The Forrest City times., 1890-03-22
MODEL COOKING SCHOOL
PRACTICAL WAY OF IMPROVING
 BRITISH COOKING.
Example Is Better Than Prsoept"--
 Over 10000 Pupils Since 1874.

A correspondent mus Wr1tcs or u visit to a London cooking school: In the large vestibule of the school, into which we pass, is broad counter en- closing corner, and here, on '.fair white cloth" arc arranged all manner of ornamental dishes, entrees, galan- tines, jellies, creams, etc., which are iaily made by the teachers in the demonstration classes, and are here set out for sale. No doubt many clever housewife avals herself of this method of procuring admirably made dishes at trifling cost which could not be turned out at home without $500 chef Turning the corner of the counter we find ourselves in wide passage, which divides tho various kitchens. The first kitchen is empty, but Mrs. Clarke tells me it is to be used for children's classes, the demonstra- tors ga stove being placed in the mid dle between three large tables. outside which the pupils stand and imbibc in struction.
 The next kitchen Is very big, and indeed it needs 10 be, for there are about twenty girls and women in it., pupils and teachers, and yet Mrs. Clarke says that it is unusually empty, owing to the inroads of influenza on both staff and pupils. This is the prac- ticc-kitchcn for plain cookery. A group of girls arc gathered round one table, making apple -dumplings under the supervision and example of the teacher, who is making some too. far ther on is another broad table into which gas-ranges are let at intervals, at one of which stands quite young girl. garbed in the regulation apron and hslf-sleeyes, but of an age to wear her hair in schoolgirl fashion down her back. She is ev dently novi c in the culinary art, and is stir. ing n saucepanful of apple jelly in embryo, which is simmering over the gas, ill a tentative way, as if she were not quite sure what was going to happen next. In beyond this kitchen is the practice scullery, where the pupils are taught the proper methods of washing up, the best way to clean pots and pans, the management of ovens and iireplaccs, open and close ranges, and sundry other matters of practical detail of which the ordinary British cook is cofi- spicuously ignorant.
 Passing once again through the big airy kitchen, where the central group of pupilsis busily rolling out tho pas try for the dumplings. we cross the passage into another kitchen nearly as Ia ee, which Is the practical kitchen for piis arc somewhat older, as becomes those who would penetrate the arcana of soups, entrees, purecs, savouries, sweets. ornamental pastry. and fancy cakes. It has evidently been a day of cakes. for all sorts of cAoUx ia creme. seones, cakes. &c., are being neatly ar- ranged in huge sievcs as they are taken out of the various ovens. Tho lesson of the day has been on fish en- trees, and the dainty fingers of the teacher arc engaged on soioS ia kDH. cRndfSt when we enter. l watch tho whole process from beginning to end i: tho neaness. :. the methodieai precision which oconosnizes so much time and inakes ilurr, impossible and unneces- sary. the extremely simple and lucid explanations how. why, and when to mix each ingredient, and the exquisite cleanliness and avoidance of all hand ling; and l come to the conclusion that such teaching, founded OH the old prov orb, Example is better than pre- eept. k not only invaluable, but ab- surdly cheap at the price of eighteen pence for lesson of two hours, or ten-and.sixp pence for course of twen- ty weeks lessons of five days week.
 Such teaching Is worth all the cook ery-books in the world. for the written recipes can never give detin.te idea of what n dish ought to look like In color and general appearance when served, and appearance Is quito half the battle in good cookery. Nothing could be more appetisiug in appearance than the dish that the teacher sets before us, the fiilcts of sole smothcred in tho thick creamy sauce, whose whiteness Is re- lieyed by the pattern in pounded coral which recalls the lobster siufling under meath. My uncanny mind immediately sees likeness between the s.Demon- stration room, with it's tiers of raised seats overlooking huge table. and the dissecting-room at hospital but keep the idea 10 myself, and do not seek to give qualms to my companion by suggesting 1t. The seats are ocett- pied by number of women mostly cooks, should say who. armed with notebooks and pencils. iot down the remarks of the teacher, a neat fingered, dainty little figure, in her snowy white cap, apron and sleeves.
 The audience amuses me; ii Is so easy to distinguish those who have come there of their own accord, and paid the fec themselves out of their own pockets, with the earnest desire to acquire as much knowledge as possible, from those who have been sent there by their respective .smissises," and who eye the teacher supcrciliously, hardly condcscending from time to time 10 make note in their books for forms sake. The fact that since the opening of the School in 1874 no less than forty thousand five hundred pupils have passed through the various classes down to the l.resent time. is proof that il has not been created in yain