, 1889-10-31
FASHION GLEANINGS.

| Inc season OF turS and warm wraps is
approaching, and many beautiful and
warm garments are on exhibition. In
f,irs, skunk, beaver and blue fox are at
present the favorites, while long wraps
lined with squirrel or minever will be
the ne plus ultra for winter costumes,
says the Young Ladies' Journal.
An elegant garment called the "Esclas.
monde" is of black silk maletasse and
black velvet trimmed with bands of
skunk and black silk pussementerie.
Tho back is cut rcdingote tashion fit.
ting at the waist, and falls in full,
straight plcats at the back; the side
pieces are of black velvet. the fronts OF
maletasse and fall in mantelet lappets,
edged with "A hand of skunk fur, while the
velvet parts are trimmed with a hand
some border of silk passemcnteric. The
neck Is finished with a color OF the fur.
The sleeves are OF velvet, with deep
putting at the shoulders, the rest plain
with "a border of passementerie down the
outer seam and u band of fur at the
wrist II is lined throughout with
quilted silk.
Cloth redingotes are very fashionable,
also short fancy jackets matching the
dress below. Various kinds OF material
are made up into these garments, but
plain cloth with silk Innings and braided
trimmings is considered most correct
Mantles are to he uniformly long this
winter, tight fitting at the back and
loose in front, with long sleeves falling
straight down from the elbow. The first
models for early winter are OF fine,
smooth cloth richly braided or en-
broidercd in spiked patterns.
Velvet is much used, both as trimming
and combined with cloth or silk for
street wraps and indoor dresses, and is
especially used in walking costumes
when braided or embroidered costumes
are not desired.
Beads of all kinds in dress trimmings
are going out of fashion, dull silk pas
sementre being used instead; also thick
silk Gothic guipure is now much in
vogue for the mostelegant toilets. They
are put on in borders down the edges of
panels, skirts and redngotes En-
broidered tiounces are very stylish on
black and colored silk dresses.
WEDDING FINERY.
As it is the season of weddings few
words on bridal finery may not come
amss.
The most fashionable fabrics for bridal
dresses are ivory white satin and lam pas
Satin disappeared last season, heavy
failles and other lusterless goods taking
4
however, but not in the dead white
colors but has the soft creamy ivory
TINT not nearly so trying to the com
pleXion.
Plain satin is used, or q com mbination
Of satin and lace or it is sometimes com
bined with lumpas-a rich brocadc on n
duchess ground in large designs woven
to initiate embroidery 1t is wonderful
production of the loom, said TO excel
anything before manufactured. Many
of these new goods were designed for the
exhibition, and consequently are very
novel and beautiful, and now in the
market.
If one does not care to afford so eN-
pensive material, n silk muslin is beauti-
full and inexpensive, forming most
! dainty trimming used over silk or satin.
Orange blossoms are worn in long
} branch from the shoulder to the waist,
as the Princess Louise wore them, or
! clustered high on the left OF the corsage
also in u half wreath under the veil.
, A travelling dress made for bride re.
/ Gently was OF handsome beaver colored
cloth richly embroidered; bodice jacket
: and skirt arc all trimmed with Beaver
fur; the bodice has Killed frillings OF
deep green silk, a knot of green ribbon
, at the side; there Is muft to match
, with ribbons of the same color and the
same fur, and Il more stylish combina-
tion were hardly possible than this cos
tune presents; II is to he worn with a
felt bonnet the shade of the cloth, with
. a roll of beaver around the brim, and
3 dark green velvet trimmings
The son of the lord mayor of London
, was married few days since, and his
I bride, Miss Ascroft, wore a gown with
bodice and train of the richest silver bro
I cade over Il petticoat of ivory duchosse
3 satin, veilcd with silk muslin; and the
left side fell an exquisite chatelaine o
, orage blossoms, reaching TO the edge o
| the skirt; the bodice, which was made
- in zouave style, had high medicis col
, lar, pufied sleeves of silk muslin, with
I oversleeves OF silver brocade, cut ir
vandyke points; the long lutte veil wa:
t held in place by orange blossoms. The
, bridesmaids wore white striped silk
gauze dresses over white satin petticoats
with yellow silk sashes draped in the
style of the empire; folded bodiccs witt
full sleeves, and vests and collars of vel
low silk.
The train bearer tiny 3-year-olc
niece OF the bride, was dressed in
Z picturesque costume of white sunchinl
: silk, made in the medieval style, quit,
: loose over white satin, shocked at tn,
neck and wrists with yellow; sleeves
, puffed, white silk shoes and stockings
0 Felt hats of enormous proportions
= loaded with birds and feathers. and ben
@ into any becoming shape to suit tn
. style of face below it; capotes renal,
!, quite small, they are made of pleate,
S velvet or brocade and set quite clos
= over the head, while the hair falls il
0 coils and plaits at the back.
, Many felt hats are excessively fiat an,
t broad brimmed, simply trimmed witt
i from the toy Of crown to the brim.
r In bonnets the ascanio capote is yer,
G pretty and generally becoming. Low
hollow crown and border of huted silk
i II fiat bow of black velvet OH the to-
8 continued into short strings in front
n One model is ofcardinalr ed silk trimme,
G with black lace, and tiny red an,
: black humming birds.
r THE HAIR.
o The hair is being worn quite low agail
n and even when ooiled high ON the head
v fringe or cluster of curls fall at the back
J, Avery pretty style for one. who ha
II head coil down the back ending Il
y one or two short curls at the napt Q
O neck.
h There is nothing that aids in prevent
II ing grey hair so much as thorough
@ brushing night and morning and ex
II losing the head to the direct rays of tn
y Gun for an hour every day.
n Ones general health has much to d
h with the beauty and luxuriance Of tn
II hair. Falling hair can be arrested /
II treated in time. Strict cleanliness c
o the scalp first of all Is, necessary, wash
Z ing with CASTLE soap and water at lcas
l. weekly, and drying by holding the hea
" in strong sunlight or by the fire, so tha
If the heat reddens the skin. 90
% At night apply oil of lavender freel
IS or lime juice and giycerine or dress
r ing made of one.half pint of sweet o
IA and six fluid Onncea of Limo wnta