The Sunday morning news., 1891-12-27
FASHIONS FANCIES.
The Exacting Dame Offers An En-.
ticing Variety in Furs and
FurbeloWS.

Fashion continues to make use of two
shades in costume, but when the wear
er lacks height, this fashion is apt TO en-
phasize her brevity.
On the sleeve, if one must have trim
ming, it Is permissible to put a narrow
turn over cuff. or buttons and loop-holes
up the side. Also a mutton-leg sleeve
may have bracelet or ribbon tied round
The upper arm to hold up it's fullness.
This last would be hardly suitable to
heavy cloth.
Fur and white lace mingled ON demi-
dress costumes is fashionable fancy.
The fur is In narrow bands, and COM
monty is used as beading.
The newest linen collar turns over the
neck band, and is similar to the "Lyron'
collar worn by the men. The cuffs to
match them turn on the outside. Ties to
wear with them are of bias silk, or of
straight silk hemstitched all the way
around, or else mans four-in-haud.
Long ample cloaks will be in fashion,
able use all the fall and winter. Some of
the Paris and London made models are
very luxurious and distinguished In ef-
feet. The cloth wraps for general wear,
dress uses, are superb creations of velvet.
Marie Antoinette brocade, plain Dyons
satin, and satin striped or figured with
small brilliant flowers
Velvet is used in conjunction with fur
to trim winter gowns. Bodices are vari-
ously decorated with it-foc instance, the
sleeve is puffed to the elbow, or just above
it, and fur band is carried round the
upper arm. The yoke-bodice is fulled
across the chest, the fullness drawn to
point at the waist shows a narrow band
of fur dividing the yoke from the lower
half of the bodice, and it is not at all uu-
usual to see the corselet or Swiss belt
outlined with fur at the edges.
A charming development t of the shoul
der trimming is the iaboting of white lace
straight down from the shoulders to the
top of the bust. White lace is used on the
waists of both cloth and silk gowns in
tended for dressy occasions, such as Wis
iting and the theatre. 1t is usually point
applique. Besides the novel way Just
mentioned, it may be put on in fall from
the shoulders to point at the bottom of
the front. To give width separate pieces
may also be gathered over the sleeve top.
Another way is to gather it across the
front from shoulder to shoulder, as low
neck would be outlined.
Opera cloaks seem to get more gor-
geous each season, and elaborate passe-
nlenterle in all shades is still the rage. It
does look garish to use so much of it, but
one must do SO If they wish a stylish
cloak. One made of old rose silk l saw
had feathers about the neck, while the
entire front and half way down the back
was heavily trimmed with gold and sill
yer iridescent beads.
One of the features in millinery is the
varied treatment of feathers. Tiny birds
and wings are bedezined with gold, sill
yer and steel rinsels, and many other
metallic tints. Gold and green metallic
feathers form an important part in milli-
merry, and feathers OF various kinds are
covered with spaugles of gold, lined with
red copper or green; the shades in which
these tiny spangles are made are often
novel and original
A trimming of fur tails. either of sable
or mink, wired to stand upright In pairs
or in 1eur-de-lis shape, is especially fash
ionable on toQnes or turbans of cloth or
velvet. With such hats young women
wear coat of light tan cloth. fitted in
the back and straight in front. with
turned over collar and facing of the rich
brown fur, closed by frogs of brown silk
cord. For older ladies are capoJes almost
entirely of sable trimmed with standing
tails and a miniature head of the animal,
with loops and strings of white satin rib
bon. A white veil with embroidered
sprays and scalloped border completes the
fur trimmed hats.
1t is next to impossible to avoid itera-
ton in describing the fashionable dress
y
gown of this description worth mention
tioning is bordered near the edge or di-
rectly upon 1t with narrow bands or fur
or it's limitations. Many dress patterns
are sold with very good imitation Astra-
khan beaver, or other close mapped or
shaggy fur attended to edge the skirt.
AS the short train prevails, one can only
think OF these borders with Il sensation
of disgust, for they act very efectually
the part of revolving brushes i'll sweep
ing up the dirt.
With the very cold weather comes the
craze for beaded evening bonnets, thus
making acute neuralgia fashionable. At
an informal dance at Crescent Hall the
other evening, noticed bright little
lady, her eyes and feet dancing with the
enjoyment of the scene. On her pretty
head she wore one of those insane inven-
lions, for winter, jet crown which
showed the head aud hair all through
After the dance she left the heated room
and went into the cold night air, while
mentally added her to neuralgia's vic
tins. And she will probably wonder
how she got it.
Jet Is very fashionable. In fact 1t is
too fashionable, or TO be more correct, too
much is fashionable. 1t weighs women
down from the crown OF their heads to
the spangles on their slippers. A few
years ago this sparkling trimming was
tabooed by doctors, who claimed that
many of their patients ailments were
caused by the weight of their gowns.
With its return to popular favor comes
it's abuse again. Women who couldn't
carry Baby" upstairs carry much more
than it's weight in jet trimmings.
The straight collar is on most dresses.
1t should not be made so wide and so
close rs to be a veritable choker. Long.
thin necks are not beautiful. A medium
width looks best; it is also most fashion
able. The straight collar can be varied
as folows:-It may be of passementerie,
even though pnssementerie is nowhere
else on the garment; or it may be of Jet;
it may have fur set on its edge, it may be
of black velvet ribbon, or it may he of
gold cloth or gold galloon. The gold is
sewed on 80 as to show an edge OF tue
dark cloth above, as the skin looks bet
ter-with dark color against 1t. When the
collar is OF ribbon a small bow OF the
same may fasten ii; otherwise it is fash
ioned invsibly, or else with a brooch.
The fashionable brooch is round, The bar
pin having had its day. Whether or not
a white edge is worn inside the collar and
sleeves is optional. 1t is never more
than mere line, and commonly 1t is not
used at ALL The Medicis aud other high
rolling collars are on evening wraps, but
are not much seen on day dresses. A
novelty in collar, for wool dress that