New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-10-11
ALONG THE MAINE COAST.
EASTPoRT HARBOR AND CAMPO BELLo.
SUMMER SCENES DOWN EAST AND THE, CON
ING OF THE SEASON OF STORMS.

ING OF THE SEASON OF STORMS.
Eastport Me-, Sept. 26.-when the patriotic Amer
can Is in New-England he may travel to the horln
and east and the latitude is not to be taken into con-
sderaton as indicating direction. for 1t is all "Down
East But when reaches Eastport. the town OF
ash-sardines chiefly; at any rate they are called
sardines-he has gone about far Down East ms
he can hope to travel without stepping over into
paenn territory. OF Easport Is not so danger
ously near the Canadian frontier as to make the
scrupulously careful man nervous lest he should
nm i,t,ngv stand with one foot in Maine and one in
Canada But Il is far enough " Down East to con-
fuse some innocent travellers. On the deck OF
steamer which sailed into Eastpot Harbor TINS sum
mer stood a man who looked intenty at the green
slope OF Campo Dello Island md the hills where East
mort stands. Then he turned and said In tone inc
indignation OF which was heartstrring: TVS
shame that this country does not belong to the Uned
states, II the fshsmelling town Of PASSPORT Is as
unfortunate rs Campo Bello, he fancics the Yankee
fishermen there do not know IT, Another stranger n
New.York man, went into the postofhce at Eastport
shortly after his arrival In the place He came ont with
q patheticaly perplexed look in his eyes
aThis Is n funny country" he said. 81 asked for
n stamp and they gave me an American stamp. Vi
what use is United States stamp here7 The worst
OF II Is I haven't any Canadian money and don't
see how I can get q Canadian stamp But nc had
not studied geography for long Time
IL You like contrasts you should make TWO VSits 10
Eastport In August you will not find more beaCti
full sail than that from the Penobscot Bay to Eastpor
You are surrounded by Islands which are sparkling
gems in a sparkling blue. Pretty bits Of wood on
them look cool and refreshing. At times your course
Is through narrow, placid channel more like smooth
canals In a wooded grassy country OF fields and
pasture than the ocean off the seabOard OF hardy
Name On the shore the cliffs are OF rock, black
stained and sharply broken as ragged lightning They
f,cp, Tho utap and I've Sh
trees hang on the rocks as bold and sturdy and as
homey as the wicked reefs that now and then show
above the water. The island studded sea Is sweet
tempered here, and the brcezes which come ont TO
meet the traveller gentle in their touch OF welcome
Afterward you sail ont where the water is more
open The ocean rolls with stately dignity that has
a little of summer ideness in 1t. II the wind Is not
fresh no speck OF feathery foam the flashing blue
catchos your eye. The waves true in
their belIylng course that the longwinged sea-
birds behind you come down between them
with swift 1anting dart and sail, as 1t seems on the
very blue Of the water with no salt drop touching
their white plumage. The coast becomes more high
and more rugged. The rock walls are darker In tone
and more frowning In aspect. AT intervals you may
sec where winter winds driving the angry have
torn great gaps the black batlcmcnts of tho coast
Other seas less turbulent have washed away the frag
ments and carried there q carpet Of sand which,
smooth and white on an inclined plane, flashes back
light rays To the unobscured sum- In the cast Is
pale shadow which slowly darkens. 1t rises over
the tinted sea Just where the sky down to the
water. Then you where 1t is traced from
end TO end-dark where II Is crowned and bearded
with woods gray and family c0lored in light where
the trees fail. 1t is the Grand Manan. Canadian
lumber comes from there.
Then you run in close to Campo Bello round 1t and
sail in sheet of water wonderfully clear and smooth
over on Campo Bello hotels with broad
Mara n1aa cot.
tsges and the tents Of summer campers. Before yon
Fastport rises on the hills 1t Is town Of white
walled houses up above and implanted. weather
stained factories the wharves down below.
spotless, cleaning church tower. standing high
hill, tapers until ii Is slender an arrow.
All the town to be out on the Bay
The decks OF the pretty schooners show bearded
fishermen sitting around the decks waiting for the
sinking sun 10 hide behind the hills. Saboats crowded
with young people in gaycolored blazers, drifting
slowly ip toward shore. There is no ripple on the
water ard where the shadows Of masts go straight
down In the sea they twist like spiral wires. row.
boat comes nosclessly in to the shore The air
still that laugh far out comes across the water with
out break aud when vessel down the harbor gives
ND her amless drifting and while coming to anchor
runs down the lfeess sails the running clicks are
clear and vibrant as crckets shutting wings. Then
over from Campo Bello comes lively cheering IL
Jersey college men Their cheers have turned to
college songs three hours later, when the rounded
moon drops cleaning veil over the quiet harbor and
the old fishing town.
But when you to Eastport in the fall II IS not
the same place. The suns fire is less fierce. The
air is raw when night comes down. The brcezes
quicken your blood but they sting unklndly. The
camps gone the hotels are deserted: Light gowns
and gay cOlOrs I'm dress are rare. The hiltops are
cherries and the woods dreary. The sparkle OF
the water has boon smothered IN suen blue
the white houses have taken on dun color. The
green on tho slopes Is losing its life, and over the
whole harbor is an atmosphere that is coldly gray
Outside. when your course Is again on the ocean
rs Won sail the south, every Is showing white
teeth. The wind has the feeling OF growing strength
The coast heights are backer and the water rolling I'm
10 the shores gives a quick leap and u sulen roar
when n meets The iron bound rock. The reef buoys
do not sigh as they did early In August. Their notes
are more warning. for the fall Is advancing with
Il sou'easters, which come with a black rush.
RoundInr II OFF," Why did you break off With