The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-07-14
! ! Men SHOULD DRESS,
= Advice From the Other Side
1br Gentlemen Who Would
bs Fashionable.
qg Prince George OF Wales
OEeeses, and tho Wardrobe
S Of Fife.
nabls Hints taken From London Men
I About Town Concsrnipg the Latest
Styles.

d t4peoial Correspondence of TIE INDEpENDESr.l
s# lsouDoM, June SO.-N is the London
mAn who sets the fashion for masculine
garments all over the world, and there is
no doubt that the faultlessly dressed Eng
Ish clubman is as near perfection in re-
gard TO ct, material and choice of colors as
. man can attain in the matter-of-fact gar
monts of the present day. But there is
wide difference in the appearance of the
fashionable man of the West end, who may
be the son of nobleman or an officer of
ths guards, and tbs fashionable man of the
city, who may be a stockholders clerk,
earning SO week, or q 6shmonger's ac-
oountant at Billingsgate. market. Both
men may get their clothes Ct the same
denotes the difference Of rank between the
two as surely sc If the tradesman had to
wear ackcloth and the aristocrat broad
cloth.
Il is this difference. difficult to describe.
that the American must learn to discover;
not only if he comes to London to get his
clothes for year or two, but also to enable
him to tell at glance where it is safe
to make an acquaintance and where it is
not.
Of the city swell. The American gentlemen
can have no desire to initiate him outward
ly or inwardly. He can usually be picked
out by the low cut Of his waistcoat, the loud
ness Of his linen and necktie, and the ex-
treme glossiness of his hat and boots. l
worn by the leading English gentlemen of
the day, and the American can follow, or
the reverse, as he chooses.
First, in general way, mans ward
robe should include two black frock coats,
both lined and faced with silk, one of a
corkscrew cloth and the other of rough
surface cloth, to the latter of which an out
side breast pocket can be attached II de-
sired. A frock coat should always be worn
open: trousers of any hue with the frock,
not Prince Albert. are not objectionable;
but man of taste generally devotes HIM
self to subdued shades in grays and brown S
as quiet in pattern and texture as possible.
The boots can be patent leather or the Or
binary leather, according to individual
preference, and overgaiters or ''spats'' are
permissible. A tall hat, of course, the
tendency this spring being in the direction
Of narrow brims. Tan-colored gloves are
correct.
The coat should not be cut quite so high
40 used to be the fashion year or two ago;
but don't let the tailor persuade you into Il
low cut, 80 as to show lot of neck-scarf.
The most becoming coat to all men is the
military tunic buttoned close up to the
throat; therefore it follows that frock coat
must look better cut high with small
lapel. than cut low and bordered with great
flaps.
An idea has somehow been promulgated
In America that the frock coat is no longer
en- rogl6 as 1t used to be; that is entirely
wrong. The frock coat is still the garb Of
ceremony by daylight, and is the absolute
garment for bridegroom and ushers at
morning weddings, and also for afternoon
calls of ceremony. and on every other occa-
sion during the day where the etiquette of
outward appearance has to be preserved.
The cut:away GOAT. however, is very popu-
day or two ago met the Prince of Wales
walking in Paris. and ! noticed that his
cnt-away was buttoned high at the breast
two buttons only. It was made of melton
cloth with black jet buttons. the waistcoa,
matching. and the trousers OF dark drab
color. His royal highness wore drab over
CATERS over his patent leather half-boots
and danRled tan-colored gloves in his be-
rlnged hands.
Prince George of Wales is the real dandy
with his simple good taste he is not set.
ting the present fashion for men. He and
the Duke of Fife dress alike, and the duk
c6od-naturedly showed me his things witt
tao fond of initiating the loud style of on
sXfries, with your bright-hued neckties an,
Navy check tweeds." The duke has abou
qdozen suits in constant use, and he neve
wears tho same clothes twice in the sam
week. His trousers are on shelves marke,
Monday, Tuesday, and 80 on to the end o
~ week, and they are carefully pressed b.
hte valet before being put on, 80 as to g
r1d Of the crease of which Berry Evande
Wall, king Of the New York dudes, is 9
proud. There is not a single suit of a lou
check, nor are there any Of the tweeds c
sasges ont otherwise than on the sack pril
ciple With patch pockets. The trousers al
Stot, but braoed I we'll i1 above the heel. "
.TakinR the suits a. they came, wa
shown three liRhtish tweed SUITS one dar
Known tweed, one blue flannel, one blac
slfRe. one melton cut-a-way. twp froc
complete wardrobe of man of wealth
rank and fashion, as the Duke of Fife ca
Undoubtedly claim to be. OF course thel
we're riding trousers and frock coats an
Well a. kniokerbockers for deer.stalkin,
and half dozen uniforms. The dres
coats were both made with the collars Q
the shawl pattern.
In . general way have CLEANED the 70
lowing lately from noticing carefully IL
attire Of members of the leading clubs, an
present these notes for the careful consis
Grafton of every American gentleman pal
ticular in regard to his clothes.
Brown hats are vulgar. The only "darby
worn now must be black and of moderat
bTim. Sack dress coats are only worn by
man in his own house when entertainin
nen, never when ladies are among Il
guests. It is permissible at theatre in I'll
Of vulgarity to wear'a sack dress coat at
ball.
Dress waistcoats are worn a little lie!
open and are of the same stuff as the Goa
and are usually trimmed with silk core
The shirt should not fit too closely, br
should bulge little.
A dress suit must not be made of broai
cloth; that material is now the entire PROV
erty of walters and undertakers. The cloi
should be of ribbed worsted goods with
dull finish.
The white dress waistcoat has been d,
legated to cockney tops and ver-dress,
s.Arries." One or two very young men
fashion still affect it, bat only as an o
caaional change.
Lavender gloves with or without bla
stitching are still popular.
Ono stud of three in the shirt bose m,
plain white pearl button is in the be at
Taste, or studs composed of real pearls.
The watch chain seems to be becomi
popular again. and il now freely worn wi
evening clothes.
The opera or crush hat has returned
favor. It's convenience can not be forge
! ten.
4 black silk hat is never worn witohu
Low hatband.
A silver or gold headed cane or umbre
q REGARDED as a vulgarity.
Gloves ago always worn. and light
ulnunn ara uHnnmlaY. MANY VAll.df0110d n