The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1889-08-18
FASHIONS FOR EARLY FALL
The Shops of the MOdistes Give Indica-
tons Of the Approaching Change.
Elegant, Artistic Draperies and Gowns, Which
Must Be Specially Designed and EmbrOid-
ered-Hints About Toilet and Health.
Special to the Indianapolis Journal.

on the swamp naples, and the summer
toilets show signs of wear, tokens that the
season Is in It's last waning quarter. The
town modistes are at work languidly on
dresses foT their regular customers, who
leave orders six months ahead and are con-
tent to have their elegant conservative
materials, Henrietta cloths at s. and Grapes
at So a yard, wait eleven months or so
before they see them home. Life is a
routine of ease and provision for such peo-
pie, who lay out plans three and five years
ahead and lave such a contrast with fate
that things fall out much as they have
ordered. One lady of family and fortune
IN New York, who went into society sell
dom, kept thirty black dresses of sober
good material hanging in her wardrobe.
only six of which, perhaps, were ever
put on in the year. Nevertheless,
each season, she had them vigorously
altered to suit the mode and put them by.
to be saving of them, as her ancestresses
were when brocades or stutfs were bought
for a lifetime. What comfort we might
have now if clothes and house linen were
made up to last for ten years. There are
line old chintyes and India silks up in the
attic of this house which were made when
The Recamier style was originally in vogue,
with full, short waists cut on the bias. and
slender glgot sleeves, and there is as much
wear in the fabric now as in half on the
counters to-day. Isn't it better to pay a
dollar q yard for print, as women did fifty
years ago. and have some good of it, than
10 make up six cheap dresses for the wear
of onei i know an artistic lady given to
etudious pursuits, who seriously plans for
herself,s to have fine, firm, unbleached
p%ottons and linens dyed art %colors. indigo
blues, light and dark old reds and
pinks and logwood dahlia shades, and make
them up in pretty and becoming styles not
TO be altered until the gowns wear out.
For a woman no longer young the idea is
taste. her toilet would always wear a dis
tinetion; only 1T takes a woman of figure
and breeding to carry out individuality
like this.
Speaking of special styles, the artistic
thing now is to design your own patterns
hor draperies or dress and have them print
ed as well as embroidered for you. A very
pretty set of curtains for a country house
where something was desired that would
wash and wear. was of the best unbleached
sheeting, a yard and a half wide, at %
cents or less, which went to III artist fur
nisher to be stamped in various
floral patterns, wild clematis in greeniSh
white blossoms and dull leaves.
in old pink single roses or blue
succory stars, of that soft lovely hue which
makes beautiful the waysides now in all
New England. The are cut by hand
and dyed IN fast %colors, without finish, and
on the mellow ground the quaint. pleasing
designs nave an excellent air of use and
charm. The French houses choose the
ing in. h~ydrangea and hawthorn patterns
for "chateaus In cretonne." Some artist
writer tells of castles above the Tweed
where boudolrs are furnished in white bro
R0ha M alI mn Annb AnH
to suit some grand dame. but equal refine
ment, and more, is conveyed by the linen
coverings kept fresh by constant washings.
The sofa cushionsi in linen damask are SO de-
liciously cool on a hot day; soft linen cur
tains smelling of dried roses have an
elegance the white velvets never know.
You can't get 1T with the pounds of pot
pourri you buy. which has a culinary smell
one out of 1--we hundred has the gift of max
ing %potpourri as it should be. with the
scent of flowers rather than the pantry
sPlee-boN. The new English perfume IS
white clover, the breath of meads and
honey scent Breathed with open windows
In a long cool summer room, furnished i'll
white mating and bamboo, with turquoise
linen curtains and cushions, it harInonizes
benlgnly. Such a room, to be in keeping,
requires the fashionable cut crystal globes
for roses, the clear glass lily vases and tall
silver lamps. with primrose, saffron or tur-
quoise silk shades. The most elegant suits
Tor country houses are white mahogany, n
clear wood like hickory with a rich cream
tint. made in the simplest lines, with a
Hbevel of high polish or a bead of carving
in slight relief and the finest effect. There
is a reaction from the bold renaissance
carving which educated modern eyes grow
very tired of Ill a few seasons, and the
. richest suites are in studied plainness and
perfect finish. i really think Boston is the
place to buy artistic furniture at reasona-
BILE cost. One of the artistic shops, whose
name Is q guarantee of fine workmanship
n absolute taste, will sell You beautifully
finished suites in choice woods, something
out of the common i'm material and design
from s44 to $50, which my dear New York
dear sometimes in a double sense, / regret
TO say-would not sell for less than So to
S125-machine-made at that. A very pretty
style for ornamental pieces, upright pianos,
for instance, has lncised or sunk carving
IN dull wood in a polished panel, with the
effect of rich engraving. Cherry wood. in
its light natural color, highly polished, is
quite as admired as mahogany, and it is
our Northern mahogany, Tor all intents and
purposes.
Some pretty individual conceits in fur
nlshlngs are noted. What to do with pho
1ographs is often a question. and the last
way OF disposal Is mounting them IN the
upper panels of a folding screen, where
they are fitted in silk. plush or cretonne fiat
borders, With isinglass slipped over the
picture In lieu of glass. Below is q ten
inch space of polished wood, with shallow
rallied shelf to hold china, and drawn silk
or cretonne below. An octagon tea-table
has large cabinet photos arranged below
the border, with wood frames and isinglass
face. which Is much lighter and less likely
to break than glass. Or n row may be set
on the wall like tiles, with flat wood franz
ing and beveled glass over each, which
helps the tile effect. Choicer views or
fancy pictures are set in long plain frames.
n wide view. for instance, In the middle
and panels of cabinet size at each
end. The fancy for grouping small
pictures in one frame is old fashioned
and in good effect, for related
scenes or portraits have an intelligent in
terest which adds To their sentiment and
value. A frame full of Mary Anderson's
pictures is very ornamental, for She is bet
ter in photographs than in anything else.
In her dashing Directory dress and plumed
hat, voluminous muslin and lace crayat
and cane she looked a feminine Lovelace. or
a beauty of the last century just ready to
elope If You gave her "A chance, and her
various pictures in park dress were perfect
studies of costume. Her last pictures
awaken regret. for they tell that i'll fate
of some sort has gone over her. She looks
as if she had IA love affair and her heart
had been broken. or else she had been con-
verted; she who used TO look like nothing
so much as a tiger cat of a woman; she who
has played with and tortured many hearts
mas met her fate and grown better for IL.
she looks as If for the first time she had
come IN possession OF a soul.
A lot OF new photographs every month
gives more news of celebrities than the pa
ptrs. The time will come when our news