The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1892-09-09
ATHENS, OLD AND NEW.
An American Traveller in the Cap
ital Of Greece.
a Wonderful Mixture of the Ancient and
Modern-Ths Rock from which
Demosthcnes Delivered His
Incompatible Orations.
Especial Athens (creece) letter.


of the Parthenon. 1t was from the deck
of a steamer, just as we had passed the
straits O. Salamis. There, in the dis
lance ca the Acropolis, stood the re-
mains of the beautiful temple Of
Minerva, the symbol of all that is glo-
rious in Greek history and art. Greece
is more visited than it used to be, vet
comparatively few travellers include
this classic land in their itinerary;
partly because travel in Greece has
been made comfortable only in recent
years. Until within fifteen years there
were only five miles of railroad in
Greece, and that from the Peiraeus to
Athens, while carriage roads were ex.
ceedingly rare and hotel accommoda.
lions almost none outside of Athens.
Then, travellers have Stunned Greece
because of the conviction that life was
not safe there.
In 1874 Lord Moncaster and two
friends, on their way to Marathon, were
captured by brigands A large sum was
demanded for their ransom. The money
not being produced when demanded
the unfortunate travellers were muir.
dered. The government pursued the
brigands, captured the ringleaders and
stuck up their heads on the square in
Athens.
In times of trouble on the Turkish
frontier brigands have usually infested
the mountains and rendered travel un.
safe. Two years after the above trag.
edy we travelled over the same road
from Athens to Marathon, and passed
over the same bridge from beneath
which sprang the brigands who cap
tured Lord Moncaster and his friends
We were not molested, even in the DESC
late defiles near Marathon nor among
the heights of Mount Parnassus at
Delphi. We ought to have notified the
government of our intention to make
the trip. Our plans were known, how.
ever, and guard of soldiers was sent,
who lowered near us all the time.
There is practically no danger to-day.
Railroads are multiplying and the
country is quiet.
The trip to Athens is usually taken
now by travellers to the Orient, going
or coming, and the visit is one that is
exceedingly rich. Every student of his
tory wants to visit the great fountain
head of philosophy and art Greece has
played q wonderful part in the history
of civilization, and her relation to the
present is of great Importance. You
land at the Peiraeus, as anciently so,
now the port of Athens. The harbor is
. deep basin, with a narrow entrance
20 narrow that anciently only three
trireines could row abreast through it.
1t was customary in times of war to
stretch a chain across it. The distance
to Athens is five miles. The road skirts
the site Of the ancient long walls built
by Pericles. The railroad station is
near by the temple of Theseus, which,
with its elegant columns, is among the
first sights to greet the travellers eye.
You perceive that the Greek is not a
dead language by any means. Greek
signs, Greek cries, Greek newspapers
meet your eye and ear. The old conju-
cations and declensions which floored
you in school days are now living and
forcible on the lips of young men and
maidens, porters and cab men.
1t seems strange to read the name of
the streets-Socrates street, Plato
street, or to hear a Greek woman shout
ing after her youngsters the names of
the old philosophers and poets. The
Greek language as used to-day is much
akin to the Greek of Xenophon. 1t is
more like it than Italian resembles
ancient Latin.
On the plain of Attica three great
hills stand up boldly-the hill Of the
MUSES., the Acropolis and Mount Lyca-
bettus. The Acropolis rises about 500 feet
from the plain and covers an area less
than ten acres. On it is the great group
of buildings which made Athens SO
famous in art. 1t was after the Persian
wars, whose ravages devastated Athens,
that the Greek genius rose to the
highest pitch. Then Pericles sum-
moned to his aid Phidias and a brilliant
galaxy of architects and sculptors, and
Athens poured forth the treasures
gained as trophies in the war besides
the tribute of thousand cities, and in
little less than a generation, in the
fifth century B. c., the Acropolis was
covered with buildings which for grace
and beauty have never been surpassed.