Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1890-04-11
ice We will remember Ain Mellahol

noon that an hours ride brings us TO our
camp near another spring much less beau
tiful Along the road we have found many
terebinths which look like oaks they are
a kind Of acacia, with a grape fruit Weld
ing oil when ripe a beautiful tree Abra
hams oak at Hebron is a terebiuth have
ridden ahead as | do often, agonizing poor
mother who trembles for my life. While
waiting under a tree, in a patch of blue
iris lilies, which pick, for the first time
am accosted by one Of two men whom
have seen coming along the trail one is
mounted the word backshish has warned
me. The man is not insolent but asks for
money. | extend my hand, and in my turn
ask for gift, trick imported from Egypt,
making signs that | want him to give me
something The stupid fellow answers that
he has nothing 10 give he could pick
flower and offer it. While he dilly-dallies
the palanguin approaches, and the man has
TO leave empty handed. 1t would be a very
bad example to give anything under com
pulson or fear Thermometer 20 at
A. NJ. 20 at } P. NJ.
All along the road our men have picked
kind Of bush yellow tomato smelling like
mango, and have presented it to us for its
perfume. Our tents are surrounded with
Bedwins we have reached their villages at
the head of Lake Merone, along extensive
marshes which we have skirted, while hug
ging the hills. Some of those Bedwns are
paid TO guard u.s. They are a large, sturdy
race Of men they look like brigands, live
in tents partly made with long reeds have
many cattle, flocks, horses, camels cult
vate the plain, and are practically indie
pendent of all rule. We are at Ain Belata
april an the morning the plain is
covered with fog, murky atmosphere
which clears when the sun rises II is an
unhealthy spot Our learned Professor is
glad to leave it, yet we must skirt the
marshes for hours We are surrounded
with bean fields, lima beans, which BedSins
pull up as they are ripe. We cross these
fields with most cool impotence, and, |
have no doubt, are cursed for our doings
| We fully deserve it, Men and women all
ask for backshish. | order Selim to pay for
the damage done TO the crops He smiles
at my simplicity
We pass through Bedwin village com.
| posed of two lines of huts, half permanent
half wigwams, roofs of reeds covered with
coarse cloth the plain swarms with horses
and bufaloes mot the American buffalo, of
course) the village is a bee hive Of chill
dren who pursue US with their cries like
pack of wolves after a prey women at
their doors look at us as you would at a cir
| tuA men Keep hlubl we met many Oh lut
road, on horseback, with guns Travelling
as we do the country is perfectly safe. hut
it would not be for single travellers unpro
tected In a field surrounded with reeds Is
flock Of white storks or herons The
marshes are full Of game. We cross many
brooks running from the hills, meet many
caravans Of Druses going to or coming
from Tiberias. They are usually composed
Of man with his many wives and chill
dren. The whole family seems 20 he there.
on horses or donkeys, on foot, taking turns
for riding ; some Of the ladies are young
good looking, unveiled. dressed in red aud
white the babies nestle in their mothers
arms. Surrounded with the country verd-
ure the scene is very picturesque. The
| oldest women are hags. They are quite
friendly, and could we converse we should
exchange compliments.
So we 20 for hours, from village to vii
lage. from spring to spring from one Bedwin
scene to another, on roads alternately stony
or marshy, till we reach the torrent
Hasbyah, which runs from the western
foot Of Hermon, drains that slope, and is
one of the three main sources of the Jordan. /
We cross it on an old Roman bridge, with.
out any guards between it aud the preci
pice the river bed or banks are full of I
oleanders in full bloom we enter a region |
of rocky, rough paths, up aud down, till !
Tell-el Kddy, the hill Of the judge, the hill I
of DAN is reached, above another source
of the Jordan, which bubbles silently out of ]
the stones under grove of wild fig trees,
and becomes Immediately a noisy torrent |
Other springs and brooks Join 1t, and near
one of them, under an immense terebinth, /
surrounded with Mussulman cemetery, |
we stop for lunch We are tired, but the 1
scenery is so attractive, the waters so pure !
and limpid that we are soon ready to enjoy |
our surroundings, pick more tiny black /
shells fish up more stones, climb the plateau |
on which stood the city of Dan. Mother is !
in high state of enjoyment, the Professor /
roams everywhere 1t is land flowing /
with natural wealth. and with most scanty (.
population. Grass does not grow where |
Turk has camped" is an old saying.
| have omitted a hundred haps and mis- /,
haps to the palanquin aud its occupant |
there have been numerous fights with the |
stupid donkeyman, who from time 10 time, !
falls in disgrace, is dismissed, then treated /
too well The two palanquin men, helped |
by Selim and Ahbed, are endowed with a |
patience beyond computation. Our willy I
leader most of the time rides quarter Of & !
mile ahead, and thus escapes most Of the |
ordeals.
1t is short ride from Dan to our camp |
in Banias the old Philippi Cesarea, hear |
the third main source of the Jordan, issu.
ing at the very southern extremity of Her !
mon We have climbed up a forest of oaks, !
terebinths, hollies, and other trees scattered (
between rocks with many springs. then ]
gone down in the hollow or basin with its I
rushing waters. We have now seen the !
sources of the holy river they have no /
more mystery for our curiosity. Mount |
l..
into rain or snow, and most of its waters |
run to form the Jordan, which enters Lake !
Merone, receives scores of petty springs |
rushes to Lake Genesareth, as the Rhone in i
Geneva lake, from which it resumes its zig !
gag course TO the Dead Sea.
Our camp is in a field of olive trees. |
While madame rests get a native guide, |
with whom l visit the springs, the grottO, |
and temple dedicated to god Pan by the |
Greeks; many remnants of Roman times,
an old tower, bridge over a ravine, the |
mills of the natives, the three shops of the !
village full of comely, healthy maidens, a
big paved public place with giant tere-
binth. A score of girls with chill
dren and babes have gathered round moth |
er's palanquin /; she has distributed pennies |
to them all reap the penalty every
child, every grown-up female asks me for !
I
of them her price is too high, besides
never know if l buy silver or common
metal then l ask them for backshish for
myself they laugh and l go on. Our
waiter has become lazy under our tent
carpets we have remnants of animals
manure rubbing has become necessary.
Our Ahbed has been sick. have grave.
ly examined his mouth and tongue full of
ulcers have ordered dose of sacara Sc
grada, Mexican purgative bought in Col
orado mother has big bottle next morn
ing dose sedlitz powders and fasting for
"a hours. Our Selim has chewed a couple
of quinine pills and found them very bitter,
so we are doctors poor, sickly man
comes and asks for medicine /; we give
what we have, good purge for better or
for worse it will not kill him. When you
travel in this land provide yourself with a
small medicine chest, Thermometer go
at 6 r. NJ
The PuIPiI and the stage.
NJ Shrout nagtor limited Rrathrpn