Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-02-20
fair to look upon and truly good to find and
Aweird and Grotesque Picture.

|
esqueness that is often weird and grotesque
Every structure possesses in some portion
| and frequently in the most unexpected posi-
| tion, some wonderful and ornate ornamental
| tion. Tiny squares with whipping fount
aims are set in all sorts of odd corners. q
huge church may tower on one side
of each of these. AT corner may
stand or project from curiou:
and seemingly unnecessary wall, 8
massive carved facade or gargoyle from
which the water is endlessly flowing. Al
another side mass of vines and verdure,
capped to the sight by far domes or spires,
is only visible. Outjutting at another spot,
the angle of some huge building seems to
have pushed its way half across the plaza
and with its galleries, balconies and tre-
mendous overreaching roof is ready to pitch
headlong into the open space beneath
While another sunny side shows only roof
OF red tiles sloping like a tent cover, un-
pierced by single aperture, from an inter-
minable height wholly to the edge of a
stone cloister-like porch beneath.
In all open spaces are palm trees. And
these, rising from courts, lifting their
spreading fronds high above roots from
darkened thoroughfares, often leaning, like
the tower of Pisa, out of quaint old courts,
and here and there being preserved by an
lend dreamtul, mystic, almost lonesome
and pathetic coloring to every massing of
structures upon which the eye may rest
The Palm a Lonely Emblem.
To me, the palm, whether 1 have seen it
in Southern Spain, in Sicily, in Morocco, in
Algeria, in Cuba, or here in Palma, whose
name had its origin in the former extraor-
dinary number of palm trees upon the
island hos aluors baaD amb1nIn of
dolorous isolation and inexpressible loneli-
ness. 1t hints of the camel, the Bedouin,
the desert. In art, in story, in fact, it ever
suggests the endless hopelessness and i'm
FEASIBILITY of the barriers between the races
that subsist upon and rest beneath it, and
those who know and love the maple beech
and oak
1t is a city of steep ascents and ill-paved
streets. but OF witching old bits of curious
architecture, and perhaps as lovely and
splendid interiors as any Moorish or semi
Moorish city can show. All the houses re-
tain features of Moorish taste and evidences
OF medieval forms of habitation and living.
They are not higher than three or four
stories at best More have but the ground
floor with an upper one, and an attic called
a porcho. Invariably the entradas to the
interior are studies in carved arabesques
and fanciful Moorish designs. Balconies
are as universal and as huge or as lace-like
and fragile as in Granada or Seville. A
marked popularity of all structures is their
huge projecting roofs, spread out into pent-
houses and frequently most fascinatingly
worked out and decorated. And the lowliest
home in all Palma is charming in its patio
or court-that lovellest of all interior ar
around which Moslem or Chris
tan home can be built.
A Place of Rare Beauty.
Every one of these courts is a place of
beauty, sunshine and song. In every one
there is melodic sound of water from run
ming jetty or fountain. In every one
whether glittering with slender marble
columns and daintily wrought arches or
softened in tones with mossy stone and
,rumbling tiles, there are waving ferns and
lowers. Vines Chamber wantonly over en-
arch and balustrade. The alcobas
If all living in these abodes are within the |
sound of friendly calling voice. And not |
'ne is without birds OF gay plumage and |
birds with endless songs. I often wonder |
Why the rich of our own land do not build |
heir homes like these. A dome of glass
instead of the blue Mediterranean sky, is
ike hangings and whitening shadow-places
rom your stuffy homes, and learn to live in
he life-giving light like the Latin and the
Moor. Put your great New England fire.
,laces opposite your arched entrances: and
make of these sunlit open courts places of
'eauty, lightsomeness, melody and home
ide joy.
Only when the feast and professional
avs come is Palma gay and brilliant city.
vt all other times it is sunny, restful, slum-
'erous and almost silent Its street folk
re the same as of any other southern Span
sh city. There is greater content here No
me is in hurry. Among the lowly folk
here is less excitability; greater good
ature, and the latter is of the gentle not
# the uproarious sort Here, as in Madrid,
S your lechero or milkman, who drives his
ows in from the country and milks for you
,efore your door. The dulcero or seller of
weets, with his songful call by day and
lis tinkling bells by night, is here. The
ochero or cabman, with comfortable land
ulet and pretty diligence, will serve you
without guile. The mercanchfste
r notion peddler, the aquador or water
eller, the regatero or huckster, who has
he sociable habit of entering shop or home
18th his donkeys and paniers, the zapatero
r archway shoemaker, and the latonero or
mixer, whom 1 found to be Spanish Gipsy,
re all here in their lazy, pleasant and pict-
rescue ways.
All Days Alike in Palma.
By day Palma seems to the stranger to be
experiencing something like a
oft dreamful buzz of activity in all human
faiars. Perhaps it is the reaction after
ome great business tension, YOU ruminate. |
ut no; each day is as the day before it. |
is gently done No one is astir
efore ten in the morning. Then the pretty
arket attracts beyies of beautiful women
nd maids. This is followed by the noon
me siesta. The shops are bright and
rilliant until evening; but everything is
uiet and restful within. In the evening
le cafes are ablaze with light; the parks
nd passeos are thronged with gay -cabal-
.ros and lovely senoritas Still there is a
ush and tranquility in all sounds and
,emingS. As the night advances, in
very quarter of the olden CITY
heard the mandolin and. guitar, tremu-
'us, pathetic, sweet; like the echo of real
,nes rather than the vibrant notes them
lives. Zephyrus. breezes pulse from
fries shores. The shipping rocks gently
pom the star-mlrroring bay. Go where
ou will, all is life until long after mid !
light, but tender and subdued as if the ;
ltchlngs OF the tropic airs lulled to repose
ct withheld from sleep. And at last as the
OF the fortresses upon the heights
ave chanted answers to their challengers |
18th: 'Ave Maria Purisima!-La una, V
do sereno" you seek your couch in sweet |
Id Palma of the Isles, your heart giving
ack the centinela's answer that "An is
ell!' EDGAR l.. WAKEMAN
BUEDETTE gives some Washington |
irthday advice in THE DISPATCH to-
orrow
al HAVE been afflicted with an affection of the