Morning journal and courier., 1892-01-30

ed walls blend into a rosy whole, broken only by slender square tower, with elis- tening porcelain sides, and one hnge, ruin ous mass, to which the city seems to lead in giant housetop steps. The one is the tower from the minaret of which the Mos lem muezzin calls the faithful to prayers. crying Mohammed and Allah to the four quarters of the earth. The other is the Kasba or castle, where the heartless Kirke. during the brief English occupancy of Tangier which gave the world at least the famous "Pepy's Diary, was guilty of more wanton crimes and butcheries than were ever charged to tiercest and fellest tyran, Moor.
 There is no mole, quay or pier at Tan giers; and we came to anchor near the solving shore, where harborside traffic goes on with wondr ous din, and the Moor ish customs officers squat upon their haunches transacting their duties in se- we're silence and gravity. On either side We're numberless fellucAs, with strange craft from the lower Mediterranean, and perhaps two score of French, Spanish, English and Dutch schOoners, barks and brigs. Rather a Lonesome hzrbor seems that of TAugisrs; and she two huge Brit ish men-of-wa which had been lying here several days in view of possible danger 10 British interests, from the threatened re- volt of interior tribes, who seem always to be about to bs doing something unpleas- ant, braugnt again the keen and humiliA- ting longing I have had in an hundred other ports, that the American government poss ssed sufficient character and dignity to make our flag n tithe as well respected as any other that floats the seas
 Getting ashore at TAngier is not aliogeth- CT a stately performance. Scarcely had our steamer anchored when there came swarming over The rail from All quarters horde of swarthy turbaned hArbur DOT ters, dressed In the natural black leAthern skin of Morocco, many with huge rings in their ears, danglets and bsnglets of tink- ling metals. and bright sAshes, barelegsed and barefooted, or shod with loose san dals; all as uncanny and weird lot ss ever loated a ship and butr-hered its crew in the good old days of Moorish piracy and pillAge.
 Formerly these black imps grabbed tray slers bodily, lifted them astrids their backs or shoulders and wRied ashore with them. Recently diminuiive land ing. stage has been built, but the treatment is quite ss ferOcious. Ordinarily the strangers belonging- are seized and pitched into a half dozen different small boats and himself made the unwilling subject of A fierce scramble, after which the victor pulls and hauls his victim into still anoth- CT boa: and rushes him to the landing. where a separate bribe must be paid for the recovery of each article, and & final heavy tribute is exacted for one's own lib erAtion. Precisely the same form of pira- cy is repeated on your way to a hotel with your own effects; but once within the great gate leading into the city from the harbOr side, and you are safer from An- noysnce and exaction than in any other Moorish or Christian city in the world
 Good fortune had more than once at tended me through the alert and cunning service of Colorado, and it stood me now in good stead, getting me on African soil unrelieved of much as a copper flu; al- though his rugged diplomacy al first sub jected me to some disquiet. Standing in front of ne, as each furious onslaught by porter was made, and without apparent effort of his giant strength, first with his open right hand and then with his left, he sent African. Moor, Berber and what not, alike sprawling to the steamers deck Each jumped nimbly to his feet and slunk humbly away.
 Suddenly fellow. swarthy as q Moor, with hair and matted beard, black, curling and glossy as Astrakhan wool, sprang from the crowd full upon Colorado. Vii sions of tragedies, dungeons in the Kasba, consular courts of inquiry and interna- tionsl complications flashed before me. The two clinched; parted; clinched again: and, after various alarming contOrtions, fell in what still seems to be terrific em- brace together upon their knees. Then such kissing and embracing began as had never before seen between man and man, man and woman, or stranger still, between woman and woman.
 Soon they arose utterly breathless, but radiant. Colorado half dragged the hulk ing fellow to me, and sfter the latter had embraced my still trembling knees, Dobra- do said apologetically but laconically: "I feared 1 would not meet mim, Senor. He is my hinsman from Mondonedo, be- side the Ria de Foz. You know the Gslle- gans go wherever there is money for toil. He is half time portero and half time does some service for "A merchant here who has traffic with VAlladOlid." And then, hesi- tantly: "Perhsps Senor could find him useful in Tangieri"
 'tSenor" could and did "Senor," the writer, shuns great hotels iL his wander ings; loves to know the lowiy, and, from their standpoint of thinking, feeling and condition, to thus look through the back | windows of foreign life and ways.
 No one can wholly tell another what Tangier is like within its ancient city walls It has no street geography. Though it contains scarcely more than twenty thou sand souls, its own inhabitants get lost within it; and there is but one street or | way in which the stranger is safe from sb- | solute wreck of consciousness of location. This extends upward from the hArbor side to the Soc-de-Barra, the great outside mar ket place of Tangiers, just where you leave the city on the way to FeZ, Moroc- co.'s capital. Once a dozen yards away | from this narrow thoroughfsre of bazaars, and the prompting to prayer to Allah or Allah's subjects for succor is a quickly re- alized experience.
 But for Colorado and his kinsmAn I | should have turned back passed the night outside the great city gate upon the shore beneath the stars and some handy tArpsu- lin, and incontinently fled the place upon the next days steamer for Gibraltar. As it was 1 kept close to my Gsllegan guides The evening had fallen before we had en- tered the city. The single thoroughfare was a babel of donkeys, camels, goats, water-carriers, bsre-legged African sol | diers and merchants closing their tiny shops. The din of "Balak.-Bslak,-Ba- lakl" the equivalent for our Look outi'' shrieked by thousands of voices in the choky, chasm-like street, was deafening. Scores of times on our hslf-mile way we | were BrOuHu against uulldlngS, wecged pe- tween camels or flung into pitch-blAck archways.
 After an hours struggle We turned from this main thoroughfare and plunged in and upward among a maze of streets, so narrow that opposing walls could be touched by outstretched hands. The si- lence here was as startling as had been the din. Now and then perhaps ghostly fig. ure fitted by. Here and there was heard the wimpling sound of water from over. | flowing fountains. Occasionally muffled
 form asleep beneath an archway was stum-
 bled upon Not light was seen in the | whole distance. But for the stars over
 head it was like gropiug torchless through
 the catacombs-
 | At last Dobrado's kinsman halted
 With the hilt of his heavy knife, almos
 as ponderous as a Cuban mschete, h,
 knocked loudly upon barred and bolteS
 door. A black face peerei savAgely iron
 6 tiny wicket. There was barley whicl
 sounded like a mixture of the Roman,
 tongue and Gallegan Spanish. The wicke
 closed and som an old man clad in flow
 ing robes, attended by the African, re tuIped- Swere admitted 10 what scene, the dungeon snte-chamber to a larger dun