The national leader., 1889-03-23
FASHION NOTES

long redingote dresses, as they
repeat the lines above the wal
break the long, graceful lines
skirt. The fur capes will be
tuted by shoulder capes of faced
cut about the size or the fur cap
tho cloth is placed layer upon
consisting sometimes of three
and at others of six capes, each
than that just above it. The
edges OF each cape are smooth
and require no other finish.
shoulders are high IN the way
popular, and the collar of veil
plush Is turned over widely arour
neck, and a great Directoire b
ribbon is tied at the throat. Red
cloth with red plush collar is r,
mended to young women ior Goa
capes, while two queter color
made to alternate in other capes,
as green cloth and yellowish d
cloth alternating in six layers, or
of two shades, or grayish green
fawn color cloth.
jackets will be worn for
spring, over dresses that are
without redingote. The Dired
revers, short and broad, are on
ber. and are turned over at the I'd
disclose a vest of cloth of lighter
in some jackets, while others have
rolling revers extending to the ert
the fronts Of the jacket, and dis
ing a vest Of lighter cloth nearly
cred with applique designs, Gu
arabesQues, flowers. ETC., done in d
of a darker shade AMI edged
feather braid. Some have the End
belt OIL, four or five inches wide.
placed across the vest, disappea|
under the revers. 1t is usually 4
orately embroidered.
TEA GOWN.
"A handsome new tea gown
spring is made OF sateen, figured,
light grounds. The front las the
Gordon plating of light blue 81
falling from the neck to the floor.
has the Directoire revers, and a
of the surah tied on the side a
waist, from the side seams.
sleeves have wide cuffs of the su
The back is tight fitting, 1t
handsome costume.
WAISTS AND BAsQUEs.
The Empire waist Is the
suitable for young ladies' dresses
Tor school girls graduating gov
made of thin summer goods. s
have the Empire belted waists.
insertion down the fronts and
sleeves, and worn with a broad s
Some have the fronts gathered on
shoulders and lap in surplice fasl
on the bust. and sometimes the baC
also Tapped. Other waists have
fronts gathered to the shoulders of
plain back and open in V shape at
throat, then drawn down to the v
line, while still others are draped &C
the front in curvlng folds and trim
down only one side, A full stra
skirt is in keeping with these waist
-Belted waists should not be '
on full figures. They are more ada
to slim figures. Basques or re
waists made with darts and side TO
should be worn on full forms.
should not, however, fit as close
those made for stiff dresses. Eas
ting basques of gingham or pei
dresses are made with or witho
thin muslin lining, and to give I
variety a short, square-cornered ia
IS set on the front, extending onl
the waist line, and opening over
pointed front of the basque, which
embroidery laid upon 1t; this embr
cry Is three inches wide, and Is SO
with the scalloDed edge meeting d
the fronts. and edgIng the Dotton
the basque to the under-arm sea
Sometimes the basque is OF plain &C
while the over-jacket front Is plalC
striped like the back and sleeves.
sleeves are on most OF the col
dresses, but for very large arms
easy coat sleeves finished below
elbow with plated frill OF the
terial or of embroidery falling II
and displaying the tapering waists.
Other pretty waists have no ga
though they are made over III
fitted with darts; the material Is 9
cred on the shoulders, and drawn u'
to a point below the waist llne.
open over a tucked or shlrred yes
plain goods. A pointed glrole
wide Empire belt crosses the ~
Mutton-leg sleeves look well Will
waist.
Gloves, which had lately peer
elaborately trimmed with Dows
ribbon, are once more quite SIN
The Mousquetaire cuff has gone on
fashion. Gloves are made pain, le
but with only three buttons a.
wrist; a small elastic circle Snoulu
placed inside, 80 as to keep the g.
straight and clllgini to tne aIn. :,
the morning the fashionable glove =
dark kid, with thick black seaMs, s.
the afternoon it is G. Suede lung'a1
kid, with fine sea :; for riolng'
deerskln; for the evening, the long
glove, OF light or medium Sna' @
reaching up to the tcp OF tae arn
the dress is low.necket-
We understand from the very
authorities on such naster' tnas
etegantes have had quite enougn .
of such comparative slnrilcity 80 )
"a "a: -.-I.-,. fsghi m anu