Omaha daily bee., 1892-02-07

horizon beyond, while all about you Is gar
den cultivated to the last possibility OF grace
and beauty-a cultivation which doesn't stop
with the handy lower levels, but is carried
right up the sheer sleeps and propped there
with ribs Of masonry, and made to stay there
In spite of Newton's law. Beyond Geneva
beyond Lausanne,at any rate-you have for a
while a country which notceably resembles
New England, and seems out of place and
like an intruder-an intruder who is wear
ing his everyday clothes Mt fancy y-drcss
ball. But presently, on your right, huge
green mountain ramparts rise up, and after
that for hours you are absorbed in watching
the rich shadow effects which they furnish,
and are only duly aware that New England
is gone and that you are flying past quaint
and unspeakable old towns and towers. Next
day you have the lake of Zurich, and
presently the Rhine is swinging by you. How
clean 1t is How clear IT is How blue 1t is
How green it is How swift aud rollicking
aud insolent is its gait and style! How vivid
and splendid its colors-beautiful wreck and
chaos of all the soap bubbles in the uni
verse A person born on the Rhine must
worship it,
saw the blue Rhine sweep along; heard, or
seemed to hear,
The German songs we used to sing in chorus
sweet and clear.
Yes, that is where his heart would be, that
is where his last thoughts would be, the
"soldier OF the legion" who "lay dying in
Algiers."
And by and by you are III German region,
which you discover to be quito different
from the recent Swiss lands behind you.
You have sea before you; that is to say.
the green land goes rolling away, in ocean
swells, to the horizon. And there Is another
new feature. Here and there, at wide
intervals, you have islands, hills 200 and 800
feet high, OF ha, stack form, that rise
abruptly out Of the green plain, ana are
wooded solidly on the top. On the top there
is just room for a ruined castle, and there it
is, every time; above the summit you see the
crumbling arches and broken towers pro-
jecting.
Beyond Stuttgart, next day, you find other
changes still, BY and by, approaching and
leaving Nuremberg and down by Newhaus,
your landscape is bumped everywhere with
scattered knobs Of rock, unsociable craGs Of
q rude, tower-like look, and matched with
grass and vines and bushes. And now and
then you have gorges, too, of modest pat
tern as to size, with precipice walls curiously
carved ana hOneycombed by-I don't know
what; but water, no doubt.
The changes are not done yet, for tho in
stant the country finds it Is out Of Wurtem-
berg and into Bavaria it discards one more
thickness Of soil to go with previous disrob-
ings, and then nothing remains over the
bones but the shift. There may be a poorer
soil somewhere, but it is not likely.
A couple of hours from Bayreuth you cross
into Bohemia, and before long you reach this
Marienbad and recognize another sharp
change-the change from the long ago to to-
day; that is to say, from the very old to the
spick and span new; from an architecture to-
tally without shapellness or ornament to an
architecture attractively equipped with both;
from universal dismalness as to color TO uni
versal brightness and beauty of tint; from
town which seems made up of prisons to
town which is made up of gracious and grace
full mansions proper to the light of heart and
crimeless. 1t is like jumping out Of Jerusalem
into Chicago.
The more think of these many changes,
the more surprising the thing seems. / have
never made so picturesque a journey before,
and surely there cannot be another "Trip OF
like length in the world that can furnish so
much variety and of so charming and inter-
esting O sort.
There are only two or three streets here in
this snug POCKET i'll the Hemlock hills but
they are handsome. When you stand at the
foot OF street. and look up the slant of it
you sec only block fronts of graceful pattern,
with happily broken lines, aud the pleasing
accent OF bay projections and balconies in or
derly disorder and harmonious confusion and
always the color is fresh ana cheery, various
shades of cream, with softly contrastin q trim
mings of white ana now and then touch of
dim red. These blocks are all thick walled,
solid, massive, tall, for this Is Europe but it,
Is the brightest and newest looking town or
the continent, and as pretty as anybody could
require. The steep hills spring high aloft
from the very back doors, ana are clothed
densely to their tops with hemlocks.
In Bavaria every body Is in uniform, and
you wonder where the private citizens are,
but here In Bohemia the uniforms are very
rare. Occasionally one catches glimpse OF
an Austrian officer, but 1t Is only occasionally.
Uniforms are so scarce that we seem TO be in
republic. Almost the only striking figure
Is the Polish Jew. He Is very frequent. He
Is tall and Of grave contenance, and wears a
coat that reaches to his ankle bones, and he
has little wee curl or two in front OF each
ear. He has prosperous look, and seems to
be as much respected as any ybody.
The crowds that drift along the promenade
at music time twice o day are fashiOnably
dressed after the Parisian pattern. aud they
look good deal alike, but they speak lot OF
languages which ! ou have not encountered
before, and no ignorant persons can spell
tuoif hnmes, anu thoy CahI prououuco tneu
themselves.
Marienbad-Mary's Bath. The Mary is
the virgin. She Is the patroness Of these
curative springs. They try to cure every
thing; gout, rheumatism, leanness, fatness,
dyspepsia, and all the rest The whole thing
Is the property OF a convent and has been for
600 or 700 years. However, there was never
boom here until quarter of . century ago.
A Tough Health Drill.
II q person has the gout, this Is what they
do with him: They have him out at 10 IN
the morning, and give him an egg and let
him look at a cup Of tea. AT o he must be at
his particular spring, with his tum bier hang
Ing at his belt-and he will have plenty of
company there AT the first note OF the or
chestra he must lift his tumbler and begin TO
sip bis dreadful water with the rest He
must sip slowly and be long time at it.
Then he must tramp ABOUT the, hills for an
hour OF So and get all the exercise aud fresh h
air possible. Then he takes his tub or wal
lows In mis- mud, IL mud baths are his sort.
BY noon he has a fine appetite, and the rules
allow him to turn himself loose now and sat
isfy II, so long as he Is careful ana eats only
suoh things as he doesn't want. He puts IN
the afternoon walking the hills ard filling up
with fresh air. Al night he is allowed 70
take three ounces of any kind OF food ne
doesn't like. aud drink one glass Of any kind
OF liquor that he has prejudice against; he