The Dickinson press., 1889-02-09
A RIDE IN GUATEMALA.
A ROUGH TRIP THROUGH THE COR
DlLLERAS' SIDE SPURS.

Stage Travel i'll Central .tmcrica-Indiln
a Town at Full Gallap-.A Tircsomc
.tsccnt-Down Grade.
/ left Quezaltenango by stage for San Mar
cos recently. The road runs through the
side spurs of the Cordilleras for tl,irty-siS
miles, and the up grades are so heavy that TO
make any time the animals are whipped
along on every level stretch and sent faster
down hill, the brake being applied only
when the wagon gains too much on the
horses. The team we had was made up of
three miserable horses, not more than four.
teen hands high, and one lazy mule OF about
the same size. The stages are canvas GOV
cred spring wagons, seating -four people in
side and one with tho driver, all seats on the
same level and cushioned with leather stuffed
with straw, and as hard as the boards under
meath. Most Of tho drivers are Me%icans,
wearing sandals and such clothes ~aStilc. may
beg. borrow, OF steal. The dill gence COM
pany supplies q few extra pieces of chain,
leather. an immense lash whip, and n large
knife. with which the driver fashions the
leather to repair the dozen OF SO breaks of
the harness i'll the course OF the day.
The first town reached Vas san Matco,
about two leagues from ouezaltenango, and
Ole league further On, as We tlealei tho loot
of the mountains, we passed through San
Juan Ostmacalco. II pueblo Of 600 on 100
souls. 1t WAS about S O'Clock in the morning
and the streets were filled with Indians
bringing III market prot.ucc. some carrying
the loads in baskets on their heads, hut the
majority had their cargt.s on their backs i'll
what is called Il "ramasta.H This is 4 wooden
r,,,,o,.,.l. = .l,.l,.,. fu.t.,,.,l itttn f,ui. ,,,.
ri.nt pieces of wood aud stitirneA with raw
hi,c thongs, those of ordinary size being
a laut four feet high. thirty inches wide and
twenty inches deep. Cords around the bot
tGn all middle arc joined 10 tho leather
l!ea,lp:ece, OF broad strap, which passes
across the mans forchcad and serves to hold
the CONTINUANCE in place. The Indian, i'll
cliu!ng his body slightly forward, travels for
days thus laden With his pack of 100 pounds
SO lcl!catclv balanced and adjusted that lie
feels no excess of strain IN any particular
point. Many were driving goats and sheep
in front of them, and others dragging them
with ropes tied around their necks.
The pretty, bright colored dresses of the
Indians added much lothish vcly scene. Nov
and then you could sce the entire family
bringing IA the produce of their farm, tho
father himself carrying his lold and driving
tie ''b"rro," so heavily packet that nothing
bu! The tips of his ears and his feet could he
seen, followed by the mother with Il basket
ca lIor lead and the youngest strapped ~ her
back, with his lees dangling ont OF the folds
OF lie shawl ard his little blacl; head peep
il@ out OF Tho Top. Then come the two boys,
both carrying loads; the older one Juggling at
II rope lied To the neck Of an obstinate,
sluca!in3 pr, who wishes TO go in any digcc-
ton but the proper one, and who is being
urged forward by the younger boy, Who is
laying his whip across lis iiil!d quarters ut
every step, Ihcy sem To MAKE lat SLOW
progress. but they will reach the plaza and in
time for market louIs.
Through the main street of san Juan,
paved wsh cobblc stones and filed with such
a crowd, our diver forced his animals ut Il
gallop, ni.5ins them Oh with his whip and n
sl4rill whistle, and bcin; comparatively fresh
they responded quite willingly. The leaders,
with sleigh! bells ted to their necI;s, warned
all in advance to &c. out OF the way. Away
We went, bounding over the uneven pave
mcnt with a great racket, and in ways SO
narrow that the crowd had to hug the sides
OF The houses 10 escape our wheels. For blocks
in front you could see the Indians escaping
into The side streets when possible, and
h.'A-i tiiNoc lNpl.S az 2istI'AtN'i I w
gsi of being run over every time Il diligence
passes, they seem to bear no i'll will to tho
careless drivers. They have never seen any
other management OF horses, and | presume
they tliin!: that this is the proper way 10
drive. And besides, the. depend on the.tage
line for the eSeration of any commissions
they may have in the nciShboriu% TOXINS.
Many times our driver stopped in the long
streets OF San Juan, always IL welcome guest,
dropping packages here, picking them up
there, and at every stop receiving his small
piece of silver and Il drink in payment. He
took So many drinks before coming To the
hills that | began to have ONE fears for our
safety Oh the steep and dangerous roads to
come.
Three miles to the north of San Juan the
long and t~llesolae ascent begins. and so nur.
row that horsemcl only can pass the stage.
The road Is cut into the mountain side,
many places in solid rock, i'll which, as you
go slowly ahead, can be seen many names
and prettily carved crosses; and on nearing
the summit You see many wooden crosses
planted Oh the roadside, inscribed with the
names of the saints in whose honor they
We're erected. Looking back. the entire val
ley of Quczaltenaugo is spread out before
and about 1000 feet below You, and often
obscured by the clouds, for you are above
them and i'll them, and the blankets over
your knees and your heavy wraps do not
make You feel over warm. We were nearly
five hours making the ridge, Il distance of
about seven miles. The mountain scenery
in this region is grand, but any views, no
matter how beautiful, would become nnonot-
onous when seen from an almost springloss
vehicle, dragged over a rain washed, rocky
road at u ga!lop, accompanied by n Mexican
drivers yells and whistles, and the i.lcessaut
swapping OF bis whip, SO, at about o'clock
when we pulled up at the breakfast station
iii q lovely green mountain valley, it was not
the meal that pleased Us, but the relief felt
in getting out OF that hard cushioned, wo.oH
and away from the drivers noise.
The stages meet at THIS stopping place, and
when tic drivers had finished their converse.
ton without any consideration fur The ll;.
ings OF the impatient passengers We w,go
again off, and soon on the down grade. l..
was SO rocky that with my feet nrargi H.
front and holding on To the sides, | very o.. a.i
came down OH the seat with 50 violti.: *.
bump that ! felt rs if my spinal column la,.
gone up through my brain. Nov ard tacn
the stage would give a side lurch and sllasr
the briin of my hat against the si,,c s.ic.s
This down hill ride continued for two hour
until, thoroughly exhausted, w arrived T.,
The town Of San Pedro. where wc rlu.t4t ;
glimpse of q rather level country iii advance
-Guatemala Cor. New York Times.