The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1889-10-15
FASHIONS OF THE DAY.
BE1 UTY or MATERL4L IND SIM
PLIcITY or FORM RETIRED.


Purple Coming to the Front-EiGel Rec
Is a New Shade-Points on the Petit
coat-Fattening Slaves to Kill.
The true type of a woman's dress
combines beautiful material, simplicity
Of form. lightness of weight and dur
ability. As an example of this type,
we recall a gown worn by a lady in
the days of our youth. The material
was a thick soft gray satin, brocadeo
with pink roses and golden brown
leaves. Is was made with a plain
round waist, a V-shaped neck, filled
in with the softest lace, and straight
full skirt, which fell in graceful folds
The wearer, a blue-eyed, golden
haired woman, made in this dress a
lovely picture, "a symphony in color, "
not easily forgotten. But think OF the
hybridizing that has been done to I'M
prove this type of gown-the hump on
the back, the tie-backs, the folds and
~ruffies, and loopings innumerable,
that went to make up the boutfant
drapery, which was forever catching
on door knobs and always needing
repairs.
All hybrids, however, have a tend
ency to return to the type, n
fashions in the making of gowns. this
fall, show a return to simpler forms
and rich materials. Skirts of dresses
are made plain and full and have
pleated backs with panels of m
broidery, braiding or velvet by way
of relief. Many of the skirts OF wool
dresses have rows of shirring across
the front, which give a deep hounce
effect. Waists and sleeves are a good
deal trimmed; a great mount OF in
genuity is expended in devising eiab-
crate vests, and there is q unique
fancy to trim differently the fronts of
the same dress, or to place all the
trimming on one side. Basques are
short and deep pointed, but their
matinee or Drucilla waists made
with tucked yokes and belted so as to
leave a frill over the hips. These are
best worn by slender figures, and
made of bright shades of surah silk,
and ornamented with rows of briar
stitching, are very pretty for evening
wear at home and can be worn with
various skirts.
That a gown is a triumph of skill
this season, will depend on the garni-
lures used. The passementeries are
very beautiful and are in deep Van
dyck points. Escurial gimp, the new
est of the trimmings, is a cord pattern
made on net and is very effective on
wool or silk Fringes are revived;
these have deep Melted headings;
sometimes the entire front of a dress
is trimmed with rows of fringe, and
there are apron fronts composed of
one deep Vandyck point of netting
with deep fringed edges, which have
sashes of heavy silk netting to match.
In colors there isan attempt to push
shades of purple to the front, and we
see Cuban prune and heliotrope and
dahlia in brocades; but it is a
color which requires delicate treat
ment and will hardly be popular.
There are greens in all shades, greens
which run the gamut from beryl to
emerald and grays, from the coolest
steel to the soft shades of a sea-gulls
wing. For ultra fashionables there
is a craze for yellow, in all its standings
of straw color. %buttercup and canary,
with a preference for the shade that
runs into orange. Yellow will be the
color for dancing and reception cos
TUNES, and is seen combined with
purple. A New York society lady has
ordered a tea gown of yellow velvet,
with embroidery on violet inserted in
the material. Marked contrasts are
shown in colors, and black trimmings
or touches of black are in vogue on
colored goods. A dress of golden
brown faille had a front of gray faille,
and on skirt and waist where the two
colors met there was deep pointed
passementerie in soft Persian hues.
Again we see tan color and serpent
green associated, and green and old
rose.
To see beautiful materials for even
ing dresses, n feels that the day
when the beauty OF adress depended
upon made trimmings and endless
stitching by the seamstress is gone for
v A white faille had a pattern of
golden rod, which was accumulated by
stripes of yellow green satin. The
velvet brocades are in very beautiful
combinations, a deep green is bro
caded on pink satin and a garnet on
willow green.
There are brocades of silk for COM
bination with wool goods, and some
wool dresses show fronts of plain
faille. Many of the fine diagonal
camel's hair suitings show woven
borders in contrasting or matching
colors, and plaids are shown in large
varieties.
All have heard of the woman who
thought she would weigh the velvet
jet trimmed gown that her dress
maker had just sent home, and it
weighed thirty pounds. And she