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Peninsula enterprise. [volume] (Accomac, Va.) 1881-1965, 1893-05-13
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The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

of Nucline green corded silk, and has a
richly embroidered collar of crimson vel
vet, from which hangs deep ruffie of
point d. Alencon lace. With these mater
ials mingle pink in Vatican plat, a
wide ribbon belt fastened with rhine
stone buckle, and in the long ends of lace
that fall from the cape to the foot in front.
The popularity of the cape is that it does
not begin at the neck, but some inches
below. Balloon sleeves reach over the
elbow.
The other gown is a watered silk in
broad cream and green stripes, the cream
lowered with pink roses. 1t is made in
two pieces, the waist being fitted easily,
with crossed surplice front and slightly
pointed at the belt. The skirt is gathered
al the back and sewed on. 1t is garnished
with yellow satin ribbon and Alencon
lace. The ribbon, wide and folded, with
a ruffle of lace eewed to it, makes fichu
that passes round the neck and down to
the left side, where it is confined by belt
and bow of the ribbon, and hangs down
thence with the lace nearly to the foot
The sleeves, reacking over the elbow, are
| caught up with ribbons from the Shout
der and are edged with lace ruffle. A
garniture of the lace depends from under
| the arms to the bottom of the skirt and by
| its richness gives the principal character
to the gown.
! Alencon lace is now very fashionable
and will appear in inexpensive imitation
with the spring fabrics. This seems to
be reaction against the heavy laces that
have had such vogue for two seasons.
THE LATEST IN HANDKERCHIEF.
There were some handkerchiefs in this
wardrobe OF an entirely new design. In
side the hemstitches was the exquisite
drawn work, having all the effect Of pill
low lace. Sometimes it appeared as an
insertion; sometimes it filled one corner
only; in others it formed flight of birds,
and in some it took the form of the
initials and crest. Some of these hand
kerchiefs were IN pale tints of mauve,
rose, green, ecru, and these had bands OF
white woven round them and this white
worked into lace. It would be difficult to
imagine anything more delicate and re-
fined.
EXQUISITE UNDERWEAR.
Among the batiste underwear some
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

match the fieur-de-lis on the skirt. out
lined the decollete neck. Five deep ruff
hes of Bruges lace falling one over the
other formed the sleeves.
To gracefully manage the pronounced
full skirt one must be up in the old-time
courtesy. Therefore the wearer OF this
gown is under instructions. 1t is good
form to lift the skirt in front with two
hands-a pretty affectation that permits
the feet, like tiny mice, TO creep in and
out the ruffies of the dainty petticoat.
Heroic are the efforts many women are
now making to adapt themselves to a so
ciety with whose edicts they are totally
ignorant. Pride in their husbands posi-
tions spur them in their endeavor to ad-
just themselves at middle age, to the re-
quirements of fashionable official life.
Conscious of their shortcomings, they
have shrewdly put themselves in the
hands of first class modiste. Obedient
to their instructions they will doubtless
all be not only handsomely gowned, but
at ease at the inaugural ball.
The veteran, no less than the debutante,
will find herself for time uncertain in
the adjustment of the new hablliments.
More than Desarte skill is imperative for
the graceful s'sit down" and poise of a
nine yard circumference.
A GOTHAM BRIDE AT THE BALL.
AnOtner gown 10 De worn Dy young
Gotham bride is of rose colored satin and
white ivory, and pompadour lace. The
skirt is of the umbrella shape, of volum-
inous dimensions. The lower half of the
skirt is of white ivory satin latticed to the
knee with bands OF pompadour lace.
Each crossing of the lattice is held by a
bunch of tiny pink rosebud. The upper
part of the skirt is of the rose satin with
a large Empire sash of pompadour lace,
said to have once belonged to Hortense,
daughter of Empress Josephine. Folds of
rose satin form the very low sleeveless
bodice, which is tied up over the shout
ders with bands of pompadour lace.
Large weird sleeves of the lace, caught
above the elbow, complete the costume.
CAMEO SATIN INAUGURAL GOWN.
Another autocrat OF the dressmaker' s
art shows Washington gown of cameo
brocade sauna new fabric. Raised on
a pale green ground is "cameo,' a
tinted leaf. The skirt is plain. 1t meas
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

