St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1891-02-08

lars, VS., bodice pieces shaped to the
basque point from the side seams,
pointed girdles, straps from the
side seams, two on either side meet
ing at the point; bias belts edging the
basque, cabbage rosettes, yokeS OF many
forms, bretelleS, vests and pointed
Swiss waists beneath yoke OF the dress
material; as well as for one front, with
the other one of silk or WOODEN goods
Tapped over it. On the skirt it forms
border cut on the bias, or only cording
at the head of aborder of some other KIND
goods. A front or side panels are IN
style; also long points on either SIDE
reaching nearly to the walSt-llne; a
gathered ruffle or boX-plaited ruche
across the front and sides OF the dress
the center back width, facing on the un-
derskirt, binding on the edge and length
wise; trimmings in the way of bands
pointed on one side. narrow scarf pieces
edged with fringe, etc.
Using Velvet Economically and
We'll.
The iudicious use of velvet enriches
a gown, is universally becoming. and 1t Is
the one material that can be used with
lace, silk, wool. cotton, etc. Ribbon
velvet and groS grain ribbon having a
satin edge are the favorite trimming
ribbons, which are put on skirts In cross
and lengthwise rows, as bride bows,
binding on the edge of the drapery
whether it be slashed. in tabs,
or plain; trim panels hold bit
of drapery here and there In a
rosette. edge the basque ending in ro-
settles back and front, hold the Tapped
BASQUE fronts with rosetteS, trim collars
In one-pointed tabs on each side, form
bretelles, trim the wrists. hold the full
ness of sleeves in tight little bows on
the outside OF the arm, and trim the
front of the basques irregularly, as
three straps OH one side and two
or four on the other, coming diagonally
across the front. The cabbage-rosetteS
spoken of are used on ladies' and
children's dresses and hats. They
must be loose and fluffy to be success.
If made of ribbon, take thirty Inches OF
No. IL or No. 16 ribbon, gather along one
edge and pull it up to form the loose
roSette, catching it lightly here and
there in place. If made Of piece silk or
velvet, cut bias strip two inches and a
half wide when doubled, gather the two
raw edges as one, draw the fullneSS up
and form the rosette as described for
the ribbon, and take strip the width OF
the velvet.
Odd Waists or Jackets.
These convenient garments are grow
ing daily in favor with US, as they long
have been in England, and are worn i'll
the afternoon at home, and to the thea
ter, under the name of tea and theater
Jackets. Black silk, lace and nice wool
Ell skirts are worn with them.
The Jackets are of surah, lace,
crepon, chiffon, China silk and
brocade, with a trimming of lace,
ribbon or passementerie. Turquoise
blue, cream, black, Nile, tan, pink,
mauve, old rose aud cardinal are the
coIors selected. If in possession of a
short or demi-trained black silk skirt, a
young woman can with couple OF
these jackets present quite change OF
toilette at a small expense. The necks
are V-shaped. or high in front, with a
high, rolling or flared collar. The
sleeves are high at the top, the back
is pointed, round or in folds from the
shoulders, and the fronts are loose over
close fitting lining, with feather
stitched plaitS in place Of darts, shlr-
rings. single darts or fancy belt. Pulls
of chiffon prettily ornament the neck,
wrists and top of the sleeves of silk
jackets. The Pompadour brocades are
stylishly finished with loose vest of
crepe the color of the flower prominent
in the brocade. Ribbons and lace may
be put on ad lib.
New Bodice Features.
The round b0diceS are pleasing to
young ladies who are slender enough to
dispense with the taperlng basque
point. One new one has a plain back,
high collar. and fronts in two easy folds
from the shoulders, leaving V space
to be filled in with the sleeve material,
which is also used for a girdle laced in
the back. where it is two inches and q
half wide, and pointed in front, where
it is fully nine inches deep.
with blunt point below the
has side and front seams upon which
crochet buttons are sewed in close
row. The sleeves Lave row of buttons
up the inside seam nearly to the elbow.
The coat back rivals the pointed one,
and many gowns are made with prin-
cess back and basque front. Sleeves of
two or more contrasting materials are
worn. One has puff Of one material
at the top, and has the rest of
the sleeve of second fabric, buttoned
up OH the outside OF the arm to meet aud
lap over this V-shaped puff. Many
bodiceS button on the left shoulder and
under arm seam: but, unless accustomed
to fitting, this is a difficult design to
follow. For a slender figure neat
cashmere and velvet basque has the
left front of velvet, also the collar and
upper part of the sleeves, with the
pointed back and right frOnt-which is
without darts and Tapped over to the left
side-of cashmere. A cabbage-roSette of
velvet ornaments the back point. and
holds the fullnesS of the Tapped front at
the waist line and just above it, the
front taking a round appearance. Point
ed basques may be trimmed with bre-
telles of velvet, ending in rosettes on
the shoulders. Stout figures look well
in the pointed bodices made with closely
set, tapering darts, and good length
over the hips. For plain suits
a round basque cut in square tabs
and bound with inch-wide silk braid,
stitched with "E'' silk, is very chic.
Basques, or hip pieces, are added to
short bodies for young and slender
women as large, fiat pieces shaped SINH
lar to a square pocket and trimmed
with passementerie; or a box-plaited
rnffle of the dress goods. or velvet,
which stands ont in the EliZabethan
style, and gives a quaint appearance
worn with the flaring collars, which, by
the way, must flare enough to leave
the neck free, or they will utterly fail
in the desired effect.
Stylish Skirts.
Frincesse gowns have a separate
drapery to form q square apron and
Greclan plastron, which is draped on
the left shoulder, right hip and trimmed
all round. The edge of skirt fronts and
sides are slashed in slender tabs.
trimmed with gathered ruff1e, a box
plated ruche, flat border, or EN-
broidered in a scroll design. Flat
fronts, and fronts slightly draped over