Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-10-11

|
vivals-CoIors % He worn-Costliness
81 Trying % Buy Elegance Cheaply.
Written for TIE Evssne B4Al
HE pretty capote Of the day u one
~ which declares the taste Of lady in every
fold and outline. It suits the head and
shapely features which wear it Let the
~ aquiline woman beware Of ssssying it.
however, unless she il willing that her most
prominent features should soar in par
rot-like relief Tho bonnet 10 better for her,
Is the trimming Is masssd outside the line Of
the crown and projects almost - much - the
tip Of the nose itself.
In choosing hat or bonnet for woman with
prominent features hold ruler straight against
the tip OF the nose and have the brim or trim
ming come at least as far forward. This trim
ming should be light-festhers, gauze or lace
with simple. effective knot of velvet loops, with
pleatings Of muslin de sole or thin crepe each
side. The feather border laid in tufts also sets
out from the head and makes it look smaller
For theater . charming piece has Greek pat
tern border Of velvet. shaped by wire and buck
ram. laid over crepe lisse futng, the bow Of
feather tufted snow" gauze and black velvet
ribbon with SNOW" aigrette being of that SIM
pie, inimitable elegance which enchants the
masculine mind and distracts the feminine
The set OF shoulders required in the velvet
| ribbed. light gray walking dress is unapproaeh-
| able except by frst-rate artist.
| The pelerine is designed to bring out the
| 'chunkiness of figure, being short wasted,
with tabs short aud rounded. the shoulder
pieces also giving breadth by their stingness
! To be graceful. and satisfy the eye such a gar
ment should give the full length Of the waist
and fall like stole below with rather broad
| square ends. and the shoulder or arm pieces
should come quito to the inner angle of tho
elbow before the trimming is added or else be
mere cap to the arm.
HOUSE AND WALKING DRESSES.
| One Of the best models for house dress is the
glossy black silk now worn. with front Of vel
vet striped and figured damask net. The shap-
ing of the corsage gives charming slender
| figure, delightfully."- the opposite to the deforni-
ity of the Spanish jacket. which widened the
waist. The sleeve will be better without the
bell cuff, which is really the only point to
criticise about this interesting toilet, admirable
| for an amateur concert dress. A caprice of the
/ mode ID q walking dress. half cloth, half vel
! vet, which, II the materials are both In the
| same shade. or in rare harmony, may pass with
taste. The trimming with Angora fringe il one
| OF the newest IDEAS and the drift of it across
the breast Is warm and protecting to the sensi-
tive line of the chest The little embroidered
jacket without sleeves is carried for possible
| change in the air Of these capricious autumn
days. But the veil, with the broad brimmed
hat, though u fashion of the hour, is anything
| but becoming or advisable 1t looks bunpline.
| and in the large lozenges of Russian net is
| coarse, bedizened. Only Q small hat or toaue
| should ever be worn with VEIL and it should
be wrapped in eastern fashion twice across the
! face, over brow and again over the cheeks.
| leaving the eyes uncovered, for wearing a veil
dulls and weakens them, not only by obscuring
vision and straining the optic nerve slightly
| but surely, but by the vapor Of the breath in
hailed over and over, which is bad for the wearer
and her eyes.
A long elegant garment serves az dress and
wrap in one for the street. to be worn over
! plain gown. In silk ribbed with velvet or in
| cloth with plush or astrakhan it is delightful
| thing, with or without the huge wings or cord
net or chenille net, which are supposed to add
| style to the pelisse.
| Furs and fans are carried together in luxu-
rious readiness for extremes in heated gal
lery or chilly street. And mark the coquet-
fish fastening Of the collar Of the cloak by
strap at the back Of the neck.
FIFTEENTH CENTURY REVEALS.
Many OF the winter styles are suggestions
from the fifteenth century dress. revived by
the Tudor exhibition, which was the delight Of
the London world last season. veritable state
dresses were unearthed from wardrobe rooms
and Golfers; gloves furnished and sewn with
pearls; corselets Of woven metal studded with
| carbuncle turquoise, garnet and seed pearls:
bodices stiff with embroidery in gold thread
and furred; moth-estsn msntes which had
stirred with the unrest Of the proudest, un-
easiest hearts 10 the world.
Not only the Maries and Elizabeths Of whom
history 10 full, sent their last fnery to the ex-
hibition, but those forgotten Msries, Annes
and isabeiias whose destiny was SO high and 90
unhappy In that they were hardly less account
living than they seem to be dead-women with
| out force, daring or worth enough to win what
was theirs by desire and right, who coveted.
envied, moped and left of themselves nothing
but their pedigree and their petticoats. Well,
these last we're often graceful enough to be
remembered and admired. But copied-the
royal wine sack in rabbits fur and the gold
| thread which has kept Its CLEAN for centuries
in the Dutch metal which will tarnish in six
weeks wear, and the turquoises in blue cellu-
ioid-defend Us from such afronts to taste.
| Low-PRICED ELEGANCE.
They flourish at the merchants openings.
where one may buy a oorselet embroidered by
machinery in ''purples" and nourishes of green
| gold, red, gold and yellow to delight the dressy
heart OF Anne Of Cloves, and very much in the
| fashion OF her day, for q price not beyond the
wages Of good school teacher.
| The cheap velvet sleeves, wrought in At
tempt to mimic Venetian richness from shout
der to waist hang on the show line above the
counters marked only Of. SO the pair. Oh, that
women would be laws unto themselves, for
then, and then only, should we sec noble and
enduring fashions, the sumptuous demanding
the finest, richest productions of the loom to
carry out its royal ideas; the middle class, in
the sweet gravity Of stuffs woven to last. en-
HANGED BY the handiwork Of the weavers, Of a
design worthy to last, and common folk in
clean, bright CHEEKY stuffs that would cleanse
year after year like new and be worth tho dol
lars put into them.
As it IL, You may 60 from counter to counter
and ind little worth the trouble Of making up.
Certainly 1t does not pay to give q months
salary Of an ordinary professional woman for
. simple dress to wait the pleasure Of q dress
maker for days and hours to have it reftted,
get it after two weeks waiting to have the bind
| ing altered and the seams taken in under the
arms, and then in six weeks wear have it turn
| rusty, with the verdict from those who should
know that cit won't pay to dye it, for the
threads are giving way already"
| That IL specimen Of what women buy for
stylish dresses. They pay for style, and moth
ing else. and style won't wear or keep its gloss
Women begin the matter Of dress reform at the
wrong end. II they were to demand better
fabrics, and model them in certain compro-
mise Of good taste, they would be gamers,
rather than to pay three prices for reform gar
ments when common ones are already dear.
Let Us look ct the Venetian bodice and the