Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-02-14

teen miles. through charming scenery. There
il a possible drawback, however. In the Licuain
river, which must be forded several times and
is likely to be rafher high. There is q road on
the left Of it, but travellers are warned to take
to the water instead, for there are vast swamps
on that side. with quicksands treacherous
enough to ingulf an army; and, besides, one
must pass through the unfenced hacienda Of
Antacucca, which is celebrated far and wide for
its wild cattle. Nobody goes over that danger
GUS road if he can avoid il, there being no place
Of refuge should he be attacked by the torros.
Fancy a party Of United States tourists, in
GLIDING two women, riding peaceably along on
muleback. when q herd of wild bulls come
charging full tilt upon them and not wall or
tree or bush to hide behind! In the vicinity
Of the hot springs laguas calientes) there are
acres Of plump mushrooms, and no passer-by
whose palate has been properly educated will
fail to secure a supply for his evening meal,
whether he takes il at the tambo or, as we did,
in the hospitable home of Don Pablo PaulJ
Meiias
REMARKABLE WALL
The third night one sleeps at "Tinta"-a
hacienda owned by an educated Italian. Senior
Don Francisco Masciotta, who il sure to give
the pilgrim hearty welcome. The road
hereto lies through an ancient Indian village
called Raccha, built within the crater Of an ex-
tinct volcano. Among other curiosities. it con-
tains remarkable wall, which is said to be the
remains of the palace built by an Indian prince,
eldest son of Tupac Yupangui, who revolted
against paternal rule and here maintained his
independence. Near it is one OF the many
small round towers, so frequently found in this
part of Peru. which are believed to have been
astronomical observatories wherein the Incas
determined the meridian passage OF the sun.
FIFTEEN MILES TO cHEcAcuPE.
On the fourth day one may take leisurely
jaunt of only fifteen miles to Checacupe, where
he will he made to feel quite at home by Col.
Martin Alvarez, who is a regular king in his
little world-a large landed proprietor, a mem
Der of congress and a wealthy wool merchant.
There are vet forty miles to Cuzco, and q rapid
day; but what is the use Of firing one self
when il is so much more comfortable to take
things easily? One better 60 only half the way,
say to Quiguijana. though it is q miserable little
markable old bridge. Unless one has a letter
to the cure, and that itinerant individual hap
pens. by rare good fortune, to be at home, the
night must be passed amonglhe bugs and other
pests of a wretched post house.
BURIAL PLACE OF INCA HUAscAR-
Next morning one is glad to take an early
start for Huaroe, twelve miles away, and even
to forego breakfast until he reaches the casa Of
the local magnate, who rejoices under the
high-sounding name Of Senior Don Fructuoso
Eguiletas. We went out of the way few miles
Peruvian tradition for being the burial place of
that great gold chain of the Inca Huascar. We
read that the celebrated chain was long enough
to encircle the grand Plaza Mayor Of Cuzco
and that every link Of it was as heavy as a
strong man could carry-all of pure gold. OF
course the story is nonsense; nevertheless we
spurred our beasts to the perilous brink and
faithfully tried to believe that we saw gold
shining through the dark waters. No securer
hiding place for heavy treasure could be found,
because the lake has bottom Of unfathomable
ooze, which speedily swallows anything
thrown into it and affords no footing for
divers.
ZUCRE HACIENDA.
Twelve miles beyond is Zucre hacienda,
where the traveller is advised to stop over night.
This very fine estate, mile or two from the
village of Oropesa, belongs to the Garmendia
family and includes cloth mandatory. Only
twelve miles beyond Oropesa is Cuzco, in the
midst of a tropical valley. After leaving the
highlands the weather grows warm and warmer;
paroquets and monkeys, palms and fig trees
are seen; and one sultry afternoon (midwinter
at home) we came cantering into the stony
streets of the old, old city that had several
centuries before the United States was born.
FANNIE b. WARD.