The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1891-03-24
RACE WITH NAN EATER
ADVENTURE OF AN ENGliSHMAN IN
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.

WHO Enjoying EL1nR AsAolnS On the
Waves Near the Shore m Enthusiastic
Visitor Narrowly Escaped . Savage
shark-Queer Sport Amid Breakers.
Speaking of adventures" said my
companion, who had been listening to q
number Of stories told in the old boat
house, II can relate one that at least at
the time seemed exciting enough. had
been travelling around the world, after
the fashion of Englishmen, and had
stopped at the Samoan islands on my
way up from Australia to run them over
and gain some information regarding
the natives, their ways and customs, and
as result became enaInored with the
place, climate and people, and remained
there nearly year.
During that time I made myself
familiar with nearly all the islands OF
the group, and one in particular had a
singular fascination to me. Once on the
hill tops / looked down upon a long
beach, upon which beat the finest surf
have ever seen. The waves were simply
great rollers, which came in a slow,
mgnifed fashion that was most impress
i've. The men, who had all been there
before, ran down the shore, where / soon
saw them hauling some planks from the
bush, which l learned they had con-
cealed on a former occasion In short,
the waves were used by them to enjoy
one of the most exciting sports imagin-
able, and I was very quickly initiated
into it.
FASCINATING SPORT.
1.-THE men threw off what little cloth
ing they wore. Then each seized plank
and attempted to launch it. This was
easier said than done, and many were
the upsets that ensued as the big rollers
came in, but finally all of them got be-
yond the shore and beyond the point
where the waves broke, and then I saw
where the sport came in. Turning in
shore the men threw themselves upon
the planks, and, watching their opportu-
nifty, steered them 30 that they held
their position on the crest of the roller
and came in with it. Once under way
the natives skillfully raised themselves to
their feet, and so standing upright came
rushing in. Some were tossed off, others
were caught in the breaking wave,
while the most skillful and intrepid re-
tanned their standing position until they
were literally flung upon the beach.
II was younger in those days than l
am now, and soon convinced myself that
I should enjoy this sport as well as the
natives, and, securing a plank, l, too,
pushed out from the shore. The first
wave that struck me nearly drowned
me, but dived into the next and my
plank beat me in about two minutes
During that visit l did not attain
sufficient skill to enable me to take the
ride standing, but on subsequent occa-
sions l became fairly proficient, and
then the sport for time became veri-
table craze with me. l interested a
of Englishmen and Americans
in it, and we really fell into the habit of
getting up wave riding parties. 1 had
become SO skillful that rarely missed a
wave, and could make my way out with
ease and come riding in with perfect
equipoise. / became so daring that l
often swan out beyond the rest that !
might obtain the full force and exhilara-
ton of the ride, and one day when the
sea was particularly high and rolling
very heavily l met with my adventure.
CHASED By A MONSTER.
There were six of Us enjoying the
sport, with as many natives. ! had a
plank especially made for the purpose,
wide and stout enough to bear my en-
tire weight, and by lying upon it soon
forced my way over the incoming rollers
and fioated in the comparatively smooth
water beyond. Here l turned my plank
and waited for good roller.
Every third one was, as rule, large,
and finally big, green bodied one came
in, shutting out the horizon.
AS 1t came I caught it, and as felt the
motion lightly sprang to my
feet and steadied myself on the monster
that extended up and down the shore
and was rushing to its own destruction.
"On / went, shouting gayly to my
on the beach. Then sud-
denly became aware that something was
beside me. gave a side gil nee and the
reality almost made me lose my foothold
upon the rushing plank. What Jaw
was the sharp dorsal fin Of q man eating
shark cutting along through the water
ike knife. The monster was thirteen
Dr. more feet long and was partly turned
up toward me, showing the white, gleam-
Ing ur'er surface.
those few seconds can hardly be imag-
ned l gave myself up for lost, as be-
ieved the shark would soon rush at the
plank, when over l would go, an easy
victim. | do not know that have more
han ordinary nerve, but it flashed
through my mind that possibly the shark
vas waiting for me to fall, and would
1ot make an attack unless did, and in
some unaccountable way was enabled
70 retain my self possession. Every sec
md was gaining; every second brought
he big wave nearer the beach Now it
vas on the verge of breaking. Still the
;hark maintained its position. Then |
heard the welcome roar above me, and
Town it came like an avalanche, scintil-
ating and cleaning, until with one
mighty burst the aquatic monster broke,
For a single second l stood in the gleam-
ng mass. and then was dashed upon the
peach safe and sound.
The shark did not come in, which
vas evidence to me that il had not been
overcome by the rush O. the water, but
vas simply following NE with due re-
yard 10 iss cuisine [ need hardly say
hat this was my last experience Eding
breakers there. Upon inquiry learned
hat natives had been attacked by sharks