Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-07-21


lands 1000 feet above the warm sea in
Sicily, the Riviera, III Bulgaria and the
Cashmere plateaus of Persia, yield thou
sands OF pounds of petals from the most
odCriferous flowers in the world, far sur
passing in fragrance the products OF
lower valleys and heated regions. How
layers of the finest clarified suet mixed
with olive oil spread in glass trays
are covered with flower petals two inches
deep to absorb their sweetness. How
after lying under the flowers, acacia,
jasmin violet, orange flower and lemon,
rose and tuberose for weeks, the odOrous
precious pomade is shipped in bulk to
perfumers all over the world. Their
first work is to dissolve in the finest
.deodorized alcohol as much of the fat as
1t vii. take up, forming the
triple extract which is the
base of all perfumes sold. This
maceration of the flower pomade is fin
ished b. cold, not by heat, as most peo-
pie imagine. The extract must be
chilled to secure the excess of fat which
floats in the spirits, and which would
infaliibly be evident in a change of tenn
perature The cans of perfume are
placed in ice TIL the globules CONCEAL on
the surface of the alcohol, when they are
skinned off and dissolved in fresh
spirit.
The laboratory of perfumer is a very
prosaIc-iOoking place. Rows of bright
| cans of kerosene, apparently, hold in
reality two to five gallons of flower spirit,
from which he politely draws a goblet of
clear fluid, not to sip but to sniff,
with all the breeZes of the tiOWer-laden
Riviera in its depths. This can is a gallon
or two of extract of jasmln, that mag
mum of parma violet, that of cassie or
the doubly sweet prOvencal acacia, used
in making violet perfumes, as it contains
the orris ether which is the~H essence
of all violet odor. NeroIi is a,
staple necessity of the perfumeEs. sap-T
oratory being another name for orange
flower essence, so called after the Empe-
ror Nero, for whom it was first distilled.
Cedrat is the refreshing oil of lines on. g.
fragrant lemon, most grateful and Sissfsa
of all extracts Another shelf hsF6S in
a score of small phials and glass TASKS
hundreds of dollars worth of precious
oils and affairs, distilled in quiet Persian
eEand East India sugars, oils of vanllfh-
grass and ginger-grass, from Iaaia,
Foil of lignalOe, which grows &alOngE
the Euphrates and the Syrian valleySss
oils of wild olive, tamarisk and myHRlE
gums fragrant and cosmetic, balsaIns
used to give body to perfumes aaagTen-
der them lasting on the handkerchief,
SQUAT bottles holding a few grains e
civet, musk or ambergris, costing more
than the contents of an apOthecary s
showcase, flower scent Of the masses of
wild lupine, that handkerchief left
overnight on q plant is penetrated
with perfume for days. Along
the coast the air is saturated with
fragrance of wild aromatic plants as IT.
is with sea fog The cool air distils the
perfume as i'll a vast condenser, and the
quality OF these aromatic dews is life-giy-
ing extraordinary
Extract OF California viOiets is the name
gwen to a new American perfume,
but if the makers could reproduce the
q Breezes of the Coast Range as French
~perfumers send out the ''Brise DIES
Alpes - it would be admired as the fam
Gus "'Peau q Espagne'' in the days of
Queen Elizabeth, and the odor is some
thing on the same order.
A curious French journalist diverted
himself lately by gravely suggesting tie
propriety of scents for certain occasions,
in other words, the etiquette of per-
fumes For instance, some extracts
should be used for outdoor prOmenades,
others for state occasions, others for the
intimacy of the boudoir. The idea is
entirely new to perfumers, and TifTanys,
who furnish scents for their $3.50 dress
ing eases, had never heard of it. The
notiaA might be followed farther. On
rising 8 person of elegant tastes
might Dash the water of the
bath with French cologne, whose rose.
mary tincture has n most reviving effect.
The ambitious young woman who IS
learning society makes herself attractive
she imagines, by seeming her person with
violet powder or heliOtTOpe sachets which
are q little to expressive of desire to
please. The trained belle battles her
neck and face in water which a few drops
of benzoin tincture makes agreeable, and
YOU approach her finding a delicate.
sweetness pervading her presence and
deepening as you take your place by her
SIDE. as if it were an aroma from her
flesh, like some flowers whose slight fra
GRANGE is only discernable by closest
sense. Her garments are perfumed by
sachets lying among their folds in the
wardrobe, not worn with them, which
gives them the evanescent charm of the
odOr of flowers, (Which comes and goes
on the air like the warbling of music, -
as Bacon says. For her morning rides
in the park, her habit may be scented
more decidedly with aromatic
peau d 'Espagne. or some Eastern blend
+ inc of cedar and sandal, or with the
raspings of camphOr wood, which yields
an aroma totally distinct from the gum.
Some stSh suggestion of scent is GER
tainIy preferable to that of the best
groOmed horse, when one must be on his
back. Possibly our French writer would
say in the forenoon one must see ones
lawyer in regard to some convey
ance, and it would totally detract'
from the idea of serious business
to go redolent with white lilac or eau
marechal scents of the salon. Only such
perfume as tesroses hidden in the folds
of the dress or q drop of sweet-brier on
the handkerchief, may give discreet
pleasure by rising over the smell of dust
and chlorine which gather III offices from
the accumulation of papers.
At a dinner no perfumes are worn.
Odorous flowers are not allowed to mix
with the SAVIOR of food, for the smell of
%~E a.