The national leader., 1889-05-18
FASHION NOTES.


creations, we do not find that thev
eclipse or make the work of American
Fashion artists, seem less desirable bv
comparison, At one of our best estab-
lishments may be seen seventy models
of the most exquisite novelties selected
from the best European houses, Worth
himself will rarely exhibit more than
eight. The event of the season was
the centennial ball on April Doth, and
among the bewildering display of es-
pecially prepared toilets for that occas-
ion was seen white gown, with bro
cade train-front of white satin with
silver flowers embroidered at the foot
in front, slender vines of silver up the
fronts of the pointed corsage, and silver
fringe dropping below the waist and
under the arms beneath the high full
short sleeves.
For one of the ladies of the Cabinet,
a gown made by Worth is of blue and
white brocade with trimmings of Opal
beads.
For another prominent society lady
has been made a grey tulte trimmed
with silver thistles holding the drapery
of the front.
The fashions of the last century
with notifications are being used
for these gowns, white silk muslin
IN straight full breadths for the front Of
the skirt, with frill across the foot in
the old fashioned way, deep ruffies at
the neck turning over, ruffies so wide
that they drape the bodice and form the
sleeve.
White wool embroidery on mousse
line de sole, is prettily used on Nile.
green brocade, the silk mousseline
forming the lower part of the corsage,
which is draped diagonally in front, by
d width of the green brocade, begin
ming on the right shoulder, and taper
ing to the waist on the left. On the
white embroidered front Of the skirt
are masseG clusters of long hanging
grasses and marguerites Ghormley is
also making gown for Mrs, Harrison,
but no amount of questioning would
induce eve. a hint to be given as to
style or material. Not less unique are
the gowns for street and home wear.
The latest importatiOns show many new
features both in material and style.
Cashmere, mousseline de laine, Chinaa
Grape, India silk, laces, fish nets and
canvas are all displayed in the model
suits.
For the early spring days, light cloth,
or combinations of striped silk with
cloth, camel's hair old brocades, shot
bengaIine, shaded taffetas
By combining the styles of the Direc-
toire with those of the First Empire
new details are the result which pro-
duce a charming effect The widely
5ordered wool dress with Jacket is a
favorite for spring wear, and Yill be
found desirable at the sea side. Bustles
are rapidly loosing their place, and the
pad hustle is seldom used, single steel
server to give a slight support and
should be placed about ten inches be-
low the band
Long coats and polonaises are in
high favor with our ladies, but there
are also many basques and round waists
with seperate skirts, straight in effect
yet are slightly draped over found
alton skirt A half tailor suit of camel's
hair on page of this number illustrates
this style. A new basque with square
tabs, and the pointed waist bands are
very popular. Care should be taken in
draping the tops of coat sleeves, the
style is not becoming to any but very
slender figures.
The new Directoire long coats have
continuous back widths, perfectly flat
on the tournure, yet gored below to
form four large huted pleats that widen
to the foot. Colors may be combined
in their gowns to suit the taste OF the
wearer. A great Directoire bow OF
black lace is at the throat, large croch-
eted buttons, and square pockets are
dues.
A great deal of Jet galIoon is used
upon the black lace dress OF figured
chantilly net. Some have wide diagonal
rows across the front of the gathered
bodice, some have the same down the
front of the skirt. Gold cord and Jet
bead galloOns are also used, as well as
a ribbon of gold. Ladies who wore lace
dresses last summer trimmed with More
ribbon will find that they are in as good
style this summer To freshen last
years lace waists, have great JaDot
of soft lace falling down the front, point
the dress low at the throat, cord 1t and
put pleated frill of lace around 1t 10 lie
down fatty, drape ribbon around the
arm size and tie in small bow on TOP.
A great deal of ribbon of all widths IS
used in every unique way upon lace
dresses. The taste of the wearer is
the only guide to fashion i'll this, as IN
many other details of the styles which
go to make up the toilet OF lovely
women.
For afternoon wear foulards are
shown in great variety, including beau
tlful effects. One in blue with a DlacK
figure is trimmed with black lace ana
with pale blue ribbon to match the
foulard. The waist is made with 1uli