The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1891-03-04
NLW YORK PAt HONS.
Spring woolsus-C Combinations and ColOrS.'
Millinery.

dnEkuk NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. A0S SS-~sN
Millinery.
Social Correspondence Of the IHteliceaeer.
NEW York, March 2.-Now spring
woolers are a world in themselves.
Fancy brown and gray sRow.lakes fall
ing alternately on a dark.hued surface
until well covered, and correct idea
may be formed OF the groundwork Of a
large proportion OF high grade materi:
als. The outlines OF plaids appear and
disappear on this NOISY surface, or a
herring bone stripe in crimson may be
Just perceptible; diagonal stripe from
each aide Of the width meeting In the
centre, may cross horizontalstripe; q
result which does not produce any sense
Of confusion, as the colors are soft
and harmonious. Another fashionable
fabric ia in plain cancels hair, with
large fleecy, round and oval figures
ia various sizes and colors, at
glance these spots (about the size OF q
silver half dollar appear TO be patches
OF white cotton, the hairs are so long
and SO closely stuck together, but on ex:
animation they prove to DO punches Of
soft, fleecy cancels hair, from one inch
to six in length and OF great variety as
regards size and color. This class OF
matefial Is very expensive, beginning OF
50 so and trimming up to 50 per yard:
The same style OF cRmel's hair surface
dotted over with figures in "AstrnkhGn
finish" is quite as stylish rs the deecy
fabrics, and here the furore for oval
shaped designs finds full opportunity
for display. From figure the sizs OF a
blue BIRDS egg, TO one five inches in
length, they stand out singly in con-
trasting color, or when small are in Clns'
tiers OF three, two Of one color and the
third of another. Squares OF different
colors touching each other on plain
surface is another stylish idea; as tor
example, tan brown and dark blue
squares on light gray surface.
COMBINATIONS
will exist SO long as designs in dress mn.
terials are conspicuous. 1nalt the latest
costumes from the dressmaking depart
ment of the popular and elegant estab.
lishment Of Lord & Taylor, plain material
Is always seen in combination, where
the pattern is at all pronounced. Even
plaids on the bias occasionally have the
waist OF plain goods, which has not been
the case heretofore, and in tleecy, tufted
fabric, the front breadth, sleeves and a
small part Of the coraage is Of the rough
material and the remainder plain. When
the goods employed ia "a suiting," hand.
some buttons are often the only trim
ming, or dark velvet, or silk cuffs, collar
and vest, "tone up" the costume and
give the requisite contrast. Grays aud
browns lead in colors, and the number
Of different shades in these hues Is aston.
ishinr; the variety produced by their
with white, black, Grim.
son and tan brown as accessories being
endless. Yellow in three shades Is ex.
ceedingly popular, and many very hand
some rough materials are striped or shot
with yellow. There ia a strong and in
creaging demand for yellow and navy
blue, and striking plaids are brough BIT out
10 these two colors, single stripe OF
cleopatra yellow" forming the squares.
Heliotrope remains in favor both for
millinery and dress goods, while black
and gold have lost nothing in prestige.
"Cornflower blue" is the new color OF
the season and will combine Charmingly
with all the fashionable shades.
IN MILLINERY
touues and round hats in light shades
with fiaring fronts will lend in styles.
Lace straw predominates largely,
althnuoh chin. Milan braid and split
straw are atill seen. The crowns OF
round hats differ a good deal as to
height, and one shape, THE Cinderella"
has no crown at all, the scalIoped bIim
reaching quite to the back. a striking
novelty is silk gauzs scarfs, in all colors,
about two yards long and from twelve to
twenty.one inches in width, striped on
the edges and tufted with patches OF
''ostrich flue" to match the dress ma
terials now so fashionable. These Rcarts
are twisted around the crowns OF lace
straw hats lends flowing at the back)
the silken folds kept in place by gilt
serpents over a foot in length, or by
flowers, as fancy may dictate. A hat
with moderately Earring font
made entirely Of rose. stems, buds and
thorns included, with fiat bunch Of
roscs for crown, is beautiful novelty
for very young girls. The stems are OF
rubber, wired inside, and are made into
a SOFT Of lattipe.york which retains its
shape perfectly. Crimson or pink rose
buds fall from the crown over this stem
net work, and a gigantic chrysRnthe.
mum often constitutes the crown.
Toques come also into this stem work,
with crowns Of angie flower. Velvet
flowers are exceedingly stylish, especial
ly violets, popular tendency, however,
is in favor OF those on the mammoth
order. Gilt toques and capshaped capo-
tes in siuulations Of lace straw are
charming and need but few small
flowers and loops Of gilt ribbon by way
of trimming. The rage for gilt in mil
linery increases as the season advances
and new ribbons are not only heavily
brocaded In gilt and silver, but are
woven OF tinsel throughout.
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