Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-03-26
WAKEMAN'S TRAVELS,
Coast and Interior Scenes in the
Island of Sword and Cowl.
ST. Observation-Disclosures
A Tiny Maltese Island That Contains No
Towns, but Six Casals.
IMPRESSIVE PREHISTORIC REMAINS

of Valetta, especially in the SUNNY winter
time when day and night seem filled with an
endless round of brilliant scenes and gayety.
But If interest in the splendid old city Of
the Knights should begin to wane, there
would still be found an extraordinary charm
in the easily-made excursions to various
points of interest in Malta and the adjoining
islands, and most pleasing study of the
peasantry under their curious conditions of
environment
From Valesta one can reach the remotest
points in Comino and Coco, even by row OF
sail boats, with donkeys for the interior
lettering, and return to the city within day
light hours; and as to Malta itself-whose
length is no more than IS miles with an eX-
treme breadth of less than 12-I have often
walked from Valetta to Fort st. Lucian on
the southeast coast, to Citta Eecchia, the
ancient capital of the island, to st. Paul's
Bay, and to sunny, silent Dinglion, on the ex-
treme southwestern coast arriving still in
time for Maltese breakfast which, if not a
meal OF dainty perfection, always possesses
the aristocratic quality of interminable
delay.
Most Beautiful Coast Scenery.
The coast scenery of western Malta and
all of Coco, is very beautiful indeed, while
For the Bible student there are the scene of
the shipwreck of St. Paul and several
places made famous by the apostles stay
upon the island For the simply curious
traveller there are the many ruined summer
palaces of the Grand Masters, ancient and
interesting fortalices and palaces of the
Inquisition. The antiquarian will discover
a larger number of prehistoric remains than
upon any other equal area, with catacombs
as fine as those of Syracuse and greater than
those of Rome. Biologists find eItraordi-
narily favorable conditions for researches,
owing to the bare, denuded condition of the
island with its rocky seashores and noble
cliff exposures. And naturalists haunt the
islands in winter for studies of its rich and
winsome tenantry of migratory birds
The most beautiful examples Of coast
scenery are to be found upon Coco. 1t is
so near that a days excursion in little
felucca, manned by two or three picturesque
and necessarily chattering boatmen, will
give one a continuous feast of changetul
scene, and almost a complete survey of all
coast points of interest The shores of
Malta are completely lined with fishermen
or women and children gathering seaweed
for enriching the scant soil of the island,
and every little cove is alive with color and
soundtul with song.
Waters Always Warm to the Touch.
Even in winter the sparkling and phos-
pborescent waters of the Mediterranean are
here bland and warm to the touch, and the
young Maltese disport in the waves during
their arduous labors like bevies of playful
seafowl; while the most dangerous cliffs and
precipices are so crowded with them in
their quest for eggs, the young of the sea-
fowl inhabiting the crannies of the cliffs,
and for the various forms of vegetation
which are stored with miserly care for fuel
and manure, that at some distance, the
blending of colors of costume with the grays |
and greens of the island craigs, often gives
the curious illusion that the seawalls are
afame with gigantic tropical flowers.
Gozo, which is called Gaudisch by the
native Maltese, contains no town, although |
the tiny island, which is but six miles |
broad and eight miles long, is thickly in |
habited 1t has six villages or casals. These, |
with the outlying farms, for it is a very
fertile island and under the highest degree |
of cultivation, are or were in the old times
protected by an ancient though massive fort |
called Rabato. 1t is most picturesouely |
situated at great elevation in the center |
of the island. From its walls, with field
glass, 1 have looked upon the splendid
panorama of Malta with its terraced fields,
its old walled villages, its massive palaces,
and the far white city of Naletta; to the
north viewed Sicily with the glistening cone
OF 4Etna above its dark and slender thread
of horizon line; and seen to the southwest,
like purple dots upon the shimmering Med
iterranean blue, the lonely islets of Linosa
and Lampedusa, half way to the Tunisian
shores of Africa
Charmingly Diversified Scenery.
The topography of Coco is verv beautiful.
1t is charmingly diversified by hill and dale.
Many of its sunny valleys are natural and
artificial gardens of wonderful lu1uriance.
have nowhere seen their equal, save in those
garden wales behind beautiful
Palermo in Sicily. The shores pre-
sent, save at a very few points, perpendicu-
lar sea walls; and on the western and
northwestern coasts they often rise straight
from the waters edge to height of over
;, 900 feet. These abound in caves of great
size and splendor; their sides and brows are
he haunts of myriad sea fowl: their heights
here and there show stunted and lonely
palms, and the air about them with the sky
above are often almost white with millions
of the slowly sailing and exquisitely beau
,iful little Adriatic gulls.
l cannot vouch for the emotions of others |
out as | first tramped over the heights of
Nasciar, descending into the valley bevond. |
NJ. Il
Paul, a sense of awe mingled with glorious
siation came withShe stiffness and beauty of
he spot where the heroic Apostle was ship
wrecked. The bav, which is about two |
niles long and one in breadth, is situated |
IN the northern coast of Malta and is ]
lardiy distant a brisk two hours walk from |
he city of Naletta. Countless excursions
ire made hither by water from Malta's capi-
al, and often the roads are filled with all
manner of vehicles conveying pious or curl
'us pilgrims. / preferred coming in the
arlv morning and alone.
High upon hill seven miles to the SOUTH
rest of Valetta stands Citta Vecchia. the
vailed capital of the island before Grand
Master John de Nalette built the splendid
ity which now crowns Mount Sceberras |
1t the beginning of the Christian era it |
the house of the ''chiet man of
he island' who so "courteously entreated''
he shipwrecked Paul. Its Cathedral of st.
PAUL had its traditional origin during the
hree months residence of the apostle. as
'ublius is said to have given portion of
lis own palace as site for the first church .
nd to have oficiated in it as Malta's first
Bishop.
Departed Grandeur of a CITY.
That was long time ago; but the anti
uated character of the city draws one
indy to these old and loved traditions
cen from distance. its mighty walls,
umbrous structures fiat roofs, vast palaces
nd immense domes, rising like some far |
nd fanciful mountain of dream-buiit cubes.
illars, arches and Gaping domes render it
he most impressive structural perspective
, When Valatta bri1t h. |