davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

ford cord has the skirt fitted even more
carefully than the waist 1t is perfectly
plain, the cords which are woven to run
around making trimming enough. 1t fastens
up over the b0dice-whose back is of the
cord-with front of brucade, green and
gold upon the black ground. The brocade
is laid in two plaits on either side, which
meet at the waist. Bell sleeves of brocade
90 over tight ones of the cord that have deep
wrist RIFLES of black chiffon.
At an early tea given to one of the Astor
family few days after the birth Of the
young heir, who is said to have his mothers
hands and hair, with Astor features, one of
the guests was thus gowned She sat near
the tea-table in a high carved mahogany
chair, perfect picture of the grand dame
I'm de steele. Her gown was of the richest
lawn corded silk, made with deep folded
vest that WAS fastened at the waist with
belt OF it and gold embroidery, Embr0id-
cry to match ran around collar, wrists and
skirt above deep band Of beaver fur. She
wore, likewise, a half-fitting vest of beaver
colored velvet. In front of her stood
young woman who could almost discount
the glorles of King Solomon. Her gown
was heliutrope cloth, with shaded metal
embroidery in gold, silver and copper. 1t
tell at the back in a demi-train and opened
In front over an under-dress OF the richest
stamped velvet in Louis XIV patterns. The
toqae was of cloth and velvet to match
Altogether she was a mighty Impressive
testimony to the dressmakers' high art.
ELLEN OSBORN.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
powdered with the white drops that might
j.. ....-l. ;r......rtal A..atLar

powdered with the white drops that might
be fairy tears made immortal. Another
gem, which upon the same occasion en-
HANGED the charms of her brunette dearest
foe, is of blue-green silver-spangled tulle
made with the suspicion of a fan train over
blue-green shot silk. At the foot the skirt
has an enormously full tulle ruchp. with a
row of stemless pink roses through the GEN.
ter The same trimming but smaller. out
lined the low neck. On either shoulder
there was a big real-lace butterfly and
third lowered over the roses ablOom in
beauty's hair. Another gem was of yellow
silk, hand wrought, with pink orchids with
yellow lewe!ed centers.
One of this autumn's brides. whose we'd
ding gowns are now a-making on Fifth ave-
nue., has decided to make their Innings, in
stead OF an Il c1ssory, feature. They are
all silk. of course. Sometimes they harmO-
nizn, oitener they contrast wildly with the
stuff they accompany. For instance, a re-
ceEtion gown OF black royale is lined, waist
and skirt, with exquisite old-rose satin.
rough cloth, whose olive surface Is blotched
with tint that looks like nothing so much
as an autumn leaf in which frost has left
but the ghost OF its scarlet flame, has for its
lining a high light of the same tender color.
A water-green silk is lined with palest sea-
shell pink and q yellow that CLOVIS like live
sunshine shows inside something that re-
calls mauve veil laid lightly over the heart
of silver pink rose.
This same lovely bride has gown or two
worth a paragraph-even as to their out
side. For example, a morning gown of the
richest clear red wool, so fine and close of
weft il puts satin to the blush. 1t is cut to
sit close in the back with demi-train edged
with a silKeG quilting exactly matching its
color. The front is of soft, thick-ribbed
gray silk, with triple-clustered stripes of
white and red. 1t is gathered full into
broad gray collar and shrred in diamond
pattern to the shape OF the bust Over this
the red Gol fa1I3 in lOnp iapkat fronts that
ruflles whose soft gray exactly matches the
fronts. There are bell sleeves OF the red
and ose-fitting gray ones that are finished
with frilI of old lace deep enough TO fall
over the hand. A street gown Of black Bed
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Nelc De.iaas for litlknerr.

