The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1889-03-02

color. This costume is accompanied by a
large hat of dark green elvet felt, the
crown surrounded by long plumes laid fat
and descending to the shoulder, toe interior
of the brim edged with line of braiding
matching that upon the costume, but al
most invisible.
A home dress for the same lady-a rather
tall and beautiful America ~ that is the
blended type-was of terra-cotta wool,
made whole, draped to one side from the
shoulder and tied round the waist with
sash of terra-cotta silk, knotted on the side
and reaching to the edge Of the skirt. The
belt part was not la d in folds, but caught
here and there, in its gathers, upon a stiff
foundation. The sleeves were full and set
in full cuff of the 81 k.
A novel way of arranging black silk
costume is always desirable. This was very
handsome failie, with soft, sati y flush,
but not coarse grained like faille franchise.
II hung in straight, rich folds at the back
but was paneled in front with inserted
tongues OF reseda green silk, covered with
open lace, embroidered with green silk of
reseda shade in French knots and button
hole stitch. The design was repeated upon
the bodice, upon either side of a full vest of
reseda silk crepe and upon the tops and at
the waists of the sleeves, ~hich had put
tings Of crepe, divided by these elongated
tongues.
The vest was arranged upon thin bust
lining, which WAS independent of the bodice,
and fastened at the back, the silk bodice
having finish of its own. This is a method
often adopted, and one that greatly facii-
tates the crossed effects, which are now so
frequently demanded.
Plain black silk is usually considered as
too fiat, too much wanting in character to
bs adapted to directoire redingote costume.
But very charming one was made recent
ly, which deserves mention. There was q
little touch of white vest at the throat
on one side of which the silk was laid in
Fl @, knife folds; on the other TeperS of
very delicate pas g nelterie. This pas g.
menterie formed the flaps to the side pock-
cts and ornamented the cuffs of the sleeves,
which were tur led up on the arm. There
was no plating visible upon the edge Of the
skirt, but the sides of the redingote were
laid in folds fac and fat, and the back
hung in straight x-plalts, over an almost
in. e cepdble tournure.
A very simple black and white striped
silk, the viii stripe like a twilled cord
laid against q line of black satin, is made
up with full vest of black crepe and cas-
caded with black lace over white Italia
valenciennes round the neck and down the
81 o of the full front to the waist. The
gathered DO lice is ARA lged with soft
black belt and sa 81 of crepe.
There will be great rage for embroid-
cred and printed muslins, white and col
ored, on delicate grounds during the coming
ason, because they make up so we'll in
straight skirts. The ne west styles revive
| the borders in graceful pa terms round the
bottom of the skirt; borders between which
and the SIN Ill designs upon the upper part
Of the skirt, there is no abrupt transition,
but gradual lessening until the lines are
lost in the soft blending of shades or Fl cures
in the folds.
The gathered bodice will undoubtedly be
more fashionable than ever; but the SUI plice
waist which had it all its own way last
year will divide the honorS with the futed
folds of the Grecian bodice this season, and
the full sleeves be partly superseded by the
flowing and loose, open sleeve of thirty
years ago.
There is talk Of reviving the spencer" of
fifty years ago. and in iced the shocked and
gathered bodices are a close appro zach to il.
A spelcer of black silk, with ruffie of lace
over a white or light muslin skirt, accom-
panied by large. black. chip hat and
plumes, would 10 k well upon moderately
tail and slender young American girl, and
it is to b. hoped some of them will try it.
One of the gowns to be worn at the in
auguration ball is dead leaf velvet, the
skirt just lifted, revealing a petticoat of
daffodil satin, edged with moss ruching.
The agrafe which holds the folds is of
Genoese workmanship and confines girdle
OF the same style and period (siXteeath CEN
tury). The bodice is cut square, with
tther narrow outstanding collar and the
sleeves are to the elbow; the front Of the
bodice and the sleeves draped, instead of
rufflsd, with old Venetian lace. A magnifi-
cent necklace of Opals and diamonds will
be worn vita this dress.
A dress prepared for young girl, is Of
the palast pink silk tulle, over the most
delicate shell-pink silk. There are three
tulle skirts and interior plaiJings to the TX
one, but no exterior sign of tuck or ruffle
or any accessory to break the perfect1c>. Ct
line or the charm of color which is as ex-
quisite as the first flush of dawn. The low
bodice is of the silk, the yelling folds of
tulle, following the lines back and front,
but there are no edgings or other fuish
and no jewels will be worn; only gijves
that reach nearly to the top of the lovely
arms; and are, if possible, of paler and
more delicate tiut than tie dress.
Opposed to tn Sc two costumes is a dress
of almost Darbaric splendor. 1t is a clear
red, brocaded with gold-real gold, not gold
colored silk, although silk is mixed with the
& Id thread 1t opens in fropt upon gold
netting over white satin, and the ornaments
are sh ded ostricl feathers in gold tlnts, ia
clusters.
There is a great deal of talk about EN-
pire" styles; but the French Empire styles
were at first very simole. They we're
copies from Greek models ana were con-
sidered republican revolt from the putfs
and DO Yder, the high head-dresses and
other extravagances Of Marie Antoinettes
reign
Everything modern and that could posi-
bly, be deemed super1uous was gotten rid
of, and the remainder was nothing, if not
antique. Drawers, in those days, had not
been invented for wome wooden under
wear-lano-knit or woven-did not exist
for women, aud the principal and warm
est under garment was closely gored cam
brio petticoat. Stockings we're so fine and
hlmy, as worn by fashionable women, that
they could be passed through finger ring;
and Nine. Tallien is said to have created a
sensation, by appearing without any hose
at all, in sandaled slippers with guided toes.
The sandaled slippers are within the
memory Of many not very old women, and
are already reappearlng in bronze and
satin; but whether We shall return to the
invisible" petticoat of that day, SO adver-
tised by dealers Of the period, remains to
be seen.
The author OF "Reminiscences of a Sep
tuagenariann describes the dress of the
ladies ia Paris in the month of November,
1902 as consisting of "a gown very dec0L-
lete. extremely short wasted, with appa-
rsntly only one light garment under it.
This gown was held up so as to display one
leg, when it was not cut so short as to dis
play both feet and ankles, and thin scarf
or shawl usually hung over one shoulder.