New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-03-31
PARIS FASHIONS.
SPRING ann suMBmR COSTUMES AND BON.
NETS,

deem utAtN"e't
thom spripg and sumTer fashions would % fsiner
surprising The backs and fronts Of dresses are maae
of different stus and represent different Styles tnpo
fore look much az Il tho back Of One dress sho Inc
front Of another had by chance been oinsa passengs
regardless Of tbs fitness OF things The pscAs sun NJ
here 10 the Direotore and Empire styles; tney Mo
long straight and hat and made OF heavy goods.
seb AZ laty,s cloth woolleu sts and SILK hroeAdes
Tho back of tho bodice and panels cut in one pece
are plain ana besides the curve below The WAIST tne
panels arc supported by very little or no eoutnuo'
hut the complications 81 dress fronts MAKE smhnps
for this simplicity. They are thicky covered WIN
embroidery, galIoons, lace, Jet and 1poon, anu ,1o
materials OF which they are made are OF DewhocHns
variety The cut Is not less complicated some pfeees
Jackets and vests more less tiGhthtung some PSF
poptcular folds Of soft sts, framed with enopidery.
draw the folds almost into point near inc snan "
the waist Some ara covered with folds Wnicn auh
crosSwise, these are accompanied by usph'uhs
Aearos which end with the seam under the ann, snd
are made ahortsr than the waist so az % aalow ue
wide belt to show Yokcs Of one material corseiets OF
another Offer another change Almost all these oooces
are adjusted 20 tho waist with wide pointed osiD'
which dive extra length TO tho waist snoTt waists
are already a thing Of the pass; round waists arc
SIN In favor but they are all made longer han las.
season. The fronts Of shirts are made OF less Weignt
material than either back or bodice. and all the tones
and col6rs of the three parts must harmonic nrous
out although they need not DO made OF the same gooos
Skirts hang less straight than they did last season
little looping allowed on one SIDE as prcteAe tut
additional bands Of enbroderies or loops OF rDoons
Tho sleeves are Is complex a the nonx. thoS
are gathered very high tho shoulders and are made
of as many materials the fronts Of the bodce ana
skirt The folds forming the top allow space IN
front for the insertion Of width OF the trimming WIN
which the dress is garnished Tho folds extend oniy
halfway down the upper arm. and the otner par, =
covered with different material to the elbow Belo"
the elbow the sleeve Is either pufed or folded, then
attached 10 the wrist By broad fat band Any Kind
Of ornamented sleeve is admissible. The PLAIN ught.
fitting sleeve IS the only one which is entirely OUT oi
fashion.
All shades of green viii continue to DO in vogue as
they were last year DresSmasers combine seVeraA
shades in the same dress, an duh tones, such az
moss mlgnonette, searweed, and almond Duil
shades OF all coors have the monopoly unpalnted
brick red Gobelin pinks and blues, ana too ferSan
ttnts combined, In plain-colored GOODS wH %
preferred to anything striking or decided any
bright colors employed al all, thoJ arc soieneo
nv having dark transparent stun thrown over tneH'
For instance scarIethgured grenadine covered with
black Is very odd and stylish; 50 Is HSnb oiue
silk strewn with deep pink and red roses, coVcred
with dark dull blue gronadire. II Is saIpnsng now
few entirely black costumes arc worn now. AS IN
former years, they arc left 10 those who are IN
mourning
The new stuYs are varied. but not very novel.
1 i
and large designs Plain benEaline-whieh IL another
name for Irish popnn-is employed extensively m
combinations A Light lady's cloth rs worn IN IAnS
this spring more than cloth has ever Deem oeloro'
yooIlen stuRs always have the monopoly Tor Ordinary
dresses. strlpos alternate, plain and ngurea, arc
| r,xsd With plan goods but plads arc no longer
| 10 be seem In tho market here Apropos OF woonen
| raods A New-York lady told me few days ago thaa
abe psyer saw so much silk and lace worn a. IN france
| that the French didn't seem to know how 70 maAe
| nm sall-woollens dress: they must IN al cases NIX
/ some snk with It.
