The Sunday herald and weekly national intelligencer., 1890-10-26

Correspondence of THE SUNDAY HRRALDJ
MUNICH, Oct. S.--We had very smooth pas
sage across the bold Atlantic Searcelya a ripple
rufiled its waters. wonder if IL was In answer
to our prayers to St. Julian' My first love over
this way was Antwerp. Such quaint old
place So unlike anything We had ever seen
narrow streets, narrower sidewalks, doors open
everywhere, and everybody eating, drinking,
and chatting. Such a peasure-loving people
Music, dancing, soldiers marching-in fact, fun
fast and furious. After mass on SUNDAYS every
shop seems to be open, and all are intent on
filling to the brim the cup OF pleasure. some
times wonder, "Do they ever think; are they
ever serious ~
dral. l remember having read somewhere that
Napoleon compared the towers to a piece of
Mechlin lace; and as looked 1 did not wonder.
Its pictures, too Never shall forget them
especially 1.-THE Descent from the Cross,n by
Rubens. One goes and looks, comes away, and
goes again to get another view of the divine
race, with its perfect renuncation. Ones heart
cannot but go up In one great wave Of thank
fulness as we say, "For mel All, for mel'
In St. Andrews Church we saw that wonder
full pulpit by Van H. The figures are Of
wood, but it is life. In st. Jac9ues's, where
Ruoens Is buried, we saw that marvellous crea-
ton-his "Family:' in st. Paul's the famous pic
ture of Calvary" true to life in all its har-
rowing details. We were staying at that time
at the lovely Hotel de Vile, with its wealth of
tapestry of the sixteenth century.
we were at Antwerp one week, and then went
to Brussels, modern city-a bijou Paris. As
in Antwerp, we saw beautiful buildings and
grand galleries of paintings; the Royal Church.
with its satin-seated windows behind which the
Duchess of Flanders drinks in salvation, while
common clay sit on hard chairs The one thing
that pleased me most was the magnificent figure
of Godfrey de Bouillon, glorious knight of the
Crusade. "Ah, thought, ''who would not fol-
low standard borne by such a champion
stay at Brussels of few days only, and
then we went on through Holland At the
hague we saw work of Paul Pattier's and
Rembrandts-"Lesson in Anatomy There
we also saw the first palace The buildings
and grounds were magnificent. The ballroom
is the largest In Europe, and is one mass of hg-
ures and scenes that took ten artists ten wears
to paint. The young Queen does not like this
palace, and therefore will not live in it; but the
old Queen occupied it. while the King lived in
the town.
From the Hague we drove to Schoenhausen. a
watering-place. The beach is very Gne The
glorious old North Sea beats upon it and then
recedes, leaving it like rock We stayed at such
pretty hotel. All the beds were curtained and
SO high that we had to use steps to get in. The
tables were covered with crystal, silver and
huge punches OF flowers in silver dishes. Every-
thing was served in courses, and when dinner
was finished the walters passed cigars and cigar
cites, with silver lighters, to the gentlemen.
Amsterdam was our next stopping-place. It
is sort OF northern Venice, with houses facing
canals. We saw there Rembrandt's celebrated
might Watch" and Doris's Midnight Lesson. -
For the little girls sake we added the attraction
OF the geological gardens and a most wonderful
aquarium. qTna, m. Co., c.,.
write or see that word there will rise before me,
calm, beautiful, serene, the cathedral of ali
cathedrals. No words of mine can paint it's
glory. 1t stands by itself, my queen of queens.
Youh 7eseen the picture, 80 l need not tell you
OF the Xterior; and Of the rest 1 doubt if in all
theWo Id one wields pen that would do justice
to its erfect majesty. The great pillars and
columns with llfe-siZe statues of saints the enor
nous arches and priceless windows, the resplen-
dent great high altar and marvellous tapestry,
make picture that fills ones soul. We were
invited to attend high mass on Sunday morning
Imagine service where two hundred priests
march in the great recessional, where the music,
like a breath from heaven, swells, throbs. and
dies away, only to be succeeded by grander and
more triumphant strains. The deep-toned or
gan, played by master hand, the blazing can
dies, the burning incense, the gorgeous robes
and the great breathing, waiting multitude
seemed to be but foretaste of the crowning
glory OF God. We stood and listened and lis
Tened, and when the gray-haired priest with
lifted hands, blessed and dismissed the people
we went out hushed with great peace within.
There are seven chapels, each one more gorgeous
In paintings and jewels than the last. In the
treasury are gems and Valuables enough to feed
the poor OF Germany. AT nightfal l stole over
once more for a farewell look. Candles were
burning before the figure of the Virgin. The
statue of great st. Christopher with the Blessed
Infant looked down with protecting tenderness
on lesser saints while here and there solitary
Worshipers knelt at their favorite shrines 1 un-
willingly turned my back to it all and passed
out into the night, my heart filled with thoughts
deep and tender.
UP THE RHINE.
Such perfect day, and how had prayed for
1t The Vine-clad hills and ruined castles re-
mind one of that which has been told in song
be fairer?' We pass Bingen, and unconsci-
ously think of Mrs. Norton's beautiful lines
" saw the blue Rhine sweep along.
And saw the sunlight shine
On the vine-clad hills of BinRen
Fair Blngen on the Rhine -
From Schonburg Castle 1oated our own dear
Stars and Stripes. For moment forpnt all