The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-09-14

was installed as director of Mr. and Mrs.
Nande bill IS kitchen. 10 eph did not act
I as c ok, but under him wert lef cook,
b ad cook and helper-three Frenchmen,
culinary artists Of no mean ability aud all
chosen by Director Dugnioi himself. Above
stairs there were tive " servants, mostly
+ gish and IRISH, with whom Joseph could
not get on very amicably, and at times, he
saws, they were inclined TO combine againsC
the rector and to hict petty annoyances
upon him There was more fault found az
the servants table than at the masters
| b ard.
To Illustrate tie little things which
cited him Joseph told me that one even
ing when master of the house had 60
I the theater fine cold roa chicken had
be II pared hy Joseph's direction for MIR
Nal p bilt to nibble on his return about
m dnight 10 x Def re that hour, how
ever, the fowl mad disappeared at the ha IDS
or some upstairs servant. The lackeys
were, in fact, frequently lOoting the kitchen
larder, Joseph says. or cour 9, W unded
Josep 3 en- Utilities to think tnas his mas
ershould be deprived OF delica' les esnecially
prepared at the artistic chef, direction.
NO CoNGENIAL SOCIETY BELOW sTAIas.
Though tn grated on Joseph's feelings,
these were small Ills, however, compa ed
with the co npuis)ry moving of his ,mily
from Newport to L png Island and agai
back to New York. Very soon Joseph
found that life below stairs, even in the es-
tablishmant of a Vanderbilt, as far differ
eat Fl ON the prominent position he ce
held in the big Paris restaurant. At home
he could talK to every well-known pri zee
and Cree us of the land. and have the salts
faction OF he ring their prai e Of his monu-
ments of culinary skill. Here be was seen
by nobody, and was gradually sinking into
oblivion.
the chang was irksome to him, and he
longed for his dear bOule ard and his oil
patrons at the Maison Pollard.
Besides, Ame leans are be ter in Paris
than they are here,' he said to me conf
dentially yesterd AZ as he slipped a little
absinthe. He said that his employer al
loved him ample funds with wAicl to search
the best ma kes; in fact, he had carte
blanche almost in supplying the table with
every luxury. In return for this confid .nca
repo ed in him he decided to oppose the sys-
ten of tips given by tradesmen and market
men to the stewards, chefs and other man
VINO furnish supplies. scores of retailers
came TO him with offers Of money in order
to obtain patronage, but in every case he
claims to have refused it. All he demanded
was the lowest prices and the best articles.
In this manner he believes that he saved
several Thousand dollars annually to his
master.
Finally couple of weeks ago he decided
to leave Mr. Vanderbilts employ, and
whom ne acquainted Mr. Vanderbilt with
MS purpose he was promptly relieved. Mr..
Vanderbilt very generously paid him up to
the end of the second year, although it
does not end for SIX months yet.
AMERICANS THROW FOOD AWAY.
81 wish to say that | was treated with
uniform kind leSs by the members of the
Va derbilt family said Joseph, "And the
story that there was any difficulty between
| US is utterly unfou ided. But | was never
III service in prlva-e house before, and l
would not accept another place of the kind
| for 100000 francs year. Paris is good
enough for me. | will return there.
my observations here have been that
you Americans do not eat rigl The tably
IN this country is, unfortunately, second
airy thought. 1 mean, of course, am ng
the middle ella 'ses, not with the rich.
Americans throw away more food than
they eat, because 1t is not properly prepared.
Then pOultr, Is poor aud muscular
your veal inferi II, and your vegetables
mostly DAD. You have no sole nor turbot,
nor brill nor nussels like hose in Europe
Even GU peaches, pears and apples in
Fl ance are better than here.
still there are many articles of food in
the U nited States with whlcn a chef can
delight his heart and please his patrons
| Your canvasback duck is the XII of game.
nile pour Spanish mackerel, bluefish and
striped bass are delicious Why, we would
not eat hou der and halibut in France,
uei her do we cat the green corn, which is
said to be very excellent in America. Wild
turkey is a Fl game, which is unknown in
| the French markets.
"Yvs, eveA i'll the kitchens of the million
aires economy is practiced by the chefs, or
should be. Ofcourse, never hesitated to
utilize the beef returned to the table in
making croquettes and the much sneered
at hash. No chicken was ever wasted by
me when | C uld easily uSe the left over
portions for salads the next day. l have
made study of dyspepsia, and have tried
to prepare all fishes with a view of prevent
ing Jha ma ady.
"Well, adieu. New York city Is grand,
| but Paris is imperial"
MODERN INQUIoITORIAL TOR