The morning call., 1893-10-22
BUILDING LINES OF A CATBOAT.

The gunTale can now be marked off.
This Is usually done by attaching light
batten to the frames. the edge passing
through the proper points marked on stem.
stern and dead-dat frame. The gun vale
should be fitted to the frames al depth
below the gunwale line equal to the depth
of the deck beams. In putting in the cen
terboard we'll insert the head pieces INTO
the ends of the slot and plumb them eX-
actly perpendicular. Fasten them strongly.
In panking up the sides of the we'll use
broad plaDks; the fewer seams there are
to calk the better. Now the deck beams
of the forward half of the boat must be
put in. The beams rest on the shelf and
are secured by galvanized iron nails riv-
eted to the side of each frame close to the
gunwale line. The proper round of the
middle of the beam, or Gambler, is given by
springing it up by. shore underneath.
The beams of the strip of deck around the
cockpit are sustained at the inner ends
by light stanchions resting on the frames
Now comes the putting on of the out
side plank. The planking is put on
smooth, the edges of the streaks fitting
closely together. In order to prevent the
planks going to pieces while being fitted
necessary to render them flexible and
tough by bath of from two to three hours
in the steam box, which was described in
last Sundays issue.
The first streaks Of plank to go on are
one of the top streaks-either the gunwale
or the plank below it-and the cardboard.
If boards can be obtained TO reach the
whole length of the boat, well and good
Ordinarily, however, good many streaks
will go In two lengths. Butts of adjacent
streaks should be shifted to a distance of
three or four frame spaces from each
other; the further they are apart the bet
ter. The butts OF two streaks should not
end on ths same frame unless there are
three or four planks between. Owing to
the twisted surface of the boat and The
difference in girth at different points in Its
length, the different planks are all
broader In the middle than at the ends,
with the sole exception of the cardboard,
which is broader at the ends than in the
middle. Make the cardboard about six and
a half inches wide amldshIps and about
nine inches at the ends. Then II there are
eight other planks on each side of the boat
they would average five and threequarter
inches in width amdships, three and an
eighth inches at the bow and little more
than the latter figure ut the stern. Inc
lower planks are as broad as can De nad,
say six or eight inches, the upper ones mar
rover. The widths of all the planking can
be marked on the body plan, as laid down
on the mold loft floor, amidships and at
two or three other points, ard can then De
picked up with a pair of dlvlders ana
marked off on the frames OF the boat. Eacn
plank can then be trimmed accordingly.
Ii plank will not come into place IL can
be sprung sidewise one or two inches at
the ends; but this operation must not be
resorted to unless the plank when brought
into place paws closely its whole length TO
the plank adjacent to it. 1t is usual TO
plane each plank down for few feet at
eacn end to reduce the thickness at the end
quarter of an inch.
Beiore steaming apply each plank to the
Doat TO be sure that it will fit snugly into
Inc rabbet and lay closely to the frames.
remove any inequality in the rabbet or
frames. Then send the plank to the
steam-box. Have your hammer, nails,
Lnt,ss purI,starter, clamp screws. nipper and
rlvetlng set ready. Then bring the steamed
plank from the box. If it is to go on a
very curved surface lay it on the floor,
place your knee upon it and bend it trifle
with your hands. Then either fasten it in
place with the clamp screws or have a boy
hold one end Of it while you operate on this
other. Fasten 1t at bow or stern first with
strong nails an inch apart and work to-
ward the middle Of the boat, bringing it