davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

into sashes. The fashionable sash is about
six inches wide and is tied at the back with
two loops standing directly upward and the
ends falling to the bottom of the skirt.
Among the ribbons for this purpose there is
two-faced satin with heavy corded edges.
Moire ribbons are much in vogue, and some
of these are changeable; one especially sd-
mired is called nacre from its having all the
effect of mother-of-pearl. Another very
agreeable ribbon mingles moire and satin in
lengthwise stripes.
The sure way to make a cheap belt look
mean is to wear it when the form of the
dress shows no use for it. It is thus OBJ
vious that it is placed for an ornament and
the eye is challenged to discover its cheap
ness. A garniture may be placed at the
bottom of smooth waist, to mark its divis-
ion from the skirt, but this is pure orna-
ment, a border, and not properly belt.
Ornamented With Pearls.
Thus in Queen Bess' day string of pearls
of gems bordered the tight pointed waist,
and fell in long ends in front, and this is a
good illustration of the difference required
in intrinsic quality between garniture
merely-a cincture that is an essential part
of the dress. As have pointed out above,
the belts essential use, and, therefore, q
cheap belt rightly worn will produce an
elegance that a rich one wrongly used must
fail to do.
To the amateur who will design her own
belts 1T may be of use to suggest that mate
rial should not be used disgonally, nor, in
general, vertically, but the lines of the
weave should run around for strength in
the effect. In narrow belt this is impor-
tant The Turkish woman wears q charm
ing sash of cross stripes, enlivening the
whole costume, but think it will be found
to be the size of the sash that excuses the
cross lines. 1t is the same with the Japan
ese obi, which is gaily lowered and full of
variations, without any preference in the
pattern to strength, which is sufficiently in
dicated by size. And here should like to
point out that the reversible silks, fashion
able now, with their two sides unlike, can
be charmingly utilized in the sash, as sug
gested by the Japanese obi in our illustra-
ton.
Good effects in metal are linked circles
and other interlacings or chain effects. and q
choice can be had between buckles and
welded clasps. A richer effect is produced
when the clasps are larger than the ribbon,
as is illustrated in ths beautiful belt worn
BY Bernhardt in our illustration. Bern
hardt long ago discovered the beauty and
adopted the belted style of dress. A study
of the belts which this notable woman has
collected and designed would be full Of
profit to the amateur.
ADA BAcHE-CoNE
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
" Nev. yorA .y0So> 4,

buckets, very much in vogue, cost from 50
to IS, and there are limitations at a smaller
price. The double pointed or bodice belt is
still seen. There are also rich belts of
wrought metal, o1idized and gilded, that
are expensive. One shown in the drawing,
which has two beautifully chased plaques
and perforated handkerchief pouch, is $28.
Jet will be much used, and handsome belt
of black silk has three jet slides and a
pointed Jet clasp. When to these is added
q variety of ribbons, it is apparent that the
resources for waist bands are large.
Nothing New Among Belts.
Belts will be made of the dress fabric
when the fabric has sufficient body. New
York stores will take your material and
make it into a belt for 81. They will line
and bind it with leather and add leather
buckle. They will keep in stock such
belts made of Bedford cord and camel's
hair, in black and dark blue. Knowing
that ones order can thus be filled suggests
the practicability of spending some thought
in designing our own belts, in which case
the need of designing materials brings to
the front motive for the study of historical
girdles The amateur, in her researches,
will discover that even in belts there is
nothing new. Ammonia, the sun god
sculptured on the Egyptian tombs 5000
in France in 1889, and that may be seen on
the spring gown made in New York for this
season of 1892
When objects are to be suspended from
the belt more esthetic effect is had by the
nse of double girdle. The Greeks wore
two belts, the zone and the strophion, but
their object was only to produce q double
cascade OF drapery. Barbarian and chival-
rous Europe made use of the dropping lower
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
How 1 Made Money.

