The morning call., 1890-05-04
WAKEMAN
IN SICILY
From the Top of Mount Etna to
Beautiful Palermo by the Sea.
Strange Scenes in the Land That Has Been the
Theme of the Poet-How the Peasantry
Work, Are Fed and Housed.
Special to THE SUNDAY CALL.

NAPLES lltaIy), March 70, 1S9U.-An dsceut
OF Etna will suggest great opportunities iof
Sicilian observation In traversing the circle OF
cities and villages at the tremendous base OF the
mountain. road such as il Is. nearly l5o miles
long. forms the pinkish and dirty thread upon
which all these lava-threatened towns seem 10 De
strung. Perhaps fourth of the distance can De
made by rail- along the Ionian Sea aud Etna's
eastern base On-our return from the ascent OF
Etna 1 persuaded BalbIno 10 turn over the
affairs of his tiny aberghetto or Inn TO his
grnnng and greasy helpmeet, and not only ac-
company me on the tour around Etna, but to
then remain my companion across the entire
island to Palermo, over the old road upon which
Roman, Grecian and Vandal armies chased each
other back and forth with such lively energy
from 1000 to 1000 years ago.
AS Palermo the beautiful Is the imperial city
OF every loyal SIcilian; as Balblno had never set
eyes upon it, and this would he his one chance
OF lifetime for seeing IL; and as there was a
pleasant reward set at the other end OF his
friendly services, alter extraordinary excitement
and preparation for departure we set out by rail-
10 Giardn a little nest Of malaria and vermin
almost half way along the eastern Sicilian coast
TO Messina, where we secured two excellent dom
keys, leaving half of their hire as caparra or
earnest-money; made excellent provision for a
weeks outdoor life, IL the conditions OF
the lonely and filthy roadside inns rem
dered that necessary, and at once began
climbing the mountain road leading from
the sea to the little hamlet of Gaggi, Oh our way
around the northern foothills of Etna. Just be-
fore reaching the latter, we halted for last look
at the Ionian Sea. To the northeast the lower
reach OF the Italian peninsula was plainly Visl-
bic across the Strait of Messina score OF
cities and villages showed their roofs along the
Sicilian shOre-edge to the north and so near that
1t seemed one could toss stone Into its ruinous
streets, lay Ta0rmina. the ancient TaurOmenium,
perfect unh0used museum of architectural
We were travelling toward the source OF the
Alcantara River, and the road lies along the
brow OF
THE MOUNTAIN RANGE ABOVE.
The flowing stream and its grand valley were
continually below us 10 the left Beyond, and
constantly in view, rose another range of noun
tans, and Etnas peak, from eighteen to twenty
miles distant loOmed grandly above. Here and
there through Intervening valleys were caught
Etnas sides-Piedimonte. peopled by noun
tanners; Lnguagrossa and CaStiglione, where
syes IN Sf s az are engaged efe
standing against the side OF the most
northern crater of tue Etna region. In
deed, all the way from the sea through
Erancayllla where we rested at noon, 10
handazZ0, which we reached before dark, the
scenery in every direction is OF an Alpine char
acter. Deep ana clear-cut valleys showing
masses OF luXurlant verdure; tremendous peaks
cutting sharp against a sky OF intensest blue;
foaming rivers and feathery mountain cascades
continually flashing upon the sight, high. perched
ruins OF Hellenic, Roman and the later Norman
fortresses, everywhere reminding OF an heroic
past ana romantic capanne or huts peeplng
from forest openings half way 10 the clouds;
with glints and CLEANS OF color from the clothing
OF Shepherds and mount alneers; all contributed
10 winsome blending OF the sublime, the rOman-
Tic and The picturesque.
We could see nothing OF Randazzo by night,
for BalbIno found lodging for us at the house OF
friend, and the embracing, chatter, pipes, wine,
and Hoods OF fearful "reminiscences OF these folk,
separated only by one mountain but celebrating
reunion as though they had girdled the earth
Tor The meeting, was AN enthTalling spectacle.
But when the morning came and we had set out
again our host running beside us for miles on
our way toward Bronte, aud had got opposite the
medieval r0okefy. what scene for painter lay
back there against the side of Elna. Here were
tile peaks dividing the sources OF the Alcantara,
which circles the volcano TO the north, and the
meto, Which sweeps about IL 10 The south. Behind
RandaZzO 10 the north, the empuTpled peaks we
had set behind US lie day before. To the east a
half dozen ordinary mountains against the sun
swept sides OF Etna like tiny, purple warts
against It's stupendous contour. And then an
Client RandaZZo. percned above deep raylue
It's Norman churches, tremendous towers and
ducal palaces very apotheosis of middle age
magnifcence aud power. One cannot wonder at
Frederick III loving RandaZZo, 1.-THE popuous"
or Tor drawing the magnificent old spot closer to
his heart by comforting the title of Duke of
handaZZo upon one OF his sons; nor
sIMPLE-MINDED BALBINo
Be blamed for believing that his insignificant
little island OF Sicily contains more area, wealth.
power and people than all the rest OF the world.
