Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1891-03-26
NEw YORK EAsHIoNs.
Spring and Summer Mnterials--New

| special correspondence VI Gazette and journal
NEW YORK, March 17.-Spring and
summer woods are conspicuous, because
retaining the very large plaids, long
hairs and astralIhan weaves that have
been noticeable since last fall. The latter
frequently outlive mammoth squares or
are placed in stripes an inch or more in
width and the former in some cases lie
on surfaces to the extent of six inches.
Large round or oval spots also in astra-
khan or hairy weayes, add their quota,
while bourette fleckings dispersed
among plaids, broken or otherwise, or
stripes, contribute towards IL general
| roughness.
coLoBs
however, are invariably subdued in
case of such marked features, else the
results would be unbearable. Soft
shades of tan or gray with occasional
variations in blue or heliotrope, prevail
and should bright relief in red or
yellow be introduced, ii is TO a limited
extent only. Where colors are bright
surfaces are smooth and here there are
quite brilliant contrasts, Yellow is the
foremost hue of the season and is intro
duced everywhere, coming out in woods
in peculiar combination with heliotropc
or gray or in millinery it may form
unitings of great dash, especially when
used with black lace. 1t appears
in three tones, of which the deepest is
orange; next comes "Cleopatra" and
then light canary Elegant parasos
are Of black lace over yellow or trimmed
with yellow ribbons.
NEW DESIGNS
chow M t,iore ~, ely irts aud ea,,,a ~ I, oec
have slight draping or are full in front,
thus showing tendency towards fuller
outlines. Despite these signs neverthe-
less, sheath skirts are still made and
waists continue long with great oppor-
tunity for showing off a good figure. As
result, there are not few beautifully
fitting corsages, especially if made over
the II. g. G. corset, which will not, like
other corsets, stretch and lose its original
form. 1t is extra long WASTED and meets
the requirements Of both full and slen-
der figures. Combinations of plain and
figured goods are a necessity, because
Of the large patterns in vogue, and inn
porters therefore show them side by
side, the plain being used for corsages
and parts of skirts. Entire skirts of
plaid on the bias are however still worn,
but usually of smooth surfaced fabric
MILLINERY.
The peculiar and in some instances,
fantastic shapes in winter millinery are
repeated and occasionally exaggerated
for spring and summer Brims caught
up at the back and extending out in !
front are again the rule and from large
sizes, diminish to quite small specimens
which show almost in miniature the last |
mentioned features. Toques and turbans
re-appear and the former being provided |
with strings, are chosen to the disadyan-
tage of capotes which are in an unusual |
minority, A few hats and bonnets are |
in Milan, chip or split straw, but fancy |
weaves' are seen to remarkable extent |
and the smallest shapes are entirly in
such styles or with only the crown in
plain weave. Black appears TO some
extent, but is no longer special factor
and in view of the great run on tan and
gray shades in dress goods, the majority
of straws come in such hues with
goodly proportion of yellow that in fine
fancy weave, looks like lace.
METAL RIBBONS
are marked feature and from "baby
up to widths of two and half
inches, glistens on the attractions Of
steel, silver or gilt of which the latteris
by far the most freely employed, all be-
ing in plain weave or broeade. With
colored silken ribbons, metal is plenti-
fully intermingIed; it reaches to fruit
and flowers in trimming and some ele-
giant capotes are wholly made of gilt
with beautifully lustrous result. Charm
ing hats are composed wholly of inter
lacing stems with crowns left open at
the top, over which wide brocaded rib
bon is placed softly, while small flowers
in wreaths or larger ones nodding in
punches or separately according to size,
will complete the summer like picture.
STEMS
are indeed a factor in millinery and of
large size and often thorny, form link
between iiowers placed respectively at
he front and back of hats, or are CON
'picuous appendages to very large roses
hat extend loosely from centres, nam
moth chrysanthemums, tiger lilies or
morning glories. The free use of velvet
II making causes these large flowers to
eem yet more pronounced, but all is
toned for by richness that is captivat-
ng. Gilt asps form little world at
houses and from small ones,
our or five inches in length that are tied
n knots to fasten trimmings, they in i
'rease in size to over a foot and are
enriched by simulated jewels
in large cord like bodies. All
lave open mouths and extended tongues.
RosALIND MAY.