, 1890-03-20

sang Of IL as the Wnltc dove upon
the hlllside.n Here ut the waters
edge arc stupendous quays, esplan-
ades, arches, ,entablatures. They stop
shortly at the north, succession OF
lighthouses, arsenals sitting In upon
the line of sight. all terminating In
great Fort Neuf, Point ct kettani,
and the distant gllmpses of the
white walls of st. Eugene ut the
north. To the south they sweep I'm
graceful curve to Fort Bah Azoun,
where the shore curves magnificent
ly landward, and out sea ward again
TO the far out-rcaching promontory
of Cape Matifou, succeeding which
II the CLINT of another mol le bay
with the mighty headlands Of
Djurdiura piercing tho sea at the far
horizon-edge beyond.
Before you rises the city, new and
old-new where the stirring French
have torn away ancient mosques
and fortresses and with hundreds of
millions Of francs built almost an
other Paris IN park, boulevard, ho-
tel, palace and monument; wholly
old beyond and above, older than
Mohammedanism, perhaps some of
II older than the Bible. To your
right and near the sea, the Grande
Mosque, Dlamaa el.Keber, lifts Its
graceful minaret built by Tlemcen
in 1924 and nearer still TO the sea,
the olden center Of worship and
affairs, stands the mosque, Djamaa
el-Djedid, with It's mighty central
dome and four lesser ones, built i'm
the form of n Greek cross by "a Gen.
oese architect vino suffered death
for thus having imposed n symbol
OF the Christian religion upon Mus
sulmen worshipers. Beyond these
the thoroughfares narrow; the
structures grow denscr, and old AL
giers climbs the heights mass of
brilliant terraces, domes and NINA
rets, housing population as weird
and strange as the world can pro-
duce, TO the nose of the lofty prom
ontory behind. To the north, the
city breaks away In detached vii
lages toward the sea. To the south,
and still noun tainward, stretches
the villas and palaces Of Mustapha
Below IL are plalas and
vast drill maneuverlng grounds for
the French army. And still be-
meath, are the quaint old walls and
sbadowy streets where live the
lowly of Algiers, In Mustapha In-
ferieur. Above all, perched upon
the brow of the promontory, IL the
tremendous ancient Fort rEm-
pereur, where the camp OF Charles
V. was once pitched, and where
ieneral Beaumont received the
capitulation of Algiers. While Just
beneath, fit emblems of complete
are the stupendous
though ruined and crumbling re-
mains of the old Moorish kasbah or
citadel, where, as the palace and
of the Deys, enormous
-reasure was stored. Ii was defended
~ 200 pieces of artillery; lookouts
we're kept from Its heights for luck
ess craft and signals here given
ordering their capture by the fierce
pirates of the harbor; and IL was in !
he now extinct pahce within its |
walls where the slap of fan In the |
ace of "a French consul by the last !
Algerian Dey cost that potentate |
his dominion. AS one looks upon !
I all In this glorious Algerian morn
the entire scene Is one
# white-winged peace and languor-
'us rest. White and green and |
,early blue are in city heights. and
ga and sky. There Is IL gravi-
Y In movement Of every human In /
light that tells repose. The sea is n
'ed Of unrufiied pearl. The great
Mosques hint Of cool sileuces leading
% shndowy mihrnbs which ever
'oint to the one Mecca of the Orient /
md Its restful paradise beyond. Far
n the depths of the hillside vord-
IRE one sees where songful fountains
ire. The deep green of olives, the
ordly shade of fan palms, even the
ofty empurpled mountains beyond 1
he odorous valleys, speak but of
est. As you step for the first time
lpon Africa's shore, the sun, the
ky, the sea, the air, mountains and
ALLEYS, city old and citizen grave,
seem one blended invitation
q endless and tender quietude In
dreamlands Of rcpose.
EDGAR L.. WAKEMAN.