Morning journal and courier., 1889-05-21
Some Royal Ladies, Headgear. TFron Galipnani,s MesSenper

From Galignani's MeSsenger
 humber great many royal ladies amongst my customers. For instance, I have fur- nished for years past the hats and bonnets worn by the Princesses of the Orleans fami- ly. The Countess de Paris dresses In g se- were and simple style, and always wears round hats-never bonnets. Her hats are small and of special variety of the toque shape, which is prepared purposely for her. Dark brown and black are her favorite col ors. Her married daughter, the Duchess de Braganza, shares her mothers simplicity of taste. The Duchess de Chartres, the sister, in-law of the Countess de Paris, is one of the most elegant royal ladies of Europe. She is famed for her graceful carriage, and it has been said of her that to see her sit down was in itself lesson iu grace. Her usual style of headgear is the capote bonnet in black and gold, or cream>white or red, all of which colors or combinations of color are very be- coming to her. Her daughter, the Princess Waldemar of Denmark, prefers 8 style of headgsar which is gotten up especially for her. It is of the toque shape in front, cur ving down at the back in something of the cspote form. She likes straight high trim- mings set in front of the crown, never wears strings, and particularly dislikes hanging
 
 fresh, fair complexion she delights in deli- cate shades of pale blue or of silver gray.
 The Empress of Russia has been for some years past one of my customers. Like her sister, the Princess of Wales, she never wears high-crowned or large brimmed hats, which, indeed, would be unsuited to the del icate type of her beauty. Everything must be small and neat and compact, whether hat or bonnet. Her favorite colors are pale blue and mauve, and several of the new shades of green, such as Nile-reed and varnish green, which last is the newest color as yet produced this season.
 Her sister-in-law, the Grand Duchess Vlad- of Mecklenburg-Sc Schwerin, is one of the roy- al leaders of European fashion, being ex- tremely stylish in manner and possessing in- finite taste in dress.
 I have just carried out for her an idea of her own, which was to combine in toque a crown in real sealskin with trimming of white silk gauge. This union of fur and gauge, of dark brown and white, was daring and novel, and perfectly successful. She delights in wearing flowers, her favorites be- ing chrysanthemums and violsts.
 The wife of her second brother, formerly the Princess Elizabeth of Saxe- -Weimsr, also has much taste in dress Just at present she band is the cousin of the Emperor of Ger many, and she is still in slight mourning for the Emperor Frederick. She wears com pact capotes with close bordering and strings, the bow under the throat being very becoming to her. When she was married, three years ago, I furnished the bonnets and hats of her trousseau, comprising some thir- ty in all. Every costume was made with hat to match, and every carriage or recep- tion, or theater dress, had the bonnet to cor respond in materials as we'll as in color.
 The most dressy royal lady in Europe is probably the Queen of Portugal She or ders not only bonnets and hats, but dresses as we'll by the wholesale. Her pale com plsxion and auburn hair permit of her wear ing any color or shape in the way of head- gear that she may fancy. I have made her immense hats and small toques, and oapote bonnets in straw or gauzs, or fur or velvet, or gold embroidery, with trimmings of os- trich plumes or of artificial flowers, or of brocaded ribbons. Whatever may be the fashion of the hour she likes 1t and will try it. She orders toilettes and bonnets not by the score, but by the hundred It is almost impossible that she should ever wear out half the elegant things which she purchases. Withal, she has exquisite taste in dress, and perfectly understands the art of suiting the accessories of each of ner dresses to the dress itself. And she sets off a toilette by the singular grace of her carriage and the regal dignity of her movements. Even un- der the simplest conditions of everyday life she looks ''every inch queen."