Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1890-02-08

tapping at the door Of my old alcoba In the
humble inn to which our Gallegan guide had
conducted US. The tapping proceeded from
the knuckles of a harsh voiced criada or
maid servant who, on my demand that who
ever was knocking should enter, proceeded
first to inform me that no such unpardona-
BILE conduct on her part could be tolerated,
and then to say that one Pierre Floquet,
having bargained for the jacas he stood in
need of, had eaten his breakfast, dutifully
kissed the sacred esclavina, the grand finale
Of all pilgrimages to the famous cathedral of
Santiago, was now patiently waiting to bid
me final adios, after which he must speedi-
ly depart to his own people at desolate Fin
isterre. asked that he be sent to my alco-
ba. He came numbering and stumbling up
the stairs, and, hat in hand, entered the
room and approached my bedside. Poor
Pierre He was in tears. He sank upon his
knees beside me, poured forth vehement and
Aloouent blessings, and sobbed like child
as we oiasPea hands for the last time. FL
nally breaking away e-Auercome with
sadness he cried repeatedly, "Quede ustea
con Diosl"-"Quede usted con Diosl"
C'May you remain with God!'9-and precip-
itately disappeared into the courtyard and
calle below. I do not know how others may
feel or believe. but there is to me 60 sacred
place in the human heart for these accidental
and supremely loyal friendships of life, that
utter dolor would come in their enjoyment,
and but miserable regret be prompted in
their memory, were there not secret hope,
unquenchable longing and unconquerable
faith, that there were time and place for
their rekindling and re.enjoyment.
All there is of ancient Santiago worth
contemplation il this wondrous old cathe-
dral where Pierre had performed his adora-
ton. How it came to be built, and how for
centuries it remained the most luminous
shrine in western Europe, are more strange
and curious than can be told of any other of
the noble though decsying sacred edifices of
Spain. st. James, the elder, brother of st.
John, the apostle, was stoned to death at Je-
rusalem. st. James is the tutelar saint of
Spain, as is st. George of England, st. Denis
of France and St. Patrick of Ireland. Over
one thousand years ago, In 1885, Theodomir,
bishop of 1ria, SO runs the tradition, discov
cred the body of St. James, removed in
some miraculous manner from Jerusalem,
surrounded by o wondreus light in a dense
forest, to which q star led the way; hence
the name of the city, Santiago de Oampoe-
tella, or st. James Of the place of the star,
to which the body was removed by Leon
III, from the chapel already erected at the
place of disooveryby Theodomir, and Santia-
90 was raised to see. A corn-rent or Ell
Voto of ono bushel per acre was collected
from all Spain, yielding yearly revenue of
nearly one million dollars, which was con-
not single creation of single architect or
period; but has been the result Of untold vo-
tive offerings since the frst wondrously
splendid basilica was built by Alfonso the
Great, between the years 866 and 91O. This
was destroyed, the tomb Of st. James alone
being respected by the vandal, Al-Manssour,
at his capture Of the city; rebuilt by Bishop
Bermuda II. in the eleventh century made
extraordinary repairs and additions. This
devout Spanish king also built great roads,
which still exist as national highways, and
over which moro armies have passed than
any other roads In Europe within the Chris
tian era, for the pilgrims from France and
those from central Spain; for Santiago was
once the most frequented and celebrated
shrine in Christendom. An entire page
would be required to give adequate descrip-
ton of this noble edifcs; but the chair
stalls, carved by Gregorio Espanol in 1905;
the bronze pulpits, by Celma in 1868; the
massive, magnificent and unrivalled Portico
de la Gloria, the mighty western entrance;
and the tomb and efdgies of st. James; are
all unequalled examples in ecclesiastical art
The latter two are wonderful indeed. The
ria Is the Last Judgment, with Christ pro-
ceeding from the root of Jesse. This repre-
sentation Is illimitably more than enough to
have given Nateo Immortality as eel Macs
tro" of Spain. It's vastness, grandeur. deep
poetic feeling, and marvellous reality, in
which the finty stone glows with radiant
life, are, believe, beyond comparison with
art to be found elsewhere in Europe. In the
center of the Capills Mayor or chief chapel
rises great altar of jasper and marble.
Upon this ats the ef6gy Of St. James, habi-
ted in q pilgrims esclavina or long cloak of
silver and gold, glittering with rubies, sap.
phires, emeralds and diamonds. Near is an.
other efigy of the saint with an aureola of
rubies and emeralds, and at his feet the
statues of four kneeling kings. Again st.
James is represented at the battle of Clavigo
staying infidels, who are falling about him In
hundreds. Four great columns rise near
these efdgies. Upon each is seated the Gg-
ure Of an angel. These four angels support
the tomb itself high In air, and an immense
star Of blazing gold is Suspended above the
tomb. Not 30 very long ago, ono Thousand
lamps. burning incense, hung before this
shrine. Behind the great altar marble steps
permit pilgrims to ascend for the fin del
roma0e or last act of pilgrimage, which
consists Of kissing the hem of the sacred
esclavtna enfoldin9 the efigy Of the saint.
But "a enhancing as were the treasures of
this most rare and wonderful ecclesiastical
pile of northwestern Spain, I was impatient
to reach the interior. Securing the company
Of band of Maratagos, on their way with q
drove of pack mules from Santiago to Astor-
ga, in the province of Leon, I passed three
days and two nights upon the mountain
roads with my strange fellows, muleteers,
| who are descended from the Moors and still
wear long tasssls to their caps, and brseches
| as wide and corpulent with cloth "a Scotch
highlander's kilt; remained night at an
| cient Astorga, the Asturica Augusta of PHI
| ny, where the old Roman walls still exist In
| great massiveness and strength, linked here
and there by gigantic cubos; and then set
out afoot and alone down the valley Of the
| Orbigo towards the olden capital OF Spain,
quaint and ruinous Valladolid. This impa
tience brought me a singular adventure, H.
| Illustrative Of the return of bread cast upor
the waters. At Villapando two roads, thu
northern via Medina, the southern by th'
way Of La Mota, lead to Valladolid. Th'
latter, dreary and unfrequented, breaks int
numerous mountain foot paths In the south
i ern spurs Of the Montes do Torezos. Brief