Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-09-22
COMMON SENSE CHAT
About New Fashions-Ma Anderson's
Dress for the Street-B Badness.
hrs. Bernard Beeres New Gowns-A PhiladeI-
phia Parlor-An inexpensive Dress.
Only Two shapes of Bonnets.
Copyrighted

stead of rehearsing all the hackneyed
items. we go over them to criticise and
select what will suit a really artistic
taste. That includes convenience, sound
wear and comfort, as well as becoming
effects. 1t does not include the pre-
tended antique, studied by ambitious
damsels, for Greek and medieval dresses
are as inartistic for the society of to-day
as a freedom cap and gown of the star
spangled banners. Fitness for its time
and purpose is the keynote of taste any
where.
Take the fashion plates in the popular
sheets. and the artist quickly discrlmln-
ates the points which RECOMMEND the
present style. The waists ares well pro-
portioned, sleeves capable of being made
convenient, the skirts full enougffB6f-b
coming drapery and clear the ground.
True, dressmakers cut skirts to brush the
street, but there is q general protest. on
the part of wearers, which wins the day
When the trailing skirt last made its adj
vent twenty years ago, women meekly
swept quarter yard of demi train over
the pavement, for vulgar men TO step On
and poke their canes through, without
trying TO evade the fashion. But now
fine dressmakeTs acknowledge that sweep
ing skirts are in style, yet advise against
them, and fine women follow their ad-
vice. The hands Of the dial have moved
forward. Nobody pretends to wear
hustle now in good society. Two springs
in the petticoat and full back breadth in
the dress give elegant relief to the figure,
but even the little silk pad is discarded
by modish dTeSseTs, though second-Ta
women cling to the relic of the big, bout
FAINT hustle. Stiff underskirts keep the
dress from clinging about the limbs, and
the founced haircloth or the cheap ma
nilia skirting, which retains its wiry
quality without starch after washing,
give that buOyant air 10 draperies which
big tOurnures never have.
The coat-shaped polOnaise in velvet or
matelasse over skirt of soft wool, is
the stylish street dress for autumn, va
ried by the much braided jacket for
shopping or running about, and the Cos
sack capes, or coachman 5 capes III three
to five overlapping folds, for those who
can wear them The artistic woman
VIII strike these capes from Use at once,
as they are the most trying thing in the
fashion As commonly worn, OF con-
parti-colored effect and cut up the figure
intolerably. OF the same color as the
coat they might be admitted for
warmth, but only for slender, fine fig
ures. A weu>drawn, clean lined pair of
shoulders in q cape looks absolutely
clumsy. The only cape that suits gen
eral style is the military, cut precisely
like that or a soldiers overcOat. This
is useful, as an additional protection.
and lends grace TO the close coat, es-
pecially with that silk lining to suit the
cloth.
The fabrics of the season are many,
but strict style chooses for coats among
velvet, corduroy, camels hair cloth,
serge and smooth faced cloth, light,
thick and plant. lady who dresses
well, but with careful outlay, does well
to choose camels hair cloth in dark green
or prune shades, chestnut or Eiffel red,
the new terra-cotta-prune or nut-brown
being most stylish. The coat has short
DirectoTie front, with plaits in the back
covering the skirt. Or it is a polouaise,
simply fitting, enveloping the entire fig
uTe, and might as well be worn without
any dress for all that is seen of the lat
ter. An economical woman viii have a
handsome coat of this style and wear out
her old dresses under ii for the street I
repeat the caution OF careful women
never to wear the waist of q good dress
with cloak, which rubs and deGaces the
bodice. bat keep a plain wool jersey to
wear under wraps. The coat is made
handsome, with velvet collar and trim
mings, and q long front of velvet is a
sensible addition, laid over the cloth,
winch it keeps from wearing. A velvet
point covering the back to the waist also
gives warmth but the velvet breadth
under the coat skirts open N the back is
out of taste. The open skirt looks and
is chilly in windy autumn, and appears
as if a lady had made a mistake II dress
ing, while rich fabric Is sure to be
crushed i'll sitting and show it. Country
drossmakers show very poor taste i'll
making cloth coats open back and front
over wool goods Of contrasting color, and
the effevt is not much better in MORE and
velvet Full velvet sleeves on a cloth
coat are inartistIc unless worn with
a velvet skirt, as sleeveless cloth
oyerdress upon velvet gown.
They are in fashion, it is true, yonng
woman. but you don't want to wear
them as they make the cloth look poor
beside them, and you can spend
your money to better advantage
1t is well enough if you can afford to
dress as Mrs. Bernard Beere does, who
is, or whose dTessmaker is, the most ad-
mirable desigF~ on the English stage
Her costume VIII be a close overdTess of
India camels hair, in indistinct chevron
and shawl weaving, of one color, or two
shades almost alike, sleeveless and open
over full velvet robe, with rich metallic
embroidered girdle, and border at throat
and hem She looks a picture in il and
sumptuOus enough for a countess while
New ork girl will spend enough on her
commonplace street dress TO have such
gown twice over What will she spend
ii in? Why in the coarse braiding and
applied trimmings which dishgure every
other dress one sees, trimmings
only fit for upholstery, not for wo-
men s figures, that 90 not add one idea
of refinement or pleasure to a dress.
Passementerie 60 be worth wearing,
costs like lace, real lace, mind, and these
WOODEN gimps and soutaches
have the stamp of Berlin and machine
work all over. Different as day from
dusk are the narrow borders and ribbons
embroidered in small Arabic lettering of
gold or strong color, to which all the
rich confused shades of the grounding
oo,,,-arCsa THE tho Rnast Of