Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-10-02

| somewhat divided on the proper dimen-
sions of the skirt. Now as the skirt es-
peclally in full dress is the major part, it
| is deserving the greater attention and in
the making the question of drapery or
| skimpiness becomes serious. The favorite
| skirt now seems TO be the one the most
simply made, falling straight and fun
| from the waist. To most figures nothing
can be more attractive or becoming. A
very tall, slight figure should have some
| thing less severe. A slight drapery is
easily arranged By the skirt being caugh.
| up with loops of ribbon.
| Ladies returning from the various sum-
mer resorts ell route for home have lin
! gered few days IN the larger cities. and
they report that the day of frills and
| tiounces is here. A promenade up Broad
| wav, for instance, is convincing. Frllls
! and hounces-that what they are
! frlls about the neck and flouuces at the
| hem of the skirt. Just the real old fash
| Toned plated or gathered tiounces that
| had TO go on the bottom of gown q few
years ago, quite as much as the braid
| binding.
Still many women are alive to the fact
| that these gowns are neither artistic nor
| economical, and prefer elegance in one
! made for the street in this fashion. If
| the materials selected are of plain aud
plaid, having also the border that almost
| universally comes with plain wool goods
! this season, the skirt is plated. 1t has
| panel of the plain goods in narrow plaits;
| on either side of the panel the border 10
! arranged in straight lines. Close fitting
| bodice, with revers and straight vest
with point; the revers and front OF the
| bodice are finished with The border.
81 ,l.rN 1r-- Il ,1aanFa
| behind. Collar, cuffs and belt of the
! border material.
While good taste must lean to quiet
dressing on the street, and green can
hardly be considered a color to meet this
! demand, there is apparent a purpose TO
| use it in street dresses for the fall and
winter, and, subdued as in the following
! description, is not so Objectionable. The
| dress proper is of fawn cOiored cloth ov
| a petticoat of dark green velvet. The
| skirt is very slightly dTaped in front, but
| is piGited behind and hangs perfectly
| plain, and opens on each side to show the
| green, the edge being braided with green
| silk braid. The bodice is pointed in front
and finished behind with the plain finish
! of a riding habit. 1t opens with revers
! faced with the velvet over white vest
| embroidered with the green. The long,
| tight sleeves are slightly gathered on the
| shoulders and Ornnmented with the
| brajding at the wrists. To make this
| handsome toilet complete there is 10 wear
with it a large hat of fawn colored felt,
with trimming and plume of dark green.
Although there are many new weaves
| in wool the well-tried and favorite cash
mere retains its hold on popular favor.
| A very pretty home costume is OF plain
! 1nit aI-Tr OH 10
| full at the sides and front, and in plaits
at the back The sides aud back of the
waist are close fitting; the front has
square yoke, with a full vest set on with
q shrrred rufIle. Straight collar; sleeves
| very full at The shoulders and plain at
| the wrists with braided cuffs. Wide
sash of fancy silk, with drop and ball
fringe.
A handsome costume for one dressing
| in mourning requires henrietta cloth.
| The dress is of this combined with crepe,
| princess body; the skirt in sections be-
tween which are insertions of crepe; the
back Is in box plaits. The body is close
| fitting, with graduated revers over
| straight vest of the crepe. Sleeves full
at the shoulders and plain below, with
trimming of buttons. Plain collar.
Afternoon receptions promise to be
leading feature in gay life, and this of
| course involves tea gowns. Some eX-
| tremey handsome ones are being made
of nun s yelling and camel's hair. These
gowns are cut in Greek style and trim
! med with gold and silver passementerie
laid over white or heliotrope bands.
Some of the many ct ceteras of autumn
costumes are suits made up in combina-
ton with Tartan surahs, and en- suite are
hot
trimmings, and black velvet pelerlnes
lined with the plaided silk and trimmed
with neck piece of ostrich feathers.
Gray Tartan silk shirt waists are worn
with dark skirts of various kinds.
Bright red silk blouses are made with
deeply pointed yoke at the back, straight
shirt sleeves, a turu-down collar, and
cuffs feather stitched with black silk or
with color. Black lustrous silk blouses
have black velvet yokes, silk sleeves
with velvet cuffs and velvet girdle.
Notes.
The cape for street and evening wear
is going to yield to the longer mantelette,
it is predicted. These will be caught at
the belt line in the back, and will fall
low in front.
A rufie around the bottom of the skirt
is the distinguishing feature of all the
new gowns.
The Madame de Stael bonnet, or
rather turban. is among the stylish
things in headgear for early autumn. 1t
| is made of two bands of jet with a soft
puff of velvet between.
In oil house and carriage gowns the
| boots must be made TO match the pre-
vailing color of the costume.
The Medici collar is on bodlces and
outside garments of all kinds, and is of
| most varied size.
Camel s-hair rivals faced cloths for
| tailor gowns, and is combined with vel
| vet, which may be braided in metal or
silk cords.
paner skirt turned up towards the
hips, like the laveuse drapery of long
ago, is part of some OF the cloth gowns
recently brought from Paris. The short,
round front is taken up in folds on the
sides, and the long back has ali its full
ness drawn in a very narrow space at the
waist line.
BLACK lace fiouuces grow in favor for