The morning call., 1890-06-17
BEAUTY OF
THE ARM.
Women Who Exhibit Graceful
Curves and Soft Dimples.
Fortunes In Teacups = Where Novelist
Finds His Inspiration - Odd
Fances in Gems.

them. The long glove las UOueidlou ito dihoi'
tion it stops as soon as 1t has turned the corner
Of lhs elbow. One woman in twenty has a
prettily modelled elbow and she, you
may be sure, goes not cover its dim
pIes with either glove or sleeve. Glove
etiq uelte seems 10 be little more liberal IMAM IL
was before we wore the Greek gown. There are
daring spirits who regard Its classic folds as
warrant for barring the arm from bnger-tlp 10
shoulder There are even those who maintain
that by wearing the Recamier dress the same
dispensation from gloves may be obtained. Ella
Wheeler Wilcox, for example, when she puts on
q short wasted white silk is never shy about ex-
posing her long, rounded arms.
The smoke of the fight about the decollete
bodice has never enveloped the arm. Annie
Jenness Miller says that If woman's arm is
pretty she should give its shapeliness frankly to
the world; il 1t is not pretty she should study
sleeves The ideal arm has beauty OF whole.
some, almost of a.pastoral order; it bears show
ing. 1t is clear-skinned and rounded, and there
Is gracious dimple just al the side OF the elbow
The skin Is soft, but the flesh Is iirm. Beneath
lis smooth contour 1t is instinct with the strength
that supports a tired child. IL IS blemish II
the lines are so full as to suggest the seraglio
rather than the green fields.
Women who know anything about arms have
thrown their bracelets away. 1t Is mistaken
policy TO call attention 10 poor arm, ana a
good one is never so beautiful as when naked
One often sees the value OF a wrist absolutely
destroyed by q bangle.
GIoved or ungloYeo, sleeyed or unsleeved.
braceeted or without jewels, the arm grows IN
Importance every day. Genevieye Steoolns
Thompson and Nine. Alberti aud Henrietta
Crane Russell and Mabel Jenness and the rest
OF The estheteS and physical culturistS and Del
sarieans have been teaching us all winter 10
pose, and the pity is We begin TO make our
arms before we have taken our degrees. The
results are commonly ridiculous or harassing-
The arms OF The woman who Is not naturally
graceful always look SIiif and harsh as they lie
in her lap mOlionless. If she Is not bitten with
any Of The artitsic fads she makes an awkward
hoop of them, with fingers iuterlaced. II she has
been doing little amateurlSh studying oil Gas
steal collections she extends them or lets them
hang at fun length, unteXed in hard, straight
lines The first piece of advice which we'll wsher
would give such a woman would be that she al
low both aims TO fall In Free easy positions,
slightly relaxed at the elbows or with the hand
dropping little at the wrist, but that she should
not allow her left arm 10 know what her light
arm is doing. One ought usually 10 take some
what different position from the other, else you
overdo the bilateral symmetry and look ike a
lointed doll.
But it is when woman moves that real diff
cultes arise Many girl who makes capital out
OF handsome arms when she throws them into
relief on The tennis ground flaps like seal Ii she
shakes hands IN drawlng-r0om. Inc dlnerence
is partly III the environments partly, sometimes,
in the gown There IS no getting graceful
motion If your dress has French mt at The
shUulder-seams. Most women think there Is
hne reserve III restrained gestlculatlon, ana IL Is
true that Tue woman does not exist who can
atliludiniZe in private lie without considerable
danger OF making herself ridiculous IL
been calculated II pretty girl iu-
duIges in movement as charming ana natural
as that Of raising her arms TO adjust her hair;
But because u woman's arms must be kept well
within the picture and backed against the per-
son. 1t does not follow that she should move her
arms, as most women do, only from The elbows.
No gesture could be worse possibly. IL expresses
the lItle the petty, the ungracious, the over
anxious to enter The camp OF The 400. Ii stamps
woman at once as nervous ana awkward. an
oyerprown schoolgirl Every dlgnihed arm mo-
ton starts from Tie shoulder. In THIS way only
eau one get curve Or swing. Elbow motion Is
mechanical, all angles.
You can Tell much about woman by the way
in which she shakes hands. The pump handle
motion, fashionable this past winter, was dis
tnctly vulgar, almost us much so as the present.
squaiiDg OF The shoulders, extension OF Inc
elbows and staggering clutch OF the pocket
which is sold TO one girl In every four with her
spring jacket. Many woman who is grace
fully cordial with intimate falls back on n
maIionette-iike wagging from the elbow If called
upon 10 say How do you dO?" TO an important
person Of whom she stands somewhat IN awe.
The giving of Tie hand must be whole arm
notion but the AT should not be extended at
fun length. except in impulSve welcome; II may
be kept rather near the body and The hand al
lowed TO fall low.
The harp the either. the violin are so many
chances for arms. IL girl IS round llmbed
II is getting almost impossible for her TO look at
the pictures of the Fompelan pipe players and
Greek girls playing the tubar without going
straIghtway 10 join a ladies' orchestra. Mrs.
