The record-union., 1892-02-27

the little Sea-glrt spot. The vineyards OF
Binisalem and Felantix are as interest
ing as those about Oporto in Spain. The
orange groves OF that most transcendant
of all Maiorcan valleys, the Solier, are
wondrously beautiful, and their odors
are sometimes waited over the entire
island. The gardens of Ell Real at La
Grange rival those of the Cirque Cento at
Seville. Along the north coast is found
some OF the grandeSt scenery of the
Mediterranean; and as / stood by the de-
serted atalyas or watch-towers of old,
from which were flashed the signals of
the approach of Berber pirates or Chris
tan cruSadeS, the majestic round towers
OF the Irish coast seemed to reappear in
all their mysticism and utter loneliness.
The alquerias. or country mansions.
near Albano, and at Bunola and Espor-
las, with their splendid avenues, gardens
and rich yestlges of Moorish architectural
remains, are far more interesting than
similar establishments l have at any time
come upon in Spain. The wonderful
roadway from Palma to Solier is grander
than any roadway in Italy, and half the
distance winds along and upon masses of
mountainside masonry of tremendous
thickness and hight. Over near the east
ern shore is Menacor, the second largest
city of the island. n little distance to the
northeast is Arta, and here, entered by a
natural archway lao feet high are doubt
less the most wonderful grottoes of the
world; and at Alcudia is one of the most
famous fisheries of the Mediterranean.
But If none of these are seen, a visit to
Valdemusa and its once famous mon
astery is worth special trip to the
island. With as magnificent surround
ings as those of Vallombrosa in Italy, a
mountain chaSm is bridged by the an
clent pile in so extraordinary and pictur-
esque way as 10 seem at distance like
gray old cloud-kissed nest that has for
ages defied decay and the battling of the
aerial tempests there. But the gray of
real decay is upon all things at VALDEZ
musa; in the gray old church and end
less cells and cloisters; in the gray old
houses that nestle along the mountain
side beneath it; and in the gray old folk
that haunt the spot like wraithS of those
who once were there. An indescribable
sadness fingers about this splendid Ma
jorcan relic of monkish times and days.
The rich of Palma come here in summer
and live gay, mock conventional life.
George Sand half century ago passed
the most dolorouS winter OF her life
within these walls. With her was
Chopin. Perhaps in these very cloisters
was born the wild and inexpressible mel
ancholy of the nlelodic creations of the
masters later life. To me Faldemusa
will remain more memory of these two
ling, deserted and majestic monastic relic
upon the island mountains.
But best of all in Maiorca YOU will
love the peasant folk of the island and
the sunny setting in which you will al
ways find them. The three classes in
Malorcan provincial life are the titled
landholders, the farmers who rent their
land from the nobility, and the common
peasant laborers who toll in the fields,
forests and vineyards. The houses Of the
nobility are very fine and beautiful, and
large number of servants are retained.
Many OF the middle-class farmers each
control from 500 to 1000 acres of land.
Such as these possess farm-steadingS
spread over acres of ground, all sur
rounded by vine-covered walls, and all
possessing first the quaint court into
which all the living-rooms of the family
enter, and behind this, the greater court,
from which all the outbuildings and
granaries are reached. Many OF these
structures, which formerly housed the
country aristocracy, contain private
chapels, or rather chapels into which a
latticed gallery extends from the upper
gallery to the court.
The structural semblance to the ancient
Moorish form of habitation is preserved
even among the cabins of the peasantry.
However humble the household, all its
members and belongings, even to the
donkeys, goats and fowls, are found within
or radiating from this sunny open court.
To strangers eye the high, apertureless
outer walls would present a cherries
aspect, were they not covered with vines
and blossom, and if the pleasant and often
picturesque interiors We're not meanwhile
in thought and mind. These cabins are
seldom isolated. Two, or three, and
often half-dozen will nestle together in
pleasant irregularity, and, with gnarled
and ancient olive trees, clumps of fig
trees, copSes of almond, and tiny groves
Of orange with which they are ali sur
rounded, form the most charming coun-
tryside pictures of any southern land.
In my tramplngs about the island ! Sc
cured entrance to many peasants and
farmers homes. From this found that
all methods of agriculture and homeside
labor were OF the most primitive sort, and
that there were no idle folk in Maiorca.
Outdoor labor OF some kind is continu-
Gus the year round. All the women spin.
knit or weave, and have never entered
peasants cabin where mothers and
daughters were not in some such manner
employed. Hospitality is charming,
naive and whole-hearted. The plate oj
figs, basin of almonds or basket of oranges
with the wholesome wines of the country
are ever ready for the friend or strangers
coming. | thought l had partaken oil
that drink of the gods, horchGta, in Cuba.
1t is simply the pulverized kernels of the
almonds, to which water and sugar is
added. Here, where the almond grows in
the greatest perfection, every housewife
preserves huge jars of the finest nuts for
hOrchdt0. The old mortar and pestie are
here for their grinding. The shells and
brown husks are removed and quarts OF
| the snowy powder are literally "leachel.' -
the creamy liquid filtering SLOWLY
through. The sonora or senorita adds a
spice OF flavor, tamarind or pomegranate
or per perhaps a dash of wine, with her
own fair hand. 1t is food and drink,
Aud it is no wonder that in Maiorca the
entire peasantry live sumptuously on
daily wages averaging less than 20 cents
for men and 10 cents for women the year
through, when every manner of nature S
most royal food is at every door for the
taking, and in such bounteousness tina,
where 1t ripens it is yalueless and with
out price.
Somehow there grows upon one the
wlnsome notion that you have known all
these lowly folk before; that you have
| seen their festas and known their songs in
the sunny wales of Cuba, over in the
glowing valley of Guines; that you have
come upon their brightness and cleanli-
| ness among the Alps of Switzerland; that
their generosity and hospitality were
met in Connemara and Donegal: that
NAiOii SuiAib onA II usallly uaN0 IueIr con-
gener among the Pennsylvania Dutch;
and that their love of home and simple
village ways carry you to the pleasant
mountain wales among shining English
| lakes. Surely they are an idyl1ic people
in an idyllic land. Want is unknown:
crime is unheard of. There are no poll
tics in Majorca, and but one religion. All
this in time may change But as / know
1t and you can know il, now, little Major
ca, fashionable in matchIess heauty he.
meath smiling sun, is the one land Of
plenty and content.
EDGAR L. WAKEMAN.