The Fort Worth gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-189?, 1891-04-16

ing extremely picturesque when worn with
the pretty frocks, such as Gainesborough
painted. For the elder sisters who have
had eight or ten years the start there are
straw hats trimmed with wreaths of flowers
and bow Of ribbon in the back.
The dresses of misses are made simply as
IS most fitting Where plaids are used the
gathered skirt is cut on the bias, the sleeves
are full and a waist fastened in the back,
which is round, with a slightly pointed
front under-iacket edged with tiny tinsel
galloon.
The jacket suits for misses have gath
cred skirt and fitted cutaway Jacket, sleeve
less, with full sleeves, and blouse made
with Z yoke, of striped surah, having
ruffie Of the silk around the neck and down
the front of the waist below the bias-cut
yoke, which brings the stripes in Us in the
center.
A very pretty mode for the figured silks
and challies so suitable for young girls is 10
have the high bodice gathered around the
waist on live or SIX cords an inch apart and
carried up in pleats on the should
ers A frin Of the doubled ma
terial falls below the waist in the back
only
Very full straight sleeves are gathered on
two clusters OF three cords below the elbow
and have a frill at the wrist. The collar
band is covered by a ox-plaitcd rouche of
gros grain ribbon with satin edges. A knot
with ends of ribbon is set each side at the
waist line next the coat frill. A hemmed
skirt of three or four breadths may be
made with or without q foundation skirt.
The neck and wrists of such dresses have
finish of white, either of ribbon or lace
edged luffiing.
\ pretty decoration for challes and all
light material is lace set in at the throat
and continued in jabot TO the waist. The
tichu is worn, as is the girdle, both being
made and ornamented with jet beads and
pendants that ensnare a woman's fancy
and beguile her into spending money.
Spring gowning for all ages shows the
coat on the jacket front: the former must
be perfectly fitting with long basque and
pockets on the hips. Black and yellow con-
tinue favorite combination, and black
India silk with figures in gold, the coat
front opening over i front of black net
gathered at the waist into u pointed belt of
gold passementerie, the skirt hanging
straight 10 the feet and corded heavily in
perpendicular stripes with gold tinsel
braid edged with Jet on either side These
stripes are set thickly and are matched
by others like them running down over the
ribs Of the huge nct-covered parasol. The
hat which completes this costume is
small horseshoe of black net with an edg-
ing of Jet paSsementerie in vandykes, max
ing a narrow brim which turns down at an
angle over the hair in front, but stands
erect in glitterins pickets about the inner
curve OF the horseshoe behind. 1t ties
under the chin with narrow gold ribbons.
India null net tulle, chiffon, surah and
mousseline de sole are used for the rest
of the dresses. Null is particularly pretty
for this purpose, and is used with any ma
terial Il is light, cool looking and when
tumbled may be replaced 1t little cost. The
fullness of the vest is i'll every instance
held on by belt or girdle, usually in tinsel
or beaded. as best suit the color that enter
in the material.
OF color a writer on spring STYLES says:
''Color and fear not" is the motto of all the
world of women, at last. Those who have
worn black and brown all their days are out
now in blues and greens, in light grays and
in heliotrope shades, and while more color
is easily seen in street dresses. there is L
pageantrv of brilliance in house and party
gowns.
Another change that is particularly no.
ticeable is the lengthening of the waist, and
no effort is spared 10 make it as long as
possible. This is quite Il change from the
style of wearing under the arm that was in
vogue last year and will probably return
before two years roll around Corset
makers are iu readiness for the long WASTED
era. and the merchants now have in stock
new cut lOug-waist corsets, pliable
and shapcly For evening wear they come
in all shades to suit the dress and for the
summer there are the canvas corsets that
are cool and better ventilated; the latter
meet the ideas of the dress reformers. and
it may afford the young women of the period
satisfaction TO know that if she does not
draw the strings too tight she has the ap-
proval of the women who have grown SO
much wiser than their grandmothers whose
fashions are now beingoadopted.
Dress reform is run mad. and one OF the
phases Of the mania is an attempt to devise
for business women I distinctive costume
that while il may be convenient viii surely
proclaim that the wearer is not q lady of
leisure. To the majority of women this is
absurd. No woman wishes 10 go about
uniformed and there are COM
paratively few who cannot elimi-
nate from their costuming whatever
binders their freedom in work that engages
their time. Left 10 their own devising
clever woman will be suitably dressed and
yet maintain an Individuality that none
can afford 10 lose. The popularity Of the
blouse is proof that women mean TO be
comfortable, and it is 4 dainty. pretty add
ton TO the toilette, especially when made of
silver gray and white striped silk. The
tucked front of white silk is clean. cool
looking. soft and starchless, and seem to
gently defy the impsiness that results in
any other fabric in July. The loose front
now seen in almost every costume induces
necessity for belt or girdle. While the
leather ones are broadened into point