The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-05-03
Tn SOUTHERN CLIMES
A Graphic Birdseye View of
Valparaiso.
GLIMPSES OF LIFE In CHILLI
Aigh-Toned BOmberos and Whlte-Gow ned
Penltents-Their Peculiar Habits
and Customs

1t was the year 1886 that Don Jaun Saareda
"a Spaniard, famous for nothing else
captured this locality from the aborigines.
He laid it out in three seperate towns, and
named them respectively "El PEerto,n (the
port, lei Almendral," and ''St. John of
God" but had them christened in the
lump, so to speak, under the general title
OF TdI-Pdrdi8o-'sV of Paradise" That
portion aIciently called FL Puerto is the
only level part Of the city and comprises
all the business quarter, which until re-
Gently consisted OF one long, struggling
street, close TO the beach.
The cueStaS, or hills, dedicated to ST. John
of God, which now comprise most Of the
residence portion, vary in height from one
thousand to fourteen hundred feet. Moth
ing can be more eXhilarating than an early
morning or sunset canter over those breezy
heights, along the new road that has been
cut out of solid rock, away up on the steep
precipices that face the bay. One day
WE WENT on FOOT TO TIE TOP
of the tallest cucSta, where in time of peace
signal staff gives notice of the approach
of shipping. Up and up we climbed, by a
winding pathway-part wooded stairs, part
stone pavement at sharp incline and slip
perry as glass; turning now to the right,
now to the left, according to the zigzag
trail, clinging to the iron railing that par
TALLY protects the path as 1t rounds the
cape of some mans garden; while a brisk
breeze turned our sun shades wrong side
out and threatened to serve our garments
in the same manner.
2 I'D fn CT down
on the stairs, ostersibly because so charmed
with the scene below, but in reality from
lack of breath to carry US another step.
just then handsome Chilena tripped past,
trailing black velvet gown weighted with
pounds of jet beads, yet looking unwearied
and fresh as a rosebud in June. But she
lives up here and is used to it, aud that
makes all the difference in the world, you
KNOW a boy with hundred-foot ladder
might
CLIMB FROM THE PUERTO" STRAIGHT Up
into her back yard in three minutes time,
while to reach the front door she must
wind around the hills mile or more. Al
most any resident of this part of the town
could easily surprise his nearest neighbor
by slipping off mis- own porch and landing
on the latter's roof; and if child should
happen to fall from the window OF many a
house, he would bring ups on the stone
paved street, five hundred feet below.
But the glorious view is worth climbing
for. There are beautiful hills, rising one
above another, dancing cataracts and ma
jestic mountains; there is the crescent
shaped bay without a ripple upon its burn
ished surface, its ships motionless as
sheeted ghosts, and lis rolling tides wash
ing the gray rocks at our fetal combin-
ing to produce an effect of profound peace
fulness. 1t is difficult to believe, amid
that war in its most horrible form, that OF
brother against brother, is deluging this
fair country with blood-impossible to rea-
lie that
FAMINE is ABROAD IN THE LAND,
and that even now starvation threatens the
citizens Of this ''Na ale of Paradise, y as well
as those of Chilis capital, since no crops
can be harvested, or fresh supplies brought
in from any source so long as the present
deplorable state of affairs continues. Al
ready the little food to be had commands
prices far beyond the reach of the poor,
and there is much suffering, especially
among the families of conscripted soldiers.
And what will it be weeks later or may be
only days hence-when the advancing horde
comes marching in! In spite of Herculean
efforts to crush the rebellion, President
Balmaceda is rapidly losing ground; and as
the Insurgents gain boldness with each vic
IOEY. IUGlE udluTdl CGUSltA luCItdSeS duu
revolving atrocities become matters of
every day.
Viewed from this altitude, the streets in
the level portion of the town look insignif-
can't but their vast array Of red-tiled roofs
makes pleasing picture. The houses are
mostly three-stored. with thick walls plast
cred TO represent stone.
MR.. sPANGLER, A RECENT MISSIONARY,
TEACHER
from Kansas, declares that their stiff.
straight-up-and-d lines are SO out OF
harmony with the gracious landscape that
they suggest TO him cold, damp and cramp-
collie, and such homogeneous things as an
undertaken at a picnic, and corpse at
wedding. But Spanish-American archi
lecture, though different from anything
found at the north, has its beauties and al
vantages. Among the latter may be men
toned the important fact that the houses
are hard to burn. The roofs of eartheI
tiles. embedded 10 dried mud, are extremely
picturesque, especially in these moist sec
lions, where their dull-red surface soor
takes on a coating of moss and iichens
Should a fire originate in the rafterS or in
the boards and sneeting beneath, 1t would
go out of its own accord after they were
burned away, because the heavy mud GOV
ering, falling in would efectuaily smother
the conflagration.
By the way, one of the institutions Of
Chill most conspicuous for its oddity is the
fire department. All natives are compelled
oy law
TO SERVE AS BoMBERos (FIRE- MEM,
or in the militia; and as most of the swell
young men prefer the former, the fire com
panies resemble clups, or similar social or
CARNATIONS, and are cliqued according to tht
strictest rules Of caste. Ii is intensely
funny 10 see the bomberos out on drill
which is made the occasion for a stunnins
display of their smart uniforms of whit
linen and gittering nlckel-plated helmets
and funnier still to see them at hre-eX
cept for those whose property is being de-
stroyed. The gorgeous bomberos were
never known 10 put out q fire. but their eff
forts when they condescend to make any
are merely directed to checking its spread
by deluging adjacent houses, thereby gen
orally accomplishing quite as much damage
by water as is done by fire. 1t is not un
common for some nearby merchant, who's,
stock in trade would be hopelessly rpinet
if the tiremen were allowed their own reck
less way, to pay sums of money to TIT
chiefs of the companies to induce them t.
turn the hose in another direction: or fail
ing in that,
TO LOCK DOORS AND WINDOWS
and stand in front with drawn revolvers
TO keep the destructive bomberos at bay
The alarm system is so arranged, by tn
ringing of bells, that those who UNDERSTAND
IL can Instantly locate the scene of disaster
Occasionally the bomberos succeed in get
ting there engine and all, before buildin
is quite consumed. They mostly ride up il
carriages. and repair to the balconies o
neighboring houses, where they watch tn
burning as if it were spectacular shov
gotten UP for their benefit. 1t is the court
eous custom of the neighbors aforesaid t
far dicf t,5c1o