The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-01-25
WHAT IS STYLISH
FOR MEN FOLKS.
The Extremely Correct Costume TO Be
Worn at a Day Wedding.
Styles That Are Appropriate for Half Dress
and Genteel Business Purposes Do Not
Lessen il Value for Full Dress.

Judged by the almost innumerable letters
we receive, asking what is correct to wear at
day wedding and by the swallow-tailed
coats that sometimes affiict our vision before
the shades of night" have commenced to
do any shading it is quite probable that the
knowledge of what full dress really is, is not
so widespread nor so accurate as it might be,
with advantage to the public generally, and
to the trade IN particular.
1t is therefore with the pleasure that natu-
rally follows the doing of something meri-
torious, and the filing of the everlasting
''long-felt want" that we publish sketch
specially devoted to the correct dress for
day wear, says the Sartorial Art Journal.
published in New York. Sketches of even
ing dress costume have baen frequently
issued by fashioners, but we are quite certain
that never before has there been issued one
for the special purpose of illustrating correct
costumes for day dress, and that such is
| needed admits of no doubt. The irrepressi-
bic and jerky Howard, writing on the sub
lect OF full dress, said in the Press of this
city a few Sundays ago:
But what is full dress? Recent graduates
| from toll and trouble and youthful sciuus of the
newly rich are apt 10 think that full ,.iess' and
| evening costume" are interchangeable terms.
Nothing is more ludicrous than light OF noodles
| old and young, rushing through the streets in
| might DO properly cl ID i'll evening. Mornings
| have their rights and let's as well as evenings.
| The Prince Of wales attends a wedding the
morning IN full Dress but IN this case II Is full
morning dress" and he would be the laughing
! stock of England If heishOuld 20 I'm swallow
tailed coat. The regulation morning attire Is
| Prince Albert or frock coat dark 10 co!ur, over
| trousers mot pants-'geuts pants, gentle
men wear rousers'D OF lighter color. Some men
Of uulet taste prefer coat ana trousers Of uniform
! color.
Howard is right, as be often is, as far as
| he goes, but he does not go quite far enough,
| for besides the double breasted frOck or, as
he STYLES 1t, the Prince Albert, the three or
| tour button cutaway coat Is equally as cor
| rect for any occasion of day dress, though
| in our opinion it is neither as elegant nor APP
| proprate. This, however, is a matter of
opinion. The fact is that popular favor is
| about equally divided between the two
| styles, and that either may be worn with alb
| solute propriety.
| That these styles are also appropriate for
| hali-dress aud genteel business purposes
| does not lessen their value for full dress
| for, in themselves, they are not complete
| for either purpose. 1t is their texture, color
| and contrast, modified or emphasized by their
| accessories that give them the uumistakable
| expression which eminently fits them Tor the
| occasion, and IT is our purpose IN the fol-
! lowing descriptions to so sharply define
| these that it will be difficult indeed for the
trade to make any mistake in advising eli
| entS, or producing appropriate garments.
THREE-BUTroN CUrAwAY SUIT.
The material for the coat is diagonal
wOrsted. The style of coat differs
from the. usual form of cutaway in the
run of front only; but this difference,
| it should be unders God, is Il matter of
| taste and not of fitness. The in-curving
of the front line of skirt is new and, we
| think, pleasing, but the fronts from the
lower button down may be more or less
| rounded, as usual, without affecting the pro-
| portions or appropriateness of the coat. The
| lengths, for a man Of average height, > feet
| S inches, are 1874 and S3B. The gorge is
| cut moderately low, the ends of the collar
| and the tops Of the lapelS are u inch wide
| and the upper closing hole is "a inches be-
| low the top of lapel. The lower button is
| 81 inches above the waist-Seam and the
| fronts below 1t are well cut away, with the
| skirts slightly followed to near the bottom
| where they are moderately rounded. The
| edges are hat-braided narrow and the sleeves
are finished to initiate cuffs, closed with
! three buttons.
The vest. which is of figured white vest
| ing, Is single-breasted, opens about 10
| inches, is 25R inches long, closes with .
| buttons and has notched collar.
! The trouSers.-The material is a small
| checked English trouserlng. The proper
! tiOns are 19 incnes at the knee and 17J5 10 IS
| at the bottom. The side seams are finished
| plain and the bottoms have q moderate
| spring.
| DoUBLE-BREAsTED FROCK SUIT.
The material for the coat is a cheYiot,
| and for the trowSers q fine striped trOuser-
| ing. The lengths of the coat, for a man
| of the height given above, are ISR and
| 3612 inches. The shoulders are of moderate
width, the side seams are fairly well curved,
ana the width of the back at the tack is 2
inches. The lapels are well peaked, and are
~ inches wide at the top, pa at tie breast
and 272 at the bottom. They are evenly
spaced for five holes, and turn when the
coat is closed, to the third. The silk ex-
tends One-third the width of the lapels from
the end OF collar, snnd the collar is two
thirds the width OF the lapel. The edges
are finished with fine silk cord, back of
which, about Is inch, is run row of stitch
ing, and the sleeves are finished with imita-
ton cuffs, closed with three buttons. The
vest and trousers are the same as for the
three-button cutaway
Remarks.-ROugh finished material for the
coat or very light or wide striped or large
plaided material for the trousers, or highly
colored or fancy material for the vest, are
not appropriate for day dress. For this
purpose there is but one kind of hat suit.
able, and that is the regular silk hat OF
whatever may be the shape in vogue. The
collar should be moderately high and plain,
or with the ends slightly turned, or turned
and creased, and the neck-dress should be
completed with a plain white scarf, or with
one of very light and delicate tint relieved
with neat, subdued figures, and ornamented
with pin to the left of the center. Correct
gloves are pearl-colered. with Substituting
or narrow black cord. Patent leather shoes
complete the costume.
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