davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

breathed and weakens her muscles. She
should take exercise to strengthen the
abdominal muscles and reduce the fat.
The Accordion Plated Skirts.
The dressmaker insists that the stout
woman must have skirts smoothly gored.
This is because, according to prevailing
fashion. if full the fullness would have to
be massed round the hips into binding,
while the outline round the bottom is kept
more or less close. But the fact, neverthe-
less, remains that plated garments give
vertical lines, and if properly managed
would better conceal stoutness than gored'
ones. Never, to nay knowledge, has Miss
Russell approached so near to looking
majestic as when she donned an accordion
plated skirt and accordion-plaited wing
sleeves
A costume of the sixteenth century shown
at Fig. illustrates this point and also fur
n1shes q suggestion for stout wonan's
dressing gown.
The plaits begin on the shoulders and fall
with an outward sweep to the foot, entirely
concealing oversize. In another dress of
the same period, given beside it will be
found another good suggestion. It has the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

the Greek Venus. The lanky woman is as
far from this ideal as she is who is broad.
Moreover her defect is less agreeable, less
comfortable with beauty. And right now,
Miss and Mrs. Stout, is grain of comfort
for vou. Walker, in his Analysis of
Beauty, reminds us that if too great breadth
is inelegant, too great height is unfeminine,
and so Dronounces it a greater misfortune
for woman to be over tall than over
broad. Over stoutness is an excess of the
nutritive system, and the nutritive type of
beauty has softness and voluptuousness
peculiarly feminine, and so is the most for
givable of defects.
How shall the stout woman dress to make
her form appear normal?
Let us see how the actresses do IL. A
large proportion of actresses are stout;
their mode of life tends to make them SO,
and yet to be beautiful is part of their pro-
fession. How does their dress conceal
their size and produce the effect of normal
proportions?
Only a~Matter of Lines.
The leading stage dressmaker Of New
York lays down the rules as follows: Hori-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

figure. Thus, place comb in the hair not
at one side but directly above the middle of
the forehead. This fact is illustrated by a
foulard gown. 1t is of changeable surah
broken by white dot clusters with trimmings
of plain surah. The plain silk is gathered
in straight line down the front, and sash
of 1t borders the pointed waist, is tied in
front, and falls thence to the feet, weighted
with heavy fringe. A Russian blouse effect
is given by slashed bloused skirt added to
the waist.
Bernhardt in the chapel scene of her
"Joan of Arc" gives beautiful instance Of
the use of the median line to helghten moral
effect When she enters the chapel her
sword hangs diagonally at her side, but
after the impressive conservation of herself,
and she turns again to the audience her
scabbard has been moved round exactly in
front and the sword, with its cross handle,
now marks upon her armor a vertical line
This subtle touch adds greatly to the SOL
emnity Of her appearance.
The princesse gown has much favor for
the stout, as all its lines are vertical It is
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

They give q series of points of high light
and shadow, which enrich the work nearly
as much as carving, without great e1-
pense. Care should be employed in using
them, however, on panels IT they are
glued directly to the panel itself, the shrink
age of the wood across the grain of the
panel is liable to throw off the mouldi ngs
which run at right angles to it. These
mouldings, however, may be safely glued to
the heavier moulding outside.
As in all other items of finishing house,
better effects and more harmonious ones are
secured if the mantels and freplaces are
planned and arranged for with the design
Of the house.
In altering old houses it is wise to think
twice before deciding to pull out old work
to make room for new. Many of the older
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
A TABLE FOB SILVER
Il the Latest Fad of Those Who Have Any
thing to Put on 1t.

