Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-07-12
GLIMPSES OF THE FAR WEST.
A Trip In the Spring Across the Conti-
nent

nent
Sitting DOWN IN wAsHINaToN-THE THRIFT OF
wxsrERN orrIEs-A PERFECT cLIMATK-RIvALRY
OF SEATTLE AND TAooMA-rHE INDIAN PoPu-
LArroN.
Correspondence of THE EVENING STAR
SEATTLE, July s.
~ UT WEST" generally conveys toeastern
i'm people an idea of such states as Min
nssosa, Kansas, Colorado, DC. The
mind scarcely wanders any farther
~ and in some portions of the east
one hears Ohio spoken OF AZ . western
state. California some way, has usually the
dignity of its name accredited it. When man
makes up his mind to visit this varied and
beautiful state we say, "John Smith is going to
California;" but when his wife decides that she
will take trip to Wyoming, why Mrs. Smith Is
going west.
1 shall not attempt to explain this custom
simply wish to say that hereafter there is no
west to me. Everything is east, for am
citizen Of the state Of Washington. residing in
the city Of Seattle, and refuse to believe that
there is any country farther west than this
same state.
We have the testimony Of others that il We
start from here in q westerly direction and
keep going long enough that we will get to
Asia. But have we not been taught from
youth MP that Asia is about as extreme east as
we can reach? So prefer to cling to the ira
ditions of childhood Though they may be- and
refuse to believe that this continent can be
west.
had often heard before coming here of the
"wild west" the ''woolly west" but let me tell
you people in the east that it is just a matter
of u few years before the wildness will be only
in your minds. At present 1 must acknowl-
edge, for fear OF some one else telling you,
that few weeks ago there was bear killed
in Seattle's limits. But leave it to every fair
minded persons judgment il it was not better
to kill the bear than to let it live.
WESTWARD Hol
March was the month in which we set our
faces westward ho!" Having discussed at
length the advantages of the competing roads
we finally decided on the Northern Pacific As
there was NJ change of cars to be made be-
tween st. Paul and Tacoma, and when one has
several guide books, valise. three novels, a
well-filled shawl strap and an umbrella be-
sides trunks to look after. a through train is
quite an item of consideration.
We took the Pullman sleeper at st. Paul one
Friday evening at O'Clock. the train being
two hours late, and were in Seattle the follow
ing Tuesday morning at $50. q hear that the
trains are making faster time now.) 1t was an
interesting ride. Even the hundreds Of miles
OF snow-covered Dakota prairies kept ones
attention for few hours. In fact it was only
when found that would be able to feast my
eyes on this monotony for some forty hours
that l turned with relief to the egotism of
marie Bashkirtseff." Need l say that was
pretty desperate when found solace in that
OF course, there were the Bad Lands of Da-
kota, but to tell the truth we did not see them.
The train was then three hours behind time
and We went through them about p. M. too
late to really define the grotesque outlines of
this wonderful country.
THROUGH THE BAD LANDS
We were enjoying good dinner in the din
ing car when some one called out: 1--WE are
going through the Bad Lands" and immedi-
ately every one who was near enough pressed
his face against window and was rewarded by
seeing his Opposite nelghbors in the car APP
parently sitting out in mid air with their table
and lights, in fact nothing but reflection of
the interior Of the car. And yet feel posi-
tive that there is not person who was on that
train who will not say that they have seen the
Bad Lands. Well. we passed through them
and looked at them, so is it not reasonable to
say that we saw them unless we we're blind.
The eastern part of Montana is like all Da-
kOta and travelling at the time of the year that
we did that whole country was covered with
snow, the streams and rivers being frozen and
covered with a soft. white robe, that we
knew where they were only by the slope of the
banks, with their skirting of frozen leafiess
bushes.
As we neared the western part of this state
the country became rapidly more and more
mountainous. and we were soon in the heart of
the Rockies. winding in and out and climbing
up and down them.
This is a most beautiful country; beautiful
even in its garb of winter. Mountain scenery
to me has always an elevating effect on the
thoughts have often wondered if this is not
due to the instructive feeling that most of us
have that Heaven is above us, and all great ele-
vations seem SO much nearer that blessed
abode that in gazing up to the heights ones
thoughts and feelings are lifted and awed
AT HELENA.
Sunday afternoon we reached Helena, the
capital of Montana. and here we got out to
stretch our WEAKLY limbs during the half hours
stay. 1t was a welcome relief, though we could
see nothing of Helena proper as 1t lies about
mile from the depot among the mountains. 1t
is fourishing, typical western city, hear-a
few bold people daring to claim it as a rival to
Seattle The male population of the city had
turned out to see the eastern train. and mot
ley crowd it was-ail kinds and conditions of
men and of languages. 1t it hard to say which
were the most entertained, they or We.
The prettest and most charming part of our
ride was that which runs in and out along the
shores of Lake Pend d'Oreille in the northern
part of Idaho. The lake is sixty miles in length
and from three to fifteen miles wide. On every
side rise high mountains towering aloft and
casting their shadows on the lake, which is
dotted here and there with wooded islands
while focks of wild ducks skimming and diving
into the clear water make just enough life
about the place to keep ones thoughts from
melancholy.
ALONG THE LAKES SHORES.
1t was Monday morning while we were at
breakfast that we were skirting in and out
along the lakes shores, and finally, darting
across it, lost ourselves among the mount ains
for several hours, until noon time came and
found us at Spokane. We had a wet welcome.
There was persistent, steady drizzle of rain
falling and the depth of the mud was an I'M
known quantity. Here, too. the male popula-
ton of the town came to see US. Just such an
other crowd as met US at Helena only this was
much larger and muddier. Spokane prospers
1t does all in that respect that its best friends
could wish. Like Seattle (and the Phenix) it
has been blessed with severe fires and each
time rises triumphant and more glorious from
its ashes.
the next morning we stopped just long enough
to change cars so we saw nothing of it but
perpendicular hills and umbrellas. 1t is, how
ever, thriving city Of about $4,000 inhabit-
ants, and socially is a charming place.
The Seatt!eites allow that Tacoma has one
advantage over them, and that is a good opera
house. The ground has been broken for one
here, which is to be completed by Christmas,
and no doubt it will be, like many others, the
finest on the coast
The train skirts the shore of Elliott bay for
mile before reaching Seattle, so one has a good
view OF the city coming in. 1t is built on the