davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

gl'mpse OF the color at the waist line. for this
coat Is very precisely buttoned and Ia very rre-
else and ele .ant. Of course. in richer style the
tailor-made gown should he like Cwsar,s wife.
above reproach." in the matter OF nj. hut
really the tnilors make quite as many md de-
cont decision of the courts in the long suit
between Bernhnrdt and one OF her dress
makers over tho had III OF a garment in fa-
yor. OF. the actress, has demcns'ratch tho
wear perfectly fitting garments. the law al.
lows 1t and the Court awards, It," Yet we
waive our right and accept bodies that ride
up in the back and that wrinkle in front.
and pay n most abominable amount FOR tho
privilege OF wearing them. Some time. when
all other reforms and ennalities have hcen cs-
kingdom. some woman may arise In her might
and begin n crusade against wcmhns being
compelled 10 pay twice rs much as man for
garments that do not fit her hall SO well. md
overv woman with n grievance Will iall in line
and hasten the moment That viii come to
pass when the woman. counsel shall horcady
/ plead the case and tho woman Judge. to
give tho verdict: for how shall! mnn Judge
the fine points Of woman's gown IL she be
young and fair. he will think the gown perfect
any way. If she DO past the prime he won't
notice IL ut all.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
THO UOuiN DEIWNEES.
Attractive Of Pcr-onaIity. They Are Capable
In Business aud successful.

The woman drummer '0 comparatively new
and unique feature %! Commercial economy.
Amor. the most SiccrSSIul are Mrs. l.. VI.
Hughes. who represents n ~ ,ir"Go house on II
salary which i.:n!ics even thica." generosity,
md Mrs Davis. II Gotham product. small
and fair. with a pleasant voicc and great de-
cision u. character. who j. called thu n"rviest
litt,. creature on the road. owing to her Al
trnctIvr Iet sunali,y Mrs. Davis is a mark for
the Washers insuieucr. hut sh" handles him
Ms She does her gonG-. without gloves. and
generally disposcs nf each ambitious repre-
sentative at The first r,cnuls-, Mrs. Hughes
spices and has a racy little touch Of her pro-
duct IN Der personality shs allows her VIC
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
A FEW THINGS TASTEFULLY DTSP OSED
wcre sunicicnt DnIntiIy to Benutiry This
Glrl's Room.

"Show mo a girls room and I'll tell You
what manner OF woman she Is" is an old saw
in the womnn's book Of character study. and
the other day. when ushcred into room I'M
like any other in the universe. 1t needed no
oracle to announce to tho writer that 1t was
the nest OF ladybird with ideas and original.
ity. n happy faculty Of making the best OF
things, AMI an artist BY instinct II not by pro-
fession. Tho first thing to attract attention
was wonderfully sunny window. with sash
curtain OF thin yellow silk covered with
tho soft gray shadows OF dancing vine leaves.
The window had an unpleasant outlook.
and the silk for its decoration had been
carried to veranda. where vino nude
the shadow OF its graceful leaves upon tho
floor. Sho had laid the silk down where the
shadows were most perfect. and then had
fixed them forever with soft gray water colors
and gathered it in her window sash. Beneath
the. window she had arranged a, little seat
with yellow cushion. ind drared across tho
window nole aud down ono side me wihuoW q
curtain OF striped Grenadne-white with yell
low and dull blue and olive in me curtain
Gesd" it was arevo!ving book stand MED With
stretched out in front. and on this We're moro
cushions. the heavy ones OF which FORM seat
of 1 y WIN" S to
drnpcd across one circle Of the room: making
with its ,rinEes and tnsselS brilliant hteo "a,
''oii. ''tlli Given NiN " Wv
summer to tho next. Hut she, had ilcas il sho
didn,t have the yeranda: So sho Put up hooks
pended the luxurious web thereon when she
wanted to forget how busy she was. When
not III use more hooks simply drarc,d
Ana last OF ali was noticeable the
dressing table. which was made after the
Old duchess fashion. ample and low enough
Tor its possessor to utilize. rcstlully sitting
in tho low white chair which stood before It.
The table was made OF u woodsn frame. which
she herself designed. the top PADDED covered
with pale green Silesn. aud then with dotted
musl in. All about was frllcd II curtain OF the
silcsa. with the muslin over it, iluted irlll at
the bottom. another at tho ton.
Tho mirror was ono OF tho od-fnshIoneu
kind. wit the upper half n picture the lower
half glass. There were painted cupidS in
tho picture and the muslin draped down each
side Of il. On tho tai bic were most delicate ell ma
trays with ivory brushes inlail with u tiny
CIPHER OF silver on the back. and china pow
der boxes and hairpln boxes and all the para
phernalia Of tho toilet in china RECEIPT acles.
with ono or two bits OF silver polished to
the last degree of brightness One couldn't
help loving the woman after ono glance at
the toilet table. which was the daintest ever
arranged. except the one from which it was
copied. and which they will show you still in
the apartment OF Nine. de Htmusat. The he'd
was OF brass with white hangnGs over the
faint green Innings. and with an ld-fashioned
valance of muslin beneath its counterpane of
white. with green ribbons threaded IN and out
CT its opeu-wurk border.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
THE NEW BELL SKIRT.
Wherein II Differs from tho One TINT n
Just Keignrd Supreme

