The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-06-07
THE QUEENS TASTE.
Mrs. John Sherwood Writes on
How Royalty Entertains.
LOUIS XIV. WAS MAGNIFICENT.
Queen Anne Consulted Her Cook-Louis
xvIII.'s acknowledgements at
the Court OF st. James.

tCoPYRIeHT, 1891, BY N. Z. ". SHERWOOD
Thrones. nominations, princedoms. virtues,
powers"
When we approach the subject of royal
entertainments, we cannot but feel that
the best OF us are at disadvantage. They
have palaces and retainers furnished for
them. They have purse which knows
no end. They are either by the divine
right, or by lucky chance, the personages
of the hour. 1t is only when one of them
loses his head or is forced to abdicate, or
falls by the assassin's dagger, that they
approach at all our common humanity.
Doubtless TO them, entertaining being
perfunctory affair, it becomes very tedious.
Pomp is not an amusing circumstance
and they get so tired of it all that when off
duty kings and queens are usually the
most simple of mortals. The 'age of
strut has passed away. No one dares
much to assume the pufiness of Louis
XIV. or George Nv.
Royal entertainments, however. have
this advantage: they open to the observer
the historical palace, and the pictures,
gems of art, and interesting collections of
which palaces are the great conservators.
1t seems that Louis XIV, called LIE
Grand Monarque-Louis, the magnificent,
was q master of the art of entertaining.
Under him the science of giving banquets
received in common with the other
sciences great progressive impulse. There
still remains some memory of these festi-
walls, which all Europe went to see, and
these tournaments, where for the last
time shone the lances, and the knightly
suits of armor
The festivals always ended with a sump-
tuoGs banquet, where were displayed huge
center-pieces of gold and silver, painting
and sculpture and enamel, all being tribu-
tary to the hero of the occasion.
This fashion made the fame of Benven-
uto Cellini in Italy in the previous CEN
fury. Today monarchs content themselves
with having these center pieces of cake.
sugar or ices. There viii be no record of
their great feasts for future ages.
Toward the end of the reign of Louis
XIV, the cook, the Gordon bleu" re-
ceived favorable notice, his name was
written beside that of his patron, he was
called in after dinner. 1t is mentioned in
some of the English memoirs that this
fashion was not unknown so lately as fifty
years ago in great houses in England,
where the cook was called in in his white
cap and apron, publicly thanked for his
efforts and glass of wine offered him by
his master, all the company drinking his
health.
This must have had an excellent effect
on the art of gastronomy.
Nine. de Maintenon, whose gloomy
sway over the old king reduced the gay
court to the loneliness of an empty
cathedral, threw wet napkin on the sci
ence of good eating, and put out the
kitchen fires for season.
Queen Anne, however, was fond of good
cheer, and consulted with her cook.
Many cookery books have this qualifica-
ton, latter Qneen Anne's fashion,"
Under the Regent Orleans, q princely
prince, in spite of his faults, the art of
good eating and entertaining was revived:
and he has left a reputation for pioues of
superlative delicacy, matelops of tempt.
ing quality and turkey superbly stuffed.
The reign of Louis XIV. was equally
favorable to the art of entertaining. The
eighteen years of peace had made France
rich, spirit of conviviality was difused
amongst all classes. And the proper set
ting of the table, the order, neatness and
elegance as essentials of we'll ordered
meal date from this reign. 1t is from this
period that the history of the petit supers
de Choisy begins. We need hardly go into
that history of all that was reckless, witty.
gay and dissolute in the art of entertain
ing, but, as one item. a floor was con-
structed so that the sideboard sank into
the lower story after each course, to be
Immediately replaced by others which
rose covered with fresh course: we NAV
imagine its luxury and detail.
The famouS Iouis Wv -or
the art of cookery; he also worked tapes-
try with his own hand. We should linrer
over his feasts with more pleasue had thew
not led on to the French revolution AZ a
horrible dessert. His carving knives he.
came later on the guillotine.
Under Louis XVI. there was constant
improvement in all the occupations which
are required in the preparation of food. +"
Cooks, traiteurs, pastry cooks. confcction-
ers, and the art of preserving food so that
one could have the fruits of summer in
the midst of winter, all were started then
although the art of canning" may safely
be said to belong to our own time-much
later on.
In the year 1740 a dinner was served in
this order: Soup followed by the bouilli,
an entree of veal cooked in its own gravy
as side dish. Second course: A turkey,
dish of vegetables, salad and some
times cream.
Dessert: Cheese, fruit and sweets.
Plates are changed only thrice after the
soup, at the second course and at dessert.
Coffee was rarely served, but cherry brandy
or some liquor was passed
The reign of Louis XVIII, who grew to
be an immensely fat man, was a remark
able gastronome. Let anyone read Victor
Hugo's Les Miserables," and an account
OF his reign, to get an idea of
/ this magnificent entertainer. His most
( famous maitre d'hotel was the Due d.
! Oscars. When he and his royal master
| were closeted together TO mediate dish,
| the ministers OF state were kept waiting in
| the ante-chamber, and the next dav an
| official announcement was made: "Mon-
sleur lie Due d Oscars travaille dams le
/ cabinet"
How strangely would it affect the
| American people If President Harrison
! kept them waiting for his signature be-
cause he was discussing terrapin with Ma
celra sauce with his chef.
| The king has invented the "truffies Ia
/ puree q, ortolans," and invariably pre-
| pared 1t himself, assisted by the duke. On
| one occasion they jointly composed q dish
| az more than ordinary dimensions and
duly consumed the whole of it. In the
! night the duke was seized with fit of in
/ digestion and his case was declared hope
I less. Loyal TO the last he ordered an at
tendant 10 wake and inform the king, who
might be exposed 20 q similar attack. His
majesty was reused accordingly and was
( told that d Oscars was dying of his inven-
tlon.
Dying" exclaimed the king. .sweu. I
always said had the best stomach of the
| two"
So much for the gratitude Of kings. The