The state rights democrat. [volume] (Albany, Linn County, Oregon) 1865-1900, 1891-09-18
The 9eulotrat.
DEArn IN rnE TARIFF ror.

enhancement to the American manufsct-
urer by the agency Of the tariff on the
cost cf hls neediul supply Of wool OF
foreign origin, and not one jet sufficiently
understood or appreciated by the Amesi-
can masses, Is the permanent inducement
thereby created for the use OF something
as substitute, or In the place Of WOO, l,and
the bounty insured In proportion as the
substitute Is successful. The substitute oi
hitherto FIRST importance, and IN most gen.
eral use, Is the fbrous material oblsd
by tearing or grladlng up old woolea Ia
btics and which Is designated, according
to its degree OF dlsintegration, as'shod
dy," "munso," "wasle," "devlrs dust"
etc. All argee that shoddy 10 not wool
and that Its use involves large element oi
deterioration. What II may bo and. .gen-
orally Is in its primal state may be inferred
u one remembers that so long as wool
fabric retains its origiral form 4 rarely
passes out OF use by men or animals, to
become economically servieeable for the
manufacturer OF shodGY and lts.eongeners
anti Il has become so saturated with and
so repulsive from impurities, largely of an
organic nature, that It can no longer sub
serve any original purpose as fabric.
When the celebrated wool tariff bill ol
1867 was before congress the members OF
the executive comwiltec OF the National
Association Of Wool Manufacturers char
actsrized shoddy In their report as "worth-
less material" and advocated the lmposi-
tion ot more "stringent duties" on Its inn
portation; and further declared that II
textiles made from shoddy were to be sd-
milled under low duties the country would
"be inundated by wrecked iabrieA." And
In the debates on the bill In question In
congress no little eloquenee was expended
In depicting the calamity and nastiness
which would be entAiled on the American
people u they were to be tempted by
eheaPness Into the wearing OF wooden gar
ments made of old rags.
With clear field guaranteed to them
against the competition Of the dlsreputable
foreign manufacturers, and debarred also
from supplying themselves with coarse
and cheap bvt sound woods, by reason ol
the heavy duties on their Importation
American manufacturers have tumbled
over each other, as Il were. 10 their eager,
ness to manufacture shoddy; and the
American people today to the extent that
they wear what are termed wooden clothes
OF American manufacture probably weai
more shoddy and less wool than the p, o
pie of aay Other country. A brief hIslory
at this point OF the use OF shoddy In the
United States is essential to the complete
] ness OF the discussion. Originally,or pre-.
vlous to 1850, |, was used only for padding
and stuiiing saddles and the like. The wal
opened up large opportunity 10, iss prof
liable use Ia the fabrication of army cloth
for overeoats, Pnd the quality of such
overcoaiE has no, YET passed eut o.
public memory. In 1870 the domestic
annual consumption was reported at about
Io,371,ooo pounds and In 1850 a. an amount
equivalent to about 10000 900 pounds oI
unwashed wool. According to the census
of 1880. ~ per cent. OF the material tina
constitute the so-calIed wooden fabrics ol
the country was something that was no
wool.
As to the proportions Of shodjy and
other materials no, wocl which enter into
the wooleu fabrics Of The United States a
the present time, nothing. in,he absens'
Of the census returns for 1890, can be def
inIteiy affirmed. And Il Is exiremei,
doubtful whether data admitting Of cor.
rect estimate will now be furnished b,
manufacturers, or u furnished will b
given publicity by the present census an.
thorities. There are, however. some vcry
significant facts.
Independent Of the census and aeeessl
bic to the public, which will help 10 Tia
formation of an intelligen, opinion on thi
subject. For example. the importation o
old woolen rags. shoddy "waste' and In,
like began to augment almost as soon a
the restrictive influences Of the tariff o
1867 on the importation OF wool began 4
be experienced. During the year 1870
5T7,7o7 pounds were returned as imported
in 1880 the imports we're ! ,3sS,733 pound
and In 1859 S,66r 400 pounds, an increas'
in nine years Of over 300 per cent.
There Is also a good deal Of eyiaencs
tending TO show that even shoddy Is be
coming too expenIiye, and therefore to'
good, for the protected American masse
to use as material for their wooden cloth
ihg, and that cheaper cotton, with Iess o
warmth and fitness, Is being substituted
Within the last few months (IS9I) tn
managers Gf leading trade journal--.h'
New York Dry Goods EeoSomisf-w with
view OF obtaining some definite inforna.
ton on this subject, and more esPecIall.
of determining why certain typical Amer
lean wooden manufacturers-members c
the Manufacturers Club Of Philadelphia
favored high and restri=tive duties on tn
import Of wool, aud others equally proinI
nent-members of the Wooi-Consumers
sssociation-were earnest advocates of fire.
wool, subjected to an analysis two piece
Of simiirr worsted cloths made by tie re-
spective parties. The results were as fol
lows: i. fabric made by the firm OF Thoma
Dolan & Co. representing the former
4
Mr. Dolan being also president Of the Phil
adelpfia Manufacturers Club--and sold Il
large quantities during the present seasor
at prices varying from "a plece-dyed sole
black al 81 50 TO fancy weaves from ST.
6zH to those containing silk twist at ST.
IS" was found 10 be composed Of 7S pc
cent. of wool which constituted the entire
ace Of the cloti,--front and back and 7.
per cent. Of cotton and shoddy, In the pro.
portion of ozH Der cent cotton and ~
per cent. Of shoddy.
A finer fabric OF the sanr order, g,
cloth which everyone but an expert woult
call an ALL v ool worsted cIolh." was fonne
TO contain "2I per ctrt Of cotton and Is
per cent. Of worstsd,v and tie Economis
adds: "rhe production of ibis firm is mucf
superior 10 most Of the cot;on-filet
a. ~