davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
leave to the young woman not Gin tn

leave to the young woman not ''in the
SWIM but whatever she attempts you
may depend upon 1t will be in the best of
form.
Indispensable to her piazza plans is the
work basket. 1t is giddy little affair all
ruffies and frills, founces and frivols.
Some of the most aesthetic maidens are
actually going in for basket that VIII
match each morning robe. This is effec-
tive. A tangle of piuky silks, the sheen
and Skinner of rosy satin Innings, q rift
of white muslin, ten delicately manicured
fingers, the fash Of jewels, tinted
gown, a low dropping hat of chip gar
landed with pink-hearted posies-this is
the picture that is being arranged to daz-
zle bachelor eyes and catch the straying
bachelor heart.
She holds that men are credulous Great
ures. She thinks that she can actually
impress them by all this pretty affecta-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

curve of TIE under-arm seam but two
inches wioer for the entire length.
taking care to let the point G be exactly
parallel with the waist line.
From c to I cut a slightly curved line,
and from to I as the dotted lines show.
HOW TO SEW 1T.
Sbirr the front shoulder &C with four
rows of shirring to the exactlength of the
back shoulder. Then Join both the shout
der and uuder-arm seams. Stitch a cas-
ing across the back at the waist line. and
through it run two ribbons or tape, fast
ening one at each end and letting them
pass each other. Hem the exposed edges
Of the back and also sew neatly the
curved edges of the front.
To CUT THE COLLAR.
If the cloth is thirty inches wide or
more, cut the collar without a seam,
using the fold for the center of the back
but if narrow cut in two pieces and join
the selvedge edges. The dotted line within
the straight of the collar indicates the
seam for narrow goods. and is one inch
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

basque pattern and allowing a wide
under-arm seam as the diagram shows.
Be grite sure that the material extends
full inches below the waist line which
point you should mark with a thread or
with a pencil line.
For the front in which all the pe~1-
liarity lies, mark off first a strip 2
inches long and q wide; then follow
carefully every detail.
Lay the front OF your basque pattern on
the upper straight edge of the cloth SO that
The point a shall fall just fourteen inches
from the point, ana so that the point B
shall come one and one-half inches below
the horizontal line 1-2. Then your pat
tern will be lying upon the cloth as the
diagram indicates, and if you follow all
the directions you need have no fear as to
the result.
Mark the point 3X inches below the
point /, and cut on the line &C for the
shoulder of the front.
Then follow the curve of the arm-hole
and cut two inches beyond to the
point d, and cut from d to on the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

with only yoke back and no sleeves.
For this choose thin silk if you can, as its
folds are softer and it clings more than
any other goods; but if you are about to
travel and wish to practice economy,
gloria will serve your purpose we'll. This
material, which is new in at least its best
forms, is a mixture of silk and wool and
will endure hard usage, as no silk can be
trusted to do. For 44-inch width it costs
Fl. 10 yard, or whereabouts.
Cut and fit yoke back. Then, as al
ready directed, for the bodice lay the
front of your pattern upon the cloth and
cut the shoulder precisely as you would
do for the entire waist But in place of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
MATERIALS FOR DEEP MOURNING

