The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1892-04-07
THE DECAY OF PLAIN SEWING.
Following in the Wake OF Embroidery
Which Went Out of Fashion Ages Ago.

Following in the Wake OF Embroidery,
Which Went Out of Fashion Ages Ago.
Embroidery, like other elegant arts, suf-
fered decay during the Dark Ages, and,
like literature, took refuge i'll the cloisters.
Books containing patterns for needlework
and directions for their use were intro
duced in England toward the close of the
Sixteenth century. Each book had poems
prefixed, exhorting ladies to industry and
to ''exaIted needlework sublime"
The life Of seclusion and partly of cap
tivity that Queen Elizabeth was compelled
TO lead during her girlhood was beguiled
by this feminine art, and although she
laid aside the needle when she took up the
scepter, the great quantity OF her embroid-
cry made this art fashionable among the
English nobility, and much tabor was be-
slowed upon house decoration also; stools
and chairs were ornanented With the nee
die. stately beds were adornrh with cur
tains and counterpaneS enriched with en-
broidery. Every article of dress was load
ed with costly needlework. When the
queen died she had 800 embroidered suits
In her warlrObe-to such excess was the
passion for dress carried in the Sixteenth
century. Indeed, the queen herself at
tributed the decay of ancient hospitality
to the vast sums of money lavished on fe-
male apparel.
In France and other Continental conn
tries they were equally eXtravagant in this
style of ornament. A lady as the court of
Henry " of France displayed handker-
chief thai cost 900 crowns. Truly, with
such specimens OF taste and skill, orna-
mental needlework was entieled to place
among the fine arts. The French retain
their ancient reputation for beautiful en-
brodery, their needlework OH linen being
preferred to that Of all other countries.
1t would take a volume to contain the
names of the distinguished women who
were fond of the agreeable occupation of
sewing, in its useful as well as graceful
and elegant forms Adelicia, second wife
of Henry | of England, Joan d'Albret
mother of the great Henry OF France, and
Anne of Brittany, whose court was a school
for the children of the nobility, are well
known instances. The beautiful and IN
fortunate Marie Antoinette, in her adver-
sity assisted IL making and mending the
clothes of theimprisoned royal family; and
Mary Queen of Scots, with her needle,
soiaced many weary hour OF her long
captivity.
In this century the learned Mrs. Somer-
vile could work an intricate pattern in
embroidery IS well as a mathematical
problem, and use the needle with as much
deXterty as the telescope. There is in my
possession one-half of a handbag worked
in chain stitch by the fair hands OF Caro-
line Bonaparte, queen OF Naples. The
evenness and regularity Of che stitches are
a wonder to all who see it.
It is much to be regretted that the in
vention of the sewing machine has caused
what is known as "plain sewing" to have
become almost a lost art. Few girls are
being taught to sew with their hands, be-
cause the machine can do all the sewing
No machine stitching can equal in dura-
bility or beauty the work done by the hui
man hand.
Artists note the difference between hand
carving and that done by machinery. The
famous cashmere shawls, made on hand
looms in India, cannot be equaled in
Europe. Do not understand me as depre-
ciating sewing machines; they are grand
invention, but / beg that hand sewing be
not neglected The mother who does not
teach her daughter TO sew we'll enough to
darn stockings neatly and mend under
clothing well has signally failed in her
duty.
The utilitarianism of the Nineteenth
century had banished ornamental needle
work from woman's accomplishments I'm
til the Kensington School of Art Needle
work, in London, some years back, again
made embroidery fashionable; our ladies
can now display as beautiful work as ever
came from the queenly hands of Katherine
Howard or Anne Boleyn, and needlework
may again be classed among the elegant
arts-Woman's Work.