Telegram-herald., 1890-11-26
QUAINT ANTWERP
A Visit 10 It's Cathedral on . Sum
msr Morning
BY 4 TELECRln.HERALD SCRIBE.
Crossing she knEiish ChaHnsl by aeoA-
nkht-A Weudsrfal Csrailos Of Sweet
Isnsa BSlls IN a sPire OF HAL
sslous Beauty.

y =
with bundles Of al shapes and axes.
/ Every "Pub" or bar roOm-snd they
are innumersble-ls doing an immense
/ business; men and women jOsle each
other going IN, and stagger together as
they pour OUT We, three ladies and
myself, are bundled into 3 four-wheel
shay" at Russel square, and with
| jarring and rafting over the stone pave
ment, that dislocates the liver and mud
I dies the brain, are driven 70 the Great
Eastern Railway Station at Liverpool
st. Down Greys Inn road, Clerkenweh
road and Goswell-st., Of Piekwickisn
fame, We tear, and then through al IN
| terminable labyrinth Of crooked narrow
streets, full of squalor, misery and
babies Finally when We begin TO think
| the driver is either lost or crazy we pull
up in Bishopsgate-st. beside the station.
! The driver calls out, Lively there with
the luggage" but this seems unneces-
sary, as 276 men and l57 boys make
simultaneous grab for our belongings.
/ manage 20 maintain my grip on one
piece, but the rest of it is whiskled away
before q remonstrance can be made,
and as soon as il is set down inside the
station half the crowd is around Us
| clamoring for reward for their ser
vices. A handful Of coppers quells the
incipient not, and We are soon locked
inside a compartment with five other
people all on their way to the CONT
nent. The train starts out brlskly, takes
! a slide downward and in a moment we
are IN inky darkness, diving under the
/ river Thames. Forty feet of water full
/ Of sea and river craft, flows over our
| heads, but nobody seems disturbed by
the situation, and probably but one or
| two are aware OF II. BY the time we
are above ground, out IN the country,
| it is dark all around, and about 9
o'clock We are at the pier in Harwlck,
| at the northwest end of the English
channel. Everybody rushes, and so do
we, but none seem TO know where we
are gong. The cold salt breeze from
| the North sea chIlls Us IN spite of heavy
wraps, although it is early in July.
Hoarse voices call out from somewhere,
This way for the Rotterdam boat"
"The vessel to the left Is the Antwerp
! boat"
Sairey Camp and her furious anti
| pathy to the "Ankworks package" is
brought TO mind by the last cry. We
| hurry on board the Empress, the finest
steamer on the channel, and descend to
! our state rooms with our luggage. The
staterooms are large and nicely fur
nlshed; but found that | was booked
| for a room with nine other occupants,
all Of them making extensive prepara-
tons tor sea sickness. The scene IS not
an inspiring one, IL fact, the prospect is
rather dismal, so | go up on deck.
The bald spot on the head of the moon
is Just showing above a thick bank of
clouds in the west, and soon the sea all
around is lighted up, the dancing waves
flashing and darkenlng like Pickering
flames. Here and there the vessels go
| plunging about like grim sea monsters,
each with red and green eye, seeming
| intent upon running each other down,
but, with a good deal of whisthng, we
manage 10 steer clear of the crowd and
head Tor the open sea. 1t IS too cold TO
enjoy moongazlng on deck. and ] re-
solve TO follow the example of the ladies,
who have taken to their berths. In the
| saloon a splendid lunch is being served,
and crowd of ladies and gentlemen
are fOrtifying themselves with eatsbles
| and every known variety OF drlnkables,
| from Highland whisky, tnat tsstes like
! liquid damnatiOn favored with creo-
sote, to innocent ginger ale. Some
| cold roast beef looks very tempting and
80 does a bottleof Bass ale, so take them
IN out of the damp, chilly air. ] asked
the waiter how much owed, and when
be informed me / tainted.
In the siate-roOm | found q long
geared gentleman IN the berth over my
own, very SICK. NV astonishment At
| the capacity of ms stomach and the IN
accuracy OF his ann kept me a silent
| spectator for tiye minutes, then taking
| advantage of 4 iull IN the silmentarv
shower, | dove into NV allotted shelf
/ and tired TO get some sleep. + ght OF
/ the gentlemen were snoring = symphony
/ in = minor, which two cOTpulent priests
at one end were endesvOring TO convert
| into fugue. Their deep bassos pro-
/ fundos we're a match for sll the rest.
That night vii always Re painful re-
| membrance. and the first gray stTeaks
of dawn found . majority OF the pas-
sengers on deck gazing at tie low fat
coast of the Netherlands. The broad
| sluggish and many mouthed river,
| Scheldt. opened bt fore US and o pilot
/ was taken on board.
OF al fat, stale and uninteresting
rivers on earth the Scheldt j. eniltled 81
first place. it j. Of immense CONNER
cal value. as ocean vessels sre able 60
ascend 10 as far as AntVerp. hut the
banks sTe an unendinx succession Of
dykes and marshes. Wlth here sud there
p louE-armed Windmill. and tie river
E itself seems vast confluence of ousC-
mres and ssndhsrs The river is fol
of sll manner of shipplug, from email
EsHuc suacks Wltn p bril- -
woo1cr saoo and sss tbat sdverf So
Beecnafn e Pills. go large letters, r. tne
great ocean steamers. Long - Tore e
lofty -pre ol fae Antwerp tafnelrfl
comes INTO view the u gEff F1Tce - fae
aTeat osraIgs one ri tae largest o.
TIE wo7la. comes fostng out ~ lsortr
the fields RI wsring gram. scr ss fe
uac1 bosom ~ TIE ~CaeI1t. tar E
t1s leaves Of tae Iomhsr1v polssrs
sd even TIE no8fIE haFrs Along fe
tsE "a seen g. str t. 51s dep f.hfa-
taon
At1o o'clock ~ lsrd a. tbe q sT
sd fn6 sepv iot rf men wesr E
hsh water rsrts sd psrzr cas- OK
ng uge Datca r-ss ard sfsrg se
craven images ~reTsl eorTe eTs =
srs natng for tks passenger - - IS