Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-03-31
APRIL FASHIONS.
no~ern Science Applied tn Dress Fan
rics for Women-s Wear.

Modern Science Applied To Dress Fab
rics for WOmen's Wear.
APPLICATION OF MACHINERY TO ORIENTAL WORK
TRx PRoBIEa OF TRIMNINGs-A NEW DEPARTURE
IN YOUTHFUL oosrUNEs-rHE STRIPED FLANNEL
DKKss FOz oUT-oF-DOOR SPORTS
Prom Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. March TO
Those who are interested IN the advancement OF
MANUFACTURES on permanent lines are gratined 10
md that in all the best productions OF the silk
looms for the present season there IS less OF willing
ness to sacrifice the really good to something
pretty and striking; and more OF an effort TO work
on permanent lines and adhere TO standards or
create new ones OF better character. This has
been the case during the past twenty years In va
rious kinds OF productions, notably In wooden and
cotton materials used for dress purposes; nor do
we at all realize the vast expenditure, the amount
of experimenting, the skill, the scientific knowl-
edge. and finally the persistent. patient industry
which enters into new departure or on acsual
improvement OF which only see the results.
Black SILKS are always in demand, always stand
ard fabric; and some French manufacturers, when
they produce a new 'rnake7 OF SILK, send a sample
dress pattern 10 OF the great London houses u
be Tested" 70 wearing qualities The piece Is
made up into n 'shOp" dress for one or the young
ladies In the mantle department.; the manufac-
turers rightly considering that II IL can stand the
wear ana tear OF putting on and taking OF OF
clOaks and mantIss without developing bad quail
ties IL viii b. good for ordinary service.
THE NOVELTY or THE SEASON
In the bonnet silk, Is new, black, shot tafIetta
called '.sois cuir," which Is thick, supple rich
looking Grapes well and looks an almost perfect
silk It is said 10 have been tested abroad ana
found 10 bear any amount OF crushing and rubbing
Tor the warp Is supple and the 1ber cooked" 10 rid
~ OF exIraneOus properties. The cost Is quite
high-ei2ht ShilingS and six pence per yard IN
England; $3.50 per yard here, for less heavy
Embroidered China silks; embroidered not by the
cunning hands OF the Chinese, but in the looms OF
France The embroidery Is executed IN button
hole stitch In various designs. In self delicate
contrasting cOlOrs and adds just the touch OF en-
Tiching OrnamentatiOn which the somewhat
negative character OF the fabric needs The
eIusitely printed Eastern silks and pongees AFFORD
another instance or western skill In overcoming
the inadequate results of Eastern methods as APP
slow and patient processes OF hand labor the
foundation stun but We can now Initiate success
fully, and add 70 their beauty by an infinite variety
CHARMING EFFECTS IN COLOR AND DESIGN.
This application OF tints, forms and loom en-
brOldery, gives US whole class Of cool, soft and
lovely fabrics which have hitherto been for many
unavailable because their fiat and inspid character
required positive genius. as well as expensive ap
piled decoration, TO render them attractive and
becoming. We have had more or less attempts for
years 10 accomplish this end. but they were usu
ally not successful. because not adapted 10 the
fabric. The colors were too high, the designs too
common place. More art has now been developed in
shading and coloring; more delcacy and harmony
with the character OF the StufIs put into the de-
sign. Coins and crescents, interiOcked rings and
rayed suns, Keys and palms vie with dainty flow
eretS and nbrouS antennaB Of woods and fields and
ocean caves. The 'shOJ, or changeabe silks, are
rndiDg place OF their OWE, rich Innings, fac
Jugs, trimmings and mOuntingS. There Is great
effort expended upon them however, TO make
them acceptable for complete toilets. Among the
best effects is one In red and bronze, obtained by
dipping the SILK In one color while II Is still wet
with the other. Velvets are dyed TO match these
rch silks, in order that they may be combined with
them.
