Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1889-12-31
STYLES FOR WINTER.
Changes and Notifications From Popula
Autumn Fashions.

Autumn Fashions.
The Directoire styles have served a
good purpose in introducing the long
princesse coats and the modest princesse
dresses which will prevail during the
coming winter. The Empire styles re-
main in favor, their classic designs
being copied literally for evening
gowns, while their folded bodices, made
without visible darts or side forms in
the back. are used in various WAYS for
day dresses, often having the skirt
sewed to them permanently, making a
dress in one piece, as convenient and as
easily put on and of as the more simply
shaped princesse dresses. Basque
bodices have of late been left almost
entirely to tailor gowns, but Worth has
never entirely abandoned them, and he
now makes basque backs slashed in
square tabs to complete his medieval
corsages, with cuirass front and slashed
sleeves. A broad back is q new effect
seen on many gowns, given by coat-liks
forms of even length below the waist,
with the tab finish just mentioned, or
else by round waists with fullness from
the neck and shoulders down to the
waist line, dispensing with all seams
that might make tapering effect, hav-
ing only the under-arm seams that are
absolutely necessary. The fronts Of
waists are as fully draped as they have
been of late, and in many very elegant
dresses are round, while the back is
pointed. The collar is high for street
gowns, but lower, and either round or
pointed, for house dresses. Sleeves are
also varied according to the different
gowns, those for the street being only
large-topped coat sleeves, or the ampler
mutton-leg sleeves, while for the house
they are the fullest bishops sleeves, as
full below the elbows as at the arm
holes, or else they are full over-sleeves,
falling open to show an under-sleeve,
which is plain or in full puffs, according
to the material of which it is made. We
must also melton the coat sleeve with
simple round Empire puff at the tops and
row after row of velvet ribbon or Of
passementerie passing around the sleeve
below. fashion that makes long arms
look shorter and thin arms fuller.
Foundation skirts are not changed in
shape, and the skirts of street gowns
retain their straightness in plaits all
around, or else they have smooth scant
fronts with slight upward curves
from hip to hip, and the mass of fullness
gathered at the back. In some OF the
long coats or over-dresses tendency
toward fullness or slight drapery is seen
by cutting off the back forms in corset
shape, and sewing on the full skirt,
sometimes with a slight jabot effect;
still others have a point or two points In
the middle forms coming over the skirt
fullness, but the greater number retain
the continuous princesse breadths, with
additional fullness plated in the seams
What was long ago called the Mar
guerite polonatse back, with its fullness
draped under two bows on the seams be-
two4n the middle forms and the side
forms, is seen again in both gowns and
coats; and. indeed. almost any arrange
ment is permissible for the back OF
gowns, provided it does not make the
fullness project in shelving tournure'
-Harper's Bazaar.