Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1890-09-24
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
FALL MILLINERY - MATERIALS TRIM
M1Nes-NovELTY DRESS GooDs-STYLEl
| IN MAKING
| From our Female Fashion Reporter.l
The prominence of heliotrope is made
| apparent by felts in that color, the pale
| shades being exponents of much that il
novel and deli.ate. New fets in Mile
green are equally striking, and while on the
| subject of Fall colors, the russell shades,
dark green and dark blue deserve mention
as unusually stylish. There is q moderate
proportion of conservative brown and the
piles OF black felts on wholesale counters
show the prolonged employment of this
valuable contrast In dress. Nothing has
been found to replace velvet as the materi-
al for dress bonnets and it comes in all new
colors with a large complement of plush
that is often in Astrakhau weave in COM
pliance with the prominence of such pecu.
liarity in other departments.
CAroTEs
range in size from extremely small ones to
those of quite large size, but it is easy to
predict much more style in the former than
the latter. Some shapes point sharply over
the forehead and others show brim which
commencing as a coronet, turns again up
wards and outwards with peculiar effect.
Small round hats are varied tribe, some
with extremely low crowns and narrow
brims which may turn upwards or down.
wards in variety of contour as to special
detail; the assortment of wide brimmed
felts is large and like summer straws, gen.
orally project in front and are narrow at the
back, while there is also the customary
supply OF turbans and English walking hats
with renewed complement this season of
toques. In ribbons there is choice among
narrow velvet, double faced satin, heavy
gros grain or brocaded, from quite narrow
to very wide and though contrasts are seen,
yet there are sef colored and in greater
novelty, brocades in gilt or silver, the lat
ter being at times very freely used because
80 much more refined than gilt. Ostrich
feathers prepared in an entirely new method
are destined to achieve much popularity.
Stripped from the quill, they are then past
ed in artificial shapes, chiefly pompons or
bands and thus form convenient garnitures.
Skeleton toques made of these feather
bands replace the summer ones outlined by
small flowers and such trimming will be
equally we'll adapted to small hats for
young ladies or capotes worn by matrons.
will give unique and becoming finish. but
here the coming rage for Prince of Wales
tips will interfere, an equal popularity be-
ing in store for bands of ostrich tips curIed
in Prince of Wales style. With a desired
At,ff, k1Axr ~,sI - ~ i
hats and add to the general effect of fluff
ness which is to characterize dress this
winter. Bands of fur are likewise a covet-
ed ornamentatioD, especially otter with the
little animals head centre piece. Small
independent heads are shown as ornaments
and insects made in fur with metal legs,
eyes and anteanae and cslluloid wings are
almost an absurd concession to the present
popularity of fur.
DRESS MATERIALS
as shown by Lord and Taylor are charaot-
erized by great boldEess in pattern and fre-
quentlY likewise roughness in surface.
As e1 ITS of the former, come woods in
enormous plaids or in circular or oblong
figures while stylish roughness is obtain
ed by Astrakhan weaves, large bourette
fecklpgs or in came's hair materials, by
very long hairs lying thick on the body of
the goods. Large plaids are outlined by
Astrakhsn carliDgs or the latter may form
the large oval or circular spots to which al
lusion has been made and hairy tuftings
perform similar office. Bourette dottings
produce certain vagueness that is pleasing
because it oftens outlines, and patterns of
the size at present in vogue, if net some-
what softened, would in truth be intoler-
able. But not unfrequently an Astrakhsn
weave when placed in large designs, does
not sharply outline them, but seems rather
to have come accidentally into position and
long hairs lying about give kindred ef-
feet. Colors moreover blend gently where
surfaces are rough, and as rather sombre
hues in these special lines are employed,
considerable modification results.
The market nevertheless is we'll supplied
with dress goods showing
BRIGHT CoLoRs
but here, the surfaces are smooth and often
in Henrietta weave. Clan plaids are cons.
picuous and the very large circular or oval
spots which are equally a feature of the
season. Entire dresses made in plaids on
the bias have proved so effective during
summer for tall and slender women that
they will be repeated in winter materials
and the eye having grown accustomed to
large figures in India silks aud satines, will
easily tolerate them in woods or heavier
silken fabrics. But for manifest reasons,
the class of persons who can wear costumes
in such fabrics is limited and the majority
need combination of plain goods which
frequently composes almost tie whole dress
with skirt panels only and some CORES.
ponding touches on the corssge, of large
designs. In order to exhibit properly these
mammoth figures, material must hang
plainly and therefore most of the new illus
trations cent to dressm akers show the
drapery in a measure wrapped about the
figure or else falling entirely plain. Bas-
ques are still very short and slight loopings
on one side of the skirt in Marguerite style,
do not interfere with the general appear.
ance of simplicity.
INDEPENDENT BODICEs
will be 10 vogue as shown by importations
of velvet in appropriate lengths on which
the outer portions of sleeves, cuffs and COL
lar are richly embroidered in self color or
contrasts. These are to be worn with fine
wool or silk skirts and are the torerunuers
of coming varieties in corsages separate
from skirts, Theatre waists" are always
popular ia winter because they are dressy,
while the skirts woro with them may have
done hard service aud therefore be convent
emily utilized at places of amusement where
injury by long sitting ia not matter of
consequence, siu0a, except in boxes, the
lower part Of ths costume does not show.
ROsALIND MAY.
WINoNA, MISS, Jan. 10, 1890.
Mr.. Wallace O'Leary
Dear Sir-I feel ssthat I am in gratitude
bound to tell you how tie Microbe Killer
has beneftted me. For several years past
have been great sufferer from indiges-
tion and chronic diarrhea and general
nervous prostratlon. After having taken
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