Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1891-09-17
From Over the Water.
VENICE, Friday, July 18th, 1891.

on the water. and we're perfectly delight
ed with what we've seen of it since COM
ing in at two-thirty We left Verona by
the earlier train because of the disagree
able weather. Those who went out in
the morning came back with wet feet and
skirts. and didn't see the red sarcophagus
supposed 20 be Inhabited bv the crumbling
form Of Romeo's beloved. SO were twice
glad, those of us who stayed under shell
ter. 1t stopped raining before we got to
Venice, and came up from the depot to
our hotel in what do you suppose? Con-
dolas, of course; and what deligtfully
queer things they are! 1t looks very mel
ancholv to see so many of them all black. :.
but you don't feel a bit funereal when
you get inside. The trimmings and cover.
which Is built over the seats in the middle,
look very hearse-like with their black
drapings. There are steam boats, too,
which glide along as smootly as row boats.
But we were eager to try the more roman
tic craft, That's one of the things we
came to Venice tor-to ride in gondola.
We shall have to 60 away with one OF my
dreams unrealized fear. We cannot see
Venice by moonlight unless we get up al
one o'clock in the morning, and thai
seems little foolish. | should be willing
to do it, though, if the others would.
Sunday, July 10Th " esterday was
busy and very happy. After breakfast
we all went for a gondola ride along the
Grand Canal, the principal street of Ven
ice, past all the old palaces. They look
dingy and old now: everything in Venice
impresses you with its faded magniticence.
but you can imagine that they were olfce
very splendid. We passed the house of
the English and American consuls-Des-
demona's house, the Browning residence,
and the he use where Wagner died. We
sailed under the Rialto and went in the
Scalzi, an old CaTmelite church. 1t rich
IN ornament, rich marbles, elaborate cary
ing. and at first it strikes you as very
rich. but as you look longer you feel op-
pressed by the overloaded elegance of it.
| came away feeling that it was tawdry,
empty, meaningless. From there we
took the little steam boat and stopped at
Scuola San Rocco TO see some paintings.
There are great many by Ilntoretto,
among them the crucifiXion - usually
spoken of as his greatest work. 1t is very
realistic-one of the soldiers is reaching
out the sponge fastened on stick. Others
are lifting the cross with one ofthe thieves
on it, and the other is just being fastened
to his cross, which lies upon the ground.
At the foot of Christ's cross is group of
women and disciples, the best part OF the
picture. There are a great many figures,
and it all seems rather confused. Ruskln
praises the picture very highly: says 'in-
deed that it is beyond analysis and above
all praise" Most of us are unable to
agree with Mr.. Ruskin in his opinion OF
Tintoretto. We saw in the Ducal Palace
his other great picture (the largest OIL
pain ting in the world) which Ruskin and
some guide books call the ''Treasure OF
Venice.'' 1t is representation of Para
dise-a great conglomeration of heads
and figures in dark, wierd coloring. Mr..
II. remarked that the artist evidently for
got that order is heavens first law. He
amused us again by another Of his bright
sentences. Prof. 2. had just said that he
couldn't see how any one could go wild
over that picture. Mr.. Hoyt said he
Thought if one were to look at it long
enough be might do just that thing The
palace of the Doges is the most gorgeous
thing that we've seen at all. The large
rooms are ceiled with frescoes and elabor-
ate gliding that is very rich and elegant.
We saw the paintings of Bacchus and
Ariadne and the Rape of Europa. think
Professor MARTIN has photographs oftnem
both. We all wished for more time to
look at the pictures, but the building is
closed at three and we wanted to visit the
dungeons. We actually stood on the
Bridge of Slghs-the dark passage over
the canal from the palace to the PRISON.
We were not allowed 20 go into the prison
because it is used now for that purpose.
When they told us that, as we were stand
ing on the dark bridge, there was realism
enough about iU to make us rather glad
we could not go all the way. There was
the passage for political prisoners from
the Council Chamber OF the Three and
another for criminals leading from the
Council Of Ten; both crossed the bridge
side by side. When we went down into
the castle dungeons! it was horrible!
Twas pitch dark, so that our guide car
ried candles. We crawled into the cell
where one of the Doges was confined be-
fore being put to death for conspiracy.
He slept on the bare stones. Another
dungeon we were in had only hole
about six inches square for light, air and
food to come in; the only opening.
| tell you it must have been solemn
thing to be shut up in one OF those places.
In one corner was theq.aIace where the
guillotine used to stand. There were
three holes in the stone floor for the blood
to run through, and the place in the wall
(now filled in) where the bodies were
thrown out to the gondoliers below.
that's the way they disposed of people in
the time of the Doges.
Then we came into the light once
more. crossed over in gondolas (foui in
each, usually; this time we had large ones
for eight to the church of Santa Maria
della Salute, which is consecrated 10 the
Virgin in memory of her deliveranee of
Venice from the plague. 'Tis much
Al. u. \