The Democratic press. [volume] (Ravenna, O. [Ohio]) 1868-1901, 1891-06-10
EVOLUTION OF FABRICS,
Stuffs That Wrapped the Pharaohs Now
Worn by Arabs.

stufrs That wrapped the Pharaohs Now
Worn by Arabs.
DR.. j. b. Lessing of the Berlin Art
Commercial museum writes: The land
that first offers to our notice any i'm
portant textile fabrics is Egypt. Stuffs
have come down to US from the ages
of the Pharaohs that are actually worn
by the Arabs of the present day, the
wrapping of mummies. The material
of which these are composed is in
every instance linen. The use of wool
for wearing apparel was forbidden in
ancient Egypt, linen only being con-
sidered neat and clean. The speci-
mems in the Berlin museum show that
this linen attained high degree of
fineness, and even of transparency.
The means employed in the designing
of them was sort of network with
glass beads, which were partly round
and partly oblong.
Wool of various colors was also
woven according to the representa-
tions on the monuments, but the stutfs
produced were not used for clothes.
but for furniture and other purposes.
Chairs were upholstered in check pat
terms. There are also extant a large
number of patterns in Egyptian wall
paintings. These were originally
weavers' patterns-the patterns of the
loom pasted on to the walls.
In later times, especially in the
period of the Ptolemies and Alexander
the Great, very valuable articles were
produced in this department. Nothing
has been preserved, but the references
in ancient literature warrant us in say
ing that they were products of en-
broidery and half embroidery.
The rich finds in upper Egypt be-
long to the late Egyptian period,
mainly to the period from the fourth
to the seventh century, A. D., at the
time the corpses of the rich were
dressed in the robes which they had
worn during life, and as much as pos
sible was put into the graves with
them. Much of this buried stuff has
come down to our day in a good state
of preservation. In these fabrics we
find but very faint echoes of the old
representations of the pyramid period
for instance the lotus flower, etc.
Greek rule and Roman rule had passed
over Egypt, but the culture had re-
manned Greek. and its chief center was
Alexandria. In the seventh century
Greek culture ceases; Islam presses
in, also the Copts, who leave traces of
their culture in the Sassanide. etc.
The finds referred to have great
technical interest. What was possible
there must have been possible in other
places. Another question, "Was more
possibleP" can not be so positively an
swered. We have no definite proofs
which warrant an affirmative. Much
must undoubtedly be regarded as pro-
vincial which is yet of considerable
importance. Particularly interesting
in a technical aspect are linen gar
ments, with designs in wool and pro-
vided with borders. Their trimming
goes above the sleeves at the opening
of the neck, in the lower part not
quite round, and rise up on two stripes;
on the shoulder two round pieces are
attached. Another kind is as follows:
The sleeves, the lower part, the breast,
and shoulder pieces trimmed; in the
center where the girdle went round,
no garment.
The production of these borders was
attained with considerable technical
difficulty, and it is interesting to see
how it was overcome. The material is
first woven through, then designed.
and the border part unwoven; on this
portion the wrap threads, therefore,
continue to stand without the shoot
going through them. The pattern is
wrought on these threads, which are
not bound by shoots, but by a process
which is really embroidery. as these
threads can not be penetrated with
shuttle but only with the needle.
We have, also, whole series of the
fabrics woven with maps. We have,
further, the technical popularity that
the coarse woolen threads are inserted
with the needle; in short, we have
whole series of interesting details, and
the designing, which is weighty and
important, reminding US in part of
Mosaic patterns. They consist partly
of Roman and Greek inscriptions.
Peculiarly interesting are a series of
floral patterns, which indicate really
earnest observations of nature. A
series of semi-natural leaf patterns is
produced as follows: A large field is
formed of dark purple material in
round or pointed oval shape, and on it
the threads are put in in white-leaved
patterns of extraordinary fneness and
excellent taste. These borders are
not worked in but for the sake of con-
venience are prepared one by one, and
sewed on. This is applique work.
About Judea the bible gives us many
items of valuable information, although
in rather disconnected way. Much
light has been cast upon the subject;
we may even say that deep insight has
been given US into the textile art of
antiquity, by the great discoveries
which have been made in Assyria in
the course of the present century.
Slabs of alabaster were found among
the remains of the royal palace Of
Nineveh, in a good state of preserva-
ton, which exhibit in low relief seriecx
of figures representing various in ci-
dents in ancient life, showing US for
example, this king at court. in cattle.
hunting. drinking, etc. All t,'nose re-
liefs depict the costume of '.he nerson
represented down to t'ae smallest
detail.
We see long, close fitting garments
of heavy materials with few or no
folds, which must have been thick
woolen fabrics, embroidered with o,old.
These garments are covered with cir
cular patterns. stars and in general
with plain figures and are provided
with borders OF the breadth of a hand.
The principal part of the garment is
completely covered With this border,
and is quite in the style of the dress
now worn on sta.te occasions by the
servants OF princes. The border is
put on, enter straight or in curves,
ana Aas remained so distinct in the
soaEp lures because it has been en-
y wed on the stone with a sharp
chisel