Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1889-09-13
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How 70 Remodel . Last Years Dress on
tho Directoire Style.

Altnough red1ngotes and Empire
styles are the most worn designs,
basques and trimmed skirts are not
forgotten, though shaped to convey
an idea of the Directoire or Empire
fashions. If of a very stout figure a
slightly draped front is more becom-
ing than the plain. round skirt, as it
detracts from the apparent size. Dark
colors and soft woolen materials. also
take from the size. Stripes are be-
coming in a basque if matched per-
fectly and cut to form a succession of
VS., back and front The open fish
net makes lovely vests with the mar
row ''baby'' ribbon run through the
meshes at the neck and waist line
drawing it in shape and the ribbons
forming rosette at the end of each
row ON the side Of the basque. Three
or five rows are used at each part, and
the net should be over silk The rib
bon Is ~ cents a piece of ten yards,
and the net is about $1.5O yard, 48
inches wide.
Black net and green or old rose
ribbons and surah lining beneath
brighten up a black silk or wooden
dress wonderfully, with sleeve puffs of
the same. These are half a yard
long and nine inches deep before
made. Gather the upper edge after
Joining the ends and sew inside of the
sleeve, which has been cut about four
inches shorter than usual. Then turn
the other edge down to form an inch
and a half ruffle and draw it up on
three rows of narrow ribbon, sc as to
fit snugly around the wrist. Finish
the sleeves with a cuff of velvet or
the dress material.
Now L will tell my house-sewing
audience how to remodel a dress on
theCDirectoire style, which is easily
done If the breadths are long. Cut
the basque off in front even with the
waist line and the back in q short
point. Have revers of the goods,
with q vest of fish net, surah or In
dian silk, shirred ut the top and waist
where it disappears under soft
surah sash belt of the same material,
which is sewed in one side seam and
hooked over to the other. forming
soft, irregular folds above and below
the waist line. Have the collar and
cuffs Of the dress material or of vel
vet, according to the expense de-
sired. If the fortunate possessor of a
handsome throat wear a. turnover
collar, with cuffs to correspond of
silk to match the dress or vest, finely
knife-pleated.
Around the point in the back gather
three widths of silk or one of wide
woolen goods, and have an extra
width or twenty inches Of the mater
ial on each side in three kilt pleats
turned toward the front. This should
meet the sash sewed in the side seams.
The sham skirt Is arranged with
full length sham on either side,
short one in the back, and slightly
draped front, or the front may be
gathered to form q pointed yoke at the
top or arranged as a Spanish founce,
described before. A front of three
breadths draped up on the left side 80
as to show the sham beneath has n
very pretty effect. Woolen and silk
fabrics are stylishly combined in this
manner, the latter forming the vest,
belt and skirt front This is also q
pretty design for lace net skirt
sleeves and vest, with belt and coat Of
silk.
Sleeves must be full at the top,
though carelessly so in soft dcapings
rather than stiff, set puffs. Push the
fullness we'll above the elbows and cut
the top Of the sleeves long and wide
enough to drape in folds on either side,
centering in the middle of the top
where they narrow. The slash at the
bottom OF sleeves may be at the in or
outside and one inch and half deep
A lace ruffle, deeper at the back and
falling over the wrist, is becoming
finish now worn on nice dresses. The
lace must be soft and creamy and
then proves fattering addition even
though OF a poor quality. Ladies'
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