The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-09-16
SHIRTS AND COLLARS.
THE FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON
OF 1S89s9o.


(CoptTiqhtedl
NEW YORK, SEPT. 1.-THE plain white
linen shirt will be the correct .ng this
season as formerly" said a prominent New
York haberdasher to your CORES. 'ondent.
ssIt is not possible to lay down rules for the
proper measurement OF dress bosoms. All
that can be said is that iu is question OF
Individual size and proportions. The plain
linen bosom slightly embroidered will be
preferred TO that of pique. Ia London,
dress shirt busoms will be much broader
this season than ever before, but the style
viii not prevail to a V extent in the .lted
States. Surely. hardly anybody could
wear bosom 1Olll incles wide with pro-
priety, whaleve' Londonsrs may attempt
in that respect"
Some very attractive novelties in shirt
ings are embroidered French four-in-hands,
mainly IF satteen effects, with figures en-
broidered in colors Extrems fashions IN
full ess shirts show fir. ling down the
middle seam Of the bosom.
Although, TO evening dress, good dresers
in Eaglind will ear only one stud stuck in
the middle of the bosom, two or three may
just as we'll be worn, aid doubtless will oe
by Americans of taste. Inasnuch as two
sbuus are u e-eSult anu COIIeCl a. one -
divldual taste may, IN this respect, be al
lowed full latitude of C &c. w Aiie
enamel buttons for shirt and cuffs are still
the style, and no gems II any sort are per-
mlsSaDle on dress occasions
That very important portion of dress,
the collar, exhibits the most ridiculous
break of seaso.', and tho wuo follow
the fashion will wear something differe II
from what has been before seen these hun
bred years. The style cons. SITS of a turn
down collar with band & quarter of an
inch high, worn with a hite neck-tie,
which has ends two aud a quarter inches
wide, over perfectly plain linen Losom.
The points If tue collar with such cut
are nearly vertical, which gives them
iudicrouS effect, especially with persons
having thick necks. The prevale It and
reasonably correc. form of collar, however,
will be the varie y known as the ''stralg It"
or "stand-up," with bending or breaking
of the points, the more comfortable b oxen
point being OF course suitable for bust ,ess
wear. 1t may be observed respecting the
occasions when standing or turn down
collars are the mere appropriate,
that there are no rules, but
only fashions. A stand-up collar is
more dignified than q rundown, and
hence is preferable for dr,ss occasi Jus.
The rule is TO wear a collar, ID a great
social gulf lies between men who wear col
agIisn write, de criblng life in the Loud IL
siums, says tnat there is always hope for Il
young workman " 10 wears q collar; It is a
sign that he is ambitious and will probably
get along, but the collarless man has aban-
doned himself to his condition, and VIII sink
rat. tnan rise.
The "S-awmut'' collar is of the "Spo-
kane' variety, from which it varies in pro-
portions rather than in shape. IL is not so
high the Spokane" and differs from il
IN having IN front spacing Of one inc B.
Its lines are particularly becoming to the
large scarts now in vog ie. The Edge
moor" combines wide spacing with small
points, The latter beng just large enough
to break the other Ines and give va 10 "
An Lher style is a tall cola two and
-one-elshth inches high above the front
button hole and aud hve-eightus inc es
IN Inc lack. no edges meet In troat d
are ve.y slightly turned at the top the
whole effect ueing most bee ming when th
collar IS worn by a stylish man, q CT IS
win whom IL is d fay rlte. A novel COM
binatiou Of the sJand-up and turn-down
collar is tho Envoy Ii differs from q
staud-up in beng much lower than usual
IN front, where II Is but one and a quarter
inches hlgh, While at the back it is o 10
and ,hree-Qua ter inches. It's EXTENDED
points give ~. nucA the appeara ce of a
turned WA coAar, bat its nuc greater
hight IL front brings it much higher on the
neck than Is tie case VITA the turl-down
collar. A new turn-1Jwn collar is the
w lnnlpeS." especially adapted for use
VITA big puff sCaTfs, the point beng made
with al am 10 IA wuica permits space for
the scarf beneath the ends. With a scarf
Of thls Kidd 1t IS one Of the SWEETEST Of col
lars.
Gaiink cuffs will be worn during the com.
Ing season. Inese should be irOned fla
and not rolled as stud-cuffs are. Laundries
alwaJ roll the cuffs up is is ha dy FIR
them IN the matter of packages, AID there
fore one mu tiatten out his cuffs after re-
ceipt I. ON the lau dry. The best way
DO this is TO put them between the leave of
heavy book. L putting a link cuff on
don't roll / but bend it, so that it form.
VIII n fastened by the buttos something OF
an oval shape Only two forms of cuff ara
permissible. the square and the round cor
nered.
Now that the negligee shirt is on the
verge of disappearance until anothe
season, it is IN order to say word about
the material OF which ev are hereafter tc
be made. Ap are thy the coming seaso.
will show an important departure from tht
almost exclusive use of flannel shirts fol
this purpose. For a month p st the tend
ency TO other faor .cs has been very pro
nounced, and hannels hereafter will sbar,
the public favor with otter rivals. This
however ,ilO6S not lDulCAte reactlO dCai s
haunes, but me ely that they will not ex
clude other fabri whic constitute yer,
suitable ami att active material for neg
hgee. The new fabrics are Of silk and cot
ton in varl us new Weaves aud new comb
nations. A silk fabric is at best a higl
priced fabric, and this fact limits it to Gus
toners of the better ass. IL IS these Gus
toners, also, to whom the very beautiful
and hoyel cotton shirtings will be confined
The silk wefts in plain weaves and ills
with plain grounds and a great variety @
stripes are ia Ailiar to ALL The newe
effects consist of a variation upon thes
weaves and coloring and of rad
cal departure from them. Elabo at
combination weaves are largely en-
ployed, and jacquard figures are in ger
eral tine basis of u class of goois ich vii
doubtless prove popular. These fabrics pre-
sent Jacquard effects in combination wit
plain and UWIlled weaves.
The cotton goods, known as Oxford {
long cloths, cheyio,s aid Madras cloths, ar
stead ly growi. & in favor, although the
hign price somewl eft restricts their us
The wide complaint That the shrlnkage
flannel caused by washi explains It's pal
tlal suppiantlng by other fabrics.
Fasni N permits varia1 iol of taste wi:
reference to ties as between white al
black, the latter of which may be worn
the theater and at stag dinner parties, b,
never o. any festive occasion wheu lad,