The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-11-13
THE WOMEN OF FASHION
TIE EMPIRE AS SEEN IN EVENING
GOWNS.
Its Diversified Forms-some Dresses
Silks-A Magnificent Dinner Dress.


Pearl Passementeries.
(CoDWi9ht.l
NEW YORK, Nov. l2.-There is no golden
mean in evening robes this winter.
You may either look delightfully."-
simple, girlish and measuring. or par.
ticularly magnificent, regal and impressive.
That is the beauty Of the empire If de-
sired. no style can be made to look richer,
handsomer. more overawing; but if you
yearn for sweet simplicity. behold it in the
empire, with It's soft, fine effects.
Never did l see this more strikingly e1
emplified than at the moment when looked
at two evening toilets, lying side by side in
fashionable modiste's Both had an en-.
pire touch, and yet one was all lightaess
and delicacy, the other all splendor and
Eagniicence.
The first was in pale water-green satin,
cut low and square, aud fitted close to the
figure. Over it hung loosely, or fl ated-as
they say so much more expressively in
! French-a tuniG of cream lace The deli
cate edge of it stood up above the decollete
corsage, and just beneath lay band of
rosebuds, the buds went up over the shout
ders as we'll, and around the edge Of the
| lace at the foot. High-standlng, short lace
rutiles formed the sleeves.
The second was velvet and was cut in a
deep, rounding point at the neck. I'M
| mense shot velvet putfs for slice es and a
! long, full train added to the rich effect.
which was slightly toned, however, by an
! empire cloak IN cream lace that partially
| covered it, The cloak was fastened TO the
| low-cut neck In front, but then swept away
on either side 80 completely that none Of it
could be seen in front save its large seal
I q aNW
| almost completely. A dull gold passe-
menterie belt clasped the black velvet.
IA woman with most magnificent skin, -
! said the great parsonage who had designed
the gown, Twill wear that dress. She will
not wear single ornament with it, and the
effect of the black velvet will only DO eu-
| HANGED by the absence of jewels
THE lace tunics and overdresses are very
| popular Ever so many women have
brought dresses from Paris this year with
| these loose lace effects. They're often very
| deceptive and lend beauty to the dress
underneath, which doesn't merit tn
| Then she showed me another, cut in th @
| style of 1880, which is also being success
| fully revived. All we seem to care about
| at present is to find out what our great
| grendmothers wore, and proceed to copy as
| closely as possible Ii is to be hoped that
we contine ourselves simply to copying
| gowns. For If we ever take to the Quaint
old bonnets Of those days. woe be unto us.
There would be no hope for us then | trow.
! The dresses are pretty and very becoming
| but what about the bonnetss From what
have seen of them, l should say it was
almost hopeless trying to look anything
! but hideous or ridiculous in one OF them.
The 1880 dress was very youthful looking
| 1t was a dinner dress for very young girl
| and was made of light China blue fouiard
| Three rutties in mousseline de sole, finely
an, k,..,yN ~,A 10 a.
| skirt. The ruftles were 30 far apart that the
| top one came within twelve ches of tie
| narrow gold belt that mad little pendants In
| wrought gold at the clasp. The rutfie at
| the edge was a tiny one; the one about
| twelve inches above was considerably
deeper-I should say about six inches; so
was the top one. A berthe of this same lace
went around the low neck, and tie short
bell sleeves had lace ruffles also
By this time | was so interested in evening
| gowns that | wanted to see more, and so
betook me to another place. Having eX-
pressed my harmless desire there was
brought out for my Inspection a beautiful
ball dress that fell quite in love with. 1t
was pale oorn-yellow, made of bengaine,
and in a particularly simple style. At the
| edge Of the skirt there was no adornment, a
| fact that | noted with little surprise. The
| yellow was simply turned in a deep hem. At
| the top of the hem, however, was a garland
! of rp.es, strung alone, with no stems or
leaves. These were very pae-justa touch
! of yellow in their centers. The roses hung
| in scallOps all arc nd. At the edge OF the
bodice they were laid, also; this bodice was
cut off perfe thy straight, from shoulder to
shoulder, back and front, but not very low,
aud had short bell pulled sleeves. The yell
low belt, which was simply ribbon knoJted
and hanging in streamers in front. was
covered at the knot by more ros es.
! ha,. \ "A saIa .,k :,
full ones they were. First # all was the new
one from Paris called ondine. Though it
has quite different name, in appearances it
is considerably like bengalne. 1t a
wavy, heavy satin thread running through
| it, like cord flattened out. Then, of course
there is always brocade. beautiful, fas-
| cinatiug brocade, with its delicate gold
embroidery and exquisite des gn and COL
oring. saw some combinations, too, of a
single-colured or brOcade cOmbi led with a
satin stripe that had small flower or leaf
| patterns In IL. One was particularly beau
| tlfll-a dull blue brocade with large IVY
leaves closely wrought all over. Tho Deauty
! lay more in me thick ess aud luster of the
| Tx, | fancy, than III anything else, but |
| stood quite uverawed before it.
| saw brocade dinner gown, too, that
| Impressed me wonderfully. 1t was green
and a tine gold thread outlined the palm
leaf design in it. 1t was cut princess and
| had n lace front that was gathered closely
| together at the top of the decOliete bodice,
| but spread out wider and wider as It fell
over a rose-colored sa in froAt. Velvet
sleeve puffs, the shade of the gold in the
brocaie, were caught around above the
elbow by pearl EN- 0rodered passementerie,
and three strings Of pearls adorn the
| bodices front, caught up in the center by
| gold clasp The dress was most lovely.
| PaSsemen teries form a more important
| factor In gowns than ever before. Tney
| grow richer and more expensive daily. One
| may spend a small-sized fortune in passe-
menterie for one gown il one is inclined to
! be extravAgant. The favorite for fine
| gowns is pearl in many shapes and forms in
! many colors. Cream, pale blue, delicate
green and rose color are often all found in q
! few inches and lavender aud gold as we'll.
| From a solid pearl groundwork fall pearl
| ornaments tn pretty shapes, all so fine and
! lovely that one ia tempted to i1dulge in
| some Of this trimming, no matter what the
| cut may be. Passemen terie is one of the
things wa never receive at a bargain.
! There's no use waiting for the season to
| grow old, for the trimming will never
! grow cheap. So if you've made up YOUR
! mind to have it. get it now, before your
neighbor or your dearest friend buys the
very pattern you have set your heart upon.
EVA A. SCHUBERT.