Omaha daily bee., 1889-07-07

recently murdered Prince Rudolph OF
Austria; we saw that of the Countess OF
Pierrefond (the Empress Eugeniel, of
the late king of Spain and OF his royal
sisters, and OF many of lesser degree.
suppose am not the first chronicler
to say that Seville is most charming
city. IT beams on one who comes from
the rural districts of Spain, as Paris
beams on the early American before he
was satisfied with foreign travel. AL
though 1t has nothing to compare with
the Alhambra, or the Mosque OF Ca,
dova. Seville, still has its antiquities
Roman remains and Moorish palaces,
its grandest OF cathedrals, the beautiful
modern palace Of the Duo de Montpen-
sier (now n gray-haired old veteran,
and n thorough spaniard) and the beau
tiful Giralda Tower, enough to come to
Spain TO see; the Alcazar, now the only
home and Spanish palace OF Queen Isa-
bella, and full of the family portraits,
and which is, with its fountains, gar
dens and restored Moorish rooms, no
not the original.
We started off we'll for modern ideas
by hearing our countrywoman, Emma.
Nevada, sing sci Barbero de Sevilla,"
at the opera house. The pretty little
woman, with her hute-like voice, is
tremendous favorite here. They re-
called her sixteen times, and poured out
flowers upon her until she could not
walk across the stage. She has been
singing two months at Madrid, where
she also is an essential "furor;" had an
audience with the queen, and is great
friend Of Count Murphy, who has given
her an open seasame to all the places
here rot usually shown to visitors. l
owe much to her friendship in opening
more palaces to me.
But it was great pleasure to see the
Barber" on his native soil. Around
me sat the flower OF Andalusian beauty
and grace, the nobility of Seville.
Every woman hair was dressed with
flowers and the famous great carna-
tions, as large as double poppy, were
in every hand. This superb flower will
not grow as large anywhere rs here. A
"Caballero" sent me bouquet in which
l counted sixteen varieties.
We have very amusing incidents with
these Sevillians. / brought several
letters, and naughty Don will arrive
to make a call. We can none Of us
speak Spanish, and they speak no
French, so the courier has to
be invoked, and the high and
mighty compliments which follow on
both sides are exchanged. The don
offers us his house, his opera box, all
that is his. We accept nothing but u
permission 10 call" and perhaps he
''wonld open some DOORS"
AN IDEAL SPANISH TOWN.
owe to such visit from distin-
gulshed scholar permission to see the
| library Of Christopher Columbus, now
closed. One thing they do not do, they
! do not ask you to dinner. No one gets
| Ford, at Madrid, says he asks them to
dinner, but they never ask him. They
send you a carriage, they are polite,
| but inside their houses, no!
/ trust at Madrid we may have the
entree to some Spanish interiors so
| jealously guarded. The hotel at Sc
| Vile, Hotel de Paris, is excel
| lent. The weather is just NOW
very hot. but we easily fall into
their habits of siesta at l o'clock.
| We rise early and see the sights, return
| home and have breakfast and dine late.
| We are never tired of these pretty
houses built round a garden, at which
we get peeps through the iron lattice
| work. The shops are dark, cool cav
| erns, filed with most tempting laces,
fans and Spanish wools. There is also
beautiful pottery here. The windows
are shutterless, protected by iron graf
ings and AN awning. We are here at
the best of seasons, the spring, and we
enjoy full moon, by which we dine
late, hearing the madolin and guitar.
A moonlit night in Seville is love
song all by itself. These open square
courtyards, called patios, are surround
ed by corridors, supported by marble
pillars, with a fountain playing in the
| middle. covered in midday by an avn
| ;.x, n, ila1 fo1dn op1 IL is tho dra wi =, rr
room of the family. know of nothing
SO pretty.
TO go back hence to antiquity, Able
.Josep Yakub was the greatest builder
of his age, and in I'LL he threw a
bridge of boats across the Guadelquivir,
he repaired the Roman aqueduct and
raised the great mosque (now the
cathedral, and undergoing repairs).
To him we owe the beautiful Giralda
tower, very suggestive of the Campanile
at Florenbe. This is the great tower
where in Moorish times the muezzin
called the faithful to prayers. Now cer-
tain famous bells perform his office.
They are so powerful that even the
devil is afraid OF them, and Murillo was
fond of painting the scene where the
devil and his winds were dispersed by
the bells. Would that we had an agency
SO powerful to dispel blizzard or a
cyclone. @
1t would be a weeks work to describe
this grandest cathedral, Its wealth o.
beauty, its superb size, its endless
arches. 1t is the largest thing in the
world, apparently. did not see it te
advantage, therefore have not SO pleas
ing a remembrance of it as of its rivals
at Barcelona or Tarragona, much les!
than of the Mosque OF Cordova, but II
has two beautiful Murillos In it which
do praise, THE Guardian Angel" ant
the "St. Anthony of Padua." This sain
has been to New York, it will be re-
membered. He was cut out by one o
his own priests, sent to Mr.. Schaus, ,whC
detected whence and where he belonged
and sent him back. The restoration il
skillfully done, and it is an unrivalet
specimen OF the master.
preferred to go and rest in th'
lovely cinque cento gardens of the AL
cazar, where the beautiful Maria de Pa
dilla bathed and soo.hed the savag
temper of Pedro the Cruel, until sh
was accssed of magic. In this palace
OF the Alcazar, Charles V. was married
and at his order arose these labyrinth
of box in the style of the Italian renais
, sance, these orange groves, this thicke
| nf rosas whara