While visiting my cousin in Illinois last
month, / learned she had been making
money plating with gold, silver and nickel,
using the lightning platter, which she told
me worked to perfection. After L got home
1 sent IS to II. F. Delno g. Co., Columbus,
Ohio, and obtained one of their plating
machines and have now all the work can
do. MY brother gets the orders and 1 do
the work, and it is surprising how much
work can be had. Everybody has spoons,
knives and forks to plate, and you can plate
quick and nice. One week 1 made $l2 90
and this last week made So and didn't do
much work. As this is my first lucky
streak give my experience, hoping others
may be benefited as much as I have been.
Su CARRIE GRIMES.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
A VERY VERSATILE DISH.
Octave Thanet Tells tho Mysteries OF the
PilaH Of Rice.

Pilan of Rice.
The pilatf is Turkish, Armenian, Hun
garian and other far-away peoples dish, 1t
is dish of amazing versatility, adapts it.
self to almost every circumstance of the
larder. I was taught its mysteries by a
Hungarian. The beauty Of it is that you
can do anything savory with it and not
hurt it; it is as persistent as, original sin.
The only necessities for pilaff are rice
and some scraps Of meat. And it you have
tomatoes you can dispense with the meat.
Here is sample pilaff:
One cup full of chopped meat. 1t may
be any or every kind of meat; one of the
most successful pilaffs of my life-a pilaff
that rescued worthy and hospitable, but
for the moment destitute family, (upon
whom had descended two unexpected
guests) and cook of exceptionable amia-
bility from despair-contained remnants of
bacon, mutton (mere scraps from the bone)
and the leg Of one chicken. To this added
rice and tomatoes One cup of raw rice.
Wash the rice we'll Then fry it in large
spoonful of butter. 1t will grow long and
rather queer looking. When it is a lively
brown, strain out the rice through
sieve, and try small onion, chopped,
in the same butter-reckless people
use fresh butter, ,but the other but
ter, if it has not been too harshly used,
will serve very well. The onions being
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

ance, it is we'll to remember that it is not
in the quality but in the form that the
fashion inheres. Richness will not enhance
use, from whence comes the greatest beauty
Of the belt. The simplest form of girdle is
Of leather, with holes and a buckle. Such
belts are fashionable, in good taste on cheap
or common fabrics, such as cottons and
wool, and cost little. For all finer gowns
there are the ribbons, fashionable and
beautiful and inexpensive. Ribbons will
be used for belts, passed round once,
twice or thrice, and tied in a bow at
one side of the front, and for even
ing and dinner dresses thev will be made
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
Can Live on 2 1-2 Cents q Day.

The constants would suffice to sustain life
without yielding much force to be put into
work. At the present day this so-called
life ration-that is to say, a ration which
would support the life of an adult man or
woman-can be bought in Boston for N
cents day.
To this life ration may be added a work
ration. This work ration may be had either
at a low price for the tougher parts of meat,
or at higher price for the most tender and
popular cuts There is no substantial diff
ference in the nutrition; if properly cooked
either will yield appetizing and nutritious
food. The computation of prices of the
tougher pieces Of meat given in the forego-
ing table was made in the spring, when veal
is cheap. This work ration, disregarding
fractions, can now be purchased in Boston
at cents per day on the basis of this table,
making the total cost of the days ration
1914 cents. A little fruit may be added,
bringing the total cost of subsistence to 81
week. This ration may be varied by sub
stituting milk for part of the meat.
Working on 22 Gents = Day.
1t may not be necessary to attempt to
live at so low price, and if it is expedient
to allow a little more for waste, the con-
stant-that is to say, life ration-may be
purchased, and to these may be added
work ration, consisting of the following ar
t;cles, and making the cost Of food about %
cents a dav.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
oU1x0TEs IN PETTIcoATa
Plenty of Opportunities for Valiant Deeds
in the Social World.

fl0uty oA OPpOHtuhAsACo AoE 'Ahous DOcUS
in the Social World.
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPArcH.t
The modern woman of society has many
opportunities for quixotic deeds. If her
heart is one that stirs with the, immortal
Don's generous impulses, she often finds
herself championing someone who is
socially forlorn, misguided or misunder-
stood.
A warm-hearted little knight in petit
coats, probably in a bell skirt with an extra
long train, and armed with a cardcase and a
cup of tea, she bears herself valiantly in
the fray of an afternoon reception. 1t is
truly heart warming to hear her offer q
generous protest against the harsh Judgment
passed on some absent one whose manners
and motives have been discussed in the
coldly critical, analytical way, which
is too much the fashion; to see her
fguratively holding out helping
hand to some acquaintance whose worst fault
is an ambition to climb the social ladder; to
see her cheerfully agreeable to the neglect
ed woman who does not know how to get
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

belt, the men to hold the sword, and the
women to suspend their aims bags, keys and
mirror. I should like to make the point
clear. The whole purpose of the upper belt
is to confine the garment to the figure.
When this is done the object for which it
fasten bag to it you will press foreign
service upon it, and destroy its harmony
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
HINTS FOR DECORATION.

