New-York tribune., 1890-04-20

too weary to resent his impudcnce. but
retired to the only gucst-room of the posada-a
rough shed with a small window ana door
which could neither be locked nor barrcd-and
slept the sleep of utter exhaustion. AT dawn
was aroused by the guide, whose nine mules
were already saddled and packed for the days
march. Warned by the previous days expert
cnce | insisted upon having coffee served nciore
we started, and upon making arrangements Tor
a breakfast at the next posada, winch we rcached
at ! 0 o'clock Here an excellent soup with meat,
bread and coffee invigorated me 1or thc nara
riding of the day-ovcr forty miles of mountain
climbing and valley cantcring.
MOUNTAIN sPECTACLEs
From the dcfc of Villa Vicencio entered the
previous afternoon, had begun the ascent of the
Paromillos and about l o'clock in the afternoon
we were At the summit, 5000 feet above sea
level and $500 feet above Mendoza. The seen
cry had increased in grandeur every hour since
daybrcak. and now two magnificent spectaclcs
were TO bc enjoyed The first broad view
Of the Cuyo Valley, southwark and eastward
with Mendoza its shaded streets. its plazas and
IFS suburban farms and vineyards directly below
us and so near that with a glass streets ana
houses could he identified The second was an
,nspiring glimpse of the main Andean chain now
suddenly towering thousands of feet above us III
the west First Juncal was seen, with its black
crown strcakcd with snowdrifs, and then aeon.
caeua King of the Andes, III solemn majesty 00kcu
down upon us from the coudss Then WITH sn"rp
turn in the brde-path hundred snow-clads are
revealed at oncc-a spectacle that hIcs t!ic nl"oh
of the American traveller. and induces him 10
salute the suspected Chian guide with loud
outcries of "Magnifico." Magnco. Nature
has worked here stnpcndOus scale that one
is overcome with the evidences of power. Iiis
mighty wall of continuous SUBMITS is nearly
-. 900 feet at the highest. and nowhere save AT
the spa laa notch less than 10000 feet. II rises
boldly and abruptly from the valley at the base
of the Paramillos / 1000 feet to and beyond
the snow line. As seen from the crests OF the
Eastern range the prccpt0uS mountain HANKS
seem to have been thrown up almost vertically,
and to have been strcwn with the wrcckagc oi
ancient glaciers II is late in the summer now.
and the snowdrifts in which few months ago
the mountain sides were embedded have shrnnk
and wasted away feeding swollen lakes and
roaring torrents but those majestic slmmtS. with
their sub-Arctic climate, can never be bare. If
there are sharp peaks. with polished sides Ike
the flanks of AcOncagua. The snow may sl'ie down
and find lodement in frowning ravincs underneath:
but the snow-drfts are always there-erminc llt
for these Andean kings to wear about their
shoulders.
The SUBMITS of the Paramiilos swept by
cold winds. and the ground and stuntcd bushes
are covered with snow. There can be no halt
in so dcsOlate Il spot although the vista OF the
wall of snow-clads is incomparaby glorious, and
will never again be seen TO equal advantage. Inc
tnkc Of the mule leaders bell keeps the cavalcadc
From the crest descend hour after hour 10
the gorge Of tspallata. where at sunset the best
hotel known in the mountains is reached. here
all sense of loneliness is removed by the arrival
Of parties of travellers from Chill, and The day
closes with comfortable dinner and good cheer.
In the morning came magnificent sght-s'nrlsc
i'm the spallata Valley The Paranilos IN the
east flank the Andes north and south. The sun
light. santng upward over tho outer wall. touches
the snow-pcaks of the Cordera. and changes
them from mnrky white TO vivid scarlet. while
underneath
main Obscurcd in shadow. Gradually the spaces
below the snowdrifts catch the light. and are
transformed from dusky gray to warm crimson
fringed with olive vcrdurc at the base. The
shadow line is now al the bottom of the Andcan
wall Slowly il rcccdeS across the intervening
valley and shrinks and disappears on the western
side OF the Paranios The spallata is a splendid
blaze of color The monarchs Of tine Andes robe
in scarlet and crimson. are crowned with majesty
beftting their high estate
THE MFNDOI, GORGE.
The third days ride for which 7 again took
precautions to fortify myself by stout break
fast. from Uspaata to Pnta Las Vacas
distance of forty miles toward the heart Of the
Andes The left bank Of the Mendoza River is
followed closely. the road leading over rock and
gravel the greater part Of the way. The noun
tans are wall on the right hand ana on tre
left 1t is a long winding gorge. through which
the spring frcshcts have cut their way, tunnc!llng
through gigantic masses Of rock and undermining
the foundations of the mountains. The road Is
a bridle-path curvlng around boudcrs and ancient
lava-bcds, leaving It's serpentinc trail now on
tie river bottom, ana again hlgh on
the mountansidc, and travcrsing precipiccs 50 pre-
cipitous that the traveller hardly darcs - bend
over in the saddle lest the mule may lose its foot
ING i'm the slippery laderaS. Water courses which
have been glIstcning as silvcry cascades IN noun
tain chasns forded as roaring torrents plnng-
ing 70 their death in the great gorge Oi the Men
doza. Two bridges passed. one an arch Of
nd m
the other more substantial but less picturesque
structure which was built by one of the Governors
of Mendoza. The valley is constantly changing
It's dilcctiOn since lis main lines have been caused
by erosion. All the processes Of recurring seasons
ard natural causes are revealed on mOuniaInsilc
| and i'm river bottom. One see, shat this remark
able valley is not "A structural formation produced
IN the original uphcaval of the mountain masses
IT. has been followed out by the alternate rush
! Of the spring torrents and the subsistence Of
swollen streams High up where these siupcndouS
| mountain crowns are lost among iicccv clouds ON"
can perceive where the snowdIiiis hrst bcgln 10
| tricklr where the cOnvcrging streams are formed
wear after year. and where the torrents cnpti"d
| nto the river The water IS now at IT'S lowest
| cbb but the medium and high levels are TO he
traced as distinctly mile after mile, as II they
| had been Scient lfcally surveyed ana marked ON
! inv a measuring line The river bed is almost
empty. but the lines of sudden expansion and
gradual shrinh &c are uncTrngly r"Nchhd HE
floods have clappcd their hands season alter sea
son. and the chasIn between the mountain slopes
has been worn away IN sinuous course ana
gradually dccpcned. The lspallaia has IFS taL Of
fire as well as Of water craven on l'S bottom lands
and towering cls. Side by side with these
shattered larlis of lnrassic and aqueous rvc<s
are crystalline and volcanic masses which belong
to creative period prior 10 ages OF erosion fHr
every glacial morainc of field and stranded boul-
dcIs there are ancient lava-bcds and scenes Of
| volcanic disturbance
| The Tspallata is a valley of enchanting sur
prscs and sublime spectacles. but after ten hours
| in the saddle the most wonderful scenic panorama
weares the eyes and ceases to possess human in
| tcrcst The wind increasing to gale in the de
| files convcrging at Punta Las Nacas, chills and
| bcnumbs the exhausted traveller, who from sheer
| wcarncss would be wcl-nlgh willing 20 exchange
| all his earthly possessions for cOmcda y CANA -
dinner and bed. The attitude OF suspicion with
which at the outset had regarded the mcndacioms
guide had been modified by three days of good
| behavior on his part and security on my own but
the grim thought occurred TO me during ti'
last hours of this fatigulng days rlde 'hat II hc
| still entertained the ma lc voent design of muir
derlng and plundering me III the mountains IL
| would he pleasant 10 be dispatched n; once and