The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1890-02-22
THE HON Z.
FASHION NOTES.

THE HOME.
FASHION NOTES.
High sh0uldered effects are likely to con-
tinue popular during the spring.
The Fife travelling cloak Is another
name for the Connemara cloak, when made
| of plaid.
The full enveloping cloaks worn with trav-
cling costumes are known as douillettes, and
are completed by Sultana sleeves, which are
really capes, of which the sleeves form a
| surah
Velvet ribbons are used lengthwise to trim
| skirts. An effective way is to fasten them
at the belt, then let them drop in loops a
short distance, when they fall plain to the
hem. where they are finished with forked
| ends or are fastened with rosettes.
Stylish shoulder capes of silk or velvet are
being prepared for spring wear. They are
| overlaid with rich passementeries in pointed
trellis designs. Large epaulettes Of the
| same are placed on the shoulders, and when
the shoulders are too high to admit Of
epaulettes, long, slender ornaments are used,
which reach from the top Of the armhole
down the seam to the end of the cape.
The colors fashionable in cashmeres are
repeated in Scotch ginghams, and black
stripes or bars Of satteen are seen in many
of the new patterns.
Bordered ginghams are so wide that the
width serves for the length of the skirt, the
border forming. the skirt trimming. The
borders are wide, and Of Scotch plaid, of
have graduated stripes of the new designs in
vines.
White embroidered muslns will be used to
trim Scotch gingham dresses, as yokes, col
lars, cuffs, Spanish jackets, and as insertions
in the skirts.
Plaid bingham dresses are made up on the
bias throughout, with round belted waists,
slightly full at the belt, but plain ON the
shoulders.
The rage for velvet sleeves is increasing
lisses and newmarkets. The bishop style Is
used for wraps, and the leg-0f-mutton for
dresses.
y Stripes in all widths are seen in the new
zephyr ginghams, which are so exquisitely
finished as to resemble silk. The prevailing
styles are inch-wide stripes with brocaded
floral design in same color alternating with
narrow lace stripes of white or cream, with
perhaps thread of color run through the
meshes.
VINEGAR PLANT.
The vinegar plant, so-called, is not in
reality plant, but fungus-)ookiDg sub
stance more commonly known as mother Of
vinegar" 1t forms in the vinegar. is part
of it, and. by some mysterious process,
is called mother" for the more mother
there is the stronger and better the vinegar,
which has probably given use to the old say
ing that good vinegar always has plenty of
mother in it" and it seems to me in this
fact that there is striking resemblance to
human nature
For the benefit Of those who may not un-
derstand, will say that If you place Jar of
sweetened water where it will get heat and
air, 1t will become vinegar in due time, but
will make in much less time if you have bit
OF the mother to start on. l well remember
when first resolved to make my own vine.
gar what time had to procure that very
necessary little article. Surprising that every
body knew all about it, | innocently asked
some of my neighb0rs for bit of mother of
vinegar. But they only stared at me. Then
l asked for vinegar plant with no better sue
cess. Determining not to give up, at last
went to the grocery and bought some cider
vinegar (Which l did not need, and, pouring
1t into an empty vessel, began to search for
that precious bit OF mother" / found 1t at
last.a very little bit, tablespoon would
hold 1t all-and | eagerly transferred it to my
jar in waiting. In few weeks time the
mother that had been held in a tablespoon
haze grown to an inch in thickness, and was
as large around as small-sized dinner plate,
completely filling the mouth OF the jar. oh,
what vinegar that was! Sharp enough to
make "pig squealv 1t almost makes my
mouth pucker now to think of it, and twas
so strong we had to dilute it with water be-
fore using! No need to go to the neigobors
now-it was their turn to come to me. And
vinegar-making business for years have come
to me to learn my process.
l have known many people, otherwise vezy
intelligent, carefully skim out all the moth
thing altogether filthy, unaware that its ex-
istence Is the surest evidence they could
have that the vinegar is good and pure and
wholesome. Such vinegar will not lose its
strength. will not distress you or eat out the
Lining Of your stomach like that which Is
made of chemicals.
But let me speak one word of caution; do
not put your vinegar in jugs or narrow
mouthed Jars, for the mother will grow to fit
the mouth of the vessel, and will thus choke
up a narrow-necked jar as completely as
though wedged by cOrk.-Tor0nto Globe.
FEBRUARY FLORAL HINTS.
At this season everything begins to think
of spring, and the plants In your window
will start into new and vigorous growth If
given half chance. Stir the soil in the pots.
Give them all the sunshine possible and as
much fresh air as can safely be admitted.
Shower them daily. and see that no insects
are allowed to collect and work on the new
shoots. Give watering with liquid manure
once week at least-twice Is better-to all
that are making new wood, and re-p0t those
needing more room for their roots. 1t Is
quite important that this attention should be
given now. as a shift later ON will interfere
with the gIowth Of the plant for time, and
everything calculated to check its steady de-
velopment should be avoided. Do what is
necessary before the plant gets much of
start.
Bring up your fuchsias from the cellar and
re-pot them, cutting the old branches back
at least half. If that was not done when you
put them away in the fall Give them plenty
of water. a good light, and rich, we'll
drained soil. They will soon break freely
all over the old wood, and early In March
will be coveled with new shoots and healthy
foliage. Those who persist in keeping their
fnchsias in the living room all winter know
very little of what this plant is capable of
doing If given a complete rest for three or
four months. After such rest 1t will make
an astonishing growth in a short time and
be loaded down with flowers good share of
the summer and fall; but If kept in the light
and heat all winter 1t will grow tall and
spindling, and be weak and give but few
blossoms.-Eben Rexford lib Ladies Home
Journal.
MAKING SLEEVES.
The Domestic Monthly says since sleeves
have become an important feature Of dress
in both the style and fit, home sewers. are
alive to the appearance OF this part OF an old
or new bodice.
bust measure, and if too short should be
heightened at the top and bottom. measuring
from the elbow each way, so as to keep the
elbow in the correct position. Never line o
sleeve with soft cambric-it toe easily pulls
out of shape-but use French cambria, SIZE
STA. silk, or whatever the bodice is lined
with.
An extremely tight fit is out Of style for
the time being, but the set of the sleeve is
lust as exact. Always hold the sleeve
toward YOU when basting 1t in the arm-siZe.
Overcast the edges separately, clipping them
here and there to prevent any drawing, put
they need not be ironed fiat unless Of thick
material.
Full sleeves gathered at the top require one
thickness OF Sheet waddng, basted at the
TOP from side to side, and about three inches
deep to make the gathers set up well put
the wadding between the lining and ma.erial.
" hen the back seam is left open at the wrist
IL admits Of a smaller lower edge than conld
otherwise be had. This opening is abottt
one inch and half deep.