Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-10-12
WHAT WOMEN WEAR.
Shirley Dare's Chat About the Com.
ing Winter Fashions.
DRESSES FOR VARYING USES.
Costliness Of Trying to Purchase Els'
ganee Too Cheaply.
sHAwLs WORKED Up INTO COSTUMES

shapely features which wear it. Let The
aquiline woman beware Of essaying 1t, how
ever, unless she is willing that her most
prominent features should soar in parrot
like relief. The bonnet is better for her, as
the trimming is massed outside the line of
the crown and projects almost as much as
the tip of the nose itself.
In choosing hat or bonnet for woman
with prominent features hold ruler straight
against the tip of the nose and have the
brim or trimming come at least as far for
ward. This trimming should be light
feathers, gause or lace-with sim pie, effect
i've knot of velvet loops with p,eatings of
muslin de sole or thin crepe each side. The
feather border laid in tufts also sets out
from the head and makes it look smaller.
For theater charming piece has Greek pat
tern border of velvet, shaped by wire and
buckram, laid over crepe lisse futing, the
bow of feather tufted 'snow" gauze and
black velvet ribbon with "snow" aigrette
being of that simple, inimitable elegance
which enchants the masculine mind and dis
tracts the feminine.
HOUSE AND WALKING DRESSES.
One Of the best models for house dress is
the glossy black silk now worn, with front
of velvet striped and figured damask net.
The'shaping OF the corsage gives charming
slender hgure, delightfully."- the opposite to
the deformity of the Spanish jacket which
widened the waist. The sleeve will be bet
ter without the bell cuff, which is really the
only point to criticise about this interesting
toilet, admirable tor an amateur concert
dress.
A caprics of the mode 10 a walking dress,
half cloth, half velvet, which, if the mate
rails are both in the same shade, or in rare
harmony, may pass with taste. The trim
ming with Angora fringe is one of the new
est ideas, and the drift of it across the breast
is warm and protecting to the sensitive line
Of the chest.
Many of the winter styles are suggestions
from the fifteenth century dress, revived by
the Tudor exhibition, which was the delight
of the London world last season. Veritable
state dresses were unearthed from wardrobe
rooms and Golfers; gloves tarnished and
sewn with pearls; corselets of woven metal,
studded with carbuncle turquoise, garnet
and seed pearls; bodices stiff with embroid-
cry in gold thread and furred; moth-eaten
mantles which had stirred with the unrest
of the proudest, uneasiest hearts in the
world.
OLD-TIME PETTICoATs.
Not only the Maries and Elizabeths, of
whom history is full, sent their last fnery TO
the exhibition, but those forgotten Maries,
Annes and 1sabellas whose destiny was SO
high and so unhappy in that they were less
account living than they seem to be dead
women without force, daring or worth
enough to win what was theirs by desire and
right, who coveted, envied, moped, and left
themselves nothing but their pedigree and
= @ka,r Nnn l..
graceful enough to be remembered and
admired.
The cheap velvet sleeves, wrought in
attempt to mimic Venetian richness from
shoulder to waist, hang on the show line
above the counters marked only So 80 the
pair. Oh, for sumptuary laws again, or
rather that women would be laws unto
themselves, for then, and then only, shall
we see noble and enduring fashions, the
sumptuou demanding the finest, richest
productions OF the loom to carry out its
royal ideas; woven to last, enhanced by the
handiwork of the weavers, of a design
bright, CHEEKY stuffs that would cleanse
year after year like new and be worth the
dollars put into them.
CHEAP GOODS THE DEAREST.
AS it is, you may go from counter to
counter and find little worth the trouble of
making up. Certainly it does not pay to
give months salary of an ordinary pro-
fessional woman for simple dress, to wait
the pleasure of a dressmaker for days and
hours to have it reftted, get it after two
weeks waiting to have the binding altered
and the seams taken in under the arms,
and then in six weeks wear have it turn
rusty, with the verdict from those who
should know that sit won't pay to dye it,
for the threads are giving way already"
That is a specimen of what women buy for
stylish dresses. They pay for style, and
nothing else, and style won't wear or keep
its gloss. Women begin the matter OF dress
reform at the wrong end. If they were to
demand better fabrics, and model them in
a certain compromise of good taste, they
would be gamers, rather than to pay three
prices for reform garments when common
ones are already dear. Let us look at the
Venetian bodice and the "hygienic" ex-
travagances and beware of either.
THIS AUTUMN's co1oRs.
The colors for the autumn include num-
Der Of shadowy browns, which will be use 'ul,
notably the richly soft tan shade called
Hindoo, after the hue of native bodies This
is combined with pale Egyptian greens, like
verdigris; cocoa, walnut, camel and umber
shades describe themselves. The reds are
delightful. Moorish red, Indian red, Bou-
LANCER, the clear, carnatiou scarlet and
rich cherry red, long in disuse. Turquoise
is the trimming color for bows and Of
sets to dress, much seen with black, espe-
cially in made trimmings.
The old passementerie and gimp bands
have their patterns picked out in the bosses
of imitation turquoise, and the effect of
color is pretty, though it revolts the taste in
material.
Other trimmings are varied with coral,
mock amber and pearls, as we'll as turquoise,
but these things lose their richness with
their rarity. A woman dressed in such fill
gree, even to whole fronts of it, moves with
the air OF an educated squaw. limitations
have reached their limit.
SLEEVELESS JACKETS.
The embroidery fashion brings out some
pretty sleeveless jackets, wrought all over
in the finest silk cord. which looks like
hemstitch, as il it were whipped over and
over by hand. This makes fabric yery
durable, and we may congratulate ourselves
that the shape is SO good, since it is likely
to last. Jackets and sacgues are much
longer, have straight fronts and are straight
on the lower edges, with no buttons visible.
Plain soft beaver, with pearled finish of
narrow braid on the very edge OF the 'front.'
is we'll worn. Diagonal goods wear shiny
soon.
Shawls of every sort are made into dresses
for exclusive wearers by private modistes.
White chuGdah shawls, with narrow border
brooches in white wool, are made into house
dresses with lovely effect; dark, handsome
cashmeres and the fine paisleys are made
into combination dresses. Velvet crossed
with India camel's hair shawling ought to
be elegant enough tor any carriage Dress