Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-10-11
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
What Women Should Wear and How
They Should Wear It
DRESSES FOR MANY USE S.
Tho Pretty Capofes and Who should
Wear Them-Fificensh Century Re.
vtvals-ColOrs 10 GBe Worn-COstliness
Of Trying 10 buy Elegance Cheaply.
Written for TIE FyKNINo SrAn.

u Bshnpely features which wear it. Let the
He3D aquiline woman beware Of essaying it.
however, unless she is willing that her most
prominent features should soar in par
rot-like relief. The bonnet is better for her,
| as the trimming is massed outside the line Of
the crown and projects almost as much a. the
tip Of the nose ITSELF
In choosing hat or bonnet for a woman with
prominent features hold ruler straight against
the tip of the nose and have the brim trim
ming como Mt least far forward. This trim
ming should be lght-feathers. gauze or lace
| with simple, effective knot OF velvet loops with
ploatings OF muslin de sole or thin crepe each
side. The feather border laid in tufts also sets
out from the head and makes it look smaller
For theater charming piece has Greek pat
tern border of velvet, shaped by wire and buck
ram, laid over crepe lisse futing, the bow Of
feather tufted SNOW" gauze and black velvet
ribbon with SNOW" aisrette being of that SIM
pie, inimltable elegance which enchants the
masculine mind and distracts the feminine
The set OF shoulders required in the velvet
ribbed, light gray walking Dress is unapproach-
! able except by first-rate artist
! The pelerine is designed to bring out the
"chnnkiness" of figure. being short wasted
| with tabs short aud rounded. the shoulder
pieces also giving breadth by their stinginess
| To be graceful, aud satisfy the eye, such gar
| uicut suOulu give inc 1ull length OF the waist
| and fall like u stole below, with rather broad
square ends. and the shoulder or arm pieces
| should come quite to the inner angle of the
elbow before the trimming is added or else be
q mere cap to the arm.
| HOUSE AND WALKING DRESSES.
| One OF the best models for house dress is the
glossy black silk now worn, with front of vel
vet striped and figured damask net The shap-
ing OF the corsage gives charming slender
Ity OF the spanish jacket, which widened the
waist. The sleeve will be better without the
bell cuff, which is really the only point to
critlcise about this interesting toilet, admirable
for an amateur concert dress. A caprice of the
| mode is q walking dress. half cloth, half vel
vet, which, II the materials are both IN the
same shade, or in rare harmony. may pass with
| TASTE The trimming with Angora fringe is one
OF the newest ideas, and the drift of it across
the breast Is warm and protecting to the sensi-
| tive line OF the chest. The little embroidered
| jacket without sleeves is carried for possible
| change in the air OF these capricious autumn
days. But the veil, with the PREDETERMINED
hat, though fashion Of the hour, is anything
| but becoming or advisable. 1t looks bungling
and i'll the largo lozenges of russian net is
coarse, bedizened Only small hat or toque
| should ever be worn with q veil, and it should
be wrapped in eastern fashion twice across the
! face over brow and again over the cheeks
| leaving the eyes uncovered, for wearing a veil
dulls and weakens them, not only by obscurnc
| vision and straning the optic nerve slightly
| but surely but by the vapor of the breath in
hailed over and over, which is bad for the wearer
| and her eyes.
A long elegant garment serves as dress and
| wrap in one for the street. to be worn over
plain gown. In silk ribbed with velvet or in
cloth with plush or astrakhan it is q delightful
thing, with or without the huge wings or cord
net or chenille net, which are supposed to add
style to the pelisse.
| Furs and fans are carried together in luxu-
rious readiness for extremes in a heated GAL
lery or chilly street. And mark the coquet-
fish fastening Of the collar Of tho cloak by q
strap at the back of the neck.
FIFTEENTH CENTURY REVEALS.
Many Of the winter styles are suggestions
from the fifteenth century dress, revived by
the Tudor exhibition, which was the delight Of
the London world last season. Veritable state
dresses were unearthed from wardrobe rooms
| end Golfers; gloves furnished and sewn with
pearls; corselets OF woven metal. studded with
| carbuncle turquoise, garnet and seed pearls;
bodices stiff with embroidery in gold thread
| and furred; mOth-eaten mantles which had
stirred with the unrest of the proudest, un-
| easiest hearts in the world.
Not only the Marcs and Elizabeths. OF whom
history is full, sent their last tnery to the ex-
| hibitIon. but those forgotten Maries Annes
and Isabellas whose destiny was so high and SO
unhappy in that they were hardly less account
living than they seem to be dead-women with
| out force, daring or worth enough to win what
was theirs by desire and right who coveted,
envied, moped and left OF themselves nothing
but their pedigree and their pctticoats Well,
these last were often graceful enough to be
remembered and admired. But copied-the
| royal vino sack III rabbits fur and the gold
thread which has kept ITS CLEAN for centuries
| In the Dutch metal which will tarnsh in six
weeks wear, and the turquoses in blue cellu-
loid-defend us from such affrouts to taste.
| Low-PRIcED ELEGANCE.
They flourish at the merchants openings.
where one may buy corselet embroidered by
machinery in ''purples" and 1ourishes of green
gold, red, gold and yellow to delight the dressy
heart OF Aune of Cloves, and very much in the
fashion of her day, for price not beyond the
wages Of q good school teacher.
The cheap velvet sleeves, wrought in at
tempt to mimic Venetian richness from shoul-
der TO waist, hang on the show line above the
counters marked only $3.50 the pair. Oh, that
women would be laws unto themselves, for
then, and then only, should We SEQ noble and
enduring fashions. the sumptuous demanding
tho finest richest produc tons of the loom to
carry out its royal ideas; the middle class, in
the sweet gravity of stuffs woven to last. en-
| HANGED by the handiwork of the weayers of a
design worthy to last, and common folk in
clean, bright checry stuffs that would cleanse
year after year like new and be worth the dol
lars put into them.
As it is, you may go from counter to counter
and find little worth the trouble OF making up.
Certainly it does not pay to give month 8
salary OF an ordinary professional woman for
n simple dress, to wait the pleasure of Dress
maker for days and hours to have it refitted,
get it after two weeks waiting to have the bind
ing altered and the seams taken in under the
arms, and then in six weeks wear have it turn
rusty, with tho verdict from those who should
know that "it won't pay to dye it, for the
threads are giving way already"
That is q specimen Of what women buy for
stylish dresses. They pay for style, and moth
ing else, and style won't wear or keep its gloss.
Women begin the matter Of dress reform at the
wrong end. II they were to demand better
fabrics, and model them in certain compro-
mise of good taste, they would be gainers,
rather than to pay three prices for reform gar
ments when common ones are already dear
Let US look at the Venetian bodice and the
"hygienic" extravaganccs and beware Of either.
THIS AUTUMN's coLoRs
The colors for the autumn include number
Of shadowy browns, which will be useful,
notably the richly soft tan shade called Hindoo,
after the hue Of native bodies. This is com.
bined with pale Egyptian greens, like verdi
girls; cocoa, walnut, camel and lumber shades
describe themselves. The reds are delightful,
Moorish red, Indian red, Boulanger, the clear,
carnation scarlet and o rich cherry red, long in
disuse. Turquoise blue 10 the trimming color
for bows and offsets to Dress much seen with
black, especially in made trimmings. The old
passementerie and gimp bands have their pat
terms picked out in the bosses Of imitation tur-
quoise, and the effect of color is pretty, though
IL revolts the taste in material. Other trim
L NH rs4A l. !