Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1889-12-18
NEW YORY FASHIONS.
HOLIDAY MISUNDERSTANDING GOWNS
MATERIALs-ANswERs AND NOTES.

HOLIDAY COSTUMES GOWNS
MATERIALs-ANswERs AND NOTES.
TFrom our Female Fashion Correspondent
In holiday costumes there is psrcepti-
BILE blending of classic ideas, especially in
corsages, not few of which by reason of
folds and crossings on the front, seem to
drape rather than encase the figure, how
ever encased in reality it may be beEsath
such adornments. limitations of dresses
worn in the long ago, when sharp pointed
bodices and small paniers were in vogue,
are noticeable among new Opera and ball
costumes, while Recamier gowns come in
for a share of attention. Elegant fabrics
are employed with comparatively small
amount of garniture but in the latter styles,
| folds of silk tulle across the bodice are ar
ranged very gracefully. In some classic
gowns, the darts on the corsage are quito
| hidden and the skirts permanently at
tached to the waist with perhaps a slight
| train at the back, and the same holds good
regarding Empire dresses. New costumes
both for day and evening, are often made
also with the fronts all in one, tho breadth
of goods being merely plated at the waist
and then skilfully drawn about the figure.
Princess dresses for evening are in great
| vogue, because the fall at the back Ia
graceful without the support of hustle,
one or more reeds, however, being placed
| to keep the drapery from falling in.-
Waists with point at the back and straight
front are also quite fashionable, while
Empire outlines more or less modified, are
chosen for light fabrics worn by young peo-
pie. Here the sash comes in effectively
and tied softly, and in its entire width
about the waist, gives quaint LOOK to the
wearer.
EVENING MATERIALS.
Tulle remains in great favor for young
ladies and is still made up skirt over skirt
in ballet style. Gauges, dIapery nets,
crepe de chine, crepons, and light quality
silks give change, however, and the
spangled nets and GAUGES are prettily COM
| bined with plain, the former of course oom-
posing the front or the front and sides Of
| the dress with back breadths of the plain.
These various light quality goods are made
up with simplicity, but may be elaborately
finished by flowers or ribbon, while many
are with design left simple so as to display
the sash which is draped to fill out de-
ficiencies at the back and more or less ar
tistically wound about the corsage.
THE SUPERB BRocADEs
| of the season are made up in princess out
lines that partake more of the costume or
ordnde toilette character and here it is that
trains or those complications of material
and finish come in which were mentioned
in a former letter. The Oriental display at
| the Exposition has affected silks and both
| for afternoon and evening, superb gowns
show Turkish, Arabian, Persian and other
Eastern patterns not oUly in fabric but
rare embroideres done on silk or fine
cloth, the latter being ylish for afternoons
or dinners Trains are sometimes quite
long and either round or square, with pref
erepce for the first named, but dancers of
course dispense with so cunbrous an ac-
cessory and they arc relegated to dowagers.
In the cut of sleeves, there is endless d.
versity and stylish idea is to have lace
drspsd about the bodice and then fall SO as
TO form the sleeve or the sleeve of lace
may present contrast to the gown of some
heavy fabric or fabrics. The no sleeve of
former seasons is not, however, popular,
but is replaced by a succession of straps
about the arm that go far 10 becomingness
where the arm is too long. Necks are of
all heights aud shapes with convenient
filling in of lace where some protection is
desirable. Gloves correspond in length
with sleeves and are invariably of undressed
kid in Shades Of tap, gray or white. Half
high shoes for afternoon or dinner or slip
pers for evening ale of undIessed kid to
match gloves or may correspond with the
dress, the hosiery also in keeping. Shapes
are with sharp-ponted toes and Louis
Ouinze heels and tan is very popular be-
cause suiting any costume.
ANSWERS AND NOTES.
s'Ellen." Follow your own fancy in
furnishing. Mrs. Cls7eland's guest cham
ber has an old.fashioned high-post bedstead
with vslences, and she has also many old
pieces of furniture elsewhere in her new
home on Madison Avenue.
"Mrs NJ" You may safely use Clark's
Mile End cotton as substitute for sewing
silk. 1t is SO used by dressmakers here
aud gives satisfaction because Of its
strength, smoothness and elasticity. Be-
Sides as you know, it comes in the Few
oolors and ib consequence is adapted to all
kinds of work. The white is very popular
wherever white spool cotton may be sp-
propriate.
Bangles are extremely popular and the
same can be said of bracelets. A new idea
in diamond rings is to have three different
colored stoues set together. as for example,
q pure white, blue and yellow in
Marquise setting. Hoop earrings of
diamonds resemble loops of light and hoops
of chased or eDamsed gold are very pretty
aud stylish. Necklaces of strung beads are
in great demand, pearls coming first, and
secondly gold or silver. Lace pins are not
so much worn now as brooches or fancy de-
signs, such al crescents, stars, flowers, etc.
Closely set gems in brooch form give
variety.
Large "Kendal" collars made of laco
are much liked for afternoon or in the
evening for semi dress. Other shapes in
large collars which are now feature in
dress, are the Medici, Abbe Gallant, Marie
Antoinette, Mousquetaire and Nuns; the
last being especially for mourning aud
made in hcmstitched muslin or fine
cambria.
Braidipg on cloth has reached the mania
stage and entire dresses are overrun with
vines, leaves, berries, palm patterns and
even birds and insects.
Boas of crepe lisse are extremely fash-
ionabIe at the Opera. Astrakhau and Per-
sian lambskin bands are well initiated in
soft wool at moderate cost and long haired
plush Stimulates fur.
Semi-precious gems, amber, jet, silver,
ivory or tortoise shell are set or wrought
in innumerable pretty ornaments for
Josephine, Greek, or Pompadour coiffures.
FIlets of gold or silver cOnfne tresses done
up in Roman style and the very wealthy of
course may wear precious stones or the
most expensive shell or metal.
RosALIND MAY.
l. 4 11uurrr rra1 10 10