New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-08-21
THE FASHIONS.
SOME AUTUMN CHANGES.
AMERICAN DRESS GOoDS-A LONGER SHOULDER
SEAM-THE NEW COIORS

oDAM-Infs NEW tOITOtsS
The most noteworthy feature OF the seasons i'm
porations OF wooen goods Is 10 set forth paradox.
the lack OF imporations. The progress made in this
| country In the manufacture OF fine wollen dress
goods since the passage OF the Mckinley tariff bill
has been such 10 astOnlsh the most sangulne be-
lievcrs in the ultimate success OF American dress
goods. The largest importing houses, which deal
only In fine, trustworthy goods. now relying
| chiefly their American factories TO meet the re-
Qurements OF their trade The great sample books
! OF the wholesale houses still shown, but they
do not represent mportations they formerly did
They present merely samples OF goods that may
be- ordered from abroad by the piece In case their
| customers desire It. But the pieces OF imported
goods which formerly crowded the counters Of the
gIr wholesale dssers I'm fine wooen goods and
novelties completely superseded in some OF tho
largest and most exclusive houses by American
goods. And these goods. the dealers assert. are
equal in design and color and superior In quality TO
| the European goods, which sold two years ago
at the same price.
| The new goods for fall are soft and warm, but
rather Hight In weight, designed for the first cool
days OF early autumn. Dashes OF wool IN raised
bouton efec: are scattered patterned n soft
foulc background For cooler days t1gre abln-
dance Of rough chevots shot with b6irette figures
I'm Oriental effects. There fine cheviots striped
with silk I'm the Irregular scalelike pattern OF
alligator skin. the goods being woven m two shades
Of the same colored wool I'm decided contrast There
are many rep wooens and inexpensive Bedford cords
which retain their popularity while the plisse and
crepe goods OF last virtually out Of
market having failed TO become popular. There
are many pretty figured goods ribbed or rep
surface, strewn with graceful creScents In shade
darker than the ground OF the goods. There are
figured cloths in neutral grays and browns and in
blues and above all in the resedn- green shades
which promise be the leading colors this winter.
Tho fancy for silk mixtures and silk figured goods
continues. Many Of the pretty. rough wOolens are
figured with fine silk lines In intcrsectng patterns
Stll others shot with silk In waving patterns;
and yet others figured with little dots or the
larger coin spots In silk. These figures arc shown
either In mixed cashmere cOors a neutral back
ground or In a darker shade Of the color as
the ground. There many bengalincS figured
with little squares In the self color. with dasheS OF
rcd added to them. There also many light
b.iGe-colored bcnganes. striped with fine SILK
Stripes or pinhead dots I'm silk u combination OF
both These goods will undoubtedly be us,d In
combination with wool For childrcn's dresses there
are bcngalinss with gay silk stripes. In three or four
dull tapestry colors.
The most noteworthy shade on the general sample
books Is green. This DOES not resemble the yellow.
myrtle OF emerald greens. which have been more or
less popular for two three seasons. but the blush
Russian colors and the grnysh reseda shade. which
are far refined colors In dress than the former
Eron,e green and. sage green also promise to be
popular. A few puppies are still shown for winter
These consist chiefly Of rich shades OF royal purple.
this season called abbess.' and the Aixier purple.
n lighter shade Of the same color.
There are many neutral colors like castor, llama
gray and noIsctte, tea-rose color. The new shade
OF dress goods I'm gray is called this season Ura
I'm recognition Of the popularity Of all Russian
fashions blackish brown shade Is called Egypt
In honor OF the Worlds Fair, the new red Is called
by the French color makers "Chicago.' 1t Is
deep rich color. shading from cardinal but almost
rs dark rs seal brown. In lighter goods shades Of
yellow and OF red will both continue In vogue be-
cause they arc becoming. II is too early yet 10
predict anything definitely rs to the light shades
Pale sage and possibly pale blues promise to take "A
fresh lease OF favor The manufacturers trying
TO Introduce the neutral shades Of blue. popular
many years ago. but they are too striking 10 be
used now without accessories 10 soften their effect
There promises to be little change in the cut and
make OF gowns this season. The bell skirt, with
It's simple border OF trimming at the bottom. still
holds its place in the general favor. A fun uche
OF trimming or several bands OF velvet Is preferred
for autumn to the group OF r,iflies which has been
used on summer dresses The OF a panel OF
trimming or rich material. as often on the right rs
on the left side, is to be feature Of the autumn
dresses and this will relieve the plain
ness OF tne skirt. The sleeve win remain large
at the top. but It Will fit the forearm. while the
shoulder seam Is growing prcepubly longer with
each season. and It expected that evening dresses
VIII again show the slotng shoulder seam. such
foolish. because unbecoming. changes hard to In
troduce and are always made gradually being usually
introduced first in the evening dress where more
striking effects are allowable The Of Striped and
figured goods the promenade, to relieve the severity
OF the plain gowns will be noteworthy part OF the
autumn walking dress.
The heavy Venetian aces and silk guipures intro
ducsd last spring will continue TO be popular. and
OF fine laces Is predicted for the coming winter
Thanks due to Mesrs. Lord & Taylor. James
MoCreery & Co. and Aitken. Son & Co.
A satisfactory Patent.-Family Doctor-well, my
little man, and hoy are you this morningl
Young HOpeful-Oh, nursey says I'm ever 20 much
noymsller naturalization Punch.