, 1889-01-23
EXECUTIVE EPICURES
SOMETHING ABOUT THE SWELL
DINNERS AT WASHINGTON.

ANtelutuN REORGANIZATION 1olOnel Is IL
asperated by the Observation-Disclosures
Minister who spIurEed.
It was at the time Of Mr.. Buchanan's
administration that the most marked
change in dinner giving commenced. A
new mode of serving dinners came In,
more expensive, Of course, for IL necessi-
tated additional ervan and other auxil-
iaries. Gautier had opened 4 large con
dictionary and restaurant, and had, with
Wormley, q monopoly of serving swell
dinners. Some of the more old fashioned
in social. life regarded his mode nm in
novation and refused 10 acknowledge its
superiority.
The most marked difference consisted
in reforming the entrees and the wines,
etc, served with each. He 1t wa who,
in place OF the Sauterne or wine Of that
character, served with the raw oysters,
with which all dinners commenced, fur
nishcd n frozen punch called Arabian
punch. 1t was white and frozen to the
consistency of cream. Anamusing Incl
dent Of this innovation occurred at din
ner given by Marshal Hoover. Among
the guests was Col. Sam Stambaugh, Of
Pennsylvania, n very noted political
leader in that day and a friend Of Mr..
Buchanan.
Al AT PUNCH.
The colonel was late, and he arrived
after the guests had finished oysters and
punch, and were on the soup. He made
his apology and took his seat. His oys-
tiers and punch awaited him, and con
versing with his n%eighbor, he commenced
spreading the punch over his oysters.
1t was observed, of course, and the
gentleman next him said:-'Coloncl. ex-
cuse me, but that is punch"
Tho it isl" said the colonel; 81
thought Il was horse radish."
The table was in n roar, and the colo
mel, a recognized authority In such mat
ters, denounced this new style and
pleaded In favor of the old fashion. and
gave n dinner n fewe~ evenings after, which
was served In the old style. 1t made no
impression on the new style, however,
which continued TO DO the rage, ~incrcas-
ing in variety and expense. 9.
The colonels experience of tho new
order that evening did not end with the
punch. With the dessert was served
what was hen entirely ncw-biscuit
glaco in different 6olors and In paper
eases. He looked at tho one placed be
fore hin and said to his neighbor, in tones
of disgust audible TO tho whole table:
Shaving soap, by
Fashion, moro powerful than II op-
position, was on the side Of Gnutier &
Wormlcy, and tho old style gradually
was wiped out. The dinners Mt the ex-
ccutivc mansion were more lavish under
Mr.. Buchanan's administration. There
was q very perceptiblc change In mode
and oxpensivencss, and of course it pro
vailed in the private dinners.
Slideil and benjamin gavo expensive
dinners, and n of your representatives
at hat time, Gen. Sickles, occupied n
iinp Iattup nm I n raNaftn e.n,ara ar1 ,.,,.
most elaborate dinners and suppers. Ho
lived most extensively, entertained lib
orally, and from one of these dinners of
exceptional elegance, given on the Thurs-
day before the fatal r~encontre with Bar
ton Key, which occurred on Sunday, he
was csllcd to learn, as was testified TO at
tho trial, the particulars of the affair
which led to the killing of Key.
Senator William NJ. Gwin represented
California, and occupied the large man
sion on | street, near Nineteenth, where
his dinners and entertainments wcre no
table. Mrs. Gwin's fancy ball furnished
rs much talk and exhausted MS much
preparation, in tho costumes worn, rs
the great ball Of the Eandcrbilts n year
or two ago. 1t was n very fine affair.
GORGEOUS FOREIGN FETEs.
There was q good deal of tho swell
attributes in the entertainments of that
period which might be attributed to the
example set at the White House. There
were several distinguished foreign WIS.,
itors during the administration, and
they were entertained with lavish and
elegant hospitality, and the example of
the president Was followed.
The English minister Mt about that
time, Lord Napier, entertained fire.
quently and with great elegance. He
was popular beyond any of his prede-
%cessors, was very general In his invita-
tons, and mixed II good deal with the
people of Washington. attending stag"
parties, then prevalent In the club, CON
gressional n official life of Washing
ton. Before his return to England a ball
was given to him and Lady Napier by
senators and members of congress, OIL
cills and citizens, and q very handsome
affair it was.
The foreign legations have always ex-
ercised a very potent influence in Wash
mgton society. Naturally so, rs they
enjoyed n position that entitled them 10
every social attention. The influence of
wealth had, up to the close of Mr.. Folks
administration, made but little impress
sion. The old families who, with the
army and navy and officials, made up
tho social lifo of Washington, were aa
select rs McAllister's 400.
There was but little wealth among
them; competence and comfort were
about the standard reached ut that time.
A few years changed 1t all. The inroad
OF wealth drove out the old substantial
style, and the new regime brought now
modes and larger expenditures.
Each season newer styles; each season
moro expense and, of course, more elc-
gancc. The cost Of dinners and parties
swelled into thousands, where hundreds
were formerly expended Ehis Increase
OF entertainment and the general invita-
tons extended to official receptions
brought to the city n claas OF people,
male and female, who, without the So
clal recognition Mt their homes emitting
them 20 the entree, forced themselves
into every entertainment without invita-
ton and with no acquaintance with
those upon whose hospitality they in
That style of thing continues 10 this
day, and some efforts for protection
from these hordes is necded.-Cor. Now
York Telegram.
Blood VIII Tell.
Lady (as n blood curdling war whoor
Is heard from the kitchenHWhat {
hlnnpninr WultaraS