Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-10-04
ter that has demonstrated its inherent
CHAT ON FASHION.

| the majority Of women this season is how
to be fashionable when the purse-striugs
are drawing tighter than ever and papas
and husbands cry ''hard times,'' generally
| meeting the request for little shopping
| money, with the assertion that s'money is
tight, whatever that may mean.
Money markets are not quoted in fash
IONS halls, and the demand that women in
society must be fashionably dressed is in
exorable. And t-us the query, how to
economic and yet the world be no wiser
for ones doing, is often uppermost.
Difficult as this is, it is not impossible,
and few hints from one who has had some
opportunity to observe the incoming of
autumn and winter styles may not be
amiss.
In the first place every woman who
wishes to appear well dressed must give at
tention TO her millinery, and the prevailing
styles in hats and Donnets favor the taste
full and the careful. Last summers sailor
hat can be made modish by narrowing the
| brim, only few rows of braid being re-
quired to form it. While it is true that
plumage will be freely used in trimming, it
is also true that the inexpensive is much
worn. ''Coque feathers is only foreign
| name for the feathers 10 be had in every
poultry yard, and those of chickens, tur-
keys and ducks and the like are much
sought after. Chicken wings are preferred
to those of other fowls, because they are
broad and are well adapted to the mo of
trimming hats at the back Felt hats are
commonly close-ftting in front and high at
the back. These are usually trimmed with
rolls around the hat and bows at the back
of velvet, harmoniZing in color with the
costume. Feather aigrettes or short plunes
are intermixed. Chicken wings prepared
at home must be cleaned carefully so as not
TO disturb the feathers, and the ends of the
quilts dipped into gum arabic. Let them
dry so as to hold the feathers in place. Bon
nets are so simple that anyone with taste
can make one; q becoming shape, a little
silk or velvet, three or four yards of rib
bon, some short plumes, are all that is re-
quired if the fingers that handle them are
skillful. Most OF the bOunetS have strings
and some are arranged to tie at the back
under the hair-a revival that hints of a
style of hair-dressing once known as the
''chignon," and then carried to a disgust
ing extreme that it is hoped will never
again prevail.
The woman who cannot afford the eX-
travagauces of moneyed sisters and yet Is
possessed of a desire to appear well can
exercise her good sense in the purchase of
dress fabrics that are not the very latest
imp0rtations. While it is undoubtedly true
that Bedford cording and long haired plaids
are popular and the fact that merchants are
having special sales of suitings, still one
may purchase for the winter a suit dress
aud look stylish if the embroidery or woven
design is not in too sharp contrast with the
background-there was never a season
when contrast was more summed and har-
mony more sought after. In buying wool
dress there is true economy, and if the color
is well chosen there is good taste N the
choice of plain goods; fashion this season
comedies them to be the best. Many fabrics
show hairy tufts, and some have the surface
covered with black and white hairs. Most
and quiet in color.
Cheviots and serges are made With the
skirts walking length finished with sim
pie hem, u few upturned pleats at the waist
and fan pleats at the back These gowns
are made with jacket basques showing
pique shirt front, or regular REFER with a
blouse waist of silk worn underneath. A
pretty costume is of brown striped camel's
hair.
The skirt apparently opens in front over
brown faille, and the side draperies Gas well
as the bottom, and indeed, every edge are
bordered with q narrow, brown silk gimp
The basque is slashed and bordered like
the skirt.
The front has simulated girdle of brown
faiile, studded with large nail heads.
Above this is full vest of biscuit colored
faile everything is faille now, and the
revers are the same, studded with more
nail heads.
The back of the basque is cut quite plain,
with the seams left open for the slashes.
Among the smaller accessories to chic
toilets nothing is more used that nail
heads. These are made either of steel or
jet, and are the exact reproduction of the
style worn quarter of 4 century ago.
The coat bodice differs somewhat in cut
from last season. It is cut very long in the
back, but only covers the hips, and opens
in front over long waistcoat, embro dered. |
trimmed with braid or pasSementerie, as
best accords with the gown. The long
lappels are often of velvet, edged with lace |
or narrow feather trimming, as is the high |
standing, square collar
a novelty in tea gowns is one with folded |
front, wide back and round sides, which |
are drawn into folds below the waist.
The gown has a double front, the lower |
one of which, made of lining. is covered |
over with front of fancy fabric, and |
closes with hooks or with hidden buttons, |
the folds being so arranged that they reach |
over the border of the lower front and COM |
pletely hide the opening.
The lengths of the front are so folded at |
the waist rs not to be too prominent. They |
end at the neck, opening into a rounded |
yoke. The standing collar is covered with |
folded meterial. The double fronts are ar
ranged into fold at the shoulder seam: in |
order to obtain this they are widened |