davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1893-11-26

Cut from yellow wooden crepe show
ing q small design in black stars, the
skirt consists of bell-shaped upper and
circular lower half joined together
with two rows of shirring and small
head. The circular portion is three
yards wide and is garnished with lace
frill ten inches wide around the bottom
and by second frill of the stuff two and
a half inches in width ten inches above.
The jacket has yoke. alike in back
and front, to which the two front pieces
and back are shirred. with side
front under each arm. The sleeves have
fitted lining, and the puff is made OF
piece of material gathered to the cuff
and held in place near the elbow by
two-inch band Of black lace insertion.
The cuffs are also garnished with lace
insertion. The epaulettes come from
accordeon pested lace eight inches
deep. The yoke is made OF stuff and
lace insertion in the manner indicated,
and is finished by gathered lace frill
The herald., 1893-11-26

In the fourth sketch there ia another
fur trimmed wrap worn with boa and
muff to match. In this model, suit
able one for young matrons. the materl-
al ia black cloth made up without lining.
The circular double collar contests OF
cloth on the lower, and crossgrain on
the mpper side, the upper collar coming
down the fronts of the wray and being
trimmed with jet. This collar and fit
ted fronts are garnished with the fur.
Astrakan is to be much worn and the
Persian comes very high. The hair is
longer than ever and loosely curled.
One wonders if the cultivators OF fufs
have been dosing and rubbing their as
trakan animals all summer with hair
tonic stuffs. Astrakan is made up in
frock coats and capes and is to be much
used for trimming cloth gowns. To
meet the craze for "black and white" it
is made up with ermine, bu3 somehow
il does not look just right, for the as
trakan seems too common tor the
ermiue. Monkey is still uaed and is
cheaper than it was last year, but it ia
most awfully ugly now as always, and
after all not much nicer than its own
frequent imitator. dyed goat fur. Mar
tin not unlike sable OF the commoner
quality, is a good stand by fur and mex
penrive. A fur lately introduced is
called Janet and is for lining long cloake.
1t is soft, almost too soft to stand we'll
the wear that comes on lining OF q
delicate brown color and not expensive.
1t would be hard to say whether the
furred front OF the plush jacket in the
final picture is more for ornsment or for
protection.
1t has such fragmentory appearance
that at first glance it would seem worth
less as a security against the cold. bu'
it still is a protection for the chest whilt
being a decided addition to the Jackets
appearance. That garment is made o
The herald., 1893-11-26

terie. The silk ia gathered to the yoke
in front and back, the fullness kept in
place by paesementerie bands. The
wide belt is made of two bands of jet
passemeneterie divided by silk stripe.
The puffs of the sleeves are also trimmed
with Jet bands put over pink silk and
the gathered epaulettes are edged with
the same. The wrists and standing
collar are trimmed with ruching OF
black silk covered with illusion.
the model at the left in fourth sketch
if youthful one, and one particularly
suitable for slender figures. The mate.
rial used is red, blue and yellow finely
plaided cheviot, trimmed with yellow
satin and black watered silk. The skirt
must fit snugly over the hips and the
remainder is elashed to give the box
plests. At the top in front the pleats
are split to permit band of watered
silk to pass through and end in huge
bow at the left side. The bodice
has a round yoke and standing collar
made Of yellow satin. The seam, join
ing bodice and yoke, is hidden by cir
cular collar of black watered silk,
finished at the left aide with large
bow of watered ribbon. The openings
between the pleats are filed in by
pieces Of ribbon, to make it apper as if
the collar was run through the same as
the albion on the shirt. The puffed
le-o'mutton sleeves have turned back
cuffs of yellow satin. The right hand
dress is composed Of sand colored
cloth and garnished with velvet in a
darker shade. The skirt has a bell
shaped foundation which is covered with
three deep circular founces that are not
hemmed at the edges. The fitted bodice
hooks in front beneath the plastron Of
velvet, which is fastened at one side and
hooks over to the other. The fronts
turn back to form revers and are caught
with two pearl buttons at the waist.
The revers az well as the turned down
collar are made of velvet. The bodice
further has triple garniture of circular
ruftles that come all the way around in
back and end in points in front. None
of these ruffies are hemmed or lined and
the space between each succeeding frill
is one inch. The bodice also has a cir
cular skirt that is very wide around the
bottom.
While the young woman's pose in the
final picture is of the lolling, semi-re-
Ginning sort, yet her dress Is not of the
neglige order which 30 often accom-
panies such posturing. 1t is very
The herald., 1893-11-26

