St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-06-01
new SPRING STYLES,
Gray the Fashionable Color
Of This Bright Sea-
son.
English Collars Must Go,
While Medici and Stuart
Rufus
And Marie Antoinette Fichus
Will Take Their
Place.
Small Bonnets All the Rage
Turkish Jackets
Are Swell.

The newest spring styles have proven
beyond doubt that gray is the color par
excellence of the season. 1t has dis
tanced all other skirts in the race for
supremacy. Occasionally ii is combined
with the new tint "autumne," which,
however, will hardly see its nameSake
in the fall as it is not destined to be
long-lived in the fashionable world. A
very much prettier combination is deli
cate gray, with maize or sulphur yell
low. At recent reception the prevail
ing color of the costumes was gray. A
very distingue dress was severely plain,
of dull gray cashmere, with high pulled
sleeves of deep yellow faiIle. A more
sedate, but very elegant one, was of
gray and amethyst; another of gray and
reSeda, and still another of the never
falling gray and pink. Over a skirt of
of pink silk, which threw gray shadows.
was worn another of some soft gray
WOODEN goods, which slashed at the
sides to the waist, was held together by
loops of passementerie cord showing
the pink silk cord below. Over a shit
pink silk, with full leg of mutton
sleeves, was worn a low-cut waist of
the gray material, sleeveless, with
pleats from the shoulder held in at the
waist by gimp belt. This costume is so
becoming that duplicate has been
maze up III black China silk, cashmere
and pink checked silk. The effect is
even more bewildering than the pink
and gray combination.
~
Not for day. but for MANY DAYS, is a
XNlf nh l,o.- en-
named LA COnquerante. 1t is so verv
becoming that of the ten Young women
who have worn such a costume seven
have become happy fances. This cos
tune IS OF black bengaline, Strewn with
PINK dots the size OF pea. The skirt
has straight, plain front, the back
formed of two full double pleats. Over
high-necked waist Of pink velvet, with
putfed sleeves of the same material is
worn low cut, sleeveless corsage of
black bengaline, which, fastened inside
the skirt. is finished by narrow belt Of
pink velvet, with large cacarde of velvet
ribbon both back and front, making an
appropriate finish. A piquante contrast
TO the pink velvet are the tiny en-
Droldered black dots of beads, which al
most cover 1t. This costume is consid-
cred by the mOdiSteS in the light of
maScOtte. as its sale is usually followed
by an order for the bridal trousseau.
If the spring in its budding beauty
were not an lnauspicous time, the Eng
llsh standing collar should receive a
long farewell ovation. It's hour has
come. we will have no more of it. and
the costumes of former ages must give
us substitute. With the more eIab-
crate costumes and wraps, we have the
Medicl collar; the Stuart ruff does duty
on misses dresses; the Marie Antoinette
menus for breezy summer costumes
makes the WeareT forget that there ever
was such thing as the English collar,
and the novel pointed creations of We
nellan and Irish lace give one a feeling
OF tilahkIulneSs and delight that the
modern means of torture is dispensed
with. As the costumes are made ND
quite plainly it is left to the material
and trimming to give them the desired
elegance
In the matter of corded passemen-
ferries, bead embroideries, fringes and
Iaces, the spring has done wonders.
Labor and art together have achieved
fairy-lke effects. The newest of these
are passementerie borders in which are
wrought rubies, turquoises aud coral.
In general the fancy is more for narrow
borders which trim the edges of the
skirt and, barely half an inch wide, the
seams of the waist. This last is styled
''cache points," and is in great demand.
For simpler costumes this style of trim
ming is not used. A broad hem forms
the distinguishing feature of the skirt.
and stylish sleeves that Of the waist,
which in conformity with the present
style are of lace or crepe, with colored
silk lining. The sleeves of a costume
are in fact at present the most interest
ing and important item, and occasion
ally appear to have no connection what
ever with the costume. They are made
entirely of passementerieS, bead and
silk embroidery, and of gold rings inter-
laced la Jeanne dare, which is Just
now the most talked-of woman in Paris,
thanks to Sarah Bernhardt.
The troublesome question of wraps is
partially settled by the appearance of a
dainty little pelerlne of mauve velvet
with black-beaded embroidery and
black silk fringe. A Turkish Jacket of
dark green velvet and long black lace
founcings and yokeS of white, black
and beige guipure with triple-pinked
flounceS. The seasons bonnets are
works of art. and the smaller the bonnet
the larger the bill, which is very old
and oft-told tale; but a bit of crepe not
much larger than the inner part of the
hand, with the necessary flowers or
brilliant aigrette. costs more dollars
than there are stitches in its makeup.
The open Wreaths are still very popular,
although puff of lace or illusion often
serves TO give them a less ball room-like
appearance. The newest models are
formed of two or three Greek fillets COW
cred with gauze about the thickness of
finger. Any style of bonnet Is allow
able so long as it is Ten miniature"