St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1890-08-07
LETTER FROM MEXICO.


Editor CALIFORNIAN:
have been so busy since coming
here that have neglected giving you
an account Of my trip down here,
which was in many respects quite
novel. Leaving St. Johnsbury about
the middle OF May, | was whirled
across the country via Boston, Buff
falo. Cleveland, over the big four
route, on through the booming cities
of Chattanooga, Birmingham, New
England City, New Orleans, thence
through Texas where the scenery
was varied and beautiful. The long
stretches of green field were dotted
here and there by clumps of trees and
Orange blossoms, pink, white and
purple, are numerous and beautiful.
Near midnight reached San Antonio.
This is quaint old city, half Spanish,
half American, full of beautiful gar
dens and a clear sulphur river flows
through its midst There is small
real estate boom here. At Laredo,
the border town of Mexico, | begin
to experience change III everything.
After the lynx-eyed officers had in
spected my baggage, L took the Mex
lean National railroad and was off
for Monterey, where | arrived the
following night. This is a city of
about 40, 900 population, built near
the foot hills of the Sierra Madre
mountains on the border of very
fertile valley. 1t is 100 feet above
sea level. There is d fine cathedral
here and beautiful plaza, where the
people go at sunset to parade. The
buildings are quaint and curiously
constructed, the dwelling houses
having barred windows like a prison.
The hotel where | lodged was built
of stone, even the floors being of that
material. The furniture in my room
consisted of bed and a table, Amer
lean luxuries they called them, and
charged accordingly. Butter is not
on the bill of fare. Near the city is
the Bishops palace, now used as a
garrison. A clear, cool stream bub-
blcs up from the earth right in the
center of the city and short dis
tance out are the well-knOWn TOpO
Chico springs, famous for their cura-
tive properties. Here are hotel,
pavilion and bathing houses, open
the wear round, and these springs are
fast becoming a healthful and popu-
lar resort. The manners and GUS
toms of the people are SO different
from ours that it is interesting stop
ping here. A woman is very rarely
seen on the streets here except in the
early morning when they throng the
market places. The plaza, which IS
found in every Mexican city. is
thrOnged at sunset with the people
coming out from their shattered
houses. They form in procession
and march back and forth, the men
and women very rarely exchanging
a word. A stranger can join with
them or sit quietly by and look on.
The streets are bounded by a solid
stone wall, from three to four feet in
thickness, a good protection from
the heat. The bull fight is the Sun
day amusement.
My next objective point is Veto
ria, the capital of the state. The
railroad does not run there, SO | was
forced to place myself at the mercy
of the natives and employ a mozo,
guide, who came to me highly recon-
mended. We started and soon found
ourselves beyond the domains of
English speaking people and a three
days trip before us. The roads were
rough and the surrounding country
1bounded in tropical shrubs, with
here and there a large tree. Further
on trees became more numerous and
were magni6cently draped with long
pendants of southern moss After a
days travel the fields became fewer
and the rivers and streams less
numerous. Occasionally the rude
hut of native was passed. These
were made of reeds and plastered up
tight with mud and the roof matched
with palm leaves. Half a dozen such
huts constitute Il village. The ma
tives are satisfied with them and
want nothing better. They furnish
them shelter from rain and shade in
which to take their siesta or sleep
during the heat of the day. Their
furniture is very Scant, as is also their
supply of dishes. 1t would puzzle an
American to know how to eat a sup
per of soft fried eggs, soft boiled rice
and bean soup. That was my bill of
fare the first evening after travelling
in the hot sun all day, and | confess
my ignorance of how to tackle it,
but my guide began his, using a
tortilla rolled up like a spoon, and
did likewise. | had to carry my bed
all the way. 1t was light and sim
pie, consisting of a blanket with a
hole cut in the middle through which
ones head is thrust in case of rain.
At night the blanket is spread upon
the ground and one lies down upon
it. There is no need for covering in
this warm cline A peculiar insect,
resembling a sheep tick, causes the
traveller much annoyance nights.
They are very numerous and their
bite Is harder and more painful than
the mosquito. 1t is quite convenient
to be able to get up at night and
shake these garapatas, as they are
called, off your bed, preparatory to
another Snooze. After three nights
like this, | arrive on the fourth day
at Victoria, a beautiful city of 1000
inhabitants, where | was glad to
meet DR. j. H. King, the United
States consular agent, who gave me
a cordial reception and secured me
another mOzo to conduct me through
to my destina ton, La Flour. At
Victoria | bought horse and saddle
and continued i'll the same way,
boarding with the natives and sleep
ing on my blanket.
La Flour is the garden spot of
Mexico. The surrounding country
Is mountainous and mostly covered