The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-10-19
THERE are undoubtedly a gr!

at some time or other to get mar
ried, consequently the following
g prepared for the ST. Louis Post
Dispatcn, cannot fail to be of the greatest
interest to such persons, as it contains all
the information on the subject
Formerly il was the custom to keep an en-
gagement profound secret until the near
approach of the wedding day. That is now
no longer considered good form in the best
society. : An engagement is now considered
as sacred as the wedding itself, and not to
be broken any more lightly than the mar
riage vows. This is wise, and saves no
doubt many Aeartaches inflicted by coQue'tes.
IL is now the custom to announce the en-
gagement officially at formal dinner party,
given by the family or a near relative of the
hIiie, at which both families are present.
If the fact is not communicated in this
way an Interchange of cOurteSies be
tween tie two families may be con-
summated by means of friendly notes,
the family of the bride taking the initiative.
Since the groom is the sutton, it is the correct
thing for them to announce to his family the
successful termination of his suit and the
engagement of their daughter, to which the
family of the groom respond at once By call
ing upon his fincee and her parents 10 eX-
press in person their pleasure at the rela-
tiOnShip about to exist between them. The
mother Of the prospective bride, or the lady
herself, should then send notes to such of
her intimate friends as she wishes to ac-
quaint with the happy fact and the groom
should IN the same manner acqLalnt his
friends with the fact of his betrOthal Or
he may give dinner party TO his intimate
gentleman friends, at which it is announced,
usually by a married friend. in the shape OF
a toast, the responses to which naturally
~
gratulat0ry visits from their friends are
now in order, aud it becomes the duty of
the bride to take her fance to call upon her
nearest relatives to introduce TO them the
husband OF her choice.
The wedding day having been set, the fair
one sets at once preparing her trousSeau,
which Is more or less elaborate according To
the means or tas' OF the person. The time
has long since passed when a dozen dozens
of everything was provided to lay aside and
grow yellow iand mOlder with age. a dozen
CT two OF each article is now considered the
greatest abundance, and store of house.
hold .i3e1 is added If the young couple pro-
pose to keep house. Just now for lingerie
delicately tinted silk, trimmed with fine
lace, every article matching IN hue even the
corsets and silken hose, are rival candidates
for favor, with the fine linens and mus
Inns with their dainty hand work. Even
black silk, run with pink or yellow ribbons,
IS he'd IN high esteem, and is really very
effective. All of these undergarments
should be marked with the maiden name Of
the bride, and The household linen should
be embi oideIed with fOsses. the patterns
forming the family CIPHER or her own mono
gram. The outer garments are now all
arranged in sets, gowns, shoes, wraps,
paTasols,
HATS AND GLOVES TO MATCH,
And everything is daintily perfumed. The
linens are laid away in sachet bags scented
with the odor most affected by tho fianCe
or Nv ty rod
in the trunk ard scent bags are fastened to
the inner Innings of the pretty gowns.
For the bridal robe, custom from time i'm
memorial has ordained that virginia. white
should be used. OF late years the travelling
dress Is sometimes dOnned for the ccre-
mOny, but it is not in good taste. The we'd
ding dress should be white, no matter how
simple, and should be laid away as SOU
yeilir OF the happiest event OF ones life.
White Satins are traditional, and are, of
course. always in order Poult de sole,
faille Franchise and sole royale are newer.
bat for youthful brides the lighter fabrics,
mOusseiine de sole, India mulls, silk tissues
and crepe de chimes, are prettier. III one can
wear ones mothers Wedding dress 1t IS con-
sideTed the best of all. For brides of great
wealth there are, of course, many elegant
things in flounces of lace, and even the we'd
ding veil may represent a small fortune, but
the simple veil of tulle is more becoming.
Orange blossoms, with the sentiment at
tached, are always de riguenr, but they are
no longer considered indispensable. Lilies
of the valley, white locust blossoms, lilacs,
jessdmiueS and white roses are all great
iayOIites. The length Of The glove which
should be Of undressed kid, is determined by
the fashion Of the sleeves The bridal gown
should OF course be made with train, which
imparts grace and dignity to the wearer.
In this country great latitude is allowed as
TO the cut of the budice, but in France such
a thing as a bridal dress decollete and
without sleeves is ulheard of, and there,
too, orange blossoms are an essen
tial feature of the toilet, wreath of
them confiniug the veil to the hair. This
special feature of the gOwning of a bride
should fall over the face to the knees in
front and to the edge OF the train at the
back, covering but not cOncealng with its
misty folds the face and figure of the
wearer. 1t is not thrown back if a church
ceremony, until after her arrival home
otherwise it is lifted by the maid of honor.
Immediately after the ceremony, and folded
back over her head.
If the marriage is to be with a ring, the
third finger of the glove of the left baud is
ripped inside, so that it can be easily turned
back by the maid of honor at the right
moment for the groom to place the ring
upon the finger.
When the contracting parties belong to the
same social set it is usual for them to con-
suit together and select the usbers, four or
six, according to the number of expected
guests. As the best man is supposed to be
the grOOm's dearest friend he may be mar
ried or single. If there are no bridesmaids
1t IS not uncommon to invite
TWO YOUNG MARRIED MEN
To serve with the ushers. If there are
bridesmaids there should be as many rs
there are usherS, or there may be both Us hers
and grGomsmen, particularly for churc h
wedding; then there should be as many
1t is the duty Of the best man
10 arrange for the carriages, secure
the clergyman and organiSt and in
consultation with the bride arrange
the selections Of music. He also attends to
the railway tickets and telegraphing ahead
secures accommodations along the route it
is proposed to follow. These matters are
all confidential and it is not considered good
form to inquire where the honeymoon will
be spent.
Custom has decreed that dress coat
must not be seen by the light of day. IT,
therefore, the ceremony occurs before Is
o'clock in the afternoon the groom must ap-
pear III cutaW2y coat or a Prince Albert,
with light trousers, pearl-colored tie and
light gloves OF any desirable shade "a
most absurd decree, since the bride appears
in full evening dress, which is no more
admirable by daylight than dress coat.
For an evening wedding, of course the
regulation swallowtail, Satin-lined dress suit
is de rigueur, accompanied by a lOw-cut
white vest of silk or other suitable material,
displaying broad eXDanSe of shirt front,
which should be very fine, white lawn tie,
and Tor gloves very pale lavender tint, a
shade off of dead white, which is verv unbe-
coming to the hands. The groomsmen,
of course. dress in conformity with
the groom. The toilettes Of the brides
maids and maid of honor are regulated by
the taste of the bride. They may all
be gOwned in pure white or in different
colors. The hour for the ceremony is a
matter OF individual taste or convenience
Catholics prefer being welded in the morn
ing at solemn nuptial high mass, with full
chorus, which makes very Impressive
ceremony. In early times it was decreed
by the church that no marriages should
take place after y O'Clock, because no man
was supposed tn be sober after that hour.
There is no such decree now, and good
Catholics, as well as all others, may be wed
at any hour. but ultra fashionables are
always married as near high noon as pos
sible.
1t is quite the custom, just preceding the
wedding, to give small luncheons or break