Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-06-07
A GUEST OF ROYALTY.
Mrs. Sherwood Tells How Victoris
Entertains at Buckingham.
KING HUMBERTO Is DEMOCRATIC
Drinking the Cooks Health at the Banquets
of French Rulers.
FAT LOUIS XVIII. AND HIS STOMACH
WRITTEN FOR THE prsrArcn.l ]

age They have palaces and retainers fur
nished for them. They have purse which
knows no end. They are either by the
divine right, or by lucky chance, the per-
sonages of the hour. 1t is only when one
of them loses his head or is forced to'abdi-
cate, or falls by the assassin's dagger that
they approach at all our common humanity.
| Doubtless to them, entertaining being o
perfunctory affair, it becomes very tedious
Pomp is not an amusing circumstance-and
they get 30 tired of it all that when of duty
Kings and Queens are usually the most
plainly dressed and the most simple OF
mortals.
Royal entertainments, however, have this
advantage: They open to the observer the
historical palace, and the pictures, gems OF
art, and interesting collections of which
palaces are the great conservators. t
The Science of the Banquet.
It seems that Louis XIV, called lie
Grand Moaarqae, Louis, the magnificent,
was master of the art of entertaining
Under him the science of giving banquess
received in common with the other sciences
| great progressive impulse. There still re-
mains some memory of these festivals, which
] all Europe went to see, and these tourna-
TmentSs,- vi rsre for the last time shone the
lances, and the Kiig ightly suits of armor. The
! festival always ended with sumptueus
banquet where were displayed huge center
pieces of gold and silver, paintf2g and
sculpture and enamel, all being tributary 70
the hero of the occasion.
This fashion made the fame of Benvenuto
Cellini in Italy in the previous century.
| To-day monarchs content themselves with
having..these center pieces Of cake, sugar or
| ices. There will be no record of their great
feasts for future ages.
Toward the end of the reign of Louis
| XIV, the cook, the "corden bleu" received
favorable notice, his name was written be-
side that of his patron, he was called in
| after dinner. It is mentioned in some of
the English memoirs that this fashion was
not unknown SO lately as 30 years ago in
great houses in England, where the cook
publicly thanked for his efforts, and glass
of wine offered him by his master, all the
company drinking his health. This must
have had an excellent effect on the art of
gastronomy.
Queen Anne Knew Good Thing.
Nine. de Maintenon, whose gloomy sway
over the old King reduced the gay court to
the loneliness of an empty cathedral, threw
wet napkin in the science of good eating,
and put out the kitchen fires for season.
Queen Anne, however, was fond Of good
cheer, and consulted with her cook. Many
cookery books have this qualification, "after
Queen Anne's fashion" Under the Regent
Orleans, a princely prince, in spite of his
faults, the art of good eating and entertain
ing was revived; and he has left reputa-
tion for piques of superlative delicacy,
matelops Of tempting quality and turkeys
superb1y stuffed.
The reign of Louis XIV. was equally fa-
vorable to the art of entertaining. The 18
years of peace had made France rich, q
spirit of convivality was difused among all
classes. And the proper setting of the
table, the order, neatness and elegance as
essentials of well-ordered meal date from
this reign. 1t is from this period that the
history of the petit supers de Choisy begins
We need hardly 60 into that history of all
that was reckless, witty, gay and dissolute
in the art of entertaining, but as one item, a
floor constructed so that the table and
sideboard sank into the lower story, after
each course, to be Immediately replaced by
others which rose covered with fresh
course, we may imagine its luxury and
detail
One Louis Was q Cook Himself
The famous Louis XIV. was proficient in
the art of cookery; he also worked tapestry
with his own hand. We should linger over
his feasts with more pleasure had they not
led on to the French Revolution as hor-
rible dessert. His carving knives became
later on the guillotines.
Under Louis XVI there was a constant
improvement in all the occupations which
are required in the preparation of food"
Cooks, trditeurs, pastry cooks, confectioners,
and the art of preserving food so that one
could have the fruits of summer in the midst
of winter, all were started then; although
the art of canning" may safely be said to
belong to our own time-much later on.
In the year 1740 dinner was served in
this order: Soup followed by the bouilli,
an entree of veal cooked in its own gravy as
a side dish. Second course: A turkey,
dish of vegetables, salad and sometimes
cream. Dessert: Cheese, fruit and sweets.
Plates are changed only thrice after the
soup, at the second course and at dessert.
Coffee was rarely served, but cherry brandy
or some liquor was passed.
The reign of Louis XVIII, who grew to
be an immensely fat man, was a remarkable
gastronome. Let anyone read Victor Hugo's
lies Miserables," and an account of his
reign, to get an idea of this magnificent en-
tertainer. His most famous maitre d'hotel
was the Due d. Oscars.
The Cabinet Had to Wait
When he and his royal master were
closeted together to mediate dish, the
Ministers of State were kept waiting in the
ante-chamber, and the next day an official
announcement was made: Monsieur lie
Due d. Oscars a travaille dams lie Cabinet"
How strangely would it affect the Amer
lean people if President Harrison kept them
waiting for his signature because he was
discussing terrapin with Madeira sauce with
his chefl The King had invented the
"truff1es La puree d ortolaus," and in
variably prepared it himself assisted by the
Duke. On one occasion they jointly COM
posed a dish of more than ordinary
dimensions and duly consumed the
whole oft. In the night the Duke was
seized with fit of indigestion and his case
was declared hopeless. Loyal to the last,
he ordered an attendent to wake and inform
the King, who might be exposed to a SINH
lar attack. His Majesty was aroused ac-
cordingly and was told that d'Escars was
dying Of his invention.
"Dyingp' exclaimed the King, "well,
always said I had the best stomach of the
two."
So much for the gratitude of kings.
The Partisan restaurants, those world
renowned Edens of the gastronomer, were
formed and founded on the theories of these
turbances were to intervene in the year ITO
after the glorious days of Louis XIV The
wild dissipation of the regency, after the
long tranquility under the ministry of
Fleury, travellers arriving in Paris found its
resources very poor as to good cheer. But
that soon mended itself
uux.