The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-06-28
TO TEMPT APPETITE.
Mrs. John Sherwood on the
Proper Serving of Dinner.
THE PLACING OF THE GUESTS.
Saint Acknowledgements OF the
TabIe-The Wines-A Sample
Bill of Fare.
tcorYRreHr, 1891, BY N. E. W. SHERWOOD


Some old French wit spoke of an ''idea
which could be canonized." Perhaps yet
we may have ''St. Tablecloth" There
have been worse saints than St. Table
cloth and clean linen since the days of
Louis XIII
We notice in the old pictures of feast
ing that the tablecloth was itself picture,
lace in squares, blocks and stripes, some
times lace only over a color, but generally
mixed with linen.
1t was the highest ambition of the Dutch
housewife to have double damask of
snowy whiteness, and very much of it, in
her table linen chest. That is still the
grand reliable table linen. No one can
go astray who uses it.
: But table linen is now embroidered in
colored cottons, or it is eliminated of half
of its threads and then sewed over into
lace work 1t is then thrown over a color,
generally bright red.
There Is no end now to the luxury of
table linen. Ladies order twenty-four doz-
en- napkins from Dresden, where the drawn
work is done to perfection.
Not a particle of coarse food must go on
that tablecloth. Everything must be
brought to each guest from that broad,
magnificent buffet; all must be served la
Russo from behind a grand impenetrable
screen which should fence off every din
ing-room from the buffers pantry and the
kitchen.
And now, the tablecloth being laid, let
us watch the butler and the myrmidons
set the table.
He is portly man presumably, the but
Ter, with clean shaven face. He has the
key of the wine cellar and of the silver
chest, two heavy responsibilities, for n ow-
a-days (not to go into the question of the
wines) the silver chest is getting weighty
silver and silver-gilt dishes having been
banished for five years, are now reassert-
ing their pre-eminent fitness for the dinner
table. The plates may be of solid silver,
so are the high candIesticks and the salt
cellars of various and beautiful designs
after Benvenuto Cellini.
The old silver is reappearing, being bur-
nished up, and happy the hostess who has
a real Queen Anne teapot. The soup tureen
of silver has reappeared, and so have the
old beer mugs.
The butler contracts his brow into q
magisterial frown, sees that each footman
has a napkin over his arm, and proceeds
to unlock the plate chest and the glass
closet. Measuring with his hand from the
edge of the table to the end of his middle
finger, he places the first glass. This
measurement is continued along the table
and secures uniform line for the water
goblet, and the claret, wine, hook and
champagne glasses, which are grouped
about it. He then causes plate to be put
at each place. large enough to contain the
majolica plate for oysters, which will come
later on. One footman is detailed to fold
the napkins, which should be large, thick.
fine and serviceable for this stage of the
dinner.
The napkins are not folded in any hotel
device. but simply in pyramid that will
stand, holding roll or piece of bread. The
knives, forks and spoons, each of which is
wiped by the footman with a clean towel,
that no dampness of his own hand may
mar their sparkling cleanness, are then
distributed. Two knives, three forks and
a soup spoon, all of silver, should be laid
at each plate. Before each place is placed
little salt cellar of pretty device. A
carafe holding water should be put on
very late fresh from the ice chest.
Very thin glasses are used for the choice
sherry and Madeira, and are not put on
until the ritter part of the dinner. as they
may be broken.
Menu holders, or card holders of china
or silver, are often placed before each
plate to hold the card on which TIE name
of the guest is printed and the bill of fare
from which he is to choose. These NAV
be dispensed with, however, and the menu
and name laid by each plate.
The butler now turns his attention to
his sideboards and tables He laws out
large forks and small forks, large knives
and small tablespoons, tea and coffee
spoons, dessert spoons and forks, fish knife
and fork, rows of claret, sherry and Ma
deria glasses, and an immense reserve of
plates.
On another table or sdeboard should he
placed the tinger-bowls and glass dessert
plates, the coffee cups and saucers. On
the table nearest the door should be the
carving knives and the first dinner mates
to be used. Here the butler or head foot
man does the carving, after showing the
dish TO his mistress. He divides the fish
and carves the filiet, the haunch of yeni-
son or the turkey or the saddle of mutton
later on the delicious canvas-back. 1t is
from this table that all should be served.
and if the buffers pantry is large enough
it should stand in there.
With the fish the footman offers chablis.
or some kind of white wine: with the soup
sherry; with the tillet champagne each
guest being asked if he prefers dry or
sweet champagne.
As the plates are removed they should
not be kept in the dining-room but sent to
the kitchen Immediately, maid standing
outside to receive them, so that no disor-
der of the dinner may reach the senses of
the guests, not even an unpleasant odor.
As each plate Is removed fresh plate must
be put in its place.
Sparkling wines, hooks and champapnes
are not decanted, but are kept in ice pals
and opened as required. On the sideboard
is kept the wine decanted for use. which is
poured out as needed. After the game.
with which Chambertin is offered. the
port, Madeira and sherry may be placed on
the table.
No tablespoons should be laid on the
table except the soup spoons, although
there may be handsome gold and silver
spoons of old Dutch, Russian or Norye-
gian laid about for ornament.
To wait on large dinner party the at
PENDANTS average one TO every three peo-
pie, and when only a butler and one or
two footmen are kept, II Is necessary 70
hire additional servants.
Previous TO the announcement of the
dinner the footman places on the serving
table the soup tureen and the soup plates.
As soon as the oysters are eaten and the
plates removed, the butler begins with the
soup, and sends il around by two iootmen,
one on each side, each carrying two plates.
Each footman should approach the guests
on the lett, so that the right hand may be
used for taking the plate.
4 ladelful of soup is enoug serve.
An experienced sery ant ma' serve the
wine. The overhlling IF q should be
avoided.
The servants who pass c entrees