The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-06-01
rial. round hat trimmed with ivy and green

berries.
Another dress was striped in two shades
OF gobelin blue. The skirt and dress were
accordion pleated, the latter held in place
oy straight braces or bands, which
passed through loops at the waist, and had
exactly the effect of ''suspenders." The
Jacket was loose, and formed postillion at
the back, with the usual wide revers fronts
and coat sleeves mounted with cuffs to
match revers and braces, which were all in
the lighter shade of the material,
A lovely India silk was in shade of
gray, with delicate white stalky lines and
howerets covering the surface. This wa'
made with crossed front aud shirt vest and
rutiie of white China crepe. The bonnet
was an inverted saucer of large size, in
plated CHINA crepe upon lace, with butter
cups and daisies forming the crown and
dropping upon the brim
Stylish young girls are wearing the sim
piesb forms of sailor blouse waists, straight
skirts and sailor hats. In the shops there is
no choice between the blouse bodice, loose,
shapeless and gathered upon an elastic at
the waist line, and the elaborate bodice,
tucked, shirred, shocked and costing $40
oriS12 The E1glish ''man-o'- war; bodice
IS, however, different from either of these.
1t is shaped toward the belt as well as upon
the shoulders, and fitted into belt, broad,
and which holds waist and skirt ia position
and over which second belt may be worn
at pleasure.
One Of the secrets of French fitting and
OF English tailor-made gowns is this, that
they are always made upon fit, ed founda-
ton, light aud silky, if not silk, but firm.
The outside may te mounted upon this in
any form, but the perfectly cut and fitted
foundation is always there, and the fullness,
draperies and the like, which form the out
side, follow the lines, or take only such
positions as the framework permits, or
which 1t can be made to sustain. In this
country we get rid of lining as much as
possible, particularly in summer, partly be-
cause of the heat, p lrtly because silk lining
is out Of the power of persons of limited
MEANS and all others are warmer, heavier
and less agreeable The round, full bodice
in, Paris is always made upon a fitted lin
ing; here it is often-and. in bingham or
Saline, very properly-1made without any
lining at all, but it requires peculiar art to
make it fit well without lini &, and there
fore it very often does not fit with neatness
or accuracy
The average woman makes too little of
form aud too much of trimming. She over
loads bad cut and a strained, ill-ftting
dress or garment with jets and bows and
buttons and passementeries; she always has
ends flying loose, or something dropped Or
out of gear, owing to imperfect workman
ship.
SUMNER MATERIALS.
II we are to have a summer of dry heat
as anticipated all cool materials will be IN
demand, and there should be a revival of
what are always favorites with a
class OF very refined women, and
that is the pretty aud service
able linen lawns. These do not vary
much in style or price. They are always in
delicate checks, lines or figures upon white
grounds, but they are always neat, dainty,
easily made and easily worn; a perfect
afternoon dress for the country aud mex
pensige. They can be part of summer stock
for five years and then made over for the
children. Batistes are more talked about,
because they are French; but they are more
Hlmsy, less useful and have to be madeOver
silk and extensively to be attractive.
The SHOULDER scarf has been revived, but
is not yet seen very numerously. Two
ladies attractsd attention recently by walk
ing up IN Broadway in short, e red gowns
With straight waists, leg-of-mutt IN sleeves,
large bonnets drawn bags upon their arms
and shoulder, scarfs dropping upon the
back in true old style. Every item of their
costumes Is seen commonly enough, up IN
all the women you meet, but only ia in con-
gruous little parts; it was putting them all
together that made the ensemble SO striking
as to attract attention.
In london the fashionable scarf is of
black or white lace, very wide and long.
1t is worn full round the neck, widening
out at the waist, so that the long ends
nearly cover the front of the dress, or it is
draped from the mi Idle of the back across
the shoulders, and over the front of the
bodice to the belt, which is put over it.
This is a very different style of wearing
the scarf from that adopted when it was a
feature of lady's dress about eighty years
ago. Then IL had no fixed position. 1t was
light and airy touch, dependent on the
cultivated experience and natural grace OF
the wearer for its tasteful effect. 1t hung,
it hoated, it was carried under or over the
arm or shoulder and used for sentiment and
coquetry as the Spanish beauty uses the fan
and maptilla. The severely practical mode
of using it now is the reason that il
does not "take" better. We have nc
real use for it here. Ladies who purchased
wide and beautiful lace scarfs for guinea
or so shillings English money last year
have had them cut up into vests and
gathered panels, because they could see nc
/ use for them here as Independent garm ents
Now, However, they regret the loss, for the
scarf seems Likely to find its way and is
| already utilized tor sash aud shoulder
draperies, while the great cost in lace rem
ders them, of course, highly desirable.
| FABRICS AND GARMENTS OF WOOL.
There is nothing more fresh and summsry
than the thin bordered or embroidered
woolens and ittons in soft hades of ecrh
green and gobelin blue, worn in conjunc
| ton with tle bonnets or hats of open, fancy
straw lined with plated lisse in some deeper
shade or delicate contrasting color, that ap-
pears in little touches in the embroidery.
All the trimming. needed is this lining and
a small wreath of flowers or grasses. The
dress, astraight skirt, with bodice crossed,
straight skirt and belt or sash of silk or
ribbon. -..
A princess coat is a useful garment for
cool regions. 1t is of gray, terra-cotta, or
gobein blue wool lined with thin silk. 1t
| is open in front and curved in like vest to
sho@ the light or white dress front. 1t
closes at the waist with a broad band or
strap, opening from the waist line to the
foot in front, at the back aud also on the
sides. A weight should be placed at the
lower corner, to prevent them from flying
back. 1t may be made in solid material
| without lining, such as mohair, or even
pongee. But pongee has little warmth, and
it is better that the stuff should have Ger
tain stiffness, if it is not lined.
The blouse AMI plated waists which are
SO fashionably worn by the girls, afford
them an admirable opportunity for exercs-