Morning journal and courier., 1892-03-05

by the first sranscontinental route, and
 there a few years after she became inter.
 ested in the free Kindergarten work which
 has since engrossed so much of her time
 and thought, and has proved an incalcula-
 b]e benefit to the children of the
 poor, since it is form
 of practical philanthropy which comes
 nearer to solving some social problems
 than many benevolent schemes that come
 under the head of "charities."
 On the California schools Mrs. Leland
 Stanford has expended thousands of dol
 lars, while in Boston Mrs. Shaw's liberal
 gifts have helped to prove to the wealthy
 and generous that few investments are
 more satisfactory than those which secure l to many otherwise neglected little ones a
 training of the brain and the fingers with
 lessons in morals and manners, in self
 control and obedience.
 l UNVEILED FANS.
 Mock jewels, which have of late played
 so brilliant part in the wide sphere of
 ornamentation, are still regarded with fa-
 vor. The new gauge fans are profusely
 studded with them, and the glow
 and sparkle of ruby and pearl, | opal, emerald and amathest upon the tilmy texture, as the fan waves | and futters under brilliant light, is re-
 markedly showy and effective.
 A jeweled fan is rather expensive bit | of property A plain gauge fan .of good l quality is not, and jewels may be bought by the handful at reasonable rates, their | value being properly gusged by their real
 merit and not by their pretensions. For | white gauge fan use the soft pale tinted l jewels; for black gauge those with fiery and l glowing hues.
 Trace the design lightly upon the gauge with pencil. It should be appropriate in shape, graceful, and not too intricate, or l when the jewels are sewed on it will be- l come unmeaninR The design may first be drawn upon paper cut in the shape of I the fan, and this laid under the gauge | when the pattern may be easily trans ferred. Upon the penciled lines the jew els are sewn, the colors being arranged ac- cording to the requirements of the design. Of course the worker must avoid placing the jewels go as to interfere with the folds. The stitches upon the back are then cov- cred with delicate line of water-color, re- producing the design in outline.
 This fan is warranted, in the hands of an adept, to beam and sparkle and glim- mer, to wave as enchantingly, and do just as much execution, as one of those elabor- ate creations of the luxurious days of Louis XIV, when Watteau and Boucher lavished their art upon it's painted land scape, and gliding and gems enhanced its
 beauty, and increased its price from the extravagant to the fabulous.
 ILLUSTRATIONS THAT DO NOT ILLUSTRATE. Some recent fashion articles inform us that the long, attenusted waists that have been in vogue for year past are now en- tirely out of fashion; that waists are to be shorter, and less like unto an inverted pyramid; in short, that they are to con- form to artistic and hygenic principles.
 It is well if women may be dressed &C., cording to the present fashion, and yet in accord with the laws of nature and art. That which phy sicians and reformers, lecturers and writer's have not been able to effect, will easily become the rage if Dame Fashion but frowns upon the in artistic and ungraceful, and issues inn proved modes under her hand and seal.
 In view of this effort in the right direc- ton it is rather a pity that the illustrators of some of these very articles have not taken the trouble to read the text. It is often observed that illustrators do not al ways illustrate. Says MT. Harry Furniss, the English artist: "Just as every mouth full of food (according to MT. Gladstone) should be bitten thirty times before it is swallowed, so most stories require reading over a certain number of times before the artist can digest the contents sufficiently for illustration"
 The same rule might be applied to the illustration of other than stories. Pictures appeal very strongly to the eye and are often studied by those who do not take the trouble to read. Evidently the illustrat- ors of some of the fashion articles have ignored descriptions and carried out their own ideas, 'sregardless," as some curious figures have been observed in recent pub lications, of which, by actual measure ment of the drawing, the closed waist at the narrowest point is exactly the same size as the unclothed throat. This in def ance of all laws of proportion, and in com plete contradiction to the text.
 From such carelessness in depicting the coming fashions what errors may spring! The general public, of the female persua- sion, that is, will be woefully misled, and much suffering will result. Imagine the agony of the woman who endeavors to com press her twenty six inch waist until it "iust matches" her thirteen inch neck, and then finds to her sorrow that she isn't in the fashion after all! For this mis- placed effort, and this suffering, the fash ion plate makers will be responsible. Let them be warned in time, study the human form divine little more, and take care not to run counter to the decrees of the very goddess who supports them, or rem der the directions of the fashion article writer of none effect. HILARY.