Telegram-herald., 1889-05-26

nsi3s - -a1ss A. ths sd = S6s ssar
bl4ez sI5k gL4gk Al ~1irs. gFky. gigleS
49, ll.le are oftea pszt ga zld sora Tor m
dganlIs SSEio1s fsr srzac asar-Ets s1s
n.aarl4l1x Bsrisa = tea SEEKS ia kEzace,
- a4oaEas ~ EazsaA AueFicsa eas-
talns yarY. CEags f9r thrsS assllhs. Plaza
L.aez fgr Eso ahsLrns ao1 Sbz aaif nloarD-
fug 8r ExaG 1oarsaiaz tux for naonth or
80 ieagsr - seTs usa4L Fsr brother
- sister moaning = ~oFu from four -
4 months. fer a. uncle eE az saat three
sL4s1-hs = customary Ia soals l4cal1ttes. a
fss ~esks - ordinary 5iack IN ofasrs
For young caildrea Preach mourning >
tarss moatAs. TIE Enx ish mother srsfs
b .lek Tor 81 mol tlss ~ Au4srl1A tns
T. xllsa gsrioc - wh~s oas u.<hr cal
oineial. bst Ia prsetice the saaslslns II
zsisr 4rs freq 1sntly lot removed s14rt of
the -idD~ = period
For rvlsTlses u the husband esf9 aetts
requires Cns ~its - wear mourning 4afu
tas ElsEAad taxss IL or or s1s s1Suid be
governed - bEe rules = atch ~culd Apply
lad Ihs De- = snt besu Rsr D. u
a. rsc~utly y aaA LIT been I-s custom -
pgs hale ehiA1Esg lI.Ge 2.-S>- as IT, 90
rule had much more % recommend u
Than the ura IL = nog a. unr0a- mon
siznt tLis season ~ behold wee tots II
and Eoddling along the pArk walks IA
garments -on46gely funeral = llet col
oFs may De Drrferrsd a. more lu harmony
with the family grief. bat there - a5so-
latsly 10 sxelLss for greatly alJtSin< tie
dress OF nEtle girls under ID except ia
ease Of tie Loss of a parent, and even then
people u the best taste often consider that
a white dress with black stsn, or night
gray dress Win black r01oa or velvet
TRAININGS Is the nearest approach 70
mourning which 10 Is desirable 10 put on
very young child
Ia Lhe dress Of the widow some few
ehan ges are % be noted his season The
arrangement OF the veil Is somewhat
modified II IS laid in deep plaits from
the front OK Tue bonnet = fastened Oh the
top by dull jet pins or by invisible stitches
aud falls straight down behind, reach
Ing quite 10 the bottom OF the gown
The hem Is deeper than ever aud Is woven
into the material. The willows cap Is
made not infreq uontIy with the edgIng Of
white Grape. instead or the black tulle
hitherto considered ind spensable inside
the pointed fFoatlet. White Grape IS also
inserted Al neck and sleeves. For street
shape OF long circular eapes, not alto
gether unlike the COauemarra cloaks,
merely fitted To the waist BY inner belt,
fastened down At the seams and under the
plsits The material is cashmere, or black
cheviot. or some dull black wooden fabric
OF light weight for summer Wide bands
OF Grape are stitched upon the fronts and
there Is often a deep border OF Grape around
h. no, far ha
black cashmere shawl Is still in order. bu,
mantles may be cut OF any cloak or cape
shape which is not fitted TO the figure
The -tr ct dress should be of dead
black fabric. and the simpler and palmer
the better taste displayed. Women who can
afford II cover the dress entirely with Eng
lish Grape. IL has often been considered es-
sential that the widows indoor gown
should be cut with train. but except on
occasions OF ceremony common sense is
dispensing with this formality. 1t is Grape
trimmed
The range OF mourning fabrics is con-
stantly widening. Nothing will ever take
the place OF black cashmere as standard
material. The French and Indian cash
merss are equally desirable. Next on the
list come diagonal, serge, vigogne, and for
warm weather black Yelling etamine and
the dull finished bareges aud grenadines
when not figured. These are combined
with Grape for first mourning. worn with
out Grape for second mourning. Novelties
from the spring looms are cachemire roy
ale grenadine silk with a little wool in
termingled which looks like very rich
black cashmere and is especially liked
when Grape trimmed; despair" ;" the some
what ostentatiOusly dismal name OF new
black tone. rather than = fabric particu-
larly dead and intense black which ha.
been obtained in sole rOynle, regcncC and
other silk aud wool novelties; French car
melites in new and beautiful textures,
black Grape cloths. dull flashed pedu de
sole. dead lustre French pOplin, Venetian
armures repped Princess cloth, crepe de
Japan, light weight Beatrice serges, Eng