Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1889-11-06

cred with clusters Of rose buds tied Will
floating blue ribbon. Delicate-hued evening
satins are also brocaded in solid color in sim
pie fsh-soaIe pattern and strewn with thu
tiniest rose-b1ds In natural colors, while
still other satins are similarly brocaded In
| self-oolor with rn.cIusters and in colorf
| that recall the flower painting of Vatican.
| These lowered brocades are imported fol
short Josephine bedioes, to be worn for dan
cling, with full skirt of striped OF delicately
| figured chifogue. This is the gauzs Of the
season, which comes in all evening eclors, In
fne ribbon stripes, in tiny figures and in the
flower patterns which are known among
merchants as "pompadour brocades."
Full skirts of colored tulle are also used
with corsages Of plain OF broeaded satin, and
| these corsages are trimmed with a network
of gold or silver passementerie placed across
the shoulder and as q metal girdle at the
waist. In some cases girdle of metal net
work comes from the arm at the left side and
crosses the corsage diagonally in q manner
familiar in old portraits of the day of David.
The wide golden girdles and softly draped
| rather than fitted corsage of that period are
copied almost literally for evening dresses at
present, though modified in details, as the
changes in taste of the present day would
dictate.
Trimming at present centers In the corsage
for either house or street gown. The all
around basque has almost disappeard except
fer tailor dresses of cloth. In many dresses
with basques the effect of a princess gown is
given by looping the skirt over the edge of
the basque at the back, and concealing the
edge at the sides and the frons by a girdle
or drapery of some kind. Louis XIV. coats
are being made, however, for eorsage with
costumes of cloth and velvet for the street
and as part of dresses Of brocade and velvet
for state oeeasions. These coats have the
back forms heightened over the back of the
skirt, large square pocket pieces covering the
hips. The vest of the coat is quite short,
reaching but few inches below the waist
line.
The tendency for some time past to con-
zeal the darts by drapery is more than ever 8
feature Of bodices. In some matinee gowns
the shoulder seam is also concealed by shir.
ring the sleeves over this seam SO that they
appear to flow from the throat band In
Louis XIV. coats the seams at the darts and
elsewhere are visible, except where the wide
revers that edge the vest cover them. A
handsome dress of dahlia-colo cloth,
rich new plum shade, was recently made.
The front and back Of the skirt were PLATA
velvet. The long princess overdress was fat
at the sides and embroidered up either edge
of the front with wide bands In which black
astrakhan was introduced. A vest effect of
velvet and embroidery was q part of the
waist; and triple oapes of cloth, each edged
with embroidery and q narrow border of as
trakhan, were added for wrap when the
dress was worn on the street. All sleeves re-
main an ornamental adjunct to the cersage.
A great many full velvet sleeves are being
made up for particularly nice gowns, even
where no velvet is introduced in the skirts
and only little in the rest of the corsage.
The high, full coat sleeve is the favorite
r. 4
short Russian jacket over full blouse is
given ia many evening bodices which are 1T
ted to the figure at the back. A handsome
princess gown of brown cloth was recently
shown combined with broeaded silk striped
in wevy zigzag pattern. The overdress
was shortened in front to display the entire
front of the plain skirt Of br0esde and was
extended ever the back in two narrow,
straight breadths, which were pleated In at
the back in three hollow x-pleats. This
combination of cloth and brocade is exceed
ingly stylish and is feature of rich street
and carriage dresses.
Black silk costumes are preferably of bro
cade in effective all-oYer patterns of solid
black for handsome house and reception
wear. Black satin brecaded with tiny flower
sprays in color is also worn. A handsome
black satin for dinner-dresH was made with
full, straight skirt, figured with tiny yellow
primroses at intervals. Wide revers of
primrose-yellow silk, yelled by black lace,
extended up either side of the 'front.' The
bodice was round waist made in front of
yellow ailk, yelled with full black lace, over
which was q jacket effect in the broeaded
silk. The fall, high sleeves were of the bro
eads and the back of the bodice, of brocade,
was fitted smoothly to the figure.
A simple dress of black brccsde is made
with straight. full akirt. the sole ornament
being small pointed apron, composed of
pendant strands of black jet beads The
bodice, in Louis XIV. coat shape, Is finished
at the sides with square pocket-pieces of SIM
liar Jet strands, and trimming OF jet En-
ishes the front of the coat.
Matinee gowns were never more beautiful
than now. India silk and soft surahs in
jewel-like colers are combined with touch
of passementerie, which shows blending of
many colors and CLINT of metal such as
only an Oriental worker can give. The
shapes of gowns to be worn in ones room
are lecse and flowing, though these dresses
are usually fitted underneath, in order that
they may set gracefully. handsome white
challie, figured with large crushed roses in
Pompadour pattern, is made into a simple
loose robe, falling from a round yoke, with
cuffs, collar and square pisces at the back of
moss green velvet, & charming Grscian |
jacket for house-wear, with matinee ekirts,
is of eream-white wooden Grape in full |
blouse with full sleeves, over whioh sleeve
less jacket of lilac cashmere is worn. This
Ia embroidered on the edge in square seal
Iops like Greeian keys. Little coats of |
striped brocades ere also made up for house |
wear, with full usaersleeves of white wool |
flowing from the short cost-sleeve, and full |
blouse vest held down by grdles, to be tied |
over the vest at the waist. These end in |
points of passementerie, reproducing the |
dower and leaf colors in the brocade. A |
handsome house sacque of coral-pink surah |
Is finished with raffie of surah, with deep |
Vandyke points of black lace let in on the
edge. The body of this jacket is shirrsd on |
to yoke, finished on the lower edge with |
points of black lace, and madc with a COLLAR |
similarly trimmed Fine Japanese coats of
quilted silks are again imported for toilet |
wear. They are pow fitted rather closer to
ehe figure than formerly.
There are signs of the revival of fne hand
made laces. All varieties of effective, bold |
patterns of linen lacs are used in the popular |
Vandyke points. Point de Gene, heavy and
but loom lace, is probably as
much used as any other. The wide Puritan |
collars and cuffs worn by children few
years ago are again revived, and are shown
In graceful shamrock and other patterns in
crochet from converts in Ireland. Russian
lace, the handsome 1ax-colored lace in vogue
several years ago, and imported, as Its name |
indicates, from Russia, is again shown in fine
patterns. Old fashioned Cluny lace Is used
in vandyke points for children's collars.
Large Marie Antoinette 6chus of silk
gauzs, finished with simple hemmed rufles
on the edge without heading, are graceful
and becoming addition to a dark house-toi-
let They are shown in delicate co!ors and
in black. There are also fichus of white
and eolored nets in variety of shades. A
novelty in collarettes is of dark royal blue,
black or some dark velvet, falls in three
points at the back and In points in front,
aud is finished with collar and border of
Point de Gene lace.
Thanks are due Arnold, Constable & Co.,
Lord & Taylor and Stern Brothers.
ca afarrEn