The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-08-07
A Surnrislng Movement.

Tho dress rclOTm mONeiueHl lbtcly h'H'cu
by women Of the Chautauqua Assembly 10
remarkable as the first large and concerted
effort OF women themselves to bring about
radical changes in feminine fashions. Its
organizers have succeeded IN uniting In 1t
tho leaders OF tho greatest associations for
the general advancement Of women and tho
promotion OF moral reform; and they have
also brought into sympathy with 1t the re-
lieious spirit which prevails ut Chautauqua.
The opportunity for tho combination was
afforded by the resolution OF the last Ma
tional Council OF Women that more suita-
BILE dress should be devised for tho vnst null
titude Of feminine workers. 1t Is obvious
that the garments ut present worn by
women are o restriction upon them In their
competition with men In most departments
o. industry. But 1t Is no less obvious that
women workers will not wear . costume
which distinguishes them from the rest OF
womankind. Hence II any dress reform at
oil Is 10 be brought about, 1t must extend
to women generally. It must DO made the
universal fashion, az dominant In the Fifth
avenue as 1t Is in the Bowery.
The recognition OF this necessity has In.
duced the reformers to get together and use
every IuDIdi. ICuBipuo cNiiiShA "hN ~ e'oeAS
influence to produce radical change in the
dress OF all women. They will work through
tho churches. through the means OF the
Chautauqua system. with tho assistance OF
the great temperance organizations OF
women, the womens clubs, the feminine
physicians, and all those who arc Interested
in movements for the advancement OF
women In any direction. The very dress OF
women. they argue, prevents their emanci-
patton from traditional restraints. tends
to their subsection. makes impossible their
full physical and intellectual development.
cultivates frivolity and lessons dignity. i'm.
pairs health, creates false standards OF
beauty Of form, and injuriously affects off,
spring. Thus dress reform Is urged by them
as tho first and most important Of all the
reforms OF the day; and perhaps is.
The exact costume which these new lead
ers OF fashion propose to substitute for the
present feminine dress has not yet been de-
cided upon. There seems to be no agree
ment among them on the subject, except so
far as concerns certain general principles.
They want to get rid OF corsets and every
article OF clothing which in any way retards
the natural development of the body and
hampers the play OF muscle; and they seek
to stimulate women to the study Of the
most perfect examples OF tho nude feminine
figure produced by ancient and modern art,
SO that passion for true beauty OF form
after the best models may be created in
them. They want to turn women away from
the nrtihciality Of the fashion plates to the
contemplation OF the ideal figure as 1t is pre-
sented In famous statues and paintings, with
all its undraped loveliness exposed.
This is q new method OF bringing about
dress reform, and, considering its source in
the religious groves Of Chautauqua, 1t is
significant and oven astounding. Yet Miss
FRANCES WILLARD. the great temperance
reformer and apostle Of moral purity. Of
the strictest religious principles. and the
severest notions OF proprlety, gives in her
adhesion to this policy Of intoxicating the
study OF the nude among women.
The purpose OF the reformers is plain
enough. 1t is to begin by inducing women
to think first about preserving and develop
ing their natural beauty OF figure, feeling
sure that the desired improvement in dress
will follow naturally. II the Venus Of Milo.
for instance becomes the leader of fashion,
Of course the present dress must be cast
aside for costume totally different. II the
fashion plates are to be the pictures OF
women whom artists have represented Us
the highest types OF the beauty Of the femi-
nine form, corsets and the other garments
which squeeze the body out Of Its natural
shape will have to be abandoned. The Chau-
tauqua movement. accordingly. proposes to
approach its object gradually, and by COM
pletely Transforming feminine standards OF
beauty. Like the figure painter. it begins
with the nude,