Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1893-10-12
SLEEVE DIAGRAMS.

ing part does not count in the measure for
that is arbitrary Sometimes it is very
high and at other times not more than to
give the necessary fullness to make it set
well.
The under portion should be three inches
narrower than the outside. The measure
for width should be taken around the wrist
and at the top just where the seams join.
As it is quite little trouble to measure
and diagram for new pattern every time,
the clever dressmaker will draft one or two
good sleeve models-for long, slim arm and
for short, plump one-apd keep them al
ways ready where by minutes work in
measuring for width and length any lady
can be fitted with sleeve.
The next thing is to cut for balloon sleeve,
which is now i'll its various notifications
the favorite This can be easily done by
following he main features of the diagram.
The puff can be as full or scant Us the wcarer
desires, and it is usually cut on the cross Of
the goods, deep enough to reach the elbow,
and is gathered where the marks are 1t
can be shrred at the top and the fullness
thereby turned downward, or it can be cut
trife higher and gathered in with the
lining 1t is to be basted on the lining and
scwed and afterward drawn upward and
gathered and basted at the top of the sleeve.
The front sleeve seam can then be sewcd and
the sleeve finished Off. The outer seam
should have been sewed before. The lower
arm portion should have had the outside
cut and firmly basted to the lining and
sewed up with the whole. The wrists are
now finished by 4 narrow piping and are
faced with silk, and the best dressmakers
: sprinkle little violet or orris powder along
in the seam. Where the wrists are to flare
n trine and with all fine dresses an inter-
lining of wigan is made at the wrists to keep
them smooth
The puff may be lengt hcncd from two to
four inches and shirred directly in The mid
die, while the rest is treated rs for single
puff, or it can be held in by ribbon band.
All the variations are suggested by the fash
Jon publications, and the dressmaker can
develop them from the foundation model.
The leg of mutton sleeve being Just now
very fashionable and very difficult to make,
a careful diagram is given, which any lady
can follow who will draft the diagram on
scale of an inch to one-eighth Of an inch.
This is a very stylish sleeve and is Well
adapted to all materials The sleeve joins
only on one side, and all the fullness comes
on the upper part. The lining to this-if
lining is used-is cut just like the outside
and should be of light texture
The sleeves should be cut so that the line
marked straight is so with the thread Ii
| the goods of which the sleeves are made is
narrow, the seam must be made on the
| cross, as the diagonal line must be on the
| true bias When cut and basted carefully
| the plats should be laid in as marked and
| firmly fastened and the two places marked
! G brought together, so that i comes over
the three plats and the two AS meet Then
the seam should be basged and sewed, when
| the result will be II real leg Of mutton
| sleeve, like the diagram, and the plain part
| on the top allows for IA bertha or bretele
without throwing it out of shape
The sleeves to evening dresses are all
modified balloon shape, but short coming
| in some cases quite to the elbow, but more
! often finished OIL about four inches from the
! scGm with Z band over which the puff falls.
The sleeve should be rounded up - inches
toward the inside to permit the pull TO fall
| outward well.
To sew the seams in sleeves both edges
should be neatly trimmed and overcast and
thcseams stitched from the bot ON upward.
The seams should then he opened, and if
wooden slightly moiStcncd and pressed over
u sleeve board.
70 sew the sleeve into the arm size re.
uuircs care. There is no fixed rule, as each
person has different way of carving the
arm, which brings the seam into different
position, aud where it is feasible 10 have
the person cry the sleeves on and pin he
seams into The right position it is best to
! do 20. But the general rule to follow is to
have the back seam in the sleeve placed
| half way between the back side form and
the shoulde. seam and the front one in 1. d j.
agonal line me inch back Of the dart.
The shoulder seam should be turned for
ward and the sleeve basted in, beginning at
the back and going down under the arm
first, which brings whatever tulncss there is
easily TO the top. If it is thin goods. mar
row tape can he seWed in with the seam, the
edge then trimmed and closely overcast,
but the sleeve seam should not he pressed.
OLIVE HARPER.