New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-09-28
THE LAND OF MARMION.
PICTURES OF THE SCOTTISH BORDER.

ROYAL pEEwIcK-THE sEACoAsr SCENERY
The BRIDE OF LAMMBRMooK-HIsroRIC
AssoOIATIoHs-A VISIT TO THE
RUINS OF NORMAN CASTLE
tsxoxAsr.vy CORRESPONDENT OF THE rgIbrSs'
Berwick -on- Tweed. September 8.
II had long been my wish TO sec something CT
Royal Berwick, and Or acquaintance Las ~
length begun This is town Of somhre gray
houses, capped with red roofs; town oi e'anof"'e.
ld-fasoncd, d;suscd Notifications: tr"n oi
dismanted military walls; town OF noble s'"'e
bridges and s,alwart piers town of breezy.
battlement wolks fine sea-views. spacious beachcs'
cas,cllatcd remains steep streets. broad squares
narrow, winding ways, many churches, q"iet
customs ard ancient memories. Tie Fiesen', W.
deed, has marrcd the Past IN this Old to"h'
dissipatlng TIE element Of romance and putting no
adequate substitute in its place. lc' the eieHe''
of is here, for such observers as can ioo'
on Berwick through the eyes OF tho imaGlnat'oh'
and even those who can imagine nsthing must AZ
least perceive that its aspect ID regal 'lc"e''
as hal often viewed it. from the great borocr
Bridge between England and Scotland. IT rises
on its graceful promontOry, -bathcd VI snhs"'ne
and ,,arkly bright amid the sparkling silver o!
The sca.-o |crltcOlc OccaH xuecH. Ao-"'' Nv
walked upon all its walls, dreaded its principal
streets, crossed its ancient bridge. explored ITS
Suburbs entered its municipal hall. visited its
parish church, and taken lon: drive through the
country that encirccs it: and how at midnight,
sitting in this lonely chamber of the Kings Arms,
nusing upon the past and writing these words Of
not un.cnt.e commcmoratiOn hear not SIMPLY
the roll Of q carriage wheel or the football o!
late traveller dying away in the distance, bnt the
music with which WARRIORS proclaimed their VIC
tories ard kings and queens kept festival and
statc.
This has been a pensivc and sonlbre day, Tor
in its course have said farewell TO many lovely
aud beloved scenes Edinburgh was never more
beautiful! than when she FADED in the golden INST
Of this autnmnal morning On Preston battle
field tho golden harvest stood in stacks, and tho
nicodows glimmercd green in the soft sunshine,
willie over them the white clouds drittcd and the
Icaccful rocks made wing. In happy Incidence ana
mace Soon the ruined church OF Seyton came
into view, with its singular stuntcd tower and
It's venerable gray walls couched deep in ,rccs. nnd
alt arouni il the cultivated many-colored fields
aid the breezy, emerald pastures stretching away
TO the verge of the sea 4 slimpse-an" II IS
lone. But one sweet picture no sooner van'shtS
t!,an its place Is filled with another. iondcr, on
the hillside is the manorhousc. stately with
battlc,ncnt and tower. its antique aspect softened
by great masses " clinginc ivy. Here nestled
in the sunny valley arc the little Stone cottages,
,oofed with rod tiles and bright with the adorn-
u.eut OF arba,us ard hollyEocE. All around are
harvest fields and market -carccns,-the abundant
dark green Of tic p)tato patches hcinS SoIgeousy
~ with tie intermin:lcd lnstre OF millions OF
Wild flowers. white and gold, over which arc many
fights OF dives SoYe,mcs u"ol tie yellow l'Tei
of the hayfc,ds sudden wave Of brilliant p"pplcs
seems to break. dashing itself into scaliet foam
linid, startled sheep scurry away INTO thei.
uusturcs as we lash swiftly ly them. wonph
standing at beI cottage door looks o' us with
curious gaze. Farms tccining with plenty ere
swiftly traversed. their Eany circular, conc-toppci
layricks standing like towers OF amber TALL
smoking ci,imncys in the little factory villages
fit By ard disappear. Everywhere there are signs
of industry and thrift, and everywhere also there
are dcnotcments of the sentiment and taste that
ire spontaneous in the nature OF TINS people
Tontolon lies in the near distance, and as we
snced toward ancient Dunbar we are dreaming
once more the dreams OF orr hoyhood and can
hear IN ttrumpets and see the pennons and
catch again the silver CLEAN Of tie spears
of Narnion. Dunbar is left behind, and
with il the sad memory Of Mary Stuart
infatuated with barharic Eothwcll, and whr.rd
AWAY 70 shipwrcck ard ruin.-as 50 u:any great
natures have been before and will be again,-
upon tho black reefs OF human passion. VIC arc
skirtinc the hills Of LammermOOr now, and
shedding through plains OF a fertile vrrdCre tha'
ia brilliant and beautiful down to the very margin
If tho OCEAN Close by Cohurnnspa rs the long,
lonely. melancholy beach that well may have bech
in SCOTS remembrance Wien lie 1@ah:"Ne" th''
weird and tragic close Of The most poc'lcni an"
ra+bct;c Of all his works, willie near at band on
thu most ,lcsola;e of lcadlnnds. the grim rain OF
Fast CostIc,-whici is deemed the original oil his
WoIfs Crag.-rrowns darkly on the White breakers
A. it's suryc-bcatrn base. Edgar Of Pavcns"oOd
is no longer al image of fiction. when Ion 100"
upon this scene Of gloomy grandeur ana MNSfrE
But we do not look upon II 700 ciosr%. nor ior
l,,c-nnd Of nil scenes that arc contriTcd as uiS-
,;nc,iyc!y weird, link il may trul; he said that
ihev are more impressive IN the iniasnatl" hh?n
IN the ac:ra! prospect This coast a. litt!c later
in oar co1rsc. is f,!! of dark ravincs. stretching
saward ard tlnci,ly shronlcd w!ih trees. hrt IN
them row aud then glimpse is caught u a
spur,v sheltered house. ovcrgrown Wit. ilow"rS.
..cur,)v protcc,cd from every bast Of storm.
Th. ycst IL omn land, which many dark walls
n,r,i,jo, md mnny hawthorn hedges. ana many
ji,tIc white reads winding away toward til" shore
for this is Scottish seaside pagean'ry, ana ~"
.uul;t OCEAN makes silver setting Yer tic
iewc,lca landscape all the way 10 BERWICK.
TIE prol: Of walking in the footsteps OF G'e
,,,s. ia that VIC learn She value Of the privilege OF
,if, in tlc Present. The men and women oi 'He
past had their opportunity. and each Improved IL
,,,cy his kind These are the same plains IL
which Hruce ard Wallace fought for fae honor,
and established the supremacy, Of the Kingdom OF
S.m,and. The same syn .lli, those plains TO-
day. the same sweet wind blows over f!eih' an"
the Same sombyc, majestic occar br'aks IN so'e'n
murmnrs On their sLorc lIodic mini. oras TIL! -
a, it USED ~ ic written OIL the altar SKULLS Ill the
arcien. churches. Yesterday belonged to them
today l,lnnrs TO us-and we'll will il be Tor us II
VIC improve it. In such an hstori" town as 'h's
.hc lesson is brought home ~ Il thGughtful nina