The Caucasian. (Clinton, N.C.) 188?-1913, 1893-07-13

The first thing to be done in the making
of II dress is to cut and fit the waist. 1t is
a simple matter, but requires order enough
to GLOW the dressmaker to keep track of all
her belongings. When ready to begin work
let the young dressmaker take Il large piece
of stiff cartridge paper and start from the
right straight edge with her measurement
The person to be fitted stands with her
hands on her hips, and the tapeline is
passed around the body close under the
arms and over the bust and brought to the
back and the figures taken. The length OF
the hack Is taken, the front from the top of
the shoulder to the waist line and to the
throat. Then under the arms, and finally
ar end the waist and wherever the tape i
outlined on the diagram
When themeasurements are set down, the
'iressmaker takes her pencil and rule and
marks the first line four inches from the
edge Of the paper and brings it down in a
slanting line to one-half inch of the edge at
the waist line She then divides he bust line
in three, giving one-third its length to the
back and two-thirds to the front and side
front, making dots where tho measure
comes. The front, from throat to waist
line, is then measured and the neck shaped
out from the high line to the low one, which
gives it about the right form, which can be
cut out more if needed when tried on
The basque shape is the foundation of all
dres2making, but rs just now the waists are
unusually short it can he cut off at the
waist line or a little below it. When the
lady To be fitted is stout, the lines on the
diagram will show how to add to the width
without destroying the symmetry.
The darts form very important part in
the appearance of gowns, but there is no
set rule that can apply to them. The waist
is cat in the proportion marked, and if the
bust is slender the darts should not be
taken deep. If full or very fall, they can be
made deeper, accoriingto the need, and the
front may be slanted, if SO desired, so us to
throw added fullness where it is required
Nor can the length of the darts be decided
until the figure Of the lady is seen. Some
need high seams. some low ones but the
average is about five inches above the waist
line, tapering to II point, and about one inch
cut away IN the center This can only be
determined in trying on.
When all the pieces belonging TO waist
eight iii all, though they are cut in pairs
which are exactly alike-have been outlined
with dots according to the measures, they
eau be marked out with Il pencil and then
cut The lining should be then laid Fat
and the cartridge paper diagram laid over it
and the pattern marked on the lining, which
must bc cut on the straight. Cut, allowing
one full inch all around except in front for
the seams In front allow two inc..es for
turning in.
The dress material should be laid fat and
cut out exactly the same size as the lining.
The darts should not be cut out until the
lining has been tried on. though their posi-
tion3 can be marked.
The lining, If not silk, should h.. cam brio
or siles:a, o., Cor heavy dresses, Of drilling
The crosswise thread must be or: an even
line with the waist line
In eating both lining and outside one
should practice placing the diagram 50 Is
to cut to the best advantage, as this is very
important, end in cutting the different parts
it Is well to cut them by tW-os, the cloth be
ing properly folded, SO that You may not
gettwo pieces for the same side, whiCa often
hat .5ens with beginners.
" hen the waist is cut out, haste the lin
Ing together. beginning all seams at the
top, and then try it ON, with the seams on
the outside. Pin the fronts together, leav,
ing the edges 10 stand outward ard then
get the size right around the waist and
after that pin the darts and sus..l5 TO con
form absolutely with the figCre. Do not
try to mold the figure to the dress.
When sure that he waist IS, ST t. call it
nodded TO the body, press back the front
edges so that the pinhotes viii strain lit
tie, see that the arm sizes and heck are com
Portable and that it does not bind anywhere
or wrinkle, and then slip off the waist and
pull the seams very little, enough to show
just where the seams should be, now that
the lining il fitted. AS soon as thi3 is done
rip apart the lining and cut away all super
flaous edges. though if the measurements
are carefully taken there should he scarce
ly any hing to cut away. The lining is ther
ready to be LASTED to the material.
OLIVE HARPER.