Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1889-11-09

81 Well-good-byel
Tnen-good-bye!
Friends-good-bye!.
will confes that I am a graduate, and
with the highest honors, as beer drinker.
I have got along without it for over ten
years, because that we1 the way I wished to
live, without endeavoring to force others
into my way Of absJainance; and also con-
fess that I still remember its foaming pres
encs and hospitable cheer with something
akin to that tender reverence with which one
ecntemplates in revery the roystering, unctu-
ous side of the character of some dear friend
long gone. And 80 when at a little brown
village half hid behind stacks Of hop poles,
brewer of Bavarian beer showed his rosy
old mug alongside the compartment, I well
coined him with right good fellowship.
We were nearly TIVE hours together, and
We talked all that time about Bavarian beer.
This brewer said, so help him, that it was all
nonsenee about himself and his brother
brewers possessing any wonderful secret for
beer brewing, ss many supposed. Indeed,
this notion had become such q fxed belief,
that Bavarian brewers hands had been able
to infamously impose upon brewers in other
countries, who had expended enormous sums
in preparing special machinery and buying
"Bavsrisn beer secrets" Bavarian beer was
better than any other beer in the world, and
always would be, he said, for the simplest of
reasons. These chiefly were climate, water,
care. He YVES certain that the climate condi-
tions gave the finest hops for brewing in the
world; that these were not alone necessary
he showed by citing the fact that, though
Bavarian hops were exported largely, still
brewers using them abroad failed of desired
results. The water, he thought, had much
to do with it. Ali Bavarisn streams are re-
markable for their purity, and all of those
from which the water supply for brsweries is
Iva hov <hoir In and for r,oilaa
through the chalk hills and mountains of
Bavaria. To these two facts, and the extra
ordinary care taken in brewing, he attribu-
ted the perfection of Bavarian beer, which
always had been famous for its perfect col
or, quality and effects.
I could not resist a peep at dear, delightful
old Nuremberg. Near it is located the i'm
Msnse factory of the Faber pencils; it is the
greatest storehouse in the world for Santa
Claus; and the art studies that everywhere
abound ia this most picturesque city of the
continent, though artists never visit it, is
worth European trip alone. Away back,
almost in the unceunted years, Nuremb berg
was q seat of learning, the home of art, the
left to the artist of today many quaint
studies for his contemplation, but the entire
old city Is q succession of such rare and
marvellous pictures in color and grouping
and architecture as any dozen other cities of
the continent do not possess. The very air
is full of art. Why, all the cities Of the
Orient have not rarer Byzantine studies than
Nuremberg; all Greece never showed finer
Dorics, Ionics or Corinthians in orders; and
all styles of architecture which were ever
known seem to be, in Nuremberg, not only
wrought to perfection in themselves, but de-
veloped into composites of wonderful beauty
and loveliness. So II is, suppose, that
throughout all Europe when bit of archi-
teetural beauty in design Is seen which can
not at once be properly classified, 1t is
straightway termed Nuremberg"
Bat stones throw from the station you
pass into the city proper underneath nigh
ty gate; for Nuremberg, yeu must know, is
the only city in Europe still preserving her
ancient walls, perhaps the most stupendous
now extant, surmounted with great towers at
frequent intervals, and having yet dry
moat one hundred feet Ia width and fifty
feet in depth; and directly you are along
side the Lorenzo cathedral, which possesses
wonderful rose window and portal, and the
equally wonderful ciborium or monstrance
by Adam Kraft; while in art and literature
the names of Dursr, Wolgemut, Kraft,
Vischer, Kulmbach and Hans Sachs bestow
upon Nuremberg great honor. just beyond
is the splendid bronzs fountain representing
| the virtues (Tugend brumen) by Peter Wis
| cher, who to German fame was the most no.
| ted worker In bronze that ever lived. Other
famous pieces by Vischer which I saw here
were the Gansemauchen, the Dudelsackpfei-
fer and the Sehone Brumen, a marvellous
| Gothic bronze fountain sustaining twenty
two figures.
Having personally penchant for ecelesi-
astical art, I was greatly interested in the
| carved wood altars in the churches of St.
Lorenzo, St. Sebald, St. Jacob, the Angus
| AZ. kL< he
| Moritz chapel, and an especially rare piscs
in the little church of st. Johns. In nearly
all these churches are master pieces In pure
paintings and frescoes by the great artist
Durer, whose old home, just as he left it and
now owned by the city, is now standing un-
der the shadow of the mighty castle, OF
Burg, which rises majestically hundreds Of
feet above the other great towers and ire
msndous walls of the town.
There is also more than passing interest in
| the great Frauen Kirehe, or Church of the
| Virgin. Above its massive portals, just al
| the base of the fine old sptre, is the celebra-
| ted clock with its mannleinlaufen drumming
men, In this church Wagner locates the
first ect of the 'tMeistersinger;" and it all
brings to mind the sturdy old Hans Sachs
| the shoemaker poet, for Nuremberg was his
birthplace and the city of his love and songs
| Above this ia the little Moritz chapel, and
underneath it's caves is one of the Oldest
known German inns, built against the side.
1t is preserved as a relic of the most ancient
of hostelries. Beyond this, and nearer the
great castle, we pass the rear Of St. Sebald's
| ohursh. Here is seen the finest piece ol
sculpture, in alto relieve, in Europe. II
consists Of four great passion scenes set be-
Tween two buttressss against the inelosine
indsnyed church wall. Above is an archi.
tectonic semhlance of projecting roof, en-
| tablatured, and below the scenes or 'ssta
tions." as they are called, is fountain al
which street passers may refresh themselves
The scenes depict the cross bearing, the cru
ci6xicn, the burial and the resurrection oi
Christ. Upward of fifty figures are repre-
sented, and in no paintings that have ever
seen were these aupreme climaxes OF the
| Passion so wondrously delineated. :.
| Great books glowing with interest could
be written about NursmbuIg. AS the even
ing was coming on passed few moments
away up, up, up in the mighty tower among
the relics of the German Inquisition, which
began and ended here; and took peep into
the wondrous we'll, three hundred feet deep
| from the bottom of which extends subter.
ranean passage TO the center of the city
paused under the lime tree, planted by Rm
press Cunigunde eight hundred years ago
and returned through the quaintest ant
crookedest streets eyes ever beheld to IA,
hotel, from which sailed at an early hou
the next mernin9-and I can never forge
the saffron and golden glories of that sun