davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
FASHIONS IN NOVEMBER.
What the Early Winter Promises
in the Way OF Gauds and
Gowns.
The Empire Dress Still Extending
It's Sway and Enlarging It's
Popularity.
Frochs at The Horse Show-Furs. Laces
and Br0cades- Dance Gowns for
Thanksgiving Parties.
Written for THE HELENA INDEPENDENT I

Written for THE HELENA INDEPENDENT
1NEW YORK, NOV. i5.-pEOPLE
I"V talk much about fashions cycles and
* the periodicity of styles, but it APP
pears to me that fashions are comet
like. They move in irregular and uncef-
tain orbits. The empire dress was with us
80 recently rhat one would not have ex-
pected it for a considerable time again; but
it has bobbed up gerenely and 80 insistent-
lv that a fortnight ago | was talking about
it and making pictures of it, and am now
compelled to continue the conversation.
AS the season advances the shortwaisted
dress that 30 few people really like, and yet
that now, as before, finds ways and means
to compel it's acceptance, not only refuses
all offers of compromise, but adopts de-
vices to enhance and emphasize its short
waistedness. One of these devices is n deep
founce starting from unde the arms whore
the waist ends, and falling in very full
folds to the hips, perhaps, or below. The
richest and most delicate of lace is usually
the ~f1ounce material, but this does not hin
der the fashion from proving in the major
ity of instances a clumsy one.
Another pet notion of the empire dress is
to cover itself with a jacket, oftenest q
short one, hardly coming below the bosom
and serving no apparent purpose but to
mark ont more strongly the starting place
of a loose gauzy tunic that envelops the
closer fitting underdress that falls to the
feet or even sweeps the floor.
The most pronounced of all tie empire
modes is that which combines with the
short waist or no waist the complexity of
vatican folds in front, these taking a sheer
descent from the veriest apology for a yoke
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

ton. The frock was a soft blush gray
long..napped wool, with a seamless back
and a loose front. caught up and fastened
on one side. Ostrich feather ruches
jacket pieces of black velvet. The skirt
was q short one witt a velvet band at the
bottom. Over the dress was worn a black
cape with velvet puffs at the armholes.
At n pretty reception given in Mrs. Glove,
lands honor the other day a number of
toilets were noted which we're probably as
typical as any yet seen of the early winter
styles. A tan brown silk stood out promi-
nent in recollection. 1t had a full bodice
with Il pointed yoke trimmed with golden
bro wn velvet and from the point dropped a
gathered length of silk which fell over the
deep velvet girdle. The skirt WAS plain
but mad nm uncommonly pretty sweep and
swing to it. A brown velvet toque was its
millinery finish. with sweeping brown
plumes.
Mrs. William G. Whitney wore a simple
costume, but one that should not be al
lowed to fall into oblivion. 1t was a dusky
green cloth frock with hints of brown in its
shadows. Tine skirt had a deep band of ga.
| bic fur trimming, and the bodice had full
revers. The sleeves had fur cuffs and the
hat that lent point and finish WAS of black
velvet with sweeping piumes. 1T is nesdful
to add, perhaps, that Mrs. Whitney was in
promenade dress and joined the little party
1OT HVe minutes only.
The most beautiful thing the writer has
to show are the brocades. The richest are
furs. The most novel a'e the cobwet
gauzes. 1t follows as a matter of course
that brocade, fur and gauze are combined
in a good many of the Thanksgiving dance
gowns. A somewhat unusual frock that was
put before me in a modiste's parlor yester
day was a white silk figured with chrysan.
themums in silver. The huge flowers
sprang from long stalks that lost them
selves in embroidered lisse tiouuces falling
over the skirt at the foot, The low rounC
bodice had one enormous silver chrysan'
themum at the left side, and a lisse hounc.
dropped about the shoulders. A watteal
plat sprang from above the Rirdle at tn,
back and was edged with sable fur where
it mingled with the train. The short sleeves
were fur-edged, but the odd thing about
the costume was the sable that borderec
the tiny silver satin slippers.
Another unique dancing dress just fin
ished is Il princess slip of pale creamy vel
low %tatfeta. Over this is a loose waving
drapery of lace falling to the feet withou
confinement. There is a quaint little bod.
ice jacket of gold and rose pink embroidery
very short, aud with tasseled ornaments il
front and behind.
There's not so very much else that presse
to be said except that one of the dainties
debutante's frocks vet designed is a pinl
chiffon slip embroidered with delicate ferl
fronds in pale green. The full bodice is o
chiffon banded with velvet. The skirt ha
a broad velvet band at the bottom. Tn
chiffon sleeves are a succession of nuffs di
vided by velvet bands. ELLEN OSBORN.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
THAT LITTLE SMITH Girl,
BY NORA PERRY.


