The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1890-02-08
CONCERNING COSTUMES.
Hoops and CrlnolIne Coming after
the Grippe Goes.
Correspondence of the Press.

NEW YORK, Feb. 6.-I was told today,
on high authority, that in less than six
months large hoops would be "in," and
that instead of the present elegant SIM
plicity in the making of dresses, the more
trimming you can pile on them the more
fashionable they will be. 1t was also pre-
dicted that fiounces, puffs and festoons
would be on all the skirts, and that it was
going to require twenty-seven yards of
material to make gown. 1 don't believe
it, and don't want to believe it for sew
eralreasons; the first being that tits quite
hard enough now to get dress when it
only needs twelve yards or SO, and the
second being that hoop costumes are hor-
rible, without any possibility of grace or
beauty.
was shown three beautiful imported
gowns, and 10! each had lining of
horsehair crinoline with two reeds run
clear around just about the knees. OF
course these now only serve to hold the
skirt out to moderate degree of fullness
and might even pass unnoticed, but if
straws show which way the wind blows
so also do bent reeds show that hoops
are on their way. In some respects this
will be blessing, for it will give the
photographers something to talk about.
They have been pretty dull since bustles
collapsed. A good many English ladies
have never abandoned them, and would
feel as if they were really immodest if
they went without them.
The new materials for spring and sum-
mer are coming in so fast that it is al
most impossible to keep them all in your
minds eye. There are also several quite
new colors which will undoubtedly have
a "run." One of them is fax blue, just
the color of the blue flax flowers, and it
has the double merit of being an abso-
lutely fast color, no matter in what ma
terial it is produced, and very becoming
to young people or those of fair COM
plexions, as it has the rare quality in
blue of showing up all the delicate flesh
tints instead of making them look leaden
or yellow. This dainty color is seen in
foulard and all the summer silks, as well
as in lawns and cotton fabrics.
The other blue is called Mandarin,
though it is difficult to understand what
gave rise to the name. 1t is true sky
blue, with a sort of a frosty bloom over it,
which gives silvery metallic luster very
pretty and becoming.
Challies will be used very much for
children's dresses, as it is soft, pretty,
cheap and keeps clean. The pretty fam
lily group will give thrifty little mothers
good idea of what to make for the ba-
bies. The palmer children's garments
are the easier they are to keep clean, and
cleanliness is the greatest charm of q
child's dress. characterization should
come second.
saw pretty and useful negligee for
young matrons, and I thought it would
be very easy garment to copy, so pre-
sent it. The model was Of old rose cash
mere with bands Of bias velvet of sort
of blush dark gray. and with the loose
front of fringed China silk in gray and
old rose. 1t could, however, be made in
any other becoming color or material.
The back is tight fitting, princesse shape.
1t needs six yards of cashmere, two of
India silk and one of velvet to make this.
and any pattern that has princesse back
VIII suffice lady of average intelligence
to make one like it. Even Ihave serious
thoughts of trying.
o. H.