Evening journal., 1890-07-16
TICKLING TIE N0HnILS.
DELIGHTFUL PERFUMES DISTILLED
FROM FRAGRANT FLOWERS.

The ART OF Misunderstanding CosnEnes and
Scented Popaaes-Ho7s the odors Are
Extracted ms Health P~oanoter-sAns-
NAL TNerfumes.
To smell sgveoo is as enshbuuabae noepetnys
Us it Is TO look sweet Some people are as
curious TO know what perfumery their neigh
bors use as they are interested in their wear
ing apparel Perfumery and cologne arc no
longer considered luxury, but q necessity
1t has not always been thus Orr grand
mothers and oven our mothers have seen the
day when bottle Of cologne was something
not etseily procured II Is only within recent
years that tho ooss Of perfumes has been 50
reduced as to enable everybody to enjoy the
luxury
A prominent plryshcinn told the writer re
tently that by neglecttng TO tutor the sense
Of smelling people are constantly led 10
breathe impure abr, and thus poison tho body
| by neglocting tho warming given at tho cato
Of the lungs Those who use perfumes are
moro sensitive to the presence Of vitiated at
| fnosphero than those who either consider the
| faculty Of smelling "a useless gift OF do not,
| through ignorance, appreciate the good dc
rived from keeping the smelling organ ia
7 good condition.
TIE ART or pERFUMERY
Being curious to know how perfurners cap
ture these subtle fragrances that puzzle the
| wills Of would be extractoss, the writer
| called upon a Boston firm who manufacture
oil kinds Of perfumes and colognes
~'Ihe art of perfumery is a wonderful ono, F"
said tho chemist, . and one which is not gen
orally understood. To he a successful per-
| fumer, ono must have good nose for differ
ent odors, just as much as a newspaper man
| must Of necessity possess the note for news
before he can make good journalist To
| the unlearned nose all odors are alike, but
when tutored, either for pleasure or profit,
| no member Of the body is more sensitive,
Wine merchants, tea brokers. drug dealers,
| tobacco importers and others have 10 GO
through regular nasal course Of training.
"The following are the principal odors
used in perfumes Rose cinnamon, musk,
beliotropo, geranium stock and pinks jas
mine, violet, tonqum bean, orange flower,
| vanilla, sweet pea orfis, balsam Of peru per
| galaria, CASTOR, calamus, clematis, santal.
Glove, storax, wallhosrer, patchouly, cdvet,
verbena, citrooella pineapple, peppermint,
| lavender, magnolia, ambergris, oedrat, ber.
| ganlot, mint, syringa, jonquille, Portugal
almond, camphor, southernwood, vernal
| grass NEW hay1, tuberose, acacia
"Flowers yield perfumes in all cfinaoes,
but those growing IN the warmer latitudes
are more prolific In their odor, while those
from the colder are the sweetest.r
Does the odor Of plants always reside IL
the blossomF'
/
| the iris and vitfvert; the stem or wood ii
cedar and santal; the leaves in mint, patch
ouly and thyme; the flower M tho roses and
violets, the seeds IN the tonquin bean and
caraway; tho bark in cinnamon, etc Tbs
oiors OF fo~uFs are more GENERALLY secFeted
during sunshine, but there are some which
yield no odor in the daytime, bat are very
fragrant in the evening Flowers pltlcked
for perfuming purposes must be talreo when
tho secretion Of odor is at its height II Is d
strange eact that white flowers are the most
fragrant and pleasing to the smell while tha
brown colored flowers are of litthe nse 20 thG
| peTfumern
~Are not flowers cslltivat0d for perfu1nino
| purposes IN some parts Of tho United StatasF
'Decidedly not Our climate, or climatea
are peculiar, but NOS adapted for this pnr-
posos
EXTRACTING THD oDORG
slow Is the odor extracted from the louea
or plantF
"The plant, or that part Of = wfricb con
tains tho odoriferous prfncfple, is placed in
an iron copper or glass pan. varying in siag
/ from that capable of holding from one tC
twenty gallons, and covered with water; tC
the pan dome shaped lid is fitted. termi
mating with a pipe which is twisted cork
screw fashion and fixed in Bucket Thii
apparatus Is oalled stiIl, IN which thf
water is caused TO boil, and having DO Other
exit, the steam must pass through the oodled
! pipe, which, being surrounded by oo5d water
in the bucket condenses the vapoy befope Il
can arrive at tho tap With the steam the
volatile oil, that Is the perfume, riser and 4
lhqueiied at the saune time and Is preserved
Another process, which Is now becoming
| quite common, is the pomade process, oz
maceration- The operation Is conducted
thusi A certain quantity OF purified lard il
put into a clean metal or porcelain pant tht.
being melted by a steam heat or bath. tn,
! kind Of flowers required for the odor wantel
are carefully picked and placed in contac'
with the liquid fat and allowed 70 remai1
from twenty~four to forty-eight hours.
THE fat has particular affinity or attrao
draws it out Of them and becomes itself by
their aid highly perfuned. The fat Is straineC
from the spent flowers, and fresh flowers ar,
added ten or fifteen TINES over till the 20
made is of tho required strength. The pomadi
Is then packed in cans and is reody for trans
| portation- The next thing to do when tn,
| odor that lies in the fat is 70 be converted
into cologne is 70 extract it fnom the lard
This is done by simple process OF per1neatins
the fat with highly distilled alcohol, which /
called cologne spirits. The cologne spirits
takes every particle Of the odor from the lard
it is then placed in sealed jars and is allowe
10 stand for at least twelve months before
Is converted into perfumery for the market
AS with vine the longer 10 stands the NOR
virtue there is in it.
Perfumes, it is we'll known, are also de
rived from animals The musk OK and deer
the civet, an animal much resembling thl
common cat, and the whale furnish odor
known az musk and ambergris- The perfum
known as civet is probably one OF the odes
perfumes known.> The odor OF civet Is bes
impaired, not by actual contact, but by b.
ing placed in the neighborhood Of absorben
materials Thus, when spread on leathe
and placed III writing desk it perfumes tn
paper aud envelopes delightfully."-, 80 much $
that they retain the odor after pasini
through tho mails. VALENTINES are seente'
IN this way
Undoubtedly the perfume known as ne'
mown hay Il the most popular OF perfumes
! Ibe iraprnnre Of hQy Is one Of the. mos