The record-union., 1892-03-26
WAKEMAN'S WANDERINGGSS.
Fourth Interesting Letter On Malta
and the Maltese.
Coast and Interior scenes in the Island
of the Sword and Cowl-st. Paul's
Bay and Citta vecchia-Impressive
Prehistoric Remains = Wandering
Singers.
Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1921

Union. copyright, lo5S.i
VALErTA Malta, Feb. %, 1892.
The visitor to Malta is long while in
firing of the historic, architectural and
social attractions of Vsletta, especially in
the sunny winter time when day and
night seem filled with an endless round
of brilliant scenes and gayety. But if in
terest in the splendid old city of the
knights should begin to wape, there
would still be found an extraordinary
charm in the easily made excursions to
various points of interest III Malta and
the adjoining islands, and most pleasing
study of the peasantry under their Curl
Gus conditions of environment.
From Naletta one can reach the remot-
est points in Comino and COCO, even by
row or sail boats, with donkeys for the
interior lettering, and return to the city
within daylight hours; and as to Malta
itself-whose length is no more than
eighteen miles with an extreme breadth
OF less than twelve-I have often walked
from Valetta to Fort st. Lucian on the
southeast coast, to Citta Vecchia, the an
cient capital of the island, to st. Paul's
Bay, and to sunny, silent Dinglion, the
still in time for a Maltese breakfast,
which, If not meal of dainty perfection,
always possesses the aristocratic quality
OF intcrminable delay.
The coast scenery of western Malta and
all of Coco is very beautiful indeed, while
occasionally il reaches positive grandeur.
For the Bible student there are the scene
OF the shipwreck of st. Paul and several
places made famous by the Apostles stay
upon the island. For the simply curious
traveller there are the many ruined sum-
mer palaces of the Grand Masters, ancient
and interesting fortalices and palaces of
the lnquisition. The ANTIQUARIAN will
discover larger number of prehistoric
remains than upon any other equal area
with catacombs as fine as those of SYRIA
euse and greater than those of Rome.
biologists find extraordinarily favorable
conditions for researches, owing to the
bare, denuded condition of the island.
with its rocky seashore and noble cliff
exposures. And naturalists haunt the
islands in winter for studies of its rich
and wlnsome tenantry of migratory birds.
The most beautiful examples of coast
scenery are to be found upon Coco. Ii is
so near that days excursion in little
felucca, manned by two or three pictur-
esque and necessarily chattering boat
men, Will give one Il continuous feast OF
changeful scene, and almost a complete
l..
The shores of Malta are completely lined
with fishermen or women and children
gathering Seaweed tor enriching the Seant
soil of the island, and every little cove is
alive with color and soundful with song.
Even in winter the sparkling and phos-
phoreScent waters of the Mediterranean
are here bland and warm to the touch
and the young Maltese disport in the
waves during their arduous labors like
beVieS Of playful seatoWl; while the most
dangerous cliffs and precipices are so
crowded with them in their quest for
eggs, the young of the seafowl inhabitiny
the crannies of the cliffs, and for the
various forms of vegetation which are
stored with miserly care for fuel and
manure, that, AT some distance, the blend
ing OF c0iorS of costume with the prays
and green's of the island crags, often gives
the curious illusion that the seawalis are
atlame with gigantic tropical dowels.
Coco, which is called Gaudisch by the
native Maltese, contains no town al
though the tiny island, which is but six
miles broad and eight miles long. is
thickly inhabited. IL has six villages or
casals. These, with the outlying farms,
Tor it is very fertile island and under
the highest degree Of cultivation, are. or
We're in the old times, protected by an
ancient, though massive fort, called Ra-
bato. 1t is most picturesquely situated
at great elevation in the center of the
island. From its walls, with field-glass.
i have looked upon the splendid piano.
rama, of Malta with its terraced fields. its
old walled villages, its massive palaces.
and the far white city of Valetta; to the
north viewed Sicily with the glistening
cone of Btna above its dark and slender
thread OF horizon line; and seen to the
southwest, like purple dots upon the
shimmering Mediterranean blue. the
lonely isiets of Linosa and Lampedusa.
half way To the Tunisian shores of Africa.
The topography OF Coco is very beauti-
full. IL IS charmingly diversified by hill
and dale. Many OF Its sunny valleys are
natural and artificial gardens of won
drous Insurance. l have nowhere seen
their equal, save IN those marvellous gar
den wales behind beautiful Palermo i'm
Sicily. The shores present, save Mt a
very few points, perpendicular sea walls;
and on the western and northwestern
coasts they often rise straight from the
waters edge to hight of over 1000 feet.
These abound in caves of great size and
splendor; their sides and brows are the
haunts of myriad sea fowl; their nights
here and there show stunted and lonely
palms, and the air about them with the
sky above are often almost white with
millions OF the slowly sailing and eN-
quisitely beautiful little Adriatic gulls.
l cannot youch for the emotions OF
others, but as | first tramped over the
nights of Nasciar, descending into the
valley beyond, and saw spread before me
the Bay of ST. Paul, a sense of awe ming
led with glorious citation came with the
stiffness and beauty OF the spot where the
heroic Apostle was shipwrecked. The
bay, which is about two miles long and
one in breadth, is situated on the north
ern coast of Malta, and is hardly distant a
brisk two hours walk from the city OF
Naletta. Countless excursions are made
hither by water from Malta's capital. and
often the roads are filled with all manner
OF vehicles conveying pious or curious
pilgrims. preferred coming in the early
morning and alone.
As | stood on Nasciar Nights the sun
was just rising above the promontory OF
Ras Ell kaura, Its rays fell softly upon
the sleeping waters. They gave the little
memorial chapel bright aud smiling
face. They deepened the shadows on the
eastern shore, where fishermen were
lazliy spreading their nets. They pierced
the copses and chimes of the Melliha
slopes, disclosing the huts and cabins of
the lowly folk, who are nearly as naked
and quite as listless of civilization as
Were their barbarian forefathers
among whom St. Paul was cast nearly
2,009 years ago. They mellowed the gravs
OF the massive walls of the ancient Sal
mona Palace, which crowns the Melliha
rocks 10 the northwest. And where the
little island OF GZeier, like a bit of the
cliffs tumbled into the sea, at the north
showed lis saffrony surface between the
blue of the bay and the sapphire of the
sea, they Hooded the great statue of the
saint with such transcenaent shine and
seeming that the Quickened fancy. for
an instant at least, swept across the
centuries and basked in the very pres
ence of that far and mighty soul.
A winding road skirts the beautiful
bay. An ancient wall. half hidden with
shrubs and flowers, forms boundary