Sacramento daily record-union., 1890-07-20
SOME POINTS ON CARVING.

something on sauces, but also the proper
way to carve different meats, game and
poultry. Nowadays too many hosts are
obliged when they entertain to appeal to
some one of their guests for assistance in
carving, something that may be annoying
to the former and certainly is troublesome
to the latter. The first thing to be seen
to by those who wish to carve well, is that
they have the right kinds and sizes of forks
and carving knives, and that the knives are
well sharpened and the forks strong and
well pointed. In order to carve well it is
well to stand up, and as the pieces are cut
off they should be placed collectively on a
dish to be handed round the table, so that
each person may select the piece that he or
she prefers.
"Any one can serve fish," we often hear
remarked. Of course, but how does it look
when pulled to pieces? To serve trout,
mark with fish knife line starting from
the head and extending within two inches
of the tail, and then draw other lines start
ing from this one and running to the sides
of the fish. A salmon is served in the same
way as a trout, while blue fish should be
divided longitudinally; then remove the
large bone and cut the fish into pieces in
such way as to give each person a portion
of back and belly. Barbels are served in
the same way as trout, and club the same
as pike.
Nearly every man you meet caryes leg
of mutton badly, end yet its tenderness
almost always depends upon the way the
slices are cut of. There are two ways of
doing this. When you see that the leg is
from a sheep of good breed, and that it is
really tender, take hold of it by the
knuckle with the left hand, and then cut
the slices perpendicularly from the Joint
to the bone of the fllet; then remove the
muscle from the knuckle, next turn the
leg over and slice off the back portion.
For this essentially primitive way of cary
Ing gourmets substitute carving by curvili-
near slices, which renders the piece more
succulent. But neither of the ways of
carving leg of mutton should be resorted
to except when the meat is of the best
quality and of great tenderness. In other
cases the best way to proceed is to cut
horizontally instead of perpendicularly-
that is, cut off the slices parallel with the
bone; the slices should be cut very thin,
and when a sufficient number have been
sliced off you should plunge the fork into
what remains of the leg several times and
let the gravy run over them. A few drops
of lemon juice and little pepper and salt
added will improve the flavor amazingly.
Americans have much to learn about
carving game. The wild duck is not al
ways tender bird, and it can be made
tolerably tough in the kitchen. A canvas
back duck should never be cooked less
than fifteen nor more than eighteen min
utes, and then in very hot oven. 1t
should be carved in slices, and in cutting
the wings and thighs are sacrificed. Most
wild ducks should be served so underdone
that blood will run when they are sliced
up; the juice of two lemons should be
squeezed in their blood also add few
drops of oil, little salt and some pepper,
after which let the slices soak for some
minutes in the gravy thus prepared before
they are handed around. In the case of
teal duck there is no need of cutting off
the legs and wings. A woodcock should
not he drawn what drops from it when
cooking should be caught on toasted
piece OF bread ON which the bird is 10 be
served, seasoned with salt, pepper and
lemon Juice. In carving, first remove the
legs and wings then divide the body
lengthwise. The wing is the most delicate
morsel, but the thighs have more flavor.
Do not throw away the legs and bones un-
less you wish 10 commit high culinary
treason. Mashed in mortar, they will
form puree that will give an excellent
flavor 10 a black gravy which you ought
to serve with the bird. French gourmets
inclose the head ofthis bird in coating OF
tallow, broil over a candle flame and then
eat it. 1t is only mouthful, but it is a
divine morsel. Snipe should be cut in two
longitudinally. To carve a partridge, first
remove the right leg and wing, then those
on the other side, and next divide the
body in two lengthwise. Only young
partridges should be roasted; the older
birds are better made up in salmis or
stews Quail is best served in thin slice
of bacon and inclosed in grape leaf 1t
is also cut in two, like real reed or rail
birds, and larks may be treated in the
same way.
THE FIRST TURKEY
Ever seen in France was served up on the
26th of November, 1870, on the occasion
of the marriage of Charles TX and Eliza
beth OF Austria. There are more ways
than one of serving turkey. One way is
to cut from the breast square slices, and
proceed in the same way with all the
feshy parts of the bird. Though this is
an easy way for the carver, it has the
drawback Of allowing all the natural
grevy 10 escape and leave all the most deli
alo al, al a.
you may remove the legs separately, place
them to one side, and then do the same
with the wings, but cut them up in pieces
OF suitable size; next cut off the white
meat as close to the carcass as possible,
and lastly break up the carcass. A third
way, after the wings have been removed,
is TO break the carcass above the crupper,
which remains attached to the legs and
forms sort of hood. vulgarly called the
bishops cup" This is good way to
serve. Carve when there are only few
persons at the table; if the guests are
numerous the second way is the best.
Chickens snd capons are served very much
the same way as turkeys. The legs make
two pieces, the wings three, the white
meat is left in whole slices and the car
cass is separated into six pieces.
ChlcKens ana caponS are much improved
by the use of truffles, but trufiies cannot be
obtained everywhere. Moliere owed the
4 title of one of his masterpieces to truffies.
He was dining at Chantilly with the
Prince de Conde and the Secretary of the
Papal Nuncio-a purple-faced, red-nosed
monk, who never opened his mouth except
to fill it with food. The only thing he
said during the repast was when the sec
ond course came on, and then, clasping his
hands in great delight at the sight of a
great dish of trufiies, he exclaimed, 'Tar-
toffalli, tartoffalli"-the Italian name for
this tuber. His sensual ecstacy impressed
the word on Moliere's memory, and ont oi
it he made the name OF Tartufie, which be
gave to his celebrated personation of sane
timonious hypocrisy.
Rossini was also exceedingly fond Of