The sun., 1891-03-15

the work OF the two collaborators has been Is.
sued from the Do Vinne press. q pleasure to
the eye and the touch in all that makes vol
ume. IN size. paper, Typography, something to
enjoy Gentlemen us ono OF series. the
| first OF which appeared nearly thirty-two years
ago In French Before Breakfast" the
handbook which Mr.. sprigeins consulted
when he put tho sign "Icl on
Psrle Francais" in his front parlor
window. and prepared to receive boarders.
Like that famous handbook. Gentlemen +"
will provo holp to those who use It: It will
provo . Joy to those who know It all before-
hand. Il cannot but help the ignorant who read
IL In state Of receptivity. Unlike too many
books. Of "Gentlemen" It may be said with
truth. that It can do no harm; the non believer
in it's maxims will not follow them. the bo-
llever cannot but be improved By accepting
| them as a guide.
Simplex Munditiis"-simple In nestness-is
the motto Of our authors: for convenience
which in this case Jumps with truth. We shall
| designate the tailor. author As Simplex" and
the gentleman-author as "Mundltiis"
Gentlemen" is divided into two parts
DRESS for Gentlemen" and Ess ential Gus.
toms for Gentlemen" Each part has separate
table OF contents and separate Introduction.
Say the writer's in their Introductory intro.
duotion:
OIess - tho emooulment OF TASTE ana fonnemenk A
man looks aud 10 distinguished when he shows simple
elegance In his dross II 10 have wealth
In order TO dress we'll With Judgment aud economy
one can be something Of dresser. This book 10 but
guide for men who desire to dress and perplsx.d
BY the multitude Of things there to wear and the
ever changing styiea When thing becomes vusarly
popular then II wish drsss we'll ~ man.
nerA gentleman. east 1t aside and seek somsthine
newer aud less common Dressing may be carried to
extent but 10 good TO do So Each Dor
IN hA o0,,I
dress he must dress regards material richly and -
to pattern OF cloth. plainly. In other words simple
| elegance shows the gentleman.
Tho authors set limitations to their book IN
these well-chosen words: THE attire for all
athletic games, sports. amusements, for the
clergy. and gentlemen In the army and navy,
It Is not within the province OF this work to
treat Of. In fact. We treat OF only that which 10
worn by gentleman at hons or abroad, in
summer or winter. when mngling in society"
Having thus set forth their design. the authors
proceed to examine O gentleman from head
to foot and describe what he wears and whom
and how he wears 1t.
The black felt Derby is the thing to wear with
walking or sack body coat" and It mover
should be worn with the frock body coat, cut
away body coat. Cowss body coat. or dress
body coat" tBy body coat" Simplex {"
means simply coat The use Of this express
sion is one OF our reasons for considering
"Simplex" tailor. Body coat" is distinc.
lively . tailor's word.l Gentlemen do not wear
pearl. gray. drab. slate. or cigar brown Derbys,
and they have their black Derbys made to Or
der. They have their gloves made 10 order:
and they never wear glove after It becomes
soiled: It 10 as bad as having dirty hands,"
The Body.-fhe body coat: This is black sack body
coat either double single breasted present they
are made with four buttona wide collars and very
long In the body. The wAstooat: This always matches
the body coat in material and pattern Trousers These
may Be ofany material and pattern that your trous
have the and At perfectly at once
the most difficult TO At and the ugliest part-f Ill nttng
of the attire for mon; therefore give the most
ton In order to have them cut correctly you must
rely the fashion plate and Its accompanying direo
tiona
There IL also the cutaway suit for morning wear
This IL worn mostly by elderly and heavily built mon.
II consists Of cutaway body coat four butons waist
coat single and trouser These three pieces
are always Of the same material and pattern.
Never wear trousers and waisteoat of pattern
andibody cost another; 1t is exceeding bad taste.
However one may quarrel with our authors
English no ono can combat their rules; but
their next statement is open to objection: "A
Morning Promenade Dress.-This consists of
irock body coat. waistcoat. and trousers: these
three pieces are always cut from the same ma
terial and pattern. Only light shades OF cloths
arc used. Never have this promenade dress in
black" One sees such promenade dress"
on the stage. 1t Is true. but how often of tho
stage7
In the afternoon the black silk top hat is
worn-"the only proper hat for afternoon dress
In summer or winter"
The Bods-Ths proper body oeat II the black eutaway
This should be of light weight dress body coat
Tho wateoat should bs cut own 'front.' that the large
pun scarf may be we'll exposed Four buttona Mover
trousers Of the same material the body coat
or wastcos, as It is not afternoon dress pockets
placed In trousera they apt 70 bo used this
spols the set Of the cloth around the hips Therefore
leave them out II possible. Al rule the bottoms Of
trousers should be turned up-about two inches-whe
walking in the street OF . clear day this is
unnecessary.
Sroek B'dv Ceat-This Is the formA afternoon dress
body In Paris the mon wear no other 1t never
worn before 1901 N. Nis worn at day wsddiugs at
tsas, receptions and on the promenade The same
things are worn with frock body coat with cut.
away body coa. The wardrobe Of sgsntsmsn 10 never
complete without one or more frock body ooata
Th. ss Is e;aSn for T..
Esssa to o3s Of his ss9rs gentleman has
h :sess 3, sSssHe sy atsss SS
they ,eiolaim. is the eullninatIo oi grandeur
heass as fs o. reseonsbls Hsxsi
wise gaysst time OF the day"
only here ~ - n .is:rroon d,..s Ths srush
TOP hat should BE- carried In the left hand The sxcsp
tona 20 this rule are dances evening receptions and
dinnsrs
1as Ha:a.Ths Whit: hid siev. .lw.ys goes With
q OF during atnnsr. 70 other covering should g
81
cooIsd OR any Ugh. Shsdss Of doves with evening
.ss ;s:Ss: ss IL:
your dress unless you 90 do
The TodE-Ths evening drsss body coat 10
now made OF nne di.Eonsls Of almost silky texture
Never wear any kind OF binding on the body coat Tho
sylsA ohsuns sseh year shouldbs folio red min utsiy
In him 81 all
s.S y: ;:s e K. n:ss.s
HSs shss sst q: G Gbsdy SosI Lssv' :s' R.sisa va:
Woussr lssl Width Of isrI medium
\. The catholic t4sts Of our suth3Is Il shown 10
this section: knes Brssches-These may BE-
worn In place OF dress trousers at any grand
ball, reception. or soiree. They are black silk
or black satin or same material as dress body
pAtant leather And hlRgk afIk