davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17
sslp manisd.
~,~~~-~oo~~-oo->'-'-->'.>'--~~o~',-
Males.

". S-~oc,,pTTEyT SALESMAN for type
Co.dftLii .alsry and commission. +. w.
~ Wi!tci o. y OadwaY.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

! SECOND MANLY q thoroughly expert
- encod man in private family; assist
butler. do waiting and willing to be gener.
ally useful; best city and country refer
| encc, also European testimonials: city or
county. Address or call ANXIOUS, care
| K0rke 1872 ith-aVc.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

w AITRESS.-Fuly competent; neat In
w appearance; takes excellent care OF sill
ences city or country. With Mr.. TYLER,
MA 9Th upStllfs.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17
tuork tuauten.
Females.

A COMPETENT lsdI desires position a.
"A bn clerk and assist with Otice WORK
Address A. \. r., care Oneida Community,
30 Nur,ay-<t
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

y OMPANION OR SECRETARY By
y an educated young lady Of good family |;
a n,Sasant reader and accustomed to good
society: knows something 81 housekeeping
ana the care Of inyal.ds and children also
ulde-tand. shorthand and typewrtlng ;
references exchanged. Address a. H., Box
II t. hume Once
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17
domestic 5ituations tuanteo

COACHMAN. - by respectable young
T. ScOtchman married no children ,
medium size, neat appearance; best .. I, T.
cienc"- last employee can be seen. Can
or addre-, J. L., $50 West 7Oth-st., pl
,a,n -tables
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

- OACHMAN-COOK. by competent
~ couple test references; ANXIOUS Tor en-
gagement man careful diver wife, thor
ou4h hOuseNctp.r; both willing to IT, use
nl. Address CAKLOAN, care I;orke, 332
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

and PLAIN SEWtJi'
" Best city reference. Address \. ,"
rare OF james McKCnna, go Spring.st.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-04-17

- HAMRERMAiD OF PARLOltMAID.-
" And assist in other duties, by fFst-
class private family servant has uneNSep-
t.onable references. Please call 14J Oth-
ave. near 4.d-st.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
z E%I u

man hair. too. l went out into the fog
and wondered no more at the fraiity of
my sex when | thought of the many old
and fascinating scalps that had been pre-
scented at court this year.
individuality in hair dressing among
professional women. especially actresses,
has become great fad. The divine
Sara still clings to her frowzy, reckless
style. and she has even added to its oddity
this season by crimping a piece about as
3ong and as wide as your hand just back
Of the bang. which, when taken out of its
fiat halrpiH, stands up erect in front like a
wavy feather. No one but Bernhardt
would dare venture such an unbecoming
style. She is very safe to keep it as her
own.
Julia Nelson, the beautiful imperson-
ator of tine Dancing Girl" at the Hay
market, introduced the "Evangelinei; part
and wave of classic circles.
Mrs. Langtry is doing her hair most I'M
becomingly. A thick, crimtsy bang falls
over her forehead. while huge, old-fash-
Toned waterfall reaches almost midway
down her back. This she evidently fears
will tumble down or of, for she is con-
stantiy arranging it, much to the discom-
fort of her audience.
1t was my pleasure to sit next Mrs.
Potter at the theater very short time
since and lind she has again started a
crude fashion of hairdressing. which her
beautiful face can well stand. TIL
'front.' hair is divided on either side al
mos half way back, would and as anv
woman would twist il around ard
stick long tortoise-shell pin in before re-
ranging the back hair, so does she. But
she lva,es the front in this crude state.
while the back is arranged in a large care
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
DRESSING THE HAIR.
a London Court Artisan Chats
About His Patrons.
GREEK COUTURE MosTPopULAR
liz Aaogtry's Becoming Bang-Mrs.
Ystter's Crude Fashion-ssrah Bern
hsrds Frowsy and Reckless.

