New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-11-24
THE FASHIONS.
WHAT EMBRoIDERERs ARE DOING
NEW JEwELRY-HA1R DRESSING.

NEW JEwELRY-HAIR DRESSING.
There IS nothing dstnctfvely novel in Christmas
needlework or in the many articles of hand.work
which are always prepared In large quantities. at this
season for church fairs and bazalrs. as well as for
home gifts. Conventional designs continue to be
preferred for all embroidery except such pieces as ara
Intended for boudoir toilet use when flower patterns
are allowable and preferred. especially when tho
room furnished in white and gold, in any Of tho
modern French styles so popular for boudor and bed
The centrepiece for dInnertsbles continues to be
favorite bit of embroidery IL IS generally square
OF white linen, from twenty 10 twentysevcn inches
in size. and is worked with border or an Irregular
pattern that covers It 10 within about nine inches Of
the centre. variety Of what known as the
German household stitches used TO embroder these
pieces. These stitches include Il long" and short,
stitch (which is very popular at present.; the OLD
tapestry-stch of grandmoheS' time; knot stitch,
darning- stitch and many Others familiar to needle
workers. There is more outline work used in the
embroidery OF to-day than when the various
schools for the revival of artistic needework' were
first started. Heavy effects In work are now avoided
Although shops show patterns In old oss-sttch
worked in worted a canvas background, artistic
necdleworkers avoid such atrocities. The material
for centre pieces IS the firm butchers linen, which
Is sold at about 81 yard in linen stores. SIX or
linen floss is used for the work which may be pure
white. gold color natural fax color. silk color
and frightened, II the worker fancles WITH thread OF
japanese gold. with the favOfte color Of the season.
pale blush green that bears well the effect Of ard
fetal light. The centrcpece this season is usually
bordered with elaborate cuout design CentTcpiecs
white linen with the pattern stamped and begun ard
the materials for furnishing them range in price from
50 TO - 80 Tea cloths. which are used at afternoon
receptions embroidered I'm scattered pattern ana
edged with hemsitchcd border.
The favorte material of the hour for usef,ii sofa
cushions is coarse. heavy huckaback. which is often
daued in gold color and embroidered in white over
this ground in large conventional pattern. Such
cushion may be laundried and are laced over
the cushion with goldcoored ribbon tied in cluster
al the side. finished more simply with laced cord
and tassels of silk linen floss. In
dia SILKS, Bolton sheetlngs felt and other
materials are also used for cushions by artistic
needleworkers The tea-cosy has become an Inn
porant part of the table furniture of late years IL
is generally made OF silk or plush and embroidered
in some simple conventional way with japanese gold
and silks. The coses sold at shops usually have
notices Worked them. but the best designers
of fancy work use very few notices. as they ina
the possessor tires of any such set patterns
Photograph and calendars are still shown
in India silks. cretonne Chinese grapes, and other
decorative materials. The newest photograph cases
hold one photograph only, and made Of white
linen and painted with tiny flowers
in Empire patterns. such frames are
especially suitable for boudoir or bed
room furnished in the First Empire STYLE with lowered
chintz and gold and enamelled furniture. Charming
little cushions for the toilet tables of these French
rooms are worked in Louis XIV ribbon work." with
galands Of fine roses and myosOtis on rich hued satin
background. made mora simply OF linen-camoric
embroidered with tiny scattered blossoms In natural
colors and edged with full peatngs Of lace Thess
little linen pincushions hardly larger than largo
apple and are usually finished with clusters OF tho
narrowest ribbons at the Sides Louis XIV ribbon
work Is always used the heaviest satin. II Is
especially suitable for boudoir articles II Is also
used for photograph cases covers for SCREENS, sache
and sometimes for infacts coverlets II Is TOO ex-
pensive ever become very common the smallest
cushions, with materials for completing the pattern
already begun, cost 55 Folding photograph screens
may be easily made at home requiring only care and
patience. The pasteboards are purchased at book
binders-one for the back and for the front of each
picture or fold Of the scrpen-for % cents each.
For screen holding three pictures six pieces are
thus needed The India silk or Grape IS stretched
over these pasteboars, which. If the material ID
thin should first be covered with white paper Cars
must be taken 20 leave space between the folds oi
the screen to allow 1t 10 fold. Begin guing the
material the pasteboa at side. using the best
white glue. and continue from one side 10 the Other
A little in examining wcl.covered PHOTOGRAPH
them. Exceedingly beautiful glove and hanikerchef
made OF satin embroidered IN rbbonwork
pale yellow silk and embroidered in pale blue corn.
howers ccnvcriiouazcd into starry heIes and joined
cObweb threads Of gold Pale tintei KID decorated In
various ways and made up WIN dencae siiAs 20
form charming glove and handkerchief cases Iseiui
laundry bags OF white linen. hemStliched ana en-
brodered white old blue. natural colored max, a9
cdgel with an ornamental cord, and finished WIN
tasscls and cord for drawing strings. These bsss,
with the pattern stamped and begun, and with
materials 10 finish, cost % 20.
Artistic iewelry was never more attractive than
now There is a fancy for fine delicate necklaces
Of
ow-necked dresses. French patterns OF heur de Lis,
double bow knots crowns surrounded by TWO hearts
and similar designs encrusted with diamonds and set
with nc3rS rbis and other precious stones In fash
onahe demand Fine enamel work is shown In brooches
in round shane and IN flower pins some OF the most
beautiful OF the latter are eXquiSitely set the
edge OF the enamel with a row OF fine diamonds. The
wonderful rdescent and cOlOred pearls brought nom
Tennessee and Ohio rivers are set In rsinb0w-lhe
pendants In brooches and other pieces. Old mina-
nires Of court beauties and bygone queens arc
are used for pendants. Little arabcsque circles OF
white enamel set with diamonds form dainty brooches.
The changes in the cofure Ike all changes in
decided upon for full dress the hair being built up
In stately fashion with pufis and braids. For tho
street the hair Is worn very low In loose broad
knot Ike figure z, resting az the nape OF the neck,
nape of the neck to the crown OF the head; very
slight bang Is worn on the forehead. Chlldren's nan
is parted, cut so as Just 10 mach the shoulders.
curled at the ends and arranged In mont IN q veH
by the pictures OF Dutch peasant children ana
called the Dutch style. . .,,.,rork m
Thanks are due for Information In irhoo1orS
the Society OF Decorative Art IN ieweiy ,ev barker
b. starr. and In hair-drcssing TO "hnS" 10y