davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
I7GH7S AND STOCKINGS.
Tho Newest Wrinkles In Fastenlngs and
Garters-How q Girl shops.

Tho Newest Wrinkles In Fastenings and
Garters-Hovv O Girl shops.
Every one knows that garters have gone out.
and girdles have come in: but did any stop to
trace the analogy between tho decadence Of
the one and the popularity Of the other
1t is the wearing Of tights. Of course. that
brings the garter into desuetude: that
is. that reduces the number Of garters
worn by one-half. II you see swaGger girl
with gold ribbon one inch In width clasped
around her waist, you may wager your bank
account that she has its mate clasped around
her leg. Just below the knee What for? Oh.
1t is amusing to watch the pretty girls shop
ping for tights; With the perversity Of things
mundane. the hose counters are presided over
them think you are skirt dancer or a ballet
favorite: And so the pretty girl gets thetights
on the @
she hustles home and puts them on her own
slender extremities. throws away her garters
hour realizes that she has never really lived
her eye sr0 a the tn nae p oskss sn wc
de$th isss Their terrors Tor her. Auu s00aen
woman is the way sho manages from little
clear, and devoted to her stockings in the
AS child. no matter how much she wants to
beat her brother in the race. she has to stop II
her stocking % comes down: As z woman she
she never relaxes the vigilance over her stock
a lifetime Of this constant, strict surveillance is
IS ended t is little, wonder that our girls are
ping up bravely into the worlds high places
and winning laurels nfame's great temple.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

q! revenge someti@ sc Or i, sid * QUESTION.
ever asS @s sssssss sas se
trim chop IN an out-of-the: way nook, she has
her address and when gowns AM. wraps begin
to clutter everything. she is sent for. comes i1
cab trips daintily about. pulling over end end
money and goes away. Next day trunk Or
ss the ssSsfS Gnoss wssr eqs
X. At about the same time. maybe, the char
ity organizations, receive sum n money
known name. and, oddly enough. y IL exactly
great sum. either; She took twenty Eight
$500 each. and Il had Just $500 for my fund"
- card took the inauisitlve person to this
W hst ssh gowns oss s
ns ws Ss the sss s,sass tss
eat. kediern. and twenty H' more famous names
huddled about the que queer small place. Il was a
e asa 81 edersd u.s.
Ssxt door . a iandeFS Sit.t that one had
sErsd at an Ast2r , sele 1
within The next week Here were gowns from
\! Murray FIJI; there were ten meant for belle
T. dhpper Esh also suddenly beroSyod
sheen in silk aud gold and silver. and pearl
S rst e. sG ss
~ those on tours. After them comes an army
oli women who care more for excellence Of cut
Altogether she and her sRSp % aro bit 81 Paris
sot down In New York's heart.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

maze Himself sppec ne ass
without S counting charters and otser %isceis.
neous medieval documents to the number OF
Spse ths S
Mr.. Macray.t historian Of The library ~: "''O' u
Prsiss
a.:!,ss q
'nSs So .
% m nsns: wiling. no ss
juring friends.
and the general slaskness Of the university IN
81 BoSes ss
sssys nos en N9s tass r. 9s
autocratio ruler. The BodIrian was V SO u n.
S5 fSys e. sn
snd whs asa sS
but o ms entb;
before his, death. Of Prices views Of the du-
ties 81 9 librarian Mr.. Macray gives us one de-
Beddoes in 1887: HE discouraged readers By
ssd istis iSssss
brS, ,aIr1 T., WnGa thps. LOOKS voyages
Of readers to get possession OF Tie BOOK Bu
III RGs ai but 9ats sga snt t.
the longer he Kept It ont the better Tor While L
to be IN the bsry he Ee
In one 81 Price's later years@lSii-the total
the tdhisgracffu number Of eighteen! This
commencement 81 the history Of the Boeleian..
The next iibrar iap; Dr: BandlneI. whose ten.
u IN
would seem seer. like his predecessor. to have for
81 S h puSc 81 sg% @ Se
II la,,a hi 81 house Use at re time 2, Ss death:
own private collestI"n WITH the books. too e:
valuable coin that the o Bod dt owns as m0f Il
= fss w.
had not searched the coin rom. and and
found empty, the space where, the. crown
Last stoo pstt ; Crown sSd fetched ess
ser wbe on the ate Cox.
began his epoch. making reign In the Bodleian.
rboye what n was named In its Imperfect cata-
treasures: nor were they ali books. In one de.
post Of mouldy boxes was found the large bell
foundation: it had disappeared H So long ago as
l74I For ,twenty-one years Mr. Coke
ali sorts :, arrears Of cataloenins. ar. ar.
rears OF binding. arrears Of purchasing
(which, were left him by his predecessors.
ished: but the present librarian. who has con.
tinued Mr.. CoXe's work with unflaRgin9 ener-
gy. still finds plenty to do in Htoning for the
sins Of the eighteenth century It is hard
enough to keep up the mere annual work Of
some in Under the Copyright act alone in Tie
twelve months To have reduced the arrears
to reasonable proportions. while coping at the
yell be considered a creditaDle work for Mr.
-oxe and Mr.. Nicholson to have accomplished.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
WHERE SHE SOMETIMES FAILS.
Woman Not Yct Up to Mon Even In Her
Own Domain.


