The morning call., 1892-11-20

Such charges cannot be brought against
the foreigner in China. Whatever may be
his vices and customs from a Chinese point
OF view, riot and murder and the disturbing
of public peace are unknown in such COM
munltles, and an example of peace, order
and progress is afforded such natives as care
to study the settlements"
With regard further 10 the foreigners
vices. Under no circumstances does he
hold out encouragement 10 Chinese TO share
them. Whoever falls, falls exclusively
alone. And we have no opium dens, law
less societies, riot and murder to offer the
young and susceptible Chinese mind seek
ing an easy descent to Avernus.
Every foreigner would be swept out of
China tomorrow by the will OF the people
had China the military and naval power at
her command TO back her will.
What she will presently do has been
prophesled by such farseeing sages as Bea-
conSfeld. SehOuvaloff and Others who FORE
see China's millions. armed TO the teeth
with the latest inventions in modern scien-
tlhc warfare. oveTrunning the earth and
cOnqueriDg by sheer force of numbers and
(purcnased) scientific war machinery. Oae
Of the most pleasant, and. in fact, only prac-
tlcable means of travel for a foreigner in
China is the excursion by houseboat
BY dlnt OF Keeping under cover and rap
idly on the move. hostile villages can be run
through and passed before mobs have col
lected in sufficient number TO O more than
n
at the "Fan-kweT' or "red headed devils"
the generic term for all white men, ire spec
tive OF race or complexion, in the flOwery
land.
In a comfortably fitted up houseboat
(such as depicted in the accompanying
sketch, we'll stocked with provisions,
books and shooting paraphernalia, with a
clever com biBation of hoy" and cook, and
an Intelligent ''lOwdah" or boatman with
two aids. one may travel up the rivers and
lrnE. into 81
form the main highways of China and con-
meet all the larger cities aud villages of the
land one with another.
The methods of progression are four
namely, sailing. 'yulohing." or sculling
from the stern, polling or the towrope.
The first is only practicable on wide
rivers, with fair wind and favoring tide.
Yulohing and polling are always possible
and generally practiced, while the towrope
is used on long sections of canal where
traffic is scattered and the towpath COM
paratively free.
Two slender Cinnamon working easily at
the ''yulOh" from the stern of monster
Canton houseboat will propel IL with the
same speed as would be produced by
twenty stalwart white men working at SIDE
oars or sweeps.
To ''yuloh" successfully. however. a light
load is required. so that rocking motion
can be kept up upon the craft
When dead loads are carried the pole
comes into play.
Every Chinese boat above the tonnage of
the light sampan is fitted no with a twelve
inch plank running outside the hull from
stem to stern.
One, two or six men, according to size or
load, will run nimbly forward to their places
at the bow On either side, and, setting their
long bamboo poles against the bed of the
river or canal. BIT their bare breasts 10 the
unpadded end OF the pole, against which
they press until they are almost in a hori-
Z0ntal position, which they maintain by
tramping rhytnmically down the long plank
to the stern, when the same process is re-
peated.
The pressure against the bamboo pole
would be sufficient to drive a hole through
the body of an ordinary man, but the Chi
naman, from long practice, beyond a dull
blue mark and perhaps slight thiekening of
the skin, shows and feels no bad effects
from the performance.
Such houseboats as pictured, with all
fittings and aDpurtenances, can be hired for
81 80 day in the chief ports or purchased
out and out from $500 TO $500, according to
age and stylishness of Interior furnishings
In the former case the hire includes the
services of the ''lowdah" and his crew.
The lines II excursion open to the for
eigner are strictly limited from a safety
point of view. Out Of these limits tire
slowing of boats and the wrecking Of prop
erty is certain risk to run, while the exit
Of the owners or travellers from the beat for
a ramble any distance along the shore
within the vicinity of village or town in
variably ends In m0bblng and UNPLEASANT
ness. finishing with a journey to the village
''yamen" or courthouse and police escort
to the boat, with a polite but suggestive
hint TO "get on out of here" Personally
speaking, while ] have enjoyed many ex-
cursions unmolested beyond impuGent CON-
ment, to which one grows callOus, in we'll
known hunting grounds ana camping sites,
at the same time my Unsuitable desire for
travel and adventure along unbeaten pa tbs
has invariably met with the stones and dirt
and 1eeriDg abuse of this 'Quet and In
offensive people,"
Retaliation-a mere cuff or blow in ex-
cnange Tor lump of mud upon ones head
would nave meant an attack ending In ugly
ana unpleasant death in any such eases
Submitting 10 the inevitable with good
grace and combining ones self TO the cur
tanned windows of the houseboat while the
'Iowdah' cheerily lies about the tray
cling official maudarins" to any oyer-curi-
Gus passers-by, one gets a most In terestinp
View and study OF Chinese life and customs
as one giides, now through open fields
where tine agriculturist works his manifold
and curious way. then again through crowd
ed cities where humanity swarms like ants
and one can look into the very windows
and interiors Of humble Chinese domestic
life.
Ever and anon the way Is barred with the
chains Of tina ssIekin barriArso nr intsrno 4