The Portland daily press., 1890-10-01
OF TASTE IN DRESSING.
TInts and Shades have Taken the
Place Of ClarIng CoIors.
rCorresuondence of the Press


NEW YORK, Sept. 29.-Sancho Panza
called down blessings on the man that
invented sleep, and he certainly deserved
his blessing, but think that that per-
son-man or woman-who invented the
use of tints instead of primary colors in
dress deserves also a special bless
ing. One is never SO certain of that un-
til he or she gets hold of fashion book
of quarter of a century ago and notes
the glaring awfulness of the colors there
brought together and worn as the high
est styles.
Emerald greens have borders of vio-
let, violet is garnished with yellow,
green and scarlet are spoken of as good
contrasts and blue and orange. Brill
liant purple trimmed with green ruffles
and rosettes is mentioned as being very
elegant. Blue and red, each the natural
complement of the other, are never
mentioned as being used together, but
all the other colors of the rainbow were
jumbled up in the queerest and most
startling manner. Even the pinks and
sky blues were aggressive.
Now you find pale greenish blue
camePs hair gown made princesse style.
in the plainest manner, with here and
there plat or fold which breaks the
severity of straight lines; little passe-
menterie in the same shade and the skirt
left open for glimpse of emerald green
velvet, the sleeves and guimpe also of
velvet, and you have gown that would
be perpetual delight to yourself and
burning envy to your friends. And that
is more than half the satisfaction of a
new gown. 1t is not enough to know
that it is beautiful; you want to feel that
other women envy you the possession of
it, but are too proud to copy it.
Another outgrowth of the present ar
tistic knowledge of colors is gown of
tan colored cashmere with the front of
the skirt opening over few plaits of
pale blue crepe de Japon and bordered
with two rows of narrow dark brown
passementerie. The plain waist is jacket
form over full vest front of the crepe,
and the sleeves are made of the same.
All sleeves are made snug over the fore
arm and pulled on the shoulder.
In darker colors the influence of the
artist is seen just as clearly. Witness a
robe for the street Of dark gray cheyiot
made princesse front, and with the back
gathered on to point. The front of the
waist laps over to the left side. The
sleeves have the upper portion laid in
plaits to the elbow. The collar is roll
ing and made stiff, with wired passe-
menterie, and little V shaped passemen-
terie to match in black Is placed at the
open collar. This truly elegant gown
would few years ago have been called
too plain and dull for street or indeed
any wear, whereas now the popular
taste has been educated up to this quiet
elegance in color and design.
A little more color and variety is in
PRODUCED into the companion costume
The skirt is of wood brown cashmere,
with side panels of bottle green velvet;
these ornamented with three bows of
green ribbon and piquets one shade
lighter. The waist is of the cashmere
with vest of cream colored faille, and
the rest Of the ornamentation is of Irish
point, laid on fiat The back of the
skirt is simply plated in double box
plaits, and all new dresses are held by a
couple of small steels.
O. III.