The sun., 1890-01-05
WINTER FASHIONS ABROAD.


The stage is after all the real arbiter of
general fashion. and In Paris IL designer
wishes to introduce new mode he has only to
persuade some favorite premiere to appear in
1t and 1t is readily adopted
Exquisite and beautiful indeed are the Co.'S
tunes worn. illustrating the charm OF ultra
fashionable novelties with convincing grace
Take, for instance the gowns displayed by the
actresses in NJ. Daudets play. La Lutte pour
In Nie." at the Paris Gymnase One is a tea
gown Of black silk elaborately embroidered in
pink and black opening In front and at the
back over skirt OF pink silk veiled with pink
crepe: and magnificent dinner dress worn In
the prison scene Is OF emerald velvet
trimmed with snbe. opening at the right
side over breadth OF thick white silk,
embroidered with gold. The sleeves OF
white silk, with gold embroidery, fall
open on the upper side, showing the arm. and
the sable trimming begins on the left shoulder
under cluster OF diamonds, crosses the bodice
dlagonally. and thence falls in two bands, to
cover the junction OF the velvet and silk In the
skirt A collar OF fur is fastened about the
neck with diamond clasp. and diamonds COM
pletely cover that side OF tho bodice undecor-
ated with fur. very smart and coquettish
widows Dress worn In the same play. Is OF
over a front OF Grape. which material, together
with figaro of dull passementerie. embellishes
the bodice. A jaunty little crepe poke bonnet,
with its flowing veil completes the costume.
which rather signifies a willingness OF the
wearer to be emancipated from her weeds.
At the Theatre Francois one Of the actresses
wears a dress OF bscuit-colored cloth. with
graduated bands Of golden brown velvet rum
ming round the entire width OF the skirt. after
the fashion OF out mothers in their youthful
days. Similar graduated bands oncircle the
bodice from the waist to the bust, while the
sleeves are entirely OF velvet. An extremely
small toque. on which Is poised butterfly with
large futtering blue wings, COMPLETES the sim
But Mrs. bernard Boeres wonderful Empire
gowns are the dresses the feminine world rave
over and shatter the tenth commandment on
beholding. Tho most magnificent gown is the
1t is constrained affair Of Chartreuse green.
eaborately embroidered with gold all round
G train Sers we Of @
hang among the wrought leaves. and u heavy
gold girdle confines the, bodice, which Is
its waist Another sumptuous gown has
OF gauze embroidered all over with rosebuds
IN II trellis work. A dark cloth mantle. n big
piGtnrG,sGue hat anh Direetolre stick adorned
also n beautiful cloak, q superb short-walsted
affair of white satin. lined throughout with
cult to decide whether the beautiful wearer Of
all this elegance enhances its beauty. or
she IS faultless in figure and graceful in move-
ment and gesture.
No material enjoys greater favor this year
than CLOTH both for the smartest OF walking
costumes and in combination with velvet,
faille. siciliene, and poplin for the most dressy
OF demi-toilets; and now 1t is reported that one
Of the leading dressmakers is about to bring
out some decollet6 cloth CONNECTIONS for dinner
and opera wear. 1t seems that this fabric
lends itself very kindly to Renaissance decora-
tions OF velvet applique and needleworl, and
besides We must have something now under
the sun. Fancy dress OF sieux rose -colored
cloth Of such exquisite quality as to be almost
as soft and glossy velvet with decoration
OF leaves and flowers In shaded silk with VEIN
inGs OF gold and panels OF crimson velvet A
sleeveless bodice. arranged to fit the figure by
means OF side seams and few flutes only,
has V-shaled decoration Of the embroidery
and .puh of velvet ut the shoulder
woW F1ssp S2 %h black 5GqsE sbs Ts
style. and cream white, tea petal tinted
orange. or apricot cloth is bordered with Rus
sian sable or perhaps feather trimming Of the
same color. Cloth is also ,made up In combi-
nation with, striped plush. black and white
shades OF ruby red in combination with fir
he uhs IN ro Rs a. he
tight bodice. of plush Is laced down the front
with inch-Tide crimson laces n1isheI, with
laces with their [anciful tags are quite the
thing for lacng bodices and sleeves as we'll
and are tied on the outside in little bows.
All sorts OF Innovations and novelties are now
being introduced, not merely in the decoration
and Arrangement OF material. but in the cut
and fashionng OF the waist. Seams arc short
ened and changed in shape those OF the shoul-
der especially being curtailsd until the sleeve
is half way up from the curve Of the ehoulder
to the throat. Side seams are brought SO far
forward that they almost dsplace the darts.
and tho latter are frequently dispensed with !
altogether by leaving the extra iulness pleated |
in at the waist Whom the dress fabric drapes |
scariwse over ths shoulder. there is no shoul.
der seam at all in the material, and the most
complicated and pnzzlinG arrangements for
bodices iiasten at the back, some at the side,
BY % Of St eonseaeG RdoFs SaS
ohn Woman, " who can arrange all these COM C
pica,ed fasenings, and wise Indeed is she
san unalded and unadvlsed get herself out OF
\ again: Ludwig In La B1eheronne wears an
skirt is only plated al the back. and the front
Or Or three S' small folds pIeated into the Is seams
behind the hips. Tho faultessly itting
bodice Is laced behind, pleated slightly on
short shoulders and high sleeves The
trimming consists Of seven rows OF black vel
ranged en- cercsau and graduated In width from
hree inches TO one-halI an inch. The, same
Iuaintness OF effect and return to, old;time
fashions is apparent 100. in demi-toilet dress
,s many Of them being cut down, en- c1nr in
ront or slantingly from the TOP q the % shouIder
sleeve. which covers two thirds OF the upper
lrm, has the material put Cd rather full over q