The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-04-24
WAKEMAN'S TRAVELS.
TEE SECOND LETTER RELATIVE
TO MATTERS IN GALICIA.

Cracow, Poland's Ancient Royal Capt.
tal-5uge Outer Forts and Massiv
ninaretted Walls - Polish Jews.
Knoutsd from Russia, Their Suffer.
ines and Indignities Ara Still Intol-
cradle at Cracow.
(CoDyriqhtN
CRACow, GALICIA, March 30.-If one
could first approach Cracow from the north,
filed with the sentimental romance of Polish
heroic memories, and have in mind the
Poland and Cracow Of that time when
Cracow was the residence of Polish SOW.
ereigns, a view of the ancient city would be
one of great impressiveness.
At any distance, from this direction, the
structural seeming is one of uuimpaired
splendor. Its many church spires, quaint
and huge-pesked roofs, spacious palaces
and dark old towers, are clustered in great
profusion around the Wavel Rock,
On which stands the castle
of Zamek, the former royal castle of Poland
AT its base the dragon of the cave, which
noisome hole may still be seen, was killed
nv Krak, the Cadmus of Poland. At the
city's southern side can be seen the gleam-
Ing waters of the blue Vistula, which
almost encircles the olden town. The
splendid Vistula vale stretches fair and far
beyond. And the southern horizon is a
serrated edge of misty blue, where, over
against sunny Hungary, rise the peaks
of wild Tatra and the grand Carpathian
range.
But splendid as is this first seeming the
ancient city of kings, c0thedrals and uni
versities is now simply n gorgeous shell of
stone, swarming with q population the
most miserable and seemingly hopeless
human eyes ever beheld. The city once held
from 50, 900 to 100000 souls, and was the
commercial as we'll as royal capital of Po-
land Its desertion and degradation reached
an apparent lowest ebb @ quarter of cent
urY since Subsequently Austrian re-
forms. and the general improvement Of the
condition of the Galician Polish peasantry,
and especially the stimulating effect Of ex-
c9llent development in agricultural and the
mineral and petroleum fields of Galicia. re-
awakened some Of its old time commercial
activity.
But this fell away again as Lemberg
gradually became the commercial capital OF
Galicia. Then came another influx OF popu-
atinn, but Of so dolorous sort that Ora
cows present increased housing of humans
is certainly the most painfully and patheti-
cally abhorrent in all Europe. The city is
not more than ten English miles from the
ably cruel perse cutions of Russian Polish
Jews which have Indignantly thrilled the
civilized world during the past few years
Cracow has received and succored q greater
number Of these helpless refugees than any
other single European city.
So near is the city to the Russian frontier
that every week, often nearly every day,
Witnesses the professions OF these outcastt
given speed across the border by the impetus
Of threatened knout and lash, and the
even more goadiDg fear of actual murder
In 1864 saw with bursting and mutinous
heart the God-forsaken folk OF my own
race as they were driven from Atlanta,
while their homes were burned behind
them. But revolving as was that brutal
scene of so-called military necessity" il
could not be compared with what is of such
common occurrence here that it attracts nd
further comment or attention.
Two great objects of interest will be
found before you enter the city. To the
north is one of the most gigantic embettled
foTtresses in Europe. Austria has always
claimed that this was for use as q frontier
fortress in the event Of Russian hosSilities.
Asnearly 1000 spies in citizens clothing
are said TO be still in use in Cracow and the
Immediate vicinity, the Polish peasantry
prefer to believe it was built and kept
manned for the purpose Of awe and efRectuel
subiugation.
In any event, it forms a threatening an
sWeT TO still greater monument to national
feeling which may be found but three miles
distant upon the eminence OF Brownislawa.
IEls is the colossal Kosciusko Mound.
over In Ireland the humble peasantry
loyal In their memories for even legendary
nero or SAINT, when passing the spot where
Tue body fell or was Inferred, cast pebbles
upoa the grave and muymur prayers for the
Iepose OF the soul. A similar Polish ma
tonal alteration of the brave and the good
mas resulted in this most curious memorial
mound IN ChrlsteDdom. 1t is $50 feet high
and Is principally formed of earth, brought
10 sacks and barrow loads with infinite toll
from all the battle fields famous in Polish
B history. Grim and tragic is tue satire upon
I!S sacred heartbuilt memorial on the part
OF relentless power. When it was nicely
completed the Austrans found it an excel.
teht PEDESTAL for one of the huge detac hed
Fl t " with which they proceeded to surround
Orac)w in a five miles circle.
me outer walls of the city itself are very
interesting and massive. They will remind
HI iou oA the tremendous walls of old Nurem.
NJ %rg, down in Bavaria. They are quite as
Lsa and thick, but are varied at intervals
WIN surrounding towers, both square and
Lound, Of immense thickness and great
4 u'snU With most pictuI esque minaretteC
TyOlS The gateways ere quite as remarka-
o ny as those at Malta, and are given great
"llonal quaint charm by their curious
VIZ SdTInes. These are very ancient; indeed
~ O1 that the carvings Of the floriture and
..nages are almost wholly defaced. From
..s iacS alone they seem to attract the
b'eulest number of worshipers: and on
maly occasions have been scarcely able tt
pl@ beneath these huge arches owing to the
to"ls packed like panicky sheep upon
'"51r Kusss az linst the shrines
- Mound about and within the old city Cat
hrsseaSon Of the year, just as the foliage is
TsAning to show along the banks of the
s.lIa aud among the gigantic trees of the
tEIS;euV promenedes, casual glance gives
49, preston OF serenity and even bright.
oes one feels as though quiet and satisfied
Tp,.'eht must reign within and without
bouc e inside the massive gateways the
behold y -
soldiers are everywhere. Gay in Their
i. ru Uapplngs they spurn their fellow civil
ON @s thcugh they were beasts. We're
~ these human animals beneath them
du'o surely answer their insults with
H yuanlte or melanite; and one has only &c
Sc ABOUT these streets an hour to under
Gu lu ana condCne the awful revenges the
SiaeI humans of some of these old worlC
PoIs are taxing upon their oppressors. NJ
yy;,i9u lo"ly woman can walk these street:
il - 10y VI o9astly insult. No Jewish maider
tor--e IN her own doorway from these uni
hy su JacEals. have witnessed outrage.
~ Ju1 Austrian military -,