Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1892-04-20
WOMAN AND HER DRESS.

WSWS>N HlNO FfEh IflESO
A Terribly Cynical View OF the Fashion
tor the Comlng Spring.
No question hut woman is variable
animal, and how should her patron saint
be other; And whittier. having achieved
a certain measure of elegance, oh,
whittier will she hurry It's? Toward
what slough, what quag Of ugliness viii
1t please her TO turn our all too willing
feety Will she revive the old horrors of
pannier and "draped' skirt and the
hated birdcage: Who can tell? Her
responsibility is devoid of sequence as
Of reason, It's intractable rs mule and
as Tightly ~ Hiss Broughton's heroines
told styleI
At the present moment there is much
TO rejoice in. The long, foundationless
skirts. with their graceful, fanlike folds,
are both attractive and comfortable; and
no petticoats were ever much prettier
this side of Eden Built in many colored
brocades after the same slim fashion as
the skirts above them; frilled with lace
or fiounced with their own silken fabric;
lined. too, sometimes (but imperceptibly)
with the finest OF fine woolens. albeit
most untempestuous, they are worthy OF
immortal verse.
Unhappily, the tartan denominations.
most odious of patternings. are always
well nigh irrepressible especially in
respect Of understands and stockings; for
there Is nothing SO tasteless as woman
save only man-man, whom (she avers)
she lives to please Both petticoat and
stockings should carry out the enhar-
monies of whatever color chord may be
struck in the outer toilet, in vest, garni-
ture or headgear. If the costume be I'M
mitigated black. why, then its brocaded
supplement must shine intrinsically fair
in black and white or black and cream
One snch radiant example parades a
woven design Of conventionalized elder
flowers and berries. and is bordered with
several rows of foamy lace. Again. with
a chestnut brown gown, broidered in
eucalyptus green and faint pink (Which
colors haunt the bonnet. and Herewith
the iapels collar and cuffs OF the Louis
XVI mantle), the petticoat is overclus-
tered with pale pink chestnut blossoms
and leaves upon "A delicate cream with
coffee ground
Here the shoes. sufficiently stout for
outdoor wear, are in dark chestnut brown
leather, with plain gold buckles, while
the silk hose IN II little thicker silk than
common. are bruiiered in dim green and
nj in, frta -
heinmed and violet vested black; your
broad velvet hat shall he parterre of
pale violets. black ostrich and empurpled
bows; your flowing mantle, in black vel
vet shot with dim CLEANS Of violet. shall
be ostrich bordered; the long. straight
falling folds of your skirt, gathered in
your left hand shall give but glimpse
OF your pale lilac petticoat literally
strewn with dark violets and violet buds;
when the browning satisfaction, the mems
conscia recti shall be yours. for you will
know that the completeness of your tot
let is as grundlich as all real works of art
must he and are.
For walking wear o mornings there
are fabrics agreeably rough, touched
with rs II We're. n pleasing affectation of
savagery Soft, fuzzy surfaced cloths,
patterned or plain (plain for choice, yet
not Objectionable though patterned), in
dull browns. fawns, heathers, grays. etc
But here. too. Is the trail OF the tartan;
howbeit you would, alas! it were not so
forever and forever"
VI the unpatterned cloths, gull gray
gown. very plain and trim, with a long
18Th coat worn over frilled China silk
shirt mistily printed with Japanese ane-
MONIES in gray, amber and white-this,
we say, Is charming, as is another, kind
OF dull roam. shirted in likewise with an
ashes Of roses silk, bearing dim device
Of scattered purple violets. Both have
Hat, down pointing girdles clasping in
visibly to left, the first of old Flemish
silver work. the second of hammered cop
per.
For the freaked woolens, arabesques,
neither too large nor too distinct, are the
only possible decoration. Flowers or
leaf shapes are obviously Inappropriate;
stripes are a WEAKNESS, spots an irrita-
zion, while chequers delight not any hu-
man thing. The ideal enlightenment Is
vague in outline. harmonious of tone and
In size avoiding bed curtainless on the
one hand and any impression Of poverty
on the other. National Observer
The Woman's University In Scotland.
Some fifteen years ago few ladies
started "a small scheme for the higher
education Of women and Glasgow uni
versity most generously gave the move
ment its full sympathy. After some vi
cissitudes, helped by the personal kind
ness Of most of the professors, the scheme
grew till. in 1888. the association became
incorporated as college under the name
Of Queen Margaret college, and Mrs.
Elder. in 1884. generously gave it home
by purchasing the house and grounds of