Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-09-19

and center of the back, feather stitched
on each side, from three TO five tucks
about three-fourths of an inch in width
overlapping each other. The sleeves
full and a simulated cuff carrying out
the design of the waist, when the stitch
ing is done with a good washing silk.
The laundry has no terrors, for the blouse
will wash.
For the tailor gown, that is the gown
for the street per Sc, braiding la mill
taire will be the most fashionable form
of trimming unless fur be excepted; in
this latitude the former will doubtless be
given preference, as more suitable for so
mild climate. With stamping facili-
ties, the braiding is very easily done,
and any clever woman can in her leisure
hours find time to adorn a gown other
wise severe in its simplicity. Cloth of
dark green, brown, blue or claret looks
well braided with black, and with a long
coat to match makes a elegant costume.
Yes, my dear, elegance requires the long
coat; you may have the jacket, but that
is only business like and convenient.
The coat is full dress on the street.
This coat will be Directoire, cut too
stylish to be easily abandoned, and
when you pull down the wide flaps at
the side, stiff with braid, and glance
down at the graceful curve of each
seam in your final peep at the mirror
you will set out on shopping or Wis
iting expedition with a sense of extreme
satisfaction.
Fortunate are you when you adjust
your toque or English turbau if you
can wear catogan braid; need you be
told that this is a large, loose braid
loOped up-the topknot has TO come
down unless one is strong enough to
be singular. And then those prettily
curled bangs, on which you have be-
slowed so much time and labor, well,
they must be turned straight back; If
your prettiness is not sufficient to
warrant so severe a style you may in
dulge in a few mOntagues, and beau
catchers, but these must not show, de-
sign, but seem only to have stTayed From
careful confning. From head to hand is
not much of a reach, and gloves are no
unimportant auxiliary in a woman 8 cos
tuning The latest addition is pocket
glove, or more properly a glove with
pocket in the palm to hold change; some
have one also in the loose. wrinkled top,
and if found as much OF q convenience as
it promises a pocketless sex, its speedy
adoption Is guaranteed, and a saving of
pocket money anticipated.
The H ONE Maker for this month gives
in the fashion department some admir-
able suggestions about looking
ever last winters wardrobe, and
seeing what dresses can be
remodeled, and how to prepare
them for the dressmaker, for careful
ripping and thorough cleansing with am
.monia aud alcohol where there are spots,
often works such wonders that the old
gown skiilfully remOdeled is indeed
'maist as guide as new. From Harper
Bazaar are clipped the following minute
dressmaker s directions for the making of
that new frock as well as the old may be
successfully accomplished by a home
dressmakeT.
1.-The round waist is without darts,
and, paradoxical as it may sound, is
slightly pointed in front and back. 1t
mas but few seams, and may be either
plain or full on the shoulders; IFS fullneSs
below IS Pleated or gathered to the points
at the waist line, and It is trimmed there
by vandyke points of embroidery or of
paSsementeri, or else it is edged by
folded ribbon, fastened by bow without
ends on the left side The round shallow
yoke so often mentioned viii still be
made of velvet, silk, MORE or embroid-
passementerie. The Understanding collar
and mutton-leg sleeves will be made for
most wooden dresses; cloth dresses, how
ever, seldom have full sleeves, as they
cannot be worn under a cloth jacket or
fitted coat.
The skirts of new dresses are hung to
appear almost straight, yet those of
heavy fabrics have one or two short
steels III their foundation skirt, merely
to support them, not 10 add to their
size: the pad bustles are omitted alto
gether. The fronts and sides of many
skirts are perfectly hat, while all are
made full in the back by means of gath
eTs or pleats, or some lengthwise jaDOt
folds. When two materials are used i'll
handsome camelshaiT and velvet dresses,
the velvet is underneath and the soft
wool is slightly draped at the top on
each side, and cut out there to show the
velvet below the belt, and it is again
sIashed open. IN. the front at the foot to
disclose the velvet there also. In other
skirts width of velvet or silk or whatever
the contrasting material may be, appears
down the LETT side quite straight, or else
in the middle of the back: sometimes q
large ornament of passementeTie or q
dropping sash of velvet holds up the left
SIDE OF Inc WOOL SklfJ TO snow Il N6lNSI
skirt beneath. Few pleatings are at the
foot OF skirts; sometimes only a band of
velvet or of wide ribbon, or a facing of
the dress goods, is at the foot of the
foundation skirt. For trimming the out
side of a straight wool dress, no matter
of what color, black borders are used in
rows of velvet ribbon, or else three
straight rows Of open patterned black
paSsementerie, or the single row of van
dyke points of passementeue. -.
NOTES.
Rust color will be the fashionable red
next winter.
Plain high bodices fitting tight to the
figure are quite the mode.
The most suitable travelling dress for
autumn wear is made of blue serge.
Black and white combinations viii
again be fashionable this fall and win
ter.
The newest neekties are made of cleo
trlc blue silk, picked out with tiny white
figures.
Very dressy cloth jackets to wear over
tailor gowns are made with full sleeves
of velvet, much wrinkled about the arm.
Among new autumn headgeaT for
young girls will be hats made of striped
and checked cloths of which men suits
ara made