Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1889-03-02
IN NICARAGUA.
RsMBLES AMONG TROPICAL
SCENES OF INTEREST.
Massaya and Its volcano-A Cen
trail American Inn-The
Story of a Monk.


MAssAYA, February II, 1889.
One OF the Oldest and largest towns in
Nicaragua is this, nestled close under the
volcano of the same name, and boasting a
population of 10000. The moving cause
of our coming was because we were told
that here was to be found that rara atas, a
good hotel-e the very best in Central
America"
Let me tell you what they call good
hotel In this part of the world The
landlords have no idea of permitting one
guest to selfshly monopolize whole
room to himself, or even parties of two or
three; therefore the largest inn has but
three or four sleeping apartments, around
the walls of which single beds are ranged
as in the wards of hospital. OF course
our party cannot consent to such plan,
and so we are all compelled to pay several
prices, in order to buy up an entire room
and secure it from intrusion.
The little iron bed-steads (all single y
ones) are bottomed with ox-hide, stretched
tightly from end to end, upon which are
thrown sheep-skins with the wool on, or a
mattress or pair of blankets-the result
being couch to which good pine board
would be downy by comparison.
At the head of each bed is the skeleton
Of table, painted black, upholding tin
basin filed with water, which is supposed
to be all we will need during twenty-four
hours, for ablution or any other purpose.
The chamber maid'' is always man-and
a rather cross one, too, who cannot be bribed
by bit of ribbon, a fan or other feminine
paraphernalia, to grant unusual indulg-
ences, as with the bonny hotel-maids of
Yankee land-heaven bless them
Soap and towels there are none, but will
/ generally be furnished (such as they are)
by the payment of dos reales Us cents)
extra; and if you are so unreasonabIy ex-
travagant as to desire any other illumina-
ton than that of Luna to go to bed by,
you may buy tallow dip stuck into an old
| bottle for medic (six cents); or come pro-
ylded, as the natives sometimes do, with
a pocketful of castor-oil beans, which,
strung on a stick and ignited, furnish a
better light than many civilized lamp.
| Not another article of furniture do we
get for love or money-not even a chair
unless you reckon in the inventory a peg
or two stuck into the wall, upon which you
are privileged to hang your clothes with
out extra charge For these accommoda-
tons you pay at the rate of dollar day
percapita, with alinozar, or first breakfast
thrown in-the latter consisting of small
land generally dirty mug of coffee or
chocolate for each person, accompanied by
tiny loaf of unbuttered bread, which
looks like croquet ball. and is about as
easily masticated. Dinner you must for
age for elsewhere; but there is generally a
tondtto, or restaurant, attached to each
| hotel.
One ceases to wonder that the use of
water is limited at Massaya when he
learns how the city supplies itself with
that necessary liquid. There is not a
spring or well within radius of many
miles, and all the water used must come
from Lake Massaya, which may be
reached by two routes-by climbing down
precipice only half mile from town, or
by following rough and circuitous road
for three or four miles, The cattle, mules
and horses are, of course, driven around TO
be watered, while the women and girls of
Massaya make the climbing of that preci-
pice the greater part Of their daily labor
At about the sunset hour-the fashion
able time for promenading in this latitude
we joined the female procession to the
brink of the precipice. Everybody but
ourselves had water-iar at his back. held
in place by band of leather around the
forehead and queer network Of twisted
strings. The water-jars of Nicaragua are
the oldest l have yet seen-not of pottery
like those of Mexico, or of wood or stone
as in some parts of Central America-but
huge gourds, the natural shells of which
are painted and glazed, and have strange
figures scratched upon them.
A half mile walk brought us to the
brink of the sheer cliff, at the foot of
which, one hundred feet below, sparkles
the clear, cool sheet OF water, bearing the
same name as that of the village beside it
and the mountain that overshadows them
both. The descent is almost perpendicu-
lar--in one place by series of rude lad
ders, and in others by steps cut into the
solid rock.
For moment we thought of comparing
it to Jacobs historic ladder-but no; those
half-naked figures ascending and descend
ing would never be recognized by that
Biblical worthy as the heroines Of his
dream. Most of these were young girls,
many clad only in the brown suit that ma
ture has provided with the sole addition
of a scanty chemise, while the Oldest and
best dressed matron wore nothing more than
short petticoat above the chemise
H., IL
of the waters edge, they chatted and
laughed as gaily as so many magpies; and
though respectful enough in department
toward us, spectators of another race, we
more than once distinguished the words
las estrangoras Americdnes, followed by
shouts of laughter, evidently in good-na-
tured ridicule Of our Ito them) barbarous at
tire, including hats, shoes, gloves, umbrel-
las, ct cetera.
But long before they gained the top,
Il L.. a. L r