The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-04-17
TEE WOMAN OF FASHION,
Styles of Outdoor Gsrm ents to be
Worn This Spring.

WOru 4nl5 spring.
(CopUightD
New YORK, April 16.-Ot course the box
coat is the very latest thing and of course
we are all in duty bound to wear it. But,
dear me! who wants to wear q coat that is
made of nothing but straight piece of
cloth laid down the back, and two straight
pisces laid down the front! What shame.
if one has a really good fgure-sender
waist, Is tall and well proportioned-to con-
ceal ali its beauty in that wav, and how
much more shams-in fact, what horror
in the thought-if one has no figure at all,
but is short and stout and broad, to be COM
PEELED to don one of these loose, uugainly
garments! To be sure. they are be
coming to fortunate few, wit
good carriage, English bearing and
tall, well proportioned figures; but must
the millions suffer for the few: Because a
woman here and there looks supremely well
in it, must all the great world of fashiona-
BILE women go parading about in a garment
that precludes all possibility of their appear
ing we'll. No. it is unbearable; we must
have substitute, and for escape we turn
gladly to mantles. Although these ara
loose, also, they are loose in different way.
There Is az least some shape to them. A
variety Of shapes, Indeed, the earnest seeker
after them will find. Let me tell you about
few of their characteristics Most of
them have an over cape of lace which is
fastened in at the neck all around
and falls very full about three-Quarter
way down to the waist. Many of these mar
row where they cross the sleeves, and fall in
long points in the back and front. Many Of
them are almost covered with jet, i'll curl
Gus and original designs-some merely with
plastron back and front, some WITH the
addition OF beading or passementerie around
the edge, from which rise tall, narrow
pyramids, whose apeXes reach little below
the waist line These pyramids run all
around the mantle. Sometimes the Jet
| network starts decorously at either
shoulder and runs down the front
evenly and regularly until it reaches the
waist line; then it becomes whimsical and
gives itself a studded jerk, first On one side.
then on the other. which carries it clear
around to the back. 1t runs down the back
until it reaches the edge, where, perforce,
| it is bound to stop.
Then again many Of the Jet Jokes have
| long Jet frluges hanging heavily from them
| that make delightful little noise when
their wearer comes in close contact with
anyone or anything else and that cause
| dreadful havoc in a crowded car, and that
| come to grief very often on the shght-
est provocation. When these jet orna-
ments also hang from the waist,
as they frequently do, It Is worse yet. Oc-
casioDally one sees a mantle that is really
pretty. This one, Tor instance, l think is
| entitled to that eplthet. 1t is longer than
usual, falling down even to the feet 1t
hangs In loose, big plaits from the neck.
The collar rolls well over, and is made of
heavy guipure lace. 1t has three capes,
which, however, do not run all the way
around. They stop on each side Of the
front, just after they have passed the
sleeve. The top one is about five inches
deep, made Of lace to match the collar. The
second is lace also, very much longer and
fuller. The third is Of long bead trimming.
Another fashionable mantle is of three
quarter length and is heavily covered with
jet. 1t has rather quaint plastron, both
back and front, which is cut up in the mid
die. 80 as to form point on each side of it.
On the hack plastron where it has been cut
up, is big ribbon rosette from which falls
long Watteau bow. The Jet covering is
very elaborate. There are wide panels of
it on each side and two narrow ones both
back and front, and for finish the mantle
has q deep ruttls of black lace.
Although there is such a quantity of Jet
and beadwork on all cloaks, the material
they are made of is generally very light
and thin. The effect is rather incongruous,
but of course that makes very little differ
ence. SO long as we are in the fashion we
are at liberty to wear almost any ridiculous
combination.
Most of the mantles have this objection
that they are scarcely suitable for young
girls. l saw one, however, that had not
this fault. 1t was composed simply of three
deep capes of lace, placed very far apart,
so that the bottom one fell almost to the or
binary three-Quarter length. The top one
was fastened to a small, round yoke Of deli
cate pasSementerie; a long bow OF velvet
ribbon hung down the back.
Long, tiRht-ftting jackets have not alto
gether lost their popularity. These are all
cut open at the back. They are generally
made of light materials, and are trimmed,
like their more stately sisters, the nantes
with jet, except that the jet is Of modest
and unassuming character, and never looks
at all heavy or elaborate. Their collars FREE
ouently run ell the way down to the waist
in front in the shape OF revers.
Even tailor-made jackets are still allowa-
BILE, am happy to be able to state, and are
generally seen with revers that cross in
front. Big smoked pearl or fancy buttons
are used TO fasten the revers. They open
often over fancy waistcoats.
Russian blouses are worn a great deal /
would not recommend them, however, to
one not possessing a good figure. for the
effect in such case would be the reverse Of
becoming. Tney are very pretty belted in
Wlbu GuOSo ndTIOH, IuuCJ SOlu OF silver
belts, fastened with exquistely chased
buckles: or else the loose Jet girdles. Many
of them have broad bands Of passementerie
hanging over each shoulder. which fall
loosely both back and front, TO the bottom
of the blouse. The girdle at the waist con-
fines them sufficiently. Some of them have
long, pointed, turu-down collars, and the
points reach down often half way to the
belt. This, In itself, is q considerable trim
ming.
Now that the warm days are advancing
so quickly the coats that fly open will no
d0uot come more and more into favor A
very pretty and simple vest can be made to
wear with them. Take very long piece of
chiffon, about nine inches wide, aud tie in
the middle of it one OF the big fashionable
neck-bows; then plat up the long hanging
ends into graceful folds to fall beneath the
bow down as far as the waist. The effect is
very soft, and will often make you seem a
good deal cooler than you actually will be
after long walk on one Of these spring
days.
Now that Lent is over, evening styles will
again be an absorbing theme for discussion.
The tendency is more than ever. it would
seem at present, toward the decollete, even
for mildly festive occasions. And, there
fore, the boa still holds it's own. There is no
drapery, scarcely, to throw around one that
can quite equal the soft beauty of the feather
boa, and 80 my lady cherishes II lovingly
nad is glad when she hehrs that it is grow
iag bigger and fuller than ever.
EVA A. SCHUBERT.