Morning journal and courier., 1891-05-30

wholly occupied by three low but wide bow windows; the one to the right fur nishing light to MT. Ruskin's study; and the only one in the second story is imme- diately above the study. This lights his spacious chamber. At the other corner of surmounted by lookout win down something after the style of the bar tizan of an ancient tower. The entire front is covered with ivy nearly to the caves; and the massive roadway wall forming the enclosure, which was built by rustic stone-masons under Mir. Ruskin's personal direction, is now as ichened, messy and gray as the fellside rocks out of which it's stones were hewn. As l stood there for time drinking in the beauty of the spot and the quaint simplicity of the | structure face appeared at the window. Then another was seen beside it. The lat | ter was big and rosy. It was the face of | keeper The former was deathly white, | features, hair and beard. It was pressed against the pane as if with the meaning less impulse of a babe. In @ moment more two white claw-ike hands were raised These clutched nervously at the bars of the sash. The whole picture was as if the living shade of Ruskin for an ln- stant implored for release from imprison- ment; despairingly exerted last feeble struggle for liberty; voiceiess but eloquent cried out to God for flight beyond the misty purples of the far mountains to the
 Ultima Thule of eternal rest. could not
 bear to see it longer; and heart-sick from
 the frightful picture and its dolorous sug-
 gestions, made nasty flight from Brant-
 wood; forsaking the pleasant highway end
 plunging bravely towards Windermere
 over the rugged Furness Fells. In three
 hours' time-after stumbling among fir
 chal
 crossing foaming ghylls and circling lonely
 tarns-I suddenly came to the edge of
 circular dell or dingle, at the western de-
 scent into Dalepark, about two miles from
 the southern end of Esthwaite Water.
 A tiny ghyll leaped the edge where stood
 into the dale below, ploughed its way in
 spumy force" through the little hollow,
 and leaped out again in the direction of
 Esthwaite Water; and I saw that the only
 entrance to the strange basin was along
 side the latter waterfall. 1 also saw in the
 little dell, nestled along either side of the
 foaming itforce," the round, brown hood
 ed tents of the largest gipsy camp l had
 ever come upon in England.
 As for upwards of quarter of centu-
 " any gipsy camp in any land or cline where have found it has been my home as long as l wished to tarry, and it was all ready late in the afternoon, was not long in making circuit of the fell-brow, clam bering down the sides of the little glen en- trance-where I saw that & eeldom used way led through protecting larches to the Patterdale highway-and securing hear ty welcome from those of my tawny Rom many friends who were biding beside the | smouldering camp-hres.
 There were but few in camp at this hour | of the day. These were the very old men | who were pothering at all manner of tin kering upon broken donkey carts, donkey l gear that required mending, and pans, | pots and kettles which were being renewed | in true tin-smith style for peasant house l wives roundabout; many young chauvies (gipsy children) that were at all sorts of | rustic children's games; and the gaunt old 1 spae- wives, too old for the labors and arti-
 fees of the road, who still always serve to hold the reins of good government in any
 eipsy camp well in hand, while brsvely
 preparing the evening meals against the | younger wanderers return.
 During the interval had leisure for e1
 animation of the picturesque camp anc
 time for learning much of the ways ane
 annual journeys of this particularly larg
 single community of English glpsies There were sixteen tents. I knew tha meant housing for from e score to two score eipsies They were indiscriminatel. l scattered along the little stream owe whose channel, cut in the solid rock, on could anywhere step or leap. The dingl comprised perhaps eighty acres of land
 The part chosen for the camp was alway
 a patch of sunlight, which gipsies dearl. l | love. Lareh, fir and few fine beech tree were deeply rooted in the grassy mari O 8 either side. And underneath these an 9 along the patches of copsewood an l shrubbery at the circling edges of the dir a gle, as well as here and there along up ii e sunny sides, was grazing in abundance fo t the donkeys which drew the gipsies' cart e have never seen a more picturesque giI d sy camp, possibly excepting one l foun @ in a tiny canon of the Guines calzada, jul g outside of Havana Cuba. From any DO u tion of the camp one had in full view tl
 lower reach of Esthwaite Water, silver n Windermere beyond to the east, with tl B. towns of Bowness and Windermere loon g. ing against the emerald sides of Frantic n behind; and yet the wanderers encam Id ment was wholly invisible to the spyii re constabulary from any of the highway It on foot and pony paths of the lake regio C. Here were representatives of all t r. English gipsy families of note-the Whf e. tons, Stanleys, Reynolds, Smiths, Ere ,h ers and the Falls, Baileys and Boswell is descendants from the Scottish gipsies e, l Yetholm by intermarriages of generatio Id ago. They were all originally potters a 'h packers. Their former permanent hol n, was in Westmoreland and Cumberlar
 In olden times they made all the rude de ware used by the Umbrian peasantry, a Id bv iourneyings into Staffordshire broug IS, back in their carts over the old Liverpo so Manchester and Carlisle coach road mu 'ie of the better ware; even trading in I'M ch tons and "Wedgewoods" at the houses h. the Umbrian gentry and nobility. N
 a they have their winter homes in Liverpo nd Birmingham and Lancaster, and before o- snow-drops and primroses are showl re, their pale lusters beside the English lal 'k- the gipsies are back here in their ne haunts; many of the men dickering a ed trading at the Umbrian fairs, and of eu buying and shipping horses to Manches eI. and Liverpool; some pursuing their IT.! cient calling at tinkering and osier wo his and the women selling willow ware g a trinkets, and reaping rich harvests at al sly keripg fortune- telling) among the Umt
 an danes and the less credulous but m ne generous tourists who throng the lov ou region.
 'lr; had not been in a gipsy camp since lan last years brief wanderings with put Rommany in our own loved land; and 'od was like delicious home coming to
 the genuine gipsy belongings that W ian here. There were the rude forges I i'm; could be slung under the creaking ca
 in There innumerable odds and ends of on- real tinker's craft. There the camp-f my which, low as they may smolder, are I en- CT allowed to wholly go out, because t sh- represent lingering loyal trace of ol 2, Aryan tire-worship. There, crouching cart or tent, or fire, or on launches at sly. glen entrance, as if sentineling the { ows eventide return of absent masters, V
 the brave, loyal, gaunt and voiceless gi was dogs. Here and there the kettle sticl sell not the stage tripods which burlesque ans sy reality, but the strong, sacredly -pri able crooked iron kettle sticks-with their apt zling pots beneath. While here and tn own but always facing each other and the 1ers between, were the real tents of the R ake- many; hoods rather than tents; wo cep- blankets, like our grandmothers' stout had sheets, stretched over oaken bows, of fastened with polished oaken skewers aims so snug and strong that no ordinary st
 be- can wreck this tiny gipsy home. Al lake knew that my bed this night would b, ield- meath one of these, on piles of sweet T ,lled es from the silent tarns above, min had with fragrant fronds of larch and fir.
 fell EDGAR L. WAKRMA d;
 foot ---------- here DHsAAh'
 were
 Wa The devil may now and then m