, 1890-09-18
What Is Worn in Paris.

NeW 1Ofk sun dlScOurseS aB follows
on the early autumn fashions: Most
OF the new serge gowns are made
with plain skirts with one row of
braid about the hem. Gold, silver,
red, black and white, which Is the
latest tint used, are all employed,
and whatever the color 1t must be
matched in the tint Of the braiding
on the vest or the shirt worn In its
place. A striking serge of navy
blue has a narrow rim Of scarlet
braid about its edge, scarlet silk
shirt and jaunty little jacket faced
with the same silk, and with lapels
buttoned back to show their brill
liant lining in fair weather, but
available in case of need for protect
ing the chest.
A pretty white gown Of thick,
cloth-like flannel has row Of gold
braid round the edge, its bodice
outlined with gold braid, and the
sleevesIperpendiculary striped with
1t. A white yachting coat lined
with gold silk and outlined with
gold braid and a sailor
hat ornament, with gold
braid complete the costume.
Many surprisingly course mate
rinls. rough of service and suggest
i've of horse cloth, are employed
with singularly genteel and dlstin-
quished effect, arising from the con-
viction that none but gentlewoni-
an would dream of affecting them.
Many gowns show spots of con-
trasting color, larger than those seen
last year.
Dainty dresses of light wood ma
terial fancifully made are seen on
the decks of house-boats and the
verandas of summer inns. One
model which is particularly effective
Is a navy-blue skirt hung as plainly
as possible, and surrounded by sew
eral rows of black Russian and gold
braid, the latter double the width of
the former; the short waisted empire
bodice is OF the new turquois blue.
with bands of black and gold round
the front OF the waist and curyinp
in rows about the neck.
Another gown In the same color
80 Di'ShNa III hiOht utib uGuln HI the
side to show panels OF white cloth.
Large gilt eyelet holes are punched
out In the cloth, through which
gold braid Is laced from side to aide
and tied, with gold tags depending.
inc sleeves, which are high and
Iuli at the shoulder, grow narrow at
the wrist, and are slashed to be
iaceo across with gold also. A
white cloth gown has its softly fall.
ing skirt opened In three places,
the edges OF which are bound with
white ribbon and caught down or
buttoned TO the skirt with bright
brass buttons. The full sleeves are
braided with gold, and over the
gathered bodice Is worn white
zouave OF kid edged with small gold
drops.
A reaction is at hand In favor
OF jackets, particularly for morning
wear, and the favorite morning
gowns among Partisan ladies are
skirts OF cambric and muslin and
short Jackets made Of fine wool.
open In front to show a silk shirt OF
contrasting hue, with ruffies down
the 'front.'. Sleeveless jackets of dull
Six, black, dark, blue or crimson,
are worn with pretty effect over
muslin or delaine costumes with
full sleeves. And a little later. on
cool evenings, will be seen hand.
somely braided jackets Of dark blue.
which promises TO be q fayorIte
autumn color. The braiding h
usually OF black, and black silk
sleeves are often used. Greenlsh
gray jackets will be braided with
fawn, pearl gray with lavender. and
stone color with gold.
The materials for the early au-
tumn toilets are light-hued cloth
and flannel, interviewer with coarse
lines OF color III plaids and checks
or different shades of blue, gray. and
mauve, strewn with spots about the
size of a shilling. A fancy for terra
Gotta mixtures is displayed by En-.
glish tailors, but blue In Its various
shades of navy ana Orleans promises
70 be the color par excellence. All
these materials are made up simply.
the jacket bodices fastened with a
double row Of buttons, and the for
reau skirt cut on the cross.
The Jeanne dare frock IL the
fancy OF the moment In Paris, as in
troduced by Sarah Bernhardt Ia the
role of the famous heroine. The
dress Is made of rich material won
derfully brocaded in cleaning clus-