Connecticut western news., 1889-07-10
OSTRICH PLUMES.
Turning Feathers Into Bright
 Articles of Adornment.
The Work and Wages of 5000
 Girls in the Metropolis.

The Work and Wages of 5000
 Girls in the Metropolis.
 Many delicate fingers ply dainty trades down in the oll French quarter below Washington square. There is none daintier than fea.her curling. Could the ladies that adorn themselves with ostrich feathers see the plumes before they have passed through the delft hands of the girls that prepare them, the fu- ture wearers would, perhaps, look else where for ornament. All the world knows that ostrich feathers come from South Africa. Perhaps all the world does not know that feathers from the wild ostrich are seldom or never seen in the markets of Europe and America. The cheaper plumes in ther natural state look more like the tail feathers of reddish brown turkeys. Some are white, some black and others gray, brown and yellow. The commonest are dirty gray, the rarest perhaps black. They reach the factories from the Custom House in large bundles, each bundle be- ing made up of small bunch tied with stout twine. The first process is cleans ing. This is done with hot water. They come out much bedraggled, and are uglier than ever when dried.
 They next pass to the dyers. These are men mostly from France and Ger many. Dyeing is a costly and delicate process. Even the black feathers must be dyed, for they do not have in their natural state uniform hue. The white feathers are b!eached by chemical pro- cess. After bleaching and dy eing comes steaming. This spreads the bedraggled plumes into some semblance of the graceful form which they are to take on when they have received the finishing touches. Once steamed the feathers are turned over to the girls.
 A group of feather girls at work is a pretty sight. They sit in long rows on each side of a narrow table with great piles of fluffy plumes before them. The table is gay with every color of the rain | bow varied in a dozen shades and tints. Most of the girls are of American birth, and every shop has it's beauties. Many arc below 15 years of age and few are above 25. The tools are simple. The first process is trimming. This is done with small scissors.
 It requires great care, for snip too much may ruin 8 costly plume. From the trimmer the plume goes to the sewer. Single plumes are little used now. Two of equal size are sewed to- gether so that the upper side of one is exposed. The result is stout doub, e plume not easily broken. Curling is the process that brings out the real beauty of the plume. This is done with a small, dull, crooked knife of steel. After curling the plume is fufier than ever, and it's tip droops like the head of a half grown fern. So important is this process that the whole manufacture is sometimes called Heather curling" Feathers that are not suitable for whole plumes are cut in two and made into ''tips;' that is to say, the upper part is sewed on to the lower, so that grace. full, curling tip alone is seen. These tips are punched in threes so as to form the emblem of the Prince of Wales.
 Delicacy of taste and deftness of hand are the qualities necessary to success ir feather curling. Two years will make : clever girl expert. Once learned thu trade is profitable. In the best days ot the business skilful woman could carr from $50 to $70 week in the bus, season. Even now many women mak' from SIS to $25 week.
 From 1880 to 1884 ostrich feather were the height of fashion. It was th' period of large hats, and plumes wer' worn winter and summer. Then over production cheapened them; they be came commonplace and presently un fashionable. For three years the, were out of form, and stuffed birds fancy feathers and what not reigne6 in their stead. Two years ago plume came in again, but this spring they hav' again disappeared, and for the first tim in seventeen years artificial flowers ar fashionable. Of the 5000 girls wh' once curled feathers in New York scarce ly 5000 have found employment thi season. Next fall, however, a reviva of plumes is expected, and the curler who have been working as best the, could at artificial flowers, lace making and the like will return to their oll trade. The few ostrich feathers worl tffis spring are sage green in accordanc with the prevailing fashion, but it is whis pered in the French quarter that browl plumes will wave every where next fall
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