davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
womsNs WORLD IN PARAGRAPHS.
Work, VIII and Vait-The Changed Ideal
OF Feminine Beauty.
TCoDy-ight $780,


The change in the ideal Of feminine
beauty in the last generation is striking.
The present generation viii remember
the pictures hanging in their mother S
parlors of ideally beautiful women. These
pictures represented a female with a
large, bullying forehead, hollow chest,
sloping shoulders and a thin neck,
curved something like crooked necked
squash. A general consumptive express
sion pervaded the females face, the
more consumptive the more lovely.
Long curls dropped about her cheeks,
and generally full blown red rose was
perched in her hair above the left ear.
The picture usually bore the name Elsa
BELLA F'Rosabella" or angelina" But
AL this, which may be called the crooked
necked squash style of feminine beauty,
has vanished from the earth. The
tailor made girl is now the beauty.
She has square shoulders, a full neck,
a fiat back, and carries her head
ese9ct, The ancient sloping shoulder line,
which artists of that day considered the
curve of ideal beauty, in our time would
stamp girl as round shouldered to a de-
formity, and send her in haste to the
gymnasium to practice exercises that
would send her out again fiat of back,
square of shoulder and full and deep of
chest. The ideal feminine beauty has
now a suggestion of strength that it has
not had in modern times and which
brings it nearer TO the ancient Greek
model than it has ever been before. We
begin to understand that strength COM
bined with ha1uonious development con-
stitutes perfect beauty.
The women artists of New York have
set good example to their sex else
where. A number of the strongest of
them have formed a club Of their own,
called the Woman's Art club. They have
grown in influence and numbers till they
are now able to give art receptions of
their own, and very creditable ones, too.
The newspapers announced that Bishop
Hurst's wife "died at the residence of
her husband" Cannot woman have,a
home of her own even to die in?
a minister writes asA. The Chicago Ad-
vance that he had lately attended ban
quet at which $50 women were present,
and many Of them made dinner speeches.
They had t0asts and a toast master and
a rule forbidding any woman to speak
more than two minutes. The speeches
were not only able and witty, but they
were audible. Il shall now" said the
feel more at liberty to urge
the women TO take part in prayer meet
ings."
Mrs. N. o. ". Qiphant is one of the
most versatile of writer's Once she pro-
posed to the editor of Blackwoods Mag
azine to write all of one number, the
serial story on which she was then en-
gagged, and five other articles on differ
ent topics and in different styles.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

it is like any other piece of feminine ap-'
parel, barbarous or civilized. But even
here the resemblance is very remote.
Celestial trousers ara long and Tapping
and ugly, and take the place of the civil
lied wonan's dress. The divided skirt
is shorter, makes no display Of itself,
confines itself to its original purpose of
supplanting the underskirt, and makes
no overt attacks upon the outside dress.
Therein lies the difference between the
American divided skirt and the feminine
trousers of the Chinese or any other ma
ton. 1t is simply a shy little underskirt
that wouldn't attempt to be anything
else for the world, and which wishes TO
be kept well covered by gown Of or
thodox length.
The truth is, the divided skirt is like
no other article Of raiment known to the
feminine half Of the world. 1t is a pro-
duct of the bifurcating tendency Of evo-
lution-that tendency which split chop
sticks into two tined forks, divided single
pronged hair skewers into two pronged
hairpins, changed the toga of the Ro-
mans into the modern trousers, and, per-
haps-who can say?-gave mankind two
legs instead of one.
That same birfurcating tendency has
been at work upon woman's apparel this
many day. Time was, and not so very
long ago, when each article of her raj
ment would have answered fairly well
TO the Turkish woman's description Of
Lady Monatgue's dress-troUsers with
one leg. And now there is lest. at least
among that large section Of womankind
that has adopted the divided skirt and
its concomitants, but one single article,
the outside gown, that is safe from the |
Of division and still keeps its
circling, enveloping form and purpose.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Particular About the Air.

A lady was out house hunting with
her husband. Every place they went to
she was particular to ask if the air was
good. Finally her husband said:
"Why are you so Internally particular
to ask about the air? You ought to know
that the air is good in all these places"
Il want to be sure of it," replied the
woman, ''for air is about all your family
gets to live on."-NeW York World.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Expecting Too Much from 1t.

"Grindstone, don't take much stock
in the idea that fish diet builds up the
brain I've lived on fish, fish, fish for
three straight weeks and feel less like
doing mental labor than l did before I
began. Fish phosphorus is a humbug."
'Kiljordan, you have been expecting
too much from it. Phosphorus only
stimulates the brains. 1t won't create
them. Chicago Tribune.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Sure Is likes.

