Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1891-08-26
TARIFF AND DISEASE,
[continued ron seoona Paqc. ]


All agree that shoddy is not wool,
and that its use involves a large ele-
ment OF deterioration. What ii may be
and generally is in its primal state may
be inferred, II one remembers that so
long as wool fabric retains its original
form It rarely passes out Of use by men
or animals, 70 become economically ser
viceable for the manufacture OF shoddy
and its cOngenerS, until IL has become
so saturated with and so repulsive from
impurities, largely OF an organic nature,
that It can no longer subserve eny origl-
nal purpose as fabric.
THE WOOL TARIFF BILL OF 1867.
When the celebrated wool tariff bill
OF 1867 was before Congress, the men,
bers OF the Executive Committee OF the
National Association of Wool Manufac-
tursrs characterized Shoddy in their re-
pert as "worthless material, and advo-
Gated the imposition Of more stringent
duties" on its importation; and further
declared that if textiles made
from shoddy are to be admitted
under low duties the country would ''oe
inundated with wretched fabrics"
which il would be the part OF patriot
ism, common sense and regard for
popular health TO effectually prevent
by National legislation. And in the de-
bates on the bill in question in Congress
no little elOquence was expended In de-
picting the calamity and nastineSs
which would be entailed on the Ameri-
can people if they were TO be tempted
By cheaDness into the wearing of wool
en- garments made Of Old rags, necessa-
rilv gathered 10 a large extent from
slums, poor-hOuses and hospitals, and
made additionally loathsome by contact
with bodies affected by typhus and ship
fever, smallpox, ScrOfula and all man
ner Of terrible and uncomfortable dis
eases. The recommendations of the
wool manufacturers were adopted, and,
70 make sure OF putting the accused
stuff completely under the ban, tie du-
ties on imports were advanced 300 per
cent. Note now the consequences.
MORE sHODDY, LESS WOOL.
With a clear field guaranteed to them
against the competition OF the disre-
putable foreign manufacturers, and de-
barred also from supplying themselves
with coarse and cheap, but sound
woods, by reason of the heavy duties on
their importation, American manufact-
urers have tumbled over each other, as
70 were, In their eagerneSS TO mGnufact-
urer shoddy; and the American people
today TO the extent that they wear
what are termed WOODEN clothes OF
American manufacture probably wear
more shoddy and less wool than the
people Of any other country.
A brief history at this point Of the
use Of shoddy in the United States Is
essential 80 the completeness OF the dis
cussiOn. Originally, or previous TO 1860,
IL was used only for padding and stuff
ing saddles aud the like. The war op-
ened up a large opportunity for its pro-
ftable use in fabrication of army cloth for
oVercoats, and the quality of such over
coats has not yet passed out OF public
memory. In 1870 the domestic annual
consumption was reported at about
10, 372, 600 pounds and In 1880 at an
amount equivalent to about 100000
pounds Of unwashed wool. According
10 the census Of 1850, Al per cent. Of
the material that constituted the So
called wooden fabrics Of the country
was something that was not wool.
AS 70 the proportions OF shOddy, and
other materials not wool, which enter
into the wooden fabrics OF the United
States at the present time, nothing, in
the absence Of the census returns for
1890, can be definitely affirmed. And
il Is extremely doubtful whether data
admitting OF correct estimate will now
be furnished by manufacturers, or If
furnished, will be given publicity by
the present census authorities. There
are, however, some very significant
facts, independent Of the census and
accessible to the public, which will help
TO the formation of an intelligent
opinion on this subject. For ex-
ample, the importation of old
WOODEN rags, shoddy waste" and the
like began to augment almost as soon
as the restrictive influences OF the tariff
Of 1867 on the importation Of wool began
TO be experienced. During the year
1870, SIP, 792 pounds were returned as
imported; in 1850 the imports were l.
3ss, 233 pounds, and in 1889, s,562,2O9
pounds, and increase in nine years of
over 500 per cent. Two differences
from these facts are certainly
warranted. First: That rising the
duties on shoddy On 1867 800 per cent.
in excess of the rates Of 1866, and which
action it was claimed was certain to
protect the American wool grower, has
not protected him q bit. Second: That
the American wool consumer Is getting
comparatively moro shOddy and less
wool in his clothing than at any former
period.
MANUFACTURE AND USE OF BOGUS
WOOLENS
There Is also a good deal OF evidence
tending 20 show that even shOddy is be-
coming too expensive and therefore TOO
good for the protected American masses
TO use as material for their wooden
clothing, and that cheaper cotton, with
less of warmth and fitness, is being sub
stituted. Within the last few months
QS91), the managers Of a leading
trade journal-the New York Dry Goods
EcOnOmiSt-with a view of obtaining
some cefnte information on this SUBJ
ject, and more especially OF determining
why certain typical American wooden
manufacturers-memb OF the Manu-
facturers' Club, Of NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
ed high and restrictive duties on the i'm
port OF wool, and others equally prOmi-
nent-memberS of the Wool Consumers
AssOciatiOn-were earnest advocates OF
free wool, subjected to an analysis two
pieces OF similar wOrsted cloths made by
the respective parties. The results
were as follows: A fabric made by
the firm Of Thomas Dolan & Co., repre-
senting the former-Mr. DOlan being
also President of the Philadelphia Man
ufScturers' Club-and sold in large
quantities during the present season at