Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1889-01-17
nrw YORK FASHIONS.
Evening Costunes--Ways OF Making
Hair MISUNDERSTANDING Cloak \

u
broidered or beaded satin fronts are also
in much favor, this special feature being
indeed so fashionable, that ready made
fronts are an important item In the stocks
of leading merchants. Directoire coats
Of velvet, opening over brocaded fronts
are much ia vogue, and entire dresses OF
velvet are relieved by elegant silver pass
ementefes. Tho latter, however, are In
a minority compared with toilettes that
show combinations of brocsde, velvet,
Ricilienne, MORE or peau desoie, to which
touches are given by embroidery, ostrich
feathers or fur which this season, in
trudes itself everywhere. Evening dresses
for
YOUNG LADIES
are made Of English Grape In white or
evening colors, while instead of lace or
the drspery nets of last season, come silk
mulls aud Indian lawns in stripes Of
various widths aud patterns, in which
tinsel sometimes glitters with dressy
effect. Spsngled tulle is very popular,
yet not more SO than plain white OIL col.
ored tulle; the white especially, though not
exclusively, being an excellent founda.
tion for those prolonged aoral garnit1res
that are now so stylish. One tulle skirt
over'anothsr gives beautiful softness, or i'll
concealed by single skirt OF dlaphanous
material, tho silkea petticoat may oon-
tribute an attractive ehimmer. 0cca-
sionaily the outer skirt of tulle is laid in
successive tuchs ran with fo4s silk, for
more distinct outlining, and this idea,
though not particularly pretty, is CON-
mendable because giving change.
Bodioss o. velvet or satin laced in
the back are extremely tasteful with thin
skirts, and transferred from ono to an
other help to vary toileties. More durable
but extremely pretty evening dresses Tor
young girls are madeof fine quality, light.
weight wool in evening colors. Rihoon
forms the best trimming, and Irish laos
is also used, and often protusely ia finish.
Moire, satin, Sicilienno or p1au de sole
arc tasteful in combination.
WAYS OF MAKING.
While morning aud street iressss are
severs in oatline and long wsisted, after
noon costumes SAVIOR Of the oriental and
fantastic, having shorter waists, got not
so short ns evening toilettes whese empire
and directoire ideas exert greatest inii1-
ence. Ladies who make an Intelligent
study Of dress therefore, becoms'aware OF
the fact that the corset and style OF dress
should always harmoniza. This must 40
count therefore, for the extraordinary
esteem In which the Thomson glove fit
ling corsets ARE held by persons of taste.
Ladies' of different figures furthermore
find these corsets support specially de-
signed for each, since they como In long,
medium and short makes, Elegant Nav
Year costumes are fitted over those in
blue, crimson, pale pink, or other oolorei
satin, but Thomson gloya fitting eorsets
in fine satin j-ans or coutil, are equally
comfortable and graceful, OF moderate
cost. Necka OF evening dresses are cut
round or square low, pointed back and
front, heart shaped or pampkdoHr;
sleeves all lengths, from those conspiou,
Gus by absence, TO others quite covering
the arm. Skirts are longer than formerly.
Those for dancing. are without trains,
ont Otherwise daini trains are aeen to
some extent, while the long court train il
endured, on account IL Is hsadsome
ele0b.
FLORAL dARSITURxs
ore extremely popular for evening
toilettes. Down the fronts of tulle
dreeses, they lie embedded between soft
perpendicular puffings; with extended
sweep, may encircle skirts, may lie in
careless garland style, trim the necks of
bodiees, do duty in place of shoulder
knots, or as tillets, entwine tho low
dressed hair. The rich passsmsnterlas
used on velvet and sometimes Oh com.
bination costumes, have already been
alluded to; gilt oriental oolass ard crys.
tai bead psssementeries are also notice.
able, but none are SO frequently used az
the ostrich feather garnitures that are q
marked feature of the day. They ore
placed in punches, form headings to
LOUNGES, and nay soften the Transition
from one material to another or outline
corsages with very graceful result for
thin persons. Liberty is law in
HAIR DRESSING
where any style is allowable, provided
there be not too much. The psyche knot
with fillets of ribbon or flowers, oven
front frzz5s, is very popular, yet moi
more so than high arrangement with rib.
bon loops, catrich pompoD, metal OF
but stylish nevertheless, is dressing OF
fla. curls all over the top of the head,
combined with and occasionally Almos,
concesling loose twist or coil; ohate-
leine braids are revival not as ye,
largely pstr0nized, and the same can be
Haid of the Langtry coiffure. Front haii
ia often cut in short pointed bang, not
actually cuTled, but fluffy looking; the
saucer bang is without q point and also
Autfy, while the curled baby bang, more
precise in outline, is in favor ter matrons
With toques on the street, and coca
sioraliy with bonnets, the hair is won in
. tight knot extending Some distance nj
the back. Evening gloves are chiefly ir
Light tan shades with delicate stitching OF
the back, and the lengths depend Of
courGe On sleeVes. a minority OF ralt
gray or white gloves ore noticeable, but
tan ieads, perhaps because nBtching thu
tan slippers still popular. Frequently
however, tae slippers correspond With
the dress hosiery n all cases matching
the slipper. Cancels hair lined with plush
is much used for
EVENING cLoAKs,
as for example, white or pale prsef
oamel's hair cloth lined with pink plush
blue with delicate yellow, &c. The dul
reds are also popular for entire Glotl
closks or form parts of those combiua
tions noticeable. Combinations are i,
truth quite feature; velvet, sicilierpe
peau do sole, superb brocadss, plush q
cloth hre put together in ways too numer
GUS for mention; fur being the fayorit
trimming light fur on duh red or m,
DARKER oolcrs and dark fur on ligL
colors. Short wraps, usually Of brocado
are worn by some who wish to exhibit tn,
costume, but the majority prefer an en-
yeloping garment, for which the nuns a
peasant designs are most in favor, thoupl
not to the exclusion of shapes on Ia