The Portland daily press., 1891-11-28
of it rivals the most beautiful of Swiss

of it rivals the most beautiful OF Swiss
scenery,
Gmunden lies like diamond in setting
of pearls on the borders OF a most exQuis-
lite little lake called the Traumsel. and the
Alpine peaks above u, wnicn are SO pic
same setting. The coloring of everything
is very rich and rare, and the GREATEST
beauty of it all is that art has not Vet triad
to add nor has it detracted in the sliehtest
degree from the God-given natural beauty
OF the entire surroundings. For an hon.
after You leave it there is the same n suhI
dued softness in the air and sky and the
same loneliness of outline as Won mass for
long time by this wonderful glisenino
lake. You almost feel a shock when thss
mountains of lschl tower up and encom.
pass you as you pass into the town.
IsCHL.
This Is also a famous Austrian reso,,
because Emperor Francis Joseph has a fine
castle here, The home of royalty ALWAYS
makes the people, however really humble
very proud, although Sometimes thew arr
quite condescending to strangers wIthal.
A sentinel walks before the gates of the
broad avenue leading up to the castle
while the the castle itself with its beautil
full grounds Is hidden among the trees. M
one is allowed to enter even the avenne
when the Emperor is there, and the people
speak quietly, as they always do when row,
atty Is by. But as usual they were ID,
lighted to tell all they knew of the plans
and doings of the family. The Emperor
with large part of his court, they said.
had been there for some days, and MARS
Valerie and the Empress Elizabeth Were
expected Immediately, she having been de-
talned at another country domain on 40.
count of some charitable enterprise.
THE COMMON PEOPLE OF AUSTRIA.
The common people of Austria seem very
happy and well cared for. thought when
visited the large "Volksgarten" Common
peoples park in Vienna, and saw the peas
antry sporting with their children for an
hours outing that the condition of the low.
er classes and their apparent coDtentment
rejected highly upon the character of the
reign OF the present Emperor and Empress
of Austria.
lschl is like Innsbruck in its mountains
towering high above and around. In its
suggestion TO the traveller il always pres
ages storm. Every moment lone expects
TO hear the peal of the thunder and see the
lightning flash.
THE sALZKANfMERGUT MAGNIFICENT
PARALLELoGRAM.
If one could walk around the Salzkam-
mergut one could be happy. 1t is aparal-
telegram, of which Ischl is almost at the
end of the first side. As its name indi.
Gates it is permeated with salt. The end
which has Beschofshofen for its centre is
more obscure, but finer than all the rest,
since the mountains which form so fine an
amphitheatrs around it do not shut 1t in.
sALzBURG.
Salzburg, which is in the middle Of the
third side of this wonderful parallelogram
is the embodiment of it all. 1t has caves
formed from salt with stalactltes of salt
and one is shot down into these caves in q
toboggan kind of way which is very
quaint and curious. The mountains above
1t are wonderful in arrangement and
splendor. An half dozen different rail-
road lines can reach it so that travellers 60
ing anywhere can strike it. But it always
rains at Salzburg they say. and as luck
would have it, 1t rained there when / ar
rived. People had been waiting for days
to go up the Gaisberg and visit the Konig-
see, which is green and not blue as the
pictures represent it to be-
In the SalZkammergut there Is a charm
ing lake for every mountain and this COM
bined lake and mountain scenery is what
renders it so completely fascinating,
Through the mist one could see the "Hohen
SalZburg" which is fortification with pin
nacle towers built on some heights far
above, ana which in fine weather commands
remarkably fine panorama.
MOZART,
Mozart was born here. There is a house
called the Mozart house where he lived
and another where he was born. 1t is a
singular circumstance that in contrast to
most old houses of composers and authors,
which are usually SO cold and grey and un.
inviting, these houses were both rendered
very cheerful by the presence of great
number of canary birds which filed the
windows and made the whole nelghbor.
hood rejoice by their presence But as IL
continued to rain and the wonderful caves
and lakes and the Gaisberg, were shut up
like box and the clouds were thickening,
l left 1t yelled so sweetly that the noun.
tsins which tower with such grandeur
above it, were like majestic woman
bathed In tears. But after all what beam
| tiful spotwould the traveller choose fof a
| rain-storm? Might it not be Salzburg as
we'll as anywhere, especially as Munich
and the Chiemsee with the mad king Lud
wigs marvellous palaces, were few hours
| ahead.
MUNICH.
What Is Munich noted forP The Ameri-
can schoolmaster might appropriately ask
OF the young geographer, and were not
such an answer tabooed by our New Eng
land prejudices and the Maine Law, he
would truthfully replied. "Bavarian
beer" Good judges say that really there
is no other beer fit to drink but this pro-
duct from Munich. Millions of litres are
consumed in all parts of Europe, the most
Of which, of course, never saw the Bavar-
ian Capital, but all agree, If one would
know what lager beer really is, be must
visit Bavaria and go to the Hof Brauerei
in Munich.
THE HoFBRAUHAUs.
This is the place where General Grant went
and In the rush. had to wash his own beer
mug and draw his own beer. 1t is like the
Bourse of Paris and thing to see. 1t is a
Babel of tongues from all nations, a -four
ishing of hands and general cry for beer.
Men have beer on barrels in the court out
side, in huge brown mugs which hold q
quart. Some hold it high up in the air
above the crowd and try to drink it, and
some few find chance to sit down inside
and quietly sip it. But all is roar and ex-
element ami were it not for the mugs. one
would think, certainly, he was on the
stock exchange at midday.
0Ontial otdubs VIM Who thCh 6OAb5 AOAhN
the world taking in all the sights, was evil
IDENTIFY not one of the favored few who got
a chance to sip his beer in peace and con-
tentment inside. There used to be very
amusing anecdote Of him at this Hof Brau-
erei. A friend invited him to go there as
matter of sight seeing, and when there.
the thing 10 do seemed to them to be 10
take big mug of the article flowing so
freely. Gen. Grant with his usual devotion
| to whatever duty was uppermost after hav-
| ing helped himself. drank the whole litre
| at one draught, they say, and when asked by
| the friends, Aren't you going to have
another one, General" he replied "Good
| gracious much as l could do get thai
| down."
THE SIGHTS OF MUNICH.
But there is a great deal in Munich be-
sides the beer. There are the palaces, tie
picture galleries, the church, the drives
the parks, the statue Bavaria and the PEG
pie.
The Bavaria" seems like our Barthol
dis Liberty Enlightening the World, "as il
stands in similar position, holding Q
wreath instead of a torch, though it is moi
SO large and has no such fine outlook as
our Atlantic coast. 1t Is the summit OF the
very ornate Siegesthor which is Gate
OF Victory" and terminates the Ludwigs
strasse. This gate was memorial from
7 6xxvfrx A.. Al md