Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-05-25

1
are exact duplicates of full costumes IN
| color, drapeTy and trimming, in NINA
ture about ten inches in height, with full
size patterns accompanying. With these
woman can see just how every fold and
gather is laid, and every line of trim
ming and hem. 1t is absolute pleasure
to fashion costume by the help of these
clever models, which reduce the work of
making the intricate looking gowns of
the mode to comparative simplicity.
The black dress, indispensable to every
ladJ's outfit, and more becoming than
any If properly made, is Henrietta
battste- cloth, which looks like fine firm
canvas with substance and lightness, the
silky camelshair twill which repeIs dust
and wears better than any less expensive
fabric, or the drap 'ete coming in favor
again. For these gowns, the front width
Is almost invariably draped, the sides in
nat, shallow box-pleats or the wide panel
pleats, taking in half the width of the
skirt to plsat, giving the simplicity of
the plain English skirt, without its
blankness. Handsome Henrietta dresses
show lengths of fine silk passementerle
without beading, or fine cord embroidery
between the pleats.
Black cashmeres have skirts with side
pleats meeting in front and full gathered
back, each pleat having two-ineh gros
grain ribbon stitched down its length,
with three loops at the front. This
trimming is not new this year, but the
effect Is too good to be laid aside. Other
cashmeres and summer fiannels have
the plsats stripped with fine sontachs,
thrse-quarters of an inch apart, and q.
these simple trimmings freshen q gown
In n nd
lon pleating Is too pretty to be given
quite up, but is seen more in white
dresses, lace and children 3 wear. The
fine pleats an inch wide have really
the same effect, and wear end
lessly. If they are plenty
of work to make, they Iengthen the wear
Of q skirt three times as much as the |
plain fashions. But to look well, these
pleats must be stitched TO the foundation |
inVlSibly, as the three rows of machine |
stitching visible across the skirt which |
usually holds them IN place takes away |
All the grace of the fine work. These
black gowns of substance are needed at |
the North till late, occasionally cool days j
In summer, and are the nrst resumed IN
fall, SO that their style should be assured
enough for long season. The thinner
Tools, batiste, yeilings, and delaines are
made in the straight, rather full skirt,
With hens and ribbon trimmings, or
'ucks and hemstitehings, or insertions OF
he fine passementerie which is little less
light than lace, but more substantial.
The netted fringe is well used with the
irmer of these fabrics sewed to the edge
" the skirt, and falling over five-inch
DOT pleating-the only way yet seen
Ehen 1t looks we'll. The fringe should
cave two inches of the pleating below it
lear. The wool skirts are finished with
ows of gros-grain ribbon graduated
rom three inches to three-quSrter inch,
he trimming reaching almost to the
nee. Graduated velvet trims brilllan-
Inc and cashmere dresses the same way;
cannot be said with very good effect.
'ut the ribbon trimming on the firm
lack fsh-net skirts is very good. I
Everything in house fashions has been {
ut, drapsd aud slashed IN the manner {
ear TO manufacturers, because inimita- I
lie to any but the trade, and soon dis 6
laced. But the best styles, issued late
nd arriving now by every steamer, show
lueh simpler aud shaplier dresses. Even
be tea gown fits the figure in an easy {
rincess shape, with long, straight bantik j a
trimming from shoulder to hem,
round the dsmi-train and down the full
nff Of <hs slseye, which endS below the
bows. A pretty gown of the sort is tea
'se cashmere, with thres bands OF orl-
ltal embroidery in pink, gold and blue =
OWN the front, tbs center one ending at :,
10 foot, those ct theS side extending
Dove the hem round fhe skirt. The I
ut was moire ribbon slipped under the b
De bands with long loops and ends. O
A pretty house dress Is q princesse IN | Il
'mpadour stripes, with an oyerdress II
'scissly like pattern OF apron dear to
'usekeepers, falling to the feet in front a
it'll wide straps over the shoulders SC
nssing at the back, while the apron it. o.
IL covers the hips, meeting IN the back. IL
lie eject is good whether in summer D,
ocade with apron Of plain silk or the &C
rlped ehalliss with plain wool or baila- pl
10 overdrsss. or the striped Bingham | te
tn plain aprons. TIE costume issnns Ess
led by long ffvs-inch sash round thai th
ltst, tied once in front with ends Hang- 10
: nearly TO the feet. - 81
Two and four button gloves are Eorr
tn the long sleeves and CATERS Of N4 fs
9TH, black or match the gown I'D ~
rafully fitted, or worn with the p u M
xz-f.f s.t. .