The record-union., 1893-08-26

Most curious architectural bits are found
haIf-hldden in tiny courts. Windows
seem TO nave sprung through roofs; bal
| COMES overhang succeeding roofs; land
lngs lead into street doors and second
story entrances OF the same house; every
where are potted flowers and ferns. vines
! upon trellises, roses trained across
windows, and between the gables, or
across roofs, continual changing glimpses
| OF the foreshore show mass of kaleido-
scope color, like huge bank of flowers
set close 10 the shimmering blue of rip
pling sea.
Not only is all this at your feet for con-
temptation Ii you are lettering on Castle
! HIil, but the spars OF fishing smacks and
other curious craft are like a reedy sedge
/ beneath you to the south. Then comes
me OLD harbor and its messy pier, the bay
hiled with pleasure sails flying hither
ana thlther like great white birds skim
ming low along the ripping sheen of
Dlue, anG beyond, the steely blue of the
North Sea, with fishing fleets at anchor
III llny patches, or merchant ships send
| ding to the Baltic and the north, with
now and then trailing plumes of smoke
from distant steamers close and low upon
the Tar horizon rim. To the north, an
other cove cuts into the high and lofty
shore. Landward are moors, sand dunes,
/ ragged cllf1s hung with rank and trailing
Verdure, and cove and cliff and moor,
! clpltous shores to where the North Sea
thunders endlessly against the headlands
/ OF weird and dreary Robin Hoods Bay.
! All about you are the ruins of the an
clent and stupendous castle which was
! once the glory of Scarborough. Vast, in
deed, were the medieval strongholds of
Britain, and this one, well-nigh impreg-
naDle III It's time, was one of the hugest
| fortresses Of the entire eastern coast. 1t
\ was built by Earl William LIE Gros, who
| married Adeliza, daughter of William
the Conqueror, and who ruled in the East
with princely authority. When Henry
H., endeavored to break the power of the
mobiles which eclipsed the authority of
! the Crown and commanded the demoli-
ton OF their castles he came here in per-
son TO see this great piled raZed, but
struck with its splendid proportions and
lmpregnability, increased its strength and
| magnl1cence instead. The tremendous
moat on the landward side is we'll pre-
served. The stately keep is still nearly
! 100 feet high with walls twelve feet in
! thickness, and in the castle yard can still
/ be traced the splendid chapel which once
was here, for no men were more pious
than were these mighty pillagers and
/ murderers of old.
The beauty and fashion to be seen at
! Scarborough are pronounced enough to
give the place all the gayety of Brighton.
! London sends thousands here for the
season." which continues from May
until October, and the great interior man
ufacturing cities, like Birmingham, Man
/ chester and Leeds, divide their fashiona-
BILE summer patronage between Scarbor-
ough and the Peak of Derbyshire, but the
place is enthusiastically different from
any other seaside resort | have found in
| England. The rich and titled who visit
scarborough seem to be here for the rest
and health rather than for rounds of gay
! ETY. and fashionable enjoyment w hat
| ever may be its spell you are no sooner
! within 1t than spirit of idling. lettering
and delightful dreamful laziness pos
| sess you. At the great balls, concerts and
| promenades on the Cliff, all procedure is
measured, quiet and stately. There are
no blare and flare in Scarborough. The
shops are shady, cool and quiet. Go the
whole length of Westborough, Newbor-
| ough and Eastborough streets, from the
/ high railway station TO the cleaning
sands, and though your stroll may have
| brought you in contact with from 10000
| to $4,000 people, you will not have heard a
sound that would disturb the placid
/ serenity of sunny country church lane.
IL is as though the breeze, the sun, the
sea and the gray old town of gray old
stairs soothed theirritability and even or
/ Glnary activity of men into gentle COM
placence and peace.
This popularity is still more noticeable
upon the beach. In all other seaside re-
sorts | have ever visited, the sands al
ways presented a scene of rollicking ac-
tivity and life. Men, women and chill
| dren were In sort of wild intoXication
and delirium of enjoyment. l haze seen
from $4,000 to $1,000 people at one time
upon Scarborough beach, and | am quite
/ certain one-third of the number were
sound asleep. This is most mark ed with
| the folks from the mills and mines
| While the hundreds of bathing machines
those little covered wagons which are
unknown in America, but which are in
England used for robing and dsrobing,
and are wheeled out and in with the tide
are constantly in use it is the middle
class which thus disports. Operatives and
miners who come to the seaside come Tor
the change, the rest, the air. They al
most seem to eat the latter, poor fellows!
! They burrow in the sand and are savage
if disturbed.
Twenty or thirty operatives from Leeds
will be piled together, with their families,
! halt-hidden III the sand pits they have
dug. The men are all doing or sound
asleep. One of a party of passing friends
pokes one of the sleepers with his foot.
He rouses himself and regards the intru-
der with lazy, half-closed eyes. The lat
ter asks
"Howsta du Iad?''
"Haw,. gaaly, gaaly-gaaly eniff fur
t. times"
sam gather oop thysal and goa an
tax rench (rinse) i ia sea-
''Noa, ah ~ doa'nt go hurpling abart
I fit to give body others Wen ah COON =
sea. All get gurt netting DOT cleaning
up t Leeds. Is't Lunnun foalk wor
just slaaked DER T. hoam, m maun be
scrowin' (scrubbing) theirsals throo morn
to neetr'
And he turns in his sand pit with con-
temptuous snort for unwashed London
ers who are compelled to come so far for
netting oot," and with his mouth wide
open to the sea breeze which he gulps like
drink, settles himself placidly for another
bit of dooven," or doze.
In getting about among these millmen.
miners and their families at Scarborough
l found that many came here during the
season not with the great excursions,
which sometimes bring to such resorts
as southport and Scarborough upwards
OF oO,OUO souls IN a single day, but in lit
tie groups of dozeus or scores, to remain
for an entire week. This is Accomplished
by each workman paying weekly, during
the entire year, stated sum of from one
to three shlllings, according to the num-
Der of persons to be provided for, into
the hands of a treasurer or agent. With
this amount pooled operatives and mi
ners get as long a journey as they like,
comfortable housing and good food, and
weeks rest and pleasure in almost any
part OF England or Scotland. 1t is a sur
prising thing to find these toilers so well
informed upon British history and upon
British shrines. They select in advance
the place TO be visited, and then assidu-
ousIy read all that their village or town
library may contain upon the place or re-
gion. These cooperative trips are taken
to the lake district, to Abhotsford, Mel
rose and Dry burgh, occasionally to as far