case, you have your money back.
These diseases are many. They're
different in form, but they're like in
treatment. Rouse up the torpid
liver into healthful action, thor
oughly purify and enrich the blood,
and there's positive cure. The
"Discovery" does this, as nothing
else can. Dyspepsia, Indigestion,
Biliousness all Bronchial, Throat,
and Lung Affections; every form
of Scrofula, even Consumption { or
Lung-scrofula in its earlier stages !;
and the most stubborn Skin and
Scalp Diseases, are completely cured
BY it.
The herald., 1893-11-26

The little girls dress here has a zouave
guimpe made OF red and white striped
voile or pongee, and the jacket and
skirt are from the bright red cashmere.
The skirt Is lined with stiff muslin and
the deep hem is topped by a white silk
braid, which also comes on the jacket.
The guimpe hangs over the top of the
skirt, and is gathered to a neck band
and also at the waist with dYawstring
1t buttons invisibly in 'front.' and has
elastic and narrow ruff1e at the wrist.
The jacket is cut away in front, and
the two points are held together with
gold link buttons.
Velvet is extensively used as q garni-
ture this winter, and bida fair to outdo
everything else in the way OF trimming.
In the left hand dress of the next pic
ture the stuff used is terra Gotta and
blush green mixed suiting trimmed
with blush green velvet. The bodice
is plain in back, but the fronts are six
inches apart at the neck and Two inches
at the bottom, where they are gathered
and fall in blouse fashion over the vel,
vet belt. Each front is adorned with a
band of velvet two inches wide yorna-
mented with buttons spun with yellow
silk. In the center a narrow folded
stripe of lemon-colored sursh is visible
further ornamented with fancy herring
bone stitching in green silk. The re.
vers collar is made of double velvet and
ends in points, something like jacket
fronts, near the waist. The sleeves have
q large puff, tackled in the center and
fnishek with silk ball fringe showing
the colors of the material. The same
fringe falls over the velvet fold around
the bottom OF the bell skirt.
From the extreme plainness of the ini-
tiaPs costume to this complex affair is a
long stride; indeed, as far as this arti-
Gle is concerned, the last costume is the
climax of elaboration, for the remaining
toilets are all more simple. Take the
other hgure in the same picture; equal-
ly stylish. it ia quieter in every way and
it's fabric is black silk, trimmed with
pink. The skirt ia moderately wide
and is garnished around the bottom by
three ruffles, and two more come 80
inches higher. The bodice has a yoke
of pink silk covered with shirred black
illusion and trimmed with jet pa:semen-
The herald., 1893-11-26

urriers must be
heartlees men, for
again this winter
hey plan to be-
d ck the throats
oi fair and gentle
women with those
dreadful, W b ole
"beasties" which
we're so popular as
lippets last win.
ter. They are no
longer little, but
are 30 big now
that opo uop1ayo
how the women
iara mt than nn
The herald., 1893-11-26

ALWAYS OPEN = the offer mace
by the proprietors Of DIR. Sage's
Catarrh Remedy. It's a reward of
$500 cash for an incurable case of
Catarrh. The only question is-are
you willing to try it, if the makers
are willing to take the risk?
The herald., 1893-11-26

A wearer whose choice is for more
display of fur than can be put upon q
hat. is she OF the second illustration.
Her huge, handsome boa and the muf
are of Russian seal, soft, fleecy and
beautiful. Mrffs are promised which
shall closely follow 1880 styles as to be
The herald., 1893-11-26

They come ut all prices, too, from
cheap martin, which, alas. is really
pussy cat, to Hudson bay sable. These
last are deep furred and soft and COM
prise the whole animal, two little paws
dangling in front with the head and two
The herald., 1893-11-26

neglige, each following closely the rules
laid down for stylishdressing and max
ing the wearer appear at once home
like and yet precisely attired. The
plainest of the lot comes first, and its
sobriety is due to the fact that it is
offered as a model for the middle-sged
or older. Its material as sketched was
iron gray serge. though great variety
of materials would be equally tasteful.
Its plain skirt has two deep peats kept
in place by three rows OF stitching. The
bodice is trimmed with a soft broche
silk in shade matching the material.
The herald., 1893-11-26

New YoRK, November %, 1898.
The herald., 1893-11-26
FURs FOR FEMININITY.

