The morning call., 1891-01-04
THE ORIGIN
OF VALLOMBROSA.
A Sweet Old Tale the Books Tell That
Is Largely True.
An Enchanting Description Of the Monastery
Built About Nine Hundred Years ago.
Its Present Surroundings.
Special to THE SUNDAY CALL

FLORENCE Qtaly). Nov. "a. 1S9O.-That Is
a sweet old tale the books tell about the
origin of Vallombrosa. 1t is both sweet and
largely true. A man of arms about TO take
life in revenge for the murder of his own
brother, suddenly filed with divine compass
sion for his enemy, forgave him. This man.
Giovanni Gaulberto, to commemorate llis
salvation from a damning deed. built the
monastery of Vallombrosa, nearly 900 years
ago. Milton, in the three lines,
Thick autumnal leaves that strew the brooks
In Nallombrosa where the Etrurian shades
High overarchd embOwer-
Made Vallombrosa endlessly live in the
minds of men. IL 10 the mOnastery's sup
preston had been added its material de-
structiOn, it would still forever arise against
its emerald mountain-side, as millions,
reading Millions words, see the vision he
saw in his swift longing to again dwell with
its monks, and yearn as he yeatned to know
the cool depths of its restful shade.
About 1000 feet from ValIombrosa'5 gates
is fountain of the purest water, leaping
from an everything spring. On summers
day in zoos Giovanni paused at this fountain
in search of hermitage. His family was
one of the noblest of Tuscany, from the
royal race of the CarlovnGians. He was
reared to the fortune of arms and received
the education of nobleman of his time In
his early life his career was reckless and
fiery. One of his bestowed friends, VS.
domlni, quarrelIng with his idolized brother.
Hugo, plunged q dagger into his heart and
killed him.
GIOVANNI swoRE VENGEANCE
Upon Vsdomini, pursuing him in vain for
years. At last one morning Of Good Fri
day in 1908, when on his way to Florence,
accompanied by his bOdy-guard, he sud
denly met his enemy in narrow, rock
bordered fore st path. Visdomini was at
GioYannPs mercy. The avengiug brother
drew his sword and called upon the muir
derer to prepare for instant death. With
out attempting defense he fell upon his
knees, and with hands outspread in the
form Of a cross sued for mercy. i he mode
OF prayer touched the heart of Giovanni.
Springing from his steed, he lifted his
enemy to his feet, forgave him and dis
missed him with his blessing.
This much is true; act as heroic and god
like as ever imprisoned rhymer sung.
Then perhaps legend comes; if legend, still
tender, fitting seQuel to glorious self-conquer-
ing. Filled with holy awe at what he had
himself escaped, Giovanni straightway
sought the neighboring monastery Of San
Minlato. lie Frustrated himself before a
crucix in prayer. Long and earnestly he
gazed upon the figure of Christ above him.
Lo! the image bent its head as if with bless
ing at his act Of mercy. Thereafter follows
historic truth. Giovanni related the miracle
to the abbott; abjured his Maynard career;
sought 10 enter the bro thorhOUd, but was for
time dlssuaded on account OF his noble
fathers opposition; but finally took the
religious VOWS of the order in April, 1904.
His pety soon became renowned. On the
death Of the abbott OF San Miniato III zoos,
he was chosen to succeed him, but
refused the the office under n desire
and 1t was at the fountain near the
peak of the PratOmagno Mountain, where
he had halted III his solitary wanderingS.
Near the spot, which was then called AcQua-
bella, he found two hermits, Paoio and Gun
telmo, who were living in huts These
Joined him, and there soon was gathered a
little community OF monks and hermtS
Their sufterlngs, prlvationS and self-inticted
fortunes were horrible. Robbers and Wild
beasts surrounded them, and both proved
upon them savagely. Their homes were at
first low huts with cross planted before
each and a central place for prayer, while
rude wooden pailng inclosed all. The fame
OF their sanctiLy became so great that gifts
flowed in upon them from every hand Elm
perUr Conrad H. the Empress Gisela and all
the court visited them and left generous
presents. Complete ordinances OF tn Bene-
dietines were finally adopted. The original
hermitage, Eremo, built in 1913. was repeat
eddy enlarged until finally completed in 1910,
as the structure stands to-day.
