New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-26
FASHION NOTES.
NEW GOWNS AND NEW MATERIALS
LATEST SILK SklRTS-PRtTI

From all present indications the skirt las reached
he extreme limit OF width The French dresses I'm
ported for the during the week are not extreme
I'm Size They have the graceful fare which gives the
touch OF qualnfness TO the spring costumes but none
exceed four and a half yards In size at the bottom OF
the skirt and there are many which measure OILY
four yards The high facing Of hsrclo'h which has
been used in the skirts of winter gowns Is seldom
fuud I'm these French dresses. which are merely mn
islrd with an ntcrlining Of crnoline muslin or even
Of apnca not over ten or twelve inches deep, mus
giving ia. skirt all the body and flare necessary WIN
the light spring woods. The inevitable bhihyeuSe'
formed Of two overlapping ruies OF silk pinked out
ON the edges Is found the inside edge Of all th-
skirts.
4 season OF ruGHing may be safely predicted Inc
from from skirt covered with rulhes TO the waist l.
sur, 10 be a popular model for summer SILKS. these
rnffles may be- rs small two inches, Ike those re-
Gently described BY The Tribune, or they may De VII
five inches wide from the edge OF I'll" 5hirt 10 the
waist sometimes they merely pinked oil the
edges though a heater finish Is simple rolled hem.
A charming gown from Doucet, made with ruined
sIrt was OF striped surah halfnch stripes OF pale
p-t,,nia pink and Of gold color being internHed WIN
whit. stripes OF satin ,urah The skirt OF thS gown
was four and "A half inches wide. II was faceu Ten
inches deep With little sunenng, which was coverea
hy the silk lining OF the skirt. Seven bias runles'
graduated in sire and finished with halfinch hens
Of rru muslin and an Eton JACKET OF pare Pe,uh'"
colored cloth completed the dress.
While the skirts OF all elaborate dresses are gen
orally trimmed, the skirts OF street gowns may oe
uut- plain sls. Ornament"d With baads anu ioius'
som. Of .ur hest drcssmakers still believe that the
pres-n expansr OF skirt will be- disposed OF nv looping
II ND TO show an undersdrt and that by winter We
NAV seq return OF long draperieS ana underskirts'
But no one can predict with certainty. " Is safe to
say however that the brief crinoins fever Is over
and there Is no prospect OF return Of the wired hoop
OF n generation ago. However inventors are about
md hardly day passes In the large houses that some
br.wd pntentee does not appear with new arrange
mrnt for expanding the skirt. The wlrehoop sRirt'
II Is now believed. Is much thing OF the past
and ~ Impossible OF revival as the queer Md farthh-
gale Of Queen Elzabeths day. The mere fact that
few women have adopted hoops this winter and are
SIN wearing them has more 10 do with the case
than the fact that few old ladies' who cling 10 the
s,vl.s 81 their maiden days have always worn them.
There arc also u number Of manufacturers VINO nave
corncred Ia. markets" In certain kinds OF stinening
and who aid to keep up the talk. but none of the
rrerch dreS,.. thus far Imported demand any such
sunnort except "a facing OF crnollne muslin as an
mterllnng.
Tn. Iolc Fuller skirt. which falls In full kits on
the lower edge and Is without funess at the top, an
Illustration Of which was given In these columns not
long since l. popular style for young ladies' II Is
made generally OF light. sheer materials Ike grenadnc
ar cnuz. and frequently striped from the belt with
shaded ribbons A French dress with this skirt had
bodice trimmed with shaded ribbons and 1nshed
with q deem can, collar OF Venetian guipnre. extend
ing IN In. waist at back and turned away In front
in r.vcr~ siiil another French gown Of yellow surah
In mai. rheat.n gold dotted with black Is finished
with , Ida, run,r on the bottom. edged with yellow
,sc. and three Insertions Of lace about two and half
iuch., wide Baysdcre insertions of yellow lace also
l.r, fills lava
which extend over the forearm quaint old-fash-
iou, gown Of changcable wool crepOn. shading from
violet TO rose color Is opened over front breadth of
six which Il trimmed across with three rnfnes ABOUT
nv. inches deep. These RIFLES are finished with
rolling hem and put OH hy five rows OF stirring with
A narrow heading. The high, full sleeves and soft
fropt Of this gown are also Of changeable SILK
Another old. fashioned Trimming which Is found this
e,,ou on gowns Of fancy wool is Tom Thumb fringe.
This fringe Is not over half an inch wide and Is round
iu all III. mixed colors OF the spring weoens II 10
ps.d on dresses Of solid shade to give the necessary
touch Of rich color. well as on dresses OF mixed
wool Thus dress OF fancy wool In solid mode
color 4, trimmed with five groups Of Tom Thumb
frng, put on In pointed overlapping rows and grad
mated from i've rows on the bottom nine inches
below the waist. The dress Is finished with
pont.d woke OF velvet. back and front In mode color
changing to rose and the rcv"rS Of the material OF
IN. dress are edged with two rows Of Tom Thumb
tvo by a band Of velvet, while the lower part, which
NJ. clos. TO the elbow. Is covered with deep cuff Of
lace. A talbot and collar Of lace complete the neck
sam. of the most stylish gowns for summer wear
mr.. made figured striped p'lne. with plain round
skirts pointed belts and cl0sc-ftting Elton Jackets.
TN. newest blouse waists. which are to be- worn with
these dainty gowns. made with surplice front.
4 hemm.d breadth Is gathered on the shoulders and
crossed I'm front the ordinary shirt front and
Gathered again TO form an Empire belt at the back.
This shirt waist Is very pretty In sk. but 1t seems IA
little out Of keeping with the primness OF a linen
or cotton waist.
icht nryigcs Of linen bntise are already shown
,mnn" French underwear. although the summer I'm
nn,triious Of other lingerie are not yet In market
these pretty negge, found IN shell patterns In
ronccnic figures and other dainty designs In yellow
and white violet aud white. and india blues ana
white They generally mad" to fa full from the
nulcrs ~ back aud just aboN" the bust In 'front.'
where they are covered by little Jacket fronts reach
iur inst under the arm, dainiily tucked ana edged
cith d.ep falls OF guipure the new point de- Paris:
The sleeves are In huge bishop shape with fall OF
i.cc over the hands These picturesque gowns are
conarcd to The figure in front by ribbon, OF satin IN
vellnw violet or blue. by narrow black N"iN"t
.u,i.ns \ male violet gown Is dotted with l0Zengc