Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1889-09-26
FANCIES IN MILLINERY.

FANCIES IN MILLINERY.
All About Bonuets. Toques, Turbans and
Large Hats.
The new autumn bonnets are of me-
dunn sizes, or else very small low
shapes with long crowns, to be worn
with low hair. The front of the brim
may be straight o, irregularly in
dented, or be slightly rolled back in
coronet shape. and may have short
round sides, giving the effect of
toque, and requiring the strings to be
placed behind, at the end of the crown.
Smooth felt and velvet are the materi-
ais most used, and there are heavy
straw bonnets that will be worn
throughout the autumn. A novelty is
open-patterned lace-like insertions in
felt bonnets, precisely like those worn
now of straw, from three to five inser-
tions an inch wide passing around the
brim and crown. Crocheted silk cord
bonnets are also new, and are in all
the new colors. Braiding on the brim
of felt bonnetS is another feature,
black braid being on the brim of the
new torra-cotta Called EiffeD, on
mahogany, brown, and green felt bon
nets, while the crown is left quite
plain. as the trimming is now massed
there. An odd-shaped bonnet of felt
is like tOque, with a second small
crown added low at the back, as if to
cover the low Catogan loop of hair.
The low long tOques worn during
the summer reappear in lace, felt and
velvet for the next season. The round
box turbans. with brim turned up close
all around the crown, are the English
hats most highly thought of by mil
liners, and recall the pork-pie turban
worn long ago. English walking hats
have lower crowns than those now
worn, and many have the brim turned
up behind as well as on each side.
One of the few really new shapes has
the brim rolled up widely in front and
on the sides, and pointed fiat behind,
to rest on the low braid. The large
round hats have very low crowns. and
their brims project in front, either
quite straight, or else they are pinched
in one or two places, or are merely
waved or curved, while there is scarce
ly any brim at the back.
Ribbons, velvet. embroidery and
fancy feathers are the trimmings most
used in millinery. Black trimmings on
colored bonnets will remain in vogue.
Double-faced satin ribbons are the
latest caprice of Paris milliners, but
gros grain. faille. striped, and velvet
ribbons are also largely used, the latter
in widths varying from one to two
and a half inches. Flat straight edges
or else merely a cord finish all new
ribbons. Velvet cut bias forms huted
edges of bonnets, or extends over the
brim of bOnnets, toques. and round
hats alike, for the last half covering
the brim inside and outside alike. All
made crowns are lengthwise in soft full
folds coming up from the back of the
crown, and trimmings on smooth hats
have this same effect to heighten the
crown from the back. Embroideries
on cloth, on velvet, and on thin net or
silk mousseline, and metallic embroid-
cries on camers-hair, come in open de-
signs and most varied colors, all black,
or black with gold, or black with many
colors, and are done in silks, in tinsel
threads, in beads, and also in chenille
of very fine strands and close pile that
will not fray. Jet will be used again,
especially in bandeau of large faceted
pieces, sometimes with pendants, on
colored bonnets, on black bonnets, and
on round hats. There are also BAN
deaux of jet leaves, and OF rosebuds
with yellow plush for the petals, and
fine Jet beads on their calyces and
stems; large jet butterflies, and jet
stars of great size, fern leaves, aigrettes,
pompons, and fountain-like sprays of
Jet are on either black or colored bon
nets. For the first dark bOnnets are
large fruits, peaches of emerald hue,
and grapes with their bloom admirably
copied in shaded velvets, with also
plums, prunes, cherries and berries.
Large soft flowers have some of their
petals of silk and others of velvet, in
order to get delicate shadings; roses,
dahlias. and peoples are made in this
way in the refined shade Of red-purple
called scabieuse, in rich yellow boHton
dor and in bright coquelicot red
Harper's Bazaar.
Farmers sho uld be as familiar with
the grasses they tread upon as with
the letters of the alphabet. Young
persons in the country would find it an
interesting experiment to make col