The morning call., 1891-08-23
GENERAL REVIEW
OF FALL STYLES.
Personal Adornment Of The WGll-DrGSSed
Gentleman.
Chapter in Which the Sartorial Art Is Taught
In Its Greatest Perfection-What to Wear
in Order to Look Well.

anu art IN dress. The August number,
whlcn Is now out, is accompanied by
series OF plates illustrating the leading
staple styles with a completeness of detail
ana an artistic effectiveness that cannot
1ail to make them of unusual practical
Vaiue, and the supplement-. as a work Of
art, was never before equaled as fashion,
plate The tasteful dresser, glancing over
the plates, will realize the fact that in gen.
eral detail there is but very little change to
be detected in styles. The endeavor has
been successfully made to avoid everything
extravaganza, homogeneous or offensive in
mems apparel. Although in woven fabrics
1or mans adornment and comfort there are
lnnumerable designs that are decidedly
bold, there are very few which do not win
admiration by their delicate shadings, rich
ness and happy harmonies or contrasts of
coiorS and novel and artistic effects pro-
duced by stripes and plaids and wonderfully
ingenious weaving.
The SottneSs, richness, elegance and
beauty of the woolens for the coming fall
ana winter were never before equaled. But
the form and finish Of the garments on
which fashion smiles just now are as adj
mlraDe as the materials of which they will
be made, and their variety is almost inf
mite. Overcoats comprise the aristocratic
inverness and The democratic ulster the
elegant Chesterfield and the hybrid, abbre-
waited Covert Dress coats are distinguished
by the rakish angularity of the peaked
lapels and the voluptuous curvings of the
shawl roll. The princely black double
breasted frock coats carry their useless hip
buttons about midway between the collar
and the bottom of the skirt, and the grays.
wood-cOlnrs and browns are developing
skirts If phenomenal length. Getaways
are made with four buttons, three buttons
or one button, TO conform to the "altitud-
lnailon or the adlpose tissue Of the wearer.
Sacks are arranged in the same manner as
TO buttons, and in addition one style is
double-breaster, suggestive of comfort, hay
ing also the roll nearly the same as the
double-breasted frock. In vests there are
iow-opening sngle-breaste rs and double
breasted rich in coloring. Pants are suf-
ness of limb, but not sufficiently
wide to be characterized as peg-tops.
The arrangement of styles and material is
such that one can wear a modest suit cut
from one piece, or he can brighten the effect
by wearing vest of fancy material or can
blossom forth in dark coat, faucy vest and
light colOred fancy trousers. Add to this
dazzling costume neckties and scarfs of beau
THU form and color, hats that delight the
eye and gloves whose soft colorS and strik-
ing finish tempt the purchaser, and thus
clad, with canes of wonderful wood, embel-
lished with handles that dazzle the eye and
cost much money. swung ferrule up, man
becomes wonderful animal. Thus much
cation.
OvERCoATS.
The Chesterfield, or fy-front oyereoat, as
1t Is generally called, will be more worn
during the coming fall and winter than any
other overgarment. 1t will be chiefly made
for fall wear of soft woolens, though Ker-
seys and Bedfords will be much fancied and
are perfectly correct. Leaving out measure
mentS, which must conform to the size and
shape of the wearer, the general descrip-
10 nf wi Aar
seam, and silk-faced to the edge. The
ends of the collar and the edges
of the lapelS will be single stitched, narrow
and the seams turned and stitched to match.
The side pockets and the ticket pocket will
have flaps to 90 in or out, but the breast
pocket will be finished with welt The
sleeves will be of moderate width, and will
be finished with vent closed with one but
ton. For winter wear the materials that
will be generally used are fur and patent
beavers and metons. The difference be-
tween the fall and winter coat will be that
the latter will be longer. the lapels and col
lar wider, will be sllk-faced only to the end
OF the collar, will have the edges piped with
velvet, have all the packets finished with
flaps, to go in or out, have full or imitation
cuffs and have plain seams.
The double breasted oversack will be
made of plain beaver, Venetian or melton.
and will be cut from half to full box, gener-
ally the first. 1t will have well peaked
lapels, collar of velvet, the fronts from
two inches below the lower flaps evenly
spaced for five holes, the buttons from Az
to 81 inches from the edges, the edges
double stitched and the seams Tapped and
stitched to match, the pockets finished with
ample flaps to go in or out and the sleeves
finished with full cuffs.
Although the ulster will be worn by a
few, a majority of those who are much ex-
posed to the weather will wear instead
large, moderately loose fiy-front sack over
coat. with fiye-inch roll and a wide collar
All the pockets will have flaps to go in or
out the edges will be double-stitched and
the sleeves Will be finished with full or imi-
tati0n cuffs
An overcoat that, for want of a better
name. Is called the Covert coat, will be con-
slderably worn, especially by young men.
1t is really cross between the Covert, or
riding overcoat, and the Chesterfield, and
will average So inches in length. The back
Is cut whole, the seams are left open for
about AZ inches at the bottom. the form is
a half box and the roll is AZ inches long.
The lapels are rs inches wide at the top,
and the collar Is about an inch wider. The
edges are double stitched the seams are
Tapped and stitched to match; the sleeves
have three rows of stitching around the
bottom, and all the pockets have flaps to go
in or out. 1t will be made Of covert over
coating
The fur trimmed overcoat will be q loose
sack made of patent beaver or melton, with
an ample shawl collar of Persian lambs
wool, and lined with sea-otter or mink. 1t
will be heavily double breasted clos
ing with olivers instead of buttons; will be
double-stitched. with sleeves Tapped and
stitched to match, and the sleeves will have
deep, full cuffs.
The surtout will be made of fur-fnished
goods as well as of ratent beavers, melt0ns
and Venetians 1t will have velvet collar.
Except that 1t will be heavier the roll will
be the same as for double-b breasted frock.
The classical Inverness is for wear over
evening dress, and will be made of cheviot,
tur-beavers, cloths or mixed goods, of soft,
dark material, and will be made longer than
1t was last year. loose in the back. of ample
size IN front, and will have the cape long
enough to nearly cover the sleeves of the
undercoat. The fronts will roll and lap
about the same rs for the heavy Chester
field, and the edges will be double stitched.
The cape will extend to the crease and but
tons, and will be well rounded at the bot
tom. The side pockets will have flaps to 60
in or out, as will the ticket-pocket also, but
the breast pockets will be slash he'd in.
DoUBLE-BREAsTED FRocKs.
For day dress double breasted frock of
black wOrsted or cheviot, with a single
breasted vest Of light-colored material and
OF modest design, and with either fine
striped or smaIl-checked ight-coored
trousers, is generally worn, though with the
same vest and trousers a cutaway froch of
the same material as the double roasted is
just as correct. The coat should be faced
with SIR to the end of the holes. For
half dress it may be the same. or
may have the silk extended to the
end OF the collar only; or it may be
OF gray, w0od-colored or brown worsted
or cheviot. The lapels of any of these
coats should be we'll peaked and of moder-
ate width, and should be evenly spaced for
five holes. the roll to extend when the fronts
are closed 10 the third button. The sleeves
should have imitation cuffs, closed with
three buttons or be- finished plain, and,
except on hand finished worsteds. the
edges should be single stitched very mar
row. Except for day dress, either single
or a double breasted vest of cashmere
picked out with silk, or of silk, may be worn
with 1t, and the material OF the trousers
may be pronounced stripe or plaid OF
moderate proportions.
CUTAwAYS.