Omaha daily bee., 1890-05-16
HOW TO ENJOY GIBRALTAR.
Treat with Scorn All Proffers From
Gmidcs and Donkey Rows.

The way to enjoy Glib Is certainly to
leave the faithful but too prosaic Murray
in your cabin, says the Pail Mall Ga
zctte When you land, treat with scorn
all proilers from guide and driver and
donkey boy Cross the drawbridge as III
to the manner born; pass the semi-tropic
garden that fills tho corner space to the
entrance TO tho town, noting as you
pass on the right the disuscd nook filed
with graves whore some of the heroes OF
Trafalgar sleep, brought there to die of
their wounds. Next ask the first soldier
the way to the ID. A. G.. s Office, where
pass is courtcously given admitting to
tho famous galleries. The summit is
now tabu TO all not employed on tho
new works in progress there, but tho
lower of the three tiers of galleries will
amply suffice us. This dates from tho
last century, and most of it was tunneled
out during the great four years siege
from 1889 to 1893.
A leisurely stroll upward to the Moor
ish castle takes us in right direction
for the entrance. We note the ascending
alleys are named ramps, for we are In a
fortress. One is lcttcred Fright.
Shoulders-Forward," quaint word Of
command of the days of powder and pig.
tail and the maneuVers of Dundas. We
reach an old-world guard-room, with a
large fig tree, lea1ess now, for the time
OF figs is not yet. Just within the Moor.
ish arch of the gateway we are arrested
by the trim artillery sentry, with his
Martini carbinc on his arm. a white.
gathered grenadier of Ligonier's wcro
more in keeping with the scene.
The corporal of the guard inspects our
pass and we write our names in book
and are then handed over to warrant
officer, u master gunner, who has the
keys of the gallery doors. We ascend
by covered way deep trench sunk in
the solid rock SO that our heads are we'll
below the surface-a surface liable to bo-
swept in time of siege with fragments Of
shell and whistling mitraille, now carr,
peted with verdure among the jutting
rocks. Here spring is already at work
with her flower show. Already tall
plants of some kind of allium are bcauti-
full with spikes of reddish-white blossom,
innocent of the scent of garlic, the badge
of most of the tribe.
A purple saffron with orange-colored
center, nestles in clusters in the hooks,
and a shrub of genista is bursting out in
golden bloom. We soon reach the mouth
of the gloomy gallery, closed by strong
palisaded door. The tunnel is ten feet
wide by twelve feet high, and ascends
gently. We pass here under water
drip, which increases to a shower bath
after rain, and we notice the grim,
black guns have wooden waterpro0fs to
protect them. Glorious are the views
that are given by successive cmbrasuros.
Far beneath, as a cardboard model lio
fort and casemate and the houses of tho
town, but beyond them the azure sea.
No model is suggested by that.
Anon we reach a battery whore cannon
point to Spain. Below we see the race
course, already green, though worn baro
with the tramp of marching men; for it
is the drill ground Of the garrison. Hero,
with their backs to the Mediterranean
sea, are rows of targets painted with
black figures, reduced by the distance
down to the size of dots. These are
being fired at by squads of other black
dots. Real live ones these, for tho
Kings Royal rifles are at musketry
practice. Faint comes the crack of the
Martins, and tiny are the puffs of blue
smoke. Beyond them stretches across
the isthmus the narrow gray mound Of \
sand, pierced at the center by the broad ;
white road that leads to Spain.
Wayfarers must keep to This, for on
that bank at intervals are nine sentry
boxes. Between them by night and
day, year in, year out, pace the British
sentinels that watch the neutral ground.
Neutral in tint also, IL level plain and
bare; for here neither grows grass, nor
tree, nor flower. We guess it to bo
about mile across to the Spanish lines
and the white walled houses of the littlo
town which arises on the further verge
of this little desert.