The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1890-06-19
VANCOUVER RED MEN.
Travels OF Gen. Lyman Banks
on the Big Island.
SPIRIT DANCE AND PoTLATcH.
BlosAy Rsnisisesaces ~ Ffsnesv Days
Hesa - a.bsss sr 60 Dwsliers
Il the West Ceass.


81 The west Csass
Verona. June .6--From p. m. TIL the
next morning Was short notice tor . two
months trip 70 Qaatsino sound, . strange
and unsettled portion OF British Columbia.
bat IL sufiiced. Ny previous travels had
been within the states. and IL was quite .
surprise % be told that this ALASKA steamer
Was not permitted to land at any British
Port beyond Victoria, or even drop me-
overheard OF shore. and that Z monthIy
steamer Vas the only communication 20
the upper coast ports In winter. Fortu-
nateiy the day Of sailing Vas near. Yet
there was more than the needed time for
. careful look at vicsoria's sights-the Es-
qnimalt navy yard. park. Chinese quarters
and its many. though disigured By the an
siquased high board fences. still beautiful
and home-like residences % to Pass the
time ! visited The public library. By .
strange coincidence the first hook taken
WAS m old number Of Ha,pey's Nagasine.
containing an article on the Indians was
TO be among. stating among other attrac-
tons that they never came down the coast
without taking back the head Of . white
man on . spear. This stimulated curiosity,
and inquiry disclosed that they we're still
cannibaIs and comparatively Wild: that in
the frenzy of the cannibai dance they rush
out and bite piece from the FIRST person
met; also. on good authority, that only =
few years ago . spectator, remarking that
he would knock down any one biting him,
was himself knocked down. dismembered
ard eaten while still warm. This was not
reassuring. but in the hope that the Indians
had changed for the better, the journey
was resumed.
Beaver harbor is twenty miles from
Alert bay. the nearest port There is no
landing place, but the captain of the Sar-
donyx ran the boat in as near IS be dared.
about mile OF shore. and sounded the
steam whistle vigorously. Ii was very
dark. just before dawn. and cloudy. After
what seemed long delay. the dip OF pad
dies was heard, and later . canoe came
alongside. My boyho0d experience OF the
capsizing ability Of = Mississippi river dug
out did not encourage me to embark in one
on dark night, with unknown Indians,
in strange waters and . mile from shore,
but it had to be done. The canoe was in
NN0a KU Va sxE0NkS AAah&s - AAoAh 0tScos WCiA
posted about localities. good interpreter,
an ex-Dominion policeman. but of decided
Indian prociivitles. Though willing to
draw pay he disliked much physical exer-
ton to earui1
OLD EoRr RUPERT.
The landing was at old Fort Rupert, once
aninportant post OF the Hudson Bay COM
pany. Then il vas stockade about 400
feet square and eighteen feet high above
ground, with . gallery for sentinels and
6ghting purposes about four fost from the
top Ill around, . basticn at each corner.
and two cannon in each OF the four
bastions. and garrisoned by three officers
and sixty men. Then the Indians num-
bered thousands, and their entire dress Was
a simple mop of frayed cedar bark, held in
place by string around the loins. Now
there are scarcely 200, and the dress varies
from simple blanket to the usual whites
clothing the avtslge being shirt, blanket
and straw hat
The fort and store are now the property
OF Robert Hunt. who is reliable, careful
man. typical Englishman, who, IL seen
in England. would be taken for well-to-do
gardner or farmer who had never been
beyond his shire town, 90 conservative is
he in look and actions. Yet be had the
adventurous spiris TO brave i've and .
half months sea voyage. and forty years
ago come to this. even now. frontier place,
in the employ of the Hudson Bay Com
pany.
THE SCENE OF cANNIBAL FEAsTs.
George, whose services were secured, con-
sidering the trail impossible, the long and
dangerous canoe route was determined on.
The siwash being averse to work. We waited
weeks for q favorable wind. When We
were well away the wind increased to q
gale, the waves threatened to swamp Us
and dashed high on the abrupt. slippery
rocks of the shore, but we kept afioat and
reached sheitering channel, wet but safe.
At Nahwitte we came on the cannibal
feast previously described. These Nah
wittees ere expert canoeists and considered
fearless, going thirty and forty miles into
open ocean fishing. So We tried better
canoe and an increase to our crew.
They. however. would not venture across
Nahwitse bar except with . northeast wind,
claiming that otherwise the waves would
be mast high. II was the time of winter
feasts. and their nights we're feasts and
dancing, while the days were given to
sleep.
Tired OF waiting for the wind, We re-
turned to Fort Rupert, tried the trail but
were discounted by il. We tried Nahwitte
again At the new moon, expecting a change
OF wind. bat. failing in that. again re turned
TO Fort Rupert. aud as there had been
some rains. determined to force . way
across. George agreed to 60 after days
rest. bat the next day he avoided us and.
when sought, Was evasive till decisive
answer was demanded. when he refused To
start He was given till evening to change
his mind. He then agreed to make an
early start with two Indian packers, hus as
usual with him, IL was before Q move was
made.
rHE rsrrHLKss rSpfsss
From his actions at Nahwitse and now.
/, Was evident that he feared 10 20 To Qaaf-
sino for some cause. and the cause of this
fear would be concealed If We we're pre-
vented from gong. Oar suspicious were
verified later. Even ~ the start he looked
ali about for hisxed trees on q trail that he
and fifteen men had been weeks making,
and had crossed in the fall. Thanks TO
Mr.. Hunts advice. was rear guard, for
scarcely half miie out one Indian started
q retreat tie xas detained long enough
20 take roll of bacon from his pack. and
let go on win the balance Another mile
and the other Indian wanted 10 return.
eas Was persuaded TO go on. Soon George
claimed TO have lost the trail, and would
so no farther Without q word OF pargev.
they we're ordered 10 usassring their packs