Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-07-26

on, and prevents the chemise from blousing
aw.kwardly over the bands of the skirts.
The ribbon is either cream color or some
shade to match the one short skirt, and har-
monte with all. The same color should be
worn in the neck of the chemise.
The beautiful molding OF bodices to the
figure makes it imperative that the under
garments should fit quite as well as the
waist, and the dainty cover just described
worn over a well-ftting corset makes this
molding possible, and there is little excuse
for crease or wrinkle. Women who dress
well have corsets to match each dress. And
these are specially adapted to each other in
size, shape and material. A corset to be
worn with a seamless cloth dress must be a
very high one, so that it will not show
line along the lower edge of the bust.
Dame Fashion has usually some logical
reason for the changes she DEGREES. What
ever may have been the reason for length
ening of basques, the frightening of skirts
commenced at the same time, because the
effect of long basque and short skirt
was most unbecoming, making woman
look stout short and dumpy, depriying her
of every atom of grace and style which she
might ever have possessed. So, as the
basques grow longer, it became more and
more imperative to make the skirts longer
also, and that is the way they came to
their present fashion Of extreme length.
Jackets and capes form a part of almost
every going-away outfit. Capes are almost
the only shoulder covering for woman
who wishes TO cook nice, and must be made
with Medici collar, bordered with jets
with long sleeves, pulled shoulders and
tight-fitting back. Jackets are used in
notwithstanding or in trips On the water.
When jackets are very long, it is far more
becoming TO have them of the same mater
ial of the dress, because the division be-
tween the skirt and the jacket soon disap-
pears when the latter extends far enough
dowrsthe skirt to be counted in 4 drapery.
When the jackets are rather short, it is per-
haps more becoming TO have them of diff
ferent material from the skirt, merely trim
ming them with cuffs and deep pockets to
match the general material A vest of q
hue to correspond with the skirt or to con-
trast prettily with it, makes up a stylish
and dainty costume and %ives an air of one
of the Louis to the general get-up.
Blazer fronts are quite as popular as
earlier in the season and are worn with
vests of china silk shirred in A bodice
made thus is rounded in the front of the
meek and blouse shaped at the belt. The
china silk front is hooked in under the
blazer which fastens closely it on each side
of the front, making the waist appear all
one garment. The back of the jacket is laid
in close fine pleats.
The Ladies' Homo Journal gives the fol-
lowing advice to stout women:
Persons of this class are inclined to rebel
this season, when in reality Nine. Fashion
was never more their friend, as she allows
such a latitude in styles that some of the
many are sure to please, and what is better,
to fit. Unless tall do not wear the universal
ruffle on the skirt. but trim with 4 fiat bor
der, Drape the skirt slightly in front and
tack the fan back loosely Wear the dip or
demi-train skirt black in the house, but for
the credit of your sex eSchew it on the
street. OF couse you will not, when others
won't but must put in my plea for cleanli-
ness. Cut your sleeves moderately full on
the shoulders and long at the wrists. Wear
collars of Il medium height fitted low on
the bodice. Long, pointed bOdices are be-
coming, also coat basques, having plain
side pieces. A double-breasted front is be-
coming when the darts are very much
tapered in at the waist-line, and the two
rows of buttons put closely together mar
rowing at the waist-line. Have stay or
bodice pieces of lining from the first dart to
hook in place of a belt. They are often
called old-fashioned, but are better than a
belt fora stout figure. Use narrow trim
mingS. small buttons, stripes or plain goods,
dark and medium shades, and lengthwise
garn;tures. Too tight fit makes one ap-
pear larger than a smooth, easy tit.
Also the suggestion of way to overcome
a troublesome defect:
If your skirt and bodice have an unpleas-
ant way of separating at the back, / should
advise Your adopting the French fashion,
which consists III sewing q large-sized hook
on the band, placed so that the eye cores
ponding to it is on the belt of the bodice,
and thus by their union not only will skirt
and bodice remain in place, but they do not
separate or permit the skirt to slide to one
side in way that is so much disliked.
Never make a belt or bodice too tight 1t
simply becomes useless then. Without
being too loose it can be easy fitting, and in
this way it will make easy the first closing.
will draw the waist to a proper position,
and will be-what Il belt should-a comfort
rather than an annoyance.