The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1892-06-13
GULF SALENO AND AMALFI.
Scene at the Station at salerno.

BALE, SWITZERLAND, May 20.-My de-
light on once more finding my
self emancipated from the drudgery
which travel becomes, after too long a
stretch in a slow jogging train, was some
what dampened on leaving the cars at
Salerno by the reception which met.
1t seems very novel and amusing in the
retrospect, but such an experience is not
wholly agreeable. | confess felt little
timid, unused as I had become, in the
quiet journey along the Adriatic, to
crowds and hustle.
There seemed to me here, to be very
large crowd of somebodies, though in
the confusion of the moment I could
hardly make out of what the crowd con-
sisted. Whoever they might be they
packed in and around me with their al
most inarticulate and inexplicable jargon
some wanting to get me a hotel, some to
take my luggage many offering cabs and
all wanting money. 1 tried to assume
the air of a deaf and dumb person, and
edged my way through the crush to the
opposite side of the station, where first
saw the queer little vehicle so character
istic of Salerno, with the ragged coat in
the box, a safeguard in case of the set
ting in of the sirocco. Diminutive ami
mails, which proved to be ponies were
II aTY,n to thacn 1it41a y,
usually driver proportionate in size. 1t
seemed that one might be almost afraid
to trust himself to such an equipage, but
before l had time to reflect much about
anything | noticed that no one had left
me, all were following on behind. Among
them was the small boy who wanted to
lift my hand bag for a big soldi, and the
army of beggars, which were out in full
force but not in marching order kept in
line until the last minute of my stay in
Naples, it being either cabman or a
beggar, who was shouting and extending
his hollow hand as the train moved out
of the station at the final moment of nv
departure. / motioned everybody away
with the mord n,iente, which far from
intimidating, only dampened for an in
slant the ardor of their approach. Just
as l was making it fully understood by
everybody that wanted nothing of any
body, but would simply put my things in
consigne until could decide what to do
demure looking man with 'Victoria''
on his cap accosted me in English recon-
mending his hotel and wishing to enlist
himself for further service. I said II
am in no need of hotel as I expect to
leave in an hour for Naples, but 1 may
go to Amalfi. ITO Amalfi?'' he said, 80
can get you carriage for Amalfi very
cheap-a good driver for five francs, and
no gratuities,' And no gratuities? ex-
cept large one for yourself 1 was
tempted to add. well, I said I am going
to the post, for some letters and when l
return [ may avail myself of your aid.''
AS passed out it seemed that needed
no assistance in getting carriage for
Amalfi or for any other destination, for
at least forty of these little men offered
their cabs. They rode up behind me
and at each side of me, they blocked the
way in front of me, all wishing me to
take their vehicle. [ found I must en-
ploy one for somewhere or remain where
l was. AS could not break the block
AIDE, so said in italian how much for
the Post. Sixty, fifty, forty'' confines
several at the same time cried out, and L
am sure some one would have gone as
low as twenty centimes, but l thought if
anyone wished to take me mile and a
half for eight cents, it was much less
than waiting to get away from their
clamor, although I had desired to walk
quietly along the quay of the magnificent
gulf, looking up to the mountains, over
the town and into the quaint streets, oc-
casionally taking in an old church OF ca
thedral on the way. But perhaps could
do this, 1 thought unmolested on my re-
turn. So the man with the little old cart
as L might almost call all the cabs at
Salerno, whirled me through the streets,
for the Italians always drive madly, with
their long whip lashes raised as observed
in all the pictpres of such scenes in and
about Naples. But notice when the
blow comes it is either in the air, OF it
lands lightly on the pony's back, never
theless it has the same effect, for these
hardy animals know that it always means
go.
L must confess I could see but little of
the town, and catch but faint glimpses of
the beautiful waters on the other side, at
this wild pace, since I had to devote the
most of my time and thoughts to keep
ing inside the cab, not wishing to bounce
oA' AidOo lHo HIdsu VI JIG DeSSarS VINO
were following ever on with outstretched
palms. It had been John Gilpin'' ride
and also like the race for presidential
nomination with ever the increasing I'M
certainty as to who would come out
ahead. In an incredible short space of
time found myself at the postofffce, got
rid OF the cab man for a small fee and
settled down for quiet walk back to
meet the Victoria employee and get q
carriage for Amalf.