New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-12-04


and snnburnt. with big, ragged, fair mustache
and brown eyes He goes barefoot. wears rather
see,ly trousers, "a red and black checked
flannel shirt, and an unusual felt hat. lie
j. quite ready 70 walk up and down
and over and across all Italy in that
COSTUME including the capital cities II nee
e,,ary H.. Is Il particularly cool hand like many
thin men lie is wolllshy hungry, and speaks, III t"'
Sorrentinr dialect, quaint and not uhpoe'ical
language of his own. On III" morning Ill question
he mounted upon the pack sadd" which bore our
effect. contained in my white canvas sea-oas'
into which had stuffed an assortment OF Hammer
shirts Jerseys aud guernsrys calculated 10 la''
any Temperature or climate. some of my tray
elinp friends had told me- that | should mi IL
very cold even in the end Of June whereas Others
had Predicted pleasant temperature. ~ II
turned ONT At one point IN oar journey the neat
was almost intolrrablr. and il was never NOR" tah
inst cool even at night. From Damante "" fol-
lowed monotOnous line Of sandy beach ponGh'u
mn bv the railway works ~ far H. the village OF
H..ivr.lcrr Thence a new but yet am' u I'M
n,el carriage road asccnds rapidly TO III" summit
Of lofty mountain pas. from which IN" M'di"r-
r,ucan is ,,ill visible ON the left IN" peak ot
Hnlvrdrrr called Mount Mont"a in mars ana
charts sir,-> itS sharp outlin" into ia" blue sky
ON the riJlt tlr hills undulat" at high l"V"l,
hnt one lose. sight of them almost Immediately
upnu cutcrin. the deep and prcciplton- gorg" winch
l"n,ls down 10 81. Agata HI EsaTo rag1'" NIlla9'
king in the valley a. in the palm ol -lal'
hand Half n mile before reaching tins place we
came upon the village fountain clos" by me ro'u'
under magnificent ovcrhangng chestnut tres. We
drank al the icccod water from an "arth'n IAN
cell, carried by daIk. thin. silent GIRL who re-
fused TO take a sou for her trolblc. and who's"
mn,l.r meeting ns az the end oi the bridge.
.coLl.d II. gooI-naturrdly for wishing to pay TOR
wafer IN Calabia" l'y short cnt through
chestnut woods. in the midst Of which stopped
hy a stream ~ lunch on hard tack and cheese. we
reached san SOst The heat Wa intense, ana we
suffered considerably a. We camsHr"d mp IN" steep
and stony paths IN foot in the fnll blaz" of IA"
afternoon June san "1utio pa~-a,' observed
Cnptnin Luiri. when | asked II the rough path did
not ,.orch his bar. feet By and by "" reached
ile high yillag. OF Acqra Fomo-a. AMI the water
WAS indeed beautiful 10 49,, and refreshing &"
drink By the fountain number oi oddly
dressed p,a,aut women were washing clothes.
coolinL wooden barrels and lne them, Will"
claiicring loudly in dialect perfectly lnrompr'-
l.n.iilc ~ u. three travellers. This villa" ana
several near IL are called Albanc>" by the Gala
brian- and Us the inhabitants themselves Their
rrliei.m j. Grcr.; Roman Catholic. but tD"ir ser
vices nrr held IN tie. Greek tongue. Tia" lln9nas"
however. Is not Hellenic, and ~ as"ertain"d by
actual experiment that II does not belong 20 any
81 tl" SlaV dialects and A. il j. not Turkish, !
lar. say 'ha, il really may b" Albanian. Of which
| know nothing. The u,,mcu unlike other Italians
i'm pluc,- vhrrn costume j. still i'm IN" fashion,
wear no bodice and thrir r." cloth skirts are sup
ported hy red hrac'- which cross AT the back
over their coar>.. whit" shirts. They wear short
-.dr cur- in front. aud seem 70 divide ia" HAIR at
the back in THREE coils. III" niddl" one of which
is tied mp in . cotton bay into what looks Ike a
perfectly hard bali.
From this place an easy road with q lovely view
over the Gulf Of 1aranto-,om" eighteen miles
distant leads 70 the town of LungrO, also inhab-
tied entirely by Alhauans ! must not omit g.
say that the,.. people all speak Italian, and much
more int"lligibly and correctly than then Gala
brian ncghbors. 1t is not always easy 10 ind
lodeiny i'm these wild mountain towns. aud we
Ncr. ~ hr,' offered three beds ont of seven IN
large room where four Tararai had ar,n " taken
up their quarters We declined accommo-
dafions with .nthusiaSm and after some
search got blk room 10 ourselves with
"A balcony overlooking the uudulatIng country
toward the s..a Our supper consisted of maca-
roui with sauce Of salt sprats. garlic and oil,
followed hy fried eggs and goats chess. The
win" was strong. drinkshr, and Of thc color
known In Italy rs Ccra>oo-tha' i, neither red
nor white The Albanian hostess. however, pro
dur"d soma perfectly ccau linen, and We slept III"
sleep OF the mbittrn iust after on journey of
fourteen hours and a half Soon after 1 in tie
morning n bulcr reused the SLEEPING population
10 their work in the salt mine. After swallowing
n cup Of blood-cnrdliug co1~' we followed the
miners down the hill distance Of "A mile and q
l,lf q, 4 /, ere tpI
over the mouth Of the pit on the slope OF Il low
liocl;. Here the black and yellow Italian rev
emu" ollicll awaited in the prid" Of his STRENGTH
and of his questionable firearms. but "A short IN
tcrvcw with very civil manager in private
Office snilCed 10 obtain for ms the ncccsrary per
mission. An ancient, bald-Ecad"d, ionhl"d
up Albanian, who told rs lee had worked
in the mine since 1885,, was drput"d
with lantern TO show ~ the way, and We
began the descent. TO those who have gon" down
into mines by stairs there would not be. perhaps,
anything extraordinary in climbing down and
climbing mp again over 900 steps l. however,
was satisfied with the level reached by the jj2
when | counted The descent especially at
irst is very steep. through hard in
which srcaks and humps of dirty salt are every
where visible. Soon the salt incrensc2 in
quantity and improves in quality. and old dis
used galleries yawn To the right and left ms one
goes by. At last In" crystals get the upper hand
altogether, as one reaches the beginning Of the
modern works Spacious passages, cnt perfectly
square, lad from the open space" at the foot
of the Stairs 10 large halls. and one comes
suddenly upon the miners, the trucks, and tho
hubbub of the underground quarry There arc
non, Of the marvcs to he seen which arc
dcsttibcd as existing in In" mines of Berch-
tcsladrn aud Sal2burg. There are no modern
appliances and the whole number of men All
work does not, according to my informant,
exceed $50. The miners. who are rugged fore
and aft with two towels for clothes, work with
piciaXes and in some places by blasting in
which they rough hand-drill mounted in
wooden frame. The salt il carried to the
surface, distance of 1903 metres at present. by