Iuka reporter. (Iuka, Miss.) 1888-1894, 1892-11-03
THE PERFUMER'S ART
HOW THE MANUFACTUR GETS
HINTS FROM NATURE.
Not More Than Dozen Blossoms
Actually Used - The Musk
beers Strong Secretion
-Ottar of Roses.
: THOUGH the shelves of a we'll

every flower possessing a de-
sirable odor, yet not more than a dozen
blossoms are actually used by the manu-
facturer. The chief materials needed
are scarcely more than two dozen-a
few flowers, a few herbs, few spices
and few balsamic substances. From
these the manufacturer produces count
less varieties, initiating blossoms which
are inaccessible to his hand or refuse to
yield their sweets to his most careful
skill.
Take the delicate heliotrope for in
stance. 1t gives a fragrance resembling
the aroma of vanilla combined with the
sharper scent of the bitter almond. The
heliotrope itself is both scarce and I'm
profitable to the maker of perfumes,
while the two latter substances are easily
obtainable. Taking advantage of the
idea suggested the manufacturer adds to
vanilla tincture small proportion of
bitter almond ottar and sufficient rose
and orange flower essences to give sweet
ness and a floral character to the COM
pound and thus easily makes what is
really an excellent "extract of hello
trope."
Sweetbriar is also fashionable and
much sought for odor. The perfume of
the sweetbriar itself is so fieeting that no
means yet devised can isolate or imprison
it. But society had to be humored and
the compounder finally hit upon way
out the difficulty. The rose gave him
the foundation. A few other flowers
modified it and dash of verbena created
the artificial essence.
But inventive art reaches still further.
It creates perfumes by compounding
odors which are unknown in nature:
The most pleasing perfumes are those
that are distilled from the living flowers
or the flower essences. But the public
demands at the same time that they
shall be lasting. These two conditions
will not mix naturally, and the mapufac-
turer finds himself compelled to get the
lasting quality artiicially. This he
accomplisnes with musk. In fact, musk
is one Of the most essential as we'll as
most costly materials used in the manu-
facture of perfumery, and could not we'll
be dispensed with. It must be used
sparingly, however, as it has powerful
medicinal properties. Too much of it
will induce headache and cause nervous
prostration.
Musk is secretion derived from an
animal-the musk deer. This secretion
is anything but pleasant to smell in its
crude state. It is impossible to associate
such a foul odor with the fragrant smell
of distilled perfume. But it is only one
OF the many peculiarities of nature.
The musk deer inhabits the great
mountain ranges of Central Asia. It is
a pretty creature about three feet long
and standing two feet high. The head
is small, the ears long and erect, and it
has an expression almost as melting as
an ordinary deer. The male has 1.-TWO
tusks about the size of goose quilts
which protrude three inches from either
side of the upper jaw. The animal is
covered with thick, dark fur. The
secretion for which the deer is priced
occurs only with the males. It is found
in little sac or pouch placed between
the flesh and the skin. This sac is
composed Of several layers of thin
membrane in which the musk is confined.
There is an oritice outward, but no visible
opening on the side next tha body.
The deer is exceedingly retired in its
habits, remaining in hiding by day and
doing its roaming by night. 1t is hard
to capture, and gives the small army OF
hunters who are devoted to the sport for
pecuniary reasons some perilous runs.
Steep precipices and jagged crags are its
favorite retreats. As a jumper it is
simply immense. 1t thinks nothing OF
clearing distance of sixty feet on a
slight slope. But the danger to the
huntsman does not lie here. It exists in
the animal itself. The odor of musk
which envelopes the deer and fills the
atmosphere is SO strong that it causes
hemorrhages and even death when
breathed. The hunters, mostly China
men, cover the lower portion of theil
faces with thick cloth as I precautior
against this danger. But even thai
doesn't save them at times The deel
suffer the oftenest, however. Wher
killed the little sacs or pods, as they ar,
called in the trade, are cut of and dried
This is the only preparation necessary
for market.
The pods weigh about an ounce an6
are worth $40. They are received in this
country packed in little lead-lined, silk
covered boxes. and each pod is sepa
rately wrapped up in bright colored
paper protusely inscribed with Chimes,
hieroglyphics.
Another expensive ingredient needed
in the manufacture Of perfume Il ottal
Of roses. It comes in copper canteeni
which hold about twenty ounces. They
are valued at 800 apiece.
The present supply Of cttar il chiefly
derived from small tract Of country on
the southern side Of the Balkan Noun
tains, in the Turkish province Of Rou'
melia. The principal seat Of the trade
is the town Of Kizanlik, and the damasl
rose is the flower grown. The peasants
plant it in rows in gardens and fields
During the month Of May the flowers ar
gathered by boys and girls in sacks and
close baskets. The flowers are dali,
..A \ y.-t