Morning journal and courier., 1891-01-03
MIR. wAKEMAN,s JOURNEYINGs
CONCLUDED FROM FIRST PAaE.]

of sturdy beeches climb the mountain. There are still standing forty thousand planted by the busy priors' hands. The monastery itself is huge quadrangular structure, with spacious inner courts. The ancient church, completely robbed of it's former treasures of paintings-save an Assumption by Franceschini, and the cu- pola frescoes, by Fabbrini-stands in the center of the courts. It's massive square tower rises grim and lone above the half. deserted buildings. Perhaps score of agents and government forssters who act as sort of mountain police about the se- questered property, abide here, surly, in- hospitable, and as if goddedly conscious of the sacrilege in their pretence of scho- lastic life. The old monastery bell still sounds the hours, but it speaks only to si- fence and decay. The great water basins which held the monks trout preserves are filled with dead leaves. The wondrous old kitchen, mighty truncated cone, where, swinging from 8 huge turnspit, the oxen once were roasted, is cobwebbed, cold and hreless. The Mettata, where an hundred COWS were kept, is untenanted. Paradisi- no, the ancient hermitage on the cliff above the monastery, with it's cells, tower and church are stripped and transformed into hayloft The half-ruined mill, un- derneath which rushes the Vicano, is de- serted and still. Marvellous indeed is it that the Italy of to-day has left one hint of the old life here. But there is just one. In the church there is an elaborately carved silver relquary. It contains the relics of San Giovanni. How the one brown bone which has miraculously es- capped decay must haunt the grave profes- sors of the "Collegio Forestale," as Val lombrosa now is called!
 One thousand feet higher than where ancient Vallombrosa stands in it's nest-ike valley five thousand feet above the sea, rises the fr-crowned summit of Prato- magno. From this point the most ravish- ingly beautiful view in all Italy is present ed. What wondrous associations are con- jured in contemplation of the fair, far Casentino valley with it's boundary be- yond, formed by the lofty Apenines, where are born historic Fiber and entran- cling Arno Tuscany, home of the dream breeding vine and fairest women, stretches annnily to the westward. The majestic Duomo glitters down there in the center of the purple, vineyard-checkered valley where Florence stands. And far, faint and magically seen through the passes ot the uttermost peaks of Catrara gleams g speck of sapphire where sweeps old Medi | terranean's sails.
 As incongruous as are the present occu pancy, uses and association of Vallombro sa, the spirit of the olden time flames il all one sees and feels at the deserted mon astery. In this cell, which now 8 st1iplint student makes his eamara da letto, tn
 good monk Guido originated the moder1 method of notation in music In thes
 larger rooms reposed at different times tn
 noble forms of Emperor Conrad H., Em
 press Gisela, the Abbess Ita, Countess E1
 mellina, of San Pietro Igneo after bein
 triumphant in his ordeal of flame, of Pope
 Victor H., Alexander II. and IV., Innc
 cent IT.. Pascal H.. and Leo IX., of Beat
 Tesoro Beccaria, the martyr, and tha
 grandest type of all Italian culture an
 chivalry, Lorenzo the Magnificent. Chrii
 tophano Landini, the celebrated comme1
 tator of Dante, made Vallombrosa hi
 haunt. The famous botanist, Buono Fas
 gi, Mattio Bandello, Boccacio's rival in lei
 ters, and Berni, the brilliant humorist, a
 lived and meditated at the hospitable rt
 treat. Dream among it's cloisters an groves as long as you may, and then g
 your way never to return. The mos
 priceless association that remains to you
 as to all men who speak the Englis
 tongue, is that Milton knew and love
 this idylic spot For months he was il
 welcome guest. Vallombrosa was th
 fountain of his inspiration. Here was GOT
 ceived the plan of great and ennoblin
 Arthurian epic. That gave place to
 loftier, grander theme, whose sublime mo
 tive, imagery and accomplishment for1
 the diadem in all that crowns the Englis
 tongue. Because Vallombrosa was th
 foster-mother of Paradise Lost" men wi
 ever bless the sweet old mountain-nest.
 I FDGAR I, WAKEMAN