denly said Mrs. Cutting, sor 1 shall
make pot-cheese skirt, as / did with nv
mothers dress when I was q child
My other actress customers are fol-
lowing the crinoline fashion to the ex-
tent that they have their gowns short and
rather full.
''Do think that the leading actresses
will follow the fulI-skirt fad?'' continued
this stage modesto mo, l do notion
the stage, at least. By leading ac-
tresses' presume you mean Bernhardt,
Duse and Ellen Terry. These actresses
cannot adopt such style, for they do not
play society plays. Fancy Bernhardt as
Cleopatra, and fancy the crinolinel I'm
possible. And so with Signora Duse, Miss
Terry and Ada Rehan. Nor would the
former wear crinoline at any time. She is
too individual
OH the stage the last two will un-
doubleday fall in with the STYLE but on
the stage, impossible.
1 predict that all the little dramas,
the society plays, the farces and light
operas will be played by actresses dressed
la crinoline. But the style will never
touch the old plays, of course.
Are actresses fond of new styles?' On
the stage, yesl Off the stage, mol They
say make me something to wear in the
street, crinoline if it IS in style. If not
anything which is fashionable. -
So you see that to decide for or againES
the crlnoine's chances of life is as diff
cult as forecasting the weather. Doctors
disagree to so great an extent. ssYou
must cling to your draperies, 4" declares
one side. And ''yOur draperies must on
no account cling to you" declares an
other. 1t IS very perplexing.
AUGUSTA PRESCOTT
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
REIGN OF CRINOLINE.
What the leading MOdistes Say
About 1t.
Gives the Dressmakers Chance to Dis
play Costly Trimmings, But Few
Women Can Garry 1t OH Well

New YORK, Feb. 29.-Now that the
crinoline is actually upon US, New York
women are half alarmed at the prospect of
soon going hoop-skirted. 'Can it be
possible that must wear crinoline such
as my grandmother wore!' they exclaim.
And then they bow to the dictates Of fash
ion and order their gowns made little
wider.
The modists have widely divergent
views on the subject, although nearly ali
are willing to concede greater fulness of
skirt. Some are firmly against it and
others say, ''Let us have something new,
no matter what it may be-.
But let the modists speak for them
selves. Without their aid no fashion can
be fully carried out. So they certainly
deserve a hearing.
REDFERN DOES NOT FEAR CRINoLINE, HE
CAN MODIFY IT.
Redeem of Fifth avenue, Paris and
London says:
81 am ready for the crinoline whenever
my patrons desire it. My speciality is fine
fitting and an observance of all the out
fines of the body. limbs and all. l make
my dresses preserve these lines as rule,
and the crinoline is an entire departure.
l do not, personally, think it is either
pretty or graceful.
'sBut 1 am so modifying it that l give a
fulness without roundness. do not favor
the crinoline as a general feature. -
WORTH DOES NOT PROPOSE TO FALL INTO
Worth, who claims to be the first man
who ever made a real study OF woman S
dress, says:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
Lord HVoIseIey,s Danchter.

The Hon. Frances Wolseley is the only
child and heiress of the famous British
General, Lord Wolseley, and before he
would consent to accept a peerage he stip-
ulated the title should descend to his
daughter and her descendants-a favor
seldom granted to the English nobility,
though there are a great number of Scotch
and Irish peerages which descend in the
female line.
Miss Wolseley is now living w%h her
parents in the picturesque old Kilman-
ham Hospital, Dublin. She is a beauti-
full girl and strongly resembles her illus
tr1ous father. Both she and her mother
are intensely busy women, and interested
in literature and art as well as society.
Miss Wolseley's favorite amusement is
hunting, and-rather an unusual taste for
a girl-she has collected book plates since
the time she was ten years old. Her
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
THE DIFFERENT RE1GNs OF cR1NoLlNE.

