The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1889-09-25
THE FASHIONS,
Early French Dresses for Autumn
Cashmere and Cameps Hair Gowns.


Early French Dresses for Autumn
Cashmere and CameIs Hair Gowns.
The first French dresses imported for
autumn repeat many of the designs
brought out late in the summer by Pa
rislan modiStcS. Round waists full
sleeves aud straight skirts reappear with
variations. Jacket waists and elaborate
fronts of corSages remain in vogue and
bas1ues are not wholly abandoned
Some features of the directoire coat are
retained, and new ones are added. Pas
sementerie, braiding, fur and feathers,
with velvet cut bias and also velvet rib
bonS, are the trimmings of the first
dark dresses. The round waist is with
out darts, and, paradoxical us it may
sound, is slightly pointed in front
and back. 1t has but few seams, and
may be either plain or full on the shoul-
ders; its fullness below is pleated or
gathered to the points at the waist line,
and it is trimmed there by vandyke
points of embroidery or of passemen-
terie, or else it is; edged by a folded
ribbon, fastened by a bow without ends
on the left side. The round, shallow
yoke, so often mentioned, will still be
made of velvet, silk, MORE or embroi
derry, or Of the dress material covered
by passementerie The high standing
collar and mutton-legged sleeves will be
made for most woolen dresses; cloth
dresses, however, seldom have very full
sleeves, as they cannot be worn under Il
cloth jacket or fitted coat. The skirts
of new dresses are hung to appear almost
straight, yet those of heavy fabrics have
one or two short steelS in their founda-
ton skirt, merely to support them, not
to add to their size; the pad bustleS are
omitted altogether. The fronts and sides
of many skirts are perfectly fiat, while
all are made full in the back by means
of gathers or pleats, or some lengthwise
jabot folds.
The artuleau, or artilleryman's coat,
is pretty little basque-waist, with the
Jacket fronts opening over vest,
square-cornered and bordered with Il
band of embroidery, while the two
broad middle forms of the back have Il
dull point like loose jacket, and are
also bordered.
Shot velvets, both plain and figured,
and shot moire ribbons will be much
used for parts of dresses, for wraps and
for bonnets or their trimmings. Mauve
is shot with gold, brown with green, or
gold with brown, red with blue and
green with red, producing many new
effects. The dahlia pruue, and old.
fashioned puce colors are seen in many
new fabrics and promise to be popular.
Chocolate with much cream in it will be
a stylish shade for autumn and green is
combined with this shade. The gray
greens are shown in dark and in light
shades in fine woolens and are made up
with velvet Of the new mahogany shade
called in Paris le Buffalo Bill.
The first autumn dresses will be Of
cashmere or of camel's hair, in shades
of dahlia, castor brown, grayish blue,
Eiffel red or mahogany, trimmed with
black pointed passementerie or six cords
in open designs. The round waist, full
and slightly pointed, will be trimmed
with three vandyke points of the gimpin in
front, and sometimes in the back also,
beginning Just below the collar, and on
the shoulders; that in the middle is the
deepest; and to hold it we'll tie cash
mere of the waist should be Tapped to
the left shoulder, and hooked from the
left shoulder down, though the waist
lining is hooked in front The fulness
in front and back is drawn in small
pleats to the points at the waist line.
No darts are seen, and there is not
more than one side form; indeed,
in the genuine French waist the
only seams are those under the
arms. The standing collar is fast
ened on the left side, and should
be covered with passementere. The
sleeves are in one piece, full at the top
and shaped to fit the arms below the ell
bow. A point of passementerie is placed
at the top, pointing downward, and at
the wrists, pointing upward. Black
ribbon, three inches wide, is folded less
than two inches in width, and laid
smooth around the pointed end of the
waist, fastening on the left side with a
bow. The straight round skirt mounted
on q foundation skirt. is trimmed all
around the foot, or else only in front
and on the sides, with upturned points
of the black paSsementerie. These
straight skirts should not have their
placket-hole opening in front or back,
button one side, usually the left, as it
can best be kept closed there. 1t is also
a good plan to permanently attach the
belted skirt to the waist, tacking the
belt across the back and sides of the
pointed bodice inside at the waist line.
Short sleeveless jackets Of velvet, of
faille or of moire, will form the bodies
of many dresses Of silk or of fine wool.
The dress material will be down the
middle of the front of the waist, Shirred
closely at top and bottom, or drooplns
in blouse fashion. The little square
jacket Of velvet will fall open to show
the front 1t is without revels, reaches
only to the waist line, and is square cor
nered The back may be straight across
the waist or slightly pointed, and some
times two tabs are added in basque
fashion. Silk cord in brailing patterns
trims velvet jackets. Silk jackets are
sometimes black on colored dresses, and
are then faced with the color of the
dress. and may have reyerS of the same;
or black moirc jacket on Henrietta
cloth waist may have green or mahogany
revers and collar, and cord to match on
the edge. Rather large, full sleeves of
the dress goods are with these jackets
H1rLel'S Buzuy