The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-09-02
AMONG SWELL TAIL0RS.
STYLES FOR MEN IN FULL DRESS
AND BUSINESS SUITS.


! Getaways the Current Thing for Busi-
ness ses-Broadcloths Rele-
/ gated to Waters Uniforms-White
silks and Black satins and Highly
Embroidered stuffs for Vests-The
Two Styles for the Swallow Tail
Novelties That Suit All the Varieties
Of Form That Span the Gulf Between
Hercules and Apollo
CCopwfgh;ed1
NEW YORK, Aug 31.-Mascuiine circles
of fashion are beginning 70 be agltated re-
specting the styles which the divinity of
sartorial art has prescribed as the correct
thing TO be donned by the gilded youth dur
ing the coming fall aud winter season. Ere
long autumn will tempert g solar rays with
a touch Of increasing chiIliness, and those
incarnations of elegance which are the
happy result of a combined and harmonious
effort on the part of nature and the tailor,
must perforcs shed the breezy apparel of the
sweltering dog days for the heavier gar
ments adapted TO the season OF fading flow
ers and the sere and yellow leaf. Now is the
accepted time to prepare for the pref .ce of
dom is discharged with a hearter zest
o more profound couscientiousneSs. In
the latest d .grees of fashion the styles will
| be found to be varied and unusually artistic,
and for { is reason must prove wonderfully
adaptive to those innumerable varieties of
form and figure wnicl span the gulf be-
tween Here lies a Apollo. The inviting
prospect renders the favorites of fortunes,
who are BILE ssed with fl shy pocketboooks
more than ever lger for a early inter
view with the tailor. A stroll among the
artists of the avenue and talk with the
sartorial "htterateur," John j. Mitchell.
enables the writer to present sum nary of
this most interesting theme, which may
bear the stamp OF accuracy and authority.
ovERCOATs.
The most popular overcoat for fall or
winter use will be shapely fly front sack
of moderate length, made of light material
with lapsls ~ inches wide and roll 5
inches. The side seams of the back are but
| slightly curved and for persons of average
hight, the length varies from 3612 to 3713
| incnes. The sleeves are moderately large,
though shapely on the inside, and fms led
with a vent and bottom stitching. For
, winter wear. the length ranges for the
average hight from 80 to 40 inches. The
lapels are about "a inches vide, and the
seams of the velvet collar are tapped aid
stitched wide. The fronts to the end
! of collar are faced with plain or
| quilted silk, and the edges piped with vel
vet with single row Of stitching ab ut q
inch back OF it. Tue ample sleeves are fin
| ished with imitation cuffs closed with two
| b Ittons In other respects there is no diff
| ference between the two overcoats, both
| being finished soft as possible, and when
| thrown open, the fronts roll free The iu-
! dicationS are that the box overcoat will be
worn more than usual. 1t would doubtless
come into more general use but r the cir
| cumstance that it is a garment that
| few can becominglv wear becau 9
it is a coat that looks we'll only on those
wac know how to wear it. To do so is "a
| knack that only few possess. 1t may be
! added that the 'boxn is a garment that
| every tailor cannot make with success. If
it is not evidently large aud loose it is not
! what box coat should be, but if t appears
| baggy in the back it is a monstrosity. The
| cape ulster will con inue to be a favorite
and the style m st in favor will be a moder-
atey loose, single breasted sack, about As
! inches long for the average hight, with
cape reaching nearly to the bottom
Of the sleeves, having but little
drapery extending in front to just
back of the crease of the coat and detach-
| able. The collar will be from to inches
wide, and the roll inches deep. The side
| POCKETS will nave wide in o. out flaps, and
| two brea,t pockets will be stitched in. The
fur-lined and trimmed overcoat will be
more in vogue than ever, and will be an
ample sack made OF kersay o. smooth
faced goods in blue or brown, double
breasted with wide sleeves, with raw edges
double stitched, and vita Tapped seams. the
collar will be of the shawl form, about
inches wide at the back, and the cuffs
will be as deep as the Jllar is wide. Sea
otter and the mink will be the most popular
furs for this purp Sc. The inverness"
will be chiefly used II wear over an even
ing dress Def re especially adapted to this
purpose on acco mt of its amplitude, and
the ease with which it can be put on or
taken off. Usually it will be made of
roughisl suiting of modest pattern, though
dark cheviots will be preferred.
1t is to be noted as special features Of oil
coats, that the shoulders are cut moderately
wide, while the slee es average 10 lacnes
at the elbow, and Ia inches at the bottom.
Toe fronts of all coats are made soft to roll
free.
FULL DRESS.
IL may be stated briefly that the materials
used for the court and trousers are softer
and finer tina herstofore; white and deli
cately tinted silks and black satins, richly
aud deliberately embroidered or embossed
will be in great favor for vests; the low
roll silk faced sack, variously designated
the "Cowe," and Tux TO-" and tie dress
sack Will 20 very pO DuldT LOT certain OCcd-
sions where tho stereotyped evening suit
) was once indispensable.
The peaked-iap4i and the shawl-colar
swallow-tall are the only coats proper TO
eve Ing dress, although t Q dress sack is
, correct for stag parties with dies in full
. dress in the billiard rooms and for Informal
S evening visits The waist length for either
style Of swalow-tail should be 1917 inches
!, for the aver sge hight, and the full length
shoulder So inches. The skirts are Mario W
at the bottom, with the corners very
slightly rounded for he peaked-apel d
9 boldly rounde for the shawl-collar style,
: The peaked-lapel is silk faced to the lapel
J seam, and the c,lar of the other style is
silk-covered to the edge.
Whether the vest be of the same material
as the coat or of white silk or black satin.
} it closes with three or four buttons, opens
r to correspond with the coat has a light
: collar, and has the crease curved smartlv at
> the lower part OF the opening. A pleasing
effect is TO have the crease of the vest peep
@ out beyond the ease of the coat, running
parallel with ii to within three inches of the
end OF the collar, where it curves suddenly
to the front
}, Trousers for evening dress are made more
It shapely than for any other style, and have a
' tritle more sp ing. The average size at the
e go is 49, inches, and fro II to ~
Il ches at the bottom. The side seams are
= finished pla n, though a narr ow welt or fat