The Irish standard., 1892-05-28
STATE MOURNING.
An Idea of What This Foreign Institu-
Ia


mourning means beyond the fact that
on the occasion of some great national
| sorrow, such as the tragic death Of a
president, it has been customary to
adopt general means of demonstrating
the public grief, leaving individuals to
express their regret in the most natu-
al way. by talking of the event until
the impression wore off. Here, though,
it is by express command Of the queen,
says London letter to the New York
Clothier and Furnisher, command not
! of course enforced against civilians as
in the army, navy and civil service by
headquarters regulations. but a COM
mand which every good Briton is sup
posed to heed just as he lifts his hat
whenever he hears ''God Save the
Queen played, which in the life of the
average son of Albion is close on to
three or four times week. To the
court, of course, such an order is per-
functory
So it happened the other day. while
orders were given right and left for
proper honoring of the obsequies of the
late prince, that after the three great
branches of the public service had been
properly notified of their duties the
public itself was informed: 'And it is
furthermore expected that all persons
do put on mourning for the space of
three weeks BY twelve o'clock on the
following day the only bits of bright
color to be seen in all London appeared
to be in the few theater posters remain
ing about town. Two million hat bands
were undoubtedly sold within forty
eight hours of the notification, for, as
afterward learned, London hat shops
were stripped absolutely bare Of them,
and extra forces Of hands were every
where put to work cutting and sewing
Every hosier's window in London was
dismantled for the moment. and then
reflled with bewildering array of
specialties in black and white. the only
relieving color permitted being hello
trope, which now, in connection with
the two former hues, is recognized
component Of fashionable mourning
and will probably hold its own for
many a day, inasmuch as it renders less
Der trappings of woe
The fact has, therefore, been estab-
lished that mourning be made quite as
tasteful in male attire as it has always
been in the apparel of the gentler sex.
It has been also put upon record that
pattern OF as elaborate nature asdesired
is admissible in mourning so long as
confined to the three colors have dwelt
upon. Black silk squares worked with
q running vine pattern of heliotrope in
terspersed with small white figures or
stripings of black and heliotrope on
white have played a liberal role in the
various orders for court mourning given
by high personages. BY far the favorite
neck dress has, however, been heavy
black brocade squares, shot with the
tiniest heliotrope stitch at wide inter-
walls, the self-pattern being exquisitely
designed. While attendance upon amuse-
ments is not considered correct in mourn
ing observance, still, in d land where
every gentleman dimes in a dress suit,
and must perforce dine out, as English
men of leisure do, five evenings out Of
seven, gloves to be worn are of white or
pearl kid, with backs finished with
eighth to quarter inch wide black braid.
Three-quarter inch to inch wide black
silk ties, to be tied by the wearer, are
proper with evening dress, as are white
or black enanleled studs, of which three
are now worn. Handkerchief display
both black and heliotrope borders,
usually wide stripes at right angles
with the he1nstitching, small spots or
rings. A black and heliotrope ring,
linked toge ther, is popular and preva-
lent pattern. Hosiery is generally
black, with white or heliotrope clocks
and small spots. have seen also many
striped shirt patterns in black and hello
trope on white.