The sun., 1889-12-29


that ere imported for the holiday season. and
more especially for New Years. mainly, II not
altogether. for customers OF foreign birth The
delicatessen stores all over the CITY are teem.
ing at this time with delicious confections and
peculiarly prepared meats which have only re-
Gently leftthe foreign shores, The Italians all
over the city will on New Years Day prepare
dinners which will In nearly every respect be
an exnct reproduction OF the dinnerp that are
eaten In every nome In Italy There are .
great many dishes which 20 to makethe New
Years dinner just what the Italian heart longs
for but Of those all could be spared with the
exception OF one, without which II would be as
little like the genuine italian meal as Christ
mas dinner would be what II proclaims itself
to the EnRishman without plum pudding.
This, however, ia not sweet dish A proni-
nent italian merchant in this city, who wanted
to be sure to get the genuine thing. called on
siguor Buchignani the other day to inquire
whore he conld got the real raviolL The Sig
nor, in spite OF the fact that he has been libra
rian Of Congress. and is very patriotic Amer
ican citizen. has q profound knowledge OF all
things pertaining to his native land. Being
also Rastronome OF good repute. he was able
to furnish the desired Information.
1T will be impossible" said the SiRnor. !" for
you to make in this country exactly the same
ravioli we used TO have in Italy. because there
10 one important part OF the dish that cannot
be obtained here. 1t is the bietola; but you
might use spinach. which Is much like IL How
ever. the best thing to do ia to buy that which
is exported from Italy. There are several
places that get It for the holidays."
Ravioli Is the italian ational dish. II 10 ex-
pensive and 10 made with great labor. SiRnor
BuchiRnani was kind enough to give this def
milton OF its component parts:
You take" ho said. some breasts OF chick
ems. little sausage that is made only In Italy.
and Of which very little is used. as 1t 10 for
havorlng only: calfs brains. parsley, and
bietola, and this Is all mixed into paste. II
you can afford 1t. you will also use truffes.
Then you make q pastry OF eggs, flour. and
butter; there must be no water used. This
pastry is worked hard on board and rolled
out rs thin as paper. Then 1t IL cut into forms
by using the top OF sherry glass; The edges
layers SY Then A t Is S boiled in broth for thirty
minutes and put upon a platter: over it is
d and the Whole V Is served ~ With M plensy Of Par:
mesan cheese. To make this properly requires
an experienced cook; but once L Is eaten the
dreams rs one one OF the delightful things OF lie,
Another dish. which is known as eapelleta
made somewhat harder and smaller. It Is made
especially for expectation. but is sold only dur;
ing this holiday season. when It is sent to al
as a separate dish, but By putting portion OF
Il into soup It adds q fine flavor to that Every
Italian IN New York VINO can scESPe ;,T S,pTPuEa
that for his New Years dinner, even though he
may have to go WITHOUT food for several days
But while raviOll is the piece de resistance Of
tho Italians New Years dinner. there are other
TSSe SoS e RSsn his h' eounpa Sna
would consider tho meal unfinished. As an
appetizer, for instance. the Italian would want
cooked. which has been kept in the smoke
room for long lime; 1t Is pr pressed s 80 that that
o S is eS
parsr are served before dinner. and the flavor
Whics f Is the shoulder @ Of beef cured In the same
y; served Y thin mn sss
tarda di frutli di Iremona. This mustard Is
unlike anything seen In this county at other
and intoit are put fresh figs, ,alm?nds, citrons.
cherries: and a very small and delicious Italian
pear. all OF which fruits have been carefully
% sard they are S 6oiled In distilled E syrup This
mustard Is usually eaten with game or fowl
is Known ss as R papioftS' SS Nhich means ne strons
bread. 1t is made Of the paste Of tgs. alberts.
e ssd o II
times seit and sometimes hard. which Ia put
Liz norsaI il has sSS Wafsr S 'eo coxeis. % these
things g., aas brought to New N York IN Limited
shsir " other Tor
ports only eoough 70 satlafy his particular Gus
has been ordsred Dy their customers. and Very
iew @ take ani an large QUANTITIES. Or They cannot
aso ey aSnT fng S
be said. howeySr, that most Of these foods are
50 prepared that they Will last for months in
"A great many Esiian wines are imported at
the same time; INT the special one for New
can be had either yDarkling or still. In; Italy
the consumption o. this wine on New. Years
town where the winehas been sold for the past
Ileyee in living well. aad says that he Imported
large e. bottle ike tlis. Re said, gives s the
e VINE, and md he Therefore sss more more coniortsbie
anu easy about emptyinRhiS glass frequently.
fpd no ditticulty in ind disPssinG p Of ny stock"
oueh heartiness IT Is, IN Germans. It is
have many things peculiar TO this season:
Marzlpan is CONNECTION male principally Of
eggs and sugar and I9sSSSar -four is
and looks not unlike one. Each cake has a
particular design. ami much of,the work Is OF
. very intricate pature., Some Rkes look like
white pictures. A very handsons one that the
writer saw was about two feet wide. ami repre-
sented a monk standing besidt o donkey.
The latter had Just kicked on a'bRsket. and
the contents. a lot Of eRgs fruit, and vsgeta-
bles were strewn over the ground, many of
the eggs being broken. The vegetables, the
eggs, and the fruit ell looked verI natural
This cake was valued At Ss. but there were
snme as small as ordinary sponne cakes.
There were also limitations OF sausage with
tho different shades Of the meat well wrought
out Carrots. beets and Other vegetables all
looking very natural wero made OF the same
confection. Marzipan is used particularly on
New Years Day 1t is served to viBitors and
is used also ut all meals. 1t tastes not uLlike
heavy cocoanut cake.
LebkuchSn made specially for New YeRrR Is
imported in many different forms. There is
brown ehkuchen. which II heavy and thick. ard
encrusted with almonds there In ano her kind
covered with white sugar. aud some which haA
small globuleA of spiced candy ON one side and
almonds on the reverse. Fancy boxes. con-
tanning different kinds OF lebkuchen. are fire.
quently given no presents by Germans.
Among the other things specially imported
are anise cakes. which are Favored with anise
seed, meiander. which Is q Hight cake nav ored
with a German seed and parsle braun con-
like rich chocolate, and 10 very expensive.
Little chocolate bottles hlled with fancy cor
dials are also OF German origin. These como
put up in fancy boxes, and are made with great