Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1889-11-23
hAZATLAN.
THE MOST PICTURESQUE CITY ON THE
PACIFIC COAST.
Highest Lighthouse on the North
American Standardization
Hospitality.


MAzATLAN, Mexico, 1889.
doubt if anywhere on earth can the
traveller find more beautiful scene than
that unfoIded in the gradual approach to
Mazatlan by sea. First he discerns three
ranges of mountains, rising one behind
another, yelled in misty blue and purple,
their shadowy shapes finally mingling with
the clouds. Scattered about everywherein
the broad bay are small islands, each
mountain of solid rock, rising precipitously
out of the waves, from 800 to 1000 feet in
hight, but green with verdure from base to
summit. On one of them, in which are
two immense wave-washed caves, is the
highest Lighthouse On the North American
continent-so near the clouds that the
winding road leading thereto in zig-zag
fashion looks like tiny thread, and the
man in charge (who seldom comes down
from his aerial abode) appeared like a
pigmy when standing in the doorway. The
deep caverns in the rocky pyramid upon
which this remarkable lighthouse stands
show horizontal stripes of dark red in their
steep sides-owing to the peculiar geolog-
ical formation hereabouts. The native
fishermen row far into these shadowy re-
cesses. and take the finest hauls in dark
and silent places The lighthouse island,
called FL Creston (''the Helmef'), has a
sheer wall on one side straight up from the
blue water Of 400 feet, and the brightly
glowing star in the tower that surmounts
the white mass of solid masonry on top
may be seen by mariners 80 miles away.
Though so picturesque in a scenic point
of view. because of its mountain islands
that dot the sea in every direction, the
harbor of Mazatlan is by no means safe
one, its only available part being the
small space between Ell Creston on the
west and the island of Cieron on the east.
Even these vessels are exposed to the sud-
den and violent storms that come up from
the southwark with hardly a moments
warning, sweeping all before them. Sail
ing vessels are never safe at any season
here, and steamships keep on a full head
of locomotive power, prepared to weigh
anchor at the slightest sign of squall,
yet wrecks are frequent, particularly dur
ing the rainy season.
the colossal "Heimet," we await the ar
rival of the communicate of the port, the
customs and health officers and the Amer
lean Consul, after which we are permitted
to row ashore. Clambering up the steps
of an old wharf, and over the long seawall
that has been built to protect the streets
that reach to the water, we accompanied
the gentlemanly Consul, Mr.. Kelton,
through narrow, winding, sandy streets in
a perfect ecstasy of delight at the quaint
figures around us, the somber exterior of
the solid, square-fronted casas through
whose open portals we catch
GLIMPsEs OF FAIRY LAND,
And the warm, sweet air after the oceans
chilling breezes. Beauty-beauty every
where Beautiful women and beautiful
children; handsome men and picturesque
peasants. Nowhere may We see more ar
tistic groupings, more graceful poses, more
perfect blendings of color. The very buck
sters in the streets would serve well the
palette of an artist, while the cry of their
wares is long-drawn note of music. And
in that word music lies one of the most
potent charms of this lovely country. Ex-
cellent music everywhere-as common as
the balmy air we breathe, and quite as
much expected, as a matter Of course
Military bands seem to be playing eter-
nally in the public plazas, and every after
noon and evening the people promenade to
sweetest strains of the worlds most famous
masters, admirably rendered with the best
of instruments.
And then the interiors of those forbid
ding-looking easas' No people under the
warm, broad rays of the Southern sun,
which VIGOROUSLY tends to hospitality, are
more thoroughly and whole-souledly gem
erous in that respect than the Mexican
lady and gentleman. You appear at the
door of house, aud the g dSSi e. senOr"
or the more profound rs casa dc el, sonora
(This is your house, Madame), is equally
cordial whether you are friend or stranger,
and the low obeisance and the graceful
wave of the well nodded hand that accom-
panies the words make you feel that the
welcome is sincere The extreme heat of
the climate demands high ceilings and ex-
pansive rooms. As everywhere in Mexico,
every house forms hollow square, and in
each central court are palms, and flowers
and birds Of brilliant plumage. In one Of
these, the dark-eyed hostess, whom | had
seen for the first time hardly half an hour
before, plucked me bunch of wax-tinted
roses and pale pink azalias, growing beside
the inner fountain, under the shade of
giant cocoanut palm. The lofty and spa
cious apartments, with their tiled floors
and barred windows without glass, are
strewn with straw mats woven by native
Indians, with straw shades at the case
ments to keep out the glare of the sun;
sofas and chairs of cool, clean wicker-work,
instead of hot. vermin-infested upholstery;
and everywhere are strong hammocks of
sweet-scented grass, in which are taken
the long siestas that here seem to consti-
tute
THE CHIEF BUSINESS OF LIFE
For the upper classes Mazatlan has
present population of about 10000. Its
official title is "La Villa de los Castillas"
the city of castles-but whenceit derived
the name no man can tell. The castles OF
to-day are mostly of one-story adobe,
painted outside in tints of pale blue, pink,
gray and yellow. The city occupies pen
insula about 1900 feet above sea level,
and is extremely well garrisoned, well reg
ulated and protected by a strong fort. 1t
has two big hospitals, one civil, the other
military; Board of Health, several pub
lie schools and reading-room expressly
for foreigners.
Mazatlan is said to have larger per-
centage of foreigners than any other town
on the coast of Mexico, the German pre-
dominating. There are a number of
Englishmen here also mostly engaged in
trade, and large quantities of goods are
yearly imported to this place direct from
England. The leading commercial house,
that of Bartling & Brothers, "Britishers"
of the first water, has big warehouse of
brick and iron just off the long pier, for
the building of which, by the way, they
were compelled TO obtain a special conces-
sion from the Government, and will be
permitted to retain it only a certain num-
I'LL. IL D.-t L. P.-.a h