Morning journal and courier., 1889-10-05

in, walled over him, and they all sailed away
over the mere to the ''island valley of Avil-
lion" that his "grievous wound might be
healed" All about, If you wander inland,
and as green and odorous with foliage, as
when Queen Guinevere rode through them
ia -Maying" before she sinned and Arthur
fell. Every one hereabout will tell you King
Arthur lies buried In the leng, low mound on
the high desolate moor midway between Tin
tagel and Launceston; but prefer to be-
lieve with the Cornish fisher folk I know
fairy laad; that his spirit often hovers with
pathetic murmurings over the old scenes in
the form Of bird, the chough, which coast
wise people venerate; and that he will surely
"come again."
''wearing the white flower of blameless life,''
to reign as king should and might over his
beloved England.
From Tintagel to famed st. Ives-famed
chiefly, but not alone, through the undying
nursery rhyme query,
ASH was going to St. Ives
met q man with seven wives.
Each wife had seven sacks,
Each sack had seven cats;
Each cat had seven kits;
Kits, cats, sacks and wives
How many were there going to st. Ivess'-
road, or cliff paths leaving and returning to
the highway, makes possible the constant
presence of the coast to the lover of nature
on foot. Antiquity, historic spot and brave
old legend being dsarthful in this sublime
reach of frowning coast, another pleasing
feature of Cornwall gives zest and interest.
Whatever may be the dreary effect upon the
traveller of the dismal downs and barren tors
along the rocky back bone of Cornwall.
there are never ending surprises of beauty
for constant repayment. Towards st.
Georges Channel at the northwest and the
English Channel at the southwest, innumera-
BILE valleys and tiny burns slope towards and
cut through the walls by the sea, every one
discharging impid streams, which go whirl-
ing, foaming or singing to the sea. Along
the sides of these lovely oombss are the
quaint old homes, the rich acres, the ample
ricks of grain and the sleek herds of the
hearty, happy farmers of Cornwall. Tramp
these desolate coast roads but mile, you
suddenly stumble upon these lovely wales
the stream, the farms half hidden by gleri-
GUS foliage dotting the sides far up the
combe as eye can reach; here a rumbling old
mill; there Nesting church; below you the
quaint old village; beyond the tiny haven
skirted by the homes of fishers and specked
by queer old fishers crafts; further tide
ploughing up between massive haven walls
or stretch of low tide rock and drift; and
at last the bright blue sea. Beautiful scenes
are these for the eye and heart mind to dwell
upon; hardly to be found in such number
and winsomeness anywhere else upon all of
England's coast.
But here is ancient st. Ives, its name de-
rived from holy woman of Erin, Iva, who
came here with St. Breaca just one thousand
four hundred and thirty years ago. 1t is the
quaintest, most odorous and almost the most
famous fishing port in England. Beyond,
only fifteen mile tramp along the coast-in
which you pass over the lonely Zennor moors,
loiter among the donkeys, fishermen and
children of beautiful Withstand Bay, where,
| at Sennan cove, King Stephen landed on his
| first arrival in England, and King John de-
barksd after his first conquest of Ireland
where millions upon millions of magical sea
shells are forever there for the taking, and
where you are constantly made conscious,
| through the pride of the sturdy Inhabitants,
that You have now seen the westernmost viii
| 1age of England-and then down over dull,
| stony road you suddenly come upon what
| appears to be the busy back yard of some
| odd little village inn, and you have arrived
| at England's famous Lands End. This lit
| tie inn, chiefly a refeotory for briefly tarry-
| ing travellers, enjoys at least the distinction
| of two suggestive and humorous signs. On
| the landward side from which you approach
| you may reach in good Gothic lettering,
| "Last Inn in England" Fifty feet away,
assertive notice to the whole western hsmis-
phere, there is the equally significant sign,
"First Inn in England" After getting your
food and paying your bill here you cannot
| forget these two inn signs. There is little
green plateau in front of the inn. The ex-
| tremity of this is the last of English MAIN
| land towards America From its height of
| four hundred feet great masses of black xii
las or slate break away in diminishing
heights and areas to the southwest, termina-
| ting in the beetling heap known as the
"Arned Knight" and a mile distant the
"Longship" sea crags, on which stands q
| noted lighthouse. A speok on the horizon,
| twenty-five miles further, may bs descried
| with glass. Here stand the Soilly Isles,
| the ocean wreathing them endlessly with
| foam, while the warn and esuable sea airs
! permit the csaseless grazing Of herds, and
| furnish for London an almost tropical sup
ply of vegetables. In calm or storm Lands
End is wild, forbidding spot. And not a
week passes when there is not doleful wreck
and loss of life.
