davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1888-09-23

'ohn LInnrmSS moSdi HHIari typ ~ WIS nj niG rs z
the most expensive lnce that the ingenuity and
patience ol women could produce.
Tho stern and bloody Protector then appeared
on the scene, and as the Cavaliers We're known
BY their loyelocks and the extravaganza Of their
attire, SO The konndhe9ds, We're Erown by their
lace collars OF tho Cavaliers were espeeialiS
marked down for destruction, and plain piece
Of turned down linen. called band, was
adopted by the Purtans. Such hands were
worn by the pilgrims Of tho Mnyfower, and arc
schoolboys.
When the second and last Charles came in
with the RESTORATION tho deep lace collar On mo
back, although only measurably So and It was
The sun., 1888-09-23

PoVNAs hh1 ~ t'Nfb =
Is not very deeply
buried. There was
\ passable deal of
lighting done in
those days. and men
were very much
buckled up and
closed in about the
head and neck and
shoulders. for the
old exposure idea
had been com pletely
reversed. When the
short interim OF
peace arrived and
tho helmet and coat
OF mail were laid
aside both the knight
and his man must
The sun., 1888-09-23
savars,y Attacked by a Squirrel.

SANTA ANNA. Tex, Sept. lN.-To-day, while
pr. d. Taylor was sitting outdoors near hls
llllhs reading . newspaper. IA gray squirrel
splhng rom The TOP ul he house and began lit /.
lLs hr. iaylgr, ii" thr"w the squirrel to the
ground mn II sPIang back upon the old gem
,iehian, blltng him more severely than ever.
neck and face SO seyerely that Dr. S,baWs al .Hs
wa, called In To- treat the WoundA. Mr. Taylor
finally killed tho squirrel There arc somA
LAA1s AhAt ths sakmaI hAa hydE0Dh0hlA
The sun., 1888-09-23

Wv "st"
neck, and head were
allowe d to como
freely into contact
with the open air.
this. 1t was believed,
being necessary. in
order to bring about
the requisite en-
durance, fire. edom Of
action, and graceful
ness OF Dose neces-
sary to perfect man
hood. If this were
an article for the dis
cussion of antique
notions 1t might be
contended that the
heavily uniform ed
soldiers OF to-day
y A..
The sun., 1888-09-23

monarch on tut i lel VI
though the English
King had no more
neck than a frog, he
decided to follow the
same fashion.
Gradually the rume
grew into the ruff,
and when Elizabeth
came to the throne
with ner neck rs long
and thin as her ia
ther's was short and
stout. she made the
run the prin cipal
point OF attire. 1t
grew in width and
h ic k ness; II was
starchcd and stilf-
The sun., 1888-09-23

the period-wigs that rose foot above the
head to the waist. This was rcally the first
cravat on record and when tied In loose
knot and allowed to hang loosely 1t was quite
q graceful ornament. ..
Gradually, as the wig was reduced, the cravat
was enlarged. and. from being passed but once
around tho neck, IL became the fashion. under
The sun., 1888-09-23

change to low-cut doublet or tunic n very
trying one. There is little doubt that throat
in the custom Of covering up the neck. and
from the custom by necessity it became the
fashion by choice. But, as has been sa d, this
neck covering was not only a collar. 1t was
rather the mufling up the neck in the folds OF
tho cloak or gown or hooded hat.
-. In tho, fifteenth century another change in
the fashion occurred and from drappi o.ic's
self until there was little difference in tho ai,-
pearance between q lusty and lean man. tho
The sun., 1888-09-23

tunic, whose ganeal-
oGy runs back to the
earliest days. the
collar is Il garment
OF com paratively
modern invention. 1t
is not even rs old as
the shirt, OF which it
may be considered n
sort of attach mont,
that latter portion OF
n mans wardrobe
having been long in
use before It was
thought necessary
TO tack n collar TO 1t.
Neither the Roman
nor his contcmpora-
rics wore collars,
says n writer in tho
san Francisco Cin'op-
icle, although 1t was
Tho focbipn with
The sun., 1888-09-23

