The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-02-13
TsE VENETIAN LACE SCHOOLS.
An Industry Revived by the Queen.
Museums of Rare Old Laces.
FROM he Mercer

. ~
/ Museums of Rare Cld Laces.
/ From the Mercer
VENICE, Dec S0.-The lace Of Venice.
/ like her glass and mosaics. is a traditional
monument to her ancient Industries. Venice
I Is the earliest home OF lace, and from her
/ hands it was introduced into other coun-
tries. The first lace was made by nuns
within the walls OF converts, for ecclesi-
/ astical garments. With the fall OF the
! Venetian republic the converts were closed
and this graceful industry was lost for an
entire ce fury.
In 1870 the Princess Marguerite, now
| Queen OF Italy, determined TO revive the
art <Ss provide employment for Venetian
wfhen struggling in the throes OF poverty
IL her is due the credit OF the origin and
/ endowment OF the existing schools These
/ schools are subsidized by the Italian govern
ment and are under the direct control OF a
! company Of which the Chevalier Jesurum
/ is at the head. There are now seven schools
| IN full and active operation in Venice and
her surrounding islands. The principal
building Iats up against the time-colored
| walls OF San Marco and from this pict-
urcsque spot, under the vc.y wing of the
| cathedral, issue some Of the most exquisite
patterns Of lace that the world produces.
Yesterday walked thr ugh the various
rooms OF this school aud saw the women
absorbed In their tedious work. They we're
OF all ages and sizes. from the soft-eyed girl
OF ~ TO the gray-haired woman OF 80.
Each sat on a low stool and held a plump
square cushion in her lap. On this cushion
was pinned piece of paper marked with
the pattern to be followed, and into this
pattern the nimble-flngered worker sticks
glass-headed pins ard twists her threads
about them. Fiom twenty TO fifty shuttles
depended from all sides OF the cushion and
fhaQn thrown a H,zh
rapidity of a Typewriter handling the keys
or her machine. The pins were con.
siantly withdrawn and replaced as the
threads advanced along the pattern The
process is so simple that it looks like play,
but the lace produced represents thousands
of hard gold dollars. The simple laces grow
rapidly under the dexterous fingers OF the
women, but the exquisite rose point aud its
kindred qualities evolve with a slow and
proud dignity. A number of women were
at work on new lace designed by the
Chevaller Jesurum. This was woven with
bright colored silks, and developed flowers
aud birds in all their natural shades
Pohchrom is the name given this delicate
fabric. The cost of some Of the handmade
thread used in the finer laces is enormous
lt sspun from an especial kind of fax, and
has been known to bring the extraordinary
price OF 81 800 pound.
In this building there are large exposition
rooms where lace is sold at fixed prices
varying from 40 cents to 5000 a yard
w hen say fixed prices. l mean to give the
impression that the dainty fabric is valued
upon stationary basis, according to the
time consumed in its manufacture. The
women are paid from IA to 20 cents a day,
and their work is valuep at fixed scale OF
profit. II the 14-cent woman consumes ten
days in making yard of lace, this yard Of
fabric 10 sold for 10 franos, which, of course,
includes nf nj
rent, etc.
There Is also q museum here devoted to
the preservation of old laces. Here the en-
broidered fabric of history and romance
enrolls itself before you-somber with tragic
stains at one place, gay at another with the
rosy smiles of life. The most remarkable
piece on exhibition Is a fiounce made espe-
cially for the Empress Marie Louise by
Napoleon. 1t is quite probable that the
equal OF this pattern will never be produced
The texture of this article is so fine that one
could imagine IL the work of fairy. It is
point d. Alencon with flowers, candeabra,
symbolic vases, and birds which lose them
sci yes in a mass Of delicate tracery.
This precious piece was the heritage of a
family of Parma, who sold it to the museum
for an enormous pr ice in gold. In this mu-
scum hangs the portrait Of Queen Victoria
in the costume worn at her jubilee. The lace
of this costume was all made In the Vene~
tian schools, and is the finest work that has
been done by them.
The second school in point of size il situ-
ated upon an island that sparkles like a
jewel imbedded in the sea. A path, marked
at intervals by posts, leads across the pict-
uresque lagoon to the island of Burano
Down this path you glide swiftly and softly.
A mere twist of the hand OF the silent gon-
dolier sends the light boat forward over the
golden water. You float up to a landing
and the oarsman fastens his craft to one of
the many blue-topped posts thas protrude
out of the water.
The Burano point lace is so famous that IL
does not require a minute description at my
banda 1t has been successfully revived.
and the old patterns are being religiously
followed. The girls employed in these
schools are of universal beauty. They are
gentle natures, and turn their large, soft
eyes upon you with an expression Of inno-
cence and confidence. In the old church on
the island an antique altar lace is preserved
that is said to be the finest piece of lace in
existence. twas designed for and hos never
left the church, and is held in inestimable
value.
In the prison on the island Giudecca lace
making is carried on by the women inmates,
and the men manufacture damask.
Under the direction of Signor Jesurum
the industry has grown to enormous pro-
portions-employing no less than 1000
women. 1t is not conducted solely for the
purpose of gain, but to keep the nimble fin
gers OF Venice in active operation. OF
course the schools turn out a large product,
the greater part Of which finds its way to
America. Paris dictates the fashions Of the
world, especially in women's wear, and con-
seQuently quotes the price on lace The
bulk Of the output of the Venetian schools
is sold from their headquarters in the Ave-
nue. de POpera.
MEDICAL.