The Sunday morning news., 1891-12-06
FASHIONS FANCIES.
Rich Velvet Coats and Warm Fur
Capes-Sable all the Rage.


favor, and many limitations are in the
market
The fur muff par excellence Is larger
than formerly, but although popular. 1t
is less graceful, less convenient to carry.
and far less comfortable, the opening
into which the hands are thrust being
wide enough to admit the wintry blasts.
Chenille is used in Hat effects, latd OH
applique OF braids, and tor such effects
c. emile is used.
1ablers of net ritii exquisite applique
o, this kind in '.rsiali design will be
us... AZ. he front Jf ball dresses, such q
tAUllel .eln ~ narrow, and showing
but little more than Il panel. as the side
folds will be so arranged in accordancs
to recent models as to leave but little
space.
The soft Alpine shapes make capital
travelling hats for winter, with two
wings and a band of ribbon for the trim
ming.
Fur capes that reach almost to the knee
rival fur coats and jackets as the one
wrap necessary for the coldest weather,
and are preferred by many because they
are so easily put on and off. The Henri
Deux cape, with medium high shoulders,
belted back and straight fronts, takes its
name from its very hign collar rolled over
fashionable in three-Quaiter length when
made entirely of mink or entirely of seal
skin.
A black velvet coat made in the new
style, either in close princesse shape or
with slashed basques, is very valuable
acquisition to limited wardrobe, as it
eau be made to do great service, and is
always becoming. A black velvet coat is
handsome over skirt of howered bro
cade, and, In this case. pretty drapery OF
crepe de Chine that repeats the color of
the flower brightens and changes the
front of the coat A bit of full. deep
ruching of the crepe, in the neck and
sleeves, is added.
Sable is to be the fashionable fur of the
season. One consequence of this edict
is that there will be more varieties of
that skin than there were ever known be-
fore. Fur wearers will call every brown
fur sable, whether it be sold them as
such or as mink. We were shown at the
store a perfactly glorious sealskin cape,
three-quarter length, bordered with sable
tails, aud with d similar trimming de-
pending from The collar and from the
shoulders.
In the new collars called "throatlets,"
those in silk met with lines OF metal
thread have q knot ribbon aJ the belt,
and have the effect Of a plastron. They
can be worn outside Of the bodice or be-
tween the jacket fronts of court coat.
What is known as the umbrella cut
skirt needs good cutting, juuicious
placing Of darts making X fit to the figure
below the waist and round the hips, all
the fullness being thrown to the back.
where 1t is arranged In a qua 'ruple box
plait. Princess dresses. thickly lined
and made exceedingly straight, are very
fashionable trimmed with fur and worn
with a long full boa.
The heavy foundation skirt is omitted
in many Of the most elegant and expen-
sive imported gowns. The one skirt is
either in bell or circular shape, and is
lined throughout, or, when the cloth is
extra heavy, it is faced up about half a
yard on the under side, aud for quarter
of a yard only in case reversed hem Is
used to finish the skirt on the outside.
American modistes copy these skirts very
generally, and, il the manipulators are
practiced and deft, and the skirt per-
teclly hung and given the approved
tailor finish. 1t is quite impossible to tell
them from the skirts mace the other side
of the water.
Bodices are much trimmed and In vari-
GUS ways; some are made with nearly
round waist and a slightly pointed waist
band of velvet. Sometimes the skirt is
sewn on to the round waist and hidden
with a corselet; and there Is, again, the
dress that fastens on one side all the way
down, beginning at the shoulder. then
under the arm and the side of skirt-all
this fastening hidden by band of en-
broidery. velvet and fur, which continues
down to the feet
The most fashionable sleeves of the
moment appear still to be the one large
puff from the shoulder to the elbow, with
tight gauntlet to the wrist, but newer
kind has d puff which turns downward
towards the knuckles and almost hides
the hand. 1t is to be hoped that this will
not gain any special favor. 1t is neither
comfortable wear nor pretty to look at.
interferes with the quick movement OF
the hand. Nearly all the sleeves. how
ever, that have seen at present are very
high on the shoulder, aud there seems to
be tendency to wear them very close
about the wrist. Many button on the
outside Of the arm.