The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1892-11-28


as to protect the bottoms of the skirts
from becoming dampened.
Mrs. Jennes Miller in speaking on the
subject of a suitable dress for the street,
says.
"a short dress is the only convenient
dress for a busy woman who is compelled
60 go out in all kinds OF weather, to getin
and out of public c~onveyances that will
hardly stop long enough to permit the
most hurried entrance aud exit before
they are off again. to say nothing about
the necessary freedom for hands and
arms that are forever employed with
bundles, satchels and other articles. My
idea of a perfectly practical street dress
for busy women is one that shall conform
to the demand for freedom of movement
and yet preserve artistic harmony in pro-
portion. The reason why a dress coming
to the boot tops o. a little below is re-
jected by the eye is because the length
does not show enough of the leg to sug-
gest~ proportion, and the foot seems over
large in consequence. Grace demands
that all gowns shall be one of three
lengths. First, where the skirt falls just
below the knee, and is met by a perfect
fitting gaiter of the same material; next.
that which merely clears the ground; and
last. the we'll hung train. which is suit
able for house, carriage and evening
dress only. Each of these three lengths
it adapted for certain occasions. and
neither should be worn out of place or
season."
Pins are no longer exclusively black
and white. They come in every shade of
color, So that they may be used lavlshly
upon the toilet without fear of showing.
This invention fills u real want, for our
women lave thoroughly acquired the
lesson first taught by the French milf
ners; that bows and many of the sex's
little trappings carelessly pinned. here
and there, retain a jaunty air that stitches
eliminate by their prim precision.
The newest cloth materials are revivals
of the old fashioned reps.
Violet combines beautifully with green
velvet for millinery purposes.
A pretty berthe, which will brighten
up u dark bodice. is easily made of some
light chiffon and lace to match. The
shape is like a long collar, with a frtll of
deem lace all around it and a putting of
next the neck is a pulled draping of chit
fon, ending in a full chou of chiffon.
Macy sleeves, particularly for wraps
aud outdoor costumes, have a low puff to
the elbow and the rest falls bell shape to
below the wrist. Bishop sleeves, with
deep cuffs, are also in vogue. =
Velvets are decidedly in V this win
ter. They are used not only for entire
costumes and mantles, but for trimmings
Upon dresses, and very much on hats and
bonnets. The new colors in which they
are dyed are lovely, and the pile is of ex-
ceeding richness, combined with close
ness, so that We seem at least to meet
with the happy medium between cut
plush, which is somewhat heavy, aud the
old fashioned velvet, which lacks the ak
quisjte Iustre of the new manufacture.
New paSSementerieS and galloonS are
made up of heavy silk cords. open meshes
and MEETINGS, pendants u Hungarian
drops, arranged to give an ope lace and
lattice effect.
aud also spiked frInges, with rich passe-
menterie headings. Some of these are
mixed with cut jet and iridescent beads;
others are Jufted with velvet; Others
again are enriched with gold and copper
threads and cabochons.
Ornamented blouse bodices are a feat
ure for house wear. Dainty ones are
with pulled sleeves. Lace adds material
ly. A pretty way to trim such a waist Is
to outline the lace around the neck and
let it fall gracefully outward in a full
frill, which is Topped on the shoulder.
Fur Is used to trim most OF the ele giant
street dresses, at present. Most of the
skirt bands are very narrow. Mink,
which is the most used. is especially
handsome when made of the long, dark
tails sewed together in a band, These
narrow bands edge bolero jackets, dress
fronts, collars and sleeves. as well as
skirts, although many French dress
makers are using several bands. some
reaching almost up to the knee.
The prevalence of light-colored wool
costumes this season will be In marked
contrast 10 the equally fashionable deep
toned gowns and Jackets. In addition to
faced cloth and the lighter Venitian
cloths, there will be worn plain cancels
hair costumes very rough of surface.
frequently lined across with bars of raised
shaggy camel's hair in contrasting colors.
Light colored French felt hats and bon
nets will be worn en- suite. There also
appear again neat and stylish head cover
ings made OF cloth maching the costume,
these largely In toque or turban shapes
toques, on the whole, still taking the
lead.