Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-11-25


| In the first place it requires one yard and
half Of strong silesia or drilling for waist
lining. This should be cut into the form
shown by the diagram, but the darts should
not be cut until it is fitted To get the
proper dimensions put the material, doubled
lengthwise, on II table, and having the dia-
gram before you measure the length of the
| waist from the neck to the bottom. Make
dots at these places along the dou bled sell
wage. Measure the length from shoulder
to waist and the distance from the straight
line from shoulder to front. keeping the
same distance TO bottom; then mark the
darts, which must vary according to the
figure Of the person. If very stout they
must be about two inches across at the
waist line if slender, one to one and half,
and reference to the diagram will show
the form. The back and side body pieces
are To be measured from top to waist line.
When the lining is cut, allowing at least
three inches margin beyond the seam, it
should be basted and tried on the seams
being left on the outside. The filter should
then take in" the seams and pin them
until the whole lining fits perfectly snug
in all parts. hut binding in none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it off and
iron it. so that the pins will make marks
and show just where the seams should 60
Then the lining should be rebasted, fol-
lowing the line of tie pins on the outside
of them, and the pins then pulled out
Try the lining on again, right side out
When the fit Is perfect the lining should
be ironed again, the seams being laid apart
this time. and after this the basting stitches
should be clipped so that the different
pieces will fall apart without being pulled
The lining, with an allowance for seams
of at least one inch all around, can now be
laid upon the outside material and pinned
so that it cannot slip and be cut. Care
must be taken that all the figures run one
way II the goods are figured or the nap IL
of wool, and that the selvage edge comes
straight with the front of the waist The
outside should be allowed trihe larger
than the lining. rs it is often of goods that
will fray.
Baste the lining to the outside with great
care, for much of the beauty and smooth
ness depends upon the basting. The lining
should be held upward so that it may be
just the least bit looser than the outside.
The basting stitches should follow the out
line Of every separate part of the basque
and up both sides of each dart. More de-
pends upon care in basting than people
usually suppose
When all the outlines are properly basted
with stitches not more than one-fourth of
AN inch long, turn the front over and baste
as designated by the pins. A very full
bust will require shaped plait in front,
az per diagram, in the lining only, and
sometimes for quite stout ladies the front
line will need turning in quite deep at
neck and waist line, but the pinholes will
show just how much is required.
The buttons go on the left side and the
buttonholes ON the right, and the lap for
these should be deep enough to have the
buttonholes cut in the doubled place
Leave the under lap fiat and sew a strong
piece OF tape along for the buttons
When this Is done, baste the darts. be-
ginning the seam from the ton taneripg
From, m in,narcant,h,a ,o;nt rha darts
should never ~. vsry high ths G haos G one ~
snouIu neVer oe very hieh' .ne pack one
being an inch higher than the front, and