exultantly, finging up his cap with a
ohuckle of delighted laughter.
And you're not, you're not the daughter
of that dreadful Smithson?" burst forth
Tilly in a little transports of happy relief.
That dreadful smithson. who is he, and
who said l was his daughterr"
"She said it, roared Will, darling a
furious look ut Agnes, "and she cooked it
all out of this" suddenly pulling tho paper
from his pocket.
"Give it to me!'' cried Agnes breathlessly.
%springing forward to snatch the paper from
his hand.
mo no, you wanted me to give it to Miss
Smith n minute ago. and now Pll give IL to
Miss Pelham, and let her see what yon've
wanted to circulate about the house," an
swered Will.
cliff l happened to notice it before
the rest of you-and-and thought how 1t
might be this Miss Smith"
'How it must be! you insisted!" broke in
Will.
with all that about tho change OF name
and the age of the girl, and-nnd-the South
America ! saw on the blotting pad and
the South American Dress went on Agnes
incoherently-'if | happened to be before
you. you thought afterwsrd, know you
did, that it might be, and"
with q difference. with a difference!''
suddenly rang out Peggy Pelham's clear
young voice in tones OF indignation. She
n00 Teau TIC newspaper slip, ana tnere 6ne
stood. scorn and indignation in her face as
we'll as in her voice.
Eyes, with a difference" she went ON
vehemently, "if they thought it might be.
after you had paraded the thing before
them, you" with a renewed look of
scorn, Thought it must be. because you
wanted it to be, because you had got te
hating me. Oh, l can see it all now-svery-
thing. everything. How you patched
things together. even to that blottinR pad
which had used after directing my letter
TO my uncle, Berkeley Pelham, who lives il
Brazil. Oh, to think of such prytng and
peerinR with a shudder), and to think OF
such enmity. anyway. all for nothing. Pvt
heard of such enmity, but ] never believed
in it, for | never met it before. And all
this time there was lilly Morris-oh, lilly
Cwhirling rapidly about). what a dear
brave. generous. faithful little thing you've
been (the ringing voice faltering). for il
spite of-even this-this dreadful Smith
son. you stuck to me and tried to shield
me-"
"Oh, 1 knew, and go did grandmother,
that you were innocent, whatever nigh
just possibly have happened Toto"
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
WHY MAN WEARS A HAT.
The First Step in Civilization and the
First Article of Dress.

The First Step in Civilization and the
First Article of Dress.
Perhaps no article of clothing has been
more freely criticised in respect to its
utility than that which photographers de-
scribe as "a covering of the head" says the
London Lancet. Some, instructed by the
example of savage races and of others
widely different III various ways. among
them the leaders of feminine fashion.
whose crowns of RoSsamer may practically
be disregarded. would have it that the hat
less condition is tho most characteristic of
mankind. Against their opinion we lind
arrayed the combined force of civilized
usage in every climate.
From pole to pole we find that man, If he
dresses ut all, dresses his head. Even if
bootless and g~uiltless of such minor tribes
as waistcont and collar, he covers his head
with some form of clothing. Nay. the
very savage. though he may know nothing
of silk or felt, will often so decorate his
vortex with fenthots or 30 weave his own
natural wool that not even the conventional
European cylinder could protect 1t more
e~ffectually. Surely there must be reason
i'll all this.
There Is II clearly conscious need which
exists not merely in the Imagination, 1t is
thus practically admitted that though the
head, like any othes part of the body, may.
after having suffered tho nttritlon of atnios-
pheric variations. become Injured to their
action. it still loses somewhat IN the pro-
cess. In tho first place it is evident that IN
this conflict only the httest can
hope 80 survive. Civilized man will
not endanger his chance of survival
bv risking the experiment. Further, he
finds that tho inferior animals thus ex-
posed undergo external changes which do
not often, If ever, tend in the direction of
refinement, end inatinotively he shuns the
possible return of coarsenesa md barbar-
ism. lie also recognizes the fact that,
given Il wholesome custom i'll head clothing,
the consequent effect will be as healthy as
it IN becoming.
Foremost among the sanitary principles
which ought to cont oil usage IN this matter
are two-the avoidance of any but the
lightest pressure and the admission through
the texture worn or by special apertures of
efficient air for 90 ventilation of the
head. Ii these elementary considerations
he duly regarded and sufficient protection
DO provided against changes of weather we
shall ind man the better, not the worse. for
wearing his covering for the head"
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

