The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-11-20
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
a RIVAL OF THs EXPIRE MAKES
ITS APPEARANCE.

| Hmplre A4LORef ntr - BCdiceS ana
Some Very Pretty Ones Described.
The Diversity in Sleevee-Any Guam
THY TO Select From.
tCoDyI0ht.l
NEW YoRK, Nov. 19-Did you say that
empire was the style! Did you say that
everything that comes from Paris or the
great London modistes has an empire touch.
either Of the first, under Josephine. with
low-cut, short-waisted bodice. or of the sec
ond, under Eugenie. a la crlnolinea
But what would you say if you heard that
the empire revival was TO be only very
short-lived that it was soon to be super
eeded by the mode of $780, that even now
Paris has declared herself in favor of it be
cause she thinks it a graceful ''go-Detween, y
! a style that has all the beauties of both and
the extravangancies of neitherl It's lit
tie tantatizing, don't you think SO. to dis
| cover that your newest gown, cut in the
very latest fashion, as you supposed, is aoout
to be followed by another which will usurp
its places
But take heart; don't cast OFF your pretty
new gown. 1t Will take a long while for
the empire to become old-fashioned, and
| there isn't such a difference between the old
! and the new to make it worth while getting
| the latter, and perhaps those of US who are
on this side of the water will still cling to
our first love. For there's a good deal of
! Independence even in the matter of dress
about the American woman, and favorite
style Will often finger long after it has been
| declared old-fashioned.
This was never more strikingly exempli>
| fled than in the matter OF the bell skirt
! Long after Worth and Felix had practically
| abandoned it it reigned supreme, and one
! could find scarcely a single costume worn
| by an American that had not q bell skirt.
At present the bell, when it is used, is drawn
! just as tightly over the hips. but flares much
( wider at the feet.
| The trimming of skirts grows daily. You
can watch it creeping farther and farther
up. Just at present it reaches the knees and
| should stop there.
There is still, however much more atten-
| ton paid to the corsage than to the skirt Of
gown. saw remarkably pretty one to-
| day on young girl. 1t was quite elabo-
rate for the almost plain skirt, that had
simply a deep band Of beaver at the edge.
| The bodice bad q white crepe front, vito
full white velvet belt hooking in-the back
| under knot of ribbon. Over the front
came short jacket fronts, beaver color,
closely embroidered in narrow black braid,
and edged with beaver. There was also a
| band of embroidery at the neck, and one Of
fur above. The sleeves were quite short
| first, puffs to the elbow of the cloth, then
wide hanging rutfies embroidered and
edged with fur.
A pretty directoire bodies that l saw for
home wear was made of black cloth, dotted
with black silk spots, and had white
| belt covered with heavy black silk lace
| Venetian point. The bodice turned back in
large revers over white satin front that
was almost completely covered by large
bow in black tulle. The sleeves were al
| most plain and had simply cuff on the
| style of the belt.
| l saw another bodice intended for a very
| young girl. 1t was all white aud green
which ia a particularly popular combination
| this season, especially for evening wear.
| One sees white gowns with green velvet
sleeves green gowns with a quantity of
| white softening their shades. lE is a re-
markably pretty combination, and has
another advantage-that OF suiting di-
| Versity OF compilations. Women who have
| not the best of skins can wear IL becominRiy.
| This bodice was made OF fine white ma
| terial, and had pointed white belt, as we'll
as large square yoke of white. The yoke
! and belt, however, were closely covered
with exquisite green embroidery, done in
| fine stitches. The collar was the same, and
| three bands Of the embroidery went around
the plain, lower sleeve.
| Pretty, fancitul vests, to slip over dress
fronts or plain bodioes. are growing very
popular. A very pretty one is made Of
| black velouTs and Is trimmed with beaver
The vest fronts are cut down into narrow
points that fall just below the full wide belt
| of the same material. These fronts are
| edged with fur, which also runs around the
neck, and two large velvet buttons are
fastened at either side.
Some delicate ones are made in white or
pale colored satins or brocades and have
short, wide-open fronts, full wide belts, and
occasionally little short pointed piece fol-
lowing over the top of the arm in lieu of a
sleeve They are particularly pretty in the
light dainty materials.
Let me tell you Of another bodice for
evening wear. 1t is cut quite low and
round. tits made up of heavy green silk
and has pretty gathering of green ali
| around the low cut neck. The ruffle ties
in bow at the front. There are short
green velvet puffs for sleeves, and a green
| velvet belt.
What wonderful revolution the sleeve
has undergone, has it nots When we COM
pare the plain, tight-htting one Of a few
years bacS, that had nothing to redeem it
from absolute plainness. not even a
shoulder puff, with the light airy,
creation of to-day, with its quaint
turns and curves, and puffs and gathers, and
all sorts of odd fancies, we can scarcely be-
lieve they are intended for one aud the
same thing. The varieties never cease to
come forth. Let me see-there's the high
puff, the low puff, the short full puff, the
leg of-mutton, the Louis Kill, the 1880,
the style especially designed for evening
wear, the one that can only be worn with
dinner dress, the one for afternoons, the one
for morning, and so many others that we're
perfectly bewildered. Some of them are
ridiculous, but most OF them are very
pretty.
Take the styles for afternoon wear, for
instance. It's rather difficult to describe
them, and you can tell better by looking at
the sketch Just how they are made. They
are very graceful, with their puffs, one
falling in cascades and one simply joining
the tight lower sleeve that is cut in fanciful
| revers and that buttons on top.
The evening sleeves are particularly
dainty. The one in brocade, with the short
puff caught together in a shell and with the
deep lace flounce falling from it. Is becom-
ing; SO Is the one for dinner gown made of
two puffs the lower much shorter than the
upper, and with lace ruffle also caught UP
with a ribbon bow.
Then there's the one after the manner Of
Louis Kill, that hangs In wide, loose
plaits, caught In at the elbow by a ribbon
knot, and then allowed to fall as IL will.
The sleeve Of 1896 has very queer, wide
puff, shirred at the top and bottom, and
| beneath plain, tight sleeve.