Morning journal and courier., 1892-04-23


 went the shutter, and had her.
 A shout of merriment from my compan- ions greeted the success of my strategem, and the expression of dismay on Jovita's face gave way to rippling little smile, as if to say that now it was done, it was no great harm, after all.
 wAKEMAN,s WANDERINGs.
 In Galicia-Cracow, PoIand's An.
 cient Royal Capital-Huge outer
 Forts and Massive Minaretted Walls
 -PoIIsh Jews-Knout From Rus-
 sia, Their Sunerings and Indigni-
 CRAcow, Gslicia, March 30.
 To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
 If one could first approach Cracow from the north, filled with the sentimental TO- nance of Polish heroic memories, and have in mind the Poland and Cracow of that time when Cracow was the residence of Polish sovereigns, view of the ancient city would be one of great impressiveness. | At any distance, from this direction, the structural seeming is one of unimpaired splendor. Its many church spires, quaint and huge-peaked roofs, spacious palaces l profusion around the Wavel Rock, on which stands the castle of Zamek, the for mer royal castle of Poland. At its base the dragon of the cave, which noisome hole may still be seen, was killed by Krak, the Cadmus of Poland. At the oity's south | ern side can be seen the gleaming waters of the Blue Vistula, which almost encir- cles the olden town. The splendid Vistu- la vale stretches fair and far beyond. And the southern horizon is a serrated edge of misty blue where, over against sunny Hun gary, rise the peaks of wild Tstra and the grand Carpathian range.
 But splendid as is this first seeming, the ancient city of kings, cathedrals and uni versailles is now simply gorgeous shell of stone, swarming with population the most miserable and seemingly hopeless hu man eyes ever beheld. The city once held from eighty to one hundred thousand souls and was the commercial as well as royal capital of Poland. Its desertion and de- gradation reached an apparent lowest ebb quarter of 8 century since. Subsequent ly Austrian reforms, and the general i'm provement of the condition of the Cali clan Polish peasantry, and especially the stimulating effect of excellent develop ment in agricultural and the mineral and petroleum fields of Galicia, reawakened some of it's old time commercial activity. , But this fell away again as Lemberg gradually became the commercial capital of Galicia. Then came another influx of population, but of so dolorous sort that Cracow's present increased housing of hu- mans is certainly the most painfully and pathetically abhorrent in all Europe. The city is not more than ten English miles from the Russian frontier. During all the unspeakably cruel prosecutions of Rus sian Polish Jews which have indignantly thrilled the civilized world during the past few years, Cracow has received and succored greater number of these help less refugees than any other single Flu | ropean city.
 So near is the city to the Russian iron l tier that every week, often nearly every day, witnesses processions of these out casts given speed across the border by the impetus of threatened knout and lash, and the even more goading fear of actual murder. In 1864 I saw with bursting and mutinous heart the God-forsaken folk of my own race as they were driv- en from Atlanta, while their homes were burned behind them. But revolting as was that brutal scene of so-called "mili- tary necessity" it could not be compared with what is of such common occurrence here that it attracts no further comment or attention.
 Two great objects of interest will be found before you enter the city. To the north is one of the most gigantic embat- tied fortresses in Europe. Austria has always claimed that this was for use as a frontier fortress in the event of Rus sian hostilities. As nearly one thousand | spies in citizens clothing are said to be | still in use in Cracow and the immedi- | ate vicinity, the Polish peasantry prefer to believe it was built and is kept manned for the purposes of awe and effectual subjugation.
 In any event it forms a threatening answer to a still greater monument to national feeling which may be found but three miles distant upon the eminence of Brownislawa. This is the colossal Kos ciusko Mound.
 Over in Irelend the humble peasantry, loyal in their memories for even legen- dsry hero or saint, when passing the spot where the body fell or was inferred, cast pebbles upon the grave and murmur prayers for the repose of the soul. similar Polish national adoration of the brave and the good has resulted in this most curious memorial mound in Chris tendon. It Is one hundred and fifty feet high and is principally formed of earth, brought in sacks and barrow loads with infinite toll from all the battle-felds fa- nous in Polish history. Grim and trag- ic is the satire upon this sacred heart built memorial, on the part of relentless power. When it was nicely completed the Austrians found it an excellent pedestal for one of the huge detached forts with | which they proceeded to surround Cracow 1 in five miles circle.
 The outer walls of the city itself are very interesting and massive. They will re- | mind you of the tremendous walls of old Neuremberg, down in Bavaria. They are quite as high and thick, but are varied at intervals with surmounting towers, both square and round, of immense thickness and great height, with most picturesque minsretted roofs. The gsteways are quite | as remarkable ss those at Malta, and are given great additional quaint charm by their curious old shrines. These are very ancient; indeed SO old that the carving of the foriture and images are almost wholly dsfaced. From this fact alone they seem to attract the greatest number of worship CTS; and on many occasions I have been scarcely able to pass beneath these huge arches owing to the crowds packed like panicky sheep upon their knees against the | shrines.
 Round about and within the old city at this season of the year, just as the foliage is beginning to show along the banks of the Vistula and among the gigantic trees of the ancient promenades, a casual glance gives the impression of serenity and even brightness. One feels as though quiet and satisfied content must reign within and without. But once inside the massive gate ways, the hesrt sickens at what the eyes continually behold.