Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-11-07
me DIRTY LArr AND HIS nrrNprxR.

fHK DIRTY lap AND HIS RHINDEKR.
| We visited Lapp encampment at Tromso.
The school boy whose composition on the noble
red man said 1.-THE Indian washes only once q
year; wish was an Indian" should alter
his wish and petition to be Lapp, for there is
no external evidence that the latter washes
more than once a lifetime, and that at his birth
| when he is entirely defenseless. In the sum-
mer . camp Of the wandering Laps drive
| several hundred OF their reindeer to . valley
| only a few miles from Tromso, and it was there
| that We saw them. They are huddled in dome
shaped huts of stone, turf and birch bark, full
of smoke from q FIRE in the center Of the hut,
which fnds an exit only through hole In the
| top of the structure and through the door
4 when 1t is opened. They have the .yellowIsh
! complexion, high cheek bones and low fore
head of the Monaghan race. They are short in
stature, dirty. Misunderstanding and wretched.
| The reindeer is their support and treasure. The
| animal supplies them with milk, meat clothes
| and transportation. Nearly everything that they
need is made from some part Of this useful ami
! NAL These particular Laps earn something
| by the sale to summer tourists of the skin and
articles made from the horns of the reindeer.
The nomadic Laps and Firms Of northern
| Norway and Sweden are comparatively few in
number, miserable, mi-barbarous But the
Firms in Russian Finland, whom we saw after
| ward on our way from Stockholm to St. Peters
| burg, are very different sort Of people, set
| tied trnders and fishermen, with well-built
| cities Of considerable size like Helsingfors.
PREPARING FOR THE WAR DANCE.
At Bodo, returning from the North Cape, we
met the Emperor William Of Germany in his
yacht on his way to the cape, where, by the
way, he did not see the midnight sun, the
weather having no respect for royalty. The
little Norwegian town and the vessels with
which the harbor was crowded were gay with
bunting. We ran up all of our own flags. fired
off our four small but loud mouthed cannon,
and our band began to play and our German
passengers TO sing "The Watch on the Rhine"
As we came near the royal yacht the emperor
appeared on deck and responded to our can
non. music and shouting by a military salute,
whereupon he was promptly kodaked by the
disrespectfulA American amateur photographers.
On the day that we left London for the
North Cape trip William arrived in that
city, and we had the full benefit of the extern
sive preparations made by the Londoners for
his visit. We saw the counter pictures to these
glimpses Of Germanys demonstrations in Eng
land and Norway at Cronstadt. where We found
the formidable gray men-of-war Of the French
fleet socially nestled up to st. Petersburg's
threatening Notifications; again at Peterhoff,
Alexanders summer palace and park, which,
with its beautiful fountains, was on the car
day gorgeousy Illuminated Tin addition to the
customary display Of tireworks) in honor Of the
French admiral, with whom the car drove at
midnight through an enthusiastic crowd of q
hundred thousand Russians shouting ''I.ive Rus
STA live France live the car ~; and again at
Moscow, whose people lined the street which led
to Sparrow Hill, where the French visitors dined
and who hurrahed themselves hoarse in honor
Of France. Russian Alexis in Paris may have
avoided the tell-tale demonstrations Of the
French crowds, as reported, but no restraints
were placed either upon the people or the Wis.,
itors in Russia drove to Sparrow Hill while
the French were dining there. This is the fine
view point of Moscow, the hill from which
Napoleon caugh: with intense Joy and relief
the first glimpse of the city, and to which he
retreated from the burning capital. On this
eminence, so filled with painful historic associ-
ations for both nations, the Russians and
French were now drinking to eternal good
fellowship and national amity. Russian Off
Ger, near relative Of an official in the Russian
legation at Washington, said to me here: I'VE
like the English. from whom we separated
by political differences, and we hate the
Germans" Germany, through William, makes
advances to England and Norway. France,
through her admiral, is effusively welcomed in
Russia The nations are taking partners in
the game OF European war soon about to
begin.
POSTING" THROUGH NORWAY.
We retraeed our steamer course from Bergen
to the North Cape only as far as Throndjhem
where We took train to Storen, and from this
point to Lillehammer We drove for 200 miles by
carriage through central Norway over the
regular posting route, crossing the Dovrefjeld,
a mountain plateau, and then following the
Gudbrandsdal. the valley of the Laagen river.
We did not approach closely any of the lofty