The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1891-02-15
EN- ROUTE TO CUZCO
The Birthplace Of An Ancient
Civilization.
A PILGRIMAGE ON MULE BACK
Oyer Rivers. Mountains and yalleys-A Lake
Famous in Peruvian Tradition-The
Lake of Urcos.

AREQUIPA, Peru, Jan. Is, 1871 Special
correspondence of THE HERALD. lit would
be a pity for the sojourner in this part of
Peru to miss seeing Cuzco, the ancient
capital Of the Incas, though the journey
thereto is exceedingly wearisome and
rarely undertaken by travellers 'of the
feminine persuasion.' Indeed, 1 doubt if
any Anglo Saxon females but ourselves
ever visited the place-unless, perhaps,
Mrs. Agassiz may have done so when she
assisted her husband so bravely in his
South American researches. However,
the journey is neither so long nor so diff
cult as the three-hundred- and-forty mile
expedition we made not long ago on mule
back over all the ranges Of the Andes TO
eastern Bolivia.
IL GOING TO CUZCo,
ones plans must be carefully matured in
advance, making all possible provision
against accidents and bitches in the pro
granme. One must be sure that the rainy
season is well over, for there are many
bridgeless streams to be forded that be-
come impossible torrents, in which men
and beasts are swept away during the an
nual time of rain. OF course one or two
lDIClGlSTS Can udEuly ABdhG Iu6
10y themselves with safety, and the average
tourist is strongly advised TO do as we did,
VIZ, to engage the services, as guide and
escort, Of Mr.. &c. Hantieldt, aWell-knowD
Arequipanean, who makes business trips
TO Cuzco regularly each month. knowing
every yard of the route and all the people
whereabouts, he can tell one exactly what
TO do and what to avoid, and-more impor-
tant still-will supply suitable animals and
honest servants, which the stranger Would
lind great difficulty in securing for him
self.
THE COST OF THE ROUND TRIP,
including railway fare, horses, mules, and
all expenses en- route, not counting what
ever provisions one chooses to carry, is
about SIS per capita; and the time occu-
pied each way varies from five to seven
days, according to ones endurance in the
saddle. There are no hotels along the
route, and one must depend upon private
hospitality, which is freely accorded to
those who bring letters of Recommended
ton. Every village has It's tdBl5o, how
ever, similar to the inns of Egypt in Mary's
time, wherein the animals are fed and
sheltered, and where one might manage 10
put up'' in case of stern necessity, ne
cessity, depending upon ones own supply
Tor food, or foraging among the neighbors;
but it is always easy to obtain introduc
lions to the various cures and The families
of well-to-do farmers, and through them to
be more comfortably housed.
In providing the outfit for this journey,
one should no. forget that to offer money
in payment for food and lodging outside of
public house, would be resented as an
insult by these hospitable people; and
therefore one must go
STOCKED WITH GIFTS
in order to get even with ones entertain
ers. Bottles of wine are always accept
able, also butter, tea, canned goods and
ether similar luXuries which are rare in the
interior. Eggs are cheap and plenty, but
though there are COWS on all the wayside
farms, milk is understandable In any case,
enough bread to last the entire trip should
be taken from Arequipa, because, though
hard and dry as the surrounding rocks, it
is infinitely preferable TO the black, unleav-
ened Jumps of dough in use among the
country people. Timed beef, ham, fish and
fruit are indispensable, with condensed
milk and boxes Of English biscuits, or
crackers as Americans call them. As
one suffers greatly from thirst along the
road, the water being warm and not always
obtainable, it is best to prepare every
morning the days supply of cold tea, mixed
with claret and sugar. WHAT little butter
is to be found in this region is odd enough
10 deserve a paragraph. If one is not suf
1iciently good traveller to forego butter en-
rirely, he must pay almost its weight in
silver for
PALE, LARDT SORT oE LUBRIcAToR,
wrapped up in bladders, in square pack
ages weighing about two pounds each
Being thus Theoretically sealed, it will
keep indefinitely if the air is not let in
but when once opened, it proceeds to be
come nasty with marvellous rapidlty, 2nC
In a days time will fill the air with an odoi
beside which Limburger cheese is as attal
of roses.
By the way, it may not be amiss to men
ton that our butter supply, as well as let
tiers of introduction TO all the priests anC
cures on the road to CuZco, were furnished
us by one of the sandalled and gray cowleC
monks of the Recoleta, known far and wide
as "Father Tom; and incidentally [ may
tell you something about this familiar
character of Arequipa. The good-looking
white haired friar now past seventy year
old, prides himself greatly on being ''al
American" though his face is as unmistak
able Irish as his brogue. Known In tn
order as friar Francesca Tomas, his rea
name is Thomas Keegan, and he loves I
tell strangers that many years ago in New
York he served the elder Vanderbilt a
coachman.
AFTERWARDS BE DRIFTED To SAN FRANCISCO
where he accumulated considerable prop
erty. When about forty years of age b
was so i'll with fever that his death wa
Hourly SAgSCLCus anu IL Z lUClu dl II
prayed to the Virgin for restoration, prom
lsng in return Of health to devote the n
mainder of his life to her service as
friar. Contrary 10 all expectations, helm
mediately began to mend, and regardin
his recovery as due to the direct interpos
sion of the holy Mother, he at once as
umed the gray cowl and hempen girdle {
the F'rancescans. 1t is sometimes rattle
hard lines for the poor old man, because
though it is said he still owns enoug
California property TO maintain him
comfort-he must take his turn with th
rest in begging from door to door, for th
Recoleta brotherhood subsist chiefly upo
charity He must never have more than
cents in money about him, must never Yves
hose, though his bare feet in their ox-hid
sandals are sometimes frost bitten, an
must always walk rather than ride unle.
the distance be too great for human Ell
durance. Yet a more cheerful and merr
looking man does not exist than stockin
less Father Tom,n in his coarse grs
gown and rope girdle.
GOING FROM AREQUIPA TO CUzCo,
one may now save half the time in Il
saddle by riding due east on the Mollend
Cuzco & Puno railway to Juliaca (pr
nounced Hoo yaek-ah), distance of L
miles, and then changing to the Cuz
division of the road for Santa Rosa, u
present terminus, eighty-two miles in
northwesterly direction. AS there are
hotels in Juliaca or Santa Rosa-nothir
better than an empty car to sleep in-one
advised to go on to Puno and take a FIRE.
start back over the same road 10 the Jun
ton next day. Even in Puno the publ
accommodations are little better than non
but its poor hotel is a palace compared
anything else one will find on the road
Cuzco. An explorer should not look f
beds of ease" and on this hard journt