Evening journal., 1889-05-27
AN ARTISTIC SKIPPER.
His Readable story of Travel-A TESp .ot
1900 Miles.

Dallast TO dhemlek, the ancien
Chic in Asia Minor, on the BAY
of MoodaAia. and at the remotes
part of the Sea of Maromora. Taking il
part of her cargo of chrome ore tn,
Albano steamed out of the Sea Of Mar
mora through the Dardanelles to Maori
on the southwest coast of Asia Minor
fifty.two miles from Rhodes. Having
completed loading cargo of 2,870 tons
of ore, the Albano's PROV was then
turned toward Baltimore She stopped
at valetta, Malta and Gibraltar, Spain,
and was but seventeen and a half days
from the Rock to her wharf in Baltimore.
The total distance travelled was IL, SOC
miles.
OF his stay In Asia Minor Capt. Muir
ray says that at Ghemlek he saw the
finest mulberry plantations in the East.
A wealthy Greek, educated at Robert s
American College, Constantinople
monopolizes the business. He imports
mulberry seed from France and he sells
them to the inhabitants. The mulberry
trees'are devoted to the culture of silk
cocoons, which are gathered carefully,
packed and then sold TO the Greek, who
in turn ships them to Lyons, the great
silk manufacturing centre of France.
The vicinity Of Ghemlex Capt. Murray
describes as a paradise of natural beauty.
The soil is of the richest alluvial charac-
ter, extending fully forty feet below the.
surface.
Maori, the principal port in the world
for the shipment OF high grade chrome
ores, is a slow-going place, with 5rin)i-
tive people and practices, Tie ore Is
dug in the ancient Latismhs mountains,
wuich are said TO be full of It. The de.
posits are four days (the people measure
the distance by time) from Maori, ana it
is conveyed over the intervening noun
tains on camels and mules, made
up in caravans. The oamels carry
about 300 pounds, divided ON
each side in bags. The mules carry
provisions or smaller quantities of ore.
The ore is deposited at Maori in heaps
until enough is gathered to complete
ships cargo. Over 81 900 camel loads of
ore were required to fill the capacious
hold Of the Albano. A Scotchman named
Pattison. living at Smyrna, controls the
great chrome ore deposits in the Latis.
mus mountains, but does not supply any
modern modes of transportation either
from the mines or in loading, there being
no wharves and the vessels lie at anchor
in the land locked bay and receive it
from boats.
Easter Monday and Tuesday were spent
by Captain Murray and several of his
officers at Levice, an inland town, built
on the pinnacles of rocks on the steep
side Of mountain. There are no streets.
Paths and steps lead from house to house.
The town is inhabited by Greeks, al
though under Turkish rule. The houses
are furnished in the most primitive
manner The women, beautiful and
modest, wear necklaces of solid gold
Turkish coins, none Of which, in Captain
Murrays Judgment, could be worth less
than 800 sterling The female costume
consists of white trousers. covered with
a skirt, which falls from the waist in
three separate parts TO the knees. A
jacket, richly embroidered in gold, is
worn. A turban completes this pictur-
esque costume.
On Tuesday Of Easter week Captain
Murray and his companions were invited
to a picnic given at a distance from Le-
vice. To his astonishment they were
conducted TO the place by $500 men,
women and children on horseback. The
women rode in true masculine style,
which their costume permitted them to
do, and they sat as gracefully in the sad
die and controlled their spirited horses
with as much fearlessness as a cowboy.
The roasting of the sheep on an impro-
vised spit, unleavened bread and
draughts of mastic, brewed at classic
Rhodes composed the picnic dinner.
On the road to and from Levice q visit
was made to an ancient temple Of the
Knights of st. John. 1t is cut out of
solid rock in the side Of mountain. BY
the courtesy Of a wealthy Greek, Captain
Murray and his companions were. enter
tanned at luncheon in one Of the halls on
Easter Sunday. The facade has row of
columns with handsome capitals cut out
Of the solid stone, and in the inches are
sculptured immovable figures. II have
travelled extensively" said Captain Muir
ray last night while relating his adven-
lures to Sun reporter "but nowhere
have felt such genuine pleasure as in
Asia Minor.
Captain Murray is something Of an
artist. he paints in oil water colors
and draws in crayon. ana the cabin of
the Albano is decorated with his own
work. Time at sea, he says, never
hangs wearily. When everything is
going on smoothly his easel aud canvas
gives him subjects for thought and recre-
alton. And then, when the Albano
rolls teo heavily" said the captain. cor
the dog-watch seems lonely. | resort to
my either, which harmonizes the rough
ness Of the sea or makes thoughts az
home all the more pleasant. And
touching the chords of the instrument 4
soft, sweet cadence, borrowed from the
music of Italy. responded to the fingers
of the young Yorkshire skipper. -Balti-
more Sun.