New-York tribune., 1890-01-27
GLIMPSES OF BRAZIL.
III.
PERNAMBUCO AND IT'S SUBURBS.
CITY WITH FAINT SUGGESTIONS OF VENICE

PernambucO December I.
This town is Brazilian Venice. 1t is not built
upon and over the water, but it is encircled by
harbor and sea and is pierced by broad rivers.
The rivers are spanned by long bridges, substan-
tial and useful rather than beautiful to the eye.
The roadways between the bridges are lined with
shops, and thronged with bustling, noisy popu-
lation From the crest of the bluf to the water S
edge warehouses, churches and public buildings
are flung together in tumble of disorder. White
and gray are the prevailing colors, with roofs of
real Venetian red. There are no marble palaces
facing the rivers and harbor, but there are aspir-
ing archways fronting the bridges; rambling piles
of dingy masonry take on semblance of ala
baster against the murky clouds with which the
horizon here is constantly banked; and the archl-
lecture poor and shabby as it is, has elements OF
picturesoueness If the Venetian illusion cher
ished by the Brazillans here has had the effect of
inducing them to tone down the colors of their
houses and warehouses, and to multiply private
gardens, it has served the excellent purpose Of
imparting beauty 10 the town. Pernambuco Is
the handsomest and most attractive city on the
coast with the single exception Of Rio
The harbor is formed by natural breakwater.
The coral reef has been built by submarine en-
gineers, unconscious of their Skill on lines par
NN'NNA
the breakers had undermined It, masonry has been
added. but the main line of the reef has not re
quired repairing. Rising few feet above the
water at high tide, il is a barrier constructed
with almost mathematical precision and regu-
larity Human engineers could hardly have built
a breakwater that would have offered greater pro-
lection against the ocean. Behind it vessels of
all nations anchor in absolute security Against
it the breakers are always beating with low,
melodious roar The harbor is neither long nor
wide. but it has sufficient depth of water for yes
sells of the largest draught. The entrance
10 il is harrow, and so sharp turn
has to be made by steamers, with hardly
more than ships length for making II,
that daylight and high water are required for
prudent navigation. But when once anchored
opposite the main landing, with its clump Of
tropical trees, steamers are in a haven winch IS
at once secure and picturesque. Above the har-
bor-mouth, with intervening stretches of beach,
is the old suburb of Olinda, with its high bluffs
ruined cathedral and dcsOlated gardens Closer
at hand, but occupying an area of ten miles in
rambling and disorGerly construction, lies Per
rambuco, with population of 100000, its Gaunt
towers, blue domeS crmnbling white facadeS and
tiled roofs cleaning with subducd radiance in the
sunlight.
The streets of Pernambuco not only well
paved as arr these Of nearly all Brazilian coast
towns hut also well lighted at night. So short
are the spaces between street lamps and 50 lavish
is the distribution of of illumination in the
Sparsely settled suburbs that suspicion is aroused
that some enterpriSing corporation has secured
from corrupt officials unlimited privileges Of
lighting the city without reference to cost The
streets are clean-a fact that in tropical eli
70
of local government. The population moreover,
is clothed. The negroes are not halfnaked as
they are in Para and Maranhao The children in
the negro quarter are not turned into tie streets
without shred of cotton to hide their naked
ness The boatncn by the riverside, the team
sters driving oxen in the Toadways, the muleteers
with their heavily laden baskets, the fruitvcnders
selling overripe maugOcs and sweetmcats on the
etTeet-corners the erect scrving-women carrying
burdens on their turbaned heads, are all deccntly
if cheapy dressed There are thrOngs Of every
hue between ebony black and the palest white
constantly in motion across the bridges ana
through the main thorOughfarcS. There are dry
goods stores of considerable preenslOns and book
stalls where French and Portuguese bindings are
displayed on the shelves. There are signs OF
activity animation, hustle and excitement every
where In the best residence quarter there are evil
dences OF refinement as well domestic comfort.
The houses are large and airy and connected
with them are cool and shady gardens. where
families can live ont OF doors in the secluslon
guaranteed by high stone walls These gardens
are not always well kept; untdincss. shiiilcss-
ness and negligence being screened from puhhc
notice by barriers of solid masonry; but refresh
ing glimpseS are caught of parterreS Of scarlet
and yellow flowers, tiled walks under mangoes,
palms and cocOanuts, and shaded corners over
grown with vines and ldNuriant cIeepcrs. Ihc
tIng tie SIDES OF tie houses Is oi better qud!-
ity and design than any have previously seen
in Brazilian coast towns, and, while painted
plaster is everywhere seen, there Is no rOtous
blaze OF cOOrs. PernamDuc0 has one modern
structure-a theatre OF French design, with cAasie
and beautiful lines; but us churches, hospitals
provincial buildings and Government Ohccs are
not Impressive The cathedral IS dlngy ana
shabby pile OF masonry, with mcIetnclouS elects
OF gilt ornanentatiOns. The Roman Churcn does
not teach sweetness and light IN It's arcAItecturc
here. Everything that is melancholy. dark and
leactionary is inspired by its sOnbre churches and
TnOnasteries fast crumbllns into decay Ihe
churches impress the traveller as tOmbs of dead
religion rather than temples Of living faith
The priests, too look like whitcd sepulchres as
passes them in the streets. The Roman
Church is seen at It's worst here in Brazil.
There are several lines Of open cars drawn by
mules or oxen. aud through the outskirts Of
ire town a narrow-gauge railway runs 10 the old
suburb OF Oinda. | received my first impressions
of the Brazilian railway system from this Giminu-
tive road There was more cOmmOton caused by
the starting Of a train of four or five little cars
for journey of perhaps five miles than would
he caused by the dispatching OF dozen limited
express trains from the Grand Central Depot IN
New-York. Whistles shrieled for five minutes ;
hand-bclS were rung on the platforms; OIIcIais
shonted themselves hOarse, and at last the train
started on its triumphant career. The cars were
hardly more than cabs, and the engine was toy
that made up in noise for what II lacked in
power. At every eighth Of a mile there was
halt at station, where the officials seemed 10 be
labOring under suppressed excitement. For tho
journey two tickets had been purchased and each
was taken up in turn by the conductor-a mulattO
in official blue, with an air Of rigid scrutiny.
Books were pcddlcd in the ears for this prolonged
journey Of five miles: and not without reason,
FOR the schedule time from Pcnambuco to Olinda
was more than half an hour The flight of tho
train was watched with feelings OF awe by tina
natives all along the route, every window and
doorway having occupants the engine with its