Il the Latest Fad of Those Who Have Any
thing to Put on 1t.
One of the most charming whims Of the
season is the "silyer table" 1t has a place
of honor in the drawing room. The table
itself is low, rather broad, has light rail-
ing of darkisn wood about it's top and is
covered with dark red plush. It holds
everything in silver, odd, or quaint, or
historic. or unusual, upon which my lady
can lay her hands-and of course takes rank
in her affection very much according to the
rarity, the pictaresqueness or the interest
of the collection it displays
Clasps, girdles, sword hilts, buckles, but
tons, objects of art, souvenir spoons from all
sorts of unheard of places, all sorts of spoons
and cups and bottles from which historic
folks have drank, odd coins, broken shill-
ings, bangles from India and from Alaska,
silver lace, boxes, brushes, bottles, silver
dagger sheaths, flagree caskets, thimbles
with history, besides all the thousand
elegant trifles Of the jewelers. shelf, furnish.
forth this ''newest thing" in tables.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

sleeve and vertical section under 1t ex-
tending to the feet, and triangular piece
set in the front, all OF q darker and more
precious material than the rest of the gar
ment. This beautiful device cuts the width
and narrows the figure.
Heightening the Moral Effect
Dignity can be given to the short woman
by emphasizing the median line OF the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
4 Thief and a Scoundrel.

The manufacturer who will put up injurious fla
voring extracts and label them of perfect purity
and extra fine quality, is thief and scoundre1.
To be safe confine yourself to the use of such
flavors as your experience and judgment tell you
are of the purest quality. DR.. Prices Delicious
Favorng Extracts, Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, ETC., are
just what they are represented to be. If not the
cheapest they are the best, and puddings cakes,
creams or other table delicacies are spoiled by
their USE
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
EGYPTIANS BOILED WATER
An Ancient Manuscript Showing 1t l. Not .
New Idca at All.

An Ancient Manuscript Showing 1t Is Not
New Idca at All.
It is taken for granted that the idea of
boiling water before using it as beverage
is of relatively recent date. A manuscript,
however, has just been disco, cred in the
Khedive's library at Cairo which corrects
this false impression. This manuscript
treats of hygiene in Egypt, and is the work
of celebrated Arabian physlcian, Ebn-
Maszy. It bears the date Of the
year 400 of the hegira (1O6S).
In this manuscript it is said ''that the
best method of setting water free from prin-
ciples injurious to health consists In first
submitting it to the action Of heat by boil
ing it, then exposing it to the GOODNESS of
the night air, decanting it, boiling it . sec
ond time, clarifying it by mingling chalk
with it, and finally fltering it through
porous jar exposed to the night aiE'
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

may be as varied as kaleidoscope forms,
are all composed of triangles, squares,
oblongs, etc, to be embodied in rich red,
yellow and blue; in the form and the color
depends the success Of the work.
TO make square like the one suggested
in the illustration, which may be used as
cushion cover or scarf end, purchase a
sufficient. quantity of fine white linen
canvas or Morris cotton. Draw upon this
foundation the outline of the design, then,
with heavy twisted silk, or the best of knit
ting silk, work the figures as follows:
Use the silks as the section directs, each
initial Of which represents a color. That
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
MADAME LA PRESIDENTE


Gentle Grace with Which She Reigns ~
Queen OF the French coort-Romance
Of Her. Marriage-How She Spends Her
Money-Her Education.
CORRESPONDENTS OF THE p1srArcrI
PARIS, March n-Daughter of the distin-
guished politician and economist, DUPONT
White, Madame Carnot spent most of her
youth at Fontainebleau, under the shadow
of the beautiful chateau. The modest little
villa where she lived is pointed out by the
townspeople, many Of whom can still re-
member the beautiful Madame White and
her two pretty young daughters, who were
popularly supposed to be IS learned as pro-
fessors, for their father had insisted on his
children being taught Latin and Greek in
addition to their other studies 1t was dur
ing the brilliant closing days of. the Second
Empire, Fontainebleau vas the Empress
Eugenie's favorite country palace, and each
summer saw Napoleon I'LL s court estab-
lished in the chateau, transformed for the
time being into the very dwelling of light
hearted coquetry and folly. But the Du-
point-Wh;tes spent their sober home life
in their quiet villa, refusing all invitations
to the chateau fetes and dances
According to French notions, the future
presidente did not marry early, she was two
and twenty when she became the wife of tho
well-known senator and writer, Hypolyti
Carnot.
Element OF Romance in tho Marriage.
The marriage Of Mademoiselle Dupoint-
White and the then youthful civil engineer,
Sadi Carnot, was quite a romance. The
future president was shy, silent young
man seldom if ever opening his lips in the
presence Of his distinguished senator father,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
.ASlNNEltNfsMhvNMNfN(YINNRcNmM

