The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1890-01-04

Boas are no longer the great desidera-
tum. Now it is collars, and they are
peculiarly snug and trim for furs, and
are of Russian hare and all the medium
short haired furs. The three collars shown
are known by the names of Russian,
Paris and Berlin styles. That which is
alike on both points is the Paris, that
which comes very close to the throat the
Berlin, and the one which is quite open
at the throat the Russian. These can be
sewn upon jackets, wraps or Newman
kets, or they can be detached, and thus
are available for almost any occasion,
even to wearing with the long silk
wraps lined with squirrel furs. The
muffs now worn by those ladies who
like to have something little different
from "the common herd" look some
what like a spool of cotton in shape.
They are entirely without ornamental
ton, and the ends, instead of being
faced with fluted satin, are covered with
sealskin or beaver, or whatever fur the
rest is made of, and the very small
places where the hands go in are lined
also with fur. This makes them very
heavy, but very comfortable.
The different collars are very conven-
lent and dressy, and add just that degree
of comfort that is considered necessary
to an outdoor winter garment. A plain
Newmarket is made into a handsome
garment by the addition of one.
had a peep at some lovely new spring
goods. There are new combinations in
silk mohair brilliantine which render
that usually harsh material as soft and
pliable as camel's hair, while it is as lus-
trous as silk. This comes in several
grades and is very beautiful. 1t is to be
largely employed in making travelling
dresses, and for other uses which de-
mand the best wearing qualities.
There are several new designs and
styles in the always beautiful silk warp
Henrietta goods, some of them so fine
and perfect that language fails to prop
erly depict them. They are dead fine,
strong and with an exquisite surface
bloom. There is among the spring de-
signs new sheer material, semi-trans-
parent, with stripes which are simply in
the silk weave, and not overlaid, and
these stripes have open work which re-
sembles hemstitching, making the whole
so light and graceful that the name of
zephyrette is quite appropriate. There
are new effects in brocade patterns. One
has loose, struggling pattern of the
finest grasses, and these are SO perfect
that they seem to lie carelessly upon the
surface of the material, and all this is
cunningly woven in black, the weaving
giving the effect of lights and shades.
A pretty new style in coats for young
ladies is rough and ready made Of
bison cloth, worn with Tam O'Shanter
cap of the same color. This is very
jaunty and becoming to the jolly girl.
Her reserved and prim English-you-
know sister looks equally pretty in a
drab elastic tricot, with long, slim
Newmarket and half dozen little capes
over the shoulders, the whole sur
mounted by a brown felt English walk.
ing hat.
A dressmaker told me recently that
I ought to write it down as law that a
dark complexioned woman ought never
to allow herself to be persuaded to buy
green or purple gown any more than
she should take poison, or smoke a pipe,
or any other such thing, for no matter
what trimming she put on them, the
whole run of greens and puppies would
make her look sallow and old. Only
fair women ought to wear them
o. II,