Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-04-27

Charcoal Peddler. risin g terrace-hke,
one behind another, up the sloping hillsides.
Over every door a lamp is hung; and
when thousands of these lights along the
levee and in the town, are doubled by their
own reflection in the water, the effect is
dazzling. In the center OF IL towers the
three-storied "Palacio" of its Government,
uplifting quaint old tower, with clock,
like a warning finger pointing to the flight
of time; and on either hand are long rows of
massive buildings, whose white walls CLEAN
like purest marble. Every upper story has
q balcony, hung with canvas curtains,
the latter rolled up when the heat
of the dav is over; and the balconies, pro-
jecting outward, form long series of arches
over the sidewalks, precisely like the Rue
de RivoIi, in Paris. The lower floors are
occupied by the shops, all gorgeous with
lights and colors; and the whole popula-
ton, who remain indoors by day to escape
the heat, turn out en- masse in the evening.
Strains of martial music from the barracks
mingled with the clang of vesper bells,
come floating on the breeze; and the river,
like the streets, is alive with gaily dressed
people. padding about in narrow gondolas
and broad-bosomed RATS, to the music of
guitars and mandolins, folk-songs and
happy laughter.
BRIGHT ANTICIPATIoNS DISPELLED.
But alasl The first peep of dawn dispels
all visions of Oriental, Partisan or Venetian
magnifcence. Those stately, marble-like
casas, with their curtained balconies and
beautiful arches, prove to be dIlapIdated,
earthquake shaken structures of white
washed mud and bamboo; the gondolas are
mere dug-outs, or primitive RATS made of
logs lsshed together with vines; and the
''gaily dressed populace" are mostly un-
dressed Indians and dirty half-breeds
slouching along in blankets and red flannel
petticoatsl
The aquatic citizens of Ecuador seem
quite as much at home in the water as out
of 1t, and the business of boatmen appears
to be the most lucrative that can be engaged
In. So far as clothes are concerned, thev
are about as nearly "in a state of nature"
as any humans we ever came across-the
best dressed among them wearing nothing
more than a straw hat, greasy string with
q blessed medal or charm attached, the lat
ter about three inches square, resting on the
breast like a small lung protector or porous
plaster, and a scanty pair of bathing trunks,
as much resembling trousers as the breech-
clout OF a cannibal. Among the Spanish
and Indian rabble we noticed few China
men and Italians and good many negroes,
who have probably drifted down here from
the mosquito coast of Jamaica.
Our party selected q sable Sambo, who
lowered head and shoulders above his fell
lows and swing q pair of fists like well-eured
hams. and engaged him for the day in the
dual capacity of Charon and cicerone-not
on account of his beauty Che was about the
most unprepossessing specimen I ever be-
held), but because he declared himselfa
genuine Philadelphian, a direct importa-
tion from the "City of Brotherly Love-
MARKET ON WATEP
The Guayas river at this point looks much
like the Mississippi in the neighborhood of
New Orleans. We were surprised to find
regular water market stretching all along
the edge of the town, where boats laden with
all manner of produce were drawn up closely
as possible, while the owners stood on shore
shouting the merits of their respective wares.
All the city's provisions, raised in outlying
gardens and plantations, are brought down
the river on balsas, RATS. and thus exposed