Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1889-05-02
RUSSIANS IN NEW YORK,
Their Home Life and Mysterious Castro
nomfc Delicacies-The Samovar.

nOmtc DeiicacieS-The SamOyar.
In society circles of this city Russian
innovations, such as the "samovar,' ~
have recently found favor, says the
New York Morning Journal, until prob
ably some new japanese or Patagon-
ian fad relegates the copper-burnished,
eVer-humming, tea-brewing machine
to a stall in the antiquarian's collec-
tons or to a corner of the workshop if
circumstances take a peryerse turn.
There is, however, a small and wealthy
element of Russians living here in the
homes of whom the samoVar and all
that is distinctly Slavonic pleasantly
conVinces the American who has the
good fortune to be honored with an in
Vitation that he can study Russian So
ciety life without travelling in the do
mains of the ear.
Among the Russians of means and
lineage residing in New York, Count
Gesthoffsky and his pretty young wife,
who occupy elegant apartments at the
Eskdale, appear particularly as cen
ter of attraction to those of their COM
patriots associated with the Russian
diplomatic and consular service, in
GLIDING Baron Roman de Rosen and
Doctor Popoff.
1t was at dinner party attended by
this elite circle of Russians that the
writer had an opportunity a few eve
nings ago to study bit of customs
and life among our highbred Slavs.
The drawing-ro- n in which the sew
eral guests were received with charm
ing informality by the hostess at once
impressed one with the foreign pic
turesqueness of its appointments.
With orthodox Greek Catholic rev.
erence each guest, as soon as the first
greeting had been exchanged, passed
across the room to an image of the
national saint enshrined in a rich,
quaint frame of Byzantine design COW
ering all of the canvas except a me-
dallion oval showing the face and bust
of the holy image.
A small, crescent-shaped silver cup
containing lighted oil taper stood
before the "Ikon," as this image is
called by Russians. Having bestowed
the customary homage in solemn ST.
lence, the guests made themselves at
home, cOnversing on politics, foreign
COuIG 2OSSlps
Works of the best foreign authors,
as Gogol, Dostow, Jeffsky, Lovoff, and
Runsky Korsakoff, were carelessly
strewn on a comfortable. Those who
would enjoy the music of the national
compatriots found at the piano COM
positions of Gluscka, Serotf, and Te-
harkosky.
But the feature that puzzles an
American guest most of all is undoubt-
eddy the gaStronomic part of the feast.
To say nothing of the odd Russian
Typography of the menu, they are a
hundredfold more curious and COM
plicated than the mere letters sug-
gest.
Besides, the dinner has a prelude.
The host refers to this part of the BAN
quet as our ''zakouska," which in off
hand translation may be described as
a liquid and solidified appetizer of gen.
erous proportions. The zakouska is
served la fourchette at the sideboard
in a separate room. The delicacies
comprise salt and picked herring,
genuine cayiare, anchovies, fine
chopped onions, and black bread. Each
morsel requires a special libation of
Otschistenni Vodka, a liquid that re-
minds me of Jersey lightning" fla
vored with Tabasco sauce.
Strengthened by these compounds,
the party adjourns in a body to the din
ing-room, where fresh and startling
mysteries await the Investigator whose
stomach is about to become Russian
lied.
Two fat tureens send forth an
aroma different from that of any known
soup. The host asks if you wish a
plate of ''borsch," or would you rath-
er have ''schtee?'
Ignorant of the ingredients, one
might as we'll choose at random. The
''borsch" turns out on nearer acquaint-
ance TO be sort of sour cabbage
soup, in which you pour gill of cream
to give it the right seasoning accord
ing to Russian gourmand notions.
''Schtee" soup has a dark, burnt-su-
gar color, and prides itself on vege-
table mixture of boiled beets, turnips.
and half dozen other relatives of the
beet family.
The meat courses are served with a
variety of patty pastry, while Crimean
wine in original fagons cheers the
diners. After dessert the guests are
regaled with splendid Russian tea,
scented with lemon, and the putin
of strong cigarettes announces that
the dinner is at an end.