New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-09-07

seems that the shock Of cold water will stimulate the
skim give color and freshness to the complexion, sna
prepare 1t for the exposure to the weather
"Al agree to the advantage Of regular living, ex'
ercise and plain food-and So dearest ss have the
gist of the whole matter. As for you. you can dis
pcnse with the massage. but shall begin on my
wrinkles this very night and-who knows!-I may b
considered your Junior yet!'
The new purple is a mauve. OF q plnkish shade
All blue puppies hopelesSly passe. dress 70
Gently imported from Paris Is fine example Of the
use OF this shade In combination with lace The
demtran skirt and bodice Of the dress Of corded
silk In q halfinch pekin stripe OF mauvo and white
while the front OF the skirt was plain mauve draped
with ecru lace. The front Of the bodice was finishes
with jacket fronts which fell apart to disclose mauve
waist draped with loose abot OF ecru lace. caught
the belt by soft girdle OF mauve silk fastened
little TO side OF the front under huge r0sctte
OF satin ribbon. high Mciici collar and huge
sleeves OF plain maive silk draped with ecru lace
finished the bodice. rosetc Of satin ribbon. similar to
the at the belt rested near the LETT shouider
seam. The bonnet 10 be with this reception dress
was composed Of two bands OF black velvet studdeo
with Jet. trimmed with triple tips OF mauve color.
caught down BY bow Of watered ribbon In the same
shade.
A novelty which comes from England is a linen
dress foundation 1t possesses many OF the ahvahtas"
OF silk and is more durable than any Of the cheaper
silks commonly used for this purpose. The dress
foundation is a matter OF considerable moment, as
NAV add or detract materially from the weight OF the
dress. good silk lining that Will not chhs Is uh'
doubedy the best and lghte but il Is also expensive
English taors who make gowns for royalty say thas
no one Is cxtravaGant In the matter OF Innings a.
their American customers Women OF the no
bility arc content with cotton or alpaca nnihgs'
But again., says the same authority our
English more robust and do not suher
from the weight OF these cheaper Innings We arc
compelled to resort to every contvance t" edu'e 'he
weight OF our gowns 1t has been our study since We
have been i'm this country as American women cannot
support the weight OF heavy English dresses
nScqmcntly silk foundations here almost OK
clusvely."
Long cIoaks which will be much worn this autumn
are made Of heavy natural gray homc>pun diagonal
he, ked with touches OF darker color The triple cape
with its stylish high shoulders and smart hgh Medc'
collar is finished with a metal clasp In the form OF
French shield and heur de- lis The new lacRe's arc
all Mcdic style. shaped longer in front than AT the
back. They are usually double breasted. WITH large
buttons. fitted close to the figure at the BACK ana nm
ishcd with small patch pockets in front near inc
buttons. The collars Of all jackets are extremely
highs0 high at the backs to require ccadilly TIPS
or rounded corners to make them comfortable IN 'front.'
The new sca>kn Jackets are In Mcdici shape tho
! aaring collar extending high enough up at the back
thoroughly the napc Of the neck The sleeves
| are high and pulled the sh0ulucrs III Is htofi
close To the figure at the back and cut quite Short
while the loose front is quite long and Is sloped graz
ually on the edge meet the back All fur jackets
| this coming are ~ be extremely PLAIN "ithouS
trimmings or visible buttons Of any kind but as here
| toforc buttoned under fy.
There arc many browns and dark reds among the
new tailor cloths, Outlining threads Of red lines Of
white and threads Of yellow give dash of color IN
a refined to dark Delft blue. tobacco-brown ana
natural brown and shades Of color Some OF the
most beautiful If the long silen teXtured ana marry
camer> hair cld h those imp ,rcd In natural gray
dead leaf brown and stone cOors. 10 accompany
these cloths and to be used with them AS dressfront
and sleeve, there i camels.hair cloth in the same
color, figured with palm leaves III monotone III raise
A>trachan effect. still Others are half moons ana
crescent figures. \ diagonal, called 'diagonaI
fantasy i waved and bent in the weave. producing
a zigzag effect in the rep. There are also many SOFT
| gray cloths with a deep plush border, In chnchllia
color or OF genuine chinchla fur applied to the eldh
by lines Of embroidery The latter one necessarily
extensive comes only in dress lengths Redfern ana
Worth are both using this fine cloths shot with
lines Of color produced by thread, OF SILK run throngh
the cloth. In some cases this ,hotworK Is dohe III
stripes in the effect OF the dared work used BY ladies'
in decorative embroidery. The pladcd Astraehan
cloths and the plaided wool plush cloths are among the
uoyetie, Of the and TO be used sparngly IN
combination with plain goods
Now that the decree has gone forth that all street
| dresses shall lie on the ground an inch ana haf
| when made. a drc>, supporter becomes matter OF
| moment a simple arrangement OF elastic tapes -
ALREADY ia market for this purpose by which the sklrt
may be elevated to clear the pavement few inches rs
mi. elevator to be attached to all walking dresses
by the dre>>makcr and become a. much part ot mo
me, han>u Of the the >t'cl> or skirt BRAID the
| new tailor dresses worn By wellbr,d women will NOT
become street -wecpeI~.
Mrs Francis Di,wn. daughter in law and bographer
OF the f,mvI> naturalist. has recently written an
! article on the much mooted domestic service qucs.
ton. Perhaps hardly be- expected that a
woman who Discusses ably the origin Of the species
will take practical view II this most practical qucs'
tom She makes the astonishing demand that servants
aout br employed should have the opportunity of
hearing the character" Of their proposed mistress from
| two ar more u those servants whom she had pre-
y>ly employed. All peron> discussing this question
seem miss the plain AXIOM Of domestic economy
that one cannot obtain quality till one has quantity.
Competition IN this country and in England Is cut on
the demand for servant, being greater han The supply
Wherever. !, in Australia. there i, larger supply Of
domestic helpers than there places for them. schools
cooking and domestic science are eagerly attended
such :, houl> have been established in this country
for purpose have uniformly failed because crude.
nuedu, ated servants found they were able to obtain
places without requirement ~ training ana at tho
| l,,t wages II i whispered that one society Of
charitably disposed ladies spent 32OOOO for wha4
u,,,yrd finally Ia be- the education Of two servants for
kit, hen work. \ school equipped and everything
went on ~ II should 90. except thar there were no
| pupils, nor could be induced TO come.
4 nant giaw basket Of porcelain with pierced sides
j.. mad, after the old patterns Of this 10y the
| Coalpurt works in shropshire. England. II is
| dainty holder FOR bonbon> >alt,d almonds small
| candi,1i fruits for dessert.
IIouSekccpcrs who irving Brussels and velvet
| carpets ,houd note that there are now double width
| CARPETS IN market and by their Use half the usual
seams ar, done with. al, the English CARPET
maker, are making BRUSSELS. Wilton and .AXminst9-
,.r,.,s in such "A variety Of widths that Il wide room