table the proper cooking Of
simple dishes.
A cursory Investigation Of grocery stores where
people OF the most moderate means ar" the cuSioer'
shows that such Injuries cavilrc pat" ior graz,
ported Holsters, pottcd chicken, and other potied
foods are confined 20 rich mems table. hui find
ready sale among comparatively poor people. This
fact, combined with the fact that the demand Tor
the palmer cuts Of meat comes from the weather
families whose cooks know how TO make them Into
palatsble bralz-s and ragon's, suggests one 81 the
wealth feels no los, Of dignity in asking for an Inferior
OF meat such rs an American labprer- vile would
he qnite likely scOrn. 81 the most delicious
and Appealing dishes are made not nom porte. h3is
steaks which SCH from twenty i've To tw"nt, eight
cents a pound but from the cheaper cuts OF the leg
and shoulder, which retail ~ about one hall that
tuice. The sweetest Cut OF cOrncd beef Is the
brlsket that sells al eight or ten cents not N" rmp
that sells at sixteen. Education and intelligence In
market and culinary matters are sadly needed, but
We need cheap luXuTes.