St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-04-06

of the fabric. blue, however, being III
the lead. The fronts of the coat are
slightly rounded at tine Lotion. and the
lapelS are of medium fullnesS. A double
row of stitching runs along the edges
Of the coat, and the bottoms of the
sleeves are stitched to match.
The pockets are all of the patch
order. The trousers. owing TO the light
ness of the material. are rather full.
Next in order as fashionable fad, es
pecially for young men, is the one-but-
ton cutaway sack suit. A stylish ma
terial is plaid cheviot, either luiet or
loud in pattern. according to the Whim
of the man who wears it. the coat
opens low, with low vest, and the
trousers are OF generous dimensions.
trousers, by the way, are past, IL not
forever, at least for some time to come.
The fronts of the coat are well cut away
and are rounded at the bottom. The
breast pocket is finished with welt,
but side pockets have flaps, which are
always 10 be worn on the outside. The
vest to go with this suit should have
a nOtched collar. and should open from
fourteen to fifteen inches. 1t should
also have five buttons. For men Of a
sporting turn and for politicians the
suit most appropriate, and ore which
the fashion designers have brought to a
high state of perfection this spring, is
the single-breasted frock, or Prince AL
bert. 1t is fashioned on grace
full lines, and for man of i'm
posing physique is one of the
most becoming imaginable. The coat
is essentially patterned after the double
breasted Prince Albert, but is somewhat
shorter. The material of the suit should
be of fancy worsted, mainly in light
cOlOrs, gray or cream being preferable.
The collar of the coat is full and rolls
low, in order to allow ample sway to the
vest, which has low opening. Unlike
the dOuble-breasted Prince Albert coat,
this one has an outside pocket, which is
finished with welt. The edges are
stitched and the sleeves have imitation
cuffs closed with two buttons. The
lapels have soft finish so as to roll free
when the coat is open. Commonly.
however, it is kept buttoned. The
trousers are of medium width and have
the faintest suspicion Of spring at the
bottom.
There are several distinct varieties of
business suits. bnt the one intended to
interest swell dressers who desire re-
lief from the straight double-breasted
sack is the three-butt0n cutaway sack.
1t is picturesque and graceful, and if
properly made will adjust itself beauti-
fully to the curves of the human form.
For the most part the fabric is of dag
onal chevlot, but plaidS and soft check
patterns are equally appropriate. If a
fancy vest is wo1n the one most fitting
is of Marseilies linen, although freedom
of choice may be exercised on this point.
The length of the coat is trifle longer
than obtains generally in the sack de-
sign. The roll of the collar should not
be less than five inches. with full lapels
and general appearance of freedom
and ease. AS to the bottom corners of
the coat. or what would be the corners
if not cut away, they should recede
from an inch below the lower but ton.
All the pockets should have flaps, with
the discretion of having the upper
pocket made with simple welt. Ivory
buttons are considered the proper form
and the edges should be double stitched,
narrow. The vest is supposed to be
notched and to close with five buttons.
What manner of 0yercOat should a
man of fashion wear this season? The
creators of fashion haven't been SO fas-
tidiouS in this respect as in others, and,
in a general way, it may be said that the
spring OVercOat of last year is apprOpri-
ate now. The fy-front oversack or
Chesterfield is the common favorite.
Soft wOrstedS are tine correct material,
and the length TO" the average man is
from thirty-SiX to thirtySeven inches.
There is one important change, how
ever.
AS matter OF course, the three-buttOn
cutaway will still be the popular gar
ment, and will lead all others this sea-
son, as for several and the past. For
half-dreSS and for general style, we'll
made appearance, they cannot be sur
passed. The tavOrte shade will be
blue-gray, with either fat braided edge
or narrow stitching. The coat may be
worn with a vest of the same material,
or as fancy as the wearer desires, and
the trousers should be just a trlfe mar
rover than last year, with the suspicion
of a spring at the bottom. This makes
about as swell an outfit as is in the mar
ket.
A very stylish conceit for men of
middle age, especially for those of tall
and slender build, is the two-button
cutaway morning suit. AS the name
implies, the coat closes with two but
tons, set wide apart, and the whole
effect is most graceful. Cheviots, in any
chaste pattern, is the proper material
for the coat. The vest may be of fancy
goods, and the trousers in checks,
plaids OF stripes, as preferred. For
trousers, this season. the stylish pat
terms run almost entirely to plains and
stripes, the latter being the most ia
vored. When the entire suit is cut
from the same piece, soft plaids are in
good grace, but by all odds the most
popular effect is diagonal of rather
broad VALE For vests there is an end
less variety of fancy designs in llg hit
materials, such as silk pique, linen,
mOhar and so on.