Mr.. Walter Trueffit's hair establishment
= In the fashionable quarter of Bond
Street. and by virtue of his situation and
fenown, pTincesses, duchesses and lesser
women Of English nobility bow down to
his Taste and submit to his dictation.
He can thus afford to be frank and dis
cnss with me the fearful and wonderful
process Of fashionable couture. ''Some
poet said. )" he remarked, shat woman's
greatest glory IL her hair. 1t isn't so. A
Momau,s most uncertain beauty and her
most dsceitful charm is her hair.
Why you would scarcely recognize some
OF these court ladies whom you see at
functions il you saw them as do with
locks au natureI.
woman's whole manner and appear
ance r at stake when she places herself in
my hands. can make her or can mar
her." said this tyrant of the court.
But Mr.. Trueffit is q clever artisan and
be has had twenty years experience to
back his statements, SO l listened while he
reviewed the subject from his trade stand
point.
How long does it take you to dress
head Of hair?'' .'Oh, it takes the average
hair surgeon an hour and half, but
once operated on five cases between the
hours VI 10 and 1. 1t was great rush,
tell you, to get the women ready for the
drawing room at Buckingham. That per-
formance beat any other record in my
line Of business" ! asked him why he
didn't write book on his varied exper-
fences, and he replied that he couldn't az
ford to ruin his trade by destroying
charm in women that most men believe to
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

be natural. Better fool 'em as long "a
you can," he said very sensibly, and |
agreed with him. He was something of
= historian, this hairdresser, for he told
me that the Greek warriors were the first
70 discover that wnman's hair was her
FIRST assailable feature, and he referred to
stone frieze from the Temple of Apollo
exhibited among the antiquities of Athe-
MAN sculpture in the British Museum and
representing battle scene between the
Greeks and the Amazons i'm which Athcn-
ian heroes drag Amazons 10 earth by twist
ing their long hair about their muscular
arms.
II was this knowledge which produced
the Grecian style of headgear. for then, As
now, 1t was q species of couture built in
curling parapets. spiked TO the topmost
curl with various descriptive weapons in
the form of Greek ornaments that no man
could seize with impunity. Fashion,
which in many ways is leading society
back into the pretty galleries of past
styles, has taken q stride from the present
century into the age of early Athens. and
IN London. as in Paris. the prevailing
drectan. said my instructor.
What Is the style of hairdressing
used by the court DANES in England2" /
asked.
'The Grecian couture, of course, is the
most popular" he replied, although il is
not becoming 20 all faces. The best rea-
son can assume fo- the prevalence of
this style Is the act that II shows the
shape Of the head and poise of the neck
better than any other fashion. With
some ladies' have found il necessary 10
dress the hair higher or lower in angles
according To the outline Of the face
and the curve OF the nee Eng
lish women OF the aristocraey generally
have liberal supply OF their own hair and
do not require the addition of false twists
TO any great extent. I have rarely been
called upon To use any false hair in the
coils at the back. bur more often find il
necessary to attach fringe OF curls to the
natural growth Ia front over the forehead
Ii - the custom among all titled women
when going 30 a grand ball TO employ a
hairdresser. His skill and taste sometimes
contriye complicated style that has no
artistic precedent OF any kind. The Prin-
cess of Wales, for instance, never wears
her hair IN the 0reclan fashion, because il
Is not becoming To her. Therefore she has
style of her own which very few faces
Can carry successfully"
"What is the rule for wearing the hair
at court entertainments?
cit IS generally founded upon the pre-
vaillng fashion OF the times. allowances
being made for the hairciresser's judgment
upon certain complications which are suit
able 10 the face and head of the wearer
For young ladies' the Grecian style is most
becoming. On court occasions 4 delicate
tuile veil Is fastened with a diamond star,
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02


