The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-01-28

ana IL ~ ne' <Qif all places IN foious"' .''''
her peauu ~ women can be seen AZ .nci,
best. i a., faces are less langnorous ana
sensua sloan those Of Spain. 1hey may
not .,we the sauciness ana nasn o' .ne
Ere .,h The melancholy OF the itilan
MON is lacking: but they are stiu beau
All and wholesome women, with sweet
a. ~ mouth, iquidty OF eyes and
f,{odlv and honest light IN the whole race
tbat compensate IN genuine admiration
a,d rospcct any loss on the line OF sensual
" sentimental interest.
Resides these there Is the interesting
praca da figueira. or flower market, ono
nj the most attractive places in Lisbon
the Campo Grandc, over mile in length
lust at the edge Of the city, where the rld'
ing and driving of the aristocracy may b.
seen: the Campo dc Santa Anna, where IN,
noted Lisbon rag fair is held weekly INT
Praca de sac Pedro d'Alcantar. mag
niGcently shaded promenade. with sheu
grotto and fountains. overlooking the CITY
and harb0r, and a score Of lesser pracaa
squares. gardens and parks, where the way
farcr NAV tarry, rest and enjoy. LISBON J.
r,eoped by perhaps 10000 souls. None %
it's parks can compare with Central PARK.
New York. or Lincoln and Jackson PARKS.
Chicago But have never visited any
city in Europe in which have iouhd 50
great number Of tiny resort places cacn
different from any other. and every one &c
interesting in its separate Individuality
beauty and charm.
Alphabetically Lisbon in detail IS vast
" more interesting than beautiful. ~
YOU approach it from the sea with lE
domes and towers all flauked by castcl
lated heights and purple mountains be
hind. il is imposing and grand. When you
come To wander within il yOu are never rs.
fonisbed or even greatly impressed by IT.
edifces. it, churches are less interesting
than those Of any other city or equal size IT,
Europe. The Church Of the Heart OF Jesus
ON the summit of Estrella hill, IN Imitation
Of St Peters ~ Rome without the colon.
made is the most pretontious IN Lisbon.
The Church Of $40 Domingo, the see oi the
cardinal patriarch. near the Rocio. is vast
in pronortions The mortuary church Of
Sac Vicente is interesting chiefly from it,
containing in curions gilt boxes the re
mains of the illustrious dead OF the royal
bouse OF BragAnca The tiny Cnurch OF
San RoGue. with It's famous Chapel oil ~.
John. attracts all visitors on account Of It's
marvellous mOs;ncs. These, forming the
hack and sides Of the structure. arc copies
in vcritable size Of Raphael Urbiuos de
scent OF the Holy Ghost" GuidO's 'Annnn
citation" and Michael Angeles Baptism
Of Christ" The wonderful perfection OF
this work is shown in the fact that from
any ordinary point Of observation no diiier'
ence between them and the originals can
be detected. More curious still, the cntirt
chanel and its interior decorations were
first set up in Rome. blessed by Pope Bene
diet XIV. taken down and transferred t.
its present site. It's cost has been millions
and there is probably not IN the whole
world such treasure in art work, silver
gold and precious stones, in sacred edlnct
OF equal dimensions.
IL Is the charm of extreme contrast and
endless change which holds and makes one
love old Lisbon. There are no TWO streets
pracas. churches, public buildings, shops
or homes alike. Away from the half dozen
modern business streets, it is almost the
same Lisbon that Columbus knew. Here
is n shadowy shop Of one story where grinlY
men prope about among gritty piles OF
charcoal. The next building may be
three or five story structure housing the
richest Of wares whose upper stories are
fancifullydecor in gorgeous paints and
gifts.
Next 10 this on one sideof a dark passage
iollv cobblers beat ceaseless staccat0s,
cutler grinds and hammers on the other,
and away in there q stream of light shows
exquisite stairs leading TO some inclosed
court where home Of opulence Is en-
bedded in vines and roses. Everywhere
are ponderous base and arch, huge column
and tremendous entablaturc, often sup
nortiun buildings whose insigni1icince Is
ludicrously startling
In many of the older public ediiices the
architecture is Moorish, or scmi-Moorish,
and the facadcs are often ilanked by square
towers and dimnutive Saracenic domrs
The general plan Of shop and abode in the
ancient portions Of the city Is Che shop be
low and the home above; or the lower
story is used as a sort of entrada 10 walled
in home structures in the rear or the hab-
itatiOn above In the latter case these EN-
tradas are temporary shops for itirerant
cobblers. cutters saddlers and the like, or
lounging places for beggTs, dOnkeys and
goats But however unsavory may seem
the ground floor Of or the street entrance
TO any structure the upper stories Of tho
same, or the pretty home nests behind, az
ford abundant compensation III pictur-
esque groupings and scenes
Balconies are rs universal as in Havana
Valladold, Madrid or Seville. Some pro-
feet from supports Of carved stone, others
! rest with airy insecurity upon fancifuliy
wrought timbcrs and still others may be
! seen in the daintiest patterns into which
! brass and iron may be wrought. Many are
! latticed, and in this lattice work are odd
! little slides and gates Behind these the
! fair Portuguese women eat their dainty
salads, of which they are inordinately fond,
and sip their wines and ices. And from a
partially opened lattice as you pass You
will catch glances from lovely eyes and as
| often smiles and coquettish looks from
roguish faces.
As one passes toward the outskirts Of
Lisbon all of that suggestive OF the home
Is pleasamterstill. There is a hint Of snug
ness in the high surrounding, vine covered
walls of yards and courts. Here the open
court of the Spaniard and the Moor becomes
| more common and more beautiful 1t
shelters the home gatherings ana belong
ings of the average family. All its mem
beers are more or less within IT,, or within
reach of voice from it. Many lovely flow
ers and clambering vines light up the place
in winter rs well as in summer days. The
murmurous fall of water is always heard,
for no patio is without its fountain. And
poor indeed is the home in old Lisbon that
- D. L. }. -