The critic. (Washington, D.C.) 1890-1891, 1891-03-05
In the sistine Chapel.

'fffffItN"fNtt Az - ttNNNtftfNf -tNfUCNtf
RoNE, Feb. I'VE have just returned
from the grand mass celebrated in the
Sistnc Chapel on the anniversary of the
death of Plus H., for which we were so
fortunate as TO obtain tickets through
Count C., one Of the Pope's guard of
MOBILES. only two or three such services
are held in the Sistine Chapel during the
wear, and very few besides the clergy and
officials can he admitted. so we considered
ourselves exceptionally favored. We were
cautioned to go early, aud at $3.50 o'clock
we were on the Scala Rega waiting TO
ascend TO the chapel.
on the stairway, dressed in the wonderful
combination Of red, blue and yellow, de-
signed for them by Michael Angelo,
which deiies description. They carry
spears about six feet long, which look as
il they might have come out OF the Tower
of London, and are altogether most
unique.
We found quite crowd already waiting,
the ladies in black with black lace wells
on their heads, the men in dress coats and
white cravats. When the signal was given
there was grand rush up the staircase,
and as we were among the first we got ex-
cellent places in the chapel, on benches
directly behind those reserved for the dip
lomatic ladies.
We DWl u lOllH llIlt W Witil uS tiit OHt
was late and mass did not really begin
until II, but we were well entertained
watching the various celebrities arrive
and learning who they all were, and in
enjoying the beautiful chapel. The sun
shine could not have been brighter, and
we had fine chance TO study the beauti-
full paintings. An Italian lady next MS
knew all the people and told us who they
were. The diplomates were simply gor-
geous. Some in blue and gold, others IN
brilliant scarlet with various orders and
decorations; some In blue and silver, alto
gether n dazzling collection of uniforms.
Then TO add to the picture, the aisle was
lined with the Swiss guard and many of
the Popes own guard were on duty. or
these latter there seem to he three grades;
the lowest wear dress suits, with the white
expanse of shirt front covered with very
beautiful gold chains, fastened together
in a curious way, almost like harness,
also broad rcd ribbon.
Then come the Camerinia in black short
clothes, black silk stockings and pumps
with buckles; black cloth coats with a
great deal of black velvet let in, the tops
Of the sleeves large pufrs of black velvet.
plain cloth below, and deep cuffs OF old
lace; velvet belt, with silver buckle and
sword, and black velvet cape gracefully
draped over the left shoulder. Magniti-
cent gold chains around the neck, or
rather around the shoulders; then above
red ribbon and above that a very full
white ruff, most picturesque and becom-
ing Then come those who are nearest
the Pope. They look more like soldiers,
wearing tightly buttoned coats with gold
epaulets great band of gold across the
chest and helmets of gold and silver, very,
very magnificent, but not so becoming as
the dress of the Camerinia.
Soon the Church digntaries began to
arrive. Between thirty and forty cardi
nails in long purple, each with a train
bearer, ermine capes and scarlet caps.
Many bishops and all the orders of monks
and il was soon crowded-a wonderful
mass of color, to which the ladies, all in
black, made good contrast. Just before
the Pope arrived the servants of his house
hold came in. They were all in red Of a
splendid color, silk stockings, knee
breeches of velvet brocade all of the
same shade of red; long coats of same.
bnck aud front and sleeves of plain red
silk; at the collar two long lace tabs,
| pieces about three inches wide and seven
| or eight long
| Now to the service. The Pope entered
| through a small door, attended by some
| of his guard and number of cardinals.
| They all knelt in front of the altar; then
| the Pope, surrounded by cardinals bear
| lIp Ills tTalI, tSteIlutl his tITOHc. ne
| was dressed in white with a very magniii-
| cent red cape; think it is something
| like the one Father Brown wears, only
| very, very long. On his head a silver
| mitre.
| As soon rs he was seated mass was said
| by four bishops, all in green and gold;
| then came the music, the finest we have
heard-only voices, no instruments. The
Pope took a small part Of the service and
| his voice rang out clear and strong, but he
looks very frail and feeble. Heis 80. When
the host was raised every one in the build.
ing knelt, and there was profound silence
"a most impressive moment.
The service lasted about an hour and
| then the Pope left as he came. 1t was a
beautiful sight in the ante-room as we
passed out; a company Of the Pope's sol
diers were drawn up on either side, pre-
senting arms, and many of the diplomats
and clericals standing about-such pic
ture as only this old world could give us.