Waterbury evening Democrat., 1889-03-13
EXECUTIVE EPICURES.
SOMETHING ABOUT THE SWELL
 DINNERS AT WASHINGTON.

It was at the time of Mr. Buchanan's administration that the most marked change in dinner giving commenced. A new mode of serving dinners came in, more expensive, of course, for it necessi- tated additional servants and other auxil- laries. Gautier had opened large con- tectlonary and restaurant, and had. with Wormley, monopoly of serving swell dinners. Some of the more old fashioned in social life regarded his mode an in novation and refused to acknowledge it's superiority.
 The most marked difference consisted in reforming. the entrees and the wines, etc., served with each. He it was who, in place of the Sauterne or wine of that character, served with the raw oysters, with which all dinners commenced, fur nished frozen punch called Arabian punch. It was white and frozen to the consistency of cream. Anamusing incl dent of this innovation occurred at a din- ner given by Marshal Hoover. Among the guests was Col. Sam Stambaugh, of Pennsylvania, very noted political leader in that day and friend of Mr. Buchanan.
 SAD BLOW AT PUNCH.
 The colonel was late, and he arrived after the guests bad finished oysters and punch, and were on the soup. He made his apology and took his seat His oys- ters and punch awaited him, and con- versing with his neighbor, he commenced spreading the punch over his oysters.
 It was observed, of coHse, and the gentleman next him said:-"Colonel, ex- cuse me, but that is punch"
 'The - it isl" said the colonel; II thought it was horse radish."
 ta <l>o nel, recognized authority in such mat ters, denounced this new style and pleaded in favor of the old fashion, and gave dinner few evenings after, which was served in the old style It made no impression on the new style, however, which continued to be the rage, increas- ing in variety and expense.
 The coloners experience of the new order that evening did not end with the punch. With the dessert was served what was then entirely. new-biscuit glace in different colors and in paper cases. He looked at the one placed be- fore him and said to his neighbor, in tones of disgust audible to the whole table: Shaving soap, by"
 Fashion, more powerful than any op- position, was on the side of Gautier X Wormley, and the old style gradually WAS wiped out. The dinners at the ex- ecutlve mansion were more lavish under MT. Buchanan's administration. There was very perceptible change in mode and responsiveness, and of course it pre- vailed ill the private dinners.
 Slidell and Benjamin gave expensive dinners, and one of your representatives at that time, Gen. Sickles, occupied a fine house on Lafayette square and gave most elaborate dinners and suppers. He lived most expensively, entertained lib erally, and from one of these dinners of exceptional elegance, given on the Thurs day before the fatal rencontre with Bar ton Key, which occurred on Sunday, he was called to learn, as was testified to at the trial, the particulars of the affair which led to the killing of Key.
 Senator William M. Gwin represented California, and occupied the large man. sion on street. near Nineteenth, where his dinners and entertainments were mo- table. Mrs. Gwin's fancy ball furnished as much talk and exhausted as much preparation, i'll the costumes worn, as the great ball of the Vanderbilts a year or two ago. It was a very fine affair.
 GORGEOUS FOREIGN FETEs.
 There was a good deal of the swell attributes in the entertainments of that period which might be attributed to the example set at the White House. There were several distinguished foreign wis itors during the administration, and they were entertained with lavish and elegant hospitality, and the example of the president was followed.
 The English minister at about that time, Lord Napier, entertained ire quently and with great elegance. He was popular beyond any of his prede- cessors, was very general in his invita- tions, and mixed good deal with the people of Washington, attending "stag" parties, then prevalent in the club, con- gressional and official fife of Washing ton. Before his return to England ball was given to him and Lady Napier by senators and members of congress, off, cials and citizens, and a very handsome affair it was.
 The foreign legations have always ex- ercised a very potent influence in Wash ington society. Naturally SO, as they enjoyed position that entitled them to every social attention. The influence of wealth had, up to the close of MT. Folks administration, made but little impres- sion. The old families who, with the army and navy and officials, made up the social life of Washington, were as select as McAAister's 400.
 There was but little wealth among them; competence and comfort were about the standard reached at that time A few years changed it all. The inroad of wealth drove out the old substantial style, and the new regime brought new modes and larger expenditures.
 Each season newer styles; each season more expense and, of course, more ele- gance. The cost of dinners and parties swelled into thousands, where hundreds were formerly expended This increase of entertainment and the general invita- tions extended to official receptions brought to the city class of people, male and female, who, without the so- cial recognition at their homes entitling them to the entree, forced themselves into every entertainment without invita- tion and with no acquaintance with those upon whose hospitality they in- fringed.
 That style of thing continues to this day, and some efforts for protection from these hordes is needed.-Cor. New York Telegram.
 Blood Will Tell.