New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-03-10
SPRING FASHIONS.
LATEST NOTES ON GOWNS. WRAPS AND
BONNETS.


m. .ona.rcv NJ ALL STYLES In dress Is to give
| height 10 the figure During the Dtrectoire period
| fashion Attempted TO make all women tall and TO
endow them as far as dress couln 40 SO win htno'
sIruous grace such styles these met with
| popular favor as they were q protest against the
plump shepherdess fashions which were aaopteo py
Marie AntoInette. and the ladies Of her court inc
classic figure IS draped in easy flowing lines and is
aIuavs natural Tho Dircctore figure Is stihened
With haebones and artificial In its make up, ana the
straight lines Of the drapery are pronounced ana are
ornamened with plaque-llke buttons, hnges, poruer
nrs pIeatings and other witcheries OF the French
drosgmaker There is no genuine simplicity In this
afectation Of simplicity.
The fancy for straight lines In dress Is now at
| b,cb tide Even wraps for spring shown In long
qarments which cover the figure and DO not maze
break IN the effect as the shorter jacket or coat
does One thing seems TO be accepted ON al suoS'
tho day of the silk wrap has gone oy TOT inc Hnc'
All outside garments shown for sprinB sro VI 0iotH
richly embroidered or braided IN seuoolor OF oiScA
Fawn silvergray and other so-eaued naturai snsuo'
Of cloth find special favor this season Cameis-halr
i,he and sroootb faced cloths comprise the majority
Of the fabrics used Tho long are usually ioose
in front and fitted 10 tho figure at the back the Con
nemara cloak Is suggested rather than copied IN tho
long wrap fitted to tho figure at the back ana loose
| In front falling from yoke. All sleeves IN outsioe
| wraps show tendency to expansion in angel wings
|
| wearer or in long pointed sleeves
| Tho short Jackets and wraps, which VIII probably
| be still chosen by predetermined women when
wrap for general is sought, arc OF cloth' en-
broidered in braid finished straight around the hips
with very little or trimming except sttchlngs Old
| the edge Only few jackets arc shown this season
with vests and these have vests In CONTRAST
| ing color. Tho fayorIte Iackot for young
ladies is sailor coat with loose "reefng'
front low sailor collar gilt buttons, and black SILK
| sailor tie These jackets are shown In dark Engisn
navy blue and other cOlOrs. There are also many
Jackets Of white cloth finished with trimmings on gay
| Persian embroidery Cloth mantas In simple shapes
arc found with trimmings Of braid In SELF color ana
of the finest cord fringe. As soon Is summer comes
| thero is little doubt that lace wraps VIII DO worn III
tho oldtme Spanish mantLa shape, and In long dresS
wraps that entirely tho gown OF tho wearer.
| Tho long wraps arc mado up over black saun anu
| In combination with black satin brocades. charm
ing model for long lace wrap is fitted to the figure
| In the back and loose in front, being peaea 70
| YOKE OF lace folds in Connemsra fashion. In other
lace wraps the silk lining OF broeaded SATIN, winch
e used to form the long sleovo uncovered by laoe
The reign Of tho small bonnet continues. 1t VIII
| no doubt DO supreme for all dress occasions BLACK
lace hats have lost mono OF their popularity, OUT
those shown this season moro severe in their SIM
plicity then those Of last summer. They arc uny,
| siu,plo oapo.os shlrrod on gold wires or run with
narrow satin or gros grain ribbon In number wath'
and trimmed with crushed roses or any ouher mower
| the wearor may select; with very full close TO
settles Of the nSrroweSt ribbon In two or three con-
| trasuns oolors. charming lttuo eapoto OF black
lace Is shIrred N close puffs open frame and
| wound around the crown with tho thornod stem OF a
| rcse vino with close buds and leaves. Under the
brIm wreath Of ml1blowu crushed roses rests
on tho hair Of tho wearor oonhet
OF tho palest green Grape Is trimmed with tiny white
blossoms, and bound with dark green velvet. There
| ns
] shirrod on an open frame, making bonnet that Is
| sheer enough 10 show tho hair through. Such bon
nets arc trimmed with ned peoples, wheat, or some
| Wild flower or left quito plain with no trimming out
full rosettes Of narrow ribbon. Lace or net strings
finish such bonnots as those described, and run
through the centre with three or four rows OF the
narrow ribbon such as Is used for rosettes. There
| are many flower and leaf bonnctg, composed OF hne
| blossoms like violets, forgetmenots; or OF roso
| leaves or wheat cars. These may compose the whole
bonnet but usually form the crown only, the brm
being composed Of net Grape, or some sheer material
With velvet Insects Of various kinds arc found on
the new French bonnets butterflies hover among the
aowers bees dragon-hies and ugly spiders arc again
| IL mode 1t seems TO DO conceded that bonnets
made OF sheer material will be tho daintlest choice
and that such bonnets win be worn as early as Easter
much earlier than they have been heretofore The
Dreoore poke bonnets which project out over the foo
head and pquant and becoming TO certain fair youn
|
tremey fat hats In which the crown is crushed down
TO nearly level with tho brim viii find favor with
those who select extreme styles
BOnnets of nno Milan straw and of chip in darn
eolors viii DO tho standard choice for travelling bon
nets and for general wear in city streets Young
ladies will low-erowned English turbans Of
black straw OF color 10 match their street
suits Of soit-toned wool Tho projecting brimmed.
low-crowned hat will also DO again worn by those
| III Iap hate
Of chip, leghorn and fancy strawS, trInmed with
scarfs OF net and garlands of flowers, again ex
hbited on the mlliners show tables. They chosen
for driving and for wear with morning costumes al
watering places, but not considered suitable for
city streets
Tho black silk stocking continues 10 DO tho first
choice for all occasions. There is no tendency ye
toward any change although for drcssy wear stock
Ing Is often chosen to match the slipper, and with
a slipper of gray suede kid gray stocking Is worn
and with tan-oolored leather slippers tho stocking IL
t9n-ooiored On tho merchants counter are shown
slk stockings arc shown in black and leather coios Il
sodas sas d 5rSs g. s. but S1S
net Gy 3. Is they ERE so Ss IN
to pay 90 and obtain stocking that will give
thoroughly satisfactory wear Ribbed stockings II
the open Richeleu rib arc like tho slippers for sum
mer afternoons. The finest silk stockings elmos
sheer lace. but though very dainty too cob
weblike in quality 10 DO durable Plated silk stock
ings should not be despsed because they contain
mixture Of cotton They are, in fact cotton stock
Ing, dyed with stainless dyo and finished with sill
% moan am sSnss 70 sos sSod S 81 @
Blk than to purchase pure siks stocking, put II
rods p4cds e Of Sosy @ Somewhat Uf S
than they have been but there has undoubtedly beer
sacrifice OF quality 10 meet the demand for lowe
, THANKS are due to Messrs Lord a Taylor, Aitken
Son d Co., and Arnold, Constable Co.
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| wun non THE nPEg9TEIRi