or course It is rank heresy to mention it. but
does 1t ever occur tn the advanced woman that
while as yet she has failed to demonstrate hor
superior ability in any of tho professions or
industries Of mans province whenever the
man invades her domain he invariably excels
her in skill and success2 The woman doctor
takes second place to the mon. yet the man
cook is the greater the better paid. the more
successful than the woman. The great
est lawyer in the world is not a woman.
but tho greatest milliner is. q man.
and tho most famous dressmaker is also
a man. The best tailors for women are
men. the greatest designers Of house dec
Grafton. architecture. and furnishing are
men 9 and the oest house s keepers are men
first-cass club. managed entirely BY men. il
lence Of cooking and variety Of menu. the
same absence OF friction and annoyance. for
the same amount Of money. Provided BY the
world. In any household. II q man is allowed
to have dominion over his own particular
invariably lind that. the mans room is the
favorite place In the house. and that rarely. is
see a psWSh y9 10 enjoy 1t In peace'u
Because il is restfal a cSering and has no
up with vexatious sashes The lights are ar
like. aud are not so buried in frlls and milf
merry and frou-frou that their original purpose s
lost, There are welcome space effects In the
mans room-happy contrast with the clut.
tered crowded confusion of the woman's room.
Things are exactly where you can put your
any forethnught Nothing is in the way OF
something else. There are no knickknacks to
thing has purpose. The pictures are hung
where you can see them and are worth looking
at The books are whe.e you can reach them
bric-a-brac have u purpose as well as his
tory. The whole idea Of the mans room is. in
idea is-efrert. In searching after his ideal
the man frequently attains the woman's ideal
We'll ae ma 9ttsn misses both in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

THAT which her slender waist confines II
is Of great variety offorms this season and ia
seen as an accompaniment to all sorts OF
gowns. With the severe tailor-made dress.
which has this year a plain. medium-length
cont bodice. not slashed. but stitched. is worn
this year by slender women belt OF the cloth
about two inches wide and stitched on the
edge. With more ,dressy. toilets the Cir
de sd Of and thes a are silver and not en
at home. hut IN tho street and even with
for cloth and silk gowns is made Of bias vel
vet about eight inches wide with three rows
Of y raw its Ss dSw to M tss
same way. except that as the opening is In the
hack the jointure is hidden by little fril Is Of
the velvet left out over the edge OF the lining.
This grdle. as well as tho one. equally popn;
to insure its fit. Coat bodices as we'll as the
Priucesse gown ure finished with these girdles.
The prettiest OF the EomanofY or Russian
dresses is in white cloth with Russian sable
trimmings Owing to the prevalence Of court
mourning In Europe this season. white Is
brought prominently to tho front for dinner
and afternoo gowns. and modish women will
appear ut meets. church parades. and
seaside promenndes In these more ia
vored climes In white wool gowns
trimmed with lynx. fox. astrakhsn. and
sable, The model shown is Of so-cnlled
"oystsr- white" habit cloth. which is generally
moro becoming to brunettes than the ivory
white so much favored BY blondes. and Ia bor:.
dcred everywhere with the rich. beautiful
fur SGT on beneath narrow vandyked bands Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
MONOGRAM TOAST.
A Culinary Curiosity Produced BY . Clever
T0ung Woman

