New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-12-13
THE FASHIONS.

Dresses Of light chiffon, spsngled gauze snd d..
tissues OF different kinds being prepared "a, r.
dances 10 take place during the holiday season. TAe
dresse, arc made Ap shmmering satlns srh a.
favorte colors are moonlight blnes, pale y.lIo.-
cream whites and color. These dainty gowns a.,
cut with bodices pointed low front and back snd -
cap sleeves, made so as 10 display the arm fully.
pendant fringe Of metal spangies sometimes nnshes a.
pointed edge OF the bodice and falls the am ~
the pointed edge of the cap sleeve. pale moonlst
blue satin was recently shown drsped with bssk ~
over which were. scattered spanses Of blue steel ~
demitraiu skirt was completely covered by the s,,,.
parent net A deep rain' fringe Of 1lus steel -.
With spangles finished the pointed edge Of The bodIc
fall Of fringe also edged the high short sleeve.
Some of the daintiest dresses for theatre and =,
ternoon weer arc made Of erepon wool, combined M
| velvet or with corded silk in q harmonisinr eolo
A handsome dress OF this kind was OF violet sr,,o.
| cloth in the large vale now considered styi.h
The sldrt was bell skirt made severely plain ~
finished with fold OF velvet on the bottom. sAsds
1 or two darker than the dress. This fold was I'm,
and half inches wido the 'front.' and was graduated
till IL measured ten inches ut the train. II was uni,1
DO the dress by q cord of silk, the shade Of the voo
The bodice Of the finished with large squa.~
| jacketpeces OF violet velvet on the hips viols
velvet vest, high collar Of velvet ana n,nov
point Of velvet. extending from the collar down ts
| back TO the waist line, trimmed the waist an
| narrow velvet cuffs finished tile sleeve A drSu
] of a dark shade Of navy blue crepon furnishes
dainty idea for simple house dress. The vote su<
high collar of the dress Of dark blue velvet m
high medium sized sleeve Is furnished with narrov
cuff Of blue velvet and there Is fourinch velvet band
Mt the bottom of the dress narrow but bnlnan,
passementere, composed Of steel beads In jewenm
shades borders the velvet YOKE cus and fold Oh III.
bottom of the skirt, where it unites with the vol
feature of this pretty dress was new full fryot
and back The fulness usually occupied BY the darts
was drawn toward near the centre OF the front q
Il could be- and IT then held down By four rows q
stitching separated by about half an inch Of space
at the waist, and soping upward slightly. ms
eroup OF stitching reached about as far as the dss
uould and left slight fnlness before the wool iopel
\ the woke similar group Of stitching In the bad
fitted the dress TO the figure there and BY this near,
all seams except the two seams under the arm were
| avoided. The bodice extended below To
| waist In point back and 'front.', and va
finished with three inch sirdle OF blue velvet edged
with brilliant blue steel passcmentens in jewell
effect.
| Bedford cords are now being made mp very simply
| and often with no trimming on the skirt. The bodcs
however, is generally trimmed. Heavy paa%
menteries in the mode gray or in the dark shade n
the CLOTH border the edge Of the short pointed boda
outline the cu and extend around the collar and down
the 'front.' which Is frequently draped In stylish, %
| casionally eccentric, but always effective, ways
| The bell skirt which Is in the greatest favor, hs
completely reyolutionned previous methods Of skrs
| hanging Not one ktrthanger IN twenty who wa
an expert in the old fashioned gored dress made
| O foundation can hang this new skirt to make "
| with that grace and precision and fan-like sweep
which IL should have. Properly speadns, the bell
skirt has no seam except the scam down the cents
of the back but matter Of fact, very few dress
| makers make 1t in this way. They make II With Q
| gored front breadth, and the bins seam down tAs
centre of the back They also quite generally make
it over q gored foundation skir of silk. though the
French bell skirts are simply lined with silk, ami
| times with foundation muslin under the silk. e.
pecially at the back breadths 1t is necessary 10
some stifener I'm order to give the skirt the props
fan like sweep; but this stifener must he Of some
| light pliable material. Cnnoline Of tho hghtest
quality, such Is used to line folds is the best for
this purpose. Where foundation skirt is rscl, tho
boil-skir simply becomes dr,pery. though has the
| same effect as q lined skirt. The foundation
skirts are made by the same patterns as they have
| been. They are of strong taheta silk, the seams
| sewed up by machine and overcast They are hced
with bias fold OF about ten inche, deep and
| Ms is covered with facing Of strong mohair The
| dress is finally bound with threeinch foh OF vel
veteen. This should extend up at least quarter Of %
inch the outside in order TO take the wear OF The
edge and prevent the silk from becoming cut there,
it will If the velvetecn Is used merely as piping fold
In order to make the skirt Eli gracefully the edss
the trout breadth Is frequently slashed up about two
inches In the centre OF the front breadth and the na
distance either side Of the centre, two inches ron ne
centre. These square tabs are bound around with 10
vevetecn edge. thrceinch Iuihe, plnked or hemind
on the edge is often placed baayeuse against tho
/ <ac pdafsa hiri anAa
outside u IT, to give a bounant effect to the edse.
This is tia foundations skirt which the belshh
| Is usually draped by American dressmakers.
The bellsdrt itself 10 nearly . semi-crcle when
laid out Hat The space for the belt is cut out Of Tie
centre o; what would be the completed circle Enoosn
is taken off the upper edges of the semerele TO aoW
| them the bias, and when these two blases aN
scwed together, they form the back breadth some
| times o deep gore, extending TO the bottom OF n1
skirt, shapes out distinct front breadth. Again Inc
entlre fttirg of the skirt is accomplished by thres
four short cores at the top and the fan OF pea o. e
back. band Of velvet, group Of three tiny rumes'
border Of passementene plain hem, finishes u'.s
skirts 1t is next to impossible to remodel last YEAR,
skirts In the shape, and she who does II VIII |"
| clever nodiste indeed.
| The new bodces are all made over fitted lnine'
| The only places where the material Of the puee
| united to tho lining and shows on the inside Oh w
| waist are at the two seams under the arm am
| the shoulder seams. The new Innings are nosc~o'~
for the slender effect that they give to the o'ss"
The darts are brought far forward a. possine oS
| Ing only about inch between the first TWO oAl'S
| while the second darts are set but short us"u's
further back. The old fashioned dart Is an dnAp'"'
thing on the outside Of corsages unless it Is on sa
tailor dresses. The fulness necessary for the psus
Is drawn up In the centre Of the back ana Wv
centre OF the front Of bodces In cluster OF ny pe
as described or is held In and concealed under v~
| embroidery and velvet In mont and long Senu'.
| point Of the same at the back. All tie new "''
| forms are fully boned in every seam
Comfortable wrappers OF thick ederdown hnne'
semiloose with flowing sleeves and rolling eollsn ~