Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-01-13

lOCdIlOOS d1sC
MS to q great extent in
the antiquity and
ouaintness of its
structures, its many and winsome crannies,
corners, hooks and lanes, and the rich
arches, gables and heraldIc devices of Its
moldy buildings. But its deepest interest
to the appreciative observer lies in the dis
tinct and colorful character of its people
and those of its environs classes among
whom are so peculiar that novelist or
painter could here find as rare studies for
pen or pencil as could be anywhere discov-
cred within the most unique communities Of
Europe.
1t is wild, drear land and coast where
the ancient seaport lifts its gray walls
against perspectives of desolate, rock-cov-
cred reaches, the weird, lone metropolis of
the West But there is dreamful vista
across the majestic bay, where ships no
more will come and only the fishers sail is
seen, stretching westward from the huts of
Claddagh, far and far to the thunderous sea.
To the north creep blanched, walled roads,
rising in graceful curves, terrace-like
lengths, or in sharp, zig-zag lines, pushing
on and over and again up the Conemara
heights to the frowning headlands of wild
Cloghmore. To the south lies a circling
shore traced by brown and snowy lines
where the fretful tides have left their spume
and drift. Behind this the blue hills of
Clare invite to mystic regions beyond, and
rise IN graceful undulations toward the
west, until, as far as the sight can penetrate,
the dim outlines of grewsome Black Head
pierce the horizon; and here are ever tre-
mendous
ELEMENTAL STRUGGLES
between sea and land. Perhaps so miles
away, at the mouth OF Galway Bay, be-
tween Black Head and Cloghmore, stand
the Arran Islands, where live, or exist,
5000 wretched beings whose hearts have so
grown to these hags'-teeth Of the sea that
they cannot be wheedled away, but stay and
starve and die. North, south, west, and
here at the east in Galway town, are the
strangest, ruggedest, most starved, yet brave
and CHEEKY, souls that live; and between
wild seaport and wilder sea naught can be
seen Indicating the activities of men, save
the ragged fishers sail, an infrequent gov
ernment mail and coast service boat, and
now and then a rude curragh gliding over
the waters, Just as il did thousand years
ago; while the wheeling gulls whirl, whistle
and gurgle as if in surprise at the desolate
loneliness, where should ride the traffic
giving merchant navies of the world.
Unquestionably Galway is one of the
most ancient of Irish cities. 1t was the ell
lustrious city of Naganta" of Ptolemy's
second century Geographic. Its records are
as dim as its olden structural glories are
ruinous and defaced. But during the first
1,5OO wears Of the Christian era its trade
with Mediterranean ports was constant and
important. To such degree was this true
that its rare old legends are as full of the
half-Latin taint and the halt Moorish weird
ness as Valladolid and Barcelona are
to-day rich with the arabo-morescos
and arabesques which were indelibly
wrought upon them during the same period.
The traces of these former far-away in
fuences linger in old Galway as surely upon
architecture as upon people, evidences of
the latter forming one of the most curious
and entertaining studies in Ireland. Here
are the narrow, winding streets across
which lovers, friends and goss1ps could ex-
change greetings and garrulousness, and
almost clasp hands, from upper windows in
the olden days, as now. In this dark nook
are broken wall lowering upon delicate
balcony, minareted roof leaning upon six
teenth century shoulders, Normandy gables
protruding over window-work of flowing
tracery, and arabesque devices cut
upon Elizabethan sternness CT castellsted
chimney.
QUAINT ARCHITECTURE.
A wild conglomorate in architecture seems
to have taken possession of the spot, as
though the fanciful Moorish thought, the
early German point and peak, and the
rugged Anglo-Norman severity had, in some
ethical-architectural conflict, waged war for
leaving their impress upon posterity's sight
and mind. In this narrow way are arch
gigantic, corbel huge and gargoyled, and
balconied latticework as light and graceful
as though the foam of the sea, or a mass of
spectral ferns, had been flung into tremen-
dous walls by fairy architects of night. In
that deep court are mullioned windows,
sculptured gateways, Fashioned angles, iron
wicket work, and early Moorish things that
awaken historic memories of Southern Eu-
rope for a Thousand years that are gone.
You will find a startling similarity to the an
cient architectural fancies prevalent in the
older cities of Spain, also traceable in many
of the cities of the Riviera, of memorable
ing family history, accentuating personal
distinction, pronouncing family peculiarly.
belief or Distinguishing trait, or heralding
title or degree, in sculptural device, over
doors, on lintels beneath balconies, within
or upon arches, and in all manner of un-
reasonable and unexpected places. No city
in the United Kingdom is so rich in display
of "eoat-armor 1t is found upon the most
ancient structures; is still profuse upon
those of a later period; and even in the
most modern buildings-for there are few
structures of Importance in the old city of
the present or past century-architectur
and this manner of decoration have a warm
and glowing likeness to that Of the past
A STRANGE OLD STRUCTURE.
Perhaps the best illustration may be found
in a strange old structure standing on one of
the principal thoroughfares of Galway. This
is "Lynch's Castle" famous in romancer's
tales, but very plain and ugly to an eve al
ready accustomed to the extraordinary and
profuse architectural remains of surprising
beauty throughout Ireland Its form is that of
q huge square keep or castle of retreat, such as
are found standing in lonely grandeur and de-
cay throughout Ireland and with surprising fire.
quency along the Bride and Blackwater of the
South. Rude windows and arched gateways
have been cut here and there, evidently as
civilization gradually assured their propriety.
Around and over IL Of these have been chiseled
some of the richest, quaintest and most gro
tesque devices of this class to be found in
Europe. Members of the proud family
who erected and occupied this cas-
tie had for their armorial bear
ings, or crest, the elaborately-caryed figure of
lynx, which is yet to be seen over the gate
ways of their various habitations. One family
chose most hideous cross-bones and skull in ]
black marble for its crest. Their ancient
home is still found in Lombard street, which is
called Dead Mans Lane" aad beneath this
singular piece of hersldic device is carved the |
doleful motto. Remember Death-Vanit of
VaniJi, and All is But Vaniti." The huge old |
Lynch's Castle recalls a curious history and
story. AT the beginning of the thirteenth |
century the Anglo-Norman De Burghos and |
followers settled in and about Galway. These |
IN time became known as The Tribes of Thir- |
.teen," from which fact Galway has taken the |
eobriquet of the City Of the Tribes. An old |
Quatrain preserves their names: |