Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-09-06

| sleeve which I call of the Greek type
has appeared in many charming modifica-
| tions, what we see on the Parthenon frieze
being only, as we may say, the ultimate
analysis of the idea. We may always recog-
nize it by observing whether if loosed from
its fastenings it would fall and become a
harmonious part of the garment The
| slashed and pufed sleeves of the Middle
| Ages were of this type, the variations being
only different modes of confning the fulness
| to the arm. One of these medieval sleeves,
| which satisfies every esthetic demand and
| has never been approached since for beauty,
| has the fulness confined above and below
| the elbow by plain pieces fitting the arm
and tied on, leaving the sleeve to show in
| puffs about the shoulder and elbow and in
i the spaces between the tyings. These pieces
which constrain the sleeve are of heavier
material, as should be where more strength
| is needed, and the strings are allowed to
| fly and be ornaments, which they naturally
are.
When, in medieval days, the loose sleeve
was of material whose nature is not to lie
in folds, as velvet it was slashed. A beau
tiful one of this kind is slashed in strips its
entire length, and the strips are twisted
spirallv Oh their descent from the shoulder
to their confinement in band at the wrist.
A twisted band binds them about the
shoulder, and a thin sleeve is worn under
meath.
MISTAKES IN THE FASHIONS.
In fashion paper find sleeve with q
rosette placed half way down the arm, and
from the rosette ribbons are sewed in curves
TO another rosette little further down on
the under side of the arm. Does this add
to the beauty of the arm?
Another one has a triangular puff sewed
on at the top and inserted at point half
way down the arm. What meaning is there
In this? Another has zig-zag piece of
material sewed its entire length. The dress
maker devised it because she wanted 'some-
thing different" Still another had two
puffs cut on the bias, sewed one below the
other on the upper arm.
When cloth absolutely refuses to be con-
strained from its character the dressmaker
resorts to the bias, a sign in almost all cases
that violence is being done to texture.
There is no use in multiplying examples.
Every coat sleeve which is trimmed except
at the top and bottom is mistakenly
trimmed. There is one possible execution
only. In sleeve of heavy material cog
nizance may be taken of the elbow. Old
armor had to be jointed there, and this per-
haps suggests the quaint style of marking
the sleeves here with a faring cuff But
this hints at tie necessity for joint in the
sleeve, which, unless in very heavy
material, like cloaking, too much strains
in idea the quality of cloth to be entirely
agreeable. 1t is an illustration of how little
fashion apprehends the reason for things
that recent fashion paper shows sleeve
with this cuff, or fange, half way up the
upper arm, and also recommends the style
as suitable one for summer materials
MIsAPPREHENsIo-T OF DRESS REFoRMERs
A sleeve should never be lined For the
sake OF getting the beauty of texture, if for
no other reason, thin materials should be
made after the loose type When we get
the ideal business weman's sleeve it will be
of sufficiently stout material, without any
lining; it will allow the utmost freedom of
action and yet will mould itself and take
all its form from the arm. There will be no
mark of the dressmaker upon it, but it will
be simply a realization of the utmost use