New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-02
NEW BONNETS.
BEAUTIES IN THE SPANISH coLoRs.

Merchants in millinery goods have imported ior
spring and summer large "sombrero' hats and small
cspotes Of lace and grapes. Spanish styles rule the
new fashions This is shown in the lavish use made
Of black lace and black velvet ribbon in conjunction
with bold strong colors. The new torcador yellow,
the more delicate corn color and the tomato REQ
are shades which have been worn from time immemoria
by Spanish The drapery Of the mantilla IS
suggested in the arrangement of black lace over
high Spanish comb of Jet above the brim in some OF
the new bonnets and in the narrow dadem effects
Of the trimmings In others. The use OF natural tropca
butterflies and beetles In brilliant iridescent coors
for ornaments is a spanshAm fashion when mas
been adopted this season by French milliners'
The new capOtes or small bonnets are often pretty
little affairs of black lace with transparent crowns oil
lace party concealed by loops Of black veivet
ribbon or white Grape. Sometimes they are eft WIN
out trimming, for the bandeaux OF sou crushed
or other flowers borders OF pendant uaiis
| Of Jet completes them. small bonnet OF tOreaoor
yellow Grape is made with shrred crown OF Grape ana
| finished with a border of Jet and band OF yeio"
prmroses under the brrn, raising 1t in diadem effect
| a small knot of black Chantilly lace Is placed over
this brim and a black lace barb coming from the baeR
is arranged to form brides or strings An exquisite
little bonnet is of Jet, five successive rows OF small
pendant Jet balls forming the brim the transparent
| lace crown is partly covered by loop and knot OF
white crepe de Chine, and above the brim by cluster
| of white duchesse lace caught down by line gold
| ornament.
The use of small barb bit Of real lace is feat
of the bpnnets. Thus butterfly in old poln'
will ornament bonnet of black lace, or dark velvet OF
tiny knot of fine thread lace Will surmount the
trimming above the brm. An exquisite dress bonnet
from the house Of VirOt has soft brm of velvet In
the new rose-coor, formerly known as Bengal rose'
but called this season gaieul." The transparent
crown of the hat is composed Of black Chantly lace
stretched plainly across and the bonnet completed
by cluster Of close buds and In Isabella yellow
and crimson and long scarf of black coming from the
back, which is intended TO be wound around the
throat OF the wearer and pinned on the shoulder Win
rose or jeweled pin.
Large hats with broad brims that project over the
forehead, shading the eyes. are trimmed with veVe'
fans Of sash ribbons and clusters OF tips making them
| more suitable for city streets than the howergar'
nished hats Of last season Such hats in chip aud
Milan straw especially with the full soft beefeaters
crown Of velvet, will be with street costumes
| by young ladies'.
The prettest Of these hats of Neapoltan BRAID
| combined with Milan and in some instances, With
chip strand OF Neapolitan alternating with one or
two brads of the heavier This gives strong
durable hat which will not press out OF shape, ike
one Of solid Neapoltan braid. Black hats are the
| rule: only a few colored straws and other braidS
are shown. The preference Of refined customers Is
! for a daintily made hand-sewn hat of fine braid.
Some of the latest imported hats and turbans are
finished with fancy brims of fine Tuscan work. OF
!
Of a hat OF Neapolltan and Milan
A large black chip sombrero shaped hat has soft
crown of egg plant purple velvet and is trimmed with
cluster of yellow and finished with crown band
and sreamers the back Of pale corn colored ribbon
Such hat is intended for carriage wear, but there
are large-brmmed hats with full crowns Of rich
colored velvet trimmed with clusters of black tips
not more conspicuous chan the hats by English
women on the promenade, or by young ladies here a
few seasons ago.
Chief among trimmings imported for millinery
| purposes are black laces which are shown in barbs
and by the yard. in light Chantllly patterns Crepe
de Chine and other gauzes and velvets are imported
| in all the rich and delicate colOrs of the season.
Velvet ribbons in black and coors are chiefly in de
mand in the three widths known as Nos. = and IS.
| The two narrowast widths used for strings and
| the wider for loAs and knots Still wider velvet
! ribbons are shown, also, to be used in loops over
transparent crowns of lace. There many gauze
ribbons: also tartan ribbon in broad trimming widths
| for hats for young ladies and children.
There are few feathers displayed. though a cluster
Of small pumes liks hose the hats Of Spanish
crandees OF the last century ornaments most Of the
trimmed hats so far imported from Paris. The flower
merchants counters spread with natural clusters
of flowers and show almost every variety OF English
| wiIdfower. There exquisite clusters OF Beacons-
| field prmroses and Of Old-fashoned polyanthus
There are sprays Of delicate English harebels and
| w
flower of the Scottish moors there sprays Of for
| cet-nenOt wallnowers. wild hyacinths. pansies In
medley of violet shades. and delicate SPRAYS OF wild
| morning glories pink and white. great number o.
beautiful tropical butterflies mounted on spira
in flower clusters, so that they seem TO float oveI
the flower There are also moths, dragon flies and
other natural insects
The latest mportatiOns OF trimmed bonnets ant
hats show many new cOors and predomnance o
rich yellow shades. including melon"-a deep salmon
yellow the color Of the flesh OF ripened cantaloupe-
toreador yellow corn color, or the Freicl
BILE dor, and straw color. Olive and
moss-gre shades have not entirely dis
appeared but are combined with rose shades
| Tomato red as now shown differs little from the
poppv red Of last season. and is more becoming
color than the yellow scarlet first imported The vole
and eggplant purple shades certain to be popular
with refined buyers and many trimmings In these
coors have already been exhausted and reordered by
Wholesale dealers The beautiful Bengal rose" shade:
or caieulr cOlOrs are too trying TO be generally
popular. but will serve relief among Other
shades
There are number Of little bonnets composed
almost entirely OF vioets some other fine flowers
with small transparent Of lace, among trimmed
millinery.
Thanks are due to Aitken, Son & Co., and worthing
ton, Smith Co.