Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1892-04-28

Special Correspondonce of Gazette and journal
CRAcow, GALIcTA. March 3i.-If one
could first approach Cracow from the
north, filled with the sentimental romance
OF Polish heroic memories, and have in
mind the Poland and Cracow of that time
when Cracow was the residence of Polish
sovereigns. view of the ancient city
would be one of great impressiveness.
At any distance, from this direction, the
structural seeming is one of unimpaired
splendor Its many church spires quaint
and huge-peaked roofs, spacious palaces
and dark old towers, are clustered III great
profusion around the Wayel Rock. on
which stands the castle of Zamek, the
former royal castle Of Poland. AT its base
the dragon Of the cave, which noisome
hole may still be seen, was killed by Krak.
the Cadmus of Poland At the city's
southern side can be seen the cleaning
waters of the blue Vistula, which almost
encircles the olden town. The splendid
Visiula vale stretches fair and far beyond.
And the southern horizon is n serrated
edge Of misty blue where, over against
sunny Hungary, rise the peaks of wild
Tatra and the grand Carpathian range.
But splendid as is this first seeming the
ancient city of kings, cathedrals and uni
versities is now simply gorgeous shell of
stone, swarming with Il population the
most miserable and seemingly hopeless
held from $1,000 to 100000 souls and was
the commercial as well as royal capital Of
Poland: Its desertion and degradation
reached an apparent lowest ebb d quarter
of a century since. Subsequently Austrian
reforms, and the general Improvement Of
the condition of the Galician Poland
peasantry, and especially the stimulating
effect of excellent development IN agri-
\ cultural and the mineral and petroleum
fields of Galicia, reawakened some of its
old-time commercial activity.
But this fell away again as Lemberg
gradually became the commercial capital
OF Gallcia. Then came another influx Of
population. but of SO dulorous q sort that
Cracow's present increased housing of
humans is certainly the most painfully
and pathetically abhorrent in all Europe.
The city is not more than 10 English miles
from the Russian frontier, During all the
unspeakably cruel prosecutions of Russian
Polish Jews which have Indignantly
thrilled the civilized world during the
past few years, Cracow has, received and
succord greater number of these helpless
refugees than any other single European
city.
So. near is the city to the, Russian from
tier that every week, often nearly every
day, witnesses professions of these outcasts
given speed across the border by the i'm
petus OF threatened knout and lash, and
the even more goading fear of actual muir
der. In 1864 / saw with bursting and
mutinous heart the God-forsaken folk of
my own race as they were driven from
Atlanta. while their homes were burned
behind them. But revolving as was that
brutal scene of so-called military neces.
slty, it could not be compared with what
is OF such common occurrence here that
it attracts no further comment or atten-
ton.
Two great objects of interest will be
found before you enter the city. To the
north is one Of the most gigantic einbat-
tied fortresses in Europe Austria has
always claimed that this was for use as Il
frontier fortress in the event of Russian
hostilities As nearly 1000 spies In citi-
Zen's clothing are said to be still in use in
Cracow and the immediate vicinity, the
Pollsh peasantry prefer to believe ID was
built and is kept manned for the purposes
OF awe and effectnal subjugation
IN any event il forms threatening
answer to still greater monument to
national feeling, which may be found but
three miles distant upon the eminenco Of
brownislawa., This is the colossal Kos
cinsko Mound
Over in Ireland the humble peasantry,
loyal in their memories for evenlegendary
nero or SAINT, when passing the spot where
the body fell or was inferred, cast pebbles
upon the grave and murmur PRAYERS for
the repose of the soul. A similar Polish
good. has resulted in this most curious
memorial mound in Christendom. 1t is 1850
feet high and is principally formed of
earth, brought in sacks and barrow loads
with infinite toll from all the battlefield
famous in Polish history Grim and tragic
IS the satire upon this sacred heart built
memorial, on the part of relentless power
When IL was nicely completed, the Aus
Trans found 1t an excellent pedestal for
one Of the huge detached forts with which
they proceeded to surround Cracow in u
five miles circle.
The outer walls of the city itself are very
interesting aud massive They will re-
mind you of the tremendous walls of old
Neuremberg, down in Bavaria. They are
quite as high and thick. but are yaried Mt
intervals with surrounding towers, both
square and round, of immense thickness
and great height with most picturesque
minaretted roofs. The gateways are quite
us remarkable as those at Malta, and are
given great additional quaint charm by
their curious old shrines, These are very
ancient; indeed so old that the carving Of
the tioriture and images are almost wholly
defaced. From this fact alone they seem
TO attract the greatest number Of wor-
shippers; and on many occasions | have
been scarcely able to pass beneath these
huge arches owing to the crowds packed
like panicky sheep upon their knees
against the shrines.
Round about and within the old city at
this season OF the year, just as the foliage
Is beginning to show along the banks Of
the Vistua and among the gigantic trees
of the ancient promenades, casual glance
gives the impression of serenity and even
brightness. One feels as though quiet and
satisfied content must reign within and
without. But once inside the massive
gateways, the heart sickens at what the
eyes continually behold.
Soldiers are aVaryWhara Cav "a, fhair
rlch trappings they spurn their fellow |
civilians as though they were beasts. Were |
1 one OF these human animals beneath
them would surely answer their insults |
win dynamite or melanite and one has |
only to move about these streets an hour
to understand and condone the awful re- |
venges the goaded humans of some Of these |
,old-worid hives are taking upon their op-
4 ,pressors. No Polish lowly woman can
walk these streets without beastly insult.
= No Jewish maiden is safe in her own door |
way from these uniformed jackals, have
witnessed outrages by the Austrian mill
pry without number too unspeakably |
Horrible to be put in print. They are so |
common, their victims are so helpless, the
slavlshness or their powerlessness is so
hopeless for change, or attention, or Jus.
uce, that their tormentors have even
ceased to smile at their own deyilish in |
genuity of outrage.
Some of these things cannot be repeated. |
Here are few instances of simple bru-
tality out of scores have myself witnessed |
IN Cracow. A landlord offended bv the
ewkwsrdness of n Polish servant struck |
him in the face with carving steel, break
ing all his front teeth. The guests laughed
Hloud and the victim was directed to wash
the blood from his mouth and continue
serving the table. AT one of the gateways
8nobleman was being driven into the city.