The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-10-03

fancy. FelomS RuSss, its newest illustra-
tration, shows silk foundation, on
which velvet threads arc so closely
woven that chaugeable shades just
glimmer through the yelvety surface in
most charming color combinations.
This lovely material varies in price
from So to 81 per yard, and will be COM
bined with plain velvet. Wool plaids
are also in changeable hues and it may
OF plaids is on the increase. Robe pat
terms arc again very stylish, borders
now extending all around the skirt.
Rraiding, applique patterns, alternate
figures OF jet or steel beads. or Russian
bands are favorite ornamentations. A
handsome border is n wide Russian
band, varied by half circles Of shaded
plush ut intervals OF about foot apart,
thus avoiding monotonous appear
ance. A narrow beaver fur edging on
both sides, OF Russian bands is also
fashionable. Another robe style has a
bell skirt already shaped; ono seam ut
the back, with narrow applique
border in three bright colors around
the skirt and three frills for a small
cape, just reaching the shoulders. Cuffs,
collar and beltare included with similar
bordering.
FAtLLI FRANCHISE
and bengaline de pose, in both large
and small cords, are the seasons stand
ard silks, combined with velvet or fancy
silks for day or evening wear. 0nduie,
bdydcrc, MORE, satin, changeable, chew
ron, wide or narrow stripes constitute
the motif, from which emanate an Him
table variety OF rich fancy goods, form
ing entire costumes or used in combi-
nation. Changeable velvets are su-
perb, rejecting numerous shades Of
two colors in one width. Plaided vel
vets are equally handsome, being re-
production OF the large plaids described
in preceding letter. Five brilliant
colors are combined in some cases, and
it is scarcely possible to convey an ade-
quate idea Of their richness and beauty.
0mbrc velvets are as beautiful in an
other style as those already mentioned.
On changeable satin surface are deli
cate scroll patterns OF velvet, always in
contrasting shades with slender velvet
cords connecting the intervening spaces
between the figures, making an open,
yetirregular network, bringing out the
colors in most effective manner.
CRIMSON DRESSES
will be worn in the street during the
coming season, and dark crimson
wool rep costume made bell skirt,
slashed hall way up at back, front and
sides, edged by narrow fur trimming,
shows crimson velvet underskirt.
The waist is crimson velvet "Eton"
Jacket, with close-titting vest and
sleeves OF similar material trimmed
throughout with colored passementerie.
There is nothing particularly new in
corsages, except that an effort is being
made to introduce Empire styles; but
as the fall fashions show continuance
OF long waists, the R. & 6. is undoubt-
eddy the corset OF the hour, being so
graceful in its outlines that those who
understand the true art Of dress, prefer
it above all others. Silk waists have
proved so desirable that they are
brought ont i'll bright Scotch and other
plaids for winter without skirts aud
gathered to pointed velvet band.
Trimmings do not present my special
novelties, fur, velvet, Russian bands,
braiding, jet or metal passementeries
being most in demand.
SHORT cArEs
composed OF three frills are shown for
carly fall wear in crimson, tan, blue or
black, usually finished Off around the
neck by box plated satin ribbon with
or without long ends, tisd in IA bow at
the throat. Long capes are again
shown; very similar to those OF last
season, with the difference that collars
and sleevSa arc no longer high. Jackets
are three quarter length or oven more (;
generally half tight at the back with
loose fronts, sometimes belted across or
having braided or fur trimmed vests
Smooth finished beaver in green, blue,
tan or black, and also rough goods in
these shades arc the materials most
employed. Velvet, plush, fur, jet or
metal passcmenteries are foyorite trim
mings, and an especial novelty are vel
vet Zouave or Elton jackets, worn over
beaver coats adjustable in some cases
and always trimmed around the edges
Another novelty is tho Watteau plat
on Jackets, often covered with braiding
or passementerie. Sleeves are very
large, loose to the elbow or a little
lower, then close fitting, and may be OF
velvet, plush or fur, according to the
individual fancy. Collars are moder-
ately high, modification Of the Medici,
and rolling collars arc usually fur
trimmed.
OSTRICH FEATHERS AND AIdRETTEs
were never in greater demand, as vel
vet bows in Alsatian style are SO much
employed that trimmings are apt to
look heavy OF monotonous, and tips or
aigrettes impRrt the desired variety or
lightness. Plaided velvets make gay
company folds or "donkeys ears" for
young peoples hats, and very large
gilt, steel or rhinestone buckles are seen
on hats OF every description. Turkey
tail feathers or quill feathers stuck
through velvet bows arc very stylish,
particularly so nj the side OF an Alpine
felt for general morning wear. Light
colors are fashionable, ana a white ielt
trimmed with white corded ribbon. Ave
or ak white ostrich tips. supplemented
by gilt buckle, il for q young person