, 1890-11-27

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asylum, the proprietors didn't pro-
vide for her, and she didn't intend
to wear uniform, like house OF
correction children out on holiday.
She didn't calculate to be "bossed"
by any s.orckeeper, either. Sho
earned her money and he earned
Ills. He wore what he chose, and she
didn't see why she shouldn't have
the same privilege. And there was
u great fiuttering of feathers. switch
Ing of potticoats, anti flashing Of
eyes directly the subject was men,
toned.
But since that time gradual
mobilization of dress has been going
on among the shop girls, until now
the despised color has become the
characteristic tint Of the shop girls
garb In New York almost as much
us 1t Is In Paris. This Is due to o
variety of reasons. of which the
chief one is the growing intelligence
among the girls, and not at all to
the suggestions of the proprietors
Superintendeuts of departments
and saleswomen In costume rooms
invariably wear black gowns, partly
because they are expected to in the
latter case, ms colored gowns would
frequently be brought In contact
with costumes of an inharmonious
tint and would also dctract from the
brilllancy of the gowns on sale by
lack of contrast, also because the
capable, intelligent women who
occupy important places realize that
no color Is so appropriate for bust.
ness purposes as black, which Is
always genteel and ladylike, and
never goes out OF style In single
season, like fashionable shades In
brighter hues whose popularity Is
ephemeral.
The working girls clubs have
played an important part In bring
ing about the desired reform. Tho
leaders and founders of the clubs
nre women of means and place, and
by sheer force of example In the
fearing of simple but neat gowns
and bounc,s they have done away
with much of the ostrich feather
gorge0usness of former days. The
training of the girls ip interests
above aud better than the display of
iincry, the development of woman
Illness. the hints on dress and its re-
quirements, all carefully and kindly
accomplished, have been q powerful
leaven in the bringing about of
truer instincts I'm dress.
Again, girls of delicate and re-
fined natures find that they are less
subjected to insolence and insult In
the protection of black garb, which
appeals to the better nature of men
rs possibly suggestive of sorrow and
loss. And last, and most important
of ALL black gown IL always q
cheap gown in the end, and this
consideration IL one of moment to n
girl who il trying to support herself
on 81 to $40 u week. The wonder Is
how they dress at all on the wages
they receive, and ones admiration
and respect increases for the average
shop girl upon reflection on her
ways and means and the results she
accomplishes.
A walk along Fourteenth street or
Twenty-third Mt 6 ut night or before
opening hours In the morning dis
covers the typical shop girl of to-
day, neatly appareled maiden
with IL snug little hat, dress sug-
gestive of tailor finish, style Of
coitiure tho Fifth avenue belle
might do well to accomplish, and u
bright, shrewd, intelligent face, in-
dicative of ambition and well de-
fined purpose. If you could per-
suade her to talk TO you, though she
Is not as approachable as one might
suppose, and very reticent about her
own affairs, you would find her
wonderfully we'll informed on the
topics of the day, with well defined
opinions backed up 10y we'll ground
ed arguments OH those things which
appeal to her particular condition in
life.