The Proper Thing in Capss, Coats and
Muff..
The herald., 1893-11-26

in turn means that your sealskin will
hardly look we'll season through. There
fore, if you really want a seal, you'd
better have it made into a cape, because
cape gets less wear than does
The herald., 1893-11-26

0OeH nOb--WliA uuu
in the accompany
ing five pictures
and the descrip-
tion of the cos
tunes they por-
tray, some sugges-
tion for adaptation
to their own uses,
and practical aid
in carrying them
out. All the dress
es pictured are for
indoor wear, yet
none partske OF
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

blue lawns with their satin bows and lace
trimming, for these are emphatlcally for
the tea table, but the refreshing, sprigged
muslins, ranging in price from 10 to 40
cents a yard that any woman can make
and any laundress can wash.
/ hese are always ''good form'' in the
morning, no matter where you are. They
are not worn in the street now as formerly.
one reason being the impossibility of
keeping them fresh. ] saw the daintiest
kind Of one yesterday. 1t was of white
lawn with tiny pink sprig in it.
The rather full skirt had five bias
hounces scantily laid on each
one, finished at the bottom with
a narrow ruffie of embroidery, and at the
top with crushed fold OF the muslin.
The old-fashioned French snrplice waist
give full shoulder effect, and wide
crushed satin belt finished off this fresh
looking costume.
The wearer told me that she had six OF
these simple muslin gowns, that they
were only 12k cents yard, and she had
them made up at home.
There was morning. dress our mothers
wore that is not to be despised. 1t was
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16
The Possibilities of the ParasoIette.

The Possibilities of the Parasoiette.
The tiny disc of The carriage parasolette
is seen again, presenting its challenging
eye to the sun when the latter falls at the
fashionable angle to the Central Park
horizon.
Curiously enough mechanical ingenuity
has recently applied itself to this little
sunshade with results that would have
given another paragraph to Addison's
famous fan essay. i he handle is full OF
springs, and it's size suggesting q screen
from things nearer than the sun, 1T would
be easy to imagine its utility in a tete-a-
tete that turned out not to one's taste.
Thus, at the start you hold the disc
horizontal and under it include your
friend
Something unpleasant is said; you
press a nickel ball, according to direc
tions, draw back and partially screen
yourself.
Things grow more disagreeable; you
press the nickel again and are entirely
screened, and can make up bad face if
you like.
When past endurance another touch OF
the button shortens the stick, you avert
your face and fan yourself till your anger
cools.
Decidedly this invention has possibil-
tiles. A. B. G.
"When pain and anguish ring the brow
A ministering angel thou"-Bromo-
Settler. 13
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16


parenthetically good lining is half the
battle in the wear of skirt. | have a
dozen shirt waists eight of wash goods,
four lined ones of silk; some are made
stiff. starched and mannish; others are
soft, limp and feminine.
Then / have a short Randitz jacket
for outdoor wear, made of the hop sack
ing, heavily trimmed with Hercules braid
and lined with black and white silk at SO
cents yard: this [ slip over my shirt
waist, cambria or silk. When the day is
cool. or want q change, / put on heavy
corded vest of silk, double breasted like a
mans, and with this goes white or blue
chemisette and a four-in- hand tie.
And last, but most durable, have a
tight fitting waist of the satin, buttoned
under the arm and over the shoulder with
small gutta percha buttons, and black
satin cuffs and collar. So you see my
dress is not : Z pluribus unum, but null
tum in parvo.'''
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16
Dress of Fashionable Women at
the Summer Resorts.
TO WEAR BEFORE LUNCH.
Rules in Regard to Style That Obtain
This Season.
Varied and Dainty Observation-Disclosures
Feminine Combinations of Silk and
Lace, of Ribbon and BIull-Pos-
sibiIities of the ParasoIette.

