The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-04-17
THE NEW EASTER BONNETS.
FEATuaEsoF THE SPRING MILLINERY.
Close Capotes and Jaunty Toques as Rivals
For Favor-The Round Hat OF the
Summer-A Sudden Collapse
of High Crowns.

lapsed, and are as flat as the traditional
pancake. A 'perked-up" bow, with
bunch of flowers nodding atop of it, is
not the mode, but a very fat Alsatian bow,
the loops of which droop over the side of
the bonnet, is high fashion, if it is allow
able to speak in paradoxes One of these
very new bonnets was worn by Mrs. Ella
Dietz Clymmer as she presided over the
club convention at the Madison square
theater, New York, recently. Nearly all
the other women had on their winter
bonnets, which lowered and aspired in
the late fashionable manner, and this de-
mure little bonnet of Mrs. Clymmer's was
wonderfully in contrast. 1t gave quaint
puritan look to the wearer, quite in keep
ing with the quiet, self-contained,
and perfectly simple and natural
manner with which she presided
over this body of women. The dark
brown eyes looked darker and softer, the
delicate face fairer than ever framed by
the close cOttage-bonnet, with its brocaded
ribbons of rose and green. This ribbon
made the only trimming; it was very
broad, and was arranged in fiat Alsatian
bow. the knot directly on the top, and the
loops falling close on either side. 1t was
tied demurely under a softiy-rounded
chin, and it was really question whether
the bonnet was the most becoming to the
wearer or the wearer 10 the bonnet Al
most an exact duplicate of this bonnet
was shown at one of the openings that has
already occurred in Boston. The bonnet
was an open-work straw, so light in weight
that one could easily believe that she had
nothing on her head when she wore it,
and it was in the close cottage-shape that
set close TO the head, lying fiat on the hair
In front, and having short rounded ears,
and crown straight across the back, re-
minding those who saw it of the FdnchOn
bonnet in its general effect. 1t was lined
with a gauze OF pale green and silver. and
had tiny piping OF the green just at the
edge. The ribbon of which the double
loOped Alsatian bow was made was of
green and silver, brocaded in the
favOrite laurel leaf design of
the first empire; the loops were
held by ornamental pins of silver and
pale green enamel. 1t was a delightful
bonnet, good deal such one as you see
In some of Milais' pictures of a quarter of
a century or more ago. 1t was hardly
more than a cap, but it was so pretty that
half a hundred women went wild over il,
and they didn't know all the possibilities
of 1T. either, not having had the good
fortune to see its double framing Mrs.
Clymmer's pretty face. Still. it was a
success all the same, and it will prove
very popular style for pretty, fresh-faced
women who are wise enough to know the
charm OF touch OF such sweet sim
plicity" as this. More lace, Grape and
gauze bonnets will be worn this summer
than for many previous years, and they
will be put on as early as Easter. That
festival falls so late this year that it will
be quite proper to wear very springlike
bonnets and hats. Round hats, toques
and turbans are also made from these
thin stuffs, giving all the millinery of the
season a light, airy effect that is very
pretty, and that will prove very becom-
ing to all wearers. Lace or Grape always
makes fresh young face look fresher,
and il sOftens the faces OF older women,
giving them more youthful look. Then
the bonnets are so light in weight that
they are no burden TO the wearer, and
there will not be so many bonnet head
aches as there are when the bOnnets are
heavier. Even when the bonnets are OF
straw they are very light, and are
trimmed with tulle, so that the light,
summary effect shall be kept up.
Chips, open patterned straws and plain
Milan braids are shown in white and
black, and are the stylish colors for spring
capOtes, and in many instances two colors
appear IN one bonnet, made In strips of
straw. The crown is larger than those of
last season, and is not notched at the
lower part, but goes straight across the
head the sides are very close, short and
round cornered, and the fronts are given
full effect either by the straw coronet or
by softly pulled trimmings OF tulle, repped
silk, figured laceor velvet. Strings will be
either of mauve ribbon or velvet or of
white lace; but as the warmer weather
comes on, there will be many stringless
bonnets worn In the interest of comfort.
This is sensible fashion, Tor every woman
knows how desperately uncomfortable she
may be made on hot day by the very
narrowest of silk strings, or the fiuffiest OF
lace bows while tiny velvet tie isalmost
unbearable The fronts of the stringless
bonnets are now arched at the topin mar
row curve above the forehead, which is
more graceful, and will be far more uni
versaliy becoming than the sharp
pointed brims OF last summer. The whole
bonnet is more graceful, and is not
nearly so trying to the face when worn
without the strings. Naturally enough the
first importations of millinery for the sum-
mer were largely made up of the plain and
fancy straw bonnets for general use, such
as are likely to he called for first; these
have been speedily followed by the thin
materials for making the summer bonnets
that have already been referred TO, such as
tulle, silk, muslin, Grape, gauze, figured
net and lace. The small close capote with
low trimmings, like the one already de-
scribed, will be the bonnet for spring,
with the toque for its special rival. Low
crowned round hats OF medium size will
be worn early in the season In the city
streets, while later on very wide-brimmed
hats will be adopted for country use.
Toques and round hats are being imported
more than any other style. The toque,
with pointed front and elongated crown,
is merely bonnet without strings, and is
quite a rival of the demure little capotes.
Lace toques and straw-lace toques in nearly
fiat shapes, and are sent from both Paris
and London, and are trimmed with small,
soft rosettes made of the very narrow rib
bon known as the comet" ribbon.
These rosettes, by the way. are another
salient feature of the new millinery
OF the season, being entirely novel,
and quite different from anything
that has been shown in recent years.
Another feature is the use OF beading net
or trou-trou, as the French call this sue
cesslon of holes, through which very mar
row ribbon is drawn. This will be used