New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-03-23
BITS OF WOMANS TALK.
WHY TAILOR-MADE GOWNS COST so MUCH.

never more clearly illustrated than in the prices
charged n leading talor's establishment in this
city. Complete suits Of chevio in three pieces. are
made mp for men at from $50 to f35. While
woman's gown Of the material Will cost $'5
finished with cheap cotton Innings; with silk Innings
II is go. II takes about twice as much mater1a,
for womau's gown for the mal's suit, but TINS
is small item and would not add more than 20 per
cent to the cost. The chief reason for the higher
price charged Is that there IS very little compe-
trion among the taors who furnish women with
dresses. \ tailor gown IS regarded even now by
ordinary buyers an eXtravagant fancy,
and this sentiment without doubt affect,
prices. The tailor gown sold In shops where
ready made dresses reailed is TIC barcst make
shift for what it prctends 10 be. The cheapest
cloths, cotton Innings and machine made button
holes part Of its MAKE up. Business women
and who desire to dress neatly and plainly.
who wish strong. daintily made gowns. which Will
endure the wear and tear Of work. find they must
pay cXtfavagaut prices to supply their needs.
1t IS for the interest Of the radcsman that
womcns dresses shall be made in such a not
TO last too long" and in many they seem made
80 that they Will ont fast possible. The
price a trlstworhv1 drcs,matcr (where such
be found charges for making plain dress Is never
les than so. and l. generally go. The man
woman Ia, "a fortune waiting who will engage com
potent worl.men and establish huge retail store
for ,upp,i ing women and school girls with Jackets
i-hed and well lined as those now sold TO men
Their, are such establishments in London There
/, nothing more fixed IN the unwrltten laws that
govern American trade than that whIms should be
paid for. and the tailor gown is apparently still
regarded a whm.
The sleeve has become finally the most picturesque
accessory Of the dress The high sleeve grows grad
uay larger the top and closer at the forearm anu
promise. finally reach the huge dimensions oi mo
Old lex mutton sleeves which have long been the
wonder and Amusement of those who possessed specl'
mems Of their great -randmohcr'S satin bodices. In
those the sleeve reached well over the hand and
wa, supported At the top By pillow Of down. Already
hitls pad, are used support the top Of sleeves Of
sheer materials and Worth has revived the long Tudor
sleeve. which fell over the hand and IS familiar In
pictures Of court beauties Of that time.
some Of the qaaintc-t china in market comes from
Denmark and +, nodded I'm stork pattern in blue and
gold. The familiar household bird 81; Northern Europe
j.. made o. support cellar. and with spread wings
to form odd looking cups and sauccrs.
Easter novelties were never more attractive than
now ostrich egg, mounted in sill
vcr lined with silk painted. and
in gold lacquer. There many small porcelain eggs
tina, range from five cents up to 81. The qualnte>t
egg, II silver bronze chased with the figure in re
lief Of the japanese god of plenty and pottery the
two terms seeming to mean the These open
with a hinge and dainty enough to be used as jewel
case. or bouhon holders for the toilet table. There is
the usual supply ~ papcr machc chickens and harcs
and h~luc hircs and chickens emerging from eggs
There are also sets or nests Of ivory papicrmachc'
css, painted with flowers. The largest Is the size Of
goose, egg. enclosing In succession six smaller eggs
the smallest the size Of wren'' egg.
Their, i, no nor, delicious breakfast bread than an
ENGLISH muffin. served. should be, hot. after
being torn apart and toasted The broken surface
must hc crisp and dainty brown. \ dish Of straw
berries. plate of toasted mullins with fresh and
coffee or elA,. II rich milk will make breakfast for
an cpicurc. An English muffin j.. Of course. UNIT
for the table before il /, toasted by the process OF
cooking it (, not thoroughly done in the centre. When
.crycd "A. II should be. split ard toasted. II Is Justly
tin. pride of the English housewife.
An American who doe, not know how delicious an
Tueli n muffin H. Wien properly served nor the iona
nc-, Of the average Enslishman for his National
bread cannot fully appreciate the keen wit of Dickens
who made Ralph Nicklcby aud the precious set OF
scamp, with him. founders Of the phllanthropc Ma
tlonal Muffin ard Crumpct society," \ trumpet dit
fer, from muffin In being baked only on one side
producing "A cake with honcycombed texture whlch
should also be- toasted before ii is served two crum
pets being buttcrcd and laid together. There are
several bakers in the city who furnish both these
English breads IN perfection.
Tho panels Of French tapestry. which pass under
the general name OF Gobclin, are in reality usually
made by the Maine factories OF old time AnbusSon
,,rpct, They are woven from the wrong side, the
worker eIidns his work like the Lady OF Shaott 10y
, mirror which hang, before him all the year. These
,.,r,. or. shovn chiefly in landscapes old
scenes Of knightly warriors and highborn danes In
medieval drc,, with surrounding, of turrcd towers
and stately castles. sought for panels in dining
room. and libraries. These tapestries do not equal
in cNuul,itc dclcacy Of tint and shade the old Gobcn
work. few specimens Of which are found outside the
palaces Of kings and princes. single specimen Of
,obclin work owned by large house in this city
measures about fifty four By twenty seven inches, and
is valued at $500
There have been a number Of different projects for
training general servants in this city. which have
usually turned ont disastrous failures The cause is
not hard to find II takes two TO make n bargain. and
servant, do not desire 10 bc trained In schools long
as they can obtain place, without going through such
a training The great public takes no Interest III ser
wants trained merely to fill places III the klchchs OF
the wealthy patroncSscs Of training schools WHY are
frequent appeals made the public for money to sup
port such schools 1t i, a impossible for member
Of the great public 10 secure trained servant
today a. it was ten year, ago. what has become OF
the money devoted to this object and where are the
mueh talked Of trained helpers Any talk of trained
domestic labor lons the supply OF unframed is
ma, canal io tho demand must be cimcricil. We can
nht,in ouaty only after we have quantity.
rho new para,ols are models of llchtncsS. Tho
,,most skill Of the manufacturer has been eNcrtcd
=, mako them Of feather weight They are made Of
nont dcsprlt crepe de Chine. crepe lssc and other
dccute gauges mounted in full effect on the sheerest
an, holtinc cloth The sticks made Of variety
-, nnc wood, of light weight and are finished with
handles Of Dresden china. carved ivory or ebony or
If natural wood overload In open pattern with silver
or merely tipped with silver or gold Two shapes
prcvail the nine point starShape. which Is quito
fiat and /, finished with ordinary for,ulc top. and
the tub or rounded mOresque parasol, which Is |
finished with "a crrulc or with large Nat button |
ON top. An exquisite plraSol in nine point star |
shape Is OF black crepe lissc shIrred In point as
each rib to make transparent paraso and yet con
cea the ribs II has lining Of black silk boiling