St. Paul daily globe., 1892-05-29
A TENNIS NOVELTY.
A Gown by Redfern Which
Will Be Very Pretty,
Indeed.
Toilette Of FoulaPd Silk, With
Plain Panels on the
Skirt.
A Great Variety Of Silks Are
Now Being Used in
Gowns.
Gloves in Any Color and Style
in a Couple Of
Hours.

Special to the Globe.
New YORK, May 27.-The afternoon
gown is a gown that should be adjusted
carefully. AnafternOon call is an occa-
sion when woman should attire her
self with an extra amount of care. She
knows full well that she will have
critical audience. The men who will
be there will probably be of the tame
cat species, whose opinion she does not
value much. All the manly specimens
will be away exercising their brains
over things that women say they don't
understand, but there will be the other
women. They will have no mercy over
a last summers gown sufficiently dis
gused with few additions admins
tered by some prentice hand. They
will have no mercy over a soiled pair of
gloves or shapeIess shoe. They will
ali know where that hat was got as well
as if they could look through the crown
into the inside, and seem to read the
gold label without seeing it.
There is heap of difference between
a mans criticism and wOman'S. A
mans is as it should be-broader. He
is above such petty details as the style
being that of a season back or the few
tell-tale wrinkles which are the dead
give-away of a secOnd-rate dressmaker.
He doesn't care much whether up
right plumeS have gone out of fash
ion as long as they surmOunt pretty
face. 1t is the ''tOut ensemble" that
they take in, and leave minor details to
the women. to whom these things are
intensely interesting. All the time that
the spirited. fiippant conversation is
going on, while peoples characters are
being ruthlessly destroyed and the
dainty cups of afternoon tea are being
slipped, the keen eyes are attentively
taking in all the details of the visitors
apparel. 1t is one of the unwritten
rdleS of the game. On this occasion,
then, that individuality of dress, which
is considered characteristic Of the
American girl, will receive its quota of
attention.
For afternoon calls, Redfern gener-
ally recommends light foulard gowns at
this season of the year. They are thin,
cool and charmingly preety, and, IN
conjunction with the laces which are
being made in every pattern and text
ure, make charming toilettes.. A great
variety of silks are being manufactured
just now, most of them figured with
rather large patterns in white on col
Ored ground. They are made with the
skirts narrow, fOrreau and on bias, land all
have some narrow trimming at the edge,
a ruche or one or two narrow fOunceS.
The bodiceS are rather short wasted,
and negligee effect is generally aimed
at. Thus kind of draped reYer very
full. and falling over the sleeves and
ripping irregularly into the belt, form
ing sort of tichu, is seen on these
gowns more than more formal styles of
trimming. These trimmings are made
of the figured silks lined with another
silk the same cOlora as tile ground of the
costume. Such unusual colOrs are seen
in these silks. aud fashion demanding
close match in the matter of gloves, that
ladies who shop at Redfern's are glad
to find III the glove store beneath
place where gloves are made in any
color and style in two hours.
The Chanut glove is made to the
shape of the hand, and there is none of
that pinched look after this process that
cripples and diSfgures the hand while
clad in tight glove. The fact that
women are beginning to have the hand
sensibly covered and the glove fitted to
the hand instead of the hand fitted to
the glove shows that good sense is on
the increase.