New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-10-18
c,ov , sr.yy CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRIBusR3
Inverness, Tuesday evening. Sept 70

uros . STAFF CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRrBuM'
Inverness. Tuesday evening. Sept. ~.
Tho Portland Hills vanish TO the southwark I'M
ler clouds OF pale blue steel through when 'he
silver globe of the morning sun strives '"lhiS "
breal it's way casting dim gray twilight over inc
wide green landscape and adding to It's beauty ny
this fine contrast of color. The tide is ouo' as VIC
cross the Forth Bridge, and many ooa's are
acronnd nuon the sands beneath it; but many
vessels, including trim ship OF war; are az
anchor in the stream and the graceful stone piers
the gray villages on the hanks of Forth. ana the
miniature lighthouses on the little rocks along us
channel make the same lovely picture as OF oia'
The water. much beaten by the equinoctaI ram
~ the last two or three days. is smooth and oi
sullen brown & fresh cool wind Is oiowlhg'
and birds are on the wing Soon The SUNSHINE
grows stronger and upon the emeralo Mus anu
plains around Dunfermline there are eXquslte Ell
fects of golden light and of passing shadow. Inc
old church-tower shows grand beneath wiid SKY
and in our ftful glimpse of 1T we think OF tne
grand life that ii commentaries, ana revere 'nc
GOOD Queen Margaret whose grave was mace az i'S
base On many hillsdes around this ancient Guy
are sheaves Of the harvest, and we note the calm.
self-absorbed cattle. grazing in the wet meadows
The clouds that had dispersed grow suddenly
dense but shafts of sunlight linger continually on
the high SUBMITS of the bleak, distant hills ana
presently the blue of heaven shines through great
riffs in the sullen sky and all Nature seems TO De
rejoicing after the storm. The little blrnles,
which are full to OVERLOOKING, rush gayIy on
their course and murmur and sparkle as they speed
along Scores Of sheep couch in the pastures,--the
placid images of innocent content. Loch LeVeh
is revealed to usits wide, gray water gleamlhg III
the fitful sun.-and we gaze upon Its island ana
upon the little dark town that Is nestled on lts
shore, our thoughts fly away to the remote days
of Mary Stuart and we see her midnight hitting
across tie stormy waves and muse once more upon
the fascination of that imperial nature. victorious
over SO many noble souls and now, at the distance
of more than three centuries. still vital ana stl
triumphant Toward Perth the country grows
more billy and rocky, and we traverse tunnels and
speed through deep ravines that are dcnsely clad
with the beautiful Scotch fir. Upon the more
distant bills there are copses which have aristo
cratic effect of studied refinement while numerous
sheep, reposing amid the dark green broom. show
upon the landscape like little balls of White wool
Down in the lowlands are haystacks shaped like
ancient towers-one sign, among many others. OF
the manner in which the forms of the Middle Ages
have affected the taste of to-day. Perth itself lies
couched In green glen, with lovely wooded hills
around it. and as we speed into its beautiful val
ley, the sky is dome of almost cloudlcss blue,
flooded with golden light Northward. a brown
red castle rises stately among the trees, and soon
see the glistening water of the superb Tay wind
ing of through the most opnlent meadows of
Scotland. Never could memory lose such a piet.
ure,-the brilliant green of the fields the patches
of red clover; the beds of marigold; the purple of
heather; the wild luxuriancc of the bracken; the
vine-clad stone walls; the groves of poplars. and
larch. and oak and pine the thick leaved boughs
tossing and the many -colored flowers trembling in
a cold brisk wind; the constantly changing out
lines Of the distant hills and over all, the bene-
diction of the golden sun. This part of Scotland
is as finely cultivated as the best of England. and
similar t. it, and sometimes superior to it, in effect
OF opulence and beauty.
For long distance after leaving Perth our
course is through fertile valley. The sun lies
warm upon it and the vegetation is very rich. No
observer could fail to notice, in this region, the
splendid effect of sunshine glinting through the
trees-the foliage Illuminated and glowing as if
with internal light In little while we come to
Dunkeld, and then presently to Dalguise. II is a
lonely country,but all the lOvelier for its lone-
ness. The hills around are craggy and the
gaunt rocks stare through the trees. There is a
wealth Of woodlands, of remarkable variety, and
many pretty roads wind away and are lost in
them. The bushes are covered with hips and
The deep ravine. Pine forests begin to crown the
hills, and our gaze fingers pleased upon little
slielings OF gray stone nestled in the sheltered
dells. We are coming to Pitlochre now, which
Is one of the loveliest places in the Highlands,
and 10 that famous Pass Of Killiccrankie, through
which, in frenzy Of panic, the broken and
bleeding ranks Of the English fed from the vic
torious Highlanders of Dundee. The houses of
Pitlochrie, made of gray stone and rising amid
groves of birch and Scotch fir, are blazing with
roses and with the brilliant purple shields of
the clematis and around them the crisp air is
honied with the balmly fragrance Of the pine.
The TUNNEL and the Garry commingle here the
scenery blends rugged grandeur with tranquil
refinement; and surely it may be said that few
spots in all Great Britain are loyelier than this
one. A glowing autumn sun pours its
food Of crystal light upon the wild Pass
of Kiliiecrankie as we dash through it, and the
narrow rapid stream in the depth of the verdurous
mountain gorge is burning with the lustre of
river OF diamonds Every element Of
great scenery,-eXcepting, perhaps the American
element Of great size,-may be seen at Killie-
cranlSie and from there 10 Blair-Athoc. They
have marked with memorial stone the place.
upon the battlefield, where the victorious Caver-
house feii,-a mighty spirit; hero equally OF his
tory and romance; great soldier; perhaps, after
Montrose the greatest soldier that Scotland has
ever known. Our thoughts are full of him as we
rush through this wild and glorious region of
bis last battle, his brilliant victory. and his
triumphant death. Ended long ago that I'M
availing strife-that useless, pathetic waste of
valor and vigor and blood. Nothing but an
epitaph remains to tell Of it. But genius can
hallow whatever it touches; and as long as the
stars hold their courses in the heavens this grand
mountain pass and haunted glen will keep the
hallowed memory of the great Marquis of Dundee.
Scant pause is allowed us for REVERE. The great
are gole-but the sun shines and the roses
bloom, and if we would them at all we must
Gee them now When Dundee fought his battle