Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-05-03

economizing in parts of the gown and first
evolve the sleeves that are now its most i'm
portant feature, for she well knows should
the allowance be short there can be
no economy used in the sleeve. There is
only one way to econo1nize; the sleeve may
be of different material and color, or it Is
permitted to take well fitting tight sleeve
lining and slash it and insert puffs that
may be made OF pieces OF something as en-
tirely different from it as possible. Then
put two deep plaitings around it just below
the elbow, frill OF lace at the wrist, and
all the other girls will be trying TO copy 1t
as the work of the cleverest of French mo-
distes. Slit an old sleeve anywhere and let
in puff or ruffie or eXcrescence OF any
kind with any excuse for being, and you
have distinctly new sleeve. In so doing
bear in mind that the first essential Of the
stylish gown is pair of sleeves, ample IN
proportion and elegant in substance.
The Ladies' Home Journal has this to
say about designs for cotton gowns: ''Ihose
of embroidered skirting have the same full
skirt, with high sleeves, on the round
bodice, made sufficiently long to tuck be-
meath the skirt belt This bodice may lap
over the bust, have row of insertion out
lining round or pointed yoke, or be OF the
simplest spencer shape, with the sleeves or
the embroidery. Simple hemstitched lawns
are trimmed with nainsook edging and IN
sertion on the round bodice. The neck Is
often cut in slight Y in front. Velvet RIB
bon bows are worn on these thin white
dresses. Satines are made up OF full
fronted bodices, high sleeves, straight
skirts and velvet accessories, or those OF
heavy ecru, guipure or Irish point lace"
Yol1es of embroidery on gingham dresses
fasten invisibly along the left shoulder
seam. 1t is then pretty fashion to have
the gingham waist reach up over the yoke
in point, back and front, with the edge
gathered and finished with embroidery
Surplice and spencer waists are worn on
gingham gowns, with full skirts. Many
bodices are given the coat appearance by a
deep side plating fastened to the skirt belt
Shirt sleeves have wristband of insertion,
and the full-topped coat design has turned
back cuffs of edging. Percales are made
with blouse waist, with one plat in front,
yoke in the back, high or rolled collar and
shirt sleeves. The skirt is simply hemmed
and gathered.
The little folks come in for their share OF
attention, and although children's dresses
are polka dotted, gay striped and biased,
there is nothing more decidedly in favor
than black. 1t seems homogeneous in the
extreme to use so somber hue for bright
childhood, and it is only excusable when re-
lieveG with colored ribbon trimming, en-
broidery or feather stitching. a decided
innovation is a Gretchen gown of black In
dia square-neclzed and sleeveless; on the
bodice is embroidered spray of cowslips
and on the skirt are five rows of yellow
Tom Thumb ribbon run through black lace
beading; the guimpe is of yellow silk with
black lace at neck and wrist.
From the Dry Goods Economist some
hints for dressing small boys are gathered.
Suits of white pique for chaps of three to
five years have kilt skirts and sailor
blouses, with V of striped pique, or col
lar and cuffs finished with embroidery.
Jackets open from the neck and kits of
piaue are worn with cambria, lawn or
nainsook blouses trimmed with a rolled
collar and gathered frill down the front of
embroidery.
Plaid kits are worn with blue, brown
or gray jacket. Irish point collar and cuffs
and a loose blouse of China silk or main
SOCK White duck suits have either the
knee or long sailor trousers for BOYS of five
and more years and kits for smaller chaps.
The sailor blouse has vest or V piece
fastening invisibly, a large sailor collar and
coat or shirt sleeves. This model also an
swers for white serge or flannel. Striped
flannel blouses are worn with plain kits or
trousers. The very long, wide sailor
trousers may be put on little boys of even
four years.
Blue flannel REFERS having anchors on
the collar AMI brass buttons are the desira-
bic Jackets for boys of three to even twelve
Years. They are single or double breasted,
and have small collars ending in tiny revers
OF wide sailor shapes.
kits require three breadths of twenty
seven inch materials. When of flannel,
pique etc, they have the broad box plat in
front, and four side plaits meeting in the
back from either side complete the model.
Jackets are without collars, that of the
shirt waist lying outside. Shirt waists and
blouSes are of wash silk, cotton, cheviot,
cambria, percale or nainsook.
Shirt waists have three wide box piaits
or tive-inch-wide ones, add blOuSeS are of
the loose familiar sailor design. kits of
plaid or plain cashmere, white waists and
velvet jackets are always pretty. Boys of
two to three years wear white pique, ging-
ham and flannel suits made with kilt or
gathered skirt and jacket or box-plaited
waists, the latter opening in the back.
Rolled and erect collars are worn and trim
mings of embroidery in the shape of cuffs,
revers, collar, belt. little vest and bands of
insertion between the plaits.
Pique braid and cotton passementerie are
used for trimming these little gingham
dresses, which may be made up straight or
bias Fancy cloth and straw caps, sailor
hats, rolled tub sailors and straw turbans
are worn by baby boys and those up to
eight years of age.