The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1892-12-11


and foul murders in crypts and castle here.
Through these lofty pillars, bendingIarches,
hollow galleries and by these disman-
tied affairs one can stride from the
nineteenth 20 the fifth century. In the sad
dening echoes Of the sea calls he can hear
the meanings of the imprisoned Eleanor,
the curses OF Stanley, the triumphant cal
leluJah" OF GermAnus that put 60 rout the
SaXons IN the bloody Flintshirs fields
| Haunted, more than ell else to Mainland
mind, because 1t is the abiding place for all
time OF that most terrible OF Manx powers
OF darkness. the black and dreadful Moody
Dhoo."
From Peel TO Port Erin is a matchlessly
wild and romantic reach of coast There is
scarcely break in the lofty, precipitous
wall. And what a grand spot is this Port
Erin and environsl The Manx mountains
rise solemn and dark behind. The BAY is
an almost Iandlocked cove. Tremendous
Bradda Head, rising 500 feet sheer from the
sea, shuts out the bowling northern temp
ests. Another headland sweeps around aud
up from the south. Once the ancient port
was rich from commerce with Ireland Now
1t Is dark antique, sleeping within a bed
OF myrtle. The fashionable have found it
cut. and soon another gay and brilliant
Palermo will hide its ancient walls
Now you are sped around the Calf of
Man. Bolder, grander, more grewsome
still are its vast sea walls and fearful
chasms. Resistless tides gnaw at its base.
The angry spume is flung to its topmost
crags. 1t is desoiate OF human life. Mil
lions of sea fowl wheel and shrek above it,
But one other spot have l seen SO typical Of
furious desola:ion. Where the Arran
Island crags receive the ceaseless poundings
OF the Atlantic, and the thuuders Of the
everlasting battle are so great that even the
sea gulPs shrek is soundless, is another such
needless place.
Coasting along the eastern shore again,
first Spanish Head is passed and then Port
St. Mary. Between these is a typical Manx
hamlet called Cregneish. 1t is a little
cluster of centuries-old stone cottages.
Huge walls connect each. The old habits
and dress Of the ancient Manx are still pre-
served by Its two score inhabitants. Until
recently, the Manx language was solely
fearing, simple, good. AL the olden fairies
still live with item; and will remain until
the modern vices come.
Here at Port st. Mary during the fishing
season is the rendezvous of the Manx her
ring fleet. If you are here at the time. it
will remind you of the animated scenes in
August at Wick in Scotland, or Lerwick in
Shetland. The anchorage is crowded with
heavily laden fishing smacks, whose brown
sails shine like FURNISHED copper in the sun;
while others are constantly rounding the
point into the bay. Small boats are filled
with the shining silvery fish passing to and
fro between the smacks and the shore. Buy
ers' carts drive into the water up to their
axles the reader to receive the fish. Not
hundreds but thousands of men, women and
children, all in fine frenzy of cumulative
industry, sCurrving in all directions,
and clad In strange attire fill up tie
picturesque and busy scene. These folk are
nearly all Wesleyan Methodists. They are
as like the Cornish fsherfolk OF ST. Ives as
Nh.h 49, 80 !, L
ever put to sea on Saturday or Sunday; nor
do they at any time venture upon their sea
hervestings without goodly prayers and
psalms.
A little further to the north dark and
gray lies Castetown, now as of old, among
its darker limestone rocks with its ancient
castle still more somber towering grew
somely above. This is the once famous
Rushen castle, with scanty remains of
Rushen abbey near. and scene of the muir
der OF wicked King Reginald by Ivar the
good knight. The Danes founded the castle.
and 1t resembles Elsinor of Hamlet fame,
Its uses now as prison do not detract from
its almost ferocious grandeur. The abbey,
the last doomed suppression in Britain, is an
off-shoot of beautiful old Furness abbey,
just across the channel in Lancashire, where
the bones of many king of man were
willed to lie.
Back at Douglas again from such a con-
temptation as this from the dear little Isle
of Man." and l warrant you are a score of
years and an hundred books in advantage
over him who enters Mainland at the sea
gates of its splendid town, and views its
form and folk through the false perspective
OF fine hotels. crowds of summer or winter
idlers, and the misleading gay activities
comparing with those OF our own Bar Har-
Dor or Newport, or an English Bourne
mouth or Brighton.
- Co. IL
the strange old closes and wynds of the
ancient part of the city; but Douglas Is es-
sentially fashionable watering place the
whole year round. You must leave Doug
las behind to completely know Mainland.
This is no venturesome task. You can
walk to the remotest part of the island in
one day. There never were finer roads
There never we're lovelier views There
never were Quainter, more comforting old
inns. And there never we're more simple,
genial, hospitable people than in Man. In
most countries have visited the peasantry
are vacous and listless, or suspicious and re-
sentful Of him who comes TO spy into their
ways and poke among their shrines. The
Manx folk take IL as an honor. The Manx-
man is proud Of his ancestry, his history,
his independence, his changeless customs
and laws. Indeed, often think that much
of his goodness to the stranger comes from
pity that the stranger was not born in his
fair, hberty-loving island.
And after the real pleasure of knowing
any strange land is in getting close to the
heart of its common folk. That is EASY
here. You will be thrilled by Mainland |
scenes OF mountain and coast. It is q won
derful little land for foaming torrents.
flashing streams, enhancing valleys and !
shadowy glens. There is not another SO |
tiny bit of earth where you may come
upon SO many curious and impressive moa. |
uments of a heroic past Fisherfolk and |
Highlsnders, each with their distinct GEN. |
turtles old, chanReless ways, are closer TO- |
gether. The murmurs of the sea can al |
most be heard from highest mountain peak.
Contrast is everywhere mighty and close. |
But it is because Menx folk themselves afe |
more winsome and grand than all fine |
sights or scenes, that a loving, contented |
sense Of exultation gladdens every step of |
your progress through all these pleasant |
island ways. EDGAR L. WAKEMAN.