The Arizona champion., 1890-11-15
MODEL DINNERS.
Pay Your Money and Take
 Your Choice.
VARIETY OF NEW YORK RESTAURANTS
Spanish, German, French, Chinese
 Russian and English.

No matter" said one of the leading ''Bohemians' of New York the other day. No matter what mans tastes may be, in the matter of eating, or what his lack of taste may be, if he stop short of cannibalism in his desires, he can have them gratifed to the top of his bent in some of the restaurants of New York.
 Shall l begin at the top or the bot tom?" he asked, rolling a cigarette, and settling himself for an interview. T think he continued, without waiting for an answer, ''that the top would be the best, for probably even do not know the bottom. shall probably stop before reach the end, for it is hard to say who does not know the worst restaurants in town. have eXperimented as far as l dare in that direction, but presume haven't gone far enough.
 1.-The best dinners in the world I be- lieve can be had in New York If you want to dine la Russo, and take all night to it, with a surprise for every course, you can do it at any one of sev- eral expensive maisons near Madison square. This is not dining, though ; that is a debauch. The chief of the king of Greece not long ago described an ideal dinner, and such a one you may get if you can afford the price, in any one of twenty restaurants. 1 am not ad- vertising any of them. He suggests the soups, one thin, the other thick. Then two relieves, one rf fish, the other meat and vegetables. Next, entrees. He wisely recommended moderation here. prefer only one, and like bit of poul- try. This brings you to the meridian of the meal, and is not bad place for pause, or even for full stop if you are abstemious. If not, take a sorbet. My own notion IS drop of brandy with cigarette, but most gourmets prefer to make a sweetened dainty of the alcohol.
 Next, if you continue, and you prob ably will. take some game in a roast, and don't forget a solid with it. A dinner without salad is like an egg without salt. After this you are ready for tri- fling. Dainty vegetables if you want them, sweets or pastry if your tastes are effeminate, fruit if you like, coffee and a cigar necessarily.
 This is a model dinner, and will go best if prepared by an educated French cook. Cooks are educated in other coun- tries, but they seem to be indigenous to the French soil. Turkish cookery is not unlike it, and embraces a very similar variety. There is no distinctively Turk ish restaurant that I know here, but you may get pilaff to order in any good French place.
 ''The. pilaff is made by first boiling in the same water, then frying in small pieces, chicken and portion of shoul- der of mutton. A handful of rice is next boiled in the same broth, drained and Drowned in butter: An onion is sliced and fried brown in butter, a table spoonful of curry or saffron and hand full of raisins are thrown into the rice, which must simmer until soft. The whole is served with hard boiled eggs cut up for a garnish.
 ''It would take all day to describe na- tonal dishes, and a whole year for you to try them all, but you may do it in New York if you like. For Spanish food, go to the neighborhood of Maiden lane and Pearl street. German restaurants are numerous on the east side. There is a capital one on Grand street, near the Bowery. Of French places of the me dium class there are three or four eX- cellent ones on Bleecker street, near South Fifth avenue. Some first class Chinese restaurants are located on Mott street. Two good Jewish eating houses are near corner of Bayard street and the Bowery. There are five distinctively national Italian places in the bend in Mulberry street, and one Russian in Hester street, near East Broadway. There are several good English chop houses, two of the best, to my mind, be- ing on Sixth avenue, near Twentieth street, and on Fourth avenue, also near Twentieth street.
 'Of American restaurants there is no end. The very best, to my notion, is close to Washington market. The worst well, there are so many worst ones. They are all over town. You can eat meal for five cents in one of the St. An drews' stands. You can go to beanery If you want to spend ten or twenty cents, or if you have only two cents to spend you can go down on Pearl street to one of the two cent houses there.
 "New York is probably the most cos mopoltan place in the world, and shows its comopoitanism most of all in its eat ing houses. ."-New York Mail and Ex- press.