The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-11-13
LAND OF ETERNAL COLD.
nss pExnY,s sroRY or HER ExPz-
KfEscgs IN THE ARCTIC REGION.
R,xsi Reception In Green isnd-Hunting
kIdsr D1cks-Poiar Besrs-Sorfh
Greenland Esquimnux.


IN June 6. K9I, the North and Yves
Greenland expeditions OF the Philadelphi
Academy os Natural Sciences left NeN
y York. IL was only at this time that tn
general pubic became aware Of the fac
that j intended accompanying my hus
band. and numerous and harsh were tn
: criticisms which appeared in the press
/, However Mr.. Peary had foreseen this
and for that reason my going was KEEP
quiet until should be in place and pc
/. sition where / would not be annoyed u
the least. Strange. is 1t not, that dio
/, not heed the advice Of people who cared
nothing for me- and. moreover, did nol
know what they were talking about. ano
based their views Of the subject on the
p fact that no woman had ever De1ore
ventured into the Arctic regions, prefer
ring rather 70 be guided by one TO whom 1
was everything, who had visited Green
land only five years before. and VINO
based his opinions on actual experien ees
On September %. 1892. our party arrived
safe and we'll in Philadelphia. All Mr.
Peary's plans were carried out TO the let
Tar. and were not in the least affected by
a
from New York TO South or Danish
Greenland was q delightful one TO me.
We sailed direct to Victoria Pier. Cape
Breton, where tho Kite intended TO take
on enough coal for her long trip.
Arriving at the pier on the afternoon or
June 18th. Mr.. Peary and took the ferry
boat for Sydney. which we reached in an
hour, and went TO hotel at once, where
we could enjoy the luxury Of bath. The
next day, until 5 o'clock in the afternoon,
we spent in shopping for a few trihes
which in the hurry ard excitement we
had overlooked In New York. How often
/ have wished I could describe this shop
ping expedition TO some OF the American
ladies who have never shopped except in
a large city Every shopkeeper land there
were quite a number) kept everything,
from a paper Of hairpins TO q barrel Of
kerosene; yet whatever we wanted they
were sure not TO have but felt confident
that We could get It at a shop at the
other end Of the town And so we ira
versed the city (about a mile and half
in length from end TO end, until we were
so tired We could not walk any more.
That night we continued on our way TO
Greenland via the Strait Of Belle Isle
We found, to our surprise. that the straits
y ere still full of ice, and It took us five
Gays % pOunu our way through tDlS
frozen barrier. Eight days later we passed
one of the largest and finest bergs have
ever seen at the entrance to The harbor
Of Godhaven; and here, too, we took on
a native pilot. who proved to be old
Frederick, the captain Of Mr.. Peary's
boat crew In 1885, We spent two and a
half days in this little Danish town, and
shall never forget how kind those good
people were to us IT is true Inspector
was already acquainted with
Mr.. Peary, wing been inspector of North
Greenland IN 1886; but the rest Of us were
total strangers. yet we were treated
royalty. and before left felt that had
known this family always. The natives,
90, especially the women, who had rare
" If ever. seen so many handsome white
men together. were eager to entertain us
n their way. They brought all sorts Of
,urios. and offered to guide us to all the
places on the island of Disco
At night they gave a dance in honor OF
)ur boys, at which the music was furn-
shed by the EsqGfmau. 1t is a curious
act that these dusky bellies waltz as |
gracefully as our drawing room debu- |
antes. and are evidently just as fond Of |
We left Godhaven on the afternoon of |
donday. June 18th. amid the firing OF /
annon and dipping OF flags for Uperna- /
'ik,, the most northerly white settlement !
the world. This we reached early the |
ext morning, but discovered il to be a |
cry difference looking place from Cod
aven. Where we had found thrift and |
comfort at GodhaVen we
ound here decay and apparent poverty. |
he houses were built in the mud and |
he natives had an exceedingly dirty and |
overly stricken aspect. This we learned |
fterward was due entirely TO the in
ividuals. They enjoyed the same priv
'ges as the Godhaven natives and their
chools and churches were the same.
ut they seemed to be a thiftless people
tho would never fiouf sh even under the
lost advantageous circumstances.
l found Governor and Mrs. Boyer very
leasant people; Mrs Boyer especially
on my heart. She spoke English very
ell, and we had quite a long chat. She
aid she was not at all lonely, as she
ad the constant companionship of her
usband, and this was sufficient for her.
While seated at the table the Cover
or rose, glass in hand, and said. "AH
onor to the American woman: for only
} an American woman would we look
IT such a sacrifice-who follows her hus-
and even into the dreary Arctic regions.
ay God bless her and keep her in safety!
RS. Peary, l salute you"
At the word salute" the booming OF the
lnnon in front of his house startled us
'r an instant, and then we understood
IFS was his salute.
We left these pleasant people on the
fterncon of the day OF our arrival. Tues
ny, July LIST, and headed for the Duck
lands, so called because the elder duck
'eeds there in thousands. Here we hoped