Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-06-30
THE HIGH Hat TO GO.
Artistic Milliners Of Paris Decree
That Its Time Has Come.
MARKET VALUE OF LONG HAIR.
The Peculiar Occupation Followed in the
Rural Districts.
1 VERY PRETTY SUMNER CEREMONY
lcoRnrsroNDrNcr OF THE prsrArcH..

| fARlS, June zU.-olng GatleluJan, " "
theater goers, for the pyramid hat has had
its day, at least it seems 80 over here. A
few weeks ago might have compared 1t to
a bushel basket; but now it is nothing more
than dat spring dish covered with sea-
weed. lines of the valley, hawthorn or prim.
roses. This is quite as great revolution as
that which drove the British out of North
America, and little thing known as caprice
was what accomplished this wonder.
Yes, caprice, for when I asked six OF
seven milliners to explain me the reason fol-
the change, no one could reply to my ques-
ton. The fact of the matter is new shape
of hat or bonnet appears without anybody
giving much thought about it, the principal
thing being to vary the fashion so as to
oblige clients to send in fresh orders. A
new model an hour after its appearance will
be proclaimed in rival workshops by ap-
prentices passing through the streets. One
girl who saw it on her way to some lady's
house with bundle relates minutely the
manner in which it was trimmed, and, set
ting to work Immediately, does not leave of
until she has produced fac simile, and the
next day. as if by enchantment, the new hat
is exposed in all windows.
Nothing SO nearly resembles an artist
studio as the shop OF Paris milliner, but
classes Of working girls. First of all comes
the "trottin," child of IL or 13, who runs
all the messages, and whose principal oc-
cupation consists in continually moving
about.
MILLINER'S MAIDS
But she must not be confounded with the
apprentice or even with the girl "au pair"
who no longer takes her meals outside, but
remains in the workroom learning her trade,
sewing on bows, bending and cutting wire,
putting tulle, etc. If intelligent, she passes
rapidly from one stage to another, until at
last salary is allowed, and henceforth she
puts on ruches, although it is only one Of
the first hands or the miIliner herself who
trims and finishes the hat or bonnet. Sal
ary and wages vary, dresser or appreteuse
gets from 80 to 150 francs month, but the
principal workwoman often earns from 2, 500
to 5000 per year, and at the same
time is fed, nor does she work more than
eight or nine hours, although during the
busy season it may last from 9 in the
morning until the same hour at night, de-
ducting, of course, time allowed for meals
ones self in the mirror. for Paris milliners
are coquettish lot and fond Of being well
dressed.
Many have diploma and speak several
languages. These, provided they are pretty,
do not wait long before establishing them
selves on their own account, and should this
dream not be realized, the most ladylike of
the lot become sellers, thus being the me-
dim of intercourse with the clients. The
milliners are numerous class, and new
shops are constantly being opened, but their
existence is often ephemeral. The establish
ments may be classed under those selling by
commission, that 10 to say, not working for
individual purchasers, but for large houses
and for country milliners; the cheap modiste
who sells readymade hats at low prices, and
to increase her capital, leaving to her head
milliner the choice of shapes, trimming, etc.
EXTENSIVE ESTABLISHMENTS.
The grand, or first-class milliners, who are
veritable artists, have commerce more or
less extended. They employ as many as so
workwomen, and each hat bears their mark
and signature. Before choosing a shape
they take into consideration the style of
beauty and the color of hair and complexion
of the purchaser. keeping in mind at the
Partisan lady of bon ton never knows exact
ly what her milliner will send her.
If the hat is pretty, and suits, she is de-
lighted, and not even the prospect of heavy
bill will dampen her joy. The profession de-
mands sure eye, business-like genius, and
talent in selling at a very high price an OBJ
ject in which taste and Imagination have
more value than the real materials The aim
of good milliner is to know how to gain
high price for what is made up of mex
pensive materials. Formerly she had a
serious competitor in young girls who make
hats not only for themselves, but for others,
and it used to be considered part of q good
education for heiresses to be able to know
how to fabricate their headgear without the
help of a professional.
But times are changed. and now instead
of young lady being praised for her handi-
work she is only laughed at ii she does any
thing but little 'scrowshaying" or now and
then bit of tatting.
I went the other morning to the Care de
POuest, or Western Railway station, to see
some friends off for Brest, and while there
commercial traveller called my attention
to number of men taking tickets for
Northern Brittany.
PECULIAR OCCUPATION.
''They are shearers," he said, mot sheep
shearers, but hair shearers, or rather, to
give them their business appellstion, they
are tcoupers.
Yes, they were travelling hair cutters, and
in about six weeks they will bring back q
quantity of tangled hair, fair, chestnut,
black or red, and it will not be very long
before it is transformed into chignons, curls |
and plaits, ready to adorn the noble brow or
we'll shaped head of some grand lady.
Happy those peasants who have white hairs,
because white is ten times more valuable |
than black nowadays, and may say by the
way, that the capillary business is looking |
up again.
A little while ago there was lull in the |
trade which caused some uneasiness among |
those in the business. The native girls Of |
Brittany refused to longer yield their locks |
for 10 francs ahead, and the Auvergnats, |
more greedy at taking bait, had |
a more lucrative market. So |
desperate did the hair cutters become that !
the jalls were applied to, but the prisoners |
persisted in refusing to have their hair cut.
In this grave state of affairs necessity be- |
came the mother of invention. France, |
deprived OF sugar cane, discovered that beets
contained the necessary ingredients for |
sugar. and so, when affairs were at their |
worst, the rag gatherers came forward. |
Thanks to the combings thrown away every |
day no less than hundred pounds weight |
Of hair is found by them on the streets daily,
but if the ehifonnier saved this important
trade he din not become the arbiter of it,
for the ''couper" still continued to flourish, |
and what is better still the arena of his in
vestigations continues to extend, the natives |
Of Piedmont having long since allied them
selves to those of Brittany and Auvergnat.
THE TEMPTING BAIT.