The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1890-07-03
NEW YORK. FASHIONS
Materials Suitable for Mourning Dress<
to Be worn I'm Summer. sEsss


Materials Suitable for Mourning Dresses
to Be Worn7ins Summer. sEss&
7 Henrietta cloth is the material chosen
for the first dress worn as mourning,
either as deep or high tmourning, and in
summer and winter alike; a thinning
of English Grape makes this fabric suit
able for the deepest mourning dress,
while passementerie, dull silk or little
dull jet trims it when worn as light
mourning. For second best dresses are
tamis cloths and batistes, woolens of
light weight, with smooth surfaces that
shed dust, and do not roughen when
brushed. For summer wear are thin
wool crepons crinkled like crepe de
Chine, or in slight stripes, or small
plaids. Nuns vailing is still in favor
for thin dresses, whether plain with
wide selvage, or hem-stitched in stripes,
or merely with a hem-stitched hem
along one selvage.
Grenadines of all kinds are once more
in vogue, and are preferred to net for
summer dresses. Hermann, the iron
grenadine of mixed wool and silk in
square meshes, is used for the deepest
mourning dress es, and also in large
shawls for old ladies. Silk grenadines
have an armure border six inches wide
at one selvage to be used at the foot of
the skirt, as the fabric is forty->ix
inches wide; there are also stripes of
armure or of gros grain on such grena-
dimes, while the fine sewing-silk grena-
dimes have tiny dots or larger spots,
single long-stemmed blossoms or flow
cred bands, and the durable armure
grenadines have lace effects in stripes,
spots and borders A fabric called new,
but merely a revival of the thin smooth
grenadines of long ago. resembles the
mousseline pc sole now in vogue, and is
known as silk vailing, being used both
for walls and gowns; it is a yard and a
quarter wide, with selvages two inches
broad, the heavier qualities being re-
quired for dresses.
For summer silks crepe de Chine O!
dull jet black is the favorite mourning
dress, whether of plain, slightly crinkled
surface, or striped, spotted or Powered.
The genuine Canton Grape makes a rich
dress for the deepest mourning. For
accessories of dresses, for the entire
sleeves, for the front of waists, and for
panels of skirts are many thin creped
fabrics, as crepe sable, thin as gauze,
and very deeply crinkled, and also the
brocaded sheer grapes, or thin striped
! grapes, like moussellne de chiffon. En-
glish Grape. too we'll known to need de-
scription, remains the favorite dress
over silk or wool for widows, and for
their walls also Plain India silk is apt
to spct when moistened, and is only
guaranteed in the most costly qualities.
A similar fabric made in Lyons, called
Peybo, is thicker than India silk, and
of pure jet black. The figured Indias
have tiny white dots, thread lines.
or skeleton leaves or blossoms on black
ground, or else the larger chrysanthe-
mum or poppy blossoms. The surah
silks are heavily twilled, and nearly
lusterless, with plain grounds, or striped
with white, or pin-dotted, or with open
stripes. like drawn-work, at intervals OF
one or two inches. ,,s3; -r. r. f,''l..s. 4
For cotton dresses the Scotch ginghams
are best for mourning wear, in, chine
| figures, stripes, Or bars OF gray or OF
Viii te "a black grounds. " For all-wlite
dresses are wide lawns or nainsooks,
/ with skirt hens that are hem-stitched
along one se1vage, and II a Color is In.
! PRODUCED there are India dimities, null
and French lawns with black Or lavender
dots, tiny flowers. Or lines stripes on
clear white grounds that may be corded
or in revering stripes. --Harper's Bazaar
-. - - = 49,.