The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-11-05


before foot is set upon its huge, hard
| 0uays. The feeling instantly possesses
| You that you are in city ana among a
/ folk that have not let all manner of mod
/ ern notion run away with their olden pos
I sessions and ways. There IS sense OF
. amplitude and almost beuignIty about
/ these wide OLD structures of the sort one
feels when coming unexpectedly into a
| house with capaciOus and CHEEKY ire
/ places still doing their nOspitable duty;
and the people themselves impress YOU.
[ even before dealing with or knowing
/ them, with a personal consciousness OF
/ simple integrity and measured-paced con-
/ tent that irresistibly puts sunshine and
/ benignity into your own heart, and leads
/ you on 10 each successive experience
With a cheeriness and good ma
! ture mutually reciprocal with your
/ self and every soul YOU meet In all
| other wanderings my own experience has
/ been that never came TO strange people
/ or city without indefinable anxiety, faint
! presages Of unforeseen ills, and fOrebod-
| ings Of unhappy discoveries, happenings
and scenes. Not so with Norway. You
may not know the language Of her PEG
| pie; but every face that is turned to
yours seems so frank and unrufhed;
! every eye that meets your own IS so
steady and clear in its friendly candor;
and every salutatiou, dealing and new eX-
ItEiGihtC 5GELllS 81 ul4d4ltNtEAl, LbLGob anu
genial; that you move forward to each
days doings as in an atmosphere of benii-
| cent heartside calm.
You will secure Il still finer view of red
rooted Bergen and envirOns than from
your steamers deck by leisurely wander
| ing up the magnificent mountain road
called the -Nie-the DRAINS
Way, because built from the profits de-
rived from liquor license revenues rising
along the grand slopes of the Floifjeld
nights dominating the city on the east 1t
is a stone road making five great bends
before reaching the brow of tloifjeld; but
from this point the lights and shades play
ing upon the city roofs transforms old
Bergen into curiOUsly wrought entaglio
of coral, set round about with the lustrous
emerald of foot hill and valley verdure
and the cleaning sapphire of the sea.
Gradually the chief object of the town
come into prominence. The most ancient
portion of the city is beneath you. There
is the Tydskebrygge, where the Dutch
looking houses and all the quaint memo
rials of the Hanseatic league. Here the
steamers lay alongside in the broad
Wage. Across the Wage or harbOr, is
the modern built city with its Strand
| paade-its Regent street or Broadway
! with its fine shops. the warehouses, Gus
tom houses and other buildings for com
! merce and trade. Behind these to the
south are the cathedral, public squares
and gardens, the cemetery, the leperS'
hospital (the only object of dread in Nor
way, the villas and gardens of the sub
stantial merchants, reaches of bright
/ bays which nearly surround the city, and
| then poisoning valeland, above which
| circle the everlasting hills Seward, the
| eye rests upon dim ribbons of blue wind
ing away into misty tiOrds, interlacing
| between maZes of islands countless and
! beautiful TO the far and serrated horizon
rim.
| Probably the most characteristic scene
| in Bergen is down here at the Tory, of a
| Saturday morning. This is the ancient
! FISH market. 1t is an open space in the
| quay, precisely like the fish market at
| Newhayen, Edinburgh, at Plymouth,
! England and at Galway, Ireland; but
| few fish are brOughtashore. The stalls are
| the iagts or fishing boats, and there are no
| bowling tiShwives. Hundreds of peasants
! from the surrounding country, dressed in
! the peculiar costumes of their respective
| districts, come to the Tory to sell vegeta-
| rude articles of home manufacture.
! Mingling with these are the honest house
| wives and maid servants of the city.
| 1t is a CHEEKY, chatty, hearty crowd ;
/ all life, animation and geniality; glitter
| lug with quaint old gilt and silver Orna-
ments; colorful from bright garters,
| gaudy bodices, saffron and scarlet Shout
! der ribbons, lustrous braids of yellow
! hair, snowy white caps, and head-ker-
! chiefs glinting with silver gimps or fine
| old embroidery Every woman who
| pail or scuttle, often ornamented in gaudy
| cOlors. The fishermen standing in their
! boats say never word. They are the
most silent and sodden statesmen you ever
knew. The women do all the bartering
and chatting. When satisfactory price
is reached, the fish is tossed up to the
! buyer, and the coin exchanged. And sc
with pleasant badinage from the quay
and utter soiemnity in the boats the sales
90 on. But think of fresh cod, salmon
mackerel and turbot selling at the Bergen
Tory at but from four to six cents PEI
poundl
The more modern streets of Bergen are
! spacious and wide, and all are match
lessly clean. Nearly all the houses are
of wood, large, rambling, roomy, anc
every window is gay with boxes and pot:
| of flowers. Not even in the tropics are
| moro flowers to be seen in summer. AL
| vegetation here seems to take on added
beauty and luXuriance in proportion K
the brevity of its outdoor life; and Nor
wegian folks are fond to passionate ten
derness of every leaf and bud and bloom
| for its seeming responsiveness to affection
ate nurture and care. Every open space
is filled with trees and shrubs. Every
street or thoroughfare yields vista, Dor
dered with green and ending in the blu,
of the sea or blossom of flowers.
Many of the older structures are yer!
ancient and curious. Some of the old
time villas and homes on the outskirts ar
interesting for their suggestions o
wooden castles where there was posi-
BILE occasion for defense. The timbers ar
something mighty in these; and the out
buildings for servants and vast store
houses on pillars Of stone, all tell thei
tale of generations of master and folk an,
servitors living in little communit,
capable of protecting its own integrit.
against any manner of offensive aggres
sion or harm.
Over in the Finnegaard on the Tydske
Bryce, in the region of mountains o
barrels, fences decorated by drying cod
fish and all the curious gear of the great
test tishing-mart of northern Europe, still
stands a single Hanseatic house tits tn
only one left in Bergen where the old
time German traders lived and tradet
almost like a parcel Of pirate monks. Tn
straugest of rude carvings, painted il
barbaric colors, bedeck the interior TIL
merchants Enthusiastically carved an,
paneled Office. the managers must
bureau, the celibatic clerks living room
and dormitories remain Just as they wer
I once used The 1attNr ara ynt,Xr vpiC1,