San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1890-07-14
DAILY LIGHT.

IMAM the morning rlQe from the |
Springs to Monterey, before the sun |
has got so fierce as to make motion a
burden and while the blue peaks of
the mountains are still seen through |
floating mist of gray and white, the |
clouds rising so gradually as if loathe |
to part the veil between earth and |
the solemn immutable calm above.
We pass through waving corn fields
and open spaces, where the meek |
eyed oxen toll under their primitive |
yoke, as little changed as though
time had stood still for q thousand
years. The fresh, cool air would
make an old man young, and our mo-
tive power, the mule, l must say,
seems a more business-like and prac-
teal creature than his San Antonio
brother; he does not seem to see vi
sions which impel him to leave the
track; he adheres to the narrow path
of duty and does not refuse to quick
en- his step when requested. Yester-
day a small party left here at an early
hour to take in the town. Arriving,
the first thing is to rest on the iron
seats along the plaza. The caste line
is strictly drawn, the aristOcratic class
never walking, except on the outside
promenades; the lower classes
are confined to the shades literally,
the far prettIer inner paths, bordered
with lofty trees, in the center of
which is an immense fountain, being
their allotted space. Democratic
America would doubtless proceed to
make a righteous howl over the rights
| of the populace, ETC., but this very
sensible division of the sheep and
| the goats is no doubt the reason why
kind Is said to be entirely unknown,
when the people of Monterey are
taking their evening recreation. We
never pass the confectionery without
| going in for lemonade or cream and
the reckless flow of Spanish as we
| give our orders makes the bewlldered
Aztec waiter SILVER. The cathedral,
| which Is the finest Of all the churches
In Monterey. though perhaps not
more interesting than the others, re-
sembies our San Fernando, except
| that it Is more elaborate in the mat
ter of affairs, carving and paintings.
If the devotees would not load down
the affairs with such rash as tawdry
| paper flowers, coarse cotton lace and
| other gaudy and hideous appendages
this ancient shrine would have a
more noble and sacred air. Along
the floors are the squares which open
to the receptacles of the dead.
The massive entrance doors are splen-
didly carved, the tower is being com.
pIeted and will be about 100 or more
feet high. We visited all the curios-
ity shops and bought few things in
onyx and featherwOrk. 1t is aston
ishing the great difference in price
OF them here and in San Antonio.
Articles they charge us two dollars
and more for at home can be bought
here at so or at most rs cents. Here
is the manufacture of the som brero in
all its embroidered glory of silver and
gold. They certainly are magnifi-
cent things, fit for the pope and
all the cardinals to wear. They
cost everywhere from $50 to $75, and
when Romeo takes his guitar
and with such hat.goes forth in all
his other national array, he doubtless
conquors as he sings. We now take
the cars for the garden district and
the Bishops palace. Going through
those arid, treeless, narrow streets,
who would believe the wealth of trop-
ical beauty behind those dingy walls
and prison bars. Here and there we
catch glimpse through the iron
gratings of neatly If not quite hand
somely furnished interiors, but ar
ranged in the stiffest, most, unhome-
like manner, and rarely in the day
time are the wooden doors inside the
bars open. All is as silent and sealed
as the grave. 1t is only at night
that Monterey opens her portals and
the women sit behind the |
bars, perhaps longing to be
free Americana.
The twelve feet stone walls only |
give tantalizing glimpse of groves
of shade trees and sometimes through |
an open gateway we see the court
yard with its fountain and flowers.
One beautiful garden has been fitted
up by q German with a pavilion for
dancing, and all sorts of drinks can
be had. 1t is luxuriant with fig,
orange, lemon, lime, pomegranate,
peach and avocado pear trees. ana
there is one long avenue of tall ba-
mana plants. The citadel on the hill,
from which fine view of the city is
20 be had was used as a mission, q
fortress in the days Of the Texas-Mex-
lean struggle; it is now known as the
Bishops Palace, but is occupied
only by few soldiers, and
the old cannons which
lie scattered over the grounds. This
old church, fast crum bling to decay,
has q famous history. In the days of
'46 it was captured by the Americans