The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-05-13

Santangel0 and the royal palaces at the port side
and upon Capodmonte are each and all trehien-
!eeIural magnifcence in embellishment during
the past thousand years. The Castle
Mu0y9 bes9a BY o chaeS ovd Of hmm AnSg
William !, and Frederick H. in the twelfth ecu
tury the castles OF Capuano, once the princi-
pal residence OF Hoenstaufen Kings, OF Catmlne,
Win us huge round towers and OF Saint Elmo,
now dismantled and used as a military prison,
are massive medieval piles, all glorious pic.
lures but each valueess for modern defense.
It's royal theater San Carlo is one OF the most
magnibcsnt opera houses in all Italy and is a
Veriape musical shrine, since the magical num-
were nrst given TO The world within Its walls.
And Its great tnOroughfares-the Toledo, travers-
ing the entire city from bay to mountain heights
above, with the splendid streets OF the new or
western quarter. the densey thronged lanes Of
The old or eastern quarter, the Marina, along the
eastern watersde, aud the brilliant Riviera al
Chia1a, with it's fashionable throngs enjoying the
cooling winds from the sea, with all Naples
Within the iatter's resplendent Villa Reale at
plight, repeating the scenes OF the Marina at
Palermo-are all unsurpassed for diversity of
picture, variety Of incident aud plquancy of
CoLORFUL ENSEMBLE.
Yet Naples itself possesses no one grand pre-
dominating place, thing or characteristic of sur
passing interest This might perhaps, be mod
med by saying It was city OF wonderful con
poor; of the Oldest and best Italian
nobility and the most wretched OF
titled advenlprers; of dazzling beauty and most
savants and the most sodden In ignorance; of the
highest virtue and the most disgusting
i @ain dev,, SO shamefaced that even
with printed tariffs for RIGHTEOUSNESS; of the
latest modes III dress, and garb among the
iowiy as ancient as the time OF TIDerus of
frightful activity and tropical sIesta; OF deal.
enfng DIN and solemn hush; of the shrillest
aud most ceaseIess striekings day and night
ana meanwhile the most sibilant and meodiOus
oil tender yoicings; OF content and despair;
cruelty ana kindheartedness; loyalty and treach-
cry; and, as all Italy physically seems TO be IN
-embowered heaven smiling over a threat
e s.g volcanic hell, of laughing-eyed humans
win hearts In which the worst OF human pas
sions forever brood, ready at an instanIs kind.
ing Tor sedition. rapine and murder.
Inc old Naples OF the books, which we
nave all set III such picturesque framing
from travellers tales and artists INNINGS, has
wnoly passed away. Among the simple
fishermen is Of Procida. Iscnia aud Capri
ike that inspired one who, in 1647 cried
"Morte al NAL GovernO!" and at the head of his
wild followers wrung something like liberty from
the cruel Spanish Vceroy. There were from 3d.
Ooo 10 $4,000 OF these fishermen and waterside
iazzaroni once here. few dreamful beings In
rags are heard TO mutter''signOr?" here and "sig-
noi?' there as their skinny hands appraised
Tor aims, and 'grazza!-graZZiai" as they get
them. But the most OF these wretched souls
VINO once made Naples the most notorious,
DREADED and picturesque are now at work on
your aqueducts, III your mines, upon your apart
ment buildings. and at shining your boots until
they reflect the sun like a Tuscan grape. and are
tasting the sweets OF real liberty In our land Of
toll aud reward. The "slums OF Naples are no
more. Twenty million dollars, furnished by the
Italian Government. is being expended by the
inunicipaIiy Of Naples to utterly obliterate
their former foul Dreedng-paces; ana one-half
OF Inc entire Mercato and Porto districts, once
housing 208, 900 people. chiefly OF this class is
DeiDs rebuilt along widened streets so that This
gioflouS southern sun may shine IN upon 10000
decent homes. EDGAR l.. WAKEMAN
COPYRIGHT 1909