Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-12-20

proper by . lofty arch. painted in fantastic
colors and upholding a clock: but II long since
went the way OF other unsabstantiai structures.
QUAINT OLD rHEArrn-
Tho quaint old theater which NOWADAYS
serves for . swell Italian opera house. was built
by another viceroy more than q hundred years
ago. Its alleged ''boxes." which are mere empty
stalls. all open upon n gallery in the open air
and to get into one Of them Won must climb
long fight of outside stairs leading to this airy
corridor. The splendid Pantheon cemetery.
Just outside Tie city limits was laid out 10y an
other yicerov. Abascal. in the year lsos It's
chapel contains a handsome altar. and there are
many costly monuments and well-kept flower
beds. The vaults are built mp in the walls. like
rows of ovens, tier above tier. each numbered
in order. Most Of them are rented for a stated
number OF years. payment, Of course. being in
advance: and il the lease il not renewed at the
end of the term the coffin, with whatever il
may yet contain, Is summarily evicted.
THE SPORT OF BULL BATTING.
Another viceroy laid out the beautiful Ala
media c'grove Of elms" or public psseo) and
also built the bull ring. The latter is well
worth q visit, though bull fights are now OF
comparatively rare occurrence. say half dozen
in course OF year. Ii is immense circular
inclosure Of ole rose-tiuted adobe surrounded
by seats rising tier above tier. with boxes
tered from an outer corridor. reached by fiGhts
OF stairs running up outside the circle. The
fashionable entertainment is what is known
bull batting" and always takes place on sun
days. The bull is not killed. ne in Spain. Mex
leo and some other countries. but is simply tor
mented for the sport OF the populace. Gener-
ally the young bloods Of society do the bait
ing" and il is looked upon M a very high
toned. athletic sort of pas.ime. something
like cricket matches in England polo at
NewnOrf Inn dart
with lace and ribbon rosettes and give
them to- their lovers 10 thrust into the hide
OF the bull. The great feas is 10 stick these
darts into the face or the foreshoul6er Of the
enraged animal, and in order 10 do SO the
thrower must stand in front OF his horns. No
horses are disemboweled in these performances
but It now and then happens that a gentle
maiden has the excitement of seeing her active
young lover go-ed to death. Many years ago
an attempt was made to suppress bull fighting
! altogether. bu. though the press VAS opposed
to II and many OF the best people. the ruling
passion was yet too strong in the minds of
the pop1lace. So il was determined 20 regu-
late the Sunday pastime by law and 10 coniine
IT to single building erected for that purpose.
The regulations aforesaid comprise several
chapters. and the official code is about twice as
long as the constitution Of the republic.
BEAUTIFUL LADIES OF LIMA.
As all the world knows the ladies of Lima are
proverbial for their beauty. Such large.
liquid, soulful eyes; such rosebud lips and
pearly teeth; such dainty hands and feet and
rounded arms and graceful figures il would be
hard to md so commonly anywhere else on
earth. A comparatively few Of the more ultra
fashionable wear modern hats and bounets for
state occasions but the vast majority still cover
their glossy black tresses with the lace mantilla
| or black manta Of silk or wooden. The latter is
the only correct thing for church wear among
young and CID rich and poor: and bonnet
would no more be allowed during service than
a gentleman AT the north would be expected TO
come to the communion altar with his hat on
his head But the mantas are no longer put on
! as formerly. so that only one eve of the wearer
is visible, but are disposed with more or less
coquettish effect. and are vastly more becoming
to the Castiiian type of beauty than the most
elaborate triumphs of French millinery. When
properly worn the manta makes meal-bag shapes
look fragile and bean-pole figures assume grace
| full contours. and not only DISCUSSES detective
features. lending to the most commonplace
face pictUresqueness akin TO beauty, but like
charity, il covers a multitude of sins in the
way of uncombed hair, rents. dirt and shabby
attire. Some Of the embroidered mantas of
black crepe are extremely beautiful and cost
from 800 to $500. the amount of silk embroid-
cry upon it indicating the wealth Of the wearer.
Ordinary mantas, such as the majority wear.
are simply large squares Of soft black cashmere
or nuns yelling and can be bought for from
Sl5 10 $50. A common article of dyed cotton
is imported from England at cost of s3 or "a
apiece, for the Indian and negro women.
CHURCHES AND MoSAsrERyEs.
Lima boasts Of no fewer than I26 Catholic
churches, besides a round dozen monasteries
and converts, all Of them established by repre-
sentatives of the Spanish crown. Outwardly
none of them are particularly striking. except
| for their CANDY colorinS and excessive pgliness
Perhaps the most imposing one. aside from the
great cathedral. is the church and adjacent
monastery of San Francisco. which was built in
| 1886 and Is said to have cost 5000 .091-more
than the Capitol at Washington. II covers a
large tract Of ground near the bank OF the
Rimae. Its gardens (of which We caught a
glimpse through the open door. petticoats of
course. not being ADMITTEDLY are lovely beyond
description. The whole interior is covered
with the most beautiful tiles-many acres of
| them-which have stood the test of three CEN
turtles and still surpass the best that modern
genius can produce. In this convent the monks
preserve the bed on which Saint Francis died.
his sandals, rosary, sackcloth robe and the
coffin in which his body carried To Rome.
Then there is the church of San Domingo.
remarkable chiefly because dedicated to Santa
Rosa-la Patrona de to,las las Americas-and a
marble statue representing her in reclining
attitude may be seen beside its high altar. The
tall graceful tower of this church il a con-
spicuous object in Lima. and its aisles are nota-
bly, wide and lofty. The churches of San Au-
gustin and La MERGED. both with monasteries
attached, are distinguished for their elaborate
facades, which are wonderful specimens of
what may be called stucco-fretworS. The most
fashionable sanctuary is that of San Pedro,
with its twin towers and red and green case
ments.
DAYS OF TIRE INQUIsIrloN.
1t was not long after the conquest before the
inquisitior was established in Peru--that
fearful engine Of Spain's despotic power. 1t is
| a mistake to suppose that it was altogether a
popish institution: for here it was essentially
Spsnish-at least in its worst form The stu
dent of history knows that while the Spariards
were using it as q cloak to cover the most hid
eous enornities popes were found expos:Ilat-
| ing against the atrocities they perpetrated.
| Thus while Torquemsde and AIaurique were
| burning their hundreds of heretics Sextns Nv
was ordering the former to cease their perse-
cutions OF several individuals and counreling
moderation. Pope Plus Nv interceded in favor
| of Carranza. the aged archbishop Of Toledo.
who had closed the eyes of Charles V, but wag
afterward accused Of holding Lutheran doc
trines. and Gregory VIII erected in Rome
monument in praise of the same p-elate. Ger
tainly the inquisition of Spain and Peru WAS
not SO much religious as a political institu-
ton. employed by rulers to render themselves
absolute. In theory the Indians were exempted
from its jurisdiction; but it is extremely doubt
full whether those prosecuted people always
4 Ill. 49,