The critic., 1891-01-08
THE FASHIONS,

The first new mode for '0l appears in
the form of a black duchesse satin walking
jacket, heavily trimmed with black
knotted silk fringe, beaded with round
studded nailtheads formed of black silk
cord.
The Louis XIII. coat, with short back
and long,ta6bed 'front.', is effective for
black silk dresses, when. made with
sleeves, and tabs and collar of velvet,
brocaded all over with close shell OF YER
micclh pattern in gold.
A new figure introduced into the cotil-
lion is to have the gentlemen armed with
toy foils, spiked with buttons in the shape
Of powder puifs covered with powder,
and to have them fence bit with their
partners before the waltz.
Gold and silver pointed lace, jeweled, is
one Of the newest trimmings, and is set
with all the imitation gems. A beautiful
new evening fabric is Of black silk Brus-
sells net, strewn with Il design of double
clover leaves, carried out in gold set with
large milliners' rubies and sapphircs.
A very dainty and becoming evening
dress for young girl is of pale-ycllow
silk with chiffon ilounces caught up with
Cupid bows Of silver. The top of the skirt
is shirred on to the Corsage beneath a
silver girdle Clasped with two Cupid bows,
and the puffs on the shoulder have the
same device in silver.
Furs are worn even in Rome, where
there has been as yet little cool weather
to render them comfortable, and the fur
and feather shops in that summer land
are among the most brilliant and popular
in the COiso. Astrakhan seems to be the
favoritc, perhaps because the beloyei
Queen Marguerite affects IL in Combina-
tiOn with blue.
The neck Of new evening gowns is very
modCstly low and Is more often cut round
or square than pointed. Sleeves of tullc
COWS are worn pulfcd to the wrist aud
| the gloves that have but one button, lie
| Henri DeuX bodice, with puifs ON the hips
| and high frills ON the shoulder, White
| is the approved choice for evening gloves
\ and they are worn smooth ON the arm
barely reaching the elbow
The tea-gown is rapidly giving place 10
| the house-dress, built somewhat upon the
| lines, but closer, trimmer and less sug-
! gestive of loungng dress. II "a close,
| fitting robe, cut ea priHccssa, slightly drdped
in front and trailing in the back II is
made with high or half-high neck, with
sleeves or with mere wings Of crepe and
can Ice put on for afternoon tea and warn
all the evening, unless there Is u dinner
party nccessitatng full dress.
With white gowns il is considered gl1 |
taste to wear suede in the natural
color, with high heels and a small buckle
on the insicp. Gold and silver kid shoes
are in such great demand that il is ditli
cult to procure the kid in sufficient guam
titles to meet the demand Velvet calf In
all oolors is used for evening shoes, which
are now trimmed round the top with
bands OF g,ld or silver laid on Gllorel
satin. Bridesmaids shoes are made ol
white suede, covered all over with Stars oi
bead embroidery or Of checks of baby rib
bon stitched on smoothly, the points ol
the checks meeting over the foot.
The one thing neodfnl and most con
duciyo TO a girls perfect happiness Is {
"lobe de chGmbro' 10 slip on after tn,
cotilllon or the opera Is over and she sit
down 20 talk 1t all over with the othe
girls while she loosens her hair. TneS
are made Of the very softest silk in pail