The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1891-01-15

will suffice, provided that it is effectually
done. After the plat has been burned
and has cooled. rake off the large Goals
and brands, but let the ashes remain, as
they are essentially frst-class manure.
Then coulter over the plat deeply, or
break with grub hoes, and make fine
the soil by repeated chopping and
raklng, observing not to bring the
subsoil to the surface, and remove all
roots and tufts. Manure from the sta
bic, hog or poultry house, or some
reliable commercial fertilizer, should
be chopped into and thoroughly in
corporated with the soil while prepar-
ing the bed to be sown. Experience
has demonstrated that it is better to
use both.
A good tobacco fertilizer mixed with
equal quantity of poultryhouse drop
pings and thoroughly incorporated,
makes a most excellent manure for
plants, and SO does a compost made
with selected chemicals, stable manure
and rich moist earth The latter when
composted in time is the best and surest.
But beware of using manure contain
ing grass seed. The judgement of the
planter must guide him in the amount
of turtilizing material TO be applied at
this stage; but it is we'll to remind him
that the tobacco plant rarely responds
to homeopathic doses Of plant food.
but that the allopathic usage suits it
best.
Sow at the rate of tablespoonful of
seed, which is about half an ounce, on
every fifty square yards at first sowing,
and later resow with heaping teaspoon
ful over the same surface, to secure a
good stand. Injury by trosts or bugs
may require a third or fourth sowing.
Sow little thick rather than too thin
to meet contingencies, and secure a
good stand in time.
The best way to SOW the seed is to
mix them thoroughly with fetilizer
or dry ashes, and sow once regularly
over the bed, reserving seed enough to
cross-sow to promote regularity. The
tobacco seed is the smallest of all farm
seeds, and consequently requires light
covering. If the seeds are sown be-
fore the 2oth of February, the best way
is to firm the surface by treading it
over closely, but if sown later, sweep
lightly over with brush or light rake.
Then run surface drains through the
bed, with inclination enough to pass
off the water. To do this properly,
run them off four or five feet apart
with the foot, then open with narrow
grubbinghoe to the depth OF three
or four inches. Then trench deeply
around the outside of the bed, to ward
off surface water and prevent washing.
MULCHING AND COVERING.
Hog hair whipped fine and scattered
thinly over the bed attracts and retains
moisture, protects the plants from frost
and acts as manure. There is no
better covering for a plant bed but
unfortunately it is rarely ever in full
supply. Fine brush should be placed
thickly over the bed, or, if not handy,
Cover with straw or chaff free from
grain. A covering of some such ma
terial is necessary, or the young plants
are likely to be killed by frost or suffer
from drongnt, and they thrive better
with some protection.
CANVAS COVERING FOR PLANT BEDS
A covering of thin cloth has been
found to hasten the growth Of plants
and protect them from freezing and in.
jury by the flea bugs. This makes the
bed warmer, and acts as cold-frame
the canvas taking the place of glass.
First, boards should be placed all
around the bed close, SO as to prevent
the little black beetle, or fiea-bug from
creeping through, eighteen or twenty
inches high on the upper side and slop
ing TO ten or twelve inches on the lower
Then prepare a lot of small stake
(small round poles, one and one h
inches in diameter, make good opxt
sawed into lengths graduated froEAHH
TIA