The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-06-05
THE BUSTLES ARE GOING.
DAME FASHIONS voTARIgs SUBMIT.
Tightly CIingIng Draperies VIII Cover the
Feminine Form-Secrets Of the Toilet
White Materials Paras0ds-Under-
wear-A June Brides Costume.

ers, grasped her La Tosca," and set out
on her annual pilgrimage. The unwieldy
| k-breaking protuberance termed hustle,
endured by women so long, had been de-
molished by one blow from the hand Of
the Prussian modiste, who, with charac-
teristic vigor, flies to the opposite extreme
to remedy an existing evil in dress when
once its enormity is revealed. The En-
glish modiste, less radical in her ideas, in.
sists upon the addition of the sash for its
rounding effect on square-hipped figure
and the agreeable tullness it lends to a
! slight one.
One small steel placed twelve inches
from the waist line is allowable in street
| gowns, but for house and evening wear
| the long, natural lines must be preserved
the closer and more clingirg the draper
les the better. For stout figures the skirt
may be corded and faced at the top in or
der to do away with the band. Then leg
lettes of black silk worn beneath the COR
sets and replacing any other garment ex-
! cept the tight-fitting underwear will re-
| duce the circumference materially and OBJ
viate the necessity for resort to anti-fat
methods.
The reign of the leglette has set in in
earnest, many fashionable women discard
ing the skirt altogether in its favor. Il
| certainly is a cool, convenient article to
| find in ones summer wardrobe, while.
made of appropriate material, it performs
I quite as useful duty during the cold sea-
| son. Black surah leglettes may accom-
| panv almost any dark summer gown and
the proper length brings them just to the
ankles. A plain hem headed by cluster
| of five tucks is a neat finish. Those made
of pongee silk will do nicely for wear with
| light street dresses, and for evening under
white or any light costume. muslin, dainty
cambria, or thin white washing silk is the
| correct thing. the white ones may be
| trimmed with fine embroideries or fluffy
/ laces, as the taste OF the wearer may elect.
There is a GOODNESS and lightness about
| this style OF undertaking tnat is beyond
question, while the savingin laundry bills
| by reason of the reduction in point of
numbers is fact that the thrifty sojourner
| at expensive out-of-town resorts might
well bear in mind.
| Dress skirts may have, lengthwise
| plaits either OF the box variety or in kilt
/ form. Fears were entertained early in the
! season that, as certain local dry-gOods
house advertised Teady-made accordion
! plated skirts at a moderate price, the
days of that graceful waving style were
numbered. But it is too pretty and be-
coming a style to have such brief life.
| Summer gowns, especially lace ones, will
show good deal OF this plating in their
makeup, and in light silks it will divide
the Donors with finely stitched lengthwise
tucks. These tucks will appear quite as
often in the bodice portion itself. its loose
vest, and sleeves as in the skirt. The
| fohf Of no -r,lo cl- - -
against it, so far as heavy materials are
, concerned, but this cannot be urged when
lace or muslin is in question. A stylish
underskirt in this fashion shows two
fiounces OF black lace, accordion plated,
the upper one being fastened in with the
| waist-band.
White, the livery of last summer, will
be fashionably worn and universally
adopted the difference in materials only
marking the line between youth and ma
| turity.
The array of white materials seems so
vast that one may well credit the tale told
of New York belle who is said TO have
no less than fifty white gowns in her sum-
mer campaign wardrobe. Besides the
well-known and long-tried cotton and
linen stuffs the list is reinforced this year
by white wool fabrics of sheer, delicate
qualities and fine, closely woven serges
that will bear any amount of rough usage
and wash like a pocket-handkerchief.
These arr not confined to the plain sur
face, but there are lowered, barred,
striped, and figured patterns in all whites,
others showing threads of gold or silver
tinsel or border in oriental colors that
are exceedingly rich and novel.
The heavier qualities will be used for
! day gowns, in round full skirts or direc-
toire basques with wide sashes.
Ribbons in generous rosette form or
| long floating loops and pearl beaded orna-
| ments are the proper garniture. If made
after Grecian models long loose sleeves
and draperies of pearl-dotted silk net must
enter into their construction.
Beautiful pliable corded silks are being
made up in princesse shape by French
| dressmakers. On these the neclzs are cut
| low to exaggeration, the deficiency being
supplied by crepe lisse or silk-wrought
tulle, held high about the throat by
wide dog-collar made of pearl or opal
beads. A girdle of the same falls low at
one side of the waist Some of the cor
sages are devoid of sleeves, deftly-draped
| fichu of costly lace half concealing the
shoulders and dropping its rich meShes
| halfway to the elbow of the wearer.
Next in rank to the white toilets will
come the evening gowns of pompadour
| silks, made with short gathered sleeves
and coquettish love-knots of ribbon at the
shoulder and belt Others have trimmings
of crepe lisse, shoulder pieces. and peplum
sashes of gauzy crepes, with deep fringes
of silk thread as a finish. Most OF the
round bodices to accompany evening
dresses have the under-arm seam cut bias,
| the material being fitted over the bust
with a single deep dart. Surplice folds
are a pretty addition to these round waists,
and they may be extended into high
arched pufs above the shoulders.
A word about parasols. Many this sea-
son are indescribably ugly, particularly
the shape that arches suddenly between
, sticks, throwing the latter into the most
undue prominence. These always leave
the impression that the covering has
fallen short or the manufacturer has neg
lected to add possible lace frill. This is
an extreme style, of course, and will only
find adherents among those of loud tastes.
The purchaser of one OF these would prob
ably covet the big, gaudy, plaid affairs that
will startle the nomads in rural districts
and by the sea-shore during the hot sea.
son.
Parasols with alternating panels of vel
vet and silk are French caprice that will
not be extensively copied here. Simple
parasols of heavy silk, with family tinted
Innings, are happily at the command of ali
and medium length handle, with a huge
hour 0f aov1aI rihhDv - ba narroct olnsoa