davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
Dyes.

"Dyeing," says an expert in the Wash
ington Star, "simply means boiling
things in copper kettles for the proper
time in a solution of dye and water. For
what We call fancy colors' we use the
aniline tints that are derived from coal
tar. Every coal bed is mine of rainbow
hues, you know. The aniline dyes en-
ployed arc chiefly for light blue, maroon,
cardinal red and such brilliant effects.
Woods ground to coarse powder are
largely relied upon by the dyer. For in
stance, there is santal wood for ccru, from
the Santalwood Islands; logwood for red,
from Sicily; gall nuts for silver drabs,
from Alcppo; fustic for yellow from
Cuba, and madder root for ecru, from
the south of France. 1t has been found
that maddcr, alternately fed to and with
held from growing animals, will color
their bones so that in section they will
appear white and yellow in alternate
rings from center to circumference. You
must remember that all these are used
in an infnity Of combinations. 1t is
rare that one of them is applied pure and
simple. One dye for crimson is obtained
from the lac insect, scraped from the
bark of certain trees in the East Indies. ,,
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
Warning Value of Silver.

Silver, in its relative value to gold
has varied greatly at different times. In
the days of the patriarch Abraham it was
s to /; B. G. 1000 it was II to /; B.
C. 500 1t was 13 to /, and at the COM
mencement of the Christian era it was 9
to 1. In the year 500 A. D. it was 1S to
1; in 100 it was to /, and in 14OO II
was II to 1.
In 1854 gold was only six times more
valuable than the precious white metal,
silver, and within the next hundred years
two pounds of silver could be exchanged
evenly for one of gold. In 1900 gold
was again worth ten times as much as its
paler brother. In 1925 gold was thir.
teen times more valuable than silver,
just as it was 500 years B. G. At the
beginning of the present century it had
risen in value to higher point than at
any time since 500 A. D., being fifteen
times more valuable than silver. In 1876
the ratio of silver to gold was twenty to
one, and in 1886 it was at the highest
point ever known, since which time ii
has gradually declined to twenty to one.
Chicago Herald.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
FOR woMAN's WRISTS.

The favored bracelets just now must,
first of all, be unique, and the Expo
sition has, because of its wonderful ex-
hibit in jewclry, afforded opportunity to
whoever had the good taste and ducats
to get Just the jeweled band that one
woman would most envy another. One
of the most beautiful is of Indian work,
the background being of that soft gold
in which the Indian workers so delight;
in this is set circle of every known,
and, 1 do believe, unknown gem, uncut.
The effect is marvellous. A pink pearl
is wooing your eye and claiming admi-
ration close to an opal, while black
pearl is making more beautiful the depth
of color in ruby. Three different
shades of turquoise are shown dark
and a light amethyst form contrast,
while one of the most perfect cmeralds
imaginable seems to be throwing out q
ray of hope as it nestles closely to a
milk-white pearl. The ordinary, every
day bracelet designated by even the
extraordinary jeweler sinks into insig-
nificance beside this wondrous band OF
color, which can be traced to opal and
pearl, turquoise and emerald, ruby and
diamond, chrysoberyl and chrysoprase,
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
He Looked Rather Blue.

Over on Desplaines street is well-to-
do retail grocer who came here from
Germany some years ago and has grown
up with the city. Along in the early
70s there was a popular dye house next
door to his grocery store, and in the
back yard were number of dye vats and
great tank in which the dyer jealousy
guarded a good supply of soft rain
water, in which he rinsed out the gar
ments sent to him to be cleansed. For
many weeks the German grocer had had
his eye on this rain water tank, and had
thought how delicious would be a bath
in its cool depths. One warm, moon
light midsummer night the grocer looked
from an upper window into the dyer's
back yard and the CLINT of the moon
beams on the rain water tempted him
sorely. Along about midnight, without
saying word to any one, the German
sneaked out of his back door, soap and
towel in hand, cautiously scaled the
fence and gained the dyer's yard. In
the shadow of the rain water tank he
disrobed, and then he vaulted into the
pellucid water. The sensation was
delicious.
The sly German splsshed around in the
water, lathering himself thoroughly with
the soap, and chuckled to think of the
CONSERVATION of his neighbor, the dyer,
when he found his rainwater full of
soapsuds the following morning. After
while he hoped out, rubbed himself
dry with his towel, jumped into his
clothes, and climbed over into his own
yard. He went into the house, and, as
he entered his wife's room, she screamed
and called for the police. He looked
surprised and asked what she was yelling
about. She recognized his voice and
asked where on earth he had been. He
grinned and told her. Then she asked
him to look in the glass. When he did
so he fell back in astonishment. He
was darkly, deeply, beautifully blue;
even to his blonde whiskers and hair.
The adventurous German disrobed and
the dyer was summoned. He howled
when he saw the grocer, and explained
that he had put blue dye in the rain
water tank that afternoon. Chemicals
were used on the unfortunate grocer for
hours, but to this day blue spots can be
found all over him. Chicago Herald.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
FASHION NOTES.

