davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

animal. both physically and mentally.
The girl who takes q ten-mile spin In
the sun every FUR day doesn't have time for
morbid. malarial dreams OF the wortbiessness
OF life. She doesn't fancy she is misunderstood
and solitary. She doesn't let hor mind wobble
and careen to the one side or the other any
more than she does her machine for she
knows 1t means disaster. She is direct. reso-
lute, plucky. we'll balanced. and sensible and
these are the qualities most essential to wo-
mans success In life. whether life means TO
her darnirg babies stockings or lecturing on
political economy.
The first evidence OF the character develop
mont due to the exercise will DO q realizing
sense OF the absurdity OF trying to accomplish
anything worthily and well in conventional
attire It will only require two or three spills
and the ruin Of two or three gowns to rid the
rider OF tho dress thralldom and set her tc
thinking along new line, on tho subject Of
attire. Sho will mako many mistakes
at FIRST. but rarely does she fail to
hit upon something rational and COM
Portable as the result Of heE thought Once
adornment to the new idea that dress is do
form Is esta6lishsa The irst thing the woman " az
vii VIII ss the DAINTY guEe
uninItiated It would seem that fever there was
a time when principle demanded, that you
prettiest patterned lace in your lingerie It
SSR %s sqs sp Fhs ss s e T sRe
superatundant frills looks like an upset laun-
tSe third lesson eonvnces you that tho
only bicycle costume must be OF the same color
clear through to the cutice. Yen Yen viii save n,,
Hrtv 4 10 tbe taiIer 9r rdnr
cloth psir Of eii.httIns knee breeshe.. but
ssms material mat. a. your soSs1n Beneath
%ePs S wss vss n e' the
Heavy hose Of wool or silk must be worn over
me hose and BY 81 ,bSg srap with
buttons on. tho stockings. Won obviate the
necessity OF garters or supporters, and insure
sEE Except in tie coolest weather no petticoat
will be needed. and when worn It must be Of
Ssded ~ sE camsy
sirable or picturesque on the outside. Over
the Tie upper part Of the body a Knitted Jersey.
which may be more or loss heavy according to
There is great disagreement AMONG the OK:
be admitted that the corset Is better abolished.
out, Il st mtn &c dlns nsS sen GU! en,rsy
| away on the hips. with a low bust. not too
CLOSELY boned; and. above all. Worn loosely.
gown. which is Of habit cloth. Just long enough
| to. clear the, ground. just full enough to
| which ndapts itself we'll to this costume. The
| gown may be OF blue or hunters green, or
| tan. and the yoke OF bright crimson or scarlet.
| The Tam @ Shanter Is OF scarlet, too, and can
| be tilted down over the eyes to form some
| must DO loose. particularly about the arm
| holes and sleeves. The shoes must be laced.
| loose in ut, and have low. fiat heels.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
AMERICA LEADS IN THIS.
her Designs and Results In Artistic Furni.
turc Rent the World.

1t may interest housewives to know that 1t
is not tho elegant thing to speak OF II piece of
furniture as imported. or coming from the
other side, as one speaks proudly OF u gown or
bonnet. People OF means are buying the FUR
niture made from American designs In their
own country at lust three times tho expense
OF the imported article. American designs are
acknowledged the most artistic OF the
period. and yet there Is neither an Ameri-
can school OF design for this particular
branch or any marked characteristics
by which It is distinguished. The American
designer originates his idea. formulates
rough little outline OF it, hands 1t over to his
French and German drauGhsmen. who work
it out with the patient and painstaking skill
which the designer Is in too much OF q hurry
to spend his precious time over. This design
is executed. and when completed Is sold to the
oonnoisseur who appreciates tho difference In
the durability and beauty OF the home prod
0ct, and Willingly pays the, advanced price
o9s o. fns hs aher dsy ponea out two
small inlaid tables standing together in his
office, each equally artistic, bnt the one s. OF o.
iast ioisveE the French one will check L Il
e erss %0nfsS es"I " and s set We
may tell this to one hundred CUSTOMERS and
Sn tns e1s Tnat sa one Of cu
Ties under which the development Of American
art s aaxs no whe could S s
the professors and instructors in these schools
uf American ar some one suggested that /
should, tut am not capable OF I'LL
Ing tie Dipr, and wouldn't accept II
il Sers .N'npeisn,. have studied y,
eighteen yee.A md don't know anything
about 4 W; II. American !, designssr h nts
soit ones. " failures, not successes, BY
i,ut going 10 give the result Of his life struggle
Tor S' t fH sttpefid allowed to teachers Of any:
thing. He cancels his debt to tho world by
giving those that follow him the results Of MS
can style IL like the American people. cosmo-
politah-its Individuality has not crystal.
thes he; other Tier SIDE. There are q many ,sishts:
There arc fifty men OF authority In this
branch Of ine art. Iione OF tho MY announces
his views as the right one nll the, other forty:
nine Rise UP and dispute him. and each one Of
e equally a rghai rs NJ seea%%se we
studying the best ths world mas knoMa, In
American ant. But we arc too young !. people
hsss dssss Ssa g gSs SS
We must have years, NOT oply 70 perfect opr
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
ORNAMENTS AND JETELs.
Fashions Decree to When They Shall Re
Worn-The stylish Gem.

