Omaha daily bee., 1891-10-25

ate nantes made of brocade and OF gay
cloths. "A dark blue Charles TX mantle Is
lined with cardinalred velvet aud turned
back slightly in front to show this gorgeous
lining.
A very elegant dressing gown Is made OF
straw creme de cnine. Thu dress IS open aud
lightly draped over a front OF white velvet,
embroidered with black jet; the sleeves are
like the collar, OF white velvet, embroidered
with Jet.
Everywhere now the high shouldered full
sleeve seems TO prevail, aud always narrow
below and generally finished up with a mar
row cuff, very often or velvet. IL is, without
doubt, very becoming and gives a deal OF out
line to the figure.
Plain faced cloths are still In demand for
visiting gowns, and Bedford cords and rich
camelshairs in soft finish are used by tailors.
Olive green, bright royal blue and chestnut
brown are among the colors used for elegant
visiting gowns of cloth.
The greatest change in bodices is in their
reduced length. The bodices of all dresses
are quito short in front and at the sides,
though they are often quito long at the BACK,
IN some cases extending in Positions halt-
way down the back of the skirt.
IA feature of evening, toilet always wei
come is the velvet or brocado casaque worn
over the sheer lace waist. 1t is sleeveless,
opens to n point at the bottom of the waist,
thence the skirt rounds or slopes away TO the
back, where it reaches nearly to the hem--or
may DC prolonged INTO a lull IralD'
Ladies to whom Dame Nature was a step
mother ia tho distribution of curves and
dimples will hail as a boon the high evening
bodice. The model was in cream colored
cloth or delaino, opened in front and at the
back to display a plastron in old pink velvet
strewn with drops in opal, iot and coral.
Long sleeves to match.
There is renewed agitation in Springfield,
Mass, of the dress question, the point of at
tack being the long dresses which sweep the
streets and carry into the houses not only
dirt, but the germs of disease. IL Will DO
necessary, however, to bring some stronger
argument against the long skirt before woman
will consent to abandon IL. What is mere
health compared with fashioni
Steel is the hemmlng for cloth gowns this
fall. They are made with severe simplicity
until you reach the waistcoat or chemisette,
on which ornament eXhausts itself. Lace,
gauze, chiffon, muslin, crepe and all manner
of embroidered tissues are be-plaited. be-
frilled, be-tlounced in the most unheard OF
ways. A jabot down the middle Is essential,
and no matter how fluffy and fussy the ar
rangement, it is shaped to a tight-titting lin
ing.
A handsome dress of bright royal blue
cloth wPs made with "a plain skirt and
trimmed with a ~slX-inch band of sable crossed
diagonally at intervals of six inches by sable
tails. Tue bodice was double-breaSted
fastened by tortoise shell buttons In brown
shade and opened above the bust line to dis
play a square plastron of brown braldlng in
the shades of the sable. The sleeve of this
bodice was full and high above the elbow
and fitted close to the arm. a sable tail, put
on diagonally, was placed at the elbow ana
another edged the sleeve.
There is nothing especially new in hosiery.
Black silk stockings are in fashion for all oc-
casions, though for full dress wear n bronze,
tan or scarlet stocking to match the shoe, and
III harmony with the dress may be chosen.
The best plain silk stockings como from
England, ana Co.'S from s. to IS a pair. The
sive but not as durable a stocking. American
hosiery, for which there is a fad at present, is
more durable than the French, but 1t is not
as handsome as either tho French or English,
and it costs about the same as the lower
grades of English.
An evening dress, very pretty, and also of
the fashionable changeable silk, is with u
corsage OF pink silk. 1t is trimmed with
white embroidered tulle and with black en-
broideries. The back and sides of the back
furnish little coat basques. A rounded
waist, embroidered, as is. also the back
basque. Design of embroidery mounting the
seams, open in front in V shape over a
pleated shirt of lace, attached to the lining of
the corsage. A high draped collar with a
chicory ruche of velvet. The top of the back
decollete and rounded over a little gimp of
embroidered tulle trimmed with O high vo-
liant of the same tulle rounded as a pelerine
at the arm and stopping at each side. A vo-
liant of lace forming basque. The sleeves
slashed over a sleeve lining to the elbow,
bordered with a ruche OF velvet.