The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1892-05-20

he did, andi alive besides. For as l de-
scended into the little vine-hung inn
yard, noticed with pain that the coffee
room maid was gathering together, as if
from hasty order, the remnants of some
other travellers recent meal, one who
probably had luggage if no great rel
atives; and as l passed out into the
pleasant streets of the leafy old city
was sorely haunted by the reflective
query, had that landlord known of the
prelate and of the titled folk over in
Shropshire and Wales, he would not
have let me lodge at the little inn at all.
In every other English cathedral town
l have visited, have always found
"High Street" the principal thorough
fare into which all others lead, and from
which some picturesque wand OF court
brings you direct to the cathedral close
1t is different in Gloucester. There was
once famous cross at the very centre
of the city. The two main streets of
the town intersect each other here. One
running north and south, is Northgate
and SOuthgate to and from the place still
called 'the Cross The other is East
gate and Westgate to and from the same
spot.
All that which is picturesque and
charming from its antiquity, and that is
much in Gloucester, will be found with
in distance of 500 yards from the Cross,
upon these intersecting thoroughfares,
or in the sleepy old courts leading into
them, always increasing in number and
interest as you approach the Cross. In
''the Rows" of Chester will undoubtedly
be found the greatest number of oddly
constructed, half-timbered old Eliza
bethan houses of any provincial city of
England.
But here in Gloucester are certainly
more and more winsome individual in
stances. At the corner of Northgate
street and Shakespeare Row, where B.
jenkins, "Soles and Heels Gents shoes
for two and sixpence, and Ladies' at one
and nine" and is also Barber and
Naturalist" who, with his "human
warriors" reminds you strikingly of ''Mr.
Menus in Mutual Friend, is quainter
structure than ever Dickens painted
A little further up the same street. at
No. 1O2, is huge old building, now
transformed into foundry, where Sir
William Gladstone, father of the present
Liberal leader, formerly carried on a
banking business; and five pound note
of his issue may still be seen in the
Gloucester museum. Just opposite is
the most characteristic old inn, entered
through huge arcade, l have yet found
in England. 1t is called New Inn, though
very old 1t was built TO accommodate
the pilgrims to the tomb of Edward H.,
under the abbacy of Thomas Seabroke
in 154l. 1t is 45l years old and abso-
lutely intact.
In Westgate street almost opposite
where you enter the little court leading
to the cathedral, is another arrange old
inn, not so large as New Inn, but even
more fantastic and charming. Never
elsewhere was seen such q radiant
tumble of odd corners, little arches,
protruding upper stories, peep-holes of
windows, gables, offices, "ostries," tap
rooms, and wealth of foliage and club
by checked bar maids to heighten the
mysteries, cheer and charm of this typi-
cal old inn.
Most of the shops are entered by
steps below the street. One, two, three
and four century old buildings bulge and
protrude above them. Nearly all the
structures in districts previously re-
ferred to have second stories which pro-
iect from one to three feet beyond the
first, with curious old carved brackets.
where they stand at street corners, and
more than half have third and fourth
stories projecting in the same manner
All have strange, indescribably odd
windows, tiny PANIED, little, big, broad,
narrow, long, short, round and square,
with lead-cased lintels; and they furnish
the quaintest collection of gables ever be-
held. Perhaps the trimmest and tidiest
of them all is the half timbered home
and printing house of Robert Raikes, at
No. 81, SOuthgate street. The body of
the grand old philanthropist lies in the
Church of St. Mary de Crypt, not fifty
yards away.
Any one visiting the old cathedral
towns of England will be deeply i'm.
pressed by the extreme simplicity and
almost rural character of their inhabit-
ants. Barring the presence of few
modern innovations. one seems to have
come into the atmosphere of an old Eng
lish novel. This is especially true in
Gloucester. All day long the thorough
fares have quiet cOuntry-market color
ing. The actual inhabitants slip about
and attend to their meager affairs with a
smiling and humble tolerative air, as
though they had unconsciously taken on
the manners of the cathedral vergers, and
rather stood aside for the more strapping
and brawny country element.
The latter furnish many pleasant stud
les. LOng-coated, heaYy-jOwled buyers
are here. Frocked, listless, open
mouthed yoemen are here. Your genu-
inc English farmer is here, him with the
stubby, sandy tabs of whiskers upon his
ruddy face, with bushy brows and a firm
set mouth that ever opens and shuts
with a sound as though huge cork had
been pulled. Snappy eyed farmers
wives are here, with ample skirts and
| bonnets, and plumes that would pique
with envy London costermonger belle.
And better than all, here are bevies of
the most radiant-faced English country
side lasses eyes ever beheld.
A more stirring and quite as character,
full scene comes with the evening. The
your-tuned chimes of the sweet cathedral
bells have scarcely ceased when thous'
ands of Gloucester lads and lasses are
upon the streets. The little shops are
ablaze. All the household marketing OF
the day is now being done for the NOR.
row. One can scarcely make progress
on the narrow walks, and the mass over
flows upon and fills the carriage ways
Then it is you will see innocent, una
Dashed, sturdy, love-making at its best
There is no secrecy about it. The
smacking is resonant, the caressing mn
| checked, the embracing muscular and
ardent. 1t increases in activity and uni
versatility until 10 o'clock. Then out &c
the lights and away to their homes whisI
the young folks, their heavy hobs beat
| ING thunderously upon the resoundinC