The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-07-14
POINTS ABOUT A COAT
INFORMATION FOR MEN WHO wEAR
CLOTHES MADE TO ORDER"

NTH Most Men-Truthfulness Essential
Ola hundred men who are able 20 dress
fairly we'll there IS only one whose clothes
n him. OF the other ninety nine great
majority allow themselves 20 be deceived
INTO one Of two opinions-viz. that the gar
,ncnts are all right, OF that the wrinkles,
Bags and distortions are necessary evils
There are, however, few who realize that
tomething is the matter and that the tailor
j. responsible, but they do not know what
O. do about IL. They go from one tailor &C
another, seldom ordering more than one
suit from any and cherishing in their souls
feeling Of animosity against the entire
taytorial profession, which may be just
snough, but viii never take the bag out OF
The knees of a pair of pantaloons.
In the first place, young man, know
Fogr figure thoroughly. Make a careful
Rnd honest investigation. If you are bow
legged or narrow chested, admit the fact
50 yourself and do what you can to remedy
tho defects. There isn't time TO discuss
fhis part Of the subject. Many excellent
articles on physical development have
been published in the last few years, and
they will repay careful study. Having
learned what type Of man you are. you
will be able 20 see what a tailor can do for
you. Never attempt 70 repair defect ar
officially unless the art can be wholly con
pealed. Don't pad your shoulders unless
bou are absolutely certain that the most
prying eye will fail to discover it.
The following points concerning some OF
The most common and most annoying of
insists, with suggestions of the remedies,
are derived from conversations with one
Of the most skillful cutters in this city,
and from your own painful experience:
when you are being measured for a suit
Of clothes assume a natural position. Dc
not attempt 20 conceal any of the eccen.
srieities Of your figure. If you have an
idea that your right shoulder is lower
than your left, don't try TO even them up
by your posture. If you are bow legged
don't press your knees together from a
sentiment OF false shame. Don't initiate
gour chest TO the point Of explosion be
PAUSE you like TO hear a herculean meas
gre called out to the clerk.
Tell the cutter clearly and concisely the
Effects which you desire, and see that he
makes memoranda. If he puts on what
Dr. Holmes calls the gingerbread rabbit
oppression" siRnifying q total lack OF In
Serest in the subject, you may be sure that
Ae intends 10 cut the cloth entirely by sys-
Tenn. In that case you have about one
chance in a thousand of being fitted. Let
the cutter understand that you want the
clothes for some mythical average man. II
you have had trouble in getting suited
heretofore, describe it.
Now, suppose that you are trying on the
suit and examining it critically. We will
begin with the coat BE sure that you are
fully into it. If the tailor pulls it into
place he can make it look all right for
few minutes, op as long as you keep STILL
but, unfortunately, you will not always
have the benefit of his assistance. So
make yourself certain that the coat has
come as near to your body in every place
Rs II will.
Then look it over carefully. If it doesn't
break" over the shoulder you are in luck
hlost coats do. In the most common case
you notice the "break" or wrinkle just
forward Of your collar bone; a tightness
over the top button; a pinching just ID
front Of the arm and a little surplus cloth
Just in front Of the shoulder blade. Exam
Inc carefully for these defects and then
watch the tailor mark the alterations. II
he knows his business he will locate the
trouble where, perhaps you wouldn't sus-
pect tin the shoulder point, as 1T is
marked in the diagram. If he tells you
that be can get the fullness out with an
iron or by little change in the seam on
the top of the shoulder, don't you believe
him. Tell him that the shoulder is too
ktraight" That is the technical term. It
Ftv4Io pf he nF
Tor the neck is not DETECTED sufficiently.
That throws the shoulder point into the
wrong place. That is the critical spot IN
goat.
Tailors will frequently tell you that the
rbreak" at the shoulder could not be RENE
died. That is nonsense You will not get
that story while the tailor is trying to get
your order. Make him fix it till you are
sure that the coat presses equally upon
every part OF the shoulder. 1t Is often
easy to see that the ends are bearing all
the weight Of the garment. Rhis In
lures your dissatisfaction A very hollow
shoulder may need a little padding, but
usually resort TO that remedy indicates
deficiency in your tailor's grasp Of his ousl'
hess.
A low collar drawing away from the
neck, is caused by "a short back part col
Jar that wants TO climb over your head
when you sit down results from too much
length in the back part. Sometimes three
pr four button cutaway looks fairly well
With only the top button fastened, but az
Boon as the others are fastened 1t pushes
Up and wrinkles at the neck.
Always try coat unbuttoned, no mat
ter whether IL is ever TO be worn that way
Note your side view with the coat unbut
toned. If it hangs off, the back is zoo
short If it hangs from the front so tha'
che back shows a tendency TO wrlnkls
against the body, the front is too short
Do not be persuaded to accept either.
There is nothing 90 say Of vests. ANY
tailor should make vest fit well. But
the pantaloons 49, oh, there's the rub
Where is the genius who shall rise ana
tell US how 10 prevent bagging az the
kneeY 1t may be ameliorated, but that Is
all When IL is excessive the fault Is no'
IN the cut at the knee, but in what the
tailor would call the length Of stride. TINS
means the extra cloth on the back, from
the knee up, which enables the leg 10 eH'
tend or bend without difficulty.
The necessity for this extra cloth pre-,
Sents the existence Of perfect PAIR OF
pantaloons There must always be too
much tullpess at point back of the thish
20 look well when the wearer of the panta'
looms Is standing erect. But this necessity
should not DO made 10 excuse wrinkles all
tleMnv Covsy,, ~ bo-b ~ tho leo There