Omaha daily bee., 1889-04-25
AS ARTISTS SEE THEM.
New York Critics on Travelling Styles
I'm Mems Dress.

IN Nten g Dress.
A writer for the Mems Outfitter has
been interviewing few of the leading
artists in New York on the subject of
the prevailing fashions in mems dress,
Mr.. William Hart said among other
things
"Regarding the present fashions in
mems dress is not pleasing to the artis
tic eye. 1t certainly is not beautiful,
and besides this it is, with now and then
an exception, not becoming. Your hat
ter tells you that a silk hat of a certain
shape is the style, and you must wear
it, irrespective of the fact that it's lines
are out of harmony with the lines of
your face. II it were left to the good
artist to create modes in dress he
would certainly Danish the stove pipe
hat
And what hat in current use comes
nearest your idea, Mr.. Hart?'
''The sort worn by Mr.. William f.
Cody buffalo Billy. 1t is full of soft
lines, and can by a touch here and there
by the wearer be made very becoming
to almost any face.
Regarding the selection of colors In
neclwear, Mr.. Hart said: Too much
preference Is given by most men to what
are called rage shades. One should
wear the color that is suitable to him,
wear is artistic when it becomes the
wearer. a brunette can wear anything
that has yellow or red in it. The blonde
cannot play with these colors. They
make guy of him. He must keep to
the blues. He requires light colors, in
variably tending toward blues. Certain
varieties of blondes can indulge in the
pinks. Black and white are, of course,
safe for all compilations. Too much
white - unrelieved white, that is
figures in gentlemen evening costume.
The plain white shirt bosom Is a shape
less form, destitute Of artistic matter.
Then there is so much of it to steal
away the interest that belongs to the
face, especially as it is surrounded by
IN tense black, which makes the bosom
extra conspicuous and diStracting. If
the bosom were ruffled it would provide
the eye of the onlooker with what the
artist calls suggestive matter. The
embroidered shirt bosom like because
the decorations, though destitute of life
and color, serve somewhat to relieve
the monotony OF plain white"
Mr.. S. j. Guy was asked by the writer
what he thought, from an artistic stand
point. of modern dress. "Egad, he re-
sponded, sits most abominable AM ything
but treat to the eye; not in one single
detail is it really picturesque. 1t isn't
from an artistic standpoint. Could
there be anything more hideous than II
hard, stiff shirt-bosom, a straight eX
panse OF white with nothing to relieve
it? OF course, we now and then see u
tucked and embroidered bosom, but the
majority OF mon, except for evening
dress wear, are timid about adopting
them. The fancy-patterned flannel and
calico shirts are relief to the eye, but
we get them only in the summer. [
would hail the return of Florentine ruff
fes and their accompanying details.
The great defect in to-day's habiliment
is its rigidIty, gloominess, absence of
variety. Again, patterns in cloths are
either dashing tothe verge of vulgarity
or so quiet that they apprcaoh insipid
ity, The beautiful medium is seldom
produced. BY the way, did you ever
notice how clumsy man looks bundled
up in a winter overcoat; it's the most
ungraceful garment in the list"
well, but what would you substi-
tute?"
Substitute? Why the plaid worn by
the highlanders. 1t protects the stom-
ach, chest, back and shoulders, but
leaves the arms free and does not en-
| cumber the legs. 1t is slightly. manly
wrap, and has no superiiuous material
about 1T. :"
II see, Mr.. Guy, that you wear The
style of frock-coat called the Prince
Albert, do you consider it more grace
full than the cut-a-way or the sack?"
1.-THE sack is a very ugly coat, though
convenient: the cut-a-way Is not pleas
ing for the reason that it tends to COM
press the chest and throw out the
stomach. The Prince Albert sets off
the figure better than either OF these,
and when we'll worn imparts an air OF
dignity; but its long skirts are objec-
( tionable.
Mr.. Walter Satterlee isanother artist
who has given some thought to the sub
iect under consideration.
Said Mr.. Satterlee among other
things: 1.-THE main objection to the
present order of mems attire is its lack
of grace. 1t is mechanical, harsh and
stif-looking. How would a full length
figure of Edwin Booth dressed in the
costume he wears off the stage look In
marble? Surely, not very artistic, you
will agree. II would show clothing, but
not the beauty Of the human form.
Therefore, | say, what Is needed is
garmenture that will reveal little, ut
least, of ones honest shape. Knee
breeches would be holp."
"Do you admire the full dress worn
by the men who attend the queens
drawing rooms?"
st is decidedly better than the trous-
ers ana the swallow tail worn formal