Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-09-20

~ "hu . PROOF tndt tneee runners were
swift. though the course was often rugged.
u Is asserted that fresh fish caught
one day on the seacoast, used to be
eaten BY the inca the next day in Cuzco,
more than three hundred miles away! The
messengers were especially trained for the SER
vice, and wore n distinctive uniform. Each had
his allotted station, between which and the
next 1t was his duty to speed along at q certain
pace; and when near the station at which he
had to transmit the dispatch or parcel to the
next courier. he had to give a signal Of his ap-
proach, SO that the other who was to carry it
farther might be in complete readiness and no
time be lost In these respects the old times
must have been an improvement on the
postal service Of today. and dispatches going
from one part of Bolivia to another are liable
to be rendered useless by long delay.
Few years ago, when the government ex-
tended the Inca road beyond La Paz in the di-
rection OF Obrajes, the work was begun with
reigious ceremonies, presided over by the
bishop, assisted by the priests, the president,
the diplomatic corps and other prominent per-
sonages. In cutting through a hill close to the
city the workmen came upon a number Of
crushed and buried houses, skeletons. house
hoId utensils, &C., doubtless the work OF an
earthquake at some forgotten period,
THE INDIANS.
Along this wonderful mountain highway the
degenerate descendants OF those who built it
are everywhere to be seen, with faces which,
IN shape and feature, closely resemble those on
the ancient water jars dug from the tombs. 1t
Is always cold at this altitude, and the Indians
nave a queer way of warming themselves by
PhinS all available covering upon their heads.
leaving the lower extremities entirely bare.
though nature has provided each with a heavy
shock of coarse hair like a name, he draws a
knitted cap tightly over his head and ears and
puts a folded blanket on top OF that. Both men
ana women perambulate the earth with naked
| Ieet, the former with ln~a alan muph aynnsa1
70 the weather, their short black trousers slit up
ABOVE the knee and the loose cotton drawers
mapping like patent fans when the wearer
walks. Their adobe huts, brown, solemn and
expressionless, seem off the same piece as the
brown, silent and solemn owners, who, cult
waiting their poor farms. driving their llamas
or sitting by the waygide with eyes fixed upon
vacancy, do not deign to bestow o passing
glance upon the traveller.
THE CROPS.
Alternating with acres of stones are fields Of
barley, now yellow and ready for cutting,
though at this altitude the stalks are headless.
Othcr helds, freshly planted or just being
piowed. are covered with. clouds of blackbirds,
industriously searching for worms and seeds.
women and children are digging potatoes that
resemble chesthuts in size and color. There is
considerable snow in places between the potato
mis-, but as those tiny bulbs are all TO be frozen
before being considered fit to cat. an extra
frostbiting will not make much difference.
somewhere toward noon We stop at u wayside
tambo for breakfast, an adobe casa Of comfort
able size, the corral for mules and cattle in
front. all inclCsed, like a fort, within walls of
adobe as high as the house. There are no
chairs In the inn, but boxes turned
up on end. with planks laid across.
serve well enough for seats. The floor Of
the eating room is only mother earth,
undisguised and unadorned; the wall, close
overhead, is a thatch of clean straw, and the
plank table is covered with a strip of coarse
sheetlng; but. what Is most to the point for
hungry travellers who have been riding five
hours In the chilly weather on nothing but a
cup OF coffee, the breakfast is much better
than might be expected. 1t consists of cabbage
soup, hot though watery; beof, for which dem
lists ought to pay "A premium, with fried eggs
on top; BUTTERFLIES bread. a trife sour, and
coffee: each dish served with ceremony in sepa-
rate courses to the tune of n dollar a head. Dis
played Tor sale, on shelves around the dining
room walls, are tin cans of salmon, sardines,
pickles. &c, and bottles of native beer. cognac
and other liquors for the benefit Of those who
are willing to pay about ten prices for inferior
articles.
TOWARD TITICACA.
At this typical tambo the horses are changed;
and after half an hours rest we again tuck our
blankets about us and 90 bowling along toward
Iiticaca. On one side the mountains follow us
all the way, a nearby wall of snowy peaks.
their tops piercing the clouds. Midway be-
tween lilimani and Soratto, those stupendous
sentinels that stand one at each end of this
journey, rises Potosi. SO famous in the past for
Its silver mines, whose lesser height attains
something over q 900 feet. 1t is said that the
marvellous richness of Potosi was first discov-
cred by an accident. Early in the sixteenth
century an Indian named Diego Icualca was
chasing a vicuna on the mountain side when,
happening to slip on the steep ascent, he
seized hold of a shrub to steady himself. The
bush tore loose from the ground, and what was
the Indians amaZement to see a quantity of
pure silver clinging to its roots. Knowing the
rapacity OF the Spaniards, who had already
possessed themselves of tho country and were
searching it for treasure, he determined to
keep his find a secret. Unfortunately, now
ever, he had one confidant, a slave, who be-
trayed him. So the mine very soon became
public property. and though during the next
three centuries more than 80, 904, $50, 900 were
taken out OF 1t neither Diego nor his descend
ants realized a penny Of that prodigious
amount. That the modern Indians are not
guilty OF the indiscretion OF telling their Sc
crets may be inferred from the comparatively
recent case of Sonora Poso. who lives near the
foot OF Potosi. and a faithful peon whom she
had befriended. Desiring to show his graft
tude to his benefactress he revealed to her
the fact, long known among all the Indians of
the neighborhood, but zealously kept to them
selves, that on a remote part Of her estate was
a gold mine, OF whose existence she had never
heard. While on the way thereto, accom-
panied by the sonora and her agent, the In
dian suddenly fell dead at their feet, shot
through the heart by an unknown hand.
IN THE VILLAGE.
About 4 pm. this stage Of our Journey is
concluded by the arrival at Chililaya, as DESC
late and uninviting . village as one can readily
find. Its principal street, struggling for some
distance along the lake, is exposed to the chilly
winds that constantly sweep that highest navi-
gable body of water on the globe and colder
airs blown from the Andean snow fields on the
other side. The place is important only as the
western terminus of the Titicaca steamers that
connect with the railway running across Peru
to the sea. There is q hotel in the village, but
the tourist is advised not to brave its terrors if
there is any other alternative. The little
steamer will DO lying at the wharf when the
diligencia arrives. and although she sometimes
does not sail until next morning, one can 90
directly on DO ard after the luggage has been
identified and passed through the custom house.
One incident only fingers in my memory con-
nected with the few hours stay in Chiiilaya.
We were invited to the house of o hospitable
German, where luncheon was served. in course
where the ladies were going.
.'Al over South America" was the reply.
''They are travelling for pleasure"
"Mein Colt in himmel" calculated the as
tonished Teuton, lifting his Dyes and hands
h%eavenward. .'Trabbling for pleasure and in
Bo-lee-ha!' FANNIE B. WARD.
A ISaby's Boot and q Skcin of Wool
A baby's boot and q skein Of wool,
| Faded and sOiled and soft
Odd things, you say; and no doubt you're right