The weekly messenger., 1889-10-12
AN EXTRAORDINARY SCENE.
How the Shah OF Persia Travels in
His Own Country.

1t was pitch dark as we approached
the royal camp, and the appearance
presented thereby was very extraordi-
nary. There appeared to us to be miles
OF white tents, each with n camp fire
burning before it. There were camels,
mules, and horses in every direction
that our eyes penetrated. 1t was as if
we had suddenly been plunged into the
midst of a vast army, and well it might
be, for the following are roughly the
statistics of the retinue which accom-
panied the Shah from his capital to the
frontier: Four thousand quadrupeds,
including mules, horses, and camels,
for carrying the luggage and drawing
the carriages; 5000 tents to accommo-
date 1000 to 5000 individuals, % car
riages for the royal suite alone, 3 royal
wives, and their 40 female attendants.
The Shah's tent arrangements cover
over an acre of ground. The huge red
tent inhabited by the still slumbering
monarch was visible from afar. 1t was
pitched in a grove of poplars, by the
side of tiny lake, and surrounded by
wall about eight feet high, made of
Resht embroiderv-that is to say, an
embroidery of chain stitch, uniting lit
tic bits of colored cloth, which we know
well enough in England in the shape of
table covers and anti macassars, and
for which l have never really felt any
grea taffection; but still, when it decor
ates high wall inclosing an acre of
ground the effect is startling and mag
nificent. Finer table covers of the same
material were spread as saddle cloths
over the many gayly-caparisoned horses
around us, and Just rs We approached
quantities of mules were on the point of
starting with royal and other baggage,
with bright red pals cast over their
burdens. All the carriages were wait
ing ready before the CRATE into the royal
inclosure, which was formed of poles
painted red, looking not unlike gallows.
Anisi DOwlet, the Shah's favoIite wife,
was Just going to start in her gilded
carriage, drawn by six gayly-caparison-
ed horses. She is a remarkable woman,
who has held her position of favorite for
thirty years. She has no children, she
is not young, and / am told not beauti-
full; but her intellectual qualities are
such and her manner so bright that
they have placed her far ahead of the
other ladies in the royal harem. She
always started an hour or two before his
Majesty, presumably acting as o good
wife should, to see that all was in order
and the slippers ready at the other end.
There, too, was the Shah's own horse,
called ''Beest Satoun." or Twenty
Pillars" with its beautiful and neat
gold bride and its saddle cloth of very
fine Resht embroidery partially cover
ing its glossy TANKS. From the bearing
rein two straps of gold lay across his
chest; he is q splendid animal and al
ways held in readiness for his Ma;esty
to ride when tired of driving in his car
riage. Close to Twenty Pillars" stood
another horse in readiness to carry his
Ma Ma;esty's pipe bearer; the pipe is a
luxury indulged in by all Persian gran
dees when travelling. His Majesty's
own kalyan or water pipe is carried in
drum shaped case, covered with purple
velvet and gold, and strung from the
saddle. At the other side are suspended
the firebox and the water gourd, SINH
larly decorated and all ready, so that at
a moments notice the pipe can be pre-
pared when the Shah expresses wish
for Whit of tobacco. Among the
horses were the body guard with their
silver and gold batons, the running
footmen clad in red with hats not unlike
fools coxcombs, any number of gener-
ais, officers, and soldiers. The scene
was one of the greatest animation and
brilliancy, lit up by the rays of a Per-
sian sun.--IThe Fortnightly Review.