The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1890-10-16
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EUROPE.

Tram-cars Running Through Cathedrals
antwerp, Its Cathedral and Landscape
Public BuIldinRs-Aix In Chappelle, the
Famous watering Place Standing
Armics-Cologne Cathedral and its High
Towers - Bones OF 1000 Virgins -
Bonn, and European Customs-A Word
for Vermont Parmers-Maycnce-"B Bin
gen on the Rhine"
Especial Correspondence Of the Bdnner.l
NUMBER III.
Utrecht has mall one and half
miles long, and one hundred and fifty feet
wide, with six rows of trees the whole
length about ten feet apart, and lined
with handsome residences: no wonder
the Hollanders have made. it great
resort; for pleasanter place to live in
is not in Holland. The nave of the old
Cathedral fell in, more than four hundred
years ago; the ruins were cleared away,
leaving large open space; as the tower
containing AZ bells, stands by itself
some distance from the church, which
has been made of the remnant, by walling
up the end. The tram cars pass the
church: turn into the open space; and
pass out through the tower, formerly
the Cathedral door; the queerest place l
ever saw tram pass. On the way by
rail from there to The Hague, we could
see the landscape plainly until 9.45 p. m.
light mist Just covered the fields, so
that the whole country looked like silver.
While Belgium and Holland are equally
fiat, one can see to a tar greater distance
in Holland the reason is the greater
n NIB r of large dykes in Belgium, which
break the view.
In all the old European cities the
sidewalks are extremely narrow, often
not over foot wide, so that most of the
people walk in the streets: the driver of
a carriage has much trouble to get
| through narrow streets on account of
this. On the way to Antwerp we passed
through Rotterdam again, the railway
crossing the city on level with the
tops of the houses; in order to have the
great bridge crossing the Mas, at a
sufficient height above the water. We
had a fine view of the river and city as
we crossed this bridge; and of the
immense docks on each side. Further
on, the line crossed an arm of the sea,
on bridge over mile long. Antwerp
is great seaport; somewhat inland
| like Rotterdam; with splendid docks
and warehouses. The Cathedral is very
old and queer, and is two hundred and
ffty-five feet wide, the widest in Europe.
On the wall each side of the high altar
hangs Ruben's masterpieces, the "Eleva-
tiOn of and Descent from the Cross"
grand pictures they are too. OF course
the Cathedral is open to every one during
most of the day, and then these pictures
are carefully covered with heavy green
cloth curtains; winch draw down over
them; so to see them it is necessary to
l 81 lao ln oh ia 70
closed and pay franc admission.
A thrifty set are the people who run
the European CathGdrals; they make
anything they have to exhibit pay its
way. After the Battle of Waterloo these
pictures were taken to Paris and placed
in the Louvre gallery, but were finally
returned to Antwerp. The Louvre
offered 5000 600 for a picture which
hangs behind the altar, but the offer was
refused: the same picture was sold by
Rubens for 5000; he painted it in sixteen
days.
The tower is four hundred and two
feet high and has great peal of ninety
nine bells, some very small. The effect
when they are rung is like a shower of
music from the sky, although the music
would be sweeter if the bells were better
toned: but / heard scarcely bell in
Europe that was to be compared with
ours, most of them sounded like an old
brass kettle, very fiat and CLANCY. 1t is
a terrible climb as far as one can 90,
three hundred and fifty feet, five hundred
and fourteen steps, for it is by way of a
very narrow circular stairway in one
tower; but the grand view is worth the
trouble, and in no other way can the
city and vicinity be seen, as there are no
hills. The whole surrounding country was
spread out like map, while beneath
us were the winding streets of the city,
the curious old buildings, the river Scheldt
with the great docks and all the ship
ping. The bells rang for quite while
as we stood there; giving us achance
TO hear the different effect from that
we heard while OH the street below. The
tower was very curious open work, really
one tower inside another. Coming down
Into the Cathedral, we listened for
some time to the music of the great
organ, as it pealed through the great
building.
Just ontside the main entrance is the
old well with the graceful iron work top,
made by Quentin Matsys, the famous
artist blacksmith, who afterward became
a painter of pictures.
The town hall is queer old building,
interesting to visit, and all about it are
the curious old houses; very high, and
with the upper stories built in pyra-
midal shape; style common to Holland
cities also. The geological garden is
one of the best in the world, and has a
splendid collection of animals, among
them the finest lions | ever saw, pail
of giraffes, and tangle of lovely great
snakes. The city pavements are stone
blocks, similar to those used here, and
the sidewalks in many places are paved
with the same stone; fashion exceed
ingly unpleasant for the feet of them
obliged to walk much on them, though
we found them used in many cities.
We saw the fire department hasteninl
to answer an alarm. First came two
wheeled cart, similar to those used by
painters here: on it few ladders Of
various lengths, none very long; car
and ladders painted green, and drawn by
several men wearing helmets, going at ;
jog trot. Following this came wagon
similar to those used by the insurance
yatrol here, drawn by two horses anC
filed with men in uniform. How they
could put out fire with no other appli
ances | could not see: no hose, ant
the ladders would not reach to the thirt
IHOOr OF JDe DullulnRS, flGeS IOTIundJell
J. are not numerous, as the buildings arr
all of stone or brick. This was the Onl!
time we saw fire apparatus going to
fire, during the whole trip.
. Antwerp is guarded by an enormous
fort built of earth, wonderfully strong
One feature peculiar to the place, is |
square hole in the wall of almost ever!
house, beside the front door, for th'
! scraper: itnever seems to occur to then
to put it at the side of the steps as we do
Brussels is only short distance from
, Antwerp, has a population of half ;
! million, and from the close resemblance
of the habits of the people, is called
Little Paris" The principal street.
are lined with cafes, glfttering at nigh
with lights and mirrors: every pleasan
evening they are full of people, and th'
, sidewalks are nearly covered with small
1 tables, at which are seated men, womeT
and children, drinking beer, wine ol
coffee and eating ices. Approaching