The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1890-06-05

Marvellous Results Obtained by a
Glover Invention.
Tho Most Intricate and Delicate Bits 81
Embroidery. Made Few Years Ago
Only by Hand, Turned Out--The
Work OF Chlcacoan.


"An cr rtircly new industry has sprung
up within tho past few years in Chica-
CO." said Joseph Alexander to Chicago
Herald reporter, ''and, aside from those
Immediately interested, nobody knows
any thing about 1t. And yet II is an in
dustry which involves millions Of dol
lars. Perhaps tho torn industry is
slightly misleading. 1t is more OF On
art than an industry"
Explain, please"
"Well, tho best way to explain is to
take you along right to tho spot where
this industry Is carried on"
In long fight Of rooms o row Of
some two score Of machines wero stand
ing. These machines were Of different
construction and served different pur-
poses. That much was apparent at once.
"Up to 1885 all those embroidered and
braided garments, tho cloaks and recep-
tion gowns, capes, ETC.. had to be i'm
ported from Paris and Berlin" said Mr..
Alexander, "but they arc now all made
right here. To show you tho difference
between thcn and now it is only neccs-
sary to say that the silk embroidery on
lady's jacket alone used to cost about
S1s to So. now it is made for SO. A fine
oml' rcd silk robc, such as now can
be e.. out hero for $40 or $50, used
to req.-rc an outlay of $50 to $500.
With that it had to be imported. 1t
could not bo madc hcrc. Take anoth or
line of goods, such as embroidered ta-
Bile covers, scarfs, tides, pillow shams,
etc. They're all donc by machinery
now. All those delicately twisted flow
ers, those roses and vines and clusters
Of grapes and pearl blossoms and sun
flowers and pansics-they'ro all wrought
into the cloth by machinery. And this
is tho only establishment Of tho kind in
America, at least tho only one Of any
size, and the only ono where every va
riety of this work can bo done. They
have mono such in the East"
1t is very curious to watch those ma
chines-apparently endowed with more
than ordinary human intelligcnce-at
work. There are somc ten different
kinds of machines kept in operation.
The most curious of all Is ono invented
year ago-a machine whose special do
main Is the go-callcd applique" work.
| 1t performs thrco tasks at ono and the
same time. When properly adjusted q
| tiny knife cuts out, according to the
pretty design intended, tho figures from
the upper layer of cloth, whilc simultan-
eously tho machine sews thcso figures
on to the layer of cloth underneath,
the upper layer being generally Of me-
dium thickness, while tho lower one is
cloth Of tho thiclscst, warmest and most
expensive kind, such as Is suitable for
laly's winter cloak. Tho stitch is pretty
and artistic, and the thread runs through
tho double thickness Of cloth, making
tho work as durable as it is possible to
have IT,. Tho effect thus obtained-ar-
tistic arabesques, beautifully curving
lines, forming an intricate yet pleasing
pattern, lying on the cloth underneath.
is very pretty, indeed. Generally two
cloths of shades differing SO much as to
form ilno contrast arc chosen. The
delicate mechanism of this machine is
especially noticeable in the cutting out
of tho upper layer of cloth. For while
tho whole process of cutting it and sew
ing it on tight at the same timo Is dono
so quickly under tho hands, OF o slSillful
operator, that yard of this applique"
work is made within about five minutes,
tho knife must be so nicely adjusted
that it will cut exactly through the
thickness Of the upper cloth and not
tho hundredth part Of an inch deeper, or
tho whole material and tho whole work
would become O dead loss.
However, that was but ono Of tho in.
tercsting features OF this establishment.
Another machine, which Is likewise the
product OF very ingenious brain, is the
so-called 'threo-spool" machine. Two
threads Of worsted and ono thread Of
silk cording are manipulated by this
machine in such manner as to lay
down the worsted on tho cloth and to
spin the silk right over and all around
it. The effect thus produced Is that OF
very thick silk braid, the whole being
moro durable than silk throughout, yot
much loss expensive. Tho beading ma
chine, by means Of which those most
elegant ornaments on woman's dress,
those glistcning arabesques of beading,
are put on Is another triumph of me-
chanical gcnius. Tho same may be
said of the feathor.edge machine,
which does the so-called sunbeam
and rainbow" work, cmbroidering the
shades, which arc gradually toned down;
of the Cornelly machine, which does
the cording, and still more SO of the SOU
tache machine, which docs the simplest
and yet one of tho most effective styles
of embroidery. 1t is tho latter sort OF
work that ladies call soutache. Nearly
every woman wears 1t on some piece OF
garment, on q cape, cloak, on heI
dresses and even on her underwear
And it is of exactly the kind which, bu,
a couple OF years back, was very expen
sive, but which now, thanks to this
wonderful pieco of mechanism, has come
within tho reach of all. And as there
is great variety In the style Of worl
done by these different machines, se
there is in tho material with which they
work. There is silk braid Of overy i'm
aginable huo and thickness; thcre Il
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