Jonesswas congratulating Mrs. Simp-
kns on iler luxurious home and the many
comforts of life that she enjoyed, as
Simpkins was in receipt of a large sal
airy.
Eyes, Mr.. Jones: it's all very well as
long as it lasts, BIZ: what would happen
if Simpkins should take it into his head
to die?''
"Mydear madam exclaimed Jones in
one Of those prophetic outbursts for
which he is no-ed, lin that case you
would certainly become a widow
Judge.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
THE DIVIDED SKIRT.

For, undoubtedly, the divided skirt is
gaining ground and has won already a
large army to its wearing and defense.
1t has been only three years since it
sprang, full gathered, trimmed and
divided. from the brain of the lady for
whom it has achieved distinction, into
the talk of women and the news columns,
headlines and paragraphs of the news
papers.
Three years ago nobody had even
thought of divided skirt. One woman,
more inventive than practical, had sewed
her petticoat together, back and front, and
had tried to wear it in that shape. But
the attempt to make Siamese twins out
Of her propelling members had not
proved entirely successful and comforta-
bile, and she had gone back to the ortho-
dox form in petticoats gladly and CRATE
fully.
Now patterns by the hundred are sent
out by the firm of the lady to whom all
The talk about it is due, and the same
firm carries a large stock of the made
goods in all materials from red flannel
TO soft, lace trimmed silk. Several dry
goods houses keep it always on hand.
One of them spends a good deal of
money advertising that they keep it. 1t
no longer attracts curious crowds when
it is displayed in the store windows.
The fact that several actresses, among
them Ro5ina Vokes, wear the article,
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

And there is a rumor that even this,
in the specific form of riding habit, is
about to be attacked by the bifurcating
impulse.
DO tell me" said to woman who
sings the praises OF her divided skirt at
every opportunity, ''what there is about
that garment which makes every woman
who wears one SO anxious to convert
every other woman to the faith?''
"Oh, it is such a dainty. pretty gar
ment and fits around the waist and over
the hips SO neatly and brings out so
beautifully every pretty curve and falls
in such soft, graceful lines, and is alto
gether so fetching, that 1 stand before
my glass and admire it every time 1
reach that stage of dressing or undress-
ing.
Besides, it never gets wet, or soiled,
or bedraggled from the street, no matter
how hard it rains or how long you are
out. 1t is SO light that you hardly know
you have anything of the kind on, and
so lessons the necessary weight Of the
clothing and makes backacheS less fire.
quent. You can have better command
Of all your muscles and handle yourself
better and be more graceful. You can
walk more easily and dance more grace
fully, and do everything that you want
to do with more ease and pleasure-ex-
cept cross your knees, and if you attempt
to do that with u divided skirt on you'll
wish you hadn't And nobody who
wasn't initiated would ever guess that
you weren't dressed underneath your
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

and long fiots of velvet ribbon The hat
was of Tuscan. in tan color. faced with
brown velvet, and with Old rose coiored
plumes. Just the last touch was added
in the IAN Colored gloves, and the pretty
wearer caught the grace and chic Of
Paris, and displayed it, TOO.
AAEaITsE D'A.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
M14lMcA4nAG27 mum
Paris Fashions.

PARIS, March 28.-The other night 1
was at dinner at the Russian embassy
and 1 could not help falling in love with
the toilet worn by the young Duchess
de Bligny. Her robe was cut high in
the neck and with long sleeves, because
her shoulders and arms are so plump
that it would not be keeping Lent strict
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Settling Scores.

Burly Countryman (squaring off before
dentist who has just extracted a tooth
after breaking it three times)-Well, mis-
ter, you've made a mighty bungling job
O that, and I'm going to say to you what
you just said to me.
Dentist (alarmed) What's that?
Burly Countryman-Let's have it out.
Burlington Free Press.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
They We're CONTAGIOUS.

"'Is that your dog?' asked one leisurely
looking man of another on Pennsylvania
avenue.
Yes
Good dog?"
Eyes; expect to make a ratter of
him"
Ever catch anything?"
eyes"
"What did he catch?"
"Fleas. Washington Post.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
TCopyright 1880. !

Slowly but surely the divided skirt
question is setting womankind against
notwithstanding feminine opinion as
distinctly as the skirt itself is divided.
The views pro, and con are as emphatic
as feminine views are apt to be, on what
ever subject, and the question gets ar
gued between. believers and unbelievers,
wearers and non-wearers, an increasing
number of times every day.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
HOspitabIc.

