The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-03-08
COURT BODICES.
Some May be Worn High at the
Coming Drawing Room.


Coming Drawing Room.
From the London Daily Telegraph.
| 1t is no doubt matter for CO graduation
| to some of those ladies whose loyal duty
will take them to court this month that
| they may wear high bodies. For those,
however, who, on reading the official an
nouncement from the lord cham berlain's
| office, considered that for the future those
| were to be the regula ion bodices for court
| costume great dl appointment, or an
| equal relief, is in store, for the news was
somewhat variously received. In no way
! is the new bodice to take the place
of the old one. Her majesty's
permission will be as neces-
sary now as formerly to alter that regula-
| ton of her court so long and so exactlngly
maintained The difference will be that
| those who obtain this leave will be as uni
| formly tired as their court-going sisters.
| There will be no doubt about how far the
| highness of the bodice or length of the
sleeves NAV go without mourning royal dis
| pleasure. The matter is settled, and that
| small portion of the neck is to be visible
aud the sleeve to reach nearly to the elbow
| is now happily beyond dispute. Further, IL
| will be no longer absolutely incumbent on
| those who fer the consequences of low
| bodices at this bleak time of the year to OBJ
| tain doctors certificate before making ap-
| plication to wear high one
| A request to the lord chamberlain will be
| deemed sufficient at all events for the
| earliest courts. Whether the same rule will
| be extended to the May drawing-rooms is
| not yet known. AS all those who are
| would-De reformerS in court costume are
| we'll aware, no plea less than that of the
health of her subjects would have weight
| with her majesty in the matter of change
| in tdis respect Whatever frolics tickle
| shion may indulge in for the outside
world, her sway in the court circle is linn
| tied indeed. Though we'll dressed ladies to-
| ia consider harmony of color TO be a
| necessity OF properly considered costume,
| and that all things must match, the quee
| mas never allowed the immaculate white
| ness of veil, plume and gloves to be
taInpersd with by those whom she re-
ceives at her drawing rooms The question
| is a vexed one. as white is not always be-
| coming in broad daylight, and the effect
with delicate-toned gowns is unfortunately
| to make them look soiled. These, however,
are minor considerations, at once waved
aside hen suggested to the queen. The
| subject of health, on the other hand, was
| serious, and with the utmost care for it
| have the new bodices been designed. The
susceptible part of the arms. the shoulders
| and the chest are all properly pro ectsd.
| and by means of liSse and lace dressy ap
| pearance may be impaired. 1t cannol be
| pretended that these are half as smart as
| the low bodice, and very rightly it has been
| surmised that, should the wearing of high
bodices become general, as was hoped and
| feared, our English court would be Shorn of
much of its magnlficence.
After ALL when lady attends balls and
even less festive functi ms, there are to be
| seen twenty low bodces for one high one,
| and here there is no compelli e regulation.
| The night air has to be encountered, and
| frequently a long wait ere setting down is
| possible. On drawing room days the inside
| of a well-built brougham is not such an I'M
| comfortable place as might be imposed.
| The air is heated with hot water foot warm
| ers, draught is excluded by competent car
riage builders, and ventilation secured by
| opening an inch or two of one win
| dow. Once in the palace and within hail of
The barriers cold is not the element to be
complained of. A grievance about court
| dress, based on any solid foundation, is no
onger, however, possible. Her majesty
has most graciously )nseated to the high
bodice, with permission and has at the
same time brought these bodlces under he
own fixed control, so that bizarre effects
will no longer offend tue eye during the
| progress of the royal ceremony of recep-
| ton.
How particular the queen is in such mat
ters of detail as gloves, for example, was
realized by lady of no less exalted rank
than a duchess, who wore gloves in a deep
shade of tan to match her dress and was
obliged to send from the palace itself for
white pair. Of the two bodices approved"
the demi-toilette is the prettier That seen
by the queen is of silver-gray poplin, with
folded fchu of lace and open hea T.
shaped. The other is of bronzegreen velvet,
| the lace rutfies being a pretty cream
color. The vest, or stomacher, is of
gathered cream-colored satin, studded with
pearls. Minor matters, such as trimming,
are subject to alteration. 1t is simply the
regulations that the collar is high at the
back, and yet close in, and not very high,
like the Medici collar; the sleeves also close
and to the elbow, and the opening in front
very small, that are fixed and unalterable.
IL is, therefore, not impossible TO wear a
bodice which covers a neck and shoulders
not quite as shapely might be, and
yet show a pair of faultess arms.
It Is case of ell or none, and
the mere matter Of becomi lgness is
no more considered than ia the uniform
| of regiment. Homemade bod
| ices will be more difficult of attainment
than ever if permission is sought and &C
! Quired for high ones to be worn. The diff
Guilty ia fitting is encountered with the
| sleeves and shoulders, SO that maids wno
| have to fit out delicate mistresses for early
| year drawing rooms will have to consider
| these details and possibly study scientific
sleeve cutting, as they are not equal TO such
| complicated business by ordinary methods.
For the coming court very few high bodi-
ces are so far ordered. and it is quite likely
that the new regulation will make little no