Jewels nre greatly tho rage now, but their
dccadence for street wear Is in inverse ratio to
their popularity for house adornment In tho
old days lady was distinguished. no matter
how plain her costume. by the magniflcence OF
the diamonds she wore in her walks abroad.
Now the woman who is seen wearing Jewels
before 4 o'clock in the afternoon ia classified
as either not up to tho mode. or else is pro-
nounced vulgar Still there is II nice dstinc-
ton in the wearing Of street Jewels. The
pins and clnsps that really have a rois0n
tretre. and arc not ornaments only. are still
considered in good taste. The jewelled pin
that fastcns the bonnet in place or secures tho
ties. the hairpin that is worn in the hair to
support the bonnet the single glowing stone
that secures the dress collar. all these are con-
sidcrcd rs quite appropriate for street weac.
However, the woman who has her own private
safe for the keeping OF hor collection of jewels
IL quito as frequently seen unadorned by any
SNOWY trinket. however useful. unless she is
riding In her carriage. For shopping, walking.
or morning visits. Jewels and silk nttire are
considered quite as bad form as mans dress
suit worn before 6 o'clock. For afternoon
calls and receptions few Jewels appear. and
these arc worn only by tho women who drive.
This fashion IL direct English importation.
and Is perhaps one OF the most sensible yet
Pearls are to be worn this season. They are
expensive Injuries II perfect. and. as they are
the first jewels worn by young girls. French
mammas and grandmRnlmas have custom OF
giving single pearl to little girl on each Of her
ay saSn as Gsys si is sS 81
It's diamond clasp, towhicb each Of the parents
beautiful Italian Queen irom whom this
custom was derived receives on every birth
day. not y single pearl, but O. string containing
one pearl Tor each year of her He. These
pearl strings cover now. when all are worn.
the entire front q her bodice and hang tar be-
low her waist The rs; custom 1; sets premig,n,
could have her will, doubtless she would gladly
have the pearl chains diminish IN length. and
perhaps do without them altogether
The OPAL promises TO 10 another favorite
ment rings and the heart. shaped iocEets SO
much fancied for betrsthal souvenirs. Small
diamonds invariably form the. setting Of the
I'M hre and exquisite tinsinss better than the
Small diamonds will be much used again
this winter In the hearts. lovers knots and
bow knots, iieur de lis and other designs
copied from the old French bits OF jewelry.
Marauise rings are beginning Il, wans. In pop
ularity though they ore still we'll sold In the
FASHIONED G round cluster Hugs Hugs in snail and
Hair orpaments become more elaborate aud
snowy Tho pins OF cut work approach the
stze and Importance Qf tho. old back combs.
The !ayorite design is the bow knot and double
bow knot. tied Of gold ribbon and beautifully
chased Ena@elled powess encrusted along
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
HE HoM.4y IN THE RESTAURANT
How She Ia Treated In Places Where Her
Presence ip Not Desired.

