The morning call., 1891-08-23

lent men, but if made of dressy material.
with the lapelS peaked and Silk-faced and
worn open, with the roll extending to the
second lower button and hole. The coat is
suitable and stylish for any one, stout or
lean, tall or short.
The regular four-button sack, with the
fronts we'll rounded below the lever button
Is the style. The three buttoner, with the
lower button about opposite the top of the
ticket-poeket, and having the fronts cut
well away below 1t, so as to show the lower
button OF the vest is a popular style, whether
made OF suiting with the vest and trousers to
match, or of dark cheYi0t, with the vest
either of the same or of fancy material, and
with striped, checked or plaided trousers of
light color. The regular four buttoner and
the one button cutaway form are
always made OF suitings or whipcords,
and. like the tbree-buttoners, have the
side and ticket pockets finished
with flaps to go in or out and with one
with two patched on. The edges of these
coats are single-stitched barrow, unless
made OF stripes, checks or plaids, when they
are usually double stitched three-eighth
inch wide. The most popular sleeve finish
is vent about two inches deep, closed with
one button. The double-breasted sack.
made of dark chevlots or undressed
worSteds, or of fancy suitings, will be much
worn. 1t will have well-peaked lapels, will
have the edges evenly spaced for five holes
and will roll TO the third. The edges will
be double-Stitched and the sleeves Will be
finished as for the single breaSters.
EVENING DRESS.
The peaked lapel and the shawl-roll style
OF coat will be about equally popular and
Will be made as rule OF fine or TN finished
worsteds, though broadcloths will be occa-
slonally preferred and are in every way I'M
objectionable in appearance. The roll of
the peaked-lapel style is light and sharply
peaked with the silk extending to the end of
the holes. The shawl roll is also light, but its
special feature is ample width just in front of
the shoulder and lghtness from there to the
end. The roll on either extends 10 within
" inches OF the waist seam, and the edges
are single stitched unless broadcloth is used,
when they are corded. The sleeves are fin
iShed with imitation cuffs closed with five
buttons and the skirts are quite narrow at
the bottom. The vest may be of the same
material as the coat, with the collar, fronts
and bottom embroidered, or with the edges
relieved by tracing braid just back of the
stitching, or of white or very deJicately
tinted, embossed or embroidered silk.
A new style uf double breast has the same
opening and collars as though it were sin
gle-breasted. the ends meeting In the front
center and the LABELS extending and button
ing under the collar. This vest is never of
the same material as the coat. The trousers
are of medium width, tolerably well sprung
over the instep, the side seams finished
pidiH vi Will CUIu Welt anu Oludlllclttu
with fancy braid.
The dress sack, or Tuxedo coat. may be
correctly worn instead of the dress coat at
informal evening parties, in the billiard
room, and even at the theater when full
dress is not imperative, but it is no more
correct for evening dress than a smoking
jacket. 1t has no outside pocket and the
fronts have neither button nor buttOnhole,
but in the lett roll there is worked a hole for
a b0utonuiere.
SPECIAL FEATURES.
The dress vest opens lower than ordinary,
whether single or double breasted. In
trousers the side seams, except for evening
dress. are usually finished with narrow
welt, the bottoms being moderately well
sprung over the instep. Every style of
fashionable coat should be made as soft as
possible, so that unless it is intended to be
worn closed 10 the neck. with standing or
Prussian collar, it will roll free. The CheS-
lerield should be made particularly soft, so
that when thrown open the fronts will roll
gracefully to the bottom. Double breasted
frOeks may be closed with three or four but
tons at the will of the wearer