Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-12-06

WAISTS.
dotted line shows where to cut out to shorten
waists.
needful, now that the pointed velvet belts
are in STYLE and they are too pretty to be
discarded soon The fullness is all gath
cred ut the bottom outside of the darts, and
at the top there is no neck size cut, and the
length is then carried to the top of the
shoulder and gathered. The front lining
should be sliced off at the neck and hemmed,
and all the rest treated as usual.
The gathers should be sewn in under
belt, and this latter should have the lower
edges turned in aid the skirt gathered
and sewn to that.
Where the skirt is to be quite full, which
il now the style for thin dresses, lining
of silk or sateen, of tbe prevailing color, is
made and finished off and worn under.
The breadths to the outer dress are cut
straight, and the skirt should be quite five
yards around, little longer in the back
and simply hemmed. A pretty finish is to
have ruffle Of the same thin goods. with
still narrower and fuller one under that,
set on the under skirt. Ribbons can be
added If desired.
The neck can be finished in any manner,
but just now berthes of lace or chiffon or
of the dress material are used, and there is
practically no limit to the variety of trim
ming one can use for light dresses. Tulle
and Grape, null and India muslin are all
made about alike. Jabots of lace are
pretty, and are made by gathering lace
very full, giving it shake and then fas-
tening it as it naturally falls. Never try to
make it fall as you like, but fasten it
where it falls itself, or you will lose the
effect.
Festoons and light effects are to be
sought for in thin materials.
The most suitable sleeve for a plump
arm is a simple fall Of lace or the dress ma
terial. For a thin one a long bouffant ef-
feet, open, II liked, at intervals on the upper
part of the arm, fastened with tiny knots
of ribbon, or sleeve can be series of
puffs held In place by bracelet bands Of
ribbon.
Wash gowns should always be made with
a view to their looking as well after wash
ing as before, and to that end the good
dressmaker should aim. Cotton goods,
whether zephyrs or sateens, should be plain
and neat, graceful in model and perfect in
fit. All cottons, except sateens, are pretty
with tucks or bias bands. Sateens require
more elaborate trimming, such as cuffs,
collars, ETC., of velutina or lace.
Silks require different treatment from
any other material, and il it is possible to
avoid 1t hot iron should never be put ON
silk. Black silks, the heavier and richer
kinds, like armure, peau de sole, faille and
grosgrain, should be made as plainly as
possible, their richness showing better
when little trimmed. Black silks, being
alike OH both sides, cut to good advantage,
but as it is apt to fray the seams should be
rather deep. The waists can be cut after
the model waist and any trimming desired
added. Nothing is more suitable or ele-
CANT than beaded passementerie unless it
is little real black thread lace; therefore
avoid cutting up the silk into rufiles and
broken bits. Let the skirt be plain, but
ample. Bind it with velvet. and, If desired
add narrow puff or rose plating around
the bottom. Pay more attention to the fit
and style than trimming The richest
gowns are those made plain, but perfect.
Silk waists should never be quite rs tight
as they could be, for the richer the silk the
worse is the habit it has Of stretching at
the seams. All the light summer silks can
DO made without these precautions but
even they will not stand stretching.
To finish a handsome silk dress properly
requires the utmost attention to details
The waist seams should be bound with
lustring, the ease belt be nice. the loops
lot nhnBinB UP DO oi rlDpon ana every
stitch set with precision. The finish of the
best dresses sent from abroad Is about as
nice on the inside, as ON the outside, and
nearly all very handsome silks are lined
with black or colored glace silk.
The facing should be carefully made as
told before and on the inside of that are
now set two or three narrow pinked ruffies
of glace silk, and beneath this again is
balaysuse Of black lace. When the lady
prefws her dress unlined there is silk
und6fslkirt cut on the model lines and about
four inches shorter than the dress This
has one 10-inch ruflle on the under side,
pinked narrow plated and hemmed, one
ON the edge of the skirt and two to five mar.
row pinked ones on the outside. Sometimes
these are alternately Spanish lace
Velvet is not so much worn for dresses
as 1t was, yet there are many elderly kldies
who like 1t better than anything. The
same rules that hold good in the making
of fine silk gowns hold good In regard TO
velvet. But in making velvet the seams
should be pressed, and 1t is done in this
wise;
A fiat iron, pretty hot, is turned upside
down and held firmly In its place. A damp
towel IL laid over IT, and rs the steam arises
the velvet, seam down and spread open, is
drawn over Ii, and Is pressed so that the
seam Is not visible. This is also good where
the nap Is pressed down, or TO make over
MD yoIVaf liEa maui OIIUE III ADpEn