, 1890-03-12
THE sTovEPIPE HAT.
Something About the High silk Hat-ns
History and How 1t Is Made.

history khu now 1t Is Made.
The high silk hat-the plug, the
stovepipe, call it what you willis a
comparatively modern institution,
About sixty years g the silk tile was
introduced into England from Flor,
ence. Since then the stovepipe has
undergone many strange transforma
tons.
The early silk hat was a rough af.
fair. 1t was so heavy that the Eng
lish' dudes of that time complained
that lit was like carrying a busheI
basket" Besides it was clumsy and
hard to handle. 1t did not have the
II tapering crown which adds to its
plcturesqueness, nor did it have the
Symmetrical curling brim. Comtam
Porary pictures and cartoons in Lon
don Punch give one a fair idea of the
styles then in vogue. Thus, the cock.
ney sported one kind of Il high hat;
the turfnian another kind; the gentle,
man another; while the dons and un-
dergrdduates Of Oxford and Cambridge
had their peculiar style.
Then. again, there has been quite a
change OF opinion in regard to the
wearing Of silk hats. Some years ago
the young man that wore IA silk hat
was a marked individual. His stove
pipe became the butt of wit and ridi-
Guile even among his friends, and the
targcto OF the small boy. For a change
OF sentiment about the silk hat almost
everything is due To the manufacturer
who has made the tile a thing of
beauty and IA JOY forever. Recently
we had talk with n prominent Broad
way manufacturer on the subject.
Yes, said he, there have been
great improvements in the methods of
making silk hats. Now, what do you
suppose the body of this one is made
Off at the same time holding up a
glossy silk tile. We admitted our ina
bility to answer the question.
calico"
"Calicol"
YES. You see, there are two kinds
Of silk hats-light and heavy weight.
Most of the bodies Of the heavy hats
are made of felt"
How is the silk put oni"
"The body of the calico or felt is
first dipped into hot water and then
stretched on n block. After drying
the body is stiifened with a solution Of
gum shellac and alcohol, and after.
ward with n solution Of varnish to
prevent 1t striking through TO the sur
face. a cover of fine silk plush is then
cut and sewed to fit exactly the body.
When the silk covering is accurately
fitted ii is smoothed over with a hot
iron. The heat striking into the glue
~dlssolves 1t and in drying connects the
silk plush with the body. This ex-
plains why u severe wetting ruins a
silk hat.
The hat is then placed on a revolv-
ing. cylinder, where it is polished
with soft cloths. This process of
dressing and polishing is known as
'veluring. The glossy appearance
comes from the application of hair
cloths and velvet 'velures' to the nap
of the silk
What kind of plush do you use7"
The best silk plush is imported
from fiaiica. 1t usually comes in
three lfrceS fer the tip. crown and
brlnI tii" skill consists in knowing
how l. pat L." silk plush on SO that
the >y;rI VIII b. invisible TO the eve.
Down ,In.:g til" sides of the crown the
edges Of tl!r silk covering are allowed
TO lap over They are then pressed
together by a hot iron and finished
perfectly smooth by means of revolv
ing brushes.
After a hat is finished as to the
crown and brim. it is lined with
watered or embossed paper, and a
strip of enaineled leather is sewed
around the Inside edge. Then it is
bound and banded. Lastly, the com
pleted hat is wrapped in tissue paper
and put into a box for the retailer.h-
New York Press.