The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-04-10
MANY CHANGES DEMANDED.
FASHION RETURNS TO OLD STYLES
Bustles and High Hats Going Into Exile
Waist Places VIII Be Made Glad
By Easing Up the Corset
Strings-Latest Points.

One of the dress reiormers in lecture
the other day called attention to the fact
that there are certain correspondence in
fashions. There are periods of toilet in
fiation, which are always followed by
styles that run to opposite extremes. The
inflated periods generally last about seven
years, and they are followed by seven
years OF gauntness and simplicity. This
spring witnesses the decline of the inflated
fashions and the beginning of strict adj
berence TO natural outlines.
Inasmuch as one exaggeration in dress
is always accompanied by another, the
large hustle had its attendant high hat,
and the pinched-in waist was associated
with the tight sleeve. Now all is changed.
Waists are 10 be large and sleeves must
be loose The hustle and the high hat
have simultaneously collapsed.
1t is really quite hard for women to be-
come reconciled to undistended back
draperies but the dear creatures Will obey
any dictate of fashion with amazing SELF
denial 1t will, however, requiresOme time
TO pet out of the habit OF executing the
peculiar backward movement OF the hands
that was necessary in order to adjust the
hustle every now and then when reassur-
ance regarding its right position was
deemed necessary. The side kick that ac-
companied the wearing OF the trains was
slow in disappearing so the back drapery
hitch will probably not be forgotten
until some new and equally reprehensible
habit is acquired.
But the most trying innovation OF fash
ion this spring is the enlarged waist: The
wasp-like form occupies a cherished spot
in every woman's vanity. No matter how
heavy or altogether out of proportion a
woman NAV become she will lace in her
waist and imagine that by so doing she
retains some of her girlish slenderness.
All the newest gowns from Paris are I'm
ished with belts or girdles that impart an
increased size to the waist. OF course the
Paris gowns are made to fit without a
wrinkle-no French modiste would coun-
tenunce a loose bodice. The corset is the
very foundation OF a French wOman's
stvle, and the French corset is made so
that it can be laced tighter than any other
continuance OF the kind that has ever been
invented. The empire gowns, however,
demand short-waisted effects, and 1t is i'm
possible to make an empire gown conform
TO modern ideas of slenderness.
Sashes will be in favor all summer.
They Will become a prominent feature In
all wash dresses. The soft India silks are
much used for sashes and they produce
very satisfactory effects. Belts are again
being introduced. With belts handsome
buckles will be used and the jewellers
show some elaborate designs. \ belt
buckle costs from > to SO and every
stylish girl is anxious TO trade her last
years bOn-bOn box for an OXidlzed silver
or chased gold buckle. Buckles, by the
way, are the latest fad in jewelry, and they
81
will be used upon shoes, and they must
be large and conspicuous if they are gen
uine silver or gold. Rhinestone buckles
will figure in evening toilets, but though
a substitute shines brightly as diamond
rhinestones are in questionable taste.
Dressmakers always take care that
there shall be a certain amount or work
upon gowns. If the skirts are not elab-
crate then the waists engage attention.
This spring there will be much wild sleeve
decoration and many poor woman will
be disfigured because she desires the latest
touches Of fashion upon the Easter gown.
Bishop sleeves and those known as leg of
mutton are happily reserved for thin ma
terials and for thin women. Putfs In
great variety will appear upon the spring
sleeves. They will be placed at the
shoulder, elbow or cuff or at all three
places, lust as the fancy of the owner die
tates Under-sleeves of lace, null or silk
are a dainty innovation. They have long
been used upon tea gowns and they are
now an important addition to all dressy
costumes. The plain linen cuffs and fiat
ruches have long been very trying to the
hands and now that there is an oppOrtu-
n1ty to hide bony wrists beneath fall of
lace women rejoice.
There are many pretty conceits In neck
wear Fichus OF lace and null are re-
vived, and rundown, plated collars and
cuffs of lace will be worn. Real lace will
henceforth be much used, and women
who have collars of pointe duchesse or
thread lace can now adapt them to their
new gowns. The high collars have been
abandoned except for street suits. Women
Will once more show their Threats and
necks whenever they appear Sin silk at
tire" With the laces and fichus old
fashioned brooches are brought out from
their long retirement.
But every gown, whether for street or
home, lacks one thing that to the least
observant seems very needtuL Will no
dress maker or modiste or ladies' tailor
invent watch pocket? OF course watches
are not stylish for women, because they
imply that the wearer find it necessary to
keep track OF the time. Fashionable
women who toll not are supposed to allow
the hours TO pass UNDECIDED. Yet there
are many women who wear watches, and
the poor things have such hard time be-
cause watch-pockets are not in style. SO
they wear their watches in a most re-
1narkable and inconvenient way, hidden
In their bodices and attached to ball and
chain that gives clew to the concealed
timepiece. How any woman ever learns
the time is a vexed question to inquisitive
men, who generally take it for granted
that women's watches never go. No
fashion would prove greater boon to
women than a really stylish, safe and con-
venient watch-pocket.
Late Fashion Pointers.
The horseshoe remains favorite form for