The sun., 1889-12-08

corner executed In the game way. Panels OF
paler. r.hYed satin showed Of either side hem
the darker" This had the effect Of radiatipe
becoming appearance Of converGence to the
waist There we're exceedingly wide loose
coloredd iissS < rolled and ample berthe Of
this was all around the shoulders, and over It
foil frHl OF the loveliest and melloWest old
Russian net q wlde-meshe material which
hangs exquisitely, is much In favor for girls
ball goWnA This is in silk. 1t is copied In
cotton, but the glossiness and soft hanging
qualities being the great reason OF Its success
the cotton copy ts In no demand except for the
net rSps weo of mSr Ss
ribbon round the hem and graduated ends of
thS each nSas Ride SGHs ally
ishsd with nSrreSy but ample Iouncs, A
with black ,iox FUR, looked. II eo@Sre' excesd-
inRly stylish. That favorite color vleux rose is
GOWNS as Tor SIBERIAN cloth msateS @ eSaRn '"0e0
Fur coats. whether they bo long or short
tightly fitting or loose, are lined. not with
quilted satin. but with the most expensive and
With o reputation for good dressing to keep up
deyotes quite as much time and taste to the
choice OF the lining as OF the coat itself.
Bonnets can hardly be too small or too close
to the hair. In the matter Of hats there is q
wide margin allowed II only the oroyn be fat
match costumes in cloth and FUR are, perhaps
the most approved style OF headgear.
PARIS.
Boas are to be seen both short and long-that
is to say. reaching half way down the skirt to
the hem Of the gown, and made OF variety of
anfa rfa ~ f,,r ali, q Thn
long haired furs and light down-lik plumage
have the preference. Blue. gray. and silver
fox, real or imitation, hold first rank; and next
to them come all kinds Of shaggy, Whitley
brown skins, owing their curious mottled ap-
pearance as much to art as nature. Parisians.
ur bcas S Garen mot to
with fur OF another sort. Sealskin and Astra-
khan are the only skins that can be tolerated as
contrast Muffs are made to match the boas.
Microscopic millinery is tho order OF the day,
and the bonnets look all the smaller that they
are 80 sparingy trimmed. II the bonnets are
over small the hats are often few degrees too
the shoulders, whereas the bonnet is very far
from covering the top of the head. Meeting
capotes face to face che will sometimes appear
10 nave no bonnet at al. the only part OF u
formee dadew dariew nhiSh Oh some
Colored cloaks and coats are decidedly in the
ascendant. Brown. both light and dark. is in
high favor for cloaks. but more decided colors
are, also to be, seen. especially various shades
OF deep red and green, and such lighter tints as
terial to the rest OF the garment are used to
n velvet wfll renovate q last year coat nicely
This form OF sleeve is only one OF many. Vel
brocade. edged round with narrow band OF
fur or feather trimming. Very often an under
pair Of tightly fitting or coat .shaped sleeves is
features in this department Of fashion. An
other is the entire conceament Of the gown.
Coats are frequently made double breasted,
with one side OF the skirt tapping over the
other. Jackets are with open fur collars. show
ing q cloth plastron beneath. or perhaps bor-
dered or hemmed with Astrakhan. and fastened
almost close ting. and the basQues short
SeRlskfn and plush Jackets are most only ad-
e TheF IS gres neS r be se
OF the Persian lamb and the limitations thereof
In woven mohalr. even sealskln holding q seo-
ondary place.
The Empire gown is still fashionable, though
reserved more especially for evening dresses.
Made in soft silk or satin, it is trimmed round
the hem with mbroidery-straight garlands
OF laurel or olive branches executed In gold
and silver. or with Gordon OF roses set close
dark fur or feathered trimming. Velvet four r.
reaux are treated in the same way-imperial
red, bright golden yellow, pistachio and other
threads or hemmed with fur. Often the satin
Empire, skirt serves as a foundation for an
used single. the tuiie double. but In other case
the satin slip Is visible through the Gauze.
For wooen and other gowns worn In the
daytime very pretty style has Just come in.
The bodice is pleated in the centre and the
skirt in a corresponding way. rather closely so.
so as to make the first breadths quito full.
The two are divided by belt. and, though
same pieces, are not so in reality. the pleats Of
thess the eode 81 being much shaGw haP
the breadths Of the skirt being e gathered re- d'I in
separate band, Finally, the skirt is tucked
Inches of the undersfirt. DamasE mask woolens
"Reminiscences patternsnsuit SIS this species Of Of
vet, or ,yeveteen. Belee.colored cloth is made
GOAT In which are sewn several rows Of gold
braid. More simple costumes are composed Of
silk to match. trimmed UP with green, crimson.
or blue velvet, or perhaps Astrakhan.
Some neat twllled colored woollens have ap-
peared. with borderings composed OF several
rows Of laurel or oak garlands woven In black.
These are combined with black moire or black
velvet pettlcoats: The pieats OF the bodice.
TnRg the to c.nls h
may be Of the same material. or recall the col
or and material OF the under skirts For lun-
Parislens, who are wearing rather light coiors
doSnt 81 sSn shados o orope I'D sIaS
Pss s1 bs bsE S S As4afSsh II Sh as
Dressmaking at home-a thing unknown till