davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

TO be in grand vogue. More or rather less.
there are Tow o. those ornnmonts with which
were surcharEed the lackct. The EOtdreS. and
tho SaHh, ""-bdSI"r OF the preceding Ieriud.
Cloth and wool are in great favor. Little by
little bright goods rcapuenr. There II, how
ever. no need Of entering into great .Gtail. since
all our readers surely know these fashions and
have them IN their minds.
The skirts. toward 1876. become very narrow,
so marrow that women cannot scat themselves
except Sidewisc, Ihoy arc worry long and filed
with peats hen, a rcaCt on violent. they
become short. remaining n brief time still mar
ing them apucar, an tho tJuiYlore that wG
saw fail hut Yesterday.
Finally, TODAY, ana. alRs. IN fortunately not
for long. p"rinpF. ino woman is Slmplv and
c"Ennt, With stiElghl GoNH, moulding suit
GENTLY tho form. Tho skirt tends 10 Iousthen
and gives q gr n! elegance t. movement.
Women ToHily well formed are especially those
who triumph, because IL Is evident that such
costume approaches itself worry nearly TO that
of the common people. and that great dis
tinction ia no 'essHry to hear IL we'll since
everything rests in The taste governing the
choice uf tho stun aud in the elegance OF the
form,
10 ln qimi q 4 on" OF tho prettiest things about
woman, tile meek and enabling tho hair TO he
drcsee' win rs own rcsOur 'ee. to the despair
oi tho har d essUrs. This makes happy the
artists and people Of taste Many times al.
ready. but IN vain, happily have they tried to
bring back tho low COiiiures. The women leel
themselves adorable with the neck disclosed,
and those who havc taste rosis t VIGOROUSLY
i will say but q word OF the hats. Never have
they been pretttcr Whether II he tho tiny
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

The shawl. that thcy write scLaH, and which
made its nppcuranco under the Directoire. al
most at tho same time as artificial flowers. re-
mains IN Igreat IHvur, 80 short ~ the wa st
that II l. but scnrt Of gnu2e linen. or cash
mere OF various GolOrS,and always en- broidered
with silk or gold.
The shoes are OF silk or cloth. most often
matching the robe, and always without heels
The gloves are OF skin, long and large
AZ their return, IN 1919, the old tini0lrS tried
but without success, 10 bring back the FASH
ions OF before l7S9. They had 10 take account
OF tho new maGnerS and ADOPT them, good Will
rarely tact. Gnd who alwa,s spols everything
WA tho great o creign NJ that epoch. Every
thing WAS foreign russian or Russian, and
especial. English. and conveniently bare Of
taste and OF Grnrb. from that sad mOmout
dates Our hurr.b bic ma cuIiNc costume.
Tho wOmOu I'M M the plumGs. the cOckalos,
and the white roles tho little hats Il "a hussi-
r,,n~. and a number OF English garment which
make yot more ugly the already little gracious
fashions OF tho cmpirG.
Then, little 10y littlc. tic women, leaving 10
tho mon the moropnly of had tnste and OF
Angomaiin. Hbnrdon the imitation OF foreign
i1Odp, aud marked events begin aEain t. give
their name 10 toe divers transformations oil mo
fashion. DhrinE lN2l they wear he nat
Bu,,rGi, thai tio "OuHn mort aver ire men
and. In 1872. the III 81 giraffe making astonleh-
ment for tho ld',Sm""cS, they wear iOt some
time the nat an hiOuSfIP and have thelf mar
dressed a Ia Gi'Gfe. The hat lasted but snorI
time. but tho couture held on well ana atlalheu
The robes are shortened more and more, but.
on the other hand, tho waists arc lepgtheheu'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

all superiority brevet OF death, and disap-
peared, for some time at lenst: the Phrygian
cap and the curmdgnOie reigned as MASTER ~ !,
After the 9th Therniidor France breathed
OF the Merreilleuses. the triumph OF the pretty
girls and well-formed women. for 1t Is neces-
sary that woman be really well turned to dare
to show herself almost nude, and even nude
(Decddi. year W in frock OF gauZe. Tho waist
is then very short, and remains under the arms
until the first years OF tho reign OF Charles Y.
The hats are. In general, big. loaded with
plumes and ribbons. and bearing odd names.
ionnets a la toNe, tOguets 4 Ia eHtdnt &c. Bright
etuffs.
The dance is the folly OF the. day, and our
ion de HdnorG' show willingly their pretty legs
moulded into garments Of rose satin or in
clocked stockings Of silk: sometimes the entire
bosom Is uncovered and an engraving OF a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

