The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-12-13
FOR WINTERS WEAR.
WHATTo DO WITH LAST SEASONS
FURS

in Dress Fsnc.es.
(Copvrioht9
NEW YORK, Dec. 12.-''It is now tina
the winter Of the good God is upon US"
As we were taught to say in the French
books. And to which we may add:
"And it is well that we look TO the stylt
Of our winter clothes"
First Of ell. take an inventory and make
careful mole of all the furs in your posses
sion; for upon ones furs dependent the
style Of ones raiment in winter.
Perhaps you had a cape last year and
now, having worn 1t all the fall, you are
wondering what to do with it. For capes
are not as fashionable as they were, and by
next springtime you will find your cape
quite out of date
WE'LL Here is a leading dressmaker's ad-
vice: Take one long, last lingering look at
your cape and tnen-cut it up.
Do not cut it recklessly, ruthlessly and
carelessly. but have regular system about
your tlashing, so that when your cape lies
In strips before you, 1t will represent just so
much material from which may be con-
structed something Of the latest and most
accepted mode.
Now take your heaviest aud best winter
dress and trim il freely with the strips of
fur. Suppose that the dress is Of dark blue
CLOTH with a braided pattern upon it and
that the strips OF fur are one inch in width.
Sew two bands of the fur around the bot
tom of the skirt in such a way that they
harmonic well with the braiding and let
the bands be at least two inches apart
Treat the bodice and cuffs to similar bands
and also trim the skirt with them in any
way which seems to be in keeping with the
general style.
ado you recognize my cape2" whispered
one woman to another as the two CHANGED
to meet at the same shopping counter.
"Yes, indeed" smiled the other, because
l have been doing the same thing myself
Only used my cape collar and lapels for
big, new Medlci collar on my jacket and
see you cut yours all in strips"
The two women chatted on so earnestly
concerning the possibility of last seasons
furs that no donbt newer and greater re-
suits will be accomplished.
To dress in mourning and yet look bright
and pretty requires two artists. The first
one is the modiste who makes the gown.
The second is the woman who wears 1t
properly.
For whatever reason mourning may be
worn-whether out of respect, regard for
custom, or what-it is entirely unnecessary
and undesirable to make a guy of oneself in
it, or 20 dress cumbersomely and unbecom..
ing.
Fabrics for mourning are now obrainable
in ever 50 many light and graceful kinds Of
cloth which drape perfectly and cling as
becomingly as any of the lighter and livelier
styles of material.
A kind of Grape cloth known as goffered
crepon is specially in mind as these lines are
written. The crepon looks almost exactly
like Grape, and yet it has a softness COM
blned with firmness which makes 1t much
more manageable.
or course nothing fanciful is ATTEMPTED
with such material. The utmost conces-
sion which can be made to style is in the
high pulled sleeves and the half-long skirt.
A fold Of the material covers the buttons,
and the bodice is finished with q heavy
cording of the same.
Il is pretty fashion which enables the
mourner to eniven her dress with deep
white lawn cuffs and a turn collar of the
same material. The cuffs should be very
fine and almost filmy In texture, and the
collar may be stitched with bands of black,
if desired.
The widows cap is a small affair and Is
unenlivened, save by its white ruching 1t
is, however, rescued from entire somber-
ness by being daintily constructed
and fashioned on the lines of the
latest improvements in millinery.
The veil Is of crepOn or some
boAHJ lAaIcA Ldl iASnJ'E bLdu CEdp0t anu Is
fastened or in much the same fashion as q
Eridal veil. 1t need not be long. In point
of fact, the wells which typify the deepest
mourning, are very full and fall only just
below the waist.
AS for second mourning, every one is wear
ing it, if one may call heliotrope. violet,
lavender and gray second mourning. The
loveliest dinner and evening toilets are Of
materials of these shades.
NalUpkaaO 10 Trnnnh instead nF &c
richer, heavier cousin--the velvet ITSELF
Velyeteen is more manageable. 1t does
not crush so easily. 1t is lighter to carry
and it comes in more shades than velvet
does.
A beautiful new shade of velvet is called
unplucked plum. The shade is much like
unto deep he!iotrope with e pale purple
bloom upon it. If you have been in the
country when the plums we're ripening and
before they were quite ready to be picked,
you can picture to yourself the lovely bloom
of the shade which is now known as IN
plucked plum.
An exquisite house dress of this hue was
made for woman who gave q dinner to
Sir Edwin Arnold when the poet first
arrived here. The material was velveteen.
and the trimming was of heliotrope and
gold passementerie.
The back was plated from the neck in
two huge box plaits. which fell to the very
end of the sweeping train. The front was
full and was gathered in at the waist by a
large clasp Of gold and heliotrcpe passe-
menterie.
What may be styled an i1ealized yoke was
sown upon the waists in points making a
lovely series Of gold and heliotrope figured
designs.
The inside of the flaring collar was lined
with pale, primrose yellow silk, and puffs of
the same extended below the pointed passe-
menterie cuffs. The sleeves were marvels of
fullness and size: yet SO perfectly were they
fashioned that they appeared most graceful
and becoming.
When Sir Edwin saw the gown he could
hardly have failed to be impressed with it.
And the clever woman who planned such q
dream of the dressmaking art declares that
to her must be given all the thanks if Sir
Edwin in the future writes glowing recol-
lections of American women and American
dress.
The same style of gown of a tender shade
of apple green trimmed with silver passe-
menterie and combined with sea she'll piuk
has elected much admiration wherever 1t
has been worn.
Among the more striking combinations
may be mentioned a Bernhardt robe of
orange colored plush iued with heliotrope
satin, Mrs. Leslie-Carter gown of black,
lined with orange and q Rose Coghlan crea-
ton of wonderful red brown cloth trimmed
with turquoise blue and pearl passementerie.
Have you noticed:
That fur-lined cloaks are coming in again
That boas Of fashionable design have one