Ask FOR ELDERLY LADIES'
A silk which some elderly ladies would delight
a.. who remember some such design and colorfng
In their young days-cOnsists OF a narrow satin
stripe In dark-moss green, with tiny vine OF red
stripe In light green over red, which produces q
sort OF gray shade and makes quiet, ''od-fash-
Toned" combination. Young girls might wear 1t
as pompadOur OveTdreSs, with dark moss
green skirt. Magnificent silks are still shown for
grand occasions, these now occur all the year
round. Among these are lovely Louis Seize bro
cades and ivory silks with striped satin and dull
corded surface, with trailings OF moss or ground
creepers over the surface and orchids or spray OF
hedge roses, grouped here and there upon the sur
face. IL Is recognized that IL would be sin TO
loop and bunch and twist and mangle these fne
fabrics. Modlstes who respect beauty in material
make tneIn WITH square or pointed bodiceS, elbow
sleeves; sleeves and bodice drapei with old lace
and long, plain, elipticaI trains.
SILK AND WOOL
There was a time when "mixed, fabrics were
discredited because they Will not ''clean" or dye
well. and cannot be exposed to rain or moisture
without showing the effects, in a rough and drawn
appearance, the result OF difference in fiber As
good black does not need re-dyeing but keeps its
color as long as IL lasts. the objection does not
hold In regard TO such materials as the silk-warp
"Henrietta" cloths; but 1t has done much to
destroy the prestige OF Irish pOplins once a fash
1OnaDle and always rtch-lOOklng and costly fab
ric- The new siik-and-woOl materials do not show
the mixture OF hber In the body Of the stufs. This
Is all OF wool The silk Is introduced as wide,
corded stripe, sometimes blocked in Two shades OF
color; sometimes forming a cluster or lines, or
again, two stripes. one OF satin, one OF corded,
chsngeaole silk The color may be contrasting or
In different shades Of the se-cOlor The object is
10 produce rich, striped effect in the fabric for
side panels vest or bodice trimming. and, If re-
quired, for the bottom or the skirt The fashion,
able colors are the new shades OF peach con-
trasted with pale blue or cream, olive or bronze
cream, yellow, and black and brown with yellow
and gObenn blue. When contrasting color IS
used it Is 10 delicate tints; when varied color In
clustered lines The woven silk trimming is sold
apart from the plain material and at a much
higher price; but large quantity OF the stripe Is
not required, and the effect Is novel and very
Handsome.
HAND EMBROIDERED.
There IS nothing, however, that EQUALS the effect
Of hand embroidery upon some OF the new cloth
dresses Two made recently for carriage and
luncheon wear were both made In two shades OF
one color, gray and gobelin blue. The narrow
shade embroidered exquisiteIy with steel and sill
YER In an open. lace-like pattern. The fastening
was enected with small buttons OF old wrought
silver All the Draiding and embroidery put upon
pattern dresses OF cotton or wool is executed so as
10 form suitable lines OF insertion for panels vest
Elects, alternate stripes, but not finished edge
as formerly, Tor bordering. This iGea "a carried
cut In lace and dress enbrOderies The wide
uOunclag, deep enough for skirt, hung Straight
Is now out OF date and can be obtained at much
lower prices than formerly. The more recent de.
Signs IN piece lace and embroidery have no border
ana are used as parts OF the costume are draped
used ful upon the side and drawn in with ribbons
and lAi1 surplce fashion upon the bodice Fig
nred lace Is better used In this way than cotton
eInOrOidery, unless the material Is very thin and
light In texture and the nyuTe small. Heavier cot
ton emorolQerieS are employed Tor inserted pieces
put In plain; the ullness Is arranged In the plain
material
CzoSs-OvER EFFECTS
The fun bodice for thin materials IS as fashion,
able as ever, but the crOSs-over or surpice style
has superseded the straight, belted bodice The
bodice Is still belted, and the round trim feet Of
The waist preserved; but the diagonal line across
the 'front.', from the right OF the shoulder 10 the
lett or the waist, Is graceful ana becoming and
brings the drapery AT the neck 70 the REQUIRED
point al the bust. The new form O! polonaise il
crossed over from right 10 left giving the surple
eject 70 the bodice which Is belieI In at the waist
Il pointed and craped apron effect TO the front and
an opening upon the left SIDE 10 the edge OF the pol
onals. which shows the skirt, and affords the op-
Dortunity Tor specialized panel trimmings though
This is not needed with a combination Of plan ana
stripped material A pretty costume, made re-
tt&lLly may serve as an example. The pOlOnaise
Was OF nne, peach-cOlOred wOO the skirt OF striped
sHA, peach and cream The belt was OF thics
and the buckle holding it was OF old wroughi
silver. There was no trimming UPON thIs dress