The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-07-06

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terial, and for summer. certainly, the change
is commendable. A bonnet that is to be
yelled must have low, fiat crown, and in
spite of the fact that a few black headed
pins and told here and there are all that
is necessary, the arrangement Of veil to
form becoming background for the face is
a good deal more of an art and one to
which is given more and more attention,
only the best milliners in good establish
ments being allowed to touch the drapery.
Strings for the mourning bonnet, II
Of grape, are silk lined. Sometimes
broad ribbons are used and sometimes mar
n Inlighter mourning bonnets are seen that
are worn in basket work OF marrow lustre-
less ribbons. Black thistles are among tho
favored garnitures, mixed sometimes with
white ones. The variety of dull wings, jet
sa f s'a s 'aa
greater that an importing man milliner
tells me it is the anxiety OF his life to sat
isfy his mourning customers. They are
constantly demanding. he says, things that
are not properly mourning.
held consistent with deep mourning, but
they are worn by many people. Mrs. Julia
Dent Grant has had hers set in Jet, and
often when the black has been a little
lightened black enameled flower pins the
collar and shows resting on its petals dia-
OOWOEORs OAyA 40 ICChOnoA WAbA
mourning jewelry, and SO are black pearls,
provided they are set SO as to display only
the faintest line of gold. In light mourn
ing gray perals are not disdained.
1t is in half mourning that woman. If
she has any. usually displays her eccentric.
wearing the deepest and iettiest of black
that wealthy lady, wcll known in New
York society, caused many eyes to bend
themselves on her by walking up the church
aisle one morning holding by either hand q
child dressed in purest white, to contrast
we'll known, offers endless opportunities for
startling combinations, but black without
assistance can have the mourning principle
pretty well eliminated if treated on a
Frenchy plan like certain dress of black
China Grape which New York widow is
now wearing. This frOck is q black China
crepe and is trained. 1t has n low bodice
and sleeves of lace, with cascades of jet. 1t
is draped IN front with cascades of jet and
is worn with a black feather head dress.
For elderly ladies who do not care for
sensational arrangements l may be permit
which is we'll adapted for light mourning.
The fabric is black silk, figured with hare
bells in two shades of violet. It is COM
bined with plain black in the making.
Mourning for young girls should be Of
the simplest always and not too heavy. It
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no right to keep them under cloud. For
toddling children mourning dress is moth
ing short of heathenish.
The mourning gloves are undressed kids,
but these seldom wear we'll and dressed
kids are frequently substituted. A hand
kerchief with simple black monogram is
better than the bordered varieties, while as
for the woman who sends black bordered
paper and envelopes through the mail she
ought to be stopped by an injunction. To
wear black corsets and lingerie is overstep-
ping the mark altogether, and suggests q
luxury of grief that is as far removed from
genuine affection as possible. One is not
called on to believe in heartbreak when a
woman finds her fearful eyes relieved if
they rest on mourning draperies in her
boudoir. It lessons ones respect for
woman if she finds black sheets contribut-
ing to her peace of mind.
ELLEN OSBORN.
CQnYriUht.