Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-08-24
Her Trip from Florence to Bo.
logna and Comment Thereon.
The Many Respects in Which italian
Cities Are Different from Ours.
A Delightful individuality.
She Visits the Art Galleries and Tells the
Gazette adrrs of Her Observations.
From Boil ogna to Venice.

hNlCEt Juuc we TOOK Wnat might
fairly be called the inside track from
Florence to Bologna. We studied the
country with no superficial eye, but
penetrated to the very heart of Italian
scenery, and assure you it is perfect
fraud-nothing but smoke and cinders
Beautiful glimpses there were between
the tunnels; deep valleys, rounded green
mountains, but only glimpse before
darkness again and another long tedious
perusal of the internal anatomy of the
Apennines.
Bologna is not only the home of the
renowned sausage (Which we saw mott,
but of Raphael's st. Cecilia, and it Is a
quaint old place with an duality of
Its own, as all Italian cities have. 1t is
| this individuality which is continual
and delightful surprise to the American
traveller. Our cities, east, west, north
and south, are all so much alike; we find
MUCH THE SAME PEOPLE
and about the same Industries every
where, but here IN Italy, where each city
represented an independent state, only q
| few hours travel Will take one from
| place having its own schools of art and
architecture, its own history and tradi-
| tions. to a place entirely characteristic
and different in these respects. Imagine
one OF our states in which a dozen differ
ent cities of about the same size, each
representing an entirely distinct history
and industry, so that if you were trans
ported secretly from one to another, you
would know at the first glance just in
| which place you were. That would be
| like Italy.
Bologna is much older place and has
been much more politically important
| than Florence, but it is not now a lively
| place like Florence. 1 has not the in
| flow of tourists 10 keep it awake, and for
| all its broad, handsome streets and
| handsome hotels It Is quiet and sleepy.
| One thing that gives it this effect is that
all the sidewalks run under the upper
| floors of the houses in long, shady ar
cades, or rather the upper stories of the
buildings project out over the sidewalks
and are supported by columns. These
| long rows of high stone arches and pill
lars give the streets very fine air indeed
and neither rain nor hot sun can incom-
| mode the Bolognese. 1t Is all peaceful
and retired as the cloisters of a convent.
The Rue de Rivoli in Paris is arcaded
this way and we have seen more or less
| of it in different places, but Bologna
| seemb 10 D6 dTcbueu Ill over. III the
poor quarters the arcades are poor and
low, AMI wooden posts are used instead
| of stone columns and arches.
NOT A TOWN OR A VILLAGE
in Italy but has its piazza Victoria
Emanuelle and Bologna is particularly
fine, zone of the most interesting town
squares in Italy, (see Baedecker).
Here on the steps of q great, unfinished
church (every place in Italy has its I'M
finished churches, too, left unfinished
for sges) the poor people sit of an even
| ing, watching the bright, sunset colOrs,
and talking softly and sleepily together.
We wandered through the cool arcades
| and looked at the leaning towers without
encountering another tourist, and that
| of itself made Bologna seem especially
| quaint and characteristic. The leaning
| towers are two huge brick atrocities built
in the same irregular little piazza from
| which FIVE streets radiate to the five city
gates. One of the towers is over
| 800 feet high and leans four feet;
the other was purposely built ten feet out
of the perpendicular, but it could not be
| carried higher than l60 feet. They are
absolutely plain and bare and considera-
| bly, uglier than mandatory chimneys.
We found the art gallery almost empty
She is just the loveliest and most woman
ly saint we have seen yet. You doubt
less remember engravings of the picture,
St. Cecilia standing holding her little
baby organ with four other saints
| around. but believe no copies of any
kind ever give one that subtle something
which is the chief charm of original pict-
ures. The soul that the old masters
mixed with their paints was the
REAL CoLoRING
the secret of which seems to be lost now
| adays. photographs from the originals
are geueally more satisfactory than the
copies in oil costing $50 or $50. One of the
incest things we know of Raphael's per-
sonal history was the letter he sent with
this picture of st. Cecilia to Francisco
Francis, the Bolognese artist, and a
friend of Raphael's. This letter re-
quested Francia to repair any damage
the journey might have occasioned the
picture, and then, with the unaffected
modesty which he always showed,
Raphael asked Francia to rectify with
his more experienced hand any fault he
might see in the work. And when the
perfect thing was taken from the box land
st. Cecilia in her long, close-fitting tunio
of yellow, appeared so humanity lovely,
so wrapt in the divine harmonies to
which she listens with dark eyes uplifted;
when Francia saw her, and the St. Paul,
chin in hand, buried in grand thoughts,
and Mary Magdalen listening to the
angel music with childlike delight. and
St. John and st. Augustine with glori-
fed faces-each one so simply natural,
yet so divineiy saintly-then Francia fell
on his knees. He had never painted like
that, the dear good old goldsmith who
had been the artist king OF Bologna, and
he knew it, and loved Raphael none the
less for 1t.
Bologna has famous old university,
said TO have been founded in the Fifth
century. Its law school was particularly
celebrated and students came to 1t from
far and near, so that in 1862 it contained
TEN THOUSAND MEN.
Here the anatomy OF the human frame
was drst taught, and ealvanism was dis
covered here in 1889 by Joseph Galvani.
The most surprising thing about the
university, however, is that il has had
four lady professors IN its faculty. One
of them, Novella d Andrea, was SO
fascinating that the wise old professors
Nf.rr vt.k 10