The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1892-09-08
Good Bye to Pernambuco.

>pcclal correspondence OF The journal.
pGKNAMBuco, Brazil, July Both
though the oldtime glory of ''Olinda,
NE Beautiful'' as fashionable residence
.aburb departed with the gay Count
Nmitz. the tourist in Brazil should not
rail- 10 pay it visit You can go out in a
image. if you wish-for, unlike Bahia
with its steep streets and sedan chairs
aeIe are plenty of public vehicles to be
red in Pernambuco; but by the far bet
.t way, in accordance with the good old
# doing as the Romans do when in
me. is to 90 by rail. TIE exceedingly
low guage road was built and equipped
english contractors, as he who runs
.iy read on its queer little locomotives
sutlare boxes of cars. that look like a
; 10Y train rather than one designed
lttual use. The unballasted road is a
.,ssion OF sharp grades and sudden
..ses. over which YOU are yanked and
Hpcd in the springless coaches, amid
. dust, tlcas and perspiriny fellow
nHerS; yet the short trip pays so
, hi a scenic point of view that one is
med TO make it again and again
5ueen the city proper and the surbul-
.a linda, a long narrow sand-ban in
vegcs. with the Beberibe river on one
.ie The same that cuts Pernambuco in
.a4I1. and the harbor on the other. On
r ocean side, hardly mile from the
Hay, stretches the famous recife, OF
..ti rcef-a natural parapet which at the
Lest tide is marked only by q line
At low tide, however, it looks like Il
i,>iye wall OF masonry, to which one
3y 30 ont in d row-boat OF iangada and
,iov the novelty of a promenade in the
midst of the sea, la Peter The nearly
vel ton is about ten feet across, the eX-
raa rocks dark brown i'll color and
XIV coated with shells of many species.
All ii have nerve enough and are not i'll
led to -'lightness in the upper story,
NAV walk away out to the old round
7,4ed tort at it's northern extremity,
,.ttt. Ia natural break in the reef admits
.,sls to- the harbor The queer, brick
ned fortress, which bristles all over
viii runs like an excited hedge hog, was
l. In the early days of the Dutch occu
AMI Of Pernambuco. Its foundations
Ks. Of hewn stone imported from Ell-
me. are placed lengthwise to the sea and
ind together by heavy bands of iron.
Having passed the fort, the car tracks
il though a low, swampy level, filled
tense thickets OF bamboo and wild
g.tua. bordered by groves of cocoa palm
a mango trees, and oecupied-as to
mlus-only by negroes and very poor
4l-lu.teds. Their dilapidated huts. OF
Mastered bamboo, are Il sight tit for
Worlds Fair; and having inspected
atelior of one you have seen them
There is floor of natural earth,
-.u. Of snake barbering thatch, filthy
Doish piled in every corner, and nothing
a,eycr in the line Of furniture beyontta
..A topking- pots a dried COW skin spread
ao4 the ground in lieu Of Il table. and
lHmmoe1s. which serve for beds and
Hs But the walls are profusely
uuod with highly -colored prints Of Nil-
>apd Saints, attiled in all tile hues Of
rainbow, surrounded by rude
.s,, and other emblems of religion;
Invariably the place is sWarming with
.-| habes. scrawny cats, long legged
sand the hideous. no. haired dogs OF the
liy which look decidedly more like
,.-laWn links of sausage OF animated
-.,ilS of stove-pipe-of dull red color,
lew blistles standing erect ut either
than amy canine species.
Onda occupies several low, green
.rouped close together and clothed
UNuliant vegetation, sloping gently
FLAG Atlantic ON one hand and to limit
, plains Oh the other. Every hill is
r.el by a church OF convcnt-there
at least a dozen churches and half
II number of converts within "a stones
uW almost of one another-all en-
Nered. like the comfortable villas that
letth away for miles toward the interior,
MI very riot OF fruitage, fragrance
LII bloom. The houses are pretty much
large, square, two storied, the out
walls washed white as snow, rooted
lark red tiles and broken out all
With a perfect rash OF gelonzias or
Iced balconies same old Dutch
u architecture which used to be so
a.Huu III Rio de Janeiro at the time of
RI, arrival. but NOW seldom seen at the
VHUlis, because that wary monarch,
N1l- how the gelonzias might afford
piaces of conc6alment for the assas-
Wis Nho threatened his royal person, or
s.eI Them pulled down. Some of the
Ne> and cupolas of Olindas churches
+ e'nNentual institutions are covered
Dutch tiles, others with imported
ND mo whiter than the succeed walls,
a lew are quantity decorated with bits
clllhenwarc of many colors, laid on in
-'-nIaily irregular, clazyquilt sort of
9>di- There is an old chapel of Italian
~ls which has its Whole facade and