The sun., 1890-05-25

tntIona OF FcmlniuitY-The Arms of Wo
mcn-A Romnnce or Mature Lie.
There Ia n peculiar fascination to the fcmi
nine mind In tho contemplation OF court
dress. Tho richness Of the brocado tho mag
nilcence OF tho Jewels. tho prcelossness OF the
laces. the lavish use OF material. tho spendor
sumptuousncss, and usclessnoss OF 1t all tho
importance Of the occasion on which it nn-
pears all combine to enl "A charm to tho spec
tacle oven for those who may never take any
active part in tho imposing ceremony Dress
reaches its apothcosis and tho woman's soul
regards 1t with reverence. Ndro bits OF old
point mako their appearance, jewels which
flash only on roYnl occasions como out OF
gloomy vaults and secret hiding places bro
cades trail thoir splendid lcngths, so magnn-
cont that but n bit on collar or sleeve would
transform plain gown into elegance. and
hero aro yards upon yards of the shimmerirg.
cleaning stuff, ir!cd round with lacos or bor-
dered with hoavy plumes The May drawing
room was ono OF the most brilliant in years.
save for the weather. Tho rain came down i'll
torrents running some rich Dresses as they
swept out over the sOddon scarlet carpet be-
meath the dripping canopy. Tho Court journal
devotes several pages to th9 event and
from 1t is gathered that thcro was much
that was essentially new in these wonder
full gowns. and many piquaut revivals from
court dress consists of low bodice. pointed
back and front, and laced Mt the back. u
sweeping train depending from either one or
both shoulders. with braces, fastened 10 the
belt beneath the point OF the bodice or falling
in heavy pleats from the shoulders. like u
royal MANTLE and worn over pettcoat richly
embroidered or festooned with costly lace
But the conventional bodice has given place
to great variety OF waists which no
tgrP F.o,, Lao
There were Directoire bodces with hugo
revers turned back and fastened with dia-
mond or old silver buckles, high Tudor epau-
letes entwined with pearls. large outstanding
wind rutIs. recalling the Medci period. and
small Bolero jackets entirely covered with
jewels. In all the drapings, one idea pre-
rcry covering the bust should be hid
den by Jewels. Some, OF the bodtces
and 6aeSs OF one Go9s VIII fronts Of
rotnt, in Eli2abethan style. the edge Of, the
quite generally worn. The trains are growing !
longer and narrower. and the chief distinction
the rest OF the drawing room world j. that the
Ioya! ladies have attached to the backs OF their
ratey decorated with ruchings or lace caught
together half way down, the train being
the arm. and never laid down in the presence
chamber, which accounts for it's peculiar fash
1OnllE anu arranEen neut 10 render IL as light as
possible as it is no easy matter to stand with a
train over your arm for two hours. Thick
rnfhes to .. % lnie @ we're placed M BON inside anI
tho haudsuuGst hrocados were not trimmed nj
all. but finished with rou!oau OF wa aiGing in
lhe edge to maze it stand out firmly. $ome OF
the trans had deep border ot embroidery.
and others were finished with ruche
tangled The fnvorite material was brocade of
the greatest richness and mnsnitcence;. Tho
an occasional dash OF brilliant hue heighten-
ing the effect Of subtler tnrings, Pink and
yellow seemed the fa"Orie cUlors, blended with
neutral tint-. pae green or white. Gold and
silver appeared extensively on all tho costumes.
either in tine brorades or gallons used in deco I
ralin Some Of tie rich brocades had exquisite
borders WoyeA NJ qnI % Of them az tnose worn
from tho old dnys OF Louis Nv. with creamy {
ground apparently meliowed by age, scattered :
united with scroll work Of blossoms, and he c
latter survival OF the Umpire period. in u c
design, apparently REPRESENTING some special
arms. and worn with II train OF brown velvet 6
falling from the lett shoulder.
The level par excellence was the diamond >
which flashed IFS srurknng rays SO splenqldy !
in most rases. WIS dressed high to show OF t
the Jewels eGtrctually. and the tlarus. all OK 9
tremely large. were worn further back than = =
usual. Some were formed oI briants OF ]
grea: size. widening in the CENTRE others OF {
graduated stars attached to an Invisible oun- =,
,ation Kay stars were worn on the side OF the
head in tho shape OF crescents while smaller @
rlesccnts Of the same Jewels crossed the bodice v
and formed the centro 10 bows Of ribbon deco q
rating tho side OF the skirt. Flights OF birds
In diamonds ard precious gems crossed the 7
The skirts The Duchess Of Edinburgh wore !
wonderful and exquisite belt Of sapphres, and !
W ,e ~, HurnesI o. dortands bodice WIS encrust;
)oarls adorned fair d'butantes with charming C
,ileot. outlining the youthful figures. The v
aces worn were rather more beautiful than s
lsual priceless hoirlooms being brought forth !.
md made to do duty in this sPended pageant; I
nFnh ANN nnhn Ia hnrIn EnH
Srocade was frllIed viii old irish lace. Costly +
cen, too, among the supor6 ana priceless rel. 4
cs OF bygone glory worn by the descendants t
But the glory Of tho drawing room was its s
wealth OF floral teauttes trailing Ia perfumed j.
o"s or geP BsSces Of Sst S9d Of o
rimmrg on the gowns took the form of chHte- n
aincs or foot ruChos. and the latter were II
ordered with a iiouneo Of orchids. @ sot in q
rinGes OF grass, then laburnums. lilacs. carna- Il
ions. OF tiny pGnses were set close in q, bor- "
or nine INCHES deep. mingled with bows OF rib b
on. Ruches Of heath we're worn by the p
rinees OF ny OF tho valley fell against the II
linperS. and trellises OF vines and blossoms 9i
oyered tue retticoats. A woman ,wlthouta +
onyentionnl white gloves. and those pOslcs q
'ere wonderfully fashioned. Spring flowers d,
tchids, Heliolroro iris tied with EpnG lavon- eI
er r,bbons,nnd rOseLL4- with the new shroud.
ayer were tied with velvet butterfly bows. bC
lack roses in combination with their sisters In 10
,rlghter hues wero II iayorito choice: orchid 10
louhced dresses were accompanied by orchid ci
,osies tied with long ribbons with butter Ia
~ bows' in which nestled buds OF the same al
lower green court dress Of Lyons velvet vC
ial i q poSy ol mlGnonctto and foliage mud o!
tHbnthnteS carried tho lucky white heather NJ
: igcE Ia seemed TO be u 'nvorit, color lol tie "a
I, pp ", rs, nd with the rght buds pcepng OUT ly
,! me SOmhre knots ol ribbon. Young Eirlgrur. III
EiSa Es dGNgG-s'ts lnns With he rLs outIinoI with q
\ ne o nYWeFH decorating tGcir gowns. and Lady W
Nofelhhrh h"n2ie ulsplay oG the most lniILe II 10
~ dIG9fMaton, % M buncho. OF oranges on the h
lraping tho train. Fruit IL rarely used az a 10
taTnlture 10 dresses, even amid the splendor III
II tho drawing room. w
great deal OF tullo was seon among the III
Young girls dresses and sOmo of tho newer
gowns Wers composed entirely OF silk, creme st
10 chine or mousscIine chiffon. For trans thoy pC
lad the choicest OF satin, DroCnd d or plain ic
lk In white or delicate cOl0rs. IN" bob; bod tu
co was III" iayorIlo waist and consisted SIM 70
Ily ui hCulgo"i 0i si.E edged with tinsHl gu- IN
on, mectiu- soft gllloriug- o. aioorhoue or ns
'hinon. \ curious quest on arOsr, and was do ~