The morning call., 1891-08-09
FASHIONS FOR
MIDSUMMER.
The Styles That Are Observed for the
StGrnGr Sex al Present.
A Refreshing Feature Is the Extreme Plain
ness of the Fabrics Most in Vogue.
Effects Are Disappearing.

Midsummer fashions offer, perhaps. a less
varied range of novelties than the modes
which are supposed to come with the first
Duds and blossoms, principally because
lhey are rather DEVELOPMENTS of earlier
ventures which have taken well and not
STARTERS" on their own account. The
weather" as rule, is the infallible resort
OF feeble imaginations, which dare not
launch upon an original topic, even il one
be possessed. With clothing and furnish
ing trades, however, the state and tendency
OF atmospheric conditions are anything but
small talk, SO that | may be pardoned for
opening by saying that if bad weather has
been responsible for our having had no
spring season whatever, its antithesis is re-
sponslble for the summer quarter opening
up exceedingly well. In fact, owing to both
the foregoing and peculiar social features,
the London summer promises TO be unuSu-
ally brilliant. The Prince of Wales and his
hopeful heir are in town, while the young
Emperor OF Germany, with brilliant suite,
has been
HERE AND GONE AGAIN.
One of the most refreshing features of
current costume this summer lies in the ex-
IRENE plainness of the fabrics most in
vogue. Effects have almost entirely dis
appeared, and to wear ''check" is counted
almost as criminal as to forge one. Study
ing well-dressed Londoners one perceives
the prevalence at the present moment of the
series series OF light grays, drabs and slate blues
which promised so well at the opening of
the season. These colors in light cashmeres
are the hot weather wear of the upper ten.
IL Is becoming more and more common
daily to SEQ a drab cashmere prince
Albert" topped off by a white hat. The
craze for reds has completely subsidized, its
place being taken by rather more of to-
Daeeo or snuff shade of brown, which does
not look half bad in neat sack suit. Not
WlthStandlng the prevalence of light colors
a very great many fr0cks and three or four
button getaways in lightweight black
worsteds are to be observed, and these, in
turn, worn over various descriptions of
fancy waistcoats and light cashmere trous-
erlngs. 1t is remarkable that comparatively
lew sack suits are to be seen in the streets
lhls summer, and that the use OF frock coats
Is rather on the increase.
Inc 1rock coat of to-day, with its broad
lape!s, is more like that Of eighteen years
Years ago than that OF five.
THE EFFECT
As worn with the deep belled hat of about
the same period is not half bad, either.
Revive feminine apparel of 1870 or there
to deal with, but the genus homo of that
epoch looks rs jaunty and sportive as could
be wished. In speaking of this revival of
male dress let me not neglect to state that
tile prlHclp!e Is carried out IN not only the
outer garments, but in furnishing goods and
1ewelry. The fashionable summer vest is
cut low enough to show three studs,
which may be anything which fancy die
tates. Its lapels are broad, and with it is
worn voluminous albert" chain, reach
ing from pocket to pocket and depending
from n lower button at which locket or seal
IS worn. The shirt collar is increasing in
proportions, and from the scarcely percen-
tble corner turned down by the wearer of
last summer has reached degree of ''bent
point which is truly appalling. Bows of
minute size are quite common as well. The
use OF white and colored flannelS in lawn
tennis and other outing goods will scarcely
go further than it has up to now. for it has
become almost universal. At this period of
the year tallors' windows are given up
almost entirely to displays of sporting fan
nels, which are to be found not only in a
great variety Of white nuances, but in tnts
and tinted strlplngs upon white grounds. An
amount oil luxury Is now put into
SUMNER FLANNELS
Which not so long ago would have been
deemed fabulous. The greatest advances
have been made in the intermixture of silk
with the wool either in toto or used for the
colored stripping upon the white wooden
ground. The beauty OF these goods has
permitted the nightshirt to regain much of
the ground taken from it by the extraordi-
nary popularity which pajama suits have
enjoyed of late years. Swell dressers, or
rather undresser>, have quite abandoned
the linen nightshirt in favor of either silk
or flannel, at the present moment giving
the preference to such as | have named
above. In underwear there is not much
change except in that patterns and
fabrics are very quiet. Little silk is being
shown, because there are so few Americans
here to buy it, Englishmen going in much
more for lght-gray natural wools." The
English system of making drawers is some
what more elaborate than ours, inasmuch as
they go in for sort of abdominal support
ing waist6and or belt" as it is called. but
toning with as many as eight buttons in
front and lacing through eyelet- holes be-
hind. The idea of tight abdominal band
age comes, like pajamas, sashes and twenty
other specialties, from England's hot exotic
possessions. Returning colonsts bring a
good idea home with them and it speedily
becomes the rage for hot weather wear
Clothier and Furnisher.