St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-10-12

tCCGHtrlCitleS VI 1dSiilOll CduiIOI idii "
observe that after several seasons when
exaggerated ornamentation is the prev
alent feature, there comes reaction,
and an almost Quaker-like plainness will
be remarked in the neck dressing. Plain,
fiat bands have hitherto been the only
thing admissible in the neck of gowns;
but now anything is full ABOUT the
Threats, land one of the latest novelties IS
deep fall of empire or malineS lace
surmounted by full ruching of ribbon
or silk. / don't know what monarch or
court beauty of old is responsible for
this monStroSity, but it gives the aver
age female humpy appearance, which
is not altogether fascinating. 1t is not
SO with the soft, fluffy ostrich boas that
seems almost an intangible as the
wrath of a summer cloud, but are quite
warm withal and delightful to wrap
about the neck during the coollSh au-
tumnal days.
What with feather boas. capes and
headgear rifieG from the birds of the
air, the fashionable dame or demoiselle
bears close affinity to species of the
feathered tribe. There are big gray or
black Vandyke hats bent into all sorts
of Outre shapes and loaded with ostrich
tips OF birds. There are closer ones in
which orioles or blackbirdS' wings are
arranged somewhat to resemble those
on Mercury's helmet, or there are stiff
bands composed of the plumage of tiny
yellow or red sOngsterS set on to a
putting of dark velvet. A hat which
imparts dashing air to the young
debutante is the picturesque Duchess
of Devonshire, with its long Amazon
plume, which caresSeS the throat of the
fn mir xyif
tresses of her hair.
The matching mania is apparently on
the increase, and the nearer woman
can come to assimilating the color of
her hat and veil with the tint of her
hair the more chic she is supposed TO be-.
Among the most stylish shades are
blondine and Titan. both dyed in sim
ulatiOn of the tresSes of women of the
warm-hued type of beauty. There
seems to be reaction in the color idea,
some of the latest authorities taboOing
the blonde, who insists upon asserting
her prerogative in the wearing of the
blue, warning her that the juXtapo-
sition is damaging to the color
ing of her eyes and making them
appear faded by contrast. RuSkin be-
lieves that blonde can as safely don
the yellow robe as stand in ray of
sunlight, and it is certain that the old
time ideas as to the marring of certain
tints and colors have suffered decided
change. Titlan-tinted women can wear
buttercup-colored gowns with sweet
Consciousness that makes a most effect
i've background for their rudy locks,
and even the DlondeSt of blondes by a
judicious interposition of softesJ tulle
can remedy the deadening effect on her
complexion and defy unkind criticism.
-
The amaranth, dahlia and amethystine
shades are more specially created for
the fair-Skinned woman, and arrayed in
toilet composed of these colOrs she
may have the proud consciousness that
she looks her best, and cannot be
doWned by her proud rivals with fash
ing eyes and ebony tressess, who can
array themselves in Spanish yellows
and vivid scarletS.
The umbrella case gown is the most
stylish thing out, but perhaps you
don't quite know what mean. 1t has
a skirt that is tightly drawn across the
limbs, and it is adjusted to the figure by
number of tiny cores at the waist.
Sitting down in this tight-itting affair
is perllous experiment, as in this posi-
ton the front breadthS are apt to draw
up and reveal more of the feet and
ankles than is permitted by the strict
code of decorum. With the sheath
skirt petticoats must be discarded and
the limbs encased in silken tights. like
those OF a trapeze performer or ballet
girl.
The anti-petticoat faction is composed
of the women who are the fortunate
possessors of Venus de Milo forms. OF
who are under the delusiOn that they
resemble the pagan divinity. Garment
| ed in gossamer-like fieshingS and hablted
in a fourreau skirt which clingS to hel
| as closely as the paper to the wall, she
walks abroad, a successful advertise
| ment for her dreSSmaker and herself
| She does not seem to imagine In the
| least that she is as near an approach Il
| Lady GOdiva as is permissible in this
| Anthony Comstock age, and if any one
demonstrates she can triumphantly as
| sert her right to appear atIired in the
latest mode sanctioned by autocratit
| fashion.
The fourreau frock style of woman
| must look we'll to her foot wear, a:
nothing but the most immaculate Of
| hose and the trimmest of shoes are ad
missible: she had better be sure of hel
| pedal eXtremitles, and she can better
| afford to do this as she has escheweC
the feminine petticoat. Should sht
still have vague desire toward femi
ninity, she can sew lace Galayeuse
| OIL the inside of her skirt, which viii
| successfully simulate the petticoat worn
by the softer sex, and at least deceive
masculine observers. In fact, there i:
| nothing to interfere with the exhibition
of rounded limbs moulded in perfect
| fitting costume, whose revelations
| would almost have put mother Eve Il
the blush after her dislodgement from
the Garden of Eden.