Morning journal and courier., 1889-10-26

sped along the foot of the white chalk cliffs, the roar of the sea was louder upon the great stone quays than the din of this fast mall train, as we rushed in upon old Dover town. Sorting us like sheep, we were at last hud- dled aboard the "Foam"-most appropriate name, as even alongside the docks the spume of the sea was dashed over us-ths luggage and continental mail somehow taken on, and, with great lurch from which she only re- covered to stagger in another direction, our steamer began ricochetting across the chan nel.
 You who are to come after, listen to the voice of experience and never cross from Dover to Calais save by day. It is weird experience by storm and night Through the noxious vapors could be seen, at either side of the little cabin, in tiers, the one slightly avove another, capacious hunks, each provided with leather cushion and surge covered pillow, and nearly all occupied by men and women in all imaginable atti- tudes of human suffering, or preparation against torturing experience. Over wonder were party of Americans, evidently an en- tire family, cursing everything outside of America, and struggling with each other as their physical oonvulsions increased. Be- yond were three old friars, evidently from some of the cleisters in France, beyond Amiens, sober and grave in their brown, rough dress, but ever and anon compelled to be as other humans, and bearing their naiss- rere with holy fortitude. Opposite were fighty Frenchmen, full of antics in their torture, aud Frenehwomen, graceful and pretty even in this most pitifully leveling of all ills, sea sickness. The horrible air and scenes of the cabin force you back on deck, where all are knocked about fearfully. There is no escape. All bravery, resolution, supreme will power, are of no avail. You succumb. For good hour every aspiration and ambition of life is swept away. But at last utter exhaustion comes; and then the storm which sweeps up the channel pounds new life into you the salt spray dashes into your face and revives you; and, crawling along the deck to where the four grim wheel men are, the head wheelman comforts you with the oonsolation:
 "Doan't mind 1t, mon. The best there be doant be able to stand on their legs here. about"
 Away to the right was seen the light at the French Cape of Griz Neg; and, as we began skirting the coast, here and there peeped out flashes from the ooastwise vil- lages where the late revel or vigil was being kept. Soon the pier head light at Calais glowed upon us. Over the pier, where the sea played mad havoc, was continual
 
 that which covered tho channel behind us. Here were the fantastic fishing craft, and the bellying "lghters" at one side. and on the other, as the haggard and desperately sick passengers crowded to the gaugway, rows of French porters lowing and scraping and chattsring glibly. The weird oressets Aared over the picture strangely; and a flavor of decaying salty things, of half digested cog mao and of penetrating garlic was over all.
 What din was therel With bump and a swash our steamer was finally made fast
 Then the perilous ascent to the docks, the
 keen eyed customs officers, the skirmishes
 and heavy engagements with the porters, the
 cries of tho train guards, the miserable en-
 tanglements and wild eyed sorties, and fnal-
 ly the mad haste to the different trains for
 Paris, for Austria and Germany Then the
 train moved out of the grooming docks past frowning battlements; past the quaint old rookeries of the seaport town; underneath the shadows of the great Calais lighthouse; past the out jutting roofs and under over reaching arches; until finally, with Q bump that brings you to your feet, you are within another din, where the trains arc made up for all parts of the continent. Here portera guards with gold lace and itching palms; and gems d' armes with bow legs and Quixo- tic stateliness, again hustle you; tear your tickets from you; throw your luggage after you; threaten you; comnisssrate you; whee- de you; take your pourboire and hurl you, as from . satapult, into entire compartments; whore, with all the torture demons of the night channel trip accompanying you, the ftful sleep that at last comes is not broken until, after twelve hours of Belgium night and German day, the jerky train hysterically halts at the beautiful city of Cologne.
 It is we'll for travellers passing through Go logns to know that all trains, for some in' scrutable reason, remain for nearly two hours. This gives opportunity for 2 deli. cious lunch at tho station, brief drivs through the principal streets of the old walled city, and, as the great cathedral is mol stone's throw from the railway, fine ram 1 ble about this stupendous structure. con | fess it did not All me with the awe many | profess to experience. There has been , wondrous amount of work about tho place l but that they have been at such cycles o 1 years and infinite pains in finishing the grea pile seems to betoken great laxiness rathe l than great accomplishments. This much 1 certainly true: -There is faulty proportion fl l the exterior of the structure; for, with 1t
 mighty and lofty spires, and with the inccn siderable buildings ell about the cathedral afording fine contrast, the majestic in effeo
 has been very far from reached.
 | Again on our way, the valley of the Rhtn l is spread before us, noble panorama fo nearly an hundred miles; indeed. during sl
 the distance from Cologne to Mayence ther