St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1892-09-18
a TRIUMPH OF LEATHER,
The History and Mystery of tn
~ Shoe in All Ages.

The History and Mystery OF the
~ Shoe in All Ages.
From the beginning, says the Boston
Journal, the shoe has been something
more than mere article of commerce.
1t has been an index of the taste of the
time. The antiquarian can construct
civilization from given shoe, as Cuvier
built the animal from the bone. The
painter finds delight in the reproduc-
ton of leathery past when cava-
Tiers were booted and Spurred. The
history OF the shoe is maya
zine of singular facts and supersti-
tiOns, a stOrehouse of the caprces of
men and women. As in other articles
of dress. there has been a rotation in
fashion, from the days when Egyptians
wore sandals of leather. palm leaves or
papyrus, to the time when Queen Mary
restricted the width of the toe to six
inches; from the custom of the New
England squaw to wear "shooes of Nose
skinnens, which is the principal
leather used to that purpose" to
the summer habit of white shoes
that accompany a gown and
adorn a piazza. The bare
footed s'littfe man. so lovingly de-
scribed by Whittier, can point to Soc
rates or Cato, in whose footsteps he fol-
lows. The stern SpartanS were partial
to red shoes. The Silken shoes of the
last century were adorned with buckles
and gold and silver stars; and the sabot
of the French peasant, when it is in
tended for house use, is curiouSly orna-
mented. In the olden time, In the days
when AlcibiadeS was the talk of the
AthenanS as he Sauntered in the streets.
shoes were named after him, as now an
actor inspires the fancy in a crayat.
There was once famous swell in En-
gland, long before Beau Brummel, so
long ago that he ate his dinner about 10
O'Clock of the morning, and he gave his
whole mind to the extension of toe
points twisted like rams horn" For
women are not alone in their faStidious-
ness and love of personal display. Even
the magistrates of Rome were particular
in the appearance of their shod feet.
But there are books without number
that deal with this subject in fantaStical
or serious manner. When popes thought
it worth while to thunder against eX-
trayagance In tile device or ornamental
tiOn of shoes, why should not the lovers
OF the curious trace the evolution of the
modern shoe from the thong-tied sandal?
The humblest French woman may have
a simple robe, but she is shod most
carefully. She knows the irresistible
power of this weapon; she shares this
knowledge with her sisters of all lands.
Sucking, in England, has sung the
praises of such feet: Restif de la Bre-
tonne has told in famous words OF the
mighty influence of a well-made little
boot, and is there not a disease, or rath-
er a. mania. for stealing women's shoes
Known to the Germans as" FrauenScli-
Stehlmonomanie"-a formidable nam
thatmagnifieS the guilt of the perform
ance? Or, why should women be com
PEELED to wear shoes, or boots, or slippers
that'war against her taste, sim ply to
crafty the advocate Of health? Would
the feet of antique goddesses, II they
were turned into human flesh, incite tn
poet or haunt the lover? The woman
of today does not envy her sister of
China; she wishes becoming foot
good wife of Simon Eyre, exclaimed,
with just pride: Roger, thou knowst
the size OF my foot; as it is none of the
biggest, so, L thank God. it is hand
some enough; prithee, let me have
pair of shoes made, cork, good Roger,
wooden heel. too.'
Fashions change for men and women.
The terms boot and shoe are used
loosely, although the boot proper goes
above the ankle. Butchers, Yelling
tons, high-loWs are now unknown to us.
But the glory of the American shoe re-
mains, fixed and settled quantity.
Over century ago it was reported in
the London Chronicle that shoes for
women were made at Lynn exceeding
i'll strength and beauty any that were
usually imported from London. 1t is
true that the American shoemaker has
been fortunate i'll his models, but
the feet Of men have been as
tenderly treated. Not without rea-
son does the Boot and Shoe club
of this city hold days OF jollifcation not
without reason does the newspaper of
the craft eXult ina long and illustrated
supplement. The method of manufact-
ure has changed since the days Of hon
est Thomas Decker, and rubbing pin,
stopper, dresser, four sorts of avis, two
balls of wax, pairing knife, hand and
thumb feathers and good st. Hugh's
bones'' may in part have now foreign
sound; but now, as in that ilIustrious
''Shoemaker's Holiday" that pleased
the queens most excellent majesty,
shoemakers are still gentle men of the
gentle craft. true Trojans. Courageous
cOrdwainers; they all kneel to the
shrine of holy St. Hugh.'