davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1890-06-15
WOMAN and HER BODICE
The DOeOIIete Waist has Almost Always
Been In Fashion.
MOTHER EYES FIG-LBAF COSTUME
And the Waist of the Belle In the
Year 1890.

VvomaA's Love OF Personal Adornment
Never Foreotten-EArIy EnGiish Bodies
-ouser Styles OF Hundreds or YeArs Ago
Tho Now Famous Empire Gown-The
Queer ThinEs orOur GrAndnothers' Days
In the evolution OF the bodice may be traced
the history OF nations, the characteristics OF
peoples the progress OF civilization, the rise
and fall OF dynasties. empires and Kingdoms.
the chronicles OF kings and queens long buried
in the dust OF oblivion. A womRn's bodice.
slender and shapely. and subtly pregnant with
the womans personality, It's origin a handful
OF futtering leaves. its apotheosis revelation
Of the greatest inventions and appliances OF
modern science and art as expressed IN It's
textures. fashionlnG, and adornment; It's DE-
piRner. author. and flnisher the woman her-
self; it's purpose to hide yet display to indi-
cato yet conceal, to outline yet veil tho OK
Quisite modelling. gracious curves. and beau-
ttful contour OF the woman's waist and shoul-
ders and bosom 1t was characteristic OF
Creator OF masculine attributes in His
inscrutable wisdom to create woman
without any wardrobe. Had a feminine deity
In her infinite sagacity formulated the woman
element she would have brought forth first
and hung upon everything in the Garden OF
Eden rich gowns and mantles. every shrub
would have blossomed In bonnets. upon the
max sprays in lieu OF flowers there would have
been dainty lingerie with lace and frllls. and
when all was finished woman would
have been evolved to enjoy them. Just as
every known food OF flesh and fish and vege-
table life was made ready for man previous to
his creation. But with what ready inventive
ness and cunning did the woman straRhtway
cot about fashionnG for herself garments OF
such material as she could procure, and with |
leaves for a medium. a slender thorn or
pointed stem for an instrument she wrought |
the chrysais Of the corssge, wonderful sym |
The sun., 1890-06-15

hair" and were adorned with lace and fine
needlework in gold and silver. The partelet or
habit shirt accom- panied the ruff and partially
concealed the bosom which was at this time
more exposed than ever before. However, the
abominatlon OF wearing short sleeyes, which
tho fair danes Of England. was not counte-
nanced. Arms naked from the elbows down
Rusting Queen Elizabeth Is represented
herself with a richly laced run standing out
from her face for con nsiderable way and rest
ing on her bust. From tho back OF the gown
two wings Of fine lawn. ,bordered with Jewels
and stiifened with wire In semiciroular shape,
ing down toward the shoulder In the general
outline Of heart. Full sleeves gather into a
drapes the bust exposed by the low bodice, and
the long, straight stomaoher. heavily em-
broidered and mbossed with jewels, gives an
exaggerated idea Of the length and slender
ness OF the waist, The dress OF Anne Of Dem
The sun., 1890-06-15
MARY II. IN 1892.

In knots for convenience. These IN turn were
discarded while the neck was covered with g
conveying the Impression OF perpetual cpl
demic OF sore throat
Tho chief peculiarly OF the bodice during
the reign OF Edward / II. was In the loose flow
ing outer sleeve. which was pinned oyer tight
undersleevo. and could be removed easily at
joust or tournament as love token or pledge
In the same fashion as a glove or scarf Tho
PlRntngenet bodice Itself was fitted closely to
tho waist and moderately low about the neck.
with few seams. giving a round. short-waisted
appearance OF plumpness to It's wearer Fash
The sun., 1890-06-15
THIS ASSURES PURE FOOD.