Tho eccen.rlclties Of the bodlces are
piouant and 30 varied that in studying IL
ono quite overlooks the fact .hat 1t Is the s,
after all. which should engage our attent
Tho fashionable bodice is to certain de.
an established fact. When the two great
thorlties OF the mode failed to agree rs to
dress period which should dominate desi
we compromised by acceptin: both ideas
wearing our waists under the arm pits for o
Ing pictures1uenoss. and claspin. our cir
10 give tho greatest possible length OF waist
TOR morning sm8rtness. Fashion smiles |
our idiosyE craslos. and We 20 on in our
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

Tins to pursue their frantic struggles to make
an i'm pression until they arrive at the point OF
exchanging cards. Then she presents. with
great nonchalence. her business card contain
Ing the firms advertisement and asks IL she
can do anything for them. Usually her nd
good comrades and friends. and when she
meets tho boys at supper or at theatre parties
she insists on paying her share Of the ex-
Mrs. Hughes meets with little carping at the
innovation OF tho woman drummer and enjoys
her work SO much that she says. Of all things
In tho world next to being a woman drummer
she would like 10 be man drummer.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

watch chain. The dimensions are. about two
inches long when closed. three eighths Of an
OF ornamcntation the most beautiful Is either
continuous chain OF small diam onds twincd
diagonally around tho pencil or tiny clusters
Of Jewels set some little distance nrart. but
following n diagonal line. The Indian"
finger ring. richly carved and chased in Indian
style. is perhaps for the time being most pop
ular. Sleeve buttons and links divide honors.
but to tho fore in the medium priced varieties
ame with and without gold ornamentation.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

high .faring collar. Very dressy are those
worn OF lark green velvet, with trimmings OF
rich and handsome Jet and fur borders. Tho
coat In the cut has q solid yoke Of let, full
run Of velvet covered with jet and wired into
tho slinpe desired. and II soft, deen founce be-
low that. which is OF velvet In this case. but
lnGies are wearing these conts in velusuueH
red. with Jokes Of gold and lot embroidery
TO simply made. always of black. and OF rich
material.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

