Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1892-01-14
WAXING cLoAKs.

In tbese DAYS when well fitting styi,
;sb comfortable cloaks and jackets oi
aood materials may be bought LOT very
I;ttlo money. compared with the prices
- olooks of materials that may be more
costlv but not more stylish in cut the
wonder is that the styles are not more
varied The styles are more Varieu
Than those of the outer garments Loi
,non bpt hundreds of cloaks OF tile
same pattern may be seen in the streets
any day. .,.s on
Cloaks and jackets are garments OF
vbicb women cannot show much orig
inality In making them at home as
thew can on dresses, and the styles are
therefore. fixed by the designers EN-
Moved by manufacturers. In many III
stances the style depends on the mate
rial TO be used, as it would be useless
TO design a style with many pui1s ana
folds for thick and heavy material
Resides. If a style be good it is accept
able to many women, no matter "heVh-
or IL be unsuitable to their figures OF
ont of harmony with the rest OF theH
costumes
In making cloaks, where the demand
NAV be sometimes for 500 Of certain
stvle, each piece of cloth is thoroughly
examined by experts in regard to meas
ure. texture and color, and then 1t Is
sponged by machinery made especially
for that purpose. All smooth cloths
and those with finished faces are
sponged by copper rolls, and the ma
chinery Is so arranged that from the time
the cloth starts to 60 over the rolls unth
it is folded dry it is not touched by the
operator. The cloth is then ready for
the cutters, with all its imperfections
marked. Each cutter has separate
check on which have been entered the
particulars about the cloth, style and
proper patterns. If the quantity be
large enough for the cutting machine
it is marked and laid in folds but small
pieces are cut by hand with shears.
After the cloth has been cut accord
ing to the provided patterns the bundles
are carefully compared with the orders,
and then a ticket is made for each gar
ment, on which is a place for each
worker to put his or her number, so
that a complete record is kept of every
hand that works on the garment. The
garments then go to the seamers, who
are employed the year round, to seam
them on machines specially adjusted for
that particular work, being provided
with fixed gauge that insures per
fectly uniform seam. Expert seamers
can work at machines that make 8, 00G
stitches a minute.
For the detection Of any possible mis-
takes and lmperfections in the fit the
garments are tried on figures before be-
ing sent to the trimmers The collars,
cuffs, facings, ETC.. Of each garment are
cut according to the style designed, and
with the main part of a garment sent
to a workman who particularly excels
in a certain style. After leaving the
hlllolSl CilS SdllhCHO 10 lllSpSCItu dSdlL
by the foreman, and if it be not salts
factory it goes back to the workman
for alterations.
After the making of buttonholes and
the sewing on of buttons and orna-
ments the garments go to the presser,
and from him to the final examiners,
who are responsible for the fit and
workmanship, and who see that the
materials and trimmings are right, and
that any changes that may have been
ordered to suit certain customers have
been properly made. Then they are
ready for packing and shipping. Rec
ords of the shape, cloth, trimmings and
buttons, or any other parts of the gar
ment, are kept in duplicate, so that a
copy of any garment can be made at
any time. Sometimes garments that
are in fashion in this part of the coun-
try for a year do not reach some states
until a year or more afterward, when
some particular style may be favored
more than another, and the orders for
it be larger than those for any other.
| By turning to the records exact dupli-
Gates of any style can be made at any
time, provided the material be in the
market. New York Sun.