How the Ugly Space Above the Doors May
Be Beautihed-Homely Material Placed
to Good Advantage-The Prophecies Of
Certain Styles for Certain Purposes.
rwHITTEN FOR THE DIsPATcH.i
I am not going to describe the decorative
wonder and beauties that may be seen above
the doorways in the houses of the Wander
bilts, Astors or of any of our millionaires.
I am simply going to suggest what may be
done BY any woman to embellish her home,
with the expenditure of small sums of
money together with the faculty of recog-
nhing the decorative material she already
possesses.
Whips, horns, skins and guns, are arti-
cles which are pretty sure to be found in
houses where there are men or boys; and
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

arv circumstances 1 should not have asked
her to visit me. But in common charity no
woman should see such cruel uakindEess
and sit calmly bv"'
"And yet," her friend reflected. 'r.ow
many did?'' Aloud she said: .'WciI, NV
dear, the quality of mercy is not strained
and socially speaking It's migltiest in the
mightiest: and becomes the thronad mon
arch'-that's you OF course-'oerrer than
his crown.' ALICE L. CLARK.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
AsTRacHAN HoRRIrIss EEs
why Celia Logan Cannot Sc the se:ut ful
Stuff ySi;he u. SludGe-in~.

why Celia Logan Cannot Sc the se:ut ful
Stuff sTi;he u. S!adtr-ia~.
Do women know whv tits that As.rsoha1,
or Persian lamb as it is o.trnest called
nowadays, costs so much" asks Calia Logan.
1t isn't because in and oeitself it is special
ly beautiful or specially becoming, for it 10
neither tits the cost of life that they are
paving for.
Just as the female is about to give birth
to the kid she is killed and the skin stripped
from the unborn. but often living little one.
This inhuman practice is owing to the fact
that ONLY in this wav can the soft. fine sikh
ness of the fur be preserved. After birth it
becomes harsh and wiry. Two lives have
to be taken to get one small skin, and
this is what makes astrachan so dear. This,
too, is why shndder when L see a woman
wearing an astracllan coat or cape.
Is a fashion worth following that is so
prodigal of life as this? 1t is worse than
the slaughter of seals and birds for fashions
sake, and the slow torture Of the goose
for the pate de .fois gras that makes the
epicure happy. And these are bad enough.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

end skirts also actually plaster each other
with mud quite as effectually as in a trail
ing skirt And dress that seems not to
touch the road on the level, trails steadily
on it when going down the slightest hill,
covering stockings and underclothing with
dust should the weather be dry, when no
one ever thinks it necessary to hold the
dress up.
objections to the Short Dress.
The only rule as to length of skirt which
will avoid these objections and prevent the
heel scraping against it at every step, is to
have it made the length of the wearer's foot
and two inches more from the ground. But
II is useless to endeavcr to get women to
wear really short dresses if they are to be
made on the old lines. There is no posi-
bilitv of their ever keeping to any uniform
length. as a few inches longer would so soon
become the fashion. Also there can be no
cpestion that these sort of skirts are not
Terv decent, as if the wearer stoops forward
or goes up steps, or crosses the legs when
sitting down, she cannot fail to exhibit un-
d-rclothing. And even if, as is proposed
bv those who advocate this form of skirt,
l,nickerbockers to match are worn, the fact
remains that all clothing supposed to be in
risible. when casually exposed to view,
gives the impression Of indecency.
Now the dresses in the ACCOMPANYING
illustration from designs of the National
Dress Society are free from all these difficult
ties. Both the figures are represented in
ordinary morning or walking dress
A Division Not Apparent.
The one wearing the longer jacket wears
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

acquainted, to the tactless unpopular
woman who has hardly friend lett, to the
tiresome woman whom most persons mildly
snub; and to note that she is courteous and
gentle to the woman who is under social
cloud which may yet pass away and leave
her unshadowed.
Such a woman did charming thing at an
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13