For raising bread biscuit other food only the very best
and purest baking powder should beempod The of the
ordinary cream of tartar and sod of baking powder
tanning ime aum phosphaes carries deeterious nged
ents into the food.
The absolute purity of the Royal Baking Powder makes re-
emneny the most useful and
1t ime alum phosphate other adutean leaves
no alkaline or acid the food and
light bread biscuit and cake that perfectly digest
ible and wholesome whether hot cod fresh stale
The U. s. Government Chemist says "The Royal Baking
Powder undoubtedly the pures and most reliable baking
powder offered to the public 1t is absolutely pure"
The sun., 1890-06-15

at the back ALMOST to the waist Tho
tury lady in evening dress, with her
low. short walsted bodice and crlnollne. seems
quite as unusual and grotesque az MANY OF
OF picturesque and artistic designs in dress
from even remote and lf-forgolten periods.
follows. is written the beautiful finale OF tho
history Of the bodice. Verify the world does not
stand still and the theory of evolution seems
plausible and philosophical
1T requires loss lahorious stretch OF tho i'm
aRlnation to fancy somo men originating ac-
cordinG TO tho Darwlnian theory than to believe
butterfly bodice fitting Its wsarer as closely
as cRlyN encircIcs a flower. could emanatO
of leaves 1900
The sun., 1890-06-15

an arrow into t6s air and however far II soar
into the regions Of lmitess space. where hu-
man eye may not fathom it is sure to return
again. however Hong II remain invisible. SO
with mode once evovoi. In the march of
the centuries 1t returns t. rls again and again.
modified. leThAps, orlntensihed. but primarily
Jano, third In succession OF King Henry = wivos,
Is renrescnted In mos. Of her pictures In an eX.
tremely long wasted gown with pointed
somarher and close sleeves with a surtout
Of purple velvet, with wide overhan ging sleeves,
OF to-day. Just why Jane Seymour should he
called "amiabe and unfortunate for alienat-
ing King ienry's affections from his mistress,
Anne Bo'eYn. making tho preparations for hei
own wedding wh!le Mistress Anne was suffer-
inG the dread anI terror of har execution. and
hours after hnncs slender throat had been
The sun., 1890-06-15

thing after the design shown in the cut. At
least no one can say with authority that the
original womans costume was entirely unlike
the illustration. How the dark glossy leaves
must have heightened the delicacy of the fair
white flesh and enhanced the beauty 1t was de-
signed to conceal. One wonders II she per-
suaded Adam to pin It up right on the shoulders
and tell hor II II fitted in the back. OF course, the
witching mother OF all women was. Just at
the time she draped that little costume. suf-
forinR rather serious anxiety. but that didn't
prevent her thinking OF her garments any more
than sorrow or trouble now causes a woman to
neglect her toilet Even when death itself rohs
her OF loved ones. she considers well the depth
Of the hem on her mourning veil and the fit OF
her som bre gown. And II you ever noticed 1t.
the first interest a woman manifests In things
terrestrial after the visitation OF great calami-
tics and afflictions is in the arrangement OF her
wardrobe She can plan and shop and sew whom
ehe cannot read or write or converse.
But later on the inventiveness OF woman
conceived the idea Of employing only the fibre
Of foliage in her garments. and drawing this
fibre out In threads upon distatf. she wove 1t
into cloth for her adorning With hammered
The sun., 1890-06-15

three or four spots occur in a veil,
and :, OF these only one or two may
on and put on at will, Just whore they will add
q little piquapt touch to the beauty OF the
wearer by emphasizing the fairness OF her skin
In contrast, conoealinR some disnPuring apeck
or inlnitesimal pimple, or attracting attention
from their very oddly A girl with a single
epot In her veil nesting against chin or check
ts pretty sure TO be singled out as the observed
Of all observers to her heart'g content
The sun., 1890-06-15
Colored Annie Wilson Turning White.

