New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-08-04
THE FASHIONS.
HINTS FOR THE AUTUMN.

HINTS FOR THE AUTUMN
The first woolens imported for early autumn wes
are lightweight camclshars and cashmeres. Those
goods to be bound in duh rich cOlors Ike dark
OdIOse or laurel red in the greens OF last
ing in blue, serpentine hues AMI in the gray green
reseda colors aud in yellow greens like Cappes
color called this condor from the pumage ot
The hdeOus South American bird, Is shown in several
shades, ranging from pale tint. almost light
ecrl to the deepest metallic copper hue. Rustred
colors imported this year yandyke red and arc
especially beautiful in velvet and rich goods like thosa
used I'm the famous portraits of the Flemish painter.
The most noteworthy feature Of the materials
and styles Is the tendency shown everywhere to
eon gated lengtbwlse effects. The prevailing styles
thus far exhibited simpli6eaiion Of the DrectOre.
emitting its wearsOme huge revers cravats and wings
like side pieces. and eXaggerang the severity OF its
general cut. The fulness of the shoulder is retained
I'm the sleeve, but otherwise most of the sleeves for
walking dresses are plain cOatsleeves moderately close.
The leg o-muton and other full sleeves WILL no doubt
remain popular for morning neglgae wear and for
dresses home and dinner costumes. Panel enees of
different kinds leading feature Of nearN all
designs Scarf effects also promise to be popular
and for this purpose importers recommend the echars
Nth n smooth bodice scarf Of figured
goods about eighteen inches wide is then put around
the neck, shirred in place at tha
shoulder seams and draped over thd
front of the bodice either sde held close al ths
waisne in clusters Of stirring, and left to fan plainly
on either side to the foot of the skirt Hand@"nea
effects in gowns which we're so popular several seasons
ago. are revived this for simple dresses Shieh
are made with blouses and overlapping short pointed
anron drapery over a plain skirt which Is bordered
on the edge with the handkerchief border and madd
so as TO form a hollow box pea In the centre OF ma
front breadth up either side Of which the bolder
extends.
Contrasts Of two cOlors are no longer con''ueeS
elegant In wool and there are only lie" dresses
imported with trimmings OF the same tone oil eoior.
Black velvet Is considered the most elegant contra
with all cOlOrs whether brown. blue or red shades
Nearly all the panels shown for combination WIN
plain woods of various hues are made up Oh na'A
velvet striped or brocaded, on scllienne or gms'
grained background in hugo stripe, varying irOn
twelve 10 eighteen inches in width, set In wool souha
harnonzlng with the wool ii Is used With. Ihus
dark yandyke red camelshar ,, mate up WIN a wide
panel on the left side, composed merely oil suc@
cesslon of lines Of black velvet Of widths varying nom
a mere line to a stripe eight inches Wide, on d req
| sIn.ah background set into wool These paheh ara
! occasionally imported IN medley OF coior' IN ou
German tapestry stitch patterns Of birds ana
noweIs.
The thick Ion 2 haired cameshairs so popular some
| Seasons ago and revived last year. are now being
| freely imported for dresses for midwinteF' Ihesa
! new goods are exqustcly soft and light in weight
! though thick and enough 10 resist the 20"
nj siberian winter and Will be welcomed by deHcad
women who find they are unable ID enauls
the weight Of heavy gown mads
| of faced CLOTH Some large block designs III
these camelshars are shown in which the blocks 40
figured with graduated balls. This material iofms
| the apron front panel of the dress ana tue ls'
| mander is Of plain goods To haim0nze Win me
color of the block which may be Suede coor on whe.
old rose pearl gray, or any stylish arrangement os
| ,l.n laIpa
rough. soft wool, which are cross barred 10 '~eN'
inch blocks with suede on dull geen white on black
/ and other combinations
DAINTY beauiui gowns OF cashmere are no" III
serted with trimmings of embroidery III Nsf"'s
conventional patterns entirely unlike the tonaers VI
embroidery used few years ago In all 'ss.s NV
the embroidery is wrought al intervals on dinee'
palts of the gown above The hens, when ave onea
of cloth or material In contrast. Very lule en-
b,oide,y is done IN metal but metallic coors IN SIX
are used somewhat freely in connection Win "seN
velvet broeades and black silh embroidery r"P'
for dresses Of old rose, Vandyie red or oi oie@s
| blue the new blue more intense ihah navy anu
duIer than. old time Mazarn, are fe'l"eh "ni>"'1
at the bottom with a band or hem OF sesi>Ain =.
black astrakhan about six inches VIDE whlel Is psi
down by figures of embroidery wrought III De"'
bIack saddlers silk with the addition of few hfeah'
of metal or metallic col0rd slk. Ano'her o'si""
and graceful embroidery for the potSh VI ",''
.1tr,. :. from nine TO twelve inches wide ana j.
/ commented with narrow Hch-wide ribbon OF black
oros grain with plain edge, seSed on the goods IN
cuyng psttern like garland and running through
the embroidery some OF the ualhN pa'' ie'"
,,csn belionope AMI old pink cashmeres for dressy
wear are oinamented with panelllke designs OF
black spanish lace the figures appqued on the WOOL
| hv lines of black chenille or metal. Frett er even
,bon these are the transparent figures cut ION
LACK creme lsse and sewe1 deflly on the goods Oh
any of these pale delicate shades popular for ies
/ onvus and house some exquisite wooliens
speclally imported for fine neggcfs for tea gowns
! are embroidered in Tiny mountaineering patterns
of needework with tiny butteicups, my
osotis marglIertes aud other simple flowers
BuT lavender, cream white. old blue antique gre'n
and other shades of cashmere are thus shown VITA
| others embroidered In line designs with wheat cans
and leaves worked I'm sell color aud gold or silver
metal Bronze or copper shades of brown are es-
peciay pretty trimmed with sealshln f0f otns
browns black FUR Will probably be used IN irlmmnS
The condor cOl0rs are TOO pOnOuncel Tor Wooi, s
/ Will chiefly bc used accessory trimmings ~ bHslsa
duIl shades In millinery In uli evening dress sna
wide license in the US OF c3i1r = s"sss ago ars
introduced IN panel stripes Ia some ol the new kOot
There also many panels MAJ arr ms r,,n ~ Xix
! brucasled striped auh Stimulating ilhes Oh 'sN'
| ribbon -, ,,. 800 r.ylved
and are extensively shown IN line hand wpngh, 49,
OF The heavier makes like Irish points Dealers ~ 49,
are confident that Win tps IsIGr ~ 9ar f ihs csns
season line. hand made lace VIII return ID iss'~'
aNle favor 49, Inv. ,ros, in wraps are long and
,,,nia asd cor winter nr wiz be- more eNtfnsNerS.
"sGd II nossile Than heretofore Mafalasse g,,s
~ Wnl'h .o' and heavy Persian figured brocateyss
arr all imported for iheso iols luz ~ n, c,ssrf
! Thanks arc due 10 i@r' '"'' JAM y