The Arkansaw traveler., 1888-05-12
SUNDAY NIGHT IN HA-
 WANNA.
Correspondence New York Times,

COTreSpODu6nC0 NEW IOEk 1lmcS.
 Sunday is the day of the week to see the Cuban cities at their best. The shops do not close, but little business is done and everybody makes holiday. The chief bull fights, cock fights and masquerade balls arc always held on Sunday. This year it has been dull one, comparatively speaking, in all the Cuban cities. The bull fights were to begin in Cienfuegos the Sunday fol- lowing our arrival there, and the en- tire population, headed by brass hand, met the steamer which brought the fighters and the bulls from Spain. In Havana there were no bull fights the Sunday we reached there, but the French Opera company sang the "Mascot" at the Tacon theater in the evening; the Cervantes performance was in full blast, and there was masked ball at the Tacon theatre. It was necessary, SO our guide said, that we should attend all three. We did. We saw and heard Bennatti and Mez- ieres in the "Mascot," and found the Cubans liked the "gobble song" as we'll as the New Workers. We saw the ballet, so called, at the Cervantes, about which the less said the better. New York is not a moral city, but such performance would last just about ten minutes here without being stopped by the police. Then, as mid night approached, we retraced our steps to the Tacon, paid three pesos, about S1.20 each, for tickets and went in to the masked ball. The orchestra seats of the huge building, said to be the third largest theater in the world, the Metropolitan opera house and La Scala, at Milan, ranking first and sec- ond, respectively, with its triple tier of white painted boxes, had been foored over and joined to the immense stage. There was no attempt what ever at decoration, and notwithstand- ing the brilliant colors of the dom- inos worn by the women on the floor, the house looked bare and cold. There were two orchestras, mostly composed of negroes. These were stationed in the upper galleries one on each side of the house, and they played alter nately. Most of the women wore dominos, and except when dancing walked around continually, talking in @ high and most dissgreeable falsetto voice. There were several quadroons and mulattoes in ordinary evening high-necked dresses. The men as 8 rule wore black coats and business suits and kept their hats on. The only dress suit visible was worn by an American. The music tor the ddnza, as it is called, which was danced per- sistently, consisted of a single bar, which was played over and over again, until it seemed as if the musicians must die from sheer weariness. Sev- eral harsh instruments gave it a semi- barbaric character. The favorite in- strument appeared to be one that seemed cross between gourd and 8 banjo, and this was played with re- lentless energy by a stalwart negro with what looked like the handle of an old toothbrush. The danza resem- bles our waltz; it has the same step, but the dancers merely walk the steps and do not give it any grace of move ment. They dance with preternatu- rally solemn countenances and in half hour sessions. When tired, or when by some rare and happy chance the music stops, they gaze at each other inconsolably and then go at it again. Americans can only look on it in si- lent wonder.
 As the night wears on the danza de- generates at Tacon ball into vul- gar performance. There is compara- lively little drinking, except of pam ales sugar and water at these balls, but quarrels are nevertheless of frequent occurrence. While on this particular night we stood watching the curious performance one couple near us jostled against another. There were a few nasty words passed between the men, two handsome young Cubans, and then quick as flash one drew . short knife and plunged it through the .oth- CTS cheek. Instantly there was a great commotion and the crowd on the floor rushed toward the combatants. There was babel of tongues; the two men glared at each other for moment, and then made their separate ways through the crowd, leaving their dominoed parties to scream and shake their it- tie fists at each other.
 twill they fight outsider" we asked our guide.
 "No, indeed, he replied. "The wounded one will go to . doctor, the