New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-09-24
WHAT MEN SHOULD WEAR.
NEW THINGS TO BE SEEN IN SUITS, SCARFS
AND HEiDGEAR
CONSENSUS OF OPINION FROM THE swELLDOM
OF TWO CONTINENTS on PROBLEM IN
EVENING DEESS-THE BLACK TIE
IS 4 FACTOR IN SOCIAL LIFE.

The black tie with evening dress has not yet
found its accepted place. 1t puzzled many man
~ fashion last season. The question to
when 10 and when not to wear has been
q delicate one and few there be that solve IT,
some have solved it. however and pro-
nrnciamento has gone forth which others at
liberty to accept reject. The sensible man will
occent it, If for no other reason than that he Will
find it convenient to have a rule to so by.
During all these months while bankers have been
preaching finance and Congress has been giving
an imitation of the process of making laws, one
man in this city has been seeking accurate
and definite answer to the innumerable queries that
,each him concerning the black tie. He sells such
things in a little store not thousand miles from
pemonico's and Swedom goes there TO buy
his wares and ask his advice. In order TO solve
the black tie problem he has consulted fashions
xoders in three countries. BY personal inquiry
and by letter he has pushed his Investigations, and
even the Prince OF Wales has been brought to
contribute his opinion. recognizing the query to
be of international moment
From the mass of data thus acquired this rule
has been brought forth: Wear the regulation white
lawn tie always with full evening dress; bring
out your black satin tie for sem-evening dress
wearing it at stag" parties. or to the theatre
when YOU don't have box and the lady whom
Won escort is not in evening dress. If you wear
a black tie to Il reception, or dance or in
box at the theatre. YOU violate the code
The lawn tie. 20 be the proper thing this season.
should he fully thirty nine inches long, and two
inches wide at the ends tapering to one inch in
the middle TO say that 1t should not be machine
tied is superfuous Yet 1t is a fact that certain
Young man who has strven to be society leader
in this town. and has obtained in various ways
tremendous amount of free advertisement. wears
n tie so glaringly "ready-made' that 1t could be
recognized a block away. Others may therein feel
themselves excused for doing likewise
In scarfs for general wear the Prince" or flow
ng-end four-in-hand is by all odds the leader
The haberdashers showcases are gay with its
slken folds in what are technically known as
"liyelv" coors, both dark and light, with unnsu-
allv elaborate patterns and many most uehcate
effects. Light mixtures and pure white are also
fayorites the latter. with deicately embossed SILK
tracery. being the regulation for day weddings Inc
long-established and favorite fournhand in sa;ins
with bright effects is still a standard, but pufis'
have been relocated 10 oblivion There is no promi-
nent color The whole spectrum has been called
into play without undue favoritism for any one
Of its bands
The dress shirt has severely plain bosom with
the seam of either half close as possible to the
EDGE and with two buttOn-hole studs These studs
show, the extreme tendency of the effort TO avoid
display They are of simple mother-of-pearl with
excellent imitation Of eyeholes and thread and look
for all the world like the home-sewed buttons OF
boyhood frocks Many men will reject them for
the plain white stud
,wo ,ncbss high with slight "self-roll" The
man who has not a two-nch neck. however, will
be pardoned for getting something else The days
of the pointed-tip or wing collar are past ana
gone For him who desires to be exceedingly
swell there a "turn-down" collar that IL exactly
os tall a. its standing colleague, and has only put
itself forth within the last week. 1t is as cumber-
some as anything that could easily De coh'INeu'
hut il bears the stamp of authority, ana ne WHO
bears its CALLING yoke may walk forth with assur-
snce even though swearing vigorously TO himself
the while. Link cuffs VIII De UNIVERSAL! "Vi"' WIN
square corners preferred
All gloves this season should have one pearl but
ton and what is known as the spear point BACK.
For ordinary wear. bright red and CEDAR tahs VIII
prevail, with the brown-tan, high-priced never
wsar-out reindeer glove for such as fancy them
Oak-tan will ais, be largely used. Dress gloves VIII
be of pearl color with slight pearl stitching These
pear-colored gloves will be used Tor both uay
and evening weddings. superseding the tan glove
which prevailed last year for day weddings. very
greatly 10 the relief OF the haberdasher the en-
eaged young man who brings in piece OF his
hancee's wedding gown and asks for gloves 10
match is buried with the past.
The dress handkerchief is Of plain. white linen.
with narrow border. 1t can be had at the coun-
tiers of him who has solved the black-te ques-
ton at from sl2 TO $50 a Dozen The late financial
unpleasantncss has dampaned the ardor or ire
man who pays s. apiece for his manufacturers
Dress socks of black silk. with embroidered
spots Of delicate shades. Other hosiery Is NANNY
you like it.
The most general change in mems suits this
wear Is that the coats and waistcoats button higher
up There ere other points OF departure-worsted
goods and lambs wool for cut-away coats have
gained In popularity; the diagonal has returned from
its year exile and vies with the soft black lamb
wool for the doublc-breasted frCck coat; trousers
are cut smaller at the foot and are verginS toward
the English "peg-top." Well for mankind If they
stay where they are and don't verge any further
The cutaway coat and the sack are still rivals
for business wear. The former has three buttons
-always-with long skirt and IS made from
woisteds Of dark colors and modest patterns, or
from lambs wool. In sack coats four buttons are
the latest thing, though three are In good forni'
and colored worsted3 and fancy chevOts with the
cut longer than OF yore and do not lit closely.
The doube-breasted frock coats, or PRINCE Alberts.
are long enough 10 reach just below the knee and
have SILK faclngs that extend to the buttonhoe OrT
be double-breasled, but Americans do not take
kindly 70 this With these God,S as r WIN aba1 e and
usually with fine stripes lndstinct checks OF
Dress suits mare are now made mostly from Thlbet
wool. which is perfectly plain and smooth without
lustre The coat has step collar-the man who
says step collar to his tailor rises Immediately in
swallow tails that extend TO the knee, The waist
coat is snglebIeased With rolling collar and tht
bullying shirt-fronts are. literally and hguratvely
not good form. In TINS, as IN Otl"T ppnltS ihe
waisteoat does not differ from last years style.
The fall overcoat Is not so full and not so long as
IL was last year. IL IS Of course single-breasted
and IL silk-faced to the very edge Here again
lambs wool and dissonas are the fayortesa Thf
heavy winter overcOat will be doube-breaSted and
very long with little change In fulness from las'
years cut and made Of smooth beaver or The
''Elysian' beaver that is often called chinchilla
The covert coat in Venetian cloth, OF varying
shades of drab will still be with sack suits
The black tails OF cutaway should not be seer
beneath II. ,, ,,,,, ~
The leading makes of hats differ decidedly. one
leading halter gives the changes in style; the siIE
hat has more of a bell crown, and n wider prln
with heavier curl. The derby has lower anc
more iaperlng crown. with generous brim ana de
cded breadth OF roll. Needless to say no las
years hat can walk abroad without instant Iecog
milton. The soft Homburg hat, In gray shaues' j.
retained in favor. .,,,o, o,o. a.,