Los Angeles daily herald., 1889-08-05
FASHION NOTES.
The New DEGREES OF American So.
ciety Queens.

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wear in place of the plain white liner
has met with general favor.
The plain white handkerchief is the
proper thing now. Many beauties are
found, edged with Spanish drawn work
or trimmed with lace, but not emorold
cred, as this is too common to be 'rea
elegant"
Gloves of every color, kind and des
cription are worn, but thin, dressed kic
gloves are more stylish at present thar
the suede glove. Fashion has alsC
decreed that gloves should not be worr
above the elbow, even when the sleeve
is short.
Red in all manner of fabrics is the
color most chosen for the country thii
year. The plain color is seldom seen
but all kinds of combinations help tt
soften what might otherwise prove toe
elaring. Stockings OF red are worn witt
these toilets, or else match the shoes o.
black or tan ooze leather.
Most charming, youthful dancing
gowns are made ofsoft, creepy gauzes with
high, puffed sleeves, empire sashes, and
straight skirts. Primrose yellow mauve,
violet, pale green, and pure white are
Hi AppTOpIldl6 CUlOiSs OiCaLIy iaSo oNOi
foundations of any of these hues makes
an immensely fetching toilet.
In her latest play, "The Partisan Art-
ist," Bernhardt wears gown with a
novel front drapery. These fronts are
tied with silk cord the thickness of ordi-
nary twine, and at each corner of the dia-
mond shape thus formed is a silk ball.
This network is in. V-shape and edged
with deep silk fringe. On the hips,
where the slope of the V shortens the
uppt p ut OF the front, the fringe is fully
a yard in depth, while at the sharp point
it is but nine inches.
The summer hat is low-crowned,
broad -brimmed and trimmed with pro-
fusion of flowers. Years have elapsed
since flowers took the lead as they do
this season. Lace hats are made to
match the costumes, the lace falling over
thin, delicate flowers. Theatre and re-
ception bonnets are made entirely Of
flowers, with strings of marrow ribbon
velvet, which should be tied ON the left
side under the chin-if tied directly
under the chin, it gives one an older
appearance.
The silk handbag which now finds so
much favor has had its sway, and in its
place comes the suede, which hangs from
the belt and promises to supersede the
satchel. Some can be bought tor a few
dollars, while others are sold from So to
$50. The dealers of these goods are each
trying to outGo the other, and some of
these hanging bags are work of art in
themselves. The trimmings are of oxi-
dized silver and sterling silver. Even
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expensive.
Our famous merchants say everything
to lsdy's toilette should be silk, accord
ing to the present decree of fashion.
Black silk undergarments and even
sheets and pillow-cases have long been
used, but they are too somber to meet
with universal favor. The enterprising
manufacturers made some of red, pink,
blue, yellow and other delicate tints.
Petticoats. chemisettes, stockings, col
lars and cuffs, and other articles in a
fashionable woman's wardrobe, are now
made of colored silk.
Empire dresses seem destined to a
speedy grave; women, especially Ameri-
can women, dislike dresses which hide
their figures, if they have good ones
which they have generally. Dressmak-
ers tell us long waists are again the
fashion, but the hustle, poor hustle, is
quite dead. Wash dresses are now al
lowed for afternoon dinners and calls.
Some of the sateens are 80 like China
silks that one cannot tell the difference
without feeling the fabric. A novelty in
wash goods is the revival of the old
fashioned batiste. Some suits are lovely.
Women who like to work trimmings
for their gowns will find the following
method an easy one: Any simple calico
that has geometrical designs stamped on
braid of cotton or wool may be basted
along the lines of the pattern and lace
stitch be worked in between. When the
openings between the lines are all filed
up the braid may be ripped from the
foundation, which can be used more
than once. These make pretty trim
ming bands for gingham, zephyr cloth,
or cotton gowns OF any description.
There is no magazine OF it's kind before
the reading world to-day which has
more merit as literary and art journal
than Dress. The subject of dress is re-
ceiving new Interpretation under its
aesthetic analysis, and the articles on
physical culture are very superior in their
manner of handling the subject. No
woman, especially young woman, who
cares for physical beauty, can afford tc
neglect reading them. The number for
July-August has articles on "Physical
Culture" +" "The Old and New in Mental
Attire" How to Promote Sociability, ,
and complete fashion article by the
well.known fashion authority, Herman,
Some of the richest women are the
least extravsgant in their clothes, as is
the case, for example, with old Mrs.
w. 81. Vanderbilt, who does not spend
above 81 900 year, and the late Mrs.
Gould not 80 much. Nelly Gould, who
will inherit SIS ,000, 900 or 10000 900,
and already has an income of $4,000 a
year, spends about $2 800 in dress. The
late Mrs. A. T. Stewart was fortune to
the dressmakers, who put away $8, 900 or
10000 year on her furbelows. When
che died and an inventory of her effects
was taken her great white mausoleum Of
house on Fifth avenue was found to be
overrun with the most marvellous
amount of clothes, laces, furs,
bonnets and jewels, most of them
very youthful in appearance,
though she was over 20 years of age.
Mrs. Astor dresses with solemn, hand
some expensiveness at the cost of $4,000
or So 900 year, and all of the younger
Vanderbilt women spend a great deal OF
money on their clothes. Mrs. George
Gould, who was Edith Kingdom, the
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