Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1889-10-18
CANADA.
vARENNEs, p. O., Oct. 8, 1888!

ia Nouvelle France" 1t is true, was
conquered by the English, and the En-
glish flag now floats where once so
hung the tri-color of the
French. But England has conquered no
farther.
The nation itself is intact. The Ian
guage and people remain uncontaminated.
Their literature remains, their spirit re-
mains, and their numbers are increasing
with rapidity that is alarming to their
conquerors. And as l. Ancienne France
under the magic wand of Jeanne dare
arose from her captivity to English rule,
so will La Nouvelle France yet arise
from hers, when as an Independent State
she becomes part of the great American
Republic.
Varennes is small village upon the
east shore of the st. Lawrence, some 16
miles below Montreal. 1t is unpreten-
tious, as is everything in La Nouvelle
France, except perhaps the churches.
This inn directly faces the river, whose
banks here are of very comfortable
hight. 1t is two-story house. neatly
i'm order outside and in. In the office
there is bar licensed to sell sprituous
liquors. Here at one corner is large
stove with an excellent fire. The loun
gers, and there are several, all talk
French and they talk nothing else. Pos
al l,ia hou nho
little the contour of the face and the
moulding of the form, but the atmos-
phere is entirely French, and so is the
great level campagne that floats off to the
blue sky. Opening from the office with
rising step is sitting room, at the oval
center table of which am writing. This
room is papered with a design of roses
and its ceiling Is of wood. 1t has large
old-fashioned sofa, near to which stands
the constantly called for in Canada,
baby wagon. Then there are two sewing
machine and a side writing table. Both
windows have double sashes, with the
thickness of the wall, perhaps eight inch
es, between. French newspapers are scat
tered about the room and there are no
others. With double doors, this room
opens into the dining-room on one side,
and into a hall on the other, beyond
which is parlor, and from which rises
pair of stairs to the second floor, where
are numerous bedrooms, neatly furnish
ed, and another parlor.
The good housewife is strongly-buit
French matron of 80, who looks the ex-
cellent housekeeper she is, and talks
English leetle. She has young daugh-
ter with the Gallo eye, soft and full of
passion. who waited upon the table, and
glides very prettly about the rooms.
And all this is in America and within a
hundred and fifty miles of the homes OF
Addison county.
Wednesday afternoon left Middlebury
for Montreal and that mythical horse
region below it, from which so many OF
the famous horses of America have
sprung. At Essex Junction we changed
cars, and at st. Adams we had lunch
The night came on soon after. There was
short delay at St. Johns, and then we
came to Montreal Here there is a large
fine depot. From it we were driven to
the Windsor Hotel, one of the best on the
continent. Saturday we went by cars
to LaChine. Here there is ferry. Under
stormy sky the st. Lawrence went
scowling by. From afar it came with its
vast volume of water fastening to that
extreme North whence alone it can EN-
erge into the ocean. A ferry boat APP
preached. of the true Canadian breed
and from it French carts, French loads
of hay and French horses are unloaded
We got on and are taken to the Other
shore, where is a stone quarry, and neal
by small half breed village with it'
small houses, its small store, its church
and plank walks. At one of these house:
we had dinner and seldom does dinner
taste better. The bread and the butter
were excellent, as were also the tea ant
tomato preserves the steak and the pc
good, it was half-breed house and no
very neat. After dinner had an interview
with the old French driver who lvet
here. We recrossed the river by thu
long railroad bridge and so reached {
lower depot in about two miles on thu
other side. Here was an Englishman
and he was as English as though he ha'
never left old Albion's shores. Here al
so was a young American driver will
whom our French dryer arranged t.
take us to Cote des' Neiges. 1t was al
English cart we went in, very much re
sembling one of our milk carts. w
stopped to look at the Hambletonial
stallion Homdel by Hermes. He is o
that sort that one does not care to Sc
but once. Too much legs in length ant
too fine in quality.
Our road was macadamized. Farm
adorned it and many houses, with a
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