St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1889-10-06

fI3,AA wire, or reed is to be
lSnS found in the imported
sat>- dresses with one excep-
ton, and this exception
is made in respect to heavy cloth
dresses. The weight of such a dress
is sometimes, only sometimes, relieved at
the back by the presence of small
reed which prevents its falling against
the figure in so clinging manner as it
otherwise would. This reed does not in
any way indicate to the uninitiated that
it is in the dress at all, and IL would not
be there were the material less weighty.
For more than year American ladies
have appeared to be in most vaeillat-
ing state Of mind in regard to the
bustle. SO lOath have they been to
part with it-although each and every
one admitted privately that she de-
tested it-that one would almost have
supposed they were in league with the
manufacturers, and determined to keep
the article in the market. Probably
the real reason has been because
Partisan ladies, until quite recently,
have continued to wear the tournure,
and while certain number of ladies
asserted their independence and desire
for change by appearing minus the
hump, others would have died rather
than not be the American embOdiments
of French fashions, and thus we have
had queer medley of dresses, punched
and plain.
No matter how Partisan ladies dress
and the same is true of femmes de
chambre as well as of duchesses-they
always have chic air, and therefore
the directOire and empire gowns which
they have lately seen fit to, although
simpler than the gowns whose places
they assumed, envelOp these ladies with
the same indescribable style as before.
a style which certainly entities them to
the honor of Leading the fashion in
modern ChrlStendom.
The Parisiennes have said that the
hustle must be given up, and so it will
go.
ROUGH CLOTHS ARE THE THING.
Rough cloths have entirely super
seeded the smooth for autumn and win
ter dresses. These cloths are shown in
fancy designs, with plain to match. All
sorts of odd figures and shapes have
been introduced, for designs, and at
present most of these cloths are so eX-
pensive that they Will be kept out of
the general market. When they are
initiated in cheap stuffs they will no
longer find favor with those ladies who
like unique styles.
The plain straight skirt still holding
popular favor, every effort has been
made by manufacturers to give their
fabrics richness and elegance. 1t has
also caused an entirely new line of goods
to appear. This is the dress material
sold by the yard which has border,
sometimes very elaborate, of braiding,
embroidery, tiger skin, cut velvet effects
and even designs of cocks feathers.
One 81 two dresses of such StutfS are
enough for one wardrobe. Equally
fashionable are the rough effects in plain
fabrics and cOlOrS. These are designed
most desirable trimming of the moment
is paSsementerie. Many and varied are
the styles in this species of ornamental
ton. Long points to be used as borders
to costumes are very generally selected
now, but my oracle already quoted in
forms me that this particular style has
caught the popular fancy so thoroughly,
and will presumably become so COM
mon, that the 400, that is. the feminine
| portion of this select circle, will avoid
points from this time forth.
But pasSementerie itself is too eX-
| penSive to become common. Black is
| the color most chosen, and it is used to
| greatest advantage on colOred fabrics
| that is, Oh some of the new cloths re-
| Gently imported for dresses. With the
| sets for collar. sleeves and pockets to
match. ElaborationS of these sets are
shown in ZOuave-jacket and Spanish
| bodice shapes.
THE PROPER COLOR.
| As for cOIOrS, the only one that is alb
! sOlutely sure of success is the "Eiffel."
! To the untutored mind ''Eiffel" might
mean yellow or blue, just as aptly as
red. but it is now accepted as designat-
! ing a dull shade of terra-cOtta red. This
color is always taking in winter, and in
Difference to the Paris exposition there
is particular reason for making it
| popular this year.
Dressmakers now speak of the direc-
tOire style with utter contempt. Whether
they wish to inaugurate something new
or whether their speeches are merely
echoes of the sentiments they have
heard from the ladies who employ
| them is not now determinable. Ger
tain it is the directOire style was thought
very chic and pretty last year at this
time, and was very eagerly seized upon.
| The eagernesS with which it was seized
upon has probably something to do
with its being so quickly consigned to
the fancieS of the past, but it is def
| nitely stated it will have no share in
the fashions of the coming winter.
A basque front, with cOatShaped
back, will, however, prevail as an au-
| tumn garment. 1t will not have the re-
verS which distinguishes the directoire
coat, and it will not be ornamented
with large buttons. The coat tails will
be rather broader than they were last
year, and will have great deal of plait-
ing underneath to produce an appear
ance of fullneSS.
High collars are again in vogue in
spite of the indications during the sum-
mer that change to low-cut neckS was
to be made. The moment that the
ladies, Tom, Dick and Harry appeared
in round collars and Vandyke points,
then Dame Fortune changed her mind
and made it necessary for the eXclus-
i've set to return to the conservative
high neck. All the imported street
dresses for autumn have collars two
inches high, and where passementerie
is used on the costumes it acts also as
an establishment for the collar.
TEA GOWNS WILL. BE POPULAR.
There is every indication that tea
gowns will b, as popular as ever, but
of designs most elaborate and unique.
Laces will be extensively used, but no
preference is indicated for any particu-
lar kind. Ladies use their real laces as
their whims suggest. The same eX-
nuisite garniture may deck half dozen
different dresses during a season.
A RUSSIAN BLACK SREEP.
How the Wicked MuscOvitc Grand