Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-01-18
RUNS ACROSS 0UIDA.
Lillian Spencer Has Another Start
ling Experience in Italy.
THE KovELIST'S VILLA AND DOGS.
She is Beginning to Hide Ages Marks
With -Rouges and Powders.
LIVING IN THE scULPToRs' STREET

and we have walked into il.
Oh, there is no disputing that fact. Our
boots give only too plain evidence of it. 1t
has been a long promenade, good friends,
but-we don't regret it. Our digestion is
superb. We are bronzed, but it is health
full hue, and not as unbecoming as one might
suppose.
1t was midday when we came into blue
Florence, sleeping on the banks of the
golden Arno, at the foot of the Tuscan hills.
Nothing could have been more beautiful
than the scene which presented itself. The
sun shone full and warm over the steep
heights of Fiesole, with its crown of monastic
walls and expresses, and tInged with its vel
with villas. The Duomo, that wonder of
the world, with its pink, white and purple
marbles. shone with dazzling brilliancy In
the MONDAY light. Above it shot the huge
she'll OF the cupola of Giotto's campanile.
Seventy towers once surrounded the walls
which encircled Florence. These are for
the most part ruins now, but the city still
has her great great stone and iron gates,
which are closed at night and which after
certain hour will open to the wayfarer even
for royal bribe. Why they still deem it
necessary to protect themselves by closing
these gates after having levcled the famous
towers which were once, not only defense,
but glory, Is a mystery.
A Little Behind the Times.
All in all Florence has not modernized
very much. The great bridges, for in
stance, are all there unchanged. We
walked over the "Ponte Veulno," (unlike
any other bridge in the worid) and fingered
to gaze in the windows of the shops of
mosaic and silver ware which line it. Does
it not seem odd to walk out into the middle
of a river to buy card case, or a necklace,
as the case may be? This bridge is said to
date from the time of the Romans. 1t was
rebuilt at the instigation OF one of the
medici, SO that she could walk from the
"gallerIa degli Uffizi" to that of the
"Palazzo Pitti," on the other bank of the
Arno, without descending into the street.
This de medici certainty had an eve to
convenience and comfort. She could thus
come and go in all kinds OF weather and
run no risk of lost feet or-sunstroke.
Trust a woman for looking after her COM
plexion. And an Italian woman especially.
The climate makes this imperative. One
burns almost black in Italy. And it is a
black which will not readily yield to face
washes and come of. The signoras know
this, and they are scrupulously careful. 1t
is easy enough to get new husband, but q
and see what it will cost you'll The s1gnora
knows, and she takes no chances. 1t is not
pleasant to be ebony-skinned. One cannot
match ones high frocks. And everyone
wears thin, summer gowns in Florence.
found fresh milk about as effectual remedy
for tan as anything else. By washing the
face in it twice day, and refraining from
all uses of water and soap, it will really
work wonders for the skin.
She Discovers Ouida.
The first person of interest met in Flor
ence was the world-famej Ouida. Ouida is
quite as interesting as her novels, and not
nearly SO wicked. Her villa nestles snugly
among the Tuscan hills which hang over
the city They are grand hills these, with
olive mounts, and vineyards, and orchards
of figs. In the noondaJ sun they shine
blue; at sunset pink.
Ouida's villa is not pretentious. It is low
and rambling, with a square stone court
yard shut off by iron gates. The windows
open to the floors, and one walks from the
dining room and parlors into the gardens.
There are some statues hiding among the
trees, very credItable statues, but old
enough ito know better" Still, one
should not be too severe, for it Is about as
hot as the conventional hades six hours out
of the twelve.
Ouida is, as I suppose everyone knows,
unmarried. If she were anyone but herself,
L should say frankly that she is "spin-
ster." For person who deals in such lob
lots" of heroes as she does this is quite odd
1t seems TO me, with so much material at
hand, she might have made herself fine,
handsome young chap; and given him a
charming disposition to boot. But she
hasn't. No, Ouida does notcare about men.
She knows them too we'll. But she adores
dogs. And no doubt she gets as much
amusement out of her pets as we less torIu-
nate women get out of our husbands. There
is this to be said for dog: He is always
loving, faithful and good humored-when
he is awake. He comes when he is called
too. And he keeps his engagements. Oh,
Ouida knows what she is about. And what
jolly lot of dogs she has to be sure. Fine
thoroug hbred fellows. And how they love
her; and go scrambling along after her,
wherever she goes.
Ouida's Dogs In Paris.
Not long since she was in Paris at large
and expensive hotel. AS usual she had a
halt dozen or more dogs with her. These
dogs had their meals served them in her
rooms and went every day with her maids
each dog was down for full board. The
great writer flew into terrible rage. The
landlord was summoned in haste.
what do you mean. sir, by daring to
present me bill for my dogs"
''They are eating and lodging in my hotel,
madam" was the reply, ''they are therefore
guests!''
at is an outrage" Ouida declared, 81
will not pay it."
''As you please, madam, but we will keer
| them until you do.''
'Keep my dogs" she gasped, "my-
| dogs"
Certainly, madam, that is just what W.
| will do.''
This was too much to be borne. Ouida
beside herself with rage. dashed of to the
| railway station and returned to Florence
When she arrived she had cooled down, anc
her hungry heart ached for her pets. So 8
servant was dispatched to Paris. He paic
the bill, which was appalling, bundled III
the animals and restored them to their mi 3
tress. Doggies stop in Florence mostly now
but occasionally they 60 for trip, and ther
things are lively, tell you. The railwa,
guards swear and tear their hair, passenger
rebel, servants fly around excitedly-bu
Ouida is calm, bland, placid. She pays tn,
fare of her dogs and defes the world. Bravo
| Ouida!
Age Has Done Its Work.
| Time has not passed this distinguished
woman by. 1t has whitened her hair ane
faded her eyes. She rouges and powders, al
what woman does not when she has 10, ant
dresses rather more youthful than is stricti,
in keeping with good taste. She hates tht
Americans for some reason or other. think
1