The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1891-08-23
THE TAILoR-MADE GIRL.
Tho Dressnaker's Art - ITS Glory
Things Arc Not what They Seem. su,
Our Women Look Very AitrnNtlxe.

/
The Dressnaker's Art - Its Glory
Things Arc Not what They Seem. bu,
| Our Women Look Very Attractive.
what superb fRurar' exclaimed the m r
| on tho vernndn, MS q slender woman with 4
full Juno-llke bust and mpgnifcent hips
strolled down tho lawn.
What superb dressmaker she employs p
| responded the wife at his side. who had with
| woman's quick instinct noted the scrnggy
throat above tho stylish collar. the thin bony
wrist beneath Its weight OF bangles. aud drawn
her own inferences. The splendid creature
turned and passed again. The figure was tina,
OF a goddess fresh sprung from Jove himself.
The face. thin, wrinkled. and haggard. sur.
rounded by faded gray hair Tho wife smiled
malicious told you So" The man whlstlsd.
Verify. tho fashionable modiste deserves q
place among the immortals, not only Tor artis-
tic feeling In color harmonics and combine
lions. but for tho sculptor's cunning in tho
arrangement OF lines and the fashioning OF
shapes and forms. The human form divine is
only clay model 10 the artistic modiste. She
PRESSES 1t in here. packs 1t out there. shapes II
cleverly to her liking. II she doesn't by taking
thought add ono cubit to the stature Of her
model. ahe adds most convincing and decep-
tive somb iance OF 1t BY the Arrangement OF
studied lines and draperies
1t Is unfortunate that tho dressmnker's
ideals do not coincide with those OF undsputed
artistic excellence that they are inspired by
Noah's Ark wooden women rather than by
PhildeRn Goddeases and Grec1an phs and
sircxs. The dressmaker's modelling clay Is
cotton batting or horse huir. or oven the
wooden shnSings known as excelsior. With 1t
she works her miracles. Are square shoulders
tho fancy OF the moment2 All her women have
shoulders like cadets. Are hour glass figures
the thing How uniformly she produces
them! Are English waists "inI" Her women
cut English the English In slenderness. Or
are low busts desirablsp No woman comes
from her hand without tho beautiful length
OF lino from the point OF tho shoulder to
the bust curve. The only thing that really
plsases the artist Of the thimble and shears Ia
q hopelessIy stout woman. Flesh is aggree-
sive and combativo: II pressed in here it will
bulge somewhere else with disastrous effect
to symmetry But she doesn't quite lose heart
even at this. but laces It In. buttons Il down,
shuts It in a compress OF stool. and II the
model doesn't die. sends her out into tho
word locking ten pounds lighter and several
inches taller than she is-all OF which is the
stout womnn's delight.
The first thing the dressmakor insists upon
with her victim 10 the corset Of her particular
cate arrangement. which gives tho LONG. slop-
ing waist curve to thin and plump figures
alike 1t rounds out the fiat figure and binds
In the stout ono in its relentless ribs OF steel
and woman with her marvellous power OF en-
durance. adnpts herself to 1t with smiling
grace. tucks away all the vital organs that
should be about her waist wherever there
happens to be most ROOM Just as she packs
Ter OVERLOOKING summer trunk and shuts the
lid down reentlessy upon its contents learns
to get along with abou: half the allowance OF
fresh aT she should have. and is happy.
None OF the onco popular bust improvers"
OF wire. hair cloth, air cushions. or curled hair
are tolerated now. The woman with no bus.
at all is tho modistes delight. for she Is con-
WINGED that not even the Creator Himself can
design such IRvishing curves and gracious
slopes as s shs can nrYIuee With her wndding
nsddine s The nH Ssss as sss
Inc back and front Hollow chests i are mad H
to Look full and beautiful with layers Of
e she to
ere st :. f Sa,, beds Of opns
ne correeinsss q It's ent That il L yrnties Or
cotton 10 change the figure rather than dis
lurb the. 70 her. bonntlul lines OF the bodice.
in tn: ,Ps
outdoor ex ercises and the dressmaSer s smiles lies
buys more cotton and waddine and whalebone
fi last year now problem presented 1t.
self In the glove,ft.ing skirt The dressmaker
tackled it. wrestled With II; solved it. She can
,S sk soma sk " ss aas ss Ho s1S %
s sns Se.I ns GIN With the
r n haf n n a m n nj hAr
made Of fubbsr bags ed viz ar b SUE ,4ss
Void " ssevs as M
copseientio9s scruples against them. however.
not stop with hir revelations. but mnnii tests
evidences q sharp knees as ell,and ell the girls
s5s M1s S,oxs S e great
that the girls that can afford It wear tights
beneath their skirts, and on cool days BENEATH
cool. They wear Tho heavy tights more 'I shsn
and wHG delicate ss n' tH
Sd. OF he heavy tIxhts: especislly about t the
New York where these things are made, You
the wool Just where no thinks. from the meas.
fashion oren ate With the Chorus G rirs WIG
Tres. ato DON'T even pretend they weac them
it must be admitted that loss take hair is
What is worn is bettsr worn and more
DECEPTIVE thun ever before. The fancy
for llurlness and the art attained by tho
do away with the necessity Of abundant
tresses. But beware OF the loosely coilNd knot
OF hair with its escaping curls. Don't set your
affections upon its perfumed prettiness for
ten o one IT. it isn't store hair And that little
curl that always falln SO softly against the |
white neck you long to carsss might come or |
In your hand without shears and without |
agony to the head it adorns. Fake bangs have
pretty well gone out, Tor with careful cutting |
and curling most hair can DO trained INTO |
VIII be psryersely straight on warm days. and |
the naturally curly hnir Of some girl who can't |
AFFORD TO go the seashore som etimes Rdorns |
the straight haired girl who can TO-
-, False teeth arc happily on the decline. |
There is nothing so suggestive OF the arinnine
symbol OF death and decay. And. worse than |
al! the rest. they will rattle. and ore always |
beauties. and women will s}fher tortures for
tho sake o! havisg ons tooth saved.
Lot rs say nothing OF tho complexion Ye
gods! whore Is be woman who ever lets us
SEQ what the NATURAL cuttce IL likeY Tho
spotted veil has wrought the destruction oi All