Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1893-12-10
TWO DRApED SKIRTS.
HOW TO CUT AND MAKE THEM WITH
THE AID OF A DRESSMAKER.
The Bell Shape Revived and Is Worn In
Modified Form-Olivia Bells
Home Cheap Methods.
Correspondents OF the Dispatch. ;,


NEW YORK, December 9.-The very
latest skirts are draped. Although there
are yet many gowns made without dra-
perry, the really fashionable ones show
some little, even when they are not made
with double skirts both back and front
An those OF US who make our own gowns
will do well to drape the new ones. even
If the made-over portion of the wardrobe
is more severe. Once overskirts are given
a start they are apt to increase and de-
velop for a considerable period, and the
dress made with drapery Will remain in
style longer than the one without.
The bell-shape has been revived and Is
worn in only slightly modified form, the
very latest out. Women Of fashion found
it's simplicity too becoming to let 1t easily
slip away. and the very richest gowns
from Paris show its graceful outlines and
the bias seam up the back
The simplest draped skirts are made
with two bells. the outer being shorter
and fuller than the under. and may be
either all OF one material or OF two. The
two diagrams given below show exactly
how the two skirts are cut and just
wherein the difference lies.
II your material is heavy stuff and you
wish the entire gown TO be alike, lay 1t on
the lining OF the underskirt for distance
Of one-half yard from the bottom and
trim with braid put on in points or with
a narrow rufle at the feet
If you wish a combination gown choose
silk, satin or velvet for the petticoat,
putting IT on either in deep pleats or cut
in the circular founce.
In either case face the skirt with an
inter-llning Of hair-cloth for the depth of
half a yard, only do not stiffen the back.
II you wish plain skirt or use the
apron front which ] will describe further
on let the hair-clOth extend up the back
| TO within two inches Of the belt, but do
not make II deeper than eighteen inches
| i'm the front You will find that the back
widths take the desired set and that your
skirt viii be quite correct.
CUTTING THE UNDERSKIRT.
To cut the underskirt first get the exact
| length Of the front and compare that with
the diagram. If 1t IS forty-one inches
the average length-yOu will not need to
make any changes at all. If ii Is either
| longer or shorter. cut Off or add to the
| bottom and keep the proportions ana the
slope always the same.
The line I'D represents the told OF the
| cloth and makes the centre of the front
gore The line &c represents the hrst
| seam, and is gored on the edge OF the
| front, but straight on the edge of the
| back The line de IS straight. but the
! line e-f Is slightly curved.
If YOU lay the cloth down and mark on
! ON II the exact measurements the slope
! ON IL must he right. The fold a-d Is
forty-one inches. the gored edge &c Is
! four and one half; the straight OF the
| back. also &c. is forty-one and one hali'
| and the bias back b-f is forty-three
| If you note all this and mark it off, to-
| eather with the width of a-c, the width
! Of c--b. and the width Of de. and e-t-
the same pieces-at the top you cannot
| possibly so wrong.
! When the lining Is basted on and the
two seams all stitched. try on the SKIRT
| and III 1t around the wGst by means OF
! two small cores, one at d, and one az -
|. then gather what fulness remains at the
| back between the points and l. ana sew
! on the band.
| CUTTING THE UPPERSKlRT.
To cnt the overskirt follow the same
, general rules, but note all the slight dlI-