davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
THOSE VELVET COLLARS.
They Are Not Put on Qyercoats by Tailors
Any More.

They Are Not Put on Qyercoats by Tailors
Any More.
The velvet collar ON mems overcoats was
as inevitable feature few years ago of
dress as the buttons on the back of cut
away coat. But in the last two or three
years that fashion has gone out to remark
able degree. The omparatively old
fashioned velvet collar Of a decade ago
is quite extinct now. This was an entirely
velvet collar, and when the collar was
turned up nothing but the velvet touched
the skin. Now where the velvet has been
used recently it has been in the form of a
half-collar, and the lower half Of the turn
was ornamented in this.
1t was very rare few years ago to see a
melton 0vercoat without velvet collar, but
last year the coats were made almost en-
tirely Of the one cloth, and the exceptional
case was that of the use OF velvet The rea-
son OF this change is as much one OF clean
illness as any other. The turned-up collar
came into contact with the hair of the head.
As everybody's hair has some natural oil,
and nearly everybody uses some sort of
prepared hair lubricant, the velvet became
greasy and lost lis texture. And about the
drtiest thing in the world is greasy velvet.
Embellishments.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
81. ReoujsIte. to populari.y.

Six things are necessary tor the girl who
would be popular. Without them she is i'm
perfectly equipped. They are:
A musical voice.
A pretty laugh with sound of real mirth
in IL.
Small white hands which are so well
formed that they look better without rings
than with them.
An upright, graceful carriage.
A charming poise OF the head.
A pretty line about the chin and The ear
N. Y. Commercial.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

and for seven centuries have been famous
in Yorkshire annals. The marriage of
Thomas, the careless fifth Lord Fairfax,
with daughter Of Lord Colepepper was the
beginning of the disintegration Of the Fair
fax fortunes, for her improvidence and ex-
travagance not only embarrassed her hus-
band, but after his death in ITO she ruined
her son, the sixth Lord, while he was still
in his minority. This gentleman ON arriving
at maturity found himself Impoverished by
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
pointed king-at-arms consists of the follow
ing seductive advertisement:

pointed king-at-arms consists of the follow
ing seductive advertisement:
DERSONAL-AR AND CRESTS FOUND;
pedigree traced; correctness guaranteed. j.
MATTHEWS. $50 Jackson blvd. Connected with
the Herald's College.
Not many years ago prominent Ameri-
can gentleman, whose family name is the
same as Earl Manners. was resident in Lon
don. and had his carriage panels decorated
with the Earl's arms, supporters. crest and
coronet, and even adopted his LOrdship's
family lveres. This proceeding occasioned
many ludierous mistakes in public parks
and streets. and the gentleman was re-
from his carriage the symbols he had erro-
ueouslY adopted, but as he became stubborn
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
THE CRAZE
FOR CRESTS.
Iml0StuTGS Practical Upon People Who
Are Angl0ManiaCS.
Only One Man in America Entitled to Coat
of-Arms-Crests Forbidden to Women
Entirely-0f- Color Nobility.

Every days experience affords proof that
successful imposlure. provided it be supreme
~ audacious and extravaganza, is plant
OF perennial growth, and one Of the hardest
sort, says the Chicago Tribune. For some
time past temporary resident of Chicago
has been reaping harvests of dollars by first
exciting aud afterward gratifying the vanity
of those possessing more money than brains.
The web woven by this spider self-ap-
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
FASHION REPEATS ITSELF.
The Fete Gown Of 1871 Compared With the
Same Garment Of 1891.

The wheel of Dame Fashions roulette
has given another spin, and our charming
interlude of simplicity in dress is inter-
rupted with coquettiSh curves and bunchy
innovations. Skirts pucker up in erratic
and unexpected places, sleeves take on new
and stupendous forms, paniers prevail. and
the trail of the founce is over it all. The
rage for lace shows no sign of abating,
though confined to indoor costumes, and
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

