davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
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sixteen. The hair Is confined closely to the
head in reticulated caul, most exquisitelv or
namented with gold and pearls; this is sur
mounted by a velvethat bound with gold cord
and decked with an ostrich plume. whose stem
Is richly laden with pearls-the ruff about the
neck contrasts greatly with those worn by the
ultra fashionable ladies of that time. The
whole costume is very effective. the happy
mean between the extremes of fashion has been
preserved and the result shows what NAV be
accomplished by one who knows how to dress.
But Queen Mary the exceptiOn-the rule
was quite the other way. AMI gave fair cause
for criticism. The author of The Anatomie
OF Abuses" Is justly indignant at the
painting of ladies' faces. which now be-
came usual. After some pages of argument
he speaks of their hair which of force must
be curled. frisled and crisped. and, lest it
should fall down, is underprOpped with forks
wires. and cannot tell what: rather like stern
monsters than chaste Christian matrons. At
their hair. thus wreathed and crested, are
hanged bugles. ouches. rings. gold. silver,
glasses, and such other childish gewgaws."
Bad as all this is declared to be. he expresses
his utter horror at the still worse custom of
wearing false hair aud dyenS it ''of what color
they list" The indignation of the writer alb
solutely boils over when he speaks of the great
ruffs worn by the ladies. and 1.-THE d,riES liquor.
mean Stdrcte." with which they sliffen these
.pillars of pride" and beyond all this they
have further fetch, namely. three
grdldt,un beneath another. aud all
under the nlnister derd ruttt! each of them
pleated and crested full curiously. God wot.
Then last of all they are either clogged with
gold. silver, or silk lace of stately price.
wrought all over with needle wOrke, speckled
and sparkeled here and there with the sunne,
income and STAIRS, and many other antiques
strange to behold Some are wrought with
open work down to the midst of the ruffe and
further. some with close work. some with
purled lace, SO closed. and other gewgaws. so
fastened, as the ruffe is the least part of
itself"
In those days. when umbrellas or covered
conyeyances were unknown, much did it de-
light these saints to see the ladies caught in a
shower, for then did their great rUffes Sti7ke
sdyLe and hutter like dishe ciOutes about the
neckes of the poor drowned RATES" they SO re-
hglously detested This accident was some
times prevented by the Use of .'supportasses'
or underprops of wire covered by gold thread,
silver or silk, which held out the pl,tlts of the
ruff, as is shown in a Datch engraving of that
time, where the lady's high head dress with
bow and feather just peeps above its grand cir
conference.
1t is worthy Of note that the starch or devils
liquor" was IN those days cclored, so as to give
the ruff any tint that might be desired. 1t was
in the reign of Elizabeth that the ostrich
plume and other feathers were first worn by
the ladies. but as they were very rare and
costly they were not often seen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
3f elRo or PaRAo,s

Persons who are skeptical on many subjects
OF costume and who doubt the accuracy of the
old illuminators and sculptors in their repre-
sensations Of the female head dress of their
own times should consider whether any fashion
more ugly or disgusting can be found than this
III vogue so recently as when Victoria's grand
father, George III, was king Stuart's book.
mentioned above, is the most singular mixture
of moral reflections on life and religion, actors
and acting. nature and art, that can be imag-
med, combined with the most careful of all
directions to the young hair dresser on decorum
and the immense responsibility of his profess
sion Only think of tyro being told lone
thing is particularly necessary, that you should
be under no embarrassment but be possessed
OF a considerable share of easy, silent deter
mination." Ii must to a beginner have been
an appalling thing-the amount of ''silent de-
termination" required to form the amazing
structure a lady's head generally presented.
Another variation of the big-head is
swelled all around like a pumpkin and huge
curls aid in the caricature. As IL this was not
load enough for the fair shoulders it is swathed
with large veil or scarf, giving the wearer an
exceedingly top-heavy look.
The follies of the fashions are ridiculed in
the London Magazine of 1777 in these lines:
Give Chloe bushel Of horse hair and wool.
Ten yards OF gay ribbon to deck her sweet skull
And gauze TO encompass II round
Let her Gaps ny behind for yard at the least,
Let her curls meet just under her chin
with hundred instead Of one PIN"
The simple caps and bonnets of George
III were put to flight by these monstrous
heaps of tow and hat had to be invented To
cover so large an erection, two examples of
which are here given.
The figure representing lady with an i'm.
mense wig, covered by broad brim hat with
plated lace crown, above which wave two
ostrich plumes, is taken from a fashion plate NJ
that day. The other is copied from an en-
craving. The original is intended to represent
Mary Robinson. the first love of Prince. after
ward King George Nv. 1t can scarcely be
imagined that really lovely woman could 40
dishgure herself, yet an idea Of the absurdity
OF this fashion was never entertained by any-
body at that period. The lady is termed the
Bird Of Paradise" in the original engraving
| and the whole thing is meant as seriously as q
sermon Now that we have reached the pres
ent century will rest my pen and let a Drawer
than bring the record down 70 the present
time. CD
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

