davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23

TaE society Of tramps this season Will
be largely augmented by returning
boomers from newly opened Indian res
ervations.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23

HELENA, Dillon and Red Bluff are IN
the free silver club line. Now, the
next
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23

We are now prepared to supply dealers with wall paper
in any quantity at factory prices with freight added.
Samples sent on application. We are also prepared to do
paper hanging, fresco painting, wall tinting and interior
painting at low prices on short notice. We are prepared
to give our patrons correct taste and exact workmanship.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23

The fur on grandfather's hat may be
turned by the rain in Helena this even-
trr # @.1 y. G- A@E -|-"M |-%E II
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23

The celebrated jackson corset waist in black
and colors, only ut Butcher x Bradley's.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-04-23
THE WEATHER..

Reported for The INDEPENDENT ually oy T. :
Glass, United States observer.
N 800 a. m. 600 .. m.
- 29.0a0 2a.S7S
nhronae.., $50 AIS
VIM sw- 8 s-l2
Total precipitation: Trace. "
Temperature at noon. 5a.u. 44
Maximum temperature. bt.O.
Minimum temperature, 1871. -~
Forecast: Light showers: warmer "@"
HELENA, Mont. April %. 1882. -
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
1.-THE TABLE, THE B0UD0R, HOME DECORATIONS AND HYGIENE

other soft yielding outline which destroys
the character of the garment by making
weakness where strengh is needed, there
should be collar of gems in substantial
| setting, or binding of strong texture, as of
velvet, or fllet of intertwined strands to
uphold the drsperies of lace or other deli
cate film. This fillet must not be so low but
that it iswell supported upon the shoulders
A strong texture is sometimes as effective as
a stronger texture-as rose pink, or brown,
to pale pink draperies; but the deep color
must be reserved for the fllet alone, as if
used elsewhere on the garment all its mean
ing will be lost
The garment may be in one piece or two,
but its confinement to the waist should ap-
pear to be by betting and not by curved in
seams.
The first design here given shows the
effort of young English girl, who is now
visiting in this country, to produce an even
ing dress on artistic lines. She has gone to
the classics and adapted with much success
the peplos of Athene.
The second drawing is a suggestion Of
what may be done by the study of texture.
The cloth is crepe de chine. The fllet
about the neck is made of intertwined and
knotted sashes, and from it the garment,
finely plated. appears to hang in one piece,
bound about the waist by soft ropes of the
same material, knotted for strength.
Not all fabrics can be used in this way,
but only those whose nature is to lie in
wrinkled folds. Cloths with tendency to
smoothness that springs out of folds as soon
as constraint is removed, such as cashmere,
for instance, are unsuitable to this treat
ment. ADA BACHE-CoNE-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

purchase piece of bottle-green suede and
cut it 13 inches long by 515 inches wide.
Mark off 2H inches at each end for the
pockets, and over the surface between the
two lines draw feur de lis as the illustra-
tion shows Then with genuine Turkish
thread, or, if you cannot obtain that, with
fine Japanese gold, work all the figures,
press the work very carefully and line the
leather with some Indian silk of its own
color; using at the same time an inter-lining
OF grey linen canvas, such as is individually
ased for dress facing ----, --..
Turn over each end onto the lining, at the
line where the embroidery begins, and
neatly slip stitch the ends together so as to
make pocket at each end of the case.
Lastly fold in the center and press sufi-
ciently to make the case take the desired
shape and it will be complete.
After the same general plan may be made
the prayer book cover, whish is arranged to
slip over the binding, and which not only
preserves the latter, but adds final touch
OF Individuality to the owners possession.
Either the owners monogram or the sacred
l. ID. s., enclosed in a heay circle of
gold or silver, makes as nearly perfect a
model as any that can be offered.
The best possible materials with which to
obtain satisfactory results in the embroider-
ing of slippers of all colors are the Turkish
floss, genuine Turkish gold, silver thread
and fine cut heads. The floss is the softest
and best of all the many good silks which
the shops. supply, and for all designs in
which satin stitch is employed, is as perfect
as silk can be. Beads are always admissable
upon the toe for woman's slipper, and
where touch of brilliancy is desired are
highly to be recommended if they be of the
best obtainable makes. But poor cheap
beads must be avoided as surely as YOU hone
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

