Weekly graphic. [volume] (Kirksville, Adair Co., Missouri) 1880-1949, 1892-07-20

| criticism upon til omestic manufacturers,
reiterated during tho debate In tho House OF
Representatives. is that tho wool tarln Ind
driven them into lamentable use OF shoddy
and other substitutes for WOOL that the charac-
ter of domestic fabrics had rapidly deteriorated.
and that tho American people can no longer OBJ
tain allwool goods, but are defraudeh aud Dc.
lceived by the aduterated fabrics forced upon
them
This charge Is wholly false. 1t originates In
Ignorance OF tho conditions aud tho advance
Of wool manufacture in all countries.
CENSUS STATISTICS.
Tho census shows that there manufac-
ltured In The United States, in 1890, III otS. 1b3
lsquare yards OF al-wool and wOrsted goods. OF
tho mill value OF SS2.3li.l9j; OF mixed goods
that Is, OF goods Into the warp or iiiing OF which
shoddy or cotton was cardcd with wooi--56,6l2-
$50 square yards, OF the mill value Of 81. 1861
land NJ goods woven upon cotton warps. l9i.StF.-
is7 squarc yards. OF the mill value of s633s7.0sl.
! There WAS never u time when the proportion
Of all.wool goods made and worn In this country
Twas larger In comparison with the mixed and
cotton goods worn than NJ prosont.
| This IN extraordinary in view of the fact that
the use OF shoddy or renovated wool has reached
n very high development within recent years,
particularly In England.
USE or sHoDDY ABROAD.
shoddy is utilized abroad to an extent un-
droamed OF and unapproachcd by our own man.
ufacturers. The quantity OF shoddy consumed
Iby the British manufacturers Is vastly In ex-
Icess OF the quantity used by our own. while
both use nearly tho same amount OF wool. They
have attained a skill In concealing Its presence.
In utilizing wastes wo still throw away, and In
combining them with fresh material that no
mills In this country can equal.
/ THE ENGLISH sHopDY MANUFACTURE.
l There were In Great Britain In 1889 tsee on
lelal returns under the Factories and Work
lshops act') 125 shoddy mills, employing 4.5,5
persons, as compared with the 2.265 persons en-
lployed in our 80 shoddy mills in 1890. No
lonicial return Is made OF the product OF these
mills but from other data accessible IL is esti-
Imated to exceed by four times the total con-
tho United States.
While 3.2S6, ,ae0 spindles In the United States
consumed over 900 pounds OF wool Ia 1890,
lover 5000 600 spndles in the wooden and yorsted
mills Of Great Britain consumed but i70.J0OCOO
pounds of wool. A considerable proportion OF
this great discrepancy may be explained by the
larger production Of line counts or yarn In that
country; but it Is evident that TO keep these
20 900 spindles supplied there must have been
enormous quantities OF shoddy and cotton pass
ing over them.
LESS sHoDDY USED IN THE UNITED STATES
These statistics prove that the duty on wool
has nothing to do with the comparative quantt-
ties of wool and substitutes for wool used
in the industry, here or elsewhere. From every
point Of view the same conclusion is irresistibly
forced upon US. The American people, with
taxed wool, use every year two pounds per
'lcapita more wool than the people OF Great
Britain. enjoying the advantage or free wool.
much smaller than that OF the English people.
CHEAP GOODS DEMANDED.
i Tho manufacture OF adulteratcd goods Is moi
primarily the work of the manufacturer him
self. These goods. like others. are made upon
orders; they are made ana sold because there IL
q demand for them. There is demand for
:, them because the people who use them lind that
when well made they are slightly and service
able. and we'll worth the money they cost. II
!, wool was free, this demand for q fabric cheaper
than all-wool would continue, and would pe mel
IN the same manner as now.
THE UTILIZATION OF WASTES.
This cry against wool substitutes Is mainly
founded on Ignorance. Tho utilization OF wastes
Is as legitimate In this industry in any other
+ In every other it is commended by the very
economists who insist that in this particular II
lis an evidence of degradation and deterioration
The discovery that animal and vegetable fibers
lean be combined in q warm, durable and hand
some fabric has been a boon to mankind and
: womankind, not equaled, perhaps, by any thai
Q has occurred since the inTontion OF automatic
. textile machinery.
q The utilization OF wood pulp in the manu-
u facture OF paper has enormously extended Its
use and increased tho educating power OF the
{, printing press. Just the OF substitute:
for wool has added to the comfort Of humanity
n There could not be paper enough made wthou
i the use OF wood pulp To supply the demand. ant
q there is not wool enough grown in the world t
e properly clothe the people inhabiting rigorous
81 iclimates-Fr0a the W:ni1rilt addressed 10 the Sen
ate bythe NltotIt Association Of Wool UpIfac!GI
81 sTs opposed 10 he Free WOOL bill.