davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

e. and IN. spite Of unsparine abuse, eomis
ministers It still is nconq uered. like the cor.
set, and IN tho very closeness. OF the skirts 81
the day we rcad the sure prophecy that 1t Will
be with us aga n. .,,, a,
cumference saved France when Marguerite de
valois hid Henry Of Navarro beneath her
skirts at the time OF tho 81 Bartholomew mas
sacro. and n famous count was saved from his
enemies by being carried OH In q coach. hid
don beneath the Immense iatthingales OF his
kinswoman. Louise dc Montagnard. The
bnsked corset or basGuine.ysery much stiGepssd ned
parasoi and m I'M arc all dress additions orig
mating in this period. Catherine dc Medicis.
the gloomy and .murderous Princess. intro.
duced runs into. France during the reign Of
Henry H.. and the charming invention met
with immediate favor. Aside from this she
left the articles OF coquetry to- the court Ia
husbands mistress. and the prettiest crea-
lions Of tho age are dark colored. elegantly
severe costumes, harmonies In gray or black
and white. the colors OF tho Goddess Diana.
:. No vital change WAS brought about during
the reign Of Henry III. except that prevailing
modes were emphasized to the extreme OF lux
urious extravaganza. and the King and his
minions wore pearl necklaces, Venetian lace
ruffs. and painted their faces like the court
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

The reign Of tho "sun-King." the sum tuous
Louis XIV. H. the reign OF majestic wigs and
grandeur push he'd to pomlosity. The hair. as
may be seen in the illust -ation was worn In
eaoh side the, face tied with rihbons. Gowns
We're, ,low-necked. literally displaying the
shoulders. the pointed bodice covered with
embroidSry. and the short sleeves ended in
the sides OF a curtain and fastened back with
clasps set with brilliants or knots OF ribbon to
The famous Montespan. who might have
snid with truth. Il am the mode" wore at a
court festival a costume described AS "a gown
Of gold on gold Broiiered in gold. bordered
WITH gold md that goG reze sttGhed
stun that has ever been Imagined Transparent
with lunches Of many-colored flowers painted
on the material. and satin undertakes be;
an outer one or tissue. Lace formed an
essential part Of every element q fem;
floating about everywhere, In 1850 q
effect. One day at q royal hunting party the
hat OF tho Kings favorite was blown off, and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

efs denounced in vain then. even as at the
present day. Upon tho invention OF linen
cloth women wore not satisfied with having
their necks to show tho linen "gorgcts" or
tons Of their chemises but cut long apertures
In the bodice from the shoulder to the hip
laced across and exhibiting the linen UNDER
meath. The sleeves OF the underdress came
down to the wrist with an outward slope
which covered the hand as they do now.
some ofthem. called "a mitons." closed at the
end and entirely covering the hand The
great lady was called chatelaine.' and wore
upon her pearl set golden grde the little aims
haS In feature OF this winters costumel Of rich
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

chiffon. and flmy India GAUGES. The bodices
arc swathed In folded drapery over drapery.
with contour OF feathers around the neck
spray Of white heather. which is Just now con.
sidered the flower OF good fortune. or finish
OF lisse ruching.
One Of the seasons buds led the cotillon tho
other night in a pale blue .mousseline dc sole
trock. with not hint OF trimming except some
OF these bows caught the drapery to the skirt
one tod tho girdle at the waist. and the pretty
bow on each side over the shoulder whore the
pulled elaborate sleeve rose to great height
20 important and stiffiy wired are these. even
scanty skirts. that the girl who wears
them is suggestive Of a sandwich adver-
indulges in a. lower cut bodice than
she allows her daughter to wear. but It is cut
s5omddag or STRAIGHT across IRON h to
inGly low point prevalent in former seasons
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

