Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1890-03-31

Gowns Seen In Paris.
IParis Correspondence of the New York Times.
Madame Ludinart has prepared designs for
two bali dresses, One-called the SNOWFALL
lis made of an underslip of white satin,
completely covered. except the train, with
tulle, tufted by clusters Of wild cherry
blossoms, and the tulle entirely sprinkled
with white jet. The tulle jupe is plain, OF
course, and the satin train very narrow. very
short and plain-just one breadth, plated In
at the waist. The corsage of satin is draped
in tulle and jet, with high epaulets of the
cherry blossoms, with tall, wire mounted,
crystal butterflies. The second evening
dress was of pale mauve satin, with tulle
overdress, fringed withe hyacinths. Bou-
quets of the same retained the soft drapery
as relief to severity. and the gathered, old
fashioned baby waist had deep fringe of
hyacinths clustering only upon the left
shoulder, with dozen bugs of different
sizes and of all sorts of colors.
Next came q dinner dress of silver gray
brocade; that means that the flowers we're
picked out in silver thread. This was
trimmed with ostrich plumes of the same
gray shade, while the sleeves were entirely
made-full, of course, and high-of gray
tulle embroidered heavily in silver. This is
already one point extensively copied at the
Gymnase, as will be seen later.
The second dinner dress was to be of rose
and black faille. The rose train was covered
with black tulle embroidered in jet. The
form of the corsage was entirely new, being
q sort of Swiss belt or corset made of rose
velvet. and above the black jet embroidered
tulIe drepery was laid over rose elk; the
collar was of cut jet made by jeweler.
Madame Ludinart always contrives to intro
duce some artistic touch and novelty. The
fan mounting was also made Of cat jet, and
it was exceedingly beautiful, serving as a
finish to the deep rose plumes. For the
hair madame had prepared three small rose
tips and a jet comb, narrow, bat high and
light. -.4-s .sjeaF9,1aa - ~ . szi'sz''1-.s7
A third dinner and evening inspiration.
for it had two waists-that problematical
necessity-was of white brocade. The front
was embroidered deeply around the edge
with shaded crisees pearls and seed pearls in
the most regularly, exquisitely designed OBJ.
long pattern. These were cut out and filed
in with embroidered tulle over pale green
satin. The low waist was thus draped, and
single natural tea rose and cluster of Par
ma natural violets was to be held on the
shoulder by diamond cluster. The high
neck waist had dream of Medicis collar,
entirely made of sthe shaded and white
pearls; turning over backward, it was laid
in waves. as it were, losing thus the stiff,
stage.li decorurn tedious to the head and
out Of place in the ease of social life.- 50
For every day wear a noisette stuff gown
was to be ornamented with silken net of
black chenille over lining Of rather deep
lettuce green. Another of beige cashmere
work. of silk of all the tints of cashmere
shawl most beautifully selected and blended.
The form of this gown, curious In its strange
simplicity, had sleeves of stitched silver
thread, forming sombre material like an
old armor. The entire effect was bewitch-
ing, and the now celebrated robe of Mile.
Sisos. in the new play at the Gymrase thea
ter, has the same sleeves and the same esprit
in its originality.
The new spring muffs which the madame
is preparing for her pet customers are Of
black velvet, picked OUT in gold spapgles or
winding thread in vermioeili fashion-easy,
pretty work for clsver. tspsring fingers
with either q tuft of plumes, bunch of rib
bon, and flower to suit or contrast with the
dress, or simple bow knot of lace. All the
old grandmother barhes can bs 1tilizsd
charlaingly, ga we'll as those odd bits of lace
lately purchased in Brussels by the dozen
scraps. They are imperfect patterns of re-
jected use.
The latest wrinkle for muf is to make 1t
of natural Suede glove skin, with knot of
black velvet and two cent bunch of vio-
lets. Madame Ludinart had made one from
discarded Suede gloves; but it requires an
muffs she rather rejuvenates by embroider-
ing the fret name in gold letters on black
ribbon, which ties crossways. and fastens
with diamond aud ruby buckle or a fancy
pin. A diamond monogram can be used,
and garter fastenings come in pleasantly and
perhaps more suitably than In their original
purpose.
| lined with quilted silk and perfumed with
the new essence of Houbigant called "Per-
sian lilac" 1t is trifls stronger than the
| famous white heliotrope, but still very dain-
! ty and very costly. Hence its repuss and
| value.
Now to the Gymnase. The famous gown
of Mile. Ssos has a narrow train of hello
| trope velvet, and its effect throws to the
| wind the populsr superstition that the shade
is not good night one. The perfectly plain
/ gray cashmere front ia embroidered In fine,
| Intricate Javanaise design in steel and gold.
| The Ludinart sleeves are made like those de-
scribed above in the heliotrope cashmere
Dress The boarding school or convent dress
| of pretty Depoix Is rather interesting for q
very young girl. Of soft. gray cashmere,
| the yoke and sleeves are of white cashmere,
| and band of this around the edge of the
| undraped skirt forms lining to cut out
| arabesque pattern of the gray. A broad
brimmed gray felt hat was simply tied under
| the chin with white ribbon.
do not fancy the costly robe of Mile.
Demarsy, but, as she is now considered the
prettiest woman in Paris--while not half as
much 60 40 Sybil Sandsreon-sveryth thing she
wears is accepted. It is q yellow orepe de
chine, embroidered around the bottom in
heliotrope shades, sleeves ditto, as also top
of waist. A band of Zi5elein runs around
the edge and makes the dog COLLAR at the
throat. The long train skirt is free from
pucker-that goes without saying.
The sister Of Mile. Demarsy. Mile. Dar-
laud, is much more refined In her dress and
decidedly more original. An Ophelia mauve
satin jupe, embroidered in white jet, has q
narrow train of almond green velvet. The
mauve corssge has sides and epaulets of the
velvet, brilliantly studded with jewels
Around her throat she wears a tight dog COLI
lar, made of five rows of small pearls, sepa-
rated here and there by an establishment of
stones In varied fashion.
The fancy Arlequines dresses were de-
signed by Bsraud, If you please. They are
all of the same design, but they vary in col
or. Sisos' are all white. The short white
satin skirt is cut out in lozenges by white jet
bugles; a ruche of white tulie edges this
iupe. The mans dress coat worn is of white
satin, with white linen shirt, pique vest,
high collar and white cravat, and no sleeves
whatever. Around the neck is boa of
white ostrich plumes, which fastens at the
waist only, the crossed ends falling to the
edge of jupe. Long white gloves and the
Arlequin's white bate.
Ali the actresses wear black silk lace
stockings and satin slippers. On their
heads is the usual black Arlequin hat, with
| a satin mask of contrasting shade fastened
| in front. There are scarlet and black, blue
and black, pink and black, and orange aud
black costumes.
| The men are all In scarlet cloth dress coats
4 HI nhao
black silk stockings and patent leather shoes
Their opera hats while dancing are hung to 9
black ribbon fob and claep, like lady's fan
on the left side. This is q new masculine
whim, and it will be generally adopted te
avoid hat losing and hat smashing. How
| ever, there is no doubt of tha grace of dan.
cling, hat In hand, when man knows how
! to do 1t properly. AS few men do, 1t is wise
| to have invented a side track to composure
and elegance A man should guide his dan
Ger, carry his hat, her fan, smelling bottle
and bouquet; but they never can, and feet