New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-09-03
BY HERCULESs PILLARS.
At THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR-JOURNEY TO
MORoCCO-THE MARKETPLACE
AT TANGIER
Tangier, Morocco, June q.

JangleT,
When one has passed frequently over the variou
route. an the Continent done UP ireland from thu
IAkes OF Killarney to the Giants Causeway. wan
dered to StafYa, sailed UP the fjords OF Norway
meandered through the streets OF the German an,
Russian capitals, dtned at the various CARES a.
Paris and become almost as familiar with Londor
A with New-York. II Is quite a new sensation tc
ret 70 the south Of Spain and thence to the north OF
Africa. The idea that many people have OF Glbrai
tar IL mainly that derived from their college days
that It invincble fortress held in ancient days
by the Phoenicians and now by the British where
on one Of the pillars Of Hercules was QUILT aho
although some have read Mr. Fields interesting
book. ION Gibraltar" and perhaps the sketch py
Richard Harding Davis In a recent NUMBER OF
s'Harpers Weekly" the majority OF Enshsh-speak-
ing people do not understand that II Is city
''built upon a rock" with population of over 2ooN
people, with good hotels. beautiful drives around
the Mediterranean Sea, with its alameda
(garden) tastefuy laid out. where. amid most
iuxuriant growth of geraniums oleanders, the aloe
and the olive capped by cacti Of remarkable d.
mansions. mixed throng arrayed In all manner
of costumes, from the turbaned Moor, the spanish
Don, the English soldiers. the facile Greek, down
to the unpretentious American citizen. wander dur
ing the afternoon to the strains Of fine military
band. There hospitals and churches The re-
ligfous element being mixed. there two bishops
and the various nations OF the earth are repre-
scented by their consus. l delivered my letter OF
introduction to our American Consul, Mr. Horauo
l. Sprague a most genial gentleman. who has &C.
cuped his present office for over forty-six consecu
tive years. and who gave us permits to the gar
ierfes" These galleries are actually tunnels
within the rock, on the north front which rise In
tiers above the other and command the eh're
entrance to the straits and TO the narrow strip Vi
land known as 'the neutral ground, whion sepa-
rates Gibraltar from the Spanish frontier ana
which II removed would render the massive rock
AN
than IL Is at present
You drive In a carriage TO the entrance oi
these Notifications or you can ride mules OF uoi-
keys entirely through the galleries The ascent ~
not very steep. and at the distance or about ninety
feet apart embrasures cut in the rock IN which
bristle guns of the newest description. which at
moment's notice can be brought to bear upon land
and sea Besides these batteries within the actual
rock Of Gibraltar to which the ordinary visitor is
admitted there are other subterranean passages.
only 10 he visited by special permits, and In addi-
ton all these masked batteries the military
offences on the lower part Of the rock most
surprising and what with the Victoria Battery,
the DEVILS Tongue Battery the Orange Bastion,
the Ragged Staff Stairs and the Jumpers Battery,
the traveller that indeed the fort must be in
vincble. Every possible device for bombardment,
blowing up ships. exploding mines and killing men
upon which. indeed. generally depends the sue
cess Of war; be found here. l cannot be
technical in describing these varied apparatuses of
destruction and (beng doctor more IA
niliar with the methods by which men die. Sc
cundem artem. | shall, therefore, leave the sub
ject Of murder for after consideration. l may say
here, however. TO show the Importance Of the
place. that the British products exported to Glib
raltar amount to f660.000 year, and that the
collected revenue is sufficient to support the city
In times of peace the garrison consists of 5000
men and costs England 100000 annually and
there stores and water cisterns within the for
O a
men for two years The impregnability Of this Won
derful and gigantic lion. lying with his mighty
head looking over the blue waves Of the Mediter-
ranean, may be conceived when it is remembered |
hat General Elliot held it for four years with |
1000 troops, some Of them in wretchedly fororn |
condition against the entire army and navy of
Spain and France. In simple letter like this, one
cannot 60 into particulars which are, or ought to
be- laid down in the guide books. But the sensa-
ton Of wonder produced upon me grew more and
more intense wandered through one of the clean
est and least odoriferous markets have ever seem
n which Strawberries cherries, melons, figs in abun-
lance were resting luscious in the green leaves; |
where the meats were well dressed and in great |
arety, and where. in their own quarter. the dirty
egged Moors and bearded Hebrews were disposing
Z chickens alive and dead and eggs which, from
heir appearance. were decidedly fresh. dined at
good hotel, and wended my way at night through
arrow and picturesque streets lighted with electric
ghts
Since the establishment by the North German
lloyd Company OF regular and well-conducted
Inc Of steamships from New-York to Genoa, stop
ling at Gibraltar this little city. this remarkable
ock rising sheer out of the sea 1A0 feet; this
,reat key to the blue Mediterranean and to the
countries whose shores washed by its waves;
his once supposed lend of the world; this his
orical and nvincible fertilization will become bet
err known, and will be the frequent resort for
hose who not only seek 1t for itself but the
Of no |
d6itico-dplomatic capital of the Empire Of Mo-
occo which presents even more novel experiences
n manners customs and popularity of appear
lnces than Gibraltar itself
/ must turn to the guide-book to find how
ancient this city is how it was once so prosperous
hat 1t was called the City Protected by the
Lord" and that its population is about 1900. about
700 OF which Europeans. After this l must
give. they say at prayer-meetings. my
oeriances." The Joaquin Peleago yacht-built
steamer. leaves Gibraltar three times week for
Tangier and Cadiz making the trip In day. the
return passage being made on the alternate days
The voyage. like all such excursions by sea, Is
smooth and sometimes rough. Ours was
smooth one. although l contradicted in this
by several of ladies. No sooner does the
smoke. rising black against the perfectly blue sky
proclaim the coming of the vessel. than large and
rather unwieldy boats propelled some by and
some by sails. surround the steamer. The boat
men scramble board with catlike agility and
the poor traveller who is not fortunate
enough to be accompanied by courier a guide,
md then pandemonum begins. The is per-
Getty bewidering to stranger. Moors and Chris
isns, Jews and Greeks. natives Of Soudan and
rez clothed in the varied costumes of their sec
IONS someson hooded gehabs others in bemous
While others again In more modern costumes all
more or less ragged. tender their services as por-
ers The wild gestculation, the screaming, the
ostling the pulling and hauling at your baggage,
re apt even to brighten you into immediate meek
ess or to make you frightfully mad One passen-
er from New-York had both handles torn from
Is travelling bag by two burly Moors who
truggling to possess themselves of it. 1t is
ght to observe these porters From both mental
xcitement and bodily exertion they all of a
weat Their black copper-colored or yellow skins