Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-11-12


Special Correspondence of TIE EVENING STAR
STRASoHLAR, IRELAND, October 80, 1883.
Ihe ancient seaport of Ireland's romantic
northwest, quaint, musty Donegal, is a very
little place with a very large amount of CONN.,
Try about 1t. But great interest is found from
possible historic and traditional researches.
from scenic destinations within range of its
surrounding hills; from studies Of its people
ana the quaint mountain peasantry who resort
10 II; from Its near fine samon-leaps end pic
turesque seaside resorts; from its nearness to
the former home of that love-lorn maiden from
whose depiorable misfortunes sprang the pa
thetlc story OF colleen Bawn." and from the
weird, grand and often sublime groupings of
mountains, loughs, glens, tarns and rivers
winch In every direction bewitch and enthrall
as In no other part of Irelandsand, believe. in
no other part of the whole world. America an
h'iaily sends $4,000 tourists to Europe. Not one
In a thousand ever set vision upon these tran
scendent beauties. That one fact is a greater
marvel than the most marvellous scene upon
which the eye may rest in all the glorious Don
egal Highlands.
RED HUGH.
In the sunshine old Donegal town is CHEEKY
and snug enough; but when the fog-winds come
up from the sea like dingy wings slapping it
grewsomely in its face, the half-town, half
hamlet, seems to shudderingly shrink closer to
the shores of the noisy Esk, as if seeking
shelter at the bases of the dark mountains be-
hind Fort of the White Strangers is the sig
nlhcation of the name, Donegal; although one
would have a hard time indeed to find out what
that meant, Aside from the picturesqueness
OF Its charming old streets. an interest that is
almost melancholy attaches to its half-ruined
castle, at the riverside. near the ancient arched
bridge. Many page of history would have to
be scanned to learn its haps and mishaps.
and of its different lords, governors and
rulers: for here during at least five CEN
turtles was the center of bloodiest struggles
between Northern Irish kings and their foes,
and especially the conflicts between the O'Neills
and ODonnells. The life and adventures of
Hugh Roe O'Donnell. or Red Hugh. properly
depicted, would alone surpass the most thrilling
tale of Scottish bOrder-land warfare. During
the fourteenth century the daring and heroic
spirit of Hugh, when still but a boy attracted
the notice of Sir John Perrott, lord justice of
Ireland In order to get him within his
power PeTrott sent ship into Tough Swilly
laden with samples of the finest Spanish
wines. and manned by his own seamen dis
gulsed as Spanish wine-merchants. Hugh, with
Others. was iured aboard and. while being feast
ed, the matches were battened and the young
chief carried to Dublin, where he was immured
IN the tower. Though but sixteen, he here made
OHt VI tiAc llOSL ncfOiC pTlSOn escapes KNOWN 10
those savage times. FLYING to a supposed friend,
Sir Phellm O1Oole, who had been his fellow
prisoner. he was betrayed. again imprisoned,
and subjected to every barbarity save down.
right murder. In year he again escaped; lied
to the mountains, where he for months subsist-
ed like wild beast; but finally regaihed his
Own country and kingdom about Donegal. Sue
ceedlng his father ruler and being Joined by
the valiant O'Neil. he set about avenging his
wrongs and Indignities against the English: but
re- Will ieb L.
the attack against the entrenched foe at Kinsale
each cOntending for the bloody honor, the battle
after great slaughter was lost. Hugh's fol-
lowers routed and dispersed, and the brave
young chieftain, himself wounded. compelled
10 fly to Spain. Here, after great labors. he
succeeded in inducing King Philip to raise an
army OF succor for the recovery of his domain
but, worn out with delay and effort he died
from grief and broken heart at yalladolid
His character and noble qualities as they were
then measured. and his wondrous bravery. rem
dered his name a luminous and pathetic one in
the Irish annals. This old stronghold of the
lords of Tirconnel must have been a splendid
and powerful fortress. Chimney-piece of
magnificent sculpture in the style of James L.
are still seen; and some of the Gothic windows
overlooking the bay are fairly preserved speci-
mems Of the impressive architecture of half a
thousand years ago.
RUINS OF KILBARRoN CASTLE.
To Irishmen, indeed to all men who are
earnest students of the history of any race
people or land, the drear old ruin on the coast
below Donegal, near Ballyshannon, must pos
sess an absorbing fascination. Here stood the
lone. semi-mOnastic castle of Kilbarron. an
ancient fOrtalice, and seat Of the O'Clery
chiefs. 1t was in this stronghold that the
brothers OClery. Hugh Ward and John Col
gan. known TO all scholars as the Four Masters.
III the midst of furious wars of clans chiefs
kings and whatnOt, pursued their great his
torlcal researches and labors, resulting in
those monuments of industry called the Don
egal Annals" or the Annals of the -Four Mas
ter" which, despite all cavil or prejudice.
stand out as grand landmarks against the age
of darkness and blood in which they
were produced. The scholar and cru
dIte. surrounded he is with the il
InItahle possibilities and facilities of to-day
should stand here and contemplate the few re-
lualuIng crumbling peaks of masonry stand
ing Ia this awful solitude of cliff. wind and sea-
IN order to Just for once realize the sacrifice
and devotion of the patient souls of all lands in
the dim days behind US. and the infinite adyan-
tages OF the brighter time that is ours The
gray old ruins stand at the very edge of a pre-
cIpItnus and almost insulaF cliff Furze and
heather cover most of the hattened escarpe-
Inents of the once mighty walls. To the east,
the south. and southwest. save where the misty
cpast-!Ine of Sligo here and there pushes
through the distance, naught can be seen but
Wild sweeps OF upland moor. white sand-reaches
suontlN uuut-. vast and Qreary stretches
of wIid-swept. shuddering heather To the
north across Donegal Bay the great headlands
loom hard and savagely. as II some mighty i'm
pulse Of nature were about to topple them into
the waves. While 70 the west where the sun
l. ever setting IN the ceaseless turbulence of
The sea. bat rising upon happier lands beyond
there are just the meanings and thunderings
OF the mighty ocean.
But DOWN THE COAST,
behind the sand-hills. is rare old Ballvshannon
upon the stately Erne. where. as its waters lean
with roar into the bay, was once one of the
most splt salmon fisheries in Ireland
Three miles above. where the waters of the
hObl, lakes Of Erne. after lettering in the
sandy valley. make a mad rush as if to engulf
lallyshannOn. forming the beautiful falls of
DclleeK. On beyond the old town along the
cITriius bay. Is BundOran. where families Of the
I-Ish gentry from the middle counties and the
Wet come in summer to the glorious Bundo-
ran dOnAcys and the sea. While back along
the beach from Ballyshannon. down behind the
Old kl!DarrOn ruins. is the tiny hamlet of
NardtOWn, the old seat of the Ffolliott family.
where the incidents OF that tenderest and most
pathetic of Irish lOve-dramas. Colleen Bawn."
had their mOuTnful origin. Here once really
lived squire FfOliiott. whose daughter Helene,
las Of radiant beauty. was enamored of a
bright Irish !ad-seryant. Willie Reilly. In vain
the stern Old squire sought 20 stem the torrent
Of their love. FINALLY the couple stole away
together the girl taking with her her jewels.
COLLEEN BAwS."
They we're pursued and oyertaken The lew