The evening world., 1891-06-08

Even fairly clever dressmaker may be nom
plussed by a change In the make OF q skirt, and
a country dressmaker, however accomplished
in the art OF shaping and banging skirt, may
yet fail in giving her costume the proper ap-
pearance by putting II into obtrusive organ
plaits when depressed box plait is In fashion,
or by sloping the front breadth into the band
at time when 1t ought 10 be shaped into small
cores at the waist. The woman who ID mis-
tress OF the subject OF dress well understands
that the skirt ia the one part OF her costume
which Is especially adaptable to circumstances
il is the fashioning Of the skirt which marks
the difference In morning gowns, between
the house dress and the walking costume, or,
In lighter attire. the ball gown and the dinner
or AZ "At Home" toilet Again, on the
style OF a dress skirt ohieny depends the grace
or the awkwardness OF lady'B appearance
she may look tall or short sylph-like or stout,
Juvenile or passe, In accordance with the ar
rangement or mtsmanAgement OF her draper
les. The skirt may, In a word, be tho most he
coming part Of a dress, or, on the other hand.
It may not only emphasize unRrAcefuluess, but
even suggest awkwardness where 1t actually
does not eXHist.
daughter Of Sir Morell Mackenzie, weary OF the
idle life, has plunged into "trade, as they
say in London, and Is reporting for the London
edition OF New York paper.
The reason so few women "catoh on ia be-
cause their gloves are too tight
Princess Beatrice has had q babyB high
chair named after her, and there is q pet
ticoat on the London market called the Duchess
OF Fife. Truly the homage to royalty is great.
Crepons are INFINITE in variety, gauffred in
| all sorts OF ways, some simply cotele, others
| crepe; others, again, FIRST crepe, then cotele;
| some crepe ana divided into small squares
| formed by the Intersection OF groups OF two or
| three threads, and some gauffred in a design
| resembling the skin Of q serpent With the
exception of the various navy blues in which
| these materials are to be had, they are usually
| in soft tones and pale coloIs, lavender. hop
and sage green, maize, cork color, dust
color, and all the Ramut OF grays
and beigeS such are the tints most
in favor Tor Spring dresses. A new
variety OF these corued materials is called
Pantalon de Cheval," and is especially sup
pie and nne Another new material liz the so
called velvet cloth, manufactured only in two
colors-Vlz., beige aud cnamoiA Apropos OF
cOlors, an exception to the range of soft tones,
and color to be avoided, IL what IL called
"Vert billiard, which is exactly as itA name
indicates, the coarse hue of billiard cloth.
The crepoLs are all self-colored, az regards
materials with patterns the most In vogue, and
the newest are the cheVronnes, In which the
stun Is entirely covered with Q senes OF Va,
either In two contrasting colors, or in tones
of the same color and then come the pSstiles,
or spots OF all sizes, those preferred being oval
and rATher large. As regards the make of the
dresses, the oollant sull holds Its own, and
pAniers are little or never seen, except on
evening dresses OF soft crepe or mouSSeline de-
sole, and then 1t is more what the dressmaEerl
call movement OF the drapery than regu
lar pRnier.