The record-union., 1892-06-15

ing GrapeS-Too Much Like Cali
fornia-Grease on Chickens-Center
for California miscellaneous
Items.
In its broad sense, the term grating,
or graftage, includes all there is to bud
ding, for budding is simply grating
while the tree is growing. But as gener-
ally used the term budding applies to the
process by which a bud of the season is
removed from its parent and is induced
TO grow upon some congenial stock. In
the Northern States it is a method COM
monty practiced TO change the bearing of
all stone fruits, ounces, apples and pears,
all of which bud very easily. Many or
namental trees and plants are propagated
by budding, as, for instance, some varie-
ties of the elm, maple, poplar, birch, etc.
Budding is generally done on Seeding
stocks as near the ground as practicable,
but it may be done on any growing part
where the bark is not too hard and stiff 10
bend easily. 1t is often used to change
the bearing Of trees Of medium size.
In a general way budding may be
ucBe dJ dLy IliIlS Wn6n Il6 DdEk Will peel
and the buds sufficiently matured on the
new wood. The proper time will be in
1iuenced by the kind of stock used, the
season, and sometimes by the attacks of
insects and fungus diseases. For in
stance, the apple is best budded the latter
part of August, but if the stocks are
attacked by some insect or fungus disease
that Injuries the foliage the first of Au
gust growth OF the stocks will be soon
checked, and they must be budded at
once or not at all a period of drought
may check growth, and III similar man
ner make early budding necessary. If
considerable pruning is necessary to
make a suitable place for the bud, il
should be done at least two weeks before
budding is commenced, for ii heavily
pruned at budding time the shock to the
stock is injurious and may stop its growth
and prevent the success Of the operation.
If the stocks are growing very fast. it is
often best TO delay the operation until the
wood has become hardened.
A common shoe-knife, with the point
rounded off, is very cheap and yet a
most excellent form of budding-kniie.
There are many kinds Of l. nives designed
for this purpose on the market, most of
them with an ivory point or blade for
lifting the bark, but the rounded corner
of the shoe-knife is just as good as the
best ivory blade for this purpose, and
shoe-knife costs only fifteen cents at the
most, while commonly advertised bud
ding-knives cost at least one dollar each.
Besides knife, one must be equipped
with tying material, and for this purpose
bass mating is perhaps the best but cot
ton warp is good, and If these materials
are not at hand, woOlen yarn will do
fairly well. y tying material called
raphia is largely used for this purpose,
but think it not so good as bass mat
ting, though i often use much of it. The
requisite in good tying material is that
1t shall not stretch or shrink when eX-
posed to the weather.
The conditions of success are: l. The
stock and scion should be perfectly
healthy and free from insects, and grow
ing so that the bark will peel easily. 2
The buds must be well matured 3. The
knife must be sharp. 4. The work must
be done rapidly. 5. The buds must be
firmly and evenly bound into place. No
wax is needed.
When everything is ready for the work
prepare lot of bud-sticks by cutting off
all but one-half inch of the leaf stock.
They should be shoots of the seasons
growth that are not too Succulent. The
buds about midway the length of shoot
are generally the best. These bud-sticks
should be carried in the field wrapped in
moist cloth or oiled paper. If it is neces-
s2ry to store them after they are cut,
they should be kept in a cool PLACE in
moist moss or sawduSt. but not in water.
To insert the bud a smooth place should
be selected ION the small stocks about two
inches from the ground) on the north
side. as buds are less injured by freezing
on that side A cross cut should be made
at this point, and from it a longitudinal cut
about one and halt inches long,. at the
same time the bark should be raised.
bud-stick is then taken, and with the
sharp knife cut is made just through
the bark about one-half inch above the
i I'll .
the bark and bud. For peaches. the
whole bud need not exceed one-ha inch,
while for apples, ETC., the bud should be
at least one inch long.
After the bud is cut off the lower point
is inserted under the back at the cross
cut, and gently pushed down by the leaf
stock. If the bark will not raise when
the bud is thus pushed down. the stock is
not in the best condition for budding,
and the bark may have TO be raised a lit
tie with the knife-blade
After the bud is in place it should be
wrapped firmly and evenly into place
one end of the tying material is held be-
low the bud with the left hand. and the
long end is wrapped, first upward and
then downward, over the bud, drawing il
into place; the ends are then tied to-
gether below the bud. The bands should
be watched, and when they draw too
tight, looSened; when the bud is united
the bands should be removed altogether
The buds should remain dormant until
the following spring, when the part of
the stock above the bud should be cut off,
and the bud thus forced into growth
Farm and Fireside.
CALIFORNIA WINES.
California will soon lead all nations or
sections in the production Of wines and
brandies, says the Chicago Tribune, ex-
cepting, of course, France and its north
arn .cnmntiaS ere sandinr ont linht d,..-