The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1890-04-12
THE HON z.
DREssMAKING NOTES,

tile seams anu press tu6u nat III IRONING
dress use piece of cambria to prevent
gloss. The iron must not touch the cloth.
French cambria is considered the best lin
ing for dress that is to be worn great
deal, for the reason that 1t is light in weight,
has glazy finish that maks it easy to get in
and out Of 1t, and, more than that, it clings
to the figure as no other drilling will but
silk, and it has also durability to recommend
it. Five yards and half is an abundance
for the waist and skirt.
Never buy black cambria for a lining, as
the dye is more than likely to soil the under
wear. For black transparency or open cloths
there are double-faced sllesias, which are
black on one side and pearl or figured cream
color on the other. With lace or grenadine,
jet or net, black silk lining Is indispensable,
and then care should be taken to get fast
black.
Seams that are stitched with silk wear
longest and fall in, as 1t were, as all cotton
or cotton or half-silk stitching never does.
With fine silk and a fine needle the machine
seams, IL well pressed, are almost Invisible,
surely iuconspicuous.
Don't forget a yard o. bvltl ng, with a
couple Of big hooks and eyes. to put inside
the waist to take the strain off the front Of
the basque; one 10-inch steel to throw the
skirt out from the heels. one yard of cotton
tape to tie it with, and half Of silk elastic to
hold the fullness of the skirt in the back.
There is no economy in getting one grade
of lining for the body OF the waist and an
inferior article for the sleeve. Quite as much
strain is at the elbow as elsewhere, and II
protected by good lining the arm Will not
work through the goods.
For casing get galloon binding and stitch 1t
on the seam so that it will lie in wrinkles.
Unless you are an expert, don't try to make
castings out of lining, outherwise you will
have clumsy seams. A piece Of gall0on will
cost twenty-five cents and supply couple OF
dresses. .4 Ky, .-.rl....-
This is an era of hooks and eyes, few but
tons being used. Various patants have been
made, but the old fashioned hook and eye
still hangs on, and with plenty of sewing and
placed alternately, that is first hook and
then an eye along both sides, instead of
hooks on one side and eyes on the other, the
basque will stay closed as securely as with
buttons. If desired, eyes can be butt0nhole
stitched with twist the color of the dress.
Buy one good dress, make 1t well as you
know how, put 1t on and wear 1t out. Better
one serviceable, neatly made dress in year
than three apologies. You can't get dress
and have it street suit and evening toilet,
and there is no use trying. Ii you want q
street suit by all means make it street suit
and walk in it, shop in it. travel in 1t, call
In 1t, wear 1t to church and to the theatre,
put a panel of brocade in the skirt or vest
Of silk gauze in the bodice. Such treatment
is preposterous, 1t makes .moDgrel OF an
otherwise ideal costume.
After the facings are put on the skirt,
press the seams flat, haste the edges together
thickly and stitch on the braid. Then roll
1t over and fell with strong thread or twist,
remembering to cut the two VS. one inch
vide and two long in the middle of the
front breadth, six inches apart This gives
what tailor would call spring to the skirt,
and prevent it from drawing across the feet
in walking.
In woollens of forty-two inches you will
need eight yards for dress; 81 YARDS SSS Of a1d
fourteen yards of challie width are needed
A silk dress requires from sixteen to eigh-
teen yards according to the width Of the
fabric.-New York World.
SIMPLE COSMETIC.
There is nothing that equals fresh butter
milk for removing tan, freckles, sunburn Of
moth spots. 1t has the great advantage thai
it does not injure the skin. but renders 1t soil
like little child's. Take soft cloth. OF
sponge and battle the face, neck and arms
thoroughly with buttermilk before retiring
for the night; then wipe off the drops lightly,
dry with crash towel. Two or three srch
baths will take off all the tan and freckles.
1t will keep the hands soft and smooth. 1.-THE
acid of the buttermilk answers far better
purpose than any powder or paste that Is In
drug store. 1t is simple remedy, but
effectual.
TO sCALD MILK PROPERLY.
1t is recommended that the milk supply of
cities, at least in hot weather, be scalded as
soon as received by the customers, to pre-
vent its souring. To scald milk properly,
the following method is advised: Take a
thin glass bottle provided with a rubber
cork, fill it with milk nearly up to the neck.
ayd place it uncorked in kettle of water.
which should then be gradually brought to a
boil When steam has commenced to escape
from the bottle, cork 1t lightly. and continue
the boiling from thirty-fve to forty minutes,
and the process will be complete. A bottle
of milk thus prepared. 1t is said, will remain
sweet month If kept in a cool place and
tightly corked.-Journal of Health.
SOME GOOD HoMELY NOTIONS.
Never eat with the table against the wall.
1t may be the beginning of the pernicious
housekeeping habit Of ''letting things &c"
Always set out your table and dress it as
we'll as you can.
Never use ragged dish cloth. When that
weapon of the pantry begins to be ragged,
discard it, and put something whole in its
place. You cannot afford to be slovenIy in
There is a good deal of fuss in using an
oven thermometer. but If you get accustomed
to using 1t you will find 1t as nice as using
dairy thermometer. srG
The proper hour for dinner in farmers
home is IL O'Clock, and blessed is the house
wife who has the meal all ready on the table
at the hours striking, hot and well done.
Don't keep the parlor dark unless you
value your carpet more than your own and
your children's health.
COPYING A TISSUE PATTERN.
Any one who has struggled with the task
Of taxing off," as they express it, tissue
pattern, will agree with me that 1t is just
about as tiresome thing as falls to WON.
ans lot to perform. However. like every.
thing else in life, little ingenuity will save
hours of worry. Let the material upon
which you lay your pattern be either black
or brown cambria. Then call into use your
powder puff, instead of a chalk pencil and
deal of patience. A few firm dabs and you
have transferred TO your goods perIecl
copy of the innumerable small holes tnat &c
| to make up the major part Of paper patterr
and a desperate backache. Must admit 1T
This bright and original idea emanated iron
| a mans brain. Seeing his best beloved en-
| gagged in hand-to. hand fight with the intri
cacies Of darts and seams. the poor fellow
in fit Of desperation excamea ss t;mn IN, Sa,
| It takes to tell 1t my lady was beaming upol
| him in Just the sweetest sort OF way.-Phila
| delpia Inquirer.
COFFEE CHARLOTTE Russo.
Soak one tablespoonful of gelatlne II
one tablespoonful of cold water, stirring
often. Sweeten one pint of thick cream
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