Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-03-08

ling" the herring. The grand plan OF the
harbor was executed under the direction OF
Joas johnson, a Dutchman. And every
where among the ancient shops, habitations
and fishermen's homes of Yarmouth are
numberless structures, behind which one
feels certain must be found folk with tas-
seled caps, short skirts, boddiced waists,
wooden shoes and the marvellous pipes OF
Holland.
This is nowhere more noticeable than in
the narrow maze of streets intersecting the
main thoroughfares from east to west.
There are nearly 200 of these. They are
called Rows" None of them are 10 feet
in width; the most are less than 6; and
across many, friendly hands can be shaken.
believe that it was Dickens himself who
in Household Words said Yarmouth is one
vast sridiron, of which the bars are repre-
sented by the rows" AS rule this por-
ton OF the city, houses the lowly. At
nearly every door some indication of the
fsherman's lie is apparent Bits of wreck
are lying in this one to be transformed into
Lighters" or kindling. Sinkers and buoys
are piled in another entrance. Models Of
anchors, srnacks and full-rigged ships adorn
ground-hoor windows; while from the case
ments and meager balconies above, every
thing that can hang and dry in SO little
space, from q suit of "oiiskins" swaying
like fsherman-scarecrow, to quarter
mile herring-net in folds, or mainsail of a
smack, flps and slaps the facades on either
side In easy and friendly familiarity.
A Vehicle Peculiar to YARN outh.
There is but one vehicle in all Yarmouth
which can traverse these shadowy 'rows,"
many of them as close and dim as the sunless
thoroughfares of old Algiers. This is called
the Yarmouth cart" 1t is a genuine
antique, but remains in general use, because
necessary for service in "the rows" 1t has
two wheels, low and heavy. The stout rack
or frame which they support runs rearward
and upward at an obtuse angle, and, to the
'front.' the same distance, at the same angle
along the lower part of the shafts. One
horse only is used. The cartman usually
balances the cart in loading directly over
the wheels, but If not accomplishes tine
same by the addition of his own weight.
Tine shafts are of extraordinary length, like
those of the curious Cuban volante. You
will frequently find them fully IA feet long
from tips to socket, where they really begin.
A cavalcade of these empty carts, Gathering
down the quaint old streets on their home
ward way at eventide, with the dimly-de
fined perspective of ancient facade and
tower, will easily flash into ones fancy the
suggestion of a procession of chariots return
ing from the Roman races of old.
There is little at Yarmouth and round
about for actual Identification of the things
and folk Dickens made you think were
here, save in all the seawise flavor in objects
and men. In that respect you can at once
find innumerable families Of the Peggotys.
When you have crossed the Yare and wan
dered into the old city, here and there you
will lind, just as in "Copperfeld's" time, the
same quaint shops of the the "Dra pers,
Tailors. Haberdashers, Funeral Furnish
ers ETC., as the one over which the CHEEKY,
asthmatic Mr.. Omer presided. But the
dear old boat house is gone. First the city
pushed down across the sands and hid it.
Then, IL years ago, the roofs from some
tumble-down buildings were removed, and.
no one suspecting its existence, the crum-
bling hulk was discovered. There it stood,
just as Dickens knew it and peopled it; the
side door preserved; the little pane of glass
where the rudder had run through, un-
broken. the very same window intact in
which the candle was set for Little m'ly's
return. EDGAR L. WAKEMAE,