The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1889-09-22
stranded nm there like the ark on Ara

evening. The lake was as blue as the
sky. and the sky as clear as the lake
Bellagio cleaned in the distance on the
other side. We took a rowboat, and,
pulled by two lusty Italian oarsmen,
crossed lhrougkthe twilight. How soft
and how sad the summer twilight Is
As it deepened the white villas along
the margin faded out and left only the
blue sky above. resting on the darker
mountains. with the lights twinkling al
their feet.
We went first 10 the Grand Hotel, q
quite magnificent looking structure
bat finding that the swindling. which
TO anv reasonable extent we were pre-
pared for. was quite disproportIonately
magnificent we left and went to the
Grand Hotel Bretagne. where we got
delightful rooms and spent quiel
night. Next morning we r0red acros;
to the beautiful Villa Carl0tIa, where
we spent an hour looking at the fine
sculDtOrs and sauntering through the
BEAUTIFUL gardens In the Central Hall
is a W nderful frioze by Thorwaldsor
representing the triumph OF Alexander
and many marbles by Carnova. Among
them Is the famous
CUPID AND PSYCHE,
which is more like classical master
piece than any modern sculpture have
ever seen. The airy grace and perfect
beauty of these two figures are un
equaled in the art of recent times.
The story of Cupid and Psyche is
truly the story Of love aud the soul.
Cupid Is not the mischief loving sou OF
Venus. whose pranks were SO favorite
a theme with the ancients. but Is the
nobcr offspring of purer mother
whose kiss had the god like power tc
transform Psyche into a living soul
The story is the produce Of Christianity.
Ii possesses a spiritual significance. All
this the master had thrown into his
work.
We left the orange gardens and cool
bowers of the Villa Carlotte with re-
uctance. and after few hours sail
down that most beautiful of lakes, were
AT the station. from which we took
TRAIN FOR MILAN.
One Of the things that struck me was
that nearly all the gate keepers along
the railroads in Italy were women. and
they usually had baby in their arms,
OF course. the first thing we did vas
TO 70 Immediately TO the cathedral and
then to the old Reftctory. on the damp
wall o which is the historical picture
# The Lust supper. by Leonardo de
NinCi. The Jampuess has pealed lakes
from the painting. which stretches en-
tifely across the end Of the apartment.
but though the beauty Is married, enough
remains To give a complete idea OF the
divine dignity and grace which the
painter threw into the face and form
II the Master. One thing struck Us.
the upset salt cellar. which Is usually
seen IN the engrayings at Judas elbow.
L. wanting i'm the original picture. and
Iscarot is designated by his crafty face
and by the bag he grasps. The salt
cellar was added by some c0pyist long
ago. who had been brought up on the
superstition. and has been inserted IN
all the engravings since that time. Ma
pO!eOn stabbed his horses IN this Reiec-
tory a hundred years or less ago.
From here we returned 10 the cathe-
dral. here W spent sometime. The
front view from the plaza is certainly
very fine. but was disappointed. too
much detail mars the beauty and de
str0ys the grandeur aud the innum-
cradle ponts and minutes of which
30 much boast il made leave sense Of
wonderful gingerbread. L. looked like
a vast white cake. zZlni5 best eff
fort. said Mr.. \. 10 expressed it eX-
actly.
one should never see the Cathedral
At Cologne before seeing that at Milan.
It sets the taste. After Cologne one
becomes exacting IN the matter Of
cithodIals. Even inside the noble
beauty with which We had become ia
miliar. and which we had learned to
expect il marred by an imitation Of
carved stone with winch the vauited
roof is frescoed. Ii 1t were not for
these defects the Cathedral at Milan
would b. ~ impressive as tits splendid.
We bad a good drive around the city.
visiting all the principal points. II was
- mot as IL is no Richmond M the sum
mer SD we did not exert ourselves. but
were content 10 sauuter on the shady
side If tie narrow streets. one OF the
points we visited was the cemetery.
where. under an arcade. are the
tOmbs of The principal families. each
having 20 monumental design, which
ms ks the arcade look like statue
gallery. Some Of them are by the finest
sculptOrs. There Is q so here what was
a novelty 10 me-a place 10 inter the
ashes OF those who bad been cremated.
Tue wall is taken up by spaces like
pigeon-holts. about foot each way.
In these are placed the urus with the
ashes. aud marble tile closes it. bear
ing the name and epitaph.
Il all seemed SO clear aud so free
from horror. 10 accumulated the fact
that the real person Is the spiritual.
As we had to be back in Paris on
Sunday. wc reluctantly took leave Of
Me-sfs. Allison and Carson, who were
going TO Venice. and set out next
morning on our return by way # Lake
MaggiOre. Tie forenoon was perfect,
and "a terrific thunderstorm. when
came rolling down over the Jura Aips
aud bust upon us in the afternoon.
dbl not diminish the interest OF our
trip. for thunderstorm Oh Maggiore
was one Of the things we wished TO see.
We luuched at
lsOLA BELLA,
and then strolled through the splendid
villa. which m beauty surpa-ses con