The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1890-10-05

nacle of fashion, and is mounted as the yell
low center of a great daisy with petals OF
diamonds. Some of the new pins take the
flat old-fashioned shape in gold, engraved
with design. Others are many-pointed
stars within circles of pearls. A pretty
shape is crown with points Of pearls and
rubles. New designs are silver lizards set
with pearls, lunches of grapes in pearls
with leaves and stems in green gold, feru
fronds set with brilliantS and miniatures of
French beauties in round pins with tiny
pearls in the plaits OF their hair and pearled
ribbons twisted about their faces for frames.
Some Of the daintiest chatelaine pendants
are oval mirrors framed like writing tablets
in gold. A new bracelet IS five strings of
pearls held together in places by diamond
studded bars. Another is five hoops OF
different jewels, emeralds, diamonds ru-
bies, diamonds. sapphires. The newest
bracelet watch is set like round locket in a
gold chain studded with rubies and diamonds.
The rings seen are either marquise designs
or are wires set with large gems on bars
diagonally. Last evening at the opera there
was opportunity to observe fine displays of
corsage ornaments. A young Parlsenne
wore q necklace of diamond stars with
large pearl forming the middle of each and
festoons of diamonds hanging from point to
point with pendants If immense pear-shape
pearls. Another noticeable ornament was
necklace of rOseleayeS done in pierced work
in gold, laVishly set with diamonds and hay
ing pendants of splendid emeraldS. The
young COmteSSe de Gontaut BirOn (nee De
Lesseps) wore a hair ornament of gold
pierced work, Stimulating a ribbon bow in
front, with a diamond of great size in tho
middle and hundreds of smaller stones lend
ing Stal-like briliancy. To this she added
a cOllarette in gold pierced work, diamond
studded and with splendid diamond stars.
Gold acorns with diamond foliage make new
sprays Tor the bodice, only less sparkling
than lilies In gold with diamond-tipped
stamens, and leaves of the same blazing
stones. Flights of swallows or dragon flies
in diamonds are brilliant corsage decora-
tions ifnOt altogether novel; equally beau
tiful is ribbon knotted in loops and
studded with pearls and diamonds.
The paniered dress advances on us slowly.
Winter costumes, to the casual observer
are almost as straight and severe in their
draperies as those Of the past two or three
seasons, but it needs only little attention
to detect the signs of something quite diff
ferent to come. Dinner and reception
dresses, especially when of brocaded stuffs.
affect small fiat paDiers, often combined
with oyerdresses cut in deep scallops and
edged with long and heavy fringe.
A recent example is rich dress of
a petticoat of dark blue The paniers of
the plain silk are cut as appendages of the
bodice and lie so closely on the hips that
one would hardly suspect them of slyly paw
ing the way Tor 4 return to Douffancy. A
black silk costume illustrates another new
idea with its close sleeves, above which, on
the shoulders, are gathered wings of black
lace falling below the waist in broad and
open 0ver-SleeyeS.
One is constantly seeing new and luxuri-
GUS things in winter wraps a heavy car
riage cloak is in gray brocade deeply
shocked at the neck, with a high frilled
collar, edged with silver fox fur and lined
with pale pink. Gray velvet with lining of
crimson makes another handsome combi-
nation. The circular cloaks for opera and
concert wear in cream color. pale pink
light blue, gray or even pale yellow are very
gay with their fancy yokes of tnsel fabric
sleeves are not seen either on the new eos
tunes or on fall jackets, but braided sleeves
are the especial feature of some OF the pref
test coats of the autumn.
COPYRIGHT. ELLEN OsBoRN