St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1891-12-27

the charm of modesty was not in the
ascendant here. There was an appear
ance of loose simplicity of dress, but
fashion never ruled with such cruel
sway. Here is what was told in conf
dence by a good. decOrouS woman, q
belle OF the day: 1--WE wore almost
nothing; arms bare to the shoulder, back
bare almost to the waist, full bust al
most cut in two by rigid compress,
the thinnest of slippers and gossamer
stockings. | never wore more than one
dimity petticoat TO a party, and used
often to dampen that one before left
home that it might cling closely to my
form: one must show the whole outline
of the thigh to be elegant.
Is there any wonder that delicacy of
health and shattered nerves were fash
lonable for long years after these fol-
lies? See the typical mode of 1880
the hair loosely dropping. as if from
weary headaches. the back division only
drawn up from the neck-''put out of
the way" as it were-the whole style eX-
preSsive of feeble health.
Then came the young Queen Victoria
III lS45-chaste wife, model mother.
good queen. The hair of her head
breathes of a pure, loving woman =
smooth. modest braids. gracefully part
CA anu huOllCQ Ut ltlC OdCh llCdu.
In 1858 the French emperor married a
beautiful Spaniard. She Introduces a
lew fashion, not so artistic, more pre-
tentiOuS. The front hair is parted and
brushed boldly from the face over two
long, sausage-shaped cushions called
rats" The ear obtains its freedom
for good or for i'll; the back hair drops
fringe-like in curls over low comb.
Years pass; the Second Empire: Ma
pOleOn III. has grown luxurious and
corrupt. Behold the ruling passion Of
the period, 1864, set by the notorious
Cora Pearl. No grace is here, no eX-
preston, but gross. untidy display. The
front locks are triZZed and twisted into
horns; the ear as bare as can be made,
to show the ear jewelry. The mass of
hair at the back simply stuffed out into
the biggest shape possible, and false
braid covers the only part of the head
not otherwise defOrmed.
The luxury and corruption of the sec
ond empire came to sudden end in the
FrancO-German war OF 1870. Then the
old, tawdrY fashions dropped away.
False hair and stuffing were thrown off,
the crImped and burned front locks
were cropped into careless bangs"
the mass or hair, loosely braided, half
hanging down the back-all expressed
the indifference TO eXternalS In a woman
whose heart was broken and in despair.
But hope smiled again. The young
French republic succeeds, business
brightenS, wealth returns, and the GLORY
of a woman" is displayed in happier
days. The hair again crowns the head /;
the "bangS" are refined and curled.
Here is one of the prettiest fashions,
1886. But what can last?
The enervating march of luxury is
barred in these DAYS, not by wars, but
by many business disasters. Adversely,
the stern but heayen-sent ruler, has not
yet left the world to peace. Woman has
come to the front in the battle of
life. Her duties are more complicated,
her education more liberal, her mind
and heart more refined. Fashion fol-
lows suit. The present couture is dis
tinguished for its elegant simplicity.
The hair is gathered back into a simple
knot. like small corOnet set OH the
crown of the head, the front locks
parted and lightly drawn back, leaving
few curling rings TO relieve the face.
The mode expresses health, hope and
Self-respect.