New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-08-22

Warwick, England, July 90
Early in the morning Of brilliant July DAY
the Sicily Islands came into view, little TO the
south of our course, and we could see the great
waves breaking into flying masses and long
wreaths OF silver foam on their grim shores and IN
their rock-bound chasms. Yet little while and
the steep cliffs Of Cornwall glimmered into the
prospect and then came the double towers Of the
Lizard Light, and we knew that our voyage was
accomplished. The rest of the sail Is the familiar
panorama of the Channel coast-lonely Eddystone
keeping its sentinel watch In solitude and danger
the green pasture lands OF Start; the crags OF
Portland, gray and emerald and gold, shining and
changing and fading in silver mist the shelving
frnges Of the Solent; the sandy coves and green
hills of the beautiful Isle Of Wight; and placid
Southampton Water with its little lighthouses and
its crescent town, vital with the incessant enter
prise of the present and rich with splendid asso
Citations of the past. The cleaning had begun to
die into the night when we landed, and in the
sleepy stiffness Of the vacant streets and of the
quiet Inn we were soon conscious Of that feeling
of peace and comfort which is the first sensation
OF the old traveller who comes again into England.
H. Is the sensaton,-after long wandering and
much vicissitude,-of being at home and at rest;
and you seldom find IT elsewhere.
Many days might be pleasantly and prohtably
spent In Southampton and its stored neghborhood.
You are at the mouth of the river Itchen-the
river OF Izaak Walton. who lived and died at ven-
cradle Winchester, only few miles away. You
may see in the chapel of the ancient Domus Del, the
bural-place of Scope and Gray and Chambridse.
the consprators who suffered death by the axe for
their treason against King Henry the Filth; aud
as You stand by their sepulchn you will
aito thar nj
emotion. the noble, pathetic speech-certainly as
high a strain of pure eloquence and lofty passion
as there is In our lnngusge-with which Shake
speare makes the heroic Prince deplore and re-
buke, at the same instant, the falsehood Of the
friendship in which he had entirely believed and
trusted. These lords were beheaded just outside
Bar Gate and were buried in st. Julian's Aims
house In Winkle-st. Other historic relics are 40
cessible-King Johns House, in Blue Anchor Lane,
and King Johns Charter, in the Audit House; the
Bridewell Gate that was built by Henry VII,
and the Spanish Prison in Buglest., that was used
in the time Of Queen Anne. Or If you look for
literary associations-not far from Bar-st.
church commemorative of DR.. Watts. who wa
born at Southampton while in one of the church
yards you may find the grave Of Robert Pollock,
who wrote So The Course of Time, "a poem much
read and admired, especially by pious people, hfty
years ago. For my part, caring but little Tor the
Muse of either Watts or Pollock, was more deeply
impressed at Southampton, with personal memo
ries of old comrades and friends,-of Artemas
Ward, who there died, and of Edward Sothern,
who is there buried. 1t seems but yesterday since
those lords Of froc were my compartment but tho
grass has long been growing over them, and the
music OF their laughter has died away.
A pleasant course, if you would drift from the
Channel Coast into the Nlidlands, is TO go from
Southampton, by either Winchester or less directly
by Salisbury, 10 Basnsstoke, and thence north
ward by Reading and Oxford. Another good way,
which this time nine-is TO loiter slowly
along the West Of England, taking the track of the
cathedral towns, and viewing whatever OF historic
interest may be observed in those places and in the
nleasant and memorable regions winch cnvfron
them. There should he no inexOrabe route,-fos
the chief charm of English travel is the liberty
of caprice and whichever way you turn you are
sure 70 find some peculiar beauty that Will reward
vour quest Nv path of late has traversed SAILS
bury. Amesbury StOnehenge, Glastonbury wells,
Cheddar Bristol. Gloucester, Worcester and Ives
ham, and all the while it has seemed to WIND
through fairy realm OF flowers and OF dreams
Each part of England has its charming pecullatl-
ties but the general characteristics OF Englsn
sceuerv are uniform The cities are the work
shops The rest is great garden OF dlversihed
and ever-changing beauty. AS you range through
the country you gaze ON wooded bills IN The gIil'
mering distance. dark or bright, beneath SKIES Oh
rain or sun-never one thing long, but always hcA@'
like caprcious girl whose loveliness Is the more
bewitching because insure Green nelds HI 'ns
foreground, in which cattle are grazing ana sheep
are couched beneath the trees. Here and theie
a stately manorhOuse CLEANS from It's lordly ero'e'
Little cottages, picturesque with roofs Oh tha,cn
and with tiny latticed windows, nestle Dy o@
roadside Some of the fields have just been
cleaned and ploughed. so that the bare ear'h' N
rich brown squares, affords lively CONTRAST WIN
meadows OF brilliant grass and great MASSES VI iip
Ming barley. Now and then you see a comely mare
with her awkward little COLI reposlng In the shado"
of copsc. Yellow haystacks, artfully trlmneu'
attract the eye, and circular cumps OF trees upon
tho billslopes attest the wise foreseeing care OF
tho gardeners of long ago. The land is gently
updulating and down in the valleys there are ro"s
~ pollard willows. by which you may trace tne
cr,ront of a hidden stream. Far away, or near
at hand sometimes suddenly appears gray spl~
or q grim tower, suggesting thought OF old mo-
nostio seclusion or a "reminiscences of historic an
tiouity. White roads, often void for many miles
eonalIv of vehicles and pedestrians, wind through
the level plains and over the ridges or loneY
Ellis. Rivers CLEAN in the landscape some
rapid aud some tranquil. Rainclouds urn'
frequently over the scene but only serve
70 make it more sweetly beautliui'
The pa,. and the present are softly blended IN TINS
gentle pageant of wood and meadow. park ana
common. church and castle, lawn and pasture
clouds that are like cloth of bronze and earth ta'
is clad in emerald and scarlet; while over all 'Oe
broad expanse of this various loveliness, IN "nl'I
the fresh garlands of Nature deck with perenniA,
bl.om the crumbling relics OF an historic au'
architectural grandeur that Is dead and gone '"'
skies of summer brood with benediction OF pea0''
II is .he natural desire for change OF scenery
that prompts an Engishman to visit other ianu''
but he can find no other land that is SO rich 40 MS
own in those treasures of suggestion when ais
the rain of travel. One little picture of the ola
familiar Shakespeare country lin which for wnhe
have restedl may stand for many that arc