Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-11-02
LOW-PRICED LU
Delicate Dishes That Cal
From the Head of a
A DAINTY THAT GOES Al
Ellice Serena Gives Some Directit
Preparation.
A RECIPE FOB MOCK TUk-
A DAINTY THAT GOES Al
A RECIPE FOB MOCK TUk-
WRITTEN FOR THE D1sPArcH.l

cook book, which bears upon its title
the printers date, 1892, L learn thu
"well regulated" families at that IT,
calfs head was regarded as a most de- che,
dish; and one, too, which was evide, G;tt1
demand on festal or extraordinary occa ,ro
In its elaborate makeup quite a numb,
rich and rare ingredients entered, ar II
was placed before the guests with varI :. Q
attractive garnlshments.
At the present time, however, it may De
admitted that calf's head is not held in such
high esteem-but this assuredlY is not be-
cause it is undeserved. The truth is. that
in this case, as in many others, its lack Of
appreciation is no evidence against its
worth as an article of food. As such it is
rich in gelatiDe, is very nutritious, and is
inexpensive. From it may be made many
dishes which are delicate, palatable and at
tractive.
NO DEMAND FOR THEM.
Speaking of this subject lately, butcher
said there was such little demand for calves
heads that he frequently threw them into
the refuse heap, unless he found customer
willing to carry them away as a gift. Many
families whose means are necessarily linn
tied pay out from 25 to 75 cents daily for
steak which frequently is tough and far
from choice, when for the smaller of these
sums one of the finest cali's heads can be
bought, and from it may be made a splendid
soup and several excellent dishes.
Tine edible parts of the Calls head are
various, both in quality and kind. The
part regarded with special favor is the
throat sweetbread. Some good meat of
more substantial kind is found on the under
part of the lower jaw; the fat about the ear
is called dainty bite, while the palate and
the eye part are considered delicious. The
tongue is the epicure's choice of all tongues.
From the calfs head is made mock turtle
soup, which many maintain to be the finest
soup made. 1t is distinctively an English
soup; and as it is made in England, by
their best cooks, only the skin of the head,
with the fat adhering to it, is used. From
it we also have mock terrapin stew, an ex-
cellent dish.
SELECTING THE HEAD.
In selecting a calfs head examine it
closely for the signs which indicate fresh
ness and maturity. The eyes should be full
and bright, the skin white and firmly at
tached to the head. The bumps or SEM
blaDce of horns should be prominent. Re-
ject the head that is yellowish in appear
ance or Shiny to the touch, conditions
which plainly tell US that the animal was
killed too soon, and that it is therefore un-
wholesome food.
In ordering a calfs head, direct the
butcher to clean it with the skin left on, and
the teeth left out. 1t should be sawed or
split IN two pieces, or hole should be cut
in the top of the head so that the brains may be
removed. If the head is cleaned at home
sprinkle it with powdered rosin and immerse
words of the old cook book. the hair will Flip
off," Scrape it well and cover with plenty of
cold salted water and soak from two to eight
hours if the weather is warm. If the weather
is cold "a hours are required. During the soak
ing process change the water frequently to draw
out the blood and to whiten the meat In what
ever way calfs head is to be served it must first
be thoroughly cleaned, well soaked, and unless
baked, boiled until tender. 1t is sometimes
parboilod before baking but this is not neces-
sary.
BOILED CALF'S HEAD.
If the calfs head is to be boiled whole re-
move the brain by carefully cutting hole in
the TOP of the head
Lay 1t aside to soak in cold water, with a
little vinegar, until ready to use.
Put the head to boil entirely covered with
cold water adding salt when it is almost done.
To give flavor to the meat bunch of sweet
lemon, a Glove or Two, few peppercorns, a
small minced onion, and gill of vinegar.
The tongue should be cut out when the head
is put to boil and cooked with it and the season.
ings until tender.
Remove the skin, slice when cold, or serve
warm with sauce.
A calf's head is usually boiled about two
hours, and the bones should be removed before
serving.
If not served warm let stand in the broth
until ready to use.
An excellent souD is made from this broth
which should always be strained.
Boiled calfs head is usually served with brain
sauce.
BRAIN SAUCE.
Mash the brains. add half pint of drawn
butter, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, a
spoonful of bread crumbs, a gill of cream. salt
and pepper and such herbs as may be desired
FRIED oALF's HEAD.
Cut cold boiled calfs head In pieces about
two inches square, dip in beaten egg, roll in
bread crumbs and fry brown.
Put on warm platter and add lemon juice.
BRonED Gales HEAD.
Cut the meat from the head in half dozen
good-sized pieces, glaze with beaten egg, roll In
bread crumbs, broil to a rich brown.
Serve with butter sauce.
CALLS HEAD SALADS.
Cut the best and leanest of the meat from
the head. when cold; place on meat board and
with a sharp knife cut IN pieces ABOUT nan an
Add the tongue chopped, in pieces of the
same size, and serve with salad dressing 2.
Meats for salads shonld never be minced, or
cut too fine.
Pour on the dressing, quite cold, Just befors
serving, and mix or toss, with fork. lightly as
possible. The daintiest way to serve salad is
merely to pour little dressing on each dish
as it is served, and TO allow the guest to do the
mixing.
EscALoPED Gales HEAD.
Cut the meat In small pieces, place in a bak.
ing dish in layers, with bread crumbs and a
thinly sliced onion between.
Add seasoning and pour in cupful Of stock.
Mash the brains, spread on top and cover
with bread crumbs, dotted with butter.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Take from the oven when brown
MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
Take a head with the skin on, soak it well ir
salt and water. Put to boil in fresh cold water
and cook uutil quite tender; take it out striI
OF the meat, cut in small pieces, return to the
soup-por with some rich veal stock, minced
onion a bunch of sweet herbs. two cloves,
Iaysi Irs ~ tabiesnoonfui Of browned flour and
teaspoonful of butter creamed together.
Boil for ten minutes three or four eggs
throw into cold water, and when cool crumble
the yelks into the soup tureen. cut in few
thin slices of lemon and pour in the soup.
A good substitute for turtle fat Is fresh fa
pork cooked with ga calfs headEabout two
essary when the pork is used.
SCRAMBLED BRAINS.
Soak the brains of two calves heads for ono
hour In cold salted water; remove the skin anC
bloody hbers; divide the brains in four pieces
and tie each piece loosely in coarse muslin
plunge into boiling water and cook for 20 min
utes; cut them in small pieces and beat in foul
eggs, tine yelks and whites beaten separately.
Put a lump of butter in the frying pan with |
little minced parsley or powdered sage.
Turn in the mixture and toss about unit
quite hot.
BAKED CALF's HEAD.
Carefully remove the brains from the head
and put them, with the head, to soak in cold