davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03

Caller-And this ia the new baby!
Fond Mother-Isn't he splendid?
Galleries., Indeed.
Fond Mother-And 80 bright! See how
intelliRently he breathes!-Amsrican h.
brew.
Louisville has a girl preacher" AGED IA,
whose professional card bears the legend.
sunday meetings for men only" says tho
indianapolis journal. weekly meetings
open to both sexes. (Plenty of fans and
ice w~ate.)" This parenthetic bit of infor-
nation leads to the inference that she
makes 1t warm for her hearers. and sun
ports the assertion Of her admirers that her
evanRelistic power is truly wonderful. The
phenomenon's mother travels with her, but
1t does not appear whether or mot that
lady's sense OF proprietv permits her to be
present at the meetings for men only.
| hate to forget it; 'twere sweet TO pos-
How surely l know it-that loving caress,
But. though fain would l kiss her. Pm
forced to decline.
For the lips that touch pug dogs shall
never touch mine.-New York Herald.
The result in recent British elections vas
the strength and influence of the ~"cyli.t,,
vote. The Bicyclist Touring club, which
numbers 10000 members, with officers in
every town and village, put forth strenuous
efforts to obtain from each parliamentary
candidate a pledge to vote in favor of max
ing the carrying of lights by ali vehicles At
night compulsory. Many a close contest
was decided on this point, for there are half
a million riders of bicycles in the United
Kingdom and Lord Albemarls has UNDER
taken to raise the question in the house Of
lords. There il = precedent here that will
probably not be lost sight of BY American
wheslmen. And considering the general
character OF bicycle riders q law favored bv
the l.. A. w. of America ought to DO a GOOD
law indeed.
A woman not 1000 miles from Richmond
was. without doubt, the most Hurried female
last Sunday in seven counties when shs
discovered, after cOmino ont of church that
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03

Bro TIMBER is notified that entries
for the capital race will close Sept. l.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03

A woman not 1000 miles from Riebmond
was without doubt, the most Hurried female
last sunday in seven counties when she
discovered, after coming out of church, that
her brand new hat was adorned with q tao.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03
G eu0nd National Bank

econd National Bank
OF HELENA MONT
PAID UP CAPITAL. a7.onn
SURPLUS AND PROFITS. @26,ooo
= 0aneral Banking Busines.
Iransacted.
4 z SMn,sEERToN. rr..,a..,
' ssssSaAfsaf 1 aa GssRR ~, 1855; =. J s:;s.:::
noara = D,rsa.ors.
I. y s; sslls 8 |. 3 8, J s.::s
=: = aa'':'e.' CO... 5 81, Jsi 81 IT,
he American National
BANK. On HELENA-
CAPITAL. s2oo.ooo
I. q POWER p,..,a.A
AZ. sEIIaMAn ue.Prss,a...
A. G. JOHNSON. Cashie,.
GEO ]. COPE Assistant Cs.Aien
i j ESM : Rio 4: ssspi t :
James Sullivan.
Interest allowed on time dsposita Exchane,
Issued on principal cities Of the United statea
Canada and Europe. Transfers Of money mado
BY tai graph. Collections promptly attended to !
City. county and state aecurities BOUGHT and sold
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03
\ II Merchants National Bank


OF HELENA. NONE
UNITED STATES DEPOSITORY.
Paid in Capital, e35O.OOo:
Surplus and Profits. $4,000.
l. II. HERsHFIELD, President.
4. J. DAVIDSON. Vioe-Prss; Sann
AARON HERSHFIELD, Cashias.
Board Of Dirsot0rss
Thomas Cruise, III. Sands.
;, Auntley. 4. X. PRESCOTT
4 =. Davldsons Moses Morris.
l. l.. dershhelA Aaron Hershfeld,
J. 6witzer.
First. class City, county and 6tate 4eourit,n.
bought and sold. ~
Exchange issued on the principal cities Of the
United States and Europa Transfers of money
made BY telegraph. "
Interest allowed on time deposits. Collections
promptly attended to.
Boxes for rent 1t reasonable prices In one Of
the best constructed fire and burglar proof safe
Seposit vaults in the countrH
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03

