The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-04-26

hire in Valparaiso, and one chooses be-
tween them according to his destination.
II his excursion is confined to the lower
town, he takes an ordinary carriage with
two horses attached; but if the hills are TO
be assembled he must pay nearly double the
price for a heavier built vehicle to which
three horses are harnesed abreast-the law
forbidding any others to go up. The hap
hazzardspaths that were originally laid out
by the
GOATS THAT FED UP ON THE MOUNTAIN
sides, meander about in the most confusing
manner, but are now abandoned except by
pedestrians, for all wheels go by the splen-
did new road, winding around the hills,
which has lately been completed distance
of about nine miles.
Viewed from the bay, especially of an
evening, Valparaiso presents fine appear
ance, with long lines of lights, one above
another, making it look, as Mr.. Curt S
says, like "a city turned up on end.'' Elec-
trio lights placed upon the crests of the
cliffs, throw their rays and intensified shad-
ows upon the streets and terraces and gar
dens below, with the effect of moonlight.
But by "the garish light of day' the rows
of houses and huts, of irregular shapes and
elevations, clinging to the precipices like
sc many birds nests, look as if one stiff
breeze would blow them off into the bay.
MIR. Vincent lkens Valparaiso to vast
amphitheatre, regarding the ridges of the
hills IS aisles, and is reminded of Hong
Kong by its sloping position, and of Quebec
by its
SPURS WHICH TERMINATE IN BLUFFS
at the waters edge. AT any rate, despite
its natural disadvantages, Chillian enter
prise, assisted by English, French and Ger
man capital, have made here a splendid
city-the finest port in South America, in
fact the only one on the southern CONT
nent which can show all modern improve
ments. 1t resembles city of France or
Germany, or even of the United States,
more nearly than it does any other in this
country. But our northern republic has
no city with only Valparaiso's population,
! Q25, 000), which contains so many fine shops
and such display of costly and luxurious
articles. The foreign element is large
and wealthy, the natives proud and pros
porous, and like the nearby capital, the
place is famous for the extravaganza of
its citizens. Many of the private resi-
dences are palaces in their proportions and
adornments and millionaires are as COM
mon here as ten-thousand- dollar people at
| home.
The principal commercial street, called
THE GALE VICTORIA,
! stretches around the enUlr6 HarUOr aDC pre-
sents some splendid architecture, having
been considered rivalry in the matter OF
deliberately carved facades and other adorn-
ments Many of the best public and pri-
vate houses are found on the street which
was named in honor of England's Queen,
as well as most of the banks, hotels, count
ing houses of wholesale firms, and shops OF
the heaviest retailers. A recent traveller
w rites: 'As I walked past the elegant
bronze statue of Lord Cochrane the Eng
lishman who commanded the fleet of Chill
! from 1918 to 1S22-with the postofflce and
fire engine to the left, and the municipal
palace before me; and turned down street
to the right, to the Grand Central hotel
with its long flight of marble steps. was
struck by the very civilized look of the ia
nous Gillian port. The people who were
rushing about in the eagerness of business
activity. did not seem to be South Ameri
cans, but Germans, French, English ant
| Yankees. When l came to enter some o.
the
GREAT FOREIGN MERCANTILE HOUSES,
exten ding from street to street and fitted
with perfect modern appointments; ani
| when at night sauntered through the Ions
GALES where most of the retail business il
done, with brilliantly lighted shops file,
with a gorgeous variety of goods from every