The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-07-06

of wooden floors; but generally mother
earth serves that purpose. Each room IS
furnished with
DIRT-CoATED DEAL TABLE,
a bench or two, and perhaps chair may be
had for the asking. Most of them contain
the barest outlines OF bedstead made OF
poles dashed together and corded up with
rawhide thongs. But these are such abom-
nations in the way of rolling toward the
middle and of being infested with every
species of bugs known to beds, that the eX-
perienced traveller prefers the floor, with
nothing worse than heas for company.
1t is generally long after dark before one
has reached his tambo and thrown hlmseif
down, thoroughly exhausted, while the
mozo and muleteer attend to the animals
and bring inside the luggage, saddles and
all. BY and by an Indian slouches IN,
ragged and dirty beyond degree; or bare
legged boy who has, apparently, all his lie
entertained the aversion of mad dog Tor
Water=who proceeds TO hanl out the dirty |
table and TO spread upon it, without cloth |
between, whatever may have been prepared
in the line of food. The big bowl of chupe
is sure to be Steaming hot, not to mention
its aji and if any other dish is furnished 1t
is served as a separate course with all the
ceremony of a presidential banquet, coffee
coming in after the rest is removed. Bread
v y,
to be thought of; and it will be well If your
hamper contains few such Injuries, by
way of change, as canned beef, devlled
ham and dulcies. Throughout the valley
of the Yangas boiled bananas are extern
sively used in place of bread, and make
palatable and nourishing substitute.
AS SOON AS THE MEAL is CONCLUDED
nothing is to be thought of but needed rest.
The ladies retire to their apartments, the
| gentlemen to theirs; the arriero and mozo
lay themselves down on guard outside the
door; the mules are tethered not many
yards away {they probably occupy and ad-
Joining apartment, precisely like their own,
barring the beds and tables;) and every
body sleeps the dreamless sleep of the
weary until aroused next morning by the
, watchful arriero at the first glimmer OF
dawning. $50
Then ones troubles begin afresh. For
example, such an article as wash-bowl IS
an unknown quantity on the road to un-
| gas. After raising sufficient riot in Span
) ish, English and Indian, wooden bowl
NAV be brought, holding a gallon or more
5 of water, in which all the guests of the inn
are expected to lave in turn, gallantry Civ
ing the first, chance to the ladies. Soap and
. towels one must provide for himself or go
, without.
: About the time you are in the most en-
: barrassing part of your toilet the ragged
L Indian or unwashed urchin Of the night be
4 fore, comes in without the preliminary OF
knocking, and calmly proceeds to spread
5 the festive board with desaauno, or the
q early breakfast of the country, which con
b sists of nothing on earth but bitter coffee
. without milk, unless you choose to add to il
d a BUTTERFLIES lump of your own bread Thi:
o YOU swallow shiveringly in the pale morn
f ing twilight of the mountains; aud having
a paid as much for the entertainment as fol
5 the same length of time in a New Yorl
: hotel, the mules are brought up, and agail
:, you sally forth,
THANKING HEAVEN FOR HAVING PRBsERvEI
e YOU
n thus far, but feeling extremely doubtful a
e to the future. Almuerzo, or second break
e fast, consisting also of chupe and coffee i
is sure to be found some where along the roa
between 10 and 2 o'clock; and by that tim
your appetite is ''sharp set'' enough to en-
JOY it.
sr The greatest artist that ever lived coul
10 not convey with brush and colors an ade
Y, quate idea of the awe-inspiring grandeur c
Id the Andes and certainly no pen-pictur
lg can do them the faintest justice. Nose
m may have beheld similar sights en- cloud
ht wrapped Sinai, as he listened to the voic
O. O. the Lord. AS our journey led near to th
HI Bolivian headwaters of the Amazon, W
er crossed the last interior spur of the Andea
q, system. Not many Of the Anglo-Saxo
s. race have ever penetrated these innermos
We recesses of the mountains, and Of that nun
ut Der few were women.
eS This seventh range shows, for 300 hur
u dred miles, a succession of sharp, snow
ne capped peaks, each presenting to the yves
he ward sheer cliff, many thousands of fe
ne high which looks like gigantic sugar-loa
'in split in the middle, the fallen half piled
ng low in q chaos of slate-li1e debris. See
from distance, their bare and totally ina
u, cessible sides look as black as ink in COZ
x trast with the extensive snow fields abov
Is, which the foot of man or beast has new
trodden. Occasionally a condor is seen
a the poets "proud bird of the Andes''
all slowly circling to his home above t
ay clouds.
-er For most of the way the road winds
of ROUND AND ROUND THE MOUNTAIN SIDES
ly, at an enormous height, up and down, a
Tor sharply curying, sometimes being regul
bic series of stairs cut into the solid rock. o
In of these stair-like passages is several mil
long, with abrupt turns and zgzags, up
down which our beasts picked their W
with the utmost care
MS In this sort OF travelling the great poi
of is to gain perfect confidence in your al
ok NAL and be sure that the saddle girths q
asst kept as tight as he can bear it; then to
NY your eyes on the heavenly views, regar
the less Of sublunary things. Not an ed
not thing at all times, to keep your head in I
rst clouds while maintaining q firm seat on I
wn back of a mule.
md Such waterfalls and cascades as CO.
md tumbling down from unknown heights,
to the valley, far, far below; some of tn
sc. rivaling in magnifcence our own Niaga
ur- or anything the Yosemite can show; WI
IL, the river, which fills the centre of the n
lex row valley SO far below our aerial trs
cen that it looks like thread of silver, is
jop, reality a raging cataract, Gashiug O.
Gus giant boulders with a noise like thund
ong for more than fifty miles outdoing
SO rapids above Niagara, and nowhere M
of gable in all its course. There are mo
ish tains on every hand, mountains eve
oW, where, stretching away to the horiz
ely while the range on the opposite side of
'om valley, parallel to this we are slowly tt
ook ersing, appears almost near enough to /
lalf a stone from one to the other.
tets When the lowIands were reached,
tho CAME THE NEW EXPERIENCE OF FoRDINt
ca the many small rivers that flow into
all large one; but we found it preferabl
our most of the bridges along the route-f
structures swung from tree TO tree,
itch swaying like cradles beneath us. At
rtsl point the road for a number of miles