Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1892-11-13

In the first place it requires one yaru
and a half of strong silesla or drilling
for waist lining. This should be cut
into the form shown by the diagram,
bnt the darts should not be cut until 1t
is fitted. To get the proper dimensions
put the material, doubled lengthwiSe,
on a table, and having the diagram be-
fore you measure the length or the
waist from the neck to the bottom.
Make dots at these places along the
doubled sewage. Measure the length
from shoulder to waist and the distance
from the straight line from shoulder to
front, keeping the same distance to
bottom; then mark the darts, which
must vary according to the figure OF the
person. II very stout, they must be
about two inches across at the waist
line. il slender, one to one and a half,
and q reference to the diagram will
show the form. The back and side
body pieces are to be measured from
top to waist line.
When the lining Is cut, allowing at
least three inches margin beyond the
seam, it should be basted and tried on,
the seams being left on the outside.
The filter should then take i'm the
seams and pin them until the whole
lining fits perfectly, snug in all parts,
but binding in none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it off and
iron it, so that the pins will make marks
and show lust where the seams should
go. Then the lining should be rebast-
ed, following the line OF the pins on the
outside of them, and the pins then
pulled out. Try the lining on again,
right side out. When the fit is perfect
the lining should be ironed again, the
seams being laid apart this time, and
after this the basting stitches should
be clipped so that the different pieces
will fall apart without being pulled.
TIE lining with an allowance for
seams OF at least one inch all around can
now be laid upon the outside material
and pinned so that it cannot slip and
be cut. Care must be taken that all
the figures run one way II the goods are
figured or the nap IL Of wool, and that
the sevage edge comes straight with
the front of the waist. The outside
should be allowed trifle larger than
the lining, as it is often OF goods that
will fray.
Basic the lining to the outside with
great care, for much of the beauty and
smoothness depends upon the bastinR.
The lining should be held upward so
that IT may be just the least bit looser
than the outside. The basting stitches
should follow the outline o. every sep
arate part OF the basque and up both
sides of each dart. More depends upon
care in basting than people usually
suppose.
When all the outlines are properly
basted with stitches not more than one
fourth Of an inch long, turn tho front
over and haste as designated by the
Plus. A very full bust will require V
shaped pait in front, as per diagram,
in the lining only, and sometimes for
quite stout ladies the trout line will need
turning in quite deep at waist line, but
the pinholes will show just how much
Is required.
The buttons 90 on the left side and
the buttonhOles on the right, and the
lap for these should be deep enough to
have the buttonholes cut in the doubled
place. Leave the under lap fat and sew
a strong piece Of tape along for the but
tons.
When this is done, haste the darts.
beginning the seam from the top, taper
ing from an preceptible point. The
darts should never be very high, the
back one being an inch higher than the
front, and this about two inches below
the under arm.
The seams must always be commenced
from the top and carefully basted before
sewing. care being taken to keep from
pickering the seams. Basic the two
darts first, then the side cores. Begin
ming at the arm size. The two middle
backs should then be basted together.
beginning at the top; then the side
pieces, which are the most difficult OF
all.
III the waist now proves 70 fit perfect
ly the seams can be sewn firmly and
neatly, but always on the outside of the
bastinR, next the edge. as the basted
seams are elastic, and sewing them
tightly makes couple Of inches differ
ence. When they are sewn lay the seams
open and trim the edges neatly with the
scissors and overland or bind with In
string, If preferred. At the waist line
two Sits should be cut In the seams
nearly TO the seam, aud after TIC edges
are bound or overcast they should be
pressed carefully with hot iron before
the hone castings are sewn on or the
ease belt and before thebottom Il fin-
fsnad Of III the goods Ara u.o<.la,. ~ -