The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-11-01
THE MUDLESS GOWN.
AN EXPERT OPINION FROM ONE
OF THE FOUR HUNDRED.

4nS heplu transit FurOre 49, The
Question OF Barmaids - Horsemen
Talk of Sunol.
NEW YORK, Oct. ST. have just had
what insist upon considering the unusual
nerve 20 interview feminine member Of
tbs Four Hundred.
The mudless gown having made its ap-
pearance in Boston, aud a formal move
ment having appeared at the Hub, leaving
the rest OF the continent to follow suit
tal!or-made suit seemed to be impera-
tive that some expression OF opinion should
be exa,ted from New York. In order 10
acquire on opinion that might be- consid-
cred IN some measure official.
improved an excellent opportunity which
presented itself yesterday. to talk on the
subject With lady whose name appears
in Mr. McAllister's list.
You will believe that there are subjects
upon which it might be easier TO conduct
an interview. Yet the way has been pre-
pared in some measure by the dress reform
tendency that has appeared in so much mod
ern discussion. For como months New York
women have been talking vaguely and in
conclusively about dress reform: sending
pictures 60 the newspapers in illustration OF
certain timid theories of dress revolution:
and ali the time helping the street cleaning
. commissioners to remove from the city
! th0roughfares that peculiarly fine quality OF
mud in the production of which New York
holds unique distinction.
short skirtsF' said the lady Of the Four
Hundred. well, they are an excellent
theory, and it is true that they will neither
catch the dirt from the sidewalks nor from
ones heels. Then men could not step on
hens that were eight inches from the
ground, although | have seen men accom-
plish performances that might have seemed
not less impossible. l suppose there are
other distinct advantages, so far as the
theory Of rainy day costume goes. But
every dress reform movement necessarily
begins with the shortening if not with the
abandoning of the skirt, aud here the dress
reformer meets the two great obstacles
which have so long stood in her way
Tine first of these obstacles is the preju-
dice against the loss Of the drapery feature
Esthetic preference is for the maintenance
of drapery. We cannot get away from the
charm Of long flowing drapery. We may
find practical reasons for giving It up
wholly or in part, but you may be very GER
tain that for distinct beauty we will never
be able to get "a substitute for graceful
flowing lines. And the greatest practical
value Of drapery brings us to the second
y
who are not beautiful"
"Do you mean" began.
"Yes, do mean that dress reform is gem
orally direct threat at women who have
not good figures. Now, drapery Is demo-
cratic device. 1t leaves 80 much to the
imagination THAI woman who is too heavy
or too slight is shielded by the convention
alizing lines Of her gown. The minute you
began shortening skirts or doing away with
them altogether you begin 70 make it very
hard for a very portly woman to look any
thing but what she actually is.n
And that is a sin" l added.
"Of course il Is @ sin. There are a great
many pretty women In the world but the
proportion Of Venus dc Medcl TO the whole
number is distre sinRly small. We can't
afford, you know, 10 consider these Venus
de Medicis only. The great majority rule
the question, and the great majority will
insist upon something that leaves enough 10
the Imagination to give them a chance i'll
the competition for distinction.
But do you rneAu 60 say" l suggested,
with some hesitation, that the modern
fashionable gown always leaves much TO
the imaginAtionW
"If it does not IL is not artistic, and |
think only the exception Gins in this respect,
At least every gown has the flowing skirt,
and we at least conventionalize half OF the
figure That is the strong point, for we
conventionalize that half OF the figure
which person with podgy figure finds it
hardest to manage, or would find it hardest
to manage in costume that made deficien-
cies more apparent
Then do you hold out no hope TO the
dress retormersp
II certainly do really think that this
slightly shortened skirt is a step in the right
direction. Especially as these Boston advo-
| oates are taking the cold edge of the innova-
ton by wearing riding boots that wrinkle
about the ankles. You SEQ people would not
mind exhibiting their ankles if they were
always pretty"
a" Do you mean by this that the general
reluctance is not due to modesty aloneW
"Tm afraid that is exactly what mean.
Now, a woman may show her neck or not,
just as she chooses IL she has a pretty
neck, she shows it whenever she gets
chance. She likes a costume that gives her
the advantage Of this alternative in regard
to other parts OF her anatomy"
II see" was all | could say TO this.
"lf there is any doubt, the majority
want the benefit Of 1t. Now, very hasty
women are more likely to have good
wrist than good ankle. The chances arc
very great against the ankle, especially in
women who have passed middle life, while
the wrist generally retains its slenderness
where IL has ever had slenderness TO start
with. This is why say the riding boot
idea is q good one, and the new movement
may succeed because it is moderate. A
slightly shortened skirt is all the reformers
can expect for long time to come. And yet
IL they succeed in that they have won moro
than half the battle"
What is your own opinion as TO desir
able direction for reform"
81 think that women should adopt a street
costume, what might be called an out Of
door or business costume, without under
taking Co modify indoor or reception gowns.
Let us have freedom aud comfort in the
street and in our outdoor exercises, but let
us hold on to drapery for all occasions when
it Is feasible for us 10 think Of beauty alone.
Lst our reformed gowns confess as little as
possible-not because Tnodesty for
bids any honest display of the
form, but because charity, the
democracy Of social habit, forbids 1t. When
you hear anybody accusing women of false
modesty when they are cautious about
dress changes, you may be certain they do
not understand women. Ask men to wear
knee breeches. Your Apollos will consent
at once Who will hesitate? Who will in
| fiuence the decision Of the majority! The
men who would no longer profit by that
benefit OF the doubt conferred by non-com-
initial trousers
THE RAPID TRANSIT FURoRE.
Since the rapid transit commission pre-
sented its report New York has delighted in
speculations upon the possible realization of
q long cherished dream.
Nk. IL 80 sIra Aah ~