Morning journal and courier., 1892-01-30
wAKEMAN,s wANDRRINGs.

wAKEMAN,s wANDERINGS. A Week in Morocco-InspiringS Scenes
 at the uediterranean.s Entrance
 Glowing Pen Pictures Of the shores
 Of two Contfnents-Landin at Ta n-
 aier-weird Night Experiences in
 the Ancient Moorish City.
 TANGIER, Morocco, Jan. II. To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
 At Tavira we had no difficulty in secur- ing passage in staunch cossting steamer plying between Lisbon and Cadiz. After a day in the latter, once the emporium of the world and still the most winsome and beautiful city of Spain, we sailed on & smaller vessel, little better than a ferry boat, for the African coast, touching for an hour at Tarifa, the southernmost city of continental Europe, but fifteen miles southwest of Gibraltar.
 In this less than one hundred miles from Cadiz there are innumerable scenes and memories of wondrous impressiveness. Cadiz itself was the Tarshish of Bible his tory, Juno's wondrous island, and the glo- nous Iberia of Anacreon and Homer. At the end of the fourth century it was the richest, most brilliant and most profigate city in the world. Then the Goths and the Arabs possessed it, the latter for five hundred years from the eighth century. when Alfonso the Learned retook it in 1262. What vision of riches and pillage comes with vanishing sight of the beauti- ful city, when its American treasure is re- membered. The old writers tell that in the one year of 1792 the gold and silver imported at Cadiz from America amounted to one hundred and twenty-five millions: and away back of this, when the English Lord Essex sacked and pillaged Csdiz, the booty amounted to forty great galleons and thirteen ships of war laden with American gold!
 In an hours time you have come abre st of Cape Trafalgar. Your steamers course is through the very waters where Nelson won his immortal victory over the com bined fleets of Gravina and Villeneuve. All the mighty paintings you have seen, all the majestic monuments to Nelson un- derneath whose shadows you have stood, all the thrilling prose and verse you have read upon this inspiring theme, fill and thrill your mind and heart, until the air is dimmed with smoke, the hoarse below ings of cannon deafen you, the sheets of flame from those two solid columns of war ships blind you, the shrieks of wounded and dying and the crashing of masts add to the conjured horror-all for an instant, may be; but no poet or painter has ever brought its glory and ssvagery to your comprehension so matchlessly as your own brief presence there.
 And now Tarifa is reached; Tarifa cele- brated of all cities of the Latin race for the fatal beauty of its women; Tarifa, where the besieging Moors put to death the son of Don Alfonso before his eyes in an attempt to effect the city's surrender; where mighty battles between the kings of Castile and Spain against the Moors were fought beneath it's walls; where once four thousand Roman sons came and took to themselves their pick of Spanish women; where the Berbers first met the dispirited armies of Roderick, last of the Goths; Ia rifa, with it's scores of towers and gates, layarynthine streets, balconies hidden be- hind masses of flowers, and its half-Span- | ish, half -Moorish scenes and life which taunt and tempt ravishingly to dallying and delay.
 From this point, as your course is set to the southwest for Tangier almost straight across the strait of Gibraltar, the scene on every hand is one of matchless beauty and grandeur. Back to the northwest stretch es the Spanish coast line to Trafalgar, low | lying along the sea, but with background | of undulating foothills, breaking into deep gorges, and capped by lofty sierras, | the whole checkered by vineyards and dot ted with cities and hamlets, in the dis | tance as white as flakes of snow. Back | across the waters to the northeast looms | gray old Gibraltar, line of fishing vii lsges, arsenals, quays and moles at its base like a slender ribbon of foam, its thou sands of threatening cannon above hidden and submitted by terraces bright and vines and gardens fair.
 | Before you is Africa, warm and glowing beneath a mid winter sun. Away to the southeast is the shadowy peak of Apes | hill at whose base Ceuta. A grand and diversified coast stretches westward, past as yet invisible Tangier, to Cape Spsrtel the northwesternmost point in Africa Portions of the coast are granoly precipi tous. Again great forests sweep from no ble heights into slumbrous valleys which | uuuulAlc eOllly lo lHc sra 1hc iEaNS dhN shades are strange. The green of the mid dle strait blends into a rosy puce towards land this into a brilliant blue further on and the coast line at the waters sdg, seems like thread of lustrous onyx Above this, brown; then purple; then em
 erald; and beyond, there is a glowing oi faint orange, as though the valleys palpa
 bly flung back the sunlight which fingered lovingly above. Beyond this. a line oi
 tender purple, jagged with feathery, misty
 fronds. This is where the Atlas Noun
 tains are And then between the noun
 tain passes and peaks and the sky is
 faint thread of saffrony pale pink, some
 thing like 8 gauge of lavender laid on {
 bank of roses That gleam of color flash
 es the mental vision to the vast Sahari
 and the far Soudan.
 Feasting with eager and selfish deligh
 upon the glorious shores of two continents
 had lost sight of honest Colorado; Do
 brado who was to have returned to hi
 place by the babbling fountains of Lisbon from Bejs, should I persist in trampinI
 thence to Tavira aud the sea; Colorado wht
 was now sworn servitor aud friend; Do
 brado broad of grin as Gargantus, and O
 beam as Quixote's no less faithful squire
 Colorado whom I found with lowerinl
 eyes and hideous face, as rapt ss I hat | been, scowling with unutterable hate a
 the fair land of the Moors. In his atti
 tude, looks, mutterings and unconsciou , gesticulations, increasing every moment ii l rapidity and intensity, the whole story O . the irrevocable revengefulness of Chris tian against Moslem and Moslem againf
 Christian was told. It was a theme fo poet; subject for artist;--Europe the in } placable foe of Africa; the Cross sgains the Crescent; incarnate hate, the ou 3 growth of incarnate love, burning to ann 7 hilate incarnate fanaticism; Christia
 savagery thirsting for the life of Mosler 6 barbarian.
 !. touched the Gallegan gently upon Il @ shoulder, and my eyes sought his inqui t l ;nolx He tremhled and WAS wnfullY co,