St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1891-04-16
a PROBLEM N woRsTEDs.
An Important Point Revealed in
the Condition OF the Seasons
Clothing Trade.


Clothing Trade.
Chicago Apparel Gazette.
An inquiry into the conditions of the
seasons clothing trade reveals most
prominently the scarcity of lines in fab
Tics suitable for making good-wearing
and dressy suits that will permit of be-
ing Teraiied at Sl5 and leave a profit.
The class of customers requiring these
suits is chiefly the workingman, whose
purchases must be regulated by the
amount he is able to squeeze out of
wages. So far this season the supply
of such goods has been met by cOmpO-
sitlons OF cotton, shOddy and wool, and
by aIl-WOOl cheYiOJS.
The wearing qualities of these do not
possess that intrinsic worth that the
price of the goods ought TO warrant.
and great proportion of the samples
examined are comparatively worthless,
and possess so little value as articles of
clothing as to be dear at the cost of
tallOrS' wages ana trimmings. Of ser
viceabe, wearable and dreSSy goods to
fit the demand the market is bare, and
ali clOthierS interviewed admit that
there does not exist in the market a
really attractive and SerViceable line of
fabrics to meet the large requirements
OF the workIngman. A dreSSy piece of
goods possessing value that will enable
the clothier to sell and retail at $l5 per
suit for wOrkingman'S Sunday and holt
day wear is at premium this season.
In light weights the difficulties of pro-
curing such cloth were comparatively
small, but when the heavy weight
season neceSSitateS the addition of from
eight to ten ounces more of warp and
filling, the cost is so increased as to
carry the goods above the desired price
A sample of domestic all-woOl worsted
is before US that sold largely last season
in light weights around S1.S0. which
possesses all the attractions of style and
wearing qualities. To add the weight
in the stock it was composed of for sum
mer wear TO fit it for the seasons re-
quirements would raise the price to
S2.75 and to reduce the price to $3.50 by
the use of cotton for backing purposes
would still render the price too high to
I'LL the requirements. while the addition
Of the cotton detracts more than the
difference in the price from the wearing
qualities of the clOtn. Another attrac-
tive sample is before us that sells at g.
This price is too high, and yet it is only
met by the use of inferior for good pro
ducts in the warp and filing. The NIL
ing is an alternate pick in cotton
and in wOTsted. The face warp
is of black wOrsted and the
small portion of silk that adds greatly
to its attractiYeneSS is twisted on a cot
ten thread. The back is made almost
entirely of cotton and shOddy. Such a
fabric will give poor satisfaction TO the
wearer, and yet cannot be made into
suits to retail at less than SIS.
The wOrklngman'S large demand for
heavyweight alI-wOOl suits up to SIS is
whose IOOSeneSS Of construction PIE
sents very little wearing qualities, and
whose appearance Is soon spoiled by the
wearing Of the nap in the places eX-
posed. to wear, and by the absorption of
ali the dust and dirt that may be flying
around. Another suit may be made at
Sl5 from q coarse cashmere cloth made
from low wool and Shoddy. Its appear
ance Is common and cheap. and its lack
OF wearing qualities are made eYiden
after a week. wear.
Never, in the history of the clothing
trade, were there as many cOttOn-backed
goods in the market as to-day. De-
slgnerS' talents have been exercised to
produce aJtractlveneSS at the expense
of values, and the only wearing CON-
pounds of the cloth are so fiOated on
the surface as to show at its best. and
last only short wear to expose a vile
backing of cotton and shOddy Manu-
facturers have borrowed from the
cabinet-maker all the arts of veneering.
They have padded the cloth with yarns
of lower values to meet the price, but
have rendered the whole of compare
lively little value as an article of cloth
ing.
The demand upon the manufacturers
for wearabie, dressy piece of goods at
from $3.50 to $3.50 in heavy weights is
large one, yet SO far every producer
has expressed his inability to make any
thing equal to the standard required. In
former seasons the demand has been
filled by the impOrtations from abroad,
but the action OF recent legislation has
Increased their cost about 30 ceents per
yard. The demand existing and I'M
filled. as it is, the heavy weight season
for WOrsteds and WoolenS is very De
culiar one, for clothiers. backed by ex-
perlence and by knowledge of the
fabrics they are compelled to cut up, do
! not feel sure OF good demand for such
unwearable suits from the consuming
public, ana dread to burn their fingers.
The market is therefore out of Joint.
and the demand for the right thing con-
tInueS unmet.