Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-23
TRAMP IN PORTUGAL.
le Fourth of Edgar L. Wakeman's
New Series of Travel Sketches.
THE HOMES OF THE PEASANTRY..
undIess Hospitality, Lightsome Labor
and Joyous Content
FEET THE TOURIST AT EVERY TURN

IAVIRA, PORTUGAL, Jan. 1z.-My Ualle-
n guide, servant, companion and friend,
nest Dobrado, became so enamored of our
itering sort of wanderings, that on leaving
ia I had no difficulty in overcoming his
ruples against travelling on foot. And so
way to the southern sea coast of Portu-
!, perhaps $50 miles by the windings Of
quaint old thoroughfares of the coun-
Y, was made from Bija in this delightful
amer.
In no strange land nave 1 walked that
stance with such a continuous sense of
tt.on of interest. There are early Oc-
h-r davs in our own land which all these
Us and nights recalled-days when the
rdure is still rich upon the trees; when
aftermath has pushed above the stubble
The fields and spread an emerald carpet
owe the aiter-harvest sere; when skies are
0udlesS and of wondrous depth OF blue;
d when an aroma that hints of fruit or OF
ne is in the bracing air; evenings when
whole sky is ablaze from the setting of
md red suns that seem TO wait huge and
orlous before plunging beneath the purple
llows OF the West; and nights when the
Gaming of lights from farms and hamlets
..NE-NllS tlt lbDAelGp VI bGldlOu
i Unc0nsciouslv makes more eager all
me gatherings where firesides are already
King on bit of the winter glow.
The Only Winter in Portugal.
This is the only winter Central and South
i Portugal know. There is a tender ella
IN IN IL. Iou unconsciouslv breathe great
aughts of the exhilarating air. Your
ad is erect and YOU walk in fine strong
.ides. Then there are countless sights
L scenes which charm and enthrail; of
rId-capped sierra, OF heath-covered moor,
boundless forest, Of valley landscape, of
DuntaIn-Side hamlets struag together as on
-audy thread by strange professions: of
.-e windmills as in Holland, of gigantic
teT-wheels creaking and swinging and
en- clrcling about them in endless tread;
waled-in farnhouses built rs if to with
AID siege, and of every form of peasant
2o- and pastime, always Of deepest inter
because telling the story of every
Y life and living of the humble folk of
y land, upon whose labor and lives, after
. the entire social and governmental
perstructure of any nation is laid.
4 SUMMER land il which to travel does not
-. Hospitality is universal and intense
g 20 extraordinary a characteristic among
classes that it often becomes an impede
"a: 20 progress in travel Between Evcra
/ Tavira. about $50 miles by road, we
re literally compelled to enter more than
homes. IN a dozen Of these we were
'artered for the night. and in all the others
reshments were offered and partaken Of
st interesting Of all were the visits to
nous old monasteries.
Greeted Even From Distance.
Il often seemed that we must have been
}isd al a distance of miles: Tor in many
stances some ambling old servitor was
II 20 meet Us, CT again a kindly-faced
- halted Us g. the roadside, and, pre-
ely as if the visit were prearranged,
1duc:ed Us TO his monastery, often little
d uinched habiIation where less than q
re oi the order seemed TO be gaining
eiihood. The welcome and benediction
parting were alwavs of character to
1veT the idea that our coming had placed
host under inexpressible obligations;
lie the eagerness of these mountainside
ks % gather the meagerest knowledge
the outer worlds affairs and activities
often touching and pathetic in the
RENE
friar, farmer and peasant were alike in
nctihous observance Of one pleasant Gus
O. At our departure they always accom-
led us some distance, and frequently for
les, or cur way. Then, standing bv the
vsde until we were quite out of hearing
1 sight, they sent after us all manner of
7ndlv benediction interspersed with
,oa viaCem,-boa viagemr' (Good voyage!
God vCyage) until they must have re-
ned to monastery, villeggiatura or cabin,
Use from their kindly called farewells.
Hospitality a Part of Religion.
)obrado tells me this boundless hospital
is q changeless part of the Portuguese
iCi0n; that they have as common saw
3. Curses follow illv-relcomed tray-
-s; and tha5 the belief is general here
& good fortune comes in degree to the
Iatitul entertainment of strangers who
y chance among them. I have found the
ae custom and belief prevailing in only
other place in Europe. That is the
IS. of Ireland among the poor but great
rtgd folk Of lone and rugged Come
.Et Of deeper interest than all else are
i0wlr folk Of this fair land. 1 have not
2 IN town or city an instance Of what we
oT as want and suffering. The lowlv in
-.U-al possess nothing; acquire nothing;
e UurHlng ambitions ior nothing. A bit
'orE-meal or rye bread washed down with
,rr IS a repast. Add 10 the bread bit of
Z handful of olives or a few swallows of
re-, and i Is feast.
.fe singing scourge of necessity for
violence with which the rigors of winter
d our poor is incomprehensible here.
their ba ks are mountains and valleys
en- to the sun and sky the whole wear
0ECh, and never failing in their rich |
Id Of fruit and grains. At their feet are
ad rivers or the almost encircling sea |
a luscious food free for the taking None |
become rich. None ever arrive at our |
idea OF modest competency. None |
reely know how TO think how riches can |
desirable
No Idea What Hurryin- Is.
he wonder with them is that anv one |
aid worry or strive: that any human |
ng should ever be in a hurry. As with |
Cubans in their langUor-breeding cline |
nse ''Manana!' (To-morrowD is the kew |
heir torpor and vassalage, "Pacienciar' |
Patience" tells the story here. Some
y is wrong with that one who will |
ten; and crime surely turks beneath |
anesS and yigor
he mountains and valleys of Portugal
= home TO a folk possessing all the win ,
=. sunniness of the lowlv of towns with
tithe of their apathy ard sluggardress.
1 may read all the pastoral poems ever |
1ten asd gaia 30 more color.ul picture OF
-oral lives in endless content and peace
Tess Jhan yonr eyes may behold in an /
: ride o. walk anywhere in the interior
Port Hcal. Rest IS IN the sun and skv, the
a and air, the home AID field, in ali man
Ia all nature.
do ret mean that no labor IS nerformed
E al lalcr do.e has IL it tAe seeming of
p aaii.ance with toll. The senses are
sl.rfeited with edor, iaxuriaace and the
ost Intoxicating profigacy OF nature as
Ee tropics Every active c1ertion of
- .gn.an does not betray, as there. a
erla;iye indGlence painfully efortfal in