St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1891-02-22

with NalenclenneS lace. mere were
fewer shams in those days, ana the
cheap machine-made garments which
are made to sell were Quite-unknoWn.
swell looks with supreme contempt
on linen or muslin underwear,
ornamented with stiff embro-
derry. In silk attire must she be
| clad from top to toe, and that trimmed
with pillows of lace and yards OF dainty
feather stitching. To be chic. she dOnS
Undertaking which is either in har-
mony or matches the color of her gown.
| Black silk undergarmentS are somewhat
| passe, faStidious women being unable
| to Danish the prejudice against black
coming in contact with the skin.
1t is, however, much affected by
certain class of people who are always
straining after effect and aiming to do
something bizarre. 1t cannot be denied
that the soft, dead black of the fabric,
and its trimming Of Chantilly lace is
striking in juXtaposition with the flesh,
impartng to it the dazzling purity OF
Cararra marble. Black underwear. how
ever, is only pardonable Ell voyage, as
| it necesSitateS fewer changes and is eX-
tremely convenient.
The most artistic thing is to choose
silk underwear as nearly assimilatlng to
avoiding all patchinesS of effect. Every
| thing worn beneath the dress should be
as compact as possible, the undergar-
ments fitting the figure like glove;
this can be managed by goring the ma
terial in such a manner that 1t follows
the contour of the figure, and is yet
easy and comfortable.
The ba0y-WaiSt chemiSe is one OF the
daintiest of garments, the fullnesS be-
ing so slight as to be in no wise detrl-
mental. even to a figure inclined to en-
bonpoint; the waist is slightly full and
merely provided with shoulder straps,
the bodice being trimmed with narrow
lace, or, in some instances, a deep fall
of lace: the waist is defined by broad
ValencienneS inserting, alternating
with beading, through which is run
baby-ribbon, ana which can be
drawn up to adjust it to the
figure 1.-The skirt reaches to the ankles, and
has several rows of inserting and deep
founce of lace. This is all exceedingly
dainty garment, and has almost the APP
pearance of the Short-WaiSted Recamler
gown. For people OF slender means,
pOugee affords an excellent substitute
for silk. and the ecru cOlOring is not as
a rule unbecoming, s0ftened as it may
be with ruffies of lace or colOred
is sheer and fine, possesses the ineStl-
mabe quality of bearing the crucial test
of the laundry; it is even more desira-
BILE for summer wear than silk, being
extremely thin, agreeable to the touch
pleasing to the eye, and reasonable in
cost. Dotted French nainsook is eX-
tremely popular for undergarmehts,e en-
tire sets being made of it. 1t is usually
scalloped in the same color and tied
with small ribbon bows.
Mrs. Connolly, or. as she is in fact,
Mrs. Liddy, is the richest dreSsmaker in
New York, says the World. She is a
tall. striking looking woman, with brown
hair and eyes, a commanding carriage
and the peasantest manner possible.
She was born in Ireland, but came
early to this country, married and
entered the dressmaking business.
Everything she undertook was Singu-
larly successful, and from the first she
invested her surplus in real estate, so
that now she OWLS fourteen houses in
Long Branch, and IN New York three
on Sixteenth street, one on Forty
fourth street, where she lives, and one
on Fifth avenue and Thirty-secOnd
street, where she conducts her business
Her fortune is estimated at from $780,,
600 to 100000. Real estate is her
hobby.
The so-called Fin de Steele mantle is
one of the very latest Paris creations.
1t is a long Henry ii. cape in dull red
velvet, streaked with black, and edged
with bands of fur or feather trimming,
one boa end extending down the front.
1t faStenS inYiSibly, and is cleverly
draped on the left shoulder to hide both
arms. 1t has epaulettes in beaded
gimp, anu deep fringe dropping from
the two square Jokes. The back of the
cloak is slightly gathered under the
sparkling yoke, from which depends a
shower of long beaded strands. Its full
ness Is artistically raised on the left
side to give more freedom to the arm,
and display bright-colored lining in
peau de sole.
The Princess of Wales is said to be the
Youngest looking woman of her age in
England, and to owe the wonderful
preservation of her youth and beauty to
her ability to sleep at her will, power
which she is able to call to her assist
ance even for tive-minute or ten-min-
ute interval in the rush of her many
duties. She seems like sister to her
three tall daughters, and a sister but
slightly in advance of them in years.
1t is little odd how completely night
weddings have gone out of fashion.
Three, or at least O'Clock, is the near
est approach to the close of the daylight
hours which is permitted.
Very handsome and uncommon are
the long wraps and opera cloaks now
shown in London and Paris, says Frank
Leslie's. The one illustrated is new de-
sign from Paris, which is made of fine
quality of plush. Another shape,
which would completely envelope the
Wearer from head 10 foot, is made of
a lovely shade of green vicuna cloth,
with hood and frill around the neck, and
the entire lining of the pale, shrimp
pink silk. A smaller one is Of pink
plush and Drocade in a pattern of gold
pines on white ground. 1t is eXquis-
tie, and the price is only about $25. AL
though young people still cling to short
skirts for ball wear-they are very gen.
eral, nay, almost universal, with those
who dance-yet trains are more
worn than they were some
two years back, and for all
receptions, soireeS, dinner parties
and functions where there is no dane
ing. even the youngest matr0n, or the
young lady in the second season, dons a
trained gown more often than not Very
few ladies who have reached middle
age wear the short gown, excepting for
walking and afternoon visits. Even the
home gown has demi-train, Or at least,
falls on the ground for three OF four
inches.
Silk retiring robes this is the aesthetic
term are gotten up IN very elaborate
fashion, so much so that woman with
a frugal mind might be in imminent
danger of remaining awake all night in
order to avoid mussing the numberless
frllls and furbelows with which her
nocturnal garment is adorned. These
dressy affairs frequently do duty as
morning robes, gowns of silk merely
feather stitched being donned at night.