The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-08-08
Tho New Costume for Women.

Tho New Costume for Women.
The Chautauqua dress reformers seem to
have reached no agreement as to the exact
costume they will recommend to women. A
conservative party would content itself with
discarding corsets, substituting the divided
skirt for tho prevailing petticoat, and,
perhaps, shortening the gown. A radical
party would 60 80 far as to adapt to gen.
eral feminine use the tights and trunks
worn upon the stage.
The beginning Of dress reform, according
to Mrs. PARKER, the leader Of the move
ment, was the advocacy Of a shorter skirt
or petticoat. But fashion itself decreed that
women's gowns should DO shorter, at least
on the street and on ordinary occasions, and
the reformers had nothing to do with bring
ing the change about. Moreover, the
shortened petticoat does not adapt the cos
tune to the use Of women who are engaged
In business competition with men. Their
drapery still interferes with their move
ments, and hampers their activities, and
the corset remains to restrain the
exercise OF their full strength. Therefore
the reform must go further, and cut of the
skirts until they are no longer than High
lander's kilt, and Lessen the number and
variety Of the under draperies. II the work
ing women are to be habitcd "a fifty as men
for their employments. II women should
consent to adopt the knickerbocker cos
tune. with tunic or jacket or blouse. they
would really have the advantage OF men in
the matter Of q work day dress.
That would be compromise with the rad
tmo ~nP0 yh~ {1t-
modification Of the tights worn on the stage.
Those tights unquestionably set off young
and shapely figure to great advantage. but
their revelation Of the actual lines Of nature
is so complete that it Is reported that only a
few women Of the stage can wear them
without exposing grave detects in their
anatomy; and accordingly padding is used
frequently to swell them out. Probably,
then. 1t will be wiser to stop the reform short
OF tights until under the Chautauqua influ-
ence. and tho operation of the law OF selec-
ton. the Venus OF Milo becomes the type of
tho average feminine figure; for this move
mont views with horror all devices such as
padding and the other articles resorted to
on the stage.
We suggest to tho reformers that they
study the effect Of the present bathing dress
for women before deciding on the costume
they will adopt. This dress is not unbecom-
Ing. In very many cases 1t is remarkably
becoming; 1t allows perfect freedom OF
movement, 1t consists Of only two pieces,
with the exception OF the stockings. and it
is entirely modest. II 1t were not thus
modest it would not be worn openly by
thousands OF women at the seaside, often
yxifh ha ctr NJ
costume for work could be devised, and
with suitable undergnrments 1t could he
made warm enough for any weather OF this
climate. Women young and old wear it on
the sea beaches without fear OF beholders
and hence 1t might not less appropriately be
worn In the public streets. 1t could also be
beautifled with color and decoration, so that
the feminine desire for adornment would be
satisfied. or course the head dress would
have to be changed to adapt itself to the new
costume. pages cap might be introduced
for young ladies' aud something soberer for
their elders. II would be easy to devise the
requisite and becoming article. Some sug-
gestion how women would look In the dress is
afforded by tho appearances OF little girls In
short gowns and stockings shown to tho
knees.
Perhaps 1t would be we'll for the Chautau-
qua reformnrs to sound tho sentiment OF
women on this subject. They have become
used TO the bathing costume, and the ado?-
ton OF 1t rs their ordinary dress might do
less violence 10 their prejudiceS than an
other and an entirely new costume devised
at Chautanqua. But whatever the costume
approved by the reformers. they can only
make it fashionable by inducing leaders OF
fashion to wear 1t publicly and pcrsstenty.
If the Princess Of WALES. for instance, with
the support of Queen VICTORIA. should ADOPT
this innovation, tho reform might become
fas hionable. moro especially II 1t displayci
the beauty OF women to greater advantage
than the present style.
The first necessity OF the Chautauqua re-
formers. therefore. Is to consult the arbitcrs
OF fashion. Until they do that. they will
work in vain. Simply because they may be
sensible and strong In argument they will
never bring about the change they desire.