bon ton shows us n m0Tcil'c"se in aeacket Dor.
dered with tur, open on the breasts. and OF
which the gown begins hut at the belt.
1t is necessary to, eNaggcrate nothing. le
mirable book Of Gonccurt on that curious
epoch. tho enGraving1 Of the time. will con-
vince the incredulous and the ignorant.
AS always, the painters had a great influence
on the fashions. David brought back tho mania
for the antique. and there was no more but
hair It Ia TITUS and la Cdracdhd and robes Ia
GrecquP and 4 IA EupdiHp.
The Consulate changed few things. but the
stufls became less transparent, and women
Napoleon. Emperor and victor, wished to
have a court as brilliant as that OF the Old
monarchy. Tho grand halls and great recep-
tons Of the court brought back again tile
phr!UeS and tho IcUi-DGWPS. The waist re-
mains very high. but the skirts are shorter than
under the Consulate, and especially than under
the Directoire; "p nrgttge, at least that is the
current costume.
The hats remain large, in the form OF hoods.
Sometimes curious and pretty. often odd al
ways amusing. beautiful embroidery reCains
favor: chilled. unfortunately, hY that false imi-
tation of the ltoman and tho Crock that is still
the rage.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

ions Of before tho revolution. the fashions Of
tina; other gracious sovereign Tor whom, size
had u sort OF cult. tho l.mpress. who could have
worn with grace beyond compare the ue-
licious attire OF the eiGhteent h century. was
one Of the first TO adopt tho crinolinc horrible
bone. and At last of STEEL In them. a woman
Is no more II woman EXCEPT Tor the bust. he
rest i a sort OF reversed funnel. which attains
sometiu e. to thirty feet OF circumference. and
which they cover with cloth OF nasscmcntcrle.
tDrHlieS. r"trreS very fine. acorns rinGes. the
whole very ugly. and without any sort of taste.
Tho waist has become again shorter. to ap-
prOach the modes OF the first empire and the
couture comes TO be of fiat bands in the most
voluminous eXaGgerations of the chignon.
The sad years Of 1870 and 1871 stop for an
instant all sorts of elegance. They dress as Is
COW enicnt. The fashion romans for some
years what it was under tho empre: How
ever, tho crinoline has been abandoned in 1868.
and this has sufficed TO mark a revolution In
the mode and TO permit taste, for SO long con-
temned to resume tho direction OF the femi-
nine toilet. There is a good stroke in the
making Of vests. especially, which begin again
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25
A CENTURY'S FASHIONS.
Gowns of a Hundred Years Pictured
and Described.
FAIR WOMBN'O FREAKS AND POLLIES
Feminine Dress Never More Beau.
tifuI Than Now.

All the Modes OF Three Generations Re.
viewed by a French Writer Costumes
OF tho Beauties OF the AncIen Regime
vagarIes of tho Time OF the Revolution
-6radual Progress OF tho Female Mind
from GauEe scarfs 10 CrInoliue-The
Hoop Skirt-A Calm Confederation OF the
FemInine Attire of tho Present Day. and
Rhapsody on tho Gown of Tea"
Tho dress Of a century is tho subject OF spe-
cial supplement Just issued by the Paris Figaro.
Tho pictures here are reproduced from advance
sheets OF that supplement, and furnish an in
teresting ocular demonstration Of tho prog
ress OF fashion during tho past hundred
years In Paris and that means In tho fashion
able world. for Paris has in nearly all Of that
time practically dictated the fashions OF both
Europe and America.
"Of all the centenaries that were to be cole
brsted." says Figaro in the year 1889. ono OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

an influence deplorable from the point OF view
OF originality and OF taste. but beneflcent in
the sense that their enormous capital enables
them TO establish reasonable prices for things
Of tho rich classes From this moment dates
tho Importance o.! lingerie in the toilet, and
rom this time 1t takes an elegance II had never
Gus marvelS.
=, Until toward 1886 the fashions change little:
yet moro as to circumference. and so leading
the female e,eCdtieS to wear as many as ten
starchod petticoats.
In 1879 the Emperor marries and thereafter
the Empress, pretty, young. and elegant. will
be the queen OF the mode. An influence re-
grettable surely. for sho who could AS well
create and lead US ba k 10 the adorable fash
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

