Morning journal and courier., 1890-07-17
INUoNsIsTRNCIEs OF FASHION.
Some of the Season,s odd and Outrs
 Combinations.

some Of hhe SeabohSb ooa aae oesAN
 Combinations.
 I'M. R. Mckenzie in the New York Star-l
 Undoubtedly it is heresy to utter criti- cism concerning present prevailing styles of dress, so we'll and generally are they ap- proved, and in such a state of mental satis- faction are we at the results of recent re- search and modern invention in this relation.
 Yet, even at the risk of being ranked among
 that not oyerpleasant class, the hypercriti.
 cal, we must murmur 6 mild protest or sug-
 gestion now and then. With humblest
 apologies to the powers that be, then, has
 it dawned upon the vision and inward sense
 of any of the gay world that in our present
 styles we are becoming somewhat mixedf
 Had it been the fortune of those deep minds
 who have esrs that hear not and tongues that
 speak not, also to observe @ flaw or two in
 present modest Let us lay that hattering
 unction to our souls when we protest against
 mighty shoulders fanking sheath like bodies, cIinging gowns, a la fifteenth century cos tunes, with sleeves bouffant after the Aedi- cis fashion of a century later twhen full spreading ekirts and long, sharp waists were worn with them), made of material striped as it was the rage to stripe dress fabrics dur ing the French revolution, when they were worn along with faced revers and other et- ceteras, in imitation of the members of the convention.
 "Comparisons are odious" in many in- stances, no doubt, but notwithstanding this fact, who has seen the latest black net gown perambulatipg fashion's thoroughfares, sans the faintsst semblance of tornure or panier, sans hips, in short, "sans everything" (to vary flat outline), but bumped shouldersf Who has not experienced dawning sense | that something was amissi Alas, at the risk | of offending sensitive and artistic ears and | eyes cannot forbsar giving expression to a | woful similituds which some of these poker | like figures suggest. A stove pipe at no | time has been ranked among the articles ss- | thetic, and surely a couple of urn handles | attached to it cannot detract from the fact | that it remains a stove pipe just the same.
 Ah, when will we practically realize the | universal application of the homely sIying | tha. "whst is one mans food is another mans poisont The form of Hebe, or of 6
 Madame Rscamier treading parqueted halls
 in sandals and sweeping trains must have been. and still may be, sight delectable, but some of the butter tub dowsgers and
 lank demoiselles, which many of cisiliza' | tion's offspring appear, really need to bi hauled in and looked after & little by thi sensible, modern dressmaker. Even Mad
 anne Rscamier without that aoaty bit of Hoo
 drapery and in stout pair of common
 sense boots would not excite much fatterinl
 regard were shs to be seen bobbing dowl
 Fifth avenue or Broadway after the presen
 democratic style of locomotion. which cer
 tainly is devoid of that majesty of miei | adopted by the ladies of the first empire
 | repeat it: What may be quite comme il fau | ordained by the woman of fashion and taste
 becomes ultra hideous when attempted b
 the mere imitator. The woman of taste am
 the first class modiste will modify aud adop
 | various innovations to the peculisrities of
 figure. The great trouble lies in the fac
 that the average woman with the lates , "wrinkle" in her head says to her dressma
 ker, ooh, you mustn't mind about any fun
 below and fuss. They don't wear hustle now, thank heaven, and like my dress lu; } straight and plain, you knoT." So, th ' poor gownfitter, knowing that the perso , who tries to please every body must be fsi ure, resigns herself to this gown being ss specimen of mixed ante date modes an D modern gonius, coupled with a strong smac , | of two year old fashion plate tones. Such 8 customer never reflects any credit upon h' = mantusmaker, and the latter, therefore, ne' t CT takes any too great pains to add addition d | al luster to the neither one thing nor Il e other sort of garment thus manufacture e Now, to balance broad shoulders, some ful k uess should be added to the thin figure b 1t low the indentation of the waist, and, pa ,- ticularly for outdoor wear, should the ski 1T be made extra full either in the ba !. breadths or ail around. Then the shape of IT woman's back is something not sufficient 10 considered in the fitting and draping a- gowns. There are backs whose hollow is h marked as to require little acesntuatic ,e But many whose vertebr@ seems of su of straight aud unyieldiug character as to re 10 der even a hustle thing of beauty. E ,e the broad, flat back but little can be dor Il. | save to so gather and adjust the plaitings ar the skirt so that they form sharp, comp ye apex just below the middle waist sea to These plaitipgs ehould diverge towards a- hem of the skirt, and the gown be dra, a. very smoothly and compactly over the hil 10 As to this question of the gigot sleeve, a. director of fine arts, writing in France in 1877 concerning changes of fashions, sa, a. 1.-The shoulders were enlarged by leg of ml ,d ton sleeves, and since the scanty dress of pd Restoration would have been ridiculous vi lv SO great development of the shoulders a be headdress, the hoops and puffed skirts VI
 revived. A fashion which was ordained . n. der the reign of Louis Philippe shows lal ,l- sleeves, with very large, full, loose pu u- reaching to a point just below the elbo m when to the wrist the sleeve fits closely. l m waist of the gown is moderately short, ant bt very full skirt is gathered to the belt. I "a expensive style of skirt hsrmonizes with | ,s style of sleevs. What was few years sil mt QoQOmlQdtcu biluhtucco, 10 boH cty IT. oclingipg." Particularly Is this cling In tendency noticeable in the summer seas r- which offers SO many cheap fabrics O at Himsy character, and when properly adsp ly to the figure they are not so bad. But in h. fifteenth century costumes which have b ,p- handed down to us we see no break at ,os waist, gave it be in some instances a gir is or the suggestion of one. As e rule, ,se most queenly and simple are made in 3D. piece from shoulder to hem. The gs yi- curves in few inches about the pres as swaist n then gradually falls away into n lsn expansive folds about the feet. Nor is .es al all tight-it simply curves in, then ted again, and the weight of the drspery, tl he ing upon the ground, draws the mat led; gracefully from the waist at the back.
 hat sleeves are close and plain, the skirt C l be sionally varied in it's plsinness by b ,an. caught up at one side. This style of 6 and la charming tor certain indoor ocossions