New-York tribune., 1890-04-20
THE FASHIONS.
SOME FRESH AND PRETTY GOWNS.

The private drcssmakcrs and milliners who go
over 10 Paris London late in the and return
after the openings In the shops are over usually
hihit many distinctive styles snited TO refined New
fork custom. Some Of the styles OF the shops are
never worn by New-York women. but arc sold to
customers at the south and West. The attempt to
introduce dcmitrain for house dresses has not yet
been successful in Ncwlorl.. though house dresses
are made long enough lie the floor at the back
New York women OF refinement the best dressed
women on the continent. They are conservative ara
wear cooiS and adopt tylc, that are becoming they
Systematically refuse to be- made guys BY passing
whns Of fashion. Dainty, graceful and sensible
fashions are always success in this city.
Many India silks. crcpcs dc Chine, and sheer wool
lens, including nun'svcngs and hermann grenadines.
are being made up at present. These gowns are uni
vcrsally made over silk Innings finished on
a. carefully within 30 Without, each seam
being, Of course bound on the edges with ribbon
noteworthy feature OF the gowns Of this season IS
the absence Of waist seams. only the two side seams
under the arm being visible. In some cases even
these by trimming or spanish Jacket
fronts In order to accomplish a bodice which shall
appear to be moulded to the figure or drapcd upon 1t
without seam. perfect fitting lining IS necessary
made with the regular number Of seams The outside
Of the waist is drawn and pulled over this and held
60 as to insure proper result. II requires an expert
filter 10 do this properly and there arc many expert
fully this method Of cut. The shouldcr-seams of
bodiccs remain as they have been. sleeves continue
high and full above the elbow and close at the fore
arm. some drcs for the house are cut somewhat
lower in the neck than formerly. If the throat Is
round and fair the dress may be arranged ut the neck
to display 1t, hut otherwise. Refined women, of
course, do not dress low at the throat with
bonnet not even m the carriage. skirts
are about the same width a last season. and arc
f-apcl
English drapcry. which is severely simple. IS largely
used for street gowns.
\ charming house dress in white nunsveiling.
trimmed with gold and whi.e IS noteworthy for tho
artistic use II simple material The nun'sveilnc is
figured with woven polka dot through the centre. ana
boricrcd with fine striped band The skirt OF the
drcs, is arranged that the polka dot forms a
pyramid II plcdtinc- IN front. with panel, on each
side Of the striped yelling. while the dotted material
app'ars again at The back. The bodice i, mad" with
fun pcatcd front 81 the striped yelling. over which
fan, Close Jacket front of white silk and = ID en-
brodcry In open pattern. The high sleeves Il dotted
yelling finished with points Of The striped material
lc N AZ The top. and completed by narrow embroidery
in white and gold. \ full Jabo; Of crepe ls-c edged
with gold fall, over the cor-iec front and finishes
the ,lccvc- \ charming drc,, is in white India slk
figured in dainty oolors With an allovcr pattern OF
convent .onallcd Hover and leaf The bodice j.
finished with a fun ,hrrcd vest coming to a point
at theWai,t mc Il wa, All excellent example OF the
seamless bodice. the deftcsi art being displayed in
drapins Tho figured silk with fine eject Little
ro.ciie, n group, f thee are made OF the narrowest
plcot edged ribbon. In pale tomato.r'd. olive and
lettuce srccn- and all tho other colors Of the silk
trim the bodice on one SIDE of The vc-t.
The .hri of The dress J., fullg drapcd and finished
al tho bottom q the front breadth with ruchc
of the narrow riaon. This -hiri I, fastened over the
bodice and finished at the top with carei 8, sash.
which B.. fastened at the back under large rosc't'
81 the many ,oorcd ribbon, ihs ro,ct'c To- hold
up tle back drap.slc~ \ dainty combination = color
thl, season &. llru1 violet. with pale spanish yellow
the DIE dor y the French. \ charming little gown
i'm spanish effect wl. lately made u black slk figured
with violet, and combined with pale yellow six voled
with llaca E,curia lace. The bodice was composed
of tie lace over the yellow daped with the silk
across The shoulders and down th" front IN scarf
effect. Tie large leg % mutton .lccv"> We're Of the
silk. The -.lrt composed of tine sh. but drapei
~ IN front to show band u black Lace ard yellow
.la and finished af The back with n- rious Of black
lace showing the yellow slh nndcr.kirt through.
