Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1890-08-30
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the injunction let us step out on our hotel bal
cony. which overlooks the central plaza Of this
queer old town, to enjoy the street scenes and
morning sunshine.
The "City Of Peacer' Gazing at the stu
pendous mountains which stretch away to the
horizon on every side, one ceases to wonder at
its strange title, remembering that when those
early Spaniards explored these barren heights
in search Of gold and unconquered Indians and
found this green and cup-like hollow, they were
glad to rest here awhile from their journeyings
And certainly the very spirit of peace, or
rather Of idleness, seems brooding over the
scene. Because of the great elevation, about
5000 feet above sea level, everybody moves
about slowly who moves at all, Tor that dis
tressing complaint known as sirroche, or diff
Guilty of breathing is sure to follow active ex-
erclse. Away up here winter and summer are
much alike, for though completely sheltered
BY mountain walls from all the winds that blow,
the air has in 1t the chill of the nearby snow
fields. Out Of doors in the middle of the day
it is tolerably comfortable, but the houses, not
one Of which has any sort of apparatus for
warming purposes, are damp and cold as so
many tombs except in rooms which are thor
oughly penetrated by the midday sun.
PICTURES FROM THE ANDES.
But there are compensations everywhere for
most of the ills of life, and one with an eye to
the picturesque may find them even in La Paz.
Directly opposite our window sky-piercing
llllmani, the giant sentinel of the Andes,
looms up like a sheeted ghost, white as unsul-
lied snow can make it, while on every hand,
stretching far rs the eye can reach, are lines of
mountains rising tier above tier to the horizon
-golden-green on the sunny foot hills.
amethyst and brown beyond them and the dis
tant heights misty blue.
In front of Illimani and looking close be-
side its snowy background (but in reality 40
miles or more this side of it, rises the dark,
five-peaked and many-belled tower of city
sanctuary; and nearer yet, fronting us on the
other side of the plaza, is the sky-blue build
ing with dark red doors and pillars and tall
white tower with a clock in it, which was
formerly a church, but now-stuck all over
with circus and lottery placards-is used by
congress for its sessions. On one side OF it a
long lavender-hued structure stretches to the
corner with broad strip of pea-green painted
across the front, in which appears in black
letters the legend, 'Cafe de Paris" while on
the other hand, a two-story building with
arches above and below, all pale green, COM
pletes that side of the square.
IN FRONT OF THE PRESIDENTS PALACE.
Separated by narrow street from the en-
erald-hued arches aforesaid rises the presi-
dents palacio-three storied, the lower story
of hewn stone left in its natural color, the up
per part painted pale blue. Its windows have
ueltueT Outer nor inner shutters, Dut eacn Is
guarded by an iron rail balcony. Red-trou-
sered soldiers are lolling all day before its en-
trance, and above them floats the gorgeous flag
OF Bolivia, three equal stripes, red, yellow and
green, with the national escutcheon stamped
In the middle. There are few hours in the
twenty-four when some military company is
not parading, or band playing before the pres
idents casa. Whenever the national anthem is
rendered, a rather jerky tune, it seems
to me, without much heart in it, we
notice that most men take off their hats
There have been times in the history of the
country when to have neglected this token of
patriotism would have been dangerous. Flank
ing the imposing executive mansion and COM
plotting the right-hand side of the square is a
half-finished structure built of polished blocks
of white stone with beautifully carved pillars
and window caps. So long ago was this i'm
mense enterprise begun that its original pur-
pose seems to have been forgotten and grass is
now growing out of the roofess walls. Though
at least ESQ, 600 must have been spent upon it
the work has been entirely abandoned for
many years.
Across the plaza, facing the palace stands
the Hotel Central, pale pink above, strawberry
red below, with heavy black trimmings and the
name OF the proprietor sprawled clear across
the front in bright blue letters. Next to it is a
restaurant dressed in green and lavender, while
Its adjoining neighbor is all gray, in a salon de
billares dedicated to the historic twins .'Romulo
and Reno" Our own side of the square is
occupied by another hotel, kept by a busting
French widow; a row of shops at one end and
at the other magnificent stone casa through
whose open door one may sometimes catch
giimpses OF alabaster staircases, fountains,
statues-erected many years ago by a viceroy
OF Spain for the beauty who possessed Lis heart
but did not wear wedding ring. We may
remark, en- PEASANT that Just back of us in
another hotel, misnamed Americana, the trav-
eler finds no lack Of accommodations equally
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ever he patronizes will regret that he had not
put up" at one Of the others.
THE PLAZA MAYOR.
This Plaza Mayor Of La Paz, like that Of other
Spanish American cities, is its principal feat
ure, from which all things radiate. Its entire
surface is paved with small stones set in reg
ular pattern OF diagonal bars, as are the streets
Immediately surrounding it, the figures rem
dered more pronounced by alternating black
and white stones, the former brought from an
island III Lake Titicaca. Rows of little trees,
most Of them dead or dying, langush between
the stones and the whole is surrounded by a
high adobe wall. The central fountain is re-
ally worth looking at, lofty affair of alabaster
and marble. A circular basin. very large and
deliberately carved, is filed with water to the
brim and reached by flight of marble steps,
extending all around. In tho middle of this
basin four big dolphins, standing on their
heads, supporting huge alabaster shell, which
is also filled with water and contains smaller
dolphins in similar attitude unfolding another
shell. This also ntains smaller dolphins sup
porting third shell; in the latter stands tall
and slender female, nude trident in hand The
whole is inclosed by an iron fence, with large
square pillars at regular intervals. each pillar
topped by a marble sea lion, which is slowly
vomiting water in 9 most sea-sick manner for
the accommodation OF people who come to
drink or to fill their jars.
THE STREETS OF La PAz,
winding up and down the hills, are remarkably
steep and irregular, all paved with small sharp
stones, many Of them having sidewalks 80 mar
row that two pedestrians can hardly walk
abreast. Looking down at the one which
passes Immediately below us we see that il de-
sends q sharp hill, at the foot of which are
crowds Of people. should you brave the dan
ger of sirroche and venture down there YOU
will find all manner Of commodities spread ont
for sale on both sides Of the walk for several
squares, up and down the four streets that
diverge from the market house. Sunday morn
ing early is the best time to go, for in these
day Of the week. There are fish from Lake
Titicaca, mutton and beef from the Andean
plateau, fruits and vegetables from the Yungas
and other distant valleys. There 10 Indian
work Of many kinds, notably knitted caps of
brilliant color, mittens that draw on over
hands and arms to the shoulders and
are fastened together, at the back,
hues and ready-made garments Of every
description, from ox-eyed sandals to the big
sleeved, splendidly embroidered velvet Jackets
Of the festive Cholos. Searching among the
smaller booths one may pick up veritabIe Gu
rios in the way Of tiny idols from the Inca
made by the Indians, which it would be no sin
to Worship. thew being NOT in the likeness of