The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-07-26

speed of about six miles an hour il all that
can be realized.
Roads there are none; deeply rutted
tracks are followed. When the rut gets
too deep for safety the track turns slightly
aside. and 10 such an extent does TINS
sometimes occur that in places the track
occupies a width of quarter OF mile or
more. Swinging, bounding, joting,
creaking. straining over this extraordinary
route. the coach pursues the uneven tenor
of its way, sometimes laboring and plung-
ing like ship at sea, constantly heeilng
over at angles at which an upset seems I'M
ayoidable, now descending into the deep
bed OF ''spruit" (creekl now sticking fast
In heavy ground, now careering over
masses of rocks and stones. The travellers
all shaken mp inside, Ike an omelet in
irving pan, never cease to wonder that the
human frame can endure such shaking or
that wood and iron can be so firmly riyeted
together to stand such strain. 1t may
be mentioned that the life of q coach does
not exceed two years, that upsets are ire
ouent and casualties not uncommon. In
this latter respect, however, we were for
tunate in reaching our destination without
the slightest accident or misfortune, our
drivers being skiliful and the teams on the
whole fairly good.
Whether South Africa win ever possess
proper coach roads is doubtful. Railroads,
however, will soon supersede this anti
quated method of travelling, and the coacn,
with its long team Of mules, the transport
rider with his wagon and his still longer
team of oxen will soon become things OF
the past, or TO be banished TO the remotest
regions. At present, however, 1t IS pos
sible for any one that cares about the ex-
perience to realize most accurately the
mode. so graphically described by Lord
MacauIay, in which our forefathers trav-
eled In England some two centuries ago.
Along the road but few human beings are
seen, human habitations are scarce and
far apart and little animal life is to be
perceived. Birds are fairly numerous. The
Hkoran," the partridge, the plover. the
ssdlkkop" offer to the sportsman occasional
shots Skeletons of horses and of oxen
which have succumbed to the labors and
privations of the journey abound along
side the track, all either having been
picked clean or in the process of
being devoured by flocks OF vuitures. at
one place we perceived some scores of
these birds surrounding carcass, all of
them so gorged that they took no notice
of our approach, although we passed
within few feet of them. The hotel ac-
commodation in the Transvaal is of the
toughest description, the Dutch scarcely
approaching either cleanliness or comfort.
1t is possible that the sleeping rooms
might in some cases be condemned by an
English magistrate or inspector.
An extraordinary profusion of food
awaits the hungry wayfarer, but, alasl it
Is quantity and not quality which is at
tanned, and 1t is easy for the man who
dimes in Dutch hotel at a table covered
with every variety of viands to rise from
his repast almost as hungry as he sat
down. The following is the menu of din
ner which awaited our party on our arrival
at Pulien's "winkel" (store and hotel)
where we passed the first night of our
journey: