The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1891-10-11
WHAT MEN WILL WEAR.
PREVAILING STYLES IN GARMENTS
FOR FALL AND WINTER.
Washington Tailors Tell the Colors and
Designs That Find Most Tavor-No
Striking Novelties-Hints as 10 Hats
and Ties.

Although fashion plates exert to small ex-
tent an influence on styles, the real types Of
dress for each season are made by the people
themselves. Every person has his own idea as
to what is becoming and proper, and It is only
by the combined influence of majority of
those who are known for their taste In affairs
of dress that a certain color, or fabric, or form
is made the prevailing type. Especially is
this true in regard to mems outer garments
for the tailor but carries out the desire OF his
patron as to the style he prefers.
For this section of the country the fall sea-
son has been unusually late, but sufficient fall
and winter clothing has been made to indicate
what the fashion in these goods will be- Busi-
ness suits are preferred Of a rough material,
such as English homespun, Scotch tweed, or
unfinished WOOL They are warm and COM
Portable materials which wear well and of such
texture that they hold their shape and do
not wrinkle easily. In color the varieties of
brown will most frequently be seen-wood
brown, nut brown, and a prettily toned vino
brown. Blush gray and mouse-colored ma
terial, which have been introduced this season,
meet with considerable favor These are new
colors that find considerable demand, but they
will not overshadow the ever prevailing and
always tasteful blues and blacks.
There have been no notable changes in the
cut of goods. For business the double
breasted sack coat VIII be even more popular
than last year, and the three-buttoned long
sack Will also be worn. They will have three
buttons with two button-holes on the roll,
which will be wide The backs will be long
and without seams and well fitted In, rather
than the full box style. The trousers and
vests will be made to match. Vests will be
cuta little higher than last year. Trousers
will be more shapely fitted over the shoe and
closer while the tendency in width is smaller
in business clothes and trife wider in dress
suits.
For morning and afternoon dressy suits the
three-buttoned cutaway viii stiil be the fashion.
They are made of black material, Usually clay
diagonal, with light-colored trousers. White
vests Will be worn with them to some extent,
but great many double-breasted fancy vests
have been made. Either stitched or bound is
proper. There seems to be return Of senti-
ment in favor OF the Prince Albert, and lead
ing tailors says that there will be more of this
style OF coat worn this winter than there has
way and Prince Albert will be made long
wasted with long skirts and fitted very
snuRly.
In evening dress suits there will be no
change. Broadcloth still meets the popular
favor. The attempt to introduce finished
woods and diagonals met with certain
amount OF favor, but the majority cling to
broadcloth. One reason for this is the fact
that suit OF this material can be slowed
away for almost any number OF years and
when needed pressing is all that is necessary
TO make the suit as good as new. In style the
peaked lapel Is more popular than the shawl
Whether faced with silk or hroadcloth Is
equally stylish. White vests with dress suits
with watch chain of broad silk will be worn
to considerable extent.
Dealers in custom-made clothes say that
they find an increasing trade in this city.
Large firms, they state have been established
which provide suits of such wide range In
sizes that any figure can be fitted The
clothes are made in the very latest styles
and of the best MATERIAL so that there
Is very little advantage to be gained in
having clothes made to order. For this
reason there are great many people who can
well AFFORD TO pay for tailor-made clothes who
purchase their garments from ready-made
clothiers Most Of the establishments of this
kind have their own tailors in their stores,
who fit their customers SO that practically the
clothes are made to order. There are, how
ever, large class OF people who can never be
persuaded to buy cloths of this kind, and
for this reason the tailoring establishments
| find an excellent business in Washington. To
| be sure they have the clothes of every char
| acter and description, and person can per-
haps be better suited at tailoring house.
cit would be difficult matter" one dealer
said, ''to compare the tastes of the men of this
| city as regards clothing with those of other
places for the reason that the population here
| is composed OF citizens from all over the coun-
| try 1t is a fact, however, that as a rule the
men IN this city dress remarkably we'll. Their
| ideas are good, and they choose their gar
ments with excellent taste. There seems to
| be no desire, even among the small number of
| sporting people that exist here, to dress in
| loud or fashy manner. We have no call for
| clothes of this character, and 1t is dead loss
| for any one to keep them in stock. Every
| thing tends to quiet and refined material.'
~ have found" another dealer said, ''that
| the men OF Washington are more difficult to
| please than In any other city In which have
| conducted tailoring establishment. They de-
| sire the very best Of materials and as to the
| fit they are particularly exacting. One reason
| which makes it difficult for us is the fact that
| many young men here desire to have one suit
| which they can utilize both for business and
| as a semi or afternoon dress suit. In other
cities they would purchase two suits, one for
| each purpose"
The information from which this article
was written was CLEANED from the leading
tailors and clothing establishments in this
| city. The facts as to the fall and winter
| styles were made up as consensus OF opinion
| of those seen by a HERALD reporter and in
| some details may differ from the views ex-
| pressed by each individual, but as to the main
| points they were expressed by all and conse-