davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call., 1891-08-23

corset on again straightway. She will not
put it on happily but rather with a groan,
and she will give her days and her house to
an cutlery for all women to take off corsets
simultaneously and lend one another coun-
tenance to make the baggy condition toer-
able because general.
Now this is unnecessary fatigue for the
lungs. The right point of attack Is found
at wide remove. The woman who knows
now to stand and sit aud carry her body
properly can look better without corsets
than with them, be she stout or thin. The
woman who has not the primary physical
education hangs over the top of her corset
while she has it on and sinks in q heap the
moment 1t is removed.
Ninety-nine women out of every hundred
are dcnsely Ignorant physically. l have
Travelled the length Of New York City in an
elevated train without seeing one woman
passenger who sat as hdman being should
sit to acquire aud preserve good figure.
have elbowed my way through crowds on
the shopping streets and about the ferries
without running against one woman who
had the faintest notion of how to stand
She who has learned to keep her chest up,
hlpS and abdomen withdrawn and body
poised slightly forward has solved in adj
vance the problem of dress reform; for the
clothes OF the physically wise woman wont
wrinkle or ride up If there's never bone
under them or in seam of them.
But, to return to our mutton, two dresses
Hargors. who is to be married in Septem
Der, illustrate very clearly the demi-train
and the new autumn shapes and designs.
which will be studied by 500 women wishing
to be in the fashion. where one woman has
any thought Of being whoIesomely dressed
and keeping well.
One of these costumes-the artist has illus
trated both of them-is of primrose-colored
French chalie; it is figured with wild roses
of delicate yet vivid pink, their pale vel
low hearts just coinciding in tint with the
gown. The sides are fiat, and down the
front are sash ends of silk finished with lace
and ribbon bows; the basque has fall Of
lace. and long ends OF ribbon finish the
back. The bodice is of prilnrOse-t tinted silk
and opens in a V over the challie; the rib
bons that border it are passed through
pearl buckle and tied in front The fall
sleeves have lace at wrists aud shoulders.
little capote of jet and roses has been
preferred for an accompaniment on the
promenade.
The other costume is of creamy-brown
SILK. striped with darker velvet aud figured
between with Pompadour bouquets 1t is
made with the bell skirt so fashionable and
so ineonvrnient, and has jacket of brown
armGre silk with revers Of creamy lace trim
The morning call., 1891-08-23

mlngs. These toilets have been designed in
New York, though much of the bridal ward
robe is coming from beyond seas.
Mountaineering dresses are among the
most interesting OF those prepared for late
summer, and the one shown in the picture
Is d0ubly worth attention. 1t is very
serviceable model for other use than climb
Ing, and it was lately finished in a New
York atelier after design sketched for her
young daughter by Mrs. Levi p. Morton
The M0rtous have been camping in the Adj
IOndackS, and gray serge striped with navy
blue and yellow was the material of this
Adirondack gown. a sleeveless bodice OF
plain navy blue was tabled over basque
of tie striped fabric. and plain cverskirt
was draped over the striped undergown.
Gold spotted ribbon and a brown wing were
the millinery decorations.
Since have been talking about the novel
things for early autumn now in the dress
makers hands, may give you list of the
orders at present in process of fultilment in
the work-rooms of modiste whose custom
ers are among those fortunate or uu-
happy people dubbed the Understandable :
A pale blue stripe silk; the bodice Is cut in
tabs over an under bodice of white chiffon :;
there is a narrow belt of deep petunia COL
ored velvet, covered with silver tracery !;
the hat of black Leghorn straw is trimmed
with blue and white and has band of petu-
MIA velvet under the brim. The dress of
leaf green china silk shown in the third IL
Illustration lhe Dack is Qrapeu just Del0W the
waist: on the left side it is caught up to the
hip and held with rOsstte, an 'alms bag"
such meaningless names do we give TO
things hanging below; the round waist is
full and has large bow of the material at
the throat; the sleeves are pulled to the
elbow and a straw hat is to be worn, with
a deep fall OF lace about the brim.
More truly autumnal is a dress of tan
colored cloth, brocaded with blue in cres-
cents and stars There is tan vest, with
big gold and silver buttons at the sides and
long gantlet cuffs. The black hat which
completes this arrangements trimmed with
pink roses.
Tan and brown is another new combina-
ton, with pale helotrope, silk sleeves. A
brown hat 10 go with it is trimmed with
heliOtrope chiffore.
Their time is not yet. but in a few weeks
many things will be spread before the woman
whose mind is ON clothes. 20,
The morning call., 1891-08-23