and Apollinaris and coffee. During the entire
dinner claret was served in place Of water in
goblets with ice. The ladies usually retired to
the parlors after coffee and the gentlemen re-
manned in the dining room to finish off and
smoke.
ARRANGING A STATE DINNER.
After the Official program of state dinners
has been prepared the President determines
who shall be the guests outside of those invited
as matter Of official recognition. The assist
ant private secretary then prepares the invita-
tions and sends thom out by messenger one
week in advance. These invitations must be
accepted or declined within three days at the
utmost limit. From the list thus made up the
private secretary arranges the seatings of the
guests. There are three forms of arrangement
OF the state dining table, and in accordance
The table for an ordinary state dinner is ar
ranged as follows:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

innate modesty, as those persons were not bit
less vain Of their lack of adornment than the
more worldly were of their finery.
with the return of the Stuarts came many
new shapes and styles. The elegant flow Of
ringlets, in which the beauties of the courts of
Charles / and Charlet ii luxuriated, was sue
ceeded by very high and heavy style. such as
may De seen In the picture of Queen Mary, the
daughter Of James III and wife Of William of
orange. In this the hair is drawn straight up
from the forehead and stfrmounted by rows of
lace and ribbons, a lace scarf being thrown
over all and hanging nearly to the waist.
vi The remarkable styles of head gear during
the reign OF Queen Anne the tower" more
properly called ''fontang." after Mile. Fon-
tang, who hrst introduced it at the court of
Louis AlF. was the most conspicuous. Rows
OF lace over the forehead shot upward one
over the other in succession of plaits, narrow
ing as they rise, while long streaming lappets
hang over the shoulders from the head, the
hair on which is combed upward as a sort of
support to the structure II is alluded to i'm a
song of the period printed in D'Urfey's "wit
and MIrth, entitled the Young Maids Por-
ton, and which in four lines gives good idea
of fashionable lady:
Ny high fontang. my damask gown.
My laced shoes of spanish leather,
silver Dodkln IN my crown,
And dainty plume of feather"
The caps worn at the close OF the reign of
George l and during the reign of George ii
formed quite contrast with their predeces-
sors and those that came Immediately after
them; they were small, graceful and generally
pretty, but sometimes mere patches of lace on
top of the head.
Never in the history of the world was any
thing more absurd in the way of head dress
worn by man. woman or beast than the FASH
ionable head gear of the ladies during the lat
ter part of the last century. In those days hair
dressers were great men; they had the ear of
princes, were successful lobbyists. and their
Influence" Gas the word is understood in
Washington was immense. They were great
men and wrote books upon their profession
laying claim to no small merit in 80 important
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
WALTER B. WILLIAMS 4 co
ia3-dEds Auctionee
BOWLING. Auctioneer.

EXTENSIVE SALE OF GROCERIES. COMPRISING
THE ENTIRE STOCK OF STORE No. .f2lS
BRIDGE COR NJ SIREET, NEAR CAR STABLES,
GEORGETOWN, DC,
On WEDNESDAY,, JANUARY EIGHTH, 1890 COM
mencing at TEN O'CLOCK AN, at store No 1921 4
Bridge Cor Nj street, Georgetown, DC, will sell,
without reserve, the entire stock such as
Teas in Cans Chests.
Ton Bbls sugar, Spices.
Fancy Shelf Goods Coffee.
Canned Goods, Preserves.
Washing and Toilet SOAPS
Starch, Blue Backing
Lard in Cans. Tubs and Bills
Flour in Sacks and so Bills
Cigars and Tobacco
Wood and Willow Ware.
Meats, Goldfish.
BblS. Vinegar and Molasses,
Brushes Matches.
Scales Coffee Mill, Desk &c
Dealers invited to attend The goods will be posi-
lively Sold and IN lots to suit the owner is retr-
ing from Business.
Terms Cash
THOMAS DOWNING,
Ja--uts AuctIoneer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
NEESHIISS2sN.y3

