St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-09-14

hind and on the shoulders has ten
dency to givesthe effect of height. A
stout woman should never wear short
Sacque. A mantle of some soft material
snbdued in color but light in texture,
should be selected in preference to a
close-fitting coat or jacket.
The elong ated folds of the mantle
lend smoothneSS and unduIating flow
to the body. She should never wear
double skirts or tunics or dresses with
large spra wing patterns, as they ap-
pear to detract from the height and give
the impressi OH of fullness and breadth.
Large hats are generally becoming to
those who have full, large faces, and if
the hat-brim curves upwards it adds
apparently to the height. White or very
light colors should never be worn by
the stout; they greatly increase the APP
parent size. Very large plaids should
also be eSchewed. Small checks and
plaidS may sometimes be becoming.
Light OF dark people who are afflicted
with bad skins and notified complex
ions should never wear solid colorS near
the face. The flowers on hat or bonnet
should also be small and mixed. A clear,
solid color is too great contrast and
brings out the imperfectionS
of the face which Subdued. indefinite
mixed color would throw into shadow
and sometimes render almost invisible.
Black and white, warm browns and cool
grayS and drabS and dark sage green's
are especially becoming to the charm
ing matrOnS who have glided into the
autumnal years of life.
There is smack of truth in the
maxim, las a woman grows old the
dress material should increase in rich
ness as it decreases in brightness, and
her gown should be more simple in cut
and fashion," Lace is essential 10 the
dress OF every woman over forty years
of age who desires to dress becOmingIy.
Jabots, ruches and dainty falls of fine
lace have an eXquisitely sOftening effect
on the complexion. This airy texture,
in which light and shadow can so beau
tlfully shift. subdues roughness of the
skin and harshness of outline.
Old Dame Nature is the prime teacher
of these charming articles. Note her
fine effects with mist and cobwebS, with
iace-like moss on sturdy oaks, the bloom
on the peach and huckleDerry. An
artist declares that she produces her
finest coloring with dust and age.
Laces and soft mulls throw this same
beautiful glamour over the face, and
they are a fit and charming accompani-
ment of gray hair, which is wonderful
softener of defective compilations.
The stout siSterhood have one telling
advantage over those of their own sex
who are too thin-they look much
younger. Their faces have the rounded
curves of youth, and with more atten-
ton to the color, texture, fit and cut of
their gowns their figures will not be-
tray their faces.
The body should first receive atten-
ton and then its covering. Everybody
may not have the unspeakable and in
imitable charm of carriage and action of
naturally graceful woman, but there
are certain ruleS of exercise and of
dress which undoubtedly add ease, ele-
gance and beauty to the woman who
wishes to achieve grace-and the result
is worthy of the effort. The fatty alb
dOminal accumulations that beset many
as they advance i'll years may be de-
posed to some extent by proper breath
ing.
By breathing properly the muscle
separating the chest and abdomen is eX-
ercised and fatty accretionS prevented.
Tight lacing, however, interfereS with
the easy play of this muscle and the
flesh appears obstrusively. Stout peo-
pie would appear better If they gave
more attention to the way they
carry themselves. The Apollo Belvi-
dere is the finest model for everybody,
fat or thin. There is the beautiful bow
at the waist-not at the shoulders-3he
protruding-and the whole figure an
erect picture of spirited grace and free
dom. With a straight back, chest
lifted to keep the form from sagging
down and the shoulders from curving
out and by allowing an easy play of the
waist muscles, woman can apparently
decrease her size by many pounds.