The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1888-03-29
LETTERS TO THE MONDAY
EVENING CLUB.
FROM MRS. NJ. NJ. BowMAN.-No. 2.

us still on sandy soil, covered with low
grease wood, cactus, redwood and oak
trees, with great punches OF mistletoe
growing on The branches. With eight
sections ahead and two following it is
impossible to run very last for fear OF
accidents to the crowded trains, and
frequent stops are made, at all OF which
everybody climbs off to see the country
and poke curious heads into the Settlers
cabins aud Mexican adObes. At four
we reach Tuscon, and here, as in all
the semi-American-M Mexican towns,
finds the sharp contrasts of both civil
fzations. The peach aud apricot trees
are in blossom, the shadows lay on the
soft brown hills that surround the
town, and fverything denotes that
spring has come in country that knows
no winter. The streets Of modern
stores, handsome homes, and fine pub
lie buildings, are in friendly compan-
ionship with the narrow zig gag streets
of the low adobe, shops and saloons o.
the earlier time. The dwellings
ancient and modern are built with wide
vetandas running around the four sides
showing that out door life is as unIver-
sal, and more tO-be desired than the
indoor housing through the long cold
winters of more rigorous climates. One
resident enthusiastically exclalms:
"Why, ladies and gentlemen, this CITY
is older than New York." and sure
enough it is. The mind runs back to
the Aztec's, their ancestors, the Toll
tees, and the possible nations that may
have proceeded them centuries before
Kit Carson fought Indians and lived
his wild life in these mountains. The
rich silver mines of Arizona, to which
Tuscon is gateway. have made 1t
prosperous and thriving city. The
morning finds us at Y una for breakfast.
The sun is shining with all the heat
and fervor of a day in June. the skies
are cloudleSs, the air is heavy with
fragrance from the pepper trees, those
trees that are thing of beauty and a
Joy forever to Kansas eyes. The trunk
of this tree is large and the bark shaggy,
the branches drOop like those of d
weeping willow, the leaves are long,
pinnate in form and from the limbs
hang punches of bright red berries
with the smell aud taste of pepper.
The perfume from them is delicious,
the tree graceful. the droop-
ing branches swaying the soft
warm air as gently as d fan in the hand
OF languId Spanish beauty. Yuma
is an Indian Mexican town, situated In
a small fertile valley on the banks OF
the Colorado river, which here is wide
and swift. tits twenty-four feet below
the sea level, fact that puzzles scien,
lists to satisfactorily account for, and
is said to be the warmeSt place III
America. Date and fan palms grow
to a great height. The trees are in full
leaf and where irrigated vegetable gar
densa are luxurious. A jolly fellow pas
senger, from Chicago, who weighs at
least two hundred and fifty pounds and
is the life of the car, made bargain
with the grocers' boy, who was dellv-
ering goods at the hotel, securing his
wagon during the two hours we re-
manned here, and with his wife invited
TWO Of us to jump in and take a look
at the town. We drive up the hill
upon the summit of which the State
penitentiary is built, two prisoners i'll
their striped clothes, standing at the
grating are highly amused at our novel
vehicle. Up over the hill we go, that
overlooks the green and fruitful valley
around which the river rushes to the
sea. Down through the narrow street
we drive, stopping to admire garden,
whereupon the gracious lady steps out
and in her musical language speaks a
few words to beautiful young girl,
who comes to the wagon with hands
full of fragrant gilly-fiOwers and pre-
sents them with shy grace. and smiles
in return for thanks which she does
not understand. Indians and natives
live in alternate houses. the fiat adobe
of the country. The former are dirty
and repulSive with their heads plaSt-
cred over with mud, and gather around
the cars to beg and shoot for nickles.
The church door is open and we step
in to see the customary benches and
floor, the altar Ornamented with the
cheap artificial flowers. and the walls
with paintings of Our Lady, of some
thing more than usual merit. The old
fort buildings on the hills on the north
west bank of the river, are now used as
school for Indian children.
After leaving Yuma we enter the
desert of that name, and for seven mis-
cradle hours ride over the bare white
alkali, with not living thing in sight,
except now and then a buzzard rises
and flies through the air. We try not
to look out, play cards, read
and put forth all our self
control to endure the miserable heat
and choking alkali dust, munching
oranges and lemons to make life en-
durable; but some dreadful fascina-
tion keeps the eyes strained to catch
sight of something, if only twig.
About half way across we come to
Volcano Springs, which those who have
the courage to investigate, report to be
two or three springs of boiling mud
A shanty off at short distance covers
a salt well, and another near by is oc-
cupied by an industrious China boy.
which this Western country, despite
all that is said, could lily spare. Aswe
ride along, off to the left are groves of
beautiful trees, islands of emerald
green and streams of pure running
water, which, alas is only the mirage
of the desert.
at IndiO at 4 O'Clock we reach the
western limit'of this wretched tract of
the earth's surface, and see again the
graceful pepper trees, the tall fan-palm
and, best of all to the tired traveller,
get good dinner.
Indio is surrounded on three sides by
mountains, is place of perpetual sun
shine, dry air. giving life and health to
invalids. There is as yet nothing here
but the hotel and one or two cottages.
At Clifton our party separate. some