Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1893-02-11

birds wing. The solemn grandeur and
awful impressiveness Of the place are
appalling.
The descent was more dangerous than
the climbing, but we accomplished Il
safely. re.entercd the boat and made for
Port Magee. never wish to see Great
Skellig again-unless from the deck Of
an Atlantic steamer when a sight Of II
as the first glimpse OF Europe is occasion.
ally had and as we rounded the reef
into the safer channel, while night was
softly descending, and the lights from n
thousand mackerel.hshers's boats CLEAN.
ed along the western horizon, | turned
with a sigh Of relief from this tremend-
Gus and desolaie terror OF the deep, to
welcoming land. as from some hideous
phantom OF unhappy dreams.
Valletta, the chief city Of Malta, Is
never silent save In the early morning
hours. Then II Is Ikea city OF the dead;
but always sweet and cool and winsome.
AT that time u you are abroad alone.
the silent churches the huge auberges,
the tremendous ramparts. the vast arch
ways, the dim porticoes and the shadowy
balconies seem to whisper anew their
tales Of romance old, their mysteries Of
chivalrous and knightly days.
Blu, soon from this patio, from that
narrow thoroughfare, another silent
archway. from huge barred doors that
open and close with a startling click,
come funeral forms, clad In somber
black. They glide along with bowed
heads. Their advent has been so sudden
and their number Is at once so great
that you are filed with surprise and
dismay. But these do not remain.
For soft and delicate hand, as II by
accident, with a swift motion changes
the folds Of the /aiiefid, and the pretty
faces of half a thousand Maltese maids
and matrons are one by one turned
roguishly or kindly TO yours. Then you
realize that the faithful fair OF Valet,a arc
on their way to early mass, and you
stand there, hat In had, yourself a
rcverent worshiper. mentally blessing
one and all for their piety and pretty
gracious ways.
In the vast geography and panorama
OF travel certain places and objects take
on special Implication and significance.
AT least this Is true In my own cx-
perience as warderer. never see in
any port u !, squatty, high.pooped
brig with It's two, tiny. square-rigged
masts, but my mind instantly reverts 10
Barcelona and the sunny harbors Of the
Riviera. A basket OF eggs in a grocer's
window no longer recalls the boyhood
farm days but certain barren ledge
upon the western sea wall OF Fitiul
Head, where beneath the deafening
screams OF sea-fowl | saw not thousands
but millions Of sea-fowl eggs. The
faintest odor Of sugar or SYRUP brings
back the screeching OF SHIPS wenches
rs oceans Of murky sweets are being
slowed In holds In the harbor oil Havana.
An emigrant Russian Jew in his quaini,
patriarchal habit, flashes back upon my
mind the dumb suffering Of these folk
in Cracow. Any mufiled Italian SILVER
ing over his charcoal stove and tray OF
chestnuts watts to my Imagination the
o6or Of the steaming polenta or brings
again to sight the far chestnut groves oil
Lombardy aud Tuscany; and so on
through an infinite reach Of suggestive
seeming and association.
But the most drcamiul, mystic, almost
pathetic suggestivenes always comes
with picture or sight Of the palm tree.
Cuba, Spain, Majorca, Malta, Morocco,
Algeria always return with this emblem
OF dolorous ISOLATION and inexpressible
loneliness. 1t hints OF the camel, the
Bedouin, the desert. In art, in story, in
fact II ever suggest the endless hope
lessness and impossibility OF the barriers
between the races that subsist upon an
rest beneath il, and those who know and
love the maple, beech and oak.
wish to record a conclusion from ex.
tended observation In favor Of the low
ly women OF Scotland. We have all
read much In books, and in the prints
where names are not often enough
signed to sweeping cancellations re-
garding foreign peoples, to the effect
that lowly women oil Scotch towns and
cities are all woiully addicted to drink.
do not believe Il. .0s
They drink, but neither do all nor
even any important percentage indulge
in liquor at all. Those who do, often
get CHEEKY" and no doubt they would
be better OIL without II. But have never
seen Scoth woman, high or low, in or
out Of Scotland, even in the most wretch.
ed wynds and closes OF Edinburgh or
Glasgow, approaching that emphatic
condition termed lighting drunk"
So, too, am inclined to believe that
the drinking prowess OF Scotcmen has
been greatly exaggerated. Scotch litera-
turc, especially that portion giving ex.
preston to Scoth life and customs OF
century ago, is certainly full OF the
humor and pathos OF drunkenness.
Perhaps Scotchmen were drinkers OF
valor then; but there is not a more
moderate and well ordered people to-
day. The old clearinghouse of the clan
chiefs, and, later, Of the small nobility
and country notables, are no more. From
the great St. Andrew ieasis down
through the countless grades OF social
festival and cheer TO he simple heart.
lightenings OF the fisher folk, beside the
wild sea-lochs, who were once almost
savage in their thirst for strong drink,
guiding and drunkenness are almost
unknown. ''ray"-and oceans of this
--''the cup that cheer but not inebria,es"
has almost universally displaced the
fry AS9Hebdnch OF old. I,
If a ionduess for liquor fingers in
Scotland rs class peculiarly, II still
holds among those children Of the
mist" those impetuous, cdnny, though
ever winsome llighlanders of the North
In my wanderings among them have
found one curious characteristic. They
are born religious dispulanls. Warm up
the cookies of their hearts with drop
OF peat whiskey, and they are masters
OF polemics, II is then that they will
stoully assert that Adam spoke Gaelic
and that the Bible was originally written
in Gaelic, As a Highland clergyman of
Strathglass once told me; "One glass
makes them doctrinal enthusiasts, two
sets them eNpounding every point upon
Justification Adoption and 'Sancti-
hcaiion' In an ecstacy Of argumeniative
frenzy; and, ! sometimes think, with