The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-07-04
GREAT FRENCH COOKS
Ree0llections Of a Paris Chef
Concerning His Confreres.
The PRINCES OF The TABLE
Emperor Williams Kitchen Has We Ger
Feed for Late Cz.r AIexx1der.

rreEazn ErsaE-sx d'hoIsz o chsfs wha. a.
the head q large establishment. srcL as
sctAe-aso's hoEseflo73 provide zhs
zErrsIui9szs bis q fare 50 highly rslisA@1
by Tie g-z13ess O Ehe sg-th-51S kings AID
queens and Y-s1css-znd especially IAss-
e1ipoieDi7z-lzx. Eho sometimes esz b.
Ter z7a arc g-E21e- ev5czres saza 1hslr sov-
e7eign peers
These renowned ehefs-7hs Yz1s3s q
taaeiT 1aE-1Ay hare never besn heard q
by tie reader u spite Of faael- European
reputation 5zs Eaz1 comes Of their -,ecul-
lar sl1le-raue0us avocztiol- for they are
vel KNOWN % al who work ter0-e THE
kz7etsn ranges O. ao-5sy mansions. n ssle
underground arena ~ embassies and
roy24 OF imperial palaces IS culinary ez-
r's-ls- theT are t.zs princes Of the tzbls an
they have bzt ore Object n LIE T1zs O.
unfolding the goo1ly repute q tbs tStles
1hey are commissioned 70 V-oTixs0n-
The head cook u large establishment
- a01 exactly Whist nos. people Usually
think Perhaps yoz osy fancy him as :
person cad II white frack. with : white
cap dOlr1shinr 3 lsdle over some rearing
Ere, and noa1zn 2ozxiv psnt Up II h7s
kitchen Il So yea are mistaken The
tahle = quite parsonage. ard one whom
none dDrs4 oE5en6- The master q he
house holds him IN high esteem znd shows
him every kln3asss- Moner Is rlxoed 81
his disposal Ei4A al unx-a-lng hand The
bill 04 fare must always he exquisite. Is
the pleasure q The gzex1 IN every case ~
counas 70 the glory q the host- II ne
comply with these requirements nothing
more Is asked Of him Buf outside cook
ing hours. when DO Longer engaged IN
x-Tis1zc2lly dressing ths monumental
dishes which are 10 1gare Or 1he dining
room table, our la1ssr-dzy Kxtsl Is sal1@
the gentleman. with servants az his tack
and cf1en a elegant house n town O. :
villa by The sezshore OF IN the ooua1ry-
Il yoa szz him leaving 1be kings zsalsce
Or The embassy, where he regulates the
courses, yo1 would take him fo- grand
seig1sur or a diplomat
Buf ! must leave ge1e-EltiAs ard coz-
fine myself 10 THOSE who are admittedly
II the head Of the army q head cooks. m
army whose numbers. an sor-y 70 szr,
diminish daily The reason u this di-alz-
ution may Re 2scr5bsd 10 the abnormal
spread Of riches, fer what was formerly
the privilege O. The few Is now 8 common
t-ASc 2A@41- 444E 4AAI.s 2--4 = c-lz-
private fortune Loses N Importance
accordingly as the number 81 rs heirs
increases. SO few nay noxadsys be found
who can afford 10 spead So 0es yezr on
their table Epicu-ss have pe-force grown
thrifty.
The ponp 2nd glory Of The dining-roon
Is thing O. the past both here and else
where Its last refuge Is AZ royal and
sions Of nillionz5reS- There only usy We
hope 10 neet-oes- the kings Of earth and
the kings q 6nznce-fhose genuine
scsdemlclzns Ct the SPIT. who are dese-T-
ing the name and worthy tie sT1eatSon Of
the cu-5ols-
Those among the head cooks who may
Re looked upon s. without conpee-s come
from the houses q tie Rolhschilds. where
such men ss Dug2ere. Gusgna-d, Charles
Lstoz- and the Like held regular culinary
assises and formed pupils after the nAn-
ner Of RSpAsel. Rat,ens and n C2b21es.
