davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call., 1892-09-18
WOMEN and HOME.
Fashions and Fads Of the
Present Day.
THE BYZANTINE COUTURE.
A Stylish Afternoon Gown-New Forms for
Sieeves-Frock for Chi.d-N eat
Ornaments

Matrons are beginning to affect the BY
zantine coiffure. says the New York Sun.
Ii is composed, like all fashionable coiffures,
of wavy hair, the wave in this case encir-
cling the head in almost regular lines. The
hair Is then softly twisted in loose coils and
pinned in place with odd pins of Byzantine
patterns. A short fringe Of loose curls is
part of this coiffure. AS for the maidens,
every mothers pretty daughter is now in
training for the classic act and is coaxing
her bang out to the proper length to be
parted in the middle and waved down either
side. 1t is to this change in the style of bangs
that we are indebted for the wearing OF the
bright-colored scarfs in Italian fashion be-
meath the soft crown Of the yachting cap or
The morning call., 1892-09-18

Tam o. Shanter For the tumbled frowse Of
curly or curled Qhere is all the difference in
the world between the two) hair in different
lengths is practically unconquerable in any
other way than this to tie down the willful
tresses with a scarf Of that gay color which
is most becoming to the wearer, leaving the
edge Of the bang to curl softly on the fore
head and tying the scarf just where it will
be most enslaving to the beholder. Over
that is the jaunty cap which she has stolen
from her brother and TO which she has lent
a nameless grace unknown before; and the
summer girl is deliciously piquant, and has
things her own way with the most dis
QtuDtled of mankind
The morning call., 1892-09-18

and broad it falls in diagonal folds from the
shoulder down. Another form of the same
sleeve much employed for serge and chevlot
gowns is skillfully puekered in waves and
folds from shoulder to elbow, and gradually
tapers to the wrist. Another arrangement
sometimes employed in gowns made Of two
materials has plated cap lined with silk
OF different color from the gown and fin
ished with trimmings. In thinner materials
the sleeve is laid in folds and finished at the
top with a plated frill turned down from
the shoulder. This frill, too, is frequently
lined with contrasting color.
The morning call., 1892-09-18

rolled brim and erect eagles Quill for dec
Grafton, Ii may be safely selected for
women with round faces, while the face
with the pure oval contour or the classic
Madonna outline may attempt the low fiat
crowns, severely trimmed with bows of
corded ribbon. Another style evolved es-
pecially for the woman with the broad low
forehead ana eyes set we'll apart has mp
stapding loops of ribbon arranged with
smart precision on the front instead of at
the aide of the hat
The morning call., 1892-09-18
KNOWS ALL ABOUT BUGS.

4 Remarkable Woman Who ExceIs in
Entomology.
New York Commercial Advertiser.
Miss Eleanor A. Ormerod. whose re-
searches and chronological Investigations
have lessened the yearly national loss from
insect ravages in English farm crops, was
from her earliest childhood excessively
The morning call., 1892-09-18

our drawing-rooms. Here is one that an-
swers the purpose without making her feel
too much ''eribbed, cabined or confined"
1t is OF white China silk and it has full
bodice gathered over yoke of white lace,
threaded with baby ribbons, tied down In
front in small bows, and deep cuffs to the
sleeves. trimmed to match the yoke. A sash
of the silk encircles the waist. The skirt Is
finished with two frlls Of lace run with
baby ribbon
The morning call., 1892-09-18
STYLISH SLEEVES.
Nau vorr Sup

New YORK sun.
AS the season wanes we are reminded OF
the changes in modes by the transition stage
of sleeves. Each day sees some slight vari-
alton in these now important features OF
the gown. Buy your sleeves, then match
gown to them; decide on their style. then
arrange the gown to harmonic counsels
the wise modste. The general tendency OF
The morning call., 1892-09-18

through its coarse meshes are run three
rows of narrow. olive-green ribbon. Here
and there across the skirt the ribbon is tied
in bows-three bows, one above the other,
making charming effect.
The plain tight fitting waist Is of the crepe
cloth, with a bodice Of the insertion, trimmed
with the olive ribbons arranged in dainty
bows.
The charm of the costume Is concentrated
in the sleeve. A loose puff of the crepe
cloth falls from the shoulder to just above
the elbow. In the center it is banded TO
the arm by strap of the insertion. through
which the olive ribbon Is run. Below the
elbow to the wrist is long, wrinkled cuff
of the crepe cloth, decorated with five straps
of the insertion, each strap boastng Of Its
pert little bows.
The morning call., 1892-09-18
A BEAUTY AT SIXTY.
The Latest Picture of the New Duohe

of Deyonshire.
New York Mail and Express.
On August 16 Louise Fredericke Au.uste
dowager Duchess of Manchester, became
the Duchess of Devonshire. The Mail and
Express to-day presents the latest portrait
fresh from the pages Of the last issue of the
Pail Mall Budget. When one looks at her
beautiful face he can readily see why two
ducal corOnets have come TO her. The new
Duchess, besides being one OF the most
beautiful women in Europe, and as such she
The morning call., 1892-09-18
AN AFTERNOON GOWN.

