Morning journal and courier., 1890-03-22

l >~ASS AASS
 milliner. The heads of the house of Bragan- zs, before hin, have always married princesses.
 and not tradeswomen. Your family lost the French throne by its cheese-paring econ- omy. Buy your bonnets; and since you must be stingy, he so in some other way" The fact is that the Queen mother has been so long the sovereign lady of the land, without rival, that she cannot bear to see herself sup. planted, least of all by her dauRhter-in- law. Moreover, she prefers her second SOD, the Duke of Oporto, and would like to see him on the throne.
 MIR. wAKEmAN'sJOURNEYINGs AIgiers, ssThe White City Upon the
 Hillslde,, Algerian Character-The
 Tide of Human Travel-The Moza-
 bites - Military Jews of Algiers-
 Their Trade and Habits of Dress
 The scavenger Train of Algiers.
 ALGIERs, Feb. 21. 1 To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
 Although the environs of Algiers are en. chanting in their uniqueness of architecture in villa. palace, khouba and tiny Arab will lages nestl1ng beneath olives and palms, the larger human interest will always be felt by the stranger in what may be seen within the fine boulevards and ancient, unmodernized streets of 'the white city upon the hillside '' Nor will you have to wander in search of this. The great Boulevard de la Republique, 1 the chief street of Algiers, faces the harbor, and on the city side are innumerable mas sive structures, for marine. governmental and commercial purposes. Rue de Ia Liberte and it's continuation, Rue Bab Azzoun, run paralell behind. Rue Bab el Oued is a sort of extension of these, leading around the base of the promontory on which the city is built to Fort Neuf and the near town of St. l Eugene. From these streets as base, and l in a measure division line between the new Algiers of the French and the remaining old thoroughfares, with defined boundaries in Rue Porte Neuve on left and Boulevard Valee at the right, ascend sinuously over triangu- lar quarter to the Kasban, the ancient cita- del, poised at the extreme point of the prom ontory, and the angle, perhaps five hundred feet above the sea. Within this triangle are found the densest native population, the strangest architecture, and all manner of scenes in the every day life of the people of more thorough oriental ooloring than can be witnessed in any other equal space in AL giers, TripoN or Egypt. The splendid Place du Government with it's fine border of trees is fairly between the two extremities of this triangular maze of Algerian thoroughfares and activities. On two sides of the square are masses of carriages day and night. All lines of tramway and omnibuses center here. ] The hundred thousand or 80 Arabs below the Kasbah stream through it at least once a day. Trains from the desert and outlying villages must pass this way. People reach 1 ing the quays, coming from the harbor, pass, | ing to and from different portions of the city, the military in countless squads and detachments, members of foreign embassies, 1 countrymen with produce for the markets, citizens going to and from the markets, in l fact every manner of being and interest cen- ! tered here must at some hour of the day or ! night aid in making up the studies thus p'e- | sented.
 So taking your station among the little | Arab bootblacks of the Place du Gouvern- ment, few hours of quiet observation will | show you more of Algerian character and life than could be told in an entire book from the most graphic pen; while no art ! could ever paint the movement and action l which lend such vigor, color and feeling to | the curious contrasts crowding upon the ! sight. In no city that have ever visited | are found such startling contrasts both in | nationality and costume. It seems as though l representatives of every nationality and con- dition on earth were here, and, within an hours time impressed your sight and thought | with the sharp distinctions of varying civili- zations, as we'll as conditions, of all men. I had not stood contemplating the throng five | minutes when an American tramp printer | edged up beside me and "nicked the office" | for auld lang syne, to which, pledge you, my heart made me respond with more than 1 ordinary liberality. Near him, against the | wall, lounged Malay sailor. In front of ! him stood a French priest. Te my left loi- tered clean bloused Chinaman, just land- | ed, and gazing with his sad, soiled eyes as if ! for an available laundry stand. While with | in a radius of ten feet square were grouped | three Turkish merchants in earnest conver- l sation, two Russian travellers, like myself in- | terested as onlookers, Kabyle man and wo- ! man with big, scared eyes, as though they were lost, church of England curate with pale, consumptive face, two American sail- l ors, dirty and drunken, scenting only Alge- rian possibilities of vice, and, more power to l the little runt for his explorative prowess, 8 l tiny hump back, sallow and shaven, wearing a stiff cap with the well known red band of | the Salvation army, who deferentially hand- ! ed us all pulp paper "dodger" on which ! was badly printed in English, French and Arabic, "Salvation is FreeI"-Fly From The | Wrath To Come!" upon the reading of which the two American sailors started alertly towards the harbor, as if absent from their vessel without leave, and fearful of apprehen- sion and punishment.
 But let us watch these strange and varied tides of human travel setting past us in all directions. This group comprises half scent and are believed to be identical in race with the scriptural Moabites. They are the fercest money makers of Algiers, and are
 butchers, grocers, bakers, anything for rich- es. Their greed is prompted by o curious
 ambition. That is to gain independence and return to their homes at Hammada Chebka,
 little oasis surrounded by lofty rocks in the
 Sahara. In this little blistering beehive,
 containing about twenty square miles, are
 countless cultivated gardens and five popu- lous cities; and to sometime come back here ! and idle and dream the Mozabite will work
 and starve half a lifetime. You cannot mis
 take him in Algiers. He is darker than the
 Arab; not 50 black as the negro; his skin
 has the appearance of continuous oiling; he
 wears a white turban, but is chiefly distin-
 guished in dress because of invariably wear-
 ing sort of sleeveless tunic, called the gan-
 doura, which falls straight to the knees. like
 my blue denims tunic when was a country
 boy nearly forty years ago. The stripes and
 ziezsgs in this garment are something mar,
 velous. His wife wears the ,adjsr or veil,
 like the Arab women, but her haik (shawl oI
 wrap) which covers her head, falling nearly to her feet, Is of blue and white checked
 stuff, similar to that worn by negresses iu
 Algiers These Mozabites have with them g
 bevy of Kabyles who are in from the farther Atlas range of mountains with animals fol the shambles. They are butchers; are or
 their way to the abbatoir at Hanna, along
 the ehore to the south of the city; and are volubly depressing prices in excited banter !, ings. Staggering at their heels are dozen
 or more navies from the grim old German man of war in the harbor. They have sal ) all night, drinking and singing, and nothing 5 worse Gall honor to the German man for it.! in the cafe de Bordeaux, just across the Place there. They have fair skins, curling bearda, clean, honest faces, these gay fellows , and though a little rosy from the wine and , the choruses, pass along civilly, keeping as good step as could be expected, and, hand 1T hand, are still softly singing as Germans only can sing that bundeslied of magic ten ) derness and power. "Brueder reicht di' , Hand gum Bunde" Following these are tn