Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-04-19

except high tariff. lack of transit and q few
other obstacles which might easily be removed
were our legislators less inconceivably stupid,
any more than for the fact that the United
States merchants are compelled to send the
few goods they can now dispose of in Brazil.
DC. away around by Havre, Hamburg and
Liverpool
WE CROSSED THE EQUATORIAL LINE
in the night soon after leaving the coast of
Colombia, and, contrary to all expectations,
the weather grew preceptibly cooler instead of
giving US an increase of heat. The steamer
reaches Guayaquil on the evening of the fourth
day out from Panama. During most of the
time we are beyond sight of land, the blue and
placid waters of the Pacific filling the horizon
on all sizes, but sometimes to the eastward
when the msts OF morning are dispelled and
before the evening shadows fall the lofty Cor
dilleras that form the northernmost spur of
the Andean chain suddenly stand out full in
view smoke Issuing from the tops of some of
them, proving that we are fast approaching the
region of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions
On the morning OF the third day something
that looks like gigantic corpse floating on the
water is dimly visible through a yellow haze,
which we know to be the Isla del Muerto. or
Dead Mans lsland'-an unmistakable land
mark for seamen. marking the entrance to the
gull OF Guavaquil In order to make for the
port OF Ecuador our course is now sharply
changed due eastward and. though the MAIN
land Is not dscernlble through the fog, its
proximity is unmistakably announced bv a
complete change of odors, the salty and fishy
smells OF the sea being overpowered by a mix
ture OF malarlal dampness and the fragrance of
tropical fruits and flowers Presently We pass
THE ISLAND OF GoRGoSA,
famous as the site of Pizarro's desperate deed
OF devotion, and the Cape of Emeralds at the
mouth of the Guayaouil, where he first landed
and whence the towering submits of Cotopaxi
and Chimborazo are for the first time plainly
seen IN all their majesty. To the left lies Puma
Island. on which the stern conqueror bore up
so long against open foes and treacherous
friends and organized that small but desperate
force with which he subdued the richest and
most powerful OF Americas ancient empires.
The Gulf of Guayaquil is very large but its
channel is narrow and tortuous. At times We
steam close to the low, shiny shores, which are
lined with mangrove trees, among whose
gnarled roots numbers of alligators and water
snakes find congenial homes, while farther out,
In the safety OF deep water, huge porpoises
show their shining black sides in uncouth gam
bos.
Our attention was called to tiny island
green as an emerald ''set in the ring of the
wave" close by which Spanish treasure ship
is said to have sunk q century and half ago
with several million doubloons ON board. To
this day divers occasionally bring up golden
coin.
They assure us that in many places off the
coasts of Chill and Peru ships laden with
treasure were purposely sunk during the war,
and all the world is welcome to recover the
money. providing only that half Is given to the
government.
The Guabas river empties into the gulf Of
Guayaquil, and sixty miles up its narrow and
winding course is Ecuadors only seaport
called Santiago de GEOGRAPHICALLY a hun
dred miles from the ocean. And just as twilight
shades shut off the view we find ourselves an
chored opposite the port, which we will pro-
coed to explore. FANNIE B. WARD.