The morning call., 1892-01-17

over a hollow framework, a bed of four
legs set into a huge frame with slaves bound
across the thongs, on which we're a shape
less sack Of Sweet-cOrn huSks and WOODEN
blankets hand-woVen by the peasant women
Of the district, while at the head of the bed
hanging from an iron spike Embedded in the
stone wall, was little pewter crucitiX.
When morning came l found the Interior
the pateO or court Of thJ old inn, most odd
ana charming. All Soits OF quaint eDsils
ard furniture were scattered along its sides
y narrow gallery ran around the entire
second story, with here and there bird in
a cage and q semi-tropcal plant On one OF
It's SIDES some pretty vines crept up against
the old walls in Yagrant. luxurious way
while the roof of haf-rouHd ties extended
distance over the galleries, ieaying geneT-
Gus opening to the sky above. Tie whole
Interior. while picture of medieval quaint
ness. was a structural compromise between
the closed abodes OF northern climeS and
the lovely half garden house-court of the
tropics; a suggestion Of snugneSs and pro-
lection from whistliag winds. and as true
tribute 10 ZephyroCS airs and genial sky
and sun.
But opposite my chamber, along the
! SAadOwY end Of ths court. was the SureSt
sign of eQuabe cline and summary days.
That was my breakfast cooking in the open
aig-nOt upon a stove, more in q fireplace.
nor vet by any Of the ruder devices our
American grandmothers knew. Heavy fiat
stones furnished a sort OF raised rocky dais
as high as the knees of the ancient SenhOra
who was buStlng about the court. On this
daiS furze fagots were burning in two tiny
fires no bigger than your fists. Allows one
Of these on a triangular piece Of iron some
thing was grllicg. Above the other in a
copper pct held there from a long distance
by wooden pike beneath its bale or ham
die, something WaS SteWing. Between bars
q q n n IN r y
bust and hips, with arms akmbo and
hands pressing against the sides of her
scarlet bodice, converted herself into
| human blOW-pipp, feeding the flame or
IuTZe with such blasts from her powerful
lungs as would for the time completely hide
the two females in a kind OF a volcanic
shower of ashes, the volumes of smoke
sviriiug away toward the clouds through
the eVeT-Open roof OF the court. Thus, for
an hour came song and smoke and strange
diSSolViDg views Of cookery. women and
FIRE. when l was most ceTemOniOuSly con-
Quoted to my almOcO or breakfast. The
table was bare of covering, but amends
we're made IN dishes and their contents. a
tremendous fraSca para ynhO OF wine
faC0n or glass with pewter goblet at its
side contained fully two gallons Of the
cheap wine Of Aiemteja
A BROWN EARTHEN PLATE
Before me held q slice Of griled Portuguese
bacon Of mighty proportions. 4 sweet
potato or yam, big as d cuSpidoT, stood
streaming alongside. A basin containing
some mysterious stew tlauked the yam; and
piled before me IN an actual rCckiessness Of
mu Iicence was a mountain Of c0Tnmeal
bread, yellow as saffron AMI hard as rcCk.
For all tins service, including my nights
lodging and the care of D0bTadO aud the
other uOnkeyS, with the countless blessings
of God and " good voyages :" sh0wered
upon Us al departure, / was only called
upon to pay sum equal to about 10 cents
IN American money.
At a YillegLiatura or gentleman farmers
home-as all farmers in Portugal above
the grade Of peasants are called morgadOS
or gentlemen farmers-where We sought
shelter from a SHOW eT, aud after the Gus
tom Of the Portuguese were not permitted
to depart Tor a day, ! had opportunity of
briefly studying the Portuguese country
gentleman's home. Near all large cities
the mOTgadO only comes to his country
home IN summer But al this distance
from Lisbon many 1--we at their villas the
year round, visiting Lisbon in the gay
winter season.
These villas Of the better class are all on
one general pattern, A high walled court
yard IN front, flied with ancient orange
trees, hall cOBcealS a low, large house Of
heavy architecture, whose walls extend
lar 10 the rear and form another court
yard Of vast proportions, filed with home
and farm belongings. This IS generally
the Longing and play spot for numer-
Gus servants and children. The interiors
are quaint in huge rooms, strangely con-
stTiCted starcaseS, odd galleries, aud in
yarIabiy q tiny chapel where mass IS said
for the family and dependents on Saints
day. These homes viii possess many Oh
j-Cjs OF refinement, bat se.dOm any books.
Occasionally beautiful statuaTy Is seen.
Odd ornaments IN metal, and gargOyle
wateTspouts and fountain pieces are com
mon. Curious old paintings and eXtTdOTti-
nary specimens Of china ale in every home
and tie guitar. though seldom any other in
stTumenE. will bs found in nearly every
room in The house IN every yilieGgiatura
in Portugal The stranger ana the friend are
alike we come.
Its exterior and surroundings are quaint
dFeamful aud charming. In this portion Of
Portugal yerdure Is never absent the roses
never cease blooming and the songs of the
birds are never d0ue. Avenues Of over
the villa 10 q score OF places upon the farm
thraShlng-floOr, to the roadway, TO the an-
folded oxen tread round and round, raising
villa cascades and fountains, and to count
less places in gardens and fields. Every
where that labor IS done. save IN the fields,
are shade and blossom and nesting birds;
and while life here possesses nQne OF The
thrilling pace and fine friction we know, II
is always one OF easy labor, ample content
and Iangu0rous rep0Ss.
sC0pyrigLt IR9g EDGAR L " KEENAN,.