Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1891-10-14
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
COL0RS, MATERIALS, WAYS OF MAKING OUT
DOOR GARMENTS, MILLINERY.


DOOR GARMENTS, MILLINERY.
From our Female Fashion Reporterl
As time goes on, it is evident that the
extraordinary favor showa the various
shades of tan or gray will be continued.
though green is set down as leading color,
With good proportion of blue, reseds, the
dahlia shades and yellowish brown.
Smooth surfaced cloth is in great demand
among stylish purchasers and combined
with silk, hengaline or velvet, will rival
Bedford cord in similar combinations. for
handsome street dresses, although the at
fractions afforded hy rough woolens Or
mixed cheviots, find their full quota of at
tention. Most of the rough woods are 10
striped or plaided designs; some of the lat
ter being very large and inequalities of sur
face being brought about by Astrakhan or
bourette weavings which also form stripes
thst are sometimes quite wide. But colors
are subdued in such cases, since bright
plaids show smooth finish. Diagonal
stripes are however the leading feature in
patterns and repeated in every possible
way, from suok as quite traverse the
breadth, to others meeting in a point IN
the centre or in lesser successive points.
The popularity of Bedford cords and Ben
galine as we'll, has moreover brought reps
prominently forward and goods on this or
der, are reckoned especially stylish.
PRINCEssE COSTUMES
noticeable at Lord and Taylor's lead, and
every week, some modification appears, so
that much variety ensues. Fronts are cut
POINTED, round or coat shaped and corselets
also come in effectively where plain and
figured materials are combined, the plain
goods forming guimpe with full sleeves.
Princesse costumes fastened diagonally in
the back are beautiful models of simplicity
as the fabric is carried the figure in q
graceful sweep, without the stiffness re-
snlting from an unnaturally long waist. |
Other princesse dresses cross diagonally in
front; yet other styles show full fronts |
though fitted in the back, while princesse |
redingotes with vest and opening over pet
ticoat fronts to match, are established as a |
leading style, the more SO as particular Op- i
portunity is afforded for the employment of |
those peculiar contrasts in color, which |
are so much in vogue. Doubtless for this !
reason, sleeves differing from the corsage |
are continued and the same may be said of |
vests. Coat bodices however are extreme |
ly popular and these likewise are so varied |
by long tails, coat backs and corselet |
fronts, riding habit outlines or short French |
shapes, as to lose q monotonous sameness |
Short basques have not had their day but |
are not 80 often seen as round waists which |
in both thick and thin fabrics are in ex-
trems favor. Vests are in every possible |
variety, full or tight fitting, among the
latter, those of kid apparently moulded to
the form having special style.
ELABORATE ADoRNMENT
on corsages with plain skirts, has indeed by
no means passed away and fancy runs not
among yokes, plastrons, guimpes, corselets,
vests or transferable additions in chiffon or
light quality silk. While skirts hang plain.
ly and close to the form, there are consid-
erable differences nevertheless in detail and
new ideas as to shape. The French model |
all in one with bias seam down the back,
has obtained much favor and stylish skirt |
shows the back breadth set ih diagonally to |
form point at the top with bias folds PEN |
dant below. Fin de Steele skirts are made |
crosswise of the goods and without seam |
except in the back. The slashing of skirts |
to show another material below, is likewise |
in vogue and SO is the placing of a shorter |
one over longer one in Marguerite style, |
yet without the characteristic side draping. |
Straight skirts of five breadths gathered in |
front and very full at the back are in direct |
opposition to the close bell or sheath skirts |
that are still made.
STREET JACKETS
are very long, coming often to the knees
and the single, long cape that was the sue
cess of the summer, has attained an equal |
length. Beaver cloth with velvet finish is |
used for juokets and some capes but dressier |
ones are of plush, velours, velvet or brocade.
Yokes are sometimes masses of passemen- |
terie or jet or both: embroidery Is also fre- |
quent and occasionally extends down the |
fronts, while elegant capes are embroide red
in all over designs of feathers or medallions
in jet. Collars on both jackets and capes
are faring or there are fluffy circlets of
cocks plumes or the new fluffy Mopgolian |
fur. Coats come to within less than foot |
of the bottom edge of the dress and are sim |
gle breasted, close fitting and show fulluess |
below the waist by sloping seams rather |
than plaits. Charles 1Xth coats of cloth |
arc fitted with plush cape attached, but are
expensive because of ultra style. The |
cheapest jacket is a double breasted REFER |
of cloth with velvet collar.
DREssY HATS
are often SO extremely small as to be little |
more than the foundation for an upright |
aigrette, loops or tips at the back and |
toques or round bats have become almost |
equally diminished in size. Contrary ex-
tremes are reached by wide brimmed varie- |
ties and bonnets are we'll nigh the only |
shapes in which moderation appears.
RosALIND MAY.