Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-04-10
Spring Fancies Unfolding in the
Domains Of Dress and Home.
A Saunter Through Millinery GlOries,
With Occasional PauSes Over a
Heavenly Bonnet"
The SprIngtime that Comes After Gentle Annie
is Transformed Into a Housekeeper.
Jottings 10y the Way

by some sacrilegious wretch, who certainly has
not the fear of woman before his eyes, that this
IenteE abstinence Is a bit OF shrewd calculation
by which the reduced grocer bills counter-bal-
ance the augmented bills of milliner and mantua-
maker.
The reward of wcll-doing may come in the
shape of an entire new costume, and in no other
shape could it be as welcome to the average
woman. Since the times when to have bon
net for each season was an extravaganza that
only the rich could afford, there has been much
change, but although IN these days
bonnet goes with each costume not one
has quite the Importance of the
Easter bonnet that fairly turns as well as oTna-
ments the head of beauty. If, as tradition has
it, the sun dances on Easter morning, pray why
should not the heart of woman rejoice, when ar
rayed in spic-span new garments she lightly
walks the rath leading TO church, and when
singing glad praises Is all the light-hearted
that amid the decorations that betoken new life
the pretty temple OF her sweet soul has not been
The past week has brought many delicious an
ticpatory peeps at beautiful headgear, and
where, amid so many entangnng streameTS ana
prickng pins, to find q hating place and words
TO convey 10 the reader an idea of the varied
beauties, Is not easy.
So far as this season s work has any distinct
i've feature il Is included in the of the fancy
straw, the straw pSssementerIe, gauze ribbon,
and few minor details which chiefly devel-
opments from the ideas of former work.
Thus the pasSementerie shows some newly
emphasized pecularities, such as the vandyke
point, which has taken as complete possession
of the millinery as of every other kingdom under
Fashions reign. The employment OF balls and
beads IS another paSSementerlc idea Whlch re-
Celyes added attention and extends to many va
carries. even strings of the colored beads so long
worn by children being used on the daIntlest
hornets.
While it is true that silver and gilt are abun
dainty used, Jet has lost none of its popularity.
roll
the points finished by large balls cut TO reflect
light at every angle. A narrow pointed edg:ng
OF jet frequently T. ms around the brlm OF bon
net over bright colorS, and among the pattern
hats are those OF jet open work that show the
hair through the meshes. Gold and silver
galore describes accurately the use OF these
brilliant accessories to the love OF bonnet. In
many, the entire crown Is network OF heavy
gold and silver cord with colored velvet run
through the mesheS. Pearl paSsementeries are
used with charming effect in connection with
well chosen CO ;ors. All the tinsel fancies have
their beauty enhanced by the illuminating effect
OF pretty new shades of color. Dragon flies and
butterflies hover and settle among
drifts of white lace, and the material that Is
deity used IN making that mystery, woman s
bonnet. Of that bonnet II may be said 1t has all
seasons for its own. Eiffel red butterflies, that
look like autumn leaves, tremble on spiral
stems over gay branches of golden rod, and
jeweIed bees sucking sweet juices from
fruits that have not vet been formed in NATURES
workshop. Velvet, that is peculiarly winters
fabric, launts itself in great flowers, amid
springs blossoms that are nature 6 self. Black
gwen the yellow centers which are conspicuous
in all the flower work where 1t is possible to run
them without too gross violation OF natural
DEGREES.
Lace barbes in black and white are used. and
somewhat extravagantly. The scarfs forming or
oTnamentng the hats fall in exaggerated lengths
AT the back, TO be carried about the tmOa and
enyelop the bodice in front.
Ornamental pins with large heads much
used. while the little pins thickly Strewu
usual. Wide ribbon bows, set on the back of
hats, are brought forward over the crown IN
long loops, fastened by these small pins in the
fashions so prevalent two summers since. Some
toques are shirred in melon style. and tiny cap
bonnets are SHRED around and around. Straw
IS made into separate crowns and into flexible
ribbon. which is Topped In with velvet or crepe,
generally the latter. Perhaps the most novel
trimming Is made by drawing the threads of silk
ribbon 10 the width of inch more in the
center, then folding through the middle of the
drawn space, giving doubled fringe; this is re-
peated in gold by the of fine and very pliable
gold braid or cord. doubled, and seWed under
the edge of velvet or silk.
