Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-01-16

ness and protection from whistling winds,
and as true tribute to zephyrous airs and a
genial sky and sun.
But opposite my chamber, along the
shadowy end of the court was the surest
sign of equable cline and summery days.
That was my breakfast cooking in the open
air-not upon stove, nor in fireplace,
nor yet by any of the ruder devices our
American grandmothers knew. Heavy fat
stones furnished asort of raised rocky dais as
high as the knees OF the ancient senhora who
was hustllng about the court. On this dais
furze fagots were burning in two fires no
bigger than your fists. Above one of these
on triangular piece of iron something was
grllllng. Above the other in copper pot
held there from long distance by wooden
pike beneath Its bale or handle, something
was stewing.
For an hour came song and smoke and
strange dissolving views of cookery, women
and fire, when / was most tremendously
conducted to my almoco or breakfast. The
table was bare of covering, but amends
were made in dishes and their contents. A
tremendous frasca para vinho or wine fagon
or glass with pewter goblet at its sid9 con-
tanned fully two gallons of the cheap wine
OF Alemtejo. A brown earthen plate be-
fore me held slice of grilled Portuguese
"A
potato or yam, big as cuspidor, stood
steaming alongside. A basin containing
some mysterious stew fanked the yam; and
piled before me in an actual recklessness of
munifcence was a mountain of cornmeal
bread, yellow as saffron and hard as rock.
For all this service, including my nights
lodging and the care of Dobrado and the
other donkeys, with'the countless blessings
OF God and ''Good Voyages % showered
upon us at departure, I was only called
upon to pay sum equal to about 40 cents
in American money
The Country Gentleman's Home.
At villeggiatura or gentleman farmers
home-as all farmers in Portugal above the
grade of peasants are called morgados or
gentlemen farmers-where we sought shell
ter from a shower and after the custom of
the Portuguese we're not permitted to de-
part for day, had opportunity of briefly
studying the Portuguese country gentle
mans home. Near all large cities the NOR
gado only comes to his country home in
summer. But at this distance from Lisbon
many live at their villas the year round,
visiting Lisbon in the gay winter season.
The villas of the better class are all on
one general pattern. A high-walled court
yard in front. filled with ancient orange
trees, half hides low, large house of heavy
architecture, whose walls extend far to the
rear and form another courtyard of vast
proportions, filed with home and farm
belongings. This is generally the
lounging and play spot for numerous
servants and children. The interiors are
quaint in huge rooms, strangely con-
structed staircases, odd galleries and in
variably tiny chapel where mass is said
for the family and dependents on Saints
day. These homes will possess many OBJ
jects of refinement, but seldom any books
Occasionally beautiful statuary is seen.
Odd ornaments in metal and gargoyle water
spouts and fountain pieces are common.
Curious old paintings and extraordinary
specimens of china are in every home; and
the guitar, though seldom any other musical
instrument, will be found in nearly every
room in the house. In every villeggiatura
in Portugal the stranger and the friend are
alike welcome.
Its exterior and surroundings are quaint,
dreamful and charming. In this portion of
Portugal verdure is never absent, the roses
never cease blooming and the songs of the
birds are never DONE
EDGAR L. WAKEMAN.
CLUBS for women discussed by Bessie