The national leader., 1889-02-09
FAs. NOTES.

Heavy ribbed blac. lis strik-
ingly effective when mac, n long
cloakS.
Orange lace, satin, brocaA Nr-
ange colored velvet bonnets. opera
cloaks. bonnets. tea gowns and theatre
Jackets made up in conjunction with
bronze or receds velvet shot with gold,
are late French fancy in dress and
garniture.
Trimmings OF fur are worn wher.
ever fur band can be placed. The
manufacturers have been successfully
experimenting in dying furs, conse-
quently number Of new 81 1des have
appeared. Sable taxes the lead in
price and elegance.
The muslin cravat edged with fine
lace, which was also feature of mas
culine dress after the Restoration, is
now worn. The ends are not now
as long as they were at that period,
hardly longer than the bows. Tinted
crepe is used very often instead Of pure
white in the making OF the dressy
cravats which are worn under the
chin in the Dlrectoire style Of dress.
-Fringes which have been neglected
SO long, are again In vogue. The
Marabout feather aud Chenille fringe
for out door garments, and thoss OF
silk or net for dresses.
The slashed fringes for cloth dresses
with an acorn OF the same color OF the
cloth fastened on each individual strip,
IS very unique.
The more like the Russian style an
article approaches, the more fashion
able il is at the present-even the Rus
sian blouse is still great favorite, and
is worn at theatre as well as in the
house and with the dinner toilets. 1t
is worn by young married people as
we'll as girls, but in any case 1t should
not be worn by those who are short
and stout Of stature.
A pretty skating costume for a
young girl is plated skirt and blouse
of red and blue striped cloth, with
apron overskirt and long, full drapery
in the back Of plain red Henrietta
cloth. A short jacket of heavy tan
broad cloth, lined throughout with
satin of the same shade, must be open
showing of the blouse waist. A red
felt hat with loops of blue satin rib
bon, complete this simple and neat
costume.
a FRENCH RIDING HABIT.-Jan-
uary has been 80 pleasant that it has
admitted of much horse back riding
which Is indeed a most exhilarating
exercise. A pretty habit was in navy
blue Melton cloth, bound with braid
on bodice laps and edges. and fastened
with crochet buttons. The bodice
formed a waistcoat and was fastened
slantwise at the top. A high shirt co.,
lar of white linen.
The fneness and elegance OF un-
derclothing is carried to an excess by
Parisian women. Over the chemises of
cambria and Valenclennes laces is
worn corset of satin, black or red for
daytime; white, cream or pale pink for
evening. The underpetticOat is Of
slightly quilted elk. matched to the
corset, and trimmed with black or
white lace. The Overskirt is quite as
elegant if not more so than the dress
itself.
"A walking costume is Of myrtle
green Amazon cloth, trimmed with
moleskin. The skirt Is plain and edged
with the moieskiu. It is covered by a
drapery nearly forming second skirt,
caught up slightly here and there with
box pleat at the back. 1t is also
edged with the moleskin. The bodice,
IN the soldat Frapcais style. is double
breasted, with one row of Norwegian
buttons down the left side; moleskln
collar and cuffs and band Of moleskln
down the centre.
One Of the most convenient and
useful as we'll as ornamental articles is
a bag to be worn on the arm. There
are a number, OF which we have the
'smerveilleux" bag, Of silver bro
caded and the ''incroyable" bag, the
latter-a spacious concern for prayer
books and scent bottles, or tiny
comb and brush, handkerchief, and in
| fact all the paraphernalia. 1t is vel
vet with applique work or painting
| outside and closed with a clasp: the
others are drawn open by strings and
all are lined with satin.
A very handsome costume for a
young debutante. has full but per-
fectiy plain skirt OF blue lace-(cOl-
ored laces with designs of heavy raised
threads in pale pink or some other
color, over an underskirt OF conStrast-
Ing color, Is the latest novelty for
evening dresses for young girlsl over
skirt OF maise colored silk. The waist
is low cut in the neck and has high
puffed sleeves, a y Empire. A wide
sash is tied around the waist, broad
ened IN front; one costume had butter
fly bows on the shoulder which gave it
an airy appearance.
The turban and the toque still
take precedence of all other shapes in
close hats. The new shapes sit grace
fully upon the head, and many of them
are covered with the soft plumage OF
the dove, the gold or silver lophorous,
or the golden brown merle. In spite
of all that has been said against The
destruction Of birds. and notwith.
standing the rigid rules and resolutions
drawn up by humane societies, there Is
but little diminution In the demand
for bird decorations for hats and bon
nets. Empire wells are worn, and the
wearer looks as if she had her head
shirred into lace bag.
Among well dressed women dark
! 90 Iori> hI,1o friy xuith