The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-05-17
FASHIONS OF PARIS.
Some Hints From NJ. Felix, the
Rival of Worth.
NO REVIVAL OF THE cRINoLlNE.
The Ugly Dress-Improver-Ra for
Velvet Gowns -One OF Mime.
Carnot's New Costumes.

| And my OFT repeated answer Is no, nun
dred times, mol 1t is strange how people
refer constantly to the abomination, as il
in the natural order of things it must
some day return to fashion. The dress.
improver, which, indeed, is only miti'
gated form of crinoiine, is-in my opinion
nearly as ugly and quite as incongruous
Taste resides almost entirely in
the harmony and simplicity of line;
beauty, in the human form itself
not In base caricature of natures
handiwork. How is it possible for taste
to manifest itself and beauty to exist, with
such a hideous excresence beneath? Look
at the women of today in dresses that
would, but do not, disguise the graceful
outline of their figures. The present style
of garb (I am sure you will agree with mel
| is infinitely becoming, and am proud to
think that have done great deal to-
wards bringing 1t into vogue. Every inch
! of superabundant drapery is mistake in
my eyes, and ala trimmings which have
not, as it were, their roisoa d'etre ought to
| be tabooed You will think it strange for
me to say SO; but / would rather see q
woman clothed in the plainest gown run
| up by her maid than clad in the compli-
| Gated arrangements in fashion some years
| since.
Throughout the winter we have been
| making great many velvet dresses with
| absolutely plain skirts, sheath-shaped in
front, and with some flowing pleats at the
| back, and cut so as to train a few inches,
though intended for wearing out of doors
| Such skirts may be convenient, but they
are not elegant, and they may just as well
| sweep the ground as touch it; in either
| case ladylike distaste to defile the hem
of the feminine garment will prompt the
wearer to lift it out of harms way. Many
| of our evening robes were made with pan
iers. Now the panier, when kept within
bounds, Is not merely effective in itself,
but follows out and accentuates the natur-
| al form of the hips, and in doing so makes
the waist appear slighter.
do not advocate change for the sake Of
| change, but it is generally understood that
| each season must bring with it some modi-
| fication of fashion. The sheath skirt or
| tourredu and the panier have provided us
with text for series of very becoming
| gowns both simple and dressy. The
| severity of the fourredu is broken by the
| addition of sort of overdress that falls in
| folds over the front of the skirt and in a
| narrow train behind, while it leaves the
| sides uncovered. This overdress has low
| bodice, supplemented by high one with
| long sleeves of the same material as the
| sheath, and the sides of this bodice-con-
| fined at the waist by a beta frill that
falls over the hips, playing the same
| part as the panier. We rins the
| changes ad infnitum. Thus, in one in
| stance, the founeau, high bodice, and
sleeves, will be of yellow, striped horizon
| tally with deep blue rib, and the over
| dress of dark blue Bengaline. Or, the en-
| tire toilette may be composed of pearl
| grey crepon, the sheath skirt and sleeves
ruled with lines of narrow silver braid.
/ Again, the foundation may be silk or
brocade and the upper strata black lace.
In other models, the arrangement of the
skirt is maintained, whereas the bodice
suggests a. figaro vest, the outlines Of
which are penciled in metallic braid.
While for dinner and evening dresses de-
signed for home wear, which, although
! low in the neck, have something of the
tea-gown about them, the same effect is
| produced with delicate-hued China Grape,
which forms SOFT of tunic, draped becom-
ingly from the shoulders and confined at
the waist like Greek robe, so as to fall in
sides plain and statuesque.
Crepons of all kinds are very popular
this season, and the French lawns provide
me with an inexhaustible variety of SIM
| pie patterns and exquisite colors; on the
| one hand pale gray, heliotrope, lilacs and
| dull pinks; on the other dark blues, bright
| yellows and reds of brilliant dye. The
| supply of thin silks is equally varied.
II End vi ka1t
| empire style of gown. Here is a delicate
| Indian silk of an azalea tone, spotted with
black, made up into round, full skirt,
| bordered with bands of black lace inser-
| ton, a ruching of silk, and full baby
bodice. A dress somewhat similar is re-
| produced in new style of silk that has
| the shine of satin, the softness of fable
| and the lightness of foulard. 1t emulates
the hue of the poppy and is studded with
| small white stars. Nine. Recamier NAV
have sported such a frock. Nor are taffetas
omitted from our fashionable list Crisp
white taffetas, checked with black satin.
make up charmingly in the form of a
| round skirt and bodice, almost without
seams, exhibiting the figure to its full per-
| fiction, thanks TO gathered frill falling
/ below the waistband.
| We are eclectic or we are nothing. The
| Louis XIV. coat still finds favor with us:
| but We prefer not to carry the basque all
| the way round, which has the effect of
| cutting the woman in two and detracts
| from her height. So the back pieces OF the
| coat are made in one with the skirt, the
| basques performing the same Office as the
| paniers. An elegant costume in old blue
| fallle embroidered with a floral pattern
copied from an ancient design, is being re-
/ peated in tan-colored with embroideries in
! different shades of the same tone for Nine
| Carnot.
Black silk embroidered with pompadour
bouquets is another favorite. One of our
| more serious models-customers are not
all young and slim and pretty-is made
| partly of such silk and partly of black
satin brocade; the latter composing the
| pointed demi irdiHe. This mantle with its
/ box pleat, standing up like cocks comb
/ on either shoulder, and its plastron of
| velvet sparkling with jet, suits it to perfec-
| ton.
| Jet decorations hold in high favor. and
| am extremely partial to them in the shape
/ OF light tracery upon such delicate tints
as rOse-petal pink, palest Turquoise blue or
| golden maize for evening dress A pink
| silk robe, the upper skirt cut into long,
| tongue-shaped pieces worked with Jet Is
| charming, while the introduction of black
| velvet draperies about the decollitage is
| emlnentiy fitted 10 set off a pair of white
| shoulders. The designer is bound to think
| of these things. and II is this constant de-
| sire TO place the lady whom he dresses in
| the best possible light that lifts him above
| the common herd of dressmakers.
| The fair reader will not be content if I
| 40 not add few words about their outer
| garments. AS smart mantle, let me
| recommend cuirass of shot pigeon breast