New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-01-13

THE MAN WHO MAKES FASHIONS.


| to make new models; they do net always lind tho
time to pore over the history Of dress for the COM
hinaton Of colors and styles. NJ. Reve has made
| invention Of dress his speciality. He has 10000
volumes and engravings which he daily consults for
| present combinations
The women of to-day tend to enfranchse them
selves more and more from the absolute and monet
onous dictates Of fashion expressed by its arbeis'
| said M. Reve to me; many of ihem no longer allow
the couturier TO think out their dresses for them,
shcy are tired Of being treated like flock of sheep
| that are to be dressed all alike II Worth Folk
happens to get good Idea In cut style, he null
tipes that cut style until It is found everywhere.
| YOU can't run away from Il; you will It in New
YORK. In all the capitals Of Europe. That is the
reason they have decided to be ecectcs; to study
! the art Of dress for themselves, and that is why
have SO many ladies come and combine toilets with
| me- They consult ME they would artist who
Is about to paint their portraits. There now, they
tell me, as they stand before me. 'You am q
bionde'-or brunette, as the may bel think
! such and such combination OF colors would suit
| me, and that this and this drapery would suit my
| figure. Now make q coored fgurine Of the dress
| want And mind you must not reproduce II for
| any other lady or any house,
aweI study her features and figure, and get
| up a toilet that harmonizes with both"
| But as she wears 1t she stands In danger
| Of having'it copied.'
4
| is only lady void Of taste and invention who will
copy her neighbours then assured that the
copy will never be than burlesque of the orgi-
na.s
| :" But whore is the lady to go to have the dress
made after she has Agurincl7
That's the difNculty-to find good drcssmakcr
who will take lady's ideas. The realization Of a
iady's dream is to discover rather obscure dress
maker who is a good itter That Is difficult but not
| impossible. Every and then first filter win
leave establishment to go into business her
account, and until such woman Is with work
| she will be a jewel for ladies who find her OUT
Cloth continues to be much used by French dress
makers. Heretofore, they only made cloth suit now
and then leaving that material for English ailos, md
preferr1ng softer stuGs, which lend themselves to
graceful drapery They eschewed cloth, too, because
for dresses It is considered too for Frances mild
winters. But now, dressmakers cater to the needs
and tastes OF foreign CUSTOMS they ready to adopt
the materials that foreigners cannot do without In
bygone years during the time of the Second Empire,
| for instance foreigners were obliged to taks the
refuse OF the French. II any dress or garment had
failed to suit the Partisan mondaines and had remained
hung up long enough to lose novelty and freshness OF
material, 1t set aside with the order given 10
saleswomcn to offer It only to foreigners. Times have
| changed; American ladies' especially, now share with
the Parisians the latest novelties They have even
gone further; they lay down the law to what ma
| terfas will be worn.
| A handsome cloth calling costume has an under
dress Of pea green faille with bodice and skirt killed
| from top to bottom. Over this a dark green cloth
poonaisc coat is adjusted 1t is very hght-htfing;
and skirt cut In piece and entirely COW
| cred with arabesques embroidered with thin round
bradlng Of the two shades Of green and dead silver
The skirt lies in panels; It is open In the
front and is sashed 10 the waist sides and back 50 as
/ TO allow the underskrt TO show Tournures have
been almost entirely discarded. But for cloth dresses
| A.. rtfIY rfatn
enough lend support to the heavy folds. Two lap
polls make up the front Of the cloth corsage they are
wide and pointed at the top and gradually diminish
into nothing TO meet tho edge of the mont panel at
| the small OF the waist They are lined with pea
| green silk and bortered with volutes marked with
| green and silver braldng They allow much OF tho
under bodice to show also deeply embroidered cloth
| corselet which, pointed above and below, connncs
| the kits 10 the waist From this corselet falls
| shower Of pendants, descending into point about
half yard Deep all made of green and silver passe-
menterie and Joined together with threads OF du Sill
| YER The sleeve IS made high on the shoulder, al
most tight to tho elbow then flowing TO the wrist the
edge Of tho sleeve is turned 10 show VIDE oand
Of the green silk lining, also marked with voiues
| There is a high, embroidered neckband. The crown
of the hat worn with this costume Is made OF irresu-
Larry folded cloth like that OF toque, the open brm
very much elevated in front and sharply narrowed a.
the sides is Of pea green velvet, bound inside ana
|
ers. dark green bow garnishes the inside OF ire
brIm and larger one fills the space on the outside
between the crown and the brim.
| have been asked by New.york lady II tho
rsrcctore canes are carried by Partisan women Ihcy
arc not ladies would DO called eccentrc' here II they
| were seen with them. few last summer wero seen
at watering places. but were carried oy women "ho
| wished TO attract attention.
| For those who love simplicity, the following fenx
| model Is worthy of copy. But for this. as for all
simple clothes which have plastic ft good nsure
| Is indispensable. mIgnonete cloth skirt Is signify
gathered in the back in peasant style and Is worn
| without tournure Of any kind. The edge Is tr1mmed
with five rows Of narrow black ribbon The perieeuy
paln cloth waist laced down the back, is relieved
,zltb black sash ribbon corselet pointed up and
down IN 'front.' and gradually growing narrower sides
and hack until II meets two ends Of the ribbon, which
faIl che length OF the skirt Tho plain tight sleeves
| have three rows OF ribbon around the wrist tho
| sleeves arc put IN 10 follow the contour OF the
MINER arm II Is here 10 be noticed that laced
arcsses esuecially laced In the back, are much IN
| favor. A more perfect fit IS always reached with
Iacss than with hooks or buttons. With this dress
r,rectore coat with three gradated capcs, Is worn
| these canes are trimmed with one row or RIBBON
| scwed above hem as wide as tho space left between
the ribbons on the skirt, and they reach only GER
tain distance In 'front.' so as TO allow he douoio To"
| ~ largo black buttons the coat to show Inc
srn,- ait,nr coat IS as long the dress and also
,,r,od with three rows OF ribbon. Largo pocket flaps
an the sides arc garnished with buttons. Flowing
,,ecves lined with black silk are trimmed with the
| Same narrow ribbon. The mlgnonette cloth bonnet
has small crown and is TO be worn rather far back
~ ,ho head the front IS narrow poke. widening
out from the face. and is lined with black SIX;
| mlenonette ribbon bow is pinned at one side, with
smsll bunch Of mgnonette nesting inside; wide
| green strings tied with wide bow under the chin
Tho DIrectore and Empire styles arc eilecuvo Tor
evening wear, and are willingly adopted by ladies'
who prefer more quiet and unassumng mode Tor
day dresses The auditorium OF the Grand opera
House was never moro brilliant than for the opening
night of PATHS performance OF Juliet Every iaay
wore her prettiest and most novel tolet ior Una.
| o,.ton The Countess Three Stars, who Is one OF
Tho most admired Of American beauties living In Paris
wore n scarlet brocade whose bodice was copy OIL
the Empress Josephines IN her portrait a. versailles
Tho brocade bodice was short and round, ana htted
so closely the figure that It looked Ike one OF tnose
| WIKI