In COlorS wide margin is allowed, but chaste
taste will always exhibit itself whatever license
IS granted. White Is well but not largely used;
the latter work win probably show more OF it.
White snowballS are beautiful il black lace, and
are much better exc uted than usual. Magenta
is revived in clear, pure tint, notably in the
large single roses with a crowd OF yellow sta
mems, the roses that grow on the low bushes
shout the farmhouse door.
The puppies Of all shades are run with black;
on a broad black lace hat punches of GlaCs
massed behind with long green stems. like violet
stems, twisted in a heavy rope that encircles the
crown. The puppies are run alone. as in egg
plant, with no relief save that given by the
varying tones shown in the different materials
employed. Purple and gold is always striking,
as Is green and gold: green velvet of very rich
shade Is edged with doubled fringe or gold.
A creation which is wholly indeScribable, and
vet too exuuisitelv lovely to be LETT undescribed
combines the new dawn pink with blue, also of
the morning clouds; the hat-topped toques is of
the pink in French crepe, with full crown and
quilted brim edge: four-iuch ribbon Of blue
game, with narrow satin stripes, is Topped
around the front, and, passing 10 the back, falls
IN long streamers; upon the top rests fat mat
ol passementerle maze OF me unset cord colled
81 little mats and wound about III OblOng leaves;
this pasSementerie, which pushes the pink crepe
ont IN pun at the back and confines IL around
the sides is in the same shades of pink and blue,
with equally delicate green and yellow; II
ever q bonnet merited the term which ecstatIc
women sometimes OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES this
one should be accorded il, such a delicate fancy
belongs to clOundland undoubtedly
Much of an allotted space has been devoted to
spring millinery, but II IS not TO be supposed
that this VIII create much dissatisfaction among
the fair readers of this column, and 10 those
only Is reserved the right to Cayil.
The spring and summer gowninC viii conspicu-
ousiy exhibit the quaint and charming sim
phclty as we'll as the Infinite variety that is
copied from the styles ofthe Eighteenth century
And what Is more pleasing than the pretty
waists straight fun skirts aud picturesoue col
lars and Bertha sleeves, SasheS and hats that
faithfully copy the costumes of that period.
Prom the notes OF disapproval that are found in
articles on dress IN the different journals, il
seems certain that there is persistent effor; be-
ing made to lengthen skirts even in walking
dresses Tins fashion II applied 10 street dresses
has nothing 20 commend il, and everything 10
urge against IL; Tor q more Untldy. sJnCle8nly
fashion Is hard to conceive. While II is true the
mutton leg sleeve is worn. il Is also true that
the loose fitting coatslceve Is not obsolete
There is-a manifest lingering over the fashion
Of sleeves differing from the dress, fashion
strongly Endorsed by Felix Of Paris. Dresses of
thin fabric have PLAIN and plaid material and
made with sleeves and 0rSpiHgs Of the plaid
and the gown proper % the plain. a pretty
modern finish to the bodice IS q pointed belt OF
black ne worked with let, or. if preferred many
models come with shaped bands or belts of
metal GALLONS starting from the side seams and
forming point IN front French dreSsmakers !
are dispensing as much as possible with seams
that show IN the bodice. The lining is
made 70 fiJ the figure perfectly in glove
IKE closeness and then the outer goods
SO folded and draped 10 make the mode OF
exit and entrance . mystery. There is a slight
indication that entirely plain skirts have had
-heir day. Many Of the foulsrds are made with
CaughU-up skirts, and others. while retaining
the vertical flutes in the back breadths have the
fronts arranged IN folds that sometimes de-
scribed as vertical festooned folds. In striped
material the back denl-JralD the stripes run in
s vertical direction and the sides the stripes /
are set diagonally and form points in inc center '
Of the tablier- This rule IS observed IN the |
fronts of the bodice and IN the back the line of
the deni-train is followed. The Tule IS IN no
sense irou-clad, as they are often arranged TO |
give the effect OF enyeloping the figure in
cuirsSs of ZiEgazo.
I,fara =. -o,nisa sE.t a.. -,,,st,,-,,, ,ts, 49,