The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-07-05
my heart.

- ---@--S1 trife shall not win
my heart
Yet it is not The sugar that's thrown in be
tween
Nor the peel OF the lemon SO candied and
IT'S not the rich cream that's whipped up by
the mill
Oh, no, it is something more exquisite still
The great meaning of dessert is to offer
something more exquisite still" And II
is the province of the housekeeper, be she
young or old, to study how this can be done.
Nothing in European dinners can com
pare with the American custards, buildings
and pies. We are accused as nation OF
having eaten too many sweets and 10 nave
ruined our teeth thereby, but who that has
lsnguished in England over the insipid
desserts at hotels and the tooth sharpeners
called "sweets," meaning tarts as sour as
an east wind, has not
SIGHED FOR AN AMERICAN PET
In Paris the cakes are pretty to look at,
but oh how they break their promise when
you eat them. Nothing but sweetened
white of egg. One thing they surpass us
in-omelette SOItfee. and gateau st. Honore
is good, but with that word of praise we
dismiss the great French nation.
Just look at our grand list Of fruit
desserts, apple charlotte, apricots with
rice, banana charlotte, banana fritters,
blackberry shortcake, strawberry short
cake, velvet cream with strawberries (sh y,
fresh pineapples in Jelly, frozen bananas,
frozen peaches in cream, orange cocoanut
salad, orange salad, peach fritters, peach
meringue, peach shortcake, plum salad.
salad of mixed fruit sliced pears with
whipped cream; stewed pears, plain, and
pumpkin pie But on there is ''some-
thing more exquisite still" and that is an
apple pie.
OF ali the pies ever made. the apple is still the
sweetest,
Cut and come again, the syrup upward spring
While life and taste remain, my:heart to thee is
clingng.
Who q pie would make, first his apple slice s.
Then be ought to take some cloves, the best Of
spices,
Crate some lemon rind butter add discreetly,
Then some sugar miX-but mind the pie-not
made too sweetly.
II a cook of taste. be complete to make it.
In the finest paste Will inclose and bake it,"
After years of foreign travel have never
met dish so perfect as the American ap-
pie pie can be, with cream.
THEN TO LOOK AT OUR PUDDINGs.
They are richer, sweeter, more varied
than any in the world. The English plum
pudding excepted. This is a ponderous
dainty, which few can eat. 1t looks well
when dressed with holly, lighted up, but
it is not to be eaten every day. Baked
bread pudding, carrot pudding exceed
ingly delicate), chocolate pudding, cold
cabinet pudding, boiled rice pudding with
custar6 sauce, poor mans rice pudding,
green apple pudding, Indian pudding,
minute pudding, tapioca pudding, and all
the custards boiled and baked with infinite
oxine Of flow ntrn dow
luxuries, and they are very great ones, of
the American table.
One charming thing about dessert and
American dishes, is that ladies can make
them. They DO not flush the face or de-
range the white apron. They are pleasant
things to daily with, milk and eggs, and
spice and sugar.
A model kitchen is every lady's delight
in these days of tiles and marble pastry
boards and modern improvements, what
pretty things kitchens are.
/. The model dairy, too, with its upright
milk pans, in which the cream is marked
off by neat little thermometers, the fire
brick floor, the GOODNESS and the neatness
of it, and sometimes a stream of fresh
water flowing under the floor, as the river
runs under the chateau Of Chenonceary,
where Diana de Potter dressed her golden
hair.
In the model kitchen, the exquisite range,
WIN DultCItC ut CUtSGtf, eN6TN
brilliant saucepan seeming to say: Come
and cook in me-" every porcelain-lined pan
urging upon one the necessity of stewinP
nectarines in white sugar, every bright can
suggesting the word conserve" which
always makes the mouth water, every cat-
ter of the skewers saying: Dainty dishes,
come and make me.'' All this is quite
FASCINATING TO AN AMATEUR.
No pretty woman, if she did but know it,
Is ever so pretty as when she is playing
cook, and doing it well. The clean white
apron, the short, clean cambria gown, the
little cap, the white bare arms. Such glori-
fed creams and follies, pies and charlotte
russo; such cakes and such buildings as fall
from such fingers-ambrosial food.
There is great passion in the properly
regulated female heart for the Clearly part
of the household work. The love of a dairy
is part of the business of her rank with
many a duchess. In our country, where
ladies are compelled to put a hand once
perhaps too often, owing TO the insufficiency
of servants, to the cooking, 1t is less pas
time, and q knowledge of IL is indispensable.
To cook a heavy dinner in hot weather, to
wash the dishes afterwards, this is sober
prose, and by a very dull author; but to
make the dessert, this is poetry. In the
early morning the hostess should go into
her neat dairy and skim the cream-it will
prepare all things for the desserts OF the
dsy She will make her well-favored
custard and set it in the e-chest She
will place her compete Of pears securely on .
q high shelf away from that ubiquitous cat,
who has in most families so remarkable
and SO irrepressible an appetite.
Then she should make visit to the
kitchen before dinner to see to it that the
roast birds are garnished with water cress,
that the vegetables ere prepared, that the
dishes are without smear on their lower
surface, all this attention making good
servants and very good dinners.
IL THE MATTER OF FLAvoRING
the colored race have Us at disadvantage.
ANY colored cook can distance her ''mlssus"
there. This highly gifted race seem to
have sixth sense on the subject of fiavors
The rich tropical nature breaks out in
"reminiscences of orange blossoms, pine
apple. guava cocoanut and Mandarin
orange. Never can the descendants of the
moor. half starved, frozen exiles of Ply
mouth rock hope to achieve such custards
and buildings as these Ethiops pour out.
II is as if some luxurious and beneficent
gift had left US when we were made poets
orators, philosophers, preachers and
authors-when we were given what we
proudly term a higher intelligence
who would not exchange all the cold
intellectual supremacy of |
" Mich we boast for that luscious gift of |
making pies and buildings "a rdrio."
The making Of pastry is so delicate and |
40 varied that we can only say: Approach |
IL with cold hands, cold water and roll it on |
4 marble slab; then bake it in q hot oven. |
Learn 70 stew well. Stew your fruit in |
a porcelain stew pan before putting it in |
your tarts. 1t is one of the most whole