Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-09-06
GOWNS FOR AUTUMN.
Shirley Dare Gives Some Hints to the
Fair Ones.
FAREWELL TO THE PARASOL
Gossip In Which Women Will be Inter.
estcd-The Tiled Floor Cloth-variety
stage Effects 1t Fancy Fatrs-Thc
Question Of the Girl and the Bicycle.
Written for THE EVENING STAR.

| kCObtum6 IOr DepttmDer = pale Clotu
vdress with long coat or polonaiss Of
"Athe same material, open to show the
surplice waist and many folded sash Of 81 TX.
The original is the palest mushroom rye,
thicker than that worn for the last three
months, fine camel's hair chevron twill or fine
cloth half finished, not 80 glossy as broadcloth,
yet very smooth. The gown has the simple
English skirt, which is most appropriate for
walking. the front width having three wide
fiat bands Of guipurs embroidery in silk of
| u faint lavender shade. together with the mush-
| room tint, with lavender velvet laced in and
out between the bands. The waist is plain in the
back with surplice folds showing the neck. The
overdress is close fitting, but shaped by the scam
| under arm without darts, which are need
less. as the fronts do not meet at all, and are
held together only by tho folded band which
| initiates a SASH The wide lavender frill, which
| does duty for shoulder cape, is satin serge or
velvet. as liked. The deep forearm cuffs in
satin serge show in the slashings Of the full
| upper sleeve. The walking hat is very sensi-
bic, shading the face well enough to dispense
with the irritating parasol which is de trop past
mid summer. The only virtual excuse ever
| given for parasol three-fourths Of tho year
| was that of o very nice young woman, that she
| liked to have something in her hands to think
| OF. The parasol Is the ruin Of grace in walk
| Ing, for ne woman can move with firm, free
carriage when she has to bear canopy or
| pavilion to shade her sacred features. and must
| adjust 1t with respect to every other pavilion
sho meets But 1t is enough on the subject for
| women are quite prepared to exchange the
| routine OF masculine life for their own. but
not to give up the cumbersome parasoL The
| liked idea OF custom must be credited to the
| god of flies; the more useless tiresome thing
they are the more impossible to get rid Of
| them.
The second figure will also be pronounced
| stylish and in thorough keeping. The lines Of
| satin roleaux or Of ribbon velvet, or heavy flat
silk braid, relieve the light cloth skirt just
| enough, and the waist with its slight elegant
braiding. it's pointed belt in front joining the
| basque back Is one to make the best OF any
rounded figure. The velvet sleeves gathered
| by leaf of passementerie in a tressy puff
suggest good way to remodel plain coat
sleeves by adding this pulled trap and orna-
| ment. The old-fashioned caps and turned
back farlng cuffs to sleeves appear in the last
designs, but they destroy beauty OF an arm
| too completely to be encouraged. New gowns
| in lighter woods, auburn cashmeres and barred
| poopins have the plain long round skirt fin
| lshed by scalops, embroidered in the piece,
but preferably bound in silk braid, not coat
| binding.
HOUSE GOWNS.
| The continental house gowns have look Of
Polish or Russian TASTE with their half oriental
| tapping fronts, damasked overdress and loose
long girdles. They recall Marie Bashkirtseff
| and Ouida's bewitching, naughty conntesses
from the Black sea provinces. These soft-eyed.
| childish, submissive, cultivated women are the
| type most opposed to our painfully bright,
| half-taught American girls, who always seem
charged ready to explode The very graceful
| way OF wearing the hair which went out thirty
years ago reappears in the knot of rich curls
falling at the back of the head, style charm
| ing in young women no longer school girls
The cloth overdress, which il is the fashion
| to call the pelisse, very simply made without
braiding or trimming, is the style as long as
| autumn lasts but it is diversified by large col
lars, frills and capes of heavy satin, almost
| kld-lIke in thickness, or velvet. in contrast to
| the color OF the garment These additions will
| be In rich colors to give life to the costume;
collars deep as those worn in suits Of armor or
| collar-like capes will be seen in bronze green
plush on tawny cloth. or blood-red velvet on
| russell or purple on pale brown and fawn. The
| crimson velvet cape is chosen by young women
| when additional warmth is needed-sharp fall
| afternoons in driving. Later, velvet Jacket
mantles with long stole-like ends will be worn
| in tones to shade with the dress. A copper
poult de sole with jacket OF red brown velvet, or
u beige cloth dress with copper velvet jacket
are stylish. the hat in all Cases being of the
same velvet. Feather trimming very full and
| much curled will replace the passementerie
| and embroidery for out door dresses. 1t is
| worn round the neck and down the fronts of
| mdiities hHu ldCketS ike q D0a Dut without
| bordering the garment all round. Velvet
| sleeves. velvet yokes, collars and velvet show
| ing between the widths of the skirt two-thirds
| the way up are seen In the newest dresses.
| FLOWERS AND STRIPES
| Powered patterns and fancy stripes are in
favor, and floral stripes and figures are for med
in materials never seen put in plain colors be-
fore. A tan-colored Vienna cloth has long
| garands in copper, red and gold, which. with
rnlrn and rrrAla o.
| rich coloring for an indoor gown. Printed
| silky alpacas and mohairs pretty enough to
| console one for not being able to wear the stiff
gorgeous brocades. Figured delaines cash.
meres and cape cloths are beautiful in color as
| the Japanese silk capes and almost vie with
| them In softness. Sacques and aprons are
quietly resuming their places in a lady's ward
robe. These comfortable, convenient things
may be as fanciful and elegant or nice aAd
| tasteful as one pleases. and they add home
look to the dress. Aprons Of washing silk
| In plain colors-lavender, violet and soft blue
for choice-hemmed with brier stitch and run
ming down the seams. beside which pocket and
frill ON the lower edge may be Of white lace
Or the frlll is of two-inch ribbon, one satin
edge showing as finished. Black silk aprons
in softest hossy faille or the silk serge
nearly endlessly are embroidered in gay
| colors above the hem, on handkerchief pocket,
| and pointed band, which fastens behind by q
plain jet buckle, and long, wide satin ribbons
Aprons OF white linen with bands of drawn
work are for dainty house keepers and the
fancies run in red twill. blue linen and gray
with little embroidery in white and the same
| color in washing cotton or linen floss. Regular
working aprons for housekeeping and garden
ing look notable and artistic in honeycomb
crash, three widths joined by red and blue
veining stitch on the seams, with red and blue
or orange and brown border. These protect
the dress completely from rubs against cooking
utensils, sink rose briars and can be washed
easily and done up without starch. An artistic
house keeper 10 80 thoroughly charmed with
the sorviceable linen that she has designed q
working dress of it, loose enough to slip off and
on easily, and the material being heavy enough
TO need no Inning and the seams finished inside
with white braid 1t will be seen what q com
plete convenience it 10 for real work in studio
or pantry, which one woman calls her pie
studio"
USE FOB OLD SILKS
A woman who has several black silk skirts
which gave out together, entirely as the
deacon's oue-horse shay, past hope of revival,
was exercised to find some use for the rem
nants. They would not bear quilting over for
petticoats, but she kept them by her till the
| idea came to have them woven with bright
colors, as the silk scrap portieres are made. But
in place OF hanging them on the walls they are
to serve as . new sort Of bed covering instead
of quilts being very light and almost as warm
as down comfortabies. A thin washing blanke,
is laid over the sheet, then one or more OF
| these woven scrap comfor tables goes under
l fha an1 1tvlt al, l.