Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1892-10-23
FASHIONS FOR FALL.
coouEvT,su CHIC AND ARTveTic
sLeevEs IN eFFEcTs
prssaass d Oriental Cslsr'ssA VITA
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sssslossry-- Cessunss FOR cArr'asss.

,c.-~..,o.a.pcs Of ne sscAnond Dispasch.I
INV Yonx, October a. The sleeve OF
ths fs!I and winter costume 10 mstser OF
;mro,,ance ard has become . feature
which demands taEte and Judgment IN us
designing. Many 81 the new ciotn COS.
tonnes show inserted sleeves OF velvet, ana
oross.barred, plaided. and striped veivets
are the preference. This sleeve 70 apt 70
commence from the shoulder with con-
siderable fulnsss, which narrows Rradu-
allv down to the wrist. There 10 another
CORN which consists of long pun from
shoulder 10 elbow, overhanglng q close
sieeye from that point to tho wrist, wnicn
r. usually covered with the passementeile
or other trimming represented on tnc
dress. For evening costumes immense
empire puffs are the whim OF the nou..
These are coquettish, chic, and artistic IN
the,r efect. Sometimes tho pua, which Il
somet,mes of velvet ION the richer and
more formal toilets), but ofteaest OF the
brooade which Is introduced into the
gown. consists of single great loop OF
The material rising from tho shoulder, but
brought down to the circumference OF the
arm suddenly and confined 20 the arm by
q hand of ribbon. But on other costumes
the puff Is double, or rather 1t 10
divided in tho middle by ribbon circiet.
Sleeves on the long Watteau coats nave
pointed cuffs. which are reversed ana
braided or jetted TO match the ornaments.
ton Of the coat. These sleeves are not
the shoulders. II is to be observed OF oil
sleeyes that they have at least very COM
Portable fulness. There is no more OF the
insane construction of the arms. which two
or three seasons ago forbade. woman
putting her hand up 20 her head. In fact,
the sleeves of the season are distinctly
common sense"
PREVAILING DESIGNS.
Among the most recently imported
daInas brocsdes it is to be noted that the
prevailing designs are Cachemire or Per-
s,au. They are in the Oriental colorings.
which are odd but harmonious unions OF
many shades in the same figure. The pat
terms are very nearly like those which we
used to be familiar with IN the days or the
camel's-hsir shawl, and in fact these bro:
cades have got the name OF shawl !"
fabrics. Their general effect Is exceedingly
rich. For evening attire they will be su-
perb, but must be used with o Judgment
which not every dressmaker possesses. or
else the effect will be garnish, tasteless,
aud unsatisfying.
STATIONERY.
Stationery has its vagaries. like every
thing else in which dainty woman takes an
interest. The shape of the envelope. the
color of the paper, the subject OF emboss.
ing devices or other ornamentetion-all
these are matters subject to the mutations
of fashion, and their variations must be
recorded. At present the "Dagmar" en-
velope absolutely rules among very "swsg-
ger" people. 1t is exceedingly narrow and
long, completely reversing the style which
has been for so long time in the ascend
ant-the square wrapper. There is, how
ever, a variety Of the latter still per
missible; 1t is Of an outrageous. size. and
as such will not, perhaps, appeal to women
of quiet and refined TASTE To these-the
women who are so often stigmatized as
conservative, old-fashioned, and Slow
nothing will seem more appropriate than
the Club" paper. which is ivory white,
without device, and in the well-recognized
octave size and form. with envelopes to
match. CORRESPONDENTS who like alwaysa
slight soupcon of scent in the folds of their
will observe that it Is proper to
have an embossed floral emblem wrought
upon paper and envelope representative OF
the perfume used. With heliotrope scent,
Tor instance, q spray of the purple bios
SONS are designed upon the paper.
AN IMPORTATION.
One of the most distinguished carriage
costumes of the season was displayed
among the importations of q Fifth-avenue
house lately. 1t was Of blue uncut velvet.
changing to golden shades. The waist
OF q yoke of ohamois cloth In
the suede tint, below which full front of
rold and blue brocade terminated in a
loose girdle of the velvet. The sleeves
we're OF the latter material. full. and rnlsh-
ing with deep cuffs of the brocade. The
costume was trimmed with gold sequins,
which have again made their appearance
in the capacity of dress ornaments.
The fabric which stands In the position
OF chief prominence just now is Russian
yelonrs; il has hundred different varia-
tons of twill weave, finish. and coloring,
coming in stripes. cross-bars, plaids and
dots. as we'll as with plain twill. which.
however, permits kind OF changednt effect.
which is decidedly charming. One hardly
sees really stylish street costume with
out velours as it's basis.
HAD ITS DAY.
The period of the iewelled garter is no
more. Lake other extravagapces, il has
had Its day. Now the devices in buckles
are plain and not very expensive, but they
are of gold orsilver in more or less artistic
designs, among which the shamrocks and
the feur-de-lis and the Marguerite are ia
vorites. Some garter buckles of enamel
are pleasing. Bows or rosettes of ribbon
are added.
Soft velvet Tam-o' -Shanter crowns dis
tinguish many of the dressy hats for after
noon toilettes.
The Henry ". cloak appears to be the
reignlng mode, both in velvet, for eve
ming wear. and in fur. 1t is graceful. and
has an air of style" that renders it
highly desirable.
Chamleon peau de soies are among the
most fascinating of the evening fabrics
for dancing gowns and reception toilets.
One notices in ell the imported models
that foot ruffie, rope of velvet, slight
fiounce Of lace, or some similar finish is
imperative on ell evening gowns.
There is o novel suiting seen IN some of
the more elaborate carriage and visiting
dresses, which exhibits serge ground with
l.. III ~. 4