Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-04-06
LADIES' COLUMN.
Spring Fancies Unfolding in the
Domains of Dress and Home.
A Saunter Through Millinery Glories,
With Occasional Pauses Over a
Heavenly Bonnet"
The Spring inn that Comes After Gentle Annie
is Transformed Into a Housekeeper
Jottings by the Way

a well rewarded by the luxury OF an Easter bon
net. There is a show of reason for the assertion
by some sacrilegious wretch, who certainly has
not the fear of woman before his eyes, that this
Lenten abstinence is 4 bit of shrewd calculation
by which the reduced grocer bills counter-bal-
anc2 the augmented bills of miIliner and mantua.
maker.
The reward of welI-doing may come in the
shape of an entire new costume, and in no other
shape could IL be as welcome to the average
woman. Since the times when to have bon
n net for each season was an extravaganza that
only the rich could afford, there has been much
change, but although IN these days
s. bonnet goes with each costume not one
has quite the Importance of the
Easter bonnet that fairly turns as well as orna-
ments the head Of beauty. If, as tradition has
1t, the sun dances on Easter morning, pray why
s should not the heart of woman rejoice, when ar
Tayed in spic-span new garments she lightly
walks the path leading to church, and when
singing glad praises is all the more light hearted
+ that amid the decorations that betoSen new life
overlooked.
The past week has brought many delicious an
ticipatory peeps at beautiful headgear, and
where, amid so many entanging streameTs and
pricking pins, 70 find hating place and words
70 convey 10 the reader idea of the varied
beauties, is not easy.
So far as this seasons work has any distinct
i've feature, II IS included IN the of the fancy
straw, the straw pSSseInenterie, gauZe ribbon,
and few minor details which are chiefly devel-
opments from the ideas of former work.
Thus the passementerie shows some newly
emphasized peculiarities such as the Yandyke
point which has taken as complete possession
Of the millinery of every other kingdom under
Fashions reign. The employment OF balls and
beads is another passementerie idea which re-
Ceives added attention and extends to many va
carries, even strings of the colored beads so long
worn by children being used on the daintiest
While it is true that silver and gilt are abun
dainty used, Jet has lost of its popul arity,
the points finished by large balls cut to reflect
light at every angie. a narrow pointed edging
OF jet frequently rms around the brim of bon
net over bright coIors, and among the pattern
hats are those OF jet open work that show the
hair through the meshes, ''Gold and silver
galore describes accurately the use of these
brilliant accessories to the love OF a bonnet. In
many, the entire crown is a network of heavy
gold and silver cord with coiored velvet RIM
through the meshes. Pearl passementerieS are
used with charming effect in connection with
well chosen colors. All the tinsel fancies have
their beauty enhanced by the Illuminating effect
OF pretty new shades of color. Dragon flies and
butterflies hover over and settle among
drifts of white lace, and the material that is
deity used in making that mystery, woman's
bonnet. or that bonnet 1t may be said 1t has all
seasons 1or its own. ElneI RED butterhles, that
look like autumn leaves, tremble on spiral
stems over gay branches of golden rod, and
jeweled bees seem sucking sweet juices from
fruits that have not yet been formed in NATURES
workshop. Velvet, that Is peculiarly winters
fabric, now haunts itself in great flowers, amid
spring blossoms that are natures self. Black
flowers are one of the seasons fads, and are
gwen the yellC centers which conspicuous
in all the flower work where it is possible to run
them without too gross violation of natural
DEGREES.
Lace barbes in black and white are used. and
somewhat eXtraVagantly, The sCarfs forming or
oTnamenting the hats fall in exaggerated lengths
at the back, to be carried about the throat and
envelop the bodice in front.
Ornamental pins with large heads are much
used, while the little pins thickly Strewn
as usual. Wide ribbon bows, set on the back Of
mats, are brought forward over the crown in
long loops, fastened by these small pins in the
fashions so prevalent two summers since. Some
toques are shlrred in melon style, and tiny cap
bonnets are shirred around and around. Straw
is made into separate crowns and into flexible
ribbon. which is looped in with velvet or creme
generally the latter. Perhaps the most novel
trimming is made by drawing the threads of silk
ribbon 10 the width of an inch or more in the
center, then folding through the middle of the |
drawn space, giving doubled fringe; this is re-
peated IN gold by the use of fine and very pliable
the edge of velvet or silk.
