The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-12-14
ACROSS THE SAHARA.
Terrible Suffering From Thirst
on the Hot Sands.
SILENCE OF THE ARID PLAINS.
The sofl Would Be Marvelolsly Pre-
Vegetation wherever Water Il.

ALerxRs, Nov. Especial Correspond
ence. II shall never forget the nrst sight
of the Sahara. l was attached to a column
of the French army and we were on the
sixth day of our march from Algiers.
The road we followed is traced upon
upper mountain sides. the peaks of which
are 6, 600 feet high. All the section in sight
was mountainous. and to the view was
offered the scenery of luXuriant verdure in
deep and extensive valleys, trending to
the southeast. Forests of pine and brush
wood clothe mostly these steep mountains,
the slopes of which are run by tocks all
the year round. Finally our road led US
| near the top of the last mountain clad
with the last forest. When we reached
the declining point of that mountain the
picturesque scene was abruptly shifted.
ALI Of q sudden burst upon our
| view an immense barren and
fiat extension, bathed in q glowing sun
shine and confined only to an indefinite
horizon like that of the seas. 1t exhibited
no signs of life. and vainIy We strained our
eyes TO penetrate its depth nothing more
tangible than dust or vapor was percepti-
bic. We were now in eager contemplation
OF the so much spoken Sahara desert, the
barrier of immigration and the center of
the most torrid zone. That vast waste
stretching from the Atlantic ocean to the
Red sea, parallel to the Mediterranean
basin, but separated from it by from 100 to
eco miles of mountainous regions covers
an area at least three times that of the
Mediterranean. The sight struck my
fancy immensely.
We stopped at the foot of the mountain
where a village is situated at the very en-
trance of the desert. as if its walls were
the boundary between our world. full of
activity, and an unknown sphere, appar-
emily without life, the limit of green and
splendid nature before bare and arid sea
of sand, as well as the contine of civiliza-
ton and barbarism.
That place called Boghari, at the skirt of
the tiat immensely, presents the aspect of
seaport. 1t consists of two villages of an
entirely different architecture and inhab-
tied by two distinct races. On the hill is
built the Arab town (Kasbah). and down
the hill European village borders the
road. This place is central market,
where the hundreds of nomads from hun
dreds OF miles around come to exchange
or sell their sheep or wool, and provide
themselves with grain and all necessary
things.
On entering the empire Of dead silence
and desolation, this town appeared to me
as the last ray from the world of life; as
pharos at the doors of q profound and
dark chaos, whence no man knows when,
if ever, he Will return. Some antiquities
fallen to ruin, still observed in the vici-
nifty, seem to show that here the Romans
limited their conquest, caring not to
fathom the wilderness of the Sahara. Two
days were spent in making preparations
to cross the plain from Boghari to Chel-
lalla, small Arabian city about 100 miles
distant. We had to carry with US pro-
vision for a long time, among which were
sea biscuits. -four, coffee, sugar and spices
for months. wood tor five days and water
for two days only, as the guides had as
sured Us We should find water on the way.
From some of the neighboring tribes, who
! had not been involved in the revolt, $50
camels were hired and added to the num-
Der of mules for the transports.
Everything was now ready, and we were
enjoying refreshing sleep preparatory to
our new journey, when we were awak-
ened at O'Clock in the morning by music
quite near to US. We soon ascertained it
emanated from the camels, which kept up
continual groan while the Arabs were
sa6dling them with their load. The
groan of the camel is somewhat similar TO
that of the hog, though more prolonged,
droning sound.
We started at o'clock, and as rebels
had been seen in that region a few DAYS
previously, we were ordered by our colonel
to march in array to avoid being surprised
IN case of an encounter At IL O'Clock.
of tan yotn al
bed of the Shelf for long hours. we
stopped to encamp in spot called Bough-
zoul, where an isolated caravansary stands.
Now, here, if words can adequately
convey an idea of the scene around.
presented to my eyes and engraved
on my memory, | will endeavor TO
picture it. Before US was the barren
plain, with misty perspective enveloping
the mirage. Behind US in the distance
could still be seen the green mountains.
now far away, where we had first seen the
immensely unrolling before Us. Over our
heads >corching sun and under our feet
burning sand. On all sides an immovable
sea; not tree 10 rest the eye upon: not a
bit Of yerdure nor Wild dover nor a bird
TO comfort the heart. The desolation was
/ complete in that strange land, co.orless.
dry and silent as a cemetery.
But this harrenness and dead solitude
prevails only during the summer. With
the autumnal rain grass grows and
Clothes the greater part of the surface.
attracting there the immense herds Of cat
tie OF the nOmaGs; the antelope. iackai
and other animals run over; docks of
BIRDS, haminSoes. ravens etc, migrate
there and take their sport around little
salt lake near by, which is partly nlled
during eight months of the wear. The
lakes and cases OF Northern Sahara are
known 10 be the winter quarters of the
birds which migrate periodically.
In the spot where Ne pitched our tents
TWO wells had been dug ont a long time
before 10 provide water for the soldiers
passing through. We eagerly sought the
wells, but disappointment and chagrin
awaited us; no sooner had our Inns tasted
the water than il WAS thrown away. he
heving II TO he poisonous because of its
strong saline qualities. Our doctor made
an analysis on II and found il tree from
any poisonous substance. il containing
only the natural principles Of that ground
Tie advised Us 10 filter it. which We d;1
through towel hlled with sand. bu, its i'll
TASTE was not much improved by that oper-
alton. Then we tried boiling il. after
which it was found little better good
enough for cooking with but we had great
trouble to cool il With tanning. and when
AZ last we had lowered It's degree 10 luke
War0ness, our threats stlii refused TO swal-
low II; We were given some from thar
reserved in the barrels.
Next day we went forth again across
that same lutermln2h.e plain. seeing
nothing but the mirage in the extreme
distance. with vapor in the atrnosDbera
as Il that mirage was a boiling sea. The
spectacle which at hrsf We found attract