New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-18

bined with general GOODNESS of architectural
effect, unrelieyed by warmth of stained glass
More attractive to the eye are the private residences
in the best portion of the town. These are hand
than houses Of the same class In Pernamouco,
and have better-kept and more beautiful gardens
about them. IL is in these homes and private
grounds Of the well-todo classes that one finds
evidence Of advance in refinement culture and
intellectual resources The eye is repelled by the
GOODNESS and downright shabblness OF the crum-
bling churches, and attracted by the spacious
hOspitabc Portuguese mansions, with their shaded
gardens aHame with scarlet and purple flowers.
SCENES IN THE MARKETS.
Among the most interesting novelties TO the
traveller in Brazilian city are the markets and
the bird bazaars. The market is ordinarily to
be regarded as the pulse OF the town. III it
be well-Served, clean and orderly, the blood cir
culatOn of the community may safely be con-
sdered as excellent. Judged by this test there
are few, If any. coast towns in Brazil in which
there is sound digestion. The markets are dirty,
dlS0rderly and unattractive. There are scanty
and Ill -managed displays Of meats. The poor live
on jerled beef of inferior grades. OF fish there
is larger assortment but fresh vegetables are
lacking. Even the display Of tropical fruits Is
disappointing. Bahia oranges are delicious, but
not superior to, the best Florida oranges seen in
the New-York market. Mangoes are abundant
and cheap. Bananas are smaller, but
more delicate in flavor than those seen in the
Northern market The most delicious fruit TO be
found in j., Brazil is the pineapple Northerners
in its green state have only faint idea Of its
sweetness, lusciouSness and delicious flavor. Hero
the pineapple is picked when the tropical sun
is ready to melt in the mouth 1t would be an
affront 10 nature to sprinkle sugar upon it when
sliced. 1t is mellow, Overrunning with juice, and
of incompatible flavor. The finest pineapplcs
are those found in PemambucO, bat the fruit
grows almost everywhere in Brazil. There are
other fruits, such as alligator pears, melons,
chirimOyas and sapOteS and a great variety Of
tropical nuts. Fruit is cheap here. the finest
pineappes being sold for three four cents TO
the experienced native, and for ten cents TO the
unwary traveller. Parrots are also inexpensive
in the bazaars adjoining the market. This bird
does not seem 10 acquire the Portuguese tongue
readily, for among the many have seen l have
not found one accomplished linguist The
plumage, however, is of bewilderlng brilliancc
and beauty when hundreds of them are seen
together The parrots are exhibited in close
proximity 10 mOnkey-cagcs. the American tradition
or monkey and parrot time apparently not having
become current in Brazil. The monkeys are of
all ages, sizes, colors and species. but nearly all
That are seen in the baZaarS are unframed. tho
purchasers being expected TO begin as well as to
complete the process of education.
Hotels are few and ill-conducted in Brazilian
coast towns, but there are excellent French and
German restaurants in Bahia and Pcrnambuco.
A good table d'hotc dinner of half dozen courses
Is served, and excellent wines are TO be had
at reasonable rates. When one has the bill 10
settle he finds that the score runs into the thou
sands The basis of the currency is an imaginary
unit, the refs, one thousand Of which make a
mllrels, worth, apart from exchange, about 50
cents The lowest nickel coin is 100 rcis. worth
, cents. Below these are conner coins 90 reis
being the smallest | have spen-enuiyalent 70 a
cent. IL one dimes with friend at n restaurant
the score will amount TO 1000 raiS-a result
startling to the uninitiated. When real estate,
transactions are conducted the figures rise into
tne nlIilons, and when trade statis-
ties are computed billions and trilons
are brought in. Reversing the process,
one pays 1000 Tes 10 a boatnan to 20 ashore
from steamer 1000 reiS or q mres for n
bottle Of beer and some cheese 500 re;s to A,
GUIDE for pllotage through public building 200
reis Tor ride ON street car. 100 refs for
a turn on the lift from the upper TO the
lower turn and another loo reiS for having his
boots BACKED. This financial system must tend
10 lmpart elasticity to poverty for even n becrar
must have some consciousness of afiuencc when
. lO0-rciS nickel is dropped into his cap For the
American who comes South with n feeling of
honest pride in the fact that specie payments
have been resumed in his country and that paper
money there IS as good as gold hour Of
humiliation is in reserve Wien he exchanges
ms SHINING ten-dolar gold piece into Brazilian
currency no receives for il at current rates Of
exchange eighteen mireS-that is eighteen thou
sand refs: but the eighteen milcis are only
equivalent 10 nine doilars-that is to saw ono
dollar has been sacrificed in the EXCHANGE. To
complete his dissatisfaction the paper money is
exceedingly dirty and irrcdeemable in coin. Gold
and silver are never seen here vet are heavily
discounted when foreigners bring them in an
inconyertlble currency commanding heavy
premium.
MANUFACTURES AND TRADE.
This town is the centre Of the tobacco REGION
home, consumption. which is very large. rs all
classes of the popula,ion-cve negro lads Of ten
or twelve yearS-smoke iEdustriously. The
BrazlianS prefer Bahia cigars to Havana i'm
portatons. This is natural. for they like strong
coffee and must have cigars to match it. Bahia
cigars are cheap. three mllrels 81 so n hundred:
but TO n foreigner they seem dear at any price
| am told that they improve with age. but am
afraid lifetime would be required for mpartng
virtue to them. rank are they when ncwi
tobacco factories N
the suburbs but there other factories also.
cotton goods are now manufactured here in
several large mills and an attempt has been
made TO produce hardware and machinery. Tho
cotton comes from Pemamhuco aS well as from
plantations near Bahia. The duties on cotton
goods have been materially increased i'm order 20
protect these rising manufactures Bahia aspireS
10 he an industrial rs well rs n commercial
centre and is making substantial progress.
Bahia like other Brazilian ports. has water
front without wharveS Steamers and vessels
anchor in the bay and are loaded and unloaded
from lighters. with probably the most incompe-
tent force of StcvedOrcs and lOngshorcmcn 10 he
found anywhere. There is one coffee wharf at
Rio and another at Santos, but with these eX-
captions II is impossible 10 transfer cargoes in
brazilian harDOrS without serious DELAY and end
less annoyance. Not n little freight is damaged
by rough handling from the lightcr-mcn. and
cargoes are ranSacIM for liquor and Iewelry by
dishonest negroes. Ihc construction of piers
and wharves would UNNECESSARILY facilitate the
handling Of freight. English capitalists have re-
pcatPdly offered TO construct wharves at the prin-
cipal ports. hut the authorities have persisted
in Withholding their consent. apparently tor no
better reason than foolish apprehension of loss
of occupation for bOatmcn and lightermcn. Pos
sibly one of the reforms 10 he introduced by tho
new Government of the States will he the inn
proyement of the water-frontS Of the coast towns.
II will be substantial gain for the commerce OF
the country.
The AdmiralS launch of the South Atlantic
SouQdron has been stcaming about the harbor
all day. The Richmond left MontcvidcO soon
after tho outbreak Of the revolution. the ITALIA
lnoosa 'rjnaining AT her anchorage. Admiral
ellis had received orders to sail for Rio and lie
anchored of the city for few DAYS. Then
ccrtaining that the revolution had ended and
that cases Of yellOw-fcyer were reported in tho
city. no sailed for Bahia. safer port during the
unhealthy season. The Admiml's views respect
ing the revolution are expressed with rctcence
and reserve and are those hold by all the diplo-