The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1889-06-13
PAST THE CHINESE PORTS.
Scenes In Annoy and SwRtOw-CIty of
ShanghaI-Its Bund aud Its opium
Dens-OrientaI Play Houses and Tea
saloons.


SHANGHAI, China.-After our ship haC
been relieved at Canton by the Essex
and on the arrival of number of for
eign war vessels in port, where the un
settled state of affairs had kept us oil
duty several weeks, we raised anchor
and steamed down the river to the sea
Having stopped at Hong Kong for a few
days, we proceeded up the coast o
China. on our way to Shanghai, the grea
Chinese port that lies thousand mileI
above Canton. 1t is a charming anC
picturesque sail through the Celestia
waters. which are fairly covered with
small fishing boats and other native
crafts, and past the numerous fort:
which are garrisoDed with almond-eyeC
soldiery in quaint uniforms, al hough il
danger at night time of running dowI
the smaller vessels which display no sig
nal lights, but whose occupants announce
their proximity by raising a great cry Of
alarm.
The low and level shores are lined with
towns and cities, many of them walled
and protected, whose defenders beal
great gongs 10 frighten away their foes
The scenes in their quaintness are some
times quite pretty, but there is much
that is unsightly and offensive. Al
Swatow we found dirty and filthy city
of considerable commercial importance
pleasantly si'uated on sheltered bay,
swarmlng with beggars and small ped
dlers who make wretched the liyes o.
visitors. The celebrated tTading-towu
Of Annoy, farther up the sea, one of the
earliest seats of European commerce, il
charmingly located with an inner and
outer harbor. Although open to the
people of the whole world, it is a typical
Chinese city, crowded with poverty.
stricken humanity. A considerable for.
eign settlement occupies pretty little
island opposite the city, that is some
thing of social oasis in this human
desert,
The city of Shanghai, on its approach,
has the appearance of modern Euro.
pean town, with large buildings and
broad streets lined with trees, with nu-
merous grass plots and beautiful park,
with electric lights Illuminating It's
thoroughfares by night, and with its
waterfront bordeTed with the shipping
of all nations. 1t is situated on river
several miles from its mouth, and ex-
tends great distance along the bank.
The foreign settlements make up the
lower part Of the city, near our place of
anchorage, where most of the trade is
transacted, The great roadway along
the river, known as the Bund lined with
stately structures and residences, and
traversed by throngs of people, presents
the city in very favorable light. The
ship-yards dry docks, and government
buildings, near at hand, give to it an air
of enterprise and make it the most i'm
portant trade center and emporium in
China. There is nothing Oriental about
it except the presence of the Chinese in
their native costumes.
A short distance above this is the old
city, which has undergone but few
changes all through the ages 1t is en-
compassed with wall TWENTY-FIVE feet
high, which was built in the 10Th centu-
ry, and scarcely any of the buildings
rise above its battlement Seven gates
open into its enclosure, which lead into
narI ow, dark and filthy streets, crowded
with Chinese, who stop and stare Curl
ously at all foreigners whom they regard
as intrudt re-. Here thousands of natives
breathe the air, grope in the darkness,
and grovel in the dirt of the most pent
up and dingiest town that it. has ever
been my privilege to enter. The houses
are principally of brick, low and small,
and fairly swarm with occupants. The
shops are miniature affairs, with meager
displays OF goods. Human beings, vile
smiles and grimmy walls and walks are
all that visitor is likely to encounter in
the place.
Extending back of the European por-
ton Of Shanghai is an extensive town, a
place of some pretensiOn az well as of
interest. 1t is here that one find thea
tres, concert halls, Tea gardens and
opium joints. Chairs and palsquins are
the common conveyances on the streets.
The costumes of the people are simple
and picture, que, blue being the prevail.
ing color worn by the working classes,
and white that by the servants. The
people of rank are dressed more elabor-
ately, and wear various colors. The
principal articles of food are fish, which
is eaten with chop sticks, and rice, which
is served in bowl and poked into the
mouth with sticks. In some parts of the
city and in the country are seen many
odd-looking vehicles, that are used for
carrying freight and passengers, and in
appearance resemble wheelbarrow
with single wheel yard in diameter
covered with box-like frame, along the
sides of which a narrow seat Is extend
ed, forming an uncomfortable place for
the occupant who supports bis feet in
the loop OF rope that bangles over the
side. The parcels of freight are tied on
with stout thongs. Frequently person
rides on one side and merchandise is
carried on the other. The fare is small.
and the progress is slow, not exceeding
brisk walk. In the country, when a
fair wind prevails, John Chinaman sets
sail on his wheelbarrow and goes bowl
ing along over the smooth roads.
Among the people the habit of opium
smoking exists very largely. Shanghai
abounds with opium dens of every de-
scription, and offers the most tempting
facilities. There are many large joints
in which hundreds of patrons are ac-
comodated at once. The large rooms are
divided by partitions into small alcoves,
each OF which contains a couch for the
use of two persons, who lie on their sides
facing each other. Between them is
placed small lamp, together with one
pipe and dish of opium, that may be
bought at the office at any price from
size and quality. The one who is not
the pipe to the light, while the other in
hales its dreamful and soul-forgetting
nephenthe. In its PREPARATION a wire is
dipped into jar that gathers up little
of the opium, then placed in the flame
for second and worked into a globule,
with repeated dipping into the jar, until
the substance becomes the size of a
small pea. II is then held in the pipe
and lighted, and the smoker is supposed
to iEhale it's virtues. On the evening of
our visit to the joint every couch was
occupied, and it was a novel sight, un-
canny, sh dowy and mysterious.
In large room above the opium lint.
already referred to, were were ushered
into concert hall on the payment of
forty cents, as the price of admission.
The room was filed with tables, around
which were seated the audience, COM
posed entirely of Cinnamon. On the
stage at a small table four men sat, play
ing some monOtOnous tune on squeaking
fiddles, accompanied by two women who
sang, in a drawling, singson manner, "A
Celestial strain. doubtlessly charming to
native ears. They were followed by two
other singers, so alternating without in
termission. As soon as we were seated
at a table, two cups were placed before
ug, one TO drink from and the other,
which was covered, containing tea.
leaves. The covered cup was kept filled
by a servant, who went about with a
kettle OF hot water. Another attendant
passed about with pipe Of smoking to-
bacco, and allowed anyone to take few
puffs. In preparing the pipe, very