The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-03-30
FASHION AND FURBEL0W
CHAT ABOUT DRESS FROM JENNY
JUNE'S PEN.

JONES FEM.
The Very Latest "Contemporaneous"
Ideas in the Way of Feminine Adorn-
acknowledgements of the Pelisse-
Hints for w orking Dress-"Fish Nets"
a Novelty in New Dress Goods-The
Queer, Quaint and Pretty in the
Latest Spring Costumes.
New York, March 29-One of the things
lacking in this country is a strong, deter
inmate influence in regard to dress; and it
is always, therefore, reflex of the latest
vyhim. caprice or idea from over the sea, in
one direction or another The idea"
whatever it may be, is eagerly seized for
lack of another and to furnish pretext or
pretense of novelty, and before it has been
put to real use by the majority, has been
iterated until every one is sickened of its
name.
This is the case with the "directoire" and
''empire" styles, which have now quite lost
their original significance and become
mixed and interchangeable, half of those
who employ the terms not knowing the diff
ference between them, and accepting the
version which comes to them in happy
ignorance of its Shortcomings. E npire and
directoire alike have settled down into a
coat with flaps and revers, which is more or
less pronounced, according to the taste OF
the wearer.
In the meantime, any number of ICON
temporaneous" ideas, so to speak, have
sprung up, and give variety t. modes, to
which monotony means death. The pretty
tucker, the spring pelisse are among these;
and the latter especially promises to divide
the honors vita the directolre costume, and
is much easier and much better adapted to
simple tastes and useful lives.
The pelisse is a whole ess in itself; but
it has lines of its own and is not so closely
cut and shaped as the princesse, or what
was formerly called the Gabrielle" dress
In fact the difference is just this, that the
princesse is an indoor gown, cut all in one,
the pelsse is an outdoor costume, cut all in
one 1t was the tailor" costume of our
great grandmother's day. was made in fine
cloth, as now, and worn with large beaver
hats and bOnnetS, with sweeping plumes
To-day it may be made very distinguished
in appeara ce or adapted to modest needs
1t is made in dark green, brown, black
fawn or mulberry lored cloth; fitted to
the waist, but with hollow plaita in the
back and small trolling" collar at the neck,
which gives impse of a shirt and tie
The front is closed and usually fastened
over on the side, applied trimming being
more appropriate to the design than in
serted vests while revers are out of place,
except as the termination of the small coat
collar.
The handsomest trimming that can be
applied to the pelsse is hand-br ling, the
de igns for which can be made original and
artistic. But of course, tine majority are
braided by machine in conventional pat
terms or not at all; and fine material silk
or Saline lined and neatly stitched and fin
ished, is preferred by refined women of
moderate income, to masses of conventional
braidlug or passementerie.
A PLAIN, " ell-made pelisse of dark green,
fann or mulberry cloth, with toque hat to
match, is an unexceptionable spring morn
ing costume, good enough for calling, and
useful for any outdoor purpose except
formal visiting, by those who make preten-
slons to fashion. One great advantage of
the pelisse is this, that it covers the gown,
or can be worn instead of it. There is
nothing patchy about Its appearance. It's
compact, convenient and always ready.
This is a feature of dress that is becoming
more and more appreciated by women.
Life is becoming too full for them to spend
one-third Of it in making petty changes,
replacing worn odds and ends, sewing up
dropped folds and carrying about the eternal
fear of something giving way with the
strain of work and daily routine.
"TREAD-MILLn GOWNS.
In making up the spring wardrobe the
importance of the indoor, the everyday
dress, should not be forgotten. The ma
jorlty of women live in the remembra ICE
Of those who know them, as they are seen
every day, in the pursuance of the "tread-
milr routine, and a good "6read-mill"
dress is of real importa ce to their peace Of
mind. while a sense of fitness to daily lee Is
adds to the stability and harmony of daily
life and character. If business takes the
xayoo m of J., -
wool or worsted: if her work is indoors
and domestic in its character, it should be
Of cotton or covered by cotton sleeves and
apron.
A wide apron, with square bib and loose
sleeves, gathered into a band, top and
bottom, SO that they will hold and protect
other sleeves, are a great saw of time
and labor for women who assist in the
doing of their own homework. They were
alw avs employed by our thrifty mott ers
and grandmothers, and there is more reason
for their use to-day, for there never was u
time when there was so much busting of
brac-a-brac and rubbing of woodwork as is
required to-day. To be sure, we do not rub
over our table tops with sweet oil aud bees
wax and polish them with "elbow grease"
as formerly, but our wood floors mus be
kept can with ammonia and uoothed by
parathne, and every panel wiped every day
as If it were made of glass.
The French" blouse waist, gathered back
and front. with skirt put into a band and
I stoned over the spring at the waist line. is
the simplest form in which to make useful
cotton dress. Tue shirring may be accom-
pllshed with strings and castings, which
draw out straight when the dress is washed
Suppose the material be a narrow stripe in
two shades of blue or brown, or Isle or
terra Gotta. The belt-straight collar and
cuffs, into which the nearly straight sleeves
are gathered, may be of silk or MORE
ribbon, matching exactly in color; if not,
OF plain cotton in the darker shade of the
two stripes
Dress flannel in plain colors makes very
useful every day dresses, but care is re-
qulred in fitting them; and they are best
made with plated skirts and Norfolk
jackets, or somesort of plated blouse waist,
Oh which there are many varieties. VERY
pretty house dresses are made of the old
fashioned mouSslin-de-laine. A design of
lightning like darts or slender, irregular
Line, showing well upon the dark grounds.
ms arrangement of color Is exactly OPP
Tosite to that Of last year, which exhibited
only dark figures, usual y large and fam
ooyant, upon light grounds, and makes
them look like foulardS
This dressy effect of the simple material
may be heightened by collar or single revers
crossed from right to left, of plain silk, to
ihatch the ground. and a sash, with made
DOW and 10 " andq of fha ear1a II tina