Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-03-01
COURT EODICES.
Some May be Worn High at the Coming
Drawing-R Room.


Letter from Lady to the London Daily telegraph
1t is no doubt a matter for congratalstion
to some of those ladies whose loyal duty will
take them 20 court this month that they may
wear high bodices. For those. however. who,
on reading the official announcement from the
lord chamberlain's Office. considered that for
the future those were to be the regulation bod
ices for court costume great disappointment,
or an equal relief. is in store. for the news was
somewhat variously received In no way is the
new bodice TO take the place of the old one.
Her majesty's permission will be as neces-
sary now formerly TO alter that regu-
iation OF her court so long and so exact
ingly maintained. The difference will he thai
those who obtain this leave will be as uniformly
attired as their court-going sisters There viii
be no doubt about how far the hiChness of the
ooolce or length OF the sleeves may so without
mourning royal displeasure The matter is SET
/ tied, aud that a small portion of the neck il to
De visible and the sleeve 90 reach nearly 20 the
elbow is now happily beyond dispute. Further,
u VIII be no longer absolutely incumbent on
those who fear the consequences of low bodices
at this bleak time of the year 10 obtain a doc
tors certificate before making application TO
wear a high one.
! request to the lord chamberlain will be
| deemed sufhclcnt at all events FOR the earliest
| courts. Whether the same rule will be extended
10 the May drawing-rooms is not vet known
| AS all those VINO are would-be reformers in
court costume are well aware. no plea less than
| that OF the health of her subjects would have
had weight with her majesty in the matter OF
change m tins respect. Whatever frolics tickle
| iashion may indulge in for the outside world
her sway IN the court circle Is limited indeed
/ ihouga "eil-drcssed ladies today consider
! harmony OF color 20 be a necessity OF prouerly
/ considered costume. and that all things must
| match. the queen has never allowed the inn
/ maculate Whiteness of veil plume and gloves
| 10 De tempered with by those whom she re-
| ceNes at her drawing-rOoms. The question
| is NeNed one as white is not ALWAYS be-
coming IN broad daylight. and the effect with
/ deNcate-toned gowns Is unfortunately to make
them look soiled These. however are minor
| considerations. az once waved aside when sug-
gested 10 the queen. The subject of health on
tae other hand. was serious, and with the ut
! most care Tor II have the new bodces been
designed. The susceptible part Of the arms
| the shoulders and the chest are all properly
protected, and by means of lisse and lace a
dressy appearance NAV be impaired IL cannot
| be pretended that these are half as smart as the
| low bodice, and very rightly it has been sur
| missed that, should the wearing of high bodices
become general, as was hoped and feared. our
/ English court would be shorn of much of its
] magnifcence.
After all, when a lady attends balls aud even
! less festive functions, there are 10 be seen
! twenty low bodIces for one high one, and here
/ there Is no compelling regulation. The night
! "A
| long wait ere setting down is possible On
| drawing room days the inside OF a well-built
/ brougham Ii not such an uncomfortable place
as might be supposed. The air is heated with
| hot-water foot warmers. draught is excluded by
| competent carriage builders. and ventilation
| secured by opening an inch or two of one win
dow. once IN the palace and within hail of the
! barriers cold is not the element TO be COM
plalned o. grievance about court dress,
| based on any solid foundation. is no longer
| however. possible. Her majesty has most gra-
! clously consented TO the high bodice. with per-
mission. and has at the same time brought these
/ Dodlces under her own fixed control. so that
! bizarre effects will no longer offend the eve
during the progress OF the royal ceremony Of
| reception.
How particular the queen is in such matters
| OF detail as gloves for example. was realized
| by lady OF no less exalted rank than duch-
ess, who wore gloves of deep shade of tan 10
match her dress and was Obliged 20 send from
the palace itself for white pair. OF the two
| bodices approved" the demi-toilette is the
prettler. That seen by the queen is of silver
gray poplIn, with a folded fichu of lace aud
open heart-shaped. The other is of bronze
green velvet, the lace rufies being a pretty
cream color. The vest or stomacher is OF
gathered cream-colored satin. studded with
pearls. Minor matters, such as trimming. are
| subject To alteration AZ is simply the regula-
tlons that the collar is high az the back, and
Vet close IN. and not very high, like
the Medici collar; the sleeves also close
ana 10 the elbow, and the opening in
front very small, that are fixed and
unalterGble. 1t is, therefore. now impos-
slble 20 wear bodice which covers
a neck and shoulders not quite as shapely as
might be, and yet show a pair of faultless arms.
Ii Is a case Of ali or none. and the mere matter
| OF becomingness is no more considered than in
| the uniform Of regiment. Homemade bod
| ices viii be more difficult of attainment than
ever II permission Is sought and acquired for
! high ones to be worn. The difficulty in fitting
* lr-.alk
so that maids VINO have TO lit out delicate mis-
| tresses for early-yeaT> drawing rooms will have
! TO consider these details. aud possibly study
scientific sleeve cutting as they are not equal
| to such complicated business by ordinary meth
DDS. tor the coming court very few high bod
| ices are 50 far ordered, and il is quite likely
that the new regulation viii make little notice.
! able difference