The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-12-21
THE sHwEDAGoNE PAeoDA.
In the lndo- Chinese Country the Most
Striking Characteristic of Every
Landscape Is Found in the Re-
ligious BuiIdings-Festiyal at the
Great Shrine of Gautama.

there stands in stately grandeur, venerable
with associations Of two thousand years, yet
fresh to-day as if from the builders hands,
one of the most beautiful and honored
shr!neS OF Buddha 10 be found throughout
the vast territories of lndo-China. Without
rival In the grace OF lis proportions and
the richness of its adornments, the great
Shwedagone pagoda, as it flashes q mass of
gold in the tropical sunlight, dominating
from its commanding site not only the city
of Rangoon, but the delta of tie Irrawaddy.
is worthy emblem of the faith of which it
Is the conspicuous and tangible embodi-
ment.
D None OF all the sacred buildings in this
land of monasteries and pagodas can boast
1.-THE OF the dignity OF splendor assigned
To shrine which is the object of veneraton
Tor races and languages without number.
In an 1nGo-Chinese country the most
striking characteristic of every landscape is
found in the religious buildings, and es-
peclally in the high places of Buddhism
What the village church is to rural Eng
land, what the fountain chapel is in Cath
ole lands, that is the pagoda in such coun-
try as Burmah or Siam. The landmarks
which distinguish the smallest village on the
plain are the tripple-roofed monastery build
Ing and the elittering psgoda spire rising
from the trees. In a land traversed by
mountain ranges of varying altitude the
crown OF every hilltop and of every spur
even of crags almost inaccessible to human
foot. Is the same tapering spire with gilded
canopy and tinkliDg bells and all the we'll
known Accomplishments of Budi wor-
ship.
FROM whatever quarter the city of Ran
goon is approached, whether by sea or river
or railway. the site Of the town is recogn zed
from afar By the vision of a golden spire
lifted into the clouds and seeming hardly to
rest on the solid earth. For any one to
Whom this site Is familiar il is easy to realize
the profound Influence exercised over an
oriental Imagination by symbol Of the ma
Llonal laith al once so ancient and 50 beauti-
full, so imposing in its towering height and in
IT'S imperial station. The first CLEAN of its
gold Is invariably greeted by the pious Bur-
man with alteration of Bonded knees and
hands uplifted in silent PRAYER.
suppose that in all the Eastern world no
more impressive scene, writes a contributor
10 MacmIllan's Magazine, is ever witnessed
than enc Of the periodical festivals which
make the great shrine of Gautama the cen
Ter OF pilgrimage for thousands of men,
women and children Of many races, tongues
and costumes. The enormous pile of
THE CENTRAL PAGoDA,
Rising to the height of 800 feet-a blaze of
gold leaf from crown to base-the lavish
richness of It's surroundings, the graceful fol-
iageSamid which il rises the motley crowd of
worShipers, the extravaganza of the offer
1ngs, The glded and painted chapels lighted
Titii lnnumerable tapers, the colossal in
ages, the music of invisible bells, and the
dazzling sunlight over all, combine TO form
spectacle such as can have few rivals even
among Eastern pageantries.
1t was my fortune tl0ng ago to be a pas
senger on board steamer on the frrawaddy
As we approached Rangoon an anxious
oh la.Af fir I'M 8 =
agOne, and it was with genuine enthusiasm
that the first glimpse of the distant spire
was hailed; men, women AID children pros
trating themselves On the deck in silent de-
votIon.
The first impression given by the approach
Is disappointing, as we push our way up a
Hight OF rough stone steps TO the rude arch
way which opens into the covered way lead
Ing to the iagoda. On either side of this
shabby entrance stands monster of ma
sonry, thirty TO forty feet high, the lion of
Burmese fable.
Passing under the arch we begin the slow
ascent of the steep stone stairway. This is
carried under substantial roof, surmounted
on the outside by turrets and gables, rich
with the wood carving and gilded finals
which characterize all Burmese religious
buildings, and supported within by rows Of
solid pillars, here Of polished masonry,
there of huge uncut timber, stained red,
gold and black. The ceilings are deliberately
decorated with holdings and rosettes OF
scarlet and gold, or inlaid with mosaic of
colored glass, with carved figures of Buddhist
saints and angels, and with realistic paint
lngs representing all the fortunes Of hell with
minuteness worthy the Inferno" On
either side the stairway is a succession of
rest honseS, In more or less dilapidated
state. Throughout the year the haunt Of
beggars and dogs, on a festival day large
number of these are transformed into 10y
shops aud stalls for the sale Of sweetmeats
and offerings for the pagoda.
Now for a moment the covered way gives
place to the open air, as we cross the wooden
drawbridge thrown by English engineers
over the moat which encircles the fortress
shrine. For the holy place on its command
Ing eminence has at all times served as a
sanctuary aud fortress of war. and is now
transformed by wall and ditch and earth
work INTO one OF the strongest OF Anglo
Indian forts. Diving again under the COW
cred way, up sleeper and sleeper steps we
climb through the same avenue of quaint
surroundings, I'LL the summit is gained, and
we take breath In an open rest-house eX-
ceptioDally rich in ornament. whose
vERMILIoN-cEILED ARCADEs
Are thronged with sellers of flowers and
tapers ana toys and offerings. Emerging
now on to broad, level plateau, we are
under the immediate shadow of the great
pag0da itself, and II hitherto We have
been chiefly impressed by the contrast, so
characteristic of the East, which is presented
by the union of squalor and meanness with
the grand and picturesque, it is with almost
startling suGdenness that we are at last re-
warded by view in which all that is incon.
gruous seems los. to sight in the
splendor and solemnity of the scene.
As we lift our eyes from the dense and
brilliant human crowd to the golden mass
of building, rising from within a circle of
richly carved chapels and of thousand min
lature shrines and spires and affairs OF offer
ing till 1t eliminates at giddy height in
tapering canopy plated with pure gold and
hung with circlets of bells Of precious metal,
which keep up a sweet jangle Of music
with every vibration Of the air-we are con-
scious for the moment of an access of unbid-
den sympathy with the reverent multitude
among which we move, carried away by the
prevailing sense of veuerati0n which seems
to issue from the holy place itself.
The Burmese pagoda, it may here be ex-
planned, is in no sense a temple with interior
chambers for religious use. but simply a
monumental mass, like an Egyptian 0belisk,
usually built over some holy relic-a hair or
nail or tooth of Buddha. Like some colossal
bell it rises FROM broad base to a tapering
point, the surface being broken at intervals
by conventional mouidiDgs, and the summit
mented crown called the htee, or umbrella.
This is of flagree metal work In gradually
lessening rings, the whole being gilded or.
as in this case. plated with gold and hung
) with sweet-toned bells of varying size.
From the clapper Of each bell hangs broad
Ieaf-shaped tongue, which catches every
breath that blows. so that round every pa
CODA the air is ever filed with their wild,
ftful music.
Such is the central structure of the giant
Shwedagone, as of every lesser .pagoda
But around the base and adjoining the main
building SO as to seem an integral part OF 1t
are erected permanent chapels, themselves
of no mean proportions. enriched with wood
carving, gliding and painting, furnished
with all the adjuncts of Buddhist ceremo-
NAL, and on such an occasion as this filled
by a congregation of devout worshipers.
Between the pagoda with its fringe Of
AUDITING shrines and the brow of the hill on
which IL stands, commanding complete
panorama of the surrounding country, the
level plateau on which the multitude is
gathered is neatly paved with tiles and
ekirted on its outer edge by an interminable
medley of picturesque and highly
DECORATED IMAGE HOUSES,
And raat houses nagodas and flapstaffs