You are now upon the southern coast OF
| Cornwall. The cliff walk between Lands
End and the great Logan or rocking stone is
and the whole sublime sweep of headland,
promontory, seething cliff bases, spume
| swept, rocky islets, with picturesque coves
| and colorful bits of life in fishing craft, tiny
| wharves and flower embodied fishers huts,
| for all that distance are constantly before
| you; while the grandeur of the sea which In
calmest weather beats upon the cliffs In
mountainous ground swells, although seem
| ing calm beneath the horizon, Is such as
have never elsewhere seen. The Logan OF
| rocking stone Is no more interesting thar
| many on our own northeast eoast, or Others
in Ireland; but Cornish folk revere it with 6
sort of superstitious awe. You are soon al
lovely, leafy Penzanes, where semi tropica
verdure is seen the year round, where the
l ah yNv t. hrD
the oldsn smugglers, pirates and wreckerf
wore; but as it IL high priced, priggish and
"o'er airish," you tramp on to little MsraE1
| on, from where the ancient Jews, as traders
| supplied the Phunicians with the precious
Cornish tin. It Is but fishing port now,
noted with ST. Ives for fshwives and "pil-
chers," the pilehards of Cornish fishing
fame The bay, Mounts Bay, is gloriou. in
deed, and there, but half mile away, con.
neeted by mainland with a low tide rock
strewn causeway, looms st. Michaels Mount,
| with it's granite pyramid cutting black sill
houette against the southern sky, and its
peak surmoun ted by the castle of the Saint
Aubyns, built on the remnant of fortiaed
monastery, given by Edward the Confessol
| in 1914 to the Benedictine monks. It Is q
grand old sea giant, recalling the Great Sksl
lig OF the southwest Irish coast; and English
song and history are a. full of 1t as IL ths
| noble bay. A tramp of twenty miles more
and you will have seen the southernmOs
English mainland at Lizard Head, where
the mammoth double lights, the roaring
| fog horns and the tremendous bells all can
| net prevent a constant and awful record ol
wrecks; when it is pleasant thing to re.
turn to Narration, or here to ST. Ives, fol-
brief study of the pilchard fishing ani
the simple, honest, brave and warm heart.
ed folk who reap where no man sows 18th.
harvest Of tho sea."
The fishermen of Cornwall, everywher,
acknowledged as the brayest and hardies
in the British Isles, not only ply their We
eatien on the southwest Irish coast, among
the Hebrides, and for all deep sea fish
through inealculable danger around the evel
bowling Cornish coast, bat find their chic
profit here at ST. Ives, across the peninsu'
Ia at Narration, and further to the north
east in Mevagissey Bay, In pilchard seining
These fishes, whose spawning haunts art
still mystery, frequent the Cornwall ooss
In mighty 'sehools" from July to October
sswhsn the corn is in tho shock
| The fish are at the rock,
is the old couplet about them. PilchardI
resemble the herring, but are smaller
roundsr and oilier. "Husrs" or watcher,
stand constantly at the St. Ives farthes
headland and signal the approach of "pil
cher schulls," )" as they call them, the reddisl
and ripply appearance of the water betray
ing their presence Then the dead old tow,