davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

all combine in making these striped gowns
attractive: A favorite. selection is n black
and the latest Partisan advice is to trim tho
skirts Of such gowns with two inches Of rib
bon repeating tho colors in the stripes OF the
:, A. black ,,grenadine. barred with lines OF
"Watteau.' q pnle Nile green. and Laurcr."
plated ribbon. each ruche made Of two rib
bons. n broader green, with narrow pink rib
bon plated through tho centre. The full yoke
and enormous sleeves are of plain green crepe
du chine. oyerlaid with thin black lace. and
The eirdle OF Jet has the two depending orna.
ments. which are feature Of SO many fash
ionablo gowns. and which may trace their
origin to the modes in vogue ~ the court OF
Louis XVI. when women, rs well as men, OF
fashion wore two watches. with two long
chains hanging on either side from the waist
coat. Stripes were as popular in those days.
too. rs at the present time
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
l7HLETIC GIRLS.
Tho HapId Advance or Physical Training In
Colleges.

The uapld Advance or Physical TSnininE In
Colleges.
Tho modern college girl In Turkish trousers
crosses swords with fencing master. vaults
bars, climbs ropes. plays ball. rows swims.
and decks her boudoir with tho trophies OF
gymnasium tournaments. Calisthenics or
gymnastics, In desultory way. have always
been exercised In girls schools. but physical
training. as now understood, WAS unknown to
oil our educational institutions until tho past
threo years.
Vnssar, In Its earliest days. had riding
school. and two foreign masters OF horseman-
ship initiated the fair candidates into eques-
trlan mysteries. To Its alumne association
Vassar Is indebted for Its present gymna-
slum. Wellesley needs q separate gymna-
Stun building. but one OF its spacious
halls Is replote with the paraphernalia de-
manded by the Sargent system. Smith has a
oommodious structure. Before equipping it
PRESIDENT seelye visited tho gymnasums OF
Europe. The gymnasium ut Bryn Mawr is a
beautiful structure. whilo outside Harvard
that a. the Wom1sh 20 GymntasiRam surpasfs,ss =
s9ulpPod with lander machines at a cost OF
y. and Dr. Mary Hall. ths most ogpSrt s Woman sS
Sxpounder OF Ling Is the Instructor, assisted
sshsSs " Of the
Harvard Annor avail themselves OF Dr.. Sar.
gents gymnasium at Cambrdga
MOST OF these gymnasiums have rnce tracks
md swimming tanks. The efficacy Of the
German. Swedish. and American lDr, Sar-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

cts with fans to hutton over decorate either
hin, and o third ornaments tho LETT brcnst
there are inside pockets, too. and snug little
where convenient flask can ind iohgment
There Is meaning In every inch OF THIS queer
garment the scofIlng yarhtsman discovers
whom his wife or swcetheart offers to eXpllln
It's ms, and outs. For instance. the coat Is De.
days and nights when tho men get into their
convenient comfortable bad. weather toys md
the women are left to shiver In their
cabin. Into those cnracious pockets can
be .sefoly, slowed away and buttonGd down
all the odds and ends women ordinarily carry
in their hands, and tho unshapely sizo OF the
coat permits one to wear it over any number
OF Gowns: thon with that impressive collar
about her ears. her hands in the ample
pockets. and her car VOL ovor her eyes. Mrs.
Cart; KIDD can snap her fingers at tho rain
Germ rs hor husband.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
YANKEE WOMES At THE QUEENS
DRAINING ROOM

