Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1890-06-06
THE VERMONT PHOENIX, BRATrLEBORO FRIDAY JUNE g.
THE HOUSEHOLD.


Hiat- - Hsme Wsrkers absut skirts,
sleeves, Cellar, etc.
The home dressmaker who asks hints
about skirts is informed that several old de-
signs are returning to favor for instance,
for wool gowns tailors are again using the
short apron or hip drapery folded across
the front and sides just below the belt to
meet the long plated back breadths Of kilt
skirts. The preference is still, however,
given to the English skirt, quite plain in
front, or with few folds at each side OF
the top, giving a slight movement across
the front aud a great deal Of fullness at the
back, plated in many folds resting on each
other directly in the middle Of the back.
The back Of these dresses is heightened
in a way most undesirable for street wear.
Another fashion revived is that Of a series
of founces up the back Of the skirt with
an apron drapery for the front and sides
Dresses of black net have the straight Eng
lish skirt touching the floor in the back
and trimmed around the foot with a ruche
of French lace two inches wide.
All sleeves may be made over the usual
coat shape indeed, many dressmakers say
any other shaped lining will not fit, but
this admits Of many notifications. The
plain sleeve may be said to be unknown
just at present, the nearest approach to it
having a few gathers at the top in the out
err material, not the lining, with cut at
the wrist to admit the hand Another
form has more gathers at the top, and the
lower part fitting so tightly that, after be-
ing on, it buttons up the outer seam. Then
there in an ordinary shaped design, with a
French puff at the top. Velvet sleeves are
worn with velvet trimmed costumes. The
full sleeves gathered at the top require one
layer of sheet wadding between the lining
and outer material across the top and about
three inches deep to keep the gathers stand
ing out Cuffs are small, being merely 9
band of velvet or ribbon, a single or 1
double point, row of passementerie or 4
single passementerie ornament. Never
line sleeves with undressed cambria it i,
too sleazy to keep in position and protec
the outer material
High collars are seen ON street dresses
but gowns intended for the house are al
lowed to revel in any quaint fancy. Young
ladies may wear a round neck others lik,
a rolling collar: another collar has rolle'
edge with Aaring corners like Medici de
sign, which must Toe edged with wire be
tween the materials to keep it in shape
Use the new collar cabvas, cut your CO.
lars without seam in the back, and TO
comfort and neatness face them with sill
or sateen and press well when finished.
stylish high collar meets in front at bot
the top and bottom edges
The travelling public has again become
prominent factor in the country Poop
are going to their seaside and countr
homes, to Europe, to various interestin
places, and most Americans aim to trav
elegantly as well as comfortably. The da
i of the linen buster is over, and it is l
I longer the chief desire of the traveller
I have no baggage. Travelling costumes al
n very attractive this year. The cheyi
I dress may be made with a jacket over
S light vest, or with a basque and COLI
buTueu dWhl III lfOub oNNi Ohphlisob
n worn with a mans necktie. A plai
straight skirt and blouse waist is a dress
!, be worn under travelling cloak. II
d travelling cloaks are no longer unbecomin
e They are made of cloth or silk or the he
" silk and wool mixture called gloria. in tig
fitting or peasant garments. The mater
is not thought to require much trimmin
but big pockets, yokes and vests are alto
l. able