Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-06-20

Returning to the main road. We soon entered
the pass of Keimaneigh, which, though on
somewhat smaller scale than most of the Alpine
passes, to our mind rivals many of them in
grandeur. The rocky sides of the defiles rise
blackly. relieved somewhat by the green of
heather and occasionally specks of furz. which
here and there find foothold and the sun
until at his meridian finds little opportunity to
shoot his rays into the continual shadow there
inclosed. Bantry bay presents itself not many
miles beyond the pass, and ride along the
multitudinous indentations of its shores brings
us at last to Glengariffe, which to its
mild and uniform climate owes the
reputation it has acquired as a winter resort.
Its pleasant and attractive surroundings have
charms, too, for the mere pleasure seeker
who, abandoning the railroad at Bantry some
eleven miles distant across the bay Journeys
by the inevitable and uncomfortable but emf
nently Irish jaunting car to the swell hotels
which cater to the comforts and tighten the
purse of the tourist and which, as at many
other resorts, are the principal portion of the
place. This is a field for the botanist, several
tropical and sub-tropical plants growing no.
where else in Europe being found among the
luxuriant vegetation on the mountains, at the
foot OF which nestle as it is usual to say, the
village and its hotels.
Bereft of his railroad, which terminates at
Bantry, the conventional tourist, unless he be
rot unwilling to travel in the public car" an
open coach-like vehicle accommodating about
ten persons goes by iaunting car all the way to
Killarney. some fifty -three miles, and for the
best part of two days sits with his back to his
companion on the other seat, or, if he prefers
sits side-saddle fashion and so faces the direc-
ton in which he is travelling The car. as it is
more commonly called, is an idea borrowed
from the pack animal and his panniers, the
seats consisting of pair of shelves, with sub
shelves for the feet, slung over set of huge
springs resting on pair OF small wheels
THE IRISH HOTELS.
Unlike American hotels the Irish hotels, I'M
less in the cities, as at Dublin, do not require
the traveller to register.
You are known simply as "ths gentleman in
No. H." and your reckoning" as the bill Is
called. is made out to mo. 49, The office
il some obscure place in which you never pene-
trate. Your place is in the ''smoke room" or
| the "coffee room," where there are facilities
for writing, few old newspapers older
the better-and railway guides scattered about.
Entering hotel, tired and dusty and find
| ing no one to receive you. you wonder where
in thunder every one is, that is il you are pro-
fame; but never mind! there will be plenty
around to see you depart. You look about for
something to kick over-anything to attract
the attention OF the household to the fact OF
your arrival. Pretty soon, though it might
have been sooner, Jeames, with his ill-fttinQ
dress suit which has come into his possession
second or third handed, appears and makes
his obeisance: Or, If your hotel hasn't
quite as much style, Jeames without a
dress coat, or perhaps maid with rather toe
much red in her complexion comes forward to
hear your wishes. If You are curious to know
what II Is going to cost you you ask for ''the
tarin as 1t sometimes proves protective
tariff against overcharge. You feed on ''chops
chieffy-mutton chops--with now and then "a
bit OF steak" and although the potato IL Irish
you never get 1t unless you order II specifcally.
Your drink-well, you had better let the
| on 1t.
And the brogue-oh the brogue! Rich and
resonant and so heavily laden with pure Irish
in some districts that II Il well nigh incompre-
hensible. The pronunciation Of the names Of
some Of the Irish town IL something not to be
| attempted by the novice II he wishes TO be un-
derstood. He had better leave that to an Ok.
! pert EUo1xy + 6Tsvxxs.'