The morning news., 1889-04-27

an hlack dress is of India silk, with black
figures and black dotted net mounting,
ora vn in with old rose ribbons.
The touch of black introiuc by Worth
3 few years ago has now bee me a leading
idea in fashions. A PERSIAN batiSte" made
over silk, is trimmed with black chantilly
lace leaves, apphqued on. This cotton It's
sue is as fine as silk, ard the dress costs as
much or more than single silk dress with
out overlaying. 1t is in reality not batiste,
but satlne In Persian patterns, only the
word Sotine-often vulgarized satteen--
has now become common; aud bGt|Ste,
which has maintained certain enthusi-
asm, is therefore substituted.
THE GREAT MASTER OF STYLE.
Mr. Worth is always wise in going coun-
ter TO the rush of the majority Tnis is the
way he maintained his leadership The
ordinary person wants a thing because
Others have it; the natural leader in fash
| ions avoids it for that reason and strikes
Into directly opposite course. This sea-
son. which is notable for designs of pecu-
liar and striking character, particularly
here where the market has heen hOode /
with huge patrons and noisy contrasts,
Worth las issued designs in lace, fabrics
and costumes of the most subdued charac-
ter ami quaker-ike prlmness.
One of his gowns is the Priscilla. 1t is
of wood brown watered silk. the straighc
skirt is trimmed VITA two straight lnser-
tions Of chantilly lace in pretty, quaint,
set" pattern, separated and outlined by
rows OF a narrow black silk and velvet trim
ming laid close together and forming a
horder as wide as the lace insertion. which
Is not insei ted, but laid fiat on the silk
This trimming is repeated upon the sleev yes,
and also in narrow widths upon the bodice
whore it forms pelerine, high upon the
shoulder, and narrowing as it nears the
waist. Toe touches, and little bows aud
arts which have no appearance of art by
which the apparent simplicity becomes so
fascinating, are indesc 'ibable, as indeed are
all the subtler elements which mark those
moments Of inspiration in which art finds
expression
Quite apart from the show and glitter of
the commonplace, there is curious oppo-
siteness in the prevailing fashions, exam
Piles of which are often found in the choice
made by the same person. In the summer
ou fit now preparing for wealthy lady is
lowered mousSiin de sole, made up with
lOveliest lace in pattern of maiden hair
ferns over white corah silk. The delicacy
and daintinass of the creation is unspeak
able IL does not seem that machinery
could have woven or hands put together
this mass of tender color and silken nothing
ness. Yet beside 1T lay another costume for
the same person, in red and blue cotton,
with a white and black coin pattern dis
tribute1 over tkat might have been made
fer South Sea islander II was composed
of handkercliefs WITH red border aud wa
made with a blouse waist and Brittany
skirt, "tucked" up at the sides.
The same lady has just had a cloak made
of black chantilly lace, with plated TOP
and straight killed sleeves reaching nearly
to the ground. The shoulders are outlined
by wide bands of passe enenterie, to which 9
g., ~ Z.
jet, which falls upon the top of the sleeves
The Jet bands a rive nearly at a point as
they approach the waist line, front and
back, and give the pelerine shape to the
part that covers the bodice.
But the transparent lace cloak is the
p-ettiest, most graceful and refined. 1t re-
quires, however, a rich black or very doll
cate colored toilet beneath. 1t is very 81
pensive, for it is made of chantilly lace,
woven of an unusual width for the pur
pose. 1t is almost straight, like a Come
mara" and gathered into a ruche at the
throat. 1t is sairred in at the waist at the
back very slightly, with two ribbo IS W lich
draw both ways and only contine the lace
at the back, not at the sides. The bonnet
should be transparent to accompany such a
costume, which is only fit for summer
garden fete.
CapeS. pelerines, jackets, food the mar
ket, made of lace, lace and jet, jet or
materials trimmed with Jet The sleeveless
jackets of transparent jet and crochet, AID
the pelerines Of the same description, which
were feature of the London and Paris
shops last year, have appeared here; and
also the wide, Spanish lace scarfs, arranged
with ribbons, as mantalets and ficlus
gathered at the center upon the shoulders
and at the waist line in front. and Crna-
mented with handsome black ribbons
These scarfs make elegant mantelets, but
they are not at all cheap, though lou er in
price than they would be if Spanish lace
were not under little cloud at present
and they po sess one advantage, they cal
be utilized for ficau drapery for indoor
wear.