Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-12-05

| went on then at . good pace for some time,
but presently began to slacken speed to strad-
die earthquake cracks in the road. The cracks
became more frequent, and sometimes the road
| was crumbled like ploughed field. As IL grew
dark the coolies procured some paper lanterns
with the wretched Japanese candles, which
were constantly collapsing or going out. Now
| and then We came across damaged houses, and
sometimes an overturned building would pro-
trude across our path. The coolies stopped
from time to time for . few minutes rest and
q cup Of tea, and on each occasion threw Of
every vestige Of clothing in order TO cool OF
while resting. As could learn nothing Of the
situation at Nagoya, and it was uncertain
whether l could get lodging there. 1 con-
Guided TO stop for the night at the village of
Obu, about twelve miles from Nagoya
DoDGISo EARTHQUAKE CRACKS By NIeHr.
We had met with SO many interruptions that
it was now nearly 9 O'Clock at night. and in
order to reach Obu sooner the coolies under
took ''short CUT by . narrow, sinuous road
that ran along the top of d dam or embankmcnt
through the great rice swamps of that neighbor-
hood. But We found that this road was much
more broken by the earthquake than the To-
kaido highway, though not shaded by trees SO
much as the latter. The coolies in deserving
the Tokaido road seemed to be fearful Of fall
ing into some earthquake death trap concealed
by the gloomy shadows there. But our road
across the rice swamps grew worse and worse.
The cracks continued to increase in depth,
width and frequency until the road was all
scanned, bulged and wrinkled with them.
There was nothing to do but walk, and. leaving
the 'ricksha men to pull or carry their vehicles
as best they could, pushed on in the dark
ness-for our lanterns had now gone out for
good-and, guided by the white dust Of the
road, managed to reach Obu without falling
over the smbankmenr or into crack.
JAPANESE INN.
Our stopping place for the night was at
strictly japanese tea house, where 1 was
perhaps the first foreign ledger it had ever
had. The family were al, In bed when we
reached there, but in answer to the summons
OF Naka, the native guide 1 had picked up,
they got up good-naturedly and gave us the
smiling welcome one is always sure of in Japan.
As 1t was japanese home, pure and simple,
however, had to take my shoes off before
stepping upon their sacredly clean mattings.
was ushered into q spacious chamber, fitted
up in Japanese style, with folding partitions,
paper windows and bare walls, with the excep-
ton OF single oblong picture, which bore
what l at first thought was graceful design Of
flowers, but which proved on inspection to be
q cluster Of crabs in the shape of garland,
and with single flower in the corner of the
picture. One meets these odd conceptions in
pictorial art everywhere in Japanese houses.
The little landiady. with two or three pretty
little musumes girls, came fiutterng in bearing
tea tray with dainty little cups, q brazer
with charcoal FIRE to heat water. and little
table just about six inches high. Also with q
little mat for me to sit upon by my little table.
Then the little women brought little teapot
and little tea caddy and put in tiny spoon
full OF tea leaves. pouring in the small quantity
OF hot water the little teapot would hold.
Then when the tea was cooked they placed il
on my little table, with plate of little candy
cakes This seemed rather
SHORT COMMONS FOR HUNGRY TRAVELLER.
but 1t was only prelude for something more
substantial Ny guide, who had been Skin
mishing around for provisions better suited to
the American stomach, presently appeared
with a nicely cooked omelet, some chicken and
finally beefsteaK. The pretty little ma,dens
were lowering around all the time waiting to do
any service needed and bowling their foreheads
to the floor whenever they approached. With
all their marks Of reverence they had their own
fun at tie expense OF the stranger who groaned
somewhat audibiy when trying &c accommodate
his stiffensd imbs to tho Jap fashion Of ai,t,ns
at uX-,nch table to get his supper. When
bedtime came they set out to make my couch
Japanese style, with rug and q wooden pillow;
but Naka came to my rescue and ransacked the
house for rugs and ,overlets, making q pretty
comfortable bed with them. and roling up
one into a serviceable pillow.
In the morning the pretty musumss vert on
hand before was up with the tea things, and
they were In and out later on, while I was
dressing. wholly unconscious apparently that
there was any improperly in their presence.
DRESSING USDEA DIFF1cuLrIEs
Their delighted curiosity and laughing com.
meuts upon the pecuiiari.:es of American un-
derwear and tedious style Of buttoning himself
mp, were rather trying, however, to Q modest
middle-aged Districtof- Columbian. To the
buttonles. Jap who can divest himself OF his
entire clothing in ten seconds and three move
ments our tedious fashion Of dressing NO doubt
seems very odd aud funny.