nccktie WAS now rel.
egated to second
place, and though
the dandies rrided
themselves on tho
marvellouslv neat
way In which they
could dispose, d of
yards oflinen or silk.
the handy stock
slowly but surely
took its place. 1t
was not so heavily
stnrched at first ms
il was afterward. nor
did II project 80
sharply forward as
it was afterward
made to, but with
these and sundl'y
rthar n,inpr v,,,itn
The sun., 1888-09-23

lnced like u brides
nightgown, and the
hair as worn in
lovely rinslets hang
ing d o wn to til o
shoulders. 1t W a 8
impossible to wear
the ruftle with the
hair like this,
although IL was tried
for n short time, md
so the falling collar
was introd uce u.
Once introduced it
began to grow as ex-
trnyagantly as tho
runle had done. until
The sun., 1888-09-23

10 FhpN u W 'h't
ley Sam b ourn g s
treatment OF Glad
stones collar. While
this isthe staple col
lar for many old
men. a number OF
changes have been
made in the collars
for Younger people.
There Is not. in
fact. any such thing
as n settled fashion
of collar. and it
changes from venr
10 year like tho cut
uf a mans trousers.
Now it is turned
down. and now it
stands up. Some
times it ovcrlaps in
front, and at other
The sun., 1888-09-23

SWellS OF the time
almost went back to
first principles and
showed everything
they could. Their
tunicS were cut so
short. both below
and aloft. that they
were q good deal
after the style Of n
Card iGan jacket.
Their hose, which
scarcely joined their
doublets. were OF
every color OF the
rainbow. and alto
gether the highiiier
OF the fifteenth CEN
The sun., 1888-09-23

the gracious aHnc.
tion OF the house OF
Hanover, to swathe
the neck with folds
OF linen, to edge the
ends with lace. and
( hen tie them In
enormous bows, All
this time. 1t must be
remembered, 1t was
n collar ess age
again. Little bv little.
however. the collar
crept up and began
to assert itself until
about the time when
II ON Moore an q
III a. n, ~, N a fn DNnhnll
The sun., 1888-09-23

have done things in about 1910; Howard, Earl
volying the display OF Surrey
OF just as much endurance as the Roman
the fellows of 1883 years after Christ are not
Just as we'll proportioned and graceful as those
who lived, 1873 years before the coming Of that
great teacher.
The centuries went on but no collar ap-
peared. Tho PORTRAITS Of Justinian and Thco-
The sun., 1888-09-23

"A VUHIPTUIHIEv ''V"''r Nv '''' 7 q m q = IUHNUbI
time OF the Restoration we're in their power
(circum 1s00). II burst triumphantly from It's
whole lower part OF u mans face. The Byronic
school OF affected sentime talists took some OF
the stiOness out OF the "choker" as It was not
inaptly called but the fashion had come, to
stay. and stay 1t has with O. pertinncity that
The sun., 1888-09-23

Tho exaggerated hand; John tmrv ,nnst hnva
NINA e''' looked II good deal
like a trapeze performer in circus Francis
]. of France. however. while SNOWY man. had
not much of n neck TO boast OF. and accord
ingly he frowned down the male d6colletes and
wore a high collar with little lace rulie inside
1t to take OF rhe Stiffness Bluff King Hal saw
this little lace rufle when he met the French
monarch on the Field of tho Cloth OF Gold. and
The sun., 1888-09-23

RnRppearancc OF the collar times the opcninr
Thomas CampOell's neckwoar rms avny hack ho-
hind the ears. There are at present over fifty
varieties of collars. every one OF which is in
the fashion; although the strictly correct
thing. it is believed, is IN arrangement that
looks ~ if II man had worn n very high stand
up collar 10 IL picnic and had sweated down
tho edges
The sun., 1888-09-23

When no collsrs were needed: some OF the nations.
Temp Rich H.. Vrom the notably tho Gaus.
hariehh MOI TO wear necklaces or
torques OF gold and other than precious
metals. In those earlier, and harder
days IT was. the custom to go with rs
much OF the body exposed rs was compati-
bic with comfort and decency. Arms. legs
The sun., 1888-09-23
Eik Meat In sh- Msrhst.

