Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-06-29
From our oSn Correspondent

From our OSn Correspondent.
NKw YORK, June %.
''Do not mention Directoire' to me-" said
lady who is an authority ON taste and fashion,
recently. to her mOdiste; II am sick of the
very name" The costume under discussion
was silk, of soft shade Of gray, and the trim
ming decided upon was a lovely, transparent
embroidery, executed in very delicate colors
mixed with gold and silver. threads. This was
finally arranged as a plastron, wide panel,
and as a square, fat, seventeenth-century
collar upon a chemisette and collar of en-
broidered Lace The sleeves were full, with
cuffs Of lace, above which was laid band of
embroidery.
The ''Directoire" styles, or rather the mon
grei mixture of bold color and striking designs.
which obtains currency for them have indeed
been run into the ground, and forced ladies of
quieter tastes back upon a modification of the
empire modes. This revival has been OF real
benefit. 1t has gotten rid OF that absurd mon
strosity, the ''bustle," and the wrinkied mass Of
unnecessary and illused material known as
"drapery;" but which, as commonly seen, con-
sisted of mass Of stuff out of place and liable
to become nuisance at any moment.
The sensible modification OF the empire style,
on the contrary, has given us a simple basis
for the most charming summer costumes
Young girls gain infinitely by the charm of this
lovely and artistic style Of Dress and it is to be
hoped they will be wise enough to retain its
essential features.
The exsggeration Of any style always looks
like afectation and desire to attract attention:
but the usual method adopted of making the
round, full bodice the natural length OF the
waist and shortening il trifie by a broad soft
sash or belt, which often only starts from the
side seams, preserves certain equilibrium of
parts, and is susceptible of variations adapted
L. and at. rial vxtxxp IL
may be open and pointed worn with or with
ont lace or muslin chemisette and with or
without fichu. the ends of which are passed
under the belt and are left to fall upon the
skirt. instead of being tied behind as formerly,
plain, thin material is usually tucked above
the hem. II the material is figured this is not
necessary; but q border is often woven in the
goods, which is utilized as a finish for the
bottom of the skirt. A soft, thick ruching is
fashionably employed for the thin, summer
silks, for the edge of the skirt; but it is only
suitable for indoors; the first touch Of the ground
mars its appearance. The figured India silks
and pongees require nothing but hem.
REFINEMENT IN UNDERWEAR.
There is one point in regard to the present
summer styles which ia worthy of special at
tention, and this Is the refinement demanded
in underwear, in the absence of OVERLAPPING.
and the styles built up on stiff foundation
forms, which obliterated ightness and grace.
The possibilities have been quickly seized by
experienced leaders OF fashion, aided by the
modern tendency toward daintiness and deli
cacy in whatever comes in contact with the
person.
1t is within the past twenty-five years that
the lgatures, bands and strings which form
erly made cruel marks upon the flesh, in the
effort to hold clothing In position, have all
been dispensed with. At the same time inyen-
ton has been taxed 10 refine old materials and
produce new ones for the purposes Of wear
near the skin, from which all harshness and
unnecessary weight have been eliminated
Years Of costly experiments have given us
white washable silks a. useful a. cotton, and
cotton almost equal in texture to hne siIk.
These cotton and silk fabrics are interchang-
able; they are equivalent 70 each other, and the
difference Is q mere matter Of taste.
There are women, however, not always among
the very rich, who are never touched by any
thing less lovely than. softest silk. Delicate
underwear il their fad They do not spend
money in trimmings, they wear simple mater
iais, they seize eagerly the opportunity for get
ting rid Of supernuoua ornamentation and those
odds and ends OF nothing which make women
look 30 much like an imitation show case. Bat
they love the touch OF soft and fine materials,
and are drawn b. dcsiras workmanship a. by :
human hand, and the Epatoration OF the straight
Jingle skirt, the revival of mulls and organdio0s