New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1890-05-12
,yrox /. STAFF CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRIeUSR.l
\ MEXICAN SHIPPING


AMERICAN SHIPPING.
,yRoMA STAFF CORRESPONDENT or THE rRisCNSl
Iouioue February IA.
A high, angry surf beats against 'he rocky
shore on which this singular town IS ouil''
There is no larbor - only al open
unprotected roadsead where ancnor"se
would be DANGEROUS if the Pacific were not the
calmest and most trustworthy OF seas. Inc
boatmen in landing passengers from steamers
follow crcuitou passage between iedees oil
rock over which tic surf PUSHES win tremendous
forcc Fortunat. is the traveller who passes
through the bIe,Sers without a shower bath:
bu, .vcn with cat and hat copiously sprinkcd
with salt water he is thankful TO have escaped
tho inserting of the boat, which has seemed inn
ninent. at the most dangerous point. The back
ground for thee lines of foaming breakers is
series of barrC hillsides bordercd by a desert.
Struggling alolg the curves of the shore rows
of low frarneaouses. drinking-saloons and shops,
separated by broad streets. Where the sandy
level is widest, at the base of the slopng tanks
of the coast angc. the streets mutt piled until
homes are provided for population of 10000.
with an additional 5000 in the suburbs of the
district luoue, with its unnatural surround
ings and the striking disadvantages of its
wrctched larbor. is the largest and most flourish
ing coast,own between Valparaiso and Callao.
Nature las dried up the sources of life and
vcrdurc its sterile hillsdes and scattered frag-
ments If ancient sea-wall in its roadstcad.
Nature has also stored in the deserts treasures
which ne apparently inexhausthe.
Near the landing ! met DIR. j. w. Merriam,
who has been on the West Coast since 1870 and
United States Consul for many years. AS
glanced at his strongly marked. genial face and
lstene' to his hearty words of greeting to a fell
low-Anercan. feeling of sympathy, almost of
pity and commiseration, inspired by the dismal
surroundings of his lot, involuntarily found ut
teranc. But man this coast STANDS in less
need If coincidence than the veteran Consul is
in more contented state of mind. "lquique
is fnc, growing town" he said. and the eli
mate is perfect" ! effusvcly admitted in an
apolCgctc tone. that the climate remarkably
dry equabc and invigOrating; but not the
lack of rain and the utter absence of vegetation
somewhat depressing? Well these were draw
backs; he had hardly ever seen dash OF rain in
the course Of twenty years but il of the
. mos healthy towns on the coast and always
felt well in it, There were no sharp facilitating
changes of temperature. such as were experienced
in the States. Al this point DR.. Merriam di-
rcdcd sympathetic glance at his ,rnerican
guest who was doomed TO endure the uncertain
tits Of the New-Yorb climate. There were no
midsummer heats, and there was nothing that
could be described as winter wcafnc1-no real
approach 10 the frost-line. As for vegetation
1quique not utterly without it, There were
pleasant suburbs which one could easily reach
By strect-cars-trams every one calls them in
South America-where there were charming
"greeneries. But I am told that YOU have
no water here I rcioincd. Yes they had
oIe
down by boat from africa 1t was expensive
three cents gallon: but il was not bad water
and 1t was always pure. Supplies were obtained
regularly from watcr-carricrs. who filed up the
barrels in the yard. They had to he careful i'm
using it. so as 10 avoid unnecessary waste but
they got along very well. Iquiquc was not a
duh place in which 10 live One had good
neighbors and business opportunities We're en-
ccIlent; and in the evening the band generally
played on the plaza, anu one could sit in re-
uIemcht on the h1use-roof and enjoy the music
Inc genial Consul, IN order TO convince NE that
the lines had fallen unto him in pleasant places.
conducted me 10 NE plaza, where curious Pc
ruvian monument had been converted into q
pedestal Tor bus of Arturo Prat, hero of the
sea fight which to'k place off Iquiquc. and was
decisive of the fortunes of the war There were
few flower beds and shrubs around the ,nonu- |
PRIDE Fronting Of the plaza was his own house.
a large square structure freshly painted. with n
railing across the front of the roof and seats |
available for the OHn-air concerts Within wer,
handsome parlors nd wide hall, and evidences
of American taste and habits of living From his
house the Consul Ook for a turn about the
town. showing me 'ome Of the best shops, and en-
aiming me TO get a glimpse Of the vicuna and
alpaca rugs and carriage robes which are brought
down from Bovh for sale here. The wild
vicuna is one of tie Characteristic animals Of the
Sierras, having a snort curly wool finer and more
silky than that eiler Of the llama or Of the alpaca
II frequents the Highest patches Of grass 10 be-
found on the slops of the Andes. often grazing |
on the edges of smw-drfts. The head and back !
are usually rcddsh-yellow in color but the |
fecces which are used by Bovians for these rugs !
and robes are Of light Ochrc and white. and are |
taken from the kes and breast. The alpaca |
lcecps either white black, the latter heinz
used as border fer vicuna centre. When our |
stroll had ended d. Merriam put me on a car IN |
the direction of he charming grccncries1 Of |
which he had spoken. In half an hour was al |
a small seaside resort where there were several |
restaurants with inner courts, filled with gcrani-
ums, ferns. smilax roses, carnations and other
flowers. carefully potted and industriously
"atcrcd. II seems almost pathetic--a population
Ci 10000 with Only these few patches Of arti-
hcial vegetation Z. remind them on Sunday or
holiday excursions IF the beautiful world of vegc.
'a'ion so hvishly displayed in other climcs but
never seen on this rainlcss coast
E.RTHoTAKE vIsITATIONS.
ne subject Of earthquakes did not venture
10 pfodch in Dr. Ahrram's presence. but another
american. who has resided here for thirty years.
'o'd Inc That he lad seen the town twice de
eu"9ed. On August 10. 1868. occurred the ter
iipie earthquake Which overturned the Cathedral
o' AIeqnlpa, and kvellcd large part of that
Guy Almost simultaneously great waves surged
over AREA and lqu,ue and destroyed both towns
On Nay y, 1871, tie same ports with others on
inc coast were overwhelmed with similar waves