The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-19
A NOVEL WAR CRY.
Partisan Walters Demand Per.
mission to Wear Mustaches.
A Question That Agitates Employers and En-
ployes- Something About the Noted Eat
ing-Houses Of the French Metropolis
sIecial TO THE MORNING CtLL

AaUOr Exchange, ana I0uF OF uVt Huu-
dred walters have explained the reasons
why they must be allowed the privilege of
wearing the mustache. To these meetings
are invited the proprietors of restaurants
and cafes, but, with few exceptions, they
do not think best to attend. One only, NJ.
Catelain- Champeaux, proprietor of the great
restaurant Place de la Bourse, had the cour-
age to make a speech. He became very elo-
quent and excited intense enthusiasm among
his hearers.
"Do not believe" said NJ Catelain, that
the Partisan public is tile enemy of the
mustache. 1t is too sensible to oppose re-
form that can harm no one. At this time,
when socialistic principles take their seat at
the tables of Kings and EmperOrs, would it
not be wise to heed the desires of the labor
ing classesP Let us do it with energy; let
US do 1t with generosity; let us do II with
justice"
THE QUESTION WILL BE DEFINITELY
SETTLED
This week, and after all, what difference
does it make whether restaurant walters
have mustaches, imperials. full boards or
side whskers? Fashion shaved the mus
tache and fashion will allow it to grow
again. En- PEASANT. may say that General
4'OuIbu6CI OMtu III ms pOphiuANs W
the fact that be allowed officers and soldiers
to cultivate beard or mustache. Very few
Of the French officers. however, availed
themselves of tie privilege given by the
BRAY General.
In 1870 was born the first Partisan restau-
rant. Its home was in the PalaiS Royal, and
Lamy its proprietor. Before only cabarets
or taverns were known, and since then won
derful has been the progress. In $780, In
the Boulevard Saint Martin, was Restau-
rant Quincy; the Rue Richelieu possessed
Lemardeley and Lointier; the Place de la
Bourse, Gobillard and Champeaux; the Rue
Caumartin, Rousseau; the Passage des PIANO.
ramas. VeIGn; the Passage Nivienne, Grlg-
non; the Boulevard des ltaiens, Gale
Hardy, Cafe Nicolle and Cafe Richie; the
Palais Royal owned Velour, Very, Cafe
Corazza and Cafe du Perigord; the Rue du
Bac, the Cafe d'Orsay; the Rue Neuve
Saint Eustache, Brebant, aud the Porte
Maillot, Gillet.
IN THE PLACE OF THESE
To-day we have AIaiSon Doree, Cafe Du-
rand, Cafe Angais, BignOn. Voisin, Leds-
yen. Marguely, and the restaurant OF Jo-
seph, Mr.. Vanderbilts famous cook.
The Maison Doree is at the corner OF the
Rue Laffite and the Boulevard des ltaliens.
II was opened by NJ. Ernest Verdier, who is
now succeeded by his sen. Never has an
article Of ordinary quality been allowed to
enter the kitchen Of the Maison Doree, and
fish at the Naison Doree one does not know
the meaning of the word fish. The butter
used in cooking costs so cents pound, aud
the truttles, poultry. vegetables, etc., are the
best that can be found.
There are two wine-cellars. One Is near
the kitchen, and here are the wines and
liquors that require warm temperature
rum. kirsch. Spanish wines and some Bor-
deauX brands.
A few doors away. at y Rue Laffitte, is
cellar with perhaps 100000 bottles of Bor-
deaux Burgundy. Champagne, Lacryma-
Christi, Palermo, Capri, Constance, etc.
The Cafe Durand in Place de la Madeline
was at the zenith of its splendor when
GENERAL BoULANGER
Chose itepriyate dinlng-rooms for the din
uers given by him at the time OF his election.
