The record-union., 1892-03-19

Il u ~ u
affectionate, true-hearted and unassum-
ing lives and ways is to find in every
expression of Maltese female loyelineSs
an added and lasting charm.
The shops of Valetta are peculiar in
their character. OF late years Malta has
become such an important winter resort
for English and continental visitors, and
such great numbers of sightseers for
day are now certain to be deposited by
the dozen or more steamers making daily
arrivals, that the shops OF Strada Reale
and Grand Rue have gradually taken on
the character of 81 grand baZar OF the
more fragile and costly products of all
Mediterranean and Levantine countries.
Merchants from Tangier, merchants
from Fez, merchants from .AlgierS and
Tunis. merchants from Cairo, Alexandra
and Constantinople, Persian and Arabian
merchants, Italian merchants and Span
lsh, even the thrifty Swiss, with their
curios from the mountains, and the
ubiquitous. Japanese, all with their most
tempting ge1cre, are here, living together
IN mutual good will; and with tailors
from London, perfumers and modistes
from Paris, and cafetiers from Greece, fur
nlsh more bewildering display and va
riety of costly wares and luXuries than
could be found, save by . connOlSseur III
Paris, London or New York.
This not only adds greatly to the charm
and interest of the street scenes and dis
plays, but tends toward luXuriousness in
habit and life on the part of those enjoy
ing the winter upon the islands. These
folk, as q rule, are drawn from the wealth
lest OF the English, German and French.
They live sunptuously at the great ho-
tells, at clubs or in private villas in the SUI
burbs of Naletta, the principal of which
IS SHema, where the elegance and dis
play IS not outriValed in the London
West End The English Government of
Malta has provided splendid driveways
and greatly improved the country roads.
Indeed in the c0stiiness of apparel, in the
magniiicence Of the shops, in the throngs
OF fair women OF the northern type, and
i'll the superb displays III riding aud driv-
ing that IN any winter afternoon may be
seen along upper Strada Reale and Grand
Rue, and from Porta Reale through Flo
rlana around to Sliema, and over every
white driveway leading to the interior,
constantly remind one OF the throngs of
Regent street, and the morning process
sion OF stately equipages in London's IA
nous Rotten Row.
Every stranger in Malta viii visit the
great Church of st. John. Ii stands to-
day as it left the Grand Masters hands.
save in what it was deprived Of by Bona
parties looting. If not perfect in archi-
tectural grace, its exterior, which is sur
mounted by the Maltese Cross, is massive
and stately, while the interior, with its
historic associations ever in mind, is
wonderfully impressive. 1t is gorgeous
with every species Of decoration. The
high altar is respIendent with silver,
gold and precious gems. 1t occupies the
center OF the choir, and at either side are
low dalseS beneath crimson canopies,
with a solitary chair on each-one for the
Catholic Bishop of Malta, and the other
dedicated to the Protestant ruler of Eng
land. Above the latter are royal arms.
Not the least interesting in features of
the Church of st. John are the chapes of
language and the memorial vaults Of de-
parted knights. The nave is long and
wide, and the walls are tretted in curious
devices, gilt with sequin gold. Approach
ing the aiSleS on either side the eve rests,
as through golden arches, upon a range
OF small dome-crOWned chapels the altar
pieces OF which are curious old paintings
These were the chapeIS of the different
languages or nations, as of France, Italy,
Provence, Auyergne, etc, and these are
extraordinarily rich in noble monuments
in marble and bronze.
The Virgin Chapel, hidden from the
body Of the church by the choir, posses
ses balustrade of massive silver, and
here are to be seen the keys of three
cities OF strength, over which the knights
OF st. John once ruled-Jerusalem Acre
and Rhodes. Standing out from the dark
paneling of the choir Immediately behind
the altar, sculptured in white marble, is a
representation ofthe Baptism of Christi
1t is the work of Maltese artists of the
seventeenth century, and L have not seen
It's superior in any of the famous churches
of Europe. The high boldly-arched
vaulting of the roof is entirely covered
with paintings representing scenes and
incidents in the life of ST. John. and the
tapestries that hang below, which are said
to have cost $4,000, are of wonderful pro-
portions and beauty.
Between the pillars, separating the nave
and the alSleS, are many monuments.
some encrusted with jasper and agate,
and all OF unrivaled richness and grand
eur. 1t is said that at least every surface
square loot OF the vast structure covers
the body of once valiant knight: the
monuments to Grand Masters and arch
1tectS and painters engaged in the embeI-
lishment of the edifice are beWilderinp in
their frequency and magniticence. and
the entire structure stands to-day
grand, yet pathetic, mausoleum and re-
minder of the power and glory of those
Christian warriors of a heroic and chiyal-
rouS past.
This constant mingling of reminis-
cenees of medieval heroism with every
other quality and object so strange and
unique in Eastern life and ways, the
w ihOlO LIZ iibSltSO Wy lIlG SdiblGS ana Drill
liances of the thousands of wealthy
strangers of your own kind and tongue.
is one OF the most fascinating sensations
to be experienced i'll any city Of the Medi-
terranGan.
Wherever you turn you are confronted
by majestic or exquisite relics of former
grandeur carrying its material splendor
into the present, and weirdly coniuring
the forms, faces and lofty motive of those
who built. Everything you see shows
you modern power adapting the sepuI-
chers OF the most lustrous chivalry the
world ever knew to the practical and un-
poetic uses of far-reaching diplomacy
and aggressive acquisition. And every
thing you hear illustrates how the warm,
vigorous blood Of to-day is flowing back
upon all the East and it's dead past,
thrilling new and better life into its
mummied old frame.
EDGAR L. WAKEMAN,
For the RECoRD-UNIoN.I
HOPE AND WAIT.