St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1890-04-05
DRESS FOR STOUT WOMEN.
Dress Fabrics and Styles Suitable for Ladie,
Of Plump Figure.

Dress Fabrics and Styles Suitable for Ladic,
Of Plump Figure.
The fashions Of the season-the tailor
sown for the street and princesse dresses
for the house-are particularly becom.
ing to m of full plump figure. he.
cause these gowns may be cut in straight
almost unbrOken lines that add to the
apparent height. or they may be draped
slightly, to counteract any too great
robustness. The tailor bodice for a
round full figure should be of the SIM
plest shape, trimmed either with length.
wise braiding from shoulder to waist
line, or else with a pointed vest Of vel.
vet or Of cloth of q contrasting color.
Its shape should be a coat-basuue, with
sides rather longer than those most used
1t present. extending well over the
hips, in order to take away the short,
square effect, and we'll bOned to the end
Of every seam. In order to give tho
necessary spring over the hips there
should be double side forms in the back.
and the fronts should each have a dart
taken in them quite far back under tho
arms The sleeves should be Of easy
fitting coat shape, following the out
lines OF the arm in a comfortable fashion.
set high on the shoulders, and quite
long at the wrists. The standing collar
should be high and broad. ever though
the neck is short; it should be cut bias,
with the lower edge much curved, and
this edge set on below the neck of the
waist, to give the necessary depth; tho
edges OF the front are sloped narrower
at the top. and should At high and close
about the throat. This wide collar
gives the appearance of a longer neck,
and requires merely some fiat folds of
lisse or an edge of white ribbon at the
top to make it complete.
The foundation skirt for the dresses of
stout women is closely gored on the
sides, while the front breadth is full
and nearly straight, and is usually made
two or three inches longer than the
back breadths. The English skirt, with
slight drapery on the sides, is well
Sdapted 70 full figures, as the drapery
can be varied, placing it below any UNI
becoming roundness, while the back has
straight full breadths hat prevent too
great ~fiatness, and also give the appear
ance OF height
The princesse gown, with the I'M
broken lines Of its continuous breadths,
is the p%rettiest Of all house dresses for
large women, but in many cases it is
necessary to slope the fronts away to-
ward the sides, and introduce . pointed
bodice and petticoat front breadths. in
order to make some slight drapcry be.
low tho abdomen. The petticoat front
may have . deep Spanish fiounce, with
erect doubled rufies at its head, added
to breadths slightly full at the top: this
gives q long, straight effect. If the
figure is only becomingly plump, how
ever, the straight line should be pre-
served in front of the skirt, having it
open on fat panels, or on striped Eifel
points, or on a long, gathered tablier Of
net or Of gauze. Modistes advise rather
full sleeves with princesse gowns for
large women, as the size of the arm is |
not defined by them, and is thus left to
In selecting dress fabrics a woman Of
ample figure should choose dark shades
Of any becoming color. or else black, as
light shades give the appearance Of
greater size. For dressy house toilettes
the dark silk, or brocade, or velvet
princesse gown is preferred, but may be
lightened by . vest and skirt front of
silk or brocade, or of draped
China Grape or lace. Solid colors and
stripes will be found more
appropriate than any figured stufs,
cross stripes or plaids. The stripes
should not b c~onspicuOusly wide or in
contrasts Of color. Bordered
can be only employed as pan.
els down the skirt and in long pointed
lines on the bodice. When lace is used,
& should be fastened down fatty and
put ON scantily, IS in insertions or soft
frills and lengthwise jsbots.
II the hips are very large, the under.
'kirts should Be gathered to . yoke deep
enough to reach we'll down wei them;
. single yoke is used with
on the edge, TO which the petit
oats are buttoned, and some large
women have buttons for petticoats set
the edge Of their corsets.
Long wraps are becoming to short
ull figures, especially those that do not
lefine the figure too closely, and are
ut in straight slender breadths. Plain
10th, velvet and furs of short fleece are
he materials for such wraps. Shorter
nantles and jackets divide the length
4 the figure. and give the appearance
( breadth.-Harper's Bazar.