The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

NEW YORK EXCLUSIVES LOOK ASKANCE
AT THE STYLE.
A Fifth avenue dressmaker, whose
name cannot be given for obvious rea-
sons, sighed little when asked her
opinion of the crinoline, and said:
Really, favor it because it gives me
an opportunity to do so much for slen-
der women. And | shall use it with them
whenever | have occasion. With the
crinoline can gown a thin woman until
she is grace itself.
but | fear that shall have difficulty
In persuading my fashionable customers
to adopt anything radically different from
what they have been wearing. They are
women of great wealth and of such high
social standing that they are observed
everywhere they go and in everything
they do. To rush suddenly into the ex-
treme OF any style would expose them to
rldicule, and ridicule is what fashion
able woman breads more than anything
else. Moreover, many of my patrons
have fads of their own.
''There is Mrs. Paran Stevens for ex-
ample. She is in mourning now, and out
OF society. But she buys q great many
house gowns. Her idea of a fine dress is
always an empire role. 1t must be cut
decollete and be somewhat clinging in the
skirt with snug fitting waist. Mrs.
Stevens would never pad her shoulders
nor don the hoop skirt. If l were to sug-
gest it to her she would stare at me in dis
gust. Then she would exclaim:
How unspeakably vulgar" and would
sweep out of my shop.
1.-THE lamented Mrs. Whitney was
another who liked to preserve the out
line of her figure and who would never
even permit me to flounce the inside of
her dress skirts for the full effects which
have undoubtedly been sought this fall.
''Debutantes and the younger of the
society matrons may gaily wear the
crinoilne, first as a novelty, and then be-
cause they have become the fashion. But
l do not predict that the women who are
the backbone of society-the August Bel
monts, the Cornelius Vanderbilts, the
elder Mrs. Astor and the others who head
the subscription list at the Charity and
the Patriarch's balls-wiH follow suit. -
The dressmaker who fashioned Lang
try's gowns when the Lilly took New
! York by storm and who has made many
dresses for the Baroness Blanc agrees with
many of her sister artists in predicting a
return to the full hoop-skirt.
81 do not believe.' said she, 'that
fashionable women, and especially pro-
tessional women .wno make their living
by public favor, can afford to be out Of
style. They must be in it. And in the
extreme of it. l always regard it good
when a new style comes in.''
WHAT THE REMoDELER SAYS.
An artistic young woman who makes So
day going around to the houses of the
semi fashionabies remodeling gowns,
says:
s'It is really pathetic to see how the
crinoline wave has struck terror to the
hearts of those who want their last
springs gowns made over into this
springs styles.
" Dear Miss Modesto they say to me,
scan you not devise some way OF piecing
or patching out my dresses? Last spring
l bought as little goods as possible, and
had my skirts made SO that | could hardly
sit down in them. This season they must
be full enough for hoop-skirts. Can you
not cut off the train and make another
breadth out of it?'
e'And the worst feature about the new
crinoline gowns is that the entire skirt
must be of the same material and of the
same color throughout. There is no such
thing as putting in front breadth of
something else. 1t is really a difficult sit
uation for the dressmaker who makes her
living remodeling gowns,
s. what do | suggest in such cases"
81 usually suggest matching the goods
as nearly as possible. Then | veil the
! doubtful breadth of the entire skirt with
eff it is a street dress, 1 go to the
trouble of piecIng all the breadths until l
have enough for full skirt. The upper
part OF the breadths are sham, but the
lower parts are perfect. then construct
long coat with flowing tails or some
thing resembling the mantilla, only
make it OF velvet and put two
little collars on the shoulders, l can
assure you | shall earn my five
dollars a day in worry alone if the
crinolines come in suddenly. And my
customers are the very ones who must
| bow Immediately to fashions dictates,
for they are not wealthy enough to ignore
the styles for the styles of their own, and
they are too well placed in society to be q
season behind the times
OPINION OF THE HIGH PRIEsTEss OF
DELSARTE.
Mrs. Henrietta Russell, the Delsartean
! who, although not u mOdiSte, had the
pleasure OF designing gowns and color
Combinations for Mrs. Whitney at New
port two years ago, and who suggested a
| trousseau for the beautiful Sallie Har-
gous Elliott, is distinctly opposed to the
crinoline, because it destroys the oppor-
tunity which might be had for observing
the graceful motions of the body.
"HoWever, crinoline, y says Mrs. Rus
sell, sis no more than tight waist, nor
a linen collar nor bonnet strings They
are all unbecoming and absurd. And
told Mrs, Potter Palmer so in a lecture at
her house the other day.
IN BIG NEW YORK STORE.
An old modiste, who has long had gen
eral charge of the dressmaking designs in
a very big New York store, was OUT
spoken in her dislike of the crinolines
and very pessimistic, too.
ssBut they will come in, know, - she
exclaimed bitterly. 'They will come in
lust because do not want them to, and
because am afraid l cannot please my
customers with such outlandish effects.
Every thing has gone against me this
wear, and | am sure this will.
81 was afraid of cholera, and behold!
it came to our shores. 1 did not want the
Democratic party in power and now it is
upon us. And am afraid the crinoline
will come, too. Oh, dearl What disas-
trous year!'
A SURE SIGN.
On one of the cross town streets near
the park there is dealer who handles
only second hand gowns. He buys OF
society women who do not care to wear
the same dress twice, and he sells to peo-
pie who contemplate spending the season
out of town, or who are willing to remake
the dresses.
1.-the crinoline fashion would be ter
rible blow to my profits this season" de-
cIared he, 'sfor l would be left with fully
500 tie backs on my hands. And fear il
is coming in, for people are sending fol
me every day to come and buy their ward
robes for they are going to adopt the new
STYLE
CRINoLINE ON THE STAGE.
A modiste who makes dresses for ac-
tresses and who charges such big prices
that her poor victims declare that Worth
and Felix are ''not in it'' at all, as COM
pared to her, views the incoming OF the
crinoline with much joy.
SIT will give one chance to DO novel
ties said she, sand that is what ac-
tresses want When l made the drass