Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-05-14
Id CHURCH TOWNS.
rr From the Old, Worn Ways of
Travel, Edgar L. Wakeman Finds
ERY MUCH THAT'S OF INTEREST.
oucester, England. Rich in History and
Mellow in Traditions.
GLIMPSE AT ITS NOBLE CATHEDRAL
roorRrsroxpExcE OF THE DISPATCH,


VS. caught enticing glimpses OF the spires
ID roofs of ancient Gloucester grouped
,out the huge tower of its splendid cathe-
al, all snuggled amid rich verdue beside
cleaning waters of the Severn. The old
thedral town, far from the worn WAYS OF
avel, rich in history, legends and quaint
architecture of long ago, and still peace.
and simple in its provincial coloring and
avs. at last won me from the mountains
rough winding beech-lined roads and bios
ming hawthorn roads.
In every other English cathedral town
ave visited nave always found a "High
rect" the principal thoroughfare into
hich all others lead, and from which some
5cturesque wynd or court brings you di-
ct to the cathedral close. 1t is different
Gloucester. There was once a famous
-oss at the very center of the city. The
so main streets of the city intersect each
her here One running north and south
Northgate and Southgate to and from the
lace still called ''the Cross. The other
Eastgate and Westgate to and from the
tme spot
AsOuaint as Dickens Charact
All that which is picturesque and charm
II from its antiquity, and that is much in
loucester, will be found within distance
500 wards from the Cross, upon these in
arsecting thoroughtareS, or in the sleepy
Id courts leading into them. always in
reasing in number and interest as YOU ap-
roach the Cross In "the Rows" of Chester
i'll undoubtedly be found the greatest
nmber of oddly constructed, half-timbered
! hot han hOr1cnc of al
itv of England
But here in Gloucester are certainly more
nd more winsome individual instances. At
le corner of Northgate street and Shake
1eare road, where r. jenkins, "SOles and
Ieels Gents shoes for two and sixpence,
nj Ladies at one and nine" and is also
Barber and Naturalist" who, with his
human various" reminds you striking of
N1r Venus in Mutual Friend, is
uainter structure than ever Dickens
aiuted.
A little further up the same street, at
Umber 1O2, is a huge old building, now
-ansformed into foundry, where Sir
William Gladstone, father of the present
liberal leader, formerly carried on
anking business: and a fve-pound note of
is issue may still be seen in the Gloucester
luseum. Just opposite is the most char
cteristic old inn, entered through a huge
rcade, have vet found in England. 1t is
allied New Inn, though very, very old. 1t
As built to accommodate the pilgrims to
he tomb of Edward H., under the abbacy
Thomas Seabroke in 1541. 1t is 4J1 years
ID and absolutely intact.
Fantastic and Charming Inns.
In Westgate street almost opposite where
GU enter the little court leading to the
arhedral. is another strange old inn, not SO
arCe as New Inn. but even more fantastic
nd charming. Never elsewhere was seen
1ch a radiant tumble of odd corners, little
rches, protruding upper stories, peep-holes
2 windows, gables, offices. ''ostries," tap
ooms. and wealth OF foliage and chubby
heeked barmaids to heighten the mysteries,
heer and charm of this typical old English
nm.
Most of the shops are entered by steps
Glow the street. One, two, three and four
enJury old buildings bulge and protrude
bove them. Nearly all the structures in
he district previously referred to have Sec
nd stories which project from one to three
eet beyond the first, with curious old
arved brackets, where they stand at street
corners: and more than half have third and
ourth stories projecting in same manner.
All have strange, indescribably odd win
lows, tiny-paned, little, big, broad, mar
ON. long, short, round and square, with
Ieadcased lintels: and thew furnish the
guaintest collection of gables eyes ever be-
leld. Perhaps the primmest and tidiest of
hem all is the half-timDered home and
printing house of Robert Raikes, at number
Is Sou;hgate street. The body of the grand
old philanthrOpist lies in the Church of St.
Mary de Crypt, not 80 yards away.
Simplicity in Rural Regions.
Al Il l.
of England will be deeply impressed by the
extreme simplicity and almost rural char
acter OF their Inhabitants. Barring the
presence OF a few modern innovations, one
seems to have come into the atmosphere of
an old English novel. This is especially
true in Gloucester. All day long, the
rEoroughtares have a quiet country market
c0l0riuC. The actual inhabitants slip about
and attend to their meager affairs with a
smiling, humble, tolerative air, as though
they had unconsciously taken on the man
ners OF the cathedral vergers, and rather
stood aside for the more strapping and
hawuv country element.
The latter furnish many pleasant studies
Long-coated, heavy-jowled buyer are here
Frocked, listlesS, open-mouthed yeomen are
here. Your genuine English farmer is here
him with the stubbv, sandy tabs of whskers
upon his ruddy face, with bushy brows and
a tirm-Set mouth that ever opens and shuts
with a sound as though huge cork had
been violently pulled. Snappy-eved farm
er, wives are here, with ample skirts and
honnets and plumes that would pique with
envy a London costermonger belle And
better than all, here are bevies of the most
RI diant-taced English countryside lasses
ay es ever beheld.
stirring and Characteristic Scene.
A most stirring and quite as characterful
scene comes with the evening The four
lned chimes OF the sweet cathedral bells
ave scarcely ceased when thousands of
-, I0ucester lads and lasses are upon the
treets, The little shops are ablaze All
he household marketing of the day is now
being done for the morrow. One can
scarcely make progress on the narrow walks,
and the mass overfows upon and fills the
arriage ways. Then it is YOU will see in
ocenr, urabashed, sturdy love-making at
best There is no secrecy about it. The
hacking is resonant, the caressing un-
.ecked, the embracing muscular and
dent 1t increases in activity and univer-
litv until 10 o'clock. Then out go the
ghts and away to their homes whisk the
oULC folk, their heavy hobs beating thun-
rously upon the resounding pavements.
lmost IN an instant you are alone with the
5lmeted roundSmen upon their beats and
tier silence has fallen upon the old cathe-
raj town.
However others may feel, never enter
ID Old World cathedral without awe in NV
cart apart aud distinct from that direct and
instructive reverence which the sacred char
cter OF the structure impels
This is because L stand in spot which is
tomb Of innumerable personages who have
SISTED in making, or have gained places in,
he worlds history; because the upbuilding,
reservation, destruction, rehabilitation, of
,has my hands may touch or ewes behold,