The morning call., 1890-12-07
GoWN WoRN 1N "ANYE Ro1EyNn

dotted with black, finish this marvelously
pretty gown. With it was worn what
Miss Abbott terms her Surprise MANTLE
and its brilliancy and coStliness is indeed a
surprise to all who behold it. The material
Is the heaviest brocade ever woven at LYONS:
OF peony design in full size. The garment
is fitted to the form underneath deep tai
ma, and is four yards in depth from neck to
foot of trail.
1t is lined throughout with brilliant sun
Hover colored satin. and embroidered in a
deep roman design in gold. The back and
sides are covered with golden pennants
which extend frcm the collar to the waist
Inc. The collar is known as the Abbott
collar, and rises at the back to form set
ting for the head and face The entire
mantle, collar. taIma, and train are COM n
pleted with heavy border of ostrich tips to
match the lining. A more beautiful or
elegant garment were difficult to imagine OF
design.
A Troyatore costume is the lion dress of
CRIMSON, white. black and gold, in satin and
velvet The petticoat is OF red, with ara
besque design in black and gold. The skirt
and train proper is Of white satin with Dor
der OF gold embroidery, aud loo2s high on the
LETT side to disclose an immense lion rampant.
ne corsage Is low. with antique sleeves, on
each OF which is a lion rampant. This is
one OF the most gorgeous Of the entire ward
robe.
The riding-habit worn in "Martha" is n
marvel OF beauty, wrought III white satin,
leweled embroidery and emerald velvet.
Inc skirt OF white satin is draped high with
massive jeweled cord and tasselS, and re-
veals the emerald petticoat, bordered with
pulls Of Jeweled satin. The jacket is of
emerald. slashed below the waist line, each
point leweled, and the sleeves are composed
of puffS OF white satin, with emerald bands.
embroidered TO match the rest of the cos
tune. Elegant point lace collar and cuffs,
and hat If emerald velvet with white
ostrich feathers, make up one of the prettiest
costumes ever seen on the stage.
One Of the costliest of all the prima dom
mas dresses is one worn in ANNE Boleyn,"
81 moss. green velvet and shrimp pink satin.
This is in colors and design an exact COPY of
The Queen Anne dress on exhibition in the
Louvre, but its cost is many times that of
the royal garment.
vet, and the garnlture is something never
seen ON any stage costume. The design IAN
intricate one) is cut away in the velvet
appliQued on the pink satin. An idea of the
work on this costume may be obtained when
Ills stated that the margin OF each design is
so closely embroidered with sef-colored silk
that 1t resembles the hand woven fabrics of
Queen Anne's time. This applique or cut
away work forms half-yard border on the
skirt and train.
The costumes worn in bal masque are all
ornamented with jeweIed bands. One of
pale blue velvet has bands of dark blue.
jeweled in silver. The upper part of the
corsage is formed of puffs OF light blue satin
held III place by the bands, and long sleeves
are similarly formed. The train is
heavily embroidered. Another costume of
pale lilac satin has bands of pansy velvet
aud a third of rose pink is decorated with
bands and sashes of green velvet with alter
nate rows of gold and silver embroidery on
the skirt and train.
A peasant dress of Irish point lace is ad-
mired by many. The skirt, neck and sleeves
are finished with border IF fuchias design,
and this, like the famous Linda dress, re-
veals in all their beauty a neck, arms and
shoulders Of which an infant might be proud.
Many of the profession have asked for the
secret of Miss Abbott's clear complexion
and baby. plumpness, and long newspaper
articles have been written regarding the
course OF cosmetics used by her. Like all
professional people Miss Abbott uses "make-
up on the stage, otherwise there is neither
paste nor powder. Notwithstanding her
arduous labors, seven performances per
week and almost daily rehearsals, the close
OF the season finds her as fresh as its begin
ming, and the secret is temperance in all
things, generous nature, warm and pure
heart.