~ say they saw nothing
in the present style
of dress to call for alteration. But few
who are in possession of sight and sense
would be able to say this at present. There
can be nothing more palpablv loathsome
than the fashion Of trailing the skirt OF the
dress along the streets, into what the medi-
cal papers call sputa, and other objects
equally disgusting. The women who are
in the habit of doing this then go into
houses and sit bv the fire, when the dried
particles of all these horrors float freely
about the room to be inhaled by everyone;
and though people wipe their boots on
coming Unto house, no woman makes any
attempt at cleansing or disinfecting her
dress
This is not pleasant subject to write or
read about, and hardly mentionable to ears
polite, but if the mentioning it is unpleas-
ant what shall we think of the thousands
who actually do it.
Done With Malice Aforethought
And the length of the dress is no mere ac-
cident, for if lady orders a walking
dress" from her dressmaker, it is now sent
home with good four inches of the skirt
intended TO trail on the ground, thus max
ing it impossible to doubt the intention of
the fashion that the dress while walking
should thus be seen. Some people make
an attempt to hold up these skirts. but this
has the no slight disadvantages of making
the wearers appear to waddle instead of
walk. of exhibiting various forms of under
clothing not apparently intended to be seen
by the public, OF being extremely fatiguing
if kert up for long; and in the event of the
hands being required for any other purpose
the holding of the dress becomes an impossi-
bility
Some few people do not like to have their
skirs actually trailing In the dirt, SO they
instruct their dressmakers to make it 'just
clear the ground The result which
usually follows is that they have it about a
couple of inches off the ground in front,
while at the back it dips at every step and
etfectuaily sweeps into the dirt
Just Clearing The Ground.
They never seem to realize that, owing
to the invariable custom of putting much
fullness at the back of the dress, the weight
of the material soon causes the dress to fall
there to the extent of some two inches,
while the front remains as it was made.
Therefore, if they really want their skirt to
clear the ground they should have il
made two inches shorter at the back than
they wish it actually to appear
This sort of length is undoubtedly the
popular ideal of a snort dress-'.iust clear
ing the ground 1t is also about the
ugliest form of skirt possible. 1t is too
short for the flowing drapery" ideal con-
sidered by those who hold the same relation
to art that false prophets do to religion, as
the only suitable attire for women. And it
is too long for the beauty which is contained
in suitability and harmony. 1t usually ap-
pears TO pull round the ankles in walking,
ami obvious discomfort is inartistic; heels
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
cents a day:

Very few persons could consume this
ration; only those who might be occupied
in very active work 1t is above the
standard ration of German soldier when
on a forced march. EDWARD ATKINSON.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

easily con-
structed from
a few pieces
of bamboo.
Ia Ike tn e
largest piece
for a central
stem and ar
r a n ge tn e
other pieces
to surround
it Three or
sixPieces can
be used. Join
these BY still
smaller pieces
to the center
and fasten a
ring to the
upper part of
the main stem
by which to
suspend it.
Colored cords
and tassels
help mater
ially to orna-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

and unity. But if you add second girdle,
loose and dropping and signifying thus that
its purpose is other than constraining the
gown, and to this attach your bag, there
will be harmony and unity still, as before,
because this second girdle will be else COM
pletely fulfilling its purpose. In this way
elegance and beauty will be served, as they
cannot be by the common compromise.
Form More Important Than Quality.
If one would be supplied at small cost
with belts to make fashionable appear
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

ment it. In cutting the bamboo be sure to
do so below the joints. the tube-like space
then left serves to hold the flowers or
grasses. This holder can be made any size
to suit, as the bamboo can be procured of
various thicknesses.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
A NOVEL FLOWER HOLDER

Pretty Design for the Chandelier, in Which
Bamboo Is Utilized.
A Eovel and effective decoration to hang
from chandelier or in the window can be
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

