Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-08-27
CHAT ON FASHIONS.

CHAT ON FASHIONS.
IF il were possible to believe that all men
who criticise privately or in public the
dress of women were competent, there
would be reason for despair, us no prevail
ing style quite meets the approval OF
these self-appointed critics. This is partly
due to the fact that Il mans
eye has to become accustomed to changes
before he approves heartily, and with
womans love of change, there seems little
prospect that the two will ever quite agree
as to what is artistic in wOman's apparel
ing. Latest of criticisms is that of an
Englshman, who condemns chiffon, so
much affected by women because of
its light softness. as being a limp
rag, which put around the throat
can never be artistic nor pass for
| good dressing when used to ornament
dresses Chiffon and other light, gauzy
materials, together with lace. are now the
| fad craze or whatever one may choose to
term what is fashionable, and women are
not likely to abandon the use of these until
Dame Fashion DEGREES i change.
While men sit in Judgment on what they
deem the inartistic in women's dress,
woman, by the aid of nervous energy is
| throwing off the burden of sand that ages
| of the dominance of muscular force have
piled upon her. embarrassing her new-found
| freedom with Il zeal not always wisely
! directed. Despite the efforts at dress re-
| form and the edicts of high priestesses at
| Chautauqua and others, women are Slow
| to adopt what are termed common
| sense garments. and are even slower
| TO believe that the present style
of dress is inartistic or void of
grace So long as woman believes she is
chic and beautiful in the prevailing styles,
| she will not readily adopt costume in
which the chief recommendations are those
| of expedieucy and hygiene With con-
| tented mind of itself beautitier, she will
| adjust the long WASTED Louis Nv. coat, and
with scant skirt and jaunty toque defy the
criticism of captious critics and strong
minded women.
The narrow skirt that is worn for indoor
| toilets has a sloped seam down the middle
of the train. while the street gown has the
front and two breadth on either side well
sloped to the top Many dresses have a
bodice cut plain in the back with pieated
front and the jacket to be worn with II is
cut with deep basques and pointed pocket
tabs trimmed with ribbon bows There
seems 10 be little diminution in the use of
of ribbon and trimming; il is made up in
cascade effects and also used in long loops
and floating ends. a popular way to use
narrow ribbon. particularly on evening
dresses, is 10 make ii up in small rosettes,
and put them close TO each other around
the edge of the basque and the neck, and
so disposing the fullnesS of the ruffles on
the skirt as to give the effect of holding the
feStoons.
The soft swish of the silk petticcat so
frequently heard tells that the reign of
starched petticoats is at end; the intro
duction of bell-shaped skirts and the i'm
portation of light weight wash silks that
makes so dainty and comfortable a petit
coat has led to their aband onment The
silk petticoat may be of any color, but gray
and black are for service and the more deli
cate cOlors for home and evening toilets.
They are made sheath shape, fitted tc
the form by darts and finished
| at the top with weiting
cord rather than a band. That with the pre-
vailing long waist is Objectionable for the
reason that all bands tend TO shorten the
waist. The bottom is finished by gathered
fiounce with lace set on with slight full
ness. In width the skirt should not exceed
two and quarter yards. Taffeta silk witt
lustrous surface, in changeable colors, anC
also in fine checks, make excellent petit
, coats. They are trimmed with pinked ruff.
ties, three or four on the outside. and wider
balayeuse under the hem. Some of the new
skirts are cut in bell shape with a bias sean
at the back taking away all the fullness a
| the top. But many figures require Sigh
fullness below the waist in the back, ant
| the more popular skirt retains full
straight back breadth, while the front ant
sides are closely gored. The placket open
; ing is omitted on all understands. The toI
is faced smoothly in front and drawing
strings in the facing at the back adjust thu
fullness.
This season has perhaps shown no NOR,
decided change than in the style of dressing
the neck. From the military collar tina
measured from two to three inches il
, height to cut that not only shows the nap
of the neck on the back and tn,
. | ca1ar.bone in front. the change il