New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-19

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS WORK.
u will be admitted. even by the most carpng
tcs of fashion, that in the years since 1865 there
s.s been a steady progress in the direction Of
soou,y and grace Crude cOlOrlngs have given place
"a soft. harmonious tns garments have more and
ore been cut to follow the beautiful lines Of
ron,an's FORM to correct Natures failures and to
enhance her successes; the fascination Of long,
nuols flowing outlines has been felt and women
~ taste have learned modify and adapt current
modes to their own physical peculiarites. Our
sining constantly tended toward artistic and
tho beautiful and the result has been that pretty
romen been MADE TO look picturesquely lovely
that ugly women have been made to look pretty
that youth has been made more charming and that
sse has lost many OF Its terrOrs for the sex. 1t
4. improbable that women VINO any appreciation
n their own good looks-Or lack Of theni-wil return
"A STYLES which inherently dsfguring and un-
Asasiul. Twenty years ago this might have been
dope but after twenty years Of education in lowell
.ss II not likely that any woman with an ounce
d taste will have so little vanity as TO go back
10 the long shOulder-seams that utterly ruin the
hau,y OF the torso, TO the crinOline that vul-
eanres the costume and Cbscures the 1.-THE length
Of the limbs. Woman's dress never beautiful
and becoming as 1t has been during the past year.
and violent change in the direction Of uginess need
hardly be anticipated. There will doubtless be many
changes which cannot be called improvements but
they will be adopted by Women OF society.
little incident that occurred the other day In
the fitting room OF Of the most artistic and
elusive OF New-York dressmakers significant OF
The fact that taste is getting the better Of blind sub
mission TO the fashion-plae. gown OF very new,
very expensive ana very beautiful material TO be
@tned on" and around the fair customer draped
the skirt-skrts being fitted carefully as the
BODICE quick hands OF the artist put pin here
and there then she drew aside 10 observe the effect
Of the skirt, which made in the latest style Of
amplitude. An instants study was enough. Mad.
anne must have a new skirt ~ the emphatic de-
dsion and the offending breadths OF brocade were
toAed aside with disgust. The unerring eye OF the
ar,st saw the graceful proportions OF her Gus
TONER suffered from the full and 1aring drapery and
she sraightway announced her Intention of making a
shirt which should have less flare and which should
vet be Sufficiently In the fashion. Twenty years ago
the customer would have been forced TO wear the
exaggeratedIy fashionable skirt whether becoming or
not Now the exclusive dressmaker adapts her styles
to the wearer of her productions knowing that this
Is the service for which the woman OF refinement IS
Wiling to pay the highest price.
An ingenious Yankee has taken idea from the
Chinese. and has invented process TO make the
feet small and tho fingers taper That gentle ana
painless pressure constantly employed VIII nave
distinct effect have often been ted. Fitch the
points Of your fingers every time you wash your
hands" Is an cid time rule to make the fingers rosy
and pointed: and a Southern woman whose small,
delicaely pointed nose IS the exception In the family
rhe rest Of its Icing decidedly thick at the
end declares that she this successful feature 10
the patience of her mother who kept harpn astride
OF her little pug Willie she did her lessons ms a
little GIRL In the invention above referred to. for
which 1t Is said that patent has been issued 'he
necessary pressure is obtained by thin aluminium
bands to be wcrn at night and 1t might be sug
gested 10 the patentee to put a nose simpener on
the market at the same time.
The presents given by the C,ar to the Emir Of
Bokhara in return for the splendid gifts which the
made to all the members OF the Russian Imperial
family are Of such magnifcerce that they might well
fill feminine hearts with regret at the mere thought
Of such marvels being wasted on man. First OF all
there casket in solid gold. all ornamented Win
diamonds and Learing the crown and cipher OF the
Car In huge brilliants When this box was opened
II was found to contain all agrette OF three plumes
IN diamonds and agrafie made Of one enormous
emerald, cut square. Then there were some tribes
for the table service Of the Emr table for dostor'
hane" all glittering with precious stones the COS
torhane, is a light rejection Of sweets bonbons,
rqueurs preserves and delicate cakes served In the
Craving room the fashion OF which has been imported
into Russia by the Emr himself and which Is now
becoming the rage all over Europe Among the
other offerings of the Emperor were loving cup IN
enamelled silver covered with gems for drinking kou
myss: a lot Of cups, vases and dishes In ehamei!eu
silver and some wearing apparel the description Oh
which reminds one Of the traditional robes OF solomon
In all his glory-especally halate' or long khaitah
made Of gold thread, and trimmed with gallon OF
wrought gold sewn thickly with the red purple anne
thys,s Of Siberia ard very large rubics There was
another OF these wonderful "halates" made OF blue
velvet embroidered with gold and precious stones ana
lined with priceless sable furs. Furthermore, there
was a nice little assortment Of pieces OF pnrha'
a material in gold and silver thread Manufactured al
Moscow The Emir's son was also the recipient OF
numerous gifts ard even the cisonaees OF his suite
received cold watches studded with diamonds jewelled
scimi,ars, and other weapons of great value anu
beauty.
Tailor roodc dresses are gradually becoming more
ornate and more fanciiul than they have ever oeeh
before. so pretty they now that II Is 70 DC re-
gret,ed that they should be onstcd by SHY pr'Juucc
from aternco receptions, garden parties ana ior'
visits. OIL the plea that they are not smart eh'uSh
for these functions. On the other hand FOR morning
wear country wear travelling, walldnc, racc-Hectns'
boating and other healthy outdoor occupations nothing
can ever take the place Of the tailOrbuiit sui''
II Will never 60 out OF fashion. for the truly elegant
woman does not and will not consider hcr warnione
complete without several costumes made 10y hi,'-
rate tailor. while her men friends VIII UNANIMOUSLY
tell her that she looks far nicer In them 'hth III
snythng else. except evening dress OF hcr riu'''s
habit
What n pleasure Il l. TO women tIrn ont III
wenfting taller made frocli With their SNORT neat
busnessllke skirts pacntlca boots, hair zone up
tight and smooth cravats spotless and fastened Win
tiny pearl headed safety pins, hats hitting wei anu
perfectly secured, beautifully cut bodices anu WEI
fitting cheyreite gloves. they sally forth. ana though
the dav may he rainy and bolserous they look little
the worse when they come home. Even the men
DO not rival them In turning up tidy after long
country walk with the rain beating In their faces anu
the wind trying It's best 10 disheve Them FOR wear
with the tailor made costume, or rather WIN inv
tsIor.made skirt and Jacket the evsr-com'or'a"e
blouse bodice is with us always ana SHOWS 10 S'e"'
Of taking its departure IN fact, II Will be more seen
than ever This spring pretty one In navy-piuc
surah has the yoke embroidered In gold on ne,
foundation and is finished at the waist win I"''