Nearly every dress is double-sklrted.
The polonaise dress will be the rage in
the spring.
One of the Yankee notions is glove
with purse in the palm.
A rosette of colored velvet ribbon
trims q large muff of black martin fur.
Velvet sleeves and chatelaine are added
to elegant evening gowns of satin or
lampas.
The Russian collar of fur, Tapped to
the left side, remains the favorite finish
for long cloaks.
Very large muffs of beaver, sealskin or
sable are shown by modistes among the
midwinter importations.
Dressy waists of soft silk or satin in
some brilliant or artistic color are worn
with various skirts at the theatre.
Useful dresses of serge, cashmere and
plain mcrino ore trimmed with a good
deal of braid, especially of fancy weav-
ing.
A substitute for the boa is found in
the new capes of coqs' plumes with long
mantilla fronts, with tasseled bits OF
plumage all over them.
French furriers combine sealskin and
Russian sable in the same garment, IN
the same way sealskin and Persian lamb
are used in this country.
Plain dresses of cloth and serge are
made with jacket basques and straight
skirts, relieved by straight rows of braid
ing in various arrangements.
Jacket bodices, with deep pointed
Swiss belt and full plastrons laid in
tucks, are very fashionable for complct-
ing the walking costumes of young girls.
Entire toilets ofvelvet often have petit
coat fronts of satin in contrasting color,
and the rich effect is sometimes enhanced
by garnitures fgold cord passementeries.
Ostrich feathers in profusion trim the
largc-brimmed hats worn by little girls,
and the rule seems to be, the smaller the
girl, the greater the number of feathers.
The very swellest visiting costume
consists of patent leather shoes, brown
gloves, a close-ftting bonnet and long
polonaise buttoned diagonally from neck
to hem.
Combinations of velvet and broadcloth
are now made up in such similar styles
for cloaks and costumes that it is some
times difficult to tell which a lady may
be wearing.
Fur trimmed, tailor-made costumes of
brown or gray cloth are very much af-
fected by young ladies, the only outer
wrap worn by them being a princess OF
other shoulder cape of fur.
Garnitures of silk cord, made up in
V-shaped pieces for the front and back
of the waist, and in deep Vandyked
borders for the bottom of the skirt, are
the usual trimmings for costumes OF
plain velvet.
Full velvet sleeves, darker than the
material of the costume, and half
breadths, inserted between the breadths
of the skirt, give striking effect to
many of the newest gowns of dark OF
black cloth and silk.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
DoWDY WOMEN.

It is feared that Boston women car
never claim the title of being we'll dressed
says the Boston Herald. Do what the
few may to aspire to that favorable YER
dict, there is always the ordinary, un'
corseted, hygicnic majority to counter
act it.
1t would be laughable, were it not pa,
thetic, to note the shortcomings in this
one direction of the average Boston
woman. She has as much opportunity,
as many means of dressing we'll as women
elsewhere, but she invariably fails in pro,
ducing the effect which strikes the OBJ
server in New York.
Regard the throngs of women who daily
pass up and down Boylston street, fol-
instance, and point out ten, if you can,
who become their clothes, or who carry
themselves with grace and elegance.
Nearly all have been to fashionable tail
ors, who have done what lay within theil
power to give chic, air, style; but the
Boston woman is stubborn. She will
not permit her preconceived notions to
be displaced by the newest fashions; she
will wear a hygienic waist, if she wants
to; she won't wear her hair except so,
and she will kick up her skirts at the
back because her gymnasium teacher tells
her to bring all the muscles into play
when she walks.
Beside this, she is In haste. How can
she take life easily and gracefully when
sixty different calls are being made on
time and brains all at once2
The art of wearing her clothes we'll is
unknown to her. She puts them on.
She does not make her toilet. She
wouldn't be guilty of "prinking," " nor OF
being sure her boots were we'll blacked
nor would this usual Boston woman con-
slider it worth her while to take hand
mirror to see if the angle of her virsuous
bonnet corresponded with the angles Of
her profile and her back hair.
It is these little omissions, this forget
fulness of detail, which renders two,
thirds of our women dowdy-in the eyes
of apprcciative, though critical observ'
erS.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
Hari ksff In Jspsn.

