The intelligencer. [volume] (Lexington, Mo.) 1887-1891, 1889-09-07
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Fail
Long ClOaks-w ways of
Making.

A peculiar rust color, called Tour
a prominent shade in fall importations
and is expected to displace the terra
cOttas, yellowish browns and other
kindred hues now in vogue. II does
not, however, conflict with greyish blues
old tapestry greens, yellowish reds,
dahlia and other blendings, which
produced in wool or silk, form the
plain material that serves as an offset
o combination fronts, borders and
panels in great variety OF design and
richness Comparatively few persons
can afford to purchase these elegant
silks, but the fine woods show beautiful
combinations not only in tapestry pat
terms of answering fabric, but in higher
tones of silk, velvet, velOurs and even
plush, the latter, however, being most
frequently placed as a border that
serves the purpose OF a frame TO some
pictorial display. Less expensive
woods are adorned with floral and
other patterns done in mohair and by
its contrasting shine, very pretty re-
suits are obtained at moderate expense.
VELVET FLOWERS,
leaves and feathery grasses woven in
black on the new colOred groundwork
are handsomest OF all and vary perpet-
ually from bold designs TO small buds
and sprays. Empire wreaths appear
and likewise bouquets caught loosely
by flying ribbons; some patterns are
all over or again leave room for the
fine simmer of silken threads thrown
up to the surface in woods, or in case
of armure or faille silks, tor an exhibit
lion OF the rich body of the goods,
since new failles especially are dis
rinctly handsome in thick reps that are
closely rivalled however by the softer
attractions of armures. Silks of all de-
scriptiOns have received a great i'm
petus from the exposition; maButac.
turers have e~ndeavored TO Outvie each
other and Judging from these first
importations of Lord and Taylor, the
like has never before been witnessed.
SHOULDER CAPEs
of cloth are very noticeable in their
department OF street garments and a
sure sign that they will be much worn.
Those OF colored cloth in successive
rows take the lead and rs u new de-
parture, may be mentioned some hav-
] ing long front ends. In longer gar
ments, the Ursuline cloak, so called be-
cause a close imitation of that order OF
nuns, shows even the conventional
hood and girdle, while a nun like
brown cloth perfects the resemblance.
| Very worldly adOrnments of borders
and perpendicular stripes appear at
times however, this being in harmony
with the bordeIed dress patterns; some
even are in tapestry all Over patterns
and later on, il is not improbable that
| rich silks with or without kindred Or
lamentations will belle The sanity
origin of the ursnlime. In the making of
NEW DRESSES,
there is considerable conflict of
thought AM If from tie same. "a free
dom 81 ould arise similar to HAT which
rcigns at present, the benefit will be
prOpOrriunate. Ii Is conceded that
faithful %portrayaIs OF Margurrite's cos
tune III Faust, are heing already pre-
pared in cloth and once intruduc ed,
III Y may extend to higher class ma
terra . Fifteenth century dresses show
ii skirt Of II material slightly draped
above another, while strong iffJrts
,Ic made tor a revival OF tie old time
coral stramd abou! the neck: the beau
iiilly artistic Empire coitIuIe with
Golden iiilct ab"u! the head, .hn,.s a
rrvertinY ~ clA-eir outlines and the
'nrg ago; il is certain that laCics are
firing OF a perpetual Direcrune with
inherently stiff outlines, and thus the
-:%hs of tte times point to soft falling
druperY. But with sudden caprice,
ideas most in favor may he abandoned
and the next month will be a critical
time in the world OF dress.
Lucy CARTER.