D'Estaing az compile rentla de Necker. Ia Mont
golfer, nc. ,.
However after 1885 the fashions. which I'M
nj then had been pushed almost to eXtrava-
gance became simpliled. Hoops were worn
llttle except for tho grand ceremonies OF the
court They replaced thcm by staTched petit
conts ana straight skirts.
In 1889. at last Necker, the dcllct.the lncreas-
ing need of reforms and OF economics, brought
about in the fashions II great alTectRtion ofsim.
plicity: the hats and the honnets remained
enormous and complicated. framing In charm;
SO well by Mile. Berlin and which had to pay
SO dear for their beauty and their distinction
The revolution came desolating and 1ispers-
ing TO tho four corners of Europe this nd
mirable society. Elegance became then, ike
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

makers. modistes, theatrical people, and even
the simply curious, can afford TO look at them"
The fashions OF the century are reviewed by
NJ L, Wallet, extracts from whom follow:
Here is how the Marquis do Valfons describes
a toilet in 1856:
LA Duthe was lately at the opera in a robe
OF soupire etou6es dated broathl ornamentod
with reorets superfus tsuperfluous regrets), a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

merous journals OF the fashions and big books
on costumes, but they are Iona to look through
and sometimes difficult to be procured. We
have wished to choose the most amusing OF
these fashions and offer them to the public In
a form convenient for consultation and at n
price so moderate that oil, artists, dress
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

-, An actual treasure, that is the toilet for
the interior, tea gown. according 10 the
English expression. A young aud artistic
masipati9n, makes u that gown Of tea what
OF the Suitana in the Thousand and One
Nights. in satin, brOderod an rotmbrodered
In gold. powdered over with little turguoises or
Marguerite drcaminG in Faust 1t Is the
Venetian garment, claspol With jewels. OF
DcsueEona listening to OthellO. 1t is again
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

The revolution OF 1s4S had but u very pass
inE influence on costume. some women tIled
national c9lors. But our three colors. howa,cr
glorious they may 10. have au effect little
pleasing and n relation little happy from the
decorative point OF view and on that account
nave no chance OF ever being introduced into
the feminine costume.
The only marked transformation OF this
epoch Is the disfavor into which fall plumes
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

Tho log-o-mutton sleeves appear toward 1924.
and ROMAN In fashion during almost all the
reign OF Louis Philippe. -,
Ronanticism makes it's appearance, furnt-
ture and Jewelry are Of the middle age, the
women wear n ferronni6re on the forehead and
got hic iewelry.
They dance much under the reign OF Charles;
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

with flowers. with hounces, with tulc, and
punches OF ribbons.
After 1880, the middle class. finding itself in
power, brings back 4 sort of simplicity which
lacks not originality 1t is the epoch of the
sometimes behind, most frequently OF rose
silk. Tho very high coifrures have dlsap-
peared and. romanticism aiGing. they, have
corkscrew ringlets OF which frnmo not too i'll
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

ccpotes, refining or diminishing the head. or
tho great hats touching the features with a
light shadow they are rayishing, and rs never
has the manufacture OF flowers. ribbons. and
feathers been So perfect, some OF them are
true chefs duurrpS OF che and OF originality
Tho underwear and all tho lingerie OF the
body have attained perfection and an elegance
entirely modern, and contributing TO make Of
the woman, OF tho Pdrsipnne especially bc-
ing charming and troubling. true Empress OF
the century.
Another writer In the snme supplement. after
skotchinR racily tho foibes OF fashion Tor n
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

q mi to buy = gown. hut III" stun lGsteh ahug-
drod Nonrs. They handod it down from grand
mothor 10 granddaughter, and II the grand
daughter wore II not. 1t was not that th" gown
was worn out, bnt that the mole had changed.
Even nj The end OF tho reign OF Louis NV,
pomn had not nbd,cRtcl its rights: thov still
covered with tho touch 1t ronro the cheeks
inrrowod by very real tears. Whom disappear
Cd the master who had known ~ vol how to
reign thorC WIS II schsm: h" old court main-
TIMED It's fashions and its mHnrors. tho now
court tlre% itsclf into tho reaction OF the Ro-
GCncy Then they adopted powder and patches
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

citation suffice 10 show what importance the
women, at THAI c!arnIing enocu GaNe /" tLer
toilet
very event a lttl,c mari ed was then tho prc.
text for a now fashion. from the couture Il la
belle Ppuir which set on tho heads OF the se-
gdJtes u complete irigate masts. cannon. and
rigging. TO that Il n CdiSSe. d'escOnpte "a a
broken bank hats which lacked OF basisl In
passing through the fashion9 IL Boston, q IA
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

