davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

almost to the knees of the model girl who
was wearing it for our inspection: but it
really looked too heavy. Possibly the very
warm weather had something to do with
this impression.
DO you think American women have
Worth.
ihey dress a. well as any women in the
world, he replied, land have as good
nSuIes, which they are fond of displaying
10 10 the best advantage, and that is right.
they exercise large influence upon our
fashions and make and unmake to suit them
selves. 1t was owing to your women that
tne panier-basque failed last season; they
wanted their gowns to lie fiat to show the
ngure, and they had their way."
Americans Have Minds of Their Own,
believe this to be sincerely true of our
women, notwithstanding we sometimes, in
splteful moments, accuse each other of
running after strange fashions But we do
know the panier basque did not stake"
any better than poor vaccinate; that the
sacque coat was called all sorts of hard
names and then banished from the country,
and that the French idea of combining half
dozen materials in so many contras ting
colors has never found favor.
One afternoon in NJ Worth's would con-
vince the doubling that, whether tasteful or
not, Americans are not apes, but have the
courage of their convictions.
All OF Worth's saleswomen, forewomen
and foremen speak English as well as they
speak French, ana the great designer him
self is an Englishman, and not French, as
many suppose. The comfort it was to find
our own language "as she is spoke" at this
establishment, of all Others you cannot
know until you come to Paris as we came.
MARY TEMPLE BAYARD.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18
Bits of Persona. Gossfp

Mrs. HENDRICKS. President of the Potomac
W. R. c., is pretty woman, with black eyes
and hair brushed smoothly from the fore
head. She is a good conversationaIist and
is adored by the Potomac W. R. C.
MRS. JOHN DALzELL, Chairman of the Ac-
commodation Committee, is a charming
person OF great tact and the most winsome
manners. Her home is considered one of
the most desirable to enter in the city.
MISS CORA CURRY. Secretary of the COM
mittee, is q sprightly little mortal, with
keen gray eyes and keener wit. She is a
walking cyclopedia of information regard
ing women's oraers and women's rights in
the department-but she does not tell all
that she knows.
MISS BARTON, Chairman OF the Citizens
subcommittee, has the confidence and
respect of Washington; is gracious, not in
the least forbidding, though possessed of
wonderful strength of character She
dresses in black, relieved by magnificent
red cross, the badge OF her order; has kindly
brown eyes and-whisper it softly-wears
glossy brown wig.
Miss HELENA MoCARTHY, Chairman OF the
Press Committee, is the bright ne Ysy, little
woman one would expect to fnd-socially
and journalistically representative, with
black eyes and black hair. To use her own
words: II am native OF Washington, d. c.
My iather was one of the oldest inhabitants,
though born County Cork. ireland, man.
On the same principle. am Irish, too"
Mrs. JOHN A. LOGAN, Chairman of the Re-
ception Committee, is the most popular
woman in Washington. D. c., and the busi-
est She is beautiful, ,queenly in her bearing
and has perfect crown of lovely white
hair. Her home is perfect in appointment
and abounds i'll souvenirs and mementoes OF
the G. A. R., while the kindly eyes of the
mourned her5 look down from numerous
pictures on the wall. Mrs. Logan wears an
open picture of her dead husband at her
throat and dresses in black excepting for
social duties. KATHLEEN HUssEY w ArsoN.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

Saunders then accepted, for the delegates
the courtesies proffered by Miss Barton and
her committee. Double preparations were
in order for the entertainment of the w.
r. c.
The fact became known, and a spirited
three-cornered correspondence follow ed. In
dignation meetings were numerous on both
sides, the trouble increased and peace could
not be restored. Mrs. Saunders dictated to
the Citizens Committee, sent orders to
Mrs. Hendricks, and, it is said, made de-
mand upon the gentlemen of the Executive
Committee for funds for Mrs. Hendricks.
The gentlemen refused to comply; the
tempest in the teapot increased in it's fury.
and as a result there is what nigh be
termed tremendous misunderstandi
VIII H,vs Two Lunches a D,y.
The complications that NAV arise and
really seem n.vitable, have an amusing as
we'll as serious phase. Miss Barton is in
dorsed by the Citizens Committee and the
Ladies' Subcommittee and is upheld bv the
Mrs. Hendricks has back of
her the National President of the w. r G.
and her own Potomac department. Miss
Barton, calmly and serenely, remarks that
the Ladies Citizens Committee has secured
q church, decorated it handsomely, and will
serve luncheon each day during the conyen-
tion for the $50 w. r. C. delegates Mrs
Hendricks has secured building-the
Cochrane-which is being fitted up very
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18
3MKI5NHN
GBTA ll%
A DAY WITH WORTH.

