The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1890-01-05

thumb nail and is surrounded with a crest
of diamonds, anyone of which would set a
solitaire ring for a person Of modest
tastes.
One of Mrs. Morton's opera cloaks is
rayed over as a sweet thing. 1t is of white
broadcloth, very long, lined with rose pink,
slashed up the back and fairly embedded in
crinkly aneora fur. Her gowns bring up
the hustle question. Not one of them but
has a roll or two of hair-stuffed cloth Sc
creted in the Grapery at the waist. It's
true they slope some but they are still
bustles.
1t is only slim debutantes who can do
without them and every woman over
twenty five here still clings to the hustle.
Mrs. Harrison never dropped them, al
though both her daughter and daughter-ln-
law did for a time.
BLACK SILK y THREAD LACE DRESSES.
Mrs. Wanamaker likes thread lace, in
texture, film like, and in color, black. AS
she is a woman of few caprices, she can at
ford to satisfy this one to the full.
She is a woman out of the ordinary any
way. She likes engraviDgs better b
color paintings, shivers a little at the too
white glare of diamonds and would rather
don a black robe covered with a cobweb OF
black thread lace than all the superb gowns
il her wardrobe, Her nature is toned to
fine issues and no garish touch will be seen
in anything Mrs. Wanamaker does or
wears this winter. Think of it, a woman
of her wealth does not like diamonds. She
has them by the peck, but she never bought
the smallest stone for herself or her chill
dren. The strain of Quaker in ner blood
makes all blazon and glare distastful to her.
Her jewel case contains a necklace OF
matched stones which Mr.. Wanamaker
purchased when abroad, earrings formed
of gems exactly like those in the necklace
/ and bracelets buftprf1ipS alprpffaS and
bonnet pins galore. Only one piece does
she often select from her collection and
that is a superb pair of earrings presented
to her by her father shortly before his
death. Although she never wears brace
lets and rarely a necklace, she always
wear a finger ring formed OF an immense
dusky sapphire buried in a crown of tiny
diamonds. She has a fondness for the al
most translucent blue of that stone.
SOME OF MRS. wANAMAKER's DINNER GOWNS.
Everything about Mrs. Wanamaker's
wardrobe is on touch with her taste in
gems. Among her dresses for this winter
is a grande toilette of ivory satin. draped
in an indescribably graceful way with
white barege, a long length OF which is
wound about in one piece. forming folds of
exquisite softness. Folds are Mrs. Wanna
makers favorite device in the dress art
and a violet velvet that she has suffered no
trimming save folds of heliotrope crepe
shaped at the throat in a way that would
make a s%culptor's conception unsymetrical.
The white dinner own of which l spoke
has a front of rare Honiton which shares
with black thread lace Mrs. Wanamaker'S
favor. She rather likes the green shades
for her house and carriage dresses and one
in which she made calls upon the ladies of
the Supreme Court and Senate was green
vicume with light jacket of the same, as
tho dove -apa fnn worm fnr f1rS unr,
bonnet with this was the acme of simple
ity. In the first place it was a mere scrap,
such as the comets of the day are. The
crown was of dark green velvet draped
over two or three folds of reseda green of
the same texture. The strings were of the
lighter green and the bow in which they
were knotted was larger than is usually
seen.
COSTUME WHICH Is A POEM. @
Mrs. Hit, the wife of Congressman Hit,
of Illinois. always dresses distinctively a
la mode. There is a touch Of transcendent
air in her gowns. They always mean
something and a friend of hers says that
she could tell che of Mrs. Hits gowns if
she saw it on a tailor's model. Take, for
instance, one hat she wore at a ball this
winter. 1t was OF black net de BruXelles
but a dozen ladies in the room might have
worn the same abric unmarked. The art
was not in the fabric but in the cut. 1t
barely touched the floor in front and was
curved in a long SinuouS 49, to the train,
the deepest curve of the 49, coming just
where the high-heeled patent slipper APP
peared, and, yes, it did show one-hal a
clock of the meshed stocking. There were
two glorious streams of light on the dress,
one made by four finger wide scarlet rib
bons which had their origin in some myster-
ious way at the waist and hoated, meteor
| lilo 70 tho hnpa of tho to,aTn How ,,eL1a
was as large as those worn three years ago.
The other radiance was produced by a dia-
mond star, spray of DAISIES, Greek cross
and raceme of fo~rget-me-nots which began
the indentation of the heart-shaped bodice
and pursued an even diamond course to
the left shoulder. A diamond necklace
with crescent pendant, a half dozen small
diamond crowns in the hair clasping to
place a velvet Jacque rose were a fitting
finish to Mrs. HITS distingue face.
One touch of her toilet suggested a revo-
luton. Years ago Mrs. Horace Helyer. of
the British legation, made the daring inno-
walton of black gloves for full dress. Mrs.
Hit at this ball wore black gloves reach
ing a little above the elbow and every one
favored the change from the tyranical tan.
TWO RICH SENATOR'S WIVES
Mrs. Stockbridge and Mrs. Stanford
| nave the most elegant clothes of any of the
I Senator's wives, although Mrs. Hale has
: as elegant if not as many toilets. They
T both favor heavy white satins and Mrs.
Stanford has a superb dress of ruby velvet
with front of quaint Spanish point. Some
of Mrs. Stockingbridge's array of dresses
5 she has had for two or three, years and
never worn them, for like poorer NOR
tails she loves the old. She has ap
r peared at afternoon receptions in
= half black silk and has looked
much happier than in her rich ~brocades.
e She is probably the unique woman CT the
country in that she went TO Europe last
summer and did not purchase a stitch. Sac
T has nothing more to buy.
1 Mrs. Senator Hearst, of California
| dresses rather modestly fora woman Of hel
wealth. Of all the Pacific slope girls thai
$ she has brought out here she has Away:
I insisted upon simple dress. The simplicity
may cost So per square inch, but it is still
simplicity.
/ SOME GORGEOUS JEWELS.
r Mrs. Stockbridge has superb Jewels
notably a fine set of pink canoes sur
rounded with immense diamonds. Blu
Mrs. L. Z. Letter can out-do everyone il
the size of her stones. She has one neck
d lace made of three ropes, the center stone
of which are as white as new steel and a
a large as a mans thumb nail. There i
nothing niggardly about any Of the stone
y in this necklace, for the one that is imbed
ded in the clasp at the back would distance
the stud that Hon. Timothy Campbell wa.
wont to wear at Mrs. Whitney's dinners
A parure hangs from the lower rope, ant
d the whole necklace leads one to believ
|, that Haggard must have seen it before b
= described the stones Cleopatra drew fror
1t the mummy kings head.
crocE1Ncc . . FINE Ac ANcErs e, wr~cS