New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-06-15
IN SEVILLE.
AT THE GREAT FAIR.


n,aces: but the sudden showers which elsewhere
rro accounted as a matter of course at this season
SOON viciously sent to spoil sport at Sevllies
" rerian-the famous annual fair. 1t is on the
whole fine. warm spring. much like April ana
Nav in southern Georgia, with a little more
enar<le and freshness in the air. To-day began
with brilliant sunshine and continued TO De per-
foct 70 the end so of to-day shall speak
The first thing one hears in the morning IS
euro 10 be one Of the peculiar streercrles ina
perrachca cinco limones" five lemons for cent
was the cry that woke me this mornlhe-the
words set to a kind of drawing Drawing tune
Then followed other pedlers, proclaiming WIN
equal force of lungs that they had vegetables
cakes salt oranges. or what not. to SELL then
followed long line Of asses, braying and JanghnS
the bells that hung from their necks NO wihdo"
in Seville is so high, no inner room is so secure
that these matutinal noises will not enter II from
the street: while within the house Itself the
servants are forever screaming TO one another or
singing some melancholy, unmusical Moorish
sono IT, is a loud-voiced and rOugh-volced popu-
Iotion peddlinc. hee-hawng and shouting; but
ouite naturally the hours Of repose are not re-
snected here. seeing that in summer one sleeps
through the heat Of the day and is awake through
much Of the night. thus introducing kind OF
tODSy- tUrNeSuOm NultH ldS'S ih'i' VI 'N"S $3.50
the whole year. Whatever ones habit may be
elsewhere one wakes bctmes in Seville
After the inevitable coffee and toast, one is
ready 70 90 as the whole town is going, by the
nearest way to the fairgrounds.
Fortunately for Seville. the city was planned
and built by those who understood how 10 live
in n hot climate. There are many open plazas,
if is true. and a few wide streets but taken as
whole the city is network Of narrow tortuous
lanes. paved with square blocks of stone, passing
between close-built houses in the Oriental style.
we can still appreciate the wisdom Of the
Moors In the bright plazas and wider streets
the heat Of summer is intolerabe; while the dark
lanes are always cool. for even the hot wind when
IL blows cannot blow around so many corners.
Nothing less than a whlrlwind could wind and
twist as these lanes wind and twist An lntelli-
gent traveller can scarcely find his way with
plan and compass in his hand and with the adj
vantage Of being able to ask for direction every
few steps: so what can mere visiting hot WIND
do without such assistance?
Just beyond the tobacco factory and the walls
Of tho Alcazar Garden is great meadow. or
Prado where the fair is held. The western por-
ton Of the Prado was covered with an innumer-
able multitude of beasts for ssle-horscs asses,
sheep. pigs. gathered together from far and near
And there were family groups among the groups
Of donkeys for women and children lay on the
ground eating scolding and screaming, while
their husbands and fathers. in coats Of shcep-skn
and leathcrn brooches, were buying, selling and
exchanging. Those who dealt in horses wore
short embroidered Jackets and wide-brmmed
low-crowncd felt hats. beneath which the hair
was brushed forward over the ears and forehead
This costume is rather chic. especially when the
men are mounted and when the horses have their
tails and names plated and tied with colored
strings.
At the opposite extremity Of the Prado We're
many gypsies in group Of tents by themselves.
They kept restaurants Of rather curious de-
scrption. in which one could get chocolate and
coffee besides a peculiar kind Of sweet bread.
favored with honey and fried in grease, like
doughnus. Imagine long Of square tents
called casetas l. o. small houses Of canvas with
an iron kettle over fire in front Of each and dark
skinned women, dressed in gay calico gowns.
brilliant shaws and ribbons and white aprons
10 signify that for the time being they were
waitresSes-a harrelorgan stationed before one
cnseta a gypsy man and woman dancing, crowd
looking on /1precntively and rhythmcally clap
ping their hands 70 mark the time. These gypsies
retain their old kidnapping propensities 70 an
amusing extent. They will seize upon You a. YOU
pass ana 'FA 10 lfdG You INTO ineU TtSFiuIhu'N,
PROMISING a repast Of incredible delicacv-incred-
bc as the fortunes they tell. When alone,
escaped by ample manoeuvre namely. by maxi
ing a motion though 10 chuck these not very
lovely girls under their square jawed chins, which
is an infalliblc recipe 20 make n woman-even n
Spanish gypsy-bridle and draw back. But they
are wonderfully quick in reading character,
should say; for one OF the gypseS offered 10 tell
me stories during the repast. though her
! sharp eyes saw there was nothing IN the world
that could tempt ne like the promise 81 a good
/ foll;-Stov-Ibove all one Of the Spanish folk
stories. which are the prettiest, trsst most natu-
raj and plquant know-more true 10 nature than
the German. as full Of point and grace rs The
! French and told with FASCINATING mimicry. Min
icry is the Spanish national talent
Between the beasts and the gypsies there wa:
wide roadway with a broad promenade either
! side and q double row of cascIas extending for
! half n mile. The road was filed with carriages
| and vehicles of all descriptions some of which
were quite elegant in the English style but with
ont the English precision and finish. The coach
men and footmen in livery the box had for the
most part i-htting tall hats and slovenly boots
would sometimes smoke cigarettes while on duty
| and have seen them LIT their hats when some
ono bowed 10 their masters in the carriage. The
| ladies' were most showily DRESSED, in cht-colorcd
silks and all kinds OF delicate fabrics wearing
white mnntas for this festive occasion instcaC
Of the usual black lace. These white mantia:
are very expensive. and the general eXrravaga uc,
in dress shown to-day was quite extraordinary
Still more extraordinary is the explanation tha
| is given when one asks how such expenditure il
possible for one is told that even aristocratit
families pinch themselves for months, or through
ont the year. denying themselves the commences
necessities, in order to spend the money thus
saved on dress and carriages and entertaining dur
| ing the Fair.
But pray how do the women keep so fat II
spite of this saving and pinching process Herr
are the fattest women in the world, il seems Il
me in fact, the luxurious aspect of any aSSembl!
in Seville is due 10 the plump Sevillanas. | an
persuaded that thc Moorish element is more pre-
dominant here than is generally admitted. Tn