Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-05-30

level space, occupied Dy . sneater ana reetau-
rant, both Of which, II 10 needless to add, are
well patronized-for on summer nights land 1t
is always either summer or spring time in Chilli
the populace flock here to enjoy music dancing
and operettas, to eat ices and drink Cousino
beer and champagne chicha.
The stairway leading to the summit il neces-
sarily very steep and narrow, requiring toler-
ably strong head and steady foot to make the
ascent but mercifully the dizzy heights are
partially hidden by vines and overlapping
branches. Following winding path amosg
dense shrubs and trees the way grows narrower,
grotto, within which perpetual twilight reigns
and ice-cold water drips, and one is startled
to meet the wicked eyes Of o horribly ife-like
serpent, its head raised Us if to strike. All
along the crooked path giant geraniums are
growing, some ten feet high, with trunks like
ieas, honeysuckles. Indian pinks. pansies and
t-me-nots-apparently clinging to the
bare rock, but in reality well grounded in q
coating of fertile soil. Ever so far above the
city's din and tumult is an obscure corner
winch can be reached only by zig-zag foot
paths, where rustic seats are set under shelter
ing trees, and 1t is safe to say that right here
the sweet .'old story" which is as new today as
when told by the first man to the first woman
In the garden of Eden, has been repeated
oltener than anywhere else in Chilli.
THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.
When the summit is attained, one feels we'll
repaid for his toll and trouble by the magnih-
cent prospect spread out on every side. Di-
rectly at ones feet lies Santiago, in an almost
perfectly level plain, surrounded on every side
by the snowy Andes. and on clear days the
white cap OF giant Aconcagua can be distinctly
seen. The air, blowing pure and cool from the
mountain tops comes laden with the fragrance
Of nearby flowers, while strains Of music and
snatches Of song and laughter float up from be-
low. Viewed from this elevation, one can ap-
preciate, for the first time, with what regular
ity Santiago is laid out, its squares being
marked with the exactness of a checker-board
and what vast area it rambles over consider
ing that its population is barely 100 900. Owing
to the ever-present possibility of earthquakes.
while the majority have only one, and conse-
quently each, with its central patio. covers a
good deal Of ground. Their walls, stained pink,
gray, blue, pale green and yellow. contrast
pleasantly with one another, and their tiled
roofs are artistically broken by towers and
church spires.
CAPTURING THE MAPocHH RIVER.
Through the northern part of the city runs
the Mapoche, a clear stream spanned by five
handsome bridges, one of which is flanked on
both sides with little shops, like the celebrated
Ponte Vecchio at Florence. From time out Of
mind the Mapoche has had the bad habit Of
rising now and then. especially near the end Of
the rainy season, and has often devastated that
portion Of the capital. SO that the lands along
its banks have been considered worthless
Some forty years ago Mr.. William Wheelrlght
of New York city-the same.gentleman who en-
deavored to establish line Of steamers be-
tween the United States and South America, and
failing in the project secured help in England
and SO turned most of the. trade of this CONT
nent to Europe-laid before the council Of
Santiago carefully matured plan for controll-
ing the river and holding it in check. Though
the city fathers aforesaid had reason for great
confidence in Mr.. Wheelright and believed
him capable of almost any achievement, they
rejected his proposal, on the groAnd that.
though he might understand well enough the
rivers OF his own country. he could know little
of the mighty Mapoche, to dream or controlling
it when it wanted to rise! But now, however,
they are doing about the same thing that Mr.
Wheelright proposed, having drawn off the
water and made solid walls and floor for the
river to run in, of huge blocks of stone firmly
cemented together. reminding one Of Canada's
great canal. The government has appropriated
millions of dollars to this work. but expects to
get the money back with good interest from
the sale of the once worthless lands adjacent to
the Mapoche, which are now in great demand
for building sites. FANNIE b. WARD.