The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1889-12-22
FARM AND GARDEN.
OF INTEREST TO CUlTlVATORS OF
LARGE kNO SMALL FARMS.
and Keep Grado-How to Dig the Ditch
Covering OF the Tiles.

and Keep Grado-How to Dig the Ditch
es-Directions About the Laying and
Covering OF the Tiles.
W. j. Chamberlain. Of the Iowa Agri.
cultural college. contributes to Country
Gentleman some practicalhints on drain
| age, which are Of general interest. First.
he tells that the mains ought TO follow
the natural depressiOns where the water
runs off upon the surface in wet times,
of course Strengthening the crooks some
what. If there il a regular slope like the
roof Of Il house. only not 50 steep, the
mains should take the. Of place the caves
troughs. and the laterals. if any, should
run straight down the slope as nearly as
may be. If the fall IS very slight. it may
need a field leveling instrument TO lay
out the system. But usually q very wet
time is the best to locate drains. \ fur
I row plowed then by the eye will work
its w grade or show 1t.
Ii You have not a ditching machine
use a heavy working pillow to throw out
the first eight or ten inches. drive
straight. Begin the spade digging at
the outlet and work along up the mains
and latcrals. The water will show the
level. Permit no dips or dcpressisns.
Dig as narrow and true as possible to the
required depth, and groove the bottom
Of the ditch with a bottoming scoop Of
size adapted TO thetiles used. The grade
may be nearly established with the pillow
blowing deeper through knobs and
shallower through depressions, then dig
two or three depths OK the spade accord
ing to depth required, keeping the spade
ut the same angle all the time, and
thrusting it full depth each time. If
there is no water in the soil to show level.
the surest way is to draw some into the
field. and when your eye or the span
level says your groove IS cut straight
and true for a hundred feet or more.
turn in just enough water at the upper
end TO test it. II it stands anywhere in
long puddles, you must cut down the
high portions until no puddles remain.
Mr.. Chamberlain makes the span level
thus; Take three pieces Of by . inch
pine batten 81 feet long, halve them to-
sether with screws firmly mt the ends in
The form 81 an cquilateral triangle. Then
half way up from II side, b C, and ex
actly parallel to il. screw on n fourth
piece d Z (see figure. To the side OF the
cross piece. Il G screw "a common IS cent
spirit level. T z, 80 that when b C stands
On a level floor the air bubble shall show
level, and its middle be the middle of he.
Change the triangle end for end ON the
floor, 10 be sure your spirit level is ex-
actly parallel with the bottom Of b C..
Then if you want 10 graduate it raise
b ! inch at a time. leaving c resting on
the floor, and mark the brass Of the
spirit level for each quarter and halt
inch up to two or three inches. Then
raise c in the same way and graduate
the other side.
Before the groove Is cut in the bottom
Of the ditch this span level may be ap
piled all along. and show the cxac: fall
per rod. Then the groove cutter ear
take out humps. and the level test It,
work. is half n rod long, and so one
quarter inch fall for ia length makes one
half inch fall per rod. and 50 on. Never
be content unless your level shows some
fall towards your outlet. The more uni
form the fall the better. II yon know.
for example, that your fall Is only one
half inch per rod, You must keep your
grade down to about that rate. not vary
ing. or you will have trouble. Begin
ming at tho lower end tho tendency OF q
new hand IS % close grade" that l., t.
work towards the surface. The span
level will help prevent this.