The Bottineau pioneer., 1889-12-14
HALIFAX FROM THE HARBoR.

We have heard 80 much Of the 'unprece-
dented growth" Of the United States that
it startles a Yankee to find that the
ratio of Canada's gain in population since the
American Revolution has been much greater
than that of the United States. The 10000
French whom Great Britain took as citizens
by the treaty of 1853 have in Canada alone
1,8OO, 900 descendants, and 1t is claimed that
there are 600, 900 more in the United States.
In short, say the Canadian authorities, the
original French Of the country, with no
French immigration to speak Of, have in l26
years increased forty fold. Since the days
Of Israel in Egypt there has been no such
fecundity.
And all these, with the three millions and
more Of English, Irish, Scotch and other
blood, have been in twenty years nodded
into nation which enjoys as much freedom
as any other and is resolved to take high
rank among the nations of the world. Surely
such people are worthy Of one summers
study. resolved to give six weeks to it,
anyhow.
The proper starting point Is Halifax, and
there is no line of steamers thithsr from New
York By sailing vessel one may mako it
in few days, or some weeks, according to
accident or incident. The proper route is by
the Fall River line to Boston, where one has
two hours to eat breakfast and reach the
wharf of the Brunswick line. Steaming out
Of the harbor at $50 a. N. we enter the An
napolis basin on the north western shore Of
Nova Scotia carly the next morning, taking
the afternoon train at Annapolis, and are in
Halifax soon after dark. Time from New
York, fifty to fifty-two hours; total expense,
including bells and meals, s20 Ocean voy
Il - l.
part of 1t delightful on the well appointed
steamers of that line. No seasicknass if you
pick the right day to sail But if there Is 4
spanking Breeze" and your diaphragm is
not well anchored, then you will know how
ons and brandy, with complete seclusion
from society-in your stateroom and flat on
your back, without pillow. You will get
able viscera will not flop up against the
smooth sea and clear sky and there was
not qualm. My day Of misery was to come
later in Northumberland straits.
Be it remembered that the steamers from
Boston land on the north side Of the penin
sula and thence we proceed by railroad
through the Annapolis valley-Nova Scotia's
hills and run down to the basin of Minas and
village of Grand Pre-. OF course all senti-
mental readers recognize these names-made
POLITICALLY historic, or more properly histori
cally poetic, by the author of "Evangeline."
Longfellow never saw it, but he has de-
scribed it well, and by rare triumph Of
genius he hos made things which were not
seem as if they were. On calm August day
the basin seems the natural site for ro-
mance-thare is such rare combination of
wild and Of pastoral beauty. The rugged
hills, which have followed the general line Of
the Nova Scotia coast, suddenly bend inland
and sweep around grand selnicircle Of per-
haps forty miles; up the center Of this in
closed tract runs the deep harbor, from which
little but navigable arms extend in all direc-
tions, while between them are the water
meadows and rising slowly inland the ver-
dant pastures and fertile farms Back Of
these the rocky hills rise abruptly in sullen
grandeur, thick set to their SUBMITS with
spruce, fir and pine. Above is the soft blue
sky of August; from the salt water comes a
gentle breeze; the bay and creeks are dotted
by many fishing craft; hundreds of fat
cattle Craze on the slopes, and over all the
basin seems to breed peace that passeth tthe
American) understanding.
The summer climate is as near perfection
rs is allowed in sinful world; nor are the
winters severe, though there is much snow
and sleet. But as to the springs all who are
questioned shrug their shoulders. That sea-
son is longer than the calendar calls for, and
is admitted to be very disagreeable. Eighty
eight above zero and six below are the ex-
tremes of the thermometer, but If it marks
above seventy-ive the people call it hot.
Everybody in Nova Scotia quotes Longfel
low with pride as to the description Of the
country, and everybody laughs at his his
tory. Occasionally, regret to add, one
swears. In tho village they still show the
blacksmith shop and other houses celebrated
In "Evangeline," though, as a matter of fact,
believe all the original houses were burnt.
Similarly the French of the Isle de France
still show the graves Of Paul and Virginia,
but shall we Americans criticise them? Have
we not had Cardiff Giant" and divers sea
serpents and "a Bourbon Among Usy'