The critic. (Washington, D.C.) 1890-1891, 1891-03-19
rrRRArrx POINTS.
How TO select aud Boil Diamond
Backs.


How TO select and Boil Diamond
Backs.
ysiie Crgfos W ne Chicago Neics.
A. matter Of fact any tortoise or terra
Pin which can be boiled soft can be made
into a Ialatabic stew. All terrapins
are coed. but excellent above all others
are those whore the upper shells
have a centre line uf sharply defined dia-
mund shaped elevations; upon the under
shell there u ysllowish tint and the long,
nafrow head is generally drawn close TO
the body In n series of thick folds Of the
meta stin. and the legs are short and
covered With grcenish-black skin. Also
~ their price shall We know them, for
q doxcn viii range in cost from $50 TO 500.
The season y during the winter, the size
ffum slx inches upward TO eight aud one
viii provide n dish for four persons.
smaller varieties cost less, and 'sliders."
~ large river icrrapin, can be bought for
NeIy much less. An excellent stew can
bs made from the common wood terrapn
W tortoise. The only requirement being
ihe boillnr to tenderness. The prepara-
tiun - al kinds is the same; upon their
removal from the shells the fate OF the dish
tirlsn,ls fer II the sail N broken the bitter
favor destroys the entire dish.
The terrapin, when brought to the
Kitchen. -hOiild be washed In cold water.
ior hoiling they should be- plunged into
plenty Of boiling water for about five
mlnmtes or until the skin Of the legs
begins ~ Wrinkle aud loosen, so that II
can be rubbed on with a wet cloth. Then
rlh the icTrnpn again over the fire In
enough boiling water to lust cover them,
with a teaspoOnful of salt 10 each quart,
aud boil them steadily until the shells
begin ta pari at the sides where they are
icined BY two serratcd e'lges between the
lore aud bind legs.
fhe time win vary according to the
tenderness a the shell. California ter
rhJin have been boiled tender In less than
half an hour some wood tOrtoises have
required two bours. The safest way Is 10
BOIL the iefrnInn and remove II from the
sheli the day before Il Is needed for the
table, or. NJ least. TO boil II In the forenoon
Il i i 10 be- used ai a night dinner or in
the evening.
To Dress Terrapsn After Boiling.
After the terrapin Is so boiled that the
two shells Gan be easily pulled apart a
smart wrench will separate them, leaving
the entire body lying bound 70 the top
shell by slight ligaments, which can easily
be cut with a small, sharp knife. The
liquid that flows from the terrapIn should
be saved. With the same sort Of knife
separate the legs from the mass Of intcs-
lines, cut the egl,s and the liver away also,
and the long, white giblcts, II II Is 10 be
used, wrap all these parts In wet cloths 10
prevent drying a. each one is being pre-
Pared for the stew. The brownish mem
bfane strips readily from the eggs.
The claws should be cut from the tips
of the feet. The gall is a small dark
gfcenish bag imbedded IN one side OF the
liver: the liver should be held over a bowl
or dish and the gall-bag carefully cut out
with enough % the liver attached TO pre-
vent breaking. the rest being divided in
half-inch bits 40 that Il may be equally
distributed throughout the stew. The
eggs should also be ,proportionatelly
divided. The old.time Southern cooks
also used the white giblets, cutting them
in half-inch pieces.
Cream and brown s,ews Of Tcrrspin.
After the terrapin meat is prepared bv
this careful removal from the shell, and
the broth and liquid portion saved, Il will
he ready 10 heat IN the chosen sauce. For
cream sauce, mix together over the fire
a heaping Tablespoonful each OF butter
and flour for each pint Of sauce, and.
| when smoothly blended, stir In gradually
half pint Of the liquid and half q pint
| Of cream. Put IN the meat Of one terra
| pin To heat, u rather high seasoning Of
| salt, cayenne pepper and little nutmeg
| or mace, the yolks OF four raw eggs
smoothly mixed, with little Of the sance
added Just before serving, to prevent
curdliDg.
Il is at this stage that the special recipes
direct the addition OF glass of the best
Madeira and tablespoonful OF lemon
| Juice. The brown stew Is made entirely
| of the terrapin broth, and the butter and
-four are Drowned before the broth II
| mixed with them, otherwise the process
Is the same in all respects.