The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-01-30

Special Correspondence ofthe IhietIigsRctr.
TASdIgR, Morocco, Jan. l2,-At Ia
vira wo had 10 difficulty in securing
passage in staunch coasting steamer,
plying between Lisbon and Cadiz.
After Il day in the latter once tho en-
porium OF tho world and still tho most
winsomo and DO auiiiul city OF Spain,
we sailed OH n smaller steamer. little
better than ferryboat for the African
Coast, touching Tor an hour ut Iarifa,
tho southcrnmost city OF continental
Europe, but fifteen miles southwest OF
Gibraltar.
In this less than one hundred miles
from Cadis there arc innumcrablo scenes
md memories OF wondrous impressive.
ness. Cadiz itself was tho Tarshish OF
Bible history, Juno's wondrous island,
and the glorious lbcra OF Anacrcon and
Homer. At tho end of tho fourth cen
fury 1t was tho richest, most brilliant,
and most proai3ate city in the world.
Then tho Goths and tho Arabs pos
scssed it, the lutter for 500 years from
the eighth century, when Alfonso the
Learned rotook it in 1862. What WIS.,
ion OF riches and pillaRe comes with
vanishing sight OF the beautiful city,
when its American treasure is remcm-
bered. The old writer's tell that in the
one year OF 1902 the gold and silver
imported ut Cadiz from America
amounted to l25 millions; and away
back OF this, when the English Lord
Essex sacked and pillaged Cadiz, the
booty amounted to forty great galleon1
and thirteen ships OF war laden with
American gold. --..
In an hours time you have como
abreast OF Cape Trafalgar. Your steam-
ers course is through the very waters
where Nelson won his immortal victory
over the combined ilcctsof Gravina and
Nilleneuvc. All the mighty paintings
you have seen, all the majestic monu-
ments to Nelson underneath whose
shadows you have stood, all the thrill
ing prose and verse you have read upon
this inspiring theme, thrill and fill your
mind and heart, until the air is dimmed
with smoke, the h0arse bellowings OF
cannon deafen you, the sheets OF flame
from those two solid columns OF war
ships blind you. the shrieks OF wounded
and dying and tho crashing OF masts add
10 the conjured horror-all for an in
slant, may be; but no poet or painter
has ever brought its glory and saragery
TO your comprehension so matchlcssly
as your own brief presence there.
GLOWING PEN PICTURES.
And now Tariia is reached; Tariia
celebrated OF all cities of the Latin race
Tor the fatal beauty OF its women;
Tarifa where the besicgrs Moors put
to death the son OF Don Alfonso before
his eyes in, an attempt to effect tho
city's surrender; where mighty battles
between the kings OF Castillo and Spain
against the Moors were fought beneath
its walls: where once 1000 Roman
cons came and took to themselves their
pick OF Spanish women; where the
Bcrbers first met the dispirited armies
OF Roderick, last OF the Goths; Tariff
with its scores OF towers and gates,
labarynthine streets, balconies hidden
behind masses OF flowers, and its hall
Spanish, half-Moorish scenes and lie
which taunt and tempt ravishingly to
dallying and delay.
From this point, as your course is set
to the southwest Tor Tangicr, almost
straight across tho strait OF Gibraltar,
the scene or every hand is one oil match
less beauty and grandeur. Back to the
northwest stretches the Spanish coast
line to Trafalgar, low lying along the
sea, but with q background OF undulat-
ing foothills, breaking into deep gorges,
and capped by lofty sierras, the whole
chcckered by vineyards and dotted with
cities and hamlets, in the distance as
white rs flakes OF snow. Back across
$ts, oknr 49, Il, a,-%l, 80
old Gibraltar, line OF fishing villages,
arsenals, quays and moles at its base
like slender ribbon OF foam, its thous-
ands OF threatening cannon above hid
den and submitted by terraces bright
and vines and gardens fair.
Before you is Africa, warm and glow
ing beneath midwinter sun. Away to
the southeast is the shadowy peak OF
Apes Hill, at whose base Ceuta lies
A grand and diversified coast stretches
westward, past as yet invisible Tangier,
to Cape Spartel, the northwcsternmost
point in Africa. Portions OF tho coast
arc grandly precipitous. Again great
forests sweep from noble heights into
slumbrous valleys, which undulate
softly to the sea. The lights and shades
are strange. Tho green OF the middle
strait blends into q rosy pucc towards
land, this into brilliant blue further
on, and the coast line at the waters
edge seems like thread OF lustrous
onyx. Above this, brown; then purple;
then emerald; and beyond, there is q
glowing OF faint orange, MS though the
valleys palpably fun. back the sunlight
which fingered lovingly above. Beyond
this, q limo OF tender purple, Jagged
with feathcry, misty fronds. This is
where the Atlas Mountains are. And
then between the mountain passes and
peaks and the sky is faint thread Of
satirony pale pink, something like
gauzo OF lavender laid on bank OF
roses. That CLEAN OF color flashes the
mental vision TO the vast Sahara and
the lar Soudan.
FcastinS with eager and selfish de.
light upon tho glorious shores OF two
continents, l had lost sight OF honest
Dobrado; Dobrado who was to havo re-
turned TO his place by the babbling
fountains OF Libson, from Beja, should
persist in tramping thence to Tavira
and the sea; Dobrado who was now
sworn servitor and friend; Dobrado
broad OF grin as Gargantua, and OF beam
as QuiXotc's no less faithful squire;
Dobrado whom I found with lowering
eyes and hideous face, rs rapt rs had
been, scowling with unutterablc hate
at the fair land OF tho Moors. In.his
attitude, looks, mutterings and uncon-
scious gesticulations, increasing every
moment in rapidity and intensity, the
whole story OF the irrevocable vengeiu-
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