Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-05-18
Written fer THE EVENING STAR.
AIDING wOMAN,S CHARMS.
How to Keep Cool and Comfortable
During the Heated Term.


During the Heated Term.
WHAT KIND OF UyDERGARMENTs SHOULD BE
woss-rHE STYLES IN coRsErs AND UNDER
wEAE-DREssISG LIGHT AND KEEPING CLEAN
CARE OF THE SKIN AND COMPLEXION.
A centennial summer ia predicted by wise
ones who remember the general broil at Phila-
delphia in &c. II is warm enough now to take
saving interest in light underclothes. II de-
ponds on how people dress and how they eat
whether they suffer from hot summers not.
A very luxury of comfort is shown in the
underwear Of the season, beginning with the
hand-knit silk jerseys in delicate shades of
azure, cream, gobelin, lavender and nile greens
TO suit the toilet, for the undervest shows
through the delicate bengalines. LANES and
veilings of the dress. These pretty silk vests,
with deep pointed fronts and squares Of guipure
crochet, are worn over the corset which. to suit
the compact style of corsage. is next the skin
or over a gauze vest to keep the corset steeis
from rustlng BY perspiration. The silk slip OF
jersey fts like glove over the short lace
stays, taking the place of the cambria chemise.
CoRsETs
are reduced to a minimum. and comfort dawns
for their wearers who reduce their embon-
point by knitted webs and bands which stretch
10 support the DUST ana niDS VIII lew OF HO
bones. The Greek corset worn with the re-
camier dress Is nothing more than a broad
band of scanned knitting III Lisle thread
which holds the figure in shape like the classic
ceinture. The nursing corset with knit front
prevents the ruin of stays and good dresses in
the nursery. These knit corsets are exceed
ingly cool and easy fitting. Between you and
me. / should not wish to inquire how long
fashionable girl will wear 50 French corset
without sending il to the cleaners. for washing
know. sDOlls its nprfact set and French
cleaning IS expensive. With the smooth. slim
French polonaise the slenderest amount of
closely fitting underwear is imperative, but
with a directoire dress one slips on a long
chemise OF white India washing silk, whose
lower lace and ruffes serve as the first skirt
Fullness about the hips is forbidden, and the
long opera stocking of silk or thread. reaching
nearly TO the hip, does away with other than
the short silk cambria drawers, mostly lace
frills and insertion.
SILK UNDERWEAR AS AN ECONOMY.
Ready-made silk underwear in white and
tints is found in quantity in every shop of con-
sequence at prices from 50 for chemise and
g. for a nightgown. They are simply made in
fine cluster tucks, with feather stitching be-
tween and on the collars and cuffs Ladies say
they wear the silk as an economy. for it can be
washed in a hand-basin with a teaspoonful of
ammonia In the water, well rinsed. wrung in a
towel not to fray the silk, shaken to take the
wrinkles out. and dried to put on next morn
ing. Half the women at hotels wash their own
silk jerseys and slips in this way, and any fine
day you can see the lace kerchiefs drying
against the glass in the windows of the most
fashionable hotels after their owners have
washed them in the toilet basin, unwilling to
trust them to laundresses. 1t is singu-
lar how often laundress has a neigh
Dor who keeps a calf a puppy with
an appetite for eating up fine lace handker-
chiefs and underwear. And then the silk
things are so much healthier if worn without
ironing, women say. Clara Kellogg, Emma
Thursby and Emma Abbott, it is said, never
have their linen, fannels or silks ironed be-
cause it disturbs the electrical state of the fab
nc next the skin. Silk nightgowns are worn
by rheumatic people, and some go so far as to
sleep on feather beds in silk ticking sheets and
coverlet, to get the full benefit of the electric
action.
WOMEN OF MODERATE TASTES.
however, are content with the jersey wear Of
balbriggan thread. in extra length which does
away with the chemise, except for occasions, to
the great relief of the family laundry The
beauty OF this jersey wear is that it can be
washed IN i've minutes at night. and one may
have the luxury of absolutely fresh clothes
every morning, which make the discomforts
OF summer quite bearable. The secret of keep
ing cool is dressing light and keeping clean.
Women, a rule. do not emulate the rich
bachelors at the Windsor, who change their
shirts three to five times day in summer, but
no one Is refined who can go without change
OF clean clothes daily, with the mercury at So.
SKIRTS OF VARIOUS STYLES.
An improvement in corsets is the rubber
cord lacing. an eighth of an inch thick, which
renders the back more plant and easy to the
figure. The rubber lacing lasts well. unless
one perspires very much, the acids of perspi-
ration always attacking rubber. The little
quilted skirts of silk Grape fiounced with lace,
with a white MORE bow ON one knee, are
kept for the seaside, where the fair wearers
must guard against cramp and rheumatism
but for town the hght-striped silk and wool
flannel skirt is worn with long black surah
pettlcoat hounced with Spanish lace or real
guiPure, which Is not so extravagant as it
seems, considering laundry bills for white
skirts. Gray linen skirts trimmed with torchon
or gray hand-knit lace are very serviceable
and there are new mohair fannels in gray
stripes from which the dust can be beaten
which are desirable for travelling. Skirts Of
honeycomb linen crash are very cool clean and
durable. and make the dress set well without
starch or springs. This material is destined to
become very popular for skirts and travelling
dresses. as well as for portieres and lounge
covers for summer. When every breadth of
wooden stuff or carpeting smells unutterably in
warm weather, the cool linen, which resists
dust and SOIL is most grateful 10 the senses
and linen will soon become the only furnishing
tOlerable.
BED LINEN.
Linen sheets are simply necessity for sick
ness anu summer When they secure refreshing
sleep by their GOODNESS. Considering that they
outlast four pairs at least of cotton one can
hardly object to the cost of full width union
linen at 40 cents yard, or the hemstitched
sheets OF pure linen at 80 and SIS the pair.
Plain hemstitched pillow-eases of full size ready
hundred are S1-5O pair and upward and
this bed linen Is of good standard quality and
very well made. Embroidered sheets with
daisies worked in linen floss over the Quarter
yard OF overlap are 80 pair and upward
Toilet covers IN cutwork and Irish point or en-
proldered IN the charming clusters of clematis
or hydrangeas, which are fayorite designs a
little hne yellow floss introduced with the effect
OF gold thread, are s12 to SIS. These also come
An old rose, hlac and pale blue embroideries.
NOVELTIES II FABRICS.
Fine French Bingham robes are embroidered
In guipure patterns or the French flower fes-
toons, in white and shaded tints of the old
pink. heliotrope, dark and light blues and
maize color, which are the choice in washing
materials. They cost from SO to SIS. French
summer dimity Is an old fabric like corded
lawn with tiniest sprigs delicately fecking the
white ground Embroidered piques for chill
dren's frocks and ladies' morning dresses show
the hight French welt, which does not sbrink .
and soft finish from so cents TO 81 yard'
Fancy plques with tiny dots and cluster dots in
color or white woven dots are rs cents
The white Brighton cutaway jackets worn at
EnQllsl seaside IA la A.