The record-union., 1891-01-20
IN CHILE.
GLDMPSES OF THE CITIES OF VAL
PARAISO AND SANTIAGO.
Horse Cars with Women Conductors
Modern American Dress-Regu-
Iation of Costumes.

The City of Valparaiso is called the
finest port on the west coast OF South
America. The population is about 125,-e
600, and with the aid of foreign capital the
native residents have built up the busl-
ness portion of the place in Q way sur
passing any other South American city.
and equaling any Of the size in the United
States. Shops and stores are large and
well stocked with not only necessities,
but expensive luxuries. The word val
paraiso'' means the ..yale of Paradise"
Just how it is made applicable is a mys-
terry, as there is no suggestion CT q vale
or more Of a heavenly resort than to be
found in scores of other towns. Around
the bay, that is several hundred fathoms
1eep, is mountain ridge, with jutting
cliffs descending at intervals to the waters
sdge. Numerous ravines have been cut
by the wash of water continued for years
and centuries from the higher lands and
slopes, through which are the avenues to
the surrounding country. Between the
sea and the mountain is a sandy strip,
and along this for three or four miles is
the city. There is only room for one
street, except in Il few short breaks. This
one thorougfare, called the "Calle Vic
toria," follows the circle of the harbor,
and, as Il matter OF course, has the banks,
business blocks and the best private
houses on it. As the city has grown ter
races have been built back for residences,
but to reach them calls for back-break-
ing elm.
One of the first things catching the eye
of the American visitor as novelty is the
double-decked street car with women
conductors. The enlistment of all the
able-bodied men for the war with Peru
made the employment of the other sex for
dp1fl To ttjn had lAf.t.N hoe
strangers necessity, and so well did
they succeed that no change has since
been made. They are, for the most part,
young and good looking, and in blue
flannel uniforms look very catchy. Pas
sengers pay their fare as they enter the
car, receiving paper slip in return that
Is destroyed or thrown away when leav-
ing. The Chilean women as a whole are
not as good looking as those of Peru.
They are more of the Saxon type, with
larger features and lack the grace of the
bellies of Lima. The modern American
dress, with bonnets after the Partisan
fashions are much worn, although the
black head mantle with lace fringe is not
lost sight of. This is most becoming
bit of feminine toilet, as defects are COW
cred and beauties enhanced. In Chile
head mantles of white flannel are worn
by women who have committed some
sin and are penitent They frequent the
crucitix or waiting for an opportunity to
confess. Ladies in the highest social cir
cleS can be found in the crowd of peni-
tents as well as those Of humble position.
Souls that cannot be purged by this peni-
tential dress retire TO a convent in the
outskirts of the city, called the =" Convent
OF the Penitents," where they scourge
themselves with whips, mortify the flesh
with sack-cloth, sleep in ashes and upon
floors, and feed themselves on moldy
crusts, until the priests, by whose advice
they go, give them absolution.
Santiago, the capital, can be reached
from Valparaiso by rail in a five-hours'
ride. There is an orphan asylum there,
supported by the Church, that shelters
thousands of children whose parents are
not known. In the rear wall surround
ing the place is wooden box or cradle
which swings out and in. A mother
places the little one in the cradle, swings
it inside, and the nuns ON guard, hearing
bell that rings automatically, take the
infant to the nursery. Santiago's climate
Is about like that of st. Louis, but few
houses have any means Of heating, fires
being regarded as unhealthy. In the
coldest weather the richest natives viii
shiver through the days and nights rather
than have fire. Furs are worn at meals,
but at swell social gatherings the ladies
appear with bare arms and low-necked
dresses, while the temperature may not
be over 40'.
The stores do not open until 8 or 10
O'Clock in the morning, and close from 5
to p. NJ. to allow the proprietors and
clerks to dine. They then open again un-
til midnight, as between and IL most of
the retail trading is done. The ladies
gather around the goods and the Dons
come also to stare at them. 1t seems to
be considered mark of admiration to
stare at woman, for she never turns
away.
The Alameda is the great resort for all
classes. 1t is 600 feet wide and four miles
long. The center is a promenade, with a
drive 100 feet wide on each side Rows
of trees break the line and afford shade.
and in the summer bands of music are
scattered along to entertain the assembled.
AT one end is Santa Lucia,'' place
beautiful beyond words. II is pile of
rocks 1000 feet high, in the center of the
plain on which the city stands 1t was
here that the United States astronomical
expedition of 1852, under Lieutenant
Gillis, made observations. Before that
time, and as far back as the Spanish in
vaslon, it was magnificent fortress
commanding the entire valley with its
guns, and tradition has it that the King
of the Araucanians had a stronghold here
before the Spaniards came. Winding
walks and stairways, parapets and bal
comics, grottos and flower-beds. groves
of trees and vine-hung arbors, follow one
another from the base to the summit.
while upon the west, at the edge of a
precipice 800 feet high, is miniature
castle and little chanel RaIo,y tho cbo,,al