Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-07-12

| creeping vines, moro lovely in tint and more
| ingenious in their trelliswork than any to bx
found in England or America trained by the
| hand OF man. We passed many pleasant look
ing Villages, nesting peacefully under the
shadow OF trees, kindly stretching forth thei,
| green branohea
| BEAUTIFUL suEsEra
There II little or no twilight in Africa
| although its sunsets are beautiful beyond de.
scription or comparison. When the suns dish
first reaches the horizon II presents the aspec,
of the open door OF blast furnace at its
greatest heat Within six and ten minutes you
have Q transformation marvelousIy beautiful,
for now . considerable distance along the
| brazen pathway of the retiring king Of day are
| the most beautiful tints ever witnessed by
human eyes. Along the edge of the horizon ID
| that peculiar color Of the pearl 90 much de-
| sired by the expert merchant Of that precious
gem; while just above ii ia the creamy and ex-
quisite tint of the rich peach blending with the
plum purple still further up the horizon. One
moment Of pleasure is left you; there is now
one large spot Of the horizon like an exquis-
| itely polished block Of alabaster.
We had an early moon-so early that there
| seemed to be no interim between the reign of
the king OF day and that of the queen of
! night. The moonlight in a tropical country is
certainly enchanting, the profuse and deep
green foliage combining to make lovely scene.
"
banana trees, low but spreading their long
blades Like 80 many Damascus swords and at
every rush of the wind turning their blades
like Knights in deadly combat, and scattering
tine SOFT, slivery light OF the moon like the
crystal spray OF fountain. Now and again We
came upon tho native fisherman. trapping the
fish with his net by the glaring light of rude
nambeau At one village we found funeral
wake In full excitement the people bowling,
gesticnlating and rushing about the corpse,
mnnh altar vno ~
Indiana
The creek now began to widen, and soon our
little boat swept out into the Congo, where its
banks were five miles apart In every direc-
ton the vast expanse of water seemed to be
surging against its banks, which, in the illusion
produced by the moonlight. seemed distant
as the horizon. At $50 pm. We reached the
Dutch and English trading houses at Ponta de
Lenna. Leaving Ponta de Lehna on the fol-
lowing morning at 9 o'clock We reached the
island of Mataba at few minutes past 1 O'Clock,
having followed the left bank Of the river to
examine the nature Of the country, the most Of
which could be used for the cultivation of rice
and coffee. The Belgians who are occupying
Mataba gave us cordial greeting, and We re-
NAMED long enough to have luncheon. They
are endeavoring to cultivate this island and
have introduced a machine for extracting oil
from the palm nut, and it is said to work admir-
ably. From Mataba up on the Congo we
were favored with strong breeze, which
niied our sails and carried our little bark along
brlskly, but long ere the sun set the breeze
abated, and the clouds began to gather in the
south We passed a number Of beautiful
islands with few, and sometimes no inhabi-
tants; islands green and fair to see, around
whose green velvet skirts, fringed with soft
sand, fine and white, the wild duck and grace
full stork wandered in peaceful security. Some
times we passed what seemed to be the mouth
OF very small creek, but the waters soon find
themselves imprisoned by banks Of hard yell
low clay; aud here, but few hundred yards
from the Congo river, the hippopotami refresh
themselves In the long cool grass and hide
from the deadly rifle Of the hunter. Under the
most favorable circumstances we did not ex-
pect to reach Bomba until s o'clock in the
evening. but now we found that we we're not
only without wind for our sails but had a dead
head wind and current against us, rushing at
the rate of five knots an hour.
IN AN AFRICAN STORM.
thunder storm had sprung up to the south
ward and the violence Of the wind had driven
our boat into the tall grass on the eastern
bank. The darkness had now settled over us,
and we began to prepare for fierce struggle
with an African storm. We were now between
the devil and the deep sea. On one hand we
were threatened by the hippopotami, who could
easily turn our boat over, and on the other
the water threatened to swamp our boat The
native bOatmen toiled hard to gain head
way. and think we went forward at the rate
OF one mile per hour, SO strong were the cur
rent and wind. At times We we're caught in
violent whirlpools and spun around like a
schOoiboys top. We had no anchor; we could
find no land along the left bank. and to attempt
to cross the river would have been deliberate
suicide We were compelled to work our way
along the tall grass which stood in water hun
dreds Of feet from the solid ground We could not
stop, else the current would sweep US down the
river, and progress was difficult To increase
our vexations the Congo mosquito INDUCED
himself freely upon the naked bodies of our
native crew, and bit my ankles 80 badly that
came more vivid and the thunder more loud
and defiant The storm seemed moving down
the river to our right and another one seemed
to move from the east to the west, and almost
above us, at an angle of forty-fve degrees,
when, strange to say, the clouds parted and,
like an investing army, marched in columns to
the right and left, leaving the sky above US
clear, and now faint light from the moon
streamed through.
We toiled on all night and an idea Of the
desperate struggle we had with wind and wave
may be had when say that we saw the lights
upon ship at Bona at 10 o'clock at night, and,
although we never rested a moment, it was half
past o'clock the next morning when we reached
that place. A few hippopotami grunted
around us, but did not interfere with our
boat.
From Banana to Bona the country on both
sides Of the river is a low, undulating plain but
from Bomba to Matadi it is high and noun
famous The change in the country is abrupt
and extreme. and the waters are fretted by in
Vulnerable whirIpools, and as l desired to see
this part of the river by daylight I travelled
only by day and occupied three days, trip
easily made in five hours by small steamer
made four stops-at Mussuco and Noaui, in
Portuguese territory, where 1 was Hospitality
entertained. and at Ango-Ango and Fuca-Fuca,
in the State of Congo.
IRON BomUa to Matadi there are no creeks
to traverse the population is SPARSE the soil is
sterile and the trade is light though profitable
and consists of rubber, coffee and ivory.
have just walked over the surveyed route of
the proposed Congo railway, from Matadi to
the mouth of the Mpozo river. and returned
over the caravan road. In a few days l leave
for the Upper Congo, going as far az Stanley
Falls GEoRGE W. WI1I1AMs
Written for THE EVENING STAR.
Mein Gebet.
My Father, hear my prayer,
And let not dark despair,
Seize on my soul.
faint, gasp for breath,
The darkling waves of death
Around me roll