The herald., 1893-10-20
WOMAN'S WORLD.
AcRlTIcIsm or ORGANIZED ATTEMPTS
AT DRESS REFORM.

pennsylvania and women-Lucy Hooper's
Last Letter-A Notable Russinn Woman.
Which Would You Rather Be?--womcn
Iron Worisers--Let In the Sun.
If short dresses arc worn, there must
be reform in the interests of wo1nanli-
ress and grace. II long gowns obtain,
rreform must be instituted in favor Of
health and cleanliness. When skirts ex-
paal. statesmen shout for a reform that
will secure sufficient standing room for
the nation. When they cling, the cry is
s..',l reform for the sake of modesty. By
nQ ingenuity can fashion contrive a
platform that reform is not anxious to
knock from beneath her
A yc A,r two ago popular reformtook
the shape OF aNsbusiness wotnan's DRESS"
although why. business women should be
any reader than anybody else to ticket
ther'selycs by wearing a.special style is
not aaparent. If woman has herself
md CHEERS to support, she has s'quite limi-
itasioAs enough created bysher circum-
stances not to submit to an artificial re-
etricsion in SO pe-sonaisa matter as that
of her wardrobe. Tho women most
publicly in favorsof arefortned attire for
working women were aadies who them
selves had ,littleSto do except theorize in
their drawing rooms. Itdid not seem to
cccur to them that their sisters less for
tunately situated might object to adopt
ing class uniform which would accent
the difference between them and the
lilies of the field.
One of the oldest. among the late
freaks Of reform is ltheftrousers conven-
tionat Chicago, as Sf the gathering togeth-
er OF few coqnettish experimenters in
costume could have any appreciable in
E.uence over women ut large in making
them sacrifice their own .fancies and re-
auirements in theway Of dress. Trou-
sers are convenidnt, but at their best
they give woman the look OF SOU
brette:at their worst-that is, when she
is smiddle aged and stout-they rob her Of
her mature dignity and rendor her a
laughing stock. The grace and stateli-
ness bestowed by flowing garments is
universally recognized-witness the
robes of Office and church vestures worn
by men. Although the latter adopt
trousers as their ordinary dress, they can
the better bear the severity of the attire
that strength rather than beauty is their
natural adornment.
The skirt lends dignity to woman's
shorter stature and softer outlines that
she can i'll afford TO lose, and she will
probably continue to wear it, despite the
rt.ormers, as long as she retains the
us hetic instincts and reserve which are
characteristic Of tho majority Of her sex.
Tho advocates OF still another scheme
% reform earnestly recommended the
costume Of their invention onthe ground
lat it completely concealed the form"
without seeming to realize that their
movement was reerograde instead of
progressive. Why not at once declare
in favor OF the dress Of the women of the
harem, who never appear in public IN
less they are completely veiled from
lead TO foot?
In land where women are admitted
to have not only soul, brt intellect, and
arc therefore respected, there can be no
Icssiblc reason for mufiitig the figure
on. Of al senlblancc to wonlanhood, and
,eto--1els who are guilty by lmpllca-
iica Of such disrespect will never have
largo following. Garments are worn for
warmth and covering, and what beauty
they possess is mainly borrowed from
tho body which they cover and which
is the reason of their being. Conceal by
drapery all indication of its shape and
movement, and there remains merely
clumsy mass of cloth, devoid of mean
in; or individuality.
Theabsurdities and distortions of dress
are greatly to be condemned as sins
against the principles of hygiene, there
fore against those of beauty, but it is not
necessary to wear startling or hideous
garments in order to be clothed health
fully. A woman Of sense and artistic
perception can dress conveniently and
becomingly without departing SO far
from the reigning mode as to make her.
self conspicuous, and women will no
doubt keep on exercieing their own taste
in the matter despitelall Che conventions
that can be called by young and pretty
enthusiasts Isabella Proctor in New
York Advertiser.