davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
Back Of Home Dress

Back Of Home Dress would write for
women who wish to look as well as the best
on ordinary allowances.
1t isn't impossible to look as well-not to
dress as well absolutely, but to make as sat
isfactory effect-on much less money than
rich women spend, il one has strict taste, a
command of shopping sense and is clever at
her needle. Three-fourths the cost of dresses
from frst-class houses goes for the making,
not the material. There is just one thing
women want to understand more than the
higher criticism of Swedish gymnastics. and
that is dressmaking. Every girl should be
taught thoroughly how to plan dress and
finish it in correct style, for good dressmak-
ers are scarcer than saints, and honest ones
far more so.
A GOWN FOR THE STREET.
Not to tell the wearying novelties of style,
but to select the best points is a pleasing
matter. The gown for the street, rich or
plain, is OF wool, silk being left to the dow
ayers out of doors. A well-chosen wardrobe
will have a selection of these in cheviot,
serge, Henrietta, mohair and the drap d. etc,
most useful and welcome of fine goods.
Each material has its own special mode for
making, and its own accompaniments of
hat, gloves and ingeree for correct dress.
Begin wi tn a cheviot check for mornings
and shoppi ng. There are so patterns of
chevio in small plaids, but one will re-
strict the choice TO shepherds check in gray
and white, dead leaf, fswn or stone color,
with creamy white, crossed perhaps with
bar of faint yellow, old pink or indigo, or a
thread of less indefinite, blue. red or amber.
Let the red checks and blue checks and
heliotrope severely alone, as they fade, for
one thing, and they never look quite right
for the other. A smart suit in cheviot has
the skirt all round in fat box pleats, or with
gathered straight drapery in the back, with
jacket and plain vest OF thick glossy silk, or
plain surah blouse, gathered at throat and
belt. No fancy stitching, no trimming of
any sort, but the pleats of the skirt pressed
in sharp folds, as if laid by straight edge,
and stitched firmly to tapes all round. so
that no winds can blow them out of place.
IT REQUIRES SKILL.
Ready-msde gowns are seldom satisfac.
tory In this respect, and secOnd-rate dress
makers have pleasing fiction that slackIv-
secured folds are more rtistic, which is toll
cradle and not to be endured in cloth
gown. The little linen col lar and small
soft silk tie 60 with this, or the revers are
thrown back to show linen or silk shirt.
or the high silk vest always advisable on
cool day S. One of the most convenient and
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
WHITNEY COULDN'T HIDE IT.
The Ex-Secretnry's Efforts to Behave Him.
self on His Wedding Trip.
C1avoland PIafu-Dealer.1


Cleveland Plain-Dealer.]
The anxiety of newly married couples to
appear "like old married folks is proverb-
ial. When ex-Secretary OF the Navy Whit
ney was married to Miss Flora Payne they
started from Cleveland on their wedding
trip, firmly resolved to appear as if they
had been married for years.
"Now, if appear little cold" said Mr..
Whitney to his bride. remember am only
acting part.
When the train reached Ashtabula YER
dant couple, showing beyond all doubt that
they had just come from the altar, ca me into
the car where Mr.. and Mrs. Whitney sat.
"Why, anybody could tell that that
couple have just been married, said he.
''Look at the mans pumps, the woman's
flowers and all that. Nobody could doubt
they were bride and groom. But I don't
believe we give ourselves away like that,
eh, Flora?"
After few hours the train stopped at a
station and Mr.. Whitney left the car for a
stroll on the platform and a moments smoke.
As he paced up and down, enjoying his
cigar, 1the Ashtabula groom stepped up and
was hardly lighted when, showing dispo-
sition to be friendly, he remarked to Mr..
Whitney:
well, partner, I guess we are in the
same boat"
Mr.. Whitney was disguised. He re-
turned to the car and explained to Mrs.
Whitney: Flora, it's no use. Even that
greenhorn from Ashtabula has spotted u.s."
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

