The Delaware ledger. (Newark, Del.) 1879-19??, 1888-05-12
In GUADALAIARA.
LIFE AMONG THE. WORKERS OF A
PROSPEROUS MEXICAN CITY.

View from the Cathedral Towcr-A lc-
euiIar Kind Of Pottery-I.nrc IIIigrcc
worL-Feathcr Work.
Cuadalaja ra-upon tho left bank Of the
bio Gran'le do Santiago, just asj miles west
from the City Of Mexico and 50 miles from
the rariiic--hns been called ~ihc Chicago Of
Mexico" because Of it. mt rpri,e and liberal
kleus. It, present population Is Officially re-
corded as 93,SI5, and, thou "a 50 remote from
railroads and little known to the outer ,vor,d
Il has street cars, electric lights, tcnl.naes,
fine system OF water works, and other I'll
juicts 1T ai advanced civilization 1t lies IN
tho midst Of region 50 fcrtile-l.l re fruits,
cereals, AMI vegetables grow in astonishing
abundamcc--llat the outlying lrcienlas
Ni,l'l as li-h a. iifty bushels Of corn 70 the
acre twice in every year, the fifSt crop hcing
planted Ia February and the Second ia July.
The city boasls OF no fewer than fourteen
plans, more than dozen public fountains,
inmnncri'le rhurchcs, a fine oplra hause and
several tIeni.cs an elegant casino or club
hnusc, mint, d city hall, splendid univcr-
siiy, ana the only academy Of fine arts in
Mcxiro, exc pt that Of San Carlos at the
national capital. The grant catheIrnl-a
magnificent structure situated on the Plaza
va NA0 NRAllAlAlA III ANl'i IAA IT.
outer appearance was greatly impaired 10y the
earthquake OF 1878, which destroyed the
cupolns Of both its towers
From the top OF tho cathedral tower the
lover OF the picturesque may obtain a view
WATCH will delight his soul. One thing that
will probably strike him with surprise, ii new
to Mexicnn cities, is the absence Of rhiancys,
viii h In other countries form so prominent
feature Of such views. In all this sunny
country there is no such thing as a stove or
fireplace. hence no chimneys. In Julis,o tho
temperature remains at about 20 deg. from
year to year, and, though the traveller will
feel inclined to keep in the shade at MONDAY,
he should wear flannel Undertaking CON
stantly and light ovcrcoat in the evening
The cooking is all done with charcoal, in
Dutch ovens built out Of doors, or in earthen
pots similar 10 our large sized plant jars,
partly filled with Goals, upon which smaller
jars arc placed. Chimneys would he a super
fluffy, for nobody wants a fire in the house
with the thermometer never below the seven
tics, and for the same reason he objects to
inclosng himself in a conservatory By put
ting glass in his windows when all the winds
Of heaven are welcome But, though he
should want it never so badly. fuel enough t.
run ono Of our wasteful cooking machines
would be entirely out OF the question, since
coal--which Is mostly imported from England
costs 81 per ton and wood so per cord.
Gasoline Is unObtainable, and petroleum sells
for Sl.25 per gallon.
Various trades are carried on in Guadala-
jara with great Success, particularly silver
suiithing. blacksmithing, and carpentering
Among the manufactures those Of iron. steel,
glass, and q peculiar kind Of pottery, are
cclear;;el all over the republic Indeed, the
fame Of "Guadalajara pottery: is world wide
There Grc the queerest designs Of carafes odd
water jugs with two spouis or ono, jars,
mug, pitchers with long noses and siubby
handles, etc, made OF baked clay, highly
glazed with black, pale gray or dark rcd
ground, painted with impossible flowers and
figures which it would be no violation Of tue
second commandment to worship, all quaint
enough to rank high in any collection of
ceramics. When new this ware irnparts to
the water 1t contains strange flavor, which
is greatly relished hy the Mexicans, but as
much disliked by most other people
The gayest Of serapes and the finest Of
rebosos are also manufactured hereabouts;
also paper and printed calico. The lligee
work Of the Guadalajara jewellers is simply
wonderful, and may be seen any day in every
stage Of progress because in all tropical
countries, as in the far cast, the majority Of
workmen follow their vocations in the opc,
air. The gold and silversmiths ply their
intricate trade outside their little shopy, on
the street corners anywhere, undisturbed Ly
the dust and confusion around them. They
make exquisite bits Of ornamentation Of the
gold known in commerce as "etruscan,"
meaning the dark, rich, reddish yellow
variety. These works are much more pOpu-
lar in Europe than on this continent, and
across the Atlnntic no collection OF jewels or
ornaments is considered complete without
q set Of Mexican fligreo work At every
street corner nre little stands, whore genuine
treasures IN the way OF antique jewelry or
exquisite specimens of filigree work may be
bought for a song There are bracelets, neck
laces, combs, earrings crucifxes-in Short
every imaginable device-some set with
the beautiful opals Of Queretaro, or pearls
from the California gulf, or topazcs,
nmethysts, garnets, "cats eyes from other
portions Of Mexico
The Guadnlajaran wood carvers are also
famed for the beauty Of their workmanship
In n hundred little shops we find sWarthy
worl:mcn patiently carving bits OF wood into
wonderful rOsaries, every bead Of which
shows miniature picture Of some scriptural
scene, heads which are really perfect portraits
for the tips Of canes and umbrellas, rings,
boxes cigarette CASES, buttons, etc. The cane
carriers, who have over 200 varieties Of rich
native wood TO chose from, produce some
wonderful sticks and many Of the most OK
quisitc umbrella and paraaol handles known
90 commerce arc wrought by these unknown
and poorly paid workmen.
Mexican gold and silver embroidery, thread
/ f.,e,
al.o command universal admiration. But the
[ richest and most curious Of all is the plumajc
or feather work, which is made only in
Mexco, and nowhere better than in Guadaln-
jara-tho secret Of which is known only to
certain families in which il has been pre-
served for centuries. In this city there are
elegant mansions decorated something as were
Mpntenmn' palaces with feather work the
most elaborate, which is neither tapestry nor
applique, nor is it woven into or sewn upon
the foundation There arc magnificent cur
tats, also, besides altar cloths, scarfs, hang
ing, Und other decorations, made Of som,
heavy Hiatern urnnmented in an indcscri
baby brilliant manner by leaves and foliug,
uf embroidery, in which birds stand out il
bold relief because the latter are made Of til,
natural plumngc Of the birds themselves. b,
some my ,'eriouy process Known only 10 TIN
artists, these real feathers are wrought upol
TIE stuffed surface so naturally that tho hr,
irom which the plumage came is perfect,
reproduo,d
Tie SANG art is also exercised upon cards
larsc and mall, scarf pins, hair ornaments
ETC.. nnd the tniest hummng birds and th
tall'et II the -torS family nrc accurately roI
resented The rlumnje Of the ancient Mes
leans hn, often been described by earl
writers, and 81 few ragged specimens Of I'll
the royal Gather ciuaks worn by M0utzum
AMI bis hoblcs may Still he seen fluttoi1n
ulon tile walls Of muscuma -Guadaluiar
d, tMcsicul Letter.