The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-02-13
THE FANCIES OF FASHION.
BLACK SILKS CONTINUE POPULAR.
Sleeves OF Contrasting Colors and Materials
Are the Latest Decree in All Manner
of Gowns-Ingenious Combinations
in Various Textures.

both plain and duchesse, pean de soies,
watered and moire silks, and the ever
popular surah are tempting shoppers to
buy both long and short patterns OF these
fabrics for every imaginable purpose. The
watered silks and moires sell less
readily than any of the others, hav-
ing been in vogue so long. Still
many small remnants OF these might be
stylshly applied in the form OF broad
revers and wide collars and cuffs to house
dresses evolved from dark green, blue,
red, or gray street suit that has seen its
best days. Whole sleeves of MORE or
watered silk may be added, as sleeves OF
contrasting colors and materials are the
very latest decree that Paris sends forth
regarding all manner OF gowns and COS
tunes. This edict extends to spring jack
cts also, many Of them having sleeves to
match the velvet collars and revers with
which they are finished. Bargains in
black brocades are common and but few
yards suffice for the long, plain redingote
that may cover up a half-worn skirt OF
black faille or show between its
panels a colored skirt of cloth
about the foot of which are black velvet
vandykes with outstanding points. The
combination of faille and brocade might
be reversed and the three front breadths
of the undeTskirt be made OF the brocade,
while the faille could be employed for the
basque, the three straight breadths that
cover the back of the skirt and for the sash
ends, or two fiat tabs that relieve the Sc
verify of the undraped front. a place
may always be found for a few Yards of
surah, especially in the lighter grades in
tended for summer wear. These are cool,
and besides being durable will shed dust
with surprising promptness. For sum
mer travelling gown nothing can give
equal satisfaction. Then for a short, full,
half-ftting robe to throw 90 in passing
from ones berth in a sleeping car to COM
plete the mornings toilet in the dressing
room nothing could be less conspicuous or
more CONNIE il faut. A garment OF this
kind has been known to emerge from the
compact receSses of a travelling sachel after
DAYS of sec, usiOn, presenting an appear
ance of freshness that gave not the slight
est hint OF its close confinement. Then,
again, surahs make pretty dust cloaks, If a
wool dress is preferred for travelling, and
the coquettish mob cap that now replaces
rides may be made of the same. 4 rem
nant of yard and a quarter will just
cover the small travelling cushion that is an
additional comfort INDUCED in by people
who run about the world a good deal.
An investment in black India and China
silk may be highly recommended, for
these silks will be very much worn dur
ing the coming summer, nothing having
been found to surpass them or any of the
sOft-corded silks for standby" costumes
in handsome wardrobes. Where cOlors
are employed there is an almost limitless
scope TOR ingenious combinations with any
of these black silks. Shot silks, gay
plaided and striped surahs, fancy foulards,
and bengalines are all appropriate to put
with them, and for young women nothing
could be prettier. Then the opportunity
is afforded to use any OF the light-colored
silks that have done duty for evening
gowns and dancing dresses Black bro
cade and black velvet is another combina-
ton that gives chance to use up the best
of an old velvet gown with the aid of few
yards of new brocade or vice versa. In
either case the back of the basque and V
in front may be made of one material, while
the other may be sewed in the under-arm
seams just at the arm holes, and taper to
a point at the waist-line. The sleeves may
match this front piece. Detached orna-
ments OF jet may be set on the shoulders
or down the front and on the sleeves,
while half-girdle OF Jet is at the point of
the waist. The skirt may be in alternate
plaits of the two stuffs. Black India
cashmere with a wrought border of col
| ored palm leaves is elegantly made up
with either plain or brocaded velvet,
while for simpler costumes any of the
black figured woods make handsome red
ingotes over plain skirts OF faille or
armure. Revers of the silk are on the
waists OF these and an additional garni-
ture of black cord passementerie. A
green. gray or dark skirt may also be
worn with a redingote of this material.
| A revival OF the old-time alpaca is a fact
| of the season. 1t is the very some fine,
wiry fabric that rendered such satisfactory
| service for all utility wear some fifteen
! years ago. The fine mohair brilliantine
| represents the better grade of this alpaca,
and dressmakers are already making it up
| in black, especially for house and travel
ing gowns. 1t may be made up in strictly
redingote style and be worn over a skirt
of the same or of heavy lusterless silk.
These new-old goods are anywhere from
thirty-six to forty-six inches wide and be-
gin in price at so cents. The brilliantines
most in use range from 81 to Sl.50, ac-
cording to quality. A particularly
fine piece, rivaling in texture
the woe-inspiring bombazine may be had
| for s. yard. This stuff will not admit of
loopings and pufings, and the directoire
polonaise is the shape into which it is
| properly cut. The broad revers may have
| two or three rows of narrow black,
watered-ribbon on them, and the same on
the pocket-haps and wide cuffs, or many
rows of soutache braid may form the
trimming. The latter is a better trim
ming as experience proves that the wiry,
stiff surface of the mohair soon wears the
ribbon garniture through and through.
The worsted hercules braid is another
suitable trimming that will outlast the
fabric itself. Fewer rows of this is needed,
az it is considerably wider than the
soutache. The front of the waist, pocket
flaps and cuffs must have big buttons on
them. The most fashionable articles for
this purpose being extra large molds COW
cred with the alpaca. Crocheted but
tons may also adorn this garment, but
there is not hall the style about them that
there is in the wool-covered ones. When
the polonaise is worn over an underskirt
OF the same goods the latter has either a
double box plat fanked by three side
plaits in front or has several plaits coming
together. A very handsome model has the