Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1893-08-26

| walk along the stone parapet of the river,
| sleepy and lazy beyond all words, where
open air junk stands of fascinating bric-a-
brac compete in interest with the tortu-
Gus narrow streets ancient and reekins
with ancient odors. The junk dealers can
pistols. canoes, coins, snun boxes and bat
tered oil paintings, to say nothing Of sheet
| music and colored prints. They cluster
even more thickly around the bridges lead.
ing to the islands on the greater OF
WHICH. the lie de la Cite, sits the Cathedral
Of Notre Dame de Paris.
This island held the oldest city of Paris.
Eve bridges now connect 1T with the greater
Paris which surrounds. it. 1t contains be
sides few streets and squares the caths-
dral. the Hotel-Die (hospitap. great mill
tary barracks, the flower market, the courts
| OF justice, and the morgue. into whose last
gruesome hall most passers find themselves
drawn by a subtle mingling of the gaping
spirit Of the Seine and an itching Tor
So far the sights conduce to thoughtful
| ness, If not to melancholy. The cleansing
OF dogs from their natural verrnin, the
| slaughter of innocent and sportive fish.
wine by the million quarts. most of It doc
| tored. imprisoned wild animals reeking in
their efiiuvia, dead men cold and impressive,
| live men sweating at their work. old books.
old streets, antiquities, an ancient cathe-
dral and the forbidding courts of justice.
have left upon the mind a slightly morbid
! faint, which, however, is no more unwei-
| than Is the strong smell of his favorite de-
caying cheeses. Henceforth and westward
the Seine has naught but sweetness and
| light The whole north bank beyond the
| great palace of the Louvre becomes a mag
nificent park. interrupted only for a short
racing the stream IN the peishborhood of
| the Alma bridge. The park soon begins
again at the Trocadero, and the avenue of
roadside restaurants and all the joys Of the
CON the South Side.
The south has the French Institute. the
fol fha anti n,,ftx, oh fho chor
Der of deputies. and the terminus Of the
Boulevard Saint-Germain, where it runs
into the Place de la Concorde. the most
| magnificent open square in Europe. Be-
yond. at the Esplanade of the Invalides.
there are old soldiers loafing in the sun.
captured by Napoleon I. At the Manufac-
| ture des Tabacs the cigarette girls take
their incoming, and soon you have the gay
grounds of the exposition of 1889.
The atmosphere along this Seine walk is
serene. There is little noise hurry. A
haze floats over the stream: there Is faint
hum from the hustle and triff1c of modern
Paris on the north and as the little steam
ers dart below and you rest yourself out
side some waterside cafe, q sleepy intoxi-
cation steals over you and the poison Of the
Seine is in your veins.
This is the loafing paradise Of Paris. and
1t extends some four miles through Its very
| center whole new life, gay, loud and
bright. and at once voluptuous and healthy
begins still further westward. 1t Is the life
| sions.
Riverside Resorts.
On many an island there are boating
| clubs aristocratic and middle class. At
many a riverside village there are garden
restaurants, some running to bourgeois fam
! lily dinners. some maintaining themselves
on the patronage of clubmen and their
! guests, some the rendezvous for I'm de SIZE
| Gle merry makers of all classes. Bougival a
prettily situated village on the curving river
f fsmeus to ,ssos saint German Da, Is a
and Sentimental excur sEsss of pa sWes
wish to mix their Sentiment with O a certain tain
and the FTogsers." all at BouSivai. The
Partisan who takes his best girl out for a
day to this village Of delights viii have a
bare outlines. 1t Will be understood. are III
| ed In with that commodity which Partsians
never lack and never tire of1eonversati ton;
straw hat with broad blue ribbon. white
nette.
| 10 a. m.-who is not yet ready.
| Noon-Lunch on board the steamer Tour
| iste. Salmon trout, filet jardiniere. As the
beat the, drum and play the cIarionet to
fete' the passing OF the steamer. jean
nette cries back: "Ohe. the big papa! ohe.
pm.-Triumphal arrival at the Grenouil-
lere lthe Froggery). an ultra fin de steele
resort for bathing and boating. The rowers
| lft their oars. the steersman lifts his hat,
Jeannette lifts her parasol. and the swim
| mers mt their heels as salute.
! Numerous public
| pm. Tea or liquors and cakes
3 pm; Start for Bougival proper on foot.
has bought duck trumpet-that Is to say.
a highly ornamental kazoo-through which
she ,s sings with ravish!ng nasahty.
$50 pm. She guys the old bridge tender
] cent? I ma
one last Sunday" The 'guardian' replies:
Go; madame has not yet arrived at the
Z pm. Dinner in a restaurant garden
pm. Entry OF vielnist and a harpist.
pm. stili the restaurant garden. The
| engaging trick of blowing out the lamps.
| 10 pm. Arm in arm along the road to the
canoeists ball. singing.
your partners! Bravo, its amazins siab bSe
how hot my children"
Midnight. Grand farandole. Chinese Ian
| terms on poles. Last train for Paris, and
| goodbye to the good old river Seine.
/ A Corner Of Old England.
Far different from this is the riverside
| amusement of the Englishman In Paris.
There is a little island In the Seine imme-
diately above the Neuilly bridge Here
| hourishes the Decimal Boating and Lawn
| Tennis Society," sanctioned by the project
| of police and by many a British matron.
| What with lawn tennis tournaments and
| handicaps, sculling and swimming races,
| English and French billiards, library,
| luncheons, dinners and smoking concerts,
with Bass ale and whisky and water with
| a profusion of well-behaved fox terriers
and bull pups and with the graces of peach
| complexioned, golden-haired English girls
| in gray flannel skirts and dotted muslin
waists. you have one of those corners of
| old England which her children, far and
| near, know well how to construct for their
| delight Yet snug as they are upon their
| lie des Anglais, where the frogs sing after
/ dICy u-ho he nrox
| the trees and bushes, and where the bulls
eye lantern lights the landing stage. one
| cannot help exclaiming in the language
| Of Jeanette. little changed: "C'est
amusant mais quel froid, mes enfants."
| A night beam sorrow watches to behold,
| Distinct, but distant. clear, but, oh, how
| cold.
STERLING HELLO.