The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-01-24
IN GENOA AND PISA.
Murat Halstead Visits the
Birthplace of Columbus.
THE BETTER CLASSES OF ITALY.
Ascent OF the Leaning Towsr-Cathe.
drals Adorned with the Spells
of the Crusaders.


larry happy, and the gulf of Lyons added
to its bad reputation. The ship was so
light that the moment wave ticked her
she jumped. With the dawn the waters
subsidized, and those opposed to the gulf of
Lyons said the fact that we were in the
guilt of Genoa accounted for the change
for the better. There was enjoyment in
looking upon the southern shore of
France. The grim mountains, with cIus-
tiers of white houses that according to APP
pearances, were built on the edge
of the water, seemed to rise from it
ike exhalations; in fact, they are
at a considerable elevation Nice was an
attraction, and Cannes. Mentone, Monaco,
followed, and after a time, when we had
touched Italian waters, San Reno. TWAS
a surprise to see the mountains so close to
the sea, and the slopes, that have such a
sunny fame, SO meager. Above the range
of white towers were snowy dots, that are
the villas that great folks occupy, upon
the theory that this air always has III it
in the months of frost the balm of
summer. "How far is it TO Genoa"
Forty minutes-nine miles" was the
reply; and there was added, from the
look of the cloud ahead, we shall go I'm a
rainstorm. There was sharp shower. but
it passed soon. ''Is that Genoa?" pointing
to whiteness that was spread against the
highlands right ahead. yes" And soon
the city was revealed; mountains showed
their peaks, and shoulders, and breasts,
through the vapor, and the whiteness was
resolved into vast structures, whose color
was that of the marble of Italy. The
breakwaters are exceedingly massive; the
lighthouse lofty; the ships numerous;
and Genoa is still The Superb. The
splendid word has belonged in all descrip-
lions of her for many centuries. and she
is not likely to lose it. The landing was,
as all landings are, tedious, and to some
extent vexatious. 1t is the hour of import
ance for stewards and custom house
officers, and above all, for the
silent figures in cooked hats, wrapped
in cloaks. who posed in the most heroic
manner and did nothing for anybody.
These stately persons must represent the
dignity of the grand old land SO burdened
with history, and that is politically new
country. Dealing with men who speak
neither English nor French, nor yet Ger
man, is sad task for the average Amer
lean; but patience as to time and will
ingness to dispense small coins Will work
wonders. L am informed that the custom
house officials are not wholly insensible to
the influences of civilization, and some of
them consented, upon being confronted
with material arguments, to allow the
trunks to pass unopened. It was some
time before I could find anybody
who understood anything. New YORK
ladies were disguised when told that the
Genoa ,custom-house was really not quite
as bad as those of Liverpool and New
York. The hackmen are about the same.
My man waited for me six minutes, and
rested upon that circumstance a claim for
double fare, which was disallowed by the
porter of the Hotel Isotta with a degree Of
disdain in excess of the provocation. The
group on the landing was full of pictures
groups with dashes of high color-lttle
donkeys with ponderous collars and carts
with enormous wheels. There ought TO be
movement in Europe to prevent tho
further destruction of animals with
monstrous collars and the overpowering
dimensions of the wheels and shafts OF
carts. At once the admirable pavements of
Genoa are manifest. They are solid as alb
solute beds of rocks, and the chances are
they have not been disturbed in hundreds
of years. The streets are very narrow.
There are few sidewalks; and the pave
ments are cleaner than the fronts of the
houses. In the hotel one could appro-
priately dream of dwelling in marble halls.
The floors and stairways are marble, some
of it very handsomely wrought. The ele-
vator was q singular sort of chariot, look
ing like a Sedan chair. The conductor
did not ride in it, but was a boy
in red jacket and brass buttons
who pulled lever and stopped it
at the right place. The rooms were
as il hewn in the rock; and the French
style of things was noted; no gas; no cleo
tricity in the rooms, only candles of in
credibly small power; no soap; beds so
marrow as TO afford no great contrast with
the berths of the ship. So singular is the
adjustment of the beds and clothing that
getting UP in the middle of the night and
remaking the alleged bed must be a cere-
mony all strangers are expected to observe.
One longs for the broad beds of the Liver
pool hotels. They are (if one may be al
lowed twist Of expression) broader than
they are long.
Genoa is the chief commercial city of
Italy, does five times the business Of the
more populous Naples; has improved
greatly within this generation; has good
water, and is in its administration marked
by energy and high intelligence. Perhaps
she has not yet seen the days Of her great
est commercial prosperity. Her history
extends from the Crusades to the Holy
Sepulchre TO the Garibaldi eKped ton
the crusade that liberated the two Sicilies
and prepared for the unity OF Italy.
The arrival of the Fulda was an event
that greatly interested the Genoese. One
hmm, frcI nd e~4xr
America disturbed the even tenor of mat
tiers and things. The table d'notes of the
city were lively, and We Fulda folks
thought we made stir in the streets.
The Genoese are much concerned about
our Worlds fair and il appears they are
TO hold one of their own, beginning the list
of next June, and lasting five months.
The two palaces of highest historical dis
tinction (next to that of the Dorias), the
Red and White, are TO be connected by
bridges and the municipal hall IS TO De
Joined 10 these, and the ancient antiquities
are 10 be displayed. There are tons of rare
old silver locked up for generations, and
relics OF all sorts OF the old days to be
brought forth. 1t is said there are great
treasures To be made know TO the world.
The Columbus house belongs TO the state,
and has been closed a long time. The
first story is boarded up. 1t Is to be re-
stored to the condition il was in when
Columbus lived there, and the relics OF
the man and MS family and his portraits,
so far as possible are TO be collected and
shown in the old place. This house is the
one thing that is authentic. Ii is not
claimed that this house was the birthplace
Of Columbus, but he undoubtedly lived in
it when 8 boy and young man. The
records show that il vas in possession
of the father Of Columbus for many
years, and up to the time when the
-
age The street on which this his
f0ric honse Is situated ia 40 narroW and