The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-01-02

anu WHlCtsIuC lOlh, Wllu HGTc ~ IOCllkCu
the GAGS do Sodrc where strangers ire
usually landed. At all hours OF day and
night II is an interesting locality The
Lisbon boatmen have no other homes
but their boats. In them they cook
their meals aud sleep. Until long after
midnight you can come upon little fleets
| OF from dozen 10 Il score OF these,
grouped ncighborly together, their
swarthy. owners eating, drinking and
| singing in an utter abandon OF content
mcnt and good nature. They are wild
and hairy lot, but the Lisbon police tell
me they arc wholly peaceablC, and arc
governed in all their dealings and rela.
tions among themselves b. ancient aud
unbrokcn customs and laws. In this
respect thoy arc most Rtrikingly liket tho
fishermen OF CladdGgh, ut Galway, Ire.
land. They also bear strong physical
and facial resemblance to the latter,
which Is not TO be wondered ut, since
the latter, as well us many OF tho other
Galway Irish folk OF the present day,
arc descended from Spanish and portu.
gueso parent stock.
Three fine, wide streets extend north
from Praca do Commerce., or CONNER.
cial Squire. Their names correspond
in English to Gold, Silver and Cloth
streets, from concentration OF traders
and trading in manufactured articles
from these commodities. This section
OF the city was entirely rebuilt since the
great earthquake OF l175, and forms,
with the great editices about CONNER
cial Square, what may be properly
termed the business district OF Lisbon
Tho northern end Of these business
streets terminates in another praca, or
park or square, the PraCa do Rocio. In
common parlance it is known as Dom
Pedro Square. II is Il splendid quad
rangle curiously paved with many col
orcd stones. The Theatre dc Donna
Maria, on tho site Of tho Inquisition,
forms its northern facade. The trc-
ncndous pedestal and plinth OF an I'M
finished monument to Dom Pedro |
stand in the center. This square is the
fayOrtc evening resort OF Lisbon people.
II is dominated on the one hand by the
grand ruins OF the Carmo, the monastery
OF the Carmolite monks, built in the
18th century, and on. the other by the
CASTILLO or vast castle oil st. George
from whose mighty walls the most
glorious view OF the city and cnvirons
can be enjoyed.
Farther towards the mountain
heights is tho lovely Passeio pubico.
This is the great resort OF the better
classes OF the city, summer and winter.
1t is not large, but it is,,enclosed and OK
quisitely laid out in serpcntine walks,
shaded with numberlcss trees, and pos
scsses 4 wealth OF statues, fountains,
flowers and birds. 1t is 4 sweet and
sonGful place the year through. Tho
birda never leave it. At no hour OF
night or day is it deserted by gay prom
cnadCrs. And it is here OF all places in
Portugal, that her beautiful women can
bcsecn ut their best. Their faces are
less lauguorous and sensual than those
Of Spain. They may not have the sauci-
ness and flash OF the French. The mel
ancholy oil the Italian women is lack.
ing. But.they are still beautiful and
wholesome women, with sweetness OF
mouth, liquidity OF eyes, and 4 kindly
and honest light in the whole face, that
compensate in genuine admiration and
sentimental interest.
THE ARCHITECTURE.
Besides these, there is the interesting
Praca ia Figueira, or Flower Market,
one OF the most attractive places in Lis
bon; the Campo Grandc, over 4 mile in
length, just at the edge OF the city,
where the riding and driving OF the ar
istocracy may be seen: the Campo de
Santa Anna, where the noted Lisbon
Rag Fair is held weekly; the Praca do
Sac Pedro PAlcantara, magniiicently
shaded promenade, with shell grotto
and fountains, overlooking the city and
harbor; and score OF lesser pracas,
squares, gardens and parks, where the
wayfarer may tarry, rest and enjoy.
Lisbon is peopled by perhaps 100000
souls. None OF its parks can compare
with Central park, New York, or Lin
coin and jackson parks, Chicago. But
l have never visited any city in Europe
in which l have found so great num-
Der OF tiny.resort places, each different
from any other, and every one so inter.
! esting in its separate individuality,
| beauty ana charm.
Alphabetically Lisbon in detail is
vastly more interesting than beautiful.
Asyou approach it from the sea, with
its domcs and towers. all ilanked by
castellatcd heights and purple noun
tains behind, it is imposing and grand.
When you come 10 wander within it,
you are never astonishcd or even great
ly impressed byits cditices. Its churches
are less interesting than those OF any
other city OF equal size in Europe. The
Church OF the Heart OF Jesus, on the
summit OF Estrelln Hill, in imitation OF
st. Peters ut Rome, without the colon
made, is the tpretentiouy in Lisbon.
The church OF Sac Domingo, the see OF
the Cardinal Patriarch, near the Rocio,
is vast in proportions. The nortuary
church OF Sac Vicente is interesting
chiefly from its containing, in
curious gill; boxes, the remains
OF the illustrious dead OF the royal
house OF Braganca. The tiny church OF
San Rogue, with its famous chapel OF
st. John, attracts all visitors on account
Of its marvellous mosaics. These, FORM
ing the back and sides OF the structure,
are copies in veritable size OF Raphael
Urbino's Descent OF the Holy Ghost,
Guilo's Annunciation and Michael An
gelo's Baptism OF Christ. The7wonder-
ful perfection OF this work is shown in
tho fact that from any ordinary point
OF observation, no difference between
them and the originals can be detected.
More curious still the entire chapel
and its interior decorations were first
set up in Rome, blessed by Pope Bene-
dict NV, taken down and transferred
to its present site. Its cost has been
millions. and there is probably not in