The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1891-10-18
FEATHERS AND FURS
AND OTHER NOVEL FEATURES
OF THE FALL Fashions.

MY DEAR LOUISE: The chief points OF
interest at this season are the large dry
goods houses and the milliner's establish
ments. Preparations for the winter cam
paign engage the attention of maid and ma
tron. The tournure is completely gone-not
vestige of bumptiousness remains on the
fashonably gotten-up woman. In the matter
OF skirts, the train is growing longer. The
umbrella shaped and the bell-shaped skirts
have almost exactly the same look, though, in
reality, one is much wider than the other and
is differently put together. In both, however,
the line of beauty is an oblique one at the
back, broadening out from the waist to the
edge of the train in fan plaits. Louis Court
coats are very fashionable. The waistcoat In
this handsome garment gives opportunity for
rich garniture while the cravat or iabot ex-
hibits real laces to great advantage.
There is going to be race for popularity
between furs and feathers this coming winter,
and so greatly improved are the methods of
preparing feathers for dress purposes that
many of the expensive kinds of feather trim
mtngs are made with wearing qualities quite
equal to high grades of fur. In this climate
really think 1t a more satisfactory outlay to
invest in feathers, as the season for furs is
really very short There are charming neck
ruffs of feathers for autumn wear. 1 say
charming echo.like, for | can never divest
myself of the idea that full, short ruff of
feathers about the neck gives one chicken
esque look-realstically SO, when made of
coque plumes. Peacock feathers are mingled
in some of the ruffs with ostrich tips. The
lovely and expensive feather boas for evening
wear will be used this winter by those who
can afford them. To my taste, the hand
soonest are those made of white ostrich and
marabout plumage. 1t was predicted a year
ago that ruffs, having become universal, would
grow exaggerated and die ''of their own in
tensity." This, SO far, has not happened, but
the ruffs of the coming season are not to flare
quite so much as last winters.
Shades OF green and blue are to be very
fashionable and bright scarlet will play an i'm
portant part in autumnAnd winter costumes
In blue, all tints from the old-fashioned sky
blue to the clear deep Mazarin blue of past
day, will be greatly in vogue The Swiss belt of
last autumn seems to have developed into the
stomacher, which is one Of the latest and
most chic accessions to pretty girls "get
up" The vogue of jeweled passementerie is
passed. 1t is replaced by jet and spangles,
the latter OF divers shapes. The tea-gowny,
long wraps are giving place to the Henri III.
mantles, that lend picturesque effect to a
very simple street costume. The dress Of the
close of the century is reproduction of the
most artistic modes Of different periods of
former centuries, from the time of Cleopatra
down to the age of the Bonapartes. The wide
license permitted to costume ones self be-
comingly, and at the same time fashionably,
is boon to the woman forced to practice
economy. There are so many who have to
do for themselves-that is, to resolve loose
materials into acceptable garments-that the
less severe style of dressmaking now in vogue
is real blessing. A successfully contructed
ta1lor-made gown requires the hand and eye
OF an expert; the woman who has to dress
on nothing year, Is daring greal deal In
attempting to build one. The draped waists
and the round waists now as fashionable as
the tailor-made may be safely undertaken by
the girl of small means with taste for dress
making, which, l believe, is heaven-born
talent.
1t seems If we are going to hear something
more of the James &. Blaine, jr., and Marie
Nevins' ill-starred marriage. The latter has
Joined the army of divorces living at Sioux
Falls, s. d., and James G., jr., wishes to Sc
cure possession of the little son, who, from al
l have ever heard, is most attractive and
promising child 1t will be a war TO the
knife, for Mrs James g., jr., has faithfully full
hlled her duties toward the child, and in spite
OF the influence of the Secretary of State she
has maintained the interest and friendship of
helpful friends. The Blaine mansion on
Lafayette Square has been ''swept and gar
nished" for the advent of the master, but the
cometh not
Another interesting would-be divorcee re-
siding at Sioux Falls is the Baroness de
SIeurs, OF Inc hague. She Is daughter OF
the late Mr.. John B. Carey, of New Y ork, and
granddaughter of the late William B. Astor
Her marriage to Baron de Steurs took place
in New York in 1875. 1t was celebrated In
st. Stephens Church, Rev. DR.. McGIynn Off
ciating. 'The little rift within the luten that
made dscord in the Baron and Baroness
welded life was caused, as usual, by the
wifes disinclination to hand over all the cold
cash to her lord and master.
There is SO much talk about that Cleveland
baby and SO much interest manifested In It
that really think Its photographs ought soon
to be put on sale. There is bonanza in
store 1or the man who secures the privilege to
sell the first pictures of Mrs. Cleveland with
her daughter. And by all rights it ought to
be Washington photographer
There have been many marriages during
the first weeks of October, but the spectacu-
lar ones have not yet begun. When they do,
you shall have full description from your
friend, ALICE.