Evening capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1888-1893, 1891-03-17
PRECIOUS PERFUMES.
Something About the lpgreoIenrs
- Used In Their Composition.
A Fragrant subject Discussed I'm an inter-
esting wsy.-The Flowers, Spices
and Herbs Employed by Per-
fumers Here and Abroad.

and subjected TO enheurage IT gives OIL,
pomade and alconoIate. The variety chiefly
used is the hunored-leaved Rosa centifola,
and is grown for commercial purposes most
extensively in Turkey, India and IN the
south of France, says the San Francisco
Chrontcle. The ottar Of rose is light yel-
low or straw-colored liquid, possessing q
high degree Of concentration, the character
istic odor of the flower, and diffusiveDess
and persIstency that render 1t OF great
service TO the perfumer.
OF the citrine family, consisting of the
two great divisions Of lemons and oranges,
the bitter or Seville orange is the most val
liable species TO the perfumer. Its flowers
yield the ottar known as the oil Of neroli,
or neroly, and by enfeurage a pomade and
alcoholate Of delightful fragrance. The
rind of the ripe fruit contains u useful OIL
and the small unripe berries and leaves
also furnish one. Another orange of i'm
portance is that known as the Bergamla,
from which the oil of bergamot is produced
The common lemon gives an essence hay
ing both perfume and favor, while from
the cltron is taken the truly delightful es-
sence known as the ottar OF cedrat.
BY en1eurage the modest violet yields an
odor which Is universally admired for its
delicacy and sweetness. The chief violet
beds are at Nice, where the plants are bed
ded In the shade OF orange or acacia groves.
Approximations of the scent Of tue violet
are found in the acacia, the orris, and in
myallwood, q native of Australi. The acacia
referred to is q small tree or shrub which
grows only in southern latitudes, and the
flowers, which are yellow and about the
size OF q large pea, arc cassie flowers.
These are treated by entieurage. Cassie
must not be confounded with cassia, which
is the common cinnamon. .
The tuber-rose Is bulbous plant, first mo-
tIced by old writers as the Indian hyacinth.
The odor Is obtained by enfleurage, and is
not only favorite in its pure state, but en-
ters into the formation Of the most recher-
che bouquet France, Italy and Spain con-
tain the chief gardens of the tuber-rose al
though there is no reason why in this In
dustry, as in 30 many others, California
should not enter the competing field.
The ylang-ylaug (hower OF flowers) Is the
blossom of large tree natlve in tue islands
of the India archipelago Jts native Tagal
name is the ihlane- -ihlang, the Maays call it
kanonga, and TO botanIsts it is known as
unona odoratIssima. The flowers remind
one somewhat of the locust blossom Their
color is @ greenish yellow, and they possess
an odOr resembling MIXTURE OF jasmine
and lilac, 80 powerful that it scents the air
| lOE ullbbs 1uO -JiauB W0o al ob hAo
covered by a chemist At Manila in 1867. 1t
| is now largely manufactured there and at
| Singapore. .'.. s.a
Lavender, rosemary and patchouly are
| all herbs. The two former are quite well
| known In this country the last named Is an
| Indian plant resembling our garden sage,
1 To the natives II Is known rs putohRpat,
| both leaves and stem yielding an ottar OF
| great strength and very peculiar Odor.
the spice series cloves ana cinnamon
| are the only ones that are much used In per-
| fumery, and these are chiefly employed in
soaps. The Glove tree is largely cultivated
| In the West Indies and the Malacca islands,
while the cinnamon Is not the bark OF COM
merce, but comes from smaller tree, and
has o milder odor and flavor, with faint
touch Of muskiness. Cassia comes from
China, the true cinnamon from Ceylon.
Two odorous grasses, natives OF India,
furnish ottars Of extensive usefulness.
One is lemon grass, having a strong re-
semblapce in odor TO the lemon verbena,
and from it nearly all our 'extracts OF ver-
| bena" and "verbena water" are pladai
The other ottar Is citrone la, perfume
which most persons have made nc.
Ilauaintance with in the so-called "honey
soap" -r,ft f#I, ,.. .rI ...-
The wood OF tbc sandal tree, native of
the West Indies, gives o curious odor, great
lv admired in Oriental countries and much
valued by us. il is both used IN sub-tanes
and distilled for It's ottar. Vetivert, rkus.
kus, thread-like Indian root, furnishes
another perfume OF the same class as san
dal, but sharper and more approaching
| floral odors II Is q strong and durable
odor that gives it's characteristics to the
1cashmere bouqusU' soap. The ottar OF
vetivert is much higher IN cost than eyeR
that of roses. sf ntty
Bitter almonds, though containing no
ottar IN their natural state, yiold one by the
| reaction Of their constituents In the pres
encO OF water. Thus the still furnishes us
the almond odoV, which, while slckening IN
itself, huds O place In minute quantities IN
many OF the finest foral compounds.
Vanilla is the capsula of abeautiful creep
ing plant native In Mexico and South Amer
lea. II is generally from six TO ten inches
in length, about one. fourth Of ar inch in
diameter, cylindrical In shape, tapering To-
ward either end, and slightly dattened
The color is dark brown. The interior con,
tains a sort OF pulp filled with little shining
Dlack seeds. Its flavor and odor are both
familiar,
The origin OF ambergrls was long mys'
terry, but is now known 10 DO q diseased Sc
erection Of the spermaceti whale II is found
floating ON the surface OF the sea, and has
an odor which is extremely unpleasant when
pure, but which gives mellowness and per'
manoncy to mixtures.
Musk IS also secretion, and Is obtalned
from the musk deer, q pretty little animal
inhabltiRg the higher mountain ranges OF
TonQuin. China, and rhibet.. The musk is
found In small pocket or pouch under the
belly of the deer, and, being cut OF by the
hunters, becomes hard and dry and pro
serves its contents as an unctuous powder
~ a reddish brown color. Its powerful,
yaFm, aromatic odor blends well with every
other scent and gives them permanency
without being intrusive.
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Annoaots Of Webster.