The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1889-08-18
LOOKING At LA PAZ.
The Americans are Queer Crea-
lures.
SEEING ALL SIDES OLLIE THERE
Dirt and Disorder Reigning Supreme-A
A Readable Collection Of Incidents
COllated and Presented.

La PAz, L. c., Aug. 1, 1SS9.-[Special
Correspondence of THE HERALD. Before
bidding final adois to La Paz, to continue
our journey up the almost
UNKNOWN GULF OF CALIFORNIA,
we determined to view the surroundings OF
this old city. Mentioning our intention
horses were Immediately placed at our dis
posal by the friendly citizens-it being
taken for granted, quite as matter OF
NCOurse, that the expedition would be made
in the saddle, after the universal fashion OF
the natives. But one can have quite
enough of that method of locomotion in the
rural districts of Mexico, and in travers1ng
these long stretches of unoccupied country
between the more thiclly-settled portions
without choosing it in the cities. En-
quiry for a carriage was met by
looks of blank amazement and an ex-
preston on everybody's face that seemed
10 say, "What queer creatures are those
Americans" But so polite are the hospit
able CalifOrnians that had we asked for q
dromedary, an effort would have been made
to crafty us; and after days of delay, a
four wheeled vehicle-yclept cOchG, prob
ably the only one in the southern peninsu-
la-was finally secured. That alleged
coach which it would be no sin to wor-
ship, according to scripture, it being not in
the likeness of anything else-must be seen
10 be appreciated, or rather it must be rid
den in. A long and narrow box, like pi-
ano-case, or a hearse, entirely guiltless OF
springs. mounted high above four ponder
GUS wheels, that swayed this way and that,
each with an independent motion of its own
three backlcss benches inside, covered with
cow-skin, (the hair left on in lieu of other
cushioning)- whole concern topped with
canopy of unbleached cotton, and drawn
by three mules. The Mexican cOcherO-
anxious to do his duty by the strangers
and to prove himself a worthy Jehu-drove
like mao, up hill and down dale, over boulders
and sands and ruts, and ''thank-you-
ma'am," cracking his long whip incessant-
ly, and making the welkin ring with his
'sMllas! A d-G-h-h hr' No wonder
THE NATIVES WERE AsToNIsHED
at our choice. and themselves prefer
journeying in the saddle The cOnsul's
pretty daughter accompanied as a guide
and companion, and the way we were
bounced about and battered black and blue,
and had our bonnets tiattened into shape
less ruins by violent contact with the TOP
of the carriage, was pitiable to behold.
Except in the vicinity of the landing, the
SIfGGIS Oh La d. SG6ll literally uGStIJGu-
save by the dogs, who appear to Outnumber
the human population there three to one
with the usual phenomenon observed in
other parts of the world, that the poorest
people maintain the greatest number of
them. Big dogs and little, aristocratic
CANNES and mOngrels of every description.
followed us in ever-increasing crowds,
each house contributing its quota-all bark
ing in widest excitement at the unusual
nd Stir inc n 6anCn1, clouds
the dust that already enveloped us.
A destructive popularity of this ancient
capital is its lucuriant foliage amid the
!. desert sands-every casa being surrounded
by lovely gardens, and even the humblest
hut embourred amid shrubs and flowers,
with blossoming creepers entwined among
its thatch, under the shelter of a spreading
orange or home granite tree.
Wishing to see all sides of life, we ac-
cepted every invitation, among the lofty
and the lowly, the rich and the poor; and
many pleasant membranes we shall re-
tain of charming entertainments in elegant
homes, and hospitality no less great and
cordial, though Of far humber character,
given to the stranger in a spirit of a synal
kindness. In this aristrocratic mansion of
the wealthiest pearl merchant, we thor
oughly enjoyed a ceremoniOus dinner of
fourteen courses, (all exactly alike, being
MeXican), and came away laden with
recuerdoes, or souvenirs, of rare shells and
beautiful flowers. In another handsome
casa, where we were dined and wined with
a polyglot company, speaking French,
German, Spanish and English, we met the
most beautiful creature 1 have ever seen
"a Mexican widow. But, alas! she was
twenty-four years old-an age considered
passein this warm region, whose G rls marry
at ten or twelve. To northern taste, her
wonderful, soft, dark eyes, clear, olive
skin and perfect features and figure made