The Weiser signal. [volume] (Weiser, Idaho) 1890-1904, 1891-07-16
TIE WORLD OF WOMEN.
INTERESTING MATTERS FOR THE
WOMEN FOLKS.
Hints to Amateur DreSs-M akers--
Making riends and Keeping
Them--A Woman on a.
HOrse--HandiCap of
Wardrobe.
Hints to Amateur Dress-Makers

|
A pretty fashion, when darts are
taken in the waist of thin fabrics
lace, grenadine, crepe, or India silk
is to stud them thickly with jet nail
heads. A single dart is taken on each
side ofth front, and this is the second
dart, the fullness between be
ing held or gathers or laid in
fiat overlapping pleats. A new
way to dispose of the fullness in front
and back of bodices above the waist
line revives the old-fashioned French
gathers made by alternating short
and long stitches, thrusting forward
the edges OF thepleats and laying these
very close together. This is most
effective on wool stuff and thick silks.
French modistes are making dress
skirts closely gored in front and on
the sides, with bias back arranged
IN a new way that gives stylish scant-
| ness at the top and great breadth at
the loot. To get this effect, the back
is composed OF three straight breadths
OF silk sewed together, and hung to the
belt from one corner, instead of from
their top. This makes a straight side
next each gored side breadth, and
leaves the middle of the back perfectly
bias. The point at the foot is cut off,
and the end OF the skirt is gracefully
rounded. 1t is well, in making the
back, to cut off the upper corner about
eight inches across, and gather this
slightly, instead of literally hanging
the back from point. In double
width goods, such as ladies' cloth, n
single breadth forms the. back and
the slanting seams seen in silk are thus
avoided.
Economists who wish to remodel
skirts of Chantilly lace with scolloped
edges should cut off the worn scallops
at the foot, and add agathered hounce
OF lace. A similar founce gathered to
the edge of the bodice will further
ireshen the gown. A skirt of piece lace
can be given the appearance of having
a ilounce at the foot of the front and
sides by slashing it upward from the
lower edge in five places, and inserting
pleated net i'll each slit The slash in
the middle of the front should be only
six inches deep, and those toward the
sides lengthen gradually to twelve
inches. A half-yard of net is pleated
IN the deepest slashes, while that in
the middle is only ten inches wide
The pleats are laid close together at
the top, and fan outward to the foot.
A bow-knot of jet heads each pleat,
and narrow jet gimp, of which the
bows are formed, crosses the skirt as
If heading a hounce.
Another good plant for the economist
is to remodel her black skirts OF sur
an or faille or of lace to wear with a
single pretty coat bodice of black
loulard strewn with blue or pink
blossoms, or figured with some bright
color The skirt with bias back.
slightly long, and bordered with two
or three narrow ruffles, is the best
model. The foulard coat may be
slashed all around below the waist,
the tabs faced with silk the color of
the flowers, and the only trimming a
double ruffle of chiffron placed around
the neck, down the fronts, and
around the wrists. Two sets of chif-
iron ruffles for one dress are useful,
one set of black chiffron to use when
wearing the coat with very plain
skirt, the other set of yellow, rose. or
blue the color of the blossoms in the
foulard, to wear with better skirts of
grenadine or net.