The record-union., 1892-02-27
WAKEMAN'S WANDERINGS.
Roaming Among Beautiful Scenes
in the Balearic Islands.
Scenes in Majorca's Palm-srudded
Capital-Grave, sweet Water Car
riers and Their Tragic History
Island Sights and scenes-The One
Land of Plenty and Content.
Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1921

Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1921
PALMA, Majorca, Feb. 2, 1892.
The three principal islands of the Ba-
learic group are, in size and importance
respectively, Majorca, Manorca and
Iviza. The first is but sixty miles from
east to west and fifty miles from north to
south. Cabrera and other lesser islets
belong to the group, but these are trifiing
in size, almost uninhabited and of little
general interest. The population of the
islands now exceeds 100000 souls. Ma
jorca is by far the most beautiful of all
love with her, her capital city, Palma,
and all her sunnyhearted folk, few who
first land in Palma's sunlit bay will care
to seek adventure here beyond Majorca's
glowing shores.
One of my first entertainments here was
by the water carriers of Palma. They
are not so naive as those of the Azores, so
bold as those of Italian cities, so volup-
tuous as those of Lisbon, nor SO languor-
ous-eyed and petite as those of Granada
and Seville. But could not help think
ing that here an artist would find hum
dreds of perfect models for Rachel at
the Well" Tall, 1.-the, slender but
shapely maidens are these, and their
dress, carriage, features and ways con-
stantly increase ones admiration and in
terest. Had they been simply animal in
their saucy beauty, one study OF one
group at one fountain would have an
swered even a sentimental traveller.
But for days | found myself, against all
apparent reason, drawn to this fountain
hot n Iii oil mo # on
tai excuse for what my own judgment
scourged me with as an accusation OF inn
propriety. Attempt as / might to study
all other lowly, become interestedin the
majestic cathedral, or essay tramps into
the interior, back | came to the fountains
to contemplate these fair maidens and en-
deavor to unravel the strange spell they
had cast upon me. In the first place L
never saw but one woman whose unri-
vailed art gave her the perfect carriage
these women unconSclouSly own as ma
ture's heritage. That woman was Sara
Bernhardt. Added to this was conscious
dignity and not coyish but superb and
stately modesty which lent positive radi-
ance to every movement, gesture or look.
Their attire added rare charm to all
else. Their tiny feet were incased in
dainty slippers. A skirt of loosely woven
dark stuff fell in close and graceful folds
about their long and shapely limbs.
Over this lay short naplSIn-like apron,
spotlessly white. A dark bodice low at
the neck displayed exquisite shoulders
and breast, and its sleeves stopping at the
elbow where an edging of white was
seen, showed the lower half of beautifully
nodded arms. The head is bare, covered
by wealth of hair coiled low and heavily
in the neck, giving in the sunlight the
blue black luster of the grape. The fore
head is strangely wide for the Latin type:
IND hn nv xxrhi nh oil So oo+
have the low, wide arch. The eyes are
large, luminous, melting, sad; and never
were seen eyelaShes of such length and
blackness on other women. The nose
is finely chiseled and the nostrils are thin
and have perceptible tremor. An oval
chin, dazzling teeth, a mouth that sug-
gests the hot blood of the south, chast-
ened by endless repression, with lips of
crimson, complete face of Madonna-like
depth and feeling. This face looks out OF
tilmy white kerchief drawn close be-
meath the chin, with points fastened with
rose or tritle of jewelry to the hair at
either side of the head; while it's longest
point covers the neck and breast TO the
girdled waist below.
In professions of a dozen to a score
vending their way to and from, or when
lettering beside the fountains, they form
groupings against the quaint old walls
beneath the lonely palms fit for Tode-
mas master hand. Their burdens are
never carried upon their heads. The
bottom of the empty or filled ever always
rests upon the right hip, the handle
against the carriers breast, and her half
barred white arm is flung carelessly
around the vessel just below its mouth.
All inquiries regarding these beautiful
water carriers of Palma brought from the
native population shrug ofthe shoulder
with contemptuous smile and the sheer
ing words,
LA Ghaetd ~
That meant "a little long-eared owl.''
] could not understand why these radiant
maidens could have so offensive a name.
/ followed some of them about the city
and then to their homes. 1t brought me
TO strange quarter where strange peo-
pie with kindly yet sad and smileless faces
wrought in all labor with that patience
and diligence which characterize but one
race of men. This was in the "Chuta''
quarter OF Palma, and this is the story Of
the folk that live within it:
death to the jews was the brutal cry
of all good Christians in Southern Eu-
rope toward the end of the fourteenth
century. In Palma they were prosecuted
with relentless fury, beaten with crosses
OF wood they had been compelled to kiss,
and their houses looted and sacked
During Passion Week of 1876 they were
so desperately baited that some Jews at
tached a slave, whom they named
Jesus" TO a cross and Knocked him in
silent revenge. Four of the Jews con-
cerned In the affair were condemned to
be burned to death. Their sentences
were then commuted to death by hang
ing on condition of becoming Christians
AS the fury of the Christians seemed &c
promise the murder of all the Jews in
Palma, not only did the four condemned
men embrace Christianity, but within
two days time more than two hundred
were baptized, and eventually the entire
Jewish population followed their ex-
ample. The descendants of these are the
folk of the Chueta quarter. They pro-
less Christianity, though living wholly
apart from the Majoreans of Palma
Many are rich; most are artisans such as
Sllyersmiths, weaYers of embroideries
and the like; all are honest, clearly and
industrious. But their bearded, solemn
men and these faces by the fountains, be-
tray, II but family, the memory of those
olden tragedies which can never be eft
faced from their inner lives and hearts.
In Palma and throughout the fair Ba-
learlc Isles studies OF the deepest interest
are among the people themselves; and
then among the lowliest of these. The
city has few great lions for sightseers who
are already familiar with the southern
cities Of Europe. If one has friends, OF
can secure them, it is true that there are
10 nlotS oeAttllul ana exquisite examples
OF the .Moresque-Spanish interiors than
can be found in Paima's homes. Indeed
have never seen in art, as representative
of the patio or court of the Italian, Span
lsh or Aloselm home, anything equaIing
the beauty of these open courts The
stone work, while never on so grand a
scale, rivals in delicacy of texture and
richness OF ornamentation anything to be
found within the walls OF the Alhambra,
The scenery of the bay, though not SC
noble as that OF Naples, is far more win
some and enchanting. Then there Is the