Sacramento daily record-union., 1890-09-18
IN CENTRAL SOUDAu.
WHERE THE PURELY AFRICAN RACES
ARE SEEN AT THEIR BEST.
Life in Wurnu-How European Visitors
are Welcomed-The Natives Proud
of Their Horses.
Tst. Louis elobe.Democrat |

called the heart of Africa can be found l,50t
miles south of the Mediterranean, and
from 1,200 to 1900 west from the Atlantic
To the immediate north of this section are
the wild lands of Asben merging into the
sands of the Sahara; at the west is the
mighty Niger and the unpenetrated coun-
try beyond; to the south is a dangerous
spread familiar only to the savages who
roam through the pestiferous forests, while
at the east are far-reaching wildernesses
1t is not an inviting surrounding for a
town, but in the center is fertile spot in
habited by several thousand people. 1t is
known as Wurnu, and is the residence OF
Umuru, King of the Mussulmans OF the
Soudan. Tie place is protected by a
massive wall of sun-dried bricks plastered
with mud, Before the western wall, that
is the most open to attack from any
enemy. is deep ditch. The strength OF
the Soudan's martial forces is in the cav
airy, and al all the towns the principal
defense is laid out to prevent a surprise by
horsemen.
The gateways to the towns are conspicu-
GUS by the forts which guard them, as well
as by the sight of people passing in and
out. One of these, the Kofa-n-Rima, from
which starts the road to Kano, CONNER
cial center Of these regions, appears pro-
tected by a massive, square-built and fiat
rooted tower, with door formed of thick,
roughly-cut planks, and covered with iron
plates A leafy, wide-spreading sycamore
on the outside forms lounging ground for
the idlers cf the town.
There is but little doing at Wurnu in
the middle Of the day, as it is then so hot
that but few venture from the shade of
their houses. European visitors are few,
but when they do call they will be met by
a company Of fierce Bedouin horsemen,
who will galop about with shrill cries and
frantic brandishing of weapons as though
about to annihilate the stranger But
this is only demonstration of friendship
and should cause no apprehension. Then
will come a band of musicians, playing
tom-toms and huge trumpets several feet
long, followed by a mounted nobleman
bearing an official welcome from the
Sultan. The visitor will then be escorted
to quarters especially prepared, with food
and drink in plenty. The Sultan is hos
pitality itself and the ceremony gone
through is but an expression of his good
will.
Wurnu has no streets in the real mean
ing of the word, the whole inclosure with
in the walls being divided into courts in
stead, the huts and houses being in these.
Winding paths are the only ways of travel
between the coIrts, and these are often
blocked by piles of refuse. Most of the
houses have walls OF red clay and fiat
roofs, with pipes to run the rain off. An
occasional building will have a painted
roof, and in place of the customary square
doorway will have an entrance shaped like
a horseshoe. During the morning and
late in the afternoon, when the people get
out to transact their business, they sit in
picturesque groups in the shade, bicker-
ing over trade, discussing the merits of
various articles and gossiping about cur
rent events. 1t is not unusual to see men
engaged in embroidering clothing. Strange
as it may seem, thessSoudan women do not
attempt work of this kind, leaving it en-
tirely to the male sex.
A prominent feature of Soudanese life is
the horse. It is the pride of the owner,
and the animals appearance and trappings
are given more attention than any other
one thing Only stations are used for
riding, and they are vicious as a rule.
They are trained for quick charges and
sudden stops. 1t is the ambition of every
rider to make his beast prance and plunge
about, and TO stimulate such action the
bits are of a tortuous make, calculated TO
fret and worry the most stupid brute. The
brides are risged with bits Of bright brass,
little bells, tassels and small leather pen
dants of different colors, with reins OF
plated leather The saddles are ponder
Gus but magnificent creations. Colors OF
crimson, blue and gold are preferred, and
yelvets. gold lace and fringes are used al
most without end Before and behind
the rider are pommels foot high, making
it difficult for him to mount or dismount
without help. The stirrups are in keep
ing, polished brass work predominating.
In their dress the standing of the wearer
regulates the quantity and quality of the
material A nobleman's trousers are made
in the shape of a sack twelve feet broad
and two feet deep. At the lower corners
are holes TO put the feet through. When
ptlt on, the sack is drawn in to the waist al
the top with string, so that the legs are
swathed in the folds of the great bag that
is commonly covered with intricate pat
terms of embroidery. Over the trousers il
the gown; that is also a gigantic sacE
with a slit for the head and holes for the
arms. The extra cloth Is drawn up il
folds and hung from the shoulders. The
face, when going away from the house, il
covered partially with a white or blu,
cloth known as the "litham." This pre-
vents the dust, always blowing in clouds
from entering the nose and month. Or
the head IS worn a voluminous turban
White is the popular color for dress, witt
blue for change. Cleanliness is char
acteristic Yards are kept swept, cookin!
utensils and dishes carefully washed, anC
soap and water freely and often used il
the ablutien of the body and clothing
Unlike most Mohammedan tribes, tn,
Soudanese are thrifty and industrious, Will
no heavy tasks laid on the women. Mum
bers Of the men are skillful workers il
brass, and urns finished with beautiful
Moorish designs are plenty. The othe
principal forms OF work in this metal ar
trays and bowls. These are all hammers
out of brass rods.
Among the women can be seen all val
tiles of face and figure, from the copper
colored Fillani, with slender, 1.-the figure
well-shaped face and positive beautifr
eyes, to the shapeless form, black Skin
ugly face and muddy eyes of the lowe:
negro type They are all dressed alik'
with a lower tarkedi or cloth around tn
waist, hanging to the ankles, a second shee
wound round the body under the armpit
and third worn in the varied modes of
shawl on the head and shoulder. Th
hair is gathered into solid ridge Of gress
and hair, which extends from the brow |
the nape OF the neck, something after II
manner OF the crest of helmet. Fro
each temple hangs a kind Of stiff love-locI
The ankles are adorned with enormousl
heavy anklets of solid brass. the bar beir
y. j. Ic :. :,