Henrietta cloth is considered the proper
material for deep mourning. Imperial
serge is sometimes used, but the authori-
ties declare in favor of the former except
for summer wear, when it may be re-
placed by grenadine, which must be plain,
no stripe nor dot being admissible. Bonn
bazine is also allowed to pass without
comment. Tamise, while declared old
fashioned, will always hold its own by
those who have experienced the comfort
and serviceableness of the material. 1t is
to black goods what chaliies are to COL
ored dress stuffs.
A tendency to Tighten mourning in all
directions is noticeable. The princess of
Wales is said to have refused to wear
Grape for her son even in the first weeks
of court mourning, and to this refusal we
undoubtedly owe the collapse of the effort
to revive the general use of Grape. The
manager of the mourning department in
the leading house in New York states
that Grape other than for widows is I'M
popular. "We do not sell one Grape veil
where we used to sell fifty. 1t is used SO
little for trimming garments. such as
NANTES, that we keep none in stock and
make very few to ORDER
Even widows, after six months, dis
card Grape for house gowns; and it is no
longer incumbent upon them to wear the
long veil over Inc iacS dlteI the uTSb lew
weeks, mask veil being substituted for
it and the long veil being fastened at the
back.
WIDOWS COSTUME
A gown made for well-know New
York lady, recent widow, shows mod
erately full skirt with q Grape flounce
reaching to the knee, laid on plainly,
more like bias fold than flounce. The
bodice is cut tight-fitting, with waist
coat front of Grape. The upper part OF
the full gigot sleeve is of Grape. Other
costumes have Grape cuffs reaching hall
way to the elbow.
Those who wear the Widows cap, which
is not now obligatory and is often dis
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

measure inches. Eight inches from a
draw the line Oh, which should meas
ure 10 inches. and II inches from draw
the line TX, which should measure AZ
inches. Then measure al nine inches
and draw the line 1-2 two and three
quarter inches long. Measure as twelve
inches, and draw the line Sd FIVE inches
long; measure as fifteen inches, and
draw the line So nine inches long. When
you have ali these points the curve must
cut correctly and your collar will be just
the right shape.
Make the collar double, and if it be silk
use an interlining OF crinoline, then seam
it to the neck of the blouse from the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

sition. If this work turns out crude a
ribbon band may be drawn over these
joining edges and fastened at each corner
with the loops of ribbon. Arrange across
the inside OF the cover band of ribbon
catching it down in the centre SO that a
pers.
IL you prefer little work bag which
may be swung from the arm you have
merely to take square or oblong piece of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

biggest, the silkiest and most brilliant
hued handkerchief that could be pur-
chased. An exact copy of the company
turban worn by ebony skinned mammies
of ante bellum days Will flourish as a
work bag not only in the best society
gathered at Virginia Springs but at the
SWEETEST northern resorts. This effective
color scheme is equally charming, wheth
er swinging by its knotted corners from
dainty finger tips, or resting in the lap of
a white.robed divinity
DOROTHY MADDOX.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

silk and having stitched up the sides turn
down at the top the width of the hem
preferred. Two rows of stitching in this
hem wide enough to allow for running
ribbon, and you have the little pouf in
trim Tor lacking about the edges of the
berry basket.
Prettier than all others, to my way of
thinking, is the gayest of gay bandannas.
1t was quite lad last season with the
southern belle to carry her work in the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
THE SERPENTINE BODICE
Designed for the Women and The Short,
Plump Girls.
The Peazza Work misunderstanding Dress
and Mourning Etiquette-A Marked
Tendency to Tighten Mourning,
But Much Is Lett to
Personal Taste.
correspondeuce of THE HERALD.

Correspondence of THE HERALD.
NEW YORK, June 29.-The very latest
within OF fashion, the very newest form
of bodice is designed especially for the
women and the short, plump girls.
Those unfortunates who for so long
have Deen neglected and who have raised
20 justified a wall over the round
waists and the short French pointed
waists and the hundred other devices
suited only to slender women, have
been remembered at last. Their needs
have been considered. A really charming
ing bodice which requires no belt nor rib
bon, and which takes graz " clinging
folds has been designed md ~hile the
tall girls may year it they WI and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

in good form. Before gliding, with a
sharp knife cut about the sides, at equal
distances apart, perpendicular Sits, in
and out of which is run a ribbon an inch
in width. Line with soft silk, place a
tiny pocket or pockets within, perch on
the four corners loops of ribbon and the
basket is ready for its cover. This
is easily made by cutting a square
of cardboard, tutting it slightly on The
inner cover, adding sprinkle of sachet
powder and covering outside and in with
the same material used as lining to the
basket. By binding the back edges of the
basket and the cover with narrow ribbon,
the cover can be neatly stitched into po-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
MOURNING STATIONERY
A Sure Cure FOR Piles.

