Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-04-20

with grape striped borders; SILK erenauihe
almost lusterless; canton crepe. crepon
crepe de chine, crinkled like real Grape
silk and wool armures and the STANDARD
henriettas. ,..
For warmer weather we have a beautiful
line of lusterless India and surah silks, ano
| for vet lighter wear the usual supply OF pa
tistes, jaconets and organdies as flne as
woven upon the spiders loom.
In the makeup of these materials the pre-
yailing fashions in colored robes is to be Cd
served, barring trimming the skirt VIII
bugles. passementeries or like decorations
which is not admissible for first mourning
Put all the money you can afford In youl
mourning. if Won will wear it, for it is para
doxically true the dearest is the cheapest
Have the material rich, but the makeup
plain if you would be above criticism.
AN ACCORDION EFFECT.
The latest wrinkle in skirts is akin to the
accordion method of appropriating count
less yards ofsmaterial, the difference being
in the manner of disposing of the wrinkle
In the accordion the pleats stand out stif1y.
In the Partisan they lie fat and adapt them
selves more obligingly to bands.
Trimmings may be INDUCED in more
layishly upon the waist than for some sea-
sons past. Dull jet is in great favor. The
prevailing styles in tinsel galoons and col
ored passementeries and cut jet have been
copied in the dull jet, and come In sets
designedly shaped for the places they are to
occupy. Even the romantic Spanish jacket
fronts are reproduced in this jet. Orna-
ments and trimmings in dull silk passemen-
teries and in Grape passementerles are
among this seasons novelties. The surplice
and other buckles come in crocheted covers
of dull silk, or covered with crepe de chine
and in dull jet.
An attempt is being made to revive the
English fashion of Grape bands and panels
for dress skirts; and the ugly wiry Grape
veil which dehes the most artistic touches
OF the draper, knows no boundary limits
and makes a woman hideous and unearthly
enough to frighten an engine off its track.
NOT MAKING ANY HEADwAY.
1t is pleasurable to notice that this
fashion is making no headway. but that the
clinping, silky nuns yelling everywhere
and upon ali occasions prevails. This veil
is laid in plain folds across the front OF a
fiat bonnet, and falls in rich, soft drapery
almost to skirt hem if worn with visiting
or church costume but considerably shorter
if for travelling. Crepe folds for dress
trimming is elegant for elderly ladies who
wish to draw the line between their apparel
and that of younger members in a bereaved
family.
If the intention of mourning in costume
were to turn the thoughts from loss to attire,
then crepe it should be, for it is a constant
source of anxiety from the time donned un-
til doffed. Rain, sunshine, dust and wind,
are alike ruinous. However, the ex-
trayagance or worriment of crepe will
not be matter for consideration when the
g c. forx
in the net of custom, and we can't mourn
our dead in the same black this year we did
last. The fashion in grief has changed-or
the emblem of it. Ridiculous? Yes 1
think so. We are familiar with the fable
of the lion who got caught in a net; how he
gnashed at it with his powerful paws, made
the forest ring with his roars, but with no
effect; the net still enveloped him, until
humble little field mouse attracted by his
cries nibbled a mesh in the net and he was
free-aud let us hope, grateful. 1t will
take many mice to destroy the strong net OF
mourning customs, but let us keep nibbling.
ONE OF THE WRAPS.
Something out of the usual order of wraps
for mourning is described as trimmed in os-
trich plumes, the material of heavy armure
silk; the edges finished with fringes of the
plumes, and jet beading above the
feathers. This wrap was for one Duchess
d'Osta, so l suppose it will be considered
q safe model. For these between-season
days, the plain jacket, with the stylish high
shoulders, is wrap above reproach. A
little later and the pretty Alberta fchue,
cape-shaped in back and with long taba-
liers front, will be worn. These, knotted
carelessly on the bust or at waist line, ac-
cording to the proportion of wearer, will be
an elegant acquisition to toilet.
Parasols to be carried with full mourning
are in plain lusterless surah, shirred with
cords and knlfe-pleated frill in lieu of
fringe or lace, and gros grain ribbon
braided in basket-weave with ribbon loops
finishing the edge, and dainty Maries with
covers of pean de sole or point d'esprit
Black and white conceits IN plaids, in
stripes or with borders, white on black or
vice versa, are exhibited for second mourn
ing but will not be confined to that wear
exclusively. Black and white is a charm
ing and safe combination, since less trying
than all black. However, this was not the
reason Mrs. Jones gave for appearing, few
days after having buried her husband, in an
attractive costume of black and white.
Jones was her second husband and she be-
lieved in the eternal fitness of things.
DESIGNS FOR SECOND MOURNING.
All the new designs appearing upon
colored robes are reproduced for second
mourning in black and gray, white and
gray and black and white. India silks and
challies have white figures in black and
black or gray spaced far apart. The same
styles come in chambrays and other wash
goods that are found in wooden suitings.
In handkerchiefs for mourning the most
approved has broad band in black, set in
back of the rather wide hem-though the
most expensive have embroidered borders or
corners. Narrow stitching prevails on
gloves, undressed kid and silk being alike
fashionable.
Now, notwithstanding my prejudice I
have told you of the newest and most ele-
giant in mourning effects. but 1 NAV not
have done it in right or pleasing manner.
However, it is not all important whether 1
am quite right or absolutely wrong SO long
as my opinion is honest. Any sort of an
honest opinion should help toward proper
judgment. If could be always right and
pleasing would not be writing up black
robes for you, but white ones for the angels.
MEG.