The record-union., 1893-11-18

American ''sulkyu and the English trap
perhaps more like ''one-horse shay"
1t is two-wheeled, low and it's long shafts,
terminating just back of the axle, form
springs for the seat which is in front of
the axle. The seat is low; you are COM
PEELED to straighten out your legs as
though you were sitting upon the floor,
and your feet thus just reach stout
little dashboard. This has the adj
vantage OF landing you upon your feet, IN
case OF a breakdown, instead upon your
head, as when dogcart or trap goes to
pieces. The vehicle is nicely balanced
and has but one seat. Consequently you
must be passenger and driver in one,
though little projection behind the axle
serves for place upon which to strap
your luggage, if it be as modest as Nor
Wegian travellers should be, and also for
q perch for the sunny-faced, garrulous
lad, the ''skydgut'' or postboy, who ac-
companies you between Stations" TO
return your carrioie and pony 10 its
owner.
The Norwegian ponies which draw
these carrioles, or are used as saddle
horses in the roadless mountain districts,
are worthy of a chapter TO themselves.
They are little, ,cream-colored and stocky,
with line crests and forearms, and are
most reliable and intelligent. They are
as strong as the ''sheltie'' or the Cursh-
SuudA pOuy5 anu qu4l6 as ululDIo dAO
long suffering as the Cuban pony or
jacas. l never saw animals in any coun-
try better cared for, and they respond to
the almost affectionate treatment they
receive by splendid speed on level
stretches OF road and an almost startling
pace down the steepest of mountain
ways. Their comprehension of the
ethics of travel is, however, often far
more acute than that OF their foreign dri-
NO | Otf Gfn q f1d
turn about, facing the carriole passenger,
as bit OF plucky climbing was reached,
with a look which asked as plainly as
words:
kind sir, you are now in Norway.
VIII you not dismount and walk?'
They are grazed like sheep among the
cliffs and crags, and will bound about
among the rocks like the chamols. When
wanted for posting relays they will
scamper at call, like an obedint dog, from
the hillsides to the gaarde or station.
They are positively companionable in
their natures, and seem to have the leu
tonic qualities of strength and endurance
with the Celtic strain of versatility, vi
vacity and genial enthusiasm. You cam
not travel in Norway without coming to
place the Norwegian ponies, in the pano-
rama OF your experiences and friend
ships, as among the most agreeable of
your acquaintance.
Whether the universal mad rush of
tourists from place TO place in Norway
has influenced certain governmental reg
ulations, or whether the latter have
brought about the half-crazy dispatch in
dulged in by travellers, l am unable to
say. They both exist, and both are in
teresting as spectacle and a study.
There are few places in Norway where
strangers rest and social pleasures are
enjoyed as at the American Newport and
Bar Harbor, at Torquay, Bideford, Bux-
ton and Malvern, in England, and at
RotheSay and Strathpetfer, in Scotland.
Along the splendid hords are a few sunny
spots with villas and charming inns, but
outside the cities and the few delightful
halting places beside the fiords there are
really no inns in Norway. Among all
her thousands of miles Of noble roads are
not a score of really comfortable hostel
ries. Instead OF these are what are known
as stations" They are found through
out Norway at distances of six to ten or
twelve miles apart, and their charges for
posting by carriole, and for some por-
tIOns OF actual food and lodging, are
regulated by governmental authority.
THESE stations, or kydstations," as
they are called in Norway, are subsi-
died by the State and are under strictest
Government control. There are two
classes. fast Stations" where a stated
number of carrioles, stollcarts and ponies
are required to be kept by the master,
and the tilsigelse," or slow stations"
which are not compelled to furnish any
more conveyances or ponies than can be
conveniently kept, or procured from
neighboring farms. The slow stations
are also known as ''forbud" stations, be-
cause the tourist is liable to be detained
for hours, and perhaps days, at these,
unless he sends "forbud," literally a
to bespeak his requirements. This for
bud'' is the Norwegian courier, but is a
far less imposing and costly one than he
who provides the chief bane and ex-
pense of travel in Switzerland and the
Latin countries. The "forbud" may be
a gentle old man, lively lad or robust
barelooted lass, and in any case the in
significant fixed fee and the trifing
gratuity you may add, are received with
such protusion OF bowling, Misunderstanding
and ''mange tax" (many thanks), that
use of the 'forbud" invariably proves a
convenience and pleasure.
All OF these posting stations have what
is called a daybook (dagbog) always
lying upon the common-room liable. On
its first page IS the actual contract made
between the Government and the station
master. 1t shows how many beds the
station shall be provided with, the tariff
for the same, the number and character
of vehicles and the number of horses to be
in use, II a fast station, as we'll as the eX-
act charge for prescribed mode of convey
ance to the next station each way. AS
the average official rate for posting does
not exceed three cents per English mile,
the tourist can himself ascertain the ex-
act expense from one station to another.
Y ou are also protected against imposition
in the tendency OF landlords 10 detain and
retain their guests for profit The handy
daybOOk stands sentinel against this.
Each traveller, or representative of a
party, before leaving a station, must
write his name in the daybook and state
the exact number of conveyances en-
gagged. so that any one following alter
may know if the absent vehicles fill the
required quota.
1t is creditable to these sturdy Norwe-
giap folk that when party arrives at
fast" station only to find that there is
not a sufficient number of conveyances,
though the legally required number is in
use, that good breeding rather than bully
ing and bribes will universally secure
some sort of relief from your dilemma.
a Norwegian station master is very sell
dom a trucking landlord, lie is almost
always bonder, that is, a proprietor of
large lands about the station, and far
mer on respectable scale, who has been
required by the Government TO provide
posting and entertainment facilities. In
several instances coming under my OBJ
servation he is the schoolmaster, and l
know of two VINO are clergymen. These
men all have certain pride in their in
dividual possessions. their position or
character. Recognize this and you will
lead a charmed life upon the roads OF
Norway. Gracious behavior will bring
q score of ponies from the hills, and stoll-
carts from the outlying farms il you re-
quire them; but il you intend being a
boor or cad among these quiet, proud
spirited people you should bring along