may be shirred, gathered or pleated, and
trimmed with any number of rows of moire
or velvet ribbon or braid and yet be devoid
of beauty unless they "set" or chang"
well. IF they are wrong in this
particular no saving grace of picturesque
bodice or elaborate sleeve will render the
dress anything else than a failure in artistic
effect. Mothers should not need to he
cautioned about buying cheap material for
these harem-scarum girls NOR for any girls,
nor for themselves for that matter, since it
is paradoxicallv true the cheapest is always
the dearest, and vice versa, and especially so
Tor growing people. There is one thing I
am afraid they will have learned before the
proper care of their clothing, and that is the
use OF cosmetics; so much in regard to them
is said, written and practlced that girls are
likely to take their use as a matter of course,
therefore it might be timely to give them the
prescription of the old Quaker lady, who,
with neither knowledge of nor wish for
these outward additions which are supposed
to render face beautiful, suggested cos
metic which should show a beautiful soul:
For the lips, truth; for the voice, prayer; for
the eyes, piety; for the hands, charity; for
the figure, uprightness, for the heart, love.
NEG.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

When the crowd surrounded the boy his
face was not even pale. He acted precisely
as if ne had done something that he had to
do, and the compliments that were paid to
him failed to aronse the slightest indication
of pride or even selfconsciousness.
A certain young lady of much society
fame, vino had witnessed the deed of bravery
said to her companion:
"Just think of it Such courage in q
common little butcher boy !"
eyes," responded the tall, languid cotil-
Ion dancer at her side; positively absurd,
is it not?''
GOTHAM'S POLITE YOUNG MEN.
We must modestly bow our acknowledge
ment to the increasing number of testi-
monials to our gallantry. The latest is this
from an elderly lady: ST was at Barnum's s
Circus the other night and found my seat
most uncom ortable. At the close of the
entertainment attempted to RISE and failed,
from having been so long in that cramped
position. My husband was about to lift me
by one arm when young gentleman stopped
in hisraDid decent in the general scramble,
and begged to be allowed to assist, and not
only did assist me to rise but helped my un-
certain steps through the rushing throng
till had reached solid ground.
'Soon after + entered a crowded horse
car, and resigned myself to a strap. An
other young gentleman arose directly, and
offered me his seat. To my thanks he re-
turned a hearty you are very welcome
and lifted his hat. Now if were young
and pretty these attentions might not be re-
markaole, but I am a middle-aged grand
mother. Being a native of Boston, and
having Travelled some, know the customs
of other cities, and never have met any
where else so many unexpected kindnesses,
of this sort. New York is the queen of
American cities in this respect"
HUB OF THE UNIVERSE.
Who will aver that blood is not thicker
than water after this incident, wherein a
lady entered q crowded restaurant, where
women weary of shopping most do con-
gregate, and took the only vacant seat at
table already occupied by two ladies wait
ing for their plates. She was met with a
stony stare-said to be the char
acteristic of ladies from GER
tain highly cultivated town-which
plainly told her that she was an intruder,
while mutual glances said, as eloquently,
'Now our tete-a-tete is at an end" Soon
the plates were brought. and baked beans
were set before the pair. These, too, met
the stony stare, and again mutual looks in
auired. "What in the world are these?"
The viands were daintily tested. Then spoon
and fork were thrown down with emphatic
contempt, while one exclaimed.
'Do they call these Boston baked beans?"
The observing interloper saw her oppor-
tunity. II do not think you will find gen.
uine Boston baked beans in all New York.
1 have tailed to-"
Immediately the expression of disgust in
the faces opposite changed to one OF keenest
pleasure, while smiling lips said: "You,
too, are from Boston?" in tones indicating
an ecstatic recognition of being from
higher sphere. CLARA BELLE.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

nattiest of suits for the street, the English
blazer costume, is made of blue serge or
summer cloth in black, marine or blue
black shades. 1t is strictly a town dress
in its trim plainness and style, but will be
the favorite walking dress of the season
wherever seen. The skirt, absolutely plain,
is laid in the broad pleats which give the
best lines to tn e height; and the jacket with
fitted back and loose front is adjustable to
be worn open above the chest button and
fall together below, or loose to show the
silk blouse and sash which girdles the waist.
The outlines are perfect, not an inch of
superhuous material in the whole thing,
and the jacket has as few seams as a gar
ment can be shaped by. These "blazer"
suits as they are called, because worn with
the ashing silk blouse and sash under the
jacket, are the easiest models for novice
ct dress making.
By the way. the greatest helps for home
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

