The weekly intelligencer. [volume] (Lexington, Mo.) 1891-1901, 1891-09-26
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Fall Dress Goods STYLES in Making
Millinery Shapes -Col0rs.

EDITOR lNTELLIGENCER. New dress
goods are very rough. by reason of
large twillS, Astrakhan weaves or bon
rctte ilcckingS, tho latter often bcstrewn
upon stripes, plaids or figures set at
intervals or perhaps composing them.
Very large plaids are seen again. bu
not so prominently rs hitherto. Diago-
nal stripes are Il special feature Some
traverse the entire breadth: others
form single wide points meeting IN the
middle of the breadth and from such
extremes, diminish in great variety to
successive small points. while diagonal
stripes of some width may show trans
verse bars within them. Dresses in
robe patterns showing ornamenlai!on
on the front breadth with lesser touches
for sleeves and corsagc, are heavily
imported and the rough, large pattern
ed goods will be frequently set in front
breadths. Princesse outlines are most
in favor for making up, with moder-
atcly, high sleeves and quite long
waists, but coats, either independent
~ ~ Wv F''t'iiC III itS lIb uEeSS.
will remain in style and in answer to
special inquiry il may be added that
CLARK s Mile End cotton still retains
the lead for strength, smoothness and
elasticity and is the best substitute for
sewing silk especially as il comes in
new colorS.
NEW HATS
are still on the order of those worn in
summer and still trimmed by long
loops or other high garnitures standing
upright at the back, with correspond
ing adornments in front. Those hav-
ing wide front and side brims, present
little novelty, but IN smaller varieties,
long, narrow contours give way to
broader shapes that are sometimes al
most circular. Nassar Sailor hats are
repeated in felt or velvet and not al
ways trimmed on the left side only,
since now and again, ribbon is quilted
around with upright loops or wings at
the back and front I}onnets often
show a return to conservative shapes,
having decided crown and are
trimmed to Il modest height in front.
FANCY RIBBONS
with satin surface, in widths of five or
six inches, display three belts of strong
ly contrasting colors, such as gray,
orange and blue: yellow, green and
blue; red, green and orange, etc,
which melt into each other Still
gayer ribbons show similar belts of
color that meet in sharp outlines, while
set upon them are pointed leaf patterns
in yet other hues, or again may appear
in contrasting belts, a satin and moirc
weaves, the latter being changeaDle.
Shaded velvet ribbons are likewise
novel and run from widths of an inch
and half to six iuches, but there is
always demand for plain ribbon, and
here the choice lies among velvet, dou-
ble faced satin or gros grain.
BRILLIANT ORANGE
that is almost red, is very prominent
color and from thence, in lesser and
purer tones, yellow will be conspicuous.
Coming next or perhaps even in rival
ry, is green, from dark to extremely
light. there rre bright yellowish
browns, beige, tan or gray, with a pro-
portion of heliotrope, old rose, old
blue and other blues and coquelicot
red. These various hues are combined
with the utmost freedom and no con-
trasts are too audacious.
BLACK
is very much used and seen on by fer
the greater number of hats, gives effect
of shading possible to nothing else.
jet with the same end in view, is ex-
remely fashionable, most frequently
in open patterns laid on material and
in Princess of Wales tips, which will
be popular, one of the three feathers
is usually black, the other two, ,shadipgs
of one color. In consequence, black
and yellow win be the chosen contrast
of the winter, appearing not only in
millinery, but through the entire range
of dress. LUCY CARTER