The national leader., 1889-02-02
FASHION NOTES.

Evening gloves should meet the
sleeves, of whatever length. In some
cases they reach quite to the shoulders.
The long "DIrectoire'' coats are
usually worn with plainly draped
skirts, but when they reveal only the
Immediate front the foundation is
made of Russell cord or alpaca IN
corresponding color. and faced only in
front with the material.
| White dresses for home wear are
even more fashionable than last season,
only they are no longer made of Wig
ogne, q rough, heavy material which
does not drape at all nicely. The fab
ric in vogue is fine white cloth, soft,
light and warm, which fits beautifully
and IS wonderfully becoming.
Elegant visiting dresses are made
with the jacket bodice opening over a
vest OF white cream or pale rose col
ored cloth, with trimming OF light
gold brandebourgs across and gold
buttons In the middle. Others are
notched out at the top and at the
basque, showing bit of gold en-
bro:dery or Of brocaded galloon, in the
Russian and Byzantine style.
Bodies are still very jaunty, with
cutaway, rounding or sharp pointed
fronts, shorter sides and sharp points
at the back and set one above another
shaped to flare a little. Collars ia
mllitaire are still in high vogue, especi-
ally at the back; for front the col
lar very usually turns with a natty
revers, which is braided, velvet faced
or otherwise decorated to match the
trimming on other portions OF the
| gown. .t-
Home and evening dresses are
made with narrow skirts, very close
fitting on the hips, and defining the fig.
ure as much as possible, while the long
trains of casaque and Princess dresses.
gathered at the top, and without
tournure or steels, except two small
ones at the top, flow in low graceful
| folds at the back. Tournures are only
worn with walking dresses to keep out
| the short skirt. and then only small
steels are used, and so as not to be de-
tected.
! This is more of fur than lace
season. tor the reason that the prevail.
ing popular fancy seizes with avidity
everything that has q Russian sugges-
tion about it. Russian styles are more
generally admired just now than are
les modes Parisienne. The Russian
redingote, a long, straight garment, is
much worn. One worn at a recent
luncheon was made of Lincoln green
broadcloth. On one side a panel was
lifted displaying skirt Of plain green
cloth, light olive in color, heavily
| worked with silver braid. The Rus
sian paletot is one Of the favorite
wraps, also the iaunty Russian jackets
braided so closely that the cloth be-
meath is barely visible, and buttoned
across, double-breasted, with ornamen'
tai frogs" which are in high popu-
larlty.
so infatuated is the fashionable
girl of to-day with Out-Of. door sports
that she hesitates to rellnqulsh them
even when the winter crispness creeps
into the air, and the costumes for
these same exercises cause her no less
concern than do the prOpOrtiOnately
elaborate gowns she wears in the draw
ing room. And the girl who takes no
more than one of these sports has
considerable designing to DO, for to be
strictly cOrrec. she must have re-
spective costume for each. The ward
lobe of many fashionable lady In.
cludes a trim fitting riding habit of
cloth, OF course, hunting costume of
dark hued corduroy, a tennis suit of
striped flannel, driving costume of
serge, with warm cloth jacket and
hood, finished off with the indispen.
sable castor gloves, and she even
singles out a special toilet for her early
! morning walk, which is usually a
striped or small checked wOolen goods,
supplemented with jaunty English
jacket and felt English walking hat.
Mrs. Cleveland has, by the way, stim-
ulated the feminine ambition to learn
how to shoot at a target. Rifle prac-
tice was one Of this much-copied
lady's favorite pastimes during her au.
tumn soiourn in the Adirondacks.
"A more simple costume was of
gray cloth and velvet. The skirt was
gathered and quite plain, with just a
flow Of gray ribbon On one side. But
the velvet jacket Is exquisite in shape
and cut, moulding the figure to per-
lection, and trimmed with beautiful
embroidery In gray silk and soutache.
The upper part of each front is cov-
cred with this embroidery, the pattern
Stimulating the fronts of a short Figaro
Jacket rounded off under the arm.
Epaulets Ct the same cover the upper
part of the sleeves, which are Of gray
cloth. The velvet jacket remains slight
ly open in front over the cloth bodice,
which forms sort of vest, buttoned
down the middle; it comes down in a
long point on each side.
Another dress is Of tan colored
cloth. The back of the skirt is slightly
draped; the side and front are arranged
in triple plaits, and each plait is orna-
mented with a peaked pattern Of black
silk braidiDg; the bodice is plain, with
tight sleeves; there is light braided
pattern on each front and at the top of
the sleeves, also on the collar and on
the wrists; full ruffle Of black crepe
Iisse zones down the front of the
bodice to the bottom of the waist.
"A pretty home dress for a young
lady is of white cloth. trimmed with
daad GOLD hraid two fnchnS vida Tho