Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1892-09-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
FALL AND WINTER MATERIALS
STYLES IN MAKING-NEw
MILLINERY.

by our New York Female Fashion reporter
Among the most striking goods, are
woods wrought upon by velvety cords
that frequently in contrasting colors,
cross the breadths at intervals of an
eighth of an inch. An example in dark
brown, shows pale gray cords which,
diversified at intervals by various
bright colors, produce an illusion of
shaded stripes. Other rich materials
are called either corduroys or velvete-
ems and display a succession of closely
placed cords, which however lie loose
" and here the intermixtures of color
are often very gay with perhaps an
addition of changeable effects. Rich
woods show narrow, half-inch-long bits
of plush placed an inch apart and these
are held in position by silken cross
stitchings in contrasting color, while
single threads to match, run up and
down the breadth. The darning stitch
materials which were brought out dur
ing Summer, are also reproduced now
in heavier weight fabrics and will con-
tribute share in general enliven-
ment. They display on dark ground
works, single or double threads of pale
or bright silk run in darning stitch
and when set near together in greater
or less number, form unique stripes.
STRIPES
are indeed a leading feature and
though very stylish plaids appear,
they are not SO numerous. Some new
plaids are enormous in dimension, but
here the colors are usually rather sub
dued or in some cases yelled by thick
ly-set dottings in black. The most
striking plaids have silken bars set on
surfaces woven in very thick cords and
this gives a key note to the re-employ-
ment of corded surfaces in general.
Plaided yelvets are a genuine surprise,
by reason of brilliant colorings and
bold patterns, some attaining size of
six inches and composed of half-inch-
wide silken bars that in bright yellow,
red or green, traverse dark ground
works. Usually there is one strongly
defined boundary, but minority dis
play narrower silken lines in varied
hues, set close together and forming
squares that intersect and size of pat
tern exceeds the limitations first given.
Rich velvets of more modest appear
ance are striped by single threads of
pale or bright silk, which embedded in
soft surroundings, glow beautifully
and occasionally bourette knottings in
the silken threads, give inch eased light.
BOURETTE
weavings in woods for general wear, are
q marked feature and the carelessly
placed knots that show up hither and
thither, have all their former prestige.
Arranged in rows however, they con-
stitute stylish and effective stripes OF
plaids. Dress goods of one color and
fine weave, will nevertheless be in much
demand and in many cases form the
dress, while the rich goods first men
1lo do TO 81
corseletS, cuffs, bands around skirts
etc, since there will be a continuation
OF those features in gowns that have
caused such remarkable beauty in sum
mer outfits. Authorities assert posi-
lively that the coming skirt for street
wear, will clear the ground, although
drapery will remain close on the hips,
with fullnesS arranged at the back. In
NEW MILLINERY
seen at Lord and Taylor's, there is a
noticeable reproduction of upright
garnitures- shapes are equally or per-
haps more fanciful than hitherto and
there will be equal difficulty in obtain
ing bonnet proper, unless one be con-
tent with shape having a crown about
three inches across and two in height,
which rises abruptly. Many elderly
ladies will again be forced to transform
yOuUulul llduS IIluO DOuI1eUS, Dy an auO1-
tion of strings. Much style attaches to
group of stems from which the feath-
ers have been stripped except at the
ends or the feathers may be entirely
stripped, with artificial ones parted at
the extremities. Colors in millinery
are often bright; leading tones being
yellow, green or red and not unfre-
quently the three are combined, with
parrot-like result. Other bizarre mix
lures are ecru, heliotrope and green;
tan, heliotrope and yellow; double fac
ed satin ribbons in strong contrasts are
much used and likewise velvet lined
with satin in marked opposition as to
hue. Dark and
PALE SHADES
of the same color, are also noticeable
and black appears constantly, since
nothing brings out color so effective
ly. An example in bright yellow vel
vet is trimmed wholly with black For
much Importance can hardly be given
to green, which is in many shades, of
which some are quite bright and hell
otrope is also in considerable demand
Extremely large ribbon bows are a |
feature on hats and wings are some
times spread out, SO that each feather
is almost separate. Four of these prod |
uce much breadth, with loops or an
aigrette IN the centre.
R0sALIND MAY.