The Progress., 1893-11-25
FASHIONS FANCIES.
LATEST GOWNS FOR LOVELY
WOMAN'S WEAR.
Inc Happy Flight ~ Woman from
'rinoline, Chignon and Congress
Ssiters-Dainty Costumes for Fall
and Winter We
New York Letter I

lNcW York Letter I
There are gloomy fashion bopies.
just as there are pc ms. e propne,S
OF other evils, who threaten II, with ,
the r. 'vival of or mol .nes and ch gnous |
ana congress CATERS aud all the hor- /
rors of the dress inferno. But the fall !
gown has at last mater allied, and il /
s by no means the caricature of the |
deal that we have been led to expect. |
III is true that in its c 'ncept on one /
may trace the familiar features of |
dead ard gone modes, but the be .in- !
ming of the century idea evolutionized
and revolutionized in accordance with |
| the end of the century enlight .nment !
| is thing of ace rate values and svm-
metrical or portions. Fashion i. ore
wary and or fly than IN days of yore
/ She comm. Is some follieS, but she is
quick 10 retrieve them.
There is much Ia X Of the good old
times and their simplicity. but we do
not go out in muslin gowns and fur
mutts in midwinter, nor do we wear
satin slippers when we take ur walks
abroad. But To return to our muttons,
the fall gown. II is at once historical
and original, smartly masculire yet
essentially feminine. II is cosmopoli-
tan, and seeks its models in the
courtier's coat or the peasants bodice.
There is a Russian splendor of color,
a Spanish picturesqueness of outline,
a French fascination of mystery in de-
sign. 1t unites with charming dis
regard for nachronism the attire of
widely separated periods and antago-
nistic sovereigns, all in 4 single
costume. The first thing you notice
about the new gown is that it has an
] IL. 4 4 IL.
overskIrt, no sham affair of founces
or undulating lines of vandyked
hounces Tuis overskrt is of two
kinds, one of which falls in points
around the b tom of the skirt
single point in front and
one on each side of the back.
The other is cut in redingote
fashion, opening in front to show the
skirt beneath. Neither OF the skirts
is draped, but fits smoothly about the
hi 5 and falls in straight lines TO the
foot Into what this germ of an over
skirt may develop before the season
closes what airs and graces and eX-
travaganceS IL NAV take on, is not
easy to determine from its present
modest appearance, which 5 illus
trated from a freshly imported gown
Of green cloth, the overskirt edged
with a row of jet and gold gimp. with
drops of jet and gold falling over
b ack satin skirt. The cam ess waist
has plated and pointed bertha of
satin edged with gimp, and narrow
black satin is tied around the waist
and at the back for a belt The fall
gown, when it hasn I an uverskirt, has
skirt from four and one half yards
in width upward, fitted plainly in
front and cut SO that it falls in godet
plaits at the back, like the pipes of an
organ. only that they flow out toward
the bottom and are held in place with
straps on the under side. All
manner of braid gallon and inser-
tions enter into the decorations of
this skirt, fiat trimmings being pre-
fe, red to fiouncings. Wool gowns are
cut with three breadihs in the skirt,
and those of silk or satin have some
times as many as six good breadths
And with the single is worn almost IN
yariably a basque, either frilled or
plated or plain. The basque in most
cases falls from a belt, and in some
hand, ONE gowns designed for both
street and ONE wear il is arranged so
that il can be worn in the street and
laid aside in the house. However,
this basque very frequently is made
strikingly ornamental, as in the Paris
visiting gown shown in the illustra-
ton. The design is entirely novel and
original, and may be looked upon as a
type of the fashions f'r the forthcom-
ing seasrn. The material is mush-
room-colored vslvet handsomely en-
broidered with black velvet and silk.
The full sleeves, cut in the new fash
ion, whi, h unfortunately requires
more material than he old, but droop
more toward the elbow, are of black
velvet, and the very full basque, as
well as the flounce at the foot OF the
skirt, are also of velvet The s&irt oi
the gown has 40 stiffening, but is
lined throughout with a kind OF soft
canvas, which adds to the richness OF
the material and gives graceful
sweep to the SIX TT.
A. Basques on palmer gowns are
corded to the bodice or joined be,
meath the belt, and may be plated
slightly over the hips or cut with a
r.u, ding skirt The gown shown as
model is of chestnut-"t own dta. onair
with broad revers of black moire satin
opening over a full silk vet of ere. m
white satin. The circular sleeve caps