The Helena independent., 1891-11-24
Fashions Latest Whims Probably
the Most lnartistic Ever
Seen.
|rhe Popular Henri III. Toques Do
Not Suit One Face Out Of
. Hundred.
Anothcr Mania IL the Ribbon Craze
Evening Dresses for Young Girls
Suede GiOyes.

n their grotosqns attire, as now. Without
being ultra. every woman looks asif she
we're dressed for a masquerade ball, and
vithout fhyme or reason. for she is made
ID of odd bits Of every period. The Henri
III. toques, for instance, do not suit one
ace in hundred; yet every fne lady wears
hem, at least occasionally, and the NANTES
make one look like the broadside of a
hip in full sail. The long ones were hard
|nongh to carry gracefully, but the present
hort ones, reaching to the knee, with theii
huge epaulets fixed to fit over the broad
Leaves of the dress beneath, are simply
ErotesQus.
The only pleasant feature of these trying
circumstances are the long skirts and the
Iretty jupons. The absolute umbrella
hape jupe, lined throughout, il as light a.
fsather, and no decent woman allows the
lias- point to trail, for it 10 easily
licked up, in fact, as mouchoir; and the
isplay Of the lace -insertioned or edged
ilksn petticoat, quite clearing the ground,
OF not immodsstly displaying either feet
: ankles, is particularly fascinating. The
hort mantc, however, is scarcely more
rying than the long jacket, cutting the
verage woman quite in two; this is the
feet with small hips; with large hips the
gure becomes caricature.
The best houses, boasting Of dexterous
Iit and nimble fingers. endeavor TO accom-
uodate fashion and grace by tracing fur
ines in bolsro shape on the waist, or by
visiting up compromised watteau plalt,
ointing upward on the back from the
rain. Then, too, the latest fad, the 80
allied suivez moi ieune Lomme, fastened
b the neck behind or at the side, and in
iting imaginary gallantry to the faded
harms of forty odd, the rosette KNOT and
be long satin streamers arc too ridiculous
No one appears to have sense enough to
ght against the royal 1ulo imposed by that
htal and always unknown dictator whose
eign is still more absolute because it is
bysteriously divided aud blindly accepted
willing. asking slaves. Look at Hading's
esseS in mos lntimes." They are signed
.aferriere, and with all the benent allowed
tho familiar bad taste OF tho actress, sell
ON were such ugly notions seen. For the
hite dress, insertionea with narrow satin
fbbon and covered with imitation Alencon
ice, passe encore; but tho white satin
ONE toilet, with the lace blouse embio old
red in flowers, looks for all the world like
stray piecs of curtain torn down from the
arlor windows. Even the pretty idea of
be eoru Venetian point prlncesse over ths
ale green satin fourreau il spoiled by the
Extraordinary corselet Of turquoise velvet
Embroidered in gold. Celia Went comme les
haveux sur la soupe.
On this side OF the footlights. In the
.naIl narrow French bandbox boxes, the
houlders of two women maat, and above,
seir hsads. with the small bump of CHG
on perohed up high, and the tin ieweled
onnet with the still higher plumes, seem
very woman wears white satin strings,
nd these require delioiously soft skin,
|oeming color--this can be tound--and a
|elioacy of transparent smoothuess quite
nusual to French beauty.
The best houses-ljke Worth for example
seek refuge in the purity of authentic
lyle. He uses lampas for his Louis XIV.
pon pale green or blue surface. The
road revers blaze with jet and the sleeves,
Parcely raised on the shoulder. are ali
med with the same, on the inside OF the
I'm. Even this garment has velvet
ourpoint most difficult to carry pleas
billy. Quite naturally. the cut is saving
Face and tho antique buttons do not
bok out of place if all is suited to the
Dsition and to personal carriage. Worth
lakes carriage wraps of damask with tut-
uose stones set in ell over, and for the
heater he uses only Japanese and Chinese
pods-gold embroidery on blue or scar-
\ ground. These nantes are satin lined.
Bile trimmed, and with boa of the same;
be sleeve epaulets are fastened with jewel
asps. Science, assurance. and the name
i've these from the general curse OF eY-
favagancs and e1aggeration.
Another mania is the ribbon craze. From |
be narrow eometo-frst thrust in favor by |
|irot-to the broad satin or velvet No. II
ksrything and everybody is iooped and
Pwsd. OF every size, of every twist rib
pn bowknots adorn dress, hat, coat, muf
|eel and jet, or gold and silver, and even
(shions them in imitation of flower and |
|af.
|Bsauaeigneur follows suit in her moire |
|riped corsets and petticoat to correspond.
lack and yellow, lilac and cream. green
bid rose, with a hounce of lace insertion |
hd ribbons to match the shades.
For small dresses-half toilets, as the
Fench say-black silk, satin or more
|ripes, picked out III gay flower clusters
|ses, lilacs morning glory and the always
kquisite violet. are tho rage. Chantilly, |
ixsd with heavy point, discreetly trims
10 waist. Another novelty, and quite a
bw idea in trsth, is a black crepe de
hins gown. cut out around the plain jupe
1uA ~ ACeAHhe w NAnRtov ko ScOub COlOE-
|R beneath. such as coral, lemon, emerald
Feen or bright orange. The corsage is all
|ack-what a blessing for stout people
bit the slsoves are lined with flashing colora
ke tho jups. Cleverly managed, these
Pwns are becoming, stylish and novel.
For very young girls home evening
Fesscs are made of soft, light tinted cloth,
fth row of swans down at the edge of
10 skirt, around the neck. and on the
b0yes II is smple becoming and cirlish
|orth makes most elaborate theatsr dresser
cloth, such rs sulphur color, with heavy
lche OF pinked white silk; the jupe entirely
|vsred with steel heads, enciroling the
ltternH, cut out to show the white silk
hing. On rose pink cloth he spreads an
hbroidsry of many colored stones all over
e front of a plain princess gown, laced
hind.
The latest homo caprice hero ia the auto
aph tablooloth. You take very smooth,
20 cloth, either light gray or bright scarlet,
id you ask all your friends to write their
lme or verse, or stray thought-with
knature OF course--in lead pencil. This
u embroider carefully in varied shades in
* and wool, so as to make variety of
lor. of light and shade. Rule, reason, or
RSsical methods must be thrown to the
nds; nu contralre, tho greAt charm ia
3 barbarous freaks of ench writer's wild
ose chase. It must all be the pelo mele.
you can obtain 1elebratod autographs.
mr. table cov0r mny be worth hundreds Of
liars in time, hut the simple writing of ]
ain Mrs. q. looming next to her dear friend
ID intimate enemy, Mma. D., makes
eat fun for the gallery, and, moreover, il
stly becomes an unfsiling source of inter
and gossip.
Another new fancy 10 the hugo theatsr
x. Instead OF the small opera glass silken
verfng, u genuine empire bag ia made: