The morning call., 1890-12-25
a LOOK AT
STUTTGART.
A German Town in Which People
Are Much Like Americans.
Its schloss Platz With It's Many Statues of Men
Known in History-The Big Uni
versity at Tuebingen.

In the first place the climate does much
toward this end. The town is protected OH
three sides by hills, on the fourth it opens
upon suburb, Kanr stadt, situated on the
river Neekar, which here becomes navigable.
Hence, ''eS liegt I'M Kessel, as the Germans
say, and by reason of its lying in this mar
row little hill Dordered basin, IL does not
suffer from the cold and chilling blasts
which sweep over and through the cities of
the plain, such as Munich and Augsburg.
In the second place, the small cost of liv-
ing induces many foreigners as well as Wur-
temberges to come here to pass the winter.
Yet Stuttgart does not overflow with the
Engllsh-speaking people, as does Dresden.
Tor instance. One thing is noticeable. how
ever, viz: The large number of attractive
and contented faces seen, circumstance due
perhaps in part to this lesseneds cost OF liv-
ing.
1t will be at once and correctly surmised
that the third reason for this livableness is
TO be found in the many and varied educa-
tional advantages. They are as good as
those of the Saxon capital above mentioned.
The opera, however, is by no means as good
as it is there, though both music and drama
are very worthily represented here as COM
pared with cities of the same size and rank
IA oAhCi ScuhtliCS. 1HCN odllSiy any Oue
not spoiled by the metropolitan attractions
of larger places.
The majority of travellers. too, will likely
unite in the judgment that Stuttgart is the
most beautiful of the German capitals, as
well as the most picturesquely situated.
The new Royal Palace is the building hict,
by reason of IFS size, if not of its architectu-
ral merit, attracts the first attention. Its
interior, too, must be worth something.
aside from the collections, for Napoleon said
II was the most habitable palace in Europe.
He ought to have known. for he tried most,
whether they belonged to him or not.
ONE OF THE PRErTIEsr SQUARES
Imaginable is certainly the SchlOss Platz.
On one side is the Kings Palace, of course,
thf II on the next the Princes Palace, and OPP
ppslte to this the Opera-house. The fourth
de is occupied by what is known as the
koenigsban, long Ionic colonnade, the
magnificent porticO TO a building devoted,
the lower story to shops, the upper to exh-
bition concert aud club-rooms. The effect
of the massive pile as seen from distance,
however, gives the stranger the impre ssion
that II can he nothing less monumental than
courthouse or museum. AT ali events it
recalls the idea OF those edifices which must
have bOrdeled the Roman Forum.
Adjoining this SchloSs Platz are some re-
markaDle moieTn statues. In the middle
stands column, sixty or seventy feet high,
surmounted by gigantic Conc0rdIa On
each side are exquisite fountains which,
appropriately enough, are like those of the
Place de Ia Concorde IN Paris. Then comes
:he peopllDg of the place by splendid
bronze statues of past rulers. The mar
bic bust Of the sculptor Dannecker is
quite the equal of these, and is a pleasing
contrast. In the adjoining square, really Il
part Of this, stands Ihorvaldsen's statue OF
Schiller, erected by the nation TO adorn this
town, SO associated with his youth. For it
was here at the Karlsruhe that Schiller,
when 16yearS old. began his medical studies
Here he wrote his first drama. Here he be-
came "Medikus" TO a grenadier regiment at
is horins month. And from here the
young man, now 23years of age, in whom the
poet had become stronger than the DOCTOR
deserted and fed to Mannheim because his
liege loTd had forbidden him ever again 10
write comedies or such like"
he most interesIiugs adornment of this
SchiosS Piatz, however, Is the old Palace
standing diagOnally with the newer and adj
Jacent buildings. aud SO AUDITING but cor
ner tower into view. Albeit a bit gloomy, il
is one OF the most picturesque buildings
going, with It's great arcaded court, its grim
outer fseades and its huge towers. 1t does
not require much stretch of the Imagination
to fancy doughty old Duke Christopher there
now. lie must have matched the palace.
