The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-06-01

The only specimen of the tramp species have
seen in Itay, though myself an unblusbing
tramp and likely to meet the brotherhood II 1t ex.
fsted here, was on the way from Campi Neteres
TO PotenZa. We met at a vayside shrine. After
succeeding in convincing him that there was
a natural affinity existing between US. l
shared the contents OF my luneh-wallet with him.
i then made him partially understand the luxu-
riOusness, versatility and numerousness of the
American tramp, and, on our way Into TIL old
earthquake shaken city, he explained with the
excellent analysis and unerring logic with which
all tramps discuss sociology, why our kind were
quite unknown IN Italy. The reasons he gave
were, briefly. that be who had no work TO do, or
lie who preferred not TO engage in toll. in his
country from choice and custom In
could adopt neither profession, because
bandit required certain amount of bravery
ana involved danger. Being a successful
beggaT made msliormation, or unpleasant dlstor-
tlon and posing necessary. Another important
reason for the non-eXsttnce OF tramps he thought
was Il certain sharp spur OF necessity which
goaded men OF desuetude 10 at least movement
in rigorous northern elmes. In such lands as
Italy sunshine and sleep were good part OF food
Itself; little actual nourisnment was requisite
where there was little waste from exertion; the
iaZZdroni could sleep out OF doors nearly all the
year roundi wine was cheaper than good water;
practically no clothing WAS required; and al
together, sentimental tourists provided hand
sOmey for all. For himself. be had soul above
begging. below The bandtti, and so loved all his
adored Italy that he aSpHed to know It from the
true travellers standpoint. To further this as
piratlon lie repaired pedal indurations by day
ana improyised pastoral epics by night. science
and pOesy. as IL were, wandering hand In hand
through the sunny ways Of Italy.
Millions OF men and women reading Millions
lines,
Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks
In valIombrosa, where tn Etruran shades
High overarch'd embower-
Have seen the vision that came in swift longing
to him 10 again dwell among the franciscan
monks in the mon sIery near the top OF the
mountain above Florence and yearned, as lie
to- FFnl SfaRHa
1t Is the one place IN all Italy, save beautiful
Palermo, which fulhlls precOuceived nOtionS.
Your journey Is eighteen miles from Florence, up
the lovely valley OF the Arno, where are embow
cred IN vine and flowers hundreds OF villas oecu-
pied by the Italian ar1StOcracy and nobility. i
broad carriage road leads all the way. Hating at
the little village OF 1osi, from which one was
formerly conveyed to the mountain re.
treat by sled drawn by oxen, an ii0Gr ia
passed at refreshments ana IN enchanting
views OF the cities, valleys, plains aud rivers
below, When the Journey Is resumed up the
PratOmaguo Mountain, through groves Of
the most magnificent beech ana chestnut trees 10
the world. The songs OF birds, the EOlan music
OF forest breeZes, and endless melodies Of Hing
waters, so bewi,ch one all the way from TOsl,
that suddenly and without warning you are at
the enchanting mountain eerie. Ii comprises
but few acres OF level meadow through which
runs a long avenue OF majestic trees, and at the
END OF TINS STANDS The lleAened and gray old mass
OF buildings, more famous from three liueS by
Milton than any other similar spot in the world.
The order Of NallonbrosauS founded ia the early
part OF the eleventh century by Gualberto OF
florence-Who, prevented by piOus impulse
from Staying The murderer OF his brother, though
at MS mercy, In thankfulueSS 10 God became Il
religious deyotee, and, eventually the founder OF
a great order-became one OF The richest and
most powerful IL Italy; and this one old mOnas-
terry held their chef treasure. For this order
Ciambue painted his priceless Madonna; Peru
giuO, his marvellous Assumption. But the
French revolution almost ruined the order.
When NapOleOn'S council debated whether
they should spare the Ndll0mbloSdns, because
they Kept The wolves thlnned iO the mountains
il was asked, Shall we have monks or woves?''
" Nolyes!" was the answer, and Victor Emanuel
q IN 1870, at the Italian diSestabliShmeHI, COM
pleied their extinction here. The place is now
used as a Government agricultural school, with a
corps OF resident professors, aud inst above the
monastery IS an observatory, one of the Italian
signal and weather stations OF today a glO-
TiOuS torrent leaps past tie edge of the meadow;
the forests In which the sweet old nest is EN-
bedded were nearly all set out by the monks;
over 10000 beech trees are now standing. all OF
which were planted by these vigorous reeluseS
and though NallombrOsa is 1000 feet above the
sea the mountain behind rises 1000 feet higher,
covered denseiy with as grand pine forest as
eyes ever 0eleld. Glorious indeed are all the
surroundings ana memories OF this little upland
valley; but from the top Of PratomagnO The
most raylShingly beautiful view In all Italy
is presented. What wOndrOus associations are
conjuTed in contemplation OF the falr far Casen-
limo Valley with It's boundary beyond formed
by the lofty Apennnes, where are born the Tiber
ana ArnOi Tuscany, home of the dream breed
Ing vine and OF FAIR woman. stretches sunDily TO
the westward. The majestic Duomo gliIters
uOWu mere Ia lne center OF the purple, c0eck-
cred valley where Florence stands. And far,
faint and magtealy seen through the passes of
The uttetmOst peaks Of CaTTara, shines thread
of sapphire where sweep the sails upon the
broad Mediterranean. Descend to The OLD monas-
terry. Dream among its clOsterS. Wander
among Its stately groves. Leave 1t to 60 your
way and never return. But all the sadness Italy
has left IN your heart will lie there with some
thing akin to f0rgivng tenderness if you have
but once drunk the ambrosia and known the
spell
where the Etrurian shades
High Overarch'd embower.
Copyright, 1897 EDsAK L, WAKEMAN.