The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-09-11

the superintendent and control of 50
many men and so many things; the daily
Eusst aiter meat OF the best quality; fish
,'; - rom the rsver or the sea, prime pro
Visions and early vegetables. the nick from
thousand items so as to provide bill of
i "nicn VIII satisfy the most capricious,
oiuhted, cioyeG or damaged palate OF the
mrs, coff3r, whether a native or foreign
er, far'sian or cosmopolite, from in the
morning untu a. m. the next day, and
you Win grant that of all cailings that of a
nlst-ciass resta irateur is one of the most
oimcutt and burdensome IN the world.
~ ne taie Kiche IS at the entrance of the
hue de Feiieiler, at the corner of the
boulevard des Itaiiens. The stairway is
IN marble. the walls are in marble, and the
oaiusfrade Is in bronze. The first. and es-
pecialiy the eighth salon upstairs. are
marvels of luxury The furniture is the
Work OF Roux. an artist like ,Boule; the
bronze statuettes and other ornaments are
from the famous house of Barbedienne,
the wainscot panels are in bonze the cur
tains In velvet. the carpets from Aubus-
son, the seats comfortable. the linen is of
royal make and the silver service superb.
AS at the Maison Doree, the lighting is of
the soft and mellow sort that can only be
oDlained from the aristocratic wax candle
Inc Kitchen - clean, white and lumin-
Gus, ana laboratory worthy of the culin-
airy artists before its ranges The floor is
nightly flushed with a food of fresh water,
ana recalls to a scholar the classical kitch-
ems of Scaurus. the old Roman consul,
where never woman is allowed to enter
"a rule which, | arm told, holds good TO
this DAY IN certain ck1is. or chalk caves
~hefe wines are stored, in the depart
fnents OF GironGe. A wine warehouse with
bottles IN orderly array, and larder, the
temperature of which is below freezing
pom separate the kitchen from the cell
lars. where treasures from the most noted
vineyards are kept. The model of
these caves was quite feature at the
London exhibition in 1862. Some of its
curiosities consist in genuine Cote dor
wines, which date back as far as 1911;
there are also Sauterne wines admirably
preserved since 1919; a prodigy called "Ro-
nance" from the vintage of 1912; a Leo
vilie-Barton" bottled in 1913. which is
perhaps the best of the wines have men
toned: and the finest and most numerous
collection of the great Burgundian vintage
OF ISIS, year whose produce has eclipsed
every other before or since. OF foreign
brands there are genuine Stenberg and
Johannesburg wines, some Tokay- Ester
haZy. Madeira of unknown age, and q
Sicilian wine called Marsalla San Donate,
dated 1870.
But it would take a volume to describe
the whole of the best known among merely
the fashionable restaurants. Durand's at
the corner of the Place de la Madeleine
and the Rue Royaie. is first-class house,
mostly patroniZe1 by wealthy families, es-
pecially foreigners; 100000 have been in
vested in the cellars alone, while the
chronological list Of it's wines commences
with Rhenish as far back as 1906, and 1910
with Collioures. Foisin, which is opposite
the Assumption church, at the corner Of
the Rue Saint Honore and the Rue Cam
bon. Is second 10 none in cuisine. The
next in rank should suppose to be Notta,
Cafe Corazza, Gaze de Paris, Cafe de la
Paix, Bonvaiet's Noel. Desiree- Beaurain,
Marguery, Splendide Tavern and Cham
peaux
Restaurant proprietors are an important
class in Paris. One, l remember, was
candidate some years ago in the elections
for the municipal council. Remember his
name, La Pere Lathuile, and when you go
in the neighborhood of the Place Clichy
do not fail to dine or breakfast at the es-
Enlistment which bears that name. His
specially is tripes a Ia mode de Cden, which
are simply exquisite. Across she road are
Bolvin and Wepler and jeanne: you may
choose between all four OF these rival
houses unless You prefer TO try each one.
/ should advise strangers in the gay city
always to dine in the neighborhood where
they happen TO be. You have a
chance in any fashionable eating
house of finding yourself in excel
lent company. To commence with, the
theaters: II you 20 20 the Francois, dine
at the Beuf Ia Mode, in the Rue de
Falois. 1t is unnecessary to name the
favorite dish 1T this house. Near the
Opera Comique which. let US hope, may
be rebuilt some day, is Joseph's new gas
tropomic temule, already alluded to. and
the grand epicurean restaurants of the
boulevards. At the Odeon, there is
wide choice: Magny has an old renown.
bat his unrivalled cellar of wines is COM
nd hata
Ssints-Peres, is frequented by professors,
academicians, doctors and scientists;
Fovot's. near the Luxembourg gallery, is
curious scene on first night,
with its crowd of critics, journalists
and actresses For the Cluny theater
the Qlartre Sergents de la Rochelle, good
cookery and very quiet. The Porte Saint
Martin has the Plat obtain, celebrated
for its cigetds tiesrs, or jngged hare. For
the opera, there are several good resorts:
the Cafe de Ia Paix, where Bonapartists
mostly congregate; Weber's. in the Rue
Royale, famed for It's roast beef and ale;
Lucas Place de Ia Madeleine. cheap;
select company of well-dressed young men
from the government offices, the clubs and
the Bourse, etc.
There are some other houses liked by
those persons who do not wish 10 dine
where everyone else dimes. Barrotte, and
Markets, have all the early deIicacies of
the season. snd the fnaitre d'hotel AZ the
former house can seli a number of anus
ing stories. A dinner az Madrid in the
Bois de Boulogne under an arbor is pleas
ant on a warm evening. Go To bercy one
day, on a Friday, for iAdteioite. fresh water
fish, and exciting peiUs utIS. he house
was formerly the sign OF Las Maroon
nlers but now a restaurant close bv is
in mere favor. One day try Lavenue's,
near tine Mont Parnasse terminus. Ii has
one Of the best cellars IN Paris. and IS al
most unknown. Fropltiate the butler and
he will produces for you Il bottle OF wine
such a. Is scarcely ~ be found q. any
crack restaurant for the price.
There il one famous Paris eating house
which Hish 20 speak about a. especially
delightful TO visit at this bal'ny season of
the wear ailuie TO i.edoyen's a de-
tachsd restaurant stan ling IN the garden
part of the Champ Eiysees, close 70 the
Pa ace of Industry. It's summer refect0ry
is under veranda running oil round the
house and screened from the public gaze
By thlcket of ever gsens. rose bushes and
rhod0deudron-, which ia spring and early
summer are bright wlth bloom and llil the
air with fragrance. Al that time Ghe salon
is omen Artists Of established regulations
and those gho have Just become famous
aud md their pictures have risen
suddenly in the market go 10 Le-
doven's to breakfast and dine. They
fail IN there with the critics who have
the ear OF the public with the great picture
dealers, with the millionaire who wants to
form a gallery, with men ard women Of
fashion taste, political influence aud
wealth and often with members of the are
arts committee OF the Chamber. Jules
Ferry aud Gambetia always breakfssted st