is, red to fill the figures marked with ''R, I"
yellow those indicated by ''Y," and blue
the portions marked with ''B"
The stitches are to be taken as the tiny
cross lines of the square. make plain, each
line being made to represent a single
stitch; that is, the silk in every instance
made to pass over the figure from main line
to main line until it becomes solid mass OF
color
The work is simplicity itself, and. can be
done with great rapidity, yet it is strikingly
effective and gives result similar to that
seen in the best Oriental embroideries,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

balusters, or long gracefully carved brackets;
and in none Of these do we call for more
than the skill of the ordinary mechanic.
The good effect will result from the care
with which the proportions are studied.
Artistic lines and fine proportions are worth
any amount of elaboration.
Fig. and Fig. suggest tasteful treat
ments Fig. 3 shows the side of the
bracket support of shelf in Fig q Figs. 4
and show profles of shelves
The plan Of cutting grooves in the top Of
the shelf to prevent photograph or plaque
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

made single OF double breasted, or is fast
ened invisibly under the arm, and its only
trimming is border down the vertical edge.
Sometimes the back of the skirt is cut and
bo1-plaited on, and sometimes, as said
above, the back is intact and coat effect is
given to the 'front.' When tine front is
double breasted and bordered, an extra
vertical line of trimming may extend from
the waist line on the same side, to the foot
1t should begin at dart But if fitted
princesse is tolerated by fashion for woolen
and silk, it is wholly unsuited to materials
that wash. ADA BACHE-CONE.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

q man who concealed warm heart under q
cold, austere e1terior-the active, bright
and singularly we'll educated girl who is now
madame la presidente was a great favorite
with the old gentleman who delighted in her
fresh, lively conversation and fearless
demeanor With quick sympathy she
OWNED the state of affairs existing between
the reserved father and son and set herself
to bring them closet together, and while
doing so learned to take herself an interest
in what concerned more especially the son.
She was extremely pretty and had in her
own circle reputation for learning and
Sevigne wit, TINS everyone. was surprised
when the engagement was announced, the
more so that as Madame White had been
one Of the beauties Of the court of Louis
Philippe it had always been thought that
Mademoiselle Dupoint-White would make
an aristocratic marriage to some member OF
the old French nobility.
1t is not generally known that the grand
father Carn6t, nicknamed "The Organizer
of Victory" was made Count bv Napoleon
I, but his son and grandson neither of them
ever cared to bear the title, and it was
greatly to Madame Sadi Carnot's credit that
she did not ask her husband to make her
Madame la Countesse, the more so that she
passed her youth in circle where title
counted for great deal, and that many of
her own young girl friends belonged to the
exclusive Faubourg.
She Is q Master of English.
The keynote of Madame Carnot's nature
and existence is her extreme love and
loyalty to her husband. Although she does
not often talk Of him to strangers, his per-
sonality is ever present to her mind and
ru' es her smallest actions. Her perfect
knowledge of English made her assistance
Of the greatest value to Monsieur Carnot
when he was engaged in translating Stuart
Mills great work on the revolution OF 1848,
and even now she makes a point of reading
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
EDUCATED YOUNG WOMEN.

They Have No Right to Refuse Housework
That 1t Retards Cultivating the Mind
Is Nonsense-A Matter Of Duty and
Good Breeding.
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPATcH1
A young girl finishes her school life and
comes back into the family again. Suppose
she has neither the taste nor the ability to
take up any work outside her home. Sup
pose, however, that she is bright, intelli-
gent, fond of books and music and pictures
Suppose, last of all, that the family income
is not large and that there is but one or ct
the most two servants in the house.
Now, the question naturally arises, what
shall be the attitude Of this young, un-
trained, but intelligent mind toward the
homely details of housework? Shall she
take them, or let them alone-is housework
worthy Of the best effort, worthy Of the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
BOTH FAT AND FAIR
Adipose Has Only Few Terron for
the Woman Who Knows the
Theory Of Dress
ROw TEE ACTRESSES MANAGE IT.
over-Plumpnes May Be Reduced b That
Which Just Fills the Eye by At
lention to Lines.
DIGNITY EMPHASIZED By 4 COMB
Costumes for the Fleshy That VIII Make Them Re-
juice in Their Defecta
EOw TEE ACTRESSES MANAGE IT.
DIGNITY EMPHASIZED BI 4 c0HB
Costumes for the Fleshy That Will Make Them Re-
joice in Their DefcctA
WRITTEN FOR THE DISPATCH !

