The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-05-01
THE FANCIES IN MANTLES.
OTHER FADs OF PRESENT FASHIONS.
Lace Forms Striking Feature OF Gowns
and Observation-Disclosures of Some Pref
~ Little wraps-Mme. Hading's
Beautiful Mod Ell In Camille"


weather frequently prevents such changes
until June roses bud.
A few years ago fashionable women be-
gan to appear out of doors ''in their fig
ure," as the French say, as soon as the
first warm days came. Whether old or
Young, thin or fat, all women seemed to
follow the same idea. 1t required very
courageous woman, no matter how chilly
by nature, 10 muffle herself in a mantle.
1t was at this time that chamois-skin
waists were introduced, which are a pro-
lection from cold without seeming to be
such. Now we are going to the contrary
extreme, and, however hot the weather or
youthful the wearer, mantle, jacket or
cane seems a necessity. An exception is
made, however, of the directoire coat,
which makes wrap of any kind look SUI
perfuous.
To have appeared in a mantle a few
years ago after the first spring-like days
would have been looked upon as the es-
sence of dowdiness. Now the new models
are so pretty and becoming that few we'll
dressed women would care to 90 without
out, especially rs the average opinion is
strengthened by the fact that they are the
correct thing.
Thin arms and poorly developed figures
are ably disguised beneath full sleeves of
lace and loose mantles Of Jet, while figures
inclined to embonpolnt find equal protec-
tiOn beneath flowing cloaks which make
less prominent the outlines of the form.
It is somewhat difficult to find becoming
garments for women no longer young, but
the models of this season present a greater
variety OF such wraps than have hitherto
been seen. In the lead are long cloaks of
cloth or silk, trimmed with silk or beauti-
ful passementeries with or without beads.
Some simpler examples are in the form of
long undraped redingotes, with wide
sleeves lined and faced on the outside with
heavy corded silk. The same silk is used
az facing on the opening at back, and for
the long lapels which reach IRON the neck
TO the bottom of the garment. Such gar
ments usually have a narrow vest in the
front. but it Is not a necessity.
Another pretty model Is made of black
corded silk, rich, and yielding to every
line of the figure. The long, pendant
sleeve-piece, distinct from the shoulder,
entirely covers the arm. 1t Is trimmed
with silk passementerie without beads;
the sides are edged with clOse-set gimp,
and fringe borders the lower edge. From
the throat the front is almost hidden by
black lace with a des en- of large dots.
This falls below the mantle in two long
ends and mingles with the draperies
Very pretty little wraps for younger la
dies are composed entirely OF beads or
lace. materials which are in great favor for
summer. A charming example is of wild
thyme green, trimmed with the finest jet.
The Jet work, entirely composed of fine
cut beads, which glisten like diamonds,
ends in the front in a large bow on the
bust. The sleeves, which are but sem
blance, there being no under piece, are
made of the same glimmeTing jet.
Another small wrap is composed en-
tirely of black silk crochet work, and NAV
be worn with or without a lining. Long cir
culars of lace, called Bruges capes, are also
worn by ultra-fashionable ladies. These
are frequently unlined, but more often are
made over some pretty shade of silk.
A beautiful model worn by Nine. Had
ing in Camille" consists of a long cloak
of filmy lace OF an exquisite pattern, lined
with reseda green silk. The garment falls
from her throat nearly to the hem OF her
train dress, and is completed with a hood
of lace lined with the same dainty green
silk
Little cloth jackets in green, beige color,
black, brown and various shades of red,
for young girls, are made in much variety
ss TO the cut in front; at the back they are
short and ut closely. Sometimes they
fasten diagonallv; sometimes they have
one rever, in others a bright waistcoat
adds variety Still others are of the Nor
folk variety, and braid-trimmed Jackets,
suggestive OF the vivandiere, are much
liked.
Street dresses with outside garments OF
the same material will always remain in
favor, and nothing is more appropriate for
street wear than the directoire and lncroy-
able styles now in vogue.
Spring dresses are marked with no as
toElshing features. Dresses of the redin-
cote variety predominant, yet there are
many draped backs among fashionable
examples. There is a tendency toward
flowing drapery even in straight dresses,
and the fullness particularly noticeable in
those OF challies and India silks.
Among many pretty India silk dresses
none Is prettier than the following one
with a marine blue ground, powdered
with white coral sprays. The skirt is quite
simple and has voluminous drapery. At
the open side a wealth of shocking is seen,
and upon full panel on the other side a
sash of empire stiffness hangs Full IN
dersleeves of white crepe are at the wrists
and full vest OF white crepe finishes the
waist
A street costume of brown cloth has a
diagonal rever OF gray cloth reaching in
an unbroken line from the throat to the
bottom of the dress. Upon it are placed
at equal intervals buttons Of the brown
cloth and clover-leaf forms in brown braid
are placed at every button. There is no
other trimming upon this simple redin-
cote, but a skirt bordered with gray cloth
Is worn beneath it, TO give the appearance
Of heaviness required.
Another dress of gray cloth has a plain
skirt, and the coat, instead Of opening over
vest, as in usual, is closed in front with
wide revers of gray velvet following the
line of the front velvet belt is sewed
In the under-arm seams and fastened IN
front with a steel buckle, which also holds
long loop and end of gray ribbon. A
small bag, also of velvet, accompanies the
dress, and a hat of gray velvet shirred
upon reeds. The latter is trimmed with
pink chrysanthemums and gray embroid-
cred lace. Lace is an important feature in
trimming this season, both in millinery
and dressmaking.
Odds and Ends Of Fashion.
The demand for fancy stones is greatly on
the increase.
Link bracelets made of graduated gold cubes
are cropping up again.
Chased silver mice, linked together by the