Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1889-01-16

harbor was perfectly desolate, for years not
vessel has entered it; primeyal trees
grew around it, and for miles there was not
a habitation. Since Mr.. Bailey ian early
engineer) left, not person has visited it;
and probably the only thing that keeps it
alive, even in memory, is the theorizing of
scientific men, long way off, or the occa-
sional visit of some Nicaraguan fishermen,
who, too lazy to work, seeks his food in the
sea. 1t seemed preposterous to consider it
the focus of great commercial enterprise;
to imagine that city is to rise up out of
the forest, the desolate harbor to be filled
with ships, and become a portal for the
thoroughfare of nations"
Since Mr.. Stephens visit to Nicaragua
surprising changes have taken place. Even
st. John of the South" has been invaded
by greedy Gringos, and Brito, the terminus
at present most talked Of, IL miles from
the lake, via canal, is booming.
From the mouth of the st. John a wagon
road, cut years ago with mechates through
the traetless forest, runs to Nicaragua City,
crossing that variable river score of times
in its zigzag course. The valley of San
Juan del Sur is about 100 yards broad, and
during the rainy season-from May to No
vember-is frequently entirely covered
with water During the dry months
part of the way leads through the shallow
bed of the stream; at other times of the
year ascending among tangled thickets.
Further down the valley opens upon a
stony and barren plain, where the sun beats
down with prodigious force, and focks of
turkey buzzards-here called sopilotes-
watch for carcasses, whether of man, mule,
serpent or alligator, it is all one to these
voracious birds. All this region is happy
hunting ground for the enthusiastic sports
man, for deer, wild turkeys and other
small game abound, and big black apes
walk about among the trees.
Just before crossing the mountain we
strike branch of the canine real-a
straight track, ten feet wide, shaded by
magnificent trees, some of which have
branches forty feet long. Looking back
from the hilltop, one sees the two great
ranges, standing like giant portals, and
imagines the magnificent spectacle soon to
be presented, when the ships of the world
shall pass through those splendid doors on
their way between the oceans.
After crossing the mountains the whole
country is a scene of beauty. The fields
are covered with tall, rank grass, studded
with gigantic trees, while encompassing
all, at only short distance, stretches the
dark forest, and just ahead. like spectral
sentinel, stands the white cone of Omot-
peyne. Before reaching our destination we
plunge into the woods again, and after an
hours ride, before the city is yet in sight
through the thick trees, we hear the ring
ing of vesper bells and hear the barking of
dogs in its suburbs.
The town itself possesses little of inter-
est. 1t is called Rivas as commonly as
Nicaragua, and stands on the western
shore of the lake. When in its normal
condition-that is, when not over-run by
canal-speculating Americans-its popula-
ton is about $500. But it is not of much
consequence and probably never will be,
since Grenada, thirty-fve miles distant,
monopolizes the lake commerce.
FANNIE B. WARD.