Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1890-05-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
COMMENCEMENT GOWNS = wArsrcoArs

COMMENCEMENT GOWNS - wAIsTCoATs -
eLovEs-sH AND ANSWERS.
From cur Female Fashion Reporter.l
| The numerous white woods in market af-
ford unusual range for choice in commence
ment dresses and notable changes in
making require special comment. The
surplice dress or Academic gown as it is
also called, is the most remarkable innova-
| tion on old ideas and as the name would
imply, is a reproduction of the garb peculiar
to choristers, being worn over q full, plain
| skirt. The favorite trimming is Greek key
bordering in gils or silk and the same
garniture is used with particular appropri-
ateness in dresses Partaking more or less
of classic outlines. Given the foregoing,
and the Empire dress is almost an under
stood thing since It's simple contour falls IN
with prevalent thought, and it is moreover
the gown best adapted to youthful figures.
Belts and sashes are important accessories
and here as in costumes, buckles are en-
ployed to an extraordinary extent. They
were never so fashionable and come in sizes
ranging from eight to two inches and show
every manner of device in gilt, steel, enam-
ell or rhinestone to say nothing of precious
metal when it can be afforded. Imitation
of the men is not confined to Academic
gowns.
wAIsTCoATs
are markedly man-like and are put on in an
altogether manly way over shirt front to
which standing linen collar and tie give
completion. A jaunty little jacket is the
proper outside garment and in view of a
probable run on waisteoat5, there is a re-
markable variety in jackets which hitherto
of cloth IN black or stylish shades of tan,
castor, fawn or Swede, are low brought
out in white with black facings and large
gilt buttons or in pale colors such as deli
cate green, blue or terra Gotta with appro-
pirate contrasts in garniture. Brocade in
small designs or pique either white or COL
ored are the materials selected for waist
coats. As time goes on, the prominence of
draping about the corsage, becomes more
apparent. A delightful liberty has arisen
and entirely without rule or regard to prec-
edent, each dressmaker may consult her
own fancy in the winding of material about
the form. Fastenings are more than ever
obscure and even to practised eye, it may
become enigmatical as to how the waist of
a dress is put on or off. As may be
imagined, dress buttons are relegated to
obscurity, the few which appear being in
conspicuous.
GLOvEs-sHOEs.
Gloves are in tan or gray or occasionally |
match costumes and with the opening |
season, supply of silk and taffsta in the |
same cOlors are shown. Letters from Paris
say that two-button gloves are being worn,
but at present on this side, four buttons
are usual for street or morning wear
Shoes are in tan or gray to match gloves,
and often of undressed kid, but as many
persons will not adopt these styles, there |
are varieties in black with adornment of
buckles or beads. Sharp pointed toes pro- |
duce as much discomfort as ever, although |
of course there are broader shapes with |
lower heels for those who cannot or will |
not wear such narrow shapes. In answer
to enquiry, on the subject of reliable
dressing, the reply is strongly in favor of
Buttons Raven Gloss, because the finish it
gives is soft and natural while other dress
ipgs crack the leather and render it hard
Some dealers from interested motives, may
be inclined to substitute other dressings,
but the preservative qualities of Raven
Gloss should recommend it to all those
who have p just regard to the durability of
thar foot wear.
NOTES AND ANSWERS.
Some idea may be formed of the variety
in handkerchiefs, by description of group
of five lately seen on fashionable counter.
The first was of fine linen lawn with fancy
drawn work hem with floral embroidery in
white and gold colored silk floss the
second was of pink lawn with white en-
broidered edge; the third was all white
with broad hem and bestrewn with en-
broidered barrettes, large sprays on the
hem giving completion; the fourth was of
heiotrope silk null finished with applique
silk embroidery in a pattern of fern leaves
and vioets the fifth of white China silk
with crimson silk hem and adorned by
snow scene in etching.
A dress recently made for Mrs. Whitney,
is of tan cloth with embroidered border in
blue and tan silk and silver cord united
with dark blue velvet. Cloth composes the
back, full vest, puffs on sleeves ard panels
on the front of the skirt, the velvet forming
the foundation skirt, jacket fronts yoke,
collar and lower portion of the Sleeves
The jacket fronts, yoke and cuffs are en-
broidered with silver cord. Hat of chip to
match trimmed with blue and silver ribbon
and blue Ostrich tips
"Mrs. K" Vandyke embroideries are
exceedingly fashionable and iu ecru would |
be eminently suitable for an India silk
They are also largely used on ginghams |
and satnes and in either case may be com
bined with velvet ribbon. Ecru en-
DTOiuOTy is Win BLK TlUDUu
India silk and it can be added that where |
bows are worn, silk ribbon is preferable to |
velvet, because the latter is apt to twist |
into strings and therefore is best employed
in bands or panels. Lace hounces on silk |
are stylish and a dress lately worn by the |
Duchess of Marlborough, showed narrow |
trimming around the skirt of point desprit |
in the inevitable Vandyke points.
'.hIiss r" Cloth capes are rage and |
really the principal dependence where some
protection is required, since wraps are
chiefly of lace and ribbon, which though
very pretty, do not afford warmth. Besides,
they are quito expensive. Capes, however,
are far better adapted to slender figures
than the wei. developed, and the latter
class find it difficult this season to obtain
something suitable where purposes Of Utility
are the consideration.
Unique effects in millinery are brought
about by crowns of much darker and
heavier material than the brims. This is
especially true of shade hats where stylish
example shows a crown of black Milan with
faring brim of very thin fancy braid in
yellow. 4 high bow of black net ia placed
on the crown and the brim is garnitured by
half spray of bright pink roses and green
foliage, the other side displaying trim
ming of old rose ribbon and double-faced
velvet ribbon in a darker shade of the same
color.
RosALIND MAY.