The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1890-10-19
MID-AUTUMN FASHION
New Gowns and Bonnets on the
Streets Of New York.
MRS. kENDAL's PRETTYDREssEs.

Gentlemen Are wearing Less Jewslry-
New Styles in Handerchisfs-Ths But
tsr-Ladle Hat and Other whims.
New YoRK. Oct la-[Copyrighted, 1890.
New gowns. new bonnets, and one might
almost add new faces-for many are 50
bronxed by the summers outing -are be-
ginning to strew our avenue and thorough
fares
Thick = aasumnal lesves that strsw the
brooks
In vallombroea,"
and again it seems as il It had never been
before, when autumn suggests warmth of
color and richness of tone. In ill that is
new there is . decided touch of French
grace and originality, and yet it is claimed
that American women are not half IS keen
about French fashions as formerly, that
they are growing more English in their
dress every year. However. to dress well it
Is necessary to ssfeel the pulse of fashion,"
which means to know what French people
are making and selling and wearing. I'M
doubtedly the aorta of the whole arterial
system of fashion is located at Paris, and
every pulse throb is felt throughout the
universe
To b fully convinced of this fact, one
need only 70 pass behind the scenes Of any
OF our large importing houses and inspect
the novelties from the leading Paris de-
signers, and which can be designated by
nothing less exalted than creations"
Exploration is carried out most extern
sively in tea,e0wns or house-gowns. which
are becoming more popular every day.
They are so graceful and hide so many de-
ficiencies. One beautiful example among
few fresh things that have just arrived. II
q tea-gown rich as regards materials. but
quite simple in shape. It is in old rose
bengaline, and the front displays pretty
drapery of creamy lace gathered into
pointed band of gold embroidery at the
waist. The bodice in front is fashioned af-
ter the manner Of the zouave.
The xouave. like the poor. We have al
ways with US; but it is so jaunty and be-
coming that it is difficult to let 60 easily.
Another pretty house gown of Paris
make is illustrated. and is most artisticaliy
draped in pale pink lowered silk, with
crepe de chine front in Greek style, and
revers of plain silk of q slightly deeper
again evident in the wide open sleeves, Civ
ing such an easy, comfortable aspect to the
gown.
Our summer hats have played many
parts. and their tumbled appearance bears
testimony of the trying conditions of
mostly weather under which they have
performed their duties. Out of respect to
their departed freshness. we relegate them
to the oblivion of their boxes. and let retro
spection write the epitaph of their charms.
while the bent of our energies is turned
upon the newcomers.
One of the latest models in hats, which
We illustrate, is . shape that will be repro
duced in felt and velvet. for il is particu-
larly pretty and becoming. The crown of
fancy spotted velvet is pulled and draped,
then enclrcled by ribbon velvet, which,
brought to the front. forms an upright
bow. and from the back is brought down to
form strings. Snipes moi plumes are ar
ranged at the back.
The quaint little hats, which resemble an
inverted butter-ladle more than anything
else, are becoming more and more popu-
lar. They are generally covered smoothly
with velvet, edged with feather trimming,
and few birds or bunch of small tips
pose at the back. One little shape of bril-
liant red velvet is edged with black. and
upon the front brim is arranged design
in cut Jet, while jet dragon-fy nestles
among prince of Wales" tips at the back.
Another is made of velvet In the new
turquoise color, which is vivid and most
trying shade to the complexion in the day.
light However, it is charming for evening
wraps, and should ever be combined with
gold. A complete costume in this brilliant
turquoise blue was recently imported from
the house of Felix, Paris. One can always
recognize the Felix costume, for it is COM
plete with hat. muff and wrap to match.
This one of turquoise habit cloth was TRIM
med deliberately with gold braid, and bor-
dered with Kalinsky fur, which is golden
yellow. The hat was covered with yellow
dressed kid, with turquoise trimmings, and
the muf of kid was combined with the
cloth, very odd in shape. and delicately
perfumed with Italian orris powder. All
fancy muffs are perfumed nowadays, and
there is nothing more delicate for the pur-
pose than Italian orris, which is less op-
pressive than the flower sachets.
Among the list of charming gowns which
Mrs. kendall has brought over for her
American tour is an exquisite pretty day
dress in the new turquoise color. The ma
terial is crepe de cnine, and the skirt is
plain. save for fiounce around the hem.
A zouave OF gold and turquoise stones sets
off the bodice, and there are high, pulled
up sleeves.
A fitting accompaniment to the new and
dainty muffs are the SNOWY embroidered
mouchoirs of crepe lisse. They are in al
possible shades and are embroidered on
the edges in floral designs. like the one
illustrated. Strong contrasts q re the rule,
such as a border of purple pansies on a
nasturtium-pink center. heliotrope upon
pale green, mignonette on old rose, and
the like.
To look at the display of handkerchiefs
upon the shop counters and in the estab-
lishments where they are made and sold q
specialties. one is slow TO realize that q CEN
fury and a half ago certain royal families
possessed only two. There are also very
beautiful white linen cambria handker-
chiefs. with borders wrought in coors; but
the elegant and thoroughly ganteel pocket
handkerchief is either lace bordered or
hand-embroidered in white.
1t would be hard to improve upon the
variety of exquisite materials already re-
ceived for evening gowns. Beaded net,
with broad stripes of velvet, is novelty
but jeweled nets will be the most favored
in the way of draperies tnis winter. Pretty
gowns for young ladies will be made of
voile in bright colors. with satin-striped
borders, such as we find on our gauze yeiis.
They will simply be made over slips of silk
to match in color. A giriish gown in white