Morning journal and courier., 1889-04-04
SCENES IN KOREA.
A Visit 50 the Monastery of An.Pfen.
 TPaI Mall Gazette

A
 IPal Mall Gazette.l
 All the buildings of An-pien are in the style to which the traveller so soon gets used in the East-rectangular wooden structures with high-peaked roofs and richly carved curving caves, generally with three doors at one side and the chief idol facing the largest central entrance. Before him are sets of al- tar utensils and little brass tallow lamps and ioss-sticks, which the pious visitor purchases for few cash and lights at his prayers. The walls are covered with silk and brocade, mostly very old and time stained; the ceiling is marvelously carved and gilded, perhaps 8 huge dragon appearing at one end and worm ing himself in and out of the masses of or nament to the other; and half dozen songs and drums invite the hand of the too.willing pilgrim. The interior of these temples is tawdry, but the massiveness of the wooden architecture, it's bright colors, it's pictur- esquely contrived vistas of gate and gable and column and pavilion, taken together with the wonderful natural situation of the place, form an impressive and romantic spec tacle. The most curious sight in the monas- tery, however, is four huge idols of brilliants ly painted wood, carved with good deal of appreciation of the heroic human face and form, which stare at one another across a narrow passage from behind the bars of two great cages, pair of war gods being on one side and king and queen (the latter playing @ colossal mandolin) on the other. My Japa- nese vocabulary unfortunately did not per- init me to make through my interpreter any | inquiries as to their abstract theologic sig ni6cance.
 The head-gear of the monks beggars de- scription, and we held our sides again and again as @ new specimen emerged from the dormitories. Hats of paper, of wood, of | bamboo, of horsehair and of wire; hats round, square, triangular, cylindrical, comi- | cal and spherical; hats like clothes basket, 1 like sieve, like @ pumpkin, like flying crow, like paper boat, like three three-cor- | nered gridirons fastened together at the l edges, half of them affording not the slight- | est pretence of protection against cold or l rain, or sun, but being either symbols of sa- credotal rank or else simply the offspring of
 a disordered creative imagination. Every priest too carried or wore @ rosary of red wooden beads, polished like crystal by cease
 less lingering. I told my interpreter to ask one of them by and by privately whether a
 string of these could be purchased as souv- | enir. He, however, blurted out the question to the Chief Abbot in the presence of fifty priests, and the hospitable and delightful old gentleman instantly took off his own TO- sary bracelet of specially big beads and
 handed them to me, saying, "They cannot
 be purchased; this is 8 present" Naturally
 before leaving wished to make him some present in return, but ransacking my bag
 produced nothing whatever suitable. My
 revolver or knife could not spare, the old
 gentleman had already refused to taste whis'
 key, and there appeared to be literally moth
 ing to give him. I recollected, however
 that had had some new silk pocket hand
 kerchiefs made and embroidered in Japan
 and one of these presented with many air
 and the explanation (from the captain) tha