Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-02-28
PARIS OF THE SOUTH.
Montevideo Is a Cosmopolitan City
Fully Up to Modern Notions.
IT'S RICH, GAY AND LUXURIOUS.
The Style of the Architecture Is Usually
an Index of Wealth.
EVENING SCENES ON THE STREETS


the sights of Montevideo-and, by the way,
let us first learn to pronounce its name
correctly. In the schools of Yankeedom
we were taught to say Mon-te-ve-di-o, with
| the accent on the third syllable; but here on
the spot, where people certainly ought to
know how it should be called, it is Mon
tay-vay accenting the fourth syl-
liable and remembering that the letter
which we call ''e'' is rendered "a" In the
Spanish language, and 81" is pronounced
"e,"
It is midsummer now on this side of the
equator, you know, and these January days
are the most delightful of the year, abso-
lutely perfect in point Of weather, the heat
tempered by ocean breezes, and dry, pure
winds blowing down the great La Plata
from uninhabited pampas above. The happy
ricos sit all day on their balconies, strum-
ming guitars, smoking cigarettes and suck
ling mate through silver tubes; while los
pobres (the poor)-equally careless of to-
morrow if only there be ''bite and sup" to-
day-loll in the sunshine, more th oroughly
contented than any king in his gildedpalace;
and in the balmy evenings all the local
world, aristocrats and plebians together, HE
themselves to the plaza, to enjoy music and
moonlight to the top of their bent.
Its Architecture Freakish.
Let us begin our tour with that central
point, the Plaza de la Constitution, which
after the manner of Spanish-Americans-
was laid out before the town was fairly
planned, and became the nucleus, around
which everything grew. For many years it
was known as the Plaza de la Matriz, until
(in 1880 the constitution of the newborn
Republic was formally proclaimed in that
square; after which event it was solemnly
rechristened. One side of it is occupied by
the great Cathedral de la Matriz, with its
huge dome covered with blue, green and
yellow tiles, and its two tall towers, in one
of which is fine clock that strikes the
hours, halves and quarters, and is illumi-
mated at night.
Modern Montevideo is much given to
stucco, stunning facades and general freak
ishness of architecture; In contrast with
which this plain old-fashiohed pile-grim,
gray and massive, with its air of indestruct-
ability-appears doubly impressive. It was
dedicated as long ago as 1900, but time and
wars have made little impression upon 1t.
Inside we find the usual tawdryness that
distinguishes other South American sane
tuaries, the smell of candle smoke and long
imprisoned incense, a tomb-like atmosphere
that receives no ventilation except from the
carefully screened main entrance.
Inconsistency of Church Images
Why is it, wonder, that in these south
ern churches the Virgin Mother seems to
receive so much more alteration than is
bestowed upon either the Father or the
Son? In this cathedral, as in many others,
we can find but one or two representations
of Jesus, hidden away IN darkened corners,
while saints in gorgeous vestments abound
and there are at least dozen images of the
blessed Mary-Marie Angustos-"Mary of
Anguish" Marie Mercsdes-'.Mary Of
Mercy" Marie Carmen Mary of Blood"
the Immaculate Conception" Marie
Transitu-'. MARY ascending to Heaven"
and no end of others. AS in many South
American sanctuaries, there is negro
here among the saints-St. Baltazer; and
Saint Augustine, too,-a countryman of
Othello, the Moor, you remembers paint
ed black as ebony.
About the only innovation in this Monte
video cathedral is striking and beautiful
statue, near the door, representing some
long, dead Archbishop, clad in full canoni-
Gals, kneeling with head appraised in prayer.
On another side of the Plaza de la Con-
stitucion is the Cabildo, where Congress
holds its session, as indicated by the label
across its front-''Representacion Ma
cionsL" On another side is the celebrated
Uruguay Club house, with its magnificent
facade of white marble, one of the.
Most Luxuriously Appointed Places
of its kind on the continent. Nearly op-
posite to it is the English Club house-an
Institution dear to the hearts of exiled
Britons, though plainly housed and con-
Quoted with an eye to the solid comfort of
to ostentatious display. In the middle of
the Plaza is superb white marble foun-
tain, with many basins and much carving,
iss base inscribed with patriotic sentiments
and dates commemorating the political his
tory of the country. From this central
point paths radiate like the spokes in .
wheel, each path fanked with Egyptian
thoSn or acacia trees, covered with blossoms
in their season, but so pruned and tended
that one pities their crippled condition.
To the right of the fountain is pretty
little kiosque, where fine military band
plays every Sunday morning after mass,
and on most evenings of the week. Stone
benches outline the paths, set under the
thorn trees; and the rest of the plaza is
strewn with smooth reddish gravel, upon
which small tables are scattered about,
where ices, wines, lemonadesAs ETC., are
served. On summer evenings all upper
class Montevideo may be seen here, out on
dress parade as it were, in their choicest
Jewels and finest toilets (mostly imported),
showing all the latest quirks and freaks Of
tickle fashion.
The Beautv Show in the Evenipss
It il the 'ebeapty show of the section,
patronized by all the ladies, old and young,
and therefore, IS . matter of course, dill
gently attended by all the men. The senor-
ftas, guarded by their mothers and duennas,
slowly promenade up and down the paths
or rather they toddle, with more or less
grace, on their extremely high heeled shoes
the marketable females with downcast
eyes and coquettish mien, their chaperones
marching with bold front, like soldiers,
glaring severely at the double row of ogling
men whose attention they have come out on
purpose to attract; while the latter, un-
abashed, stare into the faces of the girls
with audible comments on their beauty and
style, after the accepted fashion OF Spanish
America
Here and there in the crowd one sees an
Indian face, but the native type is more rare
than the negro, and dashing Mulattoes and
negresses are copmon-the latter generally
e1trayagantly dressed in the extreme of
style, almost invariably wearing white or
pale blue, those most unsuitable colors
which the race everywhere seem to affect
APerfect Babel of Tongues.
Sit awhile on one of the benches and
listen to the buzz of conversation as the
brilliant throng files by and you will hear