The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-09-07

nave disappeared. A gown is Of tone, not
Color and its perfection is gagged by the
way tne tone Is produced, the degree in
which 1t is preserved.
Tnere is no difficulty about all black. 1t
IS mere question of cost and combination
Oh SIX and velvet, Of lace aud jet, of MORE
ana Iallle, satin being at present out of the
category. "Al whiten calls for more dis
elimination, and is susceptible of more
artistic treatment. There are possibilities
In tlnts and shadOwy suggestions of color;
Dut still the pure ivory tone is so lovely
ana SO generally becom ng that it may well
be considered to leave little to be desired.
THE BEST" BLACK SILK.
1t is curious how permanent a hold a
oest" black silk has obtained upon the
feminine mind, the traditions of it seem to
De handed down from mother to daughter
and SO on for generations. 1t is the dress
that Is saved for, looked for and sometimes
cried over if it should prove deceptive or
the dress maker fail in reaching the standard.
An OBJECT so long anticipated may we'll
cause perplexlty when it is at last within
ones reac b. 1t seems impossible to deal
with it In any simple or ordinary wav.
How shall 1t be mades How shall it be
trlmmeds These are burning questions.
Everybody's brains ara racked for sugges-
tons and everybody falls back upon let
or Jettet passementerie, the most expensive
of all tri innings. Tell the owner that it
does not want trimming and she would be
as greatly disguised as the average patient.
if g doctor should tell him he did not need
medicine.
BEST" dresses are always trimmed, and
usually the Indifferent quality of the fabric
is still farther lowered by the kind of orna-
mentation put upon 1t. Will it do any
good to the happy possessors of black silks
hn rNfa 10
up with full organ folds at the back, slightly
draped 'front.' a full vest bodice, closed ui-
less you are very stout, and sleeves the full
ness of which is brought up TO the shoulder
and arranged in irregular folds nearly I'D
right. Ali the finish required may be OBJ
tanned by mitring the edge of collar and
sleeves and of the sides OF the front as they
meet the vest which may be varied to suit
the occasion. Tne silk Of the dress for
ordinary wear, white canton crepe or corn
colored surah for more dressy occasions
and a narrow black lace over white under
the mitred edges.
A New York lady was very much dis
gusted to find, when she went to Paris, that
she could not buy "jetted lace" any cheaper
than in New York, and that it was hardly
to be found at all The truth is, il could
not be sold to a French woman. 1t is too
frail, and gives too little value for the
LlOnOJ. IL ID 1il <AllloIlCdu ldSnlO1. lU is
made here and sold here; it could hardly be
sold anywhere else, or to any one but an
American woman, for the beads have to be
put on by hand and their weight tears the
net to shredS after a very short time of
wearing, and then the trimming must be
replaced or the silk worn in a defaced CON
dition.
One way of enriching black silk is to
make it up with black velvet bodice The
| lie ~ nPt
with spring collar, which may be lined
with black, white, or tinted silk, and worn
with vest matching the lining. 1t is bet
ter, however, to line with black, ard make
the vests removable, if the basque Is to be
useful.
The new wooden dresses are very simple.
Upon the plain cloths, which are lovely in
color, dark olive and bronze greens, a soft
dark red, gobelin grey and a rich, dark
shade of peacock blue predominating, these
are bands of Persian embroidery, merely
| outlining vest and cutfs-a yard and halt,
two inches wide, no more-but In soft, rich
colors or colors mixed with gold. Other
styles rather more snowy, have asigus in
raised plush and velvet figures and lighter
and darker shades of the ground color for
the froIt of the shirt, for pointed vest or
outline finish of the bodice.
The handkerchief" designs appear for
treated, as they must be, or they would bs
too striking. The colors are da TX, and the
effects obtained by broken lines and by
light and shade in graYs, browns and ecru,
gray blues and olives and bro nS Velvet
will undoubtedly be worl very much by
the eleganteS this season; and design
brought over by one of the returned visitors
to the gay world of Paris may bs sug-
gested. 1t is of dead leaf velvet, with opsn
fronts upon skirt and jacket, which close
over or turn back as was observed last sea-
son. Closed, it becomes a double-breasted
suit, with an edge Of brown fur; open, the
narrow fur bordering becomes an interior
finish, hardly visible, whilegthe reverse
thrown back, disclose lines or figures of
gold embroidery upon rich cream colored
faille forming paneed front to the entire
costume
This effort to make one gown serve two
distinct purposes has never been very sue
cessful in this country, women of real dis
tinction despise it, and it is too costly for
the only class that would be likely TO avail
themselves of it.
SOME NEW TOILETS.
Some pretty dresses have been seen lately
at the stheater worn by ladies who have
| returned early from the country, or who
| have stopped in town on their way from
| seaside resorts to some inland beauty spot
| TO nnlSn Jne season. One OF CneS6 dresses
| was combination of brown and amber
| The sleeveless bodice and a panel laid in
folds were OF amber faille; the full sleeves
with deep cuff a1d the skirt set in organ
| plaits at the back round the point of the
basque, we're of brown silk striped with
velvet. The hat was brown toque with
group Of velvet marigolds and a directoire
cape of brown cloth, the opea standing
lined with amber was used as a wrap on
| leaving the theater.
A rather novel looking toilet was of mar
row stripes in gold upon black, in clusters
the clustered stripes forming collar, cuffs
and laces for the bodice A black sailor hat
was worn with this dress, with band of gold
striped ribbon round it and several rows of
| fine gold braid on the interior edge.
The 'directoiren capes will undoubtedly
take the place of jackets very largely for
| early autumn wear. The first were i'm
ported by Redfern, and were, as described
at the time, composed of four capeS and q
| collar turned down over narrow yoke
The fiat collar is still employed by those
who Ike it and to whom it is becoming, but
many ladies prefer larger OF smaller num-
Der of capes-three or fve-with open
standing collar or ''spring" collar as it is
more frequently termed. These are less
thick and adapt themselves 60 the dress bet
ter at the throat. They are usually fastened
with pretty bronzed or oxydized silver
| clasps.