itching piles are known by moisture
like perspiration, causing intense itch
ing when warm. This form, as well as
blind, bleeding or protruding, yield at
once to DR.. Bosanko's Pile remedy,
which acts directly on parts affected, alb
serbs tumors, allays itching and effects a
permanent cure. 90 cents. Druggists or
mail Circulars free. Or. Bosanko,
Philadelphia, Pa. Sold by Godbe Pitts
Drug Co. Corner Main and First South. .
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
The Latest Modes.

from the edge. In cutting without a
seam bear this in mind and remember
that the collar must be just SO much
shorter than when cut with seam.
From the point a to the point mark q
line Az inches long, and from to line
16h inches long. Then from to and
from c to d cut in the curves indicated,
first marking each line at the correct
point and getting its exact length.
Six and one half inches from the
point draw the line Ell, which should
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
A sECoND-MoURNING COSTUME.

A beautiful gown worn by lady who
has just laid aside deep mourning is of
silk crepon, the material having very
deep lines, so that it gives the effect OF
Grape. There are three folds of dull,
but not entirely plain, silk about the
rather fiaring skirt. A waist of the silk
is cut with short Elton jacket over which
is SHRED rich lace, the net being drawn
closely about the neck and the figured
lace fully SIX inches deep falling over the
shoulders and across the back, giving the
effect of light wrap. The lower part of
the sleeve is OF silk.
The hat worn with this costume is Of
lace straw, with folds Of silk and three
small ostrich tips.
A neat summer wrap for those in Sec
ond mourning is a double cape of net
with rather coarse mesh, trimmed with
rows of dull black ribbon.
The first deviation, as has been said, is
from black to black and white, but the
groundwork should be black and the
white figures small and inconspicuous,
such as dots or fine flowers widely scat
tered. From this the change is made to
dark gray, then lighter grays, and last of
all VARYING shades of purple. Hellotrope
is hardly considered mourning.
For young girls in second mourning
gray 10 trimmed with folds of black, and
black hats with black ribbon and few
loops OF gray flowers, such as thisties,
are considered in excellent taste.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

centre of the back to its extreme point.
Roll over on line such as indicated by
the row of double DOTS
Make either ordinary shirt sleeves with
cuffs or fitted lining make deep full puffs
with plain cuffs below. For wash goods
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

cutting the armhole, draw line from the
shoulder at to the point and cut it.
Shirr the shoulders and seam them to
the yoke back. Hem all the edges and
finish the neck with a full frill in place OF
the rolling collar, which under a jacket
does not give good effect.
OLIVIA BELL.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
PIAZZA BAGS.
Unique Contrivances in Which the SUM
mer Belle Will Tuck Away Her
Bits of NeedlevOrlx

To be sure all this fuss and preparation
for coaxing along the summer hours with
dainty needle and a siIken thread is just
one more girlish vile for being graceful.
In truth, the seaside, lakeshore and
mountain belle will accomplish but little
in the way of real work; this she will
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
too heavy, costume with jacket or cape
effect is worn
HOUSE GOWNS.

For house gowns during the hot weather
white crepon, with belt and trimmings of
Armure silk, is considered deep mourn
ing, and linen lawn with iustreless black
ribbons is allowable for demi- toilet.
1t should be understood that pure white
must be used, as black figures on white
ground constitute second mourning
likewise white upon black ground, which
is the first deviation from black toward
cnlnrc
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
fashions IN MouRNING.

