Arizona weekly citizen., 1892-03-26

| frighten novice, who prob ,Ild assume that the interior was y ss worse and correspondingly harder to travel. This deception is more or less pro-
 nounced along the whole Pacific shore | line of Alaska, where the mountainous coast once broken through, the inter- | for gives better travelling in many ways. We got away about 7, a good wind | behind us, but the weather | threatening. As we left behind the in- let, we were now traversing a region
 that had never been travelled by pen, pencil or photographer to give the re- suits to the world, so we felt disap- pointed in the dismal weather spelling
 our photographic chances. Some four or five miles up the river a deep break in the mountains to the north gave us pretty vista of the Tahku glacier, lying like white wedge between the black sides of the preci. pitous gorge. The Indians call this pass the KOo-dah-sake, or 1.-The Fair Wind Gap,'' as through it such breeze could always be depended upon for mornings sail up the stream-the very wind we were now using. About 9 we passed single Tahku
 house on the south bank, that looked
 like a pig-pen struck by an avalanche.
 Dogs kept coming out from various
 apertures in its sides. until no less than
 eight stood on the high bank and fav-
 ored us with the usual canine chorus
 given strangers. After while an h.
 dian, that looked as if he had been
 squeezed between two colliding aval-
 anches, crawled out, and, standing in
 the center of the scenic circle of dogs,
 put his hands to his mouth and walled,
 ''HoochinoOr' This hoochinOo is the
 native Indian liquor surreptitiously
 distilled from sugar and molasses, us
 ing a coal oil can for retort, and
 a long kelp stock for a worm. It tastes
 of all these ingredients plus fair share
 of the favors usually given the freedom
 of an Indian cabin. A prospector
 assured me that it was not unlike proof
 Prussic acid favored with Rough on
 Rats Whether the Indian had any 10
 sell or wanted to buy-the more likely
 of the two-we never knew. for we were
 just then enjoying good sailing wind
 which we did not propose to lose for all
 the hOOchinoO existing, and we never afterwards heard his voice again above the din of the dogs. l have lived about a third of a century among Indians and
 
 dogs, but have never seen one of that breed of any use before; and this was entirely unintentional. Silvery cascades | were numerous on all sides and fairly stripping some of the mountain sides. Here we also heard our first avalanches, showing that all the watery elements were breaking up. There are several glaciers along the course of the Tahl1u, but only three or four reach the valley 1 and none of those reach the river itself | so as to impede its valley to transporta- l ton on that side. Even a railroad | could be constructed the whole length | of the river; but as to this later We | were abreast of the first glacier on the | north side by 9.3O. It is really q double | glacier, their feet joining in the valley, | but in nearly all other aspects they are ] dissimilar. Hair seal were seen fishing | for salmon, their favorite diet among | which they make great havoc. Ten | o'clock saw us sail by the abandoned | Indian village of Klame-auah a town that was deserted before IL was built. The rapidly thriving American town of Juneau, and the attendant work which all this activity promised them, induced them to move alongside and relinquish Klame-quah. The third glacier is from the south side and the only important one from that direction. We had breasted it by noon, and on one of the numerous low islands, covered with cottonwood, we stopped for our lunch.
 That day we passed several deserted Indian villages of more or less permanence. All were fishing ranches" the occupants being farther up the valley hunting. Later they re turn, repair the ranches and go to fish ing. At each house one will see we'll worn paths closely hugging the river bank, and made by the village fisher man prospecting for salmon. About 2 we came to the first noticeable contraction in the river where it swiftly flowed through low stoney banks. We got both sails fairly set to a strong wind and by dint of severe paddling and Wagnerian war-whoops, went like rocket. Just beyond it widened and the Doctor pronounced it fully equal to the Tennessee at Chatta- nooga. Late in the evening we got damp, unpleasant camp, but we had made twenty-five miles, thanks to the stiff breeze. Next forenoon (27th) we saw mountain goats on the high south { ern cliffs. hut the Indians seemed un- l