Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-01-13

and in such a way that the front fell in
easy folds at the back; an extra piece
of the material was draped in n
sort of butterfly bow, giving
some necessary fullness at the
back of the waist. novel intrdcucuCn
is tiny interviewer stripe in a habit
cloth, and this, of a dark-green shade,
had been made into a handsome gown,
trimmed with green and gold braid laid
on bands Of tan cloth; plain tan cloth
revers, with triple buttons and loops,
were placed on the bodice: cuffs to match.
dark-brown diagonal cloth, for
example, had Il braided yoke,
carried out in tinsel, brought
down to the sleeve and end
ing in point above the elbow. The
front of the skirt was slightly draped,
and also the back, the bodice being cut
exactly rs a habit. Green, however,
appears to remain the favOrite color, and
n plain green-faced cloth had rolled
reyers of fancy gold and brown galOOu,
contrasting admirably with the tone of
the material Another cloth dress had II
bodice and disappeared in one
end Mt the waist, the neck
being filed in with plastron. A duck
green striped faced cloth was made with
ii box-pEaited skirt, braided on the col
lars, cuffs and imitation flap pockets,
with braiding laid on tan cloth.
The matter of sleeves has become a
perplexing question, what form to use
with each style, for any blunder in this
important feature of the toilet will
at once betray the amateurishness of
the designer. In general, sleeves are
looser than formerly, even when the coat
form is used Women are beginning to
see that red hands and swollen veins de-
tract from any other beauty the eX-
tresnely tight sleeve is supposed to be-
stow. Leading dressmakers understand
that the sleeve gives character to the
costume, and are becoming skillful
in adapting il TO the general style
and appearance of the wearer.
Variety in the shape set of the sleeves is n
feature of the present fashions. The Gil
got or leg-Of-mutton sleeve may be worn
by slender women, but no stout woman
would increase her proportions by adopt
ing it This newly resuscitated sleeve
has some graceful variations. 1t Of
ten appears in modified form
gathered somewhat below the ell
bow into a deep cuff, with but
tons up from the wrist. The fashion,
also, of making the sleeve from mate
rial differing from the bodice, of plain
material when the polonaise is of figured
fabric or vice versa, is picturesque and
becoming.
Yoke effects are still sought after in all
indoor dresses; even where there is a vest
there is frequently pointed velvet yoke
in front under the revers, and often q
fedora front is shocked or gath
cred into the same. In tea
gowns a yoke front frequently
has the fullness carried in pleats TO the
bottom of the skirt, with braided. en-
broidered or otherwise trimmed side
fronts falling away and caught just be-
low the waist with some antique bejew-
eled clasp There is a certain fondnesS
for what is known rs the capuchin forms
III loose dresses, which means a hood in
the back like a friar's hood, from
beneath which starts the vatican
pleat that gracefully holds the
fullnesS at the back the side forms back
and front loosely defining the figure. IN
such dress the sleeves are loose fitting
coat until past the elbow they become
slightly bell shaped and are met by the
long silk nit so much worn. One. of the
features of the Fart costume are the
silver clasps and silver embroidery that
are very chic and serve TO hold in place