The Sunday morning news. [volume] (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1886-1891, 1891-09-27
'L0NDON'S NEW FASHIONS
Things That Well Dressed
English Women Will
Wear This Fall.
GOWNS WITH LONG SKIRTS
Long Sleeves -Eruit Gardens on
BOnnets- Dresses for DIM
ner aud Theatre.

LONDON, Sept. II, 1891. The chief nov
elites In London gowns for the autumn
are great length of SKIRT at the back and
portentous length of sleeve. which
threatens to swallow up the hand Such
undue length is neither artistic nor sensi-
bic, making the forearm look absurdly
long, and tending to cripple the move
ments Of the hands, Altogether, sleeves
are very weak point in the style of our
dress at the present moment. The tops
Of them are raised absurdly high on the
shoulders, at an angle that approaches
the ear, and now that the lower part is
made almost to hang over the knuckles
our arms look quite out Of proportion to
the rest of our frames
Referring to the recent appeal on be-
half OF our feathered friends, I think
their greatest chance of life lies IN the
fact that artificial fruit seems likely to
be first favorite as trimming for bon
nets. when the day for horticultural
headgear is done. Already the windows
of the modistes can only be described as
orchards in miniature. Cherries to right
Of them, currants to left of them, grapes
behind them, spread in tempting profus-
ion. remind one of the fruiterer's store.
AS long as the decorations are confined
to small orchard produce, and that spar
in0iy, nothing can be urged against this
freak OF fashion, but the fancy, run to
seed, suggest an alarming prospect. A
picture hat, adorned with lfe.sized
peaches, or bonnet fashioned like The
top of q pineapple, would put the flight
of sparrcws vogue completely in the
shade. From the orchard 1t Is but a step
to the kitchen garden, and it is just pos
sible that we may live to see the day when
a glorifisd bunch of carrots. on the apo
gee of Partisan confection, will embody
le supreme chic.
DINNER DRESSES.
Dinner dresses are probably those in
which there Is at present most variety.
The other evening we saw one which
reused our enthusiasm and caused many
questions to be asked as to its origin, a
matter which the wearer preferred to
keep to her own inner consciousness
kind Of meanpess INDUCED Ia by many
women, who would do anything rather
than recommend their Inodiste. The gown
had crepon front OF the palest possible
shade of blue. 1t was embroidered closely
with cornflowers in three deeper shades
of blue, their slender tapering foliage
being wrought in perfectly harmonizing
tones of green. The flowers sprang up in
long, slender. graceful sprays from the
thick ruche of pinkedout silk in all
the shades used IN the embroidery.
The over portion of the dress was all
cut IN one. terminating in long, round
graceful train. Il was of dark, corn
flower blue velvet, lined with silk Of a
paler but not the palest shade. The bod
ice was nearly high, and the sleeves ex-
tended to the wrist There was wide
vest of crepon with sprays or cornhower
branching out over it. A sort OF loose
fronted jacket of the velvet, finished in
points. was cut in fanltleSs lines, appar-
emily following those of the wearer's fig
nre.
The top of the bodice was finished with
plain band collar, covered with a tiny
pleating of palest blue isse and headed
nv Quilting of iisse, This finished with
sort of little pointed cheniisette in
front, the embroidered vest being cut in
sort of small V. A diamond and sapphire
crescent brooch fastened the collar We
could not help comparing this gown
most favorably with several others which
were not'so handsome, but made with
very low bodices and next to no sleeves.
Tan shoes are no longer tan. They are
russell OF the darkest dye. CIaret is said
TO be the best means of keeping them
good color, applied every day and allowed
TO sink Into the kid as though it were
rood old Stilton cheese The Princess of
Wales and her daughters patropize this
deep color with their yachting and trav-
cling costumes, and men wear shoes of
this tint even more universally than wo-
men.
TAN COLOR FOR GOWNS.
Tan color for gowns ls coming largely
in again. Brunettes should adopt it, to
the exclusion OF blends. There Is pretty
tone of sepia brown that smngies beauti-
fully with tan. and one wonders why it is
not more seen. BY the sea huge checks
are worn, some of them of too pronounced
kind for beauty. They are chiefly made
on the cross, and the bodices OF latest
make have no seams in the backs. Prob
ably the lining is scanned and carefully
fitted.
A good tartan gown seen at Dieppe was
in dark green, grey and red. with a deep
border OF red velvet. Ribbons Of red
velvet were sewn in low down in the
waist seams and brought mp in front.
where they were fastened with large
fat knot. A lady made sensation there
last Sunday by wearing a little green
bonnet, with wide strings that hung
down to the hem of her gown. As she
was remarkably we'll turned out in every
way, this is probably little eccentrlcity
of fashion, to DE further developed later
on, or hastily dropped, one cannot guess
which. We are simpletons to place our
selves passively in the hands of men-mil-
liners. and to wear what they choose to
dictate. Were women or taste and cul-
fure to take the matter in hand we should
see fashions chdhkLug AZ lssi AtoniVus
evolution, instead Of hopping from one
bideous eccentricity TO another, as they
a charming idea for theatre dress
would be pale pink crepe with
bretelles and narrow straight belt OF ttlr-
ouoise blue velvet. bucki1ng on the
shoulders with paste buckles. and having
fhe bodice cut low and the sleeves full
gathered, This mixture of pink and
blne IS a perennial favorite with the
French, and in this they show their wis
sIom. for it is wonderfully pretty, IL one
Is careful to select the right shades. An
other good notion would be dress of
liaht green poult dc Sole. with a low
hpdice studded with crystal, and the
skirt draped on to 1t round the hips, un.
der long, hanging fringe o. Six and
crystal. -
AUTUMN STYLES.