The national leader., 1889-02-16
FASHION NOTES.
delicate mesh wells should always

-Relcate mesh VeuS should always
accompany stringless bonuets.
-Braiding is still quite the thing for
Jackets and redlngotes, in designs of
Byzantine 6gures-wheels, Greek key.
patterns and Gothic arches.
"A novel combination for BRIDES
tea gown is amber gray Henrietta
cloth and amber crepe de chine In
damasse or plain weaving.
"A warm and elegant hairy camel's
hair materlal-moore CLOTHS very
fashionable for long coats and cloaks.
Also satin, peau-de sole and corded silk.
The English mania for coin jew
elry has brought forth gold wire brace
let Of three strands, united here and
there with little gold balls. and hav-
ing for pendant Roman coin.
According to fashion authorities
the habit of wearing removable trains
is growing. They are fastened to the
waist by handsome clasps and buckles,
which are ornamental as well as use
full.
"A muff made of black corded silk,
with many gaugings flying out into a
large frill on one side, had mouth IN
fur arranged round the other, under
which a bow OF black ribbon fell nearly
to the feet.
Embroidery is used every where
embroidery in steel or nickel on gray
cloth morning dresses, In silk and gold
on silk and evening dresses, On long
cloaks, on sorties de bal, on slippers and
even on gloves.
Silver shot black silks for ''sec-
Ond" mourning are novel and effective
fabrics. They will De trimmed with
Jet and silver galloonS or cut steel
passementeries and fringe showing a
mixture of steel and black.
Stockings, when not black, are
chiefly worn In tan and bronze shades
to match the shoes. Black silk stock
ings may be covered in front with
black jet, or a still more expensive
kind has broad insertion Of Brussels
lace.
The latest novelties in sealskin
garments are wraps made wholly OF
this EUR. cut with seams, darts and
jacket back, exactly in the style of a
dress waist. They are lined with
tufted silk and finished with pointed
peplum fronts. These wraps are be-
coming to slender forms only.
- very "ultra' style is the loose
flowing robe, which devoid Of all drap-
cry, envelops the form. However,
very few care to adopt this style as 1t
is extremely trying, except to slender
graceful girls. and even then only
those society bellies who have rather an
exalted opinion Of their figures care to
adopt t11s style.
"A modification Of Ele large Direc-
toire shape, Is a black felG hat with its
brim cut away in the back and made
smaller and rather pointed in front. A
band OF Jet is about the crown and
close to the front on one side are
draped loops Of old rose velvet and
many black tips, all falling forward.
One of the dotted Empire wells is worn
with this.
A very stylish cloth costume was
seen on the street the other day. 1t was
mahogany colored Russian redlngote
with gray cloth vest and skirt front.
Another was a laurel green long coat
with chamolse colored slcilienne cloth
waistcoat, with plated breadths in
front, trimmed across the foot with a
wide galloon of green and gold.
Now that the Empire gowns are 30
fashionable soft underwear is abso-
lutely necessary. so that the required
smoothness Of flow shall be unbroken
| by one stiff plalg or fold of heavy
muslin or starched cambric. The
soft India silk has been used but the
new Japanese crepe is fast superseding
it. These materials are made up in
entire sets of one color, trimmed Law.
ishly-in some cases fair y smothered
in laces and needle work.
The most prominent color in the
fashionable chapeau Is black, the
revival Of which is so general, that few
o; the fashionable hats or bonnets do
not show some vestige Of it. It shows
sometimes in the entire bonnet anu
sometimes only 10 the trimming. and
again it may be limited to band of
let or passementerie. A black feather
is the favorlte trimming for large
hat, and all hats, no matter how small
should have some black among its
decorations.
"A charming evening dress for a
young lady has a full skirt of white
spangled tulle oyer pettlcOat Of pale
blue satin; two square panels OF ivory
white peau-de sole embroidered in gold.
A princesse back is Of the peau-de sole
demi trained; the front of bodice is
draped on one side with the spangled
net, and on the other with folds of the
peau-de sole embroidered with gold.
On the right shoulder there Is small
bunch of pale blue ostrich tips frosted
with gold, the same in the hair, which
is done in the Recamier style, fan Of
ostrich feathers with gold sticks. Long
gloves of the palest tan and shoes Of
satin with gold heels. complete this
beautiful costume.
Fashions in hair dressing are
changing. Only a few stray curly
rings of tresses fall along the top of
the forehead new. as the fringe is no
longer the great feature of the coiffure.
Women who have intellectual fore-
heads, and who do net mind looking a
little severe, turn the hair straight up,
not stralning it of the forehead, but
prettlly rolling it over pad just above
the roots, Most faces ara best suited