The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-03-08

for the heighth given of 1874 inches, So
inches long, and may be made of the same
material and have the edges finished in the
same manner as those of a double breasted
frock. The roll moderately light and ex-
tend about ) inches below the top of the
lapel, and the lower button about AZ or 5
inches above the waist seam. Below the
lower button the fronts should be GETAWAY
to the side of the leg and rounded to the
bottom OF the skirt.
The vest should be Of plain or figured,
white CT delicately tinted vest-vesting; open
10 inches, be 25z inches long. have
nOtched collar and close with buttons.
The edges should be sing e-Stitched, narrow,
the trousers should measure 10 inches at the
knee and from II p to Is at the bottom, and
should have a moderate spring. The side
seams may be finished plain or with a small
welt.
The silk hat is the only correct hat. For
day dress it is imperative that the collar
should he moderately high, with the cor
ners either plain or more or less turned.
The scarf should be white or of a very
light, delicate tint, relieved by neat, sub
dued figures, and oruamented with pin;
the gloves pearl cOlored, with self-stitching
OF backed with narrow black cord, and the
shoes of patent leather.
For hatf-dress business suits the costumes
described above, gloves excepted, may be
worn with prOpTiety, but the vest may be of
any suitable material, either single or double
breasted the trousers may be of plaided or
striped material. The double breasted vest
may be of marseilles as well rs fancy vest
ings, with the lapels well peaked, as rule,
with the collar and lapelS cut off, aud will
close with three or four buttons so spaced
as to show about as much shlrt-front as a
Single-breaSted vest The Collar and lapels,
however, will frequently be cut together,
and sometimes Will have the notch shaped
as for single-breasted vest, though some
What larger.
For half-dress business, the double
breasted frock suit, made of gray wolsted or
mixed cheviot, will be popular, but the coat
and trousers, as the season advances, will
be worn with white vest. The coat will
be a tTifls shorter than for day dress, aver
aging from 30 to 1914 inches in length; will
have the edges Slnglc-Sttched narrow, and
viii be silk-faced to the end of the collar.
Three and four button getaways of the same
goods, and also of mixed cheviois and other
Suitings, cut rs for day dress. with edges
either single or double stitched, narrow,
with the sleeves finished with deep vent
and two buttons and quite often with side
flaps, will be worn. The vest will be the
usual notched-eollar five-buttoner, but the
trousers will be larger than those above de-
scribed; they will average In size from 1917
70 20 inches at the knee, and be 10 inrhes az
the bottom, and will have the side seams
finished with welt Of moderate width.
The one-buttOn cutaway will be worn by
stout and cOTpulent men. 1t Will be OF the
same waist length as the other getaways,
but the full length will be less. The roll
will be of ample size and from five aud a
half 10 six inches long, and il may be made
Of the materials named above. A new
style of coat is the doube-breasted cuta-
way, which at the lower button closes the
same as though 1t were Single-breaSted.
The lapels are sometimes peaked as for a
double breasted frOck, and sometimes
blunted as for cutaway, but in either case
the fronts are cut well away and are
evenly spaced for four holes, the width at
the second being the same as for double
breasted frock, and at the third the same as
for single-breasted coat; the fourth Is cut
away. This coat should be made OF worsted
or plain cheviot or thibet, and have the
edges corded or stitched, or fat braided,
and, if the lapels are peaked, the silk should
show either to the end Of the collar or to the
buttOnholes.
Business suits will be double-breasted
sack, nfade, as rule, of plain, rough fin
ished and diagonal chevots, and worn with
out an overcOat. 1t will be loose fitting,
though shapely, and will be quite long,
ranging in length for a man of average
height from 30R TO 81 inches. The lapels
will be well peaked and from "a TO ~
inches wide, and the silk will extend TO the
end of the collar or to the buttonholes.
The buttons will be Az inches from the
edge; the holes will be evenly spaced, and
the roll will extend to the third. Tine
edges will be double-stitched moderately
wide; the sleeves will be finished with a
vent about three inches deep. closed with
two buttons, and all the pockets will have
flaps to go in or out. The vest should be
OF the same material as the coat. but the
trousers may be Of a fancy trousering.
The straight front single-breasted sack, tC
close with four buttons, made from any
style of suiting liz the market, but generally
from checks and modest plaids, or stripes
with an oyer-plaid effect, will be standard