davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25
MY LADYS CHRISTMAS GOWN
Is Evolved Through Patient Art
and Genius in Design.
CAPRIC1OUS FASHION
Sacrifices Good Taste Upon the
Altar Of Extravagance.

Elaborate aad Handsome Dress at the T.e-
atres-Opera Given for the Pleasure OF
the Empress.Queen OF Grent Britain and
India-Shouid Early Marriages he Re.
strained by an Appropriate Civil Service
Examination i-lntere sting Information
On this day o! days who can pause to con-
sider wherewithal she shall be clothed. and
yet the study OF tho origin and evolution OF
my ladys Christmas gown IL not without Its
romance. In the brain OF the designer the
germ thought OF gown is duickencd. 1t Is
the offspring Of long and patient research in
lit raries and picture galleries and among an
cient family portraits The designer studies
and rronounces upon now textiles and new
tnting.. which the manufacturers hear upon
him in very embarrassment OF riches.
TN the living model he drapes and redrapes
with patient art his fabrics. ruinEles his colors.
shapes his fancies. ard tho thought OF tho
gown Is born. Less than half score are there
IN that gifted group in Paris which controls
the mode OF the world and inspires the fashion
for every woman gown. from the Empress In
i,er palace to the miliiner's apprentice IN
Division street. There is Worth. the esoterc.
in his gorgeous robe de cinH,Jre with his vel.
vet skull cap wrought With gold He is al
most brutal in his lack OF interest for
auGht but pretty women. snve when the
Creator strives to maze amends for his bad
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25
FASHIONS LATEST ClPRICES.

The Tickle Goddess SACRIFICES q ood Taste
the Altar OF Extravaganza.
Fashion has becn called t!ckl" goddess. hn.
in one thing ia she always to lie dereH,!ed
upon-her extravaganza. j! the statesman
seeks to glorfy his country AMI enrich his
supporters by q certain duty on imported
goods. directly the material becomes costly 1t
is the one and only fabric we are allowed to
wear. Not in years has silk been so generally
worn as now that It is expensive: never we-e
velvcts 90 much in favor on even tnu rlaincst
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

lated, Tho will o! the dress god stands. and
NAV. And because this man she has
t-,er seen thought about n. gown with
Htics. snenth wh,ch; the slueIly il,
n-nCs. one woman will, listen TO The
O. istnas chants and carols in, ~ gown "'
iroaA band Of grenn velvet. edged on either
side with Jet and wit seams outlined every.
NherA with ! cord OF sparkling iet. Tho
igh. iittv Jacket is OF the velvet. with ribs
,"a' fulr The figure horizont9lly. Ike \ coy
Teni velvet, too. And many another woman
N Gotham viii eat her rlum ruddin: ira
r,wn cn tins mode straight from nne o. the
iHmoNa!-. which copies well the Jose.
WIT" r!r!-d silk, with sleeves OF violet
Velvet and girdI- ~ amethyst and gold pas
ss'Nenteri" l"r one great and Gnriou. ~.
snh'" tpWar! tn" rational md truly ~ Istic
mliws thAuk the designers ana Nat Is f"r
Innlhg the feminine waist several degrees
n".", 'he nnrElGi hae than il las been IN
r,r,", e. arn 'Yr a..oSii.G beautiful women I"
oir.h ~ 'a's Low rGo't more graceful is IN"
laced DOWN - ABNORMAL sIandsrnesa For
onre' mat which NO ali may rosssss is de.
s H,p, any one can have n short waist.
b.rios,. s TTH,H tr! ~ The woman who nourns
fasting that large waists are in sacnniiv she
tSi,ts that me slender womQn's sIenIerness
nr ,ren nmf r"b h.. v "H' 70 uiress. can no
50. then, creetin. ant grace and Christm
cheer 10 this MADAM" IA NOac 10, y" VT .n
siiniles whlrr and the shuttns Nv Ua",ns ne.
OF TINS arEnSe- san the OCEAN wastes trsattaS
nercc between countries j. established. Ms,
Ness entcririers are founded. cI,lIiyarin,, i.
"H'cNdrd, ai fair women grow tLir"r In .l,
eyes OF true E!ei,who live purely !orthelg sac,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

isree blue stones lilo turquoise set In the rim.
one in the back. and three or four on ether
side the front small Aigrette OF epoI.SSnn nt
bird Of PARADISE plunss ssar'sa w sms'"' v"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

