New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-03-13

Mexico is the passion for music when POSSESSES
all classes of the population. There is no other
country in Spanish-America where distinct school
Of native composers has been created The plaza
bands in Brazil, the Argentine and Chill play
selections from popular operas and strauss
waltzes. In Mexico the largest proportion Of the
music is Mexican, consisting Of military marches
and waltzcs OF original movement and refinement
of feeling Some of the bands unusually
good particularly those of Pucbla, Morelia and
Monterey. and the general standard OF execution
is far above that of South America. The plaza
crowds listen TO the music in the afternoon
evening not only with rapturous delight but
also with intelligent appreciation. They have a
strong preference for music by their COM
posers Ii is the characteristic expression Of their
own Joy in lie, their eNcitable temperament and
volatile spirits.
There is another evidence of practical reform in
this lovely old town to which incoming travellers
bear testimony cheerfully. In at least ole of the
hotels there are luxurious BEDS. me proprietor
is conscious of the graces of his hospitality for hc
invariably invciglcs his guests into a corner Oh
the first morning and crOss-eXamincs them respect
ing their experiences in the Mexican beds You
will not find such beds rs mine" he viii assert,
in any other city of the Republic. Assent is
readily accorded 10 TINS proposition by travellers
the nquisition racks Of Merida and Vera Cruz.
d" No." he Will continue, with increasing sell-com-
placency you will not again lind such beds as
mine. No such a landlord as ] am am here III
Orzaba, and yOu will not md me any where else
ia this great RcpubhC.
In the Alameda there is statue IN honor OF
a local patriot who rendered some signal pubic
service to the town. | doubt not that ths Writ
uous publican when he strolls under ne trees
and contcmplates the rose-leaves on which the
cahaeros from Sybaris rcclinc under biz rtot, con,
silcrs that the patriot has been oNerTated ana
that be ought to occupy the vacant pedestal.
Certainly the man who Will teach MeAlcanS TO
offer decent beds 10 strangers, even II they 40 not
care to sleep in them for their own cOmiofl, ue-
serves a monument Of onyX, and the lnscripWoh'
A Good Samaritan"
The two giant scntineIs OF the coast, the CAPE
de Perote and the PEAK OF OnZaba, are l1oI Mo
mountains on the outer edge of the broad Mex
lean tablcland. Jaapa lies al the base OF one
and Cordoba and Ori2aba within a day morse
back ride of the other These three cities are
approached through orange groves, plantations of
coffee, sugar and tobacco, and broad stretches OF
tropical forest over the English railway from
Vera Cruz the foot of the Cordilleras Nycaelcd
after sterile sayannahs and swamp lands nave
been passed. The vegetation increases IN luN-
uriahcc 10 the slopes are assembled Oarranc's
1000 feet IN depth Hank the line OF the railway
mount lin torrents and cascades catch the eye as
the train winds around ravincS and pllngeS from
one tunnel to another: Almost from the base OF
the mountains the majestic peak of OrIzaba, win
its SNOWY summit, is seen. ana every mic q iir
Journey inland its proportions are enlarged ana
its unique SplcndOr Is increased ltS - ui,h'iI''
lines and great height make ID one Of the most
impressive of mountains. and the finest views OF
the peak can he had from the railway along the
barranca of Metlac. When me town OF CriaG I,',
is reached. the mountain is hidden lyom ucw, nut
n short drive 10 the lovely falls Of Rincon Grandc
again brings it into view.
Tie scenery by the English railway If mag
nifcent for short distance before and after leaV-
inc Orizaba There Is ancient joke 10 the erect
that in going around tie horseshoe curves above
Naltrata the brakeman Of the rear cat can borrow
tobacco from the engineer in the CAB nj one tlrh
and light his pipe from the locomotive At another
4 railwoy which makes less than three miles IN
n direct line while passing over twenty miles OIL
zigZag and spiral cure cannot he anything nut
intensely interesting ~ sight-srers The scenery
by the lnteroceanic, The rev coast line TO NeNico
about to he opened. is described equally fine.
although the grades aIc easier and the methods
of construction much more ECONOMICAL ABOUT
S3O 100000 went into the English railway, owln4
TO the defective and incapable surveys for the
enterprise The original blunders have cntailci
high operating expenses, which will place it at
a serious disadvantage in meeting competition
l. y. F.