Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-05-02
From The Stars Travelling Commissioner

From The Stars Travelling Commissioner.
VALPARAISO, CHILL, 1891.
II RELIEVE IT WAS IN THE YEAR 1886
Il that Don Juan Saareda-a Spaniard, famous
for nothing else-captured this locality from
the aborigines. He laid it out in three separate
towns and named them respectively "El
Puerto" (the port, "El Almendral' and ''St
John Of God, !" but had them ebristened in the
lump, SO TO speak. under the general title of
valparaiso, yale of Paradise That portion
snciently called FL Puerto is the only level part
of the city and comprises all the business quar-
ter, which until recently consisted of only one
long. struggling street close to the beach.
The cuestas, or hills dedicated to st. John
of God. which now comprise most of the resi-
denee portion. vary in height from 1000 to
1.4oO feet Nothing can be more exhilarating
than an early morning or sunset canter over
those breezy heights. along the new road that
has been cut out of solid rock. away up on the
steep precipiees that face the bay. One day
we went on foot to the top of the tallest cuesta
where in time of peace a signal staff gives no.
tice Of the approach of shipping. Up and up
We climbed by winding pathway-part
wooden stairs. part stone pavement-at 8 sharp
incline and slippery as glass; turning now to
the right, now to the left, according to the zig
gag trail, clinging to the iron railing that
OF some mans garden, while brisk breeze
turned our sun shades wrong side out and
threatened TO serve our garments in the same
manner.
TIRED OF CLIMBING.
At length we were compelled to sit down on
the stairs, ostensibly because so charmed with
the scene below, but in reality from lack of
breath to carry Us another step. Just then a
handsome Chilena tripped past, trailing black
velvet gown weighted with pounds of jet beads,
yet looking unwearied and fresh Ia q rosebud
in June. But she lives up here and is used to
il, and that makes all the difference in the
world. you know, boy with a lOO-foot ladder
might climb from the Puerto straight MP
into her back yard in three minutes time.
while to reach the front door she must wind
around the hills mile more. Almost any
resident of this part of town could easily sur
prise his nearest neighbor by slipping off his
own porch and landing on the latter's roof
and if child should happen to fall from the
window of many house he would bring up"
on the stone-paved street. 500 feet below
But the glorious view is worth climbing for
There are beautiful hills rising one above an
other, dancing cataracts and majestic noun
tains; there Is the crescent-shaped bay without
ripple upon its FURNISHED surface its ships
motionless as sheeted ghosts and its rolling
tides washing the gray rocks at our fetal
combining TO produce an effect Of profound
psscsfulness-
FAMINE rs IMMINENT.
II il difficult to believe, amid birds and but
terfiies and golden sunshine, that war in its
most horrible form, that of brother against
brother, is deluging this fair country with
blood-impossible to realize that famine ia
abroad in the land and that even now s,arva-
ton threatens the citizens of this ''yale of Par
adise as well as those OF Chilis capital since
no crops can be harvested OF fresh supplies
brought in from any source so long as the
present deplorable state Of affairs continues.
Already the little food to be had commands
prices FAR beyond the reach of the poor and
there is much suffering, especially among the
families OF conscripted soldiers, And what
will IL be weeks later, or NAV be only days
hence, when the advancing horde comes march
ing in? In spite Of herculean efforts to crush
the rebellion President Bamaceda is rapidly
losing ground and as the insurgents gain bold
ness with each victory their natural cruelty in
creases and revolving atrocities become matters
Of every day.
VAST ARRAY OF RED-rnED ROOFS.
Viewed from this altitude the streets in the
level portion Of the town look insignificant.
but their vast array of red-tiled roofs makes
pleasing picture. The houses are mostly three
stored, with thick walls plastered to represent
stone Mr. Spangler, recent missionary
teacher from Kansas, declares that their stiff.
neutrality-suspicious. lines are so out of har-
mony with the gracious landscape that they
suggest TO him cold. damp and cramp collie and
such ineongruous things rs an undertaken al a
picnic and q corpse at a wedding. Bot spanish
American architecture, though different from
anything found at the north has its beauties
and advantages Am ing the latter NAV be
MENTIONED the impoI tant fact that the houses
are hard TO burn. The roofs o; earthen tiles.
imbedded IN dried mui. are extremely
picturesque, especially in these moist sections
where their dull red surface soon takes on a
coating OF moss and hchens. Should a fire
originate in the rafters or in the boards and
sheetlng beneath IL would go out OF its own ac-
cord after they were burned away. because the
heavy mud covering. falling il, would effectu-
ally smother the coniaSratiOu.
THE GILLIAN FIRE DEPARTMENT
By the way, one Of the institutions of Chilli
most conspicuous for its oddity Is the fire de.
partment- All natives compelled bv law To
serve a. bomberos (firemen) or in the militia
and ss most OF the swell young men prefer the
former the fire companies resemble clubs or
similar social organizations and are eliaued ac-
cording to the strictest rules of caste 1t IA in
tensely funny to see the bomberos ont ON a
drill, which Is made the occasion for a stunning
display Of their smart uniforms of white linen
and glittering nickel-plsted helmets and finn
nier still 10 see them at q fre-except for those
whose property Il being destroyed The COR
geous bomberos were never known to put out
q IRE. but their efforts. when they condescsnd
TO make any, are merely directed 10 checking
Its spread by deluging adjacent houses, thereby
generally accomplishing quite as much damage
by water as Is done by fire 1t is not unconl-
mon for some nearby merchant whose stock
In trade would be hopelessiy ruined if the ire
men were allowed their own reckless way 10
pay sums Of money 20 the chiefs of the conn
panies 20 induce them to turn. Ne asuse4nn
other direction, or, failing in that to lock doors
and windows and stand In 'front.' with drawn
fevolvers 10 keep the destructive bomberos at
bay.
THEY TAKE rHEIE TIME
The alarm system ID 90 arranged, by the ring
ing Of bells, that those who understand il can
instantly locate the scene of disaster. occs-
sioaally the bomberos succeed in getting there.
engine and ali, before building 10 quite con-
sumsd They mostly ride up in carrisres. and
repair 70 the balconies Of neighboring houses,
vhsrs they watch the burning as il il were a
spsctacular show gotten up for their benefit.
1s - the coarteous custom Of the neighbors
Aforesaid to set out luncheon for these distin-
Guished guests, including wines and beer.
WAsa not arrived TOO hate to do anything but