Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-08-23
. OF TIE EVENING srAs.

which gives one more idea Of the ele-
M5kS gance of the old noblesse and the rich
old burgermeister times than any city Of Eu-
rope the houses are so handsome and well
kept up and equipages in fine style are SO
numerous and so stylish. From there we went
on to Amsterdam, which 10 in violent contrast
IN every way with its stately peighbor The
Hague, for it is a bustling business city, full OF
go activity much more like an American city
than any other in this part OF the world. From
here we made an excursion TO the island Of
Marker IN the "Zulee Zee" the only place in
Holland where the peculiar costume OF the peo-
pie Is worn exclusively and has remained I'M
Changed for generations IL is very peculiar.
particularly with regard TO the head dress
which Is worn by all females from infants to
old women. and consists of cap, a three-cor-
nered handkerchief and q long sausage curl Of
the same length and thickness ON every mortal
woman. only varying in color. This il the oniy
vestige OF hair that is allowed TO appear. the
rest being carefully tucked away. Their linsey
dresses and counterpane calico bodices make
upa queer costume, and the men look Just as
queer. From Amsterdam We went by steamer
to Christlanla across the North sea in a Dutch
built steamship, and between the build" and
the capers cut by the North sea l broke my
record utterly and vas as sick las any other
man." Indeed. i: was a very queer VOYAGE. for
the captain, three sailors and one passenger
were the only ones on the ship not i'll. The
stewards did not even set the saloon table for
there was no one to eat the meals there. 1t was
impossible for any one to sit up without hold
ing on with both hands TO something fixed
IN FAB-oFF NORWAY.
1t was impossible In ChrisCiania TO realize
that we were actually in fsr-off Norway Such
fine buildings fine shops, well dressed people,
h,,,
dences, would lead one TO suppose oneself in a
great metropolis instead OF the land OF cold
and snow.
We live in beautiful hotel with as fine
restaurant as / ever found in Paris. The whole
city was astr, too, with preparations when we
arrived for the visit Of the Emperor Of Ger
many. They were putting up fine arches, &C.,
ana the palace was in the hands OF the spring
cleaners, and Drooms and mops were in full
SWING of preparation for the royal visitor.
After passing four very pleasant days We
went to Troudhjem, where We took the steamer
Olof hyrre, which Was to carry us to the
north cape. to the land OF the midnight sun
and we were exceptionally fortunate in having
chosen TO make the hrst trip Of the season,
Tor we saw such Il succession OF snow noun
tains, glaciers, laundering torrents and vast
fields OF snow, made daZZlingly white by the
light of the sun that blazed and shone in his
glory for SIX days and nights, as we could not
have seen even in the next steamers trip, for
the snow was lessening a little every day AS it
grew warmer.
GRAND SIGHTS.
1t was sight or series Of sights so magnifi-
cent that no words of mine could give even
feeble idea OF them.
No picture, no written description ever saw.
prepared me in ever SO small degree for the
solemn. lonely grandeur OF the vast fields of
unbroken snow lying close TO a rugged noun
tain succeeded by another whose massey vedure
dipped into the ford. Ii was SO extraordi-
nary in every sense of the word that was up
almost all of every night, IL night it could be
called, when the sun shone with both heat and
brilliancy like that OF noon time at home.
Ones adjectives were quickly exhausted in
scenes like these. and one could but wonder
and be still. On our landing at the cape many
OF the passengers made the ascent. but we did
not, knowing there was no advantage in dom
so, but we got permission from the captain to
go out, rowed by two sailors to the front Of the
vast head land and see the sun that was peep
Ing from behind some light clouds and the SEN
sailon was weird in the extreme when We real
lied that were in AL open boat on the Arctic
ocean at midnight.
An EScAMPMEST OF LAPLANDERs.
On our way back, after leaving the cape. we
stopped at Tromsodal and were landed to walk
a mile or two to see an eucampment Of Lap
landers with a large herd Of reindeer. This
was very interesting, albeit the Laps are the
dlrtiest of all creatures. But dirty they
were was induced to go one step inside tent
or hut. because the mother of little three
months old baby would not lift the calico cur
tain from the baby's bark and skin cradle until
1 went inside. So l gathered my skirts
well about my feet and went inside
and Immediately she lifted the veil
and let me see the baby's face, the one
and only clean white thing in the hut A fire
in the middle of the floor and a hole in the GOD
al LAT mr. "A
not have been endurable, for five men and
women and five sleeping children perspiring in
their fur clothes and coverings were within one
tent.
who were gentle creatures and quite tame.
DISTINGUISHED COMPANY.
On our way We went in and out OF many
fjords that We had not seen on our way up, and
all of equal if not superior beauty to those " o
had seen. We travelled in quite fine company
too, for the Archduke Carl, brother OF the
Emperor of Austria, with his son Prince
Ferdinand, their suite Of several counts and
barons and such small fry were OF the party
There were a half dozen deadly common
Americans on board. who actually scraped ac-
quaintance with some gentlemen of the suite
and the young prince, but il was most mortify-
ing to see any American girls act as they did.
We continued on the steamer until we got to
Bergen. being almost alone by that time, hav-
ing dropped our passengers at all the different
points ON the way from whence they were to
take the various routes through to Norway
We started from Bergen and went to Odde,
where we began driving tour through q
splendid pass. but in vehicle which carries .
pain to the back of my neck when 1 think Of
it--a shakespeare, which ratified and bumped
US through gorgeous scenery which, happily
for my ver.ebr@'s sake, we had to walk through
in many places; but when we began our long
drive We had a caleche that was the embodi-
ment of comfort. so that by changing horses
frequently we drove from 30 to 60 miles a day
without fatigue through some wonderfully
beautiful scenery that was like that Of Swift
zerland put under a powerful magnify ing
glars, it is so vast aud SO grand.
At last we returned to Christians and In
time to see the excitement there at the depart
ure of the kaiser, who had made his visit and
was saying good by, and il was fine sight.
The King of Sweden and Norway, with tho
kaiser on his right and the crown prince and
his brother opposite. filed one Of the ten ba-
rouches that conveyed the royal party 10 the
yacht Statutes wore fred. the band played,
the people shouted and waved and threw show
ers OF flowers into the carriages, which were
each drawn by four black horses, with four
outriders. After visit Of five days to this
beautiful city of Stockholm we leave tomorrow
Of all Is welD for Russia, and shall be three
more days at sea, which will help to make our
forty days and nights Of sss travel before We
get back to Washington. NJ.
<zAN@ n