Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-14
COOKS ON COOKING.
Six Masters Discuss Fancy Dishes and
Give Their Favorite Recipes
Menus Presented at Our sumptuous Feasts
Insignificant Compared With Dinners
of the Roman Emperors.

copyright and all rights reserved by Godfrey
WilIiston ChristIne.l
To fancy cooking one of the lost arts9 Had the
ancients tnoweige OF any fancy dishes now IN
known to us, which were superior to any that
our most accomplished masters of the culinary
art are able to concoct at the present dayP
That this is not improbable cannot doubt,
when consider how much greater atimulus
to the invention Of and tempting dishes
was constantly afforded the chefs OF old by their
employers. There is no monarch millionaire
of our time who spends one tenth as much uron
the menu of his table throu ghout an entire year
as many OF the old Roman emperors
read that the Emperor vittelIius fire.
Quently lavished upon one OF his great
fessts sums that would amount to millions of
our American dollars. He had hundreds of
emissaries who were constantly travelling
through his dominions in search of novelties in
food or drink. He annually expended upon his
table the enormous SUM of 81, 0O0, 600, and would
soon have eaten up the resources of the entire
Roman empire If his gluttonous career had not
been prem aturely cut short. He often sat down
to 10, 900 different dishes at q single meal. His
bill of fare included ZOO different dishes of fish,
5 90 dishes of va ious kinds of fowl, and one
dish called from its enormnus dimensions, the
shield OF Minerva, and composed of
such costly ingredients the
the sounds of the fish called scarf and the spawn
OF the campEey brought from the Carpathian
sea.
In comparison with such a bill OF fare the
most elaborate menus prese pted at our most
sumptuous modern feasts must pale their inef-
fectual fire and sink into utter insigniicance.
Fifty dollars plate would now be thought q
large sum to be expended q dinner, but il
would not have provided the one huudredth part
of single dish that graced their entertainments
OF Nlttellius or Of such other sybaritic Roman
enperors as Nero Tiberius, Callgula, Heliogab-
olus and many others. American milIionaires
will have to pay their coo as great deal more
Qe nna n fa raid 70 do
before they can begin to approach within the
shadow OF the epicurean magnifcence Of the
monarchs of old.
In view OF these facts we must conclude that
fancy cooking is to a certain extent lost art.
That is, that many dishes that once delighted
palate OF emperors are wholly unknown to
US. and must ever remain so, though doubtless
many OF these culinary trumphs OF the past
acquired taste to modern epicures. Fortunately
we still possess sufficient knowledge to get up
very fair meal and have the skill to concoct
O. &c GIshes al Wh1ca NOT even VLiteius
his Roman nose. As an evidence Of this / ap-
pend some recipes to the concoction OF which I
have devoted much time and study and which
results.
ROASTED DUcKLrsgo SAUCE. cHAsTILLY sASsFoRD.
Peel six sour apples, cook them in little
water, pass them through sieve. Add two
ounces of scraped horseradish; let Il ge: cold.
When ready TO serve mix with double its volume
OF whipped cream, with q little sugar in it.
serve cold in sauce tureen. The above is a
most excellent sauce to serve with ducks and
geese.
TENDERLoIS OF BEEF HASH Ia sAss WARD.
Cut in pieces one-eighth OF an inch square
some colo oked tenderloin OF beef, about one
pound being the right quantity. Hash two
shaliots. Cut in pieces one-eighth Of an inch
square one ounce of raw ham, two ounces of
fresh mushroom, two ounces of boiled po.a-
toes. Fry the shsllots in hot butter, add the
ham, the mushrooms and potatoes. Fry to-
gether and then add two gills of brown sance,
salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Let the whole
fhpn ,ur nj in
with 1t. Let it get very hot without boiling.
Dish up. sprinkle little hashed parsley over it
and gar nish the plate with some toasted bread
cut In fanciful shapes.
RGo ES cocoTE,
For this there is needed a peculiar vessel
called cocots. Frying hot butter, one SPOON
full OF onions, two OF mashed mushrooms one of
trufhes, salt and pepper. Butter cocote. Add
the whole, Break two eggs in the cocote. Put