The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-02-15

bad roads to be traversed on
horse or mule back and La Raya to cross
the highest ridge in all the journey, where
winds are strongest and storms are inces-
SAINT. This first day is by far the hardest
of the entire trip, as much because one is
not yet used to it, as because the road is in
comparably worse; and at all hazards one
must reach Aguas Calientes before night
fall To the right of lofty, snow-clad
mountain named Vilacanota one follows
for some miles and finally fords a small
water course, which seems to rise in one Of
the hot springs so numerous in the locality,
and which Peruvians regard as the mother
spring of the great Amazonas river sys
TEN. The little stream which here takes
the name of the nearby mountain, is
known as the Chalca farther on, and after
wards as the Uruhamba. Many miles
further northward, having gained much
strength and volume, it joins the Rio
Tambo, and their united waters form the
famous Ucageli, the largest of Peru's tribu-
taries to the Amazons
The second night out one is booked to
sleep at the village OF. Licuain, ride of
only eighteen miles, through charming
scenery. There is possible drawbacks
however, in the Licuain river which must
be forded several times and is likely to be
rather high. There is a road on the left of
it, but travellers are
WARNED TO TAKEeTo THE WATER
instead, for there are vast swamps on that
side, with quicksands treacherous enough
TO engulf an army; and peSided one must
pass through the unfenced hacienda of An
tacucca, which is celebrated far and wide
for its wild cattle. Nobody goes over that
dangerous road if he can avoid it, there
being no place of refuge should he be at
tackled by the uorros. Fancy party of
United States tourists, including two
women, riding peaceably along on mule
back, when a herd of wild bulls came
charging full tilt upon them, and not wall,
or tree, or bush to hide behind. In the vi
entity of the hot springs (Aguas Calientes)
there are acres of plump mushroom, and
no passer-by whose palate has been prop
erly educate will fail to secure supply for
his evening meal, whether he takes it at
the tambo, or, as we did in the hospitable
home of Don Pablo (PauD Meiias.
The third night one sleeps at ''Tinta, p
hacienda owned by an educated Italian,
Senior Don Francisco MascioJta, who is
sure to give the pilgrim hearty welcome.
The road thereto lies through an ancient
Indian village called Raccha. built within
the crater of an extinct volcano. Among
other curiosities, it contains a remarkable
wall. which is said to be the remains of the
palace built by an Indian prince, eldest son
of Tupac Yupangui, who revolted against
| paternal rule and here maintained his indie
! pendence. Near it is one of the many
small round towers so frequently found in
| this part. of Peru, which are believed to
have been astronomical observatories
wherein the Incas determined the meridian
passage of the sun.
ON THE FOURTH DAY
one may take leisurely iaunt of only fif
| teen miles, to Checacupe, where he will bt
tin Alvarez, who is a regular king in his
little world-a large landed proprietor, g
member OF Congress and wealthy WOO
merchant. There are yet forty miles tt
| Cuzco, and rapid rider could accomplish
that distance in one day; but what is the
use of firing ones self when it is so mucf
more comfortable to take things easily
One better go only half the way, say tt
| Quiguiiana, though it is miserable little
hamlet with but one redeeming features
remarkable old bridge. Unless one has
! letter to- the. cure, and that itinerant in
dividual happens, by rare good fortune, tt
be at home the night must be passed
among the bugs and other pests of
wretched post-house.
| CNext morning one is glad to take an earl,
start for Huaroe, twelve miles away, anC
the casa of the local magnate, who re
joices under the high-sounding name o
Senior Don Fructuoso Eguiletas. We wen
out of the way few miles to view tn
little lake called Urcos, famous in Peruvian
tradition for being the burial place of tina
great
| GOLD CHAIN OF THE INCA HUASCAR.
We read that the celebrated chain wa
long enough to encircle the grand Plaz
Mayor of Cuzco, and that every link of
was as heavy as strong mali could carry
all of pure gold. Of course the story i
nonsense; nevertheless we spurred GU
beasts to the perilous brink and faithful
tried to believe that we saw bold shinin
through the dark waters. No secure
hiding-place for heavy treasure could b
found, because the lake has bottom of I'm
fathomable ooze, which speedily swall ow
anything thrown into it, and affords n
footing for divers.
Twelve miles beyond is Zucre hacienda
where the traveller is advised to stop owe
night. This very fine estate, a mile or tw
from the village of Oropesa, belongs to tn
Garmendia family and includes a clot
mandatory. Only twelve miles beyon
Oropesai is Cuzco, in the midst of a tropics
valley. After leaving the highlands tn
weather grows warm and warmer: pare
queJs and monkeys, palms and figtrees al
seen; and one sultry afternoon, mid win
ter at home). we came cantering into tn
stony streets of the old, old city that ha
seen several centuries before the Unite
r States was born. FANNIE B. WARD.