The Indianapolis journal., 1892-05-08

and runs to the limits of the town. whence
it leaps down the mountain side in numer-
ous foaming cascades. on its way TO Join
the broad Parabyba. Each city stream has
an artificial channel. from ten to fifteen
feet deep. and is crossed by numerous little
bridges. painted scarlet and black. Their
gently sloplng banks. covered with the
greenest grass. are followed on both sides
by broad. mscadamiZed roads and shaded
by fine old willow trees. interspersed with
the feathery, sweet et-scented cedar (cedralla
odorataf. which BraZllians never cut, for
they believe 1t supplied the wood for the
True Cross" as in England. centuries ago.
the trembling aspen enjoyed that distinc-
tion.
CHARACTERISTIC OF THE TOWN.
1t IS not possible to obtain a view OF the
whole town from any one point. small as it
is numerically, because so scattered among
the hills and valleys. The yellowish brown
palace of the Emperor. in its twelye-acre
setting of highly -ornamented "grounds is
the central point from which all things
radiate. Business is confined to one short
street. Some of the avenues are compare
lively level. others wander up and down
in the most erratlc fashion. There are many
spacious and tasteful residences-detached
villas. kiosks. chalets. cottages. most of
them with scarlet-painted roofs. and gar
dens that are indescribably gorgeous; and
roads bOrdered by country homes and cof-
fee plantations stretch away between hills
that are yet covered with virgin forests
There are half a dozen toIerable hotels. in
which the average rate OF living Is
s225 per diem. Most of them are
kept by Swiss or Germans. and
some are perfect copies of the chalets
eral Lutheran. Roman Catholic and other
churches; and every year the government
makes special appropriation for sustain
ing its schools. This was begun when the
place was German colony. and the late
Dom Pedro took deep interest in it, since
it was founded by his father and named
after himself. And, indeed, it is no small
matter to the deniZens of reeking, fever
haunted Rio to have within five hours'
easy Journey 80 delightful q refuge. where,
as our Yankee friend observed. 'one may
enjoy the luxury of sitting In dry skim"
However Yellow Jack may rage below. it
has never reached Petr0polis. though, as
Is we'll known. it often climbs much
partly due to the ferrugin0us springs
that abound In the locality and
suppl-what Brazilians particularly need
iron for the blood and O remeuy for gas
trio arrangements. The latitude produces
not only the palm tree of the tropics. but
the pine of the north. the aloe and the
cedar the orange and the apple. Moro rain
falls here than in Rio, sometimes lasting
for days together, making roaring torrents
of the little rivers, and then we under
stand why their channels were dug so
deep. The moisture freshens the flowers
that clings to the cottage walls and makes
the air so cool that wood fires are comfort
able mornings and evenings-though. after
the Spanish American fashion, no homes
except those of resident foreigners, are
provided with any sort OF heating
apparatus. The Viscount of Maua. builder
of the railway, has beautiful villa at the
meeting OF two mountain brooks; and
other of the best houses are owned by MEN,
bers of the diplomatic corps and wealthy
foreigners. The town is barely nifty years
old, and Braziiians are not enterprising In
hunting new localities; therefore, within
five minutes walk from your hotel In al
most any direction, you may plunge into q
primeval solitude, whose Columbus you
seem to be. where nature is at her wildesr
and no s0und is heard. but the drowsy
hum of insects, the whirr of brilliant
wings. and may be the rustic of serpent
gliding through the thickets. Within
conical hills. each about live hundred feet
high, covered from base to apex with
verdant forests. in which the pale yellow "
of the banana is mingled with the dark
green of wild bamboo. Far as the eye can
see other hillsides show neat cottages and
patches of cultivation. Most of these be-
long to descendants of the original colo
nists, and bear familiar German names.
brought from fatherland by those old first
families" together with their national Gus
of them have become rich coffee planters,
and great deal of business passes through
their hands. To them the valleys are yet
thals. the rills bachs. the hills geDirge.
and their yellow-haired. rosy checked lads
and lasses are gOod 10 look at beside the
average bilious-skinned Brazilian.
THE TWIN CITY.
Theresopolis. the twin city. which, long
before PetropolIs became summer cap
ital," was the resort of the first Emperor,
dlplomates distinguished strangers and
wealthy Brazllians. occupies an elevated
valley. forty five miles northeast from Rio.
Its locality is marked from afar by those
sharp peaks. rising like the pipes of an or
gan, which are among the first and great
est objects of interest to a stranger in these
parts; and in it's neighborhood Is found the
best elm ate in all Brazil. as well as the
grnndest mountain scenery and the most
interesting and varied vegetation. But
the journey thereto involves considerable
fatigue. and therefore is neglected in favor
of the easier and cheaper route to PetrOp-
oils. A boat leaves Rio three times q week
Tuesdays. Thursdays and Satnrdays-at3
P. NJ. which calls at PaQuita on the way. and
lands passengers at the little village OF
Piedade, near tie upper end Of the bay.
about 6 o'clock. Here you will find dill
gencia In waiting to convey travellers
across the country to the foot of the Sierra
dos Orgaos; and perhaps an hour before
midnight you will be dumped ont at the
door of the wretchcd inn where the night
must be passed. The journey up the Sierra
is usually made on mule back. in the early
morning. and a more glorious and exhilar-
ating ride can hardly be imagined. Moses
on Mount Sinai may have seen liner sight.
but doubt it. Near the summit the trail
passes close under the Dedo do Deus
("Finger of God" whose sharp, inaccessi-
BILE peak 10 so conspicuous q landmark for
hundreds of miles around. and beside
the Garrafno, whose extreme point is
capped by an enormous bowlder.
which looks as if touch might dislodge it
yet how many centuries has 1t held its
place. The village of Theresopolis lknown
as VarZea before it's name was changed In
honor of the Empressl, lies In O dip be-
tween the mountains, at an elevation OF
about three thousand feet. and commands
a magnificent view of all the peaks. At
the Alto" where the read passes through
q gap INTO the valley of Rio PaQueQuer. the
elevation is nearly four thousand feet, and
the town Is three miles beyond. 1t
Is only q struggling settlement, and pos
sesses no good hotel; but one can afford to
live cn.air for a whlle-such air as this
Tor sake of the charming walks and rides
and incompatible views.
FANNIE B. WARD.