Morning journal and courier., 1891-08-13
oN TuE mIcHrx DEEp.



 house, Seal Harbor, Mount Desert, were Commander A. s. Crowninshield, U. S. | N., his wife and son, bright boy of much | promise. It often comes about when | away among strangers one meets people l who know some of one's friends, and l these new kinsmen of mine at Washing ton and an another friend, formerly of Geneva, N Y., but now a well-known ed ucator in Connecticut, and so very pleas ant acquaintance grew up easily, and in the vited to go as guest of Commander Q. and see the coast of Maine and light houses east of Mt. Desert to the last one in our service; it being his particular busi- ness, as government inspector of light houses, ouce a quarter to inspect them, to receive reports and know exactly about every thing, and make his own re- ports to the proper department. To me it was an unthought of and unexpected pleasure and I was more than glad to go.
 The inspector uses the light service ship as landsman uses a carriage, to go when he wishes on business of his department The ship has it's own captain, officers and crew, and when not needed by the inspec- tor there is very much other work to be done, some of which also combines with these quarterly trips. The inspector is gentleman and so is the captain. Good will and good understanding between them; also with all on board. Courtesy and good manners prevail throughout all sections of the vessel, as found, and nl nd anrf of gratitude to all of them. 'The Iris is the name of that ship, William Johnson, captain; MT. Green, mate; Mir. Huston, engineer; an assistant engineer, also Dennis was cabin boy; and then six or more able bodied seamen. There is a quarter deck cabin, half in the hold, half above, lighted with @ skylight also by small round windows on sides. Said cabin has two state rooms about seven feet square and an ample dining room and sit ting room combined, fitted with good table, chairs, divans, cupboards, in fact very neat and cozy arrangement through out. Passing forward on the main deck next comes the engine room where a vertical engine of eighty horse power drives stern wheel or screw and attains speed of eight or ten knots an hour. Forward of that is the stewards galley. Still forward the officers cabin with staterooms for those men, and over all that sort of hurricane deck and pilot house, as usual well up in front. A good smokestack came up from furnaces and the needed coal was some where down in the hold. I did not go everywhere but might have done so and did go down into the forecastle where the seamen have their cabin and mess room and hunks around the sides and so had a chat with them-or at any time on deck, as we liked.
 The Iris carries two masts. The forward mast is rigged with a derrick boom and strong pulleys and ropes that are worked by windlass connected with the engine. The boom swings over the forward deck and has very important part to play in the work of the Iris, which will be noted in due time. The little ship is about 130 feet long; her mast "rake" little. Her hull is black; the upper woodwork light In fact, she looks trim and neat and kept nicely washed and everything ship shape. A staunch little ship she is to go on dan gerous coast. Probably her captain, mate and other men know that coast better than almost any other men from long working thereon.
 You would think so if you went into the pilot house as freely as I did. Saw their numerous charts and watched the captain or the mate at the wheel; asked about everything you wished to know, and found men so willing to tell landsman very much new to him. Because the Iris goes in and out and all along the coast on 8 great deal of work beside these quarterly visits, these men know the coast like 8 book. But how is it in fog, and heavy sea running, and tide that rises twelve feet and more, and dangerous channels and dangerous currents, much stronger | ~c- c.-1I narrative will tell how they pilot, for in the three days had a good chance to see for myself and remember much about it still. -~
 One very pleasant day, early in October, took my first lesson. We left Sea Side house about 6 a. m. The seamen had a boat ashore and took the commander and myself and such light luggage as we needed with us, and soon had us aboard the Iris Steam was up, and away we went out of Seal harbor, past Clement Point eastward, in the beautiful light of early morning Some few clouds of changing tints. Pres ently we pass East Bunkers' ledge on our right, where the waters are always foaming, but in easterly storms they are delight to see from Mt. Deserts south rocky shore. Six miles south lies Bakers Island lighthouse that will be taken on our return. It's light we always see from Seal Harbor as soon as the sun goes down on the edge of the ocean. The great pillows come in there in a wonderful way and their nearly spent force searches even Seal Harbor. A life saving station on the eastern end of an island nearer to us than Bakers island and from the way the waters always foam along those rocky shores in any storm, much need of such station there is. It is dangerous place.
 All the steamers to Bar Harbor usually run between E. Bunker's ledge, one-third of mile off, and Mt. Desert. Soon we go by Hunters cave, a charming place, to visit, as I found later on. Next Otter creek, an inlet running into the island some distance; and now we have turned the point and Otter Cliff is near us on our left-100 feet high, and well worth visit by land. A sort of bay sets in between that and Great Head, half mile mortimer ly. We are now in Frenchman's Bay, which is five or six miles wide. Great Head is a mass of rock we'll named; simply to see it's photo affords you sort of sur prise.
 For ages unknown that mass of rock now wrinkied and rugged like an old mans face which shows no sign of giving out for lack of vigor. Yes! it has bathed not for thousands of days, but for thou sands of years and looks as if it might battle the sea forever. It must be eighty feet high or more. How would like to stand on Otter Gig in southerly storm and see the great pillows strike Great Head and fairly cover it with spray. Be- sides passing it several times T. went very close to it once in the little steamer Rock land and was more impressed than ever with the majesty of Great Head. As Bis mark has head or Von Moltke or Glad stone or any similarly great man of years has head to be noticed among men so Great Head is one of the notable feat ures of Mt. Desert. Between Otter Cliff and Great Head, one gets from the sea a very fine view of Greene Mountain and Dry Mountain. While beyond Great Head to north and west, Newport Mt, 1000 feet high, very rock-rugged and precipitous towards the sea with the rocky coast line below picturesque to degree unsurpassed, make that part of the trip to Bar Harbor by water indispensable to anyone who wishes to see Mt Desert. Do not go by rail; or at least take that view by the steamer from Bar Harbor to South west harbor and return, going up past it gives the most striking view.
 Somewhere beyond Great Head one pass es Schooner Head, Anemone Cave and C,,o74;n, uo,, Tba Horp upo1to on1y