The sun., 1892-10-02
Wines.

Again this year We nave dOlOr-ralStnX
news from France about the years yield Of
all the three choicest kinds OF French
wine: claret. champagne. and burgundy.
In regard to the first. we are told that
1.-THE scorching Of grapes in the claret dis
tricts means q small yield of Indifferent
quality" In regard to the second. we
are told that the ravages Of the phyllox-
era in the heart Of the champagne region
will make the yield less than half that Of
last year" Burgundy. too. will be scarce
and dear. The news is given in detail by
tho Vine Trade Rerier. There will be grief
in many souls all over the world on &C.
count Of 1t.
Yet wine drinkers need not fall into de-
spair of the utter kind. 1t is consoling
fact that very fair claret and champagne
Of native American growth can be procured
In these times. By sampling all the varie-
ties of the red wine raised between the Pa
cifc seaboard and the Potomac River. a
man OF Judgment may find something to his
fancy. He must not give up the search
after trying q few kinds and declaring
that they are all bad or intolerable:
he must be patient until he finds the toler-
able. then the passable. the imperfect yet
not really bad. the mediocre or ordinary.
the pretty good. the very fair. the quite up
to decent quality. We are assured by men
Of experience that this last named can be
discovered bya diligent and patient search
or after claret possessed OF those rare quail
ties inherent In the choicest French from
Bordeaux. We are not here advertis-
ing any particular kind OF American
,.t,, n all,
that some kinds OF 1t may be found
fit for consumption by men of natural gifts
and broad experience. In whom the iollicles
OF taste and the follicles Of smell are we'll
developed. 1t Is impossible to deceive q
full-grown. weil-cultured. properly-rlpened
claret scholar. Such scholar tries the
cup. criticises 1t keenly. applies at least
three OF his senses to the scrutiny Of It.:
and. in case it fulfil all tho obligations. he
is overcome by gentle form OF poetic
mania. which Is tho very reverse of that
vile condition known as mania potu
Well-learned Frenchmen and Germans
living In this country express satisfaction
with some kinds OF American claret. Amer
lean clarets are kept and served In nearly
all the foreign restaurants OF this city.
SNch piiO hiNu-piiSCu oucS. ITO uOulcoLlC
consumption Of them has enormously In
creased within the past ten years. during
which time their quality has been improved.
Large quantities of them arc now exported
to foreign countries.
As to American champagne: ay. even
champagne! let no Frenchman speak
slightingly OF 1t. while yet he has not
tested its varieties In an enlightened spirit.
without prejudice. and under scientific
methods. We believe there are some kinds
Of American champagne that taste very
much like the lager beer esteemed by walk
ing delegates. and yet other kinds that
give out the peculiar fragrance OF corn
whiskey: but there are also and truly kinds
which may we'll make the bottlers OF Rheims
apprehensive OF the great hereafter. We
can tell story at this point.
Once upon time an American resident of
this city. who owned q cellar OF rare
wines. gave a dinner. at which one Of the
guests was that proud Prussian baron.
that brave American soldier. that accom-
plishcd gentleman and fastidious diner
the late Baron Won STEINwEHR. who had
often In his life enjoyed the viands and
quaffed the wines OF kings and princes
The host OF the evening had purpose IN
asking his guest to mark the wines thai
were brought on the table. sad when Z