for success. Economy, excellent thing that
it is, must be put aside for the time and only
the best be purchased, else your work will
prove dull and rusty and your slippers
prove disappointment.
The design given is intended for slipper
OF tan colored suede and should be worked
with the finest, most flexible of gold threads.
The work should all be done in simple Ken
sington stitch. at that can be relied on to
give greater sense of fexibility than any
other stitch known to the embroiderers' art.
The decoration is both graceful and FASH
ionable and the slipper will be found we'll
suited to number of forms, as the soft tans
and gold shades harmonize with multitude
of other and more prominent colors The
mechanical work of making must, as mat
ter Of course. be left to the expert manufac-
turer, but both the pattern and the special
shades selected may be exclusively the
owners
Besides the slippers there are two. other
bits of apparel into which this soft and
lovely suede can easily be made and
without which no comment on its posi-
bilities would be complete-the waistcoat
and the bonnet crown. The former may be
embroidered in number of different ways
with equally good results. Simple and
slightly conventionalized flower forms are
always good as are all geometrical figures
Combinations of circles make good effect
With really very little work and such de-
sign as the one given can be taken as sug-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

judge by this work seen in New York, owe
this eminence not to art, but to skill in
dressing novelties. A well-known New
York woman recently received from Felix
an evening gown which had band of passe-
menteries sewed down the middle of the
gored front breadth. The rest of the dress
corresponded with this Imbecility. There il
no art here: there is only imbecility.
Advantage of the Evening Gown.
When women begin to study beauty for
the sake of-dress, the results are likely to
show first in evening garments, which are
freer than any other from conditions of
utility. Also the women who wear them
have wealth, which gives advantages of
knowledge, as we'll as choice of materials.
Concerning evening dress, it ought to refer
its weight to the shoulders. This is espe-
cially required for dress of leisure, so that
1t will be in harmony with its surroundings.
The painters, if they have done little for
dress, have at least shown us this. Such
dress should have in it no suggestion of
effort, and it is at the shoulders that gravity
is resisted most easily. The bodice that
cllngs round the waist, with only incidental
assistance from the Misunderstanding
gravity by lightness-is a manifestation of
effort, and out of place in the drawing room
Its prototype is the peasants waist. 1t
speaks of labor.
A yoke or fillet about the shoulders
should be the source of all the lines and the
center of strength of the evening gown;
this can be done without departing from
fashionable lines. There is no sign that
fashion understands this sort of beauty, vet
one sees it here and there, stumbled on by
accident, in modish gowns
Well Supported on the shoulders.
In place of the usual gathered lace or
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

their special uses and then the owners
tastes, habits and characteristics Better q
few things of real worth than crowd of
cheap ones without value intrinsically or
from association. But come and look at a
spot which I think every house should have
somewhere"
We entered the adjoining room, and In
one corner was q most luxurious looking
Eastern divan piled high with cushions,
and over it hung canopy of cords and tas-
sells of white linen woven in an intricate
pattern.
''That surely is not within the compass Of
every ones purse!"
"Oh, yes it is. Have frame Of common
pine wood about six feet square and two
feet high. On it place set of bed springs
and on that mattress. Cover the whole
thing with some heavy material. Don't
upholster it; simply put the cover on like
a bedspread, letting it hang down to the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

