New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-07-19
ETRETAT IN DANGER.
CIVILIZATION BEGINS TO NEEDLE WITH
QUAINT NORMAN HAMLETS!
Etretat Normandy, July l

go. made known half century ago by the
royols of Alexander Karr and popularized later by
n hand Of struggling artists whose names ana
corvases are now famous w. d. Howells ana
Horny James first introduced the Anglo1Saxon 10
the charms of Etretat. Half hid in scaiop
on the Norman shore, guarded by huge White Gins
commanding sea that rolls majestcaly 10 view
York harbor, lies this quaint hshing village
broad beach affords unsurpassed SURF oathing Inc
rucred grandeur of the coast is softened Dy INC
0ne old chateaus and parks scattered among tne
recedng hills, through whose valleys wind granu
o,,e,uoe NJ t,ees. with here and there outlying
fields of wheat bespangled with cockie ana wiz
flowers and redolent of wood and sea. But the
true glory of Etretat departed when the Prussians
came in and. emptying the contents of the village
postofice into the sea, changed the coIor OIL 'ie
fisher folks little world.
Fashion or civilization has followed the Prus-
slams into this Norman fisher folks paradise Inc
Younger generation is discarding the TRADITIONAL
sabots and peasant cap and aping Parislan hnery'
A rabid Republican Mayor threatens to bring aOouo
changes little dreamed Of in the days when Dlaz'
Faure and Albert Wolf led on ass garlanded III
flowers down the higToad, and, stopping the COACH
compelled Ofenbach TO step down and mount Cle
ass, which the gay Bohenlians then led ID tri-
umph through the village. These were the Gays
when Etretat was the boyhood home OF hugo
Merle, who sleeps now in the village churchyaru
and Coubert, in his bird-nest studio, when stlll
SWINGS over the cliff, painted his famous wave,
now in the Luxembourg. Last year the Mayor
siIcuced the curfew, which, since the days
of Norman conquest had been the village
monitor marking the entry and the exit
Of many romance, the Inspiration OF
many q song and story. The Bon Dlen. the
wooden cross on the cliff has been removed, De-
cause it came within the limits of the land pur-
chased by his MayOrship. Demohsher OF Norman
faith and pride, the same Mayor advocates rail-
road. Then, indeed, will the simplicity OF Etre'at
be O tradition.
Glorious was the day we mounted the coacn al
Les If and settled to feast our eyes on what Is
generally conceded to be the most picturesque
drive In Normandy. Now in the valley, now on
the hilltop, with the great whitecap Of the sea
in the distance, the salt of its spray waited by
interlylng fields of wheat and brilliant flowers;
now lost in pillows of feecy clouds or Swallowed by
splendid pines. their proud forms rich in moss and
ivy: then dashing by ancient chateaus or primitive
farms with fern, wild flower and moss matched
roofs: stepping at taverns to quaf Norman cider,
then away again pursued by urchins pleading Tor
a sou, we finally came in the highroad overlooking
the summer home of Guy du MaupaSsant.
EnscOnced in almost an impenetrable wall OF
ereenery, it nestles in the valley, where Isiau-'
PEASANT spent his boyhood and laid the scene OF
his earlier tales Originally it was single room
in which he lived with his mother. but with each
successful literary venture, MaupasSaEt has added
wing. until to-day it vies with the ancient chat
eaus Of the valley.
On the opposite side OF the road tower the bat
Elements and turrets of the splendid chateaus OF
Queen Isabel, of Spain; then the spacious home OF
Offcnbach, where he wrote The Grand Duchess"
and where his daughters continue to pass their
summers. On neighboring hillside Is en-
countered the villa of Mr.. Richard Corbin. of
Philadelphia. many years a resident Of Paris. His
daughters have married into the French nobility,
one being the wife of Count dAygueS Vivel.
Every hamlet on the coach road has its pictu
rescue stone church and neighborng church,
yard. rich in white, purple and blackbead wreaths,
souvenirs of the survivors affections. Soon We
were rumbling by the Villa FleurS, whose horti-
culture evoked a cry Of delight to be silenced by
a son Of Madame Grundy.
That's the COuntesss villa. Don't know the
Countess? Well, she hasn't been a countess long,
but what matters, the title Will be on her tomb
stone. and her ambition achieved. She was an
actress in her youth, long time ago, to be sure.
She resembles now a bit of cracked Egyptian
ceramic GhronoOgicaly mended with jewels OF
every epoch. Penuri0us old soul in the Countess.
After the Counts death the flowers disappeared
from the gardens. II is not CONNIE IL fault to have
flowers blooming when the mistress is in mourn
ing sighed the Countess"
The villagers greeted us as our Jehu rcined up
at the coach Office. IL was page out Of the
1910 chapter of American history. The shop
windows of Etratat reflect Paris and on the
beach is much of the aroma Of the Bots de Bou-
logne The French take pleasure simply. The
display and rivalry Of wealth in dress, equipage
and entertainment characteristic of American
watering resorts is not met on the Norman shore
Beneath the beach flows at ebb tide Stream OF
fresh water. Every morning the washerwomen
with the dirty linen Of gay Iarsians on their
backs may be seen vending their way to The
beach They dig holes in the white pebbles, TIE
fresh water guSheS forth. The clothes are dipped
i'm irrespective of color or texture, concentrated
I've is poured over them with recklessness that
would derange New-England housewife. The
pebbles form the washboards, and fragile lace and
costly cmbroideries are numerically beaten. With
the coming i'm of the tide the washing is hastily
gathered in packs, hauled higher up the beach and
'r'B Bathing begins at 10 O'Clock and continues
until - The beach is u panorama OF color,
fashion ard beauty The bathing suits of French
women are not rs chic those 81 their American
sisters, while often they are liable to be quite
ne modest They wear no stockings An evening
paslime is watching the iishcrwomen and girls
maui up the boats. Like dumb, driven cattle
they make their hundred revolutions round the
spindle day after day, for the princely sum OF
four dollars a year. They live in dread lest a
modern invention rob them of this ancient means
Of livelihood, as the machines Of Rouen long since
senccd their looms On red herring hauls
and the summer visitor sUbsist these
nineteenth century offspring of eleventh century
invinclblc aristocracy than those Norman fisher
folks They have much In common with Cape
Cod and Massachusetts, fisher folks, many OF whom
dubbed the brothers and English and American
accent finds reader welcome in the peasants cot
taee than Partisan, because many Normans have
gone to Paris accumulated fortunes and fond of
returning 70 their native heath with pervenu airs
The casino is beauty, fashion and celebrities camp
ing ground IL built at the suggestion of
Guy du Maupassant, Ofenbach, and Albert Wolf,
The FiraroS" famous art critic who continues 10
spend his summers at Etetat, do many stars Of
Gomcdie Franchise, Opera Coniquc, aud Grand