davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
ONE EPOCH IN WOMAN'S DRESS.
The Fashions of 1903 and the Fashions of the Year
IS30-Styles of the Past

gowns were always elegant in their SIM
pllclty. AT the opera her Royal Htghness
wore white organdie, low in the neck, but
no ornaments, and high tortoise-shell
comb completed a graceful couture. In
those days nearly all the ladies were seen
at the opera with bonnets. These were
IN rice or Italian straw, ornamented with
plumes and ribbon. The Bib was Of
watered ribbon and lace and replaced
strings The cepes. placed one above the
other. so la mode to-day, were worn then
and were often seen on satin Tedingotes.
The most beautiful costumes then, as to-
day, were seen at the races, theateTs and
court balls. Each new play gave name
to some fOible of fashion, and each actress
of distinction was model for the femmes
du monde.
Then, unlike to-day. society went to the
opera balls and Musard. called the "Paga-
mini of the Dance" conducted an orchestra
of 200 musicians. Never before nor since
has such eccentric music for the dance
been heard. At a given moment, and in
measure, chairs were broken or pistols
Tired, and the dancers. excited by this
magical music, carried the conductor on
their shoulders around the room, while the
spectators exclaimed, ''Vive Musard"
Young dandieS were made commiSsaires
of these balls, and their chief duty was to
lead the ladies by the hand as they entered
the ballroom. Men wore blue, brown or
black swallOwtail coats. very tight fitting,
with full skirts and broad reVers. The
velvet collars were very high, trousers
tight, and short enough to show the stock
ings. Evening coats were blue, with gold
buttons, satin or silk revers; vest and
trousers of white or black casimir, en-
brodered white stockings. and shoes lined
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

church and a postoffice, and at the latter
all travellers who come this way drop let
tiers to far-away friends because they will
bear the postmaTk nearest to the south pole.
the site of Punta Arenas Spanish for
SANDY Point) was certainly not chosen
for its beauty. Looking at a map of the
world you will see that the long sand spit
it occupies is farther south than the Cape
of Good Hope or any other inha land,
and consulting the captains lpgbonk YOU
will read that squalls off the land known
by the PatagOnian name of wiiliwauas are
so very strong as sometimes to lay ships on
their beam ends"
How did it happen that a town ever
grew in this distant and dismal spot? In
this way: Just half a century ago lin 1919
the Chilean Government. looking around
for the most cherries place of punishment
to which 1t might Danish certain political
offenders " hom 1t dared not kill outright.
hit upon this tip end of Patagonia, because
from here there seemed no way Of escape
but in speedy death.
q bout this time Port Famine, on the
site Of Sarmienta's celebrated COLONY. in
Northern Chile, began to prove itself too
habitable for a penal colony, aud its pris-
eners were transferred to Sandy Point.
Oeher eonvicts were added from time TO
time, and, although the new arrivals did
not always prove agreeable compan ions OR
valued citizens. there is strength in num-
bers.
But Chile suddenly took a new interest
in her now prosperous colony. aud PAID it
so much unnecessary attention that the
privileges OF the industrious eXiles whom
she had left to starve we're more aud more
restricted The Government sent down
an additional force of soldiers. Osten-
sibly to keep the ALWAYS friendly
Indians in check, but really to con-
troll the profitable gold and coal and cat
tie trade. The convicts felt that since
they had succeeded in making homes for
themselves in the wilderness against such
fearful ODDS they had earned the right to
enjoy them, and in 1877 the injudicious
severity of the Federal Governor preciDi-
tated revolt. So many re-enforcements
had been added 10 the original number Of
educate1 politicians, the worst classes of
criminals from all the prisons of Chile,
that the respectable pioneers, to whom
belonged all the credit of prosperity, had
no longer a controlling influence. For a
time pandemonium reigned. The desper-
ate revolters overcame the guards, set fire
to the houses, and forced the officials and
all peaceabe citizens to fly to the forest
1t happened. fortunately. that Brazilian
war vessel came along about this time, and
the insurgents were oVerpowered and
order restored.
After this no more convicts were sent to
Punta Arenas. New and better houses
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

