Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1890-06-19
speciai FOREIGN Correspondence eJae Register

dering nations. An advantage gained,
however, is that our minister
HAS \ GOOD EXCUSE
for leaving Athens in the hot season, as
he can always devote that time to duties
in Roumania, where it is cool and pleas
ant-a kind Of summer residence. Col.
Snowden is a fine-looking man, very af-
fable in manners, and wins your good
will at once. Although he has been in
Athens less than year, learned that
he is already the most popular foreign
ambassador there. | asked him what
he thought of Greece, and he expressed
himself as highly pleased with their
government and with the people, but
added that he knew of "a couHtry he
liked better"
Among the passengers who received
special attention were the wives OF the
Russian Minister to Greece and OF the
Greek Minister TO Turkey. They en-
barked and dsembarked under the flags
of their respective nations, had the at
tendance of officers in uniform and un-
numbered maids and escorts with bou-
qucts in profuson.
| thought the Russian lady was quite
pretty and was wondering how that
rough-looking old Russian ever won her
favor, when saw her smoking cigar
ette. and the charm was gone. But
then in this country il is
QUITE TIE THING
for ladies to smoke.
As we came near Constantinoplc the
American flag was raised by the side OF
the ships flag in honor of our AmbaSSa-
dor, and it was good for weary eyes and
homesick hearts.
The voyage is without interest until
you reach the DardanelleS the second
day out. The strait is very narrow at
its entrance. and | noticed the officers
seemed anxious to get through before
dark. 1t is strongly fortified on both
sides with Turkish garriSOnS. The an
cient city of Troy, where interesting eX-
cavatiOnS are now going on, is about
five hours east of the port Of Dardancl-
les.
In two or three hours more we are
well out into the sea of Marmora. This
sea looks small on our maps, but it re-
lllItS IL ulEll VI lhIlh HdiiibS w ~ Ah'
length. In the morning the sea is mar
rowing down to the BoSphorus and we
are approaching Constantinoplc.
The great city with its hundreds OF
mosques and minaretS makes beauti-
full appearance from the water, Instead
Of going on through the BoSphorus our
vessel swings To the left and enters the
Golden Horn. The Golden Horn is not
neck Of land, aS supposed, but body
of water. not unlike Il horn in shape.
piercing the land toward the west, fur
nishing a splendid harbOr and dividing
the city into two parts. South of the
horn is Stamboul orcold ConstantinOple;
north is
THE NEWER PORTION
of the city. divided into two parts. Pera
and Galata. In Pera the principal ho-
tells are located and the Frank shops.
The BazaarS and Mohammedan quar-
tcrs are chiefly in Stamboul. Then to
the east. across the BOSphoruS. is Sou
tart. which is a part of ConStantinoplc,
but really 4 city of itself. Altogether
there is population of about million.
Our arrival was on Friday, the Mo
hammedan Sunday, and as soon as we
had breakfaSted we were hurried away
to witness the great event of the week
His Majesty the Sultan going to church.
Every Sultan builds his mosque, which
is called by his name, and the present
ruler has his near his palace, in the
northern edge of the city. On Fridays,
between twelve and one clock, with
great military display, he visits the
mosque and has his dcvotions. after
which he usually reviews the troops.
We were early, but hundreds of car
riageS and crowds of people were already
gathered. The army Of infantry was
stationed along the ncighboring streets
and around the mosque itself. Soon
companies OF cavalry
CAME GALLOPING Up
and formed in the open space at the
side OF the mosque We counted nearly
a thousand horScS-half white and half
black-large. beautiful animals. spen-
didlv harnesSed. and mounted chiefly
by lanccrs. Several carriages contain
ing officers in full uniform. drove rap
idly up to the palace and disappeared.
In a few minutes the Sultan'S Guard
issued from the palace enclosure. There
was blast of a trumpet. and the carri-
ages Ieappcarcd. Then n great strain
ing of necks to see His Majesty. who
sat i'm the first carriage with three OF
his officers. As the procession advanced
the whole army Saluted their chief.
Just as the front carriage turned into
the gateway of the Mosque the Muezzin
appeared on the tall minaret and sound
ed the call to prayer. God is great.
There is no God but God, and MOham-
med is his prophet. Come to prayer
To pray is better than to sleep.
The Sultan looks like many another
man. with black hair, short black mus
tache and beard, neither very old nor
very Young. have not enough adml-
ration for him to call him handsome.
He was in uniform and wore a red tar
bush or fez cap. which, by the way,
TIE DISTINGUISHING HEAD DRESS
Of every Mohammeden, from the chief
ruler to the smallest boy who repeats
the Koran.
Later in the day when we We're III the
magnificent Mosque of 1T. Sophia, in
the StambOu quarter, asked the guide
il the Sultan never came to that Mosque.
He said, No, he Is afraid" And 50 !
discovered that the military Is called
out on Fridays, not merely for display.
but for protection, while the chief ruler
ventures few rods from his house.
What a pleasant thing it must be TO be
Sultan-afraid to go out of doors lest he
meet the fate of some of his predeces-
sorsl
The street scenes OF Constantlnople
resemble those OF Cairo; hut the streets
are wider, and the western style OF dress
more common. Many of the houses
have the lattice screens before the win
dows. so that the women can look out
without being seen. and when the poor
creatures appear on the street they are
closely yelled as in Egypt and Syria.
The law of the country allows every
Mohammedan. who can afford it, four
wives. but even when he has so many,
he lives in constant terror, lest some