Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
A STREET SCENE IN VALPARAISO.

| winding pathway-part wooden stairs, part
stone pavement at sharp incline and slip
perry as glass; turning now to the right now
to the lett, according to the zigxag trail,
clinging to the iron railing that partially
protects the path as it rounds the cape Of
some mans garden; while brisk breeze
turned our sunshades wrong side out and
threatened to serve our garments in the same
manner.
Pretty as Rosebud.
At length we were compelled to sit down
on the stairs, ostensibly because SO charmed
with the scene below, but in reality from
lack of breath to carry us another step. Just
then handsome Chilena tripped past, trail
ing q black velvet gown weighted with
pounds of jet beads. yet looking unwearied
and fresh as rosebud in june. But she
lives up here and is. used to it, and that
makes all the difference in the world, you
knowl A boy with a hundred-foot ladder
might climb from the 'sPuerto" straight up
into her back yard in three minutes time,
while to reach the front door she must wind
around the hills mile or more. Almost
any resident Of this part of the town could
easily surprise his nearest neighbor by slip
ping off his own porch and landing on the
latter's roof; and if child should happen
to fall from the window of many q house.
he would "bring up" on the stone-paved
street, 500 feet below.
But the glorious view is worth climbing
for. There are beautiful hills, rising one
above another, dancing cataracts and ma
iestic mountains; there is the cresc ent-shaped
bay without ripple upon its burning sur
face, its ships motonless as she eted ghosts
and its rolling tides washing he gray rocks
ut our feet-all combining to produce an
effect OF profound peacefulness.
War Mars the Picture.
1t is difficult to believe, amid birds and
butterflies and golden sunshine, that war in
its most horrible form, that Of brother
against brother, is eluging this fair coun-
try with blood-impo ssible to realize that
famine is abroad in the land, and that even
now starvation thr eatens the citizens OF this
.'Vale of Parad ise," as we'll as those OF
Chiie's capital, since no crops can be har-
vested or fresh supplies brought in from any
source so long as the present deplorable
state of affairs continues. Already the little
food to be had commands prices far beyond
the reach of the poor, and there is much suf.
fering, especially among the families of
conscript ted soldiers. And what will it be
weeks later-or may be only days hence
} when the advancing horde comes marching
in? In spite of Herculean efforts to crush
the rebellion. President Balmaceda is rap
idly losing ground; and rs the insurgents
gain boldness with each victory. their nat
ural cruelty increases and revolving atroci-
ties become matters of every day.
Viewed from this altitude, the streets in
the level portion of the town look insignii-
cant, but their vast array OF red-tIed roofs
makes pleasing picture. The houses are
mostly threc-storied, with thick walls plas-
tered to represent stone. Mr.. Spangler,
recent missionary teacher from Kansas, de-
clares that their stiff, straight-up-and-dow
lines are so out OF harmony with the gra-
cious landscape that they suggest to him
cold, damp and cramp collie, and such in
congruous things as an undertaken at pic
mic, and corpse at wedding.
The Houses Will Hardly Burn.
But Spanish-American architecture, j.
though different from anything found at the
North, has its beauties and advantages.
Among the latter may be mentioned the inn
portant TACT that the houses are hard TO burn.
The roofs OF earthen tiles, embedded in dried
mud, are extremely picturesque, especially
in these DIST sections, where their dull.red
surface soon takes on u coating of moss and
lichens. Should a fire originate in the
rafters, or in the boards and sheeting be-
meath, it would go out of its own accord
after they were burned away, .because the
heavy mud covering. falling in, would
efectually smother the confagration.
BY the way, one of the institutions of
Chile most conspicuous for its oddity is the
fire department. All natives are compelled
by law to serve as bomberos (6remen), or in
the militia; and as most of the swell young
men prefer the former, the fire companies re-
semble clabs, or similar social organizations,
and are cl,qued according to the strictest
rules Of caste. It is intensely funny to see
the bomberos out on drill, which is made
the occasion for stunning display Of their
smart informs of white linen and glitter
ing nickel-plated helmets; and funnier still
to see them at 6re--except ior those whose
property is being destroyed. The gorgeous
FIRE, but their efforts, when they conJesceHd
to make any, are merely directed to check
ing its spreau by delugirg adjacent houses.
thereby generally accom- 4plishing quite as
much damage by Nsterias is done by fire.
It is not uncommon ferIs Isoms nearby msr-