MD, eleventh Lord Fairfax of Cameron, a
Sc tch peer without a seat in Parliament.
This gentleman, now resident at N0rthamp-
ton, Badensburg, Prince George County,
Md, was born at VaucIuse, Fairfax County,
Va, September 13, 1880, succeeded his
brother. the tenth Baron, A pril 4, 1869, mar
ried October s. 1857, Mary, daughter of Col
onel Edmund Kirby, U. ). A., and has two
sons and five daughters, all unmarried.
The Fairfaxes are al ancient Saxon fam
iIy, renowned in chronicle, song and story,
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

colonies. issued decree in council attaint-
ing and FORGETTING all honDrs of any nature
in the colonies. and this decree also pro-
vided that any English subject who might
hereafter expatriate himself in the trans
Atlantic territories forfeited for himself
and his descendants each and every honor.
AS the sovereign is the fountain from which
every honor, decoration and privilege pro-
ceeds, the legality and decisiveness of
the decree is unqueStionable. Like every
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

one else Washington lost his eoat-of-arms,
which he probably never regretted. The
Washington symbols we're:
Arms-Yert (ereen), lion rampant argent silver
within border gobonate or (goid) and azure
(blue).
Crest-Out OF a ducal coronet or an eagle wings
addorsed sable tblack).
Motto-Exitus Acta Probat. THE end Iustifes the
deed.
As already stated, only one American citi-
zen possesses the right to British armorial
bearings, and that is John Contee Fairfax.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

Hash Wasted, but the Effect Was Grand.
A boy who is at boarding school in Mas
sachusetts where each pupil is required to
perform some sort of work about the school
sends the following description of an inter-
esting incident to n boy friend III this city:
My work thisterm Is waiting on two tables
in the dining-hall. There are about twenty
tables in all. You don't know how graceful
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

is supplemented in one case with tiny rib
bons of palest yellow, caught in little fnt-
tering bows, and rich, lustrous silk shading
to gray and silver like the willow branches
as they sway in the sunshine. The other is
finished with a heavy velvet bodice of the
same narrowing hue as the skirt, embroid-
cred everywhere with gtittering golden
threads. The broad hat sweeps In gracious
curves OF beauty about one fair face and
ties in uncompromising curves about the
other. Finally, note the outlines of tile two
figures, aud see how much nearer, even with
all her protuberances, the girl of 1891 APP
proaches the honored Greciau vase model
than the Noah's ark wooden woman of 1871.
and never say again that the world is not
growing better.-N. Y. Sun.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

-~The people Of California ars engaged In an
enterprise to introduce foreign song birds.
The first to propose the scheme was Mr..
Horace f. Cutter, who urged it in the San
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
Not So Peaceful as We Seem.

1--WE are supposed to be peaceful ma
tion," writes Colonel Theodore A. Dodge,
the well-known authority on military sub
jecls, in the October Forum. but we have had
our fair share Of strife. foreign and domestic.
Since the Revolution there have been wars
with England and with Mexico with Triroli
and with Algiers; broils with Paraguay and
Corea, and a gigantic civil war; rumOrs of
wars with France, England, Spain and Italy.
There have been the John Brown raid, the
Barn-burner and Fpnian raids to Canada,
many incursions across the Mexican border,
and the filibustering expeditions to Cuba
and Nicaragua. We have had the Whisky
and Shays rebellions; the election, draft,
railroad, reconstruction and sundry serious
city riots; we have had well on to two hun
dred deadly Indian fights and many awful
massacres. We have lost more men in ac-
tive war since 1776 than any nation of Eu-
rope. This is startling record for peace
full people"
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

particularly to those designed for evening
wear. Trianon and Charlotte Corday fichus,
chemisetttes and collarettes of all nation
alities, unlined y0kes, and pelerines, all of
lace, are striking features of dreSSy gowns.
Revival rather than invention is the d0mi-
mating principal OF the change, but in the
revival is made apparent, despite the crlti-
cism of tie cyncs, evidence Of even truer
and purer artistic feeling. Colors are more
eXquisitely in accordance with natures
dyes and their combinations are more har-
monous and pleasing. Materials are finer
and more beautiful in texture, particularly
those of the cheaper varieties, and revived
modes have lost in reproduction much of
their inartistic eccentricity and are subdued
into accordance with practical as well as
picturesque requirements.
Contrast the two gowns in the cuts, repre-
sentative modes of periods between
which a hundred years have interviewed.
Both are fete gowns of the same material
soft, beautiful mOusseline de sole. Both are
green in color, but the green of the Que is
the green of the willow, soft sheeny and
delicate-a dream of green. restful to the
eye. The other is a hard. vivid. aggressive,
grass green, which is effective in the way of
grass and meadow dressing, but it is not cal
eulated to bring out the delicate beauty of
fair woman's colOring and charm. The
beautiful thin material, which is so fine and
soft that dress pattern may be drawn
through wedding ring without crumpling.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
Pictures Of all the Presidents from
Washington to Harrison.
1T ALSO GIVES IN BRIEF:

