New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-01-06
THE FASHIONS.
WHAT THE SPRING STYLES ARE TO BE.


mer show styles which would seem 10 be ultra In their
Innovations had we not already become famillarzed
with tho general make Of the DircctoIre dress As
con pared with the fashions of last spring tie new
styles arc almost eccentric. All drapcry Il dispensed
with. The dresses cnging In effect the sides.
usually finished with gathered front breadth. the
enumeration Of which IL distinctive feature OF the
new gown. The skirt Is hnishod with fall. straight
beadths at the back. which fall slight toarpurc.
tho only concession tho past Bodces arc usually
continued from the skirt In unbroksn lines. making
g~h In prncesse effect, like the D,rectoire Dolonaise
dresses now worn or they short. round Empire
waists ginlled with Empire eirdlcs. which fall In
icbg sash ends side Of the skirt. The new
sleeve Is considerably shorter than any which has
previously been worn. The French plates show
sleeves for tho summer reaching few inches below
the elbow but quito full, like RE sleeve worn. or
In coat shape. Importers Of gloves have already
prepared for this short sleeve and the gloves for late
spiing, and for street during the summer. arc
eight buttons In length and In mousauctare style.
Collars remain high. and there shirred gorgc's
introduced at tho throat below the collar In many Of
tho new French plates.
The first woollens imported for early spring are
plain and figured sergcs 10 be made into combination
gowns. Tho figured serges are genuine brche
woollens and examples OF tho fine but laborious
brOt ade work I'm In France before Jacquard demon
strated that he could do what Napoleon sncerinGly
called tho impossible. Tho work OF the Jacquard
loom produces tho fat suDken broc ade with which
We arc all familiar, but broche work Is raised Ike
embroidery nom the fabric and produces with
artistic fidelity In light and shade the leaf. Gower
or frut Of the pattern used. These realistic flower
patterns, copied from old French worsteds. alc
feature Of the woollens. Like the present epoch
OF fashion, they genuine protest against tho
conventonallzed designs introduced By the English
school. and indicate revival In dress and furniture
Of period IN French history and IL must be said
tina; this reflects credit the taste of the presen;
tine The great mass Of people. however. find some
thibg inexpressibly satisfactory I'm realistic
designs in strong contrasts and Hight
coors and In tho glitter Of unscl and
gems. Tho new woocns are noteworthy for tho us,
Of light shades and pronounced coloFs
than any have previously socn Mode cnlors,
suede colors, pale sllvery grays, grayish Empire
green's and, above ALL the blue green called wort
dragon; rosewood browns, new coppcry rod shades,
and deep blue almost pronounced as Mazarin
blue of the eoors The dragon green
and the rosewood browns promise 10 BE- especially
popular Tho new blue shades into erayish cadet
color, and is almost black In its darkest shade.
The brocadcd woollens rule are borlered Goods,
with border varying from quarter to thrce-duar-
tcrs Of a yard in depth on tho lower edge. and an
eighth of yard IN depth on the upper edge; as tho
serge for,yelgh inches wide. 1t is sill vide enough
the narrow Doluer Is torn on vi
ordinary skirt In few the entire underskirt
is formed of the bordered goods the border extending
entirely around the bottom but in most cases tie
front breadth tabler, Is formed OF the borlered
goods when only yard and quarter is used Goods
are also imported In tabers, ard and quarter
long, the broche work extending across the goods to
form a border at tho side of the tablier
SILK, mobair and wool, and combinations OF SIX
and wool and of mohair and wool, ae used to form
the favored pcture effect of leaf and oNe aid fruit
on woolien fabrics The feur-de-ls, with its long
tcmulous leaf ard lily, forms the deep, haI-ya~
border in white on pale dragongreen ground; aud
pale suedecolorcd scrges figured In slvcry blue
with rushes scJge-grasses and dochfowefs sugg' stei
no doubt by the designs Of South Kensingon EN-
broderies French marguerites and ferns are other
designs. Wild brambe patterns are frequently seen
In these broche woollens. There also Scrscs
rocaied In all the pattern. with largo separate
leaves like raspberry leaves and these figured wooons
are chosen for side panels. being used on either
side for the sleeves and trimming OF dresses otherwise
made Of plain wool The of sleeve of different
material or color from the gown is a feature of the
new French plates, and many sleeveless IA Ike VII
undoubtedly be used during the coming season over
embroidered corsa Ccs cut short at the was. \ few
scrges arc shown with wide ribbon borders OF S ell
lenne acd with realistic designs of fower fruit
or leaf, tho usual border appearing at tho
other side Of the goods
The revival of alpaca, especially OF tho
fine black trantincs in use many
years ago Is fact of the season Black bIiliiantha
was used extensively in Paris last season for Di-
rectoire polonaiscs mads up In combination with
MORE silk or black faile franchise, and there Is little
doubt that for useful dresses such gowns VIII tale
precedence this summer OF cashmeres and softer
woollen goods which havo been made up with SIX
The new mohals thirty six to forty inches Wide
and begin in price at fifty cents yard. Black mo-
An In, from nrlce
exceptionally lustrous brilliantne which will be sold
AT go per yard A fine goods Of excellent quality
Will DO sold at 81 % yard Colored mohairs arc
shown in all shades, In plain, striped and plaided
goods with borders in plaid stripes and hair iine In
shaded effects, constituting the ribbon bands which
are generally called "Empc' by merchants Tho
deep irregular BORDERS in flower effect are labelled
"DrectoiraD fabric OF slken mohar similar
TO the old Japanese silks Is introduced this season, In
all over arabesque brocaded pattern. There arc
many colorcd mohairs with borders in arabesquo pat
tern in medley OF old cashmere colt ~ Borders on
tbcs, mohaIr goods narrower than those Oh tho
wcollen serges and more frequently in the ribbon
effect than tho broche leaf pattern coored mo-
hair with border forty inches wide Will probably
cost about dollar yard, while the broche bordcrcd
scrges will cost rom about "a and upward.
The new ginghams werc never more bewitchingy
pretty than now. The most coquettish style OF
French art has been lavlshed upon men, Ihcy arc
in lighter shades rule, than heretofore, and new
colors and now shades introduced with excellent
effect. They will make such gowns as would hayo
delighted Watcaus shepheidsses The delicate colors
of tho "soft pasen Sevres china that this artist
painted have been reproduced In color by French
manufacturers OF cotton goods. We have the tur-
ouoisc blue the dragon greeu, Du Barry rose and
pale yellow Of tho royal factory reproduced In the
zephyr cottons These coors used ON inch stripes
side by side with stripes of pure white, in plain
goods or lace effect. The patterns Of the striped
chintzes Of the Empire period have suggested many
designs In these zephyr cloths Pale PINK ana binc
are used frequently side By side alternately with lace
STRIPES While lace effects generally Introduced
in white stripes, there ginghsms in market now
wherein the lace effect appears In the cOlJicu STRIPE
A few large pronounced plsids IN rich eoors ARE
shown for entire costumes ,,
plain gngha ans are shown extensively with borders
and stripes which match bOrdercd and striped goods.
A new effect in ginghams with mixed ground Is
nroduced by a whlts thread In the warp OF tho col
orcd cling am This gives the effect OF an intntes!-
mai Stripe Dainty ginghams in inch wide strips
az shown In pale rose with white stripes, edged with