Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-02-01
Possibilities of Californian Wine.

Champion Bissell is quite hopeful as to
the possibilities of wine production in Cali
fornia. While concedlng that she has yet
furnished no red wines equal to the fine
classed growths of the Gironde Bordeaux
wines) or of Bourgogne (Burgundy), nor no
white wines equal to the high grade Sau-
ternes and the white high grade Burgundies,
he points out that she is yet too young, and
that her vinevard area may be increased
more than hundredfold without overstep-
ping her grape-growing capacity. Mr.. Bis
sell regards it as thing to be fairly ex-
pected that somewhere in that extent of ter
ritory certain hooks and hillsides will be
found that will furnish such unknown and
mystical ingredients to the sap of the vine
that the juice of its grapes may have the
aroma and flavor of the superb wines of
France.
That the question of soils enters very
largely into this result is shown in other
manufactures. In the Island of Jamaica,
which produces the far-famed Jamaica
rum. it is known that the opposite sides of a
comparatively small sugar estate, making a
prize brand of rum, will produce spirit of
quite dissimilar favor. The area of the
Chateau Latte vineyard is limited to per-
haps 70 acres; the soil differs In no ascer-
tainable respect from that of neighborIng
vineyards, but the fact is indisputable that
the same variety Of grape when grown on
this soil and other soils produces different
wines, and that the wine of the Latte es-
tate has excellencies all its own and peculiar
to itself. The causes of this are believed to
lie beyond chemical analysis. Still it
is within the possibilities, and Cali
fornians say it is within the prob
abilities, that there will yet be discovered
in that noble State districts in which
the grape now cultivated on the Msrne will
produce sparkling wine, equally good with
that OF the renowned vineyards of Eastern
France. These districts will be, if they ever
exist at all, to the north of San Francisco,
and in the direction of the Sierra. The
southern wines are too rough, too sugary
too alcoholic, TO be matured into delicate
mousseaux that shall leave no cloying after
taste on the palate. and no headache in the
morning. In sherries, muscatels and ports,
California already gives greater promise;
and when the sound. pure brandy which is
now producing has acquired age, it will put
| an end to the importation into this country
! of much of what is called French brandy,
but which is in reality vicious German po-
tato spirit.
Distinctions have already been clearly de-
| fined between the California red wines, and
| the wines of the northern counties are found
| to be more delicate than those of the south
| erp. The latter counties are indeed semi
| tropical, Los Angeles being in latitude "a,
| and this latitude on the Pacific coast is
| much warmer than on the Atlantic. Here
and there wines with true aroma and
boouet have been produced in the Sonoma,
Napa aud Fresno districts, although they
are not yet largely commercially known
under their right names. Some OF these are
now ripening in the cask; others have been
sold aud shipped to the Bordeaux mer-
chants, whose wealth and knowledge enable
them to take up good things when they see
them. In few years, under proper labels
| will be called for at the high-class restaur-
ants by connoisseurs, and will deserve to be.