The wine cellar is valued at 100000. There
is Champagne Of 1916, Chateau Yquem OF
1917, Chateau Laffitte Of 1851, este dor of
1858. Romance Cont of 1865. Rhine wines
Of 1909 and COlli0ures Of 1910
The Cafe Anglais was bought il 1856 by
Monsieur Delhomme, but it now belongs to
en- English company. The wine cellar is
like drawilg-room, with iron grapevines
and enameled grapes covering the arcades
and in the center large orange tree. The
proprietors care but little for Burgundy
wines, consequently the cellar is noted for
its rich collection of Bordeaux brands.
Voisin is in the Rue Saint Honore, and
here may be seen every day celebrities from
all parts of the wOrld-Russian Grand
Dukes, German Princes aud American
milliOnareS
It is not strange that we should be charged
exorbitant prices in these grand restau-
rants for the expenses are enormous. Be-
fore the proprietor has bought pound Of
butter, each day, his expenses are 800 or 900
francs.
THE RENT
Is high, the taxes higher; there is heating
on1 LIGHTING laundry Wnrg and rannVnl n
linen. Then there Is the chief cook, with
his assistants, the buyer Of provisions, those
who prepare fowl ana fish, the rOtisseur
and his aids. the silver burnisher. cutler,
marmitons, coopers. buffers and all these to
be paid.
Tie Cafe Bignon in Avenue de POpera is
the most Partisan Of all Paris restaurants,
but recently it was bought by NJ. Sapln, who
made name at the exhibition of 1889.
Bignon was king among reslaurateurs
Rue de la Chaussee d'Autin, nov known as
Pailard's Restaurant. Every day at the
Cafe Foy were seen celebrities. and for
them were reserved special tables There
was the famous Duke de Gramont- Cnde-
rOusse. Prince DemidCff, Count LIE Hon,
Belgian ambassador. and the Prince OF
Orange. During the siege, it is said, was
here found the last piece of white bread in
all Paris, and when everything else had
failed Bigron could furnish chocolate. For
u nOIllll, tHOCOldlt WAS stINtu, pIcDdTtu Ill
every possible style. In 1878 Bignon re-
NOV TO the Avenue de POpera, but lie
kept many of his old clients,
THE MOST FAMOUS
Alive to-day is Aurelien Scholl, the jour-
nalist Bignon himself is wealthy; he owns
town house, country villa and castle; his
daughters are married and his son has
passed examinations in law. 1t is not
strange that he desires a more quiet exist
ence.
BiGnon had an elder brother who gave
the Cafe Richie its reputation for perfect
service and wonderful taste in arrangement.
The Cafe Rtche is ut the corner of the
Boulevard des Italiens and the Rue lie PelIe-
tier but before the time of Bignon the
elder it was known as an economical En-
glish restaurant. He remodeled the build
ing completely. built marble staircase and
bronze baluStrade, and decorated with Per
sian hangings. The private dining-rooms
are wonderful specimens of luxury, for one
sees Aubuss0n carpets, Boule furniture,
bronZes, panels Of onyx and magnificent
silver. The kitchen also Is arranged like
the ancient Roman kitchens. The earth
was dug for about two feet in depth, then a
layer of crushed brick was applied, another
Of powdered coal, then thick mixture of
sand, lime and hot ashes. The whole was
polished with pumice stone. and the result
was a Shining black pavement, always
drained aud always dry.
Once told an acquaintance of mine that in
order to become restaurant proprietor of
the first rank one must have versatile
talent. One must be fisherman, hunter.
cattle-raiser, butcher, farmer, physician,
grocer, florist. pastry-cook, baker, architect,
decorator, physiognomist and financer.
His criticism Of different nationalities with
reference 10 eating and drinking is not I'M
interesting The American spends law
ishly, wastes, eats without drinking and
drinks excessively when he has finished
eating. He even asks for nuts, to excite
thirst, after he has consumed an elaborate
dessert. The Italian has likes and dislikes,
but he can always be pleased by paying at
tentiOn to his whims. The Spaniard wishes
everything simple but expensive. and the
Engllshnan always considers hmsef
cheated. The Russian eats and drinks what
is best and most costly, but the Partisan
alone really appreciates what's served him..
BARONESS ALIHEA SALVADOR.