, 1890-02-13
AF00T IN SPAIN.
Waleman's Wander
ings in the interior.
HELD UP BY BANDITS.
A Tragic Reminiscence OF
More Castle.
HOW A DESERTER Was SHOT
The Victim Brother OF the High
wayman Who Robbed
the Writer.
HOW A DESERTER WAS SHOT

p'eu u Whtl tramp rom lOlNttrlei We
had not arrived at Santiago until about
midnight and II wu- nearly noon OF
the next day when was awakened by a
gentle tapping at the door OF my old
Hlcoua In tine humble inn to which our
humble Gnllcgan guido had conducted
us. Tho tapping proceeded from the
knuckles of hnrsh-yolCCd criHdu or
naid.scrvant who, on my demand that
whoever was knocking should enter,
proceeded first to iuiJtm me that no
such unpuriunuble conduct on her part
could bo tolerated, aud tuOn To- say that
one Pierre F'pguct, having bargaiued
for the iacus he stool IN need Of had
eaten his breakfast kissed tbc sacred
esciayiun, the grand finale Of all
ptlrrimag"s to the famous C4the-
dral Oi Santiago, was now IA.
ticnt.y waiting to bid me a hnIl
adi0s, ancr which' he must speed
lily depart to his own people, at Gle. olato
flnistorre. asked that he be sent TO
nv aitoba. He came numbering and
7Numbling up the stairs, ana hat In hand,
entered the room and approached my
bedside. Poor picrrol lie was in tears,
lie sank upon his l,uccs beside me,
blessings, aud sobbcd like q child 10, We
olaspcd hands Tor the last time. Finally
breaking away, rs e overcome with sad
ness, hc cried repeatedly, "Qucdu us'cd
con do, "Qucdo ustgd tuu Dios ..
CMay you remain with GodH' b-uud
and prccipitatcly disappeared into the
courtyard and Calle below, ! do not
know how others may feel or believe,
but there il to me 50 sacred a. place in
the human heart Tor these accidental
and suppmely luvHl friendships OF lite
that utter Joior would come In their en-
joymcut and but miserable regret uo
prompted In their memory, were there
not secret hope, uuqucnChnblC longing
and uncOnIucrahle faith that there
were timc and place for their rykindlIng
and rc'unJuymvnL
ASCtHSr SANTIAGO.
All there is Of ancient Santiago worth
contemplation Is this wundruus old
cathedral where Pierre had performed
his alteration. How 1t came to be built
and how for centuries 1t remained the
most luminous shrine in Western Eu.
rope, are more strange and curious than
,Stn be told Of any other o: tho noble
u ough decay Ing sacred cdiiices Of Spain.
~. james, the elder, brother ul st, John,
the apostle, was stoned to death at Jcru-
Spain, us is St. George Of England, st.
Denis ut France, ana II. Patrick OF lrr-
land. over loo yCAr ago, in S}i
TuCodumir bishop Of lHa, 80 runs the
tradition, discovered the body OF 1t.
James removed In SOME miraculous
manner from Jerusalem, surrounded by
woudrUus light In dense forest, to
which star led the way hence the
nsmu OF tile city, Santiago de CHmpos-
tcllA, or 81. James Ui the place OF the
star, To which the body was removed
by Leon HI, from the chapCl
already erected vt the place UI discovery
hy Theodimir and Santiago WAS raised
to a see. A corn-rcnt or III NOtu OF one
hushol per acre was collected from all
Spain, yielding a yearly revenue of near.
ly 81 i,OpO,uDO, which was continued until
SO. The present cathedral is not a
single Crati0n Ola single architect or
period but has been the result of untold
Nutive offerings since the first wOudruus-
~ splendid bnsiiiCa was built by Alfonso
the Great, between the years Sh and
DlO. This was destroyed the tomb OF
81. James alone being respected, by the
yandal, Al-Nau-sour, at his capture Oi
the Cityi rebuilt by Bishop ueluirc2 in
lOs2; and completed In ll2S, Bermuda
H., In the llth century made cytruOrliu.
,kry repairs and additions. This dcyOut
uAulsh King also built great ROADS,
Which still exist rs national highways,
find over which more armies have passed
than any other roads in Europe
within the Christian era, for the pil.
g.ibs from France and those from Cen
trail spain, for Santiago was once the
most irequontcd aud celebrated shrine IN
,hristondOu. An entire page would be
required to give adequate description of
this noble ediiicC; but the chair-stalls,
carved by GUgorio E-panol in 1905; tho
bronze pulplts, bY tClma, la 1853; the
massive, magnificent and unr.valod
Portico de Ia Gloria, tho mighty western
entrance, and the tomb and ethgics OF
st. James are all unoquaed examples ia
ecclosiasucnlurt. Tho latter two are won
dernl indeed. Tho sculptor's theme
upon the PortiCo de Ia Gloria
is the Last Judgment, with
Christ proceeding from the root
OF Jesse. This representa- ion is illimit.
ably more than enough To have given
Mnteo Immortality as 'el Maestro of
Spain. Its v0stness, grandeur, deep
poetic feeling, and marvellous reality, In
which the ilinty stone glOws with ra-
diant life, are. believe, beyond com
pnrisOn with any known sacred subject
Of the sculptor art to be found ulsc-
where In Europe. In the center of the
Cnpilla mayor or chioi chapel rises n
great altar oi jasper and marble. Upon
this sits the eiligy of ~. James, hubited
in u pilgrims escluyina or long cloak
OF silver and gold, gltterlng with ru-
bio,, sapphiTcs, oupralds aud diamonds,
Near Is another eiHgy of the
kaint with an auroula Of fubios and ome-
yfalds, and at his feet the statues of four
knocling kings. Again 1t. James Is rep
sented at the battle of Clayigo Staying
inlldels who arc falling about him In
hundreds Four great COluihns rise near
these elligies Upon each is seated the
figure OF IAN angel. These four angels
support tho tomb itself high in air, and
an immense star OF blazing gold is Sis
pended above tho tomb. Not So very
long ago. 1000 lamps, burning incense
hung boloro this shrine. Behind the
great alter, marble steps permit pilgrims
to ascend tor the Tin del tlmage or last
act of pilgrimage, which consists of kiss
ing the hem of the sacred csclavina cn.
folding the eiiigy of the saint.
To THE INTERIOR.
But as enhancing us were the treasures
at tho most rare aud wonderful occlesias.
tical pile of Northwestern spain, was
impatient to reach tho interior. sccur-
ing the company Of band OF Maragatos,
ON their way with II drove ofpack mules
from Santiago to Astorga, In the prov
<fncc Of Leon, | ,ssod three days and
- nights upon tho mountain roads
with my strange fellows, rnuletccrs who
are descended from tho Moors and still
wear long tassels to their caps, and
breeohes ~ wide and corpulent with