The morning call., 1890-06-08
FASHIONS
FOR THE MEN.
What Is Declared de Rigueur for
Those Who Are Stylish.
a Coat That May Be Worn Summer Evenings
Without Waistcoat-G to Be Worn
With Evening Dress-Nsw Buttons

ey1SS seems to be growing more ana more
English. The damp days OF the year are
certainly greatly in excess OF their number
up to within few years. The demand for
rain-coats, as a result, has been greatly in
creased, and the artistry OF the manu- lac
turers has kept pace with the dressiness OF
the times. A macintosh. nos-adays
in place Of the ungainly waterproof or
sou'wester, is one of the most presentable
garments in mans wardrobe. They are
to be had in q great variety Of styles and IL
is almost essential that every man who can
afford the luxury should become possessed
of one.
Some of the wide waistbelts shown for
outing wear are calculated to turn the con-
yictions of the most bgoted opponent of
the outing scheme Of attire to an admission
of its comeliness.
That the rage on now current waist
belts, as indicated by the growing demand
therefor, will not extend beyond this sea-
son will be readily admitted. They are
shown in beautiful fabrics and great vari-
ETY., and in several of the styles the imita-
ti0n OF the tied sash is clever enough to de-
ceive the uninitiated. However. there Will
always be a suspicion in the mind OF the
onlooker of the made-up character OF the
article, and this in some of the poorer
grades or carelessly constructed examples
takes on an abdominal and trusslike ap-
pearance.
The man that inclines to tendency Of
marsupial stoutneSs should avoid the WalSt-
bands of all things.
The Tuxedo coat may be worn in the
evening during the summer without tne
waistcOat A black surah or satin sash is
substituted upon these occasions. a DlacK
tie to match is worn with the sash. IL is
not good form to wear black-silk cravat
mr. och wit tba tai A high
silk hat must accompany the last mentioned
garment, though with the dress sack coat
black straw hat or derby may be worn.
Nothing in the nature of negligee wear save
the sash-and under the conditions men,
tioned-muSt appear with evening dress.
During the summer, as at any other time,
gloves must be worn by the men with even
ing dress. The prevalent idea is delicate
pearl shade. with heavy white cordlike
braid embroidered upon the backs.
This seems to be somewhat expensive
tad at the first glance, but the cleaning
establishments have now mastered the art
to the extent of not only renovating kid
gloves but also Kidding them OF the ob1ec-
tionable benzine odor that was the advance
guard and signal that this functioni OF
economy had been perpetrated.
The introduction of the rundown collar
with full dress viii be more general this
coming summer. The neglige influx and
influence will create more marked feel
ing for comfort In warm weather, and
although the standup collar is pre-eminent-
ly en- regle for full dress, there will be
many that will yield point in style for the
solace that the rundown collar will lmpart
Moreover. straight up collars are difficult to
keep straight in warm weather.
There will be marked departure in an
other season from the stralght-brlmmed
derby. 1t is style that the sports have
speedily taken to their hearts, and this
kind of popularity is the Nemesis OF fash
ion. The straight-brimmed high hats have
been only affected by the sporting fraternity
or employees of tailors on a sort OF dress
parade.
The gold scarf-pin is in comport with the
best taste nowadays. In knot or ball de-
signs it is most distingue and effective.
There is being urged by some OF the Jewel
mongers the idea OF utilizing the nigh
colored precious stones, like emeralds,
rubies, sapphires topaz and amethysts for
scarf pins, but such a display would never
receive the countenance OF refined taste
The midget scarf-pins, too. seem to have
entirely gone out OF fashion.
Underwear and hosiery OF the plalnest
character suitable to the temperature is
most in demand, in gauZe, Isle and silk.
There is not now the rush Oh black under
wear, as it has an effect for warmth that is
prejudicial for summer wear, but in the
fall and winter the sales Will be as large as
heretofore.
The Prince Albert coat seems to be COM
ing strong for morning wear in London in
a variety of rough-faced cloths. The gen.
eral adoption under these conditions is apt
to be more prevalent than ever, for the new
material is better adapted to informal wear
than the fine broadcloths and diagonals
that have been the rule.
The views Of a number of the swell
tailors that presage a revival of that dis
tingue garment, the single-breasted Prince
Albert may be, under the circumstances,
rppaivpH with nnuSuat of
dence.
There has recently been put upon the
market new standing collar, made espe-
cially to be worn with full dress. 1t is but
little over an inch in height at the back,
but rises perceptively higher in front. The
style is straight up, the ends almost meet.
ing in front. The impression created is of
an appropriately formal character.
There are half dozen different styles of
the hieh-backed. turnover breed OF collars,
including "The Winnipeg,o "fhe Nep-
tune" ''The Natillo" and THE Stanley"
These mentioned styles all belong to the
category OF big collars, and in the main they
will be worn by big men.
One of the consequences of wearing the
rundown collar with full dress will be that
white or black tieable cravats will have to
be worn Herewith, the cateh-and- buckle
bow being impraeticable. This will be by
no means drawback, however, as the self
tied neckwear Is always to be advocated.
lie meldl-U6aQ6Q canes seem 10 LeDu IN
their decoration to rep0uSse work in silver,
or tracing of the silver in erratic designs
upon the natural wood sticks. Some very
unique results are obtained by the latter
method
A new kink is to have the buttons OF the
waistcoat match the shirt-studs. A very
chaste effect is obtained when white enam-
eled studs are worn in the full-dress shirt
by having the waistcoat buttons also in
similar white enamel pattern.
During this intermediate season of cool
weather gloves have been worn by the
votaries of swaggerdom en- promenade. The
correct walking glove at this season appears
to he an undressed kid of tan shade, with
self.colored wide braid upon the back.
With outing wear the plainest kind of
handkerchief is desirable. a gauiily pat
termed mouchoir is calculated to throw out
of joint the most carefully conceived color
scheme of summer ensemble.
On the other hand when quiet summer
suit is worn and the general tone is unag-
gressive fanciful ccnceit in a handker-
chief design might impart zest somewhat
out of the conventional.
The time of year is near at hand when
the nightgown will be superseded by the
pajama.
Said the sun to the standup collar, "Wilt?"