Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-12-14

ScrlDe II, especially Nneu EcmSmOeIluS
that every atom of shore and
in volcanic fires, than in the old simile Of a
vast cinder heap where the huger Stag has
continually rolled to the outer edges into
the sea, endlessly forming broadening
base as the finer siftings continued adding
to the height of the perfect cone above.
Nothing could be more interesting than a
study of the seaward exposures Of Pico's
base from an open boat. The northwestern
headlands are extraordinary and impressive.
For IRON 200 to 800 feet above the shore i'm
meDse layers or strata of dark lava show
edges as clean and plain as new-laid wall.
They are each evidence of separate over
flow of lava from the volcano above. These
come seuarely in places to the waters edge
like huge backwaters of masonry. Again
they are crumbled and broken or blended
as If by torrents of lava, and beyond such
phenomena as these, there are always ragged
lava crags jutting from the sea showing
where the molten masses have seethed and
cooled.
WORN AWAY By OLD ATLANTIC.
Again, for long reaches, these precipitous
strata, where the coast has received the full
force Of the Atlantic's poundings, have been
worn into arches, and have carved out pill
lars and fashioned buttresses, until for hun
dreds of feet in height, as though some
earthquake rent had divided them and cast
one portion beneath the waves, were the
most curious and fanciful representations Of
ruins of vast once-hidden temples. Nor is
this more curious than the view from your
boat of the sides of Pico almost to the clouds
from this grandly picturesque base. 1t
seems to the eye as though the entire sur
face of the mountain was covered with net
-zfT IN sfc 1or
the surface of some black ounces cap had
been finely wrought In delicate threads of
GuipuTe. lace. This strange threading is
where the once famous Pico vineyards were.
There is not a single atom of substance de-
serving the name of vegetable soil from base
to peak of Pico; but years ago, in these
myriads of little walled compartments rising
above each other like the seats at a thester,
the vines grew lush and green from the
black stones and scoria, until no vineyards
in Tuscany produced finer grapes or fur
nished prettier scenes, and q, 900 casks of
wine were annually sent to Fayal for ex-
portation. But the blight came, the vines
were totally destroyed, and though now
their culture is again slightly reviving, for
a quarter of a century the dry little lava
pockets have added to the dark, dreary
barrenness of the mountain sides.
The little town of Madelena ct the island
landing is quaint old nest of sloth and
somnolence. But these island folk are
handsome, beaming with good nature, and
the fact that the stranger comes to Pico,
makes every soul with whom he comes in
contact a radiant companion and friend.
So you arrange for your guides and supplies
for the mountain ascent for but trifle of
money. These guides will wear sandals
and have much trouble with their feet.
Most strangers bring strong, heavy-soled
shoes. But have learned something about
Notwithstanding all tourists should
know.
BIG BOOTS JUST THE THING.
Always be provided with an honestly
made pair of boots. Have the tops reach
nearly to the knees. Wear them under your
tramping trowsers. And always have the
heavy soles well spiked with iron nails
You may not be able to cavort about like
stage shepherdesses. But you will be able
TO hump along quietly and reach the place
YOU started for while your over-nice COM
panions and picturesque guides are limping
painfully behind, or tarrying IN the clouds
beneath, to remove sections Of glaciers from
under their heels or knife-like cinders from
between their bleeding toes. That was the
of my guides before we had
climbed five hours, and we were compelled
to halt at midday at no greater elevation
than 8, 900 feet.
Here we remained for three hours, with
out single glimpse of scenery. A light,
misty cloud apparently enveloped the entire
mountain. But we pushed on, after much
entreaty with my guides when / had re-
vealed my determination to reach the peak
and remain there for the night Every step
was now insecure; not dangerous, but upon
rla opd ,vriffv oindars -
break from under the feet alarmingly. Fall
ing often from this sort of footing, or trip
ping oftener in the stunted heather, we finally
reached the very top. Nothing was to be
seen but streak of cinders to our right and
left, and, as the miststiIl enveloped Us, what
appeared to be the level surface of some
measureless immensity at our feet. The hot
air rose before us suffoeatingly. The damp
mist swirled behind us drearily. We had no
more than time to grope about and hunt
pockety hollow against the outer warm rim
of the crater, dispose ourselves hastily for
the night and crunch little food from our
haversscks, when the dark fell upon us pal
pably like the flap of some majestic wing.
My guides dare not move, through their
fears. In five minutes 1 was
never so soundly asleep. So far as know,
it was as comfortable night there at the
burg in '63, or in Chatahoochie's death
flaming forests in "a.
A STRANGE, WEIRD STIFFNESS.
When 1 awoke, the stars, glowing with
those wondrous fashings and pulsations OF
the stars in tropical skies, were looking
squarely into my eyes. For a little there
was stiffness as profound as the eternal ST.
lences. This was broken by two tremen-
dous snorings. My guides were safe from
Pico witches and warlocks now. But
lying thus, there came strange sense
of isolation, loneliness, insecurity, dan
ger. This was intensified into posi-
tive dread by a singular tremulousness
of the very lava bed where rested. You
will feel something like it at the top of tail
spires. even wondered if arose might
not from the very fascination of it all whirl |
and plunge down there 5000 feet into the |
Fayal channel. A host of such faneiful |
possessed me, until dimming of |
the stars, a fading and paling of their luster, |
diverted my thoughts. Then they seemed, |
one by one, to disappear. Their black back |
ground changed to flmy gray; that to pearlv |
lavender; that to Nile-green blue. Yes, it |
was the glorious dawnl was hardly upon |
my feet before the vermilions were in the |
east, while could still see above the western |
horizon the undimmed stars, SO great was |
the height whereon 1 stood. At nv verv |
feet was the vast crater nearly 1000 feet in |
its walls in places from 200 |
to 300 feet high, while from the dark seams |
of its perfectly level floor the steam and |
smoke OF the slumbering volcano eurled up
ward as peacefully as from winter country
side ehimneys.
GRAEDEsT OF CYCLoRAMAs.
One cannot count time when sole think |
ing possessor of such a height and scene; |
but at last the hideous fascination of Pico's |
crater wore away, and turned upon the
grandest cyclorams my own eyes ever be-
held. Sea and horizon were blended save
,rh.ra che cuu lka a maiaefir yloha of G.