The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-06-18

the owner lives somewhere else. inns 10 tne
18th OF June. The forwardness OF the season IN
this part OF England strikes stranger forcipy.
At tho gardens at the entrance to osborno inc
potato vines are now too large to stand upriRnt'
The potatoes are fully ripe. and have been IN
use for three weeks Cahbagcs are well headed.
and everything else equally advanced. In iact'
the garden looks as Now England garden
looks in August. The grounds at Osborne are
entirely private and nobody whatever Is al
lowed to go through them. mot oven the hisn-
est lord In tho land" 1t is Just little private
rlace OF her Majesty. which she keeps entirely
to herself We found man who Thought tho
papers OF England were too much against tne
North, and no had a suspicion that some oil the
"big folks had property in tho South
JUNE S.-The steamer took us to hyde ana
Portsmouth. There was fresh southwest
wind and smart sen on. Ryde has super
abundance OF flats in 'front.' and this Is lts
serious drawback. The only landing place Is
on q pier half n mile In length. spithead Ii
opposite. and Is an open rondstoad with strong
tides yet numerous vessels and boats ana
yachts lie at anchor with impunity. though
1t seems like anything but good
harbor. Yet it Is said no man-of-war mas
ever. except In q single instance. boon opligeu
to cut away her masts Mt Spithead 10 keep
from going ashore. Just below Ryde 10 a
neRulnuu on winch lle Durleu hioh' VI 1870
who went down with tho Royal George In
these waters In 17S2 Tho Anchorage OF this
Inflated ship was now occupied by two new
irorclads. the Black Prince and the Royal
Oak. tho latter n ram. Crossing S7ithead
from Ryde we passed by them into Ports
mouth on q trembling sea.
Portsmouth harbor has n narrow entrance.
but stretches inland four or i've miles. II ca.
pacious basin with five or six tathoms OF
water. whore tho finest ships In the British
nnvy lie moored. as well as those old Teme-
raires hallowed by historic associations.
Here is the Bellerophon housed In. which
took Napoleon to St Helena. and here In
primo order rs n receiving ship for appren-
tees Is tho Victory. on board OF which Nelson
fell. The spot is marked by q brass plnte on
her deck. So is the little room below with a
window no bigger than your hand where OF
his narrow cot he exclaimed. Kiss me.
Hardy" and expired. At one OF the yards on
shore is the new iron-plated rom. tho Re-
eistance. Here we examined tho lOo-ton
Armstrong guns and their long conicai shot
and movable breech pieces In the same
yard we saw both the inside and the out OF one
of the target ships. where the iron plating has
been tested with tho 49, pound shot Some OF
the plates had stood bravely. others hal been
cracked and smashed. There w.s, however,
behind tho target none OF the heavy hacking
which we found on the ship being plated in
the yard. This vessel is being built with u
turrot after our monitor pattern. OF whlch
Capt. Coles claims the invention.
We went into tho ropewalk. 1.O37 feet in
length, and saw the little red thread which is
woven into the contre OF all the cordage made
by the Government.
We returned TO Cowes against heavy wind
and soa. again passing Osborne. which does not
grow upon one by familiarity.
This celebrated watering place OF Brighton is
striking in its external aspects. Tho town lies
on the shore end Of great chalk cliffs. here CONF
ing boldly to tho sea. Tho ocean washes tho
entire front Of tho town. along which noble
esrlanadc runs. 100 or $50 feet above tho water
hankod by long rows OF palatial residences
many OF them belonging to the nobility. This
esplanade is the great boast OF Brighton. Tho
surf washes broad and level beach lying for
miles along its front
Tho season hero does not commence till Sep
tember or October. The town is large and the
shops are gay. There is marked restitution
OF trees. and the great naked downs in the rear
give the place bleak aspect
The high naked houses that rise before you a
you approach the city from Portsmouth arc so
many conspicuous signs OF II town to let. Here
is that celebrated pavilion Of George ~. a
shabby baublc. disgraced by his cxccsscs. Vic
tora turned her back on it when she came to
the throne. and built her present marine resi-
dcnce on the Isle Of Wight.
The country from Portsmouth to Brighton
along tho coast is inviting. We came along 4
fiat belt with the downs little way inland. The
land is good and SO low that we seldom see the
sen across the fiat. Within twenty minutes OF
Brighton we open upon less pleasing country.
- t1,. ,tu.t-
nosod shecpfor which this region is famous.
Though railroads are modern improve
ment. they are yet often in England fenced by
hedges as flourishing as those of an older dat,.
EVERYWHERE the hedge marks the subdivision
of the land. and in this respect the English
landscape differs from the continental. as alsoin
the greater abundance oftrccs. But the hedge.
however. is the most conspicuous feature.
Going from Brighton to London. We at once
leave the level coast country and plunge upon
the downs. going through several long tunnels
and nssns one large ti II
and vegetation. though the land Is often poor.
We flew over the country in an express t,aan,
hai getting bmpSs IS G mo 90 Of
getting birds-cye view of q country, as rail
reading. 1t is the next thing T. hailoonins
But to got really acquainted with II Is quite
another thing.
AT Dover there Is tidal harhor inside Of jet; t.
TIES W Nen the tllb Is out tHe
the Admiralty pier. which projects into tie
open roadstead, and is OF Titanic huild. IL
looks as II the Atlantic Ocean might roll OYER
it without disturbing its foundations, Ihe
bathing beach lies mainly above the pier on
the open coast. and is t.ankeL ali tho way ~
an espanade and marine residences Whicn
abound to u surprising extent. Inc Deaeh ID
pebt ly and steep. and sailuoats abound.
The high chalk cliffs hound the haronr IN n
semicircle. Directly above the esplanahe
| stands the ancient Dover Cast seSeIau OF
its towers and arches were made by the thu. no,
mans. The main castle, or keep, was puiit IN
100. In this castle 10 to DO found what Is re-
gRrded as the oldest mason work IN I.nsianu;
Here waved tho flag which Tor thousan1
years has oraved the battle and the prenZe. ~
was impossible not to he impressed WIN inc
literal truth of the poetic expression by tho
| association here presented.
Wa rode along the esplnnade. ana cohll oHt
| admire the ciffR and the beauty OF the place,
such a relief after the dreadful dead Level OF
the Netherlands.
| The American screw steamer kearsargs was
in tho oflng. and meeting two OF her officers
! on shore We accepted their inyitnti9n 70 20 on
| board We examined tho ll-inch lahlstens,
| con erred with Capt. Wnsow. urank 70 We
capture OF tho RappahnnnocE. when me
hrihrsIarge was then watchirhhr , pAinhams had
| not then rpeared. We EXPRESSED our rnriiest
| hnt t,f - huf q