The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1889-06-01
WOMAN'S DAINTY WEAR.
EATEsT THTNGs IN LINGERIE SEEN
I'm LONDON.

ass NN1ts"N IVA ~HSNsASVe N"N 1855
Dresses.
From the Cloak, Suit and Ladies Wear Rerieic.
Though silk is still worn for night
dresses and underclothing, at the
present moment the material most
employed for these is a fine nainsook,
and plain and fancy cambrics. AS the
winter approaches, silk may, perhaps,
be in the ascendant again.
Silk understands are, of course, very
generally worn, and dresses
hang so well as when over these.
Plain and shot silks, trimmed with
pinked and gathered fiounce of the
same, are the simplest of these skirts;
the more elaborate have lace founces
over the silk ones, silk ruches of the
same or different color, ribbons, en-
broideries and galloons; fancy stitches
are also used as a finish to hemmed
fiounces, such as the feather or branch
colat stitch, in coarse silks.
Fashionable women infinitely pre-
fer everything prepared by hand, and
the Vosges embroideries, OF which
every stitch is handworked, are much
sought after, the women 0 fthe Vosges
district being renowned for the deli
cacy Of their work, ! inspected much
of this work at the Vosges depot in
London.
A simple but pretty style is in
colofed nainSoek, made with inch
wide tucks in front. each headed by q
white embroidered heading, the collar
in two upright tueks to match;
through each of these a ribbon is run,
and the four endstie in front in a
cluster of bows; the cuffs correspond
with the collar, the ribbons being on
the outside of the arm.
A white flannel skirt of exquisite
quality with a shaped band twelve
inches deep, the skirt slightly fulled
on this, and embroidered for about
eighteen inches, the lower half in a
very elaborate renaissance pattern,
partly open work, partly raised satin
stitch; the upper half of the design
is not SO full, the edge is in large seal
lops buttonhOled, with chain OF lace
wheels Just above, and falls oye a full
frill of torchon lace.
Much use is made in all fashionable
u~nderclothing of the little narrow
lace insertions with crossed bars
raised separate from the lace, for rib
hons passed along the insertions and
threaded under the bars,
Now that | am describing the cross
bar insertion | will explain two other
terms | am bound to use repeatedly
! when describing lingerie, namely,
heading and gallery" insertion;
both are used to frill, tucks and IN
broideries; heading is a row of tiny
| holes sewn round and touching each
other like a row of beads; at each side
| of the row is a sewn line like a cord;
the heading may, of course, be in sew
eral rows; then / should mention the
fact. The gallery" insertion is in
fine upright bars between spaces,
looking like a tiny colopnade of pill
lars; of this also there may be a series
of two or three rows, in which case
the bars are owe the spaces in the
row beneath.
One of the night dresses at the Ves-
ges depot is very effective. and novel.
The trimming consists of long points
in buttonhole stitch in rose leaf seal
Tops, worked in the material, and
filed with tiny embroidered flowers,
leaves, and berries; the points are
graduated in length, the two longest
being in front, from under which the
fulness is arranged in tiny tucks; the
collar is a band of the same embfoi-
derry, headed by two very narrow
frills of nainsook edged with lace; a
colored ribbon is run under the en-
broidery and tied in front; cuffs to
match the collar. A more elaborate
style, also in nainsook, has six inches
of each side of the front in very mar
row tucks; a broad, deliberately
worked embroidery with scalloped
edge forms a yoke pointed il front
and square behind; down the front a
frill of embroidery and finest torchon;
embroidered collar, with plated lace
friH above. The sleeves full, the
outer half in tiny tueks nearly down
to the elbow, then set into band of in
s~ertion, full below, forming puff over
the elbow, and set into a second in
sertion heading a friH of nainsook,
with two inch fine torchon.
All the night dresses at this estab-
lishment have shoulder seams, the
length and shape of those worn with
dress bodices, the sleeves being set on
the shoulder, not below, as used to be
the case.
A pongee silk night dress has a
double running an inch wide round
the waist. A watered ribbon in this
draws it to the waist and ties in front.
In the centre of the front are six very
narrow tucks, each way; the deepyoke
is entirely in fine tucks tothe shoulder
seam; the back is in quarter inch
tucks, collar of upright marrow tucks
and friil of lace and ribbon bow, full
sleeves, tucked cuff with lace friii and
bow. wide hem and three narrow
tucks round edge of skirt.
/ find / have omitted one exceed
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