Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1892-03-27
CHAT ON FASHION.

think Of spring novelties while the nose
tingles and the fingers feel the nip of frosi
is not easy. Numbered among the necessi
ties are the Easter bonnet and the spring
suit, and so the milliner puts a tempting
array in the window and the merchant and
the modiste beguile one into purchasing
dainty fabrics that lily comport with for.
bidding skies and muddy thoroughfares.
The quaint shapes on the counters give
but little idea what the bonnet or hat viii
be when it energies from the hands of the
miTliuer. Some have such peaked and tube
like crowns as to look odd if not ridiculous,
but when the bows, the flowers, the feath-
ers and the pins are on the shape seems TO
be entirely changed. In trimming much
use is made of narrow ribbon, in ruches and
rosettes, and ribbon that is not narrow for
strings, these in some instances reaching to
the bottom of the skirt. Shirred chiffon is
much used for trimming hats, and the hat
itself is exceedingly pretty when made of
this gossamerlil1e material One OF the
novelties is a crownless hat, large flowers
such as peoples, supplying the place.
! Chiffon is losing none of its popularity it
is used for evening dresses over the same
shade of silk; 1t trims and forms hats, is
used in all ways to adorn the neck, and,
where it would be least expected, is seen in
parasols. The newest are full chiffon
aounces inside and out, and are properly
called Carmencita, as they resemble dan
GERS skirts.
| In spring costumes for the street it seems
! question in the length of skirts whether
the English tailors shall dictate. They are
making vigorous fight for the short skirt
with fair show of winning. The bell
skirt holds its own, and writer's speak of
the seamless skirt, very much biased and
too difficult for the home dressmaker. In
! lightweight goods hip drapery is fashion
able, and will be welcomed by slender
figures.
This draping is pretty in challies. Shell
drapery is now seen and admired. The
shell-like folds should be lined with con-
trasting folds to heighten the effect, Some
of the backs of skirts show jabot arrange
ment from the waist line to the bottom of
the skirt.
The cheapness and beauty of cottons
make wash gowns quite desirable, but it is
mistake to fashion them so that they will
| not launder easily Notifications of the
Russian blouse are favored for these pretty
dresses, which often rival more pretentious
gowns in becomingness and artistic effects.
For others, intended especially for young
ladies, d full round waist is preferred. A
very pretty finish for the quaint dimity
gowns and those of fine chambray or zephyr
is inch-wide ribbon run in and out of button
holes worked just above the hem on the
skirt ana through smaller button holes at
the upper part of the waist, back and front,
giving the effect of round yoke.
One of the prettiest and simplest ways TO
make Bingham dress is to have bell
skirt, edged with rufie of lace, and to
overlap this and sewed to a separate band
a second skirt to reach nearly to the knees,
and bordered also with ruche of the lace.
This overskirt should be slightly fulled on
the band all around to represent the lower
part of the long Russian blouse, and worn
over a round, full waist, with belt.
In richer fabrics Vatican effects are
sought after and the Vatican bow is con-
sidered necessary adjunct to ball, re-
ception, dinner or visiting dresser, in
deed, any distinctively house gowns
considered complete. It is made Of satin
or velvet ribbon from two to four inches in
width, tied, usually, in two-looped bow,
which is placed on the back, just between
the shoulders, and from this hang long,
futtering ends, reaching quite to the edge
of the skirt
A pretty trimming for silks and light
weight woolens is rufles of grosgrain, satin
or velvet ribbon, either gathered or box
plated.
In street costumes, simple 'tefects'' are
the ne plus ultra of style, but the simple
ity is that which is only achieved by the
use of handsome materials, and perfection
in fit and workmanship. A 'tsimplep serge
dress must have its silk Innings and silk
petticoat to wear with it, and the latter its
pinked ruf1es on the inside, so there is
much truth, as well as humor, in the asser-
ton that sit is only necessary to turn a
simple wooden gown wrong side out in or
der to have very pretty silk one.''
AS to the silk petticoat, it has entirely
superseded the white one. It must be cut |
and fitted as carefully in front and at the |
sides as the dress skirt, but for the back |
full breadth is inserted, cut half length, and |
two or three breadths according to the |
length of the skirt gathered to it. Some
times they are cut exactly like the skirts
with which they are to be worn. Pinked |
ruf1es covered with lace flounce are used
on those intended for very dressy wear, and
several overlapping lace rufies on the in
side; but for service, the skirt-edge has a
narrow binding of velvet and is trimmed |
with any number of gathered, bias rufies,
with wide bias ruffle on the inside. For
use with different dresses, they are made of
changeable silk; but for street wear, they
are of the same color as the dress, or black,
and are inconspicuons when the dress skirt
is raised.
A note of black runs through many of the
fashions for spring. Black garnitures are
used on almost all colors; in silks black
forms background for brilliant or delicate
blossoms or vines; an-black dresses,
trimmed with jet, are considered very
stylish; and when a touch of color is neces-