Among the most striking was the blue
theviot, bound with tawny orange, lately
chosen for new brides g0ing-away gown.
A vest OF dull blue silk was let into the
plain close-fltlDg round bodice, over which
the close bel-skirt fastened. Bishop sleeves
of the cheviot gathered tull into loose
waistband pass easily up and down over
the tight blue silk undersleeves.
The bishop sleeve, by the way. is fashions
latest caprice-and ever 50 much more fash
ionable than the bell-sleeve of the recent
past. II is perfectly straight, deeply
rounded at the top, gathered very full in
the armhoe and at the wrist into band
big enough 10 slip easily over the hand and
forearm. Underneath it fashion DEGREES
tight coat sleeve of either contrasting OF
harmOniZng color.
Very many such were seen at the horse
show. 1t is ancient history now. but all the
fashionable world aud his wife were on
dress parade. so it is worth while to tell of
the gowns. One of the four hundred was
no end stylisn in a gown of fine gray cloth.
made as a ,ong casque, with big outside
pockets and rows of enameled buttons that
might have leen heirlooms, and were GER
talnly works Of art. The casque fastened
over handsG ne white waistcoat sown with
tiny real jewels, each in its separate setting
upon tiny spiral spring. The hat was OF
black felt with outstanding black velvet
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
ools and bird with outstretched wing

looIs and bird with outstretched wings.
gown even more notable had beige
ground with ring pattern of moonlight blue
upon it. The mauve skirt had a border of
shaggy maTmot fur. In front there was
coquille of moonlight blue velvet, heavily
emb Oidered in gold, and at the back OF the
neck bow OF moonlight blue velvet rib
bon whose ends reached quite to the hem.
There were perhaps dozen hunter green
with sable trimming Yarousy applied.
That is indeed quite the combination OF the
minute-th0ugh all sorts of shaggy and
curly furs are high in favor as trimming.
There " as damsel gorgeous in dull red
and yellow tan-so much so indeed that she
recalled an autumn forest. The bell skirt
of shaggy red cloth had at the foot three
scant Dutfs of velvet just matching its color
A puff of the same velvet hid the junction
of waist and skirt. The bodice was of the
richest golden tan with jewpled passemen-
terle inwrought upon the stuff. The bonnet
was wreath of ostrich tips. shading from
red.to yellOw-brown with scintillant spanges
flashing from each feathery stand.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Deaths During the Week.

During the week ending yesterday there
were 137 deaths in this city, as against 139
for the corresponding week dnring tile pre-
vious year. Among the principal causes of
demise were: Ap0plexy 2. bronchitis 6,
cancer 8. Group 4, diphtheria 6. typhoid fever
8, heart disease y, inanition 8, phthisis 20,
pneumonia Is, consumption 20. There was
one homicide and four casualties.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

The word uipil is from the Maya language
spoken in Guatemala, Honduras and Yucca
tan. The garment thus called has been in
use for many centuries throughout Central
America, down to Darien. The MAYA
women, who were, and are yet, renowned
for their good looks and fine figures, refuse
TO adopt any different shaped dress; those
who can afford it make their uipils costly
with embroidery and lace, though the body
CT the garment is always cotton or linen.
snow white. But the uipil can be made of
any stuff or color, and it is the easiest. most
delightful garment imaginable for warm
weather, and for winter. too. If made OF
wooden goods Furthermore, ii is as easy to
lion as a towel
1t requires two yards of 36-inch material
In the very middle of the piece cut hole
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

The December number of 1.-The Ladies' Home
journal OF Philadelphia is a model issue, and il
appears In new cover printed in deep red on
background OF deep gray. Attractive as the new
cover Is II IS not more so than The varied con-
readers for whom IL is specially edited feat
ure OF this issue Is contribution by Mamie
Dickens, the fayOrlte daughter of The great
novelist II Is the first story she has ever writ.
ten and possesses an interest all its own.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

All sizes and styles now in stock Of the fol-
lowing well-known brands; 7. D. C.
p. THOMS0N'S. DIR. WARMERS,
DIR. STRONG'S, r. Il Il, H. Il ). and
FERRIS BROTHERS GOOD SENSE
CORSET WAISTS. which we will offer
at the lowest possible prices.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Rnsh for Positions

1t was rumored yesterday that Mayor
Sanderson would call special meeting of
the new Board of Health for tomorrow to
declare certain minor nostions vacant and
make appointments. The rush for positions
continues, and fifty applications were filed
yesterday.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

the ROlhschds in the early part OF the present
century. Another feature is the graphic nara
tive of visit to THE SeminOles at Home" in
the Florida everglades, by Caroline Washburn
lockwood, author of an Bscayau Bay" ard
profusely illustrated from photographs (the first
ever taken of these Seminole braves by MIR.
Thomas a. Hine.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

One hundred guests joined with b. F.
Harris of West Richmond. Ind, in celebrat-
father of nine children, the Oldest aged 70
and the youngest 90.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
TO WE'D A DUKE.

