The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1891-08-06
With gayle
A QUEER TAILOR BOOK.
lSCHEDULE BY WHICH TAlLORS MAKE
AND PAY FOR CLOTHES.

struction of Garment of Mems or
women's Wear-Excerpts from Several.
The 'Tailor's Log" is printed only for
private circulation. Its authors are mem
bers of the Amalgamated Society of Tailors.
The great majority of journeymen tailorJ,
1t should be noted, are allowed a certain
number of hours for the making up of
garment, and are paid, in good shops, at
the rate of sevenpence an hour This is the
key TO the system upon which the log is
arranged. According to the time stipU-
lated for the making up of each garment,
so is the workman to be paid.
The work under consideration is gener
ally alluded to as ''The Log" but, as
matter of fact, it consists of several logs,
There is, among others, a coat log, a trou-
sers log, vest log, a machine log, and also
q log for ladies' riding habits and other
tailor made clothing. But it would be I'M
generous to expose the secrets that under
lie the manufacture of these more ex-
quisite garments. To disclose the mys-
teries of the riding habit log would show a
want of chivalry With its revelations of
padding and pinching it might disenchant
us Of that most charming sight-a lovely
woman on horseback in the Row.
Nobody will be angry with US, perhaps,
If we dive into the mysteries of the 'frOck
coat log" except the gentleman who occa-
sionally adveTtises in the matrimonial
papers his possession of mice square Shout
ders." Such shoulders are often made TO
order. When made of haircloth or extra
canvas, the journeyman charges one hour
for them-that is, if they do not exceed
nine inches7and one hour more if they ex-
coed that measurement, or part of it.
For padding or wadding basted on can
vas in shoulder" the log specifies half an
hour extra, with one hour for ''wadding
flash basted through sides" and two hours
for shoulders built with from two to three
piles of wadding, canvas or cloth"
An ordinary coat that does not conceal
Inequalities of the figure can be made up in
thirty-five and one-half hours. Yet any
one putting an a coat of this simple manu-
facture would be surprised to hear the mys-
'terious processes that are involved in the
manufacture of it. Here are some of them,
with the time to each, all duly set down in
The coat log:
Putting in thread marks and fitting UP,
one hour; scanning side body, one-half hour;
waists, three-quarters of an hour; lapels,
Shree-quarters of an hour; scanning side
seams, three-quarters of an hour; making
PidlIS, II OAiC AlOeALf AZ %
press, three-quarters of an hour; plait pocK-
cts, one hour; basting in canvas and button
Stay, one hour"
But there are many other things to be
done with a stylishly made garment of this
kind to suit the fastidious, and the log pro-
Vides for seven distinct "cuts and puffs,"
for twelve special kinds of edges, ten sorts
of seams, five different pockets, eight de-
tails regarding sleeves, twenty-five peculiar
facings, twenty-six sundries and ten bast-
ings, making a total of something like 145
items that may be called into play in the
making up superior frock or dress coat.
well cut morning or shooting coat goes
through at least twenty-five processes,
which take twenty-seven and a half hours,
without mentioning extras, of which there
are five. Then there are charges for edges,
seams, gun patches and basting that are
distinct enough and yet bewildering in
their number.
Lounge jackets do not seem to give quite
so much trouble, and aIlC-Y us breathing
time to count up twenty-five hours as alb
Forbed in the making. with seventeen items
Cor extras, seams and basting.
COAT AND JACKET LOGS"
The inner jacket seems at first sight
mean sort of garment that gives merely the
trouble of a couple of hours to make up,
but we catch sight of an ominous line
which says, "all other extras same as frock
or dress" The Chesterfield or ulster seems
10 absorb time as freely as it does rain.
There are twenty processes to begin with
which take twenty -nine hours, and there IS
a light selection of about fifty-nine extras,
not to speak of 'other extras as per lounge
and frock coats" and blasting as per
morning coat" with six hours more for the
new shape.
Covert coats start off with as many proc
esses as Chesterfields, and there are plenty
IN the hunt coat and the Elton jacket to dis
tract the student of the log. Jeames' gar
ments and capes, the postilhon's jacket,
and also the Jacket of the boy IN buttons,
IRE no less varied than the rest.
The trousers log shows al different proc
rsses and is simply, in the language of
Mr. Richard STiveller. IAN unmitigated
staggerer" The log was framed for gen.
eral adoption throughout the trade
The log deals with brooches, pantaloons
and knickerbocker breeches; with leggings,
CATERS and spats, and there are special
logs devoted to repairs and to leggings.
which are instructive and interesting.
Nothing is missed by our comprehensive
compilers, not even a bishops CATERS. a
''start" of eleven hours is allowed for these
somber adornments, aud one hour for
tongues" Three hours are set down for
the making of anklets with three holes.
"AIl other extras are charged same as leg
Engs,'" for which eleven hours are re-
Quired
"Pantaloons start same as breeches."
SEVERAL KINDS OF LOGS"
There is a special knickerbocker log and
particulars for alteration of knickerbocker
breeches." 1t Is proper tribute of respect
20 masters that servants breeches or pan
falcons start one hour less than gentle
mems"
There is an extra Brooches and Brooches
Alteration Log, and "Knickerbocker Al
iteration Log, and particulars relating TO
"overalls," cotton or flannel drawers"
'long kneecaps, center overalls, or mud
boots" and short kneec3ps."
Eight and a half hours are set down in
the Vest Log" for an ordinary waistcoat,
with choice of sixty-one extras. Gents
double breasted vests, dress vests, cas-
sock vests" and flannel under" would
seem to absorb much time in making, and
there are twenty-nine hours, without eX-
tras, allowed for a livery vest. There are
two machine logs" dealing with work
that is machiued, and divers other items
in this wonderful production, in which
nothing has been overlooked-not even
''shSms."
4 prominent west end master tailor has
pronounced the list 10 which we refer