Morning journal and courier., 1891-03-13
pushed up full around the armhOie) are

pushed up full around the armhoie) are the models most used
 Many of the new bodices are finished at the bottom in square or oblong tabs, some are vandyked, and others are leaf-shaped. with embroidery layished upon them. El- egant Paris waists have superb lattice fringes sewed beneath the crenelated or pointed edges, jet, or & glittering rain of gold or iridescent beads, showing between the tabs or Vandyked pieces
 Despite all predictions to the contrary, the fourreau gowns hold their own, and the general appearance of fashionable skirts remains the same, long and plain over the hips and falling in deep folds at the back. The trying plainness on the front and sides is relieved by elaborate embroideries, crenelated trimmings with embroidered edges en applique and Louis AlN. draperies. Then, again, the Louis AN. vests or habits a Ia Francais modify to very great extent the extreme flatness of the fourreau skirt round the hips.
 Stripes are exhibited on every side, and on rich fabrics the satin stripe alternates with one brocaded with Marie Antoinette garlands, or has single blossoms scattered over the rich surface. The plain stripes are generally reserved for combination mAbA bubAAAf NA nAN4A ~ terial such as crepon, shot gauge or clair cite
 There is demand just now for odd bits of jewelry, and leading jewellers are put ting forth great stock of fancy jewelry to be donned after Easter. These gems and costly trinkets will be worn in the daytime, which is one of the greatest of solecisms in dress. Under pretext of fash ionable necessity for bonnet-pins, buckles, slides, Cleopatra bangles, chatelaines, kecklets and hair ornaments, gold and jewels will be freely worn. It is said, however, that diamonds will be an excep- tion, and will be kept for special wear"
 The old-time French organdies, as trans parent as gauge, with charming designs of tea-roses, buds, carnations, violets, pan sies and trailing vines, will be in high fashion next summer. They will be called Pompadour muslins. The finest qualities imported are rather expensive, but they make most lovely toilets, and few beau tiful dresses already made of the French weaves have trimmings of rich lace ar ranged as skirt fiounce, fichu panier drs- pery and sleeve jockeys.
 A novel way of treating a dress skirt, while in no manner destroying the sheath like appearance which fashion affects, is to slash it from hem to waist on the right SlUS Just lew lnCnes, IOuT or from the bodice point. Beneath, on the foundation, lay a few folds of silk or vel vet to simulate an underskirt, and then tie the edges of the upper dress with ribbon bows and short ends. If desired, more elaboration may be supplied by putting a narrow galioen round the edge of the dress and carrying it up either side of the opening.
 Sleeves are still very important fea- ture, giving much cachet to the gown. Flemish, Hungarian, Greek, Russian and many more picturesque models appear on new dress toilets and day gowns as well. Velvet caps or half-sleeves, either upper or lower, are more fashionable than velvet sleeves entire. The leg o'-mutton and bishop sleeves will be very popular on airy summer textiles, the style. being more ap- propriate to thin than thick textiles. Mus lin sleeves, striped or lowered, will be fin ished with daintily embroidered caps and cuffs. The yoke and collar will be like wise decorated.
 Henri Deux ruffs of lace are sent home with many of the seasons new gowns, either black or bright hued. They are made of pleated point d'esprit, chenille dotted mesh net, coquilled lace about six inches wide. These ruffs take the place of the fur or feather boa, and form a most becoming frame for the face. The ruffs in color are very pretty, but there are none that prove such a foil as the black ones. Not few of the rich black net dresses hare fills oI iuchss matching the ruff at the foot of the skirt, with mar rower frills double-boS pleated and set straight around the edge the sleeve at the wrists.
 Very pretty looked a bride at a quiet Lenten wedding dressed in white cloth made with 8 princesse coat without basques, and worn with little white vel vet bonnet trimmed with snowdrops and a cluster of Farm viole,s. \ spray of nat ural whit. roses and viulets d,-c,srated the cursaGe. and the hand -bouiu,-t of roses and snowdrops was tied with broad white satin ribbon. The bridesmaids wore mauye cloth gowns msdc with white silk waistcoats and deep Cavalier cuffs embroi- dered with silver; their white hats were faced with violet velvet and trimmed with white pjumus, q large jeweled dagger be ing thrus: through iae velvet at the back of the hat. Each b. idesmaid carried one of tho n"w R-au BrGmmel canes of white satinwoo'l capped with geld; bunch of violets WAS secured ;o the toD uf the cane by long satin ribbon streaners
 Bonnets and hats thus far present a cu- riOuU mixture uf former styles and fash ions, with several lew features, but with no very radical departure in style, con- tour or garniture. There are large Rem brandt models for next season, and many small ones with brims distorted and twist ed pictCrcsquely awry. Pretty little toques of satin braid or Milan straw are dotted with small gold bOds, and trimmed with gold and straw passementerie laid over velvet. Some of the very dressy French bonnets are mere floral headdress- es: few models are very F-snchy, and yet it cannot be denied that coming from such artistic hands, and suitably and ap- PropriGtely worn, the effect of all this me lange of lace and blossom is most attrac- tive. Lovely straw PassementeIie bonnets are shown, which are simply n great i'm prOvement in tint and pattern of the an tique open-worh straws of Tuscan braid worn by our grandmothers. Long pins are indispensable for fastening stringless bonnets. and pretty styles are made with heads of straw tO match the straw of the bonnet. Fancy straw models in toques and bonnets for the coming season are made in colors, mixed or not, to tone with tweed and cheviot travelling and walking costumes.
 NIT. Betts' Cyclone AnnihiIator.
 From the Chicago InfeT-Oc