Morning journal and courier., 1891-06-24

gold, forms a distinctively elegant toilet
for summer evening full-dress wear. The
lace is made up over q sheath princesse
dress of Cleopatra yellow watered silk,
with half-low bodice and short sleeves of
the same silk. The lace sleeves are in
bishop fashion, with stylish cuffs of the
lace over the moire fabric.
All sorts of pretty fancies are intro
duced in the fashioning of light bodices
and waists for the vacation season. The
Spanish, Swiss and peasant waists with
pretty ribbon accessories are now almost
indispensable to a we1-regulated toilet for
a young lady, to say nothing of the fchus,
berthss, vests and bretelles of lace or chif-
fon which in a very economical way trans
form quiet gown into a charming and
dressy one, and over an elegant dress these
beautiful additions but enhance its origi-
nal beauty.
For the seaside and the watering places
light summer silks" are again in great
demand, and the popularity they enjoy is
merited by their delicate elegance and CON
venience also. They are light, cool, dres-
sy and pleasanter to wear than any other
silk fabric, not excepting the wash silks.
The new designs are less fantastic than the
patterns of several years past. A great
abundance of fancy lace is the popular
trimming for light silks of all kinds this
year, but ruehings, frills and hounces of
the silk are far more appropriate, especial
ly if the dress is to do duty on many and
varied occasions.
An uptown dressmaker says that in Or
dering their summer outfits, the most of
their best gowns, but, shs adds, that she
made not few under protest, as the Med
lei collar makes every short woman look
dnrnnu rnir7pnr lnol- hrool ahAr1
dered and stout, and that the elegant
French seamless corsage that all cry for
requires a faultless figure, for it brings
out every defect most mercilessly. Her
experience is that the shortest women de-
sire the deepest flounces, the tallest col
lars. the highest sleeves, and they often
demand a round waist, while those with
the most ambitious and aggressive shoul-
der-blades choose the severe tailor style,
the smoothest waist and the least bodice
trimmings.
Dainty diaphanous textiles are still stud
ded with mock jewels, and also enriched
with Grecian borderings in shaded silks,
mingled with gold and silver threads.
Silk nets, beautiful beyond words, and al
together costly, are wrought in odd
French color schemes on grounds of
cream, silver, rose-color, eau de Nil, etc.
Sprays of detached primroses. eglantine,
wild honeysuckles, sweet-pea blossoms
and June roses are extremely effective
worked on the surface of the net with an
appropriate foundation of tinted silk.
Russian silk net, figured in various colors,
notably yellow, msuve or golden green,
make up charmingly over colored China
silk skirt with chemisettes of silk chiffon
above the low silk waists. The high full
sleeves are of the chiffon make up over
finest silk muslin to keep them from q
limp appearance. The muslin is always
the shade of the chiffon.
Beautiful summer tints are introduced
in many of the imported gowns of black
net, lace chiffon and grenadine; for exam
pie, black crepe de Chine is softly draped
over a skirt of Marie Antoinette matelssse
silk brocaded with small brilliant flowers,
and the foot of the skirt is edged with a
ruche of the fringed silk, showing a deli
cious combination of the exquisite shades
of the flowers in the silk. The gown is
designed for very slender weare., and
there is pointed bodice of the crepe de
Chine over Russian guinpe of the mate
lasse silk, with full sleeves of the same
fastened up the inside of the arm to the
elbow with vari-colored enamel buttons,
picked out in gold. The sheath skirt be-
meath the crepe de Chine drapery is mar
rowly gored and finished with demi
| train at the back.