The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1889-09-01
ON THE WING.
Mr.. PAGE CONTINUES HIS EURO
PEAN TRAVELS.

fNpfflal correspondence OF the lines
: We left Paris TO join Mr.. Allison at
:, Wicsbaden. where he had been for some
: time taking the hot baths for an attack
: Of rheumatism. 1t had happily yielded
10 the treatment and he wrote Us 10 Join
him and 20 by way of Strasbourg into
I SwilzeI land and then to Italy. | may
n say that he is the finest traveller in the
G world. lie never gets tired. be never
G gets blue. he never misses anything. and
he knows just what 20 see and how 10
see il. As the Rhine. with its old cas-
g ties and its romantic traditions. is one
D Of the things best worth seeing in Eu
- rope. and as Cologne Cathedral is the
finest on earth. we went 20 WIesbaden
by way Of Cologne and the
Rhine. The journey by raj
10 Cologne is a long and not very inter
esting TIP. for the scenery in eastern
france is rather mOnOtOnOus. the cOuu- !
try being fat and the only break being
the long avenues OF LOmbGrdy POI lars. /
3 which tower above the white highways /
and stretch across the landscape like /
/ high wells. The tile-rOOfed villages |
would doubtless afford much interest J
but the trains always run through the /
least picturesque parts of the towns. /
and one thus misses what would form |
the only diversion on the routes.
Among our companions was
A FINE LOOKING RUSSIAN,
who lived rot far from the Caucasus.
His passport described him as noble,
but as there are fourteen distinct grades
of mobiles ia the domlni0ns of the White
Tar. comprising nearly every prOfe.-
SION. the appclIatiOn is not very definite.
lie was. however. an exceedingly we'll
informed fellow. and we had pleasant
day together. He could not take in the
difference between the Republican
and Democratic party. He was willing
% talk of everything except Russian
politics. on this subject he was prOyOk-
ingly silent. sbrug of the
shoulders being all we could ex-
tract from hinr as 10 this Our route led
Us through northeastern France and
/ Southeastern Belgium. We stopped
/ little while at Namur. place cele
bratcd. If my recollection serves me
right. by Uncle Toby. This is hst0ri-
cal ground. The most mOmentOus bat
/ tie Of modern times was fought less
/ than two hours run TO the nOrthward.
/ 10 is all peaceful enough now. patches
OF wheat and potatoes succeeding
each other endlessly. One thing /
/ that strikes man accustomed 10 old
Virginia worm fences Is the absence Of
an fences whatsoever. In Two day r. /
/ travel. except the wires stretched along ,
on either side the tracks. and now sand ,,
tIcn close around some gentleman = ,
/ park. we did not see a fence. The mar >
TOW patches If wheat. oats, potatoes !
ard hay lay alongside each other in -,
strips some ten yards wide by one hur- !
dred long. without anything that we +,
could sec tO mark the division. BY the ,
way, l recOiloct seeing somewhere IN
ihe tiiD which | made three years ago ,
from The Hague to Berlin "a monumen. +,
NJ the man who had introduced the
culture of potatoes i'm Germany: "a .
monument which Is. / believe. unique. F,
lhe principle on which monuments are T,
erected here being rather the destguc- :
ton than the preservation Of the human .
race.
COLOGNE CATHEDRAL. b
We reached Cologne late IN the after 81
noon and went at once 10 the caihe. Il
dral. which we We ne fortunate enough 10 n
gel in. and where we were present az p
one of tLe most impressive services q
ever IS ituc-sed THE annual service of 81
tie Madeleine. have seen high mass 40 n
NUtrc Dame and at the Madeleine have 81
b, cn at the choral service in ST. Pmls. IS
and witnessed the gorgeous ritual aud Il
beard the magnificent singing in the q
Greek chapel 40 Wiesbaden. but / never n
nat at % more impressive seryic. than n
taat ON which we came UNEXPECTEDLY al
I'D ihe twilight amid the great pillars of IA
Cologne Cathedral. The vast buildiur M
was uriighted, save by the glow Of The te
evening SKY. which outlined the fine 80
windows. aud by the candles about the on
liars AID Que hight above the pulpit in "a
which the priests knelt reading, but Oh
the aislt were deusely filed with a M
crowd ~ kneeling worship II
reis, who made the response an
in strong. clear tones. and when they Iu
i0se and with one accord sang the
chants. % made he.spinai nerves Jingle. 60
10 was. as One Of the old fathers has no
sand. iiko the sound Of many waters. BE
900 not know q word of the tongue an
Employed. hut ihe spirit of wofship sn
was not subject % the shackles of Ian thl
-uaae. Fof me the spot was as sacred ihi
b. Do was to the devoItest Catholic on b
her knees. / had been there Jthree ws
years before with one whose step hallow- th'
at every place. | have seen many iOl
iledral7 and give in my hearty ad
lerance 10 the general dogma that -
hey are the finest things i'm EurOpe cen
'lt IN my humble judgment Cologne iir
lihe1lal far surpa-ses all others that the
have sceu. 10 appears to me as much clu
upeTl0f To all others in rs noble It's
'undeur az it surpassos them aux
u mere altitude. 10 is sublime. the
nd as 10 rises in It's perfect beauty yal
nd noble proportions IL seems 10 be- qui
1ng as much 90 the air as e. the earth. as
O. foundation stone was laid in 1919 lot
ud 10 was rOt completed until 1880. wO
BIZ hops and kings have during hun nel
reds of years contributed 90 It's perfec- ter
lon. Dnt it is a strange fact that the Sec
ientity O.! its original designer should An
e. lost in Tue ODscIrity OF the past nd the
lould now rest alone on mere tradi- san
on. The famous plan. or "DOnibild.r abo
atirg from 1850. was lost for q q
ng period. having been carried KEEP
Vt by yanGals. but was found after tow
ards. bali in one country and hall in hll'
bother. and is now preserved in the doq
asury. Cologne is one OF The NEST wet
telesting towns in Europe. II Is now owl
large city, having over $50. 900 inhab- Pri
ants forget how many smells Cole ful
dc -aii he discovered therc-eighty or An
b | believe they are all there. but the wol
iheIial makes amends for all. pla,
At Goes not appear unnatural that men the
ould have believed It impossible th.t INTO
imam genius alone could produce such w0r
work and should have handed down the
e legend that the architect bartered ern
s soul TO the devil IN exchange The llio
Send Is that the architect saw the plan OF Il
vision and on awakiDg. having Lost the
entered into q solemn league with -ura
t. hsnd TO give him his soul quit
i that Of the first person who and
Juid enter into the cathedral if wat
would but give him again the whe
10 and enable him to execute it. The the
hedral was completed. and all the not