Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-02-15
FANClES FOR The FAIR,

Dainty, Comfortable and Healthy Garments
Next the ~Skin-Cheese Cloth for Night
Dresses-How to VTeara CONSIDERATIONS
for the Children.
There was never a time in the history of
fashion when women devoted so mucn atten-
tion TO the make and quality of Sheir most
intimate undergarmentS, writes the Countess
Annie de Montaign, TO THE DISPATCH.
Our grandmothers believed that The acme
of elegance had been attained wher they
clothed themselves in fine handmade linen,
with cambri ruf1e s edged with Valenciennes
lace. There were fewer shams in those days,
and the cheap machine-made garments
which are made to sell were quite unknown.
NOWADAYS a woman who wants to be swell
looks with supreme contempt on linen or
muslin underwear, ornamenteG with stiff
embroidery. La silk attire must she be
clad from top to toe, and that trimmed with
pillows OF lace and yards of dainty feather
stitching. To be chic, she dons undercloth-
ing which is either in harmony or matches
the color OF her gown. Black silk under
garments are somewhat passe' fastIdlous
women being unable to Danish the prejudice
against black coming in contact with the
skin. 1t is, however. much affected by a
certain class of people who are always strain
ing after effect and aiming to do something
bizarre. 1t cannot be denied that the soft
dead black of the fabric, and its trimming
If chantilly lace is striking in juxtaposition
with the flesh, imparting to it the dazzling
purity of Cararra marble. Black under
wear, however, is only pardonabIe en- voy-
age, as it necessItates fewer changes and is
extremely convenient.
The most artistic thing is to choose silk
underwear as nearly assimilating to the
pink OF the flesh as practicable, thus avoid
ing all patchiness of effect. Everything
worn beneath the dress should be as CON-
pact as possible, the under garments fitting
the figure like a glove; this can be managed
by gOring the material IN such a manner
that it follows the contour Of the figure and
Is vet easy and comfortable.
The babv-waist chemise is one Of the
d~aintiest OF garments, the ulIness being 50
slight as to be in no wise detrimental even
10 a figure inclined to embonpoint; the waist
is slightly full and merely provided with
shoulder straps, the bodice being trimmed
with narrow lace, or in some in
stances, a deep fall OF lace; the waist
is defined by a broad Valenciennes in
sorting, alternating Win beading
through which is run baby-ribbon, and
which can be drawn uD to adjust il to the
figure; the skirt reaches to the ankles, and
has several rows OF inserting and a deep
dOunce of lace. This is an exceedingly
dainty garment, and has almost the appear
auce of the short-waisted Recamier gown.
For people of slender means, pongee affords
an excellent substitute for silk, and the ecru
c~oloring is not as u rule unbecoming, soft
ened as it may be with ruties of lace or
colored embroidery. French batiste, which
is sheer and fine, possesses the inestimabie
quality of bearing the crucial test of the
laundry; it is even more desirable ior sum-
mer wear than silk, being extremely thin,
agreeable to the touch, pleasing TO the eye,
and reasonable in cost. Dotted French
nainseok is extremely popular for under
garments, entire sets being made of II. 1t
IS usually scailoped in the same cclor and
tied with small ribbon bows.
Mrs. Connolly, or, as she is in fact, Mrs.
Liddy, is the richest dressmaker in New
York, saws the World. She is 1 tail, strik-
ing looking woman, with brown hair and
ewes, a commanding carriage and the
pleasantest manner possible. She was born
in ireland. but came early to this country,
married aud entered the dressmaking bust
ness. Everything she undertook was singu-
larly successful, and from the first she in
vested her surplus in real estate, so that now
she owns II houses in Long Branch. and in
New York. three in Sixteenth street, one IL
Fourtv-iourth street, where she lives, and
one on Fifth avenue and Thirty-second
street. where she conducts her business. Her
fortune is estimated at from $4,000 to
81. 600, 900. Real estate is her hobby.
The s~o-called Fin de Steele mantle is one
OF the very latest Paris creations. 1t is a
long Henry II. cape in dull red velvet,
streaked with black, and edged with
bands of fur or feather trimming,
one boa end extending down the
front. 1t Tastens invisiblv, and is
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