davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
CAPEs IN ALL STYLES.

Capes in all styles still obtain. from the
familiar coachman style with capes "too
numerous to mention, % to the newest and
prettiest-wonder if we don't ALWAYS think
the latest thing out the prettiest-the ac-
Gordon pleated with deep yoke and collar
band embroidered or braided in silk. black
or colors, jet, and yes, actually, tinseil To
paraphraZe, the trail of the tinsel is over all
even for street display right which it
would be IN better taste to relegate to Bar
nun exclusively.
The newmarket should now be called the
oldmarket but by any name it would be as
serviceable and able to hold its own among
utility wraps. 1t makes its bow the present
season just enough changed to deceive the
unwary. Most OF these coats now have a
loose front, with cord and tassels kuotted
carelessly In pretense of holding the slight
fullness in place, but in reality for the or
namental effect. There is less lullness in
the back of skirt and less curve below the
waist line than formerly since there is no
hustle to be accommodated. A pleat is laid
at each side seam to egualize the fullness of
the skirt, but pressed fat. allowing slight
spring at the bottom only. The sleeves of
the present newmarket are large, either cut
la Bishop, gathered with and falling over
deep cuffs, or cut square at the elbow over
close under-sleeve, or, with long sleeves
reaching quite to the foot of the garment.
AN ERA OF sHAwLs.
1t has been promised that shawls will be
much more worn than for some time mast.
OF course, the standard Paisley and India
have always been in vogue for elderly
ladies, but this popularity is on the in
crease; and certain it is, they are suitable
and convenient wraps But the new shawls
designed for younger women are pretty little
fringed affairs, with borders in rosebud and
other flower designs, and come in all shades,
with borders OF different widths. some quite
elaborately executed in Persian colors, with
q large sprinkling Of tinsel. These shawIs,
when folded scari-style, are to be quite a
pretty addition to bordered spring robes.
For opera wraps or any evening wear, the
popular material continues plush or velvet,
either plain or broche, though there are
many newer and costlier fabrics, among
which are the lich silk brocades, Persian
and Venetian, the very names being sugges-
tive OF elegance. The splendid effect of
these stutfs is due to the Oriental colors, in
termlxed with tinsel. A popular and very
dressy cut for these cloaks is in the form of
a jacket at the back, long loose fronts OPEN
ing over Louis XIV. vest, with flowing
sleeves, the lining OF sleeves and garment
throughout to be of satin in a pretty con-
trastlng or harmonizing color, and the TRIM
ming OF Oriental gaIoon, with metallic effect
Or, if cut oi white matelesse or silver or
gold brocades, let the trimming be of the
new white angora wool fringe, which has its
beading in cord passementerie or corded net.
MUFFs FGR THE SPRING TIME.
think few hints on muffs apropos in
an article on wraps, especially since they
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

are at present receiving more consideration
than at any time previous. No toilet this
spring will be considered complete without
the adjunct of a muff. Not the heavy, hot
affairs OF fur, appropriate to seal and other
furry wraps, but little, wee, ornamental
things. sometimes of cloth to match a
particular suit, but oftener of black, manu-
factured by deft fingers at home, of the new
regence silk, and decorated with ribbons
and lace as fancy dictates, for which we
have license ad libitum. No doubt little
later. when flowers are blooming upon
spring headwear, a bunch Of gay
flowers among the lace Will De
admissible, which enlivening acces-
sory NAV assist in attracting the
attention of the obdurate street car driver,
when waved frantically aloft, in manner
familiar to us all, but which, of course, Will
not be as well calculated to make shelf tor
bundles piled chin high, use commonly
and inelegantly made OF them. A muf is
only pretty accessory to an elegant toilet
when rightly carried; then it gives ease and
grace TO the wearer; but when held down.
ward at arms length, or hugged to the
breast with arms akimbo or in any way to
best support mountain of packages, any
thing but grace is the effect.
COMMON SENSE IN SELECTIONS.
And now few words in regard to the
selection of wraps. The wearer must be
governed by her own individuality as re-
CARDS color, material and style. There are
fashions in plenty for us all. Let the
woman of ample dimensions avoid light
colors and short wraps. Long wraps are
most becoming to stout women, especially
those that do not define the figure too closely
and are cut in straight, slender breadths.
Short Jackets diviue the length of the figure
and give the appearance OF breadth. Short
women should avoid canes. as the effect
would be to dwarf them. Light colors make
the thin woman appear stouter, ETC., ETC.,
and yet we would almost have to trepan
some people to get these facts into their
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
SCIENCE ISN'T PROFITABLE.

