Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1892-10-20
A LEADER OF FASHION WANTED
No Accepted Authority for
Ladies to Follow.


lldDllllilCilta lEIulidllJ diupACu W tlGll |
several occupations. .........
There is no leader in fashion now. |
The Empress of Germany might set
fashion if she cared to, for the women
Of Berlin are tasteful and know how 10
dress well. Their modistes are excel
lent and their styles are well chosen,
but to make of Berlin real centre of
new fashions it would need woman
holding high position to give them
their first elan. But the Empress of
Germany cares little for personal adorn-
ment.
Nine. Carnot is the only other woman
who could pose as legitimate leader,
but she has not the requisite taste, and
she has other aims in lie.
But France is and always will be the
birthplace Of fashion, for the reason that
the Partisan modistes have an unrivaled
chic and style, and the minutest detail
OF their work is so perfect that one feels
a satisfaction in Paris garment not 10
be found elsewhere.
English styles are VIGOROUSLY tasteless
and gracelGss, with the exception of
their tailoi-made costumes, which are
Incompatible.
There are several French establish
ments that vic with each other in the
beauty and good taste of their confec-
tions, three Of them quite equal and one
really superior to Worth, but each has
his or her own ideal and own speciality,
and hence the diversity in the fashions
of this season.
In some respects the large variety of
styles is an excellent thing. Every lady
can find something TO fit her own style
and to suit her own figure and still be
in the height of fashion, There are en-.
pire gowns for those OF irrcproachable
contour, incroyable for those who like
striking effect, which may at the same
time be made to hide some striking de-
feet. There are draped skirts and four
reaux; there can be trimming of various
kinds, or the skirts CAN be left severely
plain.
But whatever be the style and shape
of garment, its use is marked out for
it in no uncertain manner. A wrapper
can be worn only in the morning in the
strict privacy Of ones own family.
There is no fanciful beribboned morn
ing dress, so called. The wrapper is
laid aside for the demure dark cashmere
gown, or some similar dark goods for
the morning at home. 1t is eXquisitely
neat, and with it is worn coquettish
little apron, as useful as it is gay.
For luncheon, even whea there are
guests, this same gown is suitable. If,
during the afternoon calls are to be
made, or there is shopping to be done,
or bright, brisk walk is to be taken, a
rich dress Of fine wooden material, made
| with not too much trimming, but that
much elegant and snhducd i'll tone and
effect, is the proper thing.
A short wrap, u cape Of beaded cloth
| with fur bordering, or handsome
| jacket, arc all suitable for such require
ments. Later in the season, long cloak
| can be worn, sid richer materials and
| garnements are then ia place. For
oscra or sortie du bal there is no re-
striction as TO the use of the most ex-
travagant display in the way of brocadcs,
| satin Innings, gold and silver embroidery
or costly fur. The box coat is only for
walking, as is also the Russian blouse.
| Nothing can ever make them dreSsy
The wraps above named do not by
any means include all the correct STYLES
| Of to-day. There are tight jackets and
directoire coats, and long velvet, bro
cade and wool wraps and cloaks OF every
conceivable kind. One has but to
choose.
A lady has set aside her day sat home"
She wears an exquisite gown OF nickel
gray faille, cut princess shape, which,
by the way, is quite popular. The front
is very slightly draped, and the skirt
opens at the left side overa plated panel
OF crepe de chine, barred diagonally
with black velvet, with gold spray Of
clover leaf. The sleeves are slashed
with Grape and velvet. Around the waist
is q garncment of stiff gold embroidery
demitrain.
One Of her guests wears q Lincoln
green cloth walking gown, striped with
black, with coat of whipcord, trimmed
with rich beaded and fringed passemen-
tcrie. Her hat is of black velvet,
trimmed with apple green ribbon and
bronze coz plumes. She wears tan
suede gloves, two button, and patent
leather shoes.
The gray faille dress can he worn to a
reception at u friends home, if the
wearcr wils--it is quite smart enough
or to an Informal dinner, for few per
sons feel obliged to wear low bodice
except upon the most formal occasions,
at dinner abroad, and fewer still wear
them NJ home.
a rich reception dress for a middle.
aged lady is made of heliotrope satin
rave, the skirt quite plain, dcmitran,
the corsaee drapeu over 10 the right side,
under u cascade Of velvet and ending
under windmill bows; for Il Younger
wearer the old rose failie, with black
lace drapery extending half around the
skirt on tha right side, finished with
black velvet bows, side drapery and
pulls. On the waist there is 81 simu-
lated Figaro jacket Of lace.
For church tGe lady of to-day can
wear what she likes. She is bound down
NY no Puritnnnlcal rule, but good taste
and sense Of the fitness of things
should suggest that her attire be modest
in make ant sober in color.
That is, always excepting her bonnets.
There is certain latitude permissible
in the matter of bOnnttS. CuiOrs bear.
ing out those found in nature among
the flowers are the proper ones for bon.
nets. Bonnets are but ali uutgrowth OF
the love oil flowers, ms the most print
tive nations have shown in the wearing
Of wrcaths OF blossoms on their heads
Bonnets fDr church and for any public
place where anothrr's comfort OF
pleasure may be interfered with should
, be small, compact and tasteful. Leave
the wide brimmed hats for the stree
and for the carriage A trio OF noves
ties in the way OF sensational bonnet.
show for themselves the correct idea
The top cherub wears a dark blue velye
with Mercury wings; that on the left d
fiat lace over poppy red silk, trimmed
with black velvet, and a rhinestone
buckle holding Il heron aigrette. Tha