$50, Mr.. Dowell, you were once mis-
sionary?"
eyes"
81 suppose you had some very inter
esting experiences among the canibals:"
ga number of them.
"Were they Hospitality disposed?"
"Well, they frequently seemed very
anxious to invite me to dinner. Wash
ington Post.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

! see AJAX In Lsadnn JhsTs : q hotel sog
.Ao e--lcsve szse q bridal ooaps@s- remarked
Amy
-EGsr ozrht 70 cal ]; &c 'Dove-o.<.7 adS-
~ Gszstz -Ezzaz~5zz'z Esa-s
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
whv She Broke the Engagement.

Maud-What made you break off your
engagement with young Van Numb?
Mabel-He wrote Sweets n the
sweet" on a box of caramels ne sent me.
II ifa
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Kill Them First.

Mrs. Bascom-Isn't it dreadful, the
fortunes that are inflicted on poor dumb
animals by these vivisectionists?
Mrs. Backlot-Awful! If they've got
to vivisect EN-, why can't they at least
have the mercy to kill the poor critters
first. I'd like 10 know?-Burlingto Free
pracS
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

The Lovers Ghoace.
slgo-zNe-s ca re railway EEss
49, der -rsA-1y 4 -zsir lZSs@s-
Ore fer lie ver.ZAzs EDss-cS E1nes.
.Arot1e- for ta= c@seET VASES
some -Es-E t2e e-lzrt .-cs--.zs-s lAi-.
Al soEs TIE vz2zs 4 F=-lLz7e 1-ss-,
BGG every z.sly -fec3s3 PAR
Nl-l - t1ey Ike re ;E=l-i o-s.~
--CASssg5 Es-GzA
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

- - -
made from dainty
and os thy ma
terials, has given
traditional pres
tige. And very re-
Gently themighty
Felix himsel
from the queen
city of fashion,
has sent out a
model of a di-
vided skirt that is
one beautiful and
bewildering mass
of lace and frills
and silk-a thing
that Minerva her
self would be
willing to sell her
owl and her
crown TO get. SO
! that the divided
S kirt is now a
= tarlSlGn fashion.
The Irish laun-
dress has become
so well accus-
toned To the ar
ticle that she no
longer asks, as she
did at first, "Do
yez gin'rauy have
it counted two or
.s1 IT.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Cowboy Medicine.
Life.

Coyote Pete-What yer prscticin' fer,
Ike: Got . grudse ag'in' some one:
Deadly Ike-Naw; but me pard in
shar's got a touch of rheumatic an N
maxim porous plaster fer him--Puck.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13

lumber (who knows it alD-Why,
don't you know? 1t stands for ''yidder."
Chicago Times.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
The French "Veuve."

Booker "a seeker after knowledge
What is the abbreviation '-V" which so
frequently precedes the names of French
l.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
Eagle
0F THE DIVIDED SKIRT.
IS. TTaAN EVOLUTION OR DID, 1T
COME INTO BEING COMPLETE?

Florence .Finch-KelIy Compares 1t to the
BloOrner, the Trousers of the Turkish
Woman and the Dress of the Chinese
Woman.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1890-04-13
E. R POWELL. President. RI. BEAN. y.Pre
F. W. WALLER. Jr-, Cashier.
DIRECTORS:

Il. 7. Bean E. B. Powell, o. D. Barnes. L. r. Cole
Amos l. Houk, +. w. Waller, G. W. Larrime-, Jos
Morse, B. q. Graves
The evening world., 1890-05-21
THE SILENT