Mrs. Potter Palmer, Mrs. Warner Miller.
Mr.. Henry VI. STANLEY. Mrs. F. Burd
Grurb, and Others-The Nest BeautiGi
Costumes seen for Years.
LONDON. May 29.-Although this years
Drawing Rooms were neither of them held by
Queen Victoria in person. there has probably
never been during the last fifty years crowd
OF moro beautiful women pre- sent in tho his
toric pile Of Buckingham Palace. and neither
have there been 50 many lovely dresses worn
within the memory OF tho oldest ladies-in-
waiting present.
Notwithstanding tho strict rules made BY
tho Lord Chamberlain with reference to tho
number OF presentations allowed. the numb Der
OF American beauties presented was great
feature. and the magnlflcence OF their dresses
and jewels tho subject of much comment.
Among those in the diplomatic circle Mrs. j..
Burd Grubb. vito OF tho United States Minis
ter to Spain, woro costume which attracted
much attention both by rea son Of tho original
ity of its cut and Of its color. The white satin
fourenu skirt was richly embroidered with
seed pearls. and was lightened by splendid
train Of sunset pink velvet. lined with cream
bouquet of white lilies of the valley and roal
Sopwith. who was gracefully uttired in a sim
pic presentation gown OF white satin yelled
with silk muslin trimmed with natural lilies of
tho valley. the bouquet Of these bowers being
tho only accompaniment to very quietlooS-
-" Mrs sf Potter Palmer. the President of the
Board OF Lady Managers Of the Chicago Expo
sition. was much observed ny the royal eirc.e'
b BY No, n11 tsy SE
She was attired in ono Of the most beautiful
court dresses seen at the Court Of st Jnmes's
II tho dirHsctoire styjj% with Ii:6, waist and
snort PUN sleeves. ne court train was gray
velvet richly embroidered with blue steel.
and lined with forget me.not shot sill The
ornaments consisted OF diamonds and pearls.
NH The S S9Iy Worth gown present was worn by
RRnreRR; ,1 and Grandnece Of pr"si!.nt Martin
was, OF rich white saith heavily emhroidorcd
IL silver and crystal and Of the desgn
court picture The bad Icon wa a Of S' p eess
DE- yelled WIZ Elc Old yeiPpw %H lace p"f as
over the bosom stt In the bertha style. and forming
swG dhi heavy 81.
from the left shoude, In three larse folds she
B%ran is t OF h Miss YIN
gown thought out by Worth with moro than
his usuS ssr Sn was aaaRm n adspt.d
Of dead white Fros grained six; the bodice s
satin and the train OF brocaded silk was s COW
cred with tns lice lice pattern. This costume,
young beauty Of the woarer Admiralty ' md ner
ceived the special commendation OF Princes
Louise, the MaTphiK?Iness q Lorne.
unusual compliment OF appearing In slight
mourning. She wore a gown OF pearl gray
lace and white velvet ribbon. The train OF
gray brocade was lined with cloth Of silver
She carried u bouquet, OF yellow roses and
wore magnificent necklace Of earpbires and
diamonds. Her daughters troek was COM
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
4 YACHTING COAT.
The Nearest Approach to Masculine Attire
that Woman Has Attempted,

Mrs Capt. Kidd. on her husbands yacht this
summer. and other amateur sailors. will wear
new and wonderful garments called yachting
coats. It's the nearest approach to IL mans
coat that fashionable women have been per-
suaded to adopt. When the tailors put
yachting coats on the market the pa
irons eyed them with disapprova but
hearing that the Princess Louise and the
Duchess OF Portland have ordered such
coats for the season OF yachting about
the Isle OF Wight. all doubts wore SGT at rost
and the yachting coat lnds It's fortune made
on this side Of the Atlantic. II il n cross be-
tween common yellow slicker and Il Santa
Claus great coat: The material is u dark or
light waterproof stuff somewhat like covert
cloth. light OF weight, close woven. but very
warm At best y Is In color dark brown or blue
mixed with u little white. and Of shape It las
about as much az wOrkingman's jumper.
The body OF tho coat slants on the shoulders
and curves in at the armholes. while the
waist line remains underlined In the vast.
yoluminous skirts. that fall below wearer's
knees. The seams are double feiled with cut
edges, the sleeves are two long bags a collar
that when turned UP reaches the tops OF ones
pearl buttons the coats irontS lap each other
tbuttons oyer in is9nt gathers In tho skirts At
elk Is the lining. Two huge square peck.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
THE PROBLEM OF HOUSEHOLD SER.
TAHTS.
Coneiusions Reached by Prof Lucy NJ. Sal.
mon-An Educational Process

