davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Maryville times. (Maryville, Tenn.) 1884-1944, 1890-03-05
ON COLLEGE HILL.
Local and Personal at Maryvllls
College az Seen by Our Special
Correspondent,

profs. Wilson and Cate are able
to meet their classes again.
Miss Cora Upton, Of Loudon coun-
ty who was in school last year was
on the hill Monday.
Rev. G. A. Duncan, Of Jonesboro,
attended prayers in the chapel last
Wednesday morning.
Misses Enola Malcolm, Mollie
Caldwell and Mamie Mckinley
have been sick during the last week.
The Athenians had society Sat-
urday night. The Alpha Sigmas
and Bainonians adjourned over.
Last Saturday was Arbor day at
New Market Academy. Several
Of the New Market students attend
ed.
Come to the Demorest contest in
the college chapel Thursday night.
Some of our hest speakers are in
this contest. Good music.
Mr.. J. d. Nuchols, a former stu.
dent, was on the hill last week. He
is now attending the medical COL
lege at Knoxville.
Sturgeon Penland now carries
the college mail to and from the
Post oflte. He says that since he
has gone into the mail business he
has become Immensely popular
with the ladies.
Remember the Y. NJ. z. A. Con-
vention the last of this week. The
first meeting will be held Friday
evening at 7 o'clock. The people OF
Maryville are requested to attend
these meetings as they will certain
ly be of benefit to all. J. B. Mill.
gan, State Secretary of Tennessee
and G. X. Ober, International Col
Iege Secretary, will be here ant
will assist in the discussion OF thu
topics. Show your interest in Y. M
q. A. work by being present Will
NJ at these meetings.
The entertainment given BY tn,
Y. NJ. G. A. last Friday night va
we'll attended. The following wa
the programme. Recitation, 9TH
Prisoner Of Chillon," by Miss Lo'
Edmondson, Recitation, "Courtin,
by Miss Lillian Colmar. Both thes'
'recitations were we'll spoken ant
heartily applauded. Then came
burlesque sermon, by Major Will A
NcTeer. Text, "Every tub mus
stand on its own bott0m-ah.
"Found somewhere between Gene
sis and Revolution-ah." This wa
certainly an amusing piece and thu
delivery showed that Major Melee
was familiar with the style Of tn
preacher of Eye olden time" Tn
remainder of the evening was spen
in social enjoyment and every on
present seemed to enjoy himsel
splendidly from Sherman Greer t
Kin Takahashi. More than fiftee
dollars was realized from this en-
tertainment.
The Maryville times. (Maryville, Tenn.) 1884-1944, 1890-03-05
MARYVILLE. TENN, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5. 1890

gentleman said protection sounded
more sensible.
Every thing quiet along the lines.
Barn building still going on in
community of Big Gully H. c. T.
The Maryville times. (Maryville, Tenn.) 1884-1944, 1890-03-05
Dissolution.

Notice is hereby given that The
firm Of Hastings 4 Moore have by
mutual consent dissolved this day.
All matters of the firm have fully
and completely passed into the
hands Of Linn@us Hastings whs
will collect all debts and pay IN
firm claims. Mr.. Hastings wishes
q continuation Of patronage.
This Feb'y. l4-lSsO.
N. l.. HASTINGS.
w. A. MOORE.
Thanking our patrons for their
patronage in the past, ] most hear
tily recOmend n. l.. Hastings to the
public for their future patronage.
w. A. MOORE
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
THE BEST AND WORST
In the Dress of Women at the
Present Time.
WELL-KNOWN PEOPLES OPINIONS.
What is Thought by Men, Women, Writers
Doctors and COsmopolitans-General
Dress Gossip.

New York, Dec. &c. 1890. Especial cor
respondence of THE HERALD. Courage"
said one of the best known OF the younger
artists in the Holbein studios, sis the char
aracteristic that 1 espe 3ially admire in
woman's dress at the present time.
''IL painting picture man may violate
all the canons of the artistic law makers,
but if he aims at an effect and succeeds In
producing it, his sins are half forgiven,
especially if the effect is worth producing.
Soin dress a woman may originate for her
herself a costume so decidedly a. war with
established rules that the dressmaker will
refuse to touch it, and yet the effect may
Justify the adventure. American women
are becoming renowned for this holiness
experiment. The first of those extremely
tight gowns that 1 noticed up the street
was worn by plain woman with line
figure. She might almost as well have
been unclothed, for every movement OF
every muscle was visible under the dress.
l admired her courage, but it wasn't three
weeks before ] could see two or three such
dresses in a single block any sunny alter
noon.
why, a walk down Broadway after a
Saturday matinee is as good as beauty
show. There's nothing like it anywhere
else in the world. The French women are
are more uniform and conventional, yet in
one respect they lead the world. A friend
said TO me IN Paris one day, "a French
woman is the only one who can afford to be
plain; a woman of another nationality
who knows herself not beautiful combs her
hair severity back and turns her mirror to
the wall. q Frenchwoman never sur
renders 30 any odds but makes the most
of the one passably good point she may
have. American women are getting this
same spirit and they show far more vari-
ETY. ana originality. They are learning
simplicity from the japanese and drapery
from the Greek statues. They are coming
TO consider beauty rather than cost of
fashion. l have known woman to wear a
last years hat it suited her features
better than the latest style Yes, cos
tune is beautiful as it was two hundred
years ago, and infinitely more artistic than
In the hideous dark ages of the hoopskirt
about war timen
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

