The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-03-31

draped, used full upon the side and drawn
m with ribbons and laid surplice fashion
upon the bodice. Figured lace is better
used in this way than cotton embroidery,
unless the material is very thin and light in
texture, and the figure small. Heavier cot
ton embroideries are employed for inserted
pieces, put in plain; the fullnesS is arranged
in the plain material.
CRoss-ovER EFFECTS.
The full bodice for thin materials is as
fashionable as ever. but the cross-over or
surplice style has superseded the straight,
belted bodice. The bodice is still belted.
and the round, trim effect of the waist pre-
served; but the diagonal line across the
front, from the right of the shoulder to the
left of the waist, is graceful and becoming
and brings the drapery at the neck to the
required point at the bust.
The new form of polonaise is crossed over
from right to left, giving the surplice effect
| to the bodice, which is belted in at the
waist, pointed and draped apron effect to
the front and an opening upon the left side,
| to the edge OF the polonaise, which shows
the skirt, and affords the opportunity for
specialized panel trimmings though this is
not needed with combination of plain and
| striped material.
A pretty costume made recently, may
serve as an example. The polonaise was of
fine, peach colored wool; the skirt of striped
silk, peach and cream. The belt was of
| thick, corded silk, matching the peach tint
of the wool, and the buckle holding it was
of old wrought silver. There was no trim
ming upon this dress
The trimmings of the season are beauti-
full, but they are very expensive. There
are gold and silver passementerieS as fine
as lace and untarnishable; there are
beaded trimmings, each one of the
myriads put in by hand and costing S25
| for yard: There are fine crocheted trim
mings, which would be beautiful as speci-
mems of work; and which, in their quiet
appearance of wealth, harmonic so adj
mirably with fine black cashmere and
camel's hair, that it is hard TO resist them.
But the cost is as great as the dress or the
garment they are to decorate; perhaps
more; and many women, perfectly capable
of approaching them, have to study up
designs, by which applied trimming will be
dispensed with; since they will not use a
cheap and perishable substitute for the
good. Fine folds of silk, narrow, corded
| galoons, braids and touches of rich, con-
trasting material, are substitutes for expen-
sive trimming, for middle-aged ladies. For
the young, costly ornamentation is not
suitable-it ages them-the contrast Of
pretty materials is better
QUITE NEW DEPARTURE
|
such youthful and informal dresses Of wool,
as tennis, croquet, boating and Badoning-
| ton costumes. The latest are made of
striped flannel; not combination of plain
and striped flannel, nor flannel mounted
with silk, or leather or velvet: but flannel
pure and simple in a stripe. Stripes solid,
stripes narrow, stripes wide, stripes cluS-
tered or stripes rayed, but always striped.
There is a little affectation of the wheel
and tennis attire of men. in these costumes;
in the Garabaldi or blouse waists, gultleSs
of lace or finish at the throat, in the loose
shirt sleeve, slightly gathered into a cuff
and the little silk handkerchie knotted
under or over the collar at the neck. The
skirt is tucked or plated and made quite
without drapery, a scarf sash knotted at
| the side.
New tweeds and summer sergeS, very
| light, but firm of texture, have mixed
| grounds, in which the red, blue, brown or
! gray tone predominates; the lighter or
| darker shades forming mere lines, but not
distinct stripes of solid color. These, In
quiet tints, make excellent travelling dresses,
suitable for a summer trip abroad, or
among the woods, lakes and mountains of
our Wn land Beige is useful also for this
| purpose. 1t is less harsh, more refined in
texture and tint than formerly, and is best
trimmed with narrow bars and loops of
silk galoon, arranged cadet fashion across
the front and as a panel at the sides, or
forming narrow front TO the skirt, which
should be kilt-plaited on either side of it,
THE SPRING JACKET.
always appears with the spring 1t is per-
| ennial. 1t is also pretty and useful. Mount
ings, collars and cuffs of velvet have disap-
peared from this little garment. 1t is dis
covered that the jacket is more stylish and
distinctive without them. The only trim
ming allowed are bars of silk galoon or
small crochet brandebourgs across the front,
and the latter are only adapted to the
more formal style of jacket, and are usually
accompanied by epaulette to match, for
| left shoulder. The very newest jacket is of
terra Gotta red, very dull old gold or gobe-
/ lin blue cloth, with very long hairs here
and there upon the surface. 1t is finished
in tailor fashion, with rolling collar and
facing Gnterior of twilled silk, matching
In shade. The buttons are red bronze, gold
bronzed or oxydized silver, and fiat bars of
narrow silver and steel, or red or gold braid
may be stitched across the front, and the
looped ends fastened with buttons.
This sounds rich; in reality any girl could
make such jacket for herself with an ex-
penditure of SO or 81. Materials are so
moderate in price, and buttons which imi
tate pure metal, made so cheaply that they
are attainable by anyone who earns or
possesses a very moderate income. 1t is
the labor, the ability to cut and make,
that commands the high price.
Some of the best modistes are making
with spring costumes of silk and wool,
pretty jackets of the cloth shade, with a
narrow, interior facing of the silk, but no
applied trimming The form is tight lifting
at the back but loose in front, with rolling
collar, with slightly crossed or double
breasted effect when the jacket is fastened,
which is effected with three buttons only,
the lower fronts being cut away short and
| in a square, showing the vest or bodice,
and giving a little ''dress coat" touch.
| These Jackets are used for complete COS
TUNES, the hat or bonnet matching.
MANTLEs
have become so costly that they are the
most difficult part of the wardrobe to man
age The masses of fine jets and trimmings
of which they are mainly composed make
them look like jewels; the silk or body part
of the fabric forming a simple line, upon
which the rich ornamental part of the gar
nent hangs The new and dressy wraps
and mantles are practically composed of
| three parts-braces of silk laid in folds and
| finished with short, full basque back and
pointed ends in front of silk and lace.
| Deep. pointed collarette of jetted lace or
pass nenteries with pendant buttons and
shoulder pieces forming an epauette-shaped
sleeve composed Of falls of Jetted lace or
festoons of jet upon plated lace.
| Rnt the finest little mantles of this kind