Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-04-11
SPRING STYLES FOR MEN.
The Correct Thing in Dress for the Coming
Season.


Season.
From the New York World.
notable feature Of the spring fashions for
| men is the tendency toward lighter colors
The deep-black effects which were so promi-
nent last season are now in the background,
and will not meet with any favor among good
dressers. 1t is claimed that the transition is
significant as showing decided leaning toward
English ideals Some of New Yorks exclusive
tailors who set the pace for the Beau Brum-
mels on this side Of the pond contend that the
tints and patterns Of mems clothes should be
decided upon in London since the best clothes
are of English make, claiming only for America
the prerogativc of shaping and constructing
the best garments in the world.
The double-breasted sack suit introduced last
season will be popular this spring. but it will
be made in materials Of new design and color
The most stylish of the fabrics is of fawn tint
midway between a brown and gold, with coat.
vest and trousers alike. This suit should be
worn without q top coat. In order to secure
the effect of contrast neck scarf Of pronounced
hue and red-tan gloves should be worn with it.
Another effective material and one which will
doubtless be the vogue of Easter, is a Scotch
plaid of large figure with plenty of brown and
stone blue in it. The coat should close with
three buttons, and both coat and vest should
have O wide opening at the throat for the sake
OF the neck scarf, which requires full display.
The edges of the coat are hemstitched and all
the pockets are covered by flaps. The coat
is designed to fit rather loosely, and in the back
is slightly on the box order
The fate of tho double-breasted cutaway coat
is settled beyond doubt. notwithstanding the
efforts of ultra-fashionable men to bring it into
popularity. 1t appears this season in a greatly
improved form, and the prophets of fashion
say it will either triumph or fall into state of
innocuous desuetude. That it is not suitable
for business wear is conceded by all. vet. for
this very reason, its claims for adoption as a
promenade and demi-dress garment are the
more strongly urged. Fault is constantly found
with Americans for lack of discrimination in
the etiquette of dress Indeed it is said of them
| that they have but two garments-the sack
| coat and the swallow ail-while English
men affect no less than four styles
of day dress in addition to the con-
ventional evening costume. The most stylish
| material for the double-breasted cutaway is a
| worsted of rough finish. The coat is made
| with deep lapels faced to the seam with silk
| and the collar is large and loose fitting The
| edges are bound with silk braid of narrow
measure. The collar has a medium roll. The
skirts of the coat are an inch longer than the
| single-breasted cutaway and two inches shorter
| than those of the Prince Albert The coat
| should be worn with trousers of a light shade
and with fancy vest Under no circumstances
| should the coat, trousers and vest be cut from
the same piece.
The jauntiest thing in the way Of business
apparel is the single-breasted cutaway sack suit
| in English check design of large pattern. The
trousers are Of medium width with latitude for
the display of taste in the direction of fullness.
| The coat is finished with hemstitch and closes
| with three buttons. The top button is well up
on the breast and the lapels are rounded and
narrow. Only small portion Of the necktie
is displayed. The side pockets Of the coat
require lapels- The favorite materials fo- this
suit are worsteds and cheviots. and the popular
color is gray with stripings in black or dark
| brown.
1t is not every man who can wear light
colored top coat, yet fashion DEGREES that that
is the correct caper for spring. The decree is
| ell the more peremptory If dark-colored coat
be worn beneath 1t. The fashionable fabric is
| a worsted of wide-walo and the coat should be
| faced with silk to the bottom. As a matter of
| fact spring top coats are not supposed to be
buttoned at all, hence the propriety of the
great display of silk lining. Top coats this
| season are shorter than those worn for several
| years past. They should not extend beyond a
| point three inches above the knee. With a
| lght-colored spring overcoat should be worn a
dark cutaway coat, lght-coiored trousers and
| fancy vest of bright hue. Instead of sameness
| in the coloring OF dress harmonious contrast is
| the rule this season. With an overcoat silk
hat should be worn. If derby is used it should
| be black or, at any rate, of dark shade.
In neckwear there is a wide range for the
exercise OF taste, but the prevailing colors are
| light. One OF the most fashionable shades is
an electric blue bordering on the pale gray.
| Another is heliotrope. The shapes of neck
scarfs have undergone notifications without
radical changes. The four-in- hand and Ascot
of moderate dimensions are the most fashion,
able. The large puff scarf of year ago has
| been reduced in size. 1t is now only a second
favorite. For full dress wear the plain lawn
bow is in the lead, although black cravats con-
| tinue to have many admirers. The general
rule is that all neck scarfs should be tied by
| hand.
One Of the new shades in gloves is a gray
blue. 1t is intended for the devotees of ex-
| IRENE fashion. The best thing to wear, accord
| ing to the dicta of the rank and file of fashion
| designers, is tan in its various tints. Except
| for the purpose of sharp contrast with light
coiored clothing the deep red tan of last year is
| not in good form. A better shade is light yell
low bordering on old gold This will DO the
correct fashion for Easter.
There is no material change in the styles of
collars for spring. The straight standing collar
with points bent by hand is the style prescribed
| for men of taste. For men with short necks,
however. the most sensible fashion is the collar
with bent ears The rundown collar is grow
ing in favor and may be worn by all to whom
| 1t IS becoming, without criticism. Link cuffs,
with either square or rounded points, are the
| cuffs of fashion.
Never was the patent-leather shoe 30 popu-
lar as at the present time. All the indications
point to its continued popularity. For street
| wear the soles should be considerably heavier
| than those worn on full-dress occasions
| As to hats, no general rule can be set down.
The most that can be said is that those who can
wear silk hats without appearing top-heavy
| should do so.
Embroidered shirt fronts are on the wane.
| The exemplars of fashion do not wear them
| now, and all authorities agree in the opinion
| that they will not be the mode for the coming
spring. Plain piques, however, are growing
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