New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-01-19
THE FASHIONS.
RICH MATERIAL AND SIMPLE CUT.
HANDSOME su1TIxGs-FR1NGED TRIMMING

trimming
of the underskrt and the edges of the drapcry have
heen left severely plain Many Of the dIaperes,
however. are imported with frirccd borders. which
can only be used as drapery. In some suitngs TINS
fringe is three and four inches wide made of the goods
travelled out and knottcd. In more sheer dress ma
terals like nuns yelling, a border like a twonch band
of ribbon velvet finishes the edge and is again finished
by an inch fringe Of loops and fine sewing SILK Ike the
Tom Thumb frinceS Of years ago.
The pointed Eihel tower passcmentcres used on the
bottom Of dresses at present are shown again for spring
wrought in embroidery plain goods IN shades Oh the
same color and white
The reproduction in weaving of the COUGHING stitches
The darned grounds and other effects from the WORK OF
artistic embroderers generally in the enGhwl>e
ard bayadere striped fronts imported to be maze lap
with plain goods for the remainder Of the costume
The general tendency of the spring goods is 10 greater
elegance of material and more simplicity VI the cut u
the gown so marked Is this tendency to simplicity
of cut that it is safe to predict reaction IN ie"
seasons: but no such change has yet come IN sPuo
of the r1mors of a return TO hoops Chncing clis9'c
STYLES win remain in ascendant for the coming sprung
and summer.
New suitings imported for spring tailor gowns are
composed largely of fine cloths In the fcat'r "e's"v
made especially for ladies' by manufacturers ol
mems suitings These cloths are shown cmehy III
fine checks plads and stripes in the rldesccnt mkt
ures of color which are refined IN ehcct reieNI"N
the eve from the mOnOtony of PLAIN SURFACE Io"u
checks in dark prune daia shades ana Whe' s'ecl
blue and white and dove or ashen sIays Win "l'e'
are some Of the combinations in these clecNS' flno
broken stripes of hair lines and small broken paids III
the inconspcuous combinations of color used III gentle
mems business suits are shown in medley OF tones
of gray tan brown and the dark prune ana purplNh
coO~s of the season
Large plaids in tartan colOrs will continue To be
used especially III the blue and green combinations
which have been worn all winter. There are also
poior
aahIia and the new aubergtne or eggplant shades III
their make up.
As a rule all suitings are up in solid material
without combinations though It l. considered elegant
to combine fine pnhcad check with PLAID having
checked ground The large plaid in snch case
Is used for the front for the undcrSkir and the
nne check for tie remainder of the costume.
Shepherds checks in black and white. are
freely imported and some Of the preitie-t'
Of sheer fine woollcns warm enough for
carly spring are shown with six or seven, haiilhch
stripes of raised white wool as border. IL Is As
soft and mate in weave As white velvet Wh'h
closely Stimulates though woven in a plain surface
without a pile.
4 fringe formed Of the material ravcled out ana
knoted finishes some plaid suitnsS. though II Is TOO
early in the season 10 safely predict that these IN
dictate general return of fringe rather than feature
of dress By few
There are also checks and plaids in dun rich coors
"'-N
bright color.
Plain sutincs are shown in whipcord diaeonas,
serges. faced cloths and other materials
The "mouchor dresses introduced last winter are
again imported in checks with plain bands at the
sides or plain with a bourcttc border.
Plain soft cashmeres and camels hairs arc i'm
norted for especially handsome walking gowns and
for house dresses for early spring. They come i'm
variety of delicate color~-dahia and mauvc shades.
sage green steel blue. suede and crays. The majority
of these woollens dre,s patterns are accompanied by
a yard and a half two yards and quarter OF the
same material ornamented with a border in COUGHING
stitch or in bourette effect; by the same quantity
of canvas striped with satin or fae ribbon bands for
the front or the underskirt. In some cases such
'front.' breadths arc ~darncd7 in embroidery silk and
ornamented with len ,thw,e stripes in bourcite and
crossed at foot by bordering band Dencllc effects
are also shown in these fronts
Sheer woolens are shown in pale mauvc, erayi~h
blue, dove, and delicate a,hcn gray or IN Old rose
These woods are as light as eauze and finished
with two-inch contrasting lace canvas border in
black or in dark shade Of the ground Color which
is completed by the narrow looped fringe already
described.
Pale blue green woods, called this season Danube
green" are finished in this way with a band OF
dark velvet in place Of the lace. veilines
finished with narrow black border and fringe
or black velvet and fringe This fringe yelling is i'm
ported in long lengths Of several yards to the dress
pattern indicating lis use as drapery.
Some Of the daintest fronts for cOlored wOollcrs
banded by striped lines Of cord caught down III
diamond pattern in COUGHING stitch still Others arc
banded ground with faille ribbons edged
with fine rosebnds, tiny lilies.
style in woollcn especially suitable for matinee
Or house gowns la, front banded by wide iaiilo
ribbon in white or delicate Color which is dotted at
intervals by large lots Of swansdown or swansdown
and tiny pendant tufts Of cocks feathers.
Sheer bcses for afternoon wear i'm summer
accompanied by front breadths which finished
to the depth of three quarters Of ward ia canvas
which is striped with black satin ribbon bands near
the foot or Ornamentcd in broken stripe nearly its
entire length, with bands IN several coors Of ,ubdued
antique hue.
Chalhes again imported in large and small
Gower designs and in cOnvcnuonalzc1 patterns
somewhat less struggling in design than those Of last
season.
shapes thus far imported considerably higher
than last season and the continuation Of fOwcIs and
fancy mateIiOls IN favor is confidently predicted.
Importers are showing in the wholesale trad. many
fancy straws especially ID Neapoiian combined with
Black hats Of fine fancy material probably trimmed
with fine close clusters Of flowers Will be the most
Large hats for carriage and country wear are again
shown and small English turbans for city street,
Only few colorcd s'raws are imported. The
bonnet will continue 10 contrast with the costume
q il now does rather than matching H.
Few pronounced color, are shown. 'Crevcttc,'
the new yellow. red called tomato" and the prunc
and purple shades ranging from DARK hi-lppa
purple to pale lavender tns all used in montulcs
OF flowers and other material, imported for trimming.
All dress goods and millinery trimming thus far
imported show that pruuc purple and the ddllhd
cOlOrs the prevailing shafo, next season. The
beautiful coquellcot reds are giving place 10 yellow
scarlet shades the exact color of garden tomato and
hence called tomato red. The vegetable kingdom
Is again honorcd IN the new dahlia color, uch
blacksh purple called auhcrginc cyg plant purple
bishops purple is somewhat lighter shade of the
same reddish Of color and these several shades Of
these cOlOrS end i'm the palc,t lavender tint. New
mOntures and Hover clusters for spring show all this
range Of Shade beginning with the dark egg plant
purple and using the more delicate tint only throw
out the richer colOrs. that The effect Of the clusters
is dark and subdued Blue purple, or prunc Shades
are represented by dark color called Iiorten-e and
SCI eral more delicate violet coOr Blue green. arc
again introduced under The name Of Dauubr color,
and there are moderate number u yclowI-h haze or