The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-04-27
Villages Upon Etna's Side, Some
times DesoIated, Always Fer
tilted, by the Volcano.
Depopulation Of Bronte Upon the
Approach of Wall
of Lava.
Echoes Of the Heroic Classics Become
Hated Mockeries of Wrongcd and
Outraged Race.

NAPLES, Italy, March %, 1s9O.-An ascent
of Etna will suggest great opportunities for
Sicilian observation in traversing the cir
Gle of cities and villages at the tremendous
base of the mountain. A road such as it is,
nearly $50 miles long, forms the pinkish
and dirty thread upon which all these lava
threatened towns seem to be strung. Per-
haps fourth of the distance can be made
by rail, along the Ionian sea at Etna's
eastern base. On our return from the as
cent of Etna, persuaded Balbino to turn
over the affairs of his tiny alberghetto or
inn to his grinning and greasy helpmeet,
and not only accompany me on the tour
around Etna, but to remain my companion
across the entire island to Palermo, over
the old road upon which Roman, Grecian
and Vandal armies chased each other back
and forth with such lively energy from
1000 to 1900 years ago.
As Palermo, the beautiful, is the imperial
city of every loyal Sicilian; as Balbino had
never set eyes upon it. and this would be
his one chance of a lifetime for seeing it:
and as there was a pleasant reward set at
the other end of his friendly services: after
extraordinary excitement and preparation
for departure, We set out by rail to Giar-
DIM, little nest of malaria and vermin
almost half way along the eastern Sicilian
coast to Messina. where we secured two ex-
cellent donkeys, leaving one half of their
hire as caparra or earnest money: made
excellent provision for weeks outdoor
life, if the conditions of the lonely and filthy
roadside inns rendered that necessary; and
Mt once began climbing the mountain road,
leading from the sea to the little hamlet
of Gaggi, on our way around the northern
foothills of Etna. just before reaching
Oo$k xol g.. L. L. l., l..
Ionian sea. To the northeast the lower
reach of the Italian peninsula was plainly
visible across the Strait of Messina; a score
of cities and villages showed their roofs
along the Sicilian shore edge to the north;
and so near that it seemed one could toss a
stone into its ruinous streets, lay Taormina
the ancient Iaurmenlum, perfect un-
housed museum of architectural monuments
of all ages.
We were travelling toward the source OF
the Alcantara river: and the road lays along
the brow of the mountain range above. The
flowing stream and its grand valley were
continually below us to the left. Beyond
and constantly in view, rose another range
of mountains, and Etna's peak from eigh
teen to twenty miles distant, loomet
grandly above. Here and there through in
servening valleys, were caught glimpses o.
sides-Piedimonte, peopled by mountain
GERS; LinRuagrossa and Castiglione, wher,
thousands of the peasantry are engaged ex
ctusively in cultivation of hazel-nuts; anl
Mojo. standing against the side of tn,
most northern crater of the Etna region
Indeed. all the way from the sea through
Francavilla, where we rested at noon, I,
Randazzo. which We reached before dark
the scenery in every direction is of an AL
pine character. Deep and clear-cut val
legs, showing masses Of luxuriant verdure
tremendous peaks cutting sharp against
sAy Of intensest blue; foaming rivers an,