The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

old gowns Just referred to. Through every
Of definite purpose but many OF the new ones
/ are put together in such haphazard, distracted
designs as to defy all attempts to find clue to
Velvet sleeves have fallen from the pinnacle
| OF glory They ran the race with such fury
OF fashion and had SO many followers of
d014 anG TGh s% s GGn that
! are now the correct thing, very loose at the
elbows and pulled very high on the shoulders.
| TO be materially reduced very presently. Tho
Princess OF Wales and her daughters have
even When they aged most violently, The
conservative Princess rarely adopts the eY-
never mised into the error of mlstak ing
! anything for genuine style when 1t exists sim
ny BECAUSE the ssm at tb wI}st hat tbnS
are provided with several buttons, which have
to lie uniastened IN order TO permit the gloves
more than three buttons are indeed uncom-
! Portable beneath them, ard tho one-hutton
Affairs, ugly as they are. arc quite sufficient in
! length. If tho sleeve continues to grow 1t will
| obviate the necessity OF gloves altogether, as
did those of our medieval ancestreS.es when
lids snortnd un4isturbod unon the hilsides.
! This old time sleeve was made with deep
| pointed Gull which. when The rroprtetress was
/ Ut homo. was turned back toward tho shout
DER when she walked abroad t the TH was
! The photographers who wero wont to support
thor families by ridiculinG the strap ut tho
/ shoulder that did duty for the sleeve OF even
| Ing dresses. and the skin-tight coat sleeve of
the street gown, Will presently turn their at
! importance in rank. broader than the petticoat.
about tho upper arm. with its depredntory cuif
| preying upon the wrist
Bodices continue to grow moro confusing ms
to motive and lashonlnE. All are draped in u
! folds from the left shoulder others smooth
across the bust md slightly, drared below il;
and snugIy bTttoncd bodice, which makes the
! intricate hidden iastenings possible in unus-
reveal rather than conceal the lines OF the
| figure. On" Of the details which. uEimrortant
! in itself decides to tie expert wheth u gown
is of this seasons make or not, is that the back
OF the skirt is almost Invariably hooked up
gron the basque. In that, to the initiated. the
date is told IN plainly as marks on china re-
veal TO the expert lis value.
The chemse,te is another novelty character
istc Of the senron For few inches below
the neck there is M interval Of gathered silk,
or lisse over, silk. upon which the dress proper
ci her sleeve. the whole calculated to repre-
sent an umderdress. which appears at the neck
hec.ssitaod 10y the increased size OF the
upper arm. in Imitation OF the, ancient slash
into caricatures OF their genuine picturesque
ne=s by people devoid OF artistic feeling.
Felix is introducing again the once-popular
Spanish lace, and a recent creation Of his has
n skirt OF piece lace with wide bands al the
ing could be simpler than the skirt with its
81 aight folds and slight iulness plated in, a
bodice makes up in 81 endor for the, petticoatS
simplicity, The back was, entirely covered
which formed Il handsome belt in front Tho
front OF the bodice was OF lace. arranged in
yofe GHf the E
uuoise and gold material
The smart girl in London is wearing tartan
coat. and occasionally one secs nlucky maiden
in a skirt OF the most brilliant description of
this Startling check and natty green High
lander's Jacket.
For dancing. skirts are cut to Just touch the
foot in front. For evening parties the favorIe
materials are bright taffetas, crepe. tulle and
len fabrics are admissible Simplicity rules
supreme. especially in girls dresses. and what
naa he c SIX sks are In
and at the sides, with Empire flutes in the
back and quilting at the bottom made Of
closely; and only tplle. Of, the lightest Kind is
broidered with garlands Of flowers, Greek pat;
terms OF ribbon running through embroidered
up with true-lovers' Knots made Of ribbon en-
twined in scrolls OF flowers Net skirts IRE
rows 1s'> OF floss silks in colors: Bodies OF
course RECALL the decoration Of TIE re skirt t9 b
high shouldered pufflngs increased by the ad-
dition of hyaway bows or fan plaitngs OF lace
standing up like wings.
Flowers in loose sprays or trailing earands
have quite gone out even the poSy OF fresh
blossoms on the corsaRe having fallen into dis
repute. When used for evening gowns. it is in
the conventional border decoration. with rows
the fashionable ruchinR and single blossoms
introduced. into the embroidered garlands OF
the draneries. The toilets worn mt the matt
noes -dansantes are made three-Guarters high
or open in point ia front. with sleeves reach
parent materials like mousseline do sole.
china CIR pc or silk net and sometimes light
Godices. loose on the. shoulders, and sashes
Neilings are sold with Rarlands OF flowers
woven or embroidered upon it. or borders OF
simply with frilled plating Of lsse about tho
low neck. extending in Iabot in front and with
skirts draped in festoons by folds plated up
on the hips.
Sashes are worn, universally in endless
variety. broad ribbon tied in a bow at the
back u round belt fastened at the side by
rosette from which dangle single ends of rib.
the point o. q girdle to be carried to the back:
folds below he waist and knotted without bows
with their frinGei ends falling nearly to the
shade. Black sashes, especially in velvet, give
"a little frenchy air to light dresses and relieve
their monotony. but ordinarily this detail OF
matching the material itself or one Of the
delicate tntS in the embroidery.
There is great Juror for black silks. satins
and fouards broGGaded or printed in bright
the prime 'ayorite. and some o! the, prettiest,
most stylish costumes are made of black silk
figured with pink eglautine or daisies hya-
cinth bulbs or apple blossoms The gown j. II
simple affair. made with II plain gathered skirt
and bodice and full sleeves. a little back
spencer Jacket is buttoncd over it, and black
lace hat wrcathed with pink flowers completes
the danny toilet.
The distinguishing feature OF all dresses,
wi ether tailor made or otherwise Is the plain
ness OF the skirt. whose necessary pialts and
iulness are arranged TO lie as closely and
plainly rs possible. Tweed walking dresses have
one large box peat forming tho entire front.
with TWO smaller ones on either side. the back
being mounted in gathers or fiat box pleats
One OF the newest and smartest skirts has one
perfectly plain width Of cloth forming one side
and the front, in the semblance OF an apron
folded simply round the figure and held up by
Two large buttons placed Just Glow tho wal IA
little to the left. The rest OF the skirt falls
in full folds and tho bodice, like all bodlcess
very dressy gray tweed, recently designed.