The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1892-07-15

SAVIOR OF INCONSISTENCY 30 W." -
tating hospitality and generosity, ever
when the object Of the same seems 70 ens
Cornishman TO be wholly an unworthy one
spoke to q brawny miner Just AZ ne "as
leaving his cottage to take up MS WORK -
the mine with the Afternoon corps,
which goes "below grass at O'CLOCK
telling him that as ! had walked the
length of Cornwall from Plymouth
wished to reach Penzance the same way
and not by rail from ST. Ives.
"Awd rat thai Tha cussnt Cannot
stpff ,nelu be replied, with genuine scorn
In his honest face.
Jsaw he had mistaken me for tramp.
and 7 turned away with CHEEKY Good
davu He beloved to me instantly:
@If tha'U wait bit, my son. anvil see II
Ginny (his Wife can spare tina mossel"
There was not a "mossel" to eat left IN
"Cousin Jacks" house, as his "crib" or
lunch bag held the last "faggon" or
"pasty." but his generosity was not to be
defeated. He soon reappeared and pressed
upon me miners candle. putting 1t IN my
rocket with his own rough hands, and
sending me along the right road TO Pen
zance with many beloved parting words
of cheer.
This candle was a mystery to me at the
| time but soon discovered it's significance
and value. Through some ancient custom
or mining regulation corps" OF miners
is compelled each month TO buy certain
number Of pounds Of candles Inese are
the best quality of candles known in Corn
wall, and all other lowly folk IKE 10 ge'
them. So tho overplus is carefully saved.
divided among the mine "pairdners" ana
taken home TO the miners wives, who ex-
change them for trihing Injuries and ne
cessities at the shops. Miners candles
are therefore currency OF the realm, "A
can'ls worth Of tay," cheese, eggs, sugar,
ETC., having been from time immemoria'
equivalent to "ha'penny 'orth" OF these
or other articles in exchange.
The traveller will learn that the pleasure
In visiting Penzance is to be found in the
extraordinary objects of interest and the
glorious coast scenery accessible from the
town. rather than in the place itself II is
barren Of antiquities and historic charm.
There were once some smugglers here. sir
Humphry Davy was native Of the place.
A comic opera has been written about 1t.
That is nearly all, besides numberless inns
and lodging houses, which you can ind to
interest you here
1t is, however, the metropolis OF the
Lands End district OF Cornwall and is al
ways running over with tourists for whom
the famous logan or rocking stone, the
sublime headlands, the hoary parish
churches roundabout. the grand old &c
clesiastic antique, ST. Michaeps mount
(Which must not be COMPOUNDED with Mont
St. Michael on the coast OF Normandy,
and Lands End itself, the southwestern
most point in England, have an endless
fascination. One feature of Penzance IT
self is indicative Of the genuine enjoyment
of English people in summer In their trips
By coach or in humber traps or vans. In
the one long, narrow street Of the city you
can on any summers day count from 100
70 200 of these vehicles, whose occupants,
as there is no railway or town OK any i'm
portance beyond PenZance, are tarrying
here for refreshment and rest.
But Mounts bay itself, at the edge OF
which rests Penzance, on almost leve
ground behind her huge breakwater, and
from which ST. Micbael's mount rises to
very great height with sheer escarpments
of granite on three Sides, and the dim old
crag, crowned by mass upon mass OF me-
dieval towers, is one Of the most charming
marine bits for observation and study in
Europe.
The bay is horseshoe shaped, its mouth
opening directly TO the south upon the
English channel, which is at all times COW
cred with sailing craft and steamers On
the right or western side is Penzance,
backed by farreaching hills, and strag-
Cling off TO the southwest toward the head
lands of Mousehole and St. Clements. On
the north of the bay, asleep in the simmer
of the summer sun, is Narration, market
for Cornish tin controlled by Jews from
1900 TO 1000 years ago. Around this old
place cluster some of the most curious leg
ends of Cornwall's remote past.
The western boundary of the bay is
formed by one of the strangest roadways
In the world. From the mainland near
Narration winds a submarine thorough
fare, certainly submarine at high tide, to
the far grim mount within the sea. At
low tide it is high and dry and splendid
means of communication between the IS
land and the land. No one has ever been
able to solve the mystery of this singular
road; and whether natural phenomenon
or made by the hand Of man you can only
conjecture as you wend your way upon 1t
with the gray old height looming vaster
and more mysterious as you approach.
Poets have made 1t their theme; artists
have been delighted with the picturesque
grandeur and beauty of its overhanging
rocks, and kings have fought furiously for
it's possession and mastery. The legend Is
that St. Michael, the archangel, appeared
here in 49, and in consequence of this IL
was visited by St. Kenna, who founded a
religious establishment TO commemorate
the event 1t is known, however, that a
priory of Benedictine monks was placed
here by Edward the Confessor, and the
mount was exclusively devoted to religion
until the time Of Richard |. Since that
time it has been the scenesof countless de-
lenses and captures, captivities and inn
murements, valor and treachery. In 1860
It came INTO the possession of the st.
Aubyps, of Cornwall, who have continued
10 beautify this one of the most extraordi-
nary spots in the world.
At the northern base are extensive forti-
fcations and a village. AT the top Of the
mount there is more striking collection
of buildings, formed for the purpose of
religious uses and the stoutest defense in
medieval times TO be found elsewhere in
Great Britain. The guardroom with its
ancient armor is alone worthy of months
study. Warwick Castle cannot boast
up with stalls III the manner of a cathe-
dral, and chapel tower deserve TO rank
among the most venerable and stately GU