Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-04-26
THE BRIGAND'S LAND.
Glimpses of the Strange Sicilian
Country Gained During
A JOURNEY AROUND MOUNT ETNA.
Picturesque and Poetic Scenes on Every
Hand, Along With
SAD EVIDENCES OF HUMAN MISERY
lconREspoNpENcR OF THE p1spArcH.I 1

Etna will suggest great opportunities for
Sicilian observation in traversing the circle
of cities and villages at the tremendous base
OF the mountain. A road such as it is,
nearly $50 miles long, forms the pinkish and
dirty thread upon which all these lava
threaded towns seem to be strung. Perhaps
fourth of the distance can be made by rail,
along the Ionian Sea at Etna's eastern base.
On our return from the ascent of Etna
persuaded Balbino to turn over the affairs
of his tiny alberghetto or inn to his grinning
and greasy helpmeet, and not only accom-
pany me on the tour around Etna, but to
then remain my companion across the entire
island to Palermo over the old road upon
which Roman, Grecian and vandal armies
chased each other back and forth with such
lively energy from 1000 to 1000 years ago.
As Palermo, the beautiful, is the i'm
perial city of every loyal Sicilian; as Bal
bino had never set eyes upon it. and this
would be his one chance OF lifetime for
seeing it; and as there was a pleasant re-
ward set at the other end of his friendly
services; after extraordinary excitement and
preparation for departure, we set out by rail
to Glardini, little nest of malaria and YER
min almost half way along the eastern Sicil.
ian coast to Messina. where we secured two
excellent donkeys, leaving one half of their
hire as caparra or earnest-money; made ex-
cellent provision for a weeks outdoor lie,
if the conditions of the lonely and filthy
roadside inns rendered that necessary; and
at once began climbing the mountain road,
leading from the sea to the little hamlet of
Gaggi, on our way around the northern
E1N l. @E I1E.- htrarr
the latter. we halted for last look at the
Ionian sea. To the northeast the lower
reach of the Italian peninsula was plainly
| visible across the Strait of Messina; score
of cities and villages showed their roofs
along the Sicilian shore-edge to the north;
and so near that it seemed one could toss
stone into its ruinous streets, lay Taormina,
the ancient Tauromenium, a perfect un-
housed museum of architectural monu-
ments of all ages.
OLD ETNA'S GRANDEUR.
We were travelling toward the source OF
the Alcantara river, and the road lays along
the brow of the mountain range above. The
flowing stream and its grand valley were
continually below US to the left. Beyond,
and constantly in view, rose another range
of mountains, and Etna's peak from Is to 20
miles distant loomed grandly above. Here
and there through Intervening valleys, were
caught glimpses of populous cities lying still
further up Etna's sides-Piedimonte peo-
pied by mountaineers; Linguagrossa and
Castiglione, where thousands OF the peasantry
are engaged exclusively in cultivation of
hazel nuts, and Mojo, standing against the
side of the most northern crater OF the Etna
region. Indeed, all the way from the sea
through Francavilla, where we rested at
noon, to Randazzo, which we reached be-
fore dark, the scenery in every direc-
ton is of an Alpine character. Deep
and clear-cut valleys. showing masses
of luxuriant yerdure; tremendous
peaks cutting sharp against
sky Of intensest blue; foaming rivers and
feathery mountain cascades continually
flashing upon the sight; high perched ruins
OF Hellenic, Roman and the later Norman
fortresses, everywhere reminding of heroic
past; and romantic capanne or huts peeping
from torest openings half way to the clouds;
with glints and CLEANS of color from the
clothing of shepherds and mountaineers; all
contribute to winsome blending of the
sublime, the romantic and the picturesque.
We could see nothing of Randazzo by
night; for Balbino found lodging for us at
the house of a friend, and the embracing,
chatter, pIpes wine and floods of fearful
"reminiscences of these folk separated only
d
as though they had girdled the earth for the
meeting, was an enthralling spectacle But
when the morning came and we had set out
again, our host running beside US for miles
on our way toward Bronte, and b ad got op-
posite the medieval rookery, what
A SCENE FOR A PAINTER
lay back there against the side of Etna.
Here were the peaks dividing the sources of
sl oh ~, h.
the north, and the Simeto, which sweeps
about it to the south. Behind Randazzo to
the north, the empurpled peaks we had Set
behind us the day before. To the east half
dozen ordinary mountains against the sun
swept sides of Etna like tiny purple warts
against its stupenGous contour. And then
ancient Randazzo perched above a deep
ravine, its Norman churches, tremendous
towers and ducal palaces, very apotheosis
of Middle Age magnifcence and power. One
cannot wonder at Frederick II. loving Ran
dazzo, "the populous," or for drawing the
magnificent old spot closer to his heart by
conferring the title OF Duke of Randaz-
20 upon one of his sons; nor can simple
minded Balbino be blamed for be-
lieving that his insignificant little island of
Sicily contains more area, wealth, power
and people than all the rest of the world.
Randazzo has a population of TO- 900 souls;
Bronte, which we reached tor midday rest,
fully 16, 900; Aderno, to which we came late
at night, IA, 600. Thriving villages dot the
way between. Yet all of these are actually
upon the sides of Etna, at times desolated,
but always fertilized. by its influence
The situation of Bronte, with its mass of |
rude houses, churches, converts and for
tresses is curious study in the freakful ac-
ton of Etna. 1t lies to the east of and |
above deep valley, its buildings piled |
along up the mountain side in most irreg- |
ular fashion. Close to it, and frowning |
above it, is a huge almost perpendicular |
mass of lava. Etna boiled over one day and |
the liquid mush of fire came slowly down, as
YOU have seen molten lead run-a river half |
a mile wide at times, 100 feet deep at its |
puffy, oozy, breaking front. 1t came almost |
straight toward Bronte, and the people scam
pered across the valley to see their city |
spunged out
DESTRUCTION AvERTED.
But Just before this could happen Etna |
had got through boiling The lava stood |
there in a great wall and cooled off. Be- |
tween the city and this precipice are now
the finest vineyards and olive groves in |
Sicily. Opposite the city to the west, mag
nifcent mountains lift their heads above the |
valley, and within the purple of their upper
the Cathedral of Traina and the Convent OF
st. Elias of Ambula, all founded by great
Roger the Norman, while toward the huge |
cone of Etna can be seen rising above each |
other the lesser craters of Minardo, Rovolo
and the Monti Lepre.
Bronte also gave to Lord Nelson duke
dom. The King of Naples, who conferred
it, compIimented Nelson with no empty
title. 1t nets revenues are still S15, 900 year
ly. Leaving the city in the direction of |
Aderno. the road is cut through tremendous
beds of lava; and we climbed one of the