The morning call., 1891-01-04
How FASHIONS
ORIGINATED.
PGtGI The Great and Modern Costumes Of
Western Europe.
How the Fashion of Wearing Trousers Origin,
ated-The Way the spendor Came Into
Vogue The steinkirk Cravat.


means TO convince his subjects that they
should change their clothes to conform with
the modern costumes Of Western Europe.
Believing, as is we'll known historically
that the future greatness of Russia depended
upon the facility with which it was made
to assimilate all that was best in other cOun-
tries, writes q contributor to the CIOthier
and Furnisher, he had succeeded in intro
duclng some important innovation into the
half-clvilized region over which he held
sway. AT length lie had patterns of cloth
hung up at the gates of the towns, and those
who did not conform to the fashions thus
set, were docked publicly. Albeit this was
done IL as pleasant a manner as possible,
for Peter believed in being good-natured
with his people. They, on the other hand,
loudly demurred and used the argument,
that what was good enough for their fore
fathers was good enough for them. j." Very
well, said the sagacious Peter. In 1903 he
gave dinner in Moscow to celebrate the
marriage of one of his testers, and insisted
that it should be conducted in strict con-
fOrmity with ancient usage. There had.
formerly been supersttious custom of not
lighting fire on a wedding. So Peter made
them do without fire, although it was
colder than Christmas in HobOken board
1ng-house. He wouldn't give them any
wine, because their forefathers never drank
1t. When they demonstrated, he reminded
them that II was poor rule which did not
work all around, and thus, by. his good
natured greatness wheeled. his people into
new cOatS-abOut the hardest thing that can
be done with humanity.
A curious instance of how fashion was
nipped in the bud took place in New York
during the early part of this century A
ndTtV SWnIIS-pOGSihlV n
Yanced guards of the present army of Anglo
maniacs-one day rugged up a coach and six
and drove around town in style. This in
cited another clique of young men, who, not
to be outdOne at this sort of thing immedi-
ately fitted out a coach and eight and APP
peared upon the principal streets in great
Splend0r. So amusing was this to the work
men OF the town that party of sixteen car.
men, determining TO buriesQue the whole
affair, dressed themselves in clean white
frocks and appeared in the most fashion
able parts OF the town in a new coach,
which was driven by no less than sixteen
horses tandem. Each man had his hair.
powdered. Thirteen acted as positions,
singular vehicle sent loud outlaw from
one end of the town to the other. So ridicu-
lous did the carmen make this absurd GUS
tom of emulation appear that no further
attempt was made on the part of the young
Swells, who, however, took the thing in such
good part that one of them wrote an ode
called Carmen Triumphe." One cannot
help but wonder what these worthy fell
lows would have done with our Wardie.
Few articles of dress were more popular
at one time than the Spencer, the origin Of
which is extremely curious. Mr.. Spencer
an Englishman rather particular III his
dress, one time remarked in company that
no fashion was so ridiculous but would be
adopted if worn by a perSon of sufficient
importance. This was objected TO-, where
upon Mr.. Spencer offered to bet that if he
cut off the skirts of his coat and walked out
with merely the body and sleeves, some one
would follow him. The bet was taken, the
coat prepared, ana MIR. Spencer used it in
London, past well-knOWn tailor who he
knew was always looking for something
new. Thus the Spencer came into use.
1t seems that trousers originated in the
Gallo nations that finally overthrow the
power of Rome. When the Romrn En-
peror AuTelian led Tetricus, the barbarian,
in triumph the latter was arrayed becom-
ingly in pair of SIS bTacche, Boston not
then having been founded and the word
pants consequently unknown. The fashion
thus introduced into Rome was plant of
slow growth, the Romans believing that
any division in the garment below the
waist was mark OF etfemlnacy Grad
ually, however, as luxury became rampant,
the trouSer-leg became more pronounced
and close trousers became the general cos
tune.
At the battle of Steinkirk, which took =
place on the morning of the Sd of August;
1862, the French mobiles were surprised in.
their sleep and hastily rushing out OF their
tents they arranged their lace cTayats in the
most careless manner. The French were
victorious and to commemorate their victory
1t became the fashion alter this to wear the
neck-cIoth in negligee manner. Hence the
origin of the Steinkirk cravat, as Ii was
afterWard called.
Once upon a time Charles VI of France
gave masquerade ball and he ana five of
his cOurtiers took the part of satyrs. . To do
this artisticaily they were clothed in loose
linen habits, bsSmired with resin and then
stuck all over with down. One Of the com
pany, in frolic, lighted one of the satyrs
with torch and in consequence four of
them were burned to death. This is sup
posed TO be the origin OF the tar and feather
custom.
During the reign of George III his ROYAL
Highness the Duke of York had a duel
with Colonel LennOX, and the worthy Colo
mel succeeded in shooting away one of the
Dukes curlS. Hence ii became the correct
thing to wear curl on one side of the tenn
pie only.
When Fox, the first of Quakers, was sit
ting in church and the preacher said any
thing which he didn't like, he moved SOL
EMMY, put OF his hat and kept it on until
the dlsagreeable remarks concluded. Hence
arose the Quaker custom Of wearing hats.
in church.
The peruke is said to be due to the mis-
fortune OIL Phlllp, Duke OF Burgundy. His .
hair fell out, and his physicians advised
him TO cover his head with artificial hair
which he did. and thus set the fashion.
The practice of the Cardinals OF Rome, of
wearing red hats at ceremonals and pro
cessions, was introduced by Pope Innocent
~, as symbol to indicate TIE readiness of
the Cardinals to spill their blood for Jesus
Christ.
One day Francis 1 of France was struck
on the chin with piece of tile. OF course,
the wounded part could not be shaved
Thus boards came again into fashion, after
having been out for nearly a century.
Alexander the Great had twist in his
neck. 1t was therefore fashionable for
every one iii that monarch's court 10 carry
his neck the same way.
Charles the Seventh of France had a pair.
of ill-made legs. He wore a long coat to
conceal them. Result: Everybody else
wore long coats.
The use of powder originated in the fancy
of a French mountebank, who dredged his
head with flour in order to emphasize his
idocy.