In colors wide margin is allowed, but chaste |
taste will always exhibit itself whatever license |
IS granted. White Is well but not largely used; |
the latter work win probably show more of it. |
White snowballs are beautiful in black lace, and |
ere Inuch better exc cuted than usual. Magenta |
IS revived in clear, pure tint, notably in the |
large single roses with crowd of yellow sta /
mems, the roses that grow on the low bushes
about the farmhouse door
The puppies of all shades are run with black;
on broad black lace hat punches of Ilacs are
nnassed behind with long green stems, like violet
stems, twisted in a heavy rope that encircles the
crown. The puppies are run alone, as in egg
varying tones shown in the different materials
employed. Purple and gold is always striking,
shade is edged with doubled fringe of gold
creation which is wholly indescribable, and
get 100 exqulsitely lovely to be leftundescribed,
combines the new dawn pink with q blue, also of
the morning clouds; the fat-topped toqueS is of
the pink IN French crepe, with full crown and
qulileu brlm edge; fouT-inch ribbon of blue |
game, with narrow satin stripes, is looped |
around the front, and, passing to the back, falls
IN long stresmers; upon the top rests a fiat mat
OF passementerie made of fine tinsel cord coiled
tlttle mats and wound about in oblong leaves;
p2ssementerIe, which pushes the pink crepe
~ mn af f1,a hail 6.,au 4
fides, Is IN the same shades of pink and blue,
an equally delicate green and yellow; il
-er bonnet merited the term which ecstatic
women sometimes Observation-Disclosures this
one should be accorded it. such q delicate fancy |
belongs TO cloundland undoubtedly
Much Of an allotted space has been devoted to
spT!ng millinery, but it is not to be supposed
that this viii create much dissatisfaction among |
Ine the, ialr readers of this column, and 10 those
only is reserved the right to cavil
Inc spring and summer gowning viii conspicu- |
Dusty exhibit the quaint and charming sim |
phcity well as the infinite variety that is
COPIED rom the styles of the Eighteenth century.
and what IS more pleasing than the pretty
Waists, straight full skirts, and picturesque col
lars and Bertha's sleeves, ssshes and hats that ;
SO faithfully copy the costumes of that period ,
FROM the notes o. disapproval that are found in |
articles on dress in the different journals, it ,
seems certain that there is persistent effort be-
dresses This fashion if applied to street dresses
mas nothing TO commend it, and everything to !
urge sgalnst 1t; for more untidy. uncleanly /
SIMON IS haru 10 conceive. While II is true the s
mutton leg sleeve is worn, it is also true that
me loose lifting coatsleeye is not obsolete.
Ihere IS manifest lingering over the fashion !
Q: sleeves differing from the dress, fashion (
strongly Endorsed by Felix of Paris Dresses of 3
INN iaprlc have plain and plaid material and ! q
are maze with sleeves and drapings of the plaid q
Aho the gown proper of the plain. a pretty s
nooefn nnlsh to the bodice is pointed belt OF n
OiaeK net worked with jet, or, if preferred, many
MODELS come with shaped bands belts Of
meta! galloons starting from the side seams and
orinihg point in front. French dressmakers .
re dispensing as much possible with seams
nat SHOW IN the bodice. The lining is r
made TO fit the figure perfectly in glove e
Ike CioSeness and then the outer goods
% IoIoed and draped to make the mode OF h
,4It ana entrance mystery. There is a slight VI
nuicatlon that entIrey plain skirts have had | ~
nelE cay Many OF the foulards are made with | r
angnt-up skirts, and others, while retaining
ne vertical flutes in the back breadths, have the 10
ronts arranged in folds that sometimes de- 81
CIIneu as vertical fesiooned folds. In striped e
material the back demi train the stripes in q
vertical oil ection, and the sides the stripes &c
re SCI olagonally and form points in the center e
y the Jabher. This rule is observed in the
ionls OF the bodice, and in the back the line of 81
ne aenl'-tFain is followed. The rule is in no Il