less the prevailing mode of the coming
inaugural festivities will determine sub
sequent fashions.
Former inaugurations reflected the ex-
listing fashions, but circumstances force
the present TO officially accept or reject a
barbarous revival of obsolete caprices.
That it rests largely with the first lady
and the women of the cabinet whether the
graceful, picturesque, comfortable gowns
of the present shall continue, or life be
burdened with the monstrosities of 1880,
appears to be the general conclusion.
Mrs. Cleveland and women whose hus-
bands have had the slightest possibility
of cabinet honors have been besieged by
pro and anti-advocates of crinoline.
INAUGURAL GOWNS ON TWO DAYS NOTICE.
Latest spring importations arrive
closely upon the inaugural date. The I'M
certainty of the changes. has greatly re-
tarded the business of modistes and dry
goods merchants. Naturally the ex-
tremists defer ordering their gowns until
the eleventh hour. Modistes are prepar-
ing fer two-day orders-that is, to make
and ship to Washington on two days.
notice, the latest creation of foreign APP
proval.
1890 GoDEY's LADY BOOK RULES THE
BALL.
Despite the efforts of London's Anti
Crinoline league and the repeated asser-
lions of Worth that he will not use this
spring yard of steel or crinUline, there
is every indication that the inaugural bal
will be fac simile of Godey's Lady Book
of 1880.
BELLIES TO GO IN THEIR GRANDMOTHER
GOWNS.
To dispel the gloom that permeated the
outgoing administration and the shadow
that fell on the threshold of the incoming
| in the death Of that beloved social leader
Mrs. w. G. Whitney, unusual efforts are
being made to lend exceptional gayety
and splendor to the inaugural festivities
Many New York bellies will wear to the
ball their grandmothers' gowns. A pretty
debutante of the Four Hundred recently
appeared at an Assembly, in the VERT.
able robe of her grandmamma. 1t reached
the ankles and had flow of nine yards
1t was SO favorably received that the rose
bud took it to her dressmaker, who il
now duplicating it in various colors anC
| fabrics. The successful introduction O
crinoline in New York ball rooms is suffi
Gent guarantee for leading houses ant
they are rapidly filing orders for crino
line Inauguration gowns.
GOWNS FOR THE NEW WOMEN.
saw yesterday at hodse which has ,
large Washington trade, and has recently
made trousseau for one of Mrs. Cleye
lands closest friends, two gowns to b.
worn at the inaugural by women sud
denly lifted to social prominence by theil
husbands political success.
One had a pompadour skirt of maize
colored satin trimmed with five gradu.
ated founces of Bruges lace, festoonec
with Marie Louise blue feather heur-de
lis. each fieur-d e-lis fastened by a pear
bow knot. The circumference of the
skirt was nine yards. Although no hoops
will be worn it flows to a fulness of five
yards. The inner bodice was of white
satin embroidered in pearls. The outer
was maize satin covered with Bruges lace
and bertha OF graduated plumes tc
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
A SYMPOSIUM Or FASHION.
= How Women Will Dress at the
inauguration Ball.
SPRING TOILET FORECASTS.
i What Is New in NightgOwns and
Exquisite Underwear.
Bellies to Array Themselves in Their
Grandmothers' Gowns-Changes in the
Styles of Bonnets and Coiffures-
The Latest in handkerchief.

PARIS, Feb. 1O.-The trousseau OF a
young Elegante is good signboard for
fashions ahead. It has drained her pa
rents pocketbook, be they never so rich,
for no one does less than their utmost at
such a time, and represents all that is
costly; it is prepared to be worn some
space ahead of its making, and is meant
to last long time. But note especially
that it is the forecast of some leading
modiste into the future. This is the cost
lest thing about it and the most inter-
esting.
A very pretty theory which ought to be
true, and is sometimes.
Take the trousseau of Princess Marie,
who was married the other day. 1t was
one OF the most sumptuous and magnif-
cent possible to modern fashion. being
said to Guido in splendor and quantity
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

choicest specimens, which include some
very beautiful English plates, and many
French, German and Italian specimens,
are kent bv her in a Shratan cabinet in
the pretty little boudoir which her mother
has given over to her. But her most
valued treasure is just a scrap OF papers
on this bit is written in straight upright
- s'Kartoum all right, IA, u, "a. c. E.
Gordon"
Gordon is Miss Wolseley's great hero
and soldier saint, as he is her fathers
OF late Miss WoIseley has been throw
ing herself with great ardor into philan-
thropic works; she has become Honorable
Secretary OF the Soldiers and Sailors
Families Association, and devotes much
time every day to the considerable amount
| of correspondence entailed.
She is a special favorite with Queen
Victoria, who also enjoys a visit from her
Young friend each time that the general
crosses the Irish channel with his pretty
daughter. ADELE MARRoC.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
A DIsSIPATED Rat.
1t Settled Down to Whisky, But Couldn't
stand the Pace.

