Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-07-18

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forms epaulets and cascades. The waist is
clasped by girdle.
| Yellow surah shot with peach blossom is
the material of second neglige. 1t is CON-
blinded with pale gray crepon. The crepon
is so draped as to display a complete under
dress of the silk, and its edge is worked
with herring-bon stitch in yellow filoselle
| The full sleeves are made of the surah, and
draped sash holds the full folds at the
waist in position.
The amateur dressmaker has usually a
number of petty worries, and one special to-
her is the cutting of velvet. AS it is used
so much, even on cotton costumes, it is
necessary that she should know just how it
should be done. Dressmakers prefer to cut
velvet with the pile running up, for then it
doesn't flatten down from wear; however,
no matter what way you CUT it, at least have
it all alike.
When you cut any figured or floral de-
sign do not make the mistake of cutting
two pieces at once, as is often done with
plain goods. The figures and stripes
should always match perfectly, and this is
not possible when two sections are cut to-
gether.
About velvet folds. Don't rely on hav-
ing the last ones the right size by laying the
uISI one Oh Uue uldttIldl duu following
outlines. The result will be waste of fabric
and irregular folds. The same care in
measuring mnst be taken with each one, and
it is not wise to rely on the eye for exact
ness, but to mark the line with chalk and
then to cut it.
1t is most desirable to put braid on by
hand; hem it down, because then it will
not curl up at the sides. Do not put it
on very tight, as it draws and looks very
ugly.
Never tear lawns or cambrics; it rolls the
edges. Draw thread and then cut the
widths.
Do not under any circumstances make a
bodice that fits you like tight glove. 1t is
stretch at the seams and ravel and proclaim
that it was made by some one who didn't
understand the art of dressmaking.
Rose Coghlan retains her shapely love-
lines, she claims, by brain work. "There is
nothing" she says, "like an active brain
for reducing flesh. Then, too, 1 never
drink when 1 am eating, for I believe that
drinking with your meals makes you grow
chunky
Mrs Martinot, the inventor, has taken
out 35 patents, and five of these have been
patented in seven countries. Among them
are steam washing machine, a gas stove,
an ice-cream freezer and clothes dryer.
The inventor makes all her own models, and
is very dexterous with tools.
One-half ounce of the spirits of lavender
and lump of salts of ammonia placed in a
wide-mouthed fancy jar or bottle and left
uncovered in room acts as a pleasant de-
odorizer and disinfectant, filling the room
with delicate perfume which will be sooth-
ing to the nerves and senses this warm
weather.
A long sleeve makes the hand look tiny;
an elbow sleeve cuts off the best part of a
woman's arm, shows that which is usually
the worst, and certainly does not decrease
the size of her hand; an extremely short
sleeve, the regular cream puff sleeve that
permits the shoulder to show above it and
the entire arm to be visible, is, for evening,
most desirable style, whether the arm be
plump or a slender one. If the arm is slen-
der the glove can be worn to cover the ell
bow, and then the plump part of the arm
would be visible. But happy is the woman |
who has arms like Mrs. Kendals, white,
firm, and shaped like those that might have
belonged to Venus.