Morning journal and courier., 1891-06-10

pronounced antagonism of corn-aower blue, and the woman who adopts it must content herself with being fashionable at the expense of her looks. Every day, however, we see women who have elected on the side of fashion Nearly all intense eoiors try the complexion, and even in ex- treme youth, with good health, the com piexien will not always bear the test of striking color unrelieved.
 It Is to be regretted that the ladies' tai lors' are conceding to the taste for ieweled galloons and other forms of jeweled deco ration One might have hoped the simple severe style of dress which was hitherto associated with the tailors, would main tain its plain and tasteful character. A favorits mode of introducing the trim ming is to place it on plain cloth crowns, as an insertion between velvet folds at the foot Of the skirt, there being & correspond ing decoration on the bodice and sleeves. , The hair dressed a Ia Recamier, much like small "Pompadour," is found very becoming beneath the new and beautiful
 picture bonnets" for summer wear. This is an artistic coffure that positively de- mands smooth snowy forehead, the hair coming to decided point just at the top of the brow, and a number of airy ten drils and love-locks of hair cut purposely in hit-and-miss lengths, and combed out to lightly veil the temples. The hair at the back is arranged in loose coils, run through with jeweled head-pins. Diamond and other flashing ornaments are certainly more effective in cultures arranged high, All, however, cannot suitably or becom- ingly dress their hair thus. The piouant class of beauty is enhanced by it, but it detracts from the classic. A successful compromise with many is to arrange the hair in the f'emigrant braid" at the back ot the head, thus leaving no one portion robbed to dress the other
 Some of the prettiest bridesmaids dresses are made of the beautiful fancy lace that wonderfully copies real point patterns: The lace goes all over the gown, yelling the satin sheath slip entirely, and even extending beyond it at the neck, where the lining is cut half low, and serv- ing also as the full high transparent sleeves, the lining here being dispensed with altogether Many of the brides maids dresses are made with fitted blouse waist of lace, style, however, that IS not as becoming to the majority of fig ures as the pointed bodice. Indeed, what ever be the figure, whether good, bad or indifferent, the well-cut basque, bodice or princesse, while it brings out the most graceful features of good form, as also the merit of not exaggerating the defects
 
 accordance with Hogarthian lines of beau ty.
 'Louise 1.-The Louis XV coats are boned as far as the arched hip seam where the tabs are sewed on, but not below it. The tabs are most of them open to this seam. Some, after being lined, do not quite meet, the fullness of the skirt show ing beneath. A mourning costume would look well with bell-shaped or princesse skirt, the hem finished with five bias folds of the dress goods or crape. Make & Lou is XV coat either with plain or pleated basques, or with tabs piped with the goods or with crape, and place jabot down the front of pleated black chiffon.
 Many dressmakers are adding the founced 'dress improver," of grass cloth or moreen, to the backs of their fan pleated dress skirts, and are finding them very successful. The all-round reed finds but little favor. It has been announced abroad that fashions will be more distinct ly of the Valois type, and that ''it is very likely that none but demi-trained dresses will be fashionable" but we have become so used to tolerance and the absence of anything like tyranny in matters of dress that this bulletin from headquarters does not trouble the majority of women. The Valois effects, and features have been largely drawn upon for some seasons past. and regarding trained dresses, they will no doubt predominate in the drawing room, bat not upon the streets.