The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-12-06

wide shoulder with the seam at the sleeve
head fiye-eighths of an inch further down
the arm than in the American cut. In the
latter, the sleeve head is larger than the
armhole by one and iiye-eighths inches for
an average man. The difference in the
English coat is only about seven
eighths of an inch. This makes
shoulder which. am bound to
say, does not look we'll on anybody, but
it is the real English article. The back of
this coat should he cut straighter than the
American style and in general. ii should
not fit so well anywhere. The Engiishman
is better dressed than the American, but
he does il in spite of his tailor, not with
his assistance A good manv genuine
Poole coats are altered III New York.
Some English tailors have agents in this
country who take measures of Anglo
maniacs and send the orders To the other
side. The clothing which results from
this process is not calculated To iull those
feelings of hostility which have survived
from the revolutionary war.
| have written at some length about
coats. There is nothing 10 say of vests,
except that they are cut rather short now.
ANY tailor should make a vest ut well.
But the pantaloons-oh, there's the rub.
Where is the genius who shall rise up and
tell US how to prevent bagging at the knee?
II may be amenorated, but that IS all.
When it is excessive, the fault is not III
the cut at the knee, but in what
a tailor would cali the length of
the stride. This means the extra cloth
on the back, from the knee mp, which
enables the Lex to he extended or bent
without difficulty. The necessity for this
extra cloth prevents the existence Of per
feet pair Of pantaloous. There viii always
be too much foilness at a point back of the
thigh, 10 look well " ien the wearer of the
pantalOou8 is standing erect. But this
necessity should not he made 10 excuse
wrinkles all the way down the back of the
leg. There may be- plenty OF cloth TO pre-
vent excessive bagging at the knee, and 1t
may be 50 disposed as To conceal its super
fluffy.
The man with broad hips should make
his tailor allow for that unusual beam"
but never let him run the fulluess all the
way down to the knee. This results IN
those wrinkles at the sides from the knee
up. which Is so distressing 10 man who IS
sensitive about his dress. Don't let any
tailor excuse such a cut; he - sticking 10
his system and ueglcctng the special
needs of the customer.
one OF the most common defects in
ptntaloons IS the failure to ut close to the
! . on the outside, between the knee and
ankle. man with q large calf, placed TOO
far out. viii be lucky il his trousers do not
hang two inches away from his ankle.
But there is no need OF II. The cutter can
easily put sufficient iuliness into the de-
sign to allow the leg plenty Of room, and
then narrow the pantaloons az the bottom
The difficulty here IS more often with the
man who makes up the garment. He fails
to get the inside and outside seams even.
Careful bastiug viii avoid il.
Tais sort Of leg Is usually somewhat
bowed. and 10 requires a straight inside
seam. Paata.Oous are not now cat with
any spring They fall perfectly straight
down 10 strike the shoe at point just
above where the lacing begins.
Never choose cloth that Will stretch for
pantaioous. Avoid what are called basket
goods. After you have chosen your pat
tern ask the cutter whether il Will make
up well. Try 20 get the TRUTH Out Of him
il you think there il any in him. and, II
he inspires confidence, abide oy his iudg-
ment. for there's q great deal in selecting
proper cloth il you wish weu-ftting panta-
looms