St. Paul daily globe., 1890-05-03
SCIENCE OF DRINKS.
A Dissertation on What We're
Once Favorite Tip
pies.
Punches and Cups Coneoeted
From Ales, Spirits,
and Wine.
Old England's Frightful
Drinks and Young Amer
lean Fads.
Cocktails for EARLY Birds and
Drinks to Round
Up On.

4: ]. 4 Il. :" )" !: 4 4 4: 5. 81 ! J !
3 3S with ales, spirits or
~ wines by themselves,
HA 81 but to show what
HIN hearty old England
EER withstOod in its stom-
EAN ach in the past. and IN
HRl contrast with what
S<@EEA Young America I'M
M | 81: :.!| 3: ;|::' ); 4
lnoRI0A Of T5IiS% ES5SoS. TsFs5@s5s@: SS5 ss8fs
upon the subject many
M-GAA- years ago, went back
HtFNtA me- iAEsSa many centuries IN his
Van E1EEzT introduction of for
WdMl COBniAH ANaign customs into
XEEAs-S-0S1S5SSSSSa& 4 England. He says in
gaANHI 9ssHHAS his preface: mod
EAalalElIiissN EIis ern usage has consid-
erabIy altered the So
eial habits in vogue with our fore
athers in both eating and
drinking. All that was heavy,
formal and mOnotOnouS in their
feastS has. owing to the more gen
ial customs we have been led to adopt
through our constant intercourse with
France and other countries, given way
to the display Of more refined taste" "
Still, the England Of the present cen
tury displays some bibulOuS enOrmities
that few bon vivantS of the Western
hemisphere would dare to tackle unless
they were undergoing hard labor in the
winter woods, for Americans are not
much prone forgetting under the table
at sitting.
fTboro ,Uor Gf4,, x,oorc ar0 PnGcion
punch much in favor in England, COM
posed of three pintS of weak green tea,
one pound of sugar, six lemons strained,
pint of arrack OF gill of Kummel, Il
pint of port wine and sWeetened to
taste. This is recommended by some
of the boys at ''high teas
But upon all their steepings, which
seem to be innumerable, heavy and
light, there is not room to dwell. only to
mention the old variations of punches
Cutters. Coleman'S, Gurten'S, Franca-
telli's, Billy DawSon's, Trinidad, VauX-
hall Souvenir, Bumbo, Guys (Which
takes in citron, cinnamon and strong
young hysOn), Henry Knights tea and
Scotch whisky, OrbeH's (tai1ing in
every spice that can be named), I'M
perial Cream of tartar and pineapple
RUM, down to clear gin and whisky
mixtures.
Now for the ''cups" and other drinks
that mean bumpers" aterm that came
trm the ancientS, dedicatiOnS to favor
ite deity perhaps pledge OF toast at
3anQuets, a trip TO allay thirSttirSt, then
for pleasure, then to Jupiter, all drawn
from the Romans. The Cup of Her
cules," which contained four English
quarts, caused the death of Alexander
The Great, unconquered in war. sub
dued by cup" The "Stirrup cup''
and the Loving cup" were of this
order, though partaken of by party,
as at old-faShioned New England church
comnunions. The Scandinavian barba-
rians drank mead and ale out of the
skulls of the vanquished while listening
to the music of shinbone pipe. Hot
compound drinks continued i'll vogue
until recent date. Claret, Burgundy,
champagne, Rhein, Moselle, Sauturne,
Chablis and sherry wines, cider, ale, etc,
were all blended in one way or another
in ''cups,' hot and cold.
~
Some time in the forties came in
some American ideas, the first by Capt.
Marryatt, who introduced the compound
styled mint julep'' into England. He
wrote: II must descant a little upon
the mint iulcp, as it is, with the ther-
mOmeter at 100 deg, one of the most de-
lightful and insinuating potations that
was ever invented, and may be drank
with equal satisfaction when the ther-
mOmeter is as low as 20 deg. There
are MANY varieties, such as those
composed of claret. Madeira, etc., but
the ingredients of the real mint julep
are as follows. | learned how to make
them and succeeded pretty well: Put
into tum6ler about a dozen of the
tender shoots Of mint; upon them put a
spoonful of white sugar and equal pro-
portions of peach and common brandy,
so as to fill up One-third, or perhaps
less. Then take rasped or pounded ice
and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub
the lips of the tumbler with a piece of
fresh pineapple and the tumbler itself
is often incrusted outside with stalac-
tites of ice. AS the ice melts you
drink"
But the American cocktail was the
concOction that captured John Bull al
the time of the first worlds fair at the
Crystal palace in London in 1851. AS
Mr.. Terrlngton wrote of it then: Cock
tails are compounds very much used by
'early birds to fortify the inner man
and by those who like their consolation
hot and strong. Cocktail is not so all.
cient an institution as julep, but with
its next of kin, 'cauSta,' promises tC
maintain its ground" Here is one OF
the recipes carried over for the BritOn's
use: Half pint of brandy or gin, hall
gill Of Curacao, tablespoonful OF
bitters, half gill of ginger
syrup, pint Of Ice; mix
with spoon: moisten rim of tumblel
Wilh lemon juice. The changes were
rung OH whisky, cider and other item
perance" spirits, and the Englishmer
were delighted. But the fun came il
1852, when the yacht America crossed
the Atlantic to win the cup that is nov
in controversy. The story was told tht
writer on the return of Mr.. Steers grea
success in marine architecture to New
York year later. The British yachts
men were entertained on board a
breakfast one forenoon when the flee
was on a cruise. The cocktail was in
trOduced as an incentive to appetite
The Britons liked it, and as it was not
very long-drawn-out drink they re
peated it to the tune of hilariousnes
before the breakfast was set.
-
Sherry cobbler was an America
drink that took well with Engls
ladies, as it was made of VINE instca
OF spirits; and champagne, hook, Sau
terne and other wines often form tn
basis. Here is the standard recipe: 81
quarter pint of sherry, one ounce G
sugar, three slices of orange, or a fey
strawberries or raspberries;; if liked,
little powdered cinnamon or grated nut
meg on the top; fill up the tumbler wit
planed ice: use straws." This stray
business was considered in Englan
something delightful when first intro
duced, and the Sherry cobbler has bee
a growing fayorite from its first intro
ductiOn.
There are many other America
"sensations" of the lighter yet equal
potent order if so mixed, that followe
these; but their unique names had a
much to do with their success, however
as did the actual compounding. ''Sleer
er," Locomotive" Baltimore Egg
nog," General Harrlson's Eggnog,