, 1890-10-23

Sweetheart, this is a creed OF mine,
Wrought In couplet here entire
Love at last is the light divine,
Far and pure as the gray star-shine.
BoNNETS AND DRESSES.
What 10 Appropriate for Mid-Autumn
Wear.
New York Correspondence Inter Ocean.
The pretty capote of the day is
one which declares the taste of n
lady In every fold and outline. 1t
suits the head and shapely features
which wear II. Let the aquiline
woman beware of essaying it, how
ever, unless she is willing that her
most prominent features should soar
In parrot-like relief. The bonnet is
better for her, as the trimming is
massed outside the line of the crown
and projects almost Us much as the
tip Of the nose itself.
In choosing hat or bonnet for q
woman with prominent features
hold ruler straight against the tip
Of the nose and have the brim or
trimming come at least as far for
word. This trimming should be
light-feathers, gauze or lace-with
simple effective knot of velvet
loops with pleating of muslin dc
sole or thin Grape each side. The
feather border laid in tufts also sets
out from the head and makes 1t look
smaller. For theater q charming
piece has Greek pattern border of
velvet, shaped by wire and buck
ram, laid over crepe lisse fluting, the
bow of feather and tufted "snow"
gauze and black velvet ribbon with
''snow" aigrette being of that sim
Pile, inimitable elegance which en-
chants the masculine mind and dis
tracts the feminine.
Only a small hat or toque should
ever be worn with n veil, and it
should be wrapped In Eastern FASH
ion twice across the face, over the
brow and again over the cheeks,
leaving the eyes uncovered, for
wearing veil dulls and weakens
them, not only by obscuring vision
and strainihg the optic nerve slight
" but surely, but by the vapor OF
the breath, inhaled over and over,
which is bad for the wearer and her
eyes.
Furs and fans are carried together
in luxurious readiness for extremes
in heated gallery or chilly street.
And mark the coquettlsh fastening
of the collar of the cloak by a strap
at the back of the neck.
Many of the winter styles are sug-
gestions from the fifteenth century
dress, revived by the Tudor exhibit
ton, which was the delight of the
London world last season. Verita-
BILE state dresses were unearthed
from wardrobe rooms and Golfers;
gloves tarnished and sewn with
pearls; corsets of woven metal,
studded with carbupcle. turquois.
garnet and seed pearls; bodices stiff
with embroidery in gold thread and
furred; moth-eaten mantels which
had stirred with the unrest of the
proudest, uneasiest hearts in the
world.
Not only the Maries and Eliza
beths, of whom history is full, sent
their last finery to the exhibition,
but those unfortunate Maries,
Annes and Isabellas, whose destiny
was 30 high and 80 unhappy in that
they were hardly less account liv-
ing than they seem TO be dead
women without force, daring or
worth enough to win what was
theirs by desire and right, who
coveted, envied, moped, and left Of
themselves nothing but their ,pedi.
gree and their petticoats. Well,
these last were oftcn n graceful enough
to be remembered and admired. But
copied-the royal wine sack In rab-
bits fur, and the gold thread which
has kept its gleam for centuries In
the Dutch metal which will tarnish
in six weeks wear, and the tur-
quoises in blue elluloid--dcfend us
from such aflronts to taste.
They flourish at the merchants
openings, where one may buy cor
selet embroidered by machinery in
"purples" and fiourishes of green
gold; red gold, and yellow to delight
the dressy heart of Anne Of Clewes,
aud very much In the fashion of her
day, for price not beyond the
wages of good school teacher.
The cheap velvet sleeves, wrought
In attempt to mimic Venetian rich
ness from shoulder to waist, hang
on the show line above the counters
marked only $3.50 the pair. Oh,
for sumptuary laws again, or rather
that women would DO laws unto
themselves, for then, and then only,
shall we see noble and en-
during fashions the sunptuous de-
nAanding the finest, richest produc-
tions of the loom to carry out its
royal ideas the middle class, in the
sweet gravity of stuffs woven to
last, enhanced by the handlwork of
the weavers, of design worthy to
last, and common folk In clean,
bright, cherry stuff that would
cleanse year after year like new and
be worth the dollars put into them.
The colors for the autumn include
number of shadowy browns, which
will be useful, notably the richly
soft tan shade called Hindoo, after
the hue of native bodies. This Is
combined with pale Egyptian
greens, like verdigris; cocoa, walnut,
camel and amber shades describe
themselves. The reds are delightful,
Moorish red, Indian red, Boulangcr,
the clear, carnation scarlet and a
rich cherry red, long In disuse.
Torquoise blue Is the trimming