The Widow of Prof. Richard A. Proctor
Was Left Unprovided For.
New York World.l
Mrs. Richard A. Proctor, widow of the
astronomer whose death was due as much to
oficiousness on the part OF the Board of
Health as to the yellow fever, was left un-
provided for. Science is immortal, but rare
ly profitable, and all the savings of the
genial professor went for instruments, charts
and publications. He left library of his
own in manuscript, from which Mrs. Proc
tor has compiled lectures, and is delivering
in college towns and cities for her support.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

chair for two or three nights before a ball to
keep your hair from becoming disarranged?
The mothers of the revolutionary heroes
used to. The business of the hairdresser
was so great that one was obliged to have
her hair arranged before state or social
events or else she could not be presented.
Coils and plaits followed the tedious and
ungainly construction of hair ornamenta-
tion, and the French revolution caused the
world to suspend for time the use Of pow
ders and pomades, the ladies for a while
confining their tresses in antique fllets and
appearing tar more lady-like than ever be-
fore
At no period of the history of hair-dress-
ing was there any prettier or more simple
method adopted and carried out than
among the first settlers, a description of
which will be better understood when we
study the modern styles, which are gen.
orally very much the same, excepting in the
forelocks, which are banged or frizzed. A
Puritan maiden did not possess the requisites
for fixing up" She did not have the time
nor the occasion to spend halliday over her
flowing locks; like the Greeks, the more
simple the knot at the back the better, and
while the front hair was not kept down with
bands 1t was always smooth, and by way of
decoration neat little cap of bright gauzy
material greatly alleviated the trouble and
added some pretty lines to the contour both
OF children and maidens, as we'll as the older
folks.
The customs of the courts in Europe and
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

he present century the hair-dresser was the
busiest man in the world. The cost OF full
dressing OF the hair was very great, and
often one dressing Of it would last week or
longer. Great care was taken of the greasy
mass as far as preserving the forms
went, but as consequence of the aceumu-
lstion of dirt and heat, the fashionable
danes suffered no end of trouble with in
sects-a fact. gentle reader, and one which
bothered the good ladies no end. Think of
it. We modern beauties, would you sit up in a
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
TEN DOLLARS WORTH OF SILENCE.
A Belated Husband Whc Got the Better of
His Better Half

Belated Husband Whc Got the Better of
His Better Half
st. Louis Republic.l
A well-known citizen adopted novel ex-
pedient the other night to secure peace.
1t was incumbent upon him to attend to
some business downtown and he promised
his wife he would positively be back at $780,
There would be no slipup, no accidents or
mishaps, no "ifs" or "buts"-there could be
no mistake about it-he would be home at
$50 prompt. His wife looked little doubt
full. "WilI you give me dollar for every
hour that you are later than that?" she
asked.
Done" he exclaimed. and forgot all
about it.
As he groped his way in at IL o'clock he
suddenly bethought himself of his wager.
OF course his wife was up. "Here, my
dear, I'm two hours and half late, here's
S.. Double pay. Now, don't say word"
The lady saw that she could not honorably
refuse to abide by the compact, but declares
now that she wouldn't have taken $40 for
the curtain lecture which she had mapped
out and committed to memory for the occa-
sion.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

