davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

road conditions and restrictions. oply, thoss
whose esnecial task il Is can know. SertousaA
mo! %oa % % ! and pq Pns !'oSseks 'si L He 4 S vsS4 10;
t ny %,}s i n; n %s ss s 1s% = aT |?ss s' sys., o sI1s ssRs, "a
board are qaiskly emptied and, replaced 81
roast mS,t, earSsd RI IN 'G the EitcS Ss pt to ssy 7.
nssdlesH delay ", Two yssetsoles besides !" ddsaS 9Ess.
e%ssi ann q q very ieTgt w Hsfssdt o. m pS or ri nus srea@
Inv al6out . O'clock some isIItlaht rsieetion:
sandwich. is provided.
m dGr a n simnPs g., 2 'ia 'hs s Sisssa are e0 giifmnts,
i mS' arp 10 t 1i",si and scaIISg fences are an md
i S1S. S.9 & ~ Su assi ws5 ;,it 81 Fb. asi 'S.r and srs s 4.
tHi""j""s' t. ,ho neishti9rinF, farms. TIE evening
games. At about "a ths long days exercise
In the open air induces a general, feeling OF
Hr"wSiness and g moyement is II ma aSa to retire re-.
quires Tat all liGNIs shall ie out ut 10 o'clock;
,Inothsr d nnis sni%!nI d 1 ryst q qSsss IT t6 .,
committee whose connection with the temules
inrlinn> them TO reform, Judaism. reeognizs
t aay % vi. Of t IL s %raR fo rs satD aah Mariana r.st ana S oSs
selvancc. The girls who are atti'iatea win
thu ciunt AID, si-t"rhonds contacted with re
eyiperi""' snt made =, yenr aso at Sca Ciiff. Long
Island. mere On tha sma capital OF $500 1t
WAS demonstrated thai such u house could \
week Tor hoard. while il leave, no margin f
Ir'lt, can hc, made 70 cover the expense
~. visions aud iurl. The uroI"ct Is scarce
known outs de the clubs. hut the commit
W., hupo the per'nanont establishment OF
lolse 1T heart are. desi;i"is to extend
pnn 0'its of II vacation TO all working 81
WEcthor m"mb"rs OF club, 1r not. There
nor ABOUT seventeen houses supported
Christian working glris. TINS one ~ Bedfo
Station /, tho HIS; 10 recugHtze. the needs !
jewish girls, aryt since its ope.ning the hoS,'
income mas been steady and shows an euooa'
aging increase upon last years report
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

inches rounded OF Ia such a war that though
the skirt does not touch NE door II has the
appearance OF. so doing. As mps Tor
calling gowns aud carriage Gowns sweep TO
the length Of forty-four, inches ID, the back.
waiking In front. Dinner. and reception
gowns may 30 longer till. but for BALL: II {ou
are fond OF. the may dance, the short skirt-is
You may be willing TO bear. the inconvenience
Of the long skirt, which adds to -FOUR inches II
stout, and to your grace X you. are toll, BUTT
Ia scarcely courteous to infiict tho nuisance
upon all the other dancers In the room.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
Oh. misc. or nn,u,y rash,on.

There is q marked disposition for fine thin
materials in lingerie simply decorated. anG
the pieces requisite to the complete toilet have
been reduced to tho smallest possible num-
bsr. What n%ighigowns lose In breadth they
have gained in frillings. which are OF most OK
q~uisitely fine materials put ON like eapes across
tho shoulders, narrowing 10 a point at tho
waist line; and for variety in effect the
depend upon tho finish of those frillinss. some
Of which are deeply yandyked in n%eedlework
rufios Of lace. aud others either huttonholcd
or rolled and Whipped In color. For day wear
beneath the tightly n,tleh princess gown, the
the lit oil her gowns wears a com b~ination gar
ment of silk Webbing. over this . c~heInise OF
cut exactly like her gown. only low In the neck
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
Tlr. shlmmer,nr Beauty OF Silks.

In silks there is the whole family Of bengal.
ines. including those brocaded with color. the
plain heavily eolored varieties. and the So
called wool bongalines." which will be
largely used for street gowns. There are Louis
XVI. silks of white with lowered stripes. sepa-
rated by bars Of rose. yellow. or green: Pom
padour silks. with huge flower sprays in the
and m ering patterns In most marvellously
close color harmonies: velvet striped silks In
but heavier, brocaled in small blossoms or
dots OF color. and the popular striped motres,
all are found among the new materials and will
be characteristic Of the coming mode.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
WITH Tue POOR.
A London Woman's Practical Experienced In
n SWentrr's Den.