The President sits at No. 8 in the diagram
and his wife or presiding lady at No. 26 oppo-
site. The seat of honor for the first and second
ladies are on the Presidents right and left re-
spectively, and for gentlemen in the same posi-
ton on the right and left of the Presidents
lady. The remaining guests are seated alter
nately in the same order according to the ac-
cepted degrees of official precedence or rank,
but always if practicable with a gentleman as
the vis-a-vis of lady.
DIPLOMATIC GATHERING.
The state table for dinner to the diplomats
is laid in the following form:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
d2S-d&ds
RCsSIEEs SALE III OF p, EA LdI.lI REAL rs

fENRUSTEE'S SALE OF VALUABLE REAL ES-
Il TATE IN ALEXANDRIA COUNTY, Virginia
by virtue of a deed of trust from Mary Is. Hammer
anu John Ii. Hammer. dated the 18Th day of Septem
ber 1888 and recorded in lber j. No /. page AZ,
OF the land records for the county of Alexandria, Va
and al the request of the holder OF the secured
thereby viii sell at public auction, THURSDAY,
JANUARY SIXTEENTH. 1880, at ELEVEN O'CLOCK
in front Of the premises tine following property
IN Alexandria county. Virginia, near Balls Cross
Roads, To wit All that certain piece parcel Of land
and premises known and distinguished as being part
OF lot No. three CD in the division Of Robert Balls
estate set forth in plat and thereof made by
Oliver Cox October 1886 the said piece OF land being
the tract and lot No s. being line of the lana claimed
by james Birch on the north side OF the new George
town road, thence with the line of said entire tract
and James Birch n. IA degrees f.. - poles, to 81"
corner said tract aud James Birch: thence n. Is
degrees w. 40 poles Is LINKS to corner to the tract
and James Birch and adjoining the land of II. Ball;
thence west IL poles links to line of the tract
and the land of H. Ball TO lots and thence with the
line between said lots q degrees T.. poles to the
north sioe of the Georgetosn road IN said line:
thence along the north side OF said road in
erly direction the beginning containing eleven and
o half acres more or less.
The said piece OF land improved by fine Dwelling
and Out. uildngs and is in good condition for cult
walton.
Terms of sale: One-third cash and the residue
in two equal payments and two years from day
of sale the deferred payments TO bear interest from
day of sale and secured by deed of trust the prop
erty. deposit of $3.50 soon property is
knocked down will be required. AL conveyancIng at
the cost OF the purchaser
d26-dts WALTER HALL, Trustee.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
Neglectful Clarence.

From the Philadelphia Inquirer.
Miss Chestnut-'Have you and Clarence set
the day?"
Miss Walnut-"Mr. Callowhill and I are
strangers"
Miss C.-"Why-"
Miss W.-"We were on train. We went
through a tunnel. OF course I was frightened,
and chung to Mr.. Callowhill's arm and"
Miss C.-"Clarence didn't presumed"
Miss .W.-"No, Clarence did not presume"
Miss C.-"The mean thingb I don't blame
you, dear"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
BOWLING, Auctioneer.

EIGHT ROOM BRICK DWELLINGS, KNOWN
AS NOS. 1926 l62S ANDI ga SIXTH STREET
NORTHWEST; ALSO FOUR NEW SEVEN
AND EIGHT ROOM BRICK DWELLTNGs,
KNOWN As NOS 6l0. 6l2, GA AND 6lS
STREET NORTHWEST.
By virtue OF deed OF trust duly recorded in Liber
1882 folio 4S5 et seq. of the land records the
District Of Columbia, and at the request the holder
of the note secured thereby will sell at uic auction
Ill front of the premises ON WEDNESDAY, THE
EIGHTH DAY OF JANUARY, AID. 1890, A FOUR
O'CLOCK r. NJ, the following described real estate
situate in the city of Washington, District of Column
mbia, to wit: Sub Lots Nos. ls4, 1S7 and lSS, Ia
l16. Ia and as i'll SO. No. 444.
Terms easy and made known at time of sale A
deposit of 100 on each piece of property Will be
required OF the purchaser. III terms of sale
complied with III ten days from day of SALE the prop
erty viii be resold at risk and of detaulting pur
chaser. All conyeyancing ana recording at purchas-
er's cost
WASHINGTON DANENHOWER
W. IRVING BOSWELL.
doS-dEds Tr,,S.aas
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

FAST TRAINS TO New YoRK.-The Baltimore
and Ohio trains to Philadelphia and New York
are the fastest in the country. The equipment
is superior, the roadway excellent and the
service punctual No extra fares are charged
for fast time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
\ UcTIoN SALE OF DESIRABLE STORE AM

