The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1893-09-26
HERE, CaAPPIBS
Dame Fashion Has Decreed
What Men Shall Wear
This Winter.
PLAIN OF FINISH, GRACEFUL IN PORN
The Prospects are That The Stern
Sex Will DO Better Dressed
Than Ever Before.


ing for men been SO quiet In material and
so plain OF finish. aud at the same time
SO graceful ia form and proportion aud
80 elegant in every way as they will be
for the incoming season. The meu OF
this country. for several months to CONS.
will be better dressed than they ever were
before. Although there viii be some
Americans who will faia disdain for
American IDEAS and parade on their
backs with beaming satisfaction the
noustrosities OF English tailoring, they
will proclaim By their vicious choice
q lack OF artistic taste aud u perverted
Judgment. Judging by her works.
Dame Fashion Is, indeed. a privi-
legged individual. She Gnu do no wrong.
but, like C43ar's wife. Is above re-
proach. Sometimes her fDss dtctt Is 80
contrary 10 our w ideas or peauly pro-
priety and eternal fitness of things, that
we stand aghHst, then protest In right
eous indignation against her senseless,
arbitrary rule. aud then embrace her
with all her eccentricit.es, wondering all
the tint how We ever managed III nuv
sort or comfort before We submitted to
her decree. Not many seasons z We wore
b0btailed, uoubie breasted ffocks aud
liked them, but the tiekle dame, with no
soft prelude of gentle hints, turned up
her ~olfactory organ OF u sudden, shifted At
them contemptuously and hhugntily Is
sued ar edicI TO lengthen them at once
and very much. OF course We objected
~strenuously, but It ayailed us nothing. We
vowed we would never wear anything so
ridiculous, aud we made up our minds
to ridicule those VINO did In the end, how
ever. we capituiased aud whore ouce our
coat tails tapped above our knees they
now spread aud futter in ample fuilness
in the vicinity OF q ankles Last
spring everything was blue. and mmedi-
ateIy old and young, blonde aud bru-
nette, grave aud gay, lsnorant an
learned, wise and foolish, Americ IN aud
Angl9maniac, swore by blue. wore blue
ana, at times. felt blue. But now the
naughty dame frowEs on blue, which
color. possibly from fright. turns ashy
hued aud finally gray. SO Oxford u
Cambridge graYs will be tbs shades most
worn this winter.
THE CHANGE IN o~vERCoATs.
In overcoats the caanges are not so
great, and yet the difference between
last years Cut will be Marked enough TO
be Noticed. The Cnestereeid or fly front
oversack still retains its nigh degree of
popularity. This coat is what is COM
monty known IS q sipgle breasted chin
chiiia. with concealed buttons. Tn
fashionable material is not chinchiila,
OA6 ACl6CY VA t6NG Va NJ
lather long, ~ inches, slightly define
The form, though moderately lose,
with the back whole and tue side seams
open for ten inches. This lapeis and
collar at the notch will be two inches
wide, and i've buttons will serve 10 Keep
it closed. The edges will be siugle
stitched; all the pockets will have flaps,
10 go in or out; the collar Will be OF vel
vet; the silk will extend to the edge auu
the sleeves Will be finished with a deep
vent, with or without buttons. and with
out soItom stitching.
II NEW ULSTER.
The overcoat that will next follow the
Chesterfield in popularity Is the new
ulster, ~variously known as the kennel,
the paddock and The racing coat. It Is
comparatively a new creation aud is very
swell, CLOSE lifting aud long. Iu effect lG
is practically d long surtout or new
ket, but in fact lC Is q close fitting sack.
Il will be made from V~snetians, covert
coatings and light colored, smooth faced
fabrics aud will average fifty inches III
length, with a waist length OF ninetseu
anu one-haif inches. The BACK viii be
cut whole and will make up at the hip
buttons to u width of from six TO six and
one'half inches. The skirts will open ou
the right SIDE aud will fall with ~ aqua
dance of drapery. The fronts will usually
be flushed with u fly, with q Moderate
length of roll auu with lapelS Two aud
one quarter and the collar three incnes
wide-but occasionally they will be
heavily double breasted. The collar and
cuffs. the latter three aad oHr-halr to
four inches deep. may bs of velvet, or of
The same material as Iiis rest of the coat.
but velvet will find preference. IN
edges will be double stitched and the
AUS strapped aud stitched to match.
hut Single stitching will be preferred by
some. When the seams Will be pressed
open and stitched to correspond on each
side or TUNED aud single stitched. The
hip pockets will be crescent shaped aud
have flaps of nipple proportions; bat the
breast pockets Will be straight with a
flap 10 &c in or out. =
Box o~vERCoAT.
The box overcUat viii be as well liked
and q much worn as iG WIS last year: aud.
excepting tue length. which will be
louger, the material. cut aud flash wilt
be the same. 1t will averaze III ieagtn
from forty six to forty eight inches. will
hang straight aud very full from the
shoulders and will have a whole back,
very wide, with the side seams deeply
vented TO enable the weurer TO sit with
out spreading the fronts OBJECTIONABLE.
The fronts will be heavily double breast
ed. with we'll peaked Ispsls three and one
half to four Inches wide and the collar.
which will be of velvet, will be- a trIfe
narrower and have corners rounded
away, also. The sleeves Will be quite
large and will ave full cuffs, but not of
velyet. The edges will be double
stitched from five eighths to three quar-
ter inches wide. The seams will be
Tapped or strapped and stitched to match,
and all the POCKETS viii have wide flaps
TO go in or cut.
The covert cont will fail to connect
during the coming season with anything
but n sack III length. aud viii. therefore,
be pltasingly conspicuous BY its absence.
Il INVERNESS.
The Inverness has increased in favor,
ond it will be seldom, indeed. that any
othxr style of garment will be worn dur
jug the current season over an evening
dress suit. Although the Spanish cloak
is rapidly becoming Americapized. it
will be some time before il will superceAe
the inverness. This coat will be mAds
from various materials. snooGhfaced or
ronRh aid soft, but chiefly, perhaps.
from frosted beavers, aid viii generally
be black or dark Ill effect. or course it
will be very loose, especially in the back,
which should hang from the shoulders
with more fulipess and drapery thar i5
~caIeless first cousin. The box coat. 1t
will be finished ia front with a fv aud
will either close 10 the throat with a
Prussisn collar or roll AS u Chesterfield,
but the Prussian collar is the newer
STYLE aBd will be the more favored. The
collar will be of velvet and of ampI.
width, aud the cape will extend TO the
end OF the collar and cover all but ABOUT
one inch of the sleeves of The undercoat.
The lergth will raDge, for a man of
average height, from "A TO 48 inches; the
edges will be single stitched and the