Los Angeles herald., 1891-08-29
The Grand Snake Festival
Over.
A Graphic Report of the Curl
GUS Affair.
Dancers Who Hold Rattlesnakes AS
Partners.
A Hard Journey to the Scene OF the
Ceremony-Characteri of the
Countfy-The Dance and
4lf5 ttfk ITS Features.
Especial correspondence to the HERALD.

I
Moqui Indian School, August %, 189l.}
There being only one mail week to
this remote region and as it does not
leave until Friday, August 28th, have
to be our own courier to the next rail-
road station, Holbrook, 100 miles over
the Moqui Indian reservation, and
desert. In all that distance there are
only three places where water is found.
By travelling all night and stopping at
these stations-one mail and trading
station about half way-the terrible
heat and binding effect Of the sun on
the white sand is avoided. All this
had to 60 through, besides three days
delay at Bagdad, on the Mojave desert,
owing to cloudburst at Fenner on the
14th, which washed out seven miles of
the railroad bed, the track having to be
lowered IN sections to an entirely new
bed. Though the delay worried me lest
1 should not reach the reservation in
time to see the great snake dance, got
there just two hours before the dance
begun but had to 60 through a terrible
ordeal.
l reached Holbrook about pm.
Thursday, August Goth by starting that
night and travelling twenty-fou hours we
could reach the village. At Z pm. we
were on our way. The first resting
place is sixteen miles at sheep herd
er'a house called the H ranch, from a
brand formerly used on the cattle. An
adobe house, with fireplace in corner,
table and benches are left here for
travellers an old well that came near
falling into is located on the west side OF
the house. The water is brackish, but
they water cattle with it. Such a
picture OF desolation as it is one lone
tree stands near corral in front of the
house at some distance, then a great
rock looms up to the hack of the honse
called the DEVILS rocket. How the
thirsty and tired travellers strain their
eyes to see that rock, and how glad they
are when a dim speck is seen on the
distance, and how long the time seems
in reaching it, it is the only object in
sight to break the awful desolate
appearance for miles; as far as
one can see there is nothing
else but white sand and weeds, sage
brush, and low grass that grows lit
tie above the sand called gramma grass,
that sheep and cattle feed on. The in
terror of the house is in accordance with
the surroundings; once it was papered
with newspapers, but as each traveller
has called, piece was torn from the
wall to kindle the fire in the fireplace,
the only cheerful thing about the place.
The floor, though made OF boards, and
in very good condition, has never been
swept, and each traveller shakes the dust
from his feet in the hope that he will
never see the place again. No noise
breaks the awful silence, which re-
minded me of DR.. Hayes's description
of the Arctic.
The scenery on the way to the Indian
school and reservation is not at all SO
desolate as this particular spot, but for
sixteen miles either way there is no
change. There are sand hills to
climb, then extensive valleys
to cross enclosed by cliffs.
Here and there are broken
mountains, standing alone, as
suming all shapes just as the sun strikes
them, some like old cathedrals, all
showing curious formations OF rocks and
beautiful colors. On these cliffs the
different tribes of Indians used to build
their homes. Nearing the first trading
place and mail station, kept by Mr..
Stowell,, soon after sunrise one of our
horses fell and got out and walked the
rest OF the way. This place cannot be
distinctly seen at distance, but is
known to travellers who are familiar
with the road; it is located just at the
foot OF a great mountain Of adobe just
the color Of the ground, low and not in
viting. Here quite large business is
carried on, trading with the Navajos,
buying their horses and sheep, that
Craze on the lands about here, and ex-
changing merchandise for blankets and
Indian trinkets. Here the sand is red
and the rocks are study, being most
wonderful in their formation. The heat
is dreadful. A good spring Of water fol-
household purposes, cool and grateful,
comes from the rocks.
No trees or plants have been planted
to make this place an oasis in the des.
ert. but little attention that way
would accomplish something as the
ground stretches into fertile looking
valley where the cattle and sheep of the
trader finds food, and the Navajo herds
of sheep and cattle range over the hills.
At4p. NJ. we start the tired horses,
refreshed with water and hay, we pro-
ceeded, never daring to 60 faster than 9
walk lest the horses should give out and
leave us. The next camping place was
in valley where the Indians had some
corn growing; we sought water but in
vain, 80 camped and from there on the
Journey was wearisome. We walked,
but it was near daylight and not so un'
pleasant; the dreaded sand hills were
climbed and then the broad lands Of the
reservation were reached, though the
school was.yet twelve miles away. Ce-
dar trees grew here corresponding witt
the live oaks seen in California and al
first thought them the same.
The longed for destination was reached
about $50. We followed the wagon
down the steep rocky road into the
cafion, opened the gates and were on the
ground where the government school II
located for the Moqui Indian children
As we approached the buildings tht
place was all astir; the government
farm wagons were being loaded with thu
Indian children, who were to have
holiday to witness the Indian festivities
and see the great religious ceremony Q
their ancestors, relic of barbarou
ages. doubt if Stanley in his travel
through the dark continent ever wit
messed anything more picturesque, 70
mantle and thrilling than this snak
dance Of the Moqui Indians. The rea
name OF the tribe used to be Hopita
signifying the good people, but Of recen
years they called themselves Moqui
meaning dead, and refers to their forme
dwellings in the cliG NOW abandoned.
W 1rhja4 Talfoio,1n .neraln0nV taken Mac