davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1891-05-17
THE CHAPERON.
Not Approved or by Ono Mau-The Basis
of His GrOwL

Not Approved or by One Mnn-Tho Basis
of His GrOwL.
"Icsn't understand why the American girl
doesnt make a new declaration OF indepen-
dence against the chaperon importation" said
a man the other day. why. 1t is an outrage
to the sense and spirit OF the girl and direct
insult to the decency OF the American man.
And the way it is all managed is 80 deuced in
consistent, don't you know2 Tell you my ex-
perisnce2 l was calling on young lady-not
30 awfully young, ethor-one night. when q
frend Of both came in and invited US infor-
mally to spend the following evening with her.
! offered myself as escort to the young lady
and my ofIer was accepted. but imagine my
state Of mind when q maid appeared In cap
and coat to take the girl to the friends home.
/ mildly suggested that would escort her
and she sweetly acquiesced. but all the
same that vinegar-faced menial followed on.
And 80 We walked through the clear twilight
OF an early June evening" with tho maid about
three steps in the rear. through the quiet
streets OF the little city where she lived to her
friends house, about three blocks distant A
six-year-old girl could have gone alone over
the same Journey with no fear Of harm. How
started for home, and offered her my yta com. M
pany she very, decidedly, declined. on the
her. aud walked OIL with-the blacklist, biggest
niger out Of the cotton aeias. Well. now. if,a
decent whlte man; IN Rood regular standing In
society. and neither cutthroat nor rascal.
tsn't about as good an escort for u girl us u
bluck butler, then We might as well all black
our faces and get on the buttons.
that internal maid. and have q chance to say
a word to her without the whole family and
family servants listening, and the other day
her younger sister. who is here on visit,
wanted to 10 down town for a book she wished
to read. She couldn't 90. OF course, my wife
insisted. without o chaperon, and as tho
maid was out The girl sat down and pouted.
But Iust then little Mrs. Blank came whiIzing
ioudest little Bonnet and a French gown $50 SO
striking that queen OF the demi- monde
wouldn't be- seen in IT, she Is the daringest,
while she Is in no sense u disreputable woman.
wouldn't allow young sister OF mine to go
across the street with her. But she promised
10 take Dorothy down TO tho shop and chape-
ron her home again, so the poor girl was al
Sl,sn she CrousSl II haek. and. by jovo. I'm
The sun., 1891-05-17
ATHLETIC WOMANHOOD.
Arc tho Girls Outstrippine tho Boys In the
Perfection OF Physical Deveiopments

Are tho Girls Outstrip ping the Boys In the
Perfection OF Ph ysical Deveiopments
Tho athletic girl may outstrip her brother in
time. though she has both inheritance and
tradition to oppose her. Every one is noticing
how tall our girls are growing. and some one
has said that the men seem to be growing
shorter in the same ratio as the girls grow
taller. and attribute the difference to the
fact that boys smoke and girls do not DR..
White OF the Berkeley Schools is strong be-
lever In the theory that nicotine retards tho
growth OF boys, as has been proven by oxperi-
ments that 1t does Of dogs and kittens. Girls
OF to-day are taller. stronger, and In every way
more perfectly developed physically than tho
girls OF the past decade. Athletics in some
form enter into the course OF almost oil schools
and all colleges and women manifest much
enthusiasm in athletic work.
The Woman's Club OF the Berkeley Lyceum
has long waiting list and the beautiful club
house is crowded every day with womenseek-
down vanity as the inspiring cause for All this
delight In healthtul rscreaton: and though
lions. why Is the vanity Of Women for pretty
faces aud symmetrical figures more to be con;
shoulders and sinewy limbs particularly when
both kinds of beauty DEPEND upon physical
heath For physical heath is ever the grand
and OF the great cardinal virtues: patience.
pleasantness and peacefnlness. 1t Is amusing
to see Mt tho races. IN tho theatres. or on the
avenue q splendid specimen Of physical girl
hood attended by o slim. .punny snip OF an
escort, as one SO frequently sees now, and
though 1t must be admitted that she is the ex-
ceptional girl, and he the unusual man. still 1t
is prophetic OF the future.
A man says that you cant tell whether girl
is physically developed or dressmakerly filled
ont. when she has her gown on, and perhaps
there Is u grain OF truth in his idea. but the
padding in ono coat would be more than suf-
ncient for all the gowns girl would have In
The weakest looking specimens Of the mas
cuiine race are the college boys not included
in athletic classes. and one reason for this Ia
the severe mental discipline to which thoy are
subjected during the growing period Girls
are students as well. but they are rarely bur
better cared for physsically. both at homo and
tional girl. with strong intellect and genius. I.
sent through the colleges where serious and
sustained mental effort is required.
But women lack the sustained endur-
ance OF men. and the oxarting demands OF
modern living tell on them as the years pass.
aud at forty or lfty Ave men are much finer
specimens Of physical attractiveness than wo-
men OF the same age. though much thought and
study Is given by women now 70 the preserya-
tiOn OF their youthful beauty with marked re-
suits The improvement In physical woman
hood has been great In the last fye or ten
years and 1t 10 the moro noticeable TO see
straight, supple. strong women Of Rrecoful'
pronorions In fashionable society than to rec
The sun., 1891-05-17

