Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-12-14

Tduce OF RrOtesQufS humps anu nOCp.
she is wiser TO let 1t go unchslleng=d
still she hugs to her happy heart one OF
those beautiful silk lined tailor made
cloth dresses that has been fitted over
'rifurcutes, and in the joy of posses
SION ceties a naughty mans criticism {.
The agonies and failures of dressmakars
has taught her to value the work of an
artist IN skirt-5nildlng. She has learned
what others must, that an amateur
can only expect to be successful with the
utmost attention TO some good model +,
whether 1t be the foundation skirt, over
which draperies are to be skiilfully
arranged, or whether 1t be the gored
skirt, the latest production OF the fertile
genius of the great French artist, with
whom niceties of seam and curves OF
cores are matters of great moment.
This skirt does away with the fullness at
the top of the back breadths, yet having
them broad at the foot SO they spread
out roundly. II is accomplished by a
sloDed seam in the middle OF the back.
, Take, for instance, two breadths of
faced cloth, ifIy-four inches wide.
& These are left their full width at the fopt
and are sloped to less than half their
( width at thu top of ibe seam which joins
them, their front edges being straight
selvages. The rest OF the skirt is two
/ straight half breadths OF the cloth sepa-
rated down the front aud on each side by
! panels of cloth of the same or contrast
ing color, each panel being about two
inches wide. The top of the back
( breadths are laid in piaits in the middle
next the belt, while the fronts are gath
I cred aud carried very far back.
/ Fer street wear nothing Is more Dopu-
lar than camel's hair cloth, which is
frequently made up in the drapsd prin-
cess form. The LETT sds of front dra-
perry and front of bodice IS trimmed with
( gimp ornaments. A cloth rediugote.
worn over velvet skirt, with vest OF
velvet and wide collar of fur, is one of
the latest fashions. Various combina-
tions are noted of quito contrasting col
ors. as black with gray. DARK red and
dark green suits for young women are
prettilv trimmed with black astrakhau,
while gray cloth suits have collar, cuffs
and sleeves OF dark green or dark blue
velvet. Plum colored cloth looks rich
est trimmed with black fur. 1t is also
seen combined with shades of suede.
with these cloth gowns toques of clotn
are chosen, or of fur if much fur is used
on dress. A new shade OF light green
cloth with tinge of gray is found in the
imported costumes trimmed with black
beaver. Deep LOUIS QuiuZe vests of fur,
with high cuffs and q broad band on the
hem, are warm looking trimmings OF
cloth suits. These are cut i'll polonaise
shape, the back resembling, as far as
possible, mans coat. a new feature
is 8 panel of fur, which makes ones
cloth coat quite costly garment.
The great difference just now to be OBJ
aprvAi hn Enulisb and
styles, IS the plain and draped skirt.
The London leaders etiIl cling to tailor
made gowns and skirts OF great severity,
with no drsperiss, while the Paris DANES
are tired of SO much simplicity in skirts,
aud are adding paniers and slight drap-
cries.
A very charming dress is made of gray
cloth, trimmed with braidlng of steel.
The trimming OF the skirt is made of
light silk and the skirt of cloth, opening
on each side over panel of velvet,
trimmed with three rows of braid. The
front forms large double pleat and be-
hind falls i'll straight pleats. The cor
sage is OF the pointed cut, terminated by
a braiding. The back and sides of the
back, sides of the front and fronts with
paits, closing at che centre. A band OF
velvet, framed i'll ornamental braid,
which outlines the top of the big fIouted
cOTselet. A third row of trimmings Is
placed on the upper portion of the fronts.
The collar is high and sleeves of velvet.
4 boa of black feathers. A hat of black |
felt, trimmed with black feathers.
Another garment that has met with ,
most violent opposition is the long jacket /
W ich is really the outcome OF the sans |
tournure fashion, which now prevails just
ns and iDRapH
There Is not doubt but that the small, /
FORTHCOMING jacket was not well suited !
10 the development OF the sans dress i'm
proven era. 1t looked sweetly pretty
over the more rounded and artificial
figure which prevailed in Paris two years
ago, in London one year after that date,
hut when il came TO lay over the more
purtanical, or what Is termed the skirt
collante. Ii certainly looked paltry, ana
for some reason or another seemed to
shrink into noihingness. Thus it came
about that the long jacket became
necessity, and when il Is OF neutral tints
and worn with any color where the con-
trGst is not conspicuous il is both pretty
and becoming. These instructions will
prevent wearing black jacket with
blue skirt or gray one with light
colOred one.
The best material! Tor these long
jackets emphatically is cloth. A. very
pretty one has been designed of navy
blue cloth, entirely embroidered with
black pnsse menterie and closed with
single rev of buttons. The fronts are
open in heart shupe until over the chest
with the lapels also embroidered. The
opening of the lapels is trimmed with
front of black astrakhan.
Another one formed part OF a costume
of light gray Thlbet wool. The body is
formed with u basque embroidered all
All the seams of the back are
run over with piping of steel placed
only to above the waist and falling into
tassel at each extremity.
The near ep oroach OF Christmas sug-
gests that not in street costumes alone
are the readers of this column interested.
There is hint of masquerades, and it
may be fancy dress parties. These lat
ter are by Ear the most attractive aud
better adapted to the comparatively
small companies that gather in private
dressing room. Descriptions of two very
pretty ones:
A magpie dress would consist of a
short skirt of white satin, the back
formed of black tulle, black and white |