The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1890-10-19

those with either high straight collars. or
with the fiaring ones belonging to the Med
lei reign in Frauce. These curving collars
give dignity TO the carriage and have
regal appearance which rs most becoming
TO women with slender necks.
The Repu6lic says that lovely dress is
ons OF pale yellow tulle over yellow sa In or
/ failIe. A wonderfully beautiful effect IS
also given by the use Of finely Watered
| yellow silk under the tule.
Irish pOplin is fabric-a most excellent
/ and really beautiful one-which for dura-
| bility win outlast two silk gowns. Some OF
! the dyes are superb in tint, and the fabric
lends itself well to the embellishments of the
handsome silk OF bead passemeuteries now
so fashionable.
The strong points Of the dress Of the pres
ent are suitability and appropriateness. The
toilet for the drawing-room in no way
resembles the gown suitable for the prone
made. and the woman who cOnfounds the
one with the other finds herself greatly at
variance with the canons Of good taste and
elegance which happily prevail just now.
This is certainly one Of the great advan-
tages Of our modern days Of Independence,
that no one is obliged to follow any certain,
undertaking methods or fixed, unalterable
laws regarding their dress. 50 many and
it at last appears within human possibilities
to satisfy all eyes, tastes, persons and
purses.
Pale women with dark hair and eyes look
admirable In pink ornaments and garni-
lures. Success lies in maintaining the color
unmixed with any other Pink feathers,
pink pearl passementeries, roses and foliage
should complete the details An exception
is always made in the matter Of the addition
of cream or white lace TO toilet Of any
descript on.
Owls feathers are being made into pretty
boas and muffs, and there are also bands
for the dress skirt to correspond. The
creamy hue of the feathers is unusually
suited to women who have clear olive CON-
plexions and dusky hair. Feather bands
for edgIng cloth gowns, ball clOaks and
tea dresses are, this season, dyed a variety
of very handsome colors, both light and
dark.
Pale green and gold appear In combina-
ton on some exceptionally beautiful dresses
OF pompadour brocade A CLINT of delicate
mauve shows IN the background. o of
the very fashionable colors is mauve There
are any number Of tones, indifferently So
called, as, for example, pansy, anemone Ia
pink with tinge of purple in it,, heather
color, rhododendron, byacinth. and even the
magenta shades inconsequently appear in
the same list.
Paniers and other Louis XIV. draperies
are doing their best TO become a recog nizsd
feature Of prevailing fa-hion. These are
very becoming to women of slender tuild
II the side draPeries are not carried beyond
the bounds of common sense. Bodices differ
ing in their style OF trimming on each side
OF the front are still very general, and not
few modlstes ornament the backs of cor
sages as fully as the front, but only very
straight and upright back and very slight
figure can bear any such elaboration.
The new 'jeweled" garnitures are used
with moderation in expensive evening
toilets OF tule, Indian gauze. crepe de
Cnire and similar textiles. Translucent
and exceedingly brilliant iridescent beads.
which appear in all the colors and effects of
real gems, are also wrought on foundations
OF finest net; and these are arranged to
for RecAmier drapings and fichu folds on
bodices, and compose sleeves entire. SINH
lar embroideri in pearl and opal are on
bridal gowns Of Bengaline Sicilience, silk
crepa, or faille, yelled with crepe lisse.
Plumbs, aprlcots, nectarines. grapes, both
red aud lite, plain or frosted, appear
upon number of new bonnets and hats
The fruits are made to look wonderfully
natural and tempting, but they are not
beautiful when viewed from the top OF a
| AAuJ . hedu. udZSluuD DuuS, DluJer-SWeeJ,
| mountain ash be ries in red and yellow,
and other tiny berries in dark wine color
or vived scarlet, look we'll in clusters OF
trailing sprays on dark velvet bonnets or
hats, but artificial products Of the orchard
or market garden are abnormal decorations
for the milliners, for tomatoes, green
| pepper pods have also been utilized in pro-
| ducing garnitures for out-cf-tne-common
chapeaux and toques for autumn wear.
The extreme caprics, the luxury and
Laboratories Of home and evening toilets
are tiuey counterpoised by the rich aud
studied simplicity of those designed for the
street. The only fault of the latter cos
tunes consists in the tendency to lengthen
the skirt, a departure in the wrong direc-
ton which cannot be checked too soon.
For the rest, woman's dress at home and
abroad is just now most commendabe
Draperies are easy, and skirts graceful, the
ugly tournure dead, the sleeves loose, and
tight lacing almost thing OF the past, for
women now dress to walk, row, play tennis
and even cricket and base ball. They ride
drive and breathe. Wool is at a premium
for gowns aud underwear, and common
sense shoes are up head"