The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-04-23
ALPINE MOUNTAINS AND ITALIAN VAL
LEYs.

ALPINE MOUNTAINS AND ITALIAN VAL
LEYs.
Notes OF Travel by One of AbbevilIe's
Beloved SOns..-A Birds Eye View
of Historic Places.
GENOA, March q, 1890.
Editor Press and Banner:
Leaving Innsbruck on the morning OF the
18th, our road Carried us over the famous
Brenner Pass, the lowest crossing over the
Alps. connecting Northern and Southern Eu-
rope. 1t is hard to conceive of more beautiful
scenery than that which lines the railroad,
especially ut this season when the snow cap
ped mountains rise up on every side. Tie
pass Inns long been known as the most acces-
sible 10 travel, being used early by the Ro-
mans and later by many Of the wild hordes
which poured down from Northern Europe TO
swarm over the fertile plains of Italy and par
take of the spoil which was TO be divided at
passage over the Alps the Pass il still very
wild, The highest point being at an elevation
OF 900 feet, and the mountains around rising
to double that height. 1t was not TIL lT72 thai
1t was first made crosSable at all seasons, and
the railrond was not opened till 1863, after
three years Of herculean work. Twenty-Five
tunnels had to be cut and sixty bridges OF
considerable length constructed, besides hun
dreds OF small ones
At Brcnner station, which marks the water
shed between the two portions Of the conti.
nent, we were greeted by n blowing, snow
storm, and the temperature which In the
morning had been balmy and warm almost
as In spring, suddenly changed TO Il quite
sharp cold. But after crossing the summit the
return 10 spring was rapid. and before Italy
was reached the vegetation became green and
the, pines OF the mountains disappeared to be
replaced by more Southern growth.
Along the road are scattered many health
resorts fumed for the fine mountain air, COM
blned with winter climate that entlces
many visitors from the colder Northern
cllmes. Almost from the Brenner Pass the
country becomes Italian in people and Ian.
guage, although still under Austrian govern
iuenL and belonging TO the Tyrol.
The first thorough Italian city In all but
government Is Trent the ancient seat Of
much OF the Roman transalpine trade, and
Church Council of Ia5 It is now busy city
OF 20,OOJ Inhabitants, in pretty situation and
offering much OF Interest. A few miles be.
yond Is the little station Of Mori, ut which we
stopped In order TO reach the IIaso di Garda.
one of the prettiest Of the Italian lakes. A
beautiful road leads from Mori 10 Rlva, the
nearest town OH the lake, and as the distance
Is but short we went on foot, in order to have
the better opportunity OF enjoying the seem
cry.
Just where the road crosses the Austrian
boundary most enchanting view of the lake
appears. On every side are the mountains
while In the middle lies the dark bluelake
The color OF the water pictured IN painting
would seem unnatural IL is so blue, but In fact
II Is SO beautiful that scarcely imaglhe the
lakes offer number OF beautiful walks, and
In order to enjoy them we passed day at
Riva-unfortunntely encountering a rainy
spell which detracted much from tho pleasure
The lake Is some twenty miles long, and con-
siderable shipping Is carried on upon II. AS
the nearest and prettiest route to our railroad
we took the steamer, which runs down quite
of the numerous little towns that dot the
banks. The shores OF the lake show q gradual
transition from the mountains to the plain
from Winter to Spring. Even on the noun
tain sides commences the culture OF the lem
on and olive, at first under cover. and later In
wide fields along the shore
Landing at the little town of DescnZano we
soon reached Verona, city OF G0,0O0 lnhabi.
tanls. and the starting point of our circular
trip through Italy. Travel IN Italy is made
much cheaper by the number Of circular tick
cts which may always be had for any trip and
which are sold at two-thirdS the regular price.
Third class travel in Italy IL remarkably
cheap, though by no means so comfortable rs
In England. or even some parts OF Germany,
hut sill quite practicable for not too long
journeys. Accordingly we invested In tick
cts, which for IS francs sls) enabled US 10 trav;
back. So far our experience has been that for
seeing the country and people. without suffer-
Ing any discomfort, third class travel is all
that could be expected. The people met are
quite orderly and often of an apparently well
TO do class, and the accommodation Is always
sufficient aud quite good enough: day had
to be passed ut Verona, and quite enough OF
interest offered Itself to occupy us for that
time. First of all TO be seen Is the ancient
Arena or Amphitheatre, which Is the best pre-
served in the world. An Immense circular
structure, entirely of marble, presents strik-
Ing appearance from the exterior, but from
within Is OF wonderful interest. The seats for
the spectators were divided in three divisions
for the different classes Of the people. each
spectators could easily find accommodation,
and the arrangement was so perfect that In
few moments the whole number could find an
exit In the galleries under the seats were the
dead and wounded gladiators were thrown.
The structure Is still used for public spectacles
nnd has been the scene OF modern triumphs
such as followed the entrance OF Napolean In.
after his Victories over the Austrians. Besides
the Arena the Chief point OF interest in Vero.
ma is the Cathedral or "Duomo," which, be-
sides much that is pretty contains the iiu famous
Leaving Verona on the Goth we started for
Milan, and had ride Of unusual prettiness
for six hours Some twenty miles from Vero-
where In 1850 the French and italian armies
defeated the AustrianS, and secured the free
dom of Italy. The road passes through the
beautiful valley of the Po, In the fertile LON
hardy. To the right were to be seen lhe Alps
In tile distance, while to the left the land
stretches out In l0vel plains.
Milan Is O handsome city Of 1000 inhabi-
tunts, and probubly the richest Of Italy, The
streets are lined by tall and handsome houses
which remind one more Of tho height OF those
Of New York that Is usually the case with Eu-
ropean cities. The centre OF the life OF the
square on which stands the famous Cathedral.
The proportions Of the structure are SO fine
that one scarcely ,percelyes at once how Inn
mense 1t Is, and II requires study Of its di:
containing 10000 men. The whole structure Is
of beautiful workmanship, and the roof espe-
cially, crowned by the principal tower, rising
375 feet high, and SO smaller turrets, Is Won
derfully fine, The interior Is quite equal to
the exterior. The whole structure is Of mar:
Bile, and the splendid roof Is supported by ff-
ty.two immense columns, each measuring
some eighteen yards In circumference at the
base. The floor consists of rich marble mo.
sales. and the immense window behind the
chancel Is Of the finest stained glass, most uf
the designs being copies of well known paint
ings.
to meet the eye is the "Gallere Vittorio En-
manuele," the handsomest covered prone
made and shopping place OF Europe. The
streets are nll more than usually handsome,
whose stay is limited soon turns to the church
"Maria della GraZie," In which is found the
immortal painting Of Leonardo di Vinci-the
"LaSt Supper" Painted four hundred years
ago on the wall of the adjoining chapel the
picture has suffered sadly by the effects Of
tine. The work ia In places almost efiaced
by tho damp and neglect. At one time the
chapel was converted into cavalry stable
and door was cut directly beneath the pic
ture, removing part of the table and marring
much the general effect. The picture Is still
sufficiently preserved to bo wonderfully i'm
prcfslvc, and the ork Of the copyists suffer
sadly by comparison.
Tie Milan gallerie contains alsa many val