St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1889-07-27
THE BEAUTIFUL sEALsK1N.
More Stylish Than Ever-What Is
Made of 1t in London-A Visit to
Martins Factory by a Well

More Stylish Than Ever-What Is
Made of 1t in London-A Visit to
Martins Factory by a Well
Known St. Paul Man.
Special Letter to the Globe.
LONDON, July 10.-This summer
Americans are abroad in such numbers
that all the shopkeepers have made
extra displays in all lines. This is
particularly noticeable in furs, as the
shops in this line have fine window dis
plays and full stocks in sight, as in
winter. Being anxious to see what one
could do over here in buying fur gar
ment particularly a seaD. | wandered
one day through Regent. Oxford and
Bond streets, and also The Strand and
looked over and priced their garments.
The statesmen all agreed that the de-
mand for seal was greater than ever,
and that the advance Of 60 per cent
made last November would hold, and
they would probably go higher. l found
that in jackets and short garments
(Which are the leaders in favor
one must pay from $50 to $50
according to quality, or. about what
will be asked by any reliable man in
America. Perhaps there is SIS differ
ence on the average in price, but the
English garments have no style or fit,
and one bought here must be made over
in America before it will please an
American lady. Puff sleeve Jackets Of
dyed seal, with cuffs of natural seal
or Astrakhan, are shown, and many
loose front double breasts to jack cts |;
but the style that takes is the short,
tight-ftted jacket with standing collar
and no cuffs. Shoulder capeS of seal
and sable are much in favor here, and
are seen on the streets even in July
with thermometer at so deg, and it
looks very funny to see white dress
and straw hat with an accompany
ing shoulder cape Of fur. was
invited one day to 90 through
the Alaska factory, which is the
largest establishment in the world for
the dressing and dyeing of seal. The
process involves an immense amount of
labor and detail. The skins are first
washed and cleaned, then hung and
stretched on iron hoops to dry. They
are then plucked that is, the gray guard
hairs are taken out by hand with knife
The skins are then put in large iron
tanks, where they are hammered with
immense wood hammers by machinery
to soften them and make them pliable.
Next they are ''machined," process
which removes the balance of guard
hairs left by the manipulating. This
is curious process. The skin is held
tightly, fur side up, over the edge of
blunt knife. A current of air is blown
over the fur, which separates and is
held back by two sets of fine combs. A
long, sharp knife then works horizon
tally across the open fur and cuts off at
the roots the guard hairs. Now comes
the dyeing. The skin is laid fiat on a
table, fur side up, and the dye
applied in liquid state with a stiff
brush: the skin is then hung to dry in
through which heat comes from heaters
of dye, and so dyed and dried some
eight times. Now it goes to the dresser
again, who sbaves the pelt by hand, re-
moving the dye and black from the
leather and leaving an almost white
pelt. The skins are now mended, i'm
perfect places cut out and the skin
nailed ont (When wet) On board to re-
store it to shape and size (aS the dye
shrinks them some); they are then
measured and sorted and are ready to
make into garments. The coarse iron
gray hair has disappeared, and from an
ugly-looking pelt has come skin soft
and pliable and fur as rich and hand
some as velvet Some of our Minnesota
ladies will wear this winter some
of the very skins l saw prepared.
In 'small fuis" the variety is infinite,
MuffS are shown almost as large as a
beer keg, and, on the contrary, French
manufacturers are making very small
fiat muffs, with birds OF ribbon bows.
The long round Doas of bear and fox
and lynx will be much worn, and collar
pins with long fat tabs will also be
worn. Over here shoulder capes are to be
the thing. and sable and mink tails seem
to be the favorite materials this year; and
it will take long purse to buy them.
Mink seems growing in favor. but in
garments nothing is used but seal. Of
course, fur-lined garments will be much
worn. and they are shown in most elab7
crate silks and velyets, and trimmed
with sable. f, and other beautiful and
expensive furs. People can find in st.
Paul as fine fur goods as anywhere, and
can be assured that in style and fit they
are fully the equal of any foreign
make, and in price as reasonable; in
deed, / haven't found anything cheap
here this year. j. u. ii.