The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-06-29

stripes, the olives, the terra Gotta and
browns with white lines afecontrasted with
fuA white muslin stand shirt sleeves
showing at the wrist orswith sleeves and
NAT plated ruffie at 1.-The neck, surrounding
it and crossing from right 70 left, following
the hne OF the full, cross cover waist. The
mats are or straw, with hardly any trim
ming but spray. or broken wreath Of flow
ers, and the additional finish of a plated
inning OF gauze, lisse or tulle The white
nnlsn 70 the coloreds cottons and muslines
has taken the place of the white dresses.
Few white cotton costumes are seen, en-
Droldery not making up for the absence of
the note OF color and the difference being
too striking between the chalky, OPAQUE
white and a solid mass of color in the wav
OF sash, ribbons ard the like. Thus, the
only admissible white is tinted or transpa-
rent, capable of meditation and of easy
transition, being already provided with a
medium between itself and the world of
living color
variation from the "white lights' is
seen in contrasts with black. The colors in
the gowns are the same, the contrast eff
fected bya wide, black sash and large.
black lace or chip hat, or by a long and
wide black lace scarf, which is drawn in at
the waist and spread out so as to cover the
front Of the skirt. This gives handsome
finish to the front of straight, single skirt
for the street, and does not require the ex-
penslve manipulation of modiste.
RENAISSANCE OF THE LACE DRESS.
Last winter it was observed that the
figured lace dresses had given place to
striped gauze and dotted tissues for evening
wear. 1t is little curious now to see
lace" dresses with ribbon streamers worn
under very ordinary circumstances upon
the street. For really elegant costumes, the
large figured French and Spanish laces have
given place to point d'esprit dotted nett.
the sprigged laces, beautiful limitations of
chantilly in small, set patterns and the
netted grenadines TALL silk which are ex-
pensive, but always handsome and durable.
These are used as full panels and parts of
skirts and bodices in conjunction with silk
or such expensive mixtures of silk ard wool
as bengaline.
1t has always been said of American
women that while they surpassed the
women of every other country in the style
and cost of certain conventional form of
dress, they lacked daring and originality
from them. The three-cornered hat
accompanies the disectoire coal at Bar
Harbor the "Blaizer" appears at
Newport, while at recent gathering at
seaside resort, four young ladies wore
| Greek dresses and might have sat for pict-
uressof Vestal Virgins, so closely was every
detail OF dress and head-dress copied No
| unpleasant attention was excited either.
| These young ladies had formed themselves
into the "Sappho" club, and it is beginning
to be understood that women can consult
their own taste, provided they do not vio-
| late the canons of all good taste. by max
| ing themselves conspicuous on the street.
Even widows, that much abused class.
have not been entirely exempt from the
march of improvement. The deadly double
Grape bonnet, the widows cap and the
crushing pail of Grape called well" have
| almost disappeared The priestly fabrics
have been boon in removing some of the
| weight of gloom which attached to the old
| bombazines and paramettas, and now
the same manufacturers have intro
duced long veil 9fof nuns yelling,
which is used for bonnet and
veil, reducing at the same time both cost
| and weight. With one Of these wells. a
| black bonnet frame, quarter of a yard of
ribbed Grape cut on the bias and a dozen
| mourning pins, widows bonnet is made
in ten minutes, which is as toierable in hot
weather as the nature of the case will adj
nit The Grape is for pulling upon the
'front.' The veil is simply pinned on to form
| the bonnet, and requires q little art, but is
very quickly and easily done by lay
ing one end of the veil in
| straight folds across the front, drawing
the fullness over the crown, and laying
it in folds at the back with pins. leaving
the entire length remaining to trail behind
This is not so useless as it seems, for it can
often be utilized as mantle, and it fulfills
its mission in satisfying the requirements
of those who, when they talk about what
they do not understand, are apt to talk I'M
pleasantly. The veil is deeply bordered,
and while comparatively light, has the
effect of depth in mourning, and is at once
graceful, simple and serviceable.
The 'collapsibleo bonnet mentioned in a
previous letter is having an immense sue
cess in England, where it originated, and
furnishes great desideratum for travel
ing. The toque, the empire shape in bon
nets, and rather high crowned hat fold
into the compass of closed fans and occupy
less space than the ''crushn opera hat used
by gentlemen. A hat. three bonnets and a
toque with feathers will go easily into a
box five inches deep and twelve square.
This would revolutionizs modern trunks
and closets, for bandboxes and the space
they occupy are the unsolved and unsoluble
problems of every wardrobe and every
journey. JENNY JUND.