A London Woman's Practical Experienced In
n Swentrr's Den.
Miss Beatrice Potter. who became Mrs. sgd.
noy Wobb L few days ago. is said to know
more aGoutthe real poor Of London than any
other woman In England. She was the only
woman called as a witness before the Select
Committee OF the House OF Lords. which sat
to inquire ipto the sweating system. and her
suggestions were embodied In the report
When o young girl she travelled as privnte seq
rotary with her father. tho late Richard Potter.
during his tour in Canada and tho United
States. On her return to England she mado tho
acquaintance OF Herbert spencer and became
his devoted pupil and friend. IN those years
hor whole mind was wrapped up in philosoph-
lieved that sho would become known as one OF
London.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
JEHISH GIRLS IN THE COUNTRK
How They Live Mt the Vacation Houss W
in Westche ester County. o.


Near Bedford Station. Westminster county.
about nifty miles from New York. stands On
old-fashioned farmhouse. with wide piazzss
and hospltable open doors. This relic OF farm
life has since July l boon converted into . W
cation house for Jewish working girls. aud.
with its bright coat Of paint, seems to have en-.
tered upon, u new phase 10 Its existence. An
extensive lawn surrounds the house on Gil
sides. and. large shade trees screen the piaz-
zas from the hot rays OF the sun. .HanmookS
and swings are suspended rom the boughs,
and comfortable rockers and %armchairs dot
the porches. Altogether the house, with its
daiuSily curtained windows, has q particularly
cool and Inviting aspect from the road.
The interior of the house Is simply and
tastefullY furnished in oak. The floors Of the
halls, the stairs. and dormitories, arc stained
to a deep brown and Vanished. Here and
there a bright rug or strip OF carpet adds an
extra touch of LONELINESS and comfort To
the right Of the hall upon, entering is the par.
lo,r, u sIuare room with French windows.
the fragrance OF new hay to mingls With
that OF Punches OF wild flowers on the mantel
A piano. some shelves Of books. plenty Of
lounges and easy chairs. pictures and fans
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

self BY Transforming tho greatest Of lily.
honor: y the way. bernhardt acespts cry
Paris with her little grandson on her knee,
apparently more proud Of her new distinction
than OF any of the honors. lavished upon her by
two worlds- One Of our New York artists. TOO.
had the rare good fortune. to belong to. this
now, famous class OF J~ulians, Miss Helen
Phelps. WHOSE remintseences 81 the i~ll.fated
charming. Miss Phelps IL a New England
girl, which makes It. perhars- the more re-
from tbs. nude. and. she ~ now In France
painting. from the undraped model ip, a retired
corner OF q beautiful old garden. In Fontenay-
aux-Roses. under the criticism OF Collin.
Salamanca has not been unmindhul Of the
interests Of m for many years ago an
early Queen conferred unon the dam sells of
some Of its principal families the right to en-
noble with themselves whomevsr they might
marry. The university, too, used to endow
and there were women OF powerful Intellect
who rose to the rank OF Its professors. Ono Of
these, Esatriz aalinde' tsoame govssyness to
m figure, too. In The lists Of holders Of
scholarships In tho old, College Of San SALIVA
dor. from which II would appear, that Spanish
senoritas are not pernetuglly draped in CO.
Quettish mantillas and dancing to castanets.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
TO CHOOSE A GOOD wife
Find the Girl Who Knows How to
Travel Comfortably.
AUTUMNS STYLES DISPLAY
Coats Fur-trimmed, Red Gowns and
Jackets, Hunters Green.

TIE 0~ssA Prix Races Set the Earle MsAes
-Trai.ed skirts Are Not for Street wear
-FssAioA Talk 81 Cay Buttons. Co.'S
tysstisr Sleeves, che Curves OF Msd,sh
oswss. tie Daiaty Laced Chs.ise. shi~.
nsrins silks. saa C1soPatrs Tlnts-sarah
, B~erhsrArs Herodias Clonk-A Londen
LaSy's Experience IN . swsatsr's Dea-
Mss. Observation-Disclosures lnfor-
aasisa French Autumn Gowns aAA
Dresses rsr Little Naias-Caprieioss
Fs.Aiou's Very Latest Fantasies.
How unfortunate II is that all betrothed
jevars cannot follow the precedent established
b. one engaged pair In England Of taking tho
wedding journey before the ceremony instead
Of afterwsrd. for human nature has the right
Of way In oil the routes by land and sea. mani.
Testing itself with most Ingenious frankness
IN every way. and you are better acquainted
with Q person after you've travelled In his
company . day than you can possibly bo sftor
. year Of ordinary social inter course. or
course. 1t might lower the marriage record
some. - this particular couple referred
10 decided that they would exchange
engagement rinRs In less than q
week. Her mamma took her back
homo and bis papa went on to Monte Carlo
with MIN 70 n0lp MIN Iorget MS great olS0p-
pointment. Still. II I were q man. which.
thanks be to the god Of destiny. I'm not, for it
must be horribly tlresome to be eternally
picking up fans and handkerchief, getting
cups OF tea and ginsses OF water in most In
convenient places. looking after baggage and
umbrellas. helping people In and out, giving
up one's seat. answering questions. and al
ways holding SONS on"'s head on your Shout
dsr-but II I were I'd like to select my BRIDE
to-be in q railway car. Only about one
woman In a hundred knows how to travel. aud
you con count on her making o good wife
every time. She doesn't lace herself into q
tight gown. which dust will soil and water will
spot, or button her feet in new boots two sizes
too small. or torture. her poor head with a
hobby stir hat In which she cannot lean bpck
ticket in the bottom of the biggest bag up in
the rack. lose her chock. ask sixty questions
to the minute. or the same question six times
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

