New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-02-02
SEEKING WHITE SUNSHINE.
AND FINDING DUST, POOR HOTELS, BEG
CARS AND Poems.

can winter. Consequently, when December prom
ised TO add its pluvial insults TO the elementary
indiguites Of November, drenched and dis
gusted trio of pilgrims armed themselves with a
half-dozen score of so-called guide books
and bought tickets for Mexico. The rate of speed
at which they proceeded toward the land of the
Montezumas was not too great TO prevent them
from enjoying the view along the route; nor were
tie halts at the various stations too trief 10
admit OF satisfactory examination OF their en-
vironments This snail-like celebrity gave the
pilgrims time to become accustomed TO the change
from the humidity of the North Atlantic coast 70
the dust of the Mexican plateau-the dust they
had yearned to behold, and of which they very
soon got all they wanted. So much so, in fact,
that they are now convinced that not only Is man
made of the dust of the Garth but that every
Else under the heavens and outside OF ralndrenched
Manhattan is composed of the same substance.
One Of the guide-books-a regular natural-gas
well of information-had led them TO believe THAI
they would find, soon as they should cross
the Rio Grande, radical change from the bleak
and frosty climate Of the States to the paradisaI
balminess of Mexico. Consequently, when they
were aroused from sleep at the cheerful hour OF
A a. m, and were told that they were at the
frontier. and were TO prepare for the customs
lnSDPcUlOn, JneV 1cUleulDtIcu NlOh NAC"AHS
fitness the promised balmy zephyrs Of the further
verge of the Rio Grande, and not single ana
thema was hurled at the chilly, early-morning
United States atmosphere. But during the three
hours which followed, while the train lay at
Eagle Pass, there was many shiverlng query
as TO why they had been summoned at O'Clock
for the luggage inspection, which was not made
until Z.
NaOrac tho cUIlOSltV TO
learn what would be the duty an extra tooth
brush prevented the pilgrims from testing the
truth of the statement in the veracious GUIDE
book that Mexican cooking is not palataole.
The breakfast, which had been prepared for the
nasseurers in the substantial stone building OPP
nosite the station. was neglected with an IN
difference 10 inward cravings that could be at
tributed only TO the customs inspection, ana TO
the fancied certainty that the bunet-car would
satisfy all their wants. Perhaps, too, 1t was the
eaoerness 10 discover the whereabouts OF the
" balmv zephyrs. which had not yet made their
,nnearance. although the sun was an hours journey
above the horizon, and the peons wrapped TO
their noses in their zarapes the grotesque nopals
The low adobe houses, and the trains OF heavily
laden burros told that this was the home OF the
aforesaid zephyr When the train was once more
under way, the pilgrims bethOught themselves OF
the assuring paragraph the timetable: Bullet
cars are attached TO all through trains, and afford
excellent restaurant facilities and every comfort
TO the tourist and summoned the porter The
porter came. "Yes, dere is a buffet IN lie car
sir. but dere amt no supplies, sir. we docsnb
run none from San Antonio, sir"
but your tables advertise buffet SER
vice?7
Can't help it, sir dey amt no supplies aboard
Dere's only de buffet; OATS all
And it was so.
At o'clock the train arrived at Monclova ana
dinner Ample time is allowed at the stations Tor
geological, chronological or any
other research. Consequently, the famished Pill
grims did ample justice 10 the really eAceuenu
dinner, in which there was not trace OF The
garlic and grease There had been
some change in the running time Of the trains
corresponding change had not been made In the
scbadule Of the Mexican Central Railway, with
which the trains from Eagle Pass connect at Tor
reon: and consequently when the pilgrims ar
rived at the junction two hours after the de-
parture of the connecting train-and the only one
until the following evening-they were ophged
10 spend the night either in the by no means In
hotel" at the station. or In the
Pullman car, which would be "yarded" below
the station until the next morning. The latter
alternative was chosen. AS as 1t was
,iqht enough to see they left the car, and
proceeded TO the hotel" whose proprietor is
clipper little Chinaman, and procured from
- John" two carpetless, but scFupulously cleah'
rooms TorreOn is unattractive town as
dusty roads, verdureless hills, and square ADOBE
houses can make IL, so the pilgrims were oDhged
uo content themselves with watching the lnnumer-
able 1ocls Of goats and sheep, trains OF antique
Ok carts and burros, with now and then leather
clad ranchero flashing past, almost ooscured IL
the cloud of dust raised by the feet of his steed
Zacatecas WIS Of sufficient interest to cause them
N rise at the early hour Of the next morning.
Il IS one of the most important mining centres
in the Republic From the car window, as it
approaches the city, numerous reduction works
are seen. in which the patio process of treating
pres is still practised. Owing TO its altitude
5. 600 feet the climate of Zacatecas is trying TO
weak lungs Pneumonia is said to prevail among
the poorer classes. curious ridge, called the
Bufa. from its likeness TO buffalo, rises just
beyond the city. There is a chapel on the sum-
nit the ascent TO which is favorite pilgrimage
for penitents, who crawl on hands and knees up
the steep activity The suburb of Guadalupe.
through which the railway passes, and which is
slso connected with Zacatecas by tram-cars, is a
picturesque place. The CoIgio de Miestra Sonora
Re Guadalupe is located there; also the Orfoua-
orio one of the most notable charitable institu-
ions in the Republic, in which 1000 orphans
IRE being educated and taught trades Not only
IRE the school and municipal prison supplied with
bread and clothing from the OrfanatOrio bakery
md cloth factory, but large surplus of woven
yoods is annually sold TO the market. The in
,titution includes also school for deaf-mutes.
Just at Pullman-car bedtime the train stopped.
md the cry Of Fresas fresas!" informed the
that they were at Irapuato. the juno
ion Of the branch line TO Guadalaiara, and the
tation of the perennial Irapuato strawberry Why
his incompatible small fruit is not cultivated
elsewhere in Mexico, where the climate and soil
ne equally as favorable as at lrapuato, is ques-