No OTHER liniment lis like Salvation Oil.
It stands alone - superior articl" Is
cents
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13
FACT

true fruit free from ethers poisonous oils and strong,
rank taste. They are natural fiavors obtained by
new process which gives the most delicate and CRATE
full taste. Insist upon having Dr. Prices. Substitutes
are often recommended because they afford better
profit.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

1t is an established fact that
the only natural havors in the
market are DR.. Prices De-
icious Flavoring Extracts.
Each flavor is made from the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-13

OWEVER the world
may view it dress
will remain a subject
of prime Importance
to every woman. At
one time, some people
when they first heard
of the Rational Dress
Society were apt to
say they saw nothing
in the present style
Catoctin clarion., 1892-05-19
Too Heavy for the Angels.

Some years ago, near Atlanta, in
Georgia, there lived a man who was a
member of the church. lie was a per-
son Of some influence in the neighbor
hood. But he was very fond OF money
and alwas unwilling TO paw his debts.
He had a little granddaughter, about
nine years old, who was living with
him. She was Il bright, intelligent
young Christian. She had heard he:
grandpas love of money, and his un-
willingness to pay his debts, spoken of,
and it greved her very much.
Ore morning. as they we're sitting at
breakfast she said Grandpa, had
dream about you last night.
Did you? Well. tell me what it
Was.'
4 dreamed that you died last night.
l saw the angels come to take you to
heaven. They took you in their arms
and began to go up till they were almost
out of sight. Then they stopped and
flew around awhile, but without going
any higher. Presently thev came down
with you, and laid you on the ground,
when their leader said MY friend,
you are too heavy for us. We can't
carry you up to heaven. It's your
debts that weigh you down. If you
settle with those you owe, we will come
for you again before long.
The old gentleman was very mach
touched by this. lie saw the danger
he was IN, and resolved to struggle
against it. He went to his room, asked
God for strength, went out and paid all
his debts, and after thas was prompt
and punctual in the payment Of what
he owed. Not long after he really
died, and the angels had no trouble in
carrying him to Heaven.
Catoctin clarion., 1892-05-19

The Art TOnSOrial
MIR. AMOS LUCAS,
tof Long Branch
Having arrived at the conclusion that the
columns of the CLARION arc the only means
whereby he can bring his business to the
proper standard gives vent as follows
SHAVING, HAIR CUTTING, SHAM.
POONING AND DYEING
In the latest style OF the art tonsorlal.
SHARP RAZORS AND A CLEAN
SHAVE
Is the motto of this enterprising artist, and
by strict attention to business can't help
but please all. Will he IN his shop at all
times.
Catoctin clarion., 1892-05-19
No. }

months since he courted a woman in
New York, and after getting two hun.
dred dollars out of her on some pre-
tence. came to Saratoga four weeks
since, probably to play the same game.
1t is not the first time.
Miss Simpson looked at the count,
and his look satisfied her that it was all
true. All her beautiful dreams were
over. But luckily she had her money
safe. The count was marched eff, and
she went back to H'gginsvllle, a wiser
and sadder woman, but still a single
one.
Catoctin clarion., 1892-05-19
Bits Of InfOrnlatiO

There are l56,973,S73 watches in
use.
Gold is nearly twice as heavy as sill
yer
There are 81 references to shoes in
the Bible,
An orange tree will bear fruit till $50
years old.
The entire coast line Of the globe Is
about $4,000 miles.
A Philadelphia halter has sized up
the average American head as u.
Thirty thousand Canadians served in
the Union army during the late war.
The average length Of life is consid'
erably longer in England than in
France.
Twenty million acres of the land Of
the United States are held by English.
men.
There are only 10000 Hawaiian Is
landers left. Fifty years ago there
were $4,000.
The Hartford, Conn.,, capitol building
is three inches longer in summer than
in wlnte".
1t is computed that the docks of
Liverpool could hold about 10000 YES
sells of ordinary dimensions.
"Paradise Lost" only contains 5000
words and the Old Testament says all
it has to say with 5,642 words.
Two sides of face are never ahFe.
The eyes and ears are invariably out Of
line and other features dlsslmlar.
A pathological statlstician calculates
that IN the year 1000 there will be
l,7OO 100000 people who speak En-
clish and that the other European Ian.
guages will be spoken by only 500, ,OOo-
600 people.