Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-28

| the making the question of drapery or
skimpiness becomes serious. The fayorite
| skirt now seems to be this one the most
| simply made, falling straight and full
from the waist. To most figures nothing
can be more attractive or becoming. A
very tall, slight figure should have some
thing less severe. A slight drapery is
easily arranged by the skirt being caught
up with loops OF ribbon.
| Ladies returning from the various sum-
mer resorts ell route for home have lin
gered a few days IN the larger cities, and
they report that the day of frills and
fiounces is here. A promenade up Broad
way, for instance, is convincing. Frills
! and founces-that's what they are
frills about the neck and fiounces at the
hem of the skirt. just the real old FASH
| Toned plated or gathered fiounces that
had TO go on the bottom of q gown'a few
years ago, quite as much as the braid
| binding.
Still many women are alive to the fact
| that these gowns are neither artistic nor
| economical, and prefer elegance in one
made for the street in this fashion. If
the materials selected are of plain aud
plaid having also the border that almost
! universally comes with plain wool goods
| this season, the skirt Is plated. 1t has q
| panel of the plain goods In narrow plaits;
| on either side of the panel the border is
! arranged in straight lines. Close fitting
| bodice, with revers and straight vest
with point; the rever5 and front of the
| bodice are finished with the border.
| Sleeves full ut the shoulders and PLAIN
| behind. Collar, cuffs and belt of the
| border material.
While good taste must lean to quiet
| dressing on the street. and green can
hardly be considered color to meet this
| demand, there is apparent a purpose TO
| use it in street dresses for the fall and
winter, and, subdued as in the following
description, is not SO Objectionable. The
| dress proper is of fawn rolored cloth over
petticoat of dark green velvet. TIE
skirt is very slightly draped in front, but
is plated behind and hangs perfectly
plain, and opens on each side to show the
green, the edge being braided with green
silk braid. The bodice is pointed in front
aud finished behind with the plain finish
of riding habit. 1t opens with revers
faced with the velvet. over a white vest
embroidered with the green. The long
| tight sleeves are slightly gathered OH the
| shoulders aud oruamented with the
bTaiding at the wrists. To make this
| handsome toilet complete there is to wear
with it u large hat of fawn colored felt,
with trimming and plume of dark green.
Although there are many new weaves
| in wool the well-tried and favorite cash
mere retains its holl on popular favor.
| A very pretty home costume Is OF plain
| cashmere, straight, plain skirt slightly
full at the sides and front, aud in plaits
at the back The sides and back of the
waist are close fitting; the front has
square yoke, with full vest set on with
q shirrred ruffle. Straight collar; sleeves
very full at the shoulders and PLAIN Ut
the wrists, with braided cuffs. Wide
sash of fancy silk, with drop and ball
fringe.
A handsome co stume for one dressing
in mourning requires henrietta cloth.
The dress is OF this combined with crepe,
princess body; the skirt in sections be-
tween which are insertions of crepe; the
back Is in box plaits. The body is close
fitting, with graduated revers over
straight vest Of the crepe. Sleeves full
at the shoulders aud plain below, with
trimming of buttons. Plain collar.
Afternoon receptions promise to be
leading feature in gay life, and this of
course involves tea gowns. Some ex-
tremely handsome ones are being made
of nun s yelling and camel's hair. These
gowns are cut in Greek style aud trim
med with gold and silver passementerie
laid over white or heliotrope bands.
Some of the many ct ceteras of autumn
costumes are suits made up in combina-
ton with Tartan surahs, and en- suite are
black velvet sailor hats with feather
trimmings, and black velvet pelerIues
lined with the plaided silk and trimmed
with q neck-piece of ostrich feathers.
Gray Tartan silk shirt waists are worn
with dark skirts of various kinds.
Bright red silk blouses are made with
deeply pointed yoke at the back, straight
shirt sleeves, a turn-down collar, and
cuffs feather stitched with black silk or
with color. Black lusrrous silk blouses
have black velvet Jokes, silk sleeves
with velvet cuffs and a velvet girdle.
Notes.
The cape for street and evening wear
is going to yield to the longer mautelette,
it is predicted. These will be caught at
the belt line in the back, and will fall
low in front.
A ruflle around the bottom of the skirt
is the distinguishing feature of all the
new gowns.
The Madame de Stael bonnet, or
rather turban, is among the stylish
things in headgear for early autumn. 1t
is made of two bands of jet with soft
puff of velvet between.
In ell house and carriage gowns the
boots must be made to match the pre-
vailiug color of the costume.
The Medici collar is on bodlces and
outside garments of all kinds, and is of
most varied size.
Camel s. hair rivals faced cloths for
tailor gowns, and is combined with vel
vet, which may be braided in metal OF
silk cords.
A panier skirt turned up towards the
hips, like the laveuse drapery of long
ago, is part of some OF the cloth gowns
recently brought from Paris. The short,
round front is taken up in folds on the
sides, and the long back has all its full
ness drawn in q very narrow space at the
waist line.
Black lace flounces grow in favor for
trimming silks and velvets, and worth
has the daring to festoon them on the
light CLOTH gowns now worn in the even
leg, while some of the famous Paris
miiliners are trimming felt hats with
black lace.
Moiiers shoes, with a high Zap and