T'""' wv I'V0E11'' VVF'FuIF7
A lot OF elk meat was displayed In front Of
market on Morrison street yeslerdAy, which
II believed 70 be the first ever offered for sale
here. IL looked like pieces OF large OF. but
WAS thinner than large oxen usually are when
The sun., 1888-09-23

comparatively a rea-
collar Of this timo
might be called a
com rom ise be-
tween tho plain linen
oil the subdued Puri-
tan and the oina-
mental lace OF the
rollicking Cavalier.
Gradually the col
lar bocame liInber
and impaT. Untilto-
ward the ond of tho
seventeenth century
II disappeIlre,i. and %
wisp ol lawn. linen.
or lace took It's place.
Indeed. there was no
way IN which q collar
The sun., 1888-09-23

uOSluS SHOW lHilL inc
tunic was still cut
straight across on II
level with the shoul-
ders. Changes Of cos
tune were effected in
the ninth century
and again in the
twelfth. but it was
not until the four
teenth century was
about to be entered
upon that the collar
was first seen in Eu-
rone. Even then it
was not what might
strictly be called a
collar in the true
haherd ashery mean-
Ing OF the word. Tho
doublet had gradu-
(. and gowns were in
The sun., 1888-09-23

cations. the big stnnd-up collar has re-
years. 1t is still worn in this and other
countries by conservative, old gentlemen,
the matter OF that, as is shown by Lin
The sun., 1888-09-23
HISTORY OF THE COLLAR.
ITS FEEBLE BEGISNING ABOUT SIX
HUNDRED TEdRS 400.


Chsucer's Coiler--Thc Reason OF the Coliar
-French OririnsIit AVID Enriish Imitn-
tien-Fitty vers Good Current styles.
The sun., 1888-09-23
THE NEW YORK. HERALD
ON OVERWORK,
A GREAT EDITOR EXPRESSES HIS OPINION or
A SUBJECT WHICH INTERESTS ALL
AMERICANS

UN UVhRW w URk,
GREAT EDITOR EXPRESSES HIS OPINION or
sUBJEor WHICH INTERESTS ALL
AMERICANS
The Herald OF Aug is contained an editorial iron
which make the following extracts:
I'VE Americans are ahard.workinE. ambitious peop,e
Life Is pretty steady grind. without holiday. me
passion for money overrules all other considerations
and terrible risks in achieving purposes
The oRtrot to wealth does not SUIT taste We must
eailop up hill and down In breathless almost joyiess
hurry. But the excitement tells nevertheless This
drops out and that man. and tho other man, with
heart disease some such dlaoolical attack; but
keep up the hustling though lungs and brains and
nerves could be replaced for price like the pieces OF
Waterbury watch"
The Herald would have really benefited its readers t
II had inserted the following letter and advised to
follow the suggestions given therein by OF such
capable judgment;
From Hon MORGAN J. o'BRtEN, Judge OF the So
preme Court State OF New York.
NEW YORK, Sept O 1887
MRS. HARRIET II. AVER
Dear Madam: Having used your doll ehtfu tonic
"yita Nuova" desire add my testimonial to that Of
many others who have spoken of In terms OF praise
found IT. during period OF mental strain to bs
Of the greatest service stmulan ani nervous anti
dote and therefore recommend 1t to persons who
object all kinds OF alcoholic stmants and who feel
the need OF something to relieve them at such timos
Yours respectfully, MORGAN J. oBRlES.
NEW YORK, July 10 1884
MRS HARRIET HUBBARD AVER.
Dear Madam: We have. in accordance with your
WISH inspected your works studied the nrocesses and
examined tile materials used In tho prepare ion Of Vita
Nuova. Our opinions in tho matter follows:
The Vita Nuova is in sense n wine of coca II 10
compounded OF excellent brand Of wnc in which
dissolved the that impnrt to It Its specific
rropere. as remedial agent The substances used IN
Its preparation are all OF tne grade AMI are obtained
from wellknown and Trustworthy manufacturers
Vita Nuova nnQUesonably comic suitable to stimu.
late and strengthen the nervous and 10 valuable
in cases of dyspepsia an'i ndigestom The Vita Nuova
70 made on large scale. and as the ingredients arc
hence bought IN large amounts and the ions are
to great extent mechanical 1t has been pnasihlc 20 x
the selling price OF this figure considerably
lower than that Mt which II would druggist TO put
It up from prescription. Yours vu.y rcsacc Iuly,
HENRY A. MOTT. Ph. Ia Li. j..
Member of the London. Paris Berlin, aud American
Chemical Societies
TIIOS. B. ST1i.LMAN. " Sc. Ph. D..
Professor Of Chemistry of the stevens institute OF
PETER T. AUSTEN. Phi ~. f. C. s..
Professor Of General and Applied theuistry, Rutgers
College and New Jersey State Scientific school.
The sun., 1888-09-23

