Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-09-05


| dark gray are used in the same way as
black and white in combination with light
colOrs, as well as such dark ones as navy
blue, plum color, maroon, tan and terra
Gotta.
Although the fashioning of the fall
gown may not be definitely announced !,
the readers of the Ladies Column would
be somewhat disappointed if some hint
was not given as to its makeup 1t is
| announced with some show of authority
that the GTecian, Empire, Russian and
/ Directoire models are four distinct types
in fashionable gowns for next season,
/ but the variations are bewildering, ex-
! tending from the regal MedicI gown to
! the straight, full-skirted dress of a
''housemaid on duty . Although GER
! tain rules are complied with, there is
! practically no limit to the creation of
J luxurious gowns.
! For comfort the double breasted
Dasques and Norfolk jackets will be re-
vived, and some dresses VIII have shirt
waists of plaid wool under jackets of plaid
fitted in the back, but straight and loose
II front. Stitched edges and metal but
tons will give them a neat finish For
very slight figures the long, well draped
overskirt viii be used for plaid gowns,
| falling straight in plaits behind and in
! front, but taken up slightly on each side
to give glimpSes of q skirt beneath, which
is only band or plating of the plaid set
on foundation skirt.
In autumn dresses, the journals assert,
there will be little use made Of cOmbma-
tions, handsome bordered materials TAX
| ing the place, but there has been ism
ported some Paris made dresses for
youthful wearers that show cream white
woods in combination with the new
pIaided and striped surahs that have but
two cOlors in their patterns. Orange
and olive plaids are novel, also a new
shrimp pink, with linden green. Brown
and Roman red are combined, the brown
a rich golden tint. A firmly woven
cream-white Ursuline cloth forms a
bodice, and long graceful draperies over
a skirt of eCru and cafe-au-lait plaid.
The blouse vest is of the plaid, with
brown velvet revers on the wool bodice.
Another one of the prettiest models
from this great emporium OF fashion is
walking suit of ladies cloth in very dark
green. 1t is made with a short skirt and
long pOlOnaise, the former plated in
front under the parting of the polOnaise,
which is made with a panel at either side
in fine hand embroidery in black and
shaded green silks. The corsage portion
of this pOlonaise opens from waist TO
throat with embroidered revers over a
vest in plated surah silk. Embroidered
cuffs and collars complete this very styl-
ish costume.
IT is hard to realize that ladies viii
travel in red cloaks, and yet travelling
cloaks are said to be made of Eiffel red.
Still it seems as if true refinement VIII
dictate the selection of the delicate silver
gray and brown caTmeIIite that is made
mp with monk s hood at the back. The
wrap is confined at the waist by a
kuotted rope of braided silk gimp. Other
long wraps for the autumn are formed of
soft tweeds i'll stripes and checks, or
plain English cloth, which are made to
represent a costume in themselves.
Some are in directoire style, with
fichu-Iike shoulder capes; others
have stylish yoke pieces and
turn-back cuffs Of rich black silk
galoon, and others again have friars
hoods, with Odd-pOinted keTchief fronts.
Black fallle is much used for handsome
visiting wraps for matrons. These are
IN close redingOte shape. The front of
the waist portion often laps to the left
side, and has an effective tichu of jet and
fine Chantilly lace. Other elegant cos
tunes are of Tepped silk, with fronts Of
Chautilly or marquise net, plated at the
throat, again at the waist, with loose
skirt front below. The sleeves to these
garments are very elaborate, showing an
artistic arrangement of lace, silk and Jet
ornaments
Finishes for the neck vary with the
taste of the wearer. There are Stuart
friIIs for dresses made a little low in the
neck, there are Corday and Marie An
R.l, l,11
ursuline capes of lisse or silk mus
the chest, but more quaint than
any of these are the Swiss shawl capes
with ends crossed at the belt in front and
carried to the back and tied. COquett-
ish? OF course, or why should the girls
wear them? Then they can resort for
change to the French scarf, falling
straight to the skirt hem, and other
charming accessories.
Don't close. says p bright-faced girl,
until you tell us about sleeves. All! my
dear, there you touch the odd If not the
grotesque. Many Of the shapes are be-
coming only to women of medium build.
Shirred, puffed, shocked and plated
sleeves are seen everywhere, and these
are shaped in endless ways, some being
pulled from the shoulder 10 the elbow,
while others are closely gathered into a
tight cuff. There are huge, Balloon
like puffs strapped or banded at
intervals with wide ribbon. These !
are not pretty, but they are fashion
able. Others again have q puff on the |
shoulders, with a plain close sleeve be- |
low, finished with deep CrOmwellian cuffs |
at the wrist. NumbeTless combinations |
are made with these various elements. !
Bands of white and gold galloon are |
passed down the outside of the arm, |
through full perpendicular pufs that |
spread out at each side. Close coat !
sleeves are very much trimmed at the |
upper arm, near the shoulder, either |
with caps, braids or chevrons, or gimp |
edged points and silk-cord arabesques in |
fanclfuI devices; while on some of the !
new "art'' toilets the open flowing |
sleeve of our grandmother s time again |
appears, worn with an embroidered !
undersleeve as of Old. And this is |
surely enough about sleeves that now |
play so important a part in costuming |
and are the vexatiou of modistes aud |
the trial of weaTeTs.
NOTES.
All Tho nav brOVns have mora o0I1 :