Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-02-08
THE DEGREES OF FASHION.
what IL Costs tO Maintain . Complete
Wardr0be-The Kind Of Clothes suit.
able For Particular Occas,oms-HWvv
To Dress In Good Taste.
Of THE EVENING stan.

ent, the generallssimo of society, Mr.. Ward
McAllister, has recently laid down the broad
general principle that man may wear a
dress coat at any time after dark 1t makes no
difference whether he be going to the opera, a
dinner or dog fight, he is appropriately cos
tuned in q swallow-tail coat But there is no
law, further adds Mr.. McAllister. that will
permit man to wear a dress coat in daylight,
and the man who does so, he AYERS, is simply
bore who does not understand the usages Of
good society.
OF course there is no disputing SO high an
authority as McAllister and in this merry
month, when there are so many social gayetics
on foot, it is peculiarly appropriate to settle
the controversy; and. it may be added as
matter Of information that not only do New
Workers, young and old, who desire to be con-
sldered well-dressed attend the theater and
opera in evening dress but they make it a
point to get out of the usual humdrum OF busi-
ness costumes by putting on dress coat for the
most ordinary lecture, concert or evening en-
tertainment. The bowling swells OF the Knick-
erbocker club, the Calumet the Union League
and the University club are jast "a regular in
arraylng themselves in evening costume seven
nights in the week as they are in putting on
thUir overcoats to go into the street. These
swells follow the style of London and Paris in
this respect, and even in the New York athletic
club, an organization famed more for its Drawn
than for anything else, are to be seen scores
anu scores OF men In evening dress every night
in the week. Time was, and not so long ago
either. when dress suit was considered very
much OF luxury by the average man. 1t is
not so now. and, thanks to the tailors. dress
suits are made more comfortable. Instead of
being hght-httlng and generally unpleasant
they are made loose and as agreeable in every
way as the ordinary business suit
WHEN TO WEAR DRESS COAT.
There is another subject equally as import
ant to the young New Yorker as the matter of
when and where to wear dress coat. 1t is
what constitutes q well-dressed man! The
subject of woman's vanity in the matter of
dress has occupied the attention of the human
family for so long a period that mans vanity
has been lost sight of. Let us be honest with
ourselves. Men are quite vain women
and the New Yorker who poses as G. club man,
hrst-nighter. dner-out, &C., spends as
much time III getting together his wardrobe as
does the fashionable woman and this wardrobe
costs nearly as much as a trousseau! Without
dwelling on the gorgeous silken underwear.
now furnished at prices ranging from Sc to
$50 suit, the luxurious bath robes, the
variety OF neckwear that is needed, the num-
berless pairs of boots and other accessories too
numerous to mention, it may be said that the
fashionable mans wardrobe is q thing of
beauty, if not a joy forever.
few years ago in New York city one prom-
nent man became a conspicuous character tor
tne reason tlat IL was soIemniy set forth BY
leading metropolitan newspaper that he wore
800 "boiled shirts" every year. or one for each
day. Robert Garrett. formerly of the Balti-
more and Ohio railroad, achieved distinction by
reason Of the vast stock of trousers of many
styles that he sported.
There was time when the leading nevspa-
pers gave up column after column for a couple
of weeks to q contest for the title of the king of
the dudes between f. Berry Wall and Robert
billiard, the actor, the contest to be decided by
the amount of originality displayed in dressing
from day to day. Tho pair dressed in number
less suits OF clothes, of all sorts of patterns and
design, and kept the show up until the public
tired of it.
THE wELL-DREssED MAN.
There are few men who are not willing to
pose as well-dressed men if they can. But it
costs something to dress up to the standard set
now by the first-cass tsilors. and these tailors
by the way, do not class the L. Berry Wall
style OF men as among the really well-dressed
men. The real authority On the art of tailor
ing IN New York city puts it down that the
well-dressed man never dresses after the dude
fashion. 1.-The really well-dressed man now
dresses very quietly" said the artist. There
Is very little difference between the styles here
and in England. The leading styles are set in
England and are followed here. A well-dressed
Englishman and a well-dressed American are
much the same thing, except that the Ameri-
can tailor sometimes improves on the imported
styles"
The same authority went on to say that it is
an impression in many quarters that the prince
of Wales sets the fashions in the matter Of
dress, but that he does not any more than does
his interesting son. who is famliary known AS
collars and Cuffs" On the contrary the
fashions are mainly set by the military men,
the members of the home regiments, who arc
the best dressed men In England although not
always the best payers. The bright an shining
light among these 'milinStary gents" is Col
Owens Williams of the Life Guards, who has
lately distinguished himself by leading q sue
cessful revolt against the using OF corkscrew or
diagonal goods in the making of frock coats
He was the first to have his coats made of the
rough dark goods that are now the proper
thing. The earl Of Clonmel is nobleman who
sets the pace for LondOners, and Lord Ran
dolph Churchill is fixed figure on the fashion
plates. Then there are the Tracys, the STAN
hopes and others who figure in the same line.
THE DAILY OFFICIAL PROGRAM
laid down for the man who wants to rank
among the properly dressed men is rather ex-
tensive. In order to carry it out fully and to
tie letter one spends not inconsiderabie por-
ton OF the day when there is any occasion
calling for the observance of its various parts
In the matter of the morning dress its full
makeup will depend on the locality in which
you may be situated. The broker who is to be
seen on his way TO business in the morning will
be found to be dressed in o dark or medium
sack or cutaway coat, usually of some rough
goods. The trousers, too. will usually be of
dark or mixed goods and the derby hat may be
brown or black. The tie will be OF black satin
with a small pin Just below the knot. This tie
was the fashion about ten years ago. II was
finally discarded, but is coming back into
vogue again. The top coat will be either dark
or medium and the gloves of tan color. With
this attire the broker, il such he be, can face
the cares OF the day without feeling that he is
anything but proper" 30 far as dress Is con-
cerned, and any other business man may do
the same.
AT MORNING WEDDING.
!. The well-dressed man has stopped at his
Office long enough to look over his mail and
transact some necessary preliminary bust
ness for the day, when there is another call
upon him. This time it is To attend o morn
Ing wedding of a friend. A cab is procured
ana In few moments he Is at his home again.
IL Is necessary to change his clothing. Some
time ago he would have donned q frock coat Of
corkscrew or diagonal. But that style has
changed Instead he selects frock coat
made OF dark Saxony CLOTH rather rough. The
trousers are OF light color. white tie, per-
maps, Is selected for wear, or, if not q white
one, one very light in color. A straight. loose
back top coat, dark in color, is adjusted over
all, and then the prospective attendant ut the
marriage ceremony dons a silk hat pulls on.
tavender-colored gloves with black stitching
and he is ready for the fray.
The morning wedding over, there is another