davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

unsightly. Unless she is thin to pain
full degree, her gown wrinkles all about
her waist and hips, and she looks very
dumpy and untidy."
With petulant toss of her head. she
continued:
''You cannot look smart and have a
pretty figure without stays. 1t is i'm
possible. Mrs. Langtry would not be
charming at all without them, and she
knows it, / have heard she slept in her
corsets, like poor Marie Antoinette, but
should not like that"
CoRSETS MADE TO ORDER.
There are four or five establishments
in New York where corsetS are made to
order by measure. These are patron
lied by the fashionable set, very natur-
ally. At one of these stores Oh lower
Fifth avenue bright little American
called the madame chatted about stays.
''We make a half-doZen different
shapes, you know. because some women
have long waists, some people like long
corsetS. and some with flexible and stiff
busts. But no matter how woman is
shaped, she generally wants corset
that will make her waist long. By that
mean the length of the body down to
the waist. ;"
A little pile of white satin and pink
kAOpOhoS hiaiSOOiiC anu
lace lay upon small table, and pretty
French girl sat by it studying a small
chart. Her materials, so the madam
said, would eventually become corset
for one of the Vanderbilt ladies, the
prettiest and youngest one. The satin
was of very heavy quality, with back
facing of strong linen, and it is manu-
featured especially in France for corsets
Ordinary satin would be useless, as it
has no staying qualities.
The average woman of fashion wears
about six pairs of cOrsets year, and
seldom pays less than IS for each pair.
Many pay as high as S25, and even 800
has been paid for corset made in this
city. The purchaser was from San
Francisco. The corset was of pink
satin, covered with real point-lace and
fastened with silver-plated steels.
HOW TO MAKE A CORSET FIT PER
FECTLY.
ITO make a corset fit perfectly" ex-
claimed the little madam, requires art
in measurement. We have a French
man here to do the cutting and fitting.
The first measurement is the length of
the waist from the neck, then the
distance over the hips from the waist
line; next we measure the bust across
the breast, then at the waist, two inches
above the waist, one below, three below,
and where the edge of the corset will
be. The corset is cut and boned and is
then tried on and fitted
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

always on the point of escaping from
its pins and of rolling down her Shout
ders. She therefore wished to have her
hair show both IN front and behind.
Having expressed this desire. she seated
herself before the large mirror and |
placed upon her bright auburn locks the
frame of the longed-for hat. 1t was at
this moment only an unpromis-
ing compound of crinoline and
WIRE, but patiently and carefully,
with many changes, and the most mi
mute alterations, often stepping back to
study the effect, did my best to adapt
the eccentric head-dress to the actress
striking face. In two sittings the frame
was outlined. 1t was then given to the
straw sewer. who at once copied the
model. Then we began to look for
trimmings that would make the hat
harmonIze with the gown. There was
really an embarrassment of choice, but
we succeeded at last"
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

always doing it. They are ironed off,
washed off. and pulled off until l de-
spair. l seem to shed buttons at every
step.'' MAKE use of these two hints
when you are sewing them on, then,
and see if they make any difference.
When you begin, before you lay the
button on the cloth put the thread
through so that the knot will be on the
right side. That leaves it under the
button and prevents it from being
ironed or worn away, and thus begin
ming the loosening process.
''Ihen, before you begin sewing,lay a
large pin across the button so that all
your threads will go over the pin. After
you have finished filling the holes with
thread draw out the pin and wind your
thread round and round beneath the
button. That makes compact stem to
sustain the possible pulling and wear of
the buttonhole. 1t is no exaggeration
to say that my buttons never come off,
and Pm sure yours won't if you use my
method of sewing"
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
IN MORNING ROBES,
A Glimpse Into the Richest
Boudoips To Be Found In
New York.
Feminine Celebrities AS They
Appear When Receiving
Their Guests.
Sweet Wine, Turkish Coffee.
and Fragrant Cigarettes
for Breakfast.
Mrs. Potter's Bed Of Violets
and Her Delicate Per-
fumed Gowns.
Society's very latest fad!

