Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1892-12-18
SOCIETY LAST WEEK.
LITTLE THOUGHT GIVEN TO ANY
THING BUT CHRISTMAS FtxINas.
OId-TIme Dinners aud rbose of tho Pres
ent--Preparing for Big Balls. Ger
mans, and Other Event.

Custom fixed a good many things the
reason for which 10 not immediately APP
parent. Yet little careful consideration
usually brings to the light cause, though
its origin may have occurred long centu-
ries before from conditions no longer ex-
istent. With the Christmas festival there
naturally exists the idea of fesst-Dot IS
the principal or distinguishing obsery-
ance, lbut as one of its accessories. This
factor doubtless came from the heathen
festivals which the Christian day was
inaugurated TO displace and from when
IL borrowed as much as could be admitted
10 its sanctioned obseTvances. Our great
great-grandfathers kept the Christmas
feast in joyial fashion, for every dish
placed smoking on the board had pecu-
liar significance of its own and was In
vested with halo of traditional and time
honored associations.
The piece de resistance of the feasts Of those
days used 10 be the boar's head with an
apple or an orange in the mouth, set oil
with sundry rich and complex dishes, OF
which we have still the plum-pudding and
mincC-ple as survivors.
Gradually, as the nature Of the celebra-
ton sottened somewhat, the uncouth
boar's head gave place to the substantial
roast of beef, dressed Ia mode with all
the condiments for which the date and day
were noted, until the advent of the roast;
ed peacock, which came into universal
favor--a dish which must have sorely test
ed the cooks skill. and which was. after
all, more decorative than toOthsome.
The skin, with the.plumage attached, was
stripped off, and the bird. roasted and
stuffed with spices and sweet herbs, was
carefully sewed up again in its gorgeous
reathers. its gilded beak holding bit OF
lighted cotton, saturated with alcohol.
1t WAS the privilege of the falrest lady to
carry on this dish. and of the most honored
guest TO carve 1t. When particularly
ambitious art-effect was desired the pea
cock was served up in PIE, Its plumed
head appearing on one side over the crust
and Its magnificent tail sweeping the
table from the other.
II was but step from this inconvenient
though handsome dish 10 the Christmas
goose" which became in q majority OF the
homes of the rich and the poor the centre
of the feast. No custom was ever more
universal than that OF cooking the
goose" on festive occasions. and many are
the amusing proverbs which grew out OF II.
The Christmas goose" held sway in
England until the American colonies,
which swarmed with wild turkeys, adopt
ed that bird as the Distinguishing factor
IN the Thanksgiving feasts of the trans
atlantic settlers. To be sure, there was no
Thanksgiving in Great Britain IN con-
nection with which to adopt this most de-
sirable of all food birds; but as the nearest
approach thereto was the Christmas feast,
the turkev was adopted as the typical bird
Of that occasion, and for nearly two Gen.
turtles has held the place Of honor in the
mother country as well as in America.
As common as 1t is with US, 1t IS hard "a
realize how many families there are who
never, even on festival OCCASIONS. which
are commemorative of every blessing
which Heaven bestows, can indulge IN
such Injuries, and these should be remem-
bered By the more fortunate and tbeE
hearts gladdeDed by gifts Of such substan-
tial nature. The question, How to enjoy
Christmas!" may be readily answered,
by helping others to enjoy it."