that it needs reclothing. The feminine half
OF the world wore short street-skirts for
years and looked back with scorn upon its
mothers because they wore long ones. The
feminine half of the world said how curious
that people could ever have been so foolish,
and yet the moment that long dresses were
sent to it from Paris, it changed its tune so
abruptly as to make a discord, said how
graceful, and straightwaY put them or.
The feminine half of the worli will be
wearing hoop skirts and sincerely admiriDg
them within two years. Chautauqua has
assumed task of very considerable dmen-
siOns. And there is one thing Chaulauqua
does not take into account at all; there is
only one road to dress reform along which
travel is in any way possible without more
radical changes than any Chautauquan in
her senses deems possible, and that is
through physical culture, of the type that is
intelligent and not sensual or faddish.
The ChautauQuan herself. if she takes off
her corset, will 90 without it just about
eight days. She will look-being usually
middle aged and of matronly proper
tons as she herself would phrase it.
like "a meal bag tied in the middle"
aud through contemplation of the
mealiness of the nOn-esthetc bag she
will be brought to the point of putting the
The morning call., 1891-08-23
AWAY UP IN ALASKA,
Conflict Between a Naval Officer
and United States Marshal,

Latest adyices from Alaska brought down
on the steamship Queen include details Of
rather unusual thing that has lately hap
pened IN the courts there. An Indian chief.
arrested and brought to Sitka in July to be
tried in September, was bailed out by
naval officer against the protest and active
interference of the Governor of the
Territory and the Marshal of the court.
The opposition of the Governor and
Marshal rested only upon the fact
that the accused was an Indian; that
to bail an Indian out of prison was an OBJ
structlon OF justice, and that for a naval
officer to bail out any prisoner was an un-
warranted Interference in civil affairs. The
Judge and District Attorney, however,
ruled more justly, and accepted bond of
$1,000 from Lieutenant G. r. Emmons as
surety for the appearance of the Indian.
term Of court. This is 'f the 1 frst time
probably that any white man ever went
bail for an Indian, or that Territorial Off
Gals protested against an Indians receiving
So common a privilege as that of bail.
ChartrIch, who Is one of the chiefs of the
Chilkat tribe was indicted in 1888 for OBJ
structing Deputy Marshal while the latter
was attempting to make an arrest. The
Marshal, seeking to arrest murderer came
to lodge, where number Of Indians, half
drunk with hoochinOo (Uative RUM, were
dancing. Chartrich warned the Marshal to
keep away, and finally prevented him from
entering the house at that time His reason
was that the half-crazy Indians would cer-
tainly resist the arrest of one of their COM
pany and no doubt do the Marshal bodily
harm. For three years the indictment rested,
and nc attempt was made to arrest Chartrich
until this summer, when in the midst of the
salmon-hshing season the Deputy Marshal
suddenly arrested him and brought him
down to Sitka and turned him over to the
United States Marshal to hold until Septem-
Der.
Lieutenant Emmons. whose chronological
and archaeological studies have taken him 10
every part of Southeastern Alaska during
the last nine years, and who has won the
friendship and confidence of the Indians
wherever he has gone, Immediately offered
bail for Chartrich. The Judge and District
Attorney fixed and accepted the amount of
bail, but the Governor and Marshal pro-
tested as stated above, and threatened to
report Lieutenant Emmons to the Navy De-
partment at Washington and tried to pre-
vent in every way the bail being accepted.
The white residents at ehilkat speak in
the highest terms of Chartrich as being
promoter OF peace and order among the In .
dams. They, as all Others who know the
Indian character, consider Lieutenant En-
mons promise to produce Chartrch in Sep
TENDER as certainly to be fulfilled. When
released on bail Chartrich was returned to
Chilkat on board the United States steam
ship Pinta, which was making a cruise to
that region. In few weeks the Pinta will
make another cruise to Chikat and will
bring Charfrich down to Sitka for trial
Tacoma Morning Globe.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

many reasons why skirts at present have
10 be lifted. There is the simple and natural
reason which appeals to the average woman,
who wears the long dress without any
especial prejudice for or against 1t, just be-
cause it is the fashion; the dress is too long.
There Is the reason which appeals to the
woman who goes to the races this summer;
she has most gorgeous stockings and they
must he displayed. There is the reason
which appeals to the woman who crosses
Broadway and Twenty-third street; they
sometimes have, and at other times think
they have pretty ankles. Putting one thing
with another there is a lively interest in the
new wrinkle, which consists simply in fin
iShng the foundation skirt across the back
there being no foundation in front-with
ruche or rulfie and putting deep facing to
the outside material forming the dip" SO
that. when necessary TO lift, the outside only
is taken up. in the hand.
The contrivance and The cut OF the skirt
Itself gains interest from the new dress-re-
f0rm crusade now so bravely under way.
The young enthusiasm with which Chau-
tauqua has gone into dress reform Is fine.
1t viii recloihe the world with set of
resolutions. But, bless you, the feminine
half OF the world hasn't sufficient idea of
what freedom of body might mean to know
The morning call., 1891-08-23
BOARD OF EXAMINERS,
No More Special Examinations Except
Emerreucfes

