The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-07-16

who named the biggest kind Of trunks
'Saratogas" were students of woman
kind. This is the temple of dress.
Narragansett Pier is famous for its
| bathing dresses, Newport it's yachts,
the White Sulphur for its creamy blonde
| beauties, Saratoga for frills and furbe-
lows.
| Here may one study, for instance, the
! evolution of the cape, for evenings
are cool and the day not long enough
! for pleasures round. The cape of two
founces is studied moderation: the cape
of five is elegant sufficiency; the cape
that is all fleece and flutter, gauze and
! glitter, daring tremor of lace and
sheen of silk, is the cape at which
women stare longingly over their
shoulders There is one|I have seen it
which is like nothing so much as
butterfy's wings fully distent and
forming half circle of daring color.
The shoulder line is straight along
the top; that is the diameter of the cir
Gle and from its widely extended points
sweeps the great are of the garments
to far below the waist. perfect semi
circle. Edged it is with broad band
of lace, and even this seems to stand
out at the shoulders in defiance From
its wide shoulders and swelling skirt,
its broad-brimmed hat and balloon
sleeves the gown of 1898 seems to say:
admire. but come not near" and how
ever it may be about the first, one cam
not choose but obey the second part of
the injunction.
Yet have mine eyes beheld a bruno
of fine figure and splendid healthy col
oring-l know not who or whence she
may be-who wears a gown of black.
with simple skirt rather narrow and al
most untrimmed, with sleeves of only
moderate fullness above the elbow and
bodice neat and plain, and who, with
bunch of red flowers at her breast. is
almost the prettiest and best dressed
woman here. What troubles the women
Is that they cannot tell whether the
pretty bruno made her own costume at
trifiing expense or it is the masterpiece
of some arti& whose inspiration never
kindles for less than three figures.
You can't always tell, of these simple
gowns.
Is there warrant for so much sim
plicity? Has the craze for expansion
reached its limit. and is there reaction
in the air? Perhaps not, probably not,
just yet; but there are always con-
servatives. and the best dressed women
are often of their number.
Conservatism there is none in gown
of shimnering heliotrope. barred thrice
about by band of black satin. begin
ming upon the left hip and spirallv de-
sceuding ike-would it be wicked to
say it?-the stripes on a BARRIERS pole
Above this fantasy. in which must not
be forgotten huge black bows at the
beginning and the end Of the oblique
band. above the too slender waist.
above the black bodice with its large
rundown collar and revers arise full
sleeves of the petunia cloth. falling in
succession of eascade-like pufTs from
shoulder 70 elbow. thence sl1in-tieht to !
the wrist. Most modistes would put a
touch of black at the wrist again. This
one had not done 50: and she was right.
1t is well for an arm To be plump. for a
wrist to be slender. and bands about
Il do not make il seem so.
How about cape of green cloth.
emerald green. they call il. but it Is /
really darker than that, with lining
of mauve? Daring combination. il
would once have been called. but any +!
thing goes with anything now. and the !
Kaleidoscope is designing dresses as
well as oil cloth In this lovely cape i
the color contrast is insisted upon. fer .
the full plated collar rising unco1n-
fortably high about the neck shows the T
lining at every fold. and so DO each Of .
the three full plated &C pellets of which
the garment Is composed Put upon
this cleaning color the glimIner Of
bizarre trimming. coins aud beads AID