The record-union., 1891-05-30

forming the Enclosure, which was built
by rustic stone maSonS under Mr.. Rus
kfn's personal direction, is now as Itch
ened, messy and gray as the fellside rocks
out Of which its stones were hewn. As /
stood there for time drinking in the
beauty OF the spot and the quaint simple
1ty of the structure face appeared at the
window. Then another was seen beside
it. The latter was big and rosy. It was
the face of a keeper. The former was
deathly white, features, hair and beard.
1t was pressed against the pane as if with
the meaningless impulse of babe. In a
moment more two white claw-like hands
were raised. These clutched nervously
at the bars of the sash. The whole pict-
ure was as If the living shade of Ruskin,
for an instant, hnplored for release from
imprisonment. despatringly exerted
last feeble struggle for liberty, voiceless
but eloquent cried out to God for flight
mountains to the Ultima Thule of eternal
rest. 1 could not bear to see it longer,
and heart-sick from the frightful picture
and Its dolorouS suggestions, made haSty
flight from Brentwood. forsaking the
pleasant highway and plunging bravely
towards Wfndermere over the rugged
Furness Fells. In three hours' time
after stumbling among tir-crowned rocks,
descending shadowy crags, crossing foam
ing ghylls and circling lonely tarns-I
suddenly came to the edge of circular
dell or dingle at the western descent into
Dalepark, about two miles from the south
ern end of Esthwaite Water. A tiny ghyQ
leaped, the edge where l stood, into the
dale below, plowed its way In a spumy
force" through the little hollow, and
leaped out again in the direction of Esth-
waite Water, and l saw that the only en-
trance to the strange basin was alongside
the latter waterfall. l also saw in the
little dell, nestled along either side of the
foaming, force the round, brown
hooded tents of the largest gypsy camp
l had ever come upon in England.
As for upwards of quarter of a cent
ury any gypsy camp in any land or CLINE
where L have found it has been my home
as long as wished to tarry, and as it was
already late in the afternoon, / was not
long in making circuit of the fell-brow,
clambering down the sides of the little
glen entrance-where / saw that a seldom
used way led through protecting larches
to the Patterdale highway-and securing
a hearty welcome from three of my tawny
Rommany friends who were biding be-
side the smoldering campfire.
There were but few in camp at this
hour of the day. These were the very old
men who were pothering at all manner Of
tinkering upon broken donkey carts, don
key gear that required mending, and
pans, pots and kettles which We're being
renewed in true tinsmith style for peas
ant housewives roundabout many young
chauvies gypsy children) that We're at all
sorts of rustic children's games, and the
gaunt old Spae-wives, too old for the la
bors and articles of the road, who still
always serve to hold the reins of good
government in any gypsy camp well in
hand, while brayely preparing the even
ing meals against the younger wanderers
return.
During the interval had leisure for ex-
animation Of the picturesque camp and
time for learning much of the ways and
annual journeyings OF this particularly
large single community OF English gyp-
sizes. There were sixteen tents. / knew
that meant housing for from score to
two-score gypsies. They were indiscrim-
tnately scattered along the little stream
over whose channel, cut in the solid rock,
one could anywhere step or leap. The
dingle comprised, perhaps, eighty acres of
land. The part chosen for the camp was
dearly love. Larch, tir and few fine
beech trees were deeply rooted in the
grassy mari on either side. And under
meath these and along the patches of
copsewood and shrubbery at the circling
edges OF the dingle, as well as here and
there along up its sunny sides, was graz
ing IN abundance for the donkeys which
seen more picturesque gypsy camp,
possibly, excepting one / found in a tiny
canyon off the Guines CalZada, Just out
side of Havana, Cuba. From any portion
Of the camp one had in full view the lower
reach of Esthwaite Water, silvery Win
dermere beyond to the east, with the
towns of Bowness and Windermere loom
ing against the emerald sides of Brant-
tell behind, and vet the wanderers en-
campment was wholly invisible to the
spying constabulary from any of the
highways or foot and pony paths of the
Lake region.
Here were representatives of all the
English gypsy families ofnote-the Whar-
tons, Stanleys, Reynolds, Smiths, Brew
ers and the Falls, Baileys and Boswells,
descendants from the Scottish gypsies of
Yetholm by intermarriageS of generations
ago. They were all originally potters and
packers. Their former permanent home
was in Westmoreland and Cumberland.
In olden times they made all the rude
delft ware used by the Umbrian peasant
~, and by Journeyings into Staffordshire
brought back in their carts over the old
Liverpool, Manchester and Carlisle coach
road much of the better ware-even trad
ing in ''Mintons" and "Wedgewoods'' at
the houses of the Umbrian gentry and
nobility. Now they have their winter
homes in Liverpool, Birmingham and
anu IIlc SHOW ana
primroses are showing their pale lusters
besides the English lakes, the gypsies are
back here in their old haunts many of
the men dickering and trading at the UNI
brian fairs, and often buying and ship
ping horses to Manchester and Liverpool,
some pursuing their ancient calling at
tinkering and osier work, and the women
selling willow ware and trinkets, and
reaching rich harvests at dukkering for
tune telling) among the Umbrian danes
and the less credulous but more generous
tourists who throng the lovely region.
had not been in gypsy camp since
my last years brief wanderings with the
Rolnmany in our own loved land, and it
was like delicious homecoming to see
here. There, were the rude FORCES that
could be slung under the creaking carts.
There, innumerable odds and ends of the
real tinker's craft. There, the amp-fres.
which, low as they may smolder, are
never allowed to wholly go out, because
they represent lingering loyal trace of
olden Aryan fre-worship. There, crouch
ing by cart, or tent, or fire, or on launches
at the glen entrance, as If sentipeling the
glad eyentiae return of absent masters,
were the brave, loyal, gaunt and voice
less gypsy dogs. Here and there the ket-
tie sticks-not the stage tripods which
burlesque gypsy reality, but the strong,
SoacIeuly -prlLeO, CROOKED iron kettle SUCKS
with their sizzling pots beneath. While
here and there, but always facing each
other and the fires between, were the real
fonts of the Rommany; hoods rather than
tents; wooden blankets like our grand
. mothers stout old sheets, stretched over
! oaken bows and fastened with polished
| oaken skewers, all so snug and strong
that no ordinary storm can wreck this
! tiny gypsy home. And knew that my
bed, this night, would be beneath one OF
| these, on piles of sweet rushes from the
silent tarns above, mingled with fragrant
| fronds of larch and fir.