Savannah courier. (Savannah, Tenn.) 1885-1979, 1890-05-29
SAN JUAN.
A Typical Indian Pueblo I'm New
Mexico-Its Ancient Gus
tOms-PictuesGue and
Otherwise.

romance and living interest," where Duii-hGhls
and ruins are plentiful. Why seek Italy for
soft skies! those Of New Mexico are as blue
and changeless, and in that land of the setting
sun. the silent snow-covcred mountains rival
the Alps for majestic beauty. And no less
lovely are the green valleys inhabited by
picturesque people (the Pueblo Indians) who
now live amicably near their once bitter foes,
the Mexicans, and, alas for poor Lo! their
conquerors.
The traveller should not forego trip
through the Rio Grande valley. Dozens Of
Indian villages are grouped near the foothills
and in that high, clear atmosphere can be
seen for miles. Pueblo del San Juan is one
of the most striking the houses are built on
the plan of all these pueblos like steps, one
above another. The entrace to these ''casas"
is hole in the roof and ladder inside, It's
an ancient custom, and one with a practical
side to it, for in the old days when domestic
wars, between this race and the Spainards,
blotted the page of New Mexico's early his
tory, the Indians had fondness for killing
Franciscan monks, Who were brought over
to cvilize them, and the Spanards retaliated
by frequently surprising them in the night,
and in this way hundreds were massacred and
whole towns wiped out of existence. Then
the Indians hit on an idea which, when car
ried out, made them practically invincible.
They built their houses without doors or vim
dows, the walls being very thick and of mud
and naught but the hole in the roof to let in
the light of the day. All this has been told
before, but it strikes the observer anew, what
thoroughly good plan Of defense it was fol
a primitive people, who usually do every
| thing backward.
| But to see ore of these towns al its bes
and to observe the peculiarities of its resi-
dents, it should be visited on one Of the feas
days-Corpus Christi, or the birthday Of thei
Patron Saint-when the elaborate ceremonies
the gay colors, the glitter of tinse fills tn,
heart Of these savage children with joy; ane
If Bishop and priest or two grace the occas
ion, their cup Of happiness isfull' for such re
ligion as they have is due to the untlring Ell
forts OF the good Catholic Priests who spenc
their lives trying to civilize these untamet
children Of Nature.
! once had the good fortune TO be in Sal
Juan with two other Americans at public
rejoicing; none other than the unvaing o
a gilt virgin First, there was procession
gorgeous and solemn, the Bishop at the head
dazzling in his rich garments, two Priest
held his scarlet train; then came the Jesse
lights. then all the braves headed by thei
Chief, dressed in paint and beads withou
number, with countless feathers in their hair
and all carrying rifles. Next came the "mu
chachos" little boys) clad in naught but thei
skin and a string of beads, and last, dozens o
long Mexican ours, yelping excitediy
The Bishop, as he uod on the rose-leave
scattered in his path, chanted from book
and the braves responses, gruf and unmusi
cal, were lost in the uproar made by the bras
band from Santa Fc.
The squaws took no active part in the cele
bration, save that Of being inspectors-whicf
they were in situation TO be-for they
swarmed the housetops, animated and smil
ing, and as each one espied her cspecia
brave gutteral grunts Of satisfied pride wer'
heard They too, had on their gala attire
the newest of moccasins and leggins, the gay
est of short skirts and the inevitable blanke
around their shoulders, Of brightest color'
and intricate pattern. These women are no
pretty, not even good-looking; they are coarse
and repukive, though compared to the Yuma
Indians of California, they are beauties; on,
good point about them is their hands anc
feet, which are invariably small and beaut
fully shaped.
When the procession had made the Circuit
ofthe Plaza twice, all gathered around tht
statue. which was only half yelled, the Bishor
made neat little speech in Spanish, then the
chief gave the signal 10 fire and fire they did
one salute after the other. The chief Of this
noble band, as he urged his 'bucks' to Shoot
by example and the most discordant yeils
was figure not soon to be forgotten, dressed
in wonderful fusion of civilized and savage
fashions combined. "Firewater" was plenti'
full and disappeared in alarming quantities
and one by one they succumhed and were led
off To their cacas-vanquished.
An eccentric Prussian has made his home
near this town for 20 years, studying the peo'
pie. He has tried landscape gardening in
this arid, grass-less land, with no small sue
cess; irrigation as all that is necessary to
grow anything. The contrast is great be-
tween his neat little villa, with its rich carpets
fine pictures and statuary, to the mud houses
Of his neighbor, mud dishes, mud everything
though their houses and utensils do not lacl
decoration; they decorate with startling sue
cess-headless birds, and tailless animals o
all kinds disport themselves on their waite
jars.
As we take our way to Chamita Qittl'
charmet), the station and P. o. Of San Juan
and talking over the events Of the day, i
leads us to speculate on the threadbare In
dian Problem, Poor Lo! trifing, lazy, teacher
Gus and thieving, what is to become Of him
A national dead-beat on Uucle Sans hands
but is not the problem solving itself? "rh'
survival of the httest" is determining thei
fate-gradual extinction is settling the vexe'
question. In few years they will not b,
seen around the depots selling nalf-ripe apri
cots and mushy raspberries; the braves vii
no, gallop wildly across the plains on thri
broncos bareheaded and their gay blanket