and in all their undress looseness and full
ness parading themselves as evening frooks,
and scorning any proposition to relegate
them to the proper domains of neglige.
1t ia only in rare instances that there is
ANYTHING particularly pretty about the re-
vived empire gowns, but they are serving a
useful purpose; they divert mantua making
attention from the long suffering sleeve.
The stream of inventive energy begins to
flow in other directions. Here's a bit of
advice if you haven't yet your winter gown:
You have time to finish wearing out your
old frooks with huge sleeve cuffs, but You
don't want any new ones made
that way. The doom of the high
shoulder is sealed. The newest dresses
of the best makers have big
and comical caps that might better be
called capes and that remind people who
nave studied natural history of the gro
tesque and distorted shapes that wind up
the series of any one type of life when it
has finished its development and gotten
into the death struggle of its 'old age
FORMS" The sleeve has gone as far as it
can in certain directions. and it will take a
new departure before a great while; a de-
parture that presupposes a sloping and not
a square shoulder.
10 pass from the abstract to the concrete.
there has been a great display of furs this
week at the horse show. In spite of the
fact that our winters grow progressively
and distressingly milder, the society danes
and damssln were out with sable borders a
foot or two feet deep weighing and warm
ing the skirts of their tailor gowns. |
mind me of ono young woman who wore q
noticeable dress Of dull red cloth covered
with the fox fur almost mp to the
knees. Fox fur, you know, is long and
hairy and the effect of it used in
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

MIR. %Smithson-" and Peggy began to
laugh. But the laugh ended in something
like a sol, and she hur. iedly hid her face
upon Tilly's shoulder. When an instant
later she looked up, it was to see that Agnes
had disappeared.
Eyes, tho enemy.has fed" said Tom Ray
mond. "The minute you dropped your
eyes she was off. We might have stopped
left of her. Oh. oh. oh, isn't she finished
off beautifully, thought" and Tom gave
way at last to the hilarlty he had SO long
manfully repressed.
FINISHED off! 1 should say So" cried
Will, joining in Toms laughter.
And to think that YOU were a Pelham
one of Agnes wonderful Pslhams all the
time" put in lilly, still with an air OF be-
wilderment.
And am now" laughed Peggy. "Oh,
Tllly. you are such a DEAR
"One OF Agnes wonderful Pelhams!'
shouted Tom. Guess she won't be in a
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

some of the wild thoughts that leaped up
out of the bitter fountain i'll Agnes dis
torted mind at that instant. and her voice
was sharper than ever as she again said:
Il want my property-the paper l gave
you to keep for me-"
Will had risen to his feet and
yerv coolly: II can't give it to you."
"What do you mean-have yon lost itY'
mo, but l cant give it to you."
"Haye you rend it?"
it to you. l know if l should you would"
Probably give it to Miss ~mithson,"
cried Agnes. shrilly. miss Smithson (go-
ing toward Peggy. L"
'Oh. Peggy, Peggy, come with me-.
We're all your Observation-Disclosures and !
and Will and Tom; and We all know how
sweet and innocent you are. oh, Peggy.
come, come, and don't listen to her" burst
forth lilly in an agony of pity and horror
as she put an arm around Peggy to draw
her away.
But Peggy was not to be drawn away.
What in the world ia the matter? What
is it all about? What do you mean, lilly,
dear. by innocent2 What has she (Rlanc-
ing at Alice disdainfully) been getting up
against me?"
"Oh. Peggy. Peggy. don't" moaned lilly.
well, this is rich" laughed Agnes jeer-
ingly. Nobody has been getting up any
thing against you, Miss Smithson."
what do you mean by calling me Miss
smithson. That isn't my NAME"
"Oh, isn't it?" derisively. How long
since did you changed it for Smith,"
II have never changed it for Smith"
'Oh. / believe that Miss Smith is down
on the hotel register, and you answer tic
that name"
II beg your PARDON said Peggy, looking
at Agnes with great scorn. Mis- smith
and neice are down on the register. 1t was
the clerk who registered US in that way, and
MI of you seemed to take it for granted that
nv name must be Smith also. Perhaps ]
ought to have corrected the mistake al
once, but after | overheard that converse
ton on the piazza, and-saw somebody eX-
nmining the register n few minutes later
(glunoing away from Agnes with n smile at
Will, who looked rather sheepish )-after
that / thought I'd let the mistake go until
the rest of the family arrived, it was 80
amusing"
oh" retorted Agnes, ''this all sounds
very straight and pretty, but / dare say
you've got used to telling such stories. Per
haps You'll tell US now what name you do
call your own, and il it is by that those
South American friends you write to nre
known."
''Perhaps Mr.. Tom Raymond will tell
YOU answered Peggy, quickly. 1--WE
thought for some time that he might De one
of the Tennis club that came out TO Fair
Wow at my brothers. invitation last sum
NOR and / thought he suspected who | WAS,
and-and wouldn't tell because he saw just
as 4 did, what fun the mistake was. But
now, If he will, no can introduce me-to my
friends. lilly and Will Wentworth. as"
Miss Pelham! Miss Margaret Pelham
shouted Tom before Peggy could go any
further.
"Pelham" cried Tillv, in a dazed way.
pelham" repeated Will.
lISesEss Pelhaml Polhnm" exclaimed Tom
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
Miss Terry's Chinese AdmIrer.

