The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-12-21

outlying islets and holms the occasional
roarings Of the Atlantic which may often
be heard for distance of twenty miles as
the bowling storms beat upon mural preci-
pieces of the western shores, and,
above all, probably the grandest free
where the lochs and tarns which
communicate with the sea, are alive with
brown trout, and the woes aud gios indent-
ing the coast swarm with sen trout ilnu-
merable, have all contributed in rendering
these remote islands easy of access. From
Edinburgh or Glasgow they may now be
reached by rail to Thurso, and steamer to
the Orkneys in eighteen hours time. Or
one may take train to Aberdeen and thence
BY steamer skirt the eastern Scottish coast,
wall, in the Orkneys. and reach Lerwick,
the capital of Shetland, in twenty-four
hours time from Aberdeen.
The latter is coasting trip full of in
cident and interest as the coast of Scotland
is nearly always in sight. Leaving Aber-
hours sail brings you abreast of the great
Slams castle, the seat of the Earl of Enrol,
where DIR. johnson and Boswell were en-
tertained in 1878, one of the grandest situa
ton on the entire eastern coast. Then for
a long distance the coast is reach of soft.
honeycombed scaur, assuming at frequent
intervals the appearance of Gothic ruins
with open arches. This leads to the
famous Buffers (roarers) of Buchan,
tremendous caverns in the precipitous
sea-wall, where in high gales tho
waters rush in with terrific violence,
shrieking of sea-fowl, which build along
the edge of Dun Buy in myriads, give the
spot as dolorous aud dreadful sounds as
those greeting the doomed Vathek in the
awful realms of Eblis. Beyond the "Bul-
lers'' to the NORTH the noted red granite
nprsno <,ED M s,, ,,x,l,k
but four miles further. IL the city Of Peter
head, olden seat of the Greenland trade,
now given over to shipbuilding and fishing,
the easternmost town in Scotland, domi-
mated. with its fiat surrounding country, by
the bleak hill Of Marmon, rearing its lone
and coffin. shaped head IN the northwest
horizon.
Fraserburgh, one of the great east coast
fishing ports, is next passed, when the
course is changed, and your steamer
crosses the ninety miles wide mouth of the
great Moray Firth, headed for Wick. the
Peterhead and Wick are, outside Of Shet-
land, the most important fishing ports of
Scotland. and in smiling from the former
to the latter. fully 1000 craft may be
counted in pleasant weather. At Wick
where the gigantic breakwater. on which
is in ruins landing passengers and freight
is dangerous business in winter. Lighters
are employed, and the huge ones for freight
are known as "bulI-boats.'' Wick was
formerly the herrinRopoiis of the world.
Even now its population of 5000 souls is
doubled during the fishing season, and as
the distinct and individual smells of our
own odorous Gloucester and PASSPORT. Of
Irelands Galway. of England's St. Ives
and Yarmouth, and Scotland's Newhayen.
seem to have concentered here in a pain
able pail OF pungent pollution. penetrating
single street and banking into iusufferable
stenches in her dark side alleys, WINDS and
closes.
From Wick northward the coast prows
holder in outline ard is given added MIC
turesqueness by the huge ancient towers
and modern castlea, here and there built
upon tho very edge of headland and preci-
pice. Among these are the castles OF Gin
clair and GirniQoe, the seat of the Sinclairs.
founded by the thames of Caithness'
the latter very strong and ancient for
talice; castle FinRlas. in Sinclair's Bav:
castle keiss; and the lone ruins of Bnch,
oily castle; and half an hour after pass-
n0rtheastermost point of the Scottish main
land. This 10 noble Duncansby Head. II
is two miles in circumference, lofty emer-
aid cone set on sea-base Of fearful rocks
Rashed with numberless gloe or stream-en-
terinR chaams, and reaching threateninoly
into the sea huge s'stacks'' or colnmnar
rocks, fashioned by the oceans beat
ing into all manner of weird and
fantastic shapes. A glimpse Of the
little inn near tho former site Of ancient
John o'Groat's House, is caught around
70 the west Of DuDcansby Head. Beyond
The natrovetkatt stands the little cultivated