the insertion Of baby ribbon. In the yoke of q
plain or figured cambria there Is threaded
succeeding rows Of these narrow ribbons. .
pale blue followed by pink. green. rose. violet,
garnet or brown and then the colors are re-
peatsd again until ali the yoke is composed
on the skirt, treated in the same manner.
is about three inches in width. the
Is scarcely more than an inch in width. The
amateur dressmaker 10 sure Of charming re-
suit when she follows this, model. e she Is
careful to buy ribbons of delica ttnts and
does not select too strong a color In the mate
rial. In the figured goods II Is well to match
the oolors In the pattern with the ribbons.
For palmer dresses a bit OF embroidery or
lace may be used for the yoke and belt. and
the skirt may be plain: finished with worry mar
row ruffies or bands OF the embroidery or lace
set In as insertions.
la grippe collarette" has replaced the
Medicis haring collar whose picturesque
curves. rising TO great height in the back and
sloping away to leave the throat exposed In
front have been responsible for more than one
most unfortunate influenza The new depart
ure 10 q developm emit Of the original ruff idea
funnel shaped collar OF velvet. lined with satin.
bordered with feathers or fur. and finished In
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24
NOTHING NEW in DRESS
4 Glance at Ten Centuries Of
Women's Toilets.
UT THE CHANGES ARE INTERESTING


u French Author who has Given the Sub
49, Exhaustive Attention-Tho Hate ana
sAs 0kirts OF Long Years Aeo-what
wsaaA Wears To.day-New stu6s for
aOpsans wsar-Coliars ana Wells.
sThere Is nothing new In the world but that
which 10 old enough" said the dressmaker
who fashioned for tho beautiful but unfortu-
nate Josephine graceful garments after Greek
and Roman models. 2. 1000 years old. In the days
Of tho Consulate. "Where are the modes Of
yesteryear p asks the paradoxical philosopher.
"On tho backs Of the women OF to-day. just as
they will be upon the backs OF the women OF
tomorrow. and Of the day AFTER" writes RobidA
IN his Yesteryear: Ten Centuries OF Toilets"
which MrA Cashel Hoey has translated so
gracefully. and in which has been compiled
most exhaustive history OF woman's dress
from the earliest to the present time.
The first point made BY the author Is that
fashion and architecture are sisters. and the
characteristics Of the one art are reproduced
IN the pecullarities Of the other. The cut-out
snipped-up costumes Of tho middle ages cor
respond with tho Gothic architecture OF that
period: In the days Of the Renaissance novelty
was sought In ancient dress covered with
ornament OF Roman design: the severity Of
the mode at the end Of tho sixteenth century
was In harmony with the edifces OF that
troubled period. and in our own time Of arch
Biological research. period Of imitation rather
than invention. architecture and fashion keep
stop together In ransacking the past for
the oddities Of long. long ago. The first
fashion plates are only some cathedral
door or statue from tomb that has es-
eaped tho ravages OF time and the hammer
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

And We hurry from the Empire cut TO the
vslois idea, and from medieval sleeves TO
sim de siScle" to arise for the adornment
Of the twentieth century bellies to come.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

stud. clasped with gold.
Jewels we're worn In
greatest abundance.
Ths chief feature. how
ever. OF this costume
was the extravagant
hssddress. called tho
"Hennin." tho broad
cylinder OF rich stuff.
ornamented with jew
els terminating In two
horns. from which
0oated o cloud Of fine
muslin that fell about
the figure. Preachers
and mpralists Sttrib-
uted to the cuipable
extrsvagance OF the
heanin all the misfor-
eunes Of the times. and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

tion for lack OF new novelties. trying limitations
81 the novelties Of the past that. as Jossphine's
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24
xHB Fashions ron SPRING


New Dress Fabrics and Desisns-Hisbeas
and Flowers Used FOR Decoration-The
Latest Ball Dress-Evening Waists.
"Now is the winter OF our discomfort made
glorious summer" in the shops by garlands Of
spring blossoms entwining festoons OF dainty
dimity. flower sprayed organdie. batiste. soft
and starchless, stamped with meandering
ribbons twisted into true lovers knots. and
cleaning. changeable. silken tissues with
magical irldescent figures shimmering from
softest blue to faintest crimson. and blushing.
from the palest tint OF the violet hue. to the
pink Of the roses petals. Spring modes are as
yet sealed proposals. and until fashion de-
clares her choice Of favoritos few OF the heavy
fabrics for spring are displayed on the coun-
tiers or purchased by the shopper. Tho China
silks that are being picked up rs soon Us they
appear will not be made at present. but wait In
tho dressmakers' rooms for new developments.
But the simple cotton gowns for morning and
afternoon wear In the country are being pre-
pared In this interval Of the mode when every
woman is congratulating herself that her win
ter wardrobe Is completed. and that the plan
ming OF spring clothes Is as yet not imperative
The Russian blouse idea will influence. 1t 10
prophesied. the fashioning OF tho new crinkled
cotton crspons and cotton Bedford cords or
oorduroys.as well as ginghams and chambreys.
A pretty illustration Of this mode is q brown
and ecru- striped cotton cord. with row Of
brown velvet ribbon at the edge OF the gored
skirt, which will put on almost indefinitely
the evil day OF laundering the gown. The
blouse is out with single dart and shaped I'M
der the arm seam, and with all the fulness
massed in the centre OF the front and back OF
the waist. where 1t Is held IN place by q mar;
row belt Of the brown velvet. The yoke and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

