New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-04-02

more abroad In the German restaurant than IN any
other. A possible exception might hc made IN FAVOR
Of certain places where everything about ~ French
as it could we'll be- but French cooking Is so familiar
all over the world. ard especially here In New YORK
that those features OF II which were originally us
pcclliartcs are scarcely be regarded unusual
In any OF the better restaurants OF THIS cty "Nc'p'
the German and even In some OF these French words
are 10 he found the bills OF fare because the
things which they represent French In their
origin and have yet received names In any other
language ru, even this exception applies only to
the cooking and the service. When the nature and
comp -ition OF the company In attendance are con
,idcrrd II will he noticed that among the guests In
the French or the Italian diningroom large ma
jority speak only English. and that 1t is tie usual
language Of the place. while In a German RI 'ort ire
German language Is chiefly spoken ana most oil 's'
pue.ts look rs II II came natural TO them.
Articles on French and Italian DINERS which re-
Gently occupied these columns treated exclusively
Of tables dhotcs. and fDr the sake Of uniformity TINS
one may begin that way, but rs II goes ON II VIII
huvc To lose Its cXcusvcncs'. for the German Is not
so hosclcssly addicted g the table d'ho,c habit as
his n, lglbors across The Rhine and beyond the As
What the German wants +, something solid TO eat
and sometLinr liquid ana gaseous To- diink ana plenty
of both lie j. not particular about seven courses
al an average price Of scvci and onc'sev'h'h Gems
cach Yet there some German tables dHot''' '''
urctty good There l. the one al th' ii"'''
,t,,c,-i, for instance Though the name u the
Mace l. no, German In the Slightest sense the d!nncf
t.clf is moi much unlike that TO bc had nj til" tahi'
a'hote of a r, reasonably good hotel IN Germany lh'
roasts are better. To be- >urc, for ih" cooks nav"
learned from their proximity To IN" COOKS 81 "'"'r
land, hrr. In Ncw-lorl. what the most "l '"h
trade I'm German, do not know, That r"asth' meat
doe. not mean simply leaving II IN not place u"
4, get. thoroughly hard and dry. But u" soups ar
=. German ~ possible. and preserves 90 with the
mas, and the salad quite II th" fruit had grown
and the dinner been served on the banks oi me
Rhine. Then there mr." III" Wines VI INC h""' an"
q ~. Mo.ellc and also Of Hungary. and the products
If ne vines Of France are NJ discount h"' o'''
poctic and d.ecable vintagcs are not incudp w ''
nrIcc Of the dinner. nor Is the dinner Itself 10 D'
had for the fifty cents which nj 80 many "th'r p"''H
I'm ,ov.r all tha, a strong cares 10 eat ana
drink such rs II T..
ANYBODY who chooses 10 sit NJ any sort OF reason
abb. table dho,c in an ohscrvant nhd 'hough'i"
mood will probably find much to occupy Ills observe"
tim and his thoughts. lie may. perhap' none" 'hh'
when II party Of Two or more SITS d""h ~ ''"''
tho walter by solte occult and inscruiable method
nick. on, one Of them the host ana treats MN hs
,, ,it, the perfect confidence Of man who has
,.vor made a mistake and sees no reason 10 suppose
,ho, n. ever will. How he does u hobody A"o"s'
.,me,imcs he Is Hight and sometimes ne Is WRONG
I'm, his own air OF nfallbillty Is almost 'ho"s" W
con,>pc. n man who knows h. Is wrong that he m"St
,i For
seots together No one OF them makes any sign OF
sn,,,c himself AS n leader among them. and no
ON. gives any sign OF recognizing any other ms
,codcr or a host. Nobody orders Inc uihher' w
cause all the ordering that Is 10 DE- "oh' - o' e'
,o ,xuress bis individual choice Oh soups TIC "'''
in lac drunk t. chosen after general d'se"'s'o" "'
o voiter ovcrhcars. and no one takes III" Lead III
W., lac his own my sterlOus mental process the
,,,o, docId.s mon one Of the four whom liz
,oos.s IN regard as the entertainer OF The o'h'r
thrcc He pits all the dishes before 'hS one 'o'
him 10 serve he pours the first Few drops Vi WHO ,'
This ones glass then fills the glasses ol III" o,"'H
and Games back 10 the supposed host hnaiN nc o"e'
lin IN. bill and expects ,is own Up from MN an"
from nobody else student OF thi' great proo''''
, ,orc and profound study. once came to the con
,,,on tbn, the choice depended on comparison VI |
IN. hair of the various guests. me r'"' m'''' "
,houpbt he had discovered was 'hht "'".'","
waiter selected that man among several "S NV "'
,rho had the most hair on his face ana 'ha' ~ ''S,
~, . II. I'm this respect he chose the one VINO hau
~ ,, hair ON his head. A long observation oil |
ur,, walters I'm different restaurants SHOVE"
,si.,.nt adherence to this rule. but al last u was
,roken and subsequently II was broken several '"'
I, might be- OF course, mat us No'''io'' ""' ~
tho Ignorance or carclcssncss OF inc ""''e'S anu -, I
a,,or ru, has been found that stands Tile tests vi
experience rs WE'LL 49, a., hoonor |
rh.rc are German tables d'hotes Of the ch'"p,'
-, ,,, ,bov are not nearly so numerous as Tue
~.
rnc, ar the Italian, and they are altogether "'"'
an, In character and spirit. There Is no, the '""e
,.rv.us anxiety about them to turn out 'he s''
si,,. number OF dishes nj gwen pficc' " Wv
rhoo, rrencb table d'hote nobody ever ''''' t''
- ,no,bcr he Is drinking logwood or some'n''s
os. and the same spirit of doubt pervadcS he ""oe
.,nnar .Iogvood!" "a guest ut one OF 'h''" was
I'D IN excla,m the other night. " they eah amor"
80 nm, ANYTHING 50 expensive rs logwood ih'o '"'s
s,,T. they color II with the skins OF fed o''o'S
rhor, IL none OF this in the German dinner
Therc Is no wine included In II. 10" Gun o'"e'
,.a. and nav extra for it-imported beer u ~" are
=" COO, place-or You can have Rhine wine ny ."e
r,.ss and Rhine wine gives no opportum', io' ,os
- or oo,on skins either. You VIII perhaps n.'
.,, served with an abundance OF sohp' so'' "''
,oorod I'm a way that Is n defiant Challenge 10 you,
,,,. IN come forth and show what IL eau u" "''
ao,,,,isb. an entree q roast. or P'I""P'
a,,,c. be,wccn the two; salad, che'se' 'o"'e "
,ossbly some petcnce at dessert pu' "e''.f'' "'
M, ,hc strong points OF German res'""'""',' Wv"
,,s hos, ~ them. and the less you expect inc less
con will be disappointed Another peculiarly Vi
many Of these places Is that the dinner y e,Neu n."
,na middle OF the day. In true "er""" ss"' al"
,oh,e d'liotc supper at somewhat S"'''e' P'''' "
49,, ,srol New. York dinner hour
put II is not at the table dho'e u. ~. "a' ~.
IAN es.tronomc character expresses Itself. ~ ]"