Shenandoah herald. [volume] (Woodstock, Va.) 1865-1974, 1891-07-31
ASUNCI0N.
THE UNIQUE CAPITAL, OF THE
kEPuBLIC OF PARAGUAY.
Its Picturesque Sifuation-rieocs,ic
Lights on One Street and Graz
ing Cows in the Next
The Houses.

eler has seen this city he has seen the
ouintessencc Of all that is fine in the
repuLlii
Asuncion is charningly situated on
gently undulating ground, rising to a
considerable Height above the river,
which makes bend here, and forms Il
bay in which are anchored few steam
ers, many schooners, white Brazilian
gun-boat, and two OF three huks, while
close TO the shore are some long wood
RATS and cedar logs. To the northeast
Of the port, which consists merely of n
wooden pier, simple quays, and the usual
buildings Of custom-house and ware
houses on small scale, the beach for
some distance forms a broad Level stretch
of green meadows, bounded by steep red
sandstone cliffs, which are crowned By
the silhouettes of the principal edifces
OF the town-the palace of Lopez, the
Cabildo, the barracks, the dome of the
Pantheon, the Church of San Francisco,
and below this church, perched literally
on the side of the cliff; the suburb or
quarter called La Chacarita. All along
the shore are groups of women washing
clothes, with, in the background, a
flourishiDg growth of trees and Jungle,
and the town itself appears to be sur
rounded and interspcrsed with verdure
The view of Asuncion from the river
is delightful, but the view from the in
terror is still more so, particularly from
the high ground of La Cancha, 4 sort
of hotel and pleasure resort, stu
ated short distance to the east
From this point the spectacle is most
fascinating. The outer zone of the town
consists of belt OF low wooded hills,
dotted with cottages and yellow with
orange-trees. The inner zone, more level
but still undulating, slopes toward the
river, and appears covered with build
ings, from which emerge tall church
towers and. here and there, groups Of
trees; beyond this is the silvcry river
winding along between islands, jung!cs,
and shadows, and in the background is
the dark blue interminablc flatness of the
Paraguayan Chaco. There are few towns
in the world more picturesquely situated
than Asuncion, and few urban pano-
ramas that offer 4 beautiful distribution
Of soft hills, rich vegetation, pretty river
scenery, and grand and limitless hori-
zor.
The town is full Of surprises and con-
trasts. The hotel Of La Cancha, for in
stance, almost within stone's-throw OF
the virgin forest, is lighted by electricity.
Tic streets of As1ncion are, with two
exceptions, unpayed, and in some OF the
side streets cows may be seen grazing,
but all arc lined with tall posts and
cross-trees that carry innumerablc telc-
graph wires, and in some the old oil
lanterns have been replaced by electric
lamps. The town is laid out rectangu-
larly in cuadras, The streets running in
one direction toward the port and river,
and in the other tOward the wooded
country. These streets all 90 W and
down hill; they have high sidewalks,
more or less paved; but the roadway is
generally sort of deep and rugged val
ley of fine red sand, with hero and there
protruding rock A proof of the col'
dition of the streets Of Asuncion IS given
by the fact that there are no public or
private carriages the only vehicles that
can circulate arc OK carts, and higher
vehicles drawn by three or four mules.
Pack mules, donkeys, and riding-horsei
are also used, but for light goods and
passengers the great and indispensable
conveyance is the tiamway, which bears
the name of Conductor Universal. The
streets go on and on to the limits Of the
town, the houses and huts become less
frequent, but the deep sandy road con
tinucs between forests, orange trees and
innumerable varieties OF Towering shrubs
and creepers. The telegraph posts con
tinuc likewise, and with them the tram
lines and the cars, with their teams oil
i!-used mules, their dark-skinned drlv-
ers and conductors, who talk Guarani,
and barely understand 2 few words of
Spanish. One wonders what can be tho
use of tramway through the forest.
At last, however, after running some five
miles, the car stops at spot called Villa
Nora, where the streets are indicated by
lngcr-posts stuck in the open fields.
There are few country houses here, a
mandatory Of palm oil, hotel, and, at
a short distance, the church and cemetery
OF tie Recoicta The landscape is beauti-
ful, and the vegetation and flora OF a
variety and richness beyond description
the roads arc lined with orange trees
every hut ncstlcs in groves oil orange,
banana, lime, fig and palm trees the
hedges and fences are formed Of huge
cactuscs, convoIvuli and lianes. As foF
the cottages and huts, they are OF very
primitive architecture, most oil them
being built OF mud and cane, with bark
roofs; few only are of brick, with tile
roofs; and still fewer have more than
ono room, onc door, and one small win
dow, shaded in front by n veranda sup