New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-03-16
BITS or WOMAN'S TALK.
ARE TRAILING SKIRTS COMING?

The French dresses which have been shown at the
various openings" during the last week are CON
sidera6y longer than any gowns previously exhibited
Even tailor dresses for street have been shown
with demtrain. 1t to be accepted that all
dresses for house wear Will lie on the floor, yet the
prediction that street dresses will sweep the paving
stones be safely regarded as trade fiction tod to
excite sensation and inquiry. There has been rvo-
luton In public taste In the last twenty years since
long dresses the promenade The street
is longer regarded by refined women as the proper
place to display elaborate dress 1t Is rs impossible to
rcvoutlonzc public opinion on this point as it would
be b. Introduce musk again a fashionable perfume.
Tho prototype of the elegant fop of Byrons time, the
French Muscadn,n Is only found in the vicinity
Of Thompson It.. In such dusky quarter street
sweeping gowns may be worn. but not by refined
women on Fnhave. The street gown will remain the
same length IL has been just clearing the ground
Women who walk much find it exceedingly difficult now
to keep their dresses dainty at the bottom. For this
purpose the Of plcatng Of black lawn underneath
the edge. that 1t will not be seen, yet Will protect
the SKIRT IS useful. The duSI be shaken OF after
IL ha, been worn it b, renewed often enough to
keep fresh long the dress The little Dor
der pleating OF silk used generally by the French
drcesmakcr5 is again and IS pretty addition to
the house or street dress. II Is well TO have two
! plcatings made at the time. that
! as one becomes the second one may replace 1t.
| In elaborate dress. The tailor gown IS now
made chiefly Of checked mixed chevotS
| plaids. combined with a plain cloth \ London
! gown Of Fife plaid, in which the golden bars were
woven Of silk. was recently shown. made in com
blna,on with plain blue cloth. The plaid cut on
the bias, rs a part Of nearly all gowns Of check or
| pad material this season. 4 sleeveless Jacket
Of plain blue cloth wa, turned back TO the waist line
IN a rolling collar. displaying bias vest Of plaid.
aud the high glgot sleeves OF plaid. Tn" skirt
~ plaid draped SNOWY effect. disclosing on the
LEFT side a wide panel of bue cloth. slashed in the
centre with plaid lct in a
Rough twccds from the north Of scotland and the
Shetland Island, popular for strong. useful street
and travelling dresses. They sold in regular
cloth widths, fifty four inches. at - - yard.
fashion cloth i, another rough goods. whch has been
largely imported ina Jackets. bat has not been sold
before ihi, season by the yard. 1t Is found
in plain dark shades and natural color'.
or with gay stripe or croS'-bar.
Chcvios arc imported I'm street colors and tho
most delicate purple mixtures strewn with long
eicmmcd vlolcr, These dainty cheviots ar: for
house gown. which deliberately braided with purple
braid and combined with violet colorcd faille intro
duccd a, panel at the let side between two rows Of
bradlne and used IS straps across the 'front.'
There f. usually but steel in the back Of French
drc,sc, This il, placed where the second steel has
been In place Of the first steel stirring strings
4 tiny roll Is added AT the top Of skirts where the
wcarcrs figure requires it. but usually all tournurc
pad, are omitted. There Is tendency 10 conceal the
dart, or 10 N the bodice by Of clusters OF ucks
and In ylrior, ways which do away with tho set dart
seams: these require the skill Of the most perfect
drcs,makcr
one Of the most popular materials for the coming
season IS crepe de- Chine Th, is expected 10 take the
place Of India silk for all elaborate occasions and
for general afternoon wear. 1t Is especially
beautiful IN ardincrc patterns. made over pleatingS
Of point d'csprit yelling colored satin. The now
rainbow stripes. which represent number Of soft
colors delcatcly blended the other seen
ON Paris dresses, and will be used with delicate grayS
and other soft color,, a fronts 10 gowns ana
a, accessory trimmings. CaShmcrcs in pure soft shades
of gray and other delicate tones Of color are made
m for the house in combination with striped satns
TO match. in several tones Of the same color llat
applied trimmings Of c'ru and embroidery ornament
the perpendicular edges II the drpery anu
border the vest and collar and cuffs.
The revival II drapcrics and polonal-c garments
separate from the undcishirt is one Of the predictions
for summer Already a number Of long. plain English
polonai~cs have been made up In this way. This j.
a useful garment In striped India silk over PLAN
silk skirt simply trimmed with three inch pleatins OF
silk around the lower edge The drc,,makcr' who 20
over, late and with their purchases after the
regular opening Of the shops bring over many eN-
elusive novctc, that are not shown thus early ana
IA, ,,ticnation l. that such dr,,sc, Will show moro
rather less drapery although plain elects without
any boulant drapcry now to be "cn cele.'
People are already beginning 10 weary Of the tall
piano lamp Of bras, other metal and low lamp of
fine porcelain /, now preferred \ lamp Of Lockwood
ware. the beautiful unclazcd pottery male at 'in
cinnat seems III into tho color harmony of almost
any well furnished room. These lamps are especially
beautiful In the dark. warm brown co!or,. shaded IN
part o lighter tones. and decorated with trayng mas
tnrtium "A spray of yellow barberry blossoms. or a
cherry boush laden with fruit blossoms. The
ricy Of patterns in this Is very large. two
pieces are made alike. \ lamp of lockwood ware
may cost from $40 to 30.
Merchants who desire to sell only Trustworthy goods
complain that women shoppers far more easily de-
ccvcd by spccious appearances than men. Merchant
alors invariably sell their cloths spongcd To male Gus
toners, but the merchant dealing with lady shoppers
finds that they reject coarse any cloth which has
not the high u,rc put by the steam roller. This
ustrc must be taken oil by "spongng' before ii Is
made up. : the cloth will spot with moisture The
rapid sale Of colorcd Henrietta cloths shows how easily
the average customer OF the dry goods store Is caught
BY outward appearance. The cloths were nothing
more than cashmercs to which high usrc had been
given by the steam roller. When customers complained
that goods spotted the clerk invariably informed
them, with much show. that the goods should have
been spongcd This sponging simply the ls-
ire put on BY the hot roller and reduces the goods
back To "A cashmere. The shopper could have bought
"A cashmere Of the quality which had not been
subjected to the strain Of being passed over
the hot roller. and which She would have
been at no pains expense To have
sponscd yet Henrietta cloths were sold and cashmcrs
were left on the counters The farce went on til
customers began to weary of the novelty of Henrietta
cloths.
Men. as a rule, trust more to the tradcsman than
women and they do not often patronikc shop where
they once have been deceived. The tradc,man fears
and knows he runs the risk OF losing their patronage
II there Is deception The average woman returns TO
tho store where she has paid dear for her bargain
IN be again deceived by printed inducements and
spccious promises she Is forever haunted by the be
lief that In some way She get the better. by her
,hrcwincss of the who la, made the business of
outwitting her u life study.