davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
EASTER BoNNETs AND THE GRIP.
Tho Spring Millinery Display Helped to
Fatten the Graveyards.

Tho Spring Millinery Display Helped to
Fatten the Graveyards.
Boston Traveller
A few days ago my attention was called to
the circumstance that among the deaths in
New York by the grip more than two-thirds
of the number of victims were feminine.
Fashion is responsible for a good deal Of
this feminine mortality" said the doctor
who mentioned the subject. Fashion de-
crees that women shall appear in new
dresses and boDnets at Easter, regardless of
the weather. Ii you were on the avenue on
Easter Sunday you doubtless saw great
numbers of these social butterflies who shiv-
cred in thin garments, though the day was
more like midwinter one than many days
that we had during December and January.
Two of my patients came to their deaths
from colds caught during Easter week, colds
which resulted in grip, grip in pneumonia,
and pneumonia in the cemetery.
1.-THE autocrat OF all the Russias is charged
with sending every year thousands of his
subjects to the scaffold or to Siberia without
trial, hut he is far less cruel to those under
his authority than is the throneless despot
whose DEGREES are periodically issued through
the milliners and modIstes, and always ac-
cepted without murmur.."
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
FIGHTING THE FLESH.
Celia Logan's Second Letter on How
to Get Rid Of Adipose.
PROPER WEIGHT OF THE BODY.
Simple Measurements for the Physically
Beautiful Woman.
FIRST STEPS TO PREVENT OBESITY
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPArcH.j i

WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPATcH.i
All healthy babies are fat, but infancy is
the only period of life VIXEN that condition
is natural. The adiposity of infants is
maintained by their milk diet, and gradu-
ally disappears when weaving commences
and their digestive organs are required to
assimilate other food.
If the excessive fat continues after the
child begins to walk it should be subjected
to dietetic measures. At the same time no
one should he skin and bone only. The
body needs some fat to draw upon in dis
ease when the normal supply of nourish-
ment is cut off. which brings to US the ques-
tion of what is the exact provision made by
nature for normal production of fat in the
human frame.
Figures for Children and Mon.
A child in the 4th year should be three
feet high and weigh more than % pounds;
in the 9Th year, 81 feet high and weigh AZ
pounds; in the 9Th year, four feet high and
56 pounds in weight; at IL years five feet in
height and 70 pounds in weight is fair
average.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

pelerine is used to good advantage is one in
white lace over buttercup silk. The lace
robe is made with a train, and the bodice is
carelessly crossed and draped in soft folds.
apparently fastened only by the silk sash
and its big rosette. The pelerine is of the
pleated Anne of Austria style, just reach
ing to the shoulders, where it Is puffed into
high epaulettes. For simpler gowns the
Injured deiaines and silks are charming and
infinite in variety, but they are always made
mp with lace.
A beautiful combination is shown in one
of the illustrations. 1t is of pale cornfower
blue bengaline, and crepe de chine just a
nuance darker. The draping, shoulder
putfs and sash are OF crepe de chine; brown
ish purple pompous finish the bag ends of
the latter. The fancy cn-work straw hat
is cream-colored and trimmed with full
bunches Of cornfowers nesting in coquiIles
OF lace; the same flowers are placed under
the brim in front,
At the opening of the new manege in the
Galerie des Machines yesterday, noted a
few striking toilettes. One of these was in
cloth the lighter shade of the cornfower.
The skirt was trimmed with straight verti-
cal lines of gold braid, long and short
one alternately, and each fastened at the
top by round gold button. Over this skirt
were plain redingote panels. and at the top
OF each hung slightly full bag panier
lined with white faille, the seam
being hidden under girdle of
gold and colored stones that ended
at the edge of the paniers in hanging golden
drops. The tightfitting bodice showed the
finest line of white faille waistcoat, and
had a trimming OF braid and buttons put on
in VS., with the point downward. The
sleeves were almost the most noticeable feat
M Af f,,i1 nd trb
of blue cloth, falling open on the inner side,
to show an under sleeve of white faille. em-
broided in gold. The high cuffs were
trimmed to match the bodice, and the
straight collar fastened with a gold horse
shoe over the inner one OF white.
A simpler gown in make was Of white
cloth, with an absolutely plain skirt and an
open coat, with long battIemented basques
edged with a narrow byzantine braid. The
broad belt, or corselet, and straight collar
were Of old Byzantine embroidery, and be-
tween the two appeared gathered vest of
white crepe de chine. The sleeves were big
each front of the coat were small gold
buttons. A dress that excited good
deal of interest wins more peculiar than
pretty. The back and one side
were in black lace over heliotropc, and the
other side in heliotrope and cream striped
silk. The lace side was tight-6tting, the
skirt and sleeves ornamental with cream
ribbons embroidered I'M heliotrope. The
striped side folded to the figure under q
pointed ribbon belt and draped up on to
the opposite shoulder with q crescent
brooch. The back of the waist was gath
cred into the waistband. The last dress I
noticed was a very quiet one in gray cloth,
with appliQucs Of black jetted lace, made
with long waistcoat
The maleiials for evening dresses are cx-
quisite, but need letter almost to them
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03


