The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-10-14
NY LADY'S CARRIAGE.
HoW FASHIONABLE WOMEN OF
GOTHAM DRESS FOR DRIVING.

Coupe - Some New Gowns tor the
street-AIiss Clymer's Approaching
Wedding and Her Trousseau.
Copyright 1897
NEW YORK, Oct. 12-Fashion begins
nth a coach and pair as surely as life be.
-ins with a wall Gentility parlance has
sIuavs divided the world into carriage
,.onie and the vulgar. The stores angle
f,r carriage trade" and if you call at
fashionable modiste's the madame pseps out
at the window before she looks at you, 20
saa if YOU have brougham in waiting. II
van have not she does not trouble herself
n unfold for your delectatioa the French
,,vsraries shrouded ia tarieton which hang
wit6il her nirfored ebony closets, but in
stead will probably remark to you, expert
enrally-fOr you might chance to be a
fortunatus in disguise-that her costumes
ora very expensive. The dell himself if he
went about on Shank's ponies would be
sniffei at by Mammonites. For these rea-
sons Won must set up carriage if you would
1o,, claims to fashion. "Adieu La voiturel"
acclaimed the adventurous Countess
SadowlsN as she snutfed out her fortune at
the gaming table.
The breast of humming bird set in a
golden crescent is an ornament l saw on
bonnet the other day, and it struck me that
il typ,fied the appearance of Our Lady of
S+vle As she reclineS in her rich, colored
draneries within the crescent of her Victoria.
In how many carriages, the cynic wonders,
il there anything more OF woman than
the feathers.
Rut when the aspirant to fashion has once
hecome a member of the giittering process
sion that rolls up and down Fifth avenue
and the park, and overawes pedestrians,
her worldly cup is still not full, for it is the
nature of the human to look ahead and lot
behind. A gnawing pain consumes her and
will never cease, but must be sopped by con-
slant drafts upon her purse. For with
Jealous eye she notes the pageant and dis
covers that to keep up with the column she
must buy a new carriage every autumn.
Fashions change in vehicles just as often as
they do in bonne s, and the coach builder
takes as much pains to keep the latest curve
and color a secret from the 'nouveau richie,
until he has supplied the exclusive set, as
milliner takes TO keep her new bonnetS for
the opening. 1t may be asked how Mrs.
Fortunatus gets rid of her last years vehi-
Gle She cannot give it TO her maid nor sell
it TO the ragma still it is managed. Very
often the manufacturer takes it in exchange
for the new one. more than suspect that
the old ones are furnished up and resOld,
though not for absolutely new at the repu-
table shops. A made over vehicle may be
Just as good for a seasons use, and many
fashionable woman buys them and takes
the excruciating chanc e Of driving proudly
out in the reprinted coach of her most init
mate enemy.
Once we Americans were very sober in
tqgta rnSnpNtino ft1rnOuta | ranOl1aot
the mild wonder with which we read of
Bastien La Pages design for the funeral
carriage at Gambetta's funeral. 1t had
low wheels streaked with silver But the
world is cosmopolitan to-day, and we can
not tell which from t'other any more, when
it comes to fashions. Our coaches grow
constantly brighter. OF late / have seen
there a landau with body of blue and
wheels of golden yellow. To know the
proper hues for the coming season will in
terest every pretender to style. They are
permanent blue with pale blue lines; ma
room lined with vermillion, and olive
Streaked with pale green. One New York
beauty has ruby colored coupe and hap.
Zen to know that it has been repaired three
times already this fall, each time little
brighter than the last. The conservative
manufacturers protest, but still it will be,
for in these matters we are fast beco ming
as 1IOAShJ dS buO pIOuCu. OuI
gowns also used to be plain and even ugly.
If you asked an American woman in those
days why she was so dowdy in her carriage
and did not wear something brig t and
pretty, the reply invai iably was: II don't
want to be taken for demi-mondaine.n
Commiseration should be extended to a
class of persons who, with millions at COM
mand, yet cannot have what they might
fancy in the way of carriage colors, or of
gowns. OF these are the families of Astors
and Vanderbilts. The fierce light that
beats upon the throne of Mammon obliges
them to deprecats attention. What aver
they do is noted and copied in exaggeration
and If they were not moderate, one shoulders
TO picture the consequences. Think you
that lady from one of these families could
20 to vaudeville if she took whim? or
could even so much as cut her nails shorter
than ordinary! Impossible. They are
placed like the Prince of Wales, or our own
Berry Wall, VINO complains that he cannot
put on an old coat when he chooses, but
must wear what the town expects to see
him in. And SO, when stating the correct
new colors in equipage, itis but right to tell
mat these lords of money choose oftenest
ollve or black. Their selection is made not
necessarily from choice, but in self-defenSe.
And SO, also, Mrs. Twombly, nee Wander
Dllt, goes out oftenest in close coupe of
DlacK, with sable liveries, clad in a black
gown and simple black fitted jacket.
-, AS to autumn styles in carriage costumes
tnere Is no shadow of doubt that New
Yorker, Mrs. Russell Harrison, has the
leao IN the possession of gown absolutely
unique IN this or any other country. The
gown In question was created by Felix OF
Larls Tor exhibition at the French fair, and
Cnere entered into competition with the
Ihoolstes' designs of the whole world. The
triumphant possessor of this confection
imported 1t through White & Howard, and
nveS now in the rapture of knowing that 1t
WIN De one of the models for the coming
season. 1t is of tan colored cloth and royale
SnS OF the same color, embroidered with gold
s snu black The skirt of cloth has no draperies
Sut Is IN small plaits about the waist. The
ro1t Is OF the royale, embroidered over
. Wilh black and gold. At each side Of
tlls 'front.' is broad, straight rever, en-
proldered also. The waist of cloth has a
maiStcoat or vest of royale, embroidered
T1u rever on each side, to match the skirt.
f Ie revers OF both skirt and waist may be
toiued forward over the embroidered front.
s SIe TeVer tapping over the other the out
oiue one ia tened at the side, thus entirely
oonceallng the embroidery and giving tne
appearance of perfectly plain cloth street
so"h' SO that the same garment serves fol
carriage and visiting dress, or for plain
street. wear. In this arrangement lies tine
novelty of the design.
"A superb French gown lust arrived
through the same importer, is of dark green
10y cloth trimmed with black astrakan
20 ss l.