Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1889-01-16
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NEW YORK FASHfSsAsssss--
EVENING cosTuMKs-wAYs OF MAKING
4 HAIR-DRKssIsG-EyRsI eLoAxs.
lFrona our female fsshion Hsporsarl
Contrast, so powerful an element ar
beauty, Ia to q marked deg.ss hrouRas
forward In the richer class of evening cos-
TUNES Dirsctoire coats of magniAcsnk
orocade, open over fronts devised In the
most opposite character, as where perpeu-
dicular Pufangs of tulle are kept in position
by narrow, milliner's folds of satin. or no
frail fabric ss lisse, is delicately adorned
by crystal beads or silken embroidery
Embroidered OF beaded satin fronts are
also in much favor, this special featurs
being indeed SO fashionable, that ready
made fronts are an important itam in bhs
stocks of leading merchants. Directoi y
coats of velvet, opening over brocsdsd
fronts are much in vogue, and entire dres-
ses OF velvet are relieved by elegant silver
passementeries. The latter, however, are
in minority compared with toilettes THAI
show combinations of brocade, velvet.
Sicilienne, moire or pedu de sole, to which
touches are given BY embroidery, ostrich
feathers or fur which, this season, intrudes
itself everywhere. Evening dresses for
| YOUNG LADIES
are made of English Grape in white or
evening colOrs, while instead Of lace or iha
drapery nets of last season, come silk
mulls and Indian lawns in stripes of varj-
GUS widths and patterns, in which tinsel
sometimes glitters with dressy effect
Spanged tulle is very popular, yet not
more so than plain white or colored tulls
the white especially, though not exclusive
ly, being an excellent foundation for those
prolonged floral garnitures that are now so
stylish One tuile skirt over another.
gives beautiful softness, or ill concealed by
single skirt of diaphanous material, the
silken petticoat may contribute an attrac-
tive simmer. Occasionally the outer skirt
OF tulle is laid in successive tucks run with
floss silk, for more distinct outlining, and
this idea, though not particularly pretty, is
eommendable because giving a change. -
Bodic9s Of velvet or satin laced in the back,
are extremely tasteful with thin skirts,
and transferred from one to another, help
1 to vary toilettes. More durable, but ex-
tremely pretty evening dresses for young
girls, are made of fine quality. light
weight wool in evening coiors. Ribbon
forms the best trimming, and Irish lace il
| also used, and often -profusely in fiuish.-s
Moire, satin, sicilenne or peGa de sole are
tasteful in combination.
WAYS OF MAKING.
While morning ard street dresses are
severe in outline and long WASTED, after
noon costumes SAVIOR of the oriental and
fantastic, having shorter waists, yet not SO
short as evening toilettes where Empire
and Directoire ideas exert greatest in
fiusnce. Ladies who make an intelligent
study Of dcess, therefore, become aware of
tbe fact that the corset and style of dress
should always harmonic. This must ac-
cnunt, therefore, for the extraordinary
esteem in which the Thomson Glove fitting
corsets are held by persons of taste. Ladies'
of different figures furthermore find these
corsets support specially designed for
each, since they come in long, medium
and short makes. Elegant New Year
costumes are fitted over those in blue,
crimson, pale pick, or other colored satin,
bnt Thomson Glove-fittirg corsets in fine
satin Jeans or coutil, are equally comfort
able and graceful, at moderate cost. Necks
of evening dresses are cut round or square,
low, pointed back and front, heart-shaped
or Ponpsdour sleeves all lsngths, from
those conspicuous by absence, to othsu
quite covering the arm. Skirts are longer
than formerly. Those for dancing, are
without traius, but otherwise demi-trains
are seen to some extent, while tbs long
court train is endured, on account Of its
handsome effect.
I FLORAL GARNITUREs
are extremely popular for evening toilettss.
Down the fronts Of tulle dresses, they lie
embedded between soft perpendicular puff
| tings with extended sweep, may encircle
skirts, may lie in careless garland style,
trim the necks of bodices, do duty in plscs
of shoulder knots, or az fllets, entwine-
the low dressed hair. The rich passemen-~
teries used on velvet and sometimes on
combination costumes, have already been
alluded to gilt oriental colOrs and crystal
| bead passementsries are also noticeable,
but none are so frequently used a. ths
ostrich feather garnitures that are marked
feature Of the day. They are placed Ia
bunches, form headings to founces, may
soften tho transition from one material to
another or outline corssges with very
graceful result for thin persons. Liberty 10
law in
| HAIR-DREssING,
where any style is allowable, provided
there be not too much. The Psyche knot,
with 6llefs of ribbon or flowers, over front
frizzes, is very popular, yet not more so
than high arrangement with ribbon loops,
ostrich pompoo, metal or precious stone
ornaments. Less popular, but stylish
nevertheless, is a dressing of fat curls all
over the top of the head, combined with
and occasionally almost concsaling loose
twist or coil; chateleine braids are revival
not as yet largely patrouizsd, and ths
same can bs said OF the Langtry coiffure.-
| Front hair is often cut in short pointed
bang, not actually curled, but fluffy look
ing; the saucer bang is without point
and also fluffy, while the curled baby
bang, more precise in outline, is in favor
| for matrons With togues on the street.
and occasionally with bonnets, the hair is
worn in tight knot extending some dis
tanos at the back. Evening gloves are
chiefly in light tan shades with delicate
stitching on the back, and the lengths de-
pend Of course on sleeves. A minority of
pale gray Or white gloves are noticeable,
bat tan leads, perhaps because matching
the tan slippers is still popular. Frequently,
however, the slippers correspond with tho
dress; hosiery in all cases, matching the
slipper. Camel's hair lined with plush is
much used for
EVENING CLoAKs,
| ss for example, white or pale green camePs
hair cloth lined with pink plush, blue with
delicate yellow, SC. The dull reds are also
popular for entire cloth cloaks, or form
parts of those Combinations noticeable
/ Combinations are, in truth, quite q feature;
velvet, Sicilienue, peau de sole, superb
brocades, plush or cloth are put together
in ways too numerous for mention; fur
being the favorite trimming-fight fur on
dull red OF the darker coiors, and dark fur
on light colors. Short wraps, usually of
brocade, are worn by some who wish to
exhibit tho costume, but the majority pre-
fer an enveloping garment, fog which the
nuns or peasant designs are most in favor,
4 though not to the exclusion of shapes on
RosAL1xp MAY.