The national leader., 1889-02-23
FASHION NOTES.


| posed OF diagonal, armure and satin
stripes very effectively arranged. other
borders have fine sateen grounds.
The revers of the DirectOire
period is now seen on low waists as
well as on high ones, and the front of
the corsage Is elaborately decorated.
Ribbons are favored as much as
they were during the early part of the
season, and while they are often the
sole decoration they are perhaps more
popular as in millinery as backgrounds
for tips or wings.
"A novelty. for perfumes is the
perfume ''cassolette" made Of ivory,
IN which the favorite perfume is kept
in a solid form. Some ladies prefer
this to the above method. 1t is pleas
ant to always have sweet reminls-
cence Of this kind Of lady.
"A handsome effect Is produced in
pretty evening and dinner dresses by
strong but harmonious contrast of
color, in which the deepest and most
certain hues are sparinglY used. The
word certain" has only recently
come into use to expressthe effect Of
color, and it makes by no means idle
distinction. for many of the latest
tints are really indefinite.
Buttons whether large or small are
always artistic and lend touch of
elegance to costumes. They are used
for ornamenting now, besides the high
color OF velvet. plush maraDou, down
or short fur. The buttons are fire.
quently covered with velvet which can
easily be made at home with very little
expense, BY buying the common
wooden moIdS.
For slender-armed women, the
new Cromwellian cuffs are very be-
coming. They are fashioned after the
manner affected by the Puritans.
These deep stylish gold embroidered
cuffs are seen, not only on coat sleeves.
but on drcssy tea gowns. A CORES
pending style is adopted for sleeves
which terminate at the elbow.
silk muslin in cream. or any color
you like is used for the neck and
sleeves, laid In very fine knife plaits;
and gros-grain or moire ribbon about
half an inch wide, gathered very full,
Is favorite finish for the neck, show
ing about half its width above the
collar, and having ends tied in a small
bow IN front.
"A very pretty thing which Is es"
pecially adapted to scarlet sicihenne
dress, is fchu of India silk muslin,
edged with knife plated lace. Milli-
ner's folds Of satin made In the old.
fashioned way, are received for trim
ming tulle gowns. as well as those of
heavier material, rows of these stiff folds
fall III clusters Of four or five, being
placed across the front and back
breadths of tulle. In one notable in.
stance, rose colored folds crossing
skirt of pale willow green tulle.
"A fabric that Is attracting a good
deal of attention is called a silk warp
Midway. The weaving has alternate
threads of black and white In both
warp and filling. All OF the warp of
both colors is of silk, and all OF the filling
| Is Of wool, which makes it exceptionally
durable, as it is remarkably stylish. 1t
Is especially adapted for elderly ladies
and for travelling dresses. 1t comes in
very wide goods and Is not particularly
expensive.
-Uo law AOb0 VI d tClJ
tasteful mourning soiree dress OF black
Grape lisse and lace over black silk.
The skirt is Of Grape, and entirely
plated with thick pinked out ruche
round the foot; drapery Of black lace
falls over it in front, and is fastened
here and there with pendants of
beaded jet passementerie. The bodice
has fronts crossed over the bosom; the
left side front is finely plated like the
skirt; the right side is plain and COW
cred with lace; 1t is covered over the
other and fastened at the waist with
pendant, short puffed sleeve. There Is
narrow edging or white Grape round
the edge Of the bodice and sleeves.
"A very pretty though simple cos
tune for street wear is OF red and blue
cashmere; the wide skirt of red cash
mere has broad bands of braid sewed
lengthwise, meeting at the waistllne.
Deep slashes IN the hem show petit
coat of blue velvet; the waist is Louis
XIII and has long tabs of blue cash
mere, wide space between the tabs
show the red skirt beneath; the tabs at
the back of the waist have revers
which are lined with the red; the waist
and tabs In front are trimmed with
braid like on the skirt. The drapery Is
of the blue cashmere, arranged in sash
style.
The following is a costume worn
by maid Of honor at fashionable
wedding. 1t consisted of short gown
of lustrous white corded silk, with a
wide band OF gold guipure all around
the bottom of the skirt, this hanging
quite straight at the back, and full
over a very slight tournure. The
bodice is very pretty, being quite a
work Of art in itself. Loose folds of
the white silk were carried in front,
from the right shoulder to the belt, the
open space In the neck was filed In
with fine plaits OF crepe Iisse. with
pearl dog collar as finish. The
sleeves were so they could be removed,
leaving model dancing toilet. The
sleeves had q dainty fall Of crepe lisse
edging, this being about six inches
wide, anc falling from the shoulders,
which was designed to be left In case
the sleeves were taken out. The left
side of the bodice was elegantly decora.
ted with rosettes Of gold guipure,
Ribbons put on in the First Empire
| hn vinhf o1do ~ fho