New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-04-26
AN INDIAN ART IDOL.
THE PICTURE AT TzINTZUNTZAN.
SCENIC BEAUTIES OF LAKE PATzcoAl'o-N
RELIC OF TARAsCAN GRANDEUR-A Il1iAN
THAT CANNOT BE PURCHASED

THAT CANNOT BE PURCHASED
FROM A STAFF CORRESPONDENT OF TIE TRIBUNE
Tzintzuntzan. February p.
From, NroreIia the modern capital Of Mchoacan,
T have come to the ancient seat Of government
now an insignificant Indian village with huuule
Of adobe huts and a few hundreds of indolehO
Tarascans. but once stronghold Of empire
rivalling in military power that of the Nome
zumas The village was formerly inaccessible
but it is now readily reached from Patzcuaro,
the terminus of the Morelia branch of the Natohal
railway From picturesque hacienda "heto
a clean bed and delicious whitehsh brolieu u
a turn are TO be had, little steamer crosses tlc
lake to Erangaricuaro, a curious Indian Nluogo'
where barges are filed with lumber cut Ill Vnc
mountains near by Tzintzuntzan lies on the sioP
ing hillsides of the remote eastern shore Vi Vn'
lake. If the steamer cannot DE charIereu w
the excursion, Indian canoes are avalaole Ior
the remainder of the voyage From Patzcuaro III
is horseback ride Of eighteen miles halfway
around the lake to Tzintzuntzan, but that Is d
rough and lonely jaunt, for which the wafer
passage offers delightful alternative
From the hacienda the start IS MADE Deioro
in the morning, with a double portion OF ue'
licous coffee from Uruapan and two eggs as al
extra. for breakfast In the Indian fonda at Eran-
arcuaro may be delayed until O'Clock III tne
afternoon. The sun is hardly high enough above
the eastern mountains 10 light up the weather.
beaten face of the h0spitable plantation house.
with its farm buildings and orderly k1tchen-gar-
den but the fake is already revealed in the same
hcwitciing loveliness which enchanted Humboldt,
the wisest and least imaginative OF travellers
There are larger lakes in Mexico, Chapala near
Guadalaiara, being three times as long;
but there is none TO be compared with 10 In beauty
Lake Patzcuaro is well named In the IaTaScah
tongue the place Of delights. II is encircled with
mountains and sealed with Towering islands.
twenty-five miles IN length by ten in BREADTH IL
is miniature Lake George at an altitude or
900 feet above the sea. Bold mountain peaks
ccave the sky, with Tzirate towering aiar III
stately splendor and the treacherous volcano Jor-
rullo. looming up ominouSly In the south Inc
mdulatlnc banks are rObcd in exquisite fresh
ness of vcrdurc. The islands. Nanicho, Nara
cuaro and Pacanda with their fishing hamlets'
are mirrored in the waters with the clouds han4-
ing over them; and the visitor seems 10 see
what he could not find in the lakes of the valley
Of NeXico-the tabled floating gardens of Aztec
days There is an aspect Of loneliness here that
imprcsscs the dullest soul Great swarms Of wild
duck are huttcrng over thc tranquil surface OF
the lake undisturbed by the sportsman's rifle.
h seems like a deserted lake for there are no
Sims Of life I'm the fishing hamlets. The few
Indians gliding nosclesy by In their primitive
canoes with their rapt lmpasslvr faces. are ghosts
Of tie Tarasoan past rather than moving figures
in the Mexico Of today The noisy. putting little
steamer, with its lumber barge. appears out Of
place on this tranquil sheet Of water II Is
REGION which seems to belong to the dreamy
reaches Of n stored past
There was an empire, with Tzintzuntzan as its
capital. when Cortes invaded Mexico. From the
Pacific 10 the frontiers Of the Aztecs the Tarascan
king, held sway Their salaces were in the valley
Of Patzcuaro. on the shores Of the lake and on
the slopes OF Tzirate. FortTesses were on the
Islands and paved roads and timbered snoter-
+ ranean passages connected the cities AT lgualZlo
+ there WIS an ancient pyramid. There we've TEN
pies. with Mdeous carved idols and massive
,orulcnr,s for Tarascan sovereigns. 1t was
p,accfu race. but when attacked it was warllke
and powerful. as the Aztccs learned TO their cost
Cortos when he had conquered the great city
beside the eastern lakes. sent, not an army, but
missionaries 10 Tziutzuntzan. and they were re
ccivcd Gladly The idols Ovcrihrown and
Che Tarascau King himself embraced Christianity.
Then came one of the atrocities OF the Spanish
CONQUEST The King was burned at stake
for Withholding treasures from commission oil
coyc.ous adventurcrs The Tarascan chiefs were
ont to death with horrible torture. and the al
+ f-i..lfeI natives were scattered among the noun
talus of Lake Patzcuoro. This massacre caused
/ Inclination in the Spanish Court, and Quiroga was
sent ont to renew the faith Of the natives IN
religion which had been dchlcd by odIouS crimes
He was the first bishop of Michocan, and he was
consocrated at Tzintzantzun lie founded the first
college in Mexico, and preached gospel OF love
end rood works which won the hearts OF the
.
have passed since his death, but his memory Is
rcycrrnccd still by the Indian population III these
f,iias villages The glory of the IarScan en-
prr has passed away, but not Tie gratitude Oh
+ the race 10 the sanity man who taught lNeHl
way, Of pleosantnesS and peace.
II is now II o'clock, and the two beiirleS oil
tie ancient churches invite approach rom the
beach. 4 long lane leads mp the slope OF one oi
+ the two hills over which the adooe
cabins arc scattered. \ throne OF Indians
-a2c M tie visitors with indifferent interest al
the landing and guide lazy consents 10 con-
duct the party to the churches The houses are
/ t,c rudc>t cells of sun-drcI clay, but there are
roses blooming over the doorwayS and lu\urlaht
vines have covered the crumh.lng walls with
fragrant vcrdurr one cabin IS IKE announcer Ior
q spirit of democratic equality prevails among TINS
slmplc-miudcd people and no one Is anxious 10
/ Lave n better house than MS hclShooi' A''i0
are pigs in the lanes, common red pottery III lle
cupboards. and for all the uniform Diet oil tor'tl-
las and friiolcs-maizc cakes and beans hVen III
the rudcst and most neglected dwelling there Is
some faint indication of that love OF decorative
effect which is characteristic of the Mexican peo-
plc The municipal hall is in sorry S'ate oil
decay, but within there is a picture OF the n't
Tarascan Kings conversion 70 Christianity fur'h'f
on is tie old wall surrounding the churches ana
behind 1t is grove OF olive trees p''h'eu oy
the franciscan clergy who lahored mere more
than three centuries ago. Inc N"'''ot'" ''''
was transferred even in Bishop Quirosa's time
the college was also shifted to Nalladolid; the
hosp.tal was abandoned. and the church and
coistcr were left to fall into decay and ruin; but
the olive orchard remains fresh and beautiful
above the graves where the piouS Catholic mis-
! ,.....l ~ thn tnnncl rnr.,nn nl