Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1892-09-16

witches. little cakes and confections the
islands are noted for the latter, a dozen or
more varieties At ] o'clock coffee, beef
tea. chicken broth. sandwiches, and wine
were served. Dancing is kept up till morn
ing anywhere from TO O'Clock. The .
service is solid silver and the daintiest
of china, making all these viands very
tempting Sunday, Monday and Tuesday
nights were gala nights at the theatre.
Boxes had been sold for weeks. We were
invited for the last night After the play,
also between the acts, people squirted per
fumed water at each other, having what
they called great fun" After the play
the seats were removed from the pit and
the fun increased Crowds of people had
been promenading the streets for a week
with masks, dressed in every conceivable
outlandish heathenish, outrageous costume
These poured into theatre for dancing till
1890, when the great bell rung, notifying
them that Ash Wednesday had come At
once the building was cleared and the rev
elers departed to lay aside the fantastic
costumes until another carnival. At
o'clock / went to the Matrix to see high
mass, and the priests crossed the congrega-
ton with ashes, as they knelt before the al
tar rail Every hour all night the bells
rung for services. Services are held every
two hours each day through Lent. The
chandeliers are all covered with brown lin
en- in all the churches for 40 days now, and
the people will count their rosaries with as
much zeal as they cavorted in their fantas-
tic costumes during carnival.
The wind has blown furiously from the
east the last week, and the waves have
washed over sea wall and breakwater into
the streets, The spray has dashed against
our windows and we cannot see out. We
went to the lighthouse and breakwater
Yesterday afternoon. and came home with
waterproofs drenched The thunder and
roar Of the waves we hear all the time
The earthquake in Algiers destroyed two
towns and killed 40 people This was the
same one which destroyed two houses and
killed two men near here Just out of town
the most severe of the four we have had
The last four days have been stormy and
the surf is beyond all description the
= waves seem mountain high We do not 60
out without waterproofs.
Next week the nuns of the white vail
sing daily we will hear them That will
be at the church of Santo Christie.
Friday, March 6, 1891
A countryman is just jogging by on a
a lovely, soft gray donkey sitting sidewise,
not holding to any lines, but eating his din.
ner from mis- square patchwork bag His
dinner is Portuguese bread and little cold
fish. washed down with a drink from the
spout at a fountain
Last week we drove by one of the perfect
roads of the island across the country t.
Capellas, on the northern coast, famed Ton
, its charming air and beautiful girls Near
ly all the windows have iattices, hideou'
ialousies one of the relics of old Moorlsi
days Many of the children are beautiful
and some of the young women, but as Ole
women they are mostly ugly looking
Many of the mobility and wealthy resident
e Of san Miguel have tine estates here for til,
summer The drive over Is up hill anI
VI down dale, and after we are well out from
the city walls the fields OF lupn are con
' tinuous save here and there a garden sur
rounded with its tall trees Of faya and in
cense with their long, narrow, glossy
bright leaves twinkling in the gentle wind
- over the gardens and churches. none o
& the latter younger than 10 years (the las
?. was built in 1916, / am always ready 70 lin
q ger. They are IneXhaustible subjects
II We have been having green peas rad
" ishes and lettuce all grown out of doors
D. since New Years day. Oranges we ge
= six for a two-and-a-half cent piece, % refs
D. They are becoming less plentiful now.
e Heretofore the only communication witt
d these islands and America direct has beer
IS by sailing vessels. Now the Empreza Insu
5, lana de Naragacas run the Y ega from Lis
81 bon TO New y ork calling here both ways
Is One afternoon this week we drove witt
r a party of four, with three horses abreast
TO Capellas, nine miles across the island
T. This IS the narrowest part Of san Miguel
D. All the way is through gardens, so TO speak
" the land is under such high cultivation on
1r ly green field after green field Capellas i
j. on the northern shore of san Miguel an,
mas a small bay sheltered on three sides b,
ID high cliffs, and here, before the Ponta Del
II gada breakwAter was built, vessels an
: mail steamers landed cargo and passengers
p all of which had to be transported acros
lie country. The road, like all in these islands
Is marvel of smoothness and evenness
rs the carriage rolls as on a floor. As W
lie ascend the hills, the views of the ocea
from between other heights is beautiful.
~ PoNTA DELGADA, HOTEL AcoRIANA,
III ST MICHAEL AZORES,
ID March 30, 1891.
~ All this week past Passion week, W
of have been in the churches Closely follow
a ing the peculiar services, which are yer
g elaborate, on holy Thursday was the wasl
: ing of the feet of 70 old men by the Driest,