The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1892-03-06
THE NEW DRESS SKIRTS.

Made the Bell Model, Close on the HIPS,
and with Sweeping Trains-Other Matters.
New York sun.
Out of the confusion of new modes, and
new variations of old modes which herald
the decadence of one and the dawn of an
other season. some principles have crystal
nzed into definiteness. and from them may
DO deduced the first statement of the great
dress equation. Dress skirts will be made
on the "belP' model. flaring even more
sharply at the knee than those now worn,
and sweeping out gracefully at the foot
Innings should be cut the same way
of the cloth. and exactly like the out
side in every way, and fitted in with
darts at the top. which are caught { o
the darts of the outer skirt. The lining,
too. should be finished as neatly as the out
side. Indeed. the woman who has her
homespun or tweed gown made at a hrst-
class place could. in case of emergency,
turn the skirt and be arrayed in the dainti
est kind of a silken frock. The fancy now
10 to have q contrast in the Innings rather
than to have them or the same shade as the
skirt dark-b blue or black gown is smart
ened with o cardinal lining. and an ecru
wool with green trimming shows also the
futter of green frills inside its skirt. The
favorite trimmings for these skirts will be
fhe messy ruches and plsitings of ribbon
which are the spring expression OF the
winters fur and feather borders, and rolls
of velvet or fiat bands of ribbon, braid or
velvet. An occasional panel will be seen
to vary the monOtony, introduced at the
side OF in front, and many skirts will but
ton over at the side. with or without an
ornamental pocket lid. Plain wool gowns
will be simply stitched at the bottom and
q good plan Is to finish them without the
stitching for tho first wearing. and later.
when the edge has worn, to cover the bot
tom with bias band of the dress material.
hal A rrIf a1u rnvg nf Qfl
Concerning the length of the fashiOna-
BILE skirt authorities DISAGREE From Paris,
the seat OF government whence the parlla-
ment OF the mode issues Its laws, comes the
intelligence that trailing skirts arc not N
good taste, except for carriage or house
dresses; that the dainty Partisan could not
tolerate sweeping up the street refuse upon
her pretty frilis, and that skirts with dip
at the back are being offered In the shops
at greatly reduced prices. Bat the leading
New York dress makers agree. and the best
fashion journals athrm that sweeping skirts
are and will be worn in all kinds of gowns.
Every woman knows that she would as
soon think of arguing with highway
man at the point of his siX-shooter con-
corning the amount of her money that he
ought to appropriate, as of arguing with
the fashionable and stately dress-maker
concerning any Objectionable feature OF
her own gown. In either case. If she were
not promptly annihIlated, her interference
would be equally unavaillng. However. 1t
is safe to advise the woman of moderate
means not to cut Oft her long gowns just
yet. and to cut her new dresses with all the
flare ut the bottom she can make compsti-
bic with the extreme clOseness at
the top. Because the dress skirt is just
tight and close 1t can be possibly
worn. 1t follows, as flood tide follows ebb
tide, that the next change must be toward
wider, fuller petticoats. 1t is easy TO gore
down full skirts, but every woman who
lived through the same phase ten years ago
remembers how difficult it is to remodel
close skirts when the mode changes. A
pretty illustration OF the tin de slccle skirt
is in black MORE calling dress, with dull
old rose stripes. The skirt, cut very decid-
edly on the cross, has about the bottom q
small twist of old-rose velvet set between
two black lace ruchings and a Zouave Dor
dered with the same trimming over plain
waist. belted with old-rose moire rIbbOn.
Depi-saisOn toilets may be easily lmpro-
vised from the rich winter gowns already on
hand by the addition of the Henry III col
lar, which Is really a very short little
shoulder cape that protects the chest and
makes q heavy wool gown quite enough
for the promenade on sunny days Another
idea is to have a fichu-shaped shoulder
piece made OF the dress II aterial bordered
with fur. a rough red-brown wool dress
with three bands Of sable around the skirt.
around waist belted with girdle of old
silver chains, and q pointed cape very
brosd on the shoulders and pointed at the
waist, appeared on a bright day last week,
and made half the women and all the men
turn tnelI lehuS lOr second LOOK.
Fashion Notes from Many Sources
Advance hints give warning of the re-
vlval of the quaint poke bonnet
English walking Jackets show cut by
which the sack back is guiltless of single
seam.
Belts are more than ever in fashion.
They are found even or coat waists and
basques.
Foulard. China and surah silks carry all
of last seasons designs In the way of bow
Knots, dots, stripes. flowers anu checks.
Very narrow bias ruffes arranged to
overlap each other will be very popular for
trimming the skirts of spring aud summer
Costumes
Long Jackets have undoubtedly replaced
all others. One feature OF the new coats 10
the pockets. In the desirable new REFER
jackets viii en- come quite long. In beauti-
full fine loths. the pockets are placed two
on the right side. one above the other. and
one on the left.
One of the easiest ways OF Frightening
up q last summers gown il by a corselet of
teIted lace, OF of MORE edged with a mar
row band of jet passementerie. and jet but
TEXTILES and algrettes are worn alike in
stylish bopnets or as smart finish for IN
Awning coiffura