with silver nsur dc liz: her colorless silk sun
shade on Xhs ss is
sf VIZ eis S
iily T isssies have also anns nsxed Certain precious
stones that they are affecting exclusively this
rse With the '1ss star sapphso. e milky s OPAL and
paleimoonstone as easy favorttes.
A sensible man wise in his generation and
beyond his kind has admitted that the only
way for man to save money Is to give It all to
his wife and let her manage 1t for him. Wo-
men-and whom one says women he does not
mean butterIlies;1,ha q horror Of debt, and
%ed 1 Es
ther that he has since hs made his wife III mas
but ssEsEyf 4 On
10 eRe t9Ss a 1 ss9 9e
shi
II Fitted hs snnx MSo h
Ibsen has an admirer. in Sarah Bernhardt
who possesses his complete works In French
Design @ Of her nsGs own orderins. She admits that
she would rather read 1bsen's plays then see
them on the stage.
,Mstilds', h',1A Aston yo%ng lsdy Of II com.
@ Gnisersity. % Anna ma Ghamberiain. also bind has
been trained as q masseuse. and Is meeting
prefer her sensitive touch, and are not at all
opposed to masseuss who cannot see.
White silks. lawns, laces and hannels. white
shoes. slippers. stockings. and spatts. white
hats and wells. white gloves and kerchiefs
white fans and parasols. are one and all trium.
phant this summer over colored duplicates, no
matter how ravishinR in tint or becoming In
design tho latter articles may be. A pass6
belle. now wavering ON tho danger line known
az thirty odd. became animatedly indignant
when the fact was mentioned. and insisted
that the whole thing was An underhand bit Of
trickery on the part Of last winters d6butantes
She said: Tho mischievous immature buds
admitted six months since planned this sum-
mer's campaign and mapped it out to the very
PEI sseir 'oS. @Ss sSey 9eszeS the
no use trying. to compete with older beauties
In point Of style. schemine. or attractive man
nas Ssr aSd
while We We're fiirtjnS driving. and monopo.
those @ babyeisesd Se dolls sitting @eekly 6esids
were sure sad and
s tho PRion
bread -and.b miss OF the past winter 10
now chuckling over our discontinue. We
must wear the hideous colorless stuffs or else
confess ourselves routed.
skin as lack OF softening shades. 1t turns us
sallow as lemons. develops wrinkles pales tho
the color from ones eyes. Think Of It: When
those vulgarly rosy checked chits are dazzling
IN white outfits and frolicking. under green
comparison with their .callow youth or else
fall back on hot. old.fashioned reds. browns.
blues, and the like. 1t is maddeninR to con-
template, particularly when we remember
what tickls creatures ,, We are depending on for
with silly pink-and- white dimpe. and II
man is in the question what possible chance
The sun., 1891-05-17
1Hr NEWEST WRINKLE ZOE THE HAIR
Dainty Nets Made OF Threads or Gold Now
C0nAne tho Tresses.