From the omaha World. Herald.
She was as black as pure African blood can
make ono, her hair having the kinks OF a negro
OF 100 per cent. assay. Tho features and every
thing We're those OF o full blooded negro. but
the hand she extended to greet her visitors
was whittier than that OF either OF the two Tho
fingers and all to point about three inches
up the wrist partook OF the clear color Of tho
Caucasian, tho two shades coming together
Abruptly IN violent contrast. Both hands were
alike In this respect. and her feet were also q
clear white, Above her mouth. In a mi-circlo
GSSSrps Gse th al ths P SPACE between Tie ip ana
IN lust about tho same position as that taken
he 1 2t SSd as6 whS
is, your body subjected to this change.
also Z" the woman Was asked.
Yes; 1t was. Perhaps a quarter OF the sur
Sho stopped telling q, the chang" " to give
Missouri" said Annie. Sand have lived in
never thought much OF me, and attracted
little attention. excepting from STRANGERS
:. How How long has this change boon workiaGf,
@ i9lEs ao1iloo{ i Grst, ana 7 tiSufht bee p
sDeef 6nd s6 in ss
. ny il [6e M isst year ths change has been .poto
Has tho change In your complexion been
attepded by any pain or Illness"
-, Not IN tho least. Ihave never been s!cS in
suffered has been from people looking ~ ne.
W whenever go out to a lartY con'eAi tho
Mnite on my face by using rlH'hin- and llnt
iolks staring at me"
Annie says she is a widow aud has four clIl.
but tho others are simply OF the yellow con.
plexion. Her husband was n dark man. hsE
parents we're both aS black as black could hA
The sun., 1890-06-15

reproductions.
But the merry monarch and his merry friends
carried their merriment little too far and O
new sobriety in dress tells In peculiar language
Of the horrors OF the plague. the great fire In
a nation. With the accession OF William Ill
came splendor and solemnity Of attire Very
trigid and stately were the ladies OF Queen
Queen, Stiff stays. tightly laced. Jewelled
stomachers. and long V-shaped bodices were
trast to the beautiful simplicity OF the fair
danes OF King Charles's court. One could
never imagine Nell Gwynne existing in such
straight lacing.
French fashions influence the dress OF English
women during the reign OF Queen Anne. and
The sun., 1890-06-15

vationa. After long
waists had heon
worn for years short
ones appeared. tho
lighter material re-
placed sumptuous
maRnifcence n n d
stateliness. and cloth
was oven dampened
to make it fit moro
closely. These be-
ginning-of the con-
tury gowns. includ.
ing the Empire and
Josephine j dresses.
are familiar. lotonly
from the old por-
traits. but from their
late restoration. Tho
y W ISIS chemisette
b ody was first
launched into fash
ion nj this period.
BodiceS W ere OK
tremely snort. and
nnanaI In HrnnH md
The sun., 1890-06-15

toward the waist in
som Q W b at crude
likeness to the pres
ent corsage. has the
loose overhanRinR
sleeve suspended By
lewelled clasps at
the shoulder. and. q
great novelty for tho
times. jewelled but
tons down the front.
The decollete bodice
for state occasions
seemed well nigh as
imperative In tn o
fourteenth century
as amid the broad
enliRhtenmento OF tho
twentieth. Longer
and more volumin-
L. -
The sun., 1890-06-15
T4RIOUs M4NIFESTATIOys.

More Ahout the EnGlIah Girl Cricket Play
erS-rhe Servant GIrI Ia England.
The English girl crcketers are creating
great amount OF discussion as well as enthusi-
asm by their unique proceedings. and divers
opinions prevail as to the advisability OF
women engaging in so dangerous and spirited
sport The London Lancet advances the
The sun., 1890-06-15

cleft by the heads
man, Is known only
to the historian who
delights In condemn
Ing the fault of the
ono and condoning
the same In the
other. This was tho
era OF farthinGales
which en- phasiZed
the grOteSlua slen-
dcrness ofwaists. and
Spanish fashions In
fuenced tho prevail
Ing styles 10 u de-
gree. Whom Annie
B0lryn's daughter
came TO the throne
fro m which h er
mother had been SO
uncerem on ously
eiectsd. fashion once
The sun., 1890-06-15

