davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

to speak of a Josephine gown is more correct
when you mean the very short waists and
very plain skirts. for the empire saw many a
fnshion besides the shOrt-waistci one. Indeed
in THIS period STAYS came back. Most OF the
gowns labeled as empire are really revival
from directory dresses in the period of the
French republic (l7S9-ls0l). Bodices were
then short WASTED. displaying a good deal of
the bosom. unless it were hidden by gauze
handkerchief or long scarf printed in colors or
braided or brocaded. In this early time of
shOTt-walsted dresses the women had a dear
affectatiOn of innocence and rota bit of the en-
pire immodes.y FOR all their low dresses They
wore straw bonnets and were the most dem ure
things in the world. if they wanted to be.
These were the Beau Brumrael dresses C17s9,
Louis WI, France George ". England).
Then the time went on modesty became
more and more foreign to the short-waisted
gown. Exaggerations alone had vogue. Gowns
were shor: WASTED with long tight sleeves or
short ones, or the arms we're bare or covered
with long gloves. The skirts traied and all
sorts OF headgear were in vogue. The
Greeks we're borrowed from fo- head dresses
and wigs. tIarras and diamond crescents.
Suaugles were invented and much used on
dresses transparent materials came in vogue
aad raiTlent became mere ''gauze-veiled
nudity. All this was more characteristic of
the republic than OF the empire. As for pretty
mOdesty III short waists and long skirts and
scarfs. that is not empire at all. You may call
II, rs have said. Beau Brummel. if YOU like
Another lot OF gowns that are being labeled
Empire belong rightly TO the period follow
ing the empire. the Restoration ISl5D. Short
waistcd gowns now took on dignity: valuable
jewels. wide bright-colored sashes. delicate fans
and embroidered reiicule5 were much worn
Plaid dresses came in and YOU see now what has
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
Reading Aloud.

Reading Aloud.
From Godeys Magazine.
The possession Of the marvellous and intricate
faculty Of articulate speech seems no more
miraculous to the minimizing than do the
eternal varieties of eating, drinking and Sleep
ing. Yet the former is arbitrary and conven-
tional. the invention of man-perhaps not
confined to him. il Prof Garner. of monkey
speech fame. is to be believed-while the latter
are natural. absolute common, and the sine qua
non of existence.
The Office OF speech-the celebrated French
diplomat to the contrary overwhelmingly
to convey thought How important. then.
that this vehicle of thought transference, this
common carrier OF ideas. this carriage laden
with the most delicate and elusive Of burthens
nothing less than the very essence of the soul
perishable freight indeed. should be carefully
watched and developed to its highest and best
capacity.
individual may be taught to express the
thoughts Of himself or others in an intelligent.
Ineligible even pleasing fashion. makes il
seem almost criminal to neglect such O vast
possible addition to the general good. Never
thsless, the wiseacres who preside over the
destinies Of our common. high and collegiate
schools, will probably continue to decide that
cube-root diferential calculus and the nom
enclature of rivers in Central Africa are more
desirable accomplishments than the possession
of sweet voice and the intelligence to use it
properly.
l do not by any means desire to depreciate
cultivation Of the mind in any direction.
In none Of the arts, for reading is not only
an art but the noblest of them all does gem
eral information, education and intelligence
count for SO much.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
New Method of Starting Street Cars.

From the Chicago News-Record.
The latest method Of starting street cars in
Denver is said to result in saving Of at least
80 per cent over the cost Of the ordinary sys-
tenn. The difficulty Of maintaining schedule
time with large number Of cars is we'll recog-
nized, and on many lines il the car be delayed
by an accident for a quarter of an hour or
twenty minutes the whole line will be 20 de-
moralized that schedule time viii not be over
taken during the whole day. In the city Of
Denver there are seventy-four miles Of cleo
trical and thirteen miles Of cable tracks, re-
curing 103 trains in daily operation. To OBJ
viate the Inconvenience which breakdown of
any kind inevitably causes q system Of tele-
phone circuits has been arranged with various
call points, all communicating with the head
office. Every conductor ON arriving at the
terminus Of the route Immediately reports the
number Of his car to headquarters and receives
in reply his proper leaving time and any in
structions that may be necessary. The dis
patch clerk is in this way advised of the where
abouts of each car. and is very often enabled to
fill up q space OF from thirty to sixty minutes
caused by a parade" The saving Of starters
at the various termini is taken as q set of
against the expense of the telephones
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