When her Royal Highness. the Princess
de Chartres, and the young Princess Mar
prisoner was, they wore adorable toilets,
just suited to the occasion. They were SON.
Der in color and plain in outline. The
young faneee of the Due d'Orleans wore a
slate gray cloth and black velvet wrap, with
hat and plumes to match, while the Prin-
cess de Chartres wore dark green stuff
robe, with charming little visite of black
velvet and faille, trimmed with silk passe-
menterie and fringe. and wore a blac k
capote to match.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

the higher or more fashionable folks in thii
country are far more reasonable than they
ever have been, and monstrous Election
styles" which called forth the following
humorous description, will, let US hope
never be worn again. The poet said:
A cat like bat
(Which was once a crayat)
Part gracefully plated and pinned Is;
Part stuck upon gauze,
Resembles macaws
And all the fine birds Of the Indies.
But above all the rest,
A bold amazon's crest
Waves nodding from shoulder to shoulder:
At once to surprise
And to 1avish all eyes,
To frighten and charm the beholder,
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
The Veil n Prime Necessary.

The veil has always been an important
adjunct to the toilet of woman, and just
now, when lovely woman stoops to folly and
looks upon the rouge when it is red, the
strip of illusion becomes more than ever a
necessity. A veil is a coquetry to pretty
girl, charity to an ugly one.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
JEWELS on GLOVES.
Beautiful Sparklers on the Backs of Grnce.
fuI Hauds the Rage in Paris

full Hands the Rage In Paris.
A fad of Paris is now the jeweled glove.
Some of them have three rows Of diamonds
SO arranged that they could be sewed on to
one pair of gloves and yet transferred again
to another pair at will. They look most
charming on the hand.
This fashion seems strange, because en-
broidered gloves have rarely made much
headway in modern times, though centuries
ago they were most popular. Fine work is
we'll as jewels. The arms and crests of noble
and royal houses adorn the top, while flow
ers and leaves, In designs and in the natural
colors, cover the outside of the black kid
gloves especially, silver lilies of the valley
being placed on white kid.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

HERE is no use
in pretending that
the question of
dress is a frivolous
or an idle one.
Every woman, if
she means to fill
her own place in
the world, is bound
to make the mos:
of herself and to
keep on doing it
as long as she
lives. But how J.?
To begin with,
every style, every
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
rTEN FOR THK DIsPATcH.l

THE weather so far
this month has been
m n e suggestive of
wraps than of lace
robes, summer silks,
the very novel line of
new ginghams or even
the all wool suitings
for spring wear, with
which our counters
are already laden SO
much in advance of
the season, that they
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

will have lost much of the charm of newness,
and be as twice told tale before the weather
permits their adoption.
But about wraps The very newest and
altogether 'nobbiest," as man would say.
is the blazer 1t comes made of beautiful
fine cloth, known among dealers by the
name of Wales, in two twills or stripes
designated narrow wales and wide wales
The blazer is jacket-cut without darts or
vest, and has what is termed shawl collar
of the rolliag persuasion, quite broad about
the neck, but growing beautifully less as it
nears the termination of the jacket, which
is tailor-bound. The absence OF the vest is
in itself a recommendation, since it affords
the display of handsome dress waist, elab-
crate habit or gay fedora. instead of con-
cealing, crushing, and of course in time, de-
stroying the same as do the closely buttoned
Jackets
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
SPRING FAHCIES In WRAPS.

High Shoulders Grace Everything That's
New and Rejuvenate Everything That's
Old-SomeIhing Gorgeous in Mu1s and
Dainty in Sha wis.
TwRITTKN FOR THK pIsPATCH.l
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

without telling, depends upon the fit and
finish, since there are no trimmings to con-
ceal such defects. The principal material
used in the manufacture of these garments is
the diagonal, corkscrew, wales or cheveron
oil
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

THANKS to the introduction of Salvation
Oil our young bicyclers need not fear fall.
25 cts.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
HIGH SHOULDERS POPULAR.

