The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1890-01-22
HOW SMELLS ARE MADE.
HABEEDAsEER TELLS SOME
SECRETS OF HIS TRADE


How shirts, Collars and Cuffs are
7Tade-Facts About Neckties-Canes
and Shirt studs
From the Washington Star.
81 suppose, " said the haberdasher, ''you
ara not aware that all the dress shirt bosoms
r,n,e from Paris. Aud yet it is so-that is
~ saw. all those that are sold by frst-class
-onrlane IS furnishing houses. The shirts,
themselves, are not imported, for the reason
tbatt French do not understand the art
If making them. Buy shirt of the best
maker over there and you will find that it
has no more fit than bag. But when it
comes to bosoms, none of American make
can approach the Partisan manufacture.
Sse this. for instances. Here is a French
bos5m of perfectly plain pattern; yet OBJ
serve how exquisite the finish is-not
merely as regards the launder-
,rg but more particularly in
reSnsct to the sti ching a. such fine points
Take notice of the delicacy Of the button
boIes-the places for the studs, mean
how each one is outlined as carefully and
,,rettiIv as if the work was so much en-
hroiderv. You never find such ideal button
holes in an American bosom. And the
eeam that runs along the edge of the OPEN
inc down the middle-how fine and straigd
ii is. lie a hair line, when actual en-
broiderv is cCncerned-and a Ger ain
amount of embroidery is just the proper
thing at present. Manufacturers in this
country cannot at all compete with the tor
eign. This, for example, is a bosom in the
veiv latest and most accurate style, as it is
affected by men who have real knowledge
of what is the thing to wear. II has, you
see a single line of fl VERY embroidery,
not too conspicuous, running down the
middle. in white silk. Nothing could be
more exceptionally Ie fromage, as one
might say, than this. OF course you imag-
Inc that the embroidery Is hand work:
ordinarily a dealer would tell you that it
was UGH As a matter of fact, however, it
IS done by machi4 es of almost inconceivable
decacy. The retail price of this bosom is
81 IS; a shirt made to order with it costs
s. 50; he same shirt with perfectly plain
French bosom is 81 so. If a customer
comes here to purchase a dress shirt we
give him nothing else but the imported
b-s)m, permitting him to choose for him.
self among the sample bosoms in stock.
We tike his measure, as for any other
shirts have our own operatives make 1t
with the bosom chosen and the buyer enjoys
tle advantage OF q Carlsldu SCyl6 combined
with American comfort"
COSTLY BosoMs FOR DUDES.
"Some of the dress bosoms in these boxes
seem wo derfully elaborate suggested the
Star writer, paving them ginge-lv over.
YES, they run up as high as $40 apiece.
But mea who really have good t sta do not
wear such costly ones, for the simple reason
that they are too snowy. Partisan dudes of
the newest evolution might sport such
gaudy decoration, but not the handles of
Washington, New York, or Boston. Even
the striped shirts in blue and red that had
such rage year or two ago, particularly
in the metropolis, have gone out now. 1t
was imagined then, you may remember,
that there was serious tendency to re-
version in mems costumes to the m IRE
snowy fashions of days long ago. The
illustration of this afforded by the
colored shirts was to be followed,
some authorities thought, by su n
innovations as knee breeches and silk stock
lngs. rainbow sashes instead of dress waist
coats and modified coats for evening But,
although the movement progressed as far as
embroidery for evening waist coats, fancy
ornamentation for shirts and sashes for
tennis, it had not a Sufficient impetus to
push 1t any farther, and all eady reaction
has begun-dress waistcoats are plain white
once more, or black satin may be. Stripes
have disappeared from shirts, aud mems at
tire bids fair S, on to be somb Der, as it was
before. No renaissance in the art of male
COS uming is to be expected in this genera
ton. Here is a Paris shirt bosom for S.,
which might be sold readily In Chicago. |
have not disposed of one of them yet here.
1t is a verv beautifully executed piece of
work, technically considered. You see, it is
really an exquisite imitation of that sort of
material in which embroidered silk and
brocaded satin appear in alternate stripes.
Another thing that is extremely new
though not, perhaps, what a man of the
most highly educated taste would selects
this pleated bosom, which has 120 pleats on
each side or 240 pleats in all, with band
of plain linen running through the middle
like brook through the meadow"
HOW SHIRTS ARE MADE.
But what you have said only applies to
dress shirts"
THAI is true. All our shirts to order for
ordinary wear are made by our own opera
tives. A frs, class haberdasher always has
his own factory. This does t mean neces-
sariy that he owns the factory outrig t,
though frequently ne does so, but often that
he has share in one or contributes to its
employment. Such a factory need not be
much Of an affair; a dozen female hands
N III pEOAuCS oil tuS WOTh W OT'lHT III buo
way of shirts and other things that is re-
CURED by two or three big furnishing
houses. Only skilled hands are employed
for labor of the sort, at pay that is far from
excessive, though they get more than do
the thousands of women occupied at shirt
making in the huge factories of the
big citi in New York state and in Con-
necticut, which supply all this vast C IN
try, with ready-made linen garments of the
'biled' variety. The making of shirts in
these enormous establishments is reduced to
scie ce mathematical Tue parts are cut
out, dozens time, with a keen-edged
knife, by patterns Men do this; the rest is
all done by women, who stitch the portions
together. Stamping the trademark on the
collar band is the final operation before the
shirt is sent to the laundry. AT the laundry
1t Is done up in special department, not by
TIE ordinary machines hue by hand. This
Is called stock wol k and it costs from Is to
20 cents per shirt. The trihe, of course, is
added to the price of the article when it is
exposed for SALE HaberdaShers usually get
t1elr ready made shirts by ordering di-
Fectly from the manufacturers.
COLLARS AND CUFFS.
How is it about collars and cuffs"
The supply for the United States is
produced almost wholly in New York
State, the great center of manufacture
Delng Troy. Collars and cuffs are turned
OUT very much in the same way that shirts
are, and the gentlemen's furnishers get
mem mostly from the makers, though often
from Jobbers. What is tie jobber's func-
uons Why. simDly this: Suppose a big