The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1890-05-18
Special Correspondence of SUNDAY HERALD.

Special Correspondence of SUNDAY HERALD.
NEW YORK, May l6, 1890.
Next to the owner of yacht, the one man in
New York who is courted, caressed, and feted
all the year round. is the one who possesses
coach. Every woman hopes not only to get an
invitation, but the invitation, that is to say, a
seat by the driver, the one place where she can
see and be seen (the latter most importantly best
of all. A fashionable four-in-hand now looks
like movable flower garden, for every host of
a coach tries to get the prettiest women on top
and those who best understand the art of dress.
Sensby enough most of them are adopting the
English fashion of wearing cotton gowns, but as
these cotton gowns made with great care, of
pretty colors and have a French cdchet upon
them it almost goes without saying they cost as
much as would a wool or silk.
LOVELY WOMAN ON A COACH.
A pink, heliotrope, or blue print frock, over
topped by n hat rich with roses and gay para
sol, is much more effective than any other toilet,
and the pretty girls have been the first to dis
cover this. The sailor hat, which the young,
saucy-faced girl so defantly wears, is prettily
enough, shrouded not in mystery, but in tulle.
The tulle starts from under the front of the
brim. comes to the back, and is then arranged
in soft, high loops drawn forward over the crown
and fastened down with pearl,headed1 es1 pms ms
are used for this arrangement. which has on
the trying hat somewhat softening effect. But
greatest amount of attention on her silk stock
ings and coquettish little shoes. which invari.
ably match her gown, unless, indeed. it is one of
those colors that cannot be matched, and then
all black foot dressing is permitted. With her
or she G @ sss raS sf & seare
she wears scarlet. with brown an all brown, ana
with white she is radiant in white silk and white
undressed kid. She looks so absolutely spotlesS
in her all white getup that you feel she has
studied ,Solomon's, Injunction and is gownng
herself "in pure white" though Of course she
does not do anything more than read the latter
part of it, which suggests oiling her hair.
SERPENT ORNAMENTS AGAIN STYLISH.
Whether by special edct of Madame Bern
hardt, one of the few women who control the
fashions, or because the study Of Egyptology
seemed to lead the way, or what may be the
reason, it cannot be denied that the serpent
woman is again to the fore. Personally, think
it is because some of the beauties are beginning
to get well on in their thrties and an extremely
young woman cannot do the serpent act. One
who understands every adjective descriptive of
Adams first wife, Lilith, and who knows that
the black and gold, green and gold, and brown
and gold suit her to perfection, posed in Del
monco's the other evening, as the nineteenth
century edition of the veritable original female
serpent.
SHE BRIsTLED WITH sERPENTs.
She had on black satin gown that showed
here and there CLINT of gold; it was fashioned
SO that it fit the figure closely, had q semi-train,
which showed an inclination to swirl" around
as tail might, while, although the material
seemed simply like outer skin, it fit so closely,
she herself could bend her body almost as we'll
as does Carmencita. Her bonnet was one of
those atrocities that a French millner has i'm
posed upon an innocent public. 1t was glitter
ing black serpent cOiled around with his head
just in front, his eyes of two imitation emeralds
while the narrow black velvet ties looped under
orif his one tail had been split in two and how he
liked il. Around her throat coiled gold
serpent, on her wrist was another. wedding ring
was guarded by serpent IN green enamel, with
diamond eyes, and really the rOsetteS on her
black satin slippers were also formed of tiny jet
serpentS that initiated her bonnet. 1t was i'm
possible to express her in any other way than to
call her "slimy." a man sitting near said he
wouldn't touch her for all the Astor real estate
with the vanderbilt money added to it.
THE BoY.GIRL OF TODAY.
An absolute contrast to the serpent-woman is
the boy-girl. She looks fast, but at least she
looks healthy, which is more than can be said of
the woman who is initiating the wicked old third
party in the Garden of Eden. The boy-girl calls
flower she likes "bute;' she gays she's ''in with
the boys and for her part she don't want to go to
the theatre unless she can sit in the front row.
She is blessed in not knowing what pain or an
ache is, and she's up IN the morning. if not ex-
She swings her arms as she walks, proving that
she has been physically culturlng' herself all
winter. She wants to have good time, and to
she's eager to initiate her brother in everything.
Bless her little heart. she don't mean any harm.
and If she finds any pleasure in living behind a
stiff shirt front let her have it. She counts her.
self well set-up" when she has kilt skirt of
plain black cloth, a cutaway coat, a stiff white
shirt showing three white buttons, and low cut
wastcoat OF some loudly figured material. Her
collar is very high and broken at the corners in a
fashion that she describes as the gates ajar."
SHE WEARS A FoUR-IN-HAND SCARF
Which she ties in the most puffy fashion and
which she would scorn wearing ready made. A
stiff edge of linen shows below her coat-sleeves
and her gloves are heavy four-buttoned ones OF
that brckred color which is ferociously called
"beefs blood" Her umbrella is strapped very
tight; the one femninity she allows herself abou
1t is its round top which is OF pink coral with
tiny gold band. Her hat is stiff sailor of blacl
and white striped straw, with black band O
ribbon around it, and her hair cut short anC
closely curled to her head, doesn't show beloy
the brim except at the back The bangles il
which she used to delight, the string of golt
beads that for a while made her happy, have al
been taken to the jeweler from whom they wer
gotten, and he graciouSly allowed her their pric
as old metal, and then she paid the difference am
took it out in shirt buttons.
THE GIRL WOULD BE BOY.
The funniest thing about her is that she car
ries something that feminnity has always ah
horred-that is, a good-szed handkerchief. /
is of plain white linen with hemstitched border
and in one corner is embroidered her name jus
as her latest adorer writes it. If by any chanc
II can be twisted INTO a sem blance of being mas
cullne IT is done; for instance, Alice is cut dow
TO AL" Josephine becomes joe" France
and the happy girl, happy now. by the by, bu
VINO mas been oDJectlng TO her godfathers an
godmOthers for naming her Johanna, eXults be
cause she can have Jack" or Johnny" in on
appearances she has forgotten French and I,
use her own sweet words she is ION TO" the lates
London slang.
WHY THE BOY-GIRL WILL NOT BE POPULAR