New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-04
PARIS FASHIONS.
THE TASTES OF THE HOUR.
THE INVOLVEMENT SKIRTS AND ELABoRAz.

DoDICEs-THE PIERRoT RUFF.
Paris. May 10.
The wheels OF fashion turn faster than they evsl
did before, and the wheel OF the Empire fashioc y
on its last revolution. House and evening dresses
with the bodice beted almost under the arm. ana
the immense high sleeve hiding the contours Of the
shoulders, are now only by those who are con-
WINGED that they look stylish In that mode than
in that OF the modified 1880. 1t is hard to say Why
couturiers persist in Identifying present fashions With
those OF that period for. with the exception OF ~
cut Of the sleeves they resemble them but little.
Skirts II made as wide. do not stand out as vounr
inousy, although, and then. you will see
woman who loves u bit Of exaggcratoh wear SKIRT
much stiffened arourd the bottom. The majority o.
skirts hang gracefully with GRADUATING fulness. stand
Ing out only with the aid OF ordinary buckram. IL
must be said that skirts OF inconvedent iensns
have never been worn In Paris. They toucn "
around. Just long enough TO sweep the pavement
a5d troublesome to pick mp than was the
old train skirt, for when you lift your skirt on the
right It dips lower the left Skirts may be tr1mmee
as fancy prompts. but they must be trimmed. Blacs
white lace Insertions PLACED at intervals OF Quartse
OF a yard, remain the most popular trimmings. ~
close ftrg bodice Is made very ornate, rounded %
the waist, and close at the neck, with WIDE sraiehs
band or loosely draped wide piece Of silk ribbon.
When revers are applied they made to spread more
upon the puff Of the sleeve than the chest, and
this allows for lace passementerie or 1ss
on the front OF the bodice The belt Is Indispensable
and is made I'm various ways and Of various widths.
and whether wide or narrow 1t Is Of stun different
from that Of the dress and Of contrasting color.
The narrow ribbon cut Jet belt. after en-
crcling the waist is ooped into a large rosette st
the side and two ends left to hang to the edge
OF the skirt Beautiful corselets made with
narrow ribbon or velvet. Three, four or five may
confne the waist In straight rows, or they may cross
each other irregulary. or form points up ana down.
Bows and rosettes form the principal trimming OF
these corselets. and may be attached in every con-
ceivable way: for instance, they may form an o.
que line from the upper to the lower row OF ribbon.
or they may be gathered into a large bunch and b
placed on one side under the bust with the upper
row OF ribbon running up TO meet It, or rosette
may cover each Of the front points OF the rDoon'
Wide velvet silk c0rselets also still worn, bus
to follow the Empire style they arc made the same
width all around. For corselets as we'll as for al
other articles OF dress, the rOsete Is more laVoreu
than the bow. and they are most extensively used
for skirt, bodice sleeve and bonnet trimming; on
capotes and hats they take the name OF pompons'
Notwithstanding the ridicule cast by men upon tas
big sleeves and the space they occupy they con-
Time to occupy II with the same IMMUNITY, WIN
the same mpertnent indifference. But aHhouen
they remain as voumnous they we're few months
aoo they have undergone some notifications. The
upper sleeve instead OF being pulled upward spreads
outward and downward. and the wide lace trimming
which adds to their size must be somewhat natene0
an tho sboulders and must gradually enlarge 10 The
circumference down the middle Of the upper arm
The puff ends abruptly little above the elbow ana
the lower sleeve Is maze usne e""usu !" 0""" WV
shape OF the arm.
An attractive calling or carriage dress Is OF oasc4
chinon accordion peated. over scarlet SILK unoeE.
skirt. The pleats tackled down with two rows Oh
narrow scarlet ribbon, for while accordion peaw
make one OF the piqant OF skirts, they are aps
LIANT a
intervals scarlet ribbon rosettes are SET upon
tho rows OF ribbon. The chemisette IS made 10 loos
like a prolongaton Of the skirt, or as II II were :"
under corsage. The back OF the SCARLET suran ponico
&c cut in one piece, gathered in the middle into me
telt and cut straight across little below tho neck
To show the black accordion peats with the scarlet
lining The front has no darts, Is eatnereo 70
simulate the blouse. and Is belted In WIN
scarlet ribbon and bow. The ecru guipuTe 10
which trims the bodice is gathered TO form sai"ss
collar in the back and the quilting at the eioo~
also of the ecru gupure. With this costume Is ~"i"
n black straw gendarme hat. These gendarme na~
are quite eccentric and can be worn with saie.y on
nv Young and beautiful women. This particular nat
is trimmed with Loie Fuller feathers ana nooohs.
that is a gradated combination OF all the shaoes u
mink ranging from the palest TO the deepest INV
The scarlet silk parasol has deep chihoh 'ums.
shaded 10 match the feathers ana nppohs u S A"~'
a black handle and scarlet bow.
h, nrettv cane or pelerine OF black chiffon Is ac-
~
Gordon pleated and without lining. the contours o.
tho figure being visible under IT, The upper part 10
made I'D Of two coarettes, thlckly boXpleated ana
Iocaa ono above the other. The one nearest the
hack chiffon Is made OF pale yellow silk and the other
OF black Venetian g,Iipurc. Each coIiarete ~ INC.
with white lace which inr,des beyond the cages OF
the yellow silk and the black ghpure. INC.
neck ruching of blnck chiffon and bow ana ehos Oh
male yellow ribbon complete the cape
The Parisienne to-day does not feel dresseu un.
less she has Perrot ruff on. Whether sne DC ou. VI
doors or In the house. highnecken or decoo'o
dress Pierrot ruff Is the indispensable nnsn I'd DER
toilet These rufs are made Of all sorts OF matenas'
but principally OF tule and Of chiffon. SUCCESSION
Of about a dozen runies all OF the same wldth se"es
10 narrow ribbon which IS made close ntting 10 tns
neck. constitutes the Pierrot ruff. The black the
IL Those made entirely OF white tulle are Ney
nretty for evening wear. for tte tneaue anu IL
dinners with a low. square-cut gown. BACK "nS
is more fluffy, and consequently more h T"s TH~
Hack md white r,hs are made OF blacr tue OF
mousseline de soie and each gathered rune Is euseu
with very narrow white g,ltphre so narrow na, one
hardly see what the eds sp womcn with long
lace tabs tied In bow In front auo w Gnu,
below the waist. AS cross between tne pienr a th
the run therc Is snort S fs ssncul msterias and
son,n az tbem are most beautiful. A series 81 Dack
velvet rufies lined with white silk with wme ducnesse
lace covering every row or ya " placed here And
there irregulary on the rumes, MAKE a cnSrMhnS
elegance; they are sim ana ngn ou, IeePy IS".e&
all lace applications Jet TRIMMINGS emnrodenes ano
nnassamenterics MI In the dents. The most becoming
nos are nnshed back from the neck, back and ont,
and elevated at the SIDES