New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1892-10-09
THE FASHIONS.
EMPIRE STYLES TO PREVAIL.
PRETTY HATS AND BONNETs-sTYLEs FOR THE
NrnnrF.cFn-NrW TRIMMINGS.


MIDDLE-AGED-NEw TRIMMINGS.
The delay OF importations caused by quarantine ar
rangemens ana the fear of cholera has undoubtedly
affected openings OF fashionable goods this season.
While the public were I'm nceitaln state as to the
immincncc OF cholera season. stores have been wary
about dis playing which they had inportcd' Ane
present brisk weather and immunity from the cho'era
have been encouraging to the tradespeopc. ana
the delayed mporations being rapidly brought TO
the city There has naturally been much sm~ier
order for imported goods this season. owing 10 the 70
srictons Of the tariff and many fair DANES VINO nave
prded themselves wearing Engusn ciotis'
will now American Ones whether they KNOW "
or nofor their talors find these goods equai 10
the imported ones and lower In price.
The millinery goods, which among the first fash
ionabe goods imported have been in this country lor
some time There is decided tendency toward the
Empire fashions which the foreign modises are iorc'hg
upon their customers. The tiny crowned bonnets' Win
their broad fiat brims. which are familiar 70 u5 III oo
engravngs OF the first part OF this century, are again
the model for fashion, Such bOnnes are seen In Crui'
shankss drawings. which though later than the period
Of the Empire probably The most familiar example
CT this type OF bonuct. The tasse crown ana the
broad brim often give the bonnet a most prohouhcen
appearance, making It more becoming to young puans
faces than to maturer ones. For women VINO are past
their first youth there many small bonnets. litue
over the head. Round English turbans. with soft rims
velvet and soft often OF the material OF the
dress will be chosen by quite young ladlcs LOT MORN
ing and travelling wear. There are also many rouno
hats with low crowns and moderately wide brms which
frame the face IN halo style. The most fashionable
hat for rough and ready wear Is an Alpine nat Win
denied crown and rolled brm. This nay be MADE oS
enc felt or rough beaver, or tor woolen OF the
dress, quilted in parallel Of stitching to gave It
proper frrnncss T,is hal may match the costume or
may be chosen IL tan gray In contrast TO H. lhero
arc many hats OF rough beaver, with an under surface
OF color either red or blue and long shaggy hairs
of black which nearly it. The trimming for these
hats IS Il TRIPLE band of gros grain ribbon. about an
inch wide and tied in close little cra>at bows on the
left side sometimes single herons quill Is stuck In
the left side.
The tendency of all the new trimmings for bonnets
is raj her low though there many nsrettes OF Jet.
ard fancy aigrees, tipped with paque OF gay feat-
ers which give height to the trimming The "tasse'
crown is 90 small that 1t hardly adds to the height
Of the bonnet when 1t is trimmed. Fancy wings ana
tufts of feathers. made from the breasts OF hummng-
birds impeyans' plumes, ophophore feathers and all
others which combine the fashionable greens and p1on
blues are in demand. There Is great deal OK inr
on some OF the new hats for winter. and this Is
combined with velvet and lace in the most coquetusn
manner possible.
The most prominent SHADES in millinery are the
greens. the puppies. and dahla shades ana tho
ight neutral tints There are many rose coors ana
bronze green's. Eminencc' Is new shade OF purple,
dark dahliaIlke hue shading from the reddish purple
of Russian yolets All the Old paon shades Of buegrecn
are revived and the cold gray blues Of last summer
still remain fashionable There are many pae-nued
hats which are trimlled with black for contrast.
Thus clesson green Is trimmed with black, ana pale
bluc velvet hats are finished with high clusters OF
black feathers ChestuutbrOw hats are relieved with
col1r
loops which are drawn up to form ruched border
in variety Of tweed colors. and suitable to wear
with gay mixed tweeds which are now maze up oy
tailOrs for autumn wear. Such hats are alhiost III
valably relieved by black wings placed on both sizes
Of the hat as they are Mercury's cap or
perhaps the hat may be trimmed with cluster OF
heron's plumes ravens qui's. The Mercury ar
rargement Of the wings is repeated In velvet tabs
which stand out on each side os the bonnet Ike hugo
ears and though modified by the fashionable munher
into stylish CURES they hardly be said to be grace
ful in themselves on the large black velvet cavalier
hats there are full trimmings Of black plumes ana
large buckles Of rinesones, or pins set WITH oiiiahs
IaIi,ian Jewels.
MIllners not only make hats. and mufs TO matcn
them but short iaunty capes. reaching but Few
inches over the shoulders and trimmed with 'e'es
or lace or jet combination with fur like the bonnet
The little hand -muf is then OF fur complhed Win
velvet a pretty CONNECTION of the miners art. quite
Empire sets as they called. will be affected oy
women for wearing with elegant calling costumes. or
n. o'clock teas. 4 handsome set OF this Nhu III
emincnce purple has an Empire hat. WIN sudsn.
broad velvet brm, tasse' crown. uihimeu Win
head and tail Of Russian sable. Tic sum- poh"u
ends like Mercury's wings sand up on each s'oo
n, tho crown near the 'front.' and there is cluster
~ ridascent aicrettes OF purpls hue in front Tie
little cane to be with this hat is OF fur nnishea
with pieces Of velvet and lace. pulled up on eac"
side 10 give high effect on the SHOULDERS oomc-
times this pulled effect Is omitted ana the cape iais
unite plain on the shoulders and In sharp poi'
ovor the sleeve These coquetish little capes are
hold I'm place rs long sashes OF satin rioooh' aoou'
two inches vide which begin in the centre Oh the
hack at the edge Of the wrap and are brougnl lot
ward and tied In a bow ut the waist III lroh'' Nos'
furs like sealsin and Persian lamb. arc mos, sun
ohe 10 combine with velvet and lace and are chieny
used for these capcs. though sabies are always
considered in GOOD taste.
The new changcable vclvets which are the most
striking novelty OF the season usually thro" ou' pN
and green lights though there velvets In silver
ana turquoise blue. eminence purple, Dark ree
oahlia shade, witch show lights of pale INT "
1.nr,na violet These vclvets seem to be woven VIVID
an under surface of chanseablc color under dnrH
nan OF still third shade. such velvets as these "e
ucd not only as mere millinery, but for entire re-
cepon cowns with rich trimmings OF creamy Nene'
tian laceS set fronts, Dihels anu Sce'o Ni"F
ming. with boufant shoulder pun. some Oh tns
now vovc,s are crossed with narrow bands OF black
volvet on a pale rose mauve, gold or green MORE
Aground
Satin broche effects by means entirely
onopdoned There are many stripes OF roses ana
oliovor aeures OF ineracing wheatheads and similar
doscns in leafy effects Dainty white grosgrains Tor
evening dresses rather than for bridal wear, are
striped with OF fine lines In gold and silver
,oro,od hr tvoinch stripes, brocaded thickly with
doiev heads There are pale yellow, sky blue and
,,onx rose satins in similar patterns. There ars
,rctty satin and grosgain stripes, brocaded with
paronds of roses for fair young women White satins
g., Injured with lilacs, morning g0ries In tangled
aiocs ar with palm leaves In pale rose, Nile green
ar nacre pink figures Ike balls or palm leaves
formed OF daisies or butercups are other designs.
hniniy example OF the Russian Golf has q round.