The record-union., 1892-01-16

wlthstanding siege; and the alcobas or
tiny sleeping-rooms were no larger than
prisoners cells of modest size. Indeed,
the prison effect was enhanced by the
rlVeted and bolted doors of chestnut, six
inches thick, in which were iron latticed
gratings with little slides behind; while
where windows should have been were
only tiny grated holes splayed outwardly
through the huge stone wall.
No monks cell could have been more
secure or austere, and Dobrado told me
that this sort OF a structure was greatly
in favor in the time of such grand rob-
bers as Giraldo, of Alfonso Henrique's
time, who often secured large booty at
less defensible inns, when abbots, frarS
or merchants were travelling with treas
ure. The belongings Of my odd room
comprised huge pewter wash-basin set
upon the floor, a coarse linen towel am
pie enough Tor toga in lieu of other gar
ments, one chair or stool constructed of
rawhide thongs stretched over a hollow
framework, a bed Of four legs set into a
huge frame with slaves bound across the
thongs, on which were a shapeleSs sack
of sweet corn-husks and wooden blankets,
hand-woven by the peasant women of
the district, while at the head of the bed,
hanging from an iron spike imbedded in
stone wall, was little pewter crucitix.
When morning came | found the in
terror, the pateo or court Of the old inn,
most odd and charming. All sorts OF
quaint utensils and furniture were scat
tered along its sides. A narrow gallery
ran around the entire second story, with
here and there bird in cage and a semi
tropical plant. On one of it's sides some
pretty vines creptu against the old walls
IN Vagrant, luxurious way, while the
roof of half-round tiles extended dis
lance over the galleries, leaving generous
opening to the sky above. The whole in
terror, while a picture Of medieval quaint
ness, was a structural compromise be-
tween the closed abodes Of northern
chimes and the lovely half garden house
court of the tropics; a suggestion of snug
ness and protection from whiStling winds,
and as true tribute to Zephyrous airs
and genial sky.
But opposite my chamber, along the
shadowy end of the court, was the surest
sign of equable cline and summary days.
That was my breakfast Oking in the
open air-not upon a stove, nor in a fire
place, nor yet by any of the ruder devices
our American grandmothers knew.
Heavy fiat stones furnished q sort OF
raised rocky dais as high as the knees OF
the ancient senhora who was bustling
about the court. On this dais furZe fagots
were burning in two tiny fires no bigger
than your fists. Above one of these, on a
triangular piece OF iron, something was
grilling. Above the other, in copper
pot, held there from long distance by q
wooden pike beneath its bale or handle,
something was stewing. Between bars
and snatches of song, maiden of ample
bust and hips, with arms akimbo and
hands pressing against the sides of her
scarlet bodice. converted herself into a
human blowpipe, feeding the flame OF
furZe with such blasts from her powerful
lungs as would for the time completely
hidelthe two females in kind of volcanic
shower of ashes, the volumes of smoke
swirling away toward the clouds through
the eyer-open roof of the court. Thus
for an hour came song and smoke and
women and fire, when was most cere-
moniously conducted to my almoco or
breakfast.
The table was bare of covering, but
amends were made in dishes and their
contents. A tremendous frasca para vinho
or wine f1agon or glass with a pewter
goblet at its side contained fully two gal
Ions OF the cheap, wine Of Alemtejo. A
brown earthen plate before me held a
slice Of grilled Portuguese bacon OF
mighty proportions. A sweet potato or
yam, big as a cuspidor, stood steaming
alongside. A basin containing some mys-
terious stew thanked the yam; and piled
before me In an actual reckleSsness OF
muntflcence was mountain of cornmeal
rock. tor all this service, including my
nights lodging and the care of Dobrado
and the other donkeys, with the countless
blessings of God and Good Voyages ~
showered upon us at departure, l was
only called upon to pay sum equal to
about forty cents in American money.
At villeggiatura or gentleman farm
er's home-as all farmers in Portugal
above the grade of peasants are called
OrU9nOS a Dpntlanpn
we sought shelter from shower and
after the custom of the Portuguese were
not permitted to depart for a day, had
opportunity of briefly studying the Por-
tuguese country gentleman's home. Near
all large cities the morgado only comes to
his country home in summer. But at
this distance from Lisbon many live at
their villas the year round, visiting Lis
bon in the gay winter season.
These villas of the better class are all
on one general pattern. a high-walled
courtyard in front, filled with ancient
orange trees, half hides a low, large house
of heavy architecture, whose walls ex-
tend far to the rear and form another
courtyard of vast proportions. filled with
home and farm belongings. This is gen
orally the lounging and play spot for
numerous servants and children. The
interiors are quaint in huge rooms,
strangei reconstruct staircases, old gal
leries, and invariably a tiny chapel,
where mass is said for the family and de-
pendents on Saints day. These homes
will possess many objects of refinement,
but seldom any books. Occasionally
beautiful statuary is seen. Odd ornaments
in metal, and gargoyle water-spouts and
fountain pieces are common. Curious
old paintings and extraordinary speci-
mems of china are in every home; and
the guitar, though seldom any other must
cal instrument, will be found in nearly
every room in the house. In every vii
leggiatura in Portugal the stranger and
the friend are alike welcome.
Its exterior and Surroundings are
quaint, dreanfful and charming. In this
| portion of Portugal verdure is never alb
sent. The roses never cease blooming,
and the songs of the birds are never done.
Avenues of oyerreaching camellia and
orange trees lead from the villa to a score
| of places upon the farmstead-among
them to the graneries, to the threshing-
floor, to the roadway, to the ancient nora
or water-wheel, where bliudtolded oxen
tread round and round raising the water,
which is sent in stone troughs to villa
cascades and fountains, and to countless
| places in the gardens and fields. Every
where that labor is done, save in the
| fields, are shade and blossom and nesting
birds; and while life here possesses none
| of the thrilling pace and fine friction we
| know, it is always one of easy labor,
ample content and languorous repose
EDGAR l.. WAkEMAN.
Safety in the Midst of Danger.
This would seem a contradictions So