The national leader., 1889-04-06
FASHION NOTES.

girl. was Of q light fawn color cash.
mere, with the accordion plated skirt,
ana the waist Directoire style, with
the back. in deep, plain slashes. 1t
was very neat but plain costume.
"A very handsome spring costume
is of 'old rose'' camel's hair. with a
white border. 1t is made Directoire
style. The revers are Of ''old rose''
velvet, the vest Is Of cream colored
surah, with broad band at waist
line or the velvet. The sleeves have a
pun OF white surah and cuff OF vel
vet.
| -Dragon-6ies. black birds, and black
butterflies are fashionable trimmings
amid flowers and feathers; and lace is
now In great favor, for hat trimming,
Ribbons are in endless variety. Gauze
ribbons, brocades ribbons, striped rib
bons, ribbons onbre. and others are
employed.
Tho high hats have had their
death knell sounded at last. Some Of
the new hats are very fat, and some
are nothing but little piece of silk or
flimsy material, with bunch of flowers
In front. The toques are still In de-
mand. but are lower and more pointed
in front than they were.
Home dressmaking is made quite
simple and easy now. The stores in
addition to their loaded counters, also
offer to fit the waist of bought ma
terial. or to cut and pin together the
whole costume. The paper patterns Of
sizes to order, Is also a great help to
one who does her own sewing.
The Directoire jersey is cut away
over vest, and fastened with two
high buttons. Matalees of silk,
surah and merveileuse are perfect
delight to An ease-lOvlng woman. There
Is comfort in them and good looks, the
yokes are shirred. tucked or shocked,
and they are confined to the waist with
a loose belt or girdle. They are mostly
trimmed with lace and are made in all
the new desirable shades.
The full-waisted jerseys are very
popular for those who cannot stand the
severe style of the tailor-made article.
These have yokes of plaits, tuckS and
Of shocking, the fullness belted in at
| the waist with wide belt and orna-
mental buckle. They are made of
plain and striped goods, and In many
cases embroidered with braid herring.
bone stitch or have plastrOn of Per.
sian trimming.
"A very striking and stylish gmg-
ham suit was made of plaid gingham,
blue and pink lines. The skirt had full
drapery. The waist was tight fitting
and had vest OF pink surah. There
were large wooden mOlds covered
with the pink, for decoration. The
sleeve was lovely, at the elbow it
was slashed and puff OF the pink
inserted, which did look so pretty, with
the stripes Of the gingham crossing it,
The blouse waists can be had in
any material; soft silks, plain challies,
crepes de chine and mohaire, seems to
be the most popular. Eithe- snlrring or
the finest knife plating give the neces-
sary fit and yoke-like effect.
Belts come of the same material,
and are indispensable, as some of the
fullness is left around the waist fOI
each wearer to arrange for herself, and
IS to be drawn in under the belt.
Satin-faced surah blouses have fulled-
in undersleeves halfway between elbow
and waist, of some contrasting color
In the material.
"A pretty child's dress was full
skirt, tucked. and shirred On low
necked waist, which had vest OF
velvet. The half sleeves were OF vel
vet. A white waist was worn under
it as yoke and sleeves, which set 1t
off beautifully.
Another one for child, was OF
rose colored cashmere with the robe
trimming. 1t had full skirt or Dox
plaits, and the waist was shirred from
the shoulders to the waist. over tlght
lining, cut low, aud had yoke OF
white surah. The shlrrlng at the waist
was caught with a large bow OF rose
ribbon.
The witch stitch" is something
new In embroidery, and surely there Is
witchcraft about it. for the pattern
looks as though half or more OF II
were in applique, but it isn't. Inc
thread is carried along on the uhder
side, just outlining the pattern on the
right side; the remainder OF the de-
sign Is worked in the ordinary stitch,
making an exceedingly pretty pattern
and taking novelty. AT some houses
we find this new feature, anu De-
wilderlng mass of Hamburgs Oh every
widths and design. The forty-hve
inch flouncIng of revering and en-
broidery is the most popular OF all tne
widths; some patterns are MADE up OF
revering as wide as the insertion WIN
which it alternates; others nave
clusters of cords mlngling with nome
stitch effects, while some patterns en-
brace them all.
The world has moved until now,
leading houses show line OF scotch
zephyr ginghams that for design, style.
finish and range of color rival SIX, and
a gingham dress IS no longer GDe , pia.n,
simple garment 1t was OF otd' meselng
anc lace stripes are found IN an oIH.- cUlnDi-
nations of colors, from the moSs oetiSaoo ;s
blues and pinks to blacks anu WIVES.