The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-06-01

seem to exist as merely passive beings In a
hateful present, dolefully regarding the
second class are chiefly the brusque, strap
ping, square-bodied wives of the small deal
ers, relic-showmen and petty politicians of
modern Venice. They are loud-voiced,
wide jawed. brazen-f faced; regard the social
revolution which has put them at the front
81 shi assnysd as and s
the last years Paris and London
fashions with an affluence and enthusi-
asm worthy of their extraordinary vigor
and assurance. The third class is of
course the lowly.- Its women are bare.
headed, bare-legged, bare breasted creatures
With pudgy little faces, tiny noses and eyes,
necks with a tendency to goitre, and with
no more perfection of symmetry about their
bunchy, squaw-lik forms than you will fud
in the humpy, head protruding peasant
women from Bulgaria and lower Hungary
who are weekly landed at Castle Garden, in
New York. These glory in immense, fiat,
crescent-shaped earrings, metal bracelets
upon arms and ankles, huge strings of
gaudy Venetian beads, garlic and babies.
This IS not pleasant picture, but it is a
true one. All these faces have more or less
of plaintive. look about the eyes, and
mouth. This, the subtle essence of so uni
versal poetic adulation. is ascribed by the
more realistic physicians Of Venice to catarrh
I have their word for it that it is an univer-
sal ailment in water-logged Venice.
The only specimen of the tramp species
have seen in all Italy. though myself an un-
blushing tramp and likely to meet the bro
therhood if it existed here, was ON the way
from Campi Veteres to Potenza. We met
at wayside shrine. After succeeding in
convincing him that there was natural af-
finity existing between us, shared the
contents of my lunch wallet with him. I
then made him partially understand the lux
uriousness, versatility and numerousness of
the American tramp, and, on our way into
the old earthquake-shaken city, he ex-
planned with the excellent analysis and I'M
erring logic with which all tramps discuss
sociology. why our kind were quite un-
known in Italy. The reasons he gave were,
briefly, that he who had no work to do, or
he who preferred not to engage in toll, in
his country from choice and custom in
stantly became beggar or bandit. He
could adopt neither profession, because
bandit required a certain amount of bravery
and involved danger. Being a successful
beggar made malformation, or unpleasant
distorti IN and posing, necessary. Another
important reason for the non-existance of
tramps, he thought, was a certain sharp
spur of necessity which goaded men of
desuetude to at least movement in rigorous
northern chimes. In such lands as Italy
sunshine and sleep were good part of
food itself: little actual nourishment was
requisite whore there was little waste for
exertion; the lazzaroni could sleep out-of-
doors nearly all the year round; wine was
cheaper than good water: practically no
clothing was required; and, altogether.
sentimental tourists provided handsomely
for all. For himself. he had a soul above
begging, below the banditti, and so loved
all his adored Italy that he aspired to
know it from the true travellers standpoint.
To further this aspiration he repaired pedal
by day and improvised pastoral
epics by night-science and poesy, as it
were, wandering hand in hand through the
sunny ways of Italy.
Millions of men and women reading Mil
toms lines,
Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks
n valombrGsa; where tn E5rurian shades
have seen the vision that came in swift
longing to him to again dwell among the
franciscan monks in the monastery near
the top of the mountain above Florence,
and yearned, as he yearned. for the cool
depths of its restful shade. It is the one
place in all Italy, save beautiful Palermo,
which fulflls preconceived notions. Your
Journey is Is miles from Florence, up the
lovely valley of the Arno, where are em-
powered in vine and flowers hundreds of
villas occupied by the Italian aristocracy
and nobility. A broad carriage road leads
all the way. Hating at the little village
Of Tosi,. from which one was formerly
to the mountain retreat BY
sledge drawn by oxen, an hour is passed
at refreshments and in enchanting views of |
the cities, valleys, plains and rivers below,
when the journey is resumed up the
Pratomagno mountain. through groves of
the most magnificent beech and chestnut |
trees in the world. The songs Of birds, the
Eolian music of forest breezes, and endless
melodies of falling waters, SO bewit:h one !
Ill the way from Tosi, that suddenly and
without warning you are at the enchanting
eerie. It comprises but few |
acres of level meadow through which runs
end of this stands the lichened and gray
Did mass of buildings, more famous from |
three lines by Milton than any other similar
spot in the world. The order of Vallam-
orosans, founded i'll the early part of the |
eleventh century by Gualberto, of Florence
Staying the murderer of his brother, though !
1t his mercy, in thankfulness to God be.
came religious devotee, and. eventually |
he founder of Il great order-became one
If the richest and most powerful in Italy; |
md this one old monastery held their chief
reasure., For this order Ciambue painted
lis priceless Madonna; Perugino. his mar
'elous Assumption. But tie French rev.
,lution almost ruined the order.
When Napoleon's council debated whether
hey should spare the VallombroSans be-
'ause they kept the wolves thinned in the
Mountains, it was asked, "Shall we have
monks or wolves?' "Wolves!'' was the an
wer: and Victor Emanuel in 1860, at the
Italian disestablishment, completed their
extinction here. The place is now used as
government agricultural school, with a
orps of resident professors: and Just above
he monastery is an observatory, one of the
Italian signal and weather stations of to-
lay. A glorious torrent leaps past the edge
If the meadow; the forests in which the
weet old nest is embedded were nearly all
et out by the monks; over 10000 beech
rees are now standing, all of which were
.lanted by these vigorous recluses; and
hough Vallonibrosa is 5000 feet above the
ca, the mountain behind rises LOCO
eet higher, covered densely with as grand
pine forest az eyes ever beheld. Glo-
ious indeed are all the surroundings
nd memories of this little upland val
ey; but from the top of Pratomagno the
most ravishingly beautiful view in all Italy
S presented. What wondrous associations
re conjurea in contemplation of the fair.
ar Casentino valley, with its boundary be-
ond formed by the lofty Apenines, where
re born the Tibsr and Arno! Tuscany,
lome of the dream-breeding vine and Of
air women, stretches sunnily to the west
Yard. The majestic Duomo glitters down
here in the center of the purple, checkered
alley, where Florence stands. And far,
amt and magically seen through the passes
4 the uttermost peaks of Carrara, shines a
pom the broad Mediterranean. Descend
o the old monastery. Dream among its
Holsters. Wander among its stately groves.
eaye il to 90 avav and never reAurm Rnt