Henry Irving tells an interesting story in
which Terry and q Chinese minister figure.
The play was Hamlet" and Ophelia Miss
Terry was in the midst of her mad scene.
Irving sat on a little woaden seat which had
been cut into tho proscenium wall, and
which afforded an excellent view of the
stage from behind. Beside the great actor
sat the Chinese minister, who had come be-
hind the scenes 60 pay his respects.
suddenly l missed my Celestial friend. y
SAID irving. Going in search of hlm |
found him just walking onto the stage. The
acting of Miss Terry had SO affected him
that he WAS burning to congratulate her ON
the spot. l was just in the nick of time to
hold him back; another hnlf instant and
he would have made his frat appearance"
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
VII.
THE PELHAMS ARRIVE.


THE Ethan ARRIVE.
"ILLY FORGOT HER TEARS AS
Ao she watched Wits face. He read it
wv twice. At first there was an entire
lack of comprehension. At the second
reading a look of shocked understanding.
and. bringing his fist down upon his knee.
he exclaimed: sand Agnes was going to
fling this bombshell straight at that poor
thingp'
Then lilly knew hat Will was on the
right side; that he pitied Peggy, and that
he would agree with all that grandmother
had said about her and her innocence and
ignorance of real facts. This estimate of
Master Willis sympathy was not a mis-
taken one. He not only agreed with grand
mother about Peggy's innocence and ignor-
Rnce. but in grandmother's kind conclusion
THAT they must be good to her."
But what did you mean about Tom
what has he one to make you think 80
much better of him 2" Will asked curiously.
While lilly was enlightening him upon
this point Toms voice was heard SAYING:
"Oh, here they are" and Tom himself came
himself came round the dump of shelter
ing bushes. accompanied by Peggy. And
"o N0 bCOh Soo CNOAy Whc1C,
said Peggy; we've just had another of the
Strauss waltzes. and the next thing ia the
~lancers and we van you and lilly"
Twill Wentworth, 1 want my property, if
you please; that paper l gave you to keep
for me-" n very different voice-R high
sharp voice that the whole foul recognized
at once, interrupted here.
Tilly started and turned pale.
Don't be frightened. lilly. she shan't
have It," whispered Will. Agnes flushed
resentfully as she came forward and saw
the confidential friendliness of the little
group. For that girl she had been disrs-
garded and neglected like this! Not a mo.
ment longer would she bear such insults.
1t was all nonsense-all that stuff about be-
ing prosecuted for showing up facts; she
would be stopped by that foolishness no
longer. She would first take her stand
boldly and let everybody know what a
fraud this Miss Smith was. These were
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

such n combination and in such quantities
was most peculiar. Tho Russian blouse of
this interesting individuals costume was of
da k green velvet, edged with fur and heitad
with u silver eirale. Over this came = rod
cloth jacket, short bohind. pointed in { ront
and turned back with revers fastened with
silver buttons. She had an enormous bunch
of brownish red and pure white ohrtsanthe-
muma at hor belt and wore u mite of II
black velvet toque trimmed with fox fur
md loops of red velvet.
II was ut the ho no show that New York
women had their first chance of specializing
intelligently upon the effect of the new liar
ing skirt that is being worn hero by one.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

Two tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons
of -four. two tablespoons of sugar. ono cup
of milk, four eggs. Putthe milk on to boN.
Rub the butter and tlour together, add the
boiling milk. stir over the fire Tor ten minute.
Beat tho yoiks and sugar together, add them
to the milk and turn the mixture out to
cool. When cool. beat the whites to n stitf
froth and add hem to the mixture, turn in
n creased baking dish md bake in n quick
oven (40O degrees Fahrenheit) for twenty
minutes. Servo Immediately with creamy
sauce.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20

hurry to set ny a claim to 'em now" and
Tom burst out again in wild chuokles of
hilnrity.
And / never saw her. and / don't believe
ahe ever met one of ia before" cried
Peggy.
''sne told Amy that she didn't know tho
Pelhams yet, but that her Aunt Ann did,
and her aunt was coming next month and
would introduce her to them when they ar
rived" said lilly with a demure smile.
well, she'll probably like my sister Isa-
bells skye terrier, with it's ine name of
Prince, much better than she does my poor
plebian doRgie. with its vulgar name of
Pete" remarked Peggy. her eyes twinkIing
with fun
ooh, Peggy, 10 think of your hearing all
that .alk about the dog and everything"
And everything, l should say so!' cried
Will. starting mp and looking rather red az
he recalled his own words.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-11-20
VIVA, j.. BOY Knows About Girls.

