Morning journal and courier., 1889-05-29

shades of India silk are combined in figures and stripes with white, and in some cases @ touch of buff is introduced in the pattern. It is fancy of the hour to use an under- skirt of white India silk with these stripes, and if there is buff in the pattern it is intro- duced on the feather edge of the inch wide gray ribbon, used to border it above the hem, in three or four rows.
 Already fastidious women are casting flower aside and demand some other trim- ming which has not become vulgarized by cheap imitation. A few rare flowers from which cannot be successfully initiated are used in first class millinery, but this is the exception. The daintiest bonnets for sum- mer are severely simple in trimming, made of exquisitelY fine fancy straw or of plain black net or some sheer silken gauge so transparent when puffed over the frame as to show the coiffure beneath. Little bon- nets quite similar in shape to last seasons remain the rule except for young ladies. There are many charming picturesque hats for youthful faces. These hats are varieties of the Directoire pokes introduced at the be- ginning of the season, but less pronounced in style aad not so large. Such hats for country or carriage wear are especially pretty made of black brussel net, exquisitely light, and almost transparent, trimmed with gar land of fine wild blossoms. English turbans, of fine dark straw, with close turned brims, simply trimmed with velvet binding and close rosettes of fine ribbon or tul1e, are used for travelling, shopping and general wear by young ladies. The most useful hat for school and country wear for children is @ large, low-crowned flat, of plain or mixed straw, in some dark color, trimmed with one or two rows of velvet folds and full rosette of white dotted net or silk null at the side. Little pokes of fancy mixed straw for young- CT children are simply trimmed with ribbon a ever before for children on dressy occasions. They are usually trimmed with ribbon TO- settes and sometimes with clusters of fine white close rosebuds, white violets or some other fine flowers.
 Negligees for summer were never more charming than now. The tea-gowns, which have been cast down from their high place as reception dresses, are now universally made up as morning house dresses or negH- gees. They are generally made for summer of India silk or sheer French nainsook, and in some cases of crepon, light crape-iike wool, which comes in delicate colors. A tea gown recently imported was of India silk in that fine, rich crimson know to the French as juice of cherries''; minute stars of black sprinkled the silk. The skirt was full and pressed into accordion pleats; the waist was shirred on the shoulder in Recamier style and held in at the waist line with wide belt leather stitched with black silk. A fall of
 
 down the front and formed the cuff of the large, full sleeve, which was held down by rows of feather stitching from the shoulder to within several inches above the elbow. Other tea=gowns are made with surplice waists or the graceful draped Greek front before described. Matinee sacques or sheer naiHsook are trimmed both with embroidery and lace. It is a fancy of the time to tuck the entire fronts of these sacques in quarter inch tucks. Ribbons in pale oat green, rose color or some other shade come from the un- der arm seams and are tied carelessly over the loose fronts. The sacques are worn with white nansook or colored ssrah matinee skirts; or more often half-worn silk skirt is renovated by economic women to wear for morning with such sac ques.
 The long-handled parasel fails to find the general favor which was expected. It is too pronounced in style and too heavy. A par asol with handle of medium size is prefer red by the best dressed women. There is considerable demand for pure white surah psrasols with ivory or light carved wood handles. Bouffant styles in plain black or white net are also elegant for dressy use.