New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-09-19
A M'KINLEY INDUSTRY.
THE COTTON CHENILLE TRADE.
A REMARKABLE INCREASE OF HOME PRODUCTION
AND VERY GREAT REDUCTION
PRICE.
fyRoM A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRIBUNEl


OF PRICE.
fFRoM SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRIBuNE.l
Philadelphia, Sept little most popu-
lar fabric used for decorative puf-
noses in almost every American house
hold is cotton chenille. AS its name indicates 1t
is made in imitation of the soft. fluffy. varie-
gated caterpillar and the single strands closely
resemble that rather loathsome grub. But the
combinations OF these strands, when woven to-
gether, form designs of great artistic merit. In
fact the process of weaving has attained to
such perfection that the tapestries Of the Gobelin
and other kinds may be easily reproduced But
unlike these medieval tapestries, which have
been made almost priceless by age, the chenille
fabrics be sold at very low prices. They
are made entirely from cotton, but when COM
plcted they have soft and silky finish. which, in
q measure, DISCUSSES the true texture of the
goods. Chenille is at present used for curtains
and table covers. Innumerable designs are made
every year, and it is seldom that one design has
less than thirty colors, and often the pattern con-
tains fifty or sixty. The process of making rather
crudely described is to take the original pattern
which is drawn in water colOrs paper and cut
it into strips of about half inch in width
The weaver then takes these strips and repro
produces the cOlOrs in cotton yarns When 1t is
finished the strips look like oldtime rag-carpet
machine is then used to cut the solid piece
into strips again They are then woven together on
Jacquard looms. and the curtain comes out the
second time complete in design. The warp is
all of black cotton, and the filing is made up
of the differentcolored cotton strips. This process
Of weaving reproduces the design on both sides,
and is entirely different from the hand weaving of
tapestries, machine woven carpets. in those
fabrics, a color that is not essential to design
is sunk, and gives TO the back an Informed
appearance.
The making of chenille curtains and table covers
Is outgrowth of the chenille shawl industry.
which f1Ourshed in Germany, France and Austria
for over century. Besides the factories in Chem
nitz, Elberfeldt and Vienna there were number in
and around Glasgow. For q number of years
chenille cord was also made and used for dress
trimmings. The curtain and table cover branches
did not get their first start until about 1873,
but the demand for fabrics of these kinds rapidly
grew. The manufacture of these goods, how
ever was confined for six or seven years to the
other side of the Atlantic although the market
for them was in this country. European countries.
England in particular, did not take quickly to
the style quality of the goods. The foreign
manufacturers, in fact found no sale for them in
Europe.
About ten years ago one or two American manu-
facturers started in TO compete for the home mar
ket. Under duty of 40 per cent they made
some headway, but it was only in the lower and
cheaper grades that they succeeded. In 1890 the
foreign manufacturers still maintained monopoly
of the higher grades of chenille curtains and
table covers In fact the latter named articles
were not manufactured here at all. The American
manufacturers could not compete on account OF
tie low wages paid by foreign rivals. In Vienna,
where nearly all the table covers We're made. the
wages were very small The importationS in
1890 of curtains and table covers amounted to
more than million dollars. Since the passage
of the Mckinley bin there has been virtual
abandonment of importations OF these goods. The
manufacture Of them has been entirely absorbed
by American companies, who employ between five
and six thousand operatives. The factories have
Increased from comparatively few to about fifteen
The wages are double thAc paid in Scotland, and
treble those paid in Germany and Austria. Inc
amount of money earned depends entirely upon
the skill of the workmen. They are palI Dy lIe
piece and earn anywhere from SIS TO 80 week
This class embraces both mel anu women ~
other departments the women and girls earn from
81 to $40 a week. This industry is almost en-
tircly confined 10 the city of Phlladelpha; al
though new factory las recently started IN West-
chester County, New-York. However, The goods
are principally sold TO the jobbers In W-1orh.
Each factory Has selling agent there.
The popularity OF these goods has increased
the demand. There ore more goods sold now IN n,
one week than there were two years ago ia
az months The factories are running on full
time and orders are received for l,OOo or In4rc
at one time of one particular pattern OF 'a4 he
,loth or curtain II Is estimated that the
volume of trade in this industry, when mas pceh
practically snatchtd from foreign manufacturers,
will reach $1,000, 900 this year. and TINS Is q low
estimate The duty increased from 40 10 %
Nor cent was an n1ucement for other American
manufacturers 10 start in the business. and uic
prices instead of increasing with the duty, nave
actually fallen 40 per cent or nearly 0hc-iiali
what they were before the Mckinley PHI went
into effect If calamity howlers can show mat
the taxpayer's burden has been increased III re-
gard to the buying of these popular articles, they
must be possessed of wonderful reasoning powers.
II does not require massive intellect 70 grasp
the facts. and TO draw the inference that the
Mckinley bill has given to this country, an
entire industry Before that bill was passed. at
least onc-haf or the curtains and all OF me
taLle-covers made from chenille cotton were I'M
ported The popularity Of the gods has increase /,
The demand nearly five times This denahu
NAV not be directly due 10 the Mckinley blIl but
fhe nroduction would have been shared by foreign
manufacturers who depended entirely on the
American trade, if the duties had not been
raised That bill has kept in this country prob
ably $4,000, 900. and has given employment TO
three or four thousand operatives. in addition 10
those already employed here. 1t has lowered
the price of the goods, and has given to Ameri
can manufacturers full control of the home markcs
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STATISTICS OF IMMIGRATION