The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1893-10-10

frauded of their just d1e, Tor the e.
signs are more than designs this season.
They are 50 many perfect pictures, each
after its Find. IhaTc seen pictures paint
ed by artists which we're not nearly 50
artistic and true to nature rs are sOf2e Of
these. There is a dark ground-sOI.e-
times black india sillc-with the moi
perfect flowers scattered over il, IS i
thrown by baby'5 hands, some Of thcIn
crushed and faded q little, as though they
had been held too close IN tho loving
grasp and had wiltcd under the warm
cares5 The tiny daisies, cowslir5 OF
violets are Iaaryels Of dclicacy, and then
there are others where there are broken
OF blossoms OF the pink wax bcgonia,
tiny spriys OF parsley leaf pattern and
broken fronds OF maidenhair fern, rus
set and REDEEMED under too bright sun.
There are others with small branches
Of pussy willows In bud and bloom, and
perfect orchids in their gorgeous color
ing, and pale, brittle leaves. Tiny rose
buds lying on TOse gcraniuIn leaf that
is partly green and partly faded yellow
arc seen in one pattern, and pink pine
pernel makes another. So do the doll
cate white clliclrweed and apple bios
SONS and clover blossoms both white
and red, and q few velvety pansies. But
the taste of the artists seems to have
turned rather toward the dcspised and
overlooked beauties that lie about us.
One beautiful pattern Of n gray green
ground has pine needles strewn over it,
some of them singly and others IN
punches of five or six all in hccQ
There is no set figure, or If there IS 1t j.
not repeated often enough to permit the
whole to appear at one view.
One most exquisite pattern had = pearl
gray ground. with irregular pale par
plish blue leaves in two shades and moss
rosebuds with short broken stems III
pink and purplish blue woven IL the
cheney pattern, SO that it looked like tho
colors of mountains seen through the
misty haze Of distance. Some other pat
terms have disks Of one color or another
on tho background, and lying partly on
the disk and partly on the solid color
half opened pink daisies or some other
small flower, which makes an artistic
contrast and pleasing whofe. y few
have geometrical figures alternating
with pattern Of broken twigs, the pref
test being q black ground with very
pale green rhomboidS and twigs of the
-i'5 cIlicory, also IN pale green, with n
blue flower IN each one. But ti1o-" are
hundreds OF vary ing paCJet1Is, all e1qu1s-
itely lovely, so that it is hard to choose
from them.
To suit the matter 10 every purse these
patterns are all reproduced in sateen,
fine cambrics and challies. The dark
grounds are likely to appear clean longer
than the others, but those with the light
er grounds arc far prettier and more
summary.
How are they to be made? Well, here
Is a picture that will show you. One
has ground of French gray, with PIN
pernel blossoms and leaves for q pattern.
The skirt Is gored and without ruffie or
ornament aroCnd the bottom. Over it
il a quaint cape, which, after encircling
the shoulders, forms a sort Of waist dra-
perry easily understood by the ilUstra-
non, and this then forms sash panels
which reach to tho bottom. This Is OF
faille in dull blue. =
Z lovely pink batisto was r:sade up IS
IL it was the most extravaganza silk, with
six gathered founces, each headed by
band Of bias silk, cllangeabls ell rose
and gold, the cape reTers and stole ends
ali of the same These bands are sewn
over stiff muslin and then loosely CIT
stitched on 80 that they can b2 removed
e necessary to have the gown washed,
but it could. barring accidents. 10 worn
one season 1T least without requiring it.
Among the other lovely new spring
and summer cotton fabrics che finds
empire brocades, satin striped and plaid
gingharns, French twills, rayOnette,
figured and heIustitched; chiutz, two
toned figures; gloria fOulard and mum