The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1891-03-21
DESIGNERS Of NECKWEAB
Very Elaborate Preparations for
Producing the Figured Novel
ties to BE- Seen.
Work OF the Artist Whose Bust
ness 1t is to Produce the
Designs.
Twelve Hundred Threads and Their Intri-
cate MaMipulation-The Utmost Care
& Must be Exercised.

cate MAnipNlRti0n-The Utmost Care
Must be Exercised.
In one corner Of the room at a high deak
sits a quiet little gentleman who il busy
celebrating with color on a largo sheet OF
paper, which looks as If ready to receive a
map Of the world. You See" said he to a
representative of the Clothier and Fur
nisher, II have here a scrap book contain
ing thousands of little detached figures;
here is a pomegranate, here three little
pears, a leaf, q scroll, an srabesqus, and 80
on. have no set rule. l take everything
within the province Of art that can furnish
me with a small figure or a ground design
and make whatever comes into my head. /
am we'll supplied with all the newest art
publications for inspiration and keep on
turning out my little figures in black. white
and color. Then this ruled paper
comes into play. It is ruled right
and left, up and down, you zee, form
ing little squares. This large sheet
represents a piece of the new fabric which /
two lines running either way represents a
thread, and the crossings of sixteen threads
are involved in a little 3-16th inch square.
On the finely ruled paper l measure out my
design, putting each colored thread exactly
in its proper place. The figures are pre-
cisely scaled 80 that after n certain section
Of the fabric is lone it is repeated, ana TINS
Key section is what we have especially to
deal with. then take the motive 50 deter
mined and enlarge it upon a sheet which
brings my 3 10th inch squares UP. to Two
inches either way, 80 that each thread 10
shown an eighth-inch broad. This motive
has now to be reproduced upon the cards.
1.-THE use of the card in a jacquard loom
10 precisely the same as that of thd per
1orated paper roll OF a mechanical organ
cite or of the toothed wheel of a music
box. The principle is the same in all, that
of allowing certain keys to operate, Whlle
the rest remain stationary. The loom has
myriad little sliding bars, at the extremity
of each of which is a hook to which one or
more threads are tied, according to the
fabric desired. These little bars are
weighted 40 that the tendency of all is to
slip forward in a small aperture, of which
there are many in a long metal plate, which
may be compared to the reed no1 OF a
of the bobbin transversely across the fabric
a card ia provided. The card is a strip of
pasteboard the exact width Of the fabric,
and perforated in several lines with
small round holes which fit just over the
reeds. so to speak, and allow certain of the
little thread-bearing bars to fall forward
into a front rank, while the rest are held
back in a sort of place. Then the bobbin
is deity thrown in a narrow groove across
the machine between the line of threads
which stand forward and that which is re-
tanned behind. Of course, the colored de-
sign is shot while the ground is tied from
the hooks at the top to the stationary bot
tom weights of the upright loom frame.
For every thread of the warp which does
not advance for the throw, a thin speck Of
color is given to the surface, and SO as the
cards pass one by one before the reeded
plate of the loom the color is shown or left
out in exact reproduction of the large
model which the artist has designed.
"Some idea of the magnitude of this
microscopical calculation can be gathered
by the fact that in order to form the warp
of some pieces Of goods over 1,20O threads
have to be separately tied from weight to
hooks in the vertical frame, and then the
throws of the bobbin calculated SO as to
change the color Of the silk at just the right
line where another is required-say throw
ing ten times red, then three blue, then five
red, then ten blue, and SO on. BY this pro-
cards employed and the number of colors
shot, a picture of any complication can be
produced with the exactitude of tapestry
picked out by the needle. Now, the most
wonderful process of all is the manner in
which those cards are automatically pro-
duced so that the holes punched correspond
exactly with the calculations made on the
original design. This is done by a ma
chine. This apparatus has all the main
features of a jacquard loom with a diff
ference. The difference is that it's
reeds are furnished with a set
of steel punches, which are pushed forward
by sliding bars similar to those bearing the
thraaGa nf tina warn in tine loom. These
sliding bars are identical in number with
the threads or strands from side Ito side in
a piece of given width, and to each is secured
n fine, stout cord which is carried to and
weighted down in q perpendicular frame
corresponding to that in the loom. Then
cords running from side to side N in
number corresponding to the key" section
of which l nave spoken. The designer
takes his enormous paper plan, on which it
will be remembered that every thread is
indicated with mathematical accuracy. and
"weft' threads he deftly weaves xlem in
and ont Of his simulated warp SO that every
thread goes before or behind that which it
crosses, exactly as the design calls for.
''This done, n can plainly perceive the
rough and exaggerated proportions of the
figure woven like some coarse mating, but
the work does not stop here. 1t il now
plainly seen just which strands of thread
are to fall forward to let the bobbin of the
loom pass behind them, and 80 accounting
for each strand of the welt, line by line, the
designer selzes all required in one hand
md firmly pulls as though about to ring a
miniature chime. Each cord of the warp
thus seized draws it's corresponding bar,
releasing a punch which falls into it's aper-
ture in a brass plate exactly corresponding
to the set of reeds. This plate is then re-
moved to a cutting press, a slip of card is
placed under it, and, presto, is perforated
those magic holes which will
govern the movement of the silken
warp in the loom. Tn punches are then
returned. When the cards nave been cut
and numbered in consecutive succession u
bright boy cards them together In n long
strip ready to be run through the voiceless
organette which plays those beautiful har-
of color which we are so won't to ad-
mire when a new seasons range of neck
wear silks is displayed. The elaborateness
of a single section of fine neckwear
silk can be gathered from the fact that for
hundred perpendicular threads as
many as 800 cards have sometimes to be
punched, each card representingthe ms and
puts of a single thread of color. The great
est care must ba taken in doing the work,
as the slightest flaw will ruin the value OF a
large piece.
Dyspepsia in its worst form, will yield to the
nse Of Carter's Little Nerve Pills aided by Carter's
Little Liver Pills, they aot only relieve present