New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17
A VISIT TO "ARCADIA."
DANCING OF TIE TSIGANES IN THE WINTER
RESORTS OF ST. PETERSBURG.
St. Petersburg. March "a.

efectually upon all social pleasures at St Peters
burg than IN any other city in the world ~,
most social centres certain pleasures in diiu'eu
form are prescribed for Lent. but in the Russian
capital the gay season ceases as suddenly as liSh'
that Is eXtihguished. The Gar retlres I'd "aV
china, the theatres close their doors ana te ol'"o
doX people think Of the salvation oil thelr souiS
and make their dcvOtions AT Paques the socia'
lights flicker for a few days. but the nrst iea'es
are the signal for departure and all ~. Teti'-
burg dsperses TO the four corners OF the earth'
The list of recreations and social enloyments
is much the same as that offered AT Paris WIN thS
difference At ST. Petersburg less time is gwen 10
the cafe and the promenade. and more TO carus
The play is the same, but with different acloi'
and different settings. Besides the theatres pli's
and entertainments and the many diversions ina.
with slight notifications are TO be found IN al
the principal cities in Europe, St petersburg OIL
fers certain attractions 70 he had nowhere else in
the world. To the stranger their chei CHARM -
their novelty. and this Characteristic they cer-
tanly possess to o marked degree. There are the
festivals on mdwinter nights at the Garden OF
Youssoupof the long rides on icc-boats and polar
Yachts that skim over the ice as if borne by the
wind cutting fancy figures in their evolutlons,
and thc slides down the mountains Of ice, over
tracks as smooth as glass, down which the sleds
Glide almost as swiftly a. if on vertical chute
II ESQ ore among the fashionable outdoor recrea-
tons.
The most recherche diversion is sled prone
made which is anything bnt slow promenade
and for this the young bloods willingly part with
their precious roubles. This entertainment con-
sists of long sleigh ride to one of the small
islands and midnight supper having all the charm
that Russian embellishments can give. beSlies
songs and dances of the tsganes for the novel and
exonisite dessert. There are number of these
islands that boast of cafes famous for their cut
sine and their tsiganes
Given an evening when the thermometer registers
n few degrees above zero, when gentle WIND IS
astir and the stars are all out. and you have the
propcr conditions for perfect ride. You VIII De
eNhilarated by the few hours IN the cola air anu
rcodv 70 enjoy the indoor part of the programme
later These trips are made in the scds and trolka
tbe famous Russian cquipagc, where three horses
are used The horse i'm the centre keeps ND brlsK
trot and the other two gallop swiftly, with an out
ward fan-like motion, holding their heads playfully
70 one side If YOU stop at the Simeon bridge
10 got your conveyances. two or three drivers
crowd in front of the line to show their attelages
and offer shrr services For the sum of ten rou-
bles the driver and his troika are at your service
until morning The iamchtchik, distinguished from
the izkostchik by his turban trimmed with pea
cock feathers, climbs into the sleigh wheh once
YOU are seated. gathers up his rens. ana you are
oY on the river for one Of the islands
II is impossible 10 describe the charm OF tins
ride on n winter night One seems 10 be borne on
the wings Of the wind. swift and lmperceptioie
is the motion The river outlined by fir trees ana
cvcrgrcrns on either side lies before the traveller
ike an immense sheet, white and phosphorscent.
bordcrcd by black wharvcs and tiers of yellow
lights The lights, separately distlnguishapie at
first gradually rcccde and from distance appear
AZ a slender belt of fire Further to the LEFT the
electric globes form a necklace of blue pearls Tor
the winter palace After travelling several hours
in tie stiffness Of night broken only by the
horses bells over the deserted roads and through
the silent woods. the troika finally turns 10 the
right. and stops in front Of an arched gate baz-
ing with lights II is Arcadia, one Of the favorlte
resorts Two or three servants rush out TO assist
YOU 10 alight and accompanying you into walt
ing room remove your wraps. and administer 10
your comfort generally The "promenaders are
conducted into the winter garden If they wish,
where they dine 10 the soft strains Of a vienna
orchestra but those who come TO see the tsEanes.
the attaches OF Arcadia pass into another room
4 servant takes the orders for supprrs ana speaks
10 the singers, who Hr waiting In side room.
Tie 7azouska is excellent the consomne ana gaceS
are above criticism. Al the proper time In the
course Of the supper door opens softly and the
tsigonea enter There are ten gayly dressed
women. and half a. many men. Several OF the
women are young and very pretty. and there is the
suggestion Of the halfsavage in their nature
They are vcritablc Bohcmians with a mixture Of
the Hungarian and Oriental elements Their
brilliant black eyes, half concealed by their long
lashes give you now and then surreptitlous
glance from under their passionate lids. The
bronze skin makes their lips look reddcr and the
teeth whittier by contrast. They resemble gypsies
and Ike them are rowing and restless, wandering
over Eastern Europe ana Asia, but they differ
from thcs. inferior tribes in not being unkcmpt
and untidy They are always extensively dressed,
and have "A veneer of civilized manners.
They arrange themselves in a seulicirclc, the
women in 'front.' and the in their black caf
fans or Turkish vests, and red skin sleeves.
standing behind, shifting their positions occa-
sionally ms they solemny finger their guitars
The long dropping mu>t1ches give their faces
hardened. almost respondent look. not necessarily
in keeping with their characters.
The leader, the famous ChichlliEc himself
gives the signal and one OF the women gives the
tone in a low minor note which the singers softly
take up. What concord of weird sounds they
produce The women lave far from remarkable
voices The tones are decidedly nasal, and their
manner Of singing would be strongly criticised
10y any amateur, but their voices have peculiarly
sympathetic quality and the effect OF their sing
ing is wonderful The t>icanc melodies, by turn
mournful, passionate. caiesSing and paintiyc. are
sung with such ardor such genuine feeling. such
transport at times, that the listener is sprllbound
and completely carried away The blood is on
I'll
mad delight Of this wild and fascinating melody.
There is strain of herccncsS in the music. rs in
the nature of the Oriental, and the wcirlncss and
madness Of it makes one realize why music is the
most mysterious Of all arts.
After the songs comes tie dancc-the very poetry