The Portland daily press., 1890-09-11

which the old Dukes of Savoy may have en-
parked when they wished to survey their
| fortress from the lake, or in which prisoners
may have been brought to their fate. Gay
Win scarlet cushions was ours, ~ Ameri-
cain" was painted on its side, and the stars
and stripes fioated over it, suppose this is
delicate device of the boatmen to attract
VISITORS, ior another displayed the English
| nag, Wnlle third was adorned more patriot
ically with the white cross of Switzerland on
its red ground. OF course we chose "L'Amer-
| lcaln, and / am glad to say That 1t was the
prettiest boat, and that we had the hand
soonest boatman.
| Through the prison a crowd of tourists
| were hurrylDg,. casting careless glances
around them and chattering thoughtlessly of
| this, that or the other thing. / am afraid
that some of the loudest and most needless
| were my eountrymen and women. / wished
they could have been stiller, it was so solemn
| place. Into BOnniyard's dungeon a single
ray OF sunlight was falling, as be may have
| seen IL. rousing for a moment from his leth-
| argy. Six years, in this darkness, in the
4 chill of these walls of stone! What wonder
that the light and air should have become
such strangers to the senses that the priso-
ner shrank appalled, from their presence,
anu IN the hrst moments would have chosen
again his old despair!
we were rowed back over the glittering
lake to Montreux.. Big hotels and little
villas, glowing gardens and vine-wreathed
terraces, gay shop windows, futtering flags
this is Montreux, or Vevey If you will, or
any other of these villages, with the blue
lake ripping at their feet, and the mountains
keeping guard.
Back to Lausanne. through the glory of
me sunset on the water, and the outline of
M me savoy Alps growing clear and dark.
me next night we stood again on the fhore,
tnis time In the moonlight 1t was the I've
netian night" of the regatta festival. The
garden of the Hotel Beau Rivarge, on the
axe shore at Auchy, were lighted with hun
fan fnl
Ing among the dark trees; and the boats
darting here and there were festooned with
the same light, dancing things, red, green,
gold. Out on the pier was a band of music,
inseparable accompaniment of every fes-
tivitv. Over the hills opposite rose the full
moon, throwing broad band of light over
the lake; and presently the fireworks began.
When the last big Roman candle had sput-
tered itself away, the Beau Rivage was illu-
minated with Bengal lights, red aud green.
This was supposed to be the climax, and the
spectators began to wander away. An illu-
mination Is the delight Of the Continental
heart waterfall, a castle-illuminate it!
Is the cry.
A rival attraction to the fireworks and illu-
limitations was going on outside in the form
Of the "carrossel." This was familiar TO me.
had made its acquaintance long since in
Germany, but gaze with ever new wonder
at the spectacle OF grown people, men and
women, sitting on wooden horses and ele-
plants, and giving themselves up to the de-
light OF being whirled dizzily round and
| round to the sound of humping music A
l pleasant variety from the elephants back is
| to climb into one of the boats suspended
| above, marked Hamburg. America" These
are arranged to rise and fall as If upon the
bosom of the Atlantic at the same time that
the whole thing goes round The sensation
may be imagined, but the 'carrossel" never
lacks rapturous occupants. Around the
l shooting booths, too, was a crowd of men
and boys, eagerly waiting their turn to aim
| at paper soldiers. Truly these people know
| how to amuse themselves.
| On the first green point which stretches
| out into the lake west from Lausanne is the
| tiny village of Saint Sulpice. The larger
| steamers do not stop at its pier, and it seems
| to have been little invaded ty strangers.
There Is not even hotel, only little inn
| with gaily dressed hunter on its sign Eau
Chasseur." 1t was clear hot afternoon
when we walked TO Saint Sulpice, an hour
and half along the lake shore. All the
people were at work in the fields, and the
| village seemed almost deserted. At TIE end
| OF the narrow pier man was fishing, and
one other was in sight mending beat on the
beach. How still 1t was! just the ripple of
water and the notes of birds in the trees
around the quaint old Roman church.
These rough gray walls were standing
| when Charlemagne was the great name in
the world. We tried to find some one to
| row us back over the lake to Auchy, but the
fisherman on the pier could not leave his
fish, and the man mending his boat could
not leave his work, so we sat on the rocks
| and dreamed ourselves back into past centu-
| ries till 1t was quite too late, and our walk
home was enlivened by one of the thunder
storms which are such frequent evening
| visitors. Tomorrow. alas! we leave La
Chabiere. Interlaken, Grindolwad, Luz
cerne are before us, the German side of Swiss
life. Shall we find 1t more fascinating than
this? A. S. M