Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1889-10-05
WHEELING IN EUROPE.
-Four Washington Bohemians and Their
Experiences I'm Germany.
HARRAssKD ~ GERMAN PoLIcEMES-porya TEE
RHINE BY sTEAMrR-Ar wEIsnApEN AND BADEN |
BADEN - WHEELING THROUGH TIE BLACK
FoREsT-scENEs AND INcrpENrs
Correspondence of TEE EVENING STA,

BADEN - WHEELING THROUGH THE BLACK
FoREsT-scENEs AND INCIDENTS.
Correspondence Of TIE EVENING star
BASEL, SWITZERLAND, September 10.
When we arrived In Cologne policemen Of
whom we inquired directions to our hotel were
very curt and seemed DESTROYS of impressing
upon US that their time was too valuable to be
taken up In answering our questions Then.
when we sought the general delivery window at
the post ONCE to inquire for our mail, we con-
satuted the minority Of group who for eight
| or ten minutes were obliged to await the pleas
ure OF brass-buttoned fellow inside. He had
something else to do and declined to receive
our cards until he had finished doing
that something else. We made two ex-
petitions to the custom house after our
extra baggage, which we had sent on from The
hague. The first expedition on the day of our
arrival was unsuccessful. We rested the next
Gay ana then went back to the beginning Of
our researches and began over again. The
details were numerous and tiresome; we saw
so many officials and received such a collec-
ton of papers Of one kind and another that>ve
came to the conclusion that it was a very serious
matter to send hand bag of clothing into
Germany. When at last we got our hands on
our property and started on a Decline for the
motel we were from time to time pursued and
headed on by different officials whose duty it
was to see that everything was regular or to
take from US few Of the documents we had
accumulated.
DOING THE RHINE.
After considerable discussion we concluded
TO do the interesting portion of the Rhine,
from Cologne to Mayence, by steamer. On
presenting ourselves at the ticket Office at the
wharf we learned that, although our baggage,
| bicycles included did not exceed in weight the
| amount allowed free, our bicycles must, never
theless, be paid for as extra baggage" We
reluctantly paid the extra amount No sooner
had we got them aboard than we're per-
emptorly informed that they must be ticketed
for which. in addition to what we had already
paid, there was fee" At this point we be-
came sarcastic and inquired whether there
were any more fees to be paid and if so to
whom and why. This raised the ire of the con-
seguentlal old fellow, whom We dubbed Bis
marck, who seemed to have general
charge, and afterward wreaked vengeance
on us by asking for tickets every
time an excuse offered. The steamer was an
express. the Wilhelm and the passengers
chiefly English and American tourists as usual
We were in ''citizen's" clothes; but there we're
other jays in Observation-Disclosures balcony
a11alrs, some of them-and huge helmets, lust
for the looks of the thing. We are usually glad
enough 10 get out of our riding toys. knee
oreeches and all, at every opportunity and don
our ordinary suits-Richards. Familiarity known
as "dlckies and ceiuloid collars, so as to look
IKE ordinary common people, for a change.
But there are some of our countrymen and
, English cousins who, although neither cyclists
nor pedestrians, seem thoroughly impressed
with an idea that they cannot be real, live
tourists unless they rig themselves out in some
ridiculous style.
OLD CASTLES.
There was nothing especially interesting in
the scenery until beyond Coblenz, when old
castles began heaving in sight thick and fast
Like series Of boils, "the one did tread upon
another's heels, SO fast they followed" Some
OF the old shells have been patched up and re-
built for modern uses-'.restored" is the tech
meal term. goodly portion of the time and
labor of Europe is devoted to restoring its
old castles and churches, especially the latter;
but many Of the Rhine castles show signs of
sad neglect. In short there are nc two ways
about 1t, II Germany wants to preserve her
''castied Rhine" with its steady stream of tour
list travel passing to and fro, she will have to
bestir herself pretty soon-either RE-
store" those ruins little more or
get fresh lot from somewhere and
plant them along the banks, with a nice new
and original legend or two to keep up the in
terest. The grandsst portion of the river is at
and in the immediate vicinity of the Lorelei,
where high, imposing cliffs rise abruptly on
either side, almost from the waters edge The
nymphs who years and years ago are said to
have lived on the rock, are generally repre-
Tyre or other fashionable instrument of their
day to allure boatmen to destruction.
LOTTERY DINNER.
One feature Of the trip was the table
dhote, dinner served in courses, which
we had on the steamer. 1t is a
sort of lottery Everybody pays in the
same amount Of money and takes his chances.
The rule is to grab what you can as the dishes
nit by. Meanwhile q long row of eyes is watch
ing every move OF the plate and the owners
specializing As to whether the supply will give
out before 1t reaches them. Between courses
you may read another chapter in your novel or
amuss yourself in any other way you like and
forget that you have eaten anything since
breakfast. You are at the table SO
long that you begin to feel quite
have always been there ever since you can re-
member. eating one continuous table d'hote
dinner. Alas! your dream il soon broken; for
about the time you have formed sincere at
tachment for your surroundings the closing
there 10 nothing left for you to do but to sadly
turn your footsteps to the upper deck again to
find some one else in the choice seat YOU had
occupied before the tempter came in the per.
son OF the hireling with dinner tickets.
AT wEIsBADEN.
The next day. as we rode from Mayence To
Wiesbaden, we for the first time saw peasant
women wearing costumes approximating in ap-
pearance those generally to be seen nowadays
only at masquerades and fancy dress parties
The police at Weisbaden rendered themselves
obnoxious almost as soon we came within
the limits of their jurisdiction. One hailed us
we rode through the outskirts, to tell us to
put on our coats. OF course we did so. IN II
Is inst as well to be as cool and comfortable az
possible when cycling in warm weather. and
we wear no coats when in the saddle, the man
dates of officious German police to the contrary
notwithstanding. Weisbaden has annually
about &c. 600 visitors, tourists and invalids with
chronic diseases, who to drink
the waters and put themselves to
soak in the hot baths. Having nothing chronic
with us but our appetites we were content with
sampling the waters Of the Kochenbrunnen the
principal spring, the temperature of which is
1862 Fahrenheit One glassful suficed We
thought we should prefer to remain invalids
than to drink that stuff. Recipe: One glassful
Of hot water; add little salt and sufficient
doubtful shade; stir well before taking. II any
one will prepare and drink this dose they can
imagine themselves drinking Kochenbrunnen
water.
BETWEEN wEIsBADEN AND FRANKroRT-oN-rHE
MAIN
we witnessed one OF the beauties of living in a
European country and having lot of regular
soldiers constantly going to and fro. A regi-
ment Of cavalry en- route from one military
post to another had taken possession of large
newly dragged and possibly planted field for
MONDAY bivouac Even if the owner should be
compensated for the occupancy Of the field he
could hardly be repaid fer the DELAY and dam.