davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
AGAIN THE SEALsKIN.


Pciagfc Sealing.
Ahem! 1t Is really a bit marvellous to see
how dear woman's adornment goes on all
fours with affairs of state. Word comes
from the fur beings that sealskin, barome-
ter OF the pelt market, will be only 10 per
cent higher than last season-further, that
this moderateness is owed to the pelagic
sealers. who defied at once the terrors of
the frozen deep. of Uncle Sam and his sail
ormen and OF villainous saltpeter. No won
der they have their reward in an enormous
catch. Fortune, 1t IL notorious, favors the
bold. No wonder either II next year they
be holder than ever and bring back such
store of pelts as shall make the heart Of
womankind to sing for joy.
No matter how many come as many more
will be needed. For now my lady Is not
content with single seal coat, even though
1t be snug and shapely as the new model
here set down that she wears for the prom
enade. For her carriage she wears q cape
of sealskin falling to the feet and plenti-
fully edged with mink tail or sable. Then,
too, she orders seal bands Of the richest,
the darkest upon her house gowns, her
smart evening frocks, and for cloth cos
tunes the new fur mosaic passementerie
where a pattern of one skin is set in a
ground of another.
As for example, Virginia creeper leaf of
beaver iniaid upon seaiskin. the outline
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
An Estimate of Orator.,

From the Detroit Free Press
The candidate for Congress had been
making speech in one Of the towns
of his district, where he was not we'll
known personally, and in the evening
while waiting for a train, he strayed
into butcher shop and without saying
who ne was began to pump the butcher
to find out how he stood
did you hear that speech this after
noon?' he inquired, after some General
talk.
Yes" replied the butcher. Il was
there"
What did you think Of it?"
"Pshaw," said the honest butcher, I've
made a better speech than that a hundred
times, trying to sell fifteen cents worth Of
Soup-bone."
The candidate concealed his identity
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

ployed by those who taught her as chief de-
signer
Even as a child she exhibited wonderful
taste and ingenuity in fashioning quaint
and pretty gowns for her dolls. working
with untiTirg patience, and often altering
Q garment a dozen times before 1t suited
her fastidious ideas.
How She De signs Costumes.
Always. after planning out toilet in her
head. she sketches 1t in the coIors she In
tends to use on piece Of water-color
paper. and. IL satisfactory, Immediately
Sets to work In her Brooklyn home she
has had fitted up an IDEAL work room. fur
nished with every convenience. and here
her fancies are materialized.
On a big table occupying the center Of thu
room she first drafts her patterns; then
cuts and hts the garment with astonishing
rapiditv. after which it is turned over to
her maid. also n skilled needlewoman, who
finishes IL OF with exquisite neatness.
She enjoys her work thoroughly as an
pier phan when some Inspiration is salts
factorily carried out or some novel effect
successfully achieved.
While she works she wears big white
apron that envelops her from head to
foot. and when engaged in making ner
summer and winter outfits the room be-
comes a perfect hive of industry. for then
she usually employs several assistants.
An immense chi1onier occupies one cor
ner OF the loom, and as soon as a garment
Is finished IL is laid away in one of the big
drawers.
Curtained shelves extend along one wall
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

The smal1ness Of his stature Is almost rs
sore q point with the Duke Of York as the
same shortcom1ng is with his ather. Both
the Princess Of Wales and Princess May
are q good deal taller than their spouses.
and that Is why the Prince of Wales has
such m .andn we non .S 70 penS pnoto
cess. If you look at almost any photo
graph Of their royal highnesses, you win
see that either the princess Is sitting IN q
chair with the prince standing behind her.
or. II she be standing UP. the prince Is
mounted on some steps in the background
There are a number Of the masculine men,
bers Of our royal family who would be pre-
pared to take any quantity OF thought If
they could thereby add an inch OF two to
their height
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
Information From the Slot.

