New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-12-04

IN vogue and the increased width oil the sh''S' my
clever woman may more than save the u"erc"'e !"
her expenditure by making over her Ola eo"hs' ior
there never was season when old clothes oi every
LIND couId no used To greater advantage Ihere are
any number OF ways and means whereby a dress mat
has passed It's first freshness be made 10 look us
good new ,, -,
Tho fashion Of wearing sleeves OF material ana
even color unlike that OF the gown itseii 'nc s'@
latitude that is allowed in the way OF yokes ana vests
and the elaborate trimming that Is used all MAKE IL
easv m change any ldstyle garment into the very
latest fashion, Jackets, too, may be smart"re0 UP
wonderfully with little ingenuity. young u'uS'
who IS as clever with her needle as she IS WIKI her
brush has turned a last winters jacket INTO such
a rich and splendid looking garment that she cre''eu
quite a sensation when she appeared among "er
friends; and they Inclined 10 demonstrate
with her about her extravaganza until they were told
q, her cappy contrivances. "This Is my OLD Drown
Jacket girls she explained. "tha' wore IL" last
winter. | matched the color Win Ve'e' ana put
In these syiish-looking sleeves myself hrst ous,hs
a good pattern and taking of the OLD conar ou''oheu
n snucly across the chest and added gathered
shoulder cane OF the brown velvet. lining my cape
lot with velow silk A brown felt hat to match. with
two brown and one yellow feather completed my
winters costume which you must acknowledge is not
COSTLY"
skirts too are capable OF renewed youth. and II Is
with joy that sensible women are choppng on the
hpdTagglcd
comfortable length again. little pea'hg OF SIR or
velvet or an edCng OF fur works wonders In the way
Of renovation.
so Mrs F. is dead" said woman OF society
TO one of her friends the other day. Well she has
had good record. never saw her at any time
that she was not perfectly dressed. DO not thihK
she was ever guilty OF an unladylke action IN her
life and she was certainly the youngeSt-looking
woman Of her age ever saw. IL We cOuio all 40
WcI as that ought to be content
u am told she charitable supplemented
the other. "Oh, yes believe she was aSSeh'eo
her friend. rather vaguely. ANYBODY can b. char
table but II Is not every one that can be grande
dame down to her very finger tips like Mrs. -
Many a beautiful room. which is furnished in
otherwise excellent TASTE Is quite spoiled by the
stiff and ungraceful positions of the furniture and
on the other hand some people have the talent OF
arrangement pronounced that they cannot Eve
even few DAYS In a place without the rooms they
occupy becoming attractive and homclike AZ once
But to pull articles OF furniture ont OF their ac-
customed places, putting them at seemingly Irrelevant
angles. requires method and harmony, without
which the seemingly careless juxtaposiiion would he
distressing. 1t is just like everything slse-some
have the knack Of arrangement and others have not
but bv STUDYING good models any who is conscious
Of stiffness In the disposition OF the furniture can
discover a good deal Of the why and the wherefore
Cf anofhers success In the same direction. fui-
nirure II properly treated, can be given absolute
EXPRESSION Your chairs look colopual,7 said
a lady TO her hostess the other day. They really
seem beg youi guests to sit down and make
themselves at home" A modern writer on sanitary
building SAYS that house shcad he constructed on
the plan OF a human being-"tEe hall should he the
lungs the kitchen the stomach, the library ihe
brains and the drawing room the heart pretty
idea, which seems 10 asciibe TO our homes hvlng,
sentiont existence OF their own.
Never before has fashion given much to
fhe individual tastes OF Of refinement Just
now For never assuredlv have there been
different styles naugurated by that autccrat known
by the name OF La Mode" In one and the same
drawing salon one sees to-day costumes III
the style Of Louis XIV. of Russia. Of the French
Empire Of Wslacha. OF Creece and OF Japan. There
IRE even, sad to relate many gowns built on the
unlovely patterns I'm vogue forty and fifty years
More than is IL TO be regretted that so many
women with prctentiOns and claims to elegance should
,c content TO neekly follow in the wake OF their
dressmakers and of the latter's living mannikn or
dummies instead OF trusting 10 their own taste and
inspiration IN the matter. FOR they TO temper
the dictates OF fashion. for the time being with
Of their own originality and personality they would
certainly avoid tOilettes oft illSued to their par
cuar style OF beauty and would abstain from slavl>h
Imitation Of the Outrc fashions OF the socall"d
Partisan or worse still. London eccenricitles with
regard 10 dress. The true grande dame this winter
f. distinguished bv the extreme simplicity OF her
attire. This simplicity Is, 1t is true, exceedingly
COSTLY far more In fact than The splendor OF
raiment Of who follow blindly the dictates OF
their couturiers. For the palmer the gown the
greater the necessity OF its being absolutely perfect
In shape and cut this perfection Is Of necessity.
veSy expensive. Thus tailor made frocSs are pretty
oply II they fit faultlessly. and the aIlOrs who
,u-n ont well fitting costume remarkably few
and far between either In this country In Europe
Moreover these tailor made gowns, which as rule
are Absolutely unornamcDted save BY some rows 81
stitching or plain military braid. must DO lined with
SILK throughout in order TO b. agreeable 70 wear ana
are usually accompanied by far more elaborate ana
costly dessous than worn BY women VINO prefer
more gorgeous outer garments The latter seldom.
" ever look chic, whereas wellbuilt tailornade
gown generally Possesses that advantage.
The most elegant garment In sealsldn this season Is
undoubtedly the mantle or long cape This Is made
severely plain. hanging free from the shoulders ana
straight around. In some cases, the mantle Is gwen
the fashionable broad effect by two caprs placed one
above the Other and covering the shoulders. This cX
ACCENTED appearance IS seen more often In capes OF
Persian lamb than in scashIn. and especially In Per
sian lamb Of that fine waved variety which looks Ike
MORE silk. There some NANTES forty inches IN
length, but this is extreme Tile most oesraD'"
length covers the hips but does not reach 10 The Knees
These wraps liked because they can be easily
put on and on. OF the new wraps OF close FUR
have YOKE outlined by leaied or sincd rnfe OF the
fur which gives again the much desired wid'h ABOUT
the shoulders There is "ca'hct about Hese
nantes on a tail and wilovy figure, but let the
short Of generous cmbonpoint avoid them. lest
She should resemble AN Inflated umbrella Inc SNORT
shoulder capcs seem TO have almost disappeared All
the canes now reach below the waist line and NAV be
properly called manes \ cape Of fine s"al'ldn VIII
cost from 800 to $4OO according TO lis length ana
the quality Of the fur used. cape OF Russian or
IIudson's Bay fur will cost about 5000 In me
quality Of skin. There is immense room Tor choice
In sable skins. which range In price from S"o up 10
1900. At the last price. ihe finest and the dar"eS'
auaIty of sable may be purchased and cape Of this
nuaIitx will cost seycral thnnsand dollars.