Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-08-03
copyright. 1891

Since last April this country has passed I'M
harmed through one centennial celebration
and Fourth of July. We have listed untired
10 countless patriotic speeches landing to the
skies the growth, prosperity and freedom Of
the people and the American eagle has screamed
with prde until its voice is hoarse. Yet no.
where In the world is man the trammeled and
1ettered creature that he is in this glorious
land OF freedom II the American eagle were
Travelled instead Of a domestic bird doubtless
Its sxultant screams would have been tempered
by note or two Of advice.
Why7
Inere are many reasons. During the sum-
mer months the large cities of the eastern
states have nearly tropical climate. Take
New York, for instance. According to the
official reports of the signal service the average
mean temperature of July is 70 degrees. How
much warmer do you think it is IN Bombay,
India? Only 4 degrees and the average of
Calcutta is only 81 degrees.
Nov, how do you suppose the natives Of Bonn
pay and Calcutta dress during their heated
term? Do they wear stiff-bosomed linen shirts
with q double thickness of stare and material
over the breast, high collars, cuffs, waistcoats,
four-in-hand ties Of double thickness of silk,
and patent-leather shoes?
They do not. The native Hindoo may be
miles behind the American citizen in political
and social freedom, but, like the wise man that
he Is, he has emancipated his personal self be-
fore he has undertaken the graver problems of
political advancement
THE FLANNEL SHIRT
Last year the American citizen made his first
effort toward shaking off the coils woven by
society for his enslayement. 1t took the form
Of the flannel shirt. Monuments are yearly
being raised to mark the heroism of famous
men. Let the next be erected to the
memory OF the man who first wore a fan
mel shirt down town to his business. He
deserves this much at least at the hands
OF the persplring sex he has liberated.
That his effort was timely is shown by the
number Of men who have followed his exam
pie. The flannel shirt is to-day the most pop
ular garment Of American summer wear and
next year will see more worn than all other
styles Of shirts combined. But not the only
way that man should show his newborn indie
Pendence and keep cool is by wearing fam
mel shirt.
WOODEN UNDERWEAR.
Equally important with the flannel shirt is
the underwear. The coolest and most sensible
underwear is made of wool. The lighter the
material the better. Angora or Australian wool
are the finest and most expensive. The shirt
should be reasonably tight-ftting and its
sleeves should reach to the wrists, SO as to alb
sorb all of the perspiration from the upper
clothed portion Of the body. suit of wooden
underwear costs from So to IS and will last two
seasons with ordinary wear. 1t is a mistake to
think that thin clothes silk is as cool as wool
The former materials do not absorb moisture
and on a hot day they stick to the body almost
as uncomfortably as a linen laundered shirt
The coolest socks are of Isle thread or silk
and cost from fifty cents to 80 pair.
BEST GOODS FOR SHIRTS.
When it comes to the flannel shirt there is a
large list of styles that next year promises to
be almost endless to choose from. There are
flannel shirts and flannel shirts Some are cool
and some are hot Some coarse and some fine
Some are costly and some are cheap. Some are
models of tastef1lness and works of art and
some are ugly to the point of hideousness-
mere daubs turned out by the dozen by pot
boilers pure and simple.
The coolest flannel shirt is made of Angora,
Glasgow or French twilled WOOL 1t is one
inch longer around the neck than the linen
shirt. Its bosom is of single thickness 1t is
opened IN front and is fastened with plain
pearl buttons. Gold and jeweled studs should
never be worn with flannel shirt The popu-
lar pattern this year is either in narrow stripes
or checks upon a plain white or pink back
ground The stripes which have the lead thus far
are of pink. blue, black, brown. and their beauty
Is greatly enhanced by the use of silk strands of
thread. Sometimes the stripes in the bosom
are made to run crosswise over the breast but
tins style has not attained marked popularity
Shirts Of this sort cost from 81 so to IS each
and should last two seasons if they are properly
washed.
There is only one way to wash flannel shirt
to prevent undue shrinking. and this is the
way; Luxe warm water and no soap should
be used. An ignorant but industrious laun-
dress can by the use of boiling water and soap
transform flannel shirt that Is two sizes too
large for Its owner into creased and wrinkled
necktie In a half dozen washings. With care
flannel shirt should shrink very little and
none AT all after the second or third washing
PRETTY BUT NOT COOL.
Some men who allow their vanity TO warn
their judgments buy silk shirts These are
made in nanny patterns and are undeniablv
pretty. One of the neatest styles has black
stripes upon white background. 1t is heavy
and twilied and shines with luster that no
starch could give. Itcosts from 81 to $40. lint
II Is not cool. Pongee silk shirts are lighter
and less attractive in appearance while thew
have the same defect. They are hot and do
not absorb the moisture.
Now that man has chosen his underwear
and nannel shirt he must select his neckwear.
The coolest and most appropriate tie is made
OF ngnt SILK, blue or white in color and with
white or blue figures. 1t should be tied in
DOW OF sailor knot and the loose ends should
orooP graceiuliy over the wearer's breast.
SHALL WE WEAR sUsPESDERs.
Here comes another point that the freeman
must consider. Shall he wear suspenders or
not? That depends. Upon what? Upon three
things.
First Upon his size and shane To tho
man Is stout, with generous girth of waist he
should unhesitatingly stick TO his suspenders
III he Is slender, with a fair width of hips. be
can 60 braceless with impunity.
Second. Does he intend TO wear a waistcoat
III so suspenders may or may not be worn. de-
pending upon the freeman's preference. If he
olscards his waistcoat he must let his susnend
ers go too-h he can
Third Will he buy his trousers ready-made2
linen let him buy a pair of suspenders also
Suspenderless trousers must be made 10 order
Ihey must Mt the hips snug and close.
IL suspenders are discarded belt of narrow
silk should take their place. This NAV he CON.
eealed by broad belt Of folded silk. lint This
Is no cooler than a waistcoat and while il lends
10 the wearer the picturesque appearance of a
staRe pirate between the acts, a sensible Free
man will discard it without moments besita
zion
In the choice Of
COAT, wAIsrcoAr AND TROUSERS
the freeman must decide whether he is to e+r,er
seaside or a business suit II the former he
has many varieties to select from. The coat
should be loose-ftting sack. He should vear
no waistcoat II possible and his trousers should
be loose-legged and flop at the ankles on windy
days The material may be of white or blue
serge or flannel The latter is preferable "a IL
10 thinner and does not shrink.
III he wants a business suit ha has st;,l
greater latitude for his choice. The palm for
comfort must be given to the serge. The color
may be whatever the waarar dao,-oa .L---L