Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1892-02-16
HOMENAKERS COLUMN.
O, :: . I; 49, ; !; :; : :: M;
MAKING MUSLIN vNoGRweAR.

4 so2eissi' ASis:s: Saisss MosKsAIEss'
Colrns. Oxferd pssssrss. fsrts. MAIZE
MAKING MUSLIN uNoGRweAR.
One need MOI b invariably prvgress-
I've To appreciate the superiority Of the
present manner Of cutting and making
women's UNDERGRADUATES over that In
vogue even Q decade Of years ago. hut
the advantage Of Substituting colors Tor
white, and other fabrics, even slik lex.
cert for skirts) for muslin, u by no
means - apparent 10 the majority of
women. And for some articles Of chill
dren's wear, such ~ drawers, under-
wAlsts and nlghtgowns, there tertainly
Il no other fabric that combines ~ many
essential qualities ~ good cotton muslin.
90 woven underwear, whether In AL
wool or silk, or In . mixture of WOOL
With cotton or silk, only praise can he
said, and ne the different grsdes are per-
fcctiy adapted 10 all seasons Of the year,
they are CERTAINLY superior to any other
style 90 garment.
TwopIecc garments are preferable to
eombinsiicn opes for children. and Adults
az veil, In my opinion, though, Of
course, that IL . matter Of Individual
preference.
"Iiut," sAys some one, ''granting that
woven Underwear aud muslin garments
are the most economical and satisfac-
tor, mode of drcss, Why do you advise
ne Ia make the latter when they can b.
purchased cheaper than We can possibly
make themr'
Because this has not been my expert.
ence or that of those whose opinion
value. Even expensive ones are not
stayed aud strengthened as ho,ne-msdc
ones can easily be, and the medium
grades are almost invaribly too elabor-
ately trimmed for either beauty OF utii-
ty. The manufacturer Who viii put the
cost Of cheap Hamburg embroiderics
aud i,ces Into the muslin and labor OF
making plain garments, well strengthen
81 With gorrs and fscings, ~iiI--~eil, he
will dsd few appreclstiye customers,
and BE- oatsold by those Who hide cheap
muslin under starch and profision OF
trimming.
select q good quality Of muslln. aud
that With little or M dressing. lie care
fal In stitching not To use too large .
needle or make too short = stitch, a.
either viii cut the cloth. II You are Ia
make q large number of garments OF
dlnercnt sifes, have . plain llst of hoe
many, what siyIe and how to he trim-
med, and instead Of cutting them out
one or two at time, devote . day az
tao Tn the task aud cut the entire mum
Der, folding each garment separately
aud placing them In . large basket. In
this Nay YOU will not only awe much
time aud annoy spce, bat cut the material
To better advantage.
The low-necke,i, short-slce,ed Cbemlse,
once so universally worn, aud that al.
ford. NO protection where u IL most
needed, aud q saperfiuous amount az
fulIne.. wherv u 4. detrimental tn looks.
l comfort and health, IL being sapercrded
BY coordination garment consls,inx OF
cor.st-,o,er and underskirt, or corset
cover aud drawers. The former ] con.
.bier N. most ccmfortshl. aud s~ry'ce-
able garment; indeed, I cannot sce how
one could be morr so. They can he made
high or los neckoi. aud With long or
short sleeves, or none si all, socorilns
o. ~. syle 10 garment worn under
meath thsm. IA wear IN. latter high
n~clr,i aud long .leev.d the entire year,
have IN. former without sleeve. and
medium height In the neck.
The front. which opens a. basque
depth Il the c,ntrr. " cut ON leugth-
~I.e folI % the goods. and. u yard
aide, = pIec. I've Inches vide viii need
a. ~ o,sr-hsudci To zach sIie and 1or-
.,l nearly 60 the waist llne. from the
l-o,tom II IL lifted by dart aud under
arm gore st zach side, both extending .
ic~ lnchc. bslow the ~ai., line. tue
.lde !. faced for huttonholes. aud Oh"
other has . dap attached Tor buttons.
Tie hack, which extends thre inche.
,clow the waist line, IL ~hai !. known
a. he French back" which consists of
two parts. with cur,lng c~ntrc seim,
aud d.Cidci curves nj the-under-arin
SEAMS. 4 skirt, consisting 81 one
hr,al,h % muslin, .hlrroi nj the top, IL
attached To the loser ~i;r, aud the Join-
Ing I. covered withA narrow bias pl~cc
sltrhci down at each cige.
The unjsr-srm gore shouid b. lined Ia
a short distance below the valet lip", or
latNo.lnch bias piece should h. iurncd In
dc,ply 81 each edge over ,b. unief-arm
gore anil under-sfm seam, on which but
ton. can b. PLACED for attaching skirt.
4 woke facing. pointed AZ the cenicr OF
both back and front, should b. adde,i 10
the uptsr part on the right side. TIL.
NAV t. simply trimmed acro.. the bot
tom an I around the neck, or Oh. entire
| woke ms, L. sIl-o,er embroidery, in.cr-
I ton. tucA., ot thu like. The afm.hols
I should q. faced snd trimmed Ia corfc.-
pond With the r-.,, and IN. bottom as
we'll.
III. upper part % the combination
/ q ,rmsut II cor.rt-co,er and drawers.
called ",hsmllon," is cut 'om thing
.fier the same style, but pattern
had l.r.t be obtained nc q paii'ru asen'
cy, for. unlcss PROPERLY fitted, they are
very uncomfortable garment. The
wa,.t potion should b. faced and trim
mel a. above. "a the drawer. part u
recommended for separate garment.
below.
For those Who have large hlp., there
4. a ,irrulsr yoke, which can lie sidcti
10 IN. top % drawers bodies, and viii
ef,StuaIiy do away with all fullness st
tie waist line. when drawers open al
the right side. they should be faced on
the from, and have an under-lsp attach--i
the button or back siic.
/ The ,-,iy portion should BE- fsc~i for
a width "a four inches each .id' of the
point Where the two s"c,lons Join; ani
ia. bs.t Nay To do this is Ia cut = facing
corresponding la shape ~ith the outer
p.rt IL 10. two seam sides, aud straight
II ti.e other. -Four % tbes. .eStlons are
to H. Ioin-d In seams Ike the body OF
tie gsrmrnt. and after the correspond
Y Ing seams ~ the latter are J"in''i. ba.te
IA. fading 20 position, turn under the
outer edge. and stitch them down.
l TIE wai.tband, which should Away.
IT, made lengihwise of the goods, should
have an inisrlining for = distance al
ihrr- inche. from zach end. Ia strength
IN the batton aud button-hole.
Nlghi-gowb., whether cut In Mother
Hubbard or sacque shspe, should tc
faced Ia yok. depth at both front aud
4 back, a. we'll ne AROUND the remainder ut
u the srm-hole. There should al.o lie an
In,srlinlny In both the buti"n and but
touhol- l,e,n, especially u the garment
,lo.e. it, entire length la this way. n
.acquc-.h,I,ed gown should have an un-
deT-ifm gore taken out to basque depth,
10 remove the fullness at the waist.
The mn.iln known as "hslf bleacbed'
l. very s,r,icrsble for underwni'ts and
aud drawers for children. Tbs former
.hoild button at the center Of the hack.
and be filed BY shoulder and unier-arm
seams. AMI an under-arm gore and Elm
| gle bust dart, according to thr age 81
/ a.. ..t,itl I1,.x may ~. Inv ar high st