Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1891-07-23
DRESSES SEEN AT SARATOGA.
Where Dame Mode Has an Army
of Devotees.

Styles of Making Piazza Hats--Access-
ories.
Special Correspondence Gazette and journal.
SARATOGA, N. Y, July 16.-As
wealthy sojourners step from trains or
emerge from the conveyances sent by
rival hotels, the most callous observer
might be impressed by the handsome
tatfeta silk travelling cloaks of to-day.
They quite envelope the person and are
made up in style the reverse of simple,
showing yokes gathered on or composed
of numerous small tucks or plated
about the shoulders, while ornately
pulled sleeves contribute their quota to
the elaborate picture. Belts are Of
course a feature and encompass the
figure either loosely or closely. Such
dressy garments are an outcome OF
modern comforts in the way Of drawing
room cars and well appointed bullets,
where those who can pay need eSper-
fence little of railway discomfort.
Under these ornate cloaks, dresses of
thin India or China silk can be worn,
and, seated in an elegant chair, a belle
Of the season may look as coquettish
while flying along IN an express car as
when sauntering along some fashion
able highway. Tailor-made dresses of
light serge or homespun are, however,
very frequent, and better adapted to the
majority, while palmer cloaks of taffeta
or mohair may be worn for actual
service. Skirts Of light serge or silk are
also much worn with independent
waists of silk, which are desirable be-
cause so cool, since the majority are
made without Innings. In
PIAZZA COSTUMES
the peculiar effects of thin materials
over contrasting colors is very notice.
able. Pale green or pink over yellow;
heliotrope gray, tan or yellow over pink
or green or blue above gray, are some of
the contrasts, but their is no rule and
individual task has full play. Crepe,
crepon or chiffon are the fabrics chiefly
used over silk, but black lace, grenadine
or yelling net are likewise worn over
colors though some elegant dresses are
black over black, while at hops, some of
the most refined dresses are of white
lace or net over white. Most of these
thin goods are made with full waists.
THE BRocADEs
worn by matrons are more adapted to
shpib pdoiucs VI llt pltlCeoSt
which came into vogue rather late in
the spring, as a protest against the mon
otony of perpetual short basques finished
with lace or other skirtings. All told,
the shearh skirt is by far in the majority
and either plain throughout, as is some
times the case where the dress is of
heavy goods or trimmed variously
around the lower edge, may be set down
as the leading style. 1t is trying, how
ever, TO stout persons, and, therefore, II
is not uncommon to see plaits on the
sides with slight fullness in front, or in
case of thin goods, the gathers almost
evenly divided. Independent waists
have never been so important factor in
dress. Made of China silk, either in
black or colors, they are frequently
without Innings, and, therefore, cool as
muslins and sufficiently dressy for morn
ing OF afternoon wear on piazzas. 1t is
true that they do not become full figures
so well as the jersey, but that most use
full garment is, for the present, crowded
out, though its great comfort causes
belief that it can never entirely die.
PIAZZA HATS
become more varied every day and
while young people delight in the
Vassar which has sprung into extra
ordinary popularity, matrons wear as
their most dressy hats, those made of
stems covered with fierce looking thorns
that bristle among fine lace or show in
marked contrast to elegant flowers
placed above. Fine Leghorn, however,
is too, innately elegant to be displaced
and comes In for large share in the
expensive outfits Of this leading water
ing place. One lady has an assortment
of six, with four stem hats, three of lace
straw, four Neapolitans and four Vassar
shapes. With each hat is different
parasol and noteworthy among the as
sortment is Second Empire" of silk
crepe showing embossed figures in silk
outlined with silver; another also of
crepe, is embossed in silk and gold and
third is of satin striped tulle. On her
handkerchiefs can be detected the de-
lighful fragrance of Murray and Lam
mans Florida water, which indeed is
universally used by those who under
stand the refinements of the toilet, be-
cause of its delicately refreshing quail
ties.
ACCESSORIES.
White gloves, shoes and stockings
are fashionable fancy. Shoes are Of
white canvas finished by tips and bands
of white patent leather and having tan
colored heels and soles. Gloves are short
mosquetaires or sac shapes in undressed
kid or wash leather.
Dressy costumes arc most frequently
cut with small V back and front, and
pretty collarette adopted to such a
style is made of two rows of en-
broidered silk muslin three inches wide,
sewed to the edges of half inch Wide
ribbon band. After being passed around
the neck the collarette is fastened below
the throat with a jewelled pin and car
ried down to the belt, then forming a
jabot. Short ruches of white or colored
chiffon, with or without dots having
scalloped edges, are popular, and where
the neck is V shaped only in front a
small lace chemisette with deep revers
collar tc match, is also stylish.
Recamier coiffures show the hair
coming to a point in front and from
thence some strands on either side are
cut in irregular lengths and combed out
lightly over the temples. For full dress
the back hair is high and run through
with long pins. RosALrSD MAY.
Blown to Atoms by Glycerine.
PirTsBURd, July 1.-Two hundred
.I.