The Manchester journal. [volume] (Manchester, Vt.) 1861-current, 1888-06-07
Perfumes OF Com

Perfumes Of Commues.
The perfumes OF commerce are in one
Of four generic forms, viz, pomAdes and
peifumed oils, which are made by the
process Of absorption, or essences and es
sential oils, which are made by distills
ton. Every large establishment is pro
vidsd with apparatus for oil these process
-. The first two ses--pomades and
oils ARE used simply as vehicles TO Ab
sorb the perfume and retain il for trans
portation, Pomades are made from roses,
jonquins, tuberoses, jasmines and some
other alien species OF flowers. Before the
season begins. each IN anufacturer provides
himself with large number OF wooden
frames set with plate glass. These frames
are about two feet square and their wood.
en- sides ere. perhaps. five inches wide, so
that when piled up edge to edge they form
9 series Of close chambers five inches deep
aud two feet square. Over the plate glass
on both sides, is spread . thin coating OF
refined grease "A mixture OF purified lard
and tallow-w which. when the boxes are
piled one above another, forms the floor
and ceiling OF each separate chamber thus
created. All is now ready for the flowers.
As these arrive each morning they are
assorted and the petals carefully picked
from the stamens and pistils, which are
thrown away as worthless. Over the bot
tom Of each frame or chamber above de.
scribed is spread layer OF petals and the
frames piled one upon another, so that in
each chamber the layer of flowers has
above and beneath 1t tue layer Of white
grease, which absorbs the perfume until
the petals become limp and withered.
They srs then removed and replaced with
fresh ones and this is repeated each morn
ing until the pomade attains the required
degree Of perfumed strength. 1t is then
carefully removed, packed in earthern
jars, sealed, labeled and made ready for
export.
Olive oils are used in similar way, ex.
cept that instead Of being poured on the
bottom Of the frame. they are used to sat
urate pieces Of coarse cotton cloth, which
are then spread upon wire netting in tight
frames three or four feet square. Thus
prepared these frames are filed with
petals as in the preceding process. the re.
fned and odorless olive oil obsorbs the
aroma OF the flowers and becomes like the
pomade. vehicle for the retention and
transportation Of the perfume. This latter
process is especially applied to roses and
acaciss. To extract the odor from po
msdes or perfumed oils they have simply
to be saturated with alcohol, which, with
its stronger affinity, absorbs the perfume,
leaving the grease or oil TO be used for
ordinary purposes.
1t naturally requires large quantity OF
flowers to make comparatively small
amount Of perfume. The process Of fill
ing the pomsde frames with fresh flowers
goes on daily for several months before it
attsins the desired strength. 1t is by this
method only that the delicate aroma OF
the choicest flowers can be extracted and
preserved without change for transport to
distant markets.
The process OF distillation which yields
essences and essential oils is altogether
different. Iu this the flowers are thrown
into large copper retorts with water, In
which they are boiled, the perfume going
over in vapor into condensing coils, as the
ordinary distillstion Of high wines from
yrain. But the heat often changes the
character OF perfume, and II is only the
more robust and vigorous odors that will
'tsnd the test OF fire without deteriora
ion. The 'aower waters" OF the per
umers shops are made by placing alcohol
o the condensing tank, which condenses
md sbsorbs the olorous vspor. until il
becomes fragrant and sweet. Most Of the
popular handkerchief extracts are made
~ skillfully combining the odors OF sew
raj different flowers, which form Q har-
money u perfumes, aDd often, by becom-
ng the pet fragrance Of society for sea
on, make the fortune Of the lucky inven
or. Thus Jockey Club" and "Patcboul.
y" 10 their day had az extraordinary run,
nd filed the pockets Of their inventors.