this season. The rich and glossy scnl o. com
mcrce is just now til" material in
which her rlctous farcv INDUCES widest
extravaSauccs. She liaits it and fr;lis
Il. puck crs and ruf's il. as ii It We're bargain
counter chal!ie. She has Il gathered into
circles that fall in loautfU glossy flutes upon
n slender wo.nau'a slou!t,r-a. and one which.
srvea,i out. almost r1vcrs Il city lot. There
was time when seal WAS cheaper that We
wcro III ost Erntccly dressed in snu: little
coat With modest Collar and close sleeves
But now he collar n is an l.n:iish Euinea'S
cost to thu garment. SO i.attu'l: and wondrr-
fully is il con.tru"tc cd. so much nt the price
i,.ss fur does ii con suiir. And the coats must
he gathered 70 - yoke lik" gowns "' IN"
cambria. They must have Two ara three fiiliS
Of .ur punched NJ round the sAuu.,!ors. The
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

once regal ermine a. 4 iash!onaIls s fur ro for
i,ir In iIInS over a deeper cape OF black velvet.
or borisreI with dark fur. Is seen the delicate
pa!or OF the erTine heightened Gy contrast
Ivenine nonnets are o tiny. SO irs!l and airy.
fiat t not for their swse 10 ths
sv. No iiminution in price has been noticed
since ihe tiny heaIiresses, came in. AMI one
can srcrh forty or iifty dollars AZ ins, ,in,
ahlo millntr's on tn" iearcS', 10 hnIhIh-
tied down with strings that can W
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

embroidery and edged with little silver, balls.
Eminence purplr. and rightly named - tE rs
royal color as il was worn only by pre!a'es
un,il Fashion. seek! ing FOR novelty. entered ~"
sanctuary and robuch the priest "f his mnntl"
for the a,!orning Of her followers. form ~"
richest medium for the expression nf "a, IDEA;
With silver ..itchnG- nnd ,rncarics o: the ,li
lotus ua,tern in -pnrklin threads the jan,sn,t
T. quite covered. and when Worn bv u dark
woman over a ralc :ray or ,!ult green gown
two method in tive Madness which rromuten
the Gress mncnntes % seize uron this
sacred color is decidedly arrarent; ""
hahit coat OF Charles the Ninth :
,lm". slightly modified. makes - most
pic uresrUe and stckin. theatre waist when
worn. ny the right woman. tn" Jacket Is a
hntt!emcnt"i ba-In" "t hunters green Trlvns
bor,lerc.: with gold braid ami beads and worn
over a, hisi, pointed bodice Of dull blue silk
striped and rp"d with gnlG. and h"t.! With
crd,e Q: gold nii.res closed With = r!. a, %, o,
i '.r bin. rhfron is friiel anil fulicd with
many puiiin.s around the neck. Hugo siashsi
slashcs which are el=sd Win gold Even n.
;hr thoatr,. ard. though Of great VARIETY in
stre. are alike in one particular width
Of shoulder to admit the huge sleeves
beneath. Some Of these cares are enormously
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

II ensured ~ ;lie finite
mind. n'e'lllirS IlHo
o. SIX Irwrii"d rlns
ihsien the dainty con.
struction TO the .lGihly
waved coiIluro beneath.
One very original hon,
net. worn by II beautiful
Spanish lady. with the
diissyhair and brilliant
dark eyes for which her
countryw WON q II are
noted. was strung all OF
pearls. chains. and
eli ains wound round
into q little pointed
shape, quite unlike on
shafuo sides- and with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

wide even tho tire,-ruar'-rs length meas
lir:nw quite fix. Yards around the edge. nearly
double III" width Of dress ekirts worn three
rcc;ly from tho high collar with M seam on
The shoulder. and measures four yards round
the lower edge. beautiful hro"Ndes. velrets.
nd heavy silks are tn. materials most in favor
for evening wear. Helorrope. green. deep
!ich erin son. and black. with occasionnlly, y
dull blue. ar. the cn!urS affected. : bright
cars is the fashionable complement OF n dark
gown: black velvet rape falls effect
lively "vnr Hight gown, Their" has
been quite an eNOr: TO brin: in the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

are the limitations. infinitely. moro sensible
than tine originals. but so >ulgarly cheap IN
comparison.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

