The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-11-18
CALIFORSIA WINES.

trOnted with Tie n5ureS. According to eStl-
mates furnished by Mr. Arpad Haraszthy
there were sent out of this Stale last year
between ten and eleven million gallons of
wine. About six million gallons moro were
consumed on this coast The total amount
OF wine imported into the United States
from France the same year was one and
three-Quarter million gallons, and the total
import into this country from all countries,
including France, was but two and three
quarter million gallons.
a vague idea prevails in most quarters
that California's wine product is principally
claret and Riesling, and that while we are
gradually bringing these to point of real
excellence, we will never be able TO COM
pete with Europe in the manufacture of the
heavy sweet wines or sparkling yintages.
There could not be greater mistake. We
have in this State from the northern coun-
ties 10 the southern boundary. from the
snow-clad mountains on the east to the bay
on the west, every graduation and variation
of soil and climate presented by France,
Spain, Portugal and Italy that are neces-
sary 10 the successful cultivation of the
grape. The best wine districts of Germany
have their prototypes in the different see
lions Of our wonderful STATE. We have all
through the StSte soils that contain the
requisite constituents of the best wine
grapes. We have a climate That ripens the
berries to the highest degree of perfection.
with a much less expenditure of labor in
caring for them. The dangers from DIS
ease and the mldew induced by summer
rains in Europe do not threaten the vines
here. Our northern hill counties produce
fruit equal to the finest in the wine produc-
ing districts Of Northern France. The
Rhine districts OF Germany, where vina-
growing means lard work from years end
TO years end. with only exceptional years
Of reward in full crops, find parallel cond-
tions Of soil and climate here. producing
better results at far less expenditure of time
and labor. In The warm valleys Of the i'll
terror grow tile generous berries that pre-
duce wines eXceliing in body and strength,
while by no means lacking in that delicate
aroma supposed TO be best developed by hard
ship and 4 struggle for existence in the chill
Rhnelands.
With these favoriDg conditions of soil.
climate and locality, proper understanding
Of the subject is alone necessary to our pro-
ducing as hne wines as axe known in the
world in quantities to supply the worlds
demand.
The favorable tariff provisions made by
famous sweet-wine clause Of the Mckinley
tariff, have operated 10 put wine-making in
California on basis that should en- bic the
industry here to compete with Europe. The
prospects for the wine-makers Of this State
were never better than al present Work
ing under great disadvantages and at an
expense that almost preciuded the idea of
pecunlaTy success, our pioneer manufact-
uTers have already achieved great results.
They have produced California port that,
for color, body and ripeness, closely ap-
proaches the generous, ful-haY0Ted product
OF the Oporto district. Results SO salts
factory have not as yet been attained in the
manufacture Of sherry, but this fact may
be attributed to the neYness OF the in
duStTy ana lack Of skill on the part of
manipulat0rs, rather than TO any deficiency
in the grapes produced here. The vines of
Andalusia can show no berries fiuer or bet
ter adapted to This purpose than those
grown in some of the vineyards of our
central region. Hook. Sauterne, Burgundy
Of admirable quality are produced here
CIaret from the LiYermore Valley was
awarded the first premium at the Paris Ex-
position, and long before that California
champagne. competing with fine French
champagne. was given the highest award in
New York City.
In justice to the judges on that occasion
we will state that they had no labels to
guide them in their selection, and were
righteously indignant when enlightened at
the questionable blunder into " hich their
tastes had betrayed them. They may now
take heart of grace, however, as high En-
glSh authorities have confirmed their judg-
ment, and even declare the young California
nh nj
the French districts. One San Francisco
house has. since August of this year,
shipped on orders 400 cases Of champagne
to London. England. where it has found a
lively sale at high prices. Thus, the idea
that champagne cannot be produced outside
of France is being exploded.
atural champagne is produced by differ
ent blendings and manipuations, for no
wine will sparkle by itself, and it requires
particular ability and experience to estab-
Ilsh proper assortment OF wines which, by
their characteristics, so improve or COM
plete eacn other as to form the blend aimed
at. We have the various wines that may
be so blended; we have some manufacturers
with the skill and experience necessary to
the business, and the result of their efforts
has proved that in this, as in other lines,
our Golden State product may yet rival that
of sunny France.
What we have not as yet, is proper Coy
eminent control of cur wine making bust
ness, regulating the times Of harvest in diff
ferent sections, establishing supervision
over vineyards, the classification of prod
ucis and the various supervisory relations
OF Government to the producer that in Eu-
ropean countries have brought this industry
to high state of perfection. So long as
every Yineyardist may harvest his grapes
according to his own judgment and con-
yentence as 10 season and their condition;
so long as every wine-maker may buy and
make into wine such grapes rs he sees fit,
so long there will be made large quantities
of interior wines. tending to bring the
better products of more conscientious man
ufacturers into disrepute. Wine-makers
and yineyardsts who desire the prosperity
OF the Industry should combine to bring
about the necessary Government super
vision OF these matters; TO secure the ap-
polntmeut in each district of expert harvest
commissions, authorized to decide, on per-
snnal examination Of the vineyards Of their
various districts. when most OF the grapes
in each were at the best stage OF ripeness
for wine-making, aud to secure the rejection
by manufacturers of inferior grapes, fit only
for brandy making, but which INSCRIPTIONS
wine-makers now buy, ostensibly to make
into brandy, only to convert them into
wine. Every wine maker should be re-
CURED by law to put his name on the la bel
of his product, both for his own protection
and that of the consumer, as we'll as for the
credit OF the State in which this is bound to
become such an important industry.
There can be no doubt but that the near
future will see the introduction of some
such provisions as these for the protection
and furtherance of the industry in Califor-
MIA, and the growing market for our prod
uct in the East and abroad will be supplied
with an Article of uniform and high quality.
-