Morning journal and courier., 1889-12-26


 1889.
 the could scarcely have been less palatable.
 The government salt works are situated here. On the seashore, long before we anchored, huge conical heaps of salt, like tents in ap- pearance, attracted our attention. There were more than 150 of them by actual count. The commerce of the place is extremely linn tied, however, since the island has not yet recovered from the disastrous and terrible earthquake of 1881, when 4,000 lives were lost. Silk, wool and cotton, with variety of tropical fruits. constitutes it's chief pro- ductions.
 Smyrna proved to be smitten with species of maiarial fever, brought from India, known as the "dangee." No fewer than 50, 900 cases abating materially at the time of our arrival. Evidently it was not 8 desirable place for 6 prolonged visit. In fact, when our two days allotted for inspecting the quaint and ancient city had expired we took the French steamer for Beirut with keen satisfaction, the unani- nous opinion being expressed that it was @ good place to sail awsy from. During our rambles about the place we saw camels for the first time in our experience out
 
 dark, narrow and crowded, were full of them. Usually fastened together in droves of five, or six, they were laden with grapes, figs and other native products, brought from various parts of Asia minor on their way to the United States and other distant markets. The ungainly form of the camels, with the tinkling of bells fastened to their neeks-the quaint architecture of the buildings together with the flowing garments of the drivers and .Scl, %n1 Sofr at once unique and peculiar. Uncounted dogs slumbering on the narrow sidewalks in the heat of the day compelled us to alter our course lest we should step on them, snapped at us as we passed, or darted into neighboring alley with . low and de- liant growl. The population of the city is estimated at OO,00O, which is divided among the Turks; Greeks, Jews, Americans and Franks. All tourists love to frequent the bazaars. Though many articles of g curious or ornamental character are offered for sale, the shops are as 8 rule dipgy, dirty and labrinthine. Business is transacted largely by English, French, Italian and Dutch merchants.
 Smyrna, with six other localities claims that the immortal Homer was born on her soil. t'Seven cities claim Homer, dead. Through which the living Homer begged his hread.n
 7 Itrwas one of the original Seven Churches of Asia, described by the Apostle John in the book of Revelations, the site of the origi- nal structure being still pointed out to visi- tors as one of the antiquities of the city. It's origin has been satisfactorily traced to Alexander the Great. Among it's exports are cotton, dried fruits, silk, camel's and goats hair, wool, and opium, while its im- ports include coffee, sugar, indigo, alcoholic liquors, iron, steel, lead, and tin.
 The ascent of Mt. Pagus, on foot, during day of torrid heat will not soon be forgot ten. few of our party rode up the moun- tain on donkeys, followed by donkey boys who urged the unhappy brutes to their ut most speed, which seldom exceeded that of a walk. At length the summit was reached, and panoramic view of surpassing beauty rewarded us. The vast city with mosques and minarets was spread before us bordered by the broad and beautiful bay.
 Near the top of the mountain the grave of Polycarp is pointed out He was the first bishop of Smyrna. Here the first Christian church in Smyrna is said to have the site of the ancient structure. Rags attached to sticks near the spot futtered in the gentle breeze. They were torn from the clothing of invalids by friends and brought to the sacred site, under the impress sion that health would thereby return once more. Our conductor cautioned us against approaching certain place where rude mat was placed, with come attempt at deco ration, as it was regarded as holy situation. Death has been inflicted on some presump. tious but thoughtless visitor who went toe far.
 Smyrna has very bad drinkingwater and the strictest temperance man Is puzzled to know what to drink in that fever smitten city, especially at meals where tea and coffee are not served. At different periods the cholers and plague have decimated the population, while terrific earthquakes have been experl enced, notably in A. D. 170 and 1S46. By [ destructive fire in 1S41 more than 12,0 ,00( were swept away in few hours, as the ap pliances for extinguishing confagrations are exceedingly primitive.
 An evening visit was made to the ttSmyrns Rest" for seamen on the quay fronting the bay. A big, honest looking leader was in charge. A few years ago he entered Bow. cry Mission, New York, as 8 drunken sailor. He was converted and now makes it his life work to conduct 8 similar mission for the reformation of sailors touching at Smyrna. A coffee and reading room are connected with the enterprise.
 Before sailing from Smyrna side trip tc Ephesus was made by railway. It was also one ot the seven churches of Asia and ii distant from that seaport fifty miles. But few traces of it's former grandeur remain. A section of the great Roman acqueducs, foundations of the famous Temple of Diana and other prominent structures alone exist.
 This renowned temple, so dazzling that visitors were cautioned to look out for their eyesight on entering it, was four hundred and twentY-f five feet long and two hundred and twenty feet wide. The roof was of ce- dar, which was supported by one hundred and twenty-eight co'umns, sixty feet high. The statue of the Goddess of Diana was composed of ivory, profusely decorated with authenticated tradition this magnificent temple-justly styled one of the seven won- ders of the world, was entirely consumed by an incendiary fire. A misguided miscreant, Erostratus, confessed the crime; his desire being an eternity of disgrace, knowing that in this form his name would descend to re. motest posterity.
 Horses, bony, sore, spavined and ring bon ed, were in readiness to take the party to distant points of interest. After all were supplied, I mounted miserable bony brute astride of 8 rough Turkish saddle, where buckles, straps and needless punches, sug- gestive of the torture of Inquisition. were plentiful, which soon removed much cuticle from my lower limbs. All the animals were fresh from the blow, really the best availa- ble, since they were to be used but two or three hours. My superannuateo quadruped could not be coaxed off from wslk To confess the naked truth, owing to my inex- perience as horseman and to the buckles and punches aforesaid, scraping the surplus flesh from my body, was not especially am- bilious that he should quicken his pace. rode as far as the cave, where the first church of Ephesus was built, when dismounted, gave the horse to native attendant and re. turned on foot to the hotel, examining vari- ous ruins by the way. Our party returned in good season for substantial dinner at the Ephesus hotel.
 Ephesus is simply desolation. The threat to "blot her out," recorded in the book of Revelations has been amply fulfilled. She did not repent, and for long centuries no Christian church has existed there. The cave of the Seven Sleepers, who slept 200 years and found Christianity triumphant on awakening, St. Lukes grave and many other apochryphal localities are pointed out to the credulous tourist.
 In the stonewalls around some of the farming land, portions of capitals, friesss columns and other portions of the ancient temple, and other edihces can be seen. Much curiosity exists among archeologists as to the whereabouts of the vast quantities of building material of which these structures were originally composed. Thousands of acres of unfenced land, covered with myriads of cobble stones, are seen on every hand. How the average goat manages to exist there during the dry season is an unsolved problem, sin ce vegetation is k-I- s-s1 1- H.