1t Settled Down to Whisky, But COuldn't
stand the Pace.
ssPoor old Uncle Dick is dead, the vic
tim of ignorance and cruelty"
The smooth-faced man in the Audito
rum cafe pushed a spoon into goblet of
ice stirring the bitters and syrup, as he
mediated aloud on the death of Uncle
Dick. His face took on a thoughtful ex-
preston as he continued: '"lhls place
was overrun with rats about year ago,
and we did our best to catch the whole
gang Of them. We bought lot of spring
traps and in a week or so caught as
many as a dozen. While here at work dur
ing rat-catching time we heard the trap
snap one day, and it was followed by q
pitifuI squeaing. The trap held the tip
end of a rats tail. l was about to put an
end to the owners life, when he looked
up at me with such an appeal for mercy
that I could not kill him. One of
the boys suggested that we keep him and
clvilize him We got a little bell and tied
lit around his neck with pink ribbon,
stuffed up every rat hole we could find,
talked consolingly to Mr.. Rat, told him we
were sorry for his tail, named him Uncle
Dick and let him go. He lived around
here on what he could find and we
all noticed that ne was particularly fond
of any kind of liquor. We spill great
deal of beer on this rack floor behind
the counter here, and Uncle Dick was
ALWAYS happy when tapping it up. Then
we began giving him his beer in a
saucer, and also gave him d plate of
turkey back here In a, little corner. 1t
was bad precedent to establish, because
after that he would not hunt for eataDIes
for himself. He would squeal around
here until we prepared his meal. OF
course we Detted him a great deal when
we had time. He would curl up in our
arms and had no fear ofanyone.
lone day one of the boys gave him
little whisky instead of beer Twas bad
change, for it s the same way with a rat
as with a man. Uncle Dick liked it and
he got as drunk as lord. He staggered
around here, rolled over two or three
times. and then, as if ashamed of him
self. he went into his corner to sleep off
the drunk. We all agreed that whisky
was bad for Uncle Dick and that ne should
have no more. We gave him beer the
next day, but he would not drink it, He
wanted whisky. We compromised on
wine and he agreed to it.
$50 it went on, and Uncle Dick would
be living now and enjoying his wine
every day if they hadn't sent a fellow
who didn't know Uncle Dick in here to
scrub up. He saw Uncle Dick and sup
posed him to be an ordinary rat. He hit
him with a scrubbing brush and Dick
turned up his toes. Well, he was jolly
good fellow, but the best fellows always
have untimely deaths. - Chicago Herald
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

81 decline to fall in line with those who
are urging the introduction of the hoop
skirt.
'sIt is ridiculous and can endure only
little while. The hoop skirt, or crinoline,
DESTROYS a woman's outlines and takes
away all grace. Besides that, it is not
individual. If l see that one OF my Gus
toners is too slender about the limbs, /
make her gowns fuller. But if she is a
stout woman put in neither bone nor
steel. This is the way l have always
done, regardless of Style or fashion
And this l shall continue to do.
s'To say that sMr. Worth uses crino-
line or Mr.. Worth does not use crino-
line is false, for he both uses it and lets
it alone.
s.The padded shoulders! All, neveri 1
produce the proper shoulder effect by the
draperies of the waist. To pad a woman's
shoulders until she is rigid in outline up
to her ears, and to then set her in a barrel
shaped skirt that swings as she walks, is
to produce vision which is, to my mind,
a cross between a balloon and marion
ette.'
FELIX is wEARIED OF TIE-BACK STYLES.
Felix, whose name is likewise an adj
iective for describing the beautiful in
woman's dress, differs greatly from
Worth and distinctly fayors the crino-
! line.
81 like the introduction of crinoline, -
says he, 'sbecause the time has arrived
for some novelty in woman s dress. The
back has held sway too long. Moth
ing new could be introduced with such
skirt, and SO the crinolines had to come.
People were thoroughly tired of the old
/ tightly-drawn skirt which has been worn
for the past three seasons. And there
was only left one choice out of tWo-the
crinoline or the big hustle.
"Mrs. Cleveland set the style of going
bustleless when she was in the White
the crinoline now or be sadly out of
STYLE"
OPINION OF A HEAD DESIGNER OF NEW
YORK FASHIONS.
The head designer in one of the largest
dry goods and dressmaking establish
ments in New York said yesterday:
81 cannot tell you how glad | am over
the introduction of the crinolines. 1t
gives the modistes such fine opportun-
ity to display costly laces and artistic
draping.
sfDo you see that gown there?' point
ing to vision in purple satin and white
lace. ssThat one garment is worth nearly
a thousand dollars. The silk with which
it is lined throughout cost 81 per yard. 1t
required eighteen yards. That is the
smallest item. The satin, as you see, is
of the heaviest quality, and the lace
flounce cost exactly $287 per yard. There
are ninety inches of lace in the hounce
1t is put on almost plain so as to show the
pattern.
''Now, If we were making such dress
according to the old style we would be
obliged 20 cut the lace into pieces to fit
the shape of the tie back, for it is too
deep to use as a skirt-fnll fiounce merely.
Oh, the crinolines are giving the dress
makers beautiful opportunities to spend
their customers money!
81, for one, favor the crinoline with my
whole heart. If women were to wear the
skirts which they wore during the war
! fully five yards around-it would please
me, for then I could make a creditable
showing when madame gave me carte
blanche for ball gown. Mrs. Abraham
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

