New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-11-08
THE FASHIONS.
MATERIALS FOR EVENING DRESsEs-Tm
NEW WRAPS

NEW WRAPS
Brocades and all rich silk fabrics with figured ground
have taken a renewed lease Of pablo favor. satin
brocades prevail. Even the figured silks which differ
from true Jacquard brocade inasmueh as they are
done IN overshot now, have brocaded ground. There
stn bengaincs and corded silks Of heavy Muscovite
weave, but they are not rs new rs brocades. Ine
crystal weave is bengaline which Is all SIX. ana
has an irregular heavy cord. The new figured siIut
which bocaded grounds constitute large a proper
lion Of the SEASONS importation, are ornamented
usually in small medium flower designs In bright
color. with tnsel introduced IN the stem tiny leaves
Of the pattern The effect Of these figures thrown On
eafy black background is far elegant than that
Of the figured satns of last season, with taetr plain
satin background. These satins made up IN eombi
nation with abundance Of lace. used as drapees, 81
the side nounccs around tho bottom, ETC.. IN very
much the last season. Evening silks
generally satin brocades In ivory white, pe, yell
low rose or CELL and these grounds 0c.n strcwn
with figures in silver or gold such rich g. arc made
UP in Medicean styles, with long <ns cling
Ing skirts, high sleeves and high collars
They are trimmed with garDure OF rich embroidery
of silk with jeweed carbochons set in and long, PEN
dant jewelled frnges that scintate In the sht Pale
bands Of ostrich feathers in color harmonizng WIZ
the evening gown still used and there are many
hounces and bouant vest drapees Of crepe de chine
Tho nounces embroidered IN sawteeth on the cdga
ana set IN with bands OF Jewels IN tne coor VI ho
gown. Jet is used on dark velvet or brocaded satin
dinner dresses In dazzling effects, large nalIheads and
diamonds Of Jet being studded the large sleeves
and the edges Of the flowing jacket fronts. Taber
fronts OF embroidered musln deicatey wrought n
pale colors, Of white lace.
The high sleeves and the rufie at the SIDES OF ths
train and OF the corsage. Where 1t opens to display
full vest Of chiffon of the material. Flowers
used extensively in Paris in garlands and festoons
for evening dress and promise To be used here - soon
as the winter season fairly opens. Embroderes a.
metals delicatehued satins also to be revived
this season for evening For dinner dresses rich
shades OF cornnower blue, royal blue, granite q
fine gray shade, especially booming To gray haired
matrons, deep Divine greens and vzer purple Ia dull
shade with grayish tones win be much worn.
Orange brocade made up with black lace makes .
striking gown for dark spanish type Of woman.
The vzier puppies refined colors, which are
generally becoming. handsome Partisan dinner
dress Of this color satin brocade of leafy pattern
that nearly covered the plain ground. Jabots Of
black Chantly lace formed graceful dropping panels
on either side of the dress The high sleeves Of
lace with a sleeve of brocade to the elbow. and the
front Of the bodice opened to display soft vest d
white chiffon with fall Of black lace either side.
There Is no noteworthy change in bodies. Tho
tendency Of all GOWNS Is 10 princess effect. The
bodice, separate part Of the Is oftener dis
pened with than shown. At mist the basque 10
chiefly used in tailor gowns when II is shorter than last
year. Il does not appear in moro elaborate dress at
all, except in the form OF the long Louis XIV coat
The sleeve continues the most pronounced part of the
bodice but the ggot sleeve is not often used as tho
Marie Antoinette sleeve, which cings closely to the
forearm and Is full and high above the elbow Blouse
vest effects popular in the new corsages and there
many loose jacket fronts opening loose front
of soft chiffon. If the gown be slk-or over loose
front of bocaded India silk satin figured with gay
sh1 6nura mi Xed W 4
Narrow velvet vests are inserted in the dress 'front.'
vests of embroidery wrought in medley OF different
cOorcd metals chosen for the more compact styles
demanded by tailor gowns intended for general wear
Nothing can graceful than the princesssgorn.
but it is exceedingly difficult to 1T it properly and for
that reason dressmakers who not adopts In their
business dislike to make these dresses. They should
always be fitted gown form or separate lining,
which must be moulded to the figure smoothly Tar a.
! the hips The princess dress Is then made over this
lining and in the hands Of capable dressmaker the
continuous sweep OF line from the throat to the edge OF
the dress becomes thing Of grace Care and artistic
skill also needed to keep the dress from being too
severe and "wrapperlfe' In its appearance 1t 70
Quires rich glrniture IN elaborate dress and sone
| "chic1 arrangements Of draperes or trimming for
| palmer dress.
There are still some dresses made with foundation
skirts in spite of the popularity Of the nde steele or
bell skirt Many OF the bell skirts. however. are ar
ranged foundation skirt, though this is not the
orthodox manner of making them. Some dressmaker
fancy they hang better mounted In this way. rather
than when simply lined.
The new wraps are either extremely long coats or
nantes that reach the knees. There eso some
long driving coats of eecy soft camelshair In notified
patterns richly trimmed with furs In harmonizing
colors. The coat may be OF black, that IL can DO
worn with any dress, it he in coors Like granite
or TAM to harmonic contrast with the gown, the
wearer ancies The newest color this season In coats
is cornower bluea darker, more becoming shade than
the cadet blue Of a few years The new wraps are
almost always trimmed with fur the Jackets
have fur collars and faced with fur In
front. The capes often finished with the
popular triple bands around the edge, separated
by a space, each band being only an inch wide
on the pelt but about three times this width on the
face Pale granite gray camelshair capes notified in
darker tone are trimmed with bands Of sable and fn-
ished with high Medie collar lined with sable. Royal
blue Is another color which Is liked in broadcoth for
coats and is generally trimmed with long fur like
Alaska sable or light fur like fox. Mode shades Of
cloth are often made up into coats and long wraps and
trimmed with snowy. though inexpensive badger fur
which comes In tones Of these coiors.
Thanks are for Information TO James McCreery,
! Lord & Taylor, and Redfern.