St. Paul daily globe., 1891-11-06
IN THE HOUSE.
Common-Sense DOughnuts.

The Maine dOughnut and the Connec-
ticut cruller are almost identical, but
the Maine cruller is much richer and
shorter than that made in Connecticut,
says the New York Tribune The Maine
doughnut Is made with baking powder
or soda and cream of tartar-it is never
''raiSed'-and is not shaped like an
orange, but twisted or cut out cruller-
fashion. The raised doughnut' is
dubbed "COnnecticut doughnut'' by
the Maine folks. Connecticut dough-
nuts ripen about Thanksgiving time,
and the colder the weather the better
they thrive-but in some parts of Con-
necticut dOughnutS may be had the
year round. l know of several well-to-
dc ladies who make quite handsame
income selling dOughnut at 80 cents
dozen to people who are delighted to get
them, but have not patience or skill
sufficient 10 create eatable ones them
selves. These dOughnuts are never a
drug in the market The demand is al
ways greater than the supply l have
heard Connecticut people speak of the
baking powder dOughnuts as French
dOaghnuts," but they are not at ali val-
ued by those who know the real article.
The following is a good standard re-
cipe for the raised dOughnut-tEough
every doughnut maker will tell you her
formula is the best:
ITO pint of lukewarm milk add a
teacupfuI of melted lard. and stir into
this enough sifted flour to make thick
batter; add a teacnpful of yeast. and
keep it III 4 warm place until the batter
is light. The batter is usually made
just before going to bed and allowed to
stand over night. Work into the batter
I,,-f,e
fuIs OF granulated sugar. teaSpOOnful
of salt and one of cinnamon or grated
nutmeg. When the whole is well mixed
together. knead in flour until it is about
as stiff as biscuit dough. Cover with a
breadcloth and put it in a warm corner
near the stove. When of q spOngy
lightness roll the dough out half
an inch thick. and with a cake
cutter or small tumbler cut it into
! cakes. Once more let these remain
until light, then fry in hot lard. Take
them out in drainer or cOander, set in
a pan to drain. and let your assistant
roll them while they are hot in pulver-
| lied sugar. When properly sugared
they should resemble snowballS.''
The above rule is slightly varied by
| celebrated doughnut makers of my ac-
| Quaintance. One uses half butter and
half lard for the ShOrtening-anothe
uses only butter; but the amount is the
same. a great aunt of mine-oYer
ninety years Old-prefers half cupful
more of sugar, adds half teaSpOOnful
| OF soda in the morning before kneading,
and tries the dOughnuts seven minutes.
! OF course, the time depends on the size
somewhat, and her cakes are cut out
| with wine glass. Another doughnut
maker increases the sugar to three cup
i fulS hnf allows only tbrpQ pUOc
| other says: sin regard 10 the yeast
what mean by cupful-I soak one
! yeast cake in little warm water. and
when soft, fill up the cup with milk
! and that is my cupful of yeaSt.''
Now, there is a good deal in the fry-
| ing. l have tried TO eat these doughnuts
when they were ScOrched on the outside
and pasty in the center; and again
have refused TO eat them because they
had absorbed so much grease. / knew
they were utterly indigeStible. | am
very fussy when it comes to frying things
of this nature. but 1t is a fussiness that
pays well in the end. In the first place,
use plenty of greaSe-generally lard
but oftentimes the drippings of roast
beef or the clear fat skinned from
broth or soup stock when it is cold To
test the degree of heat. throw a bit of
bread into the frying fat If it begins to
bubble and boil and fiZZ go ahead with
the doughnuts. Do not be in such a
hurry, however, as to put in too many at
once. or you will cool your fat too sud-
denly. But too high degree of heat
must also be avoided-smoke rising
from the fat will warn you of that state
OF things. and the frying kettle must be
drawn TO the back of the stove for an
instant.