The Portland daily press., 1891-08-11
THE HON e.
WHAT IS WORN AT MIpsu

WHAT'S WORN AT MIDSUMMER.
Married women wear the smallest possible
bonnets, young girls the largest hats they
can find.
Belts of gilt or silver plated metal, in OPEN
work designs, are worn with summer
dresses.
A sailor hat of black straw, with the brim
set up on the low crown so that the latter ap-
pear only about half the usual hight, the
crown encircled by band Of black velvet rib
bon. with yellow aigrette, bunch of yellow
flowers. or high erect bow CT yellow rib
bon at the left side, and wreath of yellow
flowers under the brim and resting on the
hair. is the style OF head-gear considered es-
pecialy chic at present.
Sailor hats of white felt are revived for
seaside wear. They are higher In the crown
than the straw sailor hats now worn, and
have have still bTIm wide widely bound Their trim
very young ladies'. while those who prefer
fuller trimming add white wings on the left
side, or a large rosette made Of thick gros
grain ribbon. Yellow ribbon bands and
bows are on other white felt hats, and still
others have soft full rosette Of chiffon Of
pale yellow tint holding two wings that NAV
be either white or yellow.
Sacques and breakfast jackets for wearing
IN ones own home are made Of thin French
lawns, while with china blue, or lavender
designs Of waving ribbons, or else an ecru or
pink ground strewn with Pompadour fleuret-
ties. The new and comfortable shape for
these garments, says Harper Bazaar, has a
full back gathered in the neck-not on the
back of the waist. The front fall open
straight from the neck, and are edged las
the whole garment Isl with inch wide gull
pure, disclosing a vest of nainsook. laid in
tiniest tucks run by hand, from the throat to
the waist. held there by the ribbon drawing
string brought from the back, and tied in
DOW IN front. A turned over collar and cuffs
are OF the nainsook edged with guipure. The
sleeves are of ample width, and in some sac.
cues have merely frill all the wrists made
by passing ribbon through button-holes
wrought in the lawn; in this case the waist
ribbon Is also passed through buttOn-holes
In the back.
Soft cotton cheviots, SO pleasant to wear,
are made up In very pretty frocks in stripes
or crossbars of blue, pink, or black on white
They have usually shirt waist, pleated
down with slight fulness into a bodice or
wide girdle that is part of the skirt, being
sometimes cut In one with the skirt, In other
cases sewed on as Swiss belt The upper
edge Of the girdle or bodice is scalloped or
pointed, and bound with braid; whalebonvs
inside keep 1t 10 shape. The skirt may be
quite plain. or else colored border to match
the stripe is added, or piping cord is set in
the HEM. A sailor collar and deep cuffs are
made of the plain material. A slDgle-brested
jacket of white flannel and white sailor hat
complete the costume.
Costumes for elderly ladies and for matrons
are in no way different nowadays from those
with regard to age but to taste. There is no
special cut nor color for people over fifty or
even over sixty unless that for some cause or
other black is exclusively worn and adopted
for ever or there be a preference for dark
shades out-ofdoors. In the case of head
gear for mat, ons all the new capotes are as
equally becoming to them as to the youthful.
A light rose, light mauve, a light blue or
pale gold suits grey hair admirably and it
must be confessed that black is never be-
coming to faces that have ceased to look
young. Caps are no longer made like caps
as they have been associated with former no.
lions of them, but they are soft wavy fulls
of lace or of puffe lisse-gauZe and tulle that
is softly crushed into the shaped of the head
and kept together by light lacking and pretty
pins with fancy heads. AS rule, neutral or
self colored shades are never so becoming as
distinct col0rs. The best aubergne or rich
purple, yellow or shaded roses, white roses
tinted with color; brown should be avoided
Tor very few complications only can stand its
proximity. The incest wrap for an elderly
lady Is sacque of black lace calldd mantle
with lace frilling about 1t, but this is said
only for matrons who wish TO look aged, a
thing many take some pride in, otherwise the
fashion Is to wear exactly and precisely the
same cuts as those adopted by their daughters
II their figure is good.
SUMMER NEEDLEwoRK.
Summer needlework is extensively dis
played in the shops for the benefit of the
semi-idle women who are taking vacations
or who have time to spare for these trifies.
Nothing especially new is shown; netting
continues TO be favorite decoration for
scarfs, sachets, pincushions, ETC., and the
work Is not common because So few under
stand how to make 1t. Soft silk scarfs have
borders of netting and melted wheels of silk
using fine silk filoZelle and the cOarser knit.
ting silk in combination. A scarf Of fine
congress canvas or bleached cotton scrim Is
less expensive and may be Numbered. Make
hem-sttcbed hem on all the edges then add
fancy melted border of fine thread and
working cotton using several sizes of mesh
to make the fancy pattern. Measure the dia-
meter of the melted circles, cut the fabric to
match, button hole the edges and then put a
row Of feather stitching outside of this as 1t
all helps to give firm setting to the wheels
which are fastened into the openings. Paint.
Ing on felt, p0ngee, chamois and other ma
terials continues popular and Is rapid
method OF decoration but beware of using
too much gliding. Denim is decorated as
much as ever and white silk embroidery on
Wnlte linen is IaV0rite Tor daintineSs and
usefulness as well.
There is a material sold in the dry-goods
stores called crazy cloth, or cotton crepe. 1t
comes In white, yellow, pale blue and pink.
ANY OF these shades can be used for scarfs
to throw over the back of a chair, around a
picture frame or easel. or drapery for man.
tel. Now tell you how to make your scarf
more decorative. Cut the length you wish
the scarf to be-a yard and a half or two
yards-and hem 1t on all four sides with a
hem an inch wide: Above the hem draw out
TOUR or hye threads all around. II you can
draw well enough, draw in outline a branch
OF leaves, or get a pattern stamped at some
fancy store. Outline over the drawing with
c0lored SILK or cotton in a color that will
look well with the color of the cloth. The
pattern need be only ON one end, but may be
care TO make. or a very Simnla dasiun