The morning news., 1889-05-29

cloth, crepe de Japan, light weight Bea-
trlce serges, Z lglish frieze and the sheer
and delicate black ring CLOTH an entire
bTeadth of which can be drawn through a
finger ring; most of these latter stuffs for
second mourning
Figured grenadines also are allowed in
second mourning and dull black silks. as
tahetas, failles and ottomans. Sole ectdt is
rlch-looklng at moderate p, ice and in
tlme one may put on black nuns yelling
with as many as ten rows of inch wide
black ribbons woven in at their own dis
tance apart.
When the mourning veil is removed from
the bonnet-by the way the new vogue of
the bat does not apply among strict people
TO mourning, bonnets being worn on all oc-
caslons except by quite young women-the
Grape bonnet may be worn without that
accessory, or black net or straw strimmed
with black ribbon substituted. 1t is at this
epoch that most of the novelties in mourn
ing millinery come in. Some of the most cost
ly bonnets for second mourning made up
this season are composed of dead black
baby ribbons laid in strips side by side to
cover the entire crown, the garnitures be-
ing ruches of the same narrow ribbon in
side the brim and rosettei and pUffS of them
on top. The baby ribbon is US strings
and the labor iavolved i'll colcocting sucn
piece of headgear is what puts its price up
enormously out Of proportion to the cost of
the simple materials employed. Second
mourning hats for young ladies are COM
posed of black net shirred over the fashion
able and picturesquely-shap wire frames
and trimmed with black ribbons, dull jetor
black winged butterflies The service
which jet is made to do is something in
stfucdYe. 1t makes sprays of every flower
under heaven to pleasure the woman who
finds herself deharred from crowning herself
with natures colorings
The first flowers to be worn other than
jet are black velvet violets which may be
assumed shortly before the expiration of
second mourning. In half mourning or
light mourning, the reign'of the violets and
lilacs, of black, and white, and gray and
black, begins. Black and white striped
silk with trimming, of black ribbon and
steel makes handsome half mourning toi-
let. So does gray silk with steel embroid-
cry, or gray brocade on black ground
combined with silver gray satia and
trimmed with black guipure.
Not many jewels are allowed in mourn
ing. In first mourning dull Jet and bog
oak are the only ornaments introduced. In
second mourning oxydized silver is per-
mitted, and in half mourning bright cut
jet, put on at ebout the same time with the
first feather On the subject of diamolds
authorities are divided. The balance of
toilet, though diamonds and jet have been
permitted this year in court mourning
abroad. Pearls are not disallowed in light
mourning, but no gold ornaments are to be
thought of.
Stockings are of silk, thread, cashmere or
floselle. In Shoes one is forbidden to wear
any of the patent or vanished or glaze
feathers Dull kid for the street, black
satin for the house if desired. Black thread
gloves are worn in frs mourning, later one
kid The handkerchief, in heavy mourn
months it is simply embroidered with black
are of black silk with black ebony handle,
tied, if liked with Grape bow. For half
mourning black laca parasols run with lilac
and lavender rib ons are displayed.
1t is not essential to put cards or note
paper into mourning and very broad black
borders are in the worst of taste.
In case of wedding the mourning must
be put aside for day.
The etiquette of mourning is one thing,
the desiraUility of such minute rules for
expressing gradations of grief another.
Many extremely sensible women do not
care to publish to strangers or casual &C
quaintancss their personal bereavements
and avoid the ostenSation of grief by wear
ing no mourning at all. White Grape
trimmed with black velvet ribbons is the
usual dress worn by some mourning
women. Civilization may advance one-day
to the point of substituting simple, incon-
spicuoUs dress for any form of mourning
regallia. ELLEN OSBORN.