Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1892-12-25
WINTER FASHIONS.
FRocks FOR STREET WEAR ARE IN
VARlABLY FUR-TRlMMED.
Fetching Shapes In the Millinery Of the
Day-Evcning Gowns of the swsgger
Gifls-Empiro Modes Once More.
[Core.pondencc Of the Rlchmona pI.patch.l

tCorrespondonce Of tho Richmond DIspatch.l
New York, December 24.-Wnter street
costume has one prerequisite to complete
ness which is rather obvious and which,
perhaps, every woman first consults in de-
vising her out-of-door gown at the present
season. That is, warmth. But tho pre-
yailing fashions have determined that
whether the reality Of warmth be present
or not, the appearance Of the dress must
tho rigors Of q Russian climate. Thus
every frock which is devised for street
wear-and some that are not-ls fur-trim-
med.
One Of the seasons designs exhibited
here by an English ladies' tailor Is in q
diagonal serge. terra-ootta color. The
shirt has the double pockets in front which
are becoming modIsh. Around the bottom
IS q double band of mink enclosing bor-
der OF eadet-blue cloth trayersed by an
embroidery of blue. terra Gotta and silver
braid. The waist has velvet zousve in
shade OF mahogany, edged in the same
manner as the skirt. Underneath appears
tie serge folded across the bust.
UGLY BUT STYLISH.
A frock in an ugly-but stylish-cross-
barred tweed was made with q tight
sheath skirt, edged with silver fox. The
bodice fastened across the bust, the line
Ct fastening running to the opposite hip.
and being indicated by a broad band of
the fuTs. On the bust IL was met with a
similar band from the other shoulder, and
within the V-shsped space thus formed
was vest or plastron OF bluish-gray vel
vet. The sleeves, which were rather closer
TO the arms than they have recently been
1,utda1 haIpuv cha al
bows by clrclets of fur, being Of the
tweed above and of the velvet below, with
cuffs of fur at the wrists.
soFT FELT sLoUCHEs.
Street hats are prone to flatness. One
of the fetching shapes Of the day is O soft
felt. slouched down over the forehead al
most like a "wide-awake" only that 1t is
all quite fat. It's sole trimming consists
of tremendous alsatlan bow of satin,
which appears to take the place of the
crown. Another fat felt-tnIs being a
stiff shape-peaks out forward TO o pretty
sharp point, turning up launtlly behind.
The crown 10 the most insignificant feature
of this hat, and the central portion ls &C
cupied by O ribbon bow from which o
pigeon wing energies, sloping backward.
There Is another bow of ribbon attached
Just inside the hat behind, so as to tall
against the rather high little knot into
which the back-hair Is lately screwed
up. A picturesque velvet hat takes
the form OF the continental" or three
corneTed headgear of our forofathers.
distinctive feminine grace is added to
the hat by feather aigrette which springs
from the front cock" Little velvet Ca
potes are by no means outside the pale OF
fashion, but they have always been rele-
gated to matronly heads. They do, in
deed, in measure, separate and dlstin-
guish the wed from the slngly blessed, for
somehow the nppellation "glrlish" could
never be applied 20 the capote. 10 gives
quite settled effect TO the face. and
while young women are permitted to
adopt II immediately on leaving the ranks
of the maiden sistethOod 1t Is yet not a
Young woman's chosen headgear. Toques
and turbans are almost invariably trimmed
with fur, and they are made very often
az s,ate with the street frock, including in
their composition botn the cloth and the
trimming Of the latter, to which may be
added rhinestone ornaments aud ribbon
bows.
CLOTH EVENING GOWNS.
Among the features of the season are the
cloth evening gowns. These are fur
trimmed, and although the idea seemed
odd enough when introduced last season
many swagger girls have adopted 1t. In
deed, 70 be distinctly stylish one must
have q cloth dancing dress. White 10 to
be preferred. the material being one of
those fine English or French fabrics known
a. faced" cloths, or else tho heavier
grades of ladies' cloths. The dress should
be quite plainly made, as the central idea
is extreme simplicity. The corsage Is 10
be SQUARE and edged with sable or some
other dark fur. whose contrast against the
white flesh of the chest and arms 10 one OF
the charming features of the gown. The
fur reappears as the border to the skirt,
which must be quite sbort--that IS, or the
brlefest deni-train" length.
REVIVAL.
Empire modes have made their way to
the front, despite some discouragements
gwen t. them even in the city of their
blrth-for j. was announced that Partisan
ladies would not accept the revival. Never
theless. Paris Bankruptcies now show few
other designs than those of the Empire
and the Restoration for evening wear.
Perhaps the revival OF these early modes
has something to do with the popularity
of the bal pOudre as an evening entertain
ment this winter. Anumber Of such fuDc-
tions are promised.
One effect Of Empire fashions Is the ne
cessitv for a change in the Embarrassing.
Beneath an Empire gown 1t 10 absolutely
impossible to wear the ordinary corset,
cd from the shoulders and terminating be-
low the bust, Is worn. The petticOat IS
also remodelled, and starts almost beneath
the arms.
VARIOUS OTHER MOTIFS.
Photography has produced no prettier
effects than the charming watch-case min
iatures that the jewellers arc showing.
One NAV have any portrait transferred To
the smooth golden surface of the inner
watch-case. For soureair purposes nothing
could be more desirable.
More velvet and the new MORE Persian
lamb were brought together IN recent
carriage gown, with beautiful effect.
The skirt of the prevailing evening cos
tune is not complete without the addition
OF a single Immense bow OF ribbon near
the foot and in the centre.
Draped bodices distinguish somo OF the
recent creations in ballroom toilettes,
draperies being added Of lace or chiffon
from the edge of the corsaGe opening.
The STYLES of 1891 seem 30 be languishing
before getting fair start and we do not
see many of the new designs following
ideas distinctiveiy belonging to that
period.
The present street skirt is built on the
beil6 model, although OF mucn greater
width and fulness than the original skirt
Of that name.
With some notifications, the Russian
blouse IS still seen; and many indoor
toilettes continue to reproduce the idea OF
IL