The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1892-01-02


may be properly termed the business dis
trlct OF Lisbon
The anorthern end of these business
streets terminates in another praca, or
park or square, the Praca do Rocio. In
common parlance il is known as Dom Pc
dro Square. 1t is splendid quadrangle
curlously paved with many colored
stones. The Theater de Donna Maria, on
the site of the 1nquisition, forms its north
ern facade. The tremendous pedestal and
plInth of an unfinished monument to
Dom Pedro l., stand in the center. This
square is the favorite evening resort of
Lisbon people. 1t is dominated on the
one hand by the grand ruins of the Car
mo- the monastery of the Carmelite
monks, built in the fourteenth century,
and on the other by the CASTILLO, or vast
castle OF st. George, from whose mighty
walls the most glorious view of the city
and enyirons can be enjoyed.
Farther toward the mountain nights
IS the lovely Passeio Publico. This is the
great resort of the better classes of the
city, summer and winter. 1t is not large
but it is inclosed and exquisitely laid out
IN Serpentine walks, shaded with number
less trees, and possesses a wealth Of stat
ues, fountains, flowers and birds. 1t is a
sweet and songful place the year through.
The birds never leave it, At no hour of
night or day is it deserted by CAV prom
Portugal, that her beautiful women can
be seen at their best. Their faces arc less
languorous and sensual than those of
Spain. They may not have the saucinesS
and flash of the French. The melancholy
OF the Italian women is lacking. But
they are still beautiful and wholesome
women, with sweetness of mouth liqui-
dity of eyes, and kindly and honest
light in the whole face, that compensate
IN genuine admiration and respect.any
loss on the line of senSually sentimental
interest
Besides these, there is the interesting
Praca do Figueira, or Flower Market, one
OF the most attractive places in Lisbon;
the Campo Grande, over q mile in length
just at the edge Of the city, whore the rid
Ing and driving of the aristocracy may be
seen; the Campo de Santa Anna. where
the noted Lisbon Rag Fair is held weekly:
the Praca do Sac Pedro d'Alcantara,
magniticently-sha promenade, with
shell grotto and fountains, overlooking
the city and harbor; and score of lesser
pracas, squares, gardens and parks,
where the wayfarer may tarry, rest and
enjoy. Lisbon is peopled by, perhaps,
100000 souls. None OF its parks can COM
pare with Central Park, New York, or
Lincoln and Jackson Parks, Chicago.
But l have never visited any city in Eu-
rope in which / have found so great a
number of tiny resort places, each differ
ent from any other, and every one so in
teresting in its separate individuality,
beauty and charm.
Archltecturally Lisbon, in detail, is
vastly more interesting than beautiful.
AS you approach it from the sea, with it's
domes and towers, all thanked by castel-
lated nights and purple mountains be-
hind, 1t is imposing and grand. When
you come to wander within it you are
never astonished, or even greatly i'm
pressed, by its edifices. Its churches are
less interesting than those of any other
city of equal size in Europe. The Church
OF the Heart of Jesus, OH the summit of
Estrella Hill, in imitation of st. Peters
at Rome, without the colonnade, is the
Interpretations in Lisbon. The Church
OF Sac Domingo, the See of the Cardinal
Patriarch, near the Rocio, is vast in pro-
portions. The mortuary Church of Sac
Vicente is interesting chiefly from its con-
tanning, in curious gilt boxes, the remains
OF the illustrious dead of the royal house
of Braganca. The tiny Church of San
Rogue, with its famous Chapel of st.
John, attracts all visitors on account of
its marvellous mosaics. These, forming
the back and sides Of the structure, are
copies, in veritable size, of Raphael Ur-
bino's Descent of the Holy Ghost, Guido's
Annunciation and Michael Angeles Bap-
tism of Christ. The wonderful perfection
of this work is shown in the fact that
from any ordinary point of observation.
no difference between them and the orig
inals can be detected. More curious still
the entire chapel and its interior decora-
tons were first set up in Rome, blessed
by Pope Benedict XIV, taken down and
transferred to its present site. Its cost
has been millions, and there is probably
not in the whole world such treasure
in art work, silver, gold and precious
stones in sacred edifice of equal dimen-
sions.
1t is the charm of extreme contrast and
endless change which holds and makes
one love old Lisbon. There are no two
streets, pracas, churches, public build
ings, shops or homes alike. Away from
the half dozen modern business streets it
is almost the same Lisbon that Columbus
knew. Here is a shadowy shop of one
story where grimy men grope about
among gritty piles of charcoal. The next
building may be three or five-story
structure, housing the richest of wares,
whose upper stories are fancifuIly deco
rated in gorgeous paints and gifts.
Next to this, on one side of dark pas
sage, jolly cobblers beat ceaseless stacca-
tos, cutler grinds and hammers on the
other, and away in there q stream of light
shows exquisite stairs leading to some in
closed court where home of opulence is
embedded in vines and roses. Every
H.,
column andtremendouse ntablature often
supporting buildings whose insigniti-
canoe is ludicrouSly startling.
In many of the older public edifces the
architecture is Moorish, or semi Moorish.
and the facades are often thanked by
square towers and diminutive Saracenic
domeS. The general plan of shop and
abode in the ancient portions of the city
is, the shop below and the home above.
or the lower story, is used as a sort of en-
trada to walled-in home structures in the
rear. or the habitation above. In the lat
ter case these entradaS are temporary
shops for itinerant cobblers, cutters, sad
oilers and the like, or lounging- places for
beggars, donkeys and goats. But, how
ever, unsavory may seem the ground
floor OF, or the street entrance to, any
structure, the upper stories of the same.
or the pretty home nests behind, afford
abundant compensation in picturesque
groupings and scenes.
Balconies are as universal as in Ha-
vana, Nalladolid, Madrid or Seville.
Some project from supports of carved
stone. Others rest with airy insecurity
upon tancituIly wrought timbers, and
still others may be seen in the daintiest
patterns into which brass and iron NAV
be wrought. Many are latUiced, and in
this lattice work are odd little sides and
gates. Behind these the fair Portuguese
women eat their dainty salads, of which
they are inordinately fond, and sip their
wines and ices. And from a partially
opened lattice, as you pass, you will catch
chances from lovely eyes, and as often
smiles and coquettish looks from roguish
faces. The Lisbon maidens must be
chary of their looks upon friends or
strangers in the street, but social custom
gives them the somewhat comparative
and altogether blessed right to tiirt des-
perately with you from the lofty and safe
outposts of their balconied alcobas.
AS one passes toward the outskirts of
Lisbon, all of that suggestive of the home