The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-06-05
Al the Table.

After tho Strawberries are finished. We
take our sent ut the fellcitously dismantled
boar, aud discuss the question hero snh-
mltted for consideration:
"wli you bc 40 good a. TO say whether It Is rtopsr TO
eat from chicken bone held IN tho nngers ana oh'ge
"uSs or rue BoARpEhs."
A careful and affectlonate mother OF this
happy ple-land OF America thought sho de-
tected the click OF q knife In the next room
where she knew her vigorously guided
daughter was eating pies: whereupon this
principle was proclaimed with great en-
phasis: MARY ANN. are you eating that
pie with your knife? ?" "Yes. ma" We'll.
you DROP and eat with your fingers!" This
was tho doctrine OF simplicity and OF
protest against the conventional affec-
tations with which luxurious clviliza-
ton sweeps away many natural ana
becoming habits OF mankind In favor
ofan ever.growing variety OF means to the
same ends. but vastly more elegant. ttnical.
and elaborate.
In enting especially, the old rule from
hand to mouth has suffered nearly to
death under this social tendency. Bread
is about the only article OF food that Is
uninterruptedly safe from being stuck by
n fork or scooped by q spoon. This pcrpet-
ual progress In delicacy Is often governed
by spirit OF absurd exaggeration: and yet
no amount Of fantastic and fashion-scrvng
fanaticism can prevent sober and rejecting
refinement from accepting the principle that
at the table. If 1t can be done with grace
and neatness. the hand may serve for al
most any duty for which 1t Is better suited
than our Occidental chopstlcks.
The effort long ago set In to make
gentle society let 60 even its grip
upon the slender and flexible aspar-
agus, the steaming corn cob. the sinewy
drumstlck. or the artlchoke's tieshy
scales. The formality OF the knife and fork
was never adapted to the fullest enjoyment
OF any OF these culinary Joys. The glory Of
each Is better exhausted with the help Of
the fingers; and this being so. they will
cleave to them In greater regard for the
broad politeness Of the reason than for the
representative subservience to impelling
fashion. which lives always in dread lest it
may not keep abreast OF soclety's every
freak. What can knife and fork do to-
ward extracting the delicious juices Of an
asparagus stalk. or the flavor Of the fowls
phalanx. or what toward handling the crisp
shaving OF the potato? Absolutely nothing.
They were not made for such service.
We are presenting this discussion with an
eye solely upon abstract principle. 1t isn't
every hand that can drop the knife and fork
and go back to aboriginal habits without
offence to the proprieties OF the board. 1t
isn't everybody that may MUNICH the corn
cob. or tear the chicken from the bone In
public. Fingers and Jaws must work with
moderation. with deftness, with skill. and
with the nicely of refinement. or their COM
bined use is intolerable. A soft and delicate
hand may WELD drumstick or sustain
corn cob with an archness as we'll calculated
to fire the aesthetic. II romantic. heart. rs is
the fluttering OF fan or the tapping OF a
well-shod toe. All depends upon the manner:
but II that acquires the perfection achieva-
bic through careful and conscientious cult
walton OF elegance. the result will be pleas
ing and the board unanimous in approval.