Telegram-herald., 1890-03-05
HOW THE ENGLISH LIVE.
NOT 50 FOND or ROT on VERY
COLD DISHES IS AMERICANS.
-Sts' Means ms4s Pies --r.<s'' ns@.s Pie.
sAd ~Di1zsFs" GsGsral IsFn.- sts@as
sIsat NAa T.s Vegetables wiEhOzs Bat
- Oprrenoa.leaae.l

PHILADELPHIA, Fe5. Il" " hSJever
yOu %. don't ger Al kaglLsh cook said
a. American. long resident Ia London,
- friend. a new conner, - 10 was think
Ing u taking house. The English
simply cannot COOK. and the worst Of il
Is that they ars Grmiy convinced that
they are the only people Who can, 50 that
Il b impossible 70 teach them
To a certain degree she was right: tho
travelled Eng hshman Of the ighsr classes
l. boa ylyant, = connolsssur in Affairs
Of the table, but his average fellow coun-
tTyman, and still more fellow country
woman, rivals the Chinaman in con
tempt for ali outside barbarians," and
regards his insular beef aud mutton, his
veal and am pie as the only yictuals for
Christians. Most OF the roast beef Of
Old England" comes nowadays from:
America and Australia. and, thanks 10
the system Of refrigerator shipment, the
imported beef Is for the most part supe-
rior TO the domestic article, although few
of the English " IN admit il; indeed, some
Of them still consider il as only next door
10 poison.
The regular every day dinner OF the
middle class family OF moderate means
consists OF beef or mutton boiled 10 death
or roasted 10 dry testelessness (the En-
glish abhor rare meat, with white pota-
toes and cabbage, followed by some sort
OF pudding for dessert, not because there
Il any lack Of variety from which 70
choose, but merely because il is their
habit, aad john Bull is a stickler for
regular habits. The English mutton is
excellent, far more juicy and tender
than our best Southdown, and they cook
it much better than they do beef The
usual mode Of cooking fowl. which al
ways means chicken, is 70 boil it with
ham. The Saxon fondness for the swine
is general. as "veal and am" (ham),
fowl and am" and the certainty with
which you are offered am and heggs"
ar every country inn abundantly testify.
At first the ham, which is nearly always
good, imparts an agreeable flavor to the
fowl, but 1t becomes monotonous to the
stranger after awhile, though the natives
never seem 10 tire of it. Pigs trotters"
Il e., pigs feet--are esteemed a great
delicacy among the common people and
may be had in every London cook shop.
The English are great fish eaters, and
there are many eating houses in London
and elsewhere where only fish is served.
The sole, the turbot and the john-doree
are among specialties. The latter is close
" akin to our drumfsh in appearance and
flavor, and, like it, is only TO be caught
under certain favoring conditions of wind
and tide. Shrimps are another delicacy,
and are sold on the streets by the haw kers.
Those at Greenwich are esteemed espe-
cially good, and it is a common thing for
the passenger on the penny boats TO buy
a pocketful of shrimps to regale himself
with on the return trip, eating them as
cOOlly as the American does peanuts.
When the Englishman gives an American
dinner, he always, by way of compli-
ment to the guest, includes raw oysters
on the bill of fare, compliment which,
il it be the guests first experience of the
British oyster, is apt to take away his
appetite That bivalve is small and
leathery, and the strong coppery flavor,
which the English like so much, is any
thing but agreeable to a novice. "Our
oysters are small" said an Englishman
who had travelled much, and was famil-
lar with American cities, "our oysters
are small, but then the flavor Ny idea
OF the ideal oyster is one of your Blue
Points with the flavor of our English
oyster"
Him" answered disguised Ameri-
can. who was vainly endeavoring 10
wash the said flavor out Of his mouth;
"the flavor is easy enough 70 get. Just
suck a copper ceatr'
The English care far less for hot dishes
than we do. In every hotel dining room
or large restaurant you will find a table
spread with cold meats OF all sorts, in
Guiding several kinds of fish and game,
most appetizingly garnished and deco
rated. Quite IS many orders are taken
for this table rs for the kitchen, and it is
a usual thing for the customer to 90 over
to it IN order to make his choice. fire.
qusntly directing the carver what cut 10
serve. So. also YOU may buy cold meats,
ham, fowl, game, salmon, beef. roast or
Ia mode. tongue. head cheese, mutton,
veal; anything. in fact, which you may
want for luncheon or high tea. daintily
dressed in the best French style. Much
more astonishing than the fancy for cold
meats is that for cold toast. The toast
rack is a usual appendage OF the Eng
lish breakfast table, and is invariably
filed with toast, stone cold.
| once heard an indignant American
declare his belief that his Iandlady made
toast once a week to last seven days.
And it don't take much to last me, |
can tell your he added. The English muf-
fn u rarely served hot. and is at its best
when split open and toasted. Hot and
little rlcher. it would be much like the
American fapJack. There are nocrack-
ers IN England; our crackers" are all
biscuits. SO. also, fruit pies are known
only as tarts. the term PIE being confined
70 meat pasties. Love in disguise" is
the tide. not Of a dainty dessert. but Of
a sleeps heart baked IN a pie II you
call for pie In A London restaurant the
waiter answers, Yes, sir; veal and am,
or beefsteakT' The English potato is
perfect. mealy. large, and white as boited
wheaton -four. Sweet potatoes are an
Imported luxury. as "a Indian corn. which
Is little cultivated in the United King
dom. The vegetable marrow q LELAND
a identical with the squash q New Eng
land and the cymIng u the southern
states. All Green herbs FOR food grow
luxurisntiT in the moist, mild Eurlisb