Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1892-12-30


When the drapery is all in place and firm
ly held by pins it should be sewn down to
the foundation by waxed linen or cotton
thread. Silk, no matter how we'll fastened.
will work loose in short time.
The facing of a skirt to make it hang
we'll and wear well is a tedious work, but
remember that one gown well made will
give more comfort and satisfaction than
half dozen slammed together in any way,
and SO it is worth while to take pains.
Wigan or tailor's buckram makes the
firmness, and a band-bias preferably-is
stitched to a straight piece of linen two
inches wider. To this again is stitched
alpaca, not quite so wide as the linen the
top edge being turned in. This leaves the
! linen to be sewn to the outside by invisible
catstitches or a couple of rows of machine
sewing, but the hand sewn is far BETTER
as dust will settle in the machine work
The best way to sew the bottom is to have
the whole sewn in seam with the skirt,
and then turned under, pressed and
hemmed. 1t is a matter of taste as to how
the bottom shall be finished-with mohair
braid, or bias velutina binding, or a puff or
other narrow trimming put on the edge.
Reversed plating is also used.
At present rose plating is considered
over three or four inches wide, and it is
often not over one inch. 1t requires to be
hemmed on both edges, and must have
just siA times as many yards of material
to plat as the skirt is around. An illus
tration of rose plating is given; also one
of double box plaits, one of the puff and
one of the narrow bias ruffiing, which,
with few rows of narrow braid, make up
the trimming that will be most fashion
able for some time to come.
When beaded passementerie is used, as
it still is on silks and Priestly silk warp
henriettas and fine cashmeres, the needle
and thread should always he passed back
ward and under, and the edges all care
fully sewn down. and the outline must be
closely followed.
Fringe, and particularly beaded fringe,
needs to be sewn from the top edge, the
needle being set in from the top and the
thread held high. If feather or fur trim
mings are to be used, the edges of the skin
should be slightly turned in. Wet it if it
is unruly.
If it is desired to border IA collar or any
other portion of costume with pea beads,
string them on a fine wire and sew that
one stitch between each two beads. Other
wise they will be crooked.
If lace is to be used as flounces, it should
be gathered on "A strong thread just the
width of the skirt allowing two inches
for ''takeup" Sew it together, and theI
quarter it by means of pins, and pin the
quarter points to the skirt, having rather
more fullness in front and on the sides
than in the back. Then it can be sewn on
holding the skirt toward you to be sur,
that the lace does not slip down below thu
edge of the skirt.
Making velvet bands for skirts or panels
Is particular job, and there is just on,
way to do it right, and that is to line /
with stout crinoline, and turn in the edge
half an inch all around and herringbone i
to the crinoline.
When skirt has been finished aroun'
the bottom and the trimming put on, it i
ready for the pocket and the waistband
This should be a narrow tape, the narrowe
the better. A few cross stitches should b
set in the middle Of the front and hool
!. and eye in the back. Nearly all dresse
|. open in the back, but some open shcr
, distance down the left hip and are but
J. toned with fancy buttons. Two loops t
hang up by 20 on the belt and an elasti
}. to hold the back plaits in place. Set tn
) pocket where it will be hidden among tn
back plaits. OLIVE HARPER