The World. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1891-1896, 1892-12-23
SECRETS OF PERFUMERY.
HOW THE MANUFACTURER GETS
HINTS FROM NATURE.


scents-Odors More Costly Than Gold.
where Musk Comes From-Its Value.
The Ottsr of Roses.
As may be said of many other indus
tries, secrecy characterizes the manufac-
ture OF perfume. In many instances the
heads OF the firms, it is said, themselves
clandestinely prepare the principal parts
OF their compounds. This has resulted
rather disastrously. The few really good
compounders in this country have been
unable to furnish a sufficient supply to
meet the demand, and many pretenders
have entered the field. In this way the
American article has come to be looked
upon with distrust and the French brand
has the call.
Although tho shelves OF q we'll stocked
perfumery bazaar exhibit "extracts OF
almost every flower possessing desirable
odor, yet not more than dozen olo 'soms
are used by the manufacturer. The chief
materials needed are scarcely more than
two Dozens few flowers, few herbs,
few spices and a few balsamic substances.
From these the manufacturer produces
countless varieties, initiating blossoms
which are inaccessible to his hand or re-
fuse to yield their sweets to his most
careful skill. ---.- $50
Take the delicate heliotrope for in
stance. 1t gives fragrance resembling
the aroma OF vanilla combined with the
sharper scent OF the bitter almond. The
heiiotrope itself is both scarce and nn-
profitable to the maker OF perfumes,
while the two latter su distances are easily
obtainable. Taking advantage of the
idea suggested the manufacturer adds to
vanilla tincture q small proportion of
bitter almond ottar and sufficient rose
and orange flower essences to give sweet
ness and floral character to the COM
pound and thus easily makes what is
really an excellent "extract of hello
trope."
Sweet briar Is also q fashionable and
much sought for odor. The perfume of
the sweetbriar itself is so fleeing that no
means yet devised can isolate or imprison
it. But society had to be humored and
the compounder finally hit upon a way
out OF the difficulty. The rose gave him
the foundation. A few other flowers
modified it and dash of verbena created
the artificial essence.
But inventive art reaches still further.
1t creates perfumes by compromising
odors which are unknown in nature.
Almost everybody is acquainted with
Jockey Club" "West End" Nous
selaine," Millefieurs and many other
scents. Yet none of them has counter
part in the flower garden or the spice
grove.
The most pleasing perfumes are those
that are distilled from the living flowers
or the flower of essences. But the public
demands at the same time that they shall |
be lasting. These two conditions will |
not mix naturally, and the manufacturer
inds himself compelled to get the lasting
quality artifcially. This he accomplishes
With musk. In fact, musk is one OF the
most essential as we'll as the most costly
material used in the manufacture of per-
umery, and could not we'll be dispensed
With 1t must be used sparingly, how
sver, as it has powerful medicinal proper,
ties. Too much OF it will induce headache
and cause nervous rrosttation.
Musk is a secretion derived from an
musk deer This secretion
is anything but pleasant to smell in its
crude state. 1t is impc s.be to associate
such foul oder with TIC fragrant smell !
Of distilled perfume. Bat it is only one
RI the many peculierities Of nature.
The musk deer inhabits the great
ranges of Central Asia. 1t is a
pretty creature about three feet long and
standing two feet high. Ths odor of
musk which envelops the deer and fills
the atmosphere is SO strong that it causes
hemorr hayes and even death when |
breathed. The hunters, mostly China
men, cover the lower portion of their
faces with thick cloth as a precaution
against such danger. But even that
ot he
suffer the oftenest, however. When killed
the little sacs, or pods. as they are called |
in the trade, are cut off and dried. This
is the only preparation necessary for
market.
The rods weigh about an ounce and are
worth $40 They are received in this
country packed in little lead lined, silk
covered boxes and each pod is separately
wrapped up in a briG ht colored paper
profusely inscribed with Chinese HERO
glyphics.
Another expensive ingredient needed
in the manufacture of perfume is ottar of
roses. 1t comes in copper canteens which
hold about twenty ounces. They are
valued at 800 apiece. According to Hin
doc tradition the ottar was discovered by
q princess of that country who, while
walking In her garden, through which
ran a canal of rose water, observed some
oily particles floating upon the surface.
These drops were collected and, found TO
possess SO delightful an odor that means
were devised to procure further supplies
OF the precious liquid.
The present supply CT ottar is chiefly
derived from a small tract Of country on
the southern side Of the Balkan Mount
ians, in the Turkish province of Roumella.
IN. Y. Herald.
Novel Profession.
The making of music has always been a
more or less profitable occupation, but it
has never before been known TO take the
exact direction indicated in the card os a