Society's very latest fad!
The boudOir transformed into a recep-
ton room.
When Mrs. Frances Hodgson Bur-
nett lived at the Westminster, she was
always lat home" the day she took her
steam bath. This regular reception of
society, sycophants and people
with letters was obligatory rath-
er than conciliatory. Her ply
stefan would not allow her to
go out of doors before the expiration of
twelve hours. and, as she was too much
exhausted to do any work, she
went from the cooling room directly
to her Louis de-some-number-c
douched herself with cologne.
feathered her lips and eve
brows with altar of roses, pulled her
fluffy hair about her temples la Byron.
donned baby blue sarah dress girdled
under the arms with belt of pearl, and
got into bed
All the ladies who called during the
day were uShered into the chamber ana
seated about the luxuriously appointed
couch after pressing the lips and finger
tips of Dearest"
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

1t business wherever l am travelling
to go through the best furnished houses
| can anywhere hear of. You can I'M
derstand it's not always easy to do this,
for people who have rich interior are
always on the watch to guard against
some one copying them. Many a time
l have gone through private house in
overalIs, with kit of tools over my
shoulder. Sometimes it's the painter I
have to 'see,' and once I got access I'M
der pretense of searching a leakage in
the gaspipe. In this way 1 have seen
every handsome interior that is worth
seeing in this country, and while the re-
suits justify the means, [ must confess
that it is not always pleasant to be
closely pursued on tour of inspection
by fiunky having one eye on the silver
and one ON me; still 1 have arrived at
the conclusion that Mr.. Posts house
has the richest interior of any IN
America.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
ELEVENTH COMMANDMENT.
Written for the Globe. |

How much more peace and happiness
Would be the lot of all,
And strength be given us weaker ones
Who are so apt TO fall,
If every one in this bright world,
Qncluding those protesting
To be the servers of the Lord,)
Would only cease DEPRESSING,
From one commandment-not laid down
In Holy Writ. tbs true
do unto others as you would
That they would do to you"
Were this a law compulsory
In every cline and nation,
And could il only be enforced,
Including every station,
Thaewoman wants, or man can fill
The hypocrite and saint,
All those plumb full of cnssedness
And those without faint.
The high and low. the rich and poor
The Gentle and the jew
do unto others as you would
That they would do to YOU"
A Heaven on earth 'twould surely be
As long as life would last,
And when we finally left this world
And over Jordan passed,
Appeared before the Judge of all
To hear decision rendered.
WHAT feeling of security
AS to Him our work surrendered.
When asked. What did YOU do on earth =
If our answer true could be,
81 did unto my neighbor as
/ would he'd ia to me-"
Jake Adeigh.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

waists. answers every purpose. | have
noticed several society ladies who APP
preciated the convenience of a fash
ion that is quite common in New
York city. Cheapness of toilet is by no
means implied. Think for moment of
the Figaro jacket with belt and buckle.
1t is made of steel or gold cord, and con-
sists of short rounded fronts and trim
ming for the middle of the back united
by a stand-up collar. The jacket is
edged with finely cut bead drops and
hooks into silk loops on faille Fran
caise bodice, the hooks being seven on
invisibly. The belt is X inches wide.
and faStens with handsome buckle to
match the trimming.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

"Most of our customers wear their
corsets over silk undervest. All of
their petticoats are placed under the
corset, so as not to mar the lines of their
hips, and perfect-itting corset-coyer
over the corset. Some very wealthy
women dispense altogether with the
corset-cover and have all of their gowns
lined in white silk. They always want
extremely handsome materials for their
stays, though. when they do that"
The little stays fashioned for one of
the Vanderbilt matrons were to have
quilting of real Valenciennes lace about
the top and an insertion of the lace be-
meath the quilting, through which
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

dresses, street suits and wraps, tea
gowns, furs, hats, bonnets, shoes and
silk underwear are brought to her by
LADIES' maids and sold for song. The
owner may be going IN mourning, going
abroad, or in such straitened circum-
stances as to regard few dollars as
fortune.
Brand new gowns and bonnets are
daily received from ladies who are pen
nileSs. They have unlimited credit,
but to get spot cash orders are sent to
the modiste, and as soon as filled their
garments are disposed of to this female
Pagan for tenth of their cost. Legiti-
mate sales of secondhand, slightly
worn clothing are made by economical
women, who receive an extra dollar or
two for the waistband or bonnet lining
bearing the name OF some good house.
Nine-tenths of the sellers are carriage
people, and of these 90 per cent demand
spot cash.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
THEATER WAISTS.
"A Tailor Who Is Glad to See The m
GroWingin Favor.

