The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-09-06
WOMAN'S FINERIES.
'5AB" DISCUSSES TIE DRESS RE-
FORM MOVEMENT.

Cranky Women Exploiting Under
wsar-Womsn Trotters-How "Oui.
da" and this "Outchsss" Portray
i Women il Their Novels-Namby-
upamby Young e'- Nestlers-Almond
Meal, My DesT, Makes Satin
bGheeks. Il III
/ Copyright 1871
/ NEW YORK, Septu Aft the things in
the shop Windows are any indication of
what the women insHew York are buying,
one would have TO eenclude that ell their
dGcats were spent in getting what is COM
moaly known as underwear" but more
elegantly as "lingerie.p Whether it il
that che dress reform movement has brought
aeoninably shaped garments TO the fore, or
whether it is that the shopkeeDers feel that
there is going to be reaction set in and
they had better get rid Of the old stuff, no.
body knows, but this Is quite true, the white
garments that our grandmothers knew are
being sold at one-third the cost of making
to public that doesn't seem to yearn for
them. Il may be regarded as due entirely
to the influence Of man-lovelY man, faith
ful man, athletic man-he has talked and
preached, and he has had pictures printed
in the newspaper of what q woman should
wear u1der her dress and the pictures re-
| presented nine OF the most diabolical gar
! ments upon which even the eye of the print
er's devil ever rested. Now, | am a re-
| former, but in the course of a long aud
varied experience | have never met any
women who wore nice pieces of underwear
at one time. The refOrmers are little off
there, or else it wasn't the women they
meant, it was the bargain counter.
43t CHAUTAUQUA DRESS REFoRMERs.
Like everybody else. have little theory
OF mYtown, and | think IL will DO the one
thatsWill get ahead OF the ladies at Chau-
tauqua, who are 50 very kind as to instruct
US as to what we shall wear, and how We
shalAput it on. Starting with the fact that
ones skirt has firm foundation, as firm as
! Plymousa Rock, and much better shaped,
the average woman who is in & .ol health
needs only to assume the somewhat long
silk HuieTyest, perfectly well-htttng pair
| OF satin says, matching the silk vest In
color, loag pair Of stockings, and the
| proper kind of shoes. When | say proper.
me Al proper to the hour of the day. am
not going about advocating the fat heels
and broad shoes, because, personally, am
addicted TO the vice Of wearing narrow
ones with high heels. | have but one ques-
ticn to ask OF my brother man, and that is
| this: Can any dress reformer in the world
| put fewer, pFetller, or more useful under
wear on wemau than that / have de-
scrlbedl Il is what half the women Of any
sense wear during the summer and it is
| commended not only by the women them
selves, but by the doctors who are not
crenks. a woman walks we'll and easily
when she hasn't got lot OF starch stuck
| about her, aud the lac that the Chautau-
| qua people are 80 foad of talking about
shows to much better advantage than when
she is uncomfortable in muslin, has strings
lifting Der because she has no stays on, and
is altogether fiurfied and flat-looking.
THE HUMAN FORM DIVINE,
| especially the feminine edition of it, came
in for 50 much discussion. They talk about
the line OF woman's figure with the
JUNCTION Of Dumas, aud they print the
| picture Of the Venus, aud call on every
woman 30 look iile that. think the first
| one that looked Ike that on the streets Of
New York would be run into the station to
| spend the night there. Fancy wearing suoh
rAperies! Why, you would have TO put
heavy iron weights In them, and then they
would bang against your knees, and you
would slt on them, and you would wish
that Venus had stayed down iu the sea aud
been comfortable. Then, too, isn't it lit
tie queer for people who are supposed to
cultivate the mind, or the soul, or the brain,
or whatever the thinking part Of people
sometimes ii is the stomach-to take up
such question as thiSl Would you or
your husband go there and let lot of
cranky women exploit underwear unto
| theml No, Of course you wouldn't. Its
much safer to le5 him go out and look into
the shop windows, because then you can go
along and tell him,wha really is aud really
is not pretty, aad YOU can educate him by
Kidding to tue dry-goods bill.
INFATUATED WITH DELsARrE.
Apropos Of not being hampered when
walking, between wearing the proper sort
of lingerie and being drunk with Delsarte,
it is possible that during the next winter
New York viii exceed Now Orleans in the
walk Of is women. just now, the New
York woman is little too emuhatic-she
places her foot on the ground as If she
owned 1t ,andshe has q nasty wey CT planting
her heel FIRST But, when she is thoroughly
| deoomposed, after Delsarte, not after the
undertaker's idea of it, she will walk like a
goddess. In the first place, she is bigger
and better developed than the men, for
New York, while 1t has few great big,
| fipe-looking men, runs rather to the other
extreme, aud If women want TO see big men,
they have TO seek them in the south or west,
or else go over the ocean blue aud find them
in merris England. decomposition, you
must know, is the ability to become sud
denly limp, and then to use whatever part
of your body you wish in the most grace
full way Mrs. Russell, one Of the very best
DelsartA teachers, says che can tell south
ern woman as soon as Yshe comes ia the
room aad sits down, for she sits naturally,
and her arms and legs fall In easy poses.
1t Is Unnecessary to say that after she told
| me this, | oldShed. But, at the same time
l credited it TO my natural Incidence rather
than my southern blood. The great trouble
with wonarf of to-day, according to Mrs.
| Russell, is that she hurries; every move
ment expresses her haste, and there is no
time for grace. You know you can get TO a
place Just as quickly by walking we'll aud
evenly as by trottiDg ana stumbling. The
inclination of the New York woman is to
trot but she is going to reform next winter,
and she is going to walk so well, that it
really will amount to more than having the
worlds fair here.
THE DEAR ATHLETIC YOUNG WOMAN.
The athletic young creature who, accord
ing to novels, simply Strides across the
lawn to meet the young man whom she has
condescended to knock out 10 one round
| with the tennis racket, goes out with the
first day of September, and the charming
creature who has been looking after her
form all summer and who can decompose
In the sixteenth Of secqnd, Twill "undulate"
or Drift toward you, raise her Dyes up
aud look at you aud YOU will think you
never saw q woman walk well before. 1t is
rather funny how the novel OF the day
affects Che bearing Of the women. At the
time that Henry James novels were be-
lieved, by some people, 70 have a certain
1 Il