Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-08-24


OF SUMMER AND AT THE COMMENCEMENT OF
THE AUTUMN sEAsoS-NEw MATERIALS AND
STYLES OF MAKING THEM Up.
| VANDYKE AND SANDAL are new eeru shades
THE SHADES OF GRAY now worn are absolutely
lovely.
ALL THE NEW Browns have more gold than
| red in them.
HALF SHAwLs OF WHITE MUSLIN AND LACE
are worn with hats Of shirred muslin to match.
'OR RoUGE" is the name Of a new red gold
| color with more red than yellow in il.
PURE WHITE TOILETS, prepared for autumn,
| are exquisite in their artistic simplicity
BLACK VELVET CAPEs are lined with white
| silk and trimmed with white silk passe-
| menterie.
FULL VELVET SLEEVES are feature Of silk
and wool gowns prepared for autumn trous-
seaux.
SEVERAL New AND PRETTY SHADES of lilac
and violet cashmere are shown for house
| dresses.
STUART FRILLs of costly lace falling over the
corsage are worn on many bodices slightly open
| in the neck.
! In New AUTUMN Cows there will be less use
made of goods in combination than Of handsome
| solid colors richly bordered.
MASTLEErs WITH SHORT Tors have yoke and
girdle of velvet or velvet point in the back
and some equivalent for it in front.
| VERY STRIKING PLAIDs are imported, with
| silk surface thrown up above soft wool goods,
| and many of these are in Madras colors.
LIGHT CoLoRED but warm woolens will be
worn all through the autumn until the stormy
! days of early winter impose darker tints.
The FAvoRITE RIBBON for dress garniture is
a rich gros grain, irregularly striped with satin
or else with border of satin on each edge.
The GRAY AND SILVER SHADES are strikingly
beautiful this season, and in very many cases
these tints take the precedence Of all others.
The Dull SURFACED ooze calf is now made
up in dark brown and black shoes as well as in
| tan and russell, and has a soft, luxurious APP
| pearance.
EMBROIDERY OF ALL KINDS in silk, in metal
and in beads will be one of the principal orna-
| ments for winter toilets Of all kinds, day or
evening.
FLOWER BoNSETs AND BRIMs continue in high
favor. Directoire hats of black chips are
trimmed with scarfs of black tulle and sprays
| OF pink o. lilec orchids.
The ILLUSION BoNNETs will be worn later this
season than they have been hitherto, and it 10
said that they will even be prepared for au-
tumn use.
The VENETIAN silk-warp challies designed
for demi-dress during the autumn are very
| lovely both in color and fabric and their hand
some velvet ribbon trimmings give additional
| charm.
| BY WAY OF PRESERVING the general average,
| the bodices worn with evening dress are rather
higher on the shoulders since the introduction
| of the falling firth sometimes worn with day
| dress.
| TRAVELLING CLoAKs are made Of Eiffel red,
| silver gray and Modore-brown Carmelite, with
| a monks hood at the back. The wrap is con-
fined at the waist by knotted rope Of braided
silk gimp.
SMALL, close bonnets are made Of lace edg-
| ing. which is shirred or plated in fans. Many
| of the most attractive models have peaked
| brims, low. fiat crowns and rather short
sides. Nearly of them have strings either of
lace or ribbon.
For MORNING PRoMESApE simple little cos
tune of flannel or serge is always in place.
| The lightweight fannels in pretty design and
| bright color make very becoming costumes.
The large dot seems to be the favorite design in
| these goods.
SOME BEAUTIFUL PAssEMENTERIEs are being
manufactured for winter silks. They generally
come in sets, comprising one or two revers for
| the skirt. collar or yoke for the bodice, or
deep cuffs for the sleeves, reaching from the
wrist halfway up the forearm.
The PANEL PIECES which have for several sea-
sons formed parts Of skirts are now to be re-
moved to the center of the front breadth, and are
to be called scarfs This will not hinder anybody
from using old panels for this purpose, for the
designs are almost precisely similar.
TRAVELLING DRESSES for autumn brides will
be made variously of Indiana cloth, French
camels' hair (stiI leading favorite abroad),
glace mohair, bordered English serge, and
these will be made up over silk skirts the same
color as the wooden goods.
SOME PLArDs Just imported have only two
colors, such as green and suede, Others are all
gray, some all green of many tones, and the
silken plaids that form scarfs or panels are
very gay, with bars OF bright red and yellow
crossing brown or black grounds.
DARK PuRpIlsH RED SHADES, such as dahlia
and rosewood, are largely imported in rich
silks and ribbons and in velvets for dresses and
bonnets. New names are given some Of these
colors but the shades are familiar, and are
quite different from the light reddish mahog-
ony tints.
RIBBON Is USED this season with great
prodigality. Many lovely evening dresses
composed Of tinted silk net have the entire
front formed of lengthwise rows OF ribbon run
80 closely together that one would scarcely
suspect the means by which the pretty effect
is produced.
THERE Is A GREAT RAGE for flower bonnets
and toques abroad. Some are made Of foliage
alone; for example, pale yellow-green rose
leaves overlapping each other. On evening
bonnets, sent from Paris, soft, beautiful rose
petals are likewise arranged over an airy
foundation Of pink tulle.
vIoLET-TIxrEp SILK SERGE over q kilted
skirt Of reseda faille shot with gold formed
rich and elegant O'Clock tea-gown recently
worn Gold and shaded tints In violet, reseda
and pale-brown showed delicately in the en-
broidered bands on the empire vest and petit
coat
A SrYLnH Gown for early autumn wear ID in
fine gray cloth, the bodice draped with cross-
way folds of gray silk, showing beneath .
sleeveless jacket, thickly braided with gray
silk cord, with little silver twist judiciously
introduced. The skirt Is nearly plain In front, |
but pleated fully at the back.
A NOVELTY for the coming season il ladies' |
cloth-the smoothly woven faced cloth used by |
tailors-with woven borders Of stripes along /
the selvage. In these the prevailing fancy for /
black 10 shown, two black stripes, one four /
inches broad, the other only two inches, being /
. stylish border for green, blue and rust-eolored
cloths.
A CnAaxue DAxouo Tonxr for . young
girl il made Of misty blue gauge over low |
necked bodice and full skirt OF pale blue China
silk, the gauxs draperies, in delicious folds, |
kept In place BY clusters Of creamy margueritee /
- L. A. - - AZ