typical women OF the
century arc represent
ed In future years those
Of 1880 will be chosen
to represent its first
and those OF 1890 its
second half. The belle
OF 1890 was a spright-
ly. elegant person, In
wide undul la | n e
skirts, her shoulders
EN- crying from q line
Of fine lace. her tresses
gathered UP to the ton
Of her head. and her
huge hat, with its
Haunting plumes and
gracefully swsying
satin bows. On the
promenade s h Q still
wore q low-necked
gown, with a coQuet-
tishly adjusted shawl.
The main dress idea
OF the Second Empire
was the crinoline. con-
caricaturists, husbands,
of the Justly deserved
he only original inven-
shape, with q curtain
do and inside the brim.
he erinoline Is one OF
, OF the latter half OF the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

opened Wluely at inc
side from tho shoulder
to the hip to show the
under dress OF another
color. for contrast
either moro or less COW
cred with the designs
than tho surcoat. A
"garde corps" or bod
Ice front, Of ermine
adorns the upper part
OF the surcoat. the fur
cut low on tho shoulder
to exhibit the bosom
literally uncovered.
which display 'proach-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

gance for men. The coat Is rs exact dupll-
cate as the more slender lines Of woman's f1R-
ure will admit. 1t Is lined with brocaded satin.
gold. It is finished with splendidly, sparkling
buttons Of cut silver or painted medSlllons set
coat is OF white suede. or white corded silk
embroidered heavily with gold the ruflies and
cravat are Of fine point, and the gloves are
And. Tor evening a. most, taking little waist
may be made for this skirt by any clever
to this waist is gooi-ftting lining. which may
be taken from some Worn; out gown. and oyer
ths Wat OF pale ss rens
be OF velvet or Of silk like the skirt. and
is studded with Jet ,cabochons.. From the
velvet straps tie on the shoulders. With atiny
bonnet OF Jet, finished with blue ties. a half
way pretty woman makes q pleasing appear
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

$50 hoo otth toi. VI '
the interesting phases
century, The big hoop
ed crinoline, which n ow
belongs to the domain
OF archRology. was sue
ceeded In 1867 by fiat
trained gowns. and
fashion reduced the
width of skirts. until in
1880 they were actu-
ally moulded upon the
body. only to be sue
ceeded by the latest re.
yival OF the original
farthingale idea In
enormous bustles and
tournures of dress ex-
tenders. and again to
be reduced to almost
the scantness OF the
DAYS OF the Consulate.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

indian Print and lawn replaced the costly
tissues. and dressmnkers adhered to straight
lines. with little ornament. Lawn bodices
were made ehemise fashion. and skirts
the edge and sash hes to relieve their monotony.
During the Reign Of Terror modesty was for
second chemise. a. tunic OF Transparent
lawn. which Glu1e closely TO the .wearer's
body and was slit down at the hips ,Citizeness
gowns. revealed unblushingly her legs clad In
fesl-colored tights, with golden garters and
Skirt. when not, slit open at tie eide were
raised above the knee. fastened with a cameo
women who walked. the Champs Eiysees in
these transparent sheaths and with barred
bosoms were the friends OF Josephine de
Beauharnais. and belonged to the official world
Of the day lady's entire costume weighed
less than two pounds.
Under the Restoration fashion acquired
grace. distinction. and elegance. Whom the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