from the PIttsburg CHRONICLE.
"A year or so ago." said young man to
Pittsburger, IT spent a few weeks in
New Orleans. One day saw a machine
which bore the inscription: Drop a nickel
In the slot and learn how to make your
pants last AS hadn't a great deal Of
money l thought an investment of cents
to show me how to save the purchase of a
pair Of trousers would be small capital nut
to good use, so 1 dropped a nickel in and a
card appeared. What do you suppose IL
recommended as the way to make your
pants last?"
Don't wear 'em, I suppose"
mo"
What did 1t sayr'
Make your coat and vest first
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

Tor unfinished work, and in TIE coy nook
rormei by the deep bow window stands
sewing machine Several dress frames
and a number Of comfortable low rocking
chairs complete the furniture
Every year during Lent she devOteS most
OF be- leisure TO cutting AM lifting plain.
sensible. hut pretty gowns for her pet pen
sioners. performing her seif-imposei task
with the same Interest and painstakinC
care that CharacteriZes all her work
A gown OF her own manufacture that she
wore recently 70 one OF The hotel germans
was much admired for it's extreme simple
fty. 1t was made or some dainty foreign
tissuc-white. with silveTy sheen In Ger
tain hghts-utterly devoid Of trimming of
any kind. and with It no ornaments were
worn Made over a silk slip. as illustrated.
II Ia too plain 70 require any further de-
ocrfption- On another occasion she wore
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

Close ntting outer
garments are coming
In again. but the box
will still be worn.
The length OF the
coat is evidenced IN
the accompanying IL
lustration. For even
ing dress the Inver-
ness will be the only
coat worn this year
by the quite correct
This will be made of
frosted beavers or
smooth DDS in
black. In colors blue
has gone out more or
less, and grays VIII
predominant. These
will be especially
prominent In the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

Irock coat The three buttoned cuteWey
still continues to be the most graceful
and satisfactory garment worn. The wide
silk braid has been discarded and English
stitching is as popular as IL was I'm the
spring. The tails will be quite long. A Tor
the sack. the three buttoned style will be
popular. IL will be cut away more I'm front
and be very much longer behind.
i looked over some new styles Of neck
wear the other day thar have not yet been
placed on the market. They were all Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

are mounted is loose enough, so that you
really have lots of ruff even if you have
very little neck. and the effect is secured
successfully and without discomfort to
you. Maybe Henry VIII was not Stylish
but his ruff suits the ideas of style today,
and now that you have learned how to get
into the thing without entire sacrifice of
your head you can go in for it and be hap
py. But avoid the other things.
Two pretty street dresses are depicted in
the fourth Illustration. That at the left is
composed of dark blue foulard and trimmed
with white lace and apple green surah. The
skirt is trimmed in the novel way men
toned at the description of the initial, with
three serpentine ruffles. each edged top and
bottom with narrow white lace. The round
bodice has A pointed yoke of gathered green
silk. finished with bands Of suipure
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
saved.
From Truth.

The chief Powhatan was about TO puiver-
fze Mr. John Smith when a shrek rent the
air and Pocahontas stood beside them.
stay" she commanded.
All" exclaimed Smith, who was noted
for his fertility IN resource. you are the
first girl / ever loved.
Pocahontas was just graduated ami he
lieved everything she heard, and 50 they
were married.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
A DINNER GOWN IN GREEN.

But Choose Another Tint Unless You
Wear the Rose Leaf I'm Your Cheek.
Word comes from Paris that this II to
be another green season-also a silver one
Whether or no the juxtaposition of the two
surfaces be q subtle reflection on the COM
plexion Of the average silver statesman no
mere fashion monger can take 1t upon her
self to decide. The point must be left to
the grave and reverend seigneurs who have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

silk. the satin tie be-
ing almost q relic OF
the past. as IL Is I'M
possible TO tie satin
into a graceful knot
and il does not wear
well. Different de-
signs were shown. the
prevailing lors
being a black or dark
blue background re-
lieved by dashes OF
color in small figures.
The four-in-hand Will
be a trihe wider IN
the ends than former
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
4 Case of Thrift.

