Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-17

change, but Ii Is generally understood that
each season must bring with it some modifi-
cation of fashion. The sheath skirt or
fourreau and thc panier have provided US
with text for a series of very becoming
gowns, both simple and dressy. The sever
ity of the fourreau is broken bv the addi-
tion of a sort Of oTerdress that falls in folds
over the front of the skirt and in narrow
train behind, while it leaves the sides un-
covered. This overd3ess has a low bodice
supplemented by a high one with long
sleeves of the same material rs the sheath,
and the sides Of this bodice-eonfned at
the waist by "a belt-a frill that falls over
the hips, playing the same part as the
panieT.
We ring the changes al infnitum. This,
in one instance the fourTeau, high bodice,
and sleeves will be Of yellow, striped hori-
zontally with deep blue rib, and the over
dress Of dark blue Bengaline. Or, the en-
tire toilette may be composed of pearl gray
crepon, the sheath skirt and sleeves ruled
with lines Of narrow silver braid. Again,
the foundation may be silk or brocade and
the upper strata black lace.
IN other models, the arrangement Of the
skirt Is maintained, whereas the bodice sug-
geSts Figaro vest, the outlines of which
are penciled in metallic braid While for
dinner and evening dresses designed for
home wear, which, although low in the
neck, have something of the tea-gown about
them, the same effect is produced with deli
cate-hued China Grape, which forms a sort of
tunic, draped becomingly from the shoul-
ders and confined at the waist like a Greek
robe, so as TO fall in elegant folds back and
front, leaving the sides plain and statuesque.
Crepons of all kinds are very popular this
season, and the French lawns provide me
with an inexhaustible variety Of simple pat
terms and exquisite colors; on the one hand
pale gray, heiiotrope, lilacS and dull pinks:
on the other dark blues, bright yellows and
reds of brilliant dye. The supply of thin
silks is equally varied. These / find par
ticularly suitable for an empire style of
gown. Here is delicate Indian silk of an
azalia tone, spotted with black, made up
into round full skirt, bordered with bands
of black lace insertion, ruching of silk,
and full baby bodice. A dress somewhat
similar is reproduced in a new style of silk
that has the shine of satin, the sofiness of
faille and the Eghtness Of foulard. 1t emu
lates the hue of the poppy and is studded
with small white stars. Nine Recamier
may have sported such frock. Nor is taft
etas omitted from our fashionable list
Crisp white tatfeias checked with black
satin, makes up charmingly in the form of a
round skirt and bodice, almost without
seams, exhibiting the figure to its full per-
fection, thanks to a gathered frill falling
below the waistband.
The fair reader will not be content if do
not add few words about their outer gar
ments. As a smart mantle, let me recon-
mend a cuirass of shot pigeon breast silk
richly worked with jet, furnished with full
hanging sleeves of chantilly and deep
basques of the same black lace. Capes or
nantes, as we cali them, borrowing name
from the vocabulary of the last century
in the same glace silk and entirely devoid
of trimming, provide natty coverings (fresh
and springlike) for youthful shoulders. For
the opera there are few more handsome
wraps than half-lOng mantle in nasturtium
colored plush weighted by rosaces set with
topazes, and falling in heavy folds from the
Medici collar within which-softly nesting
against the throat-lies an amber-hued boa
Of ostrich feathers. Less ornate, but perhaps
more elegant, is another model Just long