The morning news., 1889-04-27
THE CONNEMARA CAPE,
THE NEWEST THING IN WRAPS
FOR TEE SEASON.

HOW Fashion Runs in Grooves-The
Great Question of style-Wraps and
Jackets, Bonnets and Hats at tAe
Easter Openings.
NEW YORK, April 26.-Dress has not be-
come an altogether beautiful thing, but it
sometimes touches beauty in true sense
eod becomes as much of a pleasure even to
look at, as any other so nearly perfect thing
in art or nature. Such inspirations are not
nossible often, and when they occur, one
wonders if the happy maker understood all
the suggestiveness, felt all the charm of the
work: and if the wearer will be equally
baDpy. if she will perfect the harmony or
make ii a discord.
The clothing of women-ot a very few
women compar ltiv ly - stimulates art
industry in an initiate variety of ways; yet
nine-tenths are born and die without seeing
or knowing how the rest live and dre,s. la
one department of manufacture alone, the
develop nent Of which has been recent, the
q owth has been 50 great as 10 seem fabu-
Ions This is that of printed India silks,
sou uetimes called pongees, but really the
same as the haldkerchiefs and short lengths,
to which they were formerly confined. OF
these silks there are hund ed different de-
signs. all bold, striking, original AID more
or less artistic. A few are modest aud
charming, but the majority are startling
like meteorS broken up into fragments,
palm forms turned by the wind, whi te
tongues licking fame out of the fiery
Ground, or delicate, starry blossoms upon
ieafeSs vines and branches.
The poetic suggestiveness of some Of these
natte-ns. and the weird defiance and
5udacitv of others, quite take ones breath
away. Has Rider Haggard or Jules Verne
taken to making designs for Paris aud Man
chester printing These silks look like it,
They are no5 very expensive, only from
81 % t. 50 per yard, and almost a ward
vide. But they are light Of texture, though
strong ia color, summer" silks that have
less weight than the old fashioned black
ard white checks, although nearly double
their width. So great is the demaud for
them that the supply can hardly keep pace
with it. One house alone has seven
salesmen employed in measuring them out,
and since January has sold from 81, 500 to
5000 wor of these delicate fabric every
day; and has CONT lued to equal the big nest
figure through all The days of March and
April.
IL is curious how much fashion runs in
groove, Notwithstanding the opportunities
for variety. Few are willing to take the
Initiative; the majority want a thing be-
CAUSE they have seen some one else wear it.
One of the great novelties of tae season is
Redfern's cOnnemara cape. 1t is composed
OF from three TO five or seven separate
capes Of light cloth, in the same or con-
tras ing or two shades of the same color,
TIE top cape is a collar, which is often of
plush, matching the darker shade of the
cloth. Two blues. two grays, brown and
clndrv, black and green, or all dark green,
look well, and they are very useful for
morning riding or walking.
An ther novelty Is a lounging jacket for
ladies. 1t is made of the pretty Persian
cloths liz ed and faced with silk. 1t is open
1T the throat, buc folds over in double
breasted fashion and ia tened with two or
three straps ana buttons. There are side
pockets like those of a gentleman's smoking
Jackets into which the nandS may be thrust, -,
and which will hold the handkerchief,
little pencil case or the like. This jacket is
not for the street or for morning wear, but
for after dinner, when ladies sometimes
adjourn to 9 picture gallery, the billiard
room to watch the game, the terrace on
moonlight night, or hotel corridors 1t is
to slip over an evening dress without disar-
ranging it or covering it, and is at once
light. soft and warm.
The new jackets are very handsome.
They are made with separate vests, and can
be closed or thrown open to form straight
rerers a charming design has a vest Of
white corded SIX, embroidered with silver
and gold thread made into a cord and en-
ricDed with stitches in silk. The jacket of
fawn-calored cloth has reUerS which form
the collar and cuffs embroidered to match.
The lining is silk. the buttons silver. with
little trRcerv of gold hardly distinguisnable,
and the cut and fit perfection.
An Isle of Wight dress. for travelling and
useful wear, is OF dust colored clOfh check 3d
III fine lines of bronze, gold and black. The
h-li hg,e1 1,aa cI. L.
PLAIN; but the bodice buttoned over to the
left and the diagonal line is broken by being
cut III 10 form sharp point. Inc front OF
the bodice at the throat, and the Outer part of
the sleeves at the wrist, are cut out in a
small square and filed in solid with very
rich gold braid, which covers the front of
the collar This is quite a new touch
and is very original in It's effect. 1t does
not admit of any other finish in the shape
Of tie, bow, jewel or collar. The skirt IS
made over silk, but is very simple in its ar
raugement. It's drapery consists of a fold
TO tho left Of the front. which is lifted from
Underneath, as If slightly raised by the
hand
A charming tennis dress is Of soft. wood
brown aud canary color; cap to match.
The bodice is a blouse of the striped mate
ra!, with yoke, deep and pointed. of the
canary color. Cuffs of the same. The
SKIRT is plaih brown, with inserted
folds Of the st ipe. The cap
has soft crown of the brown and straight
brlm Of the stripe arranged in loops, deep
ehng toward the front and set close to-
gether.
The sailor blouse is more generally worn
Inan ever in flannel, for boating purposes.
he very newest cloth gown is of golden.
sand-colored cloth, exqulsltely embroidered
WIN gold 10 form two bodIces; one a
qirectolre, the other draped most grace
iully. The change is effected instantane-
Ins'y, two quite different, yet equally
usuncuve effects produced.
REVIVAL OF AN ANTIQUE GARMENT.
novelty in the shape Of summer
PeIlSse IS adapted here as a tea gown. 1t is
very striking and fit for a centennial pict-
ure II Is d straight dress Of an old shade
oI green silk, with huge leg-of-mutton
,ieeVes; the trimming consisting of brond
uanCs OF fine gold silk embroidery, in green
ana cream and gold. The upper part of
zee sleeves must be at least two yards in
Wldth. The body IS laid in fine, straig ght
LucEs massed close together, front and
oack This Is a silk walking pelisse; but no
"ue mas yet been found courageous enough
10 accept It for that purpose; but quite
number OF the "old family ladies' have
suopted II for centennial dinners and after
noon festivities. With a high tortoIse-shell
c'l1o and sandeed slippers, ascension
curis on each side of tho face and long,
lehaent earrings, they :reproduce very
th.