davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

with the berett.d wavy cords. f had . sweep;
ing skirt, exauisltely hung am tringed out a.!
along the faring lower. ed &c nth ruching oi
lace over an edge OF feathers. The ioiued
Empire belt shortened the waist 10 me
bust and tho modest neck had = laii
OF priceless lace. gathered in TWO iriiis.
hight OF diamond swallows, cleaned IN tne
lace across the bust A single golden daEget
with a diamond hilt sparkled in the MIR. lhat
was ALL yet that was the one gown when YOU re-.
mem bered among all tho gorgeous ana Costly
creations. And at the flower show TWO young ng
girls stood Mt the entrance studying tne uIe .S
pageant. Home made" Fourteentrh, ;,h a.
liked over" last years" and fiith ave
nue.. but very bad" such, were Iheir com
ments as the ladies passed. Suddenly. tne[e
entered tall and slender woman an IN olack;
The gown was silk. henvy, corded. ana
lustrous. with bands OF velour heantnR pa n
OF glossy black fur around tne suge
4 copc of the Henry H. pattern. torlnea OF Two
CIRCLES one 81 heavy brocaded SILK WIN NeiSet
ieayus yeined witt, Jet in the design. the other
ri niain velvet embroide Tered with Jet IN a pat
tern' Both were lined with the royal color
sacred TO kings and prclates. eminence rur-
nIo. The hat was of velvet. with SOFT crown
and n odiing piumos fastened with buckles OF
,nwels that srarkled with IRE unknown to
tbo Iihjnestones OF commerce. Straight from
Paris" said one OF tho girls How 10 YOU
tnowY" asked the other. Oh. by tho atmos-
nhere," That is the point, 1t Is the air. the
atnos phere, that the apostle OF fashion can
not teach to tho multitude that tho woman
without the dress instinct never knows she
lacks.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

lVpU y. - i'H,' '''lr b''roorn'.
CrIrvAlrU,. Mexico. Nov. Z. Tho State and
general Governments ar" very much alarmed
UvrI III" Indian troubles IN Il" western part OF
TIA. state. it, IA" sierra Nair" MountaI rs:
ArrOldIU. IA" reports which have reached
hare Outing The las, few DAVIS the lhIui lnd-
ans have been greatly accused by u" whole
s.Ir mnssnrr" uf th"ir uriEhhor and
friendly lbe at Tomph.e hy Govcrnmcnt
troops. Til. ret. 'aoI" Ial,iS IN tho VAL
l"ys Of son 1rn aud Chihuahua. arc lnay-
In. thoir { Irlu- aNi ranches. an! with their
WIS AVID "lNl'l IN AZ" Gatl"ring ~ an ap:
pointed vpnhr. ru',S IN ~" mountains north OF
Trinidad Wh"rr''hcy have discovered another
patron snir' ~ III, l"rsop p' u beautiful Nl"xi-
can cir! i.aHei ANITA hyra. whose !ather Is
sh"rEtrd
Saint Anita urge tho Indian worshppers to
make war gp'n III" M"AirnnS and to RECLAIM
the rich Mos inan lands in the iaIui Valley
which Inc Guh ernmcnt has taken from thnm.
There arr severed hWn ir"d Indian braves and
about 200 ignorant iirXjraus now preparing
Ia begin th,ir LcIi"latinns and wnr OF oxtsr-
miuntiuu. Thcynre nearly all we'll armed. and
are expected to tgglu their campaign as soon.
AS WiU Ell Set- III.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

or seven inches wide. wrinkle 1t to a fitted
belt. lenving ends OF tho velvet four inches
longer than the belt in tho back Fold back
two inches and shirr these double ends at
tho edge Of tho belt. leaving the ruflle
thus formed to stand out a little bit in a sort
OF n rosette. Make tho collar in the same way.
wrinkling 1t to band and shrrinE tho ends
back whore the collar should hook. In select
Ing the velvet ch2ose some striking color con-
all. Ono OF the rre;tiest dinner dresses seen
this season is one which has already done duty
as calling gown during the summer The
gown is a changeable brown and gold
affair with fine line of bronze In the stripe.
1t was short work to replace the long sleeves
with immense ,puffs Of the new violet velvet.
TO cut away tho neck and surround It with
violet velvet collar over one Of dead gold satin.
and to finish the edge OF the train with twist
Of velvet lined with geld and so arranged as to
gauze fan with golden sticks finish the costume
which a quick witted woman devised in an
emergency and fixed herself with the aid OF q
6eamStreSS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
ISostOu'a s.ixrd Club.

