News and citizen. [volume] (Morrisville, Vt. ;) 1881-current, 1890-02-27
MODEL COOKING SCHOOL
PRACTICAL WAY OF IMPROVING
BRITISH COOKING.
Example Is Better Than Precept"---
Over 10000 Pupils Since 1874.

Over 10000 Pupils Since 1874.
A correspondent thus writes of a
visit to London cooking school: In
Inc large yestibule of the school, into
winch we pass, is broad counter en-
closing corner and here, on a ''fair
white cloth" are arranged all manner
OF ornamental dishes, entrees, calan-
tines, Jellies, creams, etc., which are
daily made by the teachers in the
demonstration classes, and are here set
out for sale. No doubt many clever
housewife avails herself of this method
of procuring admirably made dishes at
a trifing cost which could not be
| turned out at home without $500
chef. Turning the corner of the
| counter we find ourselves in q wide
| passage, which divides the various
Kitchens. The first kitchen is empty,
but Mrs. Clarke tells me it is to be used
for children's classes, the demonstra-
tors ga stove being placed in the mid
die between three large tables, outside
which the pupils stand and imbibe in
struction.
The next kitchen is very big, and
indeed it needs to be, for there are
about twenty girls and women in it,
pupils and teachers, and yet Mrs.
Clarke says that it is unusually empty,
owing to the inroads of influenza on
both staff and pupils. This is the prac-
tlce-kitchen for plain cookery. A
group of girls are gathered round one
table, making apple dumplngs under
the supervision and example of the
teacher, who is making some too; far
Their on is another broad table into
which gas-ranges are let at intervals,
at one of which stands quite a young
girl, CARRIED in the regulation apron
and h'.lf-sleeves, but of an age to wear
her hair in schoolgirl fashion down
her back. She is ev IDENTITY novi e
in the culinary art, and is stir. ing
saucepanful of apple jelly in embryo,
which is simmering over the gas, in
tentative way, as if she were not quite
sure what was going to happen next.
In beyond this kitchen is the practice
scullery, where the pupils are taught
the proper methods of washing up, the
best way to clean pots and pans, the
management of ovens and sfireplaces,
open and close ranges, and sundry
other matters of practical detail of
which the ordinary British cook is con!
spicuously ignorant.
Passing once again through the big
airy kitchen, where the central group
of pupils Is busily rolling out the pas
try for the dumplings, we cross the
passage into another kitchen nearly as
Ia &c, which is the practice-kitchen for
"high-class cookery In here the pu-
pills are somewhat older, as becomes
those who would pene rate the arcana
Of soups, entrees, purees, savouries,
sweets, ornamental pastry, and fancy
cakes. 1t has evidently been day of
cakes, for all sorts of ch0uT a la creme,
scenes, cakes, &C., are being neatly ar
ranged in huge sleeves as they are
taken out of tine various ovens. The
lesson of the day has been on fish en-
trees, and the dainty fingers of the
teacher are engaged on SoleS a la Rolt-
enndiSe when we enter. / watch the
whole process from beginning to end:
the neatnes' the methodical precision
which economies SO much time and
makes furry impossible and unneces-
sary; the extremely simple and lucid
explanations how, why, and when to
mix each ingredient, and the exquisite
cleanliness and avoidance of all hand
ling; and l come to the conclusion
that such teaching, founded oil the old
prov 2rb, example is better than pre-
cept," is not only Invaluable, but alb
surdly cheap at the price of eighteen
pence for a lesson of two hours, or
ten-and-sixpence for n course of TWEEN
ty weeks lessons of five days week.
Such teaching is worth all the cook
ery-bookS in the world, for the written
recipes can never give definite idea of
what dish ought to look like in color
and general appearance when served;
and appearance is quite half the battle
in good cookery. Nothing could be !
more appetising in appearance than the !!
dish that the teacher sets before us, the |
fillets of sole smothered in the thick !
creamy sauce, whose whiteness is re-
lieved by the pattern in pounded coral !
which recalls the lobster stuffing UNDER !
meath. My uncanny mind Immediately /,
sees a likeness between the ''Demon- |
stration room, with its tiers of raised |
seats overlooking a huge table, and |
the dissecting-room at a hospital; but j
| keep the idea 10 myself, and do not
seek to give qualms to my conpanion
by suggesting it. The seats are occu-
pied by number of women-mostly
cooks, l should say who, armed with
notebooks and pencils, jot down the
remarks of the teacher, neat fingered,
dainty little figure, in her snowy white
cap. apron and sleeves.
The audience amuses me; it is so
easy 10 distinguish those who have
come there of their own accord, and
paid the fee themselves out of their
own pockets, with the earnest desire to
acquire as much KIN Wedge as possible,
from those who have been sent there
by their respective "missises," and !
who eye the teacher superciliously, |
hardly condescending from time to |
time TO make note in their books for |
forms sake. The fact that since the
opening of the School in 1874 no less |
taan forty thousand five hundred
pupils have pissed through the various
classes down to the present time, is a
proof that it has not been created in
vain.