Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-09-20
ABOUT FALL FASHIONS.
Some Things That Women Want to
Know,
WHAT TO GET FOR OCTOBER.
Suggestions About Col0rs and Mate.
riais-Advico ." Making Over a Dress
"A Characteristic French Costume
Preparing an Outfit for Baby.
Written for THx EVENING STAR.

Written for THx FvKSINo star.
o. ETWEEN daisies end chrysan.homums |
lfkSWthere is not much of novelty that can be |
His &depended on for lasting good style. |
z <Women venture on their own fancies in
%S)drcss ut this time of the season and
some happy designs result. navy blue dress
with brick-red trimmings does not sound en-
yet it was the prettiest thing seen in
weeks. 1t was evidently worn by an artist: at
least in feeling who thought out her own
gowns. The blue was the very darkest clear
color Of cloth, the narrow blouse vest, the deep
cuffs OF the simple sleeve and the plating
which showed in the slashed skirt were dull
red, which hnrmonized gravely and perfectly
with the marine hue. The combination Of
color is one which appears in the rich confused
plaids Of shaggy tweed and flannel. whose nap
blends the colors softly. These plaids are the
gowns going up to the mountain houses where
the elite linSsr. knowing the best Of the year is
with them. Tho shape preferred by private
modistes who supply the most fastidious women
IL the long
PLArx FRENCH PELIssE
or close dress, with deep cape coming below
the waist. with the high shoulders, q costume
graceful and appropriate to the season. Plaids
are made for drapery, or long folds, not for
slender, tight-ftting dinner gowns or evening
wear. Toques worn with plaid dresses are of
gimp with folds Of plaid for the brim and bows,
or clusters of plain ribbon in the several col0rs
OF the plaid, which has a good effect. The
most brilliant African bird wings are seen ON
mats, fashion set by London society in COM
piment to Mr.. Stanley, it is said, and the
women who protested against the cruelty OF
wearing the pumage which costs the life Of
hAnDv an mr. all fho frla vora
only shared painlessly and killed instantly the
cruelty would be less, only that it is sad to put
80 much innocent happiness out OF the world for
vanity's sake. But the wreath Of thirteen deli
cate little wings round a hat, seen often. or the
long, slender wing Of some graceful. darting
troplc bird. always seems to have blood on it.
and bear the rent, mangled, quivering flesh
which was attached to Ii.
VERY DIsTINaUH DRESS
made lately in Paris for one OF the ladies of the
French nobility suggests the lines which fash
lon is to adopt. A walking dress OF suede gray
cloth 10 made with high plain bodice and four
reau or plain sheath skirt with lengthwise
bands Of otter-colOred velvet tapering to the
waist and trimming the bodice. The narrow
sash OF black MORE ribbOn-not more than
three inches wide-with pearled edge, was tied
IN loop that hung to the knee, while the ends
fell to the hem. The sash was tied on the right
hip. The black robe adds distinction to all
these light colors. The same design would be
more graceful in wide fat pleats, allowing
plain velvet to appear between the pleats.
A California lady writes for hints about
dress, which will be of interest to many others.
She is "a young wife and mother, twenty years
OF age, five and half feet tall, rather slender,
fair faced, light-brown hair and blue eyes. Has
one dress made redingote at present; would
like to altor it; no sample inclosed; wishes to
purchase another dress rather nice. Is entire
black suitable for q young mother?" The DAYS
for wearing black will come soon enough.
though black silk gown Of good quality sees
more use than almost anything to be named
for American society. II young woman wears
black 1t must be very gay black much ruff
ned and trimmed. glittering with fine Jet and
hShtened with good white lace for neck and
wrists. changing with blouse fronts Of white
silk muslin, having collar and cuffs of the same.
No limit is made as to expense so we will take
1t for granted, as it 10 safe to do, that the
writer wishes to expend no more than il neces-
sary to make good appearance ON her first
visit home with baby. In the first place she
should not make the cloth dress over in COM
bination with black, as she suggests, for COM
bination suits are only seen In expensive cos
tunes. Let her make
THE GOWN INTO FRENCH WAIST,
with trim skirt gathered in the back, or il Il is
a narrow gored skirt, she may leave the seams
open five inches on the hem to show q bias
velvet founce or silk knife pleatng under it.
Or the skirt may be laid in fat box pleats, with
silk showing between each two, at front and
sides, the bodice taking shape as q blouse
pleated into belt without fril, and . long,
narrow sash ribbon be worn with it. The
small pointed velve. belt however, is adyis-
able with baby to disarrange ribbous The
silk and velvet used should be a darker shade
OF the dress, or something harmonizing very
nicely with It, as chestnut with fawn, or red
brown with terra Gotta. As the wearer Ia
short and slender. she should not try to wear
plain-ftting bodices or basques, or draped
skirts, no matter il it ID the fashion to wear
baskets in the painters and swaliow-tailsd
coats. In Californis in October nothing would
which is not at all loud, as its name
would imply, but straight box-pleated skirt
and short jacket, easy fitting in the back fasten-
ing by one button across the silk or lsine
blouse which forms the waist to the suit in
doors, with big soft sash or q silk belt. The
blazer dress is utterly out of style on 9Th ave-
nue., which runs its fashions to death in six
weeks, but English women were wearing them
at the fall races, Of the highest fashion, and at
Cowes in very pretty style. For instance, a
a charming young lady, q white serge jacket
and skirt with bright blue .'hard-fronted"
shirt, AZ Britons call the starched cambria
shirt, with black satin tie for a rather fast
society woman, not SO young. One young girl
Of the best possible family wore an entirely
with pink shirt-and why in goodness wasn't
some artist wise enough to paint her in that
delicious stylish simplicity.
ToR WEAR AND APPEARANCE
the choice may lie between good American
black failie which will see ten years service
with care if strict but GENTLE thrift is desired
or dark brocade in dark heliotrope or dahlia
for fhese puppies and purplish fire reds have
the advantage over almost every other color,
seem less positive than any thing else One
will remember the blue dress, the terra Gotta,
the green or golden brown, year after year and
ten Of their appearing, but the dull puppies,
leather or dahlia shades are 20 agreeable and 20
evasive that they never weary, aud one recoR-
niZes their unobtrusive softness with welcome.
Get good silk, but don't trim il to death, that
il, not expensiyely, at first Its gloss and
freshness carry themselves well enough, but
when il begins TO show wear, the velvet and
passementerie will be kind to its failings and
give . new responsibility. But if there
u certainty Of silk gown later, our lit
tie matron will do lust a. well, 20 long A.
there il a baby in the case, to have something
more youthful, dark, clear blue cashmere or
dahlia-faced cloth, With the braided or enbroi-
dered sleeves, belt and border 10 the skirt
Velvet sleeves and girdle voula probably be
moro convenient under the circumstanoes Or
gay little gown Of check wool. in dark red.
blue and black, with bouretts threads or YER
tical lines Of golden russet, made With plain
skirt, slightly draped in front, and coarse silk
open stitch above the hem and Q dash,ne Nttle
Norfolk jacket and belt, with biue velvet coliar
and feelings 70 the Guns, would be stylish and