woman in reross: and what so conducive to
that ideal grace Of rcsttuIness as the tea gown
in its highest form ri EXPRESSION. And what
more important gown than this in which one
prcsidts ut breakfast, taat most trying meal OF
tho day. when 1t isn't easy for great beauty
to be anythin: hut plain, and plain woman
to rise above being ugly. particularly II one Is
obliged every moruinL: to SIT opposite I he one
man on earth for whose good opinion she has
\ miserable craving something hmGht and
light and IuinD rAI"hcs I i" masculine fancy
every time. and h"l@~ rIaks him forget how
"vcrdonu is tine steak. how En!crd"no tho
mullins. and Ia" l,miir. mod" lcnds IT.
t"f very prc,tlly to tho cNiEoncics Of
this styl" % ."Wp. thaiti2. printed cash
mere. and Iniii silk arr materials which
produce alr!o>t Is gratifying results as
Tho more" costly rncat"s and Ne!vctH.
Fancy y lale blue rha.i" with II lowcr pat
tern inc!uaing InnrN =;r"n l"nV"s. In tho
back til" iulu"sS Itl!~ from Il STIRRED Vatican
escaping from ~mu!, r'N":s 81 green Velvet.
In front there j. ilji." Et"k"t "itrct with
hr"ai i"Ncrs vt groom velvet and n full
straight gown a,r'ii"I u"A"r IN" bust with II
i0,irh cart OF I'iy". IN odd l.it rrhnt" Inc
tag "f lace and v"'N"l '". tain The h""-"h6ld
kew. -" pencil AMI tairc;s: nj tho trouble
some li'tle trap. u v. nan i always forget.
tin!: when tcr.:cil"l'".- means n climb "t
~" o. tlicr i'-n'" 90 St,'iS. ma
here Is another n."A fJr tea gown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
MODES MaF COME AND MAY GO,

hut the Tnilor.made Gown. Close. httinE and
Elegant, Goes on Forever.
In the vain and transitory world OF fashion.
where modes may come and modes may 60.
the tailor made gown goes on forever. Especi-
ally at this time OF year are they greatly in re-
quest. when their trimness and rcatncss can
not be destroyed even by tho fog and rain
and mud OF our delightfully."- English weather.
Two styles prevail largely in the tailor gown.
One il designed to mako n short woman
look as well as she can in this reign OF tall
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
IDEAL GRICE OF REsTFULNEss
Lies in the Ten Gown Drnping Fair Woman.
Most Perfect In Kcpose.

The tea gown has been brought rather into
disrcpute Of late from tho fact that people
think they can run them UP at home" and
that they can make them out OF odds and ends.
tied round with n scarf OF something else. until
the woman who wears one reminds you OF
Eiley's raGEetv man" or an animated bar
gain counter. The Perfect man. some one has
said. is most perfect in motion. the perfect
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
THE FANCY rs FOR DARK GOWNS,

wNh Velvet Coats or Capes In Rich, Bright
Shades.
One very marked feature OF the seasons
fashions is the fancy for wearing dark gowns.
with coats or capes Of velvet in rich bright
shades and very ornate and brilliant in dec-
orntion. Particularly effective. because as yet
uncommon. are tho coats OF black or dark
green velvet worn by the tall. slight women.
productions. These coats are cut much on tho
old basque order. with very 1aring skirt
fulling out from tho waist, and deep
shoulder RULES. or several frlled capes with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
SHAPELY FEMININE FORM
The Riding Habit Sets Off
Contour and Color Fine,
APPROACHING CHRISTINA
Bids Early Preparation for Fittin
Gifts to Loved Ones.

n.rx yeivets and Other sombre-hued Gown
oo.,nt Fashions in Jeweiry, and the Me-
Well SKIRT Hold voman's Present Fancy
Mode. May Como ana Go. bnt tho Tailor
u.de Gown Remains In voaue-Tcn G owr
Ideally Restfui-A Girrs Dainty Room
womnn Is almost the better half OF the hun
Inc neld in England. and this year sho ia
nlsnti,ul and picturesque contingent Of OF
AVN meets. British blood In women ms We
"a men contains hunting globules. In som
Ala families this Ia assured by stirring bnby'
LILY At tho earliest opportunity with I'll
h,,sh OF q fox. And besides the spirit Sill
,;np, more c.hilaratin. rush through the n
Gar tho hounds. Is thore not for the ladies Ill
.aatlonal charm Of chance for disrlayin
IN. ,ympetrical outlines of q fro figure
IN. snuc smnrtnssa OF tho riding habit. whic
4, ,he,r hunting fold takes in a great vartet
nistyles and admits Of q pleasing tri!!ianc
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