- =
Young WOmqn
A certain young woman who. her family
says. sits up nights to think up clever things,
thought up specially clever one month ago.
The family knew as soon as she came down in
the morning from her air ofsupreme self -satis-
faction that she had an idea working some-
whore back in her brain. But for q week or
more she kept her own counsel: then. one
morning. when they came in to breakfast, they
knew. For at each place was small plate OF
hot buttercd toast. and on every slice appeared
the monogram OF some one member of the
family. in creamy yellow against a golden-
brown background And when everybody had
Wondered enough to satisfy the vanity even Of
to 50 duwn Into the kitchen and display tho
cs.ontrtvance by, which she had brought
1t al about. 1t was made like an ordin-
airy toaster only that the centre was composed
o. monogram. which was held in the frame
by a single wire attached to each side. When
the bread was put in and held over the fire the
metal OF the monogram kept Its outline from
browning. and when the rest OF the surface
was crisp and brown the letter device WAS just
touched with creamy yellow. The rack was
made q ordinary wire and the letters were Of
the family SO that the self-esteem Of all might
capable OF holding hut one slice at time.
The beauty OF this toaster." explained the
clever Young woman. lis TINT they could be
mhde IN silver and used for dinner favors."
But her tathcr shook his head ruefuily and
said: don't see the beauty OF that"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
SOCXETY'S OLD CLOTHES.
A Little Shop In Which Are Gathered
MementOes OF. Great Social Events
Economical Uses of Reul 'ourt Trains

Economical Uses of Real Court Trains.
| Tho other day IN inquisitive person asked a
| leader Of New York society with the reputation
| OF never wearing gown moro than three
times: How do you manage not to be
mped in a sen OF garments? Your gloves
cost more than all my wardrobe. yet find my
closet disagroeably full at least once year."
The woman smiled inscrutably. saying:
The poor we have always with us. SEQ you
| look incredulous. but 1t Is an absolute fact
| that my Worth gowns help to warm muny q
poor creature every winter Not. OF course. in
their first estate. Madame IL the magician
that makes them available. When have told
you my part Of the story will send you to her
for the rest You see. II one goes out great
deal heaps OF clothes are u necessity. and the
more unique and striking gown Is. the short
or Its season OF usefulness. For people remem-
Dor 1t, and do not forget to remark its appear
ance II at all frequent Then you must either
remodel It. give 1t away. or send for madame.
"A clever maid. with knack In her finger
tips. can transform simple gown with new
draperies and trimmings. but give her an EN-.
broidored, French creation. radiant with tho
punsss terribly IN fac cha That tie ths
last state Of the garment is more notable than
world Is silk or velvet. Very handsome and and
well cut. but severely plain. upon which, all
t q a.e sy b to
On the other hand. your style will never be re-.
marked; and what woman could bear that2
Nearly oil PROMINENT society women have sis
a. t. %aE s e sss4seS
worn garments more than acceptable. Yhatis
what becomes OF deal OF society's frills,
Their new owners. make them over. or wear
Zone Fifth avenue matron Within my knowi..
edge 10 sort OF special providGnce to many
their names. The surplus OF her wardrobe
ture who delights to distribute among other
gentiewomen who are secure enough Of their
Gentility not to take offence at the gilt
That sort q thing goes on largely abroad.
S s g S.rs
YOU more than one belle and. beauty whose
career would be Impossible but for such good
sometimes worked over BY dressmaters out.
side. but 1t 10 the exception. not the rule.
IN London. though. you always count on
new sysnp bss gown out
70 i've yards long. aud Heaven knows how
with as new stun; besides. there Is the lining
are kept a9d made over. Indeed. "a a rule.
peculiar sort real lace OF all sorts. Lyons vel
vet, and sable. In each Of these we buy such
and tor the NEST part We keep them very we'll.
Our maids. Of course. come In for many
things even such as IL mauifestly impossible
Tor them TO wear. but generosity toward ones |
personal attendant ID moro and more taking
"DlsagrecabIe eontretemps have more than
onoo arisen from the maids appearing In the
garb or the ornaments Of the mistress: some
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
Shopping as q Pror ssion,

Shopping has risen from pastime to pro.
fession. 1t Is said there are several thousand
women In New York city who live on the Der.
centage allowed them by the big shops in
which they spend other peoples money. In the
rushing season-about holiday time. and lust
them maka. as high as 800 n week These
lucky ones though. usual ly have money OF their
manage generally to secure the cream OF them.
Ihen when an order comes they are often able
70 MI 1t from their private stock. and poke
and tho bargain price.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
INTERESTING INFORMATION,
A Small Cottage Scttlement-Oberlin Girls
Capture = Thiet-The Association to AID
Observation-Disclosures Ladies' Club.

