The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-05-05

| mobility for so small an area and popula-
| ton sprang up in the islands, which con-
| tinues to this day, and the Maltese women
| of this class are types OF the greatest beauty
| and elegance AZ the men OF the middle
| and lowly classes are noted for dociiity,
| thrift. frugality and many other excellent
virtues. virtue itself IL the browning glory
| of the Maltese maids and matrons; and 70
know this and Of their afTectionate, true
| hearted and unassuming lives and ways Is
10 find in every expression OF Maltese fe-
/ male loneliness an added and lasting
charm.
The shops Of Valetta are peculiar in their
| character. OF late years Malta has become
such an important winter resort for Eng
lish and continental visitors, and such
great numbers Of sightseers for day are
now certain to be deposited by the dozen
or more steamers making daily arrivals,
that the shops Of Strada Reale and Grande
| Rue have gradually taken on the charac-
ter Of grand bazaar Of the more fragile
and costly products Of all Mediterranean
and Lcvantine countries.
Merchants from Tangier, merchants
| from Fee. merchants from Algiers and
| from Tunis, merchants from Cairo, Alex
andria and Constantinople; Persian and
Arabian merchants, Italian merchants and
Spanish. even the thrifty Swiss with their
curios from the mountains and the ubiqui-
tous japanese, all with their most tempting
! ocnere are here, living together IN mutual
| good will: and with tailors from London,
Derfuners and modistes from Paris and
cafetiers from Greece, furnish more be
wildering display and variety of costly
wares and Injuries than could be found
save by a connoisseur in Paris, London or
| New York
This not only adds greatly to the charm
and interest Of street scenes and displays,
but tends toward luxunousness in habit
and life on the part Of those enjoying the
winter upon the islands These folks, as
rule. are drawn from the wealthiest Of the
English. Germans and French. They live
sumptuously Mt the great hotels, at clubs
or in private villas in the suburbs Of Valet
Ia. the principal Of which is Sliema, where
the elegance and display is not outrivaled
In the London west end. The English gov
eminent Of Malta has provided splendid
driveways and greatly improved the coun-
try roads. Indeed. in the cOStliness OF APP
parel. in the maguifcence Of the shops. in
the throngs of fair women Of the northern
type and in the superb displays in riding
and driving that in any winter afternoon
may be seen along upper Strada Reale and
Grande Rue, and from PO-ta Reale through
Floriana around TO Sicma, and over eve
white driveway leading TO the inter-
constantly remind one Of the throngs
Regent street and the morning professions
Of stately equipages in London's famous
Rotten Row.
Every stranger in Malta will visit the
great Church of St. John. 1t stands today
as it left the grand masters hands, save in
what it was deprived of by Bonaparte's
looting II not perfect in architectural
grace. its exterior which Is surmounted
by the Maltese cross, is massive and state
". while the interior, with its historic asso-
Citations ever in mind, Is wonderfully i'm
pressive. 1t is gorgeous with every species
Of decoration. It's pavement is Of costly
yaricolored marble. The high altar is re-
splendent with silver, gold and precious
gems. 1t occupies the center of the choir
and at either side are low diasks beneath
crimson canopies, with solitary chair on
each-one for the Catholic bishop Of Malta
and the other dedicated to the Protestant
monarch Of England. Above the latter
are the royal arms.
Not the least interesting features Of the
Church Of St John are the chapels Of Ian
guages and the memorial vaults of depart
ed knights The nave Is long and wide,
and the walls are tretted in curious de-
vices. gilt with sequin gold. Approaching
the aisles on either side, the eye rests, as
through golden arches, upon range OF
small. dome crowned chapes, the altar
pieces of which are curious old paintings.
These were the chapels of the different
languages or nations, as OF France, Italy,
Provence. Auvergne, etc, and these are
extraordinarily rich in noble monuments
in marble and bronze.
The Virgin chapel hidden from the body
of the churih by the choir, possesses
balustrade of massive silver; and here are
to be seen the keys Of three cities OF
strength over which the Knights of St.
John once ruled-Jerusalem, Acre and
Rhodes. Standing out from the dark
paneling of the choir Immediately behind
The altar scuptured in white marble, is a
representation OF the Baptism Of Christ"
1t is the work Of Maltese artists Of the
Seventeenth century, and | have not seen
its superior in any Of the famous churches
of Europe The high boldly arched vault
ing Of the roof is entirely covered with
paintings representing scenes and incidents
in the life of ST. John and the tapestries
that hang below, which are said to have
cost $4,000, are Of wonderful proportions
and beauty.
Between the pillars separating the nave
and the aisles are many monuments, some
incrusted with jasper and agate and all Of
unrivaled richness and grandeur. II is
said that at least every surface square foot
of the vast structure covers the body Of a
once valiant knight the monuments TO
grand masters and architects and painters
engaged in the establishment Of the edi
fee are bewildering in their frequency and
magniiicence, and the entire structure
stands today grand yet pathetic mauso
leum and reminder Of the power and glory
of those Christian warriors OF an heroic
and chivalrOus past
This constant mingling Of "reminiscences
Of medieval heroism with every other quail
ity and object so strange and unique III
Southeastern life and ways, the whole light
ened by the gayeties and brllliancles of the
thousands Of wealthy strangers OF your
own kind and tongue, IL one Of the most
fascinating sensations TO be experienced ia
any city of the Mediterranean.
Wherever Won turn Won are confronted