The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1892-06-18
Icorrrlon1. lsge. nY KpoARr. wAkEaAS.l

IcorYrloIrr, 1877. BY EDoAR1- wAKENAXl
spteiul Correspondence Of ne IuiClligeHeer
TRURO, CoRSw4LL, June A. Almost
until to-day, as time is measured, Corn
wall has been toathe remainder OF Eng
land a yeritablo terra iacognitG, "wcst
Barbary" it was contemptuously called
to describe its uncannincss, ito suppos'
ed ignorance and its popularity accred-
tied semi-barbarism. What weird and
desolate Connamara, in 1roiaud's wild
west, is and has always been 10 the
Green Isle, this Scared and ragged Pc
ninsula has been to England.
OF Its 100000 souls, One-tenth, from
youth to death, in darkness pick and
blast in shit and drift beneath itswtpd-
swept moor. Until q century since q
distinct language, the Cornubian Celtic,
was spoken, taught and preached. To
day in some OF the larger towns "the
pusest English spoken" is said to pre-
vail; but again to-day not league
from these towns, among ttsher-tolks,
miners and peasants, an ordinary Eng
li-hman or American can scarcely III.
derstand word uttered. Yot here IRE
life and scene Of the greatest fGscina-
ton; both life and scene OF simplicity,
beauty and grandeur; while romance
and legend glow wondrously in every
tor coiube and stream; romance and
legend the Oldest and most winsomc in
all England. Here lived, or were born
to deathless legend, Arthur, LNuncelot
and Guineverc, and the brave old Round
Table knights.
1t is IL curious shaped bit OF iand, this
rugged old Cornwall. Its geographic
contour suggests tho strange silhouette
OF some couchant gigantic mastitt, or
hugo wild beast, 1t is easy to SEQ in its
sowthernmost outreaching, its two pow
erlul fore feet. In its northern coast
limo will he found its braced and hrls'
Ting back. In its most northern pro.
lection will be seen an erect and defiant
tail. In its eastern Devonshirc bound;
airy are its massive launches anu hlnd
feet wcdged against the eternal granite
OF Devon. And its further most sea-
split, ocean-battling promontory, is the
open mouth Of the stone leylathan, set
Fayagoly towards the seething scilly
Isles, forever dashed with spume and
funle Of its interminahle battle with
the Atlantic.
Were YOU TO stand, as / have done,
on Hensbarrow, one OF its drear and
highest peaksp you could see smiling
Devon to the east; almost to Lands
End, it's farthest westward wall; to Liz
ards Heaa its remotest southern head.
land; across its entire reach Of hills and
moorlands, far out upon st. Georges
Channel to the northwest; and over
the white sails OF fisher and coaster to
the southeast, even to the dim como
Of that most wondrous Of all mariners
beacons, the splendid Eddystone light
house.
But standing on TINT point little else
than apparent desolation meets the eye:
The moorlands stretch dolorously US II
in boundless Loneliness. The tors or
hills are bleak and bare. The whole
face Of nature seems torn and SCARED as
II py tremendous elemental struggles.
Yet all these caverns and chasms which
disfipure ii were made by the hand OF
man. Its granite, shale and slate hide
copper tin and iron. For more than
1900 wears itssurface has been cleft and
lis depths gored and bored until Its face
il pitted rs il with extinct volcanoes,
whose bases were honeycombed, some
times to a miles depth, and, often later
ally, SO far outward beneath the ocean
that its very shell was cracked and
broken, until, TO prevent the sea drop.
ping through, the bottom was stuffed
and plugged and soldered like a leaky
old basin.
This is what you will sec and feel and
know among the downs and tors along
the rocky backbone OF Cornwall. But
along the north coast, in summer, and
everywhere upon the south coast in
summer, and nearly all winter, are
neyer-ending surprises OF scenic beauty.
Indeed, the entire south English and
Irish coasts arc almost semi-tropic
lands, Semi-tropic bits Of land surely
can beiound.. for have seen at Bourne
meuth, Mt Torquay and at Plymouth, IN
England. ut Truro, Falmouth and Per-
zanco in Cornwall, and ut YouGhal,
alongside Sir Walter Raleigh old home,
in ireland, roses in full bloom and
luxuriantly foliaged myrtle out Of
doors in mid.winter,
sLuMRERoUs BEAUTY.
Along thcway am leisurely tramp
inc. with the English Channel nearly
always in sight, are innumcrable Corn
ish valleys Of slumborous beauty. Tiny
burns and combs aro cut through'the
walls by the sen. Through every ont
limrid st-eams 90 singing and tumblinl
10 The ocean. Along the valley sides
arc white hamlets, or tho quaint ole
homes. the richN acres and tho sleek
herds Of the thrifty farmers OF Corn
wall.
Tramp these coast roads. but a mile
and you will suddenly stumble upon
these lovely ,vales-the steam, the
farms half hidden by generous foliage
dotting The sides far up tho con1De a a
eyo can reach here a rumbling mill
there nesting church; below you
onaint old village; beyond, the tiny
hoavon ssir.ei b. the homes OF fishers
ard speckled by odd old llshcrs cr:.tts
iur.her tide ploughing up between
massive heaven walls, or q stretch O
low.tido rock and drift; and at last thu
hrioht bluo sea. Beautiful scenes are
these for tho ego and hear.rmInd Z
dwell upon; hardly to DO tound II
such number and winsomeness any
whcro else upon all OF England's coast
lust before you pass from DcvonshirI
into Cornwall you will dad mostintens,
tlic English Suspicion that Cornish loll
arc sort Of barbariana. Tho LANDLORD
nj tho little inn where lodged IN Ply
month. though admitting that no ha,
-. I,.,.,oI thn lntnnP. commtaCrQt