The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-06-11
WgKEMANS TRAVELS.
Salisbury, England, the sarum of
Roman Britain.
SOME OLD CATHEDRAL TOWNS
Pen Pictures Of tho City Of Salisbury.
Its Interesting Surroundings 80 It's
Noble Cathedral and the Most Beau
tirul Cathedral Close in England
IcopYmonr. 1877. ny EDGAR !. wAKEHAS.

all the moro because they lOvc their
slight little island" with an arrant, de-
FAINT and incorporating unreasona-
bleness.
The admiration is not for their often
muiish and sodden defense Of some fea-
lures Of English government, nor for all
English institutions, nor for some very
unpleasant English things and people.
1t is because every square acre OF Eng
land is SO endearing in its age, associa.
ton and beauty, and those who possess
it will Justly brook no belittlemcnt Of it
all; any more than you would lot some
smart stranger come into your home
and sneer at your sweetest and most
cherished, il simple, belongings-beau,,
titled by effort, hallowed by time and
use, even more tenderly loved for your
own errors and shortcomings--without
pitching both him and his airs inconti-
nently into the highway.
1t is such beautiful country; such q
well-kept and delicious old garden; such
smiling land in sunshine and snug
end comfortable one in storm; and
withal gives to the stranger within it
such a sense OF constant interest
coupled with close human companion
ship and sympathies; that cynic and
prig and incapable OF interest in any
land but his own, though he be, he can
not now and then repress klndling
enthusiasm, be here and :here pricked
into secret admiration, in this place
and that find tender and associative in.
terest; and, however disioyai it may be
to his determined "Americanism, in
spite OF himself melt under its innumer-
able appeals to his heart and intellect,
until its good and sunny face cozens his
frigidity into bright, responsive look,
and unwittingly his tongue pays tribute
with: m
"Dear old England! most venerable
and mellowin all things, most cnntRn-
kerous s1ld obstinate in many, thy face
has kinship and kingship in it, bud
thou art brightest and loyeliest OF all
strange lands!"
And never win this be truer than
when, after d tidy breakfast at some
quiet old city inn, at peace with all the
world-or all that can get at you-you
are whirled away, from tho CRIME and
slime OF London, over tho London 4
Southwestern railway, across the shires
OF Surrey and Hants, to ancient Sails
bury town.
In that less than two hours journey,
on an English day in May-time, what
innumerable scenes OF interest, OF stir
ring quality and OF restfulness and re-
pose flash upon you from your carriage
window! Passing from Waterloo sta
ton, or fronlany other railway station
in the heart, OF London, through the
lessening densities Of the wonderful city
to the first reaches OF grassy fields, is in
itself tremendous social object lesson
and historic panorama.
But here to the lcit.is gay old EPSON.
Over yonder, to the right, is brilliant
Ascot, with the vast and turreted home
OF England's queen, at Windsor, q
leaden gray silhouette piercing the sky
beyond. TO the south sweeps
"-the downs OF Basted, edged with woods,
And lowry Sillas-"
Whiskingqinto Hants, or Hampshire,
you pass Oldham, birthplace OF the
grammarian, William Lilly; and to the
north lie Basing, site OF one OF the
lordliest castles Of early England, and
Slichester, 10 this day an exhaustlcss
mine OF Roman remains. Within its
walls the gSurper Constantine was ill.,
vested with the purple; and legend has
it that King Arthur here received his
crown. Further towards the sea, near
Alresford, are the great Tichborne es.
tates; the sleepy hamlet OF King Sam
bourn, where John OF Gaunt had his
old-time palace; Danebury Hill, with
its frowning head and Roman encamp-
ment; and beyond, the low, square
tower OF Winchester, behind which the
purple fringe OF woods hints OF New
Forest depths, where tho arrow from
Tyrrcl's bow pierced the heart OF rui.
fan Rufus, England's second Norman
king.
'These arc few Of the things ono will
know about from the books. Still moro
gratefully feastful are tho things one
will see and feel, as innumerable ham.
lots, houses and halls are passed. Glori.
GUS old manor houses fash from parks
and demcsne forests. Thatched roofs
OF village homes, yellow with lichen, are
varied hero and there by rod tiling.
Avenues OF ancient Gins, beech and
lines give tempting vistas above broad
roads, tesselated with lights and shades,
and as gray and smooth as some old
cathedral floor Cropped hedges with
trim, tiny fields give place here and
there to downs rolling away in billowy
hills OF heather, spangled with tho
golden aSphodel, or wide meadows and
tiny marshes where flames the yellow
marigold, or where the forget-me-nots
are so dense and blue that their surface
seems like bree2e.rippled pool. HaW.
thorn lanes are white above and beneath
as banks OF driven snow. Great masses
of honeysuckle trail from copse and
hedge; and in around and above all this
Mny-time nRture-heayen, thrushes and
blackbirds, high above tho roaring OF
your train, flood all the morn with song.
Almost cnraptured one descends into
tho valleys OF the downs OF South Wilt
shire. Here, where the tiny Bourne.
tho southern Avon, the Nadder and the
Wiley songtully meet in rich and
beautiful valley, arc seen the gray
masses of the old cathedral town.
Old as,it is 1t was originally built
dry place." OF the Romans. Old and
New Sarum, the site OF tho old city and
the new city itself arc called. As vol
approach Salisbury down tho winding
course OF the Bourne, you will see tho
old Roman station 10 your right, about
two miles north OF the city. 1t stands
upon chalky eminence, tho headland
OF ridge of downs dominating all the
beautiful valley below.
No ono knows how long before its &C.
cupation BY tho Romans it had been