The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-06-07
FASHIONS FOR
FASHIONABLE MEN.
What Is Said to Be Stylish for Those
Who Want to Dress We'll.
The Cry Against Knee Breeches-The Little
Derby in Shades of Granite, Mauve and
Havana-outing Wear-Gloves.

The more conservative men of the fash
ionable world pretend to see in this revival
of the models of 1910 in mems wear forth
coming renaissance in short clothes. and
are deeply agitated thereover. There is no
need for alarm, however If that is to be it
will be done with care and upon the best
judgment of the men that control at the
time. There surely was nothing more
kaleidoscOpically picturesque during the
epoch of fuss and feathers than thu average
outing young man of to-day that diSp0rts in
knickerbOckers. The hue and cry against
short clothes does not seem to me to be
disinterested appeal. Scratch an opponent
of knee breaches and you will find person
age with bad legs, take my word for it.
The silk band has been tried again with
success upon the bell-crOwned London hats.
An effort to carry the velvet craze to this
extent has not met with general approval.
Still some Of the heavier swelS that have
dragS affect the velvet band, and it certainly
gives more c0achyfied look TO the wearer.
The little sauare-topped characterless
type of derby in shades of granite, mauye
and Havana has already been done to
death. 1t had that pretifed sporting look
calculated to catch the eye Of the early
buyers and now every gambler, book
vance agent has one and literally revels In
the possession.
1t will be noticed that the new long top
coats while they have a pleat down each
SIDE seam, indicating skirt effect, have no
buttons upon the waist line OF the back. In
place thereof there is a triangle done in
self color silk. | long ago advocated the
abolition of the two little DulPS-eye but
tons. They are there for no purpose; they
are not decorative. They simply mean that
once upon 4 time when men wore swords
and square cut coats the skirts were Tapped
back with tapes that attached to these but
tons.
THE BELL-CROWNED HAT
Has even been initiated in the opera hat.
and in this shape the opera hat can be made
much more durable, owing to the peculiar
formation of the springs.
The outing season promises in all its de-
tails to be comparatively unconstitutional.
The tOggery provided for the summer
youth. while bright and picturesque, in no
phase transcendS the bounds of prODriety
in color or design.
This naturally means a more universal
popularity than ever of the outing stuffS,
fer there were those that under the lurid
regime of past seasons hestated in adopting
the vogue at that time for fear OF being too
conspicuous.
The outing-maniac is, of course, rrepres-
sible. be Will revel in his panoramic idlOcy
i'll spite of all the safeguards of the fashion,
trainers. He Will get his vari-colOred and
binding color effects, if he has to get them
made to order out of different pieces of
fabrics.
But he will be the exception, and he will
be harmless and humOre5que in his isolated
pTe-eminemce.
The promoters of outing wear have not
forgotten that the slab pavements of the big
cities reflect the heat of summer time with
greater warmth than the sands Of the sea-
shore, and there is no tempering breeze to
make life easier To endure. Tney have re-
membered the GOODNESS Of the fabrics that
may only be worn out of town, and have
furnished quiet designs in blue. gray and
brown in tropical weights suitable and salts
factory for town wear.
THE DREssY wAIsTCOAT.
The washable waistcoats that come in
many well-chOsen designs will be worn with
the coats and trousers. They may be worn
with the cheviot, but not the flannel shirts.
Ii 1t is so warm that the flannel shirt must
be dOnned for comfort il is too warm to add
the weight of
Never a made-up tie under any eonsidera-
ton with the neglige shirt
The dog-skin looSe-ftting tan shades are
preferable when one goes out for stroll.
The new gray gloves of undressed kids
are better adapted-indeed, they are just
the ''prOpah capah"-fOr the morning we'd
ding, afternoon calls or any formal day time
function.
The coat shirt-a most sensible deviation
out of the Tut of custom-is coming aud
coming strong.
The big neckwear Of the coming season.
the AScots, De JOinvilles and four in-hands
must be in the lighter silken crepes and
pOngeeS. The heavier satins and silks seem
ungainly when the mercury is above 500.
Nor can commend the big upholstered,
cumbersome bows for the same reason. A
wide cravat of color giving a fitting cap
and climax to the entire ensemble-a grsna-
dine windsor arranged in languid flowery-
end butterfly effect, or light surah neglige
Once-oyer knot seem the choice neck-dresS-
ings of the summer interim.-Clothirr and
har