Bellows Falls times. [volume] (Bellows Falls, Vt.) 1856-1965, 1892-11-17

In the first place it requires one yard and
half of strong silesia or drilling for waist
lining. This should he cut into the form
shown by the diagram, but the darts should
not be cut until it is fitted To get the
proper dimensions put the material doubled
lengthwise on table and having the dia-
gram before you measure the length of the
waist from he neck to the bottom. Make
dots at these places along the doubled sell
wage. Measure the length from shoulder
to waist and the distance from the straight
line from shoulder to front. keeping the
same distance to bottom; then mark the
darts, which must vary according to the
figure of the person. If very stout they
must he about two inches across at the
waist line, if slender, one to one and half,
and Il reference to the diagram will show
the form. The back and side body pieces
are to be measured from top to waist line
When the lining is cut, allowing at least
three inches margin beyond the seam. it
should he basted and tried on, the seams
being left on the outside The filter should
then take in the seams and pin them
until the whole lining fits perfectly, snug
in all parts. but binding in none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it off and
iron it. SO that the pins will make marks
and show just where the seams should go.
Then the lining should be rebasted, fol-
lowing the line of the pins on the outside
of them, and the pins then pulled out.
Try the lining on again, right side out
When the fit is perfect the lining should
be roned again, the seams being laid apart
this time and after this the basting stitches
should be clipped so that the di rent
pieces will fall apart without being Jailed.
Of at least one inch all around, can now be
laid upon the outside material and pinned
so that it cannot slip and be cut. Care
must be taken that all the figures run one
way if the goods are figured or the nap if
of wool, and that the selvage edge comes
straight with the front of the waist. The
outside should be allowed trife larger
than the lining, as it is often of goods that
will fray.
Basic the lining to the outside with great
care, for much of the beauty and smooth
ness depends upon the basting. The lining
should he held upward so that it may be
Just the least bit looSer than the outside
The basting stitches should follow the out
line of every separate part of the basque
and up both sides of each dart. More de-
ponds upon care in basting than people
usually suppose.
When all the outlines are properly basted
with stitches not more than one fourth of
an inch long turn the front over and haste
as designated by the pins. A very full
bust will require a V shaped plat in front,
as per diagram, in the lining only, and
sometimes for quite stout ladies the fro..t
line will need turning in quite deep at
neck and waist line. but the pinholes will
| show just how much is required.
| The buttons go on the left side and the
buttonholes ON the right, and the lap for
these should be deep enough to have the
buttonholes cut in the doubled place
Leave the under lap fiat and sew a strong
piece of tape along for the buttons.
| When this is done, haste the darts, be-
ginning the seam from the top, tapering
from an imperceptibe point. The darts
should never be very high, the back one
being an inch higher than the front, and
| this about two inches below the under arm
The seams must always he commenced
| from the top and carefully basted before
1 sewing, care being taken to keep from
puckering the seams. Basic the two darts
first, then the side cores, beginning at the
arm size. The two middle backs should
be then basted together, beginning at the
top; then the side pieces which are the
most difficult of all.
If the waist now proves to fit perfectly
the seams can be sewn firmly and neatly,
but always on the outside of the basting,
next the edge, the basted seams are
elastic. and sewing them tightly makes a
couple of inches difference. When they are
sewn lay the seams open and trim the edges
neatly with the scissors and overland OF
bind with lustring, if preferred. At the
waist line two Sits should be cut in the
seams nearly to the seam, and after the
edges are bound or overcast they should be
pressed carefully with a hot iron before the
bone castings are sewn on or the ease belt
and before the bottom is finished off. II
the goods are wooden, they should be slight
IL moistened; if of silk, the iron should moi
be too hot TOT the silk moistened. The
press board should have one thickness Of
hannel and one Of muslin.
OLIVE HARPER