The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-10-29
IN THE STEERAGE TO COLON.
TWEEN DECK LIFE IN a P<CfFTo MAIL
STEAMER FROM NEW FORK.

STEAMER FROM NEW FORK.
Private Quarters and Cabin Food to be Hr
by Tipping the Steward. bat the Reeuir
Fare IL Not B.d-The People One Meet
and the Charm OF Tropical voyasinE.
This is q story OF life between decks on
Pacific Mail steamer while en- route from Net
York to Colon. had engaged to obtain sue
pictures and stories as we're to be found amon
the Ladinos. the interesting race OF hall
breeds ruling tho country between Panam
and Paso del Norto-such views as might b.
obtained from the main deck Of q cattle boat
or the orlop deck OF dugout. or the back o
an ill-trnined mule while hurrying along b,
any pnssible road to the west and north will
the rainy season in close pursuit l
was a part OF the plan OF this outins
that I should experience tho discomfort,
and miseries necessarily incident to
steerage passage In the tropics" In order tina
tho readers OF THE Sun might be reminded By
the tale OF how much better of they are than
some other people. And so It happened thai
| on tho morning OF Jan. 30 last entered the
office OF the steamship company at the foot oil
Canal street with what sailor would call my
dunnnge rolled UP in q canvas hammock OF
slowed in n small valise. The baggage did not
| seem very extensive in quantity or expensive
in quality: besides. had left my overcoat at
tho spruce young clerk behind the counter.
after q look. went on with the writing on which
he was engaged for q minute or two before
asking me what wanted 1t Is not an unoom-
mon practice for clerks to assume that men
who do not wear overcoats In January are In
no hurry when they enter business Offices.
After a little time this clerk said to mo:
"Wellp"
"A Storage ticket for Colon" said I.
You mean forward cabin. We have no
Storage on these ships"
Very we'll. l want the cheapest you've got"
Forty dollars"
What Is the price to Panama"
"Forty-nve dollars"
And to San Franoisco2"
"Forty-nve dollars: but there Amt any
scalpers in Panama"
l wanted to go to Panama direct. but
bought a ticket to Colon. and 40 saved S.. 80.
as will appear at another time.
At the head Of the Rangway leading from the
pier to the deck OF the City OF Para bright
boy In blue uniform with the word Cadet"
in gold on his cap directed the passengers to
their quarters. found the forward cabin
on the main deck. say six feet above the water
line. 1t was room perhaps 12x14 feet large.
There were six hunks on each side and n
white-haired Swede. who said he was the
steward in the middle. There were also in the
room two Arabs and metal worker who had
not washed himself since leaving the shop
three days before invited the steward out =
side. where could talk to him confldentially
Il want to experience the discomi forts and
miseries OF storage passage In the tropics"
said. That's a part OF the plan Of my outing,
but wouldn't like to have those chaps in
there catch me at it." Hero took out q SIS
biz; Now. II you have a private room like
n
H. !, to9k the SIS and led the way instantly to
9I little door marked Forward Cabin Pantry"
two lockers. two deck buckets and an empty
pickle Jar. There was neither food nor dish
way that led to space where H three p" bSnss
fs'sS Sb 't0 +, g sk'fht BY day and
clean. sweet, and we'll ventilated
sd y :ss SS' waited SSs Il to PfS'
.tasp the discomforts and missries Of
hss osseF It will
There's only one took. suppose he's an
other gent down on his luck,
SAYING so%eth!ps no ordinary psrso nee eo sh
decks at the time; and another on the pier. and md
everybody wn ;H, taking to somebody, The bell
was talking to a group on the upper deck. and and
he asked the boy sharply what all that noise
was MADE Tor.
It's for everybody to 90 ashore what amt
gWtne. sab" said the boy.
,h Bless my ay soul shoald have known that"
went over the bridge With throns f that hsd
already started In that way. When all had
and the ship, with stunning blast OF Of its w Iai
tie. backed slowly into the stream. leaving the
people on the pier wayng their handkerchiefs
hose on board had no possible Chance OF
hearing. Out IN the stream she stopped. hang
ill her wheel was started In another direction
md then she begain slicing her way to the
,red the river and the passengers made haste
o seek shelter from the chilly blast that was
'oming from across the Jersey fats.
Down in the private stateroom. behind the
nWp on e1 bis Pantry found the other
elbow. in good clothes Who said aidu he was w9sn
garpenter who had Showed a plane from San
Wa SDW 4Grk BY Of
wy Of the Isthmus lust to see the world
!, we got on friendly terms very quickly. and
o see what we could find. Every bunk there
ad been taken. and it was an interesting
roHnd IN front of the hunks. One man was
DE n English civil engineer; who had graduated
ractis ing, his profession in Spain. Esypt .
nd Is "a auS ira h. was bound to callor.
Ias bound out in the steerags. because ye l
awnt tell now long ye'll be lying idle. don't .
on know: and 1t is good plan to have ready
, hay tE when one is iale in strange place
alvador to enter the business house OF a
elatiye. He had had plenty OF money for a !
rst-e class passage. but while stopping over in
ew York had found the, suppers and dinners ,
D good and tho companionship of chance ac- {
uaintances so eInioyable that he was obliged I
70 steeraGe. 1t was great trial after the 8
elights OF lilo in tho American METROPOLIS. .
nd he was so dolorous that he amused the y
70, 'st- th ahen mere was heterogeneous gather
nanics bound for California. hoping to i'm &
rove their chances in life a
On the starboard side OF the shin. opposite v
10 storage. was the forward cabin for women,
mad but one occupant, Capt Gus Durlaeher j
whom The SIN told an interesting story 4
oy. an officer on Mr.: .Vanderbilts yacht Ava. 4
skipper OF the New York Central tug Eyertse. u
nd had Just bossomel out as a commercial v
ayelier and was bound to Costa Rica. Near T.
qua: ana Honduras with thousand dollars a
sample watches. Iowclr y. and other things.
By process OF natural selection the steer Il
20 passengers very quickly divided them 2
I've, into sets or cliGues. The Arabs had a 1
r a ll-pOnteStaI of hn, lu !