when have to put on my idea in silk and
wool don't like it, but since / don't want
to grow old, can't afford to shiver Now,
am going to tell you that you must be
healthfully dressed in winter before you
can be comfortable and pretty"
DR.. Emily has given the subject of under
wear her attention from standpoint quite
distant from those occupied by our fair ac-
tresses and iitterateurs. She has gone into
it scientifically rather than artisticaliy,
end her conversation with rne was fam
nelly instead of fiimsy. My first ques-
ton was about healthful underwear. 81
think it should be of flannel in winter" she
said, without hesitation. land it must be
both Light and warm, and of excellent quail
ity of wool. 1t should carefully cover the
body with an even warmth from neck to
ankles. "'But what shall a woman do when
her gown must b, decoIlete?" We'll. it's
imprudent at best; but if she will be fool
ish enough to change her underwear she
must take extra precaution az ainst cold"
"What garment now on the market do
you consider the bess?' "Dr Jaeser's
sanitary garment. 1t is light. warm and
complete. There is another good idea in
the union garment worn over black silk
tights That is what l wear, without any
sAft dt al, YOU uuueTstaHu GU cant
guess how comfortable it is" Comfort
able: maybe. but certainly neither pretty
nor becoming. judge?"
Il can't see what particular difference
that makes. l think it is more important
to have a we'll distributed warmth over
your body than to have it all around your
waist and hips, with arms and shoulders
barred becomingly. There certainly ought
TO be revolution in dress and winter un-
derwear. How many women dress as
warmly as do? And vet wear only two
garments and neither of these is a shirt"
Such radical common sense quite took
my breath away. Apropos, have YOU
noticed that woman invariably attributes
any such failure to some cause impalpa-
bic?
Mrs. Stevens is described as dressing
with perfect taste and an adaptibility to
the most ultra fashion and the most bitter
east wind. 1t is the tendency to wear
lighter, thinner and more compact UNDER
wear each winter. and Mrs. Stevens. with
other leaders of fashion. is, it is needless
to say, wearing light. thin and compact
undergarments. Yet so beautifully woven
and so fine in texture are they that the
wearers are quite as warm as they could
be IN fuzzy, camphor permeated wooden
things which careful danes used to I'M
pack at the first cool breath of winter.
Mrs. Stevens dresses with q light
smooth. yielding warmth, produced by
three, or at most, four endorsements.
First. the union suit, which. by the
way, Is wonderfully popular and with
more reasons for it than many crazes can
boast Then come the silk tights, OF Quail
ity so fine and elinging that the entire
form is fitted without q disturbing fold.
OF course the pettieoats are OF silk-one
short, the other long.
Mrs. Stevens does not wear wash silk
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

tilias and iappettes fastened TO the hair and
falling over the shoulders. We have one
set charge for dressing lady's hair which
Is never varied"
How much is THAR"
Half guinea ts252). Every court
hairdresser carries case OF tools IKE
surgeon, and he travels from one mansion
TO another in a carriage like doctor.
Where do the styles for court coinures
originator
That would be hard to say. OF course
We are always watching the fashion jour
nails and studying the fashion plates: and
We get great many ideas from the Paris
papers. Very few American ladies apply
for hairdressers, was told. but when
they do it is always in preparation for
presentation at court.
There is special superiority in the Gre
clan style Of halrdressing. and that IS 1t
can be bought in separate pieces or COM
plete, so that with the very slightest nat
urai foundation one can erect as graceful
and artistic a couture Is fancy may die
tate. And the whole wig Is made OF hu-
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
SILKS AND FLANNELS.
Fashion Leaders Talk About
Their Dainty Underwear.
THE UNION SUIT POPULAR.


NEW YoRK, Oct o6-fSpeciai Core
spondence I-Paris is no longer the home
of the daintiest, most injurious and the
most perfectly developed worshiper of
fashion. She has come to New York and
taken up her abode in our midst, whence
her edict will go forth to the uttermost
parts of the land.
Il is for her, rather than for all the
we shall SILVER in silks or shudder
in hannels, and I have prepared q
Symposium" of her views tthe poll
ticians would call it "taking a straw
You may Judge for yourself whose FASH on
augurate your own particular fad. At
any rate don't fail to note the nice dis
ordinations here.
Mrs. Leslie believes in feminine indie
pendence and individual preferences.
Let me show you an idea of my own car
ried into execution" said she tossing aside
the marveis of her new Partisan outfit and
drawing forth a practical looking COM
bination garment. This is what wear
in cold weather. It is woven in part silk
and part finest wool to the waist, and after
that it is all silk. 1t is low-necked and
suoIt-SAecscus because AIcSS quite Oecol-
lete in the evening.
snow, here's my fayorite silk skirt lined
to the knee with flannel and quilted from
the knee down. Anything warm about
the wrist is nonsense. Do approve of
the Jenness- Miller garments7 On, they
are horrible stiff; silk is not nice, either.
Wash silk garments are by no means
the dantiest. most comfortable or most
healthful a woman can wear. You viii
find that the most correct women will
wear lawns and cambria for everything but
skirts. | wear them all the year, and
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
THE NEW HARBOR.

