The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1891-12-06
THE MAN OF FASHION.
HoW TO MAKE a KICK THAT WILL
IMPRESS YOUR TAILOR

IMPRESS YOUR TAILOR
Points for the Man Whose Clothes Do
Not Fit him Showing Where the
Trouble May Lie, and How it Should
Be Remedied.
(Copvrioht)
NEW YORK, Dec. 5.-Of 100 men who are
able to dress fairly well there is one whose
clothes fit him. OF the other ninety-niue. a
yreat majority allow themselves to be de.
celved into one Of two opinions, viz: That
the garments are all right, or that the
wrinkles, bags and distortions are necessary
evils. There are, however, a few who real
ize that something is the matter, and that
the tailor is responsible, but they do not
know what to do about it. They go from
one tailor to another, seldom ordering more
than one suit from any, and cherishing in
their souls a feeling of animosity against
the entire sartorial profession, which NAV
be Just enough, but will never take the
bag out Of the knees Of a pair Of pauta-
Icons.
| wish to give few hints which. IL thew
do not enable the reader to get bis moneys
worth in every case, will teach him how to
make a "kick" that will be understood
The subject Is worth attention. Well fit
ting clothes may not be as important as a
good moral character, but they have the
great advantage in this hurrying country
OF being visibleiat glance.
In the first place, young man, know your
figure thoroughly. Make a careful and
honest investigation. II you are bow
legged or narrow-chested admit the fact to
yourself, and do what you can to remedy
the defects. I haven't time to discuss this
part of the subject. Many excellent articles
on physical development have been pub
lsned in the last few years in the leading
magazines. and they will repay careful
study. Having learned what type of man
you are you will be able to see what tailor
can do for you. Never attempt to repair A
defect artiflcially unless the art can be
wholly concealed. Don't pad your shout
ders unless you are absolutely certain that
the most prying eye will fail TO discover it.
Then make up your mind that you will
never accept suit of clothes that doesn't
fit you; and stick TO it. You will thus do a
service not only to yourself, but to man
kind. If there is real defect in garment
do not let any knight of the shears bluff or
bull or cajole you into paying for it. Let
him understand your position at the start.
and there will be no trouble.
The following points concerning some of
the most common and most annoying Of
misits, with suggestions of the remedies.
are derived from conversations with one Of
the most skillful cutters in the city, and
from your own painful experience. When
you are being measured for a suit of clothes
assume a natural position. Do not attempt
TO conceal any Of the eccentricities of your
figure. If you have au idea that your right
shoulder is lower than your left, don't try
to even them up by your posture. If you
are boT-legged don't press your knees to-
gether from sentiment of false shame.
Don't initiate your chest to the point OF ex-
plosion because you like to heear Hercu-
lean measure called out to the clerk.
Tell the cutter clearly and conciselv the
effects which you desire, and see that he
makes memoranda. Ii he puts on what DR..
Holmes calls the "giugeroread rabbit ex-
PRESTON" signifying total lack of interest
in the subject, you may be sure that he in
tends to cut the cloth entirely by system.
In that case you have about one chance in
thousand Of being fitted. Let the cutter
understand that you want the clothes for
some mythical average man. If you have
bad trouble in getting suited heretofore.
describe it.
After the cutter has done his work there
comes the man who makes up the suit, aud
he frequently ruins garments that have
been properly cut. That is why two suits
ferent. One Of them has been given to an
inferior workman. In such q case let the
proprietor of the shop understand that you
know what the trouble is and that tte suit
which fails to please must be brought up to
the grade of the other or you would refuse
to taEe 1t.
Now suppose that you are trying on the
suit, and examining 1t critically. We will
begin with the coat. Be sure that YOU ere
fullV II tho taiIor f,,to
place he can make it look all right for a
lew minutes, or so long as you keep still;
but unfortunately you will not always have
The benefit of his assistance. So make
yourself certain that tho coat has come as
near to your body in every place as it will.
Then look it over carefully. Ii it doesn't
break over the shoulder, you are in luck.
Most coats do. In the most common case
you notice the "break" or wrinkle Just for
ward Of your collar bone; a tightness over
the top button; pinching just in front of
the shoulder blade. Examine carefully for
these defects and then watch the tailor mark
the alterations. Ii be knows his business be
will locate the trouble where, perhaps, you
wouldn't suspect tin tho shoulder point.
lthe tells YOU that he can get the fullness out
with an iron, or by little change IN the
sea OF the top of the shoulder, don't you
believe him. Tell him that the shoulder is
too straight" That is the technical term.
IL means that the line Of the gorge, or curve
for the neck, is not DETECTED sufficiently
That throws the shoulder point into the
wrong place. That is the criticalEspot in &
coat. My friend, the cutter, told me that
more study had been bestowed upon this
SPOT than upon any other, but that the in
formation obtained was not yet fully salts
factory. However, in the case have cited,
the tbing to do is to cut little off at the
gorge. This will not affect the position of
The collar as you might think That is
regulated by the back piece. II the first
alteration in your coat doesn't produce the
DESIRED effect, find out whether the tailor
mas attacked the shoulder point.
have had tailors tell me that the "break"
at the shoulder could not be remedied. That
Is nonsense. You will not get that story
"uile the tailors are trying to get your
order. Make him fix it till you are sure
mat the coat presses equally upon every
part Of the shoulder. 1t is often easy TO see
tpat the ends are bearing all the weight of
tue garment This insures your diSsatis-
laetlon, very boil wv shoulder may need
ht5le padding, but usually resort to that
remedy indicates deficiency in your tailor's
grasp of his business.
sometimes a coat draws along line from
Suuer the arm to point near the back
oultoh on that side. This is caused by a
little short.
"a, "A low collar, drawing away from the
i LecA, Is caused by short back part; q COLI
81 tuaI wants to climb over your head
& do, II