New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-03-08
CLOTH GOWNS.
AND NOTES on CLOAKS AND RIDING HABITS!


The newest gowns of solid color intended for aer'
noon street dress or for the carriage made OF tho
new Bedford cords and French camel'shar. Ihese
dresses much elaborate than the simple morn
ing walking gowns made from Scotch ana Ehgiis"
cloths. The French camels -air cloths. with figures
stripes In combed OUT WOOL combined with corueo
silks or bengane striped with zigzag or bias lines arc
liked for this purpose The frlse figures in Gamers
hair are not in much favor as "combed-out'
effects the close curl OF the surface is apt to catch
In any roughness slight obstacle that presents
ITSELF Even more popular than the cames hair goods
are the Bedford cords, which have sold rapidly that
II Is quite difficult to get them i'm desirable colors
They are especially sought after in medium brown
shades, In mushroom color, silver grays and other
gray tones, and in the yeowish Cleopatra drabs.
All tones of color in dress considerably lighter
and more pronounced than they have been. AS
rule, elaborate wool dresses will be combined with
silk or bengalIne shade or two darker; though the
new Cleopatra drabs combined By Worth with
black, and to extent black will be used with
other colOrs.
While dressmakers are making skirts little fuller
than last there is great change in the mako
OF the new wool and silk dresses. There are more
OF these gowns made in princess style In one piece
than in any other way For young ladies such dresses
often laced in the back. The new Bedford cords
range in price from 81 % to 81. They forty-fve
inches wide.
English tailors are using many camelshair cloths
figured in a close pattern with many fine zigzag stripes
in pale natural beige and mushroom cOors In plain.
faced cloths for spring there are some very pronounced
shades The browns have distinctly yelowish
Tone and the new amethystlne puppies and dahla
shades conspicuous than the violet cloths OF
last season. Royal bluen Is a shade in cloth,
which is to be made up with bengaline in the same
color and sometimes with garnture OF Oxdized silver
braid This blue is intended like all these pronounced
shades for handsome carriage wear. There are stu
other cloths stamped with flower clusters, that arc
made up into elaborate gowns.
The unwelcome fiat has gone forth that all dresses
shall be on the sidewalk four inches The extremely
long waist which dressmakers now using has ne
cessitated the lengthening of the skirt in order to
bring the figure into proper proportion. Until dress
makers return waist Of reasonable length trail
ing skirts will be likely to prevail Meantime all
women Of short stature will do well to adopt all meant
in fashion for shortening the apparent length OF the
waist the waists shorten the figure perceptlbly
A pretty item that should be remembered is the use
OF little rute of silk at the edge of the foundation
skirt, to break the hard line which the straight, PLAIN
skirts make at the edge.
There be doubt that India silk will be even
more popular than last 1t is preferred in dark
grounds figured with lozcnges. rings, polkadots ana
other scattered conventional effects. Chaes are also
shown in dark cOlOrs in these patterns, and In alr'
lines, and make exceptionally servceable summer
dresses. Tie most popular material for sheer AFTER
noon dress during the summer seems likely 70 be black
grenaine. This is import in every variety OF Weighs
both plain and fgred with fashionable zgzag stripes
and set scattered designs. These grenadines Will not
be in combination much in solid dresses, OF
plain figured striped goods trimmed with black lace
They are expected take the place of the black net
dresses Of last season.
The material most used for the elaborate Louis
Ouinze and Queen Anne now being made for the
dcmi seas IN and SUNNI IS back bengaline figured
in even inch stripes in serpentine or zgzag effects
few coats for driving reception wear Will be made
OF white cloth. The new bengaine coats are trimmed
with wide ics Of black lace and finished with evers
collars which show elaborate tabots and falls OF lace
in front Some Of the pretest Of these coats are cut
off In front and the sides and only long at the
back so that they more becoming than the ex'
rcmey long coats, Of which cut of the height 50
much that they should be by none but exception
ally tall figures.
This is pure French style. The model from which
the Illustration was taken Of white cloth with
vest Of pink brocae and the full cravat bow OF peated
lace which feature of cOurtly dress in the time ~
Louis Quinze, and as late as the Directory 1esasA