The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1891-05-16

two or more supports. It must hang by
one end, the other end swinging freely in
order that it may be straight and properly
cured.
1t is on the tip or third joint of rod that
much of the effective action depends. For
this joint no wood is so good as lancewOod,
and this may be bought cheaply enough.
The next best is greenheart, piece of
which may be purchased almost anywhere,
If the wood itself does not grow in the
neighborhood. In default of BOTH red
cedar must be used, or one must buy a
bamboo pole out of which to make the two
upper joints. | wouid, however, urge that
piece of lancewood be purchased, even if
ii is somewhat hard to raise the necessary
dollar. Hickory is Of no Use whatever.
Having secured the wood and thoroughly
seasoned 1t, the making Of the rod begins
Each piece or part must be 4015 inches long
allowing inches for the lap. The dimen-
sons of the butt are: Small end, 81 inch
diameter; grip or hand piece, l-l6 inches
diameter and S inches long; reel seat l
inch diameter and inches long; small end
at base of lap, y inch diameter. The best
way to get the rod right is to mark out in
plank the shape of each piece. Then as
the piece itself is worked down with the
plane, and at the last with fine sandpaper
and a file, keep constantly measuring it
with pair of calipers. In drawing it on
the board use n straight edge for the lines,
as this will give the exact taper.
The middle Joint should be 4615 inches
long, to give inches for lap at each end.
The measurements inside the two laps are:
Large end, 7-16 inch diameter; small end,
17-64 inch diameter. The tip is 40l5 inches
long. Diameter, large end, inside lap, =
inch; diameter, small end, 3-32 inch.
To make the laps, mark off a straight
line running from one side to the other Of
the piece, marking along the SIX inches al
lowed. Cut this through with a tine saw,
and file or sandpaper down until the laps,
when put together, lit fiat against each
other. These laps are beveled ends, and
they must be so made that when the rod
is dashed together II is straight.
NOu will need guides for the line Take
piece of brass wire as thick as the knit
ting needle used on yarn socks. Anneal
ii to get 1t soft, and then wrap it twice
around a small lead pencil, making the
rings touch each other. Turn the ends at
right angles to the rings and cut them half
an inch long. Then hammer them fat.
Two of these guides are wanted for the
middle piece and tip and one for the butt
To make the tip ring shape your wire in
the same way, but leave legs two inches
long TO it. 1t must look like d hairpin
with a double ring at top, and the legs
must be crossed under the rings. Flatten
them also These guides and tip are dashed
on-with waXed silk or linen thread, and of
course they must all be IN line.
\ piece of good cord is used TO lash the
parts together when the rod is wanted
This must be put on strongly, and if the
lap faces are rubbed with wax sometimes
the rod Will be flrmer One of these dashed
rods has truer spring than one made with
metal ferules, and the best salmon rods are
always dashed. The whole rod should be
thoroughly oiled once a month at least,
and should always be kept in a dry place.
The reel must be purchased, but one may
be got made of wood for little money. II
can be dashed on the reel seat. The line
must be bought, and the hooks, leaders
and gut also. This part of tie outfit, how