Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-08-15

Michael, where q service 10 held only once
year. on MichnelmAs day. II was q perfectly
plain stone building without and within quite
without ornament of any kind. recalling the
simplicity OF the primitive English churches
still existing, probably built at about the same
early period. Steep as we found the climb of
the tumulus it seemed to be Q favorite walk
OF them were strollng about, accompanied by
their children and the usual family dog.
CARNAc MUSEUM.
Once in the carriage again we drove back TO
town to see the museum. This proved rather .
scanty collection Of rude bead necklaces, arrow
heads and f'ints gathered mainly from neigh
boring excavations by o Scotch gentleman
named Min. now dead. There were some in
teresting reproductions of ancient graves,
showing just how the bodies had lain under the
dolmens, blocked in by smaller stones and one
OF them contained the bones of little child-a
poor relic OF an ancient life. Our attention was
drawn to some arrow heads from North America
which greatly resemblcd those of ancient
Brittany. Some of the stone axes were really
marvellous specimens Of inventive skill in an
age without iron. When the guido would
allow US to go we escaped gladly to the outer
alr-the fresh sea breeze, the crisp grass under
loot, the distant view OF the archangers mount
and the hchened menhirs beyond brought
back to NJ the old heather past far more
clearly than could hundred such collections
OF broken Roman pottery and unshspely
Breton fints.
ON THE BEACH OF THE BAT.
Now Tor the bay" we said, and 90 to the
bay We went. As we neared the long beach We
saw with establishment large shallow pools, or
artificial marshes, where the salt water is
brought In bv bitches and allowed to evapor-
ate. leaving its salt behind. This had been
gathered into conical mounds to dry. II was a
curious sight--a salt works on an absurdly
small scale. Everywhere in France one is
struck by the economy and attention to the
smallest details. OF saving shown by the people
we climbed down the sandy dunes to the
peach and stood looking out across the quiet
bay, almost land-locked, with distant islands
glowing in the afternoon light The fog, after
settling into rain during our drive, had lifted
again and foated away, and the water shone
green and rich blue far out at sea and purple
ana a paler green nearer shore. The little
waves washed the sand at our feet lifting the
brown seaweed which fringed the stones and
rippled over the pretty lemon and rosy shells
which seemed brighter in color than any we
nave at home. We breathed in the salt air and
looked beyond the far-of inlets in the direc-
ton Of America and then back again at the
spire OF Carnac above its little nesting town.
BRETON CHILDREN.
When we were ready to 60 back our driver
had disappeared. His horse and carriage were
waiting patiently under the shadow of a sand
hill, but he was gone. We waited, too, not SO
patiently, and watched group of merry peas
ant girls who were gathered about a little
breakwater, padding about in the still green
water with much laughter and tutter of stream
ing white caps. They made pretty picture as
they pulled little sailboat anchored there
nearer shore and then let it 90 again with
shrieks OF mirth. Their mother, an elderly
woman, very neatly and almost handsomely
dressed, offered to look for our delinquent
goodman.
She went off and we becuiled the time in
wondering over the costume of her youngest
child, girl of about three years. who wore a
large cap, q shawl, the conventional triple
bodice, an apron thickly gathered skirt and
wooden sabots, all as nearly like her mothers.
except In size, as they could be made. The
woman came back soon with tn. Ian following
her-he lad fallen asleep behind furze thicket.
we otered her ~ cents with some hesitation,
for she looked 80 thoroughly respectable, and
she not only accepted it with enthusiasm, but
| as We drove off we saw her showing it to the
children and evidently exulting greatly.
CROWDED DILIGENCE.
Back we drove at a good pace to the village
and dismissed our sleepy charioteer. We took
last glance at the beautiful old church. last,
longing gaze in the direction of the neyer-to-
be-torgotten menhirs and looked again into the
quaint inn kitchen where an humble old man
was dining off cold meat and cider at one of the
long tables. The diligence stood ready to start
and We climbed in at once to secure good seats,
| as we were evidently to have companions on
our drive. First came an old peasant and her
| daughter, the mother in cap and 'kerchief and
| sabots, the girl decked out in q tiowery hat
and gay calico dress, which were not
half SO becoming. She was evidently
returning from visit home and she babe her
mother goodbye with all the usual peasant
stolidity and climbed into the coach with two
| bullying baskets in her hands. Next French
gentleman got in, who was nervousy afraid of a
drauSht and equally anxious to be of. He
idgoted and drummed with his fingers and
| hummed and whistled, and, altogether con-
Quoted himself with the annoying want of self
control sometimes noticeable in the vivacious
Gaul. When the old man from the inn had
climbed up in front all the seats were filled
but one beside the driver, and that
was soon taken by stout individual with
a basket Of cells. With a loud crack of
the whip the diligence rumbled out of the mar
ket place and we were glad to find ourselves SO
little squeezed. We rejOiced too soon. how
ever. At tie edge of the town we stopped
again. ard two tall gendarmes in full uniform
(much more gorgeous than that of our police
mem, and smaller friend in plain clothes pre-
scented themselves as passengers Was there
room inside9 they asked. There was not, but
two of them got in, nevertheless, and we were
very tightly packed, indeed. The third mounted
in front beside the eels.
FINAL GLIMPSE.
We ratified off again between the struggling
hedges and dilapidated stone walls, while one
Of the newcomers, the gendarme's friend,
amused himself by helping q small ragged boy,
who had caught on behind, to climb into the
| carriage with us, in the performance of which
he 1ourished his small bare feet in our faces
and did not increase the roominess of the con-
| veyance. When he was finally dropped out
again he pursued US for a long distance, fol-
lowed by equally ragged companions, ali
screaming with delight at the sallies of the
funny individual inside. When at length they
were out of hearing We looked back
toward the Druids country. St. Michael's
mount rose sharply against the first blush of
sunset, and the spire OF Carnac was still full in
sight. We passed the roadside dolmen, bleak
and lonely amid the furze and heather, and
watched wistfully for a glimpse of the distant
fields where the members stood keeping their
long watch. Suddenly dark scud drifted
across the roseate sky, q white mist shrouded
81. Michael and st. Corelius and the forgotten
heather alike-tho fog came in from the At
lantic, and OF US Carnac shall be seen no more.
MARY VIELE.