be found anywhere, for. though English is
most generally spoken. every language
known TO man is heard here. There are
Poles. Irish, Germans, Canadians, Swedes,
Italians, Russian Jews. French, negroes.
Chinese. Spaniards, Yankees, Portuguese.
aboriginal Indians human flOtsam and
jetsam representing all sorts and condi-
tons of men; deserters from all navies,
shipwrecked mariners and fugitiveS from
justice from every clime-many of whom
would not be willing to tell you where they
came from or what their true names were
in some other part of the world, and most
of whom would not remain another minute
if they could help il. There are few
good women in the settlement-perhaps
enough to have saved Sodom; but rs for
the majority of female residents-drink-
ing, fighting. swearing creatures of every
brogue ana color-the least said about the
poor things the better. The first society"
is composed of a Consul or two, the ship
agents, traders and half dozen doctors
and notaries The district Governor re-
sides in swell style in what was once the
convict barracks, and horses are corralled
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

worn bell-shaped skirts, feather and fur
boas. ribbon belts. orDamented with dia+
mond buckles and cashmere or barege
scarfs. Corsages were cut low i'll the
neck. and the shoulders were always WISH
bic. This fashion began during the reign
of Louis XVIII, for it is said that this
monarch was al admirer of beautiful
shoulders.
To-day we see the sleeves, berthas,
round skirts and boas all copied from the
fashions between 1920 and 1885, but bap-
tiZad by our modern fashion rulers -
m odes of 1880" Every fas hion plate of
that time has been bought by the great
dressma kers. and every woman who aspires
t. the title of elegante has her gown
modelled carefully after these plates. We
must acknowledge that our grandmothers
were more graceful than we are. but short
skirts. sandals without heels and white
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

robe of shaggy buffalo hide, looms upon
karoo or prairie much larger in appearance
than he really is. And the once-sturdy
Patagonian, like his PARKWAY cousin, the
North American, seemed to have acquired
all the vices of civilization, but none of its
virtues, his highes; ambition nowadays be-
ing 10 get enough TO eat, drink aud smoke
with the least possible labor. He hangs
around the ranches tn pick up the refuse
scraps that are thrown TO the dogs and him.
self. and depends upon stealing and beg
giDg for whisky and tobacco. II is the old
story, pitifully true, wherever the red man.
has adopted the white on peaceaOle terms
as near nelghhor.
The above description of land and peo-
pie strange to maDv is from letter writ
ten by Fannie B. Ward TO the ST. Louis
Embellishments, ana she adds:
The demands of fashion are as impera-
tive with the PatagOnan as with the New
York belle, and IN his costume there Is
never the slightest variation. large
square rug of guanaco hides is fastened.
fur side outward, around the body under
the armpits and hangs 10 the top of the
fur boots. Another fur rug with a slit III
the middle, through which 10 pass the
head, falls over the shoulders. The long,
stiff, black hair is PARTIALLY held in place
10y strips Of cloth. which are sometimes
not wider than a Roman filet, and again
form sort oil cap or turban.
Among his redeeming features is an IN
shaken belief in the Immortality of the
soul. TIE name of mis- god is Coche,
wlrose distin gushing attribute is a very
tender and loving disposition. Perhaps
you have noticed that the character of a
man, whether his skin be white. black, red
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

to get, cannot be bought for money-nor
can they be gotten rid of at any price.
AS YOU may imagine. the objects Of nj st
interest TO us in Punta Arenas are the
parties of Indians which strsggie In daily
at this time of year TO exchange their furs
and ostrich feathers for provisions and the
glass beads and other worthless trInkets
their souls delight in. Judging from them
the giants" we used to read about are all
dead and the race far gone in its decadencG.
The term "Patagonian" is entirely un-
known among these Indians. Their true
name, collectively and individually. and
by which all the tribes call themselves, Is
Isonecas. The word Pata-Rones (meanina
"duck-footed" mem refears to their Pc
culiar footgear. The lower limbs are Id
cased in boots without soles. made of enaa-
AGO skin, with the beautiful yellowish fun
turned outward. The leg is covered from
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
SALVINI.
His Impression of Z" Hamlet as Pre-
scented by Irving,

