Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1893-02-19
IN SOUTH AMERICA.
OBSERVATIONS OF A vISI.
TOR FROM RICHMOND.
Customs Of the People---Thcir
Homes and Manner Of Dress.
The Donkey's Hardships.

Probably the hottest town this side
OF the Atlantic 10 La Guira," said MI.
William ]. Woods. as be Lit cigar and
crossing his feet on the table OF his type
writer proceeded to give DISPATCH re-
porter an interesting account OF his
recent trip TO South America "The
city," he explained, "is situated at the
foot Of the high mountains which sepa-
rate it from Caracas. and cut of from
the cool sea- breezes, which are supposed
to come up every night in the Tropics.
in direct line it is but distant few
miles from Caracas. the capital OF
Venezuela, but one trip across these
mountains is generally sufficient to in
duce a stranger to take the railroad
which connects the two places. This rail-
road is the result OF English enter
prise and is wonderful piece OF
engineering. For twenty-eight miles
it climbs the sides OF steep mountains in
zig-zags, making some OF the shsrpest
angles it is possible for train of cars to
my life l suffered genuine attack OF
sea-sickness on land while travelling on
this road. found, however, that this is
not an uncommon thing, especially
among ladies. For miles the ocean is in
view from this road, and the scenery
is wild and unattractive. At an ele-
walton OF about 1000 or 1000 feet de-
scent begins which finally lands one
in valley wherein lies the city OF Cara
cas-, the population of which is said to be
over $4,000.
MUD NOVELS AND GRAND BUILDINGS.
1.-THE first impressions Of Caracas
give one the idea of its being dirty,
irregularly-built place. made up OF mud
novels and grand buildings. There are
quite a number of these handsome struc-
lures, the first one seen being large,
quaint-looking church, situated on the
top of hill and separated from the city
proper by huge viaduct built of iron.
Then there is large theatre. used but
few times during the year. when q strag-
Cling company from some Of the
European cities happens to pass
by on its way to more congenial
climes. La Casa Amarillo. the Yellow
House (instead Of the White House,, the
government buildings, the buildings
where Congress meets, the barracks, the
Cathedral and several fine churches, are
all large buildings, built Of stone, which,
together with La Plaza de Bolivar, a
public park, only tend to draw an in
vidious comparison to the miserable,
dirty little buildings which surround
them On all sides.
SOMETHING ABOUT DoYKEYs.
"Outside Of these larger buildings,
everything else seems to be Of diminu-
tive order. The streets are hardly wide
enough to permit the small horse carsand
the carriages to pass each other. These
small horse-cars are pulled by small
mules, in charge of small boys. and are
always filled with small women and some
of the smallest babies have ever seen.
But the thing which mostly attracts the
attention OF foreigner is the great num-
Der of the smallest donkeys in the world.
In other portions OF the world | have
seen these patient. half-fed, and ill-treat.
ed beasts. but the Venezuelan donkey is
indigenous to the soil and peculiar to it.
Many of them are not much over three
feet tall, but, none the less for that, they
are made to carry burdens which some
OF our mules would kick against. They
are met with everywhere, and peon
counts his wealth by the number he
owns. They are the great motive power
by which the inland cities derive their
supplies from the ports. and Caracas
herself is dependent for her fish sup
ply upon these sore-footed animals, who
Chamber up the sides of the steep noun
tains which separate her from the ocean,
night after night, in order to afford fresh
fish for breakfast. They are attached to
no carts, but their load is strapped on
them in every conceivable manner, and
It Is nothing uncommon to see a coffin
moving along the streets, having no visi-
BILE power with which to propel it. and
native sitting above all, with perhaps
another one inside.
FOLLOW THEIR LEADER.
"These donkeys follow their leader
generally an old donkey of great expert
ence-the head of one being attached to
the tail of the one in front, and have
counted as many as fifteen in q single
line, all loaded up with every imaginable
thing, cord-wood, oranges, fish. sugar.
cane, plantains, &C.. &c. One half of
these donkeys have lost portion
or all of their ears, and l learned
that when donkey gets balky or
falls down under an unusually large
load, out comes the owners knife and
off goes portion of Mr.. Donkey's ear.
1t is said that several repetitions of this
docking process is sure cure for balk-
ing donkey, but if it is, it does not at all
improve the looks of the ANIMAL and one
not used to this species of cruelty feels
sickened when he sees a poor, half
starved, overloaded little beast with
ears all bleeding and appealing almost
to you to be relieved of its sufferings.
But the society with the long name is
unknown in Spanish America.
"The drivers never walk il there is
possibility of their securing perching
room on the top of donkey's load. A
tale is told that one day native came
along to toll-gste riding on "burro"
Toll was demanded of him, but he had
not the wherewithal to pay. After
considering few moments he inquired
if foot-passengers had to pay toll, and
being informed "No," he inquired if
such passenger could take with him
merchandise at the same rate. "Si. Sc
nor" was the reply. Whereupon he
dismounted, picked up his donkey,
threw it across his shoulders, walked
through the toll-gate, unloaded himself
of his burden, remounted. and went on
his way, no doubt thinking that he had
gotten even with the government at least
for the time being.
THE CLOTHES THEY WEAR.
"The costume Of the peones consists
OF just as little clothing as decency de-
mands. When at work they seldom
wear more than hat and the remnants
OF a pair Of overalls. The women are
about as scantily dressed, and when they
are washing clothes, which is done IN
the river or brooks. they divest them
selves of as much superhuous clothing