New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-04-05

other SUCCESSFUL pfdctlCdl GUMS uoO "DN"N 80 -
proportions The amount Of seasoning vegetables ana
herbs mentioned in the rule selected would
give a rank flavor OF carots'
onions and celery vegetables which should always DO
used with the greatest care in seasoning Inc urec
tons given for making this soup are lar worse IMAM
the proportions and the result OF ioho"ins Vne"
would certainly DC failure. There arc ho u''0'''nS
for removing the meat from the Dohe' cu'''s ~
pieces removing the superiuOus fat and breaking tne
bone. as these sbon1d he The amateur cook follow
ing these directions would certainly pack her meat
In the pot cover il with water cold luRe"a'h vi
boiling, suited her fancy. ON TINS point aso iio
directions given. It would he very u'"''' w
get any satisfactory result In such case eNon IA ~
water was used, as the nutriment could h'nJ W
drawn out of the inner fbres Of the meat II =" VIZ
not cut up and prepared for the soup pot Inc "l'er
also directs that salt be added at the effect OF
which would be to harden the water and make IL SUI
more difficult to disengaee the nutrtous portions Vi
the meat. The direction that the soup shouu 10
brought slowly to the boiling point is correct oV ~
is because all the should rise and be shIhmea
of before the soup boils bubbles. II the soup Is
skinned after II is brought TO a good boil, az uio
compiler directs. it is never clear.
As to what the compiler calls OF the goinen
rules Of soup-maklng," that water &c be added
after the soup is started 1t is enough 20 say tlat
Goufe at this period Of the soup-making adds cup
of cold water two or three times, when the soup Is
Just on the boiling point" to bring mp the scum.
The most astonishing part Of the directions follows
after boiling the meat for one hour. "add the veg
eables ETC. boil very gently but necessarily for ten
hours, making in all about twelve hours Of cooking
Seven hours is the longest time allowed by practical
cooks or by any OF the authorities quoted for making
this soup. Goufe draws special attention to the bad
results of too long cooking the effect Of when Is 10
natten the flavor and bleach the soup with the hne
which in this length Of cooking is extracted from the
bones. The effect Of cooking vegetables In tine soup
ten hours instead Of one or two hours would be TO
destroy all the dclcacy of flavor obtained from theh'
This is a careless trick Of French chefs however,
and gives the rank favor sometimes noted In consomme
II doubtful whether amateurs in matters OF coohery
for whom this book is written would understand tiat
gentle but incessant boiling means mere simmer
ing rising of bubbles at tie side Of the pot ana no
ebullition in the centre. Yet this is the proper way
to cook SOUP The ordinary process Of gentle boiling
will not draw out the nutriment OF meat as a slo"er
process Of ebullition would.
Among other blunders casually noted is the recon-
mendaton Of the best Florida oranges for lcuy'
Most cooks that the best Florida oranges are OF
no possible value for favOrng. The orange leiy
given on page 468 would result in PALE watery COM
pound stlfened with geatne and favored mildly with
curacao. The Florida orange is the best fruit Of Its
kind for table use because the flavor, which in tne
Mediterranean orange is distributed the pulp and
skim in this orange is concentrated in the pulp The
flavor Of the pulp Of any orange however, Is 81
evanescent that IT is lost in any process OF cooking
and the cook who desires to secure an orange mayor
must depend upon extracting that favor from the
orange peel. The best oranges for favoring, there
FORE are those with the rchesthavored peel the sweet
skinned oranges of Valencia. Even an ordinary
Mediterranean orange Is better for this purpose than
any orange grown on this side Of The ocean. At a
certain time In the autumn when Florida and Jamaica
oranges are selling at 80 and so cents dozen the
few little dried and withered oranges left from the
summer crop of Mediterranean fruit bring in marker
as high % dozen because of the value OF thelr
pceIs to confectioners and fancy cooks.
A practical housekeeper will smile when asked to
grease her pans for bread and loafcake with lard be-
cause "butter blackens the loaf" dust Of flour In
the pan is all that is necessary and lard is certain to
leave coarse flavor behind 1t. Pumpkin cannot be
cooked successfully In thirty minutes, but should be
steamed at least SIX hours The writer does not seem
10 understand that the chcory and endive Of our
markets are the same salad green. Endive IS never
sold by the measure she suggests, but by the head
like lettuce. The French equivalent foC our herb
dandeon is dent-de-lion; IL does not even belong to
the same botanical suborder omcOree savage OF
wild chcory with which it is COMPOUNDED The French
salad herb wild chicOry, is known in our markets as
"barbe du capucn" or graybeard." 1t Is rare
salad herb, but is raised by some French gardeners