Many shirt waists are good things to
provide yourself with this season. Fash
ion rules that the shirt waists, if worn
without jacket, belong distinctly to
those hours which precede the mid-day
meal, and that it makes little difference
of what material it IS fashioned, so that
1t is fresh. Calico, null or bingham,
they are all good form.
Skirts of all kinds are worn with these !;
but no one should make the mistake from
an artistic standpoint of wearing shirt
and skirt in color nearly alike. AS for
instance, white muslin shirt waist with
light tan skirt. The effect is bad.
MORNING DRESS IN HELdoTRoPEs.
On the other hand. shirt and skirt may
be exactly alike in color if they differ in
fabric. I saw q dashing morning costume
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16
add to the size, although IFS soft folds
have all the grace of fuller things, and it's


add to the size, although its soft folds
have all the grace of tuller things, and its
ends tucked snugly within the belt keep
it firmly In its place
The fichu that is finished with long
tab-like ends and that ties just below the
bust, and the fcnu that is longer still and
crosses at the belt to tie in knot at the
back, are best suited to the tall and the
slender. But if you study your own pro-
portions with care, you will find that one
OF the three is precisely what you need.
Ali of these models are made upon the
same general plan, the difference in
length and the method of wearing being
all that marks the difference when the
work is complete.
HOW TO MAKE A FIcHU.
& TO make any one of them, first measure
the length you will require. Then fold
and cut the cloth bias; if your fichu is
short you will find one length of wide
goods sufficient, but ii longer you must
join the stripes so that the piecing will
fall where the knot is to be made.
Cut bias edge of the required length
then at the centre of the strip measure
one-half yard in depth; draw curve
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

her summer as to what she shall wear on
the street. At a summer resort or in a
small town one can shop or drop in to see
ones friend in white pique or dainty
bingham. But in a large city strictest
fashion demands that plain, dark colors
be worn before luncheon on the street,
10 matter how warm the day may be.
Dark shirt waists, even without the
jacket, are good form on the street; very
light cambria or silk shirt waists must be
accompanied by Jacket.
China silk in gowns of solid color are
worn, but not when figured.
Wear no gown with much trimming on
the street. A woman wants to be dressed
as perfectly in the morning as in the
evening, and morning wear demands
simplicity of elegance. Give 500 Tor
your morning gown il you wish to, but
have 1T made perfectly plain. If any
trimming is used let it be braid.
Lace is not worn in the morning except
on a neglige robe. No iewelry is per-
missible except the engagement or we'd
ding ring, and the stick pins thatso many
women have adopted for their very use
fulness. Beyond this keep lock and
Key On your jewel casket until the lamps
are lighted.
1t IS by these little things we women
are judged, even by the arrangement OF
the hair. 1t should be worn in the
simplest way in the morning. A low
plated coil at the back of the head is
best; when faces require it on top the
head, let it be put there in the simplest
manner-not with gilt hair pins or gold
combs, but with dark tortoise shell
fastening.
BREAKFAST DRESS FOR NATIONS.
One useful breakfast dress that l should
include is much worn by matrons- the
matinee.
These dresses are made of soft cloths
that fall in easy folds -crepons, for in
stance. They are gathered loosely in at
the shoulders front and back and confined
at the waist by ribbons or a fancy belt.
The elbow sleeves hang full from the
shoulders, caught just below the elbow
with ribbon band.
These matinees have all the lace aboui
them the wearer wishes. However, loops
OF narro- satin ribbons are the better
style. These robes are graceful, airy and
comfortable, but they are only worn at
breakfast or in one's own room.
HARRY DELE HALLMARK.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

