The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-10-28

Amelie Rives Has Recovered from
Her Eccent-icities of Dress-Lillian
Russell's Hats
Copyright 1880
New York, Oct. 25.-Show me her bon
net and will show you the woman.
For does it not more than the rest of her
apparel carry the imprint of her indivivid-
uafitya Fashion allows for it an un wonted
latitude of choice, and thus makes it prime
register of the wearer's judgment and taste.
Then, to leave figure and speak literally.
does it not form an iutegrant part Of the
faces ensemblel When one sees the face he
sees also the bonnet, and it has its signif-
icant part in the impression produced
If it is ugly, the wearer's beauty is
eclipsed; if it is grotesque, she is
vulgarized; if crude in color her refine
ment is accused; if over large, she
may look Drained; if too small her
head will appear out of proportion to her
body; if in any way it calls attention to
itself it detracts by so much from the
features it should subserve. With what
e. care then it should be chosen. 1t is mis-
take TO leave decision upon il to milliners'
clerks, who are interested only in making
sales. A woman who did this lately re-
bonnet does not look well on me-" but
madam" returned the girl-in- waiting, ex-
postulatingly and crushingly, as she ad-
justed it on her own head, '1t becomes me
beautifully"
But all considerations are swallowed up
in the superior one of style. A well-dressed
woman follows closely the STYLE Here
however, great errors may arise. The
danger is in mistaking certain ramifcations
for the radical, stray ebulltions of the
designers fancy for the essence and true
characteristics of style. II it is thought
that what is newly designed and freshly put
upon the market is necessarily stylish a
fatal mistake is made. For illustration,
there is exhibited this fall a hat with two
crowns. and another of round
mortar-board with coronet underneatl d.
They are bulletined as the great novel
ties, and will find their way to re-
mote places, where they will be taken for
leading styles. These will never be seen on
Broadway and Fifth avenue. Trey are
the sops of the morbid demand for some
thing new, but give the milliners and fash
ion guides something fresh to talk about
The metropolitan women who form a style
seize not on the eccen ricities of this sort,
but on the essentials of current modes
They choose, adapt and develop; tdey
analyze and crystalline, the result being
what is accepted as the purest prevailing
away all those embellishments which
appeal so strongly to the provincial heart
and which are provided by the shopkeeper,
to cater to the appetite and not to guide the
TASTE
The most noticeable characteristic of New
York dress is its simplicity, and a GER ain
compactneSs or conciseness. Everything
falls into prescribed bounds. The limita-
tions of space and time in city may be
responsible for this quality, circumscrip-
ton having become a habit. Nothing is
allowed to fiutter or to escape set bounds;
irregular and sidewise effects, as of a hat |
cooked upon one side, are for the most part |
frowned on; artless effects and me etricious |
graces are not tolerated, and when INDUCED |
mark one at once as countrified. A studded |
imitation of the novelties of the fashion |
bulletins has the same effect, and looks vul- |
gar also. 1t is in these points that the dress |
of a metropolite differs from that of |
the women Of remote towns, and this |
explains why a poor saleswoman in New
York may exhibit in her gown more style
than country woman who spends IN
limited IN oney. When Amele Rives made
her entree to New York she was gowned in
a manner that she herself considered highly |
aesthetic, and entirely satisfactory, but to
the metropolitan eye it 10 )ked woefullv
provincial. For time she rejoiced in her
superiority to style, and the exaggerated
service as advertisements, but, understand,
she has outgrown these fancies, and the
latest advices from Paris, wnere she is STAY
ing, announce that she has succumbed,
finally, to style, and now wears the most
correct of costumes.
Broadway styles are modes for the street;
Fifth avenue styles cover more ground and
include dress for all seasons and occasionS
What is sanctioned on Broadway is the
most 'chic" thing going, and that in which
Filth avenue leader is apparelled is a
correct model in every respect
The Broadway hat this season-the
promenade, shopping and church hats,
first OF all others, the turban; and this is
the most successful form of small hat ever
devised 1t is low and fits the head, and is
simply trimmed. Folded velvet is about
the brim, knotted in front or at the side or
even behind, with wing thrust through the
knot. The crown may be felt, or it may be
soft, of plain or embroidered cloth. The
toQue OF last year is not abandoned, but is
not so much in favor as the simpler turban.
There is anol her shape seen on Broadway
whichis very chic; it is a felt sailor with
very low crown and a very narrow brim.
Folded velvet rests upon and nearly con-
ceals the rim above, and is knotted at the
side or back, where it has a wing or quill
thrust through, projecting to the front.
This hat is just trifie pronounced, and re-
quires pretty face beneath it.
But not all the hats are small The Muir
ray hill milliner's windows are splendid
with great 6aring-rimmed chapeaux like
ballroom bouquets. Do not however, make
a mistake. You cannot choose as you fancy
between broad brimmed fiat and a head
gear copied from the orientals, for times
and places are memorable, and in your dis
elimination of them will lie one of your
claims to style. The large hat is suitable
this season only for carriage wear aud gala
occasions, such as weddings. 1t will not be
worn by. women of taste and fashion on
Broadway or at church; therefore, if you do
not drive in an open carriage do not supply
yourself with one.
But they are lovely, these fiaunting-
brimmed corrections, and it tries the soul
TO abstain from wearing one. What a
frame is to picture it is to the face, catch
ing and concentrating all its charms A
dark, soft outline, over which plumes peer
cunningly, it is a very lovers trap, to en-
tangle the senses. / saw one in tae park
the other day under circu instances which
suggested this last remark. 1t was upon
the exquisitely dainty head of coming
society debutdnte. Her costume was of the
color once known as reseda, now called in
Paris cert-uerUGtn. 1t is grayish blue
green. The gown and jacket were OF
plain face cloth, and the large
hat was Of velvet OF the same
A 4.