The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-03-08

style for strictly business purposes. 1t will
be Shapely, and the average length will be
2912 inches The roll will be of ample pro-
portions and from to 5l% inches long, meas
uTing from the top of lapel, and the fronts
Will be well rounded from just below the
lower button TO the bottom, the breast pocket
will be finished with welt, and the side or
hip pockets, as well as the ticket pocket,
Will have flaps to 20 IN or out, except for
midsummer wear when all the pockets will
be patched on. The edges will be double
stitched narrow, and the sleeves will have
deep vent closed with one or two buttons
CUTAwAY SACKS.
The three-button cutaway sack will re-
tain its popularity. It will be shapely and
average 1914 inches long. The roll will eX-
tend from to 5l5 inches below the top of
the lapel, and the fronts will cut away from
point just high enough 10 permit the lower
button of che vest to show. The edges will
be double-stitched narrow, and all the
pockets will have flaps to 90 in or out.
The one-buttoner will roll to point from
~ to inches below the top of the lapel.
and will have the fronts well rounded. but
only moderately cut away. In other re-
spects it Will be finished as the straight
front sack.
For midsummer wear the low roll sack
with the breast pocket, patched on and the
side pockets finished with flaps to go in or
out, Will be worn. The fronts should be cut
away trile less than for the one-buttoner,
to the short roll, though there is no inteu-
ton that the coat shall eyer be so buttoued;
but unless it is cut and finished for the short
roll, the long roll, which should extend to
the lower button, will have that fiat, ele-
phant-crushed appearance peculiar to ready
made garments and offensive to good taste.
The edges should ba double-stiched narrow,
and the sleeves should be finished with a
vent closed with one button or left open.
With these suits the vest should be single
hrao cd n. FRI RI ha
inches long and close with five buttons; and
the trousers should average in size from 20
to 20K inches at the knee and from Is to
1871 at the bottom. The side seams should
be in shed with welt, and the bottoms
should have q moderate spring.
For evening dress, between the peaked
lapel and shawl roll dress coat popular
favor is about equally divided. The ma
terialS used are nne w0rStedS, cheyiots,
thibets and broadcloth. For any material a
very handsome and popular edge finish is a
fle silk cord but the edges of broadcloth
coats are sometimes finished plain, while
for other materials the tendency is toward
very narrow stitching. For worstedS, chew
lots and thibetS there is no better edge fin
ish than narrow silk binding put on half
and-half to initiate cord. For the first style
named the lapels are sharply peaked
and quite narrow, and the silk extends
according to taste, to the end of col.
lar or to the butt0nhOleS; and the
edly taperin9 from opposite the front center
of the arm; it is silk covered and trihe
longer than that of the peaked lapel style.
Inc skirts are cut narrower at the bottom
than they were last year, an average width
being One-thrd the width of the top. The
corners are rather more rounded for the
shawl-roll style than for the other. The
sleeves are cut half-and-half, aud shapely,
and are finished either with frll or imita-
ton cuffs closed with three buttons.
A DRESS SACK.
The tuxedo" or dress sack will con-
tinue popular neglige garment to wear
with dress vest and trousers when the dress
coat may be dispensed with for little
while. In the smoking or billiard room 1t is
convenient and appropriate while ball or
party is in progress, while In the summer 1t
may be worn in place of the dress coat dur
ing an outdoor promenade. IL is cut
shapeiy, is of moderate length, rolls to be-
low the bottom OF vest. the roll being light,
decidedly tapering, and silk covered, has
neither buttons nor outside pockets, and
has the edges single-stitched narrow or
bound to Initiate cord The same materials
are used, broadcloth excepted, as for dress
| coats.
Dress vests are of the same material as
| the coat or of white embroidered or en-
| boSSed silk or satin. When made of the
| same goods as the coat, the edges besides
| being bound, corded or stitched, as the case
may be, are Ornamente with tracing braid,
unless tue collar and foIeparts are EN-
| broidered. The average length is 25A
| inches, and the fronts close with three
| buttons spaced two and a quarter inches
apart, and with the crease moderately
curved, and the collar as narrow as for the
| single-breasted will be worn. Occasionally
a new style of vest having the fronts double
| breasted, with q collar as for a single
| breasted. and meeting exactly in the center
| Of the overlapping foreparts, will be made.
The lapels OF the forepart are peaked to