The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-05-24
HILL AND VALLEY,
STREAM And FORD.
A Charming Method Of Seeing Yosemite
and the Big Trees.
What May Be Seen While Journeying on
Horseback Through Hatchahatchie, the
Queen of Mountain Valleys.
Written for THE SUNDAY GALL

Written for THE SUNDAY CALL
Hallway between Lake Tahoe and 70
semitic at the head of picturesque mountain
valley is found the original mammoth grove
of California. 1t was my good fortune, in
wandering about, to reach this place last
summer, and wishing to visit I yosemite l
decided to go on horseback in as direct
line as tie mountains would permit in
preference 10 following regular lines of
travel.
Leaving the Calaveras Big Trees a
mountain pony soon carried me on to
ridge, where the first good view of the sum-
nit OF the Sierras is had. From here the
"Dardanelles" are seen, half-robed in snow,
rocky and prominent figures of the great
range. This ridge is the divide betWee
the tributaries of the Calaveras and north
fork OF the Stanislaus. The trail crossing
the latter by bridge ascends another ridge
and makes a gentle descent to Beaver Creek,
which, after crossing. soon goes into South
Grove" among its fourteen hundred Sc
quotas, huge but symmetrical. Most of the
tourists to the Calaveras Grove visit this
one also, the distance being about five
miles between the two.
From this grove to Lake Eleanor the
general course of the trail (where ii holds
together, evidently used by the Indians be-
fore the white man camel is southeast by
up Soap Greek Valley to the divide of the
middle fork of the Stanislaus, crossing that
river and its south fork TO the Mono road,
near strawberry Station" and on across
the north fork of the Tu0lumne Bells
Meadow Creek, Spruce CANYON and Cherry
tO oty no oil iS
a crescent shape, with its northern horn
touching the mouth of rOugh-l0oking CAN
yon that must bring quite large creek into
1t, from the amount Of water discharged at
its outlet Il is said to be very deep. and to
have trout in it equal 10 those caught in
Lake Tahoe.
There are several acres of level land on
the west side, as you approach the lake,
covered with green grass until the
autumn frosts come, with little groves
of ASH, wild rose bushes, large ferns,
goldenrod, honeysuckIe and wild sun
Eleanor is an easy day and quarter ride
the way occasionally passing through glades
and little mountain meadows
COVERED WITH FRESH vERDURE
And bOrdrred with many varieties Of ever
greens aud flowers. NTneCe is some Zig-zag
descent ana ascent in getting down TO the
streams and up from them, but one gets
"
then comes to a halt to look longer at some
opening the mountain seems to have left to
let lively creek or river through, or 10
wonder how his trail is to get around
the huge rocks that appear to shut
off further progress. But the way is found,
and at the crossings, generally between two
canyons, the streams are quiet, not looking
as II they had been rushing and foaming
over and around great powders but a short
distance above, and will be at 1t again little
way below. On crossing some Of the
ridges the altitude is from 1000 to 2000
feet higher than the CQiayeTas Big Trees
and a good look a; the summit Of the
SerraS is had, also overlooking the lower
mountains, as far as the eye can reach, away
down on the San Joaquin plains. The
route bring generally clear of undergrOwt b,
the scenery Is varied and interesting at all
times From Lake Eleanor to Hatcha-
batchie Valley three hours ride the trail
passes over prominent spur, from which
complete view is had of the lake and bald
mountains Of granite reaching from its
head well toward the summit. This view
alone Is worth n days ride. But another
more charming scene arises when the bluff
is reached IN sight Of Hatchahatchie, the
queen of mountain valleys, catching the
water from falls only surpassed by O.
semitic in distance Of unbroken fall, but of
greater volume, with the same walls on
either side, where it DarrOwS up and again
opens out, making another but smaller
valley.
At the narrow point rock rises over 5000
feet above the main Tuolumne River, that
runs mtekiy through the valley, after roar
ing down the Great Canyon. Where the
river leaves the valley it enters a remark
able, narrow and perpendicular canyon that
Is a picture IN Itself, as seen from the noun
tain side. The soil is rich and groves Of
large oaks grow around the margin of the
valley, NTH willows along the river banks.
The valley river and
SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS
Have just enough rocks, treas and water
falls to give graceful aud fascinating ap-
pearance to everything in sight, making one
wonder why more is not known of Hatcha-
hatchie. The discOverer, Joseph Screech,
says il takes its name from a wild rice that
grows here about three feet high, and is used
by the Indians for food. John Muir has an
article i'll the Century OF September, 1890,
which takes in Ha:chahatchie describing it
in his Easy. interesting style.
From the valley to Yosemite Hotel, as
travelled, is thirty-eight miles, the route
going several miles westward TO double
broken mountains.
The return from Hatchahatchie to Gala
veTas Grove. although on the same trail most
of the way, lost nothing in pleasure as the
direction being reversed every turn brought
something new TO the eye. Deer were often
seen on the way, sometimes four or five to-
gether, exhibiting more signs Of curiosity
than fear. All the streams have trout
larger, more numerous. aud taking the "fy'
quicker than lower down, as they have not
yet been disturbed by the rod and line.
The most Of the way was along tile upper
edge OF the ''sugar-pine belt" interpreted
with different kinds of fir and spruce, which
fill the morning air with their delightful
aroma. One can have his choice by wagon
road or trail TO 60 from the Calayeras Grove
to Lake Tahoe. This route is not so broken
as toward Yosemite, but has many attrac-
lions, following as it does part of the way
along the summit Of the Sierras. On these
rides you get the genuine mountain air,
moved at midday by gentle breeze neither
cold nor warm, but just at that temperature
when one wishes all his friends were with
him.
Horseback riding on a mountain trail gives
an easy exer iSe to every part of the body
without being tirrsOme, and one cannot feel
more safe and free than when he has four
good legs under him guided by the instinct
OF mountain horse.
Nearly every tourist takes the shortest
route from the valleys tn Yosemite, the Cal
aYeras big trees or Lake Tahoe, and returns
the same way. He gets value received in
seeing either place, but how much more
would be see of the magnificent Sierras of
Swift 'rland, hide her Alps from view and
take Lake Geneva into our Tahoe should he
follow the lines here indicated.
Let the tourist try it leisnrely, and If he
is sportsman, angler, lover of nature in
its quiet or most rugged form, or seeking
health and Punishment of his aches and
pains, he cannot fail to be pleased. F. W.
HeJndoa, Nay 20, 1891