The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1891-05-18

lived, and in whose actual though iinpal-
pable presence he so undeniably be-
lieved. Then a sturdier lot appear.
Just below Bowness to the left, StOrrs
Hall is seen. 1t was here that in 1926
such giants as the statesman Canning,
the philosopher, novelist and poet,
Christopher !" professor Wilson,,
the laureate OF England and bard Of the
lakes, Wordsworth, and Scotland's
greatest romauCer, Sir Walter Scott, met
and held high mental carnival, while
disporting like bevy OF schoOlboys, and
terminated the illustrious occasion by a
brilliant regatta on Windermere, in
charge Of Wilson as admiral Of the
Lakes" 1t would have been worth a
year Of ordinary namby-pamby life to
have sat silent among them and listened
during those rare and radiant days.
Windermere, but continuation OF
Bowness, is modern. The London 4
Northwestern railway penetrates to this
point. In the place Of Bowness, which
is now left in dreamful quiet, it has be-
come the southern metropolis OF the
region; Just as Kenwick, to which you
can come by rail to the northeast, is the
northern metropolis. The situation Of
Windermere is enhancing. Its stately
in splendid inns and surrounding coun-
try seats, similar to the grand mansions
along the Hudson. The place with its
modern suggestions and countless ar.
irving and departing coach-loads OF
tourists, sinks out OF sight beneath the
giant forest trees, when you have climbed
to the summit OF 0rrest Head, where
the PROJECT is still grander than that
from Brant Fell, behind Bownessi for
you are nearer the head OF the vale OF
Windermere, where the encroaching
mountain walls are highest, and the
noble lake itself makes the broadest
expanses.
But near as thisis to the steam whistle
and coach-horn, the undertones are even
here. From 0rrost Head, the haunts OF
every poet or prose writer Of the region,
save those OF Coleridge and Shelley
about Eeswick, are again visible. VIM
dermerc with its glorious foreground OF
foliage is seen in its entire length.
Range after range OF Lake mountains
rise beyond it to the west. The valley
OF Amblesid6- lays Ike half-defned
glen Of purple to the north, darkening
at its edges, changing to livid green
along the higher ranges, the crags OF
Helm, Fairfield and Nab Scar forming
great peaks ofsun-kissed splendorahove.
A mass OF mountain tops and misty
passes lie towards Ullswater in the
northeast. Along the ridges, towards
the Yorkshire moors, one purple furrow
shows where was laid the plot OF Rob
ert Elsmere," in Longsleddale. Besides,
here are the woods and waters OF Ellel
ray. No Cumbrian home ever held o
bigger frame, u greater heart or a loftier
and tendercr soul than the mansion oil
Elleray. The place is now Just as 1t was
when it was Christopher North's"
earthly paradise, with Several roofs
shelving away there in the lustre OF
lovliest lichens, each roof with its own
assortment OF doves and pigeons preen-
ing their pinions in the morning pleas.
aunce" and the giant sycamore, OF
which Professor Wilson himself said,
'not even in the days of the Druids
could there have been such another
tree" still shelters Elleray with its
mighty arms.
But six miles 10 the north Of the vii
lage OF Windermere, lies Ambleside,
more ancient, in that it was once an i'm
portant Roman station, than any other
village OF the Lake region Like Bow
ness, the entire place is hidden in
masses OF foliage and bloom. Number
less tiny mountain streams tumble
through it, and one turns the wheel OF
the Ouaintest and most picturesque old
water mill i'll England. Here, in n few
moments walk, one comes TO the famous
Stock Ghyll Force; and to the east and
higher still rises the huge ridge OF Vans.
fell, with Its visionary majcsties OF
light" MS Wordsworth sang, From its
summit grander prospects meet the eye
than No Bowncss or Windermcre. Yet
with all the enhancing excursions
among the scenic glOries roundabout
more pilgrims come to Ambleside be-
cause one woman gave its name to the
whole world. That woman was Harriet
Martineau. "Sceptic" some called her.
She held that shehad passed the bound.
aries OF scepticism and dwelt in q life OF
absolute faith. No one need grieye for
her views" when they resulted i'll so
grand and diligent life. No woman
ever lived who accomplished more actual
literary labor, or in that labor did more
for the worlds progress and humanity
ut large. Her old home, "The Knoll, 3"
is not stones throw from the high
way, but is so embedded in foliage as to
invisible from it. Just o few steps
through massive gateway, over drive
shadowyfromlauTel, hawthorne, beeches
and holly, brings you to sunny terrace
aaame with flowers; and then facing
about, the outlines Of the house are
gradually traced through masses OF ivy
pushing to the very caves. The gray
old Westmorcland stone can only here
and there be seen. The large bay win
dows are half-hidden jasmine, climbing
roses and passion flowers. And the
huge chimneys and gables hint of the
houses OF ElizGbeths time. The older
villagers say the light OF Ambleside
went out when they bore Harriet Marti-
reau's body to its grave in the old ceme-
terv ut Birmingham. But it seems to
me her good and kindly face must still
be shining there with the blossoms from
those great bay windows.
Just before you reached Ambleside
YOU could turn aside few steps from
the highway and see in Dove Nest, the
former home Of Mrs. Hemans. lmme:
diately opposite The Knoll, where lived
Miss Martineau, though hidden by the
majestic trees which line the banks Of
the Rothay river is another fine old
mansion, Fox Howe, where the great
DR.. Arnold passed the happiest hours OF
his life. Then to the right OF the high
way, not vile from The Knoll is Ry-