Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-07-19


so near that we might almost touch them
with our hands, and the surf beat so fright
fully upon them that returning waves kept
the ship rolling as when on the unsheltered
ocean.
| Getting Posted ON It's History.
! Sleep was out of the question, so little
group Of Americans begUiled the hours Of
darkness by reading Robinson Crusoe"
aloud to one another, in the uncertain light
of swaying lanterns. Somebody had brought
along 1.-TWO Years Before the Mast, " writ
ten by Mr.. Richard II. Dana, Jr., who WIS.,
tied this place in 1885, in the course of his
memorable voyage to California-and de-
lighted US with extracts from that charming
| book relating to the authors experiences
here.
sAnother passenger had the later book of
Mr.. j. Ross Browne, called "Crusoe's
Island, " and elected unmeasured applause
by reading how that distinguished man felt
when he first set foot upon Juan Fernandez.
He writes: "I was one who had fought for
poor Robinson in my boyish days as the
| greatest hero that ever breathed; who had
| always, even to mans estate, secretly cher
| ished the belief that Alexander the Great,
Julius Cesar, and ali the warriors of an
| tiquity were commonplace persons COM
| pared to him; that Napoleon Bonaparte, the
Duke of Wellington, Tecumseh, and all the
| noted statesmen and soldiers of modern
| times were not to be mentioned in the same
day with so extraordinary a man, and now
l, who had always regarded him as the
| most truthful as well as the very sublimest
| of adventures, was the entranced beholder
of his abiding place-walking and seeing on
the very spotl Talk of goldl Why, / tell
you, dear friends, that all the gold of Cali
fornia was not worth the ecStatic bliss Of
that moment"
A Sight Worth All the Journey.
Next morning all hands were on deck to
see the sun rise over the hills or Juan Fer
nandez, and when the thick vapors that
shrouded the island were lifted, scene of
beauty was disclosed worth coming far to
see. Beyond the abrupt walls of rock that
towed 1000 feet straight out of the sea,
were mountains whose tops were bathed in
the glory of morning, their sides covered
with greenest vendure and golden fields Of
wild oats, their feet hidden in groves Of
myrtle, corkwood and pimento. Farther
inland, great peaks of reddish stone lowered
to the clouds, silvery cascades leaped down
to the ocean, and snowy foam outlined the
shores where the surf beat in measured
swells like the voice of distant Niagara.
The ravines showed focks and herds and
cultivated fields, and in the central valley
nestled amid blooming orchards, were the
bamboo straw-thatched cottages of the in
habitants, looking like 30 many huge bird
cages.
There is but one spot in all the northern
coast, which is the side of the island usually
approached, where the rocks open wide
enough to admit the smallest vessel. This
single inlet is named Cumberland Bay, and
nearly all the rest of the shore is inaccessi-
81
the water, where wailing winds and moan
ing surf keep up perpetual dirge for the
thousands of sailors who have been
wrecked in sight of safety. The ridges Of
the cliffs slope upward as they recede in
land, forming q series of smaller valleys
above, whose tints are diversified with yell
low oats, emerald groves and red-burnt
earth, the latter rent in countless assures by
many earthquakes.
A Breakfast Of Fresh Cod.
As soon as hasty breakfast could be dis
patched, of course of baccallao (cod fsh),
caught from the deck, which in all South
America is considered the greatest of deli
cacies-what terrapin, Potomac shad, brook
trout and reed birds are to Northern palates
the boats were lowered, and with joyful
speed we clambered down into them and
were rowed ashore. The waters of Cumber-
ldHu are dllVc WIFI usu, anu
so clear that one can see the sandy bottom
at a depth of several fathoms. The mossy
rocks along the shore are swsrming with
seals, walruses and other marine animals,
besides such "small fry" as shrimps, lob
sters, mussels and cray fish. They tell US
that an equal abundance of food may be
found inland-fruits of many kinds, goats,
rabbits and birds-not to mention excellent
water and plenty of the best ship timber,
making the island q regular storehouse in
the midst of the sea, for the benefit Of
mariners who have survived the perils Of
Cape Horn, or are about to venture into
that storm-swept locality. Therefore, We
do not wonder that from earliest times 1t
has been also q popular resort for South
Sea buccaneers, who find it convenient to
put in here to obtain supplies and repair
damages.
You may consult dozen authorities and
not find two that agree in the measurement
of Juan Fernandez, nor hardly one which
tells you the truth, viz. that here is not
merely an leland, but group Of them,
which are collectively known as "Juan Fer
nandez," because discovered by Spaniard
of that name. In reality
There Are Two Islands
of nearly equal dimensions, and several
smaller ones. The largest-that lying near
est the mainland and the one commonly
visited-is no doubt that which De Foes
hero inhabited, and is II miles long by six
or seven wide. Though known to the world
at large as "Juan Fernandez" it is here
abouts called Masatierra, to distinguish it
from the next island in size, which is 80
miles distant and named Masafuero. Both
have similar physical features.
Even the goats have history. The first
attempt to locate a colony here was made by
the discoverer, Fernando himself, in the
year 1868. He endeavored to obtain patent
for his ''fnd" from the Government at
Lima; but failing to receive encouragement
in high places, he res olyed to form his own
settlement, and took several families to
Masatierra, who remained there some time |
and with whom he resided. The few goats
which they transported from Lima soon
stocked the island, none having existed
there before.
A War On ths Goats.
A great many years later, but nearly .
century ago-the goats having multiplied !
and replenished the earth as only goats can,
and pirates innumerable were resorting |
there to victual their ships with the flesh |
the Viceroy OF Chile and the President of |
Peru laid their two wise heads together to |
concoct some scheme for keeping those OBJ |
jectionable folk away from their distant
possession.
They could hit upon nothing better than
to remove the inducement, and to that end
they sent thither lot of bloodhounds, ex-
pecting them to exterminate the goats. But
the plans did not prove eminently success
full, for the dogs could not pursue the goats
among the mountain Businesses, where they
leap from crag to crag with astonishing