The order of Nallombrosans, 800 years
after the death of San Giovanni, which oc-
CURED IN 1913, after he had attained the
ripe age of 80 years, had become the richest
and most powerful in Italy; and
THIS ONE OLD MONASTERY
Held their chief treasure. For this order
Ciambue painted his priceless Madonna;
Perugino, his marvellous Assumption"
Emf Nall4mbrnGqFS dark Hnva with
the French Revolution. When Napuleon'S
council debated whether the Vailombrosans
should be spared because they kept the
wolves thinned in the mountains, ii was
asked:
shall we have monks or wolves?"
''Wolves!' was the answer
The monastery and church were de-
spoiled OF their priceless treasures, the I'M
mense domains were seized and the monks
were driven from their clOsteTs. Then.
when Napoleon Tell and Tuscany welcomed
back the sway of the AustrianS, the monks
were reinstated, but their match!ess paint
ingS, wondrOus veStmeutS, their art treas
ures and their stores of books and priceless
manuscripts had been scattered forever.
Victor Emanuel in 1860, at the Italian discs
tablishlnent, completed their extinction
here. The place is now used as an agrcul-
tural school, with corps OF resident pro-
feSS0rS; and just above the monastery is an
| observatory, one of The Italian signal and
weather stations of to-day. Beautiful as
ever is the matchless environment. No
ruthless hand can drive from its clois ers
the forms with which your fancy peoples it.
San Giovanni and Milton are still here.
Vallombrosa's bells still call you and from
a thousand leagues away, and their echoes
will never cease their melodies while Prato-
magno Mountain stands.
If you go to Vallombrosa, walk. 1t is
only seventeen miles as the crow flies; per-
haps twenty-five by, the enhancing way.
Every mile Of it gives changefu and be-
witcing views in that most dreamful of all
garden spots of Italy, the valley of the Arno.
Leaving Florence by the POrta ALA Croce,
the way leads along the right bank Of the
Arno. Scores of white valleys thread it as
pearls upon necklace, and here and there
area crosses and quain old shrines. AT
Pontassieve, the r0ade DIVORCES from the
ArnO, leading over the hills; and the real
ascent of PratomagnO TO Vallombrosa here
begins. Pelago is suon reached: Pelago,
crooked little town with bad inns and
swarms of beggars, by a brawling stream :;
where of wild nights when the wind
howls over the mountains, the old
crones sBudder and whisper "Ah, the
ghosts of the dead friars lave come back
to chant their litanies !" Then. across
blossoming, spaces, past terraces OF
olives and grain, winding around
the edges OF precipiceS above misty torrents
tumbling toward the Arno, and often
through silent arcades of frs where the
sunlight freckles the way like a brown
gypsy's face, slx-Ihile tramp brings you to
the tiny lumber hamlet of Tosi. From
Tosi paved way, along which stand gigan-
tic crosses, leads up, up, up to the monas-
terry, 5000 feet above the sea-level In the
| old days the monks went aud came on
hardy little donkeys: visitors were brought
| in carrozza da buoi, OF
"Cow CHARIOT"
| A wicker basket set ON sledge, drawn by
| those wondrous dove-coOred oxen OF Tus-
cany but now the old paved path has been
| transformed into modern road, and visl-
tors may ride in carriages from Florence
| to Vallombrosa's gates.
At ToSi looked up the mountain and saw
| away to the right, and above where l knew
the monastery lay, lines of blue smoke in
| feathery pencilings against the dark green
| of the massed mountain frs.
81 Those are the csrbonari. They never
| leave the mountain save on feast days,
i Ii.