Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1889-09-04
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
A distinguishing feature of new materi-
ais, is the broad combination breadth
brought out for the front of skirts, together
with lesser borderings for corsage, sleeves
and other parts of the skirt, sometimes in
the way of panels and foot concentrations.
The two latter at times, however, are dis
pensed with, but the front breadth re-
mains. with corresponding touches on the
waist, and as may be supposed, these adj
ditions vary in no small degree as to rich
ness. Much that is striking and novel ap-
pears, and prominent among them are
tapestry patterns which run from extremely
large floral designs, to small buds and
sprays. The least expensive are all wool
like the remainder of the costume, but as
an enhancement, the more costly attIac-
lions of silk, velvet, velours and even
plush, are brought forward and rise III the
latter styles to an Incompatible beauty
Not a few of the higher class combination
fronts are set in a frame work of plush or
velvet, after the manner Of
PICTURES
and the designs within are brought out with
proportionate effectiveness. Haudsomest
among them are leaves and flowers done in
black velvet on grounds in novel shades of
copper, or rouge, (red g0ld) ceIadOn (bluish
green) purplish red, or dahlia, and new
rust color called Tour Eifiel, after the Eiffel
Tower, and this may be expected to have a
great run and>displace the reddish browns
seen hitherto. The plain fabric which
forms the body of the costume, corresponds
of course with these new grounds, and with
l. Oh iur hxTf hn
rich black velvet figures that with thick
pile rise quite out of their surroundings
They seem embossed and key note is
given Furthermore to what will be leading
idea-that of black on colors, particularly
in the way of garniture. This of course is
not novel, but bids fair to be quite as
much in favor as if newly presented TO
fashionables. Where the velvet or plush
border is placed around combination fronts
it is continued of course in more delicate
proportion for panels and borders, since
uniformity demands it.
OTHER WOODS
of soft texture and new c9lors, show borders
done in black mohair that with it's inherent
shine, gives quite contrast. Some imi-
tate the ripples of MORE, others are in
straight lines like rows of braid, or again
there are floral patterns in variety of s'ze,
which at paratively moderate cost, are
very stylish. Cloth costumes are to be
decorated with black braid put on in new
patterns, chief among them being the
Tour Eifel, and as mag be imagined, they
rise from a base, to long, tapering points
quite distance up the skirt. Other col
ored cloth dresses are woven with black
borders Stimulating lows of braid or may be
trimmed with the new escurial passemen-
terie which although showing various col
ors, has always black for the foundation
Often only one color is added and is in
subordination to its black support, but
even where oriental mixtures are brought
forward, the element of black is conspicu-
Gus. Foot and other borders of fur will be
seen on cloth, very early in the season,
such idea being in accordance with the
wearing of fur shoulder capes at watering
places, in conjunction with the thinnest OF
summer fabrics. Continued examination
of Lord 6 Taylor's importations shows
stylish woods adorned with borders OF
rough surface; black woods embellished in
the various ways described above, but in
black, while the beauties of
BRocADEs
placed on the market. A great impetus il
given this class of goods by the reflex in
huence of the Paris Exposition where the
display of silks and ribbons is astonishing
even to those accustomed to the exquisite
productions of the Frenchman's fertile
brain. Faille or armure silks appear with
brocaded fronts, panels and borders in ex-
quisite tapestry. Oriental and other pat
terms of leaves, grasses, stalks, wreaths OF
bouquets with fluttering ribbons, anc
choice is given among those that cover the
surface closely or other designs that allow
the armure or faille surface to remain visi
BILE. Winter failles are of heavy weigh
and show reps that give sufficiently hand
some support to artistic portrayals; tn;
armures being Of much softer texture. l
is now quite certain that
MARGUERITE DRESSES
will faithfully this winter, repeat the cos
tunes worn by Goethe's unhappy heroine
even to the chatelaine and bag, and tn,
skirt slightly lifted on one side above
lower skirt. At present the idea is con-
fined to cloth, but being established, who
can foresee the end2 Accounts from Paril
say that many new fall dresses show az
upper skirt slightly Topped over lower
and it is asserted that Fifteenth Century
dresses will repeat the idea of an overskirt
of quite different color from the one below
Styles of making are now indeed, in a
tranistory state. People are firing of the
short basque with slight hustle and steel al
the back; Directoire coats have been sc
oft repeated that they grow hackneyed
poetical Empire dresses can hardly be given
up and some predict may be carried yet to
farther extremes: there is no small conflict
of thought and the wisest can hardly as
yet foresee which school will come off win
ner. Several will bid for popularity, and
each attaining partial success, the result
may be more gratifying than if a stereo-
typed mode Of dress came into vogue.
SHOULDER CAPEs
Of cloth are to be very popular during the
first fall days and now at watering places,
are seen frequently. Different coiored
cloths are preferable to black, and while
some are round, others show long front
ends. The newest long cloak initiates as
closely as possible those worn by Ursuline
nuns and is named after them. The
wearer is completely enve'oped and even
the hood and girdle will be seen. Some
will show borders in keeping with cos
TUNES; others will follow the fancy for
braiding and others again will be rather
pronounced in all over patterns. Soft
cloth is the chosen material.
RosALIND MAY.
They were climbing up the mountain