which consists OF a long dropping puff. falling
tire length on the outside. Inside this pull
the arm appears covered with close sleeve Of
rich and brilliant brocado. or Of silk in some
vivid contrast to tho outside. The two sleeves
most worn are the Empire. which has very
full. short pmf with long close sleeve below
pun som etimes quite one yard in circumfer:
encc. falling to tho elbow and supplemented
rial. And il not content even with this.
over this pun. there may fail ,drapery OF, an
a broad rufie Of velvet, four or five inches in
width. lined with silk and box plated into the
armhole, standing out aGgressirelv IRON the
shoulder until little. slight weman measures
from sleeve tip 10 sleeve tip n most aStonish-
ing number OF inches black brocade gown
lance had n crimson velvet outer. cap. to the
sleeve. embroidered in gold and jewels. this
pit OF color giving an air OF great distinction
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
IN VELVET COINS SOMBRE. HUED.
Slnshed Sleeves Reveal Wealth OF Color
mt shoulder una Elbow.

at Shoulder and Elbow.
Sleeves are extravagances In which may be
traced features belonginGing to all periods
and peoples. An otherwise modest gown OF
sombre color breaks out in blaze OF color at
the shoulder or at tho elbow, where gay elk
or satin or velvet flash through slnshes in the
material When these slashos obtain at the
shoulder the sleeve is copied from tho IIuguo-
not dress in tho sixteenth century. when the
slashos appear at tho elbow it Is from
Venice that the fancy comes. Another
most surprsin: kind OF o sleeve is that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

this time u :ia;n prrrcssc n Old rose cr;ron.
with a front ri rr'rr, 'in chine. AN en-
hrnidr.rni 0rr'. ainnt IL" mock. and an en-,
ii" rr,.rr ri.l nir",r, @, Lack corded six,
,loyh"d' a. tho ".h," win rios" Rulings
cu, al interval. ~ i"Ur q. Is" in"io; the Sits
i.,tnn!l"lI Win lIart,. aud in AMI ont is
threaded u broad ,la'i. rIh u tying in II bow
on either sd" Of TIA" front. \ dainty and mod
rsi little tucker %, ilnu lac" poems up anOvo tho
nchu and covers tho nee. ccOm.ngy.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

Up dc 10 soorned by every smart girl wearer
erayats as much as by her own and other cir
many hunting women for top boots. with st
high legs. but these prove decidedly unco
Portable In case spill necessitatcs any Grt
degree Of walking. Patent leather or Rus
leather boots. with the :nstep and ankle
tho stlrrup foot we'll protected. and the leg
blocked too. hard. are those most pntr'
ped By ladies. The round hard felt r
ones. and tie cover coat. made with lo
backs and strapped seams. is an indispen
bio feature OF the hunting woman's out
With the safety habits and safety saddles n
may take dangerous leaps. but women kno
way round q man usually. and win their I
piles with less expenditure OF life and II,
Ono hunt club in Great Britain has 9 J;
any sportsman In the fold.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

earcor OF hurdeninr and lroodonipg
enolldcrs with grand"uruntil ouroytrnin
az ne. elected and unrarrd fpr look ton
nincant for tho honn"" # Nuaring Tho wei,
mannillc"ncc. Mran,iuo III" skirt is ~
naEG through nrorIsN .. evolution tia
orr last years gowns M t. ,!atr. Tia lin
uon Glyen indicate, til" ,Eirt do. in It's
~. state OF development. Its shaln is r,
INN .or"s let IN. in III. in.,r.
Nv t bharE ,nnI extra iuiac-s also &,
stles. The s.;irt measures flyo ards mr.
~ IL potion. and is SHRED aero Is the la
sns To-. Tor space Of six inches THE q
IL sn t1in ne sides 1T over he hips. and a
'ns Hops there mar be either darts or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

