Southwest-sentinel. [volume] (Silver City, N.M.) 1883-189?, 1892-12-13

"a NAAN AAA1N NAAAAN ~ NhAaANA ~ WIZ NAAh INV
n half Of strong silesia or drilling for waist
lining This should be cut into the form
shown b. the diagram, but the darts should
not be cut until it is fitted. To get the
proper dimensions put the material doubled
~lengthwise, on IA table, and having the dia
gram before o measure the length Of the
waist from the neck 10 the bottom. Max
dots at these places along the doubled sci
wage. Measure the length from shoulder
TO waist and the distance from the straight
line from shoulder TO front. keeping the
same distance TO bottom; then mark the
darts. which must vary according to the
figure Of the person. a very stout they
must be about two inUhes across at the
waist line; II slender, one to one and a half,
and a reference to the diagram will show
the form, The back and side body pieces
are TO be measured from top TO waist line.
When the lining Is cut, allowing at least
three inches margin beyond the seam, It
should be basted and tried on, the seams
being left on the outside. The filter should
then take in" the seams and pin them
until the whole lining fits perfectly, snug
in all parts, but binding In none.
When the model waist lining has been
thus fitted to the figure, take it of and
iron IL, so that the pins will make marks
aAAAA NAN INEN " q NAk hNNAAAn nAAhAAAA kbs
Then the lining should he rebasted, fol-
lowing the line Of the pins on the outside
Of them, and the pins then pulled out
Try the lining on again, right side out.
When the fit is perfect the lining should
be roned again, the seams being laid apart
this time, and after this the basting stitches
should be clipped so that the different
pieces will fall apart without being pulled.
The lining, with an allowance for seams
Of at least one inch ali around, can now be
laid upon the outside material and pinned
so that IL cannot slip and be cut. Care
must be taken that all the figures run one
way II the goods are figured or the nap II
Of wool, and that the sewage edge comes
straight with the front Of the waist. The
outside should be allowed a trihe larger
thar the lining, as Il IS often Of goods that
will fray.
Basic the lining to the outside with great
care, for much Of the beauty and smooth
ness depends upon the basting. The lining
should be held upward so that IL may be
Just the least bit looser han the outside.
The basting stitches should follow the out
line Of every separate part Of the basque
and mp both sides Of each dart. More de
ponds upon care In basting than people
usually suppose.
" MN 49, NAN NHHN NANHNAAN AAAhNNN
with stitches not more han one fourth Of
an inch long. turn the front over and haste
as designated by the pins. A very full
bust will require a V shaped plat in front,
as per diagram. in the lining only, and
sometimes for quite stout ladies the front
line will need turning in quite deep at
neck n waist line, but the pinholes will
show just how much Is required.
The buttons 20 on the left side and the
b%uttonholes on the right, and the lap for
these should be deep enough TO have the
b~uttonholcs cut IN the doubled place.
Leave the under lap fiat and sew a strong
piece Of tape along for the buttons.
When this IL done, haste the darts, be-
ginning the seam from the top, tapering
from an imperceptible point. The darts
should never be very high, the back one
being an inch higher than the front, and
this abouttwO inches below the under arm.
The seams m always be commenced
from the top and carefully basted before
sewing, care being taken to keep from
pickering the seams. Basic the two darts
first, then the side cores, beginning at the
arm size. The two middle backs should
be then basted together, beginning at the
top; then the side pieces. which are the
most difficult Of all
II the waist now proves 10 ht perfectly
the seams can be sewn FIRMLY and neatly,
but always on the outside Of the basting.
next the edge, as the basted scans are
elastic. and sewing them tightly makes a
couple ofinches difference. When they are
sewn lay the seams open and trim the edge.
neatly with the scissors and overland OF
bind with lustring, II preferred. Al the
waist line two Sits should be cut IN the
seams nearly TO the seam, aud after IN,
edges are bound or overcast they should b.
pressed carefully with a hot iron before tho
bone castings are sewn on or the ease belt
and before the bottom IL finished of. II
the goods are wooden, they should be slight
j. moistened; n Of Eiik, the iron should moi
be too hot nor the silk moistened. TIT
press board should have one thickness Ol
hannel aud one Of muslin.
OLIVE HARPER.