The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1893-04-09
Ipjudicious Use of Coiors.

New York Logger.
It's o curious fact that many women &C.
cept colors in q matter-of-cOurs sort of
way. following tradition and usage in an
absolutely blind fashion. They have heard
it said that blue is the proper thing for q
blonde and pink and yellow for brunettes.
Thoy seem to take 1t for granted that o
blonde is any sort OF o person having light
hair and medium to light complexion. and
80 we see colorless, dull, hat-lOokinR faces
set of in pale blue that makes them look
as tallowy and spiritless as their most
vicious enemy could desire.
A young woman with dark hair and an
abundance of color comes out In pink and
makes herself simply a caricature. 1t
keen on hand one yard of paper muslin of
every conceivable shade. lt would only
cost D or @ cents 8 yard. and when she
wanted IA new dress or a com binatlon suit
all she would have to do would be To wrap
some of those colors around her face or
neck and stndy the effect before the mir
ror. Then. if she were not as blind as the
proverblal bat. she might spare herself she
humiliation of being told that her new suit
wasn't becoming and her friends the tor
tnre of seeing her make herself simply RI
diculous. This suggestion is by no means
an idle one, and would save n great deal of
trouble as we'll as
Fashion Notes
All the nine gored skirts are lined to the
knee with crinoline. and. as q rule, the
seams are either covered with narrow
ginps or jet bands. or piped with silk or
satin.
The sloping shoulders are a relief almost
after the high deformities of the past. The
shoulder seam is hardly long enough to in
terfere with the movement of the arm. Its
length is added TO In appearance by the
high throat and by the deep bertha that
falls over the top of the sleeve.
Handsome Persian patterned silks and
satIns. used for vests and faciDgs. give a
rich and recherche effect to some of the
new tailor Jackets of Venetian cloth and
t-hree-Quarter coats of English kersey.
These elegant brooches are also used to line
the caDes and stole-fronted pelerines of
silk or velvet designed for special full
dress occasions.
After seasons Of pocketless gowns, dur
ing which the handkerchief has crawled
up sleeves. tucked itself In corsages. been
thrust under waist edges, to be lost by the
dozens from any OF these unreliable holding
places, the dressmakers have announced
that IN the elght-yards-8round skirts there
will be spared q few inches some here for
a pocket slit. and that a pocket will be at
tached thereto.
Ii is believed by many leaders of fashion
that the present outre modes cannot hold,
they being too hideous to last even for one
season. English designers are talking of
thO Jill III Va oOhAOn U " AuuO III
Austria. others believe that Elizabethan
rutties and stomachers will be worn. The
slashed sleeves of the Valois period are al
ready in vogue. also the Anne of Austria
sleeve formed or three pulls with wide, uO-
turned lace rutfie.
Pretty circular capes for summer are
made of a foundation of black surah or
hight lining satin: this covered with black
Bourbon lace. either Of one deep width or
of a series of capes-frills. the first six
rnahAQ vida tho nAvf 81 thu lnVAaf fnnr-
teen inches. There is O standing lace frill
for q finish. and a twisted silk or satin RIB
bon goes round the neck below this frill,
with long floating ends to tie in front.
The bertha Is q very different affair from
the outstanding, stlffened coilarette seen
on the big-sleeved, blg-skirted gowns. This
bertha Is q fall of lace or embroidery, six
inches or more in width. that drops softly
down in q modiste. demure sort of way
that. In contrast with the demUnstratlve
sly lie of gown. wins instant approval. The
skirt, too. does not flare. but rather is of
the clinging order: though full, il is
straight and round, and the sleeves hide
their pnffs under the bertha and are not ut
all Objectionable.
Black is exceedingly fashionable this
season. but. fortunately for many, not ex-
clusively SD. Black Is in very many cases
eminently and uudeniably becoming.
Black velvet is. of course. always "compli-
mentary." Black in other rich fabrics.
like brocade or lustrous silk. jet or velvet
trimmed. is likewise most becoming. In
other instances. however, il proves very
much the reverse. being frequently tar
more uncomplimentary In its effect than
colors; for while eminently refined
and lady like as u dress, 1t
has In scores of instances q
tendency to accentuate paleness or sallow-
ness. to give IA decidedly gray tingo TO u
colorless complexion, and to add years to
Its wearers appearance. or, IL the face is
extremely ruddy. to deepen its glow To a
magenta red. The choosing of a black
gown has. IN most cases. TO be decided per-
s%onally. and a mirror and q good light are
lar better guides than either q kind
hearted friend who dislikes TO be frank. or
a modiste who is neither Independent nor
competent.