Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1890-08-04
CLOVELLY.
Quaint English Town on the DevOnshire
Coast.

Americans generally can go to Londo1
and leave it without much of tug al
their heart-strings; but when once they
get peep at and shade of acquaintance
with some of the charming towns, they be-
gin to realize what England's true life is
Things are on a small scale compared with
this country's plains rivers lakes ano
mountains, hut the sky is divinely gentle
the air soft and restful, the turf green
thick and solid, the foliage luxuriant, the
flowers plenty, and the red tiled roof,
bright aud clean. And, among these gooG
countryside people themselves, what place
do you suppose many of them look to az
the loveliest one of all? Clovelly, II
Devonshire! 1t is a town built on the
side of cliff, with the bottom houses al
the edge of the sea. There is only one
main street, that winds and lodges in and
out among the cottages like the course Of
ball in "pigs in clover" To stand al
the top and look down is to see the tops Of
the little houses embowered with vines
and trees climbing up from the dock ,00C
feet below. No wagons can GO up or down.
the nearest approach by team being along
the connecting promontory, half a mile
away. So everything to be moved is car
ried by hand. The grocers and butchers
deliver their goods on foot, and visitors
baggage is slid down and dragged up at
the end of rope. The dock is solid
stone wall, embracing small arm of the
ocean, making snug and safe harbor for
the fishers and freighters upon which
Clovelly's life depends
But the town is beautiful, with its
quaint houses, their gables.and tiled roofs
moss grown. their queer closets in the
outside walls, their overhanging windows
and uneven, fower-guarded stone steps.
There are walls of light-buf plaster
stucco, hung with curtains of ivy, honey
suckle and fuchsia. The harbor is worth
a chapter all to itself. When the tide is
out the boats are tumbled over on their
sides, and the crews loiter about the har-
Dor wall, or in the inns conveniently at
hand. The top of the wall is wide enough
for carriage road, and at night it is a
rare spot for lovers 10 meet. On moon
light night the picture from this wall is
enhancing beyond words. The blue
water spreads out in front with white sails
dotting it, and the waves shimmering like
liquid silver under the moons rays. At
the back rise the rocks of the Devon coast,
wreathed and softened by sweet flowers,
with the lighted windows of Clovelly
twinkling in the shades.
Fifty houses, in round numbers, make
up the village Except for the elatter of
the hob-nailed shoes on the stones with
which the street and walks are cobbled, all
is peace. The noise made by the shoes OF
the natives is no faint one. 1t is incess-
ant, and there is not room in the town
that can shut it oct.
Among the inns are the New Inn, the
Hoop and the Red Lion. The interiors,
like the names, are characteristic of the
country. Low, time-darkened ceilings,
brick fireplaces with oak mantels, high
backed settees, robust maids who chat and
chatter with old patrons, mark them all.
The home people have peculiar dialect,
always suggesting the Irish brogue. They
call stove "bodley," flat-iron "heat-
er," say "rayson" for reason. and "dacinti'
for decent. Ask man what makes his
children so hearty and healthy, and the
like this: at is not ating, EUR,
as makes 'em. Lord knows our work
ing folk gifts a good many of lem
five or six or seven. In the marnin
they get up and have their wash-apt to
be the best wash they'll git till next marn-
in, EUR; and then they ave their broth
out of the kettle, and milk and a little
salt, and perhaps they'll git little bread
and tryele (molasses) and aft they go
to school-yiz, EUR Poor little things
You'll zee them barelegged to the thigh
in the coolest weather. After school they
git the zame, or perhaps bread and trycle
again, or maybe little jam. Zometimes
a little bacon, EUR, but not much meat
comes to them. We don't think much
meat is good-not for children, EUR" The
all-abiding dishes for strangers are 'junket
and Devonshire cream"
Junket is eaten with marmalade or lam,
without one or the other of which no
breakfast or supper in England is COM
plete. To make junket take a bowl and
put in dessert spoonful of rum or brandy,
and half teacup of sugar. Heat quart
of milk lukewarm and pour in the bowl
Add dessert spoonful of rennet, and give
the compound couple of sharp STRINGS
when it will be ready for the table.
The milk for Devonshire cream must be
fresh from the COW. Set to-night's milk
by till morning" said comely matron.
ain the morning put it in pan on slow
fire. In time skin the size of the bottom
Of the pan will rise to the top of the milk.
When that happens set the milk in a cool
place till the next morning; then spoon off
the thick cream that has come to the top,
and serve it, leaving the sealded milk be-
low" This is eaten with every other dish
at every meal.