Los Angeles daily herald., 1889-09-02

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of the skirt in upturned points, or in one
or two much larger points, called Tour
Eiffel designs, because they are broad at
the base and grow slender at the top,
which reaches more than hallway up the
skirt; this trimming is directly in front,
or it may be on both sides of the skirt.
On the waist the braiding comes from the
sides, beginning just under the arms, or
it Stimulates round yoke, or is in Van
dyck points from the collar down, with
also girdle.
A novelty among long wraps, called
the Ursuline cloak, is conventional gar
ment similar to those worn by nuns. 1t
covers the wearer from throat to foot,
has hood and nuns sleeves, and cord
as thick as a rope, like friar's girdle,
tied around the waist. 1t is made of
thick, soft camel's-hair cloth, in dark
carmelite brown shades, and is lined with
thick silk. The girdle is wool cord, and
the garment is entirely without trim.
ming. Other long cloaks are of Broche
cloth, figured all over, or of the new bor-
dered cloths with broad stripes at the
foot, or with corner pieces in stripes
down the front and across the foot, while
still others are of the soutache cloth
woven to represent braiding in all-over
designs.
Terra-cotta is a fashionable color for
silk and velvet mantelets, as we'll as for
clo 9TH jackets. The cloth is often trimmed
with a beaded edging or fringe Of black
silk gimp, jet being reserved for the
silken fabrics. Long cloaks and pelisses
of more sober description than the
ducal garments just limited at are some
times made with double sleeves, the un-
der pair almost tight fitting; yet the
long, straight sleeves falling to the hem
Of the cloak are still maintained, and
upon them are lavished the braiding or
whatnot which forms the trimming, the
ends being left comparatively plain. The
full cloaks gathered or plated into the
figure at the back only, such as now worn
in shot silk, are reproduced in woollen
s.tlffs for autumn-now they are mounted
on braided yoke, at other times they
are shaped to the shoulder by means OF
gathers and short, round cape is added.
Some of the new "art" sleeves are 80
odd in style as to approach the gro
tesque. Many of the shapes are becom-
ing only to women of medium build.
Shirred, pufed, smoked and plated
sleeves are seen everywhere, and these
are shaped in endless ways, some being
puffed from the shoulder to the elbow
while others are closely gathered into a
tight cuff. There are large balloon-like
'puffs strapped or banded at intervals
with wide ribbon. These are not pretty
but they are fashionable. Others again
have puff on the shoulders, with a
plain, close sleeve below, finished with
deep Cromwellian cuff at the wrist.
Numberless combinations are made with
these various elements. Bands of white
and gold galloon are passed down the
outside of the arm through full perpen-
dicular puffs that spread out at each
side. Close coat sleeves srs very much
trimmed at the upper arm near the
shoulder, either with caps, braids or
chevrons, or gimp-edged points and silk
cord arabesques in fanciful devices;
while on some of the new "art" toilets
the open, flowing sleeve of our grand.
mothers time again appears, worn with
an embroidered undersleeve, as Of old.
Ostrich feathers - straw-color and
black, and Of light tints shaded off to
dark-wings and ribbons are the favorite
decorations for smart hats, whether the
foundations be straw, velvet or felt, the
last of which is likely to come into wear
early this season. Milliners combine
colors freely, and yellow and green vel.
vet ribbons are introduced into mixtures
Very pretty hats are tnauss' OF td1fau
tulle, more often black, yellow or scar
let, and trimmed with black and colored
wings. The same things are used for
bonnets, though the most conspicuous
novelty in the way of trimming is the
new jet in the form of sprays, coronets,
bands, stars and so on, of which the
marchauds de nouveautes show a large
assortment. Set among billowy tulle or
combined with velvet, China Grape, or
any other of the fashionable materials,
they have very pretty effect. Milliners
are doing great deal this season with
terra-cotta shades and other reddish
browns. Green is almost as fashionable
as ever, especially in very pale shades
and deep emerald tones. At the same
time there is decided leaning toward
heliotrope and the particular shades of
vieux rose that lead up to it.