St. Paul daily globe., 1892-05-29

assistance from outside. An establish
ment of twenty and twenty-five ser
wants, with chef at the head, finds its
routine seriously interfered with, and
usually gets lii a few men to assist. In
the busy season an order for dinner
must be booked at least ten days before
hand, and there are two dinner weeks
in the year that need six weeks book
ing.
I'm the mid week of December and
Easter week." says a fashionable ca
terer. Il could not take another order a
month beforehand if l were offered
S5,O0O." Still it might not be safe to
make this offer.
Having made up her list and settled
upon her date, the hostess consults with
her caterer. If she is regular Gus
toner she knows his chefs, and has
preference. She will change her date
to secure an especial chef. The caterer
consults the chef, and menu is sub
mitted. This is carefully gone over.
dishes changed and eXpurgated--deli-
cacieS out of season added-al of which
influences the estimate. Ten to twelve
dollars cover at this season will secure
brook trout and choice viandS all
through-of course exclusive of wine,
which ought always to come from the
caterer.
But so much a plate by no means
covers the expense. The flowers are
eXtla if any pr0fusion is used, and the
dinner cards are another large item.
These the caterer will provide, but host
esses prefer to get them made to order
after some exclusive design. Two to
five dollars apiece may be easily invest
ed in these dainty trifles. The table is
now to be considered. oval, square or
round. All caterers and many families
have an assortment of dinner tops of
different sizes and shapes, which are
fitted onto the usual dining table of the
house. A dinner of over twenty-four
guests is usually served at small tables;
two or three dining rooms i'll private
houses in New York are of sufficiently
noble proportions to seat forty persons
about single round table. On the
night of dinner to be served at 7:30
the chef arrives about o'clock with his
assistant, and the family cook leaves
him in undisputed possession Of the
kitchen. The butler and his men also
come at that time and proceed to laythe
table. One man is allOwe d to every six
persons, so that for dinner Of eighteen
two besides the butler will be needed.
As the hour approaches for the guests
to arrive one of the men servants of the
family, the coachman or fOOtman, is
stationed at the door, provided with a
list of the guests expected, so many
ladies and so many gentlemen. AS
each comes in he checks the arrival off,
and when the last has come he sends
word to the chef. The rule is to serve
dinner fifteen minutes after the last
guest arrives. Meantime, just before
the hostess Is dressed, and just before
she takes her place in the drawing
room, she steps in TO look over the
table, approving, suggesting, criticislng
or sharply condemning, as she discovers
things. If possible, her changes are
quickly carried out, but, from the mo-
ment man throws open the doors and
announces ''dinner is served" the re-
sponsibility of the dining room rests
with the butler.
After the dinner the clearing off
process is usually prolonged to touch
the time when the guests shall have
gone, as an interview with Madame to
hope that she is pleased means s. or
$40 bill sent out to the chef,and second
one TO be divided by the butler among
his men and himself. Before the house
is closed for the night there will be no
trace of the evenings entertainment
left, save the freshest of the drawing
room flowers.