Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-07-23

VIZ dom rises above ninety
.rfIEG>y five degrees), and every
1fjs night has been worse
iy13kts than the days, darkness
lM4 bringing no alienation
1TslA Of the clammy discom-
fort. but increased activity TO all the wriggling,
crawling, squirming and singing pests that in
fest this lovely TO look at) inferno. Feeling
that nothing short Of a sea voyage would re-
ieve the lassltuds brought on by so long breath
ing the oxygenless air We determined to take q
run to Bshia-another Brazilian coast city,
one thousand miles north from BIO.
Under favorable circumstances the trip occu-
pies four days; and right here q word of advice:
IL ever YOU find yourself about to make this
trip don't take Brazilian steamer. though
dozens Of them lie waiting in the harbor and
you may be compelled to wait a week for some
northward-going English or German vessel
Native coasters are continuously plying up and
down; but they are invariably Differed, crewed
and cooked so to speak, by mongrel Portuguese,
and In neither capacity are scions Of the Iberian
peninsula a pronounced success. One can have
plenty Of sessickness on the broad and bolster
Gus Atlantic, without inviting it by villainous
food. vile smells, filth and vermin, surly officers
and profane, careless underlinss-
CAPE FRO AND IT'S LIGHT HorsE.
few hours out from the "River Of January"
when the colossal peaks of Tijuca and the Sierra
dos Orgoas, which we have learned to love like
human friends, have grown dim and DINNER
and finally vanish from view, we find ourselves
abreast Of Cape FRO Of school geography fame,
which IN those days We were erroneously taught
TO pronounce Fry-oh- The huge mass Of granite
towering perpendiculariy out of the water marks
the spot where the coast line forms Q right angle
by turning abruptly to the north. A much
needed light house stands at its foot and the
cause Of its building lies rotting Just below-the
remains Of the English frigate Thetis. You re-
member how the homeward-bound vessel run
ming at Ten knots an hour, was dashed against
this bulvark in the darkness Of night and re-
duced to kindling wood in an instant. and how
most Of he officers and crew managed to save
themselves by crawling up the mighty preci-
pice out Of reach of the dashing spray and
chnging 10 projections Of rock till rescued two
days later BY passing ship. Not far above
this point the broad Rio Psrahiba PUSHES to the
sea. and oar ship turns into il. having business
TO transact at san Salvador, q hourishing village
on its left bank twenty miles above. The sur
rounding region, known the Campos dos
Goyatakazes (plains Of the Goyatakaz Indians),
is extremely fertile and produces the best sugar
made in brazil. We had only an hour ashore,
but that is enough to view the little city, with
Its well-paved streets and comfortable casas
shaded 5y mango trees Though the world
knows comparatively nothing of San salvador,
II appears to be a much more progressive place
than Santos and its commerce quite as ex-
tnslve-in sugar, rum and rice instead of
coffee.
THE EsPIRIro sASTo PROVINCE.
few leagues beyond the acknowledgements
OF the Parahiba we End ourselves sailing close
along the shore of classic ground-the great
EIirito Santo Holy Ghost province, which
enbFaces the ancient captaincy Of that name
an part of Porto SECURE. This il the portion
Of Brazil that Cabrdl discovered and where
th first Dppararft.z settled vet IN "a far
thhly populated than in aboriginal DAYS and
alrost wholly unimproyed. Its rich soil is
adapted to sugar cane and coffee and Its
forsts are full Of the most precious woods
snS useful drugs. Yet vast tracts are still
ronsd over b. savlges. who make occasional
plIadering raids upon "a few settlements Ii
Is lie old story Of unthrift, true of all tropical
countries. where nature has furnished the peo-
pie 18th plenty TO live on without work: where
the ranana and black man flourish side BY side.
The Portuguese are not an industrious race
andJf course not much in tn. line of progress
can &c expected from the negroes. the only
wOring eLIss in the country But the last
hslf;entury marked some improvement even
here No; counting the ncnsd Indians there
are Ger 100000 people (rnostiy farIners) In the
vastlrovince ana railroad il talked Of In
$40 here were only seven primary schools in
the shole territory aad now there are l47
Eehols. mostly sustained BY the government
AlOy the coast. however. in all the thousand
u
sing, port or city Of consequence or a road
wore the name leading into the interior or a
nayiAtA stream except the Parahiba.
ROYAL NATURALIST.
Soar rs / can learn the only civilized person
whoever travelled over this portion of the Bra
ziliE coast WA Prince MAMMALIAN of Neuwied.
ard hat was many years ago. He was q natur-
alist well authOr. and none in either
lr4e hive exhibited more enthusiasm and per-
severnee than did his hjghness; the book
whlcfhe subsequently gave to the world is the
bsst-ndeed tbs nly-account OF the people
and scenery in these wild regions. Saws he:
Ihoch scratched and MANNED by thorns
soaketby rgins, exhausted by excessive per-
spiratu caused b. the intense heat, often fam
ishins nd alSaya in deadly peril. the traveller
Is morsthaa repaid-he IL delighted beyond
words To expressly the magnificent
vegeaon- OF one sort Of vegetation
that wieh especially distinguishes Brazil
The pan tree-we obtain some raw
hing gliinpses from affair. II is said
that thse are upward OF 900 varieties of the
palm inSouth America. and, Notwithstanding
the common character which they possess as a
Class, THE Is the most striking difference be-
tween t>s various kiad- the feathery Jupatis
droopin over he waters edge; the giant Miri-
tie. stretching straight and true To it's green
dome hhs he columns OF a temple; the grace
FIJI Assai. shOJi ns skyward ike n rocket; the
lAccsbs, or vine palm, from which the flowers
urOOp IN Oils CRIMSON cords, set at intervals
with bright greer berries; the eocoauut palm.
whose noWsrs buSt from the sheath in such a
long. heavy plumAof creamy blossoms that a
strong MN coull not IFS 1t. and others too
numerous 10 nentin.
GREAT rTrLIt OF THE PALM TREE
No wonder he paAp tree has been named the
''prinee Of the vegetable kingdom" L, ought
also to be called the social province Of South
America, for il furnishes the natives remote
from cities With nearlySll the necessaries of
life Take. for example the hut Of an ANA
zonian Indian Its rafteA are formed by the
straight, tan Leopoldina nlchra palm. II Is
thatehed with leaves Of thsCarana palm The
doors and framework are II split stems of the
Iriartea eaho-iga palm Firm another species
he takes the WIDE bark that rows beneath the
fruit for cloth from which &C make his scanty
dress HIS swinging bed iwoven from the
hbers Of several palms, and sd his bovstrins
and hsh line. The comb wich he u.es in
adjoining his head is made iron the hard wood
Of q palm and his fish hooks fro, the snines on
the same. He makes caps for b head. BAGS IN
which TO carry his jarrito Of Seadly arrow
poison and most treasured feathr ornaments
from the fibrous spsthes OF the Autcaria -
~s<s~~ Eron, aight ara~asa h.