mon-An Educational Process
Prof Lucy NJ. Salmon has devoted much
time and thought to the study OF the domcs
servant problem. and sho con siders the chief
difficulty In the way Of systematic and salts
factory domestic service is that it offers no ra-
wards in the way Of promotion and little re-
nunorntlon for superior ability. Tho most
hopeful phase Of the situation is tho establish
ment of schools OF training for domestic ser
vice. Nursing, which is now favorlto and
well-paid occupation for women. WAS. previous
to its organization as a distinct profession or
calling, rarely engaged in by women with SUI
ncient ability and INTEL Rence to do anything
else. Nurses Of tho Sairy Camp order w,is
common outside The fancy Of the novelist and
cast the odium OF dishOnor upon ali who fol-
lowed nursing as n business. But directly Tho
schools were opened. til" schedule OF prices
women crowded int TO tho new profession
when housekeeping. hn nr-'naking tho in
dustry which contributes most largely 10 tho
vol being Of mankind. shall have been ,llEn!-
fled INTO an MT for which special training i
required. fr!m which the recently landed
Bride Is IN! Mnrias shall DO excluded for m
competency. wher mist cSS and maid hnya
eunal rights and privileges definitely set forth,
tho reaction vii! perhaps set in lrI tho 10 ~
VIII not b" forsakon 70. tn" jru !gery II Ahu )
ana factories. where my Is ,sS G.ne:Uas aud
surroundings less con.cniul.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
HGNEN'S HAIK ~ 4 L.lEil,
a Fif'y-'oos Rope Made OF the Tr-ssc- or
Many Vic'im. or Indians.
won tie $ia F,nnri~, E.ni


Living in ths Wenatchae. n narrow n y
point. called the Mission. hrrIus, -,,ush
priests years aga located there ana tnu.,'- 80
nn ,n Sh - , an nlh indian chic" IT. r v
,Snmr"nlr, 1t T. nothing less th,n u Ia, % {
human mir ilfty feet long nni Of ya"i i;a''t
r rot Enowuh me laSs2 Is Wy OLD last bow " I,
cabin on III hanks Of the W"na,"inr i. "",t
,ut' nv To strange callers. Only his rir.iH
OF tho mission who have known him lon! AN
ser h Mn ANN from him rrgHrdipG n" r,.'
gets his eyes on It. 1t is m iDuit."!y .'o-
posed q human hair, nn.l woman- hair It
tnaI' There you sa' tn" dark tr's-'- u' W.
AZ aten aa VINO once Were Hrn,ti"s' f4m"n., .a
In tno rope mas be noted hair of brow, an I
alturn. and In half n dozen places OF yell ~.
Hair lot black, straw-colorod, and even red i
shown, but tho saddost Of all to ron'"mI,' n's
are twisted yards long in places In tho larlli.
As had been intmitcd. o'd thiol La iNcr
VIII not talk much about tho iassO. hut to tho
priests no has confidcd its gr"wsomc h story.
The hair was taken rs, the, savage from tho
beads Of wi YES and caught RS If iipncrr':
Many years has 1t he,n in the possession OF
the o'i chief He will not sell IT, n" matter
how much h. is offered. and it Is ral" ihtt he
wi show 1t to any one except rn'mculAr
priest who has won his confidence 70 ~
othors no Is exceedingly rtIrrnt. ~
The lariat has been used many limo on t4s
ia.s2 buffalo In Biackioot Val'r"y, nad whom n.
got II ne Increased its l"n+h hL mo mar OF
ably thirty women have been s"nlprd to FUR
nish material for this fetrul r'lie tho taciturn
chiH' mas ~ his cabin. IL nnI ,iiihy 20 b1 re-,
s"a lis s Essy thnk there some me a
power att aohed 10 II. and 1t IS rare that u 10
brought to the Light
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