TreBencS - NOs ASoDstcos
They were three very young and very swag-
ger girls. evidently not long out Of school. They
sat around one OF the tables in Delmonico's
with an elderly. portly old party. who impress
ed you as man who had been man OF the
world long time. and was probably an uncle
OF one OF the girls. judging by the way in which
the sweet creatures ordered the lunch. Az
soon as they were seated they noticed gor-
geously costumed woman sitting at table
near them. eating bread and butter and drink
ing water All tho time they were puzzlinG
and chatterinE over tho bill OF faro
the woman ate the bread and drank
the water and looked boldly about the
room. When the 1nomentous question had
been settled and they were waiting for their
order. a waiter came to the woman. and. with
very profuse apologies. brought her another
plate OF bread and some more water. took her
order for lunch. and went away, long time
after that. in fact when the girls had arrived
at the three kinds Of salad they had ordered.
another waiter came to the woman with more
profuse apologies. another plate OF broad and.
filling ,her glass again. took her order and
hurried away.
three girls to finish o luncheon when an
aInlable old darling tells them to order Just
ay tSs na i
eluded she had enough bread and butter and
left the place with some real color flushing
II shouldn't think they'd 1T q woman h stay
and butter" said all the girls together when
she left, but the elderly club man Just eoughed
"IIi ask brother Tom when get home
the prettiest girl of oil said. And this is what
Tom said:
That is the old trick Of tho restaurant
keepers TO rid themselves Of undesirable wo-
restaurant and one Of those notorious women
comes in. II the manager attemnts to PVT her
ths place and toll ~ the boys it i no PLACE e
want to 90 into a place where such wo-
men are allowed as reGuIar, Gnstomers:
so what does tho man do? He sends
waiter to take the womnn's order.
and he gives her the bread and butter and dis
appears. After n long time she asks another
waiter to take her order. and with many apol-
ogics he takes It. begins all oyer again. brings
the bread and butter. and disappears. Per-
haps she calls W tn. head waiter, but any N.Y. WAY
herself scarce without any scene or disturb;
Rnce. 1t is great thing to keep restaurant.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

The daintiest at homo dress VI the season Is
OF pale gray crepon with q festooed flounce Of
whito Mechlin lace nj out the bottom. gathered
to q beading run With blue velvet ribbons Tho
long coat bodice has. broad hounce OF lace at
the finish of the mech which falls In deep epan-
let's on the shoulder. and tapers to the edge
OF the coat. Beneath this coat Is q folded sur
plico.like bodice N pale blue velvet ending in
q long sash ut one side Of the front. Thesash is
lined with blue satin and brondens toward the
ends to abont six INCHES In width. Let 1t not be
understood that this delicate creation is
Margaret style 81 girl the effect would ,be
insipid and tame. Remember. too. TINT be-
cause It is designed ior the brunette COM
pIexion the gray mnst . be OF the falntest. the
color and most delIcatN mesh. Tie effect is
what the schoolgirls cait delicious.
Combinations OF fur with white lace are
peculiar to this seastol for gowna. and even
decorate outside coats to rich toilets. Astrak-
han. seal. or Persian lamb are found on the
gown with guipure lasre or Irish point. and fur
tails OF mink or salmon border tle collar. from
which lace jabOt falls Hats to wear with
these gowns have lnce wings above their fur
bands or q veil OF white applique lace falling
from their fur rims.
Have You seen the "Hclyett belt2 1t Is a
London importation and consists OF pointed
band OF silk or velvet studded with iet or prec-
ious stones. and edged with. tho same decora-
tlon. From Its lower edge nils deep fringe
Of the same stones. grnduatoi In size. and fin-
ished et tho end OF each strand with long,
pointed tag.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
TIE FASHIONABLE NECK.
II Must be Long and Slender and Smooth-
How to Dress II.

II Must BIO Long and slender ana Smooth
How to Dress II.
Odd. isn't Il. that there should be a fin de steele
neck Just as there is mode in bonnets or
style In gowns. Stranger still that the girl
Of the period conforms her physical being to
the conventional idea just IA she cuts her
draperies In the fashion. Now tho fin de steele
neck Mt the end Of the century is not at all
what it was Mt the beginning. when all the
sweet girls wore low-neckcd gowns In tho day
time. Then tho essential qualification OF
beauty was sort OF oushion-like plumpness.
No bones or suggestion OF bones must be
traceable between tho round column OF tho
throat and the tumultuous upheaval OF the
too redundant bosom.
Now tho neck must have subtle expression
not capon plumpness. and this expression
depends, upon-bones. To DO classically
beautiful tho limo OF tho clnvice must DO
visible at the base of tho throat and the hollow
just above this that every Venus has. and TINT
some ono has called rest for Cupid's kisses.
must not be lost In too abundant flesh. though
the flesh be the fairest and most dimpled ever
barred to the eyes OF INC, mnrtnais, ,,o mt email,
modeie ."' Tha rortant thing % dressing
xs sS sss %
have corset either cut entirely away ,yo over
the bust or cut very low. Inc french woman
grasps tho ideal Of the end -of-the-century neck
II tho gown worn oyer it costs less than a
shilling yard. very loose at the ton where 1t
push Il out Of place No matter how low cut
Is the hall gown the effect is delicate and
modest IL the fulness OF the breast is not ap-
parent.
mode. The ideal OF beauty approaches more
growing the notion that tho lovelincss OF n
woman,s mock and shoulders depends nnon
flesh alone. The anatomical structure must
at tho wrist, and must show u faint line or
tfacery at the throat. Too much flesh takes
from the impressivcness OF the modelling and
tho subtlety OF the expression Of the throat and
shuulderS
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
the edees with Jewels nre also much worn in

