Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1889-03-13
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

SPRING ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS GOODS
NEW ,BoNNETs- TRIMMINGs-FLowERs
from our Female Fashion Correspondent
Dress patterns to be made up in Empire
style are provided with pronounced borders
on one side of the breadth which comes
wide enough to hang crosswise, so chat the
border appears around the lower edge, oc-
casionally running up the side. On the
other side of the breadth is narrow border
and this is torn off for garniture on corsage
and sleeves, for which a quota of plain
goods is brought out. Other double width
woods show two very broad stripes travers-
ing the centre, and such ornamentation
composes the skirt front of Drectoire
costumes; the inevitable Directoire coat
being made of plain goods in Keeping
This feature of combinations, is pervading
one. The ordinary bordered goods seen on
every hand, are exponents of such idea, and
plain fabric invariably accompanies novelty
weaves sold by the yard. The last named
materials are in stripes of medium width
and represent, of course, new colors. New
bordered goods come also in what are called
handkerchief patterns, and as square of
wide double width is of considerable d.
mension, two are sufficient for costume in
connection with plain goods. Handsome
new borders are in flower bank patterns
that in rich abandon at the bottom, send up
graduating stalks, leaves and flowers, to
quite distance up the skirt and with
tapering effect, bring about much that is
graceful and in harmony with nature in
spring time. The stores are full of
CHALLIEs
that promise to be quite as popular this
season as the last and as hitherto, they are
attractive in floral, leaf and geometrical
patterns, being rivalled in the same line by
India silks, and both are simulated by
satines with silky finish. As feature of
the season, borders come for combination,
but velvet is still finish, or oftener than is
known, the favorite material Velutina,
which possesses the strong points of velvet
at much less price. 1t is in demand for
Directoire coats or indeed can be applied
to any other pnrpose for which velvet is
used, the more SO, as it is imported in all
the new shades. In spite of novelties, as
Lord & Taylor say, however, plain materi-
ais must always have position they give
change from more striking goods; are the
best choice for travelling and form really
elegant costumes fer general wear, when
made up stylishly, being moreover, better
adapted to stout persons than any goods
showing figures. Alpacas and brilliantines
stand high on the list of plain goods, al
though in Difference TO rage for borders,
modicum show such finish. But unsuta-
BILE in character, it does not appear to aHy
great extent Diagonals, light weight
CAMEL hair, cashmeres and Henrietta cloths
are other desirable plain goods either for
combination in making over old costumes
or used without such uniting, and in all,
the bordered patterns appear at times, fine
cashmeres being special opponents Of an
all-pervading thought. Here the border
often takes on the character of embroidery.
MILLINERY.
: Wide-brimmed hats present greater or
less boldness of contour in front and slope
away at the back, to nothing or almost
nothing. Many ara designed especially for
the Jane Hading veil, but others with
iaunty brim rolled up on one side, are
placed farther back on the head ard may
impart much coqaetry. Toques are seen
in great numbers as also walking hats. In
bonnets, capore shapes still lead, with
minority of shapes rising sharply over the
forehead and as yet therefore, there is no
povelty beyond that of material and trim
ming. Milan and fancy straws alternate
frequently in the wide brimmed hats Or
compose entire bonnets which for general
wear appear likewise in rough straw, and
all are dyed in cOlors to match spring
goods, although of course there is supply
of black. Crowns are low, and on wide
brimmed hats, not unfrequently concealed,
Or well nigh SO, by rich trimming placed
upon them, or trailing flowers that Chamber
in natural abandon. Royal Worcester yell
low is a handsome new color; Veroness
rose is a soft pink; old rose holds position;
antique blue is used to soma extent; biege
and ecru come as a matter Of course, while
green is still very pre- eminent. Many
shades are strongly tinged with blue, but
others are in the tremulous yellow green OF
tender foliage aud Iun gradually iuto
golden browns. The intermingling Of
shades is more than ever a feature and in
ell departments Of dress, cause much
prominence to color, as an element of at
traction.
TRIMMINGS,
Ribbons are quite wide, 50 as to give
acopn for embroideries in flower bank rat
terms that comport with those in dress
goods, while many arc woven in striDes
also to match material; stripes in three
tones composing the ribbon, but not ex-
clusively so, since contrasts are noticeable,
Velvet ribbon Of which there is consider
able used, comes IN narrow widths of two
and half inches, and this with reason
because Of heavy texture. Velvet linirgs
are much employed for wide hat brims, or
again, where the lining is of lace, two
narrow pipiDgs of velvet may give character
French lace is extremely popular for trim
ming; it imparts shading TO the picture;
composes light weight springs for summer
OF the entire bonnet may be attractive in
the summary look that nothing can bring
about quite so we'll as lace. This season
Furthermore, It may be noted with gratif-
cation, that trimmings are of very noder-
ate height. Alsatian bows are more used
than loops, and coronets of small flowers,
than more pronounced styles In
FLOWERS,
the continual employment Of corone:s, has
brought forward small flowers of every
species, while larger blossoms diminished
III keeping, swell the list. But as change, |
some few very large roses arc seeu,- I
Nature is closely copied In general, how /
ever, even to her defects, but again and
particularly in vieV of the great promi-
hence Of green, leafy coropets and garlauds
are imported; familiar flowers bloom quiIe
uanaturally in green or impossible 0nes
are in tone With present fashion.
RECALLED MAY.