davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

rich brown watered velvet. The dress was
cut high (singing birds have to think Of
their voices this severe weather), opened
from throat to feet over narrow front oil
plated silk, the palest of greensS Down
the center from the waist. broad, hand
some steel passementerie reached to the
double frilI of silk and green Grape, which
came to the feet. The velvet on each side
was edged by the same passementerie, which
also formed the high collar. On each side
of the skirt was q panel of pale green silk,
hardly more than an inch wide at the waist
and gradually opening out to the full width
ofa breadth. Long fitting sleeves of velvet
trimmed with steel passementerie, and with
irill OF pale green Grape coming well over
the wrists finished this artistic costume.
With this diamond and turquoise ornaments
we're worn.
Madam Raymond Lynde, the wife Of the
well-known portrait painter, looked well
with her FURNISHED gold hair, in a black
corded silk train, with black lace 'front.'
looped with jet ropes over crimson silk
petticoat. Black, square-cut bodice. with
black lace elbow sleeves over crimson silk,
bunch of holly in the center of her bodice
finished distinctly admirable costume.
auOtutE pOWu was VI ldCry iuduc
with one wide lace founce, rather scanty,
and falling from the knees to the feet. A
lace blouse, low-necked and short-sleeved,
was gathered in at the waist by pale blue
band. At the back was a sash, broad Per-
sian scarf of pale blue silk, with multi
colored palms.
A handsome brunette was clad in black
satin redingote, edged with black Spanish
lace. This opened on front of light olive
green brocade, with pale pink flowers as the
pattern. This tablier, beginning from the
throat, slightly draped by the brocade, being
gathered not too fully on each side. Satin
sleeves, slashed longways at the upper part
of the arm to allow puff of brocade to come
through, the cuffs also being of the brocade.
A green opal cameo fastening the redingote
at the throat completed a slngularly rich
toilette.
Probably that woman will manage her
husband best who best manages herself"
saws Marion Harland. "Model wives are
very apt to have model husbands, on the
same principle that poor workmen always
have poor tools"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
WOULDN'T CROSS A BRIDGE.
An Odd Superstition That Kept Senator
Hearst From the Race Track.

An Odd Superstition That Kept Senator
Hearst From the Race Track.
New York Press
Senator Hearst, who owns Tournament.
was not present to see his great colt win the
big Realization stakes, although he started
from the Windsor Hotel, where he was
staying, to do so. He got in cab intend
ing to drive to the Thirty-fourth street
ferry. Through stupidity on the part of
the cabby and forgetfulness on the
part of "Uncle Geol ge," the cab rat
tied down town and was at the Brooklyn
bridge before the mistake was noticed. The
Senator could have crossed the bridge, and
gone by way of the Long Island road, but
he smiled sadly and ordered the cabby to
drive him back. Less than a week after
ward be admitted to a party of Senators who
asked him why he had not been present and
who knew that he was not ill, as had been
given out. that superstition was at the bot
tom of it.
at would be bad enough to cross the
BRIDGE" he said, 'but you don't catch me
crossing bridge in a rainstorm. to 60 to any
horse race. oh, mol There's just enough
of the miner left in me to make me a shade
superstitious. You may laugh, but felt
that if had gone down that day would
have hoodooed my colt and he wouldn't
have wou"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

America very pronounced views on this
subject, yet there are many in high social
circles who do not exact the wearing of it
this the waitress may regret, since it en-
HANGED the beauty of the fresh, fair face be-
meath it.
Americans Abhor Livery.
The theory has been advanced that re-
pugnance so widespread and so general is
traceable to natural born prejudice which
Americans and Americanized foreigners
have toward appearing in livery, as if q
white cap and white apron were badges of
servItude. There may indeed be something
In it, If this should be found to be the
cause in any particular case, the matter is
one entirely and alone to be determined by
the good judgment Of the mistress. 1t is
easily seen that In some cases it would be
an imposition upon a spirited, well-mean-
ing, but inexperienced girl. There should
be no trouble in dealing with cases of this
mistress and dutiful servant ought to, in
such circumstances, come to a mutual un-
derstanding.
Another important duty of the waitress is,
in the words OF the common phrase, 'to
keep still tongue in her head" and to be
apparently unconscious of the conversation
carried on among the guests.
just Like Dealing in Enchre.
The order of serving is from right to left
beginning at the right of the host and end
ing at his left. The entire serving must be
done with the tray, passing always to the
left when the guest is expected to remove the
dish from the tray-otherwise, the waitress
places the dish at the right. Serving may
be facilitated b. having the water soup and
bntter Gf it is seryed) in place before din
ner is announced.
In making removes do not attempt to pile
or scrape the dishes or to gather the cutlery.
Take up the salts and peppers on tray, also
the scraps of bread. Clear the table OF
everything except the glasses, and the olives
and the fruit (should they be placed on the
table at the beginning of the dinner, as is
often the custom). The crumb-scrape, of
course, should be used after the table is
cleared, previous to serving the desert.
The woman who can train a waitress, and
the waitress who can carry this training into
effect, have right to be proud of their ac-
complishments. ELLICE SERENA.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

