New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-11-17
WOMAN'S CLOAKS.
THE WRAPS OF THE SEASON.

THE WRAPS OF THE SEASON!
The new wraps for winter are long princess coats
haf long wraps and short coats and English jackets
There Is decided effort to reintroduce the two
thirds length' garment 1t is sometimes known-that
Is coat or mantle that reaches two thirds Of the
way down the skirt. This medum-length garment
is extensively shown for carriage wear and for opera
ana other dress occasions but the outside garments
most In favor for young ladies for general wear are
inc long princess coat and the Jacket made Of cloths
entirely plain or Of brocaded cloths When a moro
elaborate garment is needed, close-ftting coat OF
mstaasse. trimmed with Persian lamb. is sometimes
CHOSEN. Tho wraps for elderly ladies are far more
elaborate and are frequently made with half fitting
fronts The materials Of these wraps arc much richer
usually than those used for the closer fitted garments.
trimmings OF black lynx, otter beaver, astrahan and
oher close furs arc more often used than the long
DlacH and brown bear OF last season. which is found
TO be too cumbersome>to wear for trimming, unless
the wearer is exceptionally slight in figure.
Long, halfftting garments of matalasse, whether
IN black or color. usually combined with black
VeVot and made still ornate with trimmings Of
handsome black silk passementeres. in which no Jet
is introduced. narrow edge of pendant balls Of
passementere finishes the edge OF the angel sleeves,
the long hanging Russian sleeves, the loose Russian
oVcr-fronts which still form conspicuous part Of
many garments. handsome long cloak Of chestnut
Drown matalasse, In two or three shades Of color,
was recently made up with black velvet forming the
angel sleeves and vest Braided passementere
formed the trimmings, two lines stripping the long
sleeves. The cloak lined throughout with black
satin Ike most Of the handsome wraps. Colored
Innings are reserved for dress coats and nantes.
very rich cloak of black mataasse and black
plush was braided in lengthwise lines with black silk
braid on the plush. The matalasse formed Russian
sleeves, the special feature OF which consists in their
coming from the middle of the back and soplng
from thence so as to reach low down in front. A
border Of pendant balls edges the sleeve and the
effect given is that of dolman mantle of matalasse
over cloak Of braided plush. This elaboration
OF material feature Of the and IS necessary
70 atone for the severity Of the cut and straight length
wise effects aimed at In all garment.
The Russian coat with its closefting under fronts
and loose mantle overronts is still liked stylish
cloak Of this description recently shown In plain
and Inquired ecru camels hair trimmed with gray fox
The under fronts of the Plain shaggy cancels hair
and the remainder of the garment Of figured csmeps
hair. The trimmings Of gray fox fell either side
In boa. Figured arrowette cloth, shaggy
beaver In dark brown, figured in light tan and other
colos with clusters Of arrows, Is made up into long
princess coats and is often trimmed with narrow
scarh OF brown falle silk extended from the neck to
the bottom on either side Of the 'front.' down either
side of the back and around the sleeve These scars
are lined with ecru silk and the scarf and lining Is
fnnged out nine inches and knotted in clusters at
the ends. A simple, plain princess coat OF black
matalasse finished with Russian collar and cuffs of
black Persian lamb and lined throughout with black
satin may be purchased at $75 at a Trustworthy
merchants, and will 10 found useful garment for
church or reception wear and not too elaborate to
wear on the promenade.
Next In Importance to long garments come coats
and jackets. The prevailing shape for jackets this
season is close fitting at the back and plain IN 'front.'
but fitted snugly AZ they can be without darts
This Jacket is shown In double and single breasted
shape and is made Of rough and smooth beaver, Of
chlnchilla beaver and other cloths. Nearly all the
furnishing houses are now making sealskn coats In
short lengths with astrakhan trimmings, which are
finished with vests Of astrakhan, deliberately orna-
mented with pasSementere IN Persian effect This
ornamentaton of fur not considered at first In
good taste, fur has always been thought sufi-
GENTLY rich material to need no ornament 1t Is
doubtful whether this is more than passing fashion.
English tallors go so far as to put elaborate EN-
broderes and applique figures of cloth and other
furs their sealskin coats
Little French Derby coats Of fine cloth are lined
with satin and finished with astrakhan trimmings.
The back OF the close fitting the front rounded
Jacket edged with astrakhan and made with vest
Of astrakhan partly concealed In the trimmings OF
black passementerle that ornament IT, "Tw0-thlns
lengtho garments are shown in nne blue cloths fitted
the back and trimmed with brown marten and other
flrs The fur forms on these coats band around
the slightly flowing sleeves and collar IN RUSSIAN
shape, which Is Tapped far over on the left SIDE
Other two-thlrds length" garments are NANTES OF
fine mataasse made up with velvet, with elaborate elaborate
trimming OF light hIrs and rich, SNOWY pass 5ehcfleo
for carriage wear. Ths length seems 10 DC a dNorto
for carriage wear as 1t Is iar less cuhOclS mo
than the long wrap. , 4. 81. .oh
Evening wraps are shown III eTeae variety W MI
delicate materials in gold and white IN yeIo"; rh III
ocru, water greens, ruby red and other shades nc
richest evening wraps from Felix this season are IduE
with entire Innings OF pure white eilhne .he D.an
cloaks are handsome velvet silk br0cades Oraeh.ou
with metal outlines and the Trimming denae wid'e oA
the Angora goat fur usually called by iuriiers ar
darin' A handsome evening mantle Oh rlhsat >, ~.
ported this season. is Of olive plush trimmed WIN
fall Of pale gray ostrich feathers and pheasant piIs;
The fronts In military style, VITA Ions, 5h
hanging fronts OF the wrap fall Three points Oh 9"u ,
and Persian embroidery extend nom inc GonsI i ,h
way down the back, and high military c0liat U, Luz
embroidery ornaments the neck aa'IS i,.a
leaves of yellow satin applqued on and edeeu nle
gold cord and rlchcs of yellow ostrich piumes ods
boa Of yellow teathers finishes the neck ana eA'enns
male recently Of white and gold brocade In the paL
tern called rising sum- the huge design III, hcade
sun in metal among cluster 0l ,cnf ~ in
flowers a white satin ground Inc sarhh ite nl,sb
Russian shape and is made partly Vi Wnt , Pnsb
Elaborate ap pique figures Of the prOcaie on w. p,rs
and pendant frlnges of gold cord and passeoh'oi'0
balls const tute the trimming. - , ..n, rat,erna
and I'm light English cloths in neutral colOs. INC h,
English cloth waterprooS really pretty anu nap
none OF the old me hideousness OF the WATERPROOF
Thanks are due to Arnold, Constable Co. James
NcCreery a. Co., Jaeckel 81 Co., and heolsrh
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