Miss Matte Mitchell of Washington, d.
c., to Become n Duchess.
The announcement is made of the en-
ga gement of Miss Matte Mitchell, Wash
ington ID. c. belle, daughter of Senator
Mitchell Of Oregon, to Duke Francois de la
R)chefoucauld of France, ana that the
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

lOuuu, square OF -SldpSu-
just large enough to slip over
the head without disturbing
the hair. Tie Mayas always
make the opening square.
Now, double the stuff and sew
the straight edges together,
leaving an opening on each
side at the top for the arms TO
go through. Hem the lower
edge, neck and arm holes, and
all is done. The long, straight
shoulder-seam falls nearly to
the elbow, serving as sleeve,
causing the sides of the gar
ment to hang lower than the
back or front, producing folds
and the peplum effect. Made
of China or India silk, the
uipil is lovely, especially wher
trim M ab with tana IN. NJ.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29


R
tin an II
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
In QUIET DAYS
OF NOVEMBER.
New WlinS and FanGiGS to Make
FairGr the Fair Sex.
Gowns With the Bloom Of Hills and Heather
Innings as a Feature Some Party Gowns.
Fitth-kvenue Troussaau.
Special to THE SUNDAY CALL.

Nowadays it is hard to say which is the
more gorgeous and glaring, the shOp-win-
dows or the women they lure inside. The
windows TEEN with heavy, shaggy stnffs for
street wear-camePs-hair, soft as velvet,
sheeny as silk; friezes and cheviots, with
the bloom Of Scotch hills and heathers over
laying their grounds of brown OF gray or
olive. They are new; what is better. they
are SO much SO that you recognize them at
once as the textile expression of a new and
beautiful thought There is wonderful in
dividuality in the ground-cOlors The grays
are cold or warm or demure or freakisA,
the browns run the gauntlet betwixt the
sorrowful dead-leaf tint and the peskY joy
BUSINESS of gold color, as the angry fumes of
burnt orange. Many are overlad with
splashes and blotches, either contrasting or
tarmonizing with the ground. Others show
rings, stripes or broad, uneven patches Of
deep blue or deeper red.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
FOSTER KID GLOVES.

At SIPS.
LADIES J-H0OK FOSTER KID GLOVES
in cOlored and black, reduced to 81 %
a pair.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
EASILY MADE AND COMFORTABLE.
The UlDll for Wear In Ones Own Room Hasn't
an Equal in Garments.

OMEN who have lit
tie time for sewing
and little money to
spend can find great
comfort in their own
room by wearing a III
Pill. This can be made.
even by hand, in less
than an hour, and is
far more comfortable,
as we'll as more artis-
tic, than any dressing
sack. There is no
cutting-out to be done
and no fastenings are
rpouira6
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
CORSETS! CORSETS :!
At Sl.OO.

At Sl.O0.
3 cases Of OUR CELEBRATED DR. WAR
NER'S GYPSY CORSETS to hand, in
black only, which ill be sold this week
at 81.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At SI.25.

We will offer this week our wel-known c.
b. LUCILLE CORSET. long WASTED,
French model, in dIab. good value for
81 70.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

Mrs. Anna Morrison Reed of LaytonvlIle, Men
docino County, well and fayorably known not
only IN the northern part OF California, but the
United States over, as 1.-The Poetess of the
North" a term applied TO her in recognition of
the many beautiful gems of thought expressed In
verse which shs has written, Will shortly publish
volume of her later-day poems, some thirty of
them, and the Work will be n handsome volume
for u gill BOOK for the holidays.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
FRENCH STRONG WINE,

Mr.. Povvvnew-Don't you find this wine
very stronge
Mr. Van Bibber-Well, it ought to be,
after two ocean voyages-frOm San Fran.
cisco to Bordeaux and back to New York
Puck
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At Sl,25.

leo dozen LADIES SWISS RIBBED
SHIRTS, high neck, long sleeves,
white, natural aud pink, large sizes,
regular price 81 90.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At $3.50.

