The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-06-01
HHIr ToMEN ARE WEARING ABROAD.
Glance at the Costumes at the earosvenor
Gallery Reception - The New Fabrics
and the New Colors for Gowns-Bonnets.

| A Glance at the Costumes at the Grosvenor
| Gallery Reception - The New Fabrics
and the New ColOrs for Gowns-Bonuets.
The opening OF the Royal Academy or OF the
| Grosvenor Gallery. is always an occasion OF i'm
| posing display in Dress and fashion Is quite as
| eagerly criticised and admired as art itself.
Among the impressive toilets worn at the re-
| cent Exhibition was q tan-colored silk. trimmed
with bands OF jeweled embroidery In topaz
tints. The skirt was deeply wrought with the
| sparkling decoration. and the bonnet con-
sisted OF bands Of rolled velvet OF darker
| shade tan. with marvel ued double stocks
| in the extreme 'front.' arranged as a coronal
| Tan gloves wero accompanied with boots OF
| precisely the same kind and shade OF leather.
Mrs Humphrey Ward was attired in q strik-
| ing and harmonious combination OF mauve
and dull green. and Miss Phyllis Broughton
wore q dress of gray cloth and velvet, fastened
with brooch flashing her name in diamonds
and frightened with distinctive beauty with a
bunch OF glowing carnations in the Glrdle
Another dress which created quite n sensation
was OF dark vivid mauve CLOTH bordered all
about the edges with little wheels wrought In
gold finished with girdle about the waist
fashioned Of gold wheels. and sleeves caught
up on the shoulder with Louis Seize knots in
gold embroidery. The hat was OF creamy Tus-
can straw. with q profusion OF cOwslps upon
the brim
Two slight young girls in simple dresses re-
vealed the possibilities OF black and white for
unique and striking effect The dresses were
OF black cloth. with white sleeves and white
Medici collars and vests the latter crossed by
zouaves OF black velvet embroidered with
white silk. One particularly pleasing gown OF
mingled simplicity and elegance had q closely
fitting skirt Of gray and white lowered ben-
galne cut In deep points half way to tho
waist and trimmed with white scroll braid,
the bodice folded over vest OF the pleatcd
silk, and fastened in some way. known only to
the woman who wore 1t, under the arms. and
had full sleeves with deep white cuffs.
Gray and heliotrope seemed to have ingra-
tiated themselves very decidedly in pu blic ia
vor, and Eiffel" red was much In prominence,
with all Its pie'r rose and terra Gotta relatives
One gown. indeed.was OF flaming red cashmere.
striped narrowly with light green velvet, and
was worn with an immense lace hat weighed
down with whole garden OF Toses; and
tweed. liecked with red, mad wide bands OF red
by toque OF tartan silk and a poppy-red para
SOL Velvet sleeves and Hover bonnets were
conspicuous by their absence except In iso-
lated cases; but almost every woman wore
real flowers, conventionally arranged, but Gu
riousy mixed as to color and kind. and care
lessly thrust In girdlo or bodice.
Married ladies' are wearing great deal OF
black over color. especially in guipure piece
laoo--not the fiouncing. The approved choice
IN patterns Is tue coarse meshed lace. either
plain o. figured with large spots. The trans
parent fabric is not hemmed. but bordered at
the edge with narrow black velvet drawn
through the meshes in straight rows or in Van
dykes. The silk petticoat beneath may beof
any becoming color and Dordered with ruche
or frilling.
A color combination rejoicing in novelty
which is much in vogue this season is COM
priScd OF two coloTs which formerly rarely
smiled as they met. 1t IL only the persuasive
tact OF the true artist that establishes hnr-
ImIoni9us relations between them, for they have
little IN common. and are yellow and gray.
Felix has recently used them az n medium TO
express ono OF his happiest inspirations. Tho
materials used by this master In the art OF
thistle design. The brooade Ia revealed in n
panel at the side the yellow falling over il on
cascade; belt OF yellow and gold at tho
caught with an ornament. But the charm of
the effect was due to the carefully selected
SHADES used In the two colors,
10 old rose idealized into delicate beauty ana
70 PARTICULARLY enectiye In velvet which ma
lerlal lS now SO much used for petticoats Of
gowns designed Tor Important dress occasions
, In wash dresses the newest materials ara tho
thlck WHITE duck Apd heavy linen used Tor
mems Waistcoats. They lend themselves rand
ny 70 tho plain style Of Skirs so much In vogue
anu are accompanied by smart little LouisN
vests OF thinner material In white or colors
crepe cloth Is useful fabric In cotton and
white sateen is considerably employed. and
Win excellent effect. Those peculiar to
tuIs season laie open-Work stripes, like