No More Special Examinations Except In
Emergencies.
The Board of Examiners of the School
Department met yesterday afternoon and
granted a special frst-grade certificate to
Miss Dora Kosminsky, good for six years,
and enabling her to teach stenography.
The next semi-annual examination has
been set for September Dist, and it will con-
tinue without interruption, except on the
Odd. until finished.
Examinations for special certificates will
be held hereafter only at regular examina-
tons, except in cases of urgent necessity.
Second-grade certificates were renewed
to the Misses T. f. Pearce, Kate McLaugh-
lin, f. p. Morrison aud NJ. g. Gagan.
Superintendent SWEET and the Misses
Rightmier and Dixon, special committee on
examination in sewing, will continue their
session On Thursday at p. NJ.
The morning call., 1891-08-23
FIRST MODELS
FOR AUTUMN.
They Show Some Dress Imlr0FGrS and
DGmi- Trains.
With the Fall Rains Women Will Sweep the
Streets More Thoroughly Re-
form and Physical Culture.


New YORK, Aug. II, 1891. - The first
models for autumn, made in New York or
brought in swift steamers in the hurricane
month from the other side, present some in
teresting pecuIiarities. The street dress is
longer than it has been throughout the sum-
ner, though an unparalleled individual
would have said this was quite unnecessary.
The street dress, indeed, has boldly and
without the hesitation hat characterized its
early experiments, taken to itself demi-
train. The train, or dip" falls from
the waist in fan platings and has usually
very narrow. flouneed ''dress-improver" of
grass cloth to give it the required chang"
The all-round reed is LEGS common than 1t
was two months ago, but that the idea of
skirts swollen and rotund with hoops has
not been abandoned is to be inferred from
the fact that all skirts are much increased
at the foot. and from the other fact that the
favorite trimming is puff that stands out
full and large and round.
AS skirts have heightened waists have
shortened We shall not get back quite TO
the Empire fashion at present, but the waist
line is being carried up, month by month,
perceptibly, and this with the dem-train
produces an effect as if all women had sud
denly grown tall.
Quite as interesting as any feature OF
what dressmakerS call the autumn styles"
is the ingenuity expended on ways and
means of taking up the train. There are
The morning call., 1891-08-23
FOR CARRYING BABY.

There is always something being invented
for the benefit of one class or another, and
the latest production of inventive genius,
the patent baby carrier" will specially ap-
peal to the host of mothers. This most in
genious and useful little article is in reality
miniature hammock, which can be fas-
tened round the neck at various heights by
strong hooks; the baby being placed inside,
the hands of the nurse are left perfectly
free, the arms are saved from any strain or
subsequent aching and perfect comfort and
The morning call., 1891-08-23

safety are insured for the child. The "baby
carrier" weighs under three ounces. will
wash and when not in use can be folded up
into very small compass and carried in the
pocket. Every woman knows how when
baby wants to be nursed everything else
must he put aside, and every movement stu
died, therefore the value of an article, the
use of which admits of book or work be-
ing held and saves the arms from many an
hours aching, can be thoroughly appre-
ciated.-The Ladies' Pictorial.
The morning call., 1891-08-23
Fell Tbrouob a MAMMAL.

Edward Nugent has sued c. A. Warren
and Edward Malley. contractors under the
Harbor Commissioners, for $4,000 dam
ages. alleging that on the 9th of March, while
going to the ticket Office Of the Southern Pa
citic Company, he tumbled into hole which
had been left unguarded by the contractor,
and that he was covered with mnd and
water. He says he was seriously injured by
his fall and by reason of his partial submer
sion contracted lung disease.
The morning call., 1891-08-23
Mrs. Anna Morrison Reed Honored.

Mrs. Anna Morrison Reed of Laytonyille.
the well-known poetess and lecturer, has
been chosen by the Agricultural Society OF
Sonoma to deliver the inaugural address at
Petaluma, on Thursday evening next. The
lady has also been invited to deliver the
opening address before the Twelfth District
Agricultural Association Counties of Lake
AID Menducino) in the Court-house in
Ukah on the evening Of the 18th of Sep
TENDER.
The morning call., 1891-08-23
The Minhow-scratcher pnnishsa

Fred Ferria, the brewer, who defaced
many large sbow-windows with diamond
ring, was sentenced by Judge Worley YES
terday to pay fine Of 5000 or to serve 200
days Imprisonment in the House of Correc-
ton. He was convicted upon two of the
seven charges OF malicious mischief against
him
The morning call., 1891-08-23
Memories of Other DAYS.

