The Portland daily press., 1890-03-08

pREssMAKERs' MASTERPIECES.
Striking Costumes made for Fa
nous Women.
rCorrespondence Of the Press

Correspondence OF the freSSl
NEW YORK, March 6.-This past week
has been a suggestive one for those who
have the entree to the private rooms of
the high class dressmakers. Some of
the very handsomest gowns are made Of
what seemed the least promising mate
rial. | saw one dress made for Mrs.
Chauncey NJ. Depew which was partic-
ularly elegant. 1t was made of gray
serge, trimmed with black velvet, and
thick fringe of dark gray across the
front breadth, which was slightly lifted
in front, showing simulated petticoat
Of velvet. Above the fringe was fine
I'LL .sll gimp passementerie.
There were two plain velvet panels, and
the back was pulled in and hung in simple
straight lines. The waist was of velvet
in the back and in front it was "let in"
with serge, each plat being edged with
silk passementerie. The sleeves were of
gray faille, plated to deep cuff. The
dainty little capote bonnet was of black
velvet and white ribbon. The muff was
of velvet to match. Mrs. Depew is in
half mourning, and this custom is equally
suitable for that, or it is not necessarily
SO if bit of color is added to the bonnet.
Miss Nellie Hargous is called one Of
the best dressed young ladies in New
York, and she certainly is che of the
wealthiest and prettiest, and the ot.,her
pretty and quiet costume was made I'D
for her in dark pruhe ladies' cloth, trim
med daintily with narrow castle braid.
sewne in Greek key pattern. The front
is cut princesse pattern, the sides being
plain from shoulder to foot.
The front breadth is set in under the
trimming of the waist in kilt plating and
the back is finished in the same manner.
The gown fits to perfection, and is set off
by one of the new "shepherdess" hats.
Some call them "Doris" hats. They are
of satin finished straw, very flexible
and rich, requiring no face lining. This
hat is in dark prune, with old gold rib
bon bows and plumes. 1t mi@ht seem
that this is rather daring cont rast, but
it does not appear so at all when worn.
With an ordinary princesse wrapper
pattern any clever lady could make
gown like this. Ladies' cloth is now
from rs cents to 81 per yard, A inches
wide, and it only requires about seven
and half yards for such a dress. A
good quality of cashmere, camel's hair
or silk warp Henrietta would all be suita-
BILE materials, and the color could be
whatever the wearer preferred.
A dress was just finished for Miss
Dora Leslie Lyde, Elsie Leslie's sister, of
ffty lAr.
slightly draped, and all around the bot
tom rich passementerie in black silk
in Eiffel points At the right side there
was panel of nanon plaits. With this
was to be worn terra Gotta walking
jacket of beaver cloth, with black passe-
menterie and rolling collar and cuffs Of
black faille. A hat of felt of the same
shade as the dress, with plumes of the
same, make up taking costume.
Ladies cloth, tricot or any smooth sur
face goods would look well in this style,
particularly the brilliantines. Terra
Gotta and old rose are the proper COM
plements to this in color.
The elegant long wrap was Just finished
for Mrs. Ella Wheeler Wilcox, who knows
how to dress as well as to write poetry.
1t is of rough surface tweed, in banana
brown, with front and back of wood
brown velvet. The sides are trimmed
with quaint scroll pattern in silk en-
broidery of the two shades of brown.
The sleeves are full and have cuffs of
velvet. Down the front and around the
neck and at the bottom are bands of
ostrich file, shaded from cream to brown.
The quiet richness of this garment can
hardly be described. A pretty toque of
brown velvet and cream tips and pearl
gloves complete the costume.