Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-07-06

cannon pealed over Teheran at sunrise.
This was the signal which announced to every
one that the shah Of Persia was to start on that
| day on journey at least Of several days. 1t
| might be merely for hunting expedition, or
| 1t might be for an excursion to distant part
| Of his dominions. But although to many at
the capital this was the first information Of his
| majesty's proposed absence, those who had
passed in the neighborhood Of the ark, or pal
ace, during the preceding week would have
been aware that something Of the sort was on
foot, because Of the hustle and preparation
| evident in the squares and streets Of the royal
| enclosure.
The shah in his present Journey to Europe
| is accompanied by seventy individuals, from
ministers to ordinary attendants. This seems
| a large number, but it is a mere trife compared
with the multitude that forms his cortege when
he travels in Persia. In the first place. wher-
ever q halt Is made, except at a few parks
where he has stationary psvilions tents must
be spread for the king and his suite, and also
his wives, should any of them accompany him.
These tents are very sumptuously decorated
and are OF vast dimensions. A wall or screen
OF similar stuff with the tents is set up around
the encampment, adding materially to the
amount OF baggage.
THE ROYAL CARAVAN.
To the tents must be added many costly rugs
and carpets to spread over the ground. and
numerous mattresses besides no end of cook
ing utensils and other impedimenta. 1t is evil
dent that an army Of camels and sumter mules
and horses are required to transport this para
phernaila OF royalty. A great baggage train is,
| therefore, sent ahead a day in advance in order
that on arriving at the camping ground the
shah may ind everything in readiness and the
meal smoking that shall appease his august APP
petite. This baggage train is still further in
| creased by the way from the fact that there
must be double set of everything; thus. while
he is occupying one camp another is being pre-
pared at the next station.
During, the greater part of the year travelling
| in Persia must be done at night, or early in the
DAY, owing TO the heat. Hence, the shah starts
| from his palace by sunrise. and has made a long
stage into the country before most people else.
| where have arisen. One may naturally SUD-
| pose that having disposed Of such large num-
| Der OF servants In expediting the baggage the
king would need only handful of retainers to
accompany him IN person. But, quite the con-
trary is the fact. He is attended by all the ira
dltional pomp of an oriental sovereign, not so
much from desire for ostentation as because
OF the need OF protection in thinly-peopled
country, overrun in many regions by unruly
tribes OF pastoral nomads; in part, also to i'm
press upon his subjects strong perception of
his authority and power.
Orientals are constitutionaly affected more
by what appeals to the eye than by any other
means. Some of the royal progresses are I'M
aouotedly taken for the purpose of maintain
Ing among the people a vivid idea of the gov
eminent, and thus forcing on their minds the
| importance Of order and obedience 1t is
proper to state here that brigandage has been
efectually put down in Persia during the pres
ent reign. The cortege Of the shah on such
occasions consists, therefore, of several of the
ministers Of his cabinet generally those who
are personal favorites and are gifted with con-
versational abilities. Sometimes, however.
when important matters of state are pending,
the minister of foreign affairs accompanies him,
the foreign Office being left in charge of an ex-
perlenced secretary. The constant need of
communication with the capital. Also reoaires
the attendance OF large number of mounted
messengers, who travel around and fly over the
country at gallop.
AN ARMY OF SERVANTS.
Each of the dignitaries or upper servants at
tending his majesty on a journey must have
his own assistants, which swells the general
train. On the march the pishketmels, or
refreshment servants, carry a sack suspended
to the saddle, in which are kalians or water
pipes and tobacco, and any moment they must
be prepared to light a pipe, a process very
different and far more complicated than the
lighting Of cigar. When the kalian is ready
the attendant rides by the side of his master
and holds the pipe, while the latter ambles
| gently over the plain and contemplatively
| smokes. This is the acme OF luxury in travelling
to which our pleasure-lovlng jeunesse doree
has not yet attained
We read that Cesar dictated to his secretaries
when on the march, they writing in the saddle
A Persian official may do that and smoke
besides. Had the great Roman added that final
touch In aid OF his opulent genius it is diff cult
| to estimate the result. Anti-tobacconists NAV
shrug their shoulders at this sentiment So
| much the worse for them
To all this multitude of attendants and ami
| mails must be added the tachtrayans of litters
Tor the ladies who accompany the shah. These
htters are covered and protected by lattice
work, and the lady reclines comfortably on
cushions. The tachtravan is attached to two
long poles, which are borne by mules one be-
1ore and one behind, The mules are gaily
caparisoned. and the leader bears around his
neck resonant string Of bells that sound
quantity enough the train wends its slow
way over the lonely mountain passes and wide
waste plains of Persia.
The children and female servants or slaves.
are carried In kajevehs which are canopied
seats, borne by mules or camels, slung one on
| each side, over the back of the animal, like
saddlebags.
THE ROYAL GUARDS.
Finally, we must add to the train of the shah
the mounted regiment of royal guards, called
Gholsms, splendid corps numbering some
l,5OO, and cloud of regular cavalry. On a
long journey several regiments of infantry NAV
also swell the cortege, besides horde of camp
followers, such as dancing men and women
and the like. 1t is said that when his majesty
went to Meshed his train numbered l5 900 souls,
which is quite probable.
The encampment is laid by a water-course
| whenever possible, under the shade of groves
OF wide-spreading chevans, peculiarly grateful
| In that sultry cline. There Nasr-ed-Deen Shah
finds relaxation from the cares of state or at
| least gives them attention under circumstances
SO agreeable as to relieve the burden which
| rests on the shoulders Of king. Men once in
power may not willingly resign it, but no
greater mistake can be made than to imagine
| that wealth. luxury and power can influence
kismet to drive away the perplexity or anxiety
of which every mortal, from helot to king
must have a share, in one way another. He
| who seeks or inherits posts of responsibility
| must pay toll.
Nasr-ed-Deen Shah always eats alone. There
in his vast and magnificent pavilion on the
| mountain height, from whence he looks forth
in the cool Of the evening over some of the
| most magnificent scenery in the world which