The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1891-08-01

| nlSh the natives with f0ou, urlnk, IHatci,
rope and other necessaries. A slight tax
is paid to the government for each tree by
the people, and the lower leaves are cut off
each year to invigorate the fruit growth,
leaving their straight trunks covered only
with the barbed ends of leafy stems. At
few points along the river we see large
groves of these palms. What an ideal park
or picnic ground such a place would make;
no underbrush or low branches, but rooted
hall of plain columns. At frequent inter
walls a native village of low sun dried brick
houses, or rather huts, is passed. 1t it is
village of any size one sees a few plastered
and whitewashed two story houses, very
plain, with no attempt at architectural de-
sign, though the mosque, with its minaret,
has generally some such pretensions. Such
view is interesting in that it is primitive.
At numerous turns the tall chimney of a
sugar factory shoots high above the sur
rounding houses, giving u purely modern
touch to the scene This is the only Euro
pean industry in Egypt. The expense of
building substantial works, fitted out with
foreign machinery and steam power, is ne
cessarily very great Fuel is likewise very
expensive. Thus it is not strange that in
dustry is of such slow growth, and that
their native manufacture is at low ebb.
One of the most beautiful effects in
Egyptian scenery is obtained at sunset,
when all nature is wrapped in deep, calm
silence, and the different features of the
landscape and sky vie with one another in
presenting the greatest variety of successive
shading No bold, rugged promontories
break the soft lines of the landscape or add
a wild grandeur to the scene. The sky
coloring or after glow are of the most bril-
liant hue5, probably due largely to the hot
air of the western desert. A group of
isolated palms out in relief against the
gold, and pyramid only is needed to give
the finishing touch.
ToMBs, TEMPLES, ETC.
The many tombs and temples are much
of the same general character, so that a gen
eral description will suffice. The former
are long passages hewn out of the solid
rock of the hillsides, leading to a vault in
which the immense stone sarcophagus is
placed. Every available space is covered
with heiroglyphics and scenes in the life
of the departed, all carefully cut into the
stone, with the scenes colored, though the
coloring is now very indistinct. The tenn
Piles are massive edifices composed of large
interior courts and rooted halls, built
entirely of stone generally sand stone),
from so to 60 feet in height, the roof
supported at frequent intervals by immense
columns usually of artistic design, with
ornamental capitals. In the temple OF
Karnak, on the site Of the ancient Thebes,
one hall contains 1874 of these columns,
each about 10 feet in diameter. How the
work was executed is complete mystery.
As in tho case of the tombs, heiroglyphics
cover everything in the temples, presenting
a stone craven record Of the glory and
achievements of the builder and the deity
to whom the temple was dedicated, though,
unfortunately, in almost every case they
have been much defaced by early Christian
fanatics. The delicate workmanship yet
remaining, however, shows a remarkable
degree of talent and artistic taste on the
part of the ancient workmen. Avenues
of sphinxes originally led to the doors of
the most important tombs and temples,
though but few of the broken statues
remain in place. But it is expected that
excavations will bring many more to light,
together with ruins of all sorts which are
now covered with villages and the debris
of centuries. The job is a slow one with
the little money at command.
ISLAND OF PHILAE.
The most southerly point reached on an
excursion to the first cataract is the island
of Philae, about five miles above Assouan,
and at the south end of the cataract.
After an early breakfast donkeys are then
taken for a Is minutes ride to the adioin-
ing granite quarries, from which great
quantities of stone were shipped down the
river for the building of temples, palaces,
monuments, etc.
Most of the obelisks were cut out here,
and one yet remains but partially hewn,
an interesting relic of the massive work
accomplished in ancient times. The dom
keys were again taken for a three-quarters
of an hour ride through the desolate, rocky
region to the east bank of the river oppo-
site Philae, where dahabeahs are in waiting
to convey passengers to the island. Philae
is granite rock All yards long by 135
yards wide, covered with ruins of not very
ancient date, the most important being the
Temple of Isis, begun by Ptolemy PhiIa-
delphus in the third century, B. c., and
completed by the Ptolemies and Roman
emperors who came after.
From its propylon, 65 feet in height,
assembled by dark, narrow, winding stairs,
a fine view of the surrounding scenery is
obtained. The country is hilly and very
rocky, with an occasional narrow strip of
cultivated land along the river A few
trees are seen at the north end of the island,
past which the river winds between rugged
promontories to the cataract below. A
small village of the usual type is seen to
the south, on the east bank 1t is con-
nected by rail with Assouan. From there
the river is nayigable to the second, or
Great Cataract. This railway and the one
around the second cataract are the only
ones above Assiout, 250 miles from Cairo
and the terminus of the Egyptian Rail-
road. Two or three hours are spent wan
dering over the island, and after lunching
in small temple called Pharaoh's Bed
we take dahabeahs for row down the
river to large cataract which We land to
see. A considerable volume of water
rushes down passage 100 yards long and
IS feet wide between two adjoining islands.
The channel is deep and the water not so
violent but that the persistent Arab will
shoot it on the promise of 'backsheesh, I"
and on the promise of considerable sum
a person can go through in small boat.
From this point good view of the nu-
merous small islands of the cataract is
obtained. Those Of the party desiring to
return by donkey-back are taken to the
east bank, but for few shillings the small
cataract can be ssshot," and the return trip