The morning news., 1892-03-27
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
THE SPRING NOVELTIES THAT ARE
ATTRACTING HER ATTENTION.

NCSlAftktttsl
NEW YORK, March 26.-Women are all
shot these days. That is, when they are
gowned in dainty silks. We look at one
from certain view point, and say TO our
selves. There's a very pretty old blue
silk" but she turns suddenly, and we find
ourselves looking, not at blue. but a dull
gold silk. | saw yesterday some of the
daintieSt colors and designs in shot silks
Ihey would look exquisite made into tea
gowns with long, straight lines and soft
plaitings. The shading was made by fine
silk thread covering the body Of the silk
closely in minute squares. There was dull
pink run with dull gold, pinky heliotrope
with white pink, dull blue with gold, deep
salmon with very pale salmon, celestial
blue with white. Glacs silks are almost
prettier yet A soft fawn was striped at
wide intervals with narrow white satin,
and in between were graceful sprays of
pink roses and green leaves Afternoon
teas are blessing and a refuge during the
enforced quiet of Lenten days, and these
soft silks make brilliant clusters as the fair
sex gather about tiny tables and talk know
ingly on every subject between the sips Of
tea.
You would never believe, would you, that
time would come when women would
stand, and gaze, and admire-just as If il
were bonnet-nothing but petticoat9
And, mind you, not a dainty uuderskirt
with soft ruffies and lace and feather
stitching-for that would be perfectly nat
ural and proper-but an outside petticoat,
an ulderskirt. And that is what l saw a
number Of women doing, and | didn't blame
them bit; all l did was to join their ranks
and add my own small 'Ah l'of admiration to
their numerous ones. For the skirts were
SO pretty. They, too, were of shot silk.
most of than and had f,,n
ruff1es at the edge. Some of them were
made OF striped silk, trimmed with deep
lace Tufttes caught up every once in a while
In small knot. One was black striped in
red and had a red ruffie, softened by black
lace, over. This was a little too gorgeous
for most OF the women, but the pale silks
pleased them all immensely. OF course, in
selecting one Of these, you must match the
gown 1t is to be worn with.
The effect Is very much better when the
same tone is preserved throughout, espe-
oiRlly as the underskirts are very much
oftener exposed to view since the trained
skirts have resumed their sway over femS
mime hearts and figures.
Nothing has as yet appeared to supersede
chiffon. In fact 1t is so soft, and drapes 50
prettily, that it leaves little to be desired
w hole fronts of fancy bodices are made Of 1t
now. Over pale blue silk loose chiffon vest
Is just as pretty as it can be. Shirred at the
neck and waist, made so full that it hangs
over at the waist almost like blouse, deep
rutt1e Of point lace over it at the neck, another
one. narrower. coming from under the full
ness, at the waist, gives charming effect
and Is especially becoming to a very thin
figure. Another one is folded over-this
one in pink-surplice fashion, except that
the surplice stops when 1t gets to the center
OF the bodice instead of going under the
arm, and is there rolled together in loose
folds. Out of these folds comes a dainty
lace edge in wheel pattern Of point, en-
broidered right into the chiffon. The full,
gauzy sleeves are also edged with this lace
What effect could be prettier under the soft
light of a acandelabral
or course the latest way of wearing the
hair Is to~have it parted in the middle and
waved softly down over the brows. But
unfortunately the style is very trying and
suits so few people that we poor folks who
are made ridiculous by such a style look
around for something more becoming. And
Dame Fashion was very lenient this time.
She foresaw the terrible consequences that
would ensue il all women should follow
this style, and so she added some othors
that are so graceful and pretty that almost
any one can adopt them. The ribbon
idea, for instance, has so many varie-
eaes that it can be made to suit
almost any coitfure. Here is new Greek
style that ribbon looks very graceful with.
After waving the entire hair in big, soft
waves, gather it very loosely, high at the
back of the head, then divide it in two
Now each of these portions must be made
into wide puffs, one under the other and
narrowing as they near the neck. The
very ends cluster in small curls at the bot
tom OF the coiffure, and if you can manage
TO have another curl as the top, the effect
will be prettier still Then from out the
soft curls on your forehead comes the mar
row band Of ribbon which goes
around straight and Is fastened into
the puffs at the back. at the
right side is a ffy-away bow, which adds
sufficient piquancy to the arrangement.
Another Greek style is made by extra
heavy. smooth coils around the head, and
the center, OF course, extends outward from
the head TO some extent. Through this
twisted pin. the bigger the better is stuck.
The front hair is curled backward as far as
the coil. Though the coil is firm and tight
yet the hair must first be gathered very
loosely. even so loosely as to fall lightly
over the tips of the ears.
Our climate is getting SO very variabI Ie
that In winter we daren't put away our
summer garments altogether, and in sum
mer our winter ones are often very COM
Portable. 1t is even worse these spring
days. In the morning we get up shivering
and don something warm and com Portable.
ADOut tuToS OF FOUR nOurS aIter ward, when
the sun has been shining strong and full we
have to change our gown in great hurry,
and there IL the greatest incongru-
ity, often, between the attire of different
strollers in the park this variable season.
Somebody that started early is mantled close
ly in furs; somebody that was wise and wait
ed is looking cool and comfortable in neat
spring attire. Isn't this a pretty costume
for a morning walk under the fresh, tender
green just peeping out from the tree aud
BUSIEST 1t goes SO prettily with all the
spring coloring even with the brown earth
under ones feet. Dull pink-not old rose,
but dulier shade than that-very light,
something like blush softened, of soft fine
goods; skirt plain and straight, not bell,
not even a train. 1t just clears
the ground 1t is trimmed
with two narrow bands of pale
yellow The waist is also all plain, except
for full front of yellow chiffon to match
the skirt trimming. The belt at the waist
widens In the front and runs down into a
little point. If the sun is very warm you
may carry your pale yellow mousQuetaires.
Your hat is almost covered with folds of
yellow chiffon, and dull pink feather falls
carelessly over it, coming from underneath
big pink bow at the back that has stream
ers that fall down to the waist. If you go
out in this costume and it is accompanied
by q fresh complexion, you will be es fair
as all nature is about you, and tho very
birds will twitter soft nothings to YOU as
you pass EVA A. SCHUBERT.