Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-02-14
From The Evening Stars Travelling Commissioner.

- tourner in this part of Peru TO miss seeing
Cuzco, the ancient capital Of the Incas, though
the journey thereto is exceedingly wearisome
and rarely undertaken by travellers ''of the
feminine persuasion" Indeed, 1 doubt II
any Anglo-Saxon females but ourselves have
ever visited the place-unless, perhaps, Mrs.
Agassiz may have done so when she assisted
her husband so bravely in his South American
researches. However the journey is neither so
long nor 30 difficult as the 340-mile expedition
we made not long ago on mule-baek over all
the ranges Of the Andes to eastern Bolivia.
In going to Cuzco ones plans must be care
fully matured in advance. making all possible
provision against accidents and bitches in the
program. One must be sure that the rainy
season is well over. for there are many bridge
less streams to be forded that become impassa-
BILE torrents in which men and beasts are swept
away during the annual time of rain. OF course
one or two foreigners can badly make the pill
grimage by themselves with safety, and the
average tourist is strongly advised to do as we
did, viz, to engage the services, as guide and
escort, Of Mr.. E. c. Hanfieldt, well-known
Arequipanean. who makes business trips to
Cuzco regularly each month knowing every
yard Of the route and all the people there
abouts. he can tell one exactly what to do and
what to avoid. and-more important stlll-will
supply suitable animals and honest servants,
in securing for himself.
NO HOTELS on THE ROUTE.
The cost of the round trip, including railway
fare, horses, mules and all expenses en- route,
not counting whatever provisions one chooses
10 carry, is about S25 per capita and the time
occupied each way varies from five to seven
days, according to ones endurance in the
saddle. There are no hotels along the route,
and one must depend upon private hospitality,
which is freely accorded to those who bring
letters Of recommendation. Every village has
its Tampa. however, similar to the inns of Egypt
In Marys time, wherein the animals are fed and
sheltered, and where one might manage to put
up in case of stern necessity, depending upon
ones own supply for food, or foraging among
the neighbors; but it is always easy to obtain
introductlons to the various cures and the
families of well-to-do farmers, and through
them to be more comfortably housed.
TO OFFER MONEY WOULD BE AN INSULT.
In providing the outfit for this journey, one
should not forget that to offer money in pay
ment for food and lodging outside of public
house would be resented as an insult by these
hospitable people; and therefore one must go
stocked with gifts in order to get even with
ones entertainers Bottles of wine are always &C
eeptable, also butter tea, canned goods and other
similar Injuries which are rare in the interior.
Eggs are cheap and plenty, but though there
are cows on all the wayside farms, milk is I'M
attainable. In any case, enough bread to last
the entire trip should be taken from Arequipa,
because, though hard and dry as the surround
ing rocks 1T is infinitely preferable to the black
unleavened Jumps of dough in use among the
country people. Timed beef, ham. fish and fruit
are indispensable, with condensed milk and boxes
of English biscuits or Crackers" as Ameri-
cans call them. As suffers greatly from
thirst along the road. the water being warm
and not always obtainable it is best to prepare
every morning the days supply of cold tea,
mixed with claret and sugar. What little but
ter is to be found in this region is odd enough
TO deserve paragraph If one is not a suffi-
he must pay almost its weight in silver for a
pale, lardy sort of lubricator. wrapped ND in
bladders in square packages weighing about
two pounds each Being thus Theoretically
sealed it will keep" indefinitely if the air is
not let IN, but when once opened it proceeds to
become nasty with marvellous rapidity and in
n days time will nil the air with an odor be-
side which Limburger cheese is as altar of
roses
FATHER TOM An AMERICAN
Rv The av :, mo-, 10, Re- -. g -.,o..;
80 -, NJ e aus ~ nen'ion
.nas oul out'ei supply as wen as letters OF IN
troduetion to all the priests and cures on the
road to CuZco. were furnished US by one Of the
sandaled and gray eowled monks of the
Recoleta. known far and wide as LEATHER Ton, ;;
and incidentally i NAV tell Won sometbino
about this familiar Character of ireouina' Tbs
rood-looking wbite-baired fr;ar cnnv ~,
seventy years old brides himself greatly on
being IAN American, though his face is as un-
ln se lrIsp as ms oro8ue. Known In the
!. Tbomas Ksse,n 80 n. ioras =, III a. ralae
that MANY wears ago in New York he seized
the elder Vanderbilt as coacbman- Afterward
he drifted to San Francisco. where he accnmu-
lated considerable property. When about forty
wears of age he WAS 40 iii with fever tb.t he
death was Rourlv expected and in a Inc;d me-
val he PRAYED TO the yirgiu for restoration
promising in return for health To devote The
remainder of his life to her service
a. a friar Contrary To all exnectations
he Immediately began 10 msnd "a
regarding his recovery as dine 10 the direct in
terposition of the boIv mother he al oncs o.
summed the orav cowl and bemnen oirdle 81 H.
Francescans- II i. sometimes ratber bard Tnas
for the Door old man because-tboneh il ia .;
he still owns enough alifornia nropertv In msin-
tain him in comfort-he must take HE t,,rr
with the rest in begging from door 10 door for
the Recoleta brotbe9hood snbsist entireIv NO.
CHARITY He must never have more than ~
cents in money about him, must never wear
hose, though his bare feet In their ox-hide
sanuais are someutnes irost oitten when he
sss;c,aS nS .1'',a, " aI VIC SA anu
- 49, -. I;s.a.s~ Ne. "~.A s man
andra,S W. -. oe h W .1i nuuian
iool;n-, -, -. ~. -. ~. an merry
..T.Le len Ges 10 eNiss th"n s'ocAiheiess
- .;,i LOn' Al LIS eo"i'c sr"! gown anu
IVY sHe-
NO BEDS OF EASE