Morning journal and courier., 1890-04-26
 MIR. WAKEMANsS JOURNEYINGS

cQeerIul VleWe or llIo, ana Wltn raul, IO thank God and take courage. HILARY. MIR. wAKEMAN,s JOURNEYINGs. At Naples, Italy-observat1ons From
 Etna-Palermo-AL Look at the Ioni-
 er-Bronte-Ways of the People
 Their FIocks and Vineyards.
 NAPLES, Italy, March 2S. To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
 An ascent of Etna will suggest great op- portunities for Sicilian observation in tra- versing the circle of cities and villages at the tremendous base of the mountain. A road such as it is, nearly one hundred and fifty miles long, forms the pinkish and dirty thread upon which all these lava threatened towns seem to be strung. Perhaps @ fourth of the distance can be made by rail, along the Ionian sea at Atna's eastern base. On our return from the ascent of Etna I per suaded Balbino to turn over the affairs of his tiny slbsrghetto or inn to his grinning and greasy helpmeet, and not only accompa- ny me on the tour around Atna, but to then remain my companion across the entire isl- and to Palermo, over the old road upon
 
 chased each other back and forth with such lively energy from one to two thousand years ago.
 As Palermo, the beautiful, is the imperial city of every loyal Sicilian; as Balbino had never set eyes upon it, and this would be his one chance of lifetime for seeing it; and az there was pleasant reward set at the other end of his friendly eervioes; after extraordi- nary excitement and preparation for depar. ture we set out by rail to Giardini, a little nest of malaria and vermin almost half way along the eastern Sicilian coast to Messini, where we secured two excellent donkeys, leaving one half of their hire as caparra or earnest money; made excellent provision for e weeks out door life. if the conditions of the lonely and filthy roadside inns rendered that necessary; and at once began climbing the mountain road, leading from the sea to the little hamlet of Gaggi. on our way around the northern foot hills of Etna. Just before reaching the latter we halted for last look at the Ionian sea. To tha north east the lower reach of the Italian peninsula was plainly visible across the strait of Mes- 
 their roofs along the Sicilian shore edge to the north; and so near that it seemed one could toss stone into it's ruinous streets, lay Taormina, the ancient Tauromenium, 8 perfect unhoused museum of architectural monuments ot all ages.
 We were travelling toward the source of the Alcantara river; and the road lays along the brow of the mountain range above. The d- continually below us to the left. Beyond, and constantly in view, rose another range of mountains, and Etna's peak, from eight cen to twenty miles distant, loomed grandly above. Here and there through intervening valleys were caught glimpses of populous cities lying still further up Etna's sides Piedimonte, peopled by mountaineers; Lin- auagrossa and Castiglione, where thousands of the peasantry are engaged exclusively in cultivation of hazel nuts; and Mojo, stand ing against the side of the most northern crater of the Atna region. Indeed, all the way from the sea through Franoavilla, where we rested at noon, to Randazzo, which we reached tsfore dark, the scenery in every di- rection is of an Alpine character. Deep and clear cut valleys, showing masses of luxuri- ant verdure; tremendous peaks cutting sharp against sky of intensest blue; foaming riv- CTS and feathery mountain cascades continu- ally flashing upon the sight; high perched ruins of Hellenic, Roman and the later Nor man fortresses, everywhere reminding of a heroic past; and romantic capanne or huts peeping from forest openings half way to the clouds; with glints and gleams of color from the clothing of shepherds and mouEtaineers; all contributed to windsorhe blending of the sublime, the romantic and the pictur- esque.
 night; for Bslbino found lodging for us at the house of friend, and the embracing, chatter, pipes, wine and floods of fearful "reminiscences of these folk, separated only by one mountain, but celebrating a reunion as though they had girdled the earth for the meeting, was an enthralling spectacle. But when the morning came and we had set out again, our host running beside us for miles \ on our way towards Bronte, and had got op l posite the medieval rookery, what . scene for painter lay back there against the eide of Etna. Here were the peaks dividing the sources of the Aloantara, which circles the sweeps about it to the south. Behind Ran. dazzo to the north the empurpled peaks we I had set behind us the day before. To the east a half dozen ordinary mountains against l the sun swept sides of Etna like tiny purple warts against it's stupendous contour. And then ancient Rsndazzo perohed above deer 1 ravine, it's Norman churches, tremendous I tOWolb huu uucnA pu1uCocS S0Ay 0PosACooAs of middle age magniacence and power. One cannot wonder at Frederick II. loving Ran dazzo, "the populous," or for drawing the magnificent old spot closer to his heart by conferring the title of Duke of Rondazz: upon one of his sons; nor can simple minded Balbino be blamed for believing that hif insignificant little island of Sicily ,contains more area, wealth, power and people than al the rest of the world. Randazzo has popu lation of ten thousand souls; Bronte. whicf we reached for mid day rest, fully sixteer thousand; Aderno, to which we came late a
 night, fourteen thousand. Thriving villages dot the way between. Yet all of these ar' actually upon the sides of Etna, at time
 desolatsd, but always fertilized by it's inAu
 encel
 The situation of Bronte, with its mass o rude houses, churches. convents and for ; tresses, is curious study in the freakful ac
 ton of Etna. It lies to the east of an l above deep valley, its buildings piled alon