Morning journal and courier., 1889-11-20

How the Guides Make Their Ex-
tert1onate Demands-A Little Drama
Enacted In the Great Pyramid - The
Rowling DervIshes.
ALEXANDRIA, Egypt, Oct. "a.
To the Editor Of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
A delightful carriage ride led to the pyra-
mids and sphinx at Ghizeh. Much of the
way the road was well shaded from the fierce
rays of the sun by long line of tropical
trees. The roadway ran along various local
branches of the wonderful Nile, the main
stream being crossed by bridge. Little
evidence of commerce was visible on it's wa
tors. A few small sailing vessels with tall
curved masts alone lent animation to the
scene. The ascent of the pyramids was
made by some, while q few entered the
gloomy pile of stones to visit the chambers
of the king and queen. Others were quite
content to view the wonderful monuments
from the surface of the earth and endeav or
to realize the fact stated by Napoleon during
his campaign here that forty centuries looked
down upon them. But little opportunity
for reflections was possible owing to the
small army of guides profering their servi-
ces, or Arabs with antiques to sell or camels
to let for short drive. Though the average
tourist is hunted by beggars and peddlers
daily through many lands, yet the climax is
reached at the pyramids. To decline polite-
ly dozen times means nothing to the Arab
or Egyptian. Nothing less than bluster,
with the appearance of terrific rage, drives
them away.
1y~ al Inv koti 10
csnd the pyramid or to enter its dark and
dismal vaults. However, in moment of
exuberant good nature I presented the Arab
Sheik with my pocket knife. Arab like, he
wished to show his gratitude and extend me
some rude hospitality. Hence moiyeh, wa
ter, in q stone jar was repeatedly urged upon
me. Knowing how sensitive the race is con-
cerning refusals of such courtesies, after
much coaxing on his part consented to be
shown the interior of the pyramid.
He called three stalwart natives who seized
mo by each hand, alternately pulling or
pushing, and was hurried in to the hoary
grave of forgotten kings. The descent was
rapid, being an inclined plane Of marble
worn as smooth as glass by constant use, ss
pilgrims have gathered here from all olimes
during the past four thousand years. At
some points was compelled to crawl on my
where the three sturdy Arabs lifted me al
most by main strength over wall nearly as
high as my head. Finally we reached the
"Queen's Chamber, !" where we shouted and
clapped our hands to hear the echo from the
vsulted ceiling.
Now the men made demand ON me for
"three good backsheesh," }" meaning a large
present to each man for escorting me.
knowing that the conductor of our party
l. -.oSl 4 I,>sl~ eor kI,H
and that was the guest of the sheik him
self, who desired to show me courtesy for
nay small present, I positively declined to
contribute single piastre.
was alone in the center of the great pyr-
amid of Ghizeh. The men might be cut
throats or desperadoes or some description.
Be 1t as 1t may, I had firmly resolved to
make no payment on principle when the
journey began, even at tho risk of my life.
It is q common trick of the natives to get
the traveller half way up the pyramid and
extort more money from him, threatening to
push him down; or within the CLASSY tomb
make sinilar demand at lonely and dan
gerous point.
Springing quickly back and assuming an
indignant It not hostile attitude, I shouted
| Justify:
"Not one step. am here as the guest Of
| the sheik. Let no man lay hands on me to
resist me. No further will I 60. Back ts
the open air I will find my way alone.
will report every man to the sheik."
The effect was almost magical. Like
| whipped spanisls they fawned around me.
"We no want backsheesh. You will
please no tell the sheik. We are your ser
wants. Let us show you the Kings Cham
| ber"
"No," answered, 'not another step viii
| 20 with you. am the guest of the shsik
| He shall hear 1t and will return alone
Hands off, every one Of you"
returned, but In spite Of all my opposi
tion they persisted on rendering some assis
tance, occasionally calculating:
| "We are your servants. You will pleas'
not tell the sheik."
was glad enough to reach the open al
once more, but failed in my attempt to re,
port them to the sheik. Aistaking anothe
Arab for him, ! told the story. He did no
understand hardly word and laughed loud
| ly. Seeing my mistake, tried to speak +
| the real sheik alone, but found 1t impossibl
with 80 many natives and tourists arount
him, and was compelled to abandon the ides
One of nay three Arab guides came crouch
ing around me just as our carriages departe,
for Cairo, making Anal attempt for money
| 1t proved fruitless, however.
"Egyptian darkness" indeed closed i
around Us before our party reached the hote
at Cairo. My carriage, containing four be
sides myself, tive Of whom were ladies
members OF the company, had very poor an
slow horses. No amount of whipping coul
scarcely get them to proceed faster than
walk. Twice guides came back to lock fo
us. Finally, as we were then three or fou
miles from, our destination, another carriae
was procured and we were driven rapidly
the hotel.
No one should leave Cairo without visitin
the bowling Dervishes. They meet fer wol
ship every Friday afternoon at tive O'Clock
Though our train for Alexandria departed I
four p. m., we managed to spend about a
hour among this peculiar, small aud fanat
cal people. Their religion was brought frol
Persia and presents many curious and gr.