New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-06-14
PILLARS OF HERCULES.
COLONEL MATHEWS DESCRIBES VISIT TO
THE GEBEL MoUsA OF THE MooRS.

SCENES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH
THE HILL COUNTRY OF
MOROCCO = TANGIEa
AND TEFuAN.
Tsngier, May 15-The southern Pillar OF Her
cules the modern Gebel Mousa of tho Moors which
rears its cloud-oapped summit TO the skies, Is
familiar object to voyagers approaching from the
Atlantic the narrow entrance TO the Mediterranean
Sea, yet few travellers ever visit it. Il never
beard Of the Gebel Mousa having been visited by
an American before myself" said Consul-General
Mathews, who for twenty years has represented The
United States Government on the Barbary coast
~and only recently has it been visited by one or
two Europeans In fact the district Of Morocco
In which this historic mountain is situated is In
habtted by wild and lawless tribe of Moors among
whom il is far from safe for Christian without
strong guard to travel Colonel Mathews gave
the following account of his own trip 10 the Gebel
Meusa the Mount Ahyla Of the ancents and 1t
NAV prove useful TO tourists who may hereafter
undertake the journey
II was early in April when i visited the mountain
which plunges its almost perpendicular northern
slope into the waters Of the Straits of Gibraltar
It's present Arabic name signifyng the mountain of
Mousa. is derived from the surname of Mousa Ben
Nazair the Moorish viceroy Of the Caiph Valid /.
Ibu-Zegad lwho has bestowed bis name on the Euro
pean pillar Of Hercules Gebel Tarik, or Gibral-
tar invaded Spain in the early part of the eighth
century, and speedily subdued the Wis
iroths The Gebel Mousa is known 10
the Spaniards as Sierra Bullones, and
70 the English Inhabitants of Gibraltar as
"Apes Hill, from vulgar superstition that there
sxists submarine passage from this hill under the
straits for the express accommodation Of the taess
quadrumana who are occasionally 10 he seen among
the palmetto bushes with which the summit of the
Rock of Gibraltar is covered
The Governor of the Province of Angera furnished
me with an expert guide named SAT- who was well
acquainted with every trail and mountain pass
in the province. In order TO accomplish the
greater part Of the journey on the starting day
before the sun had attained its full power had,
through the courtesy of the Governor Of Tangier,
the city gates opened at 8 o'clock in the morning.
I was riding q strong but shy mule, and was
followed by my soldier, armed with rude, long
Moorish frelock and an immense cheeSeknife.
After him came the mueteers with the tent and
provender, well secured on the backs of six mules;
the rear brought up by grave old man
seated on the back Of an enormous, bony animal,
between O couple of " shuarrees" 1.-THE leave pam
niers) which serve the means of carrying goods
in Barbary In these baskets were packed the
culinary utensils, and the grave old man of 50
much Importance to us was the cook The guide,
with his shoes on his back, marched proudly ahead
with his long matchbox slung over his shoulder.
We soon were passing through the great market
place outside the south gates of Tangier, and the
country people who had brought in their loads
of produce on the previous evening, and had
slept for the night in their camel's hair tent.
were already astir and preparing for the business
in the market day Moorish women were spread
ing before them their stock of chickens, eggs,
bread, salt. pottery fruits, vegetables and cOun-
try produce, and droves Of camels were just arriv
ing from the interior, laden with bceswaX, hides,
gums and grain for shipment TO Europe
Picking our way carefully lest in the dim morn
ing twilight should trample upon some sleepers,
we were post the market-place and the
slope on which the Sultan's cavalry camp on
their way 10 Tangier, and few minutes ride along
the outside OF the crumbling east wall and the
old Portuguese flank fort and outworks of 1920.
now occupied as the Jewish cemetery brought
us TO the bathing tents and wide stretch Of sand
beach which surrounds the Bay of Tangier. The
sun was rising casting beautiful rosy tint over
the rock Of Gibraltar and the distant hills Of
Spain on the other side of the waters by the time
we crossed the River Wad-el-Hall1, near the
mouth Of which are the ruins of Tanga-el-Balca
told Tangier) the Tingis Of the Romans OF ancient
Mauritania one of the cities founded by the giant
Antaeos the discounted opponent Of Hercules
We crossed the river by shallow ford and after
passing the salt marshes struck into the hiy coun-
try, winding our way along the mountain passes
and hillsides. By seven o'clock we reached the
banks of the river Wad-el-Leean. This stream
runs through broad valley which is nearly all
cultivated. The sidehills abound with the red
legged partridges of Barbary. Near its mouth
there are some fine oyster beds equal in size and
favor TO those of Oregon. Tall oleanders and
olive trees ornament the banks of the river. We
travelled across barren and rocky bills till we de-
ecended TO the seashOre at the mouth of the river
Wad- El-Kagar. on the right bank of which are
the extensive ruins of "Acazar-Seguer, an ancient
CITY founded bv the Romans and aftervard re-
built by the Moors. from whom il was taken by
assault at night by the Portuguese. under the
command Of their King AlOnzo, in 145S. They
kept the city for many years and when they
abandoned il. DESTROYED the town and castles. and
up this day il has been abandoned and deserted.
From among the ruins large olive, fig and cork
trees evidently of great age are growing. In some
of the massive gates vet standing. still can be
seen the Portuguese coat-of-arns We passed
along some rich and well-cultivated SOIL with the
occasional sight of small mud cottage with its
palmetto-leaf thatch. and then after few minutes
of uphill travel 10 fine spring of clear
water under the shade of twisted and venerable
fg tree where we halted and took our breakfast
When about starting again on Journey we met
the Kalifa or ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS of the province
escorted by dozen rough-looking mountaineers as
his body guard. The chief approached with a
great salutation and prolonged salaam.
"RajbabcOom lyou are very welcome. You.are
indeed welcome 10 our lofty lands and to all the
comforts under power" said the chief, touch
ing my hand with his and then placing il his
breast He said the Governor had sent 10 him a
courier 20 inform him of my coming through his
district, and that he had strict orders 10 accom-
pany me and see 10 my wants. / thanked him
and told him / should like only 10 procure some
barley for my animals
The barking Of legion Of dogs signaled our