The Maryville times. (Maryville, Tenn.) 1884-1944, 1892-01-06
TAILOR GOWNS.
Cloths In Favor for Winter Costumes
Short skirts and Belted Bodices.

Cloths in Favor for Winter Costumes
Short skirts and Belted Bodices.
Smooth-faced cloths, more costly than
they have been at previous seasons. are
used by tailors for elaborate gowns.
They come in very light shades of tan,
reseda, blue, and rose, and are com
bined with fleecy cloths in omber stripes
on ground the color of the plain cloth.
Soft, pliable camels-hair stuffs in wide
diagonals, and also fancifully woven in
feather designs, in crossbars of diamond
shape, and in waved and chevron stripes
are liked for darker tailor-made gowns
in Stanley brown, stone colors, navy
blue, and in blue black as well as Jet
black. Besides these are rough bour-
rettes, illuminated at intervals with
bright threads, and many feecy stuffs
that are used for entire gowns with
the exception of vest or belt of
leather. A great deal of velvet is used
in combination with cloths, and the
favorite trimmings are braiding and
fur.
Tailors will again make a stand in
favor of short skirts that escape the
ground for all walking dresses Some
of these shortened skirts hare seams
piped with velvet GALLON, or fur,
while others are in the new widened
shapes, less scant at the top than for
merly, and with plaits in the back set
in clusters at the belt, or in a broad
box plat that flares gradually wider to
the foot, Elastic straps hold the plaits
in place.
Belted waists with yoles and plas-
irons are in as great favor with tailors
as with the dressma1ers. They also
show princesse gowns, some fastened
in the back, Others with coat fronts,
and still others crossing diagonally.
But, above all else. they make the
legitimate tailor bodice, the coat in all
its varieties, as the long-tail coat, the
short French coat, the becoming shape
with corselet front and coat back, and
the simple and familiar riding-habit
bodice, which is always in favor for
morning and travelling dresses. Sleeves
of moderate fulness at the top and
closely buttoned on the forearm are
preferred for most tailor gowns.
A smooth cloth gown of chataignc
brown has a pointed corselet front but.
toned on the left, with guimpe and col
lar cut all in one of pink and brown.
striped cloth. The simple sleeves are
of plain pink cloth, with deep striped
cuffs. The French skirt of brown cloth
is entered by slit on the left trimmed
with buttons, and there is wide
striped border around the foot. Velvet
bodices are much used with chevron-
striped wool skirts. notably one of
mole-slIin-colored velvet made as a
short French coat with box-plaited
back. The front opens on smooth
vest of blue wool, with the pointed
chevron stripes in mole-color. All the
edges of the coat are bound with Per.
sian lamb-skin. The sleeves are of the
wool, also the skirt, which is straight
in front, the stripes meeting in deer
VS., while the great breadth of the back
is laid in triple box plat that flares
in bell shape. Such gowns are also
made with a coat of green velvet, and a
wool skirt of black with green ehev.
rons. Princesse gowns of black cam
els-hair are braided with black and
gold to represent a yoke, girdle, and
pointed hip pieces, and are given full
ness in the back of the skirt by velve,
breadths that make slight de:ni.train
-uarpers Bazaar.