Fror, NE ~ ,i.tt0' lirI,~ democrat
BosToS. Nov 1.Among the new clubs Of
Boston Is the "lnity.' II club composed Of
men and women whose object is the further-
ancc Of art and also the promotion OF social
interests. Its members include large pro-
PORTION Of the artists Ut the city. and 1t inau.
Surut"s its second season this year by . water
color exhibition. orrnin. next week.
There are no lack of mems clubs and OF
womens clubs in Boston. as in other cities:
but tho club where mon and women moot is
a. rare a. are most ideal things IL this world.
The regulation womcn's club as a rather
drrary affair, as it j. now conducted. In
stead :" having pnrors. reading room. and
dining room always oIcn as is tho case
in ut any timo and meet each other. and
inyite friends and enjoy Informal socia-
bili,y. the women'S club unocks the doors
Of its portals for some one afternoon q
week when its members and guests assem-
he. and after rou,ln" business. carried on in
strict par !amentary ordcr. II paper s read and
discussed formally as at any public meet
ing. and then the cluh adlourns till another
week. 70 go through the same routine again.
This a.. ," all very well in some WAYS. but ID
is not the CAL pleasure that club life should
render possible.
The Unity Club here starts out on other lines.
1t is first OF all club for men and women to-
Eether IT has secured Ideally beautiful rooms
on Arlington street. overlooking the public
gardens. II has Il fine gallery for picture
hangin-.a AMI it IS based on an idea that should
develop. rs the club grows stronger into 4 very
attractive and happy social centre.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

Of the National Needlework Guild. or perhaps
the Worlds Guild. urging upon every one the
necessity OF sewing for something. or other.
There 10 the President OF a club devoted to
social economics. and another representing 9
sunshine mission to encourage sweetness and
sweet without joining club. And over in
corner is an Austrian lady writing It all up
for q book on American women. You'd give
what she thinks of us. The old spirit
ri the Declaration q Independence has struck
the women and IL effervesces like champagne
when the cork pops. What docs It all mean
What is going to happen when they get con.
trol OF the elements and unite their forces?
round and find fault with thu way women do
things. lnst as they do now. and we, will fall In
love with them and In our secret hearts care
more Tor their admiration than for a front row
seat IN the very turrct OF flames citadel. That's
what Keeps IN" world balanced and the pole
And then tho ears slowed. the guard
shouted. All OUT" aud the gates banged.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

skirts. worth's dresses have four narrow
cores in the front and sides closely
fitted above. with faring hounce
below. cut out in half circle. This
founce naturally forms folds that broaden
out toward the wider lower edge. Three
breadths slightly sored toward the top form
the back OF these demi-traned skirts. Double
skirts will probably be the next development
for already there are seen skirts composed
Of two flounces cut that they are narrow at
the waist and wide at tho feet. Another
noticeable tendency is toward widening the
skirts Mt the bottom by means Of slorinG
ranels lot in at the sides differing in color
from the skirt. The favorite idea in trimming
Just now is for bands in place of the RULES Of
last season. Sometimes six or seven OF these
bands are used in graduated widths
and separated by considerable Spaces
SO that the trimming extends to the
knees. Folds OF velvet headed with fur or
witt Il narrow Persian gimp are much used
and very. effective. blue serge dress seen
recently had nine rows of military braid about
the skirt. each row narrower than the one he
!ow.it. The Jacket waist had Il finish of the
braid and opened over "A nlastron Of whit silk
brocRded with Dresden figures. Tho sleeves
OF this gown were slashed at the top in the
old Venetian fashion. and showed pullings
through Of the light silk with its bright
flowers.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

