Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1892-09-09

! anges, grapes ana ngS, are there, also, and
we look out upon all this from our seats at
table. We breakfast at 8, dine at 2, tea at
I o'clock. Three courses at breakfast, six
and seven at dinner three at tea.
Today party was to visit the Caldiera.
an extinct volcano, the chief sight of Fay
al, but clouds on Pico foretold dull day.
and the trip is deferred. We 90 in the
| quaintest of carriages five miles, then on
donkeys from Flamingos, scrambing over
cinders and rocks to the summit, where we
look down 1900 feet into the water. This
morning we went up Monte da Guia. a
high point of the harbor, over slippery
rocks, but the view of Graciosa and the
ocean westward was reward.
We were exceedingly fortunate in GUS
tom house matters. Captain Hale and his
steward Jacinto (meaning Hyacnth),
stand very high in the community's opin-
ion, and word from them brought our
baggage from the custom house with no
unlocking of trunks, and every one has
been anxious to do anything for the COM
fort and pleasure of the Sarah's passen-
| gers. Our party has been one of the
| pleasantest imaginable.
The mercury is $50 with frequent show
ePs. The houses seem cold, but outside
the air is warm and lovely when the sun
shines.
PoNTA DELGADA, ST. MICHAEL,
AzoRIAN HOTEL,
January a. 1891. )
The Vega is due here from Lisbon in a
day or two, bound to New York. 1t be-
longs to the Portuguese and is the steamer of
the new line running between Lisbon and
New FORK this is only her second trip. The
harbor is always an interesting sight, for
foreign vessels run in for supplies Just
at present there are some six or eight here
One, an English steamer going from New
foundand to Liverpool, struck fearful
storm only day or two out from New
foundland and lost her compass and charts,
and the captain navigated her safely here!
She is being repaired and will leave soon;
we are to inspect her today. Another in
teresting sight was steamer from Ger
many with 800 passengers on board; she
took on POO more from here and then
steamed off to Brazil to help populate
there. A large gathering of peasants wept
and walled and prayed on the quay all day
of the departure. 1t is said these people
will do much better in Brazil than in the
old countries so Over-settled already
The city has quite an imposing break
water begun some 30 years ago, and it will
take many yet to complete it; but even
now it saves the water coming in and
breaking over part of the town. The wa
ter comes with tremendous force, coming
clear from the Antarctic ocean with no
break.
On the night of the Bird of January we
had an earthquake, said to be the most Sc
we're for 40 years. 1t was severe enough,
and very impressive, to feel the enormous
stone buildings, all built for withstanding
earthquakes and with walls - to 36 inches
thick, sway back and forth. 1t was ac-
cOmpanied with a loud report, and the
shaking and rumbling noise lasted full -
minutes. Some 30 miles into the country
houses were overthrow and assure into
the earth made. The people, who are
very supersttious, were much frightened
(they usually build another church after
such an eXperience) and rang all the bells
for day and night and neglected work
of all kinds except praying.
Bells are rung at sunset, and then all
the men take off their hats or caps for
few seconds. Every few days comes
saints day, when no work is done; not for
love or money can one induce a man to
work, so that there are about $50 working
days only in a year. The stores are all
open on Sunday till ? o'clock. On saints
day three acolytes from a church march by
carrying a horrible statue of the virgin,
Jesus or of the saint in palanqun, and
all passersby remove hats and devoutly
watch and wait till the spectacle is past.
On one of these days a special service was
held at the church of Sainte Christie, to
which a nunnery is attached. The nuns
are all in an upper gallery which is secure
ly rallied off, but are seen in their black
and white wells behind the grating. At
this service the nuns of the white vail
sang, many priests offciated and all the al
tars were lighted 4 famous statue is in
this church and seldom shown to the pub
lie. 1t is decorated with all sorts of rare
jewels, estimated at the worth of a million
dollars, and they are constantly sending to
it cargoes of sugar and other products
from Brazil. There are never any seats in
churches; every one kneels till 1t is I'M
bearabe and then tlops over into some sit
ting position. All the women wear ca
potes, which are huge bonnet structures,
fiaring enormously behind and in front, the
wearer's face being way in sort of tunnel,
and long capes hang to the ground. They
are made of dark blue, heavy CLOTH cost
$50 apiece, and every woman saves until
she can buy one, which lasts lifetime.
Few wear boots, and those who do wear
Jne WOODEN SaDOtS, winch SOUND on the
pavements so much like the dOnkeys' steps
it is hard to tell which are passing.
This city is most interesting one, is
third in size and importance of the POrtu-
guese cities, and has many attractions for
me in sketching, although as yet l have
done little. | never saw such a hOspitable
race; we are known as the Americanos all
over the city, and from our being present
ed to one of the first Portuguese families
soon after our arrival, we are receiving the
kindest sort of attention from a dozen
more; such, for instance, as an invitation
to come and eat oranges from to 0! which
means inspecting two or three magnificent
gardens and eating of all fruits land there
are so many kinds have never heard of
and music and dancing in the evening,
with Portuguese tea, which is such pref
ty affair. Yesterday the Oliveiros took us
to their 'quinta," which means their sum-
mer house, an extensive place in a suburb,
casually taking in their gardens by the
way.
The hotel is semi-POrtuguese and Amer
lean, though the prOpretOrs and all wait
ers are Portuguese, and we talk and ask
for things in their language. The wealth
er is very good, has not been lower than