Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-02-09
THE DIAMOND-BACK TERRAPIN.
Something About the Preparation and
Service of this Toothsorne Wand.

Something About the Preparation and
Service of this Toothsorne Wand.
THE DIFFERENT STYLES" OF SERVING r.
WHERE IT COMES rRoM-How IT LIVES AND
THE PROCESS OF GATHERING IT FOB MARKET
POINT WORTH NOTING.
There are hundreds of people who in daily
passing and CHANGING into the shoN-wlndows of
restaurants and dealers in fish and game observe
lot of sleepy, sad-eyed, forlorn-looking affairs
dragging themselves about over one another
perfectly regardless of decorum. but who do not
imagine the intrinsic value Of these uninviting
looking quadrupeds or the gastronomic posi-
bilities they possess. A darkey from the
country was recently heard to exclaim to a
fellow-traveler, lis look here at dis pile oh
mud turkles," while an inland southerner, who
had not jostled great deal against the world
taking in the Inauguration for the first time,
for instance-would doubtless be astounded to
meet the familiar faces of so many gophers
such large ones. and so far away from home.
But there are many, however. who do know
either from experience or creditable informa-
ton. that terrapins conduce to q deucedly
delightful dish. while there are others-and
not timid awkward squad either-whose deli
cately discriminative palates recognize no
dainty compounded from flesh so Supremacy
toothsome as terrapin, and especially terrapin
prepared in true Washington style.
For Washington has a style"
The recently published menu for the COM
ing, inaugural supper includes ''terrapin
cooked in Philadelphia style" and but
few days since a Baltimore con-
temporary reported a "terrapin-test din
ner." to be given by the board OF trustees of
ff1ra for ba To Shor 90
to decide the comparative merits of succulent
mutton and Chesapeake diamond back-the
terrapin to be cooked "Eastern-Shore STYLE
which, from all accounts. seems to be merely a
bob-tail off-shoot of the well-known Mary
land style" 1t NAV make a Washington gas
trometer's heart fairly faint to hear of mutton
associated in a contest with terrapin, but there
are plenty of Marylanders whose creed is that
sheep, fat, plump Southdown. with all its
drawbacks and woody taste, contributes to the
production of the most palatable plate ever
invented.
VARIOUS STYLES OF COOKING TERRAPIN.
The Maryland STYLE" in outline, is to first
place the terrapin alive in moderately hot
water. This enables the skin and claws to be
easily removed, when a second immersion
takes place. The under shell is then taken
away and the gall-bladder, liver. &C., ex-
tracted. After this il is either turned over to
the chafing dish or stewed until thoroughly
cooked, when it is garnished with eggs, cream.
butter, spices, &C., to suit the taste. When
ready for the table it is dashed with fine wine,
which gives it that peculiarly piquant flavor
that goes right to the spot and charms the very
soul of a bon vivant.
The Eastern Shore style" differs from its
foster parent the Maryland STYLE only in the
alleged absence of wine, the proud and stiff
necked inhabitants of the Maryland coast hold
ing that well brought up properly educated
terrapin. like good wine itself. needs no bush
hence that portion of the MARYLAND trimmings
is dispensed with. 'Sllders and snappers and
muskrats," these vain-glorious piscotorial
feasters would say, when the purpose is to
palm them off upon the pretentious and un-
wary, are cooked with some sort of spirits to
disguise the natural flavor of these wild. I'M
savory things, but wine cannot improve the
subtitle flavor of properly prepared diamond
back terrapin from the Chesapeake kinglum
by the sea. The subsidiary basket Of cham
payne, however, rarely fails to appear further
along. though that is regarded as a compli-
mentary adjunct rather than part or parcel of
the scheme.
The philadelphia STYLE is much the same
as that of Maryland and its heir apparent. the
Eastern Shore way, with the exception that
the presence and use of terrapin eggs in the
dressing is insisted upon as necessary to the
contamination Of elevated taste as well as to
the refinement of the culinary art involved
But just how the genuine eggs are to be obtained
Wnen out OF season or announcement Tor the
alternating terrapin to furnish them the rules
and regulations of the style do not set forth.
The chef de cuisine. probably, is supposed to
procure them and no questions asked. and it is
possibly supposition only that he does.
The Washington STYLE" like the Keely
motor is involved in mystery. but unlike the
Kelley moter is a real, tangible thing, and he
who once enjoys the insinuating influences of
an exemplary Washington dish becomes q
patron and devotee from that moment. II is
not to be understood that terrapin cooked in
Washington style" is mysterious in its compo-
sition; such a contingency does not appear. No
ghost of .'sliders" or ''snappers" parade
through a plate of Washington cooked terrapin
or stalk ftfully through the after-midnight
dreams it often entails. The Washington
style" is Of such pronounced type that a
noted New Yorker. as previously mentioned.
passed over Philadelphia. the greatest terrapin
market in the United. States, and the whole
of Maryland, with its numerous WAYS
and means, to get Mr.. Harvey, Of this city, to
furnish a terrapin dinner in that metropolis
Chamberlain, Welcker, Faber-in fact, most of
our noted caterers have each their special ways
of preparing and serving this tempting and
toothsome Wand, which they keep to them
selves-the mystery-and charge accordingly
The patron of the Washington style" terra
pin, however, can take solid comfort in paying
well for what he gets, with the fullest assur-
ance he is getting what he pays for.
OTHER WAYS OF COOKING TERRAPry.
Beyond the pale of ''styles" there are other
ways of cooking terrapin by inhabitants along
the Atlantic coast, said to be really appetizing
aud highly relished by those who have tried il.
Being unable to turn itself over when upon its
back it is inverted before an open fire and COW
cred first with hot ashes and then with live
Goals, and thus literally roasted to death. When
thoroughly warmed 1t is taken out, disembow-
elled and replaced, and when thoroughly done
the lower part is taken of, and it is seasoned
and served in its own shell-the architect of
Its own misfortune, 80 to speak. The colored
people of eastern Maryland havea way of cook
ing it by building fire upon the ground, and
when the spot is well warmed they excavate
a hole. to fit, and into it place the terrapin
bottom upward and cover over with Goals and
cook till done. This is seemingly acompanion-
piece to the ''ash-cake." VIII b they are ex-
tremely fond of, and the two generally go to-
gether. and when cooked to their idea and
stiffy seasoned according to their tastes is re-
garded as beyond compare ana unrivalled ex-
cept perhaps by that reigning delight Of every
colored .countryman's heart, "'possom and
sweet pertaters." The whole principle of cook
ing terrapins alive-lobsters and crabs alike
IL cruel and barbarous, but somehow cultivated
taste declares it to be necessary to obtain q
certain delicacy of favor highly pleasing to the
palate, and OF course fashion must be gratifed
and the cruelty tolerated
WHERE rKRRAPISs CONE From.
Many who see them and some who, while
eating, discuss them with the volubility of o
Taillevant, have no idea where they come from