New-York tribune., 1890-08-31

of black velvet and patterned in varied ways with un
cut velvet in different colors-natura brown, Old oue
mode silvergray and other grounds and this mateilh
is confined in the gowns in which it is used to tho
sleeves, collars and slight garnure OF the front OF 'ho
skirt Cameshair cloths crossed with narrow bands
Of astrsihan striped with lines Of heavy kno'tea
threads are to be used similarly with plain cloth.
There are many pretty, SOFT wool cloths in natural
colors striped with shot threads in brilliant hue
called by importers "Longchamps suitings." These
intended to be made up with sleeves Of soft corded
silk. The "Bois de Boulogne suitiDgs' are shown
chiefly in mixtures In which shade of natural
gray, brown. or stone blue is the prevailing hue.
They imported with velvet accompanying them
IN dark harmOnizng hue for the sleeves ana couar'
The importation Of silk and velvet dyed TO harmonHe
exactly in color with the wool goods with which they
are to be used is feature OF the season ana VIII De
very gratifying TO ladies who have spent In THIS CITY
untold time after purchasing dress in shopping lor
silk Or velvet to match it, and who have been forced
at last to take something far from satisfactory Many
Of the new velvet sleeves embroidered this sea-
son, a change from the plain velvet sleeves so
much worn last summer. These are imported with
the collar worked and ready to be cut out Ihe pam
velvet silk sleeve is not new as the figured or
embroidered one
The s0ftness and exquisite sken texture OF the
new wool goods leaves nothing to be desired There
are lama cloths lighter in texture than the od-nme
cloths a. that namc but more loosely woven thin
camclsbair cloth and not unlike the tashon cloth OF
last season. Indoo sutngs are exqustely SOFT and
when figured are Ornamented with palm leaves and
other designs in raised wool like the figures seen ON
Turkish cloth and other goods Of oriental make.
Many woollen suitings are imported with borders
of embroidery and deep embroidered points for the top
of the sleeves with ostrich plumes set in the en-
brodery. Other borders set with band OF otter
uncurlcd asraIan running through the embroidery
a straight border below embroidery. wide net
work of knoted silk cords in the mixed ceors OF the
suitng IS another border that ends in close fringe
and is omamented by band of otter running over 1t.
A sutng in Henry the Fourth style is finished with
sashlngs In which pufs Of velvet ore set in long
pear shape. similar ornaments placed at the top
of the high sleeves calling to mind the familiar
slashcd dOubet Of the French King.
A season of ostrich feathers may be safely pre-
dicted for winter Already ostrich boas crowd the
windows, and the triple plumes OF the Prince OF
Wales have appeared Oh bOnnets. Indeed. fasudious
women became weary Of flowers early In the summer
and ordered plain bonnetS garnlture Of tips. The
short ostrich boas for the neck range from 81 to SO
and 81, the less expensive being made Of vulture
feathers instead OF the genuine ostrich. Boas two
yards long are S25 upward.
a little bonnet intended to be worn at reception
and Just brought from Paris was composed simply Of
bands of black velvet displaying the entire coiiure
and was trimmed with three tips in mauve caught
down by bow OF watered ribbon. Another
hat entirely composed of tiny black tips and
made over a frame in butterfly form.
II is too early predict with certainty concerning
trimmings and the mnutae of millinery, but 1t seems
TO be generally conceded that velvet studded with
jet and embroidered will be largely used aud that the
prlncipal trimming OF winter millinery will be os
tricb feathers, Evening bOnnets viii display more or
less OF the coiIurc. becoming in some cases merely
dainty hcaddresses.
,hc shaggy soft wuOlenS introduced this season Is
certain Close natural furs and astraklan will be
chiefly used.
The above plates are furnished by the courtesy of
Lord 4 TAYLOR For information thanks due TO
Lord q Taylor. James McCrecry Co. and Aitken.
son a. Co.