Telegram-herald., 1890-02-19
IN TRH HOLY LAND.
Dr.. Ta1nAge Bids Farewell 70
Pat-stines Biblical Shore.
SAILING on TIE SKA OF GALIIxK


D~.sxspzs-z q . kh<a 90 Lz4-
lCouyzsAL. rza. ~ Los.ls Eopsan. ss- Yea
COzsrA xrfsOFLk, Jan 2, lo9o.-befors
saving flberiAs. Or. TalLnAgs arranged
far SAL "a Lhs AXE as far al Cspegns-
uH. ssSlrlng ooe q tks t~o bO.ts t-l-1s
n0~ eonsIE1Gs What shIpVinzs facilities
Gahles can boast of. though oRcs the
sails Of four thousand ships enAysaled rs
wassra IE vas an ordinary row beat,
With rudely oo1-sErgletsd sails, which
seemed quite superduous, as 10 prepel-
ling power consisted Of SIX cars manned
by a. uAny Arabs. We got Of swim
minziy AID ksssGiy enjoyed the x-u Ter
a. hile, bat suddenly the SKI was over
clOGdssi and ram began 70 fall-the nrsE
30 had experienced since We left New
York. and Ia less time than it takes 90
pen these lines white caps appeared. a
heavy .undercurrent became maaifestly
plain. and the boaE began 70 toss 70 and
fro az an alarming rate.
Most Of the p@zsg were painfully sea
SICK, and orders were given TO land with
the utmost speed. Bat this the oarsmen
found impossible. We got as near 70 the
land ss was considered safe and waited
for a tidal wave % carry Us over some of
the rocks between which we could not
pass. bat tidal waves did not move il
that direction Just then, and finally three
Cf the men. divesEing themselves Of their
outer garments, jumped into the shallow
water and held tho boat from being
dashed To pieces. soon the rest OF the
crew followed. and one by one the party
were carried ashore. The excitement
did not last very long. but 1t Afforded an
other page Of Galllean experience that
will not soon b. forgotten.
Az the landing place the whole neigh
borhood lad apparently turned out to
greet Us. About ono hundred men. wo-
men and children. and many OF them
more than half naked. stood ready and
waiting for something somehow 10 turn
up that would secure for them harvest
of "backsheesh. But somehow or other
nothing Of any account stirred. and 50
they began 70 start matters themselves
with the stereotyped monosyllabic query,
'-AnteekY' with which every foreigner
Is greeted, and which reported in plain
English would read: Would you like to
purchase this antiquity" No deception
- too barefaced for these tricky people
% attempt. and they must either find
tourists easily gulli5le or their opinion
Of American intelligence ia certainly
very far below par. Modern coins,
with recent dates plainly legible. are
ortIticially cOrroded and offered rs the
results of late archaeological research
stones Just picked up with the
mud still wet clinginS 70 them
are represented as part Of somo ancient
monument or statue cut in altogether
GiGerent material. Clay lamps fresh
frura the pottery. with the price marked
II Arabic. are offered as specimens Just
found IN recently excavated t0mbs of the
RncIents. And here we were besieged
by adults, children and even babies
whose whole vocabulary seemed 70 con
sist q bat the two words. "anteek" and
''oacksheesh.' We had quite q number
of small coins handy and were about 70
distribute them either piecemcal or by
throwing them at random among the
crowd, but the dragoman begged US not
% DO so. as the less fortunate ones would
surely follow rs up until IN despair we
gratihed their importunity. So We "set
our faces rs flint" against Bethsaiia and
began "a hours tramp through Shiny,
sticky mud ankle deep rather than risk
our lives again on the lake. and
gradually one BY one the crowd fell
away until az last We were again quite
alone. Some Of these natives have learn
81 iust a little English, and those. when
they SPY foreigner. generally approach
him with Il dank you verrie much for a
shilling Their request being utterly
ignored they continue. Il dank YOU
verris much for a sixpcnce." Not more
successful, next Ia order is piaster
tsbout five cents. and finally para, the
smallest coin known here anl worth
about a quarter Of a cent. If falling even
in that they turn away with a look Of the
most incGable disdain Only to repeat tho
experiment on the next lucklcss foreigner
that crosses their path
Both Capcruaum and Bethsaids are
utter ruins. the former abounling ia
choice specimens of artisticaliv s-glo-
tgred marble. while tho latter offers
nothing f any account in the wav of On
uQuiues. ont is now bein< repopUiated
sud hrough. under cultivation bv a coll
ou7 ~ German vine growers. whose beau
f-ful gardens. artistiCailv designed and
few neat. substantial hul f0ra. s~ruou-
81
with the evit terces Of shfties=nrss and
dirt that chlracterire everything pos-
seseed by .llc natives We lurche1 re
the home of one 80 these German pioneers.
who was ver~ cutsrokeu tn his disgust
with tee Turkish -ora rnnent They had
purchased ard naij fcr q barge tr3ct ~
lard. and now t6e sultan refused to issue
a frman permitting them 70 build An
aopeal 90 Berin had. however. resulted
i- -nrouraring news from tie Iran Chan
CO. ar that ed lheu 81 believe that soon
tle sslrsn wo1ld Pc persuaded to grant
what hv right tlev we're entitled ca. So
--er-r,-,. siuriv inoolerant ara the
Tarss IT foreign imm grafton, or even
tra~eir-7 ara tourists. tf-at -hov hate .ss
sEat - .he hotsi keepers who afford
trrrr r~t-rtsi- -r-e-t
Loving the Garuf7u 20 frht his 0-vn
f~irs ve r~ee-03 en- a. is had ceen so
r-rf thaf r0 fhe morrow Ve were to
pass r-r 1f Palestine ard iat1 Syria. s71
unless siS scurs mora ~ere spent il Che
s1dl ne r.r.i rCt russ ahead far
enough 81 render chs practieah'a. ou