suggested orr sudden jump o; late into plaids,
though as vet we have not adapted them to the
short-wsisted gowns. Large chip hats had the
edges cut into squares, green much in
vogue and so were closks with double collars
Silver woven into s.uffs; feather trimming
and fur trimming were the rage, sleeves were
pulled and trimmed with rows of ruching. You
gee the Restoration is well represented in our
fashions at present. and many of its character
istics have been classed under Empire" while
many more have not been clssseei At all, which
only goes TO show that one lovely woman has
epitomized several periods in herself. and just
because Josephine is represented in short
WASTED gowns. all short-waisted gowns forever
more are Empire. But if You do not want to
go INTO just her kind OF short WASTED gowns
you will find lots OF other kinds in the periods
covered BY the term Enipire-the short WASTED
dresses. for instance. that are short skirted,
too, trimmed with wreaths Of flowers OF ribbon
spiraily wound about the skirt. q wreath Of
flowers or ribbon about the head. You may
wear bodices short wasted. but not under the
arms. and very full skirts and swell little short
wasted coats in Thermidor style. You may do
your hair high or low and quite loose, 20 long
as 1t Is picturesque.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
CONCERNING MEMS DRESS.
Facts and PhilosOphic Observations That
Instruct and Entertain.

Facts and PhilosOphic Observations That
Instruct and Entertain.
From the Clothier and Furnsher
The winter fashions for men are only ultra
in their forms, and it is an evidence of the keen
perception that governs the launching of the
various topcoats and undercoa.s that their
greater length is the one dominant touch which
is markedly manifest. The counterbalancing
taking care to ward off, in any and every man
ner. establishment OF detail from the vogue
and absolutely keep in subjugnton the slightest
decoration. even in stitching. does much to
lessen the nccentuation which these garments
would take on herewith, and thus afford the
conservatives chance for cavil
The votaries of fashIondom's shrine recoy-
nize the suficiency innovation of the va
rious new shapes, involving as they do an eclat
in construction that cannot fail TO addIce the
admiration Of all embarrassing men. As an in
stance of this adept quelling Of all garnishment
upon the new single breasted long tailed trock
there is not II bntton visible on the coat-it
being fy-front to the waist line and having
crows feet at the junction Of the tails with the
waist line at the back and the usual buttons
absent from the coat sleeve.
The long-tailed frock generally adopted by
the American gentleman ehas none Of the carl
caturic length OF the pronounced English gar
ment. IL Is below the Knee and the native pro-
totype has more snap to 1t than the English
model
There was a time when all-linen shirts were
generally worn by the rich men Of the town,
and there are a number Of the old guard and
many OF the younger mon Of the town that pay
so much as Sl2 each or $144 per dozen for
their all fne-white-linen shirts. These are with
and without collars aud cuffs The laundry
men do not get chance at them Some old.
fashioned retainer handles them tenderly and
gets the home like dull finish on the starched
shirt front. 1t is a curious fact that the man
OF middle age that will pay willingly the high
price for all-linen shirts will seek to strike an
average on his outlay by going into some dry
goods store and purchasing an assortment Of
50-cent neck scarfs.
The premiership of self-tie effects and the
dissemination Of how to wear the scarfpin has
helped the jewelry Makers for every well-to-do
man. out Of the greater regard which the
quietude OF the clothing has engendered for the
zest which the bit of usckwear coloring i'm
parts, has been led to an ownership Of more
OF these baubles in decoration. which have a
just right in their proper time and place. and
have become the most important piece Of mas
culine jewelry in every day garb.
Some Of the swells are wearing spats again.
While they cannot be sanctioned upon the score
Of utilitarinnism, it may not be gainsaid that in
suitable colors and worn at proper times they
impart touch Of individuality to tho wearer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