Y INIIUN SALE OF DESlKA BILE STORE AND
IARESiDENCE, BEING PREMISES No lO24
SEVENTH STREET NORTHWEST
On IHUksDAl, the NINTH DAY OF JANUARY
AID; 1870 al HALE-PASI FOUR O'CLOCK T. M We
shall offer for sale, public auction front of the
premises, parts OF Lots and o. in square 40 this
city, beginning at point the west line 9TH street
one inch north from the northeast corner OF lot n
and running thence south II feet 81 inches thence
west 80 feet, thence north . feet "a
thence enthusiastically to the On Of beginning the
Improvements thereon being newly built store and
residence with all modern improvements
Terms: One-third cash. balance in equal INSTALL
ments at one and two with per interest
secured by deed OF trust or cash at opton of mr.
chaser Conveyancing, &c, at purchasers cost. de
post of 500 Terms to be complied with in ten DAYS
otherwise right reserved resell at risk and cost OF
default purt haser after days public notice Of
such resale III some newspaper published Washing
ton. DC DUNCANSON BROS,
ia:i-dSds Aucfionears
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
III Nzs,aazn<
..z~~e Il <-~..s7<@~~>@-xsx
&..-L. y IT.,
-><-~~,e~-Z..--zxaZ
<~A~ ~ L@ ~
Z>..<-<X &[....G <

The Arthur dinners were greatly over-esti-
mated in quality. They were snowy affairs
with plenty OF wine. He had the club mans
idea Of feast. He began his feasts with
white wine with the oysters, followed with
sherry at the SOUP and another white wine with
the fish, and from the next course throughous
the dinner served champagne in unstinted
quantities to the end, tapering OF with cognsc
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
He Had q Family.

From the Portland Oregonian.
In making final proof before the United
States land Office Judge Guichard Of Walla
Walls usually asks: "Have you. a famllyT
Most of them answer in the affirmative but the
other day he got hold of man who had the
biggest family on record. "Hsve you a fam
ily?" said the judge, as he pulled down his vest.
"Yes, sir, said the man, somewhat confused.
"What does it consist OFF" continued Mr..
Guichard. SWELL" said the man, looking up
toward the ceiling, 80 as to refresh his mind
and give true account, "a wife and twelve
children, two married. a hired man, a gang
pillow, a seeder, Balm wagon and span Of
mules" That's enough" said the judge, with
q smile, and the settler got his final papers
without any further trouble.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
Written for The EVENING star
BONNETs OF BYGONE DAYS.
heads OF Fair Ones and How They
Have Been Decked

sHk INDUSTRIOUS srRUCTUREs OF HAIR WOMEN
OF THE LAST CENTURY ENDURED-HIsroRY
AND MILLINERY rSrERrwISED-MASY CHANCES
OF FASHION SINCE QUEEN ELIZABErH's REIGN.
The high head dress worn in the reign of the
spinister queen, Elizabeth, may be considered
the prototype of that enormity worn in the lat
Ter part of the eighteenth century.
Queen Elizabeth, depicted as in the dress she
wore when she rode to St. Paul's cathedral to
return thanks for the defeat of the Spanish
armada, affords us the best example of the
style Of that time-which was spoken of by the
writer Of The Dumb Knight as tire made
castle upon castle, jewel upon jewel. knot upon
knot, crowns. garlands. gardens and what not.
But when q vain old maid attempts to cover up
her wrinkles and conceal her age by elaborate,
rich and gaudy dress, what could we expecR
That the exceptions TO these extrayagancles
we're few is emphasized by the poet Haywood,
who praises q lady who has
"Her hair well drest.
Without gold lace or spaDgles."
A beautiful original portrait of Mary, Queen
Of Scots, owned by the Duke of Devonshire,
displays that unfortunate lady at the age Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

