Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-14
COOKS ON COOKING.
Six Masters Discuss Fancy Dishes and
Give Their Favorite Recipes.
Menus Presented at Our sumptuoug Feasts
Insignificant Compared With Dinners
of the Roman Emperors.

copyright and all rights reserved by Godfrey
Williston Christlne.l
Is fancy cooking one OF the lost artsP Had the
ancients tnowedge OF any fancy dishes now I'M
known to US, which were superior to any that
our most accomplished masters of the culinary
art are able to concoct at the present day?
That this is not improbable we cannot doubt,
when we consider how much greater stimulus
to the invention of new and tempting dishes
was constantly afforded the chefs OF old by their
employers. There is no monarch or millionaire
of our time who spends one tenth as much VI on
the menu of his table throu ghout an entire year
as many of the old Roman emperors
expended upon a single banquet. We
read that the Emperor VitteIius fire.
quently lavished upon one OF his great
feasts sums that would amount to millions Of
our American dollars. He had hundreds Of
emissaries who were constantly travelling
through his dominions in search of novelties in
food or drink. He annually expended upon his
table the enormous sum of 81, 0O0, 900, and would
soon have eaten up the resources of the entire
Roman empire If his gluttonous career had not
been prematurely cut short. He often sat down
to II, 600 different dishes at q single meal. His
bill of fare included ZOO different dishes of FISH,
90 dishes of va-i ous kinds of fowl, and one
dish called from its enormnus dimensions, the
shield of Minerva, and composed of
such costly ingredients the
brains of phelsants, woodcocks,
the sounds of the fish called scarf and the spawn
OF the camprey brought from the Carpathian
sea,
In comparison with such a bill of fare the
most elaborate menus presented at our most
sumptuous modern feasts must pale their inef-
fectual fire and sink into utter insignifcance.
Fifty dollars plate would now be thought
large sum to be expended on q dinner, but it
would not have provided the one hundredth part
OF single dish that graced their entertainments
OF Vittellius or of such other sybaritic Roman
emperors as Nero, Tiberius, Callgula, Heliogab-
olus and many others. American millionaires
will have to pay their coo as great deal more
r q n In
before they can begin to approach within the
shadow of the epicurean magni6cence of the
monarchs of old.
In view OF these facts we must conclude that
fancy cooking is to certain extent a lost art.
That IS, that many dishes that once delighted
palate of emperors are wholly unknown TO
US, and must ever remain SO, though doubtless
many OF these culinary tr.umphs Of the past
would be, like Katisha in the ''Mikado," an
acquired taste to modern epicures. Fortunately
we still possess sufficient knowledge to get up
very fair meal and have the skill to concoct
certain dishes at which not even a Vittellius
or Caligula would vainly endeavor to turn up
his Roman nose. AS an evidence Of this I ap-
pend some recipes to the connection Of which I
nave devoted much time and study and which
think will be found highly satisfactory in their
results.
ROASTED pUcKLIsa SAUCE. cHASrILLY sAssFoRp
Feel six sour apples, cook them in q little
water, pass them through q sieve. Add two
ounces of scraped horseradish; let II get cold.
OF whipped cream, with little sugar in it.
Serve cold in a sauce tureen. The above is q
most excellent sauce TO serve with ducks and
geese.
TENDERLoIS OF BEEF HASH A La SAN WARD.
Cut In pieces one-eighth OF an inch square
some colo cooked tenderloin Of beef, about one
pound being the right quantity. Hash two
shallots. Cut in pieces one-eighth of an inch
square one ounce Of raw ham, two ounces Of
fresh mushrooms, two ounces of boiled pota-
toes. Fry the shallots in hot butter, add the
ham, the mushrooms and potatoes. Fry to-
gethsr and then add two Gills Of brown sauce,
salt, pepper and q little nutmeg. Let the whole
minutes. mn in
with 1t. Let it get very hot without boiling.
Dish up, sprinkle q little hashed parsley over Il
and garnish the plate with some toasted bread
cut In fanciful shapes.
EGG RS cocoTE,
Eor this there is needed peculiar vessel
called cocote. Frying hot butter, one spoon
full Of onions, two OF mashed mushrooms one OF
trufhes, salt and pepper. Butter q cocote. Add
the whole, Break two eggs in the cocote. Put