, 1890-05-29
|BREAKINGIDOLS
"a Sad Duty Of the Tour
list Abroad.
|TnE IDEAL VENICE.
!! Il Falls Far Short In Actual
Reality.
|CHARM AND GLORY DEPARTED
Invested Of False History the An
cisnt City Ii Contempti-
bio Sham.
CHARM AND GLORY DEPARTED
fcopyrieht, 1901

VENICE, Italy, May = issW.--lt is
.ot pleasant 70 10 ranked among
snoec cynics VINO go about the OLD
World rhying lconoclasfic bricks NJ
~ mystic hbrics when pocr ana
! enteu nave mon than haif Gro
49, anu wnicn the rest OF tue
<oeiu's rienaiy iancy mas ciotneu
warm nnn glowing emneiiisn-
nsnr nut however impreesionapie
nu synI htnetic one may No. tne
oei Senicc, tho complete composite
- tne expecfsnt wanderers dream
announcer ana uottcr tninB snan the
"a actuaisty' Ono hes'saves
~ socn : confsssAon. ~ seems IKE
.sune oncs cwn Judgmcnt, percep-
Won, zeoiAnss againHt tnose os myr-
s VINO nave come osiore. nese
evo come 70 wo1nlpi paf'eo rom
yenice 70 ADORE. but 80 surely US
y wouio writc az my me IN Jusuce,
n snu kinannesH, ! never else
%here came witn transports OF OK
( pVcesncy 70 meet Win such bitter
e1ness IN aisappointmeht-
everyone hopes ior travel anu its
perennial nientai least Everybody
- III u' nue, soine
49, ~ ~ ,.c '
S.s ~ |
-..-,4 - s~ . .n
- -'. 49, - - ss
-. .s.-- - .s ~ @ n s,ss' ~
- - .se' '.'"s.s NV
~. ~. ~. "ss e1 s =. a0s.1s
.''o eo1." NY ~
|, Hn- n.s. iu"'e
ookAe'on' Snang neioIe .ne
greAf paintings Oh venetian NE ana
scsnes l have seen fAirer city be-
hind the best the masters had done.
For score and half years had
rx,no on building civ Of DELIGHT.
c.,~ -v,,laa., .,,.,,n - ,,t~.noa
s'sDn =. on '''
cn. ".-"""y' "",nh' Pnce o.
ncckless AR, OF tender skies, OF
balmy zephyrs, Of colorful
if0ht nj dou,ed and minareted
1870 a,as,rr u,o,, ,ya,srs oe
s,',s s aP,n mi.
nns'ncenS hya'ino nue' ,s 10
we Venice "e al nave maue. fneie
. no such city this side OF the Ut
most isle.
coAsr sc,.xr
u.,.',,,-, A.,
came rom brinuisi py an Aeri-
aue voasfer. we skirted Apuiin,
passed Bari, Ancona, Rimini, and
It RavenDa were alongside the
lower region OF laroons. Passing
po dcll. Nf,estra >ve Ind the xvbole
,.,.~ 1...s, -,,..,,., ~ la,.o.,,,. f,-a,,,
-ft~' 'e"'' 'Ne''" 'AoA'
semir'
far rchiogSias salts ana reeds,
III view, acd as the city gradually |
rpse higher and wider out OF the |
waters. alter threading our way |
through maze OF vessels with
Itrarge-eolortd sails, quaint craft
nom Chiosgin with high peaks and
sterns ike the ancient galleons, and
ciumsy !eiuccas from trete ana the
loninn Islands, came to anchor IN
side the Mnlamocco pass, and was
landed rom smooth and
airty gonuoia, propelled by
pmck ahu nirty gohdoiier, upon
quay IN tne very heart OF the city. |
inat senetinn quay greeted me
WIN every disgustingaroma known
10 the Liverpool ana London docks,
."t. '~,s.s
and West streets,. New. York, with
Coenties slip, the Wailabout region,
and Apple Mary OF ancient and
aromatic memory Included. i could
have sat down there In the ooze and
slime OF those foui ninrble steps and
wept for disappointment and shame.
! had come by the sea that all the
imagery, beauty, mysticism of the
sea might enhance the glory of the
approach TO my visionary idol.
bad worshipped q goddess and found
ner nsh-wiIe: And i write In no
sps p.ious s OK .,ii,lne sb'rlt when say
thai i sneaked M bacr wa" ,,,,o sT sieu' an'
other ancient, mlldewcd and
fnnereal gondola; was rowcd to
the railroad station; took the first
Train rom the city toward Milan,
mung g on. ars, w,.n .,,,'.lost eiosea eyes .hese
lie thsi n XXI .iation ipland oh ich hid
the Adriatic from sight: and then
returned over the great bridge OF
arches, the way all other expcctant
travellers come; hoping thus TO find
myself SO wrong In my first seeing
sn9 Ieenng, tnas thc glorious city
u ,.,d ula'ui Ia os s.'a,mess ,,s,s, ana aeiisnt
nav % be tins vii, sesrn n y,,,ah ,r,v
al ection. II was mot ali n 10
~ honest and inst fnunJ nre.
riseIy what / had first discovered.