The sun., 1890-01-12
WINTER FASHIONS ABROAD.


One Of the popular men-milliners of Lon
don has some very original and decided ideas
upon the subject OF woman's dress skirt,
which should be- according to his theories, a
clinging. softly fashioned affair. without steels
or stiffness OF any kind, and should DIT like q
sheath instead Of standing out on frame OF
wire and buckram. Some Of his conservative
lady customers plead for a single hoop In their
dresses but this he decidedly refuses to supply,
because he would rather have three
hoops than one. In order that the skirt
may be consistent even II 1t Is
old fashioned. Sara Bernhard Is his ideal
customer and he has recently designed for
her dream OF artistic beauty in the shape OF
tea gown. 1t is OF lemon -colored silk with
just a light touch Of tilleui green. and 80 fine
and soft that 1t would almost pass through o
lady's ring 1t has no pad: no steel. no fac
inRs Of starched muslin and lace. not even a
hem in the ssirt..-nothing but, softly flowing.
bottom. very beautiful idea, Of a bodies
emanating from the same fertile brain
zouays Of pae pink A Satin Sso rose petals rsine
very high on the shoulders and encircling the
1Sf IKE ess H For GrS he
is usually composed of two colors, ivory and
AnSher PhH ffSssdn eF w6 Hf6
a wide sash of corded silk it's folds crossing In
e on the SoGce saa TAKEN fe ae the
back and tied at the point OF the basque.
The model displayed was In white and yellow.
but the idea has also been carried out in white
and black The latest novelty in bodices. how
ever. is a decoration Of embroidery in Paris
fitted before the embroidery is done that its
lines may follow those OF the figure, and there
is something very refined and disttngue about
recently worn being OF black satin. decorated
with violets-the name flower Of the owner
very charming day dress Of moss green
cloth and velvet, the bodice figured with grad
uated black moons in front and small ones all
Of ono size at the back. was recently the sub
lect OF very curious as well as, admirinR atten-
that no one could Imagine how the wearer ever
got inside it. 1t was made without seams. ex-
cept the one on the side whore it fastened
cealed as to defy detection by even femi-
nj nine e. eyeSS. yea , There was was only one seam
the skirt was made In the new fashion-to
faste1 over the bodice. Another pretty model
IN eoben VIE POp
velvet to make second edge to the border
This bodice. too, was puzzle as to fastenings,
tom to show glimpse OF velvet skirt be-
neath.
Since afternoon "Rt homes" are given by
gas light. very smart little dresses are worn
usually OF some bright shade OF color. A
lizard green silk, shot with red and striped
with black moirG, is trimmed with cascades of
the color Of q ripe strawberry Ns is trimmed with
velvet OF darker shade. and has Huguenot
sleeves Puffed at the @ top and tied in with velvet
scription. at which dressy high necked gowns
are appropriate; the Directoire dress Of last
the picturesque Charles dress and vandyEe
gowns OF velvet with embroidered points OF
o @
decoration. Black silks are also worn. bright
ened with passementerie OF shaded silks or
Paris embroidery. One popular, model had
high epauetted sleeves. tucked skirt, and q
pink. and Gobelin blue. The polonaise fast
ened at one side beneath border Of this ex-
In the general revival OF forgotten fashion
fas been restored 10 favor. and It's piumage Is
used principally for muffs and in headgear.. 4
Swedish mufr OF gr6be, with a border OF otter.
lined, with, cardinal and decorated with q
bunch OF ribbons OF the same tint
In wedding gowns white seems to have
advantage over other materials. and lace wells
The aScendancy over tulle. These lace wells
are worn thrown back from the face in q man
ner M called h hshocklngly brazen by those less for.
i'Alencon. The dress is made as simply as
possible, and with a very long train, and |
orange blossoms are applied sparinRy. while |
n other ilowerS, including even myrtle. are |
abooed entirely by Partisan fancy. The ladies' |
'f the family forming part OF the wedding |
procession all wear trains. usually in velvet. |
md 4 though much variety IN color is manifest.
.ray In a bright. silvery shade. Silver gray
'elyet and sable Is an exquisite combination, |
Ind one warranted not TO become at all COM
non. the Czarina gown In this combination
las tine bodice cut In one with the skirt. the
light front crossed and fastened over the other
tbs sdss RSaa e fur hSa Is
With II Is small steel capote frightened with
teel beads and embroidery
Gray is ono OF the most popular colors OF the
eason. both for plain and dressy toilets.
Ioung girls wear pearl-grsy polonaises edged
With gray feather trimming and their older
listers sport dove-colored plush coats. with
Ugh ElizabethRn collars, hieh-shouldered
'earl-gray velvet coat OF the Louis XIV. pattern
5 decorated with coquille frillinR Of pale
ose pink Rrrophano completed with a Gains
,orough hat OF gray plush plumed with rosy
ippOd gray feathers.
The popularity Of blue is by no means con-
ned to millinery. for several elegant toilets
ave been recently composed entirely of Its
nd the bodice trimmed and toned down with
strakhan. SeVTeB-biue velvet in the form OF
pOlisGe. sweeping the ground an inch or two
emmed with Russian sable or Orleans blue
a q Prinoesee robe of velvet. with narrow
Anels or 9uiils Of the Rids marked with ara