The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1889-04-03
LENT AND THE FASHIONS.
CAN THE OLD GOWNS BE MADE OVER
The Exit of the BustIe Necessitates an En-
tire Reconstruction of WardrObe-Shoes
Must Correspond With the Color
of the Dress, Etc.


serious meditation, but the all-important
question of dress vexes the ordinary fem
mime soul.
1t is troublesome enough to repair the
winters wear and tear upon the con-
science, but it is a more difficult task to
renovate last years wardrobe. No one
can see whether the society girls con-
science is as good as new on Easter Sum
day, but the least observant of her many
friends know if she appears in "made
over" gown. 1t is, therefore, necessary
for women to spend great many of the
forty penitential days in the study OF
dress.
There is much lamentation among the
possessors of good leftover" gowns, for
the dressmakers declare that street suits
cannot be altered so that they will be
stylish. Within the past twelve months
many changes have been decreed by
Dame Fashion. In the first place the
hustle has almost disappeared. 1t is so
small that it is barely noticeable and is
worn to support the pointed ends or
plated backs of the basques.
The decline of the long-cherished hustle
necessitates notifications in wraps and
dress-skirts. Princess STYLES are again
popular and the straight-plaited back
draperies are much worn. All sorts OF
redingotes are in high favor and the direc-
toire shapes will still rage. Dress-skirts
are narrow and much gored and they are
deliberately embroidered and braided.
Applique effects are the latest freak and
the cloth gown that is trimmed with an
intricate pattern is a costly possession.
All the new gowns have waists that are
of odd design. 1t is a mystery how and
where they are fastened. Iokes, waist
coats, spencers, and stomachers are intro
duced singly and collectively. The sleeves
of street suits are again full at the top and
gathered into the arm-hole.
Every color of the rainbow and many
shades that Noah never dreamed OF will
be fashionable this spring. Silk is much
used in combination with wool goods and
changeable silks are again in vogue.
Every woman who pretends to be
stylish will this season have her footgear
match her gown. All the leading shoe
makers are busy filling orders for the
popular craze. Patent-leather boots are
made with cloth uppers, either laced or
buttoned, but the laced boots are pre-
ferred Russell leather is the choice for
shoes intended to harmonic with brown
costumes, but every woman ought to con-
sider the size of her feet before she orders
pair of russet-leather shoes. The new
fashions in fOOtgear are not necessarily
expensive. The eloth-topped shoes, when
made to order, cost from 81 to 50; but
inasmuch as they are to be worn with
only one gown they will last all summer
There is a great variety of hats and bon
nets for this intermediate season. Large
hats have the preference and few toques
and small bonnets are seen. Wells are al
most as much the fashion as hats or gloves
or wraps. The ruffled, dotted, gathered
and tied-dOwn empire veil has, however,
seen its best days. The plain lace veil is
now considered the most stylish thing to
wear. The lace is quite costly and varies
from 81 to s. yard. 1t requires a def
hand to arrange the lace veil gracefully,
especially if it is Just long enough to pin
around the hat. But why do women de-
light in wells? Perhaps there is an added
charm TO beauty "half revealed and half
concealed" vet the ordinary observer
does not readily discover the charms hid
den behind black-spotted lace scarfs, and
men are suspicious enough to imagine
that powder and rouge are generously APP
piled before the voluminous wells are put
on.
Muffs will be carried until they can be
exchanged for parasols. OF course furs
will soon be hidden where the moth can
not break in, but dainty creations of cloth
or velvet, trimmed with ribbons and
feathers, Will take the place of sealskin
muffs. There is a peculiar manner of
carrying the muf this year-the elbows
must be bent at certain angle and the
muff must be held at given distance
from the waist line-and the fashionable
girl does not like to relinquish such a
stylish addition to her toilet
Spring wraps are shown in every style,
shape and color. Jackets will be the first
choice of women with good forms. Waist
coats are feature of all the jackets, and
some of them are deliberately trimmed
with embroidered and tinselled bands
Many changes are rung upon the name of
directoire-everything with a lapel is
called directOire. The newest jackets are
called "blazers." The "blazers" are pre-
sumablv intended for warm DAYS, as they
do not fasten in front. They are faced with
silk or embroidery, and they hang oosely
from the collar, where they are clasped
with handsome buckles.
One stylish promenade costume is suf-
fcient for the season, as every woman
nowadays exchanges her street suit for a
house dress whenever she is at home
1t is now the style to study ones type
and model the whole wardrobe after some
special pattern. If the directoire modes
are becoming all the dresses should bear
some suggestion of that class of fashions,
and if the quaint empire styles are suita-
BILE to the face and figure the costumes
should all be notifications of the short
WASTED, flowing gowns that made the
Empress Josephine and Nine. Recamier
so bewitching.
The Easter gowns, whether they be-
long to the empire or the directoire styles
will be unusually pretty this year. All
the women who attend Dorcas societies
during Lent ponder over the most ar
tistic styles while they make gingham
aprons for the heather, and the result of
so much feminine reflection will be highly
satisfactory.
Latest Fashion Notes
Now evening toilets for debutantes are of
soft Sicilienne silk, in rose pink, magnolia, opal
blue, and water green, combined with silk
Ilsse exquisitely embroidered.
Persian-fgured broeades on cream-white
grounds will be of great use the coming gay
season in the creation of elegant toilets in
POmpadour and direetoire styles.
The garnitures this season designed either
for wrap or dress decoration were never more
elegant varied or handsomely apDlied The