The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1893-11-18

Norwegian Fi0rds Of Trondhjem,
Gefranger, Sogne and Hardanger-
Splendid Water Ways in Place Of
/ Roads-Slumberous Valleys, Highest
Waterfalls, Mightiest Chasms and
Most Tremendous Glacier Fields,
Forming Continuous Scenes OF Gran
deur-Interesting Hardanger Peas
antry.
LONDON, Nov. 6, 1S93.-Norway is
so cut and haggled by the numerous
fords or sea-arms which often pene-
trate nearly to her eastern boundary,
that it might perhaps be truthfully
said her thoroughfares are mainly by
water and that her many and ire
mendous stone roads of the noun
tains and valleys are after all merely
feeders to her silent and mighty wa
ter ways.
One could truly see most of Nor
way without ever leaving a steamers
deck. By keeping to the routes es-
tablished from cities through the
larger fiords and their almost count
less arms and branches, and never
leaving them on either hand more
than a half-score miles, every prin-
cipal point of scenic interest could
be gained And if one should set
out upon Gland journey from
Stavanger, on the southwestern coast
to Trondhjem, midway to the Lotto
den Islands, it is likely that nearly
one half of this distance Of from
three to four hundred miles would
still necessarily be traversed in the
countless row-boats { roe baade) and
little steamers of the fiords.
These fiords are therefore almost
first in combined attractiveness to
the traveller. They possess three
distinct phases of interest They
are the chief national high ways; the
greatest possible diversity in peasant
and village life is found upon their
shores and in the adjacent valleys;
and with few exceptions, as with the
gacier-fields and upper waterfalls,
crags and dales of the fiercely -des-
olate fields or mountain reaches, they
certainly provided culminations and
combinations of the most impressive
scenery to be found in Norway.
OF late years Norway has almost
outrivaled Switzerland as resort
for indefatigable lovers of the sub
lime in natures aspects. This is
largely because of this very com
mingling of the Alpine, the marine
and the human elements. In our
own amazing Yosemite there are i'm
mensity, sublimity, and Silence
that is appalling. Here are all these
in infinite variety and expression
endless sea reach, measureless water
depths, sheer walls from 1000 to
1000 feet in height, majestic snow
clad peaks twice this altitude, ire
mendous torrents and waterfalls
thousands of feet from leap to pool,
glacler-fields hundreds of square
miles in area-and, toning and sof-
tening all from an endless panorama
of sublimlty unbearable, that tender
threading of human color, in never
failing sight of valley or eerie nests
of love and effort where hardy, hon
est yeomen dwell.
The most noted of these Norwe-
gian fiords are the Hardanger, the
Sogne, the Trondhjem and the
Geiranger. From the first three ex-
tend more than a score of lesser
fiords. Most of these are marvels
of beauty and grandeur as individ
ual types. All are mountain walled
and nearly land locked. Their pro-
lection by the outer skerries and
islets and the unceasing tremendous
counter force of mountain torrents
from the ice-fields, prevent tidal
rise of their natural surfaces of more
than three feet OF the four named,
the Geiranger is the narrowest, the
Hardanger the most beautiful, the
Trondhjem the most interestingly
diversified, and the Sogne and it's
divergent arms the longest and most
savage and often appalling in its
grandeur.
Through its accessibility from Ber-
gen the Hardanger ford is likely to
be the first Norwegian ford seen by
the tourist. 1t is about seventy
miles in length. Two classes of
steamers ply upon it, as well as upon
the other fiords named, the swift,
capacious and elegant mail steamers
which touch at few landings, called
stations" and the local passenger
and freight boats which take no
head of time, even from its loss
The latter should always be chosen.
They are very comfortable, scrupu-
lousy clean, and the incidents of the
voyage are more varied and charm
ing. Besides, the magnificent scenery
of the fords is thus more leisurely
enjoyed.
More than a hundred calls for
passengers or freight are made on
the voyage to Odde at the head of
the ford. This brings you in closer
contact with the life along its num-
berless valley stations; and along
the Hardanger ford this is OF much
account, as the peasantry of the
Hardanger district are perhaps the
most characteristic in dress and Gus
toms yet remaining in Norway. The
human interest along the Hardanger
is continuous. Groups of the peas
antry. especially where setting out
for or returning from funerals. we'd
dings or summer time festivities are
always as picturesque as may be
seen in Brittany or Normandy. The
men are all clad in dark garments
and the women are gay with CLINT
and color. The Hardanger female
costume in the field often consists of
one garment displaying the outlines
of the form with considerable free.
dom, though there will always be
bit of color in kerchief about the
neck or head. But when these Hard
anger matrons and lasses bedeck
themselves for sad or merry occa-
sions there are certain old and gaud
lily painted pine chests in every
household to be safely drawn upon