and paler tints. all Of the Same color. And IN
wool the tartans and reps. tho cordurettes and
erinkled crepons. and the rough Harris cloths
you can recognize by the faint odor Of peat, II
you know what that ie. II you do not. you can
guess at 1t from its resemblance to the aroma
OF the bonflres OF leaves and brush In which
Young America has been expressing his de-
light during the past week.
And besides the knowledge Of fabrics there
must be the artists feeling for color. the COM
plete mastery OF tho theory Of harmony which
makes one daring In combinations Of danger
Gus tints that are like the passages in the
themes OF great masters where the chords
hover on the brink Of dlscord. yet never crash
over. Purple and blue. pink and scarlet,
green and blue. may be reconciled II played
upon by the masters touch. And moro than
this. the analogy between color and character
must be studied out and considered In the
choice Of costume. 1t is because SO few women
understand this that tho great ma ority look as
II they had borrowed their things. There must
DO harmonious and close relation between
the gown and its wearer in the idea OF good
dressing. The Heros and Helens must have the
splendid reds and yellows: the shy little Puri-
tan must be n symphony in gray: the rosebuds
and the rare. pale Margarets" dress IN the
garb q purity; And to this feeling for color
ciously clothes without concealinE the out
lines Of the llEure and the few exacgerations
ulated. add breadth or height Or circum-
haa then as the .fs 6ns about It
the constant change ana alteration which
demand neyer-ending study. The fundamen;;
fashion are ilxed and upalterahle, In the do
main OF the mode they change with every sea-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
A SUBTLE SCIENCE.
Has Fashion Grown to be Fine,
Involved. and Intricate?
TWO BREEZY Condolences.
One Girl Has Hunted Work; the
Other Philosophers on Women.

Autumn Turn,ns to winter brings anrh
Dresses. and. Tor Small Girls. Dainty
Gowrs-The Double SKIRT VIII Som bio
In yoeue-Pittul, Pock e,ie.s Woman and
Her straits-The Winter Parry md It's
New Dances-The Queen. Ostrich-hadr
Tennyson and Her Music woman"
Evoiutions of Form and Tint. ana TIC"
Higher W ork at College Hall and f"r""
-In,erestinx Information.
To be fashionable woman In TINS year o'
grace eighteen hundred and nlnety-two "
profession involving something pes'ues '"'
cultivation OF ones vanity. the STUDY Oh so'n''
thing more than fashion plates.
Va, f,sbion has grown to be a subtle science.
--i,b nne difrerontia involved theories and In
tr,cat. nrocesses. 1t may not be demonstrated
nv formuln and axiom. 1t must DO imbioed
through tho intuition developed to mo
acuteness OF perception. tolerant breanth OF
reasonableness. IA quick sense OF tho eterna'
fitness OF things. 1t involves study OF tex
tiles OF which tho variety Is endless this sea-
90, and theyery n wost are the oldest revived.
II 4, almost an occ equation in itself Just to keep
track OF the now designs in silk this
yea- There il tho bouretted bengaline that
one read so much about in the fashion arsi-
cles How many women know 1t In the shopsT
II has heavy irregular or wavy cords crossing
IT'S lustrous ribbed surface. and is the fsvorite
trimming for cloth gowns In combination with
velvet. "Shot velvet" that figures SO e1tsn-
sively in fashions vocabulary. is simply velvet
with the pile OF one color. the web Of another.
"Russian velour" belongs to the same family.
but has q deeper and co.rser pile. more messy.
and Ia woven in lines upon background OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
The Tragic Fate of EIoping Lovers.


