The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-12-14
THESTYLE FOR THEMEN
What Is Most Fashionable in the
Line Of Fancy Neckwear.

TAHERE appears to be movement
XIX, afoot to popularze the De Joinvlle
J1sS scarfs. They have been exhibited in
the windows OF several of the prominent
avenue stores at the labeled price of 81
each. This would seem to indicate the in
tention of tho retailers to foster the growth
of the feeling for self-tied scarfings.
Moreover, it verifes what has been chron-
icled herein before as one OF the pointers for
men who would be abreast of the fashion,
able times-that there was an increasing
percentage Of buyers who were acquiring
the knack of folding their own straight neck
wear into the various knots and bows of
the current vogue.
The De Joinville, with its silken tribu-
taries and variations in the form, the fold
over knots and the irregular foldings, is of
course the most difficult to make, as it is
admittedly the ultra-dstingue soaring of
the neckwear vocabulary.
That this richest of all the scarfs has at
tanned the degree of popularity that will
warrant its presentation at popular prices
has undoubtedly been brought about by the
introduction during the past two seasons of
the simple once-over scarf is very reason
able deduction. While this last-named is the
simplest of all the knottiDgs it has suggested
the De Joinville so strongly that many of
those who easily mastered 1t have perSe-
vered with the intricacies of the DE Joinville
fold until they have become proficient vota-
ries.
This, at all events, is the theory based
upon personal observation, evidenced by one
Of the shrewdest among the high-class re-
tail furnishers of Gotham.
This expert declares himself not at all ap-
prehensive of the reduction of the price Of
these hitherto cOstiiest Of all goods in the
neckwear realm within the reach of popular
trade, believing that an experience with the
cheaper qualities will bring about an en-
lightenment as to the real economy involved
the longer service and better appearance that
it gives one and the same time.
This preferential feeling that is gaining
much Roadway for the tieable goods by no
means menaces the extinction Of the made
up articles. On the contrary, 1t necessitateS
policy with regard to them that will be
the strongest bulwark Of their continuance.
With the settled soaring having the first
call, so to speak, it will naturally be the en-
deavor OF the scarf-makers to construct the
possible Ana herein, indeed. lies the FEAST
bility of every style Of made-up neckwear
that was ever put upon the market.
1t is not only cardinal principle, but it is
well-verified axiom that no made-up style
was not OF form that could he made out of
the straight tie by the adept adjuster.
Otherwise the effect was that of mere ag-
| generations of fabric, effeminate and vul-
| gar in its striving for decorative effect and
the utter absence of the utilitarian element.
The practiced eye will always discern the
difference between self-tied and an ordi-
| nary made-np four-in-hand. There is some
| thing on the meshing and soft massing of
the fabric in the original that gives to it a
superior richness. But it Is possible in the
| art Of scarf-naking, as it now exists, to get
| article, and as the self-tied scarf Is. after
| all, the model, does it not stand to reason
| that the customer who cannot tie his own
scarf wants to get as close semblance to
that effect as possible? And will not the
manufacturer, that notes such conclusion
and follows the precepts thereof, do that
| which is not only most reasonable in theory
| but most fruitful of results?
|
1t is the same with the De Joinville and its
| prototype, the puff scarf. The DE JOinville
| that can be the most closely initiated results
in the best kind Of a made-up article. The
| pretty and impossible puff scarfs are not
nearly as rich looking as the plainly folded,
/ heavy lush-lika effects in fine fabrics that
| seem to have been tied out of one piece.
1t is for this reason, perhaps, that the
monarch of all scarfdOm Is the irregularly
folded Burlington, or extra-size De Joinyille,