New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-11-06
THE FASHIONS.
FULL WAISTS AND Dc SLEEVES.
SKIRTS ARE FULLER-EMPIRE DRESsES-EVEN'
,,,o oo,r>,. x,rr,r c,prc Avn poIS :
ING COwNS-LfTTLE CAPEs

|
ING GowNs-LITTLE cAPEs AND BoAs.
The greatest changes In the Of gowns and wraps
this consist the eyaggeration OF he summer
styles and their adaptation 10 the Heavier ana rches
goods used In winter The skirts are percepuoy
fuller tim they been Walking dresses bareiy
touch the q at the back but are now fuh fous
| wards around the bottom. This extra fnIness
| ned In at the back IN cluster OF pisats ana oy
OF cores. 10 make the skirt q''lo sWoo'h ~
| TIE front and sides. Striped material and srlpeo
effects jetted embroideries ussd to relieve the
extreme painness Of these skirts The skirt Of plain
| tailor made gowns often finished by few rows
OF stitching. by three OF bias folds headed oy
| a roll OF dark velvet row OF braid When fo'ds
used they vary IN width fom two inches 10 rour
| the narrow width Is considered tie prettiest. They
| should he placed the distance apart az theiP
| width. A great many plain skirts now seen
than last season. Demrained skirts for reception
carriage and house often five yards in cir
cum.errpce The OF striped brocades and stripes
embroid-res Of Jet Is noteworthy feature OF these
gowns
The bodice remains. as II has been for some time,
The Characteristic part Of the costume. Jacket enects
in trimming and separate jackets Of various
makes are exceedingly popular In tailor gowns. In
these simple cloth and cheviot dresses designed for
the promenade the cOrsaee seldom reaches below tns
waist line though few corsaSes are shown with lono
swallow tailed backs and loose jacket fronts. and stu
ot d
coat with long back and short fronts. outtoned low
and open to psy high vest and rufned shirt 'front.'
The full waist and the blouse promise to continue
their career throughout the winter In gay plaid sx
and In the brlianthued narrow veves That rcnece
different hues In some the top Of the drcss
skirt Is simply finished with band OF TURKISH en-
brodery showing the coors In the gay plaid blouse,
and is made the bolt In Others the top OF
the skirt is finished by a wide Empire belt composed
Of folds OF plaid silk. Heavy, warm, Gamers nair
serges In ecr grays and dark blues the materials
most often used with these plaid waists OF silR
short waisted BOero jacket or an Eton jacket maze
with a plain back without seam, wide notched
revers collar and one dart in each front to
iii II 10 the figure. almost invariably accompanies the
plaid blouses Sometimes the jacket Is rounded at the
corners IN front and cut up the back In Mihauo
fashion; or It is finished With loose hanging fronts
slightly pointed. Jaunty little pockets are some
times placed high mp on either side. midway OF the
waist. These might pass for watch pockets. but for
the fact that they placed on both sides. When
The blouse Is made OF rich material velvet no
jacket Is used to cover It, but the skirt Is made in
princess style like chlld's gimp dress, and comes
up just high enough 10 display fully the upper part
VI the waist and shoulders and sleeves OF the velvet
bodice. In some cases a panel Of the same rich
material is inserted In the left side Of the skirt In
other a touch OF velvet Is put in an Inch
plating merely on the edge OF the skirt. Thus y
dress OF heavy coppery brown camels hair Is made
with "A shirt OF four yards gnred In princess styls
into straight edged corselet belt full waist OF
green mirOr velvet rejecting blue shades Is worn
above the skirt and held down by the corselet belt.
