Nevada County picayune., 1890-01-22

of the cross-piece 0 screw common 75 cent spirit level 2. so that when stands on a level floor the air bubble shall show level, and its middle be the middle of q 0. Change the tri- to be sure your spirit level is ex- actly parallel with the bottom of b c. Then if you want to graduate 1t raise h.-inch at q time, leaving c resting on the floor, and mark the brass of the spirit level for each quarter and half inch up to two or three inches. Then raise in the same way and graduate the other side. Before the groove is cut in the bottom of the ditch this span level may be applied all along, and show the exact fall per rod. Then tho groove cutter can take out humps, and the level test it's work. b is half a rod long, and so i4-inch fall for its length makes 1E-inch fall per rod, and so on. Never be content unless your level shows some fall towards your outlet.
 The more uniform the fall the better. If you know for example that your whole fall is only one-half inch per rod, you must keep your grade down to about that rate, not varying, or you will have trouble. Beginning at the lower end the tendency of new hand is to Hose grade" that iS work towards the sur face. The span level will help prevent this. Instead of the spirit level g plumb bob may be hung by a line from it (see tgure), So that when b c is level the line shall come opposite the middle of d e. Its scale may be graduated and marked as in the case of the spirit level.
 How TO LAY THE TrLES.-The groove should be cut so that the tiles will fit without rolling, and shall touch bottom all the way. Different sized scoops should be used for different sized tiles. Lay the tiles from the outlet up stream, look through each tile to see that 1t is clear of Instructions, and lay it so that 1t will not rock or wabble, i. e., curved up, and not down in the middle, if curved at all. Chuck it up tight against the preceding tile, and then step forward upon it and lay the next. I prefer to stand in the ditch, lay each tile by hand, and stand on it to press 1t firmly to it's place. AsSort the tiles in scattering them along the ditch so that the harder burned (smallerl ones shall come to- gether, and not he mixed in among the softer-burned ones But lay none that are not hard burned enough to give clear, metallic ring when struck with hammer and lay no cracked or broken ones. For functions with laterals get from the kiln, if possible, main tiles with functions formed, or at least holes cut for functions. If you have to cut with trowel, use great care and secure great perfection.
 How TO COVER THE TuEs.-First, stand in the ditch when the tiles are laid, and with the ditching-spade shovel in the fine clay (the subssoil last dug out, and see that it rattles or fills clear down on both sides of the tiles. Tramp very thoroughly with the feet as you fill, until you have filled in some eight inches deep, The rest may be plowed in by running d very long evener and long inside lines, and having one horse on each side of the ditch. If possible, the field drained in the fall should haye been tiled in hood crops all summer. The soil and subsoil are more moist early in the fall and dig far more easily than when in turf, or even in wheat or oats. Still further, the filling by team Is far easier, and the blowing of the field for the next crop will efface all signs of the ditch.