Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-06-28

mixed with good deal OF rice. various seeds
and vegetables. prominent among which are
onions all made hotter than so many spoonfuls
OF live Goals by means OF red peppers and ali.
IL Is the national dish of Bolivia. among sll
classes. high and low. and thousands of families
suosist entirely upon il. OF course the chupe
varies from bad 70 worse according to what the
cook Is able to put into il. but is really mot
nan bad as the English say, when one gets
used 70 it.
Sometimes another dish is added to the
menu. ont. as rule. IL YOU are so unreasonable
as TO initiate Oliver Twist in calling for more,
you must supply it from your own stores.
LUXURIOUS QUARTERS.
Now and then one finds tambo which boasts
the rare luxury Gin these parts) Of wooden
noors, but generally mother earth serves that
purpose. Each room is furnished with dirt
coated deal table, bench or two, and perhaps
chair may be had for the asking Mos; of
'hem contain the barest outlines OF "A bejstead.
made of poles dashed together and corded
up with rawhide thongs But these are such
denominations In the way of rolling toward the
Ihiddle, and of being infested with every
species OF bugs known to beds, that the ex-
perlenced traveller prefers the floor, with moth
ing worse than feas Cor company
1t Is generally long after dark before one
mas reached his tambo and thrown himself
down, thoroughly exhausted, while the
moZo ana muletcer attend TO the animals
ana bring inside the luggage. saddles and
an BY and by an Indian slouches in rag
ged and dirty beyond degree: or a bare
legged boy who has apparently all his life
entertained the aversion of a mad dog for
water-who proceeds to haul out the dirty
table and to spread upon il. without a cloth
between, whatever may have been prepared
IN the line OF food. The big bowl of chupe
Is sure 10 be steaming hot, not 70
mention its ali: and il any other dish is fur
nlshed, 1t is served as separate course. with
all the ceremony of presidential banquet.
conee coming in after the rest is removed.
Bread you must bring or go without; butter
Is not to be thought of, and il will be well il
your hamper contains a few such Injuries, by
the way OF change. as canned beef. deviled
ham and dulcies. Throughout the valley of the
lungas boiled bananas are extensively used in
place of bread and make palatable and nour-
ishing substitute.
Soon as the meal is concluded nothing is to
be thought OF but needed rest The ladies re-
tire to their apartment. the gentlemen to
theirs: the arriero and mozo Law themselves
down on guard outside the door; the mules are
tethered not many Yards away (they probably
occupy an adjoining apartment, precisely like
your own, barring the beds and tables. and
everybody sleeps the dreamless sleep Of the
weary until aroused next morning by the
watchful arriero at the first glimmer Of dawn
ing.
THE MORNING.
Then ones troubles begin afresh. For ex-
ample, such an article as a wash bowl is an UNI
known quantity on the road to Yungas. After
raising sufficient riot in Spanish. English and
Indian, wooden bowl may be brought, hold
ing gallon OF moro of water. in which all the
guests of the inn are expected to lave in turn,
gallantry giving the first chance to the ladies'
Soap and towels one must provide for himself
or go without.
About the time you are in the most embar-
RAISING part of your toilet the ragged Indian
or unwashedurchin of the night before comes
IN without the preliminary of knocking and
calmly proceeds to spread the festive board
with desaguno, or the early breakfast of the
country, which consists of nothing on earth
but bitter coffee without milk, unless you
choose to add to it a BUTTERFLIES lump OF your
own bread. This you swallow shiveringly in the
pale morning twilight of the mountains; and
having paid as much for the entertainment as
Tor the same length of time in New York
hotel, the mules are brought up, and again you
sally forth, thanking heaven for having pre-
served you thus far, but feeling extremely
doubtful as to the future. Almuerzo. or Sec
ond breakfast consisting also OF chupe and
coffee. is sure to be found somewhere along
the road between 10 and 2 o'clock. and by that
time your appetite is ''sharp set enough to
enjoy it.
A portion of the highway to Yungas' capital
Is a mere foot path running through the coffee
groves of private plantations. and between
orange and lime trees crowded 50 closely
together as to rake off our hats with their
branches and render imminent the fate of
Absalom. The lower hillsides are mostly
laid out in terraced slopes for the cultiva-
ton Of cocoa, the great industry of the
valley. Except in two or three villages
there are few habitations in all this
distance but those of Indians-these latter are
generally of ARREST structure, being poles stuck
into the ground, matched with grass and
walled with giant fern leaves closely inter-
Unr s.Whnra ,aln M
only man is vile" might well be sung of Yum
gas.
PURSUED AND CAPTURED.
There are many grottoes or miniature cav
erns by the wayside, formed by springs or
waterfalls forcing their way through heaped-up
boulders, where every inch of rock is thickly
covered with the most beautiful MOSES and
delicate maiden-hair ferns, overhung by gigan-
tic fronds and brilliant flowers. Passing one of
these We saw inside number of half-naked In
dian women washing their clothes in the clear
cascade, while their lazy lords sat by circuat-
ing sundry jugs and bottles among themselves.
Ii happened at the moment that the doctor
and / were tagging in the rear, and as we
rode by the customary 'Buenos dias" good
day. on our part and Ma Ma" on theirs
were exchanged-the latter word not mean
ing mother. as might be inferred, but in
Quichua language a token of greeting and
respect To our surprise up sprang
three of the Indians calling on US to stop,
and who, in spite of all our efforts at
speed, kept almost within reach of US. Up hill
and down we went a mile or more, until. in a
particularly bad piece OF road where the narrow
trail had not only the usual precipice on one
side and wall of rock on the other, but turned
an abrupt curve that hid us from sight of our
companions. We were stopped short by the
hand of an Indian grasping the bride of each
mule.
Naturally we imagined them to be part of
the robber gang, but while the doctor fumbled
in his saddle bags for pistol, which wasn't
there, the third Indian, with the lowest
of salaams, held up a bottle and tiny
glass and humbly insisted on drinking
healths with US. To resist their drunken
caprice would have been folly, so We both
put the dirty glass to our lips with due cere-
mony and ''Salud" (to your healthy, of course
without tasting the beverage. whatever it may
have been. and then, whipping up our weary
nags, we tossed some small coin to the con-
vivlal Quichuas, and left them happy by tn 10
wayside. FANNIE b. WARD.
The Collegiate Education.