From the New York Weekly.
Wife.-"An' phWy do yez be takin' thin
pills when yez are well again.
Husband.--'Faith. would We be afther
havin' Ee let a dollars worth OF pills 20
to waste? It's a thriftless family oi ma
ried into. sure"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

The tails OF an
autumn suits will be
longer. The fnoch
coat began last year
TO grow longer and IL
still continues. Frocks
this year will he long
er than ever. and, like
the now ola IA shioned
Newmarket. will al
most sw eep the
ground. This offers q
sf,leRdid chance for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

mas bt'tn a nafhtu tenuency OF Ilte yea1
10 discard the broadcloth for dress suits,
and this is still noticeable. worsteds and
vicunas being the most popular materials.
But broadcloth viii always be worn. espe-
ciaily by mature men. The dress coat VIII
have slightly longer tails the walstcoat
Will be cut more shaped than formerly.
and the trousers. OF course. viii be slightly
snugger In fit than those worn during the
day. SILK Maistcoats win be popular.
Trousers will have a slight spring this sea-
son, but whether they viii be well received
remains 20 be seen. Individual tastes are
likely TO govern these matters to a great
extent, and with regard to the size certainly
a mans legs have something to do with IL
But for the average well dressed man trOus-
ers will be ~ inches wide at the knee and
IL 1-2 al the bottom. For the pattern. stripes
ing, and check, IL il be very small, Is not
undesirable
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

the extremists. Some Of them no doubt viii
have trails to their frock coats and viii
wear silk hose on rainy days for street
crossing purposes.
Overcoafs.
To correspond with the length OF under
coats. overcosts. OF course. viii be very
long. OF these there Is a great VARIETY
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

one Of her loveliest conceptions-what she
calls her Wild rose costume-and in II she
looked the flower to perfection. White chif-
fon over pink silk was the material chosen
The upper portion of the bodice was ar
ranged in lengthwise puffings, below which
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

N q w w A Y Q +
banding" skirts
c o m es o ut every
week now. This fash
ion commenced with
a few parallel bands
of ribbon or velvet,
changed to permit a
great many OF them.
and now the strips of
ribbon can make al
m o 8 t any pattern.
This initial, for in
stance, shows one
variation. This has
a costume OF gray
suiting. trimmed with
green satin and silk.
Each end Of the spi-
raj band on the skirt
ends In a large ro-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

much a part Of her, when on, as her hands
or her hair
Many women who thoroughly understand
the art Of dressing. and like to have their
own original ideas followed. are unfortu-
nate In their dressmakers. and consequently
their most artistic conceptions are failures.
Tor unless dressmaker be In perfect SYM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
HER OWN DESIGNER.
A Millionaire's Daughter the Best
Dressed Girl at Saratoga.
she CHOSE Her TRADE.
Studying Dressmaking With the
Designers of Paris.
HOW SHE DESIGNS GOWNS.
Whites foe The Evening Star.

HE BEST DhESSED
woman II not always
the one who wears
the handsomest tot
let or employs the
most expensive dress
maker. It is quite as
important to know
how to wear a gown
well a. how to Sc
lect or order one. To
be truly becoming, a
gown must partake.in
a measure. Of the
wearer's individuali-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

SugeeAtfons as TO the Forthcomtu a,
Fall Styles.

Fall Styles.
From the New York Herald
Just at present the well dressed man ID
In chrysalis state. not yet having emerged
from his butterfly existence OF the summer
TO the more sober tints of the fall. but In
Few weeks, presto. And we shall hardly
know him.
To the flannel suit and blazer
To the outing shirt and tie,
10 the easy shoe of russell
He will bid a fond goodbye.
That is. let US hope that the russell shoe
will depart with the waning OF the season
have observed a decided tendency in the
past In favor OF the russell shoe for cold
weather. Most of the shoe dealers have been
obliged 10 satisfy this demand and make up
a heavier article for the winter. But desire
10 enter a firm protest against this custom
III it isn't stopped we shall be wearing rus
set shoes with evening dress next Can one
imagine anything more horrible?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
Hut Every Girl II Pretty In some BODY
Eyes.

