, 1890-06-05

nou-cAtstcHtcOi tThnnpsi ne tHUuSll'i
was n certain sharp spur OF NECESSITY
which goaded men Of dcsuotlIdc
to ut least movement In rigor-
Gus northern climes. In such
lands as Italy sunshine aud
sleep were a good part of food itseli ;
little actual nourishment WIS reguis-
ito where there was little waste from
exertion. The lazzaroni could sleep
out-ol.doors nearly all the year
round; wine was cheaper than good
water; practically no clothing was
required, and, altogether, scnti-
mental tourists provided handsome
~ for all. For himself, he had n
soul above begging below the ban
ditti, and 80 loved Ills ndored Italy
that he aspired to know II from the
true travellers standpoint. To fur
ther this aspiration he repaired pc
dal indurations by day and inpro-
viscd pastoral cpics by night, science
and poetry, AS II were, wandering
hand In hand through the sunny
ways Of Italy.
Millions of men and women read
ing Milton's lines,
Thick as auiumnal leaves that strcw
In Vallombrosa, where tn Etrurian
| shades
High overarch'd cmbower--"
have seen the vision that came In q
swift longing to him to again dwell
among the Franciscan monks in
the monastery near the top Of the
mountain, above Florence, and
yearned, as we ycnrned, for the cool
depths of its restful shade. IL Is tho
one place In all Italy, save beauti-
ful Palermo, which fuliills precon-
ccived notions. Your journey is
eighteen miles from Florence, up tho
lovely valley of the Arno, where
arc cmboWercd In vine and flowers
hundreds OF villas occupied by the
Italian aristocracy aud nobility. A
broad carriage-road leads all the
way. Halting at the little village
of Tosi, from which one was for
merly conveyed to the mountain re-
treat by sledge drawn by oxen, an
hour is passed at refrcshments and
In enchanting views of the cities,
valleys, plains and rivers hollow,
when the journey Ia resumed UP the
Prntomagno mountains, through
groves OF the most magnificent
beech and chestnut trees In the
world. The songs of birds, the E,o-
Ian music of falling waters, so be-
witch one all the way from Tosi,
that suddenly and without warning
you are at the mountain eerie.
1t comprises but few acres
of level meadow, through which
runs long avenue oi majestic trees,
and at the end OF this stands the
lichened aud gray old mass of build
ings, more famous from three lines
by Milton than any other similar
spot in The world. The order Of VAL
lambrosans, founded In the early
part of the eleventh century uy
Gualberto, of Florence-who, pre-
vented by u pious impulse from slay-
ing the murderer OF his brother,
though at his mercy, In thankful
ness to God became religious dew
otee, and eventually the founder Of
Il great order-bccaine one of the
richest aud most powerful in Italy,
and this one old monastery held
their chief treasure. For this order
Ciambue painted his priceless Ma
donna, Pcrugino his marvellous
Assumption. But the French revo-
luton almost ruined the order.
When Nepoleon's council debated
whether they hould spare the Val
lonbrosans, because they kept the
wolves thinned In the mountains, IL
was asked, "Shall we have monks
or wolvcs?" "Wolves,n was the
answer; and Victor Emmanuel i'm
1860, at the italian disestablishment,
completed their extinction here.
The place is now used as IA govern
ment agricultural school, with
corps OF resident professors, and Just
above the monastery IL an observa-
tory, one OF the Italian signal and
weather stations OF to-day. A glori-
Gus torrent leaps past the edge of
the meadow; the forests in which
the sweet old nest Ii cn,oedded were
nearly all set out 10y the monks; over
10000 beech trees are now standing,
all of which were planted by these
vigorous recluscs; and though Val
loinbrosa is 5000 iect above the sea,
the mou untain behind rises |, 600 feet
higher, covered douscly with gs
grand pine loreet u ever eyes be-
held. Glorious indeed are all the
surroundings and memories of this
little upland valley; but from the
top of Pratomagno the most raw
isnly beautiful view in all Italy is
presented. What wondrous asso-
Citations are conjured in clntempla-
tion of the fair, far tusCnliuo valley,
with its boundary beyond formed by
lofty Apennines, where are born the
Iiber and ARM! Tuscany, home
of the dream-bIeeding vine and
of fair women, stretches
sunnily to the westward.
The majestic DuomO glitters down
there IN the center OF the purple,
checkered valley where Florence
stands. Aud lar, faint and magi-
caliy seen through the passes of the
utternlost peaks of Carraru, shines u
thread of sapphire where sweep the
sails upon the broad Mediterranean.
Descend to the old monastery.
Dream among It's cloisters. Nau-
der among its stately groves. Leave
II to go your way and never return.
But all The sadness Italy has left in
your heart Will lie there with some
thing akin TO forglyiug tenderness
IL you have but once drunk the am
brosia and known the spell
"s where the E,rurian shades
High oycrnrch'd embowcr."
EDGAR l.. NAKEMAN.
TIE LUMBER INDUSTRY.