The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-05-26
WAKEMANS WANDERINCS
SOME OLD CATHEDRAL TOWNS-L

Gloucester, FngIasd 90 Far from Worn
Ways of Travel. IL Is Rich in History,
Mellow Traditions and Quaint Old
Architecture Of Long Ago-Its Noble
Cathedral.
copyright, ls1e by Edgar l.. Wakeman.l
GLOUCESTER, England, April So.-From
among the Cotswold hills had for days
caught oniicing gimpses Of the spires and
roofs Of ancient Gloucester grouped about
the huge tower Of It's splendid cathedral,
all snuggled amid rich verdure beside the
cleaning waters Of the Severn. The old
cathedral town, far from the worn ways OF
travel rich in history, legends and quaint
old architecture o. long ago, and still
peaceful and simple in its provincial color
ing and ways, at last won me from the
mountains through winding beech lined
roads and poisoning hawthorn lanes.
Besides there was personal interest In
the gray old town. All Of us. title haters
that We Americans fercely assure the rest
of the world we are love 90 know, II we
are honest enough 20 confess it, that away
back somewhere along the blood line be-
hind US there has been some one OF our
kin who was somebody, who really did
something and who was man enough good
cr bad. 20 have left an impress and record
upon the affairs Of his time. Without PRIDE
or envy could contemplate those OF my
family and name who rs the eldest sons
of eldest sons" had for nearly thousand
wears enjovcd their titles, estates and cas-
ties over in Shropshire and Wales.
But to know that another relative, John
Wakcrnan. the last abbot Of Tewkesbury,
chaplain 10 Henry VIII, had not only been
made the first bishop Of the see Of Glouces-
ter on its erection into a diocese the 81 Of
September, 15fl but had also been one Of
the translators OF the New Testament, the
Revelations Of St. John having been as
signed TO him, was something TO quicken
the pace and send along the veins pleas
ant thrill Of fine satisfaction and pride.
Something after the manner Of the
ownership feeling OF Silos Wegg in his
innocent delusion regarding "Our House
and It's Miss Elizabeth, '"Master George"
Aunt Jane" and uncle Parker" ]
found myself basking in the pleasant mys.
ticisms Of tOicratye relationship. The
very wraiths Of history that haunt the val
lev seemed 10 come closer and clearer than
though mn relative had not been the first
prelate of this important see. The Isle Of
Alney, there in the Severn, where Edmund
Ironsidc and Canute the Dane in 1910 de-
cdcd a great war by single combat, was
tinted with the interest Of a remote family
incident. Tcwkesbury across the valley
yonder. where the house Of York crushed
the house Of Lancaster, and the aisles Of
the old abbey ran with blood in the butch
cry Of the adherents Of i'll fated Margaret
and her murdered boy prince, came dream
fly within the same gorgeous setting.
Even the mad antics Of Richard Plan
tagenet. who was Duke Of Gloucester
(Glostcr) and who conferred many honors
and benefits upon the fine city and shire,
took on q more favorable guise. The burn
ing Of Bishop Hooper hard by the cathe-
dral gates paled behind the iilmy veil Of
his trOublous times. There was a personal
and mournfu interest in the cOrtegc which
bore the body OF murdered Edward II 10 its
resting place in the mighty cathedral.
Self gTatulati0n is such "a wantOn jade
and intOxicant that ! tramped from the
hills into the old cathedral city in cated
exultance, almost meeting the gaze Of hon
est Gloucester folk with the exuberance Of
expectant recognition. II seemed III my
pleasant frame Of mind as though the
landlord Of the humble inn where | came
to lodge ought to have called me by name
and come TO the door TO receive me. Per
haps he had never heard of my relative,
the bishop.
But lac merely glanced at my trousers
end shoes Then boots showed me to a
room i'm the caves. Returning shortly be
presented a bill in advance as follows:
Lodging, one and sixpcnce; attendance,
sixpence. candle, threepencc; boots three
pence Total, two and sixpence. Paid,
with thanks"
l don't think the landlord expected
shoots" to return with the money But
he did, and alive besides. For as | de
sccnded into the little vine hung inn yard
! noticed with pain that the coffee room
maid was gathering together, as il from
basty order. the remnants Of some other
Travellers recent meal, one who probably
had luggage il no great relatives and as
passed out into the pleasant streets Of the
lcafy old city / was sorely haunted by the
reflective query whether, had that landlord
known Of the prclate and of the titled folk
over in Shropshire and Wales, he would
have let me lodge at the little inn at all.
There was once famous cross at the
very center Of Gloucester The two
main streets Of the town intersect each
other here. One running north and south
Ia Northgate and Southgate to and from
the place still called "The Gross" The
ether is Eastgate and Westgate to and
from the same spot.
All that which Is picturesque and charm
ing from its antiquity, and that is much
In Gloucester will be found within dis
lance of 800 yards from the Cross, upon
these interesting thoroughfares, or in the
sleepy old courts leading into them, always
increasing in number and interest as You
approach the Cross. In "the Rows" OF
Chester will undoubtedly be found the
greatest number Of oddly constructed half
tmbered old Elizabcthan houses of any
provincial city Of England
But here in Gloucester are certainly
more and more winsOme individual In
stances At the corner OF Northgate street
aud Shakespeare road, where b. jenkins
"Soles and Heels Gents shoes for two and
Expencc, and ladio, at one and nine" and
l. also Barber and Naturalist" who, with
his human various" reminds you strik-
ingly of Mr.. Venus in Mutual Friend" is
quaiutcr structure than ever Dickens
painted.
A little farther up the same street, at
No lO2, is the most Characteristic old inn,
entered through huge arcade, have yet