Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1892-08-10


had been specializing again. Mr.. Hare
Why, he assured me yesterday that he
didn't own a share of stock, Mr.. Hyde
That's Just the trouble. I've learned he's
short a thousand P, d. and O., and the
markets up ten points.-Brooklyn Life.
PHILOSOPHY OF THE SCARF PIN.
An Apparently Small Matter Treated
In n Broad and Erudite Way.
[From the Clothier and Furnisher.l
The underlying principle in the matter
of what jewelry men may wear 10 the utili-
tartan one. -.. -
In the exhibitive sense the scarf pin 10
undoubtedly the most important article of
jewelry worn by the well-dressed man.
The justification for its wearing, when it
is worn properly, is beyond question.
The purely sdventitious exploiting of
the scarf pin as piece of jewelry is hap
PLY numbered among the has beens."
The memory of those days of the low
cut waistcoat-the shirt-covering scarfs
seeming for all the world like huge chest
protectors, iuto which big coral pins were
thrust-represented the vulgsrian epoch in
mems wear at its zenith.
Then the diamond breastpins with safe
ty sttschment-someo of them chained TO
the shirt front by gold chain-came to
be the cherished bsuble of the crude fash
ions of the times. The idea of diamond
with a string to it-a jewel with a safe
guard, telling at one of its value, and
warning off depredstors-prssents = com
ical contrast to the conservative character
of the current regime.
The assertativeness of neckwesr as q
dominant factor in the masculine ensem-
BILE has had much to do with the enhanced
Importance of the scarf pin. Indeed,
from its position in the fabric, and because
of its glitter, which hrst catches the eye,
it is perhaps the most conspicuous sppur-
tenance of mems wear. There has come
to be, therefore, of necessity, q fixed eti-
quette of the scarf pin that may not be
defied without offending good taste.
In the "all-over" big scarfs, the Burling
ton "once over" and the rest, there is, as
with all the De Joinville school, including
the Ascot, an absolute necessity for the
scarf pin.
There are in these instances certain por-
tions of the scarfing to be held together in
a certain place and in q certain way. The
absence of the scarf pin under these cir
cumstances would indicate that such an
article was not in the repertory of the
wearer of the neck-dressing. 1t were
therefore bad judgment to attempt to wear
fine neck scarf incompletely, and pub
lishment of impecuniosity at the same
time.
The scarf pin should always be worn
with the fat, made-up scarf. There is
place for lite insertion, and by seeming to
hold II together, 1t sttsins utilitarian
phase, in that 1t is an aid in CLOSING over
the percentage of msde-np sugsestiveness
that is always more or less associated with
the initiative article
The made up fat or puff scarf, If worn
| without a scarf pin, .discloses its arti6ciAli-
| ty in all the badness of its mechanical in
| feriority. 1t IL curious paradox in the
| fashions, therefore, that the scarfing that
| does not actually need the scarf pin In re-
| ality requires it most of all
In the self-tied De Joinville, or its made
up reproduction, the scarf pin must pierce
the GROSS folds at the intersection.
A glazing error is sometimes made In in
| Producing the pin in.o the small trisngu-
| lar section above where the cross occurs
This converts the scarf pin into a purely
| adventitiou. piece of decoration, and takes
| away from the bit of jewelry that phase
| of utility which gives to a gentleman the
primal right to wear il.
| placed SO that when seen through the
waistcoat opening it will appear in the
| center of that space. To be placed too high
| in the scarf, too low or on one side, would
| destroy the conformity.
The insertion of the minute scarf pins
i up in one corner of the scarfing q few
| years ago was prettifed notion. which
was tinctured with an effeminste flavor.
1t was clearly in the nature of q desire
| to look fetchiDg"-snother phrase that
belongs alone to the vocabulary of the fair
i sex.
| No matter how irregular the fold NAV
be made in the De Joinville type of knot
| ting, the head of the scarf pin must IRE.
/ vocably fall in the center of the fabric.
| Otherwise ii is out of balance seen within
| the lapel frsmery of the coat, and the en-.
tire scheme of costume thus becomes one
| sided.
The idea, moreover, betrays q striving
for a desire to be different from the regu.
lstion vogue, and the difference does moi
have the merit of aiding the ensemble, but
is fsr-fetched attempt at best.
The advent of the liver pad shaped
made up scarf of a rev years ago-a pal
pably mechanical device, folding far ovel
on one side, the upper apron being held in
place by an ordinary safety pin-created .
short lived sensation.
With the regulation Teck, pslpably
made up scarf that is not an imitation o.
any known that may be made by the wear
er, the scarf pin is stringently tabooed.
1t enjoys, in such a pseudo utilization, al
| most as much significance as it would Il
stuck in the middle of pin-cushion, and
indeed, about the same effect upon the be
holder.
The four-in- hand, or cravat, when tist
in this way requires that the pin be not in
serted in one corner, as was permissible
when the smaller scarfs and Liliputisr
pins were worn. Nor In the middle of tn,
cross piece, with trite and stilted sug
/ gestiveness. But in order to come IS nea
as possible to the center of the space seel
through the wsistcost opening, and be
cause 1t appears to give SAVIOR of utilit,
in seeming to hold the knot intact, Their
, is the best excuse for having it penetrst
the middle of the tie, just upon the lowe
edge of the crossfold. Never with
Windsor tie or cravat the slightest indics
tion of jewelry.
The men that have been affecting tn
scarf pins with the msde-up bows, ant
also with the cravats and Windsors tina
need no holding in place and disclose th'
shirt button or stud beneath, are of th
genus dude that typify the most offensive
! phase of over doing in the aping of tn
fashions of the day
With the fine art climax as realized Ii
} both the self tied and made-up example
: of high-grsde scsrfngs, the efficacy of tn
scarf pin has been greatly increased
/ Some of the most distinguished effects ar
perpetuated in the self-tied chef d'ouvres
because In the individuslistic massings b,
, the expert tier the consummAtion 10 he'll
| intact by the pin. In the pre-eminen
made-up specimens q more natural effec
| is often secured with the aid of the scar
pin.
The Confederacy,s Last Money.
From the Atlanta Constitution.I
DR.. G. R. G. Todd, of Barnwell, S. C.,