St. Paul daily globe., 1890-05-11
DAINTY NIGHT ROBES,
Rich Silks and Linens Af-
feeted by Pretty Society
Danes.
How the Mania for Matching
Affects the Under
Raiment.
The Latest Hobbies in High
Style and Nobby
Stockings.
Leglets Are Increasing in
Popularity Very
Rapidly.
New York Letter.

The mania for matching sometimes
carries the modern woman to extreme
lengths. One very charming lady pre-
sented bit of Royal Dresden china to
another few days ago. The china was
packed in a box and the box was tied
UP with peculiar shade of pale laven-
der ribbon. "Why layender?" queried
the spirit of idle curiosity. ut isn't
thing to speak about" replied the
giyer. ''but picked out the ribbon be-
cause it's the exact shade of her under
wear"
After this one can be prepared for
anything. even for the extreme refine
ments of the color senSe-aS strained
in its deIicacy almost as the sensibili-
ties of the princess who detected pea
under the mountain of mattresses OH
her bed-which feels ill at ease if the
chemise does not correspond to the
exact tinting of a shade with the hue
of the outside gown. We have been
told for many seasons in weari-
some iteration that such and such
a society leader-always the latest per-
son whom the society correspondent
bowed down before and honored-madeI
hobby of, say. gloves. and thought the
most exquisite toilet from Worth fail.
ure if these accessories departed in the
smallest particular from heI notion of
the perfect and becoming. But dress
does not begin and end with gloves this
winter: we have taken up the French
catch word, "slncerity," in gowning.
and when we assume pink ball toilet.
it must be pink outward from the skin.
This is new phase of feminine "cult-
ure" We tolerate no color diScOrdS
covered up under the gown. LII the
debutante wears, for example. a dane
ing frock of green gauZe, she must have
begun her dressing by putting on a
chemise of green India silk, drawn up
about the shoulders, and with the soft
lu!lness shirred at the top into fril of
real lace, which appears above the low
cut bOllce, and is interpreted as body
waist, or chemiSette, by her dancing
partner.
Or if the elegant matrOn chooSes to
air her silver and SevreS by giving
dinner party. it is an Indispensable pre-
liminary to the adjustment of ner black
black velvet robe that the garment
which comes next her person be dusky-
hued as night, and trimmed with black
lace, which serves as the visible cOrSage
garniture.
The inevitable has happened. Ger
tain things which were relegated to
the stricteSt privacy while they were
more useful than ornamental, have now
become SO pretty tnat the propriety of
concealment, doubted in some quarters,
in others is utterly denied. Hence it
comes that lady receives her friends
in her nightgoWn or wears the same
garment to breakfast If the cut of it be
sufficiently novel and the decoration
provocative of applause. Hence also
the necessity for an exact match be-
tween chinese and evening gown. The.
former, if it be Eiffel red, edged with
fine black lace, is the best possible
bodice finish to black net cut decolette
and garnished with red ribbons.
The Chemise as She Is Worn.
A pale blue crepe de Chine dress was
received from Paris recently. These
were its accessories: A little silk un-
dervest of paler blue. so pale as to be
almost pearl; a corset of shade two.
tones deeper, covered with lace and
embroidery; combination garment-the
French for chemise and divided petit
scOat-reachlng just to the shoe tcpS,'
Shirred at the waist, gathered at the top
into broad frill of lace about the
shoulders and matching the gown ex-
actly in hue; silk Openwork stockings.
OF the tint of the petit coat, and consid-
erably shorter than those of last season,
to allow for fastening by silk elastic
garters instead of side bands, these gar
ters matching IN color the pale under.
vest and claSping by a silver arrow
which hooks through silver bow; Slip
pers of blue silk corresponding with
stockings and gown, coming to a long
and very sharp Directory point at the
toes, and having no heels; gloves, lace
handkerchief. a little wreath of forget
me-nots for the hair and feather fan.
Such is fashionable evening outfit.and
the bill is correspondingly interesting.
The chemlSe, in spite of many and
peremptory deerees of banishment. has
by no means disappeared. 1t has, how
ever, bowed to the storm. In one or
two particulars it has reformed. 1t is
cut to fit the figure, with breast plaits
and followed out side seams. The bulk
and clumsinesS of the old-fashioned
article were its doom. 1t fastens nova
days with ribbons Or buttoned straps on
the shoulders, and when worn with a
low bodice to which it's frill of lace or
embroidery is not wanted as ornament.
the ribbons are united and turned down
below the cOrSage, thus doing away
with any need of drawing the arms out
of sleeves.
The Chemise Unnecessary.
But the chemise is unnecessary. and
a set Of underclothes for woman who
keeps abreast of the fashions is more
likely to begin with combination suit
in some delicate shade of silk, a suit
which you would be very likely to
designate as tights if placed on
exhibition. Blue, pink, green
and pale lavender are fashiOna-
ble tintS this winter, though
black has always Stanch following.
and the newest things are Eiffel red
and sulphur or mustard color. After
the tights comes the corset, which. if
meant for wear with an Empire gown.
is very short, a mere Whalebone band
for the waist, and which, to keep pace
with the season. should be biscuit col
ored, black, blue, scarlet. pale green or
yellow. matching the tights or pre- ttiIv
harmonlZing or contrasting with them.
Above the corset is worn corset waist
If the lady is slender, not otherwise.
The prettiest waists this winter are of
colored silk, with puffed elbow sleeves.
which go very easily under the full.
picturesque sleeves of the fashionable
gown; they have wide bands or belts of
embroidery at the waist or else the full
ness is disposed of by shirrlng: thew
are pulled over the bust and gathered
INTO an embroidered band or frill of