The Sunday morning news. [volume] (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1886-1891, 1891-10-04

hiding the fasteBfngs is also good Long
graceful lines must be CHOSEN 10 the ar
ran2enent of any drapery on podice, and
short sleeveless Jackets are 10 be avoided
Polonaises ekillfdiiY managed dimini sh
the apparent size.
Cray suede ties are finished with gray
enaGeied rips
Black hats are trimmed with satin
ribbon and wings.
Fancy nude feather pieces come with
jewell effects.
Gray surah skirts are trimmed with
blnck lace rufhes.
A commendabie tendency to tighten
the weight of wool fabrics IS noticeable
In early importations Of autumn an1 win
ter dress goods. The warm, rich look is
retained BY ribs or cords, by Grape or
neecy finish, but the stuffs generally are
more lightly woven, their pure wool in
suring sufficient warmth for the coolest
weather. Another obvious tendency
is towards light shades of color, of
beige. gray, pearl and coral. and it is said
white cloth dresses will be worn all win
ter For walking dresses however the
chataigne or chestnut brown cloths.
various chrysanthemum shades of pur-
plish red and gray blue, dark mouse
color, green of both olive and emerald
hues, and also black woolens plaided
with pnrplish red, or striped or marbled
a
porcelain blue. Plain colors remain, as
always, the safest choice both for service
and refined effect but figured goods
abound in pastiIles, In V stripes. IN cross
bars and in marbled designs.
The reign of every sort OF vest is pro-
longed BY permission of the taiiors, who
still introduce bl0use-vests beneath loose
fronted coats. Vests are even worn with
riding habits, but in this case are severely
cut, and do not allow OF variation at will
Black, blue and green self-coiored cloths
are not the only coI0rs permitted TO the
equestrian. There are blue cloth figured
with tiny shaggy dots, which are acharm-
ing variety.
Felt hats In shaggy camel,s hair effects,
also felts notified, heather mixed, shot
and ombred, are brought out, to be worn
en- suite with tailor costumes Of similar
pattern. The sailor hat Is again among
the list, also the familiar Alpine shape
with It's dented crown considerably lower
than formerly. A neat ana very becom-
ing modification Of that old prime favor
lite, the English walking hat. has ap-
peared. less narrow on the front, and not
rolled closely to the crown on the sides,
making it more than ever becoming to
slender faced women, 90 whom the shape,
like the French turban, Is always boon.
The newest blonses are cut very long
wasted, the fullness being drawn in at
the waist, and have long frilled or plain
bias ques; they are worn without waist
bands, and have high collars. and sleeves
fairly full and high on the shoulders,
tapering down 70 the wrists; they are un-
trimmed.
Care must be taken in choosing the pat
terms OF the mat erals worn by stout fig-
ures. Horizontal lines must be carefully
avoided; long straight panels diminish
the apparent size. and great care
must be taken In hanging the
skirt. especially If 1t be plain one. Long
shallow plaits ought TO be inserted at the
back of the hips, and it should be man
aged that few soft horizontal folds fall
about a quarter of yard below the waist
in front, disgusting the outlines
of the figure The present style
of cutting the skirt on the cross is a help
IN this class OF dFessmaking, but striped
materials must not be chosen, and on no
account must the fabric be fitted to the
waist without Diaits, as now worn by
young people. The cross cut materials are
generally more elastic.
Crepon cloth is somewhat Of q novelty;
it can be had in various colors and is
generally made up in combination with
plain cloth; thus a cream crepon cloth
spotted with blue would be trimmed with
plain blue cloth, the full bodice, front of
dress. and upper portion of full sleeves Of
the crepon, the tight under sleeves from
the elbow, the zouave over jacket, with
high collar. waist-plece, and side and back
pieats of the plain cloth. This material,
which is French Introduction, is also
used for the ver-fashiouable blouse. and
worn over plain cloth or serge skirts.