Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-03-05


iui patterns round the bottom OF the skirt. bor-
oes between which and the small designs upon
the upper part OF the skirt there h no abrupt
transition. but . gradual lessening until the
lines are lost In the soft blending Of shades or
figures In the kolds.
The gathered bodice win undoubtedly be
more fashionable than ever; but the surplice
waist which had u ell It's own way last year,
VIII divide the honors with the fiuted folds OF
the Grecian bodies this season. aud the full
sleeves be partly superseded by the flowing and
loose open sleeve Of thirty years ago. There
Is talk OF reviving the spencer" Of fifty years
ago, and indeed the shocked and gathered
oodices are close approach to it. A spencer Of
black silk witha ruffie Of lace over white or
hshs muslin skirt, accompanied by large black
emp hat and plumes, would look well upon a
moderately tall and slender Young American
girl aud It Is to be hoped some Of them will
tryit.
AN INAUGURAL BALL GOWN.
One OF the gowns to be worn at the inaugpra-
ton ball IL Q dead leaf velvet. the skirt Just
lifted. revealing q petticoat Of dafYodil satin,
edged with moss ruching. The agrafe
which holds the folds is Of Genoese workman
ship, and confines girdle of the same style and
period 1sixteenth century,. The bodice is cut
square, With rather narrow outstanding collar,
and the sleeves are to. the elbow; the front of
the bodice and the sleeves draped, instead of
ruffed, with old venetian lace. A magnificent
necklace Of opals and diamonds will be worn
with this dress.
A dress prepared for young girl is of the
palest pink silk tulle over the most delicate
shell-pink silk. There are three tulle skirts and
Interior paintings to the silk one, but no ex-
terior sign Of tuck or ruffle or any accessory to
break the perfection of line or the charm of
color which Is as exquisite as the first flush of
dawn. The low bodice is Of the silk, the veil
Ing folds of tulle following the lines back and
hfrf thnr alr ztt,x f,.fah
and 10 jewels will be worn. only gloves that
reach nearly to the top of the lovely arms. and
are. II possible, of paler and more delicate tint
than the dress. Opposed to these two costumes
Is dress or almost barbaric splendor. 1t is a
clear red. brocaded with gold; real gold. not
gold colored silk, although silk is mixed with
gold threads. 1t opens In front upon gold net
ting over white satin, and the ornaments are
shaded ostrich feathers in gold tints, In clusters
EMPIRE STYLES.
There is great deal of talk about ''empre"
styles; but the French empire styles were at
first very simple. They were copies from Greek
models, and were considered a republican revolt
from the puffs and powder, the high head
dresses and other eXtravagances Of Marie An
toinettes reign. Everything modern and that
could possibly be deemed superfluous was gotten
rid of, and the remainder was nothing If not
antique. Drawers, in those days, had not been
Invented for wOmen wooden underwear-hand
knit or wOven-did not exist (for women and
the principal and warmest undergarment was a
closeiy-gored cambria pettic0at. Stockings
were so fine and flmy, as worn by fashionable
women. that they could be passed through a
finger ring; and Madame Tallien is said to have
created sensation by appearing without any
hose at all. In sandalled slippers with gilded
toes. The sandaled slippers are within
the memory OF many not very old women,
and are already reappearing In bronze and satin,
hnf nath npxr haI b .afksl ,t'
petticoats of that day, SO advertised by dealers
OF the period. remains to be seen.
EARLY IN THE CENTURY
the author of "Reminiscences Of a Septuage-
marian" describes, " the dress of the ladies in
Paris in the month Of November, 1902, as con-
sisting of gown very decollette. extremely
short wasted. with apparently only one light
garment under 1t. This gown was held up so
as to display one leg, when it was not cut so
short az to display both feet and ankles; and a
thin scarf or shawl usually hung over one
shoulder. Curls hung on each side of the face,
and the face was greasy with huile antique"
IL is little curious that at the same time
began. very much a. now. a war Of extermina-
ton CT pa.at and powder. and new gospel of
no old ag5. r' wrinkles" but a prolonged
life. all beauty I'D pleasure for women. These
things are NOT - be achieved. as now, however,
by robust exercises, by walking and fresh air,
ny "otCA anu Ndiiouc
other compounds.
white muslin dress Of those times was made
with straight skirt, edged by worked
hounce. The narrow body like low baby
waist). was composed entirely OF work" A
puff OF cambria formed the sleeves and over this
was an epaulet.e Of needlework The street
adornment with this dress was a spencer of
green silk, with full sleeves and full waist set in
belt. In lieu Of the spencer a rather small
and half high pelerine might have been worn,
composed wholly Of work" and crossed very
the bust.
BONNETs
Pretty striped black and gold gauze. and also
the white and gold, are taking the place of lace
for bonnets. Some lovely little bonnets have
been made of them for dressy wear over gold
colOred silk. and trimmed with black or white
marabout feathers tipped with gold. The new
bonnets all take the toque form. are small and
sit close to the head. They are also less raised
by the ladder-like trimmings than last year.
This modification will better suit the average
woman, but it will be likely to proceed to the
other extreme, and bring back the unbecoming
all round, wreaths. the fiat crowns the roses set
like dwarf cacti without foliage, and making
stiff frame for the face. The bonnet is very
important part ofthe costume. IL should har-
monte with and crown the whole.
HEAD DRESS AND ARRANGEMENT OF THE HAIR.
certain unexaggerated height tc the head
dress adds distinction to outdoor attire. This
Is seen In the dress of men. Absurd in many
ways as is the silk hat, man must wear it If
he wishes to look dressed" The low ''knocked-
in felt and the cloth cap NAV be more comfort
able, and the straw hat Is admissible upon all
occasions in summer; but as imparting the
touch Of dignity required by formal occasion,
the silk hat Ia az essential as the cooked" hat
was formerly to a high functionary.
This is q point also to be considered in the
of the hair 1t is not now neces-
sary for all women to wear it high or all low
Some wear 1t one way and some another, and
those to whom both styles are becoming wear
it differently at different times. As rule. the
effect 10 more youthful when it IL arranged low
In q coil or braids. and this method suits the
simple Josephine style OF dress, but the vene-
tian Pompadour. and Marie Antoinette modes
with their elaborate characterization, demand
height and certain aytiheiality in the construc-
ton of the head dress to give the final touch Of
elegance.
At present, however, we are not called upon
to adopt any extreme. We can adapt the high
or low designs TO dress or individuality. Still,
as before remarked, the average woman will do
well to preserve certain effect Of moderate
height In her bonnet and way Of wearing her
hair, and avoid the low, fat all-'round peasant
style, which generally lack grace, variety and
distinction, and only suit the fresh, fair tints
and contour Of youth, which can stand any
thing. JENNY JUNE
Cruel Separation.
From Popular Science Monthly
When Chinese girl is married she must
wait four months before etiquette allows her to
pay her first visit to her mother, but after this
in tory call sha NAV 90 IN tho boy,a ,f bor