The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-07-17

'hitS-NcNo pHluCBS III ulllCTeHU UNITE VI
tho city. acquired either by inherit
tnnce. purchase or seizure. and devoted to
the entertainment OF foreign ENJOYS and
strangers OF consideration. When ENJOYS
were received In public audience In the Chehel
Stun. or Hall Of Forty Pillars. all business
was suspended for tho day: magnificent but
tedious ceremonial preceded and delayed tho
approach OF the nmba ssadors to the footstool
OF royalty: gorgeous handuets eliminated
In general intoxication; while In the
Great Square tho popuaco were fegaled
with the exhibitions Of wrestlcrs. fcnc-
ers. jugglers and ncrobats. with polo
matches aud puppct shows and with combats
OF animals. bulls. rams bufrnlos. wolves. and.
on great occasions lions and panthers. When
night fell fantastic fireworks illumined and
prolonged the festive scenes. We may add
that the favor and prestige acquired by for
eigners. md the latitude allowed 10y the LIBERAL
minded Abtas and his SUCCESSORS to tho Chris
tian religion. were eNcmrlined by the estab-
llshment OF churches Of tho PRINCIPAL monas-
Ito frnternities OF Europe. The Augustinos.
Cnrmelites. and Caruchns were allowed sep
arate quarters belonging to the crown in
1sfnhnn; the Jesults md Dominicans had con-
vents In one OF tho suburbs or tho various
factories. that Of tho representative OF tho
British East Indian Company was situated
In the Bazaar. near the Great Square.
Little alteration was experienced by Isfa-
han up to tho first quarter OF the
eighteenth century. when the virtues or
the dynasty having been snppod by long
course OF debauchery the capital and Its mon
nrch fell prey to the Afehnns in 1722. From
this shock and from the brutal savagery OF the
Afghan conquerors. who sacked and overturned
md defled out OF all recognition palaces and
avenues and gardens. or whatever Of beauty
a. Vra IN Lam NJ In fhA atty nm NM
recovered. Only once In our time has Isfahan
been favored by the presence Of u monarch.
Mr. CurZon begins his description OF Isfahan
by starting at the centre OF the Mechanism
or Royal Square. which is undoubtedly one of
the most imposing piazzas In the world.
1t was laid out and surrounded with buildings
by Shah Ahbas. The Kings palace the prin-
cipRl mosque and the Great Bazaar opened on
It. 1t was both tho scene Of the principal royal
pageants and tho nucleus OF civil life The
square ia 1850 feet long by 5:3 wide. 1t is
entirely surrounded except where the line
Is broken by mosque or palace by long
range OF brick buildings divided into two
stories Of recessed arches one above tue other.
Originally q row OF trees was planted all
around tho front OF those arcndes. and In front
OF the trees was q stone. edged canal filed
with water. There are now only few poplars
in the square. and the canal was dry when Mr..
Curzon saw 1t, q substitute being provided In
occasional fountains OF drinking water On
the western side OF the Meidan stands lofty
building in tho form OF a great archway
overlooking the square. and itself crowned
in the forepart by an immense open
throne room. or veranda. supported by
wooden columns. while the hinder pnrt
is raised three stories higher The archway
below this throne room is the celebrated Ali
Eap Gate whit ,k nno<t tyfa
inviolnble asylum from which none but
the sovereign could remove fugitive and
he by starvation only. Tho open portal
above was the most advanced portion OF the
royal palace the various courts and gardens
and pavIons OF which occupy an immense
space. estimated by Chardin as four and a
half miles in circuit. In this palace still lives
the Governo: OF Isfahan. but some OF it's courts
arc surrendered to public officials. or this
hugo structure the most famous feature Is the
Hall OF Forty Pillars. The origin OF this name
Is disputed. At present the loggia is supported
by twenty columns only. and Mr.. Curzon
has but little doubt that the deslgna-
ton is merely conventional title
intended to express size and maGnih-
cence. For this purpose the number chehel.
or forty. is In common use in Persia: for OK
ample the term forty lamps is comm only ap-
piled to European chandelier. The walls OF
this beautiful loggia were formerly covered at
the bottom with q wainscoting OF white mar
BILE painted and gldod and. above IL. beautiful
mirror work was act IN facets and panels.
for which tho Persian artifcers were Justly
! renowned The bulk OF this superb deco
ration Is now obliterated. but the throne room.
which stands behind tho veranda, was still in
tact when Mr. Curzon saw 1t: here the pris-
matte flash OF the mirror panels and meets
In 1lu oirtt nO iy gold I'D
and green on the cofrerrd ceiling. and the
honey combed vaul.ing OF the recess. pro-
duced sumptuous OBJECT Finally. behind the
throne room Is a great hall. 10 feet long by
As feet wide. adorned over almost the ontre
surface Of its walls by six immense oil paint
ings. three on either side Notwithstanding the
ignorance OF perspective. the III proportion
and tho angular stiffness, characteristic OF
Persian portraiture. these pictures have some
merit as works OF art, and are invaluable as
historical documents They transport us
straight 10 tho court OF Abhas and his success
sors. Mr.. Curzon hns very little doubt that
four OF them ut least nre the identirn! pictures
described by Chardin in 1870
From the palace one passes to another ex-
trnordinary feature OF Isfahan. tho Great Ave-
nue. that leads from the centre OF tho city for
distance Of 4.O5O feet to the bridge OF Ali Verdi
Khan. Its name, tho Chehnr Bagh. or Four
Gardens. is not derived from the gardens that
open out Of 1t. but recalls the fact that tho site
was originally occupied by four vineyards
which Shah Abbas converted into q splen-
did approach to his capital. o; all the
sights OF Isfahan this. 1t seems. is the
most pathetic In the decay Of its beauty. Mr..
Curzon tells Ms whnt Il wns and what II is. At
the upper extremity stood a two-storied pa.
vllon, connected by u corridor with the aerag.
lilo Of the palace. 80 as to enable the ladies' OF
the harem to gazc unohscrvcd upon tho scene
below. Water. conducted in stone channels.
ran down the centre OF tho avenue. failing In
| miniature cascndcs from terrace to terrace.
and was occasionally collected In great square
or octagonal basins where crossroads inter
vened. On either sido OF the central channel
WAS row OF chenars and paved pathway for
pedestrians Then occurred n succession OF
open narterres, usually planted or sowed Next.
on either side was II second row OF chennrs.
between which trees and the flankinG walls
was raised causeway for horsemen The