Wessington Springs herald. (Wessington Springs, Aurora County, Dakota [S.D.]) 1883-1891, 1891-11-06
IT which point tncy must be compressed

wv "h.ch point tncy must be compressed
50 as 10 give style to the waist, The
oeiG IS OF broad ribbon, closing at the
PACK under bow. Starting from the
shoulder seam, the yoke takes the form
Vi crossed fichu and is ornamented
W., MIN oands OF open work silver galloons.
lhe pleated corselet at the back runs
upward 10 point between the Shout.
oers, and is OF course bordered with the
galloon, which also passes over the
shoulders bracewise and comes down to
meet the corselet The sleeves are made
iu'l with rever cuffs, and the fichu woke
mas ruche at the back of the neck,
rne slees OF the back must be left some
what wider than the lining, in order to
make small fold on ca h side to hide
the hooks
Two exquisite costumes are set forth
IN my third illustration, visiting toilet
ana a reception dress. To give YOU an
IDEA OF the beauty Of the Visiting cos
tume-the one on the left would say
IL consists of lavender amazon cloth
ana that is trimmed with velvet, the
SKIRT being quite plain in front with fan
pleats at the back. There is a founda.
ton OF silk or alpaca, something over
two yards in fullness and made with a
drawing string half way up the back
breadth. The skirt foundation must be
tried on before fitting the dress material
TO 1t, IN order to see exactly how to tie
the drawing strings This is Important
ana upon it depend the fit and ha of
the gown. You must allow three breadths
Tor the skirt and not turn the bottom up
or apply the st el galloon until you have
made the fan pleats. There must be
three cores at the top of the skirt to
prevent creasing on the hips. The cor
sage, which only extends an inch or so
below the waist, is closed with invisible
hooks at the back The sides of the
back are ornamented with steel galloon
applied lens thwise, sheaf-shape. and meet
at the waist an hide the opening. The
SIDES OF the front are set off with cross
bands of velvet and the gal Don trimming
at the bottom of the skirt is repeated on
the eorSage so as to simulate a yoke en-
broidered with steel. The velvet belt
closes at the back under bow. Velvet
and steel galloon set off the cuffs. There
is straight velvet collar
The reception dress on the right is of
black velvet The corsago passes a
little below the skirt and opens in front.
One Of the bands of pearlcd ga loon
serves TO hide the opening complete y.
Starting from the shoulder seam the
galcon serves to simulate plastron.
The straight collar IS covered with
galloon, edged with feather cord,
which may also be a silk imitation. The
sides of the back are trimmed in the
same way as the front; the galloon must
be fiat so as not to injure the figure.
The sleeves are made with two seams,
and both lining and velvet are gathered
somewhat at the armhole The front
breadth and also the entire bottom of
the skirt are edged with the galoon.
The belt of galloon is somewhat poiAted
in front and closes at the back with
steel pins. The upper part of the skirt
is ornamented with the galloon. dimin-
ishing in length toward the back.
A lovely fall costume in gray blue
cloth is represented in my fourth illus
tration, or amented with Jet cabochons
The jacket cor &c has ain plastron,
the lining of which closes in the mid le,
while it hooks on both sides under the
loose front. At the neck the stuff must
be full in order to form the gathers. AT
the waist the plastron is ornamented
with three rows of sa:loon or large
cabochons They also appear on the
straight collar. The sides of the back
are cut long enough to reach to the edge
of the basques, the seam being hidden