The Sunday morning news. [volume] (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1886-1891, 1891-09-20
FALL FASHIONS.
Startling French Color Combinations
New Woolens.

SILK petticoats are worn almost to the
exclusion of any others BY fashionable
women.
The square toed shoe is popular with
English women, but Americans prefer
the pointed Picadilly.
A large portion of the Henri Il cloaks
are this season made to match tue dress,
which prevents the patchy effect newt
aDIe when the coat or cloak differs from
the gown in color.
According to present appearances.
shaggy wool fabrics are likely TO be pre-
ferred before fpe cloths with faced sur
face. The detached eccentric patterns
that were popular last year are generally
repeated in tbs vest and other decorations
of the gown
Large single hearts OF pearls are used
as brooches to fasten thin stuffs.
Tortoise shell mingled with silver is
one Of the latest novelties.
Belts of perforated silver are worn
The new woolens are SO varied and so
universally handsome shat it would take
a whole newspaper 10 mention them The
very best show plain surface without
figure. Others have a smooth face with
polka and other shaped figures in differ
ent color, generally black and white
mixed. with tufts. They remind one of
those hairy noles on the face which the
French call grains de beaute. These
hairy tufts are found on many fabrics,
such as cameI's hair cloth, cheviot and
novelty goods. One style has a gray
foundation, completely covered with
coarse black and white hairs. It will
make stylish cloaks.
Old gold and old rose ara also among
the favorite new colors, and very pretty
dress is made of old rose cashmere,
trimmed with old rose India silk, with
black polka and black velvet ribbon, The
back OF the SKIRT is laid in fan piaits and
the front plain. except for the three up
turned plaits that look SO simple and yet
are the despair of the amateur dress
maker
DR. Foster, director Of the ODhthal-
mic University, at Breslau. has figures
and shortsightedness. He alleges that
in 800 cases that have come under his at
tention the evesight bad been affected by
the pressure of such collars upon the
muscles Of the neck, disturbing the cir
culation of blood to the head.
Sleeves are not nearly as large and high
in the newest costumes as they have
been. Many Of them. indeed. are scarcely
gathered at the top. Still they are not
to be called out, altogether.
Gauntlet gloves are very popular, and
the gauntIets are stitched In many orra-
mental patterns, sometimes in bright
colored silk.
Skirts with piped CORES are seen in
numbers. Many have a gcred seam di-
rectIy up the front. All fitness at he
waist is dispensed with, and the very lit
tie necessitated at the extreme back is adj
ded; and, on some novel French gowns,
the pleats or gathers here are set into a
kind of square yoke reaching about
quarter of a yard below the waist The
coat or basque covers this yoke, and thus
the figure OF the fashionably dressed wo-
man is made TO look still more elongated
and slim.
Some very startling French color COM
binations are noticed among new toilets
prepared for autumn weddings and other
ceremonial occasions Many of these have
an extremely stylish and elegant effect.
Much depends on the skill of the dress
maker or of the wearer of the gown in
discovering the particular shades of con-
trasting colors that can be combined TO
bring out successful results. Among the
very elegant models sent from Paris are
toilets of mahogany hued velvet with
giimpses of white and gold brocade shot
with pink; chestnut brown velvet with
revers of gold passementerie in Venetian
point patterns dotted with mock gems
ball dresses OF ruby velvet frilled with
pale pink chiffon. and Havana velvet
with sleeves la Veronse In red, Roman
blue and gold brocade.