The History Of Colonial Politics.
The History OF Revo utionary Politics.
The History Of the Confederation.
The History Of the U. S. Government BY Con.
gressss.
The History Of the q. S BY Administrations
An Analysis of the Federal Government.
Valuable Statistics on Debts.
valuable Statistics on Revenues.
Vausbe Statistics on Expenditures.
Issues of all Political Parties
The History of all Political Parties which hlys
existed in this country.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

An Elizabeth IN. j. man is In a precari-
Gus condition from mosquito bite on the
hand. His arm is swollen its entire length,
and he suffers great pain. His physician
says IL is blood poisoning. aud one Of the
most peculiar cases he ever met with
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

Ten torpedoes, costing $4,000. were lost
in the late British maneuyers.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11

There are 2,OS4 sos hogs in Kansas await
ing transportation to Germany.
The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1891-10-11
Latest Edition Corrected TO Date.
46x66 Inches Largest Ever Printed,
THIS DOUBLE MAP CONT AINS:

a Diagram showing all of the Political Par
ties. 11x66.
A Diagram showing all the Presidents and
Cabinets 5x66.
A Diagram showing the Political Complexion
OF each Congress. 2x66.
A Diagram showing the Creeis Of the World
A Disg gram showing the Standing Armies OF
each Nation. 13xl0.
A Diagram showing the Naval Tonnage OF
each Nation. 13x10.
A Complete Man of the World 1890.
a Comp etc Man OF the United States (Rani
McNslv & Co.'s 1890. 1896.
Mp Of Central America. l0x13.
A Map of Alaska. 10xlS
Map Of South Africa. 10x13.
A Map Of Upper Nubia and Habesh or Abys-
sinia. 10x13.
a Map of Persia, Afghanistan and B,luohi,-
tan. 1Ox13
Complete Map of the Soar system-bsst ever
male. 13x10.
, 1891-06-27
aTHE RyISo
Is published Ererl

"Wednesday 60 Saturday
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g dollars per annurn, payable ~halEyearly
single Copies to non.subscribers 8 cents.
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the HUie are required to give 8 months notice.
Terms OF AClvert1S1nE,
approved by Government 95th June
FT an advertisement of q lines or under, L to q inser.
Small Type Broyier) l to 9 linos.... $1,Q999
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Over g lines, pr. line OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES ~
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For one to three subsequent insertions the halt amount OF
these charges will be made.
ny All advertisements for insertion must be delivered at
this Office on Tuesdays e Fridays not later than
IN O'Clock p. m. The postage on letters 10
M. OF ce from " est End Or St. Thomas must be prepaid
or no notice will be taken of them.
Fg Special Contracts will be made with parties who may
e. wisLful to advertise yearly, halfyearly, or quarterly
II Contributors-We cannot pay any attention
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ti,p. hut as an evidence Of authenticity, and for our own
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CON nunication is inserted, the editor does not therefore
nrcrssari v agree with the opinions expressed by the writer
We cannot undertake to return nor preserve rejected maui
scripts. Manuscript matter must oe written ohIl ON one
aide OF the papei'
Inn ppINTlNE executed at this Ohtco with ueatnos'
5UH lhANliNu and despatch
, 1891-06-27

Washington City, May 28-The President
to-day received a dispatch from Minister Lin
coin at London, saying official notice had been
given in the Commons that a bill would
be introduced to authorize the Queen
to prohibit British subjects from TAX
ing seals in s. Behring Sea. The question
engaged the Presidents principal attention
to-day, and he had conferences with the cabinet.
One point considered was the adyisability of
sending war vessels to Behring's Sea to re-
inforce revenue cutters in preventing the TAX
IN Of seals in case a closed season is decided
upon. This feet would, of course, cooperate
with the English war ships now IN these waters
in the enforcement of the agreement as
concluded. It is understood the secretary Of
til navy reported that there are three naval
vessels that could be prepared for this service
without much elay.-FictOr'o Colo"'8t.
, 1891-06-27

Az EASY SOLUTION The Northwestern Ne
chanic is responsible for the following: A
man who wanted to learn what profession he
would have his son enter, put him in a room
with a Bible, an apple, and a dollar bill. If
he found him, when he returned, read
ing the Bible, he would make a clergyman
out of him; if eating the apple, q farmer; and
if interested in the dollar bill, a banker.
When he did return. he found the boy sitting
on the Bible with the dollar bill in his pocket
and tho apple almost devoured. He made a
politician out of him.-Scientifc American
Tuas 1854 1891.
, 1891-06-27
THE KNELLER PROCESS.
from the Louisiana Plonter)

