The Coconino sun., 1891-05-30
CHILT'S TRADING TOWN.
VALPARAISO SITS ON A DOZEN
 OR MORE HILLS.
A Busy Commercial Town Away South of the Equator--A Town Set on
 Edge--Grandeu of Its Pri.
 vate Buildings, etc.


 the early time should have dubbed this spot "Vale of Paradise" no ,ody liv- ing nowadays can understand, for there is no vale anywhere in the vicinity, and no indication of a paradise, writes Fannie B. Ward, in a letter b tho Philadelphia Record, from Valparaiso, Chilli. Certainly it is the last place on the face of the earth where one would think of locating great city. An cient Rome, they tell us, was built upon seven hills; but Valparaiso strag- gles up a score of them, for the simple reason that there is not room enough on the narrow strip of sand on the rugged heights and the sea.
 The horseshoe curved coast, in it's widest part, admits of eight OF ten streets, but they extend only short distance; in another and long CT place there is space for but two streets be- tween the cliffs and the rolling surf The greater part of the city, however, occupies slightly sloping incline,
 As the population increased, the rocky hills had to be made available, and now the town, which runs along shore some three or four miles, ex- tends back considerable distance More correctly speaking, it extends skyward, one mans house being built above another's, reached by long stair ways winding roads, and lifts pro- pelled by steam.
 Making neighborly calls on foot in this portion of the city is too hard work to become very popular, while coming down again is positively dan gerous when the walks happen to be slippery after a rain. Thus one mans vegetable garden may seem to hang suspended directly over another mans roof; and the latter, by reaching out of his upper windows, might almost help himself to the formers beets and cabbages.
 Viewed from the bay, especially of an evening, Valparaiso presents fine appearance, with long lines of lights, one above another, like ''city turned up on end" Electric lights placed upon the crests of the cliffs throw their rays and intensified shadows up- on the streets and terraces and gardens below, with the effect of moonlight. But by ''the garnish light of day" the rows of houses and huts, of irregular shapes and elevations, clinging to the precipices like SO many birds'-nests, look as if one stiff breeze would blow them off into the bay.
 MT. Vincent likens Valparaiso to a vast amphitheatre, regarding the ridges of the hills and aisles, and is re- minded of Hong Kong by it's sloping position, and of Quebec by its spurs which terminate in bluffs at the waters edge. At any rate. despite its natural advantages, Chilean enterprise assisted by English, French and German capi- tai, have made here a splendid city the finest port in South America--in fact, the only one on the southern con tinents which can show all modern Improvements. It resembles n city of France or Germany, or even of tho United States, more nearly than it does any other in this country. But our Northern Republic has no city with only Valpuraiso's population Q25- 000) which contains so many fine shops and such display of costly and luxurious articles.
 The foreign element is large and wealthy, the natives proud and pros porous, and like the nearby capital, the place is famous for the extrava- gance of its citizens. Many of the pri- vate residences are palaces in their and adornments, and mil lionaires are as common here as ton people at home.
 There are splendid churches; parks and plazas, filled with trees and flow CTS, in the midst of which fountains are set, and beautiful statuary in bronze and marble-most of the latter, l regret to add, having been stolen from poor Peru during the recent war. There is magnificent theatre; picture galleries, public libraries and reading rooms-in short all the adjuncts of modern civilization.
 No more spacious or beautiful har- bor can be found on either side of the than this of Valparaiso, and throughout most of the year it is safe for shipping-eXcept during tte two months when northern gales pre- vail. Then vessels are sometimes driven from their anchorage and com- pelled to cruise about to avoid being dashed to pieces upon the rocks on which the city is built. One day from our hotel window we watched the pro- gress of fierce 'northern that set all i the ships a-rocking till their mast-tips nearly touched the water, and sent | pillows rolling over the esplanade, away up to the doors of | business houses on the Calle Victoria. | Several pedestrians were washed off | into the bowling sea, and hugh | steamer was driven on the rocks, where | she yet remains.
 In times of peace the flags of all na. ions may be seen here, perhaps tho 'arest of any being that of the United | States. Since trade in these parts is controlled by Englishmen, most commercial transactions are cal. ,ulated in pounds sterling, and in bus ness circles the English language prevails.
 English goods are almost exclusive y sold; an English newspaper is pub ished; there IS an English church, an English hospital, English doctors and lentists galore; in fact, Valparaiso is title more than a great English colo ny, with liberal sprinkling of Ger mans and Frenchmen, few Chileans md fewer Americans.
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