ST N'1SH1NGLY
thin and marvellous
ly proportioned wo-
men of the fashion
plates give many a
woman her only
idea of the style. To
look on these plates
and see no way of
attaining to this ap-
pearance, is to the
normally built wo-
man a sufficiently
discouraglng mat
ter, but what depths
~ IaSnair daac fhs
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

sight of them cause to her who is over stout!
If style can be produced only with bust
Of 40 and waist of 20, skirt length of
from so to go inches, and neck elongated
BY at least four extra vertebra, who shall
attain tc it? Verify, if this is style it is
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20
THE LATEST IN FANCY WORK.

Moldavian Is the Name for 1t and It Has =
Great Future.
The very latest and the newest of all new
things is the Moldavian work, of which a
specimen design is given here 1t comes to
us from Brussels, and is sure to grow in
favor as it becomes known. The popularity
of the Moldavian work is its
combination of colors and its geo.
metrical forms. The designs, which
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-20

and marking all the London daily papers
before her husband has had time to glance
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01
THE SITUATION.

A general dissatisfaction pervades the
masses, and taking advantage of which,
demagogues have sought to make the
tariff scape goat, and, loaded with the
national sins, Crive it into the wilderness.
The Democrats have triumphed and will
find that the solution Of their difficulties
is not the fiscal regulation of Imports
but a reorganization of finance, toward
which the Republicans were working con-
servatiyely but surely.
The eleventh census puts the true
wealth" of the country at over $1,000 per
capita, while the currency, according to
Mr.. Leach, amounts to about S26 per
head. From this latter figure there must
be subtracted a goodly percentage on &C
count of the debasement of silver and
dead capital; so that it is fair to assume
that the proportion between wealth, that
is our actual present resources, and money,
the medium of exchange, is as one to fifty.
In other words, man or bank that owns
81 eco COO controls $50,000,000 of wealth.
Il is no wonder that fortunes grow so
rapidly, that speculation is abnormal,
the concentration Of money enormous
and that crauks walk abroad without fear
of the fool killer.
The remedy most often proposed for
this condition is an adjustment of the
tariff, which is merely fiscal in its in
huence. The people carried away by
lot of abuse and false charges have voted
| to adopt the free trade policy, and to re-
pudiate that fair and conservative Repub-
licanism that would have increased the
purchase of silver to 100000 ounces u
month, and opened wider markets for
our surplus and thereby further increased
the volume of currency.
What has New Mexico gained by the
change? Free wool and free silver-lead
ores; and already under the mallgn in
huence of Democracy silver and wool are
dropping in price. With silver at rs
instead of 100 cents on the dollar, it
affects Il man of $500 income just
| S125 per year. The tariff at the utmost
bears on his purse only $3.50 cents. So
it is plain that, aside from local issues,
what we need is an honest and more ample
coinage, and that our present reciprocal
tariff policy be left alone. New Mexico
feels these influences keenly and quickly;
and already the life blood of her COM
merco is stagnating,
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01
Notice for Publication.
Homestead No. 4033.
IIVlIIV0VOUd +NU' I0Oo'I
LAND OFFICE AT SANTA FE, N. NJ,
November |, 1892.


LAND OFFICE AT SANTA FE, N. NJ,
November |, 1892.
Notice is hereby given that the follow
ing named settler has filed notice of his
intention to make final proof in supper
of his claim, and that said proof will be
made before the register and receiver
at Santa Fe, N. n, on December 6, 1892,
viz:
Juan Rafael Jimenez, for the lots 1, 2
and 3, and S Il e sec. 5, tip. Is n, r.
Zoe.
He names the following witnesses to
prove his continuous residence upon and
cultivation of said land, viz
Anacleto Contreras, Nicolas Jimenez,
Doroteo Benevides, Juan Benevides, all of
Santa Fe, N NJ.
Any person who desires to protest
againGt the allowance of such proof, or
who knows of any substantial reason, I'M
der the law and the regulations of the in
terror department, why such proof should
not be allowed, will be given an oppor.
tunity at the above mentioned time and
place to cross-examine the witnesses of
said claimant, and to offer evidence in re-
buttal of that submitted by claimant.
A. T.. MORRISON,
Register.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01