Caller-And this ia the new baby!
Fond Mother-Isn't he splendid?
Galleries., Indeed.
Fond Mother-And 80 bright! See
in~telliRently he Observation-Disclosures
brew.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1892-08-03

The Oldest fruit and Prof. , TOO,
duce House in Montana. 5 he'"oi'sneo 1853
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

armures are made up in the ever popular
iour-in-hand and puff shapes, the former
being preferable for deep mourning, re-
curing no pin.
Jewelry. except what is absolutely neces-
sary. is tabooed. \ black silk watch guard
is better form than chain. and 1t IS de-
batable whether the usual plain gold studs
and sleeve buttons are better taste than
the black ones. whether OF onyx or en-
amei. For a widOwer there is something
anonymous In the glitter of gold, and the
black studs and sleeve buttons seem more
consistent; but for heavens sake don't
wear black jet or onyx watch chain, they
make the gods weep. And. by the way, a
velvet collar on the oyercoat is not mourn
ing, nor this garment made of brown and
blue chinchilla, however dark; neither are
black satin ties, nor a brown derby with
band Oh Il, which last eyesore Is not in
frequent. 1t would be impossible in the
limits of this article TO enumerate the var
lous solecisms of fashion even wcll-in-
formed men commit in wearing mourning.
Only a few general rules can be given, and
you do the rest.
1t is. however, in the matter of gloves
that men err most frequently. Most men
hate a black glove, buy pair for the
funeral, wear them till worn out and then
buy their tavorite color. They must,
however, in wearing the deeper grades
Va wear olily DidCk ElONcS
for one year. or go bare-handed, a mechan
ic-like alternative, but tar better than to
don pumpkin-colored dogskins or even
brown ones. As fashion, however. is
great, so also is she merciful, and at the
end OF the year very dark tan may be
permitted; another instance of those I'M
written laws which smooth the way of
man.
And now, having exhausted deep mourn
ing let me consider what might be called
"mitigated grief
Under this head also ] may consider
collateral sorrow, that for all the less near
degrees of kindred. After the first year
the band may be lowered, and clothes of
various black and gray mixtures be worn.
Ties of pure white, black and
white and vice versa are permissible.
but mourning must be lett
OIL gradually, so that the readopton of
colors be most imperceptible. Lavender,
hellotrope and gray are allowed In scarfs.
though a mans individual taste may be
followed in this respect. What is said of
second or half-mourning is applicable TO
'complimentary" mourning-a despicable
term, but | know no other. In deep
mourning, for three months at the very
least, men should attend no theaters,
business or festivities requiring a dress
suit. After that time he may, if he cares
to, and should wear black tie of dull silk.
Satin is never mourning. His jewelry IN
full dress should be the white enamel so
generally worn. There is something abso-
lutely CHASTITY in seeing man arrayed for
q function with such grave-like sugges
tons as black jewery about him.
The simple and beautifully pathetic
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

little lady who wore it, as she fitted about
in her hat parlor, made the room all warm
with color and life, for the ribbons were
deep rich crimson.
Still another had two wide ribbon bands
from shoulder to bottom of skirt, with
large bow on shoulder and q larger one at
the bottom, fastening it to the lace ruiiie OF
the gown.
But when / saw the one 1 am going 10
describe now, the others faded from my
mind and left this one in full possession OF
all my admiration and delight; for 1T was
so very dainty. The dress was almost
concealed by the long lace polonaise when
covered it. The ribbon arrangement was
the same both back and front. Four
long loops fell from each shoulder. TWO
back and two front, and from under
these loops came two bands on each side
that ran down to the waist, narrowing
off as they went until they were only
points. The lace was gathered rather full
at the waist and hips and was caught
down at regular intervals all the way
round by long, graceful bows cut at the
ends INTO very deep scallops. The sleeves.
which were simply big puifs of lace, were
gathered up in two places by bands OF the
ribbon and two long loops hanging there
from. No ends. Her little lace hat was
also well adorned with these small loops.
One more arrangement must | describe
to you on costume in gold brown. The
ribbons were creamy yellow and melted
tremendously into the brown. The bands
were quite broad and ran straight up and
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15
THE MOURNING STYLES FOR HATBASDs.

