The morning call., 1891-07-12
SUMMER STYLES
FOR THE MEN.
The Tendency Is Toward the Brown and
Its VirulGnt Tones.
The SirgIe-Breasted Sack Suits the Most
Favored of Makeup in Solid Colors-Latest
Phase of Long-Tailed Froeks.

1t is quite apparent that the designers of
have been up to snuff.
This peculiar and altogether trying
shade-as was predicted herein would be
the ease-has come to be the ultra vogue.
The leading tailors in the show window
groupings of the latest patterns in cloths
now display the latest brown tint as the
piece de resistance.
Not only is the tendency toward brown,
but it takes form in the virulent tones of
that color. There seems to be a dash of the
tabasco of conception dominant = every
shade offered being permeated with an over
weening tinge of robustness.
The patterns, moreover, while usually a
treatment of the same color in different
shades, are wrought out in the boldest
types of big plaids that have been seen
since the wild and weird summer seasons
antedating the inception of the outing
regime.
The fact that the new shades-unbecom-
ing as they are-have been promptly, even
greedily, seized upon by the men that essay
to wear fine clothes wou!d indicate how
glad they were of any opportunity to break
the spell of sobrie.y that had prevailed Tor
SO long period.
RAREsT THINGS DONE BROWN.
II is thus that fashions in mems clothing
have finally reached that paradoXical con-
dition whereof the rareSt things are done
brown.
The single-breasted sack suit-the coat
made with double-breasted lapel effects
the most favored method of makeup in the
solid color, but In tile startling and thor
oughly sp0rtified patterns in wide plads the
donbie-breasted sack is the more aprOpos.
The manufacturing clothiers may wait
lot another season before they VIII generally
pin their faith TO change SO abrupt and so
marked. Some of the leading high-class
houses that cater for the best custom of the
big cities will be live enough TO put out, in
modified to and moderated form, clothing in
the less aggressive shades of brown, but
these goods will be regarded as the especial
novelties of the line with which the ready
made retailer will seek to punctuate his
stock rather than oyerburden it
There does not seem TO be any especial
excitement among the madding crowd over
this new and radical deviation in the en-
semble of the fashion leaders. The popu-
lace, indeed, will always view striking
innovation III mems dress with amusement,
tinged with eommseration at first, only,
In course OF time as the idea becomes TAMIL
lar, to adopt it.
The latest phase of the long-tailed frocks
is that they are made shOrt-waisted. The
effect desired is to have the coat appear
much longer below the than above it.
They are made in rough-faeed black cloth,
without broad binding or other adyentitious
decoration.
POPULARITY OF STYLE.
The popularity of the style and the hold
it has obtained on the public fancy is evil
denced in the general adoption of it by men
of all sizes and conditions of fgure-even
the short and pudgy Municipalities to whom
the wearing of such coat is a sacrifice of
al fN n IN ha
The Sonnet straw hat, wide-brimmed and
low-crowned, that was the exclusive shape
OF last summer, will te the popular hat of
the year among well-dressed men.
The pearl colOred derby and tall hat were
marked for great run this seasop, hut
these expectations may not be realized. The
pearl shade OF hat always compOTted best
with light gray suiting. and there will not
be any great preponderance Of these worn
during the warm interim.
l wonder that some one--now that the
popular craze for black straw has subsidized
does not get out black Sonnet wide
brImmed, low-crown straw hat. Ii would
promptly ind favor among the men OF
swaggerdom.
There is new fabric that is having a very
successful run among the manufacturers OF
womea's cloaks that seems readily adapta-
Bile to the uses OF III Ell, and 1t seems but a
fair retaliation if the sterner sex can Dor
row anything from woman's domain to do
so. considering the mannish tendency of the
girl of outing. The material is called Crave
nette. 1t is a lightweight fabric, suitable
for wearin the summer, late spring OF early
fail. The women use it as garment for
general wear, as travelling buster and a
rain coat, the texture being treated by some
special sh0wer-proof process.
THE COLOR.
The color is black. although it might, /
fancy, be made in grays and other shades,
and is altogether dressy in finish. For men
il could be made up into travelling and
driving coats for summer wear, and could
do duty in a waterproof sense as we'll as
during when it is too warm to don a mackin-
tosh. | should not be at all surprised, so
well does tie Idea commend itself to me, if
some of the big specially clothing manu-
facturers should take up Crsvenette and dis
play cuts of this useful garment in their
next catalogues
The indications are very favorable for a
good sale of light summer waistcoats. The
man that wears the tropical weights in sub
dued summer suiting, while he is debarred
the sash and barely granted the waist belt,
may let his fancy find vent in waistcoats,
OF which there are large variety in the
washable goods. A bright-colore6 waist
coat will also do much to liven up the effect
Of one OF the dull brown SuiLings.
By the way, the brown revival seems
singuiarly unapr0pos at this season of sun
and rain, for 1t Is a color that win fade in
10 the one and run in the other.
The ''waist-strap" is the latest nomen-
clature in mems furnishings. 1t aptly de-
scribes the waist-belt of leather that re-
sembleS-save that it is wider-the regula-
ton trunk-strap, being the same in color
and having the old-fas hioned common sense
Ill W. l.