Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1891-01-20

collars of fur or feather. These scoesso
ries look superhuous over loose-fronted or
heavily banded coats.
In q superb PompAdour toilet lust
brought to view are double polyanthuses,
their stalks crossed over beautiful ground
of ''orchid" OF Pompadour color shot with
gold and pink like the early dawn. The
poisson train, not separate, but a part of
the skirt, Is of plain orchid faille. The
train and the forresu or sheath petticcat
are blended by coquille fall of what looks
like white silk iace, but is in reality
stamped India silk chiffon, a lovely new
material, and one that hss the charm of
falling with the softness of snowfakes.
The bodice Is cut with the PompAdour
square and draped with the India textile,
which Is stamped in q very delicate lace
pattern
A French dinner dress in the trousseau
of February bride is made of lustrous
quality of heavy but unstiffened Lyons
satin, with Two bands of gold and silver
coming straight down the front of the
skirt, which is slashed TO the hips at each
side, showing an interlude of mousseline
de soie-an ethereal textile that looks more
like soft spring cloud than the product
of any loom. This drapery is most deli
cately embroidered in gold and silver, and
the white satin CLEANS through ii like
misty moonlight. The bodice is semi-low
both back and front, but rises in a grace
full curve On each shoulder. These curves
are edged with gold and silver like that on
the siirt, and the short, high-puffed
sleeves are banded with the garniture
Champignon, the soft mushroom tint,
grayer than Suede, is used this season for
entire costumes combined with black As
trakhan fur, or black passementerie ar
ranged in very Frenchy ways. Some of
the strictly Partisan dresses are so scant of
skirt as to be almost tight fitting. Others
are princesse shape, with a full narrow
fan train, while still other models are
slightly gored, with panier draperies on
the hips. The bias skirts now so fashion
able are made of plain cloth or cashmere,
with a very deep hem turned up on the
outside and piped, or slip stitched. There
will be fewer bias skirts next season made
of Tartan and striped woods than of plain
camel's hair, English serge, Indian cash
mere and yigogne.
A stylish visiting dress from PingAt's
work rooms is made of cloth of a new
beautiful shade, one of those undesirable
colors that irritate the chronicler by per
verse, uncommon beauty that cannot be
described. II looks as If the dyer had
mixed rich claret wine with plenty of
cream and then plunged the fabric into
this, and rinsed in peach juice. The dress
is plainly made, but the bodice has a
graceful shoulder-founce of rich silk and
guipure lace of the same color, this edging
a very deeply pointed piece of darker vel
vet that extends from neck to waist. The
lace falls below the points front and back
There is foot-fiounce of the same lace at
the edge of the gored skirt, and in the
back are fan-pleated breadths of velvet.
A ''charioteer's" cape goes with the wrap,
made of fawn-colored cloth, with a gold
and-gray passementerie yoke, and lined
with silk of the indescribable color noted
above.
Two very elegant gowns sent TO Wash
ington this week from q Broadway house
are as follows: One, semi-Directoire of
magnolia-white Victoria silk, is brocaded
with chrysanthemums in cluster, the flow
ers in shaded pink and lilac, with silver
foliage. The outer dress opens over a
''caftan" of magnolis-white corded silk,
with an embossed work in pink, silver and
mauve at the hem. The collar, La Medi-
ci, is made of the embossed fabric, with n
row of 'jeweled" passementerie at the
edge, the gems repeating the tints in the
collar The second dress is of a very del
icate shade of Parma-yiolet silk resembling
bengaline, but with a very lustrous sur
face. This silk is figured with tea-rose
buds and leaves. The petticoat is of a
very oA AAAts4AbAAGAAt s1AAAAs
striped with an Empire embroidery of rose
vines. This toilet is en- princesse, and the
bodice portion is enriched with a jeweled
collar, with Renaissance lace softly draped
upon the front and caught here and there
with jeweled pins.
None of even the most elaborate even
ing toilets are quite sleeveless this season,
which is a satisfaction to those who do not
endorse the poetic idea of beauty una
dorned. Often, however, the sleeves are
mere puffs of airy gauze, but they are
sleeves nevertheless, and the gauze is very
generally banded with ribbons or light
pearl passementeries. In a beautiful art
dress novel effect was produced by the
lowest straps on the right shoulder being
part of piece of fabric which was run
through a pearl slide, then drawn across
to the left side of the waist, and from
thence falling so as to form the draped
front of the skirt. This portion was of
palest pink crepe de Chine bordered with
a delicate traeery in silver, while the soft
silk of the dress itself was of tea-rOse
tint In some of the new silk and velvet
dresses this drapery is drawn from the
right shoulder to the left side, below the
waist These lines are rather severe upon
most figures, but in the art gown just de-
scribed the lines begin with the lowest
strap on the shoulder, so that il crosses
naturally with more ease and grace in eff
feet.