Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1892-03-02
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
SPRING AND SUMMER MATERIALS
COLORS-WAYS OF MAKING
MILLINERY.
[By our New York Female Fashion reporter.
Cotton goods woven in Bedford cords
have special style for Spring and Sum
mer and no better evidence can bt
given of their continued popularity
In view of this, numerous light woods
show corded surfaces and as alterna
tions in color, are feature, much gay
ETY. is given by the rapid transition
from one hue to another. Crinkled
surfaces are, however, yet more in
vogue and sometimes the inequalities
become quite furrow like, even to the
depth of a quarter of an inch and in
lengths of more than an inch they are
repeated in gradations SO as to form
regular designs, while contrasts OF
shadings in color, afford much that is
attractively unique. From such
PRONOUNCED EXAMPLES
the idea is repeated until the crinkles
become very small and lessen into
crepon and Grape surfaces that from
time to time are groundworks for a
display of floral and other designs.
Plisse fabrics again likewise appear
with renewed prestige-the tiny tucks
often contrast in color and running
both ways, produce plaids that are
nevertheless inconspicuous and con-
stltute no barrier to large floral pat
terms placed upon them. Silken en-
broidered dots or small sprays on light
woods are another feature in dress
goods and they likewise are seen in
union with stripes, bars or flowers.
Plaids are no longer however, a special
feature. the few seen, being of no
marked character, in medium size and
oftener as foundation to other pat
terms, than as the sole attraction.
Stripes on the other hand, are of con-
stant recurrence and very great varie-
ty in width and placing, since they run
from alternate cordings in the class of
goods first mentioned, to those of more
than an inch in width. Diagonal
stripes crossing perpendicular ones, are
noticeable and akin to them are chew
ron weavings. Tan in many shades, is
again the leading color, with a mOdi-
cum OF gray, but single colors are sub
ordinate to cbangeable effects, which
are extremely prominent, especially in
silks.
STYLES IN MAKING
are still on the prolonged order and
the bell skirt SO far from having had
its day, is the leading one. Almost
everything is fashioned in keeping and
coat basques are continued because
harmOniZing with this paramount
style. As may be OWNED, demi- trains
are still fashionable, becauseso partic-
ularly adapted to the bell skirt, al
| though common sense has had suffi-
clent sway to prevent the frequent
wearing of too long skirts ON the street
and such bad taste is shown only by a
few extremists. The Russian blouse, a
long, straight garment which began to
be worn late in the winter, will be
seen in light materials during summer
| and in reply to inquiry, it can be add
ed that for dressmaking, Clark's Mile
| End cotton is the most frequent sub
stitute for sewing silk, because it still
leads in elasticity, smoothness and
| strength.
IN MILLINERY,
the changeable is almost as prominent
as in dress materials and in view of
this, the French have prepared mate
rial called nacTe (mOther of PEARL
which casts varied lights 1t is used
for flowers and somewhat resembles
velvet, but with a lighter and more
silky surface. Flowers made of it, are
of course in unnatural colors, but none
the less beautiful and are seen in in
Vulnerable gradations from pale gray,
tan, blue, pink or yellow to rich browns,
russets and elegant suggestions of Grim
son. Poppies, morning glories and
wide open roses are specially in favor
because their broad leaves give room
for display of the changeable, but as
crinkled effects are quite as fashion
able, the same flowers are brought out
in thin silk of natural color, but show
ing curious crossings. Small flowers
with dropping heads are nevertheless
in demand, because arranged in groups
about thick central stem they give
that upright appearance which is still
prominent in millinery. The stem is
markedly large and forms a support
for an upper and lower group of small
flowers, the upper one sometimes ar
ranged in the nodding way peculiar to
Princess of Wales tips.
FANCY STRAWS
or braids predominant so largely that
plain straw is almost entirely crowded
out, even the few capotes shown for
those who cannot or will not wear the
fanciful shapes set on the top of the
head, are wrought in fancy patterns
Low crowns of plain straw are not un-
frequent in combination with fancy
brims, but crowns are of little moment
and often quite concealed by trimming
massed upon them. Not few winter
shapes reappear, notably those having
a very small sharp-pointed crown and
this renders more easy, the production
of peculiar hats made of two mammoth
poppies flattened out and placed to-
gether in a central and roof-like point.
Ribbons are special expOnents of the
changeable and with moire weave, cast
perpetual variations. Plain ribbons
with contrasting borders, are however
quite stylish. ROsALIND MAY.
!