sol honenth which a fair face grows fairer and
dark eyes gloam with soitensd dangerous lus-
trr. Finally. man plays tennis because no
Nos the Saino. He plays croquet because he
likes the girl. HOnce Its superiority.
The tennis girl wears n dress Of flannel. II
sho IL artistic sho viii make it Of blue with
crimson yoke embroidered with tho balls and
racquets of the game. She will have deep
band about the bottom OF the skirt embroid-
cred In like manner. and the sleeves to the ell
Gow will be OF crimson. A soft scarf Of silk
will bolt the waist and flutter as she runs.
Tho croquet girl will wear gown of India
silk or muslin Of delicate green, like the first
tender shoots of the wlliow. IT viii DO pow.
dered and sprayed with oil the flowers, that
Ovor bloomed and several that never will bloom
save in the fancy of the designer. 1t will be
softly frllled with lace everywhere and o. nutter
with ribbons. 1t will be accompanied with a
pirtnresGuely dropping hat OF fine lace. straw.
mull. or lace laden with flowers The loppy
and two or three, big thorny American
Beauty roses will DO seen often on
the croquet ground. And whatever she
may neglect shc will wear her finest stockings
most persuasive allurlng smile. Sho will no
slow and languidly graceful In her motions,
yuata tribe GeIpo AMI dependent: she will
try not to play u better gnmo thnn tho man sho
plays with, and she will not he too eager about
the results to listen ~ foolish things he will
say about how perfectly delicious sho Is in her
new rulo.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

lHVUtrH HHITUrFSH"r ms IehrnPu 10 pro-
duce from, most unpromising strai ght
trcSses. Tho bang is donmed according
time yet perhaps. hut its days arc numbered.
1t hns been one of tho grentest blessings bo-
boon made beautiful by n dextrous toss and
cut OF tho bang than by all the jewels and
ilnery that have been consumed in the adorn-
vanity began costume designing. We must
train our hair now like that in tho cut in big
We can accomplish it Iust rs we have squared
our shoulders and added q goodly portion
OF tho impossible cubit to our stature. 1t Is
only IL matter Of time and patience.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

among physical trainers. Tho college: are d.
n sh D
HGSsiEsy sR' ' BkamoT % college aa1o
Il; Tho development OF tho heart and lungs by
FREQ movements Of tho body iS the basis q the
sccped y Sy'I @%sh T sxosse The Svat Of
DR.. Sargent's method. Tho German system
ss to aaG so III, f nsr than b ss
Of womens colleges, systematic physical train
q chart drawn defining physical deyia-
lions from accepted normal development
eHsnI doisc,s sFY From time to time measure
progress made ecorda Of LOO spsGs at tnG Ra
ofthis scientific iygionic training. the Prcsi.
apparent in tho condition Of the girls at tho
completion OF tho four years In comparison
with their physique on entering college, Ill
BLACK. Turkish trousers with tho divided
skirt effect. blouse waists with sailor Knots OF
costumc. Much dlf,idence is manifested In
pcctoi appearances ,po Of Mark Twain In the gym
nasium ut Bryn Mawr. when class was In OK
eFGs fin Of hs girl s,SdG nIs An
mex avail Themselves OF the gymnasium;
MsSy ns 'nSs is G TIC
only college with an 3rganzed crew. Rowing
IN rowing are taught every day. the beantitu!
lnko on the college grounds Offering secluded
facilities. Float day in June is tho most pic
turcsaur ffte In the colleges calendar smith
has neither swimming schoo! nor boating
crew To tonris conrts. however. she adds
the nrst and only ball team. -,
:" Are you not afraid that ball plating will
make tho girls masculire!' ask cd u soiicitous
neghhor OF Northampton. ~
Did YOU ever observe them but a ball I"
the President asked.
No. sir"
"Ah. thought 80. II you had believe me.
your fears would be allayed" |
Iryn iIawr has a cricket club 1t wastho |
first to establish tennis tournament. The |
contests hnvo raised the standard OF tennis |
PLAYING II offers prizes for ieats in the gEm,
stimulus given by its tournament suggests |
to Bryn AIawr girls tho feasibility OF organic |
ing an Intercollegiate Athletic Association. |
An invitation was sent out last year, and re-
reated this. to find no encouraging response. |
Fassar. recovering from tho publicity given |
to all it's movements. shrank from n revival.
and. while other colleges recognized the valuo
Of contest. they are not ready.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

Some Delightful Compounds within the
Roach OF Every Hous1wIre-The Hose JAR.

