Barbour County index. [volume] (Medicine Lodge, Kan.) 1880-current, 1888-11-07

A Subject which, Though Old, VIII Me-
Loee ITS Interosf

The HUMAN APPETITE.
A Subject which, Though Old, WIN Nevss
Lose Its Interest.
On the whole, popular cookery has
strong likeness to popular poetry; 1t IL full
Of good ideas imperfectly worked out, says
the London Saturday Revicic. Who can say.
for example, what mostarda might become
ii its fruits were treated with . little more
care and personal consideration before they
were placed in the mustardl As it Is, there
Is hint Of new flavor about it which
human ingenuity has not hitherto broughs
fully out Ripe grapes picked in vinegar,
though their merits are well known in
Southern Russia, have never received due
recognition in England. But these are del
icacies rather than food. The fishermen all
along the coast from Gae.a to Naples have
various ways OF cooking Ash which are un-
known in the great hotels. Many Of them
are interesting, and might be attractive but
for the predominating flavor of garlic.
Fresh sardines, crisply fried in oil, are quite
admirable eating, but the fishermen have
discovered more excellent way OF dealing
with them. They place them in shallow
tin, embed them in bread crumbs, add
few savory herbs, pour a little good olive
oil, squeeze lemon or two over them, and
then bake them over sharp fire. The re-
some towns and villages OF Northern Italy
small birds are treated with the same an
preciative kindness. They are roasted on q
spit before sharp fire, and then laid in q
pickle for day or two and served cold OF
course it is wicked to kill little birds, but
the man who sends such dish away when
he is hungry, and it is the only animal food
that can be procured, must be gifted either
with q conscience that is extremely sensi.
tive or palate that is rather dull.
No one will suggest that there is any
thing common or unclean in such food as
has been mentioned; it does not even border
on impropriety, but may be freely enjoyed
by men OF all sects and nations. As soon
as one turns to unusual materials, national
prejudice asserts itself. and the ground be-
comes unsafe. In Central and considerable
part of Northern Germany the man who
eats rabbit becomes a social outcast; in
England many respectable citizens indulge
shamelessly in this mild form of dissipa-
ton. The Neapoitan poor are not as rule
dainty, but, while delighting in sea-urchin,
they look down with scorn upon the Gala
brese, because they eat sea-slugs, which, If
properly cooked, are not very nasty Nay,
even in our own country there was a time
when persons scoffed at frogs; now most
Englishmen who have been to Paris know
that, II properly treated, they add new
zest to dinner il not to life. The old preiu-
dice against snails still continues, vet there
are at least two edible kinds which are
worthy of all respect. They must be kent
and fed cleanly, preferably on vine leaves for
some time, before being used, but when this
has been done both sorts add a peculiar and
agreeable flavor TO several clear SOUPS, and
one of them when boiled, chopped small and
allowed to cool, greatly improves any green
In mot lntth A.~4
that they have any resemblance to the
common, we dare not say familiar, peri
winkle, for nobody with any sense of self.
respect could ever become familiar with so
coarse creature. The edible land-snails
are-at least, In gastronomic respects-the
aristocracy of their race.
Hedgehog is good, at least for a change.
and it used to be well cooked in a small tay-
ern in the Ghetto of Rome, to which artists
frequently resorted when their spirits were
nigh and their funds low. According to an
aged South Italian sportsman, they should
be killed in the woods and Immediately
skinned, then allowed to hang for a few
hours, and, after being trussed with their
own quills, be roasted before sharp fire.
Ihe stuffng should be made Of their own
TAT, finely chopped with bread crumbs and
such seasoning as suits the cooks taste. or
course no one with sense of decency would
think OF eating hedgehog which had been
employed for months IN hunting black
beetles in cellar and was only slaughtered
because he showed signs of failing strength.
Snakes are difficult question. The force of
civilization is against them in every way,
though in few North Italian towns they are
considered deIicacies, and those who have
eaten OF them declare that they are superior
to cells, as they are less rich and have a
more delicate flavor. One would not like to
give an opinion without some practical ex-
perience, and no one can be expected to
travel to the neighborhood of Genoa in tho
early autumn for the mere purpose of eat
ing stewed serpent.
Many other animals occupy a similarly
dubious position. Jays and crows are said
70 make excellent soup, even when they are
well stricken in years, though their flesh is
otherwise worthless. But why do we ac-
cept the calf and reject the foali WHY do
we regard bears paws as dainty and
roasted cat as a crime9 Tastes, of course.
differ; but this is not matter of taste. but
of imagination. There are persons who
can not eat duck and green peas, and there
are others who are unfortunate enough tn
find no charms in oysters or caviare-they
are to be pitied, not blamed