oIc 1ipb% Itw .tlIx
oonfsn are also gni "ooIien nGVSy ana siln
SelnribaG sbnH @ siSs tb 70 tnosS
hyab tg au9se. nm inc piclutes
Wall 'Tf % arsI rns VI nn aas svea US sis n
2f,ccuna;tiops ms which women who ca can afford 10
n 6cobor .ni nIge ca 'S for ts ~ is this
nictnra ahnSo ev m axe sose IN Ihe
b o,t n9y nay 10 th; a. 3 MY y ot
1ne preIey n9veIIy wootlen stun5 tnat hooa tne
c0HaLers ~ me or 0i Ghshmete i or Gnt
sr, ta hiIasi9u VIII s9L. suran OF
, uonkahno XII tn9 snirt oioueo, tno inihgs, unu
maV be- os vnye Sordsrps na Sn9 bsWss
Mba ne, camodd @ sh,r,, T., rr, s,,,,,,
niatm,a naS tSi na t @ snGwn tI ~ ahh suns
rema forms nsym,tJ anrinc ne tba WIN Ell en
deaa tLeme forms LOT perm.a ouaihG tne enriy iaii
iytsr pobes @ ~ nil aDd vsvat are ahI n, e
ni % ~ Elm nd Gma @ '1inet ;f ia are uohnsui
hese viii mateb the @ h w eoo oe Sha
tn 70 Ind anH }eWei oiests WIN ,he aoai
ons u pS vnr M nDS aoiG e au ad KILL
poh NM nj siioT ~ t hna Il @ G0ia leweed
aT snW wruns e 0s' 0s ass arrIe and
visiting wear are made short in the bac fh hut
ackat and sistcne attact is herad % t6
The sun., 1888-09-23

The tailor gowns sent out from the best
houses OF London and Paris. and even in the
leading establishments in Fifth avenue and
Broadway. are much more elaborate confec-
tions than those described above. The out
lines of form are similar. but the decorative
effects are wondrous. The hens Of the plain
skirts are bordered with broad bands Of metal
embroideries on cloth. or applique embroid-
cries formed entirely Of tinted metallic threads
and colored silk twist. The sleeves and bodlces:
the sashes and panels-if there nre any-are all
enriched With narrow bands Of embroidery.
nroifderies which, BY the W are al
jewel effects are seen. produced by the intro
duction Of crystal and tinted glass, beads Of
fine quality. and not large enough to look
coarse or pronounced. The finest tailor gowns
cendre. pale eobein blue, and sea foam green
cloths have these, borders, OF real hand
twist embroidery, and the deeper the, bands
and designs the handsomer and costlier the
gown. Jewel effects are also thrown in ad
libitum on these richost Injections. Then the
hat, generally toque, matches the gown, and
the toilet is considered and is sufficiently
dressy to be worn to an afternoon receptions a
meet" In Orange or any OF our fashionable
breakfast or luncheon party
The sun., 1888-09-23

troduced as the correct thing for the man OF
the world. Chaucer is shown wearing such
a garment: hoods werc adopted. and he neck
was bundled up rs much as 1t had been eX-
posed. The renson for this change OF costume
The sun., 1888-09-23

There are few articles Of mae attire whose
history can be more clearly traced, and whose
form has changed more often and moro radi-
callY than the collar. Unlike the trousers or
The sun., 1888-09-23

@ issf la e ai o SI1Sss z. e e. CO.
Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1888-10-04
TRADING the Children.


