New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-09-18

CITY FAD-THE FASHIONABLE sLEEvE-A
woMAN's oARvING-FURNI:HING THE
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. GIFTS
HALL SETTLE.
The stately old-fashioned country place. with Its
broad acres and dgnifed mansion Its ample stables
and gardens its graperies," Its "pneres' and other
bo4hopses without number for fruit and flowers. and
all Tho varions accessories OF such establishment, Is
Incoming more and thing of the past. The rich
men of to-day often prefer TO have cottage at
Newport or Bar Harbor scamp In the Adiron
dacks; river" In Conada log" In Florida;
"house in town"-and not infrequenty they add to
these other abodes private car and yacht This
Is the I'm de steele idea OF comfortable living, and II
certainly has the merit of adding variety to the
existence OF those who afford to indulge in such
luxuries. To be In o cool climate in summer and to
enjoy balmy breezes IN winter as part OF ones exist
ence Is certainly a modern idea 81 remember" said
lady, speaking Of this radical change. especially In
our summer life, the other day, g. that when was
child we all expected suffer with heat In summer as
\ matter Of course. We went 10 our country place
about the LIST OF June. taking with US the most
daphapons clothes possible and we never thought OF
going out Of taking any exercise, except IN the
early morning or very late in the afternoon. Now
take my young people to the seashore or the noun
tain-tops and they are out the whole day long ana
their physiques show that 1t is much healthier ex
istence."
at Is curious how things change In decade
sad Q women Of society the other day. "Ten years
ago 10 was the American women who were well put
together and the English women who were unRemP'
and unudy; and now It seems Just the contrary
There l. thing. for instance. that particularly
noticed at Continental watering place this summer
where there were great many English ana American
Young drle and that how much more neatly
the former belted IN their tennis frocks than were
the Latter. asked one Of them how she mahaSeo
50 that her belts never slipped up nor her sKiNs
slipped down. She told me that one-hah OF her
belt was always sewn beforehand to her skirt' anu
that after She put It on and the skirt was hooked
behind, her maid basted the remaining hall Win
fsw running stitches before the belt was fasteneo
with It's BUCKLE In front. This is OF course only
small, matter but 1t Of many such instances
II he'd daughters Of my own I should insist upon
their paying more attention to detail than to anything
else. 1t is Just those little things that count IN
pretty toilette"
There Is fad In favor Of simplicity Just now; but
the simplicity of the fashionable world Is as far re-
moved from rus'icity It is possible To hnaeme'
n fs 30 subtle and 20 difficult to Initiate IN po'h
clothes and manner that II Is hopeless for any unsH
mi person TO attempt to affect this particular 7Se'
An amazing instance Of this Straightforward ana most
bainx Kind OF politeness occurred the other any Ut
Hamburg A busting dame Of fashion, who was
anxious to make her social record by having the very
best people at her entertainments, rushed up 70
man who was the celebrity OF the moment Win al,
invitation to dinner. "Thank you think not" sa'o
the fin de steele swell" very politely ana pleasantly
Deoeived By his unaffected and almost cordial manner
ona thinking that she must have misunderstood hm'
the lady commenced the attack again You are
very GOOD to ask me-" he repeated, put cl"'i"
not and this all the answer she received ihe!e
WAS not the shadow OF excuse, no apology Simply
q polite decnnation
Here is "bitn from q transatlantic letter winch
will doubtless be interesting TO brideseiect We W.
O. family Of south Americans al IIomburg VINO i've III
Paris a good part Of the year. and VINO oeSues pes
chormno people are noticeable for their perfect tasN
4, Gowns They tell me that they now get every
thing from Doucet, finding him much 10 De pleleiis
TO Worth who. it is whispered Is getting rather oN
forytsh or RouR, whom some OF the iasmohApie peo
nile are BEGINNING to patronize very largely. Inc e'
eat daughter of these spanish Americans who mas !.
heen married 20 grandee Of the Court OF Maarlo ha"
an EXQUISITE treusseau from Doucet her "eoulns
dress WAS plain white satin, the waist coVereN VII"
knife nj Gated Chiffon brought up close 10 the toroa'
and confined with band of ribbon and an eiasuc al
the hack OF the neck Broad baE1s OF white sa'in
ribbon were wound around the whist very tightly III
most lin 10 the bust with rosees at the bacK lneie
ucre VERY full white satin sleeves TO the eiDo"' VII"
deep falls OF point dADgeterre The veil OF inc Sse
lace covered her entirely. There were TWO uhh'"r
RED daughters In the party-very cuuVa'eo az" az
,omnlished girls-and most industrious. They hao
uorked in stitch entire set OF furniture cover
i've In Gobelin design which most beautul ana
which 80 delighted their father that he prepared al
entire room IN the style OF that period ana nad 'nci
needIework mounted at the best place IN laris io ~
sort Of thing"
The reign Of the sleeve IS more pronounced tnah
ever "Pirst make Your sleeves" salo cIe'ei n'"
aam. and then fashion your gown out OF wfat Is
80, Tremendously large and boufant to the elbow
ord very tight and well fitting below seems TO be the
nvariable rule ,. ,a..
An attempt this summer abroad to Introduce short
fll elbow sleeves for outdoor garments TO be worn
with bomg loose gnnts de suede, was however, MOI
snccess: and they we're supplemented In the majority
Of cases by tightly fitting lace sleeves when coVere
the lower part Of the arm BANDS ol rip"o" wv
around the arm from the elbow down, and hhisheu
with small bows are favorite fashion Just now a
Girl NAV be fairly bound UP In ribbon this re son. but
the long floating ends popular year ago are no"
quite discarded.
one Of the latest French fashions Is to have the
..So snd dix pett,coats match exactly; mis- has
very pretty and finished elect
There are q great many pros and cons in regard to
Christmas dfs II the obligation to give presents Is
uear,ness TO the flesh costing anxious thought ana
,verxork or perhaps, too great drain on slender
nurse II Is certainly not In accord win the oic9ou
happy season. And yet this Is often uie case anu
MANY gifts are doubtless given which IL "ouu ha'V
hesn a relief both to the donor and the recipient 10
have held cancelled. Even loving home tokens are
often made too great youthful resources Inc
writer well remembers little maid who toled WIN
anxious care for weeks give each member Oh 'he
family and even outside friends and relations some
little present made by her own clever fingers, anu
who when all hcr various packages were ted up
aec,ad and ready TO send burst into tears TOO utterly
tired out 10 enjoy the numerous gifts OF which she
herself the recipient.
This is obviously all wrong and no child should thus
he allowed 10 overburden herself. On the other Manu.
however II is a great help to the development VI
character 10 foster generous. warm hearted pe"S"
self denial and appll-