, 1890-08-07
Ihe Career of @ Woman Hpec ulator
Pretty Costumes for tho
Races.

Il
The words thou Dreath'st to conscience
paw;
A mother will not brook such jests--
What dost thou sayr
u, 0 Life, o Death
Which one has served most cruelty
This aching heart? The lev breath,
or transient biding but to flee,
q Lille, o DEATH
1t must not be-
| my mothers heart so closely twined
About thine own, will bleed ii free
IL maze he prop from cinginB vine
1t must not bel
| God. how writhc!
rms torturing grief has left lips dry
And bosom wrackod. The mowers
scythe
Has clipped my fioweri hell reigns in
God, how l writhe!
My one sweet child
That brought he sunlight to my heart
I'M all Its dark. drear floor was tiled
Win golden promise; seest my night,
My child, my child?
Dressmakers' bills and the cnst of
the average wardrobe would be
materially lessened by the OBJ
servance Of n few simple rules, says
a writer In the Fashion Bazaar.
Never buy fabric that is part cot
ton or none. For many years silk
and wool mixtures were liable to
wrinkle, and there are now in the
l M of ,t.lNt.I, ,,.tn lAaa
their beauty after n few hours wear
in n damp atmosphere. But the
finest grades of silkwarp Henrietta
cloth, and u few handsome fabrics
of this class, are proof against this
misfortune, aud will last and look
well for many seasons. To select
such goods Is the first law of eco
nomical dressing. TheI next in I'M
portance is the choice of rather
plain conservative style and one
which will not go out of date for
some years. This II IL easy to do, as
fairly straight draperies, plain
waists, not too tight coat sleeves,
and plain, straight collars are
in the make up of good
dresses, and will no doubt continue
To remain necessities for long time
to come. Too little importance is
attached to having dresses carefully
made instead of being as is often
the case, merely basted together.
Garments should be sewed with
strong cotton thread, not with silk
thread, unless in parts where the
stitches are to he seen. 1t is con-
sidered much easier to sew with silk
than with cotton, therefore many
seamstresses and dressmakers per
sist in using it despite the fact that
the work is much more liable to slip
and drag out of place.
With the facts kept constantly in
mind that to dress well and
economically one must buy good
goods of dark or durable colors,
select plain, inconspicuous styles,
and have them made up with the
utmost care as to reliability of work
manship, the average woman may
accumulate moderate stock of
really elegant and becoming gar
ments, and will be comparatively
| free from the vexations and annoy
ances which ever beset the searcher
after novelties and extremes in
fashions. Fastidious women are
selecting the softest, finest fabrics,
many of them so delicate as to be
almost transparent.
x*#
The popularity of the sailor hat
increases as the season advances.
This simple, unpretending shape is
the least trying of any of the styles
now in vogue. Few women have
the regularity of features to wear a
hat with "a curved, and dented, and
otherwise mutilated brim with
aplonb, The severity of a straight
Hat brim is often the secret of the
becomingness of hat. New sailors
of Milan braid with open-work Ne
apolitan crowns, and vice versa, are
trimmed with silk scarfs and ostrich
feather tips. Other novelties show
straw crowns with brims of shirred
tulle or crepe lisse a sailor of pale
primrose yellow crepe, shirred on
fine gold wire on both brim and
crown, Is garnitured with black
lace, tulle loops, and five
tiny blackbirds. Another yellow
hat is trimmed with black ostrich
tips, II yellow tulle scarf, and u large
cut-jet ladybird, with narrow,
pointed wings outstretched. a
crealn-white China crepe sailor hat
has very narrow finish of pointed
silk lace at the edge. TIE hat is
trimmed at the back, the trimming
consisting of white clover blossoms
set into cluster OF pale-green oats,
the loose flowers and grecnery lying
upon u large knot of cream-white
grenadlne ribbon loops striped with
satin. A gray crepe hat is trimmed
with wreath of ofdusty-millerl leaves,
intertwined with half-open pale pink
daisy buds. A pretty sailor of hello
trope straw, faced with violet velvet,
is crowned with a full diadem
wreath of lilac chrysanthemums
shading from the faintest to the
deepest colors.
An askcw seam will never appear,
says the Woman's Home Journal, if
the garment il properly cut and
basted One can not cut too care
fully; and use long, sharp scissors to
keep even edges. Always hold bias
seams toward you, and commence ut
the top TO baste, first putting pins in
at shon distances to keep the ma
terial straight. Do not cut out the
darls of n BASQUE until Ii il fitted.