Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-01-05

more exacting climate, and must live
more rapidly in every way; consequently,
we perhaps need, certainly demand, more and
heavier food. For many of us, perhaps, the
old English system of mighty Joints, roasted
or boiled, with their due complement of veg
etables, and good, sensible pudding" as
an Englishmen / knew used to say, would
be more satisfactory and more easily under
stood. 1t is not my own taste, but
| it is an honest and harmless one,
and anyone possessing it had better,
make friends with his waiter and,
calmly ignoring the opening courses,
have double portion of the beef or the NUT
ton set before him with appropriate vege-
tables, and if this does not suffice, order 1t
directly over again. Then some pudding or
pie, also duplicated if desired, with an apple
or pear at the end, will make out plain,
solid, hearty dinner, just such as our fathers
and mothers or perhaps grandparents ate in
their day, before French "kickshaws" (as
they artlessly pronounced quelque chose)
came in fashion. 1t is not necessary, my
good, plain unpretending friend, TO order
everything upon the bill of fare, or to try to
satisfy your healthy appetite with made
dishes, whose names and whose composition
are both foreign to you, nor need you fancy
that people will laugh at you for following
out your own simple tastes; they will be far
more likely to laugh at you for pretending
tastes which you have not and need not.
LOVE AND TRUFFLEs.
To those who do wish to adopt foreign
modes of eating, would say that self con-
troll and abstemiousness at table are two of
the most marked traits of French table
manners, and might well be initiated among
us. 1 do not mean refrain from eating what
you honest desire, for a small appetite is no
virtue, and its affectatiou is very absurd, but
eat what YOU want with self control and
quietly, not trying to absorb with your eyes
what you cannot consume with your mouth.
However hungry you may be, do not forget
the courtesies of the table toward others, do
not forget to finish your sentence, or to re-
ply to your neighbor's remark, because some
appetizing dish makes its appearance.
Don't, above all, gloat over your food like
Dickens fat boy. l have once or twice seen
glance come into eyes which had been
looking tender things into my own, look
which convinced me that, however sensi-
tive that mans heart might be, his stomach
was good deal more so, and when he has
resumed the tender demonstrations at later
hour have longed to inquire:
"Do you love me as well as you do cocks
combs with the trutf1es?"
Then, if you wish to eat dinner after the
French fashion, respect the courses. The
gastronomic ideas of the great cooks and
great eaters of the world are worth consid-
Grafton. Certain viands are suitable to eat
before, and certain others after, the princi-
pal dish, and TO invert their order, or to mix
them all in a sort of promiscuous confusion
is, to say the least, in bad taste. If you wish
to adopt the new fashions of feeding, adopt
their spirit and their propriety. If you
don't care for so much ceremony and
thought eat some simple dish and let the
sequence of the courses alone. In honest, if
somewhat rude, phrase, don't allow your
self to be a gourmand and glutton.
MRS. FRANK LESLIE.