Dainty Nets Made OF Threads OF Gold Now
ConAne tho Tresses.
Already crowned with the most glorious suits
Of hair seen since tho days OF Godiva, sma art
New York girls are gliding refined gold In de-
visinR such elaborate decorations for their
heads. For dozen years past they have de-
voted close attention and their maids best en-
erRies to growing their abundant looks up to Q
degree OF sickness and sheen that simply de-
fies heightened lustre. But lol no sooner Was
this ideal attained than with the unaccounta-
ble capricousness Of the sex an insistent do
mand was made for some sort OF screen to
shield their new beauty from public gaze.
1T is the rankest absurdity." remarked o
salesman In big jewelry shop last week. but
see here /" and handing out shallow velvet
lined tray, he called attention to the half-dozen
novelties OF the moment. Every woman with
the slightest pretension 20 STYLE" lie contin-
ued. us preparing to cover her shining hair
with S75 not made to order. We are busy as
bees manufacturing the costly trifies that are
eagerly picked up tho instant they appear
on our counters. For instance" and he held
at close range an exquisite mesh Of the 70 finest mes
Minute links Of the precious metnl. delicate.
bs Sy pSshed sod
that twinkle iswe el.like when resting on duskS
locks. black or. brown. 30 admirable Is the
weight and may be enclosed easily in the hand.
These were experimental. the clerk went
larity We will soon bring out many nets OF the
whitest silver. and others again Of gold pow
dered with diamond sparks, small omeralds.
topaz and rubies. Indeed. there are at pres
ent three orders In the house for Mario Stuart
coils of thickly pearled gold mesh to be worn
at grand functions at Newport and Bar Harbor
Here are the jewelled heirpins used for
n 81
t6rouah the cen tie q tie thick wsvy % bang. ION on
oither side above the ears and down nearly to
the The nape Of the neck. whore soft curls oaress
OF courao some. women find this headdress
too trying for adoption. and for them the
great 9oldsmiths have prepared superb fllets
and combs OF original design. The pretty
silver bandalette Of last year Is no longer seen.
its simplicity being surrendered to q preton-
tious gold coronst blazing with gems. and
bearing a suspicious likeness to dladsms worn
BY countesses on the other side OF tho Atlantic.
Among women Of quietsr tastes gorgeous gold
Of the head lend very splendid effect to full
dress toilets. In unique and fanciful shapes OF
shells. shields. and imposing arches, the GEN.
tres are filled in with delicate intricate tra-
ceries stimulating fine lace. Others OF Louis XIV.
period conflne The rich coils and braids With
bouquets OF gold roses mounted on shell
pronRs and festooned with polished metsl rib-
bons. Watteau bows and nuttering ENDS.
The sun., 1891-05-17
SIZE HousEknEps OUT, OF TOWN.

eh0pplue IN Drug stores for Eggs, saA
HavinE Other Oda DilenAas.
This fs the season Of restlsssness and un-
reasoning desire for change. This Is the time
OF year whom you put your plano whore your
bookcase was. and the armchair changes
places with the desk. You must turn carpets
or die, repaint or have it, make over your
dresses or 20 mad. II you keep house you
must move. and II don't keep house you
must move. II you are married you think OF
q divorce, and II you aren't you swap admirers
with your best friend. II you have tried the
country for tho winter you decide to get into
the city. and II you have been IN the city all
this time into the country you must 60. The
last is what young wife has done.
I'VE had to sweep the hail stones OF our
front step the first morning" she tells. but
what Of that"
Dear little womani Her house is out Of
town. and she goes into town to market She
was met at the ferry for the last boat she
looked dresdfully Ill
II did my marketing for tomorrow carly
thesIre t@ !. re .remembered hadn't ordered any
Ws had dSo to heys and We have been
Drug storesf"
Yes. eyerythine else is closedl"
their drinks. and Jennie and have had about
thirty sodas. oh. 1t was dreadful Jennie Is
in the ladies' room now. and feel 80 sick.
Housekeeping Is very diflcult."''.
They are having trouble with servants. OF
course. and all their troubles seem to get
mixed up With eggs.
II told the girl 70 drop some for luncheon.
and she looked as II meant on the floor. oh.
too. And they are so impudent l tried to ex:
plain to that one about dropping eggs. told
and mash It q little fiat and then do It like q
griddle cake, and the horrid thing laughed
You ' boil them. ~, OF an snythins they ali fall Ito to
pieces when you try to put them on the plat
ter. / don't sec how they do II in hotels Then
ought to learn . little Of housekeeping before
l marry Tom. but Jennie says ! had botter
marry him before lot him come to dinner. I
make nice Ice cream..but 1t makes mo 30 tired
The sun., 1891-05-17

