The morning call., 1892-01-03

and sensual than those OF Spain. They
may not have the Saucness aud fash OF the
French. The melancholy of the Italian
women is lacking. But they ara still beau
tilul and wholesome women, with sweet
ness OF mouth, liquidity of ewes and
kindly and honest light in the whole face,
that compensate in genuine admiration and
pect any loss on the line OF Sensually
sentimental interest.
Besides these there Is the Interesting
Praea da Flguera, or Flower Market, one
of the most attractive places in Lisbon; the
Campo Grande, over mile in length, just
at the edge OF the city, where the riding and
driving of the aristocracy may be seen; the
Campo de Santa Anna, where the noted
Lisbon Rag Fair is held weekly; the Praca
de Sac Pedro d Alcantara. a magnitcently
shaded promenade, with she'll grott0 and
fountains, overlooking the city and harbor,
and a score of lesser pracaS, squares, gar
dens and parks, where the Wayfarer may
tarry, rest and enjoy. Lisbon is peopled by
perhaps 800, 900 souls. None of its parks
can compare with Central Park, New DIRK,
or Lincoln and jackson parks, Chicago.
But / have never visited any city in Europe
in which / have found so great number of
tiny resort places, each different from any
other, and every one so interesting In Its
separate individuality, beauty and CHARM.
Alphabetically Lisbon in detail is vastly
more interesting than beautiful. AS you
approach it from the sea, with its domeS and
towers, all hanked by castellated heights
and
PURPLE MOUNTAINS BEHIND,
1t is imposing and grand. When you come
to wander within it, you are never aStOnished
or even greatly impressed by its edifices. Its
churches are less interesting than those OF
any other city of equal size in Europe. The
Church of the Heart Of Jesus, on the sum
nit Of EStrella Hill, in imitation of ST.
Peters at Rome, without the colonnade, Is
the most pretentious in Lisbon. The church
of Sac Domingo, the see of the Cardinal
Patriarch, near the ROciO, is vast in proper
tions. The mortuary church of Sac Vicente
is interesting chiefly from Its contain
ing, il curious gilt boxes, the remains
of the iluStri0uS dead Of the royal house OF
BraganZa. The tiny church Of San Rogue,
with It's famous chapel OF st. John, at
tracts all visitors on account Of its marvel
Gus mOsaicS. These, forming the back and
sides Of the structure, are copies in verita-
bic size of Ralph UrbIno's Descent OF the
Holy Ghost" Guides "Annunciation" and
The wonderful perfection Of this work is
shown in the fact that from any ordinary
p0iut OF observation no difference between
them and the originals can be detected.
More curious still the entire chapel and its
interior decorations were first set up in
Rome, blessed by Pope Benedict XIV.
taken down, and transferred TO its present
site. It's cost has been millions and there
is probably not in the whole world such
treasure in art. silver, gold and precious
stones in a sacred editice of equal dimen-
sioDS.
1t is the charm of extreme contrast and
endless change which holds and makes one
love old Lisbon. There are no TWO streets,
pracaS, churches, public buildings. shops or
homes alike. Away from the half dozen
modern business streets it is almost the
same Lisbon that Columbus knew. Here
is a shadOwy shop Of one story where
men grope about among gritty piles OF
charcoal. The next building may be a
three or five story structure housing the
richest OF wares, whose upper stories are
faneifully decorated in gorgeous paints and
gifts.
Next to this on one side of dark passage
jolly eobblers beat ceaseiess staccatos,
cutler grinds and hammers on the other,
and away in there a stream of light shows
exquisite stairs leading to some incioSed
court where a home Of Opulence is embedded
in vines and roses. Everywhere are pom
derous base and arch, huge columns and
tremendous entablaGure, often supporting
buildings whose insignihcance is ludi-
cTouSly startling.
In many of the older public edifces the
architecture is Moorish or semi Moorish.
and the facades are often falked by square
! towers and dmlnutive Saracenic dGmes.
The general plan of shop and abode in the
ancient portions Of the city is, the shop be-
INV duu kBG HDiHc dBUNC, VI JllS lOaSA etUE1
is used as a sort of entrada TO
WALLED IN HOME STRUCTURES
In the rear, or the habitation above. In the
latter cese these entradas are temporary
shops for itinerant cObblers, cutters, sad
oilers and the like, or lounging-places for
beggars, dOnkeyS and goats. But however
uusayOry may seem the ground floor of, or
the street entrance to, any structure, the
upper stories of the same, or the pretty
h0me-nests behind, afford abundant COM
pensatiOn In the picturesque groupings and
scenes.
Balconies are as universal as in Havana,
Nalladolid, Madrid or Seville. Some pro-
jeet from supports of carved stone. Others
rest with airy insecurity upon fancfully
wrought tlmoers aud still others may be
seen in the daintiest patterns into which
brass and iron may be wrought. Many are
latticed; and in this lattice-work are odd
little slides and gates Behind these the
fair Portuguese women eat their dainty
salads, OF which they are Unfortunately fond,
and sip their wines and ices And from the
partially opened lattice as you pass you
will catch chances from lovely eyes, and as
often smiles and coquettish looks from
rOgulsh faces. The Lisbon maidens must
be ehary Of their looks upon friends or
strangers in the street; but social custom
gives them the somewhat comparative and
altogether blessed right 70 filTt desperately
with you from the lofty and safe outpOsts
Of their balcOnied alc0bas.
AS one passes toward the outskirts Of
Lisbon all that is suggestive of the home is
pleasanter still. There is a hint Of snug
ness in the high surrounding vine-covered
walls Of yards and courts. Here the open
court of the SDaniaTd and the Moor becomes
more common and more beautiful. 1t
shelters the home-gstherings and belong
ings Of the average family. All its men,
bers are more or less within il. or within
reach of voice from it. Many lovely flowers
and clamberlng vines light up the place in
winter as well as in summer days. The
murmuTOus fail of water is always heard,
for no patio is without its fountain. And
poor indeed Is the house in old Lisbon that
has not its walled garden with wealth of
flowers, plants, outrageous trees and quaint,
tiled grOund-sunken trOnghs through which
the water is eeaselessly whimperng and
whispering-for all the gardens are thus IT.
rigated-while every court and garden is
melOdious with the songs of those match
less brown caDaries which are weekly
brought, hundreds upon hundreds, from the
sunli: Isles OF the Azores
EDGAR L. wAKEMAN.
Copyright. 1895.