The Portland daily press., 1891-07-15
THE HON {.
NOTES ABOUT DRESS.

The woman who wears carefully BACKED
shoes and perfectly fresh gloves has achieved
the first advance toward success in making a
good appearance, even though she dresses
very simply otherwise.
Melted fringe is being used upon cashmere
and cameps.hair gowns. 1t can be made at
home by those who know how to knit.
There is nothing which it is quite such bad
| form to do as it is to have one part of the
costume out of keeping with the other; that
| Is to wear the shabby gown with new hat,
or vice versa.
Linen collars and cuffs are again edged
with thread or Valenciennes lace and hand
kerchiefs are trimmed to match.
With black costume, black straw hat
is really more dressy than white or colored
one, although colors may be introduced in
its trimming with perfect taste.
digniy lustrous black silks are more gen.
orally favored than for several years past.
AItnough a low-neck completion of dress
~ pecoming ana comfortable, a really taste
iul woman VIII never adopt such a fashion
ior street gown. no matter how pretty her
throat may be.
The fashionable finish for travelling
gowns Is four-inch hem turned up on the
IIignt si9e and stitched twice. Sometimes a
Ss-.NNSsa VA 6hnP buhOS tu6 place. Ol Tie
the hem. Nff0- oN''o -
Velvet ribbons are much used for trim
ming summer dresses of cashmere, challie,
ETC., and the newest fancy is for those of
uncut velvet, ribbed across, with straight
cord edges.
Black velvet ribbons are used on light
cnamDray ana lawn gowns, organizes, and
musllns, as glrdles, bretelles, rosettes,
shoulder knots, around the neck in points,
a ninrr fra fbnh alE nt.c
and loops.
All sorts Of pretty fancies are introduced
In the fashioning of light bodies and waists
Tor the vacation season. The Spanish, Swiss,
and peasant waists with pretty ribbon ac-
cessories are now almost indispensable to a
well-regulated toilet for a young lady, to say
nothing Of the fichus, berthas, vests, and
| bretelles of lace or chiffon which in very
economical way transform quiet gown in
to charming and dressy one. and over an
elegant dress these beautiful additions but
enhance its original beauty.
For the seaside and the watering places,
light summer silks" are again in great de-
mand. and the popularity they enjoy is
merited by their delicate elegance and con-
venience also. They are light, cool, dressy,
and pleasanter to wear than any other silk
fabric, not excepting the wash silks. The
new designs are less fantastic than the pat
terms Of several years past. A great album
DANCE a Geo, 81 fancy lace Is the popular trimming
dls
ruchings, frills, and flounces of the silk are
iar more appropriate, especially If the dress
is TO DO duty on many and varied occasions
lie sUft loose knot in one end of any
pretty handkerchief OF lace. edged china silk,
or embroidered or bordered linen; tuck the
end OF this knot inside the neck of your
blouse or Vassar shirt waist, arrange the
rest Of the kerchief en- jabot with the aid of
some of the pretty little gold or pearlheade
pins that every lady has now upon her Dress
ing table. Let a bit of the bordering or lace
disappear beneath the ends of the rundown
collar, and you have really pretty and
feminine looking morning necktie-a change
by way of variety from the all-popular four
finland, or other made" scarfs Of the mas
culine order now worn.
closely gored In front and on the sides, with
bias back arranged in a new way that
gives stylish scantness at the top and great
breadth at the foot To get this effect, the
back Is composed of three straight breadths
OF silk sewed together. and hung to the belt
from one corner, instead of from their top
This makes straight side next each gored
side breadth, and leaves the middle Of the
back perfectly bias. The point at the foot is
cut off. and the end of the skirt is gracefully
rounded. 1t is well, in making the back, to
cut OFF the upper corner about eight inches
across, and gather this slightly, instead of
literally hanging the back from point. In
double-width goods, such as ladies' cloth.
single breadth forms the back, and the slant
ing seams seen in silk skirts are thus avoid
ed,