Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1893-08-02
DRESS OF THE NINETEENTH
CENTURY.
[Ardern Holt1

White was much IN vogue IN the
early days OF the century, worn with
.olored spencer. They were short
vaisted, and the junction of skirt and
bodice was hidden by fold Of the ma
terisi much as 1t is worn now. Hussar
hats with high crowns, trimmed at the
,ide with a huge plume OF feathers,
bad q bordering Of white frills framing
the face, being, in fact, q cap, which
was then called "cornette;" but the
curious part about 1t was that the frIlls
were continued from the top Of the
cap to the front Of the jacket which
,pened N-shape. and 30 dlssp-
,eared.
In 1917 horizontal stripes we're in
!rodUced on dresses, and were carried
40 to the knee, and there seemed to be
zeneral rejoicing that silk Was much
more to the fore. The large yeils Of
white and black lace. which were
brought down over the face only as
required, were beginning to be q neces-
sary accompaniment to every bonnet,
aud happy people who now possess
them Ind they are almost large
enough to cover the front OF the
iress.
In few years the modes begin to
approach more nearly to our modern
notions. Wreathes are worn in the
evening, short dresses and longer
bodices, which, as q rule. took the
form OF corselets, of some colored
satin with white sleeves, and with
trimmings to the upper portion OF the
bodice. A good deal of attention was
bestowed on the trimmings at the edge
OF the skirt, which consisted mostly oil
cross-cut pieces OF material, full, and
caught down at intervals with bows
which were surmounted by bouquets.
A dress of white net over white satin
had blue bodice, turquoise ornaments.
and corn flowers. The favorite colors
were pink, tea, pearl grey. sky blue,
jonquil, and vermiliion. Turbans we're
made OF metallic gauze, ornamented
with SILVER, when it rejoiced in the
name of the Waves of Pactslus"; in
gold it was called the ".:ands OF Pac.
alus.
For driving, the outdoor garment
we're in themselves q dress, seml-st-
ting, made With pelerine capes, and
elaborately trimmed down the front.
The hats were then called la Marie
Stuart, but looking at them, should
consider them to be q bonnet worn
over frilled cap, and exceedingly
wide in front. Those who criticised
fashion then lad good deal to soy on
the undue length Of the waist, but, in
truth, We should consider them short
7ow.
Egyptian taste prevailed in orna.
mepts, and the HAIR was plated, to
which there were many objections.
The bun that We are trying to discard
had prototype in those times. 1t was
garlanded with roses for evening wear,
and bordered with jewels; but it was
also supplemented by q hearse-like
plume OF feathers in front, which would
crush any ordinary matron in our day.
Turbsns were worn by elderly wo-
men. These we're expensive articles OF
dress, and were made Of gossamer ma.
terials in bright colorings, forming the
foundation for O liberal display OF
| Jewels.
Another favorite form OF trimming
was q couple Of rows Of bias bands OF
stuff drawn through the incisions in
the skirt, forming series OF pufhngs.
| There was no room for pockets any
| where, and everybody carried q reti.
| cule, made to accord with the dress.
Sometimes the gowns were open at the
neck, ard were filed in by q double
cross-cut handkerchief Of gossamer
net, very softening to the appearance
of the neck, and fashion which old
aides continued for many years.
These bands were frequently caught
down with roses, made of white satin,
as they are often now used for the base
of feathers in millinery. Above this
there were p.umes arranged in semi.
| circtlar fashion.
A Court dress worn at this period has
ihe petticoat # white satin, trimmed
with peach-colored satin, matching the
train, which is bordered at the base in
the same way. A diamond buckle
fas;ens the waistband of the short
bodice, and the peach satin train il
evidently shorter than We wear them
now. But it is to the headdress that
| would call your attention. II consists
of dozens of pIumes encircling the
| head like An nureola, and shows whal
| VIC may come to, if we once begin 70
indulge in supersbundsnce OF festh-
| ers. The then cbroniclers of fashion
speak in admiring terms Of the new