Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-18
Chat on Eaahion.

Chat on Fashion
While the sun persistently continues 10 dis.
pense summer heat, autumn fancies in dress
seem unreasonable, and the windows of the dry
goods merchants and their bargain counters IA.
Vor the illusion that the summer is not ended
and that the harvest time for summer shopping
is now. In these warm days summer garments
are somewhat anxiously examined and hall
these well-worn friends will desert her before
the season is over. Still, ladies returning from
frocks, and the merchants at home have already
opened cases of late purchases. The
earlier autumn costumes are princi:
readily adapts Itself to all the exigencies
of travel, and is serviceablo for the many expe-
ditions that fall to housekeepers lot
AS the fail advances, gray in all its warmer
tints is manifestly popular color. The shades
are darker than in summer, stone and iron grays
G0ntending With blash gray and certain pink
Many OF the fall serges have very elaborate
borders. These borders horizontally
around the foot OF the skirt. A portion of the
deep border also is used for the vest of the
bodice, while q narrow edging border is used for
finishing the neck, the sleeves and the bodice
drapery. This deep garniture is from half q
foot to one foot in depth, is some OF it in ap-
plique embroidery Of satin and cording, and on
other patterns is in horizontal stripes of astra-
chan and satin.
Later in the season camel's hair will dispute
for precedence. The newer reaves very
hairy, the hairs sometimes being an inch long
lying loose on the surface, favorite color in
this fabric is brown and the new fawn brown
promises 10 be very recherche.
The foreshadowlng of sleeves for cloth and
other heavy material is close sleeve that is
modeI ately low on the shoulder, close over the
upper arm and smooth and tight over the wrist.
1t may be finished by velvet or cloth cuffs made
20 lap slightly and hook or button close to the
hand, this is especially lady-like when finished
with narrow edging OF very full lace.
In bodice arrangement the vest is to play a
conspicuous part; 1t will be for winter what the
blouse and shirt front has been for summer at
NnCNa aAfsI n- 10.
velvet. slightly fulled beneath the side plaits SO
as to droop in horizontal, broken folds, or laid
in to form point, when of fancy trimming or
brocade goods.
Folds OF material and passementerie may be
tastefully used in trimming bodices. and here a
word of caution cannot be miss. In trimming
the front is apt to get it all and the back to be
left unadorned. Now, as shoulder blades are
sOaelimes obtrusive. it might be well to cast a
backward glance and in adjusting folds try to
have q tasteful back as well as front.
There is also another part of the dress which
amateurs and village dressmakers are liable to
undervalue. The Importance OF well fitted
foundation skirt cannot be over estimated
This skirt must be in four pieces-frout back
ard two side cores. The front width should be
twehty,t TWO lnones across at the hem and gored
10 half as much-eleven inches-at the waist
line. When ready to plat IL on to the cord
which has supplanted the belt, the little fullness
at the top must be fitted into the figure with
three small darts about four inches long
one exactly in the center and one on each side
and the surplus material folded in in these darts
Is
may seem, straight widths, half q yard across
at both top and bottom. In being fitted on, a
dart directly over the hips is taken up in each at
the top and the material again cut away Such
little row Of fitted darts each side the front
should make the skirt lie fat and smooth to the
figure as far as four inches back of the front
seams, from which place what is left of the side
cores Is gathered into the belt with the back
width. This back width is also straight piece
twenty six inches wide, and at the top is gath
cred into not less than eight and one-half
inches. Extremely wide hips require more
width here. The skirt should, therefore, meas
To return to dress fabrics and costumes, a
very pretty costume for fall excursions is of
gray Barney tweed, and is made with plated
skirt, q yacht corsaee opening on a white silS
skirt, striped with hair lines OF black. The
jacket to be worn with this is lined with ma
with black birds and tulle.
While brown, gray and black are mentioned as
dominant, navy blue is By no means pssse color,
neither will it be SO long the Princess of Wales
and the Empress of Austria continue to order
dresses of this color. This color in flannel COM
oined with white, or In cloth trimmed with gold
passementerie makes an elegant or serviceable
gown as best belts the requirement In flannel
the skirt is plainly made, the back drapery
forming q border all around Theiacket to wear |
with this Is loose fitting in front with small roll
collar invisibly fastened, that opens over a |
blouse of pale blue silk with an embroidered |
shield shaped shirt front.
For trimming, feather bands Of all colors are /
to be used High corsages win have q feather
band around the throat. and low evening bod |
ices will be bordered with feathers around the |
neck and armholes. Black cprled ostrich bands |
ere used on light colored gowns, or cream old |
blue, pale pink. yellow and red. MANY articles
are made wholly OF fes.hers-vests, collars. pei
crimes, stoles. cuffs and mutfs
Plain colors in hues and princess effects in emf |
ere always genteel. and give the wearer a lady
ike appearance, but plainness and smoothuess
in dress es well as in landscape grows weari-
some. tits, therefore, well perhaps that piaids
and loopings in draperies have also their place. |
Large plaids in rich and beautiful shades are
shown. and find ready sale. The variety is i'm |
mense.
in tartan and novelty arrangements, from q
quarter OF an inch to sixteen inches square,
which are presumably 10 be made up on tee
OF me materials are fifty inches wide and all Of
. fine texture and reasonable price. Red and
yellow lines appear prominently in the plsids-
and iRyisSbls checks in English chsviots and