Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-11-19

"Then in fitting you gave no thought to
symmetry or proportion. Like these dress
makers in fine, you took in your seams in
any way that promised to make smooth,
tight fit By consequence, your back forms
are hardly an inch wide in the arm-hole. In
a well-cut bodice they are as wide there as
at the waist line The swell of bust and
shoulders is accommodated by the back and
front figures.
when stuff is cut on the cross you should
be as careful to have true bias around the
waist, and up the fronts and back seams.
Another thing, if you want your gown to sit
smooth over the shoulder. before basting it
up stretch each front piece as much as you
can half way from the neck to the arm-hole,
and hold the back full to it for the same
distance. Never mind the apparent quicker.
! Pressing will Danish it and give you an easy
seam that will hug the curve Of the Shout
der almost as mans coat does"
| HIf the armholes need taking in this artist
either sets the forms higher on the back or
changes them all, bottom as well as top.
Then too there is art in cutting sleeve,
for it is essential to a good fit that the
cloth for both upper and under sides run
straight at the hand and bias at the top.
| On the texture being diagonal depends the
beauty of a full-gathered top. A neat fin
| ish at the wrist is to have the sleeve lap
and buttoned with three buttons.
Goats are likely 10 maintain their popu-
larity during the winter and the coat effect
is sought for even in the basques, for in the
pleated hip basql lie the pleating is fire.
quently not carried around the edge of the
bodice, but is only seen on the back, giving
the idea of gentleman's coat, and in this
way imparting elegance to the figure.
Blouse waists are not on the wane, but
in order to be becoming and graceful they
must be made over fitted lining. Rosettes
are much used in dress and hat trimmings.
Satin ribbon is preferred, and it is not I'M
usual to see three of these clustered at the
waist where the pleats of the straight
skirt come together in the back, the ele-
eance in the skirt, as in other parts of a
gown, depending on the cut, without regard
to the style of the skirt. Capes of cloth
and velvet still hold woman's fancy. When
the color is black or some dark shade,
a bright colored lining re-
lieves, and is usually of satin.
These capes have high standing
collars and black velvet cape with jet
collar is very elegant and becoming. The
Philadelphia Times thus describes a Paris
ian gown, which is called "a carriage
dress" THE material was ladys cloth
and velvet. The cloth of an uncertain green
gray and the velvet very dark red or ma
hogany. In looking at this gown the stand
point changes the view decidedly. In front
we see coat, on the side redingote and at
the back q princess. Both back and front
of the skirt open over panel of the velvet.
The sides of the coat are cut in graduated
lengths and fall over a splendid strand
fringe which ornaments either side. Large
buttons, a bit of fringe at the waist and the
pleated revers, which also form high col
lar, ornament the bodice The deep cuffs
of the full sleeves are made of both materi-
ais and are buttoned on the inside seam
with small velvet buttons. The hat is known
as the aureole in shape, is of green felt,
fluted brim faced with the red velvet and
trimmed velvet, anaigrette and tips"
What woman so pretty as not to wish to
enhance her loneliness by veil? This sea
son the yelling is more ample. The newest
hat wells are fully a yard long, and are
made of tulle or Brussels net, or are figured
with tiny sprays and bordered. To arrange
one for a large hat, slope away one side
from the top to one-third of the length of
the veil. The space between the cutoff
pieces is hemmed, and very narrow silk
ribbon inserted in the hem, leaving moder-
ately long ends. This is placed over the
brim and tied at the back. The ends of the
veil are also gathered up, and the hat and
face are thus completely shielded, without
seemingly being tied in bag. 1t is easier, |
however, to buy the veil ready made, and |
even fixed to the brim of the hat with |
which it is to be worn-especially as every |
hat is now supposed to have its own partic-
ular veil.