Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1890-12-28


point of avoiding the sight of one fo
months, nay, years past endeavoring al
ways 10 center our attentions upon wha
was beneath its rim, when compelled
through accidental circumstances to hold
colloouy with is wearer, or, in cases here
no acquaintance made this necessary
turning aside to gaze into some convenient
shop window. We may not always 90 on,
OF our way to avoid meeting a derby, for
unhappily. it is still too frequently en-.
counlered. l say still, for, somehow OF
| late have fancied that the derby seems
slightly on the wane.
But why has this hat been for so long
the fashionable everyday masculine head.
piece? And what did man wear for a bus.
mess hat before it came into vogue? To
the first query know of but one answer,
and that is la Mother Bunch:
''Ssys Aaron to Moses
Let's cut off our noses
Says Moses 10 Aaron
Tis the fashion to wear EN-
To my second inquiry l received reply
upon the evening referred to, from highly
cultivated elderly lady present at the
time, who promptly informed me that
Before N en- wore derbys they wore hats l''
Alas, long suffered derby, where is your
chance after that? After such quenchers
no man who heard it will patronize you
again, to be sure. Much amused, we de.
manded to know something of the that's,
madam mentioned so emphatically.
Why" replied the interesting lady of
the old school, for many years before the
derby became fashionable for EVERYDAY
wear there were two or three STYLES of
plain hats worn, which were less harsh in
character. OF course, the tall silk hat held
first place as dress hat, and although a
stiff construction, requiring to be taken up
gently and handled with care. yet its pedi-
gree is superior to that of the derby, for il
has always been associated with gentlemen
from Its flrst advent, and did not find birth
among horse jockeys. Then its polished
surface certsinly suggests that fastidious
neatness which is supposed to characterize
the dress toilet of gentleman. Along
about 1925 and 1880 the silk hat was worn
IN various shapes. Some were high and
straight, resembling those of the present
time, others retained some resemblance to
the bell-crowrs of earlier days, and others
still more low-crowned, with brims that
curved deeply back and front in such man.
Der as to beetle over the eyes, There was
SO much travelling in stage coaches about
this period that the soft slouched hat was
commonly worn, large brimmed hat,
which has been associated BY Dickens and
other romancers very frequently with the
mysterious or sinister individual who was
usually introduced seated in the darkest
corner of the tavern barroom and who be-
tween tlis hat and his black muffier, en-.
deavored to battle observation as to his
identity.
About 1857 the soft crown of the low
hat became flat and round, the brim slight
ly stitfened and fiat, the whole about the
size and shape of our present straw sailor
hat. Young men wore soft crown of a
half-globe shape, with narrow, curling
brim, which was quite becoming. During
the war time many men, both young and
old, affected the cavalry hat, big, soft felt,
Nearly all of the common hats within the
range OF my memory, had a soft, easy,
comfortable touch about them, and they
did not show shinyness and wear, as
quickly as the derby. However, the soft
felt, with turned-up brim and peaked
crown, which many middle. aged gentle
men have lately adopted, also a certain
light colored, little, lightweight, youthful
sort of hat, worn by the fraternity of
literary Bohemiams in New York, show
that Individuality Of taste is beginning to
assert itself among cur busy gentlemen as
well as among our leisurely ladies'
Ny dear madam, how delightful it is to
have you tell us all this. And while we
are on the subject of masculine fashions, |
wish you would tell US what you think of
the gentlemen's present style of neck.
scarfs as compared with the neck.cloth of
earlier days"
why, the silk and satin scarf of TO-DAY
is, like the silk hat, pretty and neat by
reason of its material and sheen. But It
must always be fresh and new to appear
well. For this reason it is great expense
to gentlemen, for 1t is made over q stiff
N Nd Hot lnr
fabric very soon shows soil or threadbare
glossiness. When the tie was worn. the
single strip of silk might be shaken out,
SIN oothed and folded when removed, and
in this way lasted longer than the made
scarf
II was reading about Beau Brummell the
other day." l remarked, land it seems that
he used to say, give me fine linen and
country washing. suppose that was be-
cause the neck cloth about which the Beau
was SO particular had to be SO carefully
laundried
There is no doubt that the neck-cloth
IN Beau Brummelfs days, when all the
fashion of London were yotaries of AL
mscks, gave those cavaliers much concern.
A pamphlet containing instructions and
Illustrations as to the manner of folding
the starched cambria, etc, was fo1nd upon
many gentleman's dressing table. II
was called Neekcloihiana.' The collars at
that time were standing, with high pointed
corners. The fashion in it's extreme. was
Of course, somewhat absurd one. for If
the collar CHANGED to thrust its corner above
the chin by reason of the freshly starched
'choker,' 1t gave the masculine yissee a
somewhat fierce aspect, unsuited to the
dandy. But there was this good feature
about these ties and collars: They were
capable of wrinkling and sbapino them.
selves to the throat, no matter how rio;iiy
they were first applied. AS the fash,
Byronis omen coIlar COST 49, .Noot.a, anu
ana lis pecuIiar noet;c rels,;an toAeio,n f,is
of INV hnshsnd tnsw R,nmi, Hlsnu
and be declared that he was ,an1.h;na ss,s "e bn,