Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1890-09-28
IN THE OLD COUNTRY.
THE ANpERsoNs ON THEIR TRAVELS
THROUGH EFFETE EUROPE.
4 London Hotel That Would DO for .
Richmond Tavern-Living There and
Cost--Wonders Of the City.
rcorespondence Of TIE Richmond pispssch.I
Pans. Snnfnmber 10. 1890.


I cut NV last letter. rather short under
the apprehension that your editor might
endorse on IL the fatal words: Declined
on account Of its latitude and Longitude
Not that cared. but hated to have tho
Richmond public sustain so heavy loss
through any indiscretion of mine. L IN
tended 10 resume with an account OF our
visits in Holland to La Hague, schevenin-
gen. Delft. &c. but will content myself
with saving that we spent n delightful Gay
At the former in visiting It's churches, gal
leries. palaces, and prisons. Among the
latter the most interesting by far was the
dungeon in which Cornelius dc Witt was
imprisoned more than two hundred years
AGO and from which he was dragged ana
torn 10 pieces by the mob. "A large stone
SINK in the street near by shows the
exact spot where his poor remains were
hung upon the gallows, after oil the flesh
had been hacked away by the knives OF
the assassins. Among the churches was
one several hundred years old, whlcn Is
now used as headquarters for lottery
sad diversion from the worship OF uou 20
the service OF the devil. The palace OF
the King was a very ordinary structure Oh
two or three stories high, ana 1 saw no
evidence of the royalty within except
stiff soldier marching about IN front OF IL.
am sure some of our millionaires az nome
would despise it rs residence.
AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE.
We returned TO Rotterdam in the after
noon. had dinner, and were sauntering
down 10 the station 10 take tho train for
London. when all at once l rubbed my
ewes and imagined | was on Tenth street,
for there rounding corner came ola
Henry Hutzler, with his specs on his nose
And looking like ho owned the whole
place OF course we fraternized imme-
q report that nearly shook the caps
of the round heads of some old
Dutchmen near by. Nothing would do
but we must go back to the hotel
and see Mrs. Hutzler, and after
pleasant half hour we resumed our jour
new Railroad travelling differs very much
from our methods. The locomotives are
yery small, have no cow-catchers, and
seem TO be essentially different in mechan1;
ism, but they run like jack-rabbits for all
that. and often make sixty or seventy miles
an hour. The coaches have only two
frucks. or sets of wheels, and look like toy
carriages beside our big Pullmans. Each
one is divided into about four distinct
sections, holding eight or ten persons each.
You get in from either side and are
promptly locked up by the guard. Ihere
half the passengers must ride Win theH
backs TO the locomotive.
ONE sIcK, THE OTHER SILLY.
One OF the inconvenience OF this ar
rancement Is that you have no protection
from disagreeable people. We were IN
6rst-class COUPE, but two young women
formed part Of our crowd and raised high,
links for couple Of hours. They talked
necessarily, pulled each others hair down,
and finally produced bottle, which they
Hospitality offered to the gentlemen. All
declined, but the fair convives were not
to be denied, and took so many and such
potent abdominal supporters" that one
got sick and the other silly. Away
went tho train. d tOute cpesse, while
panoramic scenes OF lowland l0vellness
fitted by. Broad fields Of every shade OF
green. with ne'er bush, nor weed, nor va
cant foot of ground. Grotesque little
dwellings. scarcely larger than overgToWn
dog houses, and odd-looking wlnd-mllis'
swinging their long arms IN the breeze
few swiftly past. Thousands and thou
sands of beautiful black and white cattle
dotted the landscape and we were sorry
when the shades of evening at last smut
out the view.
TOSSED on THE WAVES.
At Flushing we took a steamer for
Greensboro, England. and all night long
were tossed upon the waters OF the stormy
North Sea. The antics of the " Maasdam"
in q gale were trifing gymnastics TO those
cut up by our little steamer now. 1ou
have seen duck washing in pool. 80
did our little craft behave. First ITS nose
and then its tail was in the air. and be-
tween times il had severe sPei1s OF the
know whether was constructed 70 stand
on nv head or my hindlegs. With my
back braced against the door and one loot
ON the edge of the berth | tried TO minis
ter TO nv suffering companion, who, IN
tently studying the bottom OF TIN basin
as if she were looking for pearls called
Justify for New York" every time there
was more than ordinarily vicious plunge
EVIDENCE OF CIVILIZATION.
On the way FROM greensboro to London
we had the satisfaction OF contemplating
q specimen OF real English nobility ana ms
daughter in our carriage. They seemed TO
be unconscious of our presence, ana we
did not make them aware that they were
travelling with genuine American SOW
ereirps. ! noticed, however, with satlsfac-
tlon that the baronisl nose, duly adorned
with gold eyeglasses, was stuck between
the leaves Of O copy OF STlOn6 Md9G-
zine. while the noble Miss RECALLED herset
with Rarpsi's Bazaar. After TINS evidence
respect upon these representatives OF an
sfete monarchy.
MIGHT DO FOR RICHMOND.
Arrived in London we descended" Gas
onr French friends would say at the First
Avenue Hotel, in Holborn, and found eX-
callent quarters at s2per day. This house
Is by no means one Of the best, but would
be considered night good tavern in Rich
mond, as il has about 800 rooms, IS oeauti;
fully fitted up, and has electric lights and
bells everywhere. The dining-room walls
were set III black marble LOT about SIX tee1
and the balance beautifully frescoed ana
gilt. The ceiling was sustained by nu-
rnerous large columns, with marble bases
and g,lt capitals. The windows were
stained glass. and twenty grand mirrors
set In the sides made the room seem OF vast
dimensions.
We took our meals either in or out OF the
hotel at our pleasure, and SO cheap was
everything in that great city that We founu
our total expenses did not exceed "a or %
per day.
rNafIsH BYEr AND MUTTON.
The restaurants furnish mutton-chops or
becfsteaks at lC cents, and such meat at
that as would make George Run and Mad
dox Brelll and Brother faramb roll up
their eyes until only the whites would be
visible. Ice-water, however, ~ pracucaiiy
unknown to these people, anu IL you OIucl
q glass Of it you will find IL figures in the
bill at a penny or two cents OF our money.
They also charge four cents always for
your bread and butter. the latter being en-
tirely innocent of salt, but very nice and
sweet.
And now. where can one begin after brief
fortnight spent amid this vast human hive
OF five million souls. to nsrrate the scenes
and sights of interest that crowded every
day! Their mere enumeration would
stretch this letter TO unreasonable length.
St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Alb
hey were, of course, among tie
first places to be visited. The form
or built, as everybody knows. by
! Sir Christopher Wren two hundred years
ago, is the most splendid building IN Lon
don, and cost S4,0O0,000. 1t is 500 feet
long, $50 feet wide, and 1855 feet high. la
the library are thousands Of old theologi-
cal books, now rarely opened. and also an
interesting collection of seals, autographs
Of kings and bishops, and other curious
things There is gallery around the in
side Of the dome ll2 yards in circum-
ference and soft whisper can be distinct
~ heard from one side 10 the other.