gold braiding, and third In light blue and
mimosa yellow. Yellow is to be very much
worn in all sorts of shades, mimosa; lemon,
buttercup, orange and occur de lys. and
will be specially used in Innings and slips
under lace robes. Blue, heliotrope mauve,
and even pink are all to be lined with it,
and the effect is good when the suitable
tones are found.
For more serviceable dresses nothing
would seem to be more fashionable than
gray in every imaginable shade, and next to
gray come beige and light browns Iron
gray hairy stuffs, so hairy as to look almost
furry, are made quite plain, with the fan
pleats behind, which still appears to be the
prevailing style for the backs of morning
dresses. The bodice OF such q gown would
be plain and tight-ftting, with the long
added basQues, which in one form or an
other appear in nearly every garment. The
sleeves would be only moderately high, and
would button at the wrist with cut-steel but
tons to match those that fasten the dress in
front. Steel-gray cheviots are made in the
same way, often with band of the same
material cut on the cross round the foot put
on with narrow satin heading.
The dress shown in the initial is intended
for an afternoon reception or a dinner
party. Ths bodice can be silk or velvet
hand br Nl'ed or trimmed with passemente-
RE. The inner vest is chiffon, which is
brought out in a straight full fall to the feet
The skirt is silk ard the train may be silk
or velvet. 1t is very slightly long. II the
sleeves are velvet the puffs must be silk
A charming walking costume is composed
Of plain pearl-grsy mousseline-de-laine,
made with a plain sheath skirt, fan -pleated
at the back over a silk foundation. A hem
four inches wide is turned up on
the right side and put on with
pale pink piping. The sleeves and
front are OF mousseline-de-laiue dotted with
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
WOMAN Arb HER MISSION.

Brooke Herford's Beautiful Couplet sAp-
piled to tho Convention Female.
One OF the tendetest bits of poetry ever
written is,Brooke Herford's couplet on "An
Ideal Woman"
And in her wake the beaten track appears
A little greener wi, ere her feet have trod.
That this is true individually there is no
doubt, but is the truth of the couplet applica-
bic to all the many conventions and meet
ings of women that are held? Is the world
better for them? Theodore Parker answered
such query by calling the errors, which
crop forth in assem- plies that have noble pur-
poses in view, 'The dust from the wagon
wheels bringing h4me the harvest."
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
NO ONE SLAVES LIKE THE WIFE
The Sad Experience OF a College Professo,
Who Engaged a Cook.

The Sad Experience OF q College Professor
Who Engaged Cook.
Man always needs cook. A college pro-
fessor, bereft of his wife, who had done his
honsework for years, engaged q cook at
greater wages than had been the allowance
he gave his wife. He bargained for pune
tuality. 81 must have my dinner ut 12," he
stated. 81 can't get it ready till
/ o'clock" she answered. He yielded
and changed the hour of his
college recitation. The next week she de-
manded a new stove, as the old one was too
low .'It costs too much, he expostulated.
81 cau't afford to hurt my back" she re-
piled.
He knew it was not SO easy to find an
other good cook, and bought the stove. A
week later she desired him to send tor the
carpenter that the back staircase might be
changed. Then be dismissed her and be-
came boardcr. Which was the cheaper
thing to do?
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
A man whose height is

