Savannah courier. (Savannah, Tenn.) 1885-1979, 1892-09-15
IN WOMAN'S BEHALF.
IN The DRY GOODS TRADE.

The first business woman in tho
United States found employment in the
dry goods trade.
Following the English system, the
American saleswoman had to serve an
apprenticeship of one year, and was
boarded in the family of her employer.
These two customs soon fell into disusc-
The wages of beginner averaged 100
q week, the same MS now, but then
everything was cheaper good board
could be had in New York for Sl.5O n
week for one person, The highest sal
airy paid iirst-elass saleswoinan rarely
exceeded Sl2 week, until the civil war
broke out, then everything took a jump
up.
AS soon as. A. T. Stewart saw that
saleswomen were a success with his
rivals, the lie Boutilliers, who were the
first to employ them, he introduced
women into every possible department
of his establishment. The lead OF the
New York merchants, was quickly fol-
lowed throughout the country.
In the course of an interview recently
with saleswoman now with Broad
way firm, she said:
81 was one of the first women TO be
employed by Stewart, and remained.
with him until his death. He was aware
that English saleswomen are required
to dress in tight-ftting black gowns,
without jewelry or furbelows, but he
did not dare to exact that Americans
should wear livery; nevertheless, it
amounted to that, and this is how he
managed it: lie kept his eye upon us
all the time. If girl wore light col
ored dress, he wouldn't appear to no.
tice it, but would wait until she hap
pened to appear in black dress
Then he would hurry to her, and with
pleasant smile, would say: why,
Miss - how well you look in black!
Quite charming, declare, and take it
as u compliment to myself, for you
know black is my favorite color, above
all for u business woman You may be
sure that that girl never afterward
wore anything but black while in his
service. And as for the jcwclry! there
were, of course, no restrictions upon
our wearing it, bnt he was as clever in
letting us know his ideas upon our
swearing it as what was his 'fayorite
color II girl wore bit OF
jcweliy,1 brcastpin or q bracelet,
his eye would be sure to fasten upon 1t
in the course of the day, and he
would say to her--always with a smile
and pleasantly, 4 see you are wearing
very pretty brooch, but don't you
think that jewelry is rather matronly
for youth and good looks like yours?
Mr. Stewart had pronounced ideas about
colors and their appropriateness, not
only to the complexion, but to the age
of women. If a new girl, not knowing
his tastes, appeared some warm day in
pink dress, he would take occasion to
pass her counter and mutter to himself
out loud enough for her to hear: Pink,
Ell! pink! Pink's for youth, little girls
and extreme first youth. No woman
over sixteen should wear pink kills
the complexion--pinb! Bah!' He was
sly old fox was Stewart, and inithi:
adroit way he managed that we should
wear regulation costume of black
with a simple bow of ribbon at the
throat for sole, ornament" Stewart
was the first merchant to introduce
dressmaking and ready-made clothes
into dry goods store in this country
This occurred many years after the adj
vent of saleswomcn. His first modists
was a Miss IIudnutt, whom he sent
twice year to Paris and London fol
fashions. TO test their business capac
tiles. Stewart tried women in every
branch of his business. He was The
first to send them out as drummers-
silk drummers, but they were not sue
cess with him.
One of this great merchants peculiar
tiles was that he never tried persons
twice in the same line after failure; l
was ''once and out" with him. Sine,
his time, however, women have beer
successful as drummers. One, wei
known throughout the. country, take
orders for cloaks for New'Yorll house
receiving $50 week, with expense
and commission upon sales.
Merchants were slow in trusting
women to purchase for them, but upol
trial it was found that from monetar
point of view they could buy as well q
men, and that their taste was better i
selecting goods for their own sex, S
that now every dry goods store of i'm
portance in the metropolis employs on
female foreign buyer, and sometime
there are three or four on the pay ro
of one establishment. The position c
buyer is, perhaps, the most enyiable c
all in this business. Foreign buyer
frequently make two trips a year t
Europe, with all expenses and salar
of S., 900. When not travelling the buy
trs take charge of the imported good
upon the premises.
In modern dry goods stores the mos
singular and least known of the wome
employees is the "sccret shopper" Sh
is usually lady in private life who Ia
need of little extra pocket money. 81
is popularity supposed to be only an il
vcterate shopper; that she is paid fc
the pleasurablc pastime of trottin
from store to store is often secrt
even to her own family. The ''secrt
shopper" must be .ladylike in name
and we'll dressed. Her business is
go. from one shop to another and priC
and buy special lines of goods.
these days of fierce competition
is absolutely necessary for each stor
keeper to know what his rivals have
offer.
The "secret shopper" must find Tn
cut and report. Her salary rang
from IS to SIS week, the time
service being from three to five hours
day. ~
} She must have a pleasing addres
with tact enough to persuade the sale
man or woman to drag the choices
newest articles from their hiding place
Her business must not become know
for were her identify SUSPECTED her ser