The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1891-08-26

the accepted cut, and the velvet collar viii
have have an unskimped suficiency. 1ht
inner goods for winter overcoatings are il
those makes that ruff beautifully under
tho hand. Smooth n dull looking a,
first, with a few weeks wearing the nap viii
fairly brlstle up and show to an enhanced
advantage. The textures appear to be q
cross between elysian and patent beaver
TIE effects are very rich but quiet. The
shades are almost lndefinable and the deli.
cate dark tintiEgs understandable. Gray
seems to be the employment shade IN
achieving these impressions upon back
ground bodies of deep mulberry, dark blue
and wine. such overcoatings have not been
seen in many = day.
There is an important change in the con-
struction Of that most comfortable gar
ment in the vocabulary of mems wear, the
sack coat. 1t is to be made to fully realize
tho meaning of the word sack" That is,
it is to be loose in fit. 1t has been hereto
fore shaped in at the back, imparting an
appearance Of snugnsss. Now the back will
be straight down, and the from will be full;
but the shaping will be at the sides, and by
a deft manipulation under the arm secure a
neglige effect, doing away with the stiff and
mechanical suggestiveness OF the coat as
it is.
Stripes in trouserings will continue to be
In the lead. The cut will be a trile mar
rover. If anything, than last season, and
llkAtly HOT0 AOllOW6u OuU ONCE blc 1uBU8Us
The hesitanoy of Americans in adopting
the frock coat of dull, ~soft-tinished fabric
is difficult to understand. This coat, with
its short-waisted, long-tailed look, silk
facing on lapels to the ~buttonholes, and
narrow single stitch finish, has been the
ultra garment of semi-formal dress with
Englishmen of AMI for the past two sea-
sons.
1t is now being made with the skirts long
and loose enough to hang in graceful folds
from the waist line. It Is certainly a dis
tinguished looking coat, and this fall will
undoubtedly find the leaders OF New York
swaRRerdom sa%nctioninR its acceptance.
The fall and winter Derby hat shows Q
marked divergence from the style that has
been in vogue. 1t is conventional and be-
coming. and will therefore be popular. The
brim is reasonably upon the narrow mold
and the crown of the square-round tend
ency. The tall hat IL a. vet "unannounced,
but the English style is upon the marked
bell-orowned and ourl-trimmed type-a
renaissance Of the block of forty years ago.
1t is distinguished and becoming withal.
The swells will continue their harmless
innovations upon the collar and lapel of
the swallow-tail. but any ssviOus deviation
from the recognized evening dress is not
even haznrded. The revival of the crush
hat. however-a most -commcn-sens and
profanity -deterrinR idea-will be more gen.
eral the coming season.
The precedence of settled neokwear il
now ~undisputed. The swagger idea IL to
endeavor to indicate by some touch of I'M
evenness that the neck-dressing is not of
the made mp iik. The full-dress lawn
oravats are actually formed in X-shaped
irregular effects, so AZ to avoid the imputa-
ton of being mistaken for the mechanical
cAtoh- and-buokls bows. Bat the scarf
makers are alive to this feeling and follow
closely in their made-up production-for
the greater mass of the masoulinity that
can not tie their OWE neokwsnr-the models
of the self-tying faction.
That bit of texture within the lapel open
ing 10 the one enoroaOhment upon the
domain vouohsafsd to the sterner
sex. The tendency for the coming fall 10
for striking effects in deep mauve. mulberry
and other novel c%olorinus. that will DO
qusllsd to the usual ratio Of subdusd
brilliancy BY a treatment In ~tiRurings Of
smaller design.
How o~levsrly ths artistic balances are
by the designers that conserve