New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-12-22
A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
WHAT TO HAVE AND HOW TO COOK IT
FULL DETAILS FROM OYSTER;
To COFFEE.

In the good old DAYS when the Christmas dinner
was served on the table both the housewife and the
cook took much greater and pride IN us prepa-
ration. \ common remark of the COOKS nowadays
Is What IL the use OF making things to look nice
when only the butler them?" Thcn the hsh-
with his head and tail left made to lie
comfortably in a bed of parsley and OF 1e'iy' 50
clear as 10 suggest his native element; anu the
! time -horcrei turkey. with his wings modesuy
/ tucked away behind his back. brought TO the taoe
done to that delicate brown when only cAi'iu'
ard FREQUENT basting produce, was enough 20
mako one hungry. even II came to the
! table without n sign Of an appetite. y ias'id-
ious old lady a member of one OF New-Norks most
! di-tinguishcl old families and one VINO had peeh
an invalid for years. with appetite even for the
delicacics prepared for her by her faithful nurse
vas heard 10 say IF could only have Christ
mas dinner such as used to have when WAS
girl, But II would have to be all put on the taDe'
and the turkey stuffed with o!dfashioned stuinh8
! of bread crumbs and sumrler-savory, ana theTe
should be gravy too. and plenty Of vegetables ana
| stcv,ed cranbcrries, not cranberry jelly. Fortu-
r,tel, che had an old-fashloned housekeepcr who
had the courage to fight IT out with the Frehchnai
! who ruled the kitchen. 1t took good deal OF
/ pcrsiasve argument and authority TO accomplish
! IT, and then be positively drew the line at s'uhns
| n turkey with bread crumbs. or even oysters
| .AIarrons' he might considcr-but this was an
| American dinner and "marrons' were not IN
| ~" 40. he would give up his place before ne
| would 80 degrade his profession" However. the
| position was good one to be given up even
| for 50 serious a as stufiing turkey. 30 ne
gracously consented to compromise with the house
! boomer who was equal TO the occasion ana TOOK
| the turkey busness into her own hands the old
| fashioned dinner was served in as nearly m old-
| fashioned way possible In these hew-iashione'
times even 10 the heaG of the house carving the
much -discussc1 turlsy himself Every one "as re-
,oiced 70 see the invalid sit through the whole din
| nor and eat more heartily than she had done for
wears because as she said. at looked ana smeIcd
onnetiz!ng" II was her last Christmas dinner ana
| the mex, year the Frenchman prepared and served
his dinner he chose.
Here arc n few suggestions for n coniortao'e
Christmas dinner for about twelve people
II ore does not care to go the expense OF hav-
i,r I. decorated by florist; pretty effect may be
made With little money. some work ana taste Inc
dining-room OF n country house where mousse
marty has assembled may be made most attractive
and all the work done by the young people OF the
party and it affords much amusement TOO.
Have the gardener bring TO the house small
load OF greens: these into boughs small enough
10 be handled easily. stick some behind the pictures
by fastening two three 10 the wall or bacK OF
a picturc with a small tack. or tied TO the picture
wire they make sort Of framework Tor others
ca that quite a large background for the pictures
can be formed DO the same over the doors Inc
entrance from the hall 10 the dmnS-rooin can DC
made especially pretty by standing quite large
branches at each side Of the door frame ana bud-
ing the green framework wider and higher. ana
farming a large arch over the door simply by
fastening the greens here and there with me "'Ne
lacks and FINE green Irvine one VIII be SURPRISED
10 find how tho boughs hold one another IN place
and how few lacks need hc used Among tnr
greens stick bits OF holly with its rel berries. I'th'
the table with candles. II YOU hly" whit" candle
sh.dca stick Jew holly leaves and berries on
them. An cxquisiicly dainty decoration this year
has for centrcpiece large basket loosely con-
strucied OF holly branches t~ineI together tr
foundation Of pastcboarl 81 entirely hidirH ny inc
holly and Is strong enough TO hold nat TN hH''
with moss and ferns The little individual bonoon-
narca are small baskets fashioned nke the ccn'r--
niece the little boxes being filed with choice candy
spr!gs OF holly and OF mlsilctoc FOR each Of the
guests complete a wonderfully pretty decoF"'io"'
and one tina; can only be used once in the year.
Here is a menu FOR an easily prepared christ
INNS '''''' oysters on half-shell
Boiled salmon-sauce llollandase.
Cucumbera
Stcwci sweeibFeads
Brciled mushrooms.
Roast turkey-Cranbcrry sauce.
Potato croquottes and spinach
Salad OF tomatoes with mayonnG!se
F F1s,1 1 Fs@S"
Have your oysters opened about hour before
dinner; sprinkle lightly with salt and LET them
stand In the ice box IL an earthen bowl never IN
tin II you have not regular ice-crishcr' break
some ice into small pieces with the cepick pui N
4 strong linen bag or towel and pound with a mall
L.; until fine enough. FIJI your oyster plates
with this ice. nbed the shells Ia II AID set the
plates on a large tray out Of doors Ions enough
FOR the shells become frozea firmly into the ice
Just before dinner Is announced bring IN the tray
Of plates and put the oysters On the shells nnI serve
Is quickly as POSSIBLE as not to give the ice
nj he q.
however melt nearly SO quickly as the ordinary
crushed ice. which. when used al this way leaves
the oysters submerged in water before you nave
eaten half OF them.
For the clear soup take six pounds OF clear
beef cut from the lower part Of the round and a
knuckle Of veal; add about six quarts Of water,
cover closely and Jet boil very slowly all day Nhen
It first boils up skim carefully. strain through
colander and let stand I'll morning. then skim OF
every particle Of fat. Add one onion. a lew STALKS
OF celery a few leaves each Of thyme. bay-leaves
and parsley and six whole cloves Boil all together
slowly for half an hour. then strain through a
soup-bae napkin The soup must be absolutely
clear When needed for dinner, bring IT TO the
boiling point and add wineglass Of sherry Just
before serving. Egg balls are often served with
clear soup and made by boiling six eggs until
very hard throw them into cold water and when
they are cold take out the yokcs and beat them
IN n mortar II you have one or rub with wide
blndci knife until perfectly smooth Season well
with salt and cayenne pepper, add the white OF
one uncookod egg and roll into little balls the size
Of Il cherry; they mag be Drowned In hot butter or
used as they
The first requisite Of FISH IL that II should be
fresh one often hears people say. why Ia 1t that
they cook fish much better at seaside hotel
than anywhere c,sc?' II IL not that the nsh is
cooked any better, but the fact that In hour from
the time It f. taken from the or lake 1t Is be-
inC prepared for the table. Salmon should be put
into warm saltcd water TO preserve It's pink color
Allow about eight COR II a very thick fish. ten min
utc8' cooking TO a pound. Add the juice OF one
lemon and boil slowly; do not let 1t stop boiling
for a moment or 1t Will become water-soaked and
lose It's flavor. Remove from the water at once
when the time allowed for cooking is up and lay