LADIES' RIBBED COMBINATION
SUITS, white and natural, sizes 2, 8
and 4, good value for So.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

dialogue form, which make so clear the points
presented that the most INEXPERIENCED person
cannot fall 10 underst and them. The book Is
made as elementary and simple as poSsbe-cOn-
tanning all the minute details OF presiding, of
debating, OF making motions. of voting, etc,
etc.-while at the same time 1t omts nothing
which is essential to knowledge of the pr!nci-
ples rules and practice OF parliamentary law.
In these days when SO many women organ
tZlng all over the country, THIS book, which care
fully explains and illustrates The various TOPICS
treated, viii be found most helpful. Offered by
Samuel Carson & Co,
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
AT SI.0O.

THOMSON'S Il. II. LONG WASTED
C0RSETS, this week 81
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

CHILDREN'S SHIRTS AND DRAWERS
in white, natural and scarlet. in merino
and all-wool, sizes IS to 81 inches, at
VERY LOW PRICES.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

- - and the effect is very pretty.
noe u ,o ,t 'he" Sleeves could be added. if
desired, and ribbon tied
around the waist.-ALICE d. LIE PLoNGEoN
in Pittsburg Dispatch.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

Catalogue be
Umbrel
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

" Into and Out of InfideliIy" is brochure OF
thirly-three pages that has been published by
the d. II. Rank Publishing Company of Indian
apolis. In IL The account is told by himself of
tie conversion of Elijah Z. Brown, editor OF
The Rams horn," a publication that presents
religious matters in manner that Is interesting
to all. The work named tells how Mr. Brown
became an intidel, how he discovered the error
of his ways and returned to the Christian fold
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At SI.OO.

At $I.OO.
100 dozen LADIES JERSEY RIBBED
WOOL VESTS, high neck, long sleeves.
in white and natural, warranted not to
shrink, all sizes, goo value for ST. %.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Gloves! Gloves!

Gloves! Gloves!
AT SOC.
200 dozen LADIES' 7-BUTTON LENGTH
rBlARRlTZ KID GLOVES in medium
and dark brown, extra good value for
7Jc, Will be offered at soc a pair.
AT 75c.
175 dozen LADIES' 7-BUTTON LENGTH
BIARRITZ GLOVES IN dressed and
uhdreSsed kid, in dark and medium
colors, also black, extra good value for
III, will be offered at 75c pair.
At Use.
165 dozen LADIES' S-BUTTON LENGTH
QUETAlRE UNDRESSED KID
GLOVES, in tan cnlors, also black,
worth regular 81 %, will be offered at 75c
pair
AT Sl.0O.
$50 dozen LADIES 4-BUTTON UN-
DRESSED KID GLOVES, in dark,
medium and tan colors, also black worth
regular 81 80. will be offered a. ST pair
At Sl.25.
125 dozen LADIES 6-BUTTON UN-
DRESSED KID GLOVES, in medGm
and tan coorS, also black, worth regular
81 IS, will be offered 81 % pair.
At SI.5O.
100 dozen LADIES' 6-BUTTON READ
KID GLOVES, in dark, medium and
tan colors, also black, worth regular s.,
will be offered at ST 80 pair.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At S{,S0.

LADIES' 7-HOOK FOSTER KID GLOVES
in colored and black, reduced to 81 &c
pair.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At Sl.25.

At Sl.25.
125 dozen LADIES 6-BUTTON UN-
DRESSED KID GLOVES, in medicm
and tan colors, also black, worth regular
81 10, will be offered 81 % a pair.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

ace. I he Maya women nut
deep lace all around the
| lower edge and wide-colored
insertion above it, as we'll as
around the square neck.
III preferred, the neck
could be cut round and much
larger then bound and a rib
bon run through it So as to
gather it full at the throat.
This shortens the shoulders
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

CLOTH ASTRACHAN BANDS, /, ~. 3,
and inches. at 25c, 4Oc, Soc Coo and
75e per yard,
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

At OOc.
100 dozen LADIES' MERINO SHIRTS, ex-
ira heavy ribbed tails, high neck, long
sleeves. size 2S to 40 inches, drawers
ankle length to match, good value
for soc.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
At Sl.NO.

$50 dozen LADIES 4-BUTTON UN-
DRESSED KID GLOVES, in dark,
medium and tau colors, also black, worth
regular 81 80. will be offered al ST pair
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Magazine and other Notes.

