Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1891-04-05
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
INGENIOUS DESIGNS MAKE BIG
CHANGES ON OLD LINES


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,co~~..nonaenee of shs Richmond bispasch.l
Nrw YoaK, Aprifs. -Thelooms may have
already produced everything In the way
az dress materials that IL Is possible
for the mind Of man to devise. but the IN
penious designers have rung some most
surprising changes on the old lines TINS
spring.
In the silks, for instance, the conyen-
tons have been thrown overheard and we
have a new deal. In place Of pompadours.
eeometricals. stripes. or vines, we have
onduss, cheyrons, scrolls. and knots.
let me take these terms up seriatim and
endeayor TO explain what are TO- be under
stood by them in connection with the pre-
vailing I" novelty silks.
WAVED LINE EFFEcrs.
The ond,ies present waved line effects.
vTsuaIlv the ground is gros-grain, the line
In satin, self-coiored. The line may be
from an eighth Of an inch wide to some
what moro than an inch in some patterns
these waved lines are small and thiekly set,
in Others very wide and running across the
goods In completely irregular order, and in
the latter case the general aspect Is rather
bewildering and bard on nervous oD-
The cheyrons consist of straight bars
running diagonally across the surface-in
some cases running up from either side TO
meet in the centre. forming the same fig-
,Ire as the bars used on the sleeve OF uni
form coat to denote the rank OF sergeant.
In the service, as every one knows: o ser,
the title given to these effects They also
are in gros-grain grounds with satin or
moire stripes. In some of them diagonal
cross-bar Ia run, differing in color from the
chevrcns themselves.
ECCENTRIC LOOP FIGURES.
The scrolls consist Of eccentric loop
figures. sometimes so large that yard OF
the silk scarcely allows for single design.
then again they appear in the form of lines
OF small running loops, like q lot of small
o's run together, Like the Others de-
scribed these prevail in monotones, none
OF the new brocaded goods running much
to color contrasts.
BoME-THE TRUE LovER 8.
Now 10 the knots. Tie narrow ribbon
into an open bow or loop and fling 1T
against piece Of plain goods of the same
color and you will have the idea of this
class of brocade silks. Some of them have
the true-lovers'" knot. In combination
with these knot designs we see occasional
small pompadour floral fgurings in colors,
but these are rare. All these goods are IN
colorings to suit street, carriage, reception,
and afternoon wear. For evening the de-
signs do not differ greatly, but the colors
run to the palar tints-safrons, baby
blues, faint pinks. and Nile-greens being
prominent.
EVENING BRocADgs.
A typical evening brocade is of plain
satin to the centre: on the other nalf q
large vine Is run in the self color, throwing
out rays of gold-the latter effect being
produced by gilt tinsel woven in the back.
Metal effects are common in the evening
goods.
And, by the way, Lent being done we
may think once more of evening goods
and evening gowns.
Among the new evening trimmings one
sees nothing but embroidered net
founcings, the embroidery being in metal
and jewel beads, very glittering and gor-
geous in effect.
FETcHISG TEA-oowN.
/ must jot down before forget it the
most striking features Of something very
fetching in the way of tea-gown one of
our young married hostesses wore for the
first time two or three nights ago. They
say it came from Worth and 1t is worthy
even of him. The chief material is sal
mon-colored silk. showing tiny brocaded
satin flower, made en- frame, full front Of
pslest old-rose crepe de chine over which q
jabot of black duchesse lace and full wing
sleeves Of the latter.
sTREET-GowTs.
OF course models for street-gowns are in
request. Here is the description of very
recent production of q leading modiste
here It is In dark-gray crepon, q soft,
delightful material, made with short
Jacket waist. having pointed fronts. Be-
meath is full vest of striped gray and
white India silk, caught in at the waist by
a narrow-pointed girdle Of braid and gold
passementerie. The sleeves are full, and
are of the figured India silk. On either
side of the vest there is jabot of bright
red chiffon and the collar and cuffs are Of
ecru Russian lace.
Blue has an inning Gas the boys say)
once more. Some of the crudest, most
garish shades are in high favor.
OTHER FASHION NOTES.
One of therichest street-coats lately seen
had the collar and entire sleeves of mink
| fur.
Grays, tans, and beiges are the colors of
| the season. both in silks and in dress
goods.
The stylish evening stocking is black
silk. embroidered in colors on the ipstep
and for some distance up the ankle. Jewel
| heads are occasionally included in the en-
| broidery.
Silk underskirts have come to be general,
and although femininity hates TO part with
lsthe white petticoat the assertion of the
| dressmakers that the silk skirt is the sine
qua non of good fit while we are wearing
the fourreau has converted many reluct-
ant ones.
Sicilienne is the material of great many
of the imported wraps and nantes, espe-
cially those for carriage and evening wear.
The corduroy crepon is the sweetest Of
the spring dress goods.