, 1890-05-22
HEROES And SAYAGES
No Peasant Farmers in That
Country.
ALSO LITTLE LANDED CAPITAL
All Southern italy Is PASTORAL
The Uttor Absence OF Homes
Peasant Life.
[copyrishtsd, isoo.l

BKrxpIsI, Italy, April 81, 1890.
Partly on foot, partly by the
antique cabriolet Of provincial
Italy, partly by lcttigs, the ancient
lsctia on litter Of the Romans, and
partly ON thc backl Of tiny dSnkeyr
u wondrous shsgginess and mar.
vel0sis power, have come, during
The nearly two weeks since leaving
Naples, In zig-zag course Of about
400 miles, across the infrequently
travelled, little known, ever weird
and lonely, vet always transcend.
entity beautiful peninsula Of South
efn Italy.
This territory is that Of olden
Alpulia- Once Il was . part OF
Grsecia Msgna. Its great cities
Were Arplnum, LucerIa, Arpi and
Canasiuu. In the little time was
wandering through ApulIa, /
counted upwards Of 800 castles, mod
srn, medieval and In ruins, str.ik-
,ineIy recalling the splendor and dc
cay Of Ireland; stood among the
nv remaining relies Of CANINE,
Whsrs the Romans met their crush
Ing defeat of j. Z. 2l0, and where
Tie historic city was finally de-
. o(xoyed In loss, by Robert Gulscard,
ons q Tasso's heroes; saw Barl, upon
1he Adriatic, still famous, IN In the
Time Of Horace, for its fish, and
loifered In the auciont abbey and
ehurch Of st. Niccolo, where are
3cuno tne pointinRs OF one OF the
earliest Italian matters, Vfvarini,
md wharf. IN fO86. Pope Urban II.
hoId tha fhmo,,s coupcil which
~.,...-,.t =, ,-c,vciI. t1,a chr~,,, -
<~'- srs ~
0tsysso WIN tnat o. noHei tthhpeu
WIN genuine Atailaii trRmp--tne
0rnt and only one OF the species OF
which l have ever had knowledge--
afroes the Campi Vcteras. where. n
frioe ~ > r5f, vs.r~ aimee procons,I
Tthsr,,s. er,,rori,,s ssrcchus fsii
.Icess, ~ ~. nravious and ,,r.,,s.. !.
<,.... ,.,,,s,,i ,i.,r,"s,, r., thc ,riiv f,,c..,
49, ITns,s,s sws,. p.,,cnx" y,h.',', !, :,
~srthcu.Sr in 1a,r IN m instant
.,,sr,Ss cf,,r.J ovcr A ooo Svaa Ls .nJ
S.,.ss.~ S,s,,s, .n,rnSetIons cosso'
,s,,s ,,,,,,,, ss.,,,md,. ,'assad ,,,ro,,.sh
SrJa lii, ~ ..,nsin,p,s p, ssa's,a - r.
IA n ..-,s'a,, ss.s,.,.a;rrs -, *. ~.
fsrct M scicsno Nontc Vmit,ya Tho
1x,,,,,,o,, V,,If,,,s, ~ rfo,,, .,.b 90,
~ro,cr overorown with gig.ntic
~,',rs .,,d h<nst,as no,v con ,,.i,ss NC
inkra. n.rch..d above, one ~ which IL
|Shr u,dsst ccrje rnonnsferv m Euronc,
no~slblv exccptInr Mouserrat. In
kmip. and from whose walls i could
discern the blue waters of the Medi-
rfanean on tme wes.' nna tposc OF OF
ne nu,." ..,,m n, ~ h'.,Irsj m % ,.t,,r,, .nrnue
in~ low,iv niIgrims canning with
them by the roadside at night. into
1'annto, the ancient Tsrentum of
tho Greeks, whose wondrous wealth
gave y intM luxury, anu IN Time,
n9.'v., no ~. ',ss,aos anu rum, ,n, Mnsn, ~
soii ri ool, ~ " nppnic into slavsrv.
and. finally. crossing the caster,
mountain range of Otranto ON foot,
had the pleasure OF setting my sub
etantiai Americah so'e,ieather Ior m
eAh,e.lng ,., uanp y, .sn iIai' ,n
nnss uPvn .ns snnic aPpnen way
S.,s.-., ~ ~ 49,. 9.,ssai,t 49, sl,'
rom SuPul ~ nIIno'ri Wnich sten-
tcrinn - vss9S,csoI,ans nsVe 30 many
.s,mes .,.aoS ~ VIZ; o, ive.ns ,at
a xnoae 5p..s,lsu wiIn my own uny liu as
x,Ins LIN c"uiu nnvc sven ~ uis-
tlnsuisIiou l,ievcceo, ns boraee
Enen "a tne tInn ol siHcenas ne
tsegeo hiong lne sanle stony roau :"
ecuro n.ctAAy svocP u. thg coh-
clufi0i OF oertHin iauious aihahce
pet"ech
AUGUSTUS AND ANTHONY
- T.reptum put one has onnor-
s....,.., A.. .h,. 49,, - ,a,sa.,. 80
suhay n 'ns T'i' VI ,ons "
eoe z'VV years tnis side OF the mytns'
heroes and savagery or a time our
classics have Inysticlsed, deified and
olcrified. You feel like sitting with
the carrattaio "a his cart and ox or
..,s - '',s,.,- H., ~ r.,,.a,r.
su's sio "1s '"e un'"'
chmoing TO the shrines with tne
dusty pilgrimsi waiting by the
montatojo OF mounting-block with
tl,e ,,egg.rs Mt y.vside inns. u,ak-
49, ~, s.,s.s "a e,,.a a., ~. ,,,,<,
s 81
the ihoesior oi caoihs ior urhughts OF
sslun ~ n,vs anu inhhIa, ue
outtoritiiIh aI,c ,coruhse-"a'er, which
you chn Always get IN thc
country ior soIdi or ! American
cent; wihuihs along tne craggy
ways WIN tne pecore ana MS nocks;
pecon.ng 'ue ,oh.panion oi .he
companion oi ule vignpo or vine-