Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-12-18

those beautiful silk lined tailor made
cloth dresses that has been fitted over
| 'tiiurcates, and in the JOY of possess
sion deiies naughty mans criticism i.
| The agonies and failures of dTessmakers
| has taught her TO value the work of an
| artist in skirt-Guildng. She has learned
what others must, that an amateur
| can only expect to be successful with the
| utmost attention 10 some good model {,
! whether it be the foundation skirt, over
| which draperies are to be skiitully
arranged, or whether il be the gOred
skirt, the latest production of the fertile
I genius of the great French artist, with
| whom niceties of seam and curves of
/ cores are matters of great moment.
! This skirt does away with the fu!luess at
! the top of the back breadths, yet having
I them broad at the foot so they spread
| ont roundly. 1t is accomplished by q
! sloped seam in the middle of the back.
/ Take, for Instance, two breadths of
| faced cloth, fifty four inches wide.
! These are left their full width at the fo"t
and are sioped to less than half their
width at tn top of the seam which joins
them, their front edges being straight
selrages. The rest of the skirt is two
straight half bread;hs Of the cloth sepa-
panels OF cloth of the same or contrast
ing color, each panel being ubout two
inches wide. The top OF the back
breadths are laid in plaits in the middle
next the belt, while the fronts are gath
cred and carried very far back.
For street wear nothing is more popu-
lar than cemel's hair cloth, which is
frequently made up in the draped prip-
cess form. The LEFT side of front dra-
perry and front of bodice IS trimmed with
gimp ornaments. A cloth rediugOte.
worn over velvet skirt, with vest of
velvet and wide collar of fur, is one OF
the latest fashions. Various combiua-
lions are noted OF quite contrasting COL
ors. as black with gray. Dark red and
dark green suits for young women are
prettily trimmed with black ustrakhan,
while gray cloth suits have collar, cuffs
and sleeves OF dark green OF dark blue
velvet. Plum colored cloth looks rich
est trimmed with black fur. 1t is also
seen combined with shades of suede.
with these cloth gowns tOques of cloth
are chosen, or of fur if much fur is used
on dress. A new shade of light green
cloth with tiuge of gray is found in the
imported costumes trimmed with black
beaver. Deep LOUIS Qninze vests of fur,
with high cuffs and broad band OH the
hem, are warm King trimmings of
cloth suits. These are cut In pplonaise
shape, the back resembling, as far as
possible, n mans coat. A new feature
is u panel of fur, which makes ones
cloth coat quite q costly garment.
The great difference just now to be oh
served between English and French
styles, IS the plain and draped skirt
70 ,,il
made gowns and skirts of great severity,
with no draperies, while the Paris danes
are tired of so much simplicity in skirts,
and are adding paniers aud slight drap-
cries.
A very charming dress Is made OF gray
cloth, trimmed with IL braidIng of steel.
The trimming OF the skirt Is made OF
light silk and the skirt of cloth, opening
on each side over panel of velvet,
trimmed with three rows of braid. The
front forms large double peat aud be-
hind falls i'll straight pleats. The cor
sage is of the pointed cut, terminated by
braiiing. The back and sides of the
back, sides of the front and fronts with
plaits, closing at she centre. A band of
velvet, framed i'll ornamental braid
which outlines the top Of the big frouted
corselet. A third row OF trimmings is
placed on the upper portion Of the fronts.
Tine collar is high and sleeves of velvet.
A boa of black feathers. A hat of black
felt, trimmed with black feathers.
Another garment that has met with
most violent opposition is the long jacket
which is really the outcome of the sans
tournure fashion, which now prevails just |
rs much as, and indeed more than, ever.
There Is not q doubt but that the small, |
FORTHCOMING jacket was not well SUITED |
TO the development OF the sans dress i'm |
proven era. 1t looked sweetly pretty |
over the more rounded and artificial |
figure which prevailed in Paris two years |
ago, in London one year after that date,
hut when it came 10 lay over the more |
Purifauical, or what is termed the skirt
collante, II certainly looked paltry, ana
for some reason or another seemed TO
shrink into uothinguess. Thus it came
about that the long jacket becnme a
necessity, and when i, Is of neutral tints
and worn with any color where the con-
trast is not conspicuous it is both pretty
and becoming. These instructions will
prevent wearing black jacket with a
blue skirt or n gray one with q light
colored one.
The best material for these long
jackets emphatically is cloth. A. very
pretty one has been designed OF navy
blue cloth, entirely embroidered with
black passe menterie and closed with
single row of buttons. The fronts are
open in heart shape until over the chest
with the lapels also embroidered. The
opening of the lapels is trimmed with
front Of black astrakhan.
Another one formed part of costume
OF liz ut gray Thlbet wool. The body is
formed with q basque embroidered all
round. All the seams of the back are
run over with piping of steel placed
only to above the wais: and falling into
tassel at each extremity.
The near ap oroach of Christmas sug-
rests that not in street costumes alone
are the readers of this column interested
There is a hint of masquerades. und 1t
may be fancy dress parties. These lat
ter are by far the most attractive aud
better adapted to the comparatively
small companies TINT gather in private
dressing room. Descriptions OF two very
pretty ones:
A Dagpie dress would consist of
short skirt of white satin. the back
formed of black tulle, black and white
bodice, hair powdered, maybe on the
shoulder and one in the hair. For Mrs.
On Nt.,-- II