The Dickinson press., 1891-11-28
Fashion Gossip,

Fabrics for winter gowns are warm
looking, rough woolens for street
dresses, also feecy camel's hair stuffs,
both plain and figured, and serges that
are very broadly twilled. They also
have winter crepons more deeply
twilled and OF heavier weight than
those worn in summe and many new
plisse fabrics with dark pleats or tucks
woven on a light background.
These new woollens aremade up with
a belted waist, large sleeves and plain
skirt, to be worn with aleather belt and
bag or one of fancy jets and call the
whole the"Miss Helyett gown, because
modelled after those worn by the
amusing heroine now SO popular in
Paris. The same style is also adopted
foriogne and cloinvgth dresses addg,
a touch in the way Of soft revers Of
plaid silk that will open or close at
will on q gathered plastron of benga-
line or ofmousseline de sole; the sleeves
are straight and full, loosely gathered
at the wrist, with q frill below, which
may be pushed back to the elbow at
the wearer's pleasure, to disclose
close-titting 'mitten sleeves" of the
plaid silk. The revers, collar, band
and undersleeves of changeable plaid
MORE have a ground of pistache and
red crossed with pink and black bars
-an odd but stylish covering. A
jacket or cape OF cloth or of fur, such
as are worn with various dresses, will
complete this dress for the street.
Very young ladies and girls in their
teens will wear gowns OF black
or blue wool interviewer with
golden-yellow, made with q pretty lit
tie Mikado jacket and girdled waist.
The Jacket OF wool has open fronts,
pointed just below the waist, then
curve upward under the arms to meet
at the top and middle OF the back be-
low the collar, leaving the back of the
under waist in view as we'll as the
front. Wide notched revers in front
and a rolled collar are Of wool, faced
nearly to the edge with black satin.
The edges of the jacket are merely
stitched or corded, and it is mounted
permanently on a fitted lining, which
is made to represent q shirt waist by
being covered with l%engthwise rows of
black satin ribbon two inches wide,
extending down to q wide girdle of
pale blue or mauve satin wrought
with Japanese embroidery of almond
and pomegranate blossoms done in
pink, mauve, gold and green silks, all
couched with black. Two frills of rib
bon are gathered down the front edge
to stand ont prominently-one, Of
black satin, resting on a wider frill of
pink and yellow chaneeable ribbon.
The sleeves are very full around the
armholes and closely fitted below,
with little revere cuffs of japanese en-
broidery matching the girdle. The
skirt is in bell shape, very full at the
back, its only trimming a row of black
satin ribbon inserted between tucks
near the foot.
Some very attractive street gowns OF
poll de chameau-very 1eecy camel's-
hair-of light beige and ivory shades
are as they claim to be, strictly tailor
made. The gored skirt escapes the
pavement, and allits seams are Tapped
and double-stitched on the outside:
the wide hem is held by several rows
OF stitching. A single breasted waist
coat buttoned high with small satin
lasting buttons fitted by darts, and
has small pocketsfor watch and change
much like those of mems vests: the
back is OF silk strapped and buckled
to fit. The suit is completed by a long
coat falling to the knee, warmly inter-
lined, and finished with silk. 1t is fit
ted to the back, andstraight andloose
in front, and all its seams are Tapped
and double-stitched. The straight
edges Of the front meet and turn back
inreversth that are faced to the button
holes with bengaline Of the light shade
OF the wool. Very largepearl buttons
are set underneath each revers, so
that the coat may be Tapped either
way. The collar is silk-faced nearly
to the edge. Large coat sleeves are
stitched in many rows to suggest
cuffs