The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-10-23
VAKEMANS VANDERINGS
A CANTERBURY PILGRIMAGE.

LoiteriDgs with the wraithful Company
of Chaucsrs Canterbury TsIes-Tbe
Tabard Inn at southwsrk-stour val
ley and Ancient Canterbury-Ths Ca
thedraI Vast and Glittering. bot Lack
ing in winsomsncss and Repose.
tCopyrieht, 1892. by Edgar L. wakeman.1
CANTERBURY, England, Sept. l2.-Despite
the huge proportions. the beautiful in.
terror and the still existing evidences OF
splendor In treasure and ceremonial In the
olden days Of the cathedral at Canterbury
first established seat Of episcopal power
in England. the present see Of an arch
bishop. primatc OF all England and metro
politan both the cathedral and city
seem TO impress the visitor with an inde'
Enable sense of sadness aad onrest no
where else experienced in the old cathedral
towns Of England.
This is not easily analysed and made
clear TO others II is true, however. that
at Worcester, at Exeter. at Lincoln, az
Wells. at Winchester, at Gloucester, at
Salisbury. at Lichfeld. at Chester. at Ely
and even 10 some extent at the huge and
shadowy old Minister Of York. there Is
something so warm and sunny in the i'm
mediate surroundings, 80 deep an affection
OF townsfolk for the venerable edifices is
Notwithstanding so hushed. reposefnl
and soothing Is felt In the calm of close.
cloister and church itself-that one imper-
ceptibly yields to the gentle spell and IL
touched by the sweet and tender influence.
At Canterbury the entire Interpretation
of locality. history, association and struc-
tural impressiveness is different. The sea
and another land and tongue are too close
TO give the cathedral and town that com
plete and harmonious setting and environ
ment peculiar to nearly all other cathe-
drals of England. Somehow there are too
many splatches Of blood upon Canterbury's
consecrated stones to prevent chill and
shudder as you come close to the place OF
historic and dreadful tragedies, and one OF
the foulest murders OF the Christian era
gave this cathedral It's vastest treasure
and greatest renown. The shrines Of Can
terbury are of kings and prelates only The
heart Is not greatly stirred by these.
When Caesar with his Roman legions
crossed the straits Of Dover and pushed
on to London to subjugate the entire
island save Scotland, Wales and portions OF
Cornwall be found British hamlet at
ford of the river Stour, fifteen miles from
Dover and ffty-six from London. The
Romans utilized this strategic place as
base of supplies and military station, and
gave 1t the name of Durcvernum After
the Romans retired from England and the
Saxon domination began, the present county
of Kent became kingdom. It's chief city
and capital. the former Roman Durover-
nun, was then called Cantwarabyrig and
the name Canterbury OF today is simply
corruption of the city's old Saxon title.
The manner in which Canterbury be-
came the seat Of the Primate OF The Angli-
can Church was IL this wise: Pope Greg
ory the Great, In SOC, conceived the Idea of
Christianizina the inhabitants Of England,
independent Of the splendid missionary
labors Of the followers of 81. Patrick In
Ireland and upon the western coasts 81
Scotland, Wales and Cornwall. Angus
tine, called the apostle Of tho English.
originally monk IN tie convent Of St.
Andrew at Rome, where be was educated
under Pope Gregory, was selected TO Under
take the conversion Of the British.
Conditions were favorable to this mis-
sion. Ethelbert WAS then the fourth King
of Kent. His wife, Bertha, daughter Of
Cherebert, King of France, was Christian
princess, and had stipulated for the free
exercise of her religion in her marriage
contract Her influence upon Ethelbert
was such as to assure Augustine and his
followers Of hospitable reception. Soon
after Augustihe's arrival King Etheibert
not only embraced Christianity. and
caused. by royal command, The conversion
and baptism OF his mobiles and people. but
also granted the city of Canterbury and
It's dependencies to Augustine. who tad
been invested wi.a archiepiscopai dignity
by Pope Gregory. Tbs pope soon after
sent additional missionaries, and empow-
cred Augustine 70 constitute bishop OF
York. but this in such a manner that Au.
gustine of Canterbury and each OF his sue
cessors should remain metropolitan Of all
England.
The ordinary modern pilgrimage TO Can
terbury Is made over the London and
South Eastern Railway, and apleasant one
IL Is But o far pleasauter one Is to saun.
ter over the ancient way taken by the pit
grims in those days when the shrine of ST
Thomas a Beckett was TO the pious Of Eng
land what Mecca is TO the followers OF Ma
homet. This leads from London out
through Southwark, in Surrey, over into
Kent and, for about fly miles, past tbs
lavender fields, the strawberry farms and
the great hop vineyards OF the most fruit
ful portion OF Eng land
Though Southwark is now merely por.
ton OF southern London like ancient Chel'
sea on the west, II las many characteristic
old time bits worth studying; and any ons
familiar With CHANGER will find pleasure
IN idlirg about tie place where stood thu
old Tabard Inn. The original Tabard Inn
was burned IN 1870; bu. another Tabard
Inn, fashioned AFTER the hostelry Of Chaa'
GERS tirae. ard now itsel! cid and pic.
turesqrs enough 70 please any idler among
the moses Of Antiquity, at once tocs 10
place. ana Il now Mecca TO many literary
cilgrims.
In the first Tabard Inn-as al Sudbury
Inn in Longfeliow's "Tales Of Ways.ds
Inn" and 90 doubt Longtellow took
Chaucer's quaint tostelry and groupings
for bis model-were supposed 70 have beea
gathered those who related the "Canter
bury Tales" Charcer's .arcy grouped 4
quaint company here a, tie beginning Of
the spr!rs t!r:e p!lgr!nages, when
tror: every .ch:res ende
or Engelord. &c Canterbury they wenda
The holy 5!istu. mar,ir for 20 seeke
That hem hath hoipeD whaI thai they were
seeke
We al. remember his knight, prioress
yeoman, friar monk, merchant, sergear!