The morning news., 1889-05-23

For my part | like better the graduate
who adopts the pretty, girlish simplicity of
the empire fashions. In a large private
school in New York which Numbers among
its pupils few but scionS of wealth and fash
ion all the juno graduates have agreed to
wear white yelling gowns made with ac-
cordion-plaited skirts without touch of or
namsnt, b4lted waists and full sleeves.
Sueds slippers. very igst cream suede
gloves and tan suede stockings have
been Sc tied upon as the uni
form accessories. In another weil-knOwn
school white India silk has been chosen for
the fabric of the graduating gowns, and the
making which number Of the girlE are
adopting is novel and highly appropriate,
being one of the infinite notifications of
the very elastic en- pre STYLES. The skirt as
before Is accordion-plaitsd,b but the bodice
is full university blouse, gathered into
yoke on the shoulds and worn without
girdle or betting. Soft ruchings Of silk are
the throat finish and the blouse is to all in-
tents and purposes sleeveless, for the long
sleeve drapererles merely hazg over the arm
when motionlssS. falling back from the
shoulder on the least provocation.
Very graceful and plant are the gradu-
ates in their directoire gowns. Here is
toilet Of white embroidered muslin. The
skirt is plSite1 at ths sides and the back
where one or two soft loops are left frss to
form sort OF dra cry and the material
falls in loose, bl 'uss plates ii froR. The
bodice is cut in a modest poiat back and
front, the silk lining being fitted to the
figure and toe muslin drapsd owe this with
crs , fl >weriiks fullne-s q la RecGnlier. It
buttons up the back under the muslin. A
de1 EN- ire sash Of wslto s. TX is tied in
bow behind. The sleeves arc a full puff OF
muslin, ending just bal " elbows,
Other gowns Of the directory order are be-
w,kT nN.a
opening over accordon-plaitsd fronts of
tullc or lace, and yet others with full en-
pirc skirts of muslin with rows Of insertion
through which Larrow ribbons are drawn,
over which arc worn directory coats with
revers opening over full vests, tno
sleeves having deep rufflss or full under
sleeves of lace OF the fashion Of years
agons.
A fresh-faced girl whom I know is TO
graduate presently in one of the pretty
white bo dered woolens. The fowsred
edge makes a pleasing finish to the foot of
the skirt which is shirreI all around the top
aud made with novel todico Shirrsd Jn
the shoulders and again ulder the arms
Anot GER very pretty pattern for gown OF
India silk or chalil has full bTeAdths Of the
material fro II neck to feet, sloping little
narro wer at the top d shirred arou I'd the
shoulders at the waist line into form. The
much abused mohair has bee revived in
white and cream ii is for tho graduates and
is made up in delightfully."- simple round
rkrts, Hot too full, tucked in lsngthwise
tucss graduated in length from the IN lilo
Of the front TO the back breAdths, tas long
est tuck reaching just to the knees. Eyerv
tuck is herring bon sd and broad hem with
three or more tucks above ID finishes the
bottom. The pufiings, the tuckIngs, the
shirrings, the wrinklings, ths gath
erings, the pIaitiags, the foldiags, and all
the thousand and ono dainty empire de-
vlcss are suited to no one if NOT to the
young gi !.
This graduate wsars suede gloves, In tan
or pearl or cream sna les. Tney are long
and tied with baby ribbons or half long
with wrinkling wrists according TO the
sleeves of the gown. Lace mttcs ars a low
abe Tne slippers are Of tan suede or Of
b ack leather with paste or ste i or silver
buckles. ELLEN OSBORN.