breath. and demanding more room to
breathe and move in. bu: trim waist and
eorset;ed hips are going 20 have their share
Of admirers for a long time vet. Besides,
cannot throw away all our old gowns and rush
reckie-siy into the new styles. Luckily for the
old gowns. a very few additions viii put them
quite in harmony with present demands. Up
right pufs must come down from the shoulders.
Carry the fgllness straight out from the
shoulder now ~ far Won like; balloon shape
y the thing now. Make yourself look il you
had stuck each arm through piize pumpkin or
a double prize watermelon Increase the broad
effect BY rufiie OF Lace o. of uytking that will
lie out over these puffs and narrow i'll toward
the waist. o. finish ut the edge OF the very
popular and easily adjusted Zouave. Your Old
dress IL thus transformed. Sash belts are
another thing ths; furbelpw up an old gown
into new one. Remember. too. that the op-
position TO the empire encourages paniers. The
wav 20 bring about paniers Ia TO start very
rlsekly just ruirie OF fab o; lace at the hips,
which slso covers the wear that viii show
about the hips Of an old dress. You see. shion
Is 20 be ruled to your advantage. instead OF
making q slave Of you.
Let Us be explicit to that initial sketch
IL was drawn from toilet in dark green
velvet and chang@able red Slcilienne silk
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
The Tale Of the Telephone.
From the Shefheld Telegraph.

ffom the ShefneId 1eleRrapb.
The first telephone that was ever used was
not electrical, nor was it scientific instrument
in any sense Of the term. A little more than
fifty years ago the employees Of q large man.
ufactory beguiled their leisure hours BY kite
flying. Kites large and small went up daily
and the strife was to see who could get the
largest. The twine which held them was the
thread spun and twisted by the ladies Of the
villages.
One day to the tail Of the largest kite was At
tached kitten, sewed In . canvas bag, with .
the kite ~as At its greatest height some 200 feet
or more, the mewing OF the kitten could be
distinctly heard by those holding the string.
To the cleerness Of the atmosphere was at
triouted the hearing Of the Kittens voice.
This is the first account We remember Of speak
ing along . line.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
WAR TINE CHRISTMAS
How the Festival Was Kept on a
North Carolina Plantation.
AT A con crate POST
When the Boys Were Home From the Front
on Furiough-Poor bu, Jolly-Crude Ma
,erials-Everything Home NIaile-A Christi
mas Party.
Written for The Evening Star.

THINK THAT
everything Of interest
in my life happened
when l was a little child
during the war. 1t may
be that in the quiet Of
the monotonous years
since then the excite
ment, activity and con-
slant change Of those
stirring times assume
an undue importance
and everyday life is
stnpid BY contrast, or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

Reilly Cow Ms MAY
be made for ali kinds
OF wear by taking ideas
from ornate ball toilets.
So, dear home dress
makers. observe this
initial picture. Let it
teach you, fret, that
the women with small
waists are not going to
give mp showing them
all Of a sudden. They
need not. One must
admit that fashion il
taking n big, deep
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

the bning. The velvet Is folded on both sides,
according 20 the form Of this pla.tron. The
braces are Of lace like the basques and are
fa..ened az the back underneath the belt The
pla<;ron h edged with three folds Of lace, which
are fastened on TO the pleated founce. A folded
belt on strong Inning Is fastened at the side
Tbs bands Of velvet which rise from the belt at
the bse. joan on the ptastron in front under
meath the braces. and thus form q simulated
eorS-let. Balloon sleeves tightly fitting lin
ing are gathered in BY an elastic At the bottom
and trimmed with a rosetto or bow Of ribbon.
4. Ths second ball toilet illustrated IL made Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

OK MONTHS PAST
the patent Office has
been busy with the
preparation OF its
worlds fair exhibit,
which will be the most
remarkable display Of
the kind ever attempted.
Eleven thousand dollars
have been expended
solely in the cleaning
and repairing Of old
models which are to
partly compose the col
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
PATENTSFOR THE FAIR
How Yankee Ideas Are to Be Illus
trated at the Worlds Fair.
THE HISTORY OF INVENTION.

