The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1889-07-28
THE CITY OF PEACE.
An Old Mexican Town Seldom
Seen by Strangers.
1T WAS DISCOVERED BY CORTRz
Another OF Fanny B. Wards Delightful Let
tiers From the Sunny Lands of Greasers
and Mescal.

LAPAz, L. c., MEXIco,-[Specialc CORES
pondence OF THE HERALD. You may
search the encyclopaedia of universal
knowledge and the gazeteers of the world
even the histories and geographic
without finding anything of La Paz, beyond
the bare fact that it is
THE CAPITAL OF BAJA CALIFORNIA,
and is located on the gulf side of the PENN
sula, near its southern end, facing an i'm
mense bay which is also called La Paz.
The spot was first looked upon by Euro
pean eyes just 352 years ago, when ship,
under orders from Herman Cortez, came
sailing into the bay. Certez himself came
here a few months afterwards, pursuing
his explorations up the gulf that for nearly
three centuries bore his name; and, having
anchored and looked about him, and been
duly impressed by the same unspeakable
calm that prevails to-day, he dubbed both
sea and shore La Pdz, ''the Peace.n
One hundred and seventy-ive years later
lin 1710l, the place was visited by another
famous Observation-Disclosures Selkirk, then
sailing master of the Dover, Zone OF Noodles
Rogers feet who, on his way from the
island of Juan Fernando, was compelled
to lay here some weeks for repairs 10 his
ship.
After Cortez, came
A HOST OF MISSIONARIES;
and in the wake of the missionaries fol
lowed a number of Spanish expeditions;
and the efforts of both toward christianiza-
ton and colonization were manly confined
to this vicinity-probably on account OF the
gold in the near by Cralbo island and the
richness of the pearl fisheries hereabouts.
English expeditions also came to various
poiuts-the earlier ones for the express
purpose of capturing the richlyladen Span
ish galleons on their voyage from Manila
to Mecin: and in later years for geological
and scientific purposes The first mission
established in either California, was that of
Our Lady of TOretO, founded in 1897 ION
the gulf side of the peninsula, in latitude 90
degrees 30 minutes), by Father Jose Marie
Salvatierra. There were several others
near the same coast, notably those known
as Dolores del Sur, San Francisco de
Vigge and Santa Rosalia de Molige.
BY the way, between San Jose del Cabo
and La Paz, lies the town of Toreto, which
was tho ancient capital of the two Cali
fOrnias, Upper and Lower, and the place
where the first mission was founded. The
SlLt WAS DdulN CIUSSl I'D llOLLt GLiAC " ilAlS
portions Of it were destroyed or
CARRIED AWAY BY WATER,
so that now all that remains of it IS the
Mission church and it's adjoining buildings.
The old time sanctuary is very
quaint and still kept in Golerable
repair 1t is a large structure Of
solid stone with arched roof and dome
at one end. In it are some remarkable
paintings remarkably ugly, and queer
ornaments that are not in the least orna-
mental, being musty and rusty with age
and neglect. Its altar and baptismal font,
however, are worthy of notice, being OF
pure alabaster, in exceedingly graceful de-
sign.
Approached from the sea, through a mar
row and somewhat dangerous channel, La
Paz, springing suddenly into view, looks so
like the city of dream that it is hard to
believe ones self awake.
Its low white walls (Which later, close
inspection show to be OF much-plastered
adobe, cleaning like purest marble in the
setting sun, overshadowed by stately
tamarind trees and groups of towering
palms, and seeming TO rise directly out of
the ocean remind me strongly of oriental
cities, few domes and spires adding to the
illusion; the calm, cool water of the fore
ground dotted with myriads OF small
white WINGS belonging to the pearl
fishers.
THE GREAT GUN,
fired on deck, that shook the ship like an
aspen in the wind, instantly collected
crowd on the wharf, for the arrival of q
vessel in sleepy La Paz is an event OF i'm
portance. Boats were put out at once, the
foremost group, each floating the Mexican
flag. bringing the health and customs
officers, the American consul and the
comandante OF the port. No trouble is ex-
perienced here by foreigners whether they
come ON business or pleasure, SO long as
they themselves seem disposed to do the
fair thing; for La PaZ has the reputation
of having the most accommodating officials,
as well as the most hospitable people and
the prettiest ladies in all Mexico.
If ever a name was exactly fitted to
town, it is to this of the "City of Peace
which seems to be in an eternal dream. Its
population is something over six thousand.
but-though the capital of an extensive
territory of great republic-it is literally
separated from the outer world, having
neither railway, telegraph or telephone
communication with any other point. and
only to be reached by some rarely passing
steamers. Being the seat of territorial
government, it numbers amOngi its citizens
FEW FAMILIES OF WEALTH,
ana mas DN Iar the DeSU society OF any CltN
of Lower California, if not in all Western
Mexico.
AS we mounted the low, broad steps of
the stone-piled pier, after a short row from
ship to shore, the sun had some time dis
appeared behind the mountains which We're
fast fading from purple TO shadowy gray,
and the cocoa palms were throwing fan
tastic ef1igies Of themselves upon the
tranquil bay. There is an upper and
lower town, the city having been built
on slope rising gradually from the
sea to the nearby mountains, the latter
rising range above range, higher and
higher, with now and then a solitary peak,
SHARPLY outlined against the clOudless skies
of endless summer. From these heights
most magnificent view may be obtained of
the Gulf of California and the adjacent
islands. The climate is unsurpassed, the
thermometer never rising above 20 degrees
and the nights being cool and pleasant
The streets of La Paz, though tOrtuous,
ARE WONDERFULLY CLEAN,
well shaded by palm, tamarind and orange
trees. The pavements are rough and mar
rev, being merely protection to the
houses from passing wheels, if there were
any. Nobody walks on them, however,
but always in the ankle-deep and flea-in-
Tested sand. The houses are all of the
Of