The National tribune., 1891-07-02


northern town of tIeasHqie world called Ham
meriest, which we Tsarhsd the next morning
early. This town is not much % the south Of
North Cape in latitude, and our course to it
was only little TO the south of west.
Alter spending most OF a day in this we'll
harborci and well-sheltercd but active little
town, surrounded By mountains and fringed
on the water side with masts bearing English.
German, Danish. and Russian c0ors, and
ing these ships from distant ports all loading
with fish Of all sorts, Kinds, and sizes. fresh
from the Arctic seas We again weighed anchor,
and, taking a long, lingering look at the iuhos-
pilhble peaks and crags, the rocky Islands ana
cold green sea Of the frigid North, our Prov
was turned TO the southwark aud the warmer
ci!mcs.
AT IL o'clock we steamed into an opening
between the great Islands looking out still
upon the Arctic Ocean, and remained with
little or no motion until after the midnight
gun. taking from this point our last view Of the
Midnight sun in all its glory; the sea tiuged
with all the varied hurs, from purple to gold
aud crimson. aud the sky res9lendent with all
the colUrs oi a magnificent sunset, both gather
ing aud redectiug
EVER CHANGING sPLESDORs
from the glowing disc Of the SUM- now lowering
toward the horizon bu, never reaching IT, The
whole scene was one Of wonderful beauty ana
impres,ivcness.
sun commenced 10 rise again from its lowest
point directly IN the north the Domino turned
away 20 the southwark, and alter many good
ty look At this scene OF btwildUTiug cuclant-
ment we retired ono by one 10 our siatcropms
I at about l o'clock in the morning, and bade
a final adIcu 10 tho land Of the Midnight sun.
In this Norway Journey the decidedly b,st
WAS reserved TO the last Our return trip
was quite changed from the outward voyage.
but what did II matter whether VIC were Ua
one side or the other Of an island, or which Of
two Cords, with unpronuunceabe names, wo
were exploring, when the features o. both
were almost the same? Passing over, therefore,
the principal part Of the southern trip, there
are, nevertheless, two Gords aud one valley
which are exceptionally grand aud deserving
of particular notice.
These arc the Lagne Fiord, the Hardanger
Fiord, and the Nacrodal. Up the first of these
the Lagne Fjofd. we steamed to ITS very
head, and anchored there for day. This
ford is 40 miles lOng-the same distance as
from New York to Albany; and to say that
there are very few parts OF 1t As tame as the
Highlands Of the Hudson is, / am sure, very
safe statement.
Many times ] tried to imagine the Storm
I King or DUnderbcrg near u.s. and am certain
! would not have looked at them. lt was
more like sailing through an
ANCIENT FIssURE
Of the rocks which had split such range Of
mountains as the Caisilills, leaving their pre-
/ cip'ous sides next to the dark-green sea- water
which had flowed in and filed il TO an unknown
/ depth. As higher mountains on either SIDE
I rise behind those next 70 the ijOrd-mOuutains
/ covered with snow aud glacicrs-sO an immense
watershed is formed, which pours its floods
over the precipicos and into the DOrds at every
turn.
was tempted at one place 10 abandon for a
moment the sentimental for the statistical
4 view. aud / counted 20 waterfalls at one tinic,
I not one OF which WAS more than mile or 4
mile aud a half away. These falls AVERAGED
at least 1000 feet in higs, and IN volume vary
/ from a few feet in width to as much as 80.
Very near the steamer, and In full view j. a
4 waterfall called the kilefoss II is over 500
\ feet hiah, and the first leap Of the water is
t about 500 feet. IL then barely touches the face
\ OF the prccipcr, and 50 on from ledge q ledge.
\ and IN as almost perpendicular course until IL
reaches the bottom. Tho highest cataract in
I this ford is over 1900 feet and has large .
/ volume Of water as the Gicsbach
The liardangcr Eiord, which We next ascended
\ 10 is head, distance Of - or 100 miles. IS
HEvNED III By MOUNTAINS
! from 1000 to $500 feet high, and in some
/ places narrOws down 10 only go or 300 feet in
/ width, hut generally il IS wider. better wooded
/ between the peaks aud less sOmber in its ap-
pcarance than the other Goris.
Az the head u this Jorl is a great glacier,
! coming almost down 10 the sea, which visited
I ani noticed among other things that the stream
/ flowing from t was white with silt like those
OF Switzerland. From this point | travelled
. inland about = miles TO see two Of the largest
. calaTacts in Norway. They were facing each
other on either side Of narrow valley about
200 feet wide.
Their hight did not learn, but should Judge
/ that they are about five times as high as
+. Sull IL d:d not pay one Tor the trouble. for by
this time had become sltiatsd with all kinds
OF waterfalls. and though / saw hundreds
/ afterwards hardly looked at any except those
of the NaeTOial, which a few days later
4 visited.
All tho magnificent scenery Of Norway cal
inmates, ! think. in tho Naerodal 1t is very
much like the Yosemite. and fully its equal in
subIimiiy aud extent, aud is more attractive
The sides OF the valley are precipitous, and
from 1000 10 5000 feet in hight, aud cataracts
| fall from the very top. 10 is not wider on an
| average, aud in some places not so wide as the
| Yosemite, and SO the effect is enhanced in
grandeur by the constant nearness Of these
TOWERING CLIFFS.
This was the most awe-inspiring scenery
had ever seen. except, perhaps, the Yos-
emte, aud i think IL even more sublime
and wonderful than that grand valley Of the
West which is acknowledged by all to stand in
the first rank for beauty aud grandeur Ii is
entered at one end, almost or quite ON G level
with the sea- aud 40 the other the summit is
reached by good a carriage road as any found
ia the passes Of the Alps, which, however is "a
perfect zg-zaE, doubling upon itself 20 times
ia tho ascent, and IN several places as wild and
fearful as the dizziest part Of the Tcle SOr.
/ came down this road from the mountains
above into the valley, passed out Of t on the
great Longi Fjord, at the head OF which tho
NaerCda begins. At this point too ! com
menc,d m overland trip across the whole width
OF Norway 10 Chris,iiuia, aud IL was like taking
Journey of that length through The hear. or
the White Mountains or the Allegauie5, and
took Gyo days for its accomplishment.
The longest trip took at any ono time with
one car0le and pony, was $50 miles or, rs dis
tances are measured IN Norway. 2}S .sll0mutcis.
This road led in its course over oIe pass ne
tween 800 and 400 feet high, aud gave uphill
grade FOR the iil,t 60 miles; then rapidly Do.
scending into valley il rose again over another
pass Of about 800 feet. The pony passed over
this
ENTIRE DISTANCE,
drawing the carioIe driver, myself, and about
90 pounds Of luggage. We started at . im tho
morning aud on the third day ended the Jour
ney at . in the evening. This pony, like all
tho Norway horses was only 10 or IL hands
high, and would not have weighed more than
go or zoo pounds. IL was u journey which
very few American horses could have per
formed in Eve days, yet this pony did il with