Wichita eagle., 1888-06-10
IN A STROUD FACTORY.
4 THOUSAND GIRLS HAPPY IN A
STRANGE OCCUPATION.

4 THOUSAND GIRLS HAPPY IN A
STRANGE OCCUPATION.
The Shroudnaakers Of New York q Dis
tinet Glass Of Needle Pfyers-Clothine
for the Dead-vaxious Designs, Grades
and Fashions.
There are over one thousand well fed, well
dressed, well paid young women IN New
Yor;s city who earn their living making
shrouds for the dead The "Song of the
Shirt was not written for them They
sing no songs with voices of dolorous pitch,
and indeed they have very little reason for
doing so. Their songs are as merry as the
day is long, and are sung to the busy hum Of
sewing machines, Less doleful melodies it
would be hard to find
The srroudnakars Of New York form a
distinct class of bread winners. They differ
from other needle plyers as essentially as
silversrniths differ from locksmiths An ex-
perienced shroudmaker may know how TO
make dress, but dressnaker has little or
no knowledge IF how shroud should be con-
structed- This part is emphasized whenever
adressmaker secures employment in a shroud
factory. Before she Is able TO earn the reg
ular wages of her craft she must serve an
apprenticeship, the length of which depends
solely upon her aptitude to learn the peculiar
knack OF this strange trade. There are twelve
well known firnas in this city engaged in the
manufacture of shrouds, and it is in their
factories that all the work is done. The
wages are well maintained although fixed
by no union, and employment Is guaranteed
the year through, for the sale of shrouds is
not marked by any of the fluctuations which
are noted in some other branches OF manu-
facture.
New York is the recognized Headquarters
for the clothing of the dead as well as of the
living. There Is nothing about a shroud
factory TO indicate the character of its
product. Even the rows OF collins and entic-
ing varieties of caskets in the ware room be
low seem to belong TO another business alto
gether. The showcases that are visible from
the head of the stairs, with their display of
the latest styles in shrouds, appear TO have
been left there, perhaps by some previous
tenant, and bear no possible relation to the use
the roons are now being put. Il is very diff
cult to imagine that these light hearte: girls
who chat so merrily over their machines ars
such is the case, and TO them the work is ne
more dclorogs than the making of shIrts.
CHATTER AND CHATTER
If you are curious come with me to one Of
the largest factories in the city, within "a few
blocks of Cooper union, in the Bowery. and
see for yourself. AS the door of the shop
opens the noise is almost deafening. Between
the chatter of the machines on the one hand
and the chatter of the girls on the other, one
can hardly hear himself speak IL is 10 o'clock
early for Us, perhaps, but not for the girls
They have been at work since s. and one
quarter of their day has already been spent
In the center of the room is a double row of
sewing machines, varying in size and power,
and all fastened TO two long and narrow
tables with little round places cut in the
sides into which the operators snugiy fit At
the other end of the room are several counters
forming quadrangle Within this square
sit dozen young women chatting and sewing,
while tall, middle aged, motherly woman
ships out OF yards upon yards of black, white
and brown cloth patterns of shroudS Shrouds
with long skirts, shrouds with short skirts
shrouds with no skirts at all. ShroudS for
the rich and shrouds for the POOR. And such
patterns they are.
This elaborate design III white satin, with
soft ruching around the neck and feecy
ruiies around the wristbands, is modeled
after a wedding gown as nearly as is posi-.
bic considering the different use it is 10 he
put to. 1t will grace the funeral of some
rich patron of fashionable undertaken.
This plain black garment with a false shirt
bosom and collar which ties behind with
cord, is patterned after an evening suit 1t
is quiet and emInently respectable. IL is
intended for man of middle age and costs
quite as much as a suit worn in life Besides
these there are robes of brown and cornhina-
tons of brown and black, some faced with
satin, some with silk, and others plain even
TO severity. These form the cheaper grade
of goods and are worn by men or women Of
advanced years. The white robes are all in
tended for the young. Some Of these are
marvellous pieces of work, and il eInbroid-
cred by hand would cost small fortuna
This little gown would hardly reach from
your hand 10 your elbow. The tiny neck
band is rufiled and tied together in front
with white satin bow. The little sleeves
are covered with embroidery and the skirt is
trimmed with lace. II is baby
sLroud and is the smallest size that is made
The styles in shrouds are continually
changing. Every fashion used by the living
contributes to the ro6ing Of the dead. Each
large factory has its special designer, and
not even death can still the competition be-
tween acknowledgements Northrup II St
Louis Republican