New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-02-17
THE FASHIONS.
NEW MATERIALS FOR SPRING AND SUMNER


NEW MATERIALS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER.
The new silks and satns for spring and summer
suggest in their splendid minglng of soft tints and
rich shades and their arabesque intricacy of pattern
an Arabian-Night dream of luxury. Though soft
Damascan OF silk furnish the motif for the
new goods they not copies of bygone goods;
the manufacturer OF to-day has stamped upon them
his own individuality of make producing silk that
can be said TO belong distinctively TO the present
The rich faie Franchise silks
dating back but few years and have boon
unusually popular because they are effective
and durable Arnure silks continue to be
used, especially in stripes with satin faans
Franchise and satin and gros-grain silks shown in
the merchants pattern books. Most Of tho new
brocades striped ground composed OF two
or three of these different weaves Of silk over which
the bocaded pattern is thrown In rich Oriental ara
besques or French flower designs.
Oriental silks extensively produced for com>
binatlon with SOFT fine cashmeres and other woods,
for evening dress at watering place dances, and for
other fuIl-dress occasions when made up In CONS
bination with plain silk with Oriental gauzes or
silk muslins. Besides these Oriental patterns are
shown the quaintest reproductions Of tho old-umo
brocaded silks on paidcd and striped ground; or
cross-barred silks, in which flower garland forms
the pattern; striped silk striped with rose-gar-
lands in large fine designs. Some OF the new oro-
cadeS woven on fancy uoiiihbpoh"
ground, which is effective, throwing the design Oh
tn. silk in relief Rose and roses with fhorny
stems, longstemmed narcissi, and great japanese
chry santhemums with their curled petals, are useo
in French brocades pale striped satns ana gros-
grain grounds Of lemon yellow, in that brghter
shade of pure yellow called by the French -beaten
god5 and in rose tints, favorite color this sea-
son. rvallng Nile green for evening. Rose colon
are especially lovely in satin, the lusaous SURFACE
of which softcns what would be otherwise too pro-,
nounced a color Pale pink satins, with silyer
sheen arc especially beautiful embroidered with
silver threads. Nile green, cream, white, and ye-
low satin arc similarly shot with metal threads
and embroidered with gold or silver These rich
metal embroidered brocades are intended for only
a small portion of the costume-usually the tapnef
front and accessory trimmings. The other brocades
frequently form the chief part OF evening dresses
and ara made in combination with plain SILK and
often draped with lace and gauzes. For simple sik
house gowns of black silk the plain sig
forms the principal part Of the gown. the brocaded
SILK being only introduced as accessory.
The use of more pronounced coIors the prominence
Of rose shades ranging from pale seplnk to deep
shade of Camilla color and the use OF black AGA
old fashioned ashes-ofroses and mode shades as fos
for bright coor in plsds and stripes are novel ieat-
ures of the season. There some brocades With
asimple traccry silk threads raised on satin OF
armure ground. Thus a pattern in black Is wrougns
over Camilla rose, pale buegleen or other ground,
forming deep border on one seivedge ana narrow
ono OH the other with two three fine lines WHICH
look IL they were wrought by the needle between.
breadth or more OF these brOdere patterns Is used
as drapery with plain material is mingled In some
| effective manner showing both selvedges some
| beautiful black satins for dowagcr gowns arc EN-,
broidered on one sclvedge in gold or copper with
border OF great like lotus flower leaves little OF
this brocade will give splendid effect 10 heavy gown Oh
| solid black satin made for dinner wear
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Summer silks for cool afternoon dresses are shown
in printed faie Franchise peau de sole, and armuro
SILK of much lighter weight than thoss intended fer
full occasions These silks are scarcely heavier
than the India silks OF last season and expected
to succeed them. They are shown In conventonaiized
patterns of longstcmmed daisies IN careless clusters
clover blossoms leaves and grasses, and In variety
OF large scroil-lIle scattered designs suggestive OF
| First Empire silks. A few light taffeta giace and
grosgrain glace silks with chene figures are found
among the imported silks; but will be moro useful
for combination trimming to wool than for entire
silk costumes.
Tho return Of the useful black SILK gown to popular
favor is certan- indeed, 1t has ever completely lost
prestige. There prospect few years ago,
wien the worthless character of grain demon
strated, that gowns Of fine wool would completely
superSede black silk Since the Introduction OF failis
Francase economical are again buying black
silk for church and for servceabie wear. This is
heavy corded, luStr0uS inc WearliR
which have been proved. In the new weaves called
alsilk7 bengalIne experts believe they have silken
goods which will longer than any silk made
without becoming shiny; but It is very doubtful
II any silk can be made which Will not wear shiny
| In time Black peau de sole makes handsome.
durable gown and black armure is used TO some extent
by persons of mourning The feur do soie' SIX
Is quite recent Of black silk with dead lustre
which is used for mourning gowns. The best make of
erOs-gran silk Is probably the pure dye silks THAI
begin In price at about g.. The alsk bengslines
| are So and upward, and faillo Franchise silks begin
| in a good quality at about 81 rs yard. IL Is
foolish expect TO get anything genuine and durable
much below these prices Handsome heavy Qualities
! of falle Franchise 81 so and upward. Printef
summer silks in colors 81 and upward. Black
surah, which is used by persons In mourning and by
elderly ladies, is 75 CENTS 90 cents and 81 up Ia
| 81 as yard. Black brocades shown in nearly
all tho patterns and grounds of colored brocades de-
scribed Large flower and scroll designs over 9
ground striped by the use Of two silks arc considered
usually Of plain silk with a front breadth and
trimming CT bIocade; the brocade Is always used IN
such a way as to be accessory rather than tia
| chief part Of the gown.
There Is no special change in gloves. The glove
Is stn worn to contrast with rather than match ING
colors includes twelve shades of tan color, one shade
of tho pretty "putty' color in use some time ago
to-" daf p'" Slate color, and finally black.
Than4s are due to James McCreery Co., Arnold
Constable & Co., and Il. J. Denning q Co.
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HOW TO DEAL WITH DIPHTHERIA.
From The Boston Journal.
A committee of the Massachusetts Medical Society
appointed to confer with the State Board OF Health
relative dphherla Officially recommends 'hss ,aS
community the contagious nature Of the disease
earliest possible recognition and report Y