Morning journal and courier., 1892-06-03
VIM. NELLY x CO.
Our New York Letter.

Our New York Letter.
 A dear old bachelor-s society beau who had seen the charms of many fair ,elles blossom to maturity, used to say hat in all his social career he never saw a company indoors or out where the girl in @ red gown" was absent. Some times shed come so late that he would think for once she WAS not invited, but, before the fete was ended, the dashing fa- mingo was sure to appear.
 This perennial rosy damsel will not be solitary exception this seasan. Red is and many 8 lassie will be seen in the city and at the seashore and | mountains clad all in red, even to her | dainty slippers. "What red slippers, tool' Yes, and cunning ones. with red heels and with sharp pointed toes, that will show out coquettishly from under the coral wool crepon or the scarlet India silk dress. Pretty wash goods, India and Japanese Silks, Crepe de Chine, and the soft cling ing silk and wool crepon are the fabrics most in style for red costumes.
 The shades range from the rich cardinal to the bright new and coral red.
 In the wool goods the plain colors are mostly used, but in the other fabrics the plain scarlet or turkey-red grounds are re- heved by polka dots and other small fig ures in black
 A coral China silk, with selt-colored brocaded stars or trailing design, makes an exquisite evening dress for summer hops, as the satin figures catch and reflect the rays of light with pleasing effect. The same may be said of this class of dress silks in all the lighter shades of msuve, pink, blue, green and canary.
 Fashionable as red is, no lady should wear it-especislly in & compiete costume, unless she is positively certain that the color will be becoming to her. It is really astonishing how many shoppers are igno- rant of the colors and styles best suited to their complexion and figures.
 One French rule is, that if the complex ion is inclined to be rosy, the red must be below the face, as in & dress, & mantle or e necktie but if the countensnce is pale. the red must be in the headwear. By this rule, a complete red costume should be worn only by lady of medium | color.
 
 Glsce effects give leeway for exquisite combinations of shades and colors. The changesble features promise to be even more prominent in the fall than now. The latest Paris fabric Is changeabls Crepe BengAline. The shades of grey, with rose and tan with scarlet, are beauti full. A prettier costume need not be de sired than a light tan summer serge trimmed with this rich, changing mate rial in the scarlet and tan. Another com bination that will win admiration is l. mode serge, with a darker shade of mod, and mauve crepe bengaline. These are no expensive costumes, as 6 good summer serge, A. inches wide, can be obtained fo 75c to s1.00 a yard, and the tr;mminl goods is g inches wide and only sl.75 yard.
 The glace taffetas are welcome chang from black for lining grenadine and lac dresses, ss they give a shimmering effec now 60 popular. Black lace costume over these irrideecent silks that reflect
 different shade with every movement o the wearer, are really fascinating especial ly when supplemented by pretty blscl or light tan wrap lined with a silk, whicl also has more or less of the chsrmiu . gloss or changing effect harmonizing wit
 the shades of the lace costume.
 As rule, all women love soft material. , which is one reason that India silks ar
 such fsvorites. Surely they make th , coolest dress for midsummer, and are, i fact, the best all the year round dresse
 yet found. They do not wrinkle if o |, good quality. They show most exquisit
 colors and printed designs. Black ground
 are ahead of all others, cream and deli . cate grey following. The most taking de
 signs are single blossoms, flower spray
 and bow knot ribbon effects. A dressy . yet quiet and refined costume, is blacl
 India silk with a small far-apart whit
 figure trimmed with @ good quality O Chantilly lace, lined with flat Valen ciennes lace, giving 8 soft black and whit effect. The edge of the white lace jus shows above the black, with hair line O white. These two faces go around tn neck with slight but necessarily fullness and down each side of the front of tn basque, narrowing at the waist line, ant then broadening full width to the bottom of basque. They are headed by guimI of fine cut jets in a wavy design.
 The front of the skirt has long apror drspery with a deep fall of the Chantill, over triie narrower Valenciennes lsce headed by the jet guimp interspsced witt cut jet bow-knots. The slightly shaped in-front-ben skirt with a medium length train is the latest Paris fashion. By tn, way, the train has lost its muddy terroi since the notion counter has taught us the value of dress-lifters, that will instant ly raise and hold all extra length of skirt to proper altitude. A sweet old grandms says that when she was young and train. were fashionable, few steel purse-rings and three yards of ribbon or braid accom-. plished the same purpose. She sewed the rings in semi-circle on the line at the back, ranging them up to the skirt band in front. She then strung the ribbon through the rings, bringing it out in front by means of two needle-worked eyelets in the band. A ring sewed on the ends oi the ribbon prevented it from dipping, and also helped her to find it easily. When the train was to be raised, she merely pulled the ribbon forward and tied it in front, and the skirt was secure. What prevents this sged arrangement from working now. if the patent dress filters are not at hsndi
 It is affirmed that a fast red-dye has been discovered. Then, indeed, will ''fAst black" hosiery find a rival in fast red 60 soon as the ladies are sure that the pretty scarlet or cardinal hose will not stain the pretty white feet they cover. The stock | ings and shoes should match to a nicety. If you see a woman suddenly dive into the