A small boy in a Brooklyn grammar
school has furnished the latest information
about girls in a recent compositions: "8iria
il pretty and afraid of guns They wear
toe rubbers and look at the clouds and say,
U. how periiekly lovely"
La correspondencia de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 1890-1943, 1892-04-28
Noticias de Ia Capital

Llama Ia atenci6n dc los yiajeros del ferro.
carril, que al detenerse el tren frente las es
taciones del traneito. quede el coche dc terce-
IA, que va Embellishments despu6s de la To-
comOtora, eDfrente de las dichas estaciones y
reirado 81 coche- de segunda y mas adm el de
primera. Convendrfa que ell de ssgunda que
dase frente 8 Ia estaoi6n para que ell de I. 3a
Sc mantuvieran equidistantes Cuando llueve
Sc notarian las ventajas de esta pequefls modi
ticaci6n.
~ Nuestro amigo el doctor Coll ha regresado
de Arecibo, A. donde fu6 Ilamado para asist'r en-
consulta Ia esposa del distinguido abogado
amigo mn estro don Jose de Diego, cuya sonora
ha quedado fuera de peljgro de la enfermedad
que sufris. Felicitanos los esposos de Diego
y nuestro buen amigo 81 doctor Coll. -
La correspondencia de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 1890-1943, 1892-04-28

falgOs. 81 nOsOtrOs con textos fehacientes de-
mOstr8mos que eliRituaI del Cab... Kadosk no
apadrina el asesinato; que la MosOneria no ha
jurado oposici6n . los reyes, puesto que reyes
han pertenecido y pertenecen 4 ella y no So
comprende que los misn1os interesados fueran
& meterse on Ia boca del lobe; 81 con el ritual
de Adoption en- todos,eus gradOs probAramos,
como Ia luz, que lei IS de ser immoral, SO trata
de ac0nseiar en- tOdOs sus gradOs, principal
mente en- ell So Ia praotioa de las virtudes; si
hiei6ramos TODD eato la passion que en- ciertas
classes exiEte contra Ia MasOnerla habfa de oon-
tinuar dioiendo pOrque ssi le convene -.M en-
tira mentira, una oOsa es 10 que dioen Otra
10 que hacen No es verdad que este diriaisi
Va nos teneis acOstumbrados s tales argumen
tosy no nos extra1an. Para que, pues, can
SarSe en- oOntestar
d A los masones nos basta con Ia tranquil
dad de nuestras cOnoiencias; con que pertenez-
can Ia Institution hOmbres de las mas ele
vadaS, como de las m is humi'das classes SOciA-
les, los cuales no habisn de mete Sc en- una So
ciedad de asesinos que Sc YEA que las dig
mas damas fe Ia M MAsoneEfa de Adoption van
alf acOmpa nadas de sua espOsOS, los cualeS no
iban llevarlas 8 una escuela de inmOralida1
Con este nos basta, por que ataques in
sensatos absurdos solo puede prestarse ad
quiescencia por los que no tengan sentldo co.
mdn Ell juicio de estos impOrta POGO la Ma
sonerfa. 10 que la importa es el juiciO de los
que estan en- apttud de pensar racionalmente.
estos no han de prestar asentimiento Ia
idea de que una asOciaoi0n que SIC Dasa on ia
moral, sea immoral, nj ensaise ell asesinatc; y &
que una sociedad Que admite en- su senO hom.
bres de todas las relgioEes vaya estar on
contra de los papas. ESQ es el absurdO al ab
surda no s5 conteata.
No nos venqan con ,i'as de textos. porque
81 ESQ fuera p1ueba, no. otros citariamos otr0s
muchos en- que SO habla contra los papas, y no
porQue haya habido quien haya escrito ESQ, va
a darse, nj 10 da nadie como articu de f6.
La masonerfa sc defiende por ST misma y
no necesita acudir ese medic de publicidad
e6pa.o ell articU'ista en- question.
HGrios M0sOnes.