Evening journal., 1889-08-01
QUEER OLD ANTWERP.
A Graphic Description Of the city and
Its Sights, by Young Traveller.


disembarSed Wednesday, July 10, about
o'clock Ia the afternoon, and had time
to get back from the hotel to see the
Rhynland set sail for New York The
Rhynland is of the Red Star Line, but a
good deal smaller vessel than the Yves
ternland. She seemed TO have on board
full load of passengers, and should
arrive safely in New York in ten days.
In steaming up the Scheldt on Satur-
day afternoon we enjoyed the most beau
tiful scenery imaginable. The country
on both sides of the river is perfectly
fiat, protected by high dykes, and we
could look over the whole country to the
very edge Of the horizon, except where
the view was intercepted by high-tower
ing trees. The country extending from
the mouth Of the Scheldt to Antwerp all
gives evidence of great fertility
The dikes which some had imagined
to be vast ridges of dirt grown up with
weeds and brambes, have all the appear
ance Of well kept terraces and add
greatly to the beauty Of the scenery. All
along The dikes large herds Of cattle were
grazing and they seemed like mere
specks IN the distance. On approaching
them they all seemed to be Of one stock
dark and white spotted with short horns
/ ana All great mix pfOlucefS.
We could see the steeples OF Antwerp
long before we reached the landing, and,
as we wound around the bending course
Of the Seheldt from distance we could
trace the same tile-covered roofs as we
had previously seen all along the Seheldt.
After seeing the Rhynland of for New
York several of our party started out to
take ia" the city The FIRST thing we
noticed was the size of the draft horses
They are all very much larger than are
usually seen in America and are well pro
porUoned They move with a slow step,
drawing very heavy wagons with low
wheels. No shafts are used to the heavy
carts but the single horses are placed at
the side Of heavy tongue, which is so
arranged as to allow the horse to walk in
the middle of the street
The city is crossed In all directions by
small tram-ways. The fare is Is cen
times; equal to cents in United States
money. We have been making full use
of the tram-ways and have been over
nearly all the city. Last evening, after
supper, we went up TO the nearest public
square place Verte) TO hear the free mill
tary concert, and there we saw large
crowds of people out for their evening
| stroll. A striking characteristic of the
women and young girls is, that when out
for promenade they are always busy with
their knitting. They have a small bag
fastened to their waists for their knit
ting materials, and keep their fingers
going constantly. Numerous fruit stalls
and stands were attended by young girls,
and while they were waiting for custom
ers they kept up their knitting; on the
arrival Of any one they dropped every
thing, and it seemed no difficulty for
them TO renew their work Immediately
after dealing out the fruit.
In the busy thoroughfares the saloon
keepers occupy the whole of the sidewalk
and even extend their movable bars 10
the centre Of the street, so that pedes
trians think it no hardship to walk
around. In fact, the people usually walk
in the middle Of the streets. The side
walks are usually about three feet wide
and are very often crowded. with shoE
wares. On the other hand the streets
are paved with square blocks Of stone
and are at present very clean. They are
much smoother to walk on than the pave
ments. We at first were inclined tc
cling to the sidewalks from mere force
of habit, but now we invariably keep Ia
the middle Of the street. When one OF
the party gets dangerously near the side
walk he is quickly reminded that he is
approaching forbidden ground.
In all our travels through the city We
have found but four streets that werS
| straight enough to permit one to SEE
more than 200 yards ahead. But tn,
houses are all Of very neat appearance
J They are either marble, white stones Of
some bright material to represent mar
BILE. All stores, Offices and warehouses
are on the first floor, aud the uppei
stories are occupied by the families AZ
dwellings. 1t is very seldom that yoU
dnd a street devoted entirely to dwelling
houses. The people seem to have mor'
genteel appearance on the streets o.
Sunday than they do in the averag
American city. There were very few
. baggars to be seen, and we have no
e noticed "a poorly y-clad person during
the whole day. The stores and saloon
are all open on Sunday, just as they ar
on week days. and in spite Of this, w
have seen but two persons who were a
all under the influence of liquor
r We feel. after two days here, that w
. are as well acquainted with Antwerp a
Y we are with Philadelphia, in spite of it
crooked streets. Our party arose brigh
aud early this morning, and after
|
. cathedral, the largest Catholic Church Il
y the Netherlands. We first entered tn
\ main part Of the cathedral, and after lis
tening to one Of the best choirs on tn
i continent, we set about examining tn
4 famous paintings that are TO be founi
II there. Two very celebrated paintings o
a Reubens are to be seen there: "Th
Elevation Of the Cross" and The D'
scent From the Cross. 1t is well wort
} a visit to Antwerp just to see these tw
pictures. There are also many othe
y very fine paintings here as well as thos'
e They are from the brush Of the gres
d Flemish masters. The interior of th
y church is very beautiful. 1t is built er
! tirely Of stone and marble, and in th
Is shape of a cross. The stained glas
windows are some Of the most celebrate
lie in the world The church was begun
/. 1852, and was finally finished in 1911
Is No fires are ever allowed to be built
N the cathedral During the time we wei
sr IN the church there were no less than 81
r, congregations worshipping at once. I'll
It only common part Of their worshi
n seemed to be to listen to the great orgal
and during the whole time Of the servic'
people were wandering around looking
!, the paintings. The only rules that mu
be obeyed are that no one shall tall
y After visiting the interior we went up
: : the tower, which is 402 feet high. Fro
= there we conld trace the course Of Il
q a Scheldt for miles, winding like threl
- in the distance. About half way mp Il
- tower are the chimes, consisting