Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-01-02
FATTENED TO MAKE PIES.
Geese Forced to Gorge Themse in Or.
der to Make Pate de FOie Gras.
From the Cincinnati Enquirer.

oeese rorceu TO gorge themselves In Or.
der to Make Pate de Foie Gras.
From the Cincinnati Enquirer.
stufing live geese for livelihood.
This is the highly peculiar industry followed
by number Of old women in this city who are
regarded as experts in their novel profession.
1t is this class of workers that produce the
luxurious foundation of the epicurean dish pate
de foie gras, the goose liver pie of Strasburg.
SO highly esteemed by gourmands.
Their art consists in causing the livers Of the
geese to become abnormally large and tender,
the special kind that must be used in the prepa-
ration OF the dish, SO the chefs say. People
who know say tina. the process consists in Civ
ing the unfortunate goose disease of the liver
and killing him In time to save him from
dying natural death.
These geese, with but few exceptions, are
sold to one man, Henry Adler, q restaurateur,
who is known all over the United States by
reason OF his novel business Not only are the
livers sold throughout the city. but they are
shipped to Boston, New York and other places
the market prices being about 81. 80 for each.
The business Is paying one, both for the
feeder and the merchant, a good margin of
profit being made by both. 1t takes about
three or four weeks to fatten a goose, the ex-
pense being comparatively nothing while the
price OF the fowl doubles and trebles, accord
ing to the demand. In addition to the sale Of
the iivers the merchant realizes quite hand
somely on the sale of what are known as ''crack-
iings," and which consists Of goose skin roasted
and otherwise prepared SO to be palatable
The women who follow this business usually
procure four or five at the time. although in
the busy season it is thought nothing TO keep
dozen in the fattening pen.
Great care is exercised in getting good sound
birds in the market.
Being brought home they are placed in q
dark shed or cellar. Their food is corn. boiled
until tender. This is crammed down their
threats twice day, the goose being taken be-
tween the knees and firmly held while its crop
is stuffed full of the fattening preparation. In
some cases the bird is nailed to a board, small
tacks being driven through the web of its feet
Usually, however, they are given chance to
waddle about for an hour every morning.
They are then cooped up until the next dav
At the end Of the fifth week, if the fattening
process goes along well. the goose is bled to
death, an lncision being made in the neck fer that
purpose. Next it Is picked dry and as min utely
as possible. not even the down being allowed to
remain. This is hard work, and is one of the
reasons why a fattened goose is so expensive.
After having been picked it is next skinned.
The SKIN Is then cut into squares, a goose fur
nishlng between one and two dozen ''crack-
hngs, which the squares of skin become when
cooked The goose Is then opened and the
AA'SA saAOu ous. Al WtlSut IL ID from one TO
two and half pounds. and of a creamy brown
color, the fattening process having bleached it.
his is placed In running water until it is time
to deliver it to the merchant.
Smoked goose breasts are quite a delicacy.
and they are prepared by these women like
wise, the smoking process being a very sim ple
one. After having been cut up the goose.
which In market had cost about ST 25 becomes
worth between 50 and "a. according to the
size OF the liver and to the demand in the
market.
The ivers when sen. to Mr.. Adler are made
into plates, or, being packed on ice, arc shipped
to every point. In preparing the livers MIR.
Adler, who has been the caterer OF the Allie
malan and Phoenix Clubs. has acquired a repu-
tation that is national. There is peculiar
knack in the process that his rivals have not
been able to acquire, ana he has thus secured
the field to himself This art he learned In
Germany from a most famous master In the
goose liver trade, and it is now said that he
exceeds his master in proficiency.
The 'crackiings, which are the SQUARES
Of goose skin baked to crisp, are greatly
relished in connection with the pate and COM
mand so cents the half dozen. This price is
liable to fuctuation, sometimes being doubled
The goose breasts, being easier to get, are much
cheaper and are not regarded rs being cpl
curean, although many people are fond of
them.