The Ohio Democrat. (Logan, O. [Ohio]) 1886-1906, 1890-11-29
A MEXICAN TAMALERO.
Chat with Ono of These Curious street
Corner Merchants.

| Cnag WIN One OIL lneNe SuFlOuH Strce
Corner Merchants.
Juan Gonzales, q vender OF chile cor
carne and tamales-the latter looking
like poultices-is a Mexican far above
the intelligence Of his guild, and is the
inventor OF a device of keeping hi.
dishes warm. Juan, who is n cashierec
Mexican army ofl.cor, speaks Spanish
Of course, and is as garrulous as bar
Der. Dishing out dimes worth Of
tamales last night he discoursed about
his business in the United States, say
ing: "Mexican dishes are rapidly com
ing in favor here because they are
healthy, and in the interest Of economy
and reform. This Is sort of city
council translation of Juan's Spanish.
You see the garlic in them kills the
worms; the pepper slaves off malaria,
and then tho scraps CT meat that are
thrown away at dinner will make
enough chile con carne or tamales for
breakfast and supper and leave few to
pass around to the neighbors. When
came to Dallas six years ago there were
only six tamaleros in the CITY, or town,
as it then was; now there are about fifty
of us, and there is any amount of inquiry
from Mexico about Dallas"
"What does it cost to make tamales?"
"Well, we get our meat 'or about 81
cents 8 pound, our corn tor 80 cents n
bushel, lard costs about ten cents a
pound, and the corn shuchs to wrap the
meat in we can get at the fsed stores for
nothing. A dollars worth of raw ma
terial makes about $50 worth of tamales
and like amount of chile con carne.
Where business is brisk it Pays equal to
bar-room without license. Tamales
sell better here and are less costly to
make than in Mexico. Over there they
are put up in this way: The corn is
scalded with lime, which has the effect
of destroying its bitter fibers 1t is then
ground in metal, a sort of mortar made
OF a ferruginous sterre. 1t is next mixed
with pork or chicken and seasoned with
chile, garlic, oregano and caminos-tnis
is the seasoning described by Horace
used at the table of the patricians of
ancient Rome-after which it is
wrapped in corn shuck and is then
ready for cooking. When l first came to
Dallas / sold these regulation tamales,
but Americans soon after went into the
business and made compound of corn
meal, red pepper and beef which seemed
to answer just as we'll, and being cheaper
would have run us out of the market If
we had not resorted to the same
cheap preparation. Chile con carne
has been subjected to like de-
generation, and is made Of cheap
beef, chile and grease without fine
seasoning. Notwithstanding this the
consumption of both these arti-
clos has increased in Dallas even above
its population. When ! first came here
the business did not run over $1,000 a
year; now it runs over $50, 900 year.
A party of us are thinking of starting
regular Mexican restaurant here with q
bill of fare consisting of chile con carne,
tamales, tortillas, enchiladas, calrita
and such drinks as pulque and me2cal.
This is President Diaz' bill of fare, and
it is hard to beat. The trouble with
American cooking is that it does not sit
gently on the stomach in hot climate
The grease with which it is saturated
either leads to fat or dyspepsia, while
in our cuisine the seasoning counteracts
the grease and leaves the person thin
and muscular, and with his stomach al
ways stimulated and free from foreign
organisms. You can travel all over the
TERRA callente of Mexico without find
ing tat man. And yet the people there
are possessed of wonderful endurance,
so much so that the troops have fire.
quently made fifty miles day in forced
marches, and it used not to be an un-
common thing to see man start out
from Tuxpan or Tampico on tramp of
nifty miles with a sewing-machine on
his back. Buenos tardes, nor."-Dallas
(Tex \ NewS