The evening world., 1891-05-06
The WAYS OF WOMAN FAIR.
Fads, Fashions and Fancies That
Delight the Gentler Sex.

.Iot retains the favor II has enjoyed for some
years. II is drcssy and tie most effective
ornament of black dress or a black hat.
Modern fashion makes It also a fsvorite on
light colored dresses or bonnets. on
cloth dTefses black or light let Is also
used, ohieny In ricn, beautiful designs which
cover the whole 'front.' length or the side OF a
skirt, also covering the sleeves, and are re-
produced In smaller sized design on the plas-
iron and gtandiog collar, the Stuart collar aud
girdc. This style OF trimmings aro exact
limitations OF soutache c)rding, VI which the
tine mohair or silk cord is replaced by jet.
Lace rouncing for trimming India silks.
which IL especially desirable. has an edge Oh
the upper Ms well as the lower part.
There viii be a greater demand for invisible
hair nets, especially the cap-shaped nets, than
there has been for yeare, for the soft curls ana
the frizZed fronts are apt 10 become quickly
disordcred under hats and bcnnets. Great
care should be taken In putting them op, or
with fine hair n most unbecoming line Is apt 10
be formed over the forehead. Jewelled nets
for the back OF the hair, ana other curious
varieties known TO the past generation and In
favor when mIddlc-agcd women were young,
are oeiLg resuscitated.
Nine. Belloc makes an earnest appeal for
homes to be established In London for the
dying. Its hard 10 realize, yet II Is true
nevertheless That there is no refuge or hospi-
| tai but the workhouse for the iyilg poor. In
Dublin the Sisters CT Charity have established a
u splendid hospital for those approaching their
end. Nine. Belloc pleads for the establishment
OF such q home in London. Miss Davidson, u
Scotch lady, has Anticipated Nine. Beioc's
appeal by the small nome she organized at
| Mildmay, containing ten beds. intended for
the dying. Thi, homo is called Friedenh elm,
nd every year the lady who keeps II mp at her
| own expense refuses some three hundred an
pllcations for a1miitance from dying men.
The average number received during the year
at Friedenheim Is forty.
French laces to be applied as rufles, and
| heavier laces, Gs point de Genes, TO he laid on
natly, are Sold In large quantities for trimming
plain and figured silk grenadine and net gowns.
| The new paIasols are truly wonderful and
show a faith In coming sunshine which 1t Is to
be- hoped will be justified. One OF the
newest under the name Of Flots lie Mer IL quite
a novel departure, and truc TO Its name, the
outside surface presents very much the aspect
OF sea waves Tho one rib raised, the alter
nate rib depressed. The speclmeus l have
seen were made IN coffee loured-siik lace, or
in black or white lace. or OF chiffon. This
white silk lace, fringed with grass, Is to be a
feature In fete parasois. and IN lieu OF ordin iry
fringe. silk is cut up into strips and introduced
as trimming.
| Tortoise shell will continue IN favor as the
more refined OF any material for ordinary orna-
| mentaiion for the reason that u suits the Greek
style, and can be worked into so many differ
ent styles OF ornament. How much pret,ier
! ana more suitable Is II, to ste n young lady's
couture Dnished OF with a fancy shell comb
or ornamental rims Than those big, glaring imi-
tat!on stones and false jeweiry, which iatterly
have done duty too often for real stones and
gold. The comb used for tie small cnignop,
high up on the back OF the .ad, " not large,
but approaches more the siz: If an ornamented
trident pin.
| A home for lonely women Is about TO he
erected at Helsingborg. in Sweden. The home
VIII provide pleasant and cheap residence for
women, and there will be common room, with
Itmay safely be taken for granted that in
this land Of the free no fashion, however costly,
remains exclusive, Even II II be not repro
duced IN cheaper materials, as IL often the
case, once let the average woman ascertain
that It Is fashionable and the heavens may
fail, her family &c hungry and her aus
band be LanIruptcd, but she has It.
Any foreigner who took walk through
any tenemen'-house district on a nne Sunday
afternoon would be amazed to see the clothinQ q
worn by the young women who emerge FROM
these squalld quarters. Few art the hands with.
out kid gloves ana plush coats; os,r.cn feathers
and artificial flowers are abundant. Often they
represent Incredible toil and struggle, Tor the
savea 10 dress are not the rich niOndn iEes who
order what they fancy from their tailors oil
dressmakers. but the women who laboriously
initiate them, making their own clothes ant
putting INTO them an appalling amount OF timt
and vital energy. From my little onc-story
frame Shau,y, the last remnan; OF one Of III,
uptown squatter districts aud apparently tn,
abode OF ahject poverty, We have seen emerg,
a woman, evidently The occdpan,, dressed II
n silk gown, Kid gloves, fur cape and velve
, bonnet.