New-York tribune., 1890-03-30
uTHE BOSTON OF MEXICO,"
WHERE STREETCAR CONDUCTORS SHAKE
HANDS WITH ALL THE PASSENGERS

more frequently visited portions Of the Mexican Re
pnblic two months sojourn during mdwnter in
the Boston of Mexico" enables TO subsantae this
assertion in far that. this winter having been
fair type of those of preceding years no Inconvenience
whatever was experienced from chillness or damp
ness although the mercury on several occasions
sought a level sufficiently low TO have caused as
comnt in the absence Of artificial heating appliances.
Although the hotels Of Guadalajara are by no means
up the standard of the hoselrics of the states they
will be pronounced fairly comfortable by the traveller
who willing. for the sake Of the delightful climate
to forego his luxurious bed his BATH carpets ana
the numberless convenences he is accustomed at nome
TO look upon as necessary TO his comfort. Inc ioou
Is good and well cooked. Fresh vegetables ana liu'S
Of all sorts are plentiful. The meats fairly ender
the poultry and fish unfailingly excellent Inc pieau
is of all qualities TO suit all palates. Coee ana Tea
arc delicious the milk is not good and the butter Is
execrabcaftcr a sojOurn of any considerable lehs'h
In Mexico the eating resident OF the states VIII
wonder why he looked upon that unctuons SUD
stance as a natural and necessary concomltant to
meal The Hotel Cosmopollta IS under the manage
OF educated German, who Is eager to please
HI, American patrons But he is not TO blame for the
inadequate appointments Of his house. which IS the
property Of Mexican: and. as have elsewhere
stated the average descendant of Montezuma thinks
tic habits and customs of his forcfathers quite good
enough for his day and generation and refuses TO
see the need Of modern Improvements.
Guadalajara lies IN fertile valley watcred by
numerous streams and lakes. Its altitude is 5.20O
fcri 1t is $50 miles northwest of the City of Mexico,
and is reached from rapuato by a branch road of the
Mexican Central Railway. II is present the ter
mimi, Of this branch road. but there + talk Of con
tuuing. in the near future the line to the Pacific
Coast via Colma. which will open 70 traffic wonder
fully rich and productive region. The climate Is mia
and slluhrou. the temperature maintaining an animal
OF 30 degrees Fab. Frost is and then only
ou the higher levels and cnvironnG hills The city
With iu f,Vpu mi
All directions and has a population of about 10000.
Tie san Juan de Dios an inconSdcrable stream with
many wlnding> divides il into two parts; the older
aad smaller portion the east bank Of the river
fctiin. it, ancient name. Analco. and contains The
hsiiatiou~ Of the pcon class. To the antiquary
Nraco will prove the more attractive portion %
tuadaaJara. and even the tourist Of modern tastes
ard ideas will find somewhat interest him In the
row washed ont streets which sometimes from
for TO feet below the curbsand the sloping pave
mrr. rfcn at an angle which renders walking difficult
l1f any creature less a-c than the bare footed peon
ar -.at The tramwav 10 the suburb Of san Pedro
la.-o, through Anaco and through the ancient citv
lai,.-a remnant Of the old time spanish occupation.
To streets IN the modern portion Of the city cross
one another al right angles and the important
n them are paved. There several we'll shaded
parks u believe tie plaza is a dominant feature of
ctf.v Mexican town.. and excellent band of music.
composed chiefly # lads. PLAYS I'M the III Mayor near
the Cathedral two or three evenings I'm the week.
Ou such occasions the Mexican citizen L. seen 10
greatest advantage. The entire population assemble
in the piaza I'd and Young. rich and poor ,enor and
pc1r. lace and ado. lounge on The bcncho-
underneath the orange tree stand about in group,
beneath the sia-llt XIV.
Iut nowhere is this indi-crimirstc ninrlnc Of the
sa--eS~ with the masses seen T. better advantage
than I'm the churches There are no high priced. luN
ur.ou- Icw> for the opulcn sinner. stael, verge"
% conduct the well dressed wor>hiprcr 10 point of
Vsntalc. or feoNn into obscure corner the un-
washed pcnitcnt. IN the church the lowly pcon en.
