The morning call., 1890-11-09
FASHIONS FOR
THE MEN.
The Latest Ideas in Regard TO
What Is Most Appropriate.
Jewelry That Does Not gerve a Necessary
Purpose and Distinctive One Should
Not Be Worn-Kc ottings.

@,HE well-bred gentleman will not wear
Xxx any jeWelry that does not serve a
eUSN necessary and distinct purpose.
The various ideas of crests, monograms,
initials and other devices in embroidery en-
grated upon handkerchiefs for the aggrand-
dizement or Identification of the owner has
been worked to death. There is a novelty,
however, in handkerchief decorations that
has reached a noticeable degree of popular
ity in a very short time. 1t is the plan Of
having the photograph of wife, children or
sweetheart or your own physiognomy taken
on the corner of the article, either in linen
or silk The chemical processes have been
perfected so that the likeness will neither
wash out of or fade upon the fabric.
The success of the high-backed turnover
collars-than which more feasible. COM
Portable OF stylish article has not come into
the realm of mems furnishings in many a
year-has brought quantity of new de-
signs recently into the field. Most OF these
are praiseworthy. Some of them are over
done. Great articles, like great men, find
in caricature the tribute that they are
worthy of consideration
There are several mems furniShers that
will direct their customers TO certain pho
tograrhers who do this work as speciality.
or if a photograph is provided they will take
the order to have the likeness transferred.
There is another somewhat satirical phase
of this sentimental fad, when one thinks
of the blowing of ones nose mayhap upon
the eyebrow Of ones best below d.
AS the neck-dreSSings grow larger, richer,
Shower in texture and more versatile in
form the scar;-pins. as if regulated by a
simple in design A plain old-gold ball of
the circumference Of tiye-cent silver piece,
studded with turquoise-a revived pattern
is very distingue.
PINS IN TIES.
The presence of scarf-pin In the Teck
scarf or any other style of palpably made
ND neckwear. where no fastening is required
to hold it in place, is solecism Of the rank
est type. The otfense is so often committed
and so frequently advised by minimizing
writers that one finds periodical protest to
be necessary.
The big stunning, irregular knottings
sitter the London models afford tie most
congenial opportunity TO the scarf-pin. Its
exploitation nesting half-hldden in the en-
meshing soft folds of the fabrics, as if striv-
ing to hide rather than show itself, is quite
In chime with the superlative of high tone.
There has been an astonishing metropolis
tan declaration in favor OF the tieable neck
wear Of late. The new DIAGRAMS showing
the various movements are hung up conspic-
uously in the furnishing stores, and the
oblgipg clerks are always ready 10 coach"
the novice in the preliminary trials.
method of the men that lead and study the
fashions. Do not try to eQuivocate and put
the pin in the middle, r0seite-lke, or in one
corner. There Is but one proper, place for
1t, and If it is not there you will be suspect
ed of not knowing any better.
Whether because of the memories OF the
grip" that directly or remotely left large
proportion of the population in afiliction last
winter, it is certain that underwear Is beiI
selected more than ever for health ana
warmth, rather than upon the grounds Of
prettitude.
The big, cumbersome scarfs in the variety
of snowy combinations are quite as large
when spread out as the average muller.
There will be no competition, however, as
the public pulse seems to have settled that
all-white or ail-blacK will be most sought
after.
1t certainly seems good scheme for the
father, husband or lover; but 1t is rather
dangerous system of evidence against the
man about town that lie has his own face
depicted on his moucholr to accompany him
in his rOundelay of the highways of Gotham.
The showing of umbrellas and canes is as
ornamentive as is usually the case much
nearer the holiday season. There are some
artistically treated handles of silver and
bone. in new and fetching designs.
AN EXCUSE.
In the made-up puff-scarf there is, OF
course, a place for the pin where the folds
cross, which might or might not be tackled
and the Datter'S condition affords the excuse
fol the ornaments utilization.
The first pair of walking gloves are to be
bought this month. They are of Craven and
Lemontan and IN variety OF the regulation
shades OF brown. There is indeed a larger
selection this year than last
A gentleman, OF course, may wear a gift
ring or locket without offending good form
indeed it would be ungallant not to do so.
But there must DO some sentiment or asso-
If nd
The ultra-g glove Of promenade, offered only
by few high class dealers. i, denoniinated
in good descriptive way-"putty color"
There is spearhead back and just enough
of stitching in red.
No matter how high, or how low, or how
straight or crooked the scarf-pin is inserted
in the irregular scarhngs, the head must
positively be found eSconced in the center
Of the scarf.
So are the cable knots of about the same
size. The jewels in he finer goods save of
pears-and these of all colors-Seem to have
been temporarily shelved in the current
demand.
In the four-in-hand knot the head of the
pin must fall in the center of the cross-fold
upon its lower rim, giving the effect Of hold
ing the knot firm ut that most critical point.
The large fve-inch wide "once-over
Ascots represent the premiership in the
neckwear field and are truly the acme OF re-
fined elegance when worn.
1t Is QUE OF the conditions OF the luxury OIL
wearing scarf-pin, which the present code
imposes upon the asprant, that he must first
learn to tie his own scarf.
Many of the dress shirts made to order are
constructed now with the hgh-backed turn
over collars-the bosoms being wide and of
unvarying plainness.
There are large number Of fancy
bosomed dress shirts ordered, but they al
most invariably are selected for the out-of-
town trade.
White undressed kids for evening wear
self-stitchiDg.-Clo and Furnisher.