How the Great Fashion Master Caters to
the American Trade-Tourists Go to
Him In FlOcks-Refuses to Let Garments
That Match in Colors Go From His Shop
How He Cuts His Materials.
CORRESPONDENCE OF THE p1srArcH.I
PARIS, Sept. THAT interview with
NJ. Worth came of, and suppose if know
anything at this time it is Paris fashions;
for l have heard them, seen them, felt
them, smelled them and with all nv senses
absorbed them, for fashions are In the air
''Up in the air, Worth says, and so high up,
even he cannot tell to a certainty Just what
they will be when they settle down to the
earth. Notwithstanding this assertion from
the head of the house his very stunning"
corps of saleswomen are showing styles,
which they tell you NJ. Worth himself de-
signed for the coming season and which it
may astonish you to hear are among other
things verv much trimmed skirts. A rival
establishment shows very wide bell
shaped skirts without a particle of trim
ming. They were not long, scarcely V demi-
trains, while NJ. Worth'S skirts are all long,
longer than any we have vet worn.
The length of the coming skirt was the
one point upon which NJ Worth was very
decided and to the inquiry: "Will they be
room so long upon the street," the answer
came promptly enough: Certainly,
Madam, for do you not yourself know a
long dress is more easily managed than
short one? Fashion has not yet decreed
that you wear high topped boots and until
she does, you must wear your skirts below
your ankles Well, then, do you not have
to lift that skirt cut of the dust or water
Just the same?"
In reply made one of those confessions
which high authority tells us are good for
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

the soul and owned up that nv experience
with skirts had taught me his idea was the
correct one, but before giving the long skirt
fair test, L had used reams of paper in
writing it down.
A Pen Picture of the Master.
Monsieur Worth is a most picturesque
figure in his queer little cap. which is a
passamenterie over silk, and his toga worn
q la Roman over his great shoulders. He
is man Of large proportions, 1 scarcely
know another man so large as he looked to
me In his queer costume. His face is fairly
massive ard full of good humor when he is
making himself agreeable, but one which it
requires no stretch of imagination to see
could be most stern and f rbidding
Upon the authority of Madam Hoffman.
one OF the most trusted of his 800 emploves
and to hOm l am indebted for nv inter
view, was very highly favored by Mon
Bleur In being given, not only so much of
his time, but fine steel engraving of his
important-sclf as we'll However, 1 was
not the least fattered, aud thought 1 could
see farther through the milestone, which in
this instance had large hole in 1t made bv
American patronage, than Madam Hoff-
man could or wanted to,
North's establishment upon each oc-
casiOn Of nv several visits there was as full
OF Americans as the deck of transatlantic
steamer. This is the trade catered to at this
season when all monied French people are
"out of town." and / doubt very much if
when home they spend money as Iavishlv
as Americans do, or if they are asked the
same extravagant prices.
This much it seemed to me Monsieur
Worth understood perfectly, since he was
keeping vigilant eve over all by taking a
commanding ooSition uhara ba 90
several rooms at once and direct the numer-
GUS pretty girls, who had their perfect figures
encased in the bewitching creations that
were calculated to tempt the dress loving
women, and women loving men, who were
present to purchase or to order.
Husband Is Doodle Abroad,
Speaking of the men, would recommend
10 a woman dependent upon such means for
what she wears to bring her particular
him" along when she comes abroad, tor
you have no idea how much more patient
and generous husbands are here than at home:
l have STAYED in Worth's sale d'attente, or
show room, until felt that 1 was begin
ming to grow gray, trying to see the limit
OF certain idgety mems patience, and al
WAYS came away and left them there; and 1
have an idea some of them are there yet,
still waiting for their wives to make up
their minds whether they can be as happy,
once they are home in $500 gown as they
could be in the $500. One or the other of
these prices the gown is pretty sure to be-
Out OF compliment to my profession was
oIerei S2JO gown for 500 less money, but |
unless contemplating the stage, / would |
nave had no occasion for the highly colored |
robe, which was assured was Indeed verv |
plan. Plain for France, maybe, but per- |
fectly ''giddy" for America.
The high colors and the unusual combine
tlon Of colors seemed to be the bone of con- |
tention between the American customers
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

