The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-01-27


child to sit upon it and be carried about
the room. Sometimes il stuck out half or
three-quarters of yard Sometimes it was
made Of hair and sometimes Of cotton bat
ting. 1t was in the shape of an enormous
roll and careful women hung curtain of
balance upon it so that the gown should not
drop in too suddenly below. The negro
girls who couldn't Buy stoTe-made Journeys
used to tie on pillows and go out walking
with those APPENDICES. The newspapers
fought it just as they do now. Once, l re-
member, the elder Booth came to Town and
was lied on all the dead walls in his
"Richard ILL., costume. Some wit
got out extra posters with line from
the play, 'Bustle! Bustlei caparison
my horsep proceeding from Richards
mouth
q suppose you don't remember the crino-
linel There was an immodest fashion for
you. Eugene invented it, and if American
women would only follow Mrs. Cleveland
as readily in a sensible fashion as the
French did their empress in nonsensical
one the hustle would be banished. But we
have no fashion leader. If the Princess of
Wales were to lay aside her hustle there
would be an end of it."
you don't think Mrs. Cleveland's exam
pie has counted for much, then?'
For nothing at all If women give up
the hustle it will be because they want a
change"
81 told you so, said Annie Jenness Mil
Ter.
There's a phrase which nobody likes to
have flung in her face, but there's certain
satisfaction in reminding people that your
prophecy has proved correct.
when first advocated the adjustment
of the hustle and re urn to the easy, COM
Portable style of an earlier period, the fash
ionables laughed the idea to scorn.
har Al
Portable sleeves l insisted upon having
called forth protest from my dressmaker
who had Just returned from Paris whore
sleeves were worn skin-tight; and when /
said no hustle she fairly gasped l was in
formed that | should look like Il guy, and
that no woman in her senses would ever
follow that STYLE. Nevertheless the easy
flowing lines of soft full cuffs coming out
below the elbow coat sleeves, of Fedora
front to the jacket and no hustle beneath
the drapery are the latest and most APP
proved French styles. Paris and Berlin offer
to-day as chic novelties just what | urged
three years ago for reasons OF comfort and
personal grace.
"And now the hustle must go. l said so
and nobody believed it The newspapers
are CRYING out that our lady of the white
house has pronounced against the hustle,
but nearly two years ago | was at one OF
this same lady's private receptions at the
white house without any hustle and she
never once asked me if | was not remiss in
my court etiquette.
Moral, do not imagine that the world
stands still because you cannot see it
move.n
How far a woman would travel to get
rid of hustle if 1t were a natural instead of
an artificial deformity."
Lille Devereux Blake writes me little
note apropos of hustle:
II have always disliked the hustle" says
the woman suffrage leader, considering it
both unsightly and uncomfortable Not
wishing to be peculiar in appearance, so
long as fashion required it, | wore light
stees in my skirts. | am heartily glad that
the monsTous thing is going out Of style.
If we can wear natural waists and no bus
ties we shall have dress reform that will
greatly increase the health and beauty of
our women"
Mrs. Wilcox rejects the alternative of
Cleveland or Harrison style.
II discarded the hustle before Mrs. Cleve-
land, she says.
So you did, Ella Wheeler, You were one
of the pioneers of empire dress in New York
and you have worn consistently the short
waists and graceful clinging skirts which
20 with your Pysche knot and piquaut
countenance You were at home the other
morning in a pretty white neghgee that
would have shrunk from the thought of
hustle, and you were at a first night not
many evenings since in a picturesque con-
coction of the First Empire all in mignOn-
cite gray. People wouldn't know you with
a hustle The two ideas don't agree.
And now it is time to hear from the dress
maker. There is a mOdiste who used to
dress Mrs. James Brown Potter when that
lady was the best gowned and handsomest
woman in New York. Sometimes | chat a
5g a Tot
on the tournure:
Beautiful green velvet, isn'tit 1t took
three months 10 get the gold thread en-
broidery DONE It's going t. Mrs. CrOcker,
the rich Croker, in San Francisco. She
always orders her gowns from New York.
The hustle gOlngl Nonsense; not AT all.
The movement against it was so bitter it
defeated its own ends. A wholly fiat dress
at the back is just as ludicrous, inartlstlc
and unbecoming as the insane-loOking pr
tuberances women wore last season. No
gown is rich enough or elegant enough to
look its best without some slight distinc-
ton behind. Remove all bOuffancy and the
style of the daintiest toilet is lowered or de-
stroyed The hustle of normal size, grace
full, becoming, will live for years.
Belva Lockwood lectured in Brooklyn the
other evening.
mot in the least disappointed about the
election!n
There are better times ahead. The wom-
ans day will dawn
And will you take sides on the hustle
issueW
Against the hustle, thank you"
''You don't admire the dress improverp
"DresS distorter is a better name. 1t
grows small by degrees and beautifully
less and l rejoice in its vanishing
when you are inauguarated there will
be NJ busties at the inaugural ballY'
"Not if this court knows itself; | beg
pardon, If the etiquette of the rspub-
lican court has any control Of such ques-
tionsn
And the actresses. The stage is a fac
tor in fashions too important to be neg
lected.
Mrs. Brown Potter, as everybody knows,
discarded the hustle long since with loath-
ing. Cleopatra with a tournure! The 1.-the
lirnbed Cora of the gauzy skirts would Like
TO see herself bumped like a camel She
would indeed Get thee from behind me
Satan" And the hustle rolled rejected
on the floor. Look here, feelm cried the
actress to a friend 10 whom she was display
ing heap Of pretty gowns the other day.
If you can find dress pad or a spring or a
steel tucked away in any one Of them / will
give you the whole wardrobe. Flati OF
course they're fiat Aren't we born SOL
No, not quite fiat. The back, if one has a
good backn-Mrs. Potter knows that hers is
not to be spoken Of ightingly-"has a
lovely contour, and it's that one wants
l. 30 I,gy1ay not an artiGfsiaI baot Of cotton