The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-07-27
MINISTER PHELPS
FAVORITE.
1t Is an Onion Tart Specially
Prepared by Herr Friedrich.
At the Minister'S Splendid Dinners 1t Is the
Piece de Resistance-A Poetic Trib-
ute in Praise Thereof.

lat seems that the favorite native Wand
E5 of the Hon. William Walter Phelps, our
~ Minister at Berlin, is an onion tart, the
saVory Wand which | told you about some
time ago. As l understand, the onion tart
is, properly, product of Southern Ger
many, and people elsewhere affect to dis
dain the delicacy-in fact, since Prussia's
ascendency, those dishes which other folk
have always regarded as essentially Ger
man have gradually passed out of favor,
writes Eugene Field to the Chicago News.
The onion is now comparatively seldom
met with, and he who fances that he can
get beefsteak and onions in Germany is
most sadly in error Outside of the hotels
there seems to be little beef consumed, and
whenever beef is served it is cooked
almost to the dryness of chip. Veal IS
the popular meat; you get it dished up
everywhere and in every style. Even ply
sicians commend veal as a suitable diet for
inyalids. But veal in Germany is not the
''born-and -killed-yesterday" article which
is served as veal in the States; it is fairly
mature meat that which we should call
veal is known as "calfS flesh" and it is
pretty generally laboOed. L have no idea
located. l suppose l might find out if l
were to buy guide book, but it has oc-
CURED to me that there could not be any
very extensive grazing grounds in Germany
for the reason that there are no fences here
nor any hedges. There are practi-
cally no cattle hereaboutS. Cows flesh
is considered abOminabe food, and there
are laws prohibiting Tor l should say
regulating) its sale. And l don't wonder
at it, for in Germany the COW Is used as
beast of burden hers is a hard life; she
does service at the plow and in harness. A
sorry-looking beast she is Butter, such as
it is, is costly luxury. The price of it
averages all the year round about 40 cents
In this we find an explanation Tor the
German theory that butter is not whole
some. The wholesome butter-whlch Is to
say the butter commonly served in Germany
averages ABOUT % cents pound, and it is
viler than the viest butterine. They color
it sort of orange-yellow, and flavor it with
something or other that appears to be
cross between the essence OF vanilla bean
and the
AROMA OF A CORDUROY COAT.
To return. however, to the subject OF Mr..
Phelps and his fayGrite German edible. 1t
seems that the chef employed IN MIR.
Phelps kitchen is native of Southern
Germany and, although lie was graduated
from one of tile Partisan cookery schools,
lie TeIdluS ShiII lOI
the composition of those dishes which
tickled his palate as lad. An onion tart
is Herr FredrIch's chef d'9uvre, and Mr..
Phelps is as proud of Herr Friedrich'S
onion tartS as Herr Friedrich himself is. at
every one OF those splendid dinners with
which Mr.. Phelps regaleS, delights and
astounds diplomatic and society circles at
Berlu, the onion tart figures cODsplcu-
ously-is, in short, the piece de resistance.
Having tasted of the Wand l am quail
fed to testify to its exceeding merits, but 1T
requires the facile eloquence of MI Phelps
himself TO set forth in fell exposition the
surprising qualities of the delicacy
For long time," said Mr. Phelps to
NE last week, 81 have been trying to in-
duce my friend, Whiteaw Reid, to run
over from Paris for week ) visit. He hes
itates about coming because he fears that
the object of his visit might be miscon-
strued."
"Are the Germans so chary. then, about
receiving visitors from France?" l asked.
That is not what mean" answered Mr.
Phelps. "Mr. Reid fears that if lie we're to
come to Berlin the folks at home might
suspect that lie and l were Matching up
conspiracy involving the political cam
paign at nome in 1892. But the truth SIM
ply is that what L want to get Mr.. Reid
here for is TO initiate him into the delights
of onion tart"
Upon Mr.. Phelps table in his private
room III the United States Legation at Ber-
vored few the following tribute to the en-
inent diplomate's fayOrite Wand:
THE POEM.
or tarts there be a thousand kinds
So versatile the art
And, as we ali have different minds.
Each has his favorite tart;
But those which most delight the rest
Methinks should suit me not;
The onion tart doth please me best
Ach, cot! mein lieber Gott
Where but in Deutschland can be found
This boon of which sing
VINO but a Teutun could compound
This sui neris thing?
None with the German frau can vie
In arts cuisine, wot,
Whose summum bonum breeds the sigh:
Zach, Colt! men iieber Gott!"
You slice the fruit upon the dough
And season to the taste,
Then In an oven (aot too Slow
The Wand should be placed;
And when It's done, uron plate
You serve 1t piping hot
Your n0strils and your eyes diate-
Ach, Colt! mein lieber Gottl
1t sweeps upon the sight and smell
In overw helming tide
And then the sense of taste, as we'll,
Betimes is gratified;
Three noble senses drowned in bliss,
prithee tell Inc what
Is there beside compares with this
Ach, Colt mein lieber Colt!
For if the fruit be proper young
And If the crust be good
How shall they melt upon the tongue
Into a sayOry flood.
How seek the Mecca down below
And linger round the spot,
Entailng weeNS and months of woe
Ach, Colt! mein lieber Gott.
If nature gives men appetites
For things that wont digest,
Why let them eat what delights,
And let her stand the rest
And though the sin involve the cost
OF Carlsbad. like as not,
IT'S better to have loved and lost
Ach, GOtt mein lieber Colt,
Beyond the vast the bilowy tide,
Where my cSnpatriuts dwell,
All kinds OF vfttuas have tried
All kinds of drinks. weIl
But nothing known tn Yankee art
Appears to reach the spot
Like this Teutonic onion tart
Ach, Gott mein lleber Gotti
SO. thou III quaf of Carlsbad's tide
AS full as l can hold,
And for complete re. orm inside
Plank down my horde of gold.
Remorse shall not consume my heart
Nor sorrow vex my lot.
For have eaten onion tart
Ach, Cot! mein lieber Gottl