Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-12-06


II \ " although possibly they
II VIZ were. and who has been
obliged to learn the
theory of cookery by
its practice. In many cases she has discov-
cred how to do it, only by discovering, first,
every way how not to do it! And although
she has had advantages, has met famous
cooks and been treated with distinguished
kindness by the chefs and the cooks of genius
employed in the families of her friends, and
has thus picked up much for which she is
grateful, the most enduring and useful help
that she has received has come out of tribu-
lation and personal experiment.
The recipes that she will give, have all
! been tested by herself, the advice that she
offers has proved its value first to her. She
, can tell how bread will surely be spoiled by
actual relation of facts. and will give only
those means Of escape from destruction that
she has used to escape herself. 1t is not as
an artist or teacher, but as comrade. that
she would speak. And she will always be
glad to supplement these public talks by
any private information that she can give.
Letters addressed to her in care of the
editor of The DISPATCH will receive
prompt attention.
To Renew CurdIed 'Mayonnaise Dressing.
Usually, all directions for the making of
mavonnaise, are explicit in requiring the
oil to be added, "drop by drop" and the
white of the egg to be most carefully
separated; but none of them say anything
about what should be done if mayonnaise
goes wrong; it is treated like sin past re-
pentance.
Mayonnalse goes wrong, because the oil is
put in too fast for the egg, or else because
there is too much oil for the egg In the
| first case its conduct is familiar to most
cooks; it shows an oily mass above an un-
wholesome looking deposit of egg: it grows
stringier and Sinner the more it is beaten;
| instead of a beautiful cream-colored dough,
which can be reduced to any consistency,
| one has a nauseous, bright yellow fluid, a
| sight to make fear! In the second case the
conduct of the dressing is different and of a
painful deceit. 1t will, generally, harden
and grow light in satisfactory manner, and
the cook puts it away to cool, we'll content;
but when she comes to mix the salad-lo, a
curdled custard that is hopeless!
Not an Incurab1e Disease.
At least nine out of ten cooks call it
hopeless and throw it away. Really, in
| neither case is there any need of despair
OulN IOT egg. DiECt egg Is Heeueu, SlHCe
lack of egg or too much haste with egg has
made the trouble, nothing is easier than to
simply supply egg. Where the egg has not
had time to blend with tine oil, often one
may mend matters by pouring off the oil
| above, and then, after beating the deposit
| left in the bowl with an egg -beater, adding
| the oil, drop by drop, as at first. In about
| seven out of ten cases this will make your
| dressing all you could ask: but if the dress
ing should not thicken, that shows that you
need more egg. Add an extra yolk-only
one. Do not add it to the sorrowful dress
ing: add the dressing, just as it is, drop by
drop, at first, then o spoonful at time to
the egg. This never fails.
One should not have too much egg for the
oil. Delmonico uses one yolk to pint of
oil; and I have found the proportion to hold.
It is best to put in the vinegar and oil
alternately, and drop OF ice water, now
and then, is an improvement. Mayonnaise
should begin to thicken at once, and bleach
as the vinegar and water are added. Both
make it lighter colored, and both should be
put in with miserly care.
Accomplishment of the Esg-Beater.
am perfectly aware that one out of five
of my readers has discovered the accom-
plishment of egg beating, and values it as
it deserves; but-there are the other four.
I make the estimate from actual inquiry.
Do you know that In nine times out of ten,
if your custard or your soup curdles, if
your sauce or your thick soup or your gravy
Jumps, if your gelatine-stiffened cream
thickens unevenly, all you need to do is to
give the egg-beater chance to work? In
few minutes the soup, the gravy, the
custard, the cream will be of a ravishing
texture. Try it. Don't scold the cook, or
IL h. h. L.
the thing well. A few whirls of the wires
will surprise you.
To fulfill its mission as the champion of
economy in the kitchen, an escalop should
have perfectly concocted sauce and the
finest quality of bread crumbs. 1t should
also-this is important!-be made by per-
son of taste. Any odd bits can be made
into delicious escalop. Any farmers
wife, out of the carcasses of fowls which she
often throws away or else turns into the
soup pot to make weak and insipid broth
-misnamed chicken soup-can have dish
for an epicure.
Utilizing Bits OF Chicken.
She can make white soup, flavor it with
onion and parsley, stir up the bits of
chicken that come off the bones, pour it into
sn earthen dish, sprinkle bread crumbs on
top, scatter melted butter over the bread
crunUS, Llel Dihe III Tic oven uUGll Cne
crumbs are brown. The bones Of the fowls
will make the stock for the white sauce
In town a third part of mushrooms is avail
able, and makes the dish more toothsome
Wine may be added or not, according to
taste.
have seen a very delightful escalop made
out of cold bit of fish that did not look
useful for the entertainment of man or beast.
A white sauce, a little onion, little cream,
Whit of lemon, glass of wine, the
mixture poured into any kind of shells or
dish, and behold an entree fit for any occa-
sion! Cold salt mackerel makes an excellent
escalop. Bits of beef from the bone that is
left of roast, if cut into neat dice and put
into tomato sauce and covered with bread
crumbs, make a very palatable side dish 1t
is not necessary to give proportions; take
what meat you have "a cuptul Of meat to a
pint of sauce is q fair proportion), make
your sauce out of anything that you have,
dark sauce with dark meat, white sauce
with white meat.
A Favorite Delmonico Dish.
There are innumerable vegetable as we'll
as meat escalops. Sauce, solids in small
pieces, and bread crumbs are the only neces-
sary ingredients. Onions, sliced or whole
(when very smalD, with white sauce,
make a good escalop. Potatoes cut into
small pieces, with shalots or minced onion,
parsley and white sauce, have for years