Now that we have mastered the complicated
system OF Lidden and mysterious dress fas-
Jennings. and learned to perform the contor-
tons incidentto hooking our draperias under
the arms and down the back. we are confronted
with the cheerful mandate that buttons are
tons, as they. arr. knobs of gold, silver. and
pearl. painted porcelain set In old paste rims,
and turquoise mounted In silver hligree like
nIit OF June sky set in mist. Four or i've
sizes aud sometimes. two. or three dozens OF
buttons are needed for the same gown. and
when tho bill comes In,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
the SEASONS NODES ~ PARIS
Are EstSbilshc ed by the Costumes Dt-p'syee
At the Grand r.ix Faces.

~ me 0tWuO TVIh ~
II may not be generally known that the iash-
ions Of the Grand Priv. tho great race ut Paris
establish the mode for tho costumes. ahd' IN
decd. influence the styles for the entire year.
and that tho great artists and couturiers'
Worth. Ducet, and their cult, arc In az great
q fever Of suspense regarding tho favor which
OF these ,geniuses has prepared, as 40 me
owners Of the famous atceds wl'ci, 9omne.e
not eyon in the days oE the beautiful Eughnio
and her court, have tho toilets surpassed IN
beauty and richness Of effect those worn IN
this Year Of grace 1892. Still. onc tlrr,s nwhy,
from the descriptions Of .lesp EXPRESSIONS OF
the statute OF style with tho oistoulagins
conviction that tho. occupation OF mo mono
DO trusted with gowns whose elegance, do
ponds upon tho perfection CT their simplicity.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
o THE SWEEPING OF SIDEWALK.
Worth ana Sis Disciples sensibIy Conssnn
the Loug skirt.

Tn battle royal which RACES lust now In our
modish world is the TO be or not to be Of the
trained skirt Worth and his disciples coI-
denim the long skirt. and declare 1t to he al
ready bad form for street wear. But women
are loath to curtaii their sweeping gowns. we'll
knowing that in the sioping broadths there 10
Infinite grace and dignity difficult Of attain
mont in the more practi,al short skirts.
The most satisfactory solution Of the equ8-
to choose for street wear Q skirt gracefully
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
Sarah Bcrnhnrdv. ueroa,n. Cloak,

Nine. Befnhartt Is having some most Won
derful creations fashioned by French artists
Tor her new character Hepodids. The most
remarkable Of these Is a cloak Of huge dlmen-
sions, being quite twelve feet square, OF q sort
ot Greenish-blue silk embroidered with
strange Eastern flowers of great sizs glowing
WITH bnrbaric tints Of blue and green. salmon
nnd yellow, and blazing with Jewels in the
'.iot[ % each 4 ower, The elonk Is lined viii!
q yard deep, and hung by a paintei and
one hin.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

laces.andthough they arcnot a all close httl9S,
still they follow gracefully, the lines ~ the
brown and softening to cream, with n thread
Of gold to ~outlin. every iiow"r; spray. AMI icht
blue. or may be OF green or violet velvet. with d
fall OF deeply pointed. finely Ineshed. and very
creamy lace. The, vest. also OF ne velvet. II
gracefully outlined with lace. when meets ana
falls in a deep ilounce below the belt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

green stripe. and headed with anal. green
stripe. Tho vest Is o fgreen satin. with double
friils narrowing toward the waist. whore a
wsisttand Of green satin finishes the bodice.
%rosettes OF velvet. finish the sleeves. and tho
broad Dlrectoire rcvers are also OF velvet the
modes are eli strongly influenced by Directoirs
ideas. and the broad reyer is n conspicuous
feature Of both house and street gowns. somc-
toilet, or on dinner gowns Of old brocads as the
only decoration.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

test Of loyalty to fashions caprices has beeA
endured with q meekness worthy OF q better
cause. for in truth the shapeless garment 10
only saved from the ridiculous By an exoui-
site smartnsss OF cut for driving or morning
wear and By q richness Of material and sump-
tuousness Of decoration and lining for more
elegant use. Certain grace has been added
to It's outlines. too. In its evolution from
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
Gowns with Contrasting Sleeves.

