, 1889-05-09
WHAT ARE TRUFFLES?
SOMETHING ABOUT THE mUSH-
ROOMS UNDERGROUND COUSIN.

SSAeA 49," ~ 49, - ~
pie who have enjoyed these culinary
daiuties arc aware Of the manner in
which they grow or the circumstances In
which they are obtained. Others, again,
who nave perchance never encountered
trufIlcs or met with them in the bill of
fare or upon the menu of the dinner
table-for they are not sufficiently plenti-
full to be a popular article of diet-wil
have but a confused idea as to what de
nomination they belong, such confusion
being heightened by reason of the term
catching or hunting" being used TO
denote the means by which they are OBJ
tanned. 1t is, therefore, not unnecessary
to explain that truffles are underground
fungi, those which are the subject of
commerce belonging to the genus "tuber,"
whilst others which bear the name are
of related though different genera. In
England they were formerly known. as
'trubbcs," both names being doubtless
derived from the Latin terra tuber.
They are somewhat oblong or globose,
and vary in weight from q couple of
ounces TO several pounds, according to
the species, locality and the circum-
stances in which they are grown. They
vary somewhat in color; somea are white,
but generally they are of n black or dark
brown color, and of n rough exterior,
the skin being thickly covered with wart-
like protuberances. When cut through
with n knife, they present n different APP
p~earance from that of any other fungus.
Veins traverse the mass in all directions,
giving n marblcd character that is n dis
t~inctivo feature of the truffle. When
closely examined, minute sacs will be
noticed in the veins. These contain
spores, which arc covered with spines.
DOGS As TRUFFLE HUNTERS.
No much is known of tho early de-
velopment of the truffle, owing princi-
pally to its popularity of growing under
ground, where 1t Is free from observa-
ton; but when found In tho mature
state, in which they are used for food,
they arc altogether free from attach
ment, either to the ground or TO any
other body. They arc commonly, if not
invariably, found In woods, the pres
cnce of oak or beech trees appearing to
favor their growth. From this fact it
has been inferred that they are of a para
sitical nature, and that ut some stage of
their existence they derive their nutri-
AAphl Allo lObAn VI llttb. Light
calcarcous soils arc those which most
frequently produce trufles, and in Eng
land they arc chiefly obtained from
the hill districts and chalky grounds
of Uants and Willis. Those, however,
which chiefly supply the English mar
kets are brought from Franco or Algiers.
Truflles emit a fragrant odor both dur
ing their growth and after they are
gathered. 1t Is this characteristic which
favors their acquisition, rs, being buried
out of sight, some other faculty has to
be employed to discover their presence.
For this purpose the keen sense of smell
in the dog is taken advantage of, and
dogs arc systematically trained for tho
purpose of "truffle hunting" This SER
vice is sometimes performed by pigs on
the Continent. The dogs are trained by
the device of hiding n truffie and re
warding the dog each time he discovers
its place of conccalmcnt. BY degrees
the dog soon learns to search in the
woods, attracted by the perfume, and
scratches at the spot under which re-
poses the hidden fungus. He is then re-
warded by a piece of bread, and the
truf1lo is carefully cxhumcd. The
catching" or hunting" of truflcs is a
regular means of employment for men
and dogs in those districts in which the
fungi exist in sufficient quantities to rem
der tho work remunerativc.
HOW TO PREPARE THEN.
Tho attempts ut artificial reproduction
or cultivation of the trufle have not been
successful, as mycelium or pawn, from
which other fungi (such as mushrooms
are readily produced, has not yet been
obtained. Success has occasionally at
tended the sprinkling of suitable ground
with water In which the fresh peel of
trufllcs has beer stepped.
The odor and flavor of trufles aremost
distinctive, and the delicacy of this flavor
is highly esteemed by cooks, these fungi
being generally employed for favoring
meats. Tho fresher trufles are used tho
better, us they lose their perfume by ex-
posuro to the air. Thus, English trufaes
which reach the market fresh gathered
arc preferable to those obtained from
abroad and those, again, which are
deeper in the ground are superior to
those found near the surface, possibly
owing to tho same reason-viz.: that
they have been better protected from ac-
cess OF mir.
To cook t~rufIlos, they should first be
well washed-if necessary scrubbed with
n brush-in warm water, rinsed and then
boiled according to size) from two TO
three hours. They may he served, hid
den in n napkin, as if they were chest
nuts. They nre eaten at tho second
course, dry, with cold butter. Tho game
Is eaten with them, and the crisp peel is
not discarded. Some people boil trufles
in champagne, under the impression that
they acquire the flavor of the wine. This
is n most extravagant and useless Gus
tom, as, in the first place, the tough skin
of the truffle is quite impervious, and
secondly, the wine, directly it is heated
to boiling point, loses all spirit and flavor.
If it is desired to put trufilcs into a
salmi, boil them separately, then peel
and cut them up when the dish is ready,
then over all pour the gravy or sauce.
They should also DO cooked separately II
intended for insertion into q boar's head
or for combination with the stuffing fol-
n turkey. In tho latter case they should
be peeled and introduced with the stuff.