Mourning Dress and Mourning Etiquette
The New York Code.
New YORK, June 2y.-There is far
greater range of fashion in mourning
with us than in European countries; and
many things are here left to personal
taste and judgment We do not doff the
symbols of woe per calendar, and The du-
ration OF mourning is regulated almost
solely by one's feelings in regard to The
matter, but is invariably longer than in
England.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02

carded by young widows as too conspicu--
tous, usually wear turnover collar and
cuffs of fine white oEgandie, hemstltcheo;
but these are optional.
The veil should be from three and 8
half to four and half yards long, &C
cording to the height and figure OF the
wearer. The width of the hem is mat
ter of taste. Some have the lower one
nine inches wide and the upper one Jour
inches, while others reverse this order,
and both are considered correct.
The gloves should be ofsuede and house
shoes and slippers OF the same material.
All deep mourning should be charac-
terized by simplicity and the absence OF
ornament OF all kinds, even of trimmings.
The only silk allowable is the lusJreless,
soft black Armure being employed by the
best modistes. Jet long since disap-
peared, and the dull Jet passementerie
which superseded it is not used this sea-
son. Lace is likewise inadmissible, but
lisse and chiffon are used for young girls.
YOUNG PEOPLES MOURNING.
1t is unusual for children under II to
be robed in black, but when mourning is
worn by them it should not be SO heavy
as that of their elders, Grape not being
used except in narrow folds or loops on
the hats.
The young daughters of New York
millionaire who died few weeks ago
under exceptionally sad circumstances
have gowns of grenadine. One is trim
med with puffs of the material at the
knee and at the bottom of the skirt, The
bodice of this costume has bretelles OF
lisse, rather full over the shoulder and
reaching nearly to the waist line, back
and front.
An older daughter wears an Elton jacket
of Grape. The skirt OF her gown has
Grape pipings along the gored seam and
is finished with Grape rosettes at the
waist.
The veil worn by young ladies in deep
mourning may be of crepe or nuns veil
ing, preferably the latter. It should not
reach below the waist.
MOURNING WRAPS.
The wraps used for deep mourning may
be of Armure silk, plain or trimmed with
Grape, or of broadcloth untrimmed. Drar
d'ete or yicuna cloth are not considered
mourning materials. Lace or even net
cannot be used until the deepest mourn
IL, \ Ill 1<,tt
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-07-02
MOURNING HANDKERca1EFs.

There is a more definite code concern
aug handkerchiefs than any other attri-
butte of mourning. The first used have a
black hem from one-half an inch to an
inch and half wide. Even the half inch
may be used by widow while wearing
Grape.
The first change is to have the hem
white and black border inside. This
may be from one-eighth of an inch to an
inch and a half in width. These are only
for second mourning, and toward the ex-
piration Of this term fancy handkerchiefs
with black embroidery may be thrust into
the belt or displayed as best suits the
owner.
But there is still another degree before
the ordinary white handkerchief can be
used. This is black embroidery-tha is,
large or small squares in the corners OF
the handkerchief. AS the handkerchief
is all white, only the initiated under
stand the subtle distinction OF vanishing
grief.
PARASOLS AND FANS.
In parasoIs and fans the only garniture
considered in good taste for deep mourn
ing is lisse or chiffon, never lace. Black
handles are of course de riguer. Um-
brella handles may be of any dark wood,
but must be devoid of ornament.
MOURNING STATIONERY.
Mourning stationery shows greater
changes than dress. The deep, black
edged paper and cards are no longer il
vogue.
A lady who sets many fashions in New
York has recently ordered her monogram
stamped in black on plain white paper.
Many use stationery with narrow border
but do away with the crest and mono
gram while in mourning. If the addres:
be used it is OF course stamped in black,
| Black sealing wax is fashionable, and thi:
has banished cres1 and monogram iron
the envelope.
During second mourning gray papel
has become popular, and gray sealing
wax matching the envelope takes th'
place of black. When heliotrope il
reached in dress, heliotrope wax may b.
employed on envelopes.
MARGARET COMPTON.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-03-18
IT mAY BE PUBLISHED.
The Report of the Southwestern Com
mittee Now Ready.

