The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1892-01-24

"A mixture OF JUhanDlS berger anu H0cn-
helmer-made in 1924 This wine is not
salable. Only now and then q bottle is
given away as an honorary present For
instance, Goethe received bottle every
year on his birthday. The privilege of
drinking from the Apostles, the twelve
other casks stored in the same subterranean
apartments, is granted TO none but Bremen
citizen. In case of sickness a well-to-dO
buTghPT can purchase small bottle Tor
about 81, W bile a poor labOrer might get a
few glasses gTatuitOusly if an eminent
physician has certified the necessity.
The vaults were gayly Illuminated, dis
playing on It's walls the beautiful frescOes-
in color effects almost equal to Makart S
by Ftger, the painter and dTamatiSt. No
smoking was allowed. In q corner were
several dozen Of glasses, pyramid Of slen-
der, long-necked Rhine wine bottles, and
the admission" bottles mounting 10 four
or five hundred
PLAIN-LOOKING,
The Cellarer is plain-loOking, stout and
jOyial fellow Of medium height. His pre-
ci0us rings, golden watch and chain, and the
fine material of his clothes IndOrse the re-
port that he draws an annual salary Of
10000 marks from the municipal govern
ment. His knowledge Of ylnOlOgY IS we'll
nigh astonishing, as he can Immediately
tell the history and analysis Of any beverage
that was ever male.
y
tious manner hp was cheered and presented
with silver bumper on when the victory
of BaCcnuS over GdmDTlUuS was nodded IN
high relief
He began his performance without fur
Their ceremony. Alter seating himself COM
fOrtably in an armchair, he was blind
folded
Several green glasses of Johannis berger
of different dates were handed TO him, and
at the same time the eXpe cited answer with
chalk was written on a black board. lie
raised each glass slowly 10 his lips, nlpDed
at its contents once or twice, made various
peculiar movements with his mouth, aD-
piled his tongue to his palate. etc, and
then smilingly called out the year Of the
vintage his judgment was always correct,
only often tunes he he5itated for several
minutes.
please select some better wine What
do you mean by giving me that kind of
stuff? You know the JOhannisberger of
1916, u. 80 and '33 is intolerable. All,
that's decidedly an Improvement" and he
smacked his lips; '46, il | do not err :;
1886. II, 90 and 90 were the best J johann
nisberg yintages. The remainder of these
Earyests is now worth its weight in gold :;
IS | remember myself 1t was such a
beautiful warm AMI dry summer-abs0-
lutely necessary for a yielding Of good
grapes" Then his judgment Of foreign
wine was tested,
HIN. Clos Won Gelt of '82; it tastes a
little after the caSk; they were naturally
too lazy TO purify il with olive oil. Aud
what is this? ALL Chateau Lafitte, of 10
l bet the wine has lost its natural color,
turned a little black, CHI? Who has brought
il? All, Herr - -, you better drink
the remaining bottles as quick as possible
the wine stone is decOmpOSng."
The cellarer's advice IS much sought
after, and his casual gains in purchasing
wines for outside customers are consid-
cradle.
ONE AFTER ANOTHER.
One bottle after the other was opened.
There were any variety OF IOkays, MalagaS,
Bordeaux, white, Moutrachets, magnificent
Chateau Yquems. Only twice he declined
to judge, saying he knew but little of Cri-
mean and Peruvian wines.
Now and then he rose and rinsed his
mouth with luke-WaTm water in order to
keep his teeth keen and pure. Whenever
he decided on particular difficult case he
was greatly applauded, and once there was
n real pandemOnium. 1t was when, after
long hesitation, lie uttered, more cautiously
than usual, mo use for tasting any longer
1t must be pQuette from Burgundy, firm
PetiOt Chaminy, made for the use of his
employees of q second fermentation of the
crushed grape skins in 1SS2.'
lHe still continued; his tongue seemed in
defatigable. What have we here? An
only three decent wines the AlbanO, Mar
sala and the Lachrym8 Christi. 1t must
be an agreeable occupation to redeem the
world by weeping such sweet tears. Italy
is such a why country they could pay their
public debt with the products Of their vine
yards If they were not so lazy"
At last came the final teSt-seyeral mix
lures of Rhine wines, and also those ex-
tremely difficult problems lie solved salts
factOrily How this is possible is above the
comprehension OF layman, very much
like the blindfOld performances of cham
pion chess-playerS, who play twelve games
a the same time and. nevertheless, win the
majority. For an average judge of wine.
blindfolded, could hardly decide the differ
ence between five or ten year old ST.
Julien.
Complimenting him on his taste after the
performance was over, he answered: 1T
is not only what l taste, but also what
smell. and if 1 am allowed to use my eyes,
my Judgment is, as my friends say, lnfalli-
bic"
AMERICAN WINES
"YOu didn't taste any of our American
wines" remarked Yankee visitor.
THE California red wine is steadily i'm
proving, though it still tastes after the Soil
The Government should employ some eX-
pert onologists like Robinet, or PaSteur.
who wrote that excellent book, 'EtudeS sur
IL vine, ses maladieS,"' etc, or DR.. Neu-
bauer. who introduced the conversion by
salicye acid.
A young society swell mentioned that the
French champagne Of 1890 was excellent
What!' the cellarer calculated, raising
his eyebrows. There is no champagne Of
1890 in the market, as ii takes three years
before genuine champagne Is ready for
use. You probably drank some artificial
champagne prepared in the Maumene or
Nergnette LamOtte style"
ily..ltF NM hgvn 81, II.
was the confused answer, accompanied by a
bashful smile.
THE vineyards of the Champagne have
suffered greatly in late years, many lie bar
rem, while the others hardly produce enough
to satisfy the demands OF Paris"
Then there is but little chance for us 10
get genuine champagne" somebody asked.
VERY little, indeed, but as long as the
artificial wines are made in a scientific way,
clever combination of fluids and sub
stances Identical to those of the genuine and
not detrimental to health, their fabrication
is rather to be praised than condemned.
Nearly all the cheap red wines exported
from France are artificial products PetiOt,
in particular. produces thousands OF gal
Ions OF an inexpensive, savory and durable
claTet every year. The only place where
nothing but genuine wine is sold is the Bre-
mer Rathhauskel!er, and therefore it de-
serves Its worldwide fame"
GENUINE RED WINE,
When he was asked how the genuineness
Of red wine could be tested he laid down the
following rules:
The sediment of genuine red wine Is
always dirty gray Of amore or less reddish
tinge 1t is colOred with elderberrlcs il ii
looks blush, with campeche wood if violet,
with corn pOppies if of a brOwnsh gray,
etc. But these are harmless ingredients,
while the wine becomes injurious as soon
as it contains anline or other poisonous
matter. 10 fnd Outif wine contains aniline,
take piece OF chalk aud pour drop on it,
IL It is red in the beginning aud gradually
turns violet IL is genuine red wine, while
the spot remaining red is sure sign Of
artificial cnlOring."
On this memorable night the company did
not diSpeTse before O'clock in the morn