New York World.
For the informal afternoon lat home" a
suitable dress is shown in the illustration.
1t is a French gown of pale pink crepe
cloth. trimmed with olive-green ribbons and
coarse point de gene insertion.
Around the bottom of the bell-sbaped
skirt Is deep border of the insertion !;
The morning call., 1892-09-18
A TRANSPARENT COSTUME.
New York Sun,

New York Sun.
A pretty model for the transparent grena-
dine or black barege gowns figured with
color, which are so much seen now, is shown
in dress OF black, brocaded with chrysan-
themums, in their own gorgeous tints of
rose and crimson. The lining is, OF course,
of rose color; the decoration lace founce
The morning call., 1892-09-18
AN ORNAMENTAL DUsTER.

AS rule. the ornamental duster is the
duster OF no use. The following ilustra-
ton is the exception to the rule. 1t is
homemade affair and one that Is especially
adapted to cleaning corners. A woman
made 1t and she made it of old samples.
Her shopping was usually done by mail.
The morning call., 1892-09-18
SILK CULTURE In GEORGIA.
The Old Saizburgers still Working at
the Nearly Forgotten Industry.
Harner'a Maoaztna

Harper's Magazine.
The most distinctive industry OF the SaIz-
burgers was the culture of the slkworm
and the weaving of silk. Even as far north
as Virginia much care was bestowed on silk
General Oglethorpe shared in this general
enthusiasm, and encouraged the industry
among the cOlonjsts. As far back as 1888
the trustees OF the province induced Nicolas
Amatis OF Piedmont to remove to Georgia.
Besides his family, AmatIs took with him
his servant. Jacques Camuse. for the special
purpose OF rearing silkworms and manufac-
turing silk.
In 1876 the SalZburger pastor, the Rev.
Mr.. Bolzlus, led In introducing the indus
try among his people. In 1742 500 null
berry trees were sent to Ebenezer, and
machine was erected for preparing the silk.
By the year 1850 nearly all the Eoglish had
abandoned the silk industry. But the Salz-
burgers persevered, and in 175l they sent
over to England 1000 pounds Of cocoons
and "a pounds of raw silk. which brought
them return of fl10. The trustees OF
the province encouraged the industry by
giving to each female who should learn the
art OF spinning reeling-machne and e. In
money.
All about the old church at the present
Ebenezer there are still mulberry trees, no
doubt tie neglected descendants of the
original planting century aud half ago.
Indeed, the present Salzburgers have not
quite given up the working in silk. |
stopped at the home of venerable compile
where | saw the plain and wcll-worn spin
ming reels used for this purpose. There is,
however. no longer any weaving OF silk IN
all the region. The only article manufac-
lures is fishing lines. These are of the fin
est and strongest quality. aud are in great
demand in Savannah. Some of the silk
goods manufa tured by Oglethorpe's colon
lists commanded a high price in the markets
of the Old World. The Queen OF England
on one occasion surprised her guests by
wearing dress made entirely OF the silk
woven by the Georgia weavers.
The morning call., 1892-09-18

is interesting to every man worthy Of that
name, is especially interesting to Ameri-
cans.
Her son, as Lord Vaudeville married a
very beautiful American girl about sixteen
years ago. He was on his deathbed when
his mother married her present bus band.
He died two days later.
By her marriage with the Duke OF Devon
shire the dowager Duchess forfeited her
princely income to her son. This has passed
to her grandson, and bis American mother
will have the handling of it until he attains
nj ty
The morning call., 1892-09-18

fond OF observing PLAN
and animal life. Her
education was conducted
at home under the super
vision of a wise and
clever mother, whose
chief care was that all
studies dert a X IN
should be carefully
learned and thoroughly
mastered. To this judi
cious early training Miss
Ormerod attributes the
W hich has at
tandaA bnr zfrAior nz a
The morning call., 1892-09-18
A Mndern undine.