STUTTGART POSSESSES NO MEAN GALLERY
That is If they made a bonfire of nine out OF
every ten pictures. The rest would then
form a very choice collection. As to the
latter, there is grotesqueness about the
naming, though many mistakes have been
rectifed. 1t seems that the late King bought
whole row of supposed Titians. Most OF
them are, indeed, very remarkable and
beautiful pictures, but more modern
criticism has discovered them 10 be Palmas.
GiOrgiones and Bonifazios. And why not?
They ought to be still as valuable, for were
Eot these lesS-known artists as noteworthy
III their way as the mightier Titan? The
gems OF the collection. however, and also
found in the works of Zeitblom, a German
painter OF the Nuremberg school and living
in the age of DueTer. Whatever restoration
may have done or spoiled, there still remains
tile marvellous meaning, realism and beauty
OF that far away thinker who painted and to
whom the histories of art have done scant
justice.
There is no university at Stuttgart, al
though there Is notable .polytechnical
school. The great University of Wurtem-
berg is net far from Stuttgart, at Tue
bingen. the poet Uhand's home. One thou
sand to thirteen hundred students are in
attendance and the PROFESSIONAL list of the
university comprises nearly a hundred
names. The medical and theological facul-
ties here are most prominent Indeed, the
"Tuebingen School" is known everywhere
among theologlans. And what scholars,
such as Melanchthon, Reuchlin, Baur, this
university has numbered in its professors.
Very romantically situated is Tuebingen,
indeed, no German university town may vie
with it in this respect save Heidelberg.
Two things are continually impressed
upon the stranger in Stuttgart; one, that
he is in as essentially court city as any,
the other that be Is in the midst of a people
who seem more like Americans than any
other German race.
As to the court itself, it may or may not
ha m In
Bavarians or Wurtem bergers may be to their
royal houses it cannot be denied that IL conf
parison with that of Hoherzollern these are
deeTepid. Indeed, to the friends of
THAT NOW IMPERIAL RACE,
As well as to the friends of Prussian GEN.
traliZaton, or better, German unity it is
desirable that these subordinate ROYALTIES
cease holding too many strings of temporal
power. no matter upon how many heart
strings they may play. Still there are enough
local fires To burn long time yet.
But in spite of subo!dnation Stuttgart i'm
presses one as being In its very essence
court city. There is a certain effective group
ing of royal buildings about a common CEN
ter. From the New Palace, indeed, great
royal Iark extends two miles right through
Stuttgart, If you please. to Kannstadt, and
then, when you are at that Neckar-tOwn,
there are series of royal if very charming
villas, the Berg, the RoseDsein, the Will
helma. At II o'clock every day it Is the
royal parade in the Schloss Platz, which
abSOrbs every ones attention. Why, there's
q royal protection 10 every endeavOr and
charity! Stuttgart seems to exist but by
the grace of the King.
And yet. strange TO say, even judged from
a republican standpoint, nowhere does this
pervasiye monarchical sentiment and ex-
preston seem TO be preposterOus, ont of place,
disagreeable. There's comfortable assur-
ance about every ones talk that after all the
things quite right. at all events the best I'M
der the circumstances. Possibly ono reason
for this responsiveness is that there has been
some genuine looking out for the enjoyment
and profit Of the people. That tells in the
long run.
1t is then even stranger that this monarch
ically inclined folk should remind an Ameri-
can OF his c0untrymen. The reason, how
ever, is found in the prevalent and enligbt-
ened industry, whether in the country in
the production of field and vineyard, or here
In this city, whose most prominent branch
of labor is that of publishing. Indeed
Stuttgart ranks only after Heidelberg in
this regard. The wide-awakeness Of head
as well as hand industry naturally leaves