- the iconoclasts Of religion and revolution.
At later period miniatures. painted windows.
and tapestries. furnish more satisfactory infor-
nation. and in the fourteenth century the ac-
tual fashion plate appeared 1t was then In
the form Of dolls wearing model costumes
sent out from Paris. which then ruled the
mode. even as she does now. Certain great
ladies'. too. used to present each other with
dolls dressed by famous cutters" dress
nnakorsA and important towns received dresses
OF fashion by similar means. For centuries
Venice imported Paris doll. and exhibited on
Ascension Day waxen image Of Partisan
lady attired in the toilet Of tho year" for
the edifcation OF the noble Venetian danes.
who hocked eagerly to see the show. The
corset, then corslet Of thick stuff moulded to
the figure, the use Of rouge. and the wearing
Of false hair all date from the middle ages.
when Roman luxury invaded Guulish sim
piioity.
The bellies Of the middle ages were ar
rayed ihs robes emblazoned through all their
length with the family arms fashioned in
Ssurcoats." long garments with no sleeves.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

ladies. Rufus assumed fantastic proportions.
and stretched out ON brass wire their mngnitl-
cent laces and embroideries far above the
bodice. Headdresses were still low and Jewels
with long ends in iswelied workmanship was
part q every adys toilet .}nst and at s, Gne
the wearer carried in her hand constant
ly to inspect tho condition Of her pre-
was no longer the simple basquine. but On In;
strument OF torture in the form OF a solid
mould. into which the wearer was compressed
and remained in spite Of the splinters Of wood
that penetrated tho flesh. The long backed
bodices had enormous padded sleeves. as
thick on the shoulders as the whole body. and
were finished with deep. cuffs to match tho ruff.
The farthingale was enlarged like huge soup
turcen turned upside down. and over it were
worn two garments. the upper dress OF rich
trocade opening to show an under dress OF
different color.
After the reign Of Henry III. dress assumed
a more I'm pretending character. though on oc.
casions Of state tho ladies were still go laden
with jewels thai, they. could scarcely move
about Marie do Medicis wore a gown sOwn
with 5000 pearls and 5000 diamonds. The
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24
There is No
Substitute
OR ROYAL,

,1NoR ROYAL OVAL
" BAKING POWDER.
The "Royal" is
\ shown by all tests,
official, scientific,
and practical,
stronger, purer, and better
in every way than all other
baking powders.
Ifsome grocers try to sell
another baking powder in
place of the I" Royal" it is
because the other, being
made with cheaper and in
ferior materials, costs tner:
less. Thus, though selling
for the same, it gives less
value to the consumer.
Look with suspicion up.
on every attempt to palm
off upon you any baking
powder in place of the
"Royal." No other baking
powder will do its work.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

ladies Unidentified themselves for the torture
OF the corset by wearing, their bodices, cut
down 50 @n5ay that the pope threatened the
correctly dressed lady wore three skirts under
her gown. all Of different colors and yariously
lifting her dress on promenade Sad friends
scratched widoE Y"
coiors " Of the day Farthingaes We're smai t
but rufrs increased in height and size. sweep
ing out behind the head in semi circle.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

New cambrics. which come in the popular
Pompadour and Marie Antoinette designs. and
in Dubarry rose. Sevres blue. and delicate
green tints are made up effectively with a
yoke. belt, and band on the skirt Of rows Of
white lace beading overhanded together.
This beading is little more than one-Quarter
Of An inch In width and has oval apertures for
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

flciently long to admit Of the threading in and
out of an inch ribbon matching In tint the
dominant flower color In the pattern. The
skirt is gathered to q narrow belt ut the top.
The bodice has the buttonholes worked in
and front exactly alike. and around the waist
line. The ribbons threading In and out draw
the fulness in at the neck and about the waist,
tonholes are worked In pairs. two in a place.
half an inch from each u other; and the pairs
One OF the daintiest Of these dresses is in the
ever fnvorite violet pattern with a decoration
OF violet Toire ribbon. The bottom Of the
belt ties at the back with long ends.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

temned by journalists.
but victorious. In spite
censure. In bonnets I
ton was the cabriolet
and flowers both outsi
The rise and fall OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-24

ness Of the skins which nre scarcely more than
five inches from tho neck to the little hlnrk 'lp
OF tho tail. Between two and three hundred
skins are used in the bor!lerof q mantle or ine
bnnd which decorates dress skirt.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-27
ROUND ABOUT TOWN.

