The Fort Worth gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-189?, 1891-05-21

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| colored velvet trimmed with three rows Of
! the gold and opal trimming with fluff OF
| black lace in the neck; the pointed girdle
| was OF the velvet edged with gold, and
| from it fell a deep founce of filmy chantllly
| lace.
| A dinner toilet for a summer watering
| place is handsomely made of black grena-
| dine strewn with bow knots of Vatican
| greer: one side of the skirt is left open and
| reveals panel of green yelled with three
| flounces of the new tieur de lis lace, which
| inpaltS a distinctive character TO the cos
tune. The vest and sleeves Of the draped
| bodice are of coarse-meshed silk nett dotted
| with star-lile clouds Of scintillating Jet and
| the lack ribbon girdle is also starred with
them
Lace designs are also seen in the summer
| fabrics. a very pretty dress has been made
Oh the new dud blue with a lace-like design
il black, the skirt edged with three tiny
bias ru'fies The bodice had a yoke of
blGch lace patterned in roses, cut up sharply
ID form V, edged with black velvet and
finished with a bow of the same. The high
full sleeves were of picturesque cut and
| finished ct the waist with deep frills of
tla"k lace.
For real everyday service, with which is
'lnited hearty that is never commonplace,
here is nothing that quite equals the pretty
challies and India silks, Although printed
fabric, the designs deserve to be painting,
so true to nature are the colorings, and so
graceful are the gorgeous flowers and
sprays that stand out against n dark back
OF ourd. Their principal charm is in their
light weight and softness. Crepon
IS largely taking the place of
crepe de chine. and comes in all the
delicate summary tints. Fashions de-
cree in the matter of long waists that from
It there is no appeal, and whether the bod
ice is pointed rounded or tabled. long it
must be. This effect must be accomplished
somehow. The naturally short WASTED,
stout woman must be made to resemble as
closely as possible the woman whose waist
line can easily be carried well down over
her hips. No matter if short, round WASTED
gowns are the ones most becoming. most
adapted to the peculiar contour of certain
girlish figures, all the same these are not to
be thought of. No matter that some coats
are cut so long that they are unpecoming to
all but very tall women, still the short,
dumpy figures will never De satisfied with
out one of these same coats.
The tailor coat is made to give this slen-
der, long-waisted effect by deep skirts set
on two inches below the belt line TO show
curve Of waist. 1t is double breasted and
closely fitted by seams strapped on the out
side. The Louis Quinze coat aims at the
same thing by continuous forms, without
cross seams on the tops, the skirts of which
are thirty o" thirtytwo inches long. The
three-quarter coat, one of the
most popular New York styles.
often seen in gray and white cloth,
has 4 narrow, deep pointed vest, with the
cross hip seam several inches below the
belt line and slanting down in front to be
continuous with bottom of vest The coat
bodice best suited TO stout women has a
deep, slender point front and back. shaped
sharply over the hips, with the coat skirts
put on over the hips and joined under the
pointed edge. Old coat bodiceS are made
more seasonable by adding large hip pieces
resembling false pockets, the upper one be-
ing short and narrower than the under one
The coat of course implies cloth or bro
cade as the material, and is not seen in cot
ton fabrics. Ginghams and muslins, it is
true, are not made up with any regard
to necessity for laundering,
but are usually made simple
To make a bingham there is no prettier
fashion than to have the foundation skirt
draped in front by three straight breadths
edged round bottom and up side with
narrow crosSway ruffie. This is slightly
draped on hips. fastening far back on each
side The back of the skirt is composed of
large close plaits. The round waist has
Il slight fuliness on each shoulder
held in small lengthwise folds at waist
The modest V neck is finished with a Byron
collar; the easy shirt sleeves have cross
way cuff that can be turned far down over
the hand or up high to show the wrist. The
skirt is fastened to waist. making light
convenient gown. Indeed, it is one of the
best summer models for dark gIngham.
The Byron collar and shirt sleeves give the
dress an air of picturesque negligence.
Many of the bingham lawns and more
sheer cotton fabrics are found stylish ac-
cessory in yoke collar made of embroidery
edged with a frilled lace, or in the use of
fchus mousseline de sole A model for
challis is fashioned with skirt that is of
five breadths slightly gathered in front,
with the French back, which sharply cores
up the center and falls in soft folds after
being laid in fan plaits at the top, which
are confined to space of five inches
This skirt is edged with two gathered
ruffies of India silk, which also form the
high sleeves and collar. The bodice is
pointed, back and front, and has side
plating eight inches deep around the lower
edge which may be of the challis or silk.
a Vshaped plastron is of crepe or India |
silk, and ribbon of some pretty contrasting
color is basted in the neck and wrists.
The summer breezes watt from the more |
northerly cities whisper that white will |
be worn during the hot months on the |
street This is somewhat of an innovation |
in that latitude, but in the South it has been |
always customary. 1t is said many street |
toilets are made for the coming season |
of white cloth, and that even now white |