Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-09-28
THE ABUSED ONION.
A Vegetable Of Merit Despite the
Verdict of Sensitive Noses.
POPULAR WITH THE ANCIENTS.
A Nutritlve Food in Health and a Good
Medicine in Disease.
HOW TO HANDLE 1T In THE KITCHEN
WRITTEN FOR THE DISPATCH


yet by many it is never used only in con-
junction with other articles of food. 1t is,
therefore, difficult for us to comprehend
how in old times it was favorite vegetable,
but that it was we must conclude from the
fattering accounts which have come down
to US. The fact is the onions of antiquity
such as were produced in Egypt and in the
warmer regions of the earth, and such as are
now produced in California, in the West
Indies and in the Bermuda Islands, differ
to marked degree from those which are
grown in our latitude. We labor under the
disadvantage of having been familiar with
that variety which is common here, and
which was the only kind available prior to
the advent of those which are now the recog-
nized commodity of commerce.
1t taxes our credulity to believe that the
onion, which was such an important food to
the Hebrews in Egypt, was the same as is
now dug out of the ground, in fall, in our
country gardens. We read that in the
journey through the Wilderness, when there
was nothing at all besides the mama, be-
fore their eyes, "The children of Israel also
wept again, and said who shall give us flesh
did eat in Egypt freely; the cucumber and
the melons, and the leeks, and the onions"
This is the only mention of this article of
food in the Bible; and it is here spoken of
as one of the things of which the Israelites
regretted the loss.
SHAKESPEARE'S ONIONS.
But it is not probable that they should
have been as favorably regarded if they had
or haafa anf IL kkon
those we are accustomed to. Compare, for
instance, this commeDdatory allus1on to
them in that venerable record of antiquity,
the Book OF Moses, and the allusion to them
in Shakespeare. In the flaming of the
Shrew" they are recommended Tor a more
practical use; for none other, indeed, than
to bring tears to the eyes Of the boy player
whose part it is to personate the weeping
spouse OF Christopher Sly, the drunken
tinker:
And If the boy have not woman's gift,
To rain shower of commanding tears.
An onion will do well for such a shift;
Which, in napkin being close conveyed,
Shall in despite enforce watery eye.
The onion is associated with the domestic
food of mankind, as we are reminded from
the earliest records of his existence One
kind cultivated in Egypt was held in such
high esteem that in the singular forms and
beliefs into which their religious instincts
shaped themselves, 1t received divine honors.
We also read in Plutarch's life that Numa,
the second King of Rome. had been taught
a charm against thunder and lightning, In
which onions were an ingredient; and Plu-
tarch says that the mixture was used as
charm in his day. Many varieties OF the
onion were known to the Greeks and
Romans and they have always been culti-
vated in India, China and japan.
THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES.
The onion of the East and Of the Bermu-
das and California are much milder in
flavor and less pungent than those of our
country. Although there are not many
varieties of those in use with us; yet thev
differ much in size, shape, color of the skin
and pungency of taste. The causes of this
are mostly OF local nature, sometimes
traceable to their cultivation, their age at
gathering, or their exposure to the atmos-
phere.
More than one prominent physician has
observed that it is pity the strong un-
aromatic odor OF this vegetable should be
the cause of keeping many from indulging
in it; for their dietetic and medicinal vir-
tues are recognized as of high order. 1t
was favorite article prescribed for certain
purposes by the celebrated DR.. Abernathv,
one OF the most eminent OF English ply
sicians-a learned doctor who did not mince
his words, and who was endowed to a re-
markable degree with the gift of good com-
mon sense. Among many instances OF this
is his advice to an aristocratic patient who
came to him to be cured of dyspepsia, You
can cure yourself" said the doctor. "Live
on sixpence day, and earn it."
GETTING RID OF THE oDoR.
Onions in the process of cooking part with
much of their rankness, and the unpleasant
odor peculiar to them. Changing the water
occasionally In which they are being boiled
helps to this end. The water, by the way,
should, if possible, be hard, as soft water
renders them insipid. Cooks do not agree
among themselves as to the special condi
ton of the water in which they should be
boiled; some put them to boil in clear, cold
water; others plunge them into boiling
water slightly salted. The latter method
comes from such high authority that we
feel ourselves warranted in recommending
it.
The body of the onion when laid open is
peculiarly attractive and appetizing in its
natural state; and persons of taste under |
stand how desirable it is that the color and |
healthy appearance should be preserved in |
cooking. For this object various means are |
resorted to. They should be pared and !
sliced with silver knife, the water should |
be frequently changed while boiling, and |
they should be cooked in good ware-and !
not in tin or iron. To preserve their color |
in picking they should be boiled or scalded |
in sweet milk, and white wine vinegar
should be used.
HOW TO HANDLE THEM.
To protect the eyes, pare onions under |
water, use piece of bread on the end Of |
the knife, or stand at an open door or win
dow. To remove the odor from the hands, |
rub them with bruised celery. Onion juice |
may be obtained by use Of squeezer, or by |
grating the onion and pressing out the juice. |
Onions readily transmit their odor to butter |
and milk; for this reason these articles
should notebe placed in proximity to each |
otner The odor of onions may, in a meas
ure, be overcome by tying small piece of |
charcoal in bit of cloth and dropping it in |
the vessel.
To sweeten utensils in which onions have
been cooked wash them thoroughly with |
soap and water, fill with clean cold water.
add lump of sal soda, let come to the boil, |
turn out the water and rinse well. To keep |
large onions string them and hang where |
they will keep cool and dry. The small |
ones NAV be suspended in nets, Onions |
may also be packed with chaff, in barrels, |
and kept in an outbuilding. If stored in |
close cellars their sprouting will emit an
odor anything but pleasant.
SOME OF ITS USES.
The virtues of onions are many. Eaten |
with horseradish it is said to relieve drop
steal swellings; its application in the first |
stages OF scalds and burns will give relief
almost Immediately; as a remedy for the |