an increased liking for floral Rarniture on DIG
and little hats the coming season.
"In fact" a milliner said. II sometimes
feel somewhat apprehensive for tho fato OF the
bright. sprightly. dashing summer girl. and Il
wouldn't surprise me Q bit to take up some l1,s
Gust and read the following obituary: Died.
Suddenly. at Mrs. Gran DECAYS garden party.
the charming. creature popuarly Known ~ the
load Of flowers on her own hetln
Glover, liiaos. yiolets. bluebottle; and brtterS;
roses are to be made use Of for edgtnRs. while
the larger varieties will figure ~ garniture
for crown and brtm.
The sun., 1891-05-17
What does Madam
say about it?

The "three ingredient" and the "whites of
eggs" baking powders are advertised in the trade
journals to the grocers as "a fer cent less cost
than Royal This is undoubtedly true. Both
these and alum baking powders do cost to make
much less than the Royal because they are
cheaply and carelessly thrown together from Or
dinary, impure, inferior and low cost ingredients.
But you, madam, are charged the same price
for them as for the absolutely pure Royal, which
is perfectly combined from the most highly refined
and expensive materials. Do you wish to pay
the price of the Royal for an inferior baking
powder, made from impure goods of I'd per cent
less cost? If you buy such goods, insist upon
having this reduction in price.
This "a per cent difference probably accounts
for the fact that some grocers (but they are few
try to palm off these powders upon consumers
who are in the habit of using Royal.
The sun., 1891-05-17

vigorous mon Of flne- physique, because 20
mothers give an Inheritance OF physical beauty
to athletic dsughteIs and they in turn trans. ans
mit it to the RranddauRhters. there Will then
need to be a change in the marriage ceremony
and the :. obeyinen will be incorperated IN the
husbands vow rather than that of the wtfeIs,
unless the soft.hsnded, narrow.should ldered
youth renounce cigarette smoking and deyote
their lordly intelleots to somsthing Ing pesides
The sun., 1891-05-17

four ribbons wound
around wires, two In
black velvet and two in
pink taille. In the frsnt
and back are bows Of
pink faille, with q
bunch Of chrysanthe-
NUNS and heather
The small pink bows
serve to set of tho
black veaver ribbon.
All ipdtoationa DOint to
The sun., 1891-05-17
GOWNS OF ALL AGES.
Henri H. Capes, Marie Stuart
Bonnets, Medici Collars,
ONE WOMAN WEARS THEM ALL 4;
And She May Have a Cleopatra
Girdle On, Too.

Some Gowns Aren't Historical, hut They
Are styli.h-Dinner Gowns ior Summer
-Lsce 10 the Great Trimming Now-It II
observation-disclosures and Tea Gowns
Late Novelties from London.
Many OF the seasons gowns recall the splen-
dors Of Venetian dress in the Middle Ages {:
others. in their elegant simplicity and pic
turesouenese. the clinging robes OF the beau
tiful but iil-fated Citizeness Bonaparte.
Skirts grow trife longer as the summer ap-
proaches. decidedly fuller. and much more
slaborately decorated. Tho rulers OF the des-
tinies OF fashion have ordained and entered
into q conspiracy to maintain that with the
warm days nothing tight shall be worn in the
way OF mantle. nothing ordinary be tolerated
The sun., 1891-05-17
A SUMMER HAT.

