Custer chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, Black Hills, D.T. [S.D.]) 1880-1890, 1890-01-11
A Miserable Voyage From Athsns
to Alexandria in a Crowded
Steamer.
An Egyptian Pasha Hired the En-
tire ladies' Saloon for His
Wives.
A Sunset on the Mediterranean-An
Adventure ON the Nile-Tal-
mage on a Donkey-How
He Rode n Camei.
The Talmage Travels.

III seemed 10 me as III we uad leIt CIVIL
ization behind. The experience was q
sorry one; to exchange the bright and
gay capital Of Greece and the friends
we had found there, for the overcrowded
steamer which conveyed US TO Alexan'
dria. There is but one line of steamers
between Greece and Egypt. 1t is known
as the Egyptian Packet Steamship com
pany's line. There being no choice in
the matter. Alexandria having TO be
reached, we took the steamer Chakkieh
from Pir@us, which Is the harbor OF
Athens and a place of considerably over
20, 900 Inhabitants. The ship was Sc
crowded with passengers that our party
was compelled 10 divide up some mem
bers of it being compelled TO travel, as
far as sleeping accommodations we're
concerned, as second class passengers.
An Egyptian pasha aboard had five OF
his wives along, and for their exclusive
comfort and convenience had hired
the entire ladies' saloon and dress
ing room, putting others to dis
tressing Inconvenience. Arabs crowded
the decks. Among hem was a
sheik very noticeable anywhere; he had
a keen eye and a commanding look.
Ashore he is at the head of a force OF
$1,000 men; at sea he is surely the most
deyout of Mussulmans. He was nearly
always engaged in prayer, or in the alb
lutions preliminary and proper to this
pious exercise. DIR. Talmage was greatly
impressed with the unabashed absorp-
tion Of the followers of Mahomet in
their practice OF the duties prescribed
for them in the Koran. lie expressed
himself as of the opinion that not one
in 100, 900 Christians would venture in
public places with scores of spectators
and under no undue pressure from ex-
ceptional circumstances to thus openly
demonstrate his religious faith. We sur
vived the voyage 70 Alexandria, and
will ever retain a strong impression OF
what it is to live two days in close con
tact with Arabs, pent up in narrow quar-
tiers, trying vainly TO rest on miserable
beds, and being obliged TO consume food
and drink far from our liking.
i am modest IN my attempts at des-
cription, and possibly should have no.
ticed less the splendors of "a Mediter-
ranean sunset, had my immediate sur
~roundings been agreeable. These were
un-American enough, but the retire.
ment of Old Sol was a strong reminder
OF home. Yes, there were the streaky
clouds neither rosy red nor golden in
their, tint, but an indescribably beautiful
blending OF the two; below them the
delicate green which all too soon dis
appoints the admiration of the observer,
and surrounding the glorious orb, the
saffron splendors which characterize in
q pre-eminent degree the sunsets of
America, and as / know, of the Mediter-
ranean also.
The voyage Of forty-eight hours ex-
hausted DIR. Talmage, who did not sleep
a wink throughout the time. He main
tanned his habitual ch~eerfulness. how
ever, living out his doctrine that peo-
pie who travel should find something
better to do than complain of the dis
comforts of the way, and vex their
friends with the recital upon their re-
turn.
The arrival Of our steamer created
great excitement in the harbor. 1t was
soon surrounded by boats containing
fellows of many nationalitieS, yelling
for dear life. These amia6le beings
were agents for books and hotels, por-
tiers, beggars and touters for Jobs, and
were a less agreeable reminder Of home
than the beauties on which my ambi-
tious pen commented a few moments
ago.
We stopped at Alexandria two bours
pursuing our way TO Cairo with only
this inconsiderable break in the Jour
ney. However, we did manage while at
Alexandria to eat a substantial break
fast, TO see Pompey's pillar, and I o
drive over TO the palace of the khedive.
His highness was at Cairo and we did
not see him. We were taken through
the beautiful palace gardens, which
were in full blossom; and ate fruit from
trees, while an attendant made boQuets
of roses for the ladies Of the party. AS
a matter OF course, we did not fail TO
note street scenes in this great city of
300, 900 inhabitants. The houses, most
OF them, are such as Arabs erect every
where. Razor-backed donkeys. attended
by half-clad jabbering urchins, awaited
fares. People were oddly dressed. the
men in the wide, baggy trousers every
where = feature Of Ia ORIENT Womenss
apparel consisted of loose blue Jean
gowns, black head -capcs and wells either
black or white, held in position, oddly
enough, by bambo sticks. Very ancient
looking were the buffalo carts and the
water wheels served by men or their
faithful servants, the buffalo and the
donkey. Dust was everywhere too
abundant. Our most delightful remin-
iscence of Alexandria is of its gardens.
We arrived at Cairo on the evening OF
November &c, all pretty we'll tagged out,
and more than ready for the really su-
perb accommodations awaiting US. We
found our hotel surrounded by q Pardon
which fiourished in tropical luxuriance.
What was more to the purpose an excel
lent dinner awaited our attention, and
comfortable beds the occupancy Of peo-
pie who never needed them more. The
hotel was . surprisingly good one. 1
think ! should not exaggerate in de-
scribing it as equal TO the best in New
York, but the management was not
equal 70 the task OF excluding from it
flies and mosquitoes. Fleas are an
Egyptian pest OF which no more need be
said.
In the morning we all met at the
breakfast table greatly refreshed.
After breakfast we visited the Boulak
museum, where are the mummies Of
many ancient kings of Egypt, including
the n (Menephtha) who had . disas-
trous series Of interviews with Moses.
DIR. Talmage stood before s'this imper-
lA-lr 10000 -----------N - -.