The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-06-14
DAINTY DISHES
That Can Be Prepared to Delight
the Epicures.
How to Treat Crabs and How to Cook Terrapin.
Fish and Meat-Want the First OF Every
thine-All Sorts of Fresh Fruit.

porter stopped before his marble slabs. 1.-THE
wind has been blowing very hard both IN and
down the Coast for several days. and that makes
big difference in tile catch. You know, do
you not. that the fishing is done principally by
means of those little fishing smacks that you see
fitting about Inc bay and the men who manage
them do not dare TO brave boislerous weather.
Often, when IL IS delightfully."- pleasant in San
Francisco outside the Heads, it Is too rough for
the boats. Consequently fish is a little scarce.
No. the price has not gone up any, because 1t Is
our aim to keep it as near the same figure each
day. Sometimes we lose by that arrangement,
and sometimes we gain. But 1t has very dis
turbing effect upon the minds of customers if
they find that prices are subject to fluctuations,
aud therefore, although the wholesale hgures
may change, ours do not"
"Is there a great demand for fish in San Fran
cisco ?" asked the reporter.
There is and it is a growing one. There are
so many foreigners here that that lnsures good
sale, and wherever there are any representatives
OF New England fish is sure to be In demand.
The genuine Yankee has a preference for the
finn 1ibered fish of the salt sea; he Is not much
on river fish, although he does relish shad now
and then.
81 But the truth is Americans do not eat enough
fish. Talk about beef-eating Englishmenl why
they are not a circumstance to the intoxicating
Americans. We have three meals a day, and I'll
guarantee 10 say that III nine out OF ten American
families meat Is served In some form, generally
In It's first shape, mean in chops, or STEAK. or
roaSts, not in slews or hashes. Now, l don't
want 10 seem to reflect upon the business OF the
butcher. but i am sure that II stands 10 reason
that a diet composed of succession OF changes
must be better for The human stomach than one
composed exclusively OF either meat or fish.
Surely IL would be beneficial the average
American 10 substitute bsh for the everlasting
steak and chop of The breakfast table, AS
said. for the sake OF variety We should eat more
fish. and 1t need not be always fried or broiled.
well made fish stew or curry should he accept
able 10 the majority of people with healthy appe-
tites. OF course, The success OF such dish de-
ponds upon the manner of lis preparation. IL
must have
AN APPETIzING FLAVOR
And be daintily attractive. Did you ever
realize that some people eat fsn as
fad2 Take that expensive dellcaey. pom.
PIANO, for instance. Al present 1t Is 81 90
pound. Perhaps you viii wonder who cares 10
eat IL at that price. Well. IFS business maxim
that every one should live according 10 his
means. There are a Jew OF my customers who
buy ii even when it's So pound; they can afford
TO do so and IT'S no afieetaIiOn III them TO DO II.
But then there are others of average incomes
who leave a standing order with Inc like this:
When pompanO Is dollar pound. send ME
some And that is all They buy OF II that season.
Can you Imagine why they buy II at all? II may
surprise you. but know that's it's simply Tor The
pleasure of saying 10 their friends and neghbors,
We've had pompaHo.' Silly, OF course It Is, but
This is the season for shad roe, and 1t is in
great demand A gOOd-siZed one Will weigh
about a pound; this one here" pointing TO a
small one extended upon a cabbage-leaf, 'is II "a
cents, and tt would take three OF this size to
weigh pound. The roe OF the sea-bass sells for
about the same and is in great demand among
Foreigners. The usual way OF cooking roe Is
to smother II In butter IN hot frylng-pan. AL
The clubs a curry OF sbad roe is always down OIL
the bills during the season. 1t is easily pre-
pared. Half an onion should be fried very brown
In heaping teas oOnful of dripping, and tea
spoonful of curry powder must be added. lew
moments later gill OF lot waller is 10 be stirred
N mixture allowed 10 simmer Tor nVe
minutes. teaspoonfui OF nOnr dissolved In
little water is then 10 be added, and, by the way,
don't forget TO keep on stirring so as TO prevent
the flour from Jumping, for OF all things lumpy
gravy is detestable. After the Hour has begun
tOthicken the wafer, II must be strained. While
you are preparing the sauce, you know, you eau
have The gently boiling In well sailed water.
The sauce is then 10 be poured over the roes on
a platter. | suppose you wonder why bother
myself remembering receipts? But IL would be
another surprise II you knew now many people
ask for Information about just such thtngs. There
are ever so many club men VINO are anxious 10
make reputation for themselves as good cooks.
They do good deal OF experimenting. And
since the fame Of Herman Oelrichs as q ferrapin
chef has reached US the FAD will have larger
"Terrapins Why, of course, we have them
all through the year, although they are not al
ways to be found tn the markets. They haunt
the marshy. low lands all through the State.
