Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-08-03
FOOD FOR THE BRAIN.
Preparation of Fish in Dishes That
Delight the Epicures.
MORE USED INLAND EVERY YEAR.
Some of Isaak Walton's Recipes and Enter
tanning Observations.
ELLIcE sERENAs COOKING LETTER
fwR1rrEN roB THR DIsPATcH.I

Fish always have been and always will be
of necessity very important element in
the worlds food supply. Economists say
that the quantity of fish used by inland peo-
pie is increasing in an unprecedented ratio.
But, as the shepherd in that delightful
English classic, "The Noctes Ambro sian@'
OF Christopher North says, "Were every
eatable land animal extinct, the human
race could dine and soup out of the ocean
till a. eternity"
While at this day it is the one essential
article of food of those rude people who live
by the shores of the Northern oceans and
along the larger streams, there are unmis-
taxable evidences that it was the chief food
likewise of the progenitors of our English
ancestors-known variously as Danes, Jut-
lander-Saxons, or Briton s-"lords OF the
Itles," or pirates-which hever is most conve-
nient to call them. The bones and shell OF
fishes are found among the kitchen remains
of the lake dwellers and in the mounds of
the Norsemen-people who have left no
other trace. The saying-"a nice kettle of
fsh"-which is freq uently used by illiterate
nglish-speaking people, and used because
it is part Of our vernacular language. is
traceable to the ancient Saxons. The say
ing, as such pro verbal ones usually are, can
be used as figure of speech in many effective
ways, and with variable shades of mean
ing.
THE ANGLERS DELIGHT.
It is not surprising that some persons be-
come enthusiastic over the art of angling;
especially is this SO when they can have
their "catch" cooked just after it has been
brought from the water. 1t is no wonder
that such books as THE Complete Angler"
by Izaak Walton, and the "Noctes," by
Prof. Wilson, to which We have just al
luded, should retain such hold on the
better nature of the reading public as they
do. They are redolent of the flavor of the
woods ana stream, of the heather and of the
sunrise. "Old Izaak," as he is lovingly
called by his disciples, traced angling back
to the books of Job and Amos, in both of
which fshhooks are mentioned, and when
he gave direction for preparing any kind of
fish he usually finished the recipe with a
benediction. He contemplates with the sat
isfaction of a churchmau that fish was the
chief diet of the Jewish Commonwealth,
and that of the Twelve Apostles at least four
were fishermen, and that these four had
always the priority of mention in the Cos
pels.
Fresh fish are universally esteemed
wholesome food, and they are recommended
by scientific people who aver that very nu-
tritive and llfe-sustaining elements enter
into and form constituent parts of them;
that these phosphate elements, as they are
chemically called, are essential to the nerv-
Gus system and brain; and that thus it is
healthful diet and one nourishing to that
organ. But it would be quite a mistake to
suppose that fish however abundantly used
could supply the place Of brains. Never
theless it would seem that this fallacy took
possession of a certain Bostonian, who had
heard that Prof. Agassiz, of Cambridge,
who knew so much about fishes, advocated
the use of them as food with the object in
dicated. If the report is correct this seeker
after-wisdom asked the professor how much
fish an ordinary person ought to eat to de-
velop his intellectually, and the gruff old
Swiss, looking over his glasses, replied
"about q whale"
HOW TO BUY FISH.
The fish subject is such an exhaustless
one that 1 shall attempt to give only the
most important points in selecting them and
the best methods of cooking them. In buy
ing fish observe that the scales are shining,
the fins stiff, the odor about them untainted,
the gills red, the eyes full and bright and
the flesh firm and white. Fish are con-
sidered in prime condition just before the
spawning period, and such fish as shad,
mackerel and smelt should rjghtfully be
used only when filled with roe. Directly
after the spawning season is over they are
regarded as unwholesome and really in
furious. When they are taken from the
water they should be cleaned as soon as pos
.;Ila he eoalao aoail " raD,ovad if
fish be plunged for an instant In hot water.
They should be we'll drawn and sparingly
sponged with cold water, unless their
habitat, or natural place of abode, has been
at the bottom of lakes and rivers, in which
case the muddy taste is overcome by soak
ing them for an hour or two in cold salt
water. Old Isaac has observed shat lying
long in water and washing the blood out Of
any fish, after they are drawn, abates much
OF their sweetness"
Fish may be either broiled, boiled, baked
or fried. They shold cook slowly, and they
are done when the flesh separates readily
from the bone. The least pinkish tint in
the fakes is an indication that they are un-
done.
TO BRoIL FISH.
Slit the fish open on the back or in the front.
Clean it and place on creased grid-iron over
hot fire.
Turn frequently until done.
Put on hot platter, spread with butter. and
season with salt and pepper.
TO BOIL FISH.
In boiling fish do not cut of the head or
tail, but remove the fins with a sharp knife or
clip with scissors: wrap the whole fish in cloth
wrung out of boiling water and well dredged
with -four.
Tie with tape, cover with salted water neither
too hot nor too cold, If the fish is thin skinned
Hot water breaks the skin and cold water ex.
tracts the juices. Thick-skinned fish may be
plunged into boiling water and slowly SIM
mered. In no instance should the water boil
rapidly.
Allow ten minutes to the pound.
Lemon juice or vinegar added to the water
improves the flavor of the fish and renders the
flesh white and firm.
TO BAKE FISH.
Clean the fish and wipe the inside dry. Fill
with stufhng. sew up the edges, place on meat
rack in dripping pan, with a small quantity of
hot water.
Melt one tablespoonful of butter, pour over
the top, then sprinkle lightly with salt and
pepper and lay over 1t few thin strips of salt
pork.
Bake In hot oven, and haste frequently,
Serve with the gravy from the pan poured
over 1t, and some pungent sauce.
In baking fish the head and tail should not be
removed.
A large fish should bake from an hour to an
hour and quarter.
TO FRY FISH.
Fish may be fried in several ways; by season-
ing with salt and pepper. by dredging with
-four and plunging into hot lard; by dipping in
egg batter aud rolling In cracker meal or bread
crumbs or by covering with cornmeal and fry
in hnt driDninOs with slica two ~ ,1t