Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1890-09-18

Fail Millinery Matertais--Trim-
mings-N1vsIty Dress Gaoods-styies
IA Making.


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FAN Millinery MaGertats--Trtm
mings-Navsity Dress Goods-stytes
IA Making.
Special Correspondence OF Gazette and journal
New York, Sept. 4.--rhe prominence
of heliotrope is nado apparent by felts
in that color, the pale shades beng ex-
ponen,s of much that is novel aud deli.
cate. New felts in Nile green are equally
striking and while on the subject OF fall
coiofs, the russell shades, dark green and
dark blue, deserve mention as unusually
stylish. There is a moderate proportion
Of conservative brown aud the piles OF
black felt6 on wholesale counters
show the prolonged employment OF this
valuable contrast in dress. Nothing las
been found to replace velvet, as the ma
terial for dress bonnets and il comes In
all new colors with a large complement
OF plush that is often In Astrakhan weave
in compliance with the prominence of
such peculiarity in other departments.
oAPaTgs
range IN size from extremely small ones
to those Of quite large size, bat 1t is easy
to predict much mors style in the former
than the latter. Some shapea point
sharply over the forehead and others
show brim which commencing a. o
coronet, turns again upwards aud ont
wards with peculiar efact. Small rouad
hats are 4 varied tribe, some with OK
tremely low crowns and narrow brim4
which may turn upwards or downwarda
IN variety of contour as to special detail.
The assortment of wide brimmed telts ia
large and like summer straws, generally
prcj3ct i'll front und are narrow at The
bank, while there il also The customary
supply OF turbans aud English walking
hats with renewed complement this
season of toques. In ribbons there is
choice among marrow velvet, double
faced sItln, heavy grus graia or bro
1aded, from quite narrow to very wide
and though contrasts are seen, yet
there are self-colored aud IN greater nov
city, bfocades ia gilt or silver, the latter
being AZ times very freely used beeaug
50 much more refined than gilt Ostrich
prepared in an entirely new
method are destined to achieve much
popuarlty. Stripped from the quill thay
are then pasted in artificial shape, chiefly
pompons or bands aud thus form con
Venlent satnitnres. Skeleton toques made
e these feather bands replace tne sum
msr opas outlined by small alwsts ami
such trimming will be tqnally we'll
adapted TO small hats for young ladies or
oApotes worn by matrGna
PoMPoN4
will give a unique and becoming finish
hut here the coming rags for Prince OF
Wales tips will interfere, an equal popu-
iarlty belns IN store for bands Of ostrica
lips curled IL Prince OF Wales styla.
With desired Il iiilsss they will gdorn
Wide btimnel hs6s md adj to the gen
raj u u Of iluffinsss which IL 10
drest tui Pintar Bands o
tur are llke4ise $ coveted oEnamsntatiun,
otter with the littlc animll4
heRt ceutre pieOs. Small independent
heads are shown AZ ornaments and insect4
made y fur with ihetAl legs, eyes and
lntenru sud celiuloii wings are almnsl
81 absurd concession to the presen.
If mr..
DRESS MATERIALS,
rs shown bY Lord & Iaylor, are charac.
teIiz d by crest holiness in pattern AID
frequently likewise roughness ID sn.-
face. As txJoneuts or the former. cuins
9ools in enormous plaids or In circular
or oblong figures, while d stylish rou b.
D 80 Ii obtaupd by Astrakhan wsAyes,
arpa banretts lsaBinga or In camsra na,r
hy vary long hairs living tnick
On the body of the goods. Large plaids
are outlined by asirakahu clrltngs or the
latter may form Iae large oval or circular
spots to Whlon Hilu9ion has been made,
sud hairy ilttingi perform similar
otfiaa. Boutette dottings produce csr-
tain Vagusasss that Is pleasing because il
soiten1ou'liu 8 Rnd patterns OF thu eiz
~ preseht IN vogue, If MOI somewhat
saftened, w0pld III truth be int3Iuraols.
But n7t un'reIuenty IA AstsaghGn
weave wien pecsd in large designs DO
not SHARPLY outline them, but seems
rather to haye come accidentally into
position aad l0ug hairs living about aiva
y kindred efsot. Oolars M Jreoysr blend
gently whete surfaces are rough and al
rather sOmbfe Elfs la th4ie special lines
are employed, Considerable modification
results. The mafkst nevertheless is well
supplied Wi dress go3ts showing
BRIGHT LaEs
but hera, the Aurtacs4 ara smooth and
often III heDtihta weave. Clan plaids
are comp cReus and the very LARGE cir
culsr or oval spots which are equally a
featurs o. the season, Entire dresses
made in plaids on She bies nave proved
80 effective during summer for tail and
slender women that they will bs repeated
in winter materials and the eve having
grown accustomed to largo tignres in
India silks ana satinss will easily toler-
ate them in woods heavier silken
fabrics. But fr manifest reasons, the
class Of pers MS who Can wear costumes
In such fabrics Ii limited and the ma.
jcrlty need combination of plain
goods which frequently composes almost
che whole dress wife sktrt panels only
and aome corresponding touches on the
corsage OF large designs. Ia order to
exli6it properly these Meial4oth figures,
uat4sal must hang plainly, and, there.
fors, most OF t}e new illustrations sant TO
drssan4kers show the dr4pery in a
measure wrapped about tine figure or elss
falling entirely plata. Basqaas are still
very snort and slight l0opiDgs on one
aide IF the skirt in Marguerite style, do
not interfere with the general appearance
ol simplicity
IsnEPEHDEEr i dogs
viii be III yo4ue as shown BY iupcrta.
toms q viewer ia appropFilte lengths on
Whiou tue outer portions Of aleevaa, cuffs
ant oottaf are rlchiy embrU lsrei il sslt
paior n eeptlasts. phe15 arr to be worn
with fine wool o. silk skirta and are tho
fOfer1unars u coming varieties ID cor
sazea separate from skirts. HIheatre
Waists 80 always popular III wiater
because theg ars dres.Y while the skirts
worn WITH u 4nsy have dome hard ser.
vice and Therefore b. conveniently uti-
iiz 4 At places q smafmont where i'll.