The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1889-05-16
IN THE GANGEAN WATERS.
Out of the Surf of Vizagapatam-Th Vel
low HOOgly-A City of Plaoes-Scenes aud
Wonders in the Indian Capital.
ESPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE

w" HOoSl1-AOl ty OF flhCeb SCenoh huO
: Wonders in the Indian Capital.
ESPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE
CALCUTTA, India.-As great a diver
sity is presented to the sea-farer in the
conditions Of the watery element, on
which his safety depends, as is revealed
to the traveller in the contrast of hills
aud valleys, and of mountains and
plants. The sea, as modified by the cur.
rents, the winds. the trend of the shores,
the beaches, the surf, the shadows, the
island and the mouths of the continen-
tai rivers, is an ever changing element
to which the navigator must adjust his
ship and by which his movements must
be regulated. In the choppy waters, in
the heavy surf, in the rolling breakers
and in the sluggish channels his great
craft is at best mere plaything, and is
tossed about or allowed TO drift idly
along pretty much as though it were of
no account.
In the surf of Vizlgapatam, port of
considerable size and historic note, on
the Indian coast below Calcutta, an or.
binary ships boat could not live to reach
shore. Between the land and the an
chorage for vessels interYenes a bar,
over which the sea rolls in breakers that
are really appalling to contemplate.
The natives, however, make the passage
back and forth in their surf boats with
safety. The boats are built with very
high gunwales, the passengers and crew
sitting on seats near the top. The sight
is a startling one, for the boats appear
top heavy, especially with the occupants
so high in the air, and those unfamiliar
| with than hanip 70 ta,AnHnr hat
thing is not swallowed up in the waves
They are so well balasted and 90 care
fully handled, that they go over the bar
without much difficulty or danger.
The sensation on board is somew ha /
thrilling, and one finds that he has reach
ed a mental sta'e of moral certainty that
the craft will never reach shore, but de-
spite his fears he has to learn that a
boat Is very rarely capsizsd. Another
craft, more primitive IN its construction,
Is used by the natives in navigating the
surf, made in the form of raft of four
or five logs dashed together side by side,
on which the boatmen stand and direct
its course with paddles. At times their
craft seems to he standing on end, and
in meeting a breaker is completely sub
merged, the water coming nearly to the
waists of the men who are not at all dis
commodt d or alarmed. If by the re-
mostest chance a native is swept off the
raft, he simply swims back again, picks
up his oar and resumes business, with
out even stopping to dry his clothes, for
he wears nothing worth mentioning to
to get wet. 1t is needless to say that this
craft failed to commend itself to our
party, for not one of our number fancied
for a moment that he could stick to a
log raft as well as naked native boat
man, and besides he didn't care to go
ashore dressed lust in that way.
From the heavey surf, rolling upon
the eastern shores of India, the naviga-
tor passed into the waters OF the Ganges,
the greatest of Asiatic rivers, whose
delta borders on the sea some two hun
bred miles or more, forming a low coast
I and numerous shallow and shifting
channels. The largest and most naviga-
BILE OF these many estuaries is known as
the Hoogly river, rapid and muddy
stream, through which ship must pass
to reach the city of Calcutta, situated
eighty miles from the sea. The bars and
shoals imperil navigation, and make
necessary an extensive and competent
system of pilOtagc for vessels that enter
these waters. AT the mouth of The river
pilot boards the ship and directs her
course. He is pompous and impor-
tant parsonage, and brings with him
trunk, coat, servant, and an appren-
tice who acts as leadsman and who serves
five or six years in his subordin ate
capacity. AS class the pilots are pros
porous, and demand every consideration.
hn ItnD to mr. nh Ia
below the city opposite the gate of Fort
William, large and well equipped for
tress, ga-risoned by European and ma
tive soldiers with hundreds of guns and
an extensive armory, that stand guard
at the southern approach of the city,
where her salute was given and the
stares and stripes were flOated for several
days. About here was vast amount of
shipping among which were a few
American sailing vessels On the left
bank of the river, in the vicinity of the
fort, is large open space, without build.
ings of any kind. called the MADAM. II
consists of a level, grass covered plot,
and contains race course, On one side
is the Eden Garden, a magnificent pub
lie park, adjoining which are the beauti.
full grounds and palace of tie Viceroy of
India. On the northern and eastern
sides Of the Madam is a broad street and
fine drive way several miles in length,
called the Esplanda. along which are the
residences of the English people. The
city, in its native boundary, lies TO the
north, with nearly million population,
Across the river are scattered many In
dian villages, that commonly cluster on
the outskirts of an oriental city. The
river has a width of a mile or more, and
the passage across is made by bridge
of boats, consisting of large hat-bottom
ed baTges secured side by side, one or
more of which may be swung out Of the
way to permit vessel to pass.
As seen from the river the city pre-
sents striking appearances. Many
magnificent buildings rise up from the
water front, and have given to Calcutta
the name of the City of Palaces, The
government offices and European resi-
dences are modern structures, with beau
,iful surroundings. The Post Office, a
fine granite building, occupies the site
of the Infamous Black Hole of 1855 in
which, it will be remembered, one hun
bred and forty-six men we're thrown, as
prisoners in room eighteen feet square,
and from which in the morning only
twenty-three were taken out alive. The
theaters, clubs aud public houses are of
a substantial kind, In addition to the
parks and promenades, with which the
CITY abounds, is a Geological Garden, |
which contains specimens of most of the |
animals of India, including the famous
man-eating tiger "a noble looking animal,
whose history in the wild jungles bears |
- 81 kas. l..
fell victims to his rapacity.
The old city is without special interest
in its outward look. In our rambles |
through Its streets, oriental scenes in |
shops, bazaars and huts present them
selves, in which dirt and Incidence play
an important part. Near the river are
the burning ghauts, in which the crema-
ton of human bodies is always in pro-
gress. Here the bodies Of faithful Hin
docs are borne. placed upon pyres and
consumed by fire, in all the form and
of their dark religion,
bodies of drowned natives &C.
casionally drift past the ship, for the
Jealous Hindoo thinks he best pleases
he gods by drowning himself and child
rem in the sacred Ganges, OF late years
however, by reason of government in
reference, there is seen but little of such
revolving sights as were once common
enough, when it became a regular duty
On ships at anchor in the river to clear
away the dead bodies that were entang-
ed in the anchor chains.
On the outskirts of the city may be
,een the beautiful, palatial home of the
,x-king of Dude, the capital of whose
was Lucknow, few hundred
miles in the interior, who was removed
rom his throne by the English i'm 1884