The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1893-10-30
THE SHAFTS CAPITAL.
Difficulties Attendant Upon Entrance
to the Famous City Of Teheran.

Edwin Lord Weeks, in 0darper's Magazine.
When approaching one Of the world-famous
cities of Asia one has always at least a mo-
ment of faint surprise at finding 1t so
dwarfed by its environment of giant noun
tain barriers, often quite hidden until one Is
close upon it by some fold Of the ground,
and so Insignificant speck in the sur
rounding desolation. The "Kazbin gate"
by which we enter. Is a modern structure
with enameled bricks. Abdullah, having
been a custom-house officer, and knowing
how to deal with his brethren. succeeds
admirably in getting us through the gate
without having our baggage overhauled.
We enter dusty and glaring new quarter,
and turn into crowded market place or
vast extent, labyrinth of booths and stalls,
shaded by the most ragged, many-colorsd
and Enthusiastically contrived awnings imagin-
ing multitude, clothed for the most part
in patched and faded rags, steering the
jam of donkeys and ragged. weather
beaten camels, among piles OF
ez ha ass9 and neat sbrs Tuo0se
turn into n dark corridor leading TO the
bazars of Teheran. How long were en-
gagged in slowly threading our way through
the interminable and dimly-lighted aisles IL
would be difficult to estimate. Progress was
necessarily slow by reason of the crush,
which seemed to exceed even that of Ia
breez, the continual acknowledgements with
camel and mule trains which we met on the
way, and the disputes with shop Keepers, as
our projecting chests and tent-poles con-
up in front of their shops. But every step
was full OF novelty and charm. We lin
gered for a moment In front OF fascinat-
ing cook-shop, where great jars were sunk
to the brim in a clay counter after the
fashion of the wine shops In Pompeii
few old tiles sparkled like blue and yellow
gems placed irregularly on the wall, In It's
bituminous depths Further on, a veritable
European shop displayed secondhand furni-
ture and brave array OF gided chairs
covered with crimson damask. passage
opened into a great rooted warehouse, gilt
tering with huge crystal chandeliers
and quantities OF cut-glass ware from
Vienna. Then we clatter out into the day
light of an open street, and our horses shy
at the unwonted apparition of tramway
car, such a horse car as one meets In the
streets of Boston in the summer time,
with transverse seats, freighted with Per
slams, half hidden by the Tapping white cur
tans. A high archway, decorated with
plaques of modern faience representing the
NEUROLOGICAL heroes of Iran and Persian
soldiers of to-day, leads TO the great oblong
square known as Tup-Meidan, and we pass
under II and cross the square, leaving on
our right the richly decorated palace of the
Imperial Bank OF Persia From this point
the different tramway lines start, and there
Is a veritable cab stand, with old and bat
tered fiacres. This square may be said to
country, and without further detail il nigh,
be characterized ar astonishing medley
OF cheap ano SNOWY faience, of tinted and
succeed facades of German descent anu
of all that Is meretritious, pretentious and
grotesque, recalling, in a measure, an ORR
entail background at the Opera Comque,
where the TajMahal. Benares, Cairo and
Ccnstantinople are hudiled together on,
canvas. And yet the whole effect is novel
and interesting