The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1893-03-17
FOLLY OF FASHION.
An Oppressive and Tyrannical
Ruler.
Who Begins the Trouble e-"out of
Fashion is to be Out of the World,
How Masks for Deformity Have
Become Popular in Wearing APP
parel.

Fashion is tyrant, always has been,
ana Always will be-a cruel, oppressive
ruler, dragging its victims from one ex-
IRENE TO the other; twisting, turning and
pulling them into ungainly shapes and
converting them into deformed automa-
tons; scarcely hating long enough in its
orgies to allow familiarity, delighting in
hothlng so much as bodily torture and
general Inconvenience. The hopeless
ness OF the fight against fashion has long
since been recognized. AS long as the
world stands there will be fashions and
some one to cater to them.
ITO be out of fashion is to be out of the
world" is trite saying, but if fashion
was to cease torturing the martyrs of it's
HolIe world for a short time-long enough
Tor them to consider comfort and health
there would be great many deserters
from the ranks.
OF all the devotees, how few give a
thought to the originator of fashion !?
y OF one IN hundred knows the leader of
the rad which they adopt with such avid
Ivy. 1t may be some one who manipu-
lated a dress from sheer want of material,
or having too much for one tried to use it
all, giving the garment an amplitude of
IAN draughtsman starving in a garnet. Is
may have been any one of these, but
more llkeIy 1t Is the invention of an illus
trlous invalid fashioned TO cover some
physical defect, and if it takes, it is ONLY
a matter of few months until an arti-
nclal deformity can be purchased in the
general store OF the most secluded ham
let.
Alexandra of Russia, a relative of the
Prince OF Wales, is accountable for the
origin OF the hustle, which she adopted 10
hide spinal aflliction. Wigs were first
worn by the Duke Anjou, to conceal a
personal defect. Charles VII. of France
introduced the long coat TO hide his i'll
made legs, and Henry Plantagenet in
vented the long-toed shoe (which after
ward attained a length of two feet to
cover very large eXcrescence he had on
one of his feet When Francis /. was
obliged TO wear his hair short on account
OF wound in the head, the crop became
the prevailing fashion at the court almost
Immediately. AT one time it was con-
sldered very indelicate to display the
handkerchief, and might have been so
yet had not Queen Anne had deformed
teeth and used it as means of hiding
them when speaking in court, and thus
You might go on euumerating fashion
after fashion which had its origin in this
manner.
Begin at the ninth century and the
cottes hardes Of the fashionable ladies'
those tight fitting, scooped-out, sleeveless
covercoatS by which the women sought
to give themselves the appearance OF hav-
ing trim waists, whether natural or not
ana we ma fashion at the head OF quite
an army. A century later an unmistak-
able corset, with bones and lace COM
piete, made It's appearance, and, together
with the sleeves and skirts SO long that
they had to be knotted up to keep out of
the wearer's way, completed a costume
that for elegance and style had never be-
fore been approached.
After time came the surcoats. 1t
would be hard to imagine what could
be said in their favor, but there must
have been omething-fashlon must al
ready have achieved fame as an inde-
fatigable eXcuse-mazer. They trailed on
The ground, about yard at first, but be-
fore the style changed they trailed so
many yards on the ground that Charles
y. OF France threatened to eXcommuni-
cate all who dared wear q dress which
terminated like the tail of a serpent"
Perhaps the first real healthy, full
grown lad was during the reign of Eliza
beth, when lawn and cambria frills first
came into use as an improvement on the
less luxurious holland. When the Queen
had her first RULES there was no one in
the kingdom able to starch them prop
erly, and she was compelled to send for Il
Dutch woman who understood the mys-
terry. Her first Starcher was the wife of
the coachman, Guillan, but after a time
Mrs. bingham Nanden Plasse, wife of
Flemish knight, became starcher to her
majesty the Queen, and established a
school in London, to which many ladies
sent their daughters and kinswomen.
Her terms We're Is for teaching the art
generally and 20 shillings additional for
teaching how to ''seeth'' starch
Every change in style is hailed with de-
light, and no matter what it is, the uni
NersaI verdict pronounces it the most
comfortable costume ever Worn, and
many go so far as to say they will never
discard it for another. This enthusiasm
generally lasts until the fashion plates
show change and then our darlings
have no peace of mind until their last
dress is altered TO conform with the latest
design or they purchase new one made
after that pattern. Three months from
that time, at the dictates Of tickle fashion.
il is all gone over again.
When crlnollne was adopted more than
a score or years ago almost every woman
in the land was tavorably impressed with
ii. "Crinoline is the most convenient.
comfortable, delightful, charming and
graceful part OF our costume,o said one
lady. 1T Keeps our clothes out of the
dust and mud, gives free scope and action
10 our limbs, ana, extending the skirt,
saves the plaits and folds, which are the
first to become frayed and shabby, and
therefore, you see crinoline has the addi-
tional advantage of being economical,
too." This was pretty much the senti-
ment of all-at least the sentiment they
expressed. But when so much could be
said tor 1t why was it so easily put to
rOut by the tight-titting skirt? Dame
Fashion simply sent out the edict and the
martyrs, without a deserter, fell into line
Tor fashions sake.
Tho Ind Il a.,
lO0o, when II became the custom 10 wear
patches cut IRON black cloth on the face.
Daring the different changes a figure OF
the moon was given prominent place
and when there was no moon stars were
worn. IN going on a journey figure of
stage coach, and four was glued 10 the
forehead, with perhaps the family crest or
coat of arms on either cheek. Birds. ami
mails aud reptiles skillfully cut and
pasted on the lace tended 10 give it the
appearance OF the advance sheets OF an
illustrated natural history. For five or
siN years this was considered the distinct
mark OF arlstocracy and was enthusiastic
cally adopted by those who had some dis
ngurement OF the lace or a beWiIching
dimple TO which they wished to call at
tention. y satirical poet writing OF it
says:
Her patches are of every cut,
For pimplcs and tor scars,
Here's ali the wandering planets signs
And some OF the liked STARS
Already gummed to make them stick
They need no utner SKY.
In the middle of the seventeenth CEN
furv a STYLE almost as ridiculous was in
vogue. At This Time a half mask was
worn with the fuu dress, and during the
reign of Charles II. few Ladies ever at
tended the theater or other entertain
meut without one: Before the style was
abandoned wizard masks, covering the
.,nrire face were worn by the ladies when