Everybody remembers the immortal ME-
Sairsy Camp and her devotion TO 4 certain
Mrs. Arms whom nobody ever saw; also,
the chaotic condition precipitatod by the
luminous Mrs. Bctsey pric when she boldly
asserted 'Idont believe there's no SIGH q
person." IL Ia this idea OF an imaginary en-
tity In the midst Of everyday life that Mr..
Herbert Hall Winslow has sought to imbed
in a farce called THE silent PNrtne'. pro-
duced for the second time at the Fourteenth
Street Theatre last night.
Mr.. Winslow. however. takes a New York
lawyer and permits him to indulge IN AN
imaginary partner, the result being some
complications that are funny and others
that hardly lend Themselves to the hilatity
Of farce. The escaradc Of Sidney Bsck2s.
rs the young lawyer. is, however. on tue
whole. scarcely q subject for laughter. Con-
yincing farce can be spontaneous only when
1t arises from conditions that are absolutely
harmless. ard that do not make you stOp 20
inquire. lis that right?'
am assuming, however. that Mr. Wins
low calls The silent Partner 4 farce,
which he doesn't. lie says it is u comedy.
To my mind IL IL moro OF q farcn-comedY,
without songs and dances. 1t has the INFO.
herencc and the bolstrrous irregulatitv Of
the fa~rce-comedy. The little serious is-uo
Of the man of the world with \ skeleton in
his closet. " which Mr.. Winslow probably le-
lies upon TO raise lis play To the dignity of
comedy, Is utterly ridiculous amt distinctly
out of place. Tho Silent Partner" will
never bc n comedy without complete rcooii-
struciion. One strain Of Little Annie
Rooney and 1t will 10 a farce-comody of the
approved style.
Here | am quibbling about tho Nhat.i5.
it-ncss of "1hc Silont Partner. just as
though it mattcrcd. The play frequently
cause tic eNrbeTant ones in an audience
to laugh. while il occasionally EFFORTS n emilio
from the moro cVacting members. MIR.
Minslow is surely a bright young man, AMI
equally surely we shall hear from him vCry
often in the future. Here is one Of his
Qujps:
"Oh. | think love In a cottage must be 10
nice. +" says MabU'.
YES, il you own tho cottAec.' rcparteeg
Sidney. Miss Mabel has also n very funny
speech about n ~"lovcly murderer, " to whom
ehe IL conveying tlowCra. In fact. there are
many bright things III 1.-The silent Part
ncr. - and also much hat IL tedious. In the
second act misunderstanding becomes 10
perpetual that IL fails to be funny by lacs OF
contrast with understanding.
j. H.. Polk certainly doesn't look tho rcl-
licking young lawyer. In fact. he has none
of the extravaganza, fire. intoxication,
wit, that belong to farce. Backus's esca-
pade might have been pardoned much more
easily had the lawyer been the gay young
dog " Mr.. Winslow surely intended him TO
be. Polk looks anything but n gay young
dog.
Miss Soule has II very agreeable person-
Atty and eli ability that should fit her for
far higher things. Mrs. Fanny Denham
Rouse is rather vulgar az Mrs. sackett. and
Miss Polk absurdly out of place as a young
typewriter. All that Mr.. Willard Lee has to
DO is to wear clothes and laugh. He wears
clothes and laughs very well indeed.
ALAN DALE.
The evening world., 1890-05-21
SARAH BERNHARDT'S PASS.
She Nearly Destroyed a Valuable
BcoS in Writing It.

She Nearly Destroyed a Valuable
BcoS in Writing It..
II remember, " said my bookish friend.
with II laugh, "afunny thing Which Sarah
fornEnrdt did IN our store when she was
last EUrc," says IL writer in the Boston
Journal. "Sho dropped in IL morning
and, OF coarse. all were exceedingly
anxious to wait upon her.
Finally it resolved itself rs my duty,
and l sold her quite a hill of books. I
showed the great actress every attention.
and she seemed pleased, just as she was
about going out she reached for my rem
Gil, and asked me something IN French
which ] did not understand.
Seeing that j failed to catch her
meaning she looked all around on the
counters, hut apparently did not SEE what
she wanted. Then, quick as n fash, be-
fore j could comprehend her aim, she
took up Il volume of one of the very best
sets of Scott in the store. bound in tree
calf, opened it to the bastard pages, wrote
something on il, calmly tore out the lenf.
handed it TO me, smiled ana went out.
"On looking at the Leaf. she had writ
ten or It a pass for two to her perform
ance that evening +! But she did II at tho
cost of nearly running IL OF our lost sets
of books in the stOre.h
The evening world., 1890-05-21