JOYS equal rights and privileges with his hci'cr>.
side ly side. elbow 10 elbow the tiled floor luce the
-Stiful I'm lace and broadcoth with those in tatcrS
AID sandals, have naughty sonora drop t.
her knees just inside the church door. and not once
ictray with eve lips contemptuous indignation be
her passage to the front was barred by score
Of ragged bcssars.
The dwellings in modern Guadalaiara are mostly sub
stantia stone and brick structures. The private houses,
ot one two and sometimes three storcs-n which
the lower story is devoted 10 business purposes
built with the usual patio, or open court. IN the IN
tc~ior and the wsndercr along the streets may ocoa
sionally catch glimpse. through the hafopcn iron
bound entrance door leading 10 the court, Of flowers
and sparkling fountains. and sometimes. too Of dark
eyed senOiitas. The windows Of the lower story are
barred those Of the upper floors open on narrow
balconies. where the women Of the family sit OF an
evening 10 enjoy the balmy air, or-who VIII say r.
exchange cances with the swarlhy caballcrO passing
below. The churches and public edhccs are impOs-
ing The streets have air Of chcerfGlness and
activity: building and repairing be seen in every
quarter Of the city. \ magnificent markethouse Is
approaching completion, which, when finished, Will
compare favOraby with any building Of Ike caracter
in the world The general air OF ncatness and ccanl
ness which chsracterzes the tloroughares Of GuadIa'
lara may DO attributed TO stringent city law which
requires every householder to keep clean that portion
of the street in front Of his dwelling failure % com
plv Wit The rcrl IA
imposition and collecting Of which there IS no delay
Consequently, sunrise every morning finds All army OF
poems iudustriously brushing together, with their
short punches OF broom scdgc, the accumulated
filth of twenty four hours into little mounds which
arc promptly collected and cartcd before break
Isttime Tho manners Of the Guadaajaran are In
keeping with the chccrulncss and fricndlncss Of this
city, Imagine yourself entering a strect-car III New
York-or any other city of the great United states
and before taking your seat bowling, hat IN had, I"
your fellow passengers, none Of whom YOU have ever
before Then, suppose yourself arrived at Your
destination, you IIsc, smile friendly farewell 10
the car In general, shake hands with the conductor
and. with polite inclination Oi the hcad iac cdNe
Di tnc driver The number Of times have WITNESSED
suc exhibitions OF poiteness convince me mat II Is
one OF the customs OF the cOuntly-ad GOOd one 10
xaopt a. ! found 10 my advantage. Ny courtesy 10
the conductors Oi the Guadalajara Lamcais-nahy Of
esSyin jealous students oi the English language
Oh any complaisant Amcrcano-enabled me 70 gam
a deal of information concerning tic mexican
and his country which is not found between the
covers Of the average Guide to Mexico"
There Is less meMdicancy III GuadaaJaia tilan any
other Mexican city Of Ike Importance The pcon
laVOrcr happier aud more content with his
lot and even the III used little burIo seems more
clipper and frOlicsOmc. Manufacturing Is carried
OH considerable extent, the city being all I'M
pOrant distributing centre for larg: ana productive
area of country. Among the most important IN
du,rics the weaving Of cotton wool ahd SILK; the
manufacture of leather gOOds. hats pottery cigars
and cigarettes the famous Tcpc tO.aocO j. used IN
tine manufacture of the latter. There are several
printing and hthOgrdphing establishments. The
public scAOOs-amOng them school OF art-a"c
admirable. The public buildings are the Governors
palace a handsome modern structure fronting tho
Piazza Mayor: the Casa Municipal. the Ca-a dc
Moneda, the BibOtcc: Publca, which contains over
10000 volumes the Ho>piciO de ohrc,, the Hospital
de Bccn and the PcnctcncariO. which IS said
furnish accommodations for 5000 criminals. The
markets are numerous and excellent There arc
four theatres the Tcaro DegoadO, the Principal ihe