Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1892-10-20
new YORK FASHION CHAT
Timely Topics Discussed by
RoSalind May.
NEW MATERIALS FOR GOWNS
Latest Fashionable Styles in
Making FurS.

Revival of Gros Grain and Moire Silks
Trimmings Richer and More Beauti-
full Than Ever--Clpth Capes That Come
Below the Waist--Out-door Garments.
Special correspondence OF Gazette,and journal
New York, oct. 14.-Wools in solid
color, but fancy weave, have greatly in
terfered with plain styles and among the
former, are those showing MORE, block,
diagonal, wavy, or striped patterns.
Subdued effects of color are pleasing in
other woods notified by soft siadings in
gray, old blue Or tan that are placed
with abandon or sometimes i'll stripes or
plaids while yet other styles are bright
ened by haphazard touches of gay tones.
Pretty woods are bestrewn by dots, hair
line stripes or small sprays in silk on
fancy woven groundworks. Changeable
woods both III plain and fancy weaves
are peculiar to this season and in addi-
ton to alterations of two colors, tleck-
ings in contrasting hues may appear
likewise. Chenille stripes on tleecy sur
faces have novelty and serges in silk
and wool are changeable with fancy
patterns.
IN SILKS
the revival of gros grain and MORE as
WELL in black or colors for the making
of entire dresses, is most notable and
keeping pace with such revival, velvet
either black or colored, comes up again
rs u leading dress material, although
still largely employed for guimpes, corse-
lets, cuffs, reyers, &c. Elegant silks
nh IL rrrN frroir
faces, rich bouquet, floral or bow knot
patterns in bright colors and similar
class of designs in self color will be ap.
propriate for persons who wish hand
some dress, but one not too gay. The
new bourette silks have all the charm OF
novelty and come in lighter weight, in
black, solid colors or enlivened by
rough stripes or plaids. These will be
much worn by young people, and
especially for evening, when in lovely
shades they lend themselves to many
pretty combinations or to the soft fall Of
| first Empire outlines that are now intro
duced in d primeval integrity Of very
| short waists and full skirts. Silk null
or chiffon made over thin silk, are
equally appropriate, and retain their
| former popularity.
TRIMMINGS
on the passementerie or galloon order
were never SO rich or beautiful, and
| while black to be worn on colors is
very fashionable, yet extraordinary
richness appears in color mixtures in
silk cords or in iridescent beads on dark
or pale foundations Of silken cord. Vel
vet bands scalloped or plain on the
edges are adorned by embroidery Of
beads; more modest, but quite eff
fective trimming is of contrasting
pipings of cloth, velvet or silk, having
gilt or jet beads in the centre; kid trim
mings cut in fancy patterns and show
ing gilt or jet cords on both outer ant
| inner edges are also handsome novel
ties, but most striking of all perhaps
are galloons holding at intervals sue
cessiye buckles in jet or steel, and al
will appear at glance, the oppor
tunities here for effective novelty ar,
exceptional. Such garnitures are, how
ever, manifestly appropriate to self
colored or black materials and TO
fabrics in fancy patterns; there is ;
great demand for Iur bands, especially
of beaver, seal or otter, but borders o
mink tails as finish on mink cape
have great prestige, while unique garni
lures are of mink tails attached t,
basques, and by those who can afford i
they may be placed around the bottom
of skirts. The trade in
FURs
is exceptionally brisk this fall, since tn
impression is general, that the seasoi
will be unusually severe, one indication
among others being that the fleece OF
fur bearing animals is much longer thai
is customary. Elegant garments intro
duced by g. c. Shayne of Forty-secon
street have at once captivated fashion
ables and give tone to coming styles
Seal is in great demand for capeS
jackets, coats with of course, mutfs t.
match or for splendid circulars line
with brocade for wealthy women's wea
in carriages. Capes are longer thai
hitherto, coming well below the wais
or attaining sometimes, demilong pro
portions and all have high shoulders
Beautiful long cloaks are of rich fame
woven fabrics made with Watteau plai
at the back, full pulled sleeves, edge
with fur bands and lined with squire
lock fur, but there is sharp competition
from circulars made also OF fame
fabrics and lined with squirrel lock ful
TRIPLE CApEs
of cloth coming below the waist al
very fashionable, yet closely rivalled b
those Of velvet in fancy shapes. Dem
long capcs or long cloaks enyeloping III
figure are also in demand for sever
weather and here there is competitio
between those made with Vatican pla
and high sleeves and shapes that wit
high shoulders, are sleeveless. Clotl
fancy or plain and the more cXpensiv
lined with squirrel fur, is most USED
but velvet comes up again as cloa
material and is seen with rich fur trim
mings. Jackets are thrcc-quarters ion!
, tight fitting ut the back, either tight 0
loose in front, with often the irrcpress
t alc vest and sleeves much more fu
than formerly. Serviceable cloaks al
in rough or mixed cloth and with Wa
teau plait or circular shapes, but person
who have Newmarkets on hand wit
lcm-long capes, will continue to wea
, them, though somewhat behind tn
, times RosALISD MAY.