New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1893-06-18
A DEAD MANS PIE.
SEEKING FOOD In A YUCATAN WILDER
NESS

| reproduced at the Worlds Fair, many questions
are asked about that land of hammocks and
guitars, particularly concerning life among those
deserted buildings that were antiquities long be-
| fore the Spaniards set foot on this side Of the
globe.
| The old city Of Chchen attracted us more than
| any other spot there was excitement about it,
because it was a dangerous place. We were the
first white people TO venture that Indian terri
| tory in ten years, and our arrival had to bury
the bones, long before cleaned by buzzards and
| ants. of the Inflated residents of plantation;
they had been massacred by Indians in 1863
| We and our men, with leopards, snakes and
other creatures had the ruins to ourselves though
! hamlets were hid here and there in the dense
forest that surrounded us to distance of several
miles. One modern structure was visible, an old
church four miles off, all that left Of pretty
village, destroyed by Indians, who at the same
time killed the inhabitants. The floor OF the
church was converted into great tomb, wherein
the butchered villagers were laid to rest; then
Piste. sacked and burned was abandoned. After
few years the church was utilized as barracks
for about thirty men, forming one of the military
outposts. The ruins were the wrong side Of
that church, and thus we were liable at any mo-
ment to disagreeable surprise in the shape Of
Indians who would give no quarter. This made
it necessary for us to go armed and keep sharp
lookout. For provisions we depended largely on
our rifles. What best liked to bag was the
wild turkey, the gorgeous meeagris ocellata. We
have skinned more than one that weighed full
fifteen pounds. The flesh is white and tender,
better favored than that of the domestic turkey,
while it's beautiful plumlge is eXqusitely fine in
quality and very brilliant; rich bronze and dark
blue are the predominatng tints.
We were too busy taking photos and measure
ments Of the old palaces to spend much time in
hunting so when deer and turkey persistently
kept out of sight tightened our waist belts and
Toasted on dry Mexican tortillas. These corn
cakes were made in distant Village once in eight
DAYS Toward the end of the week they became
| widowed, but we gave them rub and toasted
them at our campfire.
One afternoon, having come to the conclusion
that it was absolutely necessary to look up some
food, we decided to devote a couple of hours to
the deer. We invited our men to do The same.
or to rest if they preferred it. They had had no
meat for several days. but true to their INDECENT
nature decided Tot to hunt. Only one youth went
with US. In the forest we followed deer tracks
for long distance. DR.. lie PongeOn led the way
in the direction of a mound that he wished to exc
anime; followed and behind me came the Indian.
1t was about o'clock when the creatures of the
forest take their siesta. Profound silence reigns
from midday till o'clock, while at all other times
there is a continual confusion Of sound, the voices
Of countless beings of every conceivable form and
color. Nor did We disturb the stiffness, knowing
that whisper would brighten away any live
dinner. After long tramp We came to q halt. I
stood before a lofty tree admiring toadstool of
extraordinary size and loudly lamenting that it
not wholesome mushroom. Suddenly the
Indian shouted, Ken colel." which means Go
away, lady, Surprising that he imagined I was
going to devonr the plant then and there, stepped
back TO reasslre him. That fellows face was
then sight to see! The dark skin
actually turned pale and the eyes
bulged. The boy was backing away from me
and shouting, "Tzab can:' rattlesnake).
Not knowing that word l stood still, Won
dering. My husband meanwhile saw the cause Of
alarm, and called me toward him. The snake
was coiled, forming quite pile, just by ito
dwelling place, hole in the earth. lie was
probably di9esting rabbit and perhaps dream
ing pleasantly Of his friend the armadillo these
two creatures live together on good terms. when
my exclamation about the toadstool disturbed
him. No snake can spring when coed. 1t must
first let itself out in a kind OF zigzag, but this
movement is so swift that it is not generally OBJ
served IN stepping back TO relieve the Indians
mind, had come within a few inches Of the coil,
arousing the creature which then stretched out
its head jaws distended, and bright red tongue
licking the air Without moving, the snake
could have bitten me dozen times, had it been
spiteful II still remained coiled moving its head
back and forth, mouth wide open. With re-
volver DIR. L~ PlOngeon tried to fire a bullet, at
close range, down its throat, but the cartridge
failed TO explode Retreating step. he again set
the trigger The snake now angry, its move
Wnrp nd fIa hull ot 80
entering the mouth, penetrated the side of tho
neck. Rapidly the beast uncoiled and began
sliding into the hole.
This would never do, while our chance Of
better game was poor. Here was meal nearly
seven feet long-we could have a snake stew.
Lofty trees around us. the ground carpeted with
leaves, nut not stick or twg within reach to
break the spine OF our glistening prize and check
It's downward career. ramrod would serve
Just as we got one uIscrewed from rife the
last rattle that terminated that anticipated sl,ppar
vanished in the bowels Of the earth I-nfor
tunately, one cannot become accustomed 10 hum
ger, and my JOY at having escaped the snake WAS
not more pronounced than my regret at its escape
from us.
Qui doris. dimes" The who sleeps. eats). Uav.
ing no supper. we early took possession of our
hammocks. Two OF men had zone 10 a ham.
let few miles of, where they had fair chance
of hearty meal, it being All Saints Day. when
the "hanal piXan' or food for the souls In
cooked in large quantities. This is a pie whose
crust is made Of corn, the interior consisting Of
chicken; pork is sometimes substituted Thu
pies are wrapped in banana leaf and cooked be
tween heated stones in hole in the ground
At , in the morning somebody wanted 70 reach
us, and our sentinel objected. We always slept
dressed ready for sudden attack of Indians.
Jumping up, We found one of our men, just back
from the hamlet. Il take the liberty said he,
of coming TO offer you dead mans pie
Down we sat on an empty box, and by the licht
of tallow dip unwrapped the treasure from its
banana leaf while the man told us how be had
obtained it. We wanted 10 bring Won some