Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-10-01
MEMS DRESS,
Important Changes in England and
France.

Important Changes in England and
From the London Standard.
There are certain indications Of an approach
ing revolution in the dress of Englishmen This
season has seen many changes which, though
trifing in themselves. point to others vet to
come. The alteration in the fashion of riding
dress has already been referred to as tending
largely to the picturesque. and the RENTING Of
the once binding law Of black coat and silk hat
for afternoon wear in town in favor Of brown
boots, tweed suits and straw hats as more suit
able for August and September also points in the
same direction. As to river dress, its develop
ments during the last few months have been all
dnthe side ofcolor and pictorial effect.
The really remarkable development Of the
tweed manufacture in Great Britain has been
factor in adding color to mems dress. Some
twenty years ago such suits we're worn solely
by sportsmen, and then only when they were en-
gagged in sport. Now no wardrobe is complete
without its complement Of tweeds, serges and
fannels. Tweed, as known some fifteen years
ago, was dull and toneless mixture Of gray
and brown. Now it embraces every possible
warmth OF tint, SO much SO as TO make choice q
matter Of time and difficulty in many cases.
The prevalence of the red tie Of late years has
its own significance as showing the growing ap-
points to a new law of liberality in matters of
dress. There was once no appeal against the
orthodoxy OF black coats in the house of COM
MONS but the unwritten rule exists no longer
Members OF the stock exchange are
more conservative and resent any hst-
erodoxy in an unmistakable manner
Commercial men have their own laws and
abide by them with some txity. Society is.
however relaxing, and has been in the mood
for some time. One effect Of the changes that
are taking place is TO render the gilded youth
Of England somewhat uncertain as to how
they shall array themselves on special occa-
sious. Their experience and individual dis
erection are not always sufficient to guide them,
and there is considerable demand for a leader
Of undisputed social supremacy. How to dress
at the large and fashionable race meetings has
been problem exercising the minds of not a
few Of late. The rule used to be that on Cup
day silk hats and black coats we're indispen-
sable, while on the other days Of the various
meetings country costume met all requirements.
This no longer holds. for il has been infringed
several times recently by the very men who
most strictly abode by 1t some years ago. The
Prince Of Wales rule is simple enough. When
the princess accompanies him to any race meet
ing he wears strictly orthodox afternoon park
dress, but when no ladies are Of his party he
adopts the comfortable pot hat and country
suit. As the public does not know when the
princess 10 to be present, they cannot be guided
in the same way, and the result is a divergence
of garmenture that troubles the sensitive on
such matters.
The invitation Of an up-river vicar to boat
ing men to attend the services at his church
in their fannels il another indication Of the
prevailing spirit of hberality in dress. The
old restrictions seem to be gradually in course
Of removal, and there Is some danger that .
contrary extreme may in time be INDUCED in.
For instance, the presence OF man in q Nor
folk jacket in the stalls Of fashionable West
End theater the other evening gave rise to
some fears on the part of ladies present that
''the poor man had had no dinner" Had he
overheard the conversation he would have ex-
perienced no difficulty in comprehending the
implied rebuke. In Paris there has been .
movement to revive frills and embr oideries on
evening shirts, and more than one gommeux
has adopted the jabot Of lace, a little pleated
frill that ID familiar enough in the portraits of
the seventeenth century. Velvet facings to
evening coats have also been seen in Paris, and
it would not be improbable that the wearers
would ostracizs any stranger who should APP
pear even at club in postprandial hours in .
Norfolk jacket