The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-10-27

/ QraperleS OF tne present rlQluR gown.
Some women have to button their plain
tight bodies with butfonhOok after they
mount, otherwise dreadful cal nifty would
| happen. Altogether the riding habit is
| better calculated to reveal and express the
human form divine than the decollete even
| ing dress or a wet Narragansstt Pier bath
ing gown, thus furnishing another illustra-
ton of the fact that the society woman,
while she is often prudish, is sometimes less
modest than she might be- Not that she
means TO be immOdest, but her standards
are queer, that is all An honest, divided
skirt which would enable her to ride in the
only safe and healthful way in which a
horse is ever mounted, that is astride,
would shock her sensibihties, which are left
quite untouched by the folds of broadcloth
which outline her figure in a man
ner far more suggestive and entangle
her feet in a fall. A young English
woman, a grand niece, l believe, of Lady
Ashburton, has been exploring the Yellow
stone this summer, and day or two since
she showed me the habit in which she rode.
1t was of fine dark blue broadcloth, with
the stamp Of a first class tailor The Di-
rectory-Jac was not without its queer
little coat tails behind. In front it opened
over blouse vest of dark blue surah and
turned back In revers. The skirt vas
plated to band, and was really two killed
skirts, clothing each leg separately. When
the wearer stood still the fact that her
draperies were divided was not apparent,
and when she walked it was not disagreed
Die. The habit was not graceful enough to
commend itself for any but special purposes,
out for horseback riding or bicycling it had
obvious advantages Its owner was so
welded to it that she said she would never
mount horse again in a place where it
could not be worn.
Boston has been seeing Mrs. Jenness
mlller's new winter gowns. Some few of
us saw them in New York before she packed
her trunks for lecturing tour. One has a
plain full skirt Of dark London fog-colored"
plush with two bands of narrow cut steel
passementerie about the bottom. The
bodice is laid quantity in surplice folds, the
Sleeves have little puffs at the top, and the
browning feature of the whole is a magnih-
cent cut steel girdle. A dinner dress Of old
rose satin brocade is trimmed with pearl
passementerle. A green velvet tea gown
mas front OF soft ivory white silk. A
magnificent evening dress with a velvet
orocaded bodice and court train is
entirely covered in front with
point and duchesse laces. Some of Mrs,
Mlller's newer street costumes are tailor
gowns made on the gown form,n which is
the basis OF all the Jenness Miller costumes
Mrs Miller is lie to make women admire
her novel underwear, because it is all so
exquis1tely fashioned. Not a belle nor a
bride OF the 400 spends more money or
more pains on the latest filmy daintiness in
silk lingerie pardon the BULL than does
this shrewd and canny dress reformer.
when she drops her gown on the lecture
platform to stand revealed with her lovely
arms bare murmur Of admiration for the
SOFT ecru or pink and white or sea green
pongee Turkish leglets goes up from every
woman in the crowd. Mrs. Miller travels
TINS winter with her husband and publisher.
conrad Miller, who sometimes acts as lady's
maid, and is usually presented from the
platform.
Apropos of Mrs. Miller, Lucy Stone has
been giving some of her "reminiscences of
the Dloomer days. Elizabeth Cady Stan
Ton, Susan b. Anthony, Elizabeth Gerritt
Smith and others wore the useful but I'M.
slightly garments of this early and Inflated
dress reform. Though Mrs. Stone does not
say SO, Miss Anthony with her thin figure
must have been the farthest removed from
beauty OF the courageous women who bore
without hlnching the pointings of the irrev-
erent finger of scorn. Mrs Stanton had
dignity enough to carry off the much
rldlculed thablliments with some degree of
ease. Mrs. Stone herself, so have heard
it said of her, was so small and SO slender
tnat, despite her recollectio1s of hootipg
crowds on Broadway and the outspoken
CRITICISMS of audiences at public
meetings, she suffered less than most
OF her bodily comfortable but mentally
tortured companions, being mistaken fire.
quently for a little girl. I have in my pos
session an old newspaper In which the first
appearance In Boston of Amelia Bloomer
In 1901 is thus chronicled: "Mr. Bloomer
made his appearance for the first time in
Washington street yesterday afternoon,
attracting the notice Of all, entirely eclips-
ing the female members Of his family who
were In the streets at the same time His
suit was a black hat, worn jauntily on the
left OF the perpendicular, light summer
cravat. standing dickev, dark checked
Marsellles vest, frock coatee skirt very
snoIp, turkish pants, large legs and gath
cred round the ankle to a close fit. black
galter boots, small walking stick, with ton
In ms mouth. 1t was acknowledged by all
that ne was the man, and he was conpratu-
lated accordingly. As he passed the head
OF Franklin street a recently returned
californian rendered him his hat in the true
FL Dorado style, but he took no notice of
In "a, oHer ana passed on the other side. Mr..
bloomer is tue man after all -
Somewhat less ribald is another descr;n-
ton: IA changeable purple and white silk
extending some two inches below the knees.
sleeves as close as can be worn with com
fort, but less tight than the fashion of 1S38
wrought muslin wristlets, two iucbes in
width; straw hat with AZ inch rim lined
with white silk and tied With plain white
ribbon; black silk viste trimmed with lace
ana tassels; trousers same material as draSv
gathered closely at the ankle with a nrattv
two-inch ruffie below just covering the ton
OF the congress gaiter, the tops of which are
prunella and the sides patent leather. The
visiting or parlor dress buttons but half
way up and then has ono gold or pearl but
ton at the throat, thereby causing the dres,
to lie open in front in an easy and graceful
manner, revealing a white linen bosom
One Boston bride was married in white
satin boomers, aud Mrs. Partinpton sold
that when she was a blooming lass size had
SO many beaux that they called her a
walking Nosegay, but they shouldn't make
a Bloomer Of Der if she lived to the ace of
Methus Alem. The boomers were van
quished by gibes and jests and the street
gamins.
Mrs Cleveland has gained considerable
| hesh since leaving the white house and is a
much healthier looking woman. as a result
or her summer outing, than the thin and
ratner saIlow person who took up her abode
IN New York last spring. She has regained
also some Of her old brilliant color and is
more nearly like what she was as a girl
bride. Washington never really agreed
| with her, nor did late hours. People who