A large boned man will weigh somewhat
more than one whose bones are small, even
though the height be the same-a raw boned
Hebrew.
How should man who observes that he
is losing his slenderness ascertain whether
he is growing too large? Let him measure
his chest and waist and compare the figures.
If the circumference of his waist exceeds
that of his chest then he is verging upon
corpulency, and it he desires to preserve
his symmetrical proportions he should at
once begin to train down. This is the only
time when obesity is easily handled, the old
proverb of IAN ounce of prevention" being
"worth ponnd of cure" being true in this
ipstance
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
Running the Best Exercise,

A "traiuer," WHIP has had 80 years ex-
perience observing lads and men training,
declares running INF the open air to be the
best of all exercisesl He recommends 'all-
around" work, such as boxing, handbalI,
jumping aud single and parallel bar exer-
else, these. in his Judgment. being adapted
to most naturally develop the body as a
whole. and normally develop the exterior
muscles while at the same time beneftiug
the vital organs -
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
DRESSES OF A ROMAN BEAUTY.
sara Bernhardes Wardrobe Is Insignificant
When Compared With Them.

Sara Bernhardts WARDROBE Is InSigu1ncans
When Compared With Them
We read OF Sara Bernhardt bringing with
her on her present tour to this country 45
trunks containing no fewer than hundred
gowns. That seems to US wardrobe of ex-
traordlnary wastefulness and luxury, saws
the New York Ledger, but it would have
seemed only meager and shabby outfit to
the great Roman ladies of the first century
of our era.
We are told on trustworthy authority
that the dresses alone OF Lolita Paulina,
the rival of Agrippina, were valued at 81 :
666. 900. Pliny relates that he saw her at a
plain citizens bridal supper literally COW
cred with pearls and emeralds worth 40, :
600, 900 sesterces, equivalent in our money
to 81, 800. 900.
Another lavish beauty Of neatly the same
epoch, Lolita Sabna. never travelled with
out train OF 800 she asses, so that she might
not miss her mornings bath of asses milk.
By the side of the Roman prototypes the
most extrsvagant women of our own day
seem thrifty.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

selves, and the little additions to dress,
such as rufies, jabots, pelerines, etc., are
more numerous than ever, and prettier into
the bargain.
The bronze chip hat shown herewith has
its brim strengthened with straw lining
of o similar color. A ruche of green gauze
ribbon, narrowly edged with black velvet,
surrounds the crown and is tied in bows in
front and back. Bunches OF anemones in
msuve and yellow shades are held by the
front and on the back of the crown.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

hung pendant OF grey and gold
beads. The yoke of the second was
in dark brown velvet. with the usual Medi-
els collar, and was embroidered in q deli
cate tracery OF dull and bright gold. The
pelerine hung straight and was in biscuit
colored cloth, with pinked-out edges and a
silk lining shot with blue and pink.
An indoor dress or teagown in which the
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
AGood Little Boy.

Atlanta Const1tution.1
"Ma." said Bobby, sis it wrong for little
boys to tie tin Kettles to dogs tails?"
Decidedly wrong, Bobby. hope you
never do such thing vas that
"No. indeed, ma, replied Bobby, en-
phatioally. "All I Do is to hold the dog. /"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

the diamonds is stud and long pointed
drop of crystal, nearly every color possible
being represented. The bodice was TO have
tabled basques over q stomacher jeweled in
the same manner.
A tavorite way of using embroidery is in
yokes, either square, round or pointed, with
the pelerine-like frills surrounding them.
The square yokcs are more often used in
dresses with the bodices gathered on with a
little heading, the round and pointed ones
appear liz outdoor pelerines. These will be
the most fashionable garments possible and
will be even introduced in lace on house
dresses aud tea-gowns. Generally speaking
the outdoor ones will be made of the same
stuff as the dress, and will be varied in style.
Some Of them hang down straight, some are
flung up on one shoulder, and some form q
jabot narrowing off into nothing on each
SIDE of the yoke. The two last styles serve
to snow of the Innings which are excessively
delicate and carefully chosen.
There are two examples of outdoor pele-
rines. The first is in browniSh grey cloth
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
woman whose height is

