Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-11

9sthetIcism in the domain of woman
might be- translated absurdIty. 1t
would be matter of surprise if a careful
record was kept of all the fads, and If
all could be done that is persisted by the
preachers of this gospel, and the disci-
pies would find a day of twenty-four
hours too short. That, with time spent
with hair dresser, manicure, face beau
tifier, form improver, chiropodist, DEL
sarte, etc. ETC.. there would be no time
between baths and treatment to enjoy
life Then too, the extremists make
bondsmen of those min!stering in mate
rial things, and life becomes more of n
struggle than comfortable existence
exaots.
This bit of moralizing has been in
duced by reading sentence in which the
writer says, each woman should adopt q
perfume adapted to her style. There is
no arrangement given, but it is fair to
suppose that the woman of iorid COM
plexion would use ''mille fieurs;' she
that Is frail and colorless, "white lily. -
Exactly where Jockey club would fit in
and other odors of fancy names is not so
clear, but we suppose astheticism is
equal to it. Please excuse the diversion !,
we will return to bonnets.
1t is approaching the time when sum-
mer bonnets will disprove that a thing of
beauty is joy forever; just three months
is the limit and JOY departs. Already
there are hints of autumn and winter
gloves. 1t is SAID that brown will be a
favorite color and felt favorite mate
rial. Felts will be principally in light
colors and of shapes innumerable, many
of them bordering on the fantastic. A
he8rt-shaped white felt is shown with q
wide brim in front arranged in very
attractive manner, long ostrich feather
shaded with deep petunia to pslest mauve
filling the tiaring brim. Other feathers
in the same lovely coloring soften and
conceal the outline of the Gown, and
droop over the hair at the back in verv
graceful style. Ostrich feathers are sure
to be much worn, but ribbon, especially
the velvet-lined, will prove q formida-
BILE rival in hat trimming and will be
wider than the past season. Strings are
not to be worn, as boas and cuffs do not
admit of their use. The style of neck
wear also necessitates com bing the hair
well up on the head, and is now dressed
with very few ornaments.
The styles for dresses thus far shows
little change, fashion seems to be pre-
velopment. In the earlier autumnaI
months lace will be still used on every
thing, i'll white as well as black, in skirt
tiounces and fichus, forming long point
in front and around the arms in the back
like a Figaro jacket.
A form Of trimming that is sure to be a
favOrite Is the ooquille which is only 4
pleated ruflie or plain strip turned back
ward and forward forming jabot. The
corsages as well as skirts are adorn ed
with it, whether in silk, gauze or lace.
1t Is the result of the long prevailing
feucy for volauts and llouuces and is
used with them in obtaining effects. The
coquille on the side of the skirt and
uniting with the Volant is much en-
ployed and makes a pretty frou-frou on
the straight aud untrimmed skirts. The
coquille of lace which makes line down
the skirt, Is oft the continuation of q
broad yolant which is arranged on the
back of the corsage, forming coquetish
basque finish; with this the open sleeve
with the ruffled edge in the style Anne
'Autriche are worn. To avoid the rep
etition of a simple fiounce, the heading
is changed in various ways; one of the
newest is to put Il ruche of small knots or
torsades of ribbon around the top of the
ruffie.
Again the heading is gathered three or
four times, forming little puffings be-
tween, or gallons and fancy trimming OF
various kinds are arranged IN graduated
rows about the skirt above the fiounce.
A changeable glacee silk may be trimmed
with a deep fiounce of white lace, with
successive rows of black or dark colored
velvet ribbon, with very Louis XVI,
effect. Sometimes also a broad EN-
broidered or bead worked band, or an
entredouX of passementerie eRciroles the
skirt above the fiounce. The volant is
often cut comparatively narrow in front,
running up much higher on the sides.
The whole tendency is for more trimming
on the skirts and of a fanciful nature.
Light colored materials are much trimmed
with black ornaments.
Among the morning and travelling
dresses for autumn are woolens that
show large waters of darker or lighter
tint than the ground. The preferred
colors are wood brown aubergine purple
and composite blues tinged with gray.
The material is draped as simply as
possible upon an underskirt of silk. Tho
jacket is made to lit at the back, but has
a straight front, which, if the tint of
the homespun or bsize be neutral. may
be faced with brilliant silk tartan,
matching the blouse with which it is
worn.
A very pretty house dress is of silver
gray delaine, the bodice finished with
fold sleeves that are puffed at the top
and have buttons ana simulated button
holes at the waist, the sole trimming of
skirt and bodice being the same.
A simple gown of black serge has a
plated skirt and blouse or skirt waist,
with only rows of stitching as trimming.
The skirt waist is without lining and has
a broad box plait in front fastened by
Jet stud buttons, and there Is also q
breast pocket for a watch. A shirt yoke,
deeply pointed in fhe back, is ne atty
stitched on the edges and the only full
ness is that held in small plaits at the
line of the waist. The collar is turned
oyer and worn with wide bias scarf of
black foulard tied in a large bow. The
belt is OF undressed kid, fastened by
three narrow straps buckled in front.
They are also wide ribbed silk belts,
with buckles of black passementerle, in
which dull jet beads are introduced, TO
be worn by those dressing in mourning.
For an evening dress in light mourn
ing, black silk null is pretty material
made with low bodice draped across
from side to side, showing no seams,
large but soft transparent sleeves of the