, 1890-03-13

generally, how It is prepared. The
people Of Spain arc never gour-
mands. Save in certain quarters In
great citics, the tables Of the arlstoo.
racy are not to be compared In rich
mess and variety OF food with
those of Americans I'm moderate cir
ctimstances. Practically, there are
but two meals each day, tho dcsay-
iino or breakfast, at II, and the conn
ida or dinner, at q or o o'clock. In
the houses Of the well-to-do, were
you companion or guest, the break
fast room and breakfast would sell
dom he found moro cxtravagant
than thIs The room has marble
and stone Tagging, whitewashed
walls, and perhaps a tiny fountain
playing near the folds Of tho sway
Ing cortlnn before vast, and often
lron-bared window. The chairs will
be OF rosewood, mahogany or cb-
ony, straight, tall and comfort
able; the table IL hugo and broad /;
Its linen Is immaculate and fine;
while Its plate In grotesqucly fig
ured and massive. Flowers are
| often piled loosely on some odd
piece OF plate, and not stifly perched
before you. There will be "a few de
cahters of winei as many piles of
excellent crisp bread; and, winter
or summer, several plates of fruh.
Soup Is served first. Meat and
vegetables follow; and then fruit
and vino are enjoyed. The entire
meal Is without "A formality, and
both ~ to tho order of serving and
man ner of partaking, IL invariably
to each individuals liking. After
fruit and wine come the cigar
and cigarette; and during the
entire meal, conversation, often ex-
tending TO whimsical lbanteringsw with
the bare-armed criadas or serving
| girls, whom both the gentleman
and lady Of the house addressed as
] "My daughter seems TO he, rather
than eating, the chief aim of tho
family gathering. AT dinner you
will find the family's habits quite
as simple. The table Is likely 10 he
set nearer the window. Its linen Is
fresh and snowy white. There are
gallons Of icc-cold water In hugo
glass decanters. Fruit, usually
melons and oranges In season, are
bountifully piled upon the table
the melons already sliced to he
handed around, the oranges pared
and set near you by the dozen.
Then the soup II brought 10y
the servant, still bare-armed, but
otherwise I'm volumInous folds Of
white garments- Following soup,
comes the universal plchero of the
Spaniartls, that stew Of all sorts OF
Ash, flesh, fowl aud vegetables,
which is ever food, drink and
dessert among poor and rich, and
which, with bread Of the best quail
ity and marvellous RIGHTEOUSNESS,
make the entire repast. The conn
mon red wine OF Spain Is drunk out
Of old fashioned tumblers through
out the meal. At Its conclusion,
from the quaint old sideboard, or
quBinter fnahogony cupboard, the
hostess will bring glittering de-
canter OF cherry brandy. This Is
served In tiny glasses, and all, in
cluding the servants who assemble
In The dining-ro0m u few moments
for this kindly custom, partakc.
Then again come the cigars, cigar
cites aud n half hour Of banter and
rally, I'm tho enjoyment Of both of
which the hostess often heartily
joins.
EvERyBODy's DISH.
The regime of the lowliest peasant
In Spain does not differ whit from
the one described save In degree.
The puchero Is everybody's dish
twice n day II IL can be afforded.
Little beyond this is needed or de-
sired, and OH the tables Of the rich
or poor no pastry or puddings are
ever seen. The Spanish method Of
cooking fortunately precludes these
No stoves or ranges can be found in
Spain save infrcquently In the
houses Of the nobility, and at those
more important hotels where
wealthy travellers are entertained.
In these the French cuisine
is In vogue. In every kitchen
of the middle classes, or cottage
of the peasantry, will he
found solid brick structure builu
against the wall and with flat top.
Into this, from the interior side, ex-
tended little apertures, perhaps
eighteen inches deep, with open
ings a foot square. Round holes
from four TO six inches In diameter
are cut in the top of each. These,
literally "pigcon holes,n are called
hornillas. They are all the stoves
the people OF Spain ever knew.
Charcoal Is lighted In the hornilla,
famed to white heat by wisps of
rushes, or by the tiny hielle or bel
lows, and all food Il cooked above
these, chiefly In cumbrous earthen-
ware ollas or pots. The pucherO
Is ordinarily made by slnlmerlng
for four hours finely cut Jumps OF
bacon and beef (oiten varied with
bits Of mutton, chicken and fish
in one pot. In another, briefly, all
manner Of edible vegetables are
placed and stewed until tender, and
TO these are often added bits of
] chopped sausage or pork for season.
I ing. The vegetable mess IL cooked
low, that II, until no more than
Juicy. This is first placed In u large
receptacle, and tho contents of the
other ola, which have also been
cooked until tender and sayory, ARE
turned over the former. The high
est ambition of the peasant is that
he may have bacon or other meat
In his puchero every day Of his life;
and any one who has partalSen OF
the delicious and savory dish, with
a rood appetite whettcd by miles of
tramplng behind the grateful act,
will Know how to honor his humble
longing.
A CHEAPER DISH.
But all Spanish peasants are not
able to afford the daily luxury of the