The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-05-31

with in New York and other cities. and
seems to denote certain conservatism AMI
adherence tn old-fashiuncd saitorial meth
nds on the part of the artists who hang 1t
on their outer walls. We are far from as
sorting that these men are archaic. ByZan-
tine. or pre- Raphaclitsh in their designs
for garments. but We suspect that they
have not yet fr't the full force of that re-
markab.o impulse which has brought
himatiurgical aesthetics to such point Of
perfection in the last few years. The orig
inal and creative gcniuscS among tailors
have raised tailoring from trade
to an equal position among tho fine
arts. The cutter has become Il student
of the art OF design. an architect
and builder of clothes. IL composer in
diagonals and cassimcrcs. painter of
nocturncs and street effects in broad
CLOTH a decorator. n daisy. There is. in
fact no art pursued with moro activity.
as thrre is none. perhaps. which from the
base material point of Wow offers greater
inducements to the pursu"r than hiinat-
iurgics. The shears have become as
great and glorious. in the estimation of the
wcdcrs, rs the chiscl and tn" pencil.
But il seems that the leaders of tho ar
llSiI'' movement III t''I'lillS II'iN' SNhtill
unwiscly as we think. to conilnc tho
glory of the movement to the custom
tniIors. The artists who find their client
age in the great popular rcadyna,le
clothing shops. with their innumcra-
bic patrons, have been left out. Be-
cause their art was popular it was de-
| Spiscd 10y the merchant talors. who hclicv"
that himntiurgics is IN cs"teric art which
can be known only by the few. Guilds and
associations OF the custom artists have
been formed and flourish. and their
conventions are among the events Of the
| year. But the readymadc men We're OK
Guided from these assemblies.
This was condition which could not
continue. The very range and freedom
of the present great period of sartorial
art made the policy of exclusion seem
| the moro oppressive. We arc glad to
say that the rcady-made men have arisen
in their wrath and have formed the
National Clothing Forcmcn Designers
| Association. whose programme and dcclaru-
ton of principles lie before us. The Gar
| ment Designers employed in the wholesale
clothing houses of the country have been
| requested to give their opinion rs TO he
advisability Of II national organization of
| tho craft; and the majority. as the circular
| letter Of the Forcmcn Designers informs us,
are in for the thing, and express .sllrprieo
| that ii class of men with such opportunities
rs they possess should be without frator-
nal. manly, protective organization devoted
TO the elevation of the craft and 1hr benefit
OF its members. Surprise that they should
continue TO bear calmly the slurs aud in
| dignitics of professional Interiors;"
his Is the proper spirit for n freeman rs
well rs for an artist. No wonder that the
| founders of the new association have had
| the greatest OF "aS" in "pcrinctng their
| organization They decided to mako the
| order secret. and to obtain n national char
! ter. Meanwhile. "ev"rv desirable design
representing over - per cent. Of the cloth
ing houses in Chicago. have been initiated
| and have assumed the obligations and tie
grecs of the \. c. T. d. A.; and sufficient
iirst-clae- men to insure success unpro-cnt-
ing the best houses in the country are low
awaiting initiation ut the conventions"
With single exception all the present
officers of the y. G. +. ID. a. arc Chicago
men, but Chicago has no wish to ronlinc To
herself the generous movement which pro-
cacds from her. The wave from Lake
country. Chicago can lend is well as Dor
row. The convention Of til" Forcmcn De-
siSnevs will be hold in New York In July.
There is nothing pHrochnl about them.
Their object is not even a selfish ono. BE-
sides the progress of their art the cultiva-
ton of tn" m,thctic rcady-made clothing
sense. and of good fellowship and frnt"rn!tv
among themselves, they seek to establish
u. ,,i,
power between art. commerce, and tho pro-
LESSONS, But 1t would be injustice to this
rhanlhroplc and far-reaching plan to
allow our readers to lose word of il.
Here is the Foromcn Designer declaration
of principles:
ITO elevate the business of designing and to
command the respect of tho world.
" To form national fraCrna! bond. uniting all de.
sirab!c men III the business.
ITO associate and work In such a manner that prsc.
traI united knowledge may result in tstahl s,ug AN
equa! power among professions, art trade. and the
leading commercial interests,
TO contribute by friendly intercourse and exchange
Of ideas To each others professional knowledge and
ability. thus forming u class of competent ii. iyners
whose collective knowledge and experience. while tend.
ing to elevate themselves professionally Will raise the
clothing business 10 the highest possible plane OF per
fiction and be thu PRINCIPAL factors IN their EMPLOYERS
commercial success.
To found and conduct such enterprises may hest
serve aud promote JOINT and professional interests
" To unite members in spirit Of true brotherhood
whereby all may be- drawn together in Ifectonats re-
ia'i"n'hlp and the good II the cause he inspra
ton t" every mans possible effort to do good"
II Mr. WILLIAM NORRIS were seeking to
found an Earthly Paradise for the garment
designers. he could not proceed from prin-
ciples or with intentions of greater social |
benevolcnce and the mixture of business |
with pleasure. As tho programme says, |
now. for the first time in the history of |
the clothing business every good man in it, |
filling the position of u Foreman Designer, |
has presented to him the opportunity of |
giving all his power and influence in aiding