New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-11-03
NEW FASHIONS.
PRETTY GOWNS FOR AUTUMN AND WINTER

|
decked brocades, the gazes and broidered tissues Of
the seventeenth century still furnish the motif Of
fashion. The tendency Of the season is 10 greater
simplicity Of style in the cut and make of gowns and
wraps and this severity Of style even extends to mil
hnery. Everywhere attention Is paid than in
any previous season to the grouping OF harmonious
colors and to the artistic and graceful Of rich
fabrics Less metal is used in street dress and for
general occasions. but Of the most beautiful
brocades for trained evening dresses composed Of
threeinch alternate stripes of white satin and some
delicate tint like veuxrose. pale reed green or light
delicate lilac I'm silk, with a pattern Of some
conventional style brocaded them In silver
Wide stripes Powered with grasses, field daisies and
leaves two stripes covering the width Of the sikh are
shown in silver and white on white satin for bridal
gowns and for evening gowns in place OF the white
| and gold Of previous seasons
Od-fashioned boiled tafeta silks IN white and deli
cate evening colors striped at intervals with fine
double lines of satin lowered with clusters Of rose
buds tied with floating blue ribbon. Delicate-hued
evening satns are also brocaded in solid color IN
simple fsh-scale pattern and strcwn with the tniest
rosebuds IN natural colors while still other sans are
similarly brocadcd in sefcoor with ferncusters and
in colors that recall the flower painting OF Watteau
These Powered brOcades are imported for short
Josephine bodces to be for dancing. with full
skirt Of striped delicatey figured chfogue This
the gauze OF the season, which in all evening
/
the flower patterns which are known among merchants
as pOmpadOur brOcades"
Full skirts Of colored tlle- also used with cor
sages Of plain brocaded satin and these corsages
trimmed with a network Of gold silver passe-
menterie placed across the shoulder and as metal
girdle al the waist. In some grde OF metal
network comes from the at the left side aud
crosses the cosage diagonay in manner familiar
in old portraits of the day of David. The wide
golden gir1les and softly draped rather than fitted
| corsage of that period are copied almost literally
for evening dresses at present, though modified IN
details as the changes in taste Of the present day
would die tate.
Trimming at present centres IN the coTage for
either house or street gown. The alaround basque
has almost disappeared except for tailor dresses OF
cloth. In many dresses with basques the effect OF
a princess gown Is given by looping the skirt over
the edge Of the basque at the back, and concealins
the edge at the sides and the front by a gfrdle or
drapery Of some kind Louis XIV coats are being
made, however, for corsage with costumes OF cloth
and velvet for the and part Of dresses of
brocade and velvet for state occasions. These coats
have the back lengthened the back Of tbs
skirt large square pocket pieces covering the hips
The vest Of the coat is quite short, reaching but
few inches below the waist line.
The tendency for some time past to conceal the
darts by drapery is more than ever feature or
bodices. In some matinee gowns the shoulder seam
| Is
seam that they appear to flow from the throat
band In Louis XIV coats the seams at the darts
and elsewhere are visible, except where the wide
that edge the vest them. A handsome
dress Of dahla-colored cloth, rich new plum shade.
was recently made. The front and back Of the skirt
plain velvet The long princess overdress was
Hat the sides and embroidered mp either edge of
The front with wide bands in which black asrakhan
introduced. vest effect of velvet and en-
broldery part Of the waist; and triple capes OF
cloth, each edged with embroidery and a narrow
border Of astrakhan, added for wrap when the
dress worn on the street. All sleeves remain
an ornamental adjunct to the corsage. great many
fun velvet sleeves being made up for particularly
nice gowns even where no velvet IS introduced in
The skirts and only little in the of the corsagc
The high, full sleeve is the favorte sleeve for
street dress The effect Of the short Russian jacket
over full blouse is given in many evening bodices
| which fitted to the figure at the back hand
| some princess gown Of brown cloth was recently
| shown combined with a brOcaded silk striped in a
wavy zigzag pattern The overdross shortened
in front to display the entire front Of The plain skirt
| Of brocade and extended over the back IN two
narrow, straight breadths, which pleated in at
the back in three hollow box peats This combina;
is a feature of rich street and carriage dresses.
Black silk costumes are preferably OF oroeade In
house and reception wear Black satin brocaded with tiny
flower sprays IN color is also worn handsome black
]
skirt, figured with tiny yellow primoses at Intervals
Vide rvers of primrose yellow SILK, yelled by black
lace extended up either side of the 'front.' The bodice
was round waist made IN front Of yellow silk yelled
with fun black lace, over which was jacket effect
Of the brocade and the back Of the bodice of brocade
was fitted smoothly to tho figure.
made ' with straight, full ' skirt, the sole
ornament being small pointed apron, composed Of
Louis Ky coat shape, IS finished at the sides with
square pocket pieces of similar jet strands, and
Matinee gowns never more beautiful than
now. India silk and soft surahs in iewellike colors
shows a blending of many colors and CLINT OF metal
such a, only Oriental worker can give. The shape,
flowing though these dresses usually fitted UNI
derneath in order that they may SET gracefully.
loose robe falling from round YOKE with cufs
collar and square pieces the bacs, of nOss-grcen
velvet \ charming Grecian jacket for hous-wear
with matinee skirts Is Of cleamwh WoQuen Grape
less jacket OF lilac cashmere Is worn TINS Is EN-
brOdered the edge in square ScalOps LIKE Grecan
up for house wear, with ful undersleeves of white
wool Grape flowing from the short cOatsleeVe, and
full blouse vest hen do"n oy glrles 10 Dc ,isi oNc'
the vest at the waist These end III points OF PAST
mcntcrc reproducing the flower and leaf cooS in the
blocade. handsome honse-sacque OF coraEpihk
surah is finished with ruiie OF surah. WIN deep
yandyke points of black lace let IN On the edge
The body Of this jacket Is SHRED on to yoke. fin,
shed the lower edge with points Of black lace, and
made with a collar similarly trimmed. Fine japanese
coats OF quilted silks again imported for toiles
wear They are fitted rather closer to the figure
than formerly.
There are signs Of the revival OF fine handmade
laces All varieties Of effective bold patterns Of linen
lace used In the popular Nandyke points Point de
Gene heavy and effective, but oom-lsce. I. prob
ably as much used as any OTHER. The wide Puritan
collars and cuffs worn by a children few years ago
are again revived and arr shown IN graceful sham
rock and other patterns in crochet from converts IN
Ireland Russian lace, the handsome haXcoored lace
In vogue several years ago, and imported a. IFS name
indicates from Russia J, again shown in fine pat
terms old fashioned Cluny lace Is used in Vandykc
points for childrcn's collars.
Large Marie Autoneite hchus Of silk game finished
with simple hCmmed ruiles the edge without
heading are graceful and becoming addition to
dark house toilet They Shown IN delicate cOlOrs
and I'm black There also Hchus of white and
colortd nets in a variety OF shades. a novelty IN
collareces Is of dark royal blue, black some dark
velvet falls I'm three points at the back and In points
in front and Is finished with collar and border Of
Point de Gene lace.
Thanks are due Arnold Constable & Co.. Lord &
TAYLOR and Stern Brothers.