pink Surah. Few are
t h e costumes 70 r
young or old not dec
Grated with one or
more buckles the
present season.
Still another is a
suit of blue serge,
trimmed with gilt
braid and brass but
tons; silver trim
mings on green serge
or amethyst trimmed
in silver, gold or
white braid would be
equally effective. At
tention must be call
ed to the many pref
ty jacket effects, SO
stylish, and when
y pmade separate from
the dress, so service
able. These can be
made of the dress ma
terial, but the pIetti.
est are of velvet,
trimmed suit a bly,
with white VanDyke
lace or any of the gay
galoons or passemen-
teries.
You notice skirts
are made plain, a sim
pie style on its face;
but simplicity is de-
ceptive as we'll as ar
tistic. These skirts
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
THE BUSINESS WOMAN.
Men Don't Care AbouI Marrying Her, bu
Like TO GET ut Her ideas.

Men Don't Care AbouI Marrying Her, bu,
Like TO GET ut Her ideas.
New York Press.1
The typical business woman of to-day is
an object of admiration to men and of won-
der to members of her own sex. Men would
not marry her, but they enjoy hobnobbing
with her and drawing out her ideas, which
are generally novel. If they are not always
thought practical it is because other women.
who have not been real business women.
have created lack OF confidence in the
minds of men.
The typical business woman likes men.
and talks to them like brothers. When she
is talking, if she happens to be seated, she
turns sideways on the chair, crosses her legs.
and places one arm akimbo on the bscE.
when standing she crooks her elbows. and
with quick little movement of her tbumbs
she places them in the imaginary armholes
of her imaginary waistcoat. She is almost
always good hearted, mas ready sym-
pathies, and, if she acquires money, puts
he hand in her pocket to help the needy
with more than manly alacrity.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
WOMAN'S READY WIT.
How II Was Applied by Lady Who Was
Frightened by Horses.

There's a peculiar motion, peculiar tc
woman alone" said Edgar A. Elliott the
philosophers St. Louis Republic reporter,
as he pointed to a frightened female on the
sidewalk. ''That woman is frightened be-
cause she fears those prancing horses may
jump upon the sidewalk and crush her be-
meath their iron-shod hoofs. But what does
she do under the circumstances? Does she.
with woman's ready wit. climb that fence
or get behind that big hogshead?
mo, stree; as you see, she is desperately
engaged IN pressing the palm OF her right
hand over her right ear and looking fright
ened. Her object in standing SO still and
retaining that position OF her right hand
against her right ear is to escape rom the
crushing hoofs of that big team. But that's
only specimen of this so-called "woman's
wit"
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
SOME PRETTY DESIGNS.


The thinner wools, batiste, veilings and
delaines are made in the straight, rather
full skirts with hens, and ribbon trimmings,
or tucks and hemstitchings, or insertions OF
the fine passementerie, which is little less
light than lace, but more substantial. The
netted fringe is we'll used with the firmer oil
! these fabrics sewed to the edge of the skirt,
and falling over a fve-inch pleatIng-the
only way yet seen when il looks we'll. The
| fringe should leave two inches of the pleat-
| ing below it clear. The wool skirts are
| finished with rows OF gros grain ribbon
| graduated from three inches to three-uuarter
inch, the trimming reaching almost to the
| knee. Graduated velvet trims brilliantine
and cashmere dresses in the same way; it
cannot be said with very good effect. But
the ribbon trimming on the firm black fish
net skirts is very good.
Everything in house fashions has been
cut, draped and slashed in the manner dear
to manufacturers, because inimitable to any
but the trade, and soon displaced. But the
best styles, issued late and arriving now by
every steamer show much simpler aud
shaplier dresses. Even the tea gown fits the
figure in an easy princess shape, with long
straight bands OF trimming from shoulder
to hem, around the demI-train and down the
full puff OF the sleeve which ends below the
elbows. A pretty gown of the sort is tea
rose cashmere, with three, bands OF oriental
embroidery in pink, gold and blue down
the front, the center one ending at the foot.
those at the side extending above the hem
round the skirt The belt was moire ribbon
slipped under the side bands, with long
loops and ends
A GOWN FOR INDOORS.
A pretty house dress is a princesse in
pompadour stripes, with an overdress pre-
cisely like pattern of apron dear to house
keepers, falling to the feet in front with
wide straps over the shoulders crossing at
the back, while the apron itself covers the
hips, meeting in the back. The effect is
good whether in summer brocade with apron
of plain silk, or the striped challies with
plain wool or baialine over dress, or the
striped gingham with plain aprons. The
costume is finished by a long ive-inch sash
round the waist, tied once in front with ends
hanging nearly to the feet.
Two and four-button gloves are worn with
the long sleevese and CATERS o. fine cloth.
black or match the gown and carefully fitted.
are worn with the low Shoes which il is
a relief to don for the season, Velvet
sleeves give place to those of fine glossy
surah for spring dresses. The newest
sleeves are c1t long, lined with colored silk
or brocade and turn up in picturesque
style.
Fancy woolen brocades in lovely little de-
signs hawthorn, brierbuds, clovers white
and red, or violets in modern variations on
the pompadour style, or in all over cash
mere effects, very pretty with plain clover
green, gobelin blue or Suede silks.
The large headed pins in cut jets, Etrus-
can gold, carved silver, or amber, are again |
worn in the hair, or In toques Jet coronets |
and bandeaus confne the fufy front hair, |
and velvet bands are brought across from |
Vienna. SHIRLEY DARE.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
SHIRLEY DARE ON DRESS,