Here the mountains all around us
Teach us lessons grand and strong:
Here the waters blue anu silver
Lying close in chain SO long;
Here the homo in beauty settled
Bearing trace of growth and peace,
Tell Us We must stand together
IL we would that strife should ceasaL
Lying near the Sounds blue waters
Are the lakes OF water pure,
Where the ocean trains might enter
For harbor ssie and sure.
On these shores are hidden treasures
That may then be brought to bear
On the future of our city.
whea the Queen her crown shall wear,
Such a hsrbor as ouy country
Cannot find in East or West:
When com pleted, this the chorus
That shall greet Us, at .rsls best
Then why should our own ,air city
Not stand firm for this-her righte
She belongs TO a grand nation
That for honss will always fight
Tho appeal was made in senate.
Some one dared this cause to plead.
Asked the country's aid, and listens
For support: the greatest need
Is the voice of anxious people
Who for home are taking thought
Who will Danish FOR season
Party strife, with danger fra9ghs
Then future, glad and glorious,
On the great Northwest shall dawn.
And hartor for our country
shsn be pure Lake Washington.
With her mountain-eIresed waters
Cleaning in the sunlight rare,
On her bosom bearing lightly
Ships so stately and 80 iair.
Nary BGrrst. Eo7Gs
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

sun tiara or coronet of diamonds. and
other valuable ornaments, generally heir
looms in the family, to the crown of the
couture, while in front three ostrich tins
are set drooping q his over the fringe of
eafls. These pluines are usually white.
sometimes pale blue or pale pink, but if
the court be in mourning. of course they
are black"
"Whas is the cost OF court coituref" l
asked.
'0h, some of the ladies carry enormous
fortunes in ornaments ON the head
have kssoen one caefiure 20 represent; a
cash seiue of sio. co, nearly $sa.asa
tsrvat cara has to ee taken in fastening
diamonds and gems in the hair securely
and ssiss branch az the hAlrsaresser's art Is
perhaps tte most fnsportant
VIVA elderly iaaies the styie Of court
hais dressing varies according to the
quantity ana quality of tae HAIR. Ladies'
OF advanced age usually wear lace man
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
The Dry Dock Grievance.
Walls walla rnion-Innrnal.


The Tacoma ledger, the personal organ OF Mr.
Nelson Baanett, splits ysaonously at tue secrs-
ts;y OF the navy because he awarded the con-
tract - a Tacoma Sentlems who uaier5ii him
sa,ooo for tho construction OF the dry dock at
Port Orchard IL Is noticed with
pain and sorrow thai the Letter is willing TO
take ss.toe moro from Pierce county for doing
The pubic printing than other Tesponsi BILE
parties offered 20 do 10 Tor. and unwilling thai
other Tacoma men should have = contract at
81. 900 less shaa its owner wanted for doing the
same work. The Lsttqe- is consistent IN always
wanting more than others are willing to take ior
the same hind OF work.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
self comfortably, beautifully and becom-

self comfortably. beautifully and becom-
ingiy.
But to return to Pauline.
She doesn't dress SO vesy differently
from DR.. Emily-that is. ots general prin-
cipies of underwear; but she.dons her gar
ments with . view to a certain taus trim
ness of ut which keeps srnosth the pretty
lines of embonpoint.
When / questioned her she said she
didn't know whether she dressed like any
body else or not. II wear sne Equestri-
eune-a silk thing. more lise tights than
any other comparison / cam think of. 1t
is IOw-necked, shoEt-sleeveG and 1t comes
to my knees. Then with ms silk skirt on.
I'm ready for winter and Ecan be warm,
too, If wear q heavy fur- coat" added
'.Puritania'sr star
From linen to silk is nay zonly conces-
sion to winter. People III Fay profession
must be reckless. That's thu only way to
be careful. Do / ever wear flannel? No,
mercy no! The touch of Il Il horrif-"
/ had meant to ask her Whist she tn ought
OF silk chemises-I'm interesed in nnding
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

