Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1889-08-14

just draped at the top with tulle, are much
more worn. They are often crossed with q
sword belt sash or garland of flowers, but
high bows and epaulets of flowers are worn
too. Sleeves are no longer in6nitesimal; one
short puff finds most favor. The seams of
evening bodices are cut up to the shoulder in
distinct and separate divisions, not as they
used to be-in one piece, with two dart
seams. This keeps them up on the shoulder
better. No tucker or lace is worn; but I
hear this will not continue, and that there is
a disposition to bring them back again. 1t
is almost impossible for ball bodices to fit
too closely, and they look as if the figure
had been veritably melted into them. Sat-
in, armure royal, moire, velvet, striped silk
.-all these are used for bodices, green velvet
being chiefly employed with green dresses.
Long strips of silk or eight inch wide rib
bons are frequently attached to the shonlder
straps, and fall to the hem of the skirt.
Now, as to the different new styles Of
making. At most of the best balls there is
a preponderance of white gowns of Eve to
ten, and of green of three to ten: next to
these comes gray. There is a sort of classic
style which finds favor with good figures.
The skirt may be of tulle or silk piece lace
simply draped. The foundation of one I
will describe was yellow silk, draped with
tulle, and over that the lace. The bodice
was made of soft ribbed silk, perfectly plain ;
but from the shoulders was long scarf dra-
perry of silk crepe of the same yellow tone.
1t passed from one shoulder to the waist; was
left 80 loose that 1t did not hide the form of
the waist. 1t hung from the shoulder in
stole like ends, almost to the hem of the
| dress. The newest and most stylish gowns
would seem to be green, especially char.
trsuse green, which is loveliest by candle
light. For example, green aerophsne was
| draped over yellow satin, and caught up
| with yellow iris and grass; the bodice green
| velvet There is q wealth of flowers In
| troducsd on ball gowns now. They start
| an one side from just below the waist, d.
minishing to nothing toward the feet.
Real leaves, chosen of hardy nature, that
will not look withered by the end OF the
evening, are exceedingly fashionable. and
| for these Mrs. Green, of Crawford, has es-
| tablished reputation, dispatching them by
early morning for the nights festivities in
| the country. This would seem to be send
| ing Goals to Newcastle; dowers from Lon-
don to the country; hut here again style
comes In 1t is the arrangement OF the
sprays that constitutes much of their beau
ty, and unless well mounted they would
look nothing.
Large blooms in artificial flowers are pre-
ferred to any others, and velvet rather than
the ordinary kind For bodice trimmings
triple sprays come from the shoulders and
cross the bodice, a large bouquet with
stems visible being fastened at the side.
Vieux rose velvet bodices show off pink
aud shaded roses to perfection. Panels
placed on skirts are lined with distinc-
| tive color and fell loose. For example, a
white tulle gown, made with white silk pan
els, which are lined with green, the ruche at
| the hem displaying the same green in the To-
| liage of the flowers enclosed within 1t. An
| other dress, made with the straight Direc-
toire coat panels, had the front entirely COM
posed of orchids, over which these panels
| seem to fall. Fronts of close set roses nest
| ling in bed OF tuile, and without foliage,
| are exceedingly pretty; SO are fronts covered
with rose leaves tinted to match the dress.
Plain tulle is better worn than any beaded OF
spangled kind, the only exception being the
| finely embroidered designs, in which beads
often appear, woven after the Empire pat
| terns Gold embroidery is introduced in the
| same way. Panels of gold embroidery are
also Introduced. The large mosquito nets,
] with big meshsss, are used over satin, such az
| green net over white satin. A new kind OF
black lace, which is to be much used for ball
gowns, has soft Spanish designs on FIsaeh
lace grounds; it drapss we'll. This is used
with green trimmings and is draped over
green. Green appears in most of the best
dresses, though it is more generally becom-
| ing where it is allowed to give an effect with
out asserting itself too decidedly.
Those who interest themselves in the make
of their ball gowns must remember much o.
their success depends on how they carr,
themselves when the dress is on. A woman
should look as if she were indeed queen
her head raised, her shoulders we'll back, he
waist firm, her feet planted on the grount
l with deeision