The Report of the Southwestern Com
mittee Now Ready.
1t is learned that the late date, April II,
set for the meeting OF the Southwestern
stockholders at Macon had to be put at that
time as there is clause In their bylaws re-
quiring thirty days notice TO be given when
such meetings are called.
Steps have been taken. however, which
will ailay any disappointment any of the
stockholders may have had in regard to the
date of the meeting, and such steps as may
indicate 20 them what course to pursue in
regard to the reorganization plan OF the
Central system. Its probable that the res
port OF the committee will be pub.
lished within few days, which will enable
stockholders to determine how to proceed,
as it is highly probable that the report of
the committee sent on TO New York TO ex-
anime into the reorganization plan will meet
with the approval Of the Macon meeting.
In referring 20 this matter Receiver Conner
said yesterday:
~ have a telegram from Capt. Raoul,
chairman of the committee that was APP
pointed at the stockholders meeting of the
Southwestern Railroad Company in Feb
ruery, stating that the committee had
agreed upon a report, that it had been
signed by him and Mr.. Gresham, and had
been sent TO Mr.. Miller for his signature, he
having previously agreed to the report, and
that he, Col. RAoul, and Mr.. Gresham thought
the report should be put in the hands of the
president. DIR. Baxter, for immediate publi-
cation for the information OF the stock
holders.
az infer from this, and also from a tele-
gram from DR.. Baxter. that the report will
be published soon.n
II this report is published. as 1t seems it
will be, IL will probably have the same eff
fecs as il the meeting of the Southwestern
stockholders had been held and the matter
settled, for q competent committee was
chosen to do the work, and it is TO be sup
posed that such report as they draw up
will be adopted with very few modihca-
tlons.
As hos been before stated in the MORNING
News, there is every reason to believe that
the report OF the committee is
entirely favorable to the re-
organization plan. Such was the
statement of a gentleman from New
YORK few days ago, who had been in con-
ference with the committee, and there is no
reason to believe from all that can be
learned that the results of the committees
report are in any way derogatory to the
plan.
Pending the investigation by this COM
mittee the receipts of Southwestern stock
and securities at the Southern Bank have
| been somewhat small. II the report is a
favorable one the securities will probably
come in promptly and be ready to go into
the reorganization when the time arrives
without waiting formal action by tbs
meeting at Macon.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-03-18
LOCAL PERSONAA.

B. A. Price of Jacksonville is at the De
Soto.
Julius Klotz of Fernandina is at the De
Soto.
J. s. Neeson of Mount Vernon is a. the
Pulaski.
E. Hausmann of Jacksonville is at the
Pulaski.
Charles C. Dunn of Jacksonville is at the
De Soto.
Maj. D. c. Bacon of Atlanta is registered
at the De Soto.
Capt o. T. keenan, OF Macon is stopping
at the De Soto.
F. W. Copeland of Lafayette, Co., i
stopping at the Pulaski.
John L. Hsrdeman. Esq, of Macon is
stopping at the De Soto.
10. L. wilkins of Burroughs, Gs. , is
registered at the Pulaski.
Capt James Armstrong of Charleston is
registered at the De Soto.
Capt John Milledge and wife. OF Atlanta,
are stopping at the De Soto.
J. A. Perdue Of Atlanta was visitor to
the cotton exchange yesterday.
E. 81. Garrison, the famous jockey from
New York city, is stopping at the De Soto.
II. H. Hull of Hull & Lathrop was
elected a member Of the board Of trade yes
NSAd1gs
Lieut.. D. F. Kelley Of the United States
revenue cutter Boutwell, is registered at the
Pulaski.
Eber Blodgett of the Tide Water Oil Com
pany was elected member of the board OF
trade yesterday.
President H. B. Hyde Of the Equitable
Life Assurance Company was visitor on
the floor of the cotton exchange yesterday.
DR.. J. C. Perry who has been in charge
of the marine hospital here since DIR.
Whites removal to Hamburg, leaves to-
day for Washington TO stand preliminary
examination for promotion. he has been
ordered 20 Lyme Haven, Mass, where he
goes to take charge OF the marine hospital
there, after standing his examination at
Headquarters. DR.. J. H. Oakley from
Evansville, Ind, has been temporarily
placed IN charge of the marine hospital at
this point and will take charge tomorrow.