Morning journal and courier., 1891-04-01

surah or taffeta silk matching the color of the dress. These are closely gored and finished with a rrche or triple -pinked frills that are made very narrow and placed at the extreme edge of the hem.
 Jeweled buttons of high price are i'm ported this season to be used on the cor sages that are garnitured with the in creasingly popular gem-set dress trim mings. These jeweled passementeries are used with artistic moderation on expensive evening toilets of tulle, India gauge, silk crape, crepe de Chine and similar textiles. Translucent and exceedingly brilliant iri- descent beads, which appear in all the colors and effects of gems, are also wrought in intricate and beautiful pat terms, in the form of stripes and sprays, on foundations of silk net, and these are arranged to form fichu-folds, berthas and Recamier draperies on bodices and com pose sleeves entire. Similar embroideries in pearl and opal are on bridal gowns of Bengaline, faille, yelled with crepe lisse, crepe de Chine, Sicilienne and mousseline de soie.
 Pale willow green with gold or with sil- yer (the lint of that seen on. the reverse side of the silver-maple leaf appears in combination on some exceptionally bean- tiful dresses of Pompadour brocade A glint of the softest, most delicate mauve shows in the changeable background. In the creation of very special and elegant toilets for next season, French ateliers are making great use of certain rare tints of mauve. For more general uses are any number Of tones indifferently so called as, for instance, hyaeinth. pansy, dahlia. rhododendron, and even the fruity magen- ta tints incOnsequently appear in the same list. The most delicate tints in mauve are found in the brocades alluded to above, the crepes de Chine, India cashmeres, and upon some of the wonderfully beautiful flower devices to be found this season among stamped silk muslins and real French challies.
 Toques and capotes of Fummer textiles are made fiat and slender in effect with dented or fish-wife points in front. The wire frames are covered with 6 soft roll of pale-tinted velvet or silk, and the love Hest of French flowers are added, both front and back. One model of palest ca nary chiffon has roll of canary velvet at the edge, and in the indented front nestles a cluster of pale-yellow rose-buds and fo- liage. A few of the blossoms and leaves are set upon the edge of the toque front and back, and on each cluster rests but. terfiy made of the finest black thread lace. The hat is made on gold wire foundation, and its price is eighteen dol lars.
 Corded silk capes matching handsome costumes are among the list of stylish wraps for tall women. Some are al round, others have shirring at the back with belt inside to hold the folds ir shape. The tiaring collar, modified ir height, is still n part of such wraps | Cloth capes in gray Suede, or brown
 have dark velvet points as trimming, or | are finished with a pointed yoke richly trimmed. Some of Pingat's new spring mantles are like sleeveless jackets, with pointed front, and rounded cape which covers the sides and arms. Among the el egancies on new mantelettes are those oi Pompadour satin brocade in pale lovely color-lendings, made in Louis XIV. style
 with white or beige silk vests covered
 with gold or copper embroidery. Cream white cloth capes and coats of silver | white cloth will be in high vogue all sum l mer. Many are trimmed with silver pas sementerie, others are richly braided. 4 stylish garment sent over as a gem of tast, is made of black Chantilly lace Thii forms the gathered cape part. Its onl! solid portion is the yoke with Medicin
 collar made of velvet in apple green, an,
 thickly covered with a glittering net-worI
 of cut jet beads in floral designs