characteristic note Of fall fashions 10 the
revival OF the sleove dissimilar For deoollete
toilets OF light thin materials the sleeve Ia Of
velvet, in bright rich colors and made In bal
loon shape; With a cream gown the sleeve Ia
oi coral velvet; with pale blue will be worn q
sleeve OF mauve velvet: with stra " color gar
net or golden brown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

all Of these tints in cr6pon or soft
silk. and ia made with q plain skirt
trimmed around with three rows Of velvet
ribbon laid on in a wavy sort Of pattern q little
way above the edge. This skirt is shirred
about three times at the top with an upstand-
ing rufie fitted over a tight ~corselet decorated
with the velvet to match the skirt. To this
~corselet. to Is shrred the bodice. with n rufie
standing w close about. the mock. The sleeves
are finished In the usual wal. with outstanding
pufYs gathered in q rufie on the lower edge.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
RIvALLING THE CHANGING LEAVES

Csne Fall That's. Deep Red for nioudss aua
Warmer Hass for Brunsttcs.
Red-warm. glowing, glorious red has evera
revival with the coming Of autumn days. 1T 10
worn In dark shades. rich and deep In tone. By
the fairsst Of blondes. and in daringly defiant
hrightne ss this. the robel's W color. Is chosen
as q framing for the piauant charms OF bru-
motto beauties, and in all the softer shades Of
rose and crimson the brown-haired. fair.
skinned women. whom the Germans call brown
blondes. find their most becoming color. The
pretty. simple little house dress Of the ilustra-
ton 10 equally effective In any or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
TIE "NAQhA BACK" COAT

II van stin be- Oern, but changes will BIO
MADE :. the Cut and the Clo'h.
The agony Of the whole back" coat prom
isss TO be prolonged at least through the early
autumn. To the woman with a shapely figure
II has been. throughout Its reign. q mortinca.
tion OF the flesh, o humiliation OF spirit;
though for the woman without slenderness
It possessed . malicious sort Of comfort II she
aid not sttsmvt to wear It hsFssit stu this
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
The Modish Gown Should Widen at the
Shoulders and Gn her at the Illps.

Among the general rules to be observed By
those who aspire to stylish elegance Of ap-
pearance. the first and most important ia that
all effort must tend to widening the shoulders
BY means Of largo. full sleeves, and lace
trainings over the shoulders and across the
breast; and tho sccond Is that equally strenu.
ous effort must be brought to hear to do away
win all protuberancas about the hips by
means OF most carefully. tilted princess
gowns worn oyer equally wcll-shaped corsets
and ENTERTAINMENTS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
PATROL JACKETS OF HUNTERS GREEN

Fer Country Wsas with Tartan Flaids,
Dusing tho shooting Senson.
The patrol Jacket promises TO b to the
fall gown h the Eton and Harrow coats
have been to summer frocks. 1t Is particular
" favored for suits Of tartan plaid. which will
be among tho favorites for country wear dur
ing the shooting season. the jacket In such o
case reproducing tho strongest color in the
plaid. 1t may be worn over the fashionable
Tattersall cloth vest or with the ubiquitous
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

and without sleevsa but with the same araoe.
ful sweep Of skirt trimmed about the edge
with numerous fril'ings Of lace and silk. The
me lace drawn UP on ribbons.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

blouse Of silk or wool. The garment to which
We are indebted for the illustration is of hunt-
er's green cheviot SERGE. braided in the regu-
lar patrol Jacket pattern with black and lined
with green and red shot silk.
Speaking Of jackets recalls the fact that
the luxurious tea gown Is being supplanted
in favor. for the. time being ny the equal.
tea Jacket for all occasions exc pit the easeful
retirement Of ones own private apartment,
when life without a tea gown proper Is not at
all worth living. Those tea Jackets which are
recommended to tho notice OF pretty women as
most becoming md charming. and easily made
season, ara usually mado Of rich old brocade
and velvet, trimmed with fine and beautiful
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
Autumn Serge IN CIeopu,ra That's.

