Savannah courier. (Savannah, Tenn.) 1885-1979, 1890-02-13
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
French Cloth Gowns That Have Found
Favor in This Country.

Favor in This Country.
Gowns of ladies' cloth, with waist and
skirt cut bias throughout, are among
the latest Paris importations. The bias
bodice is a round belted waist without
darts or side forms, and without any
fullness except on the right shoulder,
where it is laid in three or four very
scant plaits; it is then hooked on the
shoulder under these plaits, and is fur
Their fastened under the right arm. A
lining fitted with darts is hooked in the
middle of the front in the usual way,
and the bias cloth is then drawn over
this as smoothly as if it were elastic jer-
sey webbing. The bias skirt has been
famiarly used all winter for plaid wool
ems, and consists of merely two bias
breadths of ladies' cloth, hemmed at
the foot, and mounted on a foundation
skirt, with the front and sides nearly
plain at the tip, and all the fullness
massed behind. A model gown from
Worth has pale gray habit cloth for the
bias bodice and skirt, with moderately
large mutton-leg sleeve of black velvet
braided all over with black soutache set
on edge; the high standing collar and
the belt are of Persian GALLON, with
much gold amid its gray figures. The
collar hooks on the right side above the
fastening on the shoulder, and the belt
is fastened under a small bow on the
left side. The braiding on velvet
sleeves is in block designs-blocks two
inches square, made up of circles of
braid alternating with Greek squares,
or else the whole design is of arabesques,
or of waved lines, or small twists or
plaits White, pink and fawn-colored
cloths are made in this style, with gold
or silver belt and collar, and the darker
cloth gowns of plum, blue or green fash
toned in this way are found to be the
lightest weight of any cloth gowns yet
made.
Another new suggestion of Worth's is
the use of velvet stamped with heraldic
designs in combination with ladies'
cloth or with camels hair; thus dark
red velvet has griflins and heraldic
lions stamped in formal rows between
bars of the velvet, while Turquoise blue
or pale green dots are in other bars, and
still others have plumes, crowns or
some quaint armorial device outlined
with white or with gold. This velvet
forms the rather small and not too
high leg-o'-mutton sleeves, and edges
the toreador jacket which is on point
ed cloth bodice of the same dark red
shade. Two bands of the velvet are
placed down the sides of the full
straight skirt of cloth. Still another
caprice is the use of lace and fur to-
gether as trimming of cloth gowns
The lace is the new passementerie
lace of very light cords of black silk il
guipure designs that make excellent
insertions in diagonal rows in the
front of the wool skirt anC
in straight rows around the cuffs
of the bishops sleeves. A blacl
Persian lamb toreador jacket is on the
pointed bodice of a green cloth gowI
trimmed with this lace, and there il
a fiaring collar of the same fur. The
guipure is set on the point of the bodice
like girdle, and there are pending
drops below it in front and back. w,
have already spoken of the fur tassel
of tails worn across the foot and sides o
cloth skirts. These are especially hand
some in brown fur-sable if possible
or else good dark mink tails, held b,
beaded brooches or vandykes on green
brown or plum-colored cloth. The Wis
iting gown of young brunette matrol
is of green cloth with full black moir
sleeves, and inlaid bands of MORE dow,
the sides of the skirts, while the foot O
the front is ornamented with tassels @
Russian sable tails pending from
green and gold beaded border. Tn
green cloth jacket has large sleeves c
black velvet, and Russian collar c
great depth made of imperial sable, TIL
hat has a low crown and projectin
brim, and is of black velvet, trimme
! with black ostrich feathers and sabl
tails.-Harper's Bazaar,