The record-union., 1892-03-05

Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright. 1921
VALETTA, Malta, February 9, 1892.
The Latin races dwelling to the north
of the Mediterranean, and all those ofori-
entail extraction to the south and east,
look upon the English occupation of the
Island of Malta and the two contiguous
lesser islands of Comino and Coco in
much the same spirit as they regard the
occupation of Gibraltar by the English.
That is in an evil and vengeful spirit.
The fact could have had no clearer illus
tration than in sthe sentiments expressed
by the Captain of the coaster upon which
made my way from Majorca to Malta,
and by the only other passenger besides
myself upon the odd little brigantine
upon which we sailed.
My companion passenger came aboard
at Tunis where we touched to land Major
can wine, making up our part cargo OF
wine for Malta with Tunisian hides and
wheat in curious little brown sacks
which were tied in the middle and slowed
away in the hold criss-cross as you
would lay dumb-belIs each upon the
other.
Our crew comprised six half-naked and
barefooted Maltese sailors with cotton
trousers, crimson scaris certainly thirty
feet long wound about their waists, ugly
sheath-knives in these. and no other
clothing whatever save tiny tassled caps
resting Jauntily upon the crisp and curly
hair of their hard little heads. They
were little, wiry fellows, the best sailors
in the world, IL is said, with swapping,
beady eyes, sharp, short noses, thick
lips, splendid teeth, and altogether as
merry and sunny-natured a lot as you
could ind sailing upon any sea.
The Captain was OF Spanish extraction
and Maltese birth. He had been fisher
man of Valetta; had saved his money;
had got an education at the free English
schools of Malta; and from the vocation
OF port pilot had come TO own the craft
which he commanded. In his little cabin
were many good books, both in Spanish
and English. and his surroundings in his
tiny sea home were as pleasant, and GER
tainly more evident of education, refine
ment and good taste than you will often
lind in cabins OF the most pretentious
American sailing vessels.
His wife, Teresa, and nine children, the
latter grading in size from an infant in
arms to lad of IL as regularly as set
OF ten pins, and nearly as naked, cooked
Tor and waited upon us, lending hand
at light seamen's duties, whenever re-
Quired, with wonderful agility, adding
pleasantly to the picturesqueness of the
everyday life of the tiny vessel, and pro-
viding those blessedest of all sounds at
sea, the voice of woman and the prattle of
children, ceaseiess, tuneful and winsome
as ever make melodic the sunniest home
of city, hamlet or vale.
Not the least picturesque object on
board our brigantine was our other pas
senger, who, with the dried hides, which
he reSembled In viSage, had been taken
on at Tunis. He was Tunisian mer-
chant trading between Tunis and Malta
We all treated him with much conSidera-
ton because his flowing robes and white
burnooSe, which took up good deal of
room, gave this otherwise measly-looking
man a most important appearance, and
unconsciously, | presume, because he
owned the hides and wheat. Then, too,
he was very bland and agreeable, a pc
culiariJy of all Moslems when they are
found one mile away from home.
You will notice this characteristic if you
travel much about the Mediterranean. In
their own homes, streets and shops there
are no moreimperiously grave, impertur-
able and Sodden humans than Turk Arab
and Moor. But let them once turn their
faces towards Christian ports and profit.
and their manner and bearing at once
change. They seem to have suddenly be-
come ready-greased with graciousness for
all trade and social exigencies. Their
with their reputed dignity of character
The bags on their heads and their ample
robes and sandals suggest the harlequin
Neither Yankees nor Jews are q match
for them in the subtle shutfiings and
diplomacies of trade. In fact they are
the oily Gammons" OF the Mediterra-
mean.
In the long, languorous days and glow
png evenings of our lazy sailing thew were
both, the Maltese Captain and the runis-
ian merchant, more to me than weeks of
uesultory meetings of their kind in their
own lands. They were both intelligent,
companionable, and both spoke English
1luently. Their true feelings and opin-
ions came gradually and surely out of the
confidential companiouship sea VOYAGES
universally impel They represented, in
.heredity, education and feeling, the I'M
placable and endless religious and race
war between the people of the Crescent
and the Cross. The forefathers of each
had doubtless been slain defending the
banners of one or the other. They typl-
fed Christian Europe pitted against Infi-
del Africa and Asia.
But all race and religious hatred was
blent in common hatred of the English
masters of Malta.
To reach the sentimental reason of this
i constantly espoused the English cause.
To the Maltese Captain l pointed out his
own successful career, and reminded him
0elicately that he would have remained
an ignorant and impoverished fisherman
but for this very English rule which he
resented.
Isl, ST, senor,n he would sadly reply:
but l would not have had the devil OF
greed set to work in my heart. / am now
more hungry for great ship than / was
at first for little felucca."
But has not the condition of your l5O.-
600 fellow countrymen of the islands been
vastly improved?"
My fellow countrvmen grieye over
the passing away of the old things they
loved. a little higher wall to ones patch
of ground, another room or two added TO
ones home, a little more finery in ones
ears or on ones back, or little more
coin clinking between the fingers, do not
make peasant folk better or happier.
They cannot become like their masters.
They learn only TO envy them and to be
ashamed of themselves and each other. |
would give my brigantine and all but
but Teresa and the ninas (childrenl," the
Captain would conclude with an indie
scribably pathetic and loving gesture OF
protective fondness, which included ali
the romping curly-heads on shipboard.
Ito live in hut by the shore and see the
red-coats no more foreverr'
The grief of my Tunisian fellow passen-
ger was OF a different sort, though 1t was
none the less real and poignant: but it
was mltigated also by the fanatical belief
that some time the Mussulman faith and
folk will prevail and rule all lands.
christian plllage and deSpOllation ~
be would feelingly say, have been the
real motive of every so-called holy cru
Sade and expedition against us whom
you call infidels, but who alone worship
the one true God. Tine English have
profited greatest under cover of pious
pretense."