The morning news., 1892-02-22
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
And In What Attire She Dresses This
Variable Weather.
Copyright. 1921

/ uTaped with white crepe de chine. a bodice
cut in low, wide V. with gold lace revers,
so large as TO form a square yoke, aud
which IS carried up the shoulders and mar
70 wed down TO an edge which almost stands
/ up straight, large sleeves TO the elbows so
full as to fall in a great puff over a band of
crepe tied at the front; the Ddice covered
| with soft draping Of the crepe, which falls
over the right hip to the bottom of the SKIRT
and is embroidered with a fine scallop of
| gold at the edge; the bottom of the skirt
| trimmed with two rows OF marten
sable, with a narrow band of gold
embroidery between, a train that falls al
ost straight, but IS very full at the bot
tom; two bands to match the fur across the
| skirt to hold the drapery; white gloves.
edged with gold; dainty white slippers, with
gold trimmings. This is the sight that
greets my fair young dehutante as she
stands and surveys herself before a tall
mirror. And she smiles with approval and
satisfaction, tor she has planned 1t all her
self, and it has giveu her more pleasure,
probably, than she will derive from the
| whole evening to come. And then she taxes
| out the cloak that will envelope the beauu-
full gown.
This is also brocade-Pompadour silk
brocade. The front is cut and fitted like a
cape. the fullness being plated. part in the
shoulders, the remainder in the back under
yoke OF velvet covered with jet embroid-
cry. The whole cloak is edged with black
feather trimming, and is lined throughout
with gold. The high medici collar comes
we'll together in the front. SO that its fair
wearer shall be we'll protected against any
gusts OF cold air that might seek entrance.
Midwinter is about over, yet fur still
holds its own, although more as q trim
ming, perhaps, than an entire garment. 1t
would seem almost impossible to devise
anything new in the way of fur trimming,
and vet a bright young friend of mine has
| accomplished that task. She has come
| forth arrayed in squirrel fur that has a his
tory, for the squirrels were killed by her
| sweetheart when he went a-hunting She
bade him think of her when he sailed forth
with his companions, and he did, in a suO-
stantial way that ell girls appr eciate. He
sent her some handsome squirrel skins and
she strained every nerve to make both ends
of that fur meet. In the first place she lineG
her soft brown cloak with deep rich red,
and then edged the red with a narrow band
of the squirrel fur. IL went all around
from the top of the tails at the back
down to the edge, and around, up the front
to the neck, where IL widened into high
collar. Tnen she made a fiat muff lined
with red. with ribbons OF the Same color
that went round her neck and tied in
large bow on the left shoulder. There was
enough left then. by careful managing, to
make low, straight cap, with red ribbons
that came under her chin and were brought
up the back and fastened on the knot OF
curls. When the coat flies in the wind she
makes a great blaze of color, and the car
mine in her cheeks rivals the red that peeps
out all over her
/ saw a cloak the other evening which
was at once superb and yet extremely deli
cate. lt was worn by pure blonde, aud as
she entered the box at the theater the light
fell full on Its exquisite coloring. It was
little deeper than a cream and fell to her
feet perfectly plain, save that il had two
narrow rows of brown mink down the
front, and that, at the shoulders, there were
three short capes. full, each one Of which
was edged with the brown fur. AS she
threw it back | saw that IL was lined with
the palest turquoise blue, just the shade of
her gown.
saw another that afternoon. II was a
deeper shade. a true fawn, Of Bedford cord,
made shorter. II was unique in that it
was trimmed with tiny bands, scarcely
more than cordings. OF black astrakhan.
They were on each seam In the back, there
was one on each side In tbe front, and four
on each sleeve A small one on each hip
connected the wide pockets with the bands
at the back.
Wraps are gorgeous In their coloring,
which is growing more oriental every day.
There were three on Fifth avenue yesterday
that a great many people turned again to
look at. One was Eastern through
out, embroidered all over In the fine
gold work and bright colors
of the Japanese, which are impossible to
duplicate in this country. The embroidery
was set on dark-green velvet, and the wrap
was trimmed with deep green fringe with
heading of tiny balls in the bright color of
the embroidery. 1t was scarcely beautiful,
and one could not help but admire the cour-
age of the woman who wore it.
The second was deep shade of hello
trope, embroidered in black jet and gold
beads, The high collar was edged with
feather trimming. I mere was a large yoke
of jet and gold and embroidery, yet the
work was 80 foe that any possible sugges-
tion OF ''loudnessh about the garment was
entirely removed
The third fell in love with. It was in
such perfect harmony. The ground was
pale blister. and it was covered from top to
bottom with pattern of brown cords with
fiue interlaclngs of gold. This also had
high collar edged with feather trimming,
and a deep plain fringe to match the blister.
With all our novelties, the originality
upon which we pride ourselves, with all the
striking and even startling things that one
sees every day in the shops on the avenues,
where every one goes, there still remains a
certain similarity between all women one
meets, a resemblance that the most fertile
brain or most ingenious devices canaot
efface. For after all, one dares
not deviate TO any great ex-
tent from what is decreed by Dame
Fashion as "the thing" All cloaks are
long; all wraps are three-quarter length
and have high collars; all high collars have
feather trimmings; all dresses have trains
of exactly the same length, cut after ex-
actly the same pattern; all hats are ex-
tremely low in the crown, with wide brims
and something standing up very stiff and
straight near the back. And il one would
take his place behind row of women and
survey them from the shoulders down they
would all present very much the same ap-
pearance.
Although cloaks maintain their length,
capes are growing shorter, particularly at
the hips. where they reach just to the waist
line and no more; and on the occasional
warm. spring-like Days that come upon US
30 suddenly, sometimes Immediately after
day when the temperature has been very
neal zero. it is great comfort to have one
OF these little garments to slip on. They are
tight-fitting now and pointed long Ia front
with sleeves long and full.
Have you been invited to the very last
reception that is to be given before Lent,
and do you want TO wear something befit-
ting the occasionl IL 30 hearkeu TO my
words of wisdom so that you may appear
in dress that will be fair and sweet and
yet not too ostentatious For "coming
events cast their shadow before, (" you know,
and you want TO be just a little quister and
more sedate IN view Of the coming season.
II. 49, ksa rufIl af