The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1892-03-26
FROM NORWAY.
Notes of Travel by a Hawaiian.

II.
Perhaps the most valuable portion
of the Norwegian Kingdom is the
Lofoten Islands. They lie between
latitude GO and 20. that is, three de-
grees farther north than the north
coast of Iceland, and in the same
latitude as Bafinland, or the utterly
uninhabitable portions of Siberia.
Yet here in the depth of winter are
carried on the great fisheries of Nor
way. During the charming summer
days when it is never dark, the air
soft and balmy and the waters gen
orally smooth, these islands are prac-
ticalIy deserted, and the little fishing
villages are empty and desolate, and
only about the middle of February
do the fishermen from all parts of
Norway begin to gather in, in their
little open boats, in thousands, to
take part in the catch of Goldfish
which come here to spawn. During
the three wintry months that follow,
which are often stormy and danger
GUS enough, do these brave and
hardy people carry on their arduous
business in the teeth of all difficult
ties. They use generally self con-
structed boats very much like our
"whaIeboats," very light, bat strong
and durable. In these with oar and
sail they make long voyages along
the coast and in the open sea and
prosecute without fear their adven-
turous trade wherever it calls them.
On an average about 10000 men
with 5000 or 5000 boats are employed
in this fishery and the yearly catch is
worth over $2,000,00O. The fishing
is mostly done with nets which are
strung together sometimes to the ex-
tent of half a mile in length. These
nets are put down in the evening and
taken in the next morning; some
times the catch is exceedingly large,
but commonly 400 or 500 is consid-
cred very fair return.
Notwithstanding the extreme
northerly position of the Lofotens it
is not exceedingly cold in winter,
owing to the gulf stream which
bathes their coasts with a warm
damp air and brings fog and rain
rather than frost and snow. How
ever, in the dead of winter, in an
open sea it is bad enough, and
the life of fisherman is beset
with difficulty and danger, and
many are the consequent disas-
ters especially during the strong
westerly gales that frequently occur,
when the boats are driven to the open
sea before raging tempest of sleet
and hail. Many of them are upset
or swarnped and their crews drowned.
AS last resort in his tenacious hold
on life, the struggling fisherman
drives his sheath knife into the bot
tom of his capsized boat, and thus
clings to life and his drifting boat as
long as his benumbed hands can hold
ON, and it is said to be no uncommon
thing after one of these gales to find
one of these dismantled boats
stranded, with the knives of her i'll
fated crew still sticking in the hull,
or broken off short.
The Lafotens are high, bold, rocky
islands with scarce any fat or cult
vable land, but rich in varied and
striking scenery and wonderful color
effects in land and sea and sky, SO
that they are getting to be known
as "the artists paradise"
Off the southern end of this
group of islands lies the famous
Mahlstrom, which, however, is much
more famous abroad than at home,
since it is nothing more than tide
eddy, and not in the least danger
ous-in these days at least-to ships
or even small boats. In several
places, In passing through narrow
channels, we met such tide eddies
where the surface of the water was
awhirl like the current of great
river, and which, / was assured
was quite as bad as the renowned
Mahistrom. l suppose it is possible
that In bygone ages it may have
been much more dangerous, else i
is not easy to account for it
notoriety.
Finally leaving the Lofotens, W,
crossed back to the mainland agar
and came shortly to Tromso, til,
most considerable town and loca
capital of this far north country
really a beautiful little place-al
old fashioned town lying along tn
waters edge and backed by garden
and villa crowned hills, almost tropi
cal in the perpetual-during sum
mer-sunshine. The "Paris of tn
North" it claims to be-
Having several hours here, tn
captain arranged little tour for u
to one of the neighboring valleys
where we might see Lapp encamE
ment and herd of reindeer w
found small camp, probably on
family with herd of about tw
hundred reindeer. These animal
are interesting, and no doubt yer.
useful, but by no means beautiful
and in summer look as ''seedy" ant
superseded as a last seasons bird
nest, while the Lapps are as ugl.
and dirty as the reindeer. They are
however, recommended as a lively
generous and light-hearted people
taking a much more cheerful view o
life than their more civilized Norwe
gian brethren. They catch the rein
1aoY. lox, v,ooonS IF a lio,bE loe.r x,,I,s n