The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-05-29
SOME BECOMING GOWNS.
1HewEARER's INDIVIDUALITY SUITED.
All That Now Remains of the Bustie 10
the Yaguest Hint-PecuIiar Fads and
Fancies-SOme of the New
StyIes-IndividuaI Taste.

While there are several styles so varied that
they suit all ages and all figures, there is q
growing tendency to consult ones individual
fancy and 10 wear whatever may be individ-
ualy becoming. This applies even TO tbs
dressing of the hair, and there are many
men to-day who have adopted one fashion and
do not vary it. This is urged by the French
journals as being artistic. Therefore, artistic
effect has, in measure, taken precedence Of
mere fashionableness
There has been little change IN both waists
and skirts Waists are still cut moderately
short on the shoulder, to allow for the high
puts or the fullness that finishes ali sleeves
this season. The darts are still high, and the
directoire coats give the appearance of slender
ness, and what is called long waistedness."
The empire styles, of course, are the reverse Of
this being short to begin with, and this efecs
is heightened by the broad, soft sashes which
reach from the arrn-hole TO the belt and are
kept smooth by whalebones These, however
are meant only for the house, and should not
be worn anywhere else
The dress reiormers have evidently mads
themselves heard. for all that now remains Of
the hustle is the vaguest hint. The huge con-
struetOns Of steel, hair, and drilling have, hg.
uratively, collapsed. and the well-dressed NO.
man this season does not have to 90 about With
hump like dronedary, to pay the penalty
with an eyer-present backache. There is no
reason. heaven be praised. why she cannot have
the comfort and satisfaction of leaning back
IN her chair unless she prefer the rigid stateli-
ness that prompted our great-grandmothers 70
forego any such indulgence.
The necessary fullness is given TO the dress
skirt by two or three reeds, according 20 the
hight The upper one is placed about nine
inches below the waist line, and the second the
ordinary space below this The back breadths
OF dresses do not stand out but slope from the
waist to the first reed, and they droop some
what. Many OF the new dresses, even those tor
street wear are made decidedly low without
the standing collar that has been worn for 50
many seasons. They either round are
slightly V-shaped front and back. The finish
Is directoire plating OF the dress material OF
OF white embroidery, and the sleeves are fin
lshed in the same way.
Another fancy Is that all eyes used In fasteu-
ing waists must be button-hole stitched with
silk the color OF the dress, that they viii not
show; they also stay fastened more securely
than those that are not so covered.
The inside finish of all handsome waists is
OF course, still quite as important the out
side the seams being bound with ribbon and
the whalebones inclosed in castings Of silk tame,
feather stitched in place.
Buttons are being worn more than formerly.
tunes, and, both large and small are very
conspicuous part of the dress. They may be
had at from 50 cents to So dozen. There are
women, 1t may be said, who have fad for but
tons, and become expert in telling their
value as jewellers in rating precious stones.
4 walking dress is a French robe OF gray.
green camel s-hair serge. with a deep band of
embroidery, conventiOnalized roses and leaves
IN pearl color and darker green silk, reaching
to the knee. 4 lapel forms on the right side OF
" M of ark
green silk cord, fastened with large buttons of
dark green velvet. The left side is draped high
on the hip. showing the skirt beneath. side
plated, the plalts one and half inches in
width. The back drapery has two short puffs
N-shaped, attached to the pointed basque, the
breadths falling straight to the bottom of the
skirt plainly stitched on the bottom and along
the sides.
The directoire vest is dark green surah, but
toning dagonally from below the bust to the
bottom or the basque. with small green velvet
buttons corresponding with the larger ones on
the outer jacket. The reyers of the en-
broldery, edged with bias band of dark green
velvet one inch in width. The sleeves have
deep cuffs OF the embroidery, edged with the
velvet, of which material the high. close collar
Is also formed. 4 very beautiful costume is of
exquisite black Marquise lace, a pattern OF
roses and open work. The skirt is made of an
entire piece of the lace, which is forty-one
inches wide the foundation Is of heavy black
satin accordion plated, the lower edge OF the
lace being scallOped, each scaliop formed of g
heavy wreath OF roses. The left side of the
skirt Is Greek drapery, looped high TO show a
second skirt OF the lace beneath and the satin
plating at the hem. The right of the overdress
is fastened to the side and back of the under
skirt forming a full cascade. The waist IS
made on n foundation of black SATIN surplus
N-shaped, back and front, the fullness termin-
ating in a point at the waist line. The N-shaped
fullness is defined by black ribbon starting
from the side seam under the arm-hole, which
ties in one loop, the two long ends reaching to
the bottom of the skirt. The sleeves are full,
high on the shoulder, reaching to the elbow,
and finished with the scalloped edge OF the lace,
forming ruffie. A shirred undersleeve and a
shirred piece, giving the effect OF high neck,
made separate, to be adjusted when the
dress is worn on the street This dress, I'm
ished costs $3.50.
Another dress of black and lilac surah is par.
ticulary artistic. The skirt is Of alternate
panels of the black, accordion-plainted. and of
the lilac, bOX-plaited, over which falls full
plaits OF black point de esprit, the effect being
extremely light and graceful. In the back the
lace Is full, very slightly draped, and dividing
10 show the silk panels beneath. The waist has
side-plaited cuffs of the lace turned back over
q undercuf, of the lilac; the front is full,
shirred on the shoulder, the fullness narrowing
10 a point at the belt where a black is simply
crossed, with loag ends and no loops
Another robe is of Enthusiastically flame
color-camePs hair. The embroidery is white,
the pattern heavily outlined IN green and gold.
The front of the skirt has bounce 10 the knee,
where a shirred puff falls over forming head
ing like a rufle. The embroidery, eight inches
wide, forms panels either side OF this full
front
The directoire coat is trimmed with narrower
embroidery, TO correspond, from the shoulder
to the bust, and across to the side seams under
the arm. With this is worn a long, soft sash OF
pale green crepe de chine, knotted loosely az
the side. iabot of the same finishes the
waists a gay and dashing costume that will
be most becoming to the gay and dashing bru-
nette for whom it is intended.
New Wrinkles Of Fashion.
Bencaline dresses are in favor for afternoon
receptions.
Gentlemen's neck scarfs for summer wear are
made of pongee.
Black and colored tulle bonnets are made for
midsummer wear.
Maids of honor at weddings carry baskets of
lilies of the valley.
Bonnets for youthful matrons have strings
that come from the back.
Very large ladies should wear plain fabrics
without figures stripes.
Silver lorgnettes are a shade more elegant
than those of tortoise shell.
4 wedding trosseau for a bride in England
consists OF eighty garments
Sleeve buttons, decorated with an initial let
ter in rustic work, are as popular as ever.