St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-08-24

4>.ssr1EE AasFss i an mate aue sense
OF cause and effect, while others have
but scanty idea of the ''eternal fitness
of things,'' and provided they are
dressed in the latest style it matters
but little whether particular costume
is suitable for the morning drive,
the afternoon promenade, or the
ball room. The ultra-fashionable
names are always on dress parade, and,
in order to render their toilette erect
i've, they study the minutest details as
carefully as does genre painter. Every
one familiar with art knows that the
lack of symmetry i'll a picture may De
the result of ungraceful lines and
mixture of colors which have no affinity
for each other. This lnartistlc ham
ding is often seen in dress, and, al
though the world at large considers TOO
great attention to detail frivolous, every
woman who desires to make pleasing
beneath her dignity to apply the rules
of art to her dress and study what is
most becoming to her individual style.
At no time in the history OF the
world have women costumed them
selves more superbly and more taste
fully, for we borrow ideas from the
whole world, both civilized and bar
barian. The tissues of gold and sill
yer in which our grandeS danes array
themselves are copied from those in
which the dreamy-eyed Oriental beauty
enwraps her supple form. The Figaro
jacket, whose name comes to us from
Spain, is copied from those worn by
the dark-skinned Moorish beauties.
Nothing has had longer reign
than the Figaro. or Bolero, jacket,
and its popularity is owing to
its ornamental attributes. These
little affairs are now made so that they
can be worn with any gown, and moth
ing is more charming than light sum-
mer dress, over which is thrown vel
vet OF satin Figaro stiff with embroidery
of gold and pearls. They are some
times even studded with mock jewels
and rosy coral beads, and edged with
Turkish sequins or bullion fringe. With
these coquettish little jackets the sash
l. Arabe harmonizes well. 1t is prettiest
when made of strip five yards in
width, of some semi-tranSparent tissue,
either plain OF with the ends frlnged,
and wrought i'll a delicate tracing of
gold and silver. Sometimes it is gath
cred at the end and finished with heavy
gold or silken tassels; is tied loosely
about the waist and then knotted half
able relief to an otherwise plain skirt.
Ribbons play conspicuous part In
the scheme of color, those about three
fingers in width being the most fash
ionable; much narrower ones are also
in vogue, but give a somewhat fantastic
appearance to the toilet Lengths of
medium width ribbon placed at regular
intervals around the skirt and knotted
near the bottom have a specially
happy effect on lace and grenadine
toilets. Gauze ribbons striped in gay
colors are charming on summer gowns
of light texture, imparting a very gay
and airy effect. Reversible ribbons are
again in the market and are especially
handsome for nat and bonnet trim
mings.
1t is whispered that the pockethand-
| kerchief will assert itself again, other
| wise it seems almost unnecessary for
| the manufacturers to make them of such
ornate designs if they are to be hidden
| away in the dark receSSeS Of dress peck
| cts. Another reason for their reappear
| ance is the impossibility of finding ones
| pocket, for most dressmakers have
habit Of putting this useful accessory
in the most inaccessible place.
Flowers no longer play as Important
role as they once did. During the
present season they are not nearly as
often seen as they were two or three
years ago. This is presumably due to
| their erstwhile too lavish use, and re-
fined women no longer wear the huge
corsage bouquet which ruined delicate
dresses and destroyed the lines of the
figure. Small knots of flowers
| are placed upon the bosom
Just below the V-shaped opening of the
| corsage or tucked into the belt or wide
| sash. Now that the rose season is in
| it's decadence, the more hardy flowers
| are in the ascendency. Haunting field
peoples. one-eyed daisies and great
double carnations are the favoriteS of
the hour. the brilliant coloring of the
midsummer flowers harmonizing adj
mirably with the gayly tinted dresses.
The brocaded stuffs strewn with
pompadour bouquets vie in naturalness
with the garden flowers, and are often
so realistic that they seem as if freshly
plucked from the parent stalk. In con-
| traSt to their magnificent textures are
the stuffs of gray, as faint as summer
cloud, of blush tinge, akin to highly
polished steel. A charming example is
seen in gown of image CLOSED gray
lamp as made in severely simple style,
the only garniture being jabot of gray
chiffon scalIoped in white, which runs
up one side; the tight-ftting jacket is
of the Louis XVI. shape, and of dark
| er tint of armure silk embroidered in
gold mixed with straw. Beneath is a
long vest with flaps wrought in rose
buds, and the neck is finished with a
Moliere jabot of white crepe liSse.
Capes of white Persian lamb or err
| mine are worn with summer seaside
toilettes. They are exceedingly becom-
ing to slender figures, the high Medici
collar framing the face having soften
ing effect on the complexion. Gray
and black astrachan capeS are suit
able for less dressy occasions, and
are more convenient than jack
cts for slipping on during
the damp summer evenings. In fact,
these lightweight furs," as they are
called, are quite the rage in spite OF
their seeming incongruity. Little capeS
of embroidered velvet are even prettier
than the fur ones, those Of myrtle
green, golden brown and sapphire blue
iightened with arabesques of floral de-
signs being especially rich and becom-
ing.
Haunting broad brimmed hats, demi-
trained gowns of transparent texture,
and towering sleeves are among the no
ticeable features of midsummer
costumes. For the consolation of those
who have been told that the high sleeve
will be abandoned, / can state
on excellent authority that both
the high sleeve and the high collar have
come to stay with us at least throughout
the winter, and that there need be no
| unpleasant anticipation of a return
to the uncomfortable Skin-tight sleeve
once so fashionable. ETELKA.
Show the Wrist.
sMadge'' in London Truth.