Telegram-herald., 1890-04-01
BRAINS IN MACHINES
IAs Esosr futrsss1s $50 De1sS@ts Hf1s II
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80, said Joseph Alexander - Caio&go
nerald reporter. s-21d. aside fro-a those
Immediately interested, nobocy kne~s
any taing about it And yet u Ls AZ m
1stry which iayolTes millions of doA-
lars Perasps the term industry -
slightly uisle4Sing. Is IL more Of an
ars than sn industry"
Explain, please"
well, ths best way 70 explain Is 70
take you along right 70 the spot where
this industry Is carried on"
In q long fight Of rooms row Of
some Two scoFe Of machines were stand
ing. These machines were Of different
construction ard served different pur-
poses. That much Was apparent az once.
''Up 70 1885 al those embroidered and
braided garme nts. the elO&ks ard reoep-
ton gowns, egpes, eoc., had 70 be i'm
ported from Paris and Berlin, said Nr.
Alexander. but they are now all tnaas
right here. To show you the difference
between then and now IL Is only neoes-
sary 70 say that the silk embroidery on
a lady's Jacket alone used % cost about
els 70 SS5, nov IL is made for S. a fine
embroidered silk robe, sueh Is now can
be turned out here for so Or $50, used
70 REQUIRE an outlay Of s1s0 10 $500.
With tha. IL had 20 be imported. IL
could not be made hero. Take another
line OF goods. such IS embroidered ia
bic covers, soarfs, tides, pillow shams,
etc. They're all done by machinery
now. All those delicately twisted fow-
ers, those roses and vines and clusters
Of grapes and pearl blossoms and sun
flowers and pensies-thcy're all wrought
into the cloth by machinery. And this
is the only establishments Of the kind IN
America, at least tho only ono of any
size, and the only ono whore every va
riety Of this work can bo done. They
have none such In the East"
II is very curious 10 watch those ma
chines-apparently endowed With moro
than ordinary human intelligence-at
work. There are some ten diffcront
kinds OF machines kept in operation.
The most curious Of all is one invented
a year ago-a machine whose special do
main Is the so-called applique" work
1t performs three tasks at one and tho
game time. When properly adjusted
tiny knife cuts out, according TO the
pretty design intended, the figures from
the upper layer of cloth, while simultan-
eously the machine sews these figures
on to the layer OF cloth underneath,
the upper layer being generally OF mo-
dium thickness, while the lower one ie
cloth OF the thickest, warulest and most
expensive kind, such "a is suitable for a
ladys winter cloak The stitch is pretty
and artistic, and the thread runs through
the double thickness of cloth, making
the work as durable as 1t is possible TO
have it. The effect thus obtsined-ar-
tistio arabesques, beautifully curving
lines, forming an intricate yet pleasing
pattern, lying on the cloth underneath,
is very pretty, indeed. Generally two
cloths OF shades differing so much as %
form fine contrast are chosen. The
delicate mechanism Q; this machine is
especially noticeable in the cutting out
Of the ripper layer of cloth. For while
tho whole process of cutting it and sew
ing il on tight at the same time Is done
50 quickly under the hands Of a sldllful
operator, that 3 yard Of this applique"
work Is made within about five minutes.
the knife must be so nicely adjusted
that it will cut exactly through the
thickness OF the upper cloth and not
the Rundredth part of an inch deeper, or
the whole material and the whole work
would become dead loss.
However, that was but one Of the in
teresting features Of this establishment.
Another machine, which is likewise the
product of very ingenious brain, Is the
so-cafled "three-spool' machine. Two
threads of worsted and one thread CT
silk cordiDg are manipulated by this
machine in such manner as to lag
down the worsted on the cloth and TO
spin the silk right over and all around
it. The effect thus produced Is that Of
very thick silk braid, the whole being
more durable than silk throughout, yet
much less expensive. The beading na-
chine, by means OF which those most
elegant ornaments on 2 wonan's dress,
those glistening arabesques of beading,
are put on is another triumph of me-
ehanical genius. The same may be
said OF tho feather-edge machine.
which does the so-callcd sunbeam
and rainbow work. emb-oidering tho
shades, which are gradually toned down;
of the Cornelly machine, which does
the cording, and still moro so Of the SOU
tache machine, which does the simplest
and yet ono Of the most effective style,
OF embroidery. II Ii the latter sort Of
work shat ladies call scutache. Nearly
every woman wears It on some piece oi
garment, on cape, cloak, on her
dresses and even on her underwear
And II IS OF exactly the kind which. bu;
couple Of years back. WAS vcry expen-
sive, but which now, thanks 20 this
wonderful piece OF mechanism, has como
within the reach Of all. And as there
is great variety in the style Of work
done By thess different machines, 80
there is In the material with which they
work There is silk braid OF every in,-
aginable hue and thicknsss; there IL
oolored spool-silk OF o hundred shades.
there is gold thread and silver thread
and bronco thread. OF which great deal
l. especially used FOR what is known a.
"arrasene~ work, {. @, embroidered
flowers. leaves, vines ndfraits on :abls
an1 other covers.
HlJNOpS OE THE nav