II try so hard to make my children
hsppyr' said a mother with sigh one
day, IN despair at her efforts. stop try
ing" explained practical friend at her
elbow" and do as neighbor OF mine
does" "And how is that?" she asked
dolefully. "Why, she simply let's her
children grow and develop naturally, only
directing their growth properly. She
has always thrown them, as far as prac-
ticable, upon their resources, taught
them to wait upon themselves-no mat
ter how many servants she had-and to
construct their own playthings. When
she returns home from az absence they
await but enc thing-their mothers kiss.
Whatever has been bought for them is
bestowed when the needed time comes.
Nothing exciting is allowed TO them at
night, and they GO to bed and to sleep in
q Wholezome mental state that insures
restful slumber. They ara taught to
love nature, aud to feel that there is
nothing srrayed SO finely as the lily Of
the field, the bees and the butterflies;
that there is nothing go mean IS lie,
nor anything SO miserable as disobedi-
ence; and that good health. good teeth,
and good temper come from plain food,
plenty of sleep and being good" In
order to thrive, children require certain
amount of Getting alone" Supreme
faith IN the mother, few toys, no fnery,
plain food, no drugs, and early to bed
are the best things to make them happy.
Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1888-10-04
THEIR ONLY MEDICINE CHEST.

DEERnoDaE, MONTANA, Dec. 16, 1885.
[ have been using BRANDRTH's PILLS
tor the last thirteen years, and though 1
have had nine children, have never had
doctor in the house, except three times,
when we had an epidemic of scarlet fever,
which we soon banished by q vigorous
use Of BRANDRETH's PILLS. I have used
them for myself, two or three night for
month, for liver complaint, dyspe psia,
aud constipation. Ia diarrhpa, cramps,
wind collie, Indigestion, enc or two BRAND
RE-H's PILLS fixed the children at once.
A box OF Pills is all the medicine chest
We require in the house. We use them
for rheumatism, colds, catarrh, bilious
ness, and impure blood. They never
have tailed to cure all the above COM
p al'.:e III Il very few days.
WILLIAM w. B. MILLER.
Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1888-10-04
Boys and Girls in Holland.
Chicago Mail.

letter from 8 lady travelling in Hol-
land tells how they distinguished the
boys from the girls in that country.
They are all dressed alike in dark, full
skirts and gay bodicies. All had long
hair, AID long thick bangs trained "a
stand out under thar tight caps like lit
tie visors TO shade their eyes. We begun
to wonder why they were ali girls, when
suddenly the guide seized one saying
"Do you think this is 4 boy or a girl!''
When we said "Grl' he whisked the
child around and pointed To : little red
and white crown piece II tho back of its
cap. NO" he said, girls caps are plain
Until the children are eight years old
you can't tell a boy from a girl except
from the backs of their heads" By ask.
ing the children their names we found
tae guide was right, and we all wondered
what young America would say if he were
obliged to dress like his sister till he was
o IL
Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1888-10-04
THE APEX OF THE GLOBE.
4 Climb of the Himalavan Mountains OfIndia
Dat

