The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1892-08-07


crhciixes. holy water, nuns, etc, that
abound ia the shops show that the traffic
IN those articles is still flourishing. Among
other curiosities which the stranger may
inspect, is an image factory, where saints
and angels are made TO order, or repaired
II any have been so unfortunate as to lose
nose or leg, or any other member.
IN THE MARKET SQUARE
there are three things, besides the people,
which especially attract the attention OF
foreigners Tobacco, done up in hard,
round rolls wrapped with shredded palm
leaves the size aud shape OF bologna sau-
sage, varying in length from one 10 four
yards; the beautiful linen lace which the
women make by hand, somewhat resem-
bling the finest torchOp, and the feather
flowers that are peodled about the streets
IN glass-covered boxes. These flowers
are peculiar to Brazil, and for many years
were peculiar TO Bahia, being made by no.
body else but the nuns of Santa Catarina,
who derived considerable revenue from
their sale. But IN course Of time the art
spread beyond the convent walls, and is
now carried on to some extent both IN Para
and Rio. The flowers are constructed en-
tirely from the feathers of birds in their
natural colors, it is claimed, but though
Brazilian birds have more varied and
brilliant plumage than those OF any other
part of the world, l am inclined TO
believe that some of these tints
are due TO the dye pot At any rate Tie
hoNers are perfect limitations OF nature, so
exact in every detail that you mag put
cluster of them beside another from the
garden and find il impossible TO tell (which
Is which" except by the senses OF smell or
touch. There are hyacinths and yiolets In
their delicate blues and puppies, pansies In
endless variety, roses, lines, carnations,
passion flowers, orange blossoms and ali
the gorgeous blooms of the tropics. OF
course they are expensive, and some OF the
bouquets are rendered more costly by tiny
humming-Dirds suspended over them by
invisible wires-the winged gems for which
this country is famous, preserved by taxi
dermy. The third tramway line leads
along the seml-circular shore Of the bay TO
the northern extremity of the city, called
Montserrat. 1t passes the Carmelite con-
vent. the summer homes Of wealthy Creole
and Portuguese citizens, the leper's hos
pital, the yellow fever hospisal, and
picturesque row of tumble-down fortitica-
tons. On the extreme point of the tongue
of land called Montserras stands little
church, which the Portuguese F'riRrs built
more than two hundred and fifty years ago.
The inscription over Its doorway is still
legible, despite sea gales and equatorial
rains--"A Virgin fol concebdR sem
peccaQO original - and Its mushrooms aped
altar of carved mahogany is worth coming
far to see. The view of Bahia and its sur
roundings from this point is truly magnii
cent-the antique town, with its queer
buildings struggling up and down the hill
sides, the numerous grass grown forts, the
varied shipping, the palm-cOvered island of
Itaparica and the white capped pillows
beyond, and on the other hand a limitless
sea Of verdure stretching to the horizon.
OTHER OBJECTS oE INTEREST.
Returning to town, we may leave the
tram and make several short excursions
on foot. In the upper city there is the old
cathedral. which is said to De the largest and
most costly church editice in Brazil; and
close by il is the ArchiepiscOpal palace and
seminary. Then there is the church of
Nossa Senhors ds Conceicao, on the Rue
da Praya, which was almost built in
Europe, its stones having been all cut
fitted and numbered on the other side of
the Atlantic. The governors palace, TOO
q substantial structure OF ancient date
fronting q small, open square-deserves
q visit. a governor" as now under
stood, is brand new institution in Brazil,
you know, for in the days of the empire
each province was directly governed by q
president appointed by Dom Pedro. The
emperor's choice was by nc means re-
stricted TO the province to be governed
and the stranger president enjoyed all'th
powers and perqnisities of a viceroy in
colonial times. FANNIE B. WARD.