St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1892-11-28

hood. notwithstanding the fact that he
mas some twenty odd wives, each and
every one of them with as much curl
osity as any American woman that ever
lived.
Il mentioned they had but one rail-
road in all China. and that, too. but
twelve miles in length. There is moth
ing, therefore, in the way of rapid
transit there. You have either to go by
boat or ride in wagon train. Both are
extremely slow, ana an ordinary jour-
ney occupies two or three days. The
aristOcracy of China and all visitors VINO
come with proper credentials are carried
about the streets IN filters. When 1
reached Picking they took me to hotel
and gave me Sumptuous apartment, in
which the predominating colOrs were
red and yellow The house was built
or bamboo. the ceilings were low, but
i must confess that everything about it
was we'll built, and the effect OIL the
whole could not help but be pleasing.
l have heard it said that Cinnamon
know nothing of the harmony of color.
but my experience is that they usually
get an effect which is pleasing even to
the artistic eye.
Il shall never forget my first supper
chopstickS, and | do not doubt that my
efforts to impress the attendants who
were constantly about with me an idea
that L was thoroughly accustomed to
everything Chinese accounted largely
for the many Subdued smiles L noted on
the StOlid cOuntenanceS of those who
served me. cannot say that this sup
per. or in fact any other meal of which
| part6ok while in China, had that self
satisfying result that good Old-faShioned
beefSfeake aud potatoes have for me in
America. To be perfectly frank, went
hungry most of the time, and that was
my condition on tho night / was pre-
sented TO Lii Hung Chang. the prime
minister of China.
Shortly after dark high official of
the government called upon me, and
through my interpreter informed me
that my presence was demanded at the
imperial mansion. l had on my dress
coat, which made me all the more out
of keeping with the elaborate costumes
of the richly clad Cinnamon about me.
Thanked on either side by one of these
gayly dressed Cinnamon, marched out
and found glitter carried by four stur-
dy natives. The litter was covered
with canopy upholstered in the rich
est of Chinese silk. On either side stood
hand. As | approached the men bear
ing the litter sank to their knees. so that
l might step aboard. When | was COM
fOrtably seated the curtains were
drawn. the men rose. and the procession
wended its way slowly to the house OF
Lii Hung Chang. There was no crowd
ing about by the common people, as
there is i'll America, for the common
people of China are subdued and disci-
piined like an army OF soldiers. There
Is no gaping mob there.
Il had heard that the palace was
very beautiful building, but | was not
prepared for the sight that met my gaze.
1t was ablaZe with light. and there GER
Iainly must have been several thousand
lanterns, for candle-pOwer is the only
light used in China. 1t may seem in
credible that nation of 4O0,000,O00, so
much Older than ours, and with such
vast natural resources, should, in the
nineteenth century, be practically with
out railroads, without telegraph, with
out a telephone, without any postal
service. and without any governmental
mint. But it is still more incredible
that they should be without anything in
the way of light at night other than
candle power. But the effect of this is
certainly as pleasing as anything L have
seen, either in America or in Europe.
The light of every candle shone through
some gaylv colored lantern, and over
the whole scene there was that soft
radiance which neither gas nor electric
ity can produce.
"However we Of America may at
tempt to belittle the Chlnaman, there
is little justification for it. True it is,
he is far behind us in many ways; but
he has abilities peculiarly his own, and
whatever he does attempt he succeeds
in. There is great deal of what we
call red tape in this country in every
thing official in China. You can get
some idea of the formality of things
when L tell you that before [ reached
the august presence of Lii Hung Chang
| was presented i'll turn TO seven differ
ent officials, each higher than the one
who presented me. Finally L reached
the prime minister. By that time | was
very much worked no and scarcely able
to make 4 good presentation of my case
through the Interpreter. But any nerv-
BUSINESS that | may have felt was doubt
less overcome by the rich presents l
brought, and which were placed at LII
Hung Changes feet with great cere-
mOny.
My instructions had been to walk up
to the foot of the throne, bend my knee
and bow low. | did this, and remained
there until commanded to rise. Stand
ing before the prime minister. | stated
my case with all the eioquence of which
| was capable, and the fact that | was
finally successful justifies me IN part in
saying that eloquence won the day. Be-
fore left Lii Hung Chang had promised
me all | asked for and more. Returning
from China, | brought with me official
grants of concessions, more valuable,
perhaps, than any one had ever obtained.
That they are not now being put to
practical use is due only to the fact that
English capital, through its American
agents, has interfered and temporarily
prostraled my plans. In the end, how
ever, | am confident that American
genius and enterprise and capital will
win the day, even against British gold
Il D1.Ifi ..It NJ 1iinIri