The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1890-12-14
THE WOMAN'S COLUMN.
A FEW TIMELY HINTS ON DRESS AND
DECORATION.
New Ideas in Hair Dressing-The Question
of Shoes-The Costume MufT and other
Recent Feminine Fads.

If girls and women were properly shod more
than half their ll-heath would disappear. Rub
bers are not expensive, and no woman who is
employed away from home can afford to have
less than two pair one at each end of the line.
Those who object TO the overshoe or sandal can
wear the foothods, which will protect the soes
from wet and often from exposure to colds
There are in New York women who are wise
enough to carry the footholds wherever they go,
in winter and spring preferring bulgiug pocket
or handbag to sore throat or bad cold. Those
who dislike to walk in rubber of any sort are ad-
vised to wear cork-soled shoes, which may be
bought anywhere for S5. Only n foolish, poor,
ignorant woman will take the risk of wet feet.
In case of poverty the spectacle of a woman
going through storm in thin shoes is pitiable,
while the ignorance or vanity that prompts such
an exhibition is pitiful.
In hairdressing there are various new styles,
but the one rule, without exception, is that
smooth hair is entirely out of fashion. Be it fair
or dark and whether stiff or soft by nature, all
ladies' hair is now required to be onduler that is,
to fall and ripple in large waves, catching the
varying lights and shades, which give it life and
beauty. The fashionable style, therefore, is to
have the hair waved all over the head all light
and fluffy, and small chignon in the neck, just
under the edge of the bonnet, fastened with a
large diamond pin or a Theodore brooch. For
the evening the hair is waved in the same way,
but few curls are suffered to escape from the
jeweled cache-peigne at the back; or if the hair
is very long and thick, it is loopeI very low in
the neck and fastened up with ribbons or
jewels.
Braided sleeves are feature of cashmere
dresses, and with a collar and girde similarly
braided the only trimmings. Velvet and
silk sleeves, so closely braided that the material
almost concealed nrOVidpd
cames hair, and cloth dresses. Braided silk
sleeves are also prepared for those who prefer
lighter fabrics. Marabout feather bands in the
middle OF embroideries and applique designs
trim the foot of camel's hair and cashmere
gowns, and ostrich feather bands and loops are
trimmings for farng collars and the foot of
skirts. The old-blue shades, dahlia colors dark
green, and several brown tints are the colors for
cashmere gowns.
Old lace is rarely seen to advantage on modern
materials. A dress must be specially built for
this form of decoration, and any amount of
trouble ought to be taken in the selection of the
| materials Above all, picturesque bodice is a
necessity. The high bodice with ruffies, fichu,
| and Medci collar, which some ladies are privi-
legged to wear at court, would seem to be just the
| thing. Some excellent limitations of old silks are
obtainable. They are dim and faded and softly
! howered. The faded yellowness of old lace has
little in common with the gayy-howered silks
and imposing designs now in vogue.
The costume muff to correspond with the hat,
bonnet, or toque is more popular than ever, and
the materials of which millinery is now made are
particularly suitable for them. They GER
| tanly and exceedingly pretty and artistic addi.
tion to a costume and are quite as useful as the
| ugly cylinders of fur which they to great ex.
| tent replace. Ornaments of all kinds are much the
vogue and appear sngly and in groups on al
fashionable millinery. With the coming in OF
| fur the butterfly, which has been the ornament
par excellence for several seasons, has been re-
tired.
Black ages woman, says an authority OF
dress, and it is true that few French women, un
| less they are in mourning, don black costume
unrelieved by color. A touch of saffr ron, poppy
red, or turquoise blue relieves the monotony o
an ll-black costume without detracting from its
| elegance.
The smart girl may be seen about town carry
ing cane alike umbrella in the handle of which
is whistle. By means of this windy silver
handle the masculine maid can bring men, chill
dren, and dogs to her feet, and now and then
frowning fellow in n blue-coat.
Next to breaking hearts there is nothing
a woman would rather do than spend money ,ant
so, if you are in doubt as to what your mother
sister, or wife would like for Christmas, pin
ffty-dollar bill to your card. put it in an envel
ope. and address it to the lady.
Key rings are among the latest bits of toile
jewery. Solid gold is used, and inside of TIN
narrow band either an address or name is gener
ally inscribed.