Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1889-09-26
tn q FAsHIONs.
scotch Plaids and Tailor GOWNS
HACK Dresses for Autumn.

SCOtCh RlAtub 6nu IdkiOF GOWNs-
BLACK Dresses for Autumn
| lIarper's Bazaar.
Large plaids in fancy oolors and III
many of the genuine clan tartaus are i'm
ported in thick (yet Light soft wool
goods for autumn and winter dresses.
These supple Scotch stuffs are very wide,
and but seven yards will be required for
dress with pleated skirt and habit
waist. Mohair will be used for tho four
dstlon skirt. Double-breasted basques
and Norfolk jackets will be revived for
some Of these dresses, while others will
have shirtwaists OF plain wool under
| jackets Of the plaid, fitted in the back,
but straight and loose in 'front.'. Stitched
sdges and metal buttons will give them
neat finch. For very slight figures the
long, well-draped overskirt will be used
| for plaid gowns, falling straight in plests
behind and in front, but taken up slightly
on each side to give glimpses Of skirt
beneath, which is only baud or pleating
OF the plaid set on foundation skirt.
Faced cloths for next seasons tailor
gowns will be trimmed with fur bands
and with much braiding set on the foot
of the skirt in upturned points, or in one
or two much larger points, called Tour
EifTel designs, because they are broad ct
the base and grow slender at the top,
which reaches more than halfway up the
skirt this trimming is directly in front,
or it may be on both sides OF the skirt.
On the waist the braiding comes from
the sides, beginning Just under the arms,
or it Stimulates round yoke, or is in
Vandyck points from the collar down,
with also girdle. The styles for tailor
gowns remain very simple, having their
| skofsa - . he "a
the cloth. MEDIEVAL designs will be
used again for cloth dresses, the skirt
being straight and lifted slightly on the
left side in large chstelsins pleat which
diseloses a lower skirt. The dresses
worn by Marguerite in Faust" will be
copied almost literally in faced cloths,
the pocket or bag being made of velvet
of darker shade than the cloth. TIE
new shade Of terra Gotta called Eiffel,
prune and petunia shades, the dark
mahogany tint rechristened Buffalo,
nickel or blue grass, the Russian greens
and the new gold browns will be chosen
for stylish cloth dresses. Black and
brown furs, especially sable, Astrskhan
and mink, will form borders and bindings
for Trimming.
Cancels hair, China Grape, faille and
ermure are the materials being made up
in handsome black dresses for autumn,
while mohair is for useful and plain
gowns. Cancels hair has its special
trimming of deep scallops embroidered
On its edges and an addition OF fisa-net
on which other embroidered scallops are
placed in rows; this trims the front of
the skirt, edges the Tapped fronts of the
corsage and almost entirely forms the
small mantle for the street. Other black
wool dresses will be effectively trimmed
with the new Escurisl .passementesie, an
open cord trimming In VAndyck points,
which comes in many colors, but alwayG
with black for its foundations; perhaps Il
has but one color added, or perhaps 1t has
several in Oriental coloring, or il may be
the Spanish red and yellow with black,
or Russian green OF several shades, but
the black foundation remains. Black
India cashmere and cSepe de Chine
dresses are made with entire deux, or in
sertions of Ohantilly lace around the
skirt and corsage trimming OF jet beads
in points, to which either gold or steel
beads are added. Black armure silk ind
faille franchise or bengaline will he
frightened by cashmere. colored VGu-
dycks and drop trimmings Of beads aud
cords, or by branching designs OF leaves
with gold or silver beads in the middle,
outlined by fine jet beads.
A novelty among long wraps, called
the Ursuline cloak, is a conventional
garment similar TO those worn by nuns.
IL covers the wesror from throat TO foot,
has hood and nuns sleeves, and cord
as thick as rope, like friar's girdle,
tied around the waist. II is made OF
thick, soft, cancels hair cloth in dark
csrmelite brown shades, and ia lined
with thick silk; the glrdls ia wool cord,
and the garment is entirely without trim-
ming. Other long oloaks are of brochs
cloth, figured all over, or OF the new boz
dsred cloths with broad stripes at tina
foot or with corner pieces In stripes down
tbs front and across the foot, while still
+ others are Of the soutache cloth woven to
3 represent braiding in ali-over designs.
i Shoulder capes of cloth, with an upper
cape almost as full as rut1le, will be
J worn in the intermediate season before
? heavy wraps are required. They are
) made of tan, green, gray or white cloths,
3 and are even all around, and just toe
5 short to conceal tine tspering slender
. waist, OF else they are pointed slightly III
front or shaped there in long mantiila
ends. Fur shoulder oapeS will also BIT
worn in early autumn days.
: Bead necklaces are the fashion Of the
( moment in Paris. Large round gold
: beads in single strand, or else fiae cut
9 coral beads in several strands, linkeo TO-
gether in the old-fashioned way, are worr
high around the neck, with the low,
|: thFoated dresses that are now in vogue
! BandesuL of gilt beads are placed il
q black lace bonnsts for the demi-ssason,
! instead of the flat bands of gilt worn lss
l winter.