principally upon how much they leave.
the mourning, especially for mothers-in-
law. Any man, however, who honors his
wife, will show her deceased parents the
same respect he would his own, and moth
ing could possibly appear in worse taste
than to see a woman in all the trappings
of woe while her husband disTegards the
custom entirely.
For round-topped Derbys the band for
wife and all the closer kinships must be as
high as the shape permits. For the other
ties Of kindred it can be about half way to
the top. The square-topped Derbys are
regulated exactly IS the high hats.
IL deep mourning the rough cheviots,
and any all-black goods: but more partic-
ularly the rough woolens, are in good
taste There should be no deviation from
the rule of all black for one year; after
that the band may be lowered and fancy
trouserings in gray and black, and goods
with 4 mixture OF these cOlors may be
adopted.
Beau Hrunmell was once asked what
was the distinguishing characteristic Of a
gent!eman's attire, and he replied: Good
linen, plenty Of it, and country washing"
and good linen, plepty of it, and pure
white is essential III mourning. Nothing
is 50 suggestive Of cake walk rs black
and white shirt, an DOM be deluded into
considering it mourning. Handkerchief
should also be pure white; the black Dor
derel affairs, permissible 10 women. are
denominations when carried by men. They
are extremes. and extremes are always
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

ousiy clean kid gloves. After D'Utassy
came TO this country he paid some
attention to Wall street, and made and
Of the war he entered the Union army
as colonel OF New York regiment, and
did good service III the Valley of Virginia.
He was gallant soldier and an intrepid
fighter, had proved his mettie on many
battiefields before volunteering his services
to the United States army, and yet
charge of cowardice was made against
him. | am not certain as to the battle. In
any event, it was the subject of an ey-
haustlve Investigation, which is set forth
IN detail in the army records. The charge
seems to have resulted from ignorance
or malice. and an examination of the evil
dence leaves no stain upon D'Utassy'5
reputation as Z man or soldier. Be-
fore the close of the war he was
breveted brigadier general After the
war and up to the time of his death he
had engaged successfully in the insurance
business. General D'Utassy died of con-
gestion of the brain, the result of inhaling
illuminating gas. Hanging his umbrella
on the gas bracket on retiring at hotel in
Wilmington. the supposition Is that the
inside blinds on the window swung back,
turned on. He was found next day at [
O'Clock, and although he lived until the
second day he did not regain conscious
ness; and so the soldier and gentle friend
for he was all that was gentle and loving
in man-slept the sleep of the just.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

mourning of the soldier and sailor, the
black band on the coat sleeve, has some
thing infinitely touching about it, and APP
peals to ones sense Of the fitting more,
perhaps, than the trailing weeds that
women wear or the crow-like attire of men,
but We have not as yet arrived at any such
simple solution of the problem of black,
and as the etiquette of mourning now
stands it should be respected. 1t is, after
all, a matter of sentiment, above all a mat
ter of good feeling Precise rules are i'm
possible to formulate, and its depth and
duration must depend on individual
taste. Above all, no man should be judged
harshly for any deviation from the Gus
tom. even though he might show better
taste by conforming to it.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

bow at the top. and it formed three loose
puffs in the sleeve by contning the lace at
intervals. Even the high collar had a tiny
edge OF it and a small BOW ut one side.
A tail and stately dame was adorned IN
truly regal fashion. The ribbon she had
selected was soft and wide and changeaole.
1t started at each shoulder with smal
bow, and out from each small bow came
long, imposing bow, the ends On when
cut in deep VS., fell to the lady's feet. Inc
loops came down only two-thirds or me
way. They were caught at the waist under
a broad belt.
Then I saw a pretty house dress all
adorned with ribbons. Fastened at each
shoulder the narrow bands slanted until
they met in V just above the waist,
where they crossed. and fell in long bow
at the back Then two long ends hung
from the waist in front-one on each side
and were knotted third way down into
four small loops These loops were on the
bands that crossed the bodice, also fastened
on near the shoulder. Bows with long
fiuttering ends hung from each cuf. The
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15
THE MAN OF FASHION.
Mourning Styles for the Society
Gentlemen in Black"
THE BOMBAzINE BAND.
Jack Astor in Btack-The Proper Neck
tie and Gloves for Persons Who
Have Been Bereaved.

