The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-02-02

reds-which last are not & airing, but d. sky
and tron Zsd-produce more artistic effects
and are IN higher vogue.
BrocadeS in detached patterns were al
ways difficult to make up, and in large size,
give the effect OF blotched surface. They
break up the lines which are now considered
indispensable to grace IN appearance
and movement; and if employed at all,
can only be used in small designs and
for costumes that have Vatican or Louis
XIV. character.
But these do not represent the latest ideas.
The present styles are Venetian and Russian.
L ng, nearly straight, open or Princess cut,
the high bodice 5 owing laced or en-
broidered front or high on the shoulders, and
pointed back and front with silk crepe or
gauze, gold embroidered, for finish.
The uses to which black is put ars n office
able. The black in recently made dinner
gown was all of a very rich fsille trancaise,
brocaded in the long slender leaves of water
plants, the ends turned over. T draped
vest was of India silk Grape, half covered
with a jabot of lovely Chantilly lace. At
the left side was a draped gore of the Grape,
yelled IN the same manner with wide lace,
which terminated in a pocket lined with
Grape aud ornamented with clustered loops
of narrow ribbon The Grape and lace eff
feet was repeated at the top Of the sleeves
and also at the wrists for ttey were quite
long and very much narrowed. Black
gauZe, striped and made up with gold en-
broidery upon tulle, has taken the place II
black lace, with the ultra fashlonables.
The gauze is very silky and rich in appear
ance and can lie worn several times 81 that
it is useful as well as distinguished looking.
1t was Worth who introduced the touches
of black into grand toilets several seasons
ago, and they are still employed, but re-
qure au artists eye to give them their
value.
1t may indeed be said that nothing is lost
nowadays in hands that know what to do
with it. 1t is the ignorant who are vast
full and want everything new. Yet dress
like other things is doubtless only at the
threshold of its development. The quiet,
yet complete revolution which has taken
place within the past ten or fifteen years,
owes its origin principally to the advances
in color, the developments in embroidery
and the improvement in the preparation of
fiber. Form had already made great
strides, that is, it had begun to shape itself
TO the figure This is as far as we have got
in that direction; but there is a higher to
be reached. Tights are not art. We shall
earnin time to suggest rather than out
line anatomy and render beauty universal,
by making it where it did not exist.
One predominant feature of more recent
event & fashions is that the wearers are
considerably more dressed than they were.
There are no more great, bare spaces of
neck and arms from shoulder to waist,
which one bad the greatest desire to cover
up and get out of sight. The short sleeves
are distinctively sleeves they often form a
high puff, upright aud large upon the shout
der, but diminishing as it descends upon the
arm, where it nearly meets the long glove
Panels, too, are giving way to trimming
upon the front of the skirt, or openi gs
front and back, through which the thin
gauze or silk plating of the skirt is visible.
The crossed effect from the right of the
shoulder to the left of the bodice is growing
m re and more fashionable aud gives a GER
tain style to very simp!e toilets.
Awhile nuns yelling, made full, was crossed
in this way and ia ed with ivory white
corded silk, which diminished to a poi t
at the side of the waist, where it terminated
in rosette of the silk. The sleeve was a
little full at the top and folded, not gath
cred, and a small c ff of the silk was turned
upon the arm. This was all there was of
0 namentatiOn. I skirt hung almost
straight. No plating visib e, but the
effect was charming. You could hardly
now persuade a stylish New York girl to
wear one of the many ornaments which
were formerly so commonly seen. No
pendants, no neck laces, no neck cuains no
edgings, no frnges no ruffies, no earrings,
just a button at the wrist and bar at the
throat; and how modest and dainty they
look.
THE OSTRACISM OF THE MASKED BALL.
There IS another thing that is curious in
New York society, and that is the absolute
ban that has been put upon the fancy dress
ball. The la { of any Importance that has
occurred in the metropolis, was given few
years ago by Mrs William K. Vanderbilt,
and Sc ms to have nearly wrecked society
for Lady Vaudeville, in VIII Sc nonor it was
given, has never visited this country since,
and no one else has had the telneritY to fol-
low MIR. aud Mr.. Vanierb.lt's example.
The present rage is for theater parties and
dinner giving. So numerous and important
have theater parties become. that plays are
mod fled with references to them at those
houses of entertainment which are specially
favored by their attendance. Parties no
longer consist of three or four or h IL a
dozen, as formerly, but of dozen or
twenty; and partitions are arranged be-
TIVE n boxes so that they can be taken down
and thrown into one to accommodate large
parties. The presence of such groups is
desirsb BILE for more re sons than the enrich
mont of the box office. The toilets of e
ladies and the event dress of the gentle
men give a festal character to the house.
he ladies, of course, do not remove their
bonnets, but they wear a kind that look
more like jeweled headgear than a covering
for protection, and their dinner or afternoon
costumes are enriched with embroidery,
lace and jewels. and often exhibit charming
combinations Of color and quaintness Of
form.
A pink dinner, given recently, wound up
with theater party, for which two oxes
had been engaged. There were six ladies
as guests, and their ilets we're all band
some though not remarkable. That of the
hostess was black, shell brocade and lace,
over shrimp pink satin merveiulleux. Her
daughter wore high dress OF green silk
lined with pink and having snail pointed
vest, inserted epaulsttes d cuffs of gold
Qndian) brocade. A young married lady
wore white nuns ing over white silk,
with white moire sash and ribbons. Her
orname is were pearl and diamo spray
at the throat and diamond bracelet, con-
sisting of two rows of minute brilliantS,
like points Of light, from which hurg
round, perfect pearl as pendant. An
older lady displayed pr tty
gown in brown, pink and yellow, with bro
cade front in which Q shades were
blended. The bodice was long coat Of
brown velvet, lined with yellow,
the skirt was pink, the folds
showing through openings at the sides and
back. The vest CONSISTED Of crossed folds
OF mixed pink and yellow silk Grape, in very
del cate tints, and below this was the mar
row brocade front of the SIX TT. the mixed
folds Of crl pc repeated at the waist line.
Tho "pink" effect at dinner was obtained
by center scarf of pink silk painted in
SPRAYS of wild roses and AIDED lea es upon