Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1890-09-14
THRTNNNGTNTGS.


hand, this is especially lady-like when finished
with narrow edging OF very full lace.
In bodice arrangement the vest is to play
conspicuous part; it will be for winter what the
blouse and shirt front has been for summer at
tire. Vests are either made OF plain p ush or
velvet, slightly fulled beneath the side plaits SO
as to droop in horizontal, broken folds, or laid
In to form point, when OF fancy trimming or
brocade goods.
Folds of material and passementerie may be
tastefully used in trimming bodices, and here
word of caution cannot be amiss. In thinning
the front is apt to get it all and the back to be
left unadorned. Now, shoulder blades are
so .netimes obtrusive, it might be well to cast
backward glance and in adjusting folds try to
have a tasteful back as well as front.
There is also another part of the dress which
amateurs and village dressmakers are liable to
undervalue. The Importance of well fitted
foundation skirt cannot be over estimated
This skirt must be in four pieces-front, back
and two side cores. The front width should be
twenty-five inches across at the hem and gored
to half much-eleven inches-Rt the waist
line. When ready to plat it on to the cord
which has suppianred the belt, tie little fullness
at the top must be fitted into the figure with
three small darts about four inches long,
one exactly in the center and one on each side
and the surplus material folded in in these darts
and cut away. The side cores are, strange as it
may seem, straight widths, half yard across
dart directlyover the hips is taken up in each at
the top and the material again cut away. Such
should make the skirt lie fat and smooth to the
figure far as four inches back of the front
! seams from which p ace what is left of the side
cores is gathered into the belt with the back
width. This back width is also straight piece,
twent;' six incles wide, and at the top is gath
cred into not less than eight and oue-haf
inches. Extremely wide hips require more
width here. The skirt should, therefore, meas
ure two yards and t~elve inches around the hem.
To return to dress fabrics and costumes, a
very pretty costume for fall excursions is of
gray Blarney tweed, and is made with plated
skirt, yacnt corSage opening on a white silk
skirt, striped with hair lines of black. The
jacket to be worn with this is lined with ma
hogauy silk. and the hat, gray straw, trimmed
with back birds and tulle.
Willie brown, gray and black are mentioned SIS
dominant. navy blue is by no means passe color,
neither will it be so long the Princess of Wales
dresses of this color. This color in flannel COM
bined wit white, or in cloth trimmed with gold
passementerie makes elegant or serviceable
gown as best BELTS the requirement. In flannel
the skirt is plainly made, the back drapery
killed, and deep hem covered with stitching
forming border al around. The jacket to wear
tn this is loose fitting in front with small roll
collar invisibly fastened, that opens
blouse of pale blue silk with embroidered
shield shaped shirt front.
For trimming, feather bands of all colors are
to be used. High oorsages will have feather
band around the throat. and low evening bod
ices will be bordered with feathers around the
neck and armholes. Black curled ostrich bands
are used on light colored gowns, or cream, old
blue, pale pink. yellow and red. Many articles
made wholly of fea- hers-vests, collars, pei
crimes, stoles, cuffs and muffs.
Plain colors in hues and princess effects in cut
are always genteel. and give the wearer a lady
like appearance, but plainness and smoothpess