The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-03-20
COMING SPRING COLORS.
FIFTEEN MINUTES WITH FASHIONS.
Spring and Summer Shades Definitely De-
cided-Popular serges and silks-Henri-
eta Cloth, Nuns Yelling, and Other
Filmy Woods For Evening.

prevail during the coming spring and sum-
mer months. The new golden terra-cotta
called "etresque," for the complexion that
can bear it, will be in high favor. Golden
brown viii be quite as popular as ever and
ranks next to the many lovely tints IN
gray that have obtained so long and still
have a strong hold on the affections OF
that portion of womankind which appre-
ciates the value of a toning hue. All the
new goods shown so far are in novel dyes
in old rose, strawberry, mahogany, rasp-
berry, rosewood, rich tints OF blue, and
several odd green shades. None OF these
is bright or garish and many exhibit deli
cate and beautiful results of experiments
in half-tones. Lighter colors will prevail
in all manner of costumes, whether they
be for indoor or outdoor wear. The as
ISOLATION of black with cOlors, notably
green, terra-cotta and gray, will be contln-
ued through the summer. Indeed, the
combinations in this way that proved such
a feature in winter dresses have given rise
to new weaves in which colors are found
mingled with black in the same width of
materials are the new black serges, as
weighty in appearance as their price is IN
reality. The borders of these are of mot
tied silk reps in bars of ribbon stripes.
Wonderfully stylish gowns may be
evolved from these if the underskirt be OF
faille or bengaline to correspond in color
with the leading shade in the border The
silk makes a skirt, plain and round, with
an accordion-plaited front breadth. For
stout figures that find the waving fullness
OF the accordion plaits undesirable finely
stitched lengthwise tucks may replace
them. The serge enters into the long pO-
lOnaise with the border in rows down its
back drapery. The vest matches the IN
derskirt, and the revers and broad cuffs
are of the border with facings OF silk.
Other serge suits in dark shades are IN
tailor style, with vests, collars and cuffs OF
black cord gimp underlaid with white,
yellow, or bright red cloth. The new
woolens having two-inCh blocks OF various
cclors are properly combined with plain
stuff of their dominant shade.
Few street gowns of a single material
will be worn, the tendency being to pro
duce contrasts either of color or fabric. If
a tan or brown wool be chosen for gown
the correct accessory and trimming will be
found in a silk sash of any OF the gay
Scotch plaids a soft, full vest of the
same may be added, and also a panel
which should be placed at one side and be
very narrow. Although panels and long
plaits are the choice in skirt garnitures,
the long apron front is by no means aban-
doned and will be largely adopted by tall,
slender women, whose hight may require
some diminution. Dressmakers are ex-
hibiting models in which these apron dra-
peries are graceful features, and the jacket,
which completes the costume is of the
same color as the underdress. The rule to
associate brocaded, striped, or embroid-
cred fabric with plain one no longer
holds good. Two embroidered materials
are often seen in one costume. Striped
goods are intermixed, and sometimes a
large plaid, small check, and a stripe all
in one suit. This may sound rather loud
and bizarre, but the arrangement Of the
different patterns in skillful hands
achieves a result that may well be termed
artistic.
Summer silks for afternoon calling, or
house dresses, are shown in printed faille
Franchise, peau &c sole, and armure silks
of very light weight. These silks are no
heavier than the familiar India silks, and
will, in all likelihood, usurp their places
They are shown in conventionalized flower
designs and in variety of huge scroll pat
terms, detached leaves, or geometrical
squares, chains, etc. Then the printed
failleS have plain surfaces with a flower
border along one edge. For church wear,
driving, or afternoon calls nothing can be
prettier than this style. Old colors are re-
vived in them. The once popular ashes OF
roses, so trying TO any but the freshest,
rosiest skin, is revived in them and the
blues OF all degrees. Light terra-cotta,
with cashmere colors in the border, is es-
pecially lovely in these, and the mahogany
grounds have dull green's, reds, and gold,
in their borders. Enough silk to cover a
parasol will be purchased with the dress
pattern, and the woman that can afford it
would do well to supply herself with a
parasol TO accompany each suit. The OPP
ulent Oriental silks will be extensively
used with soft, finely webbed henrietta
cloth, nuns yelling, and other filmy woods
for evening dress at watering-place hops
and for other full-dress occasions.
A whole chapter might well be written
on sleeves, for their variety is endless No
two pairs appear alike, and all testify to
the inexhaustible fund of ingenuity, taste,
and originality of modiste or tailor. The
way the majority of these important por-
tons of a bodice are pulled, slashed,
crimped, plated and draped is appalling.
Some of them seem to be rolled up over
wrinkled sleeves of a different material.
Again we see them open almost TO the
shoulder on the inside of the arm, and
others have long points that almost touch
the floor. All of these caprices, however.
are by good dressers confined to house
wear or for ceremonious events. The
street costume yet retains the coat-shape,
although somewhat increased in width.
The plain sleeve has been found too uni
versally becoming, convenient, and stylish
to at once recede before its more ornate
rival. This shape, like the tailor-made
gown, has its definite place and has been
found to fill it so acceptably that those
who 90 in for comfort will not hesitate to
continue its use. Many of these are fin
ished at the wrist without trimming of
any kind. Others are bound with silk
braid or have two or three rows of it
stitched on, with a trio of small buttons
on the outside seam. For those who pre-
fer the plain coat shape for dressy gown
there are various modes of trimming them
which leave their close-fitting effect unal-
tered. The most common of these STYLES
will be the big puff at the shoulder, and a
smaller one at the wrist. The wrist puff
may be omitted. and narrow fiat cuff of
velvet or lace substituted for it. Diaphan-
Gus fabrics will be made up with a cap or
epaulet of velvet at the shoulder with the
fullness below the elbow gathered into q
band of the same. On evening gowns n