New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1891-05-10

growing importance in the Mexico OF the iuU'
which is destined to be vitalized with American
energy
An idyIlic picture is drawn of Aguas Calentes
bv boolr-writers with rose-colored glasses. II Is
described as watering place, frequented by the
wealth and fashion of Mexico. The trees anu
flowers ore unrivalled for richness OF verdure anu
coloring. The public gardens bloom all the year
round with tropical flowers. HumminS-oirus
futter among palms, oleanders and rose trees
Senortas with classic pronles. gazeue'nKe eyes
and shapey figures are strolling among cauieinao
and lilies with sprigs of jasmine in their lustrouS
hair. Sonorous silver-tongued bells I'LL 'ne ar
with melody. and when the hour for vespers sounds
Nous peons uncover their heads and STAND WIN
bent heads their lips moving in prayer Inc
facades of the adobe houses are fresooed IN "alu''
bright coors the town is uncovered With vine
wards and gardens; the market offers oewilder-
inc display of potteries. embrolderies, oranges,
nomepranates. pineapplcs bananas, strawoerrles
and candied dulces, the booths being decked WIN
Aovers. n lovely alameda leads to the hot springs,
shaded with noble trees and bordered with mar
row canal in which dusky nymphs are accustomed
70 disport themselves in the cool hours OF the
afternoon the entrances to the bath-houses sus-
rest the environs Of Rome and the interior accom-
modations are a dream of Oriental luxury ano Ia
the crypt of one of the antique closters tnere
enc old rnummi0ed monk surrounded with skulls
and tbirh-bones. more interesting. II less ancient,
than the potteries exhumed at every level OF the
historic soil of Aguas Calientes. Ihls Is the
fanciful silhouette which allures the credulous
traveller approaching the town Fascinated Dy
the rhetoric he revses his itinerary so as TO allow
himself several days for the enjoyment OF 'ne
unique attractions Of this Mexican wateringplace'
Il, it,f no mi
disenchanted by the stern prose Of experience and
condemning with coarse cynicism the poetic eA-
travagance Of imaginative book-makers.
Aguas Calientes is q watering-place without
wealth fashion. drives and scenic attractions
IT, has n central plaza and larger public garden,
each ornamented with q fountain and parterres OF
flowers: but neither is well cared for nor are
there any bewildering effects Of tropical trees
and luxuriant vegetation. The town IS Dunt on
the rocky centre Of an arid plain. where nel'her
VINEYARDS nor verdure are to be seen. SsSeo
parrots and mocking-birds in the neglected
| and dirty patios of the houses but humming-
/ birds are not on the wing. The mortality among
the beautiful senoritas must have been very greab
! during recent years, for neither at San MARCOS
when the band Is playing nor on the aianeua
in the late afternoon is there classic pronie ~
ANYTHING to suggest feminine charms. Inc churcn
bells have no silvery note, and some OF them In
the ouarter-hour jangling seem to be cracked.
The vesper hour passes without the amateur phoVo-
! rrapher's having study for Milet's "Angeius
I In the Plaza The streets are narrow and shaDDy
| the churches and public buildings are mediocre
and out of repair and the houses are low. white
washed adobe structures, without glass In inc
windows or warmth of color or pleasing courI
| Yards Oranges and green sugar cane are ~! . .I,1
| market and wretched samples OF Mexican poU.eiS
and needlework are hawked at the railway sD1Clyn
m train time but there is little else TO be bought
| in the town. There is such dearth Oh plGtui 49,
| features here that Mr. Janvier, the ony uuS
| worthy guide-compler, in Ills eIoIH w S1S So -
! thing pIeasant is forced 10 admire three IRON
! crosses surmounting churches The alameda Is a
dirt roadway traversed by niue faIIniIIe W.
a row OF tail trees and trench OF 0ptu w W. ~
! Morning and afternoon the laundry work OIL the
town is carried on here, and the visitor sees nun
dreds Of washing clothes IN ele tSh hS t1
hanging them up to dry on the rOc1S a.u cponGes
At the end of the alameda are the Banos Urlhues
with triangular pool in wnlcn Ineh, yasfi "a
children battle promiscuCusly ana wiGnout ISL ~,
of decency II is this study from lie tnao ID tne
| only novel and characteristic feature OF thls
Mexican watering.place unless II is the desccateo
monk in the crypt, the only duly cataIOgueo iAON
III Aguas Colentes which navy noS ST. 49, no said
The baths are excellent. whatever may DC s %s
of the wanton disregard OF conventonaiitles NE NE
played by the rollickng Indian hags outsoe,
water contains iron ana sulphur anu structure is
built over the springs, and a wlnolng i1 .an"s
court leads TO series OF spacious cells WIsu
where the water is four feet deep Eac ,, 80. III
| hears the name of saint and one OF them ,n ne
| legend Jesus of Nazareth fainhsriV VIZ. WI
| sacred things is not thought to Dreed conoempS
! and irreverence in Mexico, as street names u'1u
| shon SIGNS in every town witness. The tempera-
ture in centigrade reckoning is ndicatea oelo" que
| sacred name. SO that the pious Mexican, IL q
| patron saints bath be preferred may nave 70 Iace
The risk of being parboied in the steamlng waters
The Anglo-Saxon intruder regarding all alike as
hot-wnter saints and not transpOsng readily one
NTH
to crawl down the stone steps OF one pain a d
| another until one Is found that suits MN. Inc
tabled dream Of Oriental luxury In the en'lrohs
OF Rome then resolves itself INTO owe 49, sn,,
self after the bath while he smokes cigareye.
! The cost OF all this luxury is twenty cents 10
this IS added the privilege OF peerhg OUT Oh tne
crenelles, with which few OF the rooms are
furnished and surveying the pond or hot water
with its naked laundresses and swarm OF roysterlng
bathers. These coiens OF yanteee, flowsVsr' may
readily he dispensed with, for the pond is IN plain
sight from the roadway, and even from passing
railway trains. and the batbers are not sensitive
under observation There are rival baths at the
| other end Of the alameda, where the water Is OF
| uniform temperature and where large swimming
tank Is added. At either place a most invigor,
ating bath can be had the water having tonic and
possibly curative qualities owing to strong I'M
pregnatiOn OF iron well as sulphur.
A hot-water bath is wholesome thing for o
travel-stained wanderer In Mexico. bur IL does not
offer adequate compensation TO the sghtseer whose
days are numbered In this land OF the pictur-
esque. Aguas Callentes, with its hideous laun-
dresses scrubbing soiled clothes In the steamng
| trench and ducking themselves in the pool behind
the public baths is hardly worth visiting BY any
one who is pressed for time He will do better
Ia hasten on to Leon and Gnanainato, one q thriv-
ing manufacturing city. and the other quaint
mining town with picturesque and grotesque sur
! ronndingS, and not even 70 waste day in this
dilapdated and uninteresting town. Aguas
Calientes 10 lie outside the range OF the In
! dustria movement which liz Transforming the face
Of modern Mexico There is no stir of activity in