Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-12-21
THE LADIES OF LIMA
Easily Carry Off the Ribbon in the
Worlds Beauty Show.
SENORITAS At THE BULL FIGHT.
They Cheer Their Lovers on to Glory
Whether Living or Dead.
SIGHTS IN PIZARRO'S OLD TOWN
CORRESPONDENCE OF THE DISPATCH, 1,

icoRHEsPoNDENcR OF THE DIsPATcH.I
LIMA, PERU, Nov. 2O.-The sojourner
within these gates finds it difficult to be-
lieVe himself living In the latter part of the
nineteenth century, so strongly do all the
surroundings SAVIOR of yice-regal days.
Those vice-kings of Spain left their finger
marks upon everything, and there is hardly
street, park, public garden, church or gov
ernment building that was not named,
planned or erected by one of them.
Beginning with the great Plaza Major, or
principal square, which covers nearly nine
English acres, we find that the handsome
stone fountain in its center, surmounted by
bronze statue representing Fame, was
built in 1868 by order OF Viceroy. One of
the earliest Viceroys erected the enormous
cathedral that faces one side of this plaza,
with its facade painted red and yellow, its
three green doors and a tower at each angle.
For nearly three centuries its altars were
burdened with gold and silver and jeweled
articles OF church service and ornament,
until lew years ago, when most OF its
treasures were appropriated and converted
into money by needy republican govern
ment. In its dark crypt is the stone coffin
OF PIzarro, the couqueror, and another con-
tanning the remains of his rascally relative,
Gonzalo Pizarro.
THE PALACE OF PIzARRo.
Another side of the same square is oceu-
pied by rather mean-looking building.
with small shops beneath it, which is no
less than the old palace where Pizarro ruled
with high hand during his brief day here,
anu Where he was assassinated by "the men
OF Chilli" who appointed themselves the
avengers OF Almagro's murder. Its upper
part still serves as Government ''palaclo''
and Is occupied by various officers of the
new regime.
The long, straight streets that diyerre
from this central square and run at right
angles have an appearance of age and SOL
emn!ty not borrowed from the frail struct-
ures that line them on either side. As
earthquakes are momentarily expected and
the city stands in the very heart of the rain
less region, its peculiarities of architecture
are largely the outgrowth of local causes.
More substantial structures of brick or
stone could not so we'll resist the eonvul-
slons OF nature and the taller and more top
heavy they were, the greater would be the
danger to their inmates; therefore the build
lngs are generally of one story ONLY, seldom
more than two, and of the lightest materials
that can be made to hold together. One
can hardly believe that the apparently mas
slve towers and buttresses of the extensive
churches are merely great wicker baskets,
deceptive combinations of canes and poles,
tied together with thongs, plastered over
with mud, and painted; but such is the
case.
NOT A SINGLE CHIMNEY,
As the absence of rain renders pitched
roofs unnecessary, the coverings of the houses
are Hat, often made of poles, over which is
| spread mating of shredded cane, support
ing layer of ashes and dried grass, in
tended to absorb the dampuess of the fogs.
More commonly, however, the roofing is of
boards, overlaid with adobe; and one is
struck by the fact that in all Lima, and, IN
deed, in all South America, there is not
such thing as Northern chimneyI The
barred windows are relies of early days in
old Castillo, when precautions against
bandits were constant necessity; and they
have served equally well in this country
during the time of the viceroys, against
hordes of pirates from the seq and bands of
| robbers from the mountains, and in later
days against revolutionists.
The more modern houses are two-storied,
and these always have balconies, regular
Romeo and Juliet retreats, whose golden
opportunities for filtration are by no means
neglected. w nereVer Lnere is an upper
story, the lower one is seldom used for living
purposes. but is generally given over to
stabling the horses, storing the carriages,
servants quarters, etc., or is rented room by
room to as many small shop keepers. 1t Is
not all uncommon to find a family of high
degree and great social pretensions. belong
| ing to that exclusive inner circle of upper
tendon, than to gain admittance whereto it
would be easier for a camel to grow through
the eye of needle, residing above a
butchers stall, while near the main en-
| trance a cobbler sits.
THE PLACE FOR PRoMENADINe.
The two sides of the Plaza Major are oc-
cupied by portsles. with shops behind them,
or to be more explicit, by buildings whose
street fronts are faced by pillared corridors
rooted in a long series of arches. These por-
tales are the favorite promenade of the ladies
| OF the city, and therefore, as a matter Of
| course, of the gentlemen also. AT all times
| and seasons one may meet here the beauty
| and fashion and flower" of Lima, as we'll
as the extremes Of riches and poverty, pride
and squslor, that make up the variegated
| life of this old city.
The shops are small, but surprisingly
| crowded with handsome goods, and in theIn
one may find nearly every article of fashion
and luxury which the largest stores of