Morning journal and courier., 1893-11-18

OflOrO, tn5 famous sOInOer Drkucn OI tns Sogne The lower level of this chssm ii The road Is carried en echslle down tht face of the cliff from a height of ffteer hundred feet in twenty-six zig-zsg an gles, of wide and easy sweep at the an gles of return. As each corner of thii road is rounded, there is alternate view not only of this grand defile and snow capped mountains behind and above, bu of those famous waterfalls, the Stslheim fos and the Sivlesos; the former falling without break for over thousanc feet, and the latter for tumble of near ly the same distance. When you have reached the bottom of tbe Stalheim gorge an enormous cone of gray felspsr, tht phantom like Jordalsnyt lifts its cowle6 head four thousand feet into the cloud mists above.
 The universal mode of travel along thest Norwegian roads is by earriole. In all my own excursions on foot into the interior district never saw tourist or native walk ing upon the highways, as you will set them in England or Switzerland. The only exception was where groups of peas ants were making their way from one Rsard or farm house, or field or sAeter, to anoth CT. Travellers never walk; and the bondeI or farmer, and nearly all the peasant tolk do most of their necessary travelling in the oarrioie or stoll-csrt. Both are Norwegian institutions distinctively. The csrriole il something like a combination of the Amer icsn "sulky" and the English trsp-per- haps more ike "ons horse shay" It ii two wheeled, low, and its long shafts, ter minating just back of the axle, form springs for the seat, which Is in front of the axle. The seat is low; you are com pslled to strsighten out your legs, ss though you were sitting upon the floor; and your feet thus just reach a stout little dashboard. This has the advau- tage of landing you upon your feet, in case of a break down, instead of upon your head, as when 8 dog cart or trap goes to pieces. The vehicle is nicely balanced and has but one seat Consequently you must be passenger and driver in one; though little projection behind the axle serves for place upon which to strsp your luggage, if it be as modest ss Norwegian travellers should be, and also for a psrch for the slnny-faced. garrulous lad, tue you between 'ststions," to return your carriole and pony to its owner.
 The Norwegian ponies which draw these carrioles. or are used as saddle horses in the roadless mountain districts, are worthy of chapter to themselves. They are little, cream-coiored and stocky, with fine crests and fors arms, and are most reliable and intelligent. They are as strong as the ''sheltIs' or the CurshsndA pony, and quite as nimble and lonE-suferiug as the Cuban pony or jscss. I never saw ani- mals in any country better cared for; and they respond to the almost sH-cuonate treatment they receive by splendid speed on level stretches of road and an slmcst startling pace down the steepest Of noun tain wsys. Their comprehension of the ethios of travel is. however, often far more acute than that of their foreign drivsrs have often seen them stop and turn about, facing the csrriole passenger, as @ bit of plucky climbing was reached, with a look which asked ss plainly ss words: 'Kind sir. you are now in Norway. Will you not dismcunt and walki'
 They are grszed like sheep among the cliffs and ersgs, snd will bound about among the rocks like the chanois. When wanted for posting relays they will scam per at call like an obedient dog from the hiIlaides to the gaarde or station. They are positively cOmpsnionsble in their ns' lures, and seem to have the Teutonic qual- itiss of strength and endurance with the Celtic strain of versatility, vtysci.y and genial enthusiasm. You cannot travel ir Norway without coming to piscs the Nor wegisn ponies, in the panorama of you experiences and friendships, ss among tht most agreeable of your acquhintances.
 Whether the universal mad rush of tour ists from place to plscs in Norway hss in- fiueuoed certain governmental regulations, or whether the latter have brought about the half crszy dispatch indulged In by travellers. am unsols to ssy. They both exist, and both are interesting ss a specta cle and study. There are few places in Norway where strangers rest and social pleasurea sre enjoyed as at the American Newport and Bar Hsrbor, at ToTqusy, BidefoTd. Buxton and Malvern, In Eug land, and at RJthssay snd Strsthpeffer, In Scotland. Along the splendid fOrds are 6 few suuny spots with villas and charming inns; but outside the cities and the few delightful hsltiug places beside the fordi there are really no inns in Norway. Among all Ter thousands of miles of noble rosdi are nos score of really comfortable hos telries. Instesd of these are what srt known ss "ststions." They are found throughout Norway at distances of six tC ten or twelve miles apart; and their chsrgel for posting by carrioie, and for come DOT tions of actual food and lodging, are reg ulated by governmental authority.
 These stations or "skydStations," as the! gre called iu Norway, are subsidized by tn
 state and gre under strictest goverpmsn control. There are two clsssss, fast sta a'fons," where a stated number of car rioles, stoll carts and ponies are equireC to be kept by the master, and the "tilsig else" or "slow-ststlons," which are no compelled to furnish any more convey a=ces or ponies than can be convenient, kept, or procured from nsighboring farms The slow stations are also known as "fOr bud" stations; because the touris. Is liabl to be detained for hours. and perhsp days. at these, unless he sends "foTbad | literally "fore goer" or messenger, on fl advance to bespesS his requirements. Thi stforbud" Ia the Norwegian courier, but 1 far less i'm posing and costly one than n who provides the chief bsne and expsns of travel in SSliz ariand and the LAsli countries. The "forbdd" may be Q g-ntl old man, lively lad or robust barefoot ed ls's; and In any case ths iusignifcsn fixed fee aad the trifilng grstuity you ms add, are received with such profuei1n q
 lowing, hand shsking and "Nange tak | (many thsnksD that use uf the ''fnrbni invariably proves convenience and piezs urs.
 All of these posting stations have wbs | Is called a dsybook (dsgbca) slWsye lyin
 
 | page is the sctusl contract made brtwsel | the goverumsns and the station master | It shows how many bsis the station shs | bs provided with, the tsIif for tbe came | the number and character of vsbio,sa ant | the number of horses to be in I've, if | fast-station, as well as the extra charge fO | prescribed modes of conveyance 10 th | next station, each vsy. As the averag | official rate for posting does not sxc.s | three cents per Epalish B!ls, the tours | can himself ascertain the exSc. EXpsnss | from one station to another. You are zis | protected sgsinst imposition il the tender | cy of landlords to detsln and retain thei | guests for profit. The handy day bNo | stands sentinel against this. Each trave CT, or representative of a party, befor | leaving a station must write his name the day book and state the exact number (
 conveyancss engaged; 30 that any one f. lowing after may know If the absent Veh
 cles the required quota.
 It is creditable to these sturdy Norw,
 gian folk that when e party arrives at
 fast station only to find that there
 not a sufficient number of convey snos
 though the legally required number is use, that good breeding rather than bull
 ing and bribss will universally secure son
 sort of relief from your dilemma. A No
 wegian ststion-mRster Is very seldom
 trucking landlord. He is almost always
 ponder. that is, proprietor of large lanS
 about the station, and 6 farmer on a T
 spectacle ecale, who has been required |
 the government to provide posting and e
 tertainment facilities. In sevsral instanc
 coming under my observation he is Il
 schoolmaster; and know of two who a
 clergymen. These men all have certs | nrida in thAir indiYidnal nnsEnssinnR the