New-York tribune., 1891-12-27
THE FASHIONS.
opLIvc CTOTUS ALREADY.

yor,b of England tweeds which iormed so iarso
norton of the samples in the importers oooNS q.
time The reaction from the use OF these nc"'s so
in the warm season. was certain, anu ,ii' :. "., 1
In the new spring wO0llens. Ihcy arc soi.' ''' ,ss
varm for their purpose yet exquisely light III ""sh~
,aa,.,o. I'm weave are a feature of the new cotis'
rno :. .crocosier crepon cloths. the pleated soouS
nsse toile) Bedford cords, and varous fancy dias"
and fancy cords make up the puh VI 'n. -, =,
,.o,o,ors The influence of Louis XIV fashions Is
seen I'm the delicate new colorings "nich arc mp
20 t,ke the uacc OF the more pronounced DARK sh"o'
which have hitherto been chosen for street "e"'
silvery shades of gray, mode eolors, deep s'ouo
and sbaaovy hues of brown and gray are largely in
nortcd Beige colors and all the natuiai snaae' VI
undvcd hues of wool or cotton promise 10 oc pop"''
aroin To he worn in juxtaposition to these W
brighten them, rose tints ana bines anu 81. -
sevrcs hues. A few violet colors are sho"n' "i -
IS new gray in purplish tones; but this Is all .,a'
romains of the once popular purple shades. lhc
spring coors though they vii! be becoming " idi,
voung faces will be trying to those WHO nave p''"e"
the meridian of their youth, and whose uuii 'o"'
pIexions need the relief of stronger coior' nv
likely that it will be possible TO make the gray ""1
mode shades universally popular In this country 10
they arc never becoming 10 0dr ploVerDihiy pan'u
American women.
The greatest novelties in the new dre's soods arc
the pllsse cloths These cloths are woven III peate'
ipches large portion are made with narrow pients
not over an eighth of an inch wde and the pieae
merely gives the effect Of raised stripe III the soo''
This effect is the pronounced by sepaiahs .hcae
narrow pcas by plain spaces OF an men ana i hai''
and. in some cases, by covering them with s1tin
or silk spe often in contrasting color to the darKer
ground OF the goods. Thus, we have porcelain or
moonlight blue wool, laid in narrow pleats an men
and half apart, each pleat being covered WIN d
stripe of svcry gray. mode eoiofed erounu 10
striped with dull gold color, dark gray win pa'er
silver gray and tan color with yellow LII otier
cloths for wraps the pleatS an inch VIDE ana are
laid close together with no intervening space. such
material as this promises to be popular In black Tor
manes, which will probably be more desirable during
the coming than the closer fitting and therefore
warmer Jackets Pngat has already sent over NANTES
OF black plsse.
The crepon cloths, which were introduced In
limited quantity last summer promise TO become lead
Ing material in the coming season. They are In no
sense an imitation Of GRAPE the vale being usually
much larger and pronounced and in many OF the
new weaves forming pattern in the goods They
are wiry that they do not crinke easily, ana the
dust may be as readily brushed from them as from
Bedford cord. Moreover, they have dull surface,
which Is exceedingly becoming when used In 1uxtar
position with dark velvet as IL undoubtedly VIII be-
The newest crep0ns called crocodile cloths be-
cause they are waved in heavy vale like the leather
OF crocodile. though never In It's set, scaly figure
The plsse effect already described is shown even in
the crepon cloths some of which are figured through
their waved surface with Irregular, broken pleat'
still other crepons have dots of plain surface scattered
through their crnkled ground still others are mixed
| with silk. and the vale forms distinct pattern OF
lotos leaves clustered closely together. Twotoned
cloths of this kind. in sllvery gray SHADES are eS-
pecially beautiful Tiny overshot figures Of dots OF
osebuds similar designs in silk are scattered over
| o+bs
an allover silk pattern in tapestry effect OF tangled
vine and roseleaf Among the prettiest cloths Inquired
in secolor those scattered with double erescents
The BEDFORD cloths OF the coming season are shown
in a great variety of fancy styles. though the plain
| cord promises to be elegant than the crepon
cloths and to be especially popular for wraps There
are BEDFORD cloths this scattered with tiny shot
figures In bud or snowrop effect; still others figured
| with stripes of corded siHlike ribbons. Among
| the most positive fancy effects ara those crossed by
| raised diagonal cord or in diagonal stripe Of
Bedford cord alternating with stripe OF cTpon, each
! stripe about inch wide. There are many Bed
ford cords in which the cords form distinct stripes in
color These will he suitable chiefly for children and
| in combination with plain cord though where TWO
| tones of color In subdued shades ara thus mingled
together, they will undoubtedly be used for tailor
dresses There Is slight attempt to introduce baya
dere stripes which we're so popular in the time Of
"A fashion should again prevail Some Of the
new cords are crossed by little stripes in white or
gold silk giving the effect Of crossover line Of silver
| or gold tnsel Others are crossed BY zigzas Dnes.
| The corded and crepon effects already described
| have by no means driven plain camels hairs out
Of use. The new camers bair goods softer and
more exqusitely silken In than they have
been-f that is possible. They figured for dress
| goods-with scattered figures generally-in a shade
| darker than their ground. in preference 10
the figures in contrasting color In use
last season. There many cames hairs striped with
millereye lines and striped with lines of rough wool
scallered with raised knobs Of rough wool and called
| by TIE French "bouton cotlls.'
| FIesch sutpgs in heather mixtures, crossed with
fine silk crOssbars striped with harstrpes in silk
are again imported for tailor gowns OF light weight
| These cloths, though longer novelty make
cspec ally rehned travelling dresses and ulsters. There
also fancy silk and wool stripes which crossed
by distinct zigzag lines. These suggested BY the
patterns of the silks Of last season. They have nc
special reason for existence, except the unwritten
law which to govern the pattern makers of
goods that they must initiate to some extent the
popular patterns used by silk-makers. There is the
les, reason for this as any woman Of taste know
that the most desirable patterns in silk often the
least d sirable in WOOL Wool goods have different
character from silk that they should have patterns
their We have also camels hair figured i'll yarn
printed effects, which are popular enough for certain
purposes in silk and cotton goods, but hardly seem
suited to wool.
A fine evenly cloth Of the wiry texture of The
serge which is crossed at intervals of half inch by
heavy diagonal cords either single double, is prob
ably imported TO take the place Of the popular
English serge IL in navy blue, and cream
white. and black only, and will cost on the counter:
about 81 30 yard. Diagonal aFmure cloths and
various fancy serge and other diagonal goods showr
for substantial tailor gowns
The grenadines striped with moire in sell
and contrasting coors Some Of the black grenadines
in plain sewing striped with a brilliant
array of colOrs yellow and blue like the Roman