Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1890-04-04
TWO YANKEES ABROAD.
SECOND PART.--PALBSTINE.
TENTINq IN NAZARETH


spring women come from great distance
with donkeys to fetch jars Of water the,
carry, also, a big jar on their heads won
en- are poor beasts Of burden in this Hol,
Land. A young rider pastures his horse il
the wheat fields | send him word that i
is not right he answers that it does no
matter, that the wheat is not ripe law o
the stranger of course it would be foil,
to argue with him, but | am glad when h,
disappears my American soul rebel
against any form Of oppression. Here ant
there villages occupy hillocks, spurs o
Mount Gilboa.
In two hours we reach Jezreel, miser
able village beautifully located on higl
hill commanding the whole plain, which ex
tends from the Mediterranean Sea to tn,
Jordan, and is, or was, the most fertile par
of Palestine Recollections crowd Ahab
Jezebel, Elijah. On one side, Gilboa, witt
Saul and Jonathan on the other the hill OF
which were the Philistines. Poor mother
is 50 i'll that | order Selm to proceed will
her directly to the lunch resting place
while Ahbed leads me to the fountain where
the 300 men Of Gideon Tapped water be
fore defeating the Mldianites Today Ahbed
is on a horse, and makes it 20 at full gallon
across the fields. | have no trouble in fol
lowing him. We find magnificent series
Of springs at the northeast foot of Gilboa
they form brook along which herds re
fresh themselves, while the shepherds battle
and play in a grotto We return by the
spring which supplies Jezreel, cross the
plain to the foot of little Mount Hermon,
hence to Snlem, ancient Sunem, where
Elisha was Hospitality received and brought
buck a child to life Here, under lemon
trees, with rug over bare ground, we
lunch and try to be jolly. If you could see
us in this our luxury, pleasure hour, how
my readers would laugh. Mother is as red
a. "a poppy, pater looks like a cooked lob
ster: and the guide book extols the maidens
coming TO the fountain. ! wish you could
see these maidens, their rags and their
filth here and there young face, but sell
dom, and if we look at her, Immediately
ltl manu- u tAAEuAfN lbl bhNh6llHu dlll
so tired of so called historical spots that
do not 90 to see Elisha's house the village
has been destroyed probably a hundred
times since he lived
1t is hot, hot but on we must go Mother,
Selim, palanquin, donkey will 90 directly
to Nazareth while | visit Main on the
mountain slope. Here Jesus resuscitated
the widows son. Today it is a miserable
- = e Ia,
places whose names are familiar to us, SO
decline to 20 to Endor, an hour further,
where Saul went TO consult the witch.
could see only hole in the mountain of
such | have seen thousands. At Main a
little modern Romish church has been built
recently it is closed, also the priest house;
no loss. Below the village is a spring of
good water, not cool. For over an hour,
under a broiling sun, we ride on, and | am
glad when we reach the foot of the hills on
which lies Nazareth We strike a newly
made road, fit for a carriage. 1t is one of
the many Turkish follies. When a prince
visits the land, presto they order this or that
road to be made they build mile or two,
then stop when the next prince comes
they will do little more in the mean
while the first part will have become again
bride path, with narrow passage worn
by the animals feet.
For thirty minutes we climb the good and
bad road, then Nazareth is before us in full,
in a hollow, surrounded entirely by hills
were not the roofs fiat, the houses square,
one could imagine himself in some New
Hampshire mountain district. A short de-
scent, outside the city, brings us to our
camp, which our patient has reached fifteen
minutes before The old gentleman admits
that he is tired out that he will be glad tC
rest all day to morrow. He sips glass of
lemonade, accepts cup of tea, and is SC
used up that dinner has no attractions for
him.
ApW Sunday, rest domestic du
ties, washing of dirty linen rehearsal OF
our lady's dangers she has heard the bark
ing of foxes, has found tarantula her
companion is a wretch who refuses 10 be
lieve without vast amount of allowance.
We are in full view of Nazareth which oc-
cupies the slope of the hill The Professor
starts on foot with an old guide to ''do" the
city.
/. The Greek church, built over the
spring which supplies the Virgins fountain;
from hole, little silver bucket is dipped
in the spring the water is good and not
cool The church contains the grotto in
which Mary lived when the angel visited
her; the window by which he came is there,
the spot where she stood is there the
church is full of old sculptures, old paint
ings, old books which would be worth their
weight in gold, if in the United States.
, The synagogue in which Jesus taught,
today Romish Greek church.
3. The Latin church. in which is also the
grotto inhabited by Mary when the angel
came to her here "reibum caro- fdctllm
est" (the word became the flesh) is inscribed
ON the rock here, also, is the window
through which the angel came column
broken by the Musims, whose upper half
rested suspended lit is firmly secured in the
ceiling). The house of Mary and Joseph is
now in Italy, where angels carried it, Notre
Dame de Lorette. Behind the grotto is Jo
seph's chapel, behind this is the Virgins
kitchen The monk who shows all those
holy places has kept me waiting ten min
utes while arranging candles ON Gabriel's
altar. l can witness his economy. Two
short candles are glued-melted- together
to form long one. The exact length is
quite important and required much time
and care. The monk leads me to the Mus,
lin quarter, where, under heavy lock and
iron doors, stands a chapel over
4. The workshop of Joseph. "IUis sub
missuS e,Ut'-He was obedient to them
Paintings abound in which Joseph and Mary
richly dressed, listen with admiration tc
the young Jesus, who has an aureole around
his head. The shop has been repaired and
renewed lately.
:. Through many small, steep, hot
streets, ! am led TO Mensa Christi, a big
rock almost fat which Jesus used as a ia
ble for himself and the twelve apostles
The rock is there, certainly, and did exist
before the legend was created. l doubt il
Christ ever sat round this table with his dis
ciples. They squatted on the ground, East
ern fashion, aud ate bread and raw onions
when they had them. In Jesus's time Naz
areth was a small, Insignificant place the
people lived mostly in the grottos of the
limestone hills, and here He lived for
thirty years, and during that time
we know but one incident of his life-when
he went to Jerusalem.
My old guide leads me to the view.
find he is a willy old codger in ten minutes
we are at a point which is not the view
this one is thirty minutes higher, and
climb slowly, hotly, higher and higher,
stopping to look at the panorama. Finally
across lentils and wheat fields, reach the
summit of the hill above Nazareth aud 1T
pays to toll up TO the summit | am sur
rounded with hills towards the west, the
Sea, the downs Carmel projecting into the
water near it AGRA towards the north,
Hermon, seen through a heavy haze as a
dim shadow towards the east, what was
Cana, the Jordan hills beyond the Gilead
hills southwark Mount Thabor, on which
the TRANSPORTATION is said TO have taken
place, but did not-at the foot of which
Kleber aud Bonaparte fought the Turks
beyond the road by which we have come
are the hills of Samaria and Judma a
heavy haze obscures the sight, imagine as
much as l see. l have resisted my guides