The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1892-11-19
TIL C. HON {.
MENDING MEMS CLOTHES.

To refine coat sleeve rip out the old
Innings; press in shape and cut new ones
by them; a smooth surface of satin OF
farmers satin saves wear and tear of tenn
per and sleeves. If the sleeves are only
beginning to fray on the under side of the
wrists, they may be refreshed by working
closely around buttonhole stitch with
''twist'' to match, but if past this, cut
off the hem or facing where it is frayed,
and sew together again on the ma
chine, which will only shorten the sleeve
by narrow seam. Basic the facing care
fully in place, turn the sleeve wrong side
out, and steam-press by laying wet
cloth over it and pressing with all your
weight on a heavy hot iron. Ii one ap-
plication does not make them fiat enough
wet the cloth again and repeat. Then
spread over it one thickness of dry mus
lin and iron till dry. A sleeve ironing
board is a great convenience for this and
is easily made. Seam up the Innings on
the wrong side and put them in, telling
neatly on the coat side of the seam, as
they Slip on more easily than when sep
arate binding is put over the seam.
Blind-stitch them around the facing
at the hand.
If buttons have torn off bringing bit
of the cloth with them, lay piece OF
cloth on the wrong side, matching per-
fectly stripe OF diagonal and fell around
with stitches that do not go through:
Blind-stitch around on the right side and
steam-press well. then sew on the button
and it will not be noticed. Do not let
knot or stitches show Oh the inside OF the
coat as they are not ornamental when 1T
is thrown open. Do not knot the thread,
but draw the end between lining and out
side, and pass the needle through the
button, then through the outside cloth
and interlining only. Work over the but
tonholes before they are badly worn or
torn out of shape. If pockets are worn,
mend before money or valuables slip
through them Rip the lining around the
bottom to get at them; cut off the bad
places, and sew on stout pieces of the ex-
act size, allowing for seams. When the
corners are torn loose from the coat, fasten
them to strong stays on the under side
and press very fiat, then stitch down with
silk on the right side following the old
line of stitching. Neatness is better than
dispatch in this sort of work, and regular
tailor pressing is an essential part. To
wind up give a good brushing, sponge off
greasy or shiny places with ammonia and
water, give final press where needed
and you will be pleased with your job.
If the seats or knees of trousers are
only worn thin, lay piece of cloth under
fell in place Without allowing the stitch
es to come through, turn on right side,
darn and press. If worn through, rip at
both seams, cut out the worn part
straight across, lay it straight on the
new cloth and cut out byit allowing
the width of two seams at top and bot
tom. Sew it in on the machine, match
ing carefully, press open seams well, sew
up the seams again, open and press
them. When worn around the bottom,
repair like the sleeves of the coat. They
can be greatly freshened in appearance
by laying the side seams together so as
to get the exact middle of the front,
then pressing straight fold in them.
WHEN MEAT is DONE.
The orthodox rule for the cooking of
meat, fish and fowls is to allow quarter
of an hour to every pound; yet this
receipt needs to be mixed with brains.
With regard to the why and the how
of the matter: Some families like rare,
others well-done meats; again, joint
may be unusually thick, or remarkably
thin; again, full-grown and mature
meats, such as beef and mutton, are best
with led gravy oozing from them while
immature or white meats, such as lamb,
veal, pork, etc, are absolutely dangerous
unless done through to the bone. A
gooD rule is to allow II to Is minutes &C
cording to the taste of the family and
the thickness of the joint, for the cook
ing of every pound of beef and mutton;
Is to IS minutes for the cooking of every
pound of pork, veal, lamb, ham, bacon,
fish and every kind of fowl. Accidents
happen, however. The oven may be too
hot or too cool, the fire too slow, and
what not, so cook should learn to
know by the appearance OF the meat it.
self when it is sufficiently cooked. How
can this be done? By carefully observing
the appearance of the meat around the
centre bone or bones. If the learner be in
doubt the blade of knife can be run in
about half an inch to the bone, and the
meat slightly raised and examined for
moment or two. After one or two trials
this will be found to be an infallible
method. It is quite right that next to
the bone beef and mutton should be red
and Juicy. but if the beef be blue or the
mutton has that strange raw look pecul-
lar to mutton that has just felt the heat
of the fire, the joint needs little more
cooking; while the meats should be white
even to the bone, with the exception,
perhaps oflamb, which many people pre-
fer with little pinky juice oozing
through.-Good Housekeeping
A PERFECT WAIST.
Modistes have at lastperfected waist
which has no seams except those on the
shoulders, and these are so overlaid by
velvet, of which a yoke is made, that
they are entirely hidden. The closing is
down the middle of the front, and the
aatelial, usually serge, is taken bias and
aoth across the back and under the
,s, then slightly pleatea at the waist
'front.' below a deep yoke of velvet
gigot sleeves have but single seam,
nd this is covered with velvet roll or
galoon. The serge skirt is cut in sin
gle piece, the great width of the fabric
permitting the selvage to be at the top
and at bottom, and the only seam may
be directly in front, where it is sloped
slightly, or else far back on the left side,
L