The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1890-10-05

beautiful. The love of fine laces is some
thing which increases constantly and which
deserves encouragement, because piece OF
good lace has lasting value instead OF nnd-
ing its way to the ragbag at the emo OF
single season, like SO many OF our tasteless
because lace is to a certain e1-
tent an investment, like diamonds.
The novelties include collars with
pointed lapels coming. to the waist ana De
low for ladies of middle age: For quite
young ladies are collars with short pointed
lapels. For dressy wear for young married
ladies' are standing collars to be worn
either inside or outside the dress collar ana
supplemented by long pointed plastrons.
Cuffs to match these turn back from the
waist and are somewhat pointed on the out
side of the arm. As the usual lace set is
now arranged. it includes four pieces, the
standing collar, the piastron, and the CUTS,
which are also suitable for use on the bodice
in addition to the plastron as side piece. ),
An ornament which will be much USED
this winter, to judge from present 1ndlca-
| tions. is the lace flower or butterfly. A rose
or lily in Brussels lace is placed IN the mar
or on the bosom in room of diamond
| spray. Occasionally long trail OF BUDS
and foliage is seen draping the bodice OF
catching up tulle hounces. The buttern1es
are worn on the shoulders, in the puhngs
of skirt ruche, the gatherings OF nounce,
or wherever they are most unexpected anu
so capable of lending piquancy. Inc youne
daughter of the king of Belgium. the rim
cess Clementine, appeared at court Ine
second night of my stay i'll the Belgian cap
ital, and looking at her closely for some
distinguishing characteristic saw mourning
more noteworthy than that her simple
white crepe de Chine gown was knotted AZ
the waist by silk scarf IN the 1o a u
which was caught large lace butterfly,
Paris is tempting womanklnd with many
things pretty and some new in jewelry. Inc
| diamond is the most favored gem, ana AFTER
it come fine emeralds and sapphlres.
have seen of late splendid opals set IN mar
quise rings, surrounded by dlamonos' ~
the superstition which attaches to this most
beautiful stone seems well nigh lnsur-
mountable. Huge smoky pearls are SET en-,
circied by sapphires. The topaz is raised
| to the pinnacle of fashion, and IS mounted
as the yellow center of great daisy Win
petals of diamonds Some OF the new pms
take the fat ld-fashioned shape in gold,
engraved with design. Others are many
pointed stars within circles OF pearls. A
pretty shape is a crown with points OF pearls
and rubies. New designs are silver lizards
set with pearls, punches OF grapes IN pearls
with leaves and stems in green gold, tern
fronds set with brilliants, and miniatures OF
French beauties in round pins with tiny
pearls in the plaits of their hair and pearled
ribbons twisted about their faces for frames.
Some of the daintiest chatelaine pendants
are oval mirrors framed like writing tablets
in gold. A new bracelet ID five strings OF
pearls held together in places by diamond
studded bars. Another is five hoops of differ
emit iawels; emeralds, diamonds, rubies,
diamonds, sapphires. The newest bracelet
watch is set like round locket in gold
chain studded with rubies and diamonds.
The rings seen are either marqulse designs
or are wires set with large gems on bars
i: RS va${ no thprn
was opportunity to observe fine displays OF
corsage ornaments. A young Parislenne
wo1e a necklace of diamonds stars with
large pearl forming the middle of each, and
festoons of diamonds hanging from point
to point with pendants of immense pear
shaped pearls Another noticeable or
nament was a necklace of rose
leaves done in pierced work
in gold, lavishly set with diamonds and
having pendants of splendid emeralds
! The young Comtesse de Gontaut Biron (nee
de Lesseps) wore hair ornament OF gold
pierced work, Stimulating ribbon bow IN
front, ana diamond of great size in the
middle and hundreds of smaller stones
lending 'starlike brilliancy. 10 this she
added collarette in gold pierced work,
diamond studded and with splendid dla-
mond stars. Gold acorns with diamond
foliage make new sprays for the bodice,
only less sparkling than lilies in gold with
diamond-tipped stamens, and leaves of the
same blazing stones. Flights of swallows
or dragon flies in diamonds are brilliant
corsage decorations if not altogether novel;
equally beautiful is ribbon knotted in
loops and studded with pearls and dia-
monds.
The paniered dress advances on US slowly.
Winter costumes, to the casual observer,
are almost as straight and severe in their
draperles as tlrose of the past two or three
seasons, but it needs only little attention
to detect the signs of something quite diff
ferent to come. Dinner and reception
dresses, especially when of brocaded stutfs.
affect small fat paniers, often combined