Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-04-25
ABOUT VALPARAISO.
The Most Beautiful City on the South
American Coast.
CHILTS PRINCIPAL SEAPORT.
Its Spacious Harbor Filled With Vessels of
Every Nstion-Its Houses Built Upon the
Hins-weIl-Paved Streets and Handsome
Public and Private Buildings.
rom The Stars Travelling Commissioner.

From The Stars Travelling Commissioner
VALPARAISO, 1891.
WHY THOSE IMAGINATIVE SPANIARDS
w Of the early time should have dubbed
this spot Vale Of Paradise nobody living
now 8 days can understand, for there is no
vale anywhere in the vicinity, and no indica-
tion Of paradise. Certainly 1t 10 the last
place on the face Of the earth where one would
think Of locating great city. Ancient Rome,
they tell Us, was built upon seven hills; but
Valparaiso struggles up q score of them. for
the simple reason that there is not room
enough on the narrow strip of sand between
the rugged heights and the sea. The horse
shoe-eurved coast in its widest part admits Of
eight or ten streets; but they extend only a
snort distance; IN another and longer place
there Is space for but two streets between the
ems and the rolling surf The greater part
Of the city, however, occupies a slightly slop-
ing incline, and the GALES (streets) are laid out
In regular squares.
THE TOWN EXTENDS sKYwARD.
Asthe population increased the rocky hills had
to be made available, and now the town, which
runs along shore some three or four miles, ex-
tends back a considerable distance. More cor
rectly speaking II extends skyward, one mans
house being built above another's reached by
long stalrways, winding roads, and lifts pro-
peeled by steam, similar to those in use at Mag
ara Making neighborly calls on foot in this
portion of the city Is too hard work to become
very popular, while coming down again is posi-
lively dangerous when the walks happen to be
slippery after n rain Thus one man . yegeta-
bic garden may seen TO hang suspended di-
reetly over another mans roof; and the latter
by reaching out of his upper windows might
almost help himself to the formers beets and
cabbages-
HORSE TAXES DROP.
friend Of mine. who has house opposite the
Hotel Colon, set close up TO the steep, rocky
escarpment. relates an amusing story Of how he
heard terrible commotIOn one night in the rear
Of his bed room. and having searched in vain for
the cause thereof, remained sleepless till day-
hight wondering whether il were a visitation of
ghosts or burglars. Morning revealed strange
but lGcicrOus sight A horse which had been
seen the DAY before grazing peacefully upon
the lawn above had somehow slipped of in the
darkness and stuck fast in the narrow space be-
tween the cliff and the back wall Of NV friends
house on the terrace next below, where his
irmuess struggles had nearly demolished the
eapboards- BY dint of lowered ropes, the luck
less animal was at length rescued, very little
The worse for his adventure.
There are two Kinds of public hacks for hire
IN valparaiso. and one chooses between them
according 10 his destination If his excursion
Is confined 10 the lower town he takes an ordi-
nary carriage with two horses attached but if
the hills are to be assembled he must pay nearly
double the price for a heavier built vehicle to
which three horses are harnessed abreast-the
Aw tOrolddlng any others to go up The hap
hazard paths. that were originally laid out by
The goats that fed upon the mountain sides
meander about IN the most confusing manner,
but are now abandoned except by pedestrians
for all wheels go by the splendid new road
winding around the hills which has lately been
completed a distance Of about nine miles.
MS APPEARAScK VIEWED FROM TEE BAT.
Viewed from the bay, especially of an
evening. Valparaiso presentsa fine appearance
with long lines Of lights. one above another,
making 1t look, as Sir. Curtiss says. like "A city
turned up end" Electric lights placed
upon the erests OF the cliffs throw their ravs
and intensified shadows upon the streets and
terraces and gardens below with the eject of
moonlight But by ''the garish light of day"
Tie rows Of houses and huts, of irregular shapes
and elevations, clinging to the precipices ike
80 many birds nests, look as If one stiff breeze
would blow them of into the bay.
Ir- Vincent likens Valparaiso to a vast am
peiIheater. regarding the ridges Of the hills as
AlsIes- and Is reminded OF Hong Kong by its
sloplag position and OF Quebec by its spurs
which terminate in bluffs at the waters edge
AZ aay rate. despite its natural disadvantages,
Ihllltn enterprise, assisted by English. French
and German capital, has made here a splendid
elfy-the hnest port in South America In
'Aet. the only one on the southern continents
which can show all modern improvements 1t
resembles city Of France or Germany, or even
u The United States, more nearly than it does
fepcbhe has no city with only Valparaiso's
Population (l25, 900 which contains SO many
me shops and such n display OF costly and
.l1GriOIs articles The foreign element is
-@tge and wealthy. the natives proud and pros
Pero4s. and, like the nearby capital, the place
Is famous for the extravaganza Of its citizens.
li@ny OF tie private residences are palaces in
thei- proportions and adornments, and mil
-iotlalres are as common here as teE-thousand-
Go.4aE people At home.
THE s-REKTs AND RIII Drxcs
The principal commercial street, called the
'a4.e Victoria, stretches around the entire har-
Dor and presents some splendid architecture
mere being considerable rivalry in the matter
" e4aborately carved facades and other adoru-
meats Many Of the best public and private
houses are found in the street, which was
named IN honor Of England's queen, as well as
LOst u the banks. hotels. counting houses of
Wholesale firms and shops of the heaviest re-
iailers. recent traveller writes: AS walked
past the elegant bronze statue Of Lord Coch-
I4ne-the EngiIshulan who commanded the
Rect OF Chilli frOm ISIS TO lS22-with the
post oiiice and fire engine 10 the left, and the
MUNICIPAL palace before NE, and turned
Town a street to the right TO the Grand
central Hotel with its long flight Of marble
% steps-I was strEck by the very civilized look
oi the famous CHILEAN port. The people who
were rushing about in tine eagerness of bust
ness ACTIVITY did not seem to DC South Ameri-
SSns, but Germans. French. English and
iankees- When / came to enter some of the
great foreign mercantile houses, extending
rom street 10 street aud fitted with perfect
modern appointments, and when at night
Haantered through the long GALES where most
y the retail business Is doue, with brilliantly
~hsea shops hiied With n gorgeous variety OF
sOOus from every country. could hardly be-
.-s'e ny ell on the southern continent"