St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1889-10-14
FALL r. AsdIONs.
what the Ladies VIII Wear Dur
ing the Autumn.

blldI Is. Inc Ulill6 when one Is quite utl-
decided what to wear, when the summer
things begin Ia be trifie light. and yet
il is not time to wear the real autumn
clothing. The fancy which prevails for
Wearing white gOWHs quite Nte into The
see>on is very pretty ore, and a con
Venient one as well. White wool stutTs
are warm and protecting, and the lighter
materials made sufficiently SO by the
addition, on cool DAYS, and in tn e
evening, of one of the jaunty, CO.
Quettish. ZouaVe or Russian Jackets in
plush or velvet, or faced cloth. wit h
quantities of gay braiding. You see the
fancy for bra!ding is by no means gone
by; if-puSsible, it tiOuriShes more than
ever, and offers plenty of opportunity
for the clever need .ewOman 10 make
her dress pretty by all sorts of intricate
devices. Then, too, gray silk is used
with these white gowns, and very
pretty effects are made. For instance,
there are some very stylish PariS-made
dresses for youthful wearerS, of cream
white woods, in combination with the
new plaided and striped Surahs that
have but two cOlOTs in their patterns.
Orange and olive plaids are novel, also
new shrimp pink. with linden green.
Brown and Roman red are com
bined. tine brown a rich golden tint.
A timely woven white UTSuiine cloth
forms a bodice. and long. graceful
draperieS over skirt of ecru and cafe
au-lait plaid. with brown velvet revers
on the wool bodice. With this costume
may be appropriately worn an Alpine
hat of cream felt, with plaided scarf
around the crown. This combination
of WOODEN stuffs and plaid surah is not
confined To white. but is used with pale
self-colOred Stutfs. a pale tan eolored
wnOlen dress has a Killed skirt of
plaided surah, the cOlOrs being a pale
shade of tan and a soft shade of beige,
with crossing lines of dark brown.
There is very wide sash of the Surah
at the back of the skirt. Even women
In mourning have
THESE WHITE DRESSES
mOdihed for them. They ore combined
with black in manner that shows that
the attire is mourning. and not the
mere SNOWY "magpie" dress of the
woman in the black garb. The ma
terial for these dresses in white cash
mere; not the cream white, with the
yellOwish cast 10 it. nor yet the blue
white, but the clear pure white that has
no hint of color in its soft folds. the YER
table snow white. This has its sur
face almost entirely covered by black
embroidery in star pattern. This en-
OiOANOlg IN S1Cob NluIuS IlhC
piece lace, and is made up as an over
dress and worn above prin-
cesSe dress of black bengaline. The
OVeld dress does not meet in front, its
scallOped edges falling open to display
full pointed front of bengaline, with a
pointed collar and belt of the embroid-
cry. But black and white are not al
ways mourning, and black and white
toilets are decidedly the rage again. and
there is every indication that they will
prevail for many months to come. Semi
diaphanOus silk and wool fabrics, imi-
Eating China crepeS, show lovely and
novel designs in this combination.
Barred, Powered and striped black-and-
white surahs, India silks, sprinkled
with black sprays and foliage, and
China silks, with white grounds, show
Ing abaresque devices, gtometrical
and purely fanciful patterns, are
also very much used. White
six accOrdiOn-pleated silks, bOrdered
with many rows of black MORE ribbon,
with panelled Overdrapery, lined with
white silk, are among the black and
white toilets worn. Much black ribbon
Is used upon these dresses. Black lace
and white lace in combination cOnSti-
tute an ideal gown for girl in ''light"
mourning. The beautiful soft, sheer
clairette is to be much used in stylish
gowns for autumn wear. Picturesque
bOdiceS and sleeves will be adopted for
these gowns. A lovely toilet of cream
white clairette is made in the empire
fashion. with garnitures of white and
gold silk bands in applique. The sleeves
are pulled and caught down at intervals
with bands of paSsementerie. The
bodice has a white lace vest, with the
white and gold trimmings set at each
side.
Foulards will also be worn as long as
the weather will admit, and that will be
for month or six weeks longer, GER
tainly. Some of the latest made ones
have the pretty Figaro jackets, with the
newly-reyived Irish guipure lace as
trimming. A very pretty model of one
of these gowns is in GObelin blue fou-
lard strewn with large blossoms in
suede color and white, the crepe lisse
vest and pleated collar being of paler
blue, crossed twice by
STFDE COLORED RIBBONS
that begin high in the under arm seams
anu point to the end of the waist, the
lower ribbon knOtted at the point in
front. and that above it merely folded.
The square cOrnered jacket is without
revers. but it. and also the high collar,
has pointed Irish guipure lace set on.
with the points turned up. A full en-
pre- pun around the top OF the sleeve
has band of blue ribbon folded around
Its lower edge. and a similer band of
suede ribbon finishes the sleeves below
the elbow, while deep puff. like an
undersleeve, of the Irish lace issues
from it, covering the arm down
close to the hand, making the
very long sleeves that are now so fash
iOnable. The suede ribbon on the
lower part of the silk sleeve is given
the effect of a tuTned-back cuff in a
simple. pretty way. by being doubled to
show both its corded edges turned up
ward, then left open at the inside seam.
Another fancy is that of making a
round waist of peau de sole or satin of
the color of the flowers IN the foulard
skirt. while its Sir Joshua fichu and leg
o mutton sleeves are of the foulard.
For instance, black foulard with de-
sign of hOneysuckles has the
waist of stem green, like that
of the stems Of the honey
EuckleS, with a fichu and great
sleeves of the foulard. There are
no collars on such waists. but black lace
Is turned down full around the neck and
upward from the wrists, and is some
times set around the top of the skirt.
In this hOneySuckle dress the back of
the skirt hooks upon the waist, and the
front of the skirt has a point of black
lace set Oh it like girdle: this requires
the outside of the skirt to be finished
quite separate from the foundation
skirt, and the edge Of the waist is then