Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1890-04-27

tails beneath the plaitings of the full flow
ing sleeve
For wee tots nothing is more charming
than the simple little coats of China silk
In white or pale colors, either figured OF
plain. Those of Illuminated pongee are
among the newest things shown.
Very jaunty is little jacket of plaid
rough faced camers hair with corded edge
For smaller girl yoke is formed Of
crossed white wooden braid, which is very
pretty and striking. The cloak is of JAG
guard camers hair in shaded tans, with
three double box plaits in the back and
front, held in shirrs. These are full-raised
sleeves and cuffs and collar of golden.
brown velvet. This is for girl Of about
years.
A striking garment is of heliotrope SOU
taine cloth, with yoke of dahlia velvet
overlaid with black Vandyke passemen-
terie; the cloth is shirred on to the yoke,
and there is Bolero jacket of velvet over
the blouse front.
Eifiel Tower points of white faille are
elaborately embroidered and applied on
white cashmere cloaks, while others are of
silk, braided in soutache cord.
/ The blouse waist infants cloak is new,
and a relief from the ubiquitous yoke.
The Gretchen waist seems to enjoy a
perennial popularity, as most of the small
chIldren's garments are made in TINS style
A delicious little example is coat of
wild-rose surah, with full sleeves, the wide
cavalier collar and cuffs being of Vandyke
Irish lace.
Cute little coats of amazone cloth have
short waists, covered with capes, formed of
three pinked collars.
A more ornate style has yoke outlined
by fringe ruche, the same trimming on
the fronts and edges.
] is trimmed with lace and relieved by a
feather stitching of pale green.
Plaids are still fashionable, but in very
soft shades of color. In fancy wooden ma
terials they are chiefly employed for trav-
cling costumes or children's frocks. In
surah they form very pretty walking
toilets. The shades preferred are light
browns and dullish greens, relieved by
streaks of white. red or golden-brown.
Fancy stripes are also fashionable, both
in woolen and silk materials, but the nov
city of the season consists in the pretty
chimes of light fancy woolens, such as
muslin-de-laine, woolen gauze, and CHI
lienne, which is new name for barege.
The chine pattern is in mixed colors, over
light colored ground, cream, ivory, pale
gold or rose color. Gowns of this style
are made very simply, the skirt plated in
panels, surplice fashion, at the sides, in
full double plaits at the back, and almost
plain in front, but they require an under
skirt of glance silk or foulard of one of
the colors of the pattern. The bodice is
generally made of plated and crossed
fronts, showing small peaked plastron of
silk in the middle. The sleeves have
puffed out epauletes fastened with brace
let of ribbon, and finished with silk at the
wristband
Plain fabrics are, on the other hand,
made up with jacket bodice, close fitting,
with five seams at the back, and coming
down few inches below the waist, with
small peak in front and at the back.
Sleeves pulled up at the shoulders and
tight at the wrists. The back of the skirt
is often made of some other material, ar
ranged in straight plaits all the way down,
and slightly trained, while si'les and front
form plain panels, frequently trimmed
with bralding or passamenterie. Some
times the trimming is merely put on
around the skirt front.
A handsome garment of this kind is of
oak-brown cashmere and faille. The back
of the skirt is of plated faille, the front
and sides'of the cashmere, with trimming
of passementarie and fringe on each side
edging the front of the skirt. The Jacket
bodice is of cashmere with collar and cuffs
of silk and trimming of passementarie
over the back and fronts, Stimulating a short
Spanish jacket.
Nothing is more refined for an elderly
matrons best gown than a black armure or
a gray faille, trimmed with lace plait-
ing round the neck, sleeves, and down
the front as a jabot. Sometimes the
basque is left plain, and either black or
white lace scarf draped to form loose
plastron, with lace to correspond basted in
the sleeve. The pansy shades, in vogue
once more, are charming on women past
their middle bloom as we'll as their first
freshness.
A charming afternoon gown is of porce-
laine surah, having an almost plain front,
two box x-plaits in each side and gathered
round the front of the skirt behind a row
of black lace vandykes pointed up. Down
the center OF each plait run two rows of
lace, with the points meeting in the CEN
ter, and on the straight edges are bands on
velvet two inches wide. The round bodice
is without darts, and gathered in the mid
die, front and back of the waist line. Leg
o-mutton sleeves; collar of velvet, with
vandykes set around, pointing downward
| like yoke.
Sarah Bernhardt, apart from the sensa-
tion created by her rendering of the char
| acter Of Lena in "As In a Looking Glass"
has, with the handsome toilets she displays
in this part, again given Paris something
to talk about. She appears in the first act
in dress of sulphur yellow peou de sole.
The blouse waist has an arrangement in
white tulle, which below the waist is fast
ened with white satin bands ending in
bows in front, the long. tight sleeves,
scantily gauged, being edged with lace
white heue collarette, large white tulle hat,
of which a falling rufile of lace on the edge
| and bows of white satin ribbon and bou-
quet of cornfower form the trimming. In
the second act she wears Princess robe of
Venetian guipure lace over green "Jeune
pousse" satin. The front breadth is
loosely draped and has revers of green
crepe lisse. A toilette of cherry-red and
white brocade, devant of white silk gauze
and golden embroidery, with revers and
bows of red velvet, enhance her charms in
the third act; and in the fourth, though
imbued with suicidal views, Lena has still
some regard for appearances, and aston
ishes her audience in a princess wrapper
on bronze pressed velvet designs on a white
ground, bordered with white Thibet fur.
The front, of white silk gauxe, is drawn
| together at the waist with handsomely
chased and jewe.ed belt long loose sleeves
Tightening at the waist.
JENNIE B. WARD.
Saving Of Bismarek