The Kneller process of making open train
sugars at low temperature, con corning which
we gave our readers some data last year, has
been again quite successful, and The Planter"
is promised a full account of the seasons
work shortly.
Mr. H. Boon of St. Kits, writes 'The
Planter that the Kneller process about doubled
the net returns of the sugar estate wherein
it was adopted this past season. The polaris-
copic test of the sugar has been raised from
Sc deg to 95 5lo deg. The increase in yield
has been 30 per cent. e., 1900 gallons of
cane juice gave by the common process 1906
pounds Of sugar and the Kneller process
makes it yield 23Oo pounds. The molasses
from the common process sugars could not
be economically reboiled for second sugars,
while that resulting from the Kneller process
gave up nearly all its sugar testing 80 deg.
10 SO deg. Only 60 pounds of sugar per
1900 gallons of liquor remained unaocount-
ed for.
, 1891-06-27
PrOklama.

let bekjendtgi6res herved. at Telegrafist
~ JOHN WATT under 12te dennes har OPP
givet sit Bo til Skiftebehandling som fallit.
ALE og Enhver som MATTE have NoSet at
fordre i bemeldte Bo, indkaldes horved med
3 Maaneders Yarsol til at anmeldo og bovislig.
gj6re deres Kray for undortegnedo Skiftoret,
der behandler Boet.
St. Thomp S@lifteret, d,l lode ,Tunj 1891.
SCHULTZ,
est.
Telegram-herald., 1891-12-06

insAaIty seems ~ oe feapsug hsfsese
OF helpless victims the worid over.
Neaf y every day bold heAdlinss an,
nounee the acts OF desperation, blood
shed Il crime perIstratsd Iy mes
and wo4aen whose minus are repuied
~ be unbalanced. The asyluns are
daily receiving these nei.t.i wrecks,
and lrstu most OF them, tue cly 'mole
room ssues. Why this wonderful M
cleasef What n cause OF this mind
desiruetiour N,se mea yield TO its
hatei al spell; delicate women, refined
aud beautiful, suceumb To its awful
Visitation. IL e sters the home OF cul-
ture anu wealth. aud drsgs into semi
darkness the brightest ornament of the
treslde. Its te.itacles reach down iuto
The haun's OF poverty and grasplng the
sufferer bring him forth into light
where his palld lace and CLASSY eyes
present u picture of abject vacuity. 1t
stalks iIt) the church aud wrrsts the
preacher from his pulpit; il enters the
banking .ffiees anu CLAIMS the vars al
age OF the trusted cashier; II goes intu
the court and fIon bench and bar
huris the brightest minds into
the darkness of despair aud leayes
them groyeling in the oblivion
Of mental confusion. None escape
It's awful greed for mind--it
demands the brains of men and women
AID securing them compels the p r.
fornance OF acts that bring ruin 10
happy homes and disgrace 10 LOVING
friends. Feeding upon the fraItIes
and miseries OF m n, its app, 10 is
whetted by indulgence. 1t seeks its
prey With relentless determination.
Either our social system is permeated
with the virus Of lunacy, or else We
| have cultivated the more sensitive
organs of the brain lcyond their en-.
durance. Grief, joy, excitement. dis
appointment, anxiety, failure. triumph,
sickness. remorse. all play important
parts in unseating the reason. The
spectacle of . human being once en-
dowed with reason vainIy pursuing an
hal!nclnatIon, persistentiy struggling to
accomplish an act inspired 10y brain
reeiing with the blurred and confused
passions OF love, hate or revenge, is 9
pitltul one.
Telegram-herald., 1891-12-06
THAT STREET EXTENSION.

The West Fulton street extension-it
can not be classed as an Improvement
still remains bone of contention be-
tween the council and the petitioners.
Weeks have passed and in spite of all
the inquiries no good reason has been
given Why the bluff should be cut
through. To be sure they say, "We
want TO open up the territory beyond
the biuff," but h.,w will it do it? The
territory mentioned will be left hang
ing in the air at height varying from
So to 6S feet. For that reason the OPEN
ing would be Intellectual unless the res
ldents in prospectu were provided with
parachutes. The only possible hope OF
advantage would be the diverting of
travel from the Butterworth road to
West Fulton street, and it is hardly
likely that the scattering farmers who
reside cn that thoroughfare and Its
tributaries would ascend long hill for
the purpose of descending into the city
on grade of nearly eight per cent.
The proposed cut would make ali ex-
cellent toboggan slide for winter sport
but it would work incalculsble damage
to the owners of abutting property
throughout the distance. No actual
advantage can be logically maintained
and the altitude of the agitators is like
that of small boy who sees green
apple on lofty bough-he wants it if
il kills him within an hour.
Telegram-herald., 1891-12-06
National Dotare Omcers.

