The morning call., 1890-09-28

Another. which was ordered a few weeks
ago for Miss Genevieve Ward, is of black
silk, with front and oyerseeves of silver,
the edge Of the overdress finished all about
with n narrow silver fringe, the full bod
ice tied at the waist with black and silver
ribbons. A young American who will be
dehutante in December, and WHO Is buying.
under the supervision of an aunt, an outfit
whereby European capitals are Sprinkled
with gold, has included in her purchases a
tea gown which in style is most original:
The material is silk striped in white and
deep cream. The bodice is made with a
blouse, and fastens on the left side under
the arm. The sleeves are gigot, and the
skirt plain in front and on the hips. The
overdress of deep daffodil yellow cloth fits
closely to the waist behind, but in front 1t is
open from the shoulders, where it is gath
cred above the arms in short, draped over
sleeves. The overdreSs has trimming OF
cream and white fringe and lies on the floor
in a short train. it is almost needless to add
that its future wearer is brunette of pro-
nounced order. Two colors contrasted enter
into most Of the pretty negliges. Pale anne
lhyst and deep purple, bronze brown and
blue. pale green and gold are the favored
combinations
With frost and the dropping of the leaves
we shall see the street dress begin to warm
itself with fur On the models thus far fin
ished the skirt is often tucked about the bot
tom, and below the tucks comes fur band
which has the appearance OF running com
pletely about the dress, and which indeed
often does so, but oftener contrives by a
cunning arrangement of draperieS TO skip
the plaits and avoid the weight and clumsi-
ness which are the drawbacks to fur garnl-
ture. Fur is used also as q narrow heading
TO puifS and flounces. and young girls whose
figures are very slender Will wear 1ur grdles
or crossed belts as well as furred collars.
The new tailoF-made gowns take consider
able fur trimming. They are most simply
ranged, the skirts gathered closely at the
middle OF the back, the jacket bodies hav-
ing one long furred TeverS and sometimes a
furred collar. Furred waistcoats are dis
played for slender women, both III light and
dark colors. A winter dress in shepherds
plaids is dotted with fur waters the size of
half dollars. Another is a cheViot check, in
black and green, is made with black iur
corselet cut in a double point, with tur cuffs
and collar. Plush aid velvet street dresses,
and more especially carriage costumes,
trimmed with fur, are likely tU be extremely
fashionable, made with plain tight skirts,
fur bordered and short jackets, with fur
cuffs and collars. Golden brown beaver
used on brown velvet is having in this way
great revival. Russian sable is fashionably
used on all materials and cOlors. A pale
gray velvet trimmed with sable, was fur
nished recently TO Christine Nilsson.
Long cloaks are reaching height OF popu-
larity never attained bythem before. Every
DOuY Is DuyUR tllcUl lO veal Ou cNcly pNsSi-
Bile oceasion-for evening, for the carriage,
for the street and for travelling. White cloth
cloaks are much seen, with overcapes of
strange design, or made elaborate by long
angel sleeves and high rutflke collars OF
white velvet and medieval girdles. Other
cloaks are in paletot shapes, with capes with
raised sleeves and having the shoulders COW
cred with plush Jokes, cut al Ike front and
back, and finished AZ the points with tasSelS
of silk aud beads. The newest jackets dis
dain loose fronts, and some have the back
and the high collar cut al in one. The
shapes are simple, with sleeves put in full at
the shoulders. and the decoration is very
generally narrow black braid in most intIi-
cate designs. When the braid matches the
coat in color little tinsel may be mixed with
it, but the bright CLEANS are never allowed
to show with enough prominence to become
ohtrusve Some Of the coats of three-quarter
length are cut in battlements at the bottom
and edged with gold cord, which forms the
trimmings of The Zap pockets and gauntlets.
Copyright, 1899. ELLEN OSBORN.