The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-03-08
THE PROPER DRESS
TOR MEN TO WEAR.
FASHIONS But Little Changed Since Last
Fall and Summer.
society's Dictum Showing What Gentleman
Must Don in Order to Be Recognized
as a Member Of the Select.

With the approach of spring and summer,
man, as we'll as nature, changes his garo.
The difference between the two is that
while nature always preserves its old fash
Toned sameness, man, the creature Of
change, delights in something new. and in
order that his desires in this respect m ay be
gratifed the everything sartOrial artist
lends a hand, and the butterfly of the pres
eut and future energies from the chrysalis
of the past. Changes are never abrupt.
They are made gradually, aud we have the
authority Of the Sartorial Art Journal, pub
lshed by John II. Mitchell & Co. of New
York, for saying that since the last annual
report fashion has INDUCED in nothing
whimsical or extravagant, although some
new effects have been introduced, and the
current styles of last fall remain subs tan
tally correct for the coming season.
The leading characteristics of gentlemen's
garments will be plainness. In fabrics
Quietness is apparent Bindings will be less
used, and narrow single stitching will be
fayerite edge finish. Covered buttons and
buttons of the same material as tile garment
will be fancied, but ivory, bone and metal
buttons will find less favor than for several
seasons During the early part Of the sea-
son lightweight Overcoats are very neces-
sary garments. They will be chiefly OF
rongh-faced goods, and the leading style
will be the Chesterfield, cut moderately
loose though not SO much 50 as not to trace
the outlines Of the form. 1t will reach in
length to Just above the bend OF the knee,
and will usually have the edges
siugle-stitch9d narrow, with the seams
left plain, or turned and stitched to match
the edges. The lapels and collar VIII be
light, and the roll, when the fronts are
closed, will be from FIVE to five and half
inches long. The silk will, as rule, extend
to the edge, though many will prefer to have
the cloth show beyond the end of the collar.
The breast-pbcket will be finished with
welt, but the others will have flaps TO 90 10
and out, and the sleeves will be finished with
deep vent closed with two buttons or with
a shallow vent and no button. A variation
OF the Chesterfield is the oyercoat with
shawl collar. 1t is, in fact, the same gar
ment except that the roll is of the shawl
form and silk covered. Its widest part is
well up toward the top OF the shoulder
where the outside edge rounds gracefully,
but below this widest part the edge is
nearly straight, giving the roll decidedly
tapering instead OF blunt, shad-bellied APP
pearance.
A MODIFIED CHESTERFIELD.
The covert coat is a modified Chesterfield.
1t has the side seams left open for four or
five inches, a moderately short roll of ample
proportions, square corners, flaps on all its
pockets; the edges double-stltched, with the
seams tapped and stitched to match; and
the sleeves stitched three, four or five times
around the bottom. 1t will be longer than
heretofore, and its length will average
from "a to 50 inches.
Both the double-breasted frock and either
the three or four button cuta way are worn
for day dress. The double-breasted frock
is made of fine worsted cheyiot or thibet,
and for a man Of average height should have
q waist length of 1917 inches, and be 361a
inches long. The lapels should be well
peaked and 2h inches wide at the top, "a
at the breast, and "a at the waist seam
should have five holes, evenly spaced, and
when buttoned the roll should extend to the
third button. The edges may be finished
with fine silk cord, with a single row OF
stitching one-efghth Of an inch back of it;
single stitched very close or bound narrow.
Tire silk should extend TO the button-hOles,
and the sleeves should be finished with imi-
tation cuffs, closed with three buttons.
The eutawaY should have waist length