Here is theater coiffure' for an elderly
lady. The frame is made of black stiff net,
wired with ribbon wire and covered with
black velvet. The pointed front is edged
with double row of large cut jet beads. A
scarf made of lace two inches wide Joined
by the straight edges is arranged in large
fiat bow on the back, and two lace scarfs at
tached at the sidesI form strings.-Hdrper's
Bazar.
A pretty innovation in the wearing of
natural flowers among the London bellies, is
q small horseshoe made of violets and worn
on the left side of the bodice or jacket, as
one would wear an order. In Paris flowers
in the hair either in wreaths or pompons,
are once more in favor for evening dress. A
good way of employing artificial flowers is
the spray fixed along the outer stick of a
gauze fan, matching those painted on the
fan. At q dinner party recently young
girl in slight mourning wore simple black
net dress, with low neck and short sleeves.
She had substituted flowers for ornaments;
round her neck and wrists were chaplets OF
fragrant Parma violets forming necklace
and bracslets. A new bodice ornament is
huge gold lace butterflies mounted on wires
and studded with imitation gems. The
upper wings are as large as a spread-out
open hand, the lower ones little smaller.
They grasp the folds of drapery, the lower
ones folded on the breast They are very
snowy and somewhat startling, but not in
appropriate to the pantomime season.
"In managing a husband" said Ella
Wheeler Wilcox, "a woman should always
bear in mind that, she being less able to
! live in a state of single blessedness than he,
marriage confers upon her the greater bene-
ft. This being the case, it follows as log
ical sequence that it is the duty of the wife
to make more sacrifices than the husband.
In any sacrifice that she makes she should
always seem willing and cheerful. If she
observes that rule she will soon find that
but few sacrifices will be asked of her, and
that those she makes are fully valued and
amply rewarded.
"Young wives are often apt to be too e1-
acting. They think their husbands should
always be in the same state of fervent love-
making that they found so delightful dur
ing courtship and the honeymoon. They
forget that love, like the day, has its dawn,
its morning, its high noon, its afternoon and
its evening. It is unreasonable for wife to
expect her husbands love to be at high noon
throughout the whole "a hours. the cool
evening and the chilly night must inevitably
be brought by the adverse winds of business
worries and the thousand cares and annoy
ances of everyday life. Be patient during
such. times, when the glorious sun Of your
husbands love is veiled from you, and never
for moment lose faith that the clouds will
soon lift and bright dawn and genial noon
shine forth again. And when you see signs
of their approach do not act coldly or show
resentment of the cloudy hours during which
other matters than yourself have engrossed
your husbands mind"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
Where Women Get Coppers.

"Where do women get so many more cop
pers than men?" was asked of street car
conductor by New York Herald man.
"Well, you see it is this way" he re-
piled. "there never was a woman who
didn't love to 60 shopping, and then, of
course, they are always on the lookout for
bargains, and the consequence is where thev
trade everything is marked SO cents, 81 81,
99% cents and so on. 1t makes the women
think they are saving money and at the
same time it makes us an awful bother, for
in every purchase they make they get lot
of coppers which they, in turn, unload on
US poor conductors. Men don't give us cop
pers often, so we generally shove ours off on
the women"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

knickerbockers. 1t was very amusing to
listen, after the little speech, to the discus
sion, in which the most extraordinary state
ments concerning the vie intime of the
mondaine came out We would have be-
lieved it, that so many of the daintiIy-
dressed ladies, with the elegant rustic of in
visible silk about their walking dresses. are
revolutionary enough to wear them only
over knIckerbockers, and like it immensely.
Mrs. Bryant. Sc. D., advocated the new in
yention, Miss Sharman Crawford applauded
ii, Mrs Eva McLaren gave it her support,
and many Others, charmed by Mrs. Han
cocks dress, were "almost persuaded" 1t
is, indeed, women like Mrs. Haacock who,
if they are only courageous and consistent
enough, can make a rational dress popular,
and make people swallow" even the rather
unsightly CATERS for which the plea is
entered that they are perfectly delightful
TO the wearer." Unfortunately, not every
woman is either graceful or pretty, and
what heightens the charm of belle by its
piqUancy and individuality, would convert
the plain woman into what, in coster jargon,
is called ga hobjec."
Bright pink will always be a fayorite, be-
cause Of its effectiveness, but this year New
York seems to have gone crazy over 1t. For
O pink dinner. like many that will be given
during the next three months, the entire
menu is to be kept of that shade as farias
possible.
At small party which gathered round
the friendly board in London recently, there
were some toilettes worthy OF notice. First
and foremost the popular 'contralto Madam
TrebeIli, looking remarkably well and
handsome, was sttired in q Princess dress i
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

