St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1890-04-27

Gd1BG fetc him Last sum
mer a few mOdiSh
girls donned the stiffiy-starched chemi-
settle and four-in-hrnd tie, but it was
not generally adopted. This summer
everything is masculine to the last de-
gree. The most popular jacket is the
blue or tan REFER with sailor or
Byron collar tied over the bust with a
soft black scarf or secured by frog or
single button. Beneath this the waist
coat asserts itself, being generally of
silk or figured pique. and low cut so as
TO reveal the piccadilly shirt. which is
no sham but the real article with
the bosom of dotted, striped or
pleated percaIe, and either silk
tie or narrow embroidered
one of white lawn at the neck,
With this is worn strictly tailor-made
skirt, generally of Scotch cheviot or the
Serviceable English homeSpun; en- pas
SAINT. it is well to note that the machine
stitching Is again used on cloth and
peared, quite short to be sure, and
either stitched or cut in battlemented
squares long enough to turn under and
form Topped edge. The drapery hook
ing upon the back of the waist is again
fashionable. The dreSSmakerS use all
their skill in their endeavor to make
cOrsage appear as if sewed on the form
and not fastened: to produce this effect
they are either brought together and Sc
cured beneath the left arm with invisi-
bile hooks and eyes or with small but
tons concealed by draperies. Many of
the bodices of the imported costumes are
fastened up the back, no buttons, how
ever, being visible.
| pofbnr ic 0mOOG fhp newest aponSS0-
fies of street toilette. A handsome
gown Of tan-checked cheviot, having
fans, cuffs and collar of russell calf, just
like that of ones valiSe; tiny straps and
buckles similar to those used on harness.,
had the pleatings on one side, and the
waist was fastened with bullet buttons
6t leather.
Transparency and lightness are no
ticeabIe features of this seasons goods,
the old-time Hermann and sewing-Silk
grenadines being wrought in novel de-
signs both in cOlOTS and black. Some of
them show black stripes alternating
with satin Of some pale or vivid color,or
They are black with br0caded patterns
OF tulips or lOng-Stemmed roses or in
IoZengeS, interlaced rings or Vermi-
Eeli design. For rich watering place
costumes they have almost superseded
black lace, being more durable and
newer.
The Mexican grenadines, in solid col
nrS, bOrdered with white, OF some con-
traSting tint, are again liz the market.
hS are also the useful iron frame grena-
dimes. The Punjan silks are as lovely
as if painted by the brush of an artist.
yellow jonquilS StreWn over a black
ground. trailing wiSteria or great Gloria
dc jon roses in brilliant tones being
among the most striking. These silks
are made with greater prOfuSion of
Grapery than they were last summer,
for the soft fabric does not look we'll ar
sanged iu the severe pleatS so generally
worn. Point de Genes or Venetian
is trimming much used on the light
silks. but they are as often finished
with only few ribbon loops or softly
folded sash. HcmStitched India in ivory
white is very much i'll vogue for young
ladies evening gowns, and also for tea
gowns and matinee petticOats. For sea-
Side gowns the lightweight crepe tian-
nplS and Scotch flannelettes are just the
Thing, AS they are able to stand the crucial
test of the waShtub and come out fresh
and ;;niniured each time they are lauu-
dried.
The Habutai wash-silks are very pop
fular for country costumes and for tennis
and boating purposes. They wash as
well as a piece of white muslin and are
dcliciously cool and comfortable; they
are also used as blazers and blouse
waists. and with these is usually worn
Il silk fOrc-and-aft cap TO correspond.
HheSe little caps are arranged in soft
folds about the crown and many of
ahem arc Tam DISH anters caught at the
left side with a cord and fluffy silken
faSSel on top. GlOriOsa, mixture of
silk and wool, comes i'll changeable
aintS. 1t is yard and half in width,
and is used for both dresses and travel
ing listers: it is not easily crushed, and
has the desirable property of shedding
ihe dust. ChallieS, mouSSelineS de
1aineS and Carmelte dortes are charm
ing fabrics for watering place gowns,
and they are patterned in the gayest
colorS imaginable. often on black
grounds. For the country nothing is as
stylish as the wash fabrics, the jac-
Ouard ginghams, with designs copied
from old tapestries, being the most
beautiful; there are dreamy old blues
figured in white. faded pinks, service
able Japanese blues and cool grays.
Slk-Striped ginghams are very dainty
and are guaranteed to wash perfectly.
These materials, however, are almost
as costly as the India silks, and, when
fashioned by the deft fingers of a
French dressmaker, frequently cost as
much as $50 or $50. They are regarded
10y wealthy women as much better form
for out-of-town wear than any other ma
terial, and they are willing to pay for
them accordingly.
Hats are Of very eccentric shape, most
of thCiarge ones being fiat and loaded
with an excess Of trimming, in which
the aubergene shades, yellow and green,
predominant. ToqueS and bonnets are
cIose-fitting, with low trimmings
consisting either of velvet, few
butterfly bows of ribbon or a tufl
or garland of flowers. The floral toques
are becoming rather common, although
they are more dreSsy than anything
else. Strings are seen OIL all hats, even
The broad-brimmed ones, and are TIED
loosely on the breast; they are generally
of narrow satin-faced ribbon velvet
The costume illustrated consists of 6
redingote of mauve and faille grena
dine. worn over skirt OF pale yellow
taffeta lace. bOYdered at the foot witt
cream empire lace: the graceful drapeC
'front.' is of cream mouSSeline de chiffon
edged with lace and caught on the lief
side with Il rosette of mauve ribbon; tht
waist is draped and two broad revers O
wired lace come from back of thu
shoulder seam.
The stylish hat is of black Milan
braid, faced with amber gauze, with
full panache of black ostrich tips. 1t i
exceedingly stylish for driving or TO
she seaside.
New hits in Hats.
Cream. dove, eeru, reseda Milan
--.....- I, 1 L., IN lint lod :,