Morning journal and courier., 1893-08-26
" HAVEN, CONN, SATURDAY MORNING, AUGUST 26, 1898

faces, to unused, eager eyes and haunted,
hungry hearts.
Scenicslly considered, Scarborough and
hsrbor remind you instantly of Naples
and Its wondrous bay. Were it not for
the Hydrologic, historic and poetic ssso-
| Citations with which all the beautiful en-
| virons of Naples are rife, q favor of which
| cannot but at some time and in some way
touch the fancy of every traveller of sym
| pathetic aud receptive mind, believe old
Scarborough and harbor, ct least when
viewed from the sea, would prove TO the
beholder a more beautiful scene. Like the
bay of Naples, Scarborough hsrbor has a
| noble, crescentshaped sweep from cliff to
headland. 1t has not a mysterious and
awful Vesuvius behind, but It has a SEQ
| ond crescent of verdure-clad hills, q cir
cling thread of emerald above the check
cred line of white and red where nestle it's
comfortable ancient homes. 1t has no Po-
stlipo sbove whose vineyard heights were
the Georges and the Eneid composed and
where still sleeps gentle Virgil, but
dreadful and weird were It's scourges and
sieges from the time of Harold Hsdrads to
the first Charles. 1t had no Tssso as had
the olive and chestnut groves of Naples
Sorrento. But the splendid ruins of its
once majestic headland castle preserve, in
the fact of his years imprisonment here,
the memory of one who accomplished as
much for humanity as Virgil and Tasso to-
gether-the brave and gentle founder of
the Society of Friends; and somehow, in
ail the splendid scene, while you may miss,
the half original color of the dazzling view
beneath italian skies, there comes to you
q hesrtier, nobler sense of kinship with
habitation and humankind, earth and
sky and ocean, that win completely to
the bravo old Saxon town which Gets on
Roman walls beside the Northern sea.
From Castle Hill the South Sands cir
Gle away nearly two miles to the south.
The foreshore is fully fourth of a mile In
width, with the gentlest possible declina-
ton into the sea, and each receding tide
leavea il as smooth, hard and sweet SIS
newly scrubbed pine floor. Down to this
finest beach il Europe, the old city
crowds in curious buildings, jumbles of
roofs and terraces, and the oldest and
| pleasantest of streets, from the outlying
| hills. If there were no shore, no ses,
| and no thousands of idlers and bathers
| in bright medley to be seen, the lovely,
lesfy stair-like town would still be q
| pleasant place to zee. At the highest
| places are fine villas, great hotels aud
| splendid homes, rich in settings of ample
| verdure, curious old walls, strange and
Il
| and stone ornaments of cepturies ago.
| Cross streets, circIing with the hsrbor
crescent, show odd high walls and glimpses
| of gables anu creeping vines through
stone approaches, like winsome embra-
sures on the one hand, and on the other
you can almost step upon the red filings
of quaint old roofs below But mora
| pictures q ue than thsse are the thorough
fares, most of them morrow and shsdowy.
which tumble from the Hill to the shore.
| Ancient St. Ives, on the Cornish western
coset, is like Scarborough hsre. Many OF
| these streets are both stair and thorough
fare The roofs of all the houses sre
like the terraces of Alsiers. Most curl
GUS architectural bits are found half.
hidden n tiny courts. Windows seem to
have sprung through rOofs; balconies
overhsDg succeeding roofs; landings lead
| into etreet doors aud second story ens
| frances of the Rsme house; everywhere
| are potted flowers ard ferns, vines upon
| trellises, roses trained across windows;
| and between the gables or across roofs,
continual changing glimpses of the fore
shore show a mass of Kaleidoscope color,
| like huge bank of flowers set closs 10 the
ehImmering blue of rippling sea
| Not only is all this at your feet for
contemplation If you are lettering on Cas-
tie Hill, but the spars of fishing smscks
| and other curious craft are like q reedy
sedgs beneath you to the south. Then
comes the old harbor and its mossy pier;
the bay filled with pleasure sails flying
hither and thither like great white birds
skimming low along the ripping sheen of
blue; and beyond, the stsely blue of the
North sea, with fishing 1eets at anchor in
tiny patches, or merchant ships souddinR
to the Baltic and the north; with now and
then trailing plumes of smoke from dis
tant steamers close ard low upon the far
horizon rim. To the north another cove
outs into the high and lofty shore. Land
ward are moors, send dunes, ragged cliffs,
hung with rank and trailing verduTe, and
cove and cliff and moor, stretching FAR
with higher and more precipitous snoTes
TO where the North sea thundsrs endlessly
against the headlands of weird and dresry
Robin Hoods bay.
All about you are the ruins Of the an
oient and stupendous castle which was
once the glory of Scarborough. Vast In.
desd were the medieval strongholds oi
Britain, and this one, well nigh impregns
BILE in its time, was one cf its hughest for
tressss of the entire eastern coast. II wsi
built by Earl William LIE GTos, who mar
ried Adelizs, daughter of William tn.
Corquerer, and who ruled In the east will
princely authority. When Henry II. en-
: deavored to break the power of the nobles
which eclipsed the authority of the crowI
and commanded the demolition of thei
castles, be came here In person to see thi
great pile rszed, but struck with its splen
did proportions and impregnability, In
= creased It's strength and msgni6cence In
stead. The tremendous most on the land
ward side is well preserved. The statel,
keep Is still nearly one hundred feet higl
g with walls twelve feet in thickness; and II
/ the castle yard can still be traced tn
, splendid chapel which once was here, fo
no men were more pious than were thee
4 mighty pillsgers and muTderers of old.
: The beauty and fashion to be seen a
g SCARBOROUGH are pronounced enough t
give the place all the gaiety of Brighton
London sends thous8nds here for the ''ses
con-" which continues from May until o;
tober, and the great interior msnufactul
[ ing cities, Ike Birmingham, Mancheste
. and LeeGs, divide their fashionable sun
mer patronage between Scarborough en-
j. the Peak of Dsgbyghire, but the place
e Enthusiastically different from any othe
4 seaside resort / have found in Englart
The rich and titled who visit Scarboroug
seem to be here for rest ard health ratht
q than for rounds of gsiety and fsshionGbl
y enjoyment. Whstevsr may be its spell
!. you are no sooner within Il than a spir
OF idllng, lettering and delightful dresu
full lsziness possess you, At the grel
l. balls, concerts and promensdes on h
# Cliff all procedure is measured, quiet al
4 stately. There are 10 blsre and flare |
Scarborough. The shops are shady, CO.
Is and quiet. Go the whols length of Yves
n borough, Marlborough and Easrborous
r street, from the high railway station to Il
,s glesmicg sands, and though your stro
10 may have brought you in contact Wit
e from twenty to thirty thousand peopl
4 you will not have heard a sound thi
s would disturb the placid serenity OF
e sunny country church lane II is &
d thosgh the breeze, the sun, the sea an
/ the gray old town of gray old stall
> soothed the irritsbility and even ordInAr
d activity of men into a gentle coDp!eoent
+ and peace.
# This peooliarity ia still more notiasab
? upon the beach. In all other eeaside r
II sorts have syer visited the sands alws,
presented o scene of rollicking activity an
3 life. Men, women and children wera IA
a | of lid fnfpyfaatipp arI ,