statehood was one of the planks in the
Republican territorial platform, and was
one of the things the Democrats also
claimed to favor. The Democrats have
elected Mark Smith and president and
both branches of congress also. There
fore there should be no further delay in
statehood. The Republicans favor it,
and the Democrats say they do, and Mark
Smith should experience no difficulty in
having the bill passed Immediately upon
the reconvening of congress.
1t has been suggested that meeting of
the citizens of Phoenix be held during the
coming week to take some action in the
matter, and if deemed advisable to select
committee to visit Washington and
urge the early admission of the territory.
The Republican takes pleasure in endors-
ing this suggestion and hopes that a
general attendance may be had.
We don't believe in doing things by
halves. If we are going to push for state
hood, let us do it in a way which will in
dictate that we mean business.-Ph9nix
Republican.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01
Personally
Conducted
Excursions
To
CAIIFORNT- IA ,

Jack Frost stimulates travel. When he
touches our ears, we think about getting
warm,
California has the ideal winter climate
just far enough south to be sunshiny and
frostless, and yet with sufficient tonic in
the air.
Santa Fe route takes Jack Frost's hint,
and has arranged series of personally
conducted weekly excursions to California.
Pullman tourist sleepers, furnished with
bedding, toilet articles, etc, leave Chicago
and St. Louis, every Saturday evening,
and leave Kansas City, every Sunday
morning, via A., 7. & S. F. and A. & p.
line, for Los Angeles and San Francisco,
on fast express trains.
Special agents and porters in attend
ance. Second-class tickets honored. A
small charge for use of tourist sleeper
Everything clean, neat and comfortable.
Inquire of nearest ticket agent, or write
to G. T. Nicholson, G. P. & 7. A., Santa
Fe route, Topeka, Kas., for copy of
folder describing these excursions.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01
The Department of Horticulture.

When the department of agriculture
was created out of various bureaus there
was disposition to poke fun at it. But
under the wise and efficient administra-
ton of Secretary Rusk it has become one
of the most important branches of the
government. Secretary Rusk's last an
nual report. reviews the work of
the department and presents ample
evidence of the wisdom of encour-
aging it by legislation and liberal appro-
priations. The withdrawal of the pro-
hibitions against American pork prod
ucts, the inspection of cattle for export,
and other things accomplished by this
administration for the benefit of the far
mers, have put millions in their pockets.
They will be fortunate indeed if all that
has been gained, and much more, is not
lost under the succeeding administration.
Philadelphia Press.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01
Notice for Publication.
Homestead No. 4030.

LAND OFFICE, AT SANTA FE, N. NJ,
Nov. l, 1892.
Notice is hereby given that the follow
ing name settler has filed notice of his
intention to make final proof in support
of his claim, and that said proof will be
made before register and receiver at Santa
Fe, N. NJ, on December 6, 1892, viz;
Juan Benavides for the W Sc d, e
a sw Il sec 5, n W a ne g d W
a sec tip IS II 10 e.
He names the following witnesses to
prove his continuous residence upon and
cultivation of, said land, viz;
Romulo Denayides, Florencio Duran,
Nicolas Jimenez, Anacleto ContreraS, all
of Santa Fe.
Any person who desires to protest
against the allowance of such proof, or
who knows of any substantial reason,
under the law and the regulations of the
interior department, why such proof
should not be allowed, will be given an
opportunity at the above mentioned time
and place to cross-examine the witnesses
of said claimant, and to offer evidence in
rebuttal of that submitted by claimant.
A. L. MORRISON,
Register.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-12-01

RECENT experiences have demonstrated
that what the average astronomer doesn't
know about the comiIgs and goings OF
comets would fill a very large sized book
Of all the scientists that have lately
rushed into print to air their individual
views, Prof. Howe, of the university OF
Denver, seems to be the most Level
headed. The correctness of his calcula-
tions have been fully demonstrated and
have won for him many admirers through
out the west.