Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-06-22
from carriages, and if q place is worth
knowing at all, it is worth knowing on

knowing at all it is worth knowing on
| foot.
INDOOR AND OUTDOOR ROME.
But this 10 out-of-door Rome. In
| door Rome is brim-full of beauty and
interest, and as SOON as one begins to be
absorbed in that the whole place takes
on quite a different air. When one
knows that these ugly old churches are
| like caskets of precious marble, and
| glowing with glorious paintings; that in
| yonder square building sits the Moses of
| Michel Angelo, (more like a human in
carnation of the God of the old testament
than a mani and behind that old facade
yonder are the sibyls of Raphael, then
the very outside of things take on new
expression, like the plain face of q friend
| whose rich heart is learned. While
| speaking of outside Rome, especially
| when rather berating it, the Spanish
| steps, and the beautiful, quaint foun-
tains ought to be mentioned. 1t is a
city of fountains, not displays of water
rs is our modern idea of fountains, but
stone tritons blowing up a fine spray
from couches, reclining river gods, with
| water flowing from their urns on which
they lean. nymphs and dolphins holding
vases of water, and there is the great
| throw copper over his shoulders on his
last night in Romt ii he wishes to insure
his return there. This fountain is
drained once a year and the collected
coins given to the beggars. 1t takes up
the whole side of a piazza; colossal
Neptune in his chariot comes riding
gaily out of the side of wall into greaf
basin of water where dolphins are sHfzft-
ing up water and nymphs pSeyfng =,
The Spanish Steps is the centef1of tsr#
strangers quarter and of modern art15&4t'
Rome; here on the magnificent $zde
flights of white stone, which divldey or
unite and divide again, on their way
from the Piazza di Spagna up to the Via
Sistena, the artists models sit arrayed
in the brightest and most correct of Nea-
politan peasant costumes. These cos
tunes are not to be seen in Naples, how
ever; only in remote country regions and
in artists studios.
ROME IS ToRTURING DELIGHT,
if you have only few weeks to spend
here. You look at your Baedecker and
groan aloud, and if anybody lends you
Hare's volumes you think seriously of
taking the early morning train. 1t
would take three months to follow lBae-
decker through Rome in any comfort,
and as for Hare, he will either drive
you clean distracted or he
will persuade you to settle
in Rome for ten or fifteen years. For
those who have only a week or two, let
them beware of either Hare or Baedeck-
er; hire guide, see what they can and
go away in peace, never knowing what
they have not seen.
English people are inclined to make
fun of the rapidity with which the Amer
leans travel, and we have little stories
like this poked into our ears: sc See
here!' said my American companion,
Have l time to see the Vatican mu-
seum?' 'Good gracious, man, it closes
in fifteen minutes, and it will take you
three days to see that museumi' ooh,
we'll, guess quarter of an hour is
enough for me, - and off he went, leav-
ing me with my mouth open.
REMARKABLE CASE.
There is a remarkable case on record,
too, of family who ''did' Rome in
three days. This is the way they man.
aged: The father took all the ruins, the
mother the churches, and the daughter
the art galleries. The wonder is how
anyone ever lived to tell the tale of hay-
ing seen either the art galleries or the
churches in three DAYS.
Here is little summary of things to
be seen:
Thirty churches,
Eleven galleries of painting,
Seven galleries of sculpture,
Fifteen ruins,
Five villas,
Four palaces,
Three museums.
1 know lady who arose at o'olock |
in the morning every day of the month |
she spent in Rome, and she saw 125 |
churches. But twenty-five or thirty is |
all the ordinary tourist INDUCES in. |
Then there is a days excursion on the |
Appian Way and another day at Tivoli, |
and a drive in the Borghese gardens to |
see the king and queen, and the PiDcian |
gardens, and q visit to the graves of |
Keats and Shelley. You really must do |
these things, you know, or you will not |
dare confess you have been in Rome, or
hold up your head when other tourists
are talking. But this is not all; |
there are the shops of Roman
pearls, and Roman gold, and imi-
tations of the ancient Etruscan jewelry.
and photographs and water colors and
studios and casts and Roman silks. and
there is the pope to see. Next time l
will tell you
HOW WE SAW THE POPE,
but meantime let me express our salts
faction with the Pension de Union. Wei
chose it from many others chiefly on az
count of its central situation here on ke1
piazza Monte Cetorlo and we find it thor
oughly satisfactory. 1t is not elegant
nor finely furnished, but it is comforta-
BILE and very moderate. The board Is
excellent, and the people who keep the
house generous and kind hearted.
mention this, for from conversation with L
tourists we gather that good pensioe ~
moderate in price and convenient in sits
uation, is difficult to find IN Rome.
JESSIE c. CHAMBERLAIN.
ssse,
The. rabbish taken from the streets&ef
LQ>3l zbn a aaaits in year to 60, OQG3ns L