Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-09-13
ROME NEW AND OLD.
The Ancient City of the Caesars Fast
Being Transformed,
ASSUMING MANY MODERN AIRS.
A Street Lined With New Shops, Running
Through the Capital.
NOTED LANDMARKS BEING RIZED

the Caesars, but whether for better or fol
worse will be decided according to the tenn.
permanent OF the observer. Much of the old
world beauty that woke wonder and delight
in the artist, much of the mediavalism as
sociated with history and legend to the
student, has been swept away forever; and
such monuments as remain have been gar
nished and restored to an extent that ha.
materially detracted from their interest, and
dealt deathblows to their picturesqueness.
Right through the capital runs the Via
Nazionale, a modern broad thoroughfare
noisy with the roar of tramcars, and fanked
on each side by brand new shops, with plate
glass windows, bearing familiar advertise.
ments. In its course it passes through
what were once the gardens in which Nero
witnessed the burning of Rome, sweeps close
to the Forum of Trajan, and terminates, at
one end, in the Piazza di Venezia, corner
OF the seventeenth-century palace having
been cut away to give it wider curve.
The houses of the narrow streets
and dark lanes of the Ghetto, run
ming close by the yellow waters
of the Tiber-the quarter set aside by Paul
~. for the Children of Israel-have been
leveled to the ground. The Colosseum has
had some of its arches and arcades restored,
anew stone staircase has been built, its
passages are laid down with cement, its
central space is partially excavated, so that
one sees the dens where, in far off days,
5000 wild animals were kept before being
taken out to be slaughtered in the combats
lasting 100 days, to the delight of all Rome.
But where streets have been razed, and
gardens stood in the city, and waste spots
grass-grown and airy in the suburbs.
stretched toward the joyous freedom of the
fields, new houses have risen. built of red
brick, many storied, glaring, adorned with
stucco, unsubstantial, contrast IN size,
color and architecture to the massive walled,
noble looking, dark hued structures which
they replace or contrast.
ANCIENT BEAUTY LINGERs.
Though the hand of the modern mechanic
is upon the city, says writer in the Lon
don illustrated Ne,os, he cannot quite de-
stroy its beauty and delight, cannot eradi-
cate its old-world charm, or remove the
fascination, subtle and strong, which it
holds for many. For no city in Europe can
present such sight as may be seen toward
sunset from the broad projecting terrace of
the Pincio gardens, where, in days Of yore,
Lucullus and his followers, crowned with
garlands, sated with song, and made wanton
with wine, held high reYels. Immediately
beneath the terrace is the sun-baked Piazza
del Popolo; in its center, raised high above
a fountain fed by water-spouting lionesses,
stands the obelisk brought from Heliop-
oils, and dedicated to the sun. A little
nothward is city gate erected in the six
teenth century; and close beside it, yellow
walled and time-stained, is the Augustinian
monastery where Luther was lodged during
his visit to Rome. Reyond, il a tangled
network, lies the city, mass of buildings
intersected by intricate streets; maze Of
towers, steeples, domes and belfries OF
churches, terraced roofs OF houses, colon
naded fronts of temples, while distant yet
distinct, rising above all on its imperial
height, is st. Peters its great dome looming
black and massive against lurid sea Of
crimson light.
Suddenly the sun sets, and bell close by
rings out the first notes of the Ave Maria,
when from every church throughout the
length and breadth of Rome comes a wild
peal Of answering chimes in every tone, in
every key; pausing now as if to take rest,
beginning anon; one heard in advance, the
others Ginning in chorus like the muttered
responses of monks in their choir, until at
last they gradually cease, final strokes like
faint eches coming from some white-walled
convent or distant monastery in the wide
and lonely campagna beyond, across which
darkness gathers rapidly.
SIGHTS WORTH SEEING.
Night comes quickly; but if, when the
visitor has dined to his satisfaction, and
moon sails in the sky, he had best betake
himself to the Colosseum and see its massive
arches showing white in the light, or buried
deep in the shadows, its desolation manifest,
its silence unbroken save for the rustling of
leaves upon the trees outside, only the story
of its magnifcence and triumphs, the scenes
of its tragedies and bloodshed remaining.
Or, if he does not care to travel so far afeld,
he can walk to the fountain of Treyi. As
he approaches by narrow and winding
streets the Palazzo Poll. against which it
is erected, he will hear sounds of rushing
waters. Its source rises far away in the
Campagna, whence it was first conducted by
Marcus Agrippa by means of subterranean
channel IA miles in length, to supply his
baths at the Pantheon, years before Christ
was born. But nearly Is centuries later
Nicholas V. had the main stream brought
here, where it gives daily supply of about
13. 900, 900 cubic feet OF water. Neptune,
standing in the center, stems the torrent,
while figures of Health and Fertility are at
his right and at his left.
It is protected from the street by broad
low parapet, where groups sit and chatter
and smoke cigars. Here gossip the master
of the cafe beyond, Ill which faint yellow
fame burns at the feet of Madonna, a
peasant in his velvet knee breeches, colored
sash and wide-brimmed sombrero, who has
Just come from the mountains with his herd
of goats, a workman in his shirt sleeves and
modern-cut clothes, who descants on the
taxes under which they groan, the high price
of provisions,
THE DIFFICULTIES OF LIFE
as compared with the easy-going times in
which his fathers lived. Steps lead to
gurgling and splashing waters sparkling in
the moonlight; and down these women trip
with quaint-shaped earthen pitchers,
which, in returning. they balance on their
heads, their figures upright, their move
ments graceful, their tread light as tawns;
and like the fawn's are their eyes-dark,
lustrous, gentle. Unhappily, they have
abandoned the graceful costume with which
we see italian women clad in pictures, on
the operatic stage, and occasionally in the
dress, colored velvet corset, short striped
skirt amber necklace, and big earrings are
now only worn in Rome by those who sit in
groups on the old yellow stone steps lead
ing to the Triniata de Monte, posing for the
benefit at artists who pass the way, bent for
the French Academy.
The Corso and the principal thorough
fares are peopled by those clad in French
or English fashion, the lace heoddresses of
women, the voluminous cloaks, once uni
worn by men, being things of the
past. But occasionally color and pictur-
esqueness are given to the crowd as one
encounters nuns in flowing garments of
white, red or blue, and Capucini monks in
cowl and sandals, rosary beads hanging