The morning call., 1893-02-06
MAN AND HIS CLOTHES.
The Startling New English Dress Coat
and Other Matters of Moment.

CIOthIer and FurnIsher.
The new dark-gray fabric which Is being
made into dress suits for the advanced Lon
don swels, however it may strike the con-
servatives AS absolute heresy against the
orthodox ensemble in vogue al present. APP
pears to be pronounced ''go" over there
Ii is offered as most important encroach-
ment upon what is deemed the ensemble OF
the full dress. That there have been recently
in this city with several OF the leading Gus
tom clothiers orders for dress suits from
similar goods is matter Of record. There
Is difficulty 1t appears in getting the cloth
one downtown tailor having sent abroad
several months ago and received the reply.
supply exhausted"
There will be the usual hue and cry from
all over the land just as soon AS this intelli-
gence is spread broadcast. The dress suit
has been held inVolate, and all lBcursl0ns
upon It's s0mber stateliness and dignity
have been resisted with great rigor, result
ing in Its triumphant maintenance. Ii is
fact that the early acceptance OF the adven-
turous American swels that have seen this
suitlng worn for several months abroad
v0uches favorably for its continuance.
Moreover, there has been very salutary
effort to keep the details in making-up as
much in subjugation as possible. No gar
nishment of any kind is visible. There are
no buttons On the sleeve, which Is made
trimmer above the waist. i he finish Is in
one row of stitching close TO the edge. The
lape is rather chic. being narrower i'll d.
mansions, but just as deep in the roll, and
of the notch type. In place of the two bulls
eye buttons behind, which have no meaning
and have not been correct since the side
arm was banished, there are crOwsfeet IN
black silk at the jointure Of the tails to the
waist line. So essential is the bOut1nniere
deemed that some Of the ultra tofS have
had the upper buttonhOle made larger, on
an almost perpendicular slant
1t is apTOp0s to say that the reason OF its
adoption by swelldom at the British capital
was that the men were utterly tired Of the
eonven tional suiling, with its half-doZen
variations of collars. lapels, etc., for every
real bowling one Of them has a half-dOZen
dress-suitS at least, so that the one that is
worn shall DO fresh looking and well
pressed.
As TO whether the CIother and Furnisher
ratIhes the change, the reply would only
signify that 1t is favored from the character
of the cloth and tho suiting as described In
advlces from abroad, but 1t should be seen
on before any positive sanction could
he arrived at. 1t is one step nearer
the decorative epoch certainly impend-
ing, and held back because the
pion4er for the clique that want the change
Will not arrive. There should be hreeches
and hose for the men these days, when the
women are CARRIED Ike granddames and the
demoiselIes are costumed in the period Of
frippery and brocade.
1t appears that the English intrOducers
Of this notable and. | may say, hazardous
tangent from what has been regarded
as the immutable full-dress regulation
cos ume contend that wearing, as they
have, the somber black every night,
year in and year out, as an Eng
llshman does. they became desperate
over the trteness of the apparelment and
d. I'D 49,, fah 10
spoken of as being close to the beaten track.
and yet a relieving change perhaps the
forerunnerof other more striking differences
In the current 'all black" regime