The sun., 1891-05-24
THE EyeIIsH LAKE DIsTRIcE

THE EvGLIsH LAKE DIsTRTCL
A Coach Trip Threush the Hxe-ery.ree
pied Land from Keswiek 70 winseruer'
The stridins Edge on Mighty Helveilyr
v.
wrNDERMERE. England. May 12-The conven
tional trip taken through the lake district II
either from Windermere. By coach NORTH
through tho heart OF the region to Keswlck. Of
over the same grand highway by coach south tc
Windermere. Thus tourists. and particularly
Americans. who wish to make the best use o
their hours. are enabled to secure very good
general idea Of the district. and certainly look
upon that portion richest In associative inter-
est-while viewing Its finest lakes, loveliest
wales. and loftiest mouutains-by an expendi-
ture OF but one days time. An old travellers
word for it, seldom In lifetime can q day be
filled so exaltiRy.
At Keswick or windermere you have daily
the choice OF score Of four-in- hand coaches.
Some are OF the old English and Concord pat
terms. but most are built high In air. open.
seating at least twenty fares; are wonderfully
constructed for strength and lghtness: give q
delightful sense OF breezy altitude to passen-
gers. and furnish in their cavernous "bodies" I"
vast storeroom for parcels and luggage. Most
OF these coaches are provided with guards with
musical horns and rosy noses. with taciturn
drivers. who loiter about the stables Of the
nobility In winter. and exist in q defiant atti-
tude OF protest against questions In summer.
and with tho handsomest coach horses to be
found in all England. You can leave Winder-
mere or Keswick, in either direction at any
hour OF the day between Z and q: and the ride
OF oftwenty.one miles. through several Of the
deepest valleys and over two Of the highest
passes OF the region. is usually accomplished
In about five hours.
You are at Keswlck. II you have booked"
at least three days in advance. have paid for
two fares beside your own and have privately
consulted with stipendary notifications the
driver and guard as to the most favorable
measures for viewing the region. you can se-
cure your seat on the box OF the most popular
couch. a. nine In tho morning. amid the
envy and Rlares Of the remainder Of the
fares" whom you find represent almost evory
civilized nationality. Americans nnl Germans
predominating. II you ask questions you will
also secure the largest number OF wide. winged
"out-and-outers" with which your credence
was ever assailed. Your own knowledge OF the
literature and Topography OF the lake region is
your sole amulet against these. But your
coach fs away with all the shouting rattle.
and footing necessary to remind you that at
last you are the proud possessor. with Its other
Of a genuine British institution. The gentle
thrill which accompanies this reflection has
barely subsided when you have passed beauti-
full Greta Bridge. and with a sudden turn to
the right begin the long ascent Of Castle Rig9
tho most windin' one for 'osses o. the
stretch" the driver remarks in the single
truthful statement you will receive all the way
to Windermere. But in this long. slow climb
you pass Chestnut Hill, quaint little crooked
roof house. with its historic sycamore. elm.
aud cherry tree. where Shelley brought his
schoolgirl bride. and where they chased each
other like happy children about the flower
beds. until the stern Cum5rlan landlord chased
hem both away. As the coach s halted at the
op OF Castle RiGg 1000 feet above Keswick.
grand and beautiful indeed is that scene be-
hind. The entire vale Of Derwent is spread to
view. Keswick. gray and snug. is half hidden
n its bosom. To the west gleams the upper
'eaches OF Derwentwater with the crags of
irassmoor beyond. Saddleback looms In the |
lortheast. Beyond the tower of old Cross
hwaite Church. where Southey lies buried, |
hines the blue bed Of Bassenthwaite Water. |
IND across the whole lovely vale. where the !
arms spread in checkered patches Of color to |
he sun. lofty Skiddaw stands monarch SUBJ |
ime Of the Cumbrian North.
This dragging way over Castle Rigg Is one |
II the two great heights you will attain by |
'oach on your pleasant journey. The other is
It Dunman Raise. Just before you pass into
Nestmoreland. You are in Cumberland now.
This was the Little Britain Of long ago. 1t was
he home OF those fierce and uncon1uerable
3rigantes who. from the time the region was
;nown as Brigantia until 1t became Cumber.
and. beat back the Saxon from the east. the
Welsh from the SOUTH and Picts from the north,
nd met every foe outside their mountain
;sres. Marvellously sweet and fragrant ia
he morning as you now smoothly spin along
hese noble heights But 1t seems scarcely
o have reached the deepest Wales. To your
iRht the west-for your direction is nearly al
rays due south from Keswlck to Windermere-
re the seemingly endless fells. odorous with
he budding heath. and here and there mass
I color from banks OF violets, the gentle
rec Teeze stirring the whole fell;side as II with
be Wide. smooth mou ntain road winds be.
ween overhanging !iohened rocks. spans
hadowy dingles. and Mt it's apparent end
Of o crop But now 10 the e de@s
own. as IL into some vast witch cauldron
he sight deescends. den and attempts to pene-
!, reaching St Johns Vale. Dense and DARK
I the Wales lowest depths the mist breaks
IN al
old. Half disclosed behind them are the
ark gray outlines OF the mighty craig. Castle
SO nos ss It fsHFf eBt Brds
with its
Wicket OF oak. as iron hard.
VIZ, Iron studded so.,i esnched ,nd barred,
Tho gloomy rass below
int you need no better view.
IN descent of, Castle KeG. los a huge ov NOV
q cioudi ~ Is , Slowly passing down the val.