The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-05-17
FASHIONS F0LLIES.
COME OF THE THINGS WHICH
TICKLE THE FEMININE FANCY.


Gossip that Indicates the Drift OF Talk
in the World of Fashion.
Three dominant ideas In dress, says the
New York Sun, prevail-the coat, the
nsuier and the princesse or polonaise. But
zach of these ideas is expressed in an infinite
1sriesy Of forms so bewildering and ornate
!, STYLE that it is somewhat difficult to trace
their origin. There are the coats of the
three Louis, of France, the one with waist
coat and reverses, the others deeply slashed,
nieced on with slightly full skirts at the
xaists, and well worn and picturesque they
are whether fashioned in rich old brocade
or simple bingham or cheviot. The chiA
oecuIlarity Of the style is that it is adapted
- and brought out in all kinds of material.
the simplest or the richest. and is
equally satisfactory in each. A coat Of
RE gay brocade is particularly desirable
garment, as it brightens up and enriches
even the plainest skirt to sufficient splendor
for important occasions. Mrs. Morell Mac
kenzie of London was seen recently at a
nicture exhibition in Louis Quinze coat of
black and scarlet brocade and a scarlet bon
net. and with her two daughters each in a
similar coat OF black, brocaded with SPRAYS
of pink flowers and finished with pink
chiffon frills at throat and wrists. These
coats are familiar. features of the prom
enade, and impossible Of achievement by
the novice. But here is garment which
is particularly graceful in the light summer
materials, easy of construction and even
possible when out-of-style gowns are being
freshened by the home dressmaker.
It is in cloth of light summer
quality, but muslin, challie, India silk, or
crepe du chine are exceedingly satisfactory
made UP in this style. The points to re-
member are first, to have the waist shapely
pointed in the front and at the back, the
plaits turned toward the back, that they
may meet in the center, and very much
tapped or friled on the hip. Most impor-
ia of all, be sure that the skirt comes we'll
down over the hip, not stopping short
where the fitness will be spread continually
by the prominence of the hips. Women in
fashion papers never have any protuber-
auce to be looked out for in planning their
gowns, but the anatomy Of the live woman
is very aggressive and demands recognition
and consideration. A skirt, or basque, as
tits called, may be made in this way with
out the plsi5s, making it once and half
times the size of the waist. and pulling it
only slightly over the hips and very much
in the back. The slope of the waists will
given 1t the desirable tilt and swing.
OF paniers, those are most popular just
now which are suggested rather than pro
n0nce. The arrangement of the drapery
with pauier effect. Tho material
is Iadia silk in a pale straw green
shade draped over a petticoat Of pale old
rose on which a tangle of ribbons wanders
in d darker shade and ties up at its sweet
will into empire bows Of green. The waist
has Louis corslet lacing the full folds Of
tee bodice, and sleeves of the brocade,
,,,t~r, - L.. @I-sA .
the demi-tralu. But paniers have appeared,
and will continue to increase III size, though
they are not favorites with lmodiste or
wearer Only an extremely tall
woman, with an ex remedy slender
waist and no hips at all can venture to
adopt them, as they make a short woman
dumpy and stout one ridiculous; but the
slender woman is loath to hide the gracious
curves of her lissome figure beneath such
monstrosities of fashion as the yanier. But
they are here, and evidently mean to tarry,
evel without a welcome. so here
IS their latest arrangement, in
pink crepon, over a petticoa5 Of Marie
Antoinette brocade, where blue bows tie up
huge punches of pink roses on a cream
ground. The paniers disappear in jabots
DOWN either side the train, when is of pink
like the bodice, in exacly the fashion Wat
teau immortalized on canvas. The princesse
usually embracing as one of its peculiar
features very much wrinkled
ELECTION the cross in the front of the bodice.
OAe of the simplest, and, as they say in
painting, pureSt examples of the nude is a
young girls dinner dress in pale yellow en-,
br1idered crepe which has a princesse
foundation cut in flowing lines from the
shoulders down TO the feet. But over this
lining the material is very much fulled
across the bodice, which apparently was
made on the young woman, as it mas no ap-
parent fastening by which she can have en-
tered it or will ever emerge again. The
low neck, broadly but modestly decollete,
after the sweet fashion of our grand
mothers, is faced with moss green velvet
AID the skirt slightly draped with clusters
Of daifodis. This design is very
ing dresses, which this season are sometimes
made of pale tints instead of the traditional
white, id the heavy Cleopatra girdle,
which finishes The gown. may be of gold or
silver, to harmonic with the color of the
costume. The Bryn Mawr students will this
year graduate or be graduated in lavender
SILK null, very much rufled and embro.d-
cred with their Students cap aud gown. A
very pretty shirred prlncesse is made for
young girls gowns of white China, with a
corseet Of ribbon bands bound round the
waist, from which straps form bretelIes to
The shoulder, ending in ribboa bows. This
corselet is worn over a guimpe of null or
dotted net shirred about the neck and with
Iull bishop sleeves.
The princesse is a gracious little gown
which not only charmingly robes slight,
wlIlowy figures, but adapts itself quite as
Eindly to the more generous proportions of
the matron. The dinner gown in the last
Illustration is most dignitied and stately
affair, with its deep Vandyke collar of rare
venetian lace turning back from the low
neck and its festoons of fiounces enriched
with Jet, and its bodice vered with a jet
network. The princesse has more possibili-
Ies than almost any other gown, and may
De negllge fer woman to dream Of her
LLTiumphs in, or a presentation gown for
Victoria's drawing room.
"A ciear-ayed, soft-featured woman, says
lara Belle in a New York letter to the
hepub- &c, with gentle but confident man
ner was buying infants clothes in one of the
large shops on Twenty-third street. She
was being waited on by saucy girl of Is
VINO allowed her eyes to wander about at
tne passers-by while she discoursed YEARLY
concerning the articles she was showing.
l ike these little garments said the
customer, "but the seams appear rough,
ana | am quite sure they will chafe."
y, no, said the lady clerk. "rhose are
perfect garments. They cannot chafe"
'Ah" said the customer; well, L be-
neVe will look at some others if you have
them"
We have none different" responded the