Our principal sources OF supply are the marshes
around Vallejo, Tulare. MERGED and The Blue
Lakes. They bring 50 so dozen, As all ter
rapin lovers know the damond-backs should be
selected with the greatest ears, They should be
boiled with judgment In water slightly sailed.
This also Is important: no spices should be used
either IN the boiling or In the preparing OF the
meat afterward, as they only destroy The ex-
Qulslte
FLAVOR OF THE TERRAPLN
Itself. After removing the meat from the shell
great care should be taken TO remove the bag Of
gall from tile liver. II this should De broken
and its contents be allowed to touch the meat
you might Just as well throw away the lerrapin,
its flavor VIII have been ruiued. The bones
should also be taken out The meat should be
firm, but tender; never stringy. That comes
from boiling terrapin too hard when the ter
rapin is not what II should be.
The turtles are saltwater animals, and are
brought here from Southern California, MaZatan
and Mexico during the fall months They bring
from 81 so TO $40, according 10 the size. The
last price would buy on weighing $50 pounds
Turtle steak is a delicacy, i eau assure you.
"SpeaKIng of deiieaeies, soft crabs have
their devOlees. AT present the price IS go cents
dozen for fairly EOod-Szed crabs OF thiS per-
suasiou. Do you snOw that a s0ft-shell crab is 4
very particular animal to handle? In the first
place. they must be cooked as soon rs possible
after having been taken from III water, as they
lose III flavor on being exposed to the air. But
they are so lender that they often killed IN
transit oy me sudden Earring OF II IAN Ihs I1l
they have been placed. A sudden fash OF light
ming would strike them all dead. Turbot Is an
other choice article In The fish ine-t is 80 cents
pound; SO is trout. Smell, rock FISH,
Goldfish, salmon, are all 10 cents a pound. Tom
cod are 20 cents, sea bass the same. hallbut Is
y.
time, and tile hsh are getting very thin. Neither
IS salmon good as 1t was two months ago, the
fiber has become softer, and In either smoking
or sailing the fish care must be taken to prOlOng
the operation, otherwise what was enough for
the fish earlier would not keep IL Mt all now.
Sole, founder. sardines. King fish, sturgeon and
perch are each a BIT pound"
g Meat does not show any change in prices"
said The butcher. "Steaks are from 10 cents for
round STEAK up to Is cents FOR porterhOuse.
Legs Of mutton are 8 and 10 cents a pound,
chops from cents To bit, roast beef Is from 10
TO IS cents pound. pork Is a bit and IS cents
Poultry Is just about the same, the farmers
are so busy with incubatOrs aud settling hens
that they don't send In nearly as many cbIckens
as they will later on. Broilers are from four to
81 % each Turkeys are % cents pound"
The stalls are beginning TO become little
crowded." said The vegetable man, with wave
of his hand over the tempting display. "The
winter vegetables have had to take a back seat
to make room for all The delcacies of tile summer
season. Everything that Is in the market is in
prime condition, with the exception of green
corn, aud truly
IT Is MYSTERY
To me why teople ever buy at this price and
In this condition: 80 cents a dozen and not a
dozen plump kernels in row! Well, there's no
accounting for tastes, and some delight In bay-
ing the first OF the season. Wax beans are 8
cents pound, peas cents. string beans sell for
10 cents pound, and asparagus brings from 6
to 10 cents. There is always a choice In aspar-
agus, even In the first of the season. 1t can be
assorted. You know, and epicurrs are always
willing TO pay for The best. Rbubarb is cents a
pound, cucumbers 20 and 40 cents a dozen, and
summer squash is cents a pound. Oyster
plant or satisfy, has just come In. and sells four
punches for quarter OF dollar. tomatoes
ought to be better than any that have yet been 10
| market, but these are the b ST that so far have
been received; they are % cents pound
Spinach is out OF season; what there Is costs the
buyer cents pound. ArtIchokes are 25 cents
a dozen. Onions are eight pounds for Il quarter.
New potatoes are much improyed-are larger
anu ripper; they are aud 10 cents pound
Chile peppers are cents a pound. green pep
pers 40 cents.
"Curranis are so cents box, strawberries 40
and 60 cents, raspbefres Is cents a basket or
two baskets for a quarter. Apricots and peaches
are each selling three pounds for quarter
Cherries are 10 cents box for the ordinary va
rieties. but tor the whit ones in their glory,
| the price is 80 cents. Blackberries are 10 cents
| a basket or 81 drawer. Gooseberries are 5
cents a pound when they are the small ones and
10 cents a pound when they are the large and
| tne-1avored varieties. Fresh figs six bits
pound; that sweet, waiery lille cherry plum,
which Is one OF the first tree fruits TO appear. Is
a Bit pound. Green pears, which, by the way,
make a very nice sauce. are sold four pounds for
quarter.
"Besides he fresh fruit we have some imported
faf Oh nd 70