The Sunday morning news. [volume] (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1886-1891, 1891-12-27
FASHIONS FANCIES.
The Exacting Dame Offers an En-
ticing Variety in Furs and
FurbeIows.

Fashion continues 70 make use OF two
shades in costume. but when the wear
| er lacks height, this fashion is apt TO en-
| phasize her breyity.
| On the sleeve, IL one must have trim
| ming. it is permissible to put narrow
turn over cuff, or buttons and loop-holes
] up the side. Also o mntton-lez sleeve
may have bracelet or ribbon tied round
he upper arm TO hold up its fuIlness.
| This last would be hardly suitable to
| heavy cloth.
Fur and white lace mingled on demi-
dress costumes is q fashionable fancy.
/ the fur is in narrow bands. and COM
monly is used as beading.
| The newest linen collar turns over the
neck band, and 10 similar to the '.LYron' :,
| collar worn by the men. The cuffs to
match them turn on the outside. Ties to
wear with them are OF bias silk. or of
straight silk hemstitched all the way
around, or else mans f0ur-in-haud
| Long ample cloaks will be in fashion
| able use all the fail and winter. Some of
the Paris and London made models are
very luxurious and distinguished in eff
| feet The cloth wraps for general wear,
for travelling shopping. etc, and for
| dress uses, are superb creations of velvet,
| Marie Antoinette brocade. plain Dyons
W
small brilliant flowers.
Velvet is used in conjunction with fur
| to trim winter gowns. Bodices are Vari-
ously decorated with it-for instance, the
sleeve is pulled to the elbow, or just above
! it. and fur band is carried round the
/ upper arm. The yoke bodice is fulled
| acfoss the chest. the fuIness drawn to
| point at the waist shows a narrow band
of fur dividing the yoke from the lower
half of the bodice, and 1t is not at all IN
usual to see the corselet or Swiss belt
| outlined with fur at the edges.
| A charming development of the shout
der trimming is the jaboting of white lace
| straight down from he shoulders to the
top of the bnss. White lace is used on the
| waists OF both cloth and silk gowns in
tended for dressy occasions, such as Wis
ting aud the theatre IL is usually point
applique Besides Ike novel way just
mentioned, it may be put on in a fall from
the shoulders to point at the bottom of
the front. To give width separate pieces
may also be gathered over the sleeve top.
Another way is to gather it across the
front from shoulder TO shoulder, as a low
neck would be outlined.
Opera cioaks seem TO get more gor-
/ geous each season. and elaborate passe-
menterie in all shades is still the rage. 1t
does look garish to use so much of it, but
one must do so If they wish a stylish
| cloak. One made OF old rose silk l saw
/ had feathers about the neck, while the
entire front and half way down the back
was heavily trimmed with gold and sill
4 yer fridesceut beads.
One of the features In millinery is the
varied treatment of feathers. Tiny birds
| and wings are bedeZined with gold, sill
yer and steel tinsels, and many other
metallic tints. Gold and green metallic
feathers form an important part In milli-
merry, and feathers OF various kinds are
covered with spangles of gold, lined with
- u. H. f.. -
these tiny spangles are nude are often
novel aud original.
A trimming of fur tails. either of sable
or mink. wired to stand upright In pairs
or in fleur-de-lis shape, is especially fash
ionable on touues or turbans of cloth or
velvet With such hats young women
| wear coat Of light tan cloth, fitted in
the back and straight IN front. with
| turned over collar and facing OF the rich
brown fur, closed by frogs OF brown silk
cord. For older ladies are capotes almost
entirely of sable trimmed with standing
| tails and a miniature head of the animal,
| with loops and strings OF white satin rib
bon. A white veil with embroidered
sprays and scslloped border completes the
fur trimmed aats-
Its next to impossible to avoid itera-
ton in describing the fashionable dress
skirt for the promenade, for almost every
gown of this description worth mention
4 tiouing is bordersd near the edge or di-
rectly upon it with narrow bands of fur
or its limitations. Many dress patterns
are sold with very good imitation Astra-
Khan beaver or other close Mapped or
shaggy fur tended to edge the skirt.
As the short train prevails, one can only
think OF these borders with u sensation
of disgust, for they act very efectually
the part of revolving brushes in sweep
ing up the dirt
With the very cold weather comes the
craze for beaded evening bonuets, thus
making acute neuralgia fashionable. At
! an informal dance at Crescent Hall the
other evening. l noticed bright little
lady. her eyes and feet dancing with the
\ enjoyment of the scene On her pretty
/ head she wore one OF those Insane inyen-
tons for winter, a jet crown which
| showed the head and hair all through.
After the dance she left the heated room
and went into the cold night air, while
mentally added her to neuralgis's vic
tins. And she Will probably wonder
how she got it.
Jet Is very fashionable In fact 1t IS
too fashionable, or 10 be more correct. too
much is fashionable 1t weighs women
down from the crown or their heads TO
Inc spangles on their slippers A few
4 Years ago this sparkling trimming was
iabooed by doctors. who cisiineu that
many of their patients ailments were
| caused by the weight of their gowns
1 With its return TO popular favor comes
its abuse again. women VINO coutdn't
carry Baby" upstairs carry much more
than its weight in jet trimmings.
The straight collar Is on most dresses
/ r. should not pc made so wide and so
close as TO be veritable choker. Long.
thin neeks are not beautiful A medium
width looks best; it is also most fashion
able. The straight collar can be varied
rs foilows:--It may be OF paSsementerse,
even though passementerie Is nowbere
else on the garment; or II may be OF Jet;
il may have fur set an its edge, II may be
Of nlack velvet ribbon. or it may be OF
/ gold cloth or gold xAlloon. The gold Is
seved on so as to show an edge OF the
dark cloth above. as the skin looks bell
4 ter with dark color against +. When the
collar is OF ribbon a small bow OF the
same may fasten ii; otherwise IL is FASH
ioued iuyisibly. or else with q brooch.
The fashionable breoch Is round, The bar
4 hin having had its day. Whether Of not
i white edge is worn Inside the collar ann
4 sleeves is optional. it Is never more
than mere line. ana c4tnmoniy II il NOT
raea 1t al. The Meticis aud other high
rolling collars are on evep<n& Wr@fs. Duh
IRE is<5t! much seen on dxx <<esteS- a
novelty Il collar. kof ! root dxs1s thet