The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-04-05
THE WOMEN OF FASHION.
A PARASOL, FLOWER AND RIBBON
DECKEO TOM TIL Ger GOWN.


Earter"-No OK q Variety in the
Choice Of Spring Gowns Foundation
Skirts Are Eade of Better &ateria,
Than the DR., IS 1 sslf-Oddities in
Eoots and Sloes-A French Fashion
just Adopted H re.
Copyright, 1917
New YORK, April 4-Parasols have
sprung into prominence in the shop windows,
and the early spring sun even spies one here
and there upon the drives in the park. They
have wakened into life and activity like
mushrooms. A few hours ago they were
almost unthought of as part of the seasons
necessary accomplishments. Now, the win
dows are filed with them, and every ono is
either buying or making one of these light,
airy absurdities which shall be, neverthe-
less. sufficient to act as a protection from
the mildness Of April suns.
Buying or makingl So runs the text, for
it is one Of the easiest things in the world
to produce lace parasol of the style IA
vored in the shop windows.
All that is needed is some figured black
net. a parasol frame and little taste aud
ingenuity. The prettieSt and newest para
soils for spring use have no lining. The net
is gathered very full at the top and falls
hence to the edge in a deep iounce. The
lace is secured to the sticks which hold it in
place and a ribbon bow conceals the shir-
ring at top.
Around the edge there is deep fall of
lace from three to eight inches vide, which
may, If fancy dictates, be caught up at in
tervals with sprays of flowers, real or arti-
fetal.
White lace parasols are dotted here and
there with punches of violets, or whatever
flower chances to be the favorite of the
owner. A lively creation seen at Riverside
during the first warm smile Of the sun was
OF white net put on very full From the
top of the parasol hung low sprays Of arbu-
tus, which were fastened in place so as TO
give careless effect.
The toque accompanying this was OF
white lace and arbutus sprays with pink silk
pon-pons. Anot er parasol, as yet held in
reserve from public view, is Of black net
with deep lace rutfies Bunches of lilacs
decorate the top and the inside. The parasol
is small, and is not designed to be closed.
On calling expeditions it is left in the car
riage. AT home it is preserved in a case de-
signed specially for this purpose.
The long girdles have been modified for
shopping and every day expeditions into
deep belts which are girdle shaped. They
are narrow at back, but with deep point
in front extending several inches above and
below the waist liue. Very stylish ones are
OF black leather trimmed with silver or
steel. Still more fashionable are the all
gold, or all steel ones. Heavily gorgeous
and glistening are the cut silver ones which
CLEAN and sparkle like ten thousand suns as
the wearer passes by.
These belts, varying as they do In style
and material, are suitable for wear with all
costumes. Pearl belts are seen upon even
ing dresses, cloth belts trimmed with nail
heads or "jewels" are part Of street outfit
and passementerie is stitched upon the belts
Of gowns for every day wear, should the
owner prefer homo manufacture rather
than the brilliant effects to be found in the
shops.
Since the long dress skirts became popu-
lar it has been necessary the lining OF dress
skirts quite ornamental, since each lift of
the skirt left it plainly visible. At cross
ings, on muddy walks, and In passing down
stairs, the skirt had to be lifted or a single
wearing would render it insight y.
OF course no woman of taste WAS willing
to display underneath her fashionable gown
a muslin lining wrinkled and shapeless, with
a simple braid and blank band of facing
upon it. On consultation with the modistes
it was decided that silk should be chosen
for these foundation skirts, and that the
skirts should be prettily trimmed with
braid, cord or passementerle.
This method OF making the foundation
skirts pretty has long been French style,
though it has been but recently adopted
here.
Where the skirt draperies can be fastened
| on the waist, the foundation skirt is made
separate and is put on like petticoat.
Should the skirt draperies be unattached to
the waist, both skirts are gathered in on
the same band.
A pretty blue costume, trimmed with
| red, showed, when the skirt vas lifted, a
| silk foundation of blue trimmed with bands
Of red. On each side of the red bands was
slender gold cord.
| Boots, shoes and slippers continue to take
on shapes that are more unique. The Juliet
is made in all shades of pretty colors to lie
worn with house dresses. Stockings of a
contrasting hue peep out at each side of the
| low cut scallops.
Mrs. Langtry is delighting the world Of
| women by magnificent exhibition Of nice
dresses in her play Of Lady Barter" There
are five changes, each one of which seems
prettier than the last.
In the first act the Lily wears riding
habit. The bodice is of the regulation coat
shaped, black IN color. Underneath there
is a waistcoat of horsecloth with large blue
| spots. The skirt is beautifully fitted.
The horsecloth referred to Is kind OF
| RUOuo new Will bSdSOus IL VOuloo III
many shades, and is diversified by large
hairy spots on the same, or a contrasting
color. The spots are ofttimes Of ecru upon
black ground giving leopard-skin effect.
Again they are of white and brown upon a
blue ground, or vet black and white upon
deep red foundation. The effect is snowy
and generally good.
| In Lady Barter" Mrs. Langtry lays
claim to wearing the largest sleeves ever
seen in dress. The gown which bea them
is polonalse dress with petticoat Of pearl
| gray satin, with scroll work done in gold
and fawn color. The polonaise is OF fawn
silk trimmed lightly with gold passemente-
| RE. The sleeves are fashioned on the leg of
mutton pattern, and are immense above the
elbow.
The prettiest dress Of all is said TO be a
light bus crepe-de-chine tea gown. On one
| side of the skirt is a cascade Of pale yellow,
slightly draped. TIE bodice is sufficiently
tight-ftting to show the countour of the
waist. Zouave forms Of gold embroidery
outline the armholes; and a gold embroid-
cred collar stands smartly upright.
Two pairs of sleeves accompany this
gown, producing, as it will, an appearance
so different as to suggest change Of gowns.
One pair Of sleeves is of yellow material to
match the cascade on the side Of the skirt.
The other is of blue crepe-de-chine. Both
pairs OF sleeves are full and flowing.
A peach colored afternoon reception dress
is trimmed with gold embroidery as to the
waist. The skirt hangs full and perfectly