New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-11-24
UNIOUE PARISIAN RESTA URANTS.
NOT THE COUNTERFEIT ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ION FOR SPORTING MEN AND ABSENT
MINDED GUESTS


"Talk about cheap restaurants" said New-Yorker
who had Just returned from the French Exposition last
month. We don't seem TO have anything here to
touch one or two saw in Paris when was thera.
know we can do pretty well in that line down in Mott
ST. perhaps but am sure that these speak OF take
the cake They in the poorest part of the city, OF
course, and their customers are of the doubtful
we'll no. not doubtful at all, but rather decidedly
shady-class Of the population who gather In there amer
the theatres Close night and everybody from whom
they can beg with any chance of profit has gone
home
"The ARRANGEMENTS and the service are quite simple
They consist of one immense iron pot filled with
conglomerate stew of all sorts of odds and ends Oh
food picked up at the refuse-bashets of the
big hotels ard restaurants, and long hahdleu
iron fork. The hungry customer advances
10 the pot and pays one sou 10 the landlord WIN
hands him the fork Taking a long sniff of the ap
petizing % steam which rises from the canldron he
plunges the fork into the mass and withdraWs IL
once-no more II he stabs anything with the 1oilN
and brings it to the surface the morsel Is MS Il IT.
gets nothing-whch sometimes happens-he has "o
redress but must pay another sou for announcer p'I7
or co hungry. The experiment is always "a.'h''
breahlessy by the other customers ana II the iu'S
fisherman brings up a substantial piece OF me@ NJ
is congratulated If he brings up only potato or a
bit of carrot, which frequently happens, uc
stinginess of the master Of the cuisine Is lrceS
commented on and doubts are even eA'
pressed of the existence OF any more
tneat at all in the stew, pnt
If a luckless wight brings UP nothing at ALL ne Is
greeted With chorus of laughter and derlSVe re-
marks and is advised to fill himself up with a smell
of the vapor.
Another restaurant which l visited there con-
tnucd the narrator, was established by chan'aDie
neope for the express use of the of society," and
much more subs antlal meal is given there for sou
than at the place have Just described Therefore 1t
is mora POPULAR with those of the criminal classes who
are not in danger of immediate arrest by the police
and can afford to come out of their hiding
places long enough to eat If you dia
not know the place TO be the resort
of thieves, you would soon Deglh 10! 20 SusRot ~,
benches are screwed 10 the floor the IRON basins iO
which the food is eaten are sunen mo me tables
and folks are also secured by short chains 10 the
tables and a. the food IS already seasoned, no pepper
OF Ts oSiv onesou dish however thick broth
or soup strapping big woman carries 1t about me
room 10 the customers In sort of rubber bag when
sbo holds nnder her arm and for all the world
like a scotchmans bag-ppes. The bag is provided
with long neck which ehaS bas beo the
and when she gives the bag under her arm squeeze
with her elbow out sQur,s the broth and she controls
~ o,on,ity hv rrinninr the long neck giving one
son dish or a two sou dish at will.
While we were looking on. the attendant got mo
dispute with one OF her custOh cict ahm no
quantity Of broth she had placed before MN Ior tNo
sous lie asserted that it was not worth more man
one SON and nobody should make him pay more lpi
r. He threw down his with an oath. ana
took up his spoon TO eat OMcM! ana qmc,tii uro
attendant lowered the long neck INTO ms
under her arm and with audible SUCK hall te TOth
was siphoned back into the be- In Jihy from uhdcf
The GROWERS very nose. . IL, .oo,,od
",rhe surprise of that eXconvict was only equa"e"
" own