A novel entertainment, entitled Men,
cries of Other Days." will be given on Tues
day evening in the church parlors of the
Ladies' Society Of Woodbridge Presbyterian
Church, corner of Twentieth and Capp
streets. The very best available amateur
musical and literary talent will take part,
and antique foreign and home costumes will
be worn on the platform.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

Mayor Sanderson, Supervisor Ebert
Chairman of the Finance CommitteeA As
SCISSOR Siebe and two or three of his head
deputies will go to Sacramento to argue
with the State Board of Equalization against
an increase of San Franchises real estate
oasascmant
The morning call., 1891-08-23
Overcnme hv a. Ill.,.

Morris Kerwin, bricklayer employed on
the new Mills Building. was overcome yes
terday afternoon and taken to the Receiving
Hospital. He was soon restored to con-
seriousness. He was suffering more from
heart disease than the heat
The morning call., 1891-08-23
Six Months for a Coat.

William Williams stole coat from the
New Western Hotel on Friday and was
promptly taken in. He was convicted of
petty larceny yesterday and Judge Rix sem
fenced him to six months Imprisonment in
the House OF Correction.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

upon society. John Auburntop's heroine,
in his novel, is Minerva Jackson. a live
Western girl. who is ready and willing to
make happy home for man she can love.
The book is written in a style that is very
pleasing. 1t commends itself to the general
reader and will prove exceedingly interest
ing to college students, W no will find it a
charming story.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

The most fashionable watering place in
the United States is illustrated in the latest
issue of Frank Leslie's Illustrated
Weekly" one of the pictures being the
style OF summer dress at IL o'clock in the
morning at this fashionable resort.
"Harper's Young People" of the 18th of
the current month contains "a Few Re-
marks to Young Lawn Tennis Players"
contributed by Oliver S. Campbell, the
laMn-tennlS chamninn of America
The morning call., 1891-08-23

Ladies' Plain and Fancy Jerseys.
At 25c.
LADIES ALL-WOOL JERSEYS, in all
colors and black, sold regular for ST,
will be closed out at Csc each.
AT SOC.
LADIES FINE MOHAIR JERSEYS, in
extra heavy quality, in all colors and
black. regular price ST. 80. will be closed
out at SOC each.
AT 75c.
LADIES' IMP ORTED CASHMERE
JERSEYS, in Garnet, Cardinal, Green
and Brown vest fronts, sold regular for
81 70, will be closed out at Toe each.
Al Z5c.
LADIES' FINE ALL-WOOL JERSEYS.
plated vest fronts, in several colors,
sold regular for ST. 70, will be closed
out at roc each.
At IS 90.
LADIES IMPORTED CASHMERE
JERSEYS, vest fronts, extra heavy
quality, in Cardinal, Brown. Garnet and
Navy, regular price 81 so, will be closed
out at 81 each.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

Russell Lowell. The sketch of Mr.. Lowell
was written by his lifelong friend, George
William Curtis.
The morning call., 1891-08-23


s t Mlh the past four months therefore
themselves
The morning call., 1891-08-23
UNPARALLELED
SACRIFICE OF FINE
DRY GOODS!


a
bargains o beoffr sWek.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

Mr. Ramon E. Wilson, who has reputa-
ton as fisher. presents the leading article
In the September issue of Tine Overland
Monthly" 1t is entitled "Trout-ishing in
California" and is illustrated with photo
graphic and pen sketches. 1t is a very in
tereSting sketch of where the sportive trout
disports and when and how to catch him.
In addition to this the magazine contains a
number of well written articles that are
very pleasant reading.
The morning call., 1891-08-23

"Harper's Weekly" published August
10th, contains full-page portraits, with bio
graphical sketches. of the late George Jones
Of the New York Times" and Of James
Smyrna times., 1891-03-18
Moor Baths.

