The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1891-11-21
VENICE AND VIENNA.
The Palace the Doges-BrIdee of
sIshs-venIce at 3 O'Clock a. NJ
vlenna-rne Danube,
Special Correspondence of the Press.

ielt Venice at nV6 O'CLOCK In the morn
Ing. 1t had been question whether to
linger yet another day among Its churches
gliding listlessly in the gondolas from place
to place and leading just the dreamy fasci-
mating life that poetry and song have so
long pictured Venetian life to be. King
Humbert and Queen Margheretta had Just
left when 1 arrived and the city was finish
Ing up one grand fete season, but this was
no reason why another fete should not be
held on the very day Of my leavetaking.
But Venice is one grand carnival every
day, and one special day more or less can
make but little difference to the traveller.
l had seen it all, traversing the Grand
Canal twice and thrice over again. The
gondolier had made the trip among the
churches as expensive as possible and had
furnished many an old man who holds the
boat on arriving and leaving the quay,
many a sou.
ST. Marks SQUARE.
had waded back and forth, over and
over again in the sands of st. Marks square
which at night is filled with pleasure .seek-
ers, and In the morning presents the scene
of battle-ground after the retreat of the
foe.
had watched the wonderful clock and
waited for it to strike, In order to see the
bronze giants at the wheel hammer out the
hours as many different times as possible.
and had tried to learn all was able of its
complex mechanism.
THE CAMPANILE.
The Campanile, with its huge bronze
doors and lofty observatory, from which
may be seen the whole vast city as well as
the Adriatic, and many Alpine peaks
which in clear weather rise above the
Lagune at sunset affords a surprisingly
magnificent view.
That glorious old cathedral of the tenth
century. is in its oriental opulence never
ending source of delight, and every spare
moment is well spent In studying the old
liefs.
THE PALACE OF THE DoGEs.
But the old Doges Palace, how tired
was Of 1t. OF course ought to have liked
1t, ought to have been pleased with the
old Doges, for they were everywhere in
costly paintings and in rich tapestry, in
councils of state and in war-habjlimeEts,
They had the air of continually being en-
gagged In stern judicial proceedings. But
was SO glad when | got to the end of them.
smiled and always to have legislated.
''THE PoNTE DIES sosPIRI."
This Bridge of Signs was almost relief
after such dose Of Doges. 1t is dark of
course, and very high above the world, but
as bridge of signs. which its Italian
name indicates, 1t is perfect; for after all
these years 1t seems full of the signs and
groans of the prisoners who passed through
the palace across 1t, down into the danger
GUS way beneath, never more to see the
light OF day, OF hear the mirth outside, or
feel the JOY OF life as it throbs In that great
square where people from all the world
congregate. These old dungeons all over
Europe, with their torture chamber and
the rack, convey to the mind the barbar-
Ism OF politics in ages past as we'll as the
religious superstition of the people Of re-
mote periods and the question always
arises, whether the same amount of power
would bring out the same qualities in
human nature today, or whether the re-
nnements OF civilization have taken from
the hearts OF men part of what was base
In the soul so many ages ago.
In Italy the people never seem to get up.
After midday the whole busy world springs
into existence like Cytherea, out of the
foam of the sea. But in early morning
sight-seer, bound to accomplish all he can
In the cool OF the day, has hard work to
find any sustenance on which to make
BEGINNING. But a cup of muddy coffee
taken on the wing, helps one out until the
breakfast hour Of II or IL O'Clock and en-
ables him to pursue his craft as tourist
THE GoNDoLIERs.
These gondoliers are very amiable men !;
they are never ill-tempered, though often
importunate for more than their legal dues.
On wishing to leave had, the afternoon
previous, at last found man who was
willing to come for me in his boat at 4
o'clock in the morning, being obliged to
leave at 5 o'clock on account of the through
train to Vienna. The porter was told to
wake me at half past 3 o'clock, but before
was dressed the man knocked and told
me the g0ndolier was already there. When
l opened the door he stood there waiting,
with my card of address. The tables were
completely turned. Instead of my being
afraid of him he was very much afraid that
unless completely identified there would be
trouble ahead for him.
VENICE AT O'CLOCK A. NJ.
One can hardly realize the werdness of
the situation, that of leaving city so iso-
lated so early in the morning. The paddle
Of the oars on the still waters was the only
sound, as we wendell our way through the
side canals In reaching the shortest route
to the station. 1t seemed like the escape
OF old-time State criminals from some
grim castle on lake or river. / was re-
minded of Mary Queen of Scots, with her
Doatmen coming tor her In the gimmeripg
dusk OF early dawn in her escape from the
castle OF Loeb Leven. The horizon was
hardly reddening yet, and the grayness of
early daylight was over all, but as we got
out into the Grand Canal we found the
cafes and salons brilliantly lighted from
the night before, and men and women were
eating and drinking, dancing and playing,
and finishing. generally the sports of the
previous night. While at the same time
the life OF the coming day was commencing
IN the markets among the peasant class.
Inc large Sc0w goDd0las were drawn Qp
and being unloaded by busy Italian peas
ant women. They were spreading tue
most inviting looking vegetables for the
days sale. There were to be seen here
and there barges gaily decorated In view
OF the coming fete.
=, ln passing the market and meeting from
Time TO time the freight gondolas il struck
me SO strangely the idea that since NV
arrival at the station on coming into the
city had seen no four-footed animal or
OeasL Oh burden OF any kind, and not even
uog OF Kltten; Tor on entering the CITY /
had been warned against losing myself in
the narrow labyrlnths which serve as
streets, and so l had seen little of domestic
life there, my acquaintance with the citv
being mostly by means of the Grand Canal
which gives access to all of Importance in
the town.
THE RAILWAY STATION.
The railway station of Venice is the
rarest place of the kind Ia the world. There
Is nobody jostling you, there is no rush
for carriages, no cry of "hack hack 7" and
no Importantly of cab-men marshalled in
line for precedence which is SO irving TO
the nerves. But one quietly Leaves the
car, walks to some stairs on the opposite
side, selects his gondola, pays the old man
pretending to hold the boat his sous. gets
IN, and is soon out among the gay 6aTses
on the way to his hotel,
At this early hour there were few peonle
about, and all was placid and sweet. The
gOndolier made no dispute about the price
and was satisfied with his fee. The man
who sold me the the additional ticket 10
Pontebba only added a lew cents to the
correct fare. | found place to get black
coffee and roll and then got on to the
train, which whole preceding left a pleas.
uTable feeling in nv mind after the heat and
dust and noise of ST Marks Square the
day before. The air was cool anu tne mos
qnlt0es all preferred The sluggish Canal ia