The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1890-11-20
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EUROPE.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EUROPE.
The Vatican, Sistene Chapel Library and
Mss.-The Old Capltol-T The Seven Hill
The Gardens-The Tibers WaIls-The
Roman Fountains-Roman Fever and
Crooked streets-MonkIsh Cemetery
From Rome 60 Napies-The Landmarks
vesuvius-Bay of NapIes-stree's and
Public Works-The Road to Vesuvlus,& &C
Especial Correspondence Of the BGnner.l
NUMBER VIII.
At the right hand side as st. Peters is
entered. stands the immense and very
irregular pile of buildings known as the
"Vaticann the official residence of the
Pope, and said to contain 1900 rooms.
The main entrance is by very long
stairway, with an arched ceiling sloping
far up into the building. Near the top
of this is the famous "Sistine" chapel,
where the Pope has services during
"HOly Week" II is quite large, with an
extremely high ceiling; walls and ceiling
have been decorated with frescoes by
skillful and noted men, the one of great
est note being the LAST Judgment by
NJ. Angelo, painted on the wall at one
end. was very much disappointed in
this place, for the frescqes, originally
very fine, have been badly damaged by
the smoke of the incense, and by damp
ness, while to see those on the lofty cell
ing, unless one wishes to dislocate his
neck, he must lie fiat ON his back on a
bench. Leaving the chapel we passed
through a series of rooms filed with
paintings by Raphael and his pupils,
among them the TRANSPORTATION" and
the Madonna del Foligno," while nu-
merous corridors and rooms are lined
with fine statuary, among which are
those so well known, the "LaOcoon," the
"Apollo Belvidere," the "Venus," and
the wonderful "Biga," reproduction in
marble of Roman chariot, drawn by
horses of life size. The Pope's apart
ments are in wing by themselves, and
are said to be very plainly furnished, the
curtains were tightly closed so nothing
could be seen of them; they face an in
terror court which is on level with the
second story of the buildings, across this
the Pope passes to reach his private en-
trance to st. Peters. The manuscripts
and books composing the famous Vati-
can library, priceless collection, are
kept in low cases lining both sides of a
broad corridor quarter of mile long,
the books occupy the central part. All
about the Vatican are seen the Papal
Zouaves wearing their hideous uniforms,
which are composed of three-inch stripes
alternately red, yellow and black, run
ming the whole length any thing uglier
OF more zebra-like could not be imagined.
Before Rome became the capital of Italy,
all the soldiers in the city wore this uni
form, now it is seen only in the Vatican,
the army uniform has taken its place.
The Capitol is very old building, but
still in use: it stands on the line between
old and new Rome. The central part of
the building is used for governmental
purposes, large wing being devoted to
the splendid collection of statues and an
tique marbles, here are the celebrated
statues known as the "Fawn of Praxi-
tiles" and the "Dying Gladiator" The
story Of the marble Fawn" originated
in the former In three of the private
palaces of Rome, are fine collections of
paintings, the "Corsini," the Barber
ini," where is the very widely copied
Beatrice Cenci," whose wonderfully
sad expression shall never forget, no
copy has ever given any idea of the orig
inal besides Titian's "Slave" and
Raphaers "Fornarina," and in the "ROs-
piglioso" is the wonderful aurora" by
Guido, painted on ceiling.
Rome is said to have been built on
seven hills, am confident there are at
least seventeen, hills in all directions,
like those in Albany, only not so high
nor quite so steep. The highest is the
one on which stands the Church of San
Pietro de Montorio, said to be built on
the spot where st. Peter was executed;
from this point is obtained splendid
view of the city, the surrounding hills,
and across the Campagna nearly to the
sea, with the Alban Mountains as back
ground.
Directly opposite is the next highest,
the Pincian Hill, where are the famous
gardens in which wandered all the IA
nous old Romans whose names are so
familiar to us; it was indeed classic
ground. 1t is very pleasant park with
nice grass, fine old trees, beds of flowers,
fountains, and the queerest clock ever
beheld, run by water; quite large af-
fair, about II feet high, standing in the
middle of large basin, kept in motion
by jets of water playing alternately on
two wooden arms thus producing the
same effect as the swing of pendulum.
From the broad terrace another fine view
of the city is obtained, and the "Appian
Way" far out toward the sea. Back of
and partly surrounding the Pincian gar
den is an immense park full of great
trees and traversed by good roads: here
were many queer old sculptures and va
rious ruins, it it is called the "Borghese''
gardens after the ancient family of that
name, who built the great chateau still
standing there.
A great stone wall is building along both
r Al III. E,,.n Il
will make the river as handsome as the
Seine at Paris, and prevent it from flood
ing the city in the rainy season. All the
buildings on each side of the river close
to the water, have been torn down to
make room for the new embankments
these ruins spoil the beauty of all that
part of the city. No one knows when
the great work will be finished, twenty
millions of dollars have already
spent on the job, and Rome is bankrupt.
Many handsome bridges, some iron, some
stone, span the Tiber, and part of one
pier is yet left of the bridge of Horatius
made immortal by Macaulay's poem.
The greater part, if not all of the walls
of Rome are still standing, and | thought
as looked at them of the various armies
that had swarmed outside, from the an
cient barbarians down TO GarIbaldi and
his motley army.
The principal gate, the 'Popolo" span
ming the road to Florence, is just below
the Pihcian Terrace, and is quite an
elaborate structure. Outside this gate
for sivty-three years the English Church
held services, none but the Roman Cath
olic being allowed in Rome: when the
city was taken by Victor Emanuel, a
church was bnilt in the city; every one
is now free to worship as he chooses.
Scattered over the city are numerous
open places called piazzas, of various
sizes, one of the largest opens on the
"Corso" the principal street in Rome,
and has pavilion where a band plays
frequently in the evening, the people
strolling about or seated at cafe tables
taking refreshments.
While we were in Rome the people
were preparing for an election, and the
streets were thickly placarded with ap-
peals TO voters, very much after the
American style, and one evening while
listening TO the music in the square, me1
were passing around documents, one Of
which read when translated, "Romans