St. Paul daily globe., 1891-05-18

Reserved Seats, Is and So Cents,
life. Save tourists. none except natives
are encountered on the streets, and not
an European stock Of goods can be
found in the entire city, for even
Ayaricious England
does not encroach on the Maharaja's
territory. The hospitality extended
reputable travellers by the rulers OF these
independent states of India is some
thing remarkable, as you may Judge
from our treatment. When we arrived
in JeypOre we dispatched a note to the
Maharaja asking for a permit TO visit
his palace, which is one of the many
curiosities of the place, and at the same
time we asked for a pass to visit Amber,
the former capital, most interesting
but now deserted city, about six miles
distant. Promptly an answer came
with the desired permits and note
stating that one of his highneSS' ele-
plants would be placed at our disposal
for the trip to Amber, which is reach d
by mountain road not paSsable for
wagons. Next morning after chOta
haZni, the early breakfast, we started
for the deserted city in carriages, but
outside of the city limits we found
gayly caparisoned elephant in
charge of the Maharaja's mahout
and two flashily-attired footmen await
ing u.s. After many "salaamS" from
three boys-there are seemingly no men
III India, as all servants are called boys,
no matter what their age may be-we
prepared TO mount our first elephant,
who, after some persuasion, came
Down on His Knees.
10 Of 30
side and one after another climed into
the cage like perch, on his back. After
the four of us were comfortably seated
and had been warned to hold on, and
after the mahout had punched a hole in
the elephants head and kicked him be-
hind the ears, and the attendants had
perforated his hind quarters with ugly
looking steel prods, the huge beast,
with a succession of lurcheS, began to
rise, and mixed US all up again. When
an elephant rises the sensation is not
unlike that experienced on small tug
in a gale, and even after he got under
way we were forcib!y reminded
of the sea by his swaying
from side to side movement like the
rolling of a ship. In fact, elephant
sickness" is as we'll known here as sea-
sickness. However, from our long voy-
age, having become proof against one,
the other did not affect us and we en-
joyed the novel mode of travelling as
much as we did the deserted palaces of
Amber-our objective point. Amber
Palace is very beautiful, cost millions TO
build and must have cost the Raja many
pang to desert, which it seems he did
after some fearful epidemic, leaving the
elegant structure, which had required
SO many long years to erect, with all its
quantity of pierced marble work-mar-
vels of patience, delicacy and fancy so
lavishly scattered abOut-to crumble
away with the ravages of relentless
time. We returned in time for titfiD,
that
Subsidiary Meal.
which is favorite midday pastime, and
one at which the appetite generally pre-
sides. The meal consists of a rich stew
or hot curry with its multitudnous
dishes, followed by we'll cooled bottle
of claret or oftener by whisky and
soda, termed in India. "a peg" and is
usually dispatched between l and 2
o'clock. Another instance of Mahar-
aja's hospitality occurred at Ulwan,
our next stop after leaving the rose
tinted Jeypore. We were anxious to
see the Maharaja'S stables and kennels
of hunting leOpards, and applied for the
DSCeSSdIJ pelHIlt' n fcIS pOIIIe HOlO
came back from the Raja'S private
secretary, saying that the freedom of
the city had been granted US and that
one of the Raja's carriages would
be placed at our disposal for the
day. In the afternoon the secre-
tary himself came and spent several
hours driving us around the city,
through the palaces and gardens and
the stables, where we found 800 horses
and as many grooms to care for chem,
and in every way made our stay most
agreeable and pleasant. When he found
that we were going to take the train at
II O'Clock midnight. he had us moved
over 10 the Raia's private waiting sta
ton, had beds provided with clean,
fresh linen, and even saw that our
meals were sent in to us, using the
Raja's plate and silver for the service.
Such hospitality to mere tourists,
without Compensation.
is unusual in any country. The Mahar-
ala of Ulwan, however, is a princelv
young fellow of thirty years of age, and
has an annual income of over Sl.O0O,O
and can afford such indulgences. From
Ulwan we came on to Delhi, a center,
needless to say, replete with buildings
and objects OF most absorbing interest
and attractiVeness. Here is the famous
Jumna Musfd, the largest and finest
mosque of the entire world. Tombs of
pncient rulers line the roadways and
dot the plain in every direction; wild
peacockS, cranes, parrots and paroquettes
mingle with the horde of monkeys in
making the scene truly oriental; whilst
the cry of our nightly visitors, the jack
ais, who infest the city at night, breaks
with startling discord upon our ears,
as does the chattering of the flying foxes
in the tree tops. disturbing our slum-
bers, yet adding novelty to the situa-
ton. My respect for the expression "a
great mogul' has increased, as will
that of any one who visits the stately
monuments and wonderful remains Of
ancient grandeur scattered round this
former home of the Mogul rulers. We
were prepared to find much of interest
in this wonderful country, but like the
queen of Sheeba. 1.-The half had not
been told u.s." And | can not refrain
from saying to any Of my friends at
home who contemplate a trip abroad.
come to India, the land of enchantment.
the treasure house from which imagina-
tion culls its brightest images of splen-
dor, peopled by the creations of the
Arabian Nights-the "golden Orient"
glittering in the best brilliancy of sun
and song. w. G. r.