New York, May O. - Special Core
spondence. With the death of William
Astor one of the first families of the land
has retired from social life for q year or
more, and ii may interest the man of fash
ion to know how John Jacob Astor. the
heir, appears in gentleman's mourning
garb, and how the remainder of the family
will follow the dictates of society in this
regard.
The band of fine bombazine comes with
in half an inch of the top of Mr.. Astor's
nigh hat, and that, it may be said, is de
rigueur. For year the band will be worn
at this height, then it may be worn lower
or removed altogether and replaced by
the staid black ribbon and bow.
1T is almost impossible III this coun-
try" says an authority, where there are
no hereditary customs, to lay down exact
laws either as to the length of the period
during which the mourning should be
worn, or as to the extent to which 1t
should be assumed. There is, however. q
certain etiquette of mourning, which,
while not as arbitrary as the French code,
(Which declares widow must don weeds
for one year and six weeks exactly), is
usually followed in this country. where
most of the customs are borrowed
from the English. 1t would be interesting
in this connection to know how the ar
bitter of English fashion, the Prince of
Wales attires himself for the Duke OF
Clarence. His mourning is, of course
much modified by the exigencies of his
position, but il is safe to assert that it is
distinguished by that perfection of detail,
that faultlessness OF selection that shows
the perfect gentleman.
"The laws governing the depth of the
band on the hat have become mathemati-
caliy exact, and 1t is the first article of at
tire to consider in this connection. For
deep mourning for the day of the funeral,
for church, for all occasions except busi-
ness and travelling, the high hat is in style.
For the widower, the band of fine bonn
bazine comes to within one-quarter of an
inch from the top. For the father or
mother, one-half an inch from the top.
For brother or sister or grown child. three
and one-half inches from the brm; and
for an aunt, uncle or collateral relation,
three and one-half inches up from the rim.
"The widower. and the man wearing the
band for father or mother, should wear it
unaltered for at least year; after that
period, according to individual taste. it
may be lowered"
The same rule holds good for the band
worn for brother or sister, one year being
the proper duration of deep mourning.
For aunts, uncles, cousins and collateral
relations the period varies from three to
six months, according to the degree of in
timacy and affection existing between the
dead and bereaved.
In complimentary" mourning, ghast-
ly term used to donate that worn for
parents-In-law, the rule is the same as
for the closer and truer kinship. The
mourning for parents-in-law is. how
ever, purely arbitrary, and depends
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

doings of these secret sessions of the
senate have always found their way
INTO print whenever the subject was of
sufficient consequence to excite public
curiosity. The newspaper men recognized
the fact that whenever they wanted to
know OF the transactions of an executive
session there were certain senator's who
could be depended upon to furnish the re-
CURED information. Recently it ronped
INTO the head of Senator Hale of Maine to
hasten the responsibility of a certain leak
upon Mr.. Young, the clerk. WITHOUT
giving the accused the slightest hearing or
investigation he was dismissed from his
place and branded "a a discarded and I'M
trustworthy employe. The proceedings
were as arbitrary and as brutal as
though the United States Senate were
"Nehm-tiericht," or branch of
the Carbonari. Mr. Young is naturally
smarting under this indignity. because
be knows his absolute ability to es-
tabiIsh his innocence in the case made
against him. In fact, the newspaper
correspondent who obtained the contra
oand news IN question has placed in
Mr. 1oung's hands the name of the
senator who furnished him with his
material. AT the same time Mr.. Young
IS unable apparently to exonerate himself.
because the jury which convicted him
without testimony refuses to hear him
1he representatives OF the press of the
United States in Washington City have
moved III tnis matter. and propose to see
that justice is done their brother The
chief instigator of this outrage upon man.
hood and personal rights is the ignoble
senator from Maine, Mr.. Eugene Hale.
Some years ago, when in the House, Hale
was man of activity and promise without
any great amount of brains When Han
nibal Hamlin left the Senate he was
chosen TO succeed him. and since that
time he has cut no figure whatever in ma
tional affairs. OF late years his habits
have grown somewhat convivial, though
his fondness for ardent spirits mas added
nothing to his sociability. As a matter
OF fact, Mr.. Hale is more or less
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

