Morning journal and courier., 1889-06-21

Of all the palaces saw, the "Beloselspi' seemed the finest. Built in the reign of the great Catherine, whose hand is found in ev. erything of real taste in Russia, decorated and furnished by the best French artists o1 the day, of whom this empress was so gene rous patron, with it's lovely Bouchers and white carved panellings, it is unique and
 fitting abode for the most charming and beautiful of princesses, the Grand Duchess Serge.
 rious mixture of splendor and unpretentious- ness. The approach from the station, through 8 series of small parks, must be lovely in summer. I was surprised to see so 1 few sentries about, and indeed, to all sp- pearsnces, the Emperor is not more guarded than the Queen at Windsor. The entrance to Gatchina, on the public road, had but one sentry. Without architectural merits, it's seven hundred rooms and endless corridors are filled with priceless Oriental China (clev- erly arranged on the walls), tapestries and art treasures. Coureurs in black and orange iveries, their caps adorned with tossing black, white and orange feathers, give a slightly barbaric appearance to the scene, which is added to by the mass of lowing at tendants, and by the two Nubians dressed in white, with turbans and scimitars, standing outside the Empress audience room. While waiting to be received one is shown into an apartment fitted up in the style of forty J6aES dkO, WILL Ol AcutOcI0 FdlQc. Further on there is large hall worthy of an old English country house, full of comforta- ble armchairs and writing tables, games and toys-- syen -spied a swing. In this hall their maiesties often dine,- even when they have guests, and after dinner the taDie- is re- moved and they pass the remainder of the evening there. This seems strange when one thinks ot the seven hundred rooms in the enormous building. But the Emperor and Empress elect to live with the greatest implicitly in the tiniest of rooms, which are rather at variance with the Emperor's tower ing frame and majestic bearing. His Majes- tvs manner is as simple as are his tastes, and, if rather shy, impresses one with con- viction of his honesty and earnestness.
 There are some curious customs at the Russian court which do not harmonize with the idea of despotic and autocratic sover- eign. To see the Czar standing while supper is going on, talking, perhaps, 70 a young officer, who remains seated all the time, is startling. But tradition is everything in this country, and as it was habit of Peter the Great, who disliked ceremony Of any kind, it is religiously kept.
 The etiquette of the Russian court Is much less rigid in some respects than it is in England or in Germany. It is not the GUS tom here to treat the members of the Impe- rial family with so much deference as in oth- CT European courts; no lady would think of
 
 would only rise when the Empress did, or when the Emperor first entered a room. The ladies, when making their obeisance, bow as an officer might, which, with the present style of dress, is even more ungrace- full than the English bob-our apology for a low ourtsey. The men, on the other hand, are very defereatisl, particularly to ladies. At a dinner, when guest is announced, the host rushes forward and kisses her hand, proceeding to introduce all the men present. It is then your duty, if stranger, to ask to be presented to every lady, and this entails calling on them all, personally, next day. Before dinner the party pass into another room, where, at table covered with every imaginable hors d'oeuvre and iqueur, they partake, standing, of the "Saeouska," as it is called-an excellent dish, but dinner in itself. The same may be said of most Rus sian dishes, which a little too substan- tial. Russians, as 8 rule, have enormous ap- petites and are very fond of good living. In old fashioned houses the guests, immediately after dinner, shake hands with the host and thank him for his hospitality. Most Russian ladies smoke cigarettes in one of the draw ing-rooms generally set apart for that pur- pose, causing continual movement, which takes off the stiffness of formal dinner party and enables people to circulate more freely. This in itself would insure a pleas ant evening; for who has not seen with de spair the only chair near triumphantly seized by bore, whom nothing but the final good night will moves
 i cannot imagine that Russian lady's life is conducive to health; little or no exercise, hot rooms and late hours, nothing in the shape of sport, are it's main features; skating would hardly be appreciated were 1t not for the present Empress, who is an adept at the art. How our usually disappointed skaters would envy them their smooth, large lakes and ice hillsi To go down one of these hills on skates for the first time gives the same delightful feeling of satisfaction and pleas ure which Is experienced at getting safely over big fence, leaving the field perhaps 6 bit behind. On the other hand, ladies in Russia have much time to educate them- selves, to read, to cultivate the finer arts, and we'll they avail themselves of it. Speak ing many languages, having read protusely, light in hand, they form the most charming society possible and act as tonic on slug gish mind accustomed to the moral and phys ical fogs of London. They dress we'll, but affect the heavy richness of well-dressed Germans Qf such can be found) rather than the graceful and airy nothings which make up Frenchwoman's dress. Black is held in abhorrence at the court, being considered ugly and unluoky, and any one venturing to wear it in the royal presence is not only looked upon with distavor, but is likely to hear of it. It is surprising, considering the monotony of the streets covered with snow, that the people should care to wear sombre colors. The s'cheery bit of red," dear to the English heart, is rarely seen. It is said that Russians are not given to intimacy, and that the foreigner never gets to know them we'll. It may be 80, but see no reason to credit them with less warmth of heart and faculty for enduring friendships than other nations possess. How strange the Russian women, so eminently fitted by nature and education to influence and help those strug- gling in the higher vacations of life, should have, seemingly, but one ambition-to efface themselves, to attract no attention, to arouse no jealousies. Yet doubt not that their in- luence is felt, but it Is not open and fearless in, Araa arioa Or Ennland