Pittsburg dispatch. [volume] (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, 1889-07-28
THE SWALLOW
E. Berry Wall Talks Familiarly
About the Full-Dress Coat.
A PLEA FOR KNEE BREECHES.
Why Englishmen Succumb to American
Drinking Habits.
FASCINATING BUT FATALMIxED DRINKS
CORRESPONDENCE OF THE DISPATCH ]

discussion among young men as TO the use
of what is known as the summer dress coat,
meaning thereby black sack with roll
ing collar and worn with the conventional
low-cut black vest and black trousers. It
is a sensible garment when worn seasonably,
but it must always be borne in mind that it
is not part of ceremonious attire. 1t is a
light, airy, comfortable piece of dress, and
we'll fitted for the informal gatherings OF the
hot season when most of the staid formali-
ties of the winter are set aside. For seaside
hops, for escorting ladies to the theater and
even for dinner parties in country houses,
the summer dress suit is admirably adapted,
and its use is sensible and commendable.
For formal gatherings, however, such, for
instance, as dinner given to honor an in
dividual or commemorate an anniversary or
an occasion, the summer dress suit is en-
tirely out of place, and we must place our
selves in tight embrace of the full-fedged
swallow tail.
The sway of the swallow-tail, by the way,
is the most arbitrary in the world of dress.
Its reign will outlive generations yet to
come. Many but futile efforts have been
made to break away from its bonds. Enter
prising society youths, determined to send
1t into exile, have cast themselves against
the iron wall of dress conventionalism only
to fall back utterly crushed in spirit. A
slight breach In the custom which holds us
was attempted two years ago by the young
men who suddenly blossomed forth in
PLUM-CoLoRED swALLow-TAILs,
but they soon faded out of sight. We may
make brief summer time escape through
the medium of the sack coat compromise to
which have referred and we may, as we do
now, make a great show of courage by de-
claring that broadcloth is bad form for
dress suits and that only fine diagonal is
proper, but through all these petty attacks,
the swallow-tail rules triumphant 1t is
not beautiful, it is not graceful, it is rarely
comfortable, but it has clutch upon US
which cannot be shaken off.
The most frequently expressed objection
to the swallow-tailed coat, that it permits no
distinction in appearance between guests
and servants in the dining room, is not,
however, a valid one. The attire of servants
is a matter which is in every masters con-
troll. Why could not the servitors be dis
tinguished by the wearing of knee breeches,
if you please? That reminds me OF now last
season half dozen New Workers practiced
the reverse of that proposition and at
evening dress for men. Their daring has
not heretofore been recorded. They move
in the most exclusive circle in society,
Whether or not their feelings had been ex-
asperated by their being mistakingly
ordered to perform some menial service at a
swell reception 1 am unable to say, but
they determined upon an innovation in
evening attire. By prearrangement they
appeared one night at a small but formal
gathering arrayed in the conventional dress
suit, but the trousers terminating abruptly
at the knees, the costume thence continuing
in pair of black silk stockings and pair
of pumps. They certainly won attention If
not admiration.
A LACK OF COURAGE.
They wore those costumes throughout the
season, but never had the audacity TO ap-
pear in them at large gatherings or on pub
lie occasions. They exhibited them only in
their own social clique, and never without
the support of their united presence. But
they have found no imitators, and candor
compels me TO record that the departure was
not a success. Folks seem disposed to make
sneering allusions to the young mems calves,
which 1 may state confdentially were
slightly padded. But the revelation of
that fact need cause them no shame.
Few of us can, with any degree of pride,
put our legs to the test OF the nee-breeches,
and in this we resemble, popular belief to
the contrary, our ancestors for generations
back. 1 have examined many specimens of
mems garments of centuries ago, and 1 have
found almost invariably that where knee
breeches were used, the stockings were
thickened largely at the calves. The sturdy
Englishman of to-day resorts to the same
aid to symmetry. AT the Queens drawing
rooms and the Prince of Wales levees the
gentlemen who attend are obliged to wear
knee-breeches and black silk stockings, and
the best built swells in London have the
greatest pains taken with their hose, in
order that judicious thickening in the right
places will enable them to present, at least,
the appearance of possessing well-turned
leg. In that, 1 think, they display only
Christian consideration for the feelings of
others. They do no one any harm Iby the
slight deception, and they give qualification
to the admiring eyes of charming woman.
1t may not be popular to say so, but think
the knee-breeches costume very
BEAUTIFUL AND ATTRACTIVE.
never heard any contempt expressed
for George Washington on account of his
displaying the contour of his calves, and 1
never knew that Benjamin Franklin suffered
in public esteem because his trousers only
reached to his knees. But custom nowadays
says otherwise, and we who are its creatures
must bend to the yoke of the swallow-tailed
coat with vest cut low and trousers cut
long.
If any young man wishes to make a hit
and lead where others are sure to follow, let
him adopt the latest English fad In the mat
ter of dress. Only yesterday 1 received
letter from a friend in London, who Is one
of the best dressed men in the British King
dom and the brother of an Earl, in which
he describes the attire newly adopted by the
swells of London. To begin with, the hat
is a high white one, the use of which was
tabooed this season and last by we'll dressed
men in all the Eastern cities, the derby sup
planting it. But as have said it is now
reinstated in swell favor in London, and con-
sequently it is as certain as day to be in
vogue next seuson, in New York, anyhow
That may not be altogether creditable to New
York. but it is true. With this hat the London
swells wear a frock coat, either of slate or tan
color, trousers of the same material, and a
white vest The coat is made SO that it will
slightly roll, and is never buttoned. The neck
tie is the oldest feature of this costume. 1t is
wrapped twice around the neck and then tied
in a semblance Of the "chokers' of half a GEN.
tury ago. The man who has the courage to
appear thus arrayed will be in advance of next
seasons fashions If the edoubly-neck- -enfolding
cravat comes into general use there will be
much rivalry among young men as to their
is much more general attention paid to neck
ties than ever before. This is largely owing to
their remarkable cheapness, and is also due to
the increasing attention which the men of this
country bestow on dress. All well-dressed men
now realize that they must tie their own
NJ .s<.t. &c