New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-09-22
PARIS FASHIONS.
HINTS ABOUT FALL DRESSES, HATS AND
BONNETS

II would take Edison in fashions constantly w
invent new stufis; We have none consequently there
is nothing perceptibly new. Cloth has been taAeIi
in hand By French couturiers; formerly they left II
TO foreign ailors. ] several models In clo'h
which | will afterwam describe. For the last three
four years / am always told after the summer tha'
large paids will be extensively worn, and moue's
made up in that goods exhibited at all the gres'
cOuturiers Now don't think plaids take a. Fucn
as the dressmakers would have them. With pau
dress It is necessary TO have many Others lou All"
your friends soon tire Of pattern that Is so recos
nizable and a lady hesitates to prompt her Irle"u7
TO exclaim: Hero is Mrs Three stars win 'hdt
eternal plaid on" Plain stufs then are more re0o""
mendable so much the more that they are NOV
monOtouous because fall fashions order them 10 10
combined with other plain stuhs OF other shaaes a'u
coors Even for usual wear, woollen goods In fail'
are always combined with silk, velvet or plush. AZ
cordlng the opinion of Felix II is Impossible 10 ndA0
a stylish dress with wOollen suIffs only.
Ladies who wish to be in the fashion this fah anu
winter must have or couple OF dresses ulin'".u
with astrakhan This becoming fur VIII be extensively
used for dress, garment and even bonnet triihhins
one drawback to it is the limitations, and yet no il'd
ton has ever been made that looks like the real
Dressmakers will tell you that fashions Tor iah
are smplifed OF course skirts made to hang
plain but they loaded as much as ever with eli"
brnleric, passemcn teTics and ribbons. Nothing can
take the place of heavy panels when drapereS art
not allowed. However in soft goods skirts are
slightly draped in front just below tho waist; bu'
the folds are so arranged that they do not Interfere
with the length of the staff It must fall to the edge
nj the under skirt All skirts are made long enough
ia toucb the ground In the back and the sides ana
front hang in proportion, 50 the length III Ihe p"h
win not be abrupt It very graceful length uu'
hardly practical for walking purposes, and after being
tried it will probably be adopcd only for carriage anu
calling dresses oouturiers do not entirely as
tbav
enough TO sustain thin goods, and cloth Is thought
too heavy TO carry without their support. The woman
who requires short waist and long skirt, to be more
symmetrical In figure is well suited with the preoe"'
fashions.
All bodlces are made rOund. with Just e"onSh
eOngation on the hips to be able TO span belt arou
and little below the waist. Belts Of all kinds are
worn and great taste and show can be dlsplayed III
the choice OF buckles. Happy is the lady now who
has antique ones. The narrow tancolored leather
bolts brought down the front with strong SILVER
buckle and extending only from the sides OF me
bodice Is very avorlte way here of finishing on the
bodice OF street dress of any color whatever
Rodccs wer, never more complex than they are now
It is impossible for the TO fasten them herself
the necb is hooked way over the side; the under
bodice is laced the plastrOn is buttOned over the
shoulder where the hand can't reach 10
fit tight the wide belt Is l&ed
under one Of the flaps and the back part Of the
skirt hooks the small basque OF the back bodice
How is the woman to do all that without maid The
backs of bodces are made plain enough but the fronts
are Series of complicated folds and trimmings which
n IS impossible 10 get into without much study The
sleeves match the front bodice they are puhed tucked
shrrcd and made much loOScr than for several
seasons past 4 plain sleeve Is only tolerated when
made pulled high on the shoulder.
The following IS a pretty model for bodice Plain
back bodice with folds stretched from shoulders 10 the
l Tho walt Erpn MIA mi
| narrowly folded white mOus~'ne de sole. over this
pli.trou Is ,t~hapcd ornament made Of stiff black
net covered with narrow silver bradingS put very
close together. This vest forms two rounded points
across the chest which are Joined with small silver
buttons and silver loop Then, from tho chest, along
and below II shows but line Of silver braid
that rests in the moussene de sole. Near the neck,
! the vest is Joined with rundown collar, which sits
mp rather high in the back This collar Is made also Of
and silver. The rest Of the front bodice lies In
folds Of the dress goods limits the vest and
the folded sides right and left at the small
/ Of the waist These folds tucked I'm a ribbon
belt which IS fastened the side which forms small
/ point in the middle Of the cOr>age and which is
/ fastened there with a silver buckle. The sleeves are
pulled the shoulders lie in loose folds 10 the elbow,
then tight fitting TO the wrist then they finished
Off with a band Of net covered with silver braldng
which IS thrust inside Of the sleeve like a cur.
Except for evening dresses, the Directory and En-
prc styles have entirely ont of fashion, that is
their notable points Waists are no
/ longer made short. the wide flaps across
the shoulders are thing of the past.
the sleeves moderated In circumference, the
buttons are less compromising in Size and skirts arc
made too ample to DE llBencd to an umbrella case.
40 French woman Of today carrie, the bag which l
! see is so much the fashion I'm America. COuturicrs
who invent fashions predicted that the Empire
styles would not last long Paris. Ii has at last
! kupLV fact ado
ricties with much reluctance than foreigners,
they seek distinction and not show. and less invention
/ IS necessary for the than for the other ! re-
! Gently asked New York woman why the Americans
! require constant change I'm styles. She said
/ Oh, do not tire of our own dresses. but our
! servants so soon copy them. No sooner Is a lady
! seen in New York with something new. than copies
! of if seen in her house. In the streets, in
| church, in theatres everywhere. When lady has
really something novel something which, for some
reason other. cannot be copied then she Is looked
at and She rather likes IT,. Now You have not the
difficulty TO contend with here. Little shop girls do
not earn enough to copy Npcnsive things and your
| servants have not Yet thrown their plain dresses
and long aprons aside to don lace feathers, veves
and silks. Ladies who object 10 being entirely demo
! cratic In dIe-s in our largo cities must always be
! on the alert for novelties
Couurcr tell me they doing all they can 10
Introduce the Louis XVI styles, minus the pani"rs,
the hoop and the long pointed waists. You ask what
Is left of the STYLE when s chief CHARACTERISTICS are
left out Well. to begin with. the stufs made I'm that
! kings time very beautiful. PompaIour and
Du Barry brocadcs, with large designs soon went out
of fashion small striped goods were worn instead.
The stripes were alternately plain and varegatod the
latter consisted of delicate tralngs of blossom, and
leaves and the stuff was always tremendously mixed
with plain. Color was then great study,
and no black was worn except for mourning The
skirts below the paners scantly but gracefully
dIaped the sides often looked like the drawings of
curtains. The trimming al the edge Of shirts was
also peculiar the Wide nOuncc. garn he'd with a deep
fringe, Topped into large fcstOOn, fastened with
bows Of ribbon or rO-"ttrs. Ribbon Ornamcntaon was
/ Law shed all drcs~e,. Not much heavy cold and
silver cH,Uderle> and pas~emcntcres were used II
probably why this style finds favor now among dress
makers: they think cmbru.dercs have had tb.ir day