Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-31

on any of them, except the macadamized
roads after rain, when the dust forms s
slight paste All the streets in European
cities seem to the American fresh from his
own blessed and beloved country marvel
ously paved and clean.
The Modern Part of Rome.
The first impression modern Rome makes
is that it is Partisan. The houses in form
and color and the streets in style, are quite
like Paris, but the boulevards are lacking,
and the asphalt. The italian names and
occupations have becoming glitter on
the signs The wine shops are so numerous
they ought to afford ample facilities for the
consumption of liquors Since 1870 the
town has been very largely rebuilt. The
most conspicuous quarters are so new as to
have an air of freshness and smartness.
This is not the Rome of the Popes, any
more than Paris is the city OF the Bourbons.
Considering the shattered state of the an
tiquities, l should think there were enough
Of them; and the most venerable are cared
for, and things >, 600 wears old are looked
after with more concern than we of the
United States generally bestow upon the
graves and tombstones OF our grandmothers
and grandfathers.
Roman geography and topography are
still mysterious TO me. 1 have TO stand for
some time with nv left side toward the sun
that the Dome of Peter regulated the move
ments of the heavenly bodies, but it does
not seem to do so, and have seldom been
able to see il until close upon 1t; but L have
not been able TO set out TO 60 anywhere
without finding the column of Trajan which
stands in a low place, without attractive
surroundings, and shows among other things
how successive LAYERS of ruins have
changed. indeed elevated the surface of the
earth. The column Of Napoleon, on the
Place Vendome, Paris, is close imitation
OF that of Trajau. / cannot say that there
is an immense impressiveness about it.
The Approach to st. Peters.
7 took p cab and said in French and En-
glish-and companion said in Spanish and
German-"Go 10 ST. Peters" We ratified
along for awhile, when q formidable old
round castle appeared on the northern side
of the Tiber, which we were crossing by an
old bridge adorned with stained marble
figures The castle of St. Angelo was be-
fore US, and there it was Belisarius once
beat back the Goths Still no glimpse of
st. Peters Another turn, and we were
before the Cathedral, the long parenthetical
colonades on either hand, the mass of the
building concealin~ the dome. The ap-
proach to St. Peters must be the finest in
the world, unless that of the Capitol at
Washington exceeds i'll mean the ap-
proach from Pennsylvania avenue.
The front Of St Peters has been pictured
until all civilized creatures on the European
and American continents know how it
looks. The front at first view is less mag
nIfcent than had anticipated. and the ap-
proach had an unexpected grandeur. 1
fancy the facade should be loftier to perfect
the harmony, but do not wish to be under
stood to be criticising or complaining, and I
hone it will not be thought impertinent to
be candid about impressions though to the
learned and the artistic they may seem
crude. The obelisk, crowned with the
bronze cross, is at the central point of the
space enclosed by the colohades that frame
the massive picture. On the right is the
huge palace of the Vatican, with its 10000
rooms and treasures of priceless art, and the
residence of the popes.
Not to Overshadow the Cathedral
The masters vino handled this great SUBJ
feet did not mean thRt the Vatican build
ings should be obtrusive. They had to be
extensive, but the requirement was that
thew should not rival in architectural at
tractiveness the sacred edifce. They are
simple and modest as possible, considering
their bulk. The slopes and steps by which
YOU reach St Peters are easy; and as you
reach the doors the gigantic proportions of
all around YOU become more and more clear.
q
and enter The effect is startling-not SO
much that the scene is one of srupendous
proportions, as because il is so brilliant 1
knew the edifice was enormous, but
had no conception of the splendors of its
marbles, Its mosaics its ceilings, its tombs,
Its altsrs.
Volumes have been and may we'll be
written Of these. Looking around ST.
Peters is like studying landscape in the
do hoo
the way to Chamoni, that the rocks at
certain plsce are 1000 feet high; but you
cannot believe il, though it is certainly
true. The scale by which the eye measures
the mountains is lofty, like themselves. So
with St Peters. You can hardly under
stand that TIE dome is as high as history
tells you. Some of the monuments to the
5Popes possess merit as works of art of the
highest order: others appear to be pompous
failures, but perhaps they would seem so
in any other position. 1t was surprise to
see the honorS paid in burial to the last of
the roval race of the Stuarts of England, as
well as TO see In the floor a stone marking
the place where the Cathedral of st. Paul's,
London. would come If taken into ST.
Peters and measured from the throne of
Peter. I shouldn't have thought ST. Paul's
so large in comparison with ST. Peters if it
had not been for this stone.
Prom an Artistic Standpoint.
Plus X. is not without honors in the
grand Cathedral; but unless there are yet to
be decreed for him distinctions he can
hardly be considered to have celebration
equivalent to his historical conspicuity.
However I noticed one fine portrait of him,
and there is s conspicuous white marble
tablet with an inscription relating to his
proclamation of the Immaculate Concep-
zion, and there are other tablets giving the
names OF all the members of the Ecumenical
Council. One of the features of the Csthe-
dral that is of greatest interest is the pillars
from the old Roman temples that are intro
'duced, and the mighty walls are storehouses
OF relics; but to know them as they are
marked takes more time than / can COM
manG. The hastv student in Rome is like
the philosopher on the seashore who gath
cred few pebbles and left the boundless,
the fathomless mysteries-the miracles of
art as of nature-unexplored, unsounded.
One turns away wearily and goes to the
Vatican, where sorrow that life is so short
and time so swift has keenness almost un-
known.
May / confess, without an admission of
utter incapacitv, that the Sistine Chapel is
disappointment? The work of Michael
Angelo nav be the grandest that mortal has
accomplished, but either the light is very
bad or there is some trouble with my sight
or faculty of comprehension. If he handles
the Supreme Being reverentially, 1 cannot
see that GOD appears half a dozen times
on the ceiling in attitudes that / fear are
uncouth, and we are asked to palpitate over
the amazing toreshortening of his figure;
and l find it difficult to behold with awe the
pulling of Eve from the side of Adam, or