French camel's hair and English storm serge
will enjoy great popularity during the fall and
winter. and will appear in swallow blue with
silver tints. In rich dark Russian blue. In the
browns. in golden. dead leuf. mahogany. and
JacQueminot petals.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
At THE HEAD OF 4 MOVEMENT

Ans. ChsiIga.Loevy. tho PresiAept o. the
nternationa Union OF W0men.
Tho woman's movement is making great
strides in modern France. Notwithstanding
that . great deal Of rldioule Is cast upon 1t.
Nine. Cheliga- Loevy. although not a French
woman BY birth. started the present move
ment. and she works INCREASINGLY to amelio-
rate the lot Of her noorer sisters under the OF.
listing laws and regulations. She Is tho Presi-
dent Of the International Union of Women.
which has its headquarters In Paris. She lives
with her husband. who is an artist. In a fiat in
the older quarter Of Paris
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

. spring to a autumn style. By its
extended length and soitening effect Of fur
borders. An illustration OF the mode in it's
coming phase Is shown In pnlest lawn color.
with Its bell shaped sleeves edged with sable.
and q border OF sable about tho collar and
down the front Of tho coat Agraceful decora-
ton OF elaborate braidinE in shades Of brown
finishes the coat. which is lined with warm.
golden brown satin. extending we'll down
toward the bottom OF the coat A striking
manipulation Of the mode. one which
promises to be exceedingly popular with
young ladies. 10 the so-called Henry VIII.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04
DRESSES FOR LITTLE MAIDS.
LiRen and Fou'ard In Bleachea and Pale
Blue Shades.

Linen and foulard form the most serviceable
As we'll u most becoming dresses for little girls
between six and tea years. A dress OF this
linen In the ecru tint Of tho unblsached ma
terial has u band Of very open embroidery In
the same shade about the bottom. threaded IN
and out with sky-blue ribbons. The tight. 1T
ting sleeves are Of the same material and the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

narrow. low-necked yoke too. is Of the lace.
isled with ~ro,ettss on the left shoulder. Tho
other little dress is OF ioulard. in q pale shade
and l,ands ut the wrist Of white gallon. .embroi-
dsred in silver. Double. finely plated rufles.
one OF white and one OF blue. finish tho sleeves
at the top.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

coat 1t appears in all the shades Of
green and brown. which colors are to be
among the coming favorites. and is ~particu-
larry pleasing in o rich shade Of cinnamon
brown corduroy cloth. with sleeves Of dark
brown velvet and q trimming consisting Of a
band Of velvet finished on each edge with q
border Of mink fur. Between tho broad revers.
eIten ding across the back In the. form Of q
round collar and rolling down the front below
the waist. line. is q rich and cleaning front Of
iewelled galore. Our ole. friend: the Russian
blouse coat. greets us again in il slightly varied
guise. with extended SKIRTS and furry
i%stsation /. Of f0hh. unter's green clot tShe soft
and, satlny IN anish. the full plated folds at
OLD. silver in antique pattern, and the deep
cuffs and collar made OF black fur. The one
coat is a slender waist, not corset made. and
Of goddess-like propnrtlons. particularly In re-
gard to height. What the dumpy woman. the
stout woman. or even the petite woman Is. to
wear for protection from autumr's searching
chill is still involved in the mists of conjecture.
Perhaps she will be- obliged to wrap herself in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

acquaintance Of sydney Webb. a political writ
or and Socialist. and they are now going to
work together among the toilers.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-09-04

ssthsrs srs always changes Of climate and
tetIet. and this ulster. q. 4 is new this fall.
Eili have iost the cape which has been aanpnt.
Istinsa1lsshhed by Us buttons, two; fuI rows y q
pockets IN which to stow away the tickets
Which other women lose. the handkerchiefs
Ehieh other women can never find. The snug
little hat q soft ,telt has a launty wing on one
nsteh TIE coat: loose and comfortable 10 1T.
by and ~ she will throw this, ulster, hack
over her chair And you will, SEQ that It's lining
u OF glossy SILK. In u rich golden brown or
ef1mson shade. and that. beneath it she wears
= eansrs hair gown Of light weight and In a
gould laugh. a all the dust and dirt that work
SoEns ;v,t AND Sri this sonn has one q Tho new
the other foE the pocket hole. and is just long
enough, to clear the ground. Tie tailor basque
Of the. bodice Is rounded or in front over a
vest Of suede. ohamois color. crossed with d..
a9onal bands OF brown braid.
sie bodies closes with a .trap across the
q . doves jacket OF feathers. You can trust
that. this woman's toilet and temper will TIL
Umph over all the discomforts Of travel and
some out unrufaed at the end OF tho journey.