Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-09-20

ininity that kept alive in her nature a love
for iace-like effect, and doubtless as the web
grew and she entangled flower and green
leaf she remembered regretfully the recep-
tons at the court of Jupiter, and as she
spun, sighed at the remembrance of the
naughtiness that had banished her from its
gay scenes. She did not allow regret to
stay her industry, but taught the daugh-
tiers OF men a lesson that they are not likely
to unlearn.
Lace, in modern times, has no season or
particular place. Like the fitch of bacon
and the black silk dress, it is very con-
venient to have in the house; and now gar
rets and chests are being searched for the
treasures that We're worn in the colonial
days, Neither is modern lace making re-
stricted to the using of filmy threads, for
metals aud even more stubborn material
are wrought into such delicate tracery as
rivals the fairy web so often seen bright
with dew spangles. Lace will enter largely
into the fall millinery. Although tinsel is
on the wane, jewel effects and jet embroid-
cries are now seen on most of the models.
By some mysterious gift millinerS will
combine lace, feathers, flowers and passe-
menterie in such way as to secure an ar
tistic whole.
Perhaps one Of the greatest novelties is
the use Of chamois in bonnets; pretty
crowns of this material are shown studded
with jet, or different coiored stones, moon
stones, turquoise, rubies, etc, these
wrought in Persian design. The shapes in
hats and bonnets show little change, and
the preference seems to be for small toques,
Gapots or plateau shapes
There see ms to be no decadecce in the
use of lace for dresses and for trimming. 1t
is worn over satin, black and colored, and
used for fiounces, ruffies around the bottom
Of the basque and gracefully arranged upon
the bodice. Chantilly is perhaps the favor
tie weave, but lace Of any pattern is worn.
Prominent among the new fail and winter
wraps is the cape; to an ordinary eye there
appears to be no material change in the
shape although dealers tell you that the
cloaks for midwinter have capes or cape
like sleeves, are half loose, with Vatican
back and tiaring collar. A very dressy out
of-door garment is a short cloak pleated
into an embroidered, braided or jetted yoke
with very high rolling collar, frequently
edged with fur or feather trimming, the
latter being much used for dresses. High
sleeved coats are worn by young girls, and
jackets are being made without darts or hip
seams. The furore for gilt trimming has
passed by and fur and feathers take the
place. Blacks and grays and the the diff
ferent shades of tan will be the choice in
color for the winter.
There is nothing more elegant in the way
of gowning than the latest weave of Bed
ford cording OF course, it IS not cheap
fabric. costing as it does, from 81 TO So yard,
but then once bought there is not much TO be
spent in trimming. The weave this winter
differs from the former in that the cords
are larger and it looks like corduroy
Serge and cheviots for the school girls
have no equals i'll point OF durability and
suitableneSs. There is no marked change
in styles; the swing front and fan-pleated
back are still in vogue. The back fullness
is arranged in two box pleats, reaching
from the middle of the back to either side
and the extra width made in fine pleats in
the back underneath the box pleats, and in
order to hang well the skirt must be fitted
with as much care as the sleeves and bod
ice. The dip is said to be a little shorter
than in the summer.
Plaids are still cut on the bias, both in
skirts and bodices. Misses and young
ladies will wear guimps (gamps) of thin
material, silk or cotton, with warm under
wear. Bodices made with vests and
pointed back and front, with frills at the
bottom and mutton leg sleeves, are the
prevailing styles in autumn costumes.
Whenever the gown IS of the preferred En-
glish goods it is always tailor-made, cut
strictly correct, and always shows the
very best taste and style, more so because
pretending to be simple.
The Pr:ncesse shape is much sought
after, and every gown that permits it is cut
in that way. No mater ial is too simple to
be developed in it, and none is too rich but
care must be taken in making Princesse
gown to see that the skirt portion is draped
to suit the figure of the wearer, and that
the trimming is so arranged that the figure
is brought out at its best.
\ pretty design in cancels hair cloth is
Princsse gown cut so that the sections of
of the skirt fare apart and show dull In
dian-red velvet, gaining in this way COM
bination of autumn colors that is at one ar
tistic and becoming The bodice portion is
double breasted. and closed with small, fiat
buttons matching the green in color. The
collar and revers and cuffs are of the Indian
velvet, while the braiding is done with
4 mixted soutache that showed red, green,
and gold, the darker shades in it predomi-
mating so that the effect is really much qui-
eter than one would suppose from the
description.
A simpler gown is made in this fashion
of dark-blue camel's hair, with velvet the
same shade, and having braiding of blue
and gold mixed soutache; Or if one objects
to the braiding, the velvet could form the
only decoration the edges of the nane1-1ilze