The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1893-01-22
CLOTH TOQUES ARE CHIC.
And In Addition to This They Are
Easily Made by ANA
. tours.
But tho Full Dress Bonnet Ia q
Thing Calculated to
AppalL
Description OF Some Of Them VERY Par.
isian In Tone and Construction
Other Things Fashisnable.

IS PIN
For hsadwsar. wherever a simple and ser
viosable bonnet 10 needed, cloth toques are
very chic and should be easily made BY tho
amateur. A frame, a piece Of cloth Of
what color you will, and a bias strip OF
black velvet are the materials. Lay tho
cloth ON loosely in plaits; bring the fulness
and . long corner to the front. whore draw
II together ~ II to. wiring II, give ii q twist
and tie in . knot. or else fasten with .
buckle; shape tho end like an sal and lot it
stsnd upward. Finish with the velvet BAN
dean. Bonnets are made in tho Same way.
] have seen Z charming one of scarlet cloth,
rays . Paris correspondent of the Cincin-
hati Tribune.
But the full dress bonnet il q different
matter 1t il Of such stuff as dreams are
made Of. Its center in many cases has dis.
appeared altogether and left nothing but a
dllet with an ornament in 'front.'. Hhorn Of
strings, rich with jewels and lnoe, it has be-
como solely an ornament, . sort Of q top
knot or finish to the couture. Strings have
been discarded partly because they are for
eiRn to the idea of An ornamental head
dress. and partly because they were in the
way of the high collars now in vogue.
The statement is not true which I have
heard made. that young French women do
not wear bonnsts. but only hats. These
little headdressss are the proper and indis-
peasabls wear for all ceremonial occasions.
Some illustrations taken from Nine. Car
liss's hats, which are representative in
Partisan millinery. indicate the midwinter
voguss. An elegant bonnet from this house
10 formed Of q wide Rllet OF strung pearls,
with pink velvet crushed into a rosetts-like
mass in the front. and a slim black pompon
rising psrpendioularly on either side.
Another one 10 . soft form of black velvet,
with q frill around it of cream guipure lace,
which masses high in front and 10 parted in
the center to leave an opening for tho hair
very high of the forehead. A humning
birds wing stretches itself horizontally on
either side, and the whole is enriched with
Egyptian biioux-thst is to say, with celorsd
stone 4 enamels set in oxidized silver.
Very Partisan 10 another bonnet that has
an exaggerated width given to it by an
IL. front,o the lace. suspended to culver
and lutter with a breath. il poised q but
terfy with iridescent wings.
As to the hat 1t ia decidedly interesting.
having orystalized into lines and forms full
Of character describable only as Partisan.
II 10 neither small nor large, but medium
in size. II has q brim Of some inches
which is sometimes fat and sometimes
turned up fancifully against the crown and
the space it oocopisd is filled out to the
same outline with a trimming. Tho effect
OF thus building out the contour il extra
ordinary. or as l said, Partisan. Thus q
hat modelled after the old marquis pattern,
from the house named above. The brim ID
turned up thrse-cornered- wise. and the out
line thus broken is filled out with q big
rosette on either side. The r~osettes, of
magenta velvet. look like great single
hollyhocks and have each an enormous
Jet pin thurst through for q heart. Another
one known Us the admiral" has a Tam
crown and medium wide, round, fat brim,
and sets back on the head. Its great fsa-
lure is birds head and wings set on the
edge Of the brim.
Very Partisan also is a gray felt. with fiat
crown aud the rim rolled up close to the
crown on either side close to the 'front.'. II
has an extremely fiat appearance. which is
accentuated BY a piece of cream guipurs
lace. which lies fiat on the top and droops a
little over the front. Then a fictitious
width is added by an Alsatian bow of gray
velvet. stretching wing-like out on either
side. An emerald ornament, set exactly
In the front. puts the finishing touch. The
rim IN no case must project higher than the
crown; but should be even with it. to pro-
duce an effect OF ~f1atness. If you hope to
initiate these bijoux do not mo . study the
materials than the effect of the forms. as l
have tried to point them out.
The newest fashion in hair is to wave
the front and roll it back from the fore
head. The back hair is nominally worn
lower than it was, but it is conspicuous,
q mere mass of waves. and most women pin
it where it is most becoming.
Fanciful muffs Of velvet to match the
dress are In great vogue and furnish the last
ornamental touch to the reception toilet.
These also the milliner will furnish with the
hat or the dressmaker with the gown, or
whoever has a knack to fabricate say q
handkerchief case, should be able to make
one OF them. A strip of velvet, silk lined
and wadded. shirred on each edge If you
hke; one end pointed. rolled ny with the
pointed end outside and caught down with
a bunch of flowers OF a bow OF lace and rib
bon.
The dressmakers have hit on q new idea
Tor reducing the apparent size OF stout
women below the belt. They awe given up
the old device of a pointed basque. and are
now making the gown in one piece and Civ
ing some fullness to the front; they make it
cross diagonally n fnsten low on the side.
ms is ingenious and graceful.
For a woman past middle life who wants
a dressy gown that yet covers neck and
arms of one of the latest models is this
same reception gown Of black silk with lace
garniture on the waist, the pointed front
nlled In with white satin softly draped, the
sleeves with the close lower part OF White
satin brocaded with color and the black
pulls slashed with the brocade. Lace
should be sewea in the sleeves and allowed
TO fall over the hands.
For old ladies there ia nothing moro beau.
tiful Than black velvet laid in SOFT folds.
Mrs. Gladstone wore such a gown at q re-
csption the other day. fastened with dis-
Ruipure.
A handkerchief with a ~auipure lace boz
Ger made the most beautiful head dress l
nave ever seen on an elderly woman. 1t
was fastened with one corner on top Of the
head and allowed TO hang loosely.
A handsome calling dress for an elderly
woman with gray hair is of gray silk, made
demi-trsinsd. with an empire yoke jacket,
provided with loose puff slcevea to the OIL
bow. This jacket Ia merely n deep yoke
with sleeves in il made separate from the
gown, and to DO put on and of nj pleasure.
10 IL very convenient where one feels
changes OF temperature. The waist is pro.
WI