St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1889-03-22
The Land Of the Montezumas
! Dressed in the Gay Garb
Of June.
"A Favored Country In Which
j Seed Time and Harvest
( Are Always Present.
Queer People and Queer Gus
/ toms Of the Singularly En-
Il traneing Republic.
Special Letter to the Globe.

deg, below zero and that temperature
was spiced with cutting wind on the
evening of February %, when l left st.
Paul. 1t was still keenly cold twenty
four hours later in st. Louis; but in an
other day, found San Antonio, Tex,
wreathed in summer garb. and the per-
fume of flowers filled the air. For two
weeks l have rambled through the re-
public of Mexico without the sight of
fire or feeling the need of it. The win
ter weather here is different from that
in California; it is not SO hot in the day
nor so cold at night. 1t is cold enough
to wear blanket on the bed when you
retire; and warm enough to go without
wraps in the shade, and not unpleasant
in the sun in the day. Yet all days are
not alike, of course.
-
1t seldom rains in Mexico between
October and May, though an occasional
light shower falls. The gardens are
about as luXuriant one time of year as
another. and every variety of fruit,
vegetable and grain produced in three
zones are here in plenty. In this fav-
ored climate seed time and harvest are
always present. The Scripturel promise
is amply fulfilled. Large fields of ripen-
ing grain move in the breeze alongside
of neWlysown crop. The soil of the
Valley of Mexico is singularly rich and
productive. After continuous cultiva-
ton since the dawn of the Christian
era, the size and quality of vege-
tables grown here cannot be equaIed
even in the black soil of
Dakota. Irrigation is not required in
the Valley of Mexico, and with 1856 days
of fructifying sunshine and ever-present
moisture. vegetables and floral prodigies
result.
The markets of the city are a revola-
ton to a citizen of the North. 1 can
think of no fruit, grain or vegetable
that cannot be found here, even this
Sunday morning, March 8, and in the
rainy and warmer season this ]uxurI-
ance is doubtless much increased.
Peaches, apricots, tomatoes, melons,
oranges, onions, cabbage, radishes, po-
'tatoes Irish and sweet, lettuce. poul-
try, fish, oysters, peas, pumpkins,
squashes, charcoal, donkeys, dogs,
babies, beans, corn, jars, pots. kettles:
baskets. and half hundred varieties of
fruits, vegetables and other articles of
diet unfamiliar to the writer. The
main market occupies an entire
block Immediately south of the
palace, and the vendors and their wares
are as closely packed as the Chinese in
their San Francisco quarters. And not
a single wheeled vehicle was engaged
sin bringing this vast aggregation of
marketing together. The backs of the
patient burro and the equally docile In
!dian bore the burden; as they have
nearly all the burdens incident to the
oil fro flo Of fhic oYfr
Wheeled vehicles are seldom seen in
the streets of the city, or anywhere in
the Republic, except carriages and
street cars. Even the travellers trunk
is usually conveyed from station to
hotel on the back of a Mexican. The
city has as fine and complete horse car
system as any city on the continent.
Almost all the lines center at the great
Plaza and diyerge thence to every point
in the city and its suburbs. Points of
interest for several miles in all di-
rectiOnS are readily and comfortably
is also admirably conducted. There are
three varieties of carriages, all drawn
by two horses, which can be hired at so
cents, 81 and $1.50, respectively, per
hour-MeXican money. The charge is
the same for one to four passengers.
*#*
The streets of the city are well paved,
and the principal ones are kept scrupu-
lousy clean. They are swept with
hand-brooms as clean as an office floor,
night and morning. The only difficulty
is with the sewerage. That once per-
fected, Mexico will be one of the health
lest, as it is one of the most attractive,
cities in the world. The climate is as
near perfect as is possible upon this
earth, land the air as pure and eXhilarat-
Minnesota. The City of Mexico is
without debt; it has the purest of
mountain water in abundance; it
abounds in small parks which, to a
Northern eye and nostril, are flower
perfumed visions in their tropical luxu-
rance; and only the completion of the
comprehensive system of sewerage
000-iS lacking to make this most de-
sirable place in which to live.
-
The arts and sciences have received
liberal and intelligent attention. The
museum is the finest on the continent,
and richest in its archaeological treas
ures. Many days can be profitably
spent by the visitor in studying this GU
riOus and instructive collection, and in
the academy of fine arts, the latter of
which was formed over 100 years
ago. Two of the saloons are crowded
with works of old Mexican paint
ers. several of them dating back
three, and many of them two, centuries.
and two other saloons, and these possess
the greater charm, are devoted to the
works of the modern Mexican school.
One of them contains those beautiful
paintings of the valley of Mexico, ''ren-
dered so faithfully, pictured so entranc-
ingly, by the renowned Valasco,"
which were exhibited at our centennial
exposition. One other soloon is given
over to originals and carries off many of
Europe's gifted artists.
Speaking of the arts, my mind natur-
ally drifts to the flower market. located
north of the mayors plaza, and adjoin-
ing on the west the great cathedral.
Centuries before COrtez conquered this
land, the inhabitants were noted for the
artistic skill with which they cut gems
and worked precious metals in the
forms of fishes, fowls and bea SITS,
and that their artistic cunning
has not deserted them is fully illus
trated by the manner in which they
manipulate and display their flowers in
this market. This most original and