The Portland daily press., 1890-09-01
THE HON e.

| Oub anu llOnCu otIdiSubS WAAAO HOsS aASOA Az
has become bent.
In sewing foundation and 'drop" skirt
to the same belt always have the latter ar
ranged to hang about quarter of an inch
shorter than the edge of the braid, as the
weight of the material part is heavier than
the lining and falls longer when worn.
In making a gathered or pleated back
always have the placket opening on one side,
as 1t is easier fastened there. and is not as
likely to cape open. All of the news re-
| of the sleeves agreeing with the trimming or
second material used in the costume.
Skirt Innings are now made two and FIVE
elghths yards wide with drop skirt from
| is laid in four plaits in the back, one or two
| double box-plaits or gathered.
| A rubber band Is shown in all colors to
take the place of the skirt braid. 1t is six
cents for three yards, and is hemmed down
on the wrong side similar to skirt braid,
with just the edge showing. Two yards and
twenty inches is good width for walking
skirts, which are not universally worn to
touch, owing to the abundance Of women
| who detest a dirty skirt.
Blue is certainly not the color to be chosen
women's wear. The fair skin looks cold
| enough, and when blue, especially pale blue,
desirable, because what Was clear white be-
| fore becomes pallor now. Blondes had
| much better wear any of the rose shades,
warm brown or dark green. leaving the very
trying pale blue to the brown-haired lassie
with bright color, or the warm brunette
whose skin does not know the unsightly
touch of sallownesS.
When basques are worn out around the
arm sizes the worn part may be concealed by
shoulder to the side front seam or the band
may go entirely around the arm size.
Alpaca skirt facings do not wear well and
silesia may be substituted.
For very stout figures slight drapery in
| front is more becoming than plain front,
but the sides should be of fat style as the
| hips are generally very prominent.
Although the majority Of sensible women
have in a great degree overruled the dress
makers, who have insisted that short walk
ing skirt is passel and questionable, and
in the end prevailed against their protests
| of shortening the demi-train now imminent
| as sidewalk sweeper, there are enough who
| have adopted the walking skirts of senseless,
untidy length to prove that fashion has still
a formidabls army of blind, enthusiastic,
plastic followers, lead where she may.
Nothing is more offensive than the view Of
seml-long skirt after weeks wear upon our
streets-a frayed skirt hem, tatters, garbage
scraps, tobacco ends, mud and gutter filth
strong language, but euphemistic express
ions can hardly be employed in describing
the precise state of a dress cut as fashion
dictates, and let to trail in the dust and
ashes ashes: Perhaps , few emphatic, truthful
ing this minor crime Of seriously threaten
ing ilthiness.
THE COUNTRY GIRL.
A country girl always has an idea that the
advantages of city girl are not hers-that
she suffers from a lack of something-she
doesn't exactly know what. She is convin-
| of fha oir ri in fha oif ~
every opportunity to look at fine pictures,
read choice books and cultivate her mind.
| Now, when she generalizes in this way she
| is simply showing herself to be narrow and
| ignorant. The girl in the country to-day
can get exactly the same papers and books
that come to the girl in the city. Her think
ing hours are longer, and very often she sees
more of real, sweet home life. She is apt to
learn that most beautiful industry, how to
be good housewife, and over the bread-pan
| or the churn she can think as great thoughts
| as she would over the elaborate fancy work
| or in the picture gallery. She can study
flowers as they grow; she can breathe the
| good, pure air of heaven, which makes
| healthy body-and that usually means
| healthy soul-and she can learn whatever she
wishes. Intellectually, she can control her
self, and she may know, in books at least,
the best trained and finest minds Of the, GEN.
| fury. Here there is no danger OF her learn
ing to speak slang. Among these people
| virtues are respected and vices are con-
| demned, and she is thrown into society
which she will neverl regret and which Will
| always be a credit to her.
Do you know, you girls in the country, that
| you can smell the flowers and gather them,
| while we in the city look at them with the
| glass of the florists window between US.
| And a bought flower never has the charm
| possessed by that which is plucked by ones
| self. If there is anybody to envy it is the
| girl In the country.-Ladies Home journal.
HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS.
Take one fourth more money than your
| estimated expenses.
Acquaint yourself with the geography of
| the route and region [of travel.
Have good supply of small change, and
no bill or piece higher than ten dollars. tat
| you may not take counterfeit change.
| So arrange as to have but a single article
of luggage to look after, if possible.
Dress substantially. Better to be hot for
| two or three hours at noon than to be cool
| for the remainder of the twenty -four.
Arrange, under all circumstances. to be at
| the place of starting fifteen or twenty min
| utes before the time, thus allowing fer una
voidable or unanticipated detention on the
way.
Do not begin a days travel before break
| fast, even IL it has to be eaten at daylight.
Dinner or supper, or both, can be more
heartily dispensed with than a good warm
| UI6dkldoL.
Put your purse and watch in your. vest
pocket and all under your pillow, and you
will not be likely to leave either.
The best if not entirely secure fastening
of your chamber door is bolt on the inside;
| If there is none on, lock the door, turn the
key so that 1t can be drawn partly out, and
put the wash basin under 1t; thus any at
tempt to use a jimmy or another key Will
push it out and cause a racket among the
crockery which will be pretty sure to rouse
clQpnpr rnhhQr Il
| of Health.
| PARLoRs THAT CRUSH OUT HOME LIFE.
| Did you ever hear of tyrannical parlors.
The costly carpets and curtains, the expen-
sive ornaments, give subdued tone to the
room destructive to real hospitality and good
times. A neighborhood social met from
| house to house. One of the members was
bright boy; his mother had one Of these
| tyrannical parlors, given up to formality and
short calls. The bright boy said at one of
the meetings 81 would like to invite you
| to my house, but we never have good times
at our stuck-up drawing ROOM" The little
| fellow felt the difference between his own
home surroundings and that of some others
| Of the social club. At one house the parents
made the house so attractive that the boys
and girls Of the family said they would
rather be at home than anywhere else." The
carpet was not too nice to play blind mans
buff on. The chairs and tables were not heavy
and cumbersome, but were light enough to be
tucked away. leaving clear space. The
children were encouraged to get up charades
and tableaux. A magic lantern exhibition
| added variety, and now and then card
party. but that was very wrong" says one
stern parent. No! father and mother took
| a hand in the game and there was not so
| much danger that the children would seek
| questionable pleasures. in Improbable
| places.-Christian at Work.
BRAISING.
| The word "braise" means to cook meat
slowly in a closely covered pan in the oven,
the pan containing sufficient water to keep
upa goodly quantity of steam, The meat
should be placed in the bottom OF the pan,
| the pan partly filled with boiling water
| teaspoonful of salt added, a sllced onlop' Z, q
carrot, sprig of parsley. and pay ieat, 81 IL
| liked. Now cover the pan closely ana placee
| on the bottom of moderately hot oven. anu
bake or cook fifteen minutes to every ponnd
of meat, basting every half hour. Meat tnus
| cooked should be of delicate brown, Juicy
and tender. You can not roast In Dralslng
pan,-meat Is always dry and tasteless.
brown sauce should be made from Drowned
putter and flour and the liquor from the
pottom VI the braising pan. No more de-
lgntlui dish can possibly be served than
praised fresh beefs tongue. The following
meats are desirable for braising: leg of