The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-12-06

blade. Examine carefully for these de-
fectS and then watch the tailor mark the
alterations. If he knows his business he
Will locate the trouble where. perhaps, YOU
wouidn' suSI>ect tin the shoulder point,
as | have had It marked in the diagram.
IL he tells You that he can get the fullness
out with an iron. or by little change in
the seam or the top OF the shoulder, don't
You believe him. Tell him that tho
shoulder is ''too straiE ht." That is the
technical term. 1t means that the line
of the gorge or curve for the neck is not
detected sufficiently. That throw the
shoulder point into the wrong place That
Is the critical spot IN a coat. My friend.
the cutter. t0ld me that more study had
been bestowed upon this spot than upon
any other, but that the information OBJ
tanned Was not vet fully satisfactory.
However, IN the case / have cited, the
tnIng 10 do - TO cut little OF at the
gorge. This viii not affect the position of
the collar as you might think. That is
regulated by the back piece. If the first
alteration IN your coat doesn't produce
the desired effect find out whether the
tailor has attacked the shoulder point.
| have had taiiors tell me that the
break at the shoulder could not bs
remeded. That is nonsense. You will
not get that story wnIle the tailor - try
ing TO get your order. Make him TX it till
you are sure that the coat presses equally
upon every part of the shoulder. Ii Is
often easy IN see that the ends are bearing
all the weight of the garment This in
sures your dissatisfaction. A very hollow
shoulder may need a little padding, but
usually a resort to that remedy indl-
Gates deficiency in your tailor's grasp of
his business.
Sometimes 2 coat draws along limo
from under the arm TO point near the
n9ck button on that side. This is caused
b scant skirt and the 'foreparts" being
a little short
\ low collar. drawing away from the
neck, is caused by a short back part; a COL
lar that wants TO climb over your head
when you sit down results from too much
length in the back part Sometimes L
three or four button Cutaway looks fairly
well with only the top button fastened.
but as soon as the others are fastened is
pushes up and wrinkles at the neck.
Don't let your tailor promise 10 fix this by
moving the buttons. lie can't. Tho
trouble is in the shoulder point, as usual.
The shoulder is too crooked. That is, the
curve of the gorge" bends away too
sharply.
As TO fitting around the waists, coats are
not cut very close under the present style.
But II you want yours 10 fit we'll in, don't
let the tailor persuade you that Hitting
skirts are necessary accompaniment.
No matter how narrow the waist or how
broad the hips, there should be no wrink-
ling in the skirts.
Always try a coat unbuttoned. no mat
ter whether il is ever 10 be worn that way.
Note your side view with the coat unbut-
toned. If it hangs oil, the back is too
short. II it hangs from the front SO that
the back shows a tendency TO wrinkle
against the body the front is too short.
Do not be persuaded TO accept either.
If you want an English shoulder, it is
ten to one that your tailor will not know
how to give it to you. This is sloping,