Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1892-02-27
WAKEMAN'S TRAVELS.
4 Delightful Tour Among the Pict-
uresque Balearic Islands.
SCENES In MAJoRCA'S CAPITAL.
The Grave, Sweet Water Carriers of Much
Prosecuted Race.
FINE PAIM-sTUDDED LAND OF PLENTY


PALMA, MAJoRCA, Feb. 10.-The three
principal islands of the Balearic group are,
in size and Importance respectively, Ma
iorca, Manorca and Iviza. The first is but
60 miles from east to west and SO miles from
north to south. Cabrera and other lesser
islets belong to the group, but these are
trifing in size, almost uninhabited and of
little general interest. The population OF
the islands now exceeds 100000 souls. Ma
iorca is by far the most beautiful of all the
islands, and as one at once falls in love
with her, her capital city, Palma, and all
her sunny-hearted folk, few who first land
in Palma's sunlit bay will care to seek ad-
venture here beyond Majorca's glowing
shores.
One of my first enthrallments here was
by the water-carriers of Palma. They are
not so naive as those of the Azores, so bold
as those of Italian cities, so voluptuous as
those of Lisbon, nor SO languorous-eyed and
petite as those of Grenada and Seville. But
I could not help thinking that here an artist
would find hundreds of perfect models for a
Rachel at the Well. Tall, 1.-THE, slender
but shapely maidens are these, and their
dress, carriage, features and ways constantly
increase ones admiration and interest
Had they been simply animal in their saucy
beauty, one study of one group at one
fountain would have answered even senti-
mental traveller.
From One Fountain to Another.
But for days L found myself, against all
apparent reason, drawn to this fountain
and that, and making all manner of mental
excuse for what my own judgment scourged
me with as an accusation of improperly.
Attempt as l might to study all other
lowly, become interested in the majestic
cathedral, or essay tramps into the interior,
back came to the fountains to contemplate
these fair maidens and endeavor to unravel
the strange spell they had cast upon me. In
the first place, ! never saw but one woman
whose unrivaled art gave her the perfect
carriage these women unconsciously own as
natures heritage. That woman was Sara
Bernhardt. Added to this was conscious
dignity and not coyish, but superb and
stately, modesty, which lent positive radi-
ance to every movement, gesture or look.
Their attire added rare charm to all else
Their tiny feet were encased in dainty slip
pers. A skirt OF loosely woven dark stuff
fell in close and graceful folds about their
long and shapely limbs Over this Law
short napkin-like apron, spotlessly white.
A dark bodice low at the neck displayed ex-
quisite shoulders, and its sleeves stopping
at the elbow where an edging of white was
seen, showed the lower half of beautiful
nodded arms. The head is bare, covered by
a wealth of hair coiled low and heavily in
the neck, giving in the sunlight the blue
black luster of the grape. The forehead
is strangely wide for the Latin type, and
the eyebrows which almost meet, have
tho 1nw xrida orch Tho auac ora loroa
luminous, melting, sad; and never were
seen eyelashes of such length and blackness
on other women. The nose is finely chiseled
and the nostrils are thin and have a per-
ceptible tremor An oval chin, dazzling
teeth, mouth that suggests the hot blood
of the South, chastened by endless re-
preston, with lips of crimson, complete a
face of Madonna like depth and feeling
This face looks out of a filmy white ker-
chief drawn close beneath the chin, with
points fastened with rose or a trife of
jewelry to the hair at either side of the
head; while its longest point covers the
neck and breast to the girdled waist below.
Groupings Like a Masters.
In professions of dozen to a score wend-
ing their way to and from, or when Ioiter-
ing beside, the fountains, they form group
ings against the quaint old walls beneath
the lonely palms, fit for Tadema's master
hand. Their burdens are never carried upon
their heads The bottom of the empty or
filled ever always rests upon the right hip,
the handle against the carriers breast, and
her half barred white arm is flung careIessly
around the vessel just below its mouth
All inquiries regarding these beautiful
water carriers of Palma brought from the
native population a shrug of the shoulder
with contemptuous smile and the sneer-
ing words,
LA Chueta!"
That meant ga little long-eared OWL"
could not understand why these radiant
maidens could have so offensive a name.
followed some OF them about the city and
then to their homes 1t brought me to a
a strange quarter where q strange people
with kindly vet sad and smileless faces
wrought in all labor with that patience and
which characterize but one race of
men.
In Palma and throughout the fair Ba-
learic Isles studies of the deepest interest
are among the people themselves and then
among the lowliest of these. The city has
few great lions for sightseers who are
already familiar with the southern cities of
Europe If one has friends, or can secure
them, it is true that there are no more beau
tifuI aud exquisite examples of the Nor
interiors than can be found
in Palma's homes. Indeed I have never
seen in art, as representative of the patio or
court of the Italian, Spanish or Moslem
home, anything equalling the beauty of
these open courts. The stone work, while
never on SO grand scale, rivals in delicacy
Of texture, and richness of ornamentation
anything to be found within the walls of the
Alhambra
Winsome Bits of Scenery.
The scenery of the bay, though not so
noble as that of Naples, is far more win
'ome and enchanting. Then there is the |
lncient fortress, the Castle of Bellver, ris-
ng from one of the heights of the circling
shore. 1t is 600 years old, and its dungeons,
patio and Gothic arched galleries are among
,he most interesting medieval architecture |
N Europe. Palma's Cathedral, one of the |
most majestic in the Latin countries, was
,uilt more than 700 years ago, while the |
Lonja, built as an Exchange, in the ratifica- |
ion of convention between the Balearic |
Islands and the Republic of Pisa, with its |
massive roof supported by but four slender
iuted shafts, its floor of polished black mar
Die, and its wonderfully carved open work
galleries.. is as unique and impressive a
structure as the traveller can discover
lmong the storied haunts Of the two penin-
ulas
In pretty and comfortable diligences, |
Ipon the backs of mules or donkeys, or
better still, upon your own stout legs, the
'emotest portions Of the island are reached. |
over roads that will rival England's, in
scarcely more than single days journey.
# you are simply sight-seer, there is
much to do and see within the little sea-
,irt spot. The vineyards of Binisalem and
IL ~ l