Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-12-11
IMPRESSIONS PARIsIAN.
rwnrrrrx ron rHE DIsrArcH.I 1


the special requiem mass for the repose ol
the soul OF the Queen of Wurtemberg, who
died three days before the annual Fste dea
Morts.
She was Olga, the much-loved daughter
of Nicholas, the Aurocrat, sister Of the muir
dered Alexander, the Liberator, and the
aunt OF the present Gear. To judge By the
grave, respectful manner of the few Rus
SLAMS, who stood waiting in the Rue
Daru and the Rue Pierre 10 Grand
for permission to enter, she seems to have
had the genuine affection OF her people too.
The small but magnificent building was
filed almost exclusively by subjects OF the
Gear, all others being kept back until mem
bers Of the Imperial family and the Russian
embassy were placed. For them, as chief
mourners, seats were provided beneath the
stately central dome, the body OF the
church, though thickly carpeted and richly
adorned with gliding and frescoes, being
bare of furniture. Here, facing the Ikonos-
tas or place of the holy images, stood the
worshipers in solid mass.
Scenes at Russian worship.
THERE was q remarkable difference be-
tween this congregation and that at the
Madeleine on the previous day, at the serv-
ice Of All Saints. Men predominRted; many
OF them were gray-bearded, with broad
shoulders slightly stopped; larger, hand
somer, more-earnest and imposing than the
volatile Parisians. A great number bore
lighted tapers, and moved theirlips silently,
in accordance with the chanting OF the
priests. From time to time they crossed
themselves devoutly, and, alta certain sway
ing sound of the exquisite music, they knelt,
bowfng their heads rlmost to the ground.
The walls above, touched by the ftful sun
shine of a snowery morning, were splendid
with Scripture scenes and texts in the
strange Russian characters, brilliant with
gold and many colors. One arm OF the beau
tiful cross-shaped church is shut or by the
Ikonostas; the carved and gilded screen be-
ing also painted with figures Of Christ, the
Virgin and several Russian saints. Through
q door could be seen the inner sanctuary, in
the center Of which stood lofty crucifx,
surrounded by burning candles, and at the
farthest extremity a large picture Of the
Savior in the attitude of blessing. Beneath
the dome stood the arch priest, Vassilien,
and two other priests OF the Greek Church,
dressed in their gorgeous robes Of purple
and black embroidered with silver.
Recalled One OF verestchagin's Pictures.
IT reminded me of Verestchagin's famous
picture, 1.-THE Field OF the Dead" where
Russian priest and soldier, standing together
strewn with the dead, recite this same
requiem mass. The priests chanted, one by
one, in deep musical voices, and an invisible
choir sang the responses. The unintelligfble
words became full of meaning as they
swelled up fervent and implorfng, and were
answered in soft cadences OF comfort and
benediction. At one point three or four
syllables were repeated three times, in
clear. ringing voice. like cry then, with
Qufver, the notes sank into sweet, mourn
full murmur, dying away with an echo.
Then more lights twinkled out, and the
music rose again, very pure and high. SEEM
ing to say: $50 light our souls through the
darkness!"
The full beauty and significance struck
me for the first time.
The service ended at noon. The Grand
Duke and Duchess Vladimir, seated at the
right of the altar, rose and stood waiting
while q number OF persons came to speak to
them. The Duchess, homely, pleasant
looking woman, carried her beautiful right
hand bare and the gentlemen who saluted
her bent and kissed 1t very gracefully. Then
they walked slowly down the lane made by
the sections to the door, accompanied by the
Grand Duke Alexis, the Princess Mathilde,
the Duke and Duchess of Leuchtenberg and
several other quiet, sensible-loozing people
with distinguished names. The tapers were
quenched and the congregation filed slowly
out to find light shower falling, the tears
of the dead shed for the living, as they say
when it rains on the Jour des Morts.
Getting About the French Capital.
IT very easy to find ones way about the
streets of Paris, for every street is labeled
at every corner, and famous landmarks are
thick in every arrondissement. The Arc de
Triomphe is ours, being very near the
house From each of the II avenues that
radiate from the Place de rEtoile IL looms
up grand and gray against the sky, and It is
a splendid point OF departure by omnibus,
tram or voiture for any part of the city.
We usually go to the Louvre by the Avenue
Friedland, passing in the Boulevard Hauss-
mann the quiet green court and ChapeIIe
Expiatore, where rested the bodies of Louis
XVI. and Marie Antoinette from the days of
their execution until after Waterloo. Re-
turning, we follow the long crooked Rue du
Faubourg st. Honore, where President Car
not lives-the tri-color over his carriage
way and soldiers on guard in the street-and
try to realize what the century has wrought.
1t is almost impossible. Napoleon, alive
or dead, makes havoc with history. His
tremendous reality oVershadows all the
rest, and makes ghosts of them. He seems
to have existed before Charlemagne and to
have survived GQe SeCOnQ COmmune; TO nave
blotted out the monarchy OF old, and to
have so ordered things that neither kings,
nor republics, nor his own weak nephew
may leave o permanent record upon the
page where his name 10 inscribed. His
statue still stands upon the Colonne Yen-
dome, made of his captured cannon; his
victories still give names to the grandest
streets of the city, and his name is still per-
petually spoken, and in different tone
from that of any other. mon Dieu," "Sccre
Dieu" one hears said with carelessness-
but, never carelessIy, "Napoleonr' As Pier
repont says OF his SOD, al cannot make him
dead" 1 have visited his tomb, and he
seemed more alive than ever.
Partisan violets and Partisan Dogs.
WHAT an emblem for his followers to
violet modest, unassumtng;
oh, yes, but cit will return in the spring."
like Napoleon from EIba. really think the
most jealous republican buys violets some
times in memory OF him. Chrysanthemums
are plentiful on the boulevards, being seas
enable, but violets are omnipresent.
saw an old woman to-day sitting oy her
flower stall, with red bandanna tied over |
her gray head and bunch of violets in her |
bosom. Beside her sat her dog, white |
poodle, lionized, with fierce grenadier mus |
taches, and In his IriZZIed white bang, tied
with white ribbons, more violets, which |
seemed to be beating his brains out at every |
bark.
Dors. too are an institution in Paris. Not |