Los Angeles herald., 1891-06-17


only necessary to say as to
this great eminence that one
has to wade through mile
and a quarter of deep snow, in mid
June, to get on its summit, and snow
shoes-or at least substitutes for them
improvised from bags-are an essential
to make the effort successful. The
other immediate attractions of the view
are the Yosemite falls and the splendid
expanse of the valley, with an exquisite
view of El Captain and the surround
ings of the Bridal Veil, thrown in.
Sweet and enduring are the recollections
OF this matchless yicinage No one who
has ever gazed on this foretaste of the
lovely and austere grandeurs OF the
heaven of every ones Imagination will
ever forget the unique, lovely and ma
jestic prospect.
PRosAIC DETAILS.
Most people resident in California are
aware of the fact that the state built
the Stoneman house. This is a de-
parture which has not been sufficiently
extended. The house itself is poor af-
fair, poorly contrived and poorly built.
During the night and portion of the
day l spent in it not even the unex-
ampled splendors of the landscape
could make me insensible to the ex-
treme discomforts OF the hostelry. Its
lower story is surrounded by a portico,
and the rain dripped on to the prom
enade and made it an unwholesome and
sloppy horror. The two stages, of one
which l was passenger, landed dozen
ladies wet through to the skin, they
having made the trip in open coaches.
There was not a room with Are in it
to be obtained in the hotel for love or
money. The ladies were obliged to send
down their wringing outer garments to
be dried before the fire of the hotel
office. This may not be, and probably
is not, the fault of the proprietor. But
there are some things that are his fault,
and that are not referable to the
wretched way in which the state has
been bilked in the original build
ing Of the hotel First of these is the
cuisine, which is execrably bad. The
whole energy of the proprietor seems to
be confined to buying barrels of old
livers, which he works in upon his
unfortunate guests with garnishment
of onions, the latter having sprouted
during the winter, and being thus as in
eligible as the livers themselves for the
palate of any properly nourshed per-
son. For all know, the lights may fol
low the livers into the predestined
stomachs of the guests of the Stoneman
house. There is another thing for
which the proprietor of this most afro
ciously managed of all hotels is respon-
sible, and that is for his uncompromis-
ing and disgusting surliness. He seems
to think that his sole business is to
collect 81 day for tough livers and
antique onions, and to frown on any
body who has the presumption to ask
him question about anything. His
soul is about as responsive to suggestions
of fine scenery as would be the snout of
hippotamus to the delicate perfume of
the genuine Partisan jockey club. ven-
tured to ask him if there was any prob
ability of its clearing up in the morning.
He replied, with snap, "You can
guess as we'll as l can." There are two
Alaskan bears in a pen at Wawona. l
interviewed them, and truth compels
me to say that they received me with
far more politeness than did the propri
etor of the Stoneman house. 1t is to be
hoped that he will be replaced by some
one more in sympathy with the esthetic
surroundings of the place, and better
adapted to make tired and hungry tour
lists feel satisfied. 1t costs as much per
pound to transport old, tough and dis
eased livers to the Yosemite as it does
juicy beefsteaks, or cans filled with pate
de .foie gras.
There are great many attractive re-
sorts near the Stoneman house, to reach
which ample preparations appear to have
been made. There is a stable, which
comprises, between mules and horses,
and the supply of the stages, one hun
dred and twenty animals. Excursions
are made to Clouds Rest, Glacier point,
Vernal falls, and other places of notable
beauty. They all present vistas OF en-
chanting grace, majesty and variety.
Their ascent is quite laborious, but they
repay the labor, and with interest.
THE BIG TREES.
Ny original scheme embraced five
days trip, and l was perfectly aware
that this brief period admitted of but
bird's-eye view of the Incompatible val
ley. Better that than not to have
looked at these wonders, which
really suggest the supernal. The
programme, after night of per-
sonal wretchedness, and morning
of esthetic delights, at the Stoneman
house, prescribed an immediate return
to Wawona, the trip back being relieved
and glorifed by rainbow radiance at
one of the principal falls. Wawona is
center OF great interest. The Chilnu-
alma falls, whose beauties are said to be
quite up to those OF the more famous
resorts, was obliged to defer to sub
sequent visit. l was also compelled to
forego the sublime view from Signal
Point, which is said by travelled people
to surpass anything on earth in its scope