The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1891-03-08
WHAT 4 Man MAY WEAR.
Plainness and Neatness Characterize
N QE x4NQN # %a@-NA. Nsga.MMH - hi. 6A8sFtfss
tho Correct Styles for Early
Spring Wear.
There IL Not Much Change In the
Style OF Collars and
ScarfaA
In Every.Day Suits tho Demand IL for
States, Blues and Blacks, with
Plain Trimmings.

-
standards, from which the fashionably
dressed man of to-day may be iudged-one
that Of the ordinary. sensibly dressed bust
ness man, the other the dude or the anglo
maniac, he that IN his efforts to improve on
the dress of the gentleman generally leads
to absurd distortions of what is rational in
mems dress. The Haberdasher standard la
taken from the well-dressed American gem
tlcman. It is considered the world over
that none dresses 10 we'll, 90 aensibly, and
10 neatly as the American. 1t is an old
story to us that our clothes are better made,
that they At better and look better than
those worn by our European cousins. For
several years the tendency has been grow
ing towards a stronger and more defined
character of neatness in mems dress. After
trying the skin-tight trousers and then the
enormou balloon affairs, we Rave gradual
~ settled down to the happy medium. and
to-day there is nothing remarkably start
ling or obtrusive in any sense of the word
in the dress of the American gentlemen OF
1891. F
The correct collar for this season will be
turnover flaps, vulgarly known as "White
Wings" or that cut straight with an inch
spacing in front The points yield to the
natural pressure of the chin, which has the
effect OF giving o a collar with natural
turnover ends. The rundown collar will
certainly have its place, but not prominent
~ until the summer season has set in. For
spring proper, the two shapes we have
mentioned will be those most generally
seen on the well-dressed a In neck
dressings there has been quite a reaction,
which can trace its origin to the vulgar ex-
trouoo a atkaSnoA Inv tho Hn6o in hio offortu
to be INTERCHANGEABLE. The small two
and one-fourth inch four-in-hand tied
tight, and its counterfeit, the made
up knot, in neat small knots, as we'll as the
moderate size puff scarf, will be among the
correct things. The scarf should be of such
a size that q little OF the plain, white shirt
will show on either side of it. 1t il not con-
sidered good taste to cover ones entire shirt
bosom with a splashy lot of silk. The
Ascot in moderate widths, is also a good
shape. In neckwear silks, extracted twills
and simple fabrics of light texture, with
white and other neat colors with effects
that are neither large nor loud, but run to
fine, delicate traceries. small dots of wee,
little conventional designs, will be most
correct.
In suits there is quite a demand for
colors. The cutaway is shown by our best
tallors absolutely devoid of braid trim
ming, the edges being finished severely
plain. Another thing to be taken notice of
this year is that neither the coat nor the
vest is cut 80 low. as formerly. 1t, too,
The d~ouble-breasted sack coat, with three
buttons, large and generous lapels, and fiat
pockets, will also be popular; while the long
cutaway sack. which was 30 popular last
season. is destined, according to the opin-
ions OF leading t%ailors. to hold its own.
fIFnrV1arInno r11t, t1Avnrvv C~on arl ~n-l
fects either in checks or in stripes. In this
respect the assortment placed before the
public is one pre-eminently refined in color
and unobtrusive in effect.
In top coats, the London covert with
patch pockets, strapped seams. and seven
or eight rows OF stitching, made in the
usual top.coat fabric, known as covert
cloths, will be very popular. We do not
recommend the double-breasted spring
overcoat. 1t is simply unknown to the
we'll dressed man, and these great, baggy,
b~ell-shaped affairs that the dude has striven
SO hard to carry, are simply monstroslties,
and should not hang in the wardrobe of q
we'll dressed man.
The umbrella and cane of the man of the
period are severely plain. Natural wood
handles with a little silver trimming are
the most popular effects. The umbrella
should roll tight. it being desirable that it
should not be larger in circumference than
a good sized stick. Those made with smoke
buckhorn handle, of wanghee, or of cavada
wood arc still good, standard kinds.
In street gloves the browns and tans and
the raven tans are the best colors. These
are made with pique or drawn point backs
as we'll as with the new herring bone back.
They close with one or two buttons, it be-
ing noticed that metal buttons have sup
planted bone.
In cuffs, the square cornered link is the
standard shape. Ihe fashionable man of
to-day is actually limited to that one cuff.
Still no one can say that a man is badly
dressed because he wears a round cornered
cum or the single stud cuff. Little details
like these are matters of personal taste:
and, it the rest of ones outfit is refined and
correct in the essential DETAILS we nave
spoken of before, such a small matter as
the cum Will In no way detract from the
general effect.
As to handkerchiefs, the gentleman has
discarded the gaudy affair. The plain
white hem-stitched handkerchief with mod
crate border has the preference. If YOU
would have the colored border, nave it of
a light and unobtrusive color and very
small design. Silk handkerchiefs cannot
be said to be in bad form, but there is
something revolving. in this handkerchief
after it becomes soiled, and it seldom or
never presents the neat appearance OF the
linen article. Of course, u very fine linen
handkerchief is more expensive than the
OluiidLy nlN dudlE. luey are maze In
textures which to the feel are more soft and
pliable than the ordinary silk handker-
chief. Taking their washing qualities,
their wearing qualities and their appear
ance into consideration, there is no doubt
that the plain linen handkerchief is the best
and most proper.
In the matter OF jewelry We have come
down to the very plainest possible point.
The watch chain will be small and unorna-
mented by charms or other Rewgaws. The
link buttons or cuff buttons should also be
plain or with such slight self ornament
as to be unobtrusive. Gems and precious
stones do not appear in the category of a
gentleman's jewelry. The well-dressed
man now never wears a diamond or other
precious stone set strictly a solitaire. Whom
precious stones are worn in n ring they are
Hunken in the gold band SO that their effect
is modified, n they do not stand out pro-
claiming to all the world that their happy
possessor ia a man who can afford to
buy diamonds, and he wants the whole
world to know it. This rule per-
tanning to the diamond as well as other
precious stones, except the pearl, relates to
the scarf pin as well. Ii ia not at present
thought good form to wear a solitaire dia-
mond in Il scarf. while. OF the other hand,
it in considered good form to wear a soil
taire pearl. The reasons for this any man
can see h is gifted with good taste. The
tout ensemble OF the well-dressed man will
present a plainly clad and in no sense loud
personality; the trousers cut medium, the
coat fitting the figure closely, the neckwear
and collar OF moderate effect, the gloves of
unobtrusive colors, hat of moderate size
md neat shape, the stick small and unot-