The record-union., 1892-01-16
WAKEMAN'S WANDERINGS.
He Continues His Interesting
Tramp Across Portugal.
Incidents of the Road and DISGUISE
ton on Donkeys - Charming Pen
Pictures of Solemn Professionals,
Ancient Inns and Portuguese Conn
try Homes.
BEJA Portugap, Dec. %, 1891

Especial Correspondence of the RECORD
UNION. Copyright, 1921
BEJA tPortugaI, Dec. %, 1891.
We came to ancient Evora, where are
found the most striking Roman remains
in Portugal, by rail. But I can never for
get the look OF anguish and commisera-
ton which came over the face of Dobrado,
my good Gallegan guide and servant, as
announced that henceforth our journey
was to be pursued on foot. The honest
fellow finally wept so copiously that a
compromise was effected upon donkeys
as far as Beja, when, should he not wish
to accompany me on foot, he was to return
TO Lisbon.
The genuine grief of Dobrado drew my
attention to two facts of some importance
TO travellers in Portugal. One is that such
firm suspicion of the character of any one
groveling enough to travel on foot is so
fixed and prefxed in the Portuguese
mind, that the sentimental tramps labor
under the greatest possible disadvantage.
The humblest farmer is attended by his
still humber servant; and there is not a
peasant in the entire kingdom so desper-
ately impoverished as to be without this
patient beast of burden.
The other stubborn fact is the Portu
guese donkey itself, and the variety of
uses to which the little animal is put.
Thousands Of them can be found in all
the larger cities, doing all manner OF
labor and service. Every human being
in the country districts seems to possess
from one to a score. In front of every
church, in every praca or square, and
huddledAin every crumbling archway,
are dozens and scores, the most Of them
accompanied by barefooted driver with
an iron-pointed gOad as long as a hoe
handle, caparisoned with rope around
its shaggy neck, in lieu of halter or
bride, and huge wooden saddle with
upturned wooden yokes at the front and
back.
You do not sit astride these little beasts
You ride them something as you do the
wild and vaulting Irish jaunting-car, sit
ting sideways with your legs dangling
over the dOnkey's right side, and, in mo-
ments OF peril with your two hands vio-
lently clutching the front yoke. You
will make sad business of it if you I'M
dertake rigid and stately posture; but
observing the native Portuguese doubled
upon his donkey into the form of print
er's reversed interrogation, and faith
fully copying his riding, which is chiefly
upon the under sides Of the knee joints,
you may always do almost as well as to
walk.
They are brought into requisition Tor
the most triting journeys. The padre
viii not walk rod if his own or any
other PERSONS donkey is within call. The
goatherd on the mountains has him for
an inseparable companion. The bull
herders who care for the black bulls
which are bred and furnished for bull
fighting at Lisbon and Oporto, which, by
the way, is not at all like the repulsive
Spanish butchery, but is veritable skill
and sport combined, are always found
with more donkeys than bulls. If a
Sheep-herder's ground is shifted but half
mile, all the preparations for long
journey are made and the shepherd rides
in state to his new station among the
rocks. So if peasant laborer is engaged
for days service on an adjoining farm
If he has occasion to go from one field to
another, or if women in the country wish
bit Of gossip at the next cabin or cross
roads, each sets out with boundless prep
aration, arrives as from ten days pill
grimage, and giving the donkey kick
or whack in admonition of Self-support,
never recalls so trihing a matter as the
beast until it is wanted for the return
trip. Then all any one has to do to get
his donkey is to express wish for it. A
horde of lads, whooping and bowling,
hunt him, capture him and rush him to
his owner in a perfect hurricane of dust,
goads and tiorid Portuguese maledic-
tons, when his duties are demurely
and faithfully resumed.
Other extraordinary ways in which the
donkey is here employed were illustrated
on our way from Evora to Beta, The
roads seemed constantly filled with them.
Here is procession ridden by peasant
women on their way to Evora with all
manner of country produce swaying from
the wooden saddle-yokes. a lone donkey
laden with water-casks plods along with
out companion or driver, sent from some
to h is, off, ,ox aIo1
way, and with pitiful look of response
bility in his gray old face. Here comes a
bevy completely hidden by piles of corn
leaves heaped so high that the stacks ap-
pear to be TREMENDOUSLY waltzing into
Evora on invisible legs. Bells iangle in
q muffied way beneath the fodder, and
barefooted lads prod the bobbing mys-
teries viciously. Again a score come
tripping and mlncing along a slender
pathway beneath huge wall of rock, la
den with rye and corn in casks and pan
jers. Two are met sustaining a strong
beam across their backs, and to this beam
a tree trunk, ready for manufacture into
lumber in the city, is attached for convey
ance in this outlandish way.
But the oldest burden of all was over
taken as we were nearing Beia-having
wended our way past fountains where
donkeys, peasants and water-carriers all
i1oltered TO bray, babble and gossip, over
hills, down valleys, past roadside shrines,
and through half dozen struggling,
sleepy villages. Twas patient, having
met with some accident with which vii
lage skill was unable to COPE being
transported to ida Misericordia" at Beta,
where surgical operation must be per-
formed. Two timbers were fastened
lengthwise along the donkeys' backs.
From the ends of these other timbers ex-
tended across from back to back, securely
fastened with thongs, and from the latter,
ropes depended, sustaining rude ham,
hook of pine slaves, which We're covered
with the stout linen woven by the peas
antry. The sufferer, smoking a cigar
with great relish and consciousness of his
temporary importance, was thus being
quite comfortably borne to the hospital,
accompanied by a large delegation of
neighbors and relatives, all upon dom
keys and all prompted by their sympa-
thetic natures to continually give express
sion to grieyous meanings and lamenta-
tions.
On the way many interesting expe-
rlences and incidents illustrative OF the
customs of the country and the charac-
teristics of the people were enjoyed Near
one little hamlet, named, think, Wanna,
we met the procession of 'Nosso SEN
hOr," as the host or last sacrament to the
dying is called. We dismounted from
our donkeys and knelt with the peasants
about us as the solemn procession went
by. 1t was preceded by villagers, who
scattered aromatic leaves in the road be-
fore 1t. white-frocked acolyte was in
advance tolling strange toned bell in
measured strokes. The priest, clad in a
gorgeous chasuble, walking under red
silk canopy, held in its place by four
supporting youths, followed. He bore in
his hand silver vessel containing the
sacred emblem of consolation. At his
side marched white surpliced choristers
and acolytes carrying censers; following