This table is for women between 20 and 45
years of age. After that they become
heavier. A woman should weigh but.little
less than a man in proportion to her height.
The bust of perfectly formed woman should
measure ten inches more than her waist. If
the waist is laced in smaller than this the
abdomen is pressed down and the bosom up.
causing both to billow out to an unnatural
size and COMPRISING the waist too much for
either health or BEAUTY
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

shot with pink,
and lines with
lemon = colore d
silk. The yoke is
ric b ly embroi-
dered in grey and
, gold, and the
) fronts of the cloth
form jabots. The
collar is a Medicis
entirely of enl-
broidery, lined
with yellow. The
close-ftting skirt,
over which il was
to be worn, was
ornamented in the
same way and had
long, narrow, en-
broidered pockets,
from each of which
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
What a Tailor Has to Say.

I have been informed by a fashionable
tailor that for a man the waist Measurement
and the inside trousers seam should be the
same That is, if the trousers leg is 50 in
ches. the waist should be about 80 inches.
A margin of one or two inches does
not matter much, and will be usually found
in the case of very tall or very short men.
This ratio OF the waist and leg holds good in
ordinary cases.
A woman whose height is
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

ch arm ng. For
dressy gowns the
colcrs are most deli
cate, sud the CON-
binations, though
daring, are gener-
ally artistic. Pearl
gray faced cloth,
with a broad band
of vieux rose round
the bottom of the
skirt. with gallon
and passementerie
or stone embroidery
recalls the two
colors in one ar
rangement. while
)lnother is in hello
trope, with a pale
eao ,roan h,1I c.I
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03
A PARIS FASHION LETTER,

Delicate Colors the Rule This Season
Some Charming Designs for Evening and
out-ofDoor Gowns-Bewitching Mini-
nery-Eau Droideries Used in Abundance
Feminine Eancies.
PARIS, April 22-The new materials for
Ipring and summer wear are as q rule YnoSt
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1891-05-03

Before the natural shape of a woman has
been distorted, not to say deformed by tight
lacing and maternity, her abdomen. when
she stands straight, should protrude very
little if any, beyond the front line of her
thighs. The abdomen should never be
L. L., tLoh hxof oh chnnl1 nro
The united opinion. [volume] (Bradford, Vt.) 1881-1970, 1891-10-02
The Russians Good Linguists.

Charles Emory Smith, United States
minister to Russia. speaking of Incl.
dents Of his residence abroad, said:
II should say that the Russians were
a contented people, and | may add, from
what saw, the stories Of the nihilistic
societies are greatly exaggerated. OF
course, it must be remembered that !
am judging only from cities like st.
Petersburg, whose population is 1,0Oo,-
600, and Moscow, whose population is
100000 while the total population Of the
country is something over 100, OOO, 0OO."
Ibid you find any difficulty with the
languagey' he was asked.
II did not have to try" said Mr.. Smith
with smile. Russian children general.
~ have German nurse, an English gov
erness, and French tutor, so that by the
time that they appear in society they
are wasters Of these languages, The
car himself speaks English remarkably
we'll. "-Philadelphia Times. 4
The united opinion. [volume] (Bradford, Vt.) 1881-1970, 1891-10-02
KEEP YOUR EYE ON
.IAIN e

Send to the undersigned for pamphlets telling you
about Bains Puce, Sound and the state Of WASH
ington. Fpge Sound offers greater inducements for
capital tran any other point il the VERDI you do not
believe US ask some whe has been here Population
Of Blaine 1889. rs; 1890. sIoo. Complete system Of
electric lights; water works; ten miles Of twevefoot
de walk; six miles graded streets; two national banks
The future por, Of entry between two great nations
Best andlocked harbor in Puget Sound. Has four Of
the larges, Trans. Continental Railway The Canadian
Pacific andGre Northern Railways arc just compile
ted here. The Northern Pacific is only IS miles away
and Nth the Union Pacific is coming fast and
money can build. Now is the time to buy lots and
blocks and realize on the great rise in value.
We are the largest owners Of the TOWNSHIP We offer
- the public portion Of our property. Lots range
from SIS to $780, Lots five to ten ocks from water
front, SIS and $Ioo; $40 extra. Choice lots in
aide eight blocks from post Office $780, $iss, $780, $soo
and$aso. Corners $as extra All these choice bus.
ne's residence and in any other city Of equal mpor
tancs they would bring $500 to $500. These prices
ubject to advance without notice.
The united opinion. [volume] (Bradford, Vt.) 1881-1970, 1891-10-02

