The Roanoke times. [volume] (Roanoke, Va.) 1890-1895, 1891-01-20
FEATHERS FOR FINERY.
They Are In Creator Demand Than
Ever Before.
Tho Various Uses to Which They AFRO Put
and tho Process by Which They
Arc Prepared for tho
Market.


Der of years the demand was so small
that the raising OF the ostrich decreased
TO the extent of forty per cent, and
feather workers had to turn their
attention to other channels of industry.
But now the demand for skilled labor
far exceeds the supply. During tho
spring and summer manufacturers were
seriously embarrassed by the lack of
competent help.
glance at women's toilets just
now, says the New York Sun, is suf-
flcient to explain the unusual demand.
Hats are piled with feathers. One
shown in Il Broadway jobbing house
supported forty-two tips. Bonncts are
edged with bands and trimmed with
clusters OF various size; boas and COLA
1cttes of every length, thickness and col
Orare shown in all the millinery, dress
making, and dry-goods houses, and re-
cent importations of costumes disclose
the fact that not only are cloalls wraps
and jackets trimmed with feathers, but
gowns also. Carriage cloaks have hugo
yol1cs, collars and cuffs of eathcrs, sup
plcmentcd with wide bands of the same
bordering the front and lower edge.
Frequently they are faced inside, some
distance from the front edge, with os-
trich feathers, the fronts being rolled
back from n tight-fitting vest. In
cluded in the decoration of jackets and
gowns is the wide Nlcdici collar, COW
cred with feathers. Even in ball dresses
the delicate IL brics are fcstooncd around
the feet and fastened to other parts of
the skirt with punches of tips; long
plumes arc coilcd about the upper part
of the arm to take the place of sleeve,
while others garnish the corsage.
Perhaps more than onc-half of the
feathers used III America are imported
In the natural state and prepared here.
South Africa is the principal breeding
place of the ostrich Ostrich farTas have
been started in Australia and San Diego
County, Cal, but the supply of feathers
from these sources sent to the New
York market is scarcely prcccptiblc.
The great distributing market is Lon
don. where auction sales are held every
other month, and are attended by buy
ers from all parts of the world. Feathers
sell from fifteen to one hundred
and fifty dollars n pound the highest
price representing blood primcs"-
feathers taken from the wings and tail
of the male bird when four or five years
old. The plumage of the female bird
is considered less choice than that of
the male. AT the present time values
In all grades are fifty per cent in OK
cess of those prevailing for several
years.
The past season was SO prosperous
that many manufacturers in this city
employed between four and five hun
drcd hands most of the time since last
April. A feather mandatory is goI {,
very inviting place, with great vets,
sloppy floors, intense heat, and steam,
but the work is interesting through the
heroic measures necessary to evolve
from the feather in its natural state tho
dainty thing of beauty. In the natural
state most of the feathers are of n dirty
gray color, shading to black, and are of
all lengths-from three to perhaps
twelve or more inches. The quill is
thick, and the flew (the curly part)
straight and lustreless. The darker
shades are sorted for black feathers.
and the lighter for those of colored
tints, tied in punches of about a couple
OF dozen, and strung few inches apart
In sections about one and one-half yards
in length. To remove the natural oil
the feathers are soaked for several
hours in strong solution of soda and
soap, and then scrubbed and thoroughly
rinsed. Those for light colors are
bleachcd with chemicals before being
dyed, but those for black are only sub
jected to triple dip in jet dye. Shaded
feathers are made by inclosng parts in
1.I1l ,hn CHI lv = 4
been acquired, and dipping them in a
contrasting dye and combing while wet.
They are dried out of doors and in the
sun if possible, and in a room where the
thermometer registers $50 degrees.
After the starching and another driving.
each string of feathers is beaten against
wooden tables, or Partitions to remove
supcriluous starch. So violent is this
process that one expects to see the
pluIaes fall apart in Il hundred or more
pieces. The only effect, however, of
the rough usage is to make them look
clearer and tiullicr than ever. At this
point the work, which thus far has been
done by men, is; turned over to women,
who, in another Part of the factory, be-
gin TIC more delicate operations.
Feathers Of all hi.es, III different stages
OF Development, arc scattered over long
tables. The punches are separated, and
TIC gull OF each feather is scraped
thin Ay & bit Of glass. Aftcrward they
are acwcd together to form the various
designs steamed over boilers having
numerous spouts, and curlcd with an
implement like the blade of an ordinary
jGc.iknifc. Although apparently sim
pie tho task requires considerable skill
to avoid breaking the flew. Long
pluincs, boas and collarcttcs are only