Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-09-03

Indeed. the changes that fashion brings this
fall seem to be much more in the materials than
in the making of gowns and wraps. The wraps
little longer and little more shapeless
and the dresses have altered hardly at all in
sryle. rumor to the effect that sleeves were
10 be tight once more has been proved to be
Incorrect by the first installment OF imported
costumes. which seem to have sleeves rather
fuller than smaller than hitherto. They are
often OF different color and material from the
waists, usually matching the waist coat or trim
ming Of the gown. The skirts Nre all bell
shaped still. but those of walking dresses are
of a more sensible length. barely touching the
ground instead of dragging several inches
through dust and dirt. Large fancy buttons
are to be much used in trimming.
saw a lot of brocaded satins and velvets ves-
terday that are soon TO be upon the shelves of
one of the largest and most famous dry goods
shops IN New York and among them all was
hardly one that did not call forth the mental
exclamation How very uglyl They varied in
price from IS to S1S per yard
FOR STREET COSTUMES.
Among the materials most used for street cos
tunes during the coming winter will be black
satin or silk or a combination of both. with col
ored figures or flowers stripes upon il. One
of the new importations in this style a
black MORE antique cotelee. with Pekin stripes
of green or yellow. Among other novelties
a gray damss broche. which literally
sprinkled with brocaded confetti in red. pink
and yellow. II really looked as il little candies
had been strewn over the silk and was curious.
If by no means beautiful.
Most of the new brocades have small designs
by the way. except in the case of palm leaves
A dark blue changeable silk showing green in
the folds was brocaded in a small red figure. A
satin de LYON ombre red and blue had wide
shaded stripe of different browns. most
gorgeous affair was a silk and Scotch plaid very
large and with the green and blue enlivened
with plenty Of golden yellow.
SATIN AND LATTICE WORK.
"yelours pointelle" is the name given to a
satin over which runs close lattice-work de-
sign in velvet of a contrasting color-say brown
blue. A ''velours ombre'' in green and
blue and brown shaded changeable stripes was
really a beautiful thing. although one would
not care to have a dress of II. The brilliant
plumage of the peacock's tail is initiated in the
colors Of another shaded velvet. and third is
striped with narrow threads of gold. satin
ombre in shades running from green to brown
had velvet design in cachemere colors bro
caded upon il.
''Epingle' velvet is the name of another new
weave. IL 10 an uncut velvet coming for the
most part in the fashionable yellowish greens
''Velours de Nord'' looks very like plush. 1t
comes In several colors and is ombre like
most of the new velvets and silks and comes
with wide Bayardere stripes well calculated to
make all short women look rs badly possible.
These stripes also appear in many of the silks
and satins.
FASHIONABLE GREENS.
Among the new and fashionable greens are
"Gourka," .'feuillage," ''asperge," "tilleul' ia
very yellowish green. moss, melon, .'gros
vert, myrtle, yesuve, Nil and parme. Other
popular shades are ,.iabac, gre grenat. sap
PhIre. marine, plum, maroon" apricot.
"Ophelie" "a reddish heliotrope) and orange.
rs well as the combination of colors that APP
pear in Indian shawls.
For the evening have been imported a great
variety of brocaded eameleon aud ombre satins
and MORE antiques. A yellow damask had a
large design Of white orange blossoms. a pearl
gray cameleon was brocsded in large palm
leaves filled with white mistletoe and q blue one
had the same palm leaves filed with morning
giories. pink Pekin nacre had changeable
velvet stripes OF darker shades Pink and
melon stripes Of satin made brilliant a pale
blue Pekin Victorian. Very CAV was q white
satin and silk in stripes divided by golden
yellow threads and decorated with punches of
many-colored flowers in natural eolors. A
changeable velours glace Of Nile and dark
greens had a deep border OF palm leaves i'll
the brilliant oriental colors. Ii was not pretty.
bat we might get used TO it IN time.
SILK GRESADISE INSTEAD OF NETS.
was told at the lace department that no nets
are being sold this fall except few to visitors
from the south and west. but silk grenadine has
taken its place to some extent. One Of the
newly imported Partisan gowns was OF black
crepe grenadine with narrow Bayardere stripes
OF pink satin. The bell SKIRT was made per
fectly plain with q short train. The bodice was
short and was finished In the back with a pink
cord ct the belt while the front had q painted
Swiss waist. each plait outlined with pink silk
eording. The full sleeves had tight-itting satin
cuffs to the elbows.
THE PRINCESS STYLE
ts still most popular. and many dresses made in
H.
One reception gown in this fashion was of
pinkish heliotrOpe poult do sole brocaded in
small straw-cOlOred and pink flowers with green
leaves The back had a Vatican plated train
Irish guipure fell over the hips and hung in
soft full folds upon the shoulders The front
was also trimmed with the lace ruft'es combined
with lridescent passementerie
very neat little gown was Of black MORE
antique with narrow blue silk puff TO outline
the bottom of the slightly trained skirt headed
with gold and jet gimp. The short basque was
trimmed with reyers Of blue silk edged with
the gimp, and the blue waistcoat was draped i'm
black guipure lace. The sleeves also had cuffs
OF the blue silk.
Jet nail heads we're the decorations used on n
h.n-colored velvet walking dress. The basque
had black velvet yoke and narrow pointed
vest outlined with large nail heads. The front
OF the bell-shaped skirt covered with nail
heads. very small at the waist and growing
gradually larger until the hem was reached
"nere gets tne SIZE OF u zo-cent piece were used.
WRAPS FOR WINTER.
Some OF the new winter wraps will come to
the bottom Of the skirt A very handsome
garment Of this sort Was of rich black velvet
With tight-ftting back finished with Vatican
piait- The long fronts, edged with sable and
ornamented at the waist with four large Rhine
stone and gilt buttons, hung open over a short
vaistcoas OF the velvet embroidered in gray
salk and gold Large pockets Of the embi oidery
we're on the hips and black MORE ribbon gave q
finish 10 the collar.
SEAMLESS JACKETS.
Very stylish indeed was . black serge iacke,
made loose and without seams, with the sxcep-
tion Of those under the arms and two on the
shoulders. The front was trimmed with large
black buttons covered with fligree Of gold.
But il was the full sleeves that gave It's char
sessr 70 the coat. They we're Of black satin
with wide stripes. In which appeared bright
blue. green. yellow, mahogany and red. The
collar was Of the new and popular shape, some
what rolling and cut in squares, q II Marie
Louise. Black MORE and satin ribbon with
long ends finished the jsunty Jacket ct the
neck
Apressy nttle opera ears was OF opal velvet
trimmed with deep inserting over . rum Of
Iytsh gui2urs. 4 MARRIED feature Of the new