New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-02-14
THE FASHIONS.
PRETTY UNDERWEAR-STYLES FOR CHII.
DREN,

no. be brought for several weeks whie all the
mporatlons OF the wholesale departme nave already
been shown In samples. There nave peen many
openings of wholesale millinery, however. NO special
novelty CT shape make is shown III tneSe bohnets
All the bonnets for elaborate wear are extremely
small dainty CONNECTIONS Of lace and Jet hardly
more than ead-dresses, with trimming OF flowers
or ribbon I'm some delicate fower-lke color These
bonnets fit closely to the head than ever Deore
if that possible, but are usually peaked up IN
some smart little just over the forehead 10 sho"
a face trimming OF roses other flowers. For more
general wear there small hats OF Milan OF cmp
finished with face trimming Of dull, olive grasses
and garnture of yellow and rose hyadnths with
dull oIvine foliage. The chic way In which
these materials put together, massed IN uny
FORM has more to do with the bonnets than
the materials. The pattern bOnnets thus iar dis
played do not show as many burnt biscuit ana
ecru nts as has predicted but these coors will
be- no doubt feature OF the retail millinery openings.
The use OF point de Genes, Genoa lace In connec-
lion with black velvet and black Jet, IS noteworthy
everywhere. a dainty little hat Of this kind was
I'm hatcrOwned sailor shape, with an open brim OF
let The soft crown of black velvet was draped with
creamy Genoa lace, which Is now made In the ricn
arabesque patterns Of old Venetian point. sun
bow of black velvet ribbon wired to stand stifhy In
place. was thrust up from the back OF the hat, anu
long streamers Of black velvet, OF which was
designed to forward, finished the trimming
Strange combinations OF neutral tnts are seen among
some of the pattern bonnets, like pearl gray and ecrl
or gray and yellow though this may simply be an
eccentricity OF the and find no permanent favor
These odd, delicate colorings are shown on large
hats with open-work brims Of fancy straw and gold,
which arc no doubt designed to be worn with dresses
I'm larmonizng colors for garden parties and other
elaborate country fetes. As has been pre-
dicted there is a great deal OF pink ribbon and
many pink flowers the black lace and black Jet hats
The new black laces used IN millinery are OF tho
sheerest possible quality
The month of February and the quiet Of Lent arc
usually occupied with summer sewing and fine white
work for underwear. Thus II comes TINT all the
shops are now making special display Of muslin EN-
broieres laces and shapes in undertaking. In
spite OF the muchalkcdof changes in material and
the Of color, shops which cater exclusively 10
refined custom do not report any such change Lanes
Of refined tastes still Use white cambria linen or
nansook underwear in preference 10 silk or any OF
the imported novelties in color material which are
displayed in general shops. Garments are still
simply made in the danticSt manner by hand. with
| hemstitched hens and trimmings Of fine needework
| or lace.
| Gowns are generally made of fine French nalnsooks
! exceedingly full. with the full French sleeve. The
standing ruies long used at the throat and sleeve
are giving place 10 rufHe az least four and han
inches WIDE made Of sheer nalnsook fine batiste,
| trimmed with lace Or embroidered in needlework, or
else simply finished with a plain hemsttched hcm
| about half an inch wide. The yoke gown seems to
be entirely a thing OF the past. All the new gowns
are full at the back, the fness being laid In beow
the neck band in a square of tUckina, or In some cases
! held I'm oy a cluster Of chlrring about three inches
wide. Hence the garment lows IN full Watteau-i Ike
folds. The front Of the gown IS in full French shape
| opening in the front In connection with the vide
ruie at the neck and falln; down either side 10 the
waist the garment gives the effect o! volumlnous
drapery, which is very graceful we'll as comfortable
TO wear. The wide rufte at the fun French sleeve
falls over the hand Most OF these arranged
80 that they are slightly pointed In the neck, though
some nre still buttoned TO the throat. few fine hnl-
mel nightgowns are made for travelling wear, or for
individuals who are peculiarly susceptible 10 the
silk gowns. gowns of coored silk such as are freely
displayed in some shops, find any favor except with
in their dress only one concession 70 ne use OF
color is in the best underwear-a halfinch hem
which trim French gowns. Even this finds few
buyers in comparison to the pure white gown
\ garment with square or pointed neck. trimmed
with narrow insertions and lace, dantily en-
Recamer shape fun on the shoulder is not as much
used as it was, because It is more difficult to auDs s
orally fitted into the figure in front by cluster OF
tuc both sides Of the 'front.' In place OF the dar'
seams.
Dealers In fine underwear report many sales
Of white skirts for housewear as formerly;
| but the white peticcat for street wear Is
n thing OF the past. 1t has been entirely
superseded by the black dark tafeta silk
petticoat These skirts are usually simply trimmed
with cluster OF froufOu rufiies pnked on the edge
and laid the other, 10 give boufant effect 90
the edge Of the dress skirt. few skirts have wide
rufie trimmed with black lace above this cluster OF
pnked rufc,. Most OF the shops which furnish under
sell elaborate skirts OF black satin brocade.
which designed 10 be with morning sacques,
| with tea gOwns which open in front and display an
undcrskir Peignoirs, robes des chambre are made
of cashnerS and nuns Yelling OF sheer fine quality In
pale blue delicate rose white and other flower
like tints These garments In loose flowing shape,
frequently made with back in Vatican effect, or when
th, Is unbecoming the same fulness is held into tho
wastlnc by pleats. which it falls I'm soft folds.
These garments are generally trimmed with creamy
hoanE IDIohs OF 'iTs arc niite oon omen ut one
Side with soft jabotl like rute trimming them around
| the throat and Is faf down a. the waistiine
still other, are finished with huge sailor collars Of
lace or Insertion. which serve 10 conceal the high yoke
| at the back, whence The Iulness falls
Mother, who are already making up their childrcn's
| cingham and cambrc dresses for summer advised
that there /, little marked change in the general pat
| tern Of these little gowns. \ high-necked dress
| trimmed with embroidery is often seen address
| with a guimpe Ginslams In white, with hairlnes OF
color and durable French cambcs In the same dainty
effects are shown for children and there many gay
| scotch plaid gnghams which usually made up
with trimmings OF white embroidery, or to be worn
with white gumpe. The fayoriie pattern Tor pam,
highnecked dress for II child OF from four 10 ten las
pleaed front laid either in side pleats or box peas.
with strip OF white insertion in the centre Revers
OF the gingham edged with embroidery pass over the
shoulders and are fulled little they cross the
shoulder for about two inches on each side OF the
shoulder seam. The sleeve is still high and full. ~
give smart, stylish appearance to the little gown.
The skirt plain and tull. and has simply wide hem
nj the bottom which should be done BY hand In order
in tini.l IN ipne ara m
high pulled sleeves and the same full revefs describes
Tor high neched dresses
for older school girls are made almost ex-
acty a. they last with pcated SHIRT waists
or Jacket waists and plain and simple skirts, with
| without a cluster OF tucks above the hem.