Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1891-12-05

MNFlNA 0Lphhns
Each Garment Passes Through Many
Hands iiaioro % l. Ready Tor Wear.
Ia these days when we'll fitting siyl.
ish. comfortable clonks and Jackets Of
good materials may be- bought for very
little money compared with the price
Of cloaks Oh materials that may be- mote
costly. but not moro stylish In cut, tho
wonder T. tiot tho styles are not more
varied Tho styles are morn varied
than those Of tho outer garments for
men, but hundreds OF clotks Of tho
same pattern may be seen la the streets
any day.
Cloabs and jackets are garments on
which women cannot show much orig
lunlity In making them at home, NJ
they cun on dresses, and the styles are.
therefore, ilscd by tho designers ON
ploycd by manufacturers. In many in
stances the style depends on the mate
rial 20 bo used, ~ IL would Zoo useics-
90 design a style with many pufis and
folds for thick aud heavy material
Besides, " "a style be good II Is accept.
able 10 many women, no matter whoth.
or Il be- unsuitable 90 their figure. uf
out of harmony with The rot 4 their
costumes
In making oloak,, whcrc the demand
may be- sometimes for 800 Of a certain
style, each piece of cloth Is thoroughly
examined by experts ia regard TO meas.
ure, texture aud color, aud thon Il Is
spongod by machinery ma.a especially
for that purpose. Al smooth cloths
and those with finished faces aro
spongcd by copper rolls, and tho ma.
chlncry Is 80 arranged tina, from the time
the cloth starts 10 10 over the rolls until
Il Is folded dry Il Is not touched by the
operator The cloth Is then ready for
the cuttors, with all It's impcrfoctions
marked. Each cutter has a separate
check on which have been entered the
particulars about tho cloth, style aud
proper patterns II the quantity be
large enough Tor the cutting machine
It ismarlol and laid In folds. but ,nall
pieces arc cut 10y hand with shears.
After tho cloth has been cut accord.
Ing to the provided patterns the bundles
are carefully compared with tho orders,
aud then ticket Is made for each gar
mont, ON which Is place for each
worker TO put his or her number. so
that complete record is kept of every
hand that works on the garment. The
garments then go TO the scsnors, WHO
are employed the year round 10 seam
them on machines specially adjusted for
that particular work, being provided
with fixed gauge that insures n per.
focily uniform seam. Expert scamers
can work at machines that make 3, 900
stitches n minute.
For the detection Of any possible mis-.
takes and imperlcctlons In the III. the
garments are tried on figures before bo-
Ing sent to tho trlminers. The collars,
cuffs, faclngl. etc, Of each garment are
cut according 10 the style designed. aud
with the main part Of garment sent
TO workman who particularly e1cols
In certain style. After leaving the
ilnisher tho garment "a Inspected again
by the foreman, aud n IL b. not salts.
factory Il goes back to tho workman
for alterations.
After tho making Of buttonholcs and
the sewing ON OF buttons aud orna.
menis the garments go 10 tho prcsscr.
aud from him To the ilnM examiners.
who arc responsible for the NJ and
Workmanship, and who 200 that the
materials and trimmings arc right. and
that any changes that may have boon
ordered to suit certain customers have
been properly made, Then they arc
ready for packing and shipping. Rec.
ords OF tho shape, cloth, trimmings aud
buttons, or amy other parts Of the gar
mont are kept In duplicate, 80 that
copy Of any garment can be made OF
any time. Sometimes garments that
are IN fashion In this part OF the coun.
try for year do not reach some state.
until a year or mora afterwnrd, when
some particular style may be favored
more than another, and tho orders for
Il be larger than those for any other
by turning TO tho records oxnct ,lupll.
Gates Of nuy style can be made AZ any
time, provided the material be Ia the
market. New York Sun.