Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1890-01-24
THE HOUSEHOLD.
SERvICEABLE DRESSES.
sugu,-,,op. for Home Dre..uaEer..

some as they are now, and are so univer-
sally worn that it is quite possible to have
simple yet tasteful outfit Of wooden
dresses An economist who must make a
little money do a great deal should choose
plain woolens instead of those with figures,
stripes or bars. or the hordered pattern
dresses that attract attention by their
snowy designs and she should find the best
and newest shades Of the colors that art
most becoming to her, or that will combine
well with a color that has hitherto proved
satisfactory Black, after having been
decidedly out of favor in wooden fabrics, Is
again popular. and indeed fashionable, for
both house and street dresses. Cancels
hair Of pure wool and serges with well
marked diagonal lines are used for street
wear. also the more expensive smooth
faced fabrics. which are preferred TO the
heavier tricots with slight ribs that catch
the dust. These fabrics are so wide and
are now so plainly made that only SIX
yards are required for "A dress, and they
are thus within the reach of women OF
small means Cashmere for morning or
house dresses Is not so wide as cloth or
serge. and about eight yards are usually
bought Henrietta cloths cost a little more
than the cashmeres, are more lustrous on
their twiled surface. and are very much
liked both IN colors and IN black Silk
cord passementeries are fashionable trim
mings that need he bought only IN very
short lengths by the economist ward be
ing made to trim the collar and wrists, or
10 extend along the curved or diagonal
front Of the bodice while bit of velvet
or silk forms its collar, cuffs and vest, or
some slight drapery
For lining the dress waist and making
the foundation skirt, a good and low priced
fabric Is called oxford cloth, or is better
known in the shops as French sateen. 1t
is finely twilled cotton, as lustrous as satin
and So durable that 1t Is preferred 70 silk
bv many ladies who do not have to consid
err the cost Only three lengths of this
wide sateen are required for foundation
skirt. which should be two and three
fourths wards wide for woman of average
height This skirt is finished with facing
of the same sateen or of alpaca, an inter
lining of not too stiff crinohne, and an out
side facing Of silk or the dress goods. II IA
skirt braid is added it is set underneath, %
barely show below the edge A single steel,
ten or twelve inches III length, Is set across
the back about twelve inches below the
waist
When buving hooks and eyes, the bent
hooks should be selected, as those slightly
bent near the point stav fastened so well
that it is not necessary to sew them on al
ternate sides of the dress waist in the usu
al incouveuient way The very large
hooks and ewes used as CLOAK and fur tas
teners are excellent for keeping IA heavy
skirt attached to a separate waist, four OF
the hooks being set on the waist just below
the belt. two on the seams joining the back
and side forms and one on each under. arm
seam the ewes are placed on the skirt u
correspond Small crocheted ball buttons
are again used, and fiat button moulds il
large sizes are covered with velvet for red
ingotes and smaller ones are placed IN &
/ row up the inside Of deep cuffs or mutton
/ leg sleeves that have no cuffs.
If only one new dress ran be purchased
/ for general wear, it is best 10 get this black
instead of colored, the choice being a broad
diagonal serge made up with or without
velvet sleeves. or else henrietta cloth, witt
/ silk sleeves and draped silk on the front Of
] - a
( serge is plainly cut, with the bodice Tapped
in front. and a single long revers. Of vel
vet if the sleeves are of velvet siopinl
from the right shoulder TO the left of the
waist line the back ends in a slender
basque without position pleats, and tbs
whole waist is stitched once or twice alonl
the edge The collar stands high and may
be either velvet or serge. The tavorit'
shape for large velvet sleeves is the mutton
leg in wrinkles above the elbows and near
ly tight below, with six small buttons an'
loops of braid on the inside seams Of eacl
wrist The coat sleeve simply widened a
the top and heightened there TO stand on
above he armhoe and in two or three lonl
AblAAN7 - dl0' III AAf'A W. NiNAANi ''i'NN ~
wool sleeves What is called the Englisl
skirt Is liked for these heavy diagona
dresses. consisting of two and a half o
three straight breadths Of double widt
goods, nearly plain in front and on tn
sides and the fullness massed in pleats upoi
pleats directly in the back Black henri
eta or cashmere dresses are made up NOR
lightly with faille or peau de sole and ca
be further enriched by cord passementerie
If color is to be introduced it Is confined t
the waist, and is merely gay silk hand
kerchief knotted and draped inside
V shaped opening that has revers, or it
Of dark red, Suede or green cloth. upo
which are rows of black braid or points q
passementerie tasteful model for wo,
dresses is slit open in shape at the nee
TO disclose velvet beneath, and has a mig
velvet cellar, a pointed belt Of velvet, an
velvet sleeves The straight skirt mas il
broad front breadth taken up in sing
deep loop on the left side iu Grecgte dI
closing velvet breadth beneath Cordl
roy is used in the same way with green q
brown wool dresses, and is less expensiy
than velvet
In remodeling last year, dress waists tn
basque part may be thrust under the be
of the skirt and a folded girdle of velv,
or wide ribbon made TO conceal the joir
The use of a different fabric for sleeves
also helpful, as the tight sleeves of last SCI
son were first to show wear If the bodic
is worn Just under the arms a short Zoua v
or Figaro jacket can be made TO cover d
or some wide galloon or inexpensive platte
braid can be passed around the entire arm
holes If one side Of the front of the wal
has been accidentally soiled, it can hav
some silk, velvet, or wool OF a contrastin
color draped upon it in almost any way r.
, quired 1t Is also possible TO cover the Ell
tire front with another fabric, provide
a girdle and collar of the dress materi
are used this front shows no darts,
pleated in at the point of the waist, is pla
above and is fastened on the left shoulde
curves closely against the armhole, and
! hooked in the under arm seam. The bac
! of such a waist has the full skirt hooks
above its edge -Harper's BazGr
I
1t Is a fact well known. that if it was not for 4