New-York tribune., 1892-03-27
THE FASHIONS.
BELL SKIRTS AND LONG SHOULDER SEAMS

BELL SKIRTS AND LONG SHOULDER SEAMS
The last importatlons Of French dresses which have
been shown at the spring openings exhibit many
| novel points. The skirts. however. remain long
the bell-skir, with a single In the back, Is
universally used The novel skirt Of this kind
T. made without seam being cut OF specially wide
cloth which for this purpose II Is In perfect
circular when blocked out, the space for the
wsistband is cut ont In the centre. The sdrs -
then peaed and moulded in shape by tho dressmaker
This pattern makes sdrt which Is very vide ct the
bottom, with scarcely any fulness at The top A
simple. dainty way to finish any ben-skirt Is with
two overlapping runies, the upper not moro THAI
three inches WIDE and the lower ono Just four. These
two rufies put together with double heading
and 90 that only inch Of the lower ru1e shows.
A box pcatins OF ribbon a simple cord On which the
les shirred Is used between them and the heaing
Three miHners folds OF the material Of dress are used
on the edge Of India silk gowns. The employment Of
narrow band OF Persian Turkish embroidery ID .
| feature Of many OF the French gowns OF heavy
| camel's hair In some ribbon brocaded In
| Persian colors Is used a plain border. Ike .
| selvedge. Some Of the sAdrts drapcd IN
hvease style, and In such the selvcdse Is let
| 10 show without hemmlng. or Is simply edged WITH
q band Of Persian rbbon which Is oftcn not over a
Inch and half inch wide and has tho eject
| OF ornamental sevedge.
| The avease drapery extends 10 the bottom os the
skirt and is then turned bacg in fat rcvers high ~
| the sides TO form sharp point directly IN nonf
This washcrwomnn drapery, though by no means nov.
Il quite differently arranged from the drapery called
by this name a dozen years ago. II Is drawn quito
high at the ddes but without any boufant effect
thence II falls In narrow. jabotHke folds down the
back All the new skirts remain very close at tho
sides. There Is suggestion OF pannerlike drapeFy.
though there have been predictions heard -
| to its return. The bell-skirts usually sewn
~ rraIct xrth 10 ftlp AZ fha
and none the sides and 'front.' though there Is some
times a cluster OF shlring each hip. narrow
box -pleating Of the material in Other cases Q
knoed shawl drapery often relieves the plainness Of
the bell skirt at the back
We are on the eve Of decided change in bodices.
The shoulder seams are growing longer while tho
sleeves, which remain full, no longer raised on
tho shoulder. but are plclted to fall soft and
| fat exactly they represented In the OLD
portraits OF two three generations ago. The
| sleeves OF elaborate dresses which combined
with silk crepe lace, made in full effect OF this
material as far as the elbow, to several inches
above IL. The rest OF the sleeve Is OF the dress
| material and fits the contour of the arm; or Is IN
some cases slightly wrinked over 1t. The new sleeves
are not as long those Of last season. The sleeve
no longer falls over the hand.
All bodlces are high and close at the throat The
whole-back waist that is the bodice fitted without
|
Is becoming only TO OF very slight figure The
bodice with full number OF seams Is seldom seen. ana
the majority are fitted with whole back and full fronts
so that the shoulder and those under the arms
are all that are visible the outside The lining OF these
dresses however is always fitted with the regulation
number Of seams Bodces made with the whole back arc
made over lining with n directly In the middle
OF the back and side seams, and the outside cotA
is stretched the bias TO make II ft without scam
over this lining. In some the bodice has the
French back. where the seam in the centre OF the
back shows on the outside; but the side seams arc
omitted
The narrow passementcries and 1etted bead trim
mngs in color more In favor than ever before.
The most desirable Of these not more than an
eighth OF an inch wide and are used to give m
irdecent sparkle to the edge Of folds, or like heavy
braid are usei in successive rows, one after an
other across the basque or around the lower pars
| Of the sleeve to the elbow
Where silk satin Is used In combination with
wool Il is longer used for the entire sleeve but
for the full upper part alone. Gres are universally
worn and a season OF buckles may confidently be pre-
| dicted for the coming summer. Old chased aiv0
| buckles IN rococ0 designs, in special demand
These are not over two and half inches long. Tho
new giriles wound around the bodice in elaborate
fashion. They are usually pointed In front below
the waist line. extended to the side seams covering
the edge OF the bodice and thence straight mp to
| the middle Of the back. whence they fall In pro-
fusion of long loops and ends fl what Is known
as the Vatican bow very dainty dress Of white
India silk. figured all In q medley OF Persian
tnts In which the new Vatican green was intro
duced was trimmed with ecru Brussels net ana
edged with pot dGene lace and Vatican green satin
ribbon The seamless bodice high at the throat.
deep colarettc Of Brussels net and Genoa point fell
over the shoulders. while the neck was finished BY
close collar OF green satin ribbon. The full sleeves,
which fell of the shoulders In soft folds, were OF
India silk and extended early 10 the elbow, where they
we're finished by a band OF satin ribbon ana trans
parent undcrseeves Of Brussels net and Genoa lace
The bodice was finished with pointed girde Of pale
green ribbon which was extended up to the centre Of
the back the edge of the lace coarettc whence
1t fell In long oopcd Vatican bow low on the back
OF the skirt. There a fiat trimming of lace In the
form point at the back Of this bodice. which was
outlined by this grdle OF ribbon The plain bell skirt
was simply edged with two overlapping runes cut on
the bias, and set on with double heading and mar
row box -pleaiing Of green satin ribbon.
Rainbow ribbons Of white moire striped with satin
stripes In delicate colorS. used for girdles and
Vatican bows on other dresses The watteau bows
made mp and ready to be put the dress sold at
all the large ribbon counters The favore width OF
ribbon for this purpose about four inches wide. and
an irldcsccnt MORE ribbon Is favorite choice Wat
tau bows aud girdes Of white moire ribbon. tinted
nacre will be used on commencement dresses, which
are already being made up for fair girl graduates Of
June.
Tea gowns and neggees were never more lovely tn
material OF graceful In outline than now. They arc
made of soft materials like the satinstrped chaliies
and paie-tinted crepes. one Of the handsomess
dresses OF this kind was imported from Pingat. IL
was a pale Du Barry crepon. with deepponted
cuffs and collars in cavalier shape OF ecru Russian
lace A grdle of heavy Russian lace held the full
front in place and the back fell In soft ample Watteas
pleat from the shoulders. more picturesque gown
could hardly be imagined for tall and graceful
woman. Women of short figures or Of pronounced
embonpont. should eSchew such flowing draperies II
they would not present the appearance OF inhateA
balloons small woman of slender figure, however
NAV wear such a garment with grace and II will add
pcrceptbly t. an appearance Of height. II the waist
line is not pronounced such gowns suitable only