LADIES' tailor tells
the st. Louis Globe
Democrat the most sem
Sible innovation that l
have noted for a long
time is the growing ia
vor of theater waists for
ladies. Elabora te cos
tunes are crushed by
passing in and out of
the aIsles and in the
narrow chairs of tn e
orchestra and balcony.
This is an unnecessary
sacrifice. as only the
bodice is visible when
the theater cloak is
thrown back. A skirt
of plain black faille
Franchise or silk warp
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
Girls Who Entertain.

''lf were girl. desirous,-as every
young woman is-of being BELLE" said
well known society man to Star re-
porter the other day, II would, beyond
all else, entertain"
land why so?"
because entertaining is more surely
than anything else productive of atten-
ton from men. Even the ugliest girl
will not be wall flower if plenty of
parties are given at her house. You
ones@are not gong out IN soc society yu for
phi]antlIropic or unSelfish motives; it is
merely question with most of them
how much in the way of fun and good
things to eat and drink they can get.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
MRS. PoTTER's STAGE HAT.
The MilIiner Who Made 1t Gives
Its History.

''Do you wish," said the milliner, 'tto
hear the history of the hat l made for
Mrs. James Brown Potter? 1t is a typi-
cal case" And thereupon she narrated
the following: ''When the rehearsals
of Camille were begun. Mrs. Potter
came to me to order hat. Now. Ca
mile is nervous woman, fashionable
as to clothes, and above all eccentric.
Eccentricity, then, must be the domi-
nant trait of the hat. But it must also
partake of the individual taste-the
caprice of the actress.
Now, Mrs. Potter knows very we'll
that one of her principal charms is her
wayy, fluffy, reddish hair, which seems
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

1t has been quite a severe struggle to
introduce the color for garments COM.
ing in contact with the flesh, but it has
been accomplished. and the most con-
ventional and refined women wear
black chemises and gowns, corsets, ETC.,
as they have long worn black hose. with
a very dazzling Frenchy and sensational
effect when their sable Fittings are
drawn up about snowy. plump, dimpled
and delicious specimens of womanhood.
A still later fashion is that of matching
the color of the gown, whether for
street or house wear, in every garment
worn beneath it, from the stockings to
the petticoatS.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
Lilies on Linen.

Our linen all comes from Europe, but
the importers here are in the habit of
sending their own designs to the manu.
faeturers abroad. Pond lilies and lilies
of the valley are among the newest pat
terms. For large cloths there is usually
a large center design; the rest may be
in large figures or small to suit the in
dividual taste of the buyer. There is no
particular fashion followed in this re-
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
BLACK UNDERWEAR.
A Bride Whose Whole Outfit Is of
SOmber Hue

LACK is at pres
ent the popular
color for under
wear. and figures
! arg Ell Y in all
bridal outfits, one
of which recently
contained not a
single article of
white Or bright
lingerie. Bl a C k
laees. guipure and
Chantilly decor
ate them; fine
tuckingS a n d
dainty ee dl g.
w ork are dis
played whenever
possible, and the
laceS are fulled
On tiny ribbons of
the same somber
hue,
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

in rose pink. with little pale pink and
white dogwood roses embroidered about
the top.
Black corsets are no longer fashion
able except for people in mourning. 1t
is fad among the uitra-fashionable set
to wear mourning underwear with their
black gowns, and entire suits of it made
up in black Surrah are worn with the
black corset.
The average ball bodice is of so light
texture that most dresSmakerS insist on
the corsets being of the same tint. A
pair of lue satin stays beneath a pink
gown makes the pink lose its rosy tint,
and if little rent is made in the bodice
the effect is much worse.
A SOCIETY BELLIES STOCK OF STAYS.
81 have eighteen pairs of stays this
winter, and they are all perfect" a So
ciety girl said at an afternoon tea the
other day, when she was exchanging
condolences with the hostess. ''You see.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
Isabelle Oroubart,s mornin, ON

