New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-12-06

manner that IL lowering to his dignity and painful to
his guests it certainly better that the service should
be rendered for him oat of sight in the buffers pantry
often wishes that these hosts who are incapable
OF carving should attend some school for carvers In
order 10 revive this old-tme art
correspondent sends the following letter to these
columns bringing up several subjects OF such general
interest that we hasten to publish 1t. lie says
always read your page in The Tribune with interest
cakes In the Arabian Nights" it always had an
allurins sound and often wondered what they were
very much doubt II the cheesecakes offered by our
bakeries resemble them. Do you happen to know the
secondly Why is 1t that no bakery in either New,
York Brooklyn has cornbread Tor Sale-corn OF
pains to export il to Europe and yet l doubt If
CITY child In thousand has ever tasted cornbread
no two country housekeepers make it exactly alike
but when II is well made, with plenty OF eggs and
make e sms GtasT seeS
that Is not cornbresd. by any means The meal
table iS dish often served at the Brittany hotels
the dish or pan in which it was cooked in the
This dish was about three inches deep and filled TO
and have often regretted not asking how 1t made
but potatoes and apples the chief features They
thickness and placed in alternate layers in the pan,
and then baked CAS- apples bake more quickly than han
boiled) 1t was a rich and juicy dish; Butter was
Of the ingredients certainly but what the Others
menng ~ have no doubt that the expert American
cook could make a very savory dish
you Observer Do American girls and women as
rule, write as careful and grammatical letters as
their chlrography does not compare fav0raby. Per
haps the European school system Of making writing
Furthermore, the children made 10 copy verbatim
compositions of the best authors and mistake OF
the scholar still more severely, the teacher then die
tates to the school from tie writings of any classic
poSsble To the chldrcn's credit be it said that
many do write under dctaton with scarcely mistake
America could do it? Read the letters written BY many
whom one would suppose ladies and gentlemen; note
jumblng Of sentences-even Of p1rdgraphs-the
wretched composition and the total lack OF any
attempt at punctuation or the proper OF capitals
or If punctiated, made more meaningless by It, And
as foi method style, that would be too much to
have been rereading Bazac's Petty Annoyances
Married LIFE ard noie hs hsrmag ets v Of
none Of these supposed 10 be highly educated
onar{ Ffnoa women e IN geo q
which gave the charm to these letters and that In
fact he composed them but none the les thcrs VIII
neither. who win write letters In similar vein.
And doubt Balzac in his strict adherence TO facts,
did actually take letter from feminine correspondence
as models for those introduced
The cheesecakes" referred to in "The Arabian
Niphtp arc undoubtedly the cheesccdac OF old English
cookery this being merely the translators idea Of a
cate OF luxurious description. They are not made
from any preparation Of cheese but sweet dainty
made by beating cusan to curds adding rennet
TO milk TO form curds then adding sweeenng. cream
and seasoning and sometimes fruit. such cakes were
commonly baked In crust like a tart The famous
" Maids of Honor" or lemon cheesecakes," which
are said to have been made at the town Of Richmond
since the time Of Elizabeth baked in such crust
NJ mill Of
milk cup of sugar the juice Of one lemon. and the
yolks Of five eggs, with half saltspoonful OF salt
The sweet and milk are boiled together TIL they
fall into curd The whey is then strained of and
thrown away and the dry cur is then rubbed through
a seive The sugar and yolks Of the eggs are beaten
together and added to the curd. Tie juice end
grated yellow nd Of the lemon is then put in and final
" The salt. Tiny patty pans which will hold about
tablespoonful OF the mixture are lined with thin
m ste are filed and the cheescckes are baked about
twenty minutes In a moderate oven. Almond cheese
cakes are made by beating eight eggs carefully into
n QUAR- Of boiling MILK stirring the custard until IT
thckens and finally breaks into curds. The curds are
pre,sed dry two cups OF rich cream are added and
sugar enough TO make the mixture as sweet as Gus
tard Three ounces OF blanched Jordan almonds
and three bitter almonds, also blanehed, are
now beaten TO paste Win roseWatef. III
will be necessary TO have ngnum-vitae mortar and
pestle to do this. This paste Is now added to the
sweetencd mixture Of curds and Half pound
OF stoned rasins lightly drcdged with flour also
stirred in Pattypans OF liberal size are lined with
very thin paste filed with this mixture and baked for
half an hour. Or a goodszed pieplate Is lined with
thin paste the almond cheesecake mixture Is poured
in and IL is baked like any pie with an open crust
We do not think these cakes of Arabian origin.
In reference 10 cornbread, The Tribune bns fire.
auently drawn attention to various kinds That are
made from the sweet, while cornmeal from the south
which requires little sugar to make il pslatabe,
and few eggs aud also TO the rules for the use Of the
yellow meal the North which requires the liberal use
OF sugar and of some eggs. Though cornmeal, as
our correspondent says Is national and Characteristic,
vet IL very difficult 10 get good sweet Indian meal
The klndried process by Which Yankee invention has
secured meal that will keep In the hands OF groeers
an indefinite time has also eliminated much OF the
sweetness OF the corn. The moist, sweet cornbread
of olden memories cannot DO made Of cornmeal that