San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1891-09-05
If You are Not Young.


Black is usually safe, but there are
also many colors which become the
complexion of middle age. Most reds
suit fair women as well as brunettes
past their prime, but green's are only
suited TO dark women. The deep, full
grass green now worn in velvet may
be chosen safely by almost any COM
plexion, and elderly women should
bear in mind that rich materials are
suited to them; that velvets plain
and brocsded silks of the best texture
lend dignity to age, and that in man.
tells as we'll as dresses splsndor of de-
tail should not be ignored Lawn is
a favorite color now, but ii is young
woman's shade, unless it be loaded
with Jet or gold trimmings. 1t is bet
ter " nave one handsome gown a
year, and rich mantel in three years
than to choose many unimpressive
toilets for those who have passed the
heyday of youth.
Care must be taken in choosing the
patterns of the materials worn by
stout figures. Horizontal lines must
be most carefully avoided, long
staIght panels diminish the apparent
size, and great care must be taken in
hanging the skirt, especially if it be a
plain one. Long shallow plaits ought
to be inserted at the back of the hips
and it should be so managed that a
few soft horizontal folds fall about a
quarter of yard below the waist in
front, Disgusting the outlines OF the
figure, The present style of cutting
| the skirt on the cross Is help in this
class of dressmaking, but striped ma
terials must not be chosen, and on no
account must the fabric be fitted to
the waists without plaits, as now
by young people. The cross cut
materials are generally more elastic.
The best way of trimming a bodice
is to have either braces or long reverse
on either side, narrowing at the waist
covering the front darts. A stripe
down the center:hiding the fastenings
is also good. Long graceful lines
must be chosen in the arrangement
of any drapery on the bodice, and
short, sleeveless Jackets are 10 be
avoided. POlOpaise skillfuliy man
aged diminish the apparent size; and
though the present long coats cut the
figure, and should be avoided by
those who are short aud stout, they
are admirable for tall stout women,
A girdle placed low about the hips,
in the hands of skillful dressmaker
may be made to lessen the size of the
wearer, while unskillfuly treated IT
will Increase IL. The present style of
wearing chiffon on the front OF the
bodice enhances the charms of middle
age; and often ii is an advantage to
trim one side, and then carry the
f,.lI of fri 10 nf
now worn can be used with good
effect if they are made to end at the
| side and not carried in front, but it
must be borne in mind that If the
hips are big everything must be done
to lie sen their apparent size, and any
extra trimming Oh the hips IL calcu-
lated to enlarge the figure. Nothing
must be tightly grit in at the waist.
Long jackets with jet drops soften the
outlines, and stout women, in try
ing on both bodice and skirt, should
test the effect seated as we'll as stand
ing.
The sleeves must on no account be
made overnight or broad, and women
with short necks should be specially
careful on this point. For tea gowns
the long pendant sleeves are desire
able. In mantles long sides prove to
be a great help to short stout figures
With hats and bOnnets much must
be left to the individual. Probably 1t
will ne apparent that 1t is advisable
to disguise the nape Of the neck ana
the lines which will show beneath the
chin. This will make it necessary for q
bonnet to be con tinued low down IN the
neck, and strings made of black lace
or chiffon should be tied beneath the
chin. 1t is only quite old ladies who
will reconcile themselves to wearing
strings to CABS. but the same result
may be produced by encircliDg the
throat with soft diaphauous materials.
ii l. I; nnl n re