right foot, bringing the train within sup.
porting distance, and curving highly-edu-
Gated spinal column brings o jeweled fan
upward with corresponding sweep as If to
momentarily conceal her intentions from
the enemy.
The latter gives faint indication of de-
sire to manifest its knowledge OF some
thing, but manages to suppress it. Only q
slight twitching of the lip and the raising
OF the right hand to rearrange misplaced
hair of the mustache show that it is alive.
How Spoken Language Is Extracted
Del Sartean plays both eyebrows on it
without effect, pumps in II different express
slons of intelligence from beneath the long
lashes, and with graceful gathering OF
both arms and an inclination of the entire
body, lays the weather at its feet. This
elicits actual spoken language:
'Y-yaas, deuced weatheh." And again
absolute vacancy.
Following up this successful break, the
Del Sartean flashes look heavenward, de-
scribes six quick circles in the air with her
fan and shrugs her fair shoulders, while she
daintily gathers in her draperies with her
other hand. This is to indicate that it has
been raining cats and dogs, not to mention
occasional pitchforks and omuibusses, all
day, and that she has kept indoors and out
of the wet in consequence. The Sign
doesn't understand it-of course, doesn't
try to understand it. So she labels 1t.
Then the Sign says ''Y-yaas" again and re-
sumes vacancy
This is a little discouraging, but the Del
Sartean comes up to the scratch once more
with ninedistinct facial plays designed to
confuse and obfuscate the male opposition.
The combination has previously been tried
with moderate success, upon ahltchlng post.
Its execution is not apparent on the Sign.
Tries n Step From the Nautch Dance.
She then tries the lateral twist, familiar
to careful observers OF the Nautch dance,
coupled with backward and upward mo-
tion of the head, the chin we'll advanced,
the eyebrows running of at a tangent, the
right foot being brought down with firm
expression and the hands clssped immedla-
tely over the bread-basket, as If In pain.
This means that she doesn't care tlnker's
outfit for either the weather or the Sign.
And without labelling it she pivots on one
heel, describes the usual Transmitting
pigeon wing with the other foot. lncllnes
her spinal colum and withdraws her forces
from the field.
The Sign shifts its weight on the other
leg, breathes long breath and presently
seeks B. s. S Meeting chum at the
same refreshment he says:
"Awe-ole chap-s'glad. Queeah ques-
chsw, that Miss Booth-she, awe-almost
makes me laugh, don't yeknow."
Vive la Del Sartel Down with the British
Indian tobacco sign systeml Put on your
boxing gloves, take up your foils, girls, and
give it to 'em in the neck. Marry 'em!
CHARLES THEODORE MURRAY.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

floor Cover the pillows with some of the
pretty but inexpensive art fabrics and there
it is OF course the canopy is not at all
necessary. A friend sent me this hammock
from the Argentina and as it was too dainty
to put to its original use arranged it over
my couch.
'T have great fondness," Mrs Logan
went on to say, ''for things with associa-
tions- This" pointing to o massive ma
hogany dressing-table with oval mirror and
brass handles to the drawers, belonged to
President Buchanan when he was minister
to England. This cup and saucer once be-
longed to the Princess Bismarck and these
Indian relics in the hall were given to my
husband by different friends. Festina
lente,' literally translated, don't be in too
much of a hurry, is good motto for house.
hold decoration. Individuality, decora-
tions which mean something from associa-
tion or actual worth-on that plan I have
furnished my home"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

see the birth of the art of dress. But do
not let us make any mistake. It is not suf-
ficientto look back with admiring eyes at
| the dress of the Greeks. We must ask what
causes its beauty, and with the knowledge
gained produce something original in har-
| monv with our modern life. The hindrance
to doing it lies, 1 fancy, just here. Causes
are abstract and the generality of women
are no: students. Those that are are occu-
pied with other subjects. This may ex-
plain why a subject of such lively interest
to half the world is as yet without any
aesthetic development.
Immense possibilities for beauty lie wait
ing in materials till we learn how to develop
them. The single proposition that folds
should obey the laws which control their
texture, opens up a rich field. When we
have learned to work it we shall cease con-
straining textures into forms unnatural to
them. by Innings, and wirings, and seam
ings, and shall permit them to fall so as to
exhibit their own nature.
When Texture Leads ITSELF
When we know little more we shall
cease sewing upon our gowns ugly machine
made trimmings. whose only effect is just
such display Of itself as the shop counters
afford, and learn to develop from the cloth
its ornamental qualities. We know very
little about the beauty there is in wrinkled
drapery, when the texture leads itself-ac-
cordion plaits pressed discriminately into
every kind of fabric mean nothing, except
that we have looked at the Niobe and
learned no lesson. In knots aud in folds
drawn into soft ropes to bind the drapery
to the figure; in such ends that fall and
overlap, like wings folded down, and give
in folded lines varied surface of light and
shade, in these there is an infnity of
beauty all untouched.
Are these things not of more pleasure to
the eyes than idiotic panels and passemente-
ries, even though arranged by q Worth?
The great Partisan dressmakers, if one may
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24


