The Jersey City news., 1892-03-12
The Suits, Topcoats and
0yerCoatS Which the
Men Of Fashion
Will Wear.
BERRY WALLIS SUCCESSOR
0natiyia is the High Sounding
Name of the New Beau Brum-
nell Who Sets the FASH
ions for New York.

| Berry Wall, the famous ex-kiug, in the
| way of spring attire. and If fashionable
! Fifth avenue tailor's prediction is verified
| the new king, Mr.. Louis Onativia, will
simply surpass all previous records in the
| number of suits to lie worn during the
spring aud, summer seasons. l have 1t on
excellent authority that his complement
for the spring alone includes five top and
overcoats and eighteen suits. For the
year he is to have forty suits altogether.
at cost of about 81 900. By the side of this
record the thirty vests and twenty suits
of Berry Wall, worn during the last year
of his reign in the Kingdom of Fashion.
form an Insignificant item in the history
of society.
Nor Is MIR. Ouativia to be the only man
of fashion at the top Of the heap in the
social world. f. S. Thompson, the swell
broker, has given his tailors orders for
six spring suits, three riding outfits, four
top and overcoats All told his orders for
the year, so his tailor tells me, will be
twenty suits.
6. V. 5. Oddie. the SWEETEST man in the
KD1ckerbocker, is to come out with The
'loudest" suits yet worn by that fashion
able dresser. Mr. Oddie has always worn
rather brightly designed clothes, but this
season the English fashioniug of big
square patterns will give him a splendid
opportunity to outshine himself. He has
orders at his fifth avenue tailor's for
twenty suits to be worn during the spring
and summer season of 1892.
The best dressed man ON the avenue
this spring to those who like quiet. mod
est designs, will be Banker q. Z. Haven. i.
He has orders in for three spring suits,
all made in fashion, but i'll dark colors.
In fact the fashion plates for spring and
summer which are just over from Eng
land, give the man of fashion opportunity
to select his own designs and colors.
There is absolutely no fashion so far as
these two elements go. English cloths in
fashion are OF ali coiors, and i'll fully a
thousand designs, from the loudesu stripe
to the most inconspicuous black.
The bagyy overcoat is out Of style and
many thin man of fashion will breathe
easier. OF course sucn men as Ned
Bulkely, Barclay Warburton and Freder-
ick Bronson will not enjoy the cnange.
But they will be able to set off their
rather stout forms by the old-style baggy
topcoat. which continues in fasnlon, al
though not quite so long as last year. In
fact the top coat will be buggler than
ever.
BuJ while the shape will be the same.
the seam down the middle of the back of
both this and the overcoat has dIsap-
peared.
On the morning oat the shape remains
about the same, except that the cuffs are
larger. both in the cutaway and in the
sack styles.
Trousers in all shades will be, in style,
of medium width and cut. but little off
ferent from those of last year.
Elisha Dyer. Jr., who has always
dressed in the sack and in dark blue
as rule, has changed to the frock morn
f,,,r hicc cr,ripo ic hoH wi fold
once that he had notspent $4,000 on suits
in ten Years.
On this point he has few rivals. / do
not think that either Creighton Webb or
Mr.. Rives spends much more. but they
are always in fashion.
1t costs J. r. Townsend fully $1,000 for
suits and overcoats eGcl year.
G. d. Babcock and Frank Sturgeon,
both well known club men who dress
mcdestly but always in style, must spend
81 500 a year for clothes.
THEY LIKE QUIET STYLES.
DR.. Chauncey Depew is Que of the few
elderly men # fashion who abhor the
English changes IN fashion. Commodore
Kane, Mr. Gerry, Banker Seligman and
Or. Depew are the quartette who are as
one on this point, aud the fashionable
tailor who makes their clothes wept Bit
ter, scalding tears as he told me that they
always insisted on being two years be-
mind the English styles. In fact, they
order their clothes cut the same and of
the same designs, year in and year out,
but this the fashionable tailors would not
admit
But, reverting to the spring fashions, /
would like to throw iu word about the
new style macintosh cloaks, which are
found to be worn more or less during
March, April and May. They are now
worn with rather narrow velvet collar,
adding a little to their attractiveness.
Double-breasted waistcoats have gone
out of style and the American imitator of
that English fad Can breathe q triae
freer.
The dress coat shows but little change.
Most fashionable men prefer TO wear
the silk collar, and the skirt Of the coat
remains about as it was, but there is a
new departure in the shape of the waist
coat. At one time last year and year be-
Tore the waistcoat WAS cut as broad and
low as possible, so as to allow an extern
sive display of shirt front. Seward Webb
was always fond of this stvle. for it
showed his magnificent physiqueto to better
advantage. He is always in fashion. and
so will be forced to change, getting the
waistcoat closer together. Most men will
hail the change with uuallowed joy, for it
means the end of visible ugly creases in
the shirt front, which are almost newt
able at the annual crushes given by Mrs.
Whitney, Mrs. Astor aud Mrs. Bradley
Martin.
One of the late English plates of spring
fashions is entirely without the short coat
pattern. While il is true that the tend
ency is for the trock coat to be worn early
and late, to the exclusion of The morning
coat, Americans will wait some time be-
fore they put aside entirely that very
comfortable garment. Fancy Barclay
Warburton without his morning sack
coatl In the frock on the late patterns
the skirts are still worn loug but while
the waist is well defined, ii is not too
closely cut in, although some men. like
Fred Gebhard or Lispenard Stewart,
would prefer this, as it shows the breadth
of the shoulders to better advantage. The
collars are still faced with silk in the ma
iority of instances.
In park driving and cross-country suits
the styles this spring are particularly in-
teresting. There have been no new
stuffs or fabrics for hunting breeches
for long time. Corduroy still
has the preference, and corduroy
OF the best make cannot be beaten. Ii
literally lasts forever. The shades of
delicate brown i'll which it is produced
are artistically lovely. Some men Will
continue to affect thick leather. III fact
this was noticeable at the recert morse
show in Madison Square Garden, but it is
by no means a handsome substitute for
corduroy. The shape behind is decidedly
more "baggy' this season-balloon shape
is the technical term.
SPORTING SUITS
For riding, shooting, cycling and fish
ing, all great spllnR sports, there are
.oI nEt,a ft1ff fx.r 81