Fashionable Colors Of the Season.
The French color card has green in six
shades for the leading color, beginning
with the pale cigale green worn all sum.
mer, and gradually darkening to rich EN-
erald hueA To these are added later two
yellowish green shades, which daring
French milliners employ as the outside OF
\ bonnet with the. interior faaings of olear
emerald green, 4 band or binding OF Jet
making the conjunction possible. Experi-
enced milliners adopt readily the green
shades that combine best with beige and
brown, AZ che palest beige tints and golden
tan promise to be used for autumn and
winter costumes. There are no new gray
shades, silver, nickel and platinum being
repeated from last year. Soft drab tints,
warmer than the cold grays, are called
chahois and molgache, and these will rival
the blondine, castor and beige browns In
felt. cloth and velvet for hats and cos
tunes. The coral pink and salmon already
in vogue at Newport are shown with
deeper Spanish pink. known as Velasquez
Yellow is much used with jet and lace.
Bright vermilion and coQuelicot red are
equally commended. With black trimmings
TO- subdue them. The reddish purple
shades SO long in vogue are called chrysan-
themum this season. The new blues are
gray tinted, as faience, metal and telegraph
blue, and the yieux blue Of last winter Is
seen again. Car blue Is almost as bright
as the cornfiower shade now worn, and the
darkest navy blue is brought out with
much light gray or pearl coiored trim
Bazaar. ,-.:-snA
<1vxe Si.s.
The united opinion. [volume] (Bradford, Vt.) 1881-1970, 1891-10-02
The international City.
Gateway Of 2 Great Nations.
Where Commerce Moves
with Tide and Rail

TERMs; Ons.third down; balance one year In equal
monthly payments. Now Is the chance Tor nvesscrs,
teachers. farmers, clerks and every body who cannot
come here, 70 nake money You get exactly the same
'srms % gwen At cur oficss here and in Blaine No
deviation by RENTING dollars BY draft registered
letter or express, q once, will secure you bargain
and the best unsold lots will be selected for you Iyou
deelay Il may be 100 late -, $50
REFRRENcEs; Every bank and business firm in
Seatte; washington National Bsnk; Hon. E. A. Graves
President and Ex-Assisant U. s. treasurer; Ex.Cov-
eInor Eugene Semple, Seattle; First Nations. Bank;
H blame National Bank Cham Of Commerce, Blaine
OFFICE OF L. H. GRIFFITH REALTY
AND BANKING COMPANY.
Paid IN Capital, 100000
r. SEATTLE, WASH, March II, 1891.
Mgr Flour City Nail Bank, Minneapolis:
Dear Sir: From personal acquaintance with the
9ifcers and directors Of the New England Land and
Harbor Improvement Co., of Seattle, Wash, / take
great pleasure stating that they men ofenergy and
integrity, and that feel justified in recommending them
% the public patronage Further than this, Believe
they have the disposition well the ability to fully
carry out all agreements they may make
L. H. GRIFFITH, Pres.
NEW ENGLAND. LAND!ANDSHARB
IXPRov1llENTlC0.
OCCIDENTAL Blk. <6-ry SEATTLE, WASH
The united opinion. [volume] (Bradford, Vt.) 1881-1970, 1891-10-02
s!E5lA:S{'!'HiI9afH2s nf
STYLES IN DRESS SKIRTS.

The Newest PArisisn skirt illustrated
and Described.
A new skirt. known a. the umbrella
or "extinguisher." on account OF its shape.
and especially suitable for walking cos
tunes. IL the invention.of Paris modists.
IT exactly molds the figure below the
waist and round the hips by means OF
few darts, the whole Of the fullness being
thrown at the back, where 1t IL arranged
into . quadrupls box plat It's cut Ia
simple, a. shown by the diagram. which
displays the half OF the skirt, and the whole
being made Of single piece. with one seam
only, the widest materials alone can be