the edges with Jewels are also much worn in
halrptns, 100,
,dold 6llets are heavier. and moro richly
year. They are broader In the centre and de-
cidetlly suggestive OF coronets. -, A.
Diamond tlares are OF all varieties. from tne
single star or group OF stars to the exact copy
Of the dihdems belonging to the imperial
families OF Europe Two tiaras nre w9rn H. one ne
the head. as forming the support Of the
coifure
A very pretty simple little hair ornament V
fine gold wires strung with diam9nds. 80 nne
are these wires as to he practically invislpie
and the Jewels seem TO be veritatie dewdrops
entahgled in the airy feathers.
In. entirely new designs this season is not
prolific. being devoted rather TO tho periecting
and bringing out In new and more exQusMo
forme the bow knots, hearts, end heugR his
introduced last season. Old French ds Rns
still dominate the REVEALS and reproductions
from earlier periods as well as the novelties Of
the DIV
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

ness, the sweeping skirt docs prevail nnd
grows longer and more extended at its borders
as the season advances. more capablc OF gath
erinR M the dangerous microbe and deposit
ing the dust and refuse upon unsuspecting
ankles and feet:
That elegance OF material rather than elnb-
ornteness Of decoration are involved In the
bcst expressions OF the mode;
That sleeves are made OF tho same material
rs the drcss. while the bodice is as unlike the
gown ns human invention can make It;
That the French dross invariably suggests
two possibilities. The FIRST ia that the woman
who wears i Gdn haze money to set
sed the two kinds ut widely separated
Intervals or that she had too much money to
buy the gown all 81 one kind. md that every
one might appreciate the fact used the two
materials most unlike each other In its combi-
That fashionable dressing approaches more
aud more tho realm OF fine nrtB and that won on
Of moderate incomes might ns well give up the
yexatiouS struggle, cease trying to be beauti-
full. and Just be good.
Among the oddities IN bonnet architecture
is rather large capote made OF soft felt and
velvet with Jet ornament In the shape OF n
swans neck In front and a. Prince OF Wales
q Dutch sleigh. On the head OF the right
woman It is Cleopntras helmet Its capa..
hllities FOR !sublimity or absurdity are about
even. SO let the woman without the beauty OF
One OF tho whims Of the economical woman
this year is an abundance of the dainty little
guimpcs and plnstrons of Grippe or chiffon
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

needlework under the chin. All tho dainty
arrangements are copied from old-time
courtiers' Dress when gentlemen INDUCED
In rufiies and frills, and adjusted them
with the grace and skill woman has not i'm
proved on through all tho centuries. Mechlin
lace seems one Of the newest and most popular
materials for the cravat-like ornaments some
times seen with street gowns The gown has
usually in such cases q low-cut vest
bust from o narrow opening In the dress. pre-
ciaeiv "a n In now worn by the elderly gentle.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
THE BICYCLE GIRL

fybc n an Intercsting Creatare-Sone or
Good Fotnts.
One ofthe rarcst, raciest products ofthe wave
OF modern progress is the bicycle girl She sits
her stecl horse precisely ms her brother sits
his, and establishes thereby the loneed-for
equality Of the sexes which tho womcn's clubs
have argued themselves black In the face to
bring about. but In vain. She wedrs more by.
Qicnic garb than the dress reiormers have
ever dreamed OF in their most inspired
moments She could give university
graduate points on determination and
equilibrium OF mentality. She " healthy
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

woven in tho embroidery. Clusters Of yioleta.
sprays Of laburnum and wlsteria. and even
rnsebuds nre fastened TO the thin gauaes
amopg Embroidered leaves md stems.
The PROTEST novelties. though. IRE white
or gray birds with real feathers posting amid
from Ont flower petals Of sllkeh stitches.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

for sale In the shops.
Your platncst street
coat Is transformed to
luncheon elegance by
tho insertion Of one OF
these little guy. frilled
plasti,ons Of crimson.
crepe. or yellow chiffon
Your old black silk
will take on all the
needed dinner graces
with a pale blue or pink
chiffon guimpe. with It's
full-plaited bit Of pretty
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
OLD LACHS.
They Are Valued sud Worn Before Aay
Modern Produetion.