Isabelle Urquhart's morning. guests
are received in mirror-paneled cham
Der, upholstered in pomegranate pink
silk, with dado of nut-brown plush
and narrow frieze, having for the
unit of design a prOmegranate
flower. The drapery of the
side walls is smooth, but the cell
ing is plated wheel. fnvisibly hung
above the slender Furnished bedstead
is an octagonal canopy from which
lace curtains fall in graceful folds.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
FOR PERFECT HAPPINESS.
Take a pair of sparkling eyes,

Take pair of sparkling eyes,
Hidden, ever and anon,
In mercifui eclipse
Do not heed their mild surprise
Having passed the Rubicon.
Take pair of rosy lips;
Take figure trinity planned
Such as admiration whets,
(Be particular in this);
Take tender little hand,
Fringed with dainty fingerettes,
Press it-in parenthesis;
Take all these. you lucky man
Take and keep them, if you canl
Take pretty little cot
Quite miniature affair
Hung about with trellised vina
Furnish il upon the spot
With the treasures rich and rare
I've endeavored to define.
Live to love and love to live
You will ripen at your ease.
s Growing On the sunny side
Fate has nothing more 10 give.
You're dainty man to please
If you are not satisfied.
Take my counsel, happy man;
Act upon it, if you can
w. S. Gilbert, in 1.-The Gondoliers."
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

be a profiigate, and not possess the first
instinct of gentleman, He may. as
you say. dance divinely. but even for
partner in round dance more than
that is necessary. Ny little girl. dane
ing indiseriminately will teach you
to forget how to blush, and with that
knowledge departs one of your greatest
charms. Dance, sing and be merry, but
remember, not only does the world
judge us by the company we keep, but
just as you and l are made better and
nobler by being with those who are
true and good, so we are insensjbly
made meaner and poorer in heart and
brain when we consort with those of
less degree in morals.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

| thought might as well have enough
to match the colors of all my gowns.
My lavender one is sweet. 1t is covered
with gauZe and embroidered in Parma
violets. and If it just had little shoulder
straps it would make ball bodice pref
tier than any possess. Then l have
one i'll sea-green, with fringe of grasses
about the top instead of lace, and my
crimson satin is embroidered i'll black
bPadS.N
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

other front is full from the shoulder,
without darts, and Tapped over to the
opposite side at the edge of the short
bodice, ending in a cluster of plaits
under long or rosette bow of ribbons,
fitted belt, which fastens with safety
hooks, or large buckle. The contrast
ing material appears again as cuffs and
collar, or these may be of velvet, and
panel of the plain front fabric appears
on the side of the skirt like it was
continuation eff the bodice portion.
Flat, gathered and plated panels are
all worn.
Buttons are rarely used, except bone
designs on the plainest of everyday
gowns. L find that safety hooks answer
the purpose of secure fastening,
though select dressmakers use the ordi-
nary hooks, and buttonhoIe large eyes
with twist to prevent their slipping.
The jacket fronts cover a multitude of
sins in the way of worn places around
the arm sizes. These are round in
zouave style separating over a full, fat,
round or pointed vest. or the jacket is
cut little longer and wider on the
front edge and made to meet over the
bust under knot of ribbon, buckle,
pretty clasp, etc.; holding the edges in
a few plaitS like it had been gathered
up in the bands. The full coat sleeves
gathered at the top rexuire Que layer of
sheet Wadding between the lining and
outer material across the top and about
three inches deep to keep the gathers
standing out.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02


Venise lace, put
on so that the
deep points would
meet at the waist.
A little flounce of
the lace outlined
the upper and
lower part.
The corset made
by him for a we'll
known Washing
ton beauty was of
yellow satin, en-
,broidered in pur-
,ple pansies in silk.
Many New York
women wear SIM
liar embroidered
cOrsets. For a de-
butante this Win
ter to wear at a
New Years ball
was made q najr
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
FINERY SOLD FOR A SONG.
A Curious Side Light on the Gilt
ter of New York Life.

