Omaha daily bee., 1892-03-06
THE CRADLE OF LIBERTY.
BY MARK TW AIN.

That state OF things is ali changed. There
isn't mountain Ia Switzerland now that
hasn't ladder railroad or two UP Its back
like suspenders: indeed, some of them are
latticed with them, and two years hence all
of them will be- In that day the peasant OF
the high attitudes will have to carry lantern
whom he goes visiting In the night TO keep
from stumbling over railroads that have been
built since his last round. And also in that
day, IL there shall rcmain high-altitude
peasant whose potato patch hasn't railroad
through II, IL will maze him as conspicuous
as William Tell
However there are sonly two best ways to
travel through Switzerland: tho first best Is
afloat, the second best Is by open two-horse
carriage. One can come from Lucerne to
Interlaken over the Brunig by ladder-rail-
road In an hour or so now, but you can glide
smoothly through In a carriage in ten, and
have two hours for luncheon ut noon. For
luncheon, not for rest. There is no fatigue
connected with the trip. One arrives fresh
in spirit ana in person In the evening-no
fret In his heart, no Crime on his race, no
grit In his hair, not cinder IN MS eye. rus
Is the right condition OF mind and BODY, the
right and due preparation for the solemn
event which closes the day-stepping with
metaphorically uncovered head into the
presence of the most impressive mountain
mass that the globe can show-the Jungfran.
The strangers first feeling, when suddenly
confronted by that towering and awful appa-
rltion wrapped In its shroud of snow, Is
breath taking astonlshment. IL is as II heav-
ems gates had swung open and exposed the
throne.
1t is peaceful here and pleasant at Inter
laken. Nothing going on-at least nothing
but brilliant life-giying sunshine There are
floods and floods of that One may properly
speak OF 1t as "golne on" for it Is full OF the
suggestion of activity; the hight pours down
with energy, with visible enthusiasm. L his
is o good atmosphere to be in, morally as
we'll as physically. After trying the politi-
cal atmosphere OF the neighboring monarch
les it is healing and refreshing to breathe an
air that has known no taint OF slavery for
900 years, and to come among people whose
political history is great ana fine, superia-
lively great and fine, and worthy to be
taught in all schools and studied by all races
and peoples. For the struggle here though
out the centuries has not been in the interest
+, OF any private family, or any church, but In
the interest of the whole body OF the nation,
and for shelter and protection of all forms OF
belief. This fact is colossal. Ii one would
realize how colossal 1t is, and OF what dipnl-
ty and majesty, let him contrast 1t with the
purposes and objects of the crusades, the
siege of Troy, the wars of the Roses, and
T oth her historic comedies of that sort and slze
Last week was boating around the lake of
the Four Cantons, and saw Ruli and Altorf,
Ruiz is a remote little patch OF a meadow,
but do not know how any piece of ground
could he holler or better worth crossing
oceans and continents to see since II was
there that the great trinity OF Switzerland
joined hands six centuries ago, and swore the
oath which set their enslaved and insulted
country forever free. And Altorf Is also
honorable ground and worshipful, since 1T
was there that William, surnamed Tell,
(Which, interpreted, means 1.-The foolish
talker," that is to say tho too daring talker),
refused to bow to tiessler's hat. or late
years the prying student of history has been
dclighting himself beyond measure over a
wonderful find which he has made-to wit,
sons head. 10 hear the students lubilate
one would suppose that the question Of
whether Tell shot the apple or didn't was an
important matter, whereas 1t ranks in i'm
whether Washington chopped down the
cherry tree or didn't. The deeds of Wash
lngton the patriot are the essential thing, the
cherry tree incident is OF no consequences.
apple from his sons head would
merely prove that he had better
nerve than most men, and was as skillful
with bow as a million others who preceded
and followed him, but not a whit more
But Tell was more and better than q mere
marksman, more and better than mere cool
head, he was type; he stands for Swiss
patriotism: in his person was represented q
whole people; his spirit was their spirit-the
spirit which would bow to none but God-the
spirit which said this in words and confirmed
1t with deeds. There have always been Tells
in Switzerland, people who would not bow.
There was snfficiency of them at Ruli,
there were plenty of them at Merten, plenty
at Granson, there are plenty today. And tho
first OF them all-the very first, earliest
banner-bearer Of human freedom in this
wOrld-was not a man, but woman, Stanf-
facher's wife. There she looms, dim and
great, through the halo Of the centuries, de-
livering into her husbands charmed ear that
gospel of revolt that was to bear fruit in the
conspiracy of Ruli and the birJh OF the first
free government that the world had ever
seen.
Thursday, Sept. lO-From this Victoria
hotel one looks straight across fiat of
trlf1ing width to lofty mountain barrier,
which has a gateway in it shaped like an
inverted pyramid. Beyond this gateway
arises the vast bulk of tire Jungfrau, spot
The gateway in the dark colored barrier
makes u strong frame for the great picture.
The somber snow and the glowing snow
pile are startlingly contrasted. 1t Is this
frame which concentrates and emphasizes
the glory Of the Jnngfrau and makes it the
most engaging and beguilng and fascinating
spectacle that exists in the earth There are
many mountains Of snow that are as lofty as
the Jungfreu and as noby proportioned. but
they lack the frame; they stand at large:
neighboring domes and submits, and their
grandeur is diminished and fails of effect.
1t is good name Jungfrau-Virgin. Moth
ing could be winter, nothing could be purer
noLhing could be saintlier of aspect AT 6
yesterday evening the greater intervening z
barrier, seen through faint blush haze,
seemed made of AR. and substauceless, SO
soft and rich it was, so shimmering where
the wande ring lights touched 1t, and so dim
whore the shadows lay. Apparently it was
dream stuff, a work OF the imagination,
nothing real ABOUT 1t. The TINT was green,
slightly varying shades of 1t, but manly
very dark. The sun was down-as far as
that barrier was concerned, but not for the
Jungfrau, towering into the heavens beyond
the gateway. She was soaring confagra.
tion OF binding white light.
The First Walking Delegate.
II Is said that Fridolin (the holy Fridolin),
asaint now, but formerly a missionary, gave
the mountain Its gracious name. He was AN
1rishman, son Of an Irish king, of whom
there were $4,000 reigning In Cork county
alone In his time, 1000 years ago. 1t got sc
that they could not make a living, there was
SO much competition and wages got cut so.
Some OF them were out of work months at Q
time. with wife and little children to feed
and not a crust In the place. At last par
ticularly severe winter fell upon the country,
and hundreds OF them were reduced to men
dioancy. and were to be seen day after day In
the pitterest weather, standing barefoot In
the snow. holding out their crowns for aims
1-A1