The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1890-06-13
New York Fashions.
HATS AND TRAVELLING cLoAKs.

dresses. 1t may be black or the color
of the gown, and is very simply trimmed
with ribbon loops or rosettes, and some
wings, or bunch of dark garden
flowers, or leaves, wheat, or fruit.
BLACK SILK DRESSES.
The black silk dresses that always
form a part of the wardrobe of women
of conservative taste are made of ben
galine, of faille, of thick reps, or else of
the royal silk woven in fiat reps. Their
trimmings are fine jets In open branch
ing passementerie, closer GALLONS with
straight edges, and rain-fringes. with
also many shaped pieces of jet passem-
enterie in curves, in yoke shapes, epau
let's, girdle pieces, etc. When jet is
not used some of the fashionable gold
passementeries are employed, and often
lace is added in gathered jabots and
piece lace in full blouse vests and side
panels. The designs for such dresses
are now very simple, to prevent the
heavy look which thick silk and jet too
often give. The skirt is nearly straight,
slightly curved at the top Of the front,
with wide side pleats, or else panels of
jet, of ribbon, or of gathered net or
scolloped lace. aud the straight back
breadths are gathered at the top, to
hook over the edge of the bodice in a
standing frill or in q large chou, a
rosette of the silk or the trimming Of
lace or Of ribbon. The bodice has a
dull point IN front, with V at the top,
filled in with full jabots of lace or
figured net, or with wide gold ribbon,
or narrower gold ribbon set on black
net. The high collar i, similarly
trimmed, and may be either straight
band or faring outward in Medicis
fashion The sleeves are high and
slightly full at the top, not very large,
with close wrists buttoued by small
crocheted buttons and loops, or else
turaed back in little cuffs and finished
out to the hands by small uuder-slceves
If no: gathered into fril.
More dressy black silk gowns for
summer u.e are of the lace striped
surahs, or of figured surah with small
spotted designs, some large and almond
shaped, aud others the merest petit pois
dots, or else with small woven sprays
sprigs, single frwers, or buds. or the
pretty butterfly or bow knot patter ps :;
their cost is $50 a yard, and only
fifteen or sixteen yar,is are required,
though most dress makers still demand
twenty yards, as they did when full
draperies were used. These surahs are
made up in the siuple manner just
described, with sometimes color added
at the neck in fluffy, soft folds OF
muusselne de sole or crepe de Chine,
either dull rose, bright green, pale
yellow, or the very shades Of vicux
blue.
If more color is desired in black
dresses, India silks are chosen will
black ground strcwn with rcd carna-
tons, yellow buttercups, small roses
single violets, or white spots in large
rings of clear china blue. Open
arabesque passcmenteries of fine jet are
laid over silk the color of the figure in
the India silk for the collar and wrist.
bands of these dresses, and the coored
silk is set in pleats down the front Of
the bodice, with two rows of black lace
gathered to meet upon it and fall out,
ward. Others have merely ribbons oil
black gros grain and of the color of the
figure arranged upon each other in
dias onal rows across the front of the
bodice, or in bretelles, and edging the
dull point below the waist line, fastened
under large rosette in the back with,
out hanging ends. Two straight rows
of the ribbons, tied twice 10 large bows,
are down the right side of the skirt, and
two or three diagonal rows, each ending
in rosette, trim the left side.
BRoCADE COATS WITH LACE SKIRTS
Very rich black toilettes for after
noon receptions have Louis Qlatorzr
coats of black silk brocadcd with color
in small bios, oms-roses, forget me nots.
corn flowers, or daff1dils-made with
great deal of colored silk muslin in
front, and worn with skirt of black
lace. either Of acolloped Chantilly
skirtlng, or the new nets with applique
velvet spots, feur de lis, or stripes,
or indeed, with any favoritc net
trimmed with black or gold ribbons.
The coats are nearly of three quarter