/ have seen some parasols most suitable
for these costumes of pure Indian pongee
in its original cream color, the handle be-
ing of carved burnt ivory. They make
the best sort of parasols to go with ging-
hams or white yachting suits, as they
stand the most severe wetting.
Other white gowns to be worn until
luncheon time and suitable for outdoor
pleasure are of white pique, with. bolero
jacket and full white dotted Swiss shirt
waists. Several suits OF pique have been
made up in tailor style, the broad seams
dou ble-stitched on the outside, but in the
opinion of some women they are the
warmest gown to be found and are ex-
tremely stiff.
INDIAN PoNGEEs.
Quite a number Of fashionables are get
ting Indian pongee for morning gowns.
The genuine goods cost from 81 to 81. so a
yard, but last for two generations. They
are being made up with narrow and wide
silk braids.
| saw dashing gown of the pongee
making for leader of the Southern set
here, who is going to White Sulphur, Va.
for the summer. It was made up with
dark green; the hat was wide rough
straw of green trimmed in wheat and
green leaves. She also viii have one OF
the pongee parasols to go with it.
MORNING WEAR FOR THE STREET.
1t depends on where a woman spends
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

yesterday of shirt waist and skirt made
for woman who is in second mourning,
and VIII spend her summer quietly at her
cottage at Bar Harbor. The skirt was of
darkest heliotrope diagonal cloth lined
with taffeta, the low r half being formed
OF bias truffie laid on without fitness.
On the edge of this ruffie were five rows
of narrow black silk braid, with three
rows at the head. The shirt waist of he
hotrope silk shot through with black was
designed in the newest way, having tn e
front pieces plain and straight, gathered
in at the shoulders, without lining, the
folded Quaker handkerchief wise across
the breast, passed around the waist to the
back then brought IN frontand tied in di-
rectoire bow, either in front or at the
side. The neck piece, which could be
left out if desired, leaving it v-shaped,
was of the plain chemisette order. The
bishop sleeves were quite full and con
fined at the waist with a twist of black
silk.
This morning gown Will serve double
purpose, as it IS not especially for the
house. having been designed in the line
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

the princess wrapper of white lawn with
its dainty ruffie of embroidery going
down the entire front, its ruffied turn
over collar relieved oftimes by an Elton
tie of silk, and its turned back cuffs at the
wrist also ruffied. This was the standard
morning dress in those days, and many
women cling to it yet for its ease and
GOODNESS. In those years women owned
dozens of white cambria underskirts and
corset covers.
These dear elderly women rely now on
the short half-dtting sacque of lawn,
wearing it TO breakfast and during the
earlier morning hours.
THE GINGHAAfS.
Bingham gowns are being worn extern
siyely this year as morning toilettes.
When walk or drive is in the forenoon
plan they are matched with a broad
brimmed sailor hat and a white parasoi.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-16

of English country house morning dress,
where women appear at breakfast in
suitable attire for any walking excursion
that may be planned. A Paul Jones hat
of dark neliotrope with rOSettes and quilts
OF black viii be worn with it for driving
or walking. If the salt air is trihe
strong, as it frequently is at Bar Harbor,
she will slip. a sleeveless bolero of the
cloth over her waist.
DARK TAILoR-MADE SKIRT GOES.
The governing rule is that one should
never confound afternoon wear with
morning. AS many degrees of difference
lie between them as between evening and
afternoon dress.
As / said. shirt waists are in good taste
and one cannot have too many of them,
aud they may be made as simply or as
deliberately as one wishes. But woman
is not to wear with them any old skirt
she may happen to have Many think
this an economical plan for wearing out
one S second best clothes, but only plain
dark cloth goes desirably with a shirt
waist.
/ don't mean that one is to throw away
her stock of skirts and get new ones Tor
morning wear, but only to use those that
are dark and tailor-made. A light one
turned and dyed often makes a satisfac-
\ tory one. p-sacking or sail doth are
most used for morning. 1t should be re-
membere6 IN making a skirt of the for
mer that it shrinks much and that due
allowance has to be made.
If you are going to be at home for the
morning, wear the shirt waists that have
rolled-over collars or broad sailors. Keep
Your high collars and stock-ties for
shopping or walking.
HOW ONE WE'LL DRESSED WOMAN PLANS.
! asked woman whom you can always
find well dressed at any time of the morn
ing how many s'before luncheon gowns
she had and how they were made. She
quickly replied: Zone dress, but many
accessories.
As looked surprised, she explained:
and we'll lined, therefore durable, and