The weekly intelligencer., 1891-03-28
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Spring Materials-Styles in Making
New Millinery.

Light quality woods show the same con-
spicuous features that have been notice
able IN winter goods. Extremely bold
piaids are frequent, while circular or oval
spots have grown even larger nor does the
breath OF spring hinder u presentation of
feecy or astrakhan weavings, which ap-
pear not only on woolens but on semi
transparent fabrics such rs grenadines.
Bourette tieckings likewise contribute TO
stylish roughness and but that colors
are refined and often indistinct the effects
would be too pronounced even for FASH
ionable endurance. Bright plaids are seen,
but here the surfaces are smooth although
the size of the pattern may be large. From
such extreme, all gradations are noticeable
until small checked suitings in soft tans
and grays are reached and these form very
serviceable dresses becauSe iaconspfcuosls
and less likely to show ss than pIsin !
goods. 8
STYLES IN MhKINa. 4 {
Materials of conspicuous pattern of
course need combinations Of plain fabric,
and importers bring out the two together,
but suitings are tailor made with special
OF cloths among which Bedford cords
showing rep across, are the newest.
These and other cloths or indeed any
variety OF fine, plain wool, are trimmed
with passamenterie or ribbon enriched by
simulated jewels, this last being a special
feature of the season. Sheath skirts are
still made, but some new designs show
small paniers, and others are a little drap-
ed or with fullness in front, both of which
are the beginnings of greater breadth in
outline. Waists are long and especially
stylish if made over the z<s& q. corset,
which will not, like other corsets, stretch
and lose it original form. 1t is extra long
wasted and meets the requirements of
both full and slender figures.
MILLINERY.
Capotes are hardly seen in comparison
with toques, or turbans, while the supply
of hats in fancy shapes is almost limitless.
Winter contours are repeated and in con-
sequence turning up at the back and
projection in front is a rule. Flowers nod
at back or front or coming from the back
lie in profusion, small ones being preferred
in such cases. AS to size indeed there
never was such liberty, since from lilacs,
lilies of the valley, ETC., they increase in
all dimensions until large roses apparently
ready to fall in pieces, reach size of five
inches across. Chrysanthemums are like
wise made mamm 9TH and morning glories
in natural or unnaturally rich colors, lend
a veritable glory.
RIBBONS
of steel, silver or gilt, but chiefly the lat
ter, are very fashionable and from 'tbaby
ribbons" up to two and half inches wide,
are placed in upright loops or rosettes.
The presence of gilt is in truth always
welcome; small fruits and berries are made
of it and elegant capotes are entirely of
gilt in open work. The latter strikes
key note OF the time, since fancy weaves
in straw are so prevalent as almost to ex-
clude plain varieties even where sobriety
is wished for, since very-day hats or bon
nets come entirely in fancy weave or with
open work brims that finish plain crowns,
Nevertheless, some few large, yielding
hats are plain throughout and eholce
among Milan, chip or split straws In such
style, is possible. Lucy CARTER