New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-10-04
WHERE THE OUSE FLOWS.
A PILGRIMAGE TO THE SHRINE OF ELY.
Ely. Cambridgcshire, September 9.


| hind Old lIiahgate fits by as we roll through
| fine network Of little towns that Hills all che
| snace between Hornsey and Tottenham. Inc
| country along our course is one OF exceptional
interest. and bar that Buggins the Builder mas
| marred Il by making the houses alike, IL Woud
he one of peculiar beauty Around Tottenham
| the dwellings are nteHpersed with meadows, ana
there are market-gardens and nurseries OF flowers
rho hriobt rreen of carrot-tops and of the humble
| Init portly cabbage being pleasantly relieved by
| uass9s Of brilliant hollyhock. Broad fields ensue.-
cultivated 70 the utmost and smiling with plenty;
and around some Of the homes are beautiful green
lawns. divided. as is usual here, with hedges oil
hawthorn The country. for the most part Is
| level. and we note the fine effect produced upon
the landscape by single tall trees or by isolated
groups Of them,-especially where the plain slopes
| gently toward cleaning rivulet and bird-haunted
vale Everywhere the aspect is that OF prosperity
,nd bloom. The sun has pierced the clouds, and
| Is family lighting with a golden haze, thls
shadowy summer scene Of lovelness and peace
| In the distance are several small streams, dark,
bright, and still, and near them many white and
| brown cattle. conspicuous In sudden burst OF
an,shine are couched under the trees. little
cansl-boat, gayly painted rcd and green, winds
| slowly through the plain, and over the harvest
frlds the omnipresent rock wings his solemn hight,
| or nerches ON the yellow sheaves. Chingford has
been left to the eastward, where VOC may explore
one of the most picturesque ruined churohes IN
| this country, and where they show you hunting
| lodge that once was owned and used by Queen
| Flizabetb-and Enfield has been left to the west
ward. where the nettes grow rank on the low
| traye OF Charles Lamb, within the shadow OF the
old church-tower that resounded with his funeral
| kpell White Webs has been passed. with It's
| associations Of Father Garnet and the Gunpowder
| Plot and passed also is Powders End, with Its
relics and memories of the baleful Judge Jenreys'
| At Rye House the pilgrim remembers the plan
that was Matched there. to murder King Charles
tbe Second. and thinks of the miserable death Of
ord william Russell. upon the block in Linc1on's
Inn Fields. Bishops Stortford brings thoughts OF
| tho oruel Bishop Bonner. But the beauty OF ma
ture triumphs over the depravity Of man. and
nowhere in this verdant and blooming region
| is there anv HUT of wicked heart or sinister
| action.
| The church at Bishops Stortford crowns fine
| eminence. and near that place an old brick wind
| mill and many black cattle make striking
| picture in the gentle landscape. The pretty VII
lagos of Stanstead and Elsenham glide by, ana
our gaze as they pass, rests dreamily on the tiny
rod cottages with Hchened roofs and on the broad,
| fertile farms that surround them. Between Ard
| lev End and Cambridge there Is long stretch
Of country that contains only farms and villages
the cultivation Of the land being thorough ana
perfect. and the result picture oil content
mcnt and repose. Presently the region grows
more hilly, and under clouds OF steel ana silver
the landscape Is swept by cool, fragrant Wlnd'
brinoina dashcs Of sudden rain. Hedges are
abundant: Many hocks Of sheep are seen In the
pastures. Fine farm-houses appear, and many
| all
windmills rise picturesque upon the heights, and
the eve rests delightedly on long rows OF the
graceful Lombard poplar. White roads are
visible, here and there, winding away into the
| distance. and many kinds OF trees abound; yet
everywhere there Is an ample prospect. 40 Shell
ford comes q burst Of sunshine, and looking 70 the
far horizon we see tall that stand like senti-
ncls around the lovely plain Of classic Cambridge
where soon we are to wander among such stately
haunts of learning as will fire the imagination, ana
| fll the memory forever, with shapes and scenes
and thoughts OF majesty and glory that words are
nowerless to tell But the aspect of Cambridge, as
we glide now along its margin, gives no hint OF
| the magnihcence within its borders Beyond H.
| stll flying northward, we traverse nat coun-
try and see the long roads powered with trees,
| the deep emerald of the verdure, the banks Oh
green covered with white daisies and red clover,
|
flowers and marigods, the rocks at their Gus
tonarv occupation of .ecdlng,-provident vigilant
sagacious. and wonderfully humorous,-the artistic
forms of the hay-ricks, some circular, some cone
| eboned. some SQUARE with bevclled edges and In
| tho long yellow fields the mowers at their work,
sora swinging their scythes and some pausing 10
,ost. THESE and Others Ike Them are the labor
| ora whose slow and patient toll, under guidance
~ n wise and refined taste, has gradually trans
| formed almost oil England into a garden OF
| beauty and delight-for in every PISA oil TINS
country industry is incessant, and hand IN hand
with industry gees thrift.
vast gray tower rising superbly out OF
dense mass Of green and glistening foliage gray
| sbre near at hand. visible amid cluster OF RED
and wrnlyed roofs. and over all flood OF sum
sbine-and this is Ely! had not been an hour
in the town before ! had climbed to the summit
! NJ the western tower of the Cathedral and gazed
ont upon the green and golden plains of Cam
brIdreshirr. Suffolk and Northampton. lit by the
afternoon sun and blazing with light and color
FOR thirty miles around. Far TO the northwest
Won NAV lust discern the black tower OF Peter
| boronrh North and east at q still greater dis.
lance. dim gray shape reveals the amparts OF
Norwich Thirty miles northward rise the spires Of
| Lynn You cannot Se them. but the Wash Oh
the North Sea breaks in music on THAI delicious
coast. and the strong ocean breeze. sweeping over
the moors and fcns cools the whole land and stirs
It's sdnlt foliage till it seems TO sparkle with
| JOYOUS motion. The Ouse winds through the
plain, at some distance south and east.--dark and
Shining in the glow of the autumn afternoon,-
while gliding between hedges In the west and
south, come the little railway trains from Cam
bridge and Saint Ives. Nearer, far below, and
Nesting around the great church arc the cosey
dwellings of the clean and quiet town--one Of the
neatest. most orderly. most characteristic towns in
England. Houses. streets and trees commingle in
the picture. and YOU discern that the streets are
irregular and full Of pleasing curves. The build
| inGs hcinar mnStlu Inade of linht CraN O taMnY