By virtue of a deed Of trust to me bearing date the
9th day January, A. D. 1889, recorded in Liber No.
1865 folio $780, OF the land records OF the District
of Columbia and at the request OF the parties secured
bidder. on WEDNESDAY, the EIGHTH DAY OF
JANUARY, AID. 1880, at FOUR O'CLOCK PM, at
Washington d. c., the following personal property,
mentioned and described in the schedule annexed TO
said deed of trust. TO wit: Desks Chairs, file
Books. Book Cases, $50 Files Of 1.-The Sunday
Gazetteer and all the Books and Papers used in the
ordinary of business of the publication Of said
Gazette and belonging thereto; also i A. b. Taylor
eether with the shsfting and Betting. Also 900
pounds (more or lessJ Minion Body Type 500 pounds
lmore or less) Nonparel Body Type, 81 Advertising
Fonts of Advertising Type three Fonts Head Letters
four Double Galleys; 10 single Galleys; 80 Column
Rules; PA fractions of Column Rules 152 Double and
Single Advertising Rules: 325 News and Head Dashes
five Head Rules; A Brass Foot Slugs: 100 pounds
tmore or less) Single and Double Heads and Dashes;
nine Double Stands AZ Cases; Job Cabinet with 20
Cases; Two Imposing Stones; one Proof Press; IL
Chattels and effects connected with the publication Of
the said Sunday Gazette. including the good will
thereof.
The sunday Gazette receives the services Of the As
socinted Press. same a the Sunday Herald. Sunday
The above property goods and effects will be sold in
bulk with the good viii of said Gazette.
Terms OF sale: 900 down at time Of sale, other
wise the same viii be immediately resod At the risk
and cost Of defaultng purchaser and the balance Of
purchaser not to have possession Of the same until al
purchase money shall have been paid. And II not
paid within said five days said property. goods ana
effects with said good will Will DO resod at risk and
ment WILLIAM J. MILLER. Trustee.
d26-d&dbe 4S6 LOUISIANA avenue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

GEN. JACKsoN's EXPERIENCES
During this long interval the history Of Off
cial dining presents an interesting chapter Of
the inner social life of administrations. The
number and scope of these state dinners during
IL season have varied to suit the wishes and So
cial tendencies of the President and his house.
hold. President Jackson began the social part
of his presidential career with a system OF
wholesale official feeding which embraced
Senators and Representatives and party friends.
Toward the end of his term he grew tired of
these generous state and political feasts and
finally abandoned all except those of purely
ceremonial character. The old hero's expert
ences respecting the polite feeding qualities of
the mass Of Senators and Representatives were
not very satisfactory judging from his expressed
views on the subject, collectively and individ-
ually. President Grant, like Washington and
JACKSON. had host of military and political
friends at home and q worldwide circle of Wis.,
iting admirers from foreign lands who called at
the executive mansion to pay homage to the
great captain of the war.
THE GRANT ADMINISTRATION.
The state dinners during the Grant regime
were arranged during each season in series of
four to the Vice President and the cabinet. to
the diplomatic corps, to the Supreme Court OF
the United States and to a mixed company of
Senators and Representatives. The form of
invitation used was OF more pronounced style
than that in vogue by his predecessors.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04
CHANCERY SALE OF VALUABLE LOT ON L
~ SIhEET NORTHWEST, BEING No. 1888.

By virtue of decree Of the Supreme Court OF the
District OF Columbus passed in EQUITY No l /, 1g3 in
which Harry ". Bickerton ct al arr cOmplalnants and
John Biekerton ct al. defendants Will sell at
pubilc ACTION IN front OF the premises ON MONDAY.
JANCARIr THlk 1890, AT HALF-PAsT
-FOUR O'CLOCK PM, the following described real
estate known and designated the plat of the city
of Washington the eastern ha of the west half Of
Lot IN square Numbered lao, with improyements
Terms Of SALE One-third cash. balance two equal
instalents at one aud two years with interest and
secured by deed of trust the property sold or All
cash. at the option of the purchaser deposit Of
hundred (l0O) dollars Will be required time Of
sale All conveyancing at cost of purchaser. and If
terms not complied with IN ten days. the trustee
the right readVertise and sell the risk
and cost of defaulting purchaser.
EDWIN b. HAY. Trustee,
- 1928 Ny ave.
WALTER b. WILLIAMS 4 co,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-01-04

ATyN
An envelope Of corresponding size and rich
paper, with the arms of the United States en-
bossed in gold upon the flap, held the valued
missive.
The state dinners stand at the head Of the
list OF conventional Inequalities at the execu-
tive mansion.
THE FIRST STATE DINNER.
The first entertainment of this character was
given by President Washington in May, 1889, in
honor of the arrival of Mrs. Washington at New
York. then the capital seat of government. i'm
mediately after his Inauguration. The guests
we're invited with reference to the order OF Of
fetal precedence. viz: the Vice President rep
resenting the first Office of the legislative
branch, The heads of executive departments,
the foreign ministers, as guests of the nation.
two Senators representing the upper and the
Speaker the lower body Of Congress. The sp-
pointment OF chief justice of the United
States was not made until the following Sep
TENDER, otherwise his place would have been
next to the Vice President
The form OF invitation used for the state din
ners of the first administration was as follows: