Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1891-04-18
MIR. wAKEMAN,s JOURNEYINGS.
At IIkley, England-Description of
Wharfedale-Bolton Abbey When
the Ancient Priory was Founded
Lineage of the ssEorkshfre Black
smfth''-Ehere Collyer Got His
Schooling.

Lineage of the ssYorkshire Black
smfth,,-where CoIlyer Got His
Schooling.
ILKLEY, England. April 3.
To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
Where the fierce winds of the German
ocean meet the wild winds from the Irish
sea, and both, in savage convolutions, roll
icy fog-banks along the barren hills, lies
little vale, set like a nest between the
highest Yorkshire moors. This is Wharfe-
dale. All around are dreariness of scene
ry and the griminess and hardness of
countless mills. But within this one dale,
as if in blessed compensation, are num-
berless winsome spots and scenes. Ilkley,
quaint and old in its characterful village
life, shining and new from the innovations
of rich loiterers drawn hither by the hy
sweet old spot, as Ruskin and Turner
were, is the Wharfedale's tiny metropolis.
1t was the Olicana of the Romans. All
Saints, its ancient church, stands on the
site of former Roman fort and station.
The entire region roundabout is filed with
Pictish and Druidic remains. While the
valley sides and scraggy moor-scars rising
above are exquisitely set with hedge and
copse, lawn and bloom, with here and
there the walls of ancient manor house, or
of battlemented castle, showing statelily
against the outjuttings of the higher crags.
Innumerable English antiquarians, nat
uralists and tourists come to Wharfedale
ALL visit the classic shades of Bolton Alb
bey, four miles above Ilkley- Few Ameri
cans have seen it because of its remote
| ness. The ancient priory was founded in
1151, and owed its origin to a pathetic
| tragedy, best told in Rogers ballad, 1.-THE
Boy of Egremond." Lady Alice, wife of
William Fitz-Duncan, nephew to King
David of Scotland, was the founder. Just
a mile above the abbey the river Wharfe is
compressed within deep, torrent-like
rocky channel called the Strid; because
one can stride, or leap, across it. The sor
of Lady Alice attempted to cross the Strid
leading hound in leash. The latter, sud
denly shrinking back, precipitated "the
boy of Egremond" into the torrent. HI
was drowned. In Dolorous memory Boil
ton Abbey was built. Among all the alb
bey ruins of Great Britain, Bolton, blend
ed with its surroundings, is certainly the
most attractively picturesque. Melrose ii
incomparably more interesting as an eccle
siastic art-relic; ivy buried Dryburgh pro
tects the grave of Scott; Kirkstall, as al
impressive ruin, is far superior; ant
Fountains is more perfect, spacious ant
splendid; but Bolton Abbey stands a
both an impressi 7e and picturesque Older
| shrine in perfect dream of natural beau
ty and repose.
| The ruins are situated on the west sid
of the Wharfe upon gentle grassy emf
1 nence where the river curves broadly t.
the east, breaking in ripping shallow
along its sunny way. The ancient conven
tual walls are so fallen in places as to b.
ove1grown with grass and shrubbery; 9th
er portions of the wall still stand high an
lofty, subdued in their jagged outlines b
masses of ivy. The shell of the great pr
ory church is yet entire, and into its spler
did nave has been built parochisl chape
almost type of truant faith still cline
ing to its mother church; while the daiI
test parsonage eyes ever beheld has bee
built out of the ruins, over against wher
once stood the court of cloisters An al
| cient escutcheon is emblazoned on its gait
!, way; its porch is buried in ivy; and i
. summer wild hops and lady-bower kind
the dark masses with bloom. To the str
dent of ecclesiastic art Bolton priory o
8 fers but few distinct and fruitful studies
7 There is a fine old arch still standin
: which once led to the chapter-house. /
+. the nave is a wooden screen of remarkab
| Tudor work. The decorated windows
t the transcripts are excellent example
r | The early English work of the west fror
t of the nave has a magnificent recesse
t doorway, enriched with fifteen molding
g While the west window is as exquisite q
Q example of the perpendicular style as ms
: be found in England. In every directic
: the eye falls on matchless scenes of swee
8 ness and rest. The very air and sunligl
d of the little vale seems eloquent of repos
q The inner sense dreamfully dwells upc
the sacred and classic memories of the iv
n hid ruins; the Wharfe modulatesit its win
:, ings to the spirit of the spot; and eve
the birds, loving the valley as a retire
l. from the ever-crowding of the grim AT
/. smoky mills, sing here in their Wharfesi,
); sanctuary their softest and tendere
10 songs.
% Outside of all quaint and pleasant thin
lt about old and new Ikley, it is a deligh
% full place to visit from the human intere
/ of the town and its neighborhood. tt
II ancestors of that sweet singer, Bisht
Heber, lived and died here. It is the Lar
of the Fairfsxes, whose noble blood W
a transfused to our own Virginia. It W
the passionately- loved haunt of Turne
who never spoke of sweet Wharfeds
2. without quivering of the voice." whi
s. Ruskin "discerned little bits of n<l
e. scenery hanging on the the Alpine heigh
. when Turner came to paint them" B
the personality above all others that lin
the American heart of to-day to old Ilkl
re is one our country has held in loving !
as gard, now these two-score years; the gre
IN hearted man, who, at Philadelphia, Chic
ne go and New York, has made other me
Romanist or Protestant, orthodox or he
ar rodo1, better and happier for his minist
ct among thsmi-grand, gray Robest Colly'