Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1890-07-06

ton in white or ecru, with scant stripes of
crimson and skv blue, or terra Gotta and
rerdigris, or black and white carry out the
fullest idea of GOODNESS. No vest is worn bv
young men even in shops and business
Offices. the wide folds of silk or thin wool
buckled around the waist being too comfort
able to exchange for starched duck. Starch
in summer is inimical to coolness and rare
artistic unconventional souls are taking to
the lawn and cambria ties which look so
picturesque when Mr.. Mansfield wears them
Oh the stage. If women don't assist this in
novation by approval and compliment they
deserve less at the hands of the other sex
than they think.
MORE AMIABLE IF COMFORTABLE,
But it is safe saying that for all but
formal dress, the shirt front of single
linen which needs the least starch in the
world and the iull cool tie of India muslin
in lieu Of a collar is the artistic style, and
if the trousers for yachting and camping or
the seaside recall pajama, or suggest that
the male hall OF creation has taken to wear
ing the divided skirt, what cannot be
tolerated, nav encouraged for the sake of
ccolness when people are so much more
alniable for being comfortable.
All the new ideas In dress are airv as
possible. The figured India and French
silks are made with plain gathered skirts,
trimmed with two broad insertions of black
lace above the wide hem. Or the new
, French fashion is adopted of six or eight
three-inch ribbons in contrast to the dress
carried down the front and sides, a quarter
of a yard apart, and knotted in a square
bow with four short loops and two long ones
known as the windmill bow, because it re-
calls the rosette effect of flyers and sails.
Ribbon gowns are very airy, of wide black
lace insertion, with ovals through which
narrow ribbon is threaded, and these lengths
are set together by wider ribbon of the same
or contrasting color, the whole mounted on
a foundation of silk.
Very pretty jackets and lace skirts are
made of this insertion striped with fine
ribbon, and are inexpensive, the lace five
inches wide, of firm quality and selling at
20 cents yard, with eyelets for five and
seven lines of the narrowest ribbon.
PATTERNS AND CREPEs.
Passee black lace can be put to good use
If the pattern will allow of threading bright
ribbons through 1t or il they can be ap-
pliqued to follow scroll in the design or in
iestoons, key pattern or vandykes. The best
colors for this purpose are moss and veridi-
girls green, bright electric blue, gobelin or
old pink and deep red together Printed
foulards in silk and the fine soft cotton foul
ards, which are even prettier and far more
lasting in beauty, are the choice for garden
party gowns. A rich white India silk
printed with grass sprays and seeds in black
is trimmed with black lace and silver and
Jet vandykes in exquisite effect, the "
shaped neck filled with folds of white silk
muslin, with necklet and cuff bracelets of
Jet and silver beading two inches wide, con-
timing the chemisette and sleeves. These
necklets are much fancied and add a pretty
effect TO simple dresses.
Ordinary open work Jet or beading Of any
Sort in Maltese and geometric patterns, is
used mounted on ribbon or directly on the
muslin or lace. The wired Medici collars
are not so satisfactory as the jet on soft rio
bon, as the wire bends out of shape easily
and catches in lace and muslin.
Printed crepe de chine in delicious
shades, printed with flowers in natural
colors, open the class of high-priced ma
terials which closes with embroidered and
brocaded crepes wrought in the color of the
ground. in contrast of glossy and dull silk
that has the shades of embossed metal. In
delicate pink, cream white, pistache green,
mauve and filmy blues these are the choicest
evening toilets for Newport or the Springs.
How's THIS FOR A TEA GOWN?
An exquisite tea gown is pearl gray Louis
XIV. brocade, bordered by pointed ecru lace,
with full loose front of pink net beaded in
drops with smoked pearls. A pretty dane
ing dress for young lady is white benSa-
line, brocaded in many colored butterflies,
black and flame color, yellow, blue and
black and din blue. Low pointed bodice,
with berthe of dull green silk. with berthe
OF chenille mingled with beaded strands;
kerchief folds and elbow sleeves of white
mousseline chiffon. Another gown is white
India silk printed with pale blue flowers and
striped alternately with blue and red lines;
fchu OF pale old pink mousseline chiffon,
one end carried in q directory frilling in
waves down the right side, butterfly bows in
satin ribbon deeper shade down the front