Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1892-11-27

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MODEL SKIRT.
shoulders. Loose wrappers have the
waist cut In the same way, with the
skirt cut on, but in measuring for a
loose wrapper an allowance or SIX
inches longer than it apparently re-
quires should be made at the bottom,
and this afterward can be pinned up to
come just right, as skirts OF wrappers
somehow take up Unexpectedly. The
side seams must be gored, and fan of
one breadth of the material should be
set in with the back seam.
Princess dresses are simply basques
with skirts, and by drafting the basque,
following the indications OF the lines,
always allowing any slant to fall back
ward, perfect fitting princess will be
the result. In 8 princess the skirt
should be long also, and only hemmed
or trimmed when the whole is sewn, so
that it may not take up and be too
short. Riding basques are made on
the same lines, with the sole difference
of rigid plainness 10 trimming,
and position backs, which are
formed by allowing the back forms
to extend longer and the fronts
cut shorter than ordinary basques. The
little positions at the back are faced all
the way up with the material, and two
silk buttons are out at the waist line
like those on mems coats. Jackets are
cut on the same general line as the
basque, only half an inch larger on
every seam, and as much longer as is
desired. Pockets can be added or not
and any preferred style OF trimming
put on. One dart Ouly-the back one
is ever added 20 jackets. None Is neces-
sary II one prefers it straight.
Blazers are cut in the same general
style. but without darts and rather mar
rover across the chest. The length
and width depend upon individual taste.
Plain leg O. mutton sleeves. Rows Of
stitching form the most suitable finish
to both blazers and jackets. Blouses
are cut just like the plain gathered
waist, but from the under arm sleeve
line they should measure twelve inches
and have plain hem, through which is
drawn a tape or elastic to gather them
so that they can fall over, meeting the
skirt.
In finishing of riding habit basque
it is customary TO have the lining OF
stout linen, with the seams pressed
fat and boned as usual, but 1t is not
necessary to finish the seams off 80 neat
ly, as lining Of quilted satin is sewn
in and neatly felled over all the seams.
Tailor made gowns depend for their
beauty upon the exactneSs o. every line
and every stitch. Every seam must be
pressed fat before another is sewn, and
then when the whole is finished final
pressing should be given it. Not a wrink-
lie should form upon the waist. Wherever
the seams finish like position basque,
an arrowhead Of silk is worked, as also
at the corners Of pockets. Skirts for
tailor gowns are just now cut sheath
fashion, with all the fullness in fan
pleating at the back and with several
rows of stitching around the hem of the
skirt. They are frequently made with
out lining, particularly when Of serge or
cloth, aud faced at the bottom. The
facing is made Of serge or wigan, over
laid with linen, and this again covered
with alpaca, all stitched together and
faced on like any facing, leav-
ing the edge Of the dress next the
ground. A narrow braid is put on fat
under this, but it does not show from
the outside. But with the return of
cooler weather Innings or foundations
will be used, and they can be cut and
sewn up with the skirt seams, or sepa
rate, as before, In which case the
facings and braid go on in the lining,
and the skirt is hemmed. II stitching
is TO take a prominent part, double
piece of flannel should be laid under
the place. and where the goods are
stitched the seams lhow very Prettily.
No person can do good work without
tools, and the home dressmaker ought
TO have one OF those little frames to
hang skirts on for the purpose Of drap-
ing them.
The foundation skirt Is thrown over
it, and the dresSmaker wants TO fashion
"wrinkled front" This, simple, as 1t
appears. is really the hardest thing to
do. The only way to get it right is to
take the piece of goods and bring one
end up from the floor, where the rest
lies, and pin it with the fold to the
centre of the front at the waist.
Then bring the two selvage edges
up to the hip waist line
and let the wrinkles fall naturally,
sticking pins in to hold them until
ready to sew them. About three deep
plaits on each hip will form, falling for
ward. The bottom then can De tackled
along basting following the line Of the
skirt. The top should then be trimmed
away, all the while keeping the pins in
the plaits, and then these should be
basted and finally sewn down neatly
with buttonhole looping. The bottom
can then be cut around and finally
hemmed or faced, as preferred, and the
back draperies or breadths sewn on, but
don't let those plaits come undone or
you will never get them back in the
same place.
The waist varies from twenty-five to
thirty-two inches, and the top should
therefore be graded so that all the six
pieces will make the required number
of inches, allowing the back breadth
ouly two inches, as 1t should always be
brought into that compass by plaits or
gathers.
Al the WodLef q q NoiJ SSous "Omdn
or has high stomach, the top of the
front breadth should be followed out
one inch to one and q half to throw the
fulIness forward. and the bottom should
be as much longer in the center. II q
slender figure. it can be left straight.
II for . sheath skirt, the seams at the
ton must be fitted to the figure. bnt
skirts on this plan have had their best
day, aud draperies are coming IN.
OLIVE HARER.