toward 1851. Save under the Terror, they had
they disappear for some time from feminine
cOifTures.
Comes the second empire. remark able eroch
from the point of view OF the DEVELOPMENT oil
national wealth aud OF notifications In tho
social state. Tho great mdgdSlns de nou-
reau'eS exert large influence on the fashions,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

in emerads. curls OF sentiments sousienus tsus-
tanned sentiments) with n bonnet OF C0nqurie
aSsD'es d tassured conduesU trimmed with
plumes roidgrs iflcke and ribbon Td nbatr1
leye cast down, cat on the collar tho color OF
0ueuL noHret(emeh aI7'tue newly arrived beg
gar."
This must seem somewhat labored wit to
minds devoid oil Of Gallicism. but Figaro COM
is this not adorable and does not this short
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

point in the midst. her Cnlideou Da,Jaite trerfect
candorl trimmed in complaints indtScr6tes. with
ribbons and attentions marques (marked at
tentions) shoes cherdur dp IA refine, brocaded
with diamonds in CoUpS pe,JideS (perfdious
strokes and the reHez-H-rOW tcome see-herel
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

Something on Fantasies Of Fashion is con-
tributed by another writer. He says:
when Racine madc his ancient pcrsonnces
say madame ana 'selRneur:' when no TOOK
court for. the fierce Gnhigenia when Athaic,
tho terrible queen, breathcd out hor villainoms
soul in beautiful rhythmic, phrases all was
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

the angelic oval" and meek of the swan ex-
acted by the poets of tho time.
Colors sad and sombre regain, favor at mo
same time that spleen and naladics Of the
chest are in fashion. They wear much silk,
while the collars and the cAemiscttes arc Of
laco.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

the most interesting was. beyond contradic-
ton. that Of the costume OF women.
Why has 1t been forgotten?
Figaro wishes to remedy this neglect lit has
seemed to it curious and very Partisan to place
under the eyes OF its friendly readers all the
metamorphoses OF that brilliant butterfly that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

listing modo:
,,At present tho toilets arc lit:lo realistic
O. little Yankee. They nre inspired by Nj. Paul
BourGet. Ho loves the soft SILKS they arc nut
everywhere. NJ. lola himself has some inu.
ence on the toilet. They add to ii II dron Of
emancipato il.
The Uoas. those tails of exotic eats or foxes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

the gallant iPSidbHp Of Nine. do Parabare
palo bl We, lowered with silver and sifted with
lace 1t Is. in sum. what tho poets. the paint
srS' the hculpIors OF every age and OF every
land have dreamed and expressed, set at the
service Of living beauty
Tho gown Of tea for woman who UNDER
stands how TO manage II can be called TIL
umphant and conpucrnE"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

The end OF the reign OF Louis Philippe secs
again the amplitude p tho robes augmented,
which leads soon to the horrible cEinoine that
very long. which makes the woman very
gracious; but 1t is necessary to have all tho
trnctiYe.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

the feet, what think you Of them? One puts
them over whatever one wishes. and at times
t oyer very little, but love better the time when
the costume Tor a promenade is not open to
such O suspicion.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

lightness of ball gowns. have little of the red
skin while possessing charm of strangeness.
these great'redIngo,es, are convenient-buta are
they pretty? And the nantes for the country
malicious bags attached at the neck to fall to
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

Rousseau invented nature and all France
dreamed OF tho Charmetles whore the young
ltousseau had soul SO fresh, Watching ths
flowers. A. tho court Of Marie An oinstte they
zane soon TO coli themselves with vegetables,
nndlng them moro natural"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

they call the Parisienne, queen in every place
and always. through grace and good taste.
Never. furthermore. at any epoch. have
people been 30 eclectic, and consequently.
DO fond of things of the past the hour
seems then we'll chosen to give in n short
resume statement oil all the fashions which
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1890-05-25

lace. felerine OF velvet Coored silk stockings
The beautiful Duchess OF Chateauroux
dreams OF making great man of the prince
race and o. soul so high that she scarcely
sees the sad side OF her role. Tor her the King
given. But all changes, and one day Marie
Antoinette has to let hn presented to her Nine
du Barry. They wonder long what the dauCh-
ter Of Marie Yherese will be able 10 say to the
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1890-07-11

