The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-12-26
BEAUTY AND
THE BARBER.
Well Dressed Hair the Finishing
Touch to a Bellies Looks.
Transforming Power Of the Capillary Artist-A
Scene Before the Ball" Movement"
and What 1t Means to the French.

cAu W iidt IL 1acd0S W tu6 z TeuCu.
The finest dressed lady over, say so, who
ever stepped out OF Worth's hands must
look dowd IT her hair is dressed in n
fiat and lifeless style. When she issues
from the fingers of a Partisan hair
dresser she is confident that her head is
all that it should he, namely: of capital i'm
portance in the harmony-and so enters a
room with erect carriage, at once easy and
stately, and shows the feeling in her eye and
manner. No art will make Il face younger
than its age, writes the Paris correspondent
of the New York Commercial Advertiser
But it can help to make one OF 80 as pleasant
to behold as though it were only 80. The
gold and russell tints CT woods in October
(Which shows the old age of the YEAR, are not
hidden, but brought out by the sunshine, and
and are not the less but the more lovely for being
so. l dare say it was on this principle that
powder was invented for heads that were
growing gray. The honor of the invention
belongs to France, which alone has regarded
hair-dressiDg as a fine art. There is no
greater trial to Franch lady going on visit
to another land than having to do. without
her professional hair-dresser. She can have
his help once a day for about 40 francs IA
month ii he is to come in the forenoon, and
for about 10 francs If the visits are to be in
the evening. 1t is far better for her to be
dressed in cotton than in silks and laces. if
with the former she has her hair done up
by him, whilst with the finer apparel she
has to trust entirely to her maid. The
femme de chambre has not the lightness Of
hand or invention Of the professional hair
dresser, who dresses few score of heads
daily, and varies his mode according to the
individual, and takes into account the toilette
which is to go with every coiffuIe. One
must have seen the transformation capillary
artists work to believe in them. An instance
occurs to ME of an American lady fresh to
Paris. Coming here, she had her HAN, which
was brown
TINGED WITH AUBURN,
Arranged in dense mass. Color and tex
ture We're lost. Her long face looked horsey
and her profile hatcnet-like. She was big
oted In her mode OF Embarrassing. A French
lady persuaded her to let a certain M. Au-
guSIe operate upon her head. She came out
OF his hands looking almost handsome. He
raised and expanded the head so as to dwarf
the nose, and lightened and enlvened the
hair, bringing out its FURNISHED tinges and
fine texture. Before lie operated lie exam
ined the dress (black velvet trimmed with
duchess Lace which she was to wear, and
saw that the style to be aimed at was a no.
one, tempered, as ne himself put H.
with feminine grace"
| know no sight more interesting than
that presented by French beauty and her
belongi gs when she is being done up by NJ.
Aueuste for a ball. He looks upon the pro-
fesslonal aid he lends her as uue sacerdore
The toilette table is lighted up with wax
candles as brilliantly as high altar, and
unshaded lamps are placed on mantel and
sconces. A miraculous result of the dress
makers art, in which laceS, ribbons, feath-
ers aud rich sa;ins are brought into har-
monious combination, lies upon an arm
chair. There are pettcoais to sustain it
stiff within, and billOwy and hubby. with
pulled muslin and ValencienneS, or fiounced
with surah silk in combination with this
kind OF lace, OF, still better, with Mechlln.
Tie surah is meant to harmonlZe with the
dress. 1t may be tan to go with deep brown,
or salmon pink to go with deep rose, or
deep blue to keep company with sky-blue
train, or simply white. In any case, it is so
charming as to make one hope that 1T will
not be wholly hidden. Waiting would
have raison d'etre if only TO afford gliMpses
OF such combinations of surah and lace.
An opera cloak in the richest and
softest stuffs lies on the pillow of
sofa, and somehow is SO lightened by
feather trimming that one expects
it to float in the air. Open jewel
caskets reveal the soft glow of pearls and
the glittering scinuilatioGS of diamonds.
THE LADY SITS BESIDE A TABLET
Denuded of its usual toilette accessories
save the P0mpadOur mirror. She wears a
lawn dreSsing-gOwu, ample as a surpice,
but dlSllnguishable from one by the guam
tlty OF lace that ZigZags in a soft ''easeads"
down the front. A white-apr0neu femme
de chambre is busy with gloves, fans, pocket
handkerchiefs, that might be manufactured
with b,eached leaves laid on spiders webs
of dazzling whiteness. Utter seriousn SIS is
expressed in every face. Indeed. a solemn
stpl lie ha OF Vba md ,f
might deranger les idees de Monsieur Au-
guste, who Is making survey of the fineiy.
he takes up the skirt of the gown at the
belt, holding it from the ground rs high as
the waist of his fair chente, studies the
movement" of the train-foldS, lays the gar
ment deity where he found it, and then.
placing his fingers in the arm-holes
of the corsage, holds that part I'D,
paying particular attention to the
outline OF tine bust. The jewels aad faBs
are glanced at by him. This done, he goes
and stands behind the head on which he is
to opei ate, looking intpntly into the glass
wherein it is reflected. The femme de cham
bre places herself beside him TO hold hair
pins for him, or such aids 10 falling nature
as false tresses. Auguste has plan III his
head. A skilled potter manipulating clay
on wheel is nothing to him in dextcrity
and invention. As the capillary structure
springs up. the physiognomy takes clearly
defined character. Auguste sometimes asks
to see tue neck aud the part of the bust
which is to be shown in the ballroom. He
scans them with purely professional eve
as The surptce dressing gown falls from the
shoulders, and corset of some delicate tint
OF satin comes in view with lawn and lace
trimmed garment, sleeveless and exQuisiteiy
dainty, peeping up frGm It and elinglng to
the bust. One has modern edition of ely
tie rising from her lotus flower. place your
head in profile" saws Auguste. II want to
see the movement of your head and neck"
The French are always wanting to see
MOVEMENTS"
If they condense speech they think chiefly
of giving its movement. The be-all and the
end-all of their pictorial and sculptural arts
is TO render movements" The profile and.
half-profile are studied an instant in the
toilet mirror. Nor is the nape of the neck
and the back of the shoulders neglected
When the couture is got through the cap
Hilary artist steps into the next room until
pett!coats, robes and jewels are dnnned. He
then comes back to look at his subject, and
to see her in cheval glass. Pehups he may
see occasion TO revise the couture. Not that
there has been any bunging, but the move
ment Of the dress may be different on the
weaIer from what it was merely in HIS
hands, OF the hair may need q trifie more of
symmetry, or dignity, or general careless
ness, or life, or diablere. l look upon Au-
euste as being great artist Aususte
doing UP dowager is just as interesting
say, the June of her CHARMS. He acts on
the principle that youth being the time for
saving, old age is the period when wealth is
to be enjoyed and displayed. And what II
wealth of stiff eurls aud braids and feathers
and jewels he heaps upon her head to give
the impression Of a strong account Mt the
bankers, and draw attention from heavy
penduloas cheeks and the abrupt outlines
Of the upper part of the bust. He makes
her stately, but not severe. Availability be
an1I
mellow sunset on a snow scene. The dress
is also studied. but there is not the same at
tention paid to its movement, the dowagrr
being sedentary figure in a ballroom. In
shert, she is said to be tranquille CONNIE
une image, and as much covered up with
lace contriyances as possible. Massive jew
elry becomes her, If not used in excess
The bigger and more lustrous her brace
lets the better, and instead of sleeveless
ness or baby sleeves awful things for
dowagers, and still so often affected by
them, let there be half sleeves falling to the
elbow, and ended off with lace frilling that