New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-09-14
A GLIMPSE OF VESUVIUS.
WITH SOME VIEWS OF NAPLES BY TIE WAY

] than Naples: and In none " the difference Ut
| tween the medieval and the modern spirit moFc
| marked, because n single generation nero hns oe'"
| the change from the dominance or one 10 WA. w
the other The repeated vlsltatons OF the chor,'
| which the city has experienced would nun,
century ago have called forth no further re'e"''.
measures thnn an increase of church services anu
of tnw,lry professions hearing about the relics VI
the saints But the administrators of the Gov
! ernnent since the Liberation have set themselves
| earnestly about the discovery OF more terrestrial
| causrs of the evil and about their rcmoVn.
| Narrow and sunless st1cets, Imperfect drai""se'
the crowdng together of the poor nsuflicicnt sup
| plies of water and inefficient police are TIC
| causes now rnumc rated for the plague. Against
| those tbc Government has been waging earnest
| warfare Abundance Of good water has been pro-
| vided, the drainage has been made good, ana
police organized which seems the equal OF any !"
| Europe But all these improvements are ouI
| little compared with the huge undertaking OF
opening streets through the crowded quarters an"
| of building up n new suburb for the poor. Inc
work is to cost twenty millions of dollars.
| drove through the new district, and noticed thai
| the houses were plain but comfortable. and that
| the poor were hocking there without the help OF
any legislative coercion. As so many Italians
| are now going to America from this region, these
| improvements have great interest to u.s.
Those who are not informed on all that taxes
place in the scientific world may not be aware
that within eighteen years Naples has become inc
m,st important place in the world Tor tfc STUDY
of marine life. The institution here owes It's cs-
tablshmcnt to DR.. Dohrn, German naturalist
who now prcsdcs it with corps OF seven
professors and twenty assistants lhcy POSSESS
steam yacht and number Of light-sailins YES
sells that arc employed in dredging the McolFI-
,nI
vc,tigations here, and the institution receives
appropriations from most Of the Governments Oh
Europe, and from some Of the larger universities,
particularly in England. went TO Src the
octopus or dcvIl-iish fed. and was forcihly re-
minded Of Ifugo's description of this terrible
animal in his "Toicrs Of the Sea.
IL is plain 10 anybohy who walks the street
that Mr. Bcrgh's influence has not extended TO
Naples / had often wondered in Ncw-lo
where all the lame sick, blind, raw-honed, br"keh-
windcd. spring-hacd and INDECENT horses went t..
have solved the problem now. for they are all
here Still. what is lacking in horaiicsh is made
ND by the g"rcs Of brass-inOunted harness.
One sees tic most wonderful arrangements on the
saddlrs->o'nc are like models Of Tn" Tower 81
London, others like the equestrian statue OF
King Victor Emmanuel: while Others have b"th
tower and statue the horNrman being mounted on
one Of the turrris II the castle, aud hearing
brass banner larrr the castle under him
soon after our arrival We started for Ncsnvius.
We st ont early in the morning with two Of fhcH'
highly decorated hors., for fonr hours nj"
tl,roligh the suburbs of Naples. the towns Of y.
iIovanni and IL PortIcI, which are but contnua-
tons Of thc city. and through the vineyards al TIA"
foot of Tie mountain I" "a" Railway winch mounts
To the cone. The time WAS most favorable for
observing the common people. The streets re-
Sounded with tie FRIES Of vendors and Of wa-0nrr>
STRIVING - make their way through the busy
crowd counted once fifteen men RIDING IN
ore horse cart and fourteen several times. There
were seats provided tor Twelve. Every few NM
utrs we net rror"r>' stands. wth all kinds Of
vegetables most si"wly arranged. moving steadily
along through tho tlrong. We discovered that
each had IL horse under 1t. His head appears but
his legs nc hidden by hanging baskets. A man
ON either SIDE and ~ tie tail keep him from
tipping over Thew are watcrmrlons and pot.'f"',
the uppc. part ~ hIs load baskets Of tomatoes.
red and yellow. arranged along both sides; celery
is displayed behind figs and grapes on his neck
and sirln.s of onions and small carrots daIsl'
tTlnsrs all ar,ind. Y, III -ht be- sIpp,%e th>
wa, IA Wholesale establishment. ari the retailers
with loads tl"!. Leads g.: "n trays lowered
around 10 tap the sirrl Of custom flowing m"
IT, Us alIrrI.r s!..utln-. ur rs fearful appca -
MS Icfl - an uN'N!l1G N'il- hl N'I!N cH'"uHtI'
which somewhat dalIi. excerpt for the lou'i
report, of thr wd.prr:s WHIPS. that SEEMED {"
compl a sort 81 rlil Inn IN II or courN =
obliged - walk oar hoi>.> through II fur more
than an h"ur. ari i"!nd ih,f It had a pleasing ami
Amusing i, We'll ~ !t!ti,tt. SUE. At ANY rate. th'
shady parts were h"ihlu- rp'Hparrd 10 the neat
put.atorlal STAG whirh Las before H..
In ). Gloynnni We bad to run the sannflc'
lao nf lll hc ltIt hrip
which liz IN wat there. They l~-an with pli""u,
whinrs That SION advanced to loud drinans
called to our driver 10 - ON faster. which had
the effect Of bringing hilu {" walk. and con
vInccd me that l' rs,rici their demand, upon
rs "a, lllst resolved the spot 10 give him
two francs foe instead of the three that had
intended. Finding timt must endure the AZ.
tack Of the hungry pack. put on nm impLlcahlc
mrn and waited have always fr! an ohIc"
ton 10 having club-fcrt or lcprous arms held zap
IN the Immediate sphere of my vision. or Ia hay.
ing cycrls without cyrmll, drawn open for
me- 1licn aIr other objects in nature which
are more pleasing to me. Still one must take
Nature in whatever raprirous mood he find, her
We escaped al last. and considered ourselves pre-
pared for any horrid wihlEcss or drsolation that
Ncsuvius might have in store fox After pass
Ing Poriiri We turned on the main road, which
leads 10 the buried cities Of Hrrrnlancum ana
Purnpcii, and found ourselves Immediately in the
vine country These slopes Of lava s" are very
favorable for rawgrowng, and the fruit L.
sweet and highly favored. young man walked
by our carriage for the neat hour, gathering for
| us ripe figs. gripcs mulbcrrics. hackhcrles, and
the still unrp ncrslrrry and pomcgranair. II"
was one of those child-llkr. lazy unthinling. half
man and hall-fann which one meets here
oftcn-hnndsornc, winning and thriftlrss. lie was
very skilful in collecting the different sorts of
volcanic stones, now pretty piece OF yellow or
brown tufi or lava filled with white cry stalls.
u black with brilliant mica and heavy rs
iron. and then piece Of that calcarcons tnfa
chilled the marhlc uI NcSuYiIs which the lowell