The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-05-11

theater, San Carlo, is one of the most mag
nificent opera houses in all Italy and is a
veritable musical shrine, since the magical
numbers of Rossini, Bellini, Mercadante
and Donizetti were first given to the
World 70 , within it, walls. o, Ana
mountain heights above, With the splendid
streets of the new, or western quarter, the
densely- thronged lanes of the old or eastern
quarter. the Marina, along the eastern
waterside, and the brilliant Riviera di Chi
ala, with its fashinable throngs enjoying
the cooling winds from the sea, with all
Reale at night, repeating the scenes of the
Marina at Palermo-are all unsurpassed for
diversity of picture, variety of incident and
piquancy of colorful ensemble.
Yet Naples itself possesses no one grand
on place sag or s
perhaps, be modified by saying it was a
city of wonderful contrasts the
tremendously rich and wofully poor;
of the Oldest and best Italian no
bility and the most wretched of titled
adventurers. of dazzling beauty and
most learned savants and the most sodden
in Ignorance; of the highest virtue and the
most disgusting lewdness so shamefaced
that even male devils accost one every
where with printed tariffs for RIGHTEOUSNESS;
of the latest modes in dress, and garb
Tiberius; Of frightful activity and tropical
siesta; of deafening din and solemn hush;
of the shrillest and most cease
less shriekings day and night,
AID meanwhile the most sibilant
and melodious of tender voicings; of con-
tent and despair; cruelty and kindhearted-
ness; loyalty and treachery; and, as all
Italy physically seems to be In flower en-
powered heaven smiling over a threatening
volcanic hell, of laughing eyed humans
with hearts in which the worst of human
passions forever brood. ready at an in
stant's kindling for sedition, rapine and
murder.
The old Naples of the books. which we
have all set in such picturesque framing
from travellers tales and artists Innings,
has wholly passed away. Among the sim
pie fishermen of Procida, Ischia and Capri
you will find none of the fiery Masaniellos,
like that inspired one who in 1647 cried
"Morte al NAL governor and at the head of
his wild followers wrung something like
liberty from the cruel Spanish viceroy.
There were from $1,000 to $1,000 of these
fishermen and waterside lazzaroni once here.
A few dreamful-eyed beings in rags are
heard to mutter '.signor?'' here and .'sig
nory'' there as their shiny hands are up
raised for aims, and "grazzia !-grazzia! 70
as they get them. But the most of these
wretched souls who once made Naples the
most notorious, dreaded and picturesque
are now at work on your aqueducts in your
mines, upon your apartment buildings, and
at shining your boots until they reflect the
sun like Tuscan grape, and are tasting the
sweets of real liberty in our land of toll and
reward. The ''slums of Naples" are no
more. Twenty million dollars, furnished
by the Italian government, is being expend-
ed by the municipality of Naples to utterly
obliterate their former foul breeding places;
to districts, once housing 10000 people,
chiefly of this class. is being rebuilt along
widened streets SO that this glorious south
ern sun may shine in upon 10000 decent
homes. EDGAR L. WAKEMAN.