The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1890-05-11

's' tthG \ y sNoHs
somehow we had got il into our heads
that we did not want n Pantheon Ia
ours, SO we shook our heads and insisted
on something else. Luis humbly pro-
nounced, botanical Gardens" We
drove through narrow streets with high
walls on either side. enclosing gardens.
in which were set the queer, tiled houses
OF the inhabitants. These walls seem 30
frightfully selfish, IL Is utterly impossible
TO see any OF the grounds around the
houses, and only the upper stsries Of the
houses themselves are visible. We drove
on and on, the distance seeming inter-
minahle, owing to the narrow, tunnel
like aspect OF the streets. Finally we
came TO- street running along the ridge
the Botanical Gardens. Unfortunately
the gates were locked, and We could not
&c, in. BY driving n little further up the
ridge, however, we had a beautiful view
OF the city and liver. Seen from above,
Lisbon presents u very pretty aspect. The
be appreciated, and the dreary sameness
OF the high walls is lost. Luis could sug-
gest nothing else to be seen in our linn
tied time, 80 we told him to take us back
by another road. Our horses seemed
to slide over the slippery. stones
naa DUR os descent I;,,I was sh by jerks. We
the walls kept by old crones with the
most wizened faces imaginable; suddenly
the coachman pulled up and exclaimed
Gentlemen, h Pantheon" We We're
caught. We had to see Il now. The out.
assembled the long, deep steps and en-.
tered the church consecrated as the tomb
OF the kings OF Portugal. The building
forms q hollow square,, one side is the
church, the back is the tomb and the
other side is the mortuary chapels.
T'hn mn all, - al~
cred with blue and white tiles depicting
scenes in the history Of Portugal. The
effect is most abominable. We passed
through the court of the tomb, the door
was opened by a silent, limping function
airy and we entered the presence chamber
OF death. Down each wall and along a
raised platform in the middle collin sue
ceeded collin. most of them draped in
violet and black. Silently placing a pair
of steps against q coffin the functionary
motioned us to mount and gaze on the
mortal remains Of the late king of Portu-
gal. dead three TOUR months," accord
ing to Luis. All hat could be seen was
a face covered by a skin not yet like
parchment but gradually becoming so; a
face without any expression; The mouth
tight closed and the temples sunk; dust
that was once possessed by an immortal
splrit, = o had no owner but the
earth, whose rights were disputed through
the pitiable expediency Of embalminv.
But old mother earth knows how to wait
n her own will surely be returned to
her. Our slightly lugubrious thoughts
were turned into mother channel by one
OF the party suggesting lunch. Back to
the carriage and recommending our slip
ping sliding performance, we finally
eached our destination-the Hotel Bra
ganza. We enjoyed "a lunch, which,after
our steamer fare, tasted like the nectar of
the gods. Leisurely retracing our steps
we once more found ourselves at the
custom house stairs, found our
little boat and were rowed out to the big
ship which soon steamed out of the river,
n turned her head towards Madeira,
When we arose in the morning and looked
out of the port hole the sea looked like
liquid silver, the sun shone so brightly,
the vino blew so softly and the waters
seemed to meet the bow Of the ship with
such n caressing movement that life itself
gained in value, and the world seemed
good to live in. Two days after our de-
darture,from Lisbon, we were Awakened by
the stewart poking his head through the
curtain that alone separated our cabin
from the p~assageway n p~ronouncing
the mysterious word Punchal. After get
ting ON deck i found out thai Punchal was
the name of the principal town of Ma
deira, in whose bay we were shortly TO
east anchor.
Slowly rounding a rocky point we came
'lF's c'sN W 80 W. u tAAAb sSNtt
in many years. A crescent shaped nay,
whose waters were as still and placid as
those of a lake, rejecting the brilliant
blue Of the sky above II, spread itself out
before us. The western horn of the cres-
cent was formed by IA rock separated from
the island and rising abruptly out of the
sea, its summit crowned with a most pic
turcsquc fort. The island rose from the
sea terrace-shaped, the houses of the
town almost covered with the shadow of
the trees, and Towering shrubs whose
odors the land breeze waited to us. APP
pearcd but as white patches in a field Of
green. light in the midst of the town
rose the BIZ bell tower, almost covered
with ivy. Before we had even cast anchor
our vessel was surrounded by little boats,
each occupied by two boys whose costume
consisted Of a pair of white cotton
hair glistened whenever the sun shone on
II and their shrill cry would have awak-
encd the even slecpers. THROW n shill-
ing, master, far out; | dive and catch
him with my big toe" For two
shillings l dive under the ship"
one very small boy who is derided by his
more grasping companions. A shilling Is
thrown overheard and the whole band
dive after II. You al see their motions
70 feet down in the wonderfully clear
water. One little fellow gets the money,
and comes up to the surface with the coin
tightly squeezed by his big toe. Then the
shouting r-ecommences; II is lots of sport
watching them, they are so 1.-the and seem
TO have such perfect control OF tneir bod
les while In the water. The same party
that went ashore at Lisbon get into a lit
tie boat and row towards the beach.
There are no landing stairs here and
the boatmen turn the little boat stern
foremost and wait for n swell to carry il
up on the gravel, where the men ashore
grab II, and you have TO get out before the
next wave comes in. A certain amoun
OF rush at the right time Is requisite In
| order TO avoid wet feet. We managed
! very well, indeed. No SOONER landed than
we are besieged by drivers OF the OK sleds