New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-12-06
am the fact of its having been made In

S.o..s,,, ~ interesting his guests In tne ioo.
which they are about TO eat Is the pr'p.s',.,
a.. aroot "Chaumiere' restaurant at M"'oo",
when a customer orders fish for his deJeiune' y,
no" =. q conducted TO a great marble basin and
sorntoir in n beautiful winter garden which w"
-. .ho main hall of the establishment lrou.
SUI ~ other delicately favored members OIL
49,. enrv world swim about in the deep c,e"i
-. % tho pond. A long .bandlcd Six ahoihs
49,. a. o;yen IN the guest and he Is reques.eo ~
so1eo, and catch himself the fish that Temps mo
,.rcv most This, as a rule, adds 10 DIS in,e'e''
and endowment and appreciation OF inc oi"nei
which he is about to eat, ~. p.r,s,.r
A feature in which all the great
restaurants. with the solitary exception VI s"e
Lion d'Or-only second-rate as isr as !" oa. "ts
Is concerued-are deficient rs IN the eies""e. "
table eauipage Neither the glass nor ehe ~,
celain. nor vet the plate nor the lincn' "''
mar with the cookery. And yet '"eio
doubt that an artistic and dainty serFioe ny
materially toward the proper ana peii.0' ~
nreciation of the viands. Ola hiehoeis'
for close upon thirty years, has been liz 0''io'
troll of the Imperial kitchens at VIENNA 10 =
advocate of this theory, and has on Horo V"'" ~
occasion argued in my presence Una.
served on gold dish is more pIeasins a"u "r
pati
china plate. Edouard Sacher, the Deimohico Vi
tho Austrian capital. is manifestly OF the sahie
on,n;on. for all the plates and dishes III ms
.o rostaurants-tbe one close to the Opera anu
IA. other in the Prater-are of the finest Dresaeh'
tho glasses from Baccarat and Bohemia, tne sii'oi
,,oss;ye and antique and the damask fauiIesS'
The nrivate dining rooms are beautifully uPhois
tered in pale blue plush, and groups OF howeis "n.
foliage fiji every corner. The dishes which "oui'
sneciaIlv recommend at Sacher's and also at 'ie
restaurant of the Hotel Continental. the VI"
Golden Lamb where fnanciers are wont W
conareoate is a pate de foie gras. Inc uain'S
as found in these two places Is lnhhi'eV supe'iD
70 any produced at Strasbourg, being maue % Vne
Iivers of geese that have been In SOUND neaiV"
at the time of their demise, instead OF oeihs ,p'e
of 1ivers that have been rendered diseased oS
,rti6ciaI and unnatural methods of fattenlng the
ooso Tho goose whose livers employed AT
Vienna for the making of pates are raised alnlos,
exclusively by the Hebrew population VINO hilu
therein a most profitable industry. may aou
that following o traditional custom that mas peeh
in Use for several centuries the jewish lnhaoi'"h.S
of Austro- Hungary present to the Emperor each
wear on St. Martins Day-the German eqiValehC
70 the American Thanksgiving Day-a COUPE VI
suberb white geese. These, abundantly pefiooo"''
and caclxling with loyal excitement are porfe
70 the palace by five delegates OF the fepiew
communities and RENTED to His Majesty as 'nahA
Offering for the Imperial protection accorueu !"
them. lii ;.L
when T refer TO the geese as cackling with
loval enthusiasm it is because am hr"iS va"
,,;ncod that the birds understand and appreciate
the honor that awaits them Like the Jachas'
thew enov as altogether unmerited reputation for
T1no
trary. although its manners sometimes verge Oh
Tho ndicrous. is a very sensible bird, and displays
a strong taste for practical joking One OF the
r,ost amusing Jokes which / have ever known
geese to play was upon some pigs on farm IN
the south of England. The geese somehow always
remembered the time for going home httle
earlier than the pigs, and when, therefore, the
latter got to the gate. they found the geese all
ready and waiting for them to pass. There the
birds stood in two parallel lines with their necKs
lowered their beas stretched out before them, ana
cackling away with immense glee. The porKers
had to run the gauntlet between the two rows
in order to reach their stye and their supper Ihey
knew what was in store for them, and, one by one
with a preliminary grunt, they dashed down De-
tween the two lines, the geese dabolng ana peck
ing at them as they passed, and unmlstakaply en-
loving the fun Against one porker In particular
"a fat little Berkshire-the birds had seemed 10
have specially playful grudge, and it seldom hap
pened that he got past without one or tne
other of his tormentors grabbing hold of beak-
full of his skin, and giving it smart twist. Inc
soueal that the pig invariably uttered when thus
nipped, appeared to crafty the geese immensely
There was regular chorus of congratulation over
the success of the performance as soon as 1t was
over: and it was impossible to mistake the spirit
with which the geese-but not the plgs-entered
into the joke.
A recommendation which would venture to
give to casual American diners at the great Boule-
ward is to avoid the Omnibus" as far as the
post-prandial coffee is concerned. The "omnlbus"
is the huge cofee-pot which is kept going all the
time, and which is only replenished with fresh
brew every hour or so. A wink-of financial
characterize the obliging garcon is sufficient to
secure a dminutive pot of coffee specially made,
which differs as much from that in the omnibus"
AS old Clos Vougeot does from new California
Burgundy.
Talking about Clos vougeot that queen of all
French wines, the older "crus" thereof are to be
obtained in their greatest perfection at Voisns,
With regard to those Of more recent date, the
very finest are to be found, not at Paris, but at
the railroad restaurant at D jon. This restaurant
enjoys fame of an altogether international charac
ter since all the express trains carrying passengers
from Paris, either to the Riviera, to Italy, or to
the Orient, by the Brindis mail. stop there for
dinner or lunch. The best way is to telegraph
couple of hours ahead 10 the maitre dhotel order
ing the "plats' which one desires and stating
the hour Of arrival of the train. As soon as
ever the latter runs into the station waiter is
the lookout for the traveller who has thus
telegraphed, and ushers him to separate table,
where everything is found cooked to a turn The
difference between meal such as this and the
ordinary, though excellent, table d'hote dinner
provided for the passengers amply repays the small
extra expenditure which the precaution of order
ing ones dinner in advance by telegraph involves
The proprietor and manager Of the celebrated Dion