Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-05-19

disposition at the Voisin to Neglect new
eomers and to impose upon old customers.
When head waiter or one OF his garcons
serves you in negligent manner, forgets
your order, or brings you something that
you never called for, then things are not
going along in frst-class style, and that is
precisely what happened to me the last time
dined at the Cafe Voisin. But there are
in the cellars of that house red wines from
the Bordeaux country which were bottled as
far back as 1911, and the price toI each bot
tie is just $40.
vANDERBILT's JOSEPH.
Bon vivants have high opinion of Big
mons old place opposite the Vaudeville
Theater, now known as Paillard's. 1t is
small place, richly gilded and decorated
inside, but cheap looking as to is exterior,
and it stands at the very top, both on ae-
count of its cuisine and its wine cellars.
This is the place where Joseph was head
waiter when Vanderbilt ran across him.
Joseph was not the cook of the establish
ment; of course, he is cook, for all good
maitres d hotel in Paris restaurants are
chefs by profession, but they are never the
chef of the establishment. Joseph was not
only head waiter, but he prepared a good
many of the sauces that his clients
liked, and there never was another
person who could look after a roast
wild duck better on ehauthng dish,
or serve you up poulet gras with salad
of his own seasoning so well as be. We
used to get the best attendance aod the best
dishes out of the fellow by giving him carte
blanche for the breakfast or the dinner-but
the bill used to make us vince when we
paid it. Apropos, Mr.. Vanderbilt does not
pay Joseph IS, 900 year, nor even half that
sum. There is not q hef in America, nor
in any other country, VINO gets more than
s., 500, and very few receive that much.
Further up in the Boulevard des Italiens,
on the same side of the way, is the Rue
Helder, and few wards along that street is
a restaurant called the Lion dor, which
ranks among the best in Paris. 1 think,
though, that the service is not always what
it should be, but 1 am very fond of the
cooking. Having peeped into
THE LION Dor
you can retrace your steps to the Boulevard,
pass Tortoni's and the Maison Doree, and
presently you will come to the Cafe Richie,
which occupies the ground floor and entresol
of the New York Life Insurance building.
This is where poor Harry Homans had his
headquarters, and sometimes dropped in
there to have a talk with him about things
in general The Cafe Richie can boast rare
clientele, and there is one thing that is GER
tain, the chef does prepare the incest sauces
for fish and fowl that were ever eaten. The
Cafe de POpera, under Drexel, Haries &
Co. bank, in the Boulevard Haussmann, is
a restaurant to be recommended more for its
high prices than for its excellent cuisine,
and yet it ranks among first-class places.
The Cafe de la Paix has more customers than
any other establishment in the capital, but
it is not tirst-class restaurant-''it is a
place where eatables are manufactured, !"
was the way in which one Of my French
friends described it the other evening. 1t
is popular resort for fast men and women,
both for dinners and for suppers, and its pri-
vate rooms are the scenes OF frequent orgies.
The dinners at Durand's are not so good as
are the breakfasts. This is the restaurant
opposite the Church of the Madeleine, where
General Boulanger made his headquarters
during the electoral campaign of last jan
uary. 1t is famous for its Chateaubriand
beetsteaks; the chef cuts tenderloin of