The Daily bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Hawaii]) 1882-1895, 1891-05-11
A TRIP THROUGH THE UREWERA
COUNTRY.
(By Count Axel Wachtmeister, in Bay
of Plenty Times, Tauranga, N. ~

exclusiveness, that it is sufficient 10
rouse the curiosity of any tourist,
and il was partly from the cause, and
partly in hopes of finding some re-
mains of Maori ancient customs, that
we determined to go through the
country, though everyone advised
us not to go. Our party consisted
of Mr.. and Mrs. Fowler, Mr..
Ballion, myself and Guide Melon
nell. Our first misfortune was
going to Wairoa. The steamer we
were in had to return to Napier with
out being able to land us on the
beach, the entrance to the river being
completely blocked up by high
sandbank. We waited at Napier two
or three days, and then had another
try. Fortunately this time there was
no sea, and we managed to get ashore
in small boat rowed by couple of
natives. A Wagon drove us up to
Walroa, charming little township
situated on the bank of the river.
We employed the day in buying
provisions, tent, ETC., and next morn
ing rode up to Onepoto, at the south
ern end of the Waikaremoana Lake.
The road is excellent all the way, and
towards the end it ascends rapidly up
to the bush, which begins here and
continues right into the Urewera
country for more than so miles. The
scenery was very grand as we ascend
ed and reminded us of certain parts
of the Rockies in America. When
we approached the summit in the
dusk of the evening, we got a view
of the Lake, and the scenery was
superb and never to be forgotten.
Waikaremoana is undoubtedly the
most beautiful lake in New Zealand.
Although it may not possess the
grandeur and ruggedness of Lakes
Te Anau and Manapouri, it has more
of the real picturesque. 1t is sur
rounded by undulating hills, which,
in some parts, are precipitous and
everywhere covered with bush.
The scenery changes as one goes
along the lake. At present the only
way of going over the lake is by "a
canoe. We entered the largest one
(about 60 feet long), and were pad
died over by lot of Urewera ma
tives. We landed in pretty bay
and pitched our tent in the bush.
We passed the first night in the tent,
much annoyed by mosquitoes, and
next morning began the journey on
foot. 1t is 10 miles to the first native
settlement, and the native track such
as it is, is not good enough for
horses. We had six natives with us,
who carried our provisions and
swags, and showed us the way. The
Ureweras had had meeting the
night previously, and resolved to let
us pass through. They did not think
we looked like robbers or gold
miners, especially as we had a lady
in the party, but they still regarded
us with suspicion, and as once l
drew out my pocket-book, came di-
rectly to see what | was doing and
persisted in following us round
everywhere. The weather was wet,
and the track, if it deserves such
name, was hardly visible. We fol-
lowed bllndly our Maori guide, who,
regardless of the comfort of our party,
took us over the hills straight up and
down, and when we got into a valley
where there was large creek, the
Maories told us we should have to
wade up the creek for three miles.
We determined to camp before pro-
ceeding further, as we were being
wet through. We managed to pitch
our tent, lit fire to dry our clothes,
but were soon driven into the tent
by the rain which again began to
fall, and spent chilly night on our
bed of wet and hard cabbage leaves.
Next morning we commenced our
march up the creek, the natives, to
spare themselves the trouble of cut
ting track, having laid the road
right in the creek. We splashed up
as well as we could, Mr.. Fowler car
rying Mrs. Fowler in the worst places.
Sometimes the water was up to our
knees, once or twice up to our waist,
but we at last got through safe and
sound. We had to climb another
steep hill, and at last reached the
top of the Hula range. The weather
was cloudy, SO we unfortunately lost
the view, which is said to be most
extensive. We marched on till
evening and still found ourselves
miles away from our destination.
The rain had nearly ceased, and
when we camped passed more
comfortable night. The weather
turned out fine the following day,
and our spirits rose accordingly.
Two of the Maories went on to an
nounce our arrival, and after having
waded through the last creek, we
found horse waiting to convey Mrs.
Fowler to the settlement. The Ma
cries showed great admiration of the
waihina, as they called Mrs. Fowler,
and never ceased wondering at her
venturing into their wild country.
They anxiously enquired if we had
enough provisions, and said that in
case of need they could go without
for three days. The first settlement
we came to, TIE Mimi, is situated
high up on hill, and has a magnifi-