Omaha daily bee., 1889-06-24
OLD ROMAN RUINS In SPAIN .
Scenes of Peculiar Interest to Amer
lean Travellers.
WHERE COLUMBUS is REvERso.
Beautiful Views From the Barbor of
a--Picturesquo Costumes
OF tho Pensants-Delights for
Antiquarian Students.
Relics of Roman Rule.

Il. w. Sherwood, writing from Valencia
to the New York World. Leaving
Paris cold and dreary behind us, we
found ourselves In the Land Of Bios
SONS soon ut Lyons. This long detour
was necessary If we bought Cooks
tickets, which, being a saving OF 40 per
cent, we were glad to do. Besides it is
in this cold, late spring by far the most
agreeable way OF entering Spain. re-
member long ago talking with the poet
Bryant about Spain, which he often
visited. avoid the seacoast and
Madrid when it is cold; go to BARGE
Iona, Tarragona and Valencia first,'
was his wise advice, and j am very glad
to have followed it, for we found the
country a rapture of blossoms. Avignon,
rs stopping place, is something de-
lightful, not only for the Roman re-
and present, as il the ghosts of the old
popes were blowing off their unused in
cense over the hower-laden fields. Pc
trarch and Laura still haunt these gar
dens, Rienzi, last of the tribunes, is
still chained by the leg in yonder mon
astery tower. Avignon is a haunted
town, and has q neat and quaint hotel,
like the Peacock at Matlock. We passed
also a day at Nismes, very fine, then to
The railroad ride from Perpignan,
with the Mediterranean on one side,
the snowy Pyrennees on the other, is
exceedingly enjoyable There we saw
fresh the wonderful CRIMSON clover, in
color like Jaoueminot rose. OF all
natures carpets this is the most beauti
full. Also the yellow lupia and the
white spirea, most elegant OF wild
flowers, and blue flower, which shall
| remain anonymous because l do not
know what it was. l only have the i'm
portant information to give Gou that 1t
was most beautiful, and as blue as
! heaven
| AS blue as if the sky let fall
| A piece of its cerulean wall.
Old stone ruins began to crop out,
| and we were aware that the Phnnicians
and the Romans had been here before
us. The blossomlng trees coquetted
with these old stone walls, and the
peaches blushed against them, as the
Iberian maids may have done when the
| dark eyed conquerors made love to them
with their black eyes. 1t was an eX-
quisite day. What a blessed change
from cold, bleak, rainy Paris, which
was never SO disagreeable as 1t was
| this year.
SIGHTS IN BARCELONA.
Barcelona surprised us with its air OF
| prosperity, movement and grandeur.
Splendid seaport, whore Ferdinand and
| Isabelle came to greet Columbus on his
return from the new world. He stands
| looking over the sea and pointing to
New York--the fine old undismayed
creature, one of the world s heroes. AS
if our hearts were not swelling enough,
as if the lump were not big enough in
the throat, we were surprised to see
some of Uncle Sans sailors riding
| along in an omnibus carrying flag
which looked very familiar, and the
strains of the Star Spangled Banner"
greeted our ears. 1t is an accident
which may happen in any great sea-
port, but it was uncommonly apt just
then. Columbus was being serenaded
by our hearts, our eyes and our bands.
The grand cathedral was, of course, our
first pilgrimage. Here l saw the cru
ciix which Don John, of Austria, car
ried at the prov of his ship at the bat
tie of Lepanto. The image is violently
bent to one side as if to avoid the
| immense height, the stained glass, the
extent of this huge gothic edice pre-
pare us for greater wonders still fur
ther on. If-was first a pagan temple,
then mosque of the Moors, but be-
became a christian temple about 1858,
which seems to be the date of every
thing in Spain.
Barcelona is the only city which I
have seen with the sidewalks in the
middle of the streets-that is to say, the
people have the middle of the street for
broad promenade, while carriages and
street cars run at the side. No one can
imagine how much prettier and more
convenient this is. The ''Rambia,"
with its double row of fine trees shelter
ing this broad promenade, the carriages
and street cars being relegated to the
side, lis one of the prettiest 81 ghts / ever
saw. This is the great vein of the city,
or artery rather. Down it's broad course
runs the bluest blood of the city. The
"Parque" is full of fine trees and flower
ing shrubs. fountains and lakes.
noticed u richly gilt chariot of victory
on top Of an arch Gen. Prim in stone
stands at the entrance. The magnolias
overhang an imposing cascade, and an
avenue OF palmetto palm leads up to the
gateway. A wide and handsome quay
at the foot of the statue of Columbus
darts out into the sea, making lovely
promenade. We drove to the fort Of
Monprich, a fortress OF considerable
strength, which was. however, surprised
and taken by Lord Peterborough in
l705.
The view was magnificent. Not only
the fine city, but the noble harbor, with
its famous memories. lay at our feet.
Barcelona is said to rank as a mercan-
tile port only little lower than Liver
pool and Marseilles. Everywhere in
the churches hang the Saracen's head
in stone, as if Just cut Off. This tribute
to defeated foe shows Of how much i'm
portance he was. They are very inter
esting as bosses and corbels, though
that stare of a recently beheaded man
cannot be called altogether pleasing.
think II had been taken to church in
the cathedral in early youth, l should
have been frightened to death at them.
The capitals in cloister and cathedral
are well worthy of study.
PoNTIUs Pilates BIRTHPLACE.
We left Barcelona with regret to
take delightful journey TO Tarragona
The country about Barcelona is ex-
tremely beautiful, and we bado farewell
to these blood-red fields OF clover,
which reminded us OF Hannibal and