Wichita eagle., 1889-08-25
A BANQUET IN CHINA.
AN AMUSING DESCRIPTION OF A
CEREMONIOUS REPAST.

CEREMONIOUS REPAST.
Sixty Different Dishes in One Course, and
Several Courses-Painful Attempts a,
Music-Europeans Didn't Know How to
Eat DecentIy-The Cooks Grateful.
The Chinese enjoy the distinction Of being
the greatest gourmands and most voracious
eaters in the world, and this amusing accoun,
of their achievements at the table certainly
goes to prove it:
A few days before our departure from Can
ton we found at our lodgings q visiting card
left by Mow~Qua, wealthy tea merchant
with an invitation to dine with him. Tn.
invitation was written upon avery thin sheet
Of red paper, much larger than those we us<
for g similar purpose. About half past IL
the afternoon. accordingly, we repaired Il
the hospitabfe mansion Of MowsQua, preceded
by train OF servants bearing immense Ian
terms, and BY way Of precaution we had taker
care to stop our ears with cotton to avoid tht
terrible consequences OF a sudden outburst Of
Chinese music.
AS soon as the guests had taken their seats
which were ranged in two long paraual lines
tea was served in large cups with fat saucer
placed over them and set upon walters O.
gold or silver. The Chinese and the Japanese
as we know, take their tea without milk O,
sugar. A few leaves are put into the cuI
and boiling water is poured upon them, after
which the infusion remains long enough Il
steep and is then transferred TO the saucer
and swallowed while it is quite hot. The tes
II1rx xhola bef ia
is colored sufficiently without containing any
sediment.
The musicians were stationed in an adioin
ing room, and among their number were sew
eral singers of celebrity. They played and
sang almost without intermission during the
whole affair. I was informed that II was
Chinese opera, but certainly the music wa.
far from agreeable. The Chinese themselves
however, appeared to pay very little atten.
ticn to it, although when there was IN inter
val Of silence they would make an occasional
observation or jest upon the words Of the
songs.
EATING pESSERT FIRST.
The banquet row began. We were con
Quoted into another apartment, where sew
Grad square tables with places for six per
sons, were so disposed as to form semi
circle On the side towards the center, they
remained unoccupied, but were entirely con
cealed by a scarlet cloth, with rich enbroid
cry in gold and silver thread, representing
the different flowers Of the country. The
host took bis seat at the table In the middle
of the group, and deputed one of his country
men to do the honors at each Of the others
In the front Of every table was an array O,
baskets filed with fruit and flowers, and be-
hind this appetizing display appeared a null
titut,e Of vases and tiny plates, containing
sweetmeats, small tarts, sausages, Pyramid
of candied oranges and plums and other deli
cacies. In short, the profuse variety of gas
tronomic riches did honor to the liberality o.
our host.
The Chinese never do anything in the
European manner, and therefore we began
with the dessert. Instead of plates three
small cups were set in front of each guest.
The one at our left contained soy, an arc
matte sauce with which the natives season
their food That In the middle is used in the
course Of the repast, ard upon the third is
laid the porcelain spoon with which soup is
eaten. Two small sticks, rounded at the ends,
and made Of ivory for the tables of persons
of wealth, were also provided for every
guest. 1t is rather difficult for foreigners to
manage these tiny utensils, although the Chi
nese handle them with great dexterity. One
of our number, who understands their Ian
guage, once heard the whispered remark;
"Only look at these wise Europeansl They
do not even know how 70 eat decently!" A
large package Of paper sheets, cut in tri-
angular form and tied together with red rib
bon, is laid near each plate, and these are
used for wiping the HI nds instead of nap
kins.
In the beginning Of ihe action Mow-Qua
courteously invited Us partake of the choic-
est Dishes and while we were eating he fire.
quently called our after ton to the fine flavor
Of a certain fruit or the rarity of a particular
bird. The first course was dispatched and
we were ready for fresh supplies.
Table cloths are never used In China, but
the covering upon the tables was now care
fully removed and another one substituted,
upon which was placed great variety Of
dishes A small cup was also put before each
person, for holding tho samtschu, strong
liquor obtained from the fermentation Of
rice, and which takes the place Of wine at
Chinese entertainments. Servants passed from
one to another of the guests, carrying large
fervescent state. I did not find this much
vaunted beverage particularly refreshing,
although there are several kinds varying In
excellence, and one that I have tasted COM
pares very favorsbly with brandy Of medium
quality.
THE COOKS RETURN THAMES
The Chinese are extremely polite to each
other on festive occasions Whenever they
wish to drink they apologize for taking such
o liberty, at the same time wishing you good
health and prosperity. Each one takes bis
cup in both hands and swallows the contents
at single draught. When he has finished
he turns it up for the inspection Of his neigh
Dor, to show him that not a single drop re-
mains in the cup. We were compelled to
observe the same odd custom for fear Of be-
ing open TO the charge Of discourtesy.
After the second course, which included
nearly sixty different dishes, the soups were
brought IN. These were served In small bowls
set In the center OF the table, and everybody
helped hfrusen from them with the porcelain
spoon have already mentioned Tea and
tobacco came in as Intermediate luxuriss,
enabling us to collect our energies and re-
turn with renewed vigor to the charge
Finally. when several other courses had
made their appsararce, each surprising the
one preceding b abundance, FIVE new tables
were ranged in tbs empty space opposite US
These were laden with roast meats, particu-
larly pork, and with different kinds Of birds
Ten cocks, dressed in snowy uniforms, then
entered :Ee room, and began the work Of
carving Two vrare asxicued IN earh In AHA