0ne Among . Thousand Flowers-h,aden
ConceAts OF the Millinors.
This Is hat with . broad brfm OF plated
and plain straw. Tho crown is made up OF
The sun., 1891-05-17

people are already. tired. The second Illus
tration is another dinner gown worn by one
dinner" 1t !s exceedingly sinple. as tho
.NAsrer was decidedly young. mud It's ma
The sun., 1891-05-17

Anne Of Austria collars Marie Stuart bonnets.
French coats. &C.. is Louis XIII. idea
which differs from the other Louis coats In
that its basque extends only across the back OF
the bodice. and is entirely cut away
in front, to show tho fulled vest OF silk
or waistcoat OF Mario Antoinette brocade
with stock and frill Of rare lace. Most evening
gowns are inspired by Louis XIV. nodes vary
ing in some details. but still decided reminis-
cancas OF lie grande style" Of tho days OF DOW.
The sun., 1891-05-17

in the line Of gowns
The rage for bonnets
and hats OF eccentric
shape and startling
hue seems to have OK
hausted itself. and the
newer head coverings.
n they lose in consplc-
uousness, gain in style
and Rentility. All the
quaint and sumptuous
glory OF ancient mode
is appropriated to make
the summer gown O
creation Of loveliness
that looks as II mortal
hands had never touch
cd 1t. Tho stylish wo-
man is q walking en-
cyclopadia OF historic
suggestion. Tho latest
The sun., 1891-05-17
THE SUN, SUNDAY, MAY II, 1sn.

and now I notice that there are very few mon
In the club window when We take our noon.
day walk on the avenue. Oh. yes. she was the
belle Of the school,"
"A girl who sits uneracefully is q rarity"
said an artist "The sex's poses In chair are
instinctlvsly and unconsciously slightly. Then
why will not girls practise good carriaeef
They spend hours Of prayer and effort over
their bands and their makeup. yet everybody
knows hne figure is the most important
requisite Of all Any face can be rendered Mt
traotive by expression. ANY face for which We
care becomes beautiful to rs. But even love
can only soften dislike to regret over round
shouldered. hollow-chested form. Good car
riags induces a good figure. 1t at least throws
such lines as you have into an adjustment OF
harmony. 1t will mako your dresses At better.
last longer, and look fner while they last, A
head cad well Sarried % SSmes sSSn .d1oo.red 10 oS
silhouette as well as your profile. Hips well
balanced mako your gowns drape gracefully
IN spite Of your dressmaker; Feet that come
down to the ground prettily como near to
being pretty feet Even an ugly hand escapes
s sed sho Issn G %od
spend their time bathing, rubbing. and exer-
cising they would have something to show for
mako themselves hideous over night They
;nsy Use, washes Gans and S t1ns nna
sreases do not efili'h hail wash, Absolute cissniI.
ness-sweet, wholesome, dainty cleanlinese.is
the best and only safe cosmetic In the World.
The sun., 1891-05-17

Vuh W. NV W SohoAesA
designing OF the mode
we'll In anything. and
modes made for the sio
her slender sister, inste
Dinner toilets emplC
satins, Marie Antoinett'
crepe du chine. with !
lars and sleeves, and HI
full Florentine picture
low. yelled with Jetted
Spanish net. are de-
signed for brilliant
brunettes. and are
worthy Of honorable
place among historic
costumes. Many OF the
new gowns. especially
those emanating from
Felix. have waist and
skirt all in one piece
and fasten invisibly in
the back. ornam ented
usually with O corselet
braided or embroid-
cred in rich golden
threads. India silk
gowns, all in one piece.
are made up lightly. to
be worn over q separate
pettiooat OF silk. A
black ground strewn
with lilac figures has
the side forms OF the
full bodice OF lilac coy-
cred with net ending In
coat tabs. and Is sewn
TO the skirt In front
with q cord Of lilac.
Tho skirt has five
The sun., 1891-05-17

