Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-05-28

other any time before the Christian era, or
since, for that matter, for there is no change or
progress In this land. Today ia a thousand
years ago, and life ard all that goes to make it
mp are much the same. 1t is the spirit of the
country; the people would not have it other
wise, and the sultan has expressed only the wish
that he NAV leave his kingdom in precisely the
same condition that his grandfather left it when
he died. To the sightseer. with an eve for the
curious and interesting. this Is laudable I'M
6ertaking, for from his point of view Morocco
has charm that no other place can have. To
live in it for space of time is like living an
cient history. 1t would be Dissertation to change
ought of the place 1t would be like fitting a
pair Of arms to the Venus of Milo.
THE MOOR HIMSELF
Ds one Of the most interesting features Of his
tory and the part he has played in the develop
fnent of civilization is not a mean one. As an
architect and builder he stands almost I'M
tivaled and il has been said, with reason that
during the time that the MoOrs held Spain they
did more for that country than the Spaniards
have ever done. They are satisfied with life as
they have received it from their forefathers and
~ Ii for that reason, more than any other, that
they preserve the customs Of by-gone age and
make them the customs OF the present Here
0pon q coast that is in full sight OF Europe
there Is none of the spirit of unrest, no desire
Tor change, that makes life in some of the great
cities a rather uncertain quantity and May day
D time to be dreaded. ''Change and decay in
al around 1 see," wrote the hymnologist. The
decay may be here. but You must needs look
Elsewhere for the change. 1t would never do
10 visit Morocco for the purpose of criticising
and comparing. Even the American tourist
who Is said to have remarked after his return
home that Switzerland was all well enough in
bts way, but for scenery give him Illinois. would
probably realize that in Morocco he had found
country where life something different
from anything with which he YVES acquainted
and which could not be measured by the same
etandards as apply in the new world.
NORoCCo's CITIES.
With the exception of Fee. one Of the four
capitals of Morocco. and one or two other of
the inland cities, Tetuan Is perhaps the most
Interesting CITY in Morocco. Fee is 40 remote
from the cOas: and so difficult Of access as to
hold out few Inducements 10 the average
traveller and even Tetuan is well off the beaten
paths of travel Tangier il the place with
which most tourists. Who profess 20 know
Morocco, have had to do. and Tangier il but n
Few hours sail from Gibraltar. and is blessed
with good hotels and has in other ways felt The
touch OF a European civilization. Bat Tetuan
rs Mr.. kiplilg would say. il another story
The travellers VII" do 60 there usually 20 from
here on mule back. ths Journey taking n full
Gay, as the distance l. about fourteen leagues
seven OF which are said 10 be M steep noun
tains and the other even down The Other side
That Is the unexpected feature about the
scenery in this Ea~i OF North Africa it is about
A. rugged AMI mountainous as one can we'll
Imagine.
How WE WENT TO TEIUAS.
The STARS correspondent has been with a
party 10 Tetnar and We did not go By way of
Iangier. either. Had we known beforehand
what sort OF a t:iP : going TO be We shDulA
probably ne = have gone. and tins letter. like
most books q truNal rnslf.f haze hui 10.
count Of Morocco made up from q visit to Tan
gier. Having gone. however. nothing could
purchase the memory of our experiences. II
would take the pen OF a skiIlfGl writer TO chrou-