ion assumed most important place In the
annals of England during the reign Of Richard
BY bis wife. Anne Of Bohemia from Bohemia
Italy, Poland, and Spain. From Bohemia came
coat, made quite tight to the hips. buttoned
straight down the front instead Of fasten.
ing at the back beneath the cape. and
bordered with fur. Tho round. modest neck
was lowered and cut square across the bosom.
and the stomacher Of jewels made its first ap-
pearance, The gown was blazoned with the
arms Of the family. and curious NOTICES were
wrought in the borders, as the swell girl OF
to-day broiders them about her lingerie. The
tight sleeve vanished. and loose ones. which
tened DEVILS receptaces." because stolen
goods, were sometimes concealed in them, In
hSis thS reign o. tnS tWo @ suGeeedPS Henrys ladies'
assumed the shape Of the Spencer habit, and
the girdle. instead OF Slipping oyer the hips. en-
circed the waist tightly and gave q more
graceful appearance to the figure.
Tho illustration taken from an old cut Of
Johanna Of Navarro. 1880, represents CO.'S
tume Of heavy white material sloping in
The sun., 1890-06-15
PRIZES FOR HIGH JUMPING.
The Riding Schools Are beginning TO Run
on Their summer RnaIa.

The Riding Schools Are Beginning TO Run
on Their summer RnaIa.
The riding at the various city schools has
| fallen off largely In the last few days In conse-
Quence OF the departure of many regular
patrons for their usual summering places.
What is done Is on what is called the summer
schedule. before 10 in the morning and after
In the afternoon. There have been a good
many evening parties recently to take advan-
tage Of the fine weather.
The proprietors Of all the academies except
the Fifth Avenue and the West End, arc
making preparations for their summer estab.
lishments. and this week the exodus will begin
Ii. s. Dyer OF the Belmont Academy. 124th
street and st. Nicholas avenue will take a
dozen horses to Lake Hopatcong and as many
moro to Sharon Springs. The Belmont Acad-
emy will remain open all the summer as
usual. however. Twenty-Five Of DIr. Dyer,s
patrons took moonlight ride to West Chester
recently. The ride was perfect In everything
but the moonlight. Six separate showers kept
the party at West Chester all night. but every
body voted the ride royal success.
The Fifth Avenue and West End academies
will devote ali their time to instruction for be-
ginners and road lessons Herr Antony OF the
Fifth Avenue is putting some o. his horses
through special course OF training.
Charles W. Dickel. proprietor of Dickel's
nCuutLlJ Ol heSL rHlS Etfeet, VIII take
string to Rchleld Springs as usual and also
to Southampton. The Southampton establish
ment will be under the personal supervision of
MIR Miller. the head riding master of the home
school.
Durlands Academy will have branches at
Fenwick Hall. Sayhrook poInt, Conn, and Com
gress Hall. Saratoga Springs. The season at
until within the last few days has there been
any b. breTSGepti6le Ghn falling of in the ridng
envy Will send thirty tlyN horses RvaFROD 4
this bnGai month AT THREE win go win
charge Of Messrs. Sigmund and Albert Cohn.
The Messrs. Cohn have decided to offer q
prize Of handsome silver CUP as the emblem
which will be held in the new Madison Square
made on IN o2ndtoD that tho NaoDa DYf HoTss
Show Association offer suitable prize for
hsS e 6e snd tRe
cup will be ordered from Tiffany at once.
If T hnrsss BE- Wfn 'D"I',s figure.
the winner, and the Nlessrs., Cohn, will give
amateur hirh jumping number OF gentle
s DSn horsea !fM TEe OF edhS 5hS
lions Of this contest will be that each horse
Almost every riding school and club in tho
city and every hunting club has one or more
high jumpers. and the list OF entries promises
to be very large.
The praos 0ffered by the National AssocIa-
tion vii be open to all and many OF the horses
ridden by their owners for the amateur cham.
ponship will likely appear under professional
guidance in the contest for these prizes
The establishment OF these prizes will no
ioubt lend decided impetus to the snort Of
ltgh jumping. At the boulevard Academy
here is special class during the winter. tho
members OF which are taught how to jump and
low 10 manage and handle jumping horse
But there the instruction stops.
The sun., 1890-06-15

