Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-10-12
Written for TIE EVENING STAR
A ROUNDABOUT VOYAGE.
From Brooklyn to Montevideo BY Way
of the African Coast.

n
From Brooklyn to Montevideo BY Way
of the African Coast.
TIE FINE HARBOR OF PORTO eRANpE-Ay AFRICAN
ISLAND AND us LAZY INHABITANrs-rHE CAPT.
TAI OF URCGUAY-AS ITALIAN CITY IN SOUTH
AMERICA DANCE HOUSE IN FULL BLAST
On q bright day in January, amid the
cheers Of the gallant tars swarming the
rigging Of the various men-of-war then lying at
the Brooklyn navy yard, the band of the flag
ship playing Aud Lang Syne" and the waving
OF handkerchiefs and hats BY friends congregated
on the wharf, we steamed slowly out upon our
long voyage. Wives, children. sweethearts and
friends were momentarily forgotten in the ex-
element Of departure and only when we were
fairly upon our way did we realize that we were
bidding farewell to all we held dear, and that it
might be for some Of Us an eternal farewell to
our native land and to them.
As soon as we lost sight OF Scotland light
ship the sky became overcast and snow COM
menced to fall, while long, heavy seas came roll
ing after US from the northward. For some
days We were rendered about as uncomfortable
0y wind and weather as mortals could well be.
The rolling and plunging ship, creaking tmbers
and bowling winds continued until the mOnOt-
ony OF the thing became almost unbearable. To
add to the misery Of many. they were terribly
sea sick. Only those who have experienced this
distressing malady can enter into any Kind OF
sympathy with these poor unfortunate ones 1t
is amusing. however, to see the
VARIOUS EFFECTS SEA SICKNESS PRODUCES
upon different individuals Some are plucky
enough to continue on their feet and soon find
their 'sea legs" Others are rendered quite
helpless, and even the grave matter Of life and
death becomes Of little Importance to them
some again imagine that one part cular spot in
the ship tends to alleviate their sutferings al
though 1t may be position where the motion of
the vessel will be felt the most; here they take
up temporary residence and nothing can in
duee them to move away, not even meals or
sleep.
With the return of fine weather the spirits of
the men returned hkewis1. and the days were
spent in getting acquainted with their various
duties on board and with each other.
Our crew embraced almost every nationality.
from the almOnd-eyed celestial to the laxative
Frenchman; from the phIegmatic Teuton to the
demonstrative African; Poles. Danes, Swedes.
Italians. scotch. japanese and Americans mingled
together in seeming harmony and fraternity.
When the tropics were reached and the crew
were allowed to 20 bareioOted q cause for gen.
eral remark was the number of bad and dis
tOrted feet to be found among them. Here
chirOpodst could have found nnumerable SUBJ
jects worthy of his skill One German particu-
larry possessed pair Of feet so remarkably dis
torted as to have a peculiar fascination to the
beholder. and throughout the cruise ne never
passed but the eyes wandered inadvertently to
his feet to see II they had altered or possibly
improved in any respect.
PORTO GRANDE.
At daybreak on the 18th Of February the well
come cry Of ''land no" resOunded through the
ship, and soon the dark, high peaks of san An
tonic doomed against the Frightening southern
Gly. After twenty-eight days passed monot-
onOusly at sea the prospect OF a run ashore was
very refreshing. Steaming quickly past AntO-
Mo entered the eastern passage to Porto
Grande. and were soon at anchor in the harbor.
Here We found the German men-oi-war Stein,
Moltke, Prince AdPlbert and Gneisenau swing
ing at their cables. and our German friends
watched Us with curiosity depicted upon their
faces as we anchored in their midst.
The harbor of Porto Grande is peculiarly
adapted by nature for commerce, and presents
TO the storm-tossed mariner a snug haven of
safety. 1t Is semi-circular in form and is sur
rounded by high peaks and crags Of volcanic
formation. sparsely covered BY scrubby vegeta-
ton Across the opening Of this horse shoe
basin nature has placed the island OF San Anto-
Mo. thus forming completely landlocked har-
Dor OF good depth and with two entrances. Near
the center of the harOor stands Bird Island. on
whose summit Is a light house that may be seen
at sea by vessels coming in either entrance. The
town of Porto Grande is devoid Of interest, and
contains the usual amagamation of Portuguese
and negroes to be found in all of the African
coast islands. The principal buildings are the
custom house, Jail and hospital.
A: UNIQUE SYSTEM OF TAXATION
is in vogue. Taxes are levied upon merchant
at a rate corresponding to the extent of his
business and the advantageous location of his
property. 1t is almost impossible for a foreigner
to get business roOthold, as he is soon taxed
so severely that If he Is near the center of the
city he Is compelled either to move to the out
skirts or abandon his business entirely. The
utmost attention Is paid to the sanitary condi-
ton Of the town. The police department seems
to be in excellent condition, and the uniform of
its members is neat and in good taste. Its ef-
fectiveness was fully tested upon the occasion
of the first liberty our crew received. They soon
came IN contact with these blue-coated guard-
ans Of the law, and that these encounters were
entertaining may be inferred from the express
sion OF more than one ''old salt on the follow
ing morning. when they thickly declared through
the space lately occupied by their now missing
molars, THAT thith wath the hneth place they
werth ever in"
Opposite the town. on the west side of the
bay, rises a high peak whose summit presents a
renowned freak Of nature. Clearly delineated
against the sky may be seen the features Of a
human face. looking upward, and which all
Americans call
wAsHINGTON's FACE.
To people Of other nationaIities possibly
resemblance could also be traced to some promi-
nent historical parsonage Of their country. At
any rate. II il was q popularity of the immortal
George to possess a pimply nose, then the re-
sembance would be startling, for the rocky in
dividual gazing so solemnly up into space
Possesses the '.rummiest" nose ever seen on
any port-hardened sinner.
While good bread and meat are scarce. nature
seems to have otherwise fully provided for the
indolent Inhabitants Of this saluDriOus group.
Oranges, bananas and vans may be had in
abundance, while the harbor Is literally filed
with fishes. which are caught in great numbers.
As a coalng station the Importance of Porto
Grande Is great. The wages OF a labOrer for
putting coal in bags ready for transportation
by lighter to the numerous vessels constantly
calling after this valuable commodity is from Is
to ~ shillings per day. but owing to their con-
stitutiOnal lack OF energy. they only work
about one day in the week .preferring to spend the
balance OF their time 10 the numerous drink
ing resorts and in fishing. the prolific waters
furnishing an infinite amount Of sport for the