Pullman herald. [volume] (Pullman, W.T. [Wash.]) 1888-1989, 1891-07-17
A RIDE IN GUATEMALA.
A ROUGH TRIP THROUGH THE COR
DILLERAS' SIDE SPURS.

Stage Travel in Central America-Indian
ways-A Lively scene-Driving Through
Town at Full GalIop-A Tiresome
Ascent-Down Grade.
| left Ouezaltenang> by stage for San Mar
COS recently. The road runs through the
side spurs of the CordiIleras for thirty-six
miles, and the up grades are so heavy that to
! make any time the animals are whipped
along on every level stretch and sent faster
down hill, the brake being applied only
when the wagon gains too much on the
horses The team we had was made I'D of
three miserable horses, not more than four
teen hands high, and one lazy mule of about
the same size. The stages are canvas COW
! ! cred spring wagons, seating four people in
side and one with the driver all seats on the
same level and cushioned with leather stuffed
with straw, and as hard as the boards under
meath. Most of the drivers are Mexicans,
j., wearing sandals and such clothes as they NAV
ber. borrow, or steal The diligence com
7 many supplies a few extra pieces of chain
leather, an immense lash whip, and large
knife. with which the driver fashions the
leather TO repair the dozen or so breaks of
, the harness in the course of the day.
: The first town reached was Sun Mateo
. about two leagues from Quezaltenango, and
one league further on, as we neared the foot
, of the mountains, we passed through San
q Imam Ostuucalco a 'pueblo" of 600 or 700
souls. 1t was about O'Clock in the morning
+ and the streets were filled with Indians
? bringing in market produce, some carrying
| the loads in baskets on their heads but the
p majority had their cargoeS on their backs in
what is called "canasta." This is a wooden
framework of shelves fastened into four up
= right pieces of wood and stiffened with raw.
a hide thongs, those of ordinary size being
' about four feet high, thirty inches wide and
twenty inches deep. Cords around the bot
tom and middle are joined to the leather
e headpiece, or broad strap, which passes
across the mans forehead and serves to hold
e the contrivance in place. The Indian, in
t clining bis body slightly forward, travels for
: days thus laden with his pack Of $50 pounds
= so delicately balanced and adjusted that he
t feels no excess of strain on any particular
t point Many were driving goats and sheep
e in front of them, and others dragging them
with ropes tied around their necks.
3 The pretty, bright colored dresses of the
S Indians added much to this lively scene. Now
+ and then you could see the entire family
bringing II the produce of their farm, the
4 father himself carrying his load and driving
! InS DuTTO, So heavily pdChGu GLdG llOGUll5
| but the tips of his ears and his feet could be
seen, followed by the mother with a basket
on her head and the youngest strapped to her
back, with his legs dangling out of the folds
1 of the shawl and his little black head peep
, ing out Of the top. Then come the two boys,
both carrying loads; the older one Juggling at
a rope tied to the neck of an obstinate,
squealing pig, who wishes to go i'll any direc-
: ton but the proper one, and who is being
-, urged forward by the younger boy, who is
> laying his whip across its hind quarters at
every step. They seem to make but slow
progress, but they will reach the plaza and in
time for market hours
y Through the main street of San Juan,
paved with cobble stones and filled with such
a crowd, our d liver forced his animals at a
gallOp, urging them on with his whip and a
: shrill whistle, and being comparatively fresh
q they responded quite willingly. The leaders,
with sleigh bells tied to their necks, warned
q all in advance to get out of the way Away
we went, bounding over the uneven pave
: ment with a great racket, and in ways so
= narrow that the crowd had to hug the sides
+ of the houses to escape our wheels For blocks
, in front you could see the Indians escaping
/ into the side streets when possible, and
, though these people are objected TO the dan
' ger of being run over every time a diligence
' passes, they seem to bear no i'll will to the
e careless drivers. They have never seen any
e other management of horses, and presume
! they think that this is the proper way to
drive And besides, they depend on the stage
I line for the execution of any commissions
I they may have in the neighboring towns.
f Many times our driver stopped in the long
2 streets of San JUAN always a welcome guest,
] dropping packages here, picking them up
Q there, and at every stop receiving his small
piece of silver and drink in payment He
/ took so many drinks before coming to the
; hills that began to have some fears for our
4 safety on the steep and dangerous roads to
+ come.
Three miles to the north of San Juan the
long and tiresome ascent begins, and so mar
row that horsemen only can pass the stage
The road is cut into the mountain side
many places in solid rock, in which, as you
go slowly ahead, can be seen MANY names
; and prettily carved crosses; and on nearing
the summit you see many wooden crosses
planted on the roadside, inscribed with the
! names of the saints in whose honor they
! were erected. Looking back, the entire val
ley of QueZalte mango is spread out before
, and about 1000 feet below you, and often
, obscured by the clouds, for you are above
! them and in them, and the blankets over
: your knees and your heavy wraps do not
make you feel over warm We were nearly
=, five hours making the ridge a distance Of
: about seven miles. The mountain scenery
in this region is grand, but any views, no
matter how beautiful, would become monot-
onous when seen from an almost springless
= vehicle, dragged over a rain washed, rocky
road at gallop, accompanied by Mexican
! drivers yellS and whistles, and the incessant
swapping of his whip; so, at about o'clock
when we pulled up at the breakfast station
, in a lovely green mountain valley, it was not
! the meal that pleased US, but the relief felt
, in getting out of that hard cushioned, wagon
: | and away from the drivers noise.
! The stages meet at this stopping place, and
! when the drivers had finished their converse
! ton without any consideration for the feel
, ings Of the impatient passengers we were
! again off, and soon on the down grade. 1t
o was so rocky that with my feet braced in
a front and holding on to the sides, very often
{ came down on the seat with SO violent a
! bump that felt as if my spinal column had
q gone up through my brain. Now and then
the stage would give side lurch and smash
the brim of my hat against the side sticks.
This down hill ride continued for two hours,
until, thoroughly exhausted, we arrived at
the town of San Pedro, where we caught
| glimpse of a rather level country in advance.
:. Guatemala Cor. New York Times.
J The Barrancas of Brazil.
Soma Of tho INLAND rao.io1o IF