, 1888-03-04

little folk of the band with small coin, and
there are no fathers and mothers of any
race who will not warm to one who
can quickly gain the affections of their
children. So. too, by some little dexterity
among the horses, donkeys and goats
which | had well learned in my wander
Ings among the Gipsies of other lands, l
appealed directly to the respect of the
quick witted young men of the band.
And il ever you go a Gipsying this is not
a bad thing to know. These supple fell
lows have keen eyes and as quick knuck-
les. They have their sweethearts, too,
their rackties as they call them in Ro-
many, and if one values a sound pate,
there is good fortune in making love to
the youths, rather than the witching
maidens of a Gypsy band. Then again
| Spanish Gipsies are oyerquick with bright
little knives. So paid due court to the
young dons and donkeys, and was re-
warded with a thousand ''mucho graciasl'
some pretty keepsakcs, and, after break
fast, which consisted of but black coffee
and blacker pan negro, or black
bread, and oranges, which l supplemented
by stealthy SOL to my own pouch
of sausage and cheese, to a dash on u
nimblc footed iacas oyer the low lying
AAOAiAhAh91 oLlOhb IAC DllhOCt ONCI Ohdll
Jaruco way; for a donkey had strayed
away and must be recovered. We passed
the whole day in the saddle, undoubtedly
riding eighty miles without dismounting.
On u return my good fortune received a
happy addition by my own accidental dis
covery of the missing animal, which had
wandered into a deserted Cuajiro's hut,
and though half starved had rcsolutely
determined on digesting the entire palm
matched structure before retreating from
his position.
The incident was a fortunate one, but
the day in the mountains was a grand
one. Though not four leagues from Ha-
van evidence of country life was as
marked and characteristic as though in
the very center of the island. In every
direction low hill seemed to radiate
from points of vision to the horizon as
wavelcts from the falling of a pebble in
still water, and yet the face of the coun-
try has that peculiar appearance of
spreading before the beholder immea3ura-
bic reaches of prairie and savanna.
Checkering all this interesting topography
are seen hedges marking the confines of
the closing divided holdings of the ten
antry, and among these hedges are here
and there found the sentinel palm and the
quite as lonely cocoa. Always in the odd
est and most uncouth location will appear
the cabins of the peasantry, AS a rule
they are mere huts, and a indescribable
feeling of sadness comes, when the boun-
te~ousness OF the soil, the gladness of the
birds, the splendor of the heavens, and
the glory of the sky. are contrasted
with the abiect insuficiency of the
Cuban guailro's, or c%ountryman's sur
%roundings.
Occasionally, a magnificent quinta or
villa will be seen; but the sharp contrast
between this and the cabin only empha-
sizes the painful realization. But