The Princeton union. [volume] (Princeton, Minn.) 1876-1976, 1891-06-25
THE WORLD tOF WOMEN.

AAAAA t&sf ~ WAAl1D ~ - yvsVNAAA-ses,
INTERESTING MATTERS FOR THE
WOMEN EQAKS. II
Hints to Amateur Dress Makers--
Making Friends and Keeping
Them-aA Woman on a.
Handicap of "a
Wardrobe.
Hints to Amateur !, Dress-Makers.
Il A pretty fashion, when darts are
taken in the waist,of thin fabrics
lace, grenadiney crepe, or India silk
is to stud them thicklyAwith jet nail
heads. A singledart is taken, on each
side ofthe front; and this is the second
dart, the fullness between be-
ing held or gathers or laid in
flat overlapping .,pleats. A new
way to dispose,of the fullness in front
and back of bodices; above the waist
line revives the. old-fashioned French
gathers made alternating short
and long stitches, thrusting forward
the edges of thepleats andlaying these
very close together. This is most
effective on wool stuff and thick silks.
French modistes ;,are making dress
skirts closely gored in front and on
the sides, with sbias back arranged
in a new way that gives stylish scant-
ness at the top and great breadth at
the foot. To get this effect, the back
is composed of three straightbreadths
of silk sewed together, and hungto the
belt from one corner, instead of from
their top. This makes a straight side
next each gored side breadth, and
leaves the middle of the back perfectly
bias. The point att the foot is cut off,
and the end Of the skirt is gracefully
rounded. It is well, in making the
back, to cut off the upper corner about
eight inches across, and gather this
slightly, instead of literally hanging
the back from point. In double
width goods, such as ladies' cloth, a
single breadth forms the back, and
the slantlng seams seen in silk1ane thus
avoided. ~
Economists who wish to anemodel
skirts of Chantilly lace with, scolloped
edges should cut off the worn scallops
at the foot, and add agathered hounce
OF lace. A similar founce gathered to
the edge of the bodice will further
ifreshen the gown. A skirt of piece lace
can be given the appearance of having
D OF 80 lo
sides by slashing it upward from the
lower edge in five places, andiinserting
,pleated net in each slit. The slash i'm
the middle Of the front should ibe only
six inches deep, and those toward the
sides lengthen gradually to twelve
inches. A half-yard of net lis pleated
in the deepest slashes, while that in
the middle is only ten inches wide,
The pleats are laid close together at
the top, and fan outward to the foot.
"A bow-knot of jet heads each pleat,
and marrow jet gimp, of which the
BOWS are formed, crosses the skirt as
1t heading a. founce. ...... ..... ....
Another good plan for the economist
rs to remodel her black skirts sot sur
sh Or faille or of lace to wear with a
Single pretty coat DOdlce OF :b1ack
foulard strewn with blue or pink
blossoms, or figured with some bright
color. The skirt with bias back,
slightly long, and bordered with two
Or three narrow ruffles, is the best
naodel. The foulard coat may he
slashed all around below the waist,
the tabs faced with silk the color of
the flowers, and the only trimming a
double ruff1e Of chiffron placed around
'the meek, down the fronts, and
around the wrists. Two sets of chif-
iron :ruffles for one dress are useful,
'one ~set, OF black chiffron to use when
wearing the coat with a very plain
SKIRT, the other set of yellow, rose, or
blue the color of the blossoms in the
foulard, to wear with better skirts OF
grenadine or net.