The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1890-05-07
ABBEvILLE'S SON IN A FOREIGN LAND
What He Saw and What He Writes
About.
NAPLES, March 80, 1890.

NAPLES, March -, $780,
Editor nr~ss md Banner:
=! Italy is the land of the sunny South" II
: a'.:o \ land Of nils, for South OF the level
valley OF tic 20 sLrelches the Appenninc
mountains from end TO sitifd;;-lleaylDg but Il
narrow strip of coas: on each side OF the PG.
ninsular 1t is on part OF the Western coast,
in the Riviera dl Levante that Genoa lies, and
IL Is to the shelteIing hills Oh the North and
the warm hreeZes from the South that along
with the whole of the Ievante It is indebted
for its mild climate. The Riviera OF the Lc-
vante extends from Gcn0a to Pisa, and affords
Il ride Of exceptional beauty to the railroad
passenger. The road runs almost directly by
the side OF the sea- and so narrow is the coast
that oft the waves are splaShing underneath
while above tower mountains now clad with
snow. The pleasure Of the ride IS much de.
tructed from by the fact that many tunnels
have to he passed through, in which Of course
the scenery Is entirely lost. Thrtycight In
all lie between the Two cities and scarcely is
one emerged from before another Is entered.
Pisa Is q quaint old town of some 10000 in
habitanLs and perhaps as much as any town
Of Italy may be said to live upon its antiqul-
ties. In fact TO the average visitor the Lean
ing Tower Is Pisa, and one Is quite confirmed
in this impression when on reaching the sta
tion he Is confronted by host OF pOrterS,
cabmen, etc., each Of whom is so mporiunate
as scarcely 10 add TO the pleasure Of the exit.
Although the tower Is but convenlent walk
removed from the station, 1t seems to be con-
sidered Us q tax imposed upon every visitor
that lie shall utilize cab and add one more
gain to tile thousands who live upon the indi-
rect proceeds Of the Tower. And well worthy
OF its fame is 1t too, this leaning tower OF Pisa,
rising l75 feet high and seeming ready every
moment to fail The first view Of 1t Is grand,
and when one stands beneath and glances ul;-
ture could have stood 700 years. But firm II
has stood and probably will stand for centu-
reS, monument 10 the fame of the bold
builders who SO built upon sand that the
house still stands. The top falls fifteen feet
gravity is so skillfuliy adjusted that the ten.
dency OF the inclination Is overcome. \
winding staircase through the hollow shaft
leads to the top and up it tolls every virtuous
pilgrim. But 1t Is not every one who has the
heart for the ascent as found from the cXpe
rlrnce OF my companion. The view from the
foot had SO shook his faith In the stability o
the structure that much persuasion was re.
quired TO spur him ON TO the venture. rs
each step was mounted courage sank lower
and as we emerged upon the top q sensation
Of thorough giddiness overcame him. Moth
ing was left but tn igDominuus return, md
MS fate would have II At that moment the hu:C
bells Of the tower commenced TO clang. The
terror OF the Wandering Jew In his flight
could scarcely have exceeded my friends az
0ny until his foot once more rested on terra
firma. The view from the top is fine, especial
, ly thedown look upon the ncighboriug cathc
dral and bartismal church which. like tho
| tower, are built entirely Of white marble.
Wishing to leave Rome for our return dur
Ing the Easter week we passed almost direct
ly on to EnpleS-a vcr!iable paradise at this
season in the delights of its climate Il Tho
beauty of the surroundings. No city OF Italy
except perhaps Venice. is so thoroughly orgi
nal in Its life and scenes as Naples. The city
| itself Is overcrowded, dirty and filed with tht
signs of poverty, but derives its beauty from
The views which surround 1t on every side
The promenade of all wealthy Neapolitans
! and resort Of strangers, Is the lovely Quarter
I OF the Villa Rationale, on the side OF the Gul
| ttNnI AL al IIsr.
every afternoon throngs the fashionable Soci-
ely, most in elegant carriages, in which they
drive up and down, meeting acquaintance:
and enjoying the unsurpassed view.
| In front lies the blue water of the bay famed
over the world for the exquisite color derived
from the peculiar richness of the Naples sky
while tn the left towers NcsurGS smoking
day and night. constant menace to the vii
lages at its foot. and lending feeling of awe
TO The whole nciShhOrhood. In the distance
are seen the rocks of the Isle of Capri and be
hind lies the town, hid by the high rocks o
st. Elma, which guards the city from the side
of the sea. The life in Naples is onderfnllS
interesting. In spite of the poverty and DIES
| lttutlon visible on every side there Is some
thing so picturesque and unusual in all tha
the eye is arrested on every point. Bright col
orS, quaint costumes and Southern aspect o
all, give to the streets an appearance whit
never ceases to interest.
, But the population of Naples IS unloru
nntcly sadly unworthy of the interest tina
they clulm. Idle, worthless and untruSt
worthy the masses are content TO live from
day to day prdying upon the ignorance o
charity Cf each whom they may impose upon
The streets tlirong with bcggarS. and they arr
importunate to Il degree scarcely conceivable
IN contrast to the quiet of The idlcrs tha
Slccp and bn>k In tile sun Is the res tlcsS ruSl
of the constant moving stream. The diSre
gard for hGrSc flesh Is something almost in
conceivable. and the pleasure Of watching th'
street life is much dctrnctcd from by the cru
city which Is exhibited by the lower CLASSES
towards their animals, most of which arr
miserable and small beasts that scarcely de
serve the dignity of the name Of horse.
/ Tuc most interesting institution is illc won
dcriul museum. which beSldGS handsome
picture gallery. contains II collection of nnil
uiticS from the ruins of Pompcii and llCrcu
lancum, which Is uneXccllrd. One c..n nj
most live in the past while viewing the relic
of the Old Roman days which have pasScl
down TO us so well preserved from the ravngc
of time. Here may he seen the very pcturr
land ornaments which adorned the habitaliOn
of the RomanS--thc utensils that they used
even the pctri:lcd remains of their very foo;
stuifs. Days would not suffice tn even censor
| lily study all that Is to be sren, and Il fund Il
here gathered for the beuefit Of history almos
unequalled. The collection Of statuary Is su
pcib und ranks favorably even with those y