Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-03-17

fashion writer, there was a very pretty one
on view at swell dressmakers the other day.
1t was in process Of manufacture for Fifth
avenue dowarer. The material had black
ground and WAS scattered over with punches
of pale pink roses. The skirt was made with
full plating at the back; the front was some
what bouffaut, with insertions Of black lace
put in points across the skirt. Under the
lace showed the dark-green silk underskirt.
The basque had insertions of the lace and
the full sleeves fell over lace cuff. All
the foulards are made up over plain silk
skirts.
At tailor's yesterday, grievous to relate,
there were walking dresses trailing at least
four inches on the floor. One costume, par
ticularly noted, had just come over from the
Paris house. One thing to be remembered
in connection with this gown was that the
sleeves were moderate in size. The material
used for this dress was gray bison cloth; the
front was slightly fulled, and showed small
panels of moss-green velvet at either side.
The bodice was pointed in front; coat shape
ct the back. 1t fastened under the arm and
showed an undervest of the velvet A mar
row gold cord was used to 1order the bodice.
The sleeves had three bias folds of velvet
or, rather, the sleeve was slashed, showing
the velvet
A Bewitching Gown Described.
A terra-cotta gown was simply bewitch-
ing. 1t had a wide panel at one side, heavily
braided with white and slare-colored mohair
braid. The front drapery was slightly gath
cred at one side, where it Joined the panel.
The waist was also much braided about the
upper part, both back and front, with braid
ing on the collar and on the sleeves above
the wrist The skirt and basque were in
one. A seal-brown walking costume was
elaborately braided in black.
Something entirely new is a three-quarter
length coat of the Louis Quinze style. 1t is
made of cocoa-brown Venetian cloth, with
vest and cuffs of lighter shade of the same
material. Another novelty is walking
gown with coat bodice. Almond-colored
and dahlia-faced cloths are used for this
costume. The vest, collar and cuffs are
prettily braided with fine tinseI cord. The
girdle is braided to match.
Borders of velvet about the hem of skirts
are about four inches deep. The border may
be straight and simply tnrned under at the
top, or sewn on under row of narrow passe-
menterie, a small braided design or a group
Of straight rows of braiding. Much newer
velvet. straight at the lower edge, but cut
out in rounded downward scallops along the
top, and sewn OH under braiding OF passe-
menterie, or similar kind of braid but
deeper, and cut in sharp Vandyke points
along the top.
AWord of Warning.
A fashion item tells me that the summer
girl will wear high starched collar this
year. Ny advice to this fair maiden is,
"Bewarer' Hitherto you have done all
things gracefully, but in the wearing of
high starched collar you may meet your
Waterloo. No one has ever yet been able
gracefully to wear a stiff collar in summer.
The dude cannot do it, although be has de-
voted the better part of his time to making
the effort. The matron has failed; and so. 1
fear, must the summer girl. Let me be-
seecn of her, while there is yet time, to
avoid this natural but highly dangerous
ambition. A girl-even a summer girl
with a wilted collar is a queer without
throne, a prophecies without honor in her
own or any other country.
A very good style of trimming for the
edge OF cloth skirt consists OF band of
fancy braid about three inches wide at the
extreme edge, and above this band of vel
vet OF the same width.
Plain rows of braiding form a very good
trimming for the edge of a skirt, and il
carried out with plain black mohalr or
Russian braid, it is also a very cheap style
of trimming. Metallic braids-in gold, sill
yer or bronze-are often combined with the
black braid, and have very good effect
when used sparingly, very narrow me-
tallic braid being placed between two rows
of wider black braid. All the rows of
braid are sewn quite close together, and
form a solid trimming about four inches
deep.