In It's more delicate tirts it suits the
dainty volumes of poems; the silver-clasped
card case; the cuffs and collar of dinner
gown, and even the crown Of anevening bon
net, while in its darker shades it can be
trusted to trim walking gown, to make
the best of slippers, to cover the cushion Of
chair, and to do multitude of things
which make it dear to woman's heart.
Painted il does excellent decorative service,
embroidered it is fit for even Queens
wear, and left in state of untouched
beauty 1t is good enough for anybody.
Suede, being much in vogue, can be OBJ
tanned from any of the larger dealers in
either shoes or gloves, but where quantity
is needed the better as we'll as the more
economical plan, is to seek at once the
wholesale dealers in hides. To make a card
case, which can be trusted to give feeling
ofgenuine satisfaction upon every occasion,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
The Universal Report
from Every Section:

letter just received from St Paul merchant says
"The sales of DR.. Prices Delicious Flavoring Ex-
tracts have doubled within the past three months and
the demand is constantly increasing This is account
ed tor by the fact that DR. Prices havors are Just as
Representatives, from poisonous oils and ethers are
true to nature, made from the finest fruits of delicate
TASTE and OF the greatest strength attanable The
housewife who uses them once will never onrcb,ss
the cheap substitutes
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

gestion for many more Upon foundation
of pale colored suede it might be worked
with excellent effect by using the following
combination Of materials. Outline the
semicircular lines with etching silk one
shade darker than the leather and work the
triangular sprays which start from every
angle in the best Of silver thread and your
waistcoat will be tasteful and in good form.
G. l. B.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

personal and home
adornment, suede is,
perhaps, susceptible
Of the widest range
of treatment. 1t
makes the softest of
pillows, the dainti-
est of book covers,
the most unique of
bonnets and the
smartest of waist
coats. It is service
able, it is beautiful,
and it can be found
in a variety of colors,
so that its uses need
really be limited
only by the ingenu-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
She Came Near tho Spot

Harper's Bazar.1
Miss Allsoul-I take 1t, Mr.. Longface,
that you, too, have seen your trouble in
life's voyage. feel that my own sad e1.
perience gives me the right to speak; you
will take no offense, I'm sure.
Mr.. L.-Oh, not at all! Certainly!
haven't been without my affliction.
Miss A. (with look of deep interest. y
A heart trouble, fancy.
Mr.. L.-Well-in that neighborhood-
weak digestion.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

Many persons who have recovered from
Ia grippe are now troubled with persistent
cough. Chamberlain's Cough Remedy will
promptly loosen this cough and relieve the
lungs, effecting permanent cure in a very
short time. 25 and 50-cent bottles for sale
BY druggists. rTsu
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
KRa LeGAE's HOUSE NoTIoHA
How She Provides for Both Beauty and
Comfort at Calumet Place.
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsP ATcU1

WRITTEN FOR THE DISPATCH.1
Anyone who enters Mrs. Logan's beauti-
full home in Calumet place in Washington
instantly recognizes the existence of a
marked personality somewhere that has
brought the surroundings of the home into
beautiful harmony and yet has secured a
distinct individuality everywhere. Any
one who knows personally the mistress of
the house, will understand this at once
Her home is exactly like herself
II have never had an unlimited purse to
draw upon for my furnishings" said the
mistress of Calumet place recently to the
writer, "and while it may be easier to give
an order and say furnish this room in such
style and such COLOR it certainly does
not develop individuality and that
to my mind IS the first re-
quisite. Rooms ought first to suggest
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
Easy to Get q Confession.

