Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-06-05

it is hard inclined plane, that does not
fall in with the lines of the body, but swears
at them all, and cuts straight toward the
neck with threat of decapitation. Now q
woman, when she wears q turnover collar,
has it fashioned in such a way that its lines
flow with the adjacent lines of the throat
and shoulder. At least she does except
when in an occasional fit of alteration she
tries to initiate man. Here her taste proves
the superior. Don't scoff at this structure,
dear gentlemen, and say that you hate the
pretty. If you do, in such dislike bear
you company. But this is not a question of
the pretty, but solely of harmonious rela-
tions, thing that you hold to be vastly i'm
portant in other matters.
As to ties. The four-in-hand is the most
popular, but let it alone, friends. There
are several things the matter with it In
the first place sailor knot. which it virtu-
ally is, pre-supposes something to be strong
ly fastened, and no one will pretend that
the linen collar has any look OF being held
together by this tie. 1t Is too hopelessly
moulded, and the tie is too evidently use
less. 1t is lined and interlined, 30 that it
locks swollen. or like finger done up in q
bandage, and has not even the grace of pre-
tended use.
The appearance of use is the test of q tie,
and this quality is manifested by the puck
ers of the cloth as they pass into the knot
and emerge again. But what demented
brain originated the idea of stuffed tie?
Evidently it is intended for pure show. But
what q showi 1t has no beauty; it makes q
straight line down the front of the shirt and
causes the head to look as if held upon .
stick, like harlequin's wand.
The Utility ofs Pin.
Now, into this tie if you fastsn an orna-
mental pin, you complete an effect that Is
abominable beyond redemption. The pin Is
useless and you cannot place 1t anywhere
on the tie to make it look anything but
superhuous. If this tie says anything at
all, it proclaims itself securely fastened, and
the pin if there is there for show and show
alone; and therefore, though worn by the
most fastidious man, it cannot be anything
but vulgar Take time to think about this,
gentlemen.
It is significant to note that at present
every man of fashion ties his own crayat,
and takes care that the tie shows the
wearer's manipulation of it. This seems to
be movement toward getting rid OF the
stiffness that makes the ordinary four-in-
hand so ugly, and is an indication Of grow
ing taste.
The white four-in-hand, somewhat mar
row, is seen often on young men of the
Stock Exchange, but men of taste do not in
general wear white ties in the morning.
The flowing ascot is the fashionable scarf.
It is tied into the smallest knot possible
and below the knot is spread out over much
space. One might think this knot necessi-
tates narrow tie, but on the contrary the
tie is of extraordinary width, but of very
soft silk, and this is the secret of the fash-
ionable ascot. One needs to pay about 81 80
for tie to get the best effect, Dark and
rich colors are fashionable. The straight
tie is much worn by fashionable men of re-
fnement. From the standpoint of taste it
is one of the best ties made. 1t does not
carry the eye up and down the axis of the
body as the four-in-hand does, and asks at
tention alone to the knot, as a tie should.
With black clothes may be agreeably
worn ties having black grounds and lines
and figures Of color, aud colors so broken
may have considerable brightness. With
tan clothes black tie looks we'll; red with
tan makes too warm combination; but if
one must have color with tan choose very
much mixed, low tone green, one that
yerges on citron. ADA BAcHE-CoNE-