The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-02-07
IN A HEALTH FACTORY.
The Simple but Sufficient Regimen
Imposcd on Patients in an Ans.
trian Resort - 0kerya.
lions on Digestion.
By MARK TWAIN.

pOhcmla. 1t seems no very Rreuy Instance
from Annooy. In lfaute Savoie. to this place
you mako 1t in less than thirty hours by these
Continental express tralns-but tho changes
m tho scenery are great: they arc quito out OF
nronortion to tho distance covered. From An.
macy BY AK to Geneva you have blue lakes.
With bold mountains sprlnging from their bor-
ders. and far glimpses OF snowy wastes lifted
against the horizon beyond. while all about
vou IL n garden cultivated to tho last POSSIBLE
nv OF grace and beauty-a cultivation which
,,oesn't stop with tho handy lower levels. but
ia carried right UP the sheer sleeps and
propped thero with ribs o. masonry. and made
10 stay there In spite Of Newton's law. Beyond
Geneya-beyond Lausanne, at any rate-you
have for while a country which noticeably
resembles New England. and seems out Of
place and like on intruder-an intruder who Is
wearing his everyday clothes ut fancy-dress
ball. But presently. on your right, hugo green
mountain ramparts riso up. and utter that for
hours you aro absorbed in watching tho rich
shadow effects which they furnish. and are
only duly aware that New England is gone
and that you arc flying past quaint and un-
spcskably old towns and towers. Next day
You have the Lake OF Zurich. and presently the
Rhine is swinging by you. How clean 1t Is!
How clear 1t is! How blueitis! How green It is!
How swift and rollicking and insolent is its
golt and style! How vivid and splendid its col
ors-beautiful wreck and chaos OF all the soap
bubbles in the universal A person born on tho
Rhine must worshipit.
saw tho blue Rhine sweep along: heard, or seemed
TO hear.
Tho German songs We used to sing in chorus swee.
Yes that is where his heart would be. that is
whore his last thoughts would be. the soldier
Of the legion" who lay dying in AlGiers."
And by and by you are in a German region.
which you discover to be quito different from
the recent Swiss lands behind you. You have
a sea before you: that is to say the green land
goes rolling away. in ocean swells. to the hori-
zon And there is another new feature. Here
and there. at wide intervals you have islands.
hills POO and 300 feet high. of haystack form.
that rise abruptly out OF tho green plain. and
are wooded soidly to the top. On the top there
is Just room for ruined castle. and there it is.
every time: above the summit you sec the
crumbling arches and broken towers project
ing.
Beyond Stuttgart, next day. you find other
changes still. By and by. approaching and
leaving Nuremberg and down b. Newhaus
your landscape is bumped everywhere with
scattered knobs OF rock. unsociable crags OF
rude. tower like look. and matched with grass
and vines and bushes And now and then you
have Irgr>. too, OF n modest pattern as to size.
with rrecip.ce walls curiously carved and hon.
cycpmhed BY don't know what: but water
no doubt.
The changes are not done yet. for the instant
thee country finds it is out OF Wurtemberg and
into bavaria it discards one more thickness OF
s,! to go with previous disrobinss. and then
nothing remains over the bones but the shift.
Is not likely.
couple OF hours from sBayre',th you GROSS
into Bohemia. and before long you reach this
Marienbad and recognize another sharp
change--the change from the long ago to to-
day: that is to say. from the very old to the
sp;ci and span new: from an architecture to-
tally without shapeliness or ornament to an
architecture attractively equipped with both:
from universal dismnness as to color to uni
r"rsal brightness and beauty OF tint: from q
town which seems made up Of prisons to q
town which is made up OF gracious and grace
full mansions proper to tho light OF heart and
crimeless. 1t is like jumping out Of Jerusalem
into Chicago.
The more 1 think Of these many changes.
the more surprising tho thing seems. have
never made SO picturesque u journey before.
and there cannot be another trip of like length
IN he world that can furnish so much variety
hnd OF so charming and interesting sort.
There arc only two or three streets here in
this snug pocket in the hemlock hills. but they
IRE handsome. When you stand at the foot OF
Il street and look up tho slant OF it you 500
only block fronts Of graceful pattern. with hap
pi!y broken limos. and the pleasiD. accent Of
bly projections and balconies in orderly dis
order and harmonious confusion. and always
the color Is (resh and CHEEKY. various shades
OF cream. with softly contrasting trimmings OF
white. and now and then touch Of dim red.
These blocks nrn all thick walled. solid. mas
slvc. tall. for this is Europe: but 1t is the
brightest and newcst-lookins town on the
continent. and as pretty as anybody could re-
euro The steep hills spring high aloft from
the very back doors. and are clothed densely
to their tons with hemlocks.
In Bavaria everybody is In uniform. and you
wonder where the private citizens are. but
nero IN Bohemia tho uniforms are worry rare.
occasionally ono catches glimpse Of an Aus
TRAN officer. but it is only occasionally. Uni
FORMS are SO scarce that We seem to be in q
republic. Almost the only striking figure is
VIC foiish jew. He Is very frequent. He Is
'a'i and OF grave countanancc. and wears q
coat that coaches to his ankle bones and he
mas little wee curl or two in front Of each enr.
nc mas Prosperous look. and seems to DO as
Mucn respected ~ anybody.
ihe crowds that drift along the promenade
~ music time twra n day are fashionably
atossed alter tho Partisan pattern. and thoy
,o"A good deal alike. but they speak q lot Of
.usuages which You have not encountered be-
'o una no ignorant person can spell tn DIR
uahes. and they can't pronounce them them
selves.
si'fiehDad-Alary Bath. The Mary is tho