The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1891-01-03
NAKEMAN'S TRAVELS.

At vRllombrosa.
Special Correspondence fae lntltemor.

sweet old tale the books tell about til
origin Of Vallombrosa. 1t is both swee
and largely true. A man Of arms, abou
to take life in revenge for the murder Q
his own brother, suddenly filed will
divine compassion for his enemy, fol
gave him. This man, Giovanni Gual
berto, to commemorate his salvation
from a dNuning deed, built the monas
terry Of Vallombrosa, nearly 900 year
ago. Milton, in the three lines,
"Thick as autunmnal leaves that strcw III
brooks
High OVearch'd emboWer-'
made yallombross endlessly live in thu
minds OF men. II to the monastery
suppression had been added its materia
destruction, it would sLill forever artist
against it's emerald mountain.side, al
millions, reading Miitop's words, see the
vision he saw in his swift longing Il
again dwell with it's monks, and Year,
as he yearned to know the cool depth
OF its restful shade.
About 1000 feet from Vallombrosa'I
gates is a fountain OF the purest water
leapiug from an everything spring. Or
summers day in zoos Giovanni paused
at this fountain in search ola hermitage
His family was one OF the noblest OF Tus
Csny, from the royal race OF the Carlo
vingians. He was reared TO the fortune
OF arms and received the education OF @
nobleman OF his time. In his early life
his career was reckless and fiery. One
OF his best-loyed friends, Visdomini,
quarrelipg with his idolized brother,
plunged dagger into his heart and
killed him. Giovanni swore vengeance
upon Visdomini, pursuing him for
years. At last one morning OF Good
Friday in 1908, when on his way to
Florence accompanied by his body.
guard, he suddenly met his enemy in a
narrow, rock-bordered forest path. Wis.
domini was OF Giovanni's mercy. The
avenging brother drew his sword and
called upon the murderer to prepare fjr
instant death. Without attempting de.
fense, he fell upon his knees, and with
hands outspread in the form Of cross,
sued for mercy. The mode Of prayer
touched the heart OF Giovanni. Spring
ing from his Rtead he lifted his enemy to
uis feet, iorgave him, and dismissed him
with his blessing.
This much is true; act as heroic and
God like as ever impassioned rhymer
sung. Then perhaps legend comes; ii
legend, still tender, fitting sequel TO glo-
rious selfcouquering. Filled with holy
awe at what he had himself escaped, Clio.
vanni straightway sought the neighbor.
ing monastery OF San Miniato. He pros.
rated himself before crucifix in pray
er. Long and earnestly he gazed upon
the figure Of Christ above him. Lol the
mage bent its head as II with blessing at
his act OF mercy. Thereafter follows
historic truth. Giovanni related the
uiracleto the abbott; adjured bis way
ward career sought 10 enter the brother
hood, but was a time dissuaded on &C.
count OF his noble fathers opposition;
hut finally took the religious VOWS Of the
order in April, 1904. lis piety soon be.
came renowned. On the death OF the
abbott Of San Miniato in zoos, he was
chosen to succeed him, but refused the
office under desire to seek still more
solitary retreat; and it was at the foun.
tain near the peak Of the Pratomagno
mountain, where he had halted in his
solitary wanderings. Near tie spot,
which was then called ACquabella, he
found two PERMITS, Paolo and Guntelmo,
who were living in huts. These Joined
him, and there soon was gathered a lit
tie community OF monks and hermits
Their suaeTiDgs, pfiYations and self.in.
llicted fortunes we're horrible, Robbers
and wild beasts surrounded them, and
both preyed upon them saYagely. Their
homes were at first low huts with q
cross planted before each, and central
place for prayer, while a rude wooden
paling incloeed all. The fame CT their
sanctity became SO great that gifts flowed
in upon them from every hand. EN-
peror Conrad II, the Empress Giacla
and all the court visited them and left
generous presents. Complete osdin.
ances OF the Benedictines were finally
adopted. The original hermitage, Ere
mo-, built in 1043, was repeatedly en-.
larged, until finally completed in lG40 as
the structure stands to-day.
The order Of Vallombrosans, 500 years
after the death Of San Giovanni, which
occurred in 1883, after he had attained
the age OF eighty. eightyears, had become
the richest and most powerful in Italy !
and this one old monastery held their
chief treasure. For this order Ciambue
painted his priceless Madonna; Pereu.
inc his marvellous Assumption. But
Vallombrosa's dark days came in with
the French Revolution. When Napol-
cons council debated whether the Val.
lombrosans should be spared because
they kept the wolves thinn d in the
mountains, it was asked:
"Shall we have monks or wolves 2"
HYolyesl" was the answer.
The monastery and church were de-
spoiled OF their priceless tTessures; the
| immense domains we're seized and the
monks were driven from their CloisleTs
Then, when Napoleon fell and Tuscany
welcomed back the sway OF the Austri
ans, the monks were reinstated, but theil
matchless paintipaG, Wondrous vest
ments, their art treasures and theil
stores OF books and priceless manu-
scripts had been scattered forever. Vic
tor Emanuel, in 1860, at tho Italian dis
establishment, completed their extinc
ton here. The place is now used as al
agricultural school, with corps Of resi-
dent professors; and just above thu
mcDrGtery is an observatory, lone o
the Italian sigma. and weather station
OF to-day. Beautiful as ever is tn
matChless environment. No RUTHLESS
hand can drive from It's cloisteIs tn
forms with which your fancy peoples It
| San Gioyanna ond Milton are still here
Vallombrosas bells still call you and
from a thousand Leagues away, AM
their echoes will never cease their melo
dies while Pratomagno mountain standl
II Won 90 70 Yallombrosa, walk. It !
only seventeen miles 70 the GROW flies
perhaps twenty-five by the entralein
way. Every mile Of 1t gives Ghgngetu
and bswitchiDg views In that mos
dreamiul Of all garden spots Of Italy, th
valley Of tbs Arno. Leaving Florenc
Nv the Porta afis 0rooe, the way lead
along the right bank Of the Arlo. Score
Of white valleys thread II as pearls upo
necklace, and here and there al
erosSeS end quaint old shrines. a
Pontassieve the road DIVORCES from u
Aruo. leading over the hills aud ia
? Vn1lnFf