Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-11-03
WHAT We MUST WEAR
Shirley Dare Gives the Ladies Some
Suggestions for
CORRECT COSTUMES FOR WINTER.
Fashionable Fall Fabrics Coming in
Every Color.
THE VERY LATEST AGONY IN BANGS
WRITTEN FOR THE DISPATCH. f.,


It would be easier to say what is not to b.
worn this year than what is in style
Everyone to her taste, is the motto of tn,
season, and let us hope that everyone may
have taste, or some friend for her, enough
to be saved in becoming sense. Every
fashionable rich woman can order gown
woven especially for her, an extravagance O.
Oxford undergraduates 40 years ago. Wit
ness the bills for Tom Browns waistcoats o.
gorgeous dye. The more moderate can be
satisfied that not more than two or three
other women on the planet have gowns like
hers on, for the pattern is destroyed after q
limited number of yards are made. BY the
unlimited samples of patterns and fabric
| shown on the desk before me, it would
seem as If every Jenny and Jessamy
through the Union might choose something
distinct from every other girl in town, and
something becoming, too.
The materials in best style are the soft fin
lshed India cashmeres and cameps hair,
twills and serges, in plain goods, with many
silk and wool mixtures OF the finest sort.
fancy wools and plaids OF dark, rich, often
indistinct shading. French cashmere, woven
in the figures and soft, gorgeous colorings Of
Eastern shawls are among the most expen-
sive fabrics, doubling the cost of rich silks;
but these are the choice of the few. The
colors best worn are Burgundy reds, Java
brown, the shade of perfect roasted coffee,
grape shades, which include the deep purple
and the blue bloom of ripe clusters, bronze.
pine green, besides all the grays in sea
gull's wing. One thing is to be remarked Of
the colors now in vogue-that never since
the days of Magenta and Bismarck browns
were so many irving shades offered in one
season. The Eiffel reds, the dark blue
greens, the cinnamon browns require artistic
sense to adjust the one right shade TO each
complexion which makes the toilet fine as
an Indian embroidery, all others being hard
aud pitiless and unbecoming.
ANEW VOCATION FOR WOMEN.
By and by women of perfect taste will
find vocation in going from house to house
to tell each person in it what to wear that
suits her best 1t would be the best money
spent by most women, even in moderate cir
cumstances, if they could for an additional
S5 on the cost OF their wardrobes each sea-
son secure the ideas of person of infallible
taste to tell them just what to wear, in a
ladylike way. The trouble with most of the
so-called ''artist designers" is that they let
their Greek or medieval ideas run away
with them. Their chiffons and chatelaine
robes fit neither climate nor duties of the
times, and are dramatic rather than ar
tlstic, 30 that commonsense keeps shy Of
them.
The new fannels, plaids and cloths are pe-
culiar in felt finish, dull and fine without
perceptible threads. Most wearers will wisely
prefer the smooth cloth finish, which wears
best. True broadcloths, glossy and fine, are
among the higher priced wool fabrics in the
darkest shades. These and the Amazon
cloths of finest twill are about So yard, 81
inches wide. The only trouble with such
gowns is that they last too many years, and.
like old houses and upholstering, gather a
smell of wear, with all the care taken of
them. Heavy gowns and cloaks want to be
kept in airy closets with plenty of cedar
chips and balsam fir or Vitivert to counter
act the woolen odor. Camel's hair cloth at
So is more wiry than anything of the kind.
The chuddah cloth is lighter weight, and
varies from 81 80 to 81 80 in price, with
a difference of four inches in width
There is pretty range of
suitings at 81 25 yard. double width,
which seems the limit even good dressers
usually care to pay for wool dresses. For
this price one may have nice henrietta
cloth. winter weight or fine brocaded
wool in self color, delicately woven on
thibet ground, which will wear well, or
equally fine armure, tricot or serge finish
in softly draping cloth of substance. OF
this price are the best plaids in dull rich
shades, which draped on the bias as they
are to be worn, offer instead of striking
effects, such perfect blending of late autum-
nal colors as no sunlight can ever accuse of |
being startling or even gay. A two-inch |
plaid of Java brown is crossed by an inch |
of hunfaru1 oroap rvorn,ad h. g.
threads of the Eiffel red, just such shades as |
one comes upon in hooks of November |
woods among brown leaves and dull red |
lights, and cedar's rusty greenness.
AN ARTISTIC COMBINATION.
OF similar tone is a grave, mist-dark blue, |
crossed by the darkest brown, like tree bark, |
shot with a thread or two of russet, and |
nossv blending of darkest bronze and ser |
pent green. For those who love red, and |
would wear it artistically, dress that might
warm wintry dav has plain block of the
inest Eiffel shade, terra Gotta with more
crimson and life than the old shades, barred
oy blue-black, interviewer with the red, and
Ititches of blue-gray, combination learned |
rom the choicest ceramic art. A woman of |
almost any age could wear these plaids COM
oined with plain wool of the graver shade.
Che gayer plaids In marine crossed with
,ronze, russet, gold and red, or fancies on
he Stuart tartan, are distinctly faithful.
AT 81 yard are some soft substantial
abrics, which m ght be styled faucy woven
hibets, as they feel like that iavorite old
abric, in black and colors, in tape stripes
md broken stripes OF alternate serge and
ep, or armure and rep weaving. A most
desirable choice for a quiet gown is a
ilk and wool in black and white thread
mixture, lustrous but subdued, at 81 yard,
which, with side pleats or panel of black
rocade, touched with gold and gray, rough
lush wraps of black gray, with collar of
lack feathers, and little black and gold
onnet, would make stylish toilet at mod
rate cost
Beside these quiet and always desirable
5brics, the novelties Of the season, not in
ended 10 outlast it, show pattern dresses in
arrot colors, pine green cloth with figure
nd border of poppy red, and the same in
oppery yellow, red cloth with canvas bor-
er of marine blue and copper threads, or
'ine puppies with coppery red and russet,
yhich somehow look intended for landscape
feet, and which buyers for profit will con- !
rol themselves with admiring on others. !
t is the penalty of being a rich woman ;
ometimes that one will wear such gowns.
It sight the novelty recommends them-to
nose who like such things. With plenty
money in ones pocket. one buys an Eiffel
ed cloth with modest pattern of plush
comics in brighter red, and having bought
J it isn't the thing to give away to ones
laid or poor relation, the dress is made.
eing made, it is solemn duty or an in ,
Vitable fatality to wear it, in the eyes Of
ltiric staring world. Such dress is
lough to give one an indigestion.
Purple is said to be the choice color, speci-
Ily in grape and raisln shades, which are !
Lactly what the names imply. But, to be !
little vulgar about it, there is an evident
tempt to paint the town red, In accessories
toilet at least.
CRIMSON SHOES
A E-o.ob ,,,ol-a- 6Il. lie ,-;rdo-- ,v;kh | I