New-York tribune., 1891-05-17

quality Of macearoni by adding the casein TO tneu
foury substance. La Reyniere, in his famous Al
manac OF the Kitchen says that maccaron Is one OF
the most nutritious entremets II neither butter nor
cheese is spared Then he adds that II needs muse
| be economical he may take Of Swiss cheese and
Parmegiano Parmesan cheese half and half. since
only the keenest gourmets will notice this stratsgem.
When have maccaroni TO accompany a roast OF
beef cheese but moderately, since the meat sup
plies abundantly the lacking albuminoids. prepare
1t In this In the plain way learned In Italy when
was young But first Of all have 10 tell you ho~
to boil the maccaron because a great deal depends
on this. The cook-bools generally tell you 10 boil
for fifteen twenty minutes, but have found that
this leaves ii tough and in taste: is 1T the
length of time 1t is boiled in Italy Have plenty Of
water in deep pot two quarts 10 half pound, add
salt enough 10 have the water taste, let 1t come to
sharp boil; then put in your maccaronL which you
break in pieces as long you like; and see that the
boiling takes place again quickly and continues with
ont interruption until they are done, which will be In
not less than thrcequarters OF an hour, IL the mac
caroni s Of the largepiped kind: II Of the thin kind
called spaghetti they will be done In slightly less
time. have for this good an authority as Dumas
my side. To test them you have 30 try piece OF the
maccaroni between your fingers If It mashes easily
they are done; you can also tell by the tasre DO
not let them boil too long. else they give their best nu
rves 10 the water, getting reduced TO almost worth
them before boiling As they are done drain
them on a sieve and use them at There are
ever so many ways 10 which TO them, each ore
more appetizing than the others. They present, In
fact open field to an inventive genius Proof OF 1t
Is that such creative spirits Dumas, Rossfni and
others bestowed their tender msccaroni, anA
were proud of their successes In that line as OF
their masterpieces in literature and music You arc
waiting however, for my Italian recipe for plain
maccaroni':
After 1t Is boiled and drained put layer Of m1ccsc
roni in deep dish, heated beforehand; sprinkle with
Drowned butter, and then with grated cheese; aod
another layer sprinkle with butter and cheese and
continue until all the maccaroni used up. Do not
the dish and at once. The proportions
are generally two ounces OF cheese and q quarter
pound Of butter for half pound OF maccarom but you
may take less Of butter and cheese II you choose
Simple this recipe is, I have rarely found coos
who could prepare the dish 1t shOud be. There Is
udgment required to get the right proportions OF mac
caroni butter and cheese. II you have not got them
in your hands and eyes, recipe can teach you Al
to accompany veal poultry, which Is less nutritious
than beef IL is best 10 have maccarom with gravy
After the maccaroni is ready for return it to the
pot and add meat gravy, which Is quickest made by
reducing to about cupful by sharp boiling some broth
mode Of slice each Of beef and veal few scraps OF
ham and bouquet Of herbs, onion, one Glove and
a few pepper seeds. Shake the maccaron until IL is
thoroughly moistened with this gravy then serve IN
a hot DISH accompanied by the grated cheese.
II sufficient quantity Of dish Of maccaront is len
over you will do well 10 IL for luncheon the fol-
lowing day in this way Take one-haf can Of tomatoes
and put them to boil with saltspoonfu OF salt,
few black pepper seeds, bouquet of parsley and one
small onion stuck with Glove. Let boil for fifteen
minutes then add heaped teapoonfnl Of butter which
you have mixed with teaspoonful Of flour and formed
into ball allow to boil until this is dissolved which
is sufficient time TO cook the -four. Now pass the
whole through wire sieve and take Of IT what yon
need to moisten well your maccaroni. Heat the
sauce over again, then add the maccaroni. II the
latter is in lump It will fall apart when getung
warm in the Do not let 1t boil, but set 1t
covered up On a hot place until thoroughly heated
through. The tomato which is left VIII keep
for several days, and is very useful also as an ad-
dition to either mutton, chicken, rice or a soup.
intended to devote this single letter TO rice and
maccaronl but see how unjust to my theme was;
have only begun the latter and my time is up for
to-day. Still consider it 50 important subject,
and have such delicious recipes in store for yoU that
I will venture to crowd them into my next.