The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-07-06
VAEENANS EANDERlNCS
TRAMP THROUGH CORNWALL

Copyright, lsE. Dy Edgar J.. Na"eHah-l
TRr-Ro. Cornwall. June Almost until
today. as time is measured, Cornwall has
been to the remainder Of England q yerita-
HE tara inc0Quit1. West Barbary" n
was contemptuously called TO describe its
uncauuiness, its supposed ignorance and
ITS popularity accredited semibarbarism
What weird and desolate Connemara IN
Ireland's wild west Is and has always been
10 the Green isle, this SCARED and ragged
peninsula has been 10 England.
OF its 10000 souls one-tenth, from youth
10 death. in darkness pick and blast in
shift and drift beneath its windswept
moors. Until century since distinct
lanQuage.the Cornubian Celtic was spoken
taught and preached Today IN some Of
the larger towns "the purest English
spokeu" Is said 20 prevail, but again today
not a league from these towns, among
fisher folk. miners and peasants an ordina-
~ Fnzlishmau or American can scarcely
understand q word uttered. Yet here are
life and scene of the greatest fascination;
both life and scene of simplicity, beauty
and grandeur. while romance and legend
GLOW woudrously Do every tor. c0mbe and
stream. romance and legend the oldest and
most wins0me IN all England. Here lived
or were born 20 deathless legend Arthur
Launcel0t and Guinevere and the brave
old Round Table knights.
IL is curious shaped bit Of land, this
rugged old Cornwall Its geographic con-
tour suggests the strange silhouette OF
some couchaut gigantic mastih or huge
wild beast. To Is easy 90 seeln ITS southern
most outreaching IFS two powerful lore
feet. In it's northern coast line viii be
found It's braccd and hristling back. I'D us
most northern projection viii he seen an
erect and defiant TAIL Units eastern Devon
shire boundary are It's massive launches
and hind feet wedged against the eternal
granite Of Devon And its farthcrmost
sea split. ocean battling pr0mOntory the
omen mouth of the stone leyiathan, sets
savaQelv toward the seething Scilly isles
forever dashed with spuue and fume OF ITS
interminable battles with the Atlantic.
Were You 10 stand as ] have done, on
Ucnsbarr0y. one Of its drear and highest
peaks. YOU could see smiling Devon TO tue
east. almost 10 Lands End, its farthe-t
westward walk to Lizard Head, its re-
hottest southern hoadland. across It's enc
tire reach of hills and moorlands, far out
upon ST. Georges channel 10 the north
west. and over the white sails of fisher and
coaster 20 the southeast, even 90 the dim
cone of that most wondrous OF an mariners
beacons. the splendid Eddystoue light
house.
But standing on that spot little else than
apparent desolation meets the eye. The
moorlauds stretch dolorously, as if in
boundless loneliness. The tors or hills
are bleak and bare. The whole face of MAJ
ture seems torn and SCARED, as if by tre-
meudous elemental struggles. Yet AN
these cayerns and chasms which dishgure
10 were made by the hand of man. Its
granite. shale and slate hid copper, tin and
iron For more than 5000 years its sur
face has been cleft and its depths gOred
and bored until It's face is pittcd as If with
extinct volcanoes. whose bases were honey
c0mbed sometimes 90 miles depth and
often laterally so far outward beneath the
ocean that IT'S very shell was cracked and
broken, until 20 prevent the sea dropping
through, the bottom was stuffed and
plugged and soidered like a leaky old ba-
sin.
This is what You will see and feel and
know among the downs and tors along the
rocky backbone of Cornwall But along
the north coast in summer, and every
where upon the south coast iu summer and
nearly all winter are never ending sur
prises Of scenic beauty. Indeed the entire
south English and Irish COASTS are almost
semitropic lands. Semtropic bits of land
surely can be found, for I have seen at
D. uH
Outh. iu England, az Truro. Falmouth and
Penzance. in Cornwall and ut NoughaL
alongside Sir Walter Raleighs old home,
iu Ireland, roses in full bloom and luur-
antly f0laged myrtle ont OF doors in mid
( winter.
Along the way am leisurely tramping.
with the English channel nearly aiways n
sight. are inuumerable Cornish valleys of
slumbrous beauty Tiny burns and combes
are cut through the walls by the sea-
| Through every one limpid streams SING
ing and tumbliug 10 the ocean Along the
valley sides are white hamicts. or the
| quaint old homes. the rich acres and the
| sleek herds of the thrifty farmers Of Corn
wall
Tramp these coast roads but mile and
/ lovely vales-the stream, the farms half
hidden by generous foliage d0ttug the
/ sides far up the combe as the eye can
reach. here "a rumbling old mill, there d
| nesting church, below YOU "a quaint Ola
/ village. beyond, the tiny haven shirted by
/ the homes Of fishers and speckcd by odd
/ old fishers crafts farther. tide plow.Dg
| up between massive haven walls on a
/ stretch Of low tide rock and drift, and at
/ last the bright blue sea. Beautiful scenes
/ are these for the eye and heart-miud TO
dwell upon. hardly SO Doe found in such
number and winsomeness anywhere else
upon all Of England's coast.
just before you pass from DeyoushirC
| into Cornwall you Will find most intense
the English suspicion that the Cornish folk
are "a sort 81 barbarians The landlord Of
the little inn where lodged In Plymouth
though admitting that be had never crossed
the lamar, commiseratingly ventured the
! sympathetic remark that he'd be blessed II
be wouldn't prefer Whitechapel 70 Corn
/ wall
wy u them Cousin Jacks knows nowt
bat tin, he edded. with "a flourish. "Nig
ger blood In 'em, too they do say. Black
us pit mouth 'alf on 'em. An blessed \
youu get E0wt { eat befter'n 'oggans n
laggaus, from Saltash TO Lands Heud"
His words were true as 10 the darl, com
pleNious OF most OF the Cornish people. III
a miles distance of Devonshire You an,
/ qrrorp qrcf hor race Of mon than tIe 9. &,