There is talk of the Jefferson club Civ
ing big ball before long.
Merchants report business excellent,
even if the holiday rush has passed.
The Santa Fe Daily Sun made its APP
pearance on tho streets this morning.
The largest stock of fancy candies that
ever came to town at c. L. Bishops.
The children of Ramona Indian school
will give public entertainment shortly.
Contracts for laying the Fort Marcy
sidewalks will be let at noon to-mor-
row.
Several young gentlemen of the city
are getting up social hop to take place
at Grays hall tomorrow evening.
A large assortment of confectionery
nuts, fruit and poultry at G. L. Bishops
High winds and storm in Kansas de-
layed the trains from the east last night
Warrants have been sent to Deputy
Sheriff Neis at Cerrillos for the arrest of
Frank Romero and Billy Kane, who were
in Saturday nights row. The trial of
Jim Higgins and Frank Arce has again
been postponed owing to the sickness of
the latter.
Visitors at Colds Museum: j. r. Fay,
Vim. II. Hamilton, Topeka, Kas.;T. West
Kansas City, Mo-; A. Moring, Wichita,
Kas.; Dave Blake, Pittsburg, Pa; Il. A,
Harding, Deming, N. NJ. M. Corrin, Dem
ing, N. NJ; Miss Mabel Wortz, Henry Co
ker, Denver, Colo,
c. W, Dudrow has received eighteen car
loads of lumber over the Santa Fe South
ern road for the water company's improve.
ments. His present contract calls for
the delivery of 100000 feet, but he says
he expects to deliver the company 3,000,-
900 feet inside the next eight months
The stuff comes from the Biggs Lumber
company at Chama.
Beyond the suspension of City Marshal
Gray and the appointment of Clemente
Ortiz as policeman in place of Seferino
Alarid, resigned for better job, no
changes have taken place in the city po-
lice force. Marshall Gray, who is charged
with gross neglect of his official duties in
not properly preserving the public peace,
will have hearing before the city coun-
Gil on Monday night next.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-27
LEGISLATIVE CHAT.

/ bIoAobh r. Shhi'
a = For the present the capital question is
not ION tap"
! Hon. Pedro Sanchez will be found u
valuable member of the council.
H. B. Holt, reading clerk of the council,
will make fine record for himself
Hon. Ambrosio Pine looks like a good
solid man and will vote accordingly.
Speaker Branch gave the new employees
quite lecture just after adjournment.
San Miguel county carried off the
cream of the fat positions in the house.
Manuel G. de Baca, a stalwart Repub-
lican of San Miguel county, is in Santa
Fe.
Mr.. Hatton, reading clerk, has not yet
reported for duty. He halls from Dona
Ana.
Senator Frank Hubbel will be found
alert, quick and courageous during the
session.
Who changed the list of house employees
after the Democratic caucus had agreed
upon thems
Summit county out of western Valen-
! Cld anu DtrudllilO, IN TdlsluR llS Heuu
above the shadowy deep.
DR.. Stovall is good deal of hustler,
hence Florida county advocates can af-
ford to smile.
There are twenty-six employees of the
house and the member from Colfax says
this is only starter,
Sheriff John H. Burns, of Rio Arriba
county, arrived last night and took in the
legislative council this morning.
Senator Patterson knows what he wants
and proposes to act for the best interests
of the people. Correct he.
What has become of Representative
Bowman, of San Juan county? He has
not yet put in an appearance.
| As good q man as there is in the as
sembly is Hon. I. d, Burns Of Rio Ar
riba county; slow but sure he,
Secretary Alexander is proving himself
good and efficient official he knows his
duty and proposes to carry it out to the
letter.
Hon. Celso Baca seems to have got
left in the shuttle between the caucus and
| the house. His friends, the enemy. are
pretty smart.
There is quite little surprise in store
for a good many of the house appointees.
Punic faith was kept in the payment of
many election promises
Pinto Pine has been connected with
every legislature since 1876. He will
make an excellent clerk to the council
penitentiary committee.
Hon. T. B. Mills, of Las Vegas, will
spend the session In Santa Fe. The ex-
senator is very smooth. His family will
come down toward the close.
There is quite little Joking of Chief
Clerk Hunt. 1t is said he secured his ap-
pointment because he is unfavorable to
the capital removal scheme.
John L. Zimmerman, journal clerk of
the house, is no othor than the well known
young druggist, formerly of Las Vegas,
now in business at Roswell. He Is very
competent.
For the present the capital removal
proposition ia q dead duck. However,
much quiet work is going on and it be-
hooves the friends of fair play to keep
their eyes open.
On Monday next the I'd of January, the
county assessors of the territory as
semble in Santa Fe to look after their in
terests in the matter of fees before the
legislative assembly.
Filadelfo Baca, of Las Vegas, was
chief clerk of the house at the last SEES
sion. 10 made q capable and seurtsous