The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1892-01-06
FASHIONS FOR TIE FAIR
Artistic Tea -U1sters
Which Hide aAlIso old
and Beauty of
Figure.
THE POPULAR FLEUR-DE-LIS
Girdles All the Rage--Good Form
in misunderstanding
Odds and Ends.
THE POPULAR FLEUR-DE-LIS

Teas, tea gowns and tea jackets. Thes
three form important features IN the life
of a fashionable and society woman now
adays. She must give teas or else assist
at them, aud she must be dttingly
gowned. l think most women enjoy
wearing tea gowns. They have trains,
and if the woman is tall these add to her
stateliness. aud If she is short she imag-
ines they make her look stately. She is
made happy thereby, so why nndeceive
her?
There is endless diversity in the shape
and trimming Of tea gowns. They seem
| to get more elaborate and beautiful every
season. There are ethereal tea gowns,
nothing but ganZe and lace; &c sthetic tea
gowns, made of crape-woollen stutfs, with
flowing draperieS; handsome tea gowns
composed ouly of rich brocadeS and vel
vets, ana tea gowns of nun's-cloth and
soft silk that are merely pretty. The Sc
we're tea own is generally made or self
colored silk trimmed with p~assementerie.
Cashmere is just as popular u material as
ever.
An eccentric gown was made of pale
yellow cashmere yelled in front with
white lace and o~rnatnented with floating
ENDS of brown velvet falling in stripes
from the neck to the hem OF the skirt.
The ribbons were held in place at the
waist by u girdle. A gorgeous French
| model was OF velvet in one of the new
intermediate shades of brown, with n
broad panel of palest blue and gold bro
| cade on each side. 1t had an immense
collar and a long train set in pleats just
below the waist. The front was cut III u
new style with long narrow ends like a
mantle, n friuged with irridescent
Innlo Tho nnnSr haQlfjfnl fynwnG are
generally made of diaphanouS fabrics.
One i'll D each-colored c~rape-enough to
| make any woman enthuse"-had the
front composed of a careless mass OF vel
low gauze and lace. The back was
| adorned with a cascade of the same ma
t~erials, and the sleeves were draped with
lace at the top and finished at the wrist
with gauze ruffies. Most of the new
models nave long sleeves, falling low
over tue hands.
Tea-jackets couldn't possibly be daiu.
tier. Some are of silk and lace, some are
all lace. They I'll have the fashionable
long basque. Petticoats run gowns very
close in point of richness. The newest
are made ali lowered silk, trimmed round
the hem with p~inked-out ruches.
THE FLEUR DE LIS.
The fieur de lis reigns supreme.
Seldom has the decorative idea been SO
dominated and possessed by any n
design as it is just now by the emblem OF
the golden lilies the 1eur de lys of
France, which isn't q lily at all by the
way, and whose story is as interesting as
anything in a story book. The neur de
lys Is the iris or blue flag so well known
in this country and even better in France.
IL was Louis VII. who adopted IT as a part
of his own coal-of-arms and gave 1t the
name of ieur de lys, or Louis
causing the national standard to be
thickly strewn with 1T. Two ndre
years alter Charles vi. reduced
the number to three, the mvsti-
cal church number. and it hen took the
present conv%entionalized form in which it
appears today. 1t doesn't look much like
the iris flower now certainly. And It's
lack of definite resemblance has troubled
people before now. There was a time
when the idea that it was intended for
the blue flag was wholly r~epudiated.
Givillim, VINO wrote about heraldry and
who even knew more things than he put
into his books, declared that the device
was never that of a flower at all. but that
it is Il conventionalized toad erect, leap
ing. which is the reason why Nostra-
damus in the sixteenth century called
Frenchmen ''toads." After that some
wise men started the theory that 1t was
neither an IRIS nor a jumping toad, but a
bee flying. These were Frenchmen who
objected to being called toads,
But whatever it may be, flower, toad
or bee. it is today the favorite design in
decoration everywhere. The young man
and the young woman buy it in silver and
gold for scarf pins. brooches and sleeve
buttons. 1t is worked into the newest
wall haugings and four-in-hand ties and
the thinnesJ lace bears Its figure. Hat
ornaments and foot stools are in the shape
OF the tteur dc lis; prayer books are
studded with silver heads in The same
design. II is in drinking glasses and
umbrella handles and the covers OF BOOKS
and watches. The tin dc steele touch
was seen the other day in a florists win
dow ON Broadway, where stood a piece of
porcelain made in a likeness of a huge
feur de list was at least three feet
highland only the centre shaft was open
to be used as a vase. 1t was clumsy, IN
artistic and Inappropriate. The 1eur &c
lis is charming in jewelry and most
fabrics, but as foot stools and vases 1t
makes one want to laugh.
THE NEW ULSTEIS.
Women are queer critters" For sew
eral winters past they have been wearing
capes as short as TO positively guarantee
the worst forms of pneumonia. They
even helped the sickness along by turn
ing down the fur collars on these .capes
| ami inserting some bright colored. dainty
| silk handkerchief over the chest. They
got tired of catching colds or else the
| capes are worn on.
Now capes cannot be long and aideous
enough. They are attached to long III
sters, which of themselves would be very
| handsome and useful, but the canes are
so long that they hide every vestige OF a
figure; a beautiful figure as we'll as a
| poor one. The outline is entirely de-
stroyed, and nothing more inartistic was
! aver Imagined or favored except the pres
| ept style of loose wrap which ought 10
bear it's share of disapprovai.
There is one time, however, when the
long capped ulster seems to come in very
| usefully, and that is when one IS going to
wear light party dresses. Many cannot
afford either carriage robes or u carriage
they go SO attired, ana then
these ulsters prove very useful. But as Il
steady diet. l think l should perfer to go
| cold and hungry.