Beauty lies in the eye Of the gazer and
mighty well that 1t does. Think how enor-
mously tiresome this old planet would be If
all the inhabitants thereof saw alike. A
dead level Of art excellence even would be
simply maddening. In such unhappy case
where everybody knew and regarded harmo-
MES OF form and color. carried themselves
out by rule and never by any chance wore
what was unbecoming the unregenerate hu-
man soul would cry out in anguish for the
rest. the refreshment. the relief of the dear
old dandy days. 1t would welcome even the
fat woman who wears a staring plaid the
thin one who accents her lank lines with
lack of ali frills or furbelows. 1t would
even be kindly tolerant of the dear soul who
wears green gloves with yellow green,
russell shoes with red one and smile a
welcome to the gent who sported dia-
mond as big as your thumb nail in his
cheviot shirt, or arrayed himself in checks
so loud you could hear them across an an
archiSt uproar.
Luckily no such trial can ever befall We
may talk. write, preach art with the capital
A from all on high places. Yet there will
be precious souls. colOrins -loving-color-
mad it may be-who will continue to make
color riots of our streets and assemblies to
induct themselves into mysterious pano-
plies that might safely be worshiped so I'M
like are they to anything on the earth, and
all because somewhere, somehow, from
somebody. they have got the idea that what
they wear is "the fashion"
"Conventionality." says the sage, lis the
least and the most followed of all natural
laws" Possibly accordion plea ting is
conventiOn-since like the poor it seems we
are to have IL always with AS for ex-
ample in this autumn evening gown-which
is a mass of shimmering creases from top
to bottom. The stuff is crepon-ether silk
or light wOOl-the color chosen to suit the
wearer'S complexion. 1t has trimming of
lace insertion and rather wide ribbon. The
lace may be black. white or cream as best
suits the gown Coio~. the ribbon ought to
match exactly the hue of the stun.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

lace. The remainder is laid In tiny pleats
ana trimmed with vertical bands of lace
insertion three inches wide. The other
gown Is made Of pale blue and white striped
organdie. trimmed with insertions Of en-
broidered batiste. The skirt is lined with
white satin and garnished on the inside
with Q pinked satin frill. The blouse waist
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
GARB FOR MOURNING.
Costumes for Ladies Who Have Re-
tired From Fashions Whirl.
TIE DREADED RUFF AND COLLAR.
How Braid Should Adorn Hand
some Gowns.
PICTURES JACKET.

Special Correspondents Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, September Is, 1893.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

ing garment and is properly made OF COL
ored cloth-cinnamon. pearl, drab, fawn,
blue or olive green. The skirt fastens In
visibly and ends in two scant frills below
the upper edge. 1t has five big white but
tons on the double-breasted bodice, the
revers are faced with silk. and open in a
deep V overlaid bib Outside Of them comes
a soft double fichu of the same silk, which
fills all the space betwixt collar and sleeve
Altogether 1t is a wonderfully taking gar
ment-whence beauty may go beautifully
and ugliness find that relief of style
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

English derby is small The American derby
thls year Will be full at the crown and moro
rounded. You remember the pointed hat of
a rev years ago? That was one extreme.
Inc pendulum OF fashion swings back ana
iorth, ana each season marks a different
staee IN It's progress. Now we have the full.
rounded outlines. The silk hat will have
even more decided bell than last year. ana
a man with slim legs not wearing an overcoat
"ih present a ewhat top heavy appear
ance. That is II he desires 10 20 TO the ex-
IRENE But the well dressed man never goes
70 extremes. He abhors the loud shirtings
the exaggerated outlines OF many OF our
younger swells who ought 20 know better.
Speaking OF shirtings they will be severe-
ly plain. The correct thing for evening dress
VIII be plain white linen with preferably
two studs. although I see no objection 70
ring fhrae
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

Nothing In m ore
pleasing than TO note
the growing diver
gence between Amer
lean andEnglish fash
ions. This year IL Will
perhaps. he more ev-
ident in the hat than
anything else. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16

In collars there IS
little change. the
turned over points
being still most desir-
able. a new shape
just put on the mark
e. is quite high. with
points slightly turned
and but little space
between. In cuffs
square ends only are
permissible. There
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-09-16
HEADS AND HEADGEAR.
Some Faint MuttcrinGs of What the
Winter Shall Bring Forth.