of ribbons from our bonnets and another
five or six here and there from our gowns.
So perhaps we're not so very foolish after
all. Even our extrayagances work good
instead of mischief, although perhaps only
incidentally.
The summer girl must csptivate, and
how can she captivate If she is not be-
witching? and how can she be bewitching
if there is nothing about her that attracts,
that catches and holds the eye some little
oddlty or innovation that pleases and
charms? And in ribbons she finds such
broad field of labor; there is no end to the
variety of arrangement. And the summer
girl, knowing full well the thrill Of pleas
ure that every true man feels when bit
of his lady loves ribbon Autters around
his ears or caresses his cheek. or touches
gently his hand-welcomes the ribbon fad
with open arms.
How many quaint arrangements Of rib
bon have I seen this last week. One
started under the right arm and ran across
both back and front in long diagonal IN
til il reached the bottom Of the skirt at
the other side and knotted loosely
Another came from under each arm and
/ was brought around TO the back OF the
bodice. in the center of each side, down TO
the ed ge of the waist. Then Il was carried
m almost 10 the neck and tied IN a DOW
with very long ends. Another went round
the waist simply and tied in the old
fashioned way in great long bow.
Another arrangement was on dainty
dress of violet crepe and lace. The violet
ribbon was laid in three bands over the
full lace ruffie g, the bottom of the skirt.
II edged the bodice also, and formed the
dividing line between the coEsage ard the
lace yoke, adorned in the center with
bow. Around each arm II Was tied With q
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15

of RAILWAYS. IL has a splendid and mag
nitcently equipped line ont OF Ne" OK
Il PHILADELPHIA, Washington City and the
West. and with its new leases II vii! soon
be connecting with Boston by way OF me
great Poughkeepsie bridge Controlling
as it does the hard coal output Of Eastern
Pennsylvania. IL has now reinvlted the
hostile rivalry of the great pennsylvania
COMPANY, and a fight OF much import
Gnce and great magnitude IS imminent.
NJ. Mcleod seems 20 combine all inc
managerial qualities Of the late Tom scott
with 1ne reserve strength ot uehe ~
Grant. He moves on their works as the
general did. and his motto rs evidently
Push Things" He - evidently going 10
live IN our history as one OF the grealeS.
railway NaroleOns Of the times or lie WI!
score 2 monumental failure. Ihere Wlii
he no middle ground with him; but with
such an organization behind hun as ne
has there y no likelihood OF failure.
At tins same dinner | saw, ioy the hrst
tine in ten wears ex-senator Edmunds, OF
} Vermont. The retired statesman shows
his age IN the most marked manner lie
WAS highly battered when the chairman,
Mr.. John Russell Young, presented MN
10 the company IS the ahleSt ana S4oSeSt
counsellor than General Grant had during
his occupancy OF the White House. The
speech of the old gentleman, which was
heartfelt tribute to General Grant, could
not be head ty one-thlrd of the company
present and was very little above medl-
ocrity in character. The speech OF the
evening was made ny John :. Wise, VINO
rebelled in 1851. and has since been thor
oGgAly forgiven
Dar.u, this visit - Philadelphia had =
chat Wl:h Mr.. James l.. Young. late execu-
tive clerk OF the United states Senate and
latest victim OF thar autocratIc and some
what irresponsible body. For fifteen years
Mr.. Young was connected with the Senate
IN clerical capacity. \ great portion OF
that time he had charge of the documents
and affairs OF the executive session
most responsible junction. The
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-05-15
WOMAN OF FASHION.
Looks Into Bewildering Mezes Of thu
Ribbon Question.

New YORK, May O. Special Correspond
ence. oh, dear, what tiutter OF ribbons
What flying, and tossing, and craving
and wild confusion of ribbons! What
does it all mean, this mess of streamers
that flies in every ones face, that mixes
itself confusedly with other streamers as
they pass? 1t means, for one thing, that
the ribbon trade is prosperous. Men may
talk about the extravaganza and utter use
lessness of this inconvenient appendix to
a woman's toilet, but there is a large class
Of people who are devouty thankful for it;
for the silk trade has advanced immensely
since we have taken to floating three yards