Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-12-07

The lunching places of the city cannot really
be called indigenous, for they are by no means
of a sort that is found nowhere else, nor did
they originate here, but it can easily be held
that they were called INTO the field and given a
peculiar tone by the proximity of the depart
Inents and the adjustment of all business to the
hours of departmental business. Besides the
regular restaurants there are several kinds of
establishments wherein a hungry man can get
a meal quickly and cheaply. He does not care
to spend more than fifteen minutes or % cents
on his lunch. and he soon discovers, in his ex-
perimenting, the place where he can make the
most digestible and palatable combination on
the least money. Thus il is that find lunch
rooms of a certain class patronized by the same
people day after day with scarcely change,
and now and then a transient.
One can get a lunch for five cents-not a
very elaborate affair, to be sure, but enough
to entitle it to place in the category of what
some people would call ''cold snacks." 1t is
not often on the other hand. that the luncher
pays more than quarter for his bill of fare.
This man Is an epicure; he lives high. He has
a comparatively unlimited menu from which
to cheeseman's, soups, pies, liquids, solids,
an assortment of good things that makes the
eyes of the hungry clerk sparkle. quarter
lunch is justified to the top notch in the stick.
In these rooms they have small tables for four,
castors containing pepper, vinegar, salt and
catsup, damp folded napkins, and knives and
forks. 1t is the luxury of lunching. You
stroll in at noon and are fortunate
enough to find seat. All is confusion Col
ored men, holding high above their heads
trays that contain an appalling mass of orders,
fly hither and thither occasionally tripping and
causing chaos and profanity. You sit patiently
for five minutes and at last give your order to
one of these restless individuals. You would
like, say, a bowl of beef soup, cup of coffee, a
slice of bread or so and piece of mince pie.
That costs you dime. Then you can get some
extras. such as bit OF beefsteak to eat after
your soup, or chop, or perhaps dish Of fried
potatoes That costs you from ten to fifteen
cents more. There is a long list of possible
ties to choose from and the room is pervaded
with an odor of all sorts of cooking. You are
apt to be q triie startled, if you are a
newcomer into these fields of aristocratic
lunching, when the waiter suddenly appears
over your shoulder. and, without warning,
sings out: Vegetable or oyster soup, mince OF
apple pie, tea, coffee or milk. What do you
want?' Under such circumstances the only
thing to do is to keep cool, think of what you
really prefer and order that. Don't let the
waiter bluff you into ordering the articles which
he emphasizes, for then you are most likely to
leave with sorrowing stomach. When you
have finally finished your lunch-it takes about
twenty minutes to order it, wait for it and eat
it-you leave the premises, not forgetting to
take your hat from the rack where il you are
ar habitue, you hung il when you entered, or
to pay the cashier the amount indicated on O
check which the waiter deity LAYS on your
plate. face down, when he brings your order
1t is, of course, possible to slip by the guard al
the door, in a rush, without paying, but 1t does
not pay as you are liable to be spotted the
next time you come and then it will be uncom-
Portable. In these places one can obtain a very
filling quality OF lunch for dime, consisting
OF soup. pie coffee and bread and butter Ii
does not take long to eat unless the soup is hot
but il is often rather long coming.