New-York tribune., 1889-10-13
IN THE HIGHLANDS.
A VISIT TO EDERLINE-THE SCENERY AND
LIFE OF SCOTLAND.
fyRox , sr.vy CORRESPONDENT op THE TRBUsE.l
- N+ nhap Santambpr 4 T.

Seen in tho twilight as first saw II, this is a
prettv and pi,turesuue seaside village, gay with
plancing LIGHTS and busy with the movements or
rapid vehicles and hurryng travellers. 1t IS
called the capital of the Western Highlands Oh
Scotland and no doubt it deserves the name lor l1
is the common centre of all the trade ana enterrse
of this region and all the threads OF traVel radlate
from it. Built in a sem-circle, along the margin
of lovely sheltered bay il looks forth upon the
wild waters of the Firth of Lorne, visible, south
westerly, through the sable Sound of Herrera,
while behind and around 1t rises bold range OF
rocky and sparsely wooded hills, on which are
placed q few Villas and on one Of which, a mile
away stand the venerable ruins of Dunally Castle,
in the ancestral domain of the ancient Highland
family of Macdougal The houses OF Cban are bullt
of gray stone and are mostly modern. There are
many hotels, fronting upon the Parade, which ex-
tends for long distance upon the verge OF the
sea- The opposite shore is Herrera, an island
about mile distant and beyond that and Lorne
water extends the great island of Null. In many
ways Oban is suggestive Of an American sea-
port upon the New-England coast The same
characteristics mark it that may be seen at
Gloucester, Mass although that once romantic
place has been spoiled by the Irish and at Mount
Desert in Maine. The surroundings, indeed, are
different; for the Scotch hills have delicious
Color ana Witness All IueIf OWHf Mhllc 'ic
skies unlike those of blue and brilliant America,
lower and gloom and threaten, and tinge the
whole world beneath them-the mOors, the noun
tains, the clustered gray villages the lonely ruins
and the tumblng plains of the desolate sea-with
a melancholy, romantic, shadowy darkness, the
perfect twig ght of poetic vision. No place could
be more practical than Oban is In its everyday hfe
nor any place more sweet and dreamlike to the
pensive mood of contemplation and the rowing
gaze of fancy. Viewed, / viewed 1t, under
the star ght and the drifting cloud, between
2 and o'clock this morning 1t was picture Oh
beauty never 10 be forgotten. A few nghts were
twinkling here and there among the dwellings, or
momentarly glaring on the deserted Parade'
No sound was heard but the moaning OF the night
wind and the plash Of waters Surglng on the
beach Now and then belated passenger came
wandering along the pavement and disappeared IN
a turn of the road The air was sweet with the
mingled fragrance of the heathery hills and the
salt odors Of the sea. Upon the CLASSY bosom OF
the bay-dark, clear ard gently undulahng with
the pressure of the ocean tide-more than seventy
small boats each moored at a buoy, and all
veered in one direction, swung careless on the
water. and mingled with them were upward
of twenty schooners and little steamboats,,
all idle and all at peace Many an hour of toll
and sorrow is vet 10 come before the long, strange
Journey of this life is ended but the memory OF
that wonderful midnight moment. alone with the
majesty of nature will be sOlace in the darkest
of them. | thought of the noble aspiration that
has been so we'll expressed by Matthew Arnold,
and deeply felt its force:
Calm soul Of all things, make 1t mne
To feel, amid the city's jar,
That there abldes peace Of thine,
Man did not make and cannot mar
;rb1 from 6rSt IN
an experience altogether novel and very precious,
and it is always to be rememberd with gratitude
and delight Before coming to Oban gave two
nights and days to Loch Awe-a place that is so
beautiful and so fraught with the means OF hap
piness that time stands still in it. and even the
ceaseless vulture" of care and regret ceases Tor
while to vex the spirit with remembrance OF folly
and of sin. Looking down from the summit or
one of the great mountains that the rich and
rugged setting OF this jewel, the crumbling
ruin of Kilchurn upon its little island gray relic
first of the Macgregors and then OF the Campbells
who dispossessed them and occupied their realm.
1t must have been an imperial residence once
Its situation-cut of from the mainland and COM
manding a long view up the lake and down the
valleys, southwark and northward-is superb.
No enemy could approach it unawares. and doubt
less the followers of the Macgregor occupied every
adjacent pass, and were ambushed in
every thicket on the neighboring heights |
Seen from Ben Amer the waters of |
Lock Awe were of such crystal clear |
ness that near some part Of the shore the white |
sands were visible in perfect outline beneath |
them. while all the glorious engrdling hills were
reflected in their still and shining depths. Some
times the sun flashed out and changed the waters
70 liquid silver, lighting up the gray ruin and |
flooding the mountain side with gold: but more |
often the skies kept their sombre hue darkenng |
all beneath them with lovely gloom. All around |
,vere the beautiful hills of Glenorchy and far to
the eastward great waves of white and leaden
mist. slowly drifting in the upper ether, now hid
and now disclosed the Oympian head Of Ben Lui
and the tangled hills of Glen Shirra and Glen
Fyne. Close by in its sweet vale OF Sapbath
stiffness. was couched the little town of Dalmally.
sole reminder of the presence OF man IN these re-
mote solitudes where nature keeps the temple OF
ber worsbip and where words are needless TO /
utter her glory and her praise All day long the
neaceful lake slumbered in placid beauty under
the solemn slly-a few tiny boats and two little
steamers swinging at anchor on its bosom. All
dav lonc tbe shadows of the clouds, commingled |
Nth aocl,s Of sunshine went drifting over the
mountain, At nghtfa two great focks of
obeon attended by the pensive shepherd in his
nlaid and each guided and managed by those Won
darfullr, intelligent collies that are neverfail-
inc delight in these mountain lands. came slowly
along the vale and presently vanished in Glen
Strne. Nothing then broke the stiffness but the
obor, orr n. The shepherds dog and the sound of
MANY cataracts, some hidden and some seen. that
1oneo in music and fall in many a mass of shat
torad silver and flying spray, through deep. rocky
nifts doyvn the mountain side. After sunset q
cold wind came on to blow, and soon the heavens
uaro cIoar and ell the number Of the stars were
mirrored in beautiful Loch Awe.
They speak of the southwestern extremity Of
,ti, Ia1,o as the head of it. Loeb Awe station.
accordingly cI is at its foot, near Kchurn. Never.
tboIoss - where Macgregor sits Is the head OF