SSutCA ny hfifSs
hardly had l arrived in London, in the
spring, when 1 noticed the posting on the
bll-boards of the city Of the announce
ment of the seventy-secOnd night of
Hamlet" at the Lyceum Theater,, with
Henry Irving in the title role. | had con-
tracted with MaplesOn to give only three
plays in my season. ''Othello." the "Gladi-
ator'' and Hamlet" the latter having
been insisted upon by Mapeson himself.
who. as a speculator. well knew that curl
Osity as TO a comparison would draw the
public to Drury Lane.
was very anxious to see the illustrious
English artist in that part, and | secured
box and went to the Lyceum. i was re-
ogniZed by nobody. and remaining as it
were concealed in my box, l had good
opportunity to satisfy my curiosity. | ar
rived at the theater little too late. so
that | missed the scene of Hamlet" in
presence of the ghost of his father. the
scene which in my judgment contains the
ciew TO that strange character, and from
which all the synthetic ideas OF Hamlet"
are developed. | was In time to hear only
the last words OF the oath of secrecy.
was struck by the perfection Of the stage
setting. There was a perfect imitation
of the effect of moonlight, which
at the proper times Hooded the
stage with its rays or left it in
darkness. Every detail was excelently
and exactly reproduced. The scene was
shifted and Hamlet began his illusions,
his sallies OF sarcasm, his SententiOuS say
ings, his POINTS of satire with the courtiers.
who sought to study and to penetrate the
sentiments Of the young PRINCE. In this
scene Irving was simply sublime! His
mobile face mirIored his thoughts. The
subtle penetration OF his phrases, so per-
feet in shading and inciSiveneSS, showed
him TO be master OF art. | DO not believe
there is an actor Who can stand beside him
in this respect, and ] was SO much i'm
pressed by IL that AT the end of the second
act l said to myself: Il Will not play Ham
let! Mapeson can say what he likes, but
L Will not play II, and | said it with the
fullest resolution.
In the monnlOgue. ITO be or not TO be"
Irving was admirable; IN the scene with
ODhelia he "as deserving OF the highest
praise; in that OF the players he was NOV
Ing, and in all this part of the play he ap-
peared 10 my eyes 10 be the most perfect
interpreter of that eccentric character
But further on 1t was not so, and for the
sake of art | regretted it. From the time
when the passion assumes a deeper hue,
and reasoning mOderateS impulses which
are forcibly curbed. Irving seems to me to
show mauDerism, and to be lacking in
power and strained, aud it is not in him
alone that find this fault, but in nearly
all foreign actors. There seems to be a
lInit o. passion within which they renal n
| true in their rendering of nature; but be-
| yOnd that limit they became transformed,
aud take on cOnventionality in their in
/ donations. exaggeratiou In their gestures
! and mannerism IN their bearing. l left
/ my box, SAYING 10 myself: II too can
do Hamlet, and l will try iti"-From Sal
vinfs Autobiography, liz the Septem Der
/ Century"
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

in the old stockade. There is curio-store
worth coming far to see. kept by New
Highlander, whom Patagonian winds have
dried and shriveled till he may be said to
be regularly 'jerked." and who is the
greatest curio in the collection.
There is a news stand, too, where you
can purchase New York and London
papers not more than three months old.
nnd shops where French confectionery and
other Injuries are Tetailed q Patagonian
prices. Occasionally some Jolly yachting
party stops here on its tour around the
world, or a man-of-war cruising from
ocean to ocean, while European steamers
come every day. So these people in the
antlpodes, where the sun rises in the north
and the Fourth of july comes in mid win-
ter, can easily keep up communication
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

we're constructed above the ruins OF the
old. and the Government invited immiera-
ton to the place by making liberal grants
one "batch." bringing building TIM Der.
tools and plenty of supplies. and the traffic
OF the straits grew apace. During the war
with Peru 1883, when Chile found herself
In need OF all the soldiers she could mus
ter. the guard was Withdrawn from this
would consent to fight the Peruyians got
an honorable discharge and ticket-of-
leave and marched proudly away with his
late keepers to cut the Threats of his
neighbors. At present il is no disgrace to
be a Punta ArenIaD, though there may not
be much pleasure in it. The population of
the port is about 1000, and it is the capital
of the Nineteenth District of Chile
A more polyglot community could hardly
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
A Woman Who Dared.

