Morning journal and courier., 1889-09-12
LONDON FASHIONS.
Stray Notes From . Tour of the Shopi

Stray Notes From a Tour of the shops.
 From the Pall Mall Gazette.I
 Autumn jackets are trife longer than usual. It's to be hoped this isn't sign that the ugly three-quarter length jacket is going to turn up again. One of the smartest of the new jackets is made of green cloth, with g white waistcoat braided in black in de- sign representing small ferns. The sleeves have narrow white cuffs braided in the same way. A more gorgeous jacket is of terra cotta plush, with cloth vest in plotting pa per pink. But the jacket recommended for seaside wear and for travelling is the s'Mi- guel." It is good deal like the Eifel, and both jackets were designed by Madame Car nier, of Regent street. The Miguel is made and small pointed revers of silk in a con- trasting shade. When worn open these re- vers stand up from instead of setting flat against the jacket.
 There is new era in ties. The salmon colored silk and the blue foulard are not the newest. The newest are made in the most delicate shade of electric blue silk picked out with white horseshoe or ring pattern in white, and in pale pink covered with scrawls and squares and the like in black silk. The alteration in the size es we'll as the colors of ties for the dandy is the more remarkable. To be perfect the tie must be four and one- half inches wide and sixty inches long, and l it is the shining ambition of those who wear them to show as much of the tie as possible For this purpose waistcoats are worn with an exceeding deal of shirt front. That, togeth- CT with the other appurtenanoes of fash ionable young gentleman's wardrobe, were shown to me by MT. Greaves, who ministers | to the wants of these butterflies in the Bur. lington Arcade. The new waistceat is 8 | double breasted one and neceesitate3 large expenditure in starch. There is new knot ! to be conquered if you want to be in the ab- solutely latest mode. The knot js tied at bunch and pin sunk in the middle, and the | ends are folded over each other.
 It is not in ties alone, however, that the l new dandy proclaims unto the world his gor- geousness. He must have his 6fty shilling a dozen silk pocket handkerchiefs-old fash l toned linen dittos are discarded with con- | tumely-and each handkerchief must have as the young gentleman's tie. Then it Is thrust negligently into the side pockets and ! the corners stick artistically out. Then l there are special black silk socks with open | worked lace embroidered fronts in diamond ! and other patterns. These socks cost twelve shillings pair, and have the exact finish of ladies' stockings. There has been @ great run on the pocket fitted embroidered night
 shirts. It was expected at first that they
 wouldn't sell, but the dandy by day must be
 6 dandy by night.
 Collars will grow higher still. Prince AL
 bert Victor is expected D send them up au eighth of an inch. A new collar is intro duced every six months, and the time hat
 now arrived for the introduction of fresh shape. But it isn't collars or ties, or sill
 socks, that the most money is spent on-it'l gloves.
 The gloves for a dandy's evening wear are
 made in the faintest and prettiest shades O
 French gray, and the stitching at the back ii l nsw design-like three hairpins radiatin( from a center. There is one man, military
 gent, who affects originality in evening gloves. He hes them made of cream eoloret kid and pale gray, and the backs are stitched
 colors mingled with thread of gold. 4 glover told me his glove bill came to ffteel
 pounds a quarter. Other men go to as mucl
 as twenty to thirty pounds a year. Thes
 are only moderately indulgent. A goot
 many men prefer Swede gloves to kid
 These only last out four wearings and thel begin to look shrunken and spoiled. Men' gloves are made with three buttons or more
 and the one button gloves are left to yer.
 plain people. The glove to be worn this au
 tnmn is the mahogany tan reindeer. Thes
 will cost eight shillings and six pence pair
 but they are good wearing gloves.
 A florist must be a man of ideas. Ne1
 ideas of table decoration, the provision o fresh posies, new buttonholes-all these hay
 to be invented as the old things vanish ! The most difficult task for florist is when
 lady wants to make up posy to match tn
 flowers in her bonnet Of course the foris
 despises the artificial article, as any lover o botany must, for some of them are such trs
 vesties on nature. The majority of dime
 table decorations are done in two flowers
 amber and blue, for instance, or wholly i
 white. Mir. Bronwich, the Queens florist
 and F. R. H. S., has invented very pret
 ty and novel design for the table. A wreat of flowers runs round the edge. and on tn
 guests sitting down they find this can b
 taken to pieces, and it provides every on
 with buttonhole.
 Buttonholes is the branch of the florist
 trade which is most profitable. Some me ] will pay five shillings for gardenia in th winter. Of course the carnatien is the fs vorite flower now, but it must be avoided D ) gentlemen with derid oomplexions. MI Brcmwich sells several hundred buttonhole . every day. Plenty of his customers hay 5 wear.
 y A big artificial flower maker m Woo street. was very indignant when hinted tho he had made his fortune during the last fe' l months of the flower rage.
 "Fortunes aren't made out of such con e mon stuff, and artificial flowers don't feto Il the prioe they used to-" he replied imps v we wouldn't have sold for two and sixpent - few years ago."
 d "But all artificial flowers are not con
 Imong"
 "No, but the proportion of good payi1