Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1892-03-24

and sparkling gems, and IS to be worn dur
ing the coming season. a belt or girdle is
always designed to hold something. and NO
one with any idea of fitness viii wear one
with a tight bodice 1t may have all the
beauty and elegance that gems and precious
metals can bestow, but it must also convey
an idea OF the useful in order TO be appro-
pirate Many Of the belts are linked silver,
others are Of seal, alligator or calf, and
when desired may be of the dress material.
Such are usually lined and bound with
leather and have leather buckles. Much
taste as vel as cost Is shown in the metal
buckles, Lcut steel, chased or begemmed
silver being popular.
Among loose-fowing gowns the house
dress is hostess delight. When she comes
to meet her guest, if arrayed in one of
these charming creations, not only does she
feel at'ease but she also imparts to others a
feeling of welcome Every woman knows
that dress has much to do with feeling, and
when appropriate aids to repose OF manner,
calm dignity and to the maintenance of
equilibrium Of spirit a late and graceful
model is Of some figured stuff lined with
soft material and having single bias seam
in the middle of the back. with cores in
front to secure perfect fit on the hips.
The breadths facing the back are also more
bias than customary and there are opposing
pleats which fall freely and make up the
pointed train. Around the bottom of the
skirt is pleated silk ruche with raveled
edges. The corsage passes under the skirt
and hooks at the back invisibly It is or
namented with large lace iabot and broad
ribbons, which pass under the arms
and tie between the shoulders,
with long straight ends. At the back
the corsage consists CT two folds, termi-
mating in point at the bow and displaying
a triangle of the material. There are no
side pieces except in the lining; in the front
the material reaches quite to the side with
out seam, and to garniture this plain front
there is deep corselet of the ribbon and
lace. This corselet, with the exception of
one width of the ribbon, extends only to
the side seam. The single width of ribbon
hooks on the opposite side and is held in
place by fancy pins. The straight collar is
composed of the ribbon. The sleeves are
very full at the top and narrow gradually
down to the wrist.
Very elegant, even exquisite, is tea
gown proper. 1t is made of pale crushed
strawberry silk en- train. Over the front
of the garment falls loose drapery of
white point de Paris lace, the pattern being
outlined with fine pale blue silk thread.
At the neck of the dress is bow of pale
blue ribbon, and the lace drapery is caught
in two places by bows of blue ribbon. The
under part Of the sleeve is crushed straw
berry silk with cap of pale blue silk
edged with flouncss of the lace, which give
the Partisan touch to this lovely creation.
For common mortaIs' daily needs, wrappers
are indispensable, and they are made of
white crossbar trimmed with Hamburg, of
lawn, of calico, percale and light flannel.
Some are made with round shirred yokes,
the old-fashioned serpentine braid being
run on the shirrs. Others have big sailor
collars, in color contrasting with the gown.
These are the gowns that need the girdle
and the zone unbound is now, as in the days
Of ancient Greece, woman's shame.
The. jacket continues to play an important
part in the costume. Jacket suits. that is
gown with jacket or coat, will be much
worn during the spring. Many of these
gowns are trained. The jackets usually
form the bodice Of the gown, opening in
front over a silk blouse, velvet corselet, or
vest The more expensive suits have
separate bouice for the gown, the dress be-
ing complete without the jacket, which is
intended only for the street. The term
jacket, as used with these suits, indicates
coat of moderate length cut even all around
and fitted loosely though shaped to the
figure
Turnover collars are the rule for such
jackets. It is to be noted that the turn
over collar is more seen this spring than
for long time, and is largely excluding
the high collar. Sometimes the coat is cut
with modified blazer front. When the
skirts are short any of these costumes will
be uncommonly useful for shopping and
travelling. Elaborate gowns have the
mikado jacket open in the back, and show
other varieties of the waist-line jackets,
the Figaro, the Elton, ETC. Ribbon is run
down the back of the bodice where the
mikado is slashed, and falls below the belt
in two short loops. Blind folds of silk are
being used as a skirt trimming, colored
silk on challie and similar goods. the folds
running around the bottom near the edge.
Among the accessories to woman's toll
cite, the dressing of the neck is OF imror-
lance, and since the high collar is giving
place to the turn-down, something that can
be worn at will is very convenient.
A pretty collar to be worn with any dress
consists of folds of surah, rose and white,
in three soft bands around the neck, the
rose folds being on the outer edges. The
collar is pinched down in little point at
the top in front to make it mora becoming,
and is closed in the back with three little
bows of surah, one above the other. An
other tasteful design is collarette Of
mousseline de sole gathered TO acollar band
in finest of shirrings. A fall of handsome
white lace. either guipure or an antique
lace, forms founce around the shoulder.
The flounce is fastened to the collarette by
a double ruche of dark velvet, old rose,
blue, wine or any chosen shade Ruchings
of the velvet also finish the wrists. This
is a charming addition to any simple toilet,
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