The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-02-27


sight.seers who arc already familiar
with the southern cities OF Europe. II
ono has friends, or can secure them, 1t
is true that there are no NOR beautiful
and oxquisiteexanples OF tho Moresque-
Spanish interiors than can be found in
palma's homes. Indeed, l have never
scon in art, as representative OF the
patio or court OF tho Italian, Spanish or
Mosom home, anything equalinS tho
beauty OF these open courts. Tho stone
work, while never on go grand scale,
rivals In dclcacy oil texture aud rich
ness Of ornamentation anything to be
found within the walls OF tho Alham-
bra. tf.
The scenery OF tho bay, though not 80
noble rs that OF Naples, is far moro Win
some and enchanting. Then there is
the ancient fortress, the Castle OF Belly
err, rising from one OF the heights OF the
circling shore. 1t is GOO years old, aud
its dungeons, patio and Gothic archod
gallerios are among the most interest
ing specimens OF medieval architecture
in Europe. Palma's cathedral, ono of
the most majestic in tho Latin coun.
tries, was built moro than seven hum
'drcd years ago. While the Lonja, built
rs an Exchange, in ratification OF con-
vention between tho Balcarie islands
and the republic OF Pisa. withits mas
sive roof supported by but four slender
huted shafts, its floor OF polished black
marble, and its wonderful fully carved
.open-work galleries, is as uuique.and
impressive q structure rs the traveller
can discover among the storied haunts
OF tho two peninsulas.
In pretty and comfortable diligcnces,
upon the backs OF mules and donkcys,
or better still upon your own stout
legs, the remotest portiong- OF tho
islands arc reached, over roads that
will rival Englands, in scarcely more
than single days journey. Ii you
arc simply sghtsecr there is much to
do and see within tile little sea-girt
spot The vineyards OF Binisalem and
Felantix are as interesting as those
about Oporto in Spain. The orange
groves OF that most transcendent OF all
Majorcan valloys, the Solier, are Won
drously beautiful, aud their odors are
sometimes waited over tho entire
island. The gardens of FL Real at La
Grange rival those Of the Cirque .Cento
at Seville. Along the north coast is
found some OF the grandest scenery OF
the Mediterranean; and rs stood by
the deserted atalyas or watch towers OF
old, from which there flashed the sig
nails OF the approach OF Bcrbor pirates
or Christian crusades, the majestic
round towers Of tho Irish coast seemed
to reappear in all their mysticism and
utter lollincss.
The alquerias., or country mansions
near Albano, and at Bunola and Esporlas.
with their splendid avenues, gardens
and rich vcstiges OF Moorish architec-
tural remains, are far more interesting
than similar establishments I have at
any time come upon in Spain. The
wonderful roadway III Italy, and half
the distance winds along and upon
masses OF mountainaido masonry OF
tremendous thickness and height. Over
near the eastern shore is NIcnacor, the
second largest city OF the island. A lit
tie distance to sthe northeast is. Arta,
and here entered by o natural sarchway
lao feet high are doubtless the most
wonderful grottoes OF the world and at
Alcudia is one OF tho most famous
fisheries OF the Mediterranean.
vALDENus4.
But. ii none OF these are seen, a visit
to Nalpemusa;: and its once famous
monastery, is worth a special tripSto the
island With rs magnificent surround
inss as those OF Vallombrosa in Italy.
mountain chasm is bridged by tho
ancient pile in so extraordinary and
picturesque way rs to seem at dis
lance like 4 gray old coud-kissed nest
that has for ages dehod decay and the
battling OF the ;erial tempcsts there.
But the gray OF real decay is upon all
things at. Naldcmusa; in the gray old
church and endless cells and cloisters;
in the gray old houses that nestle along
the mountain side beneath it,! and in
the gray old folk that haunt the spot
like wraiths OF those who once
wcro there. An indescribablo sadness
fingers about this splendid Majorcan
relic ofmonlsish times and days. The
rich OF Palma ceme here insummer and
live u gay mocl1convcntual life. George
Sand half 4 century ago passed the most
dolorous winter OF her life within these
walls. With her was Chopin. Per-
haps in these very cloisters was born
tho wild and inexpressible melancholy
OF the melodic creations OF the masters
later life. To me Valdcmusa will re-
main moro q memory OF these two
strange sad souls than merely crumb-
ling, deserted and majestic monastic
relic upon the island mountains.
But best OF all in Majorca you will
love tho peasant folk OF the island and
the sunny setting in which you will
everywhere find them. The three
classes in Mnjorcan provincial, life are
the titled landholders, tho farmers who
rent their land from the nobility, and
the common peasant laborers who toll
in the fields, forests and vineyards.
The houses Of Tho nobility are very fine
and beautiful, and large number OF
servants arc retained. Many OF the
middle class farmers each control from
800 to 1000 acres OF land. Such as these
possess farmstcadngs spread overacres
OF ground, all surrounded by vinc-cover-
cd walls, and all possessing first tho
quaint court into which all tho living
rooms OF the family enter, and behind
this, the greater court, from which all
outbuidings and granaries arc reached.
Many oftheae structures which former
ly housed the country aristocracY, con-
tain private chapels, or rather chapels
into which q ,latticed gallery extends
from the upper gallery OF the court.
/. Tho structural scmblance to the an
cicnt Moorish form of habitation is pre-
served even among tho cabins OF tho
ponsantry. However humble tho house
hold, all its members and belongings,
even to the donkcys, goats and fowls are
found within or radialins from this sun