The sun., 1890-01-05
. small bow. The gloves cover the elbow and


reach nlmoet to the sleeve.
The most popular tyres Of embroidery now
employed In the decoration 81 dresses s aTe @ tne
pressed In floral designs, put dlf1er In that the
former ls limited to certain leaves ana small
latter tho blossoms and foliage arc very much
conventionalized, comprising sweeping scrolis
Known o as Srodsrie de sivis. and distinguishes
the dressmakers creations from those pl the
taiI9r whose star iS rst now pd az his IN rentee
convenient little gowns, are rep,aoen Dy
aesthetic clinEng affairs that would be absurd
II they weren't so extremely pretty
Gold braid is Just now fnvorlte decoration
for thin evening dresses and is genorally sewed
on in two or three inch wide rows above tho
hem, and occasionally ono secs 1t In the trim
ming OF con'ectiUn, Gold embroidery is being
effectively introduced on black IoN Jackets ono TO
recently exhibited had close rows OF feather
stitch worked in stripes around the, waist to
form a sort Of corselet. whilo round the edge
of the basque were wrought laurel leaves with
groups OF three pendant gold balls at intervals
to represent berries. The high wide sleeves
were OF black plush. In colors there is re:
vival OF old-time favorites that one would
scarcely have dared wear six months ago.
Sky blue has reappeared, and magenta OF
very bright and aggressive shade was tho
basis OF recent triumph OF art evolved by one
OF the best Paris houses In dinner dress.
Black Chantllly or Brussels lace enters large
ly into the decoration of elegant millinery, and
is generally contrasted with some vivid red
tints Of velvet or silk A low-crowns sl hat OF
rod velvet,with It's wide rim crumpled careless
ly against the crown. is covered with ploatiuRs
and frillngs Of fine black lace. its cloudy dark
moss accentuated with single glossy bird with
dusky pumage. A most bewitchlng little
Snanish affair has a coronal OF red satin and an
oNen crown draped with q black laco veil.which
forms tho strings the folds Of lace at the back
hnIn nfFht hnT unit n Ia iDh tnfnn
An adaptation OF the crown bonnet, oven pret-
tier than The original. has many-pointed
of lace SO arranged as to recall tho err
li@r aa and more ere graceful form % Of the nGom-
T6e little pS nx "ry ha crown o as Me
as tho lining Of the shallow brim, is Of brlrht
tomato red velvet; Among attractive and odd
rm%qd in M% vi With Haq sat a tail si% %nn
an open brim OF pale old rose felt emGroijercd
with black jet. crown OF pulled black velvet
and decoration OF lophophorus feathers and
pale rose osprey. An apology for bonnet is
coronet Of emerald Rreen velvet. with a small
black bow on one side and large jet pin stuck
AMI conducive to influenza ana NEURALGIA.
Young girls wear wide picturesque hats Of
decorations of copper or reseda velvet. with
that would have delighted Di Vernon.
Long mantles which entirely cover the dress.
with long, loose sleeves. are the principal fea-
ture OF outdoor dress. as the season advances.
Magnificent black velvet or brocade garments
OF this kind are lined throughout with sable.
and their long sleeves With the same rich lin
ing. fall over close velvet sleeves with sable
cuffs. These mantles are. however. extremely
heavy, and only designed for carriage use. or
to be worn while paying the, conventional call OF
ceremony, which does. not Inst long enough to
permit the caller to feel the heat OF her ac-
Qunintance'S rooms.
1t is almost absurd to see slender women
struggling along on foot beneath the weight OF
all this elegance. martyrs to the desire to dis
ments. men Cloth nantes are lcn much lighter. and
some clever person has recently evolved the
brilliant idea OF cutting away the heavy under
and afTordlng all necessary warmth. Tho
point. and that is that the inclination TO throw
f;IP open the mantle IN front to exhibit It's costly
ior only the over fronts, are thrown open. and
the snug. warmly lined little bodice affords
safe protection from the cold.
Is composed OF nm extraordinary patchwork OF
brilliant colors,with applications of leather and
ments and is called i La Robe Buffalo" Pass
ing events seem to be reflected in Paris fash.
al 1nd hns TS 81 s s fhf
dress. Some very pretty EiGel" redingotes
are shown. one 81 in reddish brown r over simu-
the front BREADTH and the redingote bordered |
With handsSme s & black a EaassementerIee coneeals
OF cloth are gathered high on the shoulder.
close undersleevGs Of tho Astrakhan., The
other coat has sleeves. q plastron back and |
front. and high collar of lamb.
. The Jacket OF the season has nothing SUPER |
the waist. and has high sleeves. much fuIled on |
the shoulder whether tho material be velvet. |
hanging a
tight ones almost like bells: sometimes they |
are drawn, under long cuffs OF fur or gimp,
tho trimming OF the coat
In skating costumes dark colors prevail to a |
certain extent, though here and there one sees
q crimson skirt trimmed with black or bright |
hued tartan, and the regulation dress consists |
Of q plain full skirt and jaunty little jacket OF
fur or its plush imitation. which some ladies
prefer to the sealskin. as 1t is more easily |
warm, and infinitely less expensive. Skirts are
cut very much longer than formerly. and as
their chief decoration is en- cWctr bands they
are not curved off ut the bottom, but adjusted
In suitable length ut tho top.
Since dress hats or bonnets have assumed
having been supplanted by hats with broad
brims. her worn straight or caught up
nH %Ny IA nHofte
E$s sns'S mats yh'n and sea S5ss
Olbcn cutoI III ~ tiiell oha
costumes Of the MarGuise d'Hervey de Saint
Denys attract considerable attention In Puris
One has jacket of sealskin. open In front to
display a pale blue waistcoat, gray skirt, and
arge lack hat turned up on one side. with
black plumes and blue ribbons. Another has
= tartan skirt lark green and yellow. q green
velvet Jacket. Russian sable boa, with the ends
knotted about the waist. Other striking cos
tunes worn by we-known members OF the
skating club were q seal jacket and black
velvet hat. worn as the complement Of q tan
,loth skirt, q black velvet Jacket with Grim
'on skirt. and an Astrakhan coat with o sky-
blue skirt
THE CASE OF SOPHY JOHNSTON