THE most pathetic scene ever Witnessed"
said Judge L. 70. tawthorn Of Texas. was q
third %. n century ago. but it is as piuin to my
eyes to-day ~ II then. We had been
bothered lay hors. thieves down on the frOn-
tier. and yon know what that means in a wild
country. \ crowd If uS started out after the
sroundreS. and Iust i,"ior" We r"nched the Rio
GranIt We saw two hOrsrnlrn OFT to the left,
VIII" acted susr'!"usy After them We Went.
and it was \ pretty race for awhile till they
Disappeared urhlnI c!ump of trees.
We had shr to stop them, and when
got IN sigh. again we found that
one horse ha, D."n shot. and thew had desert-
ed him. While butii Wcr" riding the other.
They were evidently. M"Nic4ns-n man ana I.
hoy and tn" mau shpw"t !ht. turning and
firing al US !ln,liy hitting our deputy sheriff.
We gained on them lnpldly. and presently
w"ll-,irnrt"d NJ" Int th"m ull IN n heap.
Whom W" reached thcm tho boy was
kne-ln.. in front Of TIE living Mexican sob
hnG and m"anngAs II h"r heart would break.
while her EaiI, wniril had fnleisSrom her cap.
fell below her waist. l. was cas" Of eops-
m"nt. and they hnl taken us for her fathers
servants. whlla We had been equally stupid
and had taken Thorn for horse thieves. When
he hogan IT, gasp sn" drew Il little pearl- ham
died revolver. and hrfor" any on" could think
( stopping her placed tn" muZzle under her
'nr ard tell int his arms. a corpse, No, ""
ever heard who they were. We buried them
and went after the horse thieves
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
INTERESTING FORMA7ION.

A firm OF machinists in Scandinavia EMPLOYS
n young woman agent who's" territory covers
the whole of Europe. She recently arrived in
londcn direct from Moscow an! On route for
Melbourne. Tho woman comm erca traveller
is frequently met on tine Continent. on" Lon
don firm employing several women as travel.
lers and many manufacturers Gavin. one or
moro women rs agents.
From ono town in the Union cones ( lie re-
port Of club Of women whose members
pledge themselves t. g t. the Fair noTt year
in Il simple. servcentlc gown. easy and com
iortabio IN fit. md MnhnmIsr"d by eEtra
Esnx.n Of TKr ito hu n" S aG M he oh nr
tlture Of nerve force. this club will cnloy a
mrNimun q: sightseeing.
The colorcd women Of New Orleans have
sent Judge Tourg"e n silk lap robe Of which
the material has been grown. spun. and made
w and d"lir;uc!r ."nhroid~red blythe wm!ii"n.
AS II token Of their gratitude FOR Judge Iolr-
gee uNo.is on ehalf Of their race.
A gracious and generous Lady in Ventura.
CAL. has caused to b" planted about her
grounds heuutifuF hedge Of hell trore. 200
feet long. Tn" public walk is three I"ct below
the level OF her garden and on tho banks
uhov" wires support h. plants. winch grow to
= hrIght "r six feet. Their droolin: niInrhas
}@ nar Ma Eoom vi The Will ,e an rhi"n e rassng
M their hnnn- With flowers. lad".. break tho
fragrant sprays i'r their belts. ana -"n'!"nen
pick them fur hputUnniar"s, for IA" owner.
Mrs. Shephcrd. announces that IN" heliot:ope
belongs Ia the town and its people
Mrs. A. NJ Manl;ly has bcGuoathed to the
city Of Washington a large sum OF money for
the erection ard maintenance OF home for
destitute women, ms a m"mor!al I, her
mother. II m"runrr OF hel husband Shn mas
wilind to Tia. Childr"n's Aid society $4,000
for he erection II Il home.
Frances iloigsOn Burnett says that sho has
made up stories ever since size ran rrmemhcr.
and has written them ever SIM" sh" was I
years I'D. She pick.d berries and sold them
Ia oAtaIu tho Iu>tage for forwarding her llrst
printed story the PUBLISHERS.
1t is suggestive Of the rec ignition which
dramatic talent receives in London that the
baby daughter Of Lady CRANKY at her recent
Christening had II duchess Tor one G"d-
mother and an actress Tor the other with no
less parsonage than u {, Arthur Baliour for
the godfather. Tho little maid was christcned
in the gown wo.n Gy all tho old Dukes Of HUT
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
VONIS AID HEE HiGWEH Work.