HERE is a woman
up in West Fifty
Fourth street, ac-
c0sding to the New
York World, who
does a thriving bus
mess in the sale and
exchange Of what
she calls ladies' mis-
a O n N " Dn1,tHr
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

for two or three hours each day of slice
of raw Ito keep off wrinkles ;applica-
ton during an equal term of mask
composed of the white of eggs, honey
and barley paste, to preSeve the firm
ness Of the skin: vigorous rubbing of
the eyelids two or three times
a day with sponge dipped
In rose water mixed with
whisky, to preserve the brilliancy of
the eyes: a covering of cold cream for
the hands before retiring, and keeping
on gloves during sleep: rest of from
ten to eleven hours, because early rising
reddenS the eyes and mars the lines of
the face; careful avoidance of all cares
and every subject of an exciting nature;
never to get angry; constant calm, for
tears are the destruction of charms, the
floods in which beauty is drowned;
smiles eternal, even in the teeth of dis
agreeable things; exercise on the velOc-
ipede.''
Mrs. Langtry, so this correspondent
says, takes tremendous cold bath
every morning, after which she gets
herself shampooed to preserve the fresh
ness of her skin; and Mrs. Frank Les
lie draws the same effect out of her
bath. into which she puts an extract
from the branches of certain pine trees.
The mask of raw veal and the baths are
the essential.
What bore!
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

HE handSomeSt in
teriors in this coun-
try" said a man the
other day, w b o
ought to know all
about it, "are to be
found in the New
port residence of
Mr.. Post, Don't ask
me to describe it. l
couldn't. Selling.as
L do, the finest goods
which are made in
thic oOuptry I m alya
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
In Honor of Kate Field

A summer petticoat, dedicated to Kate
Field, has been introduced to early buy
ers who are making I'D their Florida
trousseaux. The stuff used is light
weight silk, in variety of colors, made
on yoke with gathered back, and all
along the hem is Greek border worked
in bullion threads and steel beads to
hold il down.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
THE ARTS OF BEAUTY.
The Startling Formula Set Forth
by London Correspondent.

ERE is the start
| i n e formula
which a London
correspondence
the Courier DIES
EtatS-Unis has
taken from a lit
tie book just
publish e d in
that city to teach
ladies the arts
of beauty:
Every morn
ing a prolonged
nold bath; every
night before re-
firing the same
exercise: a COM
plete Turkish
oath on ce q
week : applica-
tinn tO tho fana
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

silk. Between the two Innings was to
be sprinkled violet sachet powder, to
keep the corset always delicately per-
fumed.
Mrs. Bradley-Martin is one of the
women of fashion who has all her wear
ing apparel direct from Paris. Her
corsets are made by famous Paris
manufacturer, who also makes for
Langtry and for most of the famous
London beauties. His aim is to make
the waist round and not oval in shape,
and so make it appear smaller than
it is.
Mrs. Langtry's waist over her corset
measures twenty-five inches, yet it is so
rounded thatit looks smaller.
THE DUCHESS OF FIFE'S CORSET.
The cheapest corset made by this
man costs $25. He made one for the
young Duchess of Fife. 1t was of
white satin. covered with real nnint de
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

hat, placed it on the floor, and, with a
newspaper handy, Went to- work to do
up her hair. The woman rolled wads of
paper, and in ten minutes she had her
head dotted with cur-papers, and ap-
parently unaware of the quiet fun
everybody in the car was having. The
couple left the train at Black Rock sta
ton, and as they left the car the mirth
of the passengers found vent, and
everybody roared. The young lady
blushed, then smiled and looked as if
she was satisfied, having got her hair in
shane
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

IL E n | ct a
bright idea | al
ways want to pass
it along" said a
lady. as she sat
watching a young
girl sewing; do
your buttons ever
come off, Lena?"
Ever? THEY'RE
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02
HALF-woRN BAsoUEs.
Making Them Over Is an Easy
Task as Fashions Are Now.

HE draped eff
feet given to
bodice fronts
renders the re-
making of half
worn basques
a comparative
ly easy task. If
the gown is of
plain material
combine it with
a Dead e,
stripes or silk,
and vice versa.
Having o g
trent laid fatty
over the lining
with two darts,
or the fullness
at the waist
caught in tiny
,Alaitc and tho
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-02-02

would run the narrow cherry ribbons,
tying in rosettes In front.
Over hundred small whalebones
were to be fitted in the corsets, and
while the outside was of the white
satin. the inside was to be of cherry