Daily Yellowstone journal. [volume] (Miles City, Mont.) 1882-1893, 1891-07-14

Oid hecee-Cnarming Gitmp psee OF . He
gios wOndrous In Scenic and Historic
GIOrieA
Copyright 1871. by Edgar L wAkemAn.l
KKLso. Scotland, June 29.-American
travellers fastening between the English
and Scottish capitals miss what I have
often felt Is the most interesting portion Of
the two countries. That Is the Border
country with its ancient border towns, IN
and around which have been fought more
ferocious contests than elsewhere in all
On the English side. In the two great
border shires Of Cumberland and North
umberlAnd. there are but two border cities
Of note Of ancieSt origin, Newcastle and
Carlisle. unless the little early day castle
towns Of peurith and Keswick, the latter
in the English lake district. may be in
cluded. But in the three adjoining Scot
tish shires Of Berwick, Roxburgh and
Dumfries, there are Berwick and Cold
stream, Kelso, Jedburgh. Melrose. Hawtck.
Langholm, Ecclefechan. AMMAN and Dunn,
fries Il would indeed be carrying Goals
to Newcastle 10 attempt discovering much
Of interest In that border city beyond
matters connected with manufactures and
coal
Al Keswick one is preoccupied with the
noble scenery Of Derwent vale, dominated
by huge Skiddaw and By the memories re-
called By the lines Of Soutbey and Cole
ridge, that its ancient character and tradi-
tions fade into insignifcance. Little and
quaint old Penrith is a place no tourist
ever finds, yet IL is Certainly one Of the
oldest hives Of humans In England. Here
are the remains Of a once huge border cas-
tie built by the Sevilles. That IS all the
canny Scots could see when they sailed
over the border, but they knew that at its
base, in a little hollow. stood the grotesque
town. its streets the narrOwest, most wind
ing and may in England, and that its
wise old burghers had much Of value hid
in their tiny strongholds Of houses.
II is at Penrith-sacked scores . times
IN the English aud Scottish wan md for
several brief periods the residence Of that
merry murderer, King Richard IU-that
you will find one Of EnRland's most curl
Gus rude stone monuments. It stands in
the little churchyard, and Is known as the
Giants Grave" There are two huge
stone pillars, one each at the head and
foot. They taper from circumference Of
twelve feet at the base 70 seven at the top.
Folk lore Of the region afirms that they
were erected ages gone by TO perpetuate
the memory Of a Legendary giant called
Owen CRsarius. They are covered with
| Runic carvings. British antiquarians long
| since gave them mp as a dead age secret,
and Sir Walter Scott nearly went mad
puZzling his poor knobby head over them
But / saw the people Of Penrith in q
more vexed puzzle than this the other day
| A portable engine and threshing machine
( Of American pattern were being hauled
down bill through its single thoroughfAre.
which sharply winds to the right and left
| 70 accommodate the entire place It was
too narrow in places TO allow their pas
sage. Presently the two pieces Of ma
chinery were wedged fast between the op-
posite houses. An extraordinary commo-
tion followed, as all the town folk on either
side seemed at once furious 20 pass 70 the
other, and this sinuous street was the only
means without making a circuit Of half
the place. Everything from dynamite TO a
queens warrant and the giant shade of
Owen Cesarius was suggested 10 relieve
the cty. When left it mobs were strug-
Cling on either side Of the barrier. massed
into writhing cone against and upon The
machinery, while a stentorian burgber
waved his arms aud shouted 90 the multi
tude; "Ees cooms o Hamerican fnwen.
tionsi They puts willln' hands In ~
workus an howdAshusly stoaps cop our
streets. Down WI 'em, say Or And
Down wi emp sang they all a. they
struggled 10 ''Oop WI 'em. an awaP' Per
hAps they are at II yet in Penrith town
Ancient Carlisle. portion Of WHOSE cas-
tie wns built over lao yeaD ago. 4 . hne
example OF the oncs almost impregnable
border town It stands ~ the edge Of the
foothills Of the north English mountains.
on ons Of their fArthest outfuttingz. and
l hfn 49,. avA hmwa =
look Of pugnacioasness - the whole faces
the misty Scottish mountains. Betwesn
the city and the border stretches a vast
fertfb plain, once fen. over which Scot
tiah rAiders slowly waded, and this delay
always gave the Carlisle Warriors time %
get into good lighting trim Indeed, the
stronghold was the chief weapon Of Will
lam Rufus TO "bridle and render insecure
the possession Of the Scottish kings In the
two northern COUNTIES" Poor Mary Queen
Of Scots was shut up here for some time
after her landing In England
The east window Of the Carlisle cathe-
dral is probably the largest in Britain,
while within the same area can nowhers
be found 50 great a number Of ancient cas-
ties Of residence and defense. Among these
l visited Rose, Oorby and Naworth cas-
ties, the latter the seat OF the Earl OF
Carlisle, and have not come upon such
tremendous battlemented walls elsewhere
in Europe. Even in Carlisle itself it Is not
uncommon to find ancient houses with
walls from four 20 six feet In thickness,
and splayed windows and bartizan tOwerz
OF feudai times are so quaint and frequent
a. to form one Of the most curious and in
teresting studies among the border towns
Over the Scottish border where the
Tweed, as Il leaves a region Of glorious
tradition, is lost in the tides Of the German
ocean, stands Berwick, looming darkly In
. high antiquity. No man can tell its orr
gin, or trace its early history. Il comes
first autheutically into view In the oarly
part Of the Twelfth century. IL was then
a town Of mark-the capital Of Lothian
and il figured for some time a. a great sea
port, as a place of rich churches, monas
teries and hospitals aud as one of the frsi
four royal burghs Of Scotland The Scan
dinavians made desnents upon it, but Il
was b,liii Tor such visits. and they did ht
I tlc harm