New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-09-29
A RUN TO SCOTLAND.
FROM LONDON TO EDINBURGH.
PETERBOROUGH, YORK AND DURHAM oATHE-
DRALs-sEACoAsT BEAUTIES OF THE


Scotland again and never more beautiful than
now, The harvest moon is shining upon the grim
old castle. and the bagpipes are playing under ny
windows to-nig ht. It has been lovely day. Inc
train rolled out of Kings Cross Station, London,
at 10 a. m and it rolled into Waverley Station,
Edinburgh about $50 The trip by the Great
Northern Railway is surely the most interest
ing and for much of the way the pleasantest. that
can be made in England. AT first, indeed, the
scenery is not exceptionally striking but even at
first you are whirled past spots OF exceptional
historic and literary ntercst-among them the
battlefield of Barnet and Hadley, and the Oh
church and graveyard OF Hornsey, where ION
Moore buried his little daughter Barbara ana
where the venerable poet, Samuel Rogers, sleeps
the last sleep. Soon these are passed, and pres
emily, dashing through fiat country, you get d
noble view Of Peterborough Cathedral, massive,
dark, and splendid, with its graceful cone-shaIeu
pinnacles its vast square central tower, It's lofty
spire, and the three great pointed arches 'ha'
sdorn its west front This church contains the
dust of Queen Katherine, the Spanish wife OF
Henry the Eighth and here the remains OF Mary
Stuart were first Embarrassing here a long time
before her son, James I, conveyed them to West
Minister Abbey. Both these queens were ourled
by one and the same graVedlgger, uelo<meu
person, who lived TO great age.
The country is so level that the receding towers
of Peterborough remain for long time IN sight.
but soon, as the train speeds through pastures OF
clover and through fields Of green and red ana
yellow herbagc, divided by glmmerlng hedges
and diversified with red-roofed villages ana gray
church towers, the land grows billy, and long
white roads are visible stretching away like bands
of silver over the lonely hilltops. Figures
Of cleaners are SEEM now and then, scattered
Eoll harry lately
been gathered Sheep are feeding in the pas
tures and cattle are couched under ffinges of
woods The bright emerald of tie sod sparkles
with the golden yellow of the colts-foot, and
sometimes the scarlet waves of the poppy come
tumblinr into the plain like cataract OF hre.
Windmils spread their whirling sails upon the
SUBMITS round about, and over the nesting IVY
clad cottages, and the stately trees, there
are great flights of rocks. gray sky spreads
above us, family sufused with sunshine ouo
there is no glare and no heat, and often the wind
is laden with a fragrance of wild flowers ana Oh
hay.
r. is noon when we come to Grantham, where
there is Just time enough for us to see th"U
this is q flourishing city of redbrick houses ana
fine spacious streets with lofty, spired church'
and far away eastward high line OF Nils
Newark is presently reached and passed-a Dusy'
contented town, smiling to-day through the sun
shine and mist, and it fades In the distance
| remember that we are leaving to the WESTWARD
Newsstand Abbey and Annesley, and Southwell'
and Hucknel- Tankard-places memoraby asso-
ciatod with the poet Byron, and dear to the heart
of every lover of poetic literature. AT Markham
the country is exceedingly pretty, with woods
and hills over which multtudes of rocks ana
starlinrs are in full career, dark and rapid ana
garruIous About Bantry the land is fiat; and
fiat il continues to he until we have sped
considerab BILE way beyond York But in the mean
time we fash through Doncaster, an opulehO
o;,r famed for manufactures and for horse races,
standing there rosy and active amid the prlgnC
rean folds There are not many trees in this
reo;op and AS we draw near Seby-a large red
brick city upon the banks OF "A broad rlVer-itS
massive old church tower looms conspicuous un-
der smoky skies. In the outskirts OF TINS town
there are cosey houses clad with ivy, IN WINCH as
!, seems. the pilgrim might well be pleased to
linger.
Dut tbrrc is no pause and in little while mag
nilccnt York bursts upon the view, stately anu
glorious under a black sky that is lul Vi uii-
Wing clouds The Minister stands out ike noun
tain and the giant towers rear themselves III
solemn majcsty-surely the grandeSt piece Vi
church architecture in all England The brim.
.hony The meadows around the city glow IKE
ill.,, onc,alds while the harvest fields are stored
and teeming with stacks of golden gram
Great flights of startled doves people the alr,-as
white AS snow under the sable heeces OF the drlV-
iny Storm / had seen York under dlnereh'
cuIsrs but never before under sky at once 30
sombrc and so romantic.
We bear toward ThirslI now, leaving behind u.s.
westward of our track old Ripon, in the distance,
memorable for many associations and cherished
in theatrical annals as the place OF the death ana
burial of the distinguished founder of the JEFFERSON
family of actors Darlington is the next lmpor-
tant place, "a town of manufacture, conspicuous
for its tall, smoking chimneys, and eWdenty
prospcrous This is the land of stone walls anu
stone cottages-the grim precinct OF Northumper-
land The country is cultivated, but rougher
than the midands at the heart OF England, ana
the essentially diversified character OF tins small
island is once again impressed upon your minu
All through this region there are HUE "mVe'
walled houses with red roofs NJ Ferry I'LL the
scenery changes again and becomes Americah-d
macs of rocky gorges and densely wooded ravines
All trace of storm has vanished by this time, ano
when after brief interval of eager expectation
the noble towers of Durham Cathedral sweep into
the prospect, that superb monument of ancient
Sevotion together with all the dark gray shapes
AZ this beautiful ety--so magnifcently placed, III
an abrupt precipitous gorge, on both sides OF TIM
trimming river-are seen under sky of the soie
est Italian blue, dapplcd with white clouds o
drifting fleece. Durham is all too quickly passe'
fading away in a landscape sweetly meuowcd ol
= mint blue mist. Then stately rural mansion
ARE seen half hidden among great trees. "reath
~ smoke curl upward from scattered dwelling
all around the circle of the hills Each tristan
.u,on,it ,s seen TO be crowned with tower or
town fine castle springs into view just befor
pr;,Iev glances by, and we see that this is pac
., woodlands. piauant with little of the rough
moss ~ uusophistcated nature. But the seen