New-York tribune., 1890-06-04


supplying schools and churches. In ChiH hnr tiu,r
work has not been nterfercd with by et'eI
Church State. In Conception they nav
chapel with preaching in Spanish and a nouTisn1 ndn
ing school. with eight foreign teachers ana w
pupils. In Santiago they have college VI & on
cellent rank, with 200 students, among W VIII 1
are the daughters of the President o, M ann, avn
other prominent men. At Coqulmho theN OWL "
church. parsonage and school. At Serena nv
have another school which was opened laSt HTni, n
At Iquique, where the Rev. j.. j. Ghlllan1 nns nns
been stationed for six years. they own I1in'
chapel and have a school with 200 scn scnoais,
This work in Chilian towns is conducted wl,noIio
moestation from either Government or Pcopnd
and is directly encouraged by the President al"
men in public life. -.
In Peru similar missions were undcriakgrn roro az
the outbreal X Of the war with Cmll: Inrl. ta
was large feet of merchant vessels at me LOUIE
Islands. one of the chief guano deposits. anu
work was begun there. but had to be dsc1n7 on
tinued when the Chilian cruisers dlSpcrsed .'
vessels At Lima the missionaries made Il-
efrcctual efforts TO organize Protestant conErc-
cation, and finally abandoned the held Tor mn.
Mr., Penzottis recent experience demonstrates nv ,Hc
difficulty Of overcoming religious blgotrX III 'hIH
city of Pizarro and the 1nquisition There are
two Protestant churches in Calao ana Lima
with services in English. but preaching IN opan,
sh and the opening Of Protestant schools are
most strenuously resisted II is the spirit oi
mediacvalism still coloring the life OF the present
SURF.BATHING AND WAR REMlNlSCEN'tH'
II is now the afternoon hour for the hathing
trains Surely there will he nothing in the rde
| 70 Chorllos to divert ones thoughts of the Lima
of to-day. There are nine or ten cars hicd
with men. women and children. who are gong
| for dip in the sea On the American al"
English railways there are similar trains desIlh'u
| for the surf baths at Caao and the Point
| Sea-bathing is the fashionable medical preScrlp
tion nowadays for every i'll 70 which flesh Is
| heir. 4 theory has been started that IT Is
necessary to take these baths in order 10 sustain
| bodily vigor. Not that there Is anght ainiss
with the climate. Lima i'll that respect Is as
highly favored as Eden: as every Peruvian , en-
thusiast will tell you. But even Adam ana Eve
must have found perpetual summer and rainlcss
! Paradise slightly debilitatng. There is no winter
! i'll Peru and something is needed as SUBSTITUTE
| for tonic effect upon the human system SURF,
bathing according 10 the fashionable medical
] theory, is a mild touch Of winter and II pro
i NOTES physical reaction. II accomplishcs IN the
| course of year what is effected hy alternating
changes Of season in higher ATTITUDES. II serves
| to protect these lotos-catcrs OF Lima from the
| enervating influences Of perfect climate Ger
| talnly II is 4 touch of winter. The liumh"ld'
| current coming from the Antarctic lowers me
temperature Of the surf along the entire rainlcSs
coast The water at Callao and thorlllos IN the
warInest weather is colder than the surf al Coney
Island in October. 1t is a plunge. not into tcpid,
but into downright cold water which Is taken
here as a substitute for winter. Some
physicians have gone far aS 10 recommend
two snrf-baths a day for patients suffering
from languOr induced hv the delightful conditions
Of existence at Lima. Fashion has sanctioned the
practice of frequent surf-bathing. The trains are
! filed every afternoon with the wealth and fash
! ion of Lima.