The following description of the Japan.
ese method of committing suicide is given
by an English paper:
The family and friends of the noble to
commit suicide entered the room led by
a priest, the latter bearing in his hands a
full blooming lotus flower, which he de-
posted across the sword lying upon the
platform, and the spectators took seats
around the room. The nobleman then
entered, dressed in pure white garments,
with yellow colored scarf encircling his
body, and carrying in his hand little
saucer in which burned a wick lighted
previously from the everlasting light in
front of the family god.
Behind him came his eldest son, if over
five years of age-if not, his nearest re-
lative-carrying upon platter made of
sandal wood the wakizaski, dagger-like
weapon nine and half inches long, and
obliquely cut on the left side. The blade
of this lancet-looking weapon was
wrapped in yellow Grape, 8 lotus flower
being placed upon its hilt. It generally
was an heirloom of the family, and con-
sidered the most valuable article in its
possession. It is the instrument with
which hara kari was always committed.
The person to commit this act would
then kneel upon the platform with his
face toward the north and the wakizaski
placed before him. The priest would
take the lotus flower from the japanese
sword and cut the leaves in pieces, strew-
ing the same over the kneeling man.
After blessing him in this manner the
lights in the corner saucers were blown
out by the priest, and the light carried
by the suicide extinguished by his son or
nearest relative, and the time for the
final act had come.
After recounting in solemn voice the
insult suffered by him from his enemy,
he invoked the spirit of his ancestors to
see in what manner he upheld the family
honor entrusted to him at his birth, and
rising upon his left knee he would take
hold of the wakizaski with his left hand,
lift up his white robe with his right hand,
wrapping the end of the yellow sash
around his left wrist, and deliberately
and very slowly insert the dagger-like
knife into his stomach above the right
hip bone. At the moment he inserted
the knife his next-of-kin would take the
kahanna Ordinary sword, and with q
swift blow sever the head of the suicide
from the trunk. In every case Of this
description, when hara kari was committed
in defence of insulted honor, the insult
ing party was informed by the family
of the act performed, by sending to
him a sort of affidavit of the next
of-kin of the deceased written upon yel-
low paper wrapped in the leaves of the
lotus flower, and if that gentleman would
not be considered craven, unfit for as
sociation with honorable men, he, too,
would then commit hara kari in some:
what similar manner.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
FRENCH DREssXAKING.

French women are clever in the little
niceties of dressmaking which give fin
ish to the appearance. For example, ,un,
less skirt sits quite. evenly, it looks un-
slightly. They insure this by sewing a
large-sized dress hook on the stays, not q
big stay hook, which might show, but
just an ordinary one. Every skirt has an
eye which fastens on to it and renders
moving impossible. Possibly some reader
would like the dimensions for the foun-
dation skirt of a good French dress. !
think you will find that it hangs we'll.
The front is % inches at the hem, and
diminishes to inches at the waist.
There is only one side gore at each side,
d inches at the hem, 16 inches at the
top. The back is straight and 81 inches
wide.-MaI and Esprsss.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
WOMAN'S WORLD.
PLEASANT LITERATURE FOR
FEMININE READERS.
SIMPLICITY THE STYLE.

