The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1892-07-16
Special cor. of the New DonrSros.

Francisco. and the interest is inten-
sified rather than lessened when they
encounter the stories ahoat of the
dangers attending a visit within its
precincts. One is told that it is un-
safe to go into the Chinese quarter
unproyided with guide. This guide
may be either a policeman or one of
the yellow faced Mongolians. The
latter is better, for many doors close
in the face of a blue coated officer,
and the people are scarcely seen as
they are.
One does not realize the need of a
guide so long as he stays in the
streets, or goes into the Joss Houses
or brilliantly lighted stores, but
when he enters lodging house, and
loses himself in the narrow, dark.
winding passages, he understands
the necessity. Chinatown is not
large only two blocks by eight, and
in the very heart of San Francisco,
but 10000 Chinaman are congrega-
ted there, and they swarm over each
other like ants in hill.
1t is a section of bloody fights and
murders; among these people being
at least one organized band of as
sassins, known as Highbinders, whose
exploits yield nothing to those of
the Malta.
The meek John of the East or of
our fancy does not exist in China
town. He is there a most ferocious
and reckless fighter, an Indifferent
fatalist, and throughout the night,
when you meet him sauntering forth
for his promenade, his game of dice,
or his opium bowl, you will see his
right hand always resting in his
pocket, where sometimes a pistol, but
usually knife is ready for service.
1t was about ten o'clock on one
foggy night that | started with a
party of ten to follow a guide, whose
residence of thirty five years in San
Francisco made him acquainted
thoroughly with the ms and outs of
Chinatown He wore citizens clothes
and dirty hat, and we thought we
had secured an Americanized Orien
tai, until he lifted his hat and dis
closed a glossy pig tail coiled about
his head.
The objective point of every guide
is first Joss House, and these exist
in about the same proportion as
do the churches of a christian city,
and show the same desire on the
part of the worshipers to have them
places of beauty and splendor. There
is little effort expended in the ex-
terror, but within, the wood work is
massive, carved with the grotesque
faces of their deities, with coiling
snakes and garlands of flowers, and
the dark, rich polish it takes is
beautiful. At one end is always the
shrine of their great god, before
which long taper is kept contin-
tinually burning. There are hand
some roses, and costly silken cur
tains about the shrine, the sacred
peacock plumes over it, and bowl
for the lifts of those who would
make burnt offerings to the deity.
These offerings are usually tapers of
sandal wood, and they are kept SO
constantly burning that the air is
heavy with the spicy odor. There
are no rows of seats as in Christian
Temple, yet one would not mistake
the costly hangings, the exquisite
carvings and vases, the wrought
bronze lamps and smoking incense
as belonging elsewhere than in a
place of worship.
1t does not seem possible that any
one could speak as imperfect English
after thirty five years contact with
it, but our guide told us many unin-
telligible legends in a sing song tone,
which we would have gladly under.
stood, but could only catch the mean
ing here and there. A man of any
other nationality, after so long resi-
dence here, would have been too
thoroughly Americanized for his
former country to be recognizable,
but the Chinaman remains China
man forever.
From the Joss House to an arts
tocratic restaurant we journeyed
close at the heels of our guide, dodg-
ing in and out among the swarming
slant-eyed Celestials who thronged
not only sidewalks but streets. The
restaurant was windowless, as are all
the dwellings in Chinatown. Stand
ing about the walls were heavy,
black chairs, beautifully inlaid, ex-
quisite to look upon, but with com
fort falling far short of their appear
ance
Indeed, the wise Chinaman does
not indulge in these when he seeks
luxurious repose. On two sides of
the room are dais-like alcoves. coy
cred sometimes with mating, again
with rugs, and furnished with two
hard.pillows for the use of the opium
smokers, for John does not need to
seek a secluded nook when he takes
his evening smoke. The openness
with which provision is made for this
in every restaurant, barber shop and
gambling den is matter of surprise
TO stranger eyes.
There were dainty dishes fitted
with preserved ginger and other con
fections on the heavy, polished tables,
and to party of nicely dressed |
Chinese men and women who were
just sitting down for refreshments,
was brought, first, covered cups of |
tea, fragrant as only Chinaman
can make it, and miniature china |
soup ladies which we were told were
to be used in the following course
Our curiosity was great but unsatis
fled as to what the next course con
sisted of, however, we were told the |
entertainment was costing the aris-
tocratic Celestials fifteen dollars
plate, and we went away with at
least two new ideas, or with the old
ones ahandoned-one that there are
no women in Chinatown, and the
other that the Chinese are limited 10
chop sticks as eating implements
There is little remarkable about
q Chinese theater, which is usually
owned and managed By an American.
We gained admission only because
there was no play in progress, at
such times the building being sacred
TO Cinnamon. There is a senarate