Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-04-24
Anne Boleyn and Nell Gwynne
Step Down from Picture
Frames.
vodos Of Different Eras Prevail, but do
not Clash-Plain Descriptions
of Simple Costumes.
o,.or7otioBs on Dinner Etiquette, by George
". Child, o: Far Famed Hospitality
Fashion Notes-Recipes.

l.. harvest time for the dressmaker, as
..re,r's dresses must be entirely re-
-,oda If the wearer has any ambition to
~, +ha fashion and does not intend to
- ant of the world The careful OBJ
.o-rer Of changes has not failed TO notice
.,o+ +bs radical ones are in simplicity Of
,,.f-t and elaboratenPss OF sleeves. The
latter change is doubtless owing to
THAT seems TO be fixed IDEA
thai in woman's costuming there
must be pTotuberances somewhere,
sn5 now That the short waists,
ride belts and short skirts of a century
SINCE have been reproduced, it might. be
reasonably expected that the sleeve
cusrfou Of that period would be in
-aru+. These cushions were fitted to the
arm on the inner side, the outer enough
larger 10 admit of stuffing, usually
swan 's-down was preferred; sometimes
the form was preserved by buckram,
and a belle of that era has said that it
was no unusual thing to hear the
cracking and breaking of this stiff mate
rial when in crowded Assem- blages.
There is also a fad for the Tudor gown,
and for its companion, the Stuart cos
tune So marked is this, that at
fashionable dinner party il
would be easy TO imagine ones
old ancestresses, provided one had any
who wore bTocade, had stepped out Of
their frames and were having q jolly
round in the court of Henry VIII. or his
not less gay successor Charles II. Many
Of the late limitations have stiff bodices
with trains cOuverging into a point be-
low the waist, and brOCade skirts
gathered in great puffs on the hips
thence falling straight TO the ground,
and one familiar with the, portraits by
Van Dyke readily peTceives. where mod
ern mOdlstes draw their inspiration.
The empire is by no means passee,
ladies of tall, slight figure know that
they never look so well as
when in their evenings at home
they put on the simple straight
robe which so clearly define the 1.-the
form they cover.
The use of dTapery'i Is not restricted,
and it is used freely in the adornment of
bodices In favorite design much
copied, il is carried across in folds from
the right shoulder 70 the left hip; the
left side OF the bodice is then made plain
an6 tight-fitting, and usually of differ
ent material from the right. This leaves
V-shaped opening at the neck, while
the sleeves are high and full, reaching
below the elbow and usually of some
thin stuff edged with gold.
1t is rare TO see a gown of one ma
teriGl; the mOdistes this season intro
duce different colors and fabrics into one
gown. OF course q harmony is pre-
served sometimes by contrasts, that like
the accidental in music develop it more
fully. A pretty pattern is OF gray can
vas and soft gray silk, while another
has narrow white silk-edge
running the full length of the
material, which is dark blue canvas.
The white silk is to De used as a natural
finish 10 the straight drapery.
To return to sleeves, one Of the latest
Out Is what a dressmaker termed the
Fpoon-bill sleeves, which come quite over
the back Of the hand in the shape of a
blunt spoon. The sleeve itself is plain
and tight-itting, with the exception of
high puffs on the shoulders. It can be
finished of according to taste, with a
Tuttle Of delicate lace at the wrist, but
Tor the most part il is left unadorned.
Another is tight-htting, and is buttoned,
OF has the Semblance of being buttoned,
The whole way up the outer line
- OF the arm 10 the shoulder. This
will probably be largely worn; q great
many sleeves are already made but
Toned TO the elbow on the outer side.
Another variety is closed at the wrist
with tight band, which can either be
PLAIN OF embroidered. Puffs at the ell
BOWS are not much worn except for the |
sleeves Of evening gowns which termIn-
ale immediately below the elbow; when |
tney are continued to the wrist. the eff
iect OF the pulled elbows is to give some
what of an appearance of swollen joints |
TO the wearer.
The newest sleeve, and one that is pc
cuIarly favorable to those having long |
thln arms, is the Fridolln. This sleeve |
Is cut ali IN one piece, very full at the |
top' and pleated to have quite full eff |
ieet on the shoulder aud Immediately |
below, IN contrast to the extreme close |
u'sS oil the remaining three-quarters of |
lis length, which necessitates a long row |
arm
WIN the round French waists that are |
without darts or side bodies. and sbirred |
a me neck and waist line front |
anI t2ck, the full leg o. mutton /
styles. PF'
lie sun passing through the summer
s so'S''ee calls Tor the parasol, and the
.ai ely Is Infinite. fashionable girl |
wi, ""' carry one matching her costume, |
II'i's' sAe Is one who likes the DEVILS |
S S"u '"iorS and will appear in black |
~ T,VSe WIN red hat, parasol and gloves.
a raIasoi handles are haudsomer than |
.eI-one Of carved mother-of-pearl is
N4ulsl'e IN design; also handles of re-
lous>e silver. A succession of large |
ms surmounted by ducai coronet, is
nc" design, and VIII appeal TO all the
IeuiT I'canS who run after their titled
,tU-liSh brothers. 1t is fortunate that
Use handles can be readjusted to any
r ra."Sol, as they are expensive items in
eI'au toilet. But q word for the
fI ~ %Sols which they adorn.
,,.os pam silk ones are disguised under
ines S-les ana Tuchiugs of lace, and some OF
- So are deliberately embroidered with
r,o e's' aud tluttering ribbons float tri-
80 .uahiiy from the top, as they seem to
,Aey nave reached the highest point
/ ~ '4eiT greatness, and they certainly !
- rs this is the ne plus ultra of
,, olISh costume, and they may well be
5.O1d 10 noat over the head of the fair
N1ihsel w2o owns them