New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-04-17
NEW PUBLICATIONS.
GASTRONOMY.
DELICATE FEASTING. BY Theodore Child 12no
pp I'D. Harper & brothers.

that all dinner, are good-Thaccray tell, story Of
a collection of menus belonging to friend wni'h
he used sometimes to dip into and the visions "i
fcastng in which Invariably excited in him hcr'e
hunger demanding appeasemcnt forthwith. II l.
true that such valiant trenchcrmcn as the au1n"r OF
the Memorials Of COMMANDING are ra'c '"" ~
unlappily most people to-day. however '"'''''" "
other respects fail to recognize the importance "
good eating. and for the most part lie "h"'' ''o
ha,efp illusion-noxious survival of past as'c''"
that it is somehow shameful 10 take oue' ioF ''0
careful selection and preparation OF ioon-i"o' "r'"
which, Notwithstanding this prejudice inc su''c>S "
failure Of all their efforts in life manly dcpehus' IL
Is cause coAsratulaon that souilder doctrine "p"
This grave subject is being disseminated; that the
American palate is being educated; ana lNat TIC Ill
cyitabe results Of this enlightenment III eencr"i
softening Of manners, a general access 81 pohN"' "
general growth in refinement, are already distinctly
perceptibc. There consequently many men AMI
let us venture TO add many women also-wh0 are
capable OF appreciatng and ssvoring MI 'mn
volume Delicate Fcasting." and who Ike mack
cray. will. they pcru>c the various recipes ana
accounts of good dinners cnshrined III Ms pages, cA
perence the same noble rage Of hunger which drove
the great writer to seek immediate sustenancc after
reading the "carte>" in his friends gaSr0noc ALBUM
Mr. Child Is evidently pllamthropic and an
emotional epicure, and this fact enhances the charm
of his discourse greatly lie thinks of the immense
number of bad dinners that eaten every DAY,
ignerantly and uncomplaininely and he mourns over
the persistence of the conditions which render the old
saw about cooks and food no less applicable than IN
the barbarous era OF its invention. Yet he does not
attack the evils and abuses of the modern kitchen
savagcy. who had no hope of reform might do.
on the contrary, he to the victims of bad cook
ing: Come Let Us reason together and lie pro
ceeds give gentle dose Of physiology and OF chch
cal analysis. just to set forth the scenthc aspects
of the subject and indicate the hygicnic co>dcTa
tons which underle. solid foundation. the
aesthetic views through the cultivation OF when eaflhg
all dana nd
solemn function and a fine art. II j. necessary 10
the argument to make careless and reckless eater
comprehend what terrible things lie Is doing with his
stomach If the proverb be wcllfonnded that every
man fool physician at forty" the general in
difference TO good cooking might he construed as an
indication that vegy few physicians were thus evolved
But no doubt in another century mankind VIII realize
the Importance of this subject and Will nave AT least
conquered dyspepsia, which Is the punishment Ill
ficted by nature for persistent breach OF her laws
We're il capable of enforcement, Congressional Act
banshng the frying pan from the states and Terri
tories Of the Union would be productive possibly OF
moro substantial benefit to the people than pAraiel
law prohibiting the diStlation and sale OF wiskcy lot
tho frying pan has dreadful record Its sins are oa'A
and cry 10 Heaven it has poisoned countless men alo
women aud children embittered millions OF lives
generated woful quantities Of that curdled PSEUDO
religion whose germsac j. ds0Idercd lVeI. darn
ened many home: driven scores Of thousands 10
drink and made heart burrinss and hatred' ana eVl
,empers wherever il abomnable cult has pe"e'fa'c"'
From the noisome issues OF the fryinspan 1" the
Apican bauquc;s whereof Mr.. child writes 50 zee
nglv is indeed a long distance. Lu II Is Journey
which has to be mad, before rc,t red Snr smiling
and contcnted pccp,. can occupy Ia. eh .a>ron'm
plane upon which he rests. Ii may possibly De-
objected by some hypercli,a. reader THAI irasmuch a.
the confectioa Of the majority Of the savory dishes
described in thi, book demands the assistance of
large and amply equipped kitchen and an extensive
q l.:f de cui~u the l.
those who seek an appetite by the manual llior OF
cutting coupons. and who are able to keep procsscd
ooohs. This objection, however only regard
AS frivolous. No doul, ,oinc Of the "plats7 for
which Mr. Child gives recipes, only be fty
prepared by artist provided with many things not
found in the average kitchen. Int does The fact
that very few painters can rise 10 the top OF ths
tree and that none can hope to rival the crca:
MASTER, operate to hinder any lad Of parts from hand
ling the brush! What Mr. Child tells the public Of
The higher my sterics OF the eastiOnOmic is {,
edncation much more than to imitation Not ali
can attain the bcatiic vision. but al car strv:
after it, Meantime there arc some choice di>lc,
not difficult TO prepare, indicated in thes, Page
Regard, for example. the recipe for Chacaliriand
Ia Matre dIOtel" given page, lO21O3. 1t I,
indeed less simple than it appears. Tor 10 Ittl.
judgment and experiences eocs 10 the proper COOK
ing OF the thick flet with all the rich juices ia IT,
Tut it be achieved without the kitchen Of
millionaire and in the achievement there +, d,tnc
advance OF CIVILIZATION. This be said q
divers other recipes in the volume
Mr.. Child talks beautifully about tie cooking o.
vegetables and the serving thereof, and hi,
concerning soups strike /, emin-ntly sound and
artistic Your thick, strong soups have no place in
a rational menu They satisfy APPETITE instead @.
stimulating. Truly does Mr.. Child observe that the
proper function of soup is TO console the stomach"
and TO tatc II gently 50 preparing it for The
nutritious and solid parts Of The dinner. In the
urca the preparation Of FISH We observe one slip.
The author deprecates the OF garlic navoring
in one passage, and recommends II III another. lie
is right in the second instance than in The
FIRST probably lar he elsewhere remark, garlic
is noble flavor" though OF course, from its fllnc,s
peculiarly liable 10 abuse. There /. hne di,crim-
nation and evidence OF wide experience the chap
iers Relish and Seasoning Concerning the
Dressings Of salads" and About sauces
What he has 10 say concerning entrees l. well
worth reading. IL may be thought exclusive. mas
much the principles advocated would virtually Danish
sdedisAes from all but the tables Of milonaircs. if
carried out originally. Yet il - IN the interest Of
the higher eating NAV term It. tina, the
great difficulty Of scientific and sauces should
be du, insisted upon. and that the bancul practice
VI shaUis, substitutes and make believe. commonly
emplOs ed in this kind Of cookery should he
dealt with. In treating Of tea coffee We Do not
feel quite 50 sure that Mr.. Child is entirely safe
guide. In France amazing never praciised a.
art. the beverage popular there For coffee
author gives Turkish recipe after Trclawncy
Ryron's friend a much better was published in
Palgrave's Central Arabia some years ago. II j.
encountered by such fanciful and Objectionable
tricks a. stirring the coffee with cinnamon
which, if 1t has any effect whatever. certainly tend
to spoil the flavor of the infusion. Mr. Chd's two
chapters The Dining room and it's Decoration"
and on Dining Tables will be found full Of suggcs-
Hons for he Indicates one or two
quite daring Innovations such the rcvcrsion
ancient fashion of seating The guests side OF the
table only and the introduction Of ccccntrcaly shaped
tables of which he gives curious Illustration from an
old book the subject Many OF his conclusions,
based upon large experience. as, for instance the
oountenaneing of many varieties Of wine at dinner
Will be approved by veteran diners out. The custom
,l,,u Slv ends In defe he Of t,.