The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-11-27

adapt them to our day. There is one COM
fort about the new empire gowns, and that
is that with the addition Of exaggerated
lapels and shortened waists old gowns can
be made new. Nearly all of the skirts are
now fastened outside of the waist, and the
sash or belt, or whatever other garniture
there may be about the waist, hides the
Joining place, and thus corsage may be
shortened at will.
On a recent reception day think out of
hundred women present there were at
least fifty who had more or less of the en-
pire about their gowns, and some that be-
long TO a style that must be prehistoric, as
it has certainly never before been seen on
land or sea. notice, though, some very
novel effects achieved by adopting differ
ent ideas to one costume. For instance,
there was lady in a lovely Quaker drab
cloth. soft and fine. Around the bottom
were laid seven fat bias plaits in varying
widths. The corsage was perfectly smooth
and without darts of side forms.
Around the neck were laid five more,
perfectly fat and without a wrinkle. The
sleeves were regular gigot, and there was
ruby velvet vest, with wide fur collar.
Two buttons covered with velvet held the
vest together. With this was worn drab
felt hat, with two very stiff loops and
fancy feather. Buttons are very frequent
ly covered with the material Of the gar
ment, and are very large. The skirt has
the cornet plat in the back, which is now
much more popular than the fiat under
plaits.
Another very striking garment was a
black velvet coat that reached to the
ground, and cut in plain, graceful style,
entirely without ornament. 1t was lined
throughout with black satin. On the
shoulders was a wide cape, with lapels
notched in the front, and the whole finished
with a very narrow black satin piping. 1t
was a superb wrap and much admired.
With it was worn small "beef eater' hat
of gray felt. with ruby velvet bows and
shaded plumes.
The prevailing style of gown and wrap
makes a little change in the couture not
out Of place, and old family portraits are
hunted up, and the little curls hanging
down the middle of the forehead are care
fully copied. Some part the hair on one
side and curl the short locks to hang that
way, and q very pretty way it Is, and very
becoming TO some faces. Others copy the
Recamier and Josephine pictures as closely
as they can aud wear little fancy combs,
which are always becoming.
Some wave the hair from the parting to
a low knot, and others bring it up on the
top Of the head in loops and twists. Verify
| believe that in less than five years we
shall be wearing the great, towering coli
fures that were the despair of men and
Of 81 Il 10 tbar
Nothing else seems TO remain TO revive.
There is young lady of my acquaint-
ance who is very clever in ideas as well as
with her needle and she makes it her
proud boast that she not only designs but
makes all her own clothes, even her party
dresses. She spends all the money that
would otherwise 20 to the modiste in GER
tain pet charities, which of course removes
any stigma that might rest upon her for
having her forefnger marked by the needle
pricks. Among her other successes is an
empire walking gown, which really Is a
picture in itself, aside from the luster 1t
borrows from the wearer, who is an ex-
ceedingly pretty girl. Indeed she is called
a beauty in the social world.
The gown is fine indigo blue serge,
with a border of coon down around the
bottom on the arms, and with enormous
Iapels covered with the same. The back
Of the corsage is smooth and seemless.
The front has a surah vest. The upper
sleeve is of black faille, aud there is a
black silk sash, with long ribbon ends.
The hat is of blue felt, edged with change
able red and green velvet, and bordered
with the same. This was the work OF her
own nimble fingers, hat and all.
This young lady is not the only one who
devotes great deal Of time and money to
charity. Many who are supposed by those
who do not know them TO have nothing
more weighty on their minds than amuse'
ment and dress do the same. The organ.
izations of Kings Daughters among just
such favored ones are far more nuineiouS
,hsn the world knows. and doubt II the
bardworked mothers in the poorest quar-
tiers actually work as steadily MS DO many
of these young eirlA They nut eystem