Southwest-sentinel. [volume] (Silver City, N.M.) 1883-189?, 1893-01-03
MODEL SKIRT.

cut in the same way, with the skirt cut on,
but in measuring for a loose wrapper an
allowance Of six inches longer than It all-
parently requires should be made at the
bottom, and this afterward can be pinned
up to come Just right, as skirts Of wrap
pers somehow take up" unexpectedly.
The side seams must be gored, and fan Of
one breadth Of the material should be set
in with the back scam.
Princess dresses are simply basques with
skirts, and by drafting the basque, follow
ing the indication Of the lines, always allow
ing any slant to fall backward, perfect
fitting princess will be the result. In a
princess the skirt should be long also, and
only hemmed or trimmed when the whole
Is sewn, so that It may not take up and be
too short Riding basques are made on the
same lines, with the sole difference Of rigid
plainness in trimming, and position
backs, which are formed by allowing the
back forms to extend longer and the fronts
cut shorter than ordinary basques. The
little Positions at the back are faced all
the way up with the material, and two
silk buttons are put at the waist line like
those on mems coats. Jackets are cut on
the same general lines as the basque, only
half an inch larger on every seam, and as
much longer az Is desired. Pockets can be
added OF not, aud any preferred style Of
trimming put on. One dart only-the
back one-is ever added to jackets. Bone
Is necessary IL one prefers it straight
Blazers are cut In the same general style,
hut -,sithort DARTS apsl. rather nrrrower
across the chest, The lsngth and width
depend upon Individual taste. Plain
leg o. mutton sleeves. Rows Of stitching
form the most suitable finish TO both blaz-
ers and jackets. Blouses are cut just like
the plain gathered waist, but from the
Under arm sleeve line they should measure
twelve inches and have a plain hem,
through which Is drawn a tape or elastic
to gather them so that they csn fall over.
meeting the skirt.
In finishing off a riding habit basque it Is
customary to have the lining Of stout linen,
with the seams pressed fat and boued as
usual, but it is not necessary to finish the
senms of so neatly, as a lining Of quilted
satin is sewn in and neatly felled over all
the seams.
Tailor made gowns depend for thei.
beauty upon the exactness Of every line
and every stitch. Every seam must be
pressed fiat before another is sewn, and
then when the whole Is finished final
pressing should be given It. Not "A wrinkle
should form upon the waist. Whereve-
the seams finish like in position basque
an arrowhead Of silk Is worked, as also at
the corners Of pockets. Skirts for tailor
gowns are Just now cut sheath fashion,
with all the fullness in a fan plating at
the back and with several rows Of stitch
ing around the hem of the skirt. They
are frequently made without lining, par
ticularly when Of serge or cloth, and
faced at the bottom. The facing is made
of wigan, oyerlaid with linen, and this
again covered with alpaca. all stitched to
gether and faced on like any facing, leav-
ing the edge Of the dress next the ground.
A narrow braid is put on fat under this
but 1t does not show from the outside. But
with the return Of cooler weather linings
or foundations viii be used, and they can
be cut and sewn up with the skirt seams
on separate, as before, In which case the
facings and braid 80 on the lining, and the
skirt is hemmed. II stitching is to take 4
prominent part, doubled piece OF flannel
should be laid under the place, and where
the goods are stitched the seams show very
prettily.
No person can do good work without
tools, and the home dressmaker ought tc
have one of those little frames to hang
skirts on for the purpose Of draping them
The foundation skirt is thrown over It.
and the drcssmaIer wants to fashion q
"wrinkled front" This, simple as 1t ap
pears, Is really the hardest thing to do
The only way to get Il right Is Il
take the piece Of goods and bring one end
up from the floor, where the rest lies, aud
pin Il with the fold to the center Of the
front at the waist. Then bring the two sell
wage edges up to the hip waist line
and let the wrinkles fall naturally, stick
ing pins in 70 hold them until ready 70 sew
them. About three deep plaits on each
hip will form, falling forward. The bot
tom then can be tackled along bastine
following the line Of the skirt The tor
should then be trimmed away, all the Will,
keeping the pins Ia the plaits. and ther
these should be basted and finally sewr
down neatly with bnttonhole looping
The bottom can then be cut around and
finally hemmed or faced, as preferred. and
the back draperies on breadths sewn on
but don't let those plaits come uDdone OF
you viii never get I6em back Ia the sam,
place.
The waist varies from twenty-five L
thirty-two inches, end the top should
therefore be- graded 80 that ell the sil
pieces viii make the required number oI
inches, allowing the back bresdth onll
two inches as Il should always be brought
into that compass by plaits or gathers.
II the wearer IS very stout woman oi
has a high stomach. the top Of the FROM
breadth should be followed out cne incl
10 one and half to throw the fullneas for
ward, and the bottom should be as mucl
longer in the conter. II a slender figure, 4
can be left straight. II for q sheath skirt
lhe seams at the top must bo fitted 70 th'
figure. bat skirts On this plan have haf
tholr best daY, and draporlea are Coming in
oEf4r HhnEEN