New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-02-28
THE FASHIONS.
NEW CLOAKs-PRETTY AND QUEER GOWNS.
BOyNEIs AND HATS.

There are already many noteworthy changes In wraps
which point to the coming OF decided hoVehes IN the
next six months In the general cut ana contour OF
outside garments. One Of the changes u tendency
"a dispense with the many seams which nave been used
NJ the hack There are many whole-baek coats with
M s,ons nj NIL nt the back tan ouraecously uey and
upbecomlng fashion, or with French back with scam
only I'm the other coats dispense Win the centre
seam in the back and retain the 500 seams "heh are
frequently elongated TIL they reach the shoulder seam
The Vatican coat, which has the large "a'nh" pi'a'
familiar ON the figures # the Dresden shcphefncsses
| and paIntlngs OF the Vatican period Is new shape
~ the season. Where this Vatican fold Is not used
cascade of loops ard ends 81 MORE nppoh Is us'o on
the backs OF coats and called the Vatican DOW ms
abundant drapery OF the upper part OF the dress Is rem
deed essential to relieve the severity CT the long pain
skirts For the same reason, the exaggerated seeve
IA tcn retained and outside jackets that are shown
are often profusey braided with touch OF bronze on
| brown coats and OF god on black coats
II Is anticipated that great many mantes Will be
worn These are generally furnished with MI OK
black or cream colored lace around the shohhers 10
outline q high pointed yoke, which is finished at The
neck NV a na,fng collar TIE heavy meshch lace IN
| craan white ca.d Genoa or In black when 10
known os Venan guipure" or chiffon loce'l Is used
! on these nantes. Tan-coorcd or ecri man''es arc
trimmed with ecu lace white, black or dark NANTES
are finished with a fall Of black hce these ni'htis
usually drape the figure to several inches oeio" uhs
|
OF the peasant cloaks 81 a few years aeo' oouoie
aounce of the material Of the mantle outlines the yoke
of some NANTES I'm place OF the fall or Hce 1hese
founces are SIX and seven inches deep ana ae eehef
ally bound with ribbon and finished with clustered loops
and ends OF ribbon in the centre OF the back Just peiow
the yoke and In front. oxpeated border OF riDoon
then edges the high harng collar and extends down
| both sides Of the front
Pllsse cloth and bedford cord are both shown IN 'a
bronze and other dark colors, ms well as In ock fr
coats feature OF these coats is the handsome hnhs
Of Qlace or angeabc silk. These Silks may line tle
entire coat or merely the fronts. Handsome blaek
cheyiot coats braided with touch Of gold braid are lined
with black surah seeded with gold cOlored dots The
new coats are generally OF medium length, double
brea sted and the Of simple plain coats they are
finished with buttons of notified pearl
There Il no tendency toward bouifant draperies at
the hips Of the new dresses thus far shown. The backs
| OF all gowns remain extremely fun and long and
In some the edge Of the bell skirt Is exaggerated
| TO point In the centre u the back. All seams are
dispensed With In the newest skirts - that II becomes
merely matter OF conjecture where the skirt Is sewn
together even the bias IN the centre Of the back
is often omitted and under one Of the plcats Is
| substituted for H. narrow border OF Iassementene
and ostrich plumes. or Il open Jet pasementere over
color or narrow border OF fur not over two inches
wide edges the skirts which now being made up FOR
SPRING or else the skirt perfectly plain at the edge,
|
on chevio dress The border OF the dress Is usually
back or Of some color in 10 the dress. Elastic
wool, Ike ladies' cloth Of a fine, smooth quality. Is
being used rs reaction ron the multitude Of corded
and figured goods at present offered In the shops ana
promises to find favor among weLdressed people for
street and carriage wear.
| Crcpon cloths in the fine ueux rose Baltic hnes'
thyme puppies violet and other rich coors are being
made up In tea-gowns with full Vatican backs and vide
| trimmings Of Genoa lace The soft, dull finish OF
the crepon makes It especially adapted TO house wear
and IL will probably be more used for this purpose than
for general street Marpue purple deep shade
Of mauve In grayfsh tones is especially rich shade
| In cloth and Is effectively trimmed with black.
hand some dress N this color recently exhibited was
simply edged around the long bell skirt With an inch
border Of black ostrich feathers headed By beafins
OF black Jet A long Louis XIV coat, Trimmed Around
shoulders with black ostrich feathers and Jet To
outline IA round yoke and bordercd around the skr'e
formed tho bodice. The high collar and sleeves OF the
| dress were bordered with the same narrow edge q
| ostrich feathers and Jet
| Anoher spring gown OF champa gne coored cloth
was combined with EPSON green moirc. bright apple
| green which yelled with ccru Genoa lace.
panel Of lace over green set In the front Of thc
skirt folded vest OF the lace finished The front
Of the bodice and full skirts Of green MORE yelled
| by II deep nounce OF lace, finished the edge \
feature Of this dress Is the French back. which Is
fitted by IN the centre Of The waist and by 'ido
seams coming fur back under the arms. giViug mo
| effect OF two broad forms such waist as
this Is ouly becoming 20 very slight figure but Is
shows one of the eccentric ways IN which waist seams
! arr fitted More frequently this arrangement j. re-
vciSed because il is n style more becoming 70 INC
| figure. The centre Is then Omitted aud TO
side seams extended to the shoulders and 'lop"i
| until they reach within inch and a half or two
Inches OF each other at the waist line. High sulder
seams remain "A feature OF all the new bodicieS. and
sleeves continue high on the shoulders. except In
! plain tailor made dresses. when they somewhat
| lower Jacket fronts remain I'm great favor.
sleeves extend well over The shoulders and collars
are lAgh and plain. Passementcres Of Jet, either
solid or Yelling color Ike turquoise blue EPSON
green. used dresses Of cloth more than on SIR
| Nnllinors say that Jet bonnet with touch Of
| color Will be used in street dress than any
| other though there are many hats OF fancy straw.
chip and Milan. novelty Of the season f. comb
| nation Of Jet with straw bugles, such were used
| dozen years ago. \ little transparent bonnet Of
straw buglcs and JET Is pquantly trimmed with straw
colored ribbon OF MORE and aigTette Of jet ana
| straw bugles pendant fringe OF straw and jet
borders the edge Of the little pendant fringe
of this kind face trimming Of dull, green grasses
| or OF hanging buds Of some similar arrangement
| edges great mnny OF tic new bonnets Dun 'rH
green the name for rcs,da this season. Is very
much used In combination with wood brown and yioe.
| color. An oid French combination OF color, one "
those daring attempts TO hanoIhzc queer col9rs ~hiJn
| green and violet purple. Many Of The large tuscan
| hats trimmed with pale silveiy blue staa
OF >Clin" dc ~Oie caught Two or Tire times
| with clusters Of the long >temmcd purple viOlctS ID
| Russia. Combinations Of hcns.il ana black are
| sometimes seen. An airy little bonnet formed OF
pleat.d fringe VI crepe dc lne. Il bDrdercd win
| little curs Of black ostrich feathers, shirTsd into
| narrow crown with wide brtm and surrounded by
| Hat wreath Of pink roses and trimmed WIN msh
trimming OF black Osti Ch feathers In spite Of the
materials used, IL il merely airy correction Of
| hat suitable for some elaborate OCCASION where Q
| becoming apology for bonnet Is more conventional
! than "A substantial head covering.
The new miNe, srws noteworthy for the ne
| of some emphatic cOh. Bright blue. Ial green W
yellow nged with neutral colOred brids