Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-02-24

at KyIemore (great wood) lake and uass, a
sight of the famous Pass OF Salruck, view
OF tbs unique scenery of the Killeries, and
possibly trip to the coast of Clew Bay,
may be had. But my immediate destination
was the weird islands of Arran; and found
that, to reach them without returning across
Connemara to Galway, a most wild, rugged
and entertaining foot journey through the
almost unknown regions of Connaught, with
here and there enjoyment OF wondrous coast
scenery and always the deeper enjoyment of
studies of the quaintest, rudest and most
hospitable Deople in the world, we're to be
nv good fortune.
All the population of Connemara are BIZ
lingual. The ancient Celtic language is
here preserved with the greatest pride; and
it is universally spoken in all home, social
and even business relations, among the
peasantry. English, with a startling brogue,
is the language OF the schools; a necessary,
though bitterly resented "divarsion." The
younger members of the pezsantry are we'll
enough got along with; but some of the old,
old lolk will not tolerate it, at least in a
strangers presence. Many amusing expert
enees OF this kind were had.
ENGLISH INSULTED THEM.
After travelling through the extremely
well cultivated country behind Bunowen
Bay and Slyne Head, the EXTREMIST out
reaching of the Connemara cliffs into the
Atlantic, and the most westerly land in
Europe, applied for and Hospitality re-
ceived a nights housing with a peasant
farmer In the charming lake region between
Toombeola and Roundstone Bay. The mo-
ment the old grandam OF the household set
eyes on me and heard my English-spoken
words she snapped her thin lips together
and climbed into the lott. Pretty soon the
old grand father returning from the noun
tains with armful OF dead branches, also
heard the same aud climbed up after her.
We could hear them up there under the
raiters cooling in their own tongue over their
escape like a pair of ancient doves My
host and his family, much perturbed by
their apparent disrespect, climbed after
them one by one, and argued, protested,
threatened. By and by the brave old pair
climbed down again, stern, silent, awful.
Don't be degradin' av us, avicks;" plead
ed the host of the obdurate pair.
'Hut, tut!--an' yer better in the far-coun-
try words than the prayst himsel, SO We
are!' followed his good wife Indignantly.
"Heugh!' and then voliey in Celtic
would be the response to all their paciica-
tory or delusive attempts,
They bowed, ducked, pulled their fore
locks, grimaced, salaamed, and set about at
piling the peat upon the fire, preparing the
repast, and in all kindly offices OF entertain
ment; but no ingenuity seemed capable of
tempting the stern old souls into admission
Of consciousness OF a language that had no
business in Connemara. But after supper 1
trapped them.
cAPTIvATED BY SONG AED STORY.
No peasant in Ireland will accept COM
pensation for entertainment. But these
simple folk do prize your stories, tales, or
accounts ol the 10 them wondrous activities
OF the marvellous outside world; and II Is
easy TO see what charm the old bocouL hs,
or vagrant beggars and story-tellers,
once brought to the humble fresidrs of
Erin. l sang to them "The Irish RAP
paree" and ''The Harp and the Shamrock
OF Old Ireland" the best / could, which
was good enough to give rapturous delight
here; but l could not vet unloosen the old
couples tongue in English. Then as 1
told them of America, aud the younger brood
grew restive, their ewes glistening with en-
ulative hope to some day reach that earthly
Alden, they almost fell into captivity of
protest For the two old bodies bones were
Irish soil, where they longed to have their
kin remain near. AT last stifred them
wildly with some dreadful Iairy tales 1 had
heard in County Tyrone, and getting the
hero of one, famous drinker, hanging in
the DEVILS clutches over a bottomleSs pit of
fright poteen" piteously appealing to the
Ozark one" to let him drop into the "swate |
dew, / suddenly asked the old dame if the |
poor tortured soul was wrong to thus cry |
out. Her sympathy for the bedeviled |
drunkard overcame her antipathv to the |
hated English. With much fire she snorted: |
''Divil a 'pworthl-divil ha'pworth, |
the poor craythurl" while the old man vail
Rntly sustained her in a little outburst Of |
his own Of "Thrue for We. The poor cray
thGrl Sure it's no sin if ye can't help itl''
A CURIOUS CUSTOM.
An interesting custom of the peasantry
which have frequently observed in differ
eut parts of Ireland, recalls quite a similar
one on the part Of the peasantry of Cuba.
Often in the latter country, after remaining
through the night at the cabin of q sturdy
guajiro, or montero, at your departure, the
head of the household and often his entire
family will insist on accompanying you on
your journey Tor miles, and, finally when |
you insist upon parting, the swarthy group
will stand there in the sun among the
tropic flowers and birds, waving kindly
adios a ter you, and frequently repeating,
Felix viagel-felix viagel Dies Ie a COM
panel" On many occasions when taking
my departure from Irish cabins where /
have passed the night as when l parted
from NV friends behind Bunowen Bav-the
old dame in the loft sleeping peacefully
after her bitter ebullition against the hated
English tongue-the iather and eldest son
would set orth with me. Each would in
sist upon carrying some one of my belong
ings. such as my lunch wallet rubber
poncho. or my stout thorn stick.
Then the way would be made sad bv pro-
testations of how little they had been able
70 do 10 the matter Of entertainment, or
fowery with grotesque legends Of the neigh
borhood. Their warnings against this pit
fall or that, this sordid lnhabitant or that
one, one shebeen or another, and above all
that "kape an aisy eve on the murtherin'
were full of the truest
and concern. And finally at |
parting, what handshaking was there over
and over; what raisings of the voice to the
shrill and pathetic in torrents of friendly
nratory; what Luck 20 wild yezi" and
Gods blessing on yezp' Gust as with the
sunny Cuban's Happy journeyi-God keep
you companyP' only tenderer and truer
here in Ireland); until one must be very
hintv indeed vino does not feel a soitening
brill from heart 70 eve, dimming the land
Scape tor an instant, when you turn and are
alone upon your pleasant way.
STRANGE FOLK.
From Slyne Head to Cloghmore, opposite
The Arran Islands the entire southwestern |