The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1893-03-05
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
WILL MRS. CLEVELAND ADOPT
THE aOCPP


NEW YoRK, March Are you going 70
get Cleveland dressl 1t will be quite the
thing now for good long time to come to
follow the doings at the white house, and
particularly those of its beloved mistress
Then just as soon as Mrs. Grover appears in
new gown, coat or bonnet, it will be ours to
secure one like it in color, shape or size. 1t
would not be good taste to have it repro
duced in every particular. but would be a
delicate acknowledgment of our apprecia-
ton of her taste in gowning, to appropriate
some portion of it in our ndornment
Let US hope devoutly that she will never
don the inflated skirt. For il she forever
disdains it, then may we, too, feel quite
serene in our slightly faring ones.
But we need not wait for u hint from the
white house before buying our early spring
gown, for all of tie spring goods have
something in common, and we can scarcely
stray very far from what she chooses. The
spring goods are alike after fashion, and
vet after another fashion, are surprisingly
unlike. As we cast one careless look over
large number of fabrics we decid that 1t
makes very littls difference which one we
select, as they all look so much
alike And then, when we come TO
examine more closely, we wonder what
gave us this first impression. For we find
that there is scarcely any actual resem-
blauce. They are it is true, all Of some
dull, old shade; out, on the other hand, of
almost every shade imaginable They have
also, almost every one Of them, some
thread running over In foreign color. But
we discover also that these threads are
rarely alike in shade or texture. In addi-
| tion TO this, we MAKE up our minds first that
the queer, crazy designs formed by these
threads are rather similar, when suddenly
1t dawns upon us that no two OF them are
alike. This arouses our interest, and We
begin TO think them worthy Of closer atten-
tion after all. Then begins the absorbing
question of which one OF all these bewi!der-
| ing fabrics we shall select for our own.
Shall it be this thin, sheer goods that has
| fine silk stripe running through it, and
besides a sort of spider pattern all over itl
or this dark blue with dull pink fieur de lis
closely covering itl Perhaps this gauzy
black stuff would be better with the fine
gold thread so closely woven that it almost
conceais the ground work; and yet this dull
pink with funny irregular dots of paer and
duller pink over would be prettier yet; and
these palmer materials with the silky stripes
are very attractive. Dear, it is SO hard to
make up ones mind.
But it really matters little which one you
take. For, believe me, when you get one
OF them home and see it apart from the
dozen other materials you are bound to like
it, and it is almost sure TO be becoming. For
that is the beauty Of them all, They are all
soft, and yet there is something about each
that makes it stand out. Ia a word, they re
awfully pretty il you consider each alone.
But take my advice aud don't LOOK at too
many at one time, or you'll never in this
world be satisfied with one the very
finest of theta, with the patterns run over
inc lii h. De-
bers Of them are much less expensive.
The puzzhnR question is, how to have
them made. IL 1t is really decided that we
are not to have the hoopskirt, what, then,
are we to hsvel And il 1t Is not yet quite
decided, how soon will it bel While the
world is lowering in state OF uncomforta-
BILE suspense, wondering what will happen
next, it is safe TO observe the rules laid down
duTiag the last few months At least there
IS one comfort for all Of US, that so far the
skirts have failed to flare to any con-
siderable degree; they have remained
within strictly proper bounds, 30
that we shall be quite safe in
having the modestly tiaring skirt, even
on the new costume. A very pretty way
to make your coming gown is to cut your
plain skirt open at the left side, just enough
to show al embroidered pettlcuat below in
some plain, harmonizing or contrasting
color. Make your bodice empire, have V
embroidered just Ike petttcoat, then the
corselet plated in fine folds at the shoulder
seam, drawn down both sides of the in
front. and disappearing under a wide belt
embroidered like the petticoat and the vest.
Have yOur under sleeves embroidered also.
have Just seen a most stunning spring
coat. 1t is extremely striking, with its
perfectly straight lines 1t has nothing
but u plain velvet yoke, edged by bit of
tanciful passementerie, from which falls
the cloak propar, straight, without a fold,
to the feet, front ald sides. The front is OF
plain cloth. the sides of velvet to match,
the back of CLOTH The sleeves ara of cloth,
very slightly fuled and dropping at the
shoulders very noticeahly. II sounds most
ordinary. hut looks quite the opposite.
Then there is also the new cape. The cape
will grow more nnd more pulled up, for
it will receive even more attention
this coming season than it has done all
winter. Now that it will soon be too
warm for the velvet aud fur cape, the
plain cloth one will begin to assert itself.
Aud no sooUer will this transpire than ell
womaukind. even to the very lowest, will
he able to ape the society woman and pro-
duce a garment that will by courtesy bear
this name. For it will be such a simple
matter to initiate the nantes of the high
danes. Ia winter it was not so easy, for
although a makeshift for both fur and
was still at too high cost to come within
the reach Of all. And so the poor, envious
creatures were obliged to cling to their coats.
But the clotn cape is quite another thug,
1t will not be long before the streets will De
plentifully beSprinkied with young and
aspiring maidens from the lower ranks of
life, all clad In garments of exactly the
same cut and quality OF material, feeling
extremely smart and proud of themselves
as they consider how stylish they look, how
easily they might be taken for real swels
Then will society shed her cape in sheer
dis ust aud wonder whether any of its pet
garments will escape the communicating
touch of the people
But the new cape will scarcely be appro-
prieted by every one, for 1t is far too dainty
and expensive a thing. l saw it all in
brown, the cape proper made Of a soft,
fanny brow cloth, falling very slightly
full, just below the hips. At the neck there
was very high collar of brown velve:,
several shades deeper than the cloth, which
heightened itself into a small collarette,
plated over the shoulders. Around the high
collar was broad band of fne jet, and
from the jet baud. all around, fell loose
pendants of jet, quite long, reaching half
way down the cape Dnd finishing in narrow
points and jet frInges. 1t looked very
pretty.
IT you have not yet trimmed your Lenten
bat, by all means purchase some palm Of
rich, dark greeu--not the genuine, uuless
you wish to replace 1t daily-and weave it