New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-03-09
GATEWAYS OF THE PLATE.
H..
A MODERN EUROPEAN CITY.
ASPECTS OF MONTEVIDEO-FINE STREETS AND
LOVELY sUBURBs-A CITY OF MANI


lated as Il see the mountain and derives It's
significance from the high hill thai commands
tie harbor Uruguay is rolling prairie with
lines OF mountains i'm the interior along the
Brazilian frontier. From the mouth of the Plaie
this single mountain looms up as the landmark OF
! the city Monfcvidco is less prctcnt!ouSiy namcd
than Valparaiso which signifies the valley OF
Paradise; but its good qualities do not require
development by contrast, as in that case, with
things internal 1t is simply city marked by
mountan-perhap the handsomcst town in
South America.
The mountain guards the entrance to deep
cove or bay which forms the inner harb0r. over
against it stands the city a peninsula, perhaps
half mile in width. the street levels sloping
toward the river front side, and toward
the back bay the other. Thirty years ago
only n portion Of this peninsula occupied
Now the city stretches outward for miles along
the river. and back of the bay are beautiful
suburbs with lovely gardens. Tho suburbs en-
circle the bay and fringe the base of the noun
tain. with its Notifications and SLAUGHTER pens.
The population probably exceeds ?OO, 600, and is
increasing with extraordinary ppidiiy. lmmi-
grafton within the last decade has reinforced tie
Crueuayan stock with large continents from
Italy aud Spain Italians take the place Of the
negroes Of a Brazilian coast city as the working
popuiation They man the lighters employed in
loading and unloading vessels, and they pave
she streets and do large part Of tie mannal
labor. Spanish is the prevailing language. but
Italian can be heard at every turn. There are
also thousands of Ilasques from Spain and france,
and as many Brazilians from Rio Grande Sui
and the southern or cattle provinces. Uruguay
Of which Montevideo is the capital, is country
about ms large as the siN Ncw-Eneland States,
with Ncw-Jcrscy and Delamarc added. ~ has
population of 100000, with 100000 native
Cmguayans
Monrevidco is neither quaint Ike Bahia nor
picturesque like Rio. hut il IS modern and hand
some The city is seen - excellent advantage
from the harbor. the cathedral. churches and
public buildings standing on high ground along
tie crest Of the peninsula and the ware
houses and shops rcceding tier by tier
10 the sca-walls of the water front.
This favorable impression is increased when tho
customs line has been passed, and the traveller
is fairly in the town. The streets are wide.
well paved, amply lighted, and compactly built
up. The architecture is modern and massive.
/ Granite and Italian marbles are used i'm tnr
/ handsome building fronts. Pop uguesc tiles are
seen only in the olest quarters of the town.
/ Plaster fronts SO common in Brazil arc replaced
/ with fine building stone much OF which IS puaired
/ ian tie rlguay hills Tie streets are lad out
I with rs much r-ularity those of the upper
portions of Ncw-lor.S. The leading thorough
/ fare. known as the Julio. and recording date
Of patriotic memory, is as much finer than the
Outil0ro fiot, Broadway 5 more impressive 'haa
! Nilllsu.-st.. Ncw-lork. II leads through three
/ plazas or squares. ON the first of these stands
! the cathedral massive building with two towers
and impressive architectural effects ON another
side is the Snowy Uruguay clubhouse. with
/ sfatiarv 10 match that of the cathedral Close
az hand is the chic, opera house and theatre OF
tie town. and the handsomesi and most tasteful
/ building which have seen on the Atlantic coaso
! of South America. \ lew blocks farther on 10
/ a pla1l. surrounded on four sides by Government
J and other buildings. with continuous lines Of
coonnades and arcades-a unique and striking
effect The trees in these squares are all younS,
and time Will ic required Tor obtaining from them
shade and tor ..c,hness Of color III contrast WIN
the marble aAd granite of the impressive facades
/ \ third plaza with a graceful column surrounded
with statue OF Liberty Is IN tie heart OF the
F city. Al the way from tie cathedral tAe J+lIo
Is llued with handsome shIpS, III WnicH i"I"P'1h
good, are uttractlNclA d.spA}cd .
Montcyidco Is as modern IA It's manner o. I'VE
~ IN It's architectural aspects. IN atmosphere
OF Aca.thiui hustle and activity pcrN1d's as
streets. There are strcct-caiN uund.in- ih every
tAoroughlarc, tie musical morn, of the conductor
bclng ncaru long past midnight ann Ia tie earliest
| hOuis of the morning. idnasOmc cdIii"-c' anu
! chs ar. in the streets The wide Sidewalks are
| thrOngcd with busy, energetic ana iilN
| population. There IS Wideawa<c and prosperous
! air about the town That reminded ne siivN-.
Vi Boston, To which il bears marked resent 'l''
IN topogrlphical features and compociucs' oil COLI
/ strucilon But NonicNIdcO Is European ldiAcr
/ flnu American IN It's aspects and customs. ~
i, a modern Spanisl, town. with Llmpses Of Italian
/ architecture and refinement ca taste, aid with
the commercial hustle and movement Of bren.' a
I or Hamburg. The banking quarter Is as 5'lii
and enduring rs the hpdNcl"l system OF u'
country on the basis Of god. Inc custom house
Is AN institution conducted on modern prnr.pcs
and with u business intelligence that II lacking
in Brazil There IS no daWdiins in street or IN
shop. Men have WORK to DO, and they do not
waste time over il. Tie city belongs to the laSt
decade Of the nineteenth century. aud not mid
way in the eighteenth, like many OF the Brazilian
towns.
| tie direction of Paso del Molno, where IS Tire
| Prado. public garden. with line upon Inc or
tasteful villas surrounded with gardens ih'.c
suburban houses are utterly unlike the old-i.is.-
| toned Portuguese mansions OF Rio or lahla ANA
belong TO the modern class of spacious, wcll-i"-
signed and thoroughly comfortable country resi-
Grnccs The gardens are lovely. 1t Is the roS'~
season now. and all tie fragrance and radiant
Glory of a Northern suburban garden are repro
| ,iuccd The latitude Is lower by seven degrees
| than that of New orlI and the climate l. more
! cquablc Greenhouses are largely dispensed with.
| the temperature even in tAe coolest weather, N'-
ing above tine freezing point. Roses rc4alr no
protection in winter, and Hover, are hioomlug
neary the year around IN these spacious and or
DERBY gardens Fine lawns are intrcqucnt the
grass here not being suitable for good landscape
effects bat the displays OF trees and lowering
shrubbery of all kinds are exceedingly beautiful
In these suburban residences the wclltO-dO classes
live all the year. and they ought 10 be conlrhtrl
with their surroundings, which surpass In lowell
mes, and natural attractions any other residence
dUartcr on the Atlantic Coast OF South America
| The handSouest house in the Paso del Moilno IS
the official residence of the Argentine Minister
which stands in the centre of a magnificent prl-
waite park
The hotels in the city are thoroughly modern
in the Europenn scnse-.if least. two Of th"m. ana
a third 81 even greater architectural preriis MS
! than the rcst il rapidly approaching c'hpI'Unh'
| The bnt.s arc constructed with three or four in
terror courts and hive tiers of inner ami onier
rooms on three or four floors. There Is iinie
d'hotc breakfast and dinner at noon .nl fi"'H'
coffee being served from 10 . O'Clock IN th'
morning The service IS excellent ana one cen
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