The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-03-06

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an n IL siorer,as or country mansions near
.,.ano and at Bunola and Espwlas. with
- snlendid avenues, gardens and rich
,as,;oes OF Moorish architectural remains
49, er more interesting than similar ,stab
Bshments have at any time come upon III
Snaln The wonderful roadway from Pal
ma 10 Soller Is grander than any roadway
an Italy. and half The distance winds along
and upon masses OF mountain side masonry
OF tremendous thickness and height. over
near the eastern shore is Mcnacor. the seo
ond largest city OF the island. a little ds
lance 10 the northeast II Arta ana here
entered by natural archway 10 feet
high arc doubtless the most wonueriu.
grottocs OF the world. and at Alcudia Is
one OF the most famous coral fisheries OF
the Mediterranean
But II none OF these Is seen VISIT 10
Valdemosa and It's once famous monastery
is worth a special trip 10 the island. WIN
as magnificent surroundings as those OF
Vallombrosa in Italy, mountain chAS'i'
is bridged by the ancient pile IN 30 eNoraOr
binary and picturesque way as 10 seem
at distance like gray old cloud-klSseu
nest that has for ages deded decay ana tne
battling Of the aerial tempests there. but
the gray OF real decay IS upon all Things al
Valdemosa; in the gray old church ana
endless cells and cloisters; in the gray OLD
houses that nestle along the mountain side
beneath it. and in the gray old folk that
haunt the spot like wraiths Of those VINO
once were there. An indescTibabie sad
ness fingers about this splendid MaIorcah
relic of monkish times and days The rich
of Palma come here in summer and live
CAV mock conventual life George Sand.
half a century ago, passed the most doior'
Gus winter OF her life within these walls.
With her was Chopin. Perhaps in these
very cloisters was born the wild and mex
pressibe melancholy Of the melodic crea
lions of the masters later life. To me
Valdemosa will remain more a memory oil
these two strange sad souls than crum'
bling. deserted aud majestic monastic reht
upon these island mountains.
But best of all in Maiorca you VIII love
the peasant folk Of the island and the
sunny setting in which you will every
where find them. The three classes IN
Maiorcan provincial life are the titled
landholders, the farmers who rent theii
land from the nobility and the commoo
peasant laborers who toll in the fields
forests and vineyards. The houses of the
nobility are very fine and beautiful. and
a large number Of servants are retained.
Many of the middle class farmers each
control from 500 10 1000 acres OF land
Such as these possess farmsteadings spread
over acres Of ground, all surrounded by
vine covered walls, and all possessing first
the quaint court into which ali the living
rooms Of the family enter and behind this
the greater open court, from which all the
outbuildings and granaries are reached.
Many Of these structures, which formerly
housed the country aristocracy. contain
private chapels, or rather chapels into
which a latticed gallery extends from the
upper gallery of the court.
The structural semblance to the ancient
Moorish form of habitation is preserved
even among the cabins of the peaSantry
However humble the household, all It's
members and belongings, even 10 the don
keys, goats and fowls. are found WITHIN OF
radiating from this sunny, open court. TIC
a strangers eyes the high, apertureless
outer walls would present a cherries as
pect were they not covered with vines and
blossoms, and if the pleasant and often
picturesque interiors were not meanwhile
in thought and mind. These cabins are
seldom isolated. Two or three and often q
half dozen will nestle together in pleasant
irregularity, and with gnarled and ancient
olive trees clumps of fig trees, copses of al
mond and tiny groves of orange, with which
they are all surrounded, form the most
charming countryside pictures Of any
southern land.
In my trampings about the island | Sc
cared entrance to many farmers and peas
ants homes. From this found that all
methods of agriculture and bomeside labor
were OF the most primitive sort, and that
there were no idle folk in MajorcaL Out
door labor of some sort is continuous the
year round. All the women spin, knit OF
weave, and have never entered a peas
ants cabin where mothers ana daughters
were not in some such manner employed
Hospitality is charming, naive and whole
hearted. The plate of figs. basin OF al
mCgts or basket or oranges with the
wholesome wines Of the country are eYei
ready for the friend or Strangers coming
thought had partaken Of that drink OF
the gods hOrchctd, In Cuba 1t is simply
the pulverized kernels Of the almonds, 10
which water and sugar are added Here
where the almond grows in the greatest
perfection every housewife preserves huge
Jars OF the finest nuts for hOrchdtd
The old mortar and pestle are here foi
their grinding The shells and brown
husks are removed and quarts Of the snowy
powder are literally "leached, " the creamy
liquid tlltering slowly through. TheE
sonora or senorita adds spice OF flavor
tamarind, or perhaps pomegranate, or per
haps dash OF wine. with her own fair
hand 1t is food and drink And il Is nc
wonder that in Majorca the entire peas
antry live sumptuously on daily wages
averaging less than twenty cents for men
and fifteen cents for women. the year
through when every manner Of natures
most royal food is at every door Tor the
taking, and in such bounteousness that
where IL ripens it Is yalueiess aud without
price.
Somehow there grows upon one the win
some notion that you have known al.
these lowly folk before; that you have
seen their festas and known their songs IL
the sunny wales of Cuba, over IN the glow
ing valley Of Guines; that you have come
upon their brightness and cleanliness
among the Alps OF Switzerland; that their
generosity and hospitality were met III
Connemara or Donegal; that their thrifI
and frugality have their congener among
the Pennsylvania Dutch, and that their
love Of home and simple village ways carry
you 10 the pleasant mountain wales among
the shining English lakes. Surely they
are an idyllic people in an idylIc land
Want Is unknown, crime Is unheard Of
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