The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1893-07-14
HOME DRESSMAKING.
A FEW SIMPLE RULES FOR SECURING
A GOOD FIT.

The Most Difficult Seams OF All to Baste.
Finishing the Waist and Smoothing the
seams-Putting Bones In the waist-The
Necessity For Care.
Copyright. 1885, by American Press Associa-
ton.
To insure perfect fit lining ought to
be tried on again before it is basted to the
outside, the seams being left in the second
time, and the whole should fit like wax.
After this process it can be basted upon the
outside with rather long stitches
To cut the outside lay one side of the lin
ing on the double fold and haste it all
around lightly, but firmly, and then cut it
exactly the same size as the lining, with ~
inch margin to turn in the front for but
tons and buttonholes, and then rip it loose
to haste the lining in permanently.
The lines of basting down the middle at
the waist line are intended to draw the lin
ing half an inch fuller there than the out
side Where the bust is unusually full a
V shaped notch in the lining tapering well
out toward the arm size will be of great
benefit to the general form, but the outside
must be pulled up and down so that it does
not show. Sometimes V is also taken
under the arm. These things must be done
on the judgment Of the dressmaker. The
diagram will show how the fullness is to be
adjusted. 1t is really more 'fullness" than
gathers and is intended to cause the out
side to draw little right there at the waist
line where it is so apt to wrinkle, and thus
the outside remains smooth and firm.
When the gathering is done, there should
be basting down through that part di-
rectly in the center of each piece, and when
that is done the hastings around each are
set in in a sort of overland stitch that
makes zigzag, and this makes the firmest
basting. The lining should be held inside.
The hastings being now sewed around ev-
cry edge and seam, the different parts can
be basted together. and if it is feasible the
waist can be tried on again. When the
seams are basted together, they should al
ways start from the top, and when they are
done they can be stitched up on the ma
chine, great care being taken to sew them
on the outside of the hastings, as they allow
a slack of about two inches.
After the waist Is fitted the darts are to
be cut out, allowing from one-half to three
quarters of an inch seam, according to the
quality of the goods. These seams are
sewed, beginning from tapering point, and
then they are laid apart and pressed fiat,
being neatly trimmed and bound or over
cast, and bone castings are run on.
The front side pieces are held a little full
under the arm, and if the bust is very full a
few gathers can be set in with benefit at
the top of this piece
The top Of the under arm and side back
pieces are apt to get stretched, which makes
q very unpleasant and inartistic bunch that
| nothing can correct. To prevent this run
a basting thread with small stitches close
to the upper edge where five ks are
marked. The center back pieces must be
basted together, holding them perfectly
straight and plain. 1t is q good plan tc
stick few pins at intervals to keep them
from slipping or stretching. The side back
seams are the most difficult of all to haste
and few of the best dressmakers even gel
them exact. The following rules will in
| sure success:
1. Basic the right side first, starting al
the top, holding back opposite the five
| ks easy, but not full, being careful not
| to stretch the seam Mt this point, as it i.
bias. Always hold the back next to you. 2
The back just above the waist line should
be held little full on the side-back at tn,
same position. Before basting the left side
fasten the seams together with pins two
inches apart, holding the back toward yor
and commencing to pin from the top. TAXI
particular care to hold the back and sid,
| pieces at the upper marked waist line ex
actly as you did on the right side; ther
| haste up the seam, beginning at the bottom