New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-08-11
DRESS IN PARIS.
NOTES on CURRENT FASHIONS.
Paris, July =

X.
Mauye a deep shade of lilac. Is a favorite coa.~
for young girls this summer. Formerly that cois.
was considered old, and worn chiefly by slder,y
women for evening dresses, and by mammas at ~.
weddings Of their sons and daughters Now youne
girls wear the color in preference to light hlue
Fashion is only a thing of convention Once upou
time young ladies never thought of wearing pansHs.
they were considered exclusively the flowers 70,
mammas anu even for mammas of q certain ara
Now pansies are the favorite flower OF the yo,ins
and pretty and becoming the hats and capotsa
covered with them.
A Felix calling dress Of pale yellow taffetas b.
sine Is trimmed with black silk tule. The tule
ia worked with pale yellow daisies. The wide ana
narrow founces Of the skirt are Joined with bauA
of extremely light and transparent cut Jet. Thu
INNER sleeves are made Of a series Of pinke1
ru,es placed at sufficient intervals to make them
look light and fluffy. Care must be taken to have
the rufes narrower at the elbow and widen SrsA-
ually as they reach the shoulder for In that con.
sists the grace Of the sleeve. The lower part Of
Tho sleeve IS of yellow silk covered with the tuIa
Tho woke and corselet are of tulle and the belt
and neck band of Jet With this dress, Feliy
arranged an exquisite medley OF tule and rufdes
as a shoulder cape The edges of it were gathered
I'm front and there the cape was tied with two
long wide tabs OF tulle whose ends hung far b.
low the waist This is one Of Felix's fayorite
wrap trimmings, and l recommend 1t, for It 10,
becoming alike to slender women and to those
who have a surplus Of avordupois.
French women are now wearing the stiff colored
and white shirt fronts with standing collar nascu.
line ties and Elton jackets. which you have had
for some time in New-York. / believe. They may
be becoming to American women and very pract.
cal: but they are not becoming to the French
They look as II they had put on their younger
brothers things for a lark on Mardi-Gras am
sure they will soon have their eyes opened to the
fact and return to the soft, gracefully draped
stuffs which they have the secret of wearing.
Another Felix calling dress in the Louis XIV
style, for which this couturier has a weakness, 10
made up with a straight falling skirt Of pale pink
pompadour silk, shot with a grayish sheen, strewn
with roses of a deeper shade These are tempered
in tone with the gray sheen, which looks ike
n flmy veil drawn over the roses. The round bod.
ice is Of royal blue satin whose upper part Is COW
cred with hand embroidery which In the back
designs deep pointed yoke. This embroidery In
delicate colors mingled with gold and silver
threads is marvel of handiwork. 1t continues
over the shoulders and in front assumes the shape
Of a short bolero, meeting at the chest and drawn
across q tlght-ftting front blouse OF soft howered
net lined with blue satin. This wash net above
from where the bolero is Joined, Is made into q
small chemisette OF net and narrow lace insert
ings, and below the plain net is gathered and
drawn into a wide embroidered belt, which is hard
ly visible in the back with the blue bodice drawn
over it, Blue satin forms the lower part OF the
sleeve. The upper sleeve Is made OF series OF
pink pompadour ruffies pnked at the edge. Each
rufile Is detached and Tapped over on the arm and
they increase in size they reach the shoulder
A summer gown for young girl made by Felix
is of white batiste with light mauve de-
signs. The skirt is slightly gathered all around.
and is trimmed with three founces bound with
white and mauve border The deep yoke has wide
serthgs OF wne aee n,ed from VIDE de hand
of bordered batiste is gathered In the back at the
ovsr 81 the ns sseve and AFTER reaching the middle
of the front yoke II is tied with bow, and the
wide ends are left to fall nearly to the bottom OF
A walking dress of dark blue fouard with small
each trimmed with two rows OF white suipure m
settings The guipure is sewed on the goods be-
about half way down the length OF the first. You
see it is the revival of the double skirt The lower
s k Would 81 make se s skirt run look too
The accordion pleated bodice has two rows OF gut
%as near the VIZ" snpr Gs hese bod
Sss al pessb a on Waits st silk Ry lining % %Umsa
h t d@ pss o 70 San TO k s ad sbr
waists The uppir part Of the sleeve is a pun OF
accordion-pleated fouard and insertings to match
sleeve is made of rows OF guipure running around
the arm and separated by narrow bias bands OF
made tight fitting and to extend a little above
the elbow. With this dress there is a pretty
pleated foulard and gupure rutes The upper
rOws-one lace and the other foulard-are stifened
and have deep dents. which take upward d.
rcction and form a high neck trimming.
| must describe 1880 bonnet which Is rather
eccentric but very effective. 1t is made Of shirred
pink crepc-lisse. The transparent shirred
sants above IL reaches the broad bullying brim.
over the front wide white lace is draped. and
the border is left to droop somewhat in the front
Five long. large black ostrich tips gathered in a
bunch are pinned to the brim little at sde
At the side of the tuft the back. large,
deep red rose with bud and leaves is careessly
pinned II fallen there by chance. There are
wide pink satin strings and a black velvet inside
band with red rose and buds fastened one
side of the brim
The most practical falageuse. and the one which
Is prettest when disclosed is the pinked on
both sides. made rather narrow. and gathered in
the middle. The upper part is tucked, of course.
After trying them women will like them far better
than the gathered founce. which is "bunchy.'
French women do not carry the leather bag with
silver clasp which the American women have
adopted, especially in travelling But they are be-
ginning to carry the long. d-fashioned reticule
made OF silk, lace and ribbons Both bag and
reticule are very useful In these times when the
dress pockets are put In the impossible
places.
Has IL become fashionable in America for young
women 10 courtesy To the older ones when they
enter "A drawing room? 1t has been done here for
the last year or two Ii is not only a pretty,
graceful mode. but a deferential one
Al dinners do you put low stools for women
to rest their feet upon? They are so comfortable
That 1t Is said that women's amability is much In.
creased by them.