The national leader., 1889-03-02
FASHION NOTES.
White yiolets are now preferred

White violets are now preferred
by bridesmaids, to any other flowers.
Silk aprons are very popular. A
very pretty one was seen made OF
pongee, with facings of velvet.
"A handsome evening dress Is of
blue dotted gauze over a blue silk
skirt. edged with heavy pinked silk
rouche. The slightly draped overskirt
has a broad gold band on the edge,
sleeves and collar have similar bands.
The waist Is arranged surplice style.
There is a new color coming in,
which it is prophesied is to be the one
particular tone of the season-Flamme
de Ponch, the amethyst tone OF spirit
when subjected to fire. A pretty gown
in this was made In brOcatelle broche OF
subdued colOring, as a polonalse, with
paSSementerle ornaments. These bro
cades are sometimes mixture of wool
and silk, with conventional floral pat
terms, such rs we have generally em.
ployed as furnishing materials, and
these will be the fashion in the near
future.
For spring and summer dresses
India silks have come in new and
large designs Of flower branches,
leaves, vine stripes, and in many
Persian patterns thickly covering the
surface, or else with Persian stripes
alternating with PLAIN stripes of China
blue, old rose, or grayish green. The
gray India silks are far more delicate
and among the most refined of all,
with their deeper toned gray figures.
For those with gay tastes, the cash
mere patterns Of palms in bandana and
Oriental colors will no 6oubt be suit
able.
"A new and handsome trimming
placed on the hens of double CASH
mere gowns and soft cloth woOlen
stuff5 Is leather. either untanned of
beige hue. with embroidery or metal
threads, or black morocco in a deep red
ground. All the patterns originate in
the Empire modes. In fact the Empire
is coming generally to the fore, and for
young girls nothing is likely to be so
much worn as the Empire styles. the
sack almost covering the bust, the
waist very short, the bows at the back
of the waist reaching to the shoulder
| blades, and the bodice itself crossing
back and front, the skirt undraped but
trimmed toward the hem.
The Directoire and Empire de-
signs and colOrs have become so grad
ually popular that they will be con-
t1nued the spring and summer; they are
| already seen In the bright stuff5 i'm
ported for the first spring dresses. The
spring woollens are tWilled serges of a
solid color in the fashionable shades of
crayish green. metal blue, old rose, or
| sable brown, to be used as long red
ingote, which opens over a brocaded
front-a vest and skirt breadth
| showing a ground Of the prevailing
color. There ought to be colors in con-
trast such as beige figures on Empire
green, copper on ecru. blue on gray,
and blue on old rose. Gay Persian
borders or great width are woven at
the foot of some of these gowns. and a
narrower border is added for trimming
the bodice.
The "Hading" jacket Is stylish
and graceful garment which importers
report as being very popular Just now
IN London and Paris. 1t is cut in
simple coat style and made variously
of fur, Krimmer, heavy matelasse, and
also of plain dark moss green velvet or
black velvet opening over white
corded silk waist coat when of the lat
ter color, and of deep pine yellow o.
toman when Of the green. Silk
soutache, extra wide. and matching
the jacket in color, nearly covers the
entire surface of the silken vest. The
sleeves are close and long, and there is
very high collar and deep wrist trim
ming of sable fur.
The more modest bodices, being
only half low at the neck and with
full sleeves that cover the arms almost
to the elbows, are taking the place Of
the low necks OF the evening dresses,
which have mere straps on the should
ers for sleeves, by the women Of fash
| ion. Some of these new half low
bodIces are gathered 1ull over the
bust, they may be cut round in the
neck or pointed in V shape, or else in
square p0mpadour fashion. The back
Is also gathered if desired at the neck
and waist line, and the broad sash is
used to give the short Empire waist
effect. These are very becoming to
slight figures. To those who do not
wish to conceal the graceful taper of
the waist we will say that the long
pointed corsages are still worn, and we
think good plan is to have the bodice
made long enough to wear over the
skirt when desired, and when you
wish to wear the sash, put the Waist
| under the skirt.
The continued mild weather we
have been having up to the end of
last week has given us a fOretaste
OF spring, and already dry goods
stores are blossoming with new cotton
goods. The Scotch ginghams, sateens,
and other goods for midsummer dresses
are displayed in the. windows. Green
and yellow shades are the novelties in
| ginghams and are found in yellow on
the stripes, in corded yellow stripes on
white, and IN plaids, while the green
shades are not confined to white COM
binations, but are striped and barred
with brown, with old rose. or ma og-
any in many irregular lines. and in
plaids as large as those OF the gayest
Scotch tartans. Red and white ging.
hams in stripes, blocks. and plaids
came into favor last summer and are
/ o.o;., ronaotad both in hri0hf ond duI1