Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1892-03-20

a
the far East. The tea gown is only an
adaptation Of classic styles TO modern uses
and few women are nsw willing to be with
out this graceful and pretty attiring.
The girdle is traced to Persia, land
that delights IN gay csiors, bright metals
and sparkling gems, and is to be worn dur
ing the coming season A belt or girdle is
always designed 70 hold something, and no
one with any idea Of fitness viii wear one
with tight bodice It may have all the
beauty and elegance that gems and precious
metals can bestow, but it must also convey
! an idea OF the useful in order to be appro-
| pirate. Many Of the belts are linked silver,
others are of seal, alligator or calf, and
when desired may be of the dress material.
Such are usually lined and bound with
leather and have leather buckles. Much
taste as well as cost IS shown in the metal
buckles, Fcut steel, chased or begemmed
silver being popular.
Among loose-fowirg gowns the house
dress is hostess delight. When she comes
to meet her guest, if arrayed in one of
these charming creations, not only does she
feel at ease but S he also imparts to others
feeling of welcome. Every woman knows
that dress has much to do with feeling, and
when appropriate aids to repose of manner,
| calm dignity and to the maintenance of
equilibrium of spirit. A late and graceful
model is of some figured stuff lined with
soft material and having single bias seam
in the middle Of the back. with cores in
| front to secure a perfect fit on the hips.
| The breadths facing the back are also more
bias than customary and there are opposing
pleats which fall freely and make up the
! pointed train. Around the bottom of the
skirt is pleated silk ruche with raveled
edges. The corsage passes under the skirt
and hooks at the back invisibly. It is Or
namented with large lace jabot and broad
| ribbons, which pass under the arms
and tie between the shoulders,
with long straight ends. At the back
the corsage consists of two folds, termi-
mating in a point at the bow and displaying
q triangle of the material There are no
side pieces except in the lining; in the front
the material reaches quite to the side with
out a seam, and to garniture this plain front
there is deep corselet of the ribbon and
lace. This corselet with the exception of
one width of the ribbon, extends only TO
the side seam. The single width of ribbon
hooks on the opposite side and is held in
place by fancy pins. The straight collar is
composed of the ribbon. The sleeves are
very full at the top and narrow gradually
down to the wrist
Very elegant, even exquisite, is a tea
gown proper, It is made of pale crushed
strawberry silk en- train. Over the front
of the garment falls q loose drapery of
white point de Paris lace, the pattern being
outlined with fine pale blue silk thread.
At the neck of the dress is a bow of pale
blue ribbon, and the lace drapery is caught
in two places by bows of blue ribbon. The
under part of the sleeve is crushed straw
berry silk with cap of pale blue silk
edged with founcss of the lace, which give
the Partisan touch to this lovely creation.
For common mortals' daily needs, wrappers
are indispensable, and they are made of
white crossbar trimmed with Hamburg, Of
lawn, of calico, percale and light flannel.
Some are made with round shirred yokes,
the 'old-fashioned serpentine braid being
run on the shirrs. Others have big sailor
collars, in color contrasting with the gown.
These are the gowns that need the girdle
and the zone unbound is now, as in the days
of ancient Greece, a woman's shame.
The jacket continues to play an important
part in the costume Jacket suits, that is
gown with jacket or coat, will be much
worn during the spring Many of these
gowns are trained. The jackets usually
form the bodice of the gown, opening in
front ever silk blouse, velvet corselet, or
vest. The moro expensive suits have a
separate bouice for the gown, the dress be-
ing complete without the jacket, which is
intended only for the street. The term
jacket, as used with these suits, indicates
coat of moderate length cut even all around
and fitted loosely though shaped to the
figure.
Turnover collars are the rule for such
jackets. 1t is to be noted that the turn
over collar is more seen this spring than
for long time, and is largely excluding
the high collar Sometimes the coat is cut
with a modified blazer front. When the |
skirts are short any of these costumes will |
be uncommonly useful for shopping and |
travelling. Elaborate gowns have the |
mikado jacket open in the back and show |
other varieties of the waist-line jackets, |
the Figaro, the Elton, etc Ribbon is run |
down the back of the bodice where the |
mikado is slashed, and falls below the belt |
in two short loops. Blind folds of silk are
being used as a skirt trimming, colored |
silk on challie and similar goods, the folds |
running around the bottom near the edge. |
Among the accessories to a woman's toll
cite, the dressing of the neck is of imror |
lance, and since the high collar is giving
place to the rundown, something that can
be worn at will is very convenient.
a pretty collar to be worn with any dress |
consists of folds of surah, rose and white,
in three soft bands around the neck, the |
rose folds being on the outer edges. The |
collar is pinched down in a little point at |
the top in front to make it more becoming, |
and is closed in the back with three little |
bows of surah, one above the other. An !