Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1891-11-26
The Art and Industry of Scent Max
ing is as Old as History
Itself.
Tradition States That the Hebrews
Imp rted knowledge of the
Art to the Egyptians.
The Fine Primary OdOrs Combined
with Each Other Form In.
Vulnerable Varie ties.


A sacrifice in perfume in the form Of in,
cense was necessary part of many ancient
religions. Incense was used by the He-
Drews, later bv the Druids of England, and
now ia in all Roman Catholic churches.
The Greeks and their imitators. the
Romans, all had their favorite scents, and
sionately the prophet was devoted to the
delicate oriental perfumes.
The voIuntaries of old wished to be lux
urlous, out it has been left for the modern
GauI of 1891 to produce perfumes, scents
and odors, beside which those of the an
clients would seem fat and crude.
The eally days Of the empire witnessed
the beginning of the present immense in
dustry of perfume mas ing.
What the French knew about perfume
making is not at all the result of their own
experience. The Evolutionary history of
the art is that the Hebrews impaired the
little they knew to their captors, the
Egyptians, who in turn gave their formu-
las to the Greeks and Romans.
The Moors then t"ok hand at improv-
ing these crude efforts. and when they
invaded Europe left their art in Spain,
whence it soon reached France. There it
found its home and resting place and to
day no nation can compete with France in
the science and art of perfume making.
The names Of the French perfumes are
known in every civilized place. China,
Australia, South Africa ana Norway are
not so far from Paris that French perfumes
cannot reach them.
New York, however, is not far behind
Paris. While all the raw material comes
from France, the refining and combining
of nearly all the perfumes intended fer
the American mark ct is done here. About
1000 persons are engaged in the industry
In this city.
The crude stuff comes in the shape o!
grease extractor pomade, and Is melted
down here with alcohol, which is of
American production.
The lard comes from hogs which are fed
in tie acorn groves of Italy. The product
IF the swiIl and grain fed western hogs of
the United Safes would be too gross The
pomade is made by Il process called en-
deurage, which originated in the 18th
century.
This process refers to the requirement
of the fieeting odors OF flowers while fresh.
The flowers are raised mostly in France,
though quantities of roses come from
Bulgaria. They are cultivated in large
farms composing LuIdreds of acres.
When the blooming season begins the
bios SONS are gathered by women and chill.
dren and placed in wooden frames with
glass bottoms, which are covered with
finely clarified grease.
The odor gwen out by the flowers is
taken up the grease, which is melted and
4 4,
the form in which it reaches New York,
ard here the perfume making proper
begins.
The FIVE principal scents, which, almost
correspond to the three primary colors In
painting and the eight notes in music. a. e
violet, rose, tube-rose, jasmine and orange
flower.
Besides flowers, several other articles
are called into use by the perfumer. Musk
is the most i'm portanr. II comes out of
the musk deer of the mountains of India,
China and Tnibet 1t is extremely diff
cult to obtain unadulterated, and when
obtained in that condition costs twice its
weight in gold.
So great is the tenuity OF the odor, that
in an area of i've feet a grain gives out
81 1899, sos particles without undergoing
an appreciate diminution Of weight.
Ambergrs comes from the spermaceti
whale, and is generally found floating in
the waters where these leviathans disport
themselves. An ounce of this precious
product costs S25, considerably more than
the same weight in silver.
Neroli IS an essential oil derived from
bitter orange blossoms. The vanilla bean
comes from Mexico and Central America;
oil Of lavender from England and France.
Patchouly from China. 1t is largely used
to perfume shaWls.
Sandalwood is from tree indigenous to
India. America is not behind the Old
World in producing some scents used by
perfumers. The best peppermint Oil in
the world comes from Wayne county, N.
Y. Long Island is noted for its tube
roses.
Florida and California contribute great
quantities of orange blossoms. The opopo-
max blossoms, used for certain cOmblna-
tions, comes from the Southern States.
In this city there are about dcz en- per-
fume manufac' cries, besides scores OF
others who make imitation extracts and
odors, which are retailed in cheap village
stores and by travelling peddlers.
TEese are the principal perfumes, but
combined with each other and minor
scents form varieties innumerable.
jasmine and orange fo yer make sweet
pea; Jasmine aud tuberose properly
blended form hyaclnth; violet and tube
rose produce the odor Of lily of the valley.
The old stand by. Jockey Club, is com DIN
alton of many odors. It's sale exceeds that
of any other scent. Every perfume man
ufacturer has his own favorite receipt for
Jockey Cub.
The varieties of perfumery on the
market are countless. Many Of them are
failures, and after a few months
trial are discontinued. Others AXE the
popular fancy for awhile, but then
fade out Of public esteem. few others
come and stay, growing every year in pop
uIarity.
Each house has its own chemical expert,
who attends to the compounding of Its
various brands. The formulas are well
guarded, and generally but one or two
trusted employees have access to them.
When not in use they are kept In the
firm s strong box, for the formula is the
secret Of success.
After the perfume is made something
must be put in to render the odor lasting,
and yet not be distinguishable itself. This
is also kept secret.
Ten to fifteen years ago most of the per-
fumery used in the United States Came
from abroad; to day. with a greatly in
creased use. the great bulk is made on this
side OF the water One house has gone so
far as to export its goods, and they can
be found On sale in several European
cities.
Experts in the manufacture of perfumery
say that the sense of smell can be devel
OPP d just as acutely as the senses of sight.
bearing. taste and touch. Tnls would