women differ 50 radically aaout it-but
forgot to. because Miss Hall began telling
me of "Puritania's" struggle with cen
serious press. But the play is succeeding
so well that the actress ought to keep
warm with the praise shs receives-of
course aided by her Equestrssnnes.
Della Fox, whom | saw IN her jaunty
yachting costume behind tho scenes of the
Broadway theater, gave me views from an
actress standpoint. She spoke with a
laughing vigor, and she deiied hygienic
principles of seasonable ,snderclothing.
do think women should wear flannel
garments IN winter? Well, chat might do
way, don't you see? 1t wouiSn'. be safe to
wear-what do you call taose dreadful
things, Jenness Miller. isn'e it?-aII day,
and then expose myself duEIng the even
ing, when | must change nzy costume SO
often. There is nothing like silk. / think.
It's sweiler than anything else you buy.
and cooler and lighter. Those dainty
silks | just dote on. and i wear them
all the year round" Wien l asked if
she were not afraid of catching cold,
and harming her voice WITT carelessness,
she iaughingly retorted: 81 don't be-
lieve in the neck handkerchief idea.
By the by you get up 80 your ears
in wraps, and then where are you? No,
my underearments are ali SIX and all low
necked. Then when put on an evening
dress / battle my neck in some kind of
spirits, and am perfectly safe, Ii woman
Is dressed becomingiy she. sure to feel
comfortable. and if she's bosh pretty and
comfortable she can't help being health
full" Then the stage manager spoke to
Della and she hurried aTay, nodding
brightly, and saying: DID I tell you
everything you wanted to kssow?"
Charles Cummings. a negro porter, AGED Is
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

less coil which trembles at its insecurity.
But Cora doen't seem to mind il. Antoin-
cite Sterling's strong. almost Indian stvie
of face, is markedly individuaiized By part
ing the hair decidedly on the side 1t is
then drawn straight down, almost cover
ing the ears and worn in a careless coil at
the nape Of the neck
individuality in hair dressing is pleas
ing when becoming, but extremes which
irritate the eye are not to be forgiven even
in artists
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
Special Notice.

The Arlington hotel offers special reduced
rates for families slsi single gentlemen oy the
week or mouth. Table unsurpassed Rooms
tie nness III the city.
HAAN & seHkTTs, pEepgisiors.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
eseo REwARo,

We VIII pay the above reward for any case Of
Ltver Complaint CyspepsA, Sex Headache Iadl-
seesion. Constipation o. cosrveaess We cannot
cure with Vests Vegetable Live Pills when he
directions are strictly compiled with They are
purely Vegetable ana never fail 20 give satissac-
wsfe Of countesfeiss and imiia.iosa The genuine
eoad By LEirHEAD 4 CAwLEx, eos Front 81.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

chemises. These are not considered Quite
the thing now. Her substitute is the
odd, faneiful Boiden waist, or the
practical silk jersey. worn espe-
cially by driving women Tor the
warmth in its long sleeves. She wears
much lawn ana many iace-trimmed cam
brics. With tights and the union garment
10 furnish warmth, Fancy may have her
way with the further costumins of the
fashionable person.
Pauline Hall wears tights ali the time
OF the stage she calls them 'Eauestri-
ennes, which IS only another name for
one garment L have already twice de-
scrioeSi.
This consensus Of opinions is bringing
US to practical issues. isn't it, And i
really believe ii will benent the public 10
know how feasible IL Is 10 clotne ones
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

Charles Cummings. q negro porter, aged Is
years. committed suicide at Spokane Saturday
night by taking strychriHe.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

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The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02

must {
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The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-11-02
ACT
y
John
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JUDGE
CO Of NJ
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