Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-12-09


dotted lines show how to cut away for low
neck for gimp.
The making of children's garments is
quite different from those of the mothers,
and every dressmaker ought to know how
whether they are ever called upon to prac-
tice or not.
In the first place, simplicity is to be stud
led, and the fact that they have no form"
taken into consideration. When new ma
terial Is used, the dressmaker can cut to suit
herself, but 1t Is best to have the gowns
ETC., designed so AZ to have the different
pieces as large as possible, and have a hem
deep enough to allow for child's rapid
growth.
The present styles have full sleeves, fol
lowing those of their mothers in form, and
the waists are draped in much the same
manner.
To make a dress for a little girl, begin by
drafting the lining, which try on, AZ with
the others, and take the impression with
pins, but loosely; then baste the outside on
following the same general plan rs for the
mothers gowns In the making and finishing
Of the seams. but of course no bones are re-
quired. The waists close in the back, and
the skirt is usually gathered and sewn on
with piping.
The skirts OF children's dresses now are
cut in straight breadths and require very
little trimming, but considerable can be
and is frequently put on the waists.
1t is not considered necessary to finish of
and line child's dress with the same care
employed on fine gowns for grown people.
with the exception of their cloaks, which
require tailor finish.
If jacket IL to have pockets, the best
way for an amateur to do il to take a gentle
mans vest and study the manner in which
they are made and sewn in. Ii she cannot
do this let her cut the slit for the pocket
with the front part half an inch higher
than the back. Cut the lining for the pocket
an inch wider than the slit and cut two
pieces Of the material Of the jacket ~
inches wide and an inch longer than the
slit, the nape running the long way. These
two strips should be basted to the pocket
lining and stitched on tightly. after which
basted to the outside of the jacket in such
manner as to insure their being turned
to bring the pocket inside, leaving these
strips for facings. When the pocket is
sewn in, stay the corners with arrowheads
and stitch the edge Of the lower side The
pocket can then have the sides sewn aud
stoutly overcast.
The difference between jacket and
covert coat is that the jacket is sewn on
the inside. the seams laid apart and pressed.
while the covert coat has the seams Tapped
and double stitched. Only thick. fine
cloth will bear this without fraying. Gov.
ert coats have no front darts. Jackets
may have them or not. Blazers have no
darts and usually are rather shorter in the
back than front, though this season they
are quite long
The collars to covert coats are standing,
and the coat buttons are In double line
down the front Of white bone or pearl.
The collars TO the jackets are according
10 taste. either Medici or Stuart style, or
the plain rolling or the long rolling collar,
which may be lined with fur and which ex-
tends down the front. These collars are
very troublesome. but by getting a special
pattern they can be achieved.
OLIVE HARPER.