Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-10-06

France Wnere Hlno a.
made if you would
like to know something about the nectar Ior
which this country is so famous. Name me
other wines that equal those OF France
Where else can you find such fluids as her
Medocs, Burgundies and sparkling wines!
am fondest of the grand crus OF Sauterne'
or those Bordeaux that have bouquet, I'M
pidity and the transparent color OF ruby,
but champagne is at the head of all of them
as social wine Let me tell you, then, OF
grape gathering as it goes on IN valleys OF
among the hills, where sparkling wines par
excellence are produced, and of which Ay,
Rheims and Eperuay are the chief places.
PICTURESQUE vAGABoNDs.
The main road from Paris to Strasbourg
is filled with these vine-gatherers, as they
call themselves, but thousands of them are
vagabonds. The rascals tramp in separate
bands, and frighten the country people,
from whom they exact food and lodging,
beyond all endurance. Gendsrmes are few
in number, and if all the scamps were
caught their captors would be puzzled to
know where to put them. At Ay these
gentry establish themselves on the banks OF
the canal; and it is a strange sight to see
them in their improvised camps Of an after
noon. Some are washing their clothes or
hanging them to dry on bushes; others are
cooking stolen potatoes over fires OF wood
sneaked from adjacent vineyards, and some
are stretched out on the earth asleep or
playing with dogs-resting themselves for
the exploits of the night to come. a GER
tain number go through the town under the
pretext of searching for work, but In reality
to beg-here a piece of bread, there money
or liquor; they are always 1nsolent and
menacing. to old people.
In the daytime pickets are placed
wherever the necessity is felt, and at night
the inhabitants take up arms and guard
their vineyards. 1t is imprudent to go
from Epernay to Ay og vice versa-a dis
tance OF two miles at most-without good
revolver. Every few moments shadow
emerges from the hedge, and asks you the
time or for a light, and talking is heard
under the bridges where the gangs take
refuge when it looks rainy.
OF THE REAL WORKERS.
The greater number belong in the district
or are from the euvirons. Laboring men
and women from Epernay and Rheims quit
their regular occupation and come to the
vineyards where they can earn more than
usual. There are also a good many who
come from Sainte- Menehould and from Lor-
raine. These latter, or at least those who
bring them, are already known by the pro-
prietors. They have been employed in pre-
ceding years and are informed by letter
when their services will be required. Those
who hail from Lorraine arrive in four
wheeled wagons drawn by mules-long carts
in which % persons manage to pack them
h.
bonnet or handkerchief on their heads, the
men in stout high boots and blouses. Hang
ing from the wagon are baskets for the vint-
age, also packsaddles, which will be hired
at good price to convey to the main roads
the barrels of grapes that are gathered on
the slopes of Hautvillers, Ay and Avenay.
Each party calls Immediately on the pro-
prietor, and he at once forms "hordons,"
that is to say, groups of workmen whom
he requires to vintage such and such field
in the shortest time possible. Everyone,
then, has sleeping place allotted to them,
usually in granary, where a thick bed of
straw has been laid down.
HIRING THE HANDS.
At 3 o'clock in the morning reveille
sounds, but already the market place, or the
square in front of the Mayors office, is
crowded. 1t is the time OF hiring, and those
overseers of the vineyards whose "hordons"
are not vet complete, come here to get the
men and women they need, or the mules and
wagons that they are in want of. Wages
and prices are established according to the
state of the vintage, the weather and the
number of hands seeking employment.
These recompenses vary from one year to
another. In 1888 wages went down as low
as franc, while in the previous year or
francs were paid. The porters of casks are
better paid than are the gatherers of grapes,
which is easily understood, considering their
work is ever so much more fatiguing.
Mules fetch Is or 20 francs the pair some
times more, and one-horse carts bring about
the same.
Engagements made they go to the propri-
etor's house, or to that of the overseer,
where there are boilers of steaming cabbage
soup emitting an appetizing odor. Ven
dangeurs and vendangeuses sit down to the
table, and soup and bread quickly disap-
pear.
WORKING IN THE VINEYARDS.
When all is ready for the start away they
go, stout porters at the head of the column,
and they sing love songs, patriotic songs |
and ditties.
The vines, humid with dew, lie under
floating mist, which, however, slowly disap- |
pears with the first rays of sun. "Serpettes"
or knives are drawn; the vintagers gather
with the greatest care the grapes, which are
placed in casks, and porters convey them to
the road with even more care than ever, for
it is very important that they be not
crushed before being put in the press, other
wise the must is liable to take a reddish
tint that diminishes its market value.
A 4 nnon rhau aof dinnar The az oan
sists of bacon, cheese, plenty of bread and a
little wine. Then the hands lie down for an
hour to sleep. or they go into the woods on
the border Of the vineyard at the top of the
hill. AT nightfall there is q general de-
finished, the "hordons" carry q branch of
flowers decorated with ribbon, they sing the
songs, not quite so lively, perhaps, as they
did in the early morning, and from all sides
IN the calm of that same evening are heard
distant choruses, in which dominates the
SOFT voices of women and children.
PRESSING THE GRAPES.
NOW the pressers come on the scene.
Under the orders Of a master, men fill the
box, then, seizing the large wheels of the
DID machine, they put in action an enormous
screw, crush the grapes, and the amber juice
hows into an oblong vintage tub called the
cuve. This work is all done by candle !
light, and SO the entire night passes, divided
between the working Of the press, which is
hiled and reflled. and games of all sorts,
largely dosed with red wine.
Nearly all the wine produced in the
champagne district is known as the spark
ling kind, and very little red wine exists in
'0@RsEasapy pogstg0P that Part ct ESagasl