The moor baths, of which much is
now heard, and which are provided at
many Austrian and German health re-
sorts, were first used at Franzensbad. In
1928 DR.. Poschmann, a physician there,
believed that he had found in them
new curative medium, and they have
since become popular. Some physicians
still question their efficacy, while others
in Austria and Germany rely upon them
to render good service in many maladies.
Though the bath is composed of peat or
moor earth to which enough water has
been added to make thick paste of the
mass, yet the peat is different from that
which is extracted from bog in Ireland
or Scotland.
In both Ireland and Scotland the peat
is used as fuel; at Frauzensbad the min
eralized peat will not serve such pur-
pose. The bog from which it is extract
ed has been saturated throughout count
less ages with mineral water, and the
product Is a strong chemical compound.
Thus a moor bath is a mineral bath in q
concentrated form, and effects are pro.
duced upon the system by taking q
course Of these baths which cannot be
produced, according to experts, by any
mineral water.-Blackwood's Magazine.
Smyrna times., 1891-03-18
A Dramatist with influence.

Queen Elizabeth of ROumania has
written a play which she is pleased to
describe as a tragedy, but which is really
q piece of the most wildly and extrava-
gantly sensational kind. 1t is entitled
"Meister Manolly," and it ia to be intro,
duced at the Vienna Court theatre, The
piece is of the old transporting order,
with ghosts, murders, a wife walled up
alive. and other sensational episodes, and
it is full of prepOsterous situations, alb
surdly stilted dialogue and Bombastes
FuriOso defamation. Queen Elizabeth,
when she was recently at Vienna, in
vited the company of the Court theatre
to partake Of a sumptuous dejeuner at
the Hotel Imperial, and the champagne
flowed in rivers at the meal. Her mai
esty read the play to her guests, who
applauded it as q matter Of course, and
then she went 10 see the emperor, and in
duced him to command that the piece
should be produced at the Hofburg,
where, as a rule, new plays are not
readily accepted. London Truth.
Smyrna times., 1891-03-18
Marvellous Endurance,

The last amount of labor performed by
the heart in keeping all portions of the
body supplied with blood is not generally
known. 1t beats 100000 times, and forces
the blood at the rate of l68 miles a day,
which is 100000, 900 times and 5,l50, $50
miles in a life time. No wonder there are
somany Heart Failures. The first symptoms
pain in side or stomach, huttering, choking
in throat, oppression, then follOW weak,
hungry or smothering spells, swollen an
kles, etc. DIR. Franklin Miles New Heart
Cure is the only reliable remedy Sold by
j. w. Denney.
Smyrna times., 1891-03-18
THE SMYRNA TIMES.
Smyrna, DeI.,
Wednesday Afternoon, March 1S, 1891
nuIIRch sERVCEs,

AsRuRY METHoDIsT EPIscoAPL.-sunday-Prea
ing at 1O% A. N and ~ P. NJ Sunday School
Rev. w. W. w. Wilson, Pastor.
sr PErER's PROTESTANT EPIsCOPAL.-Sunday-
Preaching at IO1& A. N. and 71zP. N. Holy Days
-9I% A. N. Sunday SCHOOL, P. N. Prayer
Meeting wednesdays, at "a P. M. Rev. q. W.
Dame, Rector.
PeEsRyTERIAN -Sunday-Preaehing at lOI A. N.
and ~ p N. Sunday seho0l-2P Prayer
Meeting-Fridays at P. NJ. Rev. c. g. Adams,
pastor.
ST. POIYcARP CATHOLIC CHURcH.-Mass on First
and Third Sundays, at 7.30 A. NJ, and on the
Second and Fourth Sundays, at 1913 A. N.
Catechism Glasses taught every Sunday after
Mass. Rev. Jas. P. Quigley. pastor.
CrNrENN1A1 METHODIST EPISCOPAL (Colored) -
Sunday-Preaching at IL A. NJ. and ~ P. NJ
Sunday School, P. NJ. Rev. 5. Hammond
Pastor.
A. NJ. K. H.-Sunday-Preaching at lOE
N. and ~ p. NJ. Sunday SchOol-2% P. NJ
Raw J. peYtOn, Pastor.
Smyrna times., 1891-03-18
PoIsons In Cosmetics

It seems to be the fashion for young
ladies with pimples and blotches on
their faces to make experiments with
various cosmetics. Madame Piffypaffy
advertises her foreign named com
pound, composed Of combination of
poisonous mineral substances that
deaden and burden the delicate sub
stances that deadcn and burden the
delicate substances of the skin. There
are no compilations like those that
nature give. The tonic, Strengthening
and health-giving effects of Swift's Spe-
cifc Is. S. ST. permit nature to work
her will in this respect, as thousands of
ladies, both young and old, have dis
covered. The cheapest and most beau
tiful compilations depend on health
and vigOr 1t is the office of Swift's
Specific Is. S. S. to give vigOr and tone
and health to the system, and in this
way to give lustre to the eye and roses
to the cheeks.