Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1889-05-11
WHAT ARE TRUFFLESi
SOMETHING ABOUT THE MusH.
ROOMS UNDERGROUND COUSIN.


N~mber os the Fungi Faniiy That
Tickle. thc Palate Of the Epicurs
They Grow and Are ''Csusht''--Attempss
at Cultivation UnsuccessfaI.
Probably few Of the thousands Of peo-
pie who have enjoyed these culinary
dainties are aware Of the manner In
which they grow or the circumstances In
which they are obtained. Others, again,
who have perchancc never encountered
truilles or met with them In the bill Of
fare or upon tae menu Of tho dinner
tabIc-for they are not sufficiently plenti-
ful TO be a popular article Of diet-wil!
have but a confused idea as to what de-
nomination they belong, such confusion
being heightened by reason Of the term
catching" OF hunting" being used to
denote the means by which they are OBJ
tanned. II Is, therefore. not unnecessary
to explain that trufIics are underground
fungi, those which are the subject Of
commerce belonging to the genus .'tuber,"
whilst others which bear the name are
of related though different genera. In
England they were formerly known as
"trubbes." both names hcing doubtless
derived from the Latin terra tuber
They ore somewhat oblong or globose,
and vary in weight from couple of
ounces to several pounds, according to
the species. locality and the circum-
stances in which they are grown. They
vary somewhat in color; some are white,
but generally they are of black or dark
brown color, and of rough exterior,
the skin being thickly covered with wart-
like protuberances When cut through
with u knife, they present different APP
pearance from that of any other fungus.
Veins traverse the mass in all directions,
giving marbled character that is dis
tinctiye feature of the trufile. When
closely examined, minute stcs will he
noticed in the veins. These contain
spores, which are covered witt, spines.
DOGS as TIUFFLE HUNTERS.
Not much is known of the early de-
velopment of the trutlle, owing princi-
pally TO its popularity of growing under
ground, where it is free from observa-
ton; but when found in the mature
state, in which they are used for food,
they are altogether free from attach
mcnt, either TO the ground or 10 any
other body. They are commonly, if not
invariably, found in woods, the pres
ence of oak or beech trees appearing to
favor their growth. From this fact il
has been inferred that they are Of para
sitical nature, and that ut some stag. of
their existence they derive their nutri-
ment from the roots of trees. Light
calcareo,s soils are those which most
frequently produce truflies, and in Eng
land they are chiefly obtained from
the hill districts and chalky grounds
of Hants and Willis. Those, however,
which chiefly supply the English mar
kets are brought from France or Algiers.
Truflles emit fragrant odof both dur
ing their growth and after they are
gathered. 1t ia this characteristic which
favors their acquisition, as, being buried
out of sight. some other faculty has to
be employed to discover their presence.
For this purpose the keen sense of smell
in tho dog IL taken advantage of, and
dogs are systematically trained for the
purpose of 'truflle hunting" This SER
vice is sometimes performed by pigs on
the Continent. The dogs are trained by
the device of hiding n trutlle and re-
warding the dog each time he discovers
its place of concealment. BY degrees
the dog soon learns to search in the
woods, attracted by the perfume, and
scratches at the spot under which re-
poses the hidden fungus He is then re-
warded by u piece of bread, and the
t,,,flt., 10 ,araf,,llu oxri,,,,,,a1 Th.,
catching" or "hunting" of truiiles is
regular means of employment for men
and dogs in those districts in which the
fungi exist in sufficient quantities TO rem
der the work remunerative.
HOW TO PREPARE THEM.
Tho attempts at artificial reproduction
or cultivation of the truiile have not been
successful, as mycelium or spawn, fom
which other fungi (such as mlishrooms)
are readily produced, has not yet Leen
obtained. Success has occasionally at
tended the sprinkling of suitable ground
with water in which the fresh peel OF
tlullles has been STEPPED.
The odor and flavor of trufllcs are most
distinctive, and the delicacy of this favor
is highly esteemed by cooks, these fungi
being generally employed for 1avoring
meats. The fresher truilies are used the
better. as they lose their perfume 10y eS-
posure to the air Thus, English truflles
which reach the market fresh gathered
are preferable to those obtained from
abroad; and those, again, which are
deeper in the ground are superior to
those found near the surface, possibly
owing to the same reason--viz.: that
they have been better protected from ac-
cess Of air.
To cook truffles, they should first be
well washed--if necessary scrubbed with
a brush--in warm water, rinsed and then
boiled (according 10 sizc) from two 10
three hours. They may be served, hid
den in a napkin, as if they were chest
nuts. They are eaten ut the second
course. dry, with cold butter. The game
is eaten with them, and the crisp peel is
not discarded. Some people boil truliles
in champagne, under the impression that
they dcquire the flavor of the wine. This
is a most eXtravagant and useless Gus
tom, as, in the iirst place, the tough skin
of the truiile is quite impervious, and
secondly, the wine, directly il is heated
TO boiling point, loses all spirit and flavor
If it is desired to put truilles into a
salmi, boil them separately, then peel
and cut them up whcn the dish is ready.
then over all pour the gravy or sauce
They should also he cooked separately if
intended for insertion into boar's head
or for combination with the stufling for
turkey. In the latter case they should
be peeled and introduced with the stuff
ing.-London Queen.
Don't Mention tho Bricrs.