Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1892-11-20
HOME DRESSMAKING.
THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING GOOD BUTTON
HOLES.
Thsy Are One Of the Prime Requisites to the Fine
Appearance Of GOwn-Ihs Making OF
COllar-AtisntOn to Little
Details Necessary.
NUMBER II.

In the cutting of dress the Waist
should be the first to be cut, and then
the skirt, which can be made as sample
as the amount of material will allow,
but the waist will bear no scrimping.
When the waist has been pressed
then work the buttonholes. Cut the
holes evenly, then "bar" them with
coarse thread and overland them, alter
which work the bnttonhole solidiy ana
well, for nothing looks more sloveniy
than WORKOUT buttonholes. Inc out
tons had better be left to the last, as
thread catches around them. To get
them on straight lay the two fronts to-
gether and pass an iron lightly over the
buttonholes, or mark down through the
holes with a pencil and sew the buttons
on exactly there.
To make and sew collar on dress
is a neat job, and il it is q plain one
should be first cut out OF strong wigan
and then basted on silesia or other
lining, and then faced with silk or sat-
in. whatever the outer material is made
of. The collar is to be pressed with
niece OF damp cloth laid between that
and the iron. Then cut a nick exactly
in the middle OF the collar and fasten
this to the center Of the back seam and
tack the two ends to the fronts ana
haste them; that on the left side, how
ever, must reach only TO the line OF but
tons. The outer material, lining and
wiqan are all to be taken In one seam
with the waist OF the dress and care
fully basted first, and only sewn when
sure it is right. The collar should then
be raised and its position and the facing
sewn down and the whole trmy
pressed.
The bone castings can now be Se5"h III
They are better made Of bias aSiiesia' ou'
some use tapes and otherS Tue stee
cased bones, but moth Eng Is so good OF
lasting as the regular whalebones. anC
nm the proper adjustment Of these very
much OF the beauty Of waist depends
The castings should be just wide enough
~ ~ the hone slide In snugly, and they
must be sewn only to the seams and nc
stitches visible from the outside. Scrape
the bones at each end with a piece oil
glass until the ends are flexible, and
thus they will not wear through the
dress nor make an ugly, hump. For
] very stout ladies the bones are doubled
in the middle and shaved thin at the
ends. and If placed in hot water a short
time they can easily be sewn together
with fine needle. 1t is usual to place
bone in each dart In the side seams
and one in the back.
When the bones are all in the ease
belt can be sewn in. This is to relieve
the strain about the waist, and Is to be
neatly diamond stitched in the middle
of the back and on the under arm seams
\ and it is finished by hem and strong
hook and eye. Then the final finish
! around the bottom can be put on.
This can be done in many ways. but
the standard is TO face ii neatly with
the same material as the dress, or silk
or satin. II OF self goods, the facing
extends the sixteenth of an inch below
the waist, giving the appearance of a
piping. The silk lining requires that
the outside be turned under so as not to
show. In facing the bottom great care
should be taken. to see thatIt Is trim
med exactly even, for crooked lines
| there mark the amateur at once.