New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-21
lrnonA srArr coRRgspoNDEYr oE THE TRlBrNEl

with a restaurant on its shelving side would
possess attractions to eyes weary OF watery VlstaN
and stomachs jaded by monoonous Diet. Inc
incomnarable beauties Of the Bay OF January III
snirc under such conditions, the liYelcst lcelinS
of admiration and eXhilaratiOn. Some OF my
fellow-travellcrs were disposed TO be critical ana
10 discriminate against Rio in favor Of the lay
of Naples or the Australian harbor OF sydney
but i'm my intense delight at being relieved from
the tcdium of protracted voyage, / was Will
ING. when the sadly belatcd Advance cast anchor
last night off the city. to concede everything
which the most enthusiastic Brazilian would
claim for this truly magnificent harbor All day
long the coast scenery had been preparing one
for the glories Of this unriyalled harbor. 40
breakfast Cape Frio was in sight thirty miles
AWAY Slowly it doomed up before the eyes,
majestic, albeit deSOlate mountain Of rock, WIN
its ragged crest ,2s6 feet above the sea. behlhu
il was a stately procession Of mountains forming
continuous line Of sentries along the co's'
For sixty miles from the cape these rock-bouhd
giants exchanged their signals In guarding tnc
entrance TO Rio. Then the SuGar-Loal' rsihS
over 200 feet abruptly from the sea, closed the
outward file and opened the grand encampment
Of the Rio mountains. Y companion ROCKY
promontory guards the entrance to nay IhaC
is eighty miles in circuit-a deep haven ID WHICH
all the navios of the world might Ind anchorage
The bay is encompasSed with mountains on
every side On the left are CorcovadO, the Gavca,
Tiiuca. and many other peaks, with the Organ
rance in the distance On the right is an
amphitheatre of hills, ranging backward toward
the Serro do Mar Imagination creates sfOtesquo
mixtures and resemblances in these granite peaks
and overlapping ranges. One generation amuseS
itself with outlining Lord Hoods Nose IN the
Gavea and Tiiuca, while another sees a Sleeping
Giant reclining on his mountain bed Inc pay
with its towering mountain walls remains lor
all time vision of enchanting beauty us sur
face is gemmed with emerald islands and fortlca-
lions shining in the moonlight like murky pearls
and where Rio sits cnthrOned among lis hills ana
ravines the white clouds reflect radiant Iusie
enkind.eG by its myriad lights.
\ city situated as the Brazilian capital is must
ever be embarrassed by the wealth of natural
advantages. How beautiful and picturesque
Pio needs to be in order to be worthy of the
cOmpanionship OF those majestic mountains ana
those tranquil waters If it be less enhancing
in loneliness than its harbor and the amphitheaue
of granite peaks and verdant hillsdes, il is still
unique and unrivalled among South American
cities Half hidden among its hills 1t reveals
itself with coy modesty to unaccus;omcd eyes
1t is city of magnificent prospects and constant
surprises Sharply graded streets boldly scale
the hillsides or cautiously curve around the
bases and lead 10 concealed suburbs Castillo
and Antonio are the natural buttrcsses Of The
business section of the city, but Santa IheTeza.
Gloria and Larangeras, behind Nova CIntra. are
suburbs that have steadily grown until they are
now favorite residence quarters The shore line
in dotted with hamlets and cottages as far as the
eve can carry. New vistas of outlying hills and
ambitious suburbs are ever coming into view.
Churches, converts and mOnasterles are con-
stantly looming up in unexpected places. The
eve is refreshed with lovely we-lept gardens
Tor which rockbound hllsides are foil and
from every eminence the bay, with its wonderful
panoramic effects of islands. Notifications and
shippng. bursts upon the view with endless
variety and serene loyelness
Nature has been too lavish in her bounty Of
beauty for the welfare Of Rio. The mountains
which eucrce il shut out the nyigorating sea
breezes and leave it in the inclement seasons OF
heat fostering with disease and pague.strickeu.
Nature cannot be held wholly responsible for the
unheathfulnesS of the city. Human NEGLECT has
multiplied the evils of mountain shelter. No
other great city has been governed with less Wis
dom and prudence than Rio, and its population
of less than 100000 is Tavaged every year by
yellow fever smallpox aud heat fever 1t IS
however slowly but surely learning the necessity
for scientific drainage and sanitary precautions
Nearly all the leading streets are now drained;
the water supply is ample; the waters of the bay
are less foul from pollution than formerly, and
the streets are sprinllled in dry seasons The
death-rate is still high. but it is confined in
large part to poorer and drtier parts of the
town, which perhaps can never be cleansed save
by ire This year yellow fever and heat fever
set in unusually early. but welcome rains have
come in December and reduced the death rate 50
materially that the city is now considered in
most favorable condition Of health. The fierce
heat has been tempered by showers evening after
evening until only twelve deaths from yellow
fever are reported for a single week, and quaran-
tine restrictions in the south are relaxed From
tie middle Of January to the end CT FcbruaiE
Til, ter ihlc plague is ordinarily at its height.
but from present indications the outlook for this
winter is unusually bright.
The new GeDuDIlc0u Cover nucnt paid IN" New
York newspaper correspondents the compliments
Of sending out special customs boat 10 take them
ashore when the Advance arrived. The Minister
of Finance, Senior BarbO2a, welcomed them 10
the city by messages delivered through bis
brotherin-law. Carlos Wanna I5andcra. who
i'm charge of the launch, w T. Tislel of Wash
ingtOn, well known in connection with Congo
explorations was also on The boat, with greetings
from the United States Minister and thoughtful
and helpful suggestions on his own part. The
Advance was near the anchorage ground where
Dom Pedro II and his family hustled on
board the outgoing steamer after Midnight In
a short time We were climbing the stairs Of the
landing-per where he last stepped on Brazilian
soil and embarked on his voyage OF exile In
another moment were passing the shabby
palace, by the waters edge, Where lie held
practically a prisoner while negotiating with the
revOlutOnists. 4 few yards further and we
were at the scene of the revolutionary outbreak
when the republic was proclaimed. All was
peaceful and quiet, albeit the memory Of those
mOmentous events was still burning in mems
memories. The Dereita i'm the early morning
hour was preparing for another day Of CONNER
cial activity, without regard for the misfortuncs
of dynas,ies for the experiments Of constitution
makers. The OuvidOr. the Broadway of Rio. was
taking down its shutters and opening its doors
for brisk day Of Christmas trade with 10
thought Of the pangS Of Imperial exile or OF the
uncertainties and pcrpleXilics of the political
morrow. The rains had come and the progress
OF yellow fever had been stayed. The tempcmture