sat in her Office in very French frock of
black silk with her dog in ribboned bas-
ket close at her side. what [ dislike
most" said she, sin woman's dress this
winter is the straightneSs and severity of
its lines. There is nothing graceful, pretty
or artistic about the plain, narrow skirt
and it gives a petticoatless look to the
wearer that is quite the reverse of beauti-
ful. The shoulder and hip lines are
wOman's most charming curves. With our
ubsurd high sleeves we lose the one and
with our tlat-backed, tournureless gowns
good deal of the other. Here good many
women still allow themselves wee pads
out n Paris the majority look as if they
lan been spanked soundly in childhood and
oad never gotten over it. The style lacks
distinction; you can't tell duchess from a
1airymaid."
Yet you are wearing straight skirt
and high sleeves"
''Oh, yes, believe in adopting fashion
on the very day it is born. There is no use
III refusing; sooner or later you VIII be
obliged to recognize it, and you might as
well do so at the start and get the credit of
being one of the leaders. l may be pleased
to have my dress noticed because it is rich
or elegant, but not because it is eccentric.
Whether like style or not get in out of
the cold.''
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Grace Greenwood

sat before rosy glow Of Goals, swinging
to and fro in low rocker, her writing
table Uttered with papers visible through a
doorway. ''The characteristic of dress
that / especially like" said she. sis its
simplicity. There is no overlooking with
trimmings, any woman can dress cheaplv
and tastefuliy. What l dislike especially
is the narrowness of the skirts. they are so
uncomfortable to walk in. They are light
but 1t IS just as diSagreeable to be dragged
back as to be dragged down. Woman's
dress is now, as 1t has always been, confin
ing. Rosa Bonheur in petticoats could not
have been Rosa Bonheur. George Sand
in petticoats could not have studied the
life of the French peasants and taught the
world realism. But the most comical sight
ever saw was DR.. Mary Walkers STUN
bic as she went tripping down the steps of
the gallery Of the House of Representa-
tives. One of her little high heels caught
and she fell, her cane spinning in the air.
her coat tails tiutJering and her long hair
flying up like crazy aureole. Flighty eff
forts only hurt dress reform.
at makes me sick at heart to overhear
in the horse cars scraps of women's talk,
always of goods and gowns. There is a
strained look in their faces, they waste
half their lives in the great, crowded, ILL
ventilated dry goods stores
women will never realize their posi-
bilities till they spend less time doing 10
their hair. Samson's. strength is the
weakness of women
Olive Harper said very readily, 81 find
it impossible to tolerate in evening dress
the habit so many women fall into of cut
ting their dresses extraordinarily low in
the neck behind. To me it really seems
more immodest than any other sort of per-
sonal display. Perhaps this is because the
trick is usually resorted to by women who
are pdsse. 1t is the theory, you know, that
woman remains fresh longest just be-
tween her shoulder blades. 1t reminds me
always of 'Katisha's' left elbow, which
was vision of beauty and which people
came miles to see.
What / find most disagreeable in street
attire is the custom our New York girls
are falling into of promenading in their
riding habits. The skirts are made short,
to be sure, according to the present fash
ION, but the girls hold them up to empha-
size the fact that they are riding skirts,
and to show their boots and riding trousers.
Some afternoons you may see on the streets
or In the horse cars from dozen to twenty
who really make spectacles of themselves. u
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Mrs. Bernard Beere.

Who is now getting together wardrobe
in which to exhibit to American audiences
the Sara Bernhard of England, expressed
herself, when saw her in October, very
strongly on the subject of the abnormally
high bust with which women caricature
the feminine figure. "It is" she said, ga
sad case OF crowding. The stays crowd up
and crowd down and produce tremendous
length of waist between. The bosom is
lifted almost to the collar bones, so that it
becomes impossible to wear even the most
innocent cut Of evening dress without in
decency. Even the artists are caught by
the monstrosity and turn out vulgar types
of beauty. When one looks at the thing
critically there's really nothing more dis
pleasing in modern dress than su Oh pro
tuberant STYLE" Mrs. Beere, perhaps
one may say, wears no stays.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

