New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-09
THE FASHIONS.
TAILOR MADE GOWNS AND COATS.

English tlil0rs are making mp cloths In pale
shado,yy coors for spring coats. There are delicate
erayish tnts Of blue, lichcn hued greens and lght
hcliotrope shown In these coats, besides the dark
aud neutral shades. which will always be- popular.
The new coat, are noteworthy for their Increased
length and close cuirass like fit about the hps.
Large square corncred lapels are still used but a
single lapcl is more frequently and the entire
effect Of the new STYLES is more severe and simple
with possibly the single exception of the new fringe
bordcrcd coats which yokcs are outlined in brand
and wooen fringe. MI wrap and coat sleeves lie
main high on the shoulder. and are quite full at the
top. though the extremely full sleeve worn uutlhS
the winter Will not be generally used
An excellent model for spring is coat reaching
several inches below the hips This fits closely al
the back and around the hips, but Is not ht'cu To inc
waist in front This coat is made OF heotropc la'cu
cloth. finished with high standing cola', Sli.to
square corncrcd lapel and narrow cuilS coVcreu 9o
with gold ard black braid laid on IN pai'lIc' Hl'c''
The coat closes down the front with a fly ana J.,
bor,lercd above the 1y with narrow bahd oI son"
hraiding Another coat is in two shades OF iWen
cloth like tan and ccu giving in one piece tho
effect Of a close armOr fitting jacket oil tan H''cn'
down the front by tiny gold ball buttons over "","
is worn a sleeveless jacket OF ccrn cloth' p"'e" ="
show the tan cloth the entire length OF the lohU'
simple high tan sleeves with epauie'S Vi "'o ''
cloth finish the jacket.
Coats which are elaborate with braid are snow"
in military styles and old French patterns WIN
carnitnres Of frnges coat Of fine black clo'h III
length approaching the old pcplums' worn many
vca.- ago j, braided in black and gold BRAID III al
arahc, quc pattern, forming pointed YOKE VA "
front thi, being outlined by a pendant porucr VI
gold and black worsted fringe. border oil oi'o
covers the ny front the lower corners IN iroh' 'Ic
caboratey braided and the bottom OF the coat Is cSe
with fringe in black and gold The sleeves arc '''
at the forearm and finished with high epaulet' ie''n'
ing in "a point TO the elbow ANA edScd WIN "'"-
An cyoui,itc little coat Of ecru cloth. finished WIN
"A white vest fastened by the tineot GOLD puIUoh'' -
braided in gold braid from under the Epe'' E.N'!-
thc effect Of a second lapel Of gold braid 'oaU' III
u,ln lcbcu green cloth combined with wllF d'o
finished with silver or with copper buttons 'i'''"'
coats i'm dark shade, or delicate oprIhS ooi"'' '''
finished with rolled Pru,san collars ana one" WIZ"
straight bands Of bradius from inc l5"' '"0'''
across the front the left side
Tailor gown, no longer madc III OILY "''"
The. most delicate coors shown for spring 'uoe''
though refined women will conhno sn'h s"""' q"
,.,r,,,,, wear The rich shades Of violet, the egg
pi,nt purpc,. fine gray and drab brown SHADES ''o
all shown for street eowu-. lail"r' are '"'N'"7 "r
, p,r,tcr of c,mcl,hair, and light scr-cs a, well
A. faced cloths. Ncw gowns are maze VII" imp
round bodice. or i'm polona-e or iu princes sly ''
ruttou, arr. concealed in gowns rule, but huhU''
~ tiny gold copper or silver buttons are u'eu -
f-tcn the cor,age well aS To INNS" I'N''' anu
ornament th, sleeve on the outside seam. lhc'c
,r, i,.cd below the high pull. which is someti"e'
added Of velvet or some separate material 10 Pio
nominee the gisot effect of the sleeve
An c1oui,itc cloth gown OF gray with whtc J.
mad. with two long ,tup, Of gray in front 'imua'hs
box pl.ai. separated by panel oil SILVER p'"" y"
white similar braided panels are placed Oh c'..0'
side Fun drapcrcs Of white cloth finish 'l'o ~" .
AZ the back The bodice is of whit" '"t" h'''u
T., tl. H.l,rc ON the left side. and of gray on the
t,-trD mn
.trtiire -tyc \ girdlr II silver braid extend rom
or, under arm scam 20 the other. The hlsh 'i"'Ne-
,r. Of white Win a FUN pyramid Of gray l't III Al
On. .houlf,r and extended - sharp poiut at inc
elbow. The Greek effect so much u'rd J" 'r'IcN'
i, often a,ocutuatcd los border 81 braided van
dykc point, boz cloth 81 contrasting ''''' ""' ""''
braided with gold on velvet white with silver on
i.ncn green This diagonal effect 3, then continued
.e t.. -.rl,',cd waist. which, Zap, over 20 meet ia"
d1roull Grcct front
maker, aye making up for slight figure, simple.
ll! Dire, of China SILK in solid bia'" "f pure ""'r
for SIMMER afternoon gowns snd for general H"~''
,,r They are made VITA Straight fan SKIRTS. WINCH
AGO. ,,. .n,d with a hem and fun blouse. extending
below '.c waist under the SKIRT y To-" i'Il "l -
.l,.u or molfr. about i"" Ih.h'@ WIZ W." ,,, t'
3D.. Do ll,,n china silk OF -urah dl,r-r' dI.
made n thl. comfortable. simple manner Tor uA\c"7
'' -.a.pi. ,lc'.o,- are made mp iu lnc checks ana
stripe. and ilr Young l'd'"- M 'a',' ',,,, ,,d
iuc mixture 3D. me- ana TII', , cn"U.ot, are made
brighter lIir DOB. ''lre lI' ,.,..', Of velvet al
me iI3il '''" NJ -lt In accordion form. or in
rt,' ,,, , n,r,r,i vitl iuN,, old 800 The
Dr bop, Of IiI'cs intns if.m ',, np' widths ~
accordion hit. which lcq"r 'i-'. .,,p. nndrr
,'rt AN mad. If gro grain -lh- Iu"d WIN un'
-Ir-ia. md make vim " ti,n.4 YONG naiI AZ ME
b,,k. and II J., Ir0 plain AT the sides ANA 'front.'
-h' 10 -N"' ar - ,.t far black drc--r- has been