Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1891-07-25
No. ~

up plaits, including hip stay, one bour.
first press, three-quarters of an hour: plsit
pockets, one hour; basting in canvas and
button stay, one hour
But there are many other things to be
done with a stylishly made garment of this
kind to suit the fastidious, and the log pro-
yides for seven distinct @scuts and puffs,"
for twelve special kinds of edges, ten sorts
of seams, FIVE different pockets, eight de-
tails regarding sleeves, twenty-five peculiar
facings, twenty-six sundries and ten bast-
ings, making total of something like 146
items that may be called into play in the
making up q superior frock or dress coat.
A well cut morning or shooting coat goes
through at least twenty-five processes,
which takes twenty-seven.a and half hours,
without mentioning extras, of which there
are five. Then there are charges for edges,
seams, gun patches and basting that are
distinct enough and yet bewildering in
their number
Lounge jackets do not seem to give quite
so much trouble, and allow us breathing
sorbed in the making, with seventeen items
for extras, seams and bssting.
COAT AND JACKET LOGS"
The inner jacket seems at first sight q
mean sort of garment that gives merely the
trouble of a couple of hours to make up,
but We catch sight of an ominous line
which says, can other extras same as frock
or dress" The Chesterfield or ulster seems
to absorb time as freely as it does rain
There are twenty processes to begin with
which take twenty nine hours, and there is
a light selection of about fifty-nine extras,
not to speak of "other extras as per lounge
and frock coats" and Blasting as per
r1anr vxr-ss1 81 g. L..
new shape.
Covert coats start of with as many proc
esses as Chester6elds, and there are plenty
in the hunt coat and the Eton jacket TO dis
tract the student of the log. Jeames' gar
ments and capes, the postillion's jacket,
and also the jacket of the boy in buttons,
are no less varied than the rest.
The trousers log shows 14l different pro-
esses, and is simply, in the language of
Mr.. Richard Swiyeller, "An unmitigsted
staggerer." The log was framed for gen
eral adoption throughout the trade.
The log deals with breeches, pantAloons
and knickerbocker breeches; with leggins,
CATERS and spsts, and there are special
logs devoted TO repairs and to leggings,
which are instructive and interesting.
Nothing is missed by our comprehensive
compilers, not even bishops CATERS. A
start" of eleven hours is allowed for these
somber adornments, and one hour for
tongues. Three hours are set down for
the making of anklets with three holes.
"An other extras are charged same as leg
GINS" for which eleven hours are re-
quired.
"Pantaloons start same as hreeches."
SEVERAL KINDS OF ''JoGs"
There is special knickerbocker log, and
particulars for alteration of knickerbocker
breeches." 1t is proper tribute of respect
to masters that servants breeches or pan
falcons start one hour less than gentle
mems.
There is an extra ''Breeches and Breechss
Alteration Log" and a Kniekerbocker Al
teration Log, and particulars relating TO
"overalls," cotton or flannel drawers"
''long kneecaps, center overalls, or mud
boots, and "short kneecaps"
Eight and a half hours are set down in
the Vest Log" for an ordinary wAistcost,
with a choice of sixty-one extras. Gents
double breasted vests, " dress vests, "cas-
sock vests" and FLANNEL under" would
seem to absorb much time in making, and
there are twenty-nine hours, without ex-
trss, allowed for a livery vest. There are
two machine logs" dealing with work
that is Inschined, and divers other items
in this wonderful production, in which
nothing has been overlooked-not even
/ "shams"
A prominent west end master tailor has
| pronounced the list 10 which we refer
| (which contains at q fair calculation some
thing like ], 200 different items of charges)
"to be as perfect a masterpiece of a jour
neyman tailor's log as could well be pre-
pared"