The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1892-12-11

turned up in three cornered shape and fas-
tened with a button. The front Is short
and pointed and opens over the vest Coat
sleeve very slightly raised, with haring
cuff corded The front breadth Of the skirt
| is tapped and corded down the sides. A
double cord dnishesthe bottom. The cords
are as large as little finger. One row OF
stitching follows the cords.
The cheviot fabric Just described is one
/ of the chief novelties of the season. 1t
resembles serge, the warp showing one
color and the welt another. The effect Is
very pleasing. 1t may be had in blue and
red, brown and gray, violet and gray aud
other colors.
An English design has a fitted waist
with plain skirts sewed on below the waist
line, like riding habit, and falling slightly
open over a vest. There are pockets In
the skirts, and the fronts are ornamented
with buttons and false button holes put on
with braid. The top is turned over with
revers and collar, and the sleeves are not
raised at ali at the armholes. This IS
favored model in cloth.
THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE.
The tailors have preserved the Russian.
blouse. 1t is a sort CT compromise they
make with the round waist For 1t takes
a belt Don't copy those that have the
blouse skirt gathered separately and
sewed on under the belt. The gathers do
not coincide with the waist gathers and
the effect is bad An extremely elegant
one, as choice design as the tailors have
| furnished, is of long three-quarters'
length, cut all in one piece. AT the belt II
is laid into plat, turning inward. Ii can
be double breasted or single. have seen
one carried out in mixed homespun, with
| black braided borders and beaver FUR
edges. The skirt of the blouse was
slashed up some inches on each side Thls
is good model for cloth. Much braldlng
is used on wool gowns. Yokes, bands,
vests are covered with it. 1t is done by
machine. Beaver and astrakan are the
preferred furs of the tailor. They are In
| expensive and harmonic with the char
acter Of the fabrics.
But the most popular design, especially
| for blue 5erges, is still the garcon jacket
and silk blouse. Nothing else is SO chic.
! Sometimes the jacket is short like Zouave,
| with gimp and crotcheted drops on the
edge, with q sash of silk or ribbon of the
! blue, tied behind little at one side, and
sometimes it is TO the bottom Of the waist,
very close behind, with generous flowing
revers in front In the matter of revers
English jackets are very severe, with
straight lines, and the French permit flow
ing curves, so you may take your choice.
A cloth vest can be worn with this style if
the jacket reaches the bottom Of the waist.
The vest must run underneath the skirt
and the skirt be finished without binding
! as I described in another letter. Such q
vest too should be fastened invisibly.
WILL PLEASE THE REFoMRERs.
It is quite the orthodox thing to wear for
country walks skirt that reaches only to
the ankle Women of fashion look on this
dress as costume just as riding habit is,
and this makes the appearing in it easier.
Overgaiters to match are feature OF the
dress, as they serve to carry the color OF
the dress discreetly down to the feet so
Disgusting somewhat the gap between.