The Arizona champion., 1891-03-07
EXECUTIVE EPICURES.
The Very Swell Dinners al
 Washington.
EUROPEAN MINISTERS WHO SPLURGED
Extravaganza and Luxury Introduced
 by President Buchanan.

It was at the time of Mir Buchanan s | administration that the most marked change in dinner giving commenced. A new mode of serving dinners came in, more expensive, of course, for 1t necessi- tated additional servants and other auXil- iaries. Gautier had opened large con- | fectionary and restaurant, and had, with : Wormley, a monopoly of serving swell ] dinners. Some of the more old fashioned in social life regarded his mode an in- novation and refused to acknowledge its superiority.
 The most marked difference consisted in reforming the entrees and the wines. etc., served with each. He it was who, in place of the Sauterne or wine of that character, served with the raw oysters, with which all dinners commenced, fur nished a frozen punch called Arabian punch. It was white and frozen to the consistency of cream. amusing incl dent of this innovation occurred at din ner given by Marshal Hoover. Among the guests was Col. Sam Stambaugh, of Pennsylvania, a very noted political leader in that day and friend of Mir. Buchanan.
 SAD BLOW AT PUNCH.
 The colonel was late, and he arrived after the guests had finished oysters and punch, and were on the soup. He made his apology and took his seat. His oys- ters and punch awaited him, and con versing with his neighbor, he commenced spreading the punch over his oysters. It was observed, of course, and the gentleman next him said:-"Colonel, ex- cuse me, but that is punch"
 1.-The - it is!'' said the colonel; "I thought it was horse radish."
 The table was in roar, and the colo nel, recognized authority in such mat ters, denounced this new style and pleaded in favor of the old fashion, and gave dinner a few evenings after, which was served in the old style. It made no impression on the new style, however, which continued to be the rage, increas- ing in variety and expense.
 The coloners experience of the new order that evening did not end with the punch. With the dessert was served what was then entirely new-biscuit glace in different colors and in paper cases. He looked at the one placed be- fore him and said to his neighbor, in tones of disgust audible to the whole table: Shaving soap, by"
 Fashion, more powerful than any op- position, was on the side of Gautier G Wormley, and the old style gradually was wiped out. The dinners at the ex- ecutive mansion were more lavish under MT. Buchanan's administration. There was very perceptible change in mode and responsiveness, and of course it pre- vailed in the private dinners.
 Slidell and Benjamin gave expensive dinners, and one of your representatives at that time, Gen. Sickles, occupied a fine house on Lafayette square and gave most elaborate dinners and suppers. He lived most expensively, entertained lib- erally, and from one of these dinners of exceptional elegance, given on the Thurs day before the fatal rencontre with Bar ton Key, which occurred on Sunday, he was called to learn, as was testified to at the trial, the particulars of the affair which led to the killing of Key.
 Senator William M. Gwin represented California, and occupied the large man. sion on street, near Nineteenth, where his dinners and entertainments were mo- table Mrs. Gwin's fancy ball furnished as much talk and exhausted as much preparation, in the costumes worn, as the great ball of the Vanderbilts year or two ago. It was very fine affair.
 GORGEOUS FOREIGN FETEs.
 There was a good deal of the swell attributes in the entertainments of that period which might be attributed to the example set at the White House. There were several distinguished foreign vis- itors during the administration, and they were entertained with lavish and elegant hospitality, and the example of the president was followed.
 The English minister at about that time, Lord Napier, entertained ire quently and with great elegance. He was popular beyond any of his prede- cessors, was very general in his invita- tions, and mixed a good deal with the people of Washington, attending "stag" parties, then prevalent in the club, con gressional and official life of Washing ton. Before his return to England ball was given to him and Lady Napier by senators and members of congress, off cials and citizens, and very handsome affair it was.
 The foreign legations have always ex- ercised very potent influence in Wash ington society. Naturally so, as they enjoyed a position that entitled them to every social attention. The influence of wealth had, up to the close of Mir. Folks administration, made but little impress sion. The old families who, with the army and navy and officials, made up the social life of Washington, were as select as McAllister's 400.
 There was but little wealth among them; competence and comfort were about the standard reached at that time. A few years changed it all. The inroad of wealth drove out the old substantial style, and the new regime brought new modes and larger expenditures.
 Each season newer styles; each season more expense and, of course, more ele- gance. The cost of dinners and parties swelled into thousands, where hundreds were formerly expended. This increase of entertainment and the general invita- tions extended to official receptions brought to the city class of people, male and female, who, without the so- cial recognition at their homes entitling them to the entree, forced themselves into every entertainment without invita- ton and with no acquaintance with those upon whose hospitality they in fringed.
 That style of thing continues to this day, and some efforts for protection from these hordes is needed.-Cor. New York Telegram.