New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-05-26
THE FASHIONS.
pRrrY sur,NER COWS.

PRETTY sUrER GOWNS
~. t,odency Of Ill fashions b 10 greater simplicity
ahs ursctiol abandonment OF drepcsaos snd
A. ~arct,oo Of tho tournuro which has been grsou4y
ZIG all tend to this result Thcro IL no
-,.,.stne The fsct thst women Of refined taste sse
n.-,rnnsr 10 weary Q little OF tho ossrro cnec" Oh
S...,,rc and First Empire styles though there Arc
many elaborate figured msfonah ufseo upon .nem
~ Sr,~makers and combinations Of two or three
.,e,sals sro continually used. Tho long, strsight
o,,r.,np skirts tho fuflsleoved, shortwasted, sur
s,,ced bod,ces OF seventy years ago 80 familiar in
IA nortrats arc reproduced in effect though not
.on,ed In minutse This style Of dress, which
.ssocIated with tho sentimental type OF woman
Md for whom Mrs. Hemans sang and lady novel
sts Of her day wrote, made with bodices siopins
/, the shoulder seams Fashion then abhorred any
thing approaching such Insecurity full chests or
souars shoulders The greatest variation in tho waist
Of 1919 and the generally adopted ct present for
indoor and country wear is In the shoulder seam !,
this Is now invariably high There sro variety OF
drsped corsages In which outline tho waAss -
tho bach only. In some cases tho front OF the
styIe dagonsly from the left shoulder; this drapery
a continued In tho font of tho skirt, Tho only part
Of the skirts whcre any drspery Is allowable. In
or bodices two scarf like pieces como from either
shoulder and gathered IN . close point forming
q waist known the Recamter waist; or they are
folded and crossed n surpboe styh 1t Is impossible
to enumerate the many ways in which this fashion
Is carried out Of draptng the figure. fitted lining
Is necessary with all these ooBaeos This style OF
waist suggested In the aesthetic dresses intro
duced O few years ago ard will DO commended BY
artists because they picturesque IN the best sense
Of tho word Sheer, diaphanous materials, muslins,
nets and soft Oriental silks, sought for these
afternoon summer gowns India silks which arc
reproduced extensively In this country utilized
for morning and afternoon and make useful dress.
Light delicate grounds figured with the largo, skstnhy
patterns now considered stylish are used for In
door wear. whle dark navy blue, wood
brown and dark green and slate shades
arc used for travelling and general dress. Tho do
signs OF India silks stamped In Lyons superior in
colorng and pattern to those made in this country.
American manufacturers seem to strive perpetually
for bizarre effects, believing IN this way they meet
the demand Of tho greater number Of their buyers,
sorry comment on tho comparative refinement Of pub
lie taste in tho two countries. While It Is no doubt
true that refined women in America arc the best
dressed women In tho world, IL Is equally true that
there is country under the where tho general
people show much refinement Of taste in dress as
In Franco. Figured India silks arc rarely imported
froai the Fast, but tho best Of these silks woven
and dyed in India China and stamrei at Lyons.
charming creamy white India silk, figured In blue,
bronze and duh rod, In patterns merely outlined by
dotted lines Of color recently made with straight
back, side breahs and draped front. caught up with
cluster OF ribbons in bhc bronze and rel at the left
side. The drapcd wal was shirrcd at the side and
rather eccentcally drawn the fgurc, falling In
easy soft folds the bust to tho waist. Another
drcss was Of the same silk In pure white ground,
ngurd with delicate grasses and oat sprays In tho
new color known as oaten grcn--a charming hue, more
becoming than any shade approaching tho blue tone
yet introduced. This gown was finished with
accessory trimmings OF white silk with silver braid
silvery gray shades Of India silk arc combined In
figures and stripes With white, and In some cases
. touch Of bun Il introduced in the pattern. II IS
. fancy Of the hour to underskirt Of white
India silk with these stripes and II there Is bun In
the pattern IL Is introduced the feather edge OF
the inch wide gray ribbon, used TO border It above
the hem, IN three four rows.
