The times., 1889-09-27

street, past dirty houses, crossed brook,
and ran on between high, stern walls. At
last heard a noise as of falling water
ahead. All says l, here at last is the grot-
TO, walked on faster and faster and there
in the path, which came to an end, stood
what was evidently mill-the water
splashed over wheel that it did not turn
and women were kneeling ON the bank-not
at their devotion, but washing, (the women
are always washing here and still the people
are always dirty ,andmy Grotto de Carolina
was simply tobacco factory now OH vaca-
ton. Well, anticipation is greater than re-
alization anyway. l had had my anticipation
and now went back, bought lunch for 10
cents and cup of coffee for 8 cents and
soothed my injured and rufled feelings
with repast. We all lunch in the open
air in Italy, the tables i'm front of the cafe
are filled with people, men and women gos-
siplng and drinking wine and beer. / am
the only person in the crowd who has the
courage to tackle coffee and water, they
might stand the coffee but the water would
be too much for them. l am an object of
curiosity again. Water will do very well to
turn mills, wash clothes and bathe III Il can
hardly believe though that the average Ital-
ian ever tried its cleansing power), but to
drink here they shrug their shoulders and
sputter more flowing Italian. 1 make my
lunch, though. I'd have done it in my
mood in the face of all Italy, and came
back to the depot.
Here was interrupted, two hours ago, by
Hans, who rushed in exctedly saying my
baggage had arrived Off we went at run
TO the custom house where signed papers,
paid number of francs and armed with the
documents soon had my unlucky valise, and
here, after skirmish with the examiner
who insisted on keeping my revolver but
which L insited if couldn't keep, Hans
should have, my adventures with the lost
vallse came to an end. L shall have no
more such experiences, they cost too much
time, too many francs and too much trouble.
shall stick to that inanimate leather bun
die closer than brother in the future till
land in the only right and decent country in
the world, again, where travel is facilitated
and not Kindred, and where English, more
musical than Italian, more expressive than
German, more devout than Spanish and
more eloquent than French is the mother
tongue.
Speaking of English, met a genuine
Yankee going up the Eiffel tower in Paris.
AS we gradually went up higher and higher
and the houses and people below grew
smaller and smaller his admiration for the
wonderful structure increased. He'd be
"Gol-darned if it aint the wonderfulest
thing on airth, how like blazes it dew stick
up in the air. Jerlisha Jane but couldn't
build one foot high. Darn my skin not
even a little one for a cent" and SO ON. 1t
sounded good, it sounded honest and sincere
minglng with the easy palavering of French
swindlers and l liked the fellow, and /
knew that he had a just and due apprecia-
tion of the most wonderful structure of the
age and that the people in Jonesvile would
know all about it when he got home.
Italy is land of churches-churches
everywhere and priests on every hand.
their church bells are always Changing away
as though to remind faithless people of
the presence of a saviour and the necessity
of prayer. But Sunday is the holiday.
Amusement places and cafes all open, the
people all shouting and sing and the bands
playing. Just now there is gang of fel-
lows outside shouting away for their own
amusement and other peoples torture,
habit not altogether uncommon i'm Owosso.
They are like German operate chorous,
each man sings solo entirely independent
and different from his fellows, the only sim
ilarity so far as / can discover is in the
words, they all sound alike and all end in
and O.
Well, howl away, I'm off for Milan, from
there to Rome and Venice with Florence
and Naples thrown in between by way of
spice to the journey. l think Europe must
be one vast hay field. When l landed at
Queenstown, July 21, they were haying,
they were just cutting the crop in Scotland
stacking it when we were in central Eng
land, moving again in southern France,
curing it in Switzerland and have seen
field or two half cut in Italy-there is near,
ly two months of haying and have been
going south all the time since leaving Scot
land. There's problem for farmers.
But / must stop. IL get started on what
I've seen and noticed and wondered at 1
shall takeup an extra edition of THE TIMES.
l only wanted to give my friends some no
tions of the troubles of foreign travel when
one is ignorant of the ways, customs and
language of the people. l have had other
experiences with luggage-was lost once
myself and had to telegraph to find out
where was, but enough for the once.
STANLEY +. PARKILL.