The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-12-06

the sleeve head is larger than the arm, bola
by q inches for an AVERAGE man re-
uiueIence In the English coat is only savan-
elsaLns OF an inch. This makes a shoulder
wien, am bound to say, does not look
vel on anybody, but il is the real
English article. The back of this
coat should be cut straighter than the
aLlerIcan style, and, IN general, 1t should
not NJ so well anywhere. The Eaglishman
- better dressed than the American, bat he
800 - ~ spite OF his tailor, not with his
assistance. A good many genuine Poois
coats are altered in New YORK. Some Eng
tlsh tallors have agents in this country who
lake mea ures OF anglomaniacs and send
tEe orders 20 the other side. The clothing
winch results from tets process is NOT cal
culated to lull those feelings of hostility
"nlcn have survived from the revolution
airy war.
~ have written at some length about coats.
mere Is nothing to say OF vests, except that
tney are cut rather short now. Any tailor
should make vest fit well. But the paut-
aloons-oh. there's the rub. Where IS the
genius who shall rise up and tell Us how TO
prevent bagging at the knee! 1t NAV
De amellorated, but that is all. When il
Is excessive the fault Is not in the cut at
tine Knee, but in what tailor would call the
length OF the stride. This means the extra
cloth on the back, from the knee up, which
enables the leg to be extended or bent with,
out dlft1c lily. The necessity for this extra
cloth prevents the existence OF a perfect
pair OF pautaioons. There must always be
too much fullness at point back Of the
tnlRn TO look we'll when the vearer Of the
psntaioons Is standing erect But this
necessity should not be made to excuse
wrinkles all the way down the back of the
leg. There may be plenty of cloth TO prevent
excessive bagging at the knee, and it may
De 30 disposed as 70 conceal its superhuity.
The man with broad hips should make
his tailor allow for that unusual "beam,"
but never let him run the fullness all the
way down to the knee. This results in
those wrinkles at the sides from the knee
up, which are so distressing to a man who
Is sensitive about his dress. Don't let any
tailor excuse such cut; he is sticking to
his system aud neglecting the special needs
of the customer.
One Of the most common defects in pam
falcons is the failure to fit close to the leg
on the outelde, between the knee and ankle,
man with q large calf, placed too far out,
will be lucky II his trousers do not hang
two inches away from his ankle. But there
is no need of it. The cutter can easily put
sufficient fulness into the design to allow
the leg plenty OF room, and then narrow
the pantaloons at the button. The diff
Guilty hero is more often with the man who
makes up the garment. He fails to get the
inside and outside seams even. Careful
basting will avoid 1t.
This sort OF leg is usually somewhat
bowed, and 1t requires a straight inside
seam. Pantaloons are nos now cut with any
"spring." They fall perfectly straight
down, TO strike the shoe at a point just
above whore the lacing begins
Never choose q cloth that will stretch for
pantaloons. Avoid what are called basket
goods. After you have chosen your pat
tern ask the cutter whether it will make
up well. Try 60 get the truth out of him if
you think there is any in him; and, If he
inspires confidence, abide by his Judgment,
for there's great deal in selecting proper
cloth If you wish well-fttiug pantaloons.'
ALBERT EDWARD TYRRELL.