haudiwork BY moulding the figure OF the
plain. favored damsel in lines OF symmetry
and Grace. In his studio every day the pretty
women congrecate to drink Spanish wines. to
tai; over the fashions. and to consult this
great dress oracle and o'i-inator Then there
is Lafarrarc. in whose somhre apartm ents are
fashioned gorgeous confections for the
crowned heads Of Europe. and Doucet. he OF
tho royalty guarded personality and the in
srrci roesy in dress design. He is COL
!ector OF antiquities when he isn't a mii.iner
TA.re is Felix. the daring contraster OF color:
AMI Nouf and 4 few lesser-i.ht st.:s OF
smaller magnitude in tho galaxy. La
farri'rs conceived the idea % mrire
raTiva,. 4 beautiful actress, allied the
possibilities Of his thought. and 50 for weeks
we have waverch and waited. fon'!Ic.!; and fed
rom the Empire dress. Women with slender
waists and matrons ofamrle proportions have
refused and denied this gown. with NO waist
live, whore waist lines ought (" lao. which
hides graceful ii:nre and amrliheS an ample
one. and yet to q woman they have capitu'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

sSs war ronss own
the hack half way to tho waist line.
covers the shoulders. and then sionrs
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

OF gowns. Not only this. but It is quite imros.
siole to buy the stylish shades in any other
than tho more costly varieties. We sew
pearl buttons even on our sealskin
coats. and well "" may. since from their
cost they might indeed DO classed as orna-
mcnts And not ONLY this. but the more costly
tho material becomes the wider grow the
skirts. the moro 81 the fabric must one pu--
chase: the more elaborate the decoration de-
mandcd by the mole As II rep"ntant over
tho manifestation Of reasonablenesS. the IN
terval OF sanity. which marked last summers
modes as tho most graceful and artistic We
have known for May years, tho mode queen
has launched us into ma!der tolics than ever
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-25

Tho question Eow ngitatinc the Writers
Club is this: What constitutes II writer y
certain lady recently demanded admission o
this club OF literary women on :he strength o.
having sent in various Things IN Em,4.
The venerable l"i,ist had rejected her efforts.
il is said. bu' til. CLUB officers were assured
on tho writer's own authority that her articles
were Infinitely superior TO tao thing, hs did
uriut every week.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
THE NATIONAL TRIBUNE.
WASHINGTON, ID. c., JULY 81, 1892.
FARMERS, ATTENTION T!
4 SPLENDID PAPER VERY CHEAP.
The American Farmer from Now
until End of 1892 for % Cents.

The american Farmer is the oldest agri-
cultural paper in America, having been
published in Baltimore since 1919.
Last Winter il passed into the hands of a
new management, who have greatly enlarged
and improved it Tits now a superb journal
of 81 large pages, with handsome cover,
and finely illustrated. 1t is issued on the
LIST and Is h of each month, aud gives a
larger amount of better reading matter for
the money than any other agricultural paper
in the country. All the leading agricultural
writers contribute to it, and great amounts
of money are constantly being expended to
secure the best available information on all
farming matters.
The American Farmer is thoroughly nom
partisan in politics, bat is strong advocate
Of protection upon every farm product which
comes into injurious competition with those
of foreign countries 1t is particularly
earnest in its support Of the tariff on wool
and the development of the sheep-raising
industry of this country until our own
farmers will supply every pound of wool
and mutton that our people require. 1t
devotes considerable space every issue to
information in regard to sheep-raising and
the discussion of matters of interest to flock
owners. Besides this it has departments
devoted 10 Dairying, Poultry, Bookkeeping,
Horses, Swine. Grain-growing, Stock and all
branches Of farming.
One of IFS peculiarly valuable features is
that it publishes in every issue the latest
issued maps of the Weather Bureau, giving
the temperature and rainfall all over the
country for the previous two weeks. This
information is of the utmost Importance to
every farmer in Judging the probable course
of the market 1t is precisely the informa-
ton that the grain spectators have been
securing at great expense, in order to shape
their operations By means of these maps
the readers of The American Farmer are
given just as reliable information as to the
condition Of the crops everywhere as the
spectators and operators have, and thus
are placed in exactly as good position TO
judge the course of the market
In order 10 give all the farmers of the
country an opportunity to become thor
oughly acquainted with the many merits of
The American Farmer, the management has
decided to make the extraordinary offer to
send the journal for the remainder of 1892
to anyone sending them % cents. This is a
great opportunity TO get vast amount of
unusually good reading matter for an in
significant SUM.
Address ali communications 10
THE AMERICAN FARMER,
1923 NEW YORK AVENUE,
Washington, ID. c.
Sample copies free. Send for one.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
Talk about rich combines in thi. CON,

TALK about rich combines in this coun-
try! All told, there are but 81 manufac-
turers of tinplate in the whole of England,
yet these men have drawn from this coun-
try over S3OO,0e0,000 in the last q years.
They have had all the canneries, all the
builders, all the workingmen aud women
Of this country directly under their thumbs,
and charged exactly what they wished for
the material for cans. roofs, and household
tinware. 1t has been one Of the biggest
and most exacting monopolies that our peo-
pie have suffered from. The only relief is
70 make our own tinplate, which, thanks
to the Mckinley Bill, we are doing.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
epFc1AI ANNOUNCEMENT.

