Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1892-03-03
CHAT ONFAsHION

The ingenuity of designers seems
taxed to its utmost in designing new mod
els of bodices and sleeves. The fancy bod
ice is dominant now, and its beauty must
keep pace with its convenience. One of
the latest is the senorita bodice, it has
blouse elbow sleeves and fan pleated epau-
lettes of pinkish mauve crepon silk, with
jabot and neck bands OF the same as is the
vest. The silk sleeves are wrinkled to the
elbow, and the pleated epaulette tapers
jabot fashion down the center of the sleeve
to meet a nine inch cuff of heliotrope benga-
line which is used in the scarf and the
jacket fronts. The edges trimmed with
treble rows of beaded gallon. Below the
belt is double frill of embroidered lisse.
Double sleeves are seen on house and
walking dresses. These in some measure
resemble the angel sleeve worn many years
ago. The under sleeve is tlght-ftting to
the elbow with a fat trimming at the wrist,
the upper part is full and gathered or
pleated top and bottom. Over this is the
open sleeve, simply an oblong reaching a
little below the elbow, left open on the
inner seam and pleated into the armsize,
trimmed down each side and across the bot
tom 70 correspond with the lower part of
the under sleeve. The deep cuff is seen in
all material, although the leg O. mutton is by
no means obsolete.
The present puzzle among modistes, is
how to reconcile Russian designs and thin
fabrics, but fashion seldom staggers at in
congruities, the decree goes forth and even
a stickler for harmony soon becomes ac-
customed to what at first seemed eccentric
to an intolerable degree. The Russian
blouse, usually seen in heavy cloth and fur
trimmed adapted to the rigors of that
climate, is transformed into long belted
garment, without back seams, and in order
to suit summer material and instead of be-
ing double breasted and fastened invisibly is
to be left open over long vest, the front
fitted with dart seams. Instead of high
close fitting collar, is a turnover that lies
fat and spreads on the shoulder, and the
upper sleeve, originally designed for extra
warmth, is pulled, slashed and caught up
on the shoulder as an extra ornament.
In trimming the crepou woods for spring
instead Of fur there will be fluffy silk
border on the bell demi-train skirt with
bands of gallon above it. The sleeve TO
carry out the Russian idea must be cut at
the top so that the fullness droops. In or
der to do this the outside is cut much
longer than the arm and pulled up on the
lining and fastened there. a simple design
for loose waist of cotton, thin silk or fine
wooden goods is made with yoke, the
loose part hanging nearly to the knee. The
yoke is fastened invisibly and trimmed
with rows of braid or velvet ribbon. The
loose body portion below is held to the
figure with handsome girdle belt The
high-shouldered sleeves have the fashiona-
bic deep cuffs trimmed with several rows
of ribbon or fancy braid, which also edges
the lower portion of the waist The back
is lifted with three box plaits from the
neck to the waist-line, hanging loose below.
Irish point lace will be much used for
yokes and cuffs in the loose bodices of cord
like striped goods that is to be worn the
coming season. The skirts of these dresse
are gathered, and have fan back
AS summary, it may be said that in
skirts there is less of the sheath effect and
a tendency to fare The demi-train con-
tinues TO be worn, but the better dressed
women in large cities are making walking
dress lengths for the street moro fashion
able
Sc far as can be seen there is no inten-