The morning call., 1890-07-06

Of the diplomatic corps and belonging to
ofhclal clrcles were inside the rails, but
separate and out near the walls in what
might be termed standing pews.
In the body of the church were many
women Ia Greek costumes, striking rather
than pretty in appearance. The skirts,
usually blue In color, hang from the waist
in innumerabe pleats; the jackets are
richly embroidered and fastened by huge
silver buckles of curious workmanship; the
bust Is covered with fine lace or elaborate
embroidery; in the ears are long pendant
earrings; on the head heavy coils Of hair
pied high, the masses made higher still by
cloths wound turban-like about them, the
coils entwined with pearls or strings of
coins or medals. Rarely the owner of such
costume possessed what we are aecus-
toned to regard as a classical face, with a
clear-cut Greek profile.
The exercises opened with the TIE Deum
conducted by the venerable Archbishop in
elaborate vestments and eight bishops, four
yOung-l0oking, dark and swarthy, and four
old ones with flowing white hair and beard,
as is the custom. All these were in silver
and blue robes, highly embroidered and
covered with medallions. Their singing
was especially good, entirely without IN
strumental paniment. When, finally
mingling with the last joyful Kyrie Elei-
sou, the band stationed at the church door
broke in with the beautiful Greek national
instlnctvely to our Greek friends and
grasped their hands with words of congrat-
ulatien on our lips.
But little attempt at decoration of the
church had been made. Pretty Greek
crosses constructed of spears from the palm
leaf, were almost all that was provided to
mark the day as a special one. Immense
candles were burning before the altar and
oil lamps in great silver chandeliers hung
from the ceiling. The latter is richly dec
GRATED with golden arabesques and paint
ings. Paintings cover the walls and even
the doors. and in their treatment of scrip
turai subjects appear to be unlike what Is
to be seen in other Christian churches.
After the TIE Deum the services preced-
ing the procession Of the saint began, be-
ing led by a young member of the clergy,
the Archbishop being seated meanwhile re-
ceiylng salutations and the kisses OF the
local officials. The services we're short but
impressive, after which the mummy of
Saint Spirid0n, or Spir0, as the local dia-
lect Familiarity and atfectionately calls him,
in gilt casket, through whose windows
the head and shoulders are visible, was
Of the church to make the pilgrimage
through the streets of the city. This pro-
cession lasted several hours, since many
stops were made. Returning to the Con-
suPs we had from his windows good view
of the passage of the saint. To him are
dScIIDeu by the UdllVe OOIuOto al sHo
blessings which befall the island. The
church. which is the property of a noble
Greek family, derives considerable reye-
nue. from the offerings made almost daily
at the shrine of the saint.
Priests are not forbidden to marry, al
though since Bishop must be unmarried
or wldower, marriage Is bar to advance
ment and the priest who wishes to rise re-
mains single. To the Greek Church Greece
owes much-the preservation Of her lam
guage, a substantial share in the achieve
ment of her independence and the spread Of
education among all classes. Hence 1T Is
very close TO the hearts OF the people. The
Church of Greece, as distinguished from
what we often call the Greek church, is in
dependent of all other Greek churches and
governed by synod in Athens.
The army, although small, seems to be
we'll differed and equipped. Volunteers
had been called in and were undergoing
constant drill during the time of our stay.
They appeared to be intelligent, alert and
with the patriotism Of which we can have
no doubt, must be efficient. 1t is related
that in the COS the students Of the Uni
yersity went to their classes with arms in
their hands ready for their country's call.
The same spirit still prevails and Hellas'
sons will never again be enslaved.
In the Kings summer residence and gar
dens, Mon Repos, natural beauties have
been carefully preserved, and TO the rustic
retirement of shady walks, skirting the
beautiful sea or mounting the hills, COM
mend me for peace and quiet. Here the
hoary olive trees, with their gnarled and
perforated trunks glistening in the bright
sunlight, remain as they were planted,
some 800, some 400 years ago. Or, for a
marvel of landscape gardening where art
has put forth its best efforts to Guido ma
ture, lead me to the villa of the Austrian
Empress on the hills of Gasturi. Again, as
fancy beckons, we may mount the way to
Can0ne, the ''one-gun battery" and survey
the Island of Ulysses, his ship turned into
stone as monument to future ages. But
on any and all of these walks or drives to
Santa Deka, Pelleka, Paleocastrizze or Sal
vador, the chief charm of Corfiote scenery
lies in its flora. OF wild flowers | counted
over hundred varieties which in endless
profusion decked hills and valleys and gave
to every view a many-c0lored beauty. ExO-
tics flourish abundantly in the genial eli
mate, but the woodland flowers, every
Dody's property, are joy forever, and to
rich and poor alike.