Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1889-08-23

Large plalds IN fancy colorS are imported
in thick yet light soft wool goods for au-
tumn and winter dresses They are very
wide, and but seven yards will be required
for dress with pleated skirt and habit
waist. Mohair will be used for the founda
ton skirt Double breasted baslues and
Norfolk jackets will be revived for some of
these dresses, while others will have shirt
waists of plain wool under jackets of the
plaid fitted in the back, but straight and
loose in front. Stitched edges and metal
buttons will give them a neat finish For
very slight figures the long, ell-draped
over-skirt will be used for plaid gowns,
falling straight in pleats behind and i'll
front, but taken up slightly on each side to
give glimpses of a skirt beneath, which is
only band or pleating of the plaid set on
foundation skirt.
Faced cloths for next seasons tailor gowns
will be trimmed with fur bands and with
much braiding set on the foot of the skirt
in upturned points, or in one or two much
larger points which are called Tour Eiffel
designs because they are broad at the base
and grow slender at the top, which reaches
more than halfway up the skirt this trim
ming may be directly in front, or it may be
on both sides of the skirt On the waist
the braiding comes from the sides, begin
ming Just under the arms, or it Stimulates u
round yoke, or is in Vandyck points from
the collar down, with also a grdle, The
styles for tailor gowns remain very simple,
having their limitations ON account of the
weight of the cloth. Medieval designs will
be used again for cloth dresses, the skirt
being straight and lifted slightly on the left
side in a large chdtelaine pleat which dis
closes a lower skirt. The new shade of
terra Gotta called Eiflel, prune and petuua
shades, the dark mahogany tint rechristen-
ed Buffalo, nickel or blue grass, the Russian
greens, aud the new gold browns, will he
chosen for stylish cloth dresses. Black and
brown furs, especially sable astrakhan and
mink, will form borders and bindings for
trimming
Cancels hair, China Grape, faille and ar
mure are the materials being made up into
handsome black dresses for autumn, while
mohair is for useful and plain gowns.
Cancels hair has its special trimming of
deep scallops embroidered ON its edges, and
an addition of fish net on which other en-
broidered scallops are placed in rows; this
trims the front of the skirt edges the lap
ped fronts of the corsage, and almost en-
tirely forms the small mantle for the street.
Other black wool dresses will be effectively
trimmed with the new Escurial passemen-
terie, an open cord trimming in Nandyck
points which comes in many colors but al
ways with black for its foundation per
haps it has but one color added, or perhaps
it has several in oriental coloring, or it may
be the Spanish red and yellow with black,
or Russian green of several shades, but the
black foundation remains. Black India
cashmere and China Grape dresses are made
with insertions of Chantilly lace around
the skirt and a corsage trimming of jet
beads in points, to which either gold or steel
beads are added Black armure silk and
faille franchise or bengaline will be bright
eued by cashmere colored Nandycks and
drop trimmings of beads and cords, or by
branching designs of leaves, with gold or
silver beads in the middle outlined bv fine
jet beads.
A novelty among long wraps is called the
Ursuline cloak, 1t covers the wearer from
throat to foot, has hood and nuns sleeves,
and cord as thick as a rope, like friar's
girdle, tied around the waist. 1t is made
of thick soft camels hair cloth in dark
carmelite brown shades, and is lined with
thick silk the girdle is wool cord, and the
garment is entirely without trimming.
Other long cloaks are of broch6 cloth figur-
ed all over, or of the new bordered cloths
with broad stripes at the foot, or with cor
ner pieces in stripes down the front and
across the foot, while still others are of the
soutache cloth woven to represent braiding
in all over designs.
Shoulder capes of cloth, with an upper
cape almost as full as a ruifie, will be worn
in the intermediate season before heavy
wraps are required They are made of tan,
green, gray or white cloths, and are even
all around and just too short to conceal the
tapering, slender waist or else they are
pointed slightly in front or shaped there in
long mantila ends, Fur shoulder-capes
will also be worn in early autumn days.
-Hdiper's Bazaar,