Already fastidinus women casting flowers aside
and demand some other trimming which has not
become ,ulgarn~! by cheap imitation. \ few rare
flowers ium the def fingers of French flower workers
which canno. be successfully initiated are used in
first class millinery, but this IS the exception. The
danticst bonncs for summer arc severely simple In
trimming made OF eXquisely fine fancy straw
or OF plain black net or somo sheer siiken gauze
10 transparent when pulled over tho framo as 10
show the co!iiure beneath. Little bonnets quito
similar in shape 10 last seasons remain ire rnio
except for young ladies' There are many charming
picturesque hats for youthful faces. These hats
mr., varieties of the Dirrctoirc pokcs introduced at
the beginning OF the season, but less pronounced
in style and not so large such hats for country or
carriage especially pretty made Oh bi%A orus
sells net cNqulstcly light, and almost transparent
trimmed with a garland Of fine Wild blossoms fhgnSh
urbans OF fine dark straw, with close turned DriH''
sImnly trimmed with velvet binding and close rSe'cs
n, arr rnhnn ar tuc ae used for travelling. shop2ing
and general wear by younG lSiicS. Inc most usciu'
hat for school and country wear for children y
large low.crwnri flr. OF plain or mixed straw III
some dark color. trimmed with one or TWO rows Oh
velvet folds and full rOSr't" of white dotted net or
silk mall at the side. Little pokcS OF Fancy mN"'
straw for younger children arr simply trimmed with
ribbon bows Lrghorn flats are moro popular than
ever before for children on drN'y occasions The are
usually trimmed with ribbon roNrttes anu s"mct -"
with clu,tc,s OF lin" white close rueebuuS. "h'te
vio.sts or some other m" Hover: .. o,.-r,rs
Neclig,e> for sUm!nrr wcr' never more chsrnlmg
than now Tho TIA gowns. which have breh
act down from their high pIa'e as reception dresses
are now Or u MnEsci Th"y ar Generally made for
summer OF India ,i!k or rr L%nrn ms!hr",N: wan anu
oh ch cone, IN d ,ratr culpr~. t'agOwn recently
ip,pntcd of India 1iIh IN that hn" rich crm,"n
I,.,S Of black ,primk!ci tho six. The skirt was
iu and pressed Int, arr"n'lon pea; . ~" and
he'd I'm at the vast line with a whe icit leathSr
stitched Win ha"k ;k fall OF PICK nc r@a"' an1
formed the Gun Of the large. full sleeve which was a:
held down BY row Of fa ncG 'r ayn the O oibow
Other tea gown, mao with SUPPLE waists oL ln'
graceful hrapcd Creek front before ut~rHo'u a.
Matinee sarqirS OF sheer nan>ook ar trimmer ooIh
Zinc 10 tuck the cn;Ir' fronts Of these sHaurH III
nuartcr inch uchS. Ribbons In pal "at Erfeh,
ro"" color or some other shah CONF from The under
arm seams and are tied car'lrNSly over the lopsc
fr,ns These >ac.urs worn WIN WhlU
I nansook or c"!orrd ;nrah manco shr, or m0rc
often a half worn silk skirt Is Tnpvatch hy ecOhoWc
women IA wear for morning with such shqnrS
Tho lon. hanlci paras9l fails t, find the general a.
favor which expected. IL l, too pronnnhccd IN
,tylr and too heavy. A paraSo With handle of
mrdum Size E. preferred By the best dressed women
Theirs Is con Sidcl able demand for plr white slrah
ulrasolS with ivory or light carved wood handleS'
nnui,ant styles in plain black white net arc also
ole for drssy use.
w thanks arr due to Arnold. Constable & Co.. Lord
q Taylor J. C. Dcvin and Miss Milne.