Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-08-04
Men Should be Dressed in Wool,
Serge, Sealskin and Straw,
A PERFECT SUMNER COSTUME.
The Greatest Amount of Comfort for the
Lowest Price.
RESULT OF A FLANNEL SHIRT REFORM
WRITTEN FOR THE DIsPArcH.l

| q
spring sex he has liberated. That his effort
was timely is shown by the number of men
who have followed his example. The flannel
shirt is to-day the most popular garment of
| American summer wear, and next year will
see more worn than all other styles of shirts
| combined. But not the only way that man
should show his newborn independence and
keep cool is by wearing q flannel shirt
Equally important with the flannel shirt
| is the underwear. The coolest and most
sensible underwear is made of wool. The
| lighter the material the better. Angora or
Australian wool is the finest and most ex-
pensive. The shirt should be reasonably
| tight fitting and its sleeves should reach to
the wrists, so as to absorb all of the per-
spiration from the upper clothed portion of
the body. A suit of wooden underwear costs
from s. to Sc, and will last two seasons with
ordinary wear. 1t is mistake to think
that thin clothing or silk is as cool as wool.
The latter materials do not absorb moisture,
and on a hot day they stick to the body al
most as uncomfortably as linen laundried
shirt.
The coolest socks are of Isle thread or
silk, and cost from 30 cents to % pair.
BEST GOODS FOR SHIRTS.
When it comes to the flannel shirt there is
q large list of styles that next year promises
to be almost endless to choose from. There
are flannel shirts and flannel shirts. Some
are cool and some are hot Some coarse and
some fine. Some are costly and some are
cheap. Some are models of tastefulness and
works of art and some are ugly to the point
of hideousness-mere daubs turned out by
the dozen by pot-boilers pure and simple.
| The coolest flannel shirt is made of An
| CORA, Glasgow or French twilled wool It
| is one inch longer around the neck than the
linen shirt. Its bosom is Of single thickness.
1t is opened in front and is fastened with
plain pearl buttons. Gold and jeweled
studs should never be worn with flannel
shirt. The popular pattern this year is
either in narrow stripes or checks upon a
plain white or pink background. The
stripes which have the lead thus far are of
pink, blue, black, brown, and their beauty
is greatly enhanced by the use of silk
strand or thread. Sometimes the stripes in
the bosom are made to run crosswise over
the breast, but this style has not attained
marked popularity. Shirts of this sort cost
from 81 80 to S. each, and should last two
seasons if they are properly washed.
There is only one way to wash flannel
shirt to prevent undue shrinking, and this
should be used. An ignorant, but indus
trious laundress can, by the use of boiling
water and soap, transform a flannel shirt
that is two sizes too large for its owner, into
a creased and wrinkled necktie in half a
dozen washings. With care a flannel shirt
should shrink very little, and none at all
after the second or third washing.
Some men who allow their vanity to warp
their judgment buy silk shirts These are
-
pretty. One of the neatest STYLES has black
stripes upon a white background. 1t is
heavy and twilled and shines with luster
that no starch could give. 1t costs from 81
to SO, but it is not cool. Pongee silk shirts
are lighter and less attractive in appear
ance while they have the same defect. They
are hot and do not absorb the moisture.
Now that a man has chosen his underwear
and flannel shirt, he must select his neck
wear. The coolest and most appropriate tie
is made of light silk, blue or white in color.
and with white or blue figures. 1t should
be tied in bow or sailor knot and the loose
ends should droop gracefully over the
wearers breast.
SHALL WE WEAR sUsPENDERs.
Here comes another point that the free
man must consider. Shall we wear sus-
penders or not? That depends. Upon what?
Upon three things. First upon his size and
shape. If the man is stout with generous
girth of waist, he should unhesitatingly
stick to his suspenders. If he is slender,
with fair width of hips he can 20 brace
less with impunity.
Second-Does he intend to wear a waist
coat? If SO, suspenders may or may not be
worn, depending upon the freeman's prefer
ence. If he discards his waistcoat he must
let his suspenders 60 to-if he can.
Third-Will he buy his trousers ready
made? Then let him buy pair of suspend
ers also. Suspenderless trousers must be
made to order. They must fit the hips snug
and close.
If suspenders are discarded belt of mar
row silk should take their place. This may
be concealed by broad belt of folded silk,
but this is no cooler than a waistcoat and
while it lends to the wearer the picturesque
appearance of stage pirate between the
acts, sensible freeman will discard it with
out a moments hesitation.
In the choice of coat, vest and trousers,
the freeman must decide whether he is to
order seaside or a business suit. If the |
former he has many varieties to select from.
The coat should be loose-ftting sack. He |
should wear no waistcoat if possible and his |
trousers should be loose-leggedland flop at |
the ankles on windy days. The material |
may be of white or blue serge or flannel. |
The latter is preferable as it is thinner and |
does not shrink.
If he wants q business suit he has still |
greater latitude for his choice. The palm |
for comfort must be given to the SERGE The /
color may be whatever the wearer DESIRES |
though blue or gray are the colors most |
worn. The coat should be loose and a sack,
and the trousers should be cut trifle closer |
than those worn in the country. If he wears |
a waistcoat IL should be cut low and not fit |
too tightly around his body. Such a suit |
costs from SIG to $50, depending upon the
nerve of the tailor who makes it. Madras
coats made In India and woven out of some |
sort of seagrass are much worn, as we'll as
pongee silk coats. They are light and COM
Portable, but not as "dressy" as the serge.
For middle-aged freemen who lack the |
strength of mind to throw off all their chains |
at once, suits of loosely-woven cheviot or
coats of mohair or alpaca are cool and suit \
able.
THE STYLE OF FOOT WEAR.
Not the least important feature of the new
revolution is the approved style OF foot wear
Heretofore men under the gouty age have
paid little attention to the material of which /
their shoes are made, provided the fit was
all that could be asked. 1t is not so now.
Goodness has become q requite. The coolest
shoe OF course is low cut with no leather
about the ankle. The hottest shoe is made
of patent leather. 1t is the handsomest but
by all means the most uncomfortable. Next
in order comes the calf skin in all its va
rieties. The coolest leather is goat skin,
seal or kangaroo skin, and the coolest color
Is russet. These latter feathers contain little
oil, are porous, light and do not attract the
rays of the sun. Such shoes cost from IS to