and the saleswomen. One New York
woman, who had Mr.. Moneybags along with
her ready to settle any bills OF her contract
ing, had, after seeing several dozens of
many colored robes, decided upon fine
green cloth, with which she wanted some
kind of small wrap, and 1 wish
you could have seen what they
wanted to sell her ! 1t was
nothing less than q magenta red, triple
cape; this with the assurance that the
combination was exquisite The lady eI-
planned that she could not think of wearing
a colored cape on the street, and particular
ly wanted the color of her gown.
One of the Great Mans Secrets.
The saleswoman was then obliged to tell
her she could not get SUITED there, that the
Bon Marche, and other 'shops" were fur
nishing such styles and M. Worth had
given strict orders that no matched gar
ments went out from his establishment.
That is the point Worth makes in all his
styles, the point for which he sweats his
brow and the point that has made and
sustalns his reputation and that commands
the fabulous prices He designs every dress
(called by him, robe) and every wrap that
is sent out from his establishment, and
claims to furnish materials for the same
that no other firm can buy. He expressed
polite regret that l could not be here a
couple OF weeks later when the Younger
Worth, Monsieur Laston, shall have re-
turned from Lyons and Robaix, where he
is at present buying new and taking
materials, upon which the permanent
styles will much depend. NJ Worth
said to me: "It is not so much
we who create the fashion as it is the man.
ufacturers. They make the material, and
of what they make we choose those which
we think will harmonize with the tastes of
our clients, and after we have chosen them
the weaver must make these patterns only
for us; so you see, madam, it is always
exclusive we offer you"
replied that judging from his American
patronage our women must recognize the
e1clusiVeness of his designs if not of the
manufacturers, whereupon he replied with
an attempt at humor: "Oh, but the Amer
leans are good at designing, too; quite as
good; indeed, they are getting too clever,
and think it must be stopped
Not wen-Dressed Crowd.
I do not know if NJ. Worth has been in
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

nicely. and the same w. R. @. delegates
will be served with luncheon each day Of
the convention. The question arises how
can $50 women dispose of 1900 lunches
daily?
Among the guests expected none are
creating more advance interest than the G.
A. r nurses, who will be the recipients of
many little attentions from the grateful
comrades and admiring friends. Miss Bar
ton, very appropriately, will take them
under her wing and will make them special
objects of solicitude 1t is believed that
their presence will do much toward gaining
for them their desired pensions They
intend to form an organization and thus be
able to push their claim more forciably.
A Woman Famous for Her Pickles.
Mother Bickerdyke, who comes from Kan
sas and is very aged, will doubtless be one
of the most conspicuous of the nurses She
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

handkerchiefs are not to be tossed about
carelessly and still preserve their freshness.
But without q maid and with a comparative
ly simple wardrobe, need OF care even
will be found great protection. In put
ting away summer wash dresses they should
be rough dried, then folded neatly and
packed in box or trunk by themselves. 1t
is an excellent idea to go over each one and
take the few mending stitches that are sure
to be needed Challies, crepons and
summer silks should be carefully
shaken and brushed, spots sponged,
bows of ribbon taken off and unmade, if pos
sible, or the dust all carefully wiped off
with bit of silk dipped in weak ammonia
water, and packed away in separate boxes
The same rule applies where laces trim the
dresses If these are washable they should
be washed, otherwise shaken and wound
around bottle or wooden roll. 1t is
good plan to let the dresses hang wrong
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

made her name synonymous with pickles,
if memory errs not, and insisted upon her
soldier boys having onions whenever they
expressed desire tor them. Official rank
had no terror to Mother Bickerdyke. DR..
Susan E lson will also be OF the greatest
possible interest. DR.. Edison enjoys the
double distinction of being G. A. R. nurse
and of having attended President Garfield
in the nursing capacity during his fatal i'll
ness
A special tent has been provided for the
accommodation of these noted women, and
they will have reunion on Thursday after
noon, the 22d. In the evening of the same
day they will attend as guests of distinction
the cat Home given by Miss Barton at
the headquarters of the Red Cross. They
will also appear in body at the Presi-
dents reception and at the great national
reception given in the Capitol rotunda
Monday evening, the 10Th.
The national reception, by the way, was
happy inspiration of Mrs Logan's, who
has the enviable faculty of thinking the
proper thing at the proper moment. What
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

