Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1892-03-10
NEW DESIGNS IN DRESS.
Fashion Is Racking It's Brain for New


tasnlon Is hacking It's Brain for New
Ideas.
More than at any previous time,
fashion explores the domain of fantasy
In search of new ideas in dress Cut
and decoration, color and design of ma
terial-all are made the subject of
study. The variety of new silks is
truly amazing. Some fairly delicious
effects are seen in old-time designs on
black grounds, these being one of the
successes of the season-light stripes,
or floral and other designs in several
delicate tints, on black. Indeed, plain
stuffs appear to be given over to I'M
pretending toilettess Even plush is
no longer plain, but is covered with de-
signs in color. Then there are the
magnificent lampas, brocaded with
flowers interviewer with gold or silver,
or entirely in gold or silver. Even
modest petticoat silks are no longer
plain, but must be shot in
two colors with changing lights
of both, in fine colored
stripes on white ground; or,
preferably, a cream or straw-colored
line de sole trim these petticoats in col
oIS repeat lIlOSc ol Tile stripes,
thus there are sometimes four or five
frills, each of different color
The silks with colored designs on
black grounds are used by couturieres
for genre or picture" toilettes. The
skirt is cut gored, almost close fitting
on the hips, enlarging at the bottom.
and spreading into a train, which may
be more or less long. The corsage is
plain, with a deep girdle, and sleeves
not high, but full, and running into
deep cuffs SO tight that they require to
be unbuttoned for the hand to pass
through.
Similar in idea, though not in design,
are the medieval gowns for young Ia
dies, copied from the costume of Mar
guerite in Faust, which are made of
light-tinted woolens, notably white.
and chiefly of vigogne or camers-hair,
which, in my opinion, is gradually being
substituted for cloth. These gowns
have a relief of contrasting velvet. A
feature of young ladies' dresses is the
false berthas, a dropping trimming
placed about the corsage where a bertha
would be on a decollete corsage; some
times the corsage is plain from the
waist up to the bertha, and full above.
Plated ribbon or passementerie is used
for this trimming; but more than
either, fringe-for fringe is reappear-
ing, and is frequently used in two or
three rows around the bottom of skirts,
as ruffies would be.
But the trimming of all trimmings
this winter is fur, which is used in all
colors and all widths, sometimes so mar.
H. f,-sr
as wide as hem around the bottom of
skirts. Fur-trimmed wraps are a mat
ter of course, but this year skirts,
corsages and hats are alike freely trim
med with fur. A simple black velvet
capote is wonderfully transformed by a
narrow band of fur underneath its
edge. A narrow band of fur frames the
yoke, which still forms part of many
corsages, and edges the sleeves and
skirt
There is scarcely a winter costume
into which velvet does not enter to some
extent. Besides entire gowns of velvet,
corsages of gowns are made Of velvet,
or only the sleeves are of velvet, or
there are deep cuffs, high collar COM
ing down in a point at the throat, and
skirt revers-all of velvet. The richness
of ornament prevailing at present has
never yet been equaled. Fancy, if you
can, what l have lately seen. train
composed of peacock feathers on
white tulle dress embroidered with the
most exquisite butterflies. But fancy
reigns supreme, and especially over ball
toilets Coat bodices of velvet in Louis
XIV. style, with decollete vest of SUI
perb metallic brocade, are worn over
skirts of tulle, gauze, crepe or crepe de
Chine of the lighter tints. One model of
light cloud gray tulle has coat of anne
thyst velvet with a vest of mauve lampas
brocaded in silver. \ skirt of dying
rose gauze is accompanied by coat of
spring green velvet, with vest of rose
lampas embroidered in gold. n model
now in process of making, of rich Nile
green brocart brocaded with white
front of the skirt; the corsage is in the
form of a decollete JAG ket with a band
of sable around the neck and armholes-
A variety of pretty things are done
with striped silks. An example is a
dress of white and orange striped MORE
with which orange velvet is used. Ike
skirt front is of the MORE, with
the stripes meeting in VS. down the
middle: the sides and train are of vel
vet. The corsage is a corselet of bias
stripes with half-open drapery of
white lace above; on this drapery are
short rounded Spanish jacket fronts of
the MORE. The lace sleeves are very
full, and terminate just above the ell