The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-05-05
WAKEMANS WANDERINCS
MALTA AND THE MALTESE-ill.


Church Of 1T. John.
copyright, 1872. by Edgar L. wakcman.l
vALETTA, Malta. Feb. 20.-The street
scenes Of yaletta may be briefly described
IN the statement that il one could combine
waterproof street and the Alameda of
Gibraltar, the Toledo Of Palermo, tho
ITolus Of Athens and the modern Boule
o ward de Ia Republique of Algiers, and then
remove from this conglomerate some of ito
Berber and oriental aspects, you would Sc
cure an excellent likeness TO the impress
sion you gain from the colorful scenes OF
everyday life and its activities in the chief
city OF Malta.
The constant presence OF the British
soldiery, the splendid, luxuriant and some
times wantonly extravagant displays OF
the government officials and garrison Off
GERS. with endless parades and reviews
alone give the place extraordinary life and
activity. AS every native inhabitant OF
the islands is an adherent Of the Roman
Catholic faith, priests and students clad in
priestly garb are never absent from sight,
while the professionals are Of an extraordin-
airy number and frequently characterized
by the greatest splend0r.
Every day, and often many times day
the huge passenger steamers Of the Medi-
terranean discharge hosts Of tourists here
Thousands during the winter months are
Oh their way 90 or from Egypt, Australia
or India Thousands more are merely
Mediterranean travellers. Nearly all are
here for but DAY, or part Of day, but
the accessions are ceaseless and their mem
bers comprise people Of every nationality
These are anxious TO sec much in little
time, and With their chatter in ell tongues,
craning heads and enthusiastic faces,
heighten and brighten the gay thorough
fares.
Then in all this singular and unique
medley there arc odd tri1es for interest and
study ceaselessly passing before you or
forming distinct bits Of color and antique
in the strange and curious settings Bare
footed sellers of the delicious Maltese
oranges, which hide no less than nectar be-
meath their thin red skins dart through
tnC streets WIN thtff fitiCttt ttft' fttfN
their endless "Sa-hasW or Good morn
inps" whatever the time Of day, the most
agile and alert human beings you ever be
held.
Groups Of watermen struggling 10 their
homes beyond FlOriana, redOlent of harbOr-
side toll and traffic, gayly nod and smile
and chant rs they move within the throng.
Here bevy of bright faced middies, with
the roll and swagger Of old sea salts, but
with the gravcst decOrum, look in this
shop and that with respectful curiosity, al
WAYS forming pleasant groupings, and now
and then touching IA sympathetic chord in
your heart rs members Of the band strag-
gle behind to peer into the faces Of tourists
with an eager, hungry look, as If with
faint hope Of recognizing friends or reia-
tives from the far away home Officers
from men-ofwa smieless and critical,
and interested chiefly in the great fortih-
cations, pass and repass constantly. They
have tolerative sort Of bearing, and the
look in their faces plainly tells the won
ders their battle ships might accomplish
even against Malta should thcy ever chance
TO attempt a breach in its walls.
Solemn Turkish travellers and mer-
chants, viewing everything askance, as
though they remembered the Turkish
heads La Valette once blew back from can
mons mouths into the ranks Of the besieg-
ers as reprisal, suddenly appear, whis&
along for moment and as suddenly are
missing Algerian Jews, often with their
beautiful wives and daughters, rich in
robes and splendid jewels, sweep past with
q truly regal bearing. Well they may, for
with the French in Algeria they are gain
ing great wealth from the vast tobacco
plantations of Mascara, and they bring
their finest cargoes 10 Malta, where the
cheapest and best cigars in the world are
made by the deft Maltese, who feel that
they are rolling in wealth if they receive
for years labor what would sustain the
American cigar maker for only one month.
With all these will be half naked Greek
and Sicilian sailors chattcring and gesticu-
lating wildly Cowled monks move noise
lessly along. Shopmen rush from place TO
place 10 secure what their customers de-
sire without losing them while in the pur-
chasing mood. Hawkcrs Of lava bijoutcrte
and lace plead and wrangle with tourists.
Military bands are going ard coming, fill
ing the air with English, Scottish and
Irish melodies. while adding TO the exhila-
TdllIlR NltllOI VI luc bpNi blt H'HiA hii
the tongues of all the nations and above
these the changing of countless church
bells. These are never rung. They are al
ways hammered with emulOus staccatO, as
though each bellman were enyiOus Of out
hammering all others. The bells are never
silent from mathis TO the angelus hour Of
evening. Even after that they often break
out as though they had got loose from re-
straint and were determined TO enjoy
night of it, rs all humans seem TO do here
in the soft and languorous air.
Indeed Valetta is never silent save in the
early morning hours, Then 1t is like
city of the dead but always sweet and cool
and winsome AT that time if you are
abroad alone the silent churches, the huge
auberges, the tremendous ramparts, the
vast archways, the dim pOrtcoes and the
shadowy balconies seem TO whisper anew
their tales Of romance old, their mysteries
OF chiyalrous and knightly days
But soon from this patio, from that mar
ROW thoroughfare, another silent archway,
from huge barred doors that open and
close with startling click, come funeral
forms, clad ia somber black. They glide
along with bowed heads Their advent
has been 50 sudden and their number IS at
once SO great that you are filed with sur
prise aud dismay. But these do not re
main. For a soft and delicate hand as If
by accident, with a swift motion changes