Telegram-herald., 1889-09-09
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Masculine cizcfas II fashion are b.
ginning 20 - 2gitatet resps- Unx tas
styles ahlsh the divinity II ssftorial
as e-s peescrl 1st 4s tae eorret- tLlnx
go - 4eanae - the Ellted Fella during
tLe coming Ia al1 ailref seasoa- Ire
l-ls 4-l-La &lll nloef tle solar faYs
yi.a . solch % increasing cAl-ilEes-.
sn1 ttose lls-rlla slrls of elegance e 1l-n
&c ere happy result ~ lu5lusa and
Esru1eIllls eiforg ga tle part ~ uasare
sa1 -ae l-llor. mast rerl1rre shed tls
trse4F apparel ~ tLs sselleflng dog
days fer tAe heavier garments adapted
e TIE season ct fading fQHoIs ana tle
seer 4nd Yellos leaf Now IS the Ac-
cepted time % prepare for the preface
OF sinter 4ul no asthrtlc duty ot upper
dom IS dlse larged With = hr44tlef zest
or a more profound eiea-lousuess
Ia the latest degrees " fashion. the
styles hill 0e found e. 5e varied ana uu-
to44lly artistic and for tlls reason must
prove wonderfully adaptive 10 those ln-
Vulnerable varieties of form and ngufe
v alch span the sIlf between Hercules
and Apollo. The inviting prospect
renders the fav0ritss of fortune y 10 are
blessed Nth toshy pocke-books. more
tlan ever eager for an early interview
with the tailor stroll among the
artists Of New York and talk aith tie
sartorial "litterateur. John J. Mitchell,
enables the writer 20 present summary
oi this most interesting theme which
may bear the stamp OF accuracy and aU-
thority.
The most popular overcoat for fan or
winter use viii oe a shapeiy " front
saok Of moderate length. made OF light
material with lapels Ia inches wide
and roll 5 inches. The side seams OF
the back arc bat slightly curved and for
persons of average height. the length
varies from 3J-l 20 3f+ inches. The
sleeves are moderately large. though
sLspely on the inside. and finished with
"a vent and bottom snching For winter
wear, the length ranges Tor the average
height from s. 20 40 inches. The lapels
are about 81. inches wide, and the
seams OF the velvet collar are lapped
and stitched wide The fronts 20 the
end of collar are faced with plain or
quilted silk. and the edges piped with
velvet with single row OF stitching
about 4. inch back Of II. The ample
sleeves are finished with imitation cuffs
closed with two buttons. in other
respects there is no difference between
the two overcoats. both being finished
open. the fronts roll free. The indica-
tions are that the box oyercoat viii be
worn more than usual. II would doubt
less come into more general use but for
the circumstance that 10 IS garment
that icw can becomlngly wear because
II IS "A coat that looks well only on those
who know how % wear Il. To do so is
knack that only few possess. II
may be added that the box" is a gar
ment that every tailor cannot make with
pronounced success. If IL is not eyi-
IDENTIFY large and loose IL is not what a
box coat should be, but if it appears
baggy n the back it is monstrosity.
The cape ulster will continue 10 be
favOrite and the style most in favor viii
be moderately loose, single-breasted
sack about IS inches long for the aver
age height with ca pc reaching nearly
% the bottom OF the sleeves. having bat
little drapery extending in front 10 Just
back OF the crease Of the coat and de-
tachable. The collar Will be from to
4 inches wide, and the roll 3 inches
deep. The side pockets will have wide
in or out flaps and two breast pockets
viii be stitched in. The fur-lined and
trimmed OvercOat viii be more in vogue
than ever. and viii be an ample sack
made of kersey OF smooth-faced goods
In blue or brown. double breasted with
wide sleeves, with raw edges double
stitched, and with Tapped seams. The
collar viii be Of the shawl form, about
: inches wide at the back, and the cuffs
Will be as deep as the collar is wide
Sea otter and the mink viii be the most
popular furs for this purpose. The
inverness" viii be chiefly used for
wear over an evening dress being es-
pecially adapted % this purpose on ac-
count Of It's amplitude, and the case
with which il can DC put on or takon of.
Usually it will bs made Of rOughish
suiting Of modest pattern. though dark
cheyiots viii be preferred
1t IS 70 be noted as special features OF
all coats, that the shoulders are cut
modera iy wide. while the sleeves
average lG inches at the elbow, and IL
inches 80 the bottom. The fronts Of all
coats are made soft 20 roll free
II may be stated briefly that the ma
terials used for the coat and trousers
are softer and finer than heretofore.
White and delicately tinted silks and
black satins. richly and e3aboratoly en-
hrOidered or embossed. VIII be- i'm great
favor for vests the low roll silk faced
saok. variously designated the "Cowes"
and Tuxedo" and the dress sack viii
be very popular for certain occasions
whore the stereotyped evening suit was
once indispe
The Teakedlapel and the shawl
collar swaliow-tail arc the only coats
proper for evening dress although the
dress sack is corroo, for stag parties,
with ladies in full dress. i'm the billiard
rooms and for informal evening visits.
The waist length for either style n
p ff..a~ - . a ..