The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1893-06-15
UNCLE SAM AS A TAILOR.

SAFE OF army and Navy Suits.
Uncle Sam takes paternal interest
in his soldier boys and clothes them in
the warmest and soundest fla brics at a
price which never goes above cost.
There are three clothing supply depots
connected with the army, one of them
in low, square building behind the
Palace hotel on New Montgomery
street, San Francisco. This establish
ment, among its many functions,
makes uniforms and Undertaking for
enlisted men. Upon this kind of work
an average of two hundred and fifty
persons are employed for eight months
of the year. Most of the sewing women
pre widows of soldiers. Capt c. w.
Williams has charge of the clothing
and equipage branch of the depot and
makes the inspections of work and
material. A piece of kersey must
he sound in every fiber or it
will not pass the rigid tests.
The cloth is first weighed to see if it
meets government requirements. Then
it is run over reel and examined from
the diverse side with strong light in
front If a single hole Or flaw is seen
the piece is disqualified. A careful
measurement of the material follows,
and then the pulling test is made. This
consists IN a stretching process in a ma
chine with a dial. Blouse flannel to be
passed must stand a pull of twenty
three pounds to the inch If it gives
way, even to the extent of a thread, the
dial pointer tells the story. A scorch-
ing process is used to develop the
threads in the texture and ascertain
their number. To pass examination
each piece Of cloth must have sixty
threads to the inch to the warp and
hfty-two to the filling. A piece of
cloth is passed back and forth before
horizontal gas jet and the nap burned
Off. Then, with a needle, the crisp
fbers are separated and counted.
To find out whether ''all wool" goods
have cotton in them a bath has been
devised which eats the wool and leaves
the cotton in evidence. The fxity of
the colors is tested by acids. When the
material is pronounced sound and in
conformity with the regulations it goes
to the cutter, tailor and sewing woman.
THE la Dor of each is examined almost
microscopically and woe to the person
who has botched task The rule that
when the clothing is issued it must be
rs near perfection in quality, make, col
Or and staying power as anything that
Weavers, tailors and dyers can create
admits of no delinquencies.
An outfit of clothes tested and made
In this way would command premium
among men who willingly pay from $50
to $40 a suit for their apparel. Yet the
total cost of the clothing to the gov
ernment and so its customer, the enlist
ed man, is as follows:
Fine flannel blouse, non-commis-
stoned officer, Si.S5; trousers, S39S; to-
tai. 1851.
White duck blouse, S1.21; trousers,
tl.07; total. S2.2S-
Canvas blanket-lined overcoat. equal
to buffalo ulster in warmth. and inn
penetra bic to the wind and rain $1,000
Full dress uniform coat noncommis-
Stoned officer, best quality kersey,
SS a; trousers, 81. 9S: total. S12.42
kersey overcoat. with cape, lined
with fine warm flannel, S11.62.
Corresponding prices obtain in other
items of military supply. Uncle Sam,
after buying his material of the manu-
facturers and paying the regular price
for making it up. sells the product at
cost. Officers uniforms are not made
at the depots, but kersey may be
bought for them there at ST. so ward.
Enough stock is kept on hand for !. 500
men, and ii includes everything a sol
dier needs from cork helmet to an I'M
dersnirt. Twelve sizes of trousers are
always in stock and six sizes of uniform
roats. In such an assortment a
recruit usually finds a good fit,
though if he happens to be of uncom-
mon dimensions he is measured and his
uniform is made to order. kersey cloth
is about of the quality that goes into
everyday business suits. 1t has
rougher nap than English dress goods,
but it is used in the uniforms of army
officers. class which is ha bitually we'll
dressed. Every officer is required to
possess two full suits. one for smart
occasions and another for fatigue duty.
The enlisted man is similarly supplied.
except that he also has a working suit
of brown canvas. In severe climates
extra clothing, as well as fur hats and
mittens. is issued. The navy has a
manufacturing and supply depot at
Brooklyn, hut every ship that goes on
cruise takes a stock of cloth and trim
mings and complement of tailors.
Many seamen, particularly those of the
old school, make their own uniforms
and tarpaulin hats, drawing the mate
rial at cost price from the ships stores.
This item of cost is figured down at the
supply depot, and is known to cent
San Francisco Chronicle.