The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-09-13
FALL FASHIONS.
The Prevailing Styles Emphasized In
q Striking Manner.


The Prevailing Styles Emphasized In
a Striking Manner
BROOKLYN, Sept. 12.-"Do please tell US
about the fall fashions" This request comes
from my readers. and so gladly give what
ever information l may be able to impart.
By this time my friends must he aware that
care less for fashionable life and fashion
aoIe dress than for anything else in the
world. l like pretty aud artistic costumes,
and am always pleased if they are ad-
mlred by others, but l am not in the least
disturbed If they are not fashionable or. in
the accepted and conventional sense OF the
word, stylish. There is way for those
VINO have good sense, good taste and gump-
ton to construct costumes that are individ-
ually becoming, that are perfectly comfort
able and hygienic, and that violate no estab-
hshed rules. The woman who can work on
this basis will always look well, and, SO far
as her clothes can make her so, will be well.
The first thing to be noticed in the fall STYLE
Is that Whist may be termed a general sinki-
ness. The radical fashion caterers. having
tried to bring back the hustle and that most
outrageous Of ali undergarments, the hoop
skirt, and having failed utterly to do SO
decided to emphasize the prevailing style.
So they have ordered that 1.-THE human
form divine" whether long or short.
stout or lean, shall have a small, long
waist, small hips and a decidedly
unpetticoated appearance The chief inten-
ton in this most ridiculous and I'm becoming
mode is to restore the corset to popular
favor. Corset manufacturers and dress
makers who pride themselves on their Skin
fit" and charge small fortunes for the maxi
ing of one handsome costume have been in
despair for the last year. Sensible under
waists that allow some freedom to the breath
of life are spurned by ''modistes Of reputa>
ton" So we have now come to slinkiness,
and to my mind it is the worst step that
fashion has ever taken.
The following is conversation which took
place bet ween one Of Boston's most stylish
dresmakers and your correspondent. After
having shown me the corset with its in
Vulnerable whale bones and steels, and mar
row old-fashioned board "busk" in front
the corset was a Psrisian importation as well
as an q omination-I remarked tactfutIy:
But isn't this corset of unusual lengthW
40, yes, she answered smilingly. "You
see we have now to reduce the corpulence
of the hips as well as the corpuence of the
abdomen. We must now have breadth and
fullness of bust, with tiny waist and hips.
assure you the style for our fall and winter
costumes are simply dreams"
But what if nature has given one large
waist and large hips-what then?n l in
quired.
"These corsets are absolutely perfect and
reliable" my companion replied. ''Of
course, in order to quite cure the tendency
to enl6Onpoint our ladies must never be off
duty, SO to speak. Several of nv custom
ers wear these corsets at night, and it is
absolutely important that they shall be put
on in the morning in all cases of unfashion-
able siZen
It will be difficult for my readers to be-
lieve that did no. utter q single word of
protest on this occasion. 1t would have
been westad breath, but was it no. enough
to make one say something awful? The re-
aliZation that this woman was what the
fools and butterflies of fashion had made
her, kept my mouth closed. One learns
after awhile when to speak and when to
keep silent.
In order to secure the slinkiest possible
effect equestrienne tights are to be worn and
one India silk petticoat, gored at the hips,
and just wide enough TO admit Of "a
chicken-up-to-Lhe-dou gh-dish-step." Then
the acme Of slinkness is reached by long
train. This will be held up at street cross
ings and in muddy places, if the wearer so
elect, by means Of an underneath loop.
Inopposition to this we can place the knee
skirts and top boots of the other radical
wing. Such e costume, though ipexpressi-
bly, ugly, is comfortable and in the line of
health. 1t is not as immcdest as the slinky
gown, but it Is unnecessarily inartistic.
The first costume may be called wicked,
because it is in defiance of health and COM
mon decency. The second may be called
ugly, and silly, since it is not needed.
There is a very sensible and an exceed
inglY pretty, comfortable, and healthful
dress, which is a modification Of both these
Objectionable styles. Corsets, of course,
do not form a part of the costume. We
have the eQuestrienne tights and no petit
coats, although the observer would not de-
tect the absence of this ancient and time
honored article of wearing apparel. The
dress shirt is light and scarcely touches the
tops OF the boots. The blouses and bodices
are made to fit the waist and hips, as they
are without compression. There is no med
ding with the figure, since the designers
believe that the human form is about right
as it is, and that Gods work is not likely to
be improved by corsets
1t is refreshing to be able to state that
the last mentioned style of dress bids fair to
be very popular.
There will be the greatest possible liberty
in hats the coming fall. the only change
being In the use OF wire for the trimming.
Milliners tell me that while ribbon will be
used as much as ever, the loops will not
stick straight up in the air as has been the
case lately. Feathers and even fur will be
worn on hats and bonnets this winter. the
first to match the fur on the outside gar
meut.
The Bernhardt glove is again in vogue.
the large, longwristed and wrinkling glove,
and the shades Of tan are the favorites
Black gloves will De worn with full dress
especially when the costume is of light
colcr. Harmonious contrasts are eagerly
sought after.
The French skirt, which was worn so
universally this summer, will be very pop
ular for fall and winter wear. II has no
opening at the back, and is made of doub le-
width goods-the selvedge for top and bot
tom. Its only seam is a bias one at the
back. Darts are taken at the hips, and the
back is gathered into a small space. Two
short Sits on each side Of the frUnt, with a
row of buttons and false button-holes, form
the opening.
If this skirt is made of lightweight
material. hangs from the shoulders and
swings clear Of the ground, 1t will be found
comfortable and fashionable.
ELEANOR KIRK.
The Sunday Morning News
Will be found regularly on sale at the fol-