Morning journal and courier., 1891-05-28

or even sewing. The piece that falls from the waist as basque is bordered only by the selvedge, and seems to be draped, not stitched upon the bodice The bigh pleated fri]l around the neck is held up by small gold bows. There is seamless vest of fine cloth of gold.
 Rare and delicate Oriental effects prevail among many of the expensive materials designed for elegant dress toilets the com ing season. Superb Cleopatra passemen- teries, jeweled embroideries, and open work borderings in East India color mel anges are all employed in the creation of dancing and reception toilets, costly tea gowns, evening wraps, Louis coats of tinted brocade, and lovely and artistic bridesmaids dresses, disphanous tissues of exquisite quality and coloring being e1- tensively used
 "Nettie L."-Make your visiting dress of the best quality of repped silk, the col or dove-gray, with sleeves, collar and vest of softest, palest chamois-colored faced cloth, studded with cut-steel nail-heads Slash the coat and trim with narrow steel passementerie. Let the front open over the creamy vest in broad revers covered with wider steel passementerie, and finish the medium high Medici collar with the passementerie. For the wedding gown, as you have ''much color and clear com plexion." order lustrous ivory-white sat in or colored silk, and trim with a rich lace caught up with bow-knots of satin ribbon or clusters of orange blossoms. Many of the corsages for brides dresses take on the very fashionable Louis coat form. If the coat back is not liked, have that portion in graceful princesse shape.
 Correspondents who ask hints for bod ices to wear with lace and net skirts worn year ago, are advised to use brocaded silk coats that extend well over the hips. The fronts may have revers. or they may meet at the throat, then slope away to the sides disclosing a full front of chiffon, which has cravat bow at the top and pointed belt below. These coats can also be made of satin, with dots, stripes or arabesque designs, opening over fronts of pinkish mauye. yellow crepe de Chine, or surah dotted with jet nail-heads.
 White is again favorite choice for ele- gant summer dresses for watering place wear. Cloth, flannel, embroidered yelling and soft white muslins will be worn throughout the day; and for evening are toilets most rare and beautiful, of crepa- line, China silk, mousseline de soie, chif- ion and corded silk exquisitely embroi- dered in fade-colors. Lovely white lace gowns are made up over soft colors, a very favorite fancy being white Venetian lace over deep Spanish yellow faille shot with white, or over pale canary-yellow satin. Honiton lace is used to trim white erin kled crepe draped over yellow satin duch- esse.
 Very pretty and becoming riding habits are set forth this year, giving a much greater variety of styles and colors than have heretofore been considered stylish. The strictly English habit, severe and ele- gant in fashion, and very closely fitted, is still highly popular with certain class, but the French habit has also its many ad- mirers. This costume shows more atten- tion to decoration. There is glint of gold or silver galloon, and the natty jacket opens over French Guard waistcoat of gray, russet or maize-color, fastened with small jewel buttons. A Tyrolese hat of fine French felt, the shade of the habit, replaces the stiff wooden model so long popular, and pale gray or russet Suede gloves, matching the vest in color, end pulled over the close coat-sleeyes of the jacket, complete the costume. All riders, both English and American, still wear the dress far too short for a graceful appear ance. The little, narrow, Tapping skirt spells the effect of even the most skilled and practiced horsewoman.
 Costumes of fancy woolens with very light grounds, cream, ecru, dove-gray | mastic, etc, interwoven with rough hne' or fgurings. the undefned mixtures O | color and white, in checks, stripes anC | blurred, detached patterns, are made uI in most fanciful styles. Some have bod
 ices cut on the cross and shaped to the fig
 ure without darts, some with corselets, tn, | high under-b bodice covered with cream | colored guipure lace, some with passemen | terie jacket fronts, the long square basques | reaching further back than the side seamt | of the bodice, and losing themselves
 among the folds of the skirt behind; some
 also with sleeveless overiackets to match
 the color of the bright design, and some | with full plastrons of surah in rose, vel | low, maize or violet. When the bodice i:
 trimmed with lace, there is often a broad
 band of the same on the bottom of tn, front breadth of the skirt, the lace uset
 being in all bases good imitation of olC | mellow Venetian point.