All wraps whether jacket, dolman, cloak,
mantle or any of the numerous capes, are
the present season cut with high shoulders
and the pieuant effect of this style seems to
be rightly understood and fully appreciated
since so prevalent. An elegant mantle in
armure-regence silk, short at the back and
fitted quite close, fronts square cut and
reaching nearly to the knees, is trimmed
around the high collar and over the shoul-
ders with an elaborate passementerie. A
heavy fall of lace finishes the edge beaded
with rassem Iterie in long points from
which depend crocheted pendant dropping
over rhe lace frill.
A lore of a wrap-and wrap differs from
a mantle in that it is smaller in CUTS of
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
COMMON SENSE IN SELECTIONS.
BEAUTY THAT is HIDDEN.

Dainty and Handsome Things in Underwear,
Without Which No Lady is Well Dressed
A Good Word for the Corset-Cheap
Boots md Silks.
rWRITTEN FoR THE DISPLTCul
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
TIE LATEST In PARIS.
Hints for the Butterflies in the Trappings of
Princesses.

The past month has brought to sight
in Paris an unusually large number
of the old nobility of France. Hand
some salons that have been closed
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

to all but very small and select circle of
friends have been thrown open. and the
always beautiful Duchesse d'Uzez gave a
grand reception, where no one whose rank
was less than Baron or Count or Countess
was seen. Nine la Duchesse wore superb
robe en- train of electric blue plush, with
drapery of embroidered crepe de chine In
pale blue. In her abundant hair she wore
a crescent of diamonds.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

the heaviest faille
franc ,ise, has Ma
RE Antoinette COL
lar, corded net
shoulders, which,
BY the way, is a
rigt; new feature,
pass e n e n t erie
trimming and bot
tom finish of deep
lace. Many of
these wraps are fin
ished with corded
fringe or the newer
grass fringe, which
carries its own
beading in passe-
menterie, the pref
test designs being
in leaf or broche
Ggure.
The close-but-
tonedj jacket, which
like the sealskin
coat and the poor
we have always
with Us, is given
quite the appear
ance of new birth
by the high shoul-
der effect. Perfec-
tion in this line of
wraps. it should 90
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
WRITTEN

!
be founded upon personal cleanliness.
The well-dressed woman must be
not many hours from herbath, and
must carry about her that atmosphere
of freshness so obvious and character
istic of the upper classes in England; "well
groomed" they call themselves, and young
Englishmau, whatever else you NAV say OF
him, does suggest the idea of buckets OF
water, sponges. towels, combs and brushes
Next to the bath comes lingerie, and
again say, no woman, whatever the fabric
of her outer dress may be, as well dressed,
or dressed as she should be, unless she has
dainty underclpthing. Dainty" does not
always mean expensive, and one of the very
daintiest outfits of linerthat ever saw was
made for herself by young girl of small
means but great refinement, about to be
married. The only expense in the whole
matter was that she had used cambric in
stead of that stout cotton fabric which in
New York is called muslin" and which,
although a few cents in the yard cheaper
than cambria, is utterly incapable of being
made dainty.
Well, not to enter into particulars, my
little bride had crocheted and tatted and
netted and knitted the greatest variety of
trimmings, and had run little blue ribbons
in at the neck and sleeves and frills, and
had embroidered big monogram on every
thing, and in some places had appliqued
sprigs and wreaths of French embroidery,
and in fact had quite unconsciously to her.
self written the word lady over the whole
business, until it seemed to me almost lib
erty to be turning over and admiring such
personal matters.
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
HOW SHE ECoNoMIZED.

