Southwest-sentinel. [volume] (Silver City, N.M.) 1883-189?, 1893-01-17

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DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING SHAPE AND Low
WAISTS.
dotted line shows where 70 cut out 70 shorten
waists.
needful, now that the pointed velvet belta
are ia style, and they are too pretty to be
discarded soon. The fullness Is ali gath.
cred at the bottom outside Of the darts, and
at the top there is no neck size cut, and the
length Is then carried to the top Of the
shoulder and gathered. The front lining
should be sliced of at the neck and hemmed,
and all the rest treated as usual.
The gathers should be sewn in under a
belt, and this latter should have the lower
edges turned in and the skirt gathered
and sewn TO that
Where the skirt is to be quite full, which
is now the style for thin dresses, lining
of silk or sateen, Of the prevailing color, Is
made and finished OF and worn under.
The breadths to the outer dress are cut
straight, and the skirt should be quite five
yards around, little longer in the back
and simply hemmed. pretty finish Is to
have ruffie Of the same thin goods, with
a still narrower and fuller one under that,
set on the under skirt. Ribbons can be
added II desired.
The heck can be finished in any manner,
but Just now berthes of lace or chiffon OF
of the dress material are used, and there is
practically no limit to the variety Of trim.
ming one can use for light dresses. Tulle
and Grape, null and India muslin are all
made about alike. Jabots of lace art
pretty, and are made by gathering lace
very full giving IL a shake and then fas
tening It as It naturally falls. Never try 10
make IL fall as you like, but fasten 1t
where It falls itself, or you will lose the
effect
Festoons and light effects are to be
sought for In thin materials.
The most suitable sleeve for a plump
arm is a simple fall Of lace or the dress ma.
terial For thin one a long bouffant ef
feet. open, II liked, at intervals on the upper
part Of the arm, fastened with tiny knots
Of ribbon, or a sleeve can be a series OF
puffs held in place by bracelet bands Of
ribbon.
Wash gowns should always be made With
a view 70 their looking as well after wash.
ing as before, and to that end the good
dressmaker should aim. Cotton goods,
whether Eepbyrs or sateens, should be plain
and neat, graceful in model and perfect in
ht. All cottons, except sateens, are pretty
with tucks or bias bands. Sateens require
more elaborate trimming, such as cuffs,
collars, ETC., OF velutina or lace.
Silks require a different treatment from
any other material, and If 1t Is possible TO
avoid 1t hot iron should never be put ou
silk. Black silks, the heavier and richer
kinds, like armure, peau de sole, faille and
grosgrain, should be made as plainly as
possible. their richness showing better
when little trimmed. Black silks, being
alike on both sides, cut to good advantage,
but as It Is apt TO fray the seams should be
rather deep The waists can be cut after
the model waist and any trimming desired
added. Nothing is more suitable or ele-
CANT than beaded passementerie unless Il
Is little real black thread lace; therefore
avoid cutting up the silk into ruliles and
broken bits Let the skirt be plain. but
ample. Bind Il with velvet, and, II desired
add a narrow pun or rose plating around
the bottom. Pay more attention TO the az
and style than trimming The richest
gowns are those made plain, but perfect.
Silk waists should never be quite a. tight
as they coul Be, for the richer the silk The
worse Is tle habit Il has Of stretching al
the seams. All the light summer silks car
be made without these precautions, but
even they will not stand stretching.
TO finish a handsome silk dress prOperlJ
requires the utmost attention TO details
| The waist seams should be bound will
| lustring, the ease belt be nice, the loop.
for hanging up be OF ribbon and ever
stitch set with precision. The lnish OF The
best dresses sent from abroad is about a
nice on the inside as on the outside, anC
nearly all very handsome silks are linet
with black or colored Rlace silk.
The facing should be carefully made. a
told before, and on the inside Of that ar
now set two or three narrow pinked rufIiei
Of glaco silk, an6 beneath this again IL
balayeuse Of black lace When the lad
prefers her dress unlined there is q sill
underskirt cut on the model lines and about
four inches shorter than the dress Thi
has one l0-inch RUNE on the under side
pinked. narrow plated and hemmed, onl
on the edge Of the skirt and two 20 i've mar
row plnked ones on che 0atside. Sometimes
these are alternately Spanish lace.
Velvet ia not 10 much worn for dreeael
a. u was, yet there are many elderly ladlel
who like u better Than anything. Ih'
same rules that bold good III the making
velvet. But Ia making velvet the seaml
should bo pressed, and It Is done In thii
wiae
A aat iron, pretty bot, Is turned tpaldl
down and held firmly in is place "A damn
towel a laid over 10. and ~ the steam arise
The velvet seam down and spread open,
drawn over 10, and a pressed 80 that thl
seam ID not viaible Thls "a also good wher
thp nap q pressed down. or 70 make owe
ola velvet Ike nv. o1iVE hAiphh