Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1890-10-25
MIR. wAKEMAN,s JOURNEYINGs
At StrathgIass, Scotland-The Jour
ney From FasnakyIe-Scenes Along
the Route-FIaxen-4air BARNS
Ebbulent with Life and Joyous


Ebbulent with Life and Joyous
ness.
STRATHGLAss, Scotland, Sept. 16.
To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
1t was an earnest welcome that came to
me from the indwellers at the sweet old
lonely manse of Fasnakyle in the heart of
grand Strathglass among the grim peaks
of northern Scotland. Though the night
was already falling like dark wing from
the crags as we descended from the stage
coach, the situation and surroundings of
the manse could be vaguely discerned.
The great strath stretched east and west
for half days journey in front. The
river Glass, from whence Strathglass de-
rives it's name, swept by the very edge of
the coach-road beside us with strong, even
flow, and a sort of half roar and song over
its level though rocky bed. Behind, to
the north, perhaps dozen acres of land,
a part of which belonged to the manse,
was formed in q sort of horse-shoe-like
pocket, or dell, behind which rose the
mountains to lofty heights, and down
whose rough old sides, through tiny
burns, came melodious rills, which here
and there, beneath the road, leaped and
tumbled into the Glass below Larches
grim, tall and wraith-like in the shadows,
half hid the manse and its low stone out
buildings; and the lights streaming
through the great doors and windows,
flung fantastic shadow-scenes of waving
larch and happy children along the walks
of gravel white as snow.
There in the great door were the house
hold members, all gathered for the coming
of their head and the stranger. The guild
wife first, fine and tall, grand in the ply
sique of the old Morse race from which
she sprang, gave us gentle, earnest greet
| ing Then came the minister's assistant
| pure Gael, huge and angular, but with {
manhood in his face and grasp in his hand
| which did one good to see and feel Ther
two domestics, shy, voiceless Highland
girls, who knew little of English, bu
much of everyday duty. These and tn,
faxen-haired BARNS in every attitude ant
| place beamed kindness and welcome
Soon supper is served in the roomy dining
room, off the great hall. This room alst
answers for the two clerics' study and Ii
brary In the few minutes intervening
between our arrival and the meal the fiv,
BARNS, ebbulant with life and joyousness
have bade the stranger goodnight, and ar
hushed in slumber. The minister's assis
tant says grace with that honesty of faitl
and feeling that thrills to ones heart as
genuine blessing. The meal, modes
enough in itself, yet delicious in its snow.
scones, crisp bacon, fresh-laid eggs, an,
honest Highland cream and butter, is Civ
en- the sparkling zest of perfect hospitalit,,
devoid of offensive protestation, and tina
sweetest of all converse issuing from pur
hearts, healthful bodies and cultured in
tellects; and is all too short after an hour
duration Then the guidwife excuses her
self for bit; the shy domestics enter ant
remove the cloth and belongings; ant
then, oh, horror to the super sensitive
some good old honest Highland pipes
black as the night behind the window
panes are brought; and in the "aul'
| reelie" of their rings and wreaths tw
hours come and go in talk and tales of tn
and the cloth is again laid by the silen
landmarks, before we are aware The
the guidwife returns and "porridge," hoi
steaming hot, with pints and pints Q
cream, are served. This disposed, the sh
maidens return, each with book in he
hand They seat themselves and al
handed a similar book. Its title is, eth
Scottish Psalter," being "The Psalms i
Meter, with the Paraphrases and Selet
ton of the Prose Psalms" The book
cut entirely through the contents, betwee
the covers, the ''Sol-Fa" system of note
being printed at the top, and the part
phrases beneath. Suddenly a to m
strange threnody filled the room. Fiv
treble voices had broken forth into a mos
impressive chant:
Key G..
Im:- Ir:dIf: i'm: : Ir:t, d:r {. - ct
The heavens declare the glory of-God;
and the flrma ment showeth his handywork.
, Q Day unto day utter eth speech, and nigl
, unto night :. showeth knowledge
and thus, with quaver, rapid utterance
sustained notes, and with frequent solem
pauses, they swept through the fourtee
} verses of Psalm XIX.
J Then, after this weird and Joyous cant
; Gle, followed prayer by the minister
Fasnakyle 1t was none of YOUR haltin