Some Delightful Compounds within the
Reach OF Every nous1wife-The Hose Jar.
All the sweet odors distilled by dainty wo-
men in tho olden days, the fragrance OF lavcn-
der and rue. tho aromatic infusions OF Glove
pinks ana verbena leaves. do service on my
ladys toilet table OF to-day.
Provence roses and jasmine lavender flow-
ers and rose petals. with sprigs Of rosemary.
form delightful adjunct to the summer bath.
and here Is the formula for preparing them
copied from the faded script in recipe books
that wore old before tho girl who studies them
now was born. To pint OF pure vinegar add
half an ounce OF lavender flowers or jasmine.
the same quantity OF common red rose petals.
the Juice OF lemon. and n few sprigs Of rose
mary. Iniuso for two days in an earthen Jar:
then stand the Jar in kettle Of warm wator
handful Of clover Blossoms Il i"y you like tRcr
Sasa Sa% sRdkS IN f66s e IL the hand
!. An ounce Of cloye pink petals Infused In
few yerDena leaves Is refreshing odor ior
the bath.
Then there are the cosmetics Of the kitchen
Elexlon specialist and tho dermatologist.
orc soaGs h S% any uF 81 td f oe " st
nosl :, i1sss solisnts IRE jSiss q rins
is n gentle cool ing rrmedy for sunhurn.
Cucumber Juice or melon Juice squeezed into
cream and always prepared in m earthen dish
with wooden spoon or earthen pestle Is 2
works. handful OF parsley thrown into
boiling water is also good antidote i1r sun;
to swear by the good effects of a raw potato
cut In halves and rubbed on the face at night
Thun there is the rose Jar. Every woman
meyer llnds a recipe until the season Is over;
Romcmbqr that roso petals gathered In the
their dew and with 1t half thor sweetness, are
more fragrant than those gathered In the heat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

trary. Just now every
fashionable WON n n
must have what not
one woman in n hun
dred ever was natu-
rally endowed wit h,
softly waving locks Of
glossy silkcn sheen.
Not the Topsy frizZle of
the days of tea, lead.
and wire curriers'. not
the satin smoothneSs
Of tho early Victorian
era. but the shining
waves and lightly curl
Ing iiutliness that the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

panyinE sketch has a short plain waist, to
which tho long. scant skirt Is gathered. and
cape reaching to the bottom Of the waist. The
Quaker gray. and the garment, Is finished
everywhere with two ruflles. embroidered on
tha material with q brlar stitching. also OF
white White pearl buttons eloso the front.
and the lining OF both cape and coat ie white
silk. The granny Dounet OF gray Tuscan
straw Is lined with full white lisse and trimmed
with rosottes OF white satin ribbons and short
ostrich feathers
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
INTERESTING TON