~. r,e,t even: OF the 1ny in notifies for
Inv 800, ~ ,,.,', .,,r
women is the passage o' ''io Mullc'laI Hu'-
fra.e bill in the Vermont House Of Representa-
,i,n ,o ,,r,, r,,,oritv nf 14utoS, Laura
~ W w a., W L ;, ,Lt
Moore Secretary VI t"o W. ~ 49, "''''S '''"'
tho Vermont men are rs X Ind and Genc"ou, AZ
ara IN, men OF Wyoming or Kansas. and
80 ''' $50, =, a. ;,. ..
whenever W" can ger enough "' III" ITEM H"i"
int"a Lr:i nture Vernon, women viii receive
justice at their hands Clos" upon Tins sue
crs-. however, comes news 81 defeat N New
/ra!and. where the lnnG-"F!tat"! t,iIl to t,iv"
MSS. Nno Of tho main pulnt, in the dispute
was the, UNNECESSARY rrov!so Inserted bv me
uti"'r '' i,"oI ~ ,,,im" IN rcrsnn 10 Tia
booths: Tor whenever women are allowed to
vote they are ready 10 loiloW IN" ruio'.
-
A traveller in tile TrahHvaai has met ms
t.r;ous rhieftaipesa. ono MajaIie, who claims
;;n,, az l,ilsr IJ,,,,rJ,, ..CI,-
to 10 mo oli"'ha' "' i''ei nassau" cue
Who Must-l'e-Obeyrd. 81" Is IN ancient
dame. strangely d"rrrrit. am! evidently not II
KaiIir. for sho has u tran"ptIcntly white com
IIexion. bright bIao eyes, and long saow-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

stinct. as birds fly. Given q man to dance with
and music to dance by and every girl glides
because for this she was crented. Indeed, Rus.
kin names dancing as ono Of the cardinal vir-
tues OF girlhood. and claims that the peculiar
the fam GUS Fra Angelica Is due to tho Floren-
tine dancing girls which the great master
surround and guard his Virgin and child
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
4 Trleniion- IN ,Icr Cabin.

IFI4 n F'l0I ITII N<1nfi,
Perhaps but one vessel a''nat-he police tug
Stuhl"y can oaSi nj telephone connection
with tho world Al largo. \ regular telephone
has a place On tir' all If the main cabin. and
when at al" hor Of IN" street tho Instrument
Is "unneci"! with 4 Switchboard on the wharf
hv "A heavily In situated wire. When thus con-
nrr'nr W." "', m ,n,. "H any paft OF .ns
telephone without leaving the vessel.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

But let lis not close this chapter on skirts
without description Of the new bias skirt
Oh! way. Fancy Il lining of the usual shape:
about his is wonud -, bias Of cloth. the, edge
crossing the front If the dress ,iiagonally and
hooking over on tn" back. with the corner
hanging unia-,"neA about half IL yard. The
bias Of which tho skirt is made is edged all
around with the trimming. which in the gown
described WAS OF jet. beaded in II pattern UPON
a band Of red silk two-third- Of an inch in
width. snt III ah"v" II narrow roll OF P"rs an
roriuret:e In red and black. and the bodice.
folded across the figure d!a.onally. ike the
rod six beaded in an all-ovcr design with
the lot and nor,ered WIKI fur.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

Empire models for little maids, rnrty. frocks.
vet and might 10 reproduced with almost ms
good effect in wool. The girdle is Of point ap-
silk, and TIL" cuffs are of the same materials.
The little waist Is SHRED several times about
aII ars the corde1siiS holiday fro"is' Win tbe
pulled sleeves and big shoulder frils Of lace
or chiffon that are worn over fine white
guimpcs OF muslin or lawn.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
DOUBLE AKIETS 10 CONF SIyE
They Are IN the Line Of tn. Two.houncsd
McNeIopmcnt Of Gown.

