New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-04-06
FASHIONS OF THE HOUR.
WHAT WOMEN ARE WEARING.

Tho importation Of fine French underwear
shows no startling departure from old-tme rules Of
cut and fabric. 4 fine quality Of French nainSOOk
which will endure repeated washing and bleaching
In the dew and Is preferred to any other material
although few garments always shown in linen
for ladies who have never become accustomed to any
other material. For elaborate wear there dainty
garments Of linen lawn hemstitchcd with the needle
and trimmed with Vacncienncs lace. Refined women
in private life have never adopted the stage fashion
of wearing complete outfit of underwear made ~
white or coiorcd ,urah or India "washT silk. These
materials though washable. unfit Tor 81 "A use,
bccaI,c they cannot be sun-dricd in the fresh open
air without losing color. Even white >urah turns an
unpleasant muddy yellow. The superiority OF even
canbric handkerchief To silk one need not be dwet
upon where any ha, made practical use OF b"ti'
The silk undcrcarment worn by most refined clty
women j. an undervcst Of silk webbing. Ihls Sar-
mcmt must be made Of the purcst thread OF SILK IN
order - be A wholesome substitute for wool lhcrc
las been no method ever discovered which Will prevent
,llu SPIRAL il,rcs %. wool from drawing up IN aundrng.
VIE, ;lo most ,crupulOu, care such garments are
Shrnak up unfit for wear LONG before they are worn
ont. silk undcrvcsts OF the best quality are an cA-
pcnsivc item at first but Will Outst several sets OF
wool underwear and in tho end pay for themselves.
The pure white silk webbing turns creamy. but not
10 the dngy color of white wash silk and is soft and
dainty lonS A. II lasts.
made in flowing sacquc shape with wide turned down
collars edge. with lace or embroidery often In three
inch width which extends down the front In vidc
fr The fullnc,, OF the front Of the gown Is held IN
at tho collar by cluster Oh me
tucks or shrrings. and at the back by
A square Of tuchs varying from an clshth
to u quarter Of an inch in width. stl other gowns
mad with fun fronts striped 4" the waist with IN
.crtions of twoinch Nalcncicnncs lace. with open
patterns Of cnfroiicry The sleeve. in French
SHAPE j. high or the shoulder and Is sometime;
-triurd with lcngthvl~c insertion, of lace or en-
brodcry half way down from the shoulder. with
the exception Of the fnllnc>s. that is added to
the sleeve At the top. and the low. wide collar which
ha~ almost superseded the hieh band of lat season,
there Is little change IN cut. The gown Is les often
opened AZ the SIDE than last season
Dotted and -pre-ci cambria gowns. for travelling
or use In the room while dressing are again shown
and are the only approach to colorcd undcrgirn'it
~ Do tolerated. alw;}, excepting The -k or alpaca
skirt. for travelling and for rainy weather. which are
a .crvccabc and sensible addition to any ladys ward
robe.
The greatest simplicity prevails IN the cut Of all
Trourh unicrgarmcni-. my attempt at elaboration
# trimming or ,ui b. considered in the very worst
taste Chcm-c- are low and sleeveless. with -
.implr band around the neck; they are dairtily
trimmed with q deep FIJI Of Lace or lace and in-rr
ton meeting full front finished with lace and in'cr
ton Ia the waist Ire. The fall Of lace. AZ least three
inch., WIDE around a simple round sacqur neck -
considered the newest fashion II j, pretty idea 10
have a drawing ,trng Of 40. | ribbon TO arrange
these garment, comfortably around the neck.
