New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-01-04
THE FASHIONS.
FABRICS FOR SPRING AND SUMNER GOWNS.

FINE FRENCH HoMEsPUNs wooLLBN AND
COTTON CLOTHS-FRENCH PATTERNS
In the midst of midwinter the shopcounters are
already filed with fresh dainty cambrcs ana other
figured cOttOns, sheer musins and embrodefleS' III
preparation for January and February sewing Al
this season OF the year prudent women manage 10
have their dress cOttOns and other simpler dress
making and sewing done so that most OF their summer
sewing is over before the quiet OF Lent has passed
The spring and summer wOOlens and other dress
goods already in the hands of the importers ana
in short time the largest importers OF fine SILKS ana
Of millinery goods will have their next seasons stock
thi, side of the
The now woollens designed for early spring wear are
rough soft goods, Of lighter weight than the caneIS
hair, worn now. scottish homc,pun tws IN stripes,
ind!>tinct checks and mixtures are a noteworthy
feature Of the season. importation. These t"II'd
woolcn, are shown in the coors which peasant women
in ID: north of scotland and in Ireland are accustomed
- dive their own homcspuu goods with dyes made rom
uetyc forest llrl-. There are many OF these 'loU'
iu tie we'll known homc~pln blue or army blue ana
thi, shade promises 10 become very popular There
are natural gray and natural brown Shades ana mere
the color list usually ends. though dlill bt'"H'h
rose and ID vague shade OF green are sometimes -ho"h'
The tale 50 often repeated, that these cloths are
actually woven ana dyed with forest barN~ pH
pca,,, in tho wilds Of the scottish Islands and Ire
~
81 feet the scottish homes uns in market are made III
France and are a great deal better and stronger c"tl
than could be made I'm the none primitive i'N'p"' y
frw ~ these peasant w0ocn, were no DOUBT u''l oS
English tailor, as noycltic, before they were manli't
urrd in the arg, mills, but it is doubtful whether any oi
this peasant cloth has ever been sold over t'
Tho. rurl cloth, are the model Of the -uitins- for
thr coming season. Even the camel har '"'h> anu
cashmere, arc imported in homcSpun col'@ ana enc
few c.ti,. which ar. perfect reproductions II I"'l
fr,o. are al-o shown but there few Of these heaNy
co.d. which are suitable chiefly for spring wraps OF
Jacket. Roueh boucle and bourctte effect" are ire'
used In some VI the new homcspnns mus ''eF' "o
Goods IN sedc of blue IN even ln'h s'rIp'9 "i
inch check. outlined with raised irregular cord III
hourett, style. \, rule tie new 'niilngS are I'h
ported f,r entire gowns. but there arc some IN ""'h
h,c, 81 h,,nespuu (, combined with check crossed
g., ,trlu.- or with raised figures when look IKE
bt,.r'- -,veled warn. There are al'o hg'S "t son
,, wool matted down and caught In shape and Sill
other. like long inf, II -ilhcn goats mar. I'I' "c
many example, % cloths in 'uhdued N'Ue' "''''''
ly fhr,ad. Of bright red yellow. orange Is new
color which /, u-, for this purpose ana appear po"
ncntly in fancy paids and mixtures.
r. ,, ,f cloth, in solid color figured with herring
~ ar l..,rou stripe. Is also feature of the coming
,ea,pu These stripes vary IN size from q '-"' ~
fin. a, the vale of diagonal coth 10 wv" "'"
wide IIome,puu blue cloths are very ot'n ','P''
rl,rit u
tho. whit, strip, with balls OF bhr. the -ah'
,,,.., -, ,l,,h i~ repeated in natural gray and In
,r,v, and IN peasant red with white. number
- ..,.r LENGTHS ar. shown iu ch"vrou. camel lalf
,.i. Ar. imported with deep band 81 cm"i"l'''N
T., trim the edge OF the skirt at the if"' ANU '"'
and n r,. are oihrr band, 10 trim the bo1''' '" '
Tho ,,llar and ruit or else" here Ih''u '"'''"'''
ara. seen iu these gowns again, portion "' '"r N"'"
,.io, al, ,1tI a piece ~ wln,c "r some ''Nl III
# hp res introduced ana NVll
, ,d finished with thread, Of silk embroidery
mar. ,,. ,I., borro Jacket, entirely Of embroidery
u,1, f., complete other gowns, aud t1"IS" '''''
iat.,. are mo- longer new they VIII No doubt be worn
il, summer over soft mou--cur d" sole ana "''r N'er
vest, trimmed with White n"ci'""i'.
The ur,t pilates oi French STYLES how as usual no
nrop,rp,cd changes. set there J., nttc doubt from dl
',,,,,- that the skirt for tie coming spring and
,,,r ,,,u lie considerably fuller than they have
noe, for -.yolrl years There are panl'r~ ON some
If rho nov figures. and the urc OF hlrro" r'"eN OH
thc cdg. Of tho skirt IN - soft iou IRON cluster i III
assured matter. one OF the mo7t 'tl'hHE
j., ..t rov.n. II the Introduction Of the lons Wasted
rIl1,;athnn coat which /, lifted closely To the hEulc
extended below thu natural w'u,iliu" II! a ,i'P pony
A. seen i'm the picture of the Virgin Cucoi'' qua ''
Inn, skrts added. The prevailing -lcNc Il inc IohT
lrg a. mutton sleeve htmg CLOSELY TO the forearm nnl
uuIcd AZ the ,hOaaer and extending down over iie
E'"d Thc collar remains high, but the ndIulS 'olti
With uoluts turned away seems to be preferred 10 inc
49, ,.,iI.r nov worn which Is too warm for summer
,.an'tr" rnth 4. a sheer WOoilcu gauLc striped win
lines OF ,k aud figured with sawed noWIs ana
nhrr design, IN contrasting cOlors. IT. i lisher IMAM
chnliicr which will probably TAX, the place Of 10 a
Iary. extent There is also variety OF eAquIsltcN
d,intv wool grapes crimpcd Ike an English mourning
crane or plain and smooth, figured WIN Hover
cmitor. in ,On lovely French cOlorlnSs. There
orc also n number of brOcadcd or jacquard wool
rrunr. figured with ELK figures In scroll, spray ANA
ntIrr designs, The most noteworthy OF these sheer
woolIu. ARE. those figured with printed yarns" Civ
ing designs in chenc effect: ,., -
sheer orgindics goods dear 10 our grandrotherN. are
alaln imp0rtc, In all the fascinating Sprlggcd and
~. ntn old
organdirs have ground, striped with fine cords and
aro printed or figured with printed yarns" giving
The rhrur designs of rose, and other blossoms now
seen in orcandic muslin gowns which preserved
n, herloon, and have grown yellow with age.
The new znphyr cloths and French cahhricS are
imnnrta i'm sof delicate COlOr,. with great deal of
white though for conservative taste there are darker
coors The usc of chcnc effects Is also noteworthy
feature of these goods
Thanks are due to Lord Taylor ana James McCrecry
a Co.