The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-03-06
THE NEW SPRING STYLES.
SUGGESTIONS FOR SLENDER PURSES
With the Old Material And n Small Eek.
penditure the Prevailing Costumes
May Be Easily Duplicated
Late Fashion otes, Etc.

lily should be well out of the way. and the
mind lett free to concentrate itself upon
plans for rejuvenating old gowns and Sc
lecting modes and materials for new ones.
The second is always an easy matter if a
woman only has money enough to expend
1t on such fabrics and patterns as please
her fancy. The majority, however, have
so many places in which to put limited
amount that a few suggestions regarding
the universal renovating that spring an
nually necessitates may be in order. In
the first place the gown that needs alter
alton should be well looked over, if in
deed that has not already been done be-
fore the fall packing away, to see that
enough available material is at hand
to warrant making over at all. In the
present state of fashions, so far removed
are they from those of year ago that the
whole underskirt with its over-drapery
will have to be ripped apart. The material,
il of the high-colored summer woolens so
much in vogue last season, should be
washed well in hot soap-suds, rinsed
thoroughly in water of corresponding
temperature, and hung up without any
wringing. This should be allowed to hang
until the dripping stops, and should then
be pressed on the wrong side with very
hot irons until perfectly dry. Almost
any shade of cashmere may be treated
in the same way. Black goods, either
in cashmere or Henrietta cloth will
emerge from such manipulation looking
like new. As a rule waists OF dresses
have to be submitted to the dry-cleaning
process, as if once taken to pieces and
washed, the forms shrink beyond all hope
of ever meeting again Dry cleaning
shrinks an article slightly, but that diff
Guilty may be met by letting out the under
arm-seam as much as possible before
cleaning, the pressing insuring the re-
moval OF all traces of the old stitching.
Should the waist have q narrow vest, as
most OF the walking dresses did last sum
mer, it may be replaced by a soft, full one
Of crepe or silk. Or fresh, plain one be
introduced and broad revers to match
finish it on either side. Or if two or
three tiny folds finish the vest of the old
dress these may be ripped off, pressed
and put back again with several rows of
shirring where the piece is joined to the
shirs at the waist line IL is
good plan to cut off all
below the waist line, and sew
the underskirt and drapery to the bodice
IN the Old-fashiOned way. As to the un-
derskirt proper, it must give up its steels.
Forswear them forever, that is, for this
season at least, and be content to rely
upon a mere trihe of a cushion for grace
full effect. Whether any cushion at all is
used depends altogether upon the wearer.
Should the hips be sharply accentuated a
small pad viii be necessary to describe the
proper circle that should be maintained
from hip to hip; otherwise the desired
fullness may proceed from a couple of
layers of thin cTinoline that may be
plated or gathered in with the over
breadths of wool. After the steel comes
out of course the breadths that have sup
ported them must be shortened to keep
the skirt from an unpleasant dragging on
the ground behind. The underskirt
should be gathered with more or less full
ness III the front, point to be deter
mined by the figure of the wearer. Then
the perfectly straight breadths of the
drapery should be quite the length of the
underskirt, and be mounted in double
box-plaitS showing the gathers of the skirt
middle of the back. Four widths of the
goods are necessary for this. Ifnot enough
of the original material exists for this,
plain, contrasting material, or few yards
of some brOcaded effect may be used to
excellent advantage as panels. These may
be had smoothly over the underskirt at
the openings between the box plaitings.
Then pretty surplice front OF the same
may be inserted in the bodice, which may
also have a broad belt of brOcade to finish
it all the way around. Deep cuffs of the
same, reaching almost to the elbow, are a
stylish trimming for the sleeves. Should
the last be worn out to put in pair of
velvet ones Immediately relieves the
situation and places the owner of the
gown in the front rank of fashion. An
exceedingly pretty design and one
that can be utilized with amazing
facility in the renovation of any wool or
silk dress shows perfectly plain under
skirt of velvet, over which is mounted in
plaits long breadths of Henrietta cloth,
the whole being sewed to a round waist
Deep velvet cuffs have gathered into them
full sleeves of the Henrietta cloth. The
narrow vest between the shirred waist
fronts is OF velvet and the collar and in
side belt are of the same. The belt should
be fastened in front and have as hand
some and ornamental a buckle as the
owners purse will afford. Much care
must be taken in fitting and hanging the
skirt, for everything depends upon its
smooth fit around the figure. When paniers
and puffy draperies where the style this
was comparatively a simple affair Now
since the front and side breadths are
uncovered to the top they must hang
handsomely and above all not drag across
the front. Moreover, they must fit equally
well whether the wearer is seated or
standing. To accomplish desirable results
it is necessary to fit the skirt. on before
the drapery is adjusted. Foundation skirts
are no longer gored. but the front and
side seams slant inward toward the top
and two or more darts are in between.
No fixed length has been established for
these darts, which vary according to the
figure. Each dart, however. should be
opened and thoroughly pressed Al along
every seam the selvedges should be
shipped at intervals, the neglect of this
simple precaution Oftentimes causing the
puckered look observable in the skirts of
some costumes.
A correspondent asks for advice as to
models for making up two dresses, one of
black and the other of gray brillantine.
We would recommend for the first an ac-
cordion-pleated underskirt with a polo
naise of the same. cut off square at the
limo in from avaotlv liEo oraptla-