St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1892-08-07
Eternal Vigilance Is the Price
Of Effectiveness in Toll
cts.
Hit-Or-MiSS Girls Must Have
Natural Fitness for the
Role.
Mannish Costumes Will Be in
Vogue Again This Sea-
son.


with the flowers of spring, but, unlike
| them, says writer in the New York
Advertiser, brings no joy with it. 1t
consists in trying TO make two ends
meet when tI.ere Is no stretch to either,
in trying TO tit round pegs in square
holes, in word, in trying to do all im
possible thing. However, it is not nee
essary to become Respondent. If you
can't compete with those who ride in a
coach and four, try your hands on those
who drive out in one horse chaise.
In the olden time, men thought
women beautiful when they were clad
III lomespun. King Cophetua even fell
| in love with beggar maid, and Goethe
turned from his silks and laces Of court
DANES to the homely garb of peasant
| girl. 1t is hot so much the clothes
after all, as the girl in
them. Grace. intelligence, wit,
amiability, these have a power and
potency which the most costly textures
have not. But don't blame woman
| for wanting to make show when sum-
lion to be well dressed in fine
weather. A worn gown may
| pass muster in the uncertain
light of the drawing room, but the glory
of June day calls for fresh, Few
| dresses. graceful III hang, perfect in fit,
| becoming in tone. A young girl espe-
| cially should strive TO have about
| her the neatnesS of the rosebud,
| the freshness of the clover top,
the perfume OF the lilac.
| These delightful Qualities are no
| more within easy reach of the rich than
| of those in moderate circumstances.
| They are the result of that eternal vigil
| lance and care which the particular girl
| gives to her toilet. True, the nit-or-
| miss girl is often very attractive char
| acter. but she must have natural fit
ness for the role.
This year, at last, there will be a
pronounced atfectatiOn for mannish
| costumes. 1t is extremely becoming TO
Il young woman with high color, but
should. as a rule, be avoided
should give preference to silk
shirts made full and set off with
| some lace ornament at the the throat.
| Over these full blouses the sleeveless
| Elton jacket makes very pretty effect,
| giving the requisite touch of color. In
some cases the Eton jacket is made
with vest, but this is matter of taste.
| Yoked bodices, too, are very modish,
| and with them you may wear q sash
with the long japanese bows, which
you fasten up against the figure with
| fancy pins.
At the seaside and in the mountains
| the evenings are very apt to be quite
cool. and hence arises tue necessity of
being muffied up at times. For this pur-
pose nothing can be more practical and
more stylish than the paletot sack, such
| looks very we'll in gray-blue cloth. 1t
large mother-of-pearl buttons, which
| may, if you are all admirer of outdoor
| sports, have some appropriate emblem
| in steel on their faces, such as horse
| shoe, tennis racquet or crossed oars.
| The pockets, shelves, iapelS and bot
| tom OF this useful garment should have
several rows Of stitching and be lined
| with silk.
The s'inteiligent foreigner who Wis
| its our shores from time TO time insists
| that we have no ingenueS in this cOun-
| try. He claims that there is no such
| delicious middle land between child
| hood and wOmanhood as exists in the
| old world; that when our chill
dren throw aside their dolls they
take up the young man with
| ness. Possibly the "inteiligent for
eigner" may be right in most cases, but
did he ever make search for an ingenue
at summer resort? She is more likely
| to be met with there than when the
| family is in town. She is denied access
to the drawing room. but who can keep
| her out of the hotel parlor OF Off the
hotel veranda? They may not be, strict
| ly speaking, convent buds, for their
| teachers take them ont for exercise on
| the avenue every day, but they are the
ingenues of American life. Their sus-
| picionS are strong and their knowledge
| scanty. They are the picturesque ele-
| ment at the summer resort. For one Of
them pretty costumes is of figured
material with fchu, which at the
back is surmounted by a round yoke
and crosses in front and hooks on the
shoulders. The collar is ruched. Or
| she may be clad in a cheviot, the skirt
and ccrSelet forming a single piece.
The trimming may be of galloon or rib
bon. The blouse may be of crepe de
chine Or any soft. light material, i'll two
parts. the upper or tichu and the lower
or plated portion. The cOrSelet should
be boned and be either laced or hooked
at the back. The galloon which borders
the skirt should be brought up Oh both
sides of the same.
The craze of the summer in the fash
ion line will undoubtedly be quaint,
old fashioned effects. to b. obtained by
the use of the poke bGnaet. mittens,
crossed kerchiefs, SAM al shoes and
fairy godmother style gener-
ally. These quaint conceits of
Queen Fashion are charming
Iy appropriate for some young
people. need not warn the girl with
| long. pointed nose that she must keep
clear of poke bonnet. The effects
| might be altogether too natural. One
sees nothing but round waists, or else The
| baSqueS are dreSS-coat style only at
the back. and those who pretend to
stand behind Queen Fashions throne
say that waists are gradually creeping
| upward and will be under the arms be
fore many months. Who can say but
that in the near future the mOdish miss
will be lolling in graceful at
titude of cultured Incidence upon Il soft
upholstered divan, clad in a genuine
perked Upon the top OF the head, short
waist, pulled sleeves and long, sheath
skirt molding the form with the cling
ing effect of soft silks? Certainly, if
the cuff goes up much higher it will
give the arm very much the look of
being thrust into an Empire sleeve.
Many of the outdoor costumes are
maze with bodices, consisting entirely
of lace, yokewise, below which there
are alternate bands of ribbon of differ
ent coicrs. For instance, if the lace be
white the ribbon corSlets may be white
MORE and gray satin.
Vatican backs are not in high favor
with young women having graceful
figures, for they simply serve to hide
beauty instead of accentuating it. as
should be the desire of those fortunate
to possess fine figures. In fact, some
mischievous maidens pretend to have
discovered that whenever Wat
| teau plat is worn by a
young person it serves to
conceal some defect, such as round
shoulders or unshapely back, just as
| some girls take to the so-called reform
dress because they lack taper waists
| OR have no figure worth displaying.
The Russian blouse will be popular
with tall, slender girls this season; it is
usually made up in silk and trimmed
! with passementerie. You may make
one of these blonses up in wooden stuff