a Letter For Women Who Wish 10 Look
Well bur Haven't Gold Mine to Draw
UpOu-Strictly Correct STYLE. for Street
Wear.
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPArcH1
There isn't half the pleasure buying
gowns when one has plenty of money!" says
9 shrewd woman with a pretty good notion
Of both sides OF the subject. "The interest
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
westward, ,s. oour., ., Em0,,.. r,,.

We all know the quotation, but many emf
grants westward bound do not know that upon
their arrival they will have to encounter that
invisible foe of the frontIeTsman-maIaria-
They should take an ample supply of Hostel
ter's stomach Bitters along. Not only is IL a
certain safeguard against every form OF ma
laral disease, but 1t eradicates liver complaint
constipation, dyspepsia. nervousness and rheu-
matism.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

HE reason given Dy
a bright girl friend
of mine, when 1
asked why she wore
her hair unfashion-
ably low behind,
was that she wished
to hide the nape Of
her neck. That was
a consequences of the
new and whimsical
science OF napiology.
Phrenology must go.
1t is no longer
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
VIOLET INK THE RAGE,

Tho Ladies HIVE Chosen it Above All
Other Writing Fluids.
New York World.1
Violet ink, once regarded as pardonable
feminine vanity, bas come to be the fayorite
of all writing fluids. 1t has the advantage
over black in that it flows more easily and is
softer to the eye, consideration OF the ut
most Importance to those who do a great deal
of writing. For this reason it has been
called the authors ink, and among those
whose manuscripts are written in violet are
Mrs. Humphry Ward, Katherine Hilliard,
Margaret Deland, Mrs. M. r. Field, Emily
+ Faithful and Edith Sessions Tupper.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

comes in when you
have just enough
to get what you
want by drawing
literally on con-
trivance and taste.
For myself grow
tire d re a ding
about opulence I
cannot hope to
have. The fash
Ion articles treat
of too unlimited
gorgeousness for
ANYTHING b Glow
servant girls i'm
agination, W h o
seldom find flights
too extravagant to
please them. 1
wish somebody
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

more tiresome andis it an enjoyable fatigue
Edward Bellamy and his opinion as mouthed
by Julian West, to the contrary? Mothers
at least do not enjoy shopping, and have no
time Tor it; but to them it's necessary evil
that must be endured. Gladly would they
hail the utopian system Of the twentieth
century, as portrayed in Looking Back
ward"
But, to get back to our girls and face to
face with the fact that they must have
clothes and consider what obtains in way of
fashions for them. The illustrations show
the prevailing styles, which, both for beauty
and utility, will commend themselves. One
is made of challie, cream colored, with
flower effects in natural tlnts; the gimp is
of creamy lace; a two laced ribbon encircles
the waist. This style is equally pretty for
silk, wool or cotton. The new and service
able wash silks are to be recommended for
dressy occasions, and are so moderate in
price as to be within the reach of all. So
great is the variety of designs in these diff
ierent grades OF material that the changes
can be rung on one style OF making with
tireless reiteration.
Another illustration represents girl 10
years old; dress of foulard silk, pink, with
white rings; the gimp and waist band of
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

