The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1891-08-09


My diary states that at 2:25 p. M, on July
2, we took the train at Edinburg for London
via York; fare 92s. Sd. We passed through
Durham, at which place, am told, there is an
interesting cathedral. We did not stop, but
we could see the old square-towered church
from the car window, or, as an Englishman
would say, from the window of the railway
carriage" These railway carriages, although
severely critised by most American travellers,
possess, nevertheless, some very pleasant and
convenient features. Each compartment will
accommodate ten or twelve passengers. The
seats extend the whole width of the car,
and when not crowded make an excellent
couch. By giving the guard (conductor) six
pence Smith and often thus secured a whole
compartment for ourselves for our entire
journey This then was like travelling in
special car. We could lunch, lounge, smoke,
talk, pull down the blinds and sleep, arrange
our toilet ETC., in perfect seclusion. If we
wished to lower the windows we could do so
without having dozen fussy people in the
car object If we felt merry we could sing
without jeopardizing our lives What a
comfort it was to feel that we could burst
forth into song-beautiful, simple song-with-
out beng presented with corkscrews bottles.
books and other bits of brio. a brac. Did you
ever hear Smith sings No? Then may say
you have lived in vain. Smith has what l
call an ''unclassified" voice. 1t seems to be
a cross between a high tenor and low bass,
with a little alto on the mothers side and a
few stray soprano notes from an unknown
source. Smith can therefore sing the most
difficult music with perfect ease. He has no
choice OF parts and can sing soprano as well
as bass, alto as we'll as tenor. / have known
him to start in on a high tenor solo and end
with bass passage going as low as fat
His register, like his conscience, is very elias
tic. He can catch an air of the catchy kind
easier than the measles, and he has often been
known to come home after hearing new
opera and sing nearly the whole score from
memory, but invariably had to change lodg-
ings the next morning Modesty forbids me
speaking of our duets. For information ON
this subject l refer you to our last landlady
If she has yet recovered from her attack Of
nervous prostration she will doubtless tell
you how it all happened. Then we could sing
in these railway carriages and be SAFE What
luxury We enIivened the trip between
Edinburg and York with song-mellow, Sc
ductive song-and when the train stopped a
half dozen heads emerged from the windows
nearest ours with: 81 say, guard, l didn't know
this was cattle train, (" ''Deucedly uncomfort-
able riding with menagerie, dontcher know"
"Beastly shame that live stock can't be
shipped by goods train," and similar cruel ex-
pressions.
But we were safe from harm. They We're
locked in and SO were we, and our would-be
assassins chafed like Gagged beasts unable to
get at their prey.
These railway carriages can be emptied in
much shorter time than our American cars.
The former have number of doors-two for
each compartment-for each COACH and when
they are all thrown open its only question
OF few seconds till the passengers are all out;
in the latter whole car load of people must
make their exit through only two doors, and
the result is. where number get out, rather
long tedious waits. Their luggage arrange
ments, however, are extremely unsatisfactory.
l have often wondered why the American
check system has not been adopted in England
and on the Continent, for its superiority over
the systems here in use is manifestly great.
But the English especially are conservative
and loathe to give up their time honored way
of doing things. | believe there is kind of
"booiing system ~ now in use in England by
which one may have his baggage booked"
through to its destination, but this entails a
vast emount of red tape and bother which
our simple check system dispenses with.
We reached York at 7:15 p. m. and i'm
mediately left the station in search of a room
for the night. We had not gone far till we
saw an unpretentious, but withal neat little
house, which displayed " Room-to-let" card
In the little square window. We found the
CollaBe Was hcpt ny any SlucIly lduys very uluy
aud sociable. IL was a cold rainy evening,
and, after showing us our room, she invited us
10 come and sit by cheerful fire she had
lighted In her cosy little parlor. 1t was very
grateful, and while we sat and steamed in
front OF the fire she entertained us by bits of
York history and personal "reminiscences told
In the native Yorkshire dialect. We found
our room to be well kept and orderly, but
rather miniature, The bed occupied the
whole length and about half the width. and
our heads when we stood perfectly erect
would touch the ceiling. The whole house
seemed TO have been built for a family of
dolls. But consistency reigned in that house
hold, for II the room was small SO was the
rent. When We called for our bill the next
morniag we were told 1t would be nine pence
(about lscts) each, and we asked herif she had
not made mistake, but she assured us she
Deyer charged more, and we went ON our way
rejoicing. To my liking York has the most
magnificent cathedral in England. don't re-
member the dimensions, but it is one of the
largest In Britain. 1t Is crueiform in shape
with wide transcept, nave and aisles. 1t stands
IN an open lawn and from every point presents
an imposing view. Its thousands of turrets
minarets, and spires, its rich and elaborate
carving, its numerous grotesque gargoyles, its
magnificent windows, its massive walls, its
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