New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-06-07
BY Mrs. Bayard Taylor.
Copyright. 1891 BY The Ne,v. York Tribune.

| You have reminded me in good time that have not
| said anything yet about fish. It is no equivalent
10 beef and hardly nourishing the lower grades
| OF meat still 1t makes good enough show as to
nutrtives I'm order to 1t substitute for the
latter. II makes pleasant change in ones diet and
Is entlcing to the appetite, often much more so than
| meat Is. Then IL offers variety Incompatible TO
the latter. The Neapoltans, who eat everything Nv
! ing breathing within the briny deep call IT
frutu di mare fruit Of the Scala fit figure OF
speech, 1t seems TO me, for shelfsh Of any Sort In
thinking about the Astounding food offered by sea and
river-sat and sweet water-and the succulent meals
| to be derived therefrom, might rather wish for
the strict Lenten fare of former times. We owe many
| o frstrate recipe to those days.
Fish Is either boiled broled baked fried. In all
IL is to be treated the principle as meat
When put to boil In cold water fish, like meat, VIII
part with its best substances which Will go to enrich
the water it is cooked in To make soup of 1t, or
hshjelly (which very delIcateI, this would be the
right way but to boil fish which is to be eaten. 1t is
necessary to put It into boiling water To know the
right moment when fish Is done is not such an easy
affair as you might think 1t depends not merely on
the size of the fish, but also its kind, On the
nature of the water 1t has lived in the time passed
since IL killed, and the water IL is being boiled
in. An under done fish is disgusting, while an over
done ooe tasteless and mostly tough After fifteen
minutes from the time fish has been put on the fire
one has to be on the watch. If the fish is small or
| thin it most likely will not stand a seconds longer
cooking. II large it may need half an hour to ne
well done, even more. Experience and certain
fine instinct have to guide you one sigh and pretty
safe one-is to try fin If II gives way easily TO
| slight pull, the fish is done. Fish, like meat which
is to be dished up, has to be kept simmering rather
than boiling after its first immersion in lively boiling
water. When 1t is to be cleaned 1t must not be
kept soaking in cold water. Some saltwater fishes
better for sprinking them with salt inside and out
hafor The
SALT of course, has to be washed off again BE sure
that your fish is always as fresh possible. 1t de-
compOses quickly, and then Is very harmful. Never
buy fish whose eyes arc dulllookng, or the gs OF
which not Of fine red color IL is best, of course
when put on the fire caught and killed
but this luxury is within the reach of but minority
Of people.
To boil fish In wellsalted water with the addition
of cupful Of vinegar is generally the right Medium
In some cases. however the addition Of bouquet Of
herbs, an onion and little spice Is preferable
good recipe for this cradle" Of boiled fish, as Grmod
de la Reyniee calls it, is the following court bouillon
TO boil fish inn" For three pints Of water take oncbalf
pint of cider vinegar, large Carrot, two onions
two cloves, teaspoonul Of pepperseeds, two bay
leaves and enough salt to make 1t strongly taste OF 1t
(about three tabespoonfulsl When it boils put in
your fish,
Keep this in mind and all 1 have said before. and
you will be able TO boil pretty nearly all kinds of
fish without trouble. Fish Is nice enough DOlcd
whole well garnished, and served with potatoes and
good sauce but IL pleasant to vary for the sake of
which l proceed to give you some special recipes A
few Of them will be convenient for breakfast. l take
for granted Of course that You get your fish Of the
fish dealer, well prepared and cleaned.
STRIPED BASS, STUFFED AND BAKED.
Make a stuf1ng of one stale breakfast roll, one
tablespoonful of butter two of the fish Tor If it
has none, of carp or some other sweetwater fish,
two eggs, teaspoonful of minced parsley and salt
spoonful Of salt. Soak the roll In milk and press it
until dry In napkin; melt the butter, and pour it
over the bread. Mix well then add the eggs, stir
until light after which you add the roe chopped before
hand, the parsley, and salt. Try little OF this
stuffng by putting II into boiling water for I'VE
minutes If too soft, add some bread crumbs, If too
stiff little cream FIJI it into the fish, and sew
il up. Now put a tablespoonful of butter into q
dripping pan, slice one onion, carrot celery
root and add to 1t punches Of parsley arrange
TO make bed Of them for the fish to lie on, and
cover the latter up with sheet Of paper buttered ON
both sides. Bake for one hour In slow oven, adding
little water from time to tme and basic the fish
frequently. When done, lift 1t on hot platter care
fully remove the stitches, and garnlsh with parsley
pieces Of lemon and anything else your taste dictates
Serve with it a sauce Hollandaise. To make this
sauce put the yolks OF two eggs into skillet, which
you place In a vessel with boiling water Add cup
full of the liquid left in the fshpan after it has been
strained and the fat taken of. Stir all the while
with wire whisk. Cut tablespoonful Of butter into
little pieces and add them one by one;
salt to taste; put in sprinkle of nut
mug, and the Juice OF half lemon, If
liked stir until thick; do not let 1t curdle,
and Serve soon as done.
In the same WHY you can bake red-snspper carp,
shad and lahe-pke.
Goldfish, you boil without vegetables. The tailpece
is the favonte part 1t is incest served whole, with
oyster sauce For stewed Goldfish, cut small cod
into three or four equaszed pieces, wash them IN salt
water and put them into Kettle with no more water
than Will cling to them Add blade of mace, wine
glassful Of white cooking wne and two tablespoonful
OF butter divided in halves, one Of them having scant
tablespoonful Of -four rubbed into it, Add salt 10
TASTE and little white pepper (powdered) at the very
last Let it cook slowly and wellcovered for fifteen
to twenty minutes and serve the fish and in the
dish.
BOILED SALMON
Take a middle piece, because there is little
waste. Two pounds Will be sufficient for eight |
persons Take heaped tablespoonful of butter |
work one heaped teaspOonful of -four into 1t, and |
place it in the hollow side of the fish. Tie napkin |
around it with Irvine, and boil it covered up with |
cOurtb0uil0n, to which add some wine If you wish TO
indulge in such luxury for according to Grmod, sal |
mon--which he called the prince OF the seals some
what addicted to the of spirits and only for
the best. Your salmon needs about twenty-five mill
utes gentle boiling. Take it out of the napkin, place
it in the middle of platter and garnish with tho |
sprigs OF curled parsley you get, to which
you may add pieces of lemon, little potatobals
lobster-claws, or anything harmonizng In taste and
color. Serve ii with parsley sauce. To make
this take the yoks of two eggs, half tablespoonful Of
-four, two tablespoonful Of minced parsley and one
heaped tablespoonful of butter Melt the butter put
in the rest and stir, with little water, until quite
smooth: then add gradually. stirring all the while,
threequarters OF pint Of the bOillnghot liquor in
which the fish has been cooked Allow to boil up |
Just once and serve in boat.
Another most delicious for salmon is the fol
lowing the recipe of which owe to tho wife of the
landlord at Bad Griesbach, in the Black Forest Ger
many. She called IL Sauce GenOise.7 Chop the |
lower talend Of salmon into several pieces and saue
il In little butter, with the addition of one small