Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-03-01

perfect simplicity OIL iorn, oihee sns
designs aud heavy goods are not adapted to
a confusion of drapings or trimmings. At 9
recent dinner party I was unable to resis,
admiring the appearance of one Of the
guests. Her gown was magnlhcent
| brocade. The skirt fell in graceful folds to
| her feet, while full demi-train swept be-
| hind. The corsage was also plain, high
necked and long, very long sleeved. The
| contrast was almost startling as every otner
| woman was in decollete toilette, yet among
| the entire company there was no more dis
tinguished looking woman than she who
wore the high-necked brocade.
ssI can see no indications of any decided
change for early spring or summer. Plain
gored skirts trimmed about the bottom and
| big sleeves with pretty scarfs and grea'
variety of rufied neck kerchiefs and big
lowered hats will cover the style without
| going into details"
What the Marquise di LAMA Thinks.
The beautiful gowns of the Marquise di
LAMA are as well known in New York az
here in Washington, and her taste and rare
judgment In matters pertaining to personal
adornment are always highly regarded.
Nine. di LAMA said: Il fear the tendency oi
the pompadour revival is going to be too
strong for the good sense Of society women.
cannot see in them any inclination toward
increased simplicity, or even the retention
of present moderate fashions. We are 60
ing to have a reign of brocades, full skirts,
puffed sleeves, small waists, high heels and
all the Accomplishments, including crinollne,
fear. :.
1.-THE novelties imported here in ball
gowns creep into thin summer dresses, and
unless rigid English styles prevail once
again exclusively, will finally affect the street
gowns. 1t is hardly probable that the lnva-
sion will show any very pronounced result
till fall, and the summer girl will still
faunt the long swaying skirt of the winter
girl, but with all her ruf1es, puffs and long
waist elaborated.
Initiating Bepowdered Ancestors.
"She will bring our greatgreat-grand..
mothers styles out in sprigged silks and
muslins, and by next winter we shall look
more like our bepowdered ancestors than
ever, and there is no telling where 1t will
stop. Yes, I am sure that the small and
long waists will continue and it Is not the
fault entirely of society women either. The
dressmakers seem leagued together to pro-
long its existence and no matter how en-
phatically woman protests 1t IS almost I'M
possible to find dressmaker who will not
insist on making evening gowns from one TO
three inches smaller about the waist than
walking dresses. They say that all women
lace in the evening. and no matter what
woman says when gown is sent home the
dressmaker has had her way. II dress re-
form is to be successful it should first con-
vert the dressmaker."
The gowns of Mrs. W. D. Owen, wife OF
A.. Do,-n,arfof;va frop, Indiana rhQr-
acterized by dainty grace that commands
sincere admiration. Whatever it is, visit
ing, reception, street. or ball costume, the
purest and most refined suggestions are IL
Illustrated in the composition of it.
Insists on Health Costumes.
Mrs. Owen believes firmly in the en-
couragement of American talent and COM
mits the design OF her costumes to Detroit
artist. In addition, she is in constant cor
respondence with one of the highest author
tiles among fashion writers in England, a
woman who makes a study of the possibil-
tiles and probabilities of the coming sea-
son. and the evolution of styles. Mrs.
Owen said:
81 earnestly advocate that grace in dress
which is only obtainable through strict OBJ
servance of the fundamental principles of
health. Loose fronts, draped fronts, mod
crate amount of ornamentation and light
weight materials are most in accordance
with nv taste. But l realize than within
the coming summer and winter struggle
for supremacy is to take place between
such styles and those Of the brocade regime,
with its unhealthful train of ideas. Bro
cade and poplin are so stiff and harsh In
texture and lend themselves with such i'll
grace to draping and looping that they are
unbecoming to all save a few. I am ad-
vised by my London correspondent that the
soft clinging materials are bound to WIN in
the end and to remain true to them"
Condemns the Immodest Pull-Back.
Mrs. Flower, wife OF Representative
Flower, of New York, appears in toilettes
that are considered marvels Of elegance.
They are creations of Connolly tempered by
Mrs. Flowers own convictions of what is
most in accordance with her style, but
whatever it is, the essence of the latest
ideas characterize it. Mrs. Flower is not an
ardent admirer of very plain and scant
skirts and has a reason for 1t.
''They are immodest," said she, "particu-
larly SO in windy weather. While mod
crate amount of severity in cut is very
commendable, the way in which some Of
the skirts are robbed OF cloth in the front
breadths is pity. have just received a
dress which 1 think combines the ideas
which the best dressed women will prefer
this summer The gored skirt has some
fullness about the hips and the trimming Is
plating with lace. loeped and extending
third of yard from the bottom, for the
heading. The vest is richly embroidered
and the jacket extends half way to the
knees. The back is full demi-train and I
consider long hustle necessary with such
dress"
The differences of opinion among these
ladies tend to prove that no fashion can
wholly destroy individuality in tbe Amer
lean woman of this day, and that particu-
larly while there Is struggle between any
two schools of fashion, every woman can
assert her independence. a good rule in
getting dresses this spring will be when in
doubt as to which is the more stylish, buy
the one which suits your own self.
MISS GRUNDY, JR.