The Portland daily press., 1891-03-10


N, me be- rage for embroidery has extended to
qu ay, and In stylish shades of gray, old
S SinE, sage green, heliotrope or dark red
, o4.le Oh tnese are wrought all over In white
MIL Min dots, large and small; others have the
neM merely embroidered at the top, while
of Ssnefs are wrought In open wavy stripes
Vi Wnlte malt way up the skirts.
IN one Oh the model plates there is round
Dodice which laps to q point far on the lief,
Vi me Dust; and is then brought back to the
middle OF the front at the line of the waist BY
smsii pleats. Its Tapped edge is finished with
apand OF velvet ribbon which is tied in a
pow at the extreme point on the left of the
Dust; The neck is slightly low and pointed,
ana mad this simple velvet ribbon band as its
only trimming, while the full embroidered
sm,seVes nave similar finish about the waists
Inc veivet ribbon Is made feature of the
| skiIt trimming as we'll. The English skirt
| with Its wide embroidery from knee to hem
ana dotted all over, is slightly caught up on
tne right ride by velvet chatelaine ribbon
fastened to the waist by bow and ending
IN larger bow low down on the skirt An.
otner model shows bodice with bands OF
insertion across the top In yoke shape, and
pelt widened to form a corslet, with band
Of the Insertion at each edge. There are
sun simpler dresses with belted. surplice
pand used In the neck and as belt, and the
full sleeves entirely of embroidery. Pretty
and simple chambray gowns have belted
Spencer waist. with the only trimming a
narrow band Of embroidery set in turned
over collar and around the armholes. The
full, high sleeves are as long, deep putfs from
armholes to elbow. and are close below, with
band Of embroidery at the waist. The
slightly full straight skirt has a deep hem
with narrow embroidery at its top, The
simplicity of these dresses makes it entirely
possible that they should be made at home
at any time, and hung up to await the season
when they will be needed.
The new ginghams that are being offered
this year are simply beautiful. In nothing
they do resemble the old-time fabric that
was associated with the name, the tiny
checks in two col0rs that form all the
designs. Now they are plaided in gray tar
tan colors in fanciful plaids. after the French
fabrics that have obtained during the year
past; they are in stripes, shaded in one color,
or In two or three different colors, and, latest
| OF all, those in the soft, delicate shades with
| sllken figured stripes running through them.
THESE are among the handsomest fabrics of
the season. and compel admiration from all
who see them. They come in the fashiona-
BILE col0rs, the old pinks and blues, soft
Freuch grays, lavenders and heliotropes,
pale green and sage green, and soft bluffs
bright as decided yellow.
A revival this year Is that of bunting, and
IL comes IN sieaZy open weaving In solid col
ors, or else with narrow silk stripes of con-
trastlng color. AS in other wool fabric, the
very light colored buntings wiz be the most
stylish, such as mushroom striped with pale
blue, green or mauve, and gray bunting with
| line stripes of rose, green or blue There
are, also, many black buntings, with stripes
OF crossbars of colors tan, blue or light green.
An entire novelty is shaded bunting. as
changeable red and gray grounds with grad
nated stripes OF hellotr0pe or green silk.
BOrdered buntings are new, the border be-
Ing several rows of Tom Thumb fringe of
black silk woven straight at the head. but
scalloped on the edge. These buntings are
40 inches wide, in black or tan, with the
fringe along one selvedge to trim the foot of
the skirt
A word about travelling dresses may not
come amiss. For journey of this kind
nothing Is better or more seviceable than mo-
hair. 1t sheds the dust, does not wrinkle,
and seems always fresh and clean. And SO
they are shown again this year, and do not
seem to have lost favor. There is little
change In the fashion Of them, however,
enough to give that pleasant sense of variety
which most women like. The changeable
| mohairs are now shown In preference to the
| plain gray, brown or black alpacas worn
last year. Ecru with blue, gray with pink,
green reyer with tan color, make good
that shed dust and do not cookie. There are
also striped changeable mohairs for making
| dust cloaks aud others with wide band ne ar
| the selvedge in single color, for bordering
| the skirt.
FALSE STANDARDS THE CAUSE OF OVER
WORKED WOMEN.
The keeping of our houses usually devolyes
upon one member of the family, says Mrs.
Lincoln in Good Housekeeping. And it is
safe to say that no problem, among the many
that are now being considered by thought
full women, is so difficult of solution as that
Of how to make the burden of housekeeping
lighter: and this article is written in the
hope that some suggestions therein con-
worked housekeeper.
Doubtless the burden of housekeeping is
heavier than it need be for many women, be.
cause, from their mistaken conception of the
adhere to certain customs and notions and
set up false standard Of excellence. But
what, then, shall we take as our standard of
good housekeeping? Not something which
fosters the ambition to have as large and
well-furnished house as Mrs. A., and
keep. as many servants as Mrs. B; or
the desire to outshine Mrs. C, in the
brilliancy of her silver, the polish on her
linen and the lustre of her co0k-stove; or
e ss attempt Ser to , excel M Mrs in the
and the clearness of her jellies; or the strife
as TO who shall have her washing on the line
at the earliest hour, and her carpets up,
cleansed and down again and housekeeping
all done by the first Of April or the set pur-
pose to do just as much in a given time and
In the same was as our mothers did or to
give us elaborate entertainments and to do
as much church and charitable and society
work as others do. No; however laudable
this ambition or emulation may be- we as
housekeepers should not cherish it as of first
Importance.
No matter how unequal our houses NAV be
In exterior appearance or interior arrange
ment, let every housekeeper strive to forget
difeTences In social position and style Of
furnishings, and remember that as house,
Keepers, in one respect we are all equal. For
there Is one house entrusted to our keeping
which, in the sight of Its builder and owner,
is OF more beauty and value than any made
OF wood and stone, and this is the house
where our real lives are lived.
THE CARE OF BOOKS.
[From Harper's Bazaar.1
Children should early be taught care of a
book. A very little child can understand
that book must not be thrown on the floor
or torn, or bent backward, or maltreated In
the fifty small ways in which children are
permitted to abuse books. Such habits in
children are due quite as much to ignorance
as TO carelessness on the part of the parents.
Ihose who have no interest or affection for
BOOKS themselves are not likely to expect it
from their children. A reverence for books
is part OF the love one bears them, and peo-
pie who have been brought up in an atnaos-
phere OF books, or who spend much time ia
reading or study, will naturally handle a
book respectfully themselves, and insist
that their children do likewise.
There Is much negligence shown In the
matter OF returning borrowed books, and
THIS often by persons OF whom one would ex-
pect better things. For months after book
is read 1t is allowed to lie about the house,
and no especial effort Is made to return it to
Its owner. That book should be returned
as soon as read, just as particularly as one
would return tool after using it, or a gar
ment after wearing 1t, would appear to 90
without saying. Yet 1t is mot always the
case.
And 1t is right to insist that our children
shall be as exact in this respect. That they
shall, after borrowing book, cover 1t neatly
IL 1t be nicely bound one-treat 1t care
fully while In their possession, and return it
promptly when finished. This is not only
simple Justice to the owner, but such teach
ing will go far toward making a child parfic-
ular about the property Of Others
VALISE PUDDING.
One quart Of -four, one tablespoonful of
lard, one tablespoonful of butter, two large
teaspoonfuls baking powder sifted in the
flour, saltspoonful of salt, two cups of
milk, or enough to make the flour into a soft
dough. Roll the crust out about an inch
thick, lay on 1t one quart any kind of fruit.
roll up and steam one hour and half.
COFFEE CAKE.
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