The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-03-20

( Gently that by neglecting to tutor the sense
of smelling people are constantly led to
/ breathe impure air, and thus poison the body
/ by neglecting the warning given at tho gate
Of the lungs. Those who use perfumes are
more sensitive to the presence of vitiated at
mosphere than those who either consider the
| faculty OF smelling as useless gift or do not,
through ignorance, appreciate the good de-
rived from keeping the smelling organ IN
good condition.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Being curious to know how perfumers cap
ture these subtle fragrances that puzzle the
wills of would he eItractors, the writer
called upon Boston firm who manufacture
ali kinds of perfumes and cologneS
"The art Of perfumery is a wonderful one,
said the chemist Is and one which Is not gen
orally understood. To be a successful per
fumer, one must have good nose for differ
ent Odors, just as much as a newspaper man
must of necessity possess the note for news
before he can make a good journalist. To
the unlearned nose all odors are alike, but
when tutored, either for pleasure or profit,
no member of the body is more sensitive.
Wine merchants, tea brokers, drug dealers,
tobacco importers and others have to go
through a regular nasal course of training.
"The following are the principal odors
used in perfumes: Rose, cinnamon, musk,
heliotrope, geranium stock and pinks, jas
mine, violet, tonquin bean, orange flower,
vanilla, sweet pea, orris, balsam of peru, per-
galaria, castor, calamus, clematis, santal,
Glove, storax, wallfower, patchouly, civet,
verbena, citronella, pineapple, peppermint,
lavender, magnolia, ambergris, cedrat, ber-
gamot, mint, syringa, jonquille, Portugal
almond. camphor. southernwood, vernal
grass new hay, tuberose, acacia.
FLOWERS yield perfumes in all climates,
but those growing in the warmer ATTITUDES
are more prolific in their odor, while those
from the colder are the sweetest"
docs the odor of plants always reside il
the blossomw
mot always; sometimes in the root, as In
the iris and vitivert; the stem or wood in
cedar and santal; the leaves in mint, patch
ouly and thyme; the flower in the roses and
violets; the seeds in the tonquin bean and
caraway; the bark in cinnamon, etc. The
odors of flowers are more generally secreted
during sunshine, but there are some which
yield no odor in the daytime, but are very
fragrant in the evening Flowers plucked
the secretion of odor is at its height. 1t is a
strange fact that white flowers are the most
fragrant and pleasing to the smell, while the
brown coIored flowers are of little use to the
perfumer."
"Are not flowers cultivated for pertaining
purposes in some parts Of the United StatesW
Decidedly not Our climate, or climates,
are peculiar, but not adapted for this pur-
pose"
EXTRACTING THE DOORS.
SLOW is the odor extracted from the flower
or plantp
1.-The plant, or that part of it which con-
tains the odoriferous principle, is placed in
an iron, copper or glass pan, varying in size
from that capable of holding from one to
twenty gallons, and covered with water; to
the pan a dome shaped lid is fitted. termi-
mating with a pipe which is twisted cork
screw fashion and fixed in a bucket. This
apparatus is called still. in which the
water is caused to boil, and, having DO other
exit, the steam must pass through the cooled
pipe, which, being surrounded by cold water
in the bucket condensss the vapor before it
can arrive at the tap. With the steam the
volatile oil, that is the perfume, rises and is
liquefied at the same time and is preserved.
Another process, which is now becoming
quite common, is the pomade process, or
maceration. The operation is conducted
thus: a certain quantity of purified lard is
put into clean metal or porcelain pan; this
being melted by steam heat or bath. The
kind of flowers required for the odor wanted
are carefully picked and placed in contact
with the liquid fat and allowed to remain
from twenty-four to forty-eight hours.
''The fat bas particular affinity or attrac-
ton for the otto OF flowers, and, as it were,
draws it out of them and becomes itself by
their aid highly perfumed. The fat is strained
from the spent flowers, and fresh flowers are
added ten or fifteen times over till the po-
made is of the required strength. The pomade
is then packed in cans and is ready for trans
portation. The next thing to do when the
odor that lies in the fat is to be converted
into cologne is to extract 1t from the lard.
This is done by a simple process of permeating
the fat with highly distilled alcohol. which is
called cologne spirits. the cologne spirits
takes every particle Of the odor from the lard;
it is then placed in scaled jars and is allowed
to stand for at least twelve months before it
Is converted into perfumery for the market.
As with wine, the longer 1t stands the more
virtue there Is in it.
Perfumes, it is well known, are also de-
rived from animals The musk OK and deer,
the civet, an animal much resembling the
common cat, and the whale furnish odors
known as musk and ambergris. The perfume
known as civet is probably one Of the oldest
perfumes known. The odor of civet is best
impaired, not by actual contact, but By be-
ing placed in the neighborhood OF absorbent
materials. Thus, when tpread on leather
and placed in a writ4sg desk, it perfumes the
paper and envelopes delightfully."-, 50 much 50
that they retain the odor after passing
through the mails. Valentines are scented
IN this way
Undoubtedly toe perfume known as Few
nown hay is the most popular Of perfumes.
The fragrance Of hay Is one II The most
l. natural fhaf