Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1891-02-01
MOURNING STYLES.
CHANGES IN THE cEAsELEss MUTA-
TONS or FASHION
Tn. crsdat,ors Nicely Marked--Psris Eve
ming Gowns-Rsccption Dress In
Mauvc.
,c.-...,ona.oce Of the Richmond pisDatsn.I


Nrw YORK, January si.-"1n the MIDST
of life ye are in death" IL Is an uniof-
t,nate necessity that occasionally en-
oo,pters us~-the necessity OF putting on
,nonrnino. And mourning, like every
other variety of attire. is subject 10 q
Greater or less degree of change in the
ceaseless mutations OF fashion. Lately IL
has become customary to put what may Dc
called more style into mourning wear than
was formerly the case. In other words,
mourning costume has become more
dressy. $3.50 xo~-
Black Henrietta cloth has become very
g9ress 10 made mite plainly, following the
lines of the established mode; that ~,
with the close undraped skirt and tight,
citing abort basque. The trimming used
is black MORE franchise. Surpiice fevers OF
the latter are placed upon the 1ront OF the
basque, and a band of the same about the
bottom of the skirt.
OF THE DULL VARIETY.
Jet is used but sparingly, and u must De
of the dull variety. Grape sometimes does
not appear upon the costume proper, pc
inc confined TO the veil, but this Is not
rule. many mourning gowns exhibiting
trimmings of Grape instead OF the more,
One does not confine the mourning sole
" to the gown, but the smallest accesso-
ries are made to conform. The hanoke1-
chief Exhibits a very deep border. and they
are showing white hsndkerchiefs OF hne
cambria edged with black lace.
UNDERWEAR, TOO.
Even mourning underwear has been
adopted, the garments being eitner alto-
gether of black silk, or If camorlc De pre-
ferred the white material Is trimmed Win
hlact lace. The gradations of mourning
ore nicelv marked. For second mourning" "
or "half mourning" the dress materials
are black and white or more commonly
lavender and white, and to accompany the
costume the accessories are appropriate
even to the stockings, these being striped
in the two colors.
ABALL COSTUME.
To change the subject abruptly (and
very completely l must describe. one or
two specimens from recent consignment
of Paris evening gowns on view here. Inc
first Is a ball costume for q young ladV.
II is in maize chiffon. The. V bodice
shows a border of black ostrich-teather
trimming, arranged so as to give somewhat
the effect of boa, being brought over the
right shoulder diagonally across the front
10 the left hip, whence the end falls loose.
The skirt is draped with black gulpure,
showing beneath an edging OF black
feather trimming. On the shoulders are
knots of black and yellow ribbons, con-
fninp loose falls of black lace. which COM
nose the only sleeves. The bodice laces
with silken cord up the back, style OF
fastening that occasionally takes the place
of the invisible line of hooks-and-eyes we
have lately joined our waists with.
A MATRoNLY COSTUME.
rich and elegant costume befitting O
more matronly form is in dark hellotrope
satin and trimmed with white angora fui
and pearl passementeFie.
For receptions is q dress in mauve velvet
| with Zouave jacket which opens upon
walstcoat of chamoise, in the natural color,
upon which embroidery IN hellotrope ano
tan appears:
The popular shoulder-cape has now been
adopted for evening wear, appearingln the
| liphter-colored pushes with trimming. OF
| f1r. These capes show the Understanding
collar a Ia Medici. but are quite short
not coming below tho elbows. OI
| a few recent examples rich passementerit
| took the place of the fur, and feather
trimming is frequent.
LACK OF NOVELTY.
There is agpainful lack of novelty about
the fashionable streets dress. Except fol
the variation in colors the gowns that fol
| low one another up and down the Ladies
| Mile nowadays have identically similar
| features. And, even as to color, that seems
TO range from tan to dark brown IN th'
main. an occasional dark green or blue
breaking the monotony. However, some
| INNOVATIONS are limited for early spring
| The fourredu skirt, indeed, has taken 90
strong hold upon popular favor that 1T II
| doubtful whether the gowns OF the coming
season will offer any change In this dlrec
| tion. II is upon the basque that yhe IN
renuity of the n,odiStes will be exerted, anC
we NAV expect that the present plain wals
will be much elaborated. Whether w
have not now reached perfection IN walk
ing dress is a question restless fashion
makers have not paused TO examine.
VARIOUS FASHION NOTES.
The muff has contracted Its dimension
with the advancing season and Is nov
rather insignificant.
The addition of boa to the fashionabl,
plain REFER makes most effective out-of
door costume.
Black stockings have come to stay. Nov
that the makers have removed the un
pleasant property of "crocking," whlcl
they exhibited at first, they have been uni
yersally adopted and are worn for ever,
occasion at all hours Of the day and night
We do not hear so much lately OF tn
bifurcated riding.habit, but the author
ties say i is steadily gaining ground.
Bead passementeries and braid trim
mings-especially metal braids-are exten
sively used for millinery purposes.
Although street attire has become SO dul
and uniform, one puts on the very warm
est. most pronounced colors fol. HON
wear, and indeed the prevailing in-doo
gown is of bright, red cashmere.
The street glove is heavily stitched upo
the back in eelf-color.