The Fort Worth gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-189?, 1891-05-07
CHAT ON FASHION.

A recent reproduction of an old print that
pOrtrayS Mrs. Hartley as Cleopatra shows
the absurditieS of dress at the time when
this famous actress personated the Egyptian
charrner. Excepting alone the immense hoops
of the Elizabethan time there is striking
likeness to the dress of a modern fashiona-
Die woman; there can be seen the long
pointed bodice. the pulled sleeves, festooned
trimming of the skirt. the pointed slippers
and the hair dressed high with three nod
ding plumes to accentuate the height. 1t is
hard to imagine the siren queen among the
lotus blossoms in such 4 garb, and when
this costume is cOntrasted with that of
Bernhard and other actresses of this day,
who have aspired TO the role of Cleopatra,
the conclusion is that however the fashion
able may look backward for styles in
dress, in the dramatic world neither good
taste nor fitness is violated as it was in the
days of the empire and the Directoire. The
girdle and the loose-fronted costume, that
are the suggestions of Bernhard. are well
adapted to slender figures, as are the
panicrs that dressmakers insist will be in
IA
short and stout and nave an extra develop
| ment about the hips the panier is absO
lutely prohibited and whether the revival
will be complete admits of question. These
are styles, however, for women of this
figure. and i stout woman who has the
good Judgment 10 select narrow-Stripes and
adopt straight lines, will make no mistake
ice. there is no fabric quite equal to the
China silk In order to fully realize these
qualities the fashioning of dress for street
wear should be simple. In making, the
skirt is absolutely plain, being drawn from
the front, so that a few wrinkles are OBJ
lained, while in the back it is gathered in
and falls in straight, full lines The basque
is 4 long, turreted one, the edges being
finished with a narrow binding of silk
braid Across the front the material is
draped so that the closing is hidden, and
the draping, which comes far across TO one
side, is fastened on the bust and at the
waist-line under stiff roSettes formed of
braid The collar is Il high one of silk
with fold of braid outlining it, and the
full sleeves that stand high on the should
ers have Il similar finish at the
wrist The skill of the dressmaker
is now exercised Oh bodices and
sleeves, and the cottOns this season re-
ceive as much attention as silks, for mo-
disteS recognize, if their customers do not.
that it is in the art of designing novel and
picturesque costumes that their skill is
demonstrated. In fact, women are learn
ing. slowly it is true in places remote from
the larger centers, that there is a place and
time for the wearing of Jewels. rich vel
vets and heavy silks, and that this place is
not the dusty street nor the time an early
morning expedition AS genuine culture
gains there will be seen u gradual disap-
pearance of such incongruities in costume
that always offend correct taste. A woman
is invariably safe in choosing a black
toilet and in wearing few jewels. Black
surah is, therefore a very serViceable ma
terial for common wear: it shakes the dust,
4 quality that does not belong TO all black
goods For general wear 4 gown of surah
is in good taste when made with plain
full skirt and tucked blouse A more
dressy garment Of the same material may
have deep scant ruffie that falls over the
front and sides. This ruffle is sometimes
put on with pointed effect, the front
being about eight inches wide and running
up at the sides to j width of eighteen
inches. The back is full and slightly
trails, the basque long and the edges out
lined with small jet beads. A waistcoat
effect is produced by full jabot of French
lace, which extends from the throat TO the
edge of the basque. The sleeves are mod
erately full and have lace cuffs as their
decoration A small, round lace cap,
formed of three ruffes, is worn with this
gown, and the bonnet accompanying it is 4
lace one, with Il jet coronet upon it; the
gloves are black undressed kid, and the
parasol is of black dotted net.
The latest advices report skirts growing
longer and wider, some of the lining skirts
being at least three yards wide, and the
center back from three TO five inches on the
ground. Front of skirts are plain or only
broken by few folds from the belt In
thin material there is slight suspicion of
panier, and the side laps over the front in
order to give chance TO trim the edge
Jabots of lace. chiffon and other light mate
rial are favorite form of trimming Where
the round waist is used by young women it
is frequently fastened in the back, the
fronts are full At the shoulder, and peasant
waist or girdle finish the lower part. In
making organdies and ginghams, sateen is
used for foundation skirts, four widths of
the light material are needed, the front
plain or slightly draped, and gathered back.
Everything tends throwing the fullness
behind, and in fan pleating care must be
taken to have them full enough and close at
the waist, to admit of the necessary widen
ing out at the bottom of the skirt. From
the skin-tight sleeve, that might be evolved
from the odd pieces left after bodice and
skirt We're cut, there has been marked
change. The prudent cutter will do her