Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1890-07-27
TO NIAGARA FALLS.
DELIGHTFUL TRIP UP THE HUDSON
ARRIVAL IN CANADA.
The Fails Somewhat Overrnted. BuS In
s1pressibly Magnifcent-Other I'm
prsssions and Experiences
Crank and Couples.
correspondence Of the Richmond plspsscn.l
NIAGARA FALLS. July Is. 1890.

~r"hk ana COupees
Correspondence Of the Richmond Dispstchl
NIAGARA FALLS, July Is, 1890.
Perhaps some of your Younger readers
would not object to perusing few lines
from this place, which REACHED this morn
ing. Cali the old boys Fnow all about it.
Of course.) In the first place let me tell
the youngsters the best way of getting
here. Do not take continuous ride on
the rail OF twelve to fifteen miles Crom
New York., if you are not in hurry. but
split the journey in two. taking half up the
Hudson by boat and tho remainder by
rail. You will thus accomplish the jour-
fatigue than If taken all bv rail. Besides
the unapproachable scenery of the
| Hudson the temperature on the river IL
always delightful at this season of the
year. while the boats are almost without
exception all that can be desired. The
day line, particularly. by which travelled,
is unsurpassed. Its boats, the Albany and
New York, especially the latter. are con-
sidered the finest river steamers in the
world. The usual massive overhead
framework has been dispensed with,
the saloons, dining-rooms, &c. being
light and open. with the sides and
front wholly of glass, thus giving an
unobstructed view Of the river-scenery
without exposure TO the elements. The
decorations and furniture are of the most
elegant description. No more delightful
journey can be taken than this days ride
from New York to ALBANY. The fare rs
moderate-no more than if you went by
rail. good band is on each boat, which
discourses sweet music throughout the
trip.
ANOTHER TIP.
When you arrive at Buffalo, on the New
York Central road. don't do as did and
transfer 10 the Michigan Central, whose
depot is the same. held through ticket
to the Falls by the New York Central, and
when told TO "change for Niagara" took
the train pointed out to me by the blue
coated official whom questioned. which
Canada side branch. BY this blunder,
which was really no fault of mine, / had
fiity-fve cents extra to pay, and also made
nv dsbu ut the Falls on the Canadian
sjde-on the soil of her Imperial Majesty,
Victoria Guelph, instead of. as true
American should. upon the American side.
/ naturally felt little sore at first, butsoon
cheered M on rejecting that, as now had
n grievance, also had an excuse for calling
! on my lEltul NhUueTDllL urtlH, VI NiOii
| / spoke in my last letter. A little further
reflection, however, depressed me again.
Vanderbilt would very likely return my
card. with an intimation through the fun
| KEY that / could see his man-of-all-
Mr.. Chauncey Depew. But that will be
all right, too, ! again thought. / should
like TO see this Chauncey, OF whom L have
heard so much. | am something of an
| after zimmerman myself. / am after n
! hot / Anpff al,vay %
aud perhaps | can get from him his secret
OF how 10 work the thing. This reflection
put me IN good spirits again, and so L
alighted from the train in Mrs. Guelph's
| dominons. feeling very well contented and
in humor to be as friendly with the old
lady as she would let me.
THE FALLS DISAPPOINTING.
| suppose it is not the proper thing TO
| say. hut 1t is the fact nevertheless that my
| first view of the Falls was Disappointing.
! | hardly know Just what had expected to
| see-something grand, majestic, overpow-
erlng. admit; but the reality fell so far
| short of the expectation that at first was
rather set back. However finely tho Falls
| went down. they certainly did not como
up to my anticipation. Sitting in the
train as we approached the spot, | was all
alert to feel the ground trembling and to
hear
| "wiid Niagara's laundering sound"
| but | could detect nothing of the sort.
! Making all due allowance for physical i'm
pedimentum | must assert it as fact that
| the roar and rumble of Niagara have been
| overrated. 1t is grand-inexpressibly mag
nihcent IN some respects, but 1t is not a
| kind of grandeur TO oyerpower a man Of
normal emotions and perceptions: Per-
| haps | am lacking in impressibiiity or
| belong unconsciously to the nil ddrnirdrf
| fraternity. THIS NAV or may not be, but
| il is a fact that nv first view of the Falls
was O disappointment.
| As everybody knows the Falls are in two
sections-A and Canadian. Though
| as an American | hate to make the admis-
| sion, it is nevertheless true that the Ca
nucks have the best assortment of the
article. On the American side the water
| tumbles over straIght-edged precipice.
while on the other side the cliff il curved,
making the famous Horseshoe Falls, and
| by far the better display. So sheer and high
| is the descent that the spray thrown up rises
| in n fleecy cloud az high as the falls them
selves, and caught by the wind is carried
over in smart shower TO the country
around for quarter of mile or more.
AMERICAN ATTRACTIONS.
Tho American side, however, presents
| the best aspects in the way of ralnpows,
| owing to its position relatively to the sun.
| Here also is the great cave of the winds,
where you cannot hear n companions voice.
and is consequently a favored resort of
married couples which have outliyed the
honeymoon. 1t is also said to be the only
place on the globe where rainbows form
an entire circle. sometimes three ut once,
the visitor passing through them" This
NAV or nav not be. cannot affirm which
from personal experience, as failed to take
in the cave. had Just made circuit of
the falls ON the Maid or the Mist.
the little steamer which makes the
trip, and having experienced something
like asphyxia while passing through the
spray. deemed it prudent not to tempt
Providence aud put myself =" in a hole
needlessly.. The trip on the Maid of the
Mist is an experience well worth undergo
ing and gives BY far the best views of the
wonderful work of nature. developed in
a hooded waterproof and looking like
some villainous Guy Fawx bound on an
expedition of plumber and rapine. you
take your seat at the box of the little boat.
which steams slowly around the Falls.
passing as closely as safety will admit and
through .he dense wind-driven spray.
which nearly takes away your breath and
drenches you as thoroughly as would
July thunder-shower.
TIE BEAUTY AND sUBLIMnTTEs.
IN TINS position the beauty ana suOnmlty
of the Falls become at once apparent and
the disappointment of the first view. of
which have spoken is dispelled. Look
ing up you see what appears to be O sheet
of shining silver unfolding its broad. beam
ing surface out of Heaven itself. The illu-
sion. with n little lift of the Imagination. IS
perfect. The blue sky stretches above. and
out of its very breast this broad. cleaning,
glistening rainbow-shot mass OF molten
silver falls majestlcally, while from its
base rises a cloud of spray that looks
like the heeciest cotton, but which
nearly stiles you as you pass slowly
through 1t. This is the American fall.
When you get to the Horseshoe the silver
is changed to emerald, but the clouds Of
cotton remain and envelop you almost
from sight as the plunglng little vessel
moves slowly around the edge Of the
froth carefully keeping out of reach of the
maelstrom, which to touch would be in
slant destruction to both vessel and pas
sengers. The difference in color of the
falls is due to the variance in volume of
the water. the Horseshoe stream being