Omaha daily bee., 1892-01-31

fellow to me, and after the latter had ON.
braced my still trembling knees. Dobrado
said alphabetically but laconically:
VI feared would not meet him, senor He
Is my kinsman. from Mondonedo, beside the
Ria de Foz. You know the Galegans 20
wherever there is money for toll. He is
half-time portero and half-time does some
service Tor merchant here who has traffio
with Valladolid" And then, hesitantly
"Perhaps senior could find himself useful in
TangierP'
Back Windows of Foreign Life.
''Senor'' could and did. "Senor," the
writer, shuns great hotels in his wanderings;
loves to know the lowly, and, from their
standpoint of thinking, feeling and condi-
tion, TO thus look through the back windows
OF foreign life and ways
No one can wholly tell another what Tan
gier Is like within Its ancient city walls. 1t
has no street geography. Though il contains
scarcely 10000 souls, its own inhabitants get
LOST within 1t; and there is but one street or
way in which the stranger Is sufe from abso-
lutte wreck Of consciousness of location. This
extends upward from the harbor side TO the
Socde Barra, the great outside market place
OF Tangier, Just where you leave the city on
the way to Fez Morocco's capital. Once q
dozen yards away from this narrow thorough.
fare OF bazaars, and the prompting to prayer
to Allah or Allah's subjects for succor is q
quickly realized experience
But for Dobrado and his kinsman, / should
haye turned back, passed the night outside
the great city gate upon the shore beneath
the stars and some handy tarpaulln, and In
contnently fed the place upon the next days
steamer for Gibraltar. AS 1T was, I
evening, had fallen before we had en-
tered the CITY. The single thorough
fare was babel of donkeys, camels,
goats, water carriers, bare legged African
soldiers and merchants closing their tiny
shops. The din of "balakl-balak !-balak y,
the equivalent for our "look outl' shrieked
by thousands of voices in the choky chasm-
IKE street, was dearening. Scores of times
against buildings, wedged between camels
or flung into pitch black archways
After an hours struggle, we turned from
this main thoroughfare and plunged In and
that opposing walls could be touched by
outstretched hands. The silence here was
as Startling as had been the din. Now and
then perhaps, ghostly figure fitted by
sound Of water from overfowing fountains.
Occasionally mutfied form asleep beneath
an archway was stumbled upon. Not Q
light was seen In the whole distance. But
Tor the stars overhead II was like gropinR
torchless through the catacombs.
In the Land OF the Moors.
At last DoDrado's kinsman halted. With
the hilt OF his heavy knife, almost as ponder
Gus as a Cuban machete, he knocked loudly
upon barred and bolted door A black faoe
peered savagely from tiny wicket. There
was parley which sounded like mixture of
the Romany tongue and GallegaD Spanish.
The wicket closed and soon an old man clad
In flowing robes, attended by the African, re-
turned. We were admitted TO what seemed
the dungeon antechamber to larger dun
geon. Directly Dobrado's kinsman showed
the way up some slippery stone stops. Fol.
lowing long. gallery we soon emerged into
the open air. Thence we were con-
Quoted along what appeared TO be Q
crumbling parapet, and l was finally
led into room perfectly bare
Of furniture. The place seemed TO be do
tached structure set upon a housetor, abut-
ting against the walls Of stll loftier abode.
Some fine rugs were brought for pallet.
The African almost soon appeared with
cut brass lamp, cup OF tea, In which mint
leaves were floating and small roll of white
bread. He deposited these IN the middle OF
the floor and disappeared. Dobrado who
was to pass the night with his kinsmen,
showered tho blessings of God upon me and
left. relished my food, put out my antique
lamp, wrapped myself In my splendid rugs,
and passed my first night In the land OF the
Moors IN sweet aud dreamless sleep
EDGAR l.. WAKEhAA