The morning call., 1890-06-08
JAUNTY SAILOR-HATS.
The Ladies All Wear Them-H0W
They Look in Various Styles.

HAF you want to know what is going to be
the rage this season can tell you," said
AH prominent milliner TO representative
of THE CALL. IT'S nothing mole or less
than the sailor-hat."
"Why, that is nothing new, is it?" said
her listener. 81 thought that sailor-hats
were in vogue every summer"
"And so they are. but l can assure you
that they are to be perfect craze 1t does
not matter about the price. They come as
low as so cents for a coarse straw, un-
trimmed. and they mount up to whatever
fancy price a milliner may choose to ask
for creation of her own, ON the frame as a
foundation.
There are good many reasons why the
sailor-hat should be the rage. In the first
place, it's not high priced, or it need not
be, unless one is willing. Then it can be
worn without regard to tile costume, and
you know now that there is law that the
dress boDnets and hats should be IN har
mOny with the costumes"
II suppose that that is device of you
milliners to Increase the number of hats
that fashionable lady must wear" said
the reporter, with a smile.
II am sure you are at liberty to think So"
said the milliner. with look that gave as
sent to his words, although she did not YER
bally admit that he was right.
But there is one thing that | don't MUD
admitting, and that Is that no milliner ever
likes fashion that calls for bonnet made
out of the same material as the dress it.
self. We do all that we can to discourage
the idea. 1t is never so stylish, and we
don't make as large profits. But to return
to the sailor-hat Another reason that it
will be so popular is that the great army
OF young girls who like to have change of
headgear. but whose purses, unfortunately,
will not permit of any extended purchases
after their one best hat, are, most Of
them, able to put the necessary band
around the straw sailor-hat, and
sally forth as iauntily as the rest. This is
very general. Then the sailor-hat is SO
convenient. 1t requires no elaborate liking
to the hair to look we'll beneath ii. Indeed
all that it requires is that the head be
dressed as snugly and neatly as possible.
Girls with small heads may wear their hair
a little more loosely than those with big
tops to their craniums, and the halter
should be careful not to indulge in too
small a size. II always amuses me when
see how a big-headed woman seems to think
when she is going to buy small hat that
it does not matter about the size at all
that she can wear the cover of a pili-box il
she should so desire. OF course with some
of my customers 1t is possible to educate
them to better things. but with the majority
| simply have to let them buy what they
like"
"But are all sailor-hats alike"
There were never so many variations on
the one idea as there are at present." was
the reply. In the first place you see the
high-crowned, broad d-brimmed sailor-hat
This is seen principally In white straw, and
is meant to be elaborately trimmed, gener-
ally with white tulle futfed all over it. or
caught in big butterfly bow Oh the left
side toward the front. Field flowers are
used on such hats-p0pples, not the great,
large, ragged ones in such favor for bon
nets, but the smaller ones with the fuzzy
stems. L have seen some fruit on these
hats, but / do not fancy that at all. Then,
instead Of having trimming that raises the
hat, 1t may have a big bow Of rich ribbon
caught on the left, always toward the
front.
But great many of the sailor-hats
have no trimming other than what is passed
around the crown. This may be a piece of
ribbon or of ribbon velvet drawn tightly
around the crown and fastened with all the
brevity of mans bat-band Itmay also
be trimmed with three bands of narrow
velvet ribbon, one above the other, in rows
Pure white straw, banded by a white rib
bon, is very chaste and pretty for young
girls.
Another variety of the sailor-hat is
called the dude 1t is smaller than any
Of the others, with a very narrow brim, not
more than an inch wide. Its crown is very
low. The Drim may be Of one COLOR such
as brown, the crown of white straw and the
band OF tan colored velvet. Or black brim
may be surmounted by crown of white
linen with black velvet band. The most
stylish of all is the entirely black sailor-hat
with its crown of black alpaca scanned
three times across, making three ridges
which divide the top into six triangles
This shaped hat should be worn with the
hair arranged in low coil, for it does not
look well perched up high on the head.
Some attempt was made to introduce
crowns, both in white and black, but they
were speedily voted vulgar aud they soon
fell prey to the .chippies.' l guess that
that is all about the sailor-hat. On, did l
forget to tell you that they are about the
only summer hat with which woman can
wear veil with any kind of comfort? You
see they are SO small i is possible to keep a
veil tied on securely"