Waterbury evening Democrat., 1890-09-19
uNTER DEN LINDEN.
Graphic Pen Picture of the German Cap-
 itaI,s Famous Boulevard.


 The great sights and wonders of Ber- lin are concentrated along the famous avenue Inter den Linden and in the vicinity of the old Schloss, whither the visitor will inevitably direct his steps, and where he will certainly acquire his most imposing and durable impressions of the German capital. We will sup pose that he reaches Inter den Linden through the Friedrichstrasse, one of the largest, busiest and most brilliant streets of Berlin, lined with shops of all kinds, and interspersed with several re- markable new buildings in the old Ger man style, devoted to the sale of beer. Gambrinus is the most liberal and enlightened patron of architecture in modern Berlin. The intersection of Friedrichstrasse and Unter den Linden is a peculiarly busy and characteristic spot. On one corner is an old-fashioned ''conditorei," or pastry-cool's shop. with little terrace barely two feet wide, which forms a pleasant vantage point whence to view the spectacle of the street as you sip coffee and eat cakes. On the opposite corner is the Cafe Bauer, which the Berlipers hold tc be one of the sights of the oapital-a
 
 most approved style, lighted by cleo. tricity, and decorated with brilliant. colored classical frescoes by A. de Werner and Wilberg, representing the joys and luxury of the Greeks and Romans. At another corner, under the trees. is TrinlShalle for the sale of non-spirituous drinks, such as sirups, seltzer and soda, presided over 1x Of called by the Berliners ''Sodalisken," in contradistinction to the 'Kellner- innen" and "Schankmamsells," who serve in beer saloons and ''Kneipen," or tap-rooms of low degree. The traf- fic here is crowded; there are vans, drays, omnibuses, small carts drawn by dogs, a few private carriages and quan- titles of cabs, or ''Droschken," as they are called, the last of two categories, first and second class, the one as unde- sirable as the other. In the middle of the roadway mounted policeman sits his horse with an air of corpulent au- thority and austere uselessness. Unter den Linden stretches to the right and left, 16O feet broad, 1,5O0 yards long, planted with four rows of chestnut and lime trees, and divided into road
 
 At one end of this avenue is the Brand enburg Gate, which forms the entrance to the Kindergarten, very much as the Arc de Triomphe at Paris marks the en- trance to the great fashionable prom. enade of the Bois de Boulogne. The Brandenburg Gate is effective, whether we look at it from the pretty Pariser- platz or from the Thiergarten side, where it's architectural lines contract ! with the surrounding yerdure, and form the background of familiar scenes of elegant life in Berlin, such as the equestrian groups of hrilliantly-uni- formed officers and smart ladies going to or returning from the morning ride tn tho park. The reader will not be astonished to learn that the Brandenburg Gate is built on the model of the Propylea of Athens; that it is surmounted by a Guadriga driven by Victory; that it is flanked by guard-house, whose guard is kept busy saluting and presenting arms to the numerous military big g-wigs who are constantly passing; and, finally. that all its splepdor is sham, and its Doric col umns simple stucco. Let us note also that the ThierGarten is traversed by lines of horse-cars.
 Turning eastward, we will stroll along Unter den Linden, and note such things as may strike our eyes. The first ob- servation that we make is that the fa- nous linden-treos are not so regul arly planted or so flourishing as we expect ed to find them, and the second is that Unter den Linden is badly kept, in. differently paved, and mere quag- iun rhnr, fn11 s.xsl ing posts and rails are even more ele- mentary and unpleasing than those which disgrace Rotten Row in London, while the benches are the most primi- tive that could be imagined. On the sight we notice the handsome palace of Count Rederp, reproduction of a Florentine building. Then come some picture shops, where something pink and delicate of Gabriel Max attracts the eye. Here is a terra-cotta store, full of busts of the Kaisers, of Bis marck, and of Moltl1e. We reach the Kaisergallerie. fine arcade less splendid than the Victor Emmanuel arcade at Milan, but still a laudable effort in the Renaissance style, and as good as yellow brick and terra cotta can make it. The Kaisergallerie is lined "lGH ShopS pndJ uo not seem prosperous in the middle is 3 Wiener Cafe which has marked importance in the eyes of of young bloods of Berlin; on the up- per floors of the arcade is the wax-work show called Castan's Panopticum, the Musee GFeyip of Berlin. We cross the Friedrichstrassee and note the quaint aspect Of the drivers of the yellow parcels-post vans, who seem lost in their ct tc hn N0RN 1I pered by the brazen horn slung under their arms with red and white cord. Then we take cup of coffee at the Cafe Bauer. glance around at the va rious types at the tables, discreetly sheltered from the gaze of curious pass CTS by a thick hedge of shrubs, and after this brief rest we stay to look at nothing until we reach the monument IL. l.