Ella DIeiZ Clymer owes much Of her reputation
as the beautiful" President OF Soross to her
use OF her arms. She never forces them. If she
dlsposes herself statuesquely against tire high
back OF her carved chair she Is content with SO
much of picturesqueness as is compatible with
the calm pOise OF u good presiding officer. Ii oe-
caSion arises for her 10 throw an active express
sion INTO Oer posture she gets JUST the permls-
sible effect, mo'e e, less, out of her graceful
arms. But DO woman of the Stage has the act
Tesses' opportunity.
FtlI-o
armsi a little heavy, perhaps, and suggesting
the Turkish bath rather Than the sunshine, but
strong throughout and finn; such arms as speak
of The fullness OF recognition before the coming
OF the marks OF times Invasion.
Julia MarlOwe has a 1.-The, graceful, young
arm. Ii reminds one OF Margaret Mathers be-
fore that young woman quarIe led with her maI-
ager and began TO grow fesny. And yet Miss
Marowe's arm was always toe long Miss Mar
lowe is exqulstely proportloned and clearly,
daiutlly modelled. Ii Is a Diana arm, or rather
that of one of Dana's nymphs more youthful
than the huntress. II has about 1t no mark of
passion.
Mrs. KendaPs arm when she is on the stage Is
like her face as one sees 1t of the stage serenely
and nealthfuiIy matronly. He upper arm is Pc
culiarly muscular. Her skin has creamy lint
and lhe elbow is irrepToachable; but there is
certain exactness, not amounting TO precision,
about her arm motions which cODtradcts the
yUuthiulness OF some OF her characters and re-
miCds one of her children and her many virtues.
Carmeuctta could not have become the rage
she Is but for her soft, olve-tnted, exp essye
arms that dance quite as much as her feet, but
are even more graceful as they lie heavily on her
knees after the impassiOned performance that
during their music-quickened life as they wave
aud circle above her piquant dark-eyed face.
Lii Lehman has extremely handsome arms.
A sculptor might model them. You never APP
preciate their beauty when she Is on the stage
because your attention Is distracted by her
Orauge-cO0Ied wig aud the yards on yards of
cashmere with which she curiously dis6gures
the goddesses OF W alfalfa. If she would only
give them half a chance her arms are splendidly
warm-sklnned maJestically strong the very
arms of Bruuhilde or Isolde.
PaIPs arms are like pearl satin In color and
texture Mrs. HOdgson Burnett treats her arms
about the least skilfuliy, and Genevieye Stebbins
has about the best arms OF contemporaneons
femininity. Mrs. Burnetrs arm Is short and too
heavy aud yet she will sleeve 1t In argepatterned
brocades and even allow big round pun 10
shorten il still more at the elbow. Geneveve
Stebbins tie Delsartean, Is big, lovely woman,
and she has big, lovely arm, like Judlc's, but
better finished md more delcately modelled.
The skin is transparent and ruddy, AID there is
more force In II than Is sometimes shown in
sturdy rolls and knots OF muscle.
or society bellies, Mabel Wright, now Mrs.
Yznaga had perhaps the widest spread reputa-
ton Tor arms
Miss Elizabeth Blsland has the pretllsst arms
OF any writing woman, with young and virginia.
delicacy of rounding.
The prettiest wrist ever saw belonged to
mite OF school. teacher less than five feet high,
who was built hand and foot like an intagli0
Venus. The eommonest fault in a woman's arm
Is too large All elbow. There Is petulance and
not strength III Sucn dn articulation. ENefyD0uY
remembers the struggle OF Mrs. James Brown
Potter's teachers with her irrepressbes.
FORTUNES IN TEA-CUPs.
Fortune-teller TO the -Four Hundred" 1t
wouldn't be bad sign. and really there is
woman who might almost lay claim 10 the dis
tincton, for IN The revolution OF fads and fash
ions in lheir orbits that which is Oldest comes
round again. or course not girl OF them would
own 10 being superslltious, but TO put on ones
d" swagger" spring suit and pay swagger price
Tor visit to Il daik-eyed woman with a red tur.
ban marked with Egyptian characters about her
head lends mid flavor OF Interest TO an after
noon. The woman is clever for she really keeps
an owl. It's great mistake for a sorceress to
grudge little additions like that to her parapher-
MALTA. She wears broad heavy bracelets on her
wrists and wraps something red about her Shout
ders. Otherwise her environment Is prosalc,
aud, she being for The moment III luck, quite un-
mysteriOusiy and Enthusiastically comfortable.
She las taught all fashionable New York that
to dream You see poet is sign you will lose
money. 1t Is supposed that this will widen the
gap between Bohemia and McAllsterviile. A
girl who was gong abroad for the London sea
sou dreamed duke was in love with her and
was very much cast down on learning that she
would be apt to marry needy and shitless fell
low. We all d. cad nowadays TO dream Of stock
iugS. unless the are cotton ones. of broken