The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1892-08-21

entitled to be exceptional, and it is. save
That 1t must have canals aud must be clean
scrubbed from doorstep to chimney pot
otherwise it is Frenchy in gay architecture.
mansard roofs, pretension TO Gaelic cook
ing, midnight reyelry and theatrical mas
querades But it is all veneer. Dutch
pipes as long as your leg, with minia-
lure painted porcelain bowls, may be
pought at every fifth door. and the price
haggled over in nflnching Dutch. And
Just three miles oft, down shady avenues
crossing the dunes, lies quaint Scheveningen,
the oldest fishing beach that the soul Of an
artist could covet. Here come to a ground on
the swell of the breakers those broad bowed.
broad-sterned, stumpy-masted. fiat-bottomei
craft, celebrated on canvas from Baekhuy-
sens days downward, although Backhuysen
could not paint them just as we'll as the
modern Mesdag. They are good sea boats.
put little more shapely than house cut
asunder. and they derive their artistic valua
from human associations of peril enter
prise, struggle and that indescrbable link
Ing OF the picturesque with the landing Of
fish on an open beach and cartlng it away
for distribution. These quaint-built barge
IKE boats are very gay on a Sunday with
htteen feet of bright bunting streamers
In the breeze. and nets or sails hoisted
masthead to dry. The crews burnish them
selves up in clothing that smells not OF fish,
and the women turn out in apparel about
as comprehensive as a haystack OF thick
wooden pettlc0ats and bright tissue of over
skirt, wearing headdress of silver or gold
emDelllshed plate, covered in part with a
net. They are also respleudent in earrings.
Inc tristan headgear has often come down
In the family for generations, aud proud the
Wearers are OF their gewgaws although
modelled physically and Ornameutally on
the plan of the boats which rock on the
beach below among the breakers
Schevenlngen is the Ostend of Holland
1t has fish and fsherf0lks at one end of the
peach, and at the other, beneath the Kur-
haus, where there is music and where sup
per aud gambling parties cOngregate,
fashionable thrOng is always on the beach
during good weather. enScOnsed in high
backed rounded chairs, which effectually
screen off the wind and block out your
neighbours observation. Rows of these
chairs are occupied by animated groups,
and yet, viewed from windward, it is a
graveyard on the beach, there being next
to nothing OF life visible. The occupants
gaze at the sad, hollow. roaring waves,
read novels. fall asleep. go to dinner. aud
do other eXacting things grievousy bur-
dened upon people of leisure with no SIMS
ter aim in the universe.
Amsterdam Is distinguished among Dutch
towns by having dirty quarter. The He
brew population, which is large, has not the
same detestatiOn of dirt, CRIME filth and bad
smells that characterize the natiye-born
Hollandsr. Otherwise Amsterdam is ex-
empiary In purity, and. as it is built on piles.
as learned man once remarked. the
stranger must view it with awe as a grand
human achievement.
Cleanliness, dear to the Dutch heart Is
made up for farther north. This is the re-
glon where they are said to put up the cows
tails at night In paper. But the sight is not
unfamiliar OF conscientious man washing
cows tail near ditch on Sunday morn
ing, duck, surrounded by her brood quack-
ing approval near 10y as a token of agree
ment. DECAY MACKART.