1t is quite the proper thing for famous
beauties to be DISTINGUISHED by the constant
wearing of certain color. In pursuance
OF this fancy. the beautiful Marchioness OF
The morning call., 1892-09-18

the sleeve, II. indeed. such changeable
affair as it is now may be said to have agen-
eral tendency, is toward certain heaviness
OF effect at the shoulder, partly due to
a massing of materials at the top. partly
from the predominance OF epaulet trimming.
That style most widely popular is phase
Of the mutton-leg style. and Is cut in one
piece from the wrist to the shoulder, but In
stead OF the upper portion standing up full
The morning call., 1892-09-18

Instead of throwing the samples away she
had kept each one until now she owned
varying accumulation. The samples OF
cloth and flannel were taken from the box
and cut in long, narrow strips, sewed to-
gether at the top and then fastened to
whisk-broom holder Over the samples of
cloth and flannel canvas covering was put.
one which slipped on and off. This may be
artstically embroidered and the handle of
the duster tied with a bright bow of ribbon.
The morning call., 1892-09-18

hCAib pAt dfV iiu NV Oucs
Among the things it will
make is a pretty as we'll
as useful photograph
holder. Cover the fan
with any bright shade OF
silk laid in folds. Take
a piece of cardboard. cut
it in q crescent shape,
cover it with quilted
silk, embroider a pretty
design upon it. hem it
neatly to the outer edge
of the fan-and there
you are. The inner
- T. tn rzN-- - 4. - q
The morning call., 1892-09-18
THE PALMLEAF FAN.

The palmlesf fan will from this time on
be used principally for decoration purposes.
The novelties in which it will play promi-
The morning call., 1892-09-18

There are at present in the Gobelin's
manufacture two large state carpets valued
at S5O, COO and S4o, ,000. respectively, at least.
They were made during the empire. one be-
ing ordered by the Italian Government and
the other being intended for the Palace of
Fontanebleau,
The morning call., 1892-09-18
FRocK FOR A YOUNG GIRL.
Chicago Herald.

Chicago Herald.
For the young girl-the little tomboy we
have known all summer-it Is hard to fiud
the right frock. We want something that
will transform the jolly little holden into
dainty damsel who is not out of place in
The morning call., 1892-09-18
THE FELT HAT COMES IN.

New York sun.
The faithful little felt hat which will not
forsake its wearer, no matter how rudely
or fiercely old BOreas blows. is shown now
in such a variety of forms and may be
adapted to so many different faces that IL
promises to be to the fall costume what the
UBIQUITOUS sailor is to the summer dress. In
the pointed Alpine shapes with closely
The morning call., 1892-09-18

at the bottom. put on beneath band OF
black velvet ribbon, which festoons the
lace in clusters beneath bows at regular in
tervals. The upper sleeve is velvet, and
broad cape-like collar of rose silk turns
down from guimpe Of lace. The sash is
of rose silk, too. and ties far around on one
side. This touch of black velvet on a bright
costume is decidedly French in origin,
Worth and the other eminent Partisan au-
thorites all agreeing in the use OF the rich
and somber material as decoration for the
lightest and most transparent Of fabrics.
The morning call., 1892-09-18

the photographs may be slipped in. OF
course the inevitable bow of ribbon must
adorn the handle of the fan.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
ROBBED OF $4,000.
The Secretary of Manufacturing
narn1aan.r kInla

The Secretary of Manufacturing
Company Held Up on q Train.
SAN FRANCISCO, June 11.-John ellison,
secretary of the Judon Manufacturing Com.
pany, drew S17.Oo In gold and silver coin
from the Bank of British Columbia this
morning and took the Oakland ferryboat to
cross the bay and pay off 800 employees of
the company at the factory and rolling mills
at Emery vile, a station between Oak
land and Berryville. Leaving the
ferryboat he took train. When the
train stopped at the street station two
mel sprang aboard and fastened to Mr..
Gilson's seat.
There, at the point of revolvers, they
compelled him to give up two sacks cons
tanning the coin. The men then jumped
from the slowly moving train and entered
a buggy which had been hitched at B street
for some time during the morning and
drove away. Mr.. ellison fred five shots
from the platform of the train, and one Of
the men, who had his face blackened, re-
turned the shots, but none of them took ef-
feet. The passengers on the train were
mostly merrymakers on their way to a
picnic and were dumfounded at the scene
rapidly enacted. Word was fastily sent to
Oakland and guards were established on the
ferryboats and on the roads leading into the
country, but nothing has bexn sean OF the
men aG late hour. The mau who had
his face blackened Is described as wearing
blue overalls aud jumper, while the other
wore blue trousers and linen duster. They
are thought to be discharged employees
familiar with Mr.. Gilson's methods
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12

