The Irish standard., 1893-01-14

nto the homes, oftsn travelling Over fifty
miles 81 bog 70 reach u cottage in the
mountain wilds: a remarkable revival
IN wooden and linen industries followed,
finding q: market through Donegal
House, London, SINCE famous as the dis
tribution depot Of Irish art Industries.
Inter the RELOCATION Of ladies' pockets
to the rear Of the skirts introduced fancy
handkerchief for corsage decoration.
[Sprigging, another Of the lost arts OF Ire
land. was at once revived. Peasant girls
were taught in their cottages or at the
homes Of ladies', and 9 market found IN
America. Up to this point industrial ef-
f1rts had been confined to the peasantry.
Now appeals for work from reduced
Irish gentlewomen began to reach Mrs.
Hart. Probably no woman in England
possesses finer recollection OF laces and
embroideries than this versatile human
itarian. Her London House is verita-
bic palace, replete in the treasures Of
many lands, especially rich in Portu-
gueee and Sicilian en,broideries.
In the library of Trinity College, Dub
lin, Mrs. Hart came across an extensive
collection of Celtic missals and manu-
scripts, illuminated by the Irish monks
of the 9th and 7th centuries. "Here is q
forgotten gold mine of Celtic design. If
they could only be reproduced in Irish
polished fax threads on our hard woven
Irish linens, Ireland would have dis
tinctive art Indigenous Of the soil, and
her reduced gentlewomenan occupation.
Inquiries at a London booksellers re-
vealed the fact that repliqus of the
s'Kells" had been made two centuries
ago. An agent was sent in pursuit and a
rare volume recovered. In Miss Aimee
Carpenter, of Croydon, a clever draughts.
man and the inventor IF many embroid-
cry stitches, Mrs. Hart found an adaptor
for these intricate Celtic designs. Pol.
ished flax thread had never up to this
period been used in embroidery. 1t has
the lustre of silk. In the "Kells" work
the designs ere worked out by laying
the threads in broad stitches, COUGHING
them at marked intervals and outlining
the design in China gold. The linens
are especially woven by hand looms for
artistic purposes. Every possible color
is to be had. Not since the Egyptians
have red linens been made until Mrs
Harris laboratory rediscovered the secret
of the dye. The "Kells'' embroideries
were first shown at the Inventors Exhi-
bit in London in 1886 They were
awarded gold medal. Mrs. Candace
Wheeler saw them later at Donegal
House and secured permission to exhibit
specimens in New York. A special exhi-
bit was prepared, which at the request of
the queen was shown at Windsor Castle
before being shipped to America. The
"Kells" embroideries give employment
now to more than 100 Irish gentlewonea,
many OF whom are titled, one being a
pensioner of the queen. Letters OF gra-
titude from this appreciative women
read by Mrs. Power Lalor while guest
st Mrs. Hart's house suggested to the
latter the founding o the Irish Ladies'
Relief Fund.-" which is doing a noble
work. "KelJs'' embrolderers earn from
ESQ to e100 q year. In jubilee year
Queen Victoria ordered "Kells" curtains
for Windsor Castle. They are promised
for the Worlds Fair. The curtains are
red '.Kells" cloth, wroughtin bronze and
gold fax threads.
The first liuen dress ever seen at the
queens drawing room was worn by Mrs.
Hart. It created sensation. Fashioned
of "Kells" luster linen, the huge train
was solidly covered with pale blue flax
thread and the front covered with "Kells''
lace, invented and patented by Mre.Hart
In this unique court gown Mrs. Hart
will occasionally preside at Donegal Cas-
tie, which will be faithfully reproduced
at the fair.
The ecclesiastical embroideries of
England have always been executed in
Brussels. Why not supply the demand
at home by training the Irish girls in
London to do the work? thought Mrs.
Hart. Miss Una Taylor, daughter OF Sir
Henry Taylor, one of the most skilled
art embroiderers of England, came to
Mrs. Harris assistance by opening class
OF free instruction in this intricate art.
The Irish girls made wonderful pro-
gress. Lady Aberdeen gave them an
order for court dress of which she ia
very proud-black velvet, richly en-.
broidered in pure silk in italian designs,
made by Miss Carpenter.
Miss Taylor and Miss Mary Morris,
daughter of the poet, are among the most