The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-08-23

/
! all about the face in childish fashion, ard
! binding it about with fillet Of ribbon or
| tiny flowers. Girls with dark heavy hair
| brush it back in smooth waves TO catogan
| loop of twi,ted strands pinned closely
| against the head. Only the exceptional
woman dares wear her locks smoothly
] braided or coiled now. saw this exceptional
woman in a ballroom not long ago. Her
| dress was of crepon in soft cloudlike gray
| The draperies fell simply about her with no
| futter or flounces OF ribbons. Her dark
| hair, as smooth and glossy as a ravens
wing. was coiled snugly on her neck and
brushed back lightly from one of the bright
| est faces in tue world, and the contrast
| of the neat couture beside the more frowSy
heads of her companions seemed indeed re-
freshing.
The model dresses for the autumn, says
the New York Recorder, which are begin
ming to find their way over seas, are made
with demi-trains, and this fact has an inter
est in view of the moments cutlery about
| dress reform. The lengthening OF the dip
to the demi-train might be taken TO Indicate
that dress reform is indicated. and to a GER
! tain extent that is just what is needed, bat
| what is shown with even more clearness is
| that any movement in the reform direction
is a waste of energy at the present time.
| People who say things of this sort about
women are usually called ill-natured, or if
they happen to be- women, traitors to their
sex; nevertheless, there is Il certain pro-
! priety in speaking the truth, when the
| penalties are not too heavy.
The truth is that q larger proportion of
women dress sensibly than ever did so be-
fore, and yet that proportion overwhelm-
Ingly larger will sweep the streets with even
| greater thoroughneSs this autumn than they
| have been doing since spring.
| no .rely1v-
| in many particulars, but they are alike in
being long. They are greatly widened at
| the foot, also, and often finished with full
| puff, which more than hints of rotuud
| draperies to come. The all-round reed has
| not made its place good as dress distender,
| but the "dress-improver" has now re-
| appeared in a new form. 1t is now a mar
row fiounced strip of grass cloth, which is
| set under the back of a fan-plaited skirt
and holds it out until such day as the exiled
hoopskirt shall cross the border with au
| army and boldly claim its own.
The autumn dress has shorter waist
than the dress Of the summer. 1t has high
! sleeves, and it is in every way likely that
the dress of the winter will also have them.
| Sometimes it has "frock coat cut almost
| long enough to reach the knees, double
breasted, provided with reverS and rolling
| collar and not by any stretch of the imag-
ination to be considered in any light more
| favorable than is implied by the phrase
English and ugly" When the frock coat
has vest the vest is Of cha mois cloth or
| buckskiu
| sometimes the autumn dress has broad
belt, like those Of the empire dresses of two
| or three seasons ago. For q street dress this
| belt is often of leather.
| Waist hounces are not to leave us for the
| present, and the length of their stay is e
matter of regret, both because there are il
| logical ornaments and because there is not
| one woman in twenty to whom they are
oven moderately becoming
Deep borders in silk cord passementerle
are among the most elaborate of the new
trimmings. Patterns designed for the
| straight bell skirts are often half a yard
wide. Paniers have not given over the fight
| for recognition, and the modistes are doing
| their best to forward the campaign by send
| ing out model costumes cut with redingote
| backs, usually in dark velvet, and with
tailor-fnished cloth fronts, sheath skirts
| and panlers.
| The girl whose hand is beautiful
lays Clara Belle in the Enquirer, is alwayt
adjusting her collar, or. il the hair is pretty
| Too, she pushes an imaginary lock behind
| her ear. She does it with the middle finger
the other fingers being prettily curved. Her
lat rest" poses always bring her hand into
| prominence. She has way of letting il
| droop from her wrist and way of moving
it when she speaks.
The woman with beautiful foot has
| more trouble. unless it be in the summer
and bath-suit time. This woman crosses
| her knees when she sits. She gives q little
pull to her skirt to prove to you that she is
modest about it, and also to call you atten-
ton to the opportunity about to be granted
you. She has fashion OF imagining mice
and jumping on chairs. She will draw her
| skirts close about her trim ankles upon any
excuse. She is fond of sitting on the rail
of the piazza, one toe touching,
and, OF course, the pretty foot on
view through the railing. We all
know how girls fasten flower in the most
prominent button-hole of their bodice, and
but it's shame to give away their little
coquetries.
The lateral style of dress establishment,
already mentioned, is shown in the 1ounces
on the woman's dress. The little girls frock
has the short sleeves, which are new and
popular In Juvenile costumes this summer.
White wells of figured net are worn at all
hours OF the day when driving on Fifth ave-
nue., and are usually accompanied by white
gloves and white Shoes They are sprigged
all over. and have wide vine boarder with
scalloped edge. Some are curved in mask
SA~POS NOooA oIo Sttdl&uO WIN SQUARE cor
ners, and all are worn to fall below the
chin. Black net wells are similarly figured,
aud an odd fashion is that of white sprigs
and a border wrought on black net wells.
There is tendency, says the New York
Tunes, TO widen the arm Of the mosque
taire aud sac gloves SO as TO gain gauntlet
effect The sac glove. with very wide arm,
has hook and eye at the wrist which
shapes the fullness of the hand. The
stralght~wristed gloves are of necessity the
ones most worn with the extremely long
sleeves, as they slip under the sleeve and
make no trouble. In buying a gauntlet
glove, care should be taken 10 have the part
between the base of the thumb and the
gauntlet long. Otherwise, the gauntlet
will dwarf the rest of the glove and cause
the prettiest hand to appear badly proper
toned
Both white and yellow gloves have the
gored gauntlet bound with black. Col
ored binding is noticed also. The glove
manufacturers persist in decorating dark
derby and sac gloves with white and col
ored stitching, which will make the wearer
conspicuous, no matter how unobtrusive
may be the rest OF her costume. Ladies
buy these gloves because they have no
choice, but many would be greatly
pleased if they could obtain the useful
walking glove with self stitching.
A kid glove with round gauntlet that is
only slightly stiffened, but is prettily en-
broidered in pale colors, as heiotrope or
light ecru, sells for So %. A glove recently
brought out has a short gauntlet of en-
hOGCph and e of e sa