The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-01-16

kneltwith the peasants about US rs tho
solemn procession went by. II was
preceded by villagers who scattered
aromatic leaves in the road before 1t.
a white irocked acolyto was in advance
tolling n strangely toned bell in meas
ured strokes. The priest, clad in gor..
geous chasuble, walking under Il red
silk canopy held in ita place by four
supporting youths, followed. lilo boro
in his hand u silver vessel containing
tho sacred emblem OF consolation. AT
his side marched white supplied Choir
listers und acolytcs carrying ccnsers;
while following these were membcrs OF
$ ONE irmandade In scarlet stolcs, each
carrying long wax candle. All were
chanting at intervals dirge-like hymn.
Tho entire procession was out OF sound
and sight before VIC who knclt in tho
roadway arose, and Dobrndo told ne
that Portuguese superstition rendered
this knccling until the doleful throng
had passed from sight OF the .direst I'M
portancc. Else "Nosso Senior" would
next DO required at tho bedside OF him
who should so fail III meet and COM
AN ANCIENT Inn.
A spot full Of quaint little Portuguese
pictures OF their Kind was an ancient
inn ola still more ancient and slumber-
GUS town where we were compelled to
pass tho hight. I;saw little but its huge
archway entrance and the strong iron
gates closing behind, as We entered, for
it was late and | went directly 10 my
little alcoba above. 1t had once been
an inn OF some importance, and the
which was already hundreds
oil years old. and had been in the hands
OF one family for 800 years, was good Tor
more than another half Il thousand. The
walls OF the entire structurewere capa-
BILE OF withstanding siege; and tho al
cobas or tiny sleeping rooms were no
larger than prisoners cells OF modest
size. Indeed tho prison effect was ell.
HANGED by the rireted and bolted doors
OF chestnut, six inches thick, III which
were iron latticcd gratings with little
slides behind; while. where windows
should have been were only tiny grated
holes splayed outwardly through the
huge stone wall.
No monks cell could have been more
secure or austcre, and Dobrado told Inc
that this. sort Of Il structure was greatly
in favor IN the time OF such grand rob-
bers as Giraldo, of Alfonso Henrique's
time, who often secured large booty at
less deiensible inns, when abbots, friars
or merchants were travelling with treas
ure. The belongings OF my odd room
a huge pewter wash basin
set upon the floor, a coarse linen towel
ample enough for toga in lieu OF other
ono chair OF. stool constructed
OF rawhide thongs stretched over
hollow framework, u, bed of four legs
set into huge frame with staves' bound
across the thongs, on which were
shapeless sack OF sweet corn-husks and
WOODEN blankets hand-woven BY the
peasant women OF the district; while at
the head Of the bed, hanging from an
spike imbcdded in the stone wall, was
little pewter crucifiX..:ss. &sa.;sG
MEDIEVAL. QUAIErNEss. :,a:i:,
When morning came found the in
terror. tho pateo or court OF the old inn,
most odd ana charming. All sorts OF
quaint utensils and furniture were scat
tered along its sides. 4 narrow gallery
ran around the entire second story, with
here and, there a.bird in cage sand a
semi-tropical plant. On one Of lis sides
some pretty vines creps up against the
old walls in q vagrant, luxurious way;
while the roof OF half-found tiles ex-
tendcda distances over the galleries,
leaving generous opening to the sky
above. The whole interior. while pic
turo o! medieval quaintness,y-was
structural compromiseY between the
closed abodes OF northern chimes and
the lovely half garden holsu-court OF
the tropics; n suggestion OF snugness-
and protection from. whistling winds,
and as truea tribute 10 zephyrous airs
and 4 genial sky and sun.
But opposite my chamber, along the
end Of the court, YVES the sur
est sign OF cquable Cline and summary
days. That was my breakfast cooking
in tho open air-not upon . stow, nor
in fire place, nor yet BY any Of tho
rudcr. devices our American grand
mothers knew. Heavy flat stones fur.
nished u sort OF raised rocky dais as high
as the knees OF the ancient scnhora who
was busting about the court. On this
dais furze fagots werc burning in two
tiny fires no bigger than syour fists.
Above ono OF these on triangular
piece OF iron something was grilling.
Above the other in copper pot held
there from long distance by wooden
pike beneath its bale or handle,
something was stcwing. Between bars
ind snatches OF song, 4 III alden OF ample
bust and hips, with arms akimbo and
hands pressing against the sides OF her
scarlet bodice, converted herself into
human blow.pipo, feeding the flame OF
furzo with such blasts IRON her power
full lungs as would for tho time COM
plotol;' hide the two females in kind
oil avolcanic shower OF ashes, the vol
umes OF smoke twirling away towards
the clouds through the ever-opcn roof
OF the court. Thus for an hour came
song and smoke and strange dissolving
views Of cookery, women and fire, when
l was most tremendously conducted to
my almoco or breakfast. Tho table was
bare OF covering, but amends were
made in dishes and their contents. A
tremendous frasca para vinho or wine
flagon or glass with pewter goblet at
its nide, contained iully two gallons OF
the, cheap wine OF Alemtejo. A brown
earthon plate before me held slice OF
grillod Portuguese bacon OF mighty pro-
portions. Asweet potato or yam, big
as cuspidor, stood steaming alongside.
A basin containing some mysterious
stow flanked the yam; and piled before
me in an actual recklesness OF munifi-