New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-06-05
"PAPA BREBANT.r
ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS RESTAURANT
KEEPERS OF PARIS.

Only the other day people were astonished 10
he reminded that Papa Brebant was still living.
Now they are surprised 10 hear Of his death
| Such is the sweet reas0nableness Of humanity
And Of the regret expressed at his departure from
this world considerable share arises from the fact
that the plans for lavishing bencfactons upon
him are thus interrupted forever. All, well why
not? Perhaps he died TO escape being an object
of charity; even of such delicate and exalted
charity as was in contemplation for him.
| 1t speaks worlds for the pace at which Paris
| lives that Brebant should have been forgotten
for many year, until some rediscovered him
| n few weeks ago in the bankruptcy court. For
once there was no better known man in Paris.
| His restaurant ut the Boulevard and Faubonre
MOntmartre the most famous In Paris. The
successor Of Vachette. he has been called; but he
| far surpassed Vachettc. He not in fashion
| able location, they sid. But it became fashion
| able. Perhaps Prince and Princess Metternch
| had as much anybody to do with making it so.
| They went straight past the Maison Doree and
other fashionable resorts to visit Brebant's and
| the world OF fashion followed them, until there
was no restaurant on all the Boulevard that could
| compare with this in crowded and distinguished
patronage
| Most of all, however, it was the resort Of men
| of letters. Emile Girardin used to declare that
III
| could dine in absolute content. The Goncourt
brothers almost lived there. So did Villemessant
| and Adren Hebrord, and Thboust and Victor
Koning, and Victorien Sardou. Some Of Sard0n's
| most famous works were chiefly elaborated there.
The frc-eating Radical aristocrat. Henri Roche
fort, Marquis de Lucay, was another Of the reg
ular habitues Meilhac and Halcvy spent half
their time there. Poor Xavier Aubryet literally
lived there for years credit, and ran 50 heavily
| in debt 10 the compaisant Brebaut that he was
| never able 20 settle this account Brebant prob
ably suffered much in this why He good
| naturcd and hospitable aud seemed never able 10
say 10 any one who asked to be trusted. Had
he been less generous and more business-like, he
might not have been dragged into the bankruptcy
court in the last three months OF his life Per
haps. too he might not have icen recalled TO
public notice and had the foremost men OF France
get mp benefit performance for him. Then on
the whole WINS it not well to h. bankrupted?
Many thousands OF francs were thus owing TO
Brebant. lie never dunned any Of his debtors.
however He was too proud TO do II seemed
| 10 him like begging. He preferred 10 become
insolvent, and even % he arrested for debt "Ah,
well. he would say, II have had good time.
| ! began with the Empire. and have survived it.
What more could one ask? lie survived, too,
| many Of his famous patrons; their lives or their
| emnencc VI. Pnard, for example, who was Min
| lister OF the Interior. He was frequent visitor
| at Brebant's. Not long ago he sought 10 restore
himself 10 public notice by writing his memoirs,
bat in vain. The book remains unread Paul,
the famous tailor Of Imperial days another.
He died a little while ago in ob-curty. Prince
Paul Demdon yet another Well, he il not
quite forgotten; the world is not kind enough to
him 10 allow it. BESIDES, his estimable daughter
has just got married. Prince Paul used 10 visit
Brcbants first in the evening and would stay there
until he got noisy and boisterous as 20 be put
out OF doors. Then he would go rolling along Ia
some les fastidious place and spend the rest Of
the evening: the evening lasting until sunrise.
IL was at the Cafe Anglais that Prince Paul and
Daniel Wilson and their cums were most tumultu-
Gus. They used TO throw money out Of the
windows by the handful, for the fun Of seeing the
street boys scramble for it, When they had
| thrown all their money. they would throw the
viands and even the china and svcrwarc after il.
No wonder they got through with their fortunes.
Brcbants the scene Of many gatherings
that have become historic. There was the Diner
des Spartiatcs, of which W. DE Goncourt speaks in
his memoirs. and his epic account Of which, at the
time Of the siege OF Paris, aroused the unctuous
ire of NJ Rcnon NJ Henri Melhac got up "a
the uniform Of the National Guard, and valiantly
supported the horrors OF the siege sure Of the
mutton-chop which Brcbant reserved for them
The society called " les Piparts" also met there
they were wont to assemble at midnight and sup
till daybreal cracking jokes and inventing hoaxes
on their contemporaries
Well, when Brebant broke down and became n
bankrupt a little while ago, people began to
| member that he was alive NJ. Maynard Of Ie
Figaro took his case in hand, and organized a
relief committee. This committee consisted OF
fifteen members Three Of the Academy
Dumas, Sardou and Mchac. Three were of the
| Institute, famous painters Gerome, Bonnat and
Icfevrc Three were newspaper men IIcbrard, Of
lie Temps" Meyer, of lie Gaulois" and
Maynard, Of lie Figaro" Three were theatrical
managers bertrand Of the Opera, Claretie OF the
Theatre Francais and Koning, Of the Gymnase
And three men Of eminent social rank: the
Prince de Sagan, the Due de Luyncs. and the
Marquis de Irctcuil. These all entered into the
work with much zcst and quickly got Brebant
| out of the bankruptcy court. The next step was
10 get up great benefit performance, which
would put many thousands of francs in his pocket
This was to take place next week. But on Sun
day last Brebant discounted it by dying. He
| was nearly seventy years DID, and his last hours
were happy.
Brebant is not the only landmark of the Empire
that has vanished. The very art of dining has
been rcvolutonized. Time was when great din
ners Of thirty forty or fifty covers were fashion
able. They fashionable no lonGer, except, Of
course on official occasions. The elegant din
ncr in society must have not less than eight
more than fifteen guests and they must all be
friends or acquaintance. There must be at least
twice AZ many gentlemen as ladies. And there
must be in the company just one cecbrity-an
| author or painter singer or actor. The menu
must be prepared in accordance with the rules Of
the gastronomc art the cuisine must be ire
prOachabe and the number Of dishes small The
service must he composed OF japanese porcelain
for the hot dishes old Sevrcs for the cold dishes,
and SAKE for the dessert. Such is the truly chic
iin-de-secc banquet.