St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-08-31
THE AUTUMNAL TOILETTES
Styles That Govern as September
Draws Near.
FOR MAID AND MATRor
Hints That VIII Aid Adornment and
Yet Repress Too Audaci0us
Fancy.


the delicious present. The long sum-
mer days are devoted to a ceaseless
round of gayety, and the women don
their most fetching gowns, while the
men dance attendance OH them in the
ornate neglige toilets permissible our
ing the warm weather.
In medieval chateauX the costumes
of the old chatelaines are reproduced
and picture costumes are the rule.
There is mingling of all ages and of
bygone combinations not altogether
true to history. There goes a pensive-
faced girl in an Indian muslin
embroidered in gold, with all too
scanty skirt and bodice cinct-
ured just beneath the bust. She
looks like a picture from one of the
pages of book of beauty. In contrast
to this sweet but costly simplicity is
cOQuettiSh young matrOn arrayed in the
Vatican style, with long spindle waist
and short full skirt of shot silk, with
panniers of old blue and silver brocade.
Then there are lOng-necked women IN
sweeping gowns of stately damask with
stomacherS of precious stones and with
flaring Medici collars stiff with broidery
of pearls and gold.
Princess dresses are. however, more
the rule than the exception, and
woman with faultless figure, provided
her dressmaker is an artist, looks almost
like mail-clad statue in the f0urreaur
skirt and bodice all in one. An evening
toilette of black net embroidered i'll
bead rings or scales of mother of pearl,
admirably conveys this idea, the filmy
fabric being adjusted over petticoat of
rich black royal armure, which reveals
the sinuosity of the 1.-the form to per-
lection.
The transparent muslins from Delhi,
Arabian stuffs III quaint designs of red
and gold, and the endless variety of
diaphanous fabrics from the looms OF
Lyons are most in favor with Partisan
elegantes. There are sprigged and
polka dotted organdies worn over
Slip of cream India, silk or one of pale
mauve. maize or crush pink; with these
are donned long scarfS or embroidered
mouseline de sole or silk net closely
plated and finished about the neck
with thick ruching of lace.
Fine white or pale tinted embroider-
les from fancy trim India linen morning
dresses, or the useful gowns of Japan
csc silk are bordered with handmade
lace, made by the peasants OF the
Vosges. The most elegant dresses for
dinner are those of black or white gren-
adine, over whose surface is scattered
rose garlands, branches of mysotis or
small detached rosebuds. Linen again
fashionable for neglige toilets and is
striped in inch-Wide satin stripes OF
black. gold or rose on cream OF fame
colored ground; they are generally
made with jacket, beneath which APP
pears vest and sleeves of black or
let or silver braid. The Stanley cos
tune. called in honor of the new-made
bride of the dauntless explorer, is use
full for cloudy days; there is simple
round skirt of white wool with crimson
stripes, and over it short paletOt
closed with buttons; the small tOQue is
of white felt, trimmed with a simple
knot of coquelicot velvet, with two
diminutive blackbirds in either side.
For cool weather jackets are de rigueur,
the fayorite colors being scarlet, marine
bIue and cream white. For dreSSy oc-
casions mantles of black lace, either
round or with long abb gallant fronts.
are the thing.
The Louis XVI. mantle of change
able silk trimmed with check ruching
of fringed silk is an exquisite little wrap
for driving and promenadlng. one OF me
most becoming and elegant hats is the
Duchess of Devonshire in white straw
or crinoline with panache of daffodil-
eolored plumes, held by knots OF sky
blue velvet: this is suitably worn with
lipht costumes of silk or null. The
TrouviIle hat of rustic straw, wreathed
with appIe blossoms and verdant moss.
is charming for. young faces. Small
tooues of black English straw are use
fuI for general wear, and are trimmed
with great roSettes of crepe lisse or
rayeled silk in contrasting colorS. The
Carmen Jacket, sown with gold or vel
vet bangles, small bells or crescents,
is worn with tOiletteS OF all KINDS, the
waist being appropriately finished with
a bright-hued Roman sash or one or
embroidered gauze. Bolero jackets OF
mi-fin gold makes magnificent CLINT OF
color upon sOmber toiletteS and they
now come so that they can be taken off
| and on. not being run into the armholes.
Rainbow gowns are the latest thing,
| the coIors shading from dark to light.
| each color blending by lmperceptlDle
| gradations into the hue.
Charming matinees are made OF the
| Japanese robes of printed SILK or cotton
creme. or in the soft and light wool tex
| tiles i'm light coloringS. The back is
| crossed by breadths of ribbon or en-
| broidery passing beneath the arm, and
having the fullness relieved IN a How
ing Vatican that crosses IN front, are
brought well up beneath the Dust, CIV
ing Josephine effect to the corsage.
Quantities of lace are used upon them,
or many tiny ruffles and knots OF I'D
| n
Matinee Jackets of seft French null
in pinks. turquoise blue and heliotrope
are worn in the house with silk skirts,
and are. in full Grecian effects adjusted
to the figure by plaltS at the back. A
! novel stvle is one of their silk accordion
plated, simply hemmed and falling
| loosely below the waist: over this is a
| boIero of brocade or velvet edged with
| grelots of paSSamenterle.
| Wide empire belts are as much in
| favor as ever, although none but women
| of slender mould should wear them.
| Among the new colorS are lime leaf
and stem green, hedge-rose pink and
| jasmine yellow. Green is now as much
! worn by blondes as brunetteS, but
something white should be interposed
| between it and the face. Old rose. it is
predicted, and the various tints of terra
Gotta and mahogany, will be in vogue
for the fall season.
The V-shaped bodice seems to grow
more decollete, until now the sharp slit
almost reaches to the waist line. The
half-low bodice is much more comforta-
BILE than that with the cadet collar or
the stifiy-wired Valois, although to the
majority of women the high-throated
bodice is most becoming. softening the
lines of the face and concealing the lack
of rotundity. ETELKA.
Against Unions.
Miss Nordhoff. daughter of G. C.
NordhOff. of Washington, is not friendly