Telegram-herald., 1890-10-27
AFOOT IN SCOTLAND
Grand strathglass A2lons the Gram
Peaks oE the North.
PrgE clu, TALL HrcE AID gscUIlR
aAsAsed "a Face .~e GF.ss t2 His a.ss
1hst Dia $50 esea - ses .zd fssl-
hlgalAEa Gsris 4sd asa1y
flaKeA h.tEsa BAiKHs.

lcopyTsxhssd sal
SrKkEHGLAss. scotland, sept. IS, 1890.
1t gAs a. earnest welcome that came
70 nss from the inaselefs ~ TIE sweet
Old lonely manss ef Faknskyle IN the
heart OF grand strsthgiass among the
grim peaks OF Northern Scotland.
Though the night MAS already falling
Ike dark wing from the erags as ~e
descended from the stsge-oo4ch, the
situation and surrounding OF the Manse
could be vaguely dlsoerned. The great
strath stretched east and west for hall
3 days journey in front. The ryer
Glass, from whence SuathglAss derives
its name, swept by the very edge of the
coach road beside Us with strong, even
flow, and sort Of half roar and song
over us level though rocky bed. Be
hind, 10 the north, perhaps dozen
acres Of land, part OF which belonged
10 the ManSe, WAS formed IN a sort OF
horseshoe pocket, or dell, behind
which rose tue mountsins 10 lofty
heights, and down whose rough old
sides, through tiny burns, came melo-
dious rllls, which here and there, be-
meath the road, leaped and tumbled
into the Glass below. Larches grim,
tall and wraith-like in the shadows
half Ind the manse and its low stone
out-buildings; and the lights streaming
through the great doors and windows,
flung fantastic shadow-scenes of waving
larch and happy children along the
walks OF gravel white as snow.
There in the great door were the
household members, all gathered for
the coming of their head and the stran-
ger. The guidwife first, fine and tall /,
grand in the physique of the old Morse
race from which she sprang, gave Us
gentle, earnest greeting. Then came
the minister's assistant, pure Gael,
tall, huge and angular, but with man
hood IN his face and grasp in his hand
which did one good to see and feel.
Then, two domestics, shy, voiceless
Highland girls, who knew little Of
English but much of everyday duty.
These and the haxen- haired BARNS IN
every attitude and place beamed kind
ness and welcome. Soon supper is
served in the roouy dining room, of
the great hall. This room also answers
for the two clerics' study aud library.
In the few minutes intervening between
our arrival and the meal the five barns
ebbulant with life and joyousness have
bade the stranger good night and are
hushed IN slumber. The ministers $ as
slstant says grace with that honesty of
faith and feeling that thrills 10 one S
heart As genuine blessing. The meal ,
modest enough in itself, vet delicious
IN ltssnowy scones, crisp bacon, fresh
laid eggs, and honest Highland cream
and butter, is gwen the sparkling zest
or perfect hospitality desold of often
slye protestatOn, and that sweetest of
all converse issuing from pure hearts,
healthful bOdlesa and cultured intellects;
and is all too short after an bour's du-
ration. Then the guidwfe excuses
herself for bit; the shy domestics en-
ter and remove the cloth and belong
ings; and then, oh, horror TO the super
sensitive! some good old honest High
land pipes, black as the night behind
the window-panes are brought; and IN
the "auld reekle" of their rings and
wreaths two hours come and 60 in talk
and tales of the North SO swiftly that
10 o'clock has come, and the cloth is
again laid by the silent handmaids, be-
before we are aware. Then the guild
wife returns and "porridgc." hot,
steaming hot, with pints and plnts
of cream are served. This disposed
the shy maidens return, each with a
book IN her hand. They seat them
selves, and | am handed asinilar book
Its title is, "The Scottish Psalter," be-
ing "The Psalms in Metre, with the
Paraphrases, and a Selection of the
Prose Psalms" The book is cut entire
ly through the contents, between the
covers. the "Sol-Fa" system OF notes
being printed at the top, and the para
phrases beneath. Suddenly to me
strange tbrenody filed the room. Five
trebel voices had broken forth into a
most impressive chant:
KeyG.
m:-lr:d e im:-ir:t. DIR | 81 etc.
The heavens declare the glory Of !