The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-11
ABOUT AMERICAN GIRLS.

keepers VIII Fit Ladies' to Gowns. Shoes,
Corsets. md Gloves-Cnuses Or Inprove-
ment-Chanres In Notions of ProPriety.
Prince Poniatowski remarked the other day
IN conversation that American girls seemed
to him very artifioial-that they were always
posing. Now. this opinion must be regarded
not lightly. inasmuch as the author of 1t has
been Nowports most conspicuous beau this
season. Tor whom all the unmarried young
women OF the smart cotcrie have set their
caps. Certainly it is surprising to note such u
view OF Yankee maidens, who have hitherto
maintained so marked a reputation for nat
uralness OF demeanor. Indeed. this attribute
was judged to be their primo and distinctive
charm.
The American girl OF q generation ago rep
resented q delicate type physically. But her
delicacy OF physique appears to have been
lost. partly through tho adoption OF athletic
habits In imitation OF the English. The most
famous ladies' tailor in this country said to
tho reporter that within ten years the aver
age native-born young woman OF twenty has
become ono inch larger in bust measure and
moro than an inch bigger around the hips. as
shown by his measurements.
Their figures are better developed alto
Cether." ho said. and they do not need or use
80 much padding as formerly. attribute the
increased measurement about the hips chiefly
to tennis playing. American young ladies
have bigger waists than they used to have. but
that is because it Is no longer good form to
lace much. OF course. tho corset should COM
press the figure somewhat, but in the best So
ciety tight lacinG is ruled against. The prac-
tice must 60. for the reason that 1t has been
relegated to persons Of inferior station.
What do ] think Of the figures Of American
girls? They arc charming. of course. But l
Will IN frl pklv TINT tIll.n ira M ft,yit in
the world equal to those of the English girls.
They represent the perfection attained through
generations OF healthy living and good exer-
cIse. We employ English girls only In our
showrooms. and thor figures are the admira-
ton OF our customers. French women have
wcll-develoned busts. but their legs are too
thin. Thin legs are considered most correct
in France. A ballet master once told mo that
American girls required loss padding for the
stage. as to their lower limbs. than those OF
any other nation"
A Broadway manufacturer OF corsets said:
THE American girl OF to-day has more
arms. neck. and bust than formerly. Twenty
years ago her arms were apt to be- skinny and
the bones in her neck showed. To a certain
extent those things are true now. so that it is
often remarked that English young women
have better nccks and shoulders than those OF
this country. though their faces are not so
pretty. The present style of corsnge makes
tho bust seem high and the waist as long AS
Masking the corset SO as to repress and confine
HON bust and hips. One must commend the
Old fashion recurring that tn" bust should
10 low. A low bust is a mark of an
inferior physical type. as you may Oh
respect it is like an OVERRIDING waist. which
can IAN never properly be- considered beau
in the style. which will demand that the hips
shall appear as high MS possible. so AS to give
s s4.sS;ni .i ,snst h to the legs ,a and d. the Inc mo5t
statues and understand what mean"
A manufacturer of ladies' shoes on Duane
street said that women wear larger sizes than
1T was once the case that u woman would
than a. No. s., he decIa:ed. Dealers We're
obliged to mark IS and IS down to Lower NUM-
Touid f say ' thnt f tReK e not EEL se th smalI Crs si2ns ,s
fit them at other shops and would 50 else
where. Now ladies shoes are sold in sizes IN
them. ! don't think that the female loot has
grown bigger. but that the DEVELOPMENT Of
change. Within the last five Years it has
ceased to be the fashion for little girls to wear
shoes with hi.h heels. Mostof the shoes made
women are adopting the Same fashion. French
heels seem to to rnridly going out.
though it is suid that they enlarge the ankles.
Vanity about the feet seems to have dimin-
llsng9 p ninc ta't ths yHa toes. h Feet IN I'M" sitr n,1Hnie Darts ns
OF 1.-THE country vary SO much in shap" that diff
1erent forms OF lasts hay" to be used in manu-
tions. New England feet are particularly flat.
those Of the women, being Halter than the
FOOT is wide. and thick in ali its parts. from ,he
ankle TO- the toe Joints. In the. southern foot
the Joints arc small, the ankle is delicate. and
but climate that determines these matters. In
kentucky. where the people have tho smallest
mails. even the horses Icing .remMrkable for
the smnlInc.s Of their cStremities."
. AmammiaG'nre ID q gloves on b Haih wa mado
American women wear smaller gloves than
formerly. I'VE hnvc been compelled to notice
the difference within the last Jew years. Ten
years ago wo sold very lew gloves OF sizes 5a
and u. but now Il great part OF our, trade is in
those sizes. The tendency is to. plain gloves.
and tn" fashions chang" very little. whereas
they used to alter constantly. often leaving u
biz stoEk o Of nn- al rsjcj Goo Of c on h"nI' Wa ask.
ed TO account for the physical improvement Of
the Americpn girI, lie aid: ,..
On sunny afternoons. when | go driving in
Central Park. often see as many us seventy
yTH"h ME FIT It is ' a 5aeIiEshtiuTl sn oc 'ate can9s,
these are the mothers Of the coming genera
tion. Women walk nowadays ana indulge in
lon Tor young ladies' to be delicate. and they
do not chew slate Pencils to give trem what
rsting pnllor. tnwiolcsome girls are not in
demand for wives. To u certain extent the
| girls Of to-day sniIcr i'll consequences from
tie tight lHrtns Of which Their s~,anlmolh.rs
the latter lint they had more beautiful
habits. than 'I!olr descendants in ~r"slec, 10
going (" Bed II; prUpcr hours. The chief dan
gor I" he apprehendrd. in my notion. lies in
| The fac; that American. families arc "rnsing 10
produce "tslrins N"wadays parent, who
have ruutrihnted sufficiently to the populi-
ion, There Is everything in breeding look
III tho wr"s'lers "t Japan. They and their
women have belonged to an exclusive caste.
sc,Iuently they tower head aud shoulders
above the ordinary people Of th"ir own race"
Do wOmen lrsss to p.ease the men nr to sat
isfy Tin" criticism OF other women That is
much-disluteu uursti on, and probably il will
never bc decided. Prrsumnb y it i, somewhat
Of hntlI. uciirrhl ~cnnd"mnation hy i;:rL, Will
not XII n fashion. The men all laG.:Eod the
"Gr"ciun ncnd' to, scorn. but Tn, style ran its
course. They made unlimited lun OF the ugly
masses Of Inlu l'air, called "chiGnonS." wl!rh
women fastened On their neads u while ago.
tut they hcldthcir own. hustle" likewise con
tinueitn bc worn. Notwithstanding. the ridi-
rulr If tn" comic papers. and similarly tho
new fgng!rd suspcnders for wVrrcn. But.
tnoG@ll men mny make fun ul womcn's
fashion, in tho abstract, they encourage