The Exhibit Eeins Packed for shipment
Series Showing the Development Of Sewing
Mschines. Steam Engines. Textile Ma
chinery. Printing Presses, Guns and Har
vesting Machines-How the Models Were
Prepared.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31


The edge Of The skirt is surrounded BY
two tounce-. fastened on at the same time one
turning upward and the other down They
are -ewed TO keep this form The skirt IL about
three yards and hale woe. ~ Is composed Of
n front breadth. two side breadths ON each aide
and two back breatths. the latter ye-y much
,loped at ths top. II necessary the parts that
are cut out at the tor IN order 10 make the
bias can be used TO widen the skirt The front
bread n Il rounded on top and has n small dart
ON each side. he first side widths are rather
longer than usual. IN order that the skirt may
sfterNsrd be made quite equal in length. The
side breadth- are a little longer aad the back
enes are cut The whole length of the train In
joining the different bres,lths. which are lined
With muslin through ali parts which touch the
ground. only SIX Is taken. the muslin il -ewed
separately and Is Hfterwa-d attached under
heath these seams OF course the seams must
Be irOned first. III. frout breadth has one dart
the side ones have two and the back breadths
are gathered IN at the waist. The iasiie of the
skirt u trimmed with two o- three founces of
scallOPed silk. Al the 20? the basques OF plested
lace are seUeG the ends of WhIch fall IN front
onto the skirt in the shape of jabot as shown
ey the engraving. The plain waist of dark
green velvet hasa p!ast-on behind and in front:
u u Of the same color the changeabie ma
terisl Of the dress. The plhstron is gathered
really % fasteG % the collar. These pleats are
stretched very tightly and in the back form a
groove Of pleais above the waist belt The
velvet l.. OF course. cut away where the plas-
uoa CONES. 50 thai th- i, only supported by
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
From Life,

Boy (to party who has come to grief)-'sBesn
takin' a drink with the boys, eh? You ought TO
be ashamed Of yourself at your time OF life to
get into such condition. An you're the
father OF q family, ! dare say
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

WORD comes from all euarteu that the neatest
and most satisfactory dye for color1ng the beard 4
brown or black h Buckinghsms dye Tor the Waisk-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
&c ENehibR Star.
swansea Lights.

'ritten for The Evening Star.
swansea Lights.
Swansea Lights are burning low
Through winding sheets of whirling snow;
Whiiecap waves wash madly forth,
Surging combers from the North;
Black old ocean fumes and fights
By the rocks round Swansea Lights
Swansea Lights, How dark the tale
OF wintry night and bowling gale!
Sudden shipwreck, all hands lost,
Drowned men on the lodges tossed;
Day disclosing fearful sights
In the surf by Swansea Lightsl
Swansea Lights, despair and grief
Have lowered DER your angry reef
Sailor wives mid tears and blood
Seeking dear ones in the food,
Where the seagulls wing their flights
Round the rocks OF Swansea Lights.
Swansea Lghtsi Poor mothers moan,
The widows and the orphans groan;
Salt tears fall for vanished lives
In the ship that ne'er arrives;
Longing, many fond heart blghts,
For love lost meath Swansea Lights.
Swansea Lights, your lamps are bright
When stars Hume the tranquil night;
Warm sea breezes fan your tower
sort as breath from maiden's bower:
Balmy summer crowns your heights,
Smile the skies DER Swansea Lights,
Swansea Lights are all aglow
Ger crested seas thai ebb and now,
Welcome beacons to the souls
On the ship that homeward rolls,
Warned afar from peril's frights
By the fiare OF Swansea Lights.
DAVID GRAHAM AIDE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

ATCH MEETIN's Is
soms antique, bn, !
takes /, they air way mp
valuable instertoo DO
shuns."
Pinto Daa spit re-
faectively and threw his
left leg over the arm OF
his big lesiher chair.
Gispla wing 60 good ad-
vantage his small
shapely foo; inessed in
a trim high-heeled boo;
which looked lone
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
sHoRT-wAIsrEp GOWNS.

less than exact in their quotations of"periods. a."
Everything short-waisted is called empire.
Strictly speaking. the fashions of "the empire"
(ls0D merely exaggerated those of the republic
in its later fancies tl796-1s04). The short
wasted gown was not invented by Josephine
in the empire. IL was merely adapted by her
Her adaptation was the sack dress, with the
waist close up under the srm7 and the bosom
pushed up 10 tho chin A criticism OF the
time has II thus: "A fashion far from graceful
and woman needs to be beautiful to look
well in such a costume" Gowns were indie
Gently low for the street and at all times
Artificial flowers were innovation and were
much used on gowns and in the hair. Nine de
Stael wrote ''COrinne' about this time and the
harp became the rage and floating scarfs more
than ever popular. But, after ALL these things
were hardly invente Il in the empire period and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

