The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-02-18

TAvrHA. Portugal, Jan. My Galiegan
guide. servant, companion and friend non
est Dobrado. became 20 enamored Of our
lettering sort Of wanderings that on iea''
ing Beta, I had no difficulty in overcoming
his scruples against travelling on foot Anu
40 our way TO the southern seacoast Oh
Portugal. perhaps 80 miles by the WIN"
inos of the Quaint old thoroughfares OF the
country. Was made from Beja III THIS nc
Ightful tanner.
In M strange land have I walked that
distance with such a continuous SENSE u
elation NJ interest. There are early Octo-
rd,ys IN opr own land which all these
DAYS and nights recalled-days when the
verdure is still rich upon .he trees when
che aftermath has pushed above the STUB
ble Of the fields and spread an emerald
Garnet above the after harvest sere; when
xkies az clondless and Of wondrous depth
of blue. and when an aroma that hints Of
fruit or Of vine is in the bracing air; even
Sngs when the whole sky is ablaze from the
setting Of round red suns, that seem 20
wait hinge and glorious before plunging be
meath the purple pillows Of the west, and
nights when the cleaning Of lights from
farms and hawlcts quickenst the footstepof
bciated wanderers and uncOnsciously make
more eagerall home gatherings where fire
sides are already taking on a bit OF the
CHEEKY winter glow.
This is the only winter central and
-. D,.fv4,.1 lvgrr WfIara - a ton
der citation in IT,. You uncOnsciOusly
breathe great drafts Of the eXhilaratlng
air. Your head is erect and you walk in
fine, strong strides. Then there are count
less sights and scenes which charm and en-
thrall. Of cloud capped sierra, OF heath GOV
cred moor, Of houndless forest, of valley
landscape, OF mOuutain side hamlets strung
together rs on "a gaudy thread by strange
professions, Of huge old windmills as IN
Holland. Of gigantic water wheels creaklng
ard SWINGING and oxen circling about them
in endless tread. Of walled in farm homes
built rs if 10 withstand siege. and Of every
form OF peasant labor and pastime, always
of deepest interest because tellingthe story
OF everyday life and living OF the humble
folk of any land, upon whose labor and lives
hlltN al III JUL NJ "h'""
superstructure OF any nation is laid.
A SUMMER land in which TO travel does
not exist. Hospitality is universal and in.
tense. 1t is so extraordinary a character
istic among all classes that it often be
comes an impediment 20 progIessl IN travel
Between Evora and Tavira-about go
miles by road-we were literally compelled
TO enter more than 10 homes. In a dozen
of these we were quartered for the night,
and in all the rest refreshment was offered
and partaken of. Most interesting of all
were the visits TO ruinOus old mOnastcries
IL often seemed that we must have beer
espied mt a distance Of miles. for IN many
instances some ambling old %servitOr was
sent to meet us, or again a kindly faced
friar halted us at the roadside, and pre-
cisely as if the visit were prearranged con
Quoted us TO his monastery, often a little
and pinched habitation where less than a
score OF the order seemed to be gaining a
livelihood. The welcome and benedictions
at parting were always of a character TO
convey the idea that our coming had placed
our host under inexpressible obligations,
while the eagerness Of these mountain side
monks TO gather the meagerest knowledge
of the outer worlds affairs and activities
was often touching and pathetic in the ex
treme.
Friar, farmer and peasantiwere alike in
punctilious observance of one pleasant
custom. At our departure they always &c
companied us some distance, and frequent
iy for miles. on our way. Then, standing
by the wayside until we were quite out Of
hearing and sight, they sent after us all
manner of friendly benedictiOn inter
spersed with boa wagon, boa viagemp'
(good voyage, good voyageD until they
must have returned 10 monastery, villeg-
giatura or cabin hoarse from their kindly
called farewells.
Dobrado tells me this boundless hospital
ity is a changeless part Of Portuguese re
ligion; that they have as a common saying,
Curses follow i'll welcomed travellers,
and that the belief is general here that good
fortune comes in degree to the bountiful
entertainment of all strangers who may
chance among them. | have found the
game custom and belief prevailing IN only
one other place in Europe Is In the
west Of Ireland among the poor but great
hearted folk of lone and rugged Come
mara.
But, of deeper interest than all else are
the lowly folk of this fair land. lhaye not
seen in town or city an Instance OF h
we know as want and suffering. The low
10 in Portugal possess nothing, acquire
nothing. nave burning ambitions Tor moth
inc A bit of cornmeal or rye bread
washed down with water Is a repast. Add
n the bread "a bit of fish, a handful OF
olives or a few swallows OF wins and 1t
is "A feast.
The singing scourge of necessity for
rrovidence with which the rigors of win
Ter lash our own poor is incomprehensible
here At their backs are mountains and
valleys green to the sun and sky the whole
wear through. and never falling in their
rich Weld OF fruit and grains. AT theii
feet are broad rivers or the almost encir
cling sea, with luscious food free for the
taking. None ever become rich. None evel
arrive at our own idea Of a modest cOmpe
tency. None scarcely know how TO think
riches can be desirable. The wonder with
them is that any one should worry Oh
strive; that any human being should eyel
he in a hurry. AS with the Cubans II
their languor breeding cline whose
.Mananap' (tomorrowD is the key TO then
torpor and ~vassalage, "PacienciaP OF
'sPatiencel" tells the story here. Some
thing is wrong with that one who vii
hasten, and crime surely turks beneath
l~eanness and vigor.
The mountains and valleys Of Portugal
give home to "A folk possessing all the win
some sunniness of the lowly OF towns with
out a 1.-THE Of their apathy and ~sluggard
ness. You may read all the pastoral poems