women. 1t has n perfectly plain. round sSirt
which barely touches the sroTn!, and Thi'h
is decidedly IN icr than that OF last year. With
this skirt thevc Is worn Il it'll" round cost
perfectly straight around tho hii's and closing
with ono button il! front. OF left entirely omen.
rs ono fanc"s. over the gaycst. smartest i,'ln
waistcoGst that tho genius Of the tailor can
devise or tho graceful contour Of wolrnns
waist irlmoriui2r. tbs wnis:coat Iu-t nov
8 ant to 10 light in co,or-wntc. With II Spe"k
OF Lluo or o. red: blue with Il dot Of scarlet or
Of yellow. The waistcoat must he double
precisely like IL mans vest. Tne tour-n.
hand tie with u linen or rerca!" cola and
cuils. cioscd with link buttons. heavy dogasili
that must be POLISHED il tho rcgu-
lar way. u Loutunnihyr OF green pin rs. ana 2
gold EioIoc!o str1n3 On ..Ion: Gp!d ehHi!i. a.!
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04
WOMiS'S IDTC.fTION.
Notes from tho Universlties-"M NJ. A. for
Two Harvard Annex GEris

Considering tho recent date Of the admission
OF women to tho Scottish universities. an un.
expectcdly large number have awaited them
selves OF tho privileges offered. In Edin-
burEh about 100 women hnye joined tho art
classes. including 3S that arc studying music.
The university has made no provision for
giving n medical education to women. but
over fifty women arc studyinl, IN the School OF
Medicine for women. Surgeons square
Glasgow University in regard to the mod
ica education Of wonlrn. leads all the others-
Queen NlargarocS College. which is aiHli-
atcd with tho university. and recognized ny
the Court and the Senat" ms the WoInens Do
uartmcnt in Medicine Gnd Arts. has LOO stu.
dents. OF whom ~ arc doing medical work.
In st. Andrews nineteen women have ma
circulated in the Faculty Of Arts. and have
Lren awarded hursarios OF various amounts.
The women students look very picturesque in
their red Gowns and tr"nrhor caps of tho reg
ular undrrgraduato Hr"ss. In Aherncen III"
number OF women studruts is smaller. only
eleven so lar havin: applied for admission.
Tho VI. A. certificate has been awarded at
til. Harvard Annex 10 but two young women.
Miss lanni" Holman Of Cambridge and MISS
I.ury :. Locke OF West Deiham. Final honors
wcro awarded for tho first time THIS year TO
Miss Flora Stevenson. member Of the Fdtn.
hurgh School board has been made nm Hon:
"rary Fcllow Of the Educational Institute OF
Scotland. Miss Stevenson H. tho first WOMAN
upon whom this honor has been conferred.
Tho Womnp's College OF baltimore has 600
students thj< ear. The IniEerSity OF Michi-
Gan has ,ps5o than 1uJ women IN its different
CcpartY 7itS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

IN color. though the pink" hunt coat 4
rarely seen? The waistcoat Is q matter d
particular Importance and Of much diversit'
ia material. color. and cut. and very horse
In all Lady Brooke. the perfection Of who's
equestrian attire Is proverb with the Esse,
Hunt, wears sometimes long-skirted coat
roueh.surfaced Oxford gray cloth over
double. breasted vest OF white plush leath
Or. fastened with gold buttons bearin
the hunt cipher. On other occasions red
brown tweed riding coat opens over single
breasted vest OF buff velvet cord. dotted wit
male blue silk dots. Dark shades OF blu,
green and brown. once favorite colors &c
equestrian attire. are not considered at a
smart now except in the hunting field. an
then only when these tints belong to the clu
colors. A pretty woman member OF anotht
well.known Hunt, who is generally there (
theres bouts." to use sporting parlance. whe
tho pack checks or kills. has uniform OF era
. single breasted coat with scarlet cola
and q double breasted crimson cloth walls
coat. with gold buttons engraved with {
Earrs coronet.
Tho tie Is with all business-like ridir
women Of some soft. washing material Ill
canvas. tied with great precision. The mad
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