A story is going the rounds about little
woman who the other night was seated at
the Ihcater behind gOrgeously dressed
beauty whose balloon sleeves completely
hid the stage from the victim in the rear
She sat first Cd one foot and then the
other, but ali in vain-not glimpse of the
play could she get.
After whispered conversation with her
husband came the tragedy.
Without word OF warning that wee bit
of woman quietly rose, gently but firmly
laid her hands upon the winged shoulders
OF her obtrusive Deighbor and pressed her
green and violet ruffles as lar down as they
would go. People who saw the operation
gasped at the transformation. The victim
easily accepted the situation and remained
in subjugation until the end of the play
Boston Herald
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

stockings would have been incompatible
with awkwardness. However, it is aston
ishing that these ladies of the olden time
could have so much enjoyed dancing when
we realize what enormous structures were
placed on their heads. Their coiffureS
resembl.d those worn during the reign of
Louis XI, and false hair was used in
abundance. If woman could not
afford two or three false braids she
concealed her poverty by wearing, a
silk or gauze turban. The wonderful
constructions of hair were supported
by wire and covered with flowers,
feathers and jewels in profusion. During
the reign of Charles X the fashionable
women wore curls and friZzes on the side
of her head, and on the top three or four
bows OF hair with braids, skillfully ar
ranged. The EairdreSsers made enormous
fortunes, but when Louis Philippe as
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
SEA-BATHING A LA MODE.
The Interior of a Lady's Bathhouse
at Long Island.


AS we all know, decorous Britishers of
both sexes refuse to frolic in the big sea
informally and in jovial fellowship as do
the unconventional American "brethren
and sisteren." Mr.. and Mrs. John Bull
or the Misses Bull have little movable
rooms, inside of which are the conven-
fences we enjoy in our seaside lighthouses.
saws Demorest for September. The rooms
are on wheels. Enter Mrs. John Bull with
a bathirg-suit and number of towels on
her arm; little pony is hitched, by primi-
tive harness, to the room, and when Mrs.
j. b. gives sign at the window OF her
queer little house the pony Is driven down
TO the beach. even out into the water as
far as he can go. is unhitched, and trotted
back to the shore. Out then, by the back
door Of her little room. comes Mrs. John
Bull, arrayed for the sea, into which she
hops and, so long as she wishes, enjoys
dip. The bath over she enters her wheeled
room, the pony is sent down and hltched
on. and the protean mermaid ,, inside IS
brought back 10 terra trma hen the
public see her again she is clothed 10 the
common garb of civilization.
Now this whole idea so pleased friend
of the Van Kortlandts, who went abroad
for the first time last summer, that on set
ting down in her Long Island home she
quite made up her mind to have bathing
machine like those at Brighton. She had
a little gable roofed box built about by S
feet and at least s feet from floor TO roof.
Outside it is painted clear sea green and
it is swung on two big black wheels.
There is a window in the roof aud door
nd pair of steps at the back.
Inside, madam's Imagination has worked
wonders that would make Mrs. John
Bull turn green with envy. The interior
Is all done in snow-Whlte enamel paint,
and one-half of the floor is pierced with
many holes, to allow of free drainage from
wet flannels. The other half of the little
room is covered with a pretty green Japan
csc rug. In one corner is a big-mouthed
Aeen silk bag lined with rubber. Into
this the wet bathing-togs are tossed out of
the way. There are large bevel-edged
mirrors let into either side of The room,
and below one iuts out toilet-shelf, on
which is every appliance. There are pegs
tor towels and the bathrobe, and fixed in
one corner Is a little square seat that when
turned up reveals locker where clean
towels, soap, perfnmery, ETC., are slowed.
Raff1es of white muslin trimmed with lace
ana narrow green ribbons decorate every
available space. When the mistress steps
out of this bathing machine her maid dries
and airs it. then tits securely locked and
wheeled high and dry behind the humble
bathhouse of We vulgar American.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

with the rest of the world. But oh! the
loneliness of 1t! 1t is 1000 miles between
the southernmost town on the west coast
of South America and The southernmOst
town on the eastern, and Punta Arenas
lies midway between them. Only Oh
the Australian coast could one find
a settlement so completely isolated. The
nearest civilized neighhors are the British
COLONIES on the Falkland Islands, where,
in spite of tie inhospitable soil and ell
mate, numbers of our thrifty cousins ire
doing we'll at sheep farming; but as 700
miles of the stOrmiest water Cd The face OF
the earth intervenes, communication is
not frequent. The emotions that come to
you here, with the contemplation that YOU
are as far from anywhere as it is possible
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
VISITING THE PATAGONIANS.
The Strange People Who Live in the Southernmost
Town of the World

