The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-02-25


Spain and Algeria seem to have formed a
charming composite in architecture and
people. The hugeness Of walls Is every
where remarkable Everything Is con-
structed AS II for eternal lasting. No street
Is beautiful, but not one fails Of pictur-
sequences that Is often weird and grotesque.
Every structure possesses in some portion,
and frequently IN the most unexpected po-
sit.On, some wonderful and ornate orna-
mentation- Tiny squares with whipping
fountains are set in all sorts OF odd cor
ners. A huge church may tower on the
one side Of each Of these.
Alta corner may stand or project from a
curious and seemingly unnecessary wall,
massive carved facade or gargoyle from
which the water Is endlessly flowing. At
another side a mass OF vines and verdure
canned TO the sight by far domes or spires
Il only visible. Outiutting at another spot,
the angle OF some huge building seems TO
have pushed Us way half across the plaza.
and with its galleries balconies and ire
rnendous overrcaching roof is ready TO
pitch headlong into the open space beneath
While another sunny side shows only a
roof Of red tiles sloping like a tent cover
unmerced by single aperture, from an
interminable height wholly 90 the edge of
q stone. cloistcrlike porch beneath.
In all open spaces are palm trees And
these rising from courts, lifting their
spreading fronds high above roofs from
darkencd thoroughfares, often leaning. like
the tower Of Pisa. ont Of quaint old courts,
and here and there being preserved by an
entire building constructed around them,
lend a dreamful, mystic, almost lonesome
and pathetic coloring to every massing Of
structures upon which the eye may rest
To me the palm, whether / have seen it in
southern Spain, in Sicily, in Morocco, in
Algeria. in Cuba, or here in Palma, whose
name had its origin in the former extraor-
binary number of palm trees upon the
island, has always been an emblem of
dolorous isolation and inexprcssible loneli
ness 1t hints of the camel, the Bedoun,
the desert. In art, in story, i'm fact, it ever
suggests the endless hopelessness and inn
FEASIBILITY Of the barriers between the
races that subsist upon and rest beneath
10, and those who know aud love the ma
pie, beech and oak.
1t is a city of steep ascents and III paved
streets, but Of witching old bits Of curious
architecture and perhaps as lovely and
splendid interiors as any Moorish or semi
Moorish city can show All the houses re-
tain features of Moorish taste and evil
dences Of medieval forms Of habitation
and living. They are not higher than
three or four stories at best. More have
but the ground floor with an upper one
and an attic called a p0Tcbo. Invariably
the cntradas 10 the interior are studies in
carved arabesques and fanciful Moorish
designs. Balconies are as universal and
as huge or rs lacelike and fragile as in
Granada or Seville. A marked peculiarly
Of all structures is their huge projecting
roofs spread out into penthOuses and fire.
Qucntly most fascinatingly worked out
and decorated. And the lowlicst home in
all Palma is charming in its patio or court
that loveliest Of all interior arrangement
around which Moslem or Christian home
can be built.
Every one Of these courts is a place Of
beauty, sunshine and song. In every one
there is the melodic sound of water from
running lefty or fountain. In every one,
whether glitteriug with slender marble
columns and daintily wrought arches, or
softened in tones with messy stone and
crumblng tiles, there are waving ferns
and flowers. Vines Chamber wantonly over
entabature, arch and balustrade. The
alcobas Of all living in these abodes are
within the sound Of friendly calling voice.
And not one is without birds of gay plum
ace and birds with endless songs. l often
wonder why the rich of our own land do
not build their homes like these. A dome
Of glass instead Of the blue Mediterranean
...fF r.~ffrfrnI Iluuflh fna
pall-liko hangings and whitening shadow
places from your stufIy homes, and learn
to live in the Ifegiving light like the
Latin and the Moor. Put your great New
England freplaces opposite your arched
entrances, and make Of these sunlit open
courts places of beauty, hghtsomeness,
melody and homeside joy.
Only when the feast and professional
DAYS come IS Palma a gay and brilliant
CITY At all other times it Is sunny, rest
ful. slumbrous and almost silent. Its street
folk are the same as Of any other southern
Spanish city There IS greater content
here No one is IN a hurry. Among the
lowlv folk there is less excitability. greater
good nature, and the latter Is Of the gen.
tie. not the uprOarious sort. Here, as IN
/ Madrid. is your lechero or milkman, who
drives his COWS IN from the country and
milks for you before your door. The dull
cer0 or seller Of sweets, with his songful
call by day and his tinlling bells by night,
is here The cOcherO or cabman, with com
| Portable landaulet and pretty diligence,
viii serve You faithfully without guile
/ The merCanCliste or MOTION peddler, the
aQuadOr or water seller, the rugatero OF
| huckster, who has the sociaDle habit OF
entering shop or home with his dOnkeys
and paniors; the zapatero or archway shoe
| maker and the latOnerO or tinker, whom
found 20 be Spanish Gypsy are all here IN
their lazy, pleasant and picturesque ways.
BY day Palma seems TO the stranger 10
be continuously experiencing something
like a soft dreamful buzz Of activity ~ ali
human affairs. Perhaps it IS the reaction
after some great business tension, you ru-
inmate. But no; each day is as the day
before il. Everything Is gently done. NO
one is astir before 10 in the morning.
Then the pretty market attracts beyles OF
beautiful women and maids This Is FOL
lowed by the nOOntime siesta. The shops
are bright and brilliant until evening, out
everything Is quiet and restfUi within. IN
the evening the cafes are ablaZe with
light; the parks and paseOs are tnronged
with gay caballerOs and lovely senorltas;
Still there Is q hush and tranquility IN all
sounds and seemings.
As the night advances, in every quarter
or the oldeu city is heard the mandolin ana
guitar, tremulOus, pathetic sweet IKE the
6cno OF real tones rather than the vibrant
notes themselves Zephyrus breezes pulse
from Afrlcis shores The shining rocks