Morning journal and courier., 1892-01-16

censers: while following these were mem
bers of some irmendsde in scarlet stoles,
each carrying long wax candle. All
were chanting at intervals q dirge- like
hymn. The entire procession was out of
sound and sight before we who knelt in
the roadway arose; and Dobrado told me
that q Portuguese superstition rendered
this kneeling until the doleful throng had
passed from sight of the direst importance.
Else "Nosso Senior" would next be re-
quired at the bedside of him who should
50 fail in meet and complete reverence
A spot full of quaint little Portuguese
pictures of their kind was an ancient inn
of a still more ancient and slumberous
town where we were compelled to pass the
night. 1 saw little but its huge archway
entrance and the strong iron gates closing
behind as we entered, for it was late and
/ went directly to my little alcoba above.
1t had once been an inn of some impor-
tance, and the structure, which was al
ready hundreds of years old, and had been
in the hands of one family for over three
hundred years, was good for more than
another half a thousand The walls of
the entire structure were capable of with
standing seige; and the slcobas or tiny
sleeping rooms were no larger than prison
ers' cells of modest size. Indeed, the pris-
on effect was enhanced by the riveted and
bolted doors of chestnut, six inches thick,
in which were iron latticed grstiugs with
little slides behind: while where windows
should have been were only tiny grated
holes splayed outwardly through the huge
stone wall.
No monks cell could have been more Sc
cure OF austere, and Dobrado told me that
this sort of a structure was greatly in ia
-. . -, .,E -
Girsldo, of Alfonso Henrique's time, who
often secured large booty at SIS defensible
inns, when abbots, friars or merchants
were travelling with treasure. The belong
ings of my odd room comprised a huge
pewter wash basin set upon the floor, a
coarse linen towel ample enough for a toga
in lieu of other garments, one chair or
stool constructed of rawhide thongs
stretched over a hollow framework, q bed
of four legs set into a huge frame with
slaves bound across the thongs, on which
were shapeless sack of sweet corn husks
and wooden blankets hand. woven by the
peasant women of the district; while at
the head of the bed, hanging from an iron
spike imbedded in the stone wall, was q
little pewter cruciix.
When morning came / found the interi-
or, the pateo or court of the old inn, most
odd and charming. All sorts of quaint
| utensils and furniture were scattered along
its sides. A narrow gallery ran around
the entire second story, with here and
there bird in cage and a semi-tropical
plant. On one of it's sides some pretty
vines crept up against the old walls in "a
vagrant, luxurious way; while the roof of
half-round tiles extended distance over
| the galleries, leaving generous opening to
/ the sky above. The whole interior, while
| n picture OF medieval quaintness. was q
| structural compromise between the closed
| abodes of northern climes and the lovely
| half garden house-court of the tropics; q
| suggestion of snugness and protection
| from whistling winds, and as true a trib-
| ute to zephyrous airs and genial sky and
l sun.
But opposite my chamber, along the
shadowy end of the court, was the surest
sign of equable CLINE and summery days.
| That was my breakfast cooking in the
| open air-not upon a stove, nor in a FIRE
| place, nor yet by any of the ruder devices
| our American grandmothers knew. Heavy
/ fat stones furnished a sort of raised rocky
| dais as high as the knees of the ancient
senhora who was bustling about the court.
| On this dsis furzs fagOts were burning in
two tiny fires no bigger than your fists
Above one of these on a triangular piece
of iron something was grilling. Above
II
long distance by a wooden pike beneath
| its bale or handle, something was stewing.
Il Between bars and snatches of song, a
| maiden of ample bust snd hips, with arms
| akimpo and hands pressing against the
/ sides of her scarlet bodice, converted her
self into human blow-pipe. feeding the
| flame of furze with such blasts from her
| powerful lungs ss would for the time com
pletely hide the two females in a kind of a
Il 81, ,-rn1r, NJ
smoke swiIling away towards the clouds
through the ever-open roof of the court.
Thus for an hour came song and smoke
| and strange dissolving views of cookery,
| women and fire, when was most ceremo-
niously conducted to my almoco or break
fast The table was bare of covering, but
| amends were made in dishes and their con-
tents. 4 tremendous frssca para vinho or
| wine fiagcn, or glass with a pewter goblet
at its side, contained fully two gallons of
the cheap wine of Alemtejo. 4 brown
earthen plate before me held = slice of
grilled Portuguese bacon of mighty pro-
portions. A sweet potato or yam, big as
| cuspidor, stood steaming alongside. A
basin containing some mysterious stew
fisnked the yam; and piled before me in
an actual recklessness of muni6cence was
| mountain of corn-meal bread, yellow as
saffron and hard as rock. For all this ser
vice, including my nights lodging snd the
care of Dobrado and the other donkeys
with the countless blessings of God and
GOOD Voyages!" showered upon us a
departure. / was only called upon to pay
sum equal to about forty cents il
American money
At villeggisturs or gentleman farmer
home-as all farmers in Portugal above th'
grade of peasants are called morgados o
gentlemen farmsrs-where We sought shel
ter from a shower, and after the custom o.
. the Portuguese were not permitted to de
part for a day, 1 had opportunity of brief
ly studying the Portuguese country gen
tleman's home. Near all large cities tn
morgado only comes to his country hom
in summer But at this distance from
! Lisbon many live at their villas the yea
round, visiting Lisbon in the gay winte
| seeson.
! These villas of the better class are all o
, one general pattern. A high walled court
+ yard in front, filled with ancient orang
, trees, half hides a low large house of hesv.
, | architecture, whose walls extend far 10 ih
rear and form another court yard of vas
= proportions, filled with home and farm be
! longings. This is generally the loungin
a and play spot for numerous servants an
children. The interiors ar quaint in hug
q | rooms strangely constructed staircases
= odd galleries and invariably a tiny chsp,
: | where mass is said for the family and ID
:, pendents on Saints day. These home
/, will possess many objects of refinement
but seldom any books. Occasionally beaI
:, tiful ststuary is seen. Odd ornaments i
2 metal and gsrgoyle water-spouts and -four
y tain-pieces are common Curious ol
: paintings and extraordinary specimens {
A china are in every home; and the guital
: though seldom any other musical instr
4 ment, will be found In nearly every rool
in the house In every yilleggiaturs
: Portugal the stranger and the friend al
q alike welcome.
:, Its exterior and surroundings are quain
l. dreamful and charming. In this porto
- of Portugal verdure is never absent, Il
! roses never cease blooming and the sons
~ of the birds are never done. Avenues {
y over-arching camellia and orange trees les
"a from the villa to a score of places upo
q the farmstead-among them TO the Crane
= les, to the threshing-foor, to the rosi
~ way, to the ancisnt Nora or water whee
"a vhsre blindfolded oxen tread round ar
"a round, raising the water, which is sent
n stone troughs to villa cascades and foui
tsins, and to countless places in the ga
dens and fields. Everywhere that labor
. DONE save in the fields, are shade Al
~ blossom and nesting birds; and while Ii
y here possesses none of the thrilling pa
n, and fine friction we know, ii Is always o'
q of easy labor, ample content and lAnguo
To GUS repose. EDGAR L. WAkEkAS.
IN rnnnn, nj