is worn over high guimpe and sleeves
of emerald green velvet. A steel bead
lace borders the neck of the gray bodice;
a gray sewing silk ruche borders the
skirt, and the finishing touch is added
with belt of cashmere galoon, that is
fastened in front with two long ends that
fall in an angle outward as they descend,
and thus accentuate the fashionable effect
of skirt full at bottom and narrow at
top.
Simple enough, this gown; anybody
might have it, yet it represents one of
the last cries of the mode. But whether
your copy Of it is fashionable or not de-
ponds altogether on how it is made and
worn, for as somebody has said, man
may be clothed without being dressed.
There is grand difference. / saw this
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26

feet in cotton, and spring will see these
cottons with US. Spring will see also the
appearance of changeable effects in cot
ton. These, as they do not reflect like
silk but absorb light, will have a new
beauty all their own. In such delicious
confectlons as say white cotton with
apricot blushing through in the wool its
borders all designed with parti-colored
bands, we are promised fresh toilette
faded eyes.
But as l was saying, whether Oriental
paloon looks rich or tawdry, depends on
the way it is used. 1t must form an ac-
cent in the right place. Here is a very
good gown in which it is used with dis
erection: Ozark gray cloth is made into
a Louis Philippe skirt and a bodice that
is cut down low and straight across the
shoulders and has shoulder straps. This
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1893-02-26
sLAsHED SKIRTS.


small capote of green velvet and steele.
sLAsHED SKIRTS
The temperance of slashes is another
detail illustrated in the princess ward
robe, who has a gown of brown silk
crepon slashed open on each side over
petticoat of marine blue velvet. No
BODY knows vet how Jar this idea may
develop, but it is certain to fur
nish model for spring. l have
seen an evening skirt that was slashed
third of the way up in four places, and
these slashes placed at regular distances
apart did not balance in the front but the
two on the left side came nearer the mid
die of the front. The effect was surpris-
ingly novel and agreeable.
This skirt was of cream satin ana the
slashes opened over salmon that was par
TALLY yelled by lace ruffle that ord
cred the edge of the cream skirt. Around
the bottom salmon was laid under this
lace. The bodice was of salmon velvet
shot with white and yelled with lace.
Also may be added to the great variety
of skirts one that opens on one side from
the belt down over a petticoat or panel of
another fabric or color. Atpresent this is
most seen in wool gowns over velvet.
Another skirt that will find a place
among the spring models is divided like
two overlapping ruffles, the upper one
reaching Just below the knee. / have
seen this carried out in brown cloth with
borders of sable. The waist has a garcon
jacket with revers of velvet, giiet OF vel
vet with belt, and velvet sleeves.
LOUIS XII STYLE.
Two beautiful neglige robes were made
bv NORM Blossier Tor a recent French
trousseau. One in the Louis XI style is