The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-10-11
THE CULINARY ART.
Historic Cooks of High Degree
and Their Inventions.
ROMANCE EVEN ABOUT PASTRY.
The Use Of the Rolling Pin Commended
to Beautiful women-Daintfes
for Pampered Palates.

Maze the good naught reside the i'll
This morning, when, with rested mind,
try an the e fsame theme
lie Wnoe is al tered and Ind
LIE baiancs Turned, tn good supreme.
What amateur cook has not had mo-
ments OF depression and exaltatlon as she
has weighed the lour and sugar, stoned
the raisins and mixed the cake, or even
worse in her young novitiate, has at
tempted to make a soup, and has begun
with the formula which so often turns out
badly:
Take shin of beef and put it in a pot
with three dozen carrots, dozen onions,
two dozen pieces of celery, twelve turnips,
fowl and two partridges. 1t must SIM
mer six hours, etc." Yes, and last week
and the week before her husband said at
was miserable" How willingly would
she allow the claim of that glorious old
coxcomb, Louis Eustache Ude, who had
been cook to two French kings and never
forgave the world for not permitting him
to call himself an artist"
''Scrapers of catgut," he says, "call
themselves artists and fellows who jump
like kangaroo claim the title, yet the
man who has under his sole direction the
great feasts given by the nobility of En-
gland to the allied sovereigns and who
superintended the grand banquet at Crock
ford's on the occasion of the coronation
of Victoria was denied the title so prodi-
gally showered on singers, dancers and
comedians, whose only quality" goes on
the indignant chef, ''does not require the
microscope to discern is vanity"
Ude was the most eccentric of cooks
He was maitre d'hotel to the Duke of York,
who delighted in his anecdotes and MINI
icry. In his book, which he claims is tn 9
only work which gives due dignity TO the
great art, he says: "The chief fault in all
great peoples cooks is that they are too
profuse in their preparations. Suppers
are after all only ridiculous proofs of the
extravaganza and bad taste of the givers. F"
He mentions great wastes which have
scared his already scared conscience, thus ::
l have known balls where the next day, in
spite of the pillage of pack of footmen, which
was enormous, have seen thirty hams, 150 to
2O0 carved fowls and forty or fifty tongues given
away. Jellies melt on all the tables, pastrys,
patties, aspics and lobster salads all heaped up
in the kitchen and strewed about in the pas
sages, and all this an utter waste, for not even
the footmen would eat this; they do not con-
slider it legitimate repast to dine off the rem
nants of a last nights least Footmen are like
cats, they only like what they steal, but are in
different to what is given them.
This was written by the cook of the
bankrupt Duke of York, noted for his ex-
travagance, but how it would apply today
to the banquet of many nouUeau richie, to
how many hotel, to much of our Ameri-
can housekeeping. Ude was poet and
an enthusiast. Colonel Damer met him
walking up and down at Crockford's in a
great rage and asked what was the matter.
Matter, ma fol-" answered he, ''you saw
that man just gone out? Well, he ordered
red mullet for his dinner. 1 made him a
delicious little sauce with my own hand.
The mullet was marked on the carte two
shillings 1 added 6-pence for the sauce.
He refuses to pay 6-pence for the sauce.
The imbecile! he seems to think red null
lets come out of the sea with my sauce in
their pockets"
Careme, one of the greatest of French
cooks, became eminent by inventing a
sauce for fast days. He then devoted sew
eral years to the science of roasting in all
its branches. He mastered sauces and
"belles paties des Louis Quinze." He
studied design and elegance under Robert
His career was one of victory after victory.
He nurtured the Emperor Alexander,
kept alive Talleyrand, through that long
derry and delighted the Princess Belgioso.
His salary of 81, 900 year induced him to
become chef to the regent, but he left the
Carlton house that he might return to
France. The regent was inconsolable, but
Careme was implacable. "No," said the
true patriot, my soul is French, and
can only exist in France" Careme, there
H., 1, =. sd
an unprecedented salary from Baron
Rothschild and settled in Paris.
Lady Morgan dining at the baron's villa,
in 1880, has left us sketch of dinner of
Careme, which is so well done that al
though have already alluded to 1t, will
copy verbatim: ut was very sultry
evening, but the baron s dining-room stood
orange trees. In the oblong pavilion of
Grecian marble, refreshed by foun-
tains, no gold or silver heated
or dszzled the eye, but porcelain
beyond the price of all precious
metals covered the table. Every plate
and picture impaired general character
of sumptuous simplicity. There was no
'perruque' in the dinner, no high spiced
sauce, no dark brown gravy, no flavor OF
cayenne and allspice, no tincture of catsup
and walnut pickle, no visible agency of
these vulgar elements of cooking of the
good old times. fire and water. Dstilla-
tions of the most delicate viands had been
extracted in silver saucepans with the most
chemical precision. Every meat presented
its own aroma" Ct was not cooked in a
gas stove) every vegetable its own shade
of verdure. The mayonnaise was fried
in ice,' like Ninon's description of Sc
vigne's heart 'une citronille frite la
niege' The tempered chill of the Ponbiere,
which held the place of the eternal fonduc
and plum pudding of our English tables,
anticipated the stronger shock, and broke
il, of the exquisite avalanche, which with
the hue and odor of fresh gathered nectar
ines satisfied every sense and dissipated
every coarser havor. With less genius
than went TO the composition of that
dinner, men have written epic poems"
Comparing Careme with the great Beau
villiers, the greatest restaurant cook in
Paris from 1852 to 1915, an authority in the
matter SAYS: There was more aplomb in
the touch of Beauyilliers. more curious
felicity in Careme's. Beauviliers was
great in an entree, Careme sublime in an
entremet. We should put Beauvilliers
against the world for q iilet, but should
wish Careme TO prepare the sauce, were we
under the necessity of eating an elephant,
or our great grandfather.
Vatel was the great Condos cook, who
killed himself because the turbot did not
arrive Madame de Sevigne relates the
event with her usual clearness. Louis the
Fourteenth had long promised visit to
the great Condo at Chantilly, the very es-
tate which the Due d Aumale has so re-
Gently given back to France, but postponed
il from time 10 time, fearing TO cause
Condo trouble by the sudden influx of a
gay and numerous retinue. The old cha
teau had become a tribe dull, and tribe
moldy, but it got itself brushed up.
DID