Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-09-24

ininity that kept alive in her nature love
| for iace-like effect, and doubtless as the web
| grew and she entangled flower and green
| leaf she remembered regretfully the recep-
tons at the court OF Jupiter, and as she
| spun, sighed at the remembrance of the
| naughtiness that had banished her from its
gay scenes. She did not allow regret to
| stay her industry, but taught the daugh-
| tiers OF men lesson that they are not likely
to unlearn.
| Lace, in modern times, has no season or
| particular place. Like the fitch of bacon
and the black silk dress, it is very con-
venient to have in the house; and now gar
| rets and chests are being searched for the
treasures that were worn in the colonial
| days, Neither is modern lace-making re-
stricted to the using of filmy threads, for
metals and even more stubborn material
| are wrought into such delicate tracery as
| rivals the fairy web so often seen bright
with dew spangles. Lace will enter largely
into the fall millinery. Although tinsel is
on the wane, jewel effects and jet embroid-
| cries are now seen on most of the models.
BY some mysterious gift milliners will
| combine lace, feathers, flowers and passe-
menterie in such a way as to secure an ar
| tiStic whole.
| Perhaps one of the greatest novelties is
the use of chamois in. bonnets; pretty
crowns of this material are shown studded
with Jet or different coIored stones, moon
stones, turquoise, rubies, etc, these
wrought in Persian design. The shapes in
hats and bonnets show little change, and
| the preference seems to be for small toques,
capots or plateau shapes.
There see ms to be no decadecce in the
use of lace for dresses and for trimming. 1t
| is worn over satin, black and colored, and
| used for fiounces, ruffles around the bottom
| of the basque and gracefully arranged upon
the bodice. Chantilly is perhaps the favor
lite weave, but lace of any pattern is worn.
Prominent among the new fall and winter
wraps is the cape; to an ordinary eye there
| appears to be no material change in the
| shape although dealers tell you that the
| capes they show are the latest style. Long
| cloaks for midwinter have capes or cape
| like sleeves, are half loose, with Vatican
| back and tiaring collar. A very dressy out
| of-door garment is short cloak pleated
| into an embroidered, braided or jetted yoke
! with very high rolling collar, frequently
| edged with fur or feather trimming, the
| latter being much used for dresses. High
| sleeved coats are worn by young girls, and
jackets are being made without darts or hip
seams. The furore for gilt trimming has
| passed by and fur and feathers take the
| place Blacks and grays and the the diff
| ferent shades of tan will be the choice in
| color for the winter.
There is nothing more elegant in the way
| of gowning than the latest weave of Bed
| ford cording. OF course, it is not a cheap
fabric, costing as it does, from s. to s. yard,
| but then once bought there is not much to be
| spent in trimming. The weave this winter
| differs from the former in that the cords
| are larger and it looks like corduroy
Serge and cheviotS for the school girls
have no equals i'll point of durability and
| suitableness. There is no marked change
| in styles; the swing front and fan-pleated
back are still in vogue. The back fullness
| is arranged in two box pleats, reaching
| from the middle of the back to either side
| and the extra width made in fine pleats in
the back underneath the box pleats, and in
| order to hang well the skirt must be fitted
| with as much care as the sleeves and bod
ice The dip is said to be little shorter
than in the summer.
Plaids are still cut on the bias, both in
skirts and bodices. Misses and young
ladies' will wear guimps Camps of thin
material, silk or cotton, with warm under
wear. Bodices made with vests and
pointed back and front, with frills at the
bottom and mutton leg sleeves, are the
| prevailing styles in autumn costumes.
Whenever the gown is of the preferred En-
glish goods it is always tailor-made, cut
strictly correct, and always shows the
very best taste and style, more SO because
pretending to be simple.
The Pr:ncesse shape is much sought
after, and every gown that permits it is cut
in that way. No material is too simple to
he developed in it, and none is too rich but
care must be taken in making Princesse
gown to see that the skirt portion is draped
to suit the figure of the wearer and that
the trimming is so arranged that the figure
is brought out at its best.
A pretty design in camel's hair cloth is
Princsse gown cut so that the sections of
of the skirt flare apart and show dull In
dian-red velvet, gaining in this way COM
bination of autumn colors that is at one ar
tistic and becoming. The bodice portion is
double breasted, and closed with small, fiat
buttons matching the green in color. The
collar and revers ard cuffs are of the Indian
velvet, while the braiding is done with a
4 miXted soutache that showed red, green,
and gold, the darker shades in it predomi-
mating so that the effect is really much qui-
eter than one would suppose from the
description.
A simpler gown is made in this fashion
of dark-blue cancels hair. with velvet the
same shade, and having braiding of blue
and gold mixed soutache; or, if one objects
to the braiding, the velvet could form the
only decoration, the edges of the panel-like
skirt being simply bound with inch-wide
velvet ribbon.
CORRESPONDENCE.