The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-05
THE MAN OF FASHION.
CAMPAIGN HEADGEAR THAT WILL
SHOW POLITICAL PREFERENCE.

shape OF straw CruSn hab-aOW q
Halter Solved tho Problem OF What
is Popular in New York-Out of
10000 Persons Noted, 5000 Wore
Derbys-A New Fad Is to Have Your
Soft Summer Hat Match Your Suit.
How to Polish Your silk Hat.
(Copvrioht9
New YORK, June 4.-There is character
in the manner of wearing hat. authorities
to the contrary notwithstanding. l was
convinced Of it while on Fifth avenue the
other day. noting here and there a man OF
fashion, again q specimen of the genius,
"open-hearted but badly clothed and
still again one of the better dressed sports.
Between the low-worn hat coming almost
to the bridge of the nose and the high
setting, good-natured style where great
shock OF hair or half bald pate fronts the
sweat-band, there lies great diversity of
character. The man of fashion has but
one way in which to wear a hat. 1t reaches
the top of the forehead and sets just bit
to the side.
Now, then. what will you wear this sum-
merl .. tHsar
For the man Of fashion there are many
styles. In fact they have come from Eng
land and France in such numbers that they
threaten to overthrow the dictum of at
least one long established and well-known
American house, whose spring announce
ments have always been looked forward to
by men of fashion as something akin to a
royal pronunciamento. For the summer
in light stiff hats everything will therefore
tie IN style and blind man could hardly
err. Taper crowns, full crowns, high
/ lAk rrOxH rru wi Ia va
brims, fiat set roll and pitch, dish brim,
D'Orsay, round, Hub, Stanley or circuit
curl are all IN style and In any color. In
soft felt alone there is an exception. Tho
tourist" cap seems to have the call.
A novelty from Paris is likely TO have
quite a run here this summer. l am told. 1t
| is nothing more or less than a "orush stra W
hat" after the idea of the Gibus opera hat.
| Tip and brim are Of the same material. but
the band, like that Of the "chapeau claque,"
| is of silk, 80 az to give 1t flexibility. The
! silk used Ia this case, however, may be in
any bright color, and the general idea is
| to furnish a straw hat which may be packed
! in an ordinary hat bag by a tennis playing
| or yachting young man for transportation
into tine country. Straw hats hitherto have
! proved lamentable failures, often suffering
| destruction in the course of an ordinary
! days jaunt.
But the summer of 1892 is proving a
great cloth cap year. and the textile fabric
men who have been selling remnants of
suitings to hetters now see matched de-
signs Of hats adjoining the fashionable tile
establishments.
Another new thing in derby shape is
what is called a mixed fur felt" The
colors are the light ashy gray, prevalent in
suitings, and the surface, though exceed
ingly fine, appears rough, in imitation Of
the suitings they are designed to accompany.
l was told in my. meanderings of an odd
investigation that was made at five leading
street corners of New York by a promi uent
wholesale hat house 1t was a question
with them whether to throw a great mass
| OF light derbys on the summer market
and this is how they solved the question:
Ten thousand persons passed the given
points in something less than an hour
Nine thousand derbys were noted. OF
these S.748 were round crowned
and only 252 wereiy fat crowned
The tavorite color was black. aud
of the 5000 derbys more than IS per
cent. or S,74S were of that somber hue. OF
the remainder $50 were brown in color and
80 we're light drab of various shades. OF
the 10000 under consideration the 1000 not
derbys were classified as follows; Silk, 495
narrow -brimmed soft felt, $40; caps, ITO:
broad brimmed soft felt hats, S.
In the summer the high hats worn will
largely increase--that is, the light-oolored
high hats-but not to an extent to affect
| the fact that the derby is the prevailing
style-the utility hat-in favor with all
classes. l am inclined to think that the
popular preference for the deby is not owing
alone to the claim of being comfortable,
neat and comparatively low-priced, but
because 10 isnot decidedly unbecoming to
any wearer. 1t fairly adapts Its style to
every variety of form, face and
| figure, and appears equally jaunty on
the Bowery boy as it does on the
Fifth avenve swell. 1t is, indeed, ademo-
cratic hat, and will probably maintain its
sway with little change during this and
! perhaps the next century.
While among the hatters this week was
shown novel electrical invention by which
! every owner OF q silk bat can become his
own polisher. 1t is an electrical hst-polish-
ing and cleaning machine which
| does away with ironing, and shortens
the process of renovating an old
hat from minutes to seconds OF hours to
minutes, as the case may be. The patent is
on an inside clutch, which folds a silk or a
derby hat Of any size without damaging
the lining or leather in the least,
| while revolving at the rate of 2000 revolu-
tions minute. The polishing is done with
strips of plush, silk or suede leather,
according to the condition of the hat when
the operation begins. Ironing is rendered
|
the friction against the rapidly-moving sur
face of the hat answers every purpose that
the heated iron is used to accomplish.
One of the prettiest soft felt styles in the
market to-day is the Arion in black, wood
brown. lumber and pearl. The Yeddo is a
pretty braided straw hat, with low crown
| and narrow brim.
| But a word as to the campaign hat which
will be out as soon as the national conven-
tions are over with. They have decided
that Cleveland and Harrison will be the
nominees and the Tippecanoe hat is being
manufactured by the ton. The fates deal
unkindly with some hatters. and this may
develop into another instance OF "miscalcu-
| lation" on both sides.
Other firms have, however, been wiser
and have prepared two styles of campaign
summer novelties in the shape Of the India
| helmets. This Is TO be an innovation, and
there are those who predict that the high
hat is doomed as far as campaign purposes
are concerned.
ALBERT EDWARD TYRRELL.
MARK TWAIN'S BROTHER,