Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-09-19
IN SOUTHERN CHILL.
Among the Unconquerable Arauca-
MAN Indians.
THE MUD PALACE OF A KING.
Horseback Journey Through the Domain
Of the Llanistos and Conestos-Prod uctive
Farms and Comfortable Houses-Chichat the
Favorite Drink-How 1t 10 Made
From The Stars Travelling Correspondent.

the extreme south OF Chill, many miles up the
Valdivia river, with Corral as its seaport-it
was not considered safe to journey in the usual
route (by ocean,, on account OF biockaded
ports and rebel cruisers and various calamities
that are liable to overtake vessels in Gillian
waters during these days of war. The only
alternative was to travel across country. most
OF the way on horseback, through what is yet
known in the Spanish history as the I'm
vincible State" being controlled by those un-
conquerable Indians, the Araucanians.
1t will be remembered that many years after
the Spaniards had taken possession Of the rest
OF Chilli they abandoned the hopeless task OF
trying to subdue the Araucanians, who are the
bravest and most interesting Indians in all
South America. and magnanimously gave them
what they had always possessed-their indie
pendence, which they have ever since MAIN
tanned Their territory extends from the
andes to the sea, between the Bio-Bio and
Naldivia rivers, and comprises some Of the best
agricultural sections OF the country, well as
the heaviest forests and widest mountains.
Centuries ago the Araucanian Council of Wise
Men passed law which punished with death
any Indian who should sell his lands to the
white man.
THE THREE TRIBES.
As they now exist those Indians are divided
who rove the pine forests (Pecheun) Of the
Andes; the Llanistas who inhabit the interior
llanos, or plains, and the Casinos, who live
near the borders of Araucania, cultivate the
SOIL, raise cattle and have voluntarily submitted
themselves somewhat to the federal govern
ment. Not many years ago q journey across
any part OF the Indian domain would have been
impossible. To this day it is entirely out Of
the question to visit the savage Pehuenches,
Tor the fool-hardy pale face who ventures within
their dark forests and gloomy mountain recesses
never returns to tell the tale. Even to cross
the open plains of the Llanistas requires no
small amount of courage, but spice of danger
adds zest to such an expedition and one is sure
TO PICK up many curious bits of information
concerning those remarkable aboriSines, not
to mention the barbaric trinkets which every
Gringoes soul covets earrings, bracelets spurs
and stirrups of beaten silver.
THE PARTY.
Our party consisted of nine well-armed gen.
tlemen (mostly Englishmen and Germans). led
by one who was familiar with the route, having
traversed it many times on a mission of trade
which made him welcome among the Indians:
several Valdivia ladies' who had come north to
visit relatives, without considering that the
exiSencics of war might make return to their
homes difficult matter; myself and young
lady stenOSrapher, halfbreed interpreter and
a number of servants. We were abundantly
supplied with extra animals. tents edibles and
ammunition, besides the Photographic outfit
which accompanies your correspondent and
her assistant as closely as their shadows Thus
equipped for three weeks life in the wilder
Angel one early morning and proceeded due
southwark in the best of spirits.
THE CASTINGS,
who iuhabit the borders of Araucania, have
farms and comfortable homes, and civilization
has done for them what Spanish cruelties and
force OF arms were powerless to accomplish
Today this tribe of the redOubtabie Araucanians
are plodding laborers and have somehow be-
come wonderfully bleached in complexion
Their broad-shouldered women work in the
fields, outdoing the men in feats of strength az
well as SURPRISING them in intelligence. and
whenever Casino husband gets drunk or IN
ruly his gentle spouse makes nothing Of giving
him sound fogging.
RICHES FOR THE CATHERINE.
1t is related in history that when the con-
queror, Valdivia, desired to recruit his army
while vainly endeavoring to overthrow the
ancestors of these dusky people he caused his
fayorlte mare to be shod with shoes of pure
gold. put on with headless nails Then he
went up to Peru and induced one of the native
princes to race horses with him for a high
wager. Or course, as Valdivia expected the
golden shoes fell off and were left on the field.
When some Of the common people picked
of reward he said to them grandiloquentiy:
Keep them. my children keep them. In the
land OF Chilli. whittier l shall soon return,
riches are to be had for the gathering. There
gold and silver are 30 common as to be OF little
value; here they will serve to allay your hum
ger. 1t is needless to remark that afterward
tine shrewd general found plenty of recruits.
His statement comes nearer the truth TODAY
for in this part of Chill riches NAV truly ..be
had for the gathering but in golden grain
ale
yields from forty to sixty bushels to the acre.
All the land lying along the Bio-Bio and in the
great plains of the Rio Veragara il wonder
fully rich and requires little cultivation.
LI.ANIsTo VILLAGE.
After more than a week Of easy travelling.
iatterly through unbroken wilds frequent pic
mic haults being made for fishing and hunting,
We suddenly came in sight one afternoon of a
Llanisto village. At the same moment a young
Indian appeared in the path and stopped the
cavalcade TO inquire who we were and where
we were going. He was evidently acting
from authority and had been sent from the
village TO intercept u.s. 1t was afterward dis
closed that keen eyes and silent footsteps had
been shadowing us for several days. though we
had not suspected it. Our interpreter dis
played written passport from 1.-The Great
White Father in Conception" (the governor)
and assured the Araucanian that we were
friends, who had come q long way to visit the
mighty chief of the Llanistos and his people.
Thereupon the smiling warrior exhibited
splendid set Of whitest ivory and informed us
that, though the great chief lived farther down
the river, the sabchief. who was q man OF sur
passing valor, would be happy to welcome us.
IN THE INDIAN CAMP.
confess that it was not without some trepi-
dation we followed our new guide into the
center Of the Indian camp and halted in front
of the largest dwelling 1t was a three-room
palace Of mud aud logs. rooted with dried grass
and in its doorway stood q man OF powerful
frame, with an extremely ugly but rather intel
ligent face and an abnormally large head
whose size was exaggerated by a bushy shock
Of coarse hair. Having been told by the in
terpreter why we were passing through his
country he shook hands with each Of the men,
but of course his dignity forbade such an act Of
condesoension toward ''squaws" though they
were comparatively white ones-s circumstance
We did not regret An army of boys had con-
gregated in open-mouthed wonder, and bid
ding them hold the horses his blanketed high
ness invited US to enter the casa, where his
numerous wives were already spreading guam
AGO skins on the dirt floor for us to sit upon.
He even unbent SO far toward US insignificant
women folk" as to introduce his favorite
squaw, by jerk OF his thumb in her direction
and ours, whereupon that lazy Immediately
began minute examination Of cur garments,
exhibiting especial interest in our boots hats
| and gloves and holding up our watches for the
admiration Of the other women.
DRISKINa CHIcHA FROM cows HORNS.
Presently huge earthen pot, containing