The Portland daily press., 1891-11-11
Especial Correspondence of the press.1

FROM constance to LnnSbuCk-T he
Arlbery INSTRUMENTATION
In the Tyrol.
Especial Correspondence of the Press.1
BALE, Oct. Is, 1891.
June Is the month Of transition all over
the world. People are weary then of the
long winter which has shut them in. and
OF the tfallacieus spring which is always
full OF false promises. In warmer climate
people also think of change and sigh for
northern breezes Each year new resorts
spring up and new people fud fresh de-
light in the old places and so the ball keeps
moving.
But there are some regions THAT never
grow old or hackneyed but always are a
delight to all, of which the Tyrolean region
is perhaps the most charming. This year
the chill from the mountains had lasted
longer than usual and 1t was July before
people left their homes as usual to ;explore
new avenues OF delight and enjoyment.
THE BHINE FALL AT sCHAFFHAUsEN.
1t was early In one of these long summer
days that started out making the Rhine
Fall at Schaffhausen my objective point.
The European think they have Niagara.
they like to compare these Rhine Falls
with our great waters. But as there is but
one Lake Superior, one Mount Blanc, one
Westminster Abbey and one st. Peters so
there will never be but one Niagara.
The recent discovery of the Grand Falls
by our Bowdoin boys proves that the West
ern Hemisphere has still great resources
but It also proves that Niagara will always
be the king of waters.
These Falls of Schaffhausen are peculiar
~ beautiful but they are In no sense to be
compared to our mamouth waters because
they have hardly anything in common.
The one is vast and mighty, the other small
and picturesque. Schaffhausen Falls foams
and cuddles. Niagara rushes and roars.
Scnafhausen leaves no mighty impression
but 1t pleases. 1t lures the Imagination
and charms the thought. Its surge is like
cream, its foam Is soft as elder down and
warm as wool.
Schatfhausen, like Niagara, has its cave
OF the wind which takes away the breath.
IL strikes more rocks and has more of the
bridal veil film, which suggests to the i'm
aglnation thousands of brides walking in
the mist proudly away into the deep water
beyond TO return no more as brides, Where
the flmy waters separate at Schaffhausen
the unwritten history of a million bridal
fOllo Is I6du.
CONSTANCE AND LAKE OF CONSTANCE.
But in spite Of all It's destinations I left
Schaffhausen in the afternoon and went on
to Constance. Here there is the Lake of
Constance the house where Huss lived the
monastery where he was confined and the
memorial Of his martyrdom and this is all
OF Constance except the entrance of Fred
erick Barbarossa, in painting on the out
side Of the Town Hall. This house of
Huss is ornamented by two of his busts,
one bearing the date 1415 the other 1873.
They are In relief and both are very classic
In their outline. The house Is old but
commonplace. The Monastery on an is
land by the margin of the lake is very
picturesque. The monument IS only a
rough granite boulder, smoothed In the
centre and bears the date of his condem-
nation and execution, 1t is covered with
ivy and not so mournful as such memorials
usually are. These old martyrs had no
idea in what way they were to confer
boon on posterity In dying as they did for
were 1t not for Huss, the tourist would pass
Constance Itself by. But the lake is al
not the beauty of the Italian and Austrian
lakes nor the romantic charm of many
other of the Swiss lakes but 1t is altogether
fine and like an ocean In extent and Ca
pacity. For do not three nations own 1t
and five principalities govern 1t. In one
Europe out on parade. If one have the time
and inclination.
THE ROYALTY OF wURTEMBQRG.
The royal families of these different ma
lions have villas on this lake and they
visitlback and forth in the summer months
by means of the elegant steamers which
ply everywhere along its banks. We
CHANGED to meet one of these families and
their suite when taking an afternoon sail
from ROhrschach In Switzerland to
BregenZ In Austria.
We had landed and were exploring Aus
trian territory when becoming weary we
seated ourselves on settee partially va
cant, In one of the parks near the steamers
landing. We soon discovered that two
ladies on the same seat were the object of
unusual attention from the public who
bowed and curtseyed as they passed and
the people accord to royalty.
When we were again on BOARD the fine
steamer to return we found the lady with
her husband and family In the saloon on
deck as we entered. They were the Prince
and Princess Of Wurtemburg with their
family and entire suite, going to spend the
Sabbath at another royal villa at ROhrs-
chach. There were some fresh looking
girls with them one of whom am sure was
their daughter, she had the elastic step of
youth and health in place of the languid
and lactadaisical air which many Of our
young girls of society so early assume.
THE ROUTE FROM CONSTANCE TO INNS
BRUCK.
The route from Constance through the
lake to Bregenz, and hence by rail to Inn
sbruck in the Tyrol, passes through the
Arlberg tunnel. 1t is very interesting.
though in midsummer 1t is very hot In the
valleys, especially before one reaches the
tunnel. This Arlberg tunnel is the second
In length In the world, the st. GOthard be-
Ing the longest. / timea the length of the
Arlberg and found we had been nineteen
minutes In IL; long enough to have quite q
nap when one Is weary from excessive
5urneying. In a fast train l once passed
through the Gothard in twenty minutes.
The people in this part Of Austria are
more primitive than elsewhere, not In the
sense OF being antiquated, but of being I'M
cultured. All the women werenet in the
fields haying. l saw only one Han among
them all, and wondered what hard work
the men were finding to do elsewhere since
they left this pleasant pastime of raking
ana pitching In the hot sun to their better
halves.
l saw party of these Austrians just
boarding the train, who, think, were
well-to-do farmers of the better class. The
party consisted of what seemed the old
father and mother, the daughte-in-law
with little grandchild and an pngainly
married daughter Of almost any age.
;, When there was whistle, the child,
IKE any baby, cr0wed and said something
In his childish dialect, very pleasing to his
mother and grandparents for babies and
Kittens are alike all over the world, as we'll
as Violets and pansies. 1t wass a queer
party the daughter was boiling junk OF
something Qor the Germans always eat
a meal at four O'Clock, wherever they are).
IL was hard, like dried beef, or dark dried
sausage, which they have In some Of these
regions. have heard since that they call
II duree LGndjdgeT, "a dried policeman" a
name quite significant of that functionary.
~ was extremely redolent of garlic as she
nacKe9 II OIL with albig farmers knife and
SSnnereu the same Junk to her companions.
one was very uncouth In her manners and
appeared more v0raciOus than her semi
Ienned sister-in-law, who seemed to prefer
the plum cake.
THE ARLBERY ALPS.
One feels almost surfeited travelling so
long amidst such lofty mountain scenery.
IL seems almost more than one can bear,
this mighty, continuous chain. whose
peaks are like domes and spires amidst the
clouds. Many Of them are covered with
perpetual snow, They are not altogether
so beautiful as the Bernese OberIand or
the Alps of the Engardine, but thew are
mn TnwtAI e.