The Dickinson press., 1889-09-14

JunctS, have made industries which have
employed many people in their manu-
facture, and have added largely to tile
growth of that passion for dress which
has, in different centuries, broken out in
both man and woman. Alteration for
the human form has covered the feet.
bedcckcd the hands with jewclcd triiles,
and incased the body feminine in stiff
whalebones until it has become of differ.
cnt shape than nature intended. No art
icle of apparel is so much discussed at
this time as the corset; in truth, there is
an absolute war over it.
TO MAKE THEN GRACEFUL
Still, this same corset has held SWAY
long and firmly. Even in the davs when
the Greek sculptors builted their ideal of
beauty OH the Venus dc Milo writers in
Weighed against large waists, Ovid put
ting them at the head of remedies against
love. They were an undoubtcd out
growth from the bandagcs Worn by the
Greeks to restrain IL tendency to corpu-
loncy, and were as much used by men as
by women, ii we are to believe Aristo.
phancs, History also relates that Mare
Antony had need to resort to such means
TO compress his swelling figure" The
bands were three in nllmber-thc stro-
phium, a bandagc wound round the bust;
Il IONA, or the waist belt, and the tenta,
wound round and round below the waist.
Nor were the bandagcs Worn alone for
comprising undue rotundity of form.
They We're made wider and longer and
wrapped in large folds about slight fig
lrrs to give them tho grace of UNI
dulatins lines. From the latter use, more
than the former, has descended the repre-
lcnsibc habit of lacns the cause of tho
outcry against the stiff, whaleboncd cor
set of today
In the ancient days. Il very thin, slender
figure attained to Il much admired posi-
ton by being embodied in a large and
volumlnous strophlum and tcnta, and
using only one thickness of ban,lagc as
the IONA, producing the first effect of an
unnaturally small waist. When this did
not prov"ri rifcctua in Disgusting the lack
of clshionng to their bones they rcsortcd
to oils and ungucmts for bathing the
body; goose fat mixed with warm milk
an'! tlir '@55s of a partridge, the conylom-
erailon being highly scented, w;,sdrcmrd
tl," most productive of the desired cm-
h"npont. But great care was taken that
not drop should fall on the body near
the waist; in fact, while going through
the fattcning process tho IONA was worn
day and night
Since the days of incense burning in the
temples, Il record of which is found i'm
the books of Noses have perfumes been
used, and from the Egyptians, through
the Jewish people, has passed tho art of
making them, of burning aromatics and
of carrying about richly wrought fIacons
of scent which have sometimes been
made in the form of smelling bottles and
again as perfume sprinklcrs The fash
ionable woman of today wears her an
tiquc silver vinaigrctte suspended from
her chatclainc or carries her scent about
in Il costly tlacon, rich with chasings or
carvings, filisrcc work or enamel of
fragile Venetian glass, or of metal thick
ly studded with jewels, and none OF u
greater size than can be readily carried
in the hand, which fashion Queen Eliza
beth instituted in carrying about her
pomandcr. by the way, it WAS in her
reign that perfumes and scents began to
be manufactured generally by Euro,
pcans, although as early as the -Four
tecnth century the Nenctians competed
with the dIwcllcrs in the far cast in The
manufacture of sweet odors
Ingenuity today is not taxed to furnish
fresh designs for scent bottles, as the
gold and silvcrsmiths have only to copy
tho relics of other days preserved in
families and museums, the demand be-
ing only for antiques, and the supply is
largely of limitations. Some beautiful
patterns are devised in the form of the
most grotcsquc of goblins and dragons,
wrought out in gold and precious stones.
Others are chased with scrolls and sur
mounted with rorolts and coats Of
arms, suggesting German workmanship;
others arc carved of wood or some one of
the scmi-prccious stones, as the ONYX,
the bloodstonc, the carnclian and the
like, These usually have a base or cup
of gold or silver filigrcc work, and are
usually of French MANUFACTURER although
the carvings may be brought from India,
Switzerland and Italy; yet another is %
silver nlaid with arabnsqucso of gold, and
is evidently Moorish.
Who would suppose that the common
Use of Shoe, and all kinds Of foot cover
ings was Of Il much later date than the
carrying of scent bottles? No one. | am
sure; and yet TIL" people Of certain i.u-
pean countries, long after they had
learned To clotlc their bodies in an cllb-
crate and costly fashion, were in tn"
habit of "SoinS barefootcd." This WAS
the custom even SO late as the Sixteenth
century, and in the Fourteenth warriors
equipped in full armor rode about with.
out amy covering on either feet or legs
below the knees This would seem still
more strange than it docs did one not
rccollcct that even in this enlightened
day the Scots, who would scoril amy sug-
gestion OF barbarism, still clims to their
national dress, which leaves knees wholly
uncovered, despite the cold climate. The
earliest records bear Witness however,
that Moses and Aaron were commanded
to take the shoes from oil tilcic feet be-
fore entering the temple, and in Egypt
at that time the rich anI great wore san
lals incrustcd with precious stones, Of
which the soics were made of gold On
the bottom was engraved the names o!
such people as lad been conquered by
the owners, if they happened to lie OF
the conquerinS sex Sandal, with points
elongated and turned up were the ex-
elusive property of royalty.-Chicago
ueral
Wedding Rings.
II marriage is not a failure there isn't
question as TO the Indifferent regard in
which the wedding ring is held. Even