The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1893-07-21

The diagram shows the two lines between
which to cut, and whatever is cut out
should be taken from the exact center
This diagram makes an allowance for short
sning three inches. If one inch only is need
ed, let it be taken from the middle, and the
proportions of the whole will remain I'M
changed.
When the waist is for very slender per-
son, the center back should be cut down
and enough taken off to bring it to nearly
The right width, and half an inch should be
cut off both sides of both side back and side
front pieces.
and the whole front is narrowed by taking
off from one-half an inch to as much as is
necessary on the front and also on the sides
and arm size.
Once the dressmaker has drafted well
proportional diagram 1t Is better to follow
It, making what changes are necessary to
adapt it to different figures.
The process of basting the seams and try
ing on the gown and then fitting it by pin
ming it in is as old as dressmaking itself,
and no matter how scientific system"
may be made to look by means of tin or
brass apparatus the waist has to be fitted
Just the same.
When the waist is made for a very slen-
der person, it can be made to take grace
full form by stitching piece OF wigan or
tailors buckram across the chest part, TAX
ing it up in the darts and quilting 1t onto
The lining. This will hold the waist out
sufficiently full to give it graceful shape
without being cumbrous or too warm.
Habits are made this way very often.
When the dress waist under the dress
makers hands Is to be cut short and round,
itshould be cut off at the lower line on the
diagram and finished under a belt or with
asmooth edge, as is preferred.
If waist is to be gathered French or
spencer style, the front under arm piece is
omitted, and the front parts are cut off at
the waist line and extended out under the
arm, following the line marked X, and no
larts are cut in the outside, though if de-
sized the lining can be fitted with darts and
The outside gathered down.
For French waist or blouse only three
pieces are required, the two fronts and the
pack, which is all one and can be cut by
laying back and side back pieces together
and following the line marked X, which
gives the required fullness. If the dress is
for a slender person, the back part should
not be so wide and can be cut down the cen
Ter of the side back to the waist line and
square to center of back. There should be
no seam in the center of the back, which
should be cut lengthwise of the cloth.
To make a surplice waist the goods should
be gathered onto the shoulders, as marked
with o, and drawn across the bust to the
left side, leaving the neck V shaped. The
left side finishes at the closing line, with
lat buttons or hooks and eyes. The fasten-
ing is not seen, and the folds on the left side
are arranged in the same way, coming from
The shoulders. The belt for the part which
laps extends over on the left side about four
inches. The surplice waist is one of the
prettiest, particularly for summer gowns
and slender figures, but it must be draped
either on the person or on tin figurine
which has much the same form as the per-
son, as the folds must be arranged so that
as soon as the belt is fastened they will
TALL naturally into place. They cannot be
lacked or fastened except at shoulder and
waist. Surplice fronts have plain gathered
backs.
In gathering French waists the gathers
should not reach under the arms, but all
that space under the arms that would be
occupied by the side pieces should be left
plain.
In cutting or diagramming for evening
gowns the dressmaker must diagram first
for basque, which is the fundamental
principle of all waists, and then cut out the
Top as desired-V shaped, round shoulder
I'd, heart shape or square neck-first mark
ing about where 1t Is to be cut and allow
ing it at least two inches higher than 1t is
expected to be. The neck should never be
cut to finish until tried on. Dropping ber-
thas or ruffies make it appear lower than II
really is Pulled trimmings of tulle, lace
or ribbon make it appear higher. Pointed
waists look more slender, but round ones
are rather preferred just now.
To have waist lace or fasten In the back
abe fronts. must. be cut in lining first and
sewed together and carefully fitted, after
which the outside can be put ON and should
BE tried on again until not one wrinkle
shows. The back pieces are cut so as To
have the outside lap under, as the fronts
usually do. IL eyelet holes are worked,
there must be piece which laps under at
least two inches Of. the same goods, so that
IL the cords stretch no gap is seen. Hooks
and eyes more often fasten the under side,
and the lacing is more for style. The back
must be strongly boned when 1t closes in
that way No style is so pretty for even
me- and none more difficult.
OLIVE HARPER.