Beverly banner. [volume] (Beverly, N.J.) 1877-1964, 1890-04-19
The Stovepipe Hat.

The high silk hat-the plug, the
stovepipe, call it what you willis a
comparatively modern institution.
About sixty years ago the silk tile was
introduced into England from Florence.
Since then the stove pipe has under
gone many strange transformations.
The early silk hat was rough af-
fair 1t was so heavy that the English
dudes Of that time complained that "it
was like carrying bushel basket"
Besides it was clumsy and hard to
handle | did not have the fine tap
ering crown which adds to its pictur-
esqueness, nor did it have the symmetri-
cal curling brim. Contemporary pic
ture and cartoons in London Punch
gave one fair idea Of the styles then in
vogue. Thus, the cockney sported one
kind of high hat ; the turfman an
other kind the gentleman another,
while the dons and undergraduates of
Oxford and Cambridge had their pc
culiar style.
Then, again, there has been quite a
change of opinion in regard to the
wearing Of silk hats. Some years ago
the young man that wore a silk hat
was marked individual His stove
pipe became the but of wit and ridi-
Guile even among his friends, and the
target of the small boy. For change
of sentiment about the silk hat almost
oxyarvt i ipo, 10 dino 70 tba p,opufo ot mo
who has made the tile the thing of
beauty and joy forever. Recently
we had talk with prominent Broad
way manufacturer on the subject.
eyes," said he, "there have been
great improvements in the methods of
making silk hats. Now what do you
suppose the body of this one is made
off," at the same time holding up a
glossy silk tile. We admitted our in
ability to answer the question.
"Well the body of this silk hat is
Calico
"Calico ?"
eyes. You see, there are two kinds
of silk hats-light and heavy weight.
Most of the bodies of the heavy hats
are made of felt
GLOW is the silk put ON p
"The body of the calico or felt is
first dipped into hot water and then
stretched on block. After drying the
body is stiffened with solution of gum
shellac and alcohol, and afterward
with solution of varnish to prevent it
striking through the surface A cover
of fine silk plush is then cut and sewed
to fit exactly the body. When the
silk covering is accurately fitted it is
smoothed with hot iron. The heat
striking into the glue dissolves it and
in drying connects the silk plush with
the body. This explains why severe
wetting ruins silk hat
The hat is then placed on a revol-
wing cylinder, where it is polished with
soft cloths. The process Of dressing
and polishing is known as 'veluring.
The glossy appearance comes from
the application Of hair cloths and
velvet 'velures' to the nap of the silk.
"What kind of plush do you use ?"
"The best silk plush is imported
from France. 1t usually comes in
three pieces-for the tip, crown and
brim. The skill consists in knowing
how to put on silk plush on so that the
seam will be invisible to the eye.
Down along the sides Of the crown the
edges are allowed to lay over. They
are then pressed together by hot iron
and finished perfectly smooth by means
of revolving brushes"
"After hat is finished as to the
crown and brim, it is lined with water
ed or embossed paper, and a strip of
enameled leather is sewed around the
inside edge. Then it is bound and
banded. Lastly the completed hat is
wrapped in tissue paper and put into
a box for the retailer"