Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-11-30

shoulders Loose wrappers have the waist
cut in the same way, with the skirt cut on,
but in measuring for loose wrapper au
allowance of six inches longer than 1t APP
parently requires should be made mt the
bottom, and this afterward can be pinned
up to come just right. as skirts of wrap
pers somehow take up" Unexpectedly.
The side seams must be gored, and fan of
one breadth of the material should be set
in with the back seam
Princess dresses are simply basques with
skirts, and by drafting the basque, follow
ing the indication of the lines, always allow
ing any slant to fall backward, a perfect
fitting princess will be the result. In
princess the skirt should be long also, and
only hemmed or trimmed when the whole
is sewn, SO that it may not take up and be
too short. Riding basques are made on the
same lines, with the sole difference of rigid
plainness in trimming, and position
backs, which are formed by allowing the
back forms to extend longer and the fronts
cut shorter than ordinary basques The
little positions at the back are faced all
the way up with the material, and two
silk buttons are put at the waist line like
those on mems coats. Jackets are cut on
the same general lines as the basque, only
half an inch larger on every seam, and as
much longer as is desired. Pockets can be
added or not, and any preferred style Of
trimming put on. One dart only-the
back one--is ever added to jackets Bone
is necessary if one prefers it straight.
Blazers are cut in the same general style,
but without darts and rather narrower
across the chest. The length and width
depend upon individual taste. Plain
leg o. mutton sleeves. Rows of stitching
form the most suitable finish to both blaz-
ers and jackets Blouses are cut just like
the plain gathered waist, but from the
under arm sleeve line they should measure
twelve inches and have plain hem.
through which is drawn tape or elastic
to gather them so that they can fall over
meeting the skirt.
In finishing off riding habit basque it is
customary to have the lining of stout linen,
with the seams pressed fiat and boned as
usual but it Is not necessary to finish the
seams off SO neatly, as lining of quilted
satin is sewn in and neatly felled over all
the seams.
Tailor made gowns depend for thei.
beauty upon the exactness of every line
and every stitch. Every seam must be
pressed fiat before another is sewn, and
then when the whole Is finished a final
pressing should be given it, Not wrinkle
should form upon the waist Whereve"
the seams finish like in a position basque,
an arrowhead of silk Is worked, as also at
the corners of pockets. Skirts for tailor
gowns are just now cut sheath fashion,
with all the fullness In fan plating at
the back and with several rows of stitch
ing around the hem of the skirt. They
are frequently made without lining, par
ticularly when of serge or cloth, and
faced at the bottom. The facing is made
of wigan, overlaid with linen, and this
again covered with alpaca, all stitched to-
gether and faced on like any facing, leav-
ing the edge of the dress next the ground.
A narrow braid is put on fat under this,
but it does not show from the outside. But
with the return of cooler weather Innings
or foundations will be used, and they can
be cut and sewn up with the skirt seams,
or separate as before, In which case the
facings and braid go on the lining, and the
skirt is hemmed. If stitching is to take
prominent part a doubled piece of flannel
should be laid under the place, and where
the goods are stitched the seams show very
prettily.
No person can do good work without
tools, and the home dressmaker ought to
have one Of those little frames to hang
skirts on for the purpose of draping them.
The foundation skirt is thrown over it,
and the dressmaker wants to fashion
''wrinkled front" This, simple as it APP
pears, is really the hardest thing to do.
The only way to get 1t right Is to
take the piece of goods and bring one end
up from the floor, where the rest lies and
pin it with the fold to the center of the
front at the waist Then bring the two sell
wage edges up to the hip waist line
- 81. Ill Col 1lv oti al
ing pins In to hold them until ready to sew
them. About three deep plaits on each
hip will form, falling forward. The bot
tom then can be tackled along a basting
following the line Of the skirt. The top
should then be trimmed away, all the while
keeping the pins In the plaits. and then
these should be basted and finally sewn
down neatly with buttonhole looping
The bottom can then be cut around and
finally hemmed or faced, rs preferred. and
the back draperies or breadths sewn on,
but don't let those plaits come undone or
you will never get'them back in the same
place.
The waist varies from twenty-five to
thirty-two inches. and the top should
therefore be graded so that all the six
pieces will make the required number Of
Inches, allowing the back breadth only
two inches, as il should always be brought
into that compass by plaits or gathers.
II the wearer Is very stout woman or
has high stomach. the top Of the front
breadth should be followed out one inch
TO one and half to throw the fullness for
ward, and the bottom should be as much
longer In the center. II a slender figure It
can be left straight. II for sheath skirt
the seams at the top must be fitted to the
figure, but skirts on this plan have had
their bcst day. and draperies are coming in
OLIVE HARPER.