The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1891-09-27

KNOT.
sack. 1t is perhaps a little longer than
the ordinary sack, and is made with a
shawl coIIar-not necessarily, but in many
cases. The shawl collar is a soft roll
with the silk facing carried all the
way around the neck. 1t isn't so ugly as
the reader may suppose If he hasn't hap
pened to see it. The Tuxedo is also called
tea coat 1t is coming more into use
where 1t is appropriate, and has happily
failed to extend its dominion into places
where it ought not to go. An effort was
made not long ago to force the Tuxedo for
ward as a substitute for the regulation
swallow tail, but it failed. 1t has been
worn during the summer at some dinners,
and at the seaside for lawn parties, and
sometimes even on the tennis ground
when anything in particular was accru-
ing. 1t is stag party" coat in the city,
out it is as much out of place as a smok-
ing jacket in full dress assembly.
The material for the Tuxedo is fine
vicuna or diagonal and occasionally a
cheviot or a broadcloth.
In regulation evening dress there is little
change. The shawl collar is worm and the
coat shows the effect of the tendency to-
ward extension. McAllister's dictum that
one must never be able to see the skirts of
q dress coat can hardly hold this year. |
may add that it never meant much any
way, for one of our skeleton dudes with no
shoulders and a neck like a giraffe, could
see the small of his back if he had energy
enough to turn around.
The pantaloons here, as elsewhere, are
little smaller. The vest may be of white
silk or Marseilles.
A complete fall wardrobe includes three
overcoats. The covert coat is sort of
riding garment, very short and split up
the sides. 1t is made of very light mate
rial. The cut does not differ from that of
! lac Ahot Al s.. ~ III
man needs a lightweight Chesterfield.
This is called in America a single-breasted
overcoat. The tendency this year is to
make them from two to three inches
longer, but otherwise there is no change.
To be worn over dress suit the Inverness
cape is the proper thing-lightweight for
the fall, heavy for the winter. The Inver-
ness is made of the undressed worsted
In hats we have distinct change. Dun
lap claims 1T is his. As many men know
to their sorrow the prevailing style in
Derbys for several years has been the mar
row rolled brim, very much pitched"
front and rear. This sort of hat is still put
forward by some hrst-class hatters, and
am told that it is worn in England. But
he who wants something different can
have it, and feel sure that he is in the ad-
vance guard of fashion. The crown is
still the same shape as last year, but the
brim is much broader and flatter and the
turned edge of it is nearly horizontal at
the sides instead of being tilted up at an
angle There is a change in the trimmings
too. Instead of the rather narrow band of
fine ribbed CLOTH a coarse ribbed band a
quarter of an inch wider is worn, and is
really much handsomer.
The bell crowned plug" hat | have
already spoken of. A new thing which
Dunlap shows is a soft crowned hat which
is not to be worn creased. The top is to
be pressed in gently, making symmet-
rical hollow that does not show except
one looks down upon it. When worn this
hat has the effect of square topped
Derby.
The hats have described are in three
colors: Seal brown, coffee brown and
black. Browns are coming into fashion,
are in fashion, indeed-and many swells
will make a soul satisfying harmony with
brown hats and brown coats.
AS to ncckwear there Is little TO say.
Collars are of two shapes, the straight
ones that meet in front, and those with
the points turned back, but without space
below the bend. Only the former can be
worn on dress occasions. A white or very
| light necktie should not be worn in the
| daytime. For informal occasions in the
evening. where a cutaway coat will do, 3
| white four-in-hand or, better. an Ascot
| scarf may be worn. BY the way, Haskell
! d Haskell have patented an Ascot scarf.
| This Is rather an unusual achievement.
! The patent is, of course, in the mechanical
! working which is so complex that Il cut of
/ ii is given here. 1t is easy enough after one
knows it, like picking up dove hitch or
| tying TOm-fool's knot. And it's pretty
| scarf.
The latest color in scarfs is called sultan
! red. 1t is deeper than the shade which
has prevailed. smooth fabrics and plain
| colors are now correct.
But what does it cost? | have seen so
| many exaggerated figures that am glad
| To finnish SOME which are reasnn ahle