Evening journal., 1893-02-25
GARDENS OF SIDON.
SCENES OF RARE BEAUTY IN THE OLD
PHGNlclAN CITY.

Groves ana Carcens-IhUnlcla as She
Appears Today-The Dress Of Its People.
Their Garments and Their Arms.
The dewdrops glittered in the light Of
the just rising sun, and the air was heavy
with sweet odors Of hundreds of orange
and lemon trees with white blossoms.
The scene was a picture Of marvellous
fertility. Orange thickets, yellow and
white with their double burden of fruit
and flowers; lemon, apricot and fig trees,
interspersed with the more tropical palm
and date, all growing in the greatest
luxuriance. At times we saw the queer
shaftlike leaves Of the banana, often 10
feet in length. An occasional mulberry
orchard explained the presence Of an en-
terprising silk manufactory near by
Every few yards little brooks babbled
along, the absolute essential of this lux
uriance.
It is not strange that this paradise OF
flowers and fruit is much frequented by
the inhabitants of the crowded, dirty
town. No one can ride through these
fair gardens and fail to perceive why the
worship Of the old Sidonians was so
closely connected with the grove, and
how from natures rich profusion about
them they learned to worship the idea OF
fertility, which was the essence Of their
religion. The ancient Sidon, too, was
not crowded down close by the sea, but
was situated farther back in the plain,
and thus was enriched by ring Of en-
erald
On the outskirts of the gardens we
came to the catacombs of old Sidon,
which have been excavated by the
French. In the soft limestone rock ex-
tend long series of connected chambers
which have contributed a few rude
statues, several sarcophagi and mum
mics to the very few mementos which
we have of that enterprising people
who secured their alphabet in Egypt
and carried it to Greece, and thus trans
mitted, with certain changes, the letters
with which we communicate our 10Th
century ideas. More Of the aesthetic art
Of Ph9nicia is to be seen today in
Athens than in all Palestine. There in
the Mycene room one can see the richly
inlaid daggers, the beautiful ornaments
and the facsimiles of the beaten gold
cups which were also manufactured by
these artisans of oriental antiquity to
! grace the temple of Solomon at Jerusa-
lem. Every ruin Of that ancient world,
whether in Phoenicia or not when laid
bare bears ample testimony to the skill
and enterprise Of this Semitic nation Of
traders.
Leaving these old tombs and the
thoughts that they inspired we were
soon studying Phmnicia as she appears
today. On our left extended the Leba-
non range, while in the distance rose
Mount Hermon, clad in snow, glisternng
like Pentelicus marble in the midday
sun. On tho right was the blue sea, in
to which we ere long took plunge Be
fore us the narrow bride path extended,
now through fertile although only half
cultivated fields, now over a rocky prom
ontory, which often jutted into the sea,
Habitations We're rare and generally
huddled together for protection against
the Arab incursions.
On the highways we often met these
modern representatives and probable de-
scendants of the ancient Midianites
Tall, muscular fellows, with the dark
Semitic countenance and black beard,
clad with the striped abba, a square
piece Of goat hair cloth folded and sewed
above the SHOULDERS, the chief garment
Of the patriGrchs and the mantle Of Eli
jah the Tishbite. Underneath they wore
the kimbez, the long flowing tunic,
which appeared when they threw back
their abbas. About their heads was tight
ly wrapped the silken kefyeh, crowned
with the two heavy goat hair coils, which
encircled the tops of their heads like
large, black serpent. About the waist
was tightly bound the girdle, adorned
with huge, odd shaped knives, or, if he
be a civilized Arab, with pistols.
An ugly looking speer 10 OF 90 feet
long completed the outfit. an outfit well
calculated to engender green envy in the
heart of an American cowboy. A little
detour enabled us to visit the black tents
Of Kedar, the abode Of these perennial
campers out. 1t is a rectangular edifice
10 or 20 feet long, supported on poles
which 40 or 90 centuries Of inherited ex-
perience has taught them to sldllfully
place at exactly the right angle. This
palace Of thickly woven goat hair
cloth is held in position by strong guy
ropes. The sides are raised or lowered
at will, according to the position of the
sun or the direction Of the wind.
Within curtain separates the wom-
ems apartment from the common re-
ception room. The cooking outfit, like
} the dwelling, is characterized by its Sc
we're simplicity, since fortunately the
Arab does not demand a many course
dinner, and long years Of practice have
taught him to dispense with q super
fluffy Of dishes, which is generally more
than one for a family. Chicago Inter
Ocean.
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