Among the nameless heroes, none are
more worthy of martyrdom than he who
rode down the valley of the Conemaugh,
warning the people ahead of the Johns
town flood. Mounted on q powerful
horse, faster and faster went the rider,
but the flood was swiftly gaining, until
it caught the unlucky horseman and
swept on, grinding, crushing, annihila-
ting both weak and strong.
In the same way Is disease lurking
near, like unto the sword of Damocles,
ready to fall, without warning, on its
victim, who allows his system to be
come clogged up, and his blood poi
soned, and thereby his health endan-
gered. To eradicate these poisons from
the system, no matter what their name
or nature, and save yourself q spell of
malarial, typhoid or bilious fever, or
eruptions, swellings, tumors and kin
dred Disbursements, keep the liver and
kidneys healthy and vigorous, by the
use of DR.. Pierce's Golden Medical Dis
covery. It's the only plood-purifier sold
on trial. Your money is returned If 1t
doesn't do exactly as recommended. A
concentrated vegetable extract. Sold
by druggists, in large bottles, at $1.00.
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1890-07-11
ABOUT LEAD PENCILS.
The Process OF Their Manufacture, and
WHIST They Cost.

The Process OF Their Manufacture. and
Whist They Cost.
"What does 1t cost to make q lead
pencil?" said the manufacturer, in reply
to New York Evening Sun reporters
inquiry. First, let me tell you how we
make a pencil.
''See this fine black powder? That's
graphite. 1t costs IS cents q pound.
This white substance is German clay.
It comes across the ocean as ballast in
sailing vessels. and all it costs us is
freight We mix this clay and this
powder together and grind them in q
mill, adding moisture during the
process, until the two are thoroughly
mixed and are reduced to a paste about
the consistency of putty.
This paste we press into these dies,
each one of which is the size of a pencil
lead, except in length. There are four
leads in one OF these. After they are
pressed we cut them into proper lengths
and bake them in an oven kept at very
high temperature. Then we have the
lead made. Its hardness is regulated
by the greater or less amount of clay
We mix with the graphite-the more
clay we put in the harder the lead.
THE cedar we use comes principally
from Florida, and is obtained entirely
from the fallen trees that lie there. The
wood is delivered to us in blocks, sawed
to pencil lengths, some of them thick,
to receive the lead. and some thin, for
the piece that is to be glued over the
lead The blocks are sawed for four
pencils each. They are grooved by .
saw, the groove being the place where
the lead is to lie. The leads are kept in
hotglue, and are placed in the grooves as
the blocks are ready. When this is done
the thin piece is glued fast to the thick
one When dry the blocks are run
through q machine that cuts the pencils
apart Another machine shapes them,
making them octagonal, or round, or
fiat. or three-cornered. as the case may
be. The pencils are Furnished by ma
chinery and are then ready to be tied in
lunches. boxed and put out
The different grades in value of q
lead pencil are made by finer manipula-
ton of the graphite and the use of bet
ter material The average pencil in
everyday use costs about one quarter
Of cent to make We are content
with 100 per cent profit on 1t when we
sell it to the dealer. What his profit is
you may figure out for yourself If you
have one of the pencils about you that
You paid five cents for. OF this grada
OF pencil an operator will turn out 2, 500
in day.
The most valuable lead pencil that /
know Of is owned by lawyer in this
city 1t is cheap looking affair, but
don't believe it could be bought for sioo.
The wood in this pencil came from 3
cedar tree that was probably centuries
old before any cedar tree now standing
began to grow. Il was taken from the
bottom Of mari bed in Orange County.
at depth Of nearly 1oo feet below the
surface- Near It was found the remains
Of mastodon- The knob on the end
of the pencil was made from . piece of
the mastodon's tooth. The pencil has
never been sharpsned. and probably
never viii be.
The Kinsley graphic. [volume] (Kinsley, Kan.) 1890-1940, 1890-07-11

Over $4,000, coo acres of Government land
is yet vacant in New Mexico subject to en-
tryunder pre-emption, homestead, timber
culture, and desert land laws. Much OF
this is productive agricultural land, capable
of cultivation without irrigation.
The market for farm products is good
Prices for same are SO per cent to IS pei
cent. higher than in States east of the
Rockies. For successful and profitable
fruit growing, the irrigated valleys of New
Mexico can not be surpassed. The climate
Is invigorating and free from malaria. Elk
tremes Of heat and cold are not severe.
New Mexico is reached directly via SAINTS
Fe route.
For information relative to public or pri
Vate lands, call on or address Edward Haren
Special Immigration Agent, A. T. & S. F
R. R. Co., No. 1850 Union Ave, Kansas City
peka, Kan, or Jno. ]. Byrne, A. G. P. 6
I. A, Chicago, Ills.