New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-16

Pinard and DelmonicO have revolutionized the
art OF dining In the days Of Shakespeare good
digestion probably waited on appetite Dining
was matter-of- fact business, and dinners were
so lacking in variety that an appetite was neces-
sity. In these days of Pinard and Demomco an
appetite is supeniuty.
Saws Pinard: The climax Of all entertain
mentS is the dinner.
So thoroughly has lie convinced Newly orkers
of his ability 10 ARRANGE climates that they have
gone over 20 him in a body.
sEight or nine years ago." he said TO the
writer. lit was the ambition Of every host ana
hostess 70 entertain their guests wl'h dinner Oh
their own designing, prepared by their own cheIs'
cooked in their own kitchens and served by thelr
own walters They wanted 10 DO everything
themselves. They spent days ana highIs oi
agony in arranging surprises lot tnclr Hehub'
each family striving TO eclipse every other III the
style and variety Of the dishes prepared But
all that has changed. The people now want moth
ing TO do with arranging dinners 1hey leave
it all 10 the caterer
1T must be blessed relief TO housekeepers.
But asked the writer, tell me something about
the preparation of a dinner"
HOW A DINNER is PREPARED.
There isn't much TO tell. When a man wants
TO give dinner he first decides on the number
of his guests. / then obtain a general idea Of
the style Of entertainment he wants 10 give, and
arrange a menu accordingly. This is submitted
TO him for approval, and if satisfactory, the
preparation is proceeded with. You will under
stand that must keep myself well informed con
serning the food in the markets at all seasons Of
the wear. The difficulty in doing this was one
of the chief obstacles in the path Of the host
who used 10 arrange his own dinners As n rule.
he didn't know the markets at all; consequently.
many deicacies which he might have had on his
table were overlooked Nothing is Of greater impOr.
4ancc than a thorough knowledge Of the markets
Resides that, ! must know 10 certain extent
the tastes Of the people for whom l am 10 pre-
mare dinner For the last twenty years I have
made careful study OF the tastes Of various
communities, and have found IL extremely advan-
tageous You would be surprised at the differ
ence that exists in the tastes OF people Of differ
ent cities For instance. dinner that would
delight New-Yorkers would probably be failure ir
Brooklyn; a good Brooklyn dinner might not be
liked in Newark, and a Newark dinner would
be a disappointment in Providence / can al
most tell what man likes by looking at him
After fve-minutes' talk l know his tastes as
well as | know my own.
well, having decided what the dinner shall
consist of, / proceed 20 determine the quantity
Of each course to be served. That, rs you may
Judge, is a very delicate problem. We want 70
be generous yet not prodigal. II we prepare too
much Of certain dish, more than the guests
care TO cat why, that Is just so much wasted
On the other hand, il would never do to have
TOO little 10 go round. That would seem mig
cardly. 1t is always my aim 10 hit 1t just
right. and l never leave the determining OF guam
titles 70 my chefs. try " know lust how much