St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-07-27
Paris Letter.

CAA1 An w an army OF rides
eRNA&l/A WI cent butterflies.
6ME cSS@ well-groomed mar
~ EGxks&1lkl ried women in IT.
@AH%A reproachable toll
TESN9 cts and staid dow
wa Ea6Wv ayers fearfully
M| HiH y and wonderfully
EdlB hi made up form the
tllII MIak* contingent at the
Vlo llIlI seaside pFac es.
The men are not
a whit behindhand in the gay coioring
of their loosely fitting garments, which
are donned for the brief period of the
summers outing. Blazers well named}
of flaming black and red, yellow and
black or in solid cOlOrS are worn by
the men and are made in the light
weight silks or fine French fiannels.
The gilded youth reveals his penchant
for brilliant color in his belt or sash,
which, as the case may be, is of a Grim
son as glowing as an ancient orit1aIIlme
OF of yellow as intense as that seen in
mandarin orange. Some are striped,
some plaided, while others are polka
dotted OF figured in bizarre devices. !.
The English misses who cross the
channel are affecting the mannish
modes which prevail more or less in
that country OF underdone beef and
gray fog. The maniish misses are ar
raved in skirts so clinglng as to pre-
clude the taking of very long step.
They have stiffly starched shirts in the
pale pink OF blue ordained by the dud-
ish prince of the house of Orleans, with
picadillys collars whose sharp points
emphasize a danger signal for the
rash youth who might jeOpardize
their eyes by coming within apprOaeha-
bic distance; fourin-hand tie stabbed
with a riding cap OF gold is jauntiiy
knotted beneath the collar; the waist rs
encircled by the broad, cale.e sly folded
Gordon sash. and OH the head is perehed
sailor hat of straw or serge, or de-
mure pork-pie hat of aggressive checked
cheviot. These assertive STYLES suit the
long-limbed. rudy faced English girl,
but when aped by French demoiselleS
they are dismal failure. MI -
The demure French girl appears at
her best in the short-waisted empire
gowns cinctured with wide sash of
canton Grape or India silk with fringed
ends: the bodice is crossed iii front
over tucker Of very fine organdie or
embroidered nainsook; it is filled in
with an ethereal-Iooking plisse of chiffon
gauze or null. Instead Of the
sailor or derby, the romantic
looking Gainsboro. with nodding.
plumes the poke OF open work straw or
the tiny toque wound about with gauze
or folds OF velvet is seen. These toQues
are extremely small. and are almost like
melon-shaped skull caps, with knot OF
flowers OF bow of ribbon velvet OF a
chouX of lace or crepOn, through which
is thrust long gold pins OF Roman dag
gels. CapoteS grow infniteSmalty small
er, those worn by the leaders of the llaut
ton being scarcely mere than sheaq
dresses ornamented with an aigrette, q.
saucy bird OF gauZy-Winged dragon
fly. 81. .,,f1
The strings are mere apologies. the
bonnet being secured by long slender
pins, and the strings tied sovers the
breast and held by fancy pin. Tulie-
strings are more becoming than any
other, but they are expensive on ac-
count of being perishable; the damp
ness soon makes them as limp rs the;
oft-auoted rag, and they are subject. to-
frequent renewal. A torSade of velvet
wound with thick cord of gold OF silver
makes most coquettish and becoming
head covering, and moreover, utIllta-
rian one, which can be worn with al
most any toilette.
~
For yachting the latest thing is the
serge sailor hat; it is OF very light
weight, lined with head-band of oiled
silk and simply trimmed with serge
ribbon. fastened with a buckle OF en-
ameled gold. There is an under brim OF
fine straw to protect the eyes from
| the glare of the sun. These brims are
IL, t,t r,Nor nrs
red braid. The material defies storm
| and dampness, and these hats are alto
gether reliable and satisfactory. For
| steamer and overland travel they are
extremely useful, while not as becom-
| ing as those bereft of the protective
under brim.
Blondine crepe gowns associated with
pale yellow or Persian lilac are effect
| ively worn for evening. Women OF
aesthetic inclinations match these colorS
| to the shade of their golden, auburn or
ritian-red tresseS with fine effect. In
| the DAYTIME sthe toque is of the exact
tint of the hair, little point OF relief
being afforded by flower, a brilliant
hued bird or knot OF gay-colored RIB
bon.
An authority on artsayS that for even
| ing the gown should match the eyes.
| This is rather an arbitrary law, as the
eyes of but few women are OF a color
| distinctive enough to make becoming
tint in costumng. Dog collars OF wide
velvet ribbon, of metal and Jet are
| worn with the Iow-cut gowns, and as
the ihroats of but few women can bear
close inspection the collar is voted be-
| coming. The women remind one OF
| the heroine of a French novel. LA
| Femme au Collier de Velours," who
| wore the velvet band to keep her Sc
vered neck in position, she having been
the victim of the guillotine.
| ~
Necklaces of all kinds have been re-
yived. There are strings of gold beads
| or slender chains of Venetian gold.
| from which depend hearts or creScents
of moonstones. There are also Orna-
| mented pansies, forget-me-nOts or tiny
| roses delicately carved from pink coral
The Egyptian scarabeeS are Fashionable
for necklace pendants and are also setlI
| lace pins, as is the Brazilian beetle witt
its opalescent coloring. Quantities O
small jeweled pins are worn. IheY art
thrust through mohair jabots, pin Gre
clan draperies OF hold the recalcitran
loops of vagrant waist ribbons. lnfac1
the woman of the period bristles al
| OVER Will SttCh piHos SlCoo ah.u o'f,eNA-
which make her as dangerous Of contae
as porcupine in a bad humor. NINA
ture pins are extremely fashionable
and the woman who has a bona tid
ancestress in powder and patche
portrayed upon her brooch i!
very lucky and the eny
of her fellows. Imaginary ances
tresses can scarcely be detected froT
genuine ones and answer the purp0Ss
almost as well. Pins in the semblanc'
of vegetables are seen in profusion
among the prettiest being green.pei
husk, with peas of Roman pearl. Tn
radish, the cucumber and the Ilth
green melon, with heart of rosy enatIie
adorn the bosoms Of the fair sex, Will
others affect creeping caterpillars. gree
enameled toads and snails trailing thei
Shiny length over vine leaf set with
diamond dew drop.
Succeeded as a Collector of Debts
Another new departure in the lin
of business for women has been SUI
| ooccfuIJx, M odo Inv a uluokU ladv rpSif