Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1891-06-23
I etter from Algiers.

Correspondence of the Alexandria Gszette1
ALGIERs, Africa, May 10 After delight
full trip through the charming is!aud of
Sicily, We crossed over from Palermo to
Tuuis, 3. here We received our first inpree-
sion cf oriental ifs and very vivid one it
was. We were me- 90 our arrival at the dock
By no less than hun Trad little Arabs wi b
,u.b us or ftz, on their heads and in highly
coored costumes, who snatobed the luggage
f,t m our hards 10 spite of stout resi- stan CO.
We became angry and one OF our party, q
Mr. DsCsppst. from New York, struck out
manfully TO the right and left. We were at
laat rescued by the man from the hotel and
onr lu2esga carried TO be examined It ten
steps dis;snt. The Arabs, of ccurPe, only
Wished to oltry the baggage these ten steps,
but from their manner and the number OF
them Que felt that sack might easily be lost
forever.
We have seen nothing more typical Of
o,ieutal life tben the town OF Tuois. II lie
uoder the pro.ectora.e Of France since en-
years, but has preserved a character quite
Its own. There aie one hundred and fifty
thousand inhabitants and shout ten thous-
aud Freuch only The rest are Arabs, Jews,
aud negroes. The impression Of one who
has never seen this life, and sees Tuuis for
the e .st time lie O queer one. The Arabs In
white tu,bans and loug flowing draperies,
OF all colcre. pink, salmon, rouge, seems un-
natural, and one fees as If be we're witness.
ine grand spectacle on tine stage.
small part of the town is quite French
with its high buildings, cafes, large stores,
but large portion. three quarters, Is purely
Arab, with houses of one story, built OF
stone, covered with plaster, OF whiteness
that is dazz log in the sunlight, when they
are clean, but they ars very often very dirty
and yellow. with the narrow, crooked
streets, the largest barely admitting the pas.
sage of wagon and In the majority the lit
tie donkey with his basket can barely pass.
douseys loaded down with all kind OF OBJ
jects, driven by little Arab. who soreams
and strikes them with his stick aS every
sfep. They sre queer little beasts, with
their long hair. and very dirty, for they are
never groomed. Most OF them are no larger
than a good big Newfoundland dog.
One secs them also In Naples where the
driver keeps hold OF the tail ard uses 1t as
kind OF rudder which he pulls to the right
or left to guide them. Many OF them have
the hair completely worn off on the tai! from
the constant friction OF the hand.
In these narrow streets one is constantly
obliged to baok up against the wall to give
passage to the donkeys. On each eide aie
the small shops, about feet square the
average, and the Arab sqUatting ou the DOT
with his legs crossed, working at his
trade. They pever e.aDd when .heg
can squat down. You may stand the
whole day locking at them il you will they
will never look at you or give the least re.
ooxni,ion of you7 presence. They despise
Us heartily, you krow. The Arab quarter
lie exceedingly Interesting, on every aide the
women, in their graceful costumes, yelled,
showing only their eyes. This fashion OF
yelling the face seeme to give an increased
trlliancy to the eyes. The negresses are
yelled also In fact, nearly all Mohamme-
dan women arc. The JsWeeses 20 unveiled
and wear costumes of the highest colors and
covered with their odd jswelry. The Coz
tunes are very effective. The Arabs In ID
mis- are probably the richest In Africa, the
costumes are bsndsomer and the houses
have more of an air, sil OF which makes the
town the most attractive in Africa for the
stranger.
For the ladies the enormous bfzasrs are
the most attractive bjeots here. Il ia moth
ing but large collection OF little shops
where all kinds Of Arab work is sold-silks,
weapons, embroidery, carvings. ETC., etc.
There Is no end to the pretty things that
are exhibited. Nearly all of the shop-keep-
ere are Jews and swindle you most awfully.
Every one bargains. One generally effs;s
about one-fourth OF the price demanded. l
remember I gave one man 20 francs for
something for which be had demanded 16O
francs. He slwsys declared that cut his
throat, as be expressed 1t, but one is never
cure that one is not awindled. We bought
few pretty thiugs in eilks. etc. a
few of the better shops Offer you
cuo of their excellent Arab coffee when
you enter, to put you in good humor, l
suppose.
We took boat from Tonis to town OF
ths coast of Algeria, Phillipville, little
FreDch town. In Algeria The aspect changes,
everything Is more French and the Arabs
are drtier and are miserable lot as rule.
You know that has belonged to France for
thirty years. from Philiipvile We went
down to Biskrs. the terminus OF the railroad.
From that point one must take the camel
or the Arab horse for the tripe. You can
follow our route on the fine map that you
have at home.
This northern part OF Algeria la mapni6.
cent country, very fertile and very beauti-
ful. Along the route from Phlllpville for q
long distance you pass through q rich
rolliog country. filed with herds OF sheep,
cattle and borses and vineyards every where.
Alongside the cattle you see solitary
Arab squatting, wrapped in his white burn
GUS, making plciureequs point in the land
scspe. Two hours oetore reaching Blskra
the landscape undsrgoss complete change,
the train passes through gorge in range
cf mountains there and we come upon
little Arab village. built of mud, situated in
little oas.s-our first oasis-where there is q
little stream of water which passes through,
AID every where date trees, thousands and
thoussnds. Wherever there is wafer 10 his
region you 6nd the date trees. This large
cluup of date trees extends for sbor; DIS
tsnca orl:. After that no vegetation TO
speak Of. sothing bat hills of dit ard store,