The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-12-31
HATS AND THEIR HISTORY
HOW a SAINT UNKNOWINaLY
MANUFa CFURED FELT

try of Today.
From tAe PhaddeLphla Ledger.
The hat is simply variation OF, and no
doubt an improvement upon, the ancient
coverings for the head, no matter what
their shape or material Comment has
been made because soms noted paintings of
scriptural and oriental life do not depicture
the head dresses Of the males. This is most
noticeable in paintings Of ancient Syrian
Life, for no doubt the Syrians wore then, as
now, a turban, thick. light and colorless,
topretect them from the burning sun.
The practice of wearing hats began in the
western part Of Europe about the year 1400.
An ingenious Swiss was the inventor, and
he took it to Paris, which, even at that
time,: was fashionable center. Father
Daniel says that when the King Of France
entered Rouen. in 1449. he had on a hat
lined with red velvet, surmounted by
plume or tuft OF feathers"
In old times there was not only fashion
In the kind of a hat, but also in the manner
of wearing it. Whet was known as the Ra-
miles cock Of the hat came into vogue after
the battle Of that name. There was also a
mercantile cock, as we'll as military cock.
The beaux wore their hats diagonally over
the left or right eye, while the "Gewkies"
wore theirs with the corners pointing into
the air. John Sly. London haberdssher,
announced in his day, my hats for the
men of the faculties of law and physics do
but Just turn up TO give u little life to their
saGacity. My military hats glare full in the
face. have also prepared a familiar easy cock
for ali good companions between the above
mentioned extremes" That awk ward hat,
the German Kevenhuller, followed the ac-
cession Of George III, while the tiny Niver-
nois was introduced few years later Gold
binding On the hat, during the same period
indicated a gentleman OF the turf. The gold
laced cooked hat was largely used in 1878,
not only on account OF its military look, but
because IL probably protected the Wearer
from seizure by the press gangs, which
we're at that time more than usually active.
The fat, folding, crescent shaped beaver
known as the cooked hat, was still TO be seen
as late as 1878 .....
Centuries ago the color of hat or cap
had its significance. Cardinals first began
70 wear red hats III 1858. In Italy, for ages
the members OF the Hebrew race were
known by the yellow caps which they wore
It being mandatory for them to wear them.
There was law in force in France for a
century or more, that compelled bankrupts
TO wear green caps. This was done TO pre-
vent tradesmen from being imposed upon
by such as were unable or unwilling to pay.
Successive edicts enlarged the privileges of
banErupts, but they forfeited them If they
appeared in public without the green CAPS.
II those who cannot or will not pay their
debts were compelled to wear such caps at
the present day the streets Of most OF our
cities would have rather q verdant
appearance.
Hats were subjected to a good deal OF
arbitrary legislation in England. Henry
VII. had on act passed which fixed "the
maximum price of hat at 90 pence and a
cap at five times that sum-" During the
reign Of Elizabeth cap-rnsking was PRO.
tected" by astatute. in which It was pro-
vided that on Sundays ana holidays all
the males were to wear on their heads caps
of wool, knit, thicked and dressed in Eng
land, made only by cap-makers residing
within the realm" The clergy were dis
posed to follow the fashions of the day, but
10 the middle ages they were ordered not TO
wear any hat but the cornet-the square
cap of the doctors OF divinity. A similar
four cornered hat is worn by the university
men in England, and when there is gold
tassel on the center it indicates that the
wearer belongs TO the nobility. Tbs bishop
Of Dol. in the twelfth century, permitted
only the cauons to wear square hats, and
enjotned that when any other pc. sons
wearing them entered the churches divine
services should Immediately cease.
DR.. Doren tells us that the Natal "fash-
tonables" wear hats foot in hight, M de of
the fat of oxen. They first gradually anoiut
the head with pure grease, which, mixing
with the hair, fastens the hat on during the
lifetime of the wearer. The Myantees make
q hat of a board 10 inches by 6. They place
it on their heads, draw the hair over it and
seal IL with wax, They cannot lie down
without keeping their neoks straight, and
when they comb their hair, which they do
once or twice year, they have to spend
considerable time in melting the wax before
they can get their hats off.
To remove the hat in the presence OF a
sovereign Is an old mark of respect. Most
OF us ere familiar with the story CT the iu-
tervIew between Fox, the Quaker. AID
Char les II. The latter, upon ob.erving that
the former kept his hat on, promptly re-
moved his own. "Put on that hat, friend
Charles" said Fox. Mot SO, friend
George" was the neat retort OF the king.
1t is usual for only one man to wear his
hat here"
The head Of the De Courcys, Earls of
kinsale, is the only E glish noblemen per-
mitted to wear his hat in the presence Of his
sovereign. Out of sincere Difference the
de Courcys wore their hats for but mo-
ment, in assertion Of their privilege, and
then promptly dotted them One OF the
earls at reception giTen by George III
kept bis hat on Tor a considerable time. At
1doG In6 hlHS DeCau6 V6AeQ AuQ 1umlliated
him by saying: +" The gentlemen has right
to be covered before me, but even King
John could give him no right to be covered
before lSdiesn
William III. illustrated his royal obsti-
macy BY refusing to remove his ponderous
beaver when at church, much TO the indig-
nation of the worsbipers. Their indigna-
ton did not worry him any. The Dutch
wore their hats during divine service. and
he had not ceased to be Hollaudsr simply
for having become King of England. The
last sovereign Of the Tudor race, together
with his oourtiers, wore very high hats,
which became the steeple hat of the Puri-
taus IN the middle Of the seventeenth CEN
fury. The old wood cuts of the tri al of
Charles ]. represent the members of perlia-
ment in broad -hrimmed steeple hats.
Felt is a union OF animal hair with wool
IN such manner as to produce q firm,
compact substance. Its discovery was of
90 much Importance that it seemed neces-
sary TO attribute it TO divine agency, and
hence we have tradition OF sanity origin.
When ST. Clement was fleeing from his
prosecutors his feet became blistered, and.
IN order to abate the pain, he placed wool
between ais sandals and the soles of his feet.
On continuing his journey, the wool, by
tue perspiratiop, motion aud pressure OF his
feet, became auniformly compact substance,
which Was afkarWard 6ot,r,Yoirafad felt The