Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1892-03-31
CHAT ON FAsHIoN.

is not easy. Numbered among the necessi-
ties are the Easter bonnet and the spring
suit, and so the milliner puts tempting
array in the window and the merchant and
the modiste beguile one into purchasing
dainty fabrics that lily comport with for
bidding skies and muddy thoroughfarcs.
The quaint shapes on the counters give
but little idea what the bonnet or hat will
be when it energies from the hands of the
milliner. Some have such peaked and tube
like crowns as to look odd if not ridiculous,
but when the bows, the flowers, the feath-
ers and the pins are on the shape seems to
be entirely changed. In trimming much
use is made of narrow ribbon, in ruches and
rosettes, and ribbon that is not narrow for
strings, these in some instances reaching to
the bottom of the skirt. Shirred chiffon is
much used for trimming hats, and the hat
itself is exceedingly pretty when made of
this gossamer-like material. One Of the
novelties is crownless hat, large flowers
such as peoples, supplying the place.
Chiffon is losing none of its popularity; + t
is used for evening dresses over the same
shade of silk; 1t trims and forms hats, is
used in all ways TO adorn the neck, and,
where it would be least expected, is seen in
parasols The newest are full chiffon
founces inside and out and are properly
called Carmencita, as they resemble dan
GERS skirts.
In spring costumes for the street it seems
question in the length of skirts whether
the English tailors shall dictate. They are
making vigorous fight for the short skirt
with fair show Of winning. The bell
skirt holds its own, and writers speak of
the seamless skirt, very much biased and
too difficult for the home dressmaker. In
lightweight goods hip drapery is fashion
able, and will be welcomed by slender
figures.
This draping is pretty in challies. Shell
drapery is now seen and admired. The
shell-like folds should be lined with con-
trasting folds to heighten the effect. Some
of the backs of skirts show a iabot arrange
ment from the waist line to the bottom of
the skirt.
The cheapness and beauty of cottons
make wash gowns quite desirable, but it is
a mistake to fashion them so that they will
not launder easily. Notifications of the
Russian blouse are favored for these pretty
dresses, which often rival more pretentious
gowns in becominguess and artistic effects.
For others, intended especially for young
ladies, full round waist is preferred. a
very pretty finish for the quaint dimity
gowns and those of fine chambray or zephyr
is inch-wide ribbc1 run in and out of button
holes worked just above the hem on the
skirt and through smaller button holes at
the upper part of the waist, back and front,
giving the effect of a round yoke.
One of the prettiest and simplest ways to
make bingham dress is to have bell
skirt, edged with rufle of lace and to
overlap this and sewed to separate band
a second skirt to reach nearly to the knees,
and 5ordered also with ruche of the lace.
This overskirt should be slightly fulled on
the band all around to represent the lower
part of the long Russian blouse, and worn
over a round, full waist, with a belt.
In richer fabrics Vatican effects are
sought after and the Vatican bow is con-
sidered a necessary adjunct to q ball, re-
ception, dinner or visiting dress-or, in
deed, any distinctiYely house gowns
considered complete. 1t is made of satin
or velvet ribbon from two to four inches in
width, tied, usually, in two-looped bow,
which is placed on the back, just between
the shoulders, and from this hang long,
fiuttering ends, reaching quite to the edge
of the skirt
A pretty trimming for silks and light
weight woolens is rufiies of grosgrain, satin
or velvet ribbon, either gathered or box
plated.
In street costumes, simple "effects sare
the ne plus ultra of style, but the si1nplic-
ity is that which is only achieved by the
use of handsome materials, ans perfection
in fit and workmanship. A Ssimple'' serge
dress must have its silk Innings and a silk
petticoat to weal with itysand the latter its
pinked rufies on the Inside, so there.siis'
much truth, as well asshumor lutte asser-,
ton that SIT is only pecessarg to turn "a
simple wooden gown wrong side out in Or
der to have a very pretty SILK one" 80
AS TO the silk pstticoab it has entirely
superseded the whHe ones 1t must be cut
and fitted as carefully in ffentz and at the
sides as the dress shirt, but for the back a.
full breadth is inserted cut half length, and
two or three breadths according to the
length of the skirt gathered to it. Some
times they are cut exactly like the skirts
with which they are to be worn. Pinked
ruffles covered with lace hounce are used
on those intended for very dressy wear, and
several overlapping lace rufies on the in
side; but for service, the skirt-edge has
narrow binding Of velvet and is trimmed
with any number of gathered, bias rufles,
with a wide bias rufle on the inside For
use with different dresses, they are made of
changeable silk; but for street wear, they
are of the same color as the dress, or black,
and are inconspicuous when the dress skirt
is raised.
A note Of black runs through many of the
fashions for spring. Black garnitures are
used on almost all colors; in silks black
forms background for brilliant or delicate
blossoms or vines; all-black dresses,
trimmed with jet, are considered very
stylish; and when touch of color is neces-
= e.