, 1889-01-17

sost shape. Importers OF glover have al.
ready prepared for this short sleeve and
tbs gloves for late spring. and for street
wear during the summer. ale eight but
tons In length, and In mousquetaire OF, 10.
Collars remain high, and there are shir-
red gorgets introduced At the throat below
the collar In many OF the new French
plates.
The 6rst woolens imported for early
spring are plain and figured serges. to be
made into combination gowns. The 6g-
ured serRes are genuine broche wooleDs
and are examples OF tho 6ne but laborious
brocade work In use in France before
Jacquard demonstrated that be could do
what Napoleon sneeringly called the impos.
sible. rhe work OF tho jacquard loom
produces tho Hat or sunken brocade, with
which We are VII familiar, but broche work
10 raised like embroidery from the fabric,
aud producrs with artistic fidelity Ia light
and shade the leaf, flower or fruit Of the
pattern used. These realistic flower pat.
terms, copied from old French worsteds.
are feature of the new woolpns. Like
the present epoch of fashion. they
are a genuine protest against the
designs introduced by
the English school. and indicate q revival
In dress and furniture OF period in
French history; and IL must be said that
this reflects no credit on the taste OF the
present time. The great mass of people,
however, find something inexpressibly sat.
isfactory in realistic designs, in strong
contrasts and light colors, and In the Gilt.
ter of tinsel and gems. The new woolens
and some more pronounced colors than any
we have previously seen. Mode colors,
suede colors, pale silvery grays, prayish
empire greens, and, above all, the new
blue green called vertdragon; rosewood
browns, new coppery-red shades, and q
deep blue almost as pronounced as Mazarin
blue are some Of the new colors. The
dragon green and the rosewood browns
promise to be especially popular. The
new blue shades into arayish cadet color.
and Is almost black In it's darkest shade.
The brocaded wo0lens as rule are bor-
dered goods, with border varying from
quarter to three'quarters of . yard In depth
on the lower edge. and An eighth OF yard
10 depth on the urper. edge; as the serge
is forty.eiRht inches wide, IL is still wide
enough after the narrow border ia torn OF
for the depth of an ordinary skirt. In .
few cases the entire underskirt is formed
Of the Dor dered goods, the border extend.
ing entirely Hronnd the bottom, but in
most cases the front breadth. or tablier. is
formed by the bordered goods, when only
a yard and v quarter 10 used. Goods are
also imported in tabliers yard and
quarter long. the broche work extending
across the goods to form border at the
side of the tablier.
Silk. mohair and wool. and combina.
tions of silk and wool and of mohair and
wool, are used to form the favored picture
effect of leaf and flower and fruit on wooden
fabrics. The feur-de-ls. with its long
tremulous leaf and lily, forms the deep,
half.yard border in white on a pale
ground and pale suede
coored serRes are figured in silvery blue
with rushes, sedge. grasses and dock
flowers, suggested no doubt by the de-
signs of South kensin9ton embroideries.
French maryuerites and ferns are other
designs. Wild bramble patterns are fre
quently seen in these broche wooIlens
There are also serges brocaded in all over
the pattern, with large separate leaves like
leaves. and these figured wo0llens
are chosen for side panels, two being used
on either side for the sleeves and trim
ming of dresses other wise made of plain
wool. The use of sleeve OF different ma
terial or color from the gown is a feature
Of the new French plates, and many sleeve.
less jackets will undou btedly be used dur.
ing the coming season over embroidered
corsa9es cut short at the waist. A few
,erRes are shown with wide ribbon Dor.
ders OF siciliene. brocaded with realistic
designs of flower, fruit or leaf, the usual
narrow border appearing at the other side
Of the goods.
The rival of alpaca. especially of the
fne black brilliantines in use many years
k,nA &E kt.,
iantine was used extensively in Paris last
season for Dlrectoire polonaises made up
n combination with moire silk or black
and there is little doubt
hat for useful dresses such gowns will
AXE precedence this summer of cashmeres
md softer wooden goods which have been
made up with silk. The new mohairs are
birty-six to forty inches wide and begin
10 price at 80 cents q yard. Black mo-
,airs will range in quality from this price
lp to an exceptionally lustrous brilliantine
which will be sold at 81 per yard. A
Inc goods of excellent quality will be
old at 81 25 q yard. Colored mohairs are
hown in all shades, in plain, striped and
,laided goods. with borders in plaid
tripes and hair line in shaded effects,
generallJ called Empire" by merchants. |
The deep irregular borders in flower .ffect
ire labeled "Directoire." A fabri, of
ilken mohair similar to the old japanese
ilks is introduced this season, 10 al over
rabesque brocaded pattern. There are
many cOlored moh1irs with borders in ara
'esque pattern in medley of old CASH
mere colors. Borders on these mohair
.oods are narrower than those on the
Voolen serges. and are more frequently in |
he ribbon effect than the broche leaf pat |
ern. A colored mohair with border !
orty inches vide will probably cost about |
Il yard, while the broche bordered |
erges will coat from about "a and upward.