New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-11-01
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. IN SUMMER
A VACATION ON THE ST. JOHN RIVER.

| Fredericton n. B., Oct. 5--FrOm st. John. down
at the mouth OF the river OF the same name, where
from its hills the city looks the Bay of Fundy
to the gray cliffs and the steelcoored bluffs OF Nova
Scotia, up to the pretty Fredericton, there In
summer scattered Americans who have matc peaceful
nvasions of this Canadian Province. But New Bruins
wick's autumn with its crisp air and its keen byeezes.
comes early and when the sun, with the arrival OF
october, takes shorter course by day. and at even
Ing leaves a cold grayncss over the hills and valleys
and featery clouds Of dampness floating on the wafer
the American visitor shivers in his winter clothes and
starts for the south And this reminds one who has
enjoyed the quid attractions and the pleasant sim
pcty which are 50 jeaOusly guarded by the Canadians
that Americans who spend their summers or parts OF
| them beyond the border line OF the States arc
either extremely selfish or Indifferent as 10 their
| countrymen's enjoyment. 1t is deemed worthy Of
mention by the writer that while the number OF Amer
lean visitors to New brunswick In summer Is rot in
considerable. little Is known generally In the United
| states about this country.
| II is not difficult to have the summer vacation
marches Of the last quarter of century. They have
| been along the Atlantic coast-from Fortress Monroe
to the beaches OF New-Jersey, to Newport TO Massa
| chusetts bays and harbors, to the lower part Of
Maine to Mount Desert Island and further East until
| one reaches Canada. And now IL one can show how
| a man woman whole family may spend
pleasant summer vacation at small expense, lie may
receive the thanks of some NewYork Philadelphia
man next summer, when in his own city the mercury
is leaping toward the top OF the thermometer. the
Is blazing fercey. the sidewalks blind one with their
| burning glare, and the air Is STILL hot and sitting
while he In Canadian province Is breathing clear
aerial elixir catching the fannngs OF cooling brcezes
and is quietly enjoying life with a boat q rod
| gum
| There ample opportunities along the Bay of
Fundy for every one who wants what the Canadians
have to give; but 1t must not be forgotten that the
chief attractions a lazy comfort, quiet surround
ings. climate that makes womens faces handsome
with beautiful rose-touched compilations and that
teaches men TO detest rooms. elaborate dinners
| and conventional entertainments. There silver
toned lakes, rolling highlands and rich fields. salt
odors in the air, freshness from unprofaned
woods all the beauties and inspiring
joyments Of free outdoor le-and that is all III that
| is not enough
But if you elect to spend three weeks on the st.
| John River let what you can do and tfor
| this is no mean consideration at what price.
Down to the shores Of the st. John River farm
lands stretching from the uplands where every foot
Of ground wooded Near the broad and picturesque
stream the quiet hamlet or the single farmhouses
with their barns and sheds. II you make the effort
| you will not find it difficult TO get board at almost
point along the river. The Canadian farmers are
fairly prosperous and have comfortable homes, but
| there is not an abundance OF ready money and
| American coin is particularly welcome
Where the river, after trailing among highlands
through wooded banks in generous foliage and bits OF
fields, makes sweeping curve and the land runs
back first on a grassy plain, then on a
gentle ascent covered with wheat, and then
sharply up into forests, the writer found
a big farm house this summer which held thoroughly
American colony. There were two young women self
supporting evidently, from Philadelphia mother and
daughter from Washington; family from Chicago,
and three four young from other parts of the
United States. Ii delightfully."- quiet place. The
farm house, with its broad veranda always cool.
Iammocks were hung under the trees: there was a
tennis court for those who wanted it, and there were
grounds for the sedae and less exciting game Of
croauet. A hundred yards from the veranda the
river bringing the rising tide seaar from the Bay
Of Fundy and on the ebb hllIbreeze from the interior
of the province. Between the skirting willows and
the freshoolng foliage of the river bank and the farm
house lay unmarked green sward, and morning and
evening the smoke curled peacefully above the trees
By the river where Indian basketmalers had their
camp. Back of the house the grassy surface ran
gradually into grain fields which nodded from sunrise
till evening In the soft wind.
When you climbed the reefringed hills further up |
and pressed through their cool shadows you came upon
chain little lakes which under high sun were like
quicksilver dashed In among green leaves AT even |
ing still up here that stone thrown ont upon
the water spashed sharply and sent back
clear sound that almost echoed on the wall |
Of woods where the forest stood up sQuarely. The
branches of the trees quiet evening did not wave
and there was no birds note calling in the shadows.
There was royal sport for fishermen, in the lakes |
and the steamng trout served at your farmers sup
per hey call it tea) had been whipped out shining
and dazzling that day from the sparkling lakes. In
the highlands there good bird shooting. and there |
we're deer for those who did not respect the game |
laws for at that time 1t the close The |
farmer invited his male guests 10 Steiner sport in the
pursuit OF q bear which three nights before had como
down and made light veal supper Of eah-chicken
salad so speak rrcverent city youth suggested.
Every one regretted In loud voice that he had for
gotten to bring rife, though there shotgms
in plenty. When the Washington girl announced that
most Of the farmhands had rifles, the conversation
threatened to become annoying, and to this day. so
far as is known, the slaughter Of the calf is I'M
avenged.
There is q steamer TO st. John, and in the
other direction to Fredericton, every day, and
the river sail is delightful. An American artist
Joined the colony late lii the summer, to get his
autumn tints and the rich evening glow on the river
foliage. His sketching extended late into the season,
SO strong the charm of the unrufiied river, the
placid atmosphere and the tranquil backgrounds in
over 900 Of IT. supplied the table with delicious
sether cost s5 week at this farm hotel for the
owner would call 1t hotel Here is generous
steamer fare to st. John and return from York,
including stat.room and meals; ga three weeks
River 81 incidentals $40 there is nttle chance to
spend money in"identalsl total. $50. This gives
hour stays Bar Harbor ard PASSPORT Ne. Is 1t not
} cheap vacation
,f th. farmhouse where the woods begin to thcken
Kindly Aa csn.d s" a s'; vide % and
ng valley runs the st. John kiver. There
are black patches II where logfafts float and dark
shades OF blue where the stream rejects the shadows
,f trees But elsewhere the waters surface CLEANS
brightly clear and sparkling above light blue where
he river flows deep. The Islands ara gayly green.
rhe fields are more deep IN tone, and the treetops1
iarken the follows them afar. where there Is |
nothing but rising land and where every hilltop and
ddge Is dense with forest growth. The houses shine
white am ne the bra inches OF trees the grass
plains The sky Is pale almost to grayness the
richness and lveness Of color below It's sweeping |
- ---tll