The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-02-20
In tho nnionrlo lnlands-No. /.
lE0pyffgh, l59l, By Ed9dr L WdkcnIan.l
tcEa! CorrtspOnAOlrf OF EN .is,orlrlcd Errgt.


Srketa! Correspondence Of GH Associated FrcIJ.
PALMA, Majorica, Jan. Eth these
days OF strong md swift atcamera ply
ing between England and all Mcditcr-
rancan ports, it is but a voyage OF two
nights and day from Gibraltar to the
city OF Palma, tho capital oitho Spanish
dependency and province OF Balearica,
comprising tho Balearic Islands; or, if
you are wintcring III Southwestern
Spain, you may journey in night from
Valencia or Barcelona TO this least visit
ed and most beautiful Of all Mediter-
ranean regions.
Your steamer is seldom out Of sight
OF some huge or tiny Mediterranean
craft, and there Is always consciousness
OF pleasant nearnoss OF other human in
forests and quiet and restful scnse OF
companionship upon this great land
locked sea, although 1t is longer than
the Atlantic Is broad between New
foundland and Ireland, I have mover
known or felt on other wators. How
over treaChorous the Mediterranean has
been to others, have mover seen its
luce save IN it's blandest, sweetest mood;
when its skies were fair, the sunshine
above it mild and loving, its 0ira zaph-
yrus and dreamiul, and its face as blue
and smiling as riit OF Juno,day heaven.
Then, too, before the tropic night set
ties soitly upon aca and land like a per
fumed, translucent cloud OF dnrkcning
pearl, there is spread before you such
reach OF grand and glorious coast-linc-
the real "Afric's coral strand" OF tran
sccndent beauty, and not tho dread
coast Of Tho old missionary hymn--as
renders true picturing impossible; the
whole chlngeiul panorama OF hcadand,
beach, forest, glittering village and
noble bay, backed along the ragged
southern horizon by tho eternal peaks
OF the Atlas heights, which even under
tropic suna soar above the clouds to the
region OF silenceg, ghostly and phantom
Jul with their crowns OF snow and ice.
Tho very mir upon this sea s odorous
as with thyme and balm. The fancy,
quickened by tradition and oriental
mysticsms, builds wondrous creations
surprising the widest and most
Snug i'll 4 steamer chair, one reclines
and dreams. Subtle essences as from
lotus flowers mingled with subtlcr rose
affairs touch the sense and bind in
sleep. Tho deck stewards must be
similarly enthrallcd, for you are never
rudely disturbed as on the Atlantic
liner; and through all the carcssful
night, whilo tho stars grow and glow
above, and the silent phosphorcscent
sea pulses and throbs in pale flames
beneath, you near this radiant haven OF
this radiant, stored sea.
TIE SUN Else.
Then for time all is still. The night
and sleep and languorous tropic airs
enfold and hold until the dawn has
como. The great steamer with her now
silent cnginerv, softly Juggling at her
anchor chain, has drifted with the tide
until her stately prov mods gracefully to
: tho quaint city upon the heights. Your
chair happens to stand amidships upon
the port side. There arc sweetest
Zephyrs playing through the riggings OF
OF tho curious craft upon the bay. These
kiss your face until your eyes open lazi-
ly, as ono who awalicns in regret at the
,dispellinS of q pleasing dream. And yet
they open as though you are but know
ing another dream. They awakcd upon
morning i'll Palma; morning SO really Il
dream, 80 dreamful reality, that no
painters art has ever caught single
recognition OF its glory.
Here, just rs the sun is rising, be-
tween the seas bed OF crimson and the
awakening city are swaying Oh the gen
tic tide hundreds OF strange and curious
craft, wild Conglomcrate OF the ma
rine architecture OF tho Mediterranean,
their yellow spars but n moment since
like giant reeds above the cleaning OF q
shadowy marsh, now pinked from tip to
socket with tho glorious sunlight, which
hints in its play upon their saudy en-
signs OF the lands where their homo
Ravens lie; while far out on the waters
horizon, rounding Cape Figuora behind,
comes tho morning fleet OF fisher-boats.
their sails OF every striking hue, and
the songs OF the fishers stealing acrosi
the distance in faint but melodious
rythm.
Here and there arc Turkish vessels
with tremendous single sails, square
built fore and ait like settlers log
cabin. Shores OF the clumsy felucoas
from Crete and the Ionian Islands, tho
chcbccs OF the Arabs, and the identical
grcat-boats OF the olden pirates, lie low
in the water roundabout, their half
n;sked Greek or Arab sailors, 1.-the of
limb and nut-brown OF face, yividly re-
calling those glorious days OF Barossa,
booty and blood. But Quainter than all
are the raro old tubs from Chioggia and
Venice, with the same high prows and
sterns they had in the days OF tho Doges,
They come with tho gluss OF Muano,
and carry back the corn, oil and wine OF
the Soller and Vademosa, and on tho
bow OF each craft is painted an etficy OF
tho Virgin, an endless supplication to
the waves against every form OF evil and
poril at sen. \
And there, facing the shining sea and
coloriul harbor scene, rises from tho
shore more gracefully than Naples, as
fair rs Alglers, as tropical in type and
seeming as Havana, the amphithoater-
like city OF Palma; once the brightest
pearl OF the seagirt isles; still, stately,
silent, beautiful; with tone and tint OF
tho Orient in its pinnacles and minar.
cts. lis domc-shaped belfries and its
weird and shadowy palms. Lovingly
contemplating the exquisite picture, its
romantic history old and new fiutters
iron, the hiding places OF memory and
troop clear and distinct into your mus
ings; even as tho morning doves OF
Palma sweep from the thousand shad.
owy homing inches OF its massive cathe-
dral, and, alighting on buttrcss, peak,
battlemont and spire, form professional
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