The Helena independent., 1893-06-30
Influence OF CLOTHES.
The Troubles That Beset American
Diplomats in the Courts
Of Europa
Charles Sumner Was tho Real
Author OF Marcy's Famous
Circular.
America. ~ Much ~ England, May Have
Caused the Disappearance Of Ma
tional Costumes Abroad,

II seems 10 bs the mission Of England to
make the world notorious. Wherever In
Asia OF Europe her nfuencs 10 at all strong
IL operates to divsst the natives OF their
customary raiment and ft them ont with
English shirts. elastic braces. and tail
coats. You no longer sec the gondolier OF
the Grand canal in the picturesque Rarb
nemorializsd In old paintings; hs has
learned from the Iugless how trousers may
BE- held mp with ono snspendsr. how nail
may serve for the missing button, and how
effective 1t 10 10 90 about Tin shirt sleeves" !"
In the Alps, In the Tyrol. and along this
Nile, no native wears the old native Co.'S
tune, any moro than sailors wear rolling
collars aud Tapping trousers. Some of the
hotels mako ths national dtess' the livery
Of servants. which is the only sight a
stranger gets of IL on main travelled roads,
How great . help America has been In
bringing about this uniformity. it is impos.
sible TO measure. In the wearing Of vest
without COAT We surely recognize vene'-
able New England habit. But. on tho
other hand, II ID the Americans In Venice
who compel their Rondoliers to preserve the
red sash and the open breasted shirt, and
the soft wide hat Of tradition. And it 10
principally for Americans that the hotel
servants are given . different and a "for-
sign" look. Still, the conviction exists that
American ideas were tho levers that origin
ally lifted people Of the old countries ont
of their wonted ruts, and there 10 something
In our diplomatic history which seems TO
strengthen that conviction.
Twice, early in our history. did the do
partment Of state give instruction to Amer
loan diplomats a. to the dress they should
wear on occasions Of ceremony. once in
1917, whom John Quincy Adams was head Of
the department.. and again BY Secretary
Van buren,, at the beginning of Jaekson's
administration.
John Quincy Adams ordered our diplo-
matte officers to wear a uniform consisting
tons with tho artillsrist's eagle stamped
upon them (ths eagle flying with wreath
in its mouth. arsspinR lightning in ono of
Its talons). white cashmere brooches, gold
knee buckles. white silk stockings. gold OF
gilt shoe buckles, thres-cornered shapeau-
de-bras, black oockade with an eagle at
tachsd. and sword. He pointed out that
II is usual a. all European courts for the
foreign ministers to appear at court funo-
tious in uniforms more splendid with en-
broidery than at ordinary lsvees. drawing
rooms and diplomatic circles. and therefore
ON those occasions a coat similar TO the
ono described, but embroidered round the
skirts. breasts. CUTS and cape. Also there
should be white ostrich feather In the
minister's hat. the feather not standing
sreos. but sewsd around the brim. The
coats were to be thereby distinguished ~
she great and small uniform. according to
tha occasion.
Van Buren, modified the dress 10 a. to
mako it 20 black coat with gold star on
each side of the collar near its termination;
the underolothes to be black or white At
the option of the wearsr; q thrse se-cornered
chapeau- -de-bras with black cockade aud
saRle, and a steel mounted swo with
white scabbard." Van Buren's instruo-
tions wsre oareful TO say that the president
but it Is suggested as proper and con
vsnient uniform for the use of the dip!o-
matio agents of the United states residing
near foreign governments"
Some Of our older renders OF course re-
member ''Narcy's Clothes Circular" 1t is
an indispensable part of diplomatic litsra-
tule. Charles Sumner was the real author
of il, az is proved in some lately published
memoirs and letters of the statesman. He
wrote to Mr.. Story at Rome in 1853:
Il have seen something of our new presi-
dent (Pierce) and found him an agreeable
gentleman. affnble in manners and prompt
in apprehension. The orders to our dip
lomats to abandon their foreign liveries
were issued at my earnest instigntiou. l
trust you approve them. On this snbject
as on others. both the president and Mr..
Marcy listened to me with attention.
Marcy. who had never stepl ed foot on Eu-
ropean shores. naturally put great reliance
upon the opinion of an eminent senator
who had. and he accepted without hesita-
ton Summers assertion that American
dielomantists abroad appeared fantastic by
being permitted to dress in whatever RarD
they chose.
So Marcy issued an order, in 1853, that
American dlplomatists should wear the
simple oress Of the American citizen. but
adding something to the effect that dis
Of this county could be best SO we'd by
not complying. At Brussels. Turin. The
Hague aud at Paris no inconveniences
were felt, but at Berlin our minister.
Vroom. was informed by an official note
that the king would not consider an ap-
pea ance before him without costume re-
speotful." AZ Stockholm the king directed
his minister of foreign aifairs to say to our
minister that 10 gives me great p.easure At |
all times to soc Mrs. Schroeder and himself;
but tho etiquette of my house is subject to
regulations which cannot be waived for ono
in preference to another. In an audience
foi business will receive him in any d. sss
his government may prescribe, but in the
society of my family and on occasions of
court NO one can be received but in court
dress in confo. nifty with established GUS |
tom. / cannot for q momont suppose that
any such matter can impair the excellent
friendly understanding existing between |
the Am -rican government and ourselves, |
since these regulations a. ply alike TO the |
representatives of all governments"
Buchanan had a deal of annoyance In |
London, for he refused to wear either GOLD |
lace or embroidery TO royal functions. |
Buchanan feared at that time that from
present appearances ho woald be placed |
socially in coventry on this question of |
dress" He did not attend the ceremony of
che opening of parliament by the queen. |
because of the unsettled question, and the |
newspapers made . sensation of his alb |
sonce. Somebody in London suggested
that he wear the dress worn by Washing
ton. but. after critically examining Stuart's
portrait "at the house Of a friend, !" ho ds- |
cided that. should he do SO. he would ron.
der himself "a subject OF ridicule for lifc."
He had meanwhile been officially told In |
London that no ono could be admit !
into the diplomatic tribune. or into the
body of the house. but in full court Dress"
little while after the queen held tho first
lsvee Of the season. and buchanan signi- |
fed to the master Of CO smbnies that he !
should present. himself ''in the kind of dress |
that he always wore. with the addition of |
pain dress sword" In another long note |
30 ths department. of state on this subject. |
he said that. ''in the matter OF the sword"
he had yielded, without reluctance. to the
earnest suggestion of a high ofiioinl charno-
ter" He went in "a black coat. white |
Wnistcoat and cHRvut, and black pantaloons |