The Caucasian. (Clinton, N.C.) 188?-1913, 1893-09-21
HOME DRESSMAkING.
Trg BASQUE IS The FOUNDATION
OF ALL DRESS CUTTING
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The basque t-eing the foundation Of al
tir,-. cutting. the novice should learn 81 the
very outset all its possibilities With
good diagram of basque fitting in n-ss-
uremsnt the prospective weaver Of the gar
m~nt planned one can cut n princess robF.
wrapper Of aay style, q tailor gown. nd
ing habit an evening dress blouse als-
Fer and q coat Of any description The prtn-
ci2ie in exactly the Same, with such xar1A-
tions a. she sxigencies Of the case may TO
quire. IL ne.sis but Ia he heightened to
make tight euat or ulster and TO have Its
different parts lsngt hened and widsnsd to
form princess dress
To do this tine d iffereut parts should be cut
To four inches longer than the skirt from
waist downward and the front pieces cut
on a slant - that the bottom Of each front
measures ~ inches, the front side pieces the
same, the back side CORES ". and the back
breadths should measure the whole width
of the goods, and If that is narrow another
breadth should be added TO the back and
plated in close so that the whole skirt
may fall free and open in the approved
shape The four inches extra length are
taken Up in fitting to the figure.
The princess should be tried on with the
seams outward and fitted like any other
waist. The skirt is to be faced with wigan
or crinoline about l. inches deep, and 10 the
inner side is stitched facing of linen or al
paca, and where the dress is very hand
some one several narrow pinked rufftes are
sewed to "a silk foundation and cat stitched
to the wigan.
Riding habits are cut In the same way,
but the lines are drawn rgldly and with
angles wherever they can be introduced,
notably the square high collar and the
square Positions and square pocket lids
In cutting jackets the dressmaker only
needs to know the style wanted. If REFER
or blazer, the basque is heightened, and the
darts are not taken in. Pockets are added.
If long jacket is desired, the same general
rules prevail, and it is easy to make one
with strict attention to the pressing and
care that all outside stitching should be
perfectly straight.
Blouses are cut like the French waists,
but the lower part should be three to four
inches longer, cut perfectly straight around
and hemmed. An elastic is then drawn
through, and the waist buttons SO that the
superf1uous length falls down over the top
of the skirt.
Bolero jackets, Elton jackets and figaros
are all cut from the original basque pat
tern. For Eton the waist Is outlined with
the two side back pieces and is cut down to
point just overlapping the gathers of the
back of the skirt and cut in front like the
diagram, and it Is easy to cut, as it is per-
fectly simple and seamless Elton jackets
may or may not have sleeves, but if they
do they should be plain coat sleeve gath
cred rather full at the top, having a suspi-
cion of gigot only, and they are worn over a
shirt waist.
The bolero is cut just like the Elton in
front, but the back is all in one piece and is
cut straight across.