Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1892-10-23


its big sleeves ending in long, tight
ribbed cuffs, and its little russet nat,
with cream-colored plume, the outtit was
more successful than most other ~
tempts, IL no more justiiable:
VARIATIONS OF THE wATTEAU SCHEME.
At a reception yesterday following
one of the autumn weddings l pleased
myself with checking off the dozen ana
one variations in elaborate dress on the
Vatican scheme. The mostinteresting
thing | noticed was rose pink gown OF
a dull surfaced silk, with double rucn-
| ing OF block velvet, lined with pink at
the bottom. The silk was gathered 10
standing ruch about the throat ana
across the bosom, giving the erect OF
yoke, was attached drapery OF pink
chiffon embroidered in black with
threads of gold and falling away IN
loose draperies, parting In front ana
arranged iu long cascades TO the moor.
A big black velvet bow held the chiffon
over the shoulders, following the lines
of the arm-holes about and hanging
from the yoke behind loosely on either
side. The chiffon was gathered to the
waist in the back, held with a rosette
and allowed to fall in box plaits, sweep
ing away like the front cascades.
COMB UNDER THE SAME HEAD.
Another somewhat notable costume
was stone-gray princess dress with a
train and with a cape-like drapery
about the shoulders delicately emorold-
cred in silver with dashes OF red. ms
drapery was fastened on either side OF
the front, leaving something OF an open.
ing, and was then drawn down, scarf
fashion, to a point just below the oust,
held there with a velvet bow and long
ends and allow to fall itself in broad
folds to the ground. Arrangements
like this and some Of the others spoken
OF are not strictly classed as Watteaus,
but they come under the same general
heading Of loose draperies which bear
no necessary relation TO the gown.
WITH A LACE FLoUNCE ABOVE.
The idea crops out in the evening
dress constantly, especially in empire
design. Take, for example, pale blue
faille made up for recent troussean.
The silk was gathered from the shout
ders to a point on the bosom, leaving
the neck bare. 1t was held by knot OF
blue velvet, and from it fell, loose and
full, gathered drapery OF lace de-
scending in cascades upon the hips aud
carried up under the arms to fall again
in the back as a Vatican. The skirt
was trimmed with a muslin puff, with
lace flounce above and a muslin ruche
to head all. The sleeves were short
velvet puffs met by gloves OF pale blue.
THE DARLiNGS REJOICE.
For the rest there is great rejoicing
in color. Women walk the streets and
face you in the shops and picture gal
leries In deep rich amethyst pie and
dark pinkish reds and in an immense
range OF greens. There is more haste
than the season demands in putting on
velvet and fur-warm-colored velvet
and dark fur to stand out in luxurious
contrast. | remember woman who
passed me on the street few days ago
10 a wonderful Henri III. cape OF brill
brilliant blue velvet with broad Greek
fret embroidery of jet and silk and q
narrow border OF iridescent cocks
tie which distingues this sort OF cape
and the high plated collar had cocks
feather trimmings TO correspond. It's
worth watching when a woman sweeps
down the street in q marvel OF this sort,
with one hand full Of autumn roses and
the other extended to pick up the tail
of her dark-blue cloth-embroidered
gown.
LOST IN A CAPE.
The capes OF the season are very full
and generously enveloping. One gets
lost in the depths Of great circle Of
violet velvet, with minks tails fringing
IL about the shoulders and three rows
more of the caudal appendages OF the
unlucky little beasts TO trim 1t at bot
| tom.
Velvet and fur belong quite as much
! TO the house as to the street. IL Is a
part OF the still prevalent Russian craze
that when your hostess pours tea OF an
afternoon it is more likely than not to
be in some dull-red cloth robe, folded
across in front with o border Of sable
that runs around the throat and down
to the floor, and with sleeves and per-
haps an entire side on the train at the
back OF black, or may be blue velvet or
corduroy.
MISS TAILER's GREEN SERGE.
The coaching season brings out the
prettiest outdoor frocks OF October.
Miss Fannie Taller on the Rapid the
other day wore a particularly smart
dark green serge dress, rough OF tex
ture and with huge plaid family
checked off in hair lines OF pale blue
1t was an absolutely plain tailor gown
of princess cut, with a small, pointed
Figaro jacket OF green velvet turned
back in wide lapels upon the bosom and
lined with pale blue silk shining out
dimly. With this outfit was a fat,
green felt hat with velvet ribbons and
dark-green curling plumes.
Another dress that would serve ex-
cellently well as model is brown and
cream -colored check made bright by
threads of crimson. 1t has long Rus
sian blouse for top, belted with GRIM
son velvet ribbon, and Is otherwise
plain, except for its full sleeves gath
cred to the wrist and then spreading
again in broad cuffs that are gathered
like ruffies.
WONDER IN FEATHER TRIMMINGS
There isn't much new in millinery,
but a continual wonder is the upright
ness of the feather trimmings. Plumes
are grouped like flowers and then plan
ted on the extreme top Of the crown.
They have no choice but to stand erect
and wave, and they do it bravely. al
most as II they found it natural and
easy. One OF the favorire millinery
flowers is the chrysanthemun, and 1t
is sometimes so big or the bonnet so
little that it provides the only and, by
custom. all-sufficient head covering.