Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1891-12-19
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
THE OLD ECCLESIASTICAL CITY OF
u Wells lies of the beaten track OF travel on
branch line which has very few trains in q day.
We had been changed from one railway car
rage to another, pushed about by impatient
porters and deserted on draughty platforms,
where the snowy English advertisement and
the blood-curdling book stall novel reigned
supreme. until, when at last We reached the
'Swan Hotel at Wells, we were too tired to
do more than glance out Of the window in the
direction Of the cathedral we had come so far
TO see. "Just across the street." we were told,
but We could see nothing in the semi-darkness
caused by the Wells gas lamps but the big
wooden swan nesting in balcony full of flowers
above the hotel door, and dim mass Of trees
on the other side of the way. After q comfort
able supper. however, we were in a very differ
emit mood, and started out gaily to see what
could of the celebrated cathedral. which al
though in so remote a spot ID one Of the finest
In England.
THE CATHEDRAL AT NIGHT.
There was a wan moon struggling with ragged
clouds overhead. and In its uncertain light the
three great towers rose before US as mere black
masses against the silvery sky. We wandered
through the close and looked curiously at red
lamp-it windows in the very old houses of the
clergy, which surround the cathedral at some
distance
Wells has n large theological seminary. the
students of which live in a double row Of lovely
old cottages. cut of from the rest OF the world
by an exquisite archvay and gate. little
window in the gate house was brightly lighted,
and We fancied that we saw a scholarly young
head behind its curtained lattice burning the
midnight oil in his bewitching abode. which
could be reached only by a crooked little stair
case that must have been built 500 years ago.
But gates were being shut in every direction
with much inhospitable changing and grating
Of ancient keys. and the town and the cathedral
seemed both to have gone to bed. We decided
to follow their example after one last look at
the cheerful little window and at the old gray
walls and looming towers with the dim moon
Light and the dark shadow.
SUNDAY MORNING.
A fresh dexy morning frightened the dull
streets and turned the darkened pallor of last
night into gay symphony of green eIms, blue
sky and yellow sunlit roofs. Wells lies high
among the hills of Somerset-the Bristol chan
mel IL visible from a neighboring eminence,
even the distant mountains of Wales, and
therefore the atmosphere is damp and there
are frequent mists and showers The last-cen-
tury watering place of Bath is not far away and
70 joined with Wells in giving q name to the
diocese. Everything had fresh. rain-washed
look on that Sunday morning, from the clean
green grass under foot to the plastered gables
Of the old timbered houses.
THE GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL
The wonderful design of the huge church
could now be appreciated to some extent al
though to really comprehend the marvellous
intricacy Of detail and construction would re-
q1ire years of study. Wells Cathedral has
three great towers, two above the west front
and the principal one IN the center. This west
front is magnificent in decoration, covered
closely with images and arabesques, which in
olden times were colored. The cathedral. dedi-
Gated TO St Andrew. was founded in 10i by Ina.
king Of the Saxons, but Of the present building
no portion is older than the thirteenth century
The greater part of the architecture is in the
style and Of the period of Notre Dame at Paris,
and the west front, with its twin towers, recalls
that noble facade which rises above the Seine.
THROUGH TIE MAIN PORCH.
On entering the edifce through the main
porch, which is most curiously adorned with
grotesques in carven stone, the general effect
Is somewhat disappointing. The great weight
Of the superb central tower weakened the sup
porting walls centuries ago and inverted arches
OF stone were built beneath it, between the
nave and chancel, proving extremely disfig-
uring- Eighteenth century vandalism has FUR
Their injured the interior harmony of the cathe-
dral by placing the organ above the low rood
screen and thus building up n solid wall of
modern woodwork between the two main por-
Gons Of the church, the merest glimpse of the
east window being visible above the organ
pipsa
THE LADY CHAPEL
i, however, very beautiful and has been most
carefully restored, and there are many fine old
tomba One which represented bishop in
curious Elizsbethan cap and ruff attracted our
attention specially. Much Of the glass is an
toned
At THE MORNING SERVICE.
1he2morning service was about to begin
and Ne followed the congregation into the
choir, whore there was already large number
q psrsoas-larger than usual, we found, be-
cause the somerset Grays. o regiment Of local
militia, we're to attend church that day in a
body. The theological students, who sat to-
0ether, wore hoods of black cloth lined with
white fur, thrown over their shoulders Pres
entity the great west door was flung open, ad-
nittng gush Of warm sunlight to cheer the
moldering dimness of the nave, and there
sounded a burst of martial music with the
soSis hlgh over all The organ answered with
triumphant peal and
THs MILITIA MARCHED Up TIE MAIN AISLE
through the rood screen and took their places
In the choir stalls. They we're fne-looking
men, most Of them, and their gray Uniforms
rather picturesque. There was q pause, and
then suddenly the distant sound OF childish
vo,ees singing echoed from arch TO arch of the
ngn vsuited roof. The congregation rose as
ne long procession Of boys and men in their
white robes slowly advanced into the choir, the
melody gaining in depth and richness as the
older singers came nearer and then again SOAR
ting high and fresh a. the chant of an English
lark- verger closed the screen gate as the
last clergyman passed through aud the service
began
We we're rather dismanyed to find ourselves
when the clergy had taken their places sitting
sleov to elbow with the dean in his surplics
Thus custom of crowding the congregation into
We choir naturally produces some confusion
In seating, for although the ehancel is as large
- many churches IL not intended for its
present use- Opposite was a splendid
bishops chair with a gilded canopy hung with
red, but its occupant looked very old and
worn The singing vas exquisite. wonderfully
pure in tone, almost unearthly- The uniformed
soldiers, the hooded students, the whito-robed
clergy and choir all formed
WONDERFUL EAss or ARTISTIC DETAIL
eeainst the earven oak and wrought iron Of the
stalls, above which hung the faded gloriss OF
uttered banners. with the glow Of the rich