Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1889-09-14
AMONG DELIGHTFUL SCENES.
UP AND DOWN THE L0vELIEsT AND
sTRAEGEsT OF RIVERS.
Scenes Upon and Along the Saguenay
River Leila j. Lindley's
Pleasant Journey.
STEAMER UNION,

SAGUENAY RIVER, Sept. l, 1889.
Of late years the Saguenay river has
come into prominence as pleasure trip
for the tourist who is fond alike of fishing
and of scenery. The angler finds plenty
of chance here to indulge in his favorite
pastime, and ample opportunity to feast
his ewes on the beauties of nature.
We left Montrea on the steamer Que
bee, and after night on the st. Lawrence
were transferred to this steamer, which
makes semi-weekly trips to Chicoutimi and
back. The journey is forty-eight hours
from Quebec, and you take up your board
and lodging on the steamer for that length
of time. Along the st. Lawrence, until
you reach Tadousac, the trip is not par
ticularly interesting, as for hours you are
passing by a continuous chain of noun
tains, and very monotonous chain, too
no variety whatever. For sixty miles the
steamer makes no stop. Then all of sud
den you look out, and she has landed at
lighthouse in the middle of the water. All
this seems strange, and you wonder why
such landing is made. One lone man
landed at this deserted spot, and we don't
know now how he ever reached the main
land, unless some sailing vessel happened
along or a chance rowboat.
Having started on our way we did not
stop at any place until we reached "Mur-
ray Bay" one of the watering places of
this section Of the country. The first thing
that attracted our attention was the diff
Guilty the pilot seemed to have in landing
the steamer For half an hour or more
We backed in and out, turned around and
backed again; finally the boat went with
a tremendous crash up against the wharf,
tearing half the structure away anc COM
pletely tearing in twain the guard poles
that hung from the deck. Other than a
good shaking up there seemed to be no
harm done, so we went ashore to inspect
MURRAY BAY,
Or as much as possible of it in the lin
tied time we had to stay. For hun
dred yards along the shore were any num-
Der of the queerest little conveyances
called calashes. They are two-wheeled
contrivances set way up in the air. and
on a huge spring, resembling the Dolan,
only about three times as high. To
crown all this superfuity is top-heavy
cover that might have come out of the
ark, from its antiquated style and APP
pearance There is back seat for the
passenger in this vehicle, and a tiny
covered rim for the driver. The constant
feeling is that the Jehu will be hurled
unceremoniously into your lap, and all
during the ride you can't dispel the iliu-
sion, for every time the wheels go into
a rut or over any slight obstacle the
driver sways, and involuntary out go both
hands to keep him in place, and to save
your own shins from holding up burly
Canadian driver. The situation was so
novel and ridiculous we were in a con-
slant state of laughter, and all had the
side-ache when We got back to the steamer
whether from an over-indulgence of hi
larity or the extremely perilous attitude
we had been obliged to assume we hardly
dared say. Nevertheless, if we could
choose our conveyance hereafter, we de-
cided unanimously in favor of some other
style than Canada calash.
Leaving Murray Bay we sailed many
miles along rugged shore and where
here and there were little villages, such as
none of US had ever seen before. There
was, apparently, but one street. The
houses were all built along this road, and
about an eighth of mile apart. Back
from every house and up on the hill was a
piece of cultivated land in beautiful order.
and no doubt the only means of making a
living the people round about here have.
1t certainly did look queer to see two or
three straight miles of village and not a
single house built out of line to mar the
regularity-eaoh mans backyard was on
the hillside, and each one looked so neat
and clean. Just before dark we landed at
RIvIERE DU LoUP.
Which is on the south side of the st. Law
renee, and Immediately opposite Tadousac,
at the mouth of the Saguenay. Riviere
du Loup is also on the line of the Inter
colonial Railroad. Crossing from here to
Tadousac we arrived at the sh-hatchery.
Again we all went ashore to inspect this
industry. 1t was almost too late to see
much of anything, but we were treated to
very good object lesson 10y gentleman
who understood the business.
Night was now upon us and we retired
to the cabin, where the evening was
whiled away at whist, music and other en-
joyments. All these river steamers have
pianos and card-tables so we can easily find
some kind of amusement The next morn
ing was Sunday this morning) and we
reached Ha-Ha Bay at $50 and remained
over until half. past ten. This little Catho-
lie settlement is on bay lust off from the
river. Tradition has it that some sailors
after vainly trying for hours to find
laughingly cried "ha-ha"-pleased at hav-
l.. l. II
village took its name, and Ha-Ha Bay it
has been every since.
Here is a new, fine church, and we all
went to morning service. On board were
a large number of priests from Quebec,
Les Eboulements, Murray Bay, and from
all along the line in fact, and they all
alighted here and went to mass in the
chapel These priests were all en- route
to Chicoutimi, to what is called retreat.
They were most intelligent and interest
ing set of men, and so well informed it
was great pleasure to hear them talk.
We had ample time to inspect
IA HA BAY
And to walk to the hotel ON the summit of
a hill, from which place we obtained
magnificent view of the surrounding coun-
try A fishing club, composed of members
from all over Canada and the States, con-
gregate here during the summer and
slaughter the finny tribe. Nearly all the
houses are built Of timber hewn by hand,
and the irregularity of the outside finish
gives an odd appearance to the dwellings,
yet some Of them are very pretty. 1t is a
noticeable fact here that all the roofs
curve out like French cooked hat Why
or wherefore, do not know, and could not
seem TO find out the reason for such a
queer curve 1t gives all the villages a
quaint, picturesque sort of look that we
rather admired. Having taken on the
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