The dear child had hardly half a dozen
gowns in her trousseau, and none of those at
all expensive; but although she mad not
made them, she had contrived them, and
each one told, and would do its whole duty
and always look appropriate to the occasion.
Two dresses were planned to be made into
one alter year or two, and would then be
more effective than either could be alone,
and a sumptuous evening dress with a court
train and low body could, by detaching the
train and substituting high bodice, be
worn in the street or at a reception. This
bride was destined to that hardest posi-
tions for a woman-that of one who wishes
and is required to dress well upon small
means. She lived in the world, and among
people richer than herself
But again, it is not every women who,
lacking money, has skill or time to make
pretty things tor herself, and to such would
say: Don't sink down into feeling that YOU
don't carei Do the very best you caa with
the means at your command, and keep on
trying to do better.
One article of underwear deserves especial
notice, and that is the corset. A certain
class Of reformers have bent their energies
more or less for many years to the destruc-
tion and exile of this "means of grace"
and with some success. A hideous
garment, or, rather, an agglomeration
of garments, known as "dress re-
form" or a Combination has been
invented, and large class Of brave and
determined women have worn them, and
some continue to wear them, but whence
the salts action they seem to derive and the
benevolent wish to induce everybody else to
follow their example, never could under
stand. They certainly lose in appearance,
for l don't think the most rabid reformer
can really prefer the bulky waists, the fiat
busts and the queer look as il the woman
and her clothes were walking in opposite
directions, or as if the house were on fire
and she had thrown some shapeless wrapper
over her nightdress.
COMMON SENSE AND THE CORSET.
Of course. everybody comedies, in these
days of hygiene and common sense, that a
corset should never be worn tight enough to
hinder respiration, even under violent exer-
else. 1t should never make one feel uncom-
Portable to throw ones self upon lounge in
the daytime, nor should it be relief to take
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
COLONIAL BEAUTIES.
Marvellous Methods of Hair Dressing
in Ye 0lden Times.
THE ELECTION STYLE A FOOT HIGH.
A Thing to Commend Was That the Hail
Never Intruded on the Face.
INCoNvENIENCEs A BELLE ENDURED


10 ANlI4 was as
i plentiful in the
Z days of our ances-
tors as now, but no more
80 then or now than has
ever been evident among
savages. To look pretty
as well as neat is a hu-
man characteristic, the
matrons and maidens OF
the COLONY were given
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16
KEEPING THE SKIN MOIST.

made by the popular preparations of glycer-
inc and tragacanth solution, known as vio-
let glycerine and other names, the lotion
keeping the surface moist and elastic, so
Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-03-16

ceal the dust, were the rage, and the buckle
style shows to some extent the true method
of arrangement.
The prison mirror. [volume] (Stillwater, Minn.) 1887-1894, 1890-09-18
Five Gents,

my heart for the handsome and unfortunate
young homicide. who was about my own
age, called to visit him on my way to
meet my appointment. The jailer. who
was just starting to dinner, said to me, II
will have to lock you in the cell here with
the prisoner while l am gone, but 1 will
soon be back" Accordingly, was locked
in with the condemned man. The jailer
failed to come back as he had promised.
Overcome by the heat and heavy dinner,
he had dropped asleep. and slept on. OBJ
llvlOuS OF JallS, prisoners, and me. SO we
two. the prisoner and myself. passed the
whole of that long, hot afternoon together
in that cell. 1t was memorable interview
for us both. The young man made clean
breast of his case. breaking down when he
spoke OF his mother, who was widow, res
ident in Newark, N. j. 1 forgot all about
my engagement in the suburbs. Touched
with sympathy and compassion, l read to
him words of mercy and hope out of the
book of God. Then we prayed together;
and our prayer was heard by the all-gracious
Father, whose ear is never deaf to the cry
Of broken and contrite spirit. A soul was
saved that day. The young mans blood
guiltiness and all his sins were forgiven;
and the fact was certified to his conscious
soul by the Immediate touch of the Holy
Spirit. Knowing that he was not muir.
derer at heart. interested myself in his be-
half; and, with the kindly aid of others, his
punishment was first commuted to imprisOn-
ment for life, and then he was granted
full pardon. On his release. he went at
once to his mother and sisters in New Jer-
sey, where he entered into business and
prospered from the start. Identifying HIM
self with the Church of Christ, he became
an active and efficient Christian worker, a
helper to every good cause; and, remember
ing his own early misfortune. he was a
friend to every needy and troubled man.
He lived a good life and made good end.
Two souls were blessed in the Jail that day.
the prisoner found his deliverer, and 1
learned lesson have never fOrgotten.-
The Christian Register.