Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-08-24
this. The more familiar shape is the single.

II l.
and coiored figures. except with blacks, being
| almost universal. Black grounds are numer-
| Gus. either plain or embellished with figures.
Coiored grounds, such as dark blues, snuff.
seal brown, tan. olive, &c, are also in much
vogue, and these are all variously embellished,
| both by fancy weaves in the grounds and by
siik figures OF white, red or blue. silk is used
10 some extent IN grounds, as in such weayes
matelasses, and Il Is universal in the figures
ANOTHER THREATENED INNOVATION
is in frock coats. Nobody wears frock coats
nowadays but elderly gentlemen and country
brethren from way back. But il is not the re-
cent frock coat with which we are threatened
the genteel garment. whose skirts come down
well below the middle thigh--but a substitute
Tor 1t closely resembling the bobby coat which
Thomas and James wear when they 20 out with
the coach and the horses. This frock coat is
| now worn TO a considerable extent in England.
and that 1t will at least be offered in New
York Is a foregone conclusion. Its distinguish
ing feature, OF course. is its short skirts which
reach nearly TO mid-thgh. and present an APP
pearanee quite devoid of the dignity
1 wont TO associate with full-skirted garments.
COATS FOR STREET WEAR.
Heavy sack coats, worn without overcoats.
were frequent upon the streets last winter.
The same idea comes to the surface this sea-
son, but in different and pleasing, because
suitable form. A round cut single breasted
/
baroness and GOODNESS.
The box coat is handsome and stylish gar
ment, made in meltons, kerseys and Irish
| 1riezes. All Its seams are strap seams that is.
they have a narrow strap with rough edges
OVERLAND upon them, which gives the coat great
distinction. The coat hangs straight from the
shoulders. and It is cut quite short although
not as short as the covert coat. say between
that and the ordinary sack overcoat The
collar is pretty feature. 1t is what is called
a strap velvet collar, that is one-half of velvet
and 1t has wide lapels.
No box-coat is good style unless il has fancy
| Innings, and bright plaids are the thing. A very
swell idea is combination lining of fancy
| plaid and silk, the latter covering the upper.
| the former the lower part of the garment The
popular colors are the various blues. browns.
| drabs, tans, olive and black.
| The English fy-front overcoat is cut on very
| much the same line the box-coat. but Is
somewhat longer. 1t also is cut TO hang straight
| from the shoulders. has the strap collar and
wide lapels 1t has lap instead of strap seams
| however. The back is cut full-that is with
| out the middle seams-but this feature is not
exaggerated Cars melton in black and Ok
ford is the proper material for this garment,
which is the one that will meet the approval Of
| the great multitude who do not incline to ex-
treme things, but still want good style and COM
| fort.
| VERY SWELL GARMENT
| is the Lord Chumley overcoat introduced last
year and quite as correct this 1t is this season
made both single and double-breasted, and it's
marked feature is a longer cape than hitherto.
| When the cape is detached the double-breasted
form becomes plain ulster. Fancy cheviots
and nobby cassimeres are materials much used
| for this coat, comparative lightness being de-
sirable IN a garment whose main function is to
wear with evening dress. Colors range from
grave to gay, from light to dark. from plain to
plalded, with plaids large enough and loud
| stamn "A a n llsb
| In listers there is decided innovation.
All listers hitherto have had the piqued collar;
this season the shawl or continuous collar is
brought out. In this class of garments every
thing goes in the way of color and fabric
Irish frieze is just now popular fabric. IL
has famous dirt-and-wear-re resisting qualities
| but it is heavy for this climate. Chinchillas
| plain and fancy, are also good.
THIS SEASONS NEcKwEAR SILKS
show a very marked prevalence of Jacquard
effects. In fine goods there is hardly anything
else to be seen. The combination weaves Of
last season have almost entirely disappeared.
| and are offered only in a few pretty novelties
| likely to find market through their attract
| iveness.
Stripes are plentiful in cheap goods. but
| have little show in fine goods. Figures and
plain satins seem to be the only wear. and the
| range Of these is extraordinary as regards
figures but comparatively small as regards
colors.
Elegance is the leading characteristic of this
seasons neck wear silks. This is especially
! true as regards colors. For the past two sea-
| sons queer or unusual colors have been largely
| sought for, and strong shades of staples such
| as bright reds, vivid blues and strong browns
have had the lead. This is no longer the case
| This fall shows remarkable prevalence Of
| quiet and refined colorings in the darker
shades. Strong reds and blues are but little
shown; garnets, although somewhat in favor
are not very strong; mode colors are almost
absent, and light browns are also generally
| past.
| The great feature Of the season will be the
| blacks, of satin grounds, with self figures in
combination with silver. heliotrope, lavender
&C., in delicate and wide spaced figures. These
| goods are extremely handsome. Next to the
blacks come. the indigoes and navies. Myrtle
| green is also shown to some extent and smoke
| is fairly popular. Steel gray effects, broken
with black and white stripes or with figures
! also take well.
OF course there is fair proportion of the
very light and delicate tints, with equally deli
| cate figures, suitable for evening wear but
| there appears a much less proportion TO the
| total than hitherto, and it is evident that they
will not be in favor for street wear. but will be
confined to their proper place part of the
house toilet In figures foliated and floral de-
| signs are numerous and fairly divide the field
with block and geometric figures which have
| so long prevailed. Small flowers leaves and
1 sprays, either NATURAL OF conventional. supplN
| the motives for many of the most desirable
| goods of the season.
PUFF scARrs.
There can be no dispute concerning one
thing-that puff scarfs are to be very extern
sively worn and that they are to run from a
goodly size 20 a good deal larger, even to an
enormous size.
Besides the typical and moderate shapes in
this class there are ultra effects which appeal
| to none but limited class-what one may call
the class who live to dress. The immense
| English Ascot scarf is worn by this class and
the retailers who cater to them are buying As
cots no less than six inches wide and of equally
exaggerated length. To wear one of them is
something like wearing a table cloth about
ones neck. This style of scarf in this ultra
size is merely an eccentricity, but il has its
good points; its fullness allows il to be pleated
at the top into variety of pretty folds and
this frees II from the sameness which made-up
puffs have.
NOTIONS.
A meritorious match safe is designed in imi-
tation of an Egyptian mummy.
pennant of diamonds, flying from a mast
head of gold, is a scarfpin in demand among
yachting fashionables.
A moonstone comic mask, displayed in relief
on surface of diamond and rubies constitutes
a scarfpin of exquisite appearance.
A lawn tennis net OF gold, on which rests q