The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1890-09-21
POINTS ON SHOPPING.
Some New Features in Fall Styles-Inter-
csting to Ladies.


csting to Ladies.
The sudden change IN the weather has
caused quite a demand for autumn wraps.
one of the most attractive Of these, COM
Portable and useful as well as picturesque,
is the long. closc-htting coat. 1t is made of
dark brown Bcngeline or lady's cloth,
turned back TO form stole ends and a plcat-
cd shoulder cape, terminating with Hat
collar. deliberately braided with pale maize
cord. lraccrics to correspond outline the
plcatings and front edges as well as the
! pointed cuffs. The sleeves are finely gauged
! to be pulled above the elbow and close fit
| ting at the wrist. The lining is of maize
surah This very pleasing wrap comes
| from London.
Another new autumn coat Is the Henri
| H.. the corsagc tightly fitted and braided or
embroidered, forming point in front and
back. Around the hips hang series of
ribbon. close together and turned up i'm
| loops, over which hang small dangling
bells The sleeves are usually plain 10 give
/ the effect of a sleeveless Jacket. II may be
| in any shade, brown. gray, fawn, or dark
colors, and is very youthful in lis style.
The demi-scas0u modes are usually a
repetition ot those of the previous season.
/ with "A little change as 90 detail. \ gown
of wool trimmed With guipure bears upon
| 10 the sign of summer still. however deep lis
celOring But if some of the new passa-
lmcnterieS. softly silkcn. and mixed with
chenille, take the place of the embroidery,
straightWay one has am autumn toilet at
comparatively little expense, for it is ever
the mantua makers. not the shOp-koeper's
bah that make gown worth kings ran
som. These trimmings take the form OF
~ ide heading OF network for the skirt, with
deep rich fringe knOtted I'm the net. The
heading may Doe straight across the top or
fashioned in pointed srallOps, the top Of
which reach nearly half way up the skirt.
smaller ornaments t0 correspond are ar
ranged for the cOrsage and sleeves.
PRINCES of every description. silk. chenille,
and beads are WOru. especially IN black on
c0lored material, and nothing transforms as
decidedly the shabby morning gown into
au attractive chic costume as the use Oh the
long hrctellcs or stOles that ornament both
sides Of the front of the dress from the
shoulder % the hem. and are applied TO the
/ back in the same manner. These bretelles
are made a. black cor c0lOred velvet in
broad punches passing over the shoulder,
ulcated in "a little at the waist. where the!
are brought nearer together and then fall
/ ing in long squares. each finished with knot
/ ted silk fringe. When tine cOrsage only re-
Quire- trimming the hretelles are fastened
no the waist under butterfly bows or fall IN
/ short loops M ends.
/ Black lace is one of the most convenient.
/ us 10 is 40 present one Of the most tashiOna-
/ bile. trimmings for more dresSy toilets. and
as rule is applied i'm irregular rather than
symmetrical motifs. Lace tichus or squares
NAV ho brought out of their hiding places
/ decorate b0dices. and arranged about the
neck. with one corner falling over the
/ sleeve, which has lace ruches about the
armholes and wrists.
a pretty GOWN is Of pcarl-Tay Indian
cashmere combined with dove gray cl0th
/ wrought with gold and silver. The skirt Is
/ gracefully drapcd round the hips and
mounted at the back i'm fan pleatinss' long
enough % touch the ground. IL IS trimmed
/ i'm the Eihel Tower style. with the embr0id-
cred cloth extending i'm the centre a. "a
deep point. reaching % the knees. The
| ulastrOn is plain and gathered INTO the
neckband i'm corded silk. The sleeves.
| iacings and Breton armhOles are IN the en-
/ brOidered material
The sleeves of the autumn dresses are
/ still large and fun, but not exaggerated. In
/ the new designs, not yet ont OF the work
rooms i'm the Rue de la PaiX, the skirts are
observed to Doe still straight or slightly
draped hut without reeds or steels IN the
L
more ample and still LONG in the back. The
! few dresses with paniers yet made are very
pretty, a. they give the elect of "a long
| dress pulled up over a loose belt around the
! hips. making the pun naturally. which was
PROBABLY the original idea OF the panler. II
| is the most absurd style In the world when
exaegerated. but i'm its simplicity 1t Is very
graceful.
In the large sample books OF new autumn
- D. a.. N.nnf
cOlOrs there are many exquisite shades, but
no strikiugly new ones. All the line olblue
and much aubergine, prune color and ma
penfa shades ami the soft tones OF iaWn,
mastic. beige and brown. but little green
except in the palcst shade for evening wear.
There is one shade which is so vivid That
il. Use Will have 10 be most iudiciOusly CON
,idered. IL is a light tone OF the old sole
rjnO. "A strong rose color with purpllsh
tint In the four inches square bIt Of iine
cloth i'm the sample book II is handsome, but
a costume Of the color would blind All eyes.
Blue is the color par excellence this sea-
son. I'm an lis shades; Sky blue, "hleu lap
Sis electric. turquoise. and tlme-honorcd
nayy-blue are combined with Whlte ana en-
brOidcry
4 SNOWY dress Of blue foulard, with de-
SIGN. Of pale-gold color, IS made with a
guipure of blue tullc embroidered with gold
and finished with rucbe OF tulle at the
throat fastened on the side or back with
large bow OF blue ribbon. The capOte OF
blue tulle embroidered with gold Is TRIM
med with tea roses.
After the gamut of blue comes the mauNe,
"le lard DIES blondes and It's derivatives,
violet and Parma violet, heliOtrOpe, ana
Persian lilac, and after them yellow In a
multitude Of shades, combining with the
preceding cOlOrs exceedingly well.
Int frx0 fspre il a urDufgr demand Tor
hats than bOnnets. especially for youthful
faces. though II il said a lady is never 80
much a lady, 50 gcntecl, ana distlngue as IN
"A bonnet The brlms Of hats increase IN
size. and the real test Of style is in the way
Inc brims are bent and pinched 10 render
them becoming and original. a milliner
with artistic inspiration Will make hity
different shapes and styles out Of single
br0ad-brimmcd lOw-cfOwned hat IN The con-
yolutiOns she gives the brim' the arrange
ment of the trimming, and the combination
of the cOlOrs.' a.,
me Paris sailor hat is entirely unlike the
English sailor hat, as the brim Is slightly
furued up with a narrow cord OF black vel
vet underneath. The crown is plnched Ike
an Anime hat, and is covered with gauze
and wings.
Another hat has Jayanese effect, the
brim being bent in curious manner ana
trimmed with "A band OF golu anu Nni'V 'ni-
broidery and feathers. .,... :.
The Norwegian belt IL great hoNelty III
London. II is composed Of pieces OF ieatner
mounted with metal and hung with trinkets
of all kinds, including knives and scissors.
Other pretty belts are Of braided cord win
leather bag al the side.
Woman. Her diseases and 1hclr treat
ment, ~ pages, illustrated; price, 9Oc. sent
upon receipt of Toe, cost Of mailing exc;