Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1891-09-10
FASHIONS FoR AuruMN.

Evening Fabrics--Styies in makiug--Cos-
TUNES For Cities--Autumn Millinery.
Special Correspondence OF Gazette ana journal
NEW YORK, Sept. 2.-Styles which
are prominent in the waning summer
are sure TO exert an influence during
the autumn and winter seasons. For
evening, especially, such beautiful
fabrics have been worn that they cannot
be relinquished; and of these may be
mentioned mousseline de sire, crepe,
crepe de Chine, chiffon or nets, among
the latter, recent Introduction, stamped
in gay floral patterns, promising TO be-
come very popular. Chiffon, however,
having lead during the warm weather,
will have supremacy for some time to
come, the more so, as ii has almost
usurped the field of such accessories as
ruchings, jabots, or the dainty handker-
chiefs which have recently played a
large part in feminine coquetery, eitheras
handkerchiefs or when made into jabots,
lending lovely finish to dress of the
same or other materials. The stamped
net just mentioned is likewise, however,
being made up into ruffles, jabots, &C.,
and this may lead the way to an en-
ployment Of other nets for like purposes.
In answer to special inquiry, also, it
can be added that the delicate pertaining
of such charming trihes, by Murray y
Lanman's Florida Water, will be con-
tinued during cool weather, because of
its great refinement and purity.
WAYS OF MAKING
the princesse dress, often with panier
addition, is fast becoming popular.
slY RS ha Va 1,aaY or, mo III
in favor that leaders of fashion begin to
scorn them and both princesse and
panier outlines may be expected to take
their place The panier, however, is
adapted only TO slender figures, while
the princesse dress, with minor varia-
tons, is suited to almost everyone. OF
independent coats or belted waists, the
eye is not yet tired, and both viii be
worn during winter. They have many
advantages in bringing about effective
contrasts, are SO economical and
dressy as well, and are made up
in such great variety of material
that their popularity will continue,
particularly for theatre costumes,
where becoming waist is of chief i'm
portance. Long waists in costumes, have
by no means had their day, but while
sleeves are still in most cases made
moderately high and full, the newest
street dresses have skirts decidedly
shorter at the back and therefore the era
of pavement sweeping is rapidly coming
to u close. Demi-trains for house wear
nevertheless, are still in much favor, yet
the close fitting sheath skirt gives way
to those showing slight draperies in
front with perhaps plaits of greater or
less number at the waist line. Panels are
also more used of late. None of these
innovations are of very recent date, but
they appear with greater frequency.
Sheath skirts, however, have been made
up in such numbers, that they must be
worn for considerable period in the
future. Summer travelling costumes
usually do duty for
After a return home and among them,
those made of changeable brilliantine
are noteworthy. Favorite contrasts arc
silver and heliotrope, old rose and olive,
brown and amber or reseda and gray,
and the same hues are popular in the
changeable taifetas that either plain or
in checks have been popular for dresses,
and still more so for petticoats with
pinked tlounces and sometimes those of
lace as well. They have, in truth, been
so popular as greatly to interfere with
white skirts on the streets, quite taking
precedence OF them and leading the way
to general revival of colored petticoats
for fall and winter. Modest imita.
tons in mohair, either plain OF
striped, are economical wear, nor
are the taifeta SO expensive when
the cost Of laundrylng is taken into CON
sideration. Gray or tan dresses will re.
main stylish, since both are capable OF
such beautiful refinement and with the
white shoes and gloves now worn on
many semi-dress occasions, will have q
yet more delicate finish than when first
in favor. But return 10 city life must
initiate against white shoes, 1T least fol
the streets, and tan or gray gloves will
have increasing prestige.
The low sailor shapes which have
become so very popular are repeated il
heavy materials, being brought out il
velvet or felt, either with entirely
straight hrims or those turned up OF
narrowed at the back. Plateau shape!
being essentially bad style, will prob
ably have little showing, and there ar,
evidences of return to more STANDARD
outlines. Trimmings are often high
long upright loops being continued ans
the upright garniture on the left side o
sailor shapes is prolonged sometimes I,
a height OF ten inches. Toques reap
pear, either with or without strings ant
bonnets, az times show decided crown
with front finish much DIS formerly
Black, as Il contrast, is in very grea
/ Ia a Il.