The Corvallis gazette. [volume] (Corvallis, Or.) 1862-1899, 1891-03-06
PLANTING PRUNES.

In writing on this subject do not claint :.
to be an expert, but, rather, Sffsft try to
summarize from the methods and experiences
of the most successful growers. The first
thing is the tree. Seme growers prefer
small tree three or four feet high; others
are successful with large ones from five to-
seven feet high. I am inclined to the me.
dlum-a well. balanced tree four or five feet
high, one year from Seeding stock. Good
results are obtained, however, by the ad.
vocates of both sizes. If you have land
that remains wet and cold any length of
time the prime should be upon Myroblan
stock. In well drained soils mot too dry,
the peach stock is the favorite. In dry;
gravelly soils the almond stock j. best, but
to get the full advantage of its deep grow.
ing roots it should be grown from the seed
where it is going to stand. If grown in
the nursery and transplanted much of the
advantage is lost. foi it is almost impossible
to dig them up properly unless quite small.
The ground should be we'll plowed and
narrowed. IF it can be cultivated in corn
year before the planting of the orchard it
is all the better.
If a rich deep soil it is not necessary to
dig large holes for the trees, just large
enough to place the tree the same depth it
grew i'll the nursery and spread the roots
naturally.
In poor shallow soils it pays to put labor
into digging large holes, at least three feet
wide and three feet deep. The top soil
should be used for filling and the poor soil
from the hole scattered. After the tree is
placed in position, and the roots spread
naturally, the soil should be thrown in until
they are covered, then tramp closely down.
1t is essential that the soil should be close
around the rootsj neglect of this precau-
tion has caused the death of many trees.
A bucket of water around the roots of each
! tree is an extra precaution in planting,
which if dry will pay person planting a
few trees.
There are many plans for laying off land
for planting. One of the simplest is as fol-.
lows: Have line or wire the width of the
field; with a twenty-foot pole measure along
the line sticking stakes for the trees. At
right angles to the end of this line lay off
the line along the length of the field Putting
stakes as before, and you will have your
field lsid off twenty feet each way.
Different orcharaists vary IS to the dis
tance apart it is best to plant, but twenty
feet each way is the rule. On uplands this
is full far, while ON lowlands it may in time
be too close. In planting, piece of board
five or six feet long is used, notched in the
middle and at the ends. This is laid with
the middle notch at the stake: A stake is
driven at each end, the stake withdrawn
and the hole dug Then the board replac.
ed and the central notch marks the exact
place to set the tree. In setting. two men
can work best. One holds the tree in posi-
! ton while the other works the earth
| around.
Towards spring the trees sIfonld be cut
down to from twelve to twenty inches of
the ground and made to form WELL bal.
anced head at that point. This is to shade
the stock as well as to keep the tres low for
comes two shakes should be driven in to-
shade the south and west sides of the
trunk. Sun burning ruins many a tree.
If rabbits trouble, either the tree must be-
wrapped or the rabbits poisoned. The land
should be thoroughly cultivated, and thefs
is no danger of overriding it. Next the
tree the soil should be spaded. l sifot4d
advise against planting any crop between
the trees. 1t will be n loss in the long run.
Grain or hay should never be tried. Corn
is the least harmful
| The prune tree does not require mtfCat
pruning. The fruit is borne on the side
spurs The most pruning that is needed is
| in cutting out of interfering branches and
once in two years cutting ia the long
growth. CARL PuRDY, in Alta.
|