Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-09-03
TO BE In STYLE.
Correct Dress for Men in the Fall and
Winter.

to be agitated respecting the styles which are
prescribed 40 the correct thing to be donned
by the gilded youth during the coming fall and
winter season. Ere long autumn will temper
the solar rays with touch of increasing chilli
ness and those incarnations of elegance which
are the happy result Of . combined and bar
monlous effort on the part Of nature and the
tailor must perforce shed the breezy apparel
OF the sweltering dog days for the heavier gar
| ments adapted to the season Of fading flowers
and the seer and yellow leaf Now is the
time to prepare for the preface of winter In
the latest degrees Of fashion the styles will be
found to be varied and unusually artistic and
| Tor this reason must prove wonderfully adaptive
70 those innumerable varieties of form and
inquire which span the gulf between Hercules
and Apollo. The inviting prospect renders the
| favorites Of fortune who are blessed with feshv
pocketbooks more than ever ready for an early
an n with the tailor; A stroll among the
artists OF the avenue and a talk with the sar-
| torlal .'htterateur," John ]. Mitchell. enable
the writer to present a summary Of this most
interesting theme. which may bear the stamp
OF accuracy and authority.
FALL AND WINTER ovERcoArs
The most popular overcoat for fall or winter
use will be shapely Hy-front sack of moderate
length made of light material, with lapels one
and three-fourths inches WIDE and roll Eve
inches The side seams of the back are but
snghtly curved, and for persons of average
height the length varies from SO to S71 inches.
Inc sleeves are moderately large, though
shapeiy on the inside, and finished with a vent
and bottom stitching. For winter wear the
length ranges for the average height from SO
| 10 ~ inches. The lapels about two and
one-fourth inches wide and the seams of the
velvet collar are Tapped and stitched wide. The
fronts to the end OF collar are faced with plain
| or quilted silk and the edges piped with velvet,
with single row Of stitching about one-eighth
! inch back of it.
The ample sleeves are finished with imitation
cuffs closed with two buttons. In other re-
spects there is no difference between the two
overcoats. both being finished as soft as posi-
Bile and, when thrown open, the fronts roll free.
The indications are that the box overcoat will
be worn more than usual. It would doubtless
come into more general use but for the cir
cumstance that it is garment that few can be-
comingly wear because it is a coat that looks
Well only on those who know how to wear it.
To do SO is knack that only few possess. It
may be added that the box" is a garment that
every tailor cannot make with pronounced sue
cess II 1t Is not evidently large and loose it is
not what box coat should be, but il it ap-
pears baggy in the back it is a monstrosity.
The cape ulster will continue to be q favorite
and the style most in favor will be moderately
loose single-breasted sack about 48 inches
long for the average height, with a cape reach
ing nearly to the bottom Of the sleeves, having
but little drapery, extending in front to just
back OF the crease Of the coat and detachable.
COLLARS AND POCKETS.
The collar will be from three to four inches
wide and the roll FIVE inches Deep The side
pockets will have wide in or out flaps, and two
breast pockets will be stitched in. The fur
lined and trimmed overcoat will be more in
vogue than ever, and will be an ample sack
made Of kersey or smooth-faced goods in blue
or brown. double breasted, with wide sleeves
with raw edges double stitched. and with the
Tapped seams. The collar will be of the shawl
form. about seven inches wide at the back, and
the cuffs VIII be as deep as the collar is wide.
Sea otter and the mink will be the most popu-
lar furs for this purpose. The Inverness"
will be chiefly used for wear over an evening
dress, being especially adapted to this purpose
on account Of its amplitude and the ease with
which 1T can be put on or taken off. Usually it
will be made of roughish suiting of modest
pattern, though dark cheviots will be preferred.
1t is to be noted as special features Of all
coats that the shoulders are cut moderately
wide, while the sleeves average 16 inches at the
elbow and 114 inches at the bottom. The
fronts OF all coats are made soft to roll free.
FOR EVENING DRESS.
It may be stated briefly that the materials
used for the coat and trousers are softer and
finer than heretofore: white and delicately
tinted silks and black satins, richly and elabor-
ately embroidered or embossed, will be in great
favor for vests; the low-roll silk faced sack
variously designated the ''Cowes" and Tux
edo" and the dress sack will be very popular
for certain occasions where the stereotyped
evening suit was once indispensable.
The peaked-lapel and the shawl-collar swal-
low-tail are the only coats proper for evening
dress, although the dress sack is correct for
stage parties, with ladies in full dress, in the
billiard rooms, and for informal evening visits.
The waist length for either style of swallow
tail should be 49, inches for the average
height and the full length shoulder IS inches.
The skirts are narrow at the bottom, with the
corners very slightly rounded for the peaked
lapel and boldly rounded for the shawl-collar
style. The peaked lapel is silk-faced to the
lapel seam, and the collar OF the other style il
slk-covered to the edge.
Whether the vest be Of the same material as
the coat, or OF white silk or black satin, it
closes with three or four buttons. opens to cor
respond with the coat, has q light collar, and
has the crease curved smartly at the lower part
Of the opening. A pleasing effect is to have
the crease of the vest to peep out beyond
the crease OF the coat running parallel with it
to within inches of the end Of the collar
where it curves suddenly to the 'front.'
Trousers for evening dress are made more
! shapely than for any other style, and have q
tribe more spring. The average size at the
knee is 1917 inches, and from II to l715 inches
at the bottom. The side seams are finished
plain. though a narrow welt or fat braiding of
is a natural stripe woven in the goods.
Broadcioths are less and less used from sea-
son to season. Soft sickly finish of certain
worsteds. their lightness, elasticity and their
deep, rich, lusterless black, make them de-
cidedly preferable for evening wear In this
connection it may be noted, as a suggestion of
Mr.. Mitchell's, tina. it would be an excellent
idea to establish the custom of making the
walters uniform of broadcloth and doe skin
and the gentlemen's evening dress suit of
worsted, in order to avoid confusion and pre-
vent cases Of mistaken identity.
STYLISH BUSINESS SUITS.
The dress sack is variously made of
worsteds, thibets and cheviots, and has
neither buttons nor outside pockets, while
| the roll is long, ample and silk-faced to the
| edge. For day dress a double-breasted frock
or any style Of morning, coat made of dark
| colored worsted, with vest of the same or of
delicately tinted material, and light colored
| trousers of dark pattern is correct
/ For seml-dress and genteel business suits the
| double-breasted frock has been displaced by
| the cutaway. The three and four-buttoned
| getaways are alike in all respects except the
number of buttons and slightly lower roll for
| the former. The average lengths are 1915
and 33 inches. and the fronts are cut away be-
low the lower button to the side of the leg.
The one-button cutaway will be favorite with
corpulent and short, stout men. The sleeves
OF all coats are finished to initiate cuffs closed
with two buttons. These getaways have an
outside pocket finished with a welt, but do not
have side flaps, unless intended for strictly
business wear The yeat ia aometipaa ~ Ell.