Capture = ThIei-,The Association to Al
Observation-Disclosures Ladies' Club.
Two moro young women Of social place hav,
left homes Of luxury to live among the toiler
for the uplifting OF their more unfortunate sis
ters through the medium Of friendship. Som,
months ago Mrs. Gilbert Colgate and othe
thoughtful women Of Orange organized clul
OF tho girls in tho hat and box factories
small cottage was rented as a club house. bu
1t soon became apparent that to insure sue
cess a resident interested in the work was
needed in the cottage. And in answer
to the need Miss Grace Hall. sister o.
Mrs. Colgate. and Miss Marion Pease
OF Buffalo have taken up their residence in the
little house which they have furnished with ex.
qulste simplicity. The work undertaken by
the two girls Is similar to that Of tho cottage
settlement In New York. but tho club which
holds its meetings in this house Is entirely
self-supporting and has formed tho usual
classes in dressmakng. cooking. DC. which
are found in all working girls clubs Miss
Pease brings rare musical talent to the work.
and has organized large chorus to which she
will be accompanlst and instructor.
Nine. Leon Bertaux. manager OF tho Union
OF Women Sculptors and Painters. is making
a crusade against the exclusion OF women
from the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris TINT
promises to be successful. She bases her
claim on the plea that, as the need is growing
more and moro urgent OF opening as many
professions and trades to women as possible.
they have n right to claim opportunities OF
training. The census Of teachers opinions
indicates that the presence of girls while i'm
proving tho general atmosphere OF the art
scn3ols as rrtgarts fha mannnrs OF tho men
Tenchors also wayer hefwean nveruanv w,Ek
and fayoritism toward oirI n,,niiS Rnt Xxx
American theory OF CO. educatipn Ia h,vi Er'v
much infiuence over the Franch and wnrt IL III =
adynntaneously Tor MmS Bsrtamr's sc Nan .hs
N''
No nm con cony,rco Ohor,i, noo,,o .h.. =. -
w INV We" .o'' '"oo o"ei'h po"pie t'a' 'he
higher education OF women Is without practi-
cal adyantag %. A certain large boarding
house In Oberlin bas bcen rohhod Gyn timos
who hoard there now Iook nnder their hoda
and in their closets every night before thew
90 to bed, in the hone Of finding n horrihle
man: The other night tho man materlalized,
s ana instead OF screaming lire" In the tradi-
tlonh woman iasnion. tney, captured the IN
truaeaIr * thetE sW1iuhess ana dsxterlty. though
Ia III Lne oInor roDDerleS tne oHender mad
oeen alioWeo " escape; Ihey MADE " very
unpieasd1 III r9r tneir vlctm while ne was being
a 1919 oosi'.' VI pi',ahtnloplo"I Young
nas Deen olsah'zeu LOT .he PURPOSE OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

to 20 away from the bright warm vision into
the cold and drenry world outside aud SO YOU
stay and drink great deal 81 hnlf-stunid tepid
You talk sweet nothinGs. and i no one else q
say whom you went In.
know bride who always wears red gowns
when her husband IL st home, nnd WITH, with 2
do The s same 'H Il they want TO INVESTIGATES FOR
themselves the success or failure Of marriage.
q the ed 10 .n
tour ' IL The The Pars trunk + Of thin cEepon ID
suoh brisht. glowing. vivid scarlet In broad
Rssts$ssd AsSas sss
line full plaitines OF scarlet set on In
festoons beneath q row Of flashing Jet Sc
bn Ths VICE Srsteas bseE yeSe
edged with jet, and 10 finished with a broad
black velvet sash at the hack. ESCAPING from 9
Any kna nspd ssveass
Ia as Intoxicating as rare old wine, when
are always, plenty Of men at her "at homes"
Flowers. especially political flowers. are cm-
Whsso pstce are S thus revsasd
by the BIZ Of muslin they carry thrust through
tho fashionable world Is q perfectly smooth,
tight-ftting waist Of velvet or satin. without
trimming 81 any kind. and long sleeves made
Tor tho stout women. who viii, 10 the ,arst to
adopt It, such o disastrous prediction has the
stout woman for tho thing she ought not to
wear.
Plcturesqueness and simplicity rule tho
mode for little maids. but those most excellent
qualities nre expressed In materials more
suitable for grand DANES than little girls.
Heavy corded silks. rich brocades with huge
conventional designs. fur and top-heavy
feathers. all are employed in the child's ward
robe In colors the most grave and sonbre
However. 1t cannot be denied that the deli
cate spirituelle beauty Of the Ameri-
can maiden Is brought out by the
contrast and emphasized. while in the
matter Of hygiene never were children
warmth as well as for artistic excellence. The |
fair.hatred little beauty In the group wears
quaint llttlo coat Of heavy corded, bluck silk.
with. ful! sleeve pufls and plated yoke out
and Is fastened IN front with an antique clasp |
ssthanteir. with a black velvet 6rim and
p!umes and crown OF green; The little
Sa 5 SPe%u e With s0's BAND
Of black need!ework, and edged round |
the sleeves and down the front with Persian |
lamb fur, while the older maid. In the centre. |
dS blue srsP1nt VIII broad
made than either Of the others At the wrists |
are fine embroidered frils. and q black |
velvet ribbon is crossed twice about the waist
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
Hom Me Minneapo'f. Tribune.