successful, not because Mr.. Blaine was liked.
out because his success would have been
regarded as partial rebuff 20 the Mckinley
policy, which German manufacturers are
still smarting under. All here are in SYM
pathy with the democrats. While the per,
sonal character Of President Harrison and
the ability OF Whitelaw Reid are univer-
sally conceded. little attempt is made to
conceal the hope that they will be beaten at
the polls. The leaders in the newspapers
reflect the general feeling.
The IGgebtdtt says: at ia doubted IL unity
OF The Republican pa rty will again become
faot. From German point of view, we
desire democratic victory. President
harrisons reelection means an increase In
protectionism.
The National Zeitung says that though
the republicans may remain united, the
TICKET Is not strong one. New York,
which lives upon imports. will defeat Pro-
tectionist Harrison.
The IOSSiSche Zeitung says: "The main
result OF the nomination is unification and
strengthening Of the republicans. 1t is a
bad omen for European interests in Amer
lea that Gov. Mckinley fathers President
Harrison's candidacy"
The BorSen Courier says: I'VE are rid
OF Mr.. Blaine and hope that Mr.. Cleveland
WILL rld Us OF President Harrison
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
COL. POLK DEAD.
The Late Alliance Leader a Relativ,
of President Polk.

The Late Alliance Leader a Relative
of President Polk.
WASHINGTON, June 11.-Col L. L. Polk.
president Of the farmers alliance, died at
the Garfield hospital at ILLS o'clock this
morning.
Col. Polk was a relative OF President
Folk. He was a native of North Carolina
where he was born about fifty-five wears
ago. His education was received in the
common scho Dis. During the war he served
for time in the confederate army and
resigned to go to the legislature, TO which
body he had been elected. Later, he filed
for several years the Office of commissioner
OF agriculture for North Carolina,
and later still he began the publica-
tlon OF the Progressive Farmer,
which he managed for q long time
At the time of his death he was serving his
third term az president of the body to
which he has given so much of his time and
attention. Col. Folks home was at RAJ
leigh, n. c. He leaves a wife and three
children.
The II o'clock train over the Richmond
and Danville railroad tonight carried the
remains of Col. Polk to Raleigh, N. c., for
lnterment. Funeral services will be held
at Raleigh at 4 o'clock tomorrow afternoon.
The remains were accompanied by a party
of about twenty-five OF Col, Polk's friends,
among whom were Congressman Otis Of
Kansas, Moses of Georgia, Kell of Mime
sofa, McKeighan of Nebraska, StaclIhouse
of South Carolina and Simpson of Kansas,
the latter accompanied by Mrs Simpson.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
MESaED's EPIDEMIC.
No Europeans Attscked--The Belief
OF the Natives.

No Europeans Attscked--The Belief
OF the Natives.
LONDON, June ia dispatch from
Meshed, In Northeast Persia, says that all
the Europeans in that city have escaped
safely from the cholera which is ravaglng
Meshed and the province Of Khorassan.
Among the natives the deaths have reached
$50 daily. The disease is Of most violent
type. Persons seeming perfectly well are
seized with the disease while passing along
the streets, or attending to their usual bus
iness, and in a few hours many of them are
dead. No panic prevails, for the people
look upon the epidemic as a visitation from
God, and with the calm Indifference which
characterize orientals bury their dead with
callousness which would lead a
stranger to conclude that they were
without hearts. The story that the dead
are cremated. and that often those who are
suffering with the disease are thrown while
still alive upon the pyres. is absolutely with,
out a grain Of truth. On sanitary grounds
the burning Of the dead would be the
greatest possible benefit TO the living, but as
q matter Of fact. no attention whatever is
paid in Persia to sanitary laws. Indeed.
such laws are unknown, and the dead are
buried in the usual manner within the pre-
cincts Of the town.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
TALLAHAssER TOPICS.
Appointments by the Governor-Ne'
Corporations.

