The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1890-10-02
FASHIONS FOR THE FAIR.
Olive Harper Essays to Tell how
Pretty the Gowns Are.
Correspondence Of the Press.

New YORK, Sept. 30.-Just how pretty
the new fall costumes areT wish to show
today, calling particular attention at the
same time to the fact that they are
marked by extreme simplicity as COM
pared with those of couple of years since.
There is an almost entire absence of
drapery, just three or four plaits carried
high on the back of the hips and left to
fall loose, which gives a graceful and
easy finish to the front of the skirt.
Plaid woolens and popelines, as well
as silks and velvets, are very popular,
and really every third dress is of some
sort Of plaid, either entire or made in
combination with velutina, velvet or
surah, or sometimes faille One of the
dresses represented in the first picture is
of pale blue and pink plaid over gray,
and the sleeves, plastron front and I'M
derslirt are of Mordore velutina. The
hat to go with this is of plum colored
plush, with plumes shade lighter
The other walking gown is of soft
twilled plaid in diagonal stripes of fawn
and tan, with scarlet lines forming the
plaid. The waist of this is plain and has
sleeves of fawn colored velvet. A dainty
little Carrick cape in fawn beaver cloth
is simply stitched two or three times
round for trimming. With this is worn
hat of green felt, with moss green
plumes and brick red ribbon.
In the second cut the lady on the left
has dress for home or street wear in
terra Gotta camel's hair prettily braided
in darker brown. The waist has simu-
lated vest faced with Mordore velvet and
has cuffs and collar of the same. The
style in which it is made can be easily
understood.
Her pretty companion has girlish
and elegant gown of gray cashmere, or
if preferred it can be of dead fine Henri
eta or faille. In the first case it is
braided, in the second it has triangular
piece of velvet cisele set in.
The pretty Spanish jacket and sleeves
are of myrtle green velvet. For the
street cunning little toque of green
and gray is worn. Of course any other
colors would, if properly chosen, make
just as handsome dress.
For the benefit of amateur dressmakers
/ would say that the waist lining is
sewn up and put on, and then the plaits
must be laid while on the wearer, other
wise they would quicker and pull out of
shape.
saw a magnificent robe pattern-in
fact two of them-this week in an i'm
porter's. They We're of the very finest
weave of ladies' broadcloth, one navy
blue, the other terra Gotta. To go along
the bottom Of the front and to use in
lapels for walking jacket of the blue
there was sort Of palm leaf applique
pattern in black "niggerhead" about
eight inches deep. All in between the
points was braiding SO delicate and
fine that it looked like the finest silk
embroidery.
The terra Gotta had turret points of dark
brown ''niggerhead," with the same lay
ish but delicate tracery. The effect is
indescribably lovely and rich These
may and doubtless win be copied in
other colors, and the deft fingers of many
lady could in week transfer a half
yard of niggerhead in vandykes, tur-
rets or any other style she fancies to a
broadcloth dress, and when it is done
she would bless her lucky star that she
had done so.
Many new fabrics have perpendicular
stripes in graduated widths Of tufted
effects, and this will be made up so that
the stripes form an edge to the drapery.
Rough and ready and homespun, as well
as tweeds and plaid and diagonal chew
lots, are seen, but, as said before, plaids
take the lead. The greens and blues are
more fancied for the young, for whom
they are very suitable.
Mouffion will be largely worn this fall
and winter by those who can afford it.
n TT