Los Angeles herald., 1890-07-30
THE WINE INDUSTRY.
HOW SOPHISTICATED GOODS HURT
THE GENUINE ARTICLE.
"A Boston Man Tells Some Interesting
Facts Regarding These Matters-The
Effects of Adulteration.


cent date asking me to give my opinion
of the effect of the introduction of arti-
fetal wines upon the sale of the natural
and pure wines of the country, was re-
ceived. The inquiry, as made, is
broad, and it is impossible to do the
subject justice in the space usually al
lotted to newspaper article.
I am, and have for many years been,
engaged in the sale of California wines
and brandies, representing Messrs.
Chas. Stern & Sons, who have wineries
at Los Angeles and stores for distribu-
ton at Chicago, New York and Boston.
Having been in almost daily contact
with the trade for more than twenty
five years, l have had good oppor-
tunity to observe its changes, whether
for better or worse.
( have no hesitation in saying that
the appearance OF artificial and imita-
ton wines some years ago had an i'm
mediate damaging effect on the business
of the producer and dealer in the pure
product. Its first effect was to compel
reduction in price to a figure so low as
to deprive both of their profit, and as
a result of this situation, portion of
the trade have abandoned the sale of
really fine and good VINE, and deal only
in the spurious and manufactured ar
ticle. There are many honorable and
high-minded men in the trade who
would spurn such course; but the in
ability of consumers, as rule, to dis
tinguish between genuine and a COM
pounded wine furnished the unscrupu-
ious dealer with the opportunity to
dispose of his cheap compound at an
apparently low price, and still reap an
enormous percentage OF profit.
Another effect of this influx of falsified
wines is to throw somewhat of discredlt
on our trade as whole. 1t is a most
common remark that our goods are all
profit; that we can afford this, that and
the other extravaganza in business.
This idea has developed in many local
tiles into demand for most heavy and
exorbitant fees for license, higher
rents for stores and presents and per-
.quisites in every direction.
Still, again, it has become exceedingly
difficult to dispose of an old wine which
has received the care and nurture OF
wears, at fair and remunerative price.
The consumer, whether buying for med
ical purposes or not, demands so much
for so little, that he is often accommo-
dated, as he thinks, and deludes him
self with the belief that he has got a
really fine wine for less than its value.
But those who are engaged in producing
and furnishing pure goods, when offer
ing them for sale against these baser
a,roducts, hear nothing so frequently as
the reply: Eyes, we know what they
are, but our customers don't know the
difference. We can sell the cheap just
as WE'LL"
So much for the wine situation, which
might be greatly enlarged upon, ii space
permitted.
The manipulation of cheap spirits so
as to simulate California brandy, is car
ried on to most alarming extent. And =,
strange to say, the concocted article is
protected, and its manufacture is en-
couraged by the government itself.
The legitimate distiller of California
brandy conducts his business under the
supervision of the United States reve-
nue. department, paying ninety cents per
gallon tax to the government. The
compounder and manufacturer OF imlta-
tions of liquors receives his permit from
the revenue department. to follow his vo-
cation for year simply on payment OF
the sum of 5000. No limit is placed on
his business, and he may expand it as
much as he likes. Let us see how this
works in practice. The legitimate dis
tiller, owning works of only moderate
capacity, will turn out product OF
50 % 900 gallons. At tax OF ninety cents
per gallon he pays the government the
sum of 800 and releases this pure
product to 60 upon the market. The
..compounder who buys it has license
for year for the lump sum of 5000. He
mixes his purchase with cheap spirits,
smanipulates it, stretches it and reduces
it in quality and cost to the last degree.
He can then brand it in casks or bottle
it as choicest California brandy or any
other brandy, and he is responsible to
no one for his operations, as he has sat-
isfied the authorities by his payment OF
5000. The honest producer, as seen by
the above, is in no way protected by the
government, even after his payment OF
thousands of dollars, but he meets in
every way discouragement at its hands.
The general effect Of all this COM
pounding and falsifying OF liquors, upon
the legitimate producer and dealer, Is
one of discouragement. 1t has forced
some lnUO TuluOuS COlupcIlIioIi, aiu
has compelled others to endeavor to pro-
.duce wine at a low cost, thereby cheap
ening their product lowering the stand
ard OF their productions, and bringing
snpon the market large quantities OF an
inferior quality of wine, in place OF the
high standard of few years ago.
II you ask what is to remedy this, you
ask something beyond my power to an,
swer. 1t seems to me that individual
effort, as each man can use it in his cir
Gle of acquaintance, is our only resource.
SO long as government continues its
present policy OF licensing, and practi,,
. cally encouraging the adulteration and
, cheapening OF liquors, so long will the
markets of the country be glutted with
Scheap and deleterious compounds. When
tits, general policy towards our trade, is
changed, and its protection is extended
towards the honest producer rather than
the falsifer OF liquors, the standard will
be again raised, and the pure wines OF
our country receive the encouragement
thev deserve. H. A. Cross.
BOSTON Moss Julv 21 1890