New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-04-12
MINISTER'S Nisl
tynom A srAvr CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRiBUSs.l

Cordova, A. T., January 25.
A glimpse Of the medieval in this South
American Yankee-land has the effect OF starting
surprise The Argentine, i'll the historic oroer
~ sett,omcnt is one Of the oldest countries in
Tho New World The Plate was discovered by
Soils in 1873 and within twelve years Sepastill
Cabot was in the heart of the continent. eN-
ploring the Parana and the Paraguay MENDOZA
laid the foundations OF Buenos Ayes In 1888,
landing at the mouth of the Rlachuelo, where II
borbor and a series OF docks are now under con-
structjon for the commerce of a city OF over
200 600 population. Paraguay was conquered IN
1896 and was converted into centre Of Spanish
mower in South America Before the end OF the
century the Spaniards had invaded what is now
Central and Western Argentine from Peru ana
Chilli planting settlements at Mendoza, Iucuman'
Salta, Jujuy, San Luis and CordoVa Jesuit
missionaries accompanied the pioneers. ana en-
tered upon the humane work Of civilislng the
natives Cordova. founded by Cabrera in 1913,
was the chief seat Of Jesuit learning in South
America for two centuries. university was
established in the town as early as 1913 PRINT
ing press was set in notion and the first books
published on this side Of the Andes were edlted
and revised by learned Jesuit priests connected
with the college Cordova has not lost the aspect
of n medieval town. La Plata has been built
within ten years Rosario, after langushing
existence for 80 years is now q fourshing centre
of commercial enterprise and Bucnos Ayrcs alter
many viclssitudes OF fortune, is the metropolis
of South America, and is fairly pulsating with
the spirit Of modern life and progressive enter
nrise Those newer and more characteristic ArGen-
tine cities belong TO the present age OF Intense
vitality and impetuous industrial development.
This GRIM quaint town is a relic OF mcdiacVal
learning and religion and seems out OF place IN
an Argentine Of mercantile hustle and speculative
vagares.
A first stroll in Cordova reveals a city of antique
churches. encompassed by hills approaching the
dignity of mountains. Time-won and battered
towers and domcs loom up in every street toward
the centre of the town. Fronting on tie Plaza
stands the Cathedral, with its Oriental facade
doubc towers and massive dome. The interior
nfv be cold and repclne. but have seen nothing
in South America more picturesque, especially
in the mellow light of early evening. than TINS
grim. battlementcd pile. fashioned like strong
hold of faith. Not far away is the Jesuit Church.
with medallion paintings of Tie chief saints OF
the Order, and ceiling Of carved cedar which Is
said 20 have been picced together without hammer
or screw The Jesuit missionaries here. as III
Paraguay. taught the native converts 10 be eXpere
wood -carvcrs and this is one OF the Oldest samples
of their work The metal with which it is orna-
and the shabby building itself sorely in need OF
rcpairs but when one has seen hundreds OF pad
COPIES of the Renaissance churches OF Southern
Europe il is refreshing 10 find an honest ALBEIT
dingy, bit of medieval architecture. There are
O. dozen churches in addition 10 those when nave
mentioned, all Of them filed with bad paintings
and ornamented with tnsel and gilt, black with
age and dust There are, besides ruined monas-
ferries converts with orange trees i'll the interior
courts. and orphanages where girls are taught
by Carmete nuns 10 make lace
There arc signs Of the outbreak Of restoration
nania in the ecclesiastical structures. Decorators
are at work in several Of the churches.
and the new tones of color contrast
STRANGELY with the time-stained WOODWORK
and faded frescoes and medallions. ana
with the blackcncd and crumbllng towers bola
et,cmDts are making 10 modernize one or two OF
the churches This is the first stage OF q rcstora-
ton movement. In the end many OF them may
be reformed out of existence. MediaeVallsn'
while picturesque, has its drawbacks II IS IA
wet blanket upon the business Of the town Cor
dova suffers in a commercial sense from having
the reputation of being old and musty. The norid
modern architecture of the new pubic bulidlngs
near tie Plaza is a loud protest against reaction
ary tendencies which Tetard tue natural progress
OF the city. But ornate these handsome struct-
T.,
and beauty with the old Moorish Cabildo which
adioins the Cathedral That has symmetry
and q simplicity perfectly in keeping with the
general lines of architecture OF an antquatcd
Spanish town.
The University is as quaint as the Cathedral
the churches and the Cabido. 1t occupies four
sides of quadrangle, and, while revealing uie
ravaces OF time, il is stately and impressive On
one size is the graduation hall, where degrees are
conferred There is q fu-ength portrait OF the
worthy Bishop who founded the University early
in the seventeenth century, exhaustIne his pr-
vate fortune in his zeal for good letters The
class-rooms are approached from flight Of mar
bic steps and spacious cloistcrs favorable Tor
study. How large the swarms Of students
that rife the honey of wisdom from The flower Of
learning 70 lean and possibly dred-up professors
DO rot know Ihis'is the summer vacation ana
the undergraduates are not IN the quadrangle.
There is a chemical laboratory well-stOcked with
apparatus, and there is staff of German pro-
1essors employed, mainly in teaching the natural
sciences. Under Jesuit administration the Uni
versity had library of great range in Latin and
Spanish literature, including all the earliest pub
LEGATIONS in South America. When the Jcsuits
were expelled from Spanish America i'll 1867. the
University lost It's prestige. The cass-rooms were
deserted: Tie library was neglected. The liter
ary collections made by the learned fathers with
painstakng care were scattered and squandcrcd,
q remnant being rescued for the National Library.
The story goes that conlectOncrs and grOccrs OF
the town used the precious pages for many years
as wrapping paper for their candies, soap and con
dies. So wantOn desecration OF literary treas
ures might well have suliced 10 wiring moaning
Sic non vObLs from the white lips OF the
Jesuit fathers whose portraits hang in the adlon
ing church. For a century the University was
hardly more than provincial high-scho0l.
new impulse has been impaired 10 II by the re-
cruiting of the s,a,n OF professors with European
talent and il ranks with the University Of
Buenos Ayres. Americans have been identified
with the National Observatory. which occupies
a commanding position high ground The
clearness of the atmosphere here facilitates astro-
nomical study and the work Of mapping the south-
ern heavens has been undertaken with marked
success. Dr. benjamin A. Gould published 700
MAPS each showing about fifty stars. The dicc-
W, W u VI -. ~. Ii.1nao IN Americ.n