New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-10-19

| '"S ANnofel guest OF that dinner.
as s asy y sser hsss IN
mas oeHn received. After dining at ladies' dinner
oase that you Leave ySlts care tie ,. .as
s:G or By w; r. Ss. I've 8: a IT,:
IN Ehglsnd. this custom Is dying out Tor men
would here compare society to series Of In
terseetng circles; each one Is eirce Of its own.
snera sose. sa'f M. n Dessps a. large bali
No evidence Of their being received In the
smaller eirclsa Whss the French call the PETIT
n.s%rs sHSd :oSssy X sSe 70 S. ss
elusive houses, should be sufioient evidence 70
you That he or she b received eyerywner. and 81 Il
= gssa reason Tor *
w ~s, you man ans0 s1e sscp g
DO not Sc msied BY sas, for there is nothing more
ns q 81 sas m sa i 1ns
lions Why" said be. my dinner Il home is
sueiently good an called out wisn .t ny
Go.h 81 Us COMPELLED 70 eon our S be witS wbo%
A fanily wRose members are not particularly In
teresting to US. Men with whom you are only
club and not insct them on your family.
Twenty years ago there were not over three
Chef: in private f.n ses IN 1n cry shsn
Ing a first.class chef or famous Gordon beu., In
the last six years Swedish Women cooks s have
supposed ft to Be- better than chefs No woman in
my opinion. can give az finished \ dinner Is .
man. There is always something IN the dinner
Italian opera-there is finish TO the Italian that
the Germans can never get. But Swedish cooks
deserve special mention they are really wonder
| ful-clsanllness itself. That is where the French
chef fails. He must have solutions tracking his
very footsteps to keep things clean, while the
| Swedish woman does her work without making
| dirt These women get nearly as large wages as
the men-S6o a month and scullion maid. What
. contrast TO living In France | had TIE best
chef in Pau in 1855 for S25, and the scullion re-
| ceived SO a month.
The question is often asked What is the differ
ence in expense to a household between chef or
a woman cook1 This question is only learned by
experience which teaches me that With woman woman
woman cook. say. SIS with chef. Slo5. This
does not include entertaining For dinner Of
| twelve or fourteen ones marketing is easily sixty
| dollars. without the foie gras or fruit AN Al
chefs wages Is 500 month; he takes 10 per
cent commission, on the eutcheI, grocer oaker
| he gets it indirectly In other words, besides his
| wages, he counts on these commissions speak
now Of the ablest and best; Others not quite so
capable take per cent
| Always remember that the Frenchman is a
creature Of impulses and works for two things,
| glory and money. An everyday dinner wearies
him but dinner Hiye special sh dnner b on tins as
custom some have of calling in and employing q
chef to cook them special dinner is correct: II
90 Or n your health It Is good plan to know
of an artist" whom you can employ on special
occasions, with the express agreemen; that ne
make the purchases for these gentry Like to make
| little economic, which always benefits them;
selves, and such economic gives you poor material
| for him to work upon, instead OF good
How often have l heard q hostess boast, .
never give any attention to the details OF my din
ner, simply tell my butler how many people we
are to have" In nine cases out Of ten this Is
Who has always given the best dinners In Paris
Duchess Of Sutherland, the Queens friend. when
sonally herself. I daily comment to my cook on
| the performance OF the previous day. :, No one,
| especially in this country, can accomplish great
results without giving time ana attention 70 shes
in his work unless he receives prais. and crit-
csm +: but above all things, you must know how
| his work when good, and condemn it when bad,
| he improves and gives you something OF value
Now let us treat Of dinners as given before the
introduction Of chefs, and still preferred by the
| majority Of people.
The best talent with poor material may give
fair dinner but if the material is poor the dinner
will evidence il For forty years have alTsys
| butcher, letting him know that knew as much
| if not more than be did. ,
In selecting your shin Of beet, remember that
choosing FISH, look at their glls, which should be
See YOUR fllet cut with the fat we'll marbled.
out from young beef. Sweetbreads come In pairs :
| one fine. one Inferior Pay an extra price, and
| get your butcher to cut them apart and give you
| the two thin throat breads to sell at q reduced
price.
In poultry there are two kinds Of fat, yellow
| and white. Fowls fed on rice have white fat !:
| those on corn meal. yellow fat. By the feet Of
| the bird you can tell It's age.
The blsok and red feathered fowls are always
preferred. Never take gray feathered bird
Look at the head of the canvasback and the
redhead; see them together. and then you will
readily see the birds to pick l. E., the canvasbaok
! Weigh in your hand each snipe or woodcock the
In buying terrapin, look at each one, and see II
they are the simon-pure diarond-baok Chesa-
peakes.
In choosing your saddle of mutton, take the
| shortlegged ones, the meat coming we'll down the
| leg, nearly reaching the foot; . short, thick,
stubby little tail! must have the look Of the pure
SOuthdown, with black kgs and feet TO-, .,,
| the best, Muscats of Alexandria.
Psrch and grind your coffee the day yUu drink
it, =, Always buy green c .S,,. -. I. t.;.
| eras. generally given one to each guest. Always
fave an entire foe gras, be it large or small, for
| in this way you are apt TO get Old f0le gris mus
| worked up.
| Always buy your foie grss from an A house.
never from the butcher or fruiterer.
| | here give as a recollection OF the past the
MENU OF AN oLDFA SEF soVTnLRS DIN
Terrapn soup and oyster Soup. or Mock Turtle Soup.
soft. Shell or CylindrcalnOsc Turtle. .
Boiled fresh-water Trout snown with Us at the Norm
as Chubl
soS shS , stpe5 ys ane anes Eoa Pea
Boiled southern Hum
Esoaoped Ovstcrs. MaccarUni With cheese. PrAwn Pie.
Crabs stuffed in shell
Roast Ducks. haunch of Venison
Dessert.
Plum Pudding MInce Pies. TriGe.. Floating Island.
Blanc Mango. Jelly.
Ice Cream
This turtle is only found In the ditches OF ne
rice fields and Is the most valued deicacy 81 the
snth IN is too delicate t. tanspOrt T. the North.