New-York tribune., 1890-06-13
ALONG A RAINLESS COAST.
THE NORTH PERUVIAN DESERTS.
CHANGES IN PHYSICAL FEATUREs-RAIN oNCE
IN SEVEN YEARs-pErRoLEvM FIELDS AND
ENGLISH cAp1TAL-IsoTBERMALL LINES
SUDDEN CONTRASTS OF VEGETATION.
rRox srAry CORRESPONDENT OF THE 1RBUNE

ENGLISH cAp1rAI-IsoTHERMAL LINES
SUDDEN CONTRASTS OF VEGETATION.
rsox sr.yy CORRESPONDENT THE IRlBuNE.
Payta. March 3.
TIE Peruvian coast from the Chi'ian
frontier al the River Sama to the Ecuador
line, is virtually rainless. but the physical as
rects Of the phenomenon are less conspicuous
there than IN the southern reaches of barren Gin
ard desert plateau from africa TO Coquimoo Inc
mountainous sea-wal recedes; the sand dimes
widen. and the fertile valleys through when
the Andean streams triclkle sluggishly are fresh
IN their verdure Some Of these oases IN the
maritime desert sugar plantations under cui'i-
walton n few miles from the sea. From the Bay
of Callao there is a far-reaching vista OF ier'he
bottom lands where several valleys are inter
locked and walled up in the East by the spurs
of the Cordillera. Pisco. with its sandy barrens.
is the gateway to the vineyards OF Yea, where
delicious grapes are raised for wine. At Chimbote
a DAVIS run from Callao, there is one OF the best
harbors TO be found on the coast. and there is
an admirable site for a f1ourishing city on
shores protected from the high surf and wide
rolling swell of the Pacific, but owing TO per-
yersity of human nature peculiar TO the rainlesi
belt there is no shipping In the bay and there
is no town where there ought TO be one. Higher
ND the coast there rivers which have worn a
passage through the maritime range and brlnS
foaming torrents from the heart of the Andes
all the year round. In the northern province OF
Piura. where the seaboard is rounded out into
the wcsternmost promontories of South America
there is the largest and most sterile of the Peru
Wan deserts-a region pierced by three rivers
which meter run dry. vet bare and unproductivc.
This is the last of these coast Saharas TO he seen
as one journeys northward to Panama. The CUR
of Guayaquil is the limit of the rainless belt Which
stretches southwark and eastward 1000 miles.
The Chilian desert coast is bordered by con-
tinuous line Of red and gray palisades 1t Is
barren and monOtonous. yet always bold. and
sometimes not without elements of rugged majesty.
The Peruvian coast has no compensating scenic
advantages for its vistas of dreary desolation
The maritime hills in the background veiled
with mists ard their shadowy shapes are without
pcturesqueness of outline differing markedly from
the majestic mountains on the Atlantic seaboard
Low, shelving slopes end in ragged shingles OF
sponcy beach, over which focks of guano birds
are constantly circlng in their fishing excursions.
Even tho glimpses of the river valleys are dls-
appointing for these often very narrow near
the sea. and such vegetation as there may ne
has an unnatural hue. as if it were nourished
by foul drainage instead of water filtered from
the snow beds OF the Andean submits The
Chian towns of Tarapaca are inexpressibly dreary.
but there are signs of life. hustle and commercial
activity TO be discerncd in their streets and road
steads. The Peruvian coast villages, which nave
been promoted to the dignity of railway ports. are
landing places with few adobe huts. The last
state of a fishing village converted into the
terminus Of a coast railway is worse than the
first. The simplicity of cluster Of huts among
the cliffs disappears when railway sheds and
drinking saloons are added There is no promise
OF growth and industrial progress in these rail
way ports
Even the climate degenerates as one goes north
Iouique, while compelled to pay three cents
gallon for distilled sea-watcr and denied all
glimpscs Of the world of vegetation. apart from
tie gcranium stands in its seaside beer saloons,
has an cquabe and dry climate which cannot be
excellcd. The Peruvian coast has all the desolat-
ing effects of rainess zone without the com
pensatng advantage of dryness. From May TO
October there is fog, and the air is often raw.
At Lima the mists are a substitute for rain, and
ranges of hills barren at other periods are clothed
with vcrdure, yellow lilies and wlldfowers for
D few weeks in May and June. Even in the heated
term there is sense of dampness. and the atmos
picric condition familinrly known in New-lork
as humidity is reproduced. At sea mist is n-
frequent from October TO April, but during the
remainder Of the year navigation Of the Peruvian
coast is rendered both difficult and dangerous by
dense fogs With dTenching rains III the Andes
and thus driZzling garua at sea 1t Is most remark
able that the coast is not visited with frequent
showers: but while it is denied that privilege,
which would transform the physical aspects OF
its deserts and barren cliffs, it is banketed with
dampncss for many weeks Of the year: p.,.,.
seaboard is remarkably free from fog, and has
q climate almost as dry as that Of 1quique. The
temperature is higher, since the equator lies lies
is not so intense it is on the same parallel
on the Atlantic side The town stands at the
base of yellow sandhils surrounded By genuine
deserts. more dreary and melancholy port
cannot be found on the seaward edge Of the
Sahara. Captain IIullah, OF the Coquimbo. pro-
duced a glass which enabled me TO see tree
on distant hill, but that was the only sign of
vegetation in that scene of desolatiOn. The
houses are built Of reeds pastered together with
mud. The roofs are thatched with reeds and
straw, and the sidewalks are falling apart and
ragged with rents. In dusty plaza there is
church with frame towers coated with adobe.
meaner and .drearier. until the naked slopes of
the sandhills are reached. The town
has population of 5000, mainly Indians and
halfbreeds. 1t once had large share in the
Guayaquil hat industry, but the natives in the
interior no longer send their stock to shops where
goods cannot be sold II is the chief shpping- point
for the interior, and is connected by railway with
Piura, larger town; but, notwithstanding these
advantages its commerce and industries seem to
be wasting away from sheer inanition.
sEvENTH.YEAR FLOOD AWAITED.
The American Vice Consul explained 10 me why
the town is now languishing. 1t is the outlet
for cotton district which is dependent upon a
heavy rainfall that occurs once in seven years
Ordinarily there are only few light showers In
the course Of the winter and often there is 10
rain at all from the beginning to the end of the
year but periodically there is a month Of drench-
ing rainfall. Then the rivers overflow their banks
the valleys are inundated, and the soil is fer,zed
for the crops Of several successive years Those
are years of plenty, when two bountiiul cotton
crops can be raised in season, and when even
the hill-sides hanking the coast are covered with
verdure The enriched soil retains sufficient
moisture from these freshcts to yield abundantly
for three or four years. Then follow years OF
6carcencss when cotton fails and all other crops
are light and unsatisfactory. The last rainy
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