The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-04-03


Many people are partial to the sack coat,
and the style this season is shapely and
desirable. All sacks are longer than last
season and show an increased length of
roll. They are not close fitting and have
the side seams moderately curved. The
double-breasted coats made of pieided,
striped and mixed cheviots and other siEr-
liar suitings, will be much worn during
the spring months. For man of average
height the length will be thirty-one inches.
The lapels are moderately peaked, the
fronts are evenly spaced for five holes, the
roll extending to the third. All the pock-
cts have flaps to go either in or out. The
edges are double stitched and the sleeves
are finished with vent and one button.
This straight front single-breasted sack,
either with all the pockets patched on or
with flaps for the lower pockets and
welt for the breast pocket will be much
worn. 1t will be made with all sorts of
sultings in plaids, checks, stripes and mix
lures and will average thirty inches in
length. The edges will be double stitched
when the pockets are patched on, but
when they are not will usually be single
stitched close. The three-button cutaway
sack will be of the same length, and be-
sides being made of cheviots, cassimeres,
tweeds and homespuns, as in the single
breasted sack, will also be of whipcords.
w uCl vi tuC ldllcT lhdtcIldl lie euEeS
will be double stitched on the seams,
Tapped and stitched to match. The fronts
are cut away rather abruptly from
the lower button. which is opposite
the ticket pocket. All the pockets
have flaps and the sleeves are finished
with vent and one button. Stout and
corpulent men and some others will wear
the one button cutaway sack. About
thirty inches is the correct length for this
az 10 Of 90,
is cut away to show three inches of the
vest. The breast pocket is furnished with
vent, but the lower pockets have flaps.
The open or low roll sack will be very
popular during the warmer months. 1t is
of the same length as the other single
breasters, and is almost as full in the front
as the straight front sack. The front is
evenly spaced for five holes and buttons
and the roll should extend to the second
when not buttoned. The finish should be
soft. SO that it may be worn with one but
ton closed, if desired. The fronts, below
the lower hole and button. are boldly
rounded to the button. The breast pocket
is usually finished with welt, but it may
have, as the lower pockets, flaps TO 90 in
or out. The edges are double stitched,
and the sleeves are finished with a vent
closed with one button. For sack suit
the vest is single breasted, has notched
collar with crease, opens from IA to Is
inches, and is 25X inches long, The
trousers are slightly sprung and have the
side seams welted. They range from 20
to p inches in width at the knee and from
17I to Is inches at the bottom.
A handsome garment and one that is
greatly admired for day and ha!f-dress
during the summer is the straight front
single-breasted frock coat. 1t is made of
the same materials, finished in the same
mn Il l.
casions as the double-breasted frock. 1t
has five button-holes and buttones evenly
spaced and either closes with four or rolls
free when the fronts are thrown open.
For evening dress, except that both
peaked lapels and the shawl roll coat are
made longer they are the same as last
year. The average lengths are from thirty
eight to forty inches to the bottom of the
skirt. The Cowes or Tuxedo sack coat
will be worn at 'stag" dinner and thea,er
parties and at the club. They will be made
of fine worsteds. Cheviots will also be
used in making the regulation evening
dress suit, the coat of which will have a
velvet collar.
In overcoats, the Chesterfield or Hy-
front overcoat, made from chevlots, wor-
steds and other materials, will be the IA
vorite overgarment. The length ranges
from thirty-nine to forty-two inches. tbs
close-fitting. A new and desirable effect
is obtained by spacing the two upper holes
seven inches apart. This gives the roll
when the fronts are closed an unusual
length and is suggestive of the approach of
summer. The shawLroll Chesterfield, silk
faced TO the edge, is a dressy garment and
will be considerably worn, with the covert
coat, averaging thirty-6ve inches in
length, made of covert coating, is decid-
eddy swell and useful garment. For even
ing wear the Inverness will be as popular
as ever.
There will be few novelties in fabrics
this season, the manufacturers ingenuity
seemingly having been exhausted in that
direction. As between hard and soft
clothes a compromise by good dressers will
be made by selecting what are known as
half vicunas and unsheared worsteds. The
colorlngs are divided between tans and
grays, with the preference in favor of the
latter. As novelty the pure silver gray
Is destined to become conspicuous as
spring approaches and will divide the
honors with what is known as London
gray. The patterns, though inclining to
greater brightness, are by no means glar-
ing. The tendency is to invisible plaids
and checks. In Scotch goods many at
tractive patterns are shown of large but
subdued effects, barely showing the lines
of plaids or checks. Handmade home
spuns will also be popular, but are ex-
eeedingly high-priced. Clay diagonals of
fine wool will also be much worn. Fine
worsteds running to wide herring bone
vale stripes in grays and brown-grays,
finely lined with darker contrasting
color. will be the choice for fine trouser-
ings.
In the matter of neckwear there is an
endless variety to choose from. Bright
yellow, flaming red, dark maroon, white
heliotrope and other fashy colors are dis
played IN the shop windows. The best
dressed men, however, do not go to the
extremes in either direction. The high
standing collar with turned-over edges re-
mains popular. Not one man in thousand
here wears a turnover collar. The ties
that go round these collars are made in
such way that they can be punched to-
gether effectively and pinned with small
scarf pin. Made-up ties are but little
worn. Fancy shirtings are very popular.
They are worn in all Imaginable
shades, but no well-dressed man would
wear other than white collar. although
his cuffs must be of the color of his shirt
for street or negligee wear. Jewelry is but
little worn now. The day of heavy gold
watch chains and massive scarf pins is
over. Only the tiniest pins are worn with
scarfs, and for evening dress three tiny
studs. These may be of gold, silver or
diamonds, as the wearers' fancy and
pocket-book will allow. Link sleeve but
tons have entirely superseded the old
fashioned cuff button, and in place of the
heavy watch chain there is worn small,
thin chain that extends from one lower
vest pocket TO the other, without being
put even through the buttonhole of the
vest. In finger rings. however fashion
able London men seem TO exercise wide
variety of opinion. One may wear half a
dozen tinger-rings, or none at all, and still
be in the swim.
In headgear and footwear there is no
noticeable change. Silk hats are worn
upon any and all occasions. no matter