The Washington critic. (Washington City, D.C.) 1890-1890, 1890-02-16


sleeves. picturCsqucly formed and fully
droppd and entirely embroidered with
silver spanglcs In by gone days a
woman wearing dress of ono material
and sleeves of another unless at fancy
dress ball, would have been looked
upon rs somewhat daft or that sue had
not possessed sufficient material TO com.
plctc her gown. Nowadays the fashion
Is not only to vary The materials, but
also colors, and really the effect is ex-
coedingly becoming; consequently at
such originaliics We cannot possibly
grumblc.
There seems 90 bc mad idea these
days to cOuntcracb The natural effect of
our physiqucs The tall, slender girl
leiolcos in being able 10 wear sashcs
and hip draping. The little. round
one runs to perpendicular lines. All
very well when our characteristics arc
too pronounced.
For very slim figure there is Di-
rectoire modification of the old vest and
jacket style. The jacket is OF three
lhickncsscs, each thickness cut shorter
and smaller than the last You re-
member the triple coachmcn capos
that used 10 be worn? The inside or
longest thickness is cut of Just above
The waist line. The lhicknessos arc all
quite loose and free from each other
The same idca is carried out in the
sleeve. The first thickness is supposed
TO make the full length of
sleeve; the other two are cut
The first about at the elbow, the next u
little above, and both are slit straight
up the arm to where they enter the
should er seam. The edge OF the
longer over.piccc shows, of course, be.
yond the edge of the shorter along the
silt as il does around the arm. The
jacket is cut wide TO show the entire
front Of the under bodice. This
bodice has plentcd yoke pointed in
front just below the breast line, while
below this yoke il fits closely, crossed
in double breasted fashion. A very
clever drcssl The slim, long waist Is
displayed, the round Of bust assisted in
front by the pleatcd yoke, and breadth
across the figure helped by the triple
jacket. AT the same time unpleasant
slimness of the upper arm is concealed
by the style of sleeves.
There is an evident movement against
the long waists which have tortured
some of us and made us look ont of all
proportion besides. A handsome pointed
neck dress is made with a sort of tight
fitting Spanish jacket, the edge of which
just reaches the waist. line at the back
and rounds up from under the arms till
the two points meet and fasten Just
under the breast line The triangular
space left in front is filled with loosely
falling lace or net, confined by ribbons
fastened to the edges of the jacket as
they meet the waist.line. These rib
bons tie loosely in front. The sudden,
ugly and unnatural concavc from
breast-line TO waist in front is thus con-
ccaled.
Hair is dressed most deliberately for
New York balls but not all atop of the
head as formerly. See my pictures for
particulars. Hair must look as If il
stays so without hair-pips. The girls
who have very little hair seem to be the
ones in luck just now. All the same.
If you have magnificent heavy locks
you can afford to laugh and stick to
your Greek coil at the back of your
head. No woman whose luXuriant nat.
ural cndowments prevent her from fol
lowing fashion need be sorry. If you
can't wear a triple jacket and plated
yoke rejoice and don't. II your figure
needs such assistance rejoice that
fashion permits it.and do il. We can.
not all of us dress in low neck bolster
case and look like Nine. Recamicr.
And when you go TO bail always