For fully a dozen Of these last years--as
regularly, indeed, as they brought snow
drops. or spring poets. or fish stories, or
Christmas day-we have had the authorita-
tive announcement that the bang was
doomed, fringe outlawed, fun clean out Of
style. Yet in each year of grace woman
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-11-26
THE LERIGH STRIKE.
The Company Must Beat the Union, Says
Manager Voorhees,

PHILADELPHIA. November 25.-General
Manager Vorhees, Of the Lehlgh valley,
said to a reporter of the Associated Press
this evening that he was notified at 10
o'clock tonight that the Ninth Infantry,
Colonel Keck, n. G. p, stationed at
Wilkesbarre, had been ordered to Sayre.
Just what the trouble was he was unable
at that time 10 state, but has put himself
in teiegraphic communication with all
points along the road TO learn, II possible,
what he difficulty is.
Spe. king Of the strike situation, be said:
"The company recognizes that it has a
hard fight ahead, but there is only one
thing for us to do. We must beat the union.
We are now tolerably well equipped and
are moving some trains. To-day we have
moved considerable freight from the
Schuvlkill Valley and Hazelton districts
and our passenger service is improving
dailv.n
Affairs at the headquarters Of the
strikers committee are very quiet tonight.
Little or nothing new has been sent by the
representatives Of the Grievance Commit
tee along the line E. E. Clark, Chief Of the
Brotherhood OF Conductors, IS stiH here
He said tonight that the situation OF the
strikers was many times more secure than
il was five days ago.
PHILADELPHIA, PA. November 25.--The
Associated Press correspondent at Harris
burg telegraphs as follows
There is no truth in the report that the
Ninth regiment has been ordered 70 Sayre.
The Governor is authority for this state
ment."
BUFFALO, n. Y, November 25.-Reports
received here from Manchester say that
six of the crews that took out freight
trains from Buffalo yesterday had went
back with trains of freight to-day. Chief
Clerk Smith said that he expected the
other crews would start back as soon as
trains could be made up. Other trains are
10 be started east during the forenoon.
Passenger trains left on time. When
asked regarding the explosion OF engine
6O4 at Fenton tank. thirty-eight miles west
of Savre, at s o'clock, last night Mr..
Smith said I've simply know that the
engine exploded at that time. Engineer
Cooley viii probably recover, but 1t IS
thought that Conductor Henderson and the
fireman, whose name is unknown, will die
Cooley came to work for the Lehigh on
the second day of the strike. he bad Gre
dentials showing that he had been laco-
motive engineer for fifteen years. His last
position was on the Pennsylvania railroad
where he worked sixteen months.
JERSEY CITY, n. j., November 25. If
appearances 20 for anything, the backbone
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1893-11-26
Arr.,,.d a Le,ter writIng Crank.

SEATTLE, WASH, November 25.-Charles
z. Blackburn, mining expert, was arrest
cd late last night for sending threatening
letters and postal cards through the mails
Blackburn is q crank on silver and reli-
gion For the past three years he has been
writing abusive, scurrilous and threaten
ing letters to preachers, editors, politicians
and private citizens who disagreed with
him on public or social questions. Over
100 postal cards were written to the editors
of the Post Intelligcncer, most OF them
threatening terrible death if the course Of
the paper on the question was adhered TO-
He also wrote letters to President Cleve-
land and Secretary Carlisle threatening to
kill them. His favorite expression was:
'I will kill the President of the United
States, John c.. Carlisle and the editor Of
the Post IntCliigcncer.n Blackburn, when
arrested, di0 not deny writing the letters
and said he meant what they contained.