Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1892-12-31

there Il n faint odor of the land. The
chief wheelman comforts you with,
"Doan't mind II, mon. The best there
be doan't be able TO stand on their legs
hereaboutl"
Away to the right is now seen the
light at the French cape OF Griz Nez
Soon your steamer begins skirting the
coast. Here and there are glintings
and glimmerings OF light from the coast
wise villages, where the late revel or
vigil is being kept. The pier head light
at Calais grows and glows. Over the
looming quay where the sea plays mad
havoc Is a continuous wrea,hing OF flash.
ing phosphorescence. Speedily now
your steamer literally gallops into port.
Here NJ one side are the fantastic fish
ing craft and the helying Fighters" At
the other, as the bedraggled passengers
crowd TO the gangway opening, are
rows OF French porters, bowling and
scraping and chattering glbly. The
weird crcssets flare over the picture
strangely; and a flavor oi decaying, salty
things, Of hali.digested Cognac and OF
penetrating garlic Is over ALL
And what din is there
With swash and bump the
"Storm" is finally made fast. Then the
perilous midnight ascent to the docks,
the keen-eyed customs officers, the
skirmishes and more serious engage
ments with porters, the cries OF the
guards, the miserable entanglcments
and wild.eyed sorties, and finally, the
mad haste to the different trans for
Paris, for Vienna and for Berlin. In
half an hour everything has come to
al has.
doHSl" and "reMe, eies" been hustled
into one carriage only to be hustled out
of this into another; and at last you are
locked tightly within one which has got
you safely for n little time.
Then, certain OF still being all wrong,
the train moves away from the docks
weaving and swaying past where red
shifted French boys play through long
summer days on golden sands; past
frowning battlements; past quaint old
rookeries OF the seaport town; under.
meath the shadows OF the great Calais
lighthouse; past outjutiing roofs and
underneath ovcrreaching balconies and
hood.like arches. until at last, with
o bump that brings you to your feet, you
are within another raging din where
trains are made up for all parts Of the
continent.
Here porters with blue blouses and
red-rimmed caps, guards with gold lace
and itching palms and gems a aymes
with bow legs and Quixotic stateliness,
again hustle you; tear your tickets from
you; throw your baggage after you; com
misserate you; wheedled you; take your
boNyb0iyc and hurl you, as from cata.
pult, into carriage compartment,
where, sick in body and demented in
mind, you sink exhausted into perturbed
sleep as the hour Of one is tolled from
the ghostly towers of the Calais
churches; haunted by dreams OF Brob.
dignagian, gaudily dressed guards con-
tinuing infinite tortures through compart.
men, windows, supplemented by in.
visible choruses OF
We ponS ,eOer6fei"-
''Iayd0nne= moD'-
fitted TO the staccato OF the wheels upon
the rails, ever after carried in the mem
DRY like some Internal realization OF a
wiIch-wailed Walpurgis Night.
There is great distinction between
British tipping" and American tip
ping" In Great Britain, Your true
Briion tips" with some,hiHs like UNI
conscious kindness. we Americans
who travel in Europe bestow our
gratuities largely, loosely, loudly, as
though we were either defying criticism
or resenting petty brigandage.