Telegram-herald., 1890-01-27


tents are pas he1 south 81 1lberlAs. mid
saF tetveen u and the famous hot
ia. palr baths. once euloyed exclusively
tF rssa.ty ard nobility, bar now the
1f-c-a 20 which afflicted Jews and Cen
tues. fron near aud from afsr, make
tas.l wav % seek health IN their nai-
oloras-s waters. The baths are situated
on tha lanks oi the beautiful lAse Gale
iee We are enjoying truly deightiu
81 ssatl.er The temperature IS sbout :
degs Fahrenheit in tire shade balmy
breez-s temper tie warmth of the sun.
Horsas and donkeys. some standing,
oth.rs wing down, are resting comfort
IDLY after days or hard TOLL and our
various attendants are engaged ln an
apparently interesting conversation IN
Arabic. Along the beach natives. wear
ing picturesque costumes, are strolling
in eeaseless procession. IN occasional
caravan ~ stately camels gives Increased
variety - the scene. Ia the saloon tent
one of the walters is setting the table
for luncheon, singing 0r rather groauing
ia oriental style. which. DR.. Iaimage
saws, always reminds him Of pro-
tracted attack of nausea.
Less than "a quarter Of mile away
and hard by The ancient wall of Tberies
a number It Russian pilgrims OF both
sexes are bathing IN Lake Galilee. 4
hundred or 30, men. women and chill
dren, form a semicircle OF deeply in
terested spectators about these people.
who are clothed only in the garb Of
Eden. Immediately at the rear Of our
encampment Is what is known as the
Mount OF Beatitudes; and 1t seems 10 be
pretty well authenticated that there was
the place where Christ preached TO his
disciples and a wondering multitude
His Sermon on the Mount. Dr. Talmage
is lying on the beach Immediately IN
front of the encampment, with open
Bible before him. making notes in
mammoth memorandum book, while
the brilliantly reflected sunlight causes
his eyes 20 water. He. in common with
the rest OF the party, is tired for once,
but he feels that he must take advantage
of this first prolonged stop since he left
Jerusalem, to put into shape for his
Life Of Christ the notes taken since
our landing on the sacred soil Of Pales-
tine. ! write this letter sitting AZ the
door Of my tent, which is, by the way,
elaborately decorated with exquisite
specimens of Egyptian needlework.
The reader viii remember that ended
my last letter with our arrival in Jeru-
lon, ,f,v,,rr.l, tho To,,,, cote rTf,o e,,,,
was setting with great beauty at the
time, and for the first time in my life
realized the meaning Of the phrase, .Je-
rusalem the Golden" Golden looked the
domes and battlements Of the city in the
smile Of the declining sun.
We were made comfortable at our ho-
tel after the hard ride of the day, and re
NAMED within doors for the rest of the
evening. The condition Of the streets Of
Jerusalem does not invite going ont at
night. Rough roadways. much filth,
numerous stray dogs and little light are
not inviting 10 the man who is in good
quarters and in pleasant company. even
though he finds himself for the first timo
in his hfe in the most interesting city on
earth But we arose betimes TO begin a
comprehensive round Of sight seeing.
The Joppa gate, by which we entered
the city, Is near the northwest angle Of
the walls, and is one Of the four en-
frances through the walls Of the city. Il
j. q decaved looking structure, IN this
respect like almost all the buildings one
secs in Jerusalem, and though IT stands
fifty feet high and has battlemented
top IL would be found almost useless for
purposes of defense. When passing
within the walls one has TO make a turn
at right angles and is reminded Of the
ancient use Of walls and gates in keep
ing out enemies. These walls DO not in
close what is now the whole city, being
not more than perhaps two miles and
half long.
Though a city, as I have said, Of 10000
inhabitants, Jerusalem has not wei
within its walls. and the water used IS
either rain water kept from the last
rainy season some six months ago or
water carried in skins Of animals by men
or women. dOnkeys or camels, from
well, more or lees distant. With thou
sands ~ houses Jerusalem hasn't one
chimney. and tho traveller who. chilled
hv exposure or the humidity Of its vault
like dwellings, needs artificial heat must
be corteut with the poor comfort afford
ed bv brssier Of live charcoal. the sub
stitute for stoves in tho city. No vehicle
over endsngers Lfeor limb Of pedestrians
within its walls
Perhaps It is due 70 tho prejudice horn
If my religious training that not~ith-
standing All its discomforts and short
comiogs "a a city. IFS narrow lanes. in
numorable dark alleys. miserable arChi-
lecture its mi-e and it= flth 7 left JeTu-
salem 1itb many regrets 0f the city
D.. Ts.mare said - me. While I have
bon buldin- up my ideas Of Jerusalem
all r7v lifetime. tae highest summit of
n-~ expectation docs not reach the bass
or tho reality
Tho frst morning after our arrival
found ms on the summit of Golgotha the
place of skull. Or. TalmaZa opened
tae Bibia le always carries With him
AMI read the story IF the crulf Vion.
The party consisted az Mrs Talmage snd
u M=s Nav Taimage the writer ard his
wife. ~ whorn ths Doctor pointed ont AZ
ta arrrc pirate passage in tho narrati 20
tre Damascus Esta throuEh q Vnlcn fhe
Sr- = sad to have been led out -
fore tre trasic event lhat took place OF
the o1 vhi-h we were standing.
We stayed tnere untli afternoon. dep.
eraf e~f1re i-svlrE fr tar1a-7 81