gown ~ black India silk win rose figures was made
up In coi-hinnou with panel, of black lace over rose
pink. \ feature Of TIE drc,, bclns a smart little
iolcso Jacket Of black lace over rose silk
There seem, already - be reaction ~ public taste
against iuc flower bcdcncd bonnet everywhere seen.
simpler ionncts with q fcw choice fine flower,
mingled with other trimming, are preferred hy ladies'
o The best taste. and lar,r hats tip, viii be chiefly
u-Dd. \ dainty lt'c bonnet %. woven cras, IN
tobacco brown j., embroidered with bronze bead, and
simply trimmed with fat fo,icd bow laid ON TIE
lrlm and a little cluster Of fine ivy spotted vlih
brown and a f.w pendant purple hairhc.ls. \ white
iosuc OF nuc ru-'aiora straw Is entirely w'hon;
noncf- lui is trimmed viiA scarf. of brown
Grape and lemon tissue mingled and cushf
down hy golden buckle aud ltio bunch Il natural
tvIss with cai bud, \ hnr Ncopoltan hat in deli
cat. pearl gray is trimmed with loop, Of pearl cololcd
o.. .uc aid pale pla. ciry -nihemunf.
u .. upo- .ihlc TO say what viii be- In the most d.
mand. flower, feather. when the -ummcr season
op'D.. Already many LARGE hat, with projecting
mim,. With the trimming. entirely composed oi tlp-.
have been ordered. Thee bat, especially bccon.
Ing To- flr young girls, They ar Worn chiefly ln
browns hlnch hiuc ard other c,lors e. match str'et
suits. Tor travelling there are togHc, trimmed with
wing, in shade, Of tc costume. high crowned Enci-h
tufl al, vith rolled hs.u. aud man, other shape. e.
be- severely Trimmed wth velvet and jet or velvet and
ribbons. some Other dispensing with Hover.
which soon become ,pilcd m tho du-t of travel
JcNcliy wa. nc,cr more fascinating than now. The
pendant. brooch or hals ornament Of diamonds is the
most popular piece Of jcvcry At present. u icp'c
sent. al three pieces ia for D, clever arrange
mclt the pin may ic removed and it be
come, pendant o. hlrpn. or brooch
he most popular shape prhaDi, the star neat 10
th, the -un ana NEXT the crescent. In combination
~ pearl, and diamonds such piece be- ,pnnd from
ST., up to Thousands ~ d"llar,. The fancy in thi'
country D. FIR pcc. whi'h Ac value is cNprc--cd h'
diamond. II inr and size rather than for thc more
artistic piece. scir' rnt delicate workmanship
Int who" value NAV Watcr with Fashionable fancy.
other ,uir, Of pendant, and pin. are almost number
c-s fhc true i,s,g- knot and tso lcarts. the o"ch
in love token the French honr d. s vith the crown
aud lille, Of NilI or without either the double ho"
knot aud mnuy oihcr fancy Dc isn~ traced IN fine
diamond, among them. Ihcr" arc tiny bow KNOT
oi diamonds that used chiefly rs bonnet pins at
SO.
\ parr of the coa arms ~ the Douglas family oi
Scotland crown and two hoarT-,ci rather ohhGn'h
recall, the ancient privilege Of thl, family 10 bear IN
battle the rDyal II scotland and the memory oI
the grim carl Who bore The heart o. Erucc 10 the HOW
Land The exquisite brooches are male oi "'arh
in four or nV" different color, -ct VITA daHoH''.
The most heautful silver gray pearl, come from thr
Guf Of California. and some of the most hean'H"' III
descent ard rose ana lavender pearls from Nl''ohslh
fresh water uniondac.
Thanls arc drr to Nine. Frame. Miss Milne and