>ti another gown OF soft ecru camels hair is made
mp with shirt finished by sleeves and full fronts
Of plaid velvet in soft gay hue. jaunty Chinese
jacket. open up the back (where fold OF plaid velvet
Is and extended Into short little point, each
side Of the 'front.', IS worn with this dress, and
finished by narrow torder Of gay crystal passe
mentere In The coors Of The velvet. spangIed passe
menteri-s and narrow ietted gimps all used az
borders to The new jackets ard 10 band the new
pur sleeves In triple bands, Ike the armlets Of old
The sleeves merely application OF the
fun sleeve Of last summer they fall from the shoulder
seam and give the effect OF greater length To It, In
reality this Is not much longer than II has been,
though it appears longer, owing to the manner In
which the sleeve fails away from it, The sleeves OF
the new evening gowns huge puts Of velvet OF
chiffon some material used in trimming the dress
oftener than Of the dress material Itself.
Evening dresses are usually made In some modifcG
ton % the princess style The muclalked OF Empire
sy~ Of dress nothing more than princess dress
wound high under the with wide scarf that
hangs low over the dress skirt The prevailing colors
for evening wear are pale Nile green's and rose
ints: cream aud yellow hues remain In hSe but are
no longer pre- eminent. There are also many pale
Violet c0lOr> used I'm combination with water greens
u
chiffon and finished with narrow hayaeusc peauno
Of velvet Of the royal purple hue called his season
.mlnence a charming French dress Of the new
vrlllc" or nlct corded bengalne go called from the
waved screw like appearance Of the coras) was re-
Gently imported. 1t was pale stein-grecn IN eoof
The wide demilruine skirt finished with rafcis
OF white satin. embroidered with tiny steel beads Tho
VIDE Empire belt composed OF five rows OF white
satin folds embroidered their overlapping edges
The corSage WAS cut low, pointed sharply back ana
'front.' aud daped slightly around the neck WIN paio
sladOwy green chiffon, ard completed by large pu"eo
demi.sieeNcs Of paest green chiffon.
En.lfe costumes Of black cIepe de chine. richly en-
lrulJrred with let and finished without touch Oh
color except in The pl.ainy OF emincnce purple or
ru,cst Nile green at ID. edge OF the SKIRT are sent
over by Felix FOR evening wear. Brocadcs In "ids
stripes Of solid color OI two delicate coofs soiJ
neI ed into each other are especially desrab'e' -
charming gown Of pale Nile green brocade shaded Into
alnt-hied hcotrope was made Ia princess SVle WIN
a severely plain shirt and close lifting corsage cut
decoletc the short sleeves OF the dress were iormeu
Of emerald green velvet. and miror velve; In pale
r.cer rejecting heliotrope hues The sleeves were
arranged in two huge puts. surmonnted by faii OF
I'D Venice lace and hand Of silver emoroioery'
Another dress OK pale scvrcs rose Drocaue WAS
Trimmed around The edge VI the trained skirt Win
narrow fold OF pink Chiffon caught down at Intervals
Ly IRA. lovers knots. The corsage was made In ono
niece with the skirt by princess seams but was
uInped to form an Empire dress by inSh iuii put
clusn scarf pink emIOn the ends OF winch leii 70
iLc bottom OF the dress skirt. short tfanspnrene
sleeve, of pink chiffon arranged IN huge pun COM
p.eed the corsaSc. -, -,-. -.-,...
\ few rlch reception dIess"s OF dark velvet suped
with baNadrry rainbow stripes Of satin sunk IN the
",T,t nilr Lav. been imported this season, but II
: noi likely That la aJcre stripes VIII ever become
popular again, rs they are only pecomhg 10 eAcep-
"A, ua.N tail slender women. IN uhe a'eIags
woman wide tayadcre stripes give the effect Of "a
rud nrl,l which IL l. extremely desirable 10 avoid
A cr,.,t deal OF maize chiffon Is used this season In
ronn.ction with black ami brilliant cOquelcot red
is again combined with black ana VIII Tie darKest
shades OF uNegrCcn.
Ev.ripc copcs of ane ladies' cloth, in delicate. es
thstie hines nike erIacOtta, Nile green, old pink or
yicux blue are being made mp In Henri DcuX SHAPE.
aud lined i'm striped Powered brocadc In delicate pat
terms and faint I" fade colors.