America or how he Judged, for certainly
the crowd of Americans in his sale dat
tante would not lead up to his opinion,
since it looked as if a decent gown could
not be obtained for love or money outside
of Paris. If so, why this rush?
There is not much use in saving "what's
in a name" There is everything in it.
While there we're some exquisite creations
shown, and purchased by Americans under
my eyes at NJ. Worth's, vet there were 9TH
ers that were simply outlandish both in de-
sign and price. 1 know dressmakers in New
York with only local reputation, who could
give a much better fit and make more taste
full creations for one-third the money, but,
not having the name, the cabalistic name of
Worth, they would not be given a trial
In one regard Worth's robes do not differ
from those OF rival establishments, and that
is in the sleeves; they are most frequently
of materials differing from that OF the waist
and are commonly of velvet. Waists are
nearly always round, the skirt of the basque
worn under the dress skirt, the
waist being finished by wide belt of vel
vet or silk, which is laid in folds and
brought together with one large rosette or
two small ones, fastened on one side Where
the waist is not round, then Princess is the
cut, but with slashed skirt showing
georgous petticoat underneath. MANY of
Worth's best designs show panels, let in of
velvet or rich brocade.
He Dotes on High Colors.
Worth's wraps were all colored unless
for woman 102 years old, should Judge
since saw one woman of about go, who was
trying to buy suitable wrap, shown one
CAV thing after the other until she grew
color blind. Turning to me she said.
''Please tell me the color of that thing. for
II cd q. =
blue or green.
The truth is the "thing" was in both
colors-a green velvet wrap half length,
tight back and loose front with blue vel
vet cape split up the back, and trimmed
with wide black lace. The cane formed
the high sleeves The neck was closed
with fancy clasp. The blue and green
were of the shades seen in a peacock's feath-
ers and were naturally pretty together. But
think OF an American woman of 60 in It'll
And yet assure you one of our country
women OF that age is blooming compared to
French woman of the same age, while
Young French women are showily pretty
though mostly made up" as we say; at
middle age they are too stout and have
grown too much beard; and soon after that
they shrivei and become wrinkled as an ac-
Gordon. Yet the wrinkled French woman
would don the blue and green wrap and
drive on the Bois de Boulogne and no one
would call it scandalous.
1t Is Season of Furs
Wraps are mostly sleeveless and of cane
style. This is necessitated by dress sleeves
being SO large, and SO often of velvet, over
which We al know the difficulty of drawing
top sleeves and the ruin thereof. Monsieur
Worth agrees with Doucet, Redfern and
others that this will be another fur season,
and many of his handsomest gowns and !
wraps are fur trimmed. One dress L re- !
well had fur band that reached
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

