The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-01-23
4 TRADlp IN Pol.TUGAL..Iv.



Portuguese Pcasantry -Boundiess lIospl.
tally, LiShtsomo Labor and Joyous Con.
tent : Charming Studies Among tho
Lowry. sh4tt
tcorYEiGHr, 1892. ny EDGAR u. wAKEmASl
Special Correspondence Of Ac lnteliJacer.
~ TAyIRA, PORTUGAL, Jan. Z, 1S02.--My
Gallcgan guide, servant, companion and
friend, honest Dobrado, became SO en-
amored OF our lettering sort Of wander
ings, that, on leaving Beia, | had no
difficulty in overcoming his scruples
against travelling on foot. And 30 our
! way to tho southern soacoast OF Portu-
gal, perhaps 100 miles by the windings
OF tho quaint old thoroughfares OF the
country, was made from Bcja in this
delightful manner.
Is In no strange land havo walked that
distance with such o continuous sense
OF citation OF interest. There are early
October days in our own land which all
these days and nights recalled days
whonithc verdure is still rich upon the
trees; when tho aftermath has pushed
above Sthe stubble OF the fields and
spread an emerald carpet above the aftor
harvest scre; when skies are cloudlcsI
and OF wondrous depth Of blue; and
s when an aroma that hints OF fruit or Of
wine is in the bracing air; evenings
when the whole sky is ablaze from the
setting OF round rod suns that seem to
wait huge and glorious before plungi ~
beneath the purple pillows OF the ives t I;
and nights when the cleaning of lights
from farms and hamlcts quickens the
footstep, OF belated wanderers, and un-
consciously makes more ieager oil home
gatherings where tiresides arc already
taking on u bit OF the winler glow.
~ This is the only winter central and
southern Portugal know. There is Il
tender elation;in it. You unconsciously
breathe great draughts oil the exhilirat-
Z ing air Your head is erect and You
walkin fine strong strides. trhen there
are countless sights and scenes which
charm and enthrall; Of Handicapped
sierra, OF heath.covered moor, OF bound.
less forest, Observation-Disclosures. OF noun.
Z tain-sido hamlets strung together lis on
CANDY thread by strange professions !;
4. OF huge old windmills as in Holland, OF
gigantic water-whcels creaking and
swinging and oxen circling about them
in endless tread, OF walled-in farm.
houses built as if to withstand seise !;
and OF every form OF peasant labor and
{ pastime. always OF deepest interest be-
cause telling the story OF every day life
and living of the humble folk OF any
land, upon whose labor and lives, after
all, the entire social and governmental
superstructure OF any nation is laid.
A SUMMER land inwhich to travel does
not exist. Hospitality is universal and
intense. 1t is go extraordinarily char
acteristic among all classes that 1t often
becomes an impcdimcns to progress in
travel. Between Evora and Tavira,
about go miles by road, We were liter
ally compelled 10 enter more than 100
homes. In a dozen Of these we were
quartered for the night, and in all the
Others refreshments were offered and
partaken OF. Most interesting OF all
were the visits to ruinous old monas-
terics.
1t often seemed that We mnst have
been espied at distance Of miles; TO: in
many instances some ambling old scrvi-
torwas sent to meet US. or again kind
ly-faced friar halted US at the roadside,
and, precisely sas ii the visit-were pre-
arranged, conducted US to his monas-
terry, often a little and pinched habita.
{ ton where less than score OF the order
seemed to be gaining 4 livelihood. The
welcome and benedictlon at parting
were always OF character to convey
the idea that our coming had placed our
host under inexpressible obligations !;
while tho eagerness ofithesc mountains
side monks to gather the nIeagercst
knowledge or the outer worlds affairs
8 and activities was often touching and
pathetic in the extreme.
Friar, farmer peasant were alike
z in punctilious observance OF one pleas.
ant custom. At our departure they
Y always accompanied US some distance
and frequently for miles OIL our way.
2 Then, standing by the wayside until we
were quite out OF hearing and sight,
5 they sent after us all manner OF friendly
4 benediction Sinsterspersedt with "Boa
wagon !-boa wagon Good voyage!
s good voyage y until they must have re-
turned to monastery, villcgciatura or
cabin, hoarse from their kindly called
/, farewclls. ~. e
5l Dobrado tells mo this boundlcss hos
pitality is changclcsa part OF the Por.
tugese religion; that they have as a
common saying, "Curses follow lily
welcomed trlvelcrs;" and that the be-
lief is general hore that good fortune
comes IN degree to the bountiful enter
tainment Of strangers who may chance
among them. Ihavc found the same
custom and belief prevailing in only
one other place in Europe. That is the
west OF Ireland among the poor but
T great-hearted folk OF lone and rugged
Connemara.
But OF deeper interest than all else arc
tho lowly folk CT this fair land. Ihayc
not seen IN town or city IN instance OF
whatwe know rs want and suffering.
Tho slowly in Portugal possess moth
ing; acquire nothing; have burning
4 ambitions ior nothing. a bit OF corn
meal or rye bread, washed down with
water is n reDast. Add TO tho bread Il
4 bit OF fish, a handful OF olives or Il few
swallows ofiwine, and it is . feast.
Tho singing scourGe OF necessity Tor
providence with which the rigors 0!
winter lash our poor is incomprehensi-
4 bic here. AT their backs are noun
tains and valleys green to the sun and
sky tho whole year thr ough, and never
failing in their rich yield OF fruit and
grains. At thcir;ieetarc broad rivers or
tho almost encircling sca.with luscious
food free for the taking. None ever be,
= come rich. None ever arrive ut on,
own idea OF a modest competency
None scarcely know how to think how
riches can DO desirable. Tho wonder
with them is that any one should worry
~ strive H., ,r,, I,,,,,, p, l,n;,,,, 81,