Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1890-02-21
CORRESPONDENCE.
TWO YANKEES ABROAD.
SECOND PART.---PALBSTINE.
JERUSALEM.

dOWs have passed small professions OF MUS
sulmaus, usually with two big flags, red and
green, and tomtoms and drums, going to
the Jaffa gate to receive the pilgrims who
gather in Jerusalem and go thence together
10 the tomb of Moses, Nebo -Mousa, situated
some hours from here, on the way to the
Dead Sea OF course it is Mussuman
legend, but, every year, they have that
solemn pilgrimage during Easter week,
probably to show their people that they also
can compete with the Greek and Latin
solemnites After all the land belongs to
Turkey, the Mussulmans are its masters.
SO pilgrims have come, women with their
bundles over their heads, a ragged multi
tude of many colors and no Christian is
they worship at this pious season.
At / o'clock they start by the nearest
gate, St Stephens descend into the val
ley Of Kedron, along the walls Of Geth-
semane up the sides Of the Mount Of
Olives, on the road to Jericho. The whole
garrison, over 1000 men, is under arms
many soldiers have received new uniforms;
the pasha or governor, with his whole staff
appears, then pilgrims on foot, on donkeys,
a few on horseback, the bugles sound, the
flag bearers surround the large Mahomet
standard, green and black The procession
itself is the least part Of the spectacle. The
whole population of Jerusalem has come out
The women are squatted along the road on
IL -. l.. - II
dreds of parasols of rich colors, the white
sheeted female forms, the children dressed
in their best clothes, all form a spectacle
seen to advantage only on such a spot,
where the ground forms natural amphi-
theatre.
For us we have hurried to be here in due
time, have chosen quarters AS good as pos
sible, brought a stool for our queen. We
bribe the begRars to keep away, We peep
under the parasols Of our neighbors Most
Of them are women with young children
very few are pretty. They are dressed in
red, blue, yellow, wrapped in white sheet
or big silk or satin wrapper, which is most
deceptive. Here comes gay -colored lady,
with red parasol full OF bracelets, looking
like princess; bnt her boots are worn out
and she is as black as the ace of spades
late. 1t is on larger scale the repetition
of our Blidah excursion with much less in
teresting ceremonies Tread over Christmas
in Algeria, published in The Phoenix year.
ago.
We direct our donkeys TO the tents OF
General Lucius Warren and his wife pleas
ant American acquaintance made on the
Nile intelligent people. 1t is a pleasure tc
meet countfymen abroad, they have called OF
us as soon as they reached Jerusalem They
travel with tents dragoman the best
way to see the country. We are in hurry
for We must visit the old walls of Solomon :,
temple, the immense stones which antigua
rians declare to date from his reign, and
attend the Waling OF the Jews Every
Friday the Jews gather here, read aloud
psalms or parts of the Old Testament II
is a worship in the open air, standing, face,
turned towards the wall Ii is also nov
their Passover, and once a year, at thii
time, they put on new clothes Many ar,
elegantly dressed in long flowing robes
Nearly all are Spanish or Polish Jews They
wear round head dress surrounded with
| fur their hair is cut 50 as TO form tw,
liuglets along and before the ears. Tn,
dandies have theirs nicely curled.
For the majority it is evidently habit t,
come here They read their Hebrew Bihl,
with a rapid intonatiOn which indicates ab
-ence of serious attention to its meaning
out some lean against the wall weep anC
sob | see tears coursng down many
cheek, with most evident sincerity. The,
lament the loss of their temple, the misfoB
tunes of their race the whole scene is mos
serious, sad indeed, and made to incite
thousand thoughts They do not look a
poor as | expected ; not servile but thel
move as if they knew they are under
curse. few women are gathered in
corner, One Of them, kneeling, sohs as j
with a broken heart.
To reach the spot We have crossed a mum
her of very dirty, narrow lanes. Ny guild
remarks how many salute me. When W,
leave, a venerable jew salutes me as h
would a brother, so, after ALL there may b.
something Jewish in my appearance Per
haps it is because have a way Of looking
at people. want TO read through them, l.
find their inner thoughts, what they ar
really under the human face-mask. 1t i
the mind, the soul which make the man an,
stamp him.
In the evening, preceded by two Kawas
or consulate guards, with much gold lace
big swords, and heavy long sticks with whic
they strike the ground and open the way,
number Of US go to the Holy Sepulchre +
see the Crucifxion of Jesus We hav
passed through lines of Turkish soldiers
penetrated the crowd and climbed into tn
Calvary. Here they come. red robed choi
boys, black and white monks, the same pro
cession of great and small dignitaries. On
of them carries cross on which is Chris
nailed, bleeding, a crown of thorns on hi
| is 4 ha laA
on the spot where Jesus was nailed on tn
cross. Chanting and praying follow, also
twelve minutes sermon in German The
the procession moves round the pillars, t
the spot where stood the cross. The imag
is set up in the very original hole, then take
down from the cross, the nails removed
also the crown of thorns the arms ar
movable and are laid along the body
which is placed on a sheet on the altal
More chanting, praying, and an eight-mir
utes' sermon in French then down to tn
stone of JUNCTION, the sheeted body laid o
it, the vases of anointment around it, pray
ing, chanting, and twenty minutes sci
mon in Arabic. Hence to the sepulchre.
The crowd is enormous the heat extrem,
have been squeezed to my hearts confer
by the devotees with lighted candles. th
monks and the women, and have enoug
of the sacriegious representation. 1t
not Christianity, it is paganism, middl,
ages mysteries, popular attractions in whc
soul, mind, reason, are equally offended.
leave as soon as the closed doors are r,
opened. Mr.. Kawass brings us home, an
retire after day during which Mussu
mans. Jews, Christians, have formed a SUI
cession of scenes never to be forgotten, MI
after seeing them a poor mortal shouts
What is truth Where is truth
april 9.-The donkeys have been orderC
for = o'clock. II is 8 when we leave Il
city to visit the So called Tombs of Il
Kings, situated a mile northward, beyor
the suburb occupied by handsome modeI
houses, rich mems residences. We find d
object of our visit in quarry. The kee
er's Arab wife has given us candles to e.
plore the tombs excavated in the rock, iii
vaults, with small recesses for each bod
and a huge circular stone rolled TO close Il
common entrance, This tomb was MAJ
for some member of HerOd's family.
ansv ers fully the description of Jesu'
sepulchTe.
We are treated to floral offerings by Il
women; we buy the brass bracelets whi
they wear, others of common white metz
and leave them loaded with kater kayi
(thanks)
We proceed once more to the Protesta
(iolgotha, whose baroness and quietness e
ercise on me a kind of fascination. poi
to our lady the places of interest in the CT
which lies before u.s. May the spot new
be spoiled by church or any mOnumer
IT,. r .a IL. A.av.a