Telegram-herald., 1889-10-07

Fashions FsSOrs.
Unmitigated fatness az the back Is
striking feature OF the costumes just
received from abroad.
The neN- carmelite woods have silk
woven borders which closely resemble
'.ensingtor embroidery.
French washing cheyiot IS a new ma
terial, which is particularly designed
for utility gowns and childrens cos
TUNES
Stylish seaside costumes for the first
cool days are made OF silver gray faced
cloth. The trimmings are shaded gray
or magnolia white arabesquos, or silver
galloons.
Genuine green acorns in their tiny
cups, and surrounded by shining dark
green oak leaves. appear upon some of
the large Directoire hats for early au-
tumn wear.
The newest Diroetoire capes are very
full. They are cut round, the small
centre az the top fitting the neck, and
falling thence II folds around tho
shoulders.
Black watered silk skirts and bodices,
with draperies OF Venetian silk net
will be worn during the autumn, the
high bodices OF the net over Vshaped
ones of moire.
A high. wired collar and small hood
are effective additions TO seal plush
mantles, and similar collars Of plush or
fur arc very stylish upon Directoire
| capes Of cloth.
The newest silk blouses for neglige
wear are handsome tucked models of
| crepe and taffetas silk, which TT the
| figure as closely as dress bodice, yet
have the easy effect of the blouse.
Costumes of laurel green crepaline
for early autumn wear are made up in
| Directoire style, with garnitures OF
| Persian arabesques which show exquis-
ite intermixtures of brilliant colors.
Orange and copper-colored trimmings
are the fancy of the hour in London and
! Paris for diaphanous black toilets, and
a great deal Of ribbon, both wide and
narrow, is used in many fanciful ways.
/ The refinement which distinguishes
the new woolens is also charac teristic
of the new colors, which are mostly
half-shades of green, gray, blue or terra
Gotta. and exquisite tints of fawn and
brown.
Some OF the new silken fabrics for
demi-dress uses show designs OF four
o'clocks, dewberry, eglantine. rosemary,
iris and honeysuckle blossoms, and are
most effective when made up in Empire
styles.
Autumn brides wear travelling dresses
Of Indiana cloth, glace mohair. Turkish
melton, bordered English serge or finely
woven French camels hair. They are
mostly made up over silk skirts, and
trimmed with ornaments and bands of
silk cord.
A decided attempt is being made to
lengthen the skirts of street costumes.
It is hoped that the modistes will cry it
down. as it is an untidy and burden
some fashion, and not at all conducive TO
the health or good nature of the
wearers.
Owing 70 the continued popularity Of
the blouse, belts are necessary adjunc ts
Of the toilet. Some Of The soft leathern
belts are very tasteful, and there are
some very pretty ones of silk or fine
silk stockinette, with silver clasps, and
also OF white or pale gray kid, with
gold and silver clasps.
Fashion has decreed that ladies in
London's best society must appear at
afternoon teas, lunches, kettledrums
and other afternoon entertainments
with arms bare, as well as in the even
a ~
and no bracelets viii be worn, but the
fingers viii glitter with costly rings.
An attempt IS being made to intro
duce three-quarter length coats, and
Louis Quinze coats OF cloth or velvet
are shown. These are fitted to tho
waist, and the fronts slope away 10
show an elaborate vest. also with re-
vers and Incroyable cravat. These gar
ments are embroidered all over in clab-
crate patterns.
Short wraps will be worn the coming
Winter with drcssy street costumes.
Tho models shown arc in cape and man
tilla shapes, and cloth, shot velvet and
seal plush are the materials employed.
Many OF these garments are mere
shoulder capes at tho back, not quite
reaching the waistline, the fronts being
extended 20 the foot OF the skirt and
formed OF breadth Of the material
folded into three or four large plaits.
no other trimming being required.
Autumn tea gowns are modelled after
the style Of the Egyptian ahaya, and
arc made of open-werk Hindu cloth,
with long, flowing sleeve and smtroid-
cred vokes. They open over pettcoats
81 silk which are aTlred with Indian
devices In rich coiors. scattered over
pale-hued grounds. They are confined
loosely at tho waist with girIlos of silk
cords. ard slashinfs 40 tle side % tho
skirt show lining OF brilliant kgyptian
red
The princosse gown viii BE- ia high
favor during tho Fal FOR dressY house
wear The favorite model has he back
in smooth fitting princesss breadtas,
tie fronts being cat Of at the waist
line with q fall-gsthcred Vest 81 surah
or China sllk. snd a sash ~ the same
edged with fringe and knotted az tho
left side The anderskirt is laid IN
medium sized pla!fs. which are briar-
stitched with silk to depth Of half a
yard.
For don't care, dull, tired feeling.
impoverished b.o0d, duil pains n back
] A hnaI Iauta--l-.- Il. IL .---.-. -.