The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1892-03-18
MIXING THE TESTS.
4 Good Shoucimg for the California ZINE
Ydfdists.

MIXING THE TESTS.
4 Good Sho,cimg for the California ZINE
ydrdists.
Analysis of brandy" said a leading
dealer who was applied to for advice on the
subject OF testing the spirit, 'is a very diff
cult undertaking. 1t is so in the case of
many compounds containing vegetable in
gradients but not so if they be mineral. i
have had many analyses made and | no
longer rely upon that means of testing. l
use the same means that is now employed
by every large purchaser or distiller of
brandy. A trustworthy brandy-taster must
be employed. Find such man, or, better,
three such men. and you will get results not
possible to arrive at by analysis. fake good
coguac, for instance. An analysis will
show that it contains certain constituents,
such as alcohol, aldehyde. furfurol ard
amyl. Now it is easy enough for an in
geni0us manufacturer Of artificial spirits TO
add to his decoctioDS traces of these in
gradients, so that the chemist is at once
confused and ca only guess at the quality
of the spirit. Go to a. Vignier for one.
and you can go TO whoever else you please
for the other testers"
The CALL man went TO Mr.. Vignier. He
found that that gentleman does not deal in
California brandes at all but in imported
wines and liquors. Here was therefore, a
man who had nothing to gain by the test,
Moreover, even il he had the bottles were
so arranged that he could see no mark upon
them to designate the sources from which
they came. Had he been blindfolded and
made the test in dark room with his hands
tied behind his back there could have been
10 fairer arrangement
Six small clear glass bottles stood on q
counter before him. They were of various
shapes. Some were tall and slender, others
short and squat and still others of medium
height. Each, however, contained two
ounces Of brandy. SO far as Mr.. Vignier's
chances OF observation went the bottles
were devoid Of any mark. So far as color
went there was very little difference.
MIR. Nignler put slender cut-glass
tumber before each of the six bottles as
they stood in the row before him Included
in those six bottles were two Of the Govern
ment brandes, one bottled IN 1885 and the
other in 1886 The other four were of ordi-
nary California stock.
The reporter uncOrked tie bottles and
Mr.. YignIer poured a small quantity into
each glass, the bottom of the glass being
covered to about half an inch il depth with
the liquid.
The corks were all replaced, and MI
Vignier did not touch the bottles aft, that,
or look at them or see any marks upon
them.
Then the test began, neither Mr. Vigner
nor the reporter speaking a word during the
whole operation. Mr.. Nignier placed his
nose in each glass in turn, and as he did so
he made mark on piece of paper. The
Governments brandy stood third and fifth
In the order OF the bottles and 10 these MI
NignIeT assigned the word bad" To the
others he assigned various hieTOglyphcs
that were not intellg BILE TO the reporter
Then he took the first glass and putting il
to his lips took about one-thlrd Of its con-
tents upon Ms tongue. He held il there for
a quarter of a minute ana then spat il out
He continued tasting and splitting with the
rest of the samples. 1t WAS observed that
whenever he finished testing the California
brandy he spat to the left, and with
moderate force, but whenever he tasted the
Governments medicine for sick soldiers he
spat To the right and very vigorously.
That tod the story without going further
But OF course that was not acceptable es
proof
When he had finished tasting the raw
brandy he poured a teaspOOnful of water in
each glass and tasted the combination of
liquids, emitting them from his mouth in
each case a before.
Then he did some more marking on his
paper.
among some Of these brandies." he then
said, breaking the silence. there is no par
ticular difference. They smell and taste 10
ME like ordinary California brandies. They
are all about the same grade. and You know
what a Frenchman thinks of California
brandy. so there is no need for me- TO say
anything about them. But here is bottle
Of stuff that is not brandy at all 1t is par
ticulsrly Yile.'
And Mr.. Vignier pointed his finger at one
Of the samples of good old 1868 brandy,
sent ont here from the East by the Govern
ment for medicinal purposes only"
Mr.. Vignier made few other remarks
about bTandies IN general whicn IL Is use
less to record. Then the reporter gathered
up the bottles. not letting Mr.. Vignier know
what his decision had shown, il il had
shown anything and wrapped them in
paper.
Thanks" said the reporter. going 10 the
door ''Good-d day, Mr.. Vignier."
'tGoOd-day, sir"
as this bran1y?" asked THE CALL re-
porter, handing some of the Governments
liquid to f. A. Haber, Of the IngIewood
vineyard.
Lets see," said Mr. Haber.
lie took what he called testing glass or
nose" glass and poured little of the sick
soldiers medicine intoit.
The nose" glass was long, and curved
down in a bulb shape at the handle
Mr.. Haber took the glass in his hand and
firmly pressed the bulb with his palm and
fingers.
That it is to warm it little" he said.
by doing this IL throws off stronger fumes"
After half minutes warming in this
way. he suelled Of the liquid. Then he
shook his head.
Then he took a sample from the Govern
ments cellar on his tongue and made very
WHY face. He kept it on his tongue for sew
eral seconds and thoroughly tasted il. Then
he spat it out furiously and rnsed his
mouth with water.
NO." said he emphaticaly, cit is not
brandy. 1t is some kind of cheap spirit
doctored with the essence of coguac and
other chemicals, and given strong biting
flavor with African pepper. II is then col
ored with caramel or burned sugar. 1t is
neither brandy nor whisky. 1t is a very
cheap decoctinn, that / should say would
be very injurious TO mans stomach if he
should take 1t for steady drink. Take
taste of this California brandy and then a
taste of that stuff aud you will notice the
difference"
The reporter did So The California
brandy given him was labeled 1885 IL had
a soft, smooth. pleasant taste and a good
flavor. The Government brandy had
biting. nipping taste and seemed rank and
crdde, although it was purchased years ago,
according to the yeracious label it bore.
" Ny honest opinion u.s." said Mr.. Haber,
that this stuff you have brought me does
not contain one drop OF grape juice 1t is
artificial throughout and is composed largely
OF Injurious chemicals