River Falls journal. [volume] (River Falls, Pierce County, Wis.) 1872-2019, 1891-07-16
FOR AMATEUR DRESS-MAKERS.
Helpful Hints Getting Up Neat Cos
TUNES.

Helpful Hints on Getting Up Neat Cos
tunes.
A pretty fashion, when darts are
taken in the waists of thin fabrics
lace, grenadine. crepe or India Silks
to stud them thickly with jet nail-heads.
A single dart is taken on each side of
the front, and this is the second dart,
the fullness between being held in
gathers or lain in fiat overlapping plaits
A new way to dispose of the fullness in
front and back of bodices above the
waist line revives the old-fashioned
French gathers made by alternating
short and long stitches, thrusting for
ward the edges of the plaits, and laying
these very close together. This is most
effective on wool stuffs and thick silks.
French mOdistes are making dress
skirts closely gored in front and on the
sides, with bias back arranged in
new way that give stylish scantness at
the top and great breadth at the foot.
To get this effect. the back is composed
of three straight breadths of silk sewed
together, and hung to the belt from one
corner, instead of from their top. This
makes straight side next each gored
sue anu ltdsCS tic Oh
the back perfectly bias. The point at
the foot is cut off, and the end of the
skirt is gracefully rounded. 1t is well,
in making the back, TO cut off the up
per corner about eight inches across,
and gather this slightly, instead of lit
orally hanging the back from a point.
In double-width goods, such as ladies'
cloth, single breadth forms the back,
and the slanting seams seen in silk
skirts are thus avoided.
Economists who wish toremodel skirts
of Chantilly lace with scalloped edges
should cut off the worn scallops at the
foot, and add a gathered flounce of
lace. A similar flounee gathered to the
edge of the bodice will further freshen
the gown. A skirt of piece lace can be
given the appearance of having a flounce
at the foot of the front and sides by
slashing it upward from the lower edge
in five places, and inserting plated net
in each slit. The slash in the middle
of the front should be only six inches
deep and those toward the sides
lengthen gradually TO twelve inches.
A half-yard of net is plated in the
deepest slashes, while that in the mid
die is only ten inches wide. The plaits
are laid close together at the top. and
fan outward to the foot A low-knot
of jet heads each plat, and narrow jet
gimp, of which the bows are formed
crosses the skirt as if heading a fiounce.
Another good plan for the economist
is to remodel her black skirts of surah
or faille or of lace to wear with a single
pretty coat bodice of black foulard
strewn with blue or pink blossoms, or
figured with some bright color. The
skirt with bias back, slightly long, and
bordered with two or three narrow
ruffies is the best model. The fouland
coat may be slashed all around below
the waist. the tabs faced with silk the
color OF the flowers, and the only trim
ming a double ruffie of chiffon placed
around the neck, down the fronts, and
around the wrists Two sets of chiffon
ruffies for one dress are useful, one set
of black chiffon to use when wearing
the coat with very plain skirt, the
other set of yellow, rose, or blue, TIE
color of the blossoms in the foulard, TO
wear with better skirts of grenadine or
net. -Harper's Bazaar.