Wichita eagle., 1889-06-16
4e aa1iea ailp Eagle: Sunday gornas guue 16 1889.
Ecrfbed.-' At sd N. they arc Up ana aboot,
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ale house or the loft Of stable. In place OF
q range or stove Is an old fashioned Dutch
oven, practically square iron box supported
on legs and connected with the chimney by
pipe. There should be no tables, chairs,
plates, knives, forks or napkins. A hot hick-
ory fire Is made in the oven and allowed 70
burn until 1t is mass Of bright enberS four
inches deep and the metal Is almost red hot
The beef, cut In cubical slabs. Is put On an
ash crate, which Is then run into the embers.
In few minutes the exterior Is converted
into a charred mass, while the interior,
though well cooked, is still blood red and full
of juice.
The cook withdraws the meat, carves it
into thick slices and lays these upon pieces OF
bread, rolls or crackers. Each chunk weighs
about half a pound and is almost meal In
itself, The company sit around on boxes,
barrels and baskets or stand waiting to be
helped and preparing the stomach for the Or
deal by using large quantities Of ale and por-
ter. The beefsteak club is a mild revival OF
animal barbarian. The delicscy OF the cook
ing is so great es to more than counternalance
this objection
The Span ards Of Manhattan Island are to
be found In the cigar district around Maiden
lane and Pearl street To people who are &C
customed to olive oil, red pepper and garlic
their restaurants are very attractive. The
prices are very reasonable, the service neat
and clean and the cooking exemplary. NO
matter what the climate where be reside, the
Castilian must have the delicacies of his Ia
tive land. These are numberless. Some are
very toothsome and worthy of being natural
lied. Good examples are beef or dried cod
fish, stewed with tomatoes, IN which have
been put dash Of garlic and Spanish onions
fried in oil. Others are large green and red
peppers, long boiled, then stuffed with force
meat and baked Still others are made
dishes, In which meats or fish, with rice and
canned red peppers, are the chief ingredients.
A curious feature Of Spanish eating is the
universal use Of sweetmeats, and especially
those made from the guava. Jellies and jams
are an essential part of every dinner, and
everywhere Is guava jelly, jam and, above
ell, marmalade. The Spaniard puts piece
Of the latter on his meat and made dishes,
mixes it with his vegetables, combines it with
bread, crackers, cheese and fruit, and then,
lest he should have sighted the dainty, eats
it alone until his stomach cries, Hold,
enough"
Worthy of comment IS the Spanish claret
served in these places. IL combines the good
qualities of both Bordeaux and Port with little
or none Of their bad. tits inexpensive, whole
come, and very rich and aromatic. Strange
to say, the Spanish restaurants, though very
popular with men, are seldom, ever, visited
by the ether sex.
While New York contains many restau-
rants that are managed and patronized by
Germans, it has but a handful where the
cuisine is purely Teutonic. The others run
TO American, English, Italian and especially
French models or else make funny combina-
tons OF these four schools. OF the few
which are German to toe core there are two
classes, one representing the peasantry and
working people and the other the more or
less well to do In the restaurants of the
former class deEcacy and pleasure are sacri-
feed to nutriment and solidity. The chief
meats are ham, pork and sausages; the vege-
little variety afforded by vegetable and other
salads In sausages and salads the German
intellect does proud work.
In a restaurant near Tompkins square the
bill Of fare gives more than thirty Of each,
end, as Its thrifty proprietor remarks, does
not half exhaust the subject Several Of
be made known to our own housewives.
These are the vegetables which are usually
eaten raw, but which make excellent food
when steamed, boiled, fried or baked. Among
these ere beet tops, oyster plant tops, turnip
tops, dandelion, celery, lettuce, escarol, chic
ory, endives, satisfy and celery root. There
is hardly one Of these but what can be pre-
pared In dozen different ways, and not one
DC ,ot hnle n he l.
ate and easy OF assimilation.
The Malays have restaurant in a board
ing house on Madison street near Catharine.
They do not show the same patriotism in
eating as do other races, but follow the rule
Of doing in Rome as do the Romans. Now and
then they make an exception and indulge in
some oriental dish. AL Of these are good In
their way; some are delightful One Wand
is young kid stuffed with yam, nuts and
raisins and roasted whole. 1t Is as delicate
as young lamb and if possible more palatable.
They cook lambs and sucking pigs In the
same manner. Another odd dish is pilau,
which is made by cutting a boiled chicken
into pieces, dipping these in batter and frying
them brown; rice is heated n the same man
ner; then when both rice and chicken are ar
ranged ON platter, q thick hot sauce tn which
curry is predominant Is poured over both.
Most Of their made dishes are hotter and
more aromatic than anything made by Span
ish chefs, and are strong with onion, garlic,
curry, red pepper, ginger, Glove, mustard
and other eastern condiments which have no
name in English. Though fond Of good foods,
the Malay Is not pleasant table companion
He prefers the knife to the fork and his naked
hand TO either. He is usually total abstain
er from alcoholic drinks and is the only one
known who deliberately uses sarsaparilla and
root beer as table beverages.
Our colored brethren, who are estimated to
number over $1,000 IN New York city, are but
fairly represented In the matter of restau-
rants. The color line is vanishing and they
eat at the same tables with the whites. Still
in their three chief quarters, Baxter Bend,
South Fifth avenue and Sixth avenue and
Twenty-dfth street, are restaurants owned
and freQuented by their race. Now and then
coon or q 'possum is served and more rarely
q wocdchuck The old southern dishes, hog
and hominy," corn pone, larded sweet pota-
toes, hoe cake, ash cake, Johnny cake, light
cake and peanut bread, are obtainable, and
are as good in Gotham as south of Mason and
Di1ous line
The Baxter street chef offers curious dish
In fishes roasted in hot wood embers. The heat
drives all the juices IN and, while charring
the skin, loosens it from the flesh. When
touched by the user, it comes OF leaving the
mea: delightfully."- clean and moist While
the negro makes good cook and waiter, he
is poor manager. he is careless, lazy and
devoid Of executive ability. His restaurants
in New York are not attractive and are not
very reuunerative
WILLIAM E s. FAIxA
Dickens and His Breastpin.
In E-,th,s a. ami isc.r,.>es-- In TIA che r,Hze