Appointments by the Governor-New
Corporations.
TALLAHASSEE, FLA, July 1l.-Gov.
Fleming has made the following appoint
ments the past week.
G.. b. Yaron TO be justice Of the peace
for District No. IA, jackson county.
Samuel T. Walker OF Pearl Bayou, TO be
justice Of the peace for District No. Is,
Calhoun county.
NEW CORPORATIONS.
Article of Incorporation have been fled
with the secretary Of state by the following
companies during the past week.
The Florida Abstract and Title security
Company Of Jacksonville, capitol stock
$4,000. The incorporators are: E.
w. Veil, A. W. Cockrell, Jr., d. U. Fletcher.
j. c. Cooper, j. M. Barrs, J. E. Hartridge
and G. w. Stansell.
The Ocala and Blue River Phosphate
Company OF Ocala, with q capital stock OF
80, GOO 900. The incorporators are: r. g.
Wright. James |. Harris, J. g. Reardon, L.
G. Hood, Jr., Philip Lawtry, J. T. Lancass
ter, j. A. Rowell, G. B. Magruder, J. g.
Frazor, George w. Wilson. E. c. Hood, NJ
W. ElliS, W. V. Newsom. Oliver L. Hard
grave, Henry g. Dunn, G.. G. Stevens and
Charles w. White.
Capt. Patrick Houstouu of the Lakeland
Park stock farm has sold his famous PAGER,
Tasso, to prominent physician of Savan-
nah. The promising 2-year-old colt, Gov.
Fleming, has also been sold to a Savannah
partY.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
FLoRlDA's NORMAL SCHOOL.
Commencement Exercises Enliven the
Week at De Funiak.

Commencement Exercises Enliven the
Week at De Funiak.
De FUNIAK SPRINGS, FLA, june IL.
Commencement exercises of the Florida
State Normal School have made this an in
teresting week in De Funiak Springs. On
Tuesday night there was a public debate by
young gentlemen of that institution.
Wednesday night was devoted to essays by
the graduating class, and Thursday night
there was festival under the auspices OF
the alumni association. The professors
have aimed at thoronghness In their in
structions, and an improvement In the con-
duct Of the public schools is confidently
anticipated as the fruit of their labors since
the establishment of this institution for
training teachers. This is, truly, founda-
tion work, and it is to be wished the legisla-
ture, by an enlightened liberality, will en-
large the field of its usefulness.
The De Funiak district OF this (Walton)
county has voted to levy an extra tax to
supplement- the state appropriation, so as to
make the school session eight months long.
This is orediteble. The example is worthy
of imitation.
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
IrALY's MILITARY BUDGET.
It's Discussion Causes Excitement in
the Chamber.

Its Discussion Causes Excitement in
the Chamber.
ROME, June 11.-There was a noisy sit
ting of the Chamber of Deputies to-day
during a speech by Signor Barzilla, mems
ber of the extreme left. Tho president
of the chamber was obliged to suspend the
sitting amid great excitement. On the re.
sumption of the session Signor Forts OF the
extreme left, who is warm supporter Of
ex-Premier Crispi, made an excited speech.
He urged that the military strength of the
country must not be reduced, even IL In
creased taxation was necessary TO accom-
plish this end. Italy, he declared should
strictly adhere 10 the dreibund.
Premier Glolith followed Signor Forts
with a speech, in which he asked the
chamber to vote six months credit.
Marquis di Rudini, late prime minister,
opposed this demand of the government.
When the debate had been concluded the
chamber took a secret ballot and carried a
motion for a six months credit by major
ity Of ~.
The chamber then adopted the whole bill
relative to provisional credit as presented
by the government, the vote standing 256
To II
The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-06-12
LOST HIS LIFD TO SAVE A BOY.
Charles O. Lester of Athens Meets a
Hsro's Death in the Oconee.

Charles O. Lester of Athens Meets a
Hsro's Death in the Oconee.
ATHENS, GA, June 11.-Charles G. Les
ter, prominent young business mau OF
this city, lost his life this afternoon in the
Oconee river near River street, while res
ouing a drowning boy. Tooe Watkins, a
lad about Is years Of age, of rather unbal-
anced mind, was playiaR with some COM
panIons on the river bank near a quicksand.
Watkins spied a fish in the water, and in
his effort to catch it fell into the stream.
He was on the point of drowning when Mr..
Lester came by, took in the situation at a
glance, and in an instant was In the
water with his strong arm around the un-
fortunate little fellow. Watkins was safely
lodged upon the high bank, but when Mr..
Lester fell back in the water and he tried
to recover himself his strength had been
exhausted in saving the boy and ne per-
ished in the quicksand. An alarm was
Immediately given, but before assistance
reached the place Mr.. Testers body had
drifted out into the stream. 1t was after
ward recovered and Coroner Pitner held an
inquest over it, Mr. Lester leaves a wife
and seven little children. He was q man Of
many friends, who always regarded him as
noble and unsslhsh. This is the third eT-
cape youEg Watkins has had from drown-