The weekly Floridian. [volume] (Tallahassee, Fla.) 1867-19??, 1889-09-10

Fall COlOrs-COmbinati Capes-
Long ClOakS--Ways of Waking.

A peculiar rust color, called Tour EitL, in
honor of the Elfel tower, is a prominent shade
in fall imp0rtaliOns, and is expected 10 Misplace
the terra cottas, yelowish browns and other
kindred hues in vogue 1t does NOT, however,
conflict with greyish blues, old tapestry green's
yellowish reds, dahlia and other blendings
which, produced in wool or silk form the plain
material that serves as an offset to combination
fronts, borders and panels in great variety Of
design and richness. Comparatively lew per-
sons can afford to purchase these elegant silks
but the fine woods show beautiful combinations
not only in tapestry patterns of answering fab
rio, but in higher tones of silk, yelvetS, veOurs
and even plush, the latter, however, being most
frequently placed as a border that serves the
purpose Of frame to some pictorial display.
Less expensive woods are adorned with floral
and other patterns done in mohair, and by its
contrasting shine, very pretty results are OBJ
tanned at moderate expense
VELVET FLOWERS,
Leaves and fea;hery grasses woven in black on
the new colored groundworks are handsomest Of
all, and vary perpetually from bold designs to
small buds and sprays Empire wreaths appear
and likewise bouquets caught loosely by flying
ribbons; some patterns are all over, or again
leave room for the fine simmer OF silken
threads thrown up to the surface III wOOls
or in case Of armure or faille silks, for an exhi-
biliOn of the rich body OF the goods, since new
faillcs especially are distinctly handsome in
thick reps that are closely rivaed, however, by
the softer attractions Of armures Silks OF all
descriptions have received great impetus from
the Exposition manufacturers have endeavored
to outvie each other and judging fom these first
importatons of Lord and Taylor, the like has
never before been witnessed.
SHOULDER CAPEs
of cloth are very noticeable in their department
of sheet garments and sure sign that they will
much Those COlOroU cloth O.
cessive rows take the lead and as new depart
ure, may be mentioned, some having long front
ends. In longer garments, the Crsuline cloak,
so called because a close imitation OF that order
of nuns, shows even the cOnvcnual hood and Cir
die, while nun like brown cloth perfects the re-
semblance. Very worldly adornments of bor-
ders and perpendicular stripes appear at times,
however; this being in harm my with the Dor
dered dress patterns; some even are In tapestry
all over patterns and later on, it is not mproba-
bic that rich silks with or without kindred Orna-
mentations will belle the sanity origin Of the
Ursuine. In the making of
NEW DRESSES,
There is considerable conflict Of thought, and
if from the same, freedom should arise similar
to that which rcigns at present, the benefit will
be proportionaie. 1t is conceded that faithful
portrayals OF Marguerite's costume IN Fdu@ are
being already prepared in cloth, and once intro
duced, they may extend 10 higher class material.
Fifteenth century dresses show skirt of one
material slightly draped above another, while
strong efforts are made iOr a revival OF the gen
une Empire dresses with very sh ut waists.
revival OF the old time coral strand about the
neck, the beautifully artistic Empire couture
with golden tillet about the head, shows il re-
verting 10 classic outlines and the long ago il
is certain that ladies are firing of a perpetual
Directoire with inherently stiff outlines, and
thus the signs OF the times point to soft falling
drapeIy. But with sudden caprice, ideas most
in favor may be abandoned and the next month
will be critical time in the world of dress.
Lucy CARTER