Telegram-herald., 1890-12-21


a thst - - lcFely 14y, fFoe lhs
NoEss lslr, clay. I'D RI, = 49, 80
barbof. lE has a papaiatiosl ol 90
souls. aoublea every year asfng tbe
bsEEAx add toaFsI seasoa. but ons
fseis thsg tas 8ls ana activity tat
eestie ~ tie ttie place are uhoily
nss, % AZ least & rsfent from that "a
tn@ old BeFthera sxa-xings sho made
ne port their heayea Of pfseiss snd
their retreat foF 0Fgy reTsi 80 feast.
IL yo4 c0ait fehablllsate tbs people.
taks away lhe embieHs ~ kFitisa
rule ffom 40 tbsFs about Port Char.
leltss bulit ~ Cromwell. whore the
Coast tiuards are, Saa 81 sgafn tae
hsEtoT and per wlth puten herring
basses aud ample hreeehsd traders.
every u0oss corner aud cFanuy would
have Is Amsterdam n4yof aGd Rem
brandt Effects. Indeed The marx OF
those sturdy Oh rshsrs aud The traders
upon Lsrslck : 80 uniyefsaI. that one
comes % resent Is present occupancy
- another rare, even though its people
are haspitabl- as the lr.sn sfol'd and
energetic as the English, snd tnTfy
and Cauuy az the Aberdeen >eotehmen
winch = another Fenlarkaol com
poetic.
ATchtecturally. LeTwick j. As odd a
town as you viii md iu all kufope IL
, blfit on the face oI orae, and the
morning sun. when % gets around lar
enough north CD shine AZ all in this re-
e.on. iooks over Bressay Island and
peeps squsrciy INTO Is rough old face.
jumble upOn lumbie u struggles around
TO the southeast aud the northeast for
a good mile, m all manner Of curious
groups aud piles Just as though, upon
4 time, 4 had been leisurely built on
the edge OF the hi.l above, and then the
hiii had gently shook itself and every
thing had quietly slid dOgrSts side, and
rnaliy got comfortably settled, fronts,
rears aud gables, all lnextricably yet
satisfactorily askeN. one recalls Gray's
description OF kendal: ''1hey (the
houses seem as though they had been
dancing country dance and were out.
They stood back 20 back, corner TO cor
ner, sOme up hill, .ome down" But
LerwlcE Is dellciously more so. lt Is up
hili, down bill, and all around itself. Yet
there = some little method IN itall. For
it - all alongshore, and all upon, over,
under and near, delightfully."-
lowing theiyagarous slnuosltes OF the
shore, and a modern street, or road,
that at last was beaten along the top of
the hill, where the more pretentous,
but altogether uninteresting new town
lies. Connecting these two thorough
fares are numerous lanes from three to
seven feet wide, az an angle OF 80 de-
gTees. These, with no end of still mar
rover wynds and closes, give one =
longing for game of c-aad-seek,"
and recall few of the shadovy old
ways at Msyeuce on the Rhine, and
the weird, sunless, silent avenues OF
old Town, in Algiers. Odder than all
else are the old houses, now reaching
To- the waters edge and, in former
times, standing out into and above the
water. The ancient burghers could not
only fish out of their back windows,
but some houses were so constructed
that a yawl-losd of smuggled goods
could, in case OF pursuit, be shot into
convenient openings, and the latter as
instantly closed. Numbers of buildings
had secret apartments, and you may
still find structures, at some distance
from the shore, 10 which spacious sub
terTanean passages lead from the bay.
The simple Dutch traders of the olden
times knew how TO fear God and thrive.
Two of the most interesting, though
somewhat grewsome, objects OF interest
in the little Islands are the Plctish tower
of Mousa. and Fltful Head, of both of
which you have caught gllmpses from
your steamer. The Shetland mainland,
n is general conformation extends
north and south IN "A narrow strip of
land about 20. miles long, and from
three 10 five miles long. with an arm,
perhaps twelve miles long, extending
westward from its center, something in
the form OF n Greek cross, with its cast
ern arm lCpped of. Lorwick and har-
Dor, are located where the eastern arm
would Mt into the socket; and about
midway from Lerwlck to Sumburgh
Head the Islands southern extremity,
on the eastern coast, IS the island of
Mousa. 4 good walker can Journey
from l.erwick 20 Fitfu Head, opposite
Sumburgh Head, seeing the tower OF
Mousa on the way, and return ~ one
day; thus inspecting the southern
nearly One-half OF Shetland, and yet
never stand on a single spot where
either the German or Atlantic ocean
are not visible.
The road 10 Mousa and Fitful Head
traverses the township of Fladdabister.
where you will find nearly all the
''peerie lairds." or little lords, who own
their lands IN freehold, and sulk and
strut IN poverty and IN the pride of
their pure Morse descent, now remain
ing IN Shetland. 4 bOst must be hired
~ Sandlodge, scat oi the shetland
BTuccs, 90 cross the sound TO the utterly
dresry island OF NOusa. The brOch or
tower stands AZ the southeast corner of
The sland, and - remarkable from an
antiquarian standpoint IN being the
largest and finest example OF the olden
PIctlsh towers ct defense now remain
iug n Europe. They are very nuner-
0us iu Northern scotland. and the OK
neys and Scotland. Anderson gives 80
tor ~utler.andshlr - In t3fthncss, 20
in ths orsuevs. and s. In shetland.
The M0usa tower has the appear
auce Of a gray. ragged and gigantic
dice-hor rs bullt Of uncsmeuted stones
ike the great Dun FugGs on the IRISH
Aran Islands. q about iS0 feet .u cir
conference. and 10 IS stlll forty feet
high. The walls, winch are about
htteen feet thiCh, are really dOubiC.
or rather CONSIST Of two COncentglc
circles Of stone ive feet thick, with
A. intervening space Of equal width.
This space. Chambered BY making the
dQcr Of one ser answer for the cellng
Of The next one below. hEht and ar
only bsing al nitted from the opeD
interior. contained al The haTFsck
accommodation the hardy warriors ~
Old. knew how, or cared 60 provide.