Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-02-08

and snug. If It be irock coat il will always
be OF rough goods made up in a very plain way
with plain edge, single stitched. The frock
coat Is silk faced. The scarf worn with the
business suit in the morning il used for the
after-business suit as well. and tan-colored
gloves go with the makeup. The trousers are
dark or medium and il only visit TO the club
or some such place is intended. the top coat Of
the morning Is serviceable; but II drive
through the park is contemplated very light
TOP coat Is the proper thing Under any cir
cumstances a silk hat is worn.
AT THE COMING OF KvENrNo
the fashionable man appears In renewed glory.
His afternoon chat at the club, his drive or his
afternoon visit to the theater, or all three,
having been attended to new obligations are to
be met II may be q dinner, il NAV be an
evening at the opera or it may be both, but at
any rate change OF dress is required and Of
course is made. The evening coat, made in
the latest style, is very Different from
what it used to be. The goods are different.
They are of very fine diagonal This il the
material that Col. Owens Williams has made
the fashion in London, as has been stated
before, and the highest authorities say that il
Is for the time being the correct thing, 90 il
must be so. The coat is cut with heavy roll
to the collar. In other respects the evening
dress is not materially changed. There 10 the
white lawn tie, there are the patent leather
shoes and there is the usual silk hat. after
the style set by London. The crush hat for
any occasion has gone out Of date and
Is thing Of the past at the opera or
! anywhere else. The oracles among the taiiors
say that certain persons are taking liberties
with the style Of evening dress which are de-
cidedly improper. An article Of dress which
has lately struck the fancy of the leaders OF the
fashions for men, particularly the younger
among them, Is known as the Cowes coat, and
IS an extremely comfortable garment This
jacket is dark and has a silk collar rolled to the
first button low down on the breast. 1t has but
two pockets. One is on the left breast outside
and one on the right breast inside of the jacket
IL Is complained sadly by sticklers for the cor
rect thing that some Philistines among those
who affect this jacket go SO far as to wear it to
formal dinners. This is all wrong, they say
The Cowes jacket is intended to be worn at in
formal dinners at home or the club, and should
be no more worn on state occasions than it
should be to business.
FULL EVENING DRESS.
This may seem of little importance to the
ordinary person, but artists say it is matter of
much consequence. OF course the master
piece of the tailoring art is none of those that
have been described. After business, after
the drive, the club, the theater or the formal
dinner comes the crowning event. the special
ball when Ward McAllister $ hosts are gathered
and the picked flowers OF society are displayed
on the broad foo: Of the opera house. Such
an affair Is one calling for greater display than
dinner or even an opening night at the
opera. For the special ball, according to the
high authority mentioned above, full and
complete change OF attire must be made. In
the matter Of the coat and trousers the goods
are OF the rough material now the rage With
this is worn white silk dress vest; white wash
ing linen is also worn. The vest has small
hgures upon 1t. Patent leather dancing pumps
worn with silk stockings with clock work on
the sides, also form part of the outfit. A silk
hat, Of course, tops this outfit With the full
costume nlarf tan foc
kind affected on other occasions is now worn,
Its place has been taken by
THE INVERNESS CAPE,
which for the purpose for which it is used is
held to be far superior to the ordinary over
coat. This cape is made of a heavy blu, or
black rough goods called elysian. 1t is arm
less, and as worn has large flowing wings that
cover the arms, while it is so made that the
chest, lily protected as it is by the open dress
coat; Is well covered and shielded by it. Thus
the Inverness, while being easier to put on and
take of in rush than top coat would be, is
also warmer. OF course, i'll addition to these
various suites of clothes that the fashionable
man OF today wears at business. at the club, on
fashionable occasions, at the theate.. and else
where. there are adjuncts, side issues or any,
thing OF that sort you may choose to call them
II lie is at Tuxedo Park or at any other place in
the country he can have considerable
liberty. He can knock about in sack
suits suits OF rough cheyios of rather a
light color. With this he will wear
dark scarf, and, if he chooses, the old-style
Alpine hat instead of the stiff derby He may
wear the same sack suits i'll travelling Again,
the man OF fashion need not change his foot
gear more than three times. 10 business he
may wear CATERS, vanished usually by his own
man. He may wear the same in the afternoon.
With evening dress the patent feathers come
and for the ball he wears patent leather
pumps. 1t is pretty much the same with the
top coat. The top coat worn during the day
Will do for anything save for driving and for
evening wear. So with an Inverness cape and
two top coats the man Of fashion can struggle
along very well, just he can with three hats
and three pairs of shoes. OF course most Of
them do not travel on so narrow limit, but
they could If 1t were necessary.
THE COST.
The hunting suits and polo suits tina. many
OF them are obliged to keep on hand are not
mentioned here, for they really do not figure
in the everyday life OF the average man of
fashion. Nor are the styles of iewelry referred
to- for the reason that while it is an uuyritten
rule that the well-dressed men shall wear not
too much jewelry there seems to be no cast
iron law i'll the matter, as there are in some
other things Figuring on the lines laid down
aboye-and they strike fair average Of the
ontfit of the ordinary man of fashion-it was
not hard to estimate what it costs to dress
really well just at this time. The figures fur
nished by the authority before mentioned put
it something like this:
Morning business suit. ............S 75
.horHiiB WeQuli6 sui. Observation-Disclosures. IS
Full dress suit (for BALD ........ 100
Afternoon suit (for the street, ..... 80
Top coat (for the stree) ................ IS
Top coat (for driving) .......... IS
Dinner JACKET or Cowes coat. .............. IS