The Telegraph-courier. [volume] (Kenosha, Wis.) 1888-1946, 1891-07-30

| are IN the Arkansas valley, anu III
more than three hundred miles our
course lies beside that silent stream,
sometimes called-though why we
can scarcely tell-the ''Nile OF
America" On its banks we will
sleep tonight. 1t is merely a break
in the prairie, sandy, treacherous.
frequently changing its bed, its shall
low water the color of ashes. How
quiet it is! Nothing is to be heard
but the sound of the powerful engine
and the wheels as they measure off
rail-lengths along the reaches of the
plains. Next morning, unless we
are very early risers, we shall be in
Colorado, making in single night
while asleep the old journey of forty
days.
Wednesday, July I.
In the cool of the morning we see
distant blue shapes tipped with
white, on the far horizon, that we
cannot take for clouds. Nearer, but
not very near,-for distances are
very deceptive here-are large fiat
topped hills-the Mesar.
Our first stop in Colorado is at
La Junta, breakfast station. North
we can see Pixies Peak, blue and
white-tipped, just on the horizon.
We now take our last look at the Ar
kansas, and turn southwark. We
are now hurried along behind two
engines to the foothills OF the Rock
les. From the right hand car win
dow we can see all the remains of
Bent's fort-once a place famous for
murders and outlawry. Around here
the Apaches, Cheyennes and Conan
ches hunted and fought and the
place was repeatedly drenched in
human blood. 1t is quite difficult
now to think Of it as such place;
A few days of travel do great
deal to familarize a small company,
and this is one of the pleasant
things in going west All soon feel
acquainted, exchange histories and
ideas and enjoy the enjoyable and
suffer the disagreeable in common.
At La Junta begins new civiliza
ton, perhaps the Oldest on the con-
tinent. Dark complexioned faces
and peculiar garb, adobe or mud
brick houses, and the Spanish tongue
are noticeable. We pass through
rougher country now-through rock
and over Canyon-to Trinidad,
which we reach in time for dinner.
A more des olate country than that
just passed through we have not
seen. Our colored porter-once al
itinerant Methodist preacher and
still something of an exhorter-
lights our lamp, though it is noon
day, and we are soon in the darkness
of Ration tunnel. This is through
the very backbone Of the continent
and the highest point on our route.
We are nearly eight thousand feet
above sea level. While we are toll
ing up the steep grade, our two en-
gines coughing frantically, there is
sight worth seeing behind-a piano.
rama of blue mountains and bluer
sky, canyons, valley and pine tree
slopes. For about half mile or
nearly to the middle of the tunnel it
is up grade, the rest Of the way a
descent. Going up we had an en-
CINE to pull and one to push; new
we have one iron monster doing its
utmost to hold US back. The fric-
ton of the breakshoes produces SEN
sible heat and the smell of smould-
ering confagration. We entered the
tunnel in Colorado. we emerge into
daylight in New Mexico. Anthra-
cite coal beds are around US and
smoking coke ovens. The Santa Fe
route route is favored in this respect.
1t has coal beds along its track from
Kansas to California.
The Indian trail whose course we
have followed is here quite prom
inent. We see an aid adobe house
where we are told toll was once col
lected. The old tollman still lives
in it, but his occupation Is gone.
For the rest of our way it is hard to
realize that we are under the shadow
of the stars and stripes. From La
Tunta almost to Los Angeles is a
great waste, and the only wonder is
that the few NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
and Indians-can get the scant ex-
istence they do. Nothing but sage
brush and cacti now-nothing even
as promising as the miserable wild
sunfower of Colorado. 1t is no
Gland of brilliant sunshine, beautiful
mountains, valleys picturesque and
rich, blue distances, wide pasture
lands, pines, bureau" ETC., as we
hear it spoken of. 1t is little else
than sage brush desert and barren
rock and binding alkali dust. Late
in the afternoon we enter a wide
plateau called Las Vegas the
neutrality-suspicious. because there is
Z. i l.