Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-06-15

breadth On each side, which is only just
a half ysRrd wide at the hem. These are
not goreld, but there is one dart in each
at the waist. Four inches back from the
front scam they are straight, and then
gathe1fed the rest of the width like the
back The fulIness at the back is held
by tvA 10 strings run in, one six inches
fromfthe waist, one thirteen. The whole
obje& is to give the effect of plainness.
TheiE hens are stiffly lined, horse hair
CLOTH being used for the purpose, so that
though so narrow they do not cling.
7fhe distinguis hing feature then OF all
dresses, whether tailor made or other
Wise, is to have the necessary plaits and
fhllness arranged to lie as CT sely sGA
sfimply as possible. In accordance with
this main idea dress skirts are made,
Though varying slightly IN detail and
Smethod of plating. Walking dresses
fare seen with one large box plat forming
Sthe entire front, with smaller ones on
feither side, the back being mounted in
Sgathers of fiat box plaits. The
Sbeauty of these plated skirts all de-
tpends on the way they are fastened. II
fastened by tapes so the fastenings
! show the skirt is failure and can only
\ be made presentable by entire remodel
l ing. Plalts should be sewed firmly to
the cambria foundation the whole length
from waist to hem on the under edge.
If tapes are used they should be stitched
firmly all round, so that no wind or ex-
ercise will put them out of place. Near
~ every one prefers, however, to have
the plaits sewed down. In this way the
straight, sharp folds last for months.
To the home dressmaker the skirt of
simplicity may be q snare, but what
shall be said of the modern bodice
The fifteen puzzle, pigs in clover, and
puzzliug devices in general seem easy of
solution, when one of the uninitiated
would solve the mystery how the woman
got inside the dress. Confessed, the en-
wrapping gowns are very pretty when the
wearer has good form, and the sir
of mystery as to how they are made to
fit and where they open is by no means
least upon the list of charms. The way
of dressmakers to secure plastic fit in
bodices that are without back pieces,
darts or Sides seams may appear plain
until the inexperienced attempt to fol-
low it.
The dressmakers take soft goods and
cloths and stretch them over the lining
and have them fastened with hooks on
one snoutder ana over one slQe unQer the
arm. These oorsages are joined to the
skirts with bias Lelts Of velvet or of the
same goods, pointed in front and ending
with rosette in the back. Various ways
are used to dispense with darts; the stuff
may be gathered into the belt. This
leaves the shoulders and chest perfectly
smooth. Then the stuff may be gath
cred at the middle of the chest and all
the rest of the bodice left smooth. An
other way is to allow the stuff TO drape
slightly from the shoulders over the chest
down to the small of the waist. All these
novel ways of making bodices apply only
TO good but slight figures. In fact.
dressmakers say that women for present
fashions should not be too full ohssted;
they say that as il to be or not TO be was
an effect of the will. OF course q woman
can have high or sloping shoulders, full
or narrow chest, broad hips or no hips
just as the exigencies of fashion demand
and the caprice of the modiste dictates.
After passing through the various
historic periods interpreted with
classic "reminiscences, fashion has
settled upon hundred years