Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1893-12-30

were three rows or Alaska sable around
it, and standing upward from each of
the three rows were fiat bands of white
valenciennes lace about an inch wide.
The serene expression of the wearer
was by no means justified as the COM
bination was most tasteless. and though
the materials were fine, the general effect
was cheap and glaring. If any white
lace is to be used with fur on any out
side garment, it should be duchess or
ventian point. On the daintiest bonnets
of the season there is a bit of point either
stretched ont with fine wire and made
into butterfly wings, or it is stretchn1
on the under side of the brim.
The newest fancy in all the fiat laces
is ohave them stained either tea or cof-
fee color, or oyster, which is kind of
grayish white. These would naturally
be the colors of laces that had been in a
family for generations, and of course
the older piece Of lace is the handsomer
and more valuable it is to the wearer.
There is, however, very little to be said
in favor of lace and fur as a joint garri-
ture for anything. Jet and the beautiful
where fur is not used, and fur trimming
ought to be sufficient itself, though on a
/ velvet, silk or very fine cloth, silk EN-
broidery picked out with jet beads makes
an elegant and suitable beading for bands
of fur.
saw a long cloak today of heavy,
black faille and black velvet. The cloak
was of faille and fitted like a newman
ket. All down the center of the back
and on the front to the waist line was a
mass of embroidery, thickly studded
with beads of very fine cut jet. There
4 were undersleeves of faille, with velvet
cuffs, richly beaded, and long, black
velvet juiye sleeves, lined with silk, Dor
dered with sable and embroidered in
silk and jet. The high color was also
stiff with beaded embroidery. This was
altogether superb wrap, and it would
have been cheapened BY having white
lace sewn upon it.
! Flat lace insertion makes a very pretty
and tasteful trimming on home dresses
where the contrasting color shows up
the delicate pattern. and perhaps there
| has been no fancy of late years that was
SO dainty. Many silks and woolens have
several of these rows of insertion, and
all are pretty. A novel and effective
/ trimming is often made by ladies in this
way: They sew two lines of narrow,
colored serpentine braid on their gowns,
and between these work in Bulgarian
/ stitch a series of conventional design in
one or more bright colors. This style of
! crocheting is very effective on house
/ dresses, and the pattern can be worked
I in woods or with silks. In some cases
flat braid is sewn along instead of EN-
/ bordering the center, and on this is set
at intervals imitation jewels-rubies,
gainets, amethysts, turquoiscs or emer-
alds-according to the color of the gown
There was a very pretty tea gown of
/ pale blue and black ringed challie, which
was tastefully trimmed in this style:
/ The gown opened down the front over
full waist and panel of blue satin duch-
esse. There was a double ruffied collar
/ of the challie, and the sleeves were
crushed gigots. All around the challie
portions was line of trimmings made of
serpentine braid and Bulgarian stitch in
red and blue. Another row went around
the bottom of the skirt, and the two We're
placed diagpnally upon the sleeves, and
enc row was placed upon each ruffie at
/ the shoulders Altogether this made an
exceedingly handsome tea gown or a
gown for home wear at almost any tine.
One of the novelties is to have l.
sewed over with colored beads outlin
the pattern. Often where there is a
/ floral pattern the beads are applied to
( follow nature as closely as the case will
/ allow. Black and white lace are thus
used. The white laces thus beaded are
used for berthas to evening dresses and
as festooned flounces. The black lace is
set ON the solid colored and black silks
for handsome evening or dinner gowns
for married ladies.
/ One very pretty fancy was working
/ violet colored and pearl beads over light
pattern in white Spanish lace. Pink and
I green in the light wax or satin" beads also
worked out a delicate vine with rosebuds.
Another handsome design was three rows
of wax pearl beads sewn closely on q SER
pentine braid an inch wide, and on the
edges of this there was fringe of cut
crystal beads Three rows of this were
set on the skirt of white armure silk
for wedding dress, and the same was
lavishly used on the bertha. There are
ruffies of braid woven that way, and
these are often almost entirely covered
I with beads, black or other color, and
have fringes of the same. This makes it
( easy to trim garment.
The variety and elegance of the new
paohair and silk braids as trimming fof
almost all kinds of garments make it
far easier to have q handsome garment
at the least expenditure Of time or
strength than ever before. saw one la
dylike costume of light brown vicuna
with three graduated rows of black her
cules braid. There was q stylish jacket
of dark chocolate brown beaver cloth,
/ with several rows of stitching around the
edge and 10 large horn buttons. The
collar was of red brown velvet, with a
I V shaped vest and collar showing slight
/ ly and made of channels skin. The bon
net was of brown velvet, with few am
Der beads and tan fancy mounted feath-
er. The gloves were tan. The eye tray
eled from bonnet to the foot pf the dress
In a pleased review Of the component
parts of this refined and quiet costume.
/ have noticed this past week that as
trakhan is quite largely employed as in
sets in skirts of coats and gowns in
wedge shaped pieces. This is really
beautiful fur, and it lends itself better
than any other fur to this style of trim
ming. have seen many garments, par
ticularly of matte and nlatelassee goods,
where the vest front, cuffs and collar
cites were made of estrakhan. But it
should in any such case always be the
MORE fur, as it is called, such as is OBJ
tanned from the grown animal Il is
said that that which is closely cgrled is
obtained by inclosing the little animal
in bag, leaving only its feet and head
out This makes the hair curl into tiny
rings. fancy it would make any body's
hair curl TO be kept sewn up in bag.
Cherry red Is one OF the favorite hues
this winter, and it is exceptionally be-
coming to almost every woman, and it
is particularly SO to women in their for