There are a great many excellent makers Of cor
sets. ~ a ruie American women wear an extremely
hl.h ,or-.t which j. neither wholesome nor hand
-o.u~ AID ha- given peopi" who l'cturc ON dr. re-
form some cau-c for what were othcra-c unnecessary
=. . Of
carriage and i.uv, u.nf wcag q Very short corset
about the width 81 rdln- corset. Tai, }, lifted q"
the .nn. with ~" -riic-f care. such corset costs
from =, upward. l.t 4 sell covered and worn with
d.intg care u Viii last year. when economic
women have ~ cc,nod to be- u,.i another year with
60. gown for ordinary occasions. No corset 'ai
lc washed and rcialu d., shape properly fer Use With
fffI.. df,- c.. rect covers usually made
loss DID the neck without slcc,c.. Fine unin,ooh cor
linen arc the fivoritc materials, with trimmings 81
CHM, iieo or fine uccilcNora. The newest shapes
are not fitted to the figure with seams. bat held III
I'd tie waist with clusters II tucks aud belt ana
,hsr.ne string
The ncw matinee, are made 81 crepe DC Chine aud
SIX and wool -ufAh, lu delicate -lt blue. pale Parma
,iol.f roe and oticr delicate 'olor'. Tho" DO tea
gown object ar. SHOWN 300 -gsah fitted DO ~ the Ia Is
D., q cluster # stirring and drawn n graceful loose
effect d..-,nalh ..r,.. the waist t. TIE left II is
Trimmed Wlfu illl iilllr ~ Niifii' '''' "'
ar, extended down tine lcft side Of 'hc gown. when'
~ open, 10 the bottom. Tae sleeve is
,ut l orc ue,c aii gathered 100 fall elect tine "i'ih
II tlc scam on ih" inside II fhc sim. na'Ins rii'
"a nm -iccvc admirtni, adapted To- soft materials
The n'N matinee jackets Il 'nlDr'd 'trpco I" h' worn
with black cor c0lor,d .iih ,hiri, are Don fall 'f'hh
cic.t lifted ~ ihc n.ur. merely Dos ple,t, ~ the
lack. With npNlUs -lc.v'. and trimming 81 creamy
oriental nec. some charming Jackets has" flowing
-paff.h Jacket fronts. which display vest oi p"
ur nn. nc,alcWoih. and d, novlns .l"ovc with under
sleeves.
There WI. never moro freedom shown in Tie ar
,,n.,.fn,n, OF M, hair than to-day. Wore attention
/. pad 4, the contour II the head ana ic Face "h'
Their, b. c.. ANXIETY 20 copy a set 'N L.. Inc TWO
Z, lc. most prevalent for everyday wear arr 'hc i"N'
..,r, fnl coil Of hraid,. which covers TN back OF tue
bead from tine crown 10 the nap Of the n''"' ana
III, I'm. Fr.li,h ,haiclaiuc Of braid which hai-'
las. a, ,he hack Of the mech. The front hair j. gen
Grail, dr.,.cd in % very -lhm. hshi BAN curved "p
lftle 4, .h,. id., and curl B, -omrnr> ''rrFN'N
.rr.,,.od n the centre. where the face VIII "'" H.
In In, cvcnur the mif !, worn very hi'h h 'n'
looms In French .tylc-. Children haif Is 'nt 1T
from, I'm slight short bang and ARRANGED 10 fall well
over tho clf-. Flowing hair j. never 'rlhPco p"'
.in,plv cr.lcd up slight, AT "a" ends.
There i. no special change IN ,ho~. The 10" h'eled
ro,c piccad!l, toe j, the favoriic walking ~h"" and
,.,,ntl, ,o>cd entirely around with patent leather
low noe with 4 black cloth gacr. oi one t. match
the tailor gown. viii be worn a. loon az the summer
season opens.
,Iip,cr, are exceedingly pretty with moderately low
heel and pointed toes for ordinary H'"''"' ana
,,.l heels for elaborate. Those IN bld'h suede
lid with rows II narrow ribbon stitched across tho
,,n are pnpnIar brcaec they dccfca-" the apparent
q. nr Of th. foot TIM silver or Fom n"'h' rests
nm the in.icp There arc many attractive slippers Of
red morocco for morning wear.
Thanks are ,,ue 10 j. e. Dcyins. william Jay darker
and j. - j. slater.
THE MISSIONARY MUSE.