The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-02-27
COMBINATIONS OF COLOR.
IN DEMAND FOR HOUSE AND STREET.
Many New Designs Delight the Eye-The
Revival of Old StyIes-A Return of
the Spanish FIounce-Fads
of All Sorts.

Never were colors more beautifully CON-
bined in all parts of the toilet than now. The
energies of talors and dressmakers are devoted
to the study OF this important subject quite as
much 70 the shape and proper fit of the
tailor-made gown or the popular directoire pol
onaise. Violent contrasts are particularly
avoided, plain and figured materials when used
together being lined with another connecting
tint so arranged as to give the desired harmony
to the whole. Redingote or polonaise costumes
have coat or plain gathered backs and slightly
draped fronts AS rule skirts are from
quarter to three-eights OF a yard wider
than for several seasons past, being two
and three-quarter yards around. Empire
gowns have but a single reed At the
back, and that is twelve inches long and placed
twelve inches below the waist-band. Pretty
costumes of mixed goods have plain round
skirts, and long overdreSses finished with
very wide hem and natty tght-ftting jackets
are made TO replace the heavy winter one OF
seal skin or chamois-lined cloth. These jack
cts have wide collars and cuffs OF velvet and
full sleeves OF the same rich material. As
q rule polonaises cover completely the gored
foundation skirt. A handsome model of this
kind shows the back pieces and side
forms OF the Overgarment, continued In
pointed shape to form a short basque, to
which several full breadths are attached
and a broad sash disposed in two deep loops
and ends is placed over the Joining. novel
and very pretty feature is in having the skirt
fronts of the pOlOnaise twice the length of the
foundation skirt and lined with silk OF con-
trasting color. This IS doubled under and
drawn uD 10 the waist-iine and closed partly
over the front OF the skirt with fancy crOcheted
ornaments.and buttons, leaving the outside OF
the coat to hang loosely open. 1t is a very be-
coming and stylish model, giving the long,
straight eject and the wide sash that Is so pop
ular. 1t is suitable for ordinary as well as
dressy wear, and can be made of silk and
wooden materials, velvet and wool, or velvet
and silk The pOlOnaise would be hand
some of velvet with silk skirt,
the long tab fronts lined with
silk like the skirt, with silk and
onaise, and silk sash. A lovely costume for
early spring wear may be made OF dark blue
serge, plain, and in brOche robe effect, show
ing various dull brown and gray shades The
front, sides, and center back of the skirt of
robe material, the brOche being around the
foot of the skirt where it is finished by band
of black fur. On each side of the back are two
long straight breadths OF brown velvet
gracefully arranged drapery of plain serge is
on each side of the skirt meeting in front at
the waist line. and joining the velvet widths at
the back. The cOrsage of the plain serge is
fulled slightly on each shoulder, partly drap-
ing a vest of brown velvet, and at each side of
the surpliee is band OF broche match
ing the skirt. A belt of velvet crosses
half the front, and the close sleeves and high
collar are trimmed to match. Red cloth
redingotes are stylish with vests of pearl white
broadcloth thickly covered with arabesques OF
gold or copper cord. Black cloth redingotes
are frightened by narrow piping or fold or
yellow or red on the edges OF the revers collars
and cuffs. Redingotes of matelasse or other
heavy brocaded fabrics are very elegantly
trimmed with a fur border that is from twelve
to sixteen inches deep, and vests of fur are also
added. stylish redlngOte costume has
plain black velvet skirt, with the long gray
ladies' cloth overgarment, opened at the
back and trimmed with black monkey fur.
The waist front turns back over q vest OF
black velvet, and just below the Understanding
collar of black velvet is band OF tur eX-
tending down one side of the front. The
coat closes with large black crochet buttons
and fiat silk braid loops, The loose sleeves
have cuffs of fur. Among new midwInter
street costumes Is green serge ana velyet
dress that is quite original in design. The
green velvet is introduced on the skirt and
forms the side pieces TO the back and Is also
used as a Swiss belt The skirt is draped high
on one side and has panel OF rich
gold and green embroidery in which
appear occasional threads of vieux rose and
creamcolored silk. There are short square
Jacket fronts to the waist, between which is a
putting of velvet. The sleeves have puff OF
brown velvet at the shoulder and cuffs of the
same at the bottom. Another handsome toilet
is of dull green, embroidered in black. The
front is plain and edged with embroidery
caught up at the side over plated skirt. A
directOire back and waIstcOat of the plain
goods has revers OF black watered silk. Zouave
Jacket fronts of the embroidery, with
full sleeves gathered into pointed
cuff of the watered silk. The silk Is again
seen in the broad sash that is arranged to fall
at the left side Dresses Of the Empire style are
very pretty with tab fronts and are made in the
following manner: The underSkrt OF fine wool
has full back and pleated sides OF the same.
The bodice il of wool, with one side of faille
and two long tabs, ten inches on the lower
edge and four inches at the top OF the faille,
which falls fiat on the skirt from beneath the
basque. These are lined with silk, have an in
terlining OF thin crlnollne, aud vide fringe on
the ends.
All the indications point to a return of the
Spanish iounce. This is piece of information
that will be appreciated by the tall, thin woman
whose hight and lack of breadth have been
mercessly tried by the prevailing modes. One
of the models shown has this hounce effect IN
its construction, the three front breadths OF the
foundation skirt being overlaid with plating
of wool, the lower part of which flies loose
from just below the knee. The trimming is
OF rows OF narrow watered ribbon.
Pretty house jackets for wear with contrast
ing skirts of cloth with revers OF velvet open
ing over a frilled vest OF surab silk, China
Grape. or one of cloth The high collar and
deep cuffs should either match the vest or be
pped with some of the same material. ANY
skirt of dark wool i'm plaids or stripes or
mixed effects is the thing to wear with these
swell jackets; also skirt OF black silk or al
paca These jackets are cut very much Ike
the street coats OF several seasons past, with
a cross-basque seam just below the curve of
the waist and then having added coat-tail
piece Of at least eight inches deep. All above
the waist-line is snugly whaleboned to keep it
in proper shape, while the coat-tail has
casional short darts TO 6t it smoothly. ANY of
the gray or fawn shades, with vests and revers
oil scarlet, green, blue or pink is stylish; also
the dark blues, greens or browns.
Fashion, Latest Fads.
It is predicted that Easter gowns and bonnets
shall be of brilliant red.
Paris is just now enjoying all sorts OF pretty
tribes made from sage and grass-green leather.
The newest new wrinkle in dessert doylies is
of lace, fan-shaped with sticks of gold or silver
braid.