MONEY sent US, otherwise than by regis
tered letter. rostal money order, or draft on
New York, VIII be at the risk OF the sender
AGENTS.-We employ no agents. THE
NATIONAL TRIBUNE has many volunteer can.
vassers, and they are generally, honest and
faithful: but persons who contide their sub
Ecriptions 10 them must be their own judges
OF their responsibility. The paper will be sent
only on receipt of the subscription price
ADDRESSES, RENEWALS, ETC.-Ad-
dresses will be changed as often as desired,
hut each subscriber should in every case give
the old as well as new address. In renewing
subscribers should be careful to send us tho
label on the last paper received. ana specify
any corrections or changes they desire made in
name or address
CORRESPONDENTS. = Correspondence is
solicited from every section in regard to Grand
Army, Sons of Veterans, Pension. Military Ag-
ricultural. industrial and Household matters,
and letters to the Editor will always receive
prompt attention. Write on ONE SIDE OF the
paper only. We do not return communications
or manuscripts unless they are accompanied
by a request 10 that effect and the necessary
postage, and under no circumstances guarantee
their publication at any special date.
Address all communications to
THE NATIONAL TRIBUNE,
Washington, ID. G.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

Old ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS! hat been robbed.
Somebody has showed hellef dollar NIT q hole
In it onto me.
key CHS son)-Gif it to me. Fadder.
Old Ikensteiu-I Won't do it, key. You're
always beggin' vor monish. pll gif you der
hole und holdings more. Und be careful how
you spend it voolisbly.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
If you come to the Eueampmeat wifbout

If you come to the Encampmeat Uittout a
supply Of THE NATIONAL TRIBUNE
Portrait Cards it miH be a great disappoint-
nent to your comrades They all arant your
picture TO take home Nth them to look at in
after gears ,ehen they are thinking and talking
about VoH
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

WHAT an amount of nonsense Congress-
men can talk on very slight provocation
Last week there came up before the House
the joint resolution proposing an amend
ment to the Constitution providing for the
election of Senators by the direct vote Of
the people. This was very simple, straight
forward matter that should have been
settled with comparatively few words. The
arguments in favor of the proposition are
strong, and can he succinctly stated by any
man Of ordinary ability in few minutes
When they are SO stated there is nothing
more TO be said. But some score Of gentle
men were anxious to show off their ora
torical powers, and get rid of lot of
wordy stuff which had been secreting in
their systems ever since they took their
seats. The result was hours of the most
tiresome drivel, in which the old Romans
were dragged from their graves and made to
prance before the House, scraps of poetry
were recited, and fragments of stump
speeches We're brought out and aired. The
result was that the House was not allowed
to reach action on the resolution, though
Representative Chapman vainly struggled te
have the previous question ordered and STOP
the flow of irrelevant talk. Many of ths
II Al u.
tunity to say something before returning K
the bosom of their constituents and appeal
ing for the votes Of the great American free
| men, and they were going to speak or die.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

a MAJORITY of the Senators are in favor
of the bill TO transfer the Revenue Marine to
the Navy Department, but it is doubtful if
it viii be allowed TO pass in the face of the
strong opposition which Senators Sherman,
Cockerell, and others viii make TO it.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
woRKINGMEN IN THE NATIONAL
GUARD.

