Los Angeles daily herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1884-1890, 1889-09-09
NOTES ON DRESS.
The Fashions for the Fall and
winter.

The Fashions for the Fail and
winter.
Bodices in a score of fanciful shapes
appear among the autumn novelties, and
added to the wide empire-sash draping,
revers, and crossed waistcoats ad infni-
tum are many charming accessions which
impsrt graceful and picturesque look to
the entire gown, these including pretty
shoulder and sleeve pieces and Sir Joshua
collars of velvet handsomely embroid
cred, Charles Y. collars, and fchus OF
real Irish lace, crepe lisse waistcosts,
bretelles, and girdles, with deep cuffs to
match of cream silk passementerie or OF
black in old Flemish patterns, and an
tique fraises, fichu-jabots, and collar
cites in almost endless variety.
Some of the autumn dress skirts are
arranged so as to give the appearance of
redingote or polonaise, though in real
ity the bodice is separate from the
basques, which fall below the waist, the
division being concealed beneath some
sort of girdle. This style is much more
easy to make than fitted coat. Other
models show front like spencer
jacket, and this cut away over a waist
coat finished with deep pocket-faps at
the side that are as wide and deep as
many of the French basque pieces. AT
the back the drapery falls straight, with
wide bands Of rich passementerie down
each side, matching those on the spencer
jacket.
The jacket of this autumn is not of any
fixed variety, for there are jackets and
jackets-French, Russian, Moorish,
Spanish and Italian, the latter of black
velvet over a vivid red silk ehirtwaist
embroidered in black silk. They are
buttoned to the throat or open all the
way down, they are plain and severe in
English tailor fashion, or displaying
many Partisan coquetries. They are
long or short, single or uble.breasted !;
in fact, they are anything that the
wearer may fancy, from a Roman red or
deep-blue "Reefer," or Polish neglige
of striped pilot cloth, to long, somber
"Carmelite" of gray or black, envelop-
ing the wearer from head to foot.
A new and very rich material imported
this autumn is fancy velvet plaided or
striped upon grounds of lustrous and
very elegant corded silk or armure. This
fabric appears in lovely evening tints of
lilac and cameo pink, violet and deep
apricot yellow, Nile green and primrose,
etc., and also in superb dark shades for
dinner and carriage-gowns, to be COM
bined with plain faille or armure silk,
moss green and gold, dahlis and amber,
two distinct shades of terra Gotta crossed
with bronze brown, peach color and
heliotrope, etc. Another handsome nov
city is India broche with China designs
in velvet upon its magnificent surface,
the patterns being borrowed from ancient
oriental tissues.
Among the winter colors in the new
dress goods is nickel gray, which is
dark silver tint that combines we'll with
many of the new colors. Celadon ia the
palest blending of blue and green. There
are a number OF dark and red shades i'm
ported in velvets and silks, assuming the
dahlia or rose wood tints with which We
are familiar, but introduced among the
new goods with new names. There is a
dark oak shade like the old English oak,
called black oak, and a new brown with
much gold in it is called kaironan. Many
of the brown shades show tinge of vel
low. It is said that lilac and peach
colors are now worn in Paris, and that
the cardinal red is also in favor there.
A number OF recently imported cart"
toilets for autumn fetes and balls are
made of crepe de chine in loveliest tints
of old rose, willow green, straw berry and
primrose yellow. which have very beau
tiful shoulder draperies of diaphanous
Indian fabrics. Every possible luxury
is displayed in these scarfs, many being
beautifully wrought at intervals all over
the airy fabric with fine seed pearls.
Much grace is impaired to these TART
toilets by the def arrangement of these
scarfs. Very handsome ornaments in
real gold and silver are used to hold the
light folds in place on the shoulder and
below the waist. As the dainty scarfs
are very expensive and likewise perish
able, they are added only to the very
high priced cart" models.
One of the striking features of the mo-
ment is the almost unmitigated 1atness
of the backs of some of the elegant
imported costumes just received from
both London and Paris. "As straight
as yard and quarter OF pump water, y
exclaimed a modiste, upon beholding e
number OF typical French walking
dresses just out OF their packings. Skirts
are decorated in magnificent style, with
embroideries, borderings, passementerie
marvelously deit, are very slight, ever
upUu LAOct pCIoifO CFCAAb5 lOiAStI
and reception gowns. Another notice
able matter is the color schemes, which
are more than ever novel and unique
Orange and copper colored trimmings
are in great vogue abroad.
Some brilliant red directoire long coats
are seen upon the fashionable promen
AIDES at the various resorts, these
deliberately decorated with cape collars
bands and special ornaments in black
passementerie, some of the pyramid and
elaborate arsbesque designs reaching
half the length of the garment on the side
seams, and points on the front OF the
skirt portion. Beneath these are worn
lace skirts or accordian. plated ones OF
the palest lilac, pearl, ecru, sea- green, Oh
primrose China silk. The contrast Of
the brilliant color of the redingote with
the soft delicate shade of the dress ii
striking, and in a way picturesque, but
is not admirable on the street, even at 6
very fashionable watering-place.
The extreme simplicity of style mod
eled on the directoire pattern will b'
popular during this coming TALL season
Among the dress toilets is shown {
round, full skirt of China crepe caugh
up on the left side with clasp, silk core
or chatelaine, while the bodice is Ions