The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1892-01-17
MAKING THE FREE LUNCHES.
MOUATdIHs or BEEF AVID DROrEs
OF Pos GITEE AWfT
How the Supplying Of Lunch Table. n,
Gates and Balloons Has Grown iuto .
Great Businese-.A LOOK at tho Look Ia

or even In prohibition. might have found
pleasure and profit In Visiting a number ot
New York's drinking places OF all degree. on
Friday. the first day OF this new year. He would
have found that eating has come to DO con.
sidcred at least as necessary a. drinking. and
that the unwholesone old New York custom ri
standing In front OF high counter and pour
ing down glass after glass OF exciting Huid,
with scarcely pause TOR breath. is no longer
-, od form In the places where such thInys
once were done. lie would have been pleased
to see that the lunch table had fully
as many customers a. the bar. and
that the viands there vet forth we're 50
attractive In character aud appearance that
few visitors went out without paying II visit
he would have been pleased also to notice that
two able allies OF the tenn perance cause havs
sprung UP and have stationed themselves 10
every bar to help do bstsle with what he il In
the habit OF calling tho rum lend-" The,,
allies are humble. bet they do great TEMPER.
ance work. They ars the steatninG beef tea
and the savory clam jrioe. both sold now over
almost every bar In the city. and both n. freely
and nearly as frequently called for as any
other rcfresllment. They are the havens u
refuge for those who drink. beca use they
would not be thought rnSociable. but who do
not care for stimulant&
The gorgeous lunches that San Prapciseo
and New Orleans drinking places set before
their customers every day It Was long the -u.-
tom To pre- pare IN New York only on Christmas
and New Years bay. But times have .chans.,..
and il this city ths vel! spread lunch table Is
now the twin brother 81 the gorgeous bar. Re
who drinks may eat and in many eases h" who
does not drink eats all the more. III. Chrst.
mas and New Years feasts are still a l!,te
better than those OF ordinary days. but the
ed:t%e halidas sprs.d 'Nf Tss ' ash II
broken crackers. witt. It's famons ally. tho
q 81 nov. ,s:
more expensive places, but salads and hUt
stews olives pickles. cold %satH brad
5 'R aSd i ior Il:
Ten years ago It WAS next to. iMpossihI. for
adrnkihE saloon unconnected with hotel OF
day. Il coaId Be- done only IN one Of q t%a w e
Of which the first was too expensive. and the
second too troublesome, The. saloon keeper
lived over his piace.". But as SUBSTANTIAL
To- be demand for them in saloons OF nearly
all classes. there came q supply also. which
has gradually increased and i'm proved from
his, lunch table hiled on Tuesday morning
lunches originated almost accidentally with
ss asd ago. sna n s 81. Il,
entire business consisted 0, delivering on.
round ct raw corned beef to one saloon every
SSa ass and lhs una
but it furnished the idea to the head Of tie
mnnd in this quarter. and he made de-
ps5tTent ~, Of it put II appliances e.
head men to work to build up a new branch of
reckon rs h.. and 20 well dld The snpleyee DO hi,
An important business by itself. How impor-
tant. may be Judged from the fact that more
every day. that nearly a thousand cooked and
ornSmented" young pigs were sent out in
san hes ans
It will be c2nsolatIon to free lunch yotaries
meats TO be had 10 the mari st: that they arc
cred wrapped in snowy cloths. as clean rs the
ish that t, ne to private table
he found Himself in :. moment he eS
& D DS!S "a sPa On %fSs ssd III
ing in rows and piled in tiers TO the ceiling.
He was courteously shown over the establish
ing to conceal. for everything was sweet and
clean and the entire place as neatly Kept a.
From tho ground floor where great parcels
other great parcels were onstaltly departing.
eeih9 weighed and hustled OF! to make room
lor more. spiral iron stairway led TO the
second story. Here. in the middle OF big
room. $1,000 a TANK SIX or eight feet square.
and perhaps five feet deep; In this tank the
meats are cooked. one kind at a time. and the
tunk carefully was ned and secured after each
cooking. And such cooking! The cook In
ms white cap and white apron explained how.
by the turning OF handle. he could have tho
wafer cnlu. lukewarEi: simmerlng. or boiling.
Just as ne desired. With the cleanest OF pot
Sticks he stirred tho stcaming mass and
brought to light scores. perhaps hundreds. OF
great rounds or beef. any one OF them big
enough TO supply moderate family for week:
On three sides OF the room were broad and
nigh tables. and in front Of these tables thirty
OF torty men were At work. They worked with
strong cords ana big rounds OF beef. and one OF
the tables was covered with two piles Of beef
--,one pile in it's natural shape. waiting to to
tlrI. tho other pile already wrapped and wound
wlth the cord, III the pieces were symIYetr-
cally rounded ike great hams. and ready for
the boiling tank, This winding is to keep the
another room other workmen were handling
heaps of hams in tn. same, way: and there
we're immense trays filled with pigs feet. and
other trays 81 the various kinds OF sausases.
some cooked. some ready for the cooking,
Up another flight of iron stairs to tho third
story aud the decorating department was
r;n taS. hero scores OF little pigs aarnngly