The Monitor., 1891-03-20

Speaking of adventures, said my
companion, who had been listening to
number of stories told in the old boat
house, II can relate one that at least at
the time seemed exciting enough had
been travelling around the world, after
the fashion of Englishmen, and nad
stopped at the Samoan islands on my
way up from Australia to run them over
and gain some information regarding
the natives. their ways and customs. and
as Il result became enamored with the
place. climate and people. and remained
there nearly year.
During that time made myself
familiar with nearly all the islands of
the group, and one in particular had u
singular fascination to me Once on the
hill tops | looked down upon Il long
beach, upon which beat the finest surf
have ever seen. The waves were simply
great rollers. which came in slow.
dignifled fashion that was most impress
i've The men. who had al been there
before ran down the shore. where soon
saw them hauling some planks from the
bush. which | learned they had con-
cealed on Il former occasion. In short
the waves We're used by them to enjoy
one of the most exciting sports i,nagin-
able. and | was very quickly initiated
into it.
FASCINATING SPORT.
The men threw off what little cloth
ing they wore. Then each seized a plank
and attempted to launch it. This was
easier said than done. and many were
the upsets that ensued as the big rollers
came in. but finally all of them got be-
yond the shore and beyond the point
where the waves broke. and then saw
where the sport came in. Turning in
shore the men threw themselves upon
the planks. and, watching their opportu-
nifty. steered them so that they held
their position on the crest of the roller
and came in with it. Once under way
the natives skillfuly raised themselves to
their feet. and so standing upright came
rushing in. Some were tossed off. Others
were caught in the breaking wave
while the most skillful and intrepid re-
tanned their standing position until they
were literally flung upon the beach
Il was younger in those days than
am now. and soon convinced myself that
should enjoy this sport as well as the
natives, and. securing a plank. |, too,
pushed out from the shore The first
wave that struck me nearly drowned
nc. but dived into the next and my
plank beat me in about two minutes
During that visit | did not attain
sufficient skill to enable me to take the
ride standing. but on subsequent occar
sions ! became fairly proficient, and
then the sport for a time became veri-
table craze with me | interested "A
number of Englishmen and Americans
in it. anG we really fell into the habit of
getting mp wave riding parties had
become so skillful that rarely missed
wave. and could make my way out with
ease and come riding in with perfect
equipoise. ! became so daring that
often swan out beyond the rest that
might obtain the full force and exhilara-
ton of the ride. and one day when the
sea was particularly high and rolling
very heavily met with my adventure.
CHASED By a MONSTER
sport. with as many natives. | had a
plank especially n'ade for the purpose.
wide and stout enough to bear my en-
tire weight. and by lying upon it soon
forced my way over the incoming rollers
and floated in the comparatively smooth
water beyond Here turned my plank
shorewartl and waited for good roller
lr1
and finally Il big. green bodied one came
whirling in. shutting ont the horizon.
As 1t came caught it. and us felt the
transferred motion lightly sprang to my
feet and staadied myself on the monster
that extended up and down the shore
and was rushing to its own destruction.
On | went. shouting gayly TO MY
companions on the beach Then sud-
denly became aware that something was
beside me. gave side glance and the
reality almost made uie lose my foothold
upon the rushing plank. What | saw
was the sharp dorsal fin of man eating
shark cutting along through the water
like knife. The monster was thirteen
or more feet long and was partly turned
uptoward me. showing the white, gleam-
ing nnder surface.
What passed through my mind in
those few seconds can hardly be imag-
med gave myself up for lost, as | be-
lieved the shark would soon rush at the
plank, when over would go, an easy
victim do not know that have more
than ordinary nerve, but it flashed
through my mind that possibly the shark
was waiting for me to fall. and would
not make an attack unless did, and in
some unaccountable way ! was enabled
to retain my self possession Every sec
ond was gaining: every second brought
the big wave nearer the beach Now it
was on the verge of breaking. Still the
shark maintained its position. Then
heard the welcome roar above Inc. and
down it came like an avalanche, sclntll-
lating and cleaning, until with one
mighty burst the aquatic monster broke
For Il single second stood in the glean-
ing mass. and then was dashed upon the
beach safe and sound
The shark did not come in, which
was evidence to me that 1t had not been
overcome by the rush of the water, but
was simply following me with due re-
gard to its cuisine. | need hardly say
that this was my last experience riding
breakers there. Upon inquiry learned
that natives had been attacked by sharks
during the sport on several occasions.
When look back upon il and recall the
eo,,et,, Sf ,.t,ef,,,cy ~, x.-.,r.1 hi.,h ON tha