Telegram-herald., 1890-11-26

freat that ltdkatsa conuVisl hzh-
- hnls g. tha osnss drivers
s@re ei4iaeriuk FOR patronage BE mAaa-
i~iied a. az a cod ih4itsfslee, AZ
eoi4ss9 asnsy be hA1 a fall loae before
.as gtqeF reiieH. o4s eVxn a s2ftsE
I heh as eompetifors T. ksd, saying
iots g. 0Aa 20 Ecs. q. Id a zen q arm
sas called up. He demanded a b sc ne
al oaf 1HTsF Iaae hiM a tsrisss re-
eiy tnal maae the GI1cer fairy dauce
sth sske. Then sne driver gave b0ta
norzrs stluz a cIt Win lhs wnips
and - led "1al nA-ni e-s-s. s-e-e-e-t.
one horss gave an awfui plunge snd
feii down na.ie the other buckeG ana
broke ths rotten rope traces. such a.
explosive yoliy 0f Franco Isul0nic cuss
soEds Was never heard IS our lenu let
on 90 this dlsasteg. The oficeF ordered
hin 90 come Of dis perch, and he re-
Ehed sith = ssars OF drunken digniiy
The conversation VAS u French. and
tnose Or she passengers who could not
understand seEe quite alarmed, expect
ing 81 D. m4rcaed of 10 pr.sea. p
naliy after a great deal OF EesticulAI-
.ng and snPping OF rs s"oIa
niit BY ths OT1ceT, the driver pFOd0ced
an OH oil head az A hotel. lie vas al
Owed 10 drive ~ - Hotel De / Europe
ana ordered % fspOrs 20 the project OT
police Our hotel fronts on the great
cathedral square. or Pace Vert s. IL Is
called, and alter securing apartments
and breakfast, We fail into the great
stream OF humanity that Is pouring uto
the church. The doors OF the cathedral
are covered with leather upholstery and
Ike every thing else about II, they
seem badly N need 0i repairs. Hun
dreds OF st0lld Flemish faces are turned
toward Us as ~ enter, but there before
Us against the wall OF the transept Is
tnat glorious master piece of Rubcn's,
The Descent from the Cross" and We
stop - gaze ia silent wonder. The
picture is familiar 70 the whole civilized
world, as the number OF the engravngs
of lt are countless. There seems 10 be
a grOssness about all OF Rubcn's figures
that Jars upon the senses until one con-
slders the time in which he lived
and the stout Dutch burghers by
whom be was constantly surrounded.
Each one OF the men IN the picture
looks as If he could carry an OK around
the block and eat him at the end Of his
Journey. Their limbs and bodies are
Oulgng with exaggerated muscles, and
look not unlike bundles OF bologna
.susagos, but the faces are strong, full
OF character and stirred with powerful
emotions. The greatest marvel OF all -
tbs magnificent coloring. For nearly
three hundred years this picture has
hung here. The hand that made It has
crumbled into dust, and the soul that
conceived IL has been III Paradise these
200 years, yet the colors laid on by MS
brush seem as rich and As delicate IN
their tones as when the picture was
first finished. Blues that can never be
equaled. except in the heavens above,
and reds that put to the blush the car
nation and the rose. The Descent
from the Gross" IS covered by gilded
case, the front of which is pair OF
gothic doors. On the inside OF these
are pictures hardly less beautiful tnan
the masterpiece, especially the one
representing Simeon snd the Christ
child.
Above the great altar of the church
is the famous Assumption OF the Nlr-
gin" Like all of Rubens' females, she
ls weil-fed, motherly-looklng soul,
with q smile OF holy eCstacy upon her
face, floating amld.a group OF cherubim
in a sky of wOndrous glory. la the
north Irsnsept IS another picture, the
Elevation OF the Gross" that Is not as
popular az the masterpiece, and in one
Of the tiny side chapels is a small PFC
ture, "Tne Resurrection" The pre-
siding spirit over al Antwerp Is Ru-
bens, and the yeneratiOn OF his MEM
ory "a instilled into the Ind Of every
child in the street.
The cathedral IS 500 feet in length
and $50 feet wide at the transept. The
space was so we'll filled that We found
It necessary to take our places near the
western extremity OF the nave, and from
that point the service at the altar was
lost, SO fsr as We were concerned Now
and then ;he intOnation or the service
would come echOIug back 20 Us ike the
feeble vail Of an infant, and through
the cloud OF incense we could dIstin-
guish a number of puests moving
about in vestments OF scarlet
and gold, out no Intelhgible
sound came TO our ears. Almost over
our heads, IN the recess between the
nam towers, was great organ and a
splendid choir. All about the church
Ahs
half OF them were of the ordinary style
and tns other bali were very high
backed, and st the highest part OF the
back vasA little pls ssOTm about sx IN
ches vide. The sedentary portion of
these chairs was only SIX or eight inches
from the floor. and thsy were used IN
this way: A wOrshiper would come IN
and sit down IN the ordinary CHAIR, and
pull the low sea ted affair up IN front OF
Dim. Then he would tumble around
IN his pocket, haul out a prayer book,
and wn~n the proper place was found,
ne would kneel upon the low seat, US
ing the listls platform for a desk, and
get a-grluding' At his eevotODs. One
OF ths ladiss OF our party dare not
say when one-fseling no interest IN
the service sns could not hear, determ-
med % pay strict attention 70 the
portion that she could hear
the singing. She took one Of the chairs
sud as it down facing the singers and
planted herself IN it with great com
plscspcY 10 enjoy the MUSIC then
for the hrst time noticed A large msn
n uniform stridiug about The church
with az ar Of self-mportsnce. that Ar.
/ BUNDLE, the parss besdie, could not
have sKcellsd In ms spslmiest days. he
wore a tremendous cooked hat thst,
With 20 profuss decorations, would
have made any ord .nsry man round
/ shou .dsred. and a sssh and bsldrlc IN
keeping With the hat, secured a huge
swor3 n hIs side. In ais hand be bcre
= tai ard snohbY cokiug stat tnat
would Be sure 90 carry CT the honors
OF the dav at q Tipperarv far. ms
| officer. vho IS called a suisse. marched
over to the lsdy IN question, tapped