Southwest-sentinel. [volume] (Silver City, N.M.) 1883-189?, 1892-12-27
HOME DRESSMAKING.
THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING GOOD
BUTToNHoLsS.

Thcy Are ono Of tho Prime Regulates
60 the Fine Appearance Of ~ Gown.
The Making Of Coiinr-AttcntIon to
Little Details Necessary.
Copyright, 1892, by American Press Associa-
iion.l
NUMBER IL.
In the cutting Of dress the waist should
be the first TO be cut, and then the skirt,
which can be made rs ample as the amount
Of material will allow, but the waist will
bear no sorimping
When the waist has been pressed, then
work the buttonholes Cut the holes
evenly, then "bar" them with coarse thread
and overland them, after which work the
buttonhole solidly and well, for nothing
looks more slovenly than wornout button
holes. The buttons had better be left to
the last, as thread catches around them
To get them on straight lay the two fronts
together and pass an iron lightly over the
buttonholes, or mark down through the
holes with n pencil and sew the buttons on
exactly there.
To make and sew collar on dress Is n
neat Job, and II It is a plain one should be
first cut out Of strong wigan, and that
basted on silesia or other lining, and then
faced with silk or satin, whatever the
outer material is made Of The collar Is
&c be pressed with a piece Of damp cloth
laid between that and the iron. Then cut
a nick exactly in the middle Of the collar
and fasten this to the center of the back
seam, and tack the two ends to the fronts
and baste them that on the left side, how
L. -,
tons. The outer material lining ard
wigan are all to be taken in one seam with
the waist Of the dress and carefully basted
first, and only sewn when sure It Is right.
The collar should then be raised and its
position and the facing sewn down and the
whole firmly pressed.
The bone castings can now be sewn in.
They are better made Of bias silesia, but
some use tapes and others the steel cased
bones, but nothing is so good or lasting as
the regular whalebones, and on the proper
adjustment of these very much of the
beauty Of a waist depends. The castings
should be just wide enough TO let the bone
slide in snugly, and they must be sewn
only to the seams and no stitches visible
from the outside. Scrnpe the bones at each
end with a piece Of glass until the ends are
through the dress nor make an ugly hump.
For very stout ladies the bones are doubled
in the middle and shaved thin at the ends
and II placed in hot water a short time
they can easily be sewn together with n fine
needle. 1t is usual to place n bone in each
dart in the side seams and one in the back.
When the bones are all in, the ease belt
can be sewn in. This is to relieve the
strain about the waist and is to be neatly
diamond stitched in the middle of the
back and on the under arm seams, and il
is finished by hem and strong hook and
eye. Then the final finish around the bot
tom can be put on
This can be done in many ways but the
standard is to face it neatly with the same
material rs the dress, or silk or SATIN ii
Of self goods, the facing extends the six
teenth of an inch below the waist giving
the appearance Of piping. The silk lin
ing requires that the outside be turned mn
der so as not to show. In facing the bot
tom great care should be taken TO see that
It is trimmed exactly even, for crooked
lines there mark the amateur at once