The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-04-09
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
RESEARCHES INTO THE REALM OF
THE ANTIQ UE.


Department Is the Rsge-The CID
Fashioned Lace Demonstrating
About ParasoIs and Gloves-sum-
mer Costumes-Lace Trimmings.
tCopyri0hLl
NEW York, April S.-The girls are get
ting more and more interested In the an
cient, the antique. They are getting out
ali of the old books they can flnd-books on
court robes. books on fashions, which their
grandmothers carefully laid away; books
on old-time etiquette-for II you wear a
quaint old gown you must bear yourself
accordingly it will never do to have a fir, de
steele walk with an 1880 flare. That would
be too incongruous. The walk that accam-
panies the crinohned skirt must be
slow and stately and rhythmical as if
one were keeping time with soft music
Then there must be no quick, sudden
action on the part of the wearer of the
gown; all movements must be deliberate,
graceful, carefully planned and perfectly
executed; the gown that enfolds the glrl
demands even change In the manner of
speech, as well as in her words; no bright,
ringing words, full Of all the true American
girls charm, may now spring forth from
her lips; she must speak gently, quietly.
calmly, sweetly graciously, and. above all,
deliberately, as If time were not flying fast,
but as If the hours would await her pleas
ure and hang upon her words. It is quite
possible that the new dress, or rather the
old one revived, may retard the progress of
woman half century or so. For il she be
true to the Quaintness which she has begun
to assume in all respects, aud adopts all she
characteristics OF the womanly woman, as
the term was understood in the good old
days, there will be no ballot, no platform,
no equal rights for this frail bit of human
lily. She viii have no voice in which to
claim them, for its pitch will have been
gently modulated to suit the gown.
Poor womGnl What a martyr sue makes
OF herself How bravely she sinks her
identity into that Of her gown. Unselish
isn't the word for it. She simply loses her
self ana finds her robe. But she feels con-
soled for all her heroism and suffering aud
seif~denlal when she wins the attention and
recalls the wandering fancy OF tbs indiffer-
emit man, VINO haze not been so attentive Of
late as might be. She knows that all this
quaintness Of apparel and speech will
amuse him, and she knows that if be is
amused and interested he will not flee. Aud
therefore a diligent search is continually
kept up tor all the oddities that found favor
in the eyes OF the danes OF old, and upon
the discovery of each there is great rejoic-
ing.
There is abundant field for this industry
in the line Of the fichus, lace NANTES, fac
crapey materials that fold sweetly and de-
mursly over the breast. One girl has q
silken cape OF a material that is striped
with crinkly and then with plain crepe.
The cape is palest pink. Another has q
small lace cape, just covering the shoulders,
and for heading, 20 lie on her neck, fold
upon fold Of pale blue chiffon. A brilliant
brunette has heavy blank lace mantle
long. and queer-looking, tied with brill
liant scarlet Another has a peculiar gar
ment made of crinkled stripes OF three pale
colors-yellow, blue and pink-which
hangs down straight and square across the
back, but is caught up in front in a knot at
the breast, and then edged WITH lace. Then
ever so many girls have the real old fichu,
the genuine thing, that comes straight over
the shoulder and folds simply in front; aud
these make asweet-faced dRmsel look doubly
demure and charming Lastly, there's
small cepe made Of fine strings of tiny rib
bon, in all the light colors, caught sop aud
bottom on q thin foundation and edged and
headed with lace ruffles.
The dishabille elegant comes next, ard
though this must be loose and flowing, it
must still be graceful, fashionable, WE'LL
fitting. very pretty one can be made of
some thin, silky or gauzy material, accord
ion plated from the neck down. At the
back the loose plaits are caught In by a belt,
but the belt disappears beneath the fullness
in front, which hangs loosely. Two EN-
broidered pieces pointing downward lie on
the chest. The sleeves are very pretty, made
of strips Of ribbon and accordion plating
with broad ribbon loops falling loosely over
the shoulders.
A 5-o'clock-tea jacket is very comforta-
BILE; it is made of warm ruby color, with an
embroidered vine running down each side
Of the open front. The front is a double
jabot Of embroidered chiffon, and the open
jacket fronts are caught together over it by
a ribbon bow. The jacket has an edge of
feather trimming all around, ana the revers
and rolling collar are always faced with the
curling feathers. This is very soft and
effective
Parasols, If the signs speak truly, will be
very small this coming season. Soma very
tiny ones are displayed now, lying in close
proximity, however, to reasonably large
ones; and it mny DO that cspricious women
will reject the tiny ono aad take the larger
one when the time actually comes for wear
ing the dainty himsy summer parasol-she
thing Of lace aad h0uuce and streaming
ribbon.
The glazed glove takes the place Of the
suede for out-ot-door wear more and more.
The suede is relegated to the evening al
AAO9' NAAtAACAy AAbLOuHA many VA Tvs AOA-
lowers refuse to discard it as yet The
suede has such a soft way of sinking into
ones hand and OF not occupying any space
that it recommends itself on that score
alone. A woman's hand always looks so
much smaller in suede, particularly black,
than in a shiny kid. The bright colors
have not abated any. The faring reds,
orange. greens, and yellows still walk forth,
matching the brilliant colors in hats and
gowns. The glazed kids have bright.
heavy stitchings, and heavy large buttons.
These, of course, are only for street wear
When it comes to the evening and dress
glove we are in altogether a different
sphere. There the glove ID pGler and more
subdued
/ have seen two new dainty summer cos
tunes that are particularly fresh, aud sug-
gestlve Of balmy air, and green surround
ings, and Towering plants, and lazy sum-
mer days.
One is for a very young girl, is made of
thin, crinkly material in pale yellow; has a
gathered yoke of pale yellow crepe; and,
beneath, a high bodice closely smoked. At
the top of the yoke, III front, are two small
velvet rosettes IN golden brown, from which
fall velvet sGreamerS even to tho very foot
of the gown. The full puffed sleeves,
which end in big ruff, stop at the elbow,
and long gloves wrinkle up to meet them.
The other gown is Of foulard glscs, mauve
and rose color, shot with cream rays. Three
bands of lace insertion, far apart, trim the
skirt. The bodice, for q wonder, goes q