Morning journal and courier., 1890-03-08


 lonian, @ Spaniard and an advocate; three kingdoms of egotism in one empire of as- surance. He shrugged his shoulders and gravely answered: "Spain is older than Palestine. Her fair color is faded triAe. Her people are grave and mournful in rspose
 because of the weight of their dignitiss. Spaniards are the first and greatest of men,"
 but the subject may be one of interest 10 those who come after me in Spain.
 There Is one important advantage, in the line of information, which my tramping in foreign countries gives me over the observa-
 tions of the precise and formal traveller. He proceeds with due stateliness from the lead ing hotel of one city to the leading hotel of
 anoter, where, barring trifing forms, he is
 served with the same visnds, prepared in the
 same manner, even if he should make a cir
 cult of the globe. In my humber associa-
 tions I perforce discover what the people of
 any country eat, how they eat 1t, and, pretty generally, how it is prepared. The people of Spain are never gourmands. Save in certain quarters in the great cities, the tables even of the aristocracy are not to be com- pared in richness and variety of food with stances. Practically there are but two meals each day, the desayuno or breakfast at eleven, and the comida or dinner at five or six o'clock. Ia the houses of the well to do, were you companion or guest, the breakfast room and breakfast would seldom be found more extravagant than this: The room has marble and stone Tagging, whitewashed walls, and perhaps a tiny fountain playing near the folds of the swapping cortina before vast and often iron barred window. Tho chairs will be of rosewood. mahogany or eb- ony, straight, tsll and comfortable; the table is huge and broad; it's linen is immaculate and fine; while its plate is grotesquely fig ured and massive. Flowers are often piled loosely on some odd piece of plate, and not stidy perched before you. There will be 8 few decanters of wine; as many piles of mer, several plates of fruit. Soup is served first. Meat and vegetables follow; and then fruit and wine are enjoyed. The entire meal is without formali.y, and both as to the order of serving and manner of partak- ing, is invariably to each indiyidnals ikingA After fruit and wine come. the cigar and cigarette; and during the entire meal, con- yersation, often extending to whimsical hanterings with the bare armed crtadas or serving girls, whom both the gentleman and lady of the house address as My daughter" :" seems to be, rather than eating, the chief aim of the family gathering. At dinner you will find the family habits quite as simple. The table ia. likely to be get nearer the window. It's linen Is fresh and snowy white. There are gallons of ice cold water in huge glass decanters. First, usually melons and the table-the melons already sliced to be handed around, the oranges pared and set near you by the dozen. Then the soup Is brought by the servant, still bare armed, but otherwise in voluminous folds of white garments. Following soup comes the universal puchero of the Spaniards, that stew of all sorts of fish, flesh. fowl and foI yvhioh ia faod drink oad desert among poor and rich, and which, with bread of the best quality and marvellous bounteousness, make the entire rspast. The common red wine of Spain is drunk out of old fashioned tumblers throughout the meal. At it's conclusion, from the quaint old side board, or quainter mahogany cup board, the hostess will bring glittering in tiny glasses, and all, including the servants, who assemble in the dining room a few moments for this kindly custom, partake. Then again come the cigars, cigarettes and a half hour of banter and rally, in the enjoyment of both of which the hostess often heartily joins.
 The regime of the lowliest peasant in Spain does not differ a whit from the one described save in degree. The puohero Is afforded. Little beyond this is needed or desired, and on the tables of the rich or
 poor no pastry or puddings are ever seen. The Spanish method of cooking fortunately preoludes these. No stoves nor ranges can
 be found in Spain save infrequently in the
 houses of the nobility, and at those more important hotels where wealthy travellers are entertained. In these the French cuisine Is ia vogue. In every kitchen of the middle classes, or cottage of the peasantry, will be found a solid brick structure built against
 the wall and with a flat top. Into this, from
 the interior side, extended little apertures,
 perhaps eighteen inches deep, with openings foot square. Round holes from four to six inches in diameter are cut in the top of each.
 These, literally "pigeon holes." are called hornillas. They are all the stoves the people of Spain ever knew. Charcoal is lighted in the hornilla, famed to white heat by wisps of rushes, or by the tiny fuelle or bellows, and all food is cooked above these, chiefly in cumbrous earthenware ollas or pots. The puchero is ordinarily made by simmsring for four hours finely cut Jumps of bacon and
 beef (often varied with bits of mutton,
 chicken and fsh) fin one pot. In another, briefly. all manner of edible vegetables are placed and stewed until tender, and to these are often added bits of chopped sausage or pork for seasoning. The vegetable mess is cooked low, that is, until no more than iui- cy. This is first placed in large receptacle, and the contents of the other olia, which nave alSO been c0OkeQ uutli CeuQ6f anO sRVO~ ", are turned over the former. The highest ambition of the peasant is that he may have bacon or other meat In his puchsro every day of his life; and any one who has parta- ken of the delicious and ssvory dish, with a good appetite whetted by miles of tramping behind the grateful act, will know how to honor his humble longing.
 But all Spanish peasants are not able to af. l ford the daily luxury of the puehero. Then other and cheaper stews, broths and soups ! take it's plsos. There is the bacallao herbidc or soaked codfsh and stewed potatoes; the rice stew of rice, oil, salt and water; the olla diversa, sort of puchero with whatever can | be scraped together for it's ingredients; the | potaje or pottage of oil, beans, potatoes, red pepper and water; his sopa de ajo or garlic l soup of broken bread, oil, salt and garlic | and that perhaps poorest excuse for food in ! Spain, the gazpaco. which in summer forms l almost the exclusive subsistence of the low. ly. It is composed of spring water, chopped onions, cucumbers and lettuce, broken stale
 bread, oil and salt. Fruits and liquors both of which at all times are marvelousll l cheap in Spain-the commoner pure wines
 selling in rural districts at six and brandy a eight cents per quart-become really a part
 of the food of the peasantry. Every morn ing on setting forth to labor all members o
 the family take copeta or tiny glass o
 brandy. or brandy in which anise seed hal
 been soaked, and munch a few crumbs O
 bread. This serves until the desayuno O | "a ohi11rop uhn ro