Morning journal and courier., 1889-09-03
NEW THINGS IN womAN,s DRESS.
Walking Skirt in Ono Piece and
 Other London Novelties.

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 Other London Novelties.
 From Vanity Fair.l
 The walking skirt of the period has in- one piece, and only contains single seam; and is, moreover, made up what may be called the wrong way of the stuff. The meaning of this extraordinary state of things is that manufacturers have bethought them of weaving matarials that, taken from selv- edge te selvedge, measure the average length of skirt required by any woman who Is not giantess. All along one side is woven
 border of stripes or other pattern suitable for the bottom of skirt. Thus, when the
 one seam is sewn, you have an ample petti-
 coat absolutely ungored, but just as wide at
 the top as at the bottom The dressmsker's art consists in arranging all this fitness gracefully over foundation skirt very effectively many of them do it. It is rather refreshing to see the female form divine yelled by ample folds after so long course of garments that "exprest" rather than "hid" it as we have had of late years. There are few fabrics for ordinary use that make up in this style better than the bordered ] fannels, which are perfection for seaside and country wear, since they neither show dust ! nor soil, look daintily delicate, and yet SUD- ply just the amount of warmth so desirable in the damp, chilly days of this most unhar- ! vest-like August. But great many expen- sive fabrics are manipulated after fashion that precludes the possibility of two people having dresses alike, unless it Is their par ! ticular desire. The specialist measures of 8 ! certain quantity of this wide kind of stuff. \ say in one of the fashionable greens, and ! hands it to one of his best embroideresses, who forthwith works an elaborate pattern of l scollops or vandykes in many-colored silks and gold and silver threads ali along one | selvedge. By the time she has finished she | is utterly weary of reproducing the same | pattern, and in all probability would not do any more of it we'll. The next length, with | another pattern, brings a welcome variety to her eye and mind, and thus comes in the ! beauty of human handiwork as contrasted ! with the productions of machine. The | device resorted to for toilet intended for @ | woman who is much taller than the majority | of her sex is to sew guipure lace all along | the selvedge of the material, and so arrange
 the embroidery that it is partly on the stuff ! and partly on the lace. Toilets prepared in this manner can never become comm on, ,neith- ! CT can they be cheap.
 Guipure is quite the lace of the day, and ! consequently the Irish forms of t will come ! very much to the fore. They have at least | the merit of being substantial, and that Is very desirable in laces that are combined with l any fabrics thicker than crepe de Chine and | surah. | Some of the loveliest of new teagowns are l turned out. There is a wonderful cachet oi ! style about even those that are least expen- | sive, but they excel in white ones, many o1 which are perfect dreams of daintiness There is nothing like white so long ss g
 woman is young enough to wear it; and, judging by the example of some great French
 ladies who have long since passed the Rubicon ! that divides youth from middle age, the per.
 iod may extend over two thirds of the ordi. nary span of human life.
 Ladies are wearing the daintiest and pret tiest little "fobs" imaginable, made of fnt gold chains united by small circlets of en. graved crystal. They look very we'll indoors or with dress that is not covered by mantle
 or jacket, but it is simply pity that the,
 should be altogether hidden. Sspphires sArs
 quite the gems of the year, especially whel
 set in brilliants, and it is difficult to sa, l whether the diamonds best get off the sap phires or the sapphires the diamonds. Ther is passing fancy for moonstones, also SC in brilliants, and the turn of fashions vince Is bringing turquoises again into favor. Al | most every ornament made in brilliants capable of being broken up into variety C ! articles, as, for instance, tiara will divid
 | into 8 comb and two brooches, or can be rt
 ! versed as 8 neeklet, or will even make pa l of bangles. This is move in a very col F venient direction, especially for those whot . l command of diamonds is limited, and wh like to have as much as possible for the . money. All these little changes are good fe
 trade, and by and by sapphires and moor stones will yield the pas to emeralds an { rubies. The popularity of the oat's-ey l, seems over for the present. but no doubt will come in again, and so will the amt , | thyst, and even the Bohemian garnet, anon l lesser valuables. The fashion of placiu single brilliants as flower centres is at i height OF the continent, but it is not ever one who has loose diamonds floating abou , SO to speak and available for fancy pu
 | pOseS.