Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-11-14

rhouldors Looae wrappers have the waist
cut IN the same way with the skirt cut on.
but In measuring Tor loose wrapper an
allowance Of fiK inches longer than Do up.
parcutly requires should be- made no the
bottom, aud this afterward can be- pinned
Mp 70 come Just right. a. skirts ~ wrap
pors somehow take up" unexpectedly
M side seams must be porcd, aud n i1u o'
one breadth uf the material should ha oct
IN with the back seam.
Princess dresses arr simply blsquc7 with
skirts, aud by drafting the basque follow
Ing the Indication Of the lines, always allow.
ing any slant 10 fnll backward, u perfect
fitting princess will be the result IN u
princess the skirt should Do long also. and
only hcmmcd or trimmed when the whole
~ sewn. 30 that IL may not take MP and Boz
too short Riding basque are made onthc
same lines, with the sole difference Of rigid
plainucss IN trimming and position
backs. which are formed By allowing tho
back forms 10 extend longer and the fr0uiH
cut shorter than ordinary basquos. The
little positions NJ the back arr faced all
the way up with the material, and two
silk buttons are put At the waist line Ike
those on mems coats, Jackets are cut ON
the same general lines as the basque, only
half an inch larger on every seam, and ug
much longer ~ Is desired. Pockets eau hH
added or not, and any preferred style 81
trimming put on. one dart only-the
back one-is ever added 90 Jackets Bone
IA necessary if one prefers u straight
Blazers are cut IN tho samc general style
but without darts and rather narrower
across the chest The length and width
depend upon individual taste. Plain
leg o. mutton sleeves Rows Of stitching
form the most suitable ilnish 90 both hlH
ers and Jackets Hlousos arr cut just like
the plain gathered waist, but from the
under arm sleeve line they should measure
twelve inches and have plain hem
through which IL drawn a tape or elastic
20 gather them 40 that they cSn fall over
meeting the skirt
In finishing Oh a riding habit basque Il 81
customary 60 have the lining Of stout linen.
with the seams pressed Hat and bonod "a
usual, but u IL not necessary to finish the
seams on ~ neatly, ~ lining of quilted
satin IL sewn Ia aud neatly tcllsd over all
the seams
Tailor made gowns depend FOR thoi.
beauty upon the eKactuoss Of every line
and every stitch. Every seam must ho
pressed lst before another l. sewn, aud
then When the whole Is finished anal
pressing should BE- given II. Not wrinkle
should form upon the waist, Whorrve-
the seams anish Ike In position basque
an arrowhead of silk u worked, a. also az
the corners Of pockets. Skirts for tailor
gowns are Just now cut sheath fashion,
with all the fullnuaz In q fan plating At
the hack aud with several rows Of stitch
ing around the hem Of the skirt. They
hrc frequently made without lining par
ticularly when o. serge or cloth, and
faced ~ the bottom The facing Is made
Of wigau. ov0rlnld with linen, and this
again covered with alpaca. all stitched to
gcthor and faced on Ike any facing, leuy
ing tho edge or the dress next the ground
a narrow braid is put on DAT under this,
but 10 docs not show from the outside. But
with The return 81 cooler weather Innings
or foundations will be used. and they can
be cut and sewu up with the skirt seams
OF separate, us before, Ion which case the
iucings and braid go GA the lining. and the
skirt b. hgmmri n stitching b. 90 take "a
prominent part q doubled piece Of nsunrl
should be- laid under tbo place, and whore
the goods are stitched the seams Obj 1w very
prttuly
No person can do good work without
tools, and the humc dr-ssmakcr ought %
have one OF those little frames 20 hang
skirts ou Tor tho purpose Of dr1pIng thrp
The foundation skirt u thrown over A..
and the dressmakcr wants to fashion %
"wrinkled trout This. simple o. Go ap.
pears IL really the hardest thing 90 do
The only WAY 90 get Il right is Co
take the piece Of goods and bring one end
mp irum the floor where the rest lies, and
pin Il with the fold Co che center OF Che
front ut The waist Then bring the two srI
yage edges up 20 the hip waist line
aud let the wrinkles Tell naturally, stick
ing pins Boo 20 hold Them until ready 90 Bow
thum. About tlrra deep pI1its un each
hip viii form, falling forward The bot
tom then can bee Tackled along husting
following the liue Of the skirt The top
should then be- trimmed away, all the while
keeping The pins ll Tie plat. end then