MoNTREAI- Nov 10 Yesterday a farmer
meath tree near his farm In ST Jerome
parish. She was alive but ALMOST a skeleton.
Grapn iocstic Wyer MONTH WS aga o'I shs
loft house TO GO to church. but had never
been heard OF again. and was believed to be
she and her dead husband had often sat To-.
gether. She fell asleep and slept for two days.
she wandered about the woods for thrtv-fve
navs and never tasted any food. She obtained
I St from brook since she has been found
the above remarkable story. She is In very
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

golden lights in its sheen. This band Is up.
on 70 ths with
bodice has folded gIrdie OF velvet. and Opens
new muffs carried on the other sido are two or
ter. and. long haired fur. lynx, marmot.
curled goat, &c.: Is preferred, which odds to
their apparent dimensions. II the Russian
aSss s P b auss q
shaggy bear or lynx for Christmas present
The couture frizzled has been deposed for
the couture curled. and not only that. but the
curl or wave to be fashionable must be In
accordance actually with natures principles.
Last year frizzed hair. In juxtapositlon with
straight locks, and snarl OF curls breaking
out OF smooth twist were not considered In
great improvement In hair curlers. bow
much to the yehemsnce with which Mary
Ann turned her tresses into the fash
fess ana Yss ANY 81
Anyway the hair for the eaiifurs approved
must 20 lightly but smoothly waved and twist
flat portion Of the head where 1t is, most
fists are really studying the approved types Of
Clytis meshes are most influential in general
effects. One style Is known as the Apollo Golf
lure Mntrons are gradually returning to the
accord Wth ntroa
die aud aritdown smoothly TOT simple twist
Or HAT coil Of brnids IN the back. or; more p9pu
curl softly in childish fashion In the neck.
Aud young women and youthful brides fiuc-
tuate between the two modes. according to
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
An Ar,s.oer.t,e Marie. Gardener.

Pretty nearly half Englands nobility has
gone into trade Of some sort The Duke OF
Fife IL turning his land into bank stock. Lord
Randolph Churchill 10 special correspondent
and the name Is legion Of those noble danes
who sell everything from butter to bonnets-
and not always by proxy. The so famous Lady
Brooks runs shop In connection with her
Eastern charity work. where you can buy
nearly everything woman can put on from
tho crown OF her head TO the sole Of her foot.
Her betters In birth and breeding holp them
selves In lowlier ways One. the sister OF
the wife Of the Duke Of Wellington and daugh-
ter OF Marquis whose blood Is of the best.
lives just out OF London In a rambling old
house thpt has half IN acre e garden behind
1t a good share ~ her maintenance, Shs
gSIddts SHt aa her asHarsgus Rsd crowded with
but cannot AFFORD to eat Il, Every stalk Is
engaged to Coyent Garden Market. whore It
fstsIhsss enough money to clothe me and my
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22

One OF the curiosities OF the Anderson Hotol
~ the cricket that chirps In the elevator. Dur
ing the Hood last winter the little fellow was
several days In another part OF the house.
Ihen NJ slowly moved his house from point 10
pp.nt until u" reached his old home in the
elevator 10 has bern there now for several
tnonths aud evidently was glad to got back, as
MS song has heen sharper aud nerrier ever
aimee. The little fellow Is well fed. but nobody
IN the house has seen him. His music ID thA
only thing that reveals his presence.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-11-22
4 GIRL WITH A CAPE ULSTER
A Fin'de.Siecle Young Woman
Pleasant to the Eyes.
THE RED, RED GOWN.
Its Use in these Dark Afternoons
and Some Advice.
TIE GIRDLE OF THE MODERN VENUS.

The Beit that she Wears Newadays-Ths
Latest ThinE In Hair-dro ssing- Dainty
Watches from Abroad - Heresy about
Mea and women-Notes about Women
nnd their wor,k-socioty's Old Clothes.
Tho girl with tho cape ulster Is the breezlest.
joliest larklest expression Of femintnity on
record. Nobody knows Just whom or whence
she came. but she is here. most unique and
individual type Of the end-of-the-contury con.
dlttons. The very sight Of her would shock
tho beginning .of.the-century girl of into ono
Of her favorite faints. There is o breezy
virility In tho sweep and swing OF the jaunty
cape that indexes Enthusiastically the manner
Of girl she Is. that bids conventionallty 60
hang. and demands Of honesty OF purpose
and sincoritS OF character heights Of
virtue undroamcd Of as yet by post