The Breckenridge news. (Cloverport, Ky.) 1876-1955, 1892-11-23

In the first place IL requires one yard and
half of strong silesia or drilling for waist
lining. This should be cut into the form
shown by the diagram, but the darts should
not be cut until 1t is fitted. To get the
proper dimensions put the material doubled
lengthwise, on n table, and having the dia-
gram before you measure the length of the
waist from the neck to the bottom Make
dots at these places along the doubled sell
wage Measure the length from shoulder
to waist and the distance from the straight
line from shoulder to front, keeping the
same distance to bottom; then mark the
darts, which must vary according to the
figure of the person. If very stout they
must be about two inches across at the
waist line; IL slender, one to one and a half,
and reference to the diagram will show
the form. The back and side body pieces
are to be measured from top to waist line.
When the lining is cut, allowing at least
three inches margin beyond the seam. it
should be basted and tried on, the seams
being left on the outside. The filter should
then take in" the seams and pin them
until the whole lining fits perfectly, snug
in all parts, but Binding in none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it off and
iron 1t, so that the pins will make marks
and show just where the seams should go.
Then the lining should be rebasted, fol-
lowing the line of the pins on the outside
of them, and the pins then pulled out.
Try the lining on again, right side out.
When the fit Is perfect the lining should
be ironed again, the seams being laid apart
this time, and after this the basting stitches
should be clipped so that the different
Tiarae will fall NJ hnttt hafnoy n,,lIaJ
The lining, with an allowance for seams
of at least one inch all around, can now be
laid upon the outside material and pinned
so that it cannot slip and be cut. Care
must be taken that all the figures run one
way IL the goods are figured or the nap il
Of wool, and that the selvage edge comes
straight with the front of the waist. The
outside should be allowed n trine larger
than the lining, rs 1t Is often Of goods that
will fray.
Basic the lining to the outside with great
care, for much of the beauty and smooth
ness depends upon the basting. The lining
should be held upward so that it may he
just the least bit loosen than the outside.
The basting stitches should follow the out
line of every separate part of the basque
and up both sides Of each dart. More de-
ponds upon care in basting than people
usually suppose.
When all the outlines are properly basted
with stitches not more than nefourth of
an inch long, turn the front over and haste
as designated by the pins. A very full
bust will require V shaped plat in front,
as per diagram, IN the lining only, and
sometimes for quite stout ladies the front
line will need turning in quite deep at
neck and waist line, but the pinholes will
show just how much is required.
The buttons 20 on the left side and the
buttonholes ON the right, and the lap for
these should be deep enough TO have the
buttonholes cut in the doubled place.
Leave the under lap fat and sew strong
piece Of tape along for the buttons.
When this is done, haste the darts, be-
ginning sthe seam from the top, tapering
from an imperceptible point. The darts
should never be very high, the back one
being an inch higher than the front, and
this about two inches below the under arm.
The seams must always be commenced
from the top and carefully basted before
sewing, care being taken to keep from
pickering the seams Basic the two darts
first, then the side cores beginning at the
arm size. The two middle backs should
be then basted together, beginning at the
top; then the side pieces, which are the
most difficult Of all.
II the waist now proves TO fit perfectly
the seams can be sewn firmly and neatly,
but always on the outside of the basting,
next the edge, rs the basted seams are
elastic. and sewing them tightly makes
couple of inches difference. When they are
sewn lay the seams open and trim the edges
neatly with the scissors and overland or
bind with lustring, II preferred. At the
waist line two Sits should be cut In the
seams nearly to the seam, and after the
edges are bound or overcast they should be
pressed carefully with "A hot iron before the
bone castings are sewn ON or the ease belt,
and before the bottom is finished of. II
the goods are wooden, they should be slight
ly moistened; II Of silk, the iron should not
be too hot nor the silk moistened. The
press board should have one thickness Of
hannel and one Of muslin.
OLIVE HARPER