The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-07-27
NEWS OF THE FAIRER SEX.
OF SPECIAL INTEREST TO ITS OWN
MEMBERS
Whit Women Wear and DO, in General
and In Particular. for Pleasure and
Front, for Themselves and for Others.
SUMMER FASHIONS ABROAD.

SUMMER FASHIONS ABROAD.
Now that the preparations and anticipations
for the race for the Grand Prix." which marks
tho end of tho season in Paris. and for the As
cot. the seasons elimination IN London, have
crystallized into reality and perfection: now
that generous June has flung her rose wreaths
down upon tho breast Of July lilies AMI van
ishod In fragrance, and tho fashionable world
has finished It's annual fitting from the haunts
Of millincrs and mantua makers to the soa-
shore and mountains there promises to be lit
tie change In modes. and styles will remain
stationary for a brief but restful porod
In considering the seasons fantasies and
vagaries as expressed in popular fashions it
would seem that their most salient features
had been copied or initiated from distinct
and widely separated periods in history. tho
time OF the Valos in tho sixteonthl century.
the Tudors, earlier still. and tho restoration
t1S15 to 1S30. The close-ltting dresses. with
long pointed waists and full sleeves sashed
and high on the shoulder, the rufIs. and the
high-wired rolling collars. may all 10 traced to
the court OF Henry III. and his famous Italian
Queen, Marie de Medics. The square-cut
flarinG collars. huge soeves. stinly boned bod
ices, nnnaturaly long and slender at the waist.
Hans Holben painted on his fair Tudor court
ladies' centuries ngo. The ppnted turned
luxuriant picturesQueness characteristic OF
many midsummer gowns. Charles LIS French
Queen introduced to the English court before
the Reformation. and to the epoch OF the Res
toration We owe tho short waists gathered
bodices and Wristbands. the insertion and
embroidery round the skirts, and the simply
gathered Stoves. less formal than the Valois.
less splendid than the Tudors.
atril fna IF ba
costuminR us passed in revlow are the exquisite
simplicity in style. tho length OF the dresses.
the fulness aud length OF the sleeves, and the
richness of the materials employed. This APP
parent simplicity is difficult OF attainment and
costly indeed. as mono but flrst-class houses
perfection OF fit and finish. and freedom from
vulgar eXaggeration which gentility demands
ns OF m9des beionSpS eT 1o d ie pera 1
constitute the novelty of many gowns. but may
be ATTEMPTED only by those OF most correct
ssbimS 10 rldISSio"s 10 Almost al ' nSW
ground in tho back. where they are fully
plated, but very fiat. and arc either quite plain
or slightly d[9ped IN front, some ne q them have
are finished of with ruchlngs., particularly if
they are of silk while others still are cut UP in
OF ribbon or the material itself, il thin, caught
UP IN festoons with rosettes. Flounces of lace
fasGionsbIe and l. ali sorts Of light summer
fabrics, including thin silk. are made UP with
them . either slightly gathered or plated fiat
finish for skirts OF heavier material.
DESPITE the many propheces there is as. re:
nanlers and draperles, though their advent |
t Ge snsy Ths 9s at eH % on
costly fabrics. for, not only Is their ,maGnd-
breadths in many instances entirely unre- |
lteyed 10y decoration Of any kind but so little
material is required for q dress in tho extreme |
means may afford it
The important feature of the dress is in
sleeves OF q different material from the dress
still prevails, shut slight change in their
being allowed to puff up simply around the |
armhole, above the shoulder line. they are
Stitches. or tho painSs are carried half way Tag
up the shoulder seams and fastened with
Of y9et Pungs and d, Ts and
are made with silk sleeves to suit the ilnts
pique sleeves. rising high on the shoulders;
black silk costumes have sleeves OF white en-
ishci with black lace sleeves; while most striK-
ing OF al are the black fo9laEds strewn with
sleeves covered with black lace.
Bodices are so infinite and intricate that
words can convey lttlo idea OF thoir character
INFLATED concerning their tashtoninG A IA
yo1,te fancy "a Is to cut down the front to the
settle or to fold it Ichu-IiEe from the side
tnS S6sn is1 q" tho
ed fichus, or the chemisette OF gau2e. tulle. or
crepe de isse; not only IN white but IN other,
nauve are the favorites. Sometimes the two
ire combined. tho s,traw-cQlored tulle being
placed over mauve or lilac. while blue and red
are combined in the same way.
The coIlarette is the pet novelty among the
II themselves. give grace aud charm 10 the
simplest costume, II IS universally becoming:
rostike lace. enhancing tho delicate lowell
less Of youthful bloom or sofening the out
ines Of mature beauty. Ths new new feather col.
With ribbons that hang down with long bows
md ends and is worn In white or light coIors
n black with o touch OF metallic lustre. as dis
,layed by cocks p!ulnes; Those in tulIe or
o,dine tho material double and then poatina
t TOR the thinner kinds, while tho coarscr
n,eshol. nets are plated single; border
thTeadine Of ioss silk They arc tied led
n the SAM, same way with ribbons. and
ollarctle, and It was the frill Of plumage rather
nHn OF llEb tuuL cuEEleu OIL the palm oil VIC
DRY. Maize silk gowns had coarettes OF black
strich plumes and light green fouards wore ,
nished with frillS OF white feathers. A pale
lac costume had n ruff of cock g feathers of
he Same shade. and mRuve silk figured in
old, with sleeves OF tho same hue. had a run I
{ yollow tullo.
Tho high Nedlc collars are filed in ana rem 1
orod becoming by thcSn funny feather or fllmy {
lee rills. fastened tightly about the throat in :
ncient fashion. .
Among summer outdoor garments the ,
ensible and economical woman selects the :
raded jacket, which will outlive the popu- =
Irty OF the fanciful and bizarre little wraps
nd coats now 80 much worn. Capes still rank !
Ugh in popular regard from their convenience.
Ut the sleeyeless Jacket Is supplanting them
Paris. This garment. too IL easy of ADJUST
lent and does not crush and disarrange the I
Irge sleeves. A peculiar composite little gar. .
lent brought out among the other novelties =
n tho Grand PrN' was sleeveless Figaro =
9st OF white cloth. trimmed with gold braid. .
which Is attached II long flowing man 10 Of y
ue cashmere: which may DO allowed 10 hang y
sort OF Vatican draping behind. or 10 =
raped about the figure where IL covering is q
,qulred .
A gorgeous md RlitterinG jacket Of iawn u
9th, also brought ont mt tho great race for 4
hich cloak makers and milliners reserve their v
loicest and most startling ideas. had sleeves |;
imposed entirely OF silver and gold passamen- ~
RE blended together In IA curious manner, IL
hills thrpuUh the gold n 6Cilv nt,H