Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-05-31

thetic beauty. They seem to exist as mere
/ " passive beings in hateful present, dole
fully regarding the dead glories of a van
| ished past. In the second-class are chiefly the
| Drusque, strapplng, square bodied wives and
| daughters OF the small dealers relic shownen
and petty politicians of modern Venice. They
gard the social revolution which has put them
at the front of the decayed aristocracy as glad
| some, heaven sent dispenSaticn; and mimic the
last year s Paris and London fashions with an
sthuence and enthusiasm worthy or their extra
ordinary vigor and assurance. The third class
| IS OF course the lowIy- Its women are bare
headed, bare-legged bare breasted creatures
with pudgy little faces, tiny noses and eyes.
tiny mouths with puckered. protruding
1 lips, neckS with q tendency to goitre,
and with no more perfection OF symmetry
about their bunchy, squaw-like forms than you
will find in the humpy, hesd-protruding peasant
woman from Bulgaria and lower Hungary who
are weekly landed at Castle Garden in New
York. These glory in immense fat, crescent
shaped ear rings, metal bracelets upon arms and
ankles, huge strings of gaudy Venetian beads,
garlic and BABIES. This is not a pleasant pic
ture, but it is true one All these faces have
more or less of plaintive look about the eyes
and drawn pathetic expression about the mouth.
This, the subtle essence Of so universal poetic
adulation, is ascribed by the more realistic ply
sicians OF Venice to catarrh- have their word
for it that it is an universal Ailment in water
logged Venice.
The only specimen OF the tramp species have
seen IN all Italy, though myself unblushing
tramp and likely to meet the brotherhood if it
existed here, was on the way from Campl We
teres to PotenIa. We met at a wayside shrine.
After succeeding in convincing him that there
a natural affinity existing between us,
shared the contents of my lunch-wallet with
him. then made him partially understand the
Iuxuriousness, versatility and numerousness OF
the American tramp, and, on our way into the
old earthqu ake-shaken city. he explained with
the excellent analysis and unerrlng logic
with which all tTamps dIRcuss So
cialogy, why kind were quite IN
known in italy, The reasons he gave were,
brio dy hat he uhO bad no n
who preferred not to engage in toll, in his coun-
try from choice and custom instantly became 3
beggar or bandit. He could adopt neither pro-
fession, because bandit required certain
amount of bravery and involved danger. Being
successful beggar made malformaton, or IN
pleasant distortion and posing, necessary. An
other important reason for the non existence OF
tramps he thought, was certain sharp spur OF
necessity which goaded men of desuetude to at
such lands as Italy sunshine and sleep were q
good part of food ITSELF little actual nourish-
waste from exertion; the lazaroni could
sleep out Iof doors nearly all the
year round; wine was cheaper than good water
practically no clothing was required; and Alto
gether, sentimental tourists provided hand
somely for all. For himself, he had soul
above begging, below the band it'll, and SO
loved all his adored Italy that he aspired to know
it from the true travellers standpoint. To fur
Their this aspiration he repaired pedal lndura-
tions by day and improvised pastoral eplcs ~
night, science and posey, as it were, wandering
hand in hand through the sunny ways OF Italy.
-.
Millions of men and women reading Millions
lines,
'Thick as autumnaI leaves that strew the brooks
In Vallombrosa. where tn Etrurian shades
High overarch'd embower-''
have seen the vision that came in swift longing
to him to dwell among the Franciscan monks In
the monastery near the top of the mountain
above Florence and yearned, he yearned,
for the cool depths of its restful shade 1t is the
one place in all Italy, save beautiful Palermo,
4frk Fr,lf Ar1nN
ney is eighteen miles from Florence, up the
lovely valley of the Arno, where are uncovered
by the italian aristocracy and nooilty. A
broad carriage road leads all the way
Hating at the little village of Tosi, from W
one formerly conveyed to the DlOt
retreat by sledge drawn by oxen. an hol
passed at refreshments and in enchanting
of the cities, valleys, plains and rivers bel
when the journey ls resumed up the PratomaE
through groves of the most magnl
cent beech and chestnut trees in the world. IL
songs of birds. the Eolian musie OF tores,-
breeZes, and endless melodies Of falling waters,
so bewitch one all the way from TosiS
that suddenly and without warning
s SGn eerie. It comprises SnS but few acres
of level meadow through which runs long av-f
enue Of majestic trees, and at the end OF TINS
ings, more famous from three lines by Milton,
than any other similar spot in the world. The
order OF Vallombrosans, founded IN the early
part of the Eleventh century by Gualberto OF
Elorence-who, prevented by pious impulse
from staying the murderer of his brother. though
at his mercy, in thankfulness to God became
religious devotee, and eventually the founder
of great order-became one of the richest and
most powerful in Italy; and this one old monas-
terry held the chief treasure. For this order Cl-
ambue painted his priceless Madonna; Peru
gino, his marvellous Assumption. But the
French revolution almost ruined the order
When Napoleon's council debated whether they
should spare the Vallombrosans, because they
kept the wolves thinned in the mountains, it
was asked, shall we have monks wolves2''
w Victor
uel in 1860. at the italian disestablishment, COM
pleted their extinction here. The place is now
used as a government agricultural school, with
corps of resident professors; and just above the
is an observatory, one OF the Italian
signal and weather stations Of to-day. A glo-
rious torrent leaps past the edge OF the meadow;
the forest In which the sweet old nest is en-
beded were nearly all set out by the monks; over
40. GOO beech trees are standing, all of which
were planted by these vigorous refuses; and
though Vallombrosa is 5000 feet above the
sea, the mountain behind rises 1000
grand a pine forest eyes ever be-
held. Glorious indeed are all the surroundings
and memories of this little upland valley. but
from the top of Pratomagno the most ravishingly
beautiful view in all Italy is presented. What
wondrous associations are coniured in contem-
plation of the fair, far Casentino valley with its
boundary beyond formed by the lofty Apennes,
where are born the Tiber and Arno Tuscany,
home of the Demonstrating vine and OF far
women, stretches sunnily to the westward The
majestic Duomo Rlitters down there in the CEN
ter of the purple, checkered valley where Flo
renee stands. And far, faint and maglcally seen
through the passes OF the uttermost peaks of
Carrara. shines thread Of sapphire where sweep
the sails upon the broad Mediterranean. De-
scend to the old monastry. Dream among its
Wander among its stately groves.
Leave it to go your way and never return. But
all the sadness Italy has left in your heart will
lie there with something akin to forgiving ten
1erness if you have but once drunk the ambrosia
and known the spell
where the Etrurian shades
"High oYerarch'd embower.' -
EDGAR L. wAKEMAS.
..roNs1Drp rrIrTuYes,