Arizona republican., 1891-05-14
STRAWBERRY CULTURE.
Directions for Proper Planting and Gull
 tiyatiOn.

me lanu pest autpUeu to STRENGTHENS is light, moderately rich upland. If manure is used at all, it should be we'll routed and free from live seeds of grass or weeds.
 Elevated land is not as liable to in furious frosts, as low lands.
 As general thing irrigation is pre- ferable, but in some counties on the Coast, thorough cultivation without irri- gation will give good results. But gen. eraily, irrigation must be had. This fact has much to do with the location. Strawb berries can be irrigated On hill sides and on rolling land very nearly as we'll as on dead level land, by having the rows strictly to conform to the con tour of the land. The rows must run around the slope on very nearly level, the end of the row where it is to receive the water should be little higher than the other, so as to give a gentle current as it flows between the rows.
 The land should be very deeply plowed early in Aut,..nn or what is bet ter, plowed and subsoiled. This kills the Cutworms and many other insects. The actual planting may be done at anytime from the first rains until the first of May, though February is the safest time in California and further north in Oregon as early in inspiring as the soil is in good condition.
 When not irrigated we run furrows as straight and as deep as possible, three to four feet apart, with
 a = l,N 4,,e,, tnrr fN1n the land having been fresh plowed a few days before, and then set the plants foot apart. If the plants are in full growth when planting all the mature leaves should be cut away, and one third of the lower ends of the roots cut off with a sharp knife. Place the plant against the land side, with the top of the crown of the plant just even with the surface. Spread out the roots fan shape and pack the soil firmly. One or two handfuls of soil is sufficient. A finisher following with hoe, completes the job. Place the foot against the plant as left by the planter, and press 1t snugly and then draw the soil up to 1t with the hoe. Be careful not to cover the crown.
 The planter should always plant from wide, shallow pan, where the plants are kept with their roots in water, so as to go into the ground dripping wet. A few days after the furrow can be filled up and the soil moved mp to the plants with a small shovel or double shovel blow, being careful not to cover up the plants. Plants covered up below the surface of the crown cannot grow.
 Where the field is to be irrigated, with small blow the land should be thrown into low beds two and one-half feet wide, leaving dead furrows or ditches be- tween, one foot wide. On these beds the plants should be set in two rows lengthwise with the beds, sixteen inches apart, with the plants one foot apart These are best planted with light spade, by 3 tightly-stretChed wire. Thrust the spade down beside the wire and press it backwards, then forward Thrust the trimmed plant in behind the spade, spreading out the roots fan shaped, and hold it until the spade is withdrawn. Be careful to have the upper side of the crown slightly beneath the surface, set the feet on each side of the plant, and give gentle pressure.
 Irrigation may be accomplished by running a shovel blow in the furrows between the rows, and running water in them. In two to four days after run double shovel blow in the fur rows, and when needed, water again. The plants must be kept free from weeds, and the soil kept fine, mellow, and shallow with the hoe or hand culti- vator.
 It cannot be too strongly urged to use the double shovel blow, and in some cases the single shovel blow. They are both grand tools for summer cultiva- tion, and far ahead of the land side or mold board blow. The one horse turn ing blow was relegated to the fence cor ner generation ago in the prairie States, they are an ante-deluvian tool. For the cultivation of a young orchard or small fruits, good double shovel one-horse blow is all the tool one wants for keeping the soil in order, except in orchards where possibly one winter blowing with two-horse turning blow. Then for after cultivation use the double shovel or two-horse cultivator. Always use the double shovel next to small trees.
 It is time wasted, more than wasted, for farmer to go scalping around with 6 one-horse land side blow, while he could do double the work and do it twice as well with good double shovel.
 In garden planting and culture of the strawberry, the plan Is about the same as above. Make the rows two feet apart, with the plants eight to ten inches apart in the row, with the water ditch deep but not wide between. Water should never be put on the plants, plenty in the ditches will suffice. When doing a nice job of planting strawberries in the garden, have the soil dug or plowed deeply and made fine. Stretch guide line for the rows, with spade or hoe dig out little basin deep enough for the plant. With the hands, shape a little conical mound in the center of the basin. Set the roots astride of this mound, spreading them out evenly, cover them up to the crown with soil, then pour in pint or so of water. Let them stand 80 for an hour, then with hoe draw in little soil, then place foot on each side, giv- ing them your whole weight, draw some more loose soil over your tracks, and