The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1889-02-23
Precious Perfumes.
san Francisco Chronicle.

Precious Perfumes.
san Francisco Chronicle.
The rose is one of the most valuable of |
the limited series of flowers available to the |
perfumer When dried it is useful in sach-
cts or scented powders; distilled, it yields
rose water and the well-known altar, and |
subjected to enfeurage it gives oil, pomade
and alcoholate The variety chiefly used
is the hundred leaved rosa dentifoia, aud
is grown for commercial purposes most cX-
tensively in Turkey, India and the south
of France The altar of rose is a light
yellow or straw-colored liquid, possessing a
high degree of concentration, the charac-
teristic odor of the flower and a diffusive
ness and presidency that render it of great
service to the perfumer.
OF the citrine family, consisting of the
two great divisions of lemons and oranges,
the bitter or Seville orange is the most
valuable species to the perfumer Its
flowers yield the altar known as the oil OF
neroli, or neroly, and by enHeurage a
pomade and alcoholatc OF delightful fra
GRANGE. The rind of the ripe fruit contains
a useful oil and the small unripe berries
and leaves also furnish oil. Another
orange of importance is that known as the
bergamia, from which the oil of bergamot
is produced. The common lemon gives an
essence having both perfume and flavor,
while from the citron is taken the truly
delightful essence known as the altar of
cedrdt
By euheurage the modest violet yields
an odor which Is universally admired for
its delicacy and sweetness. The chief vio-
let beds are at Nice, where the plants are
bedded in the shade of orange or acacia
groves Approximations of the scent of
the violet are found in the acacia, the orris
and in mayllwood, native of Australia
The acacia referred to is a small tree or
shrub which grows only in southern lati
tudes. and the flowers, which are yellow
and about the size of large pea, are cassie
flowers These are treated by enaeurage.
Cassie must not be- contounded with cassia,
which i the common cinnamon.
The tuberose Is dubious plant, first
noticed by old writers as the Indian hya-
ciuth The odor Is obtained by enfieurage.
( and Is not only favorite in Its pure state,
I but enters into the formation of the most
recherche bouquets, France, Italy and
I Spain contain the chief gardens of the
Z tuberose, although there Is no reason why
/ in this industry, a. in 50 many Others, Cal
I ifornia should DO, enter the competing field.
/ Lavender, rosemary and patehouly are
all herbs. The two torsacr are quite well
known in this oogatry, the hst-named is
an Indian plant, resembling our garden
sage. To the natives 1t Is known as put
chapat, both leaves aud stems yielding an
altar Of great strength and very peculiar
oior
Z OF the spice series cloves aud cinnamon
I are the only ones that are much used 10
F perfumery, and these are chiefly employed
/ 10 soaps. The Glove Is largely cultivated
I in the IVES, Indies aud the Mslacca Islands,
while the cinnamon l. DOT the bark Of coui-
mcrce. but comes from 4 smaller tree, and
I has a mi!dcr odoF aud favor, with iain,
/ touch If mushiucSS. Cassia comes from
7 China, the true cinnamon from Ceylon.
l Two odorons grasses, natives Of India,
+ furnish affairs Of extensive usefulness One
I Is lcmon grass, having a strong resemblance
/ 10 oder to the lemon vcTbgua, and FROM i;
nearly al our extracts OF yerbena and
sverbrua water are made The other
altar i ciirouella. a perfume which most
persons have made acquaintance With in
the so-ealiei honey soap.
The wood Of the sandal tres, native Of
the West ladies, gives eurioas odcr,
grcaiiy admired in oriental countries and
much valued BIZ Us Ii Is both used 10
( substance aud distilled for is altar. Yer
siyert, or kus kus, ashreadhke Indian root,
/ furnishes ano;her perfume Of the same class
a. sandal, hu, sharper aud more approach
( ing aoral odors Il Is s,roag aad durable
I osior. that gives is characteristic 70 the
/ cashmere bouquet soap The altar Of
vertiysri Is much higher in CO., ihaa even
I that Of rosss.
/ Bitter almonds. though containing no
affair in their natural state, yield one By
I the reaction Of their constituents IN the
presence Of water. Thus the still furnishes
( us the almond odor, which. while sickenins
I ia itself finds place ia minute quantities
n
10 many of the finest soral compounds.
Vanilla i the capsule Of beautiful
+ creeping plant, native 10 Mexico and South
America. II Is generally from six to ten
inches IN length, about oue-iourth Of an
/ inch in diameter, cylindrical IN shape,
4 iaperiug toward either end and slightly
T aa,tencd. The color Is dark brown The
I interior contains soit Of pulp filed with
/ lil,le shining black seeds. Its favor and
I color are both familiar.
The origin Of ambeFgris vas long mys-
lery. bur ], is now Known to be diyeased
secretion OF the spcrmaee;i whale. Il Is
I found iloatiag on the surface Of the sea,
aud has an olor which Is extremely an
T pleasant when pure, but which gives mel
I lowness and permanently to mixtures
I Civet Is i dark brown. semi-auid secretion,
obtained from the eivet cat, a native Of
[ Africa aud Indis. IL Is found in an cx-
I ternal pouch or receptacle peculiar % this
animal It's properties are 10 general sim
+ liar to ambergris. but its odor harmonizes
more perfectly with floral compounds.
( Musk is also a secretion, and Is obtained
I from the musk deer, pretty little animal
I inhabitins the higher mountain ranges of
/ Tonauiu, China and Thihet, The musk is
found in small pocket or pouch under the
I belly Of the deer, aud, being cut off By the
hunters, becomes hard aud dry and pre-
I serves It's contents as an unctioas powder
of a reddish brown color. It's powerful,
warm, aromatic odor blends well with every
other scent, and gives them permaneney
without being intrusive.
1t may seem a little surprising that from
this limited list OF materials such a variety
Of perfumes can be made; but these few
distinct types have many relations Ii Is
this knowledge, together with the art of
hlenhinr.. that narmits the nerlumer 10 i'm