Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1891-06-25

inquire. 1t mas coat basque VIII long
skirts joined at the hip and closed in
double breasted fashion by large pearl but
tons, the lappels permitting the high linen
collar and four-in-hand scarf of silk to
show. The sleeves raised on the shoulder
are shaped in at the elbows, and fit the
| lower part of the arm quite closely, white
linen cuffs being just visible below.
With all the rich profusion of be-fowered
| fabrics and of rich coloring, for quiet
elegance and striking effect, it is hard to
! rival the toilet of black and white, and the
following description of calling dress will
bear out the assertion:
The material is of black silk cut into
squares by narrow white stripes. The
skirt is of the bias umbrella cut, the white
stripes framing points down the middle Of
the front. Bodice of black silk, closely fit
ting, stretched over the hips two or three
inches only. Square yoke back and front,
of white silk covered with fine
black openwork passementerie. The yoke
in front is about six inches deep; the
one in the back about three. Around this
yoke and above the puffs OF the sleeves
ruffle of black silk lined with white is ap-
piled. White silk and passementerie neck
band. The upper part of the sleeves of
black silk is deeply plated and tucked under
about three inches above the elbow. 1t simu-
lates short sleeve. out of which comes
white silk sleeve covered with passemente-
RE, closely fitting and reaching over the
| hand with bias medieval cuff. Around
the narrow basque a wide fiounce of the
silk is gathered with a small heading and
extends to about oue-fourth of the length of
the skirt. The hat worn with this is quite
novel-a black rice straw sailor hat of the
smallest dimensions: the crown is not even
one inch high, and the brim so narrow that
it does not protrude any further than the
ringlets on the foreheaa and the hair waves
on the side of the head The only trimming
is narrow velvet band around the crown
and two small Mercury wings in the front
For foulard or India, there is the plain
gathered skirt, trimmed with deep tiounce
of black lace. There is Il new variety that
is now much used. 1t is of very thin trans
parent tulle, has q straight border and is
worked with dots, bows and Louis XVL
designs. The bodice is plain, made to
stretch over the hips a few inches,
then heightened with deep gath
cred founce of the same lace. Pulled
gathered foulard sleeves. These and the
bodice are trimmed with what they call
wings. A ruffe of lace encircles the arm
hole in the back, turns over the shoulder on
fha IF ba ell hon &c
heart shape in front and carried into point
TO the small Of the waist.
The youngsters who have been going
about for the last few years in their Kate
Greenways without any marked signs of in
jury to their health are now exciting the
sympathy of enthusiasts on hygiene in
dress, and strong efforts are being made to
cut off the skirts that are claimed to ham
per the little legs in freedom of exercise. If
the warfare could be effectively directed
against the long clothes of the infant there
would be reason for the crusade, but the
lover of the picturesque in dress will be
hard to convince that the little tot in the
long skirts, short waists and big hats is suf-
fering from fashions folly. One of the
latest OF these pretty frocks is the Rubens
gown. The skirt is long, but stops within
three inches of the top of the boots. The
waist is short and is known by four seal
loped revers, which turn over the square
necked waist front, back and on the
shoulders. Often this effect is further
heightened by setting a scallop-edged ruffie
under the arms and in the arm holes. The
scallops are finished with button-hole
stitching. This is quite effective in Tur-
key red cotton, with the scallops done in
black silk
A word about the headgear and we lift
our chapeau and say ''adieu.''
If the reader has ever had the pleasure of
ransaclsing an old garrett she has doubtless
seen big leghorn bonnet rearing itself
front and back, the middle depression filled
in with gauze ribbon bows, made perky by
fine wire used to keep them erect fashion
repeats itself with slight variations; the
perky bow is here, on the pancake hat in
front and back; it rears itself much in the
same fashion as when mothers grandma was
a girl Flowers are more in demand, how
ever, as the season advances, and it is said
that the tendency is to do away with the
standing-up trimming in front. Streamers
at the back are affected by old and young,
and are usually becoming when brought
forward and tied under the chin. Feathers
are by no means extradited, but the most
popular form is the wings, commonly called
mercury's wings. These give a coqeuttish
ct IN tha har hot
trimming.