Whenever the Queen goes to or comes
from Balmoral Castle she sends her check
for 81. 900 to defray the railway expenses
of the journey. Five thousand dollars is
a considerable sum. yet II does not begin
to pay the cost of the journey. In the
first place, Her Majesty has TO have n
special train; this train is preceded by O
pilot engine; no other trans can pre-
cede or follow this special train within
the space of twenty minutes; this special
train Is under the personal supervision OF
the general passenger agent OF the road,
and he is accompanied by the chief en-
gineeI and other heads of departments,
eyen down to an upholsterer. who's ser
vices may be required by the breaking OF
q chair or the dislodgment OF q couch.
The Queen sometimes prefers to travel
slowly; in that event speed is s~lackened,
or, in case Her Majesty wishes to travel
faster. the speed ID increased; the train
is wholly at the Queens command and
not unfrequently tedious stops are made,
thereby stopping traffic along the whole
line. a.,
But the enormous expense is incurred
in the practice of having the entire
length of the road pOliced while the
special train is en- route. Trusted watch
men are stationed 500 yards distant from
one another along the entire line and
they signal to the approaching train when
all Is we'll or when there Is the least sus-
piciOn of evil.
The evening world., 1890-05-21
OYSTERS GOOD IN SUMMER.
They Arc smaller, but by No Means
Unhealthy.

iHSJ AlC Gilu4cAg ~ ~ 49, "S"'S
Unhealthy.
The old idea that formerly possessed
every Il that oysters III Summer tlme
an unhealthy was long ago exploded"
said w. d. Rector during q chat with q
Chicago Post reporter.
THE oysters that are gniEere;i in Sn;n-
mor a;e smaller than those gathered ia
Winter, Lut they are every uit rs surcu-
lent and are i'll no sense unhealthy. 4
good many people prefer thu oysters
that are served in summer; but as for
myself. when hot weather comes tie de-
sire for oysters takes its leave.
mot that J do not believe oysters IL
be as good Que season as another, but
there Is no craving ON my part for 10 ii-
valve during the Summer months.
IAN of nv oysters come from Princess
Bay, near New York City. In the StIts
OF Maryland there rs a law which proiih-
its the dredging Of oysters during tho
months of May. June. July and August.
| presume thRt this is done to protect
them during tie breeding season.
There i. little time lost IN shipDirg
oysters. 1t is not good TO hold them, 10
cause they lose their flavor, and SO within
four days after they are taken fro'I he
water they are served to the Chicago pub
lie. -
The evening world., 1890-05-21
Too Young to Marry, Anyhow.

TO the Editor.
Without regarding the facetious side Of
this question there can be but little doubt
that the lack Of money is by far the most
effectual barrier in the way of lovesick
youths and blushing maidens. Unless a
young man is particularly favored by Dame
Fortune-that proverbially tickle lady-it ia
sag, to, say that hi, wages, are 20 low that 1t
would be the height OF tho ridiculous for
him to take unto himself q wife,"
Glance through The WORLDS want coll
umns and notice how many advertisers de-
sire-or rather rennire-that applicants for
the positions advertised reside with their
parents. And why this stipulation 2 Simply
because the wages they intend paying are
such that. no young man could possibly live
on them n, he had to pay for his board. BY
strict application to his duty n young man
will. OF course, become OF more value to his
employers and his wages will be GORE
apondingly increased. but in all probable
ity it will be several years before his
finances are in, such q stable condition as to
warrant him choosing q helpmeet.
ONE Who Knows.
The evening world., 1890-05-21
ALGERIAN VEGETABLES.

Partisan Markets Stocked with Po-
tatoes, caulinower and Lettuce.
Early potatoes from Algiers have al
ready begun to display themselves In
abundance in the great markets of Paris,
where plentiful supplies Of caulihowers
and asparagus have preceded them by
some weeks, says the London Daily NeIos.
These and French ~lettuees are stated to
be the only kinds of fresh vegetables
that bear the journey, when properly
packed, without injury, but altogether
there is a very considerable trade in yege-
tables between France and her Algerian
possessions, especially between the mid
die of December aud the end of January.
According to all appearances the sup
ply is likely to 90 ON increasing. for as
iTrigation-whieh IS the great secTet-in-
cTeases. III e area devoted to market gar
dening is constantly enlarged.
The evening world., 1890-05-21
Fear the Responsibility.

"a Editor!
ana question Of marriage lies with the
ounE man. His eourtship begins early
pa snds lats- He commences his court
Ae when he should bs developing his
md He nsVsr consults himself as re-
eId his hnAneiAl condition in the near
etoEs. What money he makes he must
PS9nd 70 keep up with the temptations Of
~ Sorld. A time comes when he feels
u he ought 10 get married. settle down
hat Il where he stands. The girl is
saanng 70 hear the word. but he is silent.
trough his own self. Dress Is his hobby.
Seetner with cigarettes and beverages.
1s doesn't feel capable of taking the re-
Sensi9ility Of Ahome on his shoulders.
= y the financial condition of young
= brought on by themselves, that
nAAss u ask Why they don't marry"
X. TaERE.