Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-12-16
ART OF GOOD APPAREL.
Passion for Dress is Commend.
able
The Fitness az Things should Ne
sooied' However - The American
Manner of Wearing Jewels.
From the Chicago Herald.

From the Chicago Herald
1t has often been said that all women IN.
terpret themselves by their attire I, 4.
certainly the fact that a woman we'll dress-
ed according TO her ideas is more svmns-
thetic, agreeable and serene. In her very
consciousness of being well eoyaed she
inadvertently becomes self-unconscious All
women possess love of dress and adorn-
ment but such sentiments do not come
solely from vanity; hers is a passion for all
things beautiful She delights I'm all tex-
tiles: in fact. all woven stuffs An old h,e
OF embroidery or a Jewel becomes essen
tial to her; she delights as keenly In these
feminine luxuries as she does in the song OF
thrush or the perfume of a rose Such
Is the Inheritance from Mother Eve, who
wisely chose the exquisite and velvety fig
leaf for her rainent because Il had beatty
Oh form and color. There are. unhappily, q
iew women who seem wanting in a delicate
appreciation OF all things lovely. but they,
too' can become susceptible to the beauties
OF nature and art. II they only will.
There is danger. however, I'm over educa-
ton In this direction but with a moderate
understanding of the fitness Of things the
sensual viii never dominate the intellectual.
and desire to dress well is by no means
the worst desire that can fill the feminine
neart. Fashions in dress and ornament are
very ike history. constantly repeating them
serves. Countess as have been the altera-
ions In the fashions Of clothing and orna-
ments none Of the earliest ideas have ever
been lost.
Today We have q style that Is decidedly
composite. 1t combines the modes Of the
thirteenth century with those of the nine
teenth century. Today are worn the Medici
collar and the hip girdle OF gold and silver.
richly set with precious stones The large
sleeves OF Queen Mary are in vogue minue
their feather cushions. The circumser.ncs
OF some skirts exceeds any worn since lie
civil war; and yet there are women that
grape themselves In garments that display
every outline OF their figures The lines OF
mats are those that once graced the READS
OF hemorandts subjects. Napoleon's noble
prov and the charming head of Georpiana-
duchess OF Devonshire: as well as the
smallest OF French bonnsts that NAV be
aptly called a conrection. Ii would seem as
II, with SO many periods OF fashion to Sc
lect from the women OF America might be
letter gowneo; however. their gowns are
less Objectionable than their manner Of
wearing jewels.
The wearing Of a gem as an embellish-
ment TO cloth frock amounts IN this nine
teentn century TO a mania Such a custom
savors OF our predecessor, the red man. Bis
nature reveleo in many colored glass beais
and quantities OF them. He wore his prirn-
itive ornaments as frequently TO adorn his
blanket as his dusky skin. The ring of
mowers Is pretty custom. but there are
occasions when even these most .oyely of
earthly gems cannot be discreetly used for
ornament. IL was not an uncommon oc-
currence during the worlds fair, the hap-
penlnSs OF which are still fresh In our mem
cries. to see a woman costumed In a heavy
tailor suit and chic bonnet wearing at her
' .Mroa az or on her bonnet strings. diamond
wi 80 49,
one Oh the notable features Of the occupants
Oh the assembly rooms In jackson Park
Jewels Are for the Night.
Jewels are for the night, and even WON
at that hour should be used with Judgment
The average woman of today, at a ball or
In box at the opera. looks very like an
African princess. or IL she had borrowed
all the family heirlooms that she might
scintillate on at least one occasion. II does
not appear to be an effort to please or dare
the eyes OF others. this redundancy of splen-
DOR. but rather a matter OF self gratifca-
tion- There has never been Q time in The
history OF fashion when the use Of precious
stones has not been excessive. Their ten
dency is to diminish the charms OF a beauri-
ful woman. and 10 call attention to the
giaring defects Of a homely one. One of
the first lessons a woman learns Is TO the
value OF beauty: she be denisd such
heavenly gifts. she must learn the art OF
softening her misfortunes. and not exagger-
ating them Fashion is a relentless ty-
rant, II may be. but her laws are aot en-
tirely despotic.
There mas been Of late too promiscuous q
mixing of various colored gems. The blend
ing OF stones with different costumes should
be as harmonious as the notes OF col3r that
help to compose a lovely picture. The COM
bining Of many radiating stones in one arb
Gle OF jewelry usually terminates IN a garish
result The placing OF opaque gems with
those OF great br1lliancy is always exquisite.
occasion should govern desire in this mat
ter OF Jewel wearing Superb ornaments
are only permissible at the most formal Of
social functions. Ii is a serious breach Of
good breeding for a hostess TO bedeck her
self in costly gems.
There are moments when the observer Of
women's costumes wishes profoundly that
the somebody" responsible for the fash
Ions OF the civilized world would turn the
wheel Of his imagination backward. and re-
turning to a former custom. prescribe an
established dress. The worst feature Of
woman's dress today is that which is q
transcription OF the wearer's regret that
she was created other than a man. Such q
woman carries her sorrows not only On her
garments but in her expressions. which. IL
the truth be told. deiile even her mannish
Clothes. The wearer OF such a costume In
habitually seen at luncheons afteInOop
teas and receptions. She is the most con-
spicuous person In the room. IL the ne
elects to take her umbrella into a craving
room her hostess is to be cOngra tuiatei.
She grasps the hand OF a friend and cfvei-
opes it in a soiled walking glove: Il IL bad
form to wear clean ones. The other hand is
either In the depth of a pocket or resting
her hip IL there was raison d'etre in this
masculine costuming its existence nHsht
be pardoned. but SO long as women con-
tinue TO wear petticoats II has no advant-
ages. Its plea is its comparative chezpness
and comfort: such excuses have all the con-
sistency Of a soap bubble. In such raimellt
a woman completely effaces herself.
There are in Chicago many women WHO
dress extremely well. but aot well -
they did several years since. 1t IL now tie
fad to buy costumes ana head coverings IN
New York. Before the distance between
Chicago and Gotham was made only a mat
ter OF twenty-four hours. our women were
content TO purchase their spring and au-
tumn outfits here. They then considered
each frocx and its appropriateness to their
individual style. Now they 30 10 New YORK
look at 50 much In a limited time that their
ideas become confused; they forget even
their own cast OF features and form. They
have lost their fascination. which consisted
In their originality. IL is but the repetition
OF the ideas and the habits Of the New York
women who consider themselves badly
gowned II their clothes are made on this
costumes made in Paris and London that
the women In those cities would consider
passe. Chicago women are dressed in NeS
York under the same dishonest SYSTEM
Why not be Individually stylishG