Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1892-12-09

a half of strong siesia or drilling for waist
lining. This should be cut into the form
shown by the diagram, but the darts should
not be cut until it is fitted. To get the
proper dimensions put the material, doubled
lengthwse, OH Il table, and having the dia-
gram before you measure the length of the
waist from the neck to the bottom Make
dots at these places along the doubled sell
wage. Measure the length from shoulder
to waist and the distance from the straight
line from shoulder to front. keeping the
same distance to bottom; then mark the
darts, which must vary according to the
figure of the person. If very stout they
must be about two inches across at the
waist line; if slender one to one and half,
and a reference to the diagram will show
the FORM The back and side body pieces
are to be measured from top to waist line
When the lining is cut, allowing at least
three inches margin beyond the seam, it
should be basted and tried on, the seams
being left OH the outside The filter should
then take in" the seams and pin them
until the whole lining fits perfectly, snug
in all parts. but binding in none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it off and
iron it, so that the pins will make marks
and show just where the seams should go.
Then the lining should be rebasted, fol-
I lowing the line of the pins on the outside
Of them, and the pins then pulled out.
Try the lining on again, right side out.
When the fit is perfect the lining should
be !roned again, The seams being laid apart
this time, aud after this the basting stitches
should be clipped so that the al. erent
pieces will fall apart without being Jailed.
The lining, with an allowance for seams
of at least one inch all around, can now be
laid upon the outside material and pinned
SO that it cannot slip and be cut. Care
must be taken that all the figures run one
way II the goods are figured or the nap if
Of wool. and that the selvage edge comes
straight with the front of the waist. The
outside should be allowed trifle larger
than the lining. rs it is often of goods that
will fray.
Basic the lining to the outside with great
care, for much of the beauty and smooth
ness depends upon the basting. The lining
should he held upward so that it may be
just the least bit looser than the outside.
The basting stitches should follow the out
line Of every separate part of the basque
and up both sides of each dart. More de
ponds upon care in basting than people
usually suppose.
| When all the outlines are properly basted
with stitches not more than one fourth of
an inch long, turn the front over and haste
as designated by the pins. A very full
bust will require V shaped plat in front,
as per diagram, in the lining only, and
sometimes for quite stout ladies the front
line will need turning in quite deep at
neck and waist line, but the pnholes will
show just how much is required.
The buttons 90 Oh the left side and the
buttonhoes, ON the right, and the lap for
these should be deep enough to have the
buttonholes cut in the doubled place.
Leave the under lap fiat and sew a strong
piece of tape along for the buttons.
When this is done, haste the darts, be-
ginning the seam from the top, taperng
from an imperceptible point The darts
should never be very high, the back one
being an inch higher than the front, and
this about two inches below the under arm.
The seams must always he commenced
from the top and carefully basted before
sewing, care being taken to keep from
puckering the seams. Basic the two darts
first, then the side cores, beginning at the
arm size. The two middle backs should
be then basted together beginning at the
top; then the side pieces. which are tine
most difficult of all
IL the waist now proves to fit perfectly
the seams can be sewn firmly and neatly,
but always ON the outside of the basting,
next the edge, rs the basted seams are
elastic. and sewing them tightly makes
couple of inches difference. When they are
sewn lay the seams open and trim the edges
neatly with the scissors and overland or
bind with lustring, if preferred. At the
waist line two Sits should be cut in the
seams nearly to the seam, and after the
edges are bound or overcast they should he
pressed carefully with hot iron before the
bone castings are sewn on or the ease belt,
and before the bottom is finished off. II
the goods are wooden, they should he slight
ly moistencd If of silk, the iron should not
be too hot nor the silk moistened The
press board should have one thickness OF
hannel and ole of muslin.
OLIVE HARPER