The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-04-03
FASHIONS IN LONDON.
Well-Dressed Englishman a Pat
tern to the World.
HIS CLOTHES ARE CHEAP, TOO.
Elonxation Of Coat skirts-PeR-top Trou-
sers-Styies in Sack and Frock
Coats-Nsokwear Not Flasby.

LONDON, March 21.-rSpecial Cores
pondence. THE well dressed man of Lon
don continues to set the fashion for the
male sex the world over. In fact he has
always done this, although at one time
the Partisan dandy had many imitators in
the United States. London is a paradise
ior men who desire to dress well at small
EXPENSE. 1t is possible to get the best
clothing, from the best tailors, at just half
the sum charged in the big cities of the
Union. 1t is a mistake to say that London
tailors do not know how to cut garments to
fit, and it is equally untrue that their fin
lshers do not know how to make them
neat, strong and serviceable. 1 have
been looking around in the various large
tailoring establishments of the West End
and find that the clothing is all cut snugly
to the form now, and finished with all the
skill of expert workmanship. The assort-
ment Of cloths is bewildering. Taking it
altogether, there is no place like London
for man who wishes to replenish ward
robe. No one dreams here of paying more
than fS for the best suit of clothing that
the most fashionable tailor can turn out,
clothing that would cost from SO to SIPS
per suit in America. And only the
bowling swells pay such prices. The
usual figure is somewhere between
f5 and &c, and for this one can
get garments cut by the most fashionable
tailors and made up in the best style.
An overcoat that would cost 500 in New
York may be had for half that figure here.
A silk hat that retails for IS in our land
can be had for half that price here, and so
it is with shoes, gloves and neckwear.
Even collars and cuffs only cost half in
London what they do in America, and
one may be in the very tip top of fashion
hore with an elaborate wardrobe for no
very great expense. Neckties that cost
S1.50 in New York are sold here for half
that sum, and the best made gloves in the
world can be obtained for from so cents to
81 per pair.
With all these facts in mind, is it any
wonder that the London dandy still leads
the American dude in the variety of his
apparel and extent of wardrobe2
Gentlemen with whom dress is pas
sion, study or a mere consideration of
living, owe deep debt of gratitude to the
artists sartorial who have evolved the
fashions for the coming spring and sum-
mer seasons. All tastes have been con-
suited, from those of the bowling swell to
the staid and sober business man, and in
every case the styles approach as nearly as
possible to perfection. Never before have
so many styles of garments for masculine
wear been represented, and all Of which
are of a refined elegance, exquisite beauty
and admirable suitability to the purpose
and season for which they are intended.
Until last fall there had not been for
many years any decided change in the
styles of gentlemen's garments. Then the
sudden elongation of skirts created havoc
with the wardrobes of correct dressers
and made business brisk for the merchant
tailors. For the coming season fashion
has changed the styles that prevailed last
season but slightly, except in the matter
of coat skirts. The Strengthening of the
collar crease OF the vest has been COM
pleted and shows no sign of its former
curves. Trousers are about as they
were. A summary of the special
features as adopted by the leading tailors
is as follows: Shoulders are moderately
wide and have the seams cut low. Edges
are generally stitched, though cord is still
quite popular for day or evening dress.
Binding is seldom used and is always put
on narrow. Double-breasted frock coats
are from one TO four inches longer than at
tendency is still to greater length in cut
away frocks and sack coats, and are trihe
longer than heretofore. Overcoats are
generally shapely except the coverts,
which are cut half-box. They roll lower
and are from one to four inches longer
than they were last spring. Except for
evening dress the curved crease for vests
is no longer correct. Trousers incline to-
ward the ''peg-top" style, and are still cut
loose at the knee and rather small at the
bottom.
By all odds the most fashionable gar
ment for mems wear that will be seen this
season is the long double-breasted frock,
Familiarity known as the 'long-tailed'
coat, on account of it's extreme length.
Only good dressers will wear it, however,
as 1t looks rather outlandish when worn
away from fashionable surroundings. Its
extreme length is forty-four inches, but a
length of from thirty-nine to forty-two
inches is preferable. 1t may be worn
without an overcoat and for afternoon
public entertainments is the correct thing.
The extreme increase sanctioned by
fashion in the length of double-breasted
frocks is by no means imperative, but no
coat of this description that is as short as
those of the corresponding season last year
Will be considered as correct. Except in
browns and grays and fancy weaves of
worsteds, cheviots and undressed worsteds
the extreme length will be but little worn,
but no matter what may be the color or
kind OF material used, all double-breasted
frocks will be an inch or two longer than
they were at the commencement of last
season. The lapels are always well peaked
and are from two and one-quarter to two
and one-half inches wide at the top. The
fronts are intended to close with three
buttons only, except for the shorter styles,
when they are sometimes made to close
- !, -. Il.
coat is unbuttoned, should be free and ex-
tend evenly to the bottom. if desired. For
day dress the vest is usually made of
modest fancy yesting, though number
OF good dressers prefer to have it of
the same material as the coat. The
trousers are of moderately light shade
of not pronounced stripe or plaided
material. When the coat is of any ma
terial of fancy weave or brown, gray or
mixed in color, the trousers are always
and the vest generally of the same mater
ial. The vest Is generally single-breas ted,
though If made of 4 fancy vesting it is
quite correct To have it double-breasted.
If the latter, ii is twenty-six inches long,
closes with three or four buttons, and has
either plain N-shaped rolling collar or
one with peaked lapel effect The trous-
ers are rather smaller in the leg than
formerly. They are slightly sprung, are
we'll followed over the instep and usually
have the side seams finished with mar
row welt.
Getaway coats are still very popular for
half-dress and geuteel business wear The
three-button cutaway, or the four-button
for men who are unusually tail, made from
worsteds, cheviots, thibets and other goods
suitable for day dress, almost divides the
honors with the double-breasted frock.
The length is trifie greater than last sea-
son, ranging from thirty-three and half
to thirtv-four inches 1t has a roll of