Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1889-07-04


the peculiarly of the gown. 1t is
faced with black velvet. The sleeves are
green, open through all their length
but Joined in two places over under
sleeves of white, and finished at the wrist
with band of black velvet. A velvet
collar fits the throat closely. The same
idea, executed in pink shade of terra
Gotta, over a soft yIeux rose silk, Is very
nice. Printed China silk for an inexpen-
sive, cool tea-gown, leaves nothing to be
desired. To be effective 1T should be mad
full with pulled sleeves and beautifully
trimmed with ribbons. For instance, an
eau de nil silk, patterned with rich dark
blue, would have ribbons matching the
darker shade. One of the new gowns is
combination of cashmere and lace;
pink is the cnlor OF the gown, with a
front of gracefully-draped coffee-colored
lace MedIcis collar, lined with quilliugs
Of lace, and edged with a row of
pearls, is q pretty finish. Another
wooden tea gown is chartreuse green
made with loose upper fronts and close
fitting under dress of the same material,
that is finely tucked at the throat from
three to four inches, with pink picot rib
bon introduced between the tucks making
a touch of color. A cuff of tucks and rib
full. A richer gown is made entirely
of brocade, bright copper shade, with
small patterns, and the front yelled with
fine black Chantilly lace. One of all
white wool has an underdress of white
MarveilleuX and small plastron of
white silk embroidery at the upper part
of the bodice just below the collar
The sleeves, of bell-shape, are very
wide and deep, the points touching the
edge Of the gown, with the upper seam
cut open high on the arm disclosing a
tight sleeve of white satin with embroid-
cred cuff.
Speaking of embroidery brings to mind
the graduating dress of Miss Rookie
teller. She is the daughter of
the autocrat of the Standard oil monop-
oily and the dress cost $500, but as the
principal cost is IN the hand work, q girl
who is skilled and has no great monopo-
list for q father might initiate it sue
cessfuIly at a much less cost. The
dress is of pure mousseline de Sole
The skirt has four-inch hem and above
it is hand-embroidered three rows of
white violets in floss silk. It falls in ac-
Gordon plaits, and is shocked all over
the hips and caught with the white silk,
and in the center of each diamond in the
shocking is embroidered a violet.
A sash, embroidered and fringed, ties
in full double bow at the back and falls
to the edge of the gown. The bodice is a
perfect darling. 1t is laid in tlnest tucks
or plaits all about the waist, and over
the bust it is loosely gathered. The yoke
is cut low in the empire fashion, that is,
just to show the neck, and it is shocked
and embroidered with the violets, and
niS mill foil Of hn
white silk net in design of violets
The sleeves have first full puff on the
shoulder and are then tucked just to the
elbow, and finish with ruffle of lace.
This article opened with comments on
color rulings, the mistakes having been
recently emphasized by sad incongruities,
and as finale few sentences clipped
from the Fortnightly Review will not be
inappropriate.
"'For dressing correctly Chevreuil LAYS
down hard-and-fast rules about the tints
that may be placed with advantage
against certain compilations, and
those which are detrimental. But
the truth is that the endless variety
in the physical aspect of human beings
is such that it is misleading to tclass
them, in many cases, as 'fair' or
Clark or under any general denomi-
nation whatsoever. The skin may
have more or less of the bistre
and yellow ochre tones that be-
long to dark hair, though the hair itself
may be of any shade from dust color to
gold. The caprices of nature being so
diverse, it follows that such rules must
be elastic, and are made to be violated
almost as often as not. There
is one rule, however, which
BILE Where nature has been lavish with
her colors the decorator should be spar
ing Of them. No admiXture of strong
tints can heighten the brilliancy of a.
Rubens' beauty; it rather detracts
from it and fatigues the eye,
the relief of contrast being needed
If the picture, instead of glowing
be subdued and low toned, then the
background, the accomplishments, the
frame, so to speak, may with advantage
do their best to draw attention to their
subject, as the gold halos and gem
incrusted triDtych will add force
and value to the pale Madonna
and saints which they incIose. Herein
lies he art of the dress-to know just
how far to draw attention to clothes and
no further; never to allow them to i'm
pinge upon the interest that should be
conferred in the face.
NOTES.
Large, soft silk ties, the color of the
gown, are beng worn.
Sandal shoes are worn with empire and
directorie gowns on the other side,
Fancy sleeves of some thin fabric are
worn this season IN tennis blouses of
thicker material.
A French waist has the neck cut a little
low and in square tabs, which lie over
frills of lace.
Ribbon four inches wide is set in the
side seams of bodices, and drawn forward
to Il knot at the waist line.
Stout women should avoid belts, hori-
Zontal rows of trimming and ornamentiou
at the top of sleeves.
The modified directoire coat, when
made of firm, closely woven wooden goods
in plain colors is appropriate for travel
ing.
"The chief thing said London
dressmaker the other day. ''Is to make
the bodice so that nobody shall know how
you got into it.
Large checks are becoming popular for
morning aprons, and some OF the sum-
clyi