The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-04-16


aud fro to this day most OF the goods
and products which tho 'clrcles",of Ga
licia exchange with each other the
rude products OF Moldavia and Bcssara-
bin, the cattle from tho great steppcs
which reach tho German aud Austri-
an abbators, tho willow tts'of fancy
wares from Austria TO Russia, and all
the innuncrablc and unnamable goods
and wares which aro struggled into
Russia.
Many highways equally well built run
parallel with the main artery for short
CT distances. Three great roads inter.
sect it from north 10 south. One In the
east runs south from Dukovina into
Pennsylvania In central Galicia, an.
other, starting Mt Lcmbcrg, passes
south, cutting through tho Carpathian
range. 20 Munkacs, in hungary. The
third zigsags southwark from this city,
passing into Hungary, through the val.
10y Of tho Arva, ut the western base OF
tho Tatrn mountains; and on this noun.
tain.shadowcd, forcst.fringed, cliil-hung
and cascade.tremulous highway, ]
tramped with carimen and pnckmen,
soldiers and pilgrims, boggars and Clip.
sizes, to tho Tatra mountains to know
their strange and unknown peasantry.
ROADSIDE SHINES
/ am thus explicit regarding the thor.
oughiares OF Galicia, because withou
this, those who travel with mo can
hardly know Galician folk aud their
ways. Their roads furnish the outward
seeming OF their lives and affairs. Upon
these roads every form OF traffic,
threading to aud from score OF coun.
tries and sharply defined people, is
seen. From them every variation In
outdoor daily life, aspect OF quaint hus-
bandry, ceremonial between classes.
and hint and tint OF popularity and
color in national fact and feeling, comes
close and clear TO the traveller upon his
legs. And l have nowhere else in
Europe seen such variety and wealth
OF roadside shrincs.
| should think that in the two or
three thousand miles CT tho great stone
roads Of Galicia huge wooden orstonc
cruci!ix, or tiny brick or stone shrine.
might be found OIL the average at the
distance OF every half an English mile.
Most OF the crucilixes arc OF wood hewn
out OF beech or oal;en rlogs. Whether
OF wood or stone, as ii from some great
burden, every one leans. and this very
leaning lends Il strangely suggestive
sadness and loneliness TO the landscape.
They arc most frequent in districts
nearest the Carpathians which form the
Hungarian boundary. The Ruthenian
peasants being OF Russian stock are all
Greek Catholics, and the Polish Gala.
clans are without exception Roman
Catholics. They are equally pious, and
YOU can never pass crucilix or shrine
without witnessing group OF both in
rapt DEVOTION many OF whom are grow
cling PROSTATE upon 3thc earth before
the sacred reminders OF Calvary. At
Whitsuntide one will see crowds of
these simple and pious devotees crawl
ing upon all tours, while trailing huge
wooden crosses from their necks and
shoulders, around everyroadside shrine
in all Galicia. +3t.:s- -,
At the little inn where.I, larry in era
COW, made the acquaintance OF youth
OF twenty who had tired OF Tatras peas
ant life. and had come to the great city
TO seek his fortune rs q kellncr or SER
vitor. sgs4
lie had led the alos.s$liid Of. the city
inn long enough, to pine for his old
mountain home with an unutterab.e
longing. l bought his freedom OF his
landlord master tor eighty marks, and
thus secured the most devoted guide
traveller ever knew to the shepherd hut
homes OF the, Wild. and almost I'M
traversed Tatra moiint9ihsI5.s,, ,I I.r;.v
These comprise a western spur OF the
Carpathian range. whero the latter, be-
tween Galicia and Hungary, are broken
by the great panoramic valley OF Arva,
and reappear beyond, ini lesser ranges
such as thesLiptau and sNeutra noun.
tains and neutrality-suspicious. range
The entire region reminds ono striking;
ly OF the wilde: aud grander portions OF
the English lake district where the
lordly Helvellyn rears his craggy. mist
crowned crest above the shadow Vale
OF st. john; only that the elevations
are vastly higher; the glens and valleys
more dark and shadowy: the cascades
more impressive and sublime and the
forests more deep. vast and lmpenetra-
bio to all save those who know their
secret ays;Mhile; the; splendid olden
sturdy Umbrian peasantr. OF English
Westmoreland and Cumberland, who
are both shepherds and agriculturists,
have here their congeners in n purely
phcpherd peasantry whose lives and
ways have been changelc,s ior more
than thousand years. 80,
MOUNTAIN SCENES.
We went by rail to tho little village
OF Jordanow, and crossed q northern
spur OF the Tatra, thus coming directly
into the valley OF the Arva and the
great Highway from Cracow to Buda-
Pesth. Along this road VIC Travelled for
q day in company with every manner OF
picturesque iellow-traveler; lodged at
Arva Narallyu, and tho next morning
set our faces towards tho east and the
Tatra heights.
The glories OF this mountain journey
were unrivalled. Wild, rugged, grand
nature, unchanged from creation by the
hand OF man, was mine for complete
enjoyment. This, too, was enhancing
ly varied by occasional simultaneous
views OF marvellous character. Our
way led mainly along the southern or
Hungarian slopes. But now and then
my guide, Ludwig, VINO seemed 10 move
straight MS the flight OF q mountain
bird to his own ecrie, brought mo to
the very peaks OF tho dividing heights.
II 10 tho north the country slopod
across Galicia along the great Polish
plain into Russian Poland. Winter still
held all this land OF terror and faminn