Wishing to see something of the people
whom history ard tradition have reported
as giants we sailed from Buenos Ayres
down into the Straits of Magslhaens lang
licized Magellsn) to Punta Arenas. the
southernmost city on the face of the earth.
the only town within the region that once
was Patagonia. How does it look, this
home Of the sea lion, the penguin and the
guanaco, where cold and storm and snow
prevail the long years through? Well,
there Is sandy beach. and behind it some
low hills blackened with charred timbers,
backed by a mountain range which, though
hardly 1000 feet high, is buried in perpet-
ual snow. Tires or four hundred houses
are set in the mud and sIush along the
oeach, and on the rising ground beyond
1t wooden structures, one-storied and
mostly implanted, arranged in irregular
rows so as to form something like streets
and miserable attempt at plaza. Among
the buildings is Custom-house. fort, a
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

BY certain characteristics we recognize
an epoch of woman's dress. Paniers be-
long to Louis XIV, the crinoline to the sec
Ond empire. but manches a gigot. or NUT
tOnleg sleeves. take us back to the end of
the reign of Charles y, and the beginning
of that of Louis Philippe. Full sleeves,
round skirts and berthas date from 1920;
the sleeves larger and larger until fash
ionable woman could hardly pass through
an ordinary doorway. The material was
stiffened with whalebone and filled out
with down. so that the muttonleg sleeves
became monstrosities. With them were
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03
A JEWELED TURTLE.
Its Shell Is Studded With Real Dia-
mOndS.

InOHuS.
In my jourDeyings over this fair land l
have run across some very strange fads in
dulged IN by people who have plenty of
money and who have used it in the gratifi-
cation of faDcies that have not benefited
the world IN the least, writes a correspond
ent from Buffalo to the st. Louis Globe
Democrat. have met stamp-collectors and
pugdog fsnciers and men with mania for
accommodating walking-canes Once l knew
a man who mad spent hundreds OF dollars
in getting up a collection of historical hats
covering two centuries, but ieweler at
Fort Lee told me about a millionaire of
that vicinity who would certainly have the
highest pointed-crown hat in my friends
collection.
About a month ago this millionaire
walked into jewelers. place with a COM
mon land turtle or tortoise which he hal
captured in the woods near by, laid it on
the counter and gave most astounding
order. remarking, "Pll give the people
something TO talk about" And he GER
tainly did, for he ordered the shell of the
turtle to be inerusted on its outer edge
with heavy layer of gold on Etruscan
finish. In the center of its horny back he
ordered an emerald TO be placed. At vari-
Gus points in tile gold he had inserted
small but pure diamonds. A massive sill
yer chain was attached to the she'll. At
his magnificent country seat the erratic
millionaire had constructed on his lawn q
reproduction in rocks, bushes and ferns of
the spot from which the tortoise had been
taken. In this place, which the rich man
calls "turtlearmin," the highly decorated
reptile is perm tied to roam the length of
his silver chain. 1t looks as though the
financial stringency had not struck this
man of means, and his neighbors are now
waiting for him to have the house of his
cattle gold plated. his horses slsod with
silver, and diamond drops placed ia the
ears Of his fancy pigs.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1893-09-03

cended the throne, there was a modiica-
ton in hairdressing, and a corresponding
modification in the pretensons OF coiffeurs.
Queen Marie Ameiie frowned upon
bright-colored gowns and chose hers of
neutral tints or pure white. Rich TRIM
mings disappeared, and skirts were only
ornamented with two or three narrow
founces, or simple embroidery. materials
were organdie, muslins, pnlka-spottsd
gauZe and the soft challie. Gowns were
also made of rich laees, and the bridal
robe of the Duchess of Aencon, in point
Alencon. cost 80. 900 francs. At that time
women were melancholy in appearance,
because the carnation aud gayety of health
were considered suitable only for peas
ants. Men assumed Byronian airs and
tried to appear as though they were on the
border of the grave.
The Duchess of Orleans tried to change
this state of the French temperament and
laughed in public as in private. Her