Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-04-10
THE. MEAT OF PARIS.
An Army of Poor Would Suffer if
Horse Flesh Were Not Used.
FIRST USED DURING THE SIEGE.
The Scientists Justify the Custom in
Sound Arguments.
1T MAY COOL THE FRENCHMAN's HEAD

1T MAY COOL THE FRENCHMAN'S HEAD
rcoRREsPoNDENcE OF THE DISPATCH,
PARIS, March 3d. have never failed to
60 out of my way to get even passing
glimpse of fine horse; but it has been the
horse as a splendid example of fire and
grace, of strength and gentleness, that has
interested me. That have gone out of nv
way to study him as an article of diet is all
due to the French chit-chat 1 have been
hearing. For the last month horse meat as
a topic of Partisan conversation has rivaled
the vagaries of the German Emperor, the
Catholic Question, and the Anarchists
threats to blow up Paris with dynamite.
wouldn't dare say how many times ]
have been told that, according to the sta
tistics of 1891. there are 1874 shops in this
city where horse meat is sold, and that in
that year there were dealt out to consumers
q, ,231 horses, 81 mules and 275 asses. /
have had it repeated to me at half the
dinner tables at which have sat that these
figures meant that the Partisan stomach had
made an effort in 1891 to digest 1867 800
kilos 90, 335, ,57S pounds) of horse, ass and
mule.
Originated With the Siege.
This conversation has not all been sta
tistical' 1t has been enlivened by person al
"reminiscences of the Siege of Paris, when of
the best patronized of the street hawkers
was he who cried "cheval' and '.mulet. -
have heard vivid descriptions of groups
of soldiers roasting whole the carcass of
some fine steed which had succumbed to
German bullets or siege privations My
stock of French curiosities has been in
creased by the following novel menu
accurately presented in 1870 at banquet
given BY the members of society advocat-
ing the eating of unusual meats. Here it is,
translated:
Consomme of Horse, with Barley.
RELIEVES.
Dog Liver a la Maitre d. Hotel.
Cat Croquettes Mayonnaise Dressing.
ENTRIES.
Fflet of Dog. Tomato Sauce.
Civet of Cat with Mushrooms.
Dog Outlets with Green Peas.
Ragout of Rats, Robert Sauce.
Dog with Pepper Sauce.
Vegetables.
DESSERT.
Plum Pudding with Rum and
Horse Marrow Sauce.
Among the guests who ate through this
dinner was the famous scientist, de Quatre-
fages. Once or twice have encountered a
live h1ppophagist who has loaded me with
historical facts, contending that the preju-
dice against horse meat is due in the Orient
to the Koran which forbids Mohammedans
to use the meat, and in Europe to the early
Christian priests who forbade it to their
flocks because the Teutons and Celts sacri-
feed it to their gods and ate the flesh at
their religious festivals.
Meat Seasoned With Cannon Powder.
This same propagandist has proved to me
that in Germany, Austria, Holland and
Russia the horse had long been an article of
diet, and he had furnished me most enter
tanning account of the use made
Of this meat in Napoleon's wars espe-
cially of that notable time when after the
battle of Essling, the French troops were
shut I'D on an island in the Danube with
nothing to eat and the horses were ordered
killed and cooked, and in default of salt
we're seasoned with cannon powder.
These advocates tell with emotion the
story of the modern debut of horse meat in
Paris 1t was a work of philanthropy, and
oddly enough a woman was responsible for
il. This woman was a Madam Boitelle, the
wife of Prefect of the Seine. Madam 3.
was devoted friend OF the poor She was
greatly troubled by the fact that the work
ing people could not afford to buy sufficient
meat at the usual prices. She believed
borse flesh to be nutritious. She knew it
could be sold cheaply. In 1866 she per-
suaded her husband to allow shop to be
opened. The 1874 shops which exist today
are a sufficient monument to her good
sense.
Ali this information did less, however, to
make me feel that horse meat was fact
than the brilliant banquet at which the hips
nopbagists celebrated the advance of their
doctrine in February. The menu was char
acteristic. 1t included horse sausage, horse
d. la Geofrey Saint-Hilaire, mule brains,
smoked horse tongue, filet OF horse a la De-
croix. mule ham and horse pates The menu
was not completely equine. The cheese and
drinks were ordinary. Why not follow the
Arabs and add cheese of ass milk. and the
Russians and make drink of mares milk?
is Jewel. A sect which sings
the praise of mule sausage ought not to hes
ita.e at mares cheese.
One or two of the names in the above list
need explanation perhaps. A La Geoffrey
Saint-Hiiaire is in honor of the famous
scientist of that name who was the first to
give authority to eating strange flesh. A
Ia Decroix is in honor of an old man of 20,
a member of the Legion of Honor, who has
given his life to popularize the use of meats
rejected by French palates. He is an hon
est advocate and eats regularly of all that
be breaches.
The Test of Actual Experience.
One does not like to be behind all his
neighbors Iresolved at last to look upon
horse steak in its original shop, to buy and
70 eat. made my first application at
rather swell place. The polite butcher
raised his eyebrows at my inquiries. He
lid not keep cheval. No first class shop
ike his did Did mademoiselle want it for
her dog? Mademoiselle didn't. She wanted
i for herself, but her pride was too much
'or her AID she taltered cowardly oui and
vent out.
The next shop was less stylish, but 1t
lidn't sell horsemeat. However, it gave
he information that there was stall in
Zach market where it could be found, and
hat in certain quarters, and on the out
;kirts especially, there were shops which
we're licensed to keep it; that in all cases
he law required that it be plainly marked.
A number was given me. 1t proved cor
rect. Here I found information as we'll as
steak and sausage.