Climb OF the Hima1aVan Mountains OF india.
Boston Herald.
People who visit Calcutta seldom fail TO
make journey Of about 400 miles north
ward, by the eastern Bengal Railway, to
Darjeeling. The last part OF this trip is
performed On a narrOwgauge road which
climbs the tall foothills Of the Hlmalay an
range in most curious, zigzag fashion,
the road constantly doubling upon itself
at interesting elevations. As the traveller
progresses focks Of Thibet goats appear,
and harder race of men and women are
seen than those left behind on the plains
OF Hlndoostan. The laborers seen on the
route are composed OF men, women and
girls, the latter using pick and shovel as
readily as do the men. The PEOPLE are
from Thibet, Nepsui and Cashmere,
which countries border on Northern India.
These mingled races form picturesque
groups, the men armed with long, sword
like knives, and the women are clad in
bright cOlors and short skirts.
When Darjeeling is reached we are over
1000 feet above the plaips, and here we
find ourselves in full view OF the Hottest
range of mountains in he world, litera-
ly the apex of the globe. What the
Bernese Overland range is to- the Euro
=,
the sky-reaching Himalayas; the former,
however, are mere pigmles compared with
these giants at DarjeeIing. The lowest
peak is over 10000 feet in height, the
tallest over $4,000, while Mount Everest,
the Ioft;esS elevation in the world, is 49,,
GOO feet above the level OF the sea.
The Himalay in Sanskrit
The Halls OF SnoW"-form the northern
boundary OF India, shutting it off from
the rest of Asia. Thibet, which lies just
over the range, is nearly inaccessible
from DarjeeliDg, and yet bold parties of
native traders, wrapped in sheepskins, do
sometimes force their way over the passes
at an elevation of $4,000 feet. Il is a
haz ardoua thing to do, and the bodies of
WOrn-Out animals mark the frozen way.
Upon the range rest 1000 feet of per-
petual snow There no animal life exists.
Only the snow and ice rest there in end
less sleep.
We ascend a neighboring hill and come
upon rude Buddhist altar in the open
air, formed of stunted trees and rocks.
The sacrifice of some animal must have
but lately taken place here, as there are
stains of blood all about the place. The
neighboring branches of trees and low
bushes are decked with scraps of blue,
yellow and red cloth, which the guide in
forms Us are tangible prayers placed
here OF Buddhist worshippers. AS We
look about US we enjoy fG.l view of the
Himalayas. with their silvery, frosted dia-
dems, faxed with gold by the warm rays
of the sun, while close at hand are hun
dreds Of thrifty tea plantations, covering
the sIoping hill-sides with low, uniform
verdure. There are many wild animals
in these hills, including the much dreaded
Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1888-10-04
Log CABIN Success.
What aiIs tbs Young mem

| What ails ths yourg men?
| Robert CARROTS father left him a
| fortune of twenty millions He was from
| childhood reared in luxury; he received a
| splendid education with an especial train
ing into thorough knowledge of railrosd
management and was expected to succeed
his father as a railroad king.
Within three years after tke RESPONSE
blllties which his farther's death drew
upon him were assumed, he is reported a
broken down nam, with mind and health
permanently shattered.
George Law is another young man left
| with millions of money, who is reported
among the wrecks" His father, bred 8
| stone mason, was Of gigantic size and
strength, with commensurate brain
power, SO he became great contractor,
then q railroad king and left half dozsn
millions for his son TO dlssipate. The
young man IS success as a dissipator.
The founders of both OF thess great
estates were born in the most humb,e
walks of life, grew strong, mentally and
physically, by simple living and honest
| labor and developed into financial giants.
Their sons were reared in the lap of lux
ury and developed into intellectual
pigmies.
The great men of our country have not,
as rule, come from the elegant mansions
of the cities, but from the Log Cabins of
the rural districts. Simple ways OF living,
freedom from dissipation and enervating
pleasures, simple remedies for disease,
effective and which leave no poison in the
system, develop brawny, brainy men, whn
compel the world to recognize their
strength and power.
The wholesome, old-fashioned Log
Cabin remedies are the safest and surest
for family use. Our grandmothers knew
how to prepare the teas and syrups of
roots, herbs and balsams which drive
disease out CT the system by natural
methods and leave no after ill effects.
The most potent of these old time rem
edies were, after long and searching
investigation, secured by b. 81. Warner
of safe cure fame, ant are now put out
for the "healing of the nations" in the
Warmers Log Cabin remedies.
Regulate the regulator with Warmers
Log Cabin sarsaparilla and with pure
blood giving health, strength, mental
and bodily vigor, you may hope to cope
successfully With the most gigantic flnan-
cial problems of the age, without wreck
ing health and manhood.