At the annual meeting OF Assembly
No. Is, National Doiare held Friday
evening, the following officers were
elected:
President-Fred II. Hosford.
ce-Presldent-Geo. +. Judd.
Past Presidsnt-Campbell Fair, D. D.
Speaker-Mrs. +. II. Hosford.
Secretary-Haryey b. Bxter.
Coilector--Charles B. Hooker.
Treasurer-David Z. Uhi.
Marshall-Eugene NJ. Huston.
Warden-Mrs. 4. NJ. Huston.
Guard-Chas. +. Stratton.
Sentry-O. D. Averill.
Trustees-Campbell Fair d. D., Cor
nelius J.. Harvey, Fred IL. H0sfOrd
Jay D. UtieY, Neil Mailuy.
Telegram-herald., 1891-12-06
NOT PARALLEL CAsEs

It Is urged that Chill is justified in
Ignoring the demands made by this
government for reparation for the out
rage perpetrsted at Valparaiso upon
American sailors under the precedent
made by the United States in the
Mstian affair. 1t should be borne in
mind that the Mafisn incident is still.
matter of diplomatic consideTa. ion,
and that while this government has
m lde it, attitude u,sic, the settlement
has not yet been arrived at 1t should
also be borne in mind that even If the
Msfian incident werc settIed, il Is in no
sense a parallel case to the Gillian out
rage. In the former case number of
Itaiiaps sought refuge in this country.
bringing with them the VOWS and
obi cations of secret society of which
they we're members in their native
country. Most of them either became
citizens OF this country or declsred
their intention so to do, and by those
acts renounced all allegiance to their
former sovereig n While stilI IN this
country they plotted in secret Mafisn
conclAve to kill, and did kill, an Of
ficer OF the law. Fer this they were
tried under the laws, to which
by the concurrence If all nations,
they were amensble whether citizens
or not. That trial resulted IN
Whist was believed to be . m.sarr age
of justice. Indignant citizens. con-
trary TO law and against the power OF
The police. stormed the prison in which
the accused were confined and wreaked
upon them the veneence they had ex-
pected the Iaw would command. The
n,ob was, and 10 ssnswerable 10 the laws
Of the country, and Italy has no more
right to demand repara,ion than Eng
land would have for an injury to one of
her subjects who is . naturslixed citizen
of this country. In the Chsisn affair The
circumstances are distinctly different.
fnodsnding ssslors entered the city Of
vslpsfsi0 under the protection Of the
Amerieas nsg They did not pretend
10 reside there. nor did they Offer Va
suit 70 the constituted suthori,ies.
The Chihsa soldisry snfsmed by Drs.
iudice. suspseson snd hatred %
Amerears. s.aalsed TIE ssilors, with
cut preyocatson, and killed and
wsunded several of them. TIE attack
sss unlsstissbis and . brssea Of ths
treaty OF peace sod good ~ill in force
t~swesa the twe Toveramsnts In 90
srsse q thr rrlston Of TIE 80 eases
sueA sh.t cAsli esa predicate 10 rsfassi
Telegram-herald., 1891-12-06

A BEAUrIyuL woman, wife of a. re-
.sscted citizen of Evznsvilie, ind. be-
anle infatuated with . negro 4 few
ears ago and deserted her husband
nd two children To eonsort WITH her
usky paramour. The husband tired
. reclaim her, but fare aud hs then
ecnTed a divorce. A few cas- ago the
@omzn returned To Evansville. aud 20
ng TO pubic school stole the two ehll
.ren and spirited them away. The
althless wife not only e ilr ''all the
glory from her husba. ds hfe"
shen she fed with the negro,
ut she burdeaed him with =
/ al OF humillatlon that would crush
ne pride and ambition out OF most any
nan. Now she mas added to the IN
fending mans misery by stealing MS
mo children. Isis n0I alssy, The man
who is deserving of censure for faith
Iessness. Many times the woman goes
10 depths OF depravity from which man
will shrink IN horror.