The intelligencer. [volume] (Lexington, Mo.) 1887-1891, 1890-07-05
FIRST DAYS IN AFRICA.
A Journey Between the Mouth OF
the Congo and Bona.

A Journey Ihe mouth or
the Congo and Bona.
Vivi Hill. the Base of S~tanley's Operations
The Traditional Dress of an Ex-
plorer-Tho Order of the
Day During II March.
Tho busy little white-roofed settle
ment on the crown of Vivi Hill con
trasted pleasantly with the grim and
weather-bcaUen appearance OF the sur
rounding up-lands, as toward evening
we steamed around Il point within
view of the station.
This station, writes r. j. Glave In st.
Nicholas, had been Stanley's base OF
operations during the passage OF his ex-
petition through the lower reaches of
the river, and was now the down-coun-
try depot. The strongly-built maga-
zines, well stocked with all kinds of
stores, provisions, merchandise for bar
tor, boat-gear, arms and ammunition,
bore evidence of how thorough had
been the foresight of Stanley in equip
ping his expedition. II Is at this point
that tho river becomes unnavigable-
being broken up for many miles by in
II 1 bHlalI nlTlpOoI EapluS-
At Vivi our stay was short; after one
days delay we received our stores for
tho march overland to lsanghela, which
consisted of u fow tins of preserved
meats, some medicines, a little cloth to
buy fresh provisions from the natives
on the road and n spoon and a knife for
each man. Thus equipped, We were to
set out for Isanghcla and go thence to
Stanley Pool. Before daybreak on the
day of our departure we were up and
inpatient for the start.
For the first time ! donned the ira
ditional dress of the explorer and felt
proud indeed Of inc helmet, leggins
and revolver-belt All our belongings
had to be carried by native porters, and
it was a tedious business getting the
negroes into marching order; hours wero
wasted in their absurd disputes before
We could get fairly away from the sta
ton. Each carrier had some complaint
to make about the DAD which was given
to him. 1t was either too big or "too
heavy" or else was ~awkwardly shaped.
However, they managed after a time to
settle it among themselves, and after
much gesticulation and grumbling diff
ferences were adjusted. But / vas grieved
to see when our caravan at last moved
off that the smallest and weak est-look-
ing men invariably carried the heaviest
loads.
Hill after hill we had to climb and do
scend, and many a weary mile we
trnmped through the long grass over tho
numerous stretches Of plains. At times
our path would lead along a curve OF the
river-bank and give us ~glimpses of wild
and magnificent scenery. Now q forest
of tropical trees grew thickly down to
the waters edge, while but a few miles
further bare perpendicular cliffs rose
abruptly on both sides, down whose
sides great boulders seemed to have
rolled into the river. Tho stream,
broken up by rough ana jagged rocks of
fantastic shapes, some of colossal size,
standing out boldly in the general dis
order, bidding defiance to the eddying
current, swept along with a kissing
sound as If angered at the stern resist
anco Of tho rocks.
The ordcrof the dayduring the march
was as follows: At the first streaks of
dawn, after a light breakfast Of q cup OF
tea, %unflavored by milk or sugar. and q
ships biscuit-during which time our
caravan Of porters mado their loads ready
we would move of, and be well on the
road by half-past six, and continue
marching until noon. when we would
rest for the day. At night We would
sleep sometimes or tho fioor of some
native hut, or, II crossing an open plain,
would lie down just as ~contentedly with
no covering but a blanket and a starlit
sky.
During the march | was a~nxiously
watching for wild game, always carry
ing my old Snider ready loaded In case
u buffalo should happen TO cross my
path. 1t was fortunate that no wild
animal offered itself to DO fred at; for,
at that time, had | pitched my skill
against tho instinct of the buffalo, the
result, ! am afraid, would have been I'M
fortunate for me. At Isanghela our
party was divided-half of the men be-
ing told of for service on tho lower
river, while we our Englishmen and
ono Swedish officer wero TO make our
way up-river. Our division started
early on the morning after our arrival,
in u whale boat manned by Zanzibaris,
for Manyanga, eighty-eight miles dis
tant: this stretch Of water Is navigable
only with the greatest care-its surface
is agitated by countless small whirl-
pools which, in places, increase in yio-
lence to such u degree that the most
powerful steamer could not stem tho
current In m~idstream; and the upward
passage at these points is effected only
by hugging tho shore and hauling with
ropes round the rocky corners. The
surrounding scenery is as wild as tho
wa .er it incloses, changing with every
turn of the river; at times the banks ap-
peared thickly covered with luxuriant
foliage; then rounding another bond,
tall, rocky cliffs stood on either side,
bare and jagged, with bases torn and
eaten away by the fierce food.