In the elaboration and cccentricity OF the
bodice ono Ia inclined to overlook tho gradual
but none the less decided change which is
taking place in the skirt. Without being a
prophet, or tho son OF prophet. it is easy to
foretell that the reign OF tho hoop in some
form Is again at hand. Already little horse.
hair pads are worn on the hips by eXt rcmely
slender women. the bodice is growing shorter
wasted. the skirt flares ever wider and
wider about the edge. Rouff. the Paris
dressmaker. uses ilvo breadths OF goods in his
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
COINS FOR SMALL GIRLS

Home Made Dresses Are Hnpplest In Eject.
Homo made dresses for little girls. like
homo made dainties. are always happiest in
effect. Here is pretty model. for the mothers
who like to sew. OF scarlet Amazon cloth. with
q finish Of Russian sttching in black silk. Just
Q simple cross-stitch pattern. which has below
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
NEW GOWNS ARE COSTLY THIS YEAR,

hut 1t IL = Favorable Season for Making
Over Ola Ones.
II this Is an expensive year for buying new
Rowns.it is most encouraging time for fixing
over old ones. Cut of the train Of q last years
dress 30 that not more than two inches rest on
the ground Cut of the waist and hook the
skirt M over it. Put in full mutton leg sleeves
OF velvet to the wrist II the dress Is for day
wear; make Empire pufTs OF velvet IL 1t is for
evening use. Take a strip of bias velvet six
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13
AUTUMN TURNING 10 WINTER

Brings On Fur Trimmiuss Ga All Manner
orGarments.
The merging OF autumn into winter is sig
nalized by tho appearance Of fur-bordered
garments and fur trimmings on all manner OF
gowns. from the morning neglige OF silk to the
evening toilet OF gossamer tissue. Most pic
turesuUe among these arc tho evening cloak a
of tho Empire and 1870 models A sort OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

land and In her mothers bridal veil. Her
sponsors we're tho duchess OF Portland and
Mrs. Beerbohm Tree. who stopped playing
~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

To celebrate the christening OF her only
daughter and her own 34th birthday. the En-.
press Of Germany gave 100 sets OF baby cloth-
ing to tho maternity homes in the empire.
and the Emperor released 400 women i'm.
prisoneu for various offences.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-11-13

Lima, Peru. has paper devoted to litera-
ture. politics. and science which Is edited by .
woman. the Sonora Chlorinda Matte de Tur.
nor. Another prominent South American
woman is the Sonora do CaSsoratc. an artist OF
OF the creole type which will soon he known
only from tho records OF history. promises to
make her famous
Friendship Garden" that Is tho name OF
tho latest fanriful conceit with which tho
beautiful Lady Brooke amuses herself There
Is nice Old World ring about the tito. and q
pretty attructiyrncss in tho idea. for within
tho borders Of tlIs garden grow only such en-.
during plants and shrubs AS those near ana
dear to tn" heart Of liz, mistress have planted
there. Ono Wonders If any OF the SanirinEham
lilies that til" gentle Princess Of Wales loves
are planted within tho enclosure as yet
Tho industrial exhibits at the Mechanics
Fair in Boston include tho establishment
of a woman printer. in active operation.
an exhibit from the laundry OF the Homo for
Incorporate Women. 4 display Of factory
work 10y women. OF silk culture from the
womans prison. and other industries carried
on by women. such "a tho culture and pre-
serving of small fruits and of bee keeping.
Forty years ago Ohcrln admitted Antoinetts
Brown and I.ettce Smith to study in its thso-
logical department. an innovation so radical
that even liberal uherlin whose charter Sc
cured to women tn" right to study In all Its de-
nHrtmcntS. was isarfui of results. On single
sunday last month. in the city OF Denver.
thrtv-iive pnlpItS were occupied by as many
regularly ordained women minister's