The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1892-07-10
CRUISE TO NEAH BAY.
Judge Swan Visits His Friends,
the Makah Indians.
HE rs THEIR GRANDFATHER"
Progress Of the Red Men-They Catch
Fur-Seai Pups Which Are Born
on the Kelp- Beds.

On Monday, the 18th, left Port Towns
end at 80 a. IN. on the steamer Garland
for Neah bay to look after my collection
Of articles of Indian manufacture for the
state Worlds fair commission. 10 be
exhibited at the grand exposition in 1893
az Chicago. and to note the various changes
that have taken place along the route he
tween Port Townsend and Seah bay since
1879. when / first visited the latter place
as a guest ofmy friend, the late Henry A.
Webster, who at that time, with Mess-s.
Strong and Sampson, were engaged trad
ing with Indians for furs, skins and oil at
their post on Baadah point. 4 few scat
tered fa-mhouses at Dungeness, three or
four settlers a. Port Angeles. and en- &C.
casioE al cabin of some hunter or woods
man along the strait, composed al the
white population between Townsend and
Tatoosh island. distance OF about loo
miles. as the crow flies. but much more
by the sinuous, crooked route Of canoe
fravei, our only means OF locoruotion IN
those days. The change Is marked BY the
settlements Of today, which / viii FREELY
name as I passed them IN the mail
steamer.
Our first stopping place was Port WILL
lam near Sequinl bay. The next was AZ
Groveland. near Dungeness, where whar;
three-fourths Of mile long affords 9
means of transportation over the extern
sive flats to the town OF Groveland which
is already showing signs OF vitality and
active life in new buildings and other evil
dences of prosperity. From Groveland We
passed around the lighthouse on DIM
geness spit and ran along the shore TO
Port Angeles where We only stopped long
enough to change mails and load passen-
gers. Port Angeles has grown from a
wilderness to fine CITY which is sure TO
become OF commercial value from its
sheltering harbor and fine agricultural sur
roundings. At present il Is exceedingly
dull, like every town on Puget sound. but
the hopeful ones say that the long ebb of
depression has about rnn ont and the
food tide Of prosperity will soon come in
strong. Port Angeles is beautifully sita-
ated and deserves all the prosperity that
may come 10 il.
From Angeles we ran along past the
mouth o. the Elwha river and Fresh
Water bay TO Port Crescent. our next
stopping place. Things here are very
quiet The clink o. the dinne--pail bril-
gade and the runbIing Of barrows wheel
breakwater are no longer heard. but l was
assured that when Frank Clapp's prom
Used railroad TO Grav-s harbor is built
things at Crescent wall present . more
cheerful outlook. And my friend Dick
Mcdonald. the portly landlord OF the
hosiery. told me that Richards himself
again" which Is an assurance Of tender
elk steaks, yenison pssties and lo-dly
trout cooked SIS Richard hest knows how;
an assurance tha; Stan Lztimer, Strong
and their party Of dozen spoE.sEnen who
landed there told me is fact. snd that all
true sporssmen OF the gun and rod brigade
hunt Cor Dick McDoaAl6's IS haven of
rest. and guarantee OF fnll creels and
game bags daring their visit 10 the lake
and their sojOu-R .: Crescent
Our next stopping place was ST Ge;tys-
burg. few miles wess Of Crescent, bar.
where old man Getty has l.ndine. a log
gsnE camp. = town and rozds 10 farms II
she inferior.
We next STOPPED Sc PysAt 10 land mails,
ard then proceeded 20 ClAllzzn bar. where
IS more life ard business going on .han
81 S1r place between Townsend and
Cage Fls.se-y. We first stopped 81 the
nsw wharf 81 the cas-: side % the hav,
where : ssvmill engaged in emitting ane
sTr-ce Iuza6er for the san Francisco mar
keL = schooner had Just arrived and vas
preparing - load cargo. We then passa.
10 TIE vest side Of tie hav, where = the
mandatory for making the extract Of
heEnsoek bark for tanning purposes. =
coopezaEe. 3 sawnili and other industries
There Is lively. buslneSslske appearance
in C-Allsz2 bay very refreshing these dull
times From ClallA-s bAv ne ran 20 NeaA
bzy. and arrived there A. a:Sa = n. Twas
ST once invited by my friend, Mr.. Charles
Eaaas. the postmaster, - make his house
rny home during ray star. M-. Eaals is
s2sc Tae government telegraph operator
and signal service observer. - that did
not have - travel far Tor mails or "a send
dispatches 10 any v.a-1 % the world. bur As
i had been bumped shout sna tossed ~
the lively little Garland in tue tide -ips
snd heavy seas on the strait, concluded
10 defer al business uaul could take
hy;ls rest
Ny i.rSt advent n Mesh hsv vas. IS |
before remarked, IN l>59 hal previously
resided ~ Shoslwaier bav from fSS2 %
1sTS during the SINAI pox epidemic Of -
which 6scimAte3 the Coast tribes from
ClaiSop south ~ the Columbia river. %
Cape Fiai1ety, snj as ha6 rendered good
service n staying me PEST a. Sl2oAlwAge-
hAy, my nan2e AAd PRECEDED ne aa3
i0an1. % nv arrival. many Indians who
hs1 heard % ne IS a great doctor who
could bow SWAY the plague 81 smallpox
s. easily IS one can blow away the smoke
from his ripe - ! soon ras3e f~ser 3
with thst Wild SCI e sayacss. who. wi.h
CO F,aItery Jack 81 yhe.r head. were ne
hardest sst Of natives On fhe Coast. the
terror Ct any unfortunate mariners ~,
naigA; be cast away CT the rackv shores Of
CsTS FlSttery.
In '>2 FAe Mskah reservation WAS com.
uenoe5 Wlsh Henry A Webster IS Iad,an
s-e1f- II June o. thai wear wSs 81,
pointed teacher ar3 superintendent ~
construction. Il wAs during the va Of
TIE rebellion sra Ne hAi many Obstacles
70 contend with: r-ssnhack< were worth
s. - e cents % tAe dollar; supplies were
o4s2cl,i 20 cbtsln, ard our progress wss
t1s Sew. We hAi - clear the primevAl
: forest - make a SPACE "a whlcA - erect
fhe necessary buildings, sad - crub and
pow the lama - p.ant potatoes ard other
vegetables necessary tor cu~ subsistence
l. Nas $ wear BEFORE We hsd the buildings
coa,p.ele1 n y a3ch - lave.
The fra hcld;nc wss the x,hoo,haase
aiA-SV wooden strGc-a-e vrl:A tower. and
awinc fo- Kitchen and s5ttlnr-rsara. the
Whole resting ug>Na a Basement ,,f .s>lss
stone masonry. The stones were Gathered
- tAc Aesch by ln5!sHS and hau.eS Z, the
SPOT where tkey wVge roaat~e3 h~ the ~
team. AMI were iala NJ Just IS they were
covered Win harnac,es Aud othv- marine