The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-06-28
THE PRETTY TOWN OF GRAssE.
where Queen Victoria Goes to Escape
the Breezy English SnrinS.

IL may be interesting to those unfamiliar
Win the Riviera to have a description of
the beautiful place where the queen of
England has been enjoying holiday,
reveiing In the warmth and sunshine in
stead OF in cold and east winds, the in
variable attendant of an English spring.
Grasse, an ancient stronghold Of the
Celto-Ligurian tribes, is a picturesque old
town situated on the natural terrace of q
hill which slopes upwards behind and
forms solid background and protection
from the north winds, which would
otherwise sweep with biting keen
ness from the snow mountains
beyond. In front the hill slopes down.
wards by gentle undulations until
the sea level is reached, about eleven miles
distant The view from the town is
very lovely one. A few scattered villages
lie dotted here and there, and nestle
snugly In some warm sheltered nook, or,
occasionally, like Mougins, stands clear,
and outlined against the sky on the top of
some commanding hill. From such places
of vantage the inhabitants could, in the
olden days when the Saracens were the
curse of the country, keep constant watch
on the waters below to see
that no enemy landed to at
tack them unawares. The raids of
these marauders were not for wealth or
provisions, which they would not have
found among this poor, hard-living peo-
pie, but for the capture of the strong,
handsome men and women, whom they
carried off as slaves. Only as far back as
the early part of this century the Turks
and Moors of Tunis and Algiers periodi-
cally ravished this coast, plundering fish
ing boats and sailing vessels of their
human cargo whenever they could lay
hands on them. These village Businesses
are built with narrow, tortuous streets,
the houses high and huddled together in
wonderful confusion, and surrounded by
a thick wall for defence. Arches thrown
across from house to house are supposed, by
some, to be the means of escape in case of
an attack, by others, to strengthen the
buildings from the rough shakings of
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. enemy which from
time to time visits this coast and spreads
terror among its peaceful inhabitants.
Besides these picturesque little villages,
which on account of their old associations
the mind delights to dwell on. and re-peo-
pie in imagination with inhabitants of by
gone centuries, the eye rests with pleasure
on the terraces Of olive, lemon and orange
groves, which cover great parts of the
hillsides and testify to the industry of this
hard-working southern race.
A little to the right slopes the pine-clad
Tanneron range, and beyond the beautiful
Esterel mountains-the pride of the
French Riviera-with their ever varying
tlnts and shadows; the delight and
despair of artists who never succeed in
getting the same light and coloring
second time, so variable are the changes.
To the left lies Observatory hill above
Cannes with mountains rising behind.
Cap Antilles stretches its narrow neck of
land far out into the blue sea, and beyond,
with white houses cleaning in the sun
light, nestles Nice snug and contented
around its beautiful bay. As far as the
eye can reach sparkles the deep blue of the
Mediterranean sometimes angry and COW
cred with white-caps, at other times
smooth. calm and lovely without ripple
on its surface.
Early risers will be rewarded by an occa-
sional view of Corsica, that phantom-like
island which appears sometimes at sunrise
with its mountain ranges distinctly visible,
outlined by the sun behind. Gradually all
fades away, and remembrance only is left.
Corsica is also, but very rarely, seen at sun
set and in the middle of the day.
The drives round Grasse are varied and
beautiful. Perhaps the most popular one
is to the picturesque village of Point du
Loup, named from the bridge which at
this point spans the Loup, a stream of
great force and speed, supplied by the
snow waters of the Alps beyond. Point du
Loup is at the entrance of the famous
Gorge du Loup, a place which will
well repay the exertions of those
who can walk, and who desire to
form nearer acquaintance with the bold
magnihcence of this striking gorge. A
narrow path following the twists and
turns of the stream ascends gradually,
crossing from side to side over frail-look-
ing wooden bridges; on each side tower
massive rocks of wonderfully rich color
ing. some ragged and bare of any vegeta-
ton, others covered with trees and shrubs.
Low down by the waters edge delicate
maiden-hair ferns trail their elegant leaves,
forming patches of bright green-a tan
talizing spectacle when, as is mostly the
case, the ferns are unapproachable. Vio-
lets from every nook and Granny meet us
at each turn with their delicious fra
GRANGE. Hepaticas, with their exqui-
site blue. coloring the rocks on
which they grow, and many other shrubs
and plants rare TO us help to make the
walk along this deep-cut, rocky gorge a
most enjoyable undertaking. About two
miles up corner is turned abruptly and
an unexpected sight comes into view
From an overhanging rock high above the
path mass of water, rushing and roar
ing. dashes itself into the torrent below.
flashing its waters into white, angry foam.
The path leads behind the waterfall, and
is rallied in by stout iron ratings
1t is curious sight to look
through the descending mass of
water, dense and concentrated in
the middle and spreading out and
falling like a shower of rain on the con-
trary side from which the wind happens
TO blow. Unless on a very calm day, an
umbrella and cloak are necessary to pre-
vent being soaked before reaching the
back of the fall. The walk can be ex-
tended 10 another waterfall some miles
further up the gorge.
Every visitor TO Grasse should see over
the wonderful distilleries so famous all
over the world. Miles of flowers Guilt
waited in the neighborhood form a source
of profit to the peasants around. These
gathered in the early dewy mornings, are
stored in the vast underground cellars of
the town before the sun has risen TO dry
up the delicate leaves Here they await
their turn to be converted into scents and
essences.
Candled fruits of every description are
preserved al Grasse. and il is interesting
TO see the different processes through
which these have 10 pass before they are
ready 10 pass muster as ut adornment for
the luxurious tables of the rich.
As q rule the greatest number Of visitors
10 the Riviera leave Just AT the most beau
tiful part of the year. People hurry off
early in April, and probably undo the
COED effects of their winters STAY in the
south by returning too soon to colder eli-
mates. The queen of England extended
her visit three tunes, as If 10th 10 tear her
self away. Those who follow suit. and re-
main till the latest possible date, will be
rewarded, and acknowledge gratefully the
charm and delight of spring in the sunny
south NJ A Z.