New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-12-11


| made gowns OF many Young women composed.
| Like all material connected with "horsey" outfit
II has the merit OF being extremely durable and looy
| exceedingly neat, especially n with rather q
smart waistcoat. As this material formerly
only used for riding breaches grOoms clothes its
| sphere OF usefulness seems greatly extended.
| For mldde-aged lady nothing can be more fitting
and elegant at the time than ruby velvet gown
covered with black silk gipure lace. richly draped.
| wide sash and stomacher Of ruby velvet are worn
over the corsaSe. which Is OF lace. finely gathered
| and In the powdered hair cockade OF ruby velvet
ribbon is set laun,Ily a little on one side similar
dress WAS worn the other day Dy the Comtesse de-
POuralcs at afternoon reception which she cave
10 the Russian Grand Dukes Just before they left
| Paris.
The return Of the cIlnolIne some time in the near
| future seems to be one OF the accepted facts Al.
ready. fashionable dressmaktts siifenIng their
dresses far tie knees. They are also introducing
In street dress the long abandoned facing OF hosehar,
In order to give to the edge OF the skirt the little fare
necessary TO make the ample skirts OF to-day hang grace
| fully. One Of the newest skirts for walking dresses
while 1t follows the general outlines OF the belsirt Is
the exact opposite Of II In the way II is made. In
stead OF dispensing with seams in the case of
| the bell skirt, the modlste many six IN the
new skirt and these trimmed up halfway or nearly
their entire length with the narrow fur borders that
edge the skirt. In order to give this skirt The proper
effect the cores must be OF about equal size all round,
and the fitness at the back is laid In a large hollow
| box-pea
II appears that the long shouderseams 10 be In.
sisted upon by the dressmskers. and rnat women viii
consent to bc made at once stylish and ugly. The
beautiful lines Of the figure again to be distorted
and the hidous sOpng shoulder effect view
For the past fifteen years the dress OF women has more
and more tended In the direction OF truly artistic forms
and compositions, and 1t says little for ule and
brains OF the sex that Its members should be wiling
at the dressmak'rs' mandate, 10 to the ndicu.
Ions styles VI le30-styles which make beautiful
ugly and to the uginess OF one already neg
leced By Dame Nature. In spite OF resistance the
dreSsnaeer Is rapidly pushing the 1880 effects getting
them In bodices by OF the broad revers which
completely cover the full tops OF the sleeves and thus
hide the fact that the SHOULDERS are not cut long,
Undoubtedly Madame's next bodice viii have the long
shouder-senms without disguise.
Seassin seems 10 be In greater favor than ever, and
IL apparently becomes more and more beautiful the
time goes on probably because the manipulation Of the
skins Increasingly grows toward perfection. 1t Is not
Jews TO state that all that be done in ordinary
material In the way Of 1T, style and shape Is equally
we'll done In sslskin Seatskn garments lined either
with plain brown satin or with rich brocades. The
old regime under which sealskn expected
TO last lifetime has passed away, and with 1t the
quilted satin lining which made sylphs look clumsy.
and rolund figures TO resemble feather pillows. In
the same way furlned coats increasing In favor
because they are cut and fitted with such SKILL style
and accuracy that women longer afraid Of being
obliged to sacrifice appearance 10 comfort.
Tile various accessories OF dress are this year so ex.
traoriinary luxurious that Is really spent for
them than for gowns. bonnets hats The prosaical
umbrella has become IA veritable Goblet dart, for
among the most fashionable specimens thereof is
dark purple silk one with rock crystal handle en-.
cr'stei with paris and tlrquoIses. Another UNI
brela which deserves special mention. Is Of navy blue
groS grain with yellow torolseshell handle In the
shape Of snake. beautifully carved and holding in
It's open mouth Il golden apple. Less costly handles
are made OF vioetwOod adorned with ladybirds bees,
wnss or even spdrr'. Of pink coral lapislazulh and
fire enamel. while the perfection OF chic is attained
by dark sapphire blue ribbed silk umbrella. with
save porcelain handle In two bmes. representing a
crooked stick on which Is parchsd ltCe parrot scratch.
Ing It's crested head with IT'S curved claws.
some OF the new Russian velons show rs many as
three or four different colors Thus. black daha golden.
brown and green viii De- combined in one cloth. in
such case the simmer or color most predominant In
the shade. decides the color OF the velvet with which
the dress Is to b- trimmed A dress in a combination
ol dahlia. emerald. black and gOden-b brown was re-
Gently shown. In which the prcdonlnatIng tone was
green. The skirt was plain bellskirf, exceedingly
mi NJ III" back where II was laid In ample box.
pleatS. Ii was Trimmed around the bottom with
ninA tails In the effect OF square tabs The bodice Of
TIE gown which was II, most characteristic feature
'as finished with ltil- jacket which had tiny pocket
laps AT the sides; tis Jacket extended a few inches
below the waist, eXcep; at The middle forms Of the back
which we're cut of short the waist line and finished
NTH band Of emerald green velvet, embroidered In
russian effect with various colors OF the yelours
similar band OF embroidered velvet passed entirely
ound the arn-sizes. quantity curved shield shaped
plastron OF embroidered velvet and belt Of the sams
finished the vest. The huge leg O. mutton sleeves gave
l..
'or.age. and were finished at the wrist by a narrow
urned back cu1.
The fashionable mink-tail trimming that was 40
opuur Mt the beginning Of the Is already prao
caly out VI the market, the supply of this little
nniss tails being entirely exhausted.
The odfashoned single sleeve button seems to have
nirely disappeared and all sleeve. buttons are nov
nhs. For gentlemen these may be masks OF India
old or Of any simpc design; or they may be star sap
hires or ganetS, sunk In the gold In gypsy fashion
The Burmese gold, which has a dull, soft surfacA
ute different In color rom the bright yellow tint
Eriscan gold. Is popular for mounting fine card.
ises. vnugIettci and other fashionable pieces
hnrnlng cardcases nre made OF lzari-skin In duh
rrenlsh tint, mounted with Burmese gold set with
nrs. still another cardcase Of grayish green leather
mounted with yeliowish gold, set with little Knobs
silver The value Of these cardcases consists in
ieir quaint, unique setting. which renders them char
'ierisc. 80 that they cnnnot lie easily copied I'm In.
rior materials
Jewced pins for the hair take on many fancIfui
rms. a most fashionable pin Tor the hair is a
weled dagger. the Hit encrusted with diamonds or
me other precious stones. Sometimes the harpin
surnounied by gorgeous bug with opal wings,
by thoraX and emerald body: or n miniature
valow OF diamonds; or tiny warriors crest; OK
oulspread fan, covered with brilliant jewels.
Thanks due for ladies' fashions TO Miss Frnme
the Pansy Corset Co., TO Messrs Hilton Hughes
Co. ana Atken Son Co., and for children's fash.