New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-18
GLIMPSES OF BRAZIL.
AN OLD CATHOLIC STRONGHOLD.
CHANGES WROUGHT IN BAHIA-srUDIEs IN
w.

(FRoM A STAFF CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRlBUNgl
Bahia, December o.
This is city built, like Quebec, on high bluffs
and PERCEPTIONS hisides close TO the waters edge
There is n long. struggling lower town, with
sharp defle leading through a ravine TO the crest
of the cliffs on which the upper town is in
trencbcd. There is no citadel with frowning bos-
tions commanding the approaches by water, as
at Quebec. but there are elevated terraces with
magnificent prospects Of a bay rivalled only by the
harbor of Rio and there are churches mOnas
tcrics and converts Of quaint, if not impressive,
architecture-many Of them crumbing and de-
serted monuments of q religious order that be-
longs TO the past. Bahia was one Of the earliest
Of the Portuguese settlements in Brazil 1t be-
came the religious centre of the Empire, the Arch
bishop having his official residence near the
Cathedral, ana DEGREES for the government of the
provincial doceScs being issued here. The gray
cloiscrs and mOnastio ruins remain TO attest the
antiquity and religious ascendancy Of the town.
All else is changed. The population has grown
rapidly during recent years, and Bahia has be-
come centre of commerce. trade and naLufact-
uring. Blocks of substantial warehouses have
been built underneath the PERCEPTIONS walls of the
cliffs Rows Of brisk but vulgar shops line the
waters edge Elevators have been constructed
for transferring passengers from the lower TO the
upper town in less than a minute. Street rail
ways cngrdlc the town. Tall factory chimneys
tower among the ancient domes and black crosses.
There is an air Of hustle and enterprise in the
streets The old Bahia, with its memorials of
musty past, has almost vanished from view. 10
is a new Bahia, with the beat and throb Of com
mcrcial activity pulsing through its veins.
Each Brazilian coast city seems to have its
characteristic colors Para is what artistic deco
rators would describe as a symphony in green;
Maranhao is an old bit of washed-Out blue Per-
nambuco affects cheap and spongY aabaster in
its gray and white, and Bahia is study OF buff and
brown. If the architects sought 10 set the pre-
vailng tone Of color in these towns when they
fashioned their sombre-hucd temples and monas-
teries they have been banlcd by the love of vivid
coloring inherent in the Portuguese blood. 1t
may be that the primal hints for intensity
in decorative effects have been received from
Nature. Nowhere is the ocean of so pronounced
blue as in tropical Brazil. Under condi-
lions Of light or cloud is there the fantest touch
Of the North Atlantic green. 1t is literally the
matchless dark-bue sea Of which poets have sung.
over it arches the dome of the tropical sky fres-
coed in tones of luminous blue ncomparably
richer than the blue Of a northern sky. Against
this background Of vivid blue stand out the in
tense green and flaming scarlet of tropical vege-
tation. While there are no trees in the South
American woods which be compared in form
and symmetry with the oaks, elms. pines. chest
nuts. walnutS and confers of 4 northern forest,
the foliage here has richer and deeper tnts in its
perennial freshness. The mangoes. with their
dark olive leaves, match the bright and gaudy
feathers Of the palm. The MOSES clinging to
tho cliffs. the tall, luyuriant grasses in shaded
rayincs and the vigorous. rank climbers, over
spreading with riotous growth the woodland
thiccts and rocky hillsdcs, furnish varied shades
OF green as intense as the blue Of sky or ocean.
In contrast with the green, but even stronger in
color. are the burning scarlet, the royal purple
and the luminous yellow shining ont from par
tcrres Of flowers in the gardens. Tropical flow
crs, while less fragrant and having less dclicacy
Of form than the flowers Of temperate climcs, are
more vivid in hue Nature sets the example here
Of profusion OF color. and man instinctiyely fol-
lows it in building and decorating the towns.
Portuguese thing can he had in all colorS and
patterns. and bright, SNOWY paint does not cost
more than the dull and quiet shades. Every
tow is apparcllcd in coors strong and high.
Perhaps thc effect is less noticeable here than in
the northern coast towns of Brazil, the prevailing
yellow and brown suffering in contrast with
the brighter dress of Para and Maranhao, but
there is color enough and TO spare in Bahia.
CURIOslTIES or COSTUME
II each coast town has lis Characteristic color.
50 also each has It's own fashions of dress for the
swnrming black population | have noticed
process of evolution in costume as | have come
down from the equator The negro children at
Para and Maranhao were stark naked. At Per-
nambuco and Bahia they have calico dresses. The
men began with a pair of trunks or short trou-
,crs. without hat, Shoes shirt or coat; at Maran-
hao they added a loosc-iittinS shirt. tapping over
the trousers at Pernambuco n ragged coat went
over the shirt and torn straw hat covered the
head; and at Bahia shoes and stockings almost
complete the costume of negro laborcr. Only
the waistcOat remains To be provided, and
perhaps ! may find that at Rio. The costume OF
tie women has been developed in the same pro-
prcssiVe way. At the start there was tunic or
cicIuisc with head and feet bare Further down
the coast Il calico skirt and waist were thrown
over the tuuic and shoes were worn. AT Bahia
a light shawl or wrap is thrown over calico suits
of the gaycst colors and patterns, and there Is Il
lavish display of cheap bracelets, brass earrings
and amulctS. At Rio | am prepared to see hand
kcYchcIs and fans. These are the costumes Of
the lowest classes of blacks. With education,
respectable employment and social equality, the
dress OF tie negroes and mulatt0eS changes, I'M
ill il is hardly distinguiShablc from that of the
native BazlianS and Portuguese. \ black who
has risen above the level of his race is scrupu-
lousy careful 10 initiate in detail the costume of
his cdual the Portuguese white. lie wears ordi-
narily a silk or black felt hat, broadcloth cut
away coat of black, and pantaloons and waist
coat of white duck. Even the lowest classes Of
blaci.S in Bahia are superior TO any other negroes
whom have yet seen in Brazil. The women who
hawk fish pineapplcs in the streets are marvels
of physical development and grace, and they walk
like Greek goddeSScs. With purple, pink or blue
waists Gu; low in the neck, they display arms of
the finest modelling aud development of muscle
and sinrw and an erect and qucenly carriage
which must he the envy and despair of Brazilian