Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1890-05-29
NEW PoRK Fashions.

range for choice in commencement
dreBshs and notable changes III making
require special comment. Tie Harpiloe
dress or academic gown, as it IS aiGo
called, ia the most remarkable innovation
on old ideas and as the name would im-
ply, ia reproduction of the gRrb peeu-
liar to choristets, being worn oyer full, |
pIaiu skirt. This favorite trimming 10 |
Greek kay bordering in guilt or silk and /
tho same e rniture Is used with particular
appropriateness in dresses parteklng
moro or less of classic outlines. Given
tile foregoing, and the Empire dress is
aimost on understood thing since Ito
simple contour falls in with prevalent
thought and IL ii moreover the gown best
adapted to youthful figures. Belts End
assh ss are important accessories end here
IS in costumes, buckles are employed to
an extraordinary extent. They were
never 30 fashionable and come 10 sizes
ranging from eight to two inches and
show every manner Of device In gilt,
steel enausl or rhinestone to say nothing
OF precious metal when 1t can be afforded.
Imitation Of the men is not confined to
academic gowns.
wAIsTooATH -@.
are markedly mAnlike, and are put ON In
an altogether manly way, over shirt
front to which standing linen collar
and tie give completion. A iaunty little
| Jacket is the proper outside garment,
| and, in view OF probable run on waist
coats, there ia q remarkable variety in
Jackets which hitherto Of CLOTH in black
OF stylish shades of tan, castor, fawn or
swede, are now Brought out in white
with black facings and large gilt buttons.
Of in pale colors, such Rs delicate green,
blue or terra Gotta, with appropriate con-
trnBts ia garnitura. Brocsde in small
designs or pique, either white or colored,
ave the msterials selected for wGistcoatR.
As time GOES OH, the prominence Of drap-
ing about the corsGge becomes more ap-
parent. A delightful liberty has Ut sen
and entirely without rule or regard to
precedent, each dressmaaer may consult
her own fancy in the winding of material
about the form Fastenings are more
than ever obscure, and even TO a psac-
tised eye it may become en- gmatical as tc
how the waist OF dress ia put on or off.
AS may be imagined, dress buttons are
relegated to oosourity, the few which
, appear icing inconspicuous.
GLOVES SHOES.
Gloves are in tan or grey or occasion
I ally match costumes and with the open
! ing season, q supply Of silk aud tate.a IL
the same colorB are shown. LattgTB from
Paris say that two button gloves arr
being worn but OF present on this side
four buttons are usual for street o.
D morning wear. Shoes are in ton or grs,
to match gloves aud often Of undTesset
{: kid, but as many persons will not eivp
y these STYLES, there arc varieties in blAol
y with adjournment of buckles or beacs
/ Sharp pointed toes p-ueuce as much dis
!, comfort as ever, although of course theI
h are broader shapes with lower heels TO
- those who cannot or will not wear sucl
d narrow shapes. In answer to inquiry o
g the subject OF q reliable dressing, tho re
u ply is strongly in favor Of Buttons Rave
n Gloss because the finish 1t gives is sol
i and natural while other dressings crao
4. the leather and render 1t hard. Som
OF dealers from interested motives, may
ie inclined to substitute other dresa ngi
y but the prsseryative qualities OF Rave
- Gloss should recommend it to all thos
y vino have a just regard to the durabilit
n- of their foot wear.
o. NOTES AND ANSWERS.
10 Some idea may be formed of ii
~ variety in handkerchiefs by descriptio
"a of q group Of five lately seen on fast
I'd ionabie counter. The first was OF fiji
o. linen lawn with fancy drawn work he
by with floral embroidery in white and gol
colored silk foss the second was Of piI
lawn with white embroidered edge; Il
third was all white with broad hem an
a bes.rewn with embroidered barrette
large sprays on the hem giving compl
no ton; She fourth was OF heliotrope 81
lth null finished with applique silk en.brc
ell derry in pattern of fern leaves and vi
M lets; the fifth of white China silk wi
e. e., crimscp elk hem and adorned by snC
nd scene in etching.
AS A dress recently made for Mrs. VIII
to ney ia OF tan cloth with embroider
u.s. border in blue and tan silk and ailv
OF cord united with dark blue velvet. Clo
~. composes the back, full vest, puts
~ ~ sleeves and panels on the front of {
ant skirt, the velvet forming the toundatit
vas skirt, jacket fronts, yoke, colle-, q
10 lower portion of the sleeves. The jacl
de- fronts, woke and cuffs are embrolder
led with silver cord. Hat OF chip to mat
70 trimmed with blue and silver ribbon q
" " blue ostrich tips.
ia 3 MRS. X" VaDdyke embYOideriss 1
ms exceedingly fashionable and in 60
would be eminantly suitable tor an Int
silk. They are also largely used on gin
~. hams and satinas and in either case N
yOr he combins6 with velvet ribbon. TX
ing embroidery is united with silk rihbon
aEt India silk aid il can be added that VIII
~, bows are worn, silk ribbon is prefsra
IN. 10 velvet, because the latter is au5
law twist iato strings and therefore is b
sd, employed in bands or pansls. L:
jail nounees on silk are stylish and the DIR
oks lately worn by the Duchess of MI
bV borough, showed q narrow trimm
5 - around the skirt of point d'esPrit in
IA inevitable Vandyke points.
Miss r." Cloth capes are rage a
really tho principal dependence VIII
,rs. some prctection is required, since VIZ
md. are chiefly Of lace and ribbon, viii
ling though very pretty, do not afford warm
ors: Besides they are quite expensive. Cap
Or however, are far better adapted to 81
nj. der figures than the woll developed /
fuse the latter class find it difficult this sea
opu- to obtain something suitable where p
amd poses OF utility are the consideration.
,ort- Unique ELECTS in millinery are brou
opor about by crowns of much darker
=. heavier material than the brims.
and is especially true Of shade hats whel
The stylish example shows crown OF bl
ntef Milan with tlaring brim of very I
rs. fancy braid in yellow. A high bow
black net is placed on tue crown and
,or. brim IL gasnitured b. half spra.
nroe bright pink roses and green foliage,
'ries other side displaying trimming of
re- rose ribbon and double faced velvet
asa bon in darker shade of the same co
rs at -
nrv -