The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-06-01
THEDRESSOF THEPERI0D-
NEw ORDER OF THINGS By THE
UPPER TEN THOUSAND.

,,orted Designs in Dresses for the
sasson - Charming Toilets at -Four
O'Clock Teas-Fabrics and Gsrments
ofFine Wool-Ths Fashionable Scarf.
NEW York, May 9l.-Society takes a
nav departure during the last of tde spring
-,onths. and is to be seen out of doors,
thar than IN crowded rooms. As the
...son bsgius in London it ends in New
work. and its leaders and lights give them
,.ves % to daylight park parades up aud
down Fifth avenue and on the ''grand
dr;ve:a to preparations for the annual
o,odus to the country, to theater parties ON
ssclosing nights to teas and luncheons
given to friends about starting for Europe,
and finally to assisting their departure
with the requisite flourish.
The ''drive" in the park in the sweet o.
.ha year has become one of the sights of the
town. and is well worth little trouble to
"a Unfortu ately there are not the facili-
ties for witnessing it which exist in the
HYDE Park ''row," and which make the
crowd lining the way as interesting as the
crowd in carriages and on horseback; but
otherwise the "shown is as we'll worth
SEEING. and both exhibit the splendid
results, physically, Of good living and
free, outdoor life.
The last twenty years has given us a
larger number than was seen formerly. of
women with magnificent physIques of the
Turkish order, women of ample proper
tions. rich development, lovely coloring, no
muscle and not much activity, who recline
in their softly wadded carriages a d do
actually liue in an atmosphere which the
winds of haven are not allowed to vi it, ex-
cept in their gentleSt mood. They are
usually the wives of very rich men,
and properly so, only rich men
could afford them; and wealth and ease
have assisted to make them the perfect
specimens of beautiful flesh they are. For
even beauty must be cultivated and adorned
TO satisfy fa,tldious tastes. AS for the
adjournment, Solomon could not have sur
passed it AID the lilies have no less to do
with it. SOtneb dy is paid to think FIR
them, to dress them as well as to cook for
them and keep their bodies up to this high
water mark OF civilization.
After all, it is not a little care to keep
oneself, even if it is only ores body, up to
so higha standard 1t is the first thing to
be thought of in tie morning, the last thing
at night. 1t is an eternal round of rubbing
and brushing and bathing and polishing
and manipulation. The daily airing is a )
necessary for a woman as a hose, if she Is
to be kept IN condition; and what a monot-
onous business it becomes alwas to do it
under the same circumstances, even though
these be easy and pie asant.
CARRIAGE DRESS,
as it is technically termed, always has
certain CO. Yentional character, but it de-
rives picturesque charm nowadays, from
variety of color and the contrast of color
with white. The millinery of the season,
too, is very conspicuous. The bonnets are
mt hJlt "a &c oil 10
more attractive for its novelty, artificial
flowers having been very littl used of late
years. and the revival wisely following the
old lines of adherence o nature, giving us
charming semblances of the loveliest things.
- Tee new shapes, too, are total reversion
of the preceding order. The brims dro %,
fine knife-platings of lace overhaug the
edge like the roof OF a matched outage.
The point which tur ed upward, projects
out, and is mounted or surrounded with lace
and grasses or dropping fowerets. The
Marie Stuart head-dress appears in a trans
parent lape, with rece ling sides turned up
as wings; a flower or bow of ribbon filing
up the space, or making an objective poi t
which emphasizes a fine profile, and the
delicacy OF the lines of beauty from the
temples to the throat in front of the ear.
Large rats are not much affected by
fashionable women in conjunction with car
rage costume. There is a certain inform
atty, and, therefore, incongruity about
large hat and formal style of dress; and
there are no women on the face OF the
earth more alive to shades and subtleties,
- correct forms and the differences appro-
pirate to various circumstances and occa-
sions than the travelled and cultivated
American. Besides, the large hat renders
the parasol to a certain extent superhuous,
and the paraspl is very important nova
Gays. The newest and Fl lest revive the old
real lace covers. upon silk the color of the
dress; but there ale others equally costly
tnat are enriched with delicate embroidery
or are specially made of rich India (Benares)
brocade, with turned bamboo or carved
handles, with gold or silver rings OF tops.
The dropped" silver sticks, or those
which are g cased in wrought s liver are
found too heavy, and are, therefore, not
culClvate1 even by those who ca afford
them. Very delicate and charming para
sols are OF plated lisse over silk of the same
tone, If 1t is very light, as cucum ler green,
Smell pink, cream and the like. Ivory white
would be used over old rose, lavender, corn
color or ecru, and would correspond wit
the touches of white in the costume. the
vest, the facings, the panels and the like,
Inc material is silk or Bengaline, and it is
olten enriched with the open silk and tinssl
elnorolcery which made its appearance
iaSt year, but was then SO extravagantly
nlgn that it found few purchaser Now it
IS reduced to about one-fourth; that Is
from 50 per yard to 81, whlc affords some
ldea as to the margin Of profit for "nov-
city" This outlines the white silk or crepe
Vest and panels, covers the collar and sh VS.
az the wrists. If you see anything very
striking, snowy or "odd" on tue drive, It's
"earer is pretty sure to be an actress or a
foreigner, perhaps both, for American &C
dresses OF the best class are usually very
quiet In their out-of-door dress.
inns conVentionalism is far from charac-
tteriNng the dress of the period, as seen upon
me crowded thoroughfares, among
sseanler" parties, in the shops and upon
.nlormal excursions Men stand i'll groups
20 see the professions go by, declaring hem
Oe0ter than the circus" and certainly
some ~, extraordinary outfits are to be seen
Inc olrectoire costume with vest front, wide
teVers and straight skirt hanging full at the
JACK under the coat-shaped bodice, is, of
course, the predominant spring and early
summer style. But the beauty of the MAY
honth has brought an unusual number Of
lnin SIX and lace gowns and even a tici-
paled satlnes, the fine qualities IN which,
paitl ular IN the new white coral-liks fig
urihgs on dark red, green and grey-blue
grounds. can hardly be distinguished from
Inese materials demand different treat
neht from the solid silks and woods. They
ote destroyed by being cut into the usual
sun basque forms, yet they often become
kFOtesCOa. "a cat, Nv b, 40