The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
FASHIONS FOR MEN.
Some Of the Latest Ideas Relative 10 Wear for
the Steiner Sex.

Among theencOuraging features Of later
day manufacture OF all those articles of mas
cuIine wear that 90 TO make up the mode is
the higher standard that endeavor sets for
itself.
In no one Of the innovations that have
been sprung of late years has this ambI-
ton been manifest more than In the rain
coat. Time was when the word macintosh
was the synonym for an over-garment Of IN
comely appearance that kept off the rain,
but on account of its imperiOrate material,
and because of lack of device to admit venti-
lation next to the clothes, the victim, ike
the star-reader in "Oolah," literally "boiled
within" The rain coat manufactured in
this country to-day, because energy nor cap
ital have not been spared in bringing 10 to
the high condition Of excellence it has
reached, is deemed not alone an essential Of
every well-to-do mans wardrobe. but a conf
for.able and distinguished topcoat withal.
When the thoughts of masculinity turn
from the season OF summer, with its vivid
cOlOrings in all manner of furnishings, to
the quieter regime If autumn, q more seri-
Gus consideration will be given to the ad-
yanced ideas in mems wear. 1t Is the men
that can afford to speculate in search OF the
greatest modicum OF luxury, combined with
feasibility in wearing apparel. that will en-
Joy these privileges the forthcoming season.
Already orders for c0at-shaped shirts, night
robes and made-tO-0rder underwear, and in
instances the shirt-waist that buttons on to
the under breeches. have been left with the
high-class furnishers.
In many of the whipcord and brown sack
suitings it Is noticeable that the waistcoats
are being made double-breasted. The effect
in these cloths Is one Of enhancing per-
miss bility, and the double breasted effect
is always in better chime with tile cold
season of the year. 1t is noticeable that
they are somewhat longer. 1t would seem
that this might be the entering wedge for
the revival OF the fancy waistcoatIpgs to be
worn with an ensemble of less aggressive
hue.
The raln-coat, for all that appearance tells
of its mission, might be jaunty cape
travelling coat made from the latest pattern
of fabric in the market 1t is q fact that
the most distinguished patternings are mi-
tated 18th such success that the impe-
cunious swell may wear. should he be
driven to such sOlecism, his rain coat on
clear, cold day without fear OF discovery.
There are besides rarely beautiful COM
binatiOns of dsep mulberry with relieving
figures IN white; black dull satin back
grounds with heliotrope scroll work, and
deep warm, solid brown reds with hello
trope spots. There Is, indeed, a marked
feeling for the solferin0 school.
The fiat scarf in the old Stanley" shape
has brought the sO-called puff once more
into prominence. The making of the scarf
Is accomplished WIN tn6 UTILIZATION OF a
soft thin foundation, which secures pliabie
ana natural effect closely in imitation of the
De Jonyille
For afternoon and morning weddings the
gray coat with gray satin lapel lining has
been the utra-f fashionable garment, while
some of the extreme toffs have had the
notched collar and lapel of the evening coat
done in silk.
Among the more recent novelties is new
shade of slate, having tinge Of green in it.
Myriads of crepes in white backgrounds.
having raised figures in delicate embroidery
treatment, are also TO be seen.
The color tones in neckwear can no longer
be described as ''saddish." Some Of the
more virulent shades of red are really al
most too luminous to take out of the show
window.
The plain pongee or china silk handker-
chief. too, is coming strongly into favor.
Fancy handkerchiefs are among the fix
ings at present tabooed by well dressed men.