breadth through the temples, are as type
neutrality-suspicious.. An American woman is
like an English woman made smaller and
more refined, and so it follows that she
looks better in English clothes, but these
should be modified according to her own
peculiarities. The American is becoming
larger, tends to high cheek bones, is de-
Veloping some Indian characteristics, and
all these points of physique and environ
ment must be taken into account
in deciding on suitable styles of
do you know there's often a strange
logic about fashion High shouldered
sleeves belong properly only to trained
gowns; we have put them On for the street
and what is the consequence Our street
gowns at once lengthen themselves and
begin to train. Take off tie puffs and we
can have short walking gowns"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Mrs. Eliza Arehard Conner

stopped for five minutes the busy pen of
ore of New York's busiest newspaper
women. 81 can hardly tell you,' said she
refectively, "what like best in dress, I'M
less it is the grace Of the evening robes
What l like least is the length of the street
dresses. We've carried our parlor costumes
out into the business world. You may see
ten inches of velvet trailing any afternoon
over the dirty streets of one of the world
dirtiest cities. Gowns that clear the ground
are enough of burden for busy women |
walk for exercise to and from my house
across the bridge every day, and l can't
possibly keep my skirts from fraying at the
hem. We women are taking up mems work
Ii we are ever to equal them at il, we must
get rid of some of our handicapping draper
les. There is no reason why a beautiful and
perfectly feminine costume cannot be de-
vised for use out of doors, with no skirts
below the knees. Would l wear it, Not
now; the small boy would boot, 1 might
even be arrested, but l look forward to a
better timen
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Channcer III. nene,r

disclaimed any especial knowledge of the
dress of women past or present, but was
inclined to like the quaint and picturesque
ensemble. "You CAN'T he said, ''prophesy
from the women you meet at o'clock what
manner of women you will meet at 3 80;
there is always uncertainty, and this lends
piquant variety to even the shortest prom
enade.'' DR. Depew believes that the
masculine half of humanity regards with
especial favor the privilege of bright colors
the soft brilliant yellows and reds and
the cleaning jeweled effects in fair women's
newest array. when the sky is gray" he
philosophical, land the wind chill and the
look of the world dull, dead and sere, then
the gay, rich dresses fit like vivid, beauti-
full pictures into natures sombre frame.
believe we ought to offer women an especial
vote OF thanks in December for making
themselves cheerful things to look upon.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
The Duchess Of marlborough.

before she left the warm and cheering
homage of New York for the chill of dis
approving London, found time to make
rough sketch for friend illustrating what
she called the most noticeable bad thing in
American dressing. 1.-THE evening bodice
as worn in this country" said she after
listening TO some lively comments on an I'M
dress display at the Metropolitan opera
house, sis a combination of French and
English decollette. The English woman has
magnificent shoulders and she cuts her
frock with the one object of displaying
them; she makes the most of the curve
from her ear down over the top of her arm,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
DIR. Lucy VI. Hall.

Who has been resident physician at Vas
sar and whose contributions to scientific
periodicals find many readers, protests
against the towering fur collars that leave
nothing of woman visible but her eyes
aud her nose. 'Wnen l see," she declared,
"a woman all shoulder wings and collar,
she looks to me as if her framework had
given way and she We're dropping down
through her clothes. But 1 object to the
collar especially, because it makes the
throat extremely sensitive to cold. The
woman who owns one wrap with high
collar cannot safely exchange it for any
other garment for single afternoon.
After once putting it on she risks hoarse-
ness or some worse difficulty if she lays it
aside before spring. The close collar over
heats the neck and will spoil its appearance
and make it scawny. II is terrible pro-
vocative of throat disease. 1t is not fit for
year,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Ward McAllister

Deamed with appreciation as he delivered a
short homily on brocades. ''You could as
sign community to its exact rank in civil
ization, don't you know" this while he
stood with feet apart and hands clasped be-
hind his back, for all the world like bust
ness man of perhaps average prosperity,
''if you know the use it made of brocades
Buds wear tulles. All immature society
is ruled by buds. Beautiful matrons wear
brocades. Developed society takes its cue
from beautiful matrons. No brocades, nc
real society; the more brocades the more
highly organized the social system; the two
things revolve about each other, don't you
see! This is why 1 say the best thing
about woman's dress at the present time
is the sumptuousness of the brocades.''
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
A CARD TO THE PUBLIC.