It may be interesting as we'll as profta-
BILE to the young ladies who have limited
means to dress on to know that the COM
ing queens of society make study of
simplicity. Not particle of jewelry is
worn, and even the bellies eschew every
ornament but a string of pearls. In the
hair aigrettes half wreaths of lily of the
valley or white violets are often seen and
occasionally small side combs bound with
carved silver or gold hold the hair in
place. A girl who prides herself on her
good taste would as soon wear a girdle
and chatelaine pendants with evening
dress as a bracelet or earrings. Gauze is
the regulation fabric for her dress and
ribbon bows or garlands of flowers the
only garniture permitted. Washington
Star.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
ONYX and AMETHYST, Alexandrite and

onyx and amethyst, Alexandrite and
moonstone, garnet and sapphire, and all
the wondrous family of gems that mean
so much in color, and delight so the
artistic or poetical mind.
Another bracelet which also had its
birth in India is lucky to wear because it
is made of iron; but unless you had it in
your hand and knew what you were to
look for, you would never be CONSCIOUS
that such an unromantic material was used
for it. It is entirely overlaid with gold,
which on the other side is smooth, and
on the upper is etched out in the finest
way possible, after curious design of
flowers and birds, giving the effect of a
gold band heavily enameled in black; on
the top medallion outline is achieved,
and engraved on this, in the most in
tricate manner, is one of the thousand
blessed names of Allah. This bracelet
was submitted to jeweler to be made
smaller, but he said it was impossible for
him to do it, as it might be necessary to
pass it through the fire, and the etching
once injured or defaced, there was no
one in this country who could restore it
TO its original condition:
If you haven't an Indian bracelet, then
get one such as is worn by the Chinese
women. The lady of the higher classes
wears one of gold, the next grade OF
silver and the next of iron; in pattern
they do not differ, being twist of the
metal that can be slipped over the hand
that is, not a complete circle. The
Chinese ladies are far-sighted in possess
ing these bracelets, for whatever the ma
terial may be, it is real and solid.
Whenever Madame Chinois gets little
hard up she doesn't create racket in the
establishment trying to get a little more
than her usual allowance from monsieur,
nor does she borrow from her women
friends, or play against her luck at poker;
not she! She simply marches off to the
place where they make the money, takes
off her bracelet, throws it in the scales,
and the obIging man heaps up the other
side with money unit. the weight of the
bracelet is reached; it is worth exactly
what it weighs in the money of the
realm, either in gold or silver.-NsW
York Sun.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
The Mackerel Industry.

The habits of fish, says the San Fran
cisco Chronicle, are not perfectly known
to naturalists. For instance they have
never been able to determine where the
mackerel passes the winter. Some writers
have asserted that it goes, as soon as the
cold weather commences, to the coast
of Greenland, enters the bays, and
plugging its head into the mud, remains
in that position, with tail in the air, till
revivifed by the spring sunshine. Then
it goes south seeking spawning grounds,
following the coasts Of Europe and
America, especially the latter, guided
probably by the Gulf stream. Arriving
on the coast of Europe the schools
separate, swarming about the coasts OF
Great Britain and Norway. entering the
Baltic or seeking the bays of the French
coast. In France it is usually caught by
trailing hooks or drifting nets. When
fresh, it is the favorite fish after the
sole, and certain other kinds that are
less common. Being found everywhere
in the north of France in abundance and
at low price in the spring. and being
by no means rare thenceforward till the
first of the following January, it is in less
repute among the rich on this account,
and even among those ofmoderate means
stales by repetition. The fishermen of
the Norman and Breton coasts cross into
the Irish sea in search of this precious
fish. Salt mackerel is held in a certain
estimation by Americans. At Dieppe
and Fecamp, in France, the mackerel is
prepared with oil in a manner that
renders it almost as delicate as the
sardino. From its intestines the ancient
Romans prepared brine, of bad odor,
naturally, and Of taste that moderns
would find absolutely disgusting, which,
nevertheless. they held in high esteem. -
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
A FEMALE PAWNBRoKER.

