Daily Yellowstone journal., 1891-05-26
WAKEMAN'S WANDERINGS
A COACHING TRIP IN THE ENGLISH
LAKE REGION.

i
LAnd"-From Keswiek TO windermers
on the Boz OF an Umbrian Coach.
Copyright. 1901. BY Edgar l. wakemAn-l
WnDERMERE, England, May l2.-The
conventional trip taken through the lake
district is either after arrival by rail at its
southern headquarters, Windermere, by
coach north through the heart Of the re-
gion to Keswick, or on arrival by rail at |
Keswick, over the same grand highway by !
coach south 70 Windermere. Thus tour
ists. and particularly American tourists, |
who wish 70 make the best use Of their
hours, are enabled 20 secure a very good
general idea Of the district, and certainly
look upon that portion richest in assOciat-
i've interest-while viewing its finest lakes,
loveliest wales and loftiest mountains-by
An expenditure Of but one days time.
You are at Keswick- II you have book
ed" at least three days in advance, have
I Maid for two fares besides your own, and
| nave privately consulted with stipendary
notifications the driver and guard as to
the most favorable measures for viewing
the region, you can secure your seat on the
box Of the most popular going out" coach
at Q in the morning, the envy and giares oi
the remainder Of che fares" whom you
! find represent almost every civilized ma
tionAlity, Americans and Germans pre-
dominating. II you ask questions you wiz
also secure the largest number OF wide
winged "out-and cutters" with which your
credence was ever assailed.
The gentle thrill which accompanies this
reflection has barely suhsided when you
have passed beautiful Greta Bridge, and
with sudden turn TO the right begin the
long ascent Of Castle Rigg-''the most
windip' one for 'osses o. the stretch" ;" the
driver remarks In the single truthful state
ment you will receive all the way 70 Win
dermere. But in this long, slow climb you
pass Chestnut Hill. aquaint little, crooked
roof house, with its historic sycamore, elm
and cherry tree, where Shelley brought hi
schoolgirl bride, and where they chased
each other like happy children about th'
flower beds until the stern Cum brian land
J lord chased them both away. As the coact
is halted at the top Of Castle Rigg' LOO
feet above Keswick. grand ami beautifu
indeed is that scene behind The entir
vale Of Derwent is spread TO view.
? This dragging way over Castle Rigg
one Of the two great heights you Will al
tain by coach on your pleasant Jour7eI
The other is at Dunmail Raise, Just Oetor
the west-for your direction Is nearly a
vyays due south from Keswick 70 Winde
mere-are the seemingly endless fells, odo
Gus with the budding heath, and here an
there a mass Of color from banks OF VII
, lets. In front the wide. smooth noun
ain road winds between overhanging hc
\ ened rocks, spans shadowy dingles, and
a.. apDarent end seems to drop sheer into
measureless sea of blue. But now TO q
left, down, down, as If into some vast witt
. caldron, the sight descends, and attemp
TO penetrate the films Of mist. Morning
late in reaching St. Johns vale. The mi
breaks above in feathery riffs where c
III ravs of the eastern sun filter through
~ dlmy streams Of gold. Half disclosed
hind them are the dark gray outlines
the mighty crag, Castle Rock. You cam
see IL clearly, but Scott has 50 nobly
.r scribed il in "The Bridal Of Triermaiu
with It's
Wicket OF oak, as iron hard
with iron studded. clinched and barred
And prong'd portcullis. join'd TO guard
The gloomy pass below,
: that you need no better view.
Above this, almost on a level with 20
coarh which is Just beginning the 10
southern descent Of Castle Rigg, lies hu
., moving cloud. Il is slowly passing do
the valley. Suddenly you realize you
v above the clouds, for See the Strid
m EdRef' is chorused by many Of your CO
" nanions. There il lies, this grim, yeuo
blaek and curved ridge Of Helvellyn, I
iestic monarch Of all this grand lake regi
IL saems across that cloud TO be the mig
mural walls Of some weird isle, unatt'
able beyond a sea Of mountainous wa
A curve in the road for few nome
hides cloud and mountain top. W
Helvellyn again appears, the cloud
been lost in and over the Vale OF St. DC
and there stands the grand old mount
forest hung at its base, cleft and seal
U ahove stili higher striped here and q
. with far descending torrents, like mis-
IN nlnmes in white, and its broken sum
LII and "Striding Edge" showing thousa
- Of blackened almost vertical turrow
the eternal stone Of its peaks and ridge
Rut Won now have something to do
sides Gaze on Helvellyn. Your coach /,
seending the mountain at tremen'
speed. The wheel horses are at their
mace. in a trot, and the leaders are u
at canter The skids smoke at the VII
MANY God bless mep' is ejaculateS
old travellers. The ladies stihe little shi
in vain, and have recourse 70 oce'.si
. alarming "Ouches" The guard blow
- horn furiously. And ina series of bou
Iurches and ricochets. over a good
miles descent, done in less than seven
utes. the foaming horses, the creaAl
n clouded coach and gasping passel
II come 10 a grateful standstill at the h
Al Head inn. Thirlspot, hard by the shor
Thirlmere lake.
The inn is for those who wish TO st
their legs aud wash the mountain
from their throats with mountain
AH You remain in your high seat ther
LJI this valley and its mountain sides
hosts of memory wraiths for the lew
utes in which they may appear ia
. fore you is Dalehsad Hail. once Il
- Southey's mirth and Wordsworth.s
~ wisdom Beside It Dalehead meado'
Hrt,N which once stood the famous lnn-e
vi for packers and dalesmeni W llhe