Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-06-01


mounted upon this in any form, but the per-
fectly cut and fitted foundation is always there
and the fullness, draperies, and the like, which
form the outside. follow the lines, or take only
such positions as the framework permits, or
which 1t can be made to sustain. In this coun-
| try we get rid of lining as much as possible,
particularly in the summer. partly because Of
the heat, partly because silk lining is out Of the
power of persons of limited means, and all
others are warmer. heavier, and less agreeable
The round. full bodice in Paris is always made
upon a fitted lining; here is often-and in
glngham or Saline. very properly-made with
out any lining at ALL but it requires peculiar
art to make it fit well without lining, and
therefore 1t very often does not ct with neatness
or accuracy. The average woman makes too
little OF form and too much of trimming. She
overloads bad cut and a strained. ill-ftting
dress or garment with jets and bows and buttons
and passamenteries; she always has endshyirg
loose, or something dropped or out of gear,
owing to imperfect workmanship.
SUMNER MATERIALS.
III we are to have a summer of dry heat as
anticipated, all cool materials will be in de-
mand. and there should be revival Of what
are always favorites with class Of very refined
women and that is the pretty and serviceable
ilnen lawns: These do not vary much in style
or price. They are always in delicate checks
lines or figures upon white grounds, but they
are always neat, dainty, easily made and easily
worn; perfect afternoon dress for the coun-
try and inexpensive. They can be part of sum-
mer stock for five years, and then made over
Tor the children. Batistes are more talked
about because they French; but they are
more fimsy, less useful and have to be made
over silk and extensively, to be attractive.
The shoulder scarf has been revived. but is
not yet seen very numerously. Two ladies at
tracted attention recently by walking upon
Broadway In short, gored gowns with straight
waists, leg-of-mutton sleeves, large bonnets,
drawn bags upon their arms and shoulder
searfs dropping upon the back in the true old
style. Every item of their costumes is seen
commonly enough, upon all the women you
meet. but only in incongruous little parts; it
was putting them all together that made the
ensemble SO striking as to attract attention.
IN LONDON
the fashionable scarf is of black or white lace.
very wide and long. 1t is worn full round the
neck, widening out at the waist, so that the
long ends nearly cover the front of the dress.
or 1t is draped from the middle of the back
across the shoulders and over the front of the
bodice to the belt, which is put over it, This
Is very different style of wearing the scarf
from that adopted when it was a feature of a
ladys dress about eighty years ago. Then it
had no fixed position. 1t was light and airy
touch, dependent on the cultivated experience
and natural grace of the wearer for its tasteful
effect. 1t hung it foated; it was carried I'M
der or over the arm or shoulder and used for
sentiment and coquetry. as the Spanish beauty
uses the fan and mantilla. The severely prac-
teal mode of using it now is the reason that it
does not take better. We have no real use
for it here. Ladies who purchased wide and
beautiful lace scarfs for guinea or thirty
shillings English money! last year, have had
them cut up into vests and gathered panels.
because they could see no use for them here
as independent garments. Now, however. they
regret the loss, for the scarf seems likely to
find its way and is already utilized for sash and
shoulder draperies. while the great cost in
lace renders them, of course, highly desirable.
FABRICS AND GARMENTS OF WOOL
There is nothing more fresh and summary
than the thin bordered or embroidered woolens
and cottons, in soft shades of ecru green. and
gobelin blue, worn in conjunction with the
bonnets or hats of open, fancy straw lined
with plated lisse in some deeper shade or deli
cate contrasting color that appears in little
touches in the embroidery. All the trimming
needed is this lining and a small wreath OF
flowers or grasses. The dress. a straight skirt
with bodice crossed. straight skirt and belt or
sash of silk or ribbon.
A princess coat is a useful garment for cool
regions. 1t Is of gray, terra-cotta, or gobelin
blue wool, lined with thin silk 1t is open i'm
front and curved in like a vest to show the
light or white dress front. 1t closes at the
waist with broad band or strap, opening from
the waist line to the foot in front, at the back
and also on the sides. weight should be
placed at the lower corners to prevent them
from flying back. 1t may be made in solid
material without lining, such as mohair or
even pongee. But pongee has little warmth.
and 1T Is better that the stuff should have a GER
tain stiffness if 1t is not lined
The blouse and plated waists, which are SO
fashionably worn by girls afford them an adj
mirable opportunity for exercising or acuuir-
ing amateur dressmaking skill. No better
chance will come to them to ease their lives of
the burden of dressmakers' bills than practic-
ing on the straight skirts, the simple gathered
EfE Drahh Il nrrax hNTlH z~R -
several seasons-so many, indeed. that it is
PLAIN these pleasant practical styles have come
to stay. Example, in this case, is worth as in |
others, much precept. One clever. patient, in |
dustrious girl does more to stimulate these
QUALITIES In other girls than columns of words |
ANovELTY IN BoNNETs,
which is an English invention, is called the
"collapsible." 1t can be folded fiat and used
as fan. 1t is ''guinea" bonnet in England
(S5) made of silk and ribbon, and should GER
tainly be boon for travelling. for it is said to
be as stylish as 1t is light. and universally be-
coming. The season that is coming will prob
ably be one of the gayest on record, notwith-
standing the exodus to the Paris exposition.
This event doubtless takes great crowd to the
other side of the water. but on the other hand.
it is a sufficient reason with many who are fire,
quent visitors abroad, to stay at home.
WHEELING.
Tricycling and outdoor sports are now 80
largely cultivated by women, that fashion ia
obliged to take them into account. Indeed.
the fashion of them came from England with
the tabernacle dress. The best dress for tri
cycling-and this is in reply to several INQUIRIES
upon the subject-consists of an accordion
plated skirt short walking length, plain. loose
trousers OF the same material instead of under
skirt, Norfolk or blouse bodice and belt fastened
with buckle. The shoes should be the same
that men wear, undressed leather, laced up the
front, and the hat light cloth with extended
tip and muslin cape at the back, removable,
when not needed by the hot sun of a country
road. soft silk handkerchief may be knotted
around the throat. Wash-leather gloves.
Nothing hanging, nothing superfluous.
JENNY JUNE
Protection from Clothes Moths.
From Good Housekeeping