The Russellville Democrat., 1890-02-13
DRESS FOR STOUT WOMEN.
Dress Fabrics and Styles Suitable for Ladies
 of Plump Figure.


 Dress Fabrics and Styles Suitable for Ladies
 of Plump Figure.
 The fashions of the season--the tailor gown for the street and princesse dresses for the house-are particularly becom- ing to women of full plump figure, be- cause these gowns may be cutin straight almost unbroken lines that add to the apparent height. or they may be draped slightly, to counteract any too great robustness. The tailor bodice for a round full figure should be of the sim plest shape, trimmed either with length wise braiding from shoulder to waist pline, or else with a pointed vest of vel vet, or of cloth of contrasting color. Its shape should be a coat-basque, with sides rather longer than those most used at present extending we'll over the hips, in order to take away the short, square effect, and well boned to the end of every seam. In order to give the necessary spring over the hips there should be double side forms in the back, and the fronts should each have dart taken in them quite far back under the arms. The sleeves should be of easy- fitting coat shape, following the out lines of the arm in a comfortabl fashion set high on the shoulders, and quite long at the wrists. The standing collar should be high and broad, even though the neck is short; it should be cut bias, with the lower edge much curved, and this edge set on below tho neck of the waist, to give the necessary depth; the edges of the front are sloped narrower at the top, and should fit high and close about the throat. This wide collar gives the appearance of longer neck, and requires merely some flat folds of Esse or an edge of white ribbon at the top to make it complete.
 The foundation skirt for the dresses ot stout women is closely gored on the sides, while the front breadth is full and nearly straight, and is usually made two or three inches longer than the back breadths. The English skirt, with slight drapery on the sides, is well adapted to full figures, as the drapery can be varied, placing it below any un- becoming roundness, while tho back has straight full breadths that prevent toe great fatness, and also give the appear ance of height
 The princesse gown, with the un- broken lines of it's continuous breadths, Is the prettiest of all house dresses for large women, but in many. cases it is necessary to slope the fronts away to- ward the sides, and introduce a pointed bodice and petticoat front breadths, in order to make some slight drapery be- low the abdomen. The petticoat front may have deep Spanish flounce, with erect doubled ruffies at it's head, added to breadths slightly full at the top; this gives a long, straight effect, If the figure is only becomingly plump, how ever, the straight line should be pre- served in front of the skirt having it open on fiat panels, or on striped Eiffel points, or on long, gathered tablier of net or of gauge. Modistes advise rather full sleeves with princesse gowns for large women, as the size of the arm is not defined by them, and is thus left to conjecture.
 In selecting dress fabrics woman of ample figure should choose dark shades of any becoming color, or else black, as light shades give the appearance of greater size. For dressy house toilettes the dark silk, or brocade, or velvet princesse gown is preferred, but may be frightened by vest and skirt front of lighter silk or brocade, or of draped China crape or lace. Solid colors and lengthwise stripes will be found more appropriate than any figured stuffs, cross stripes or plaids. The stripes should not be conspicuously wide or in striking contrasts of color. Bordered trimmings can be only employed as pam els down the skirt and in long pointed lines on the bodice. When lace is used, 1t should be fastened down fatly and put on scantily, as in insertions or soft falling frills and lengthwise iabots.
 If the hips are very large, the under skirts should be gathered to yoke deep enough to reach weA down over them; sometimes single yoke is used with buttons on the edge. to which the petit coats are buttoned, and some large women have buttons for petticoats set on the edge of their corsets.
 Long wraps are becoming to short, full figures, especially those that.do not define the figure too closely. and are cut in straight slender breadths. Plain cloth, velvet and fnrs Of short fleece are the materials for sach wraps Shorter mantles and jackets divide the length Of the figure, and give the appearance sf breadth. Iiarper's Kazar