BIT what station is this at which tie train
! draws up in lis progress seward? i j. Mira
! flores the scene of the last stand made bv the
Peruvian army in defence Of Lima. l'ciore the
war II w"s one Of the most beautiful suburbs.
where wealthy merchants owned fine country
estates. After the battle il was pilaccd AMI
burned, and from the dcsoaton end rlln brought
on that fatelul day II has never recovered. II
was on the hillsldeS above the station That the
campaign fought for the possession Of the manure
beds of the ranless coast was brought 70 an end
| The ChillanS. acquiring complete command Of the
after the capture Of the Huascar. had sent am
army of 81. 0o0 men 10 PSco and Curayoco alt"r
the conquest Of Tarapaca and Tacna. ONLY 4n in
fcrlor force Of dishcartened Pcruyiars contl be
rallied against them After MirnforcS. Lima VS.
at the mercy Of the invaders, and was only saved
from destruction like brand ont Of III" burning
by the brave and determined efforts o Tie foreign
residents.
B>TTLEFIELDs AND RUINs.
This. too, is Chorillos. once an obscure fishing
village, with singularly bold and varied coast
scenery. and afterwarl the fayorite watering place
of Lima where the wcalthicst families passed The
summers and where fortunes were won and los
by gaming The hardest fighting Of the fierce
battle which decided the fate of the capital was
on the crest OF the MORO overlooking the bath
houses. The Chilians. advancing from Lima and
storming a long line Of defensive WORKS, had hr'n
| held at bay for a few hours here and then were
left in possession Of the field. thorloS. with ii>
seaside hotels and summer cottages. was plum
dered and burned 70 the ground. At least 5000
Peruvian soldiers were killed on these TWO battle
fields. and about 800 hlllIus treat disparity
was shown in the lists Of the wounded. the thI.Hns
having many and the Pcruyians few I'm comparison
with the number killed Any one who has seen
the peculiar gcam in Chilian's eve when hc Is
quarrclng with an adversary understand, ~"
/ reason. In their battles with Peru they began
| by firing their guns and ended with whipping ont
their knives Il is within short distance of This
lf
! for the defence of Lima and shot down and
| massacrcd that crowds Of bathcrs now dlsp"rt
! themselves morning and afternoon. Chorll,s h1s
! been partly rebuilt. hut II has not rcpai"cl us
former prestige as the most fashionable plr.s ID"
resort OF the West Coast The charrcd ruins have
disappeared, but IFS prosperity has not been re-
/ stored The misiortuucS Of Peru culmnai"d ln
/ these two crushing defeats AZ ChOros and Mira
/ flores II was the second invasion of country
/ inhabited by ppOpl" naturally Industrious an"
! peaccable II an invasion aS disastrous IN rs
! results as PizarrOs campaign against the subject
! races Of the lnCas.
Ten miles south Of Chorillos are the ruins Of an
! older civilization than Pizarros-thc work Of the
| same wonderful builders whose aqucducis roads
| villages and temples are found throughout Perm.
| The Temple Of Pochacamac IN the IMrln Valley -
| now. hardly disiinguishable from The fuS>Octs Of
| sand which are found everywhere along the ram
| less coast. Twenty years ago II was possible -
trace the outlines Of the palace, the Temple Of The
| Sun, public squares, broad aycnuos and ihc
| foundations If ancient houses. and also 10 explore
the tombs Of princes and people. The scpnlchcs
| have been opened and plundcrcd. the yellow saHd
has accumulated on the bleak hillside and the cV-
| tcnsivc remains Of thc aboriginal city. with lis
Terraces are now almost buried ont Of sight and
remembrance The ruins Of the temple itsclf i"Im
! the chief projection above the desert level lAkr
| the mounds the northern coast near lruNll"
| on the plain Of Chimu. this temple represents the
! industry Of primitive coast race which WAS con
quercd by the Incas AT least a century before the
appearance Of Pi7arrO. The Chllan armies in tier
| march from Lurn - Chorillos passed The runs
Of cities built both by the conquered coast nation
! and by the victoriOus Incas: they followed in the
| track of Pizarro and they left behind them
blackcncd heaps where had stood the coast resorts
and suburbs Of Lima. So history has repeated
| itself in this wonderful Valley of the Rimac.
! J. ~ +.