Morning journal and courier., 1891-04-01
The Use of Cream in Cooking.

There are very few people who have abundance of cream to use who make pro per use of the advantage. All good housekeepers know nowadays that a cup of the best made coffee in the world is stale, fiat and improbable without cream, unless indeed it be drank after dinner perfectly clear and strong. Ii is a barba- rism that only few of our cheaper res taurants are now guilty of, to offer coffee with milk. On the contrary it seems to us that tea gains nothing, but rather loses some of its dclicacy of flavor when served with cream, gaining body that is incon- siftent with its nature. There are none of the breakfast cereals that are not doubly delicious served with cream A pasty half cooked dish of oatmeal served with thin milk is quite 8 different dish from the same grain when each kernel of the mush is swollen out to full distinct perfec- uon, and it is served hot with ice cold cream. There is something particularly delicious in whipped cream served with any kind of sweet fruit Preserves of all
  yet what a comparatively rare thing it is to see them served iu this way, except in families where there is a French chef. The use of cream in soups and meat dishes is only beginning to be understood in this country. There are few of the thick white soups that do not owe their perfec- ton to tine cup of hot cream added just before serving. Dreamed chicken, or chicken served in fricassce in which the yolks of eggs are freely used with cream is especially delicious. There are few dishes of fried fish that may not be apprO- priately served la creme, or in creme sauce. Often a cream sauce is made of milk, and it is very nice made in that wsy, but by way of variety make use of genu- inc cream and see how excellent the change is. Croquettes and many other dainty en- trees of meat owe their supreme excellence to the use of cream. Thus far we have | not touched upon the almost innumerable delightful desserts that may be made with foundation of cream. Charlotte Russe becomes the simplest of desserts when | once the art of beating cream is acquired. | This can be done with an ordinary egg | whip, but most persons can succeed better with a cream churn. The ordinary little | churn of tin, cylinder but two inches ! across, is of no practical value. and there | | a churn should be cylinder at least three | and a half inches across and about ten | inches long, Cream can be rapidly beaten in such a churn. As the froth rises it is | skinned of on sieve, which is placed over pan to drip. There is always some cream in quart that will not beat to froth, and this will drain into the pan and should be used for coffee or some other purpose. It is not necessary to beat | cream to a froth in making ice-cream, ol | in making desserts in which cream is used. | Bavarian creams and all varieties ot
 mousses call for beaten cream. That grand triumph of tine French chefs art, 6 gateau St. Honore, is made with a combi. nation of puff paste and the boiled paste
 used for celairs and cream cakes
 Whipped cream properly favored and
 sweetened and a suitable decoration ot
 candied fruit completes the dish. An iced
 or cold rice pudding made with a mixture
 of whipped cream and boiled rice proper
 ly favored is one of the best desserts WI | have