Daily Yellowstone journal., 1890-02-12
Wednesday. February L., 1854.
MYSTERIES OF FRENCH MEATS.
A Minneapolis Gentleman Talks Interest
ingly OF Phases of Life In Paris.

- ain thltltrh-
ingiy OF Phases Of Life In Paris.
81 had heard about the French
cooking" said Nh. Harwood. before
going abroad, but TO understand what
French cooking c you must have
q somewhat extended acquaintance
with il. The French people know To
a most wonderful degree the art Of
making something out of nothing,
Not that they DO not dine well and
have plenty TO eat, but a good French
cook will utilize many things that an
American or English cook would on
sign TO the Stops.
Horse meati All, there you touch
me on a tender spot. Ionce thought
that | would no more eat a piece of
horse flesh than | would dine from a
yellow dog, but | have learned since
that you may enjoy, all unknown To
yourself, the extreme pleasure of eat
ing both If you have long lived in
Paris. The question of the edibility of
horse flesh, cheval or Wand du cheyal.
as the French call it, has been settled
by them. aud the settlement of the
question provides that it should be
sold. Being sold. i must be eaten.
And 1t Is eaten 10 q great extent. The
law provides that all markets selling
horse meat must have a proper an
nouncement Of tie same prominently
displayed. The french are a versatile
as well as an ar lstic people, and they
have called the Greeks 10 aid them in
naming their horse meat stalls
bouchehc hyl ptique sounds much
more poetlcal Than horse meat market.
You a e. to the block and select
your horse steak or your horse roast or
your horse stew. / have never know
ingly eaten horse meat, but my knowl.
edge of the gentle guiles of your
charming French cook leads me To the
belief that | have not infrcquently par.
taken of it. When served openly as
other meats are it is darker and
coarser, and can at once be detected.
but when ii is given only such a touch
as a dainty French cook can giveit I'll
defy an epicure TO detect it."
You spoke about a yellow dog"
WELL" interjected Mr.. Harwood,
Ito be frank with you Imusl give you
a bit of advice. Don't ordera outlet in
Paris unless you watch ii in its curse
from the veal TO the platter. 1t isn't
safe. Yes, it is, | suppose. tm;s that a
large number of dogs are annually
slaughtered in Paris and are turned
into choice outlets. Just as many
outlets can be taken from a good sized
plump dog US from a well developed
calf. This isn't advertised. however.
Mind | do not say that all the restau.
rants and hotels in Paris serve dog
meat, but | do say that il is sold very
largely III the city, and that YOU arr
always liable 10 get a dose Of it, espe-
cially IN the cheaper class Of restau-
rants. And, strange as it may seem,
those who have eaten il say that It'll
by no means bad.
There is a well known restaurant
on the Rue de Renne where il became
known that the proprietor was selling
q large amount of horse meat. He did
not allow it to be named on the bills
OF fare, and when the authorities told
him he must put it on the bills if he
sold it, he rejoined; Sell i'll why,
course sell it; you don't suppose I'd
give you good beefsteak for the prices
on my bill, do your
when | first went to Paris" con-
tinued Mr.. HARDWOOD, IL thought you
couldn't fool me on meats. | found,
however. that 1 could be fooled on
beefsteak, and when an artist friend
Of mine came back one day from the
abbatoirs out at La Villet, Just outside
the city, and told Inc that with his
own eyes he lad seen them cutting
outlets from dogs, the leaf or fat parts
being sent down TO Brittany 10 make
up into the choice Brittany butter, |
said 10 myself then that | was prepar.
ed for anything.
Near these abattoirs or great
slaughtering houses are immense rem
deriug establishments. To them are
taken all the dogs, cats, rats, horses,
mules, cows aud what not-all the an
finals that die in the city, and none Of
which the most constituencies cook
Wbulu dlNtIilDl W TduHlIT W lIt ldDlts
This great mass Of defunct anlmalism
is taken 10 these rendering establish
ments, and here it is all dumped into
enormous caldrons or watts filled with
boiling water. IL there happens TO be
COW or a horse that is not diseased or
especially rank, the better parts are
cut out and sold for food. For the
most part. however, these caldrons
or watts are filed with a conglomerate
mass of all kinds Of decaying dead an
imals-anything that has grease in il
is welcomed. The bones and flesh go
10 the bottom, the grease rises TO The
top
what is done with iti'
Il notice that a good deal Of atten.
ton is being paid in Minneapolis To
food authorizations. | hope ] am not
trenching upon the ground occupied
by the gentlemen who attended to the
prosecution Of these frauds when L
tell you that the greater part Of the
grease that comes from these defunct
animals is drawn oil, sent down 10
Paris and there refined. 1t is refined
say once. and then IL may be used for
cooking purposes. IL may be put
through several course OF refinement,
and then II comes out into a cheaper
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