Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1889-11-16

remember them as scattered group, or az
detached groups, lying in the Atlantic al
most in the path of Europe bound steamers,
about two thousand miles east of Philadel-
phia and New York, seven hundred and fifty
miles west of Spain and Portugal, and elev
en- hundred miles to the west of south of
England. Historically considered they are
almost devoid of interest, their relation to
the fabulous fancies of Oriental legends ris-
ing far superior to the realism of their actu-
al discovery and coloniza tion by the Portu-
guese about the middle of the fifteenth CEN
tury. In the main the Azores have been
veritable Isles of Peace. The wretched
struggles between Spain and Portugal scarce
ly ever reached in i'll effect to these enchant-
ing shores; and the occasional belching Of a
volcano or topping over of mountain,
with perhaps as infrequent dispute with
British men-of-war, or an Algerian pirate,
over the spoils Of some petty, somnolent
port, have furnished the most trying vexa-
tions these simple, sunny people have known
or owned.
On the morning of the seventh day out
from Nantes we sighted st. Michael. By
noon We were abreast of its northwestern
crsggy peaks and bssaltic headlands; and,
after several hours of pleasant sailing almost
underneath the frowning battlements of the
height of the "Seven Cities" the Candida
ria, and Pieo de Vigario, we rounded Point
Deigada, and came to anchor within the arti-
fetal harbor of the chief city and port of st.
Michael, quaint and sleepy old Ponta Delga-
de-, the third city in size and Importance IN
Portugal and the Azores. The harbor itself
is but a slight indentation within great
semi-circular arm of the sea, forever exposed
to fierce, though balmy, southwest winds.
The city struggles to the right and left for
more than mile from the docks, and creeps
prettily out and up over pleasant ways of
verdure and early winter bloom towards
circling group of high and serrated outlying
hills. There is even here certain sense Of
smartness and brightness from the very
point of the tremendous breakwater, where
they are still dumping great rocks from the
quarries or La Cara, around past the slip
perry quays, here and there surmounted by
fine Doric structures, and on through the
sunny streets overshadowed now and then
by massive cupola, ungainly dome or deli
cate minaret-for all olden architecture is
here in varying and vagarous examples-out
and on, past tower of church or r~anoient
campanile, to the far and lovely villas and
Guintas of the rich, like white flecks against
the heathery mountain sides beyond. The
little harbor is also somewhat astir. Over
there are barks and ships from England,
waiting for "charters," or already laden and
tarrying for favoring gales. A sight dear to
an American heart is our own flag above the
deck of rakish New Bedford packet-one
of those kindly, accommodating crafts that
not SO very long ago cruised about the
Azores watching for signal fires by night
and the near cargoes of runaway Portuguese
who preferred becoming New Bedford and
Gloucester fishermen until thirty-six years Of
age to the questionable glory of Azorean
military service; and alongside her is one of
those storm defying New Bedford whalers
that zone the watery globe for blubbsr and
INooo ,attipcy haoE IN homa mort in aOvwhara
from one to three years. time! Over yonder
is the low lying government mail steamer
from Lisbon, broad, squatty and dirty, with
her dingy tunnels almost hidden in wreaths
of smoke, for she is just ready to set sail on
the return voyage to Lisbon, and everything
looking craft, schooner rigged, all deck and
poop, lies just sstern. Her crew are hairy
lot all armed with savage OK goads like the
pixies of Spanish picadores In the bull ring;
for she is laden with fine, sleek cattle from
the island of st. Mary forty miles to the
south; for the esrnieeiros or butchers of
Ponta Dslgada. They seem to know it too,
for their believing and the proddiug from
the piqueiros or pikemen are fearful.
Alongside the cattle schooner is still odder
craft. 1t is fashioned after both the Havan-
ese lighter and a New York North River
scow, with high three story cabins overhang-
ing stern and PROV, above double tillers,
something like the ancient galleons of the
dim old prints. It is rugged for one sail,
and that one, part of cloth and part of a
light rush mating, is Tapping idly above
another brown faced, hairy breasted crew,
lying in all manner of picturesque postures
on an entire cargo of native pottery, also
from St. Mary's. My Breton captain tells
me that this quaint pottery, common kind
for kitchen purposes, though many pieces
are of most graceful shape, is largely export
ed from st. Mary's to the other islands of the
Azores, and even to Spain, Brittany and the
we saw it in the craft, without package or
breakage, go well is it made. The differsnt
vessels are painted a brigt reddish ochre, be-
fore baking, giving them a gay color, and
adding greatly to the fanciful appearance of
the fair Azorean maids, when gay process
sions of these are bringing water from the
distant springs and wells.
The government mail boat having steamed
out of the harbor with frantic demonstra-
tions of interest and regard on the part of
the thousands collected at the lower pla1as
and along the quays, the customs and health
officers, tobacco bosts, beggars' boats, and
hotel runners boats now swarmed about our
little brigantine, and we were bearded,
taken, examined, questioned and bullied not
little, after the unctuous Portuguese man
ner; but all with an amplitude of deferential
peliteness far exceeding anything have ever
elsewhere seen. The bowing, scraping, hat
doffing and salaan1s between our captain and
the officers during the mssgerly necessary
astounding. My captain was fully their
equal in these cordial gymnastics, but the
cold blood of a northern cline coursing
through my own veins rendered my part In
these proceedings 30 stiff and stately that ]
was instantly set upon as an undoobted es-
trangeiro who must be captured for prey;
whereupon more than a score Of apparently
half mad boasmen and runners sang, pala'
vered and howled in hideous chorus s'in
Gods name" to "Durma ma ninha casa ests
Motel" that is, to ledge with me this
night" But my good Breton captain bel.
lowing fsrcsly at them all ''Bastantel-ba-
stante!" preserved me from these superla.
tive polite vultures; and, when evening had
como, took me in his own gig to the landing
led me up the slippery stairs, and conducted
me through plazas, courts and beneath huge
arches into by street, clean and pleasant
but dark and silent, to an ancient habitatior
whore we halted. He and the captain fell
upon each others neck and kissed. Their
solemnly proceeding through flower filled
patio, or court, We came to an apartment
where sat the old mans wife and daughter
| The former shewered all manner Of greet
| ings. The latter, an Azorean beauty of NJ
the. big Breton az blushingly stammered hi
greetings to her. 1t was easy to see I hat
fallen upon little romance at the outset
| But that could wait; and in a few moment
all the wonderful verbal fioriture of negotia
ton had resulted in securing for me hom
while at Ponta Delgada for but one ''ssrril
ha," or about twenty-five cents in American
money, per day. knew the captain woult
tarry below, and promising to visit hin
aboard his brigantine on the morrow, bad
| the group plain English "Good night" t,
which they all responded with an unctuou
ssDeos 0 permita!' when tho aged Senior
with light consisting of wick diml!
Pickering from basin Of lard, showed nj
to a comfortable room, whose balcony over
hung the street below. In this, and upon
bed of corn husks as clean and sweet as
my olden American farm home ever prompt
ed to pleasant boyhood dreams, passed m.
first night in the balmy isles OF the Azores
EDGAR L. WAKEMAN.
Kind lady-Eere is an old dress coat q
INV husbands that you might wear.
i Tramp-What, before sundowna Ne
madami I appreciate the kindly motiv
| -htob hos ,,roynntad Won to offar ma fh