The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1893-11-16

LhtuST WAYS FOR MAKING NEWEST GOWNS
tlsss 10 sCagleying i. is so great and varied
The ca ton and wool mixtures are never
WaRth i'uyiug, and y,it they look almost as
veil m the all wo,A goods while on the
esrnte.l But befolp the garment is fairly
made Il begins to sh l'F its poor quality.
The III wool dress goods range from 50
cents &c 50 per yard. The cotton and wool
sail frqlA 10 cents to. cents, but never run
~ wide az, the all WI |. The same amount
Of labos is required 1, one as the other, and
the saTre quantity Of lining and more trim
ming, 60 THAT consI ring the difference in
the wearing gualit1 lit is always cheaper
to buy the best. n ress of solid color or
modest mixture in q tviot or some other of
the nice woods is alV Us ladylike and gen.
teel and can be clea ed and made over in
definitely. The cot n and wool sees no
resurrection.
There are silk AM wool mixtures, and
these combine with zach other to mutual
advantage These rtiXtures are known as
silk warp henriettes, fayettas and one
grade of brocaded wool. The first two
named are in some respects handsomer
than any silk, notably for mourning or ele-
CANT church or rich visiting gowns and the
latter is much liked for plain reception
dresses for elderly ladies who do not wish
to wear colors or bright silks and who yet
want something n little more dressy than
plain surfaced goods. But the brocade is
not as durable as the plain silk warp, which
is stronger and more lasting than any other
material made. 1t retains it's beauty to the
last thread. 1t can be taken apart and
washed like piece of calico and ironed on
the wrong side, and it is Il new gown again
when remade. 1t is the one ideal hand
some fabric for dressy black gown. The
fayetta is more like japanese Grape, while
the henriette has a cashmere finish. The
fsyetta is very pretty for young people and
can be had in all colors, but the silk warp
henriette comes only in black, white and
gray They are half wool and half silk.
The silk and linen mixtures form the
lnah poplins and many of the corded silks,
nA / think most Of the bengalines. The
thl tx thread is linen, and the silk is woven
over it. 1t makes II rich. fabric, but must
moi be wet, or it will shrink almost out of
sight.
believe there is a line of decorative silks
VIII ire silk is mingled with sea island cot
ton. but know OF no dress goods of those
tive textiles. The price of silk has so dim
iuHhed that it would not pay to buy any
bus pure silks when II silk gown is desired.
1the silks for this season are nearly all in
small figures, stripes or plain. The bro
cat1es are very beautiful, showing small
bub perfect patterns. The grounds to near
ly NIL the silks have changeable or MORE
efrt beneath tb z pattern, and the output
fairly blahes with brilliant color, of which
the royal puppies, deep blues and greens
are the faYorites The colors are, however,
MOO confined to them, but we find any
amount Of broViIs all in the tobacco shades.
The old zeal brown shade is now called
nicotine" The yellows are those found
in spots en- fuding tobacco leaves. The
h.yadere stripes are being bought so rapid
lg that it IL difficult, / was told, to keep up
the stock. These are wide or narrow black
stripes on pure white ground, and the
Uhtte ground is MORE in rich waves.
One exec edingly effective design of this
ssyls which was shown to me had thick
mUiro ground of mat white, brocaded with
aatia oval rings, and beneath these rings
wS Jet black stripe which had the ap-
Isnpance OF narrow velvet ribbon woven in
sad out. There were also two favOrites in
satin duchess In silver gray, one with fine
hsslrsn bsnnch pattern inwoven, and be