if they are in violation of good taste; instead
Of forcing her to adopt your ideas and wear
clothes she dislikes, thereby increasing her
painful awkwardness. You know by ex-
perience how impossible it is to be at ease in
mind or body in garments you dislike, reas-
suripg compliments from all the friends you
have to the contrary. You must respect
this same feeling in your daughter If you
would bring about the desired result in
dress. Therefore Dearest" consult your
Little Lady Fauntleroy in regard to what
she will enjoy wearing and, regardless Of
the vogue, she will appear to the best ad-
vantage in her own choice. You will find
her tractable if treated with confidence. She
is early too anxious to dress becomingly to
persist in style if you can show her she is
detractlng rather than enhancing her ap-
pearance.
If she has "grown up like a weed" and is
slender unto painful leanness, explain to
her the philosophy of checks and large
plaids for one of her physique and that she,
must avoid stripes as she would plague;
and that her gowns must be made with the
fullest skirts; the waist must be full and
round; sleeves puffed and throat high; leav-
ing stripes and dotted effects to her ''chum"
who is fat to pudginess and who will
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

ally receive from the newspapers, but most
of them do not. One tall, dark young
woman, whose name appears in every pub
lished list Of guests at most fashionable
functions, has an unslakable thirst for
fame. It was only the other night that she
made one of theater party. Her brilliant
loyeliness was the center of attraction, and
she gloried in the admiring glances that
she brought from the entire audience.
PAINTING TO BECOME FAMOUS.
The play was progressing smoothly when,
at a most serious and important point,
groan was heard in the audience and the
theater party became greatly agitated. Two
young men were supporting the inert form
OF the beauty, whose futtering eyellds and
limp attitude indicated that she had tainted,
There was immense confusion as the men
lifted her to the aisle and carried her out OF
the theater. One of the ladies in the party
reached out and upfastened the fainting
girls dress at the throat, thereby permitting
the patient to breathe more freely, and, at
the same, showing a few snowy inches OF
perfect neck. Nothing could have been
lovelier than the helpless girl as she was
carried tenderly up the aisle, and exclama-
tlons OF pity, mingled with murmurs ot ad-
mIration, were heard on all sides as the
delicate beauty of her upturued face was
noted.
Out in the ladies' parlor the unconscious
girl was soon restored to a normal and bright
condition, and voiced the hope that there
were no reporters in the house. It 30 hap
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25

7" hO 40 Aob ~ Il
appear at her best
in plain, pointed
waist, low throat,
and close = fitting
or open sleeve
Daughter will soon
realize the force of
your argument
and thank you for
it. Take her shop
ping with you, too,
as often as possi-
BILE. This will not
n e C e sarily be
teaching her folly
nor cultivating an
inordinate love of
dress. She must
learn Just so much
of it someway,
somehow and un-
der your direction,
and in tine enjoy
ment of your con-
fdence she may be
taught to h ave
method in her mad
ness, and to select
with discretion and
discri m i nation,
and by and by re-
lieve you of the
fatigue of shop
ping.
By the way, is
there anything
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25


OW a mother breads the
time when her daughter
shall have arrived at the
"gawky period" say be-
tween the age of 10 and
10. when her form and
style are SO uncertain;
manner so uncouth and
ideas convulsive. 1t is
quite probable the girl at
this period suffers as
much In continually
hearing she is crude and
hard to dress, as does the
motner IN Trying 10 traus@
form her awkwardness
into comeliness.
1t is about this time
that the daughter begins
to have decided opinions
OF her own in regard to
what she wants to wear
and, mother. if you are
wise you will consult
with her both in regard
to material and makeup
of her clothes; leading
her out of her own notions
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
DRESSING THE MISSES.

Meg Throws Out Some Useful Hints for
Mothers Whose Daughters Have
Reached the Gawky Period-It 10 Well
TO Give the Girls q Chance.
WRITTEN FOR THE nrep.r,r,,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-05-25
CLARA BELLIES CHAT.
Girls Are Now Wearing Their Hair
So as to Hide Their Necks.
NAPIOLoGY VERSUS PHRENOLOGY.
A Beauty's Clever Plan to Get Her Name
Into the Newspapers.
PRIDE OF THE LADIES OF BOSTON

CORRESPONDENCE OF THE DISPATCH.
NEW YORK, May "a.