The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-01-16
BUDGET FOR FAIR ONES.
SOME DAINTY DRESSING MANTLES
For the Boudoir-Pretty Night Dresses
PrettiIy-CoIored and Weli-shaped
RaIny.Day Garments That
Cost But Little.

her undergarments than ever before. The
introduction of new and radically different
fashions in gowning are in u measure
responsible for this as well as the growing
tendency to bestow some thought upon
this subject from a sanitary as well as an
aesthetic standpoint. The chnging effect
sought for in the prevailing styles are pro-
duced quite as much by the shapes and
glove-itting quality of the underwear as
by the addison of the big, shaggy capes of
fur that widen the shou.d ers and empha-
SIZE the long, straight lines Of the skirts.
desire to conform strictly with the styles
now in vogue has prompted ultra fashion
ables to adopt the soft surah or India silk
as the material most suited to their pur-
pose. To the close-ribbed combination
suit OF heavy silk thread for winter wear
is added petticoat of surah silk, an over
one of fine flannel, and for the street
long petticoat of f1annel-lined silk. Then,
since the crusade against the long-busked,
heavily-boned corset has set in, the corset
worn for the street and with house and
tea gowns is nothing more than a corded
waist OF silk or fine satteen buttoned
snugly, but not laced. The bodice of the
evening gown and dinner dress fit trinity
over the usual corset, but one that is made
to order and lends itself easily to every
movement of the wearer. For those who
can dispense with the knitted underwear
are combinations of chemise and netticoat
in soft India silk, profusely trimmed with
patent Nalenciennes lace. These are made
in tight-htting rincesse shape, with ample
width In the skirt portion, obtained by in
sorting an extra breadth of the material
just below the waist line in the back. Pale
lavender is a color that is especially
favored for these, then blues, pinks. old
rose, and black, the last being assumed
only when the rest OF the costume is in
the same somber hue.
Dressing mantles made in circular shape
and trimmed all around the neck and
down either side of the front with cascades
of lace envelop the figure and hide from
view the short night dress during the last
few minutes spent in putting the bedroom
in order for the night. Others less eX-
pensive are OF percale or soft nainsook,
gathered on to pointed yoke of insertion,
and have long Sits in either side for
thrusting the arms through. These are
liked, too, for slipping on over the entire
dress il any change is TO be made in the
arrangement of the hair, and one does not
wish to remove the whole costume. Dress
ing sacks that never cross the threshold of
the boudoir are marvels OF daintiness and
elegance, made with jacket fronts opening
over loose full vests of Grape and having
garnitures OF passementerie in all sorts of
ornate forms. But all these silken affairs
are the choice of very few, many whose
long purses warrant the outlay preferring
garments of sheer null, fine nainsook,
Jones cambria, or the closely-woven long
cloth. The very latest craze transforms
whole pieces of tiny-checked nainsook at
40 cents per yard into lace or embroidery
trimmed drawers and chemises of plain
sacque shape. The wearing qualities are
said to surpass those of the Jones cambria,
while they are far easier to wash. Con-
servatives will not be likely, however, to
turn aside from the beaten track 10 expert
ment in a fabric for years considered
sacred to the utility apron and the infants
long slip, but will continue to buy the old
standard materials and spend the month
OF February in the usual fashion of getting
the necesSaries of the wardrobe into con-
dition for the summer campaign. For
trimming nothing is more generally or
profitably used than lace. Patent valen-
ciennes, fine torchOn, and medici are the
choice, the preference being given 10 the
first for fine null or delicate masalia I'M
derwear, while the others are properly APP
piled to fabric that is not quite so diaphan-
Gus. Outside skirts for evening wear are
gathered TO narrow yOkes and buttOned to
the lower edge OF the corset. The very
thinnest of thin starch gives the desired
I'D, nj cfr,pla r,affiaoof Of IL
nainsook is worn beneath. Most OF the
fullness on these skirts is massed at the
back, and the slight ripple observed below
the waist line of many evening gowns re-
suits from the presence OF a couple of over
tapping ruffies on the petticOat beneath.
Less tucking is used this season on these
petticoats, but the more lace that is gath
cred or pleated about the foot the better.
Night dresses are masses of fluffy lace
and hand-run tucks. One style has a
long, sharply-pointed plastron of embroid-
erv that terminates at the waist and is
fastened with fly at one side The back
is shirred to three-inch yoke at the back
and the loose sleeves are fulled into mar
row band at the wrist. Full ruffies of
wide torchon lace OF cobwebby quality are
around the plastron, fall over the high
collar, and below the wristband. The
WIDE standing collars seen on these night
gowns are a new feature this season, but
they are by no means uncomfortable, as
care is taken to cut them quite low di-
rectly in front. Then broad sailor collars
appear on night dresses of percale that
owe their beauty to fineness of material
and the exquisite drawn work that adorns
them. These are made in plain sack
shape with a row of drawn work on either
side of a wide front plat reaching from
neck to waist. Above the hem OF the
collar is the same needle-work, and on the
broad cuffs that finish the sleeves. Rib
bon bows OF some faint hue are pretty to
draw the gown together at the throat, and
very narrow ribbons in white are stylish
TO adjust more closely the lace yokes and
shoulder-straps of the chemise. Corset
covers are banished from the wardrobes OF
fashionables. The custom of wearing a
black corset for all ordinary occasions and
the production of double-faced dress-lin-
ings first threatened their popularity, and
the fact that first-claSs dressmakers have
for some time past refused to guarantee a
properly fitting dress bodice to the wearer
of one has effectually decided their fate.
Such a variety OF prettily colored and
well-shaped rainy-day garments are now
within the reach of the average pocket
book that matron or maid need no longer
dread jaunt in the fiercest of northeast
ers The choice is so wide that one is
puzzled to decide which shall be favored.
There are dolLlan shapes, closely fitted at