The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1888-04-15
FROM VENICE TO BOLOGNA.
A Winter Vacation in italy eculiarities Oh
Italian Cities-The Qusan of the Adriatlc.


Written for ths Sunday Journal.
1t would be impossible to describe my regrss
on leaving beautiful Venice. l postponed ~
parture until the last moment. for l did not
want to be awakened from my dream. but
time would not stand STILL and at last the giori-
GUS sun sank to rest in the Adriaslc upon my
final day there Still 10th TO leave, threw my
few articles of wearing apparel In my trunK'
and, like the Arab, silently stole away eAr'y
one morning before Venice was awake Our
faithful Giovanni came rowing mp to sne door
before it scarcely light, and, Win oeep TO
orat "a If nart.nV from an old friend, stepped
into the ddngoa that soon afterwards moved
through the streets without sound Inc over
cast sky began to shed It's tears as If it shared
in the sorrow could not speak, neither did
want TO be spoken to; l preferred sience
Around sharp corners. through little narrow
canals, past old palaces whose occupants sun
dreamed away the hours, under low bridges
where were fastened the gondolas awaiting their
masters passiue objects already familiar TO us,
We at last came to the station, where we had
entered so joyously week ago. Here we once
more took the train and steamed across tne
marble bridge over the "Lagune Morte on to
the mainland. / watched the city gradually as
appear into the sea as had watched II come
forth. Nothing aroused me from my SAD
decided TO stop. and where happened one OF
those disagreeable episodes that may come 10
any foreigner travelling. As we mad sumclent
time we took the street-car that ran up into the
CITY, for you must know the railways in Italy do
not enter within the walls Of the Cities but land
the passengers at station sometimes mile
ontside maid our fares to the conductor. All
through Italy there is a large amount or monies
of other countries in circulation that will not
pass for face value The conductor took
the the money I offered him and gave me the
correct change. and passiag ou collected the
fares from all the other passengers ia the al
ready full car When nearing the street where
we were to get off, and after many people had
alighted whls we were en- route, the conductor
came along and said 90 the gentleman in front OF
~ did not pive it to you.n well somebody
did, said the conductor, and came over to me
repeating the remark. As he spoke his Italian
RAPIDLY than ny ears were trained TO
hear it, do not know how much more he adj
died. but he continued talking and when we
reached the end of the route. he followed us all
over the place, entering the restaurant
when we went for breakfast. From his gestures
and looks know he was telling the proprietor
that We were dishonest people and TO beware OF
That however. did not prevent US from
getting a good breakfast and we proceeded to
the curiosities of the city. There is much of
interest in this place of 1900 in
streets seem deserted and the place
is IN ruins. Wherever we went expected to
street-car conductor appear. Ferrara
was the seat of the Este family. Alphonse
marrying the notorious Lucrezia Borgia. and 1t
was in the old CASTILLO that he used to live.
Beneath ii are the terrible dungeons into which
through long corridors and down again through
doors. leading into passages underground,
we came into the worst Ilaces imaginable
places that compared with the dungeons beneath
the Doges' palaces in Venice. It WAS in this
castle that Parisina MAlstesta. of whom Lord
Byron sings, was put TO DEATH and into her
cachot went Through low doorway-so
low that 1t was necessary to bend double to en-
ter-we found ourselves in large room like a
cellar, damp ana dark. since the only light that
could enter came in through narrow opening
in the masonry that serves as window.
barred with double rows of iron bars. When
our guide closed the doorway, leaving the light
on the outside, cold shiver passed over me.
for / thought had our eternally appearing
street-car conductor so wished it we might easily
have been hidden there and the world wonld
never have known what had become Of us. But
happily such was not our fate. and we left the
castle to continue our sightseeing Not far
moved is another building in which tits said the
poet Tasso imprisoned, and the walls of
his cell are covered with names of il1ustrious
peopie-Among the list is that of Byron. Leave
ing Ferrara and our bette noir, the sire { car
conductor, we were very glad to find a NOR
congenial atmosphere IN Bologna city full of
novelties for me. 1t was here / saw one of
those curious open air representations in old
amphitheatre, OF which we read but rarely see.
When we reached Our hotel saw the announce
ment: "Grande representations .Lonore j
Morte," and ms the performance began at 8
o'clock in the afternoon we had to start imme-
diately. The arena was on the outer edge of
the city. and after long walk through narrow,
winding streets came upon the square In
front of it. On entering found ourselves
in vast arena, it's seats mounting
like steps. and there were crow ded
one above another these olive-colored, swarthy
Italians, IN their picturesque and gay costumes
all in holiday dress-the blues, reds and yell
lows of their petticoats and head-dresses max
ing brilliant picture. Overhead the
bright blue sky. already painted with its even
ing tints from the setting sun. Before the play
ended the people and players were beginning TO
be only shadows. but the voices of the actors
came TO us, making the narrowing play more
intense. The heroine, mother with two chill
dren. was accused OF having deceived her hug
band during his absence at sea, and on his re-
turn home he refused to speak to her. Being
innocent of the charges against her, she took
poison to prove her honor. and died in great ag-
ony before her husband and children IL was
strongly developed plot. and there was much
screaming and tearing of hair. combined with
all the exaRgeration OF gestures in which the
impetuous Italian nature abouuds; but the inn
Inenss audience seemed to believe everything
real Not word said while
the play was IN progress-not even a
whisper 20 the nearest neigh bor-as the
interest was intense. Ii person moved 80 an
to make the slightest noise he was almost ami
hiated by glance from the piercing dark ewes
of some him. Not only did the women
weep over the misfortunes of the heroine but
The audience interested me more than the play
and the great arena carried ME back In thought
to the days when Rome in her glory. assem-
bled her Rladiators in such places, there to show
their prowess and strength before the Emperore
and people. On way Switzerland we
shall 60 to Parma and stop more in Milan
CHARLES HOLMAN BLACK.