There were IN fEef. THO distinct schools %
cookery whose merits S15l divide their
psrtissns. II sEch important questions
could be settled n few words might
ssy thsi the D1glers school VAS gorgeous
and dazzling. while thai Of 6llguz-6.
though more ouie7 and modest IN appear
2oce. vas perhaps more solid 81 bottom
In The foremost rank Of Contemporary
Da;t-es hotel. or chefs. are D1bols and
Bernard They we're the Emperor VII
iA-nas own cooks unf5l their master de-
c5ded 70 ou7-{5s-1asn the Germans xAs1
he 6ecreea. N ISIS, that fo- The future The
bills OF fare 81 The imperial table should
be drawn I'D IN German instead q French
This proceeding showed more folly than
patriotism. Tor French Is The Language oE
the cuisln4 81 The word over Jlss as
France "a ps- excellence Fhs tarfhq12cs 81
cooks Ever since the time d Frederick
The S7-saf. who had 100 great q regard for
his constitution 80 allow il 10 be spoiled
hr Gs-zxn cookery, there have been 3
succession q g-S2EA cooks 81 PoEse&-n-
Tszho5s and Bernard we're collshors1o-S-
s16 their Two names srS IS 11se7Arzoly
connected with IAs imperial kitchen as
hose u Duxe-1 zo6 IsZsSnzs n the cook
snr Of dramatic works They are French
men. beth Az cooks. ! repeat, xrs
French. Freedmen are gifted. 1oi VIII
. genius fa- colonization. bur for cooker.
plHois. Who Short tine before parted
win Bernard. Oh account oF increasing II
health. NAV Re locked upon Is G1e grand
master Of tie cooks Il or tine. No- 3
he r-s1-co1s- hF AR means He e.
,e-es TIE service - IRE RIVAL family CT
P--7ss5s IS fk- hzck IS gzo2E-y = ISIS He
= ne s5+e-z1sz- ard zn&lyss boIh Sh-ez6
and sel5ca1s @ tie corporation Hls first
zr-k LA Ca.Slos C4&sSio1e," appeared
n 7ssS znz Ess written u continuation
with Emile Bernard. Us colleague n tie
management Of the imperial kitchen he
f-.rs-1e eventually The sole p-oV-is.or u
us work ard published Afterwards. With
,pr he assistance Of rs friend. q series q
rn3u-ss az rs f4vo-z1e theme, tc-xif-
IL Czssias A-41s13e1s. La Cuisine ae
Toz5s Paws .xs-z2d Lsvre 6z P%s5s-
s;e-~ and tive books fcr 1ae people
entitled Il Ecole &c CziS.nse-ss''
.rd La SouFel4s CEis.as Boz--
,-aa5se al Q. which hare ~
9h-onra numerous s5lI5onS HIS t-sx1-
r.e,t az ne <zsyieg4 = deserving Of tht high
- enco-suz ~LA Cuisine ArEiS15oue .
brought ouF ty I~nG1, : 3 monumental
wa-k sd contains 1-SE-el2ss szg-zvIzgx
Even Curso-v YA-1S31 O; tAas imposing
r-eH7sSe VII cozTz-cs tae -e21e-- however
f1-ssra he nav ee % ezessl91s t-sS-s1g CT
-ase Culinary ~. s1zI = OCEANS x-y n1r2-
~ q new views z23 -sccZ -as-d2-lo-s q
he hixaesz r&lze- II I2y ~ regarded IS
/ : px-Feet e-rvczo-szzsa e cookery AID TIE
5 book pa- exceIlezee ~ ihs pantry
tS4o--e. IS NJ i called ard whose fnI2
I -.xs-Czvrsls- = George. Bo1-ze1. Hlie3 she
r,ss. c{ head esook - P-1ans ts-s01s-E1 fsx-ss.
! fa- upwards - swe1Tv yeA-@~ he = -se-
ernizeS 81 3 master sy 81 u as csszlsrsrtss~
! Prince Es-sa-- O the o.1sr A&zL = TIE
q sE1--s p