Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-05-21
GIBRALT NORTH AND WEST.

The British authorities enforce strict regula-
tons concerning foreigners. as well as British
subjects. and no foreigner NAV reside in the
city without his consul or q householder be-
coming his security. Martial law is the law Of
the rock, and at sunset the gates of the city
are shut.
The guide books say that the city Of Gibral-
tar Is dull and uninteresting. 1t may be to
people who are accustomed to that sort of a
city, but to an American who is not familiar
with south European customs it is one of the
most interesting places imaginable. The streets
are crooked. steep and narrow narrower, some
OF them, than the streets in the old town OF
Quebec. On only a few OF them are there any
sidewalks. and these are not more than couple
OF feet wide. On either side the streets are
lined with houses that open directly upon the
street without even an apology for front steps.
The houses for the most part made of
bricks, plaster and mud, painted or white
washed. and by no means ambitious from an
architectural point of view. In the shops En-
gl!sh goods have the call in popular favor
though occasionally an American sewing ma
chine or a Connecticut watch or clock may be
seen. In the cafes, too il is ale. beer and stout
that appeal to most palates. though some Of
the more insidious Spanish connections are
not without numerous admirers.
CONTRAST OF RACES.
The most striking feature about life on the
rock of Gibraltar is the curious commingling
and contrast of races. To SEQ young English
girl. stylishly dressed, in proper riding habit
and mounted as if for ride in the Row, brush
ing by dusky Moor from across the straits is
SO common sight that ii causes no remark.
and yet 1t Is a curious One Donkey boys, with
their beasts piled high with charcoal or huge
loads of vegetables, ride side by side through
the narrow streets with the colonel of some
English regiment. brilliant in gold lace and
patent-leather boots. Greeks. Arabs. East In
dams, jew and Gentle, Nubians, black. white
and all the shades that lie between, all here;
indifferent to each other. because to them there
Is nothing novel in the contrast. But to per-
son who sees it all for the first time it is more
than fascinating. Scattered through it all are
the uniforms of the English soldier.
The circumference of the rock which includes
the whole of the British possession. is less than
seven miles. and within the narrow confines of
the city itself Is population of something more
than 5000. To this there must be added the
garrison of about 5000 men. a quarter as many
as compose the entire United States army. This
naturally adds very strong military element to
every phase of the city life. Apparently there
are a score of different uniforms. ranging from
the kits of the highlander to the gaudy red
coat which is usually associated with the Eng
lish soldier. Gibraltar has been called the half
way house between Europe. Africa and Asia,
and the title is by no means inappropriate.
FAMED GIBRALTAR.
In summer it is said to be frightfullv hot here
as there is then comparatively little air blowing,
and the mountain back of the town serves as a
great store house and reflector of heat. just
now. however, the weather is perfect. The sun
shines from n sky without cloud. and in the
broad blaze of the sunlight il IL just little too
warm at times. but in the shade it is cool and
pleasant, and IL the evening an oyercoat is not
out of place.
iSa 10, 10 hor 10
ali the time, and though there is not much to
see in the usual line of cathedrals and public
buildings their place is more than filled by the
fOrtifcationg and n study of the many and
varied phases of military life.
THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR
sticks out in the form of cape into the Medi-
terranean. 1t rises from the water very
abruptly indeed, and offers frowning front to
all the shipping that passes through the Arab
Gate of the Narrow Passage" To the north.
the land end. the rock is even more precipitous,
and descends almost perpendicularly to the level
of the sea. Back of this lies a stretch of per-
fectly level ground, on which the English resi-
dents have built "a race track, and where the
game of cricket is also played. The sea wall
extending all around the point is tremendous
fertilization. armed with heavy batteries at short
distances that command in all directions. and
impress the non-military mind with the firm be-
lief that Gibraltar is an absolutely impregnabie
fortress. Even the neutral ground. narrow
strip that separates the British holdings from
SPAIN is all undermined. or at least that pOr-
tion that belongs to England is, so that it could
be almost instantly submerged. making the APP
proach from the mainland even more unpleas-
ant. When the immensely of the Notifications
Is taken into consideration this really seems q
superf1uous precautiOn, but England has spent
with willing hand on this cherished piece of
and after one has seen Gibraltar
pretty thoroughly it is easy to see how. as is
the case, $50 .G00, 900 have been expended on its
defenses. The rock fairly bristles with 1000
big cannon.