Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-07-13
A LAND OF MISERY.
yccnos In Adobe Cities Of tho Interior
OF Bolivia, 3. A.
CHURCHES FILLED WITH GOLD
While tho woshpsn Scarcely Ever Enjoy
asquaro Meal.
AN INDIAN FUNERAL CELEBRATION
,eonnrsposprson or ruu prspArcu., ,

ICOHHNhfONphNCM op THE pIHFATCHst
CHULuMANI, BOLIVIA, June 2.-Te
have visited the capital and one or two min.
Ing regions aud 10 have made tour OF OBJ
servation into any interior valley Is equiva.
lent to having seen every rod OF Bolivia
for throughout Its vast extent there are few
variations, except those caused by altitude,
In changes OF climate and different indus
tries pursued by the people. 80 very cold
is the atmosphere OF La Paz, at an elevation
of over $4,000 feet, that the traveller finds II
difficult to believe himself really Within
the semi-tropics and to realize that were II
not for these mountain ranges topped with
eternal snow the whole country would be
like the Yungas Valley, filled with sunshine
and luxuriant vegetation.
Chulumani, Capital OF the Province of
Yungas, is a typical town of interior Bolivia.
With a population Of only about $500, 1t
covers nearly as much space as the city OF
Chicago. Having been built haphszard up
and down the hillsides, a bird'seye view
makes its roofs of ancient and clumsy tiles,
which were long since turned by time from
dull red to mossy green and gray, appear to
be piled directly on top OF one another.
Except the huts of the Indians all are enor-
nous structures, sometimes rambling around
two or three inner courts; and though many
of them contain several shops and shelter a
number of families one finds nowhere those
neat little houses, which can be furnished
without much cost and easily kept in order,
SO much in demand at the North. Though
the Spanish Is said to be the richest OF all
languages, it has no such word as home, nor
anything rit than hogas (hearth) which
really signifies nothing in that direction,
since in all South America there is not a
hearth to sit by, nor stove, CRATE or other
contrivance in which fire may be built for
warmth and cheertulness.
PAYING BOARD IN GIFTS.
Though the capital OF an important prov
lnce, Chulumani contains neither hotel nor
tambo; therefore all travellers must depend
upon private hospitality, and ones gener-
GUS entertainers would feel grievously in
suited if offered money in return Tor their
hospitality. Gi is are received, however,
and one needs 10 carry about the country q
regular Yankee peddler's stock of notions
to distribute in payment for his board.
The arrival Of strangers and especially Of
Americans creates an immense sensation in
these small communities and in our walks
abroad, though escorted by the Jefe Polit-
leo, hose Office corresponds to that of mayor
In the United States; the local doctor and
the cure, we were followed by gaping
crowd which increased at every turn. The
only mandatory, II so II may be called, Is
an establishment where cocoa leaves are
pressed into bales, each weighing 25 pounds,
by primitive machine In the hands OF four
Indians. There IL but one sign. board Ia
ali adj haH tyb IA la ia6 a. daJ-
the "fnstitute" or Catholic college; blue.
painted strip, whose golden letters are 10
the form o books, with an inkstand stuck
Iull Of pens Tor q period. The girls occupy
the lower aoor, tho boys the upper, and pre-.
eisely Ut 7 o'clock on every day In the
week but Sunday, school begins and holds
till b In the afternoon.
SHOUTING THEIR LESSONS.
The Institute being across the narrow
street directly opposite our bedroom window,
we were awakened every morning by child
ish voices piping Catholic hymnj and all
day long we had the benefit OF the lessons,
Us according to universal custom In these
countries, the children study aloud, this one
shouting out his arithmetic, that one his
grammar, and third his spelling lesson.
The scholars are OF all classes, from the we'll
dressed sons OF the JeIe Politico to bare
footed Indian children. That the path was
somewhat thorny Was evidenced by the fire.
quent sound OF blows and the howlings OF
some poor little urchn.
Then there is the market plaza. Fronting
one side of this is the village church. To
kneel among a throng Of Indians, on q floor
whose bricks have been worn thin BY the
knees of centuries o. worshipers, while mass
is chanted and incense burned, is not an un-
common experience; but lew churchgoers
in any land were treated 10 finer music on
that bright Sunday morning than we in this
tar country. One o. our party, q type OF
the best class Of Spanish Americans,
is musical composer OF unusual
genius; and having been invited by
the cure, he ascended the rickety organ lott
and mace the long-silenta and decrepit old in
strument speak as never in the Dalmiest days
of its youth. 1 am afraid that the music,
mostly improvlsed, now solemn, now joy
Gus, was hardly in accord with the mass; but
that it reached the dullest heart was shown
by the tears that fell from many eyes.
ANoTABLE CHARACTER.
The cure OF Chulumani is character not
to be passed without mention. Barely "a
years OF age, remarkably handsome in
dark, sharp-ieatured way, educated lar be-
yond the ken OF his associates, and with
almost Unlimited power in his little world,
his outlook upon Ii is certainly not SOM
ber one. After mass his youthful excel
lency called upon US, in long black gown
and silky wide-brimmed hat, tied up at the
sides, shovel fashion, with black cords and
tassels, and in course of conversation in
formed us that kind of musical reunion
was held at his house on Sunday evenings,
in which his friends participated, and in
vited US to join the company.
Well, we went. The well-furnished draw
ing room contained fine piano, a cabinet
organ, guitars, violins and other musical
instruments Our Spanish American genius
rendered some operatic selections, the house
servants were called in to give US a speci-
men of native music and the call was con-
cluded with the most pleasant impressions
on all sides. 1t came out aiterward, how
ever, that we did not see anything of the
real entertainment of the evening, for our
musical riend. understanding the ways of
his conntrymen better than we, slipped over
beforehand and posted the priest as to what
is not customary among los Americanos,