The sun., 1891-07-05
THE SOUTH SEAS.
LIFE UNDER THE EQUATOR.
LETTERS FROM A lElSUHsLY TRAVELLER.
CopyrtohG 1901. by s s KeCturs.
XXX.
TIE IAzAnErro OF TO-DAY.

TIE LAzARErTo OF TO-DAY.
OpoLv. Samoan Islands. January. 1901
Th. tdons OF deformity aud living decay hav O
bson burdensomo to mr. Imagination since
the nightmares OF childhood; ard whsn I a,
last b SHIELD. lying athwart tho sunrise the
lepor promontory and tbe bare town OF Kalau-
rnpa when tho first boat act forth laden
with patents; whom It was my turn to follow
In tbs second. seated by two Sisters on the
way to thoir b. ave employment; when We drew
noar tn, landing Stair and saw them throngs
with tho dshonored images of God, horror and
cownrdico worked in tho marrow Of my bones.
Tho coming OF the Sisters had perhaps at
tracted an unusunl attendance. To many OF
those who NEEDLE with cold iron" n the
form Of pens. any design OF writing appears
excuse sufficient for the most gross Intrusion
nerhaps, less fortunate. have never attained
TO this philosophy-sha seized upon mo to
be there. among the many suffering and tho
few holp,rs. useless and spy; and I made
my escape out OF tho throng and set forth on
foot for Kalawao. 1t was still quito early
morning as went with my bundles up the
road. The air was cool, the level sunbeams
struck overhead upon the pai tho btrs were
piping in the clff-slds woods I mot many lep-
ers riding hard. as though beIaesd. toward the
landing place: others sat In their do orways.
and with those I EXCHANGED salutatlons
with these I sometimes stopped and fell
In talk Some half iway over. Mr.. Hutchinson
met and mounted me: and came at last TO
the guest house, and threw myself on the bed
to sloep. tired indeed Ia mind and body. but
at peace. 1t was not merely that.the plunge
was made and l had steeled my heart against
painful surroundings: but already. in the
course OF that morning walk. some OF the wors..
Of tho painiulness had disappeared.
To the porch OF house in the outskirts OF
Kalaupapa was summoned by a woman.
She know English. she was comely In face and
person. OF engaging manners. spoke with AN AZ
foctionate gentleness. and regarded me with
undlssembled sympathy. In tho course Of our
talk 1t leaked out she supposed me to be the
nsw white leper and when had corrected the
mistake q singular change appeared immc-
diately In her face and manner. She had
thought was lepor. doomed. like herself. to
spend my few last Of days In that rsclusion.
and when she found that was clean and free.
and might look forward to the average life Of
man, her feeling was regret. In view OF my
own horriHed thoughts OF that disease and OF
the place I was then visiting In view OF
tho mountain outlaws. aud Of that scene on
tho beach OF Hookena 80 recently inscribed
upon my memory. It was hard to understand
her attitude. Yet l an persuaded such is ION
the whols) tho attitude Of the lazaretto Hor-
60EI0Ws Ill IQ06 VI Ill UtSI0E06S0
OF regret have passed from the spirits OF these
sufferers. and tho sick colony smiles upon its
bed OF death.
Nothing In the story OF Molokai appears
moro culpable than that series Of neElects By
which the exiles were progressively pauper-
lied; and. perhaps, nothing was moro for
tunate. Rations and no work are the attrac-
tions Of tho lazarettn Even he who has lain
In the bush. aud been long hunted. and per-
haps taken at last In combat. savsgely defend.
ing freedom. 10 soon emasculated In that pau
psr atmosphere: and the widest settle down
contented to their life Of parasites. I heard
two mon discussing an escape. One was an
official. All" said he. referring to the fugi-
tive. "he had not been long here!" And such
believe to be the fact, at least with natives II
they seek to escape at all. It Is while they are
new caught Yet more significant Is the case
OF the clean Kokuas These, usually connec-
tions OF the sick allowed to accompany
3helr wives. husbands, or children. are
the working bees OF the sad hive. the
laborers. butchers. storekeepers. nurses. and
gravedlgRers in that place OF malady
and folded hands. The surroundings the
fov toilers looked upon By SO many as delivered
from all touch OF need-the frequency OF death.
the brevity Of prospect. the consequent esti-
nation OF the moment-mieht relax the fibre
even OF ardent aud Industrious racea In the
Polynssiau Kokuas the result appears to be
unmlngled envy OF better state. They are
peris at the gates OF o paradise OF rations DIR.
Swift had once In his hand q lancet charged
with the virus OF leprosy. Come here" he
cried In somewhat appalling pleasantly. to one
Of the kokuas. come hero and I will make a
tsper OF YOU" The man advanced. rolling up
MS sleeve as he came. Paris paldh 6ien una
naesss: and. in tho thought of this genteman.
rations arc worth leprosy.
Within the precinct. to he leprous is tho ruls.
Tho disease 40 longer awakens pity. nor do Its
delormities move shame In the patient or dis
gust in tho beholder. Latsone afternoon. as
rode from Kalaupapa, I saw In front OF me.
on downward slope that loads to Kalawao. q
group OF natives returning from some iunket.
Ihoy wore their many colored Sundays best:
bright wreaths OF flowers hunc lin the
Hawaiian fashion, from their nocks: tho trade
w'hd brought me strains OF song and laugh
tor; and saw them gambol by the way aud
tne men and women chase and change places
with each other rs they came. They made
from distance an engaging picture: l had
near forgotten In what distressful country my
Ecad lay and was amazed to 500 las they ap-
Proaeaed| that out OF that small company two
wore unhumanly defaced. The girl at Hoo
Esna. q lepsr at largo among tho clean. held
ao"n herhead. was glad to find sho would
soon walk with face erect among her fellows.
anu perhaps be attended as beauty. Yet
moro: she may even appear adorned and with
applause upon public stage; for plays and
historical tnbleaus are among the chief diver
e'ons OF the lazarotto. And one thing is sure.
tne most disgracsd OF that unhappy crew may
expect the consultations OF love: love laughs at
Ieprosy; and marriage Ia In use to the last
stage OF decay and the last gasp of life.
On the whols. the spectacle OF lie In this
mnrrsd aud morlbund community. with it's
'tieness, lis furnished table. its horse riding.
music and gallantries under the shadow OF
aoath confounds the expectations OF the Wis
t'r. He cannot observe with candor. but he
must see 1t Is not only good for the world but |
pest Tor the lsDers themselves to be thus set
apart Tho place is a huge hospital but a |
hospital under extraordinary conditions. In
"h'h tho disease. although both ugly and in-
GuEaL!e. Is Qt n glow alraaas: In sh hieh tho IN