Fairhaven herald. [volume] (Fairhaven, Wash.) 1890-????, 1891-08-18
A QUEER TAILOR BOOK.
SCHEDULE BY WHICH TALORS MAKE
AND PAY FOR CLOTHES.

bers Of the Amalgamated Society OF Tailors
The great majority of journeymen tailors
it should be noted, are allowed a certain
number Of hours for the making up of a
garment, and are paid, in good shops, at
the rate Of sevenpence an hour. This is the
key to the system upon which the log is
arranged. According to the time stipu-
lated for the making up Of each garment,
so is the workman TO be paid.
The work under consideration is gener-
ally alluded TO as "The Log" but, as a
matter of fact, it consists of several logs.
There is, among others, coat log, trou-
sers log, a vest log, machine log, and also
a log for ladies' riding habits and other
tailor made clothing. But it would be un-
generous to expose the secrets that under
lie the manufacture OF these more ex-
quisite garments. To disclose the mys-
teries of the riding habit log would show a
want of chivalry. With its revelations OF
padding and pinching it might disenchant
us of that most charming sight-a lovely
woman on horseback in the Row.
Nobody will be angry with us, perhaps,
If we dive into the mysteries of the "frock
coat log" except the gentleman who occa-
sionally advertses in the matrimonial
papers his possession of mice square shout
ders" Such shoulders are often made to
order When made OF haircloth or extra
canvas, the journeyman charges one hour
for them-that is II they do not exceed
nine inches-and one hour more IL they ex
coed that measurement, or part of it.
For padding or wadding basted on can
vas in shoulder" the log specifies half an
hour extra, with one hour for "wadding
flash basted through sides" and two hours
for shoulders built with from two to three
piles of wadding canvas or cloth"
An ordinary coat that does not conceal
inequalities Of the figure can be made up in
thirty-five and one-half hours. Yet any
one putting on coat of this simple manu-
facture would be surprised to hear the mys-
FERROUS processes that are involved in the
manufacture Of it, Here are some of them.
with the time to each, all duly set down in
the coat log:
Putting in thread marks and fitting up,
one hour; scanning side body, one-half hour;
waists, three-quarters of an hour; lapels,
three-quarters of an hour; scanning side
seams, three-quarters of an hour; making
up plaits, including hip stay, one hour; first
press, three-quarters of an hour; plat peck
cts, one hour; basting in canvas and button
stay, one hour"
| But there are many other things to be
!
| kind to suit the fastidious, and the log pro-
vides for seven distinct "cuts and puffs,"
! for twelve special kinds of edges, ten sorts
of seams five different pockets, eight de
tails regarding sleeves, twenty two peculiar
! facings, twenty-sx sundries and ten bast-
| ings, making a total of something like l46
/ items that may be called into play in the
making up a superior frock or dress coat.
A well cut morning or shooting coat goes
through at least twenty-five processes,
/ which take twenty-seven and half hours,
| without mentioning extras, of which there
are five. Then there are charges for edges,
seams, gun patches and basting that are
distinct enough and yet bewildering in
their number.
Lounge jackets do not seem to give quite
so much trouble, and allow us breathing
time to count up twenty-five hours as alb
sorbed in the making. with seventeen items
| for extras, seams and basting.
COAT AND JACKET LOGS"
The inner jacket seems at first sight a
mean sort of garment that gives merely the
trouble of couple Of hours to make up,
/ but we catch sight of an ominous line
which says, "all other extras same as frock
or dress" The Chesterfield or ulster seems
to absorb time as freely as it does rain.
There are twenty processes to begin with
which take twenty nine hours, and there is
a light selection of about fifty nine extras,
not to speak of ''other extras as per lounge
and frock coats" and Blasting as per
morning coat" with six hours more for the
new shape.
Covert coats start off with as many proc
esses as Chesterfields, and there are plenty
/ in the hunt coat and the Eton jacket to dis
] . ha 81 - IA.
ments and capes, the postillion's jacket,
and also the jacket of the boy in buttons,
are no less varied than the rest.
| The trousers log shows l4l different proc
esses, and is simply, in the language of
Mr.. Richard Swiveller, ian unmitigated
staggerer." The log was framed for gen.
eral adoption throughout the trade.
The log deals with breeches, pantaloons
/ and knickerbocker breeches; with leggings
CATERS and spats, and there are special
logs devoted to repairs and to leggings,
which are instructive and interesting.
/ Nothing Is missed by our comprehensive
compilers, not even a bishops CATERS. A
start" of eleven hours is allowed for these
somber adornments. and one hour for
tongues" Three hours are set down for
the making of anklets with three holes.
"All other extras are charged same as leg
| gings,'" for which eleven hours are re-
quired.
"Pantaloons start same as breeches."
SEVERAL KINDS OF LOGS"
There Is a special knickerbocker log, and
particulars for Alteration of knickerbocker
breeches." 1t is proper tribute of respect
to masters that servants breeches or pan
falcons start one hour less than gentle
mems"
There Is an extra "Breeches and Brooches
Alteration Log. and IA "knickerbocker Al
iteration Log" and particulars relating to
'overalls," cotton or flannel drawers"
"long kneecaps, center overalls. or mud
boots" and short kneecaps."
Eight and a half hours are sst down in
the Vest Log" for an ordinary waistcoat
with a choice Of sixty-one extras. Gents
double breasted vests, ""dress vests, )" "cas-
sock vests" and FLANNEL under" would
seem to absorb much time in making, and
there are twenty-nine hours, without ex-
tras, allowed for livery vest. There are
two machine logs" dealing with work
that is machlned, and divers other items
in this wonderful production, In which
nothing has been overlooked-not even
''shams."
A prominent west end master tailor has
I pronounced the list to which we refer
I (which contains at fair calculation some
/ thing like loo different items of charges)
TO be as perfect masterpiece of a journey
man tailor's log as could well be prepared"
London News.
A kind act has longer life in the mem