The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-18
What Mrs. Grundy and her Daughters
are Doing Now.
THE GLASS OF FASHION.
Carmen Sylvia, Queen Of RuunanIa, and Her
Words 10 the Wise.
MANIFESTATIONS OF WOMANHOOD

aies-BeautY and tho PanaIes-The Re-
ward that Successful GnIlnntry Won.
An early Easter Is followed as a natural
sequence by an early London season. n speedy
capitalization into definite modes OF now
fashion suggestions, and hurried display Of
novelties. Fashions involving much thought
and labor in originating and perfectng are
adopted or thrown aside IN q manner iDcom-
prehensible even to the initiated, and caprices
of ono moment assume tho dignity OF con-
ventionality the next. Among the now fancies
Is most singular ana sudden penchant for
sleeves in evening bodices Of most exaggerated
proportions, reaching always to the regular
evening gloves. and sometimes covering the
bsre arm entirely to tho wrist AS sleeves
they assume new and more important func-
tions: the bodces decrease in inverse ratio,
falling entirely or the shoulders and display
1ng q generous expanse Of uncovered lowell
ness for evening wear, and leaving the throat
entirely bare even in the simplest street gowns
on ordinary occasions.
There is said to be almost as much charac-
Ser expressed by tho throat as by the face, and
that faces may never DO fairly judged from an
artistic standpoint while the throat is covered.
Should fashion decree that all throats be I'M
covered. that theory would be we'll borne out
by observing how many homey women would
suddenly become attractive. how many hand
some ones be rendered almost plain. but for
tunately for tho woman with IN ugly throat
there is still left tho other extreme Of the
mode in tho policeman's collar, tho Tosca. the
Medici. and the Tudor. The onlyEdanGer In
the introduction Of such extreme styles is that
they. and the women who affect them. usually
get moro disastriously mixed up than Sullivan
and GilbertS babies. tho woman with the
scrawny neck wearing tho lowest gowns and
1u-throated Hebes buttoning themselves up
in velvet mock bands that only stop at their
ears, for such Is the perversty OF woman.
In now shoes we see very dressy models for
outdoor wear. some OF the promenade boots
being smart rs to DO distinguished from
evening shoes only because they have a leather
heel. The Duchess shoe in patent leather has
a long flap. kept in place by a large square
steel buckle. and tho Princess has three Of the
straps embroidered in bronze or Steel while
the "Breta" rejoices i'll an additional two |
straps, each ornamented with q cut steel
horseshoe. In house Shoes there is tho Parish |
enne. heavily beaded. cut out in front in a sort
OF trellis work with Louis heel, and. most
unique of ALL the " Duchess OF Fife" q regular |
court slipper in black or bronze. ornamented |
with dainty little bow Of tartan silk. The |
leading novelties for house wear, probably the |
Vandykc shoe. is most popular. and is made |
with pointed ornament OF silk and bead pas
semeneric. gradually. increasing in size |
toward the tor. Walking shoes are either in |
leather vamp. and tennis shoes come in tan or |
black, in the new velvet Sal and In the dark
so popular in shoes and gloves well. |
Boating shoes are sinGulGrly festive in appear;
with tan color, in dark blue or in tiny checks |
OF white with the colors. But for real bril- |
dancing shoes are the beauties TO be studiei |
Palest primrose. vivid scarlet. royal blue. and
rush on that popular color is said to have beon
phenomenal in the past month. Lot the woman
hOwaVor fDr n = n
shoe would be too dazzling for artistic delight
and suggestive of circus posters, rot only in
For summer. young girls will wear immense
black hats fiat as plate. and loaded down with
flowers. The individuality OF each will consist
in the peculiar convoutions Of the brim. which
is bent and folded contorted in all varieties
of q cooked hat or picturesque Gainsborough
effects for some faces. and turned down all
around like lamp shade on others. Married
women still cling to smallest possible head
gear. band of Jet or tulle. with veil gath
cred over the front curls. or n tuft of cowslips
set IN tuIle over, waVy, tresse5. striking
bonnet worn at the Paris horse show, where
one sees more dresSy toilets than are worn in
New York Mt n reception on the avenue, con-
sst9d Of single sing red poppy ilattened on the
hair in a circle about as large as a plate; the
second row was smaller, and in the centre was
bs cnstnme acn0moonvnp III the hef
of rod silk skirts back and front with black vel
q
fastened on the shoul der and under the arm and |
silk sleeves. and red ruche about the throat
A new material has been introduced by Red
fern for tho panels or fronts of dresses which |
has the appearance of plated braid the de- |
Sign resembling the wicker work OF a cane
bottomed chair. 1t looks both strong and |
light, but 1t ID really too heavy to form the en-
tire costume. The charm OF the material is in |
the glmpses it reveals OF the bright founda- |
ton beneath it. as in % model shown OF the |
highest shade OF fawn color with panel OF the
braiding laid over bright golden satin, making |
= beautiful and rich effect. but eminently In |
Keeping with the general design Of the tailor |
ness the TrlRGess Of ' Wales is making up this
season plain light colored homespuns. gray.
cloth, either plain or With thread Of color.
forming largo squares. for the little morning
Pensablo 4 part Of every lady's wardrobe. Tho
homespunS are not much trimmed save Tor
cloth corISsroniing in tint to tho check
lines es4IEinG, the collar. waistooat. 2nd
Ge ss Sc San are an nGfy sSshD 6a
there is nothing TO say about them except
tunes is ono with border OH, Of braid edged with
Goid thread on cinnamon cloth cut put in open
oachou; black and gold Grolots trim tho ploated
seamless corsage A very striking suit in
was Handsomely, braided about the skirt in dif.
feTSnt Widths Of black braid 70 me depth q half
CHu' no poulco Duttoneu IN front with the
uniest OF Jet buttons, and piece OF bradng
very ceverly arranged was brought from under
the arms 70 point in front. over this bodice
was q little 2ouayo entirely covered with tho
braid Ing. with high braided collar and bor-
der Of small black silk Dob5
new. Jacket which recommends iIseli to
popularity by pieturesqueness OF elect Is the
Cavalier" modelled after tho style Of Charles
II. 1t is made in any color or material. but is
very CHG and smart in gray camels hair braid
cd in black 1t is almost tight-ftting. with
NerY deep basque pockets. flaps. aud lapels. |
Over each shoulder are two small capes. finish
ing of under the lapels, and tho waiscoat Is !
Of lighter shade, braided with black RUSSIAN !
braid which ornaments with heavy military |
knots tho cutis as we'll
To illustrate the lanciiulness and brilliancy |
Of the dust coakS. here is the latest and per-
haps the Gayest one yet evolved. 1t is OF Surah |
SILK in "a rich poppy rod. with yoke COMPOSED |
OF alternate lengths Of black and gold passe-
trimmed with GOLD lined with red. The cloak