New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1889-10-27
AUTUMN FA SHIONS.
SIMPLE AND ELEGANT STYLES,

Az the autumn advances IL Is more clearly denoe-
strated that the urd styles OF !ress goods impored
early In the season destined chiefly, IN this
city. for shop windows and show. Plain fabrics with
trimmings OF stripes and plsds plain goods trimmed
with rich braidIng or appiqucd work Will be worn In
the street More latitude Of choice Is allowed for
house and evening dress. Ornate brocades OF SeVerM
tones Of color IN 6ne fower-like Empire patterns
IN large bold designs, will be the matcrls vi 1s
severely plain princess gowns which are mbe up Dy
fashionable modlses this season. the last Vesu8s
OF the gigantic tournures worn few seasons ago
has disappeared and the dress Is simply supported
below the waist line By single steel or three small
ones, and unless the figure IS such as TO need u NO
pad or hustle Of any kind Is worn.
AT no time has silk material been more beautifui.
The rich corded falle silks. which have worn with
such perfect satisfaction have at last rival In satin
luxor rich sken fabric which IS hardly as lustrous
ordinary satin. Nearly all the new brocades
are made up OF two three materials well as two
or three colors. Thus satin luxor combined with
armure or gros grain will form the figure fae
ground There is less armure shown than last season,
except in the richest brocades Pale delicate colors,
notably yellow and white rosc-pink and white and
heliotrope shades, which renroduced this
as dahlia colors,' all in favor Plain princess
dresses of black and colored velvets being made up
already for the opening Of tho season. though dresses
Of rich brocade in medley Of several
colors will be more often chosen by young ladies'
round waists In Empire style is used than ever,
and in some cases the full sleeves made up In
such way that the whole bodice appears 10 be
Of classic draplng OF which the sleeve IL oay
part. Dinner dresses and all gowns FOR full dress
reception this season trained. and biooahe
IS the favorlte material for these trains They aro
very long, flowing In soft, sinuOus folds rather than
In the heavy, stiff style Of years Snor5 dresses
for evening made OF colored English crypes crepe
de Chine, and soft tissueke fabrics In First Empire
STYLE with full straight skirts, round full waists and
wide girdles Of gold silver galloon Several bands
OF galOon Of gold embroidery wrought on the goods
turn the skirt on the bottom TIE Russian and French
fancy for using fur in trimming evening dresses re-
mains. A very narrow trimming of sable or some
dark brown fur is very effective pale pink white
brocade dark velvet dresses.
Long wraps of plain velvet or .brocaded volvets or
Of cloth nearly covered with applique figures In
black on contrasting ground are shown for
winter For ordinary tbs cloth Jacket
remains the most useful wrap between Made
up in scalskn, in the tight.fttlng shape Of last
season in the loose front shape Introduced
by Worth, it will continue in winter to be tho
most elegant and useful garment for young
ladies'. The close-ittng jackets are severely
plain with high straight military collar. The gar
ment hooked down the front without buttons and the
plain sleeve has cuff. The Worth jacket Is close
fitting at the back and sides and loose in 'front.'
fastened by large fancy buttons Of brown wood In
two colors. large Directore collar with a vest so
short to be hardly visible and serving only &c give
extra warmth finishes the jacket at the neck and cuffs
| complete the sleeves These jackets rangs
from twenty-five 10 twenty-six inches IN
length. The shorter length is worn By
women of shorter stature, while the longer Is long
enough for a tall figure. The manufacturers now
fit these Jackets to the figure without a wrinkle as
closely If they made of cloth. A variety in
this jacket has a of Persian lamb set in, and
liar Ubi I'm fhern ma he
up the ears, as extra protection. shoulder
capes Of fur promise 10 be even more popular than
last season. They should fit squarey over the
shoulders and extend far enough just fully TO show
the waist line of the tight-ftt1ng wrap thus giving
the figure slender effect The large Dircctoirc
muf Of long furs remains in fashion, though It has
by no absolutely succeeded the convenient
small muif OF close fur.
Children'S dress wraps are full Gretchen coats Of
plain repped beaver in rich artistic shade,
such as old rose Effelred, dark green, Gobelin
blue, and trimmed with black braid embroidery.
Misses palmer Directoire coats in princess
STYLE extending to the foot of their dresses, and
finished with huge pocket flaps at the sides, hugs
buttons of pearl, little square Dlrectoire revers
below tho straight collar In front, and straight
cuff. These coats are made in dark red, and In blue
and green with the collar and cuffs Of black
Persian lamb. For school wear Scotch palds, fancy
striped and paided ers-hair cloths and other
fancy COtnS arc mdue up III SerNlceaOle cOiOTs, IN
loose double-breasted coats, with capes for extra
warmth.
Bonnets were never simpler and danttcr than now.
The small bonnets prevail for all occasions. A few
high haring brimmed hats by young ladies'.
The toque. something between a turban and bonnet,
is up Of cloth again to match the costume. but Is
often Of felt English turbans OF cloth felt with
close rolled brims of velvet and low crowns exactly
like those worn twenty years ago when the turban
first into use, are favorite morning hats with
Young ladies' The small bonnets show less metal ex
cept gold which is still used. BOnnets depend this
season for beauty more on the dainty combination OF
several cOors ribbon velvet and embroidery than on
any richness OF special ganture Of Bird flowers or
plumes Children's hats for winter are principally
soft fets with low crowns and wide Tapping bnms.
with are finished with inch borders on the edge OF
long shaggy beaver. The child hat is worn In con-
trast 10 the TO harmonic with II IN decidedly
lighter decidedly darker colorsno longer TO match
H. Thus with a dark brown cloak large drab felt
hat with the soft brm borered with darker beaver !!
worn. and II Is trimmed with a wide fancy drab and
brown ribbon I'm a huge wheelille bow Of SIX loops and
two ends tied with studied carelcssness In the centre
of the crown and falling to The hrim on an snes
Two close cut ostrich pompons complete me tlmmlhss
Thanks due 10 James McCreery * Co., Loru
Taylor and Aitken, Son co.