The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-07-30

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sHeiaf Copeg rdsaHe ef nc IatettOeHer
cIRgScrsrER, ESGIAxD, July ls.-one
does not knox hundrcdth part Of Eng
land even after years Of travel among
her historic scenes and about her count
less siirines.
IfeeI this moro and more whom, after
firing Of grand old beaten paths, l stop
aside. but step 1t sometimes seems
and find maze upon maze Of sweet old
hooks, wonderfully wiusome in collec'
tive or individual aspects; and these
could mover be exhausted, if one set out
toexplore for such US these and know
them never so little when found, during
tho natural course Of a lifetime.
II seems to me that tho west Of Eng.
land, say the western Of the midland
counties, furnishes the most extraordin'
airy number OF these half mountain
eeries. You need not go SO far south
81 west as Devon and Somerset, nor
even into Wales, where scenery has
moro tho clements OF wild and savage
efandeur. and where the good folk who
can speak English as well as you car
tssitle tliemselve' in making you believe
they can't speak 1t ut all. and that
Welsh was the language OF Adam and
Eve.
Neither will you have to go so far as
thelake district, which is all subIimity
and hotel aud posting bills: nor to
Northumberland and Durham. yerdure'
less and suggestive OF coali nor again 70
Yorkshire, where the shudderlrg logs
hap'along the gruesome moors.
But hero in the very heart OF Eng;
land, where anybody that has two days
time, though he should have two
months instead and two stout legs, can
come from any great English city almost
as IN holiday stroll, are these myriad
places of restfulness and beauty, hidden
coy from the globe trotters lorgnettes
in'the sIcns and hollows OF these mid
land hills. with histories reaching far.
thef back than the time OF the SaXons'
first coming, with the moss OF ages upon
them, and vet all OF them us sweet aud
fresh as the dew trickling from the loitl'
est grasses OF Cleeve Clouds and Broad.
way Beacon, which stand like grim old
towers above the Cotswold hills.
I'know the "live" American tourist
lie hardly worthy OF himself II, having
arrived in Liverpool on Tuesday or Fri
day evening, he has not dome" Ches-
ter, dashed through bennington, nod
detI IN n friendly way to tho painted
efigy OF Shakespeare, become tired OF
London, glanced at Wentworth and
Warrick and swept around through the
lake district to Glasgow, the Trossachs,
Edinburgh, Abbottsford and Melrose,
in fact 'iexhausted Great Britain" as
he naiyely and quite correctly puts 1t.
before the first week has barely rolled
around.
Buff this sort OF person could learn
that the best results of travel come from
idling rather than cyCloning through
foreign space, and could get shunte!l
away from railways and then meet with
some sort OF delaining accident that
would hold his lungs, eyes and heart
within region like this long enough to
get them used to its citation and radiance,
there would be one less ricochetting
monstrosity among men, and that much
Of blessed calm would come along the
maalstrom lines of travel.
A pleasant way to reach this lovely
region is through Warwickshire. Stop
d day or more at Stratford II you like,
and ioiier about the church beside the
Avon. Then get an old boatman, mind
YOU an old and garrulous boatman, to
row you down the historic stream. He
will tell you more about Will Shaks-
peare and his times than ii the mighty
bard had been his schoolmate. Do not
let him row fast Give him time to
rest, and descant upon the origin OF
Roman roads and barrows and crom-
Techs, and above all give him time for
folklore tales and bugaboos and whis-
pered mysteries of the lordly balls high
up among tho parks and demesnes.
Never care for the passing hours.
The matches OF cottages lean every
where along the Avon-almost to its
brink. You have no need for an inn.
With your peasant companion you will
he welcome everywhere at night
among the peasantry! BY and by you
will come to the wales among the Cots.
wolds. Then will you SEQ hamlets and
villages dotting the valleys, Embedded
in orchards, clustering on the hillsides,
perched upon the heights, aud all in q
setting OF lush orchards, waving fields
within checkered lines OF hawthorn
hedges or denser rows Of lines, and
these in turn backed by banks OF forest
primeyal; all in such droning quiet,
ample content and smiling opulence
that, full Of the whey exultatlon OF it
all you again and again irresistibly OK
claim, nHere is Already at last"
By and by your boat comes under tho
shadows OF gray old abbey town.
Near, 1t is Deerhurst, whore kings Older
Than Alfred worshiped. Tho Avon has
sunR itself to sleep in tho bosom OF the
silye. Severn, and there, by 0lney,
Cnut. and Edmund Ironside met and
divided England between Dane and
Saxon. Nearer still to the gray old
abbey town is the BLOODY Meadow"
where the War Of the Roses was de-
cided.
Back past this now peaceful scene,
past old matched cottages, bright gar
dens and green fields, there rises upon
the stranger's sight, q mighty silver
1ray old abbey. II Is the abbey OF
Tewkesbury. It Is more than 500 years
old. and the Norman pillars Of its dim
old naye arc the hugest and highest in
ENGLAND. Few of the English abbeys,
al, indeed, of the great English 'cathed-
rals. contain tho materials OF history
md story which Tewkesbury possesses.
Then what wonderful charm there is
in tho old half timbered houses OF
Towkesbury. They lean over tho shad-
oyy streets as though they had come
back from misty past to crane their
necks and heads into the affairs Of this