Detroit Free Press.1
: he (accepted)-You say you were never
engaged before?
She-Yes.
He-How does that happen? I thought
all women usually had three or four en-
gagements.
She (guilelessly)-Well, I presume 1
shall, too. You see, this is the first chance
I've had.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
No Pooling with the Law.

Harper's Bazar.]
His Honor-How old are you, MADAME
Witness-I have seen % summers.
His Honor-Humph! How long have you
been blind?
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
NEW DANCES OF THE DAY.

Aasin Dress and Furniture, Society People
Arc Going Back to the Old Times ior
Their steps-The Stately Minuet and
Variations Other Movements.
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPATCH.I
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

Ugh social circles
have of late years
been known to attempt
to popularize such old
Spanish and French
dances as the pavane
and the minuet. But
for some reason or
other, neither the pa
vane nor minuet be-
came very popular.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
INFANCY OF DRESS ART.

It DRAWS Its Inspiration From Nature and
We Are Just Beginning to Understand
That Fact-Fashion Plates Arc Blind
Leaders-Evening Gowns.
WRITTEN FOR THE pIsPATcH.l
Dress as an art is in its infsncy-nay, is
not yet born. For art of whatever sort
must draw its inspiration from nature, but
the women who devote themselves to dress
are wasting their time in the study of fash
ion books The art of dress cannot be
created in this way. If painter wanting
to produce landscape should copy tree
from one chrome and sky from another,
and so on until his canvas is covered, he
could not be called an artist.
The women say that it is necessary to fol-
low the fashion. But all accidents of cut are
not fashion. All that is important to know
of fashion is the general tendency of essen
tials. There is fashion in painting, too.
The artists of to-day do not paint like those
of years ago, but no painter would think Of
initiating another mans work in order to
put himself In sympathy with his time. He
submits himself to the influences about him,
but his study is nature and his expression is
original.
Goes Back to Natural Laws.
This same thing we must do in dress If we
are to produce artistic results. We must
study forms, textures, colors and the condi-
tions under which the garments is to be
worn, not fashion plates, and We must do it
with minds informed of the laws of beauty.
When we understand this we shall perhaps
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

WRITTEN FOR THE prsPArcH.1
Of all the many materials which have en-
riched the recent range of choice, both for
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24

ALL classes praise DR.. Bulls Cough
Syrup, the crest remedy of our aga Only
25 cents.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
THE UTILITY OF SUEDE.

A Woman With Deft Fingers VIII Surprise
Ono by tho Variety OF Articles sho WIN
Make From It-Any.hinC From Bonnets
to Slippers
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-24
DEL SARTE IS HERE,
Already Locked in a Mortal Struggle
With the English or Indian
Tobacco Sign Style
fRH CHARACTERISTICS OF EACH.
Graphic description Of an Encounter Be-
tween Two Typical opponents Of
the Innovations
SENSATIONAL METHODS OF ATTACK.
Lau Spirited Engagement the Aggressive Psrty
Retires in Confusion
OF THE prsrA1on.i
NEW YORK, Jan. q,

Oh1 oAAs 0o
UST recently we have
been getting Q good
deal of Del Sarte. We
have had sporadic at
tacks of social crank
mess from Oscar
Wilde to Norcross,
but to serve some
great and, as yet, un-
known purpose, We
have as a Nation
The Waco evening news. [volume] (Waco, Tex.) 1891-1894, 1892-02-04
NJ. l. VINANS.
To SUBSCRIBERS.

Mr.. S, j. Quay has bought the city
circulation of THE News and takes
charge of it today. He will reorgan-
ize his force of carriers and in other
ways owe the delivery. All SUBJ
scriptions are payable to him or at the
business office of THE News. We
hope the patrons of the paper will
settle promptly with him when he
calls on them as their failure to do so
will force him to cut them from the
list, because he can not afford to
pay for the paper unless the subscrib-
ers pay him.
Mr.. Quay is well.known to the
business people of Waco and needs
no Introduction.