The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-10-11
4 SAMOAN SAUNTER
Over Lava Rocks and Obscure
Paths.
CoC0ANUTs THE ONLY DRINK
Tropical sun Above and Moisture Beneath,
Which Make Umbrellas or Rubbers
Useless Articles.

EOGATCLI, SALEGA, SAVAII, Samoa, July
90, 1851 Special correspondence of THE
HERALD. IA short account OF a seventy
mile walk through the tropical forests OF
Samoa may interest a few of the many,
many readers of The HERALD, who are,
themselves, somewhat acquainted with
similar South Pacific Islands to the
Samoan. Leaving headquarters with two
native boys soon after day dawn; almost
furnishing for water; our first stay at an
inland village where Its quiet natives leis-
urely wend their indolent ways, not know
ing the day nor the hour that, like Pompeii,
they will be buried to the world, as they
have for unwritteu generations lain at the
base of not long extinct crater; walk
over the, to this people, famous lava bed and
the finding of lonely white man, may
serve as preparatory remarks to my short
letter.
The villages on this island, Savaii, the
largest island of the group, snlike villages
on the other islands, lay in large districts
divided by long tracts of uninhabited for
ests, where the little narrow path is rocky
and very often lost from sight by trees
which seem to fall on purpose across the
path. A great inconvenience also on this
island is the lack of water. We have trav-
ersed now every corner of this island
forty-six miles long by twenty five miles
wide, and we know of only two running
streams, so that in travelling we have to
pick cocoanuts and drink the water of the
young nuts on the way. Every little vii
I'M
sandy beach, where, when the tide is not
out, may be seen the women and girls of the
village filing their bottles (old empty
cocoanut shells) with this
BRACKIsH BEACH WATER,
which, to the unaccustomed foreigner, is
sometimes disagreeably salty.
To return to the journey. Mr. Carpenter
and l, with our two native boys, babe tofa
soifua good bye to those of our Saleaula
branch friends and as soon after daylight
as possible we started for this small village
on the hill Fogatuli which is on the oppo-
site side of the island from Saleaula. We
walked for about three hours on the beach,
passing through several nicely situated
villages, and then the path led us off the
beach and up towards the evergreen hills
For several hours we walked through a
wild forest of paradise like greennegs; the
sun almost hidden from US, sending it's
golden rays through the gently moving
boughs of large chestnut tree, would here
and there afford an uneXceiled forest scene
for the artists brush. We rested fire.
quently for a drink, as these forests on a
close, warm day are conducive to perspira-
ton, which means drink often. Sitting on
our carpet OF autumn like leaves, which
fall, we would watch our native
boys climb, monkey fashion, towering CO.
coanut trees and pick off nuts, which when
peeled or skinned are filed by nature (kind
1rlend) with from pint to quart of pecu-
larry sweet water. The best nuts to drink
are those about one-third matured, called
niu; the matured nut is called popo. In
many places between villages these trees
are planted specially to furnish drink to the
weary tramper, ana quite frequently, as in
our case, the nuts are picked at a certain
place and carried to drink on the way
where no more nuts are found. On this
island especially there are many walks
where we are forced to carry our food and
drinking water. The afternoon of our first
day we walked mile after mile with no signs
Of humanity whatever; no, not even q fruit
tree, Our path for miles lay over
SOLID BED OF LAVA ROCK,
sparingly covered in places by a short bush
somewhat resembling our cailon oak tree.
We would sometimes get ahead of cur bows.
who carried our satchels 1--WE having to la
DOR hard TO carry ourselves) , and what with
he heat arising from the rocks and the
slarlng tropical sun over US, we frequently
found ourselves, as Mr.. Carpenter said
when we sat on some rocks quite exhausted.
IN another Turkish BATH" and with our
lais being used for fans, we would, almost
vanishing for drink, await the arrival of
ne boys with those longed for nuts Of
water Our kingdom for cocoanutl is
stating mildly whatwe feel we would give,
lad we the whereWith, under such circum
stances like these for drink,
After crossing probably five or six miles
II this somewhat ancient lava flow, we
again set foot on soil, and after walking
ABOUT TWO miles In thickIy wooded forest
We found ourselves IN Aopo, the small
Stand village previously mentioned. nest
ing as it does, at the base of high noun |
ain, st the back OF which Les sleeping the
'Xtinct crater, which according TO Samoan
history (native tradition), has not mauv
generations since closed its fiery mouth. |
This ancient little village, about twelve |
niles or more from the sea, is farther in
and than any other village on the group. |
" hen crossing the islands we often come to !!
graves, overgrown with weeds aud running |
mss, are left to show the play ground of |
many wild Samoan youth.
AS sea water or its equivalent is an indis- |
'ensable article for seasoning their food, |
ye asked these back woods natives how |
hey procured salt water every day. They |
Old US they could not get the sea water. so /
hey used salt, which is gathered by them |
It certain time OF the year, and at Ger
a oF
he iron bound coast, which has been form !
d by the lava running in;o the sea and pill
ng up as 1t cooled. There are not MANY
ays IN the year that the breakers run high |
nou8h TO send their foaming spray 10 the |
op Of this or these rocks. whore nature
gain shows US its unappreciated skill and |
he result is salt, which these inland
NATIVES GATHER UP AND CARRY HOME.
Knowing Of the other and more recent
ava bed, and also the long walk ahead of |
s, we started our second days tramp with
Ut stopping Tor breakfast, native custom
70 are forced to habituate ourselves to.
he rain during the night had left it's dews
n the tall grass on either side of our mar
ow path, aud was collected by our clothes
0 the extent of soon reminding US of wad-
lg deep stream. This tall, grassy weed.
'hlch is only found on the path, renders
N oreilas OF no use and rubber coats being
90 warm, we have no alternative but to al.
rays be prepared for weting.
After an hour and halfs walk we again
cave the shady woods and find ourselves
pproachlng the dreaded lava bed, and to
Sc sc 1man's phrase, 1--WE have to keep a
harp look out" lest we get off the trail
When fairly on the mu Qava bed grand
lght is presented TO US. The flow is about
wenty- i've miles from the crater to the sea
nd about three miles wide; the entire bed
like charcoal in color, and cooled in roll
lg waves of all sizes.
We find the highest rock, when halfway
cross. and with unbuttoned coats, enjoy
he sea breeze as 1t floats gently from the
-hite capped waves below. For a few
loments. while gazing on our wlerd like
we are lost in bewilderment.
q III IL ,