The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-04-26

even a real corpse was sw athed in the rich
stuff and passed under the nose Of custom
officers. The best agents, though, were
dogs, who were brought up with the great
est kindness on the French side, fed fat and
pampered IN all ways then sent TO Belgium,
where they were starved, beaten, padded
with lace, pu. inside the skin of a bigger
dog, taken in the night to the frontier and
| turned loose with a reasonable certainty
that instict would guide them home. More
than 40, 0C0 such animals were destroyed by
the authorities within the year after the
| trick became known.
DUCHEssE AND vALENCIENNEs.
Bruges makes the well-known point
Duchesse. Nalenoiennes, named from its
! now best made in Flanders. Point d Alen-
con, which ranks next to Brussels in value.
Is made mainly with the needle.
Spanish point was so much used in the
| churches that up to the suppression of the
monasteries in 1890 1t was little known.
Black and white silk laces ara made
largely by the peasant women Of both Spain
and Portugal. 1t is different fabric,
| though, from the Spanish Lace sold in
American shops. That is machine prod
uct, and comes mainly from Lyons.
Blonde got its name in an odd fashion. IL
was first made from silk in its natural yell
low white hue, so was styled by Its French
makers blonde or fair.
Despite the introduction Of machines
there are at least 100000 lace workers in
the various European countries.
IRISH LACE-MAKING.
After the famine of 1S47 lace making was
revived in Ireland. Limerick, the most
| successful irish lace, is not really a lace
| az all 1t is tambour work upon net and
| muslin.
The Irish point, so-called, is the ancient
cut-work, being made in quite the same
| way.
Net was first made by machinery in 1863.
| The machine was an adaptation OF the
stocking loom in lace making, and was
| cumbrous and not very effective. In 1909
John Heathcote, a farmers son, evolved
| from consciousness and experience the first
machine to make true bobinet with perfect
six-sided holes. It brought great hue and
| cry about his ears from lace workers, who
fancied they thus saw themselves reduced
| to beggary. The Luddites broke into the
| factory where the maches were first set up
and made scrap-iron and kindling wood out
| OF them. The only result was TO drive the
! new manufacturer to other and safer quar-
er5 For long time the secret of the ma,
chimes construction was most jealously
guarded by English manufacturers. Not
satisfied with letters patent they kept up a
coast patrol to make sure that nobody took
models or drawings to France.
| AT last, though, they were outwitted. A
discharged workman, who had the plan of
it in his mind, managed to get safe over the
sea and build machine in France.
THE JACQUARD LOOM.
In 1887 the application Of the jacquard
! loom to bobbinet made machine lace a
reality. Since then it has gone from
strength to strength, constantly improving
| the quality and decreasing in price.
1t has been found, too, that there is not
| the slightest conflict betwixt machine lace
| and hand made. The more of the one is
consumed the wider becomes the market for
the other. Machine looms, though, have
enormously cheapened many of the best
laces. For example, "A piece of "footing-
| plain net" that in 1906 made by hand sold
for S25 the yard can now be sold in equal
quality for just cents. Another thing
| which lessons cost liz the use Of cotton thread
in all but the costliest kinds.
France, England, Belgium, Switzerland
Spain and Italy all TEEN with lace-workers
and send their hand-work pretty well all
| over the known world.
AMERICAS INFANT.
Lace-making in America is still an infant
industry, though the continent can claim
| the only lace tree yet discovered. 1t is the
| lazzette or lace tree of Jamaica. whose
inner bark can be separated into layers O.
very pretty mesh. Queen Victoria has had
a dress of it, presented by the people of that
| loyal colony. His majesty Charles II. had
ouly a cravat. History does not record if
he wore it. 1t does tell, though, of wooden
lace cravat that must have been much
more desirable. Ii was carved by the
| famous Grinding Gibbons in imitation of
point lace, and was so flexible that it could
be tied or folded without injury
The Duke Of Devonshre was its first
owner. Gibbons gave it to him upon the
| completion of Chatsworth, the magnificent.
In some manner it came into the hands OF
Horace Walpole, who delighted to wear it
when he had special guests of honor at
Strawberry Hill.
1t is all Of thousand pities that real lace
is so little in fashion. In place of is women
buy and wear hundred gewgaws wholly
lacking its beauty and worth The French
peasant dame is wiser far. She saves her
money until she has 100 francs, 200 francs
may be, then buys her lace cap and is bon
neted for lifetime. II folk would but I'm.
derstand that it is something to buy once.
for generation to wear, but not wear out,
to keep and hand down with silver and
jewels, it would be very well for the lace
merchant, but better for the appearance OF
the feminine half of this republic.
Not 50 long ago men wore more lace than
women. Brave gallants of the restoration
RULED 1t In lace ruhs, cravats, falling bands
and 80 on, not to mention rufiles and falls
down the outside Of the trunk hose. but
they were moderate compared to the gen
tlemen of the prince regents day.
FAMOUS LACE OWNERS.
&Mr. Dance, husband of the sculptresg. left
lace in his wardrobe when he died valued
at upward Of $4,000. He was not a col
lector, either. Many of his epoch were.
Lady Blessington left trunks full of lace.
Lady Morgan and Lady Stepner quarreled
weekly in print as to who had the better as
sortment. the finest specimens. Sometimes
the collector must have resembled harle-
quin-e especially she who boosted at Flor
entine ball that there was a specimen OF
every known lace in the tablier Of her gown.
For long time aprons of round or Brus,
sells point were allowed in full dress Beau
| Nash put them down. One night at
| Almack's he tore one from a duchess and
| flung it under foot, though it had cost 200
guineas, declaring that 1T was a badge OF
servitude and fit only for nurse girls when
away from home
The great Napoleon was connoisseur in
lace, as well as a munifcent patron of lace
makers. The lace ordered for Marie Louise
was studded with the Napoleon bee, and
most magnificent in quantity and quality.
So was that for the King of Rome. When
| the BourDons came in the lacemakers
fastened to make amends by wearing wells
and founces full Of fleur de lys.
| baG r1t lrs.e Of 81 ha'L1