There is woman up in West Fifty
fourth street who does athriving busi-
asss in the sale and exchange of what she
calls ladies' miscellany. Party dresses,
street suits and wraps, tea-gowns, furs,
hats, bonnets, shoes and silk underwear
are brought to her by ladies' maids and
sold for o song. The owner may be 60
ing in mourning, going abroad, or in such
straitened circumstances as to regard a
few dollars as a fortune. Brand-new
gowns and bonnets are daily received
from ladies who arc penniless. They
have unlimited credit, but to get spot
cash orders are sent to the modiste, and
as soon as filled their garments are dis
posed of to the female Fagin for tenth of
their cost. Legitimate sales of second
hand, slightly worn clothing are made by
economical women, who receive an extra
dollar or two for the waist-band or bon
net-lining bearing the name of some good
house. Nine-tenths of the sellers are
carriage people, and of these sixty per
cent. demand spot cash. The rest are
content to give wrap in exchange for a
yard of good lace, carved fan or some
such confection as manicure tray, bon
bonniere or viniegrette. For a sealskin
wrap an old cabinet has been accepted.
Quantities of gloves, slippers and shoes
are almost given away, and so ignorant
of value are the patrons of this ''miscel-
lany" that jewels watches and shell goods
are bought by the house at q profit Of
from 200 to 800 per cent. The buyers
for the most part are actresses. They
are capital judges of fabrics, they buy
closely, and when the garments are re-
made get lot of good out of thcm.-
Neu York World.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
WHAT IT COSTS.

The actual amount Of malt liquors con
sumed In 1888 was 767. 5S7, ,056 gallons. Ths
includes not quite 5000, 600 gallons OF I'M.
price TO the retailer is rather above than be-
low twenty cents per gallon. At twenty
cents the cost to the dealers would be $l53,;;
517,411. The retailers get an average q
sixty cents per gallon, which makes the c9Sk
TO the consumers $3.50, So, 233 which the
American people spend annually for malt iq
uor. principally beer. The most careful es
innate puts the cost of wine to the consumer
at sT2, $40, 1876, and of distilled spirits STD.
9sS,s6O. This gives us grand total OF $slS,'
A9,129, nearly 81, ,0OO, ,0OO, ,OC, spent Annually
for Il yuor by the people af the United States
Catholic Citizen.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19

The late Thomas Parker, of Washing
ton, became so attached to cane, which
he had carried for years, that he kept it
in bed with him during his illness, and
before he died expressed wish that the
favorite stick be buried with him. His
wish was carried out, the cane being put
in the coffin.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19
A VALENTINE.

II only I might sing
Like birds in spring
Robin, or thrush, or wren,
In grove or glen.
II only I might suit
To harp or lutte,
To chime in tender time
Some touching rhyme
Then I'd not hope in vain
Thine ear to gain;
But now-I halt quail
Ahi must fail?
So small my skill to plead
Ny earnest need,
Love-loveis all the plea
! bring to thee.
Scollard, in the Century.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-02-19

There are upward of 10000 profes'
sional beggars In New York.
The Lamar register., 1890-06-14
Notice for Publication.

Land Once At Lamar, Coo
Jane 4fh lha0,
Notic- is hereby given that the sollo~ius nam
ed se,tlsr has Sled police Of LIS int 9iou to
MAKE iral prof ia support q his Claim, aud
that said prtnf sill be made before the register
aud receiver Lamar, Got!. oa Jaly u. ie9
via. Mo-ton Strain. II. E. NoS-s9, for ties e
sac 3 towuship -. range 50
lie names ne following witnesses e prove his
continuous residence upoR aud cult yaiiuu OF,
aid land, via: Joh1 ". OathOase, ID Leath-
erman, Samuel Parks and NJ. L. Conway. all
OF Lamar. Colo. -, 49,
Sue Eu- ma Ware, Ii. f, No. 500, for he = IL
Of n. e. - Of sec 81, township 4, rpuse a.
She IA mos the following wituesscs to pr4Ve
her continuous rc.idcuee upca, and euitirflisvi
Of said land via; v. A. Leennci. .iaes stert-
-eusou. Morton Stnu1, Joan IS Uuia"sfe-
William Il. hirSnsu l. hersey speciady n1fs-
he'd. an Il Lamar -g.o-
Also before Jas. X. pSugh;g, jadse ani aatias
clerk OF tue court 81 frowcrs soauty. at i,ainar,
Colo. on Jug 18th, lSV, Carrie LAC ~, y. =.
No 4iid. for the n. O. : sec' =, township 20. :
range 70 v.
sac names the following witnesses "a prove
her eontiauols residence up9I ani ealnvati'.a 81
I'd lani. vits US1rse ia l. john ". hcieN :.
N. Arthdr steele. and Niili1us ?. Jasaas, a. I
OF LAnar 2. o., Pru~vr- cyaAty. COLORADO
{. y. FORD,
$50 REGISTER.