AdVertlSement writing is comparatively
| new occupation for women. and one in which
she promises to excel. From to 10 cents
line is paid for work done by the piece. but
in large houses where a regular advertiser Is
employed. the salary is from $1,000 to So. 200
n year. Fortunate is the woman who has q
knack ut rhyming or can draw illustrations
for her ads"
Tho New York School Of Design for Women
is to have on exhibit Mt the Fair the designs
for Brussels. table linen. stained glass. en-
broidery. calico. and laces.
Tho common school children OF Athens are
taught ancient and modern Greek. French
and sometimes English. Their readers" are
the classics Of their own country. and while
they are still children they are familiar with
Honor, Xenophon. Herodotus. and the dra ma
fists. Their nursery tales are tho myths Of
Hellenic literature.
About the granite pedestal Of the bronze pre-
sentel to the King and Queen Of Denmark on
the occusion Of their golden wedding is row
OF has relief portraits OF the fifty-ono children
and grandchildren Of tho house. The most re-
markablc thing about tho group is that out of
the tity-one descendants only ono Is dead. tho
Duke Of Clarence. Few women can count
uron their h!tieth anniversary II family OF fifty
living d"scrndants. numbering among them Il
dnuEhter VINO IL an Empress. II son who il II
King. and another daughter who will be a
Quean when Victoria is gathered 10 her fathers.
From Junction City. Kan comes an interest
inG report q Bellamy cooking and eating
for year Its President is n woman. and her
advisers are tho prom! nent woman OF the city
About nfty of the bust families in tho town arc
Included among its memhers lho Executive
committee meets every week. nuditS I'LL = ana
settles accounts. and no bills ara carried over
special officer acts as y Grievance Com
N p,Aiy "A M ~ "A
all differences, The utmost harmony prevails
ara tho club meals arc pfnnoun""d great
success by those who enjoy them Tree from the
cares OF housekeerinG
Mrs. Langtry, made n 'rHE'ising turf debut.
ThoJeraeY Lily gather in the sh, kels, whether
II is on the turf or behind tho iootlights. and Is
ono Of the shrewdrst women III the world.
1t is less than thirty years since the first
great womnns COLLEGE VA i"M dt A. ahd there
are now 10000 girls sndyinf IN nm ,me HhinGhrent
graduated are distinguishing themselves by
good work In the various departments OF art
literature and science
Tho English marriage settlement. which
seems II rude Interruption To- the poesy Of be.
Ir9,mal H@ys r rs ri fe W is condtions
neither ndyersltN r2' rNtrnrMsnnre. gambling
can elect tho wif"'s settlement. 1t Is inviolats
from crednars an! cannot lie rerlaiwed by the
husband Many $5nt 81 tSo are rhr1pelessly
tlon however auh many fair English maiden
is left fancy freq hrrIuse oi me dreaded inter-
view between eNacting fathers and impecunl-
Gus suitors.
A now form, Of summer, diversion is prom.
ised US TIA" idea Of which Il copied and eiabo-
or vn Sa. on
the dlning table Is made to disappear under
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
CLOAKs FOR LITTLE GIRLS.
The Vatican and the Pelisse Described
Worn with Granny bonnet.

The prettiest cloaks 70: little girls arc the
Vatican and the pelissc. Each may be made
OF cashmere. silk. cordurette. or wool crcpoa.
In shades OF green. brown. or in bright red.
The Vatican cloak shown in the illustration
is ofheavy corded stehNgreen silk with full
ruche surrounding it's yoke OF black China
silk. sash Of black. starting under the full
ness OF the back, ties over the loose front in
knot ut one side.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

Rather more elaborate than this is a walk
ing costume in fawn vicnnn or cheyiot. edged
tinctive in style because Of n panel in the
slightly trained * irt OF pIadcd silk. employ
Ing IN its soft coloring all tho dun tints OF
caslonal thread Of gold.
The waist and sleeves nre entirely OF the
plaid. with round Jacket OF the plain material
omen up the tack and in front. The care
fully fitted skirt Joins the waist smoothly
ut the back
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

cd PORCELAIN ornRmented The front on
cihcr side. and two more werc ut the
bottom Of tho waist ut the back. whore
tn" fulness was plaito,l to the waist. A fall of
point de Nrnisr very fine and creamy. covered
ut the throat. Tho sheath skirt was finished
with three folds and an odgc OF gallon to cor
respond with that on the cont. Perhaps tho
most distinctive thing about the costume was
the rich hrocnded lining OF tho cout and tho
frou frou OF golden yellow frlls revealed when
..,I an
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12

Blank promptly forgot her prettily assumed
iniirmity. and was tho first to warn her quests
OF the approaching monster, rs with an ncc9m-
pnniment ot shrill little screams she STOOD In
her chair at the head Of the table.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-12
GOOD-BY To B.fSGS.
The Hair Must Now he Trained In Waves
from Parting In the Centre.

There are fashions in fringes as well as In
flowers. modes in the texture OF trcsses. the
color OF eyes. tho shape OF shoulder. and the
contour Of the figure that ono must follow
rigidly in spite of natures efforts to the con.