Griggs courier., 1890-02-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NJ
COrdlng, Etc.-Black Wool Gowns.
Il A fashion in princesse gowns is that
OF having the entire front of a different
color and different fabric from that Of
the back, the dividing line being the
shoulder seams and the under-arm
seams, thence down the skirt to the
floor. Brocades, plain satin and lace are
chosen for the front Of such gowns, with
the fashionable bengaline for the slight
~ trained princesse breadths Of the
back; q high Medicis collar and large
gigot sleeves Of brocade add to the dis
tinctive style of the gown. An ele-
CANT model, designed for tall, stately
brunette, has the princesse back
breadths Of black bengaline, with the
fronts and nutton-leg sleeves Of petunia-
colored satin brocadc, opening over an
inner front of plain satin Of the same
petunia shade, on which black Chantilly
lace is draped in soft frills that fall to-
gether from the sides. The brocade is
laid in pleats on each shoulder, then
fitted to the tapering waist, and falls
in fiat half breadths to the floor, while a
full breadth of the plain satin, nearly
covered with lace, forms tie middle Of
the front. The inner collar, fitting the
neck, is of plain satin, while the outer
faring Medicis collar shows brocade in
side when viewed from the front, and
black bengaline outside when seen from
the back. Correspondents who ask
about Frightening black dresses for the
house will find this design full of sug-
gestion. A green velvet gown similarly
made has front of pale yellow China
Grape, and another Of plum-colored vel
vet has pale gray brocade and crepe de
Chine in the front breadths.
French modistes are cording the seams
Of bodices in the old-fashioned way, and
adding something new by covering the
cords with the contrasting fabric with
which the dress is trimmed or that is
used in combination, or of the color of
the figure or stripe. A lampas gown of
pale mauve ground with maize figures
has the seams of the back corded with
maize-colored silk. A Afawn-colored cloth
gown, with seal-skin border wrought
with gold, has gold cloth cording in the
back seams. Very long-waistod dresses
are now seen in Marie Stuart style, and
with the long Henri Trois corsage ex-
tending smoothly over the hips, in di-
rect opposition to the very short Empire
bodices, which, after all, are not really
short, but are given the appearance of
shortness by the wide sash draped upon
them.
Jet as trimming of wool stuffs, of
ladies' cloth, and of corduroy is in great
favor with London dress makers. For
instance, pale blue, reseda, green, or
fawn-colored cloths are employed for the
full vests of dark cloth or camel's-hair
gowns, and two rows of jet tpassementerie
are put down either side of the middle of
the vest, and used also for the high collar
and belt. Then gray corduroy gowns
and the dark ribbed velvets have jet
galloon, with perhaps little gold as q
background. set on the revers, collar,
and cuffs of the bodice, and also in
three or four crescents on the right side
of the pleated skirt, extending from the
belt, in curves, almost as low as the knees.
Large diagonal lines of two widths are
woven in fine black wooden fabrics that
make up prettily when trimmed with
black velvet cut in vandyke points.
The skirt is of the fashionable English
shape, slightly full on the hips, but
straight below, and with most of it's
fulness in the middle of the back. Two
rows of velvet points, each five inches
deep, are set around this skirt near the
foot. The bodice has basque back
slashed into squares below the waist
line, while the front is pointed into a
wide girdle of velvet. The entire front
of the waist is in one piece, which fas-
tens on the left shoulder and under the
left arm; its fulness at The waist is held
in six small pleats-three each side
turned to meet in the middle. The
high collar is of velvet, and the very
tasteful trimming is two rows of velvet
points set straight across the bodice,
the lower row passing just under the
arms, and the uppe; row from sleeve to
sleeve; these points .urn upward. The
very small leg-o'-musk4n sleeves have a
row of the velvet poiAts around the
wrists.-Harper's Bazar.
STORIES OF DIApoNDs.
Riches Gained md Lost by E.spsons Deal.
ing In Precious Gemv.