Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-02-08
WAKEMAN'S BEST HIT
The Literary Pilgrim in Spain Strikes
a Startling Coincidence.
ROBBED BY A RELENTING BANDIT,
Whose Brother BE Had Befriended Before
Execution in Cuba.
SANTIAGVs SHRINE AND vALLADOLID
IcoRREsroNDENcE OF THE DISPATCH.

VALLADoLID, SPAIN, January 49,
[CopyrIght. lit had been a hard tramp
from Finisterre; we had not arrived al
Santiago until about midnight, and it was
nearly noon of the next day when was
awakened by gentle tapping at the dool
of my old alcoba in the humble inn 10
which our Gallegan guide had conducted
us. The tapping proceeded from the
knuckles of a harsh-voiced criada, or maid
servant, who, on my demand that whoever
was knocking should enter, proceeded first
to inform me that no such unpar1onable
conduct on her part could be tolerated, and
then to say that one Pierre Floquet, having
bargained for the jacas he stood in need OF,
had eaten his breakfast, dutifully kissed the
sacred esclavins-the grand finale of all
pilgrimages to the famous Cathedral of San
tingo-was now patiently waiting to bid me
final adios, after which he must speedily
depart to his own people, at desolate Fin
isterre. 1 asked that he be sent to my al
coba. He came numbering and stumbling
up the stairs, and, hat in hand, entered the
room and approached my bedside. Poor
Pierre! He was in tears. He sank upon
his knees beside me, poured forth vehement
and eloquent blessings, and sobbed like a
child as we clasped hands for the last time.
Finally breaking away, as il overcome with
sadness, he cried repeatedly, "Quede usted
con DiosP'-"Quede usted con Diosp'
(''May you remain with Godr')-and pre-
cipitately disappeared into the courtyard
and calle below.
HOW IT CAME TO BE BUILT.
contemplation is this wondrous old Cathe-
dral where Pierre had performed his adora.
tion. How it came to be butt, and how for
centuries it remained the most luminous
shrine in Western Europe, are more strange
and curious than can be told of any other
of the noble though decaying sacred edifces
of Spain. st. James, the elder, brother of
st. John, the apostle, was stoned to death at
Jerusalem. st. James is the tutelar saint
of Spain, as is st. George, of England, st.
Denis, OF France, and st. Patrick, of Ire
land. Over 1000 years ago, in S35, Theod-
omir, Bishop of Ira, so runs the tradition,
discovered the body OF st. James, removed
in some miraculous manner from Jerusalem,
surrounded by a wondrous light in a
dense forest, to which a star led
the way; hence the name of the city,
Santiago de Campostella. or St. James
was removed by Leon Ill, from the chapel
already erected at the place of discovery by
Theodimir, and Santiago was raised to see.
A corn-rent or Ell Voto of one bushel per
acre was collected from all Spain, yielding a
yearly revenue of nearly 81, 900, 900, which
was continued until 1885, The present ca
thedral is not a single creation OF single
architect or period; but has been the result
of untold votive offerings since the first won
drously splendid basilica was built by AL
fonso the Great, between the years S66 and
910.
RARE ECCLESIASTICAL ART.
An entire page would be required to give
adequate description Of this noble edifce;
but the chair-stalls, carved by Gregorio
EspanoI in 1906; the bronze pulpits, by
Celms, in 1868; the massive, magnificent and
unrivalled Portico de La Gloria, the mighty
western entrance; and the tomb and efigies
of st. James;are ali unequalied examples in
ecclesiastical art. The latter two are won
deriul indeed The scul ptor's theme upon
the Portlco de la Gloria is the Last Judg-
ment, with Christ proceeding from the root
Of Jesse. This representation is illimitably
more than enough to have given Mateo I'M
mortality as "el Maesto" of Spain. Its vast
ness, grandeur. deep poetic feeling, and mar
velous reality, in which the hinty stone
glows with radiant life, are, believe, be-
yond comparison with anv known sacred sub
ject of the sculptor's art to be found else
where in Europe. In the center of the Ca
pilla Mayor or chiet chapel rises great al
tar of jasper and marble. Again st, James
is represented at the battle of Clavigo slay-
ing infdels, who are falling about him in
hundreds. Four great columns rise near
these effgies. Upon each is seated the fig
ure of an angel. These four angels support
the tomb itself, high in air, and an i'm
mense star OF blazing gold is suspended
above the tomb.
TOWARD THE INTERIOR.
of this most rare and wonderful ecclesiastical
pile of Northwestern Spain, was impa-
tient to reach the interior. Securing the
company of band of Maragatos, ou their
way with drove of pack mules from San
tiago to Astorga, in the province of Leon,
1 passed three days and two
nrghts upon the mountain roads
with my strange fellows, mulet-
GERS, who are descended from the Moors and
still wear long tassels to their caps, and
breeches as wide and corpulent with cloth
as a Scotch Highlander's kilt; remained a
night at ancient Astorga, the Auturica
Augusta of Pliny, where the old Roman
walls still exist in great massiveneSs and
strength, linked here and there bv gigantic
cubos; and then set out afoot and alone
down the valley of the Orbigo toward the
olden capital of Spain, quaint and ruinous
Valladolid. This impatIence brought me
singular adventure, illustrative OF the return
of bread cast upon the waters. At Villa
pando two roads, the northern via Medina,
the southern by the way of La Mota, lead
to Valladolid. The latter, dreary and un-
freouented, breaks into numerous mountain
foot paths in the southern spurs of the
Monies de Torezos. Briefly, was lost, and
wandering for half day in wild and for
bidding district, as good or bad luck would
have it, came upon a lonely mountain ehoza
at night, where was at first refused ad-
mittance by its only inmate, starved and
fendish looking hag of % or 80 years.
slowed myself away upon the armful Of
millet straw she gave me, and, without food,
passed wretched night. My dreams were
filled with all manner of disaster, and, in the
hours 1 laid awake I pondered forebodingly
over a vicious remark my unwilling hostess
had made that the men of Monies de Tore
zos repaid the visits of strangers to their
homes when they were absent, with the
"caress of the knife"
SHE SENT HIM TO BANDITTI.
When morning came, gave her some
coin, and received directions from her how
to cross the mountains to Valladolid. The
explicitness OF these worried .he as trudged
along. But surely she had told me the way
truthGully; for on turning through shadowy
gorge, there lay the great valley of the Pi-
suerga, with the spires and domes of Valla-
dolid away to the east, and, here almost at
the mountain base, the grim walls Of Siman-
cas-, where, hamlet though the place is, may
be found .he richest store of ancient ar