Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-07

favUrite IS the coquille which Is only
pleated ruffls or plain strip turned back
ward and forward forming jabot. The
corsRges as well as skirts are adorned
with it, whether in silk, gauze or lace.
It Is the result of the long prevailing
fancy for volants aud flOunces, and is
used with them in obtaining effects. The
coquills on the side of the skirt and
uniting with the volant is much en-
ployed and makes a pretty frou- frou on
the straight aud untrimmed skirts. The
coquille OF lace which makes a line down
the skirt, IS oft the continuation of
broad volant which is arranged on the
back of the corsage, forming coquetish
basque finish; with this the open sleeve
with the RULED edge in the style Anne
d'Autriche are worn. To avoid the rep
etition of a simple fiounce, the heading
is changed in various ways; one of the
newest Is TO put ruche of small knots or
torsades of ribbon around the top of the
ruffls.
Again the heading is gathered three or
four times. forming little puffings be-
tween, or gallons aud fancy trimming OF
various kinds are arranged IN graduated
rows about the skirt above the flounce.
A chnugeable glacee silk may he trimmed
with O deep flounce of white lace, with
successive rows of black or dark colored
velvet ribbon, with a very Louis XVI,
effect. Sometimes also q broad en-
broidered or bead worked baul, or an
entredouX of passementerie encircles the
skirt above the hounce. The volant is
often cut comparatively narrow in front,
running up much higher on the siies.
The whole tendency is for more trimming
on the skirts and of q fanciful nature.
Light colored materials are much trimmed
with black ornaments.
Among the morning and travelling
dresses for autumn are woolens that
show large waters of darker or lighter
tint than the ground. The preferred
colors are wood drown aubergine purple
and composite blues tinged with gray.
The material Is draped Us simply as
possible upon an underskirt of silk. The
jacket is made to 1T at the back, but has
u straight front, which, If the tint of
the homespun or baize be neutral. may
be faced with brilliant silk tartan,
matching the blouse with which it is
worn.
A very pretty house dress is of silver
gray delaine, the bodice finished with
fold sleeves that are pulled at the top
and have buttons ana simulated button
DOlcS III Tue WulsL, lile sOI6 OIL
skirt and bodice being the same.
simple gown OF black serge has a
plated skirt aud blouse or skirt waist,
with only rows OF stitching as trimming.
The skirt waist is without lining and has
a broad box plat 10 front fastened by
Jet stud buttons, and there Is also a
breast pocket tor a watch. A shirt yoke,
deeply pointed in the back, is ne atty
stitched on the edges and the only full
ness is that held in small plaits at the
line of the waist. The collar is turned
oyer and worn with wide bias scarf of
black foulard tied in a large bow. The
belt is of undressed kid, fastened by
three narrow straps buckled in front.
They are also wide ribbed silk belts,
with buckles of black passementerle, in
which dull jet beads are introduced, 10
be worn by those dressing in mourning.
For an evening dress in light mourn
ing, black silk null is pretty material
made with O low bodice draped across
from side to side, showing no seams,
large but soft transparent sleeves of the
black null falling in a dropping puff to
the elbow, and a deep fall of white silk
null with scolloped edge around the low
neck. The edge of the slightly pointed
waist has gauze ribbon folded along it
and ending in rosette at the back. The
null skirt is very full and straight,
touches the floor and IS festooned across
the foot of the front and sides with a
gauze rosette at the point between the
festoons. Thin black wool open dresses
for evening are made up in baby fashion,
with the full waist aud skirt in one, at
rachel to a low necked yoke of guipure
lace or of embroidery and merely held at
the waist by q belt ribbon. Black velvet
ribbon two inches wide is used for the
belt. It is sewed in point at the top of
the bust in front, then drawn under the
arms TO meet at the waist line in the
middle of the back, where IL crosses to
form belt around the waist, and Is tied
in front with loops and ends. A silk slip
under this dress is cut in princess shape.
Trimming lace, with the scolloped edge
turned upward forms the V.
It is pleasant to learn that the wearing
OF black except for mourning Is not be as
fashionable as heretofore. Always a try
ing color and less universally becoming
that has been supposed, it is well sup
planted on fashion Is color card by tiuts
and hues of colors that give life to the
picture made by an aggregation of
women.