Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-10-31

| kNOR THE LAST FIFTY YEARS THE RE
port has existed that far up the GRAND
river N Labrador fall had been found WHO'S
size far surpassed that Of Niagara, II not that Of
any waterfall in the world known to men. Thi.
report was obscure, but not less 90 than the
knowledge possessed by the generality OF meu
concerning the Grand river ITSELF On the best
maps Labrador was little more than q name
within an irregular shore limo, and one sought
In vain for any river having a known course
and direction. Such q rumor, however
baseless as it very likely would prove te
be, was enough to grouse the curiosity and
challenge the enterprise of men interested
In the progress Of geographical knowledge
and last February Mr.. H. G. Bryant of Phil
adelphia conceived the plan of spending a sum.
mer In tanning il possible what sort of river
the so-called Grand river might be and whether
| the falls of Niagara and other known cataracts
| OF renown must take an inferior rank among
the wonders of the world. He associated with
himself, In the capacity Of geographer and gen.
eral scientific assistant Mr.. C. A. Kenaston OF
| q considerable period in the exploration of the
Canadian northwest and was qualified for a
| Journey OF discovery in northern regions OF
| difficult access.
THE START MADE IN JUNE.
Procuring letters Of introduction from prom
inent officials, both in the United States and
| the Dominion Of Canada. to the Representatives
OF the Hudson Bay Company in Labrador, and
obtaining canoe and suitable instruments,
with the endorsement OF the geological survey
pureau OF the government. on June % last they
set sail from New York for St. Johns New
foundland. Thence they made their way in a
coastlng steamer, after vexatious delay to Rigo-
lot, Hamilton Inlet, on the coast of Labrador
This point is about fifty miles from the sea-
coast, In latitude "a deg. 30 min. 1t is the site
| OF the principal trading post Of the Hudson
Bay Company in the country.
here obtaining small schooner Of some
half dozen tons burden and the services of two
men to navigate her, they made their way in
land, up the inlet in a sou thwesterly direction.
through the broad extension called Melville
lake to Northwest river, a subsidiary trading
post, distant from the mouth of Grand river
about twenty miles and from Rigolet about 100
contrary to their expectation and dosire they
found 1t impossible to secure Indian guides and
Doatmen, and after few days determined TO
make the attempt to ascend the river, with the
help OF Scotchman, John Montague by name
resident OF the region. employed for twenty
years In hunting, trapping and fishing. and q
young Esquimaux whom they had fallen in
with on their way north.
A oLISKER-BurLr BOAT.
They borrowed a boat at the post, preferring,
since no Indian boatman could be obtained a
clinker-built boat, such a white men are more
familiar with and such as would be steadier in
rough water than the birch bark canoe which
Is the native means OF transportation. This
and the Rushton canoe brought from New York
Ctowed astern of the boat) furnished convey
ance for the men and their outfit OF camp
equipage, instruments and provisions. Some
times sailing. the boat being equipped with
mn fa and o..
mainsall. sometimes rowing. more often track
ing up the rapid river. they advanced slowly
toward the interior. The river is more than a
mile in breadth at it's mouth, where it enters
Goose bay, the upper end of Melville lake, and
soon 1t widens to much more, in places meas
uring not less than two miles, These lower
reaches abound in sandbars Of great extent and
the channels are constantly changing The
shores are not high. wholly OF sand, and
are covered with thick growth OF small frs,
interpreted with little birch. Only in these
lower portions are any indications to be seen
OF a flood plain.
FINE DOUBLE FALL.
At a distance of about TWENTY-FIVE miles
from the mouth of the river the stream pours
over ledge of rocks, forming n fine waterfall
some thirty feet high, below which is a second
fall OF equal proportions. This double fall is, Of
course, impossible and portage had to be
made. With a block and tackle the heavy boat.
emptied of its contents, was hauled up the
steep ascent about 2S0 feet to the top whence it
was dragged about two-thirds of mile through
the forest to be lowered again to the river
above the falls, while the canoe and the
rest OF the outfit in packages were conveyed
across on the shoulders of the men. This cata-
ract, known as the Muskrat Falls, anywhere
else would be considered beautiful and inn
pressive object and il is well worth going far to
see, but the expectation of greater glorIes fur
tber In the interior, II the voice of rumor should
prove true. urged the party forward and for
twenty-seven dayr they pressed on through a
totally unnhabited wilderness, in a constant
struggle with an almost impossible river.
SIX SEPARATE SYSTEMS OF RAPIDS.
No less than six separate systems of fierce
rapids Of great height had to be encountered
and overcome before the head of canoe nayiga-
ton was reached. The labor was very great
and the exposure and peril were constant. but
fortunately no disaster or accident occurred.
At the foot Of rapid, up which the boats could
not be dragged by the tracking line and around
which they could not be carried, the party
made a permanent camp, and, leaving the
Esquimaux in charge. they took the canoe and
a scanty supply OF provisions, blankets and
instruments and made portage over what is
known among the HudsonBay Company trappers
end voyagers as the big Hill," about 800 feet
high and sleeper than the roof of a house, the
long disused trail obstructed by fallen trees
and loose boulders, which rendered the footing
insecure and dangerous in the extreme.
Thence, through forests and over barrer. tracts
where the only vegetation il the newt
able moss on which the caribou deer feeds
traversing no less than hxif q dozen lakes and
making the intervening pOrtages, the party Of
three made their wey eventually to the Great
Falls, OF whose reality they had become as
sured few days previous by seeing from the
top high mountain the vapor OF the falling
v alter rising against the western sky at the dis
lance of some thirty or thirty-fivs miles.
MAGNIFICENT SCENE.
Having given no credence to the exaggerated
statements Of the Indians relative to its won
derful height and volume, they yet were as
tonished at the magnificencs and grandeur of
what they found In the midst Of the uutracked
solitudes, practically unseen Of human eve. the
great river comes down from the far interior
in broad and rapid stream, which, sweeping
around In great curve, is contracted
by the walls OF archean rock be-
tween which 1t flows throughout its en-
tire course, and rushes over q series of preci-
pices, four in number, with great rapids above
and between, contracting more and more a. il
proceeds, until 1t rushes through . chute not
more than fifty or sixty yards broad with such
awful force and speed that the water iscro wded
up In the middle Of the stream far above its
sides, and with leapings and mad rushings and
sPurts high into the air, as il In torture, the
white wster, with glimpses Of green and black
shining through, races down a slope Of about
thirty degrees to the final plunge into the
canyon 800 feet below, with roar that is deaf
ming.
suRoISo BELLOWS OF WHITE FOAM AND vApoR.