Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-10-04
Written for TIE EVENING SrAp

Written for TIE EVENING SrAR
n. WELCOME GOODNESS in the wind
Mlv promises frosts, brings out the fur
HSvcapes early and sensibly, for when 10
III vcold more felt than when il FIRST
~AAcomes? The stylish, reserved wesrers
like the coats in softest thick WOOL, light a.
cider flannel, with dull, fine finish. Simply
ftted in the back, tho narrow. single fronts
look slender without darts, and thick cloth
looks bungingly fitted to the bust anyhow ct
best. princess or a woman of exclusive taste
would choose one of these fine coats, with long
revers, braided with the cord that 10 not much
more than coarse sewing silk on revers, collar
and narrow cuff, leaving the braided sleeve to
popularity which will Immediately vulgarize it
HATS AND BoAs THIS AUTUMN.
To this coat the fair wearer will add the boa
of thickly curled ostrich or sheared feathers,
or the glossy cocks plumage. which is rather
the choice for its effect in throwing ND the
wilderness OF the complexion above it. Alas
these pretty feather boas are forbidden TO
round faces and short throats, which remind
one Of Christmas pudding-round and nnctu-
Gus in its wreath Of holly-while long faces with
cheeks that have lost their fulness wear these
feathery coils with kindly grace. There is
sense in these fashions, for the light, warm
protection for throat and front will save many
weak chest from feeling the keen air which
would leave one delicate for the winter
The felt hat for town mornings is the boat
shape with brim upturned in the back and
front just the width to relieve features fallen
on In plumpness without making them look
spare in contrast to their span of roof. Ash
gray felts with rich loops Of black velvet
COCKS plumes and scale embroidery in jet are
the choice for street costumes Park hats
with low crown and broad brim, come in
natural gray rough felt and fur plush, with
long plumes in Charles ii style. Fine French
felts have the brims buttonhole stitched with
fine arrasene and chenille embroidery on the
broad fronts or embroidery and cut-work
veined with chenille.
GOWNS TO BE WORN.
Gowns run to cut work and applique, the
finest serges in terra reds, bishops purple and
Carmelite grays having borders Of velvet ap-
plique, or velvet bands with flowers and rocco
borders cut from the cloth and applied with
tine cord edging. These and the superb plaids
in silky camel's hair and deep, soft Starts and
shetland woods are the most striking fabrics Of
the fortnight. The Macduff tartan in it's deep
crimson with dark green bar, is the most sump-
tuous coloring OF the Scotch plsids. The fancy
patterns which combine deep, rich mist pur-
pies with gray ana russell bars, or green and
gold, are 30 delightful in the show windows
one regrets to think Of them msmade, tumbled
and worn by the wrong woman. They are to
be worn as drapery solely in shoulder plaids,
which are their real purpose, and in plain
skirts with broad side pieats. draped fronts and
fullness gathered closely in the back.
THOUGHTS ON SLEEVES.
Mrs. 7. Y. desires to know whether high
sleeves are in correct taste, az she has seen
them criticised for making persons look round
backed. A moderate high shoulder and sleeve
are anatomically correct as they give natural
ply to the muscles of the shoulder, while a
broad shoulder cut brings the seam directly
across the curve Of the muscle. The high
topped sleeve is grotesque anu looks as il il
were striving to give the ears flap, and when
the fullness is carried back at all it gives q
pitiful effect Of bow shoulders. A good form
has the shoulder blades fat the wall and q
back fat for its length, save an inward hollow
ut the waist, 10 one or the cardinal points of
beauty. The warm autumn brings out the
fashions for dress so slowly that one is thankful
for more time to make the house ready fer
changes OF weather and provide the comforts
| with due forethought.
FALL FooTGEAR
First Of all, delicate people must be well shod
for changing seasons. Before the need of
warmer clothing is felt the damp chill striking
| through the feet is felt through limbs and
| body, stiffening the cords and the gait, foster
| to anything but usefulness of feeling. What is
| to be done? To wear rubbers constantly 10 only
another form of the evil for the feet cased in
their own warm moisture get dangerously
| chilled on taking rubbers off. The safe thing
| is to have q rubber-soled shoe which leaves
| the upper part of the foot dry and free to the
| air. One can have a sole cut out of thin, pure
rubber and cemented TO a boot for 50 or rs
| cents pair and save endless internal troubles
| from cold feet. Do you know how much easier
1sx,,,, E,zN xl,,ty l..
The ease Of getting about on them took a third
| ones weight Off Who can estimate the relief
| to back, sinews and leg muscles?
IMPORTANCE OF SOUND sHoEINa
All drivers know that city streets and pave
ments wear out the strength aud feet of horses
| far sooner than the country roads Are pave
| ments and floors any kinder to women? don't
| believe any one who reads ever thought about
| it, but the constant stepping about non-elastic
| floors and sidewalks must wear greatly on the
| limited strength of women. Earth gives the
| mountain sod is elastic, the woodland, the
grassy turf yield and save the foot which
treads them. Tiles, marble, cement oilcloth
do not give way, and all the impact of tine
tread returns upon the muscles and nerves in
o cruel way. This constant jarring, unnotlced
at first, works strange mischief in women's or
ganisms, aud the cause is seldom suspected
Wood floors and sole leather heels are elastic
beside stone floors and metal heels. but not
sufficiently So One feels the difference very
soon in climbing iron or stone stairways which
take the life out of the step strangely and L
pray never will become common for the sake
OF humanity which wastes itself upon them.
But to know the luxury Of footing and how
much relief is possible to the strain Of life
never dreamed Of one should put on the new
shoes with elastic seam. 1t is Just a little
thing, an eighth of an inch or less of pure
rubber let in at the ball of the foot between
sole and upper, invisible, detracting nothing
from the fit Of as shapely shoes as are sold, but
making all the difference of ease and springy
| step and taking the strain of so many painful
muscles.
This is not the last improvement in footgear
have to tell Of Have you ever noticed the
| accidents which happen on the marble and H.
laid floors of shops as well as on slippery ice?
There is not day that people do not measure
their length on the smooth marble or slip and
bring up with q strain that wrenches every liga-
ment of their bodies Add to this the dreadful
slipping Of heels worn smooth on the edge of
steps or thresholds with shock and wrench and
you have quite list of risks to run before the
ice sets in with its dangers to life and limb.
SAFETY FOR WALKERS.
There is a ladies' coffee room know whose
marble floor is a nervous horror to customers
with its slippery surface, and have had so
many shocks Of the sort, with lasting injury.
that seeing the sign Of Rubber Safety Heels
in basement shop window dived for them
at once The heel is o block Of pure flexible
rubber let into the heel so as to save the wear
of leather, slipping and jar Of spine. Though
a dollar for pair of heels seems rather an ad>
dition to the cost Of shoes, persons obliged to Of
close economists ind nothing so we'll worth the