New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-12-27

Crum will live his days on the spot that his
cooking has made famous, and Will die nowhere
else II is hard 10 believe that he is slXty-seven
years old, but such is the fact The only indlca-
tons of age are in his voice and in the thin short
gray whiskers on his chin His step. once light
and elastic, is heavy, but that is due to high
living and the consequent avordupols that has
overtaken him since he gave up the chase us
eye though there is good deal Of Indian In IT, IS
as soft as a gentle woman's. and his voice Is low
and slow and very pleasing to the ear. Every re-
mark is accompanied by smile and punctuated
with little cough that lends TO his speech Il
peculiar charm
Though an Indian in appearance, Crum has both
Spanish and German blood in his veins, anc there
are times when :hc C;0sc observer can detect in
him characteristics of the three races. He comes
of the Stockbridge tribe His youth spent in
chasing the deer in the forest and in casting for
the specked beauties that form the main attrac-
ton of the lakes and streams Of the AdirOndacfs.
In time he became q mighty hunter and faith
full, skilful guide and his services were IN great
demand. The head of rich family in Saratoga
employed five hunters 10 supply his table with
game, paying them SIS month each. besides
their board and lodging. He heard Of Crum, nj
that time boy of nineteen, gave him trial, cit
gagged him at 81 30 month and discharged the
others. Crum kept the larder filled with the
choicest fish and game-trout and bass, wood
cock, quail, partridge. deer and bear. His COM
panion in the woods was an old Ffenchman, and it
was from him that ne learned to cook. Morning
after morning night after night, for years he
watched the veteran hroiling fish and bird and
afterward the veteran watched him. correcting
every little mistake, till the pupil as
perfect as the master Hunting parties partook OF
their open-air hospitality, and having tasted
their food. began forthwith to spread their fame.
On the death OF the Frenchman, Crum took up
his abode at the place where he now lives. hill
near the southern end of Saratoga Lake about
four miles from the village. William H. Wander
bilt who was extremely fond OF canvasback duck,
but could not get them cooked properly in Sara
toga, sent q brace TO Crum TO see what he could
do with them. Crum had never seen canvas
back. but, having boasted openly that he could
cook anything willingly undertook TO prepare
these.
II kept them over the Goals nineteen minutes"
he said to the writer recent visit; the
blood followed the knife, sent them TO the table
hot, and Mr. Vanderbilt said he had never eaten
anything like them in his life"
Mr. Vanderbilt became Crum's friend and hacker
started him in business. and with numerous
following was his constant visitor during the
SaratOga seasons tll .tDe lasb year vi HIS lllt
With none but rich pleasure seekers his guests.
Crum kept his tables laden with the best of every
Thing, and for il all charged Demonico prices.
he might have charged more and heard no
complaints, for after one Of his dinners no mar,
however mean and stingy. could haggle over the
price in these eleven years he has fed over
$4,000 people. 1t is said that an invalid travelled
800 miles TO eat one of his woodcock People
went to him in swarms, herds. droves and fiocl1s.
and were turned away by the score
hour after hour, because he could not
feed them all His rules Of procedure
were his own. They were very strict. and being
an Indian, he never departed from them. In the
slang of the racecourse. he played no favorites.
Guests were Obliged to await their turn, the mill
ionaire as well as the wage-earner. Mr.. Wander
bilt once was obliged TO wait an hour and half
for meal. jay Gould and his family have