Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1891-01-04
1T YsLOHDROSA.
WHERE THE ETRURIAE SHADES HIGH
ovERARCH'D EMPOWER"
Account of a Day Passed Among the
Cloisters and Groves of the Famous
franciscan Monastery.

Regular correspondence OF the RECORD UNION.
Copyright ls9l.l
FLORENCE Qtaly), November 24, 1880.
That is a sweet old tale the books tell
about the origin of Ynlombrosa. 1t is
both sweet and largely true. A man of
arms, about TO take life in revenge for the
murder Of his own brother, suddenly filed
with divine compassion for his enemy, for
gave him. This man, Giovanni Gualberto
to commemorate his salvation from 6
damning deed, built the monastery of Va
lombrosa, nearly 900 years ago. Milton,
in the three lines,
"Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the
brooks
In Valombrosa, where tn Etrurian shades
High oveIarch'd enbower-"
Made Valombrosa endless!y live in the
minds of men. II TO the morasterys sup.
preston had been added it's n.s;erial de.
struction, it 6o1ld still forever arise against
its emerald mouDtain-side, as millions
reading Aiilton's words see the vision he
saw in his swift longing to again dwell
with his monks and yearn as he yearned
to know the cool depths of its restful
shade.
About 900 feet from Valombrosa's
gates is fountain of the purest water,
leaping from an everything spring On a
summers day in zoos, Giovanni paused at
this fountain N search of hermitage
His family was one of the noblest of Tus-
cany, from the royal race of the Carlovin-
gisns. He was reared to the fortune of
arms and received the education of no.
blemsn of his time. In his early life his
Z l
bestowed friends, Visdomini quarreling
with his idolized brother, Hugo, plunged q
dagger into his heart and killed him. Clio.
vsnni swore vengeance upon Visdomini,
pursuing him IN vain for years. At last
one morning of Good Friday in 1913, when
on his way to Florence accompanied by
his body-guard. he suddenly met his en-.
emy in narrow rock -bordered forest path
Visdomini was at Giovanni's mercy The
avenging brother drew his sword and called
upon the murderer to prepare for instant
death. Without attempting defense be fell
upon his knees. and with hands outspread
in the form Of cross, sued for mercy
The mode of prayer touched the heart of
Giovanni. Springing from his steed he
lifted his enemy to his feet, forgaye him,
and dismissed him with his blessing.
This much is true; act as heroic and God
like as ever impsssioned rhymer sung
Then perhaps legend comes; if legend, still
tender, fitting sequel to glorious self-con-
quering. Filled with holy awe ct what he
had himself escaped, Giovanni straightway
sought the neighboring monastery of San
Miniato. He prostrated himself before
crucifix in prayer. Long and earnestly he
gazed upon the figure of Christ above him.
Lo the image bent lis head as if with
blessing at his act of mercy. Thereafter
follows historic truth. Giovanni related
the miracle to the Abbot, abjured his way
ward career, sought to enter the brother
hood, but was for time dissuaded on ac.
count of his noble fathers opposition. bnt
finally took the religious vows of the Order
IN April, 1904. His piety soon became re.
nowned.
On the death of the Abbot of San Mini
alto in 1908, be was chosen to succeed him,
but refused the office under desire to seek
still more solitary retreat; and il was at
the fountain near the peak of the Prato-
magno mountain, where he had halted in
his solitary wanderings. Near the spot,
which was then called Acquabella, he
found two hermits, Paolo and Guntelmo,
who were living IN huts. These Joined
him, and there soon was gathered a little
community of monks and hermits. Their
sutferings, privations and self-inflicted tor
lures were horrible. Robbers and wild
beasts surrounded them, and both preyed
upon them sayagely. Their homes were at
first low huts, with cross planted before
each, and central place for prayer; while
rude wooden paling inclosed all. The
fame of their sanctity became so great that
gifts flowed in upon them from every hand
Emperor Conrad H., the Empress Gisela
and all the court visited them and left gen
erous presents. Complete ordinances of
the Benedictines were finally adopted. The
original hermitage, Eremo, built in 1O43,
,rss9i- ,1,,. ! . n
pleted IN l64O as the structure stands TODAY
The Order OF Valombrosans, 500 wears
after the death Of San Giovanni, which
occurred in 1913, after ne had attained the
ripe age of So years had become the rich
est and most powerful in Italy; and this
one old monastery held their chief treas
ure. For this Order Ciambue painted his
priceless Madonna; Perugino, his marvel
GUS Assumption. But Valombrosa's dark
days came in with the French revolution.
When Nspoleon's council debated whether
the Valoubrosans should be spared, be-
cause they kept the wolves thinned in the
mountains, il was asked,
Shall we have monks or wolyes?"
Wolves" was the answer.
The monastery and church were Ges-
poiled Of their priceless treasures; the i'm.
mense domains were seized; and the monks
were driven from their cloisters Then.
coined back the sway of the Austrians. the
monks were reinstated, but their matchless
paintings, wonGfous yestments, their art
treasures, and their stores of books and
priceless manuscripts had been scattered
forever. Victor Emmanuel in 1860, at the
Italian disestablishment,co completed th cir ex-
tinction here. The place is now used as an
agricultural school, with a corps of resi-
dent professors; and just above the monas.
10 nh f,,--x- 1F r.
signal and weather stations of to-day.
Beautiful as ever is the matchless environ
ment. No ruthless hand can drive from its
cloisters the forms which your fancy peo-
pies it, San Giovanni and Milton are still
here. Valombrosa's bells still call YOU
and l from thousand leagues away, ana
their echoes will never cease their melo.
dies while Prstomagno mountain stands.
If you go to Vslombrosa walk. 1t is
only seventeen miles IS the crow flies: per-
haps twenty-five by the enhancing way
Every mile of it gives chsngeful and be-
witching views in that most dreamful of
all garden-spots of Italy, the valley of the
Arno. Leaving Florence by the Porta ALA
Croce, the way leads along the right bank
of the Arno. Scores of white valleys
i. thread 1t as pearls upon g necklace, and
here and there are crosses and quaint old
shrines. AT Pontassieve, the road diverges
LOAd AuO ANU, lSSuluS over the QllIS, aDG
the real ascent of Pratomagno to Vailom-
brosa here begins. Pelago is soon reached;
Pelago, crooked little town with bad inns
and sTarms of beggars, by a brawling
stream; where of wild nights, when the
wind howls over the mountains. the old
crones shudder and whisper, ''Ah. the
ghosts OF the dead friars have come back
to chant their htanies ~ Then, across
blossoming spaces, past terraces of olives
and grain, winding around the edges of
precipices above misty torrents tumblipg
towards the Arno, and often through silent
arcades of frs where the sunlight freckles
the way like brown gypsy's face, a six
mile tramp brings you to the tiny lumber
hamlet of Tosi. From Tosi paved way,
along which stand gigantic crosses, leads
up, up, mp to the monastery, 5000 feet above
the sea-ieyel. In the old days the monks
went and came on hardy little donkeys;
visitors were brought in carrozzs da buoi,
or COW chariot" a wicker. basket set on
sledge drawn by those wondrous dove-col-
ored oxen of Tuscany; but now the old
uad not hos hoov, tror, ,aI