cloak. A ian OF black
ostrich feathers and
long chain Of pearls
completed the striking
little toilet which. II
worn by amatron. m light
lack beauty. but Is o
most excellent frame
work for n youthful
neck and shoulders sur
mounted by n fresh
fair face. 1t must never
be forgotten that coats
Hre ever and always tho
favorite dinner dress
design. but So many
times have the various
styles been illustrated.
and SO easy Is il 10
stand on n street corner
and see most delightful
ly their different forms
illustrated ON living fig
ures. that tho fashion
writer must suggest
ideas for something be-
sides the stately coat
hndina of whigh many
The sun., 1891-05-17

ueon IOlQeu away 30
long that they are we'll
nigh forgotten are
draped In pnnfer or
tatlier effects. Lace
caps. both long and
short. will be worn as
the season advances.
some of them covered
with golden or jet gre
lois. and gathered TO
little yokes OF gold or
jet. Their nuttering
fulness. while OF course
more charming on tho
slender. tall woman
than on the stout one. Is
80 sufficientlybecoming
to the latter that she
may complacently hide
herself under the new
cloak in the happy Sc
curity OF being fashion,
able II not beautiful.
Why cannot We all be
tall and straight and
willowy, or else why
The sun., 1891-05-17

strsigIt widths Of the SIX and is fiounoed
with lace corresponding. with that used
on the sleeves and in the bretelles which lrili
the most unusual dinner gowns is shown in
the first Illustration and is OF heavy picture
straight and plain, with slight train and low
necked bodice. Every French gown is empha.
strsiehs brocadsd S9dice are iail % runs Of BLACK
chiffon, and high draped sleeves OF chiffon are
lulled with n cuu OF the dusky hue OF Hamlot'B
The sun., 1891-05-17

der and patches and
magnificent brocades.
Light summer materi-
ais are made with the
skirt or tunic slightly
caught up over an un-
derskirt OF some other
material richly TRIM
med. The draperies
are slight, but enough
to raise the skirt a little.
and are caught tw ice
in front about half q
yard from tho bottom.
Bows and rosettes Of
ribbon will be largely
used to catch up these
draperies. as we'll as for
ornament. Quite now
is the gathered skirt
The sun., 1891-05-17

nounced ABOUT q quarter Of q yard deep in
'front.' and slopfng upward toward tho hips. to
be carried quite up to the belt In the back.
The effect is particularly good when black
Brussels net lined with color is used for the
founce. A black China silk with pale
blue flowers. and with the lace ruffle
lined with blue silk. makes very attractive
gown with blue sleeves and yoke covered with
tho net. and tho whole finished with very mar
row gimp OF Jet. Lace is the trimming par
excellence for summer. Beau Brummell frils
OF It fall over tho hand almost to the knuckles
even on common gowns. and on those for
dressY occasions tho old laca sha14la that haya
The sun., 1891-05-17

eu u llttle moro III tIlo
=? A tall woman looks
why are not all the
,ut one and adapted to
BAD OF visa versa?
oy Pompadour striped
Q brocade. and flowered
Louis coats. Valois col
enri II. ruffs. Wonder
!, gowns OF jonQuil yell
Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1891-03-21
A NEW VENTURE.
A Salem Photographer Makes Larger
improvements and has Secured
an Expert Operator.

T. j. Catterlin, the enterprising
photographer, to meet the demands
to his growing trade, has built two
story addition to his gallery, aud
employed Mr.. J. ii. Brown, late of
st. Paul, who has come to this
coast to remain a year for his health.
He is an expert artist and holds
several medals for posing, from the
finest artists in the country. He is
an artist Of twenty-five years
experience, There is no climbing of
stairs aud every thing is now In
better shape than eyer before to do
better work at bedrock prices.
After a twenty-five years
experience in this line of work
competition is defied from any
house on the coast. They guarantee
all their work and invite the people
70 take look through their studio.