cinder gray cactus cloth with q sunken figure.
II is princess shape, and the bottom has a Dor
der Of fame -colored novelty velvet bordr-"d
on each side with gray ostrich ruching. The
pointed front Of red velvet is trimmed Win
feathers and shows plastron Of gray. The
back is shirred at the shoulders and waist. and
there is OF the velvet A short talbot falls
on one side of the back. The upper portion of
the sleeves are Of the CLOTH and the lower of
velvet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
FASHIONS DEGREES.
Small Waists Will Not Go Out of
Style Soon.
YER SSES
short WASTED Gown. and Their Origin
Characteristics of Republic and Empire.


NEW YORK December 80. 1892.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

The series showing the progress of gun max
ing will begin with the Chinese wooden cannon,
which represents the most primitive type
known. 1t is composed Of two long pieces Of
heavy wood. both Rrooved, which are bound
together with stout iron hoops in such manner
as to form tube. The earliest hand gun be-
longs to the thirteenth century and looks like
q Roman candle. II was both loaded and
lighted at the muzzle. The ''hand culverin,"
an iron tube set in wooden shoulder piece,
was FIRST employed in the fourteenth century.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

More than 100 sewing machines will be exhib-
tied in this series marking every step in the i'm
provement and development of the mechanical
wonder
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

From these the growth of the art will be fol-
loved down to the modern magazine breech-
loading RTE. automatic guns which discharge
themselves. each shtt setting of the next cart
ridge. and The Hotchkiss revolving cannon.
Which throws continuous hail OF six-pound
bullets from the rail of ship. An oddity 10
the Lyman accelera.ing gun, which has little
chambers all along the tube. These are filed
with powder and are discharged as the pro-
jectile is leaving the weapon, giving the latter
additional iunefna
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31
Written for The Evening star.

E8E|A OR MONTHS Pas
E3SZI1G fha nafanA nAica b
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1892-12-31

lection shown. They have formed the basis Of
the arrangement the gaps in their order being
hlled by constructing reproductions of missing
types Of mechanical devices, ancient and other
wise. and also by borrowing. Thus has been
made up complete assemblage Of objects, the
purpose Of which will be to illustrate the history
Of invention.
The ladies not to be left out of this affair
They obtained from Congress at it's last session
authorization to demand from the Secretary Of
the Interior all models OF women's inventions
in possession of the patent Office. Il IL their
intention TO compose from these an exhibit
which shall fifty demonstrate the remarkable
faculty Of original continuance possessed by the
female mind. About the only machines they
will have to shoY will be two sewing machines
and a bottling machine. but their lack in this
respect Will be more than compensated for by
the multitude of improvements in the way of
corsets and bustles. nursery. toilet and cooking
accessories, which chiefly compose the list of
novel devices planned by the 5000 women in
yentors whose names are recorded by
Uncle Sam. In this connection due attention
should be given to the claim made the other
day by one Of the ladies connected with
the management Of the worlds far who er-
pressed a belief that nearly all known inven-
tions we're actually due to women, who had
suggested the ideas to their husbands and
brothers.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1892-11-01
THE SECRETARYSHIP.
Hon. l.. Spiegelberg in the Lead and
the Appointment Probable
at Any Hour.

From all indications the territorial
secretaryship will be filled within day
or two. In fact, any hour is expected to
bring a telegram from Washington an
nouncing the name of the appointee.
The candidates, so far as known here
are: Lehman Spiegelberg, of this city;
Silas Alexander, of Sierra county; II. Ii
Belts and Geo. H. Utter, of Silver City.
The NEW MExIoAN's information is that
Mr. Spiegelberg has the lead and will in
all probability receive the appointment,
number of influential New Workers hay
ing given him a most flattering endorse
ment which, added to the numerous petit
tions sent on in his behalf from Santa
Fe, Albuquerque, Las Cruces and other
territorial points, has given his cand1-
dacy position far i'll advance of all
other applicants.
Much business remains tied up in the
secretary's office, particularly matters
touching the organization of new cor
porations, and people all over the terri
tory will be pleased to know that the APP
pointment will not much longer be de-
layed,