Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1890-11-12
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
DINNER AND RECEPTION DREssEs-CoL-
LARS AND sLEEvEs-cH1LDREN's FASH
IONs-PAssEMENTERIE AND FUR.

DINNER AND RECEPTION DREssEs-CoL- |
LARS AND sLEEvEs-CH1LDREN's FASH
IONs-PAssEMENTERIE AND FUR.
[From our Female Fashion Reporter.l
Dinner and reception dresses now in
preparation, show a continued preference
for the princess back and are almost ex-
clusively Of two fabrics of which in the
above style, one composes the upper
garment and the other the skirt, elegant
passementeries and beaded or embroidered
mousseline de sole or lace coming in as ad
juncts. short basques are also in favor
and the fronts of co sages still display in
tricacies of draping, to which very large
buttons fancifully placed, occasionally af-
ford change. The Medici collar, how
ever, promises to displace all other corsage
adornments and whether on indoor or out
door garments, gains ascendancy every
day. 1t may reach from neck to waist 4; be
cut short off in half circle or within such
extremes, attain any desired length. On
OUT. DOOR GARMENTS
especially, the sleeves match, as for ex-
ample where dark blue cloth cloak is
finished bv sleeves and Medici collar of irri-
descent passementere over black velvet
Passementerie is also in great favor for
dress sleeves or sleeves and collar which are
made to order or shown in the shops ready
made. The effect is very stylish and a
plain material offset in this way, becomes
handsome. Sleeves have also become a
marked feature in dress and cloth or mate
lasse oloaks or jackets are extensively com
pleted by fur sleeves. Velvet sleeves on
cloth or matelasse cloaks are also very
popular yet not more so than for dresses
where even the tailor made often show sue
completion, nor need there be anyw her
else corresponding touch. Height on the
shoulders and fullness in various degrees
are prelude to increasing tightness below
the elbow, the newest sleeves being so
close as to require buttonipg as the hand
cannot pass through and this holds good
even in regard to outdoor garments
though far from being universal feature.
THE MEDICI COLLAR
on cloaks, coats or jackets will seriously
interfere with long boas and in their place
come very short ones of otter, with head
in front which is sometimes rendered costly
by diamond eyes. The Henri Deux ruching
about the neck is also popular rage. 1t
comes in cocks tail or ostrich feathers for
the street while for indoors, all manner of
pretty fancies in white or colored lisse or
net appear to tempt the buyer. Both the
round Henri Deux and the Medici collar are
generally becoming since small minority
only can afford to expose the throat to
critic N while it needs but the remem.
brance Of Old pictures to show the dressy
eject given by rich, faring collar.
School dresses are made of c=mel's hair
or tricot cloth or flannel, Scotch plaids being
also extremely popular and the favorite
style of making is plain, full skirt set to
plain waist by cord. The neck may be
shirred as also the full sleeves, but a
method in much vogue shows surplice
waist in which pretty contrasts may be
brought about by alternate folds of oppo.
site color. Better dresses are made of
cashmere or fine cloth in much the same
contour, but belts, rosettes, Jokes or cuffs
of black velvet may be com bined with much
jauntiness, still handsomer dresses for
dancing school or evening being made of
India silk united with velvet or velvereen,
and pretty styles show a Spanish jacket
front trimmed with metal and opening over
blouse front of India silk on cashmere or
crepe de chine en- India silk. A genuine
sensation is created among fashionable
retail merchants and. stylish shoppers as
well, by the recent opening of Deutsch &
Co.'S exquisite establishment at Fifth Ave.
and Tweoty-Seocnd st. 1t is a study in
elegant private parlor than a place of bust.
ness and SO far exceeding anything hitherto
attempted that strangers would do well to
pay visit Of curiosity. Delightful crea.
lions in children's suits and cosks are a
continual source of admiration and are
worthy the designer whose garments from
his wholesale house lower down Broadway
have hither been put upon the market By
retail dealers as importatiops. Ladies tea
gowns are equally original and artistic,
giving greater opportunity for combinations
or rare fabric and garniture.
PAssEMENTERIE
has never been so freely used as at present
and from superb examples eight or ten
inches wide to others not more than one
inch across, they appear on either wool,
silk or velvet. Some are thickly eserusted
with jet or crystal while equally handsome
ones are entirely of silk aud resemble en-
broideries in lovely floral patterns and con.
trasts of color. Gilt, however, is by far
the most popular and is employed rot on
dresses alone but in millinery with an un-
heard of laYishness, even cloaks, capes and
jackets coming in for no small share. Even
ing bonnets and toques radiate gilt in con-
nection with pale colored yelvets where in
truth it is in very bad taste and Medici
collars and entire fronts are sold for dresses
Silver which promised rivalry has been
distanced, yet nevertheless is noticeable, as
likewise steel, but gilt at present quite
overshadows anything else and in the more
expensive varieties is of very fine workman
ship. a dinner dress just ordered by Mrs.
Cleveland is Of dark heliotrope Bengaline
combined with pale rose brocade and
trimmed with gilt passementerie, and
driving costume made for Mrs. Cornelius
Vanderbilt is OF dark tan cloth and velvet,
also trimmed with gilt. Bonnet to match
RAgAIINn NAV