Apparently certain morning journal Of
this city seeming to be better posted on my
Intentions than l am myself, as will be OBJ
served by their statement on the 21st inst,
to the effect that as soon as had settled
my business affairs contemplated moving
to Denver. Now | wish to inform my
friends and the public in general that at no
time during the past twelve years have
ever contemplated going to Denver or any
other place, nor have | eyer given the least
intimation to any person or persons of any
intention on my part to leave Salt Lake
city. On the contrary, they have always
been informed that l am located here for
good.
l have been identified with various bust
ness enterprises in this city since 1873, and
for the past six years in the insurance
business representing the leading COM
panies of America and Europe, IN fire, life
and accident, my Office for the past year
has been and still is in the Progress block,
rooms 5l4 and SIS, where 1 or one of my
representatives can always be found, and 1
will be pleased to have all my old friends
call at any and all times, and will also be
delighted to form the acquaintance of all
new Corners, and have them bear in mind
that the agency of Louis Hyams is one of
the largest if not the largest in the country,
the ombined cash capital and assets repre-.
sented in my Office being over 5000, 100000
Respectfully LOUIS HYAMs,
SALT LAKE CITY, December %, 1890
Nh1c +fl7n nrrtC nd oh all
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
DIR. Louis Fiske Bryson

theorized on dress most entertaingly. az
cannot single OUT said she, "a pet liking
or aversion, because all our styles have
been so inartistic for the last year or two.
We adopt narrow bonnets with projecting
brims because Paris wears them. Now
they may become Paris, but our type diff
fers from the French materially. Women
who adopt English hats and coats look bet
ter almost invariably than those who fol-
low French fashions, because of the Anglo
SaxoR preponderance in an American The
French tend to be narrow headed, dolicho-
cephalous; the English have q greater
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Health is Wealth +!

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in insanity and leading to misery decay and
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exertion of the brain. Each box contains one
months treatment: sl.0O a box, or six boxes
for $780, sent by mail prepaid on receipt of price
WE GUARANTEE SIX BOXES
To cure any case With each order received by
us for SIX bottles, accompanied with S. co. we
will send the purchaser our written guarantees
to refund the money if the treatment does not
effect cure. Guarantees issued only by
JOHNSON, PRATT g. CO..
Druggists, Sole. Agents, 4S Main street, Sal
Lake city, Utah
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

but then she carries the line straight
across, covering her bosom. The French
woman has collar bones; she brings light
draperies over her shoulders to veil them,
but she points her corsage well toward the
waist in front and behind. Along comes
the American woman, looks at the two, and
orders a dress that is, well it's cosmopoli-
tan 1t is the English bodice cut down in
q French point, or it's the French bodice
with the English bare shoulders. 1t makes
q kind of international exhibition.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Jennie June

expressed the opinion that the best thing
fashion had done for women in many long
day was the invention of fabrics at once
soft, light and warm. "As we dress nova
days." said she, looking up serenely, undis-
turbed by the click of typewriters in the
office of the HomemaIter, Eve carry or need
carry almost no burden at all. l am very
agreeably astonished when 1 compare the
weight of a new dress with that of the
older ones IN my wardrobe. There has
been most wonderful improvement in
materials and an equally great advance in
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Mrs. Josephine Redding j.,

The highly successful editor of the Art
Interchange, expressed willingness to be
written down as approving particularly the
large picture" hats covered with plumes,
but she added with resignation, 81 am
afraid their day is nearly done. | particu-
larly dislike" she continued, 'the three
quarter length coats, they make such an
ugly line about the figure. These are: l am
afraid, coming in. The costumers are be-
ginning to design them in the richest and
most costly materials and by next winter
we are likely to see them as thick as buck
leberrieS' -
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

of making; in fact, the most ex-
acting women have every reason to be
satisfied because fashion practically gives
them liberty to dress precisely as they
choose. There is no reason why any one
should not follow consistently her own
ideas of the beautiful and the sensible
The only fault L can find with the present
this, to be sure, is rather a
serious one-is the stripping down in the
evening after going muffied in furs all day
This violent change must often be respon-
sible for pneumonia"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

to individuality. You yourself, and not the
dressmaker, must tell yourself what you
are to wear, and your attire cannot be like
that Of other women. A lady said to me,
Your costume is very beautiful, but L
could not wear it, l answered, Madam, it
was not made for YOU One Of these days
we shall be too wise to allow any other
person to decide how we shall interpret
ourselves to the world. We sdail make our
clothes as individually expressive as our
faces or our voices. They are part of our
selves -
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Mrs. Fdmnnd Rnssou

Wore brown cloth street dress that was
little less-like the draperies of statue
than those In which she appears on the
lecture platform. "One of the chief faults
l md with woman's dress" she explained
lis its lack of personality. What right
has any one to wear something she has not
designed: The dress is one of the wran-
pings OF the self, one or the means bv
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28
Mrs. Kendall

said that, to her, American dress seemed
mixed most curiously. AT an evening re-
ception she met women in full dress, women
in half dress and women in street costumes.
All was anarchy. If she were to criticize,
it would be this apparent absence of social
law. ELIZA PUTNAM HEAToN
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-12-28

Christmas ports and sherries and all
wines 80 cents quart bottle at the Bodega,
l9 Commercial street Telephone 365.