The free press., 1892-10-27
FASHION NOTES.

! The Russian blouse clodh - snO"H IL
/ the new fall garments.
Bridal dresses are made this season
with trains three yards in length.
In arranging ribbon belts, remember
that the ends and loops can be tied In
any place save at the back.
White pique dresses have been revived,
and are worn with colored sashes and
full white null chemisettes or plastrons
beneath Figaro jackets, for dinners and
high teas.
Sleeves are worn less high on the
shoulder, but very full to the elbow,
with long, deep, tight-itting cuff, often
in a contrasting material.
Rose pink and mauve, blue and prim-
rose, emerald green and red, black, gold,
or magenta are all considered good com
binations.
There is decided tendency toward
trimming the skirt, Or making it with a
SLIGHT draperv, while the cascade back IS
also used to relieve the severity of
plain skirt
A pretty trimming for wash dresses
consists of three rows of falling loops OF
baby ribbon, each row in different tint
and corresponding with the color OF the
gown.
The French bicycling costume consists
of tunic and knickerbockers, made eX-
actly like those worn by men, except
that the tunic is little longer.
Fancy silks with the surface raised as
if quilted simulate perfectly the quilted
materials used in the time of Queen
Anne, the favorite colors being apple
green, rose-pink, and rather vivid tur-
quois blue.
The cape is giving way to the waist,
and light feather or, better still, lace
boa. is supposed to be all that is necessary
in the way Of outdoor garments for
ordinary wear.
For evening dresses those of chiffon
over slips of inexpensive silk are perhaps
the most fashionable, but there is an in
exhaustible supply of spotted laces, en-
broidered silk mulls, and delicate spider
web organdies.
The Louis Quinze coats and three
quarter length jackets have disappeared,
and polonaises and short Empire bodices
with belts or sashes are to reign.
Perhaps the most striking thing about
the new Paris fashions is their extreme
simplicity; beautiful materials are used,
but the cut is in every case innocent of
any elaborateness, and the only trimming
consists of plain, handsome embroideries
of gold galoons
Shoulder frills of lace which have
decorated every sort of gown, from
zephyr to velvet, are being replaced in
some dresses by chemisettes of exquisite
ly fine India lawn drawn up on baby
ribbon, and in Others by fichus of India
muslin edged with tiny gathered frills,
and worn with their ends tucked into the
belt.
Those who are fortunate enough to
possess them, are converting their old
black lace shawls into elegant wraps.
They look very refined and lady-like,
though they are not worn in the old way,
but are drawn up into a sort of wrap
form and held in place by fancy pins.
Lingerie is passing through the phase
of reaction from the extreme Of elaborate
ness to the extreme of simplicity. The
excessive use of silk and ribbon, which
cannot be laundered, is tabooed on much
Of the high priced underwear.
The old solferinos and magentas,
shades which have not been seen for
many years, are once more to the fore
under the name of "dahla shades" and
promise to be popular during the coming
season,
Collars at the present moment are low
and of the rundown variety. An ar
rangement of lace, chiffon or embroidered
silk muslin, like priests rabot, appears
on many of the handsomest recently i'm
ported gowns.
The tartan plaids which promise to be
so popular during the winter will be
trimmed with narrow bias frills, with
bias ppings, deep reverse hens of the
goods, black velvet ribbon or black
gimp in rows.
The Empire belt or girdle is worn very
extensively with gowns having the Wat
teau back. Often it is a very wide rib
bon, and again it is formed of folds Of
white silk, five in number, that makes it
reach up and give the short wasted
effect that is considered desirable.
Pearls, especially those of odd tints,
are popular this season for engagement
rings, and new style of setting for the
diamond troth ring is somewhat similar
to the broad gold ring worn by men,
but lighter than the mans ring. In
this band are imbeded three diamonds,
the largest in the center
The flower bodice is one of the latest
fads, composed entirely of certain kind
of flower, forget-me- nots, daisies, vio-
lets, pansies, all serving the passing
fancy. The flowers are usually placed
upon foundation harmonizing with the
color of the flower.
An odd freak of the girl of the period
is that Of keeping scrap album of all
her gowns, with the date and occasion
OF their wearing. There will be a pen
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