Wichita eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1886-1890, 1889-09-29
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WOMAN AND HOME.
COSTUMES IMPLYING MOURNING BY
ROYAL WIDOWS.

The Women of England and America.
Fashion Leaders Sans Beauty - Two
Kinds of Fame-Good Things for the
Horsekeeper to Know.
4 The Gaulois of Paris gives some particu-
ars as to the maIrning worn by widows OF
oval and imperial rank in Europe at the
lrcsent time A modification of the English
sidows cap, as worn for SO many years by
bueen Victoria, would appear to be the form
Pof couture adopted at many courts and the
same journal states that an English milliner
possesses monopoly of sunplving these to
the royal families of Europe
The description given IN detail shows that
the cap as worn at foreign courts has black
aisse "weepers" The aged Empress Augusta,
though she wears in other respects the con-
7endonal widows mourning, is obliged to
bare very warm caps, owing to the neuralgia
headaches from which she suffers The i'm
nense strings fall almost to the carpet when
she is seated in her large armchair, which is
mounted on rollers. The unfortunate En-
pzess Charlotte, widow of Macmillan of
Mexico, has always been careless of her dress
since the great tragedy of her life. When
she went to appeal to Napoleon III and the
Empress Eugene at the Tuileries she wore a
crushed dress and damaged white silk bon
met with the feathers all uncurled. Now, in
her widowhood and mental alienation, she
| loves TO wear the brightest colors, though her
attendants have frequently tried to dissuade
bier from doing SO. She often puts red roses
| In her hair, as she is represented in her por-
| trait by Raudan, in which her remarkable
resemblance to her grandfather, Louis Phil
| ippe, comes out so strikingly.
The ex-Empress Eugene, according to this
writer, wears the very simplest sort of
mourning. Her gowns are Of wooden fabric,
and fan in plain folds from the waist. Her
dressmakers occasionally attempt some varia-
ton upon their unstudied simplicity, but the
empress always bids them revert to the I'M
trimmed dresses that she now prefers. The
queen regent of Spain has till quite lately
worn deep mourning that was almost nun
/ like in its severity. The dress, very fat and
|straight, has had long, full train. Upon
her head she has always worn mantilla of a
black wooden fabric, without even the relief
! of fold of transparent Grape. For extra
covering, when crossing the gardens or
Straversing the long corridors of her palace,
Queen Maria Christina wears a long black
two pearl headed pins that King Alfonso
used to admire, for fixing the thick black
veil upon her head For certain occasions
of ceremony the queen regent has of late
dotted her somber black and worn lilac
(gown, but she seems to like to return to the
black veil that denotes her widowhood.
Hers is nature as serious as it is sweet At
her convent, in her girlhood, she could al
ways be counted upon for missions needing
\courage and devotion.
Princess Stephanie's still girlish head is the
latest to wear the royal widows cap, under
which her fair hair is almost hidden, and the
black and white of Austrian widows mourn
ing. Some dresses sent TO the Empress Fred
erick illustr 9 the etiquette Of the first
twelve months weeds Among them is a
morning dress in plain English Grape, the
skirt of which is gathered all round the
waist. The empire bodice has deep collar
of white batiste and cuffs to match that
reach to the elbow. Another gown is made
of dull black cloth, the skirt being trimmed
with three graduated bands of Grape A
wide, fat fold Of Grape begins at the waist
and falls over one side of the skirt TO the hem,
labove which 1T IL slightly draped- Over n
Grape waistcoat is a straight bodice with
large lapels of Grape. The orthodox white
batiste collar and cuffs are worn with this.
A long trained house dress is in black cash
mere, the front being entirely covered with
Grape. plated diagonally across it. The cui-
rasse bodice has plastron of Grape, the fast
enings of which are concealed beneath two
bias folds. Large sleeves of white crepe lisse
are worn over the black ones, the latter show
ing through