Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-08-29
WINE CIR @ W | N G.
The Great Industry Along the Sunlit
Borders of the Marine,
A BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE.
Its History From the Cultivation of the Grape
Until 1t Sparkles in the Glass-Care In Pick
ing tho Fruit-Greater Care in Treating the
Juice.
Written for The Evening Star.

Il AseA Aoh lie evening bter.
A LONG THE SUNLIT BORDERS OF THE
4 Marine where it winds through the heart
OF France lie several groups of low hills whose
soil, far too light and shallow to yield the
golden grain, yet seem specially adapted to the
uses OF the husbandmen. For tits upon this
region nature has set her royal seal, the magic
seal OF the vintage, and from the harvest yearly
gathered of these same hills the world is sup
Piled with that sparkling champagne, which
years hence being uncorked bubbles over with
the stored up sunshine sunk long ago into the
grape, bringing it to beauty and perfection.
Not until the last quarter of century has this
industry grown to be one Of such vast i'm
portance. 1t Is now one Of the most fruitful
sources OF industry, not only to proprietors Of
the land, but to all the neighboring peasantry.
AT the present writing in the department of
the Marine no less than 40, 700 acres are devoted
TO cultivation Of the vine. 1t is further esti-
mated that throughout the vine region, which
comprises all the heart of France, there are no
less than 5,OOO,O00 acres of vineyard, with the
proportion OF one vinedresser for every five
ana three-quarter acres of cultivated land.
Inc position of these vintage grounds, their
accessibility to air and water. the various COM
ponent elements of the soil and such like con-
sideratlons have naturally great influence upon
cnain OF nils are grown the white. red and
purple grape, also different species, whose
luscious well-hlled lobes present a black appear
ance. Curiously enough they are known as the
i haier grape from the appearance Of the young
leaves. as though sprinkled with -four. This
variety, producing only second rank of wine,
Is not used In the manufacture of champagne.
DIFFERENT METHODS OF CULTIVATION.
Inc various natures of the soil necessitate
different methods Of cultivation Along the
course OF the Marine, the mold being light and
shallow, receives and reflects most of the SUMS
rays, and on this account the vines are clipped
close, growing as though upon trellisses built
close to wall, the vine trunks here simiating
a ,rellls and the warm face of the soil acting as
the wall
In direct contrast to this method is that
adopted upon the deep rich earth of the hills,
which further down the rivers bend bear the
name OF st. Thierry. The vines are planted on
rising ground, attaining a taller growth and
requiring special care. Those lower slopes
which, from their protected position, escape
the spring frosts, produce the best wines But
whether high or low species Of cultivation be
adopted. the vines to be productive must re-
celve throughout the year unceasing care and
Generally the proprietors of large champagne
houses are owners of the VINEYARDS as well, and
the wlne-making establishments are adjacent
here are continually kept employed large
ioieo VI peOple. FROM january TO september
workmen are busy hoeing. pruning tilling,
bedding. propagating the cuttings, nipping su-
perhuous buds and building stone houses. Then
the regular harvest season begins. The year for
the vine dresser dates, not as with us from the
first, but from the last or st. Vinoents day.
at which time, the weather being favorable,
operations are begun by pruning. Toward the
last OF February cuttings are gathered into
bundles, which being sorted of those needed
for propagation the refuse is burnt
THE FIRST DIGGING.
In March is begun the first digging about the
vine: in this month also the vine is usually re-
budded. This is done with a hoe, a small hole
being dug under the stem, the workmen lowers
the plant by pressing downward with his foot
then filling up fresh soil to cover the first buds
or eyes OF the plant. In April the vines are
propped by oaken slaves. the earth ends Of
which have been charred and soaked in a solu-
ton OF sulphate of copper, 1000 being re-
qulred to the acre. A workman who is diligent
and expert will in the course of the day set up
5000 Of these slaves, which are regarded by
some proprIetors as great protection against
early frosts. Others again regard it as doubt
full If such protection can be considered re-
liable.
Between early dawn and sunrise occur the
destructive frosts, and various are the devices
adopted to ward off their ill effects. The most
successful consists in placing heaps of hay
dead leaves and branches six or seven rods
apart, care being taken that they be moderately
damp to prevent combustion. When it ap-
pears that frost is imminent the heaps on the
side OF the vineyard from whence the wind sets
In are lighted, and the impenetrable smoke
spreading over the vines produces the result Of
warming the atmosphere and changing the
dreaded frost into a beneficial dew. In case
no wind is astir. all the heaps are fired and the
same result obtained.
Often despite the utmost care many vines are
lost both by the early frosts of spring and by
the rafting hail Of the summer storms, which
like bold slayer devastates the land on every
Side, sweeping the broken vines PROSTATE upon
the earth. In addition to these destructive
elements the husbandman is ofttimes equally
powerless against the armies of insect marau-
ders different variety of which seem to sue
coed their predecessors with the change Of
every month.
Statistics show that phyllopera has, between
the years 1890 and 1891, increased in France
almost threefold. Thus despite most patient
work and care on the part Of the vine dresser,
the average yield per acre is from six to eight
hogsheads OF prepared wine. To this may be
added two-thirds as much again of secondary
wines or first taille" (pruning), second ''taille''
and 'rebeche" (second tilling). These last,
with the exception of the first ''taille," which
is frequently used in making sparkling wines.
are consumed by the proprietors and his vint-
age gatherers.
All over the globe. in many lands and by va
rious people the vine is cultivated, yielding pal
atable sparkling wines, yet nowhere save in the
famous champagne country, on the grape
crowned hills of the Marne can be raised that
fruit from whose crushed, juicy lobes springs to
life that bubbling effervesence known the world
over by the name taken from its own bright
hills and sunny vine-covered slopes
WHO DISCOVERED CHAMPAGNE
Dating as far back as 1858 can be traced the
manufacture Of champagne, and it is to the
jolly old Benedictine monk. Dom Perignow.
that we are indebted for its discovery Doubt
less many time as he bathed his smooth.
sleek body in the waters Of the river winding
by the monastery, had his mind been occupied
with far more weighty problems than this,
which alone outlasted all others, has handed
his name down to posterity as a benefactor to
the world. 1t may be that his fiat, round
belly, with good capon lined" felt the craving
for a something differing either from the light
or heavy wines then quaffed from flowing beak-
ers by his fellow monks. His observant mind,
taking note of how one sort of soil gave to pro-
duct sweetness, another fragrance or strength,
hit upon the idea of marrying the Juices
OF one vineyard with the crushed sweetness of
another. The preparation of champagne,
though varying IN many essential ways at the
present date from that practiced by the sage
old monk the marrying" process is yet held
Indispensable to the successful making of a
fine wine. The middle of September in
augurates the great vintage season, then
throughout all the surrounding districts of
Alsne, Ardemees and Sommes the country peo-
pie leave their hOusehnld cnrea Hpd ucrE to