The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1892-07-31
The Popular Millionaire


These latter burdens are slung upon poles,
by means of ropes and thus toted en- the
shoulders OF several together. We see
scores Of tall athletic darkies moving
about in gangs of four or six, with their
burdens suspended between them Like
the coffee carriers Of Rio, each gang has q
leader. and they sing and shout as they go;
but instead of the double-quick jog trot OF
their brethren farther south, the gait of
these is necessarily as slow and measured
as dead march. Others, temporarily out
of a job, sit upon their empty poles, bare
headed in the broiling sun, or lie about the
street corners, sound asleep, curled up like
--.--e blacksnakes.
SEDAN CARRIERS.
Another class. find employment in carry
ing people up and down the hills in sedan
chairs, which are hero called cadeiras. A
white man finds it very hard work to as
cend the bluffs on foot unbnrdened,
though he takes his time for it; and it Is
dangerous, too, in the heat. Most of the
sweets between the upper and lower
towns wind by zigzag curves along the
edge of deep ravines, or slant almost per-
pendicularly TO and fro, in order to mlti-
gate their steepness. There is one street
supported on massive arches, Of compare
lively easy grade; but 1t is long, stony and
unshaded. When at last you reach the
upper town, its surface is by no means
level, for in the six miles between its TWO
Oxtremes-the Rio Vermilho at one end and
Monserrat at the other-are more hills than
Rome sets upon. broken by picturesque out
tiresome gorges. There is tine steam
elevator-which. of course. lands you in
but one spot, when perhaps your
destination may be two or three miles
distant but no wheeled vehicles
whatever AT every street corner and
near all places of public resort, one sees
long rows of curtained csderras waiting
for customers, exactly as carriages do in
the northern cities; and their bearers, hat
in hand, crowd around the approaching
pedestrian with all the eagernesS of the
United States hack drivers, though with
somewhat less of his impudence, shouting
"Quer cddeird, seRh0r2n-"Will you have
chair, sir!r When you have selected the
least dilapidated looking palanquin, stepped
inside its dusty, musty, faded old curtains
and seated yourself gingerly on its slip
Dery, straightforward chair, you are in
stantly tip-tilted topsy- turvy, aud manage
to remain right end up only by the greatest
effort, while the bearers elevate the poles
to their shoulders. And then they trot of
gleefulIy, as much elated at the opportu-
nifty of carrying such q weight up the long
hill for few cents as If they were sitting
spanking pair.
In Bahia every family with any preten-
siOns To style considers 1t indispensable TO
own two or three cadieras, as people in
other parts of the world keep their car
riages; and the rank and standing of It's
owner is plainly written on the palaRquin,
in the responsiveness of its curtains, the
amount Of its gliding, the livery Of its car
riers and, maybe, by the arms emblazoned
upon it. And when the splendor of the
private sedan has departed, it is sold for
public Uses. Certainly every lady of the
aristocracy must have her own especial
cahierR, to be carried about by two liv-
cried house negroes and followed by
retinue of female servants-for to ride in
the pleDean tram cars, which traverse the
upper town in all directions. or TO descend
into the lower one by a public elevator,
would be to lose caste beyond retrieving.
r4UsING IN TUE MARKET PLACE,
you observe that the lighter-skinned, well
dressed masculine portion Of the crowd ap-
pear to be perpetually tending in one oi-
Northumberland the Dig. square elevator
tower. Join the procession OF merchants
In suits of cool white linen with pale green
umbrellas, aud planters with broad brim-
med hats and jackets Of yellow pongee,
followed by servants carrying their small
est parcels, and you enter massive stone
4
IN it's semi-darkaess you are unpleasently
conscious Of q strong smell of grease, be-
wildering display OF machinery in motion
and degree Of oxygenless heat which no
human creature could long endure. De-
post 100 reis % cents) at the turnstile
grope you way along a dark. moldy CORR
dor to a double elevator, only one car of
which is used al time, and enter the one
about to ascend. BY tight squeezing 1t
holTe 5o7on 11aseenUars and ic lipl,fod NV q
tiny lamp ia one corner, which smokes
like sall possessed as does every male
passenger. You feel as if down in deep
well and gasp for breath as the swaying
thing gets in its work, bobbing up and
down with q sea sick motion. and presently
you are dumped on sop of the bluff, $50 feet
above the starting point Then, passing
through another self-registering gate. you
find yourself upon one side Of a beautiful
little plaza Fronting it are the Municipal
Polace, the case da Gobernador and other
quaint old mansions which look as if they
had strayed by mistake from Portugal.
OTHER INTERESTING FEATURES.
From the square you have magnificent
view OF the harb0r and lower town, though
from such an elevation directly over it you
can distinguish little in the latter but q
semi-circular sweep of red-tiled roofs and
in the open spaces between them a multi
T =. u
beyond canoes, rowbodts, jagandas
launches, dot the harbor and dart TO and
fro like living things. Farther out, faint
spires OF smoke denote passing steamers
aud white sails from many lands resemble
painted ships upon painted ocean !" and
still further on the ultra-marIne blue Of
the tropical sea blends with the ultra
marine blue Of the tropical sky.
On the land side, squares of the oldest
/ looking hQYses stretch away into long, ir-
regular Streets and straggle off into the
green country, outhnel by rows
Of palm and orange trees The
leading hotel''-a short distance from the
elevator, facing another and more extensive
squares as poor. in every thing but price,
as any IL has been my ill-fortune to find.
There is q better one ct the southern ex-
tremity of the town, in the suburban ham
let called Rio Vermelho Green river).
where many of the city merchants reside
with their families. 1t is situated close 10
the surf, ana is reached by horse cara
delightful half hours ride through orange
groves and thickets Of wild bamboo and
bananas aud bread-fruit trees Part of the
way lies along the Vermilho river whose
banks are always lined with squatting wo-
men, washing the ciiy's dirty linen
4 At Vermiiho the principal amusement
and industry is whale fishing, for. strange
to say, these huge fish frequent these
wafere though thew long apo raear4ed