RandAZZ0 has population OF 10000 souls;
Bronte. which we reached for mid day rest, fully
16OO0i Aderno, to which we came late at night,
$4,000. Thriving villages dot the way between.
Yet all of these are actually upon The sides of
Etua, at times desolated but always fertiIized
by Its influenced
The situation of Bronte, with its mass of rude
houses, churches converts and fortresses, is a
curious study In the fIeakful action OF Etna. 1t
lies TO The east OF and above deep valley, its
buildings piled along up the mountain side in
most irregular fashion. Close 10 IT, and frowninp
above II, is a huge almost perpendicular mass
of lava. Etna boiled over one day and The
liquid mush of fire came slowly down, as
4. z.l. laaA .g,,r .f,.
mile wide and at times 100 feet deep at its
puffy. oOZy, breaking front. 1t came almost
straight toward Bronte, and the people scam
pered across the valley TO see their city spOnged
out. But just before this could happen EIna
had got through boiling. Tie lava stood there
in great wall and cooled of. Between the city
and This preclpce are now the finest vineyards
and olive groves In Sicily. Opposite the city, to
the west, magnificent mountains lift their heads
above the valley; and within the purple OF their
upper valleys can De seen the convent of Maui
ace, the Cathedral of Traina and the convent of
st. Elias of Ambula, all founded by great Roger
the Norman; while toward the huge of
Etna eau be seen rising above each other the
lesser craters OF Minardo, Royoio and The Monti
Lepre.
Bronte also gave to Lord Nelson a duke ION.
The KING OF Naples who conferred II, eompli-
msnted Nelson on, with NO no empty tiIe. It's net
city III the direction OF Aderno the road is cut
through tremendous beds OF lava; and we
climbed one OF the walls 10 trace The deep black
surface OF the furrow along the valley to the
west. and opposite. to the very cone of EtDa,
which the eye could follow In It's narrowing,
slnuous line. The entire way to Aderno, circllng
the western mountain base, is skirted by the
Simeto River, which is never out OF sight. and,
dashing unanimously toward the sea, forms the
western boundary of the volcanic region. On
the one hand was Etna with its score OF lesser
craters and unspeakably hideous barTens, with
here and there bit OF dirty heath and stunted
pine On the other as far as the eye could reach,
were mountains aud valleys, rich with cultiya-
ton, covered with
FIELDS OF CEREALS
And c0ttOn heautiful mn n e1onaa
with vineyards aud olive groves, and, near every
hut, hamlet, villa and every manner OF Enclosure
glorious with vines and flowers But where we
rode no living thing grew save withercd heath.
No stream couTsed across our way; no fountain
murmured by the roadside. The radiation OF the
sun from The lava-road gave heat Intense ana
sunocatlng; while the dust from the powdered
scorl8 at times seemed almost lntoerable.
Nearing Aderno rich masses OF Indian ng and
olive begun shutting out the hide0us lava beds,
and The immediate surroundings OF the weird old
place are as luxuriant as can be found on The
another queer old spot like this 10 all Europe.
1t Is simply solid mass OF converts and nun
nerles on the site OF the ancient Slcillan city Of
Hadranum, the religious houses founded 740
years ago by Roger l, being supported by I'M
mense landed estates over one-half of The
$4,000 souls art Inmates OF or are IN some way
attached TO these institutions while all the re-
mainder, except the nobility and few comfort
able merchants, are mere dependents. Tremen-
d0us grated structures rise terrace-like above
| each other, and with prisons and old Norman
keeps comprise all there is OF the city save the
nuts oi tue ioWly clustered Deheatn their Walls,
and tile burrows OF the laZZaroni reeking with
Nth and disease. There Is not an Inn In The place
| an average American would utilize as pig-sty.
| Foul vapors hang like fetid whispers OF death
within It's Streets The place cboked me- l
could not remain within IL. And so, as we
| had now reached the old Roman road leading
from Catauia TO Palermo, Daltled with Balbino
so vigorously that at last we set forth. late at
night with vicious, jeerng rabbe at our heels,
which followed us until we Il I'd passed The gates;
| aud some time after midnight, being halted by
the Government guards stationed at the western
| approach to the bridge across the Slmeto River
to Intercept mOuntaIneer brigauds, by the proper
| application OF Scldn coin, secured good tether-
| Ing and grazing for our jaded animals and excel
| lent shelter in some spare hunks belonging TO
the carbineers themselves
The distance from the SmetO River TO Palermo
Is about 120 miles. We Travelled this on our eX-
cellent donkeys IN four days, with time TO spare
| Tor brief excursions from the main highway to
objects OF special interest. The face Of the coun
try Is mountainous. save where now and then In
frequent level plains intervene. The mountain