The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-10-05

Several costumes exhibited Uithia the week
have shown neutral tinted cloths or silks,
with short trains, and ZouaveS made with
Medici collars and edged with little gold
and silver balls. 1t is probable that as the
season advances these Eastern garnltures
will be chosen for the skirt papels of smart
dresses, for the fronts of DOdices and for
cuffs and collars.
A Paris house has been making some pretty
and simple costumes for the Queen of Rou-
mania Carmen SYLVIA, who. like the lads
from the land OF the Sphinx, has spent some
time of late in Western Europe travelling
the time having come when Queens are sup
posed to walk like other peOple-in a fawn-
colored cloth made with medium length
Louis XIV jacket opening on full front in
red silk. An elaborate embroidery in jet
covers the lapelS, the sleeves from shoulder
to waist ard the pockets. The fourreau
skirt is draped slightly over the hips, and,
Queens being able TO afford n little more
common sense than tho average PariSienne
Of this autumn of 1890, clears the ground
well all around. The hat which goes with
this costume is fawn-colored felt with
brim of rough beaver and trimmings of rib
bons and long plumcS.
a second suit combines a tailor-mad
jacket Of pearl gray ladies' clCth with four
reau skirt, blouse of white silk and plated
bib of embroidered muslin. Delicate gold
thread of embroidery on the left side of the
skirt falls like trail of flowers or a chate-
lame. An evening dress is of a soft, yellow
crepe de chine. The skirt is plain in front,
with double ruihe about the bottom. All
the fulnesS is thrown to the back which has
a SHIRT train. The bodice is low, draped
slightly with yellow mousseline de sole and
trimmed with ropes OF yellow roses, which
hang in long ends, like a sash, behind. An
other evening dress is of Water-green SATIN
over which is draped black lace of the most
costly description. antique and supplied from
h.. rfr ha ha LIT md
sleeves are of gold-colored brocadp, while
the low, gathered ehenlsette matches the
skirt
TO the taste of many the prettiest of the
frOckS has bodice Of plain apricot silk
with high-shoudrr sleeves embroidered in
silver and gold. There are braces of pink
silk which fasten under rosettes at the
waist, and which lift the front of the skirt
in simple but quite original drapereS. The
skilt is in white silk, brocaded in pink and
silver, and encircled by two sets of four cir
cnlar rows of rich gold braid.
Spending a couple of days in Brussels last
week ! happened to see in that gay little
Paris one of the finest pieces of lace finished
in some time by its patient work
women. The delicate web was ordered for
the skirt of n dress for the marriage tros-
seau of the daughter Of rich Belgian mer-
chant. 1t was long time in making-the
bride must be by this time well out of the
honeymoon-and the commission was re-
voked, but the work went on, and the lace
when finished was put for day or two on
exhibition. 1t is forty inches wide and has
a length of several yards. The design Is of
roses with exquisite foliage and raised
petals, the whole so rich that tie eye of
woman cannot look on it without coveting.
The flowers form a deep border in wide,
shallow scallops at the bottom. and in
looser, less formal pattern over the body of
the material Each rose is fully worked out
as to its many petals, which stand up from
the surface with wonderful perfection. The
rose foliage is matches in the cObweb-like
daintinesS of its veinins and tracery.
Brussels lace costs less than it did formerly
because the flowers or "spriss" are now
sewn on a ground of tulle instead of one
made by hand. This cheapening has not
benefited the designs, but in spite of it much
of the new lace, both that made with the
bobbins. feurs en- plat and that made
with the needle, fleurs en- point is very
beautiful. The love of fine laces is some
thing which increases constantly and which
deserves encouragement, because piece Of