Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-12-02

l. Double box plait 2. Puff and heading. 8
Narrow ruffies 4. Rose plating.
When the drapery is all in place and firm
" held by pins it should be sewn down te
the foundation by waxed linen or cotton
4 thread. Silk, no matter how well fastened.
will work loose in short time.
The facing Of skirt to make it hang
we'll and wear well is tedious work, but
remember that one gown well made will
rive more comfort and satisfaction than
half a dozen slammed together in any way,
and SO 1t is worth while to take pains.
Wigan or tailor's buckram makes the
\ 6rmness, and a band-bias preferably-is
stitched to straight piece of linen two
inches wider. To this again is stitched
alpaca, not quite so wide as the linen, the
top edge being turned in This leaves the
linen to be sewn to the outside by invisible
cRtstitches or a couple of rows of machine
sewing, but the hand sewn is far better,
as dust will settle in the machine work.
The best way to sew the bottom is to have
the whole sewn in a seam with the skirt,
and then turned under, pressed and
hemmed. It is matter of taste as to how
the bottom shall be finished-with mohair
braid. or bias velutina binding, or puff or
other narrow trimming put on the edge.
At present rose plating is considered
the handsoniest, but this should not be
over three or four inches wide, and it is
often not over one inch. 1t requires to be
hemmed on both edges, and must have
just six times as many yards Of material
to plait as the skirt is around. An illus
tration of rose plating is given; also one
OF double box plaits, one of the puff and
oiie OF the narrow bias ruffling, which.
with few rows of narrow braid, make up
the trimming that will be most fashion
able for some time to come.
When beaded passementerie is used, as
II still is on silks and Priestly silk warp
henriettas and fine cashmeres, the needle
and thread should always he passed back
ward and under, and the edges all care
fully sewn down, and the outline must be
closely followed.
Fringe, and particularly beaded fringe,
needs to be sewn from the top edge, the
needle being set in from the top and the
thread held high. II feather or fur trim
mings are to be used, the edges of the skin
should be slightly turned in. Wet 1t il 1t
Il unruly.
II 1t is desired to border collar or any
other portion of costume with pea beads,
string them on a fine wire and sew that,
one stitch between each two beads. Other
wise they will be crooked.
II lace Is to be used as flounces, 1t should
be gathered Oh a strong thread just the
width Of the skirt, allowing two inches
for ''takeup." Sew 1t together and then
quarter it by means Of pins. and pin the
quarter points to the skirt, having rather
more fullness in front and ON the sides
than In the back. Then 1t can be sewn on,
holding the skirt toward you to be sure
that tho lace does not slip down below the
edge OF the skirt.
Making velvet bands for skirts or panels
Is particular job, and there is just one
way to do 1t right. and that is TO line it
with stout crinoline, and turn in the edges
half an inch all around and herringbone it
70 the crinoline.
i When skirt has been finished around
the bottom and the trimming put on. it is
ready for the pocket and the waistband.
This should be a narrow tape, the narrower
the better. A few cross stitches should be
set in the middle of the front and hook
and eye In the back. Nearly all dresses
open In the back, but some open a short
distance down tho left hip and are but
toned with fancy buttons. Two loops to
hang up by go on the belt and an elastic
% hold the back plaits In place. Set the
pocket where it will DO hidden among the
back plaits OLIVE HARPER.