New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-10
HOME AND SOCIETY.
CHAT OF The SEASON


GlvFRs-DEI1CoUs soUPs-MANY WAYS
OF COOKING OYSTERS.
Lent IS nearly over. great many people who
have not kept It within the rigid letter of the law
have vet enjoyed the frequent dish OF FISH and VIII
onprecate the whOesomeness Of this systematic change
If diet 1t is well for all of us, whether we be
churchoen or non churchmen, il we make change
IN our get from the heavier meats to the lighter sea
,ood AT This season Of the year. when crude humors
of the blood are likely to be present the result of
The richer diet OF winter. Green salads and
herbs of all kinds wholesome and need
f,l part of the food OF this season, ana
q green salad should now appear on the table at
every dinner The lighter meats which comes into de-
mand al this time like veal and lamb are much more
wholesome than the heavy roasts of beef and mutton
The season of food as laid by the calendar is by
or the most wholesome and the best adapted to human
needs and she who would perfect table must de-
mend on prime of the market and avoid all attra
tions that are out of housekceper must
have very little originality who cannot provide an
attractive and evervarying bill of fare from food
which Is at its prime In season, when she has the
selection of the perfectly supplied markets OF TINS
great city. 1t must be poor weakllng WHO longs
for chicken when chicken is ont of market, and the
very best of spring lamb can be had. or who Graves
and Il is generally nonsensiCal to take into consdera
zion epcb wbms A person Of refined taste in food
Dovs all varieties of food in their season and in per-
lection and is not likely TO be so whimsical In the
matter of diet as one who is in no way judge OF
food.
A correspondent asks fol some hints for formal
a,rpc, As basis we will take dinner for ten
persons Ten will give the hostess and host 'her
proper places and will allow the men and women
to come alternatelyfor that reason 1t Will be seen
that twelve is an inconveDient number, ana eish'
also as well Us sixteen. Happily the day OF iohs
dinners and many courses Is over; in fact 'hey are
now considered bad form. quality and service Oeihs
deemed of much greater Importance than pron'Sion
Fxcept at public dinners where tOasts ana HPeeones
are the order Of the evening an hour Is no" uee"i
quite long enough for the most forhai uhnoi' ''iu
1t is now considered quite the thing 10 Shor'oi ''o
time as much as possible, one very stuart "o''e'S
even boastng that she can dine her people III lor'S
five minutes But there is moderation In ali thines' ;
=, bour nj the table with the half hour allotted to
the men for their postprandiM wines and cigars
brings the entertainment to within an hour ana
balf-quite enough for enjoyment and not enough 10
tire.
For such a dinner. nine or ten courses. Including
oysters and bonbons. would be the correct number.
These should consist of oysters clans; soup Zone
only) one entree, such tmbales. risSoeS, Or the
Ike: fish: roast; two entrees game; salad; ices and
fruit
There should be two knives. three forks snd soup
spoon at each place. Some one has cevery ob-
served that everything nowadays, except o'clock
tea is eaten with fOrK There should be also
water goblet, claret, sHsry, hook and champagne
glasses: and between every two plates a silver or
china salt cellar The linen shOuld be of double
damask Of the finest quality, pure and white and fault
lessy Numbered In the best houses the dinner tabe
Is always dignfed. Large dinner napkins must be
folded simply in a three colnered pyramid. holding a
roll. and the knives, forks and spoons should be
sparkling with cleanliness.
The general decoration Of the table and the ar
rapgement OF flowers candles (which some people like
and Others object to- and small dishes all more
or less matter OF individual taste. AS TO the SER
vice that depends much upon ones establish
ment that II Is difficult to give any Nvcc 1T Is
always safe rule, however, To avoid any pietehce
II YOU have parlOrmad, instead OF butler and foot
man, it IS better TO give two small dinners. neatly
served BY a couple of def maids than big spread
with walters from caterers. AprOpos OF thls an
Engnshman, who has been much dlned In New-forf'
remarked TO his hostess after several entertainments:
"How much the servants over here resemble one
anotherl" sun 1t is often necessary to supplement
ones servants in that your own butler should
Invariably fill the glasses. AS to the wines. that Is
mooted question nowadays. many people considering
ii old IA shoned serve different wines with differ
many cd houses cling 10 the old order OF things
which was as follows: Hook with oysters sherry
with SOUP German wine with entrees and champagne
and claret with roast ending up With MADEIRA anu
port Now nous change tout celia in tie smart
set7 Fortunately for our digestOns. 1t Is hot tne
fashion TO mix any more, and there Is almost
an affectation OF simplicity in the modern dinner
Last but by no means least that cafe hor Is
perfect. A wellknown epcure hath 1t that there
are two key-noes TO dinner L. e., good soup ana goou
Coffee
Now that the tender young vegetables OF spring hre
already in market from the South one NAV enjoy
printanier or d Jullenne soup in PERFECTION lheie
is really very little difference between tho Two. as Dot
are made from variety OF vegetables served I'D inc
broth. Most cooks. however. consider the sp1ne soup
a clear soup, and use a clarified consomme as OASIS
The best rule for the prinanier soup calls Tor t"o
spring carrots one young turnp. two tablepo'nfuls
NJ cooked peas the same amount Of string beans, two
branches OF chervIl Of parsley and about twice
AZ much sorrel 20 y quart OF cOnsomnc Inc carIVh
should be carefully scraped and the turnip peeled
and for printanier both should be cut In slices In
ornamental shapes and simmered In b0iine hal'@i
water for about twenty five minutes, or TIL thoroughly
tender While the vegetables smmer1ng mnce
the sorrel chervll and parsley with sharp knife You
may add four or five bleached leaves OF lettuce 10
the mnce OF herbs II you wish Put the consonme
over the fire heat clarifying 1t with three eggshes
or the white Of egg TO quart OF broth. II IL IS
not already cleared IL should be bright goiueh
brown and clear as crystal II is less uOnole anu
better 10 clarity consOmme II is needed for the
fable merely sraining when 1t is first made and put
away than 10 clarity all at once.
When the soup has boiled aud the impurities III IL
have collected in thick leathery froth on the Top
las they will after five ten minutes boiling, DO not
attempt 10 skim IT, but strain the as 1t is through
napkin. such soup Is clear enough 10 show inc
otto Cft hn I'm
Wash ont the saucepan in which 1t brought TO the
boiling point return the soup to II and let II boil up
again. Add the turnips and carrots at this time to
the soup the cooked peas and the string beans cut in