Since the ordering of the Pennsylvania
National Guard to Homestead there has
been much foolish, demagogic talk about
the wrongfulness Of workingmen enlisting
in the National Guard, where they become
liable to be used against their fellowwork
ingmen. This is mischievous nonsense
The National Guard cannot become the OPP
pressor of any class Of our people. 1t is the
agent of the whole people, organized to
carry out the will of the people by insuring
obedience to the law. We must have
obedience to the law under all circumstances.
If the laws are not obeyed and respected
there is no protection for anybody. The
National Guards are used strictly in accord
ance with the provisions of the law, for
purposes that The laws have in view. If
the laws are defective in any respect they
should be amended, and this amendment is
in the hands of the people themselves. For
example, the workingmen Of Homestead
have precisely as much to say about the
making of the laws of Pennsylvania as any
other class of the citizens Of that State. The
code under which the State is governed is
just as much their work as that Of any other
body Of citizens, for they have been con-
stantiy powerful political factor, and no
wish of theirs would have been disregarded
by the political parties which have eagerly
sought their votes. They have always been
represented by their own men in the Legisla-
ture of Pennsylvan and it is incredible that
any oppressive feature of the laws shall have
escaped their attention. If it has, the only
way to do is to submit to it until the next
meeting of the Legislature, and then have it
amended.
The remedy is so simple and easy, and so
completely in the reach of every citizen. and
mass of voters as the Amalgamated Work
ingmen, that it is criminal to talk of violent
resistance to the operations of law.
The w0rkingman who enlists in the Ma
tional Guard can be no more of an oppressor
of labor than the one who gets an appoint
ment on the police force. Both take upon
themselves the duty Of enforcing obedience
to the law, and Of protecting all citizens in
the enjoyment of their legal rights. 1t is
an honorable, praiseworthy duty, which any
man should be proud to perform.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

Don't pat Of gow orders for THE M
TTONAL TRIBUNE Portrait Cards single
day. IL as only fcw sceeks nor until the En-
camDment, and there uiu be great rash for
tAesa as The fsnae nears. First come, first scrred
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
TALKING POLITE BosroNEsE.

Farmer Wayback Ito hired man)-So you
are from Boston, hey2 Wal, the first thing
for you to do will be to go out an chiropody
for an hour or two.
Hired Man just engaged - Chiropody 2
What do you mean?
Farmer Wayback-Why, go an cut the corn
from the foot of the hill, Of course.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

Don't put of your orders for THE Ma
770EAL TRIBUNE Portrait Cards single
day. Il is only a fer ueeEs noW until the En-
cGmpmeHt, and there ,oiU be a great rusA for
them as The time rears. First come, first serred
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

If yoa come TO the Encampment acithout
supply Of THE NATIONAL TRIBUNE
Portrait Cards ii will be great disappoiat
ment to your comrades They all rant your
picture to take home with them to look at in
after years suAea they are thinking and talking
about yea.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
IKE's INSULT.

Alkali Ike-Heered you was an English
| dock?
Tourist-Ysas me deah fellah, Hi ham.
Alkali Ike-Can't you do nuthin' for iti
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
IF YOU ARE COMING.

IL you think Of coming to the National
Encampment, send THE NATIONAL TRIB-
UEE postal card, with your name address,
regiment, brigade, and corps
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21

CONGRESS will probably adjourn the last
of this week. The best that can be said of
il is that it has done much less harm than
was expected.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
TANNED LAME.

Tourist Tin Oklahoma hotel)-Where is that
lamb ordered half an hour ago?
Waiter las terrific humping is heard an
the kitchen)-It will be ready right away, sir.
The cook is lamming it now.
The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1892-07-21
FROM THE HAwvrLLE CLARION.

The editor of our esteemed contemporary, the
Dinkeyville War Cry. was joined in the holy
bonds of wedloek to Miss Lille Clipper, of that
town, last Tuesday afternoon, and thereby q
pretty little romance was consummsted. Upon
each successive Friday morning for some six or
eight weeks past. the wielder of the shears and
Faber had found succulent catfish reposing,
all nicely cleaned, on bed of cool cress in a
little Indian basket, on his doorstep. There
was no clew to the identity Of the donor till
last Friday morning, when the editor arose in
the gray that heralded afar the coming Of the
golden chariot of the sun, and caught Miss
Lille in the act of placing the toothsome
Wand, as aforesaid. The result was the solemn
ceremony of the following Tuesday.
It was night.
Three desperate msn--the first wearing q
frown of the same material and q revolver, and
the third dressed In clenched teeth and bear
ing a squirming sack in his right hsud-orept
around behind the barn.
Tho first held the lantern on high. The
third opened the mouth Of the sack sufficiently
to allow the cat therein to slip her head out.
Tue other thrust the muzzfe of his weapon
into the feline's ear.
He fred.
The result was as follows, after the cat, dis
gusted, had rushed into hole under the hsy-
stack:
One man shot through the arm.
One man shot through the lantern.
One man with three fingers blown off,
One cat badly singed, but otherwise unin-
jured.
One haystack burned to the ground.
One barn burned to the ground.
One wagon-shed burned to the ground.
We regret to add that one Of those men was
ourselG