The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1889-11-30
THE no M e.

New York, exhibited at the Vendome in
Boston last week, and will give the lady
readers Of the PRESS some of the new fea-
lures which l observed.
The short coats are trife longer than for
the last few seasons, and in as high favor as
the long coats, cloaks and mantles. The first
choice seems to be for the smooth faced
cloths on which braid and fur are lavished
in proportion, as ones purse will permit
Indeed this is season of fur. In many of
the dressy coats, vests are added, and these
are sometimes wholly of fur to match that
with which the jacket is b0rdered or simply
edged. In some there is a vest of cloth en-
tirely covered with braiding, and In many
the entire garment is covered with small
all-over design.
Draperies still favor the clinging effects
The straight lines broken here and there by
the careless lifting of the drapery to disclose
a skirt of brocade or a panel braided in
arabesque pattern.
AS to color, the darker tints prevail. but
| saw much of the Suede cOl0rs, the greys, the
| rich puppies, and the red that the cardinals
| love so WE'LL" besides many new indescrib-
| able tints which are exclusively Redferns' as
| he has them dyed at his own factories. A
| coat of green cloth had a vest of Suede color
braded In green and gold, combination of
color always stylish and pleasing. The gold
| en- otter was used for border and hariDg
| collar. Another that was much admired was
| OF Eiffel red braided in black and edged with
| black ostrich feather trimming. A ruche of
the feathers is around the neck and sleeves
| and feather boa accompanies this dress.
Bias bands of velvet trim many of the
skirts, being about four or five inches in
| width and on either side furnished with a
braiding of gold and silver.
The full baggy sleeves of plush are seen on
| many of the cloth garments, sometimes
1 gathered into narrow band at the wrist:
| others have deep cuff of the cloth which is
| fos aA uit Ill hat nd lnnnc nfc
| cord
Redfern's style is truly his own; and his
creations are marvels of beauty aud richness.
| A very novel feature is that of braidng on
| fur, none of which | think has been shown
previous to this winter, and can be used
| only by an artist in this line to produce fine
effects The Dlrectoire style with seams on
the hips-with or without the large pocket
| flaps still holds its own. ANNA DOVE.
LITERARY SALAD.
A very pretty and effective. entertainment
came within my experience short time ago,
says writer in good housekeeping. 1t was
what is called six o'clock tea for young la
les. the guests numbering about seventy-five'
After supper was served, the hostess brought
in on large silver tray, what appeared to
be heap of the freshest of lettuce leaves,
crinkled and tender looking; at the stem of
each was a slip of white paper, on which
were written familiar quotations flOm stand
ard authors, the attention of the company
who had risen from their seats, and were
engaged in social converse, was attracted by
the call OF a bell, when the hostess announc-
ed that she would further serve her guests
by giving them Literary SALAD; each was
to take a leaf and guess the author of the
quotation; should she guess rightly she was
t. keep the leaf and to wear it in her corsage;
III she could not guess, il must be returned to
the platter. and she might have the privilege
of trying again and as many times as she
liked. Those who guessed correctly could
also repeat the trial; one or two succeeded
in securing a large corsage bouquet of the
leaves while some obtained none at all
To make the leaves for the literary salad"
get some tissue paper of light green shade,
as near the color of tender lettuce leaves as
possible; cut in shape like the leaf, leaving
little strip at the bottom for pasttng on the
| quotation, notch the edges and then fold
over lengthwise through the. middle, slip
over hair-pin on this fold and press closely
| together in the rounding part of the pin,
| then take off and if it is rightly done the
centre Of the 10 fw'll be beautifully crinkled;
write your quotation on slip of paper,
number it and paste on the little strip of
| tissue paper left below the leaf. Have a
| book with corresponding number in it with
the authors name, that you may be able to
tell when the quotations are rightly guessed.
THE wIsEsT WOMAN.
According to the Inter Ocean, the CAD
about has always been condemned by press
and preacher, and the woman who stays at
| home held up as the pattern of wifely and
womanly protection. But it has never &C.
CURED to any one that the woman who gets
no glimpse of the outside world, who has no
| opportunity to measure her mental and
moral stature py the mental and moral
| stature of others, grows narrow, querulous
| and exacting. She is an absolute authority
| IN her own domain, and there is no appeal
l 49, I,A,. hi
| She sees nothing, and, unless she has love
| for books, which, strangely enough, such
| women rarely have, her mind is concentrated
upon the petty details of housekeeping, and
the affairs of her neighbors-what Mrs.
Brown wore, what Mrs. Smith had for tea
when she entertained the minister, what
| dreadful creatures the johnson children are,
| and how sh0ckingly that Miss Thompson
carries on. These are the themes that Occu-
| py her tongue, and the mind that, from want
of use, grows feebler and narrower from day
| to day.
A wise old man remarked that the reason
so many old people lost their memory was
because they had never learned anything
difference of women. If they 60 from
home. not to the neglect of home and child
rem, but enough to see what life is like. they
are laying up fund of knowledge that shall
keep them young at three score.
1t is observable that when even an ordinary
woman goes from home for few weeks or
few months she goes back enlightened with
what she has seen, and it is of this that she
talks. The women who are the most enter
tanning, who are most agreeable, and whose
suciety does not tire are not those who have
spent all their days knitting in the chimney
corner, or within the four walls of the
kitchen porting Ov a cook book. However
men may profess to love this purely domestic
character, they tire Of it as they would tire
of an unreieved diet of bread and honey.
They like the sauce piquant of bright talk,
bright wit, knowledge of affairs, and, what
ever nature may have done in the best0wal
of talent, il rusts if it is not kept bright by
attrition will the. The very man who talks
longest and loudest of "w0manly women"
by which he means those who stay at home
constantly. is usually the first to seek the
society of the more entertaining woman
whenever be has an opportunity.
JEWEL SUGGESTIONS.
Garnet preserves health and joy.
Emerald promotes friendship and con-
stancy of mind.
All precious stones are said to be purified
by bath in honey.
Agate quenches thirst, and if held in the
mouth allays fever.
Amethyst banishes the desire for drink
and promotes chastity.
Diamond produces SomnambuliSm .and
promotes spiritual ectaSy.
Opal is fatal to love and sows discord be-
tween the giver and receiver.
MOonstone has the virtue of making trees
fruitful and of curing epilepsy.
Sapphire produces somnambulism and i'm
pels the wearer to all good works.
Topaz is favorable to hemOrrhages, i'm
parts strength and promotes digestion.
Coral Is taliSman against entertainments,
thunder, witchcraft and other perils of flood
and field.
Loadstone produces scmnambulism, is
dedicated to Mercury, and In metallgury
stands for quicksilver
Cats eye is considered by the Cingalese as
charm against witchcraft, and TO be the
abode of some good genii
Amber is cure for sore throat and all
creton of birds tears.
Crystal induces visions, promotes sleep,
and insures good dreams 1t is dedicated to
the moon, and in metallurgy stands for silver.
Onyx contains in it an Imprisoned devil,
which wakes at sunset and causes terror to
the wearer. disturbing sleep with ugly
dreams.
Turquoise, given by loving hands carries
with 1t happiness and good fortune. Its
color ALWAYS males when tile well being of the