"Scribner's Magazine" for December is out in
an Illuminated cover and il Is designated as tile
Christmas number. II Is Tiled with excellent
sketches, illustrated aud otherwise. The leading
article Is "Atioat on the Nilr," very entertain
ing sketch of life on that historical river.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29
Ladies': ClIdr9l'S UndGpWear

Ladies' :::ClldrGl'S UndGrVGar
At 65c.
100 dozen LADIES' MERINO SHIRTS, ex-
ira heavy ribbed ills, high neck, long
sleeves, size 2S to 40 inches, drawers
ankle length to match, good value
for soc.
At $I.OO.
100 dozen LADIES JERSEY RIBBED
WOOL VESTS, high neck, long sleeves.
in white and natural, warranted not to
shrink. all sizes. goo value for ST. %.
At $I.25.
leo dozen LADIES SWISS RIBBED
SHIRTS, high neck, long sleeves.
white, natural aud pink, large sizes,
regular price 81 90.
AT $3.50.
LADIES' RIBBED COMBINATION
SUITS, white and natural, sizes 2,
and 4, good value for So.
CHILDREN'S SHIRTS AND DRAWERS
in white, natural and scarlet in merino
and Atwood, sizes IS to 81 inches, at
VERY LOW PRICES.
CORSETS! CORSETS!
At Sl.O0.
cases Of OUR CELEBRATED DIR. WAR
NER'S GYPSY CORSETS to hand, in
black only, which ill be sold this week
at 81.
At SIPS.
We will offer this week our well-knOwn c.
b. LUCILLE CORSET. long WASTED,
French model, in dIab, good value for
81 Is.
AT $I.OO.
THOMs0N'S r. II. LONG WASTED
CORSETS, this week 81.
All sizes and styles now in stock Of the fol-
lowing well-knOwn brands: 7. d, c..
p. THOMSON'S. DIR WARMERS,
DIR. STRONG'S, r. Il Il, II. Il ). and
FERRIS BROTHERS GOOD SENSE
CORSET WAISTS. which we will offer
at the lowest possible prices
---------------zz 81
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-29

joaquin Miller's new story, THE Red Shield. +"
Is published entire aud exclusively in the Christ.
mas (Decemher) number of Frank Lesle's Pop
ular Monthly" Ii Is a dramatic aud highly
co0red romance drawn from The exciting history
OF the foundation OF 1.-The great banking.house of
The morning call., 1891-06-23
FRESH AIR AT NIGHT.
1t Is Absolutely Necessary to Dispers'
NOxiOus ExhaIstiOns.

1t Is Absolutely Necessary to Dispense
NOxiOUs EXhalstiOns.
1t is really remarkable the prejudice which
exists among persons, otherwise sensible and
intelligent, against night air, says the New
York Times. They consider breath of it
while sleeping as something to be carefully
guarded against. Yet science has announced
and experience justified the fact that at no
time in the twenty-fouT hours is the air Of a
crowded city so wholesome and pure as after
IL o'clock. This is specially true during the
warm spring and summer months, when the
setting of the sun aud the consequent cool
ing process which the earth Immediately
begins, sends of vapOrs and eXhalatons in
vitiating quantities. After two or three
hours the atmosphere is rid of its impurities
and clear TO noticeable degree.
This air should come into our sleeping
rooms cOplOusly, not in direct draught upon
the bed. but for free circulation through the
apartment. Happily, nowadays, most
private houses are built with transom to the
bedrooms, and it is easy 10 set the air NOV
ing. Such, however, as are obliged to Oc-
c0py one Hindowed sleeping groom. with
out transOm. will find good air circulation
by lowering the window from the top and
raising il from the bottom.
The ventilation of the sick-roOm Is an
other subject in which most persons have
bot duhdlceu ilViH the Olu-IaSHiOntu HOLion
that air direct from the outer atmosphere is
to be avoided. q trained nurse Will tell
you that she fights this obstinately clung-to
tenet in nine families out Of ten to which
she goes. Yet Who 50 much needs tie vital
ity and strengthening qualities of fresh air
IS patient struggling with disease?
1t was refreshing TO encounter a sensible
mother the other day, who has recently
brought her two boys through scarlet fever,
and hear ner tell how every two or three
hours she covered them up, leaving Just
breathing space. and filled the room with
fresh air IL was doubtless an important
factor IN their easy eonvalescence and entire
freedom from the too often serious after =
math Of this dread disease