The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1892-11-23

There are coats that come TO the TeeG,
and wraps ditto, but the box coat of
sealskin and the half long mantle are
oftener seen. One odd and not alto
gether pretty fashion is to have the col
lar arranged in such way as to re-
semble wide ostrich tips and the edges
scalloped. 1t is really becoming, how
ever.
One of the prettiest wraps Of this sea-
son is of black astrakhan laid in plaits.
and with a high scalloped collar. Little
pockets are placed in each side of the lin
ing for holding the purse, etc. The only
against the hair is very injurious to the
hair.
Another handsome cape is made of
sealskin, with boa Of mink or Russian
sable, if one can afford it. There are
fewer of the little pneumonia breeding
capes that reach only to the waist line
and the lady who cannot obtain one or
the other of the new fur coats or capee
will pass very unhappy winter, SO she
will
Some of the walking dresses of this
season are very pretty, and evidently
have been designed by some one who
possesses a fair share Of common sense,
which tones down the ridiculous tenden-
cies toward empire styles. Idon't mind
real empire gown on the proper per-
son, which is a pretty young woman,
neither fat nor thin, but with a trim fig
ure, and with much natural grace of
movement, but the worst of it is that ev-
cry one thinks herself exactly the kind
that would be charming in an empire
gown-a sort Of superior Josephine or
idealized Recamier. h
l could not express strongly enough
the sort Of picture they make. They
move brusqnely, and every angular point
or movement is accentuated. Let us
hope that the empire will not become
arbitrary, but will allow us little lati-
tude of choice-at least enough for the
pretty walking dress below, which is a
type Of modern taste.
The dress is of gray cheviot, with
three narrow green jet studded braids.
The sleeves and waist are of cheviot,
with combination of green and gray
brocade silk, with belt, windmill bow
and lapels Of green velvet bound with
silver braid. The toque is of cheviot,
with silver buckle and green coque
plumes. When the weather is very cold,
vest of channels is worn under the
waist and keeps the wearer as warm as
toast, but people who see the wearer
now without wrap would be apt to
think that the young lady must be very
cold or have remarkable constitution.
Hats keep growing larger and more
soul destroying m
than ever, but fSTM
bonnets are very EES3
dainty and small, t1H
in many cases NJ
:: =; !: !: !: !; !: ::
of the hats seem HIsA Vhs6M VA
to have all run to Rsa SYSNygD VA
the front in the Ed $50 NA
melted state, EJ AkN IA
though there are bul( IN
a very few in the NV Y
! !. !. /.
Rubens and Rem "
brandt style, and IN III II
some regular MI NJ ASI
Puritan with Hb IN M[k
high pointed I'm wv
crowns. Besides IN vi
these the soft felt IN III III
alpine is a fa- ia \ M MI
vorite for run D~k w NJ
about hat. Satin ->cs--~1sH
Is q new material f
now in use for
hats. Many are WALKING DRESS
neatly shirred, and others are laid
smooth.
Among the latest importations of
silks I notice ondine, which is thick
cord bengaline, every three cords being
and that gives the whole sur
face a very rich effect. 1t is in plain
but exceedingly rich colors, and made
up entirely by itself it produces dress
except by velvet.
A velvet dress never goes out of style,
but all fancy weaves of silk have their
lay and then disappear to be revived
generation or two later, like the plaid |
silks now are. Satin, black and heavy, |
1,o4I, xx,r,-,, f<,,, 1,,o.o