The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1893-07-09
An AMERICAN IN EUROPE.
Observations Upon the Life and Politics
of Twenty-Five Years Ago.
NJ THE LATE
LANES SHEPH ERD PIKE.
The Highlands.

Going from Edinburgh we come upon the
Wristbands Just before we reach Stirling. They
lilo in q line almost directly across our path,
forming the ramparts OF nearly level country
over which we pass in our approach.
On one OF tho perpendicular spurs juttinR
conspicuously from the range stands white
unfinished shaft, o monument to William WAL
lace 1t being late In tho season the regular
conyeyances to the Trosachs were all discon-
tinued. wetook q carriage for Loeb Katrine.
through this celebrated pass The day was
perfect the first good one We had had for q
week. Though the weather promised we'll. we
would run no risk OF Its continuance. A wise
determination, as the sequel proved. for the
morrow opened cold and rainy. the hills were
concealed By mist and the high rolling moors
an tho distance covered with snow. and fierce
gallo was blowing.
We pushed on ten miles to tho lake ut brisk
trot, these Highland horses not checking their
mace for small hills 1t Is ono advantage OF
these rocky and mountainous countries that
the foundation for their roads 10 80 good that
4 weeks rain does not make m inch Of mud on
their solid surface.
We had seen q high hill with It's top
sprinked with snow before We left tho cars,
which we soon found to be Bon Lodi We had
some hesitation in accepting this as q speci-
men OF tho celebrated mountains OF Scotland.
but concluded to do 1t out OF respect to the
gentlemen who had made so much out OF
Them. On our way UP to tho lake We loft Bon
Lodi on our right. passing It without dill Guilty.
which lessened our respect . little. since o
Seritable mountain. We have always found By
experience. stands long in your way. We
passed up by the side OF o long. narrow pond
OF clear water. known as Loch Vennaohor.
and directly In front Of us rose hill Of fuller
proportions and somewhat higher in appear
anca This was Ben Venue. on the side OF
which Fitz James lost that famous gallant
grey" which young persons have 80 long and
90 often lamented.
On our right rose o little lump Of hill
which We were informed was the third cello
brated mountain OF the distriot-Ben Aan.
We found no hindrance In driving at trot
through tho Trosachs, and. while We per-
ceived 1t was wild and beautiful We were yet
moro struck by what We did not see.
Loeb Katrine was soon ct our feet in the
shape Of long. crooked nook OF water. which
seemed deep and clear. It was bounded by
stoep wooded banks. and threaded it's circuit
tous way q mile or moro into the main body
1.-THE lake beyond. A little screw steamer lay
moored near small pier. which. together
with the passage to II. was covered by thntch
resting on rustic supports.
u.s. as the season had closed. and they wore
simply mementos OF the past and the promise
OF that which is to come.
We were solitary and alone on o route over
which three or four and twenty thousand holi-
day seekers had passed during the season
Just ended. drawn along chiefly by the en-
chanting dreams OF tho groat author. We
thought OF Scott. and we quoted Scott. and we
crossed ourselves at tho name OF Scott. and we
never wondered more at the viRor and breadth
OF his fancy. Tho monument at Edinburgh
seemed mono too largo.
As We could not 20 up the lake we retraced
our steps over the route we had come. The
return trip failed to remove the disappoint-
mont wo had experienced on our flrst view
The high rolling moors increased q little in
altitude, and thoir soft. graceful curves and
veivety surface showed moro impressively
after our higher expectations had subsidized.
But tho mountains failed to rise. There
they wero. fat lamps OF hills. very rocky and
often precipitous. ovor which Fitz James GER
tainly never did ride that gallant grey" He
might have got over tho moors from Stirling.
hut. as matter OF fact We agreed with Mr..
Gradgrind that he never could have got round
TO the far side Of Ben Venue in the period
allotted to that chase. We all felt
every disposition to render moro than
justice TO Mr.. Scott. and acknowledged
ths wonderful genius OF the great poet in
reoDling those barron regions with the chill
dron OF his Imagination. We reverently de-
elined to suggest doubt that any one OF them
could have failed to do tho deeds Inscribed to
him. Only Mr. Gradgrnd resolutely reflect
Oh the story Of the ride. in which opinion we
reluctantly yielded painful concurrence.
Tho new hotel at the Trosachs Is = very orna-
mental structure. In which convenience is
sacrificed TO show. Two high circular turrets
rise at the ends Of the building. with con-
icai roofs covered with slate. and the stable
looks like n fortress. Everything is castel-
lated aud nothing Is convenient.
In anticipating the glories Of the Highlands
OF Scotland. one should not expect Thorn to be
moro than their name Imports. namely. high
lands They are In no sense mountains. Thoy
are two or three thousand feet above the sea
le7ol. but half this elevation 10 overcome be-
fore We get to their base.
Like tho wide. hiGh.rolling moors which
seem to be half as high as the Highlands them
selves. they arc without trees or shrubs oven.
Along tho foot OF the hills and through tho
broken passes growth OF white birch. larch
anu iir. and occasional oaks are found. Timber
OF various sorts grows whore tho strea ms
spread out through the various intervals, but
inc great characteristic OF tho landscape 10
haKodness and barrennoss. The heather as
eerts Its en- pire everywhere. and tho whin. or
lnrze. and juniper and fern spread over the
thin and reluctant soil.
We meet here the Highland cattle. a brood Of
small, compact. rugged animals. with great
horns and long shaggy hair. and looking as II
they might be sheared to advantage. These
animals are taken from the mountains to DO
iattened on the lowland pastures. and though
they are very small tho beef they make 10 so
mighty esteemed that 1t brings a higher price
III London than any other
1t seems to be OF similar excellence to that
made by the rich pastures OF southern Penn
sy'ania out Of tho starveling little Maryland
cattle, driven up annually In spring, to be sold
20 the farmers OF Chester and Lancaster coun-
TICS But this beok though unsurpassed In
havor and excellence. never yet has horne
corresponding price In our metropolitan mar
kots for the want OF q Just appreciation Of its
merits. BY and by tho Philadelphians and
New Workers. will be as wise MS the Londoners
arc in regard 70 THAR Highland cattla