Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1891-09-18
A QUEER TAILOR BOOK.
SCHEDULE BY WHICH TAlLORS MAKE
AND PAY FOR CLOTHES.

It Is Called the Log and 1t Specifies
Each and Every Process in the Con-
struction of a Garment of Mems or
Women's Wear-Excerpts from Several.
The '"Tailor's Log is printed only for
private circulation. Its authors are men,
bers of the Amalgamated Society of Tailors.
The great majority of journeymen ~tailors,
it should be noted, are allowed a certain
number of hours for the making up of a
garment, and are paid, in good shops, at
the rate of sevenpence an hour. This is the
key to the system upon which the log is
arranged. According to the time stipu-
lated for the making up of each garment,
SO is the workman to be paid.
The work under consideration is gener-
ally alluded to as 1.-THE Log" but, as a
matter of fact, it consists of several logs.
There is. among others, a coat log, a trou-
sers log, a vest log, a machine log, and also
a log for ladies' riding habits and other
tailor made clothing. But it would be I'M
generous to expose the secrets that under
lie the manufacture of these more ex-
quisite garments. To disclose the mys-
teries of the riding habit log would show a
wan of chivalry. With it's revelations of
padding and pinching it might disenchant
us Of that most charming sight-a lovely
woman N horseback in the Row.
Nobody will be angry with us, perhaps,
if we dive into the mysteries of the 'frock
coat log" except the gentleman who occa-
s~ionally advertises in the matrimonial
papers his possession of mice square Shout
ders." Such shoulders are often made to
order. When made of haircloth or extra
oo-vor tI>o 4l,rr., 49, Lo,,-
for them-that is, if they do not exceed
coed that measurement, or part of it.
For padding or wadding basted on can
vas in shoulder" the log specifies half an
hour extra, with one hour for "~wadding
flash basted through sides" and two hours
for shoulders built with from two to three
piles of wadding, canvas or cloth"
An ordinary coat that does not conceal
inequalities of the figure can be made upin
thirty-five and one-half hours. Yet any
one putting on a coat Of this simple manu-
facture would be surprised to hear the mys-
FERROUS processes that are involved in the
manufacture of it.. Here are some of them,
with the time to each, all duly set down in
the coat log:
Putting in thread marks and fitting up,
one hour; scanning sidebody, one-half hour;
waists, t~hree-quarters of an hour; lapels,
~three-quarters of an hour; scanning side
seams, three-quarters of an hour; making
up plaits, including hip stay, one hour; first
press, three-quarters of an hour; plait pock-
cts, one hour; bastingi in canvas and button
stay, one hour"
But there are many other things to be
done with a stylishly made garment of this
kind to suit the fastidious, and the log pro-
vides for seven distinct ''cuts and puffs,"
for twelve special kinds of edges, ten sorts
of seams, five different pockets, eight de-
tails regarding sleeves, twenty-five peculiar
facings, twenty-siX sundries and ten bast-
ings, making a total of something like 146
items that may be called into play in the
making up a superior frock or dress coat.
A we'll cut morning or shooting coat goes
through at least twenty-five processes,
which take twenty-seven and a half hours,
without mentioning extras, of which there
are five. Then there are charges for edges,
seams, gun patches and b~asting that are
distinct enough and yet bewildering in
their number.
Lounge jackets do not seem to give quite
so much trouble, and allow us breathing
time to count up twenty-five hours as abb
sorbed in the making. with seventeen items
LOT eALTdS, SeaWS duu DaSCluS.
COAT AND JACKET LOGS"
The inner jacket seems at first sight a
mean sort of garment that gives merely the
trouble of a couple of hours to make up,
but we catch sight Of an ominous line
which says, "all other extras same as frock
or dress" The Chesterfield or ulster seems
to absorb time as freely as it does rain.
There are twenty processes to begin with
uhioh toka tyvaptU.nipo ho1rc op1 fboro 10
a light selection of about fifty-nine extras,
not to speak of "other extras as per lounge
and frock coats" and BLASTING as per
morning coat" with six hours more for the
new shape.
Covert coats start off with as many proc
esses as Chesterfields, and there are plenty
in the hunt coat and the Elton jacket to dis
tract the student of the log. Jeames' gar
ments and capes, the postillion's jacket.
and also the jacket of the boy in buttons,
are no less varied than the rest.
The trousers log shows al different proc
esses, and is simply, in the language of
MI. Richard Swiveller, IAN unmitigated
~staggerer." The log was framed for gen
eral adoption throughout the trade.
The log deals with breeches, pantaloons
and knickerbocker breeches; with leggings,
CATERS and spats, and there ure special
logs devoted to repairs and to leggings.
which are instructive and interesting.
Nothing is missed by our comprehensive
compilers, not even a bishops CATERS. A
"start" of eleven hours is allowed for these
somber ~adornments, and one hour for
tongues" Three hours are set down for
the making of anklets with three holes.
"All other extras are charged same rs leg
gings,'" for which eleven hours are re-
quired.
"Pantaloons start same as breeches."
SEVERAL KINDS OF LOGS"
There is a special knickerbocker log, and
particulars for ALTERATION of knickerbocker
breeches." 1t is a proper tribute of respect
to masters that servants breeches or pan.
falcons start one hour less than gentle
mems"
There is an extra "Breeches and Brooches
Alteration Log" and "Knickerbocker AL
t~eration Log" and particulars relating to
'overalls," cotton or flannel drawers"
'long kneecaps, center overalls. or mud
boots" and short kneecaps."
Eight and a half hours are set down in
the "Vest Log" for an ordinary waistcoat,
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