New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-10-02
NEW STYLES THIS FALL.
WHAT The WELL-DRESSED MAN MAY
WEAR

In che spring the young mans fancy Is popularity
supposed lightly to turn to thoughts OF love. In the
fall the selfsamc fancy undoubtedly turns 10 thoughts
Of clothes The summer season Of negiige costumes
Is past. The Girl who loved him for himself
aloneor said she did-has passed beyond his horizon
and the more exacng metropolitan maiden who u
now queen of his affections. will lay more stress upon
the question OF stylish rament with her escort Fashion
has been rallied 10y the philosopher and the satir-
Isl from the beginning OF things. but on impartial In
vestigaion, its laws are found to have a basis on
reason and with all ITS arbitrary changes there Is
distinct and steady evolution toward better tastes,
better hygiene convenience and common sense. There
Is nothing particularly startling in the form and colors
Of the fall fashions for little gorgeousness In
ties, an additional quarter OF inch OF discomfort In
the collar. certain hardlhood I'm Drawing custom and
unobrusveness BY wearing dress coats OF rough
mixed goods in place OF he regulation broadcoth are
the only marked tendencies that cOud be questioned
by a quiet taste canvass OF the authorities has
| tablished the fact that the American "sartoo- who
wishes to be rcsartussed" In correct style should
hearken unto the following admontons
The hat block for the fan styles does not differ
terally from that OF last spring II Is little fuller in
the crown and there is decided curl In the brim
the band Is also trfe wider. The leading makers
turn them out In i've different helghths. to suit the
different sized men. The lowest is five inches high
and from this they up by quarter inches, the
width to the height Of the crown running from and
three-eighths inches to and fveeighths. and is
oed close 70 the crown. well trained salesman will
pick ont hat OF the proper height and breadth Of
bm for HIS customer. and onehalf the OF selling
hats lies In this point alone
The derby hats are made in three colors--black
coffee brown and seal brown: the last Is peculiarly
rich and pleasing shade, being unobtrusive and not
likely to fade. The demand for a lightweight hat has
led the principal makers to turn a part OF their
stock without Innings. These lightweight hats
fitted with the unglazed Interior band and so avoid
the objection that people have to a glazed band.
few hats made with the square crown for people
who insist on that style. The silk hat for this season
Is OF particularly graceful shape, with amount Of
bell" little less than that which distinguished last
seasons block. There is bell, on the sides than
on the front and snd the brm IS OF medium width
As In derby hats the bands broader than last sea-
son. There are two heights Of crown, one called the
young mans style and the other the mans style the
latter being one quarter Of inch higher. The dis.
tncon Is drawn the size of the wearer and not his
ize in any particular The hats are made up with
white loose Innings, with the stuck" Innings which
arc brown in color and make light weight hat.
While The silk hat i worn full dress occasions.
and the derby hat In the street. 1t is quite the
thing to wear soft hat during business hours
and generally with negnge costume. The most
stylish hat Of this kind is the tourist" or AIpnen
hat; these made IN all cOlors with both a
ronsi and smooth finish. The brm has a heavy
roll and the hat is creased in top OF the crown.
Ihcse SOFT hats are, OF course. made up with un-
glazed Interior lands All silk hats are furnished
With the glazed interior band unless otherwise
ordered by the purchaser. The reason why the
glazed band must he used with silk hats Is that the
head perspires considerably when silk hat Is worn,
ana the peispiration will penetrate unglazed
band and ruin the silk plush.
The most marked feature of change In the cut Of
mems clothing this fall is the greater length OF coats.
Frock coats are cut to come below the knee and
sack coats and getaways one and one-haIf
Inches or more longer than they were last season.
In every style OF ccat the extremely fashionable
man VIII wear rough goods. preferably dark grays
and dark mixed patterns. This holds true even in
dress coats; although. OF course, the conservative
majority r VII stick to the black cloth with dead
or to the longeotabIish he'd broadclotn. ''''''
trock coats are made with stitched edges. in place
have five buttonhoes, and designed to be worn
WITH three buttons In use. silk facngs will also "
bindings to initiate eording. Dress waistcoats aye
cut In w shape The white waistcoat EN-.
dressy man fancy double breasted wast-coats OF
moleshn 20 well with double, breasted frock coats.
medium amount Of opening. Trousers are made
nineteen about the knee Extremists may wear
them twenty In measurement; and at the bottom
they are made seventeen aud e-half. Patterns in
trousers s+, Oh ahobrusye stripes and checks viii be
with the more GS as THE aS n ss.
meaning that they fit closer TO the figure.
Light weight Over-cOats also made In rough
gray patterns, but the covert coat Will still be worn
Of light colored, smooth surfaced goods. Heavy
oyereoats are made almost entirely OF smooth goods
similar colors. The Inverness cape-coat will still
is to % made tIs to pg s dress and
goods: listers may be- worn coats made
OF mixed and, ana plaid goods with or without capes
The latest thing out in neckties is four-in.hand
scarf with larng ends made exclusively of six, and in
q great variety OF rch warm colorngs. The regular
ourin-hand still holds its own. 4 novelty soon to
come oHt is an English pua scarf witt Nat, fun puas
dress the old white ties still the thing. but they
come this season broader than usual the proper thne
The latest thing in collars a strag ht standing collar
with front points harng outwardiy little. 1hey run
are cut square principally and should be worn with
link buttons The best taste In dress-shlrts is dissyed
dress line OF embroidery as fine as II can be
obtained Is permissible along the overlapping edge
provision for three studs In the bosom In the ancient
manner but, as he's been well said the better taste Is
always to wear the two studs thereby avoiding the an
The taste in shlri-studs IS particularly quiet this
Of e1s e made Ss e ordinary hs S 5ne
tons particularly unobtrusive. In link cuff buttons.
the proper thing The latest thing in underwesr Is
selection Of natural woods Of pure Italian make which
are gorgeous bath gowns OF French manufacture
OF fine lambs.wool. lined With silk The bath gown OF
Turkish toweing still remains popular and Is sold with
moccasins OF the same material and color Dressing
in rich red and blue and gray and black colors.
worked up in elaborate Persian patterns made up
OF soft Angora woods. and worn with girde. Hand
kerchefs plain white with narrow borders. Plain
linen is the proper thing for full-dress. Walking
gloves come in - fans" and brownsr and are "seff
backed having embroidery. Dress gloves are Of
pearl-white and have a stitching OF the same shade on
The back. novelty handled by dealers in furnishing
goods Is double breasted waterproof coat OF melton,
in black blue or brown colors, with velvet collar and
large smoked pearl buttons.
Men who wish to be shod In the latest and most
startling fashion find n novelty this season in the
shape OF russell shoe for fall wear II is made In
oiled. grained calf and Is Of the Bucher cut. The
Rucher consists Of n flexible front with overlapping
flaps This is nothing but the oldfashioned brogan,
dignifed by foreign name. Another rather "louds
thing Is lighter weight shoe made OF calfskin.
This finish produces slightly reddish tint ard has
nap on the outside like undressed kid Dressshoes
either Of new soft leather called bols de soie.s
or OF the old flvOrite Datent leather The dressshoes
are perfectly plain with tips and the patent leather