Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1889-11-16

They are quite high, and, though they
lack the symmetry, somewhat resemble
the Louis XIV heel Of today, and while
built solid look something like a school
boys clumsy attempt at whiting out
top. Tho base or heel seat Is very broad,
and the breast or front and back Of tho
heel being each of the same slant, and
terminating with sort Of round knob,
gives the heel very comical appearance
when compared with tho shapely heel of
today. But, no doubt, in its day such
heel as this was looked upon as notable
example Of the handicraft Of some dis
ciple of st. Crispin.
Another favorite shoe for party or re-
ception wear Is seen in Fig. 4. 1t Is of
blue kid, side lace, and has a tip and
narrow foxing of patent leather. This
shoe was without heel, but fairly thick
sole of cork and sole leather protected
the wearer from daInpness. Though it
was without the emblazonment Of em-
broidery, it was none the less an expen-
sive shoe, for the stock was Of the finest
quality imported. The lace, fringe and
lining were Of silk, and all the stitching
very fine and done by hand. Such shoes
as these were the favorite ones for driv-
ing and such amusements.-
The walking boot Of the SOS does
not compare very favorably with those
Of today, at least, SO far as beauty is
concerned; but perhaps what was lack
ing in beauty was fully compensated for
by comfort. Fig. shows such a walk
ing boot as the gushing bellies Of that
period delighted to promenade in, and
no doubt caught tho eye Of the dudes as
readily as does the moro shapely novel.
ties Of the present day. This boot has
patent leather vamps and fixings, The top
is of very fine black broadcloth and made
to button; the buttons being placed
farther apart is now customary. The
buttonholes are worked with silk and
hand made. The lining is Of blue silk
and quilted very fine. The shoe has a
cork sole and square edges. The heels
are very square and give a rather
clumsy appearance to the shoe. The
counters are of sole leather and very
stiff. Such shoe as this was worn by
married ladies and the more sedate
maidens.
Fig. 8 shows the shoe that the bellies
and dudines delighted to sport their
shapely feet in on the promenade. 1t
has vamp and foxing Of patent leather
and tops oi hStl Ulur siiR, lir stitch
Ing is very fine and Ia fantastic design,
yellow silk being Used The lining is Of
white satin ard finely quilted The but
tonholes are hand made and worked with
yellow silk. Along the edge Of the button
fly is fancy stitching, also with yellow
silk. making altogether very striking
and attractive walking boot. The sole
is much lighter than in Fig. 8, and has
beveled edges. The least attractive part
of the shoe Is the clumsy square heel.
The shoemaker OF those days seems to
have lost part of his handicraft when it
came to the making Of the heel No
doubt, however, he followed the dictates
of fashion in making this sort Of box
heel, yet it does not follow that he must
needs set it as though it were ashamed
OF its uncouth appearance and seeking TO
part company with its more fashionable
surround dings, as will be seen ~ Figs. s
ard 0.
For mems wear there was not the va
riety Of foot gear as is sporicd at the
present day. Whether this was due to the
fact that the shoemaker was too busily
employed with designing for the ladies,
or that in those days men were SO act
lively employed in The pursuit OF gold