The morning call., 1890-06-25
How Many of Those Whose Books
We Read Are Clothed.
The Simple Draperies and Quiet Co.oIs Of
Many Wielders Of the Pen-How Mrs.
Frank Leslie Dresses.

VIII tOuSlo lucII udll Will muCu
of hot irons, who spend life's ransom on
tight fitting bodies and abuormally small
waists and big feather fans. and who firt
abominably in the conservatory under the
shelter Of the fabby leaves of big begonia.
But in spite of these acknowledged short
comings Of those whom somebody calls the
developed women" confess to certain
weakness for the inconspicuous dress, sim
pie draperies and quiet colors often char
acteristic of them.
/ wouldn't have altered, for instance, the
frocks of Miss Edwards, who lectured to us
on Egyptology all winter in plain silks, ex-
quisite of texture and Enthusiastically refined,
but costing evidently in the putting on or
taking off very little attention. Despite the
pronuncamento OF those who hold that the
chief function of one sex is to adorn itself,
they appear to me quite the ideal gowns for
busy woman.
Neither would / alter the toilets of Miss
Frances h. Willard, who recognizes the
policy OF becoming dress and buys handsome
costumes when she gets any, but who grows
frequently so absorbed In her work that she
forgetS her bonnet has been rained on and
her dress acquired wrinkle or two from
much travelling. We women have dress
preached at us in season and out Of season.
IL Wa forget 1t, that means We are in earn
est, and earnestness in almost any cause is
refreshing.
l like the simple, dark. well-shaped frocks
OF Miss Grace ii. Dodge, costing little more
than the often Shower gowns OF the work.
ing girls with whom she spends so many
pleasant evenings. When the pretty club
parlorS in Thrty-eighth street are full to
oyertiowing, and there's plenty OF room.
girls, on the floor and on the tables" how
could the smiling President take herself the
lowlest position if her skirts shuddered
when they touched carpet that might pos
sibly be dusty?
The great majority of women writers dif-
fer very little in their outward appearance
from the average intelligent rather quiet
woman who goes into quiet society.
MRS. MARY MAPEs DODGE,
The editor of ST. Nicholas, for example,
wears close fitting. matronly gowns of solid
colored silks with refined little bonnets.
You would never spot her for celebrity,
but simply remark that she was pleasant
and attractive looking. So with Margaret
f. Sangster, of Harper's Bazaar, whose win
ming face would probably leave you alto
gether obliylous of her gracefully fashioned
black dress in contrast with her fresh COM
plexiOn and prematurely whitened hair.
So with Olive Thorne Miller, the bird lover,
Of whom you would note that she was a
splendidly vigorous specimen of mature
womanhOOd, straightforward and sincere,
long before 1t would occur to you to pay
particular attention to her unobtrusive but
proper meaning word so much abused-a
little open at the throat and decked with
fine laces. So with Mrs. Martha j.
Lamb, the editor of the Magazine of Amer
lean History; so with Miss Mary F. Sey-
mour of the Business Womau's Journal,
whose frank, alert countenance, with its
bright eyes and rosy cheeks, catches the
attention much sooner than her trim little
bonnet with It's sprays of white lilac or
anything about her clothes; so with Mrs.
lfa1
Journal; SO with Mrs. Grannis of the
Church Union; so with Mrs. Belts of the
Christian Union, who will lean back IN
chair ana chat with you. and fifteen min
utes later you will catch q glimpse of
brown turbau in the middle distance, and
when it turns about you will be surprised
TO ind that it adorns the very woman with
whom you have been speaking. l know
not what others may think, but as for me
give NE the clothes that convey such an i'm
preston Of "suitableness that when they
are out of your sight you are unable to call
to mind having seen their details.
Jenny June has worn black since Mr..
Croly's death, and l don't know that any,
body could find costume in which he
would rather see her than the softly drap-
ing lace falling close about the figure with
a ribbon knotting it here and there.
Grace Greenwood commonly wears black
also. Her figure is a little bowed and she
combs her dark hair down over her ears in
the fashion OF generation ago. She Is
fond Of lace and often covers her shoulders
with handsome lace shawl or mantilla.
Mrs. NJ. Louise Thomas. who dropped her
mantle of President of SOrOsis upon the
shoulders of Ella Dietz Clymer, sister of
Secretary Bayard's wife, is stately and be-
nevolent In black velvet. She has a strong,
kind face framed in smooth coils of hair.
Mrs. Clymer dresses with a certain indi-
viduaity and grace. The last time | saw
her she wore combination of old rose and
gold, with
PICTURESQUE SLEEVES
Open from the elbows apd filled in with
deep lace ruffies. Her haiti was one of
those inconclusive things that you hesitate
to define as hat or bounet-was black lace
with wreath of,pld-rose flowers.
Kate Sanborn dresses handsomely, and
is, with her rather tall, finely developed
figure and blonde colOring. an impressive
parsonage. l have mental picture OF her
entering Mrs. Croly's drawing rooms with
witty sentence on her lips and in trail
ing black silk with square-cut neck, lace
garniture aud here and there q touch of
what one would judge to be her fayorite
color, yellow.
Laura Holloway Langford - her new
name does not yet come easlly-is small
person, slender, quick and alive in her
movements. Sometimes she wears black
with touch of blue in her bonnet or
plaided silk in which there are grayish
tnts mixed with blue
Mrs. Lee c. Hardy, the Southern poet,
who has recently made New York home, is
chestnut-haired and wears warm browns
with Vandyke lace and embroideries.
When one is as pretty as Miss Bisland there
is reason why she should deck herself with
the soft black lace, draping the bust and
exposing the round arms, in which Mr.
Champney painted the young writer.
Mrs. Frank Leslie, who combines bust
ness and social cares, gives much attention
to her toilet. and in black silk at her office
desk or ashes of roses and shaded grays at
a reception, with bonnets and gloves of
faultess match, Is always richly attred.
Robert Collyer was speaking of having met
her one evening LOADED with ropes IF
pearls" For the taste of an old-fashioned
person like myself she, with most women
who have money to buy them, wears too
many jewels. l have given over expecting
anybody TO agree with me, but do not
care to see hand covered with rings. is
prettier without ornaments or with not
more than one. However, since Mrs. Les
lie pluckily made her own money, it is her
own business what she does with it, and a
good deal goes warm-heartedly and intelli-
gently into charities. At least she wears
jewels only with evening dress when such
magnihcence Is allowed.
Mrs. Darlington Booth of the Salvation
Army is woman of whom it may be said
as truly as of Mrs. Leslie that she attends
to her gowns. 1t would not seem that the
army costume offered much chance for
elaboration, but her uniform of dark blue
skirt and plated waist is perfectly fitting
aud Of fine, rich material, finished at throat
and sleeves with white silk cord and enl-
broidered on the belt with a sacred motto.
Her large poke bonnet is of fine black
straw, trimmed with folds of navy blue
satin, the scarlet ribbon badge interviewer
about the crown. 1t is tied at the chin with
big soft bow OF broad ribbons. An
American flag Of fine silk forms regalia
sash and a plain wedding ring CLEANS on
one small hand. MYRTLE" as Marshal
Booth calls his wife, has a sweet, smooth
face, with
FINE HAZEL EYES.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox dresses pictur-
esquely, often in Empire gowns. A creamy
white silk with waist as short as Nine.
Recamier's. low neck and short sleeves,
with garniture of gold embroidery. is for
her a becoming style. Her brown hair is
N a KIN wi