The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-12-24
FROM ALGTERS TO MELILLA.
SCENES or DESERT JRAVEL NJ RAN
WAY TRAIN AND DILIGfNCE

| Npnin's S-uttuei In hfricn-AIne sfrns.
AtotErs. Dec. 8.-Undoubtedly the shortes,
| route for busy war correspondents and eager
| journalistic reporters anxious to reach Melills
| IL across Spain and over Gibraltar to Morocco
| but the traveller who finds himself In Algeria
and with plenty Of leisure 60 employ ne beat he
| chooses can wend his steps to the neigh borin q
empire by another way-one that will take him
through the Province OF Oran to the sad. lonely.
but withal strangely picturesque plain Of the
Chellf. There ths only lnharmonous note 10
struck by the weary little engine that labori-
ousiy drugs diminutive train up the sides "
a mounts range. and then along the banks oi
the shallow river that gives the district its
name. The plain stretches uninterruptodly
under a vast dome Of pale blue sky In an at.
mosphere so clear that. In spite OF the simmer
ing heat the eye pieroee depths OF many
leagues Of horizon.
Those regions offer to the uninitiated a start
ling contrast OF byRone devastation and mod
ern culture. OF persistent barbarian and en-
croachlng civilization. The soil, parched
under the scorrhnR rays OF unrelentlnR sun
shine necessarily tells the history Of rukzidS,
bloody encounters. hard won conauests, Of
prosperity and disasters It snshrines In its
folds and covers with its scanty vegetation sn-
tlaue loman cities. palaces. Villas temples
paved In rich mosaics IL has entombe the
n
OF France. the colonists OF Europe. On the
track now boldly opened to modern looomotioR
over the ateppes OF Bokhara the white clad
nomads used to appear on their feet steeda.
escortlng the draped palanauins carried by
camels and sheltering from indiscreet eyes the
closely yelled dusky women Of their race
These phantoms vanished before the troops OF
bluff old Bugeaud the legions OF Chan GARNER.
and the zouaves OF Lamorioiere, while further
an "a Il NhA -NHtA ~ u
Kader headed his blue fantassins. his red
Spahis. and the brown suuadrons OF his allies
who were ever prepared to deity him az . god
II he proved victorious. and to turn and rend
him n he was defeated.
On the route the train passes and stops a
many small stations whose red roofs glitter In
the sun they are for the most part ourtained
in acacia and eucalyptus trees, sffordins .
grateful shade to the young Arab cavalisrs
sons OF distant landowners who ride in quest
OF occupation or pleasure, and. wrapped
in their gray burnous allow. while they ere
hating. their broad-leaved straw hats to hang
down their backs These men have bold fall
con-like profles. splendid figures, q self
contained and proud attitude as they
bestride their saddles. embroidered with
silver. that have the tawny hue Of
rich Cordova leather. Rare passengers leave
the train at intervals and for no apparent
reason which the stranger oan concsivsI
women In the national Rarb. evidently OF the
people. some negress with large heavy syss
and dazzling teeth, whose merry twinkle be-
lies the sadness Of her OK prassionless featurssj
may be q soldier or mploye Of the line bent
on some inland mission but human life seems
almost impertinently intrusive as II breaks
on the desolate majesty OF the solitary plain
and disturbs the grand eternal silence.
The heat is intense both on the sunburnt
sxpanse and tho gradually rising range that
1t; vegetation. scanty always 10
frequently absent; there are but few habita-
ions till some scattered dwelling houses,
ields. and gardens herald the approach Of =
own. Deserted roads trace long white rib
1ons between the barren pastures; then dark
Pine wood surRes like cloud. and behind 10
crouches like some slunbering
BEAST OF prey holding guard over its pos-
sessions. Below the city. the Chelif orawls
between two high banks OF arabic land
and neglected by the city.
II no other apparent use than to water horses
II feed turtles as It slowly and sluggishly car
les It's shallow waters to the distant sea- Or.
Evansville has no timber. no mines no
meadows, no manufactures. no industry what
YER 1t was brought into existence only By
he will OF one man who needed It not to pro-
uce. but to coerce. Bugeaud founded It'll
t. Arnaud endowed II with broad streets.
ardens park so large that tho wandering
azelles strayed into II and felt secure in Its
hade. tall barracks. u residence for the COM
lander as vast as a mansion OF the seven
senth century. a hospital capable OF accom-
lodating 1000 wounded soldiers
Fort>-ave years ago the hospital was full.
no city vas oopulous. teeminR with life
oisy. and energetic; to-day grass grows be.
Veen the rarely trodden stones OF its silent
,oEouGhfares. immeasurably too large for the
Inhabitants, ana ~ has gained nothing In com.
ensation for what It has lost. But II has still
s rdison detre. for. with its half closed. lazy
res, II can keep watch over the road from Al.
lers to Oran; 1t can guard the hills OF Dahra
, the right and on the left control the heights
the mountain which the men OF Changar-
Ter called the Cathedral" the natives the
ye OF the World" which Is the Ouarensia
After leaving the train sordld coach. or
ligence. runs on the same road where Blu.
'aud led his men IN tho direction Of
10 forts and stores Of the Emir. and. In
cad OF the dwarf palms aud low oupoias
Islamite temples. tho nuts. cottages. and
fuses OF Europeans are now visible. Mslills.
% theatre Of the present war between
orocco and Spain. 10 not reached before many
sary miles OF travelling have been passed
ella Is neither territory nor q town it isa
plaza or place." a species OF little citadel
300 feet In breadth and TOO In width. Such
It is It represents the right OF Spain. In virtue
former successful cam paigns. to keep watch
er coast. whence 1t would be so easy to In
de her own shores
The fort is built on iiliputian promontory,
tn small lefty. hsrbor or landing stage
instructed after the old principles Of de-
nee. 1t could not resist a single gun boat on
. sea front. nor does It offer much better
fence inland. wherethere is no other fortin-
ton than an inefficient line OF forts within
circumference OF half a mile or so. The
aniArds. fully conscious OF their weakness
We decided 10 carry out second line OF forth.
ations, OF which the Cabrerizas Atlas will
IN the extreme point on the right. Tidi.
uariach the centre. and q large fort. 10 be
mutually built. will support the left.
he Moors have not been slow In recognizing
importance which this military station
10 additionally fortified would have. dom.
ting the whole country side. facilitating the
N alton OF an tntrenehed camp, securing fos