The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1891-06-03
AT THE F0UNT OF FASHION.
ONE OF THE OPENING DAYS OF PARIS
What n Lady saw-Dsscriptions OF Fash
ionnbIe Costumes-GOwns for Young La
dies-BeautifuI Hats-ParAsols and
Their Handles, Pans, Etc.

says a Paris letter writer. It was over
cast, oppressive and chilly by Gifts and
starts" Those fits and starts encouraged
great latitude in costumes, dark serges on
one hand and light toilettes to make
drawing-room futter on the other. saw
no bouflant draperies-not even on the
pretty women on the pietures-but rather
very tight skirts, ridinc-habit like at the
hips and flowing out in bias trains The
most fetching thing in wool wasof cream
( ground, with an indefinite zig-zag of blue
etched in. The skirt, demi-train. bias and
not too full, was destitute of the least bit
of trimming or stitching. The corsage
was q coat front with one dart, the back
long and like the coattail of a mans even
| ing dress. The vest was OF dark blue silk,
with jabot-like plat on the chest and all
the fullness drawn in slightly below the
waist. The buttons were smoked pearl,
etched with gold.
Another gown was of fine cloth of a
color variously described as crushed straw
| berry, or almond color. The usual plain
| skirt, trimmed at the foot with hand en-
I broidery in jet; but band OF jet galloon
would be equally effective. The corsage
| buttoned without trick or device down the
! front. A bit of relief from fluffy corsages.
The skirt was jetted down the front and
half way round the bottom, and was
slightly gathered on below the waist line.
| The collar and wrists were trimmed in
| jet, and the sleeves were perfect mutton
legs fitting the arm very closely from the
elbow down. 1t is really pleasure to see
buttons, and we are really going to wear
ioice at this revival and finish his servi-
tude to those vicious little torrents,
''hooks and eyes," with enthusiasm.
OF the thin gowns, one that many
Messieurs turned and looked after appre-
ciatively was of thin black damage bro
caded in blue. The entire gown was trans
parent and made over blue silk The skirt
was trimmed at the foot with full flounce
OF black lace, and spaced with ornaments
of Jet. The corsage was pointed basque,
from which depended graduated fringe
of jet. growing quite short in the back.
| The collar and the lower half of the
sleeves were heavily appliqued in jet, and
the arm hole was inclosed in a jet fringe
which falls in a delicious jingle.
This is a charming model for grenadine,
and it is popular with women who have
finely turned hips. A costume worn by a
beautiful young countess was of white In
dia silk, figured largely in black, green and
yellow. 1t was trimmed at the
foot with a fiounce of black lace,
held in place by Jet ornaments. The
back was princess. The corsage, which
had basque front, had lace gathered on
over the silk to simulate a yoke, and the
sleeves were very fully covered with lace
to the elbows. The silk continued to the
wrists. This gown was enoTmement chic,
and is the keynote for elegant summer
| costumes.
Another gown for young ladies of slen.
| der figures is of rose and green striped
India silk. The skirt may be trimmed
either with a lace flounce or Of the silk
| draped on in the style of a lamberquin.
| Flounces are even called lamberquins,
and are much worn in this goods. This is
a round gathered waist, and over that is
worn fichu of lace and green India silk.
| 4 soft sash of the same is adjusted in long
| loops and ends in the back.
A hat of very light tan straw trimmed
! with rose mousseline de sole and green
wings is a dove of hat These low hats
/ of almond color straw are much worn by
/ les Jeunes files with brilliant skins. An
| other kind OF a hat, more dashing and
/ more to the govt OF an American girl is OF
thin, black straw, set we'll on the head
and trimmed with bold bows of crimson
ribbon, and vivid yellow roses with plenty
/ of foliage. Bright yellow and purple in
mOusseline de sole are also used in combi-
nation. Strange TO relate. they are not
only ugly, but are vastly becoming to
women who have healthy pallOr.
Mrs. CrOesus and her relatives are the
only women who can be in the fashion
when it comes to parasols. Parasols in
| Paris must match the gown. Match it ex-
actly. if it doesn't, it isn't at all the thing.
BY matching / don't mean matching
really, but complimentary.
The dazzling white of Paris makes black
| parasols the FIRST choice. Black watered
| silk on black silk with gauzy lace inser-
ton is very much the fashion. Scotch
| plaid silk parasols are gay and smart, but
the delight of the true Partisan heart is
an affair that is made up of lace and
mousseline de sole. 1t is draped and
befimsied. At the very tiptop there's
nodding rose, if madame thinks the rose
| the queen of flowers. III she doesn't she
takes the posy she does approve sovereign
and ties it to the flap of her parasol.
White, pink, yellow, anything that's be-
coming, anything that cool and summary,
they are all the mode. I've saved the best
! till the last, like wise child at birth
! day fete. The handles Of those parasols
are lovely. They are of the wood that
matches the silk. There's red pepper
wood, green, orange and lemon stick,
hazel wood, with enambled nuts adjoining
the handles, and, ah! the delicious rose
sticks saw plain, polished handle the
other day, with the owners monogram
in gold-pretty and distinctive.
There is flower fan exhibited in one
or two shops that is new. This one in
| the cut is made of three large peoples
with plentitude of petals, which fiutter
gracefully and pleasingly when the fan is
agitated and dispose of themselves in
some mysterious manner when 1T is
closed. Another, made OF one single
giant white chrysanthemum, was even
prettier and not cheap at $50.
/ saw yesterday in the hands OF friend
fan which was absolutely perfect. Long,
! full, cream-white ostrich tips mounted on
| tortoise shell sticks of such rare quality
| that they were the color of amber. This
chef-d'u0ure was just from Boudets.
And this reminds me that although
sleeves are still worn very long, one sees
on the wrist now slender hoops of dia-
monds and rubies. Three or four of these
are worn, but unless they are very rare it
| is better to take advantage OF the length
OF sleeve and discard the superfluous.
--latest fashion Notes
Tho sbaar and nrettv fioured dalaines