The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1890-12-13

l also a fine view Of the Circassian range of
mountains on the way.
Our trip by rail from Batoum to Tifis,
227 miles, was very interesting AT one
point in crossing the mountain we had for
eight miles to ascend grade of one foot
in D. There is no other grade so heavy
in use without the aid of cable or cog
wheels that [ know of, except it be in
Mexico and Peru. The engines, the first
of the kind I had ever seen, had double
fire boxes in the centre, the one fireman
feeding both, with petroleum as fuel.
There were two smokestacks, one on each
end Practically they were two locomotives
joined, worked by one crew. 1t took two
such locomotives to force our train of six
passenger cars up this grade. A tunnel
has been built, and will be in service in
few months to avoid it.
ACROSS THE CAUCASUS.
Tihis, for over 1900 years the capital
of the Caucasusis, beautifully situated and
the head centre or resort Of the various
tribes in the surrounding country, who
attract considerable attention by their pic
turesque costumes, now gradually being
set aside This place was also noted as a
market for the sale of the beautiful Geor-
gian and Circassian women. Nearly every
one you meet here looks like walking or
mounted arsenal, judging from the numer-
GUS swords, daggers, pistols and the like
they carry about them, and nearly every
other man you meet is a military officer of
some grade. Even the school master goes
armed-a sad commentary on the boasted
civilization of the nineteenth century.
After waiting here for nearly week
for settled weather, we finally started by
carriage on our trip across the Caucasus
and through the famous "Dariel' Gorge
(the ancient Porte Caucasie) POI versts,
or 1873 English miles, to Xladicaucas, a
trip of from two to two and half days
You can 90 through by post cheaper, and
fairly comfortable, but you do so without
stopping, except to change horses, and fail
to see some of the fine scenery. We did
so by landau, or private carriage, furnished
at short notice by the Post-office Depart
ment, and at fixed rates. Charges, ,includ
ing use of carriage, the necessary horses
and drivers to get you through, and includ-
ing Government tax and toll, is nearly 67
roubles; which, at the present rate of
exchange, is a little over $40, rather a
reasonable price, j thought. Drivers and
horses are changed at each post station,
which are from IA to p versts apart.
The carriage, of course, you take through
with you. About 200 horses are kept at
each station, and about $50 vehicles of
various kinds are in use by the department.
You can be furnished at an hours notice
very good outfit, prices graded according
to the number of horses required aad
character of vehicle As the travel is
heavy both ways, principally by military
officers on business and pleasure, as well
as strings of heavy teams hauling goods,
you must look sharp for a clear road and
also after your changes of horses, or you
will get left at the post station. Most of
them are not very desirable places to stop
at. Each of them is built on uniform
plan, have but one reception room for
ladies and one for men, and but one extra
or private sleeping room.
We were delayed an extra three-quarters
of a day, including one night, by reason of
our being sandwiched between two Govern
ment Department Ministers, one going each
way, and both attended by a numerous
suite, and making acquisitions ahead for
nearly all of the horses, the post following
and capturing the balance. The officer in
charge was obdurate; we could not get our
relay until the others were first served. So,
if you ever come this way, you must look
out for Department Ministers, especially if
they be on wheels. Hotels outside of St.
Petersburg and Moscow furnish no bed
clothing, and if towels, sheets or pillow
cases are wanted, each form an extra charge.
MAGNIFICENT SCENERY.
Our trip across the Caucasus was about
the finest of the kind we have as yet taken.
We have crossed nearly all of the Swiss
passes as well as those of New Zealand, and
others elsewhere, but for complete Arctic
scenery on and about the pass and for
rugged and wild scenery and the exciting
ride through the winding and unusually
narrow gorge, to our mind, it stands first.
Top of pass is 1877 feet above the ocean,
and as far as you can see is one vast will
derness of snow and ice; to see the noun
tains towering grandly above you and
glistening in the sun, you cannot help but
experience feeling as if you were far
removed from any living creature and that
you were in the regions of eternal snow
and ice.
Our descent to the next, or Kobe Sta
tion, was rapid. There it was where We
met the delay spoken of. From Kobe by
an easier grade we reached Kasbek Station.
Here we had splendid view of Mt.
Kasbek, 1856 feet hi 5h, and but seven
versts away Here also the Darrell gorge
begins, and is about 80 versts, of $500 feet
each, in length. Here also in nine English
miles, we descended 5000 feet, in little
over an hour, over good and winding
road, cut into the sides of the numerous
and overhanging cliffs, running race, as
it were, With the turbulent and rapid stream
in its narrow bed below. We were SO
much pleased with the trip we would have
gone back over the pass were it not for the
danger of being delayed.
Ihe ROAD Is Wen guarued throughout Dy
mounted Cossacks, who are splendid look
ing fellows and magnificent horsemen. l
forgot to note, when nearly through, we
almost came to grief in a very narrow place
by meeting runaway post, who, like us,
with four horses abreast, was sweeping the
road. Their powerful and daring driver,
seeing that collision was unavoidable if
they were not stopped, forced his horses
over pile of broken stone, wrecking his
wagon aud disabling his stock. thought
in the general break up he was killed, but
he soon scrambled out, commanded us to
go on and then commenced to view the
ruins, as if studying where to commence
irst The attendant guard, Cossack,