In laees all tho old patterns and varieties are
revived. Heirlooms. yellow with age. are val
ued above any modern production. however
beautiful. From these ancient laces most
OF tho new designs are appropriated or
adapted. but among the novelties peculiar to
tho season. however. are Chantlly laces. with
peacocks. pagodas, Cupids In swings. bow
knots. and even the Effani Prod igue presented
to the public In Its meshes.
Cupid with his bow and arrows also figures ex-
tensivey In this season = patterns; birds fly and
grasshoppers skip through It's web. Cobwebs
arc a favorite pattern IN black guipure. and
Chiffon IN made In the lace machines as stripes
alternating with lace ineerion. in Yhich
and gauzes are heavily embroidered with Moral
patterns Ia relief.
heathors are iGtt%dased into t b patterns
pattern. Artlfeial nowerA are also inter-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

them the floor. The mere presence OF ladies'
about the desk debars gIests from epioying
these privileges; They do not like the re.
"The introduction OF lady cashiers will not
be general. It Is still confined to two estab-
lishmenta, the Palmer Of Chicago ahd. the
Plankington OF Milwaukee,. Good daySAnd
say, don't ever use your influence for lady
woman's rights movement or to the salvation
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

men in the School for
Scandal" and other
old-fashioned plays.
Chiffon Is the material
most used. but the in
notwithstanding Eauze
Is q delusion and a
snare. as fraii as 1t is
fair. and usually gets
into q hopeless crumple
with second wearing.
Mousseline de sole.
crepe du chine. China
silE. and all kinds Of
lace are no moro ex-
pensive and quite as
efYectiye hesidee lasting
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15
~

an entire season. For theatre wear The soft
gray plastrons are particularly useful. md the
house dress Is varied and made attrac tive. in
deed. when freshened by their bright graceful
feature in winter Of disconraging elegance
and expensiveness In dress.
Pockets are Injuries undreamsed Of in the
economy OF the sheath skirt. and yet. since
noses have not gone out OF fashion. handker-
chiefs seem quite as essential to elegant COM
fort as formerly. for street wear small
receptacle hos been devised on the plan OF the
Marguerite pocket. which is Of the same ma
terial as the dress. It is nat at the back where
It hangs against the dress and full on the outer
side. and Is trtmmed 70 correspond with the
dress decoration, Suspended from the waist
Gus little articles .wherewith. woman en-
cumbers herself French ladies have a
fad for drawing the handkerchief through
the belt. in which case tho mouchor must ne
OF extreme elegance and have the name OF Its
owner written in diamonds across one corner.
One name su61ces for many handierchiefs. as
It Is kind Of plaque fixed on the linen by o
peculiar little spring easy OF adjustment.
Another fashion revival is that Of the long
figured face veil. which falls over the face to
the knee. It Is Of Chantilly or any fine French
lace. and is two yards long and nearly q yard
wide. 1t Is draped around the crown OF q poke
bonnet, covers the face, and hangs straight to
the knee for elegant afternoon Wear. just az It
was worn In the days when the Lady Rose rode
her white palfrey and wrought her sampler
with fne stitches.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-15

dozen slaves to anticipate their Wishes do the
cooking and serving Of the fo2d according to
the school is plain but attractive seal.brown
gown aud black mortar board students cop.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1891-05-21
KANSAS RAILROADS.

Parsons Journal: The new engines
and chair cars of the NJ, K & L. are
now in service. With new engines,
new cars, new. tracks and new car shops
at Parsons, the Katy" will be the best
equipped road 10 the west.
The Missouri Pacific has consolidated
lite Kansas lines and branches under the
name of the Kansas & Colorado Pncifio
railway It is under the control of the
Missouri Pacific company. and the lines
are consolidated for the convenience OF
management.
Hutehinson.-The officials and princi-
pal stockholders Of the Hutchinson &
Southern held their annual meeting
here. The new board of directors con-
sists of Chas. H Davis, Alexander Clark,
George Hubbell, Herman Upper,
George K Dpckworth. C. B. Matthews,
of Cincinnati; H A. Christy, Z E. Wise,
of Chicago; Charles Collins, A P. Byers
Of Hutchinson. and S. A Durraugh of
Anthony. The officers elected are as
follows: President. II A Christy; vice.
president. Geo. K Duckworth; secre-
tary, E E Wise; general manager, r.
n Archer; auditor, Herman Upper;
traffic manager. Chas. Collins; superin-
tendent. o. 2. Byers; assistant treasurer,
VIM E Burns; general counsel, c. B.
Matthew'S The question Of extending
the line to Galveston. Tex, was dis
cussed, and the proposition was faFora-
bly, considered Active operations vii
be began at an carry date.