The National tribune., 1892-09-08

L---ss9,s4s-. s1-Az-s Hawkes. Raw. At the
wharyes j mounted a
Colonial mail coach for tour to the Ne" Ae'-
land Hot Springs.
A journey of 30 miles took Us to Lake 1oupo.
A further ride of 80 leagues through the Aea-
landau forests brought us among scSluihs
ponds and steaming streams.
The roadway was arched with the branches
of trees and the woods were gay WIN ierns'
Their delicate fronds tapped on the breeze IN
every hedge and under every bush.
The highway was well sanded ana kept IN
good condition. The roads are surveyor ANU
laid out with easy grades.
Descending a sloping hill, we saw from the
coach windows. down in valley among the
mountains, the Jets of vapor rising from Uhe
springs and fountains of steam issuing from
boiling pools.
At the hotel our stage drew up and tue pas
sengers dismounted, registered their names anu
were assigned to rooms. The parors were iuti
of sightseers from the old country ana TOURISTS
from the Australian colonies.
Travellers from many cli;nes. of wide obserVa-
ton and varied experience were colecteu'
They had become social, and were exchanging
their observations in different lands and pre-
senting their estimates of the character OF the
waters and the virtues of the different springs
on the earth. Some had tried the famous
springs in Europe: others had drank from the
National fountains in America, and were nm
ishing with the lphur draughts Of New lea
land.
But the sparkling soda and the efervescent
magnesia that gushes from the stony canyons
in the snowy ranges of the Rocky Mountains
took the palm over the sulphur waters.
One enthusiast on water insisted that no
other collection of springs enriched the Worla
like those which bubble from the base OF Pixies
Peak in Colorado Another stolid Englishman
who had failed TO discover any superior vir-
r ~ sR.rc nf &c
cousins-reiused to indorse the assumptions OF
his comrade: he disputed the latter's state
ments and proceeded TO mention the claims OF
waters elsewhere. Everyone, however, had
favorite springs, and agreed to disagree on their
qualities.
An erratic surveyor in the Government serV-
ice had become infatuated with the figure and
graces OF Maori Chiefs daughter, and raised
an alteration on inter-race matrimonial ALI
ance He was trying to make out case III his
own favor-to hit present conditions.
A spinster ma den, in the roaring forties, who
had herself become interested in the official,
engaged in an argument on his theories, and
undertook to expose the incougruity of his
PHILOSOPHERS aud changed his views As was
not concerned in the conflicting dogmas OF
matrimonial aspirants / went out to examine
the springs. walk of few hundred yards
through the reeds brought me to the sulphur
fountains.
ne springs are cut IN square CdF)ilts ii tilc
ground and Enclosed with boxes. Where the
veins formerly issued from the level earth, pits
have been dug and walled, and the waters col
lected in pools. From the surface of the warm
waters arose vapory mists, and the aroma OF
sulphur was strongly discerned.
The springs are situated in meadow-like
marsh, and reeds and flags grow around in
square acres.
The sulphur waters are warm, but are not at
the boiling point; they have a temperature of
from 60 to 2l2o.
Baths are provided for those who wish to
receive the virtues of sulphur bathing.
The bath-pools are cut in The ground; long
holes like graves, in the earth receive the
tepid waters direct from the veins, and the
waters fow out in little rivulets from the
bathiBg-pools. A lsttice-work Of willow boughs
worked into frame of posts around the boxes,
and covered with canvas, forms the bathing
houses, screens the patient from public OBJ
servation, shelters him from the rains and
protects his body from the draughts aud sun.
rays
The waters are said 10 be excellent for the
cure Of rheumatism, and many diseases Of the
blood and joints
Beds Of sulphur uuderlie the marshes: some
of the veins issue up through solid banks Of
birthstone and the waters are strongly impreg-
mated with the mineral. Some of the bath
pools carved out Of compact quarries OF
sulphur, and walled and foored with yellow
birthstone
The contents Of the basins, suppose are
the strongest sulphur liquid IA the world
there is at least more birthstone in the vicinity
than have ever observed elsewhere.
Near the springs are many scslding ponds,
whose waters are at a boiling temperature
the streams issuing from these ponds are also
scsldiBF hot. The ground among these hot
basins is boggy, and, although il appears solid
will open and swallow any heavy weights pu,
Oh IL.
Tourists lured by the deceptive character O.
the soil have stepped the banks of the
treacherO0s boys aud sank TO their necks in
the scalding muck. Natives also-new ARR
walls unacquainted with the lOcality-havc
wandered on the soft marshes and plunged
into horrible death.
The visitor must carry pole with him and
test the stability Of the earth on every stel
ahead Of him if he wishes 10 preserve his lifS
among the hot sloughs. The locations of tho
scalding pools and hot streams are seen by tb,
warm yapors rising from their heated waters
and by day the rising mists serve as a warning
TO unwary tourists that they dangerou
ground.
in front Of the hotel lake spreads its smooth
bosom out among the hills. Along the lake
side geysers rise from the earth to d hight 0
30 feet Columns OF hot water are thrown
into the air for hours: then the fountains vii
subside for few hours TO again burst out 0
their hoies ana seek the higher atmoSpher
with their steamng torrents. The highes
state of activity amongst the geysers is in tn
afternoon al 3 o'clock. When the weather i
stormy and high winds prevail on the lake tia
agitation among the rising fountains is terrific
and their hot waters are thrown into the al
in large volumes with tremendous force
The geysers are ranged in a rev for mile
around the lakeside, and In the afternoon thei
falling showers add new features to the land
scspe
Among the fountains are also some mu
geysers. that throw out of their hollow cavi
ties ciods of gray mud; the muck lie as soft an,
thick as mush, and piles Of mounds Of slus
near the splitting holes.
spsdeful Of mud is often thrown at on
time from the holes and other discharges con
tain pint of the mushy liquid. The discharge
follow each other in quick succession, and Tn
cavities are constantly throwing out muck, 6
that the holes resemble playing fountains {
mud
Sometimes the discharges are thin almost q
water, and are elected from the holes in jets
The mouths of the mud geysers resembl
underground blowpipes.
The emissions are confined to certain hour
sna ale largely regulated by the condition
the lake.
When storms prevail the play of the mu