The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1890-10-19


rought hairy fabrics which constitute this
seasons novelties.
From the ieweer. the dress and milliner
artIs,es have borrowed the turquoise ana
lis color and are using both with prodigalI-
IN. Turquoise blue with black promises u
be the color tad Of the winter, and bright
blue with black. but oftener with brown,
will be another fayorite; purple with gold
and with gray, and dark green with gray
and with beige or darker brown are also
likely TO run well.
The historic yellow dog trottIng under the
nioneer's wagon might be shorn Tor an ifnl-
ration of opossnm were II worth while TO
initiate IL. On the contrary, its cheapness
makes IL a valuable aid - the furrier In MS
lautlabe effort 10 place aristocratic furs
within reach OF the democratic masses III
its natural state il shows very deep shading
from yellow to brown. Sheared. plJcked,
and dyed. 1t is converted into so good an
imitation OF sea otter that emily experts
may distinguish IL.
blondes are going TO suffer terriDly-nat-
ural blondes, dyed blondes, oxygenee
Llondes-no one will escape the coming
curse of Sarah. In Hosea" Bernhardt
turned the fashions of the world over to the
First Empire: half the globe is still there.
In sTheodora" she imposed jewel belts ana
byzantine patterns. Now she Is going 10
have black hair and q dark skin as Cleo
patra. -,
Flowers will not be altogether ignored
and ribbons will still be used, for what
would millinery be without ribbonsy But
featners-especially the long-taDooed o.
trich tips--will be preferred of all the head
gear garnture, ahd will nod ana wave
above beauty's face at the theatre, on the
promenade and wherever Miss Philla OF
Mrs. Pansy will be seen,
There Il more marked difference al
present i'm the street and house couture than
incre has been for some time. For the
street the hair is worn in low. oblong con
of braids quite low, If the lady is young, pal
otherwise 10 clear the top Of the collar. Inc
| front hair II still cut in a slight bang
straight across the forehead. IL the lore
head is handsome curl is arranged IN the
centre, and the hair at the sides ~ CURED
and brushed back. For the house the halr
is arranged from the crown OF the head 70
the nape Of the neck in soft coils. l0ung
ladies' hair for evening is often waved en-,
tire in front, and then brushed back ana
arranged softly and becomingly around the
| face.
There are few distinctiyely new shades IN
evening silk Jewel col0rs, turquoise blue
amethystine purpes, sapphire blue, topaz
|
| natural flax color is popular gray hue, and
vizier, a dull shade Of purple copied IRON
the royal robes OF the Oriental Minister o.
state, is another color. The bluest blues
shown i'm silk this season are the same az
the cOrnfOwer blues Of a few years since
and are strong, pronounced ana tryiht
color bur one always producing striklhg
effect combined with cOquellcot or poppy
reds.
For more immediate and rational use we
cling TO the plain, straight skirts, ana we
| have adopted cloth as way 10 permanent
costume. However, the paniers Ill soi
goods are trying very hard TOO creep I'D uh
swares. They are very small and modest
thus far. but will they grow; Any way
everything is to be blue-pale celestial blue
and velvet is 20 be the queen of lace, fur
and feathers; the latter are TO be pages only
10 sustain the ROYAL elegance OF plain, rlcl
velvet. For full ira la las, brOcades, EN-
broidery, anything you wish, II costly anC
dazzling.
Quite a new idea is TO wear large moirt
ribbOn-blue, Of cOurse-like decoration
passing over the right shoulder and tyint
en- sautOir. On the shoulder II is fashioned
with an authentic diamond buckle OF The
period of the creation Of the Order OF the
Legion Of Honor.
y
form the human figure into mere mode
for the display Of the dressmaker's art, 1t II
a relief to find few dresses sent over from
Paris pure in classic outline and draperl
rs if designed by Millet. These dresses are
usually made of white and pale grapes OF
India silks, lOr drap de nactas in delicate
nOwer-like cOlOrs. The borders OF Inc
drapery are embroidered. and the girdle'
are woven Of gold and jewels. a beautiful
Greek gown of pure white Grape was thus
embroidered with tiny flowers on pale but
tercup yellow, and girded with an opef
band of twisted gold studded with pale vel
low topaz, and left TO hang nearly to The
| foot of the dress.
| For carriage wraIs, fOr extra warmth
over reception or bali dress, Redfern has
gone back, in his authoritative fashion, e
fur-lined circulars; but these have h new
and jaunty look. because there is sort @
| full cloth drapery, cleyerly cOntrlyed or
| each shoulder, so as not TO interfere wit.
the high sleeves, flower, or jewel epaulete
&c. This innovation is charming, only D
must he signed Redeem or near thereto, f0l
| il requires the most artistic delcacy o
touch. Either too much or too little OF
pucker would be frightful.
DO not believe that black stockings, ever
were they made of the finest Chantilly, cal
| NC Nplh WIN patent hit WIN h-hS
dresses. The stockings and the slippers
must match the dress. This is just as in
dispensable as to have a pair of gloves Z
wear. Another affirmation | must make il
reply to an inquiry: No one ever carrie
bouquets here in the evening. Flowers arr
sent to bellies in baskets, with high, big
still, wire-mOunted bOw-knOts, such as thu
modiste uses on hats. A flower is selected
and worn on the cOrsage. held by Jewe
pin. No Frenchwoman would relish tn
toll Of carrying a bouquet, and she woult
esteem that the gallantry of her friend
would thus be far too highly recognized
Not even at the dinner table does TIT
French hostess impose a bouquet; tout al
plus. will she herself select flower for he
guests from the nearest decoration. but l
simply serves as toy, and soon in the sailor
il may be found on the floor. \ lady o
graceful gesture and presence has quit
enough to do 10 manage her gloves and he
fan, and her pretty fingers are best seen IL
! all their neat and rosy coquetry when In re
pose. To carry huge bouquet requires
| small boy.