St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-08-18
FRENCH SUMNER GOWNS.
Toilettes Of the Season Growing in
SDlendor.
THE FASHIONABLE
HAT


New Combinations in Colors,--The v
Shaped Neck Greatly Increas-
ing in Favor.
PARIS Letter.
D. S THE season advances
G'h the toiletteS seem to be-
ESA EN come even more splen-
EAAAF "a did, for we are now In
the height of the gay
- season, and all the
4: !. !. ! !: = \ i
L1fhE;MV world has deserted the
hllWMM boulevards and taken
fkNiWd N\N refuge in the Swiss
ltkNVlNSN mountains or the water
Al.MiAEN3 ing places OF the sea-
w side resorts. SplendOr
oE7ITSN seems to have reached
!. |. !.
H. IfTNM its highest, although
eMj aMlW>A nothing new will be
N1f NfEWN evolved until the open
w | BNlWN ing of the fall season.
Al I'm NY BOnnets are day by
All 81 MAX. day growing more and
bUVM more diminutlve, and
MI | IN ~ the large hats seem to
I'll IEM4IY be expanding in proper
i ' wv ton. The low-crowned
III y bonnets, with lands of
NJ jet, pearl OF torquois,
= are in the height of the
fashion, and they are
trimmed with nothing but an aigrette
as light as air and soue delciously deli
cate tint Of rose, blue OF maize.
The fashionable hat is the pretty
looking GainSborough or Rembrandt,
the coQuettish Maintenon or the more
simple Greuze, all of them trimmed
with masses of feathers. flowers OF
Wreaths of chiffon gauze or ribbon.
Small, stringless toques are made en-
tirely of soft, curIed ostrich tips, the
effect being supremacy becoming and
elegant These toques are tabooed at
the seaside, as the dampness would
soon reduce them to limp and be-
draggled state. The open-work brims
of some OF the hats are run with narrow
velvet ribbon or chenille. Velvet gives
body to the frail straws. Several bows
OF ganZe ribbon are set directly in front
or come from the back of the crown.
Some of the tOqueS are Sc fiat and
ShapeleSS that they look as it they had
been severely sat upon, while the large
hats are bent, twisted and raised here
and there in the most bizarre, and often
unbecoming, fashion,.
~
In gowns there is but little change,
and fashion sanctions anything that
keeps within certain bounds. For even
ing the V-Shaped neck is rather increas-
ing than diminishing in favor, the V
back and front being so low that it al
most trenches on the waist line. Many
OF the gowns are provided with trans
parent sleeves of black. or deiicately
tinted chiffon, made in the prevailing
high style.
Gray and primrose isa somewhat novel
combination of color. charming gown
lately worn being of sea-gull gray ben
galine, with a ruching at the foot of
yellow silk and with high pulled sleeves
OF the same color. Old rose and gold is
another somewhat bizarre contrast, but
both the tints must be subdued and de-
void of glazing color. a dress worn by
a distinguished matron was of changed
bic taffeta in blue and gold. The plain
round skirt has two rows of two-inch
Chantilly insertion at the foot, and be-
meath showed the petticoat of gold
colOred satin; the bodice was trimmed
with diagonal inSertingS of lace over the
gold color. and the sleeves were of gold
satin, yelled with black lace. The
gown possessed undoubted chic, the
effect being artistic in the highest
degree.
A charming evening toilette was of a
pinkish lilac, over which was worn a
polonaise of a still paler tint strewn
with Roman violetS of dark rich pur-
pie, with leaves of shaded green.
Painters are revived to limited de-
gree. but should be worn by none but
women of slender figure. Fichus of
lace are sometimes crossed in front Sc
cured at the waist, and formed into
graceful dropping panniers on either
side, and descending in two long ends
at the back. Lace of all kinds is in high
favor these torrd days of midsummer,
and at the summer resorts it is worn
| over V-shaped or low Innings of silk,
the sleeves being also transparent lace.
| Lace f1ounceS around the foot of the
| skirt are again seen, being generally
| headed with narrow ruching of mar
row ribbon or bias silk. In fact, there
is decided tendency towards
skirts trimmed around the bottom
| some have tlounces of lace or chiffon
disposed in deep Vandykes, while in
others the skirt is left rather long and
| Topped about two fingers lengths from
| the bottom in curtain drapery, each
| loop being held in position by rOsetteS
of velvet or ribbon.
-
Ribbon trimming, either extending
around the skirt or disposed longitudiu-
! ally, forming panels or points, is as pop
| ular as ever. Gowns of Russian net are
| stiffened about the foot by running from
twelve to twenty rows of extremely
narrow velvet in and out of the mesheS,
the sleeves and bodice being similarly
treated. In some cases the velvet is
| cut at intervals and tied into tiny bows
with pendant ends. Organizes strewD
with flowers or striped in white or col
ors are much in vogue this season, the
| trimming consisting of quantity OF
white or black lace and gay ribbons.
White is the height of elegance, 8
beautiful effect being obtainedin gown
of some fleecy white material with q
wide sash of satin or MORE; the hat is
of white lace, gauZe OF tulle with q
| garniture of white roses or ostrich tips
! To be correct the shoes should be OF
white Suede and the stockings of white
| lace-Work silk. OF course such toilette
is only suitable for carriage or house
! toilette, and in the former case the para
| sol should be of embroidered mousse
line de sole or lace. These all-white
costumes arc not becoming to any blu,
young and pretty women, neither
Should they be adopted by one who mus
economic, for If the immaculate purity
is in the slightest degree dimmed. the
charm is lost and the effect completely
marred.
Perhaps next to white the varied
shades of mauve are most popular, al
though mauve is almost as trying a.
pure white. Next comes the wide range
of greens and blues, the latter, how
ever, being in the minority.
Black is never out of style, but it ha!
received a new lease of life this sum
mer, the lovely black grenadine beins