Sacramento daily record-union., 1889-06-16

1
| Marigold and SALIVA poses
| ately suutowers, humble panies,
| "Heartsease, true as little Fans is"
Quoth my lover, speaking low.
| In the orchard trilled robin:
All me how my heart was throbbin'
Those long, happy years ago.
| Well, the tales been often told;
| Two things-pure love and pure gold
| Do not wane with passing fashion;
| Life is cold without loves passion.
Pick me that blue pansy yonder--
| Thoughts for pansies," say you ?-fonder
Grow our thoughts as We grow old.
| Happy, as the rough path steepens
| And our feet lag. True love deepens,
| Just because the tales retold.
For many years dresses have not been
so simply made as are the most stylish
! that are seen this summer And seldom
were seen such beautiful goods, both in
color and designs, as are the new muslins,
organdies and summer silks. Among
| favorite tints there are indefinite greens,
such as that shown by the new willow
| leaves or spring lily-buds, tastefully en-
broidered with pale heliotropc. faded rose,
crushed strawberry or the grayish-blue of
old brocades. Looking at some muslins
the other day in a great fashionable en-
| porium, | found some ravishing French
goods, Just imported. One with water
green ground had light clusters of roses
tied together with pale mauve ribbon
thrown over it for a fringe; another was
lake-blue, strewn with golden and orange
sprays of gillyhowers; another was pale
lavender, over which was scattered purple
violets and yellow pansies; another, cadet
blue ground, was covered with crimson
carnations.
These goods are made up in the plain
est possible manner. Generally both
skirt and bodice are entirely plated,
surplice fashion, in narrow regular plaits.
A sash of moire, or faille ribbon, not very
wide, goes around the waist and is tied at
one side in long loops and ends. The
sleeves are either pulled out in the upper
part with a bow at the elbow and then
plain down to the wrist, or else they are
plated down from the shoulders, and fall
loose and full in the pagoda style.
Silk dresses are also made quite plain,
but often of two shades of color. Thus, a
gown of striped silk pekin of two shades of
green is made in the new redingote shape,
with close-ftting bodice and plated skirt,
both bodice and skirt remaining open in
front to show an under-skirt and under
waist of cream-colored surah, over which
are showered fine wool violets of darkest
purple, with green leaves. Both the bodice
| and skir: of surah are slightly draped
across. Handsome applique of passe-
menteries are placed upon the shoulders,
fronts and sleeves of the pekin silk. A
belt of the same goes across the waist and
is finished at the side with long ends and
! tassels.
The best silk for summer wear is I'M
doubtedly good quality of foulard, which
is durable and light; does not wrinkle, and
combines very well with other materials.
Our best American mills are treating this
speciality with particular care.
There are decided novelties in the new
foulards, the general tendency being to
black figures on colors, or to colored figures
on black. The colors are usually half
shades, nearly faded-looking, and the de-
signs are rather fantastic, with large figures
| and apparent irregularity of arrangement.
The japanese style is much in favor, and
a great many figures are borrowed from it,
especially in moss color, rose color, corn
color and black Other styles are large
white polka dots, with small black polka
dots in the white ones, on very brilliant
red ground, These are mostly to be used
for the foundation of lace dresses.
As to colors, the combination of green
and black is still extremely popular, es-
pecially in cloth and moire. Red remains
very fashionable, but rather less is seen of
the coquelicot or poppy red than of the
host of derivative tints, such as old Roman
red, Pompeii, brick. beef-blood, etc.
Many Of the new bodices for costly
evening toilets are cut off round at the
waist, or very slightly pointed, the edges
covered by folded sash or ribbon laid on
fiat. A large portion of the dress corsages
are devoid of darts, being adapted to the
figure by the deeply-arched side seams and
by the graceful curving of the fronts, down
which it is closely fastened by invisible
hooks and eyes. Superb galoons and
jewelled gimps are made great use of, these
put on in straight rows or crossing each
other in Grecian style.
Fichus and fancy shoulder capes are sent
home by the modiste with airy summer
dresses, whose bodices are left but slightly
trimmed for this purpose. In honor Oft the
| Centennial year there are large squares of
of deep-hemmed silk null, richly bor-
| dered with Puritan silk lace frills. Those
are the Martha Washington" handker-
chiefs, which are lightly folded and crossed
over the breast in the demure fashion of
that respected lady's day. Other artistic
corsage draperies are known as the Marie
Antoinette fichus, the Recamier scarf, the
| Queen Mary and Sir Joshua Reynolds
berthas, and other airy accessories of
| Spanish, Swiss and Italian STYLES
am happy to tell you that the ball
| dress, with no sleeves to speak of" and
extremely low neck, is now thing of the
past, and no respectable woman dreams of
making such a spectacle of herself as was
deemed good form few years ago. Eng
lands grouty old Queen may go on insist
ing on the usual show of feminine backs
and bosoms, fat and lean but, happily,
| there is no such criterion in this country.
HandkerchiefS are very small and en-
| broidered in colors to match the costume.
Lace is again used on dressy handkerchiefs I;
and those of colored batiste to match the
gown are very popular.
THEIR NOTION OF LUXURY.
The other day group of Washington
ladies III familiar conversation drifted into
the subject of wealth and as to what con-
stitutes real luxury. Each woman present
was asked to name her hearts desire if
money grew on bushes and women were
turned loose in the feld?' The ladies, by
the way, were all Of moderate means, or
this notion of luxury would have no
weight; and were all educated and we'll
bred, or their fancies would not be worth
repeating. Did they vote for diamonds,
silks, laces, trips to Europe, horses and
carriages? Nothing of the sort. The
preponderance of desire among these
daughters Of Eve set in the direction of a
maid. A trim, tidy, deft, cat-footed, mind
her-own-busiues, don't-tattle, toilet-secrets
maid; one who would keep all the para
phernalia of women in requisite order,
who would neglect nothing from the but
tons on her shoes to the not-too-much per-
fume on her handkerchief; who would
superintend them both and understand
the proper use of all dainty toilet appli-
ance, and could relieve her mistress of the
never ending weariness of dressing her
own hair. That group of women spoke for
most of the sex.
POSING BEFORE THE PUBLIC.
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett, the
eccentric authoress, is one of the most de-
voted and loving of mothers, although her
own unbounded admiration for her two
beautiful boys has inflicted upon them a
vast amount of posing before the public in
attitudes somewhat more graceful than
.s.t,, r4ohI Ia L