plain language) and slip bodices. and that.
instead of putting us into the mud, as the
ordinary skirt does, it lifts us above the
mud. This it certainly will do, for it is
FIVE inches shorter than the ordinary walk
ing dress, and rather pals on the unsus-
pecting beholder till one begins to remem-
not point out in her delightful little "Song
of the Skirt'-namely, that it is actually
this kind of garment which everybody is
agreed makes the French chatelaine look so
piquante and charming when she sets out
pour la chasse.
With regard to the absence of the "slip
bodice" and petticoats, well, a waistcoat
(oEe might cali it) of Jaeger lining is a
substitute for the former, and the latter are
replaced by what Mrs. Hancock
several times, though inadvertent-
ly, called knee-breeches, but which
in polite language are yelept
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

Here is an embroidered Grape dress that is
calculated to make any belle shine at the
ball. 1t is one OF the most popular this
season.-Hdrper's Bdzdr.
Prudence has taught many fair one to
leave her wraps in the hall, and appear in
the warm drawing room without cloak or
jacket. Thus she avoids severe cold, by
being in turn appropriately clad to the inner
warmth or outer::cold, besides attaining the
not altogether inappreciable result of showing
pretty gown to full advantage. For this
purpose nothing is better than the "Portia"
cloak, so easily slipped on and off, At this
season it should be lined with fur. For the
afternoon these cloaks look best in some
subdued color, with the yoke and Medici
collar, thickly braided in gold or silver. They
are the best of theater or evening wraps and
they look exceedingly pretty in pink, blue,
green, mauve or gold color, brocaded silk or
light cashmere. Beading is handsomer
than braiding for night, pearl, steel or gold
beads and rainbow-hued bugles being very
effective. A most convenient head gear is a
long scarf about two feet wide and four feet
long, made of merveilleux satin and edged
all round with friil of lace, folded double.
Worn over the head with point in
front over the forehead and fastened under
the chin with brooch, it makes the pref
tiest of hoods, the double frill of the lace
forming a most becoming frame to the face.
In the theater or at the ball, unfolded to its
full length, it is once more scarf for the
shoulders and light preservation from
draughts at time when a cloak becomes
cumbersome and too warm.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

pressed rod mounted in the tube and con
nected with the scraper, and handle
mounted loosely on the spoonhandle and
connected with the spring-pressed rod.
The other variation is suggestive of an
effort on behalf of the wearers of mustaches.
To sip from the side of the bowl OF spoon
is correct, according to table manners, and
the wearer of mustache has to use the COM
mon spoon in that way, or 70 without soup,
if he objects to being an unpleasant object
with the edge of his mustache dripping with
food. Besides being an offense against
good manners, it is awkward to thrust
out the hand and wrist in efforts to
project the point of the spoon into
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
FANCIES FOR THE FAIR.

A New Idea in Dress Reform Has Found q
Following in England-Bits of Fashion
Gossip From Dispatch Correspondents
Across the Sea-Smau Talk.
81 shall go out in this dress tomorrow"
said Mrs Charles Hancock as she stood up
on an improvised little platform in her
drawing room at Queens Gate, London, and
exhibited on her own person the latest addi-
tion to tie long list of so-called rational"
dresses. If success is possible for that
much-derided garment, the present attempt
to naturalize it has certainly all the ele-
ments of success in it. The skirt is not di-
vided, there is nothing of the 'bustless,
waistless, hipless body" about it, and lis in
ventor and first wearer is a woman who is
not only in society, but who knows also the
art of how to wear clothes, which, as every
woman will admit is by no means COM
mon accomplishment, says the Pail Mall
Budget. The two illustrations give good
idea of the tweed dress worn by Mrs.
Hancock, who claims for it that it
sboishes skirts (petticoats, that is, in
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

the mouth, but most wearers OF mustaches
would be willing to make the awkwardness
as slight as possible if they could enjoy sip
ping soup, or tea in that manner. The in
ventor of the bent handle limits the possi-
bility of awkwardness in handling. and
boldly attacks well-established usage, but it
is doubtful whether the ungraceful shape OF
his variation will be accepted in place of the
present straight-handled spoon.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
Coffee by the ThimbIefui.

After dinner coffee cups grow smaller and
smaller. Some chatelaines have introduced
such tiny thimbles of porcelain that one.
small swallow drains the vessel. The spoons
with these are not much larger than salt
spoons and the Jumps of loaf sugar are cut
to the requisite smallnessf -
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
Domestic Economy.

