, 1890-09-18
WomdD ' \Ddt.
The Decree of Dame Fashion for the Early
Autumn Months.
LATEST PARTISAN AND AMERICAN STYLES
Dainty Jackets and GownsFlowers in Favor Once
More---General News of Interest
Women.

/ ters Of Huer de lis or royal tiger lilies,
rusting In silken splendor, but made
with classic simplicity of outline and
buttoned at the back.
Among the many unique dresses
displayed by Partisan designers In
one OF white serge bordered with
white Astrakan and claborately en-
broidered In white and silver braid;
and another, more surprising still, Is
Of bluish-gray material, displaying
the markings and general effect OF
crocodile leather. Both toilets were
accompanied by feather bows aud
soft, felt hats laden with heavy
plumes.
Flounces of lace and other matcri-
ais grow in favor, and most of the
later dresses have either ruching,
u frill, or succession of tlounces at
the foot. One Of the leaders of fash
ion appeared at an outdoor festival
recently i'm Princess robe of fine
yellow cloth, encircled about the
hem and neck as well with volumi-
nous ruchings of white Grape.
Foulard costumes have plated
tiounces of lace sewn OH in slightly
accumulated festoons, aud muslin
80" ho hoNO hOuhNSo Va
fulled on with bright ribbons in the
shirs. Valuable lace that must not
be cut Is fiounccd on to plain skirts
q little slantingly, and each founce
Is turned at the side In little
coquille, which makes the effect OF
a cascade Of lace rs they fall one
above the other. In all cases where
lace is used to ornament n skirt 1t
should appear also In the trimming
of the bodice, either In the
form of sleeves and chemisette. loose
jacket fronts, or frilling. Severity
seems to have reached Its limit and
the reaction to frills aud frou-frou
has already set In with cheerful en-
thusiasm. Few women are suffi-
ciently we'll nolded to wear advan.
tageously the modes of the present
season, while even n very ordinary
bit of femininity, so far as figure is
concerned, Is n delight to the eye In
fiutter of dainty lace and ribbons,
neatly draped aud fulled to conceal
her deficiencies and emphasize her
delicate womnnly charm.
A curiously pretty and novel ma
terial has Just been introduced for
evening shoes, and IL is delicately
binted that Mrs. Dorothy Tennant-
Stanley has set the seal of approval
upon 1t by employing 1t in her we'd
ding chaussure. 1t Is u kind Of sill
yer kid, very fine and beautiful,
and seems to merit success and
popularity.
Quite the newest thing in neck
laces was displayed Mt n recent mar
riage in Paris, and consisted of n
riviere of diamonds which crossed
over at the pack and had the ends
capped with two magnificent stones
Ten other equally large and re-
splendent stones were suspended
from the necklace by flexible invlsi-
BILE wires and swayed and flashed
against the wearer's neck with no
visible means of support.
The chronological craze in bonnet
decoration increases as the season
advances, and butterflies and dragon
flies continue to be fAvorites.
A large gold butterfly with wings as
fine as filigree, supported by a still
larger black lace butterfly behind 1t,
forms the entire substance of dress
hat. A dragon fly, tail upward,
against knot of pale gray chiffon,
ornaments one bonnet; natural bees
on a grny-green crepe ground deco
rate another, and wasps 80 realisti c
as to make one apprehensive, quiv.
ering on u rosette of brown crepe,
are on third.
Fantastic clace-trimmed hats laden
with orchids have whole flocks of
these butterflies quivering OH the
Hover sprays. and for fair hair have
l fnlha nj do. 4, A.,
Bridemaids' hats are made of fine.
white horse hair, which looks like
silver braid, and have crumple d
brims and crowns covered with
flowers or feathers, from which fall
long, floating ends of tulle. Bunches
of lilies of the valley blend with
green velvet on the cleaning white
horse-hair bonnets, while larger and
becoming shapes In black horse-hair +
are trimmed with poppies.
The most distinguished style in
bonnets is suggestive of Grecian
headdresses, and is extremely be-
coming as well as far removed from
the ordinary conception of the usual
bonnet. A bonnet formed on a
Greek model has n wreath of p,lr-
plish roses resting on piece Of en-
broidered lace, softly plcated, and,
forming point over the forehead,
the whole tied with loosely knotted
velvet strings.
The Veuve bonnet Is q Parislan
novelty, so called from its long
streamers of tule floating out like a
widows veil. The bonnet itself Ia
black lace anu wells, with pink roses
In front.