The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-10-25

window, with its loudly green plant spots
aud its bird ges and imagine yourself on
the Boulevard des Italiennes.
The specifically foreign tone of these res
taurants naturally invests them with a
( charm to which people who have been
/ abroad, or who have read Hugo or Daudet,
/ are naturally susceptible, and = considerable
part of the prosperity that comes to the
French quarter comes from senti-
| mental patronage. Moreover, they are hav~
! ing their influence on the restaurant life
Of the city. There Is a cafe style to an in
creasingly large number of restaurants in
all parts of the city. or course the French
COOK dominates the culinary art Of the me-
| tropolis This to be taken for granted
since the same may be said OF almost every
great city In the world. But the Partisan
manner now appe RS beyond the kitchen TO
an extent never equaled heretofore. This
is illus rated by the growing popularity of
| the table dihote.
The table d'hote dinner OF the past was
seldom less than 81, but the French
restaurant has brought the price down.
There are French restaurants ike Fou-
cardes on Twenty-ffth street where for
| 80 cents a man can get most surprising
dinner OF six courses-wlth wine Only a
FTenchman, with the maserful faculty for
turning odds and ends to account, could
ever accomplish the feat. And probably it
could not be done except with large trade.
| will give my personal assurance that the
dinner is entil ely eatable. Whether the
vino might be considered drinkable de-
Ponds upon whether the diner can get along
with rim 0rdiBQtre OF an extremely ordi-
nary though wholly genuine kind.
There are many cafes where the table
d'hote without wine costs 40 cents. A
pint bottle of California can be had for
Is cents Bordeaux is put on for IS. When
ragf m thar ara Hrannh QtfaynDf IN
initiate the French way OF doing things
they are, perhaps, an Improvement upon
what they might otherwise have remained,
but they are generally far short of the
genuine article. 1t may not be patriotic 10
say so, but the American restaurant. so far
as 1t is illustrated By such examples as are
exhibited in New York, do not convince ats
patrons that yankee genius can be especially
culinary.
If the cafe illustrates most strikingly the
influences of Paris upon New York there are
many other traits of the modern city that
readily indicate various phases Of Partisan
influence For one thing, the chduteWss
ercentrtque has captured the town. Just
now she Is in particular Eugenia Fougsrre,
aud she is singing at Roster g. Balls;
but prototypes Of the spriRhtly delegate
from the cafe chGutdnts of the Champs
Eysee will be found elsewhere. Mile,
Fougerre, who has a very eccentric head
dress, and who is, indeed, very eccentric
sort of variety show singer, appears once on
the programme each night, taking the place
held 80 long by Carmencita, the Spanish
dancer, but she is always called out five or
six times. The French singer Of the opera
bouife style just now happens to be the sort
OF thing that New Yorkers consent to be
dali GIFTED with. She is certainly a viva
cious and unexpected creature. unintel-
lgible, SO far as the words go. TO 30 per cent.
OF her audience, but comprehensive enough
In her stra gely Partisan gestures.
| Dudes who used to turn up their trousers
when it rained in London are actually
practicing French phases They will go TO
the greet French ball of February, which i
alw avs accused of being very wicked, bnt
which, like a great many novels that now
appear on the news stands, only promise to
be wicked in the title and never quite full
FIJI expectations. In the public ball, as In
SO many other things. the Frenchma is in
fUencing New Yorks habits. Many details
tuggested by French prectice-especially in
she direction of wines and the supper-have
been adopted, though New York always OBJ
serves conser vatisnI in taking up the more
radical foreign ways of being free and easy.
Francomania may not always be nttrsct-
i've, but unbiased observers will perhaps
find in it many traits to like better than he
has liked the antics of the Anglomaniac.
VICToR SIMS.