The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1889-05-31
WHAT ARE TRUFFLES?
SOMETHING ABOUT THE MUSH-
ROOMS UNDERGROUND COUSIN.

Member of the Fungi Family That
Tickles the Palate of the Epicure How
They Grow and Arc "Caught"-Attempts
at Cultivation Unsuccessful.
Probably few of the thousands Of peo-
pie who have enjoyed these culinary
dainties are aware of the manner in
which they grow or the circumstances in
which they are obtained. Others, again,
VITO have perchance never encountered
trufies or met with them in the bill of
fare or upon the menu of the dinner
tablc-for they are not sufficiently plenti-
full to be popular article of diet-will
have but confused idea as to what de-
nomination they belong, such confusion
being heightened by reason of the term
catching" or hunting" being used to
denote the means by which they are OBJ
tanned. 1t is, therefore, not unnecessary
| to explain that truffies are underground
fungi, those which are the subject of
commerce belonging to the genus ''tuber,
whilst others which bear the name are
of related though different genera. In
England they were formerly known as
u uDDCo, DOJli DCltI3 uOuDelGoo
derived from the Latin tcrre tuber.
They are somewhat oblong or globose,
and vary in weight from a couple of
ounces to several pounds, according to
the species, locality and the circum-
stances in which they are grown. They
! vary somewhat in color; some are white,
but generally they are of a black or dark
hrDx,-,, op1or o,,1 Of r0YIp1, oytorinr.
the skin being thickly covered with wart-
like protuberances When cut through
with knife, they present u different APP
pearance from that of any other fungus.
Veins traverse the mass in all directions,
giving marbled character that is dis
tinctive feature of the trufi1e. When
closely examined, minute sacs will be
noticed in the veins. These contain
spores, which are covered with spines.
DOGS as TRUFTLE HUNTERS.
Not much is known of the early de-
velopment of the truffle, owing princi-
pally to its popularity of growing under
ground, where it is free from observa-
ton; but when found in the mature
state. in which they are used for food,
they are altogether free from attach
ment, either to the ground or to any
other body. They are commonly, if not
invariably, found in woods, the pres
encc of oak or beech trees appearing to
favor their growth. From this fact it
has been inferred that they are of a para
sitical nature, and that at some stage of
their existence they derive their nutri-
ment from the roots of trees. Light
calcarcous soils are those which most
frequently produce trufiies, and in Eng
land they are chiefly obtained from
the hill districts and chalky grounds
of Hants and Willis. Those, however,
which chiefly supply the English mar
kcts are brought from Franco or Algiers.
Trufflcs emit Il fragrant odor both dur
ing their growth and after they are
gathered. 1t is this characteristic which
favors their acquisition, as, being buried
out of sight, some other faculty has to
be employed to discover their presence.
For this purpose the keen sense of smell
in the dog is taken advantage of, and
dogs are Systematically trained for the
purpose of ''truffie hunting" This SER
vice is sometimes performed by pigs on
the Continent. The dogs arc trained by
the device of hiding q truffie and re-
warding the dog each time he discovers
its place of concealment. By degrees
the dog soon learns to search in the
woods, attracted by the perfume, and
scratches at the spot under which re-
poses the hidden fungus. He is then re-
warded by q piece of bread. and the
truf1le is carefully exhumed. The
catching" or hunting" of truffles is
regular means of employment for men
and dogs in those districts in which the
fungi exist in sufficient quantities to rem
der the work remunerativc
now TO PREPARE THEM.
The attempts ut artificial reproduction
or cultivation of the truffle have not been
successful, as mycelium or spawn, from
| which other fungi (such as mushrooms
are readily produced, has not yet been
obtained. Success has occasionally at
tended the sprinkling of suitable ground
with water in which the fresh peel of
trufflcs has been stepped.
The odor and flavor of truffles are most
distinctive, and the delicacy of this flavor
is highly esteemed by cooks, these fungi
being generally employed for favoring
meats. The freshcr truliies are used the
better, as they lose their perfume by ex-
posure to the air. Thus, English truffles
which reach the market fresh gathered
are preferable to those obtained from
abroad and those, again, which are
deeper in the ground are superior to
those found near the surface, possibly
owing to the same reason-viz: that
they have been better protected from ac-
cess of air.
To cook trufiles, they should first be
well washed-if necessary scrubbed with
! IA brush-in warm water, rinsed and then
boiled (according to sizc) from two to
three hours. They may be served, hid
den in napkin, as if they wcro chest
nuts. They are eaten at the second
course, dry, with cold butter. The game
is eaten with them, and the crisp peel is
not discarded. Some people boil truf1ies
in champagne, under the impression that
they acquire tho flavor of the wine. This
is a most extravagant and useless Gus.
tom. as, in the first place, the tough skin
of the truffle is quite impervious, and
secondly, the wine, directly it is heated
to boiling point, loses all spirit and flavor.
If it is desired to put truffies into a
salmi, boil them separately, then peel
and cut them up when the dish is ready,
then over all pour the gravy or sauce.
They should also be cooked separately if