/ yra,ertsIss said NJ Felix, when consulted him on
| The subtest 81 don't think one has ever ccme our
- my house woollen suis generally hard LOOKING
| 70 the eye heavy and hot seeming even tor "nHh
A uooIlen skirt can mover be made to fal gracefuy,
! hke q silk one; cashmere, nuns Vcuing, serses SUI
| cloth arc only admirable with combinations OF shh
might can the silk arrangements the frenchy pasS
| =, :. dr.sa "A for lace-I mean the imitation, for
ladies' have now rolegateA al their real iscc 70 nor
,,,,nlszair. cannot 40 without &C; cmhroder'cs cam
not replacs n they must be- combined with sney hee
the softening influence Of Il a. voolien gooos heea
| the softsning and Frightening up OF SILK besAe,
| 40 What Won will lace skirt Is the most srSeoii
-.oyrr.ni,nent 10 any kind Of rk drapsrea or long
go, and bodice without BIT Of lace around
,ho throat down tho 'front.' the wrists is hafu ana
| r1ost GENERALLY unbecoming Lace to dress Is whSs
white nlmy clouds to the sky it soiSenS oi0s''
| v4ves n variety, and makes II poeucu' 49,,
| outer garments this season, have no ipeern0uas
length; they either reach TO the snSe VI nS
ar are made so short only to cover me
FATTY has revived pelerines; probably with VleW
| a. .or,tort for travelling and for convenlcht CRY"
Iatop among the cuosities Of the coming EApossou
| 7, Is tne a change In wraps was MADE 'nose "ior
have been worn for tho last tew years must an.
hcen modelled after straiuace@' I0en ueH
| a. a.ross the shoulders and arms msde moveneh'
rple
ao.hI curve Of the waist, they are made very shor'
"a arc convenient 10 carry over the arm OF 70 thfvW
over n po,onaise Mono Of them are mane IN o,AeA'
| al must match the goods or the eolor oi 'ho :, =,
| The tight hitting yoke IS not made deep en"usA -
10 tho movements Of tho arm, and IL Is cut ous
w 49,. Or material Ike tho dress, and covered
Zen .ss.rornieric let or embroderfes short, soy
s.'.cn Is aaded 10 that aud the tabs which gstnsn
| 49, -. .rn gathered from the mock and tan Ueio"
az ra,st Tho palmer pelerines ,thosc lnSue ~
o.r,~r stntfs are equally Short and are alnOS' a.,
ornamonsed with q hood, lined VITA some 'O'O-'~
SILK ..ro
IN. ,.yusnts arc queer and intricate in make
.ha~ cover up the figure Ike dress In iac" " no'
ney 49, "a, he worn over q plain silk under
~, ana undarHaist The fancy ones tor uaVeinhS o.
80 q, thIek figured foulard amply KatheEea IN Sao
hack To shape tho back these eathozs are l1a psso
folds up and down from neck 10 vast ~ -
nalm sleeveS are full and high on TIE snOuoS's, ..
widen as they reach the forearm IL. ss.a e-
Ia.boa ON the forearm TO tho elbow; in nss sAso az
other tIKht sleeve h adjusted inside In nom, aese
rarments are fashioned very much hSe Wleppen
Gathered on high nsckband, they tau 70 "Os1 $500
fastened loosely with pointed belt cord anu $685.
| or rbbous lust below the waist. Great esto suVui.
IA an that these wraps fall Just below the cage o.
sho sKrt not any part of the dress must DO allowed
n show. Tho fancy long garments OF lace or seena
dno called msntesn arc very ornate they arc GOV.
cred with much more trimming than they n4a Ina.
summer and fall handsome one Just urouSae o ~"
Of the workroom Is Of scarlet grensane,
ds,h,ua hsraldlo designs this 10 covered entirely
uItb clear black erenadinA The back Is made usos
atting and s OnAmented with delicate designs o.
uOht tet. studded here and there with red peadlng
these ornaments fall IN innumerabie long strings doSr
the gathered back Of the skirt The wide sleeve seems
70 DO the principal feature Of tho gsrmen1' - oskn
MN ON The shoulder falls IN folds down pert OF the