New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-05-10

oPihhAS Va ichiou Juoc WIN ohio oduoS ~" "ilN
your HEAT Then pour teaspoonful OF olive Oil IN
saucer, brush il the inside Of some scallop-
shells lone for each person., I'll the latter with your
ragout, which must be quite hot, sprinkle some dry
breadcumbs over 1t, and then some grated cheese.
Put few flakes Of tablebutter on top of each place
the shells In sheetiron pan, and brown them In
quick oven, which will take about five Minutes They
must be watched lest the rsgout dries mp. Serve the
shells Immediately, over folded napkin, on china
dish
They make nice appetizer when eaten between
the soup and meat-course and they furnish the best
and incest way Of using up meat. well as fish.
Now you take the same recipe and, for
special occasion, turn it into y,
sALPICoN ROYAL.
Cut into small dice the breast Of chicken scme sweet
breads and mushrooms, all cooked beforehand: add
bechamel sauce. IN which some crsyfsh butter hos
been melted pour this mixture either Into shells Of
pastry or small paper cases and serve hot. Or. more
luxurious still, prepare
sALPICoN A LA CoNDE.
Take equal parts Of prepared sweetbreads, the red
dest Of beef tongue, the blacklist Of trues cut them
into small dice. and mOsten well with thick white
sauce favored with lemon Juice ard mushroom.
The term "salpicon" is generally applied to a
"ragout hn" the ingredients Of which are cut into
fine squares. A ragout always requires savory or
plquant sauce, and mostly Is composed OF lied
materials which, however have to be 80 assorted that
they blend tremendously The greatest care must be
bestowed on the sauce which completes the whole
1t is either brown white sauce, according to tho
solids used. II remnants of cooked beef mutton "
venison to bo turned Ito a ragout. brown sauce
is required; for veal, poultry fish. etc. white sauce
Is needed. The foundation of q sauce is -four and
butter mixed, which is called a roux. The propot'
tons spoonful of butter TO one spoonful OF
-four. Melt the butter, mix 1t with the flour, aud STIR
over the fire a few minutes only II the sauce Is to DO
white. DO not allow 1t 10 take color. For brown
sauce set this mixture back of the stove until IT turns
to rich brown. stir II frequently, and do not allow
1t to become attached 10 the bottom of the pan lone OF
sheet-iron is best to get black in any port Now
TO get the consistency Of sauce. add to the roux the
liquid requICed. Add it lukewarm and little by htue'
stirring all the while in direction; thus you
avoid getting Jumps. When properly thnned. stir
over the fire until IL begins to boil; then set IL on
the side of the stove and allow 1t to continue boiling
gently until the -four is cooked, which viii DO IN
about fifteen minutes. To keep the mixture for use
later in the day, put IN saucepan with tSnthpung
lid which You place In an open pan filled 70 reaoh
three quarters up the saucepan with boiling "aer
This you put on place where the latter wfh Keep
boiling hot but not boil. The liquid TO DO added 70
the "rouxp varies as to the sauce TO be made A
white sauce requires either clear, mildly Favored veal
or chicken BROTH or II is made with milk and cream,
sometimes with the addition OF an egg Drown
saace ought always b be more or less plquSnt' ue
broth used may either be of beef or from scraps ana
bones of dark meat, favored with SPICE onions poes
or other accessories Of the kind
Professional cooks keep Z" stock on hand Tor uho
making of sauces. but this is far too expensive way
for Won and me- The contents Of the souppoo are all
we need and by adding afterward 70 the ABOVE "MOe
or brown sauces the condiments needed TO suit the
kinds of food 1t is TO accompany or form whoae
with. we can make with ingenuity as good sauce
.a-4 - f0c-in
with stock A brown sauce, however, can always Do
improved in looks as well IN regard to its noaris
ing qualities by adding to it at the last moment some
of Lebig's extract. - 49,,
manage TO produce pretty nearly any Kind OF sauce
that you will need. If you wish to serve some snces
left from cooked beef mutton Or tongue tfe Following
Is a good recipe for
BROWN RAGoyF SAUCE.
prepare YOUR sauce in the way demonstrated, then
add one onion one bay-eaf Glove, four alispice,
six black pepper-seeds and bouquet OF parsley ana
summer savory sweet basil, and continue TO let
boil gently for half ga hour longer stirring IL from
time 10 time. Strain II through wire sieve, ana han
an hour before serving add some lemon juice or a
little vinegar. and either capers, slices of picked
cucumbers or mushrooms-or If preferred all three OF
them. AT the last you add the meat, which must
no fulIv covered with sauce. Cover 1t up tight ana
place it over boiling water where the meat VIII get
heated and blend with the sauce without coming 10
boil Cooked meat heated over must never Doll, OF
1t viii get tough.
OF white sauces the bechamel is the most usefnl
The original one invented by Louis XIv's famous Chef
NJ Bechamel is a very elaborate one, Of which there
are many descendants of high and low degree. The
latter however are by no means 70 be GespISed
have In fact special fondnesS for the f4ows one
and wholesome well as nourishins properues'
PLAIN BECHAMEL SAUCE.
Mako q roux as for white sauce, substitute milk
for broth add one onion fake Of mace and @ bunch
of parsley Let boil for fifteen minutes, then strain
This Is a very good sauce for poultry. sweetbread
and ham, and also for certain vegetables. for
ragout or q salpcon, take but'haf milk Tor cream ana
half veal or chicken broth, add 10 1t one onion half
sl,ce Of raw ham cut in squares, few white pepper
seeds the peel Of one quarter lemon allow 1t to boil
for half an hour when strain and favor with lemon
juice. o.so, ,o,, ruo,. ga ans,
accessory which serves your purpose, II you merely
take care that nothing Homogeneous enters into your
dish. l use 1t for
MIXED RAGoUT IN A PASTRY SHELL VOL AU
VENT.
Take two calves tongues; boil them in your SOUP
pot. When done peal the skin, and trim of the
roots Prepare or two s~eetbreads in the follow
ing way Wash them we'll, put them In asaucepan cover
with cold water, let them smmer-not boll-for one
hour until they are we'll blanched Meanwhile put
water on to boil in another saucepan, and throw into
the boiling water the blanched sweetbeads let them
boil for minutes, removing the scum which rises;
then put them into cold water and otter they get cool
take them out and trim of the skin and cartilage.
Both tongues and sweetbreads now ready for
cut them into slices and put them into the above sauce
which must be rather thick; keep hot over boiling
water. Add some mushrooms, either canned fresh.
The latter ore best and have TO be cooked beforehand
in this way: Peel them carefully, and cut away with
small pointed knife the pnksh under side, melt
butter In a saucepan. when hot throw In your mush
rooms. add large slice Of onion, few white pepper
seeds. and a tablespoonful Of lemon Juice mild
vinegar Cover up and allow to stew. shaking the
contents every little while. They will be done-that
is sof-in about five minutes. and ready to be added
20 the ragout With their strained liquor II you wish
10 niale this raeout frstrate you add at the very
last some force meat balls boiled In broth. Serve
Tho whole I'm q shell OF pastry. with a Of the