The morning call., 1892-11-06

de Fontange. The hair was comDed to the
top OF the head and fastened by a simple
ribbon. One day the Duchess lost her hat;
Der hair fell. and to put it in place she took
ine ribbons from her larretieres. The King
was much pleased with the simple coiffure.
and from that day 1t became the fashion.
Louise de la talliere and Mime. de Monte
span always wore curls, but Nine dc Main
tenon introduced a fashion that made of the
head An edifce surrounded by ribbous,
Ieathers and precious stones. Every time
a woman moved her head The structure
sshook and threatened fall. the King
iound the fashion absurd and ordered that
Tue hair be dressed very low. Everybody
oueseu, out Nine de Maintenon went from
one extreme to another, and decided that
Diack coiites and wells should be worn by
young and old.
with Louis XIV came panlers and verv
Ssalnpie coi1ures. Prison, the fashionable
halrdresser. decided that the head sbonld
De as small as possible and the neck visible
"A coiffure. called Greegue, was introduced
at the end OF his reign, but it had no reIa-
Ion Whatever with an ancient Greek Golf
ture' Inc halr was waved and surmounted
oy race cap, 0rnamented with feathers and
MOWERS. Powder was used during the lat
ter portion of Louis XV's reign, but In ths
time OF Louis XV the fashion was at Its
height. 1t was said that before Marie
antoinette was Queen of France she was
queen OF halrdresserS. The whole history
OF Louis XVTs reign may be constituted
from the history OF c0ifure. Leonard
was the great hairdresser of the time.
ana be had so many clientes that
some had their hair dressed twenty-four
ana even forty-eight hours in advance.
leonard created the 'coiffure a la
Dauphin." in which the hair was drawn
up on the head, curled and allowed to fall
on the neck. The style called Opera Box''
was twenty inches in height and divided
IN stories ornamented in different manners.
however, there were always three feathers
on the left side Of the head. One day a
royal princess appeared with her hair
dressed in Opera Box" style hut orna-
mented with representation of her baby
in his nurses arms. a parrot and variety
of other decorations
One OF the most famous headdresses of
the time was called Belle Poule. introduced
at lhe time of famous naval battle. The
cOinure was eighteen inches high and COM
posed OF large curled hammers. On the
summit was the frigate, with sails set and
falling from the back a veil of water-green
tulle. Marie Antoinette's fayorite head
dress was not very complicated-tw large
crrlS Tell Oh each side of the face, and the
hair at the back was arranged in chignon.
An immense hat, ornamented with feathers,
surmounted this simple coiffure.
During the revolution the coiffures were
called Bastile, Nation, Victoire. and from
that time dates the Charlotte Corday bon
net. The Directory brought most dis
orderly arrangement of hair but all was
covered by an immense hat
The first empire saw nothing but Greek
and Roman coiffures, and those who wished
to be most fashionable went back several
hundred years before Christ. Wigs became
very fashionable during The first empire.
and these were worn by old and young.
The fashion that has been baptized with
the name "Firs. Empire" is the one worn
by the Empress Josephina-the hair
smoothly combed, with curs escaping here
and there.
The eoiffure called 1880 has hair frizzed
in punches on both sides, and on the top
three coques surrounded by pearls aud
feathers,
The most beautiful face and the most
beautiful headdress is that of the Empress
Eugenie-hair simply parted and carried to
the back of the head, where it falls in curls
on the shoulders.
BARONESS ALTHEA SALVADOR.
Paris, Oct. 10.