from those worn in
France at the same
period. being cut
square in front and
very low. finished
with q fall Of lace
about the bust and
fashioned Of bril-
liant brocade. The
shape and form of
the bodice is no
longer distinguished d
b y. I h at modesty
which characterized
1t in tho sixteenth
century. In u work
written Ia 1857 we
road: " Gowns still
continue short. very
low, about the bosom
and shoulders. and
The sun., 1890-06-15

mark. wife OF James l.. illustrates another
mode peculiar to the period.
The De Medicis splendor and stateliness OF
costume influences, too. the dress Of the time;
needework and Jewels. peculiar t TO the French
court finds few admirers among the. English
danes. A studied negligence. q charming
deshabille. characterize the court costume
during the reign Of Charles l. and his pretty
French Queen. Henrietta Maria. The sensu-
stiff formality Of English spendor. Tho gowns
resemble drapery without definite shape, are
fashioned OF dlaphanous materials. cut e1-
tremely decollet6. particularly In the front,
where they fold back nearly to the bottom OF the
valet With the advent OF Vandyk during this
folding softly away from the throat, took the
The sun., 1890-06-15

tested until during the reign Of Henry l., whom
laced bodices were occasionally seen. and tight
sleeves with pondA cuffs distinguished the
dress OF the period. Those cuffs hared from
cloee wrist until they covered the finger tins
The sun., 1890-06-15

80 scant as to be scarcely modest. Waists are
plnched In so as TO be very long and slim,
bodices arc laced up in front. and sleeves are
tlGNt 70 the elbow. terminating in full rufilcs."
me long reign OF George Ill was celebrated
In the annals Of fashion for its DecuIar inno-
The sun., 1890-06-15

more held high carnival Rufis were made OF
lawn 40 fne that as an old writer has said.
" thu thtakaat thread u not % big ~ the least
The sun., 1890-06-15

HENhIEIAA MANIA.
place OF the stiff rufIs sleeves were slit and
puffs OF rich satin let In frills OF lace fell over
the hand. and bodices were slashed and orna-
mented with quaint lacings. Tho Purltanical
rigidity Of the Commonwealth replaced for
with tho coronation Of the "Merrie Monarch"
fresh impetus was given to the restoration
of French NODES OF which Sir Joshua Rey-
The sun., 1890-06-15

The dvisible bodice spray Is quite the latest
extravaganza. and wonderful and exquisite In
Its construction. Tho foundation Is a spray
OF flashing diamond leaves. which are per-
feet and complete in themselves. and quito
magnificent enough to be worn alone II ono
desires. But over the spray hover Radhies.
butterflies. or swallows In diamonds and
emerftids eaeT so epnninGly fashioned that they
wings which quiver and scintillate with every
noyemrnt OF the wearer. Diamond orchids on
their supple. slender stems. swayinR with the
slightest motion. seemed as wonderful as the
magic beauties OF Arabian Nights dreaming.
diamond, frosted pinions quito excels anything
Set invented outside fairy tale.
The trousseau OF the Archduchess Marie
Valerie OF Austria Is now on exhibition. and
occupies no less than four so.called saloons"
In the imperial palace. while Nth is crowded
with wedding gifts. over which sentinels stand
constantly on guard. Three magnificent dIa-
dems. with brooches In the same design Won
deful cleaning pearl chains and cororets and
bracelets, lengths OF rara aud magnificent lace
spin. and services OF gold and silver plate with
servers and vases. together with all manner OF
and 6eaped at t%efs the feet Of % this fair otS youtSFS
weary weary q them all, and ma less ,ioy, In Their
plated spoon holder and pickle caster and but
ter knife that half a township club together to
buy for her wedding gift. and tho simple gown
and lingerie that her own deft fingers prepared
for her adorninR.
The smart girl is distinguished by her Rus
Sian veil as n nun is known by her beads.
There is nothing unusual about the not Of this
oddity in Rauze. though it Is of a rather pecu-
liar weave. differing from the bobbin laces, In
that Its fine meshss are knotted in peculiar
way but the swaRRer thing about II Is It's spots,
which. unlike the isoDRrd's, can bs changed
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1890-12-28

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The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1890-12-28
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