Washington Star.]
"You married rich wife, didn't you2'
asked Harry ofshis erstwhile friend.
"Yes," he sighed, "but she's never de.
clared any dividends yet,n,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18

first variation is suggestive Of
the kitchen and the sick room,
as it can hardly be supposed
that the inventor desired to
change table manners, and that
his idea was that the bowl
should be filled and that food
should be suddenly inserted
by the action of a spring, un-
less medicine for feeble pa
tients be considered. It is
more than likely that the
variation is intended for use in
cooking or some operation,
like candy making. in which
substances cling to the ordi-
nary spoon and cannot be
cleaned off without considera-
BILE waste. Certainly the use
of it at table would be worse
than bad manners. It is q
combination, with a spoon, of
a slidable scraper inclosing
the bowl, tube on the back
of the spoonhandle, a spring.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
NEW NOTIONS IN SPOONS.
One That Cleans Itself and Another for Men
With Mustaches.

Two Yankee geniuses have just distin-
guished themselves in the spoon line. The
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
In Days of Egypt's Greatness.

In ancient Egypt women were merchants
and traders, colleges tor their instruction as
doctors were. instituted ], 200 years before
the introduction of Christianity. Woman
founded Egyptian literature, she filed the
highest offices of religion, offered sacrifices
to the gods, sat upon the throne and pro-
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
Sentiment of the Public.

But Wnlle eccleSlaStlcal courts SLlll IOrDlQ
while General Conferences still hold out
while church councils still harangue and 60
on about the audacity and sinfulness OF
women aspiring to become preachers, public
sentiment tavors the innovation. With
equal educational advantages, it cannot now
be contended that women are untitled for
the work. The Women's Christian Asso-
Citations, the w. G. T. us, the Woman's
Clubs all over the country, are educating
their members 10 a knowledge of their
rights and privileges in both sacred and
secular affairs. With three-fourths of the
church members women, it is easy to see
that revolution is not far off. Statisticians
give the facts, and a smart woman furnishes
the following conclusion: "Ninety-fve per
cent of the drunkards are men; 95 per cent
of the criminals are men; 20 per cent of the
paupers are men; ergo, all preachers of
purity, sobriety, honesty and high morality
should be men. Logic is logic"
Perhaps a careful study of canon law and
ancient history would make the clergy a
little more chary Of promulgating as fact
that woman, before the Introduction of
Christianity, twas despised and rejected of
men; that her thoughts, ideas, her fame and
her very life were regarded with contempt;
that she was held, as were serfs and animals,
for the use and pleasures of lords and
despots." A recent writer disputes these
assertions by the statement that in ancient
Rome woman had secured personal and
property rights that gave her great degree
of iudependence-tha she oficiated as
priestess in the holiest Offices OF religion.
The morning call., 1891-08-23
CARS RUN BY WATERFALLS,

Wonderful Advances Achieved in the
Application of Electricity.
The advance in electrical matters Is really
marvellous. Recently we noticed the fact
Of village in tile Alps being lighted by
electricity. the power being derived from a
water-wheel. A recent number OF the En-
gineer also tells us thatin the town of Dover,
on the Salmon Falls River, on the division
line of the Maine and New Hampshire, the
water power furnishes not only light and
heat to that town, but also to several distant
towns. Power is also furnished to street.
railway seven miles in length. The water
wheel has capacity OF 800 horsepower.
Greenwood Springs, Colo. is in a blaze Of
electric light. Mills, pumps, hoists and
tramways are successfully run miles away
from the power station at the falls During
the winter months the Pelton wheels. al.
though lncased in ice for weeks together,
keep spinning away without cessation.
In the north Of Ireland the Giants Cause
way Electric Hallway, eight miles in length.
derives IFS power from two Alcott turbines
that drive the dynamos that deliver cleo
trio power TO the motors OF the railway.
AT Burgenstock, near Lucerne, Switzer-
land, there Is an electric mountain railway
which, with Its appurtenances, is triumph
OF engineering. The Burgenstock is almost
PERPENDICULAR; from tue shore of Lake Luz
cerne 1t is 1880 feet, and it is $500 feet above
sea level. The total length of the road is
nearly mile, and it is operated by two dy-
namos OF % horsepower. Between Pazzala
and Lugano in Italy, there is large water
fall which supplies the water conducted
through iron pipes to the dynamo-room
where two Glrard turbines of 800 horse
power each run two dynamos, one for con-
llnuous and one for alternating currents, the
former working the tramway motors and
the latter supplying nearly 200 16 candles
power lamps at the hotel and in private
Duildings.-EX