The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1889-09-22

River. Col, Sept. 10, lSS9.-ISpecial Cor
respondence of THE HERALD. Continuing
my notes Of our doings by the way must
first tell YOU that we are again in the canon
of the Grand river. Our little car is side
tracked in the very heart of its widest
scenery. and, save for the trains that pass
by from time to time, we are entirely alone
away from everybody, tits one thing to
receive your impressions of this canon
scenery from the swift passenger train,
and quite another to be here alone, at the
sunrise, the sunset,
TIE STILL, SOLEMN TWILIGHT,
and when the moon is rising, as it is doing
at this very moment, and lighting up one
side of the csflon so that the great walls
look ghostly in its cold rays, while the
other side is in deep, black obscurity. Bars
and other ''varmints" are quite numerous
in the ravines leading down into the canon,
and we have been wishing ever since arriy-
ing here to see a good-sized grizzly cat a
respectful distance, of cOurse) but all we
have seen as yet of animal life was poor,
little, harmless mink, running along the
margin of sand by the river; and, few
moments ago, we heard a faint, very
faint but dismal howl of a wolf up among
the hills.
Almost opposite to our home, as we call
the car now, there is broad, deep cleft IN
the mountain, which is known as the Dead
Horse Gulch,' not very euphOnlous
name. but one reminiscent of the early
DAYS. The cliffs on either hand are very
striking in appearance; they are of sedi-
mentary formation standing on founda-
ton of basalt, and are of great height.
You should see these cliffs to gather an
idea of how nature can build wall The
thickness Of the layers, or strata, averages
from six inches TO q foot, and they lie per
fectly horizontal. The effect of this wall
on the mind is peculiar We cannot get rid
of the idea that it has been done by some
race of men of primitive times and Of
Superhuman strength
While l think of it, Unjust tell you little
MORE ABOUT THE 'swEAT CAVE
down at the springs. Visitors to the place
enter into a large brick building at the foot
of a limestone mountain, and a corridor
from thence leads into the cave; stream
IF very hot water passes through this, and
soon the patient is bathed in a prOfuSe per
spiration. 1t is said to be an infallible cure
for neuralgia, rheumatism, etc, but the
curious part is its effect upon old. inVeter-
ate smokers. After remaining in the cave
for an hour or 50 d severe test, their per
SEPARATION is said to become tinged with a
brownish hue-the system throwing out
the deposits of perhaps the last ten or fif-
teen years smoking. You can take this
statement for what you think it is worth,
but my informant was really in earnest.
Another thing forgot to mention is the
fact that there are but few men at work at
the western terminus Of this ine-about
dozen Italians. While the Rio Grande
Western is doing an immense amount of
work, making heavy cuts, Strengthening
the track in many places and otherwise
making all ready for the hasty construction
of the broad gauge, this line seems to be
doing nothing. There remains but sixty
five miles of track to be made between
Rife Greek and Grand Junction, but at the
rate the work is going forward at present
its completion Is far distant
This morning we put in the. time taking
proceedings against cliff, which is the
highest in the canon. Its far-raised sum
NIT catches the first CLEAN OF morning
light, and it IS
The last to parley with the setting sur.
To this pile we have taken the liberty to
give the name Of the Temple. Very weird
il looks outside just now, and very lonely
The sound of the crickets' ceaseless triu
reminds OF home: but not that dull roar
that has just echoed through the cailon--a
rock detached from the cliffs and rolled
down into the river bed.
BELDEN, Eagle River, l2th-This after
noon we returned to the mining camp
mentioned before, and it looks not whit
the less interesting now that we have
chance to deliberately survey the place
1t is night now, and the twinkling lights of
THE MODERN CLIFF JEWELLERS,
far up on the tops of the cliffs, are a novel
spectacle. The camp is very prosperous:
one of the richest in the state We have
Of
from the principal mines, and they would
make the eyes of some of our cabinet col
lectors water. One was fine specimen of
bromide of silver, very valuable and rare:
the specimen white and pOwdery, almost
pure silver. This specimen was from the
POwderly mine, not thousand yards from
oar car. The Iron Mask mine is also one
that puts out some very rich ore, the most
valuable mine in the camp. The Tip-Top
is another. They are driving a tunnel into
the mountain for thousand feet to tap its
leading vein below its present exposure.
The blasting in this tunnel sounds every
once in a while through the camp.
Between the stations of Sloan and
Gypsum, the road passes through little
valley that, ! think, Profs. Marcus E.
Jones or Talmage would find especially in
teresting. 1t has been either under water.
or was once covered with ice; but since
that period the
PLUToNIAS FORCES HAVE BEEE ACTIVE,
and belched up huge mass of lava which
fills up one end of the valley This is the
meeting place of the Eagle and the Grand
rivers From there on we had glimpses of
the Mount of the Holy CrOss-sharp yet
dim. above dense groves of pine. and foot
hills yellow with autumnal tinted foliage
LEADvILLE. l3th-Well, we have Just re
crossed the Tennessee Pass, and superb
view burst upon our sight at its summit.
Last night it rained heavily in the valleys.
but snow fell upon the mountain tops. The
great ranges to the west of Leadville were
white with their newly-fallen mantles for
1000 feet down their sides, all illuminated
by the setting sun. Leadville, perched
upon its hillside, was a sight long to be re
membered- glittering with electric lights.
and overhung by volumes of smoke from
the smelters on every hand, smelters that
are said to dispose of, ON an average, 500
tons of ore daily.
Just before reaching Leadville, we passed
its cemetery, a pretty place among
growth Of young pine trees It's older part
is filed with the graves of many a man who
died with his boots on, either by pistol shot
or, in the old slang phrase, performing a
telegraph pole jig. Tomorrow, fresh
field and pasture new.
SIDE TRACK, near Twin Lakes, 18th
This morning it was raining heavily, but
soon cleared off, and in a short time we
VIZ bowling across Cache Greek park to-
ward the lakes. The distance is nine miles,
but is so attractive that it seems no more
than five. Mountain lake scenery is Of
e;,,oilo,. ohofaptar from, +bo