The Penn's Grove record., 1893-07-28
DRESS OF THE NINETEENTH
CENTURY.
[Ardern Holt. !

White was much In vogue IN the
early days of the century, r with
coIored spencer. They were short
wasted, and the junction of skirt and
bodice was hidden by a fold of the ma
tefial much as 1t is wor now. Hussar
hats with high crowns, trimmed at the
side with a huge plume of feathers,
had a bordering of white frills framing
the face, being, in fact, a cap, which
was then called q "cornette;" but the
curious part about it was that the frIlls
were continued from the top of the
cap to the front Of the jacket which
opened V-shape, and SO disap-
peared.
In 1917 horizontal stripes were in
tfoduced on dresses, and we're carried
up to the knee, and there seemedto be
general rejoicing that silk was much
more to the fore. The large wells OF
white and black lace. which we're
brought down over the face only as
required, were beginning to be a neces-
sary accompaniment to every bonnet,
and happy people who now possess
them find they are almost large
enough to cover the front of the
dress.
In q few years the modes begin to
approach more nearly to our modern
notions. Wreathes are worn in the
evening, short dresses and longer
bodices, which, as a rule. took the
form of corselets, of some colored
satin with white sleeves, and with
trimmings to the upper portion of the
bodice. A good deal of attention was
bestowed on the trimmings at the edge
Of the skirt, which consisted mostly OF
cross-cut pieces of material, full, and
caught down at intervals with bows
which were surmounted by bouquets.
A dress OF white net over white satin
had o blue bodice, turquoise ornaments,
and corp flowers. The favorite colors
were pink, tea. pearl grey, sky blue,
jonquil, and vermiliion. Turbans were
made of metallic gauze, ornamented
with silver. when it rejoiced in the
name of the "Wayes of Pactalus"; in
gold it was called the Islands of Pac.
talus."
For driving, the outdoor garments
were in themselves a dress, seml.ft-
ting, made with pelerine capes, and
deliberately trimmed down the front.
The hats were then called a la Marie
Stuart, bnt looking at them, l should
consider them to be a bonnet worr
over a frilled cap, and exceedingly
wide in front. Those who criticised
fashion then had a good deal to say OF
the undue length of the waist, but, in
truth, we should consider them shori
now.
Egyptian taste prevailed In orna.
ments, and the hair was plated, to
which there were many objections.
The bun that we are trying to discard
had a prototype in those times. 1t wal
garlanded with roses for evening wear
and bordered with Jewels; but it was
also supplemented by o hearse-likt
plume of feathers in front, which would
crush any ordinary matron in our day.
Turbans were worn by elderly wo
men. These were expensive articles O.
dress, and were made of gossamer ma.
terials in bright colorings, forming the
foundation for a liberal display o.
jewels.
Another ~favorite form of trimming
was q couple of rows of bias bands o.
stuff drawn through the in%cisions il
the skirt, forming a series of pufings.
There was no room for pockets sny.
where, and everybody carried a reti
cule, made to accord with the dress.
Sometimes the gowns were open at the
neck, and were filed in by a double
crescent handkerchief OF gossamei
net, very softening to the appearance
of the neck, and a fashion which ole
ladies' continued for many years.
These bands were frequently caueht
down with roses, made OF white satin
as they are often now used for the bast
OF feathers in millinery. Above thi!
there were plumes arranged in semi
circular fashion.
A Court dress worn at this period hal
the petticoat of white satin. trimmed
with p~each-colored satin, matching the
tram, which is bordered at the base il
the same way. A diamond buckle
fasteps the waistband of the shori
bodice, and the peach satin train ii
evidently shorter than we wear them
now. But it is TO the headdress that ]
would call your attention. 1t consists
of dozeus of pIumes encircling the
head like an aureola, and shows whaI
We may come to, if we once begin "a
indulge ina snperabundauce of feath-
crs. The then c~broniclers of fashion
81 eak in admitting terms of the new