The daily citizen. [volume] (Asheville, N.C.) 1889-1890, 1889-08-23
EUROPEAN LETTERS.
THE VARIED CHARMS OF BA,
DEN-BADEN.
The Trip Through Black Forest
ArOuSes NIunchausen ReCOIIec-
tIOns In the Mind of tile TraV-
eIer-The Trees Like Ours.
BADEN-BADEN, August 7, 1889.

BADEN-BADEN, August {, 1889.
Editor Citizen The fact that this re.
nowned place has lost its character as a
gambling spa matters very little to yout
correspondent, as his purse is not SO pie
thoric as to require depletion, and al
that is needed to make it perfectly beau
tiful, still remains.
Providence has smiled on us by giving
a bright sunshiny day, which is the only
thing that could possibly add to the ell,
joymcnt of this lovely spot.
Leaving Heidelberg this morning at an
early hour, we soon recognized the dark
hues of the Black Forest which brought
to mind our boyhood's recollection o
Baron Munchausen, although we arc not
altogether sure that this is the scene o
his wonderful exploits. crthclcss, aus
we took most charming drive this after
noon through the Sombrc balSamS which
gives the name to the forest, as they dc
to our Black mountain, we innCied we
could see the very spot where the deer had
the cherry tree to grow out of his fore
head, and where the frozen music was
thawed out, and the wild boar killed i'll a
manner so terribly tragic. 1t suited very
well, whether our memory OF the location
From Heidelberg our train skirtcd Il
range of mountains until it reached Oos
where an opening seemed suddenly to
break through them, disclosing sweet
quiet valley, into which Il connecting
road quickly carried us, and landed us on
the banks of one of the most sparkling
streams we have ever scotland there VIC
were at the famous Baden-Baden.
We are certainly glad that the govern
mcnt has put an end to the gambling
which has given it SO unsavory a rcputa.
ton, because surely in no spot could hui
man wickcdnesS seem more out OF place
1t appears designed by the great Creator
to be exactly what it now iS-a pleasant
resting spot for men and women wcaricd
with the labors of life and seeking rccu.
pcration of strength to fit them for theiI
future struggles. This is exactly what
Badcn-Badcn is suited to be, and what
we conceive that it is. Probably it is by
some considered and used as a fashion
able retreat, but we have been troubled
not at all by this characteristic, and have
only had time to sip its great pleasures.
Even a spot of such marvellous httrac'
tiuns would fail to please unless the wea'
ricd Traveller can be comfortably lodged
and fed, and this we find once more at
hand, thanks to our Cooks coupons
which secure us rooms, Notwithstanding
the crowd, at the Hotelde Holland, in all
respects most desirable hostclry, witt,
polite and courteous landlord and subor.
dinates. What relief after our London
experience.
We advise all persons coming to Europe
to 20 first to Cooks office, and with his
help to map out their proposed tour, buy
their tickets and provide themselves will
hotel coupons for every day they expect
to be absent from the United States. We
heard many opinions expressed on this
subject and hesitatcd as to the wisdom
of investing i'll these coupons, but our eX
pericnce with them has been most salts
factory. The hotels to which they have
admitted us have been uniformly good
and most important point is that they
dispense with extras, which so annoyed
lis otherwise. Whether the cost of trav
cling with them is greater we cannot tel
certainly, but think it is the cheapest
way, considering the character of The
accommodations provided, and it Ger
tainly saves a vast amount of trouble ii
buving tickets at each station and decid
ing on hotel in strange place.
We started to say, before this digrcs
sion, that, leaving Heidelberg at an early
hour, we skirted the Black Forest, pass
ing through a well cultivated section o
country which was devoted to crops
with which we are familiar, such as to
bacco, corn (maize), beets, oats, etc.
Ulooking in good order, especially Tho
tI,,. .' eco, which reminds us to advise Oui
wv" q friends to send here for theil
: hey can get them home free o
s"IS; S;d,,s >ustom house duties, as to
I' NV. ,.'o Ln,,,,h + an excellent one, such as
uaE W. "ho,';i1a uT a., 'uld sell for thrcc-for-a
quarter, for the SIN. III sum 0i SIN plehllfnSs "
or one and half ccl. tS' Al most OF ln'
tobacco stands we are rSin'lNiell .a q, oi''
State by seeing the fan. H,n! :" Hi,n n,ns :"
Dukes cigarettes, of w. Ncn InV Plc'
seems very high, so that we 'ihHt nTJ"''
them and adopt Dutch cigars nou
1t is not only the crops of this copiltiy
which resemble ours, but many ., 10y
shade and forest trees are almost '''enl'
cal. We do not know by what ma anI'
they may be called here, but recognl%'
readily our old friends, the locust, thI
mountain BIRCH the Lombardy poplar
the dark black balsam, tall frs orsprlicc
the catalpa and the hideous alianthus, al
of which, while reminding us pleasantly
of our dear home, surprise us to hnd then
in this comparatively low section.
Immediately after being ensconcec
safely IN our rooms, we sally forth to see
sights, and until our table d'hote, at th'
old fashioned hour of one p. M, we ENJOY
a charming walk over the greenest o
grass tho signs to keep OIL J, by th'
brightest of flowers i'll endless protuslon
and around the most admirably designed
fountains, which, from piles OF hug
stone, shoot aloft most delicate ant
graceful spray ofmist, rather than water
which falls not into an orthodox circular
basin, but keeps moist the surrounding
lilies, and then flows secretly away b,
some hidden aqueduct.
Our walk discloses also some most elc
giant buildings, admirably adapted Il
their various purposes. Among then
one that is called conversation house
to which we are admitted for the smal
fee ofone mark, which entities us to atten'
both an afternoon and evening concert Q
the most heavenly music.
The interior of this conversation l
most deliberately fitted up as reading
and concert halls, but chiefly were W
attracted by its ball rooms, of which W
cannot resist the effort to give you
very faint description.
Four in number, they are named /
honor of four French Kings, Louis Mi
XIV, XIV and XVI, and each vies wit
each in absolute splendor.
First in order, that OF Louis XIII
measuring 65x65 feet, its walls and cei
ing frescoed in most subdued tints; It
rich dark floor of highly polished oak, ii
viting our old stiff shanks to try polk
or mazurka; lighted by five large chand'
iicrs, each bearing seventy candles, whic
are multiplied thousand fold by til
bright gilt, and flashing crystal of whic
their holders are composed, while aroun
the walls one hundred and fifty gas jet
are modified by shades of ground glass
lighting up the hazy fountains, which
four in number, add to the fairness of til