Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1893-01-06

LII N
DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING SHAPE AND Low
WAISTS.
dotted line shows where to cut out to shorten
waists.
needful, now that the pointed velvet belts
are in style, and they are too pretty to be
discarded soon. The fullness is all gath
cred at the bottom outside of the darts, and
at the top there is no neck size cut, and the
length is then carried to the top of the
shoulder and gathered. The front lining
should be sliced off at the neck and hemmed.
and all the rest treated as usual.
The gathers should be sewn in under
belt, and this latter should have the lower
edges turned in and the skirt gathered
and sewn to that
Where the skirt is to be quite full, which
is now the style for thin dresses, lining
of silk or sateen, of the prevailing color, is
made and finished off and worn under.
The breadths to the outer dress are cut
straight, and the skirt should be quite five
yards around a little longer in the back
and simply hemmed. A pretty finish is to
have a ruffle of the same thin goods, with
still narrower and fuller one under that,
set on the under skirt Ribbons can be
added if desired.
The neck can be finished in any manner,
but Just now berthes of lace or chiffon or
of the dress material are used, and there is
practically no limit to the variety of trim
ming one can use for light dresses. Tulle
and Grape, null and India muslin are all
made about alike. Jabots of lace are
pretty, and are made by gathering lace
very full, giving it a shake and then fas
tening it as it naturally falls. Never try to
make it fall as you like, but fasten it
where it falls itself. or you will lose the
effect
Festoons and light effects are to be
sought for in thin materials.
The most suitable sleeve for a plump
arm is simple fall of lace or the dress ma
terial. For thin one a long bouffant eff
feet, open, If liked, at intervals on the upper
part of the arm, fastened with tiny knots
of ribbon, or a sleeve can be a series Of
puffs held in place by bracelet bands of
ribbon.
Wash gowns should always be made with
a view to their looking as well after wash
ing as before, and to that end the good
dressmaker should aim. Cotton goods
whether zephyrs or sateens, should be plain
and neat, graceful in model and perfect in
, fit. All cottons, except sateens, are pretty
with tucks or bias bands. Sateens require
more elaborate trimming, such as cuffs,
, collars etc, of velutina or lace.
Silks require Il different treatment from
any other material, and if it is possible to
, avoid it a hot iron should never be put on
silk. Black silks. the heavier and richer
kinds, like armure, peau de sole, faile and
grosgrain, should be made as plainly as
possible, their richness showing better
! when little trimmed. Black silks, being
alike on both Sides cut to good advantage,
but as it is apt to fray the seams should be
rather deep. The waists can be cut after
the model waist and any trimming desired
added. Nothing is more suitable or ele-
CANT than beaded passementerie unless it
is little real black thread lace; therefore
avoid cutting up the silk into rufiles and
: broken bits. Let the skirt be plain, but
ample. Bind it with velvet, and, if desired
add narrow puff or rose plating around
the bottom. Pay more attention to the fit
and style than trimming The richest
gowns are those made plain, but perfect.
Silk waists should never be quite as tight
as they could be, for the richer the silk the
worse is the habit it has of stretching at
the seams. All the light summer silks can
be made without these precautions, but
even they will not Stand stretching.
To finish a handsome silk dress properly
The waist seams should be bound with
lustring, the ease belt be nice, the loops
for hanging up be of ribbon and every
stitch set with precision. The finish of the
best dresses sent from abroad is about as
nice on the inside as on the outside, anC
/. nearly all very handsome silks are LINED
x with black or colored glace silk
|. The facing should be carefully made, a.
told before, and on the inside of that are
now set two or three narrow pinked rufile,
of glace silk, and beneath this again is
balayeuse of black lace. When the lady
prefers her dress unlined there is sill
underskirt cut on the model lines and about
four inches shorter than the dress. Thi
has one l0-inch ruff!e on the under side
pinked, narrow plated and hemmed, one
on the edge of the skirt and two to five mar
row pnked ones on the outside. Sometimes
these are alternately Spanish lace.
Velvet is not so much worn for dresse.
as it was, yet there are many elderly Ladies
who like it better than anything Tht
!. same rules that hold good In the making
7. of fine silk gowns hold good in regard Z
z. velvet. But in making velvet the seami
should be pressed, and it is done in thi,
r wise:
A fiat iron, pretty hot, is turned upside
down and held firmly in its place. A damn
p towel is laid over il, and us the steam arise
= the velvet, seam down and spread open, Il
n drawn over IL, and is pressed SO that tn,
,. seam is not visible. This is also good wher'
T. the nap is pressed down, or to make owe
old velvet like new. OLIVE HARPER