as she leaves heated ball room or steps out
in o cambric gown on q sharp September
morning. The boas are short, with the tiny
head at one end and the single fluffy tail at
the other, and if you have not yet unearthed
the one you had ten years ago, get it out
without delay and join the fashionable pro-
cession. Ermine boas have also been seen,
and the handsome Canton crepe shawls,
heavy with rich embroidery and long silk
fringes, both heretofore relegated to silver
paper and moth-proof chests, as precious
but very unusuable possessions
Almost as pronounced as the kangaroo
walk, which accompanied the Grecian bend,
is the so-called "Delsarte swing" From
the easy movement which the physical
culturists advocate, the gait has developed
into an ungainIy roll that were it not sane
toned by fashion would be laughed at. To
see a couple of young women under full
headway, oscillating like a sailor ashore,
may be form but it is not pretty spectacle.
*#
'The papers TEEN with advice to stout
women on how to rid themselves of super
fuous fesh," said a woman who is not
stout, the other day, ''but seldom find
paragraph on the opposite side of the ques-
tion. should be very glad to take on a
few pounds of avoirdupois and in recent
visit to my physician, asked him how I
could accomplish it. To begin with, he
said, don't worry, and between times, don't
worry. 1 never saw a thin woman yet, he
went on, who was not nervous one and
worry is a large part of nerves Stout
women are often nervous as well, but thin
20 ha bo-
become thoroughly imbued with the de-
STABILITY of calmness in all emergencies
some other aids to flesh are plenty of sleep,
hours out of every "a at least and more if
you can get it, moderate regular exercise,
and fattening foods such as soups, butter,
cream, farlnaceous foods, lat, juicy meats
and plenty of olive oil. Eat often rather
than much at time, take warm baths at
night and don't worry"
Autograph recipe books are trifes shown
at the Women's Exchanges. Two covers of
Bristol board are tinted and painted with
bunch of flowers or some conventional de-
sign of pots and pans, and hold dozen or
more plain leaves between them. The
words Autograph Recipes are done in grace
full text on the first page, with some appro-
pirate verse on food or the art of dining.
A pencil is attached bv q ribbon, though
the recipes are preferably written in ink.
Provided with such book the chatelaine
coaXes a pet recipe from a score of friends
whose culinary skill is accepted and Sc
cures as well an autograph from each.
Paiamas for ladies are shown this autumn
in silk, wool and linen.
MARGARET H. WEIGH
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18

oAo thS "oA4Sh vi VIC PdtilOtiC OEucTb
Big Reception without Full Dress,
No sooner though than done with Mrs
Logan, the national reception Immediately
assumed the prominent place upon the pro-
gramme, the ladies of the White House and
the Cabinet were invited to assist in receiv-
ing and the affair is to be- very brillian t
Full dress, necessarily will be limited to
the Receiving Committee and to the resi-
dent guests, as the strangers will not at
tempt to provide themselves with evening
attire, and should they attempt it the rail-
road companies will see to it that they do
not have their baggage, on time. 1t is a
literal impossibility to take care of 80 msuy
people all travelling at one time and very
much extra baggage, so say the railroad
officials.
Mrs. Logan will also give reception in
her own beautiful home at Calumet Place,
1t will be semi-private affair at which the
John A. Logan Posts G. A. R. of the United
States, the Grand Army of the Republic
and the Woman's Corps Of Illinois will be
the guests of honor
Such are the prominent social events of
the week, the smaller ones woyld~fill a
book. The different orders of women are
all to receive and be received at numerous
places and are to be entertained in every
possible manner.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18
4 GIRDLE OF SNAKES.
Novel Trophy From Young Man to Hi
Quaker City Sweetheart

Novel Trophy From a Young Man to His
Quaker City Sweetheart
Philadelphia Press.l
While summering at hotel on the Blue
Mountains, near Reading, gallant youth
who resides on South Broad street, this CITY,
bethought him of a clever plan to prove to
his fancee his undying love.
In the six weeks on the mountain he
killed with his own hand 10 huge rattle-
snakes Ths rattles, numbering 213, were
carefully p1ucked from the tails of the
venomous reptiles and all the snakes were
bravely skinned. The skins were taken to
furrier in Reading and a section of each
was cut out and pieced into brilliant
girdle. The edges of the girdle, top and
bottom, were trimmed with the rattles after
the fashion of jet beads. This astonishing
trophy was then presented by the gallant
youth to his sweetheart downtown.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-09-18
SOME CUTE THINGS FOR THE WEE
ONES At ATTAINhBLE BY ALL PRICES

Infants fine White Cashmere, Rich Surah
and China Silk stylish Bedford Cord and
handsome Crepe de Chene Hoods, plain,
corded and handsomely embroidered go.
............Now from 49c onAup to 81 90.
Children's pretty Colored Bedford Cord,
rich Silk, handsome Velvet and elegant
Plush Hoods, plain, fur-trimmed and en-
broidercd. ...............
Now from 49c away up to s4 SO each.
Infants Chamois and Kid Moccasins.
........... Now for 24c, 49c. 74c and 99c.