The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1889-02-21
AMONG THE AZORES.
Under the Shadow of PicO.-A Semi-TrOpi-
cal People.-The Wonderful Chaldeira.-
DOnkeys.-A Portuguese Ball.
CIrY OLE HoRTA. FAYAL

CRY OF HoRTA, FAYAL,
In my boyhood days | read good
deal about fairyland, and was half in
clined to pronounce il all fiction.
never expected to come very near to
such scenes in the reality, and was not
prepared for the surprises that the
islands ofthe Azores had in store for me.
On our approach to the group that lies
clustering in mid-Atlantic, the varied
scenes of tropical beauty seemed to rise
from the ocean like an enchantment.
Although lying in the latitude of New
York, about two thousand miles to the
eastward. the Azores are rarely visited
by Americans for pleasure or for trade.
They form a group of islands, volcanic
in origin and delightfully."- picturesque,
that have been Inhabited for several
centuries by the Portuguese colonists
and their descendants, and are nine in
number.
When our good ship swung ound the
headland and glided into the harbor of
Horta, on the eastern side of Fayal, the
principal island of the group, most be-
witching scene sprang into being. The
waters of the crescent-shaped bay We're
outspread in tranquil beauty. A few
steamers and ships were at anchor. The
shores of Fayal seemed to rise from the
waters edge, with gradual ascent to
lofty hills, whose slopes were covered
with luxuriant vegetation and orange
groves, within white-walled enclosures.
At the foot of the hills, whose green
slopes are lifted above the housetops,
the city of Horta runs along the shore,
with the whitened walls and the red
| roofs Of tha hnncnG OF onHinn n ont in nlna r
relief. Across the bay on another
island Mount Pico looms up in majestic
proportions, eight thousand feet above
the sea, with its summit wreathed in
clouds and covered with snow
The contrasts are bewildering-the
snow crowned mountains, the tropical
verdure of the islands, the blue waters
of the harbor, and the cherry little city
on the shore | caunot begin to tell you
of the wonderful transformation scenes
that occur in this Azorean climate, how
Pico at one time appears in clearest out
line, and again is suddenly hidden from
view by dense bank of clouds and fog.
The principal business street of Horta
extends along the waterfront, and con-
tains many substantial buildings. The
streets generally are narrow, but we'll
paved, clean and orderly The place has
a population of about ten thousand,
mostly dusky Portuguese, whose cos
Tunes, customs and habits have come
down to them from remote times.
They are shiftless and indolent peo-
pie, and live with limited comforts in
small houses, that are built of blocks of
lava, with white washed walls and red
tiled roofs. With fertile soil and a
mild climate, the means of livelihood
are so easily obtained that the ways of
the sluggard seem to be adopted by conf
mon consent, So far as | may judge,
the only energy displayed is 10 fruit
growing and fishing.
Every householder has an orange grove
attached to his place, and no higher
compliment can be paid 10 the owner
than to help ones self to all the fruit he
may be able to eat. Even the Hotel
Fayalense, where we found generous
hospitality, has an orchard of orange
trees laden with the golden fruit. dare
say that the landlord himself was aston
lshed at the feat of one of the officers
who, without any qualms of conscience
or disarrangement OF physiological func-
tions, succeeded in eating two dozen Or
anges at one sitting.
One is constantly jostled in the streets
by loaded donkeys, lazy men and boys,
who require the greater part of the mar
row passage-way, as they Jog along TO
and from market. The stately matron
glides by most demurely clad in a capote,
that covers the head with hood of i'm
mense size and hangs in drapery to the
feet. She is the embodiment of prlm
dignity, and looks as though she might
have walked out of some picture of the
middle ages. The market women with
baskets on their heads, and the black
eyed girls with vessels of water from
the springs, are equally suggestive of
ancient times.
There is much that is interesting
about the donkey, that threads the
streets with the air of the greatest IN
concern. He is the verltable beast of
ourien in the Azores, somewhat larger
than the ordinary variety of his species,
and is used for carrying packs as well as
for riding. A thick PAD rests upon his
back, and to this Is attached a wooden
frame shaped like a saw-buck, that
serves for saddle.
You are constantly urged by boys to
take donkey, with the perslstency of a
civilized hack driver. Now for pleas
ure trip, perhaps to the mountains, into
the country, anywhere on the island !!
There are enough donkeys and boys to
go around, whose services may be Sc
cured for nominal sum.
You sit upon this model saddle, not
astride, but with your feet unsupported
by stirrups dangling at the side, and
even without bride and reins. A boy
trots along by your side and leads the
donkey, or as is more commonly the
case, belabors him soundly at regular
intervals and goads him on between
times with very sharp stick. AS re-
suit, for a few moments, fair gait is
attained. 1t is well, however, to cling
firmly to the pommel of the saddle, for
without warning one is in perpetual
danger of finding himself thrown to the
ground.
Among the objects of interest to be
seen in Fayal, to which visitors are
pretty sure to be directed. the most won
derful of all is the Chaldeira, an extinct
volcano, within riding distance from the
city. For a few miles the way leads
through pleasant groves, aud makes
gradual ascent toward the interior of the
Island. The road becomes more broken
and difficult, and in time exceedingly
steep. After two hours of tedious rid
ing our party dismounts, aud leaving
the donkeys in care of guard, proceeds
on foot TO the top of the mountain, &C
companied with guides. -
The volcano is six thousand feet high,
and is sometimes called the NEST of the
clouds" because at night the vapory
masses often settle down in the crater
and in the early hours of the day come
rolling over the edge and down the sides.
AS we assembled dense fog enveloped
us, and rainstorm came pouring down
in torrents. Hesitating, the guides
urged us on, and in few moments we
emerged from the storm. We were
above the clouds, with nothing below us
visible.
On the summit grand sight is re-
vealed. The crater has a circumference
of six miles. and is two thousand feet
deep with almost perpendicular walls.
IL is no easy matter to Chamber down
into the cavern, clinging to the bushes
and shrubs for support,
The shell of the crater, of circular form
and two miles in diameter, rose above
and around us, on which the sky seemed
to rest, making an impressive scene. A
little lake slumbered at our feet, fire.
SCARED rocks lay strewn about, and a
painful stiffness was in the air.
On our return to Horia, the same fog
belt was passed in descending the noun
tain, and the same rainstorm was en-
countered. Our dOnkeys were found
awaiting us, on whose backs we made
into tho nitU FQIhnr the