The World. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1891-1896, 1892-09-28
KILLED BY YHE TARIFF,
Where Business onss was Large 10 d Now
Rapldiy raining Away-whiis Foreign
HAT Inau-,rlss Are Ina Proportionatsly
Rapid Increase.

A special from Orange, N. j. says: In
the Oranges and vicinity there ara over
thirty hat factories, and . large proper
tion OF the mechanics OF this city and
surrounding townships depends entirely
for livelihood upon the different
branches OF the manufacture Of soft fur
hats.
For years this business has been recog-
nlzsd as the back bone OF Oranges pros
perity, and the large number Of neat and
com ortabie homes OF the mechanics, and
the thriving condition of all trades in
the city in the past have been directly
due to the prosperity Of this one indus
try
Since the introduction of higher tariff
under the Mckinley act, however. this
has All been changed, and the thirty fac
tories or more in this district have not,
for nearly two years, had enough work to
keep in employment one-fifth OF the
5000 men and women who have depend
ed upon the hat shops for their liveli-
hood.
The present season especially is the
duilest which has ever been known in
the hat industry, and this despite the
agricultural prosperity.
1t 10 to the farmers that the majority
Of the hats made in Oregon are shipped,
or were shipped, in former years. This
year the factory drummers report that
the Western farm rs are wearing import
ed hats.
Under the working Of the Mckinley
law the foreign hat manufacturer trade
h increasing, and the home industry,
taxed exorbitantly on the raw materials
imported for hat manufacture, II decreas-
ing and dying ont. Men who formerly
were able to earn excellent wages at dif-
fersnt branches of hatmaking have In
many instances been Obliged to engage
in other pursuits to make Q living for
their families.
The reports of the Orange Hat Finish
ers' Association show that from May to
November, 1891, $50 men In this one
branch Of the industry left the business
because Of the difficulty Of finding em-
ployment at their trade.
, Many OF the proprietors Of the largest
factories In the Orange district are Demo-
Gratis, Is are . majority Of the hands, and
they are loud in their denunciation Of
the tariff bill and an administration
which has 90 nearly killed their business.
Under the existence Of the present tariff
laws American hatters have gone abroad
with American machinery and introduced
Il together with American methods OF
making hats, and the product 10 handled
By the American jobber at q lower rate
than the raw material and labor can BE-
procured for In this country.
The Mckinley act made the duty ON
manufactured hats IS per cent, and on
the component articles used in their
manufacture the duties are: On furs for
hatters, use, 20 per cent, and ON silk and
satin linings. sweatbands, silk trim
mings, etc, the duty ranges from 80 to 90
per cent.
The foreign manufacturer pays but IS
per cent ON his manufactured hats in
bringing them to America ready to place
On the market, whereas the American
manufacturer now pays 90 per cent on his
material, and must, after paying this
duty on necessarily imported article,
pay the cost Of labor entailed in manu-
iacture In his factory.
The duty on sweat feathers, cut fur,
and trimmings was increased by the Nc
Kinley bill with the intention OF sstab-
fishing factories for the manufacture OF
these goods in this country. Two or
three such factories have been established,
out their products are inferior, and have
only succeeded in rectifying to an insig-
lificant degree the disadvantages under
which the American halter has been
placed.
Perhaps in no part Of the country have
Inc direct results OF this law, which pro-
aibits the American workingman from
,ntering into successful competition
With the foreign manufacturer, been felt
IS acutely as in Orange.
Out OF about three thousand mechanics
here are barely thousand who have
employment, and there IL no prospect OF
.nything better in store for them in the
lear future. In few hat shops owned
~ Republicans cheap grade OF hat is
being turned out in quantities of about
,ne-third the capacity Of the factory
when on full time.
The wages, have been so reduced during
The last year thar with some the question
II how to live IL only solved from day to
lay. In localities where two years ago
he houses were occupied by a thrifty
.lass Of mechanics ITO Ietn signs now
itare one In the face in all directions.