Grand Rapids herald. [volume] (Grand Rapids, Mich.) 1892-1959, 1892-09-11
DOOR OF A VIOLET
How the Fragrance Of the
Flower Is
CONVERTED INTO pERFUAERY
Fasa.0sa5is Gowns Cor Autumn Wear
IA tae Figure VsTy Closely Pretty
SsPtsmosE Weddings.

Few of the many women who use
perfumes have the slightest conception
OF tns process which me liquid passes
through before i IS n 10 - sprayed
upon handkerchief Or dainty lace.
Most Ok the perfumes come from
France. And many from the immediate
vicinity OF Grssse. Each morning
huge baskets or Parma violets, fresn
with matuEaaI dew. making me ar
EedOient with Their perfume, are
brought INTO large room OF tue fac
tory, where the pretty blossoms are
distributed py The a-mful upon large
pan covered win creased cloth. The
noweFs stick - THIS cloth. and when all
are 50 disposed the pans are placed
IL tiers, Que above the other, aud q
huge lgon roller : passed over ths top.
ae Juice VI tne vlolets, mingled VIA
the grease OF the cloth, then drips
tnguuEn peffOgauons IN the pan into
large vat below, tr0m which u IS taken
And, after few days boiling, il - re-
cuced IN delicious pOmats. Ia tais
state 10 5 used fer curling the NOUS
tache Of the dude, and = also favor
lie cosmetic and up paste for the far
sex. The extract % vlolets is made by
adding al equal amount Il alcohol.
and after r~tImag process 10 : ready
Tor tAe market. Roses, orange bios
sous. mignonette. heIOtrOpe, aud
other flowers are also converted INTO
perfumes u a Ike manner.
The fashionable gown OF today Fl IS
the tiguFr. Il Is not only tight at the
vast bot q IS tgnt over the hips aud
ms closely AL the way down 10 the
pedal extremities. In nearly al the
new oodlces the yoke 3 al important
and decisive feature. In striped fab
rlcs the stripes run around the yoke.
aud lu PLAIN materials handsome en-
bTCdered Insertions follow the lower
outline OF the yoke, which = generally
curved sllgauy. All yOkes are very
deep and produce the effect of an ex-
tremely lOw gown worn over = guImpe.
The excess OF tnls fashion Is the bodice
that makes no ureteDse at al Of gong
over the shoulders. Dus passes under
the arms and curves signify or runs
up INTO a point over the bust. A high
guimpe and sleeves OF lace - worn
French gowns aim 20 display the'igure
primarily. All else Is Of secondary
Importance. In adding trimming care
u taken not 10 conceal the surface by
false lines and irregular trimmings.
The true Partisan dress follows the
form easily, adding nothing to conceal
Us beauty, an effort being made 10 de-
velOp the vO!uptuous. This is seen in
the lines OF the trimming. which are
al horizontal As against the vertical 50
long popular.
Smoking. an Old form OF needle
work, - being extensively used on
many garments. No stitch was ever at
once more simple, useful and orna-
mental. 10 Is used for the yoke and 10
hold tue fulness of skirts. dust cloaks.
flannel dressing sacks. wrappers and
similar garments. Infants clothing 10
much betrimmed with IL, and the new
est silk hand bags are deliberately
shocked. II u done by folding the
cloth into parallel plaits laid fatty
against each other as for accordion
plating. the edges Of the plating
standing upward. Three times the
width Is allowed for the fullness. The
depth of tile plaits IS from a third TO
nalf an inch II tor silk, and they must
"a OF the same SIZE and perfectly even.
Fssten them together by temporary
threads run across the under side. The
work - then ready for the stitch, which
- an overcast With coarse floss, each
sti:ch covering two plsits and lying on
tie surface. When properly done the
whole - elastic, permitting the gar
uIent to stretch 20 the figure. There
are several varieties OF shocking
stitch. the most popular OF which are
tne stem and feather stitches aud the
honsycOmb The first takes an over
stitch INTO each plslt IN succession as
stated. The feather stitch IL familiar
70 ali needlewomen. HOneycomblng
- done by fastening two plsits to-
gether in an ovsrsttch, then slipping
tue needle down the plat underneath
q take mp the next.
The tailor made gown constructed Of
LADIES CLOTH. army cloth. melton and
similar fabrics has gone. never 70 re-
turn 70 the wardrobe Of the fsshion-
abe woman. The tailor made gown as
mentioned has been done % death and
both modistss and their customers are
weary or L. There u stsll the same de-
mand for a plain, neat and comfortable
street gown. one which vail stand the
rhsBgss Of a. American autumn anG
sull retain something Of Us freshness
$40 beauty. Tbs demand has been
met ~ the nee of material new for
ths purpose. Il corduroy. and black
VII bs ere fsshiouahle color. II a a
material that fits well and Il may -
ruade up very simply or trimmings Of
for or brad may "a Al led with good
Eject To - extremely becOm nj TO
gnt figures Among the shorter
I ved Innovations may b mentioned
Use Write tnglsn serge coat w.n bell
SKIRT u fhe same material and of white