New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-03-12

ren,s lodgings, fats. tenements and boarding fou'es
This can never happen while the value Of real estate
iorbids any but rich man 10 own or even rent
house. unless he uses 1t for some business purpose
such as taking borders or keeping a restaurant. In
| the mean time those who think the millennium 100
far of 10 walt for may find n certain melnnchoiy
interest In noting Of the shifts by which persons
suffering under this social condition hopeesslv far
from the ideal strive 10 make TIER lot a. comfort
able as they can. one institution among many which
might fiji the profound student Of life In the city
with dsnlav or furnish diversion Of mild sort 10 the
observer Of less searching scrutiny and lighter mind
Is the table d'hote.
Under the ideal condition already referred to hotels
would BE- maintained only for the convenience OF
actual travellers and temporary sojouncrs In TIE city,
At present as everybody knows, thousands OF people
live In them permanently, the city is full OF them
they are among the most costly and luxurious build
ngs and It IS found profitable constantly to erect
new pnd magnificent ones. once traveller
sighed TO think he st rad found his warmest vel
come a, an inn: New Workers. expect and hope
for other welcome. The fact IS too sad to dwell
npon. Yet the hotels are insufficient for their pur-
pose and in one OF tter uses that OF feeding those
who gre not fed at their homes they have 10 b.
supplemented by innumerable restaurants. one OF
thrs. Is in Fifth-avr.. facing Madison square. and
has tor years enjoyed good reputation.
Another /, In a cellar In Mulberry,t, and the less
reputation 1t has The better for Itself and all persons
range In binds ard degrees OF restaurants. Now. even
with an Ideal condition Of society few good restau
rants would be desirable, for many persons are kept
at various OF employment far from their dwellings
for large part Of each day and they need lunche0ns
Cases are conceivable in which person who might
be 10 dicred!t society might find occasion 10 dine
nj a restaurant, bat as rule the bulk OF the popula
ton ought to go home to dinner
Tn. population Us now constituted Is doubtless
divided into variou, buks, and there Is one great
bulk which does not home to dinner, but goes u
tables d'Lote. Moreover, the table dhotc habit Is
apparently on the increase. There are more Of them
than there used u be; the older ones are better
attended than they ever were before. and the new
one, do good business. You can get a capital table
dhrc dinner for 81 30, and something which bears
h.. nam may hc found at forty cents or even less.
But no who has deep conscience ana the good
Of Inf, kind ut heart will recommend a able d'hoc
which costs less than forty cents The one at 81 80
Is luxury appropriate TO persons with purses that
ought 10 Insure them against tables dhote altogether;
dinner at II % /, an attempt To attract people OF
the same means by the prospect Of saving p
cents: the 81 table d'hote ought furnish much
as the diner can possibly eat and all OF excellent
quality, a good and substantial meal should be- had
for rs cents. while the price paid by the
great mass OF table dhotc fanatics enthusiasts.
vcri,s and experlmcnlcIs Is so cents. II Is safer,
on the whole, to beware OF anything cheaper than
wine. may well be viewed with suspicion. for demons
NAV Turk not only In the wine, but In the soup and
tn. rntrcc.
BESIDES th, classification by prices there Is another
Classification by nations. The mot important classes
OF tables d'hote are the French the Italian and the
German in the order named. There Is such thing
AS an American taile dhote. and sometimes /, good,
bu, # should not be tried mshly. indeed at all.
unless the expcrimcnter has some previous !nmaon
OF the nature and quality OF the particular one In qies
ton II is the purpose OF the present sketch to treat
only OF the French kind The others may possibly be
touched upon at later period but the French deserves
IN b. first. The name table d'hote itself Is French,
the French specimens are more abundant aud more
couspicuous than the others. and besides. on gen
ora, average they better than the others. The
French are the cooks in the world and the second
hest are bad second. The writer asserts this de-
b.raty In the full possession OF his mental faculties
and remembering well many early Delights of New
England turkey with cranberry sauce, baked beans'
Indian budding and doughnus, rs well as later expe-
RANGES .of English mutton chops and plum phddlngs,
German notato salad and Frankfort sau,ages. besides
Irish slows and bacon and green's. lie would as soon
hrow stones his nurse and his scho0nnster as say
one word against any OF these, he mas many ume
b,en helped to Il second piece OF pumpkin pie ana
ho,.. 70 be many time again. bun cool judgment and
stct canior all personal prejudice aside compel The
admission that Us nation the French are nnrivalled
Probably as good an example as any OF the best
lass NJ French table dhote In New-iork Is that Of
,he Hotel Martin. The house has the name OF the
saint who especially protects innkeepers. and when
the ipnkeeper Is q faithful man. whose virtues as
generous host are his protection and their own re-
ward II possible that the saint may cast fathery
., upon the guests TO that their meats are well
served their red wine not too cold and their white
wine not too warm. At any rate the guests who
dine al the Martin must fnd themselves nnder some
lenignant care for they come again and again and
I'm such numbers that 1t Is often hard for the walters
10 find tables for them. sunday evening Is the best
time. Sunday Is day when the ordinary New
yor,,cr dimes at lunchcon-time. After that he needs
good dinner at Gnnertime TO give MIN right start
for the week. many people feel this way that
every table at the Martin has guests around 1t and
every room Of the house that can lie spared for the
purpose Is filled with tables. The company Is not
French by any means. individually the most OF the
a.. nvohshiv Americana. but collectively they