St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1892-11-14
.ACountry Full Of Charm aud
Interest for Visit
oPS.
Old Helsingborg With It's
Sturdy, Seven-Storied
Fortress.
Hipschholm, Where Struensee
Looked Too Deeply Into a
Queens Blue Eyes.
A Land Where Lovers Of Ro-
nance Delight to
Wander.

Not a great number of holiday-makers
find their way to the shores OF Sweden,
but it is a country full of charm and in
terest, and we'll repaYs visit. AS |
write look from my windows over the
blue waters of the sound, Or Oresund, as
the natives have it, towards the low.
green hills of Denmark, where the
great fortress of Kronborg, at Eistnore,
is distinctly visible, says the London
Graphic. An imposing looking build
ing it is, too, far more like royal castle
than fort; there Is a glorious view
from its highest tower, the Flaggen
Batterie, and from this point the
number and nationality OF all passing
vessels is taken ana noted down by the
Watchulan on duty. In fOggy weather
a signal is given every minute, the sig
nal lasting five seconds-a very neceS
sary and useful precaution in these
often over-crowded waters.
1t is difficult to realize on this warm,
still summer day that before long the
narrow strait will be choked with ice;
the forest Of mastS ana tluttering sails
make a charming picture now, III spite
OF the smoke from the steamers, as the
sunshine plays on the ripping waves
and the fishermen come and 90 with
their nets and great baskets of fish OH
their way to the market hard by. Some
tines Il feet Of 200 or 800 ships Will be
stationed here, awaiting a favorable wind
to help them to pass the. sound, and
when The lOng-eXpected breeze makes
itself felt and they all raise their an
chorS at the same moment, it is pretty
sight we'll worth watching for. Here,
in 4 .lc mo XVn n =
inhabtahts-in the bathing season many
more-for the excellence OF the. hotels is
great attracti0n,as well as the soft sea
breeZas which prevail OH this south
western coast. The place IS All ancient
one. having been founded in the early
part of the middle ages, and it still pos
sesSeS fine old ruin to which no date
seems to be assigned. known as Burg
Karnen-a formidable fortress seven
stories high, which Overlo0kS the town:
from its tower fine outlook over Swe-
dish and Danish waters may be had.
AS it is much the custom here TO take
rooms and cater for yourself in English
fashion, the market and the different
resources Of the town become objects
of interest. The principal square is
usually crowded on one side with coun-
try carts containing piles of fresh but
ter, eggs, meat, cheeee, bread, fish,
tloWerS-not much in the way OF fruit
or vegetables and there is no difficulty
in supplying the wants OF Il household.
When change of scene or menu Is Ge-
sired you can dine at one of the no els
or have anything sent from them to
YOUR own quarters iii the convenient
Continental fashion.
These huStelrieS are most comfort
ably, and even luXuriOuSly, furnished.
At the largest the Dall room is quite
splendid affair and beautifully decor
ated. The views are pleasant from the
windows of all, as they overlook the
sea; and the life, chatter and business
going on Oh the quayS and highways is
enough to amuse and distract without
disturbing your reverie too much, should
you be disposed that way. The railway,
it is true, passes along by the shore. but
there are few trains at night believe
none at all; and it is difficult to realize
sometimes that you are living in sea
port of considerable Importance.
A Swedish supper is very important
affair, though it does not involve an
extensive outlay. If your tastes are
modest, you may sup we'll for the sum
of one kroner (ab0ut Shilling). Ones
own plate becomes the centerplece OF
the feast, and the dishes radiate from
ner is universal, and before seating
yourself you are expected to pay visit
10 side table. where large and varied
collection of appetiZerS are set out, both
in the form Of solids and liquids.
The pretty public garden must not be
forgotten, and there are also many plea
SAINT resting places along the shore.
Kopenhagen. beloved ofroyalty, is with
i'll easy reach; Sophiero, a fayorlte So
iourn of the King and Queen, with
lovely park, though. perhaps, the Dan
isn coast is the most attractive. klam-
penborg, Fredericksburg, Charlottenlund
are all close at hand. and HirschhOlm,
where formerly a beautiful castle stood,
now converted into a churcn-lt was
here that SlruenSee looked too deeply
into the blue eyes of the fair-haired
Queen Caroline Matilda.
One day we CT ossed over to the little
seazbathing village of Marie-lyst, a ia
y0rite resort about mile from the port
of ElSinOre, itself a quaint and interest
ing Old town. The whole of the village
street, composed of the neat-looking one
stored stone houses common to Den
mark, appeared to have been given over
to the invading army of visitors; at the
end of it was large park, with small
wooden house in the center containing
some thirty or forty rooms. This is the
hotel, but all the rooms are used as
bedrooms. About hundred yards fur
ther is the Casino. where all the meals
except the morning coffee are taken;
outside the building awnings are ar
ranged for those who choose to dine al
fresco. A good band played on certain
afternoons, and it was evidently
the fashion to come over from
Elsinore on such occasions to listen and
dine. We used to take our early break
fast on terrace overlooking the sound
at about a, M, when the rest of the
visitors would still be ip bed, watching
as we ate it in the sunlight sparkling
on the waves, the stately ships sailing
past. bound perhaps for some 1ar-distant
port, while the fishing-boats, with their
burdens, were fastening on to one or
other of the neighboring towns to land
their freight. After coffee had been
disposed of, 1t was amusing to stroll
bathers, or saunter down the village
into the curious old town, with its wind
mills and quaint narrow streets and
massive buildings, returning to the
Casino to lunch off fish and strawberries
and cream. The fish was so good here
that we rarely ate anything else.
Life in these continental by-ways has
distinct charm of its own. Nobody
takes meal indoors if 1t be possible to
eatsit outside, nor do people mind being
overlooked, or see any reason why the
passers-by should not see them eat
their dinner or drink their coffee If it
amuse them to see these ceremonies;
and, to those of US who may be students
of human nature. such cosmopolitan
gatherings offer wide field OF interest.
The ordinary English tourist may find
Sweden too tame and pastoral, per-
haps, for his taste; but the lover of his
tory or romance will derive intense
pleasure from his wanderings, If he set
about it in the right spirit.
The people are kindly and hospitsble,
the railways are we'll managed, and
where these do not exist there are dill
gences and steamboats, to take their
place. Excellent meals are always In
readiness at the usual hours at certain