The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1892-01-23
WAKEMAN'S WANDERINGS.
His Fourth Interesting Tramp
Across Portugal.
The Poet Traveller IN : Homes of
the Portuguese Peasantry = Bound
less Hospitality, LfGhtsome Labor
and Joyous Content Charming
Studies Among the Lowly.


Studies Among the Lowly.
Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1921
TAvIRA, Portugal, January Z, 1892.
My Gallegan guide, servant, compan-
ion and friend, honest Dobrado, became
so enamored of our lettering sort of wan
derings. that, on leaving Beja, / had no
difficulty in overcoming his scruples
against travelling on foot. And so our way
to the southern seacoast of Portugal,
perhaps $50 miles by the windings of the
quaint cid thoroughfares OF the country,
was made from Beja in this delightful
manner.
In no strange land have walked that
distance with such a continuous sense
of elation of interest. There are early
October days in our own land which all
these days and nights recalled-days
when the verdure is still rich upon the
trees; when the aftermath has pushed
above the stubble of the fields and spread
an emerald carpet above the after-harvest
here; when skies are cloudless and of
wondrous depth of blue, and when an
aroma that hints Of fruit or of wine is in
the bracing air; evenings when the whole
sky is ablaze from the setting round red
suns that seem to wait huge and glorious
before plunging beneath the purple pill
lows of the west, and nights when the
cleaning of lights from farms and hamlets
quickens the footstep of belated wander
ers, and unconsciously makes more eager
all home gatherings where fresides are
already taking on bit of the winter
glow.
This is the only winter Central and
Southern Portugal know. There is a
tender elation in it. You unconsciously
breathe great drafts of the exhilarating
air. Your head is erect and you walk in
fine strong strides. Then there are
countless sights and scenes which charm
and enthrall; of handicapped sierra, of
heath-covered moor, of boundless forest,
of valley landscape, of mountain-side
hamletS strung together as on a gaudy
thread by strange PROFESSIONS; of huge
old windmills as in Holland, of gigantic
water-wheels creaking and swinging and
oxen circling about them in endless
tread, of walled-in farm houses built as if
to withstand siege, and of every form of
peasant labor and paStime, always of
deepest interest because telling the story
of everyday life and living of the humble
folk Of any land, upon whose labor and
lives, after all, the entire social and gov
ernmental superstructure Of any nation
is laid.
A SUMMER land in which to travel does
not exist. Hospitality is universal and
intense. 1t is so extraordinary a char
acteristic among all classes that it often
becomes an impeachment to progress in
travel. Between Evora and Tavira, about
$50 miles by road, we are literally COM
PEELED to enter more than 100 homes. In
a dozen Of these we were quartered for
the night, and in all others refres hments
were offered and partaken of. Most in
teresting of all were the visits to the ruin
Gus old mOnaSterieS.
1t often seemed that we must have been
espied at distance of miles, for in many
instances some ambling Old ServitOr was
sent to meet us, or again a kindly-faced
friar halted US at the roadside, and, pre-
cisely as if the visit were prearranged,
conducted us to his monastery, often a
little and pinched habitation where less
than a score of the order seemed to- be
gaining a livelihood. The welcome and
Denedlctlon at parting were always of a
character to convey the idea that our COM
ing had placed our host under inexpressi-
bic obligations, while the eagerness of
these mountainside monks to gather the
meagerest knowledge of the outer worlds
affairs and activities was often touching
and pathetic in the extreme
Friar, farmer and peasant were alike
in punctillouS observance of one pleasant
custom. AT our departure they always
accompanied us some distance, and FREE
quently for miles, on our way. Then,
standing by the wayside until we were
quite out OF hearing and sight, they sent
after US all manner of friendly benedic-
tionS interspersed with boa Viagem!-
boa wagon" Good voyagei-good voy-
age until they must have returned to
monastery, villeggiatura or cabin hoarse
from their kindly called farewells.
Dobrado tells me this boundless hos
81
guese religion; that they have as COM
mon saying, Courses follow lily well
coined Travellers" and that the belief is
general here that good fortune comes in
degree to the bountiful entertainment of
strangers who may chance among them.
! have found the same custom and belief
prevailing in only one other place in Eu-
rope. That is the west of Ireland, among
the poor but great-hearted folk of lone
and rugged Connemara.
But of deeper interest than all else are
the lowly folk of this fair land. L have
not seen in town or city an instance of
what we know as want and suffering.
The lowly in Portugal possess nothing;
acquire nothing; have burning ambitions
for nothing. A bit of cornmeal or rye
bread washed down with water is a re-
past. Add to the bread a bit of fish, a
handful OF olives or few swallows of
wine, and it is a feast.
The singing scourge of necessity for
providence with which the rigors of win
ter lash our poor is incomprehensible
here. AT their backs are mountains and
valleys green to the sun and sky the
whole year through, and never failing in
their rich yield Of fruit and grains. At
their feet are broad rivers or the almost
encircling sea with luscious food free for
the taking. None ever become rich
None ever arrive at our own idea of a
modest competency. None scarcely know
how to think how riches can be desirable.
The wonder with them is that any one
should worry and strive-that any human
being should ever be in hurry. AS with
the Cubans in their languor- breeding
cline, whose mdpdnG! tomorrow y is
the key to their torpor and vassalage,
paciencidi or patience ~ tells the story
here. Something is wrong with that one