Los Angeles herald. [volume] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1890-1893, 1891-11-08
MEXICO.
BY GEORGE RICE.

A trip through old Mexico is one of
peculiar delight, where the most unex-
pected things or scenes are found in the
most unexpected places. The pass, Ell
Paso, Texas, is the starting point in
Mexico, where the tourist boards the
splendidly equipped train, passes over
the Rio Grande into Mexico, stopping
at the custom house, at Ciudad de Jua-
rez, to have his baggage inspected,
which, by the way, is quickly done by
gentlemanly officers, and really may not
be called an inspection. A good supper
is to be had here when you re-enter the
Pullman and arrange for comfortable
nights rest. There is not much to see
during the first twenty-four hours; Chi
huahua, the capital OF the state of the
same name, is passed at breakfast time
the first morning, where Chinaman
runs good eating house. There we
bid good bye to the heather, as we dc
not see any more of them, not even as
"washee man."
Without stopping to give description
OF the route, which is very interesting,
and which we described in a former let
ter, we enter the City OF Mexico, from
where all points can be visited and
where there is sightseeing galore. We
went directly to the hotel that bears the
name of the Emperor Iturbide, but after
the first day, went to the hotel Jardin,
which is much better and costs less, no
charge for the name.
This is wonderful city, fearfully
made, with population ditto. The
City of Mexico is more like romance
than reality. Its buildings are mostly
two and three stories, very plain and
with balconies to all upper widows and
barred below. The entrances to
hotels, residences, offices, etc., are from
the street to an inner court these courts
are most always ornamented with plants
and flowers, some beautiful and others
are filled with old carriages, boxes, rub
bish, pigs, chickens and ragged, dirty
Mexicans. There is no aristocratic
residence street here, for they are sand
wiched in anywhere; business blocks,
fine residences, and poverty flats. The
governments, national and city, are
most indulgent with the masses of poor,
but happy, contented, indolent people
with no wants, unless it is a lottery
ticket. Speaking of lottery tickets, I
verify believe that fully fifty persons
Mexicans-men, women and children,
accosted me on the streets in walking
the distance of four blocks, to sell lot
terry tickets. Hundreds of natives in
ragged, dirty clothing are everywhere
on the streets selling everything. The
following articles were offered to me in
the order named i Lottery ticket, En-
glish walnuts, razor, cookies, live tur-
keys, TUNES, pictures, live dove, leather
fruit, pair OF pants. roasted corn, combs,
puppies, Catholic image of Virgin, jew
elry, hot fritters, fried fish, cakes galore,
newspapers and lottery tickets till you
could not ''see straight" The turkeys
were alive, on foot, about twenty-five in
all, not tied in any way, but herded or
driven through one Of the principal
streets of the city by Mexican woman
and boy. 1t would fill book to tell OIL
all the eccentricities we saw in week.
GA few" is what nice young Span
ish clerk said, when we asked him if hi
spoke English; notice in the window
said: English spoke"
Tourists will find even a smattering o.
Spanish most useful, although English
is spoken at most hotels and places Of
business. There are 127 Catholic
churches, most of them large and
imposing; the largest cathedral (the
largest in America) is 200x432 feet, with
two towers 200 feet high. Some OF the
paintings within are said to be the work
of Murillo. The government has one OF
the largest palaces in the world, 675 feet
front, only two stories high and very di-
lapidated. Here the president, his cab.
met, congress, etc., hold forth. A mu-
scum of considerable interest occupies q
part OF it. The art gallery, near by. is
said by those who know, to be very fine
We enjoyed it very much and felt very
much flattered while admiring an ole
painting, when the guide informed III
This is one OF Morilla's famous ole
masterpieces" The picture that at
tracted our attention most was
great canvas some s15x18 feet il
size, representing the friar Las Casa
protecting the Aztecs, painting
by Felix PARA. There were many NOR
grand paintings that would require al
artist and weeks of study to fully appre
fciate.
In the museum the government ha
attempted to place all objects of histori
cal value, and many rare and interest
ing relics are to be seen; Maximilian'
coach occupies room to itself and
said to be the finest and most magnif
cent in the western world, even surpass
ing in. elegance the imperial carriage o
the car of Russia.
The hottest shrine in Mexico is Quad
aloupe, where nearly 400 years ago TIT
Holy Virgin appeared on this spo
before a pious Indian Juan Diego
On Juan Diego tilma-which is
OF the commonest and cheapest SOFT,
picture of the virgin was miraculousl,
painted in colors that are still bright
A grand church has been built in com
memoration of the event.
There are various suburbs of much in
terast to be visited such aa San ANGEL