The Sunday morning news. [volume] (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1886-1891, 1891-04-19
FASHIONS FANCIEs.


and Makeup-Hat trimmings.
Fancy pins. straight and curved. are
largely used in the ornamentation not
only of hats and bonnets. put kerehiefs
and draperies. Every imitation of gems,
tortoise shell. faceted jet and steel, and
even oliver gilt, is put In requisition for
the making up Of these trifes.
Iudia silks with a satin finish are i'm
ported.
Wool surah. new dress fabric, is al
most as light and delicate as the silken
material.
A new pessementerie has leaves and
flowers Of small colored beads, each leaf
and flower edged with q tiny metal thread
The whole closely resembles the bead
work of our American Indians.
In nearly all fashionable costumes the
deeply basqued coat is to be seen. either
ble-breasted with a reverse collar
turning down low in front over a mock
waisrcoat set into the open portion. The
skirts are mostly plain, with light dra-
peries on some, and others are cut on the
cross after manner which it would be
found very difficult to initiate by un-
skilled hands.
Gold galloon studded with mock gems
is a favorite garniture for tea gowns and
other dresses designed strictly for home
wear. Some Of the elegant evening
toilets arc studded with mock gems, and
white silk chiffon dotted all over with
French brilliants and draped over white
mnire shot with silver Is one OF the start''
creations sent from a noted English
house.
The dressy wash goods will be made up
IN simple gowns and trimmed with lace
or colored embroideries. For the skirt, a
plain front with the popular fan-pleating
In the back, finished at the foot with
three gathered ruffles or a bias band of
the goods edged with embroidery. For
the waist a blouse is popular with a
pleated fr1ll at the belt, ieg-o'-mutton
Sleeves, rolling collar and tie made OF
wide strip of the goods neatly hemmed.
A new feature, which is seen on wool as
well as on wash dresses, is frill or mar
row pleating which trims the neck and
extends along the edge OF the overlapping
front of the bodice to the girdle.
India is the name OF a new street shade
in silk and wool fabrics 1t is tint be-
tween crimson dahlia and deep plum
color, and it is becoming to women both
fair and dark. Gloves are imported in
shades to match this color.
Irish point embroidery Is very elegant
on print gowns. If one prefers n white
trimming, which is always more effective
than colored one. Many ladies are
decorating French ginghams by develop
ing patterns in cross stitch embroidery.
The blocks are counted. IS the threads
were counted In the old fashioned sam
pier, and the design Is wrought in col
ored working cotton or linen floss 10 OBJ
tain bold. heavy effect. Each block
should be crossed with the thread six
times.
The cutest hats for little girls are made
of the finest glngham, with shirred
crowns and brims, and rosettes OF Valen-
ciennes lace, ana they are washable
The mutton leg is still the popular style
of sleeve for toilets and costumes OF every
description.
The combination of velvet with all spe-
cies of fabric will continue to be a feat
ure of spring and summer costumes and
evening toilets. Chestnut velvet sleeves
appear upon very many OF the beauti-
| fully braided gowns OF the ecru, fawn or
pale almond wool, and very closely htted
cuirass of moss, gray. black, dove or
cIaret velvet are made extra long and a
| drapery of Henriettl cloth, camePs hair
| or India cashmere is arranged over the
| lower portion of the cuirass, covering all
| It's lower edges. Folds Of the wool ma
1 terial are closely massed aud hooked Co
\ the back Of the bodice.
| On SOM of the new bonnets the flow
ers stand erect over the face. aud bows
\ are, in nearly every case, arranged with
outstanding loops. A material much em-
pioyed in millinery is chiffon; tuile is also
| used.
Slight draperies appear upon the latest
sheath dress-skirts from over the sea, and
| n strong reaction has begun against the
too plain, too ciinging French SKIRT Of tho
| past season.
Ruffs. wide and narrow, in all sorts Of
material, represent new aud pleasing
| fashion.
SILK capes are novel wraps, too light for
| spring days. but will be welcome in the
summer. They are made in the round,
| full shapes fashionable for cloth capes,
and are trimmed with metal galioon.
Grenadines display close set silk stripes
| in graduated colors- This Is useful ma
terial for ordinary evening wear again in
| fashion. Il is q formidable rival 10 the
broche Grape, which has soft floral stripes
thrown on cream. fawn or blue grounds
They are just what everybody wants, and
are well suited for middle-aged women to
wear at garden parties, etc