Morning journal and courier., 1891-09-19
THE FLEETING SHOW.

sort of thing.
 THE FLEETING SHOW.
 Some of Its Facts and FancIes.
 Written for the JOURNAL AND CoURIER.l
 SNAP SHOTS AT FALL FASHIONS.
 About the first of October bra;ds on demi-saison street dresses will be worn slightly frayed.
 A new color comes to us from Paris. It is called sou. Be not deceived by the sound and imagine that it is variety of Indian red. It is blackish copper tint, the color of 8 sou when tarnished by fin gering and friction, and is not beautiful in name or complexion.
 The umbrella case skirt will be worn with comfort only by those who toll not, neither spin, neither gather into barns, neither exercise their locomotor muscles to any great extent. They are very snug and seem designed to make women captives, even while they are struggling and yearn- ing fer wider sphere.
 The long back breadths, attached, train like, to walking dresses, and forming what is known as the "dip" skirt, is probably an invention of the adversary. These sweeping lengths must always be lifted when the wearer walks abroad, thus leav- ing her to make her way single-handed. The practice of dipping" is reprehensible one. Let it not be encouraged.
 .Too much trimmin'
 $ the bane of wimmin,''
 can hardly be applied to tailor-made suits of cheviots and Bedford cords, or dresses of the very heavy materials now in all the shops. These must be severely plain, little garniture of the choicest being en- ployed upon bodice and sleeves.
 Fashion plates all point with pride to feather capes and feather muffs, feather trimmings and feather ruffs. Women will be mentioned as "the feathered tribe" and will fit about in an aggressive way, look ing very much ruf1ed as to their plumage. What has become of the Society for the Protection of the Birds of the Air, and the Fowls of the Barnyard? A war of exter- imitation has been begun upon "great nature's happy commoners" to supply this demand for "fuss and feathers" Shall we have no more wheat and cherriess
 Extremely high sleeves are now under the ban The new sleeves are broad at the top and fitted close to the forearm, thus taking the shape of the arm itself ,and jus tified by the strict rules of taste. Some height should be allowed, since sleeve should begin, or appear to begin, on top of the shoulder. The seam is then entirely clear of the arm and has the effect of being supported by the shoulder, ,as it should be. The working sleeve is the coat sleeve, but unless it is carefully fitted and so comfort able that one forgets she has a sleeve at all it becomes an encourager of idleness. The black or gray hats of soft felt are natty and trim. with bands of wide ribbon and a quill or two. Then come those with low crowns and wide, curving brims over run with feathers, birds, fragments of birds and bows of broad tendencies and lofty aims. Later we shall mark the re- turn of the "picture hat," aamboyant as ever, eccentric, yet quaintly becoming to 8 picture face. Alasl that no one yet has invented hat that, placed upon a plain l woman's head, shall make her beautiful. In such a magic hat lies fame and fortune for the magician.
 IN THE WIZARDS WORKSHOP. The beautiful, brilliant, yet softly y-glow- | ing, Edison incandescent lamp seems per | haps strange piece of mechanism to have been prepared for it's cheerful duty by wo- | mems hands, yet it is the fact that much | of this work is done and well done by wo- men and girls at the Electric Company E works in Harrison, N. J.
 l That which seems to be loop of lumin- ous wire is in reality filament of bamboo which has passed through eight different | operations to reduce it to the required | thinness before it is placed in it's U-shaped mould in the carbonizing retort.
 The bamboo comes from Japan tied in small bundles with wrappers of gsily- | lowered paper. The strips when given to the girls at the sizing table are about one. third of an inch wide and one-twentieth ot an inch thick. Little machines split these into threads and these are passed on to the next table where the workers sit at the del icate, firmly screwed planes, and reduce them to flaments one six-thousandth of ar inch wide and one nine 'thousandth of an inch thick. A tiny guage with almost in visible measurements is used to test the size of the filaments, and this work is in trusted to women's eyes, and lastly tho perfect ones are counted and placed in long narrow envelopes by the nimble fingers o1 little girls.
 In other departments women and girl are busy in counting, cleaning, inspecting testing and packing the completed lamps much too of the clerical work in the office is done by women. In all, more tha, three hundred girls and women are em ployed at the factory, their condition a
 wage-earners being superior to that O many, since the work is pleasant, withou dust, heat, or physical strain, their em ployers are thoughtful of their health ant comfort and wages are good. In point o good looks, health and intelligence the, are said to compare favorably with an,
 class of working women in the country.
 The company employs as many girls a
 its factory in New York and large mum
 Der in the works at Schenectady. At tn
 Harrison factory alone twenty five thou
 sand lamps are turned out daily. Thi
 field of electrical utility is a vast one aht
 there promises to be constantly increasin
 employment for quick fingers, alert intelli !, gence and the conscientious thoroughnes
 that ought to be characteristic of woman
 work in every line of action and duty.
 IRISH COTTAGE INDUSTRIES.
 The organization known as the Irish h
 dustries association, the result of an in teresting exhibit of needlework at the Ir ternational exhibition in Edinburgh i 1886, has for its object the encouragement : of cottage industries all over Ireland, tn improvement of designs and methods, tn provision of markets for the work, an : the regulation of it's production and SUI ply.
 The society was formed by the Countes 5 of Aberdeen, wife of the late viceroy C Ireland. Her interest in the matter
 genuine and earnest, and as president C the society she has been authorized by il 3 committees to arrange for an exhibit ( B lace, needlework and other articles ( handicraft at the Worlds Fair.
 The chronicles of nation are often t be read in the handiwork of it's people, an
 the industries of Erin are of surprising al z tiquity Ancient Ireland is said to be th source from whence England, Italy Franc u and Germany drew their knowledge of tf g fabrication of laces, the working of meta s and the art of Illuminating manuscript . As far away in the past as A. D. 192 thel is record of an Irish queens garner T "wrought over withthe needle" and an ol o historian mentions mantle "worked if squares by the needle" This probab was the ancient 'scut work, ]" which now
 its most beautiful form is known as Ga j. I rick Macross lace. For this cut work Pol t Innocsnt III in the thirteenth centul