the top into tho holt. The trimming
\ three graduated bands OF velvet
It tho three bands nre frequently
b number. and in successive rows
k lrt to tho knees.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

are features OF this dress. when worn by tho
exec exec; slv"ly swaGgcr girl. Indeed. some nl the
they taxi their morning walks nhr"nd, have
enc Town mad Of Harris cloth because IL
With color. or Win a Yer" Very haring wi,oIe.barl;
boX coat. with lapred seams. and bic pearl
designed only for diyinely tall women. and
has, long Enghsh frock coat; double
bright wsistcoat above the coat and Just .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-12-04

Members Of the Rev. Edward +. Hale's Lend
a Hand clubs in Boston have established n
MONDAY rest for women employed in tho city
where they may enjoy tho lunches brought
from home with n cup Of hot tea or broth. and
may he supplied with hot lunches at small
cost. Tho drcarineSs Of eating cold food in
tho crowded and uncomfortable quarters Usu-
ally reserved for lunch rooms. and the ten
dency of the lunch box to destroy rather than
satisfy al appetite for food. can be appreciated
only by those who habitnaly make the noon
day meal otf bit of the dinner roast and half
dry bread. For the privileges Of tho Rest u
woman pays ten cents week.
Asheville daily citizen. [volume] (Asheville, N.C.) 1890-1900, 1892-04-13
A BURNING "STAR."
washingtOn's Best Evening Pa
per Fired Out.

WASHINGTON, April 13.-Shortly be-
fore 8 o'clock this morning fire was dis
covered in the press room of the Evening
Star building. The flames quickly found
their way through to the upper floors
where the stereotyping and composing
rooms are situated. About sixty prin-
ters were at work on the upper floor
beside large number of employees in
other parts of the building. There was
hurried rush for the stairways. but
such was the rapid progress of the fire
that a number were driven back by the
smoke and obliged to make their escape
through the windows to the roofs OF
adjoining buildings and Others by lad
ders which had been hastily procured.
On the arrival of the fire department
one printer was the only person then in
the building; he was rescued.
The fire was confined to the L. of the
main building and the principal damage
is from water The valuable presses or
the lower floor are thought not to be Sc
riously damaged. Paper to the estima
ted value of $40, 900 stored on the mar
floor is total loss. The contents OF th'
composing room were seriously damaged
as well as was the stereotyping appa
ratus.
The total loss is estimated at $25, 900
covered by insurance. Arrangement
we're at once made to get out the regu
lar issue of the paper today presses
the National Tribune.
Asheville daily citizen. [volume] (Asheville, N.C.) 1890-1900, 1892-04-13
CAN'T BE TRUE?
Harrison said to Have Shunted
Quay al Last.

PHILADELPHIA, April 10.-There will
be no reconciliation between Senator
QUAY and President Harrison, and, as a
result, Mr.. Harrison may eventually not
be a candidate for denomination. A few
days ago Congressman Bingham, O'Neil,
and Reyburn, accompanied by Postmas-
ter.General Wanamaker, called upon the
president to urge him to forget the past
and to receive Quay. This was with
the idea that the Pennsylvania republi-
can convention, to be held on April 20,
would declare for Harrison and to as
sure him Of the siXty.four delegates from
this state to Minneapolis.
The surprise of the delegation was
great when the president turned to Mr..
Wanamakcr and said:
"The less YOU have to do with Mr..
Ouav the better it will be for yourself.
He is not fit man to associate with"
When this was told the Senator he
was angered. He immediately began to
discuss with his fellow senator's the
availability OF Blaine as presidential
candidate, and the boom in the interest
of the secretary last week is due to
Ouav's work. The men who were pres
cnt at the interview with President Har
rison saws that, unless Quay, Platt
CIarkson, and the rest are solid for him
Mr., Harrison will decline the nomina
ton. Up to this time Quay has refused
to tell his most intimate friends who /:
his presidential chcice.-New York Sun