The Republican journal., 1892-08-11
The Sights of d Brazilian City.

,<,IENT SAN SALVADOR AS 1T LOOKS TO-
DAY. EXCURSIONS BY TRAM-CAR.
S1ecial Correspondence of The Journal.
BAHIA, BRAZIL, June ~. The only way
q, enjoy life in this broiling climate is to
initiate the lark and the natives in the
latter of early rising. At the first peep
Id dawn an attendant, who never dreams
rapping on the lockless door, thrusts
inside your mosquito netting the usual
1.sa>uno, first breakfast) which is mere
-,a erusty loaf of bread, the size of your
Isl innocent of butter, and a cup of
.-rona, black coffee without milk or sugar.
The best way to get general idea of this
ieel old town is to spend a day on the
..,ret cars There are three main lines of
AMI way besides several branches, and
n the cars start from the plaza that fronts
Mn hotel. Having partaken of desayuno,
ISL. Nv forth refreshed at what to us seems
Fiji unealthly hour-but lind the whole
Inv astil. 50 inviting is this plaza in the
uI ut the morning-set on the edge of a
tDjI ullHulttl lttl dUONt lllC Ditt/N
..utic - that we are fain to tany
UIilc though every one of its stone
un ecs is already pre- empted 10y an oder
.-nus African whose greasy hide leaks
.~.iration like a sieve Observe how
using sun shoots his first arrows into
M tops Of the palms and mango trees,
lis + .tS 81 IS elm Stp,nI a
lel7 feet and the green lawn that slopes
-r,mces down the hillside. The cnor-
...a> tive-story hotel, with its crowded res
ulmt and noisy billiard room and band
music, looks good deal more attrac-
, At this distance, 10y daylight, than
when one is inside of it, trying vainly to
-rel in the sma hours amid ceaseless
D5ct and confusion. Early as it is,
Inc of porters with their curtained
5Anquins have collected near the main
s-rauce and everybody who energies is
..,.ted hy cries of ''Have a chair, Sen
MS This is the best sedan, Senhora.
Next 10 the hotel are Bahia' two news
l,tr offices. in such friendly juXtaposi-
III hat it is difficult to tell where one
-ius and the other ends, although the
.s editors are said to be such bitter
r,nies that they occasionally indulge in
,-U practice with one another heads
rita target Just beyond is one of the
-, = most notable institntions-tl old
Al i,.J tbn hlir
barry. In Il charming oblong room over
King the ocean. whose windows admit
The breezes that are blowing and whose
ne vet CLOVIS with softly brilliant
has painted by monks more than two
-tures ago. are some thirty thousand
Il ues The books are mostly in French
u Portuguese, but there are few large
i .l very costly medical works in the Rus
u iA language, (printed in st. Petersburg
i GutAcrs in German devoted TO the doin@s
j The Dutch in Brazil. In the early
Ang. the long reading table in the
Nd Of the department is generally
II aided by the college students. but at
r. times is quite deserted, and lis dim
e>srs have turn ished MS 4 pleasant Re-
l. place on many hot afternoons when
noisy hotel became uncomfortable. Close
l.e library is a medical school and it
SIT Las a tine collection of books. Adj
H4 the college is m extensive military
II ,tal in charge OF the Sisters OF Mercy;
ii the dead house is conveniently near
II the disposition of the mistakes OF
ii eng doctors who here acquire EEK
II ncuce.'
II a another side o1 the plaza is Bahia S
Is tlltater-a huge. rude building which
4 s, outside like a mammoth stable; but
Interior is quite respectable, as we
med last night by going to hear Dona
II aajta for perhaps the ainetieth time
t--5t Spanish opera OF which the natives
II fig. lire. There are four tiers of boxes,
n Nh a larger and more handsomely deco
Il fed one in the center for the President
II Gove1nor) OF the province. Its great
II el is adorned with paintings by Brazil
masters and from it one may step out
a narhle-paved portico which com
oudS a wide view OF the bay and ocean.
reetv i'll front of the theater is a mar
statue of Columbus, who is here call
Iristofao Colon: and around him are
A-cd half "A dozen water basins, from
Il 49!. negroes are all day filling their lit
II rta>kso
FIRST let us take the tram that runs al
s. due south along the edge of the cliff,
i '' a we'll paved road which is lined by
ME of Bahias finest residences The
oS Of quaint architecture are all em
~nred i'll bloom; here Glove and CHINA
on and bread fruit trees flourish to per
i gJlon, pepper trees beautify the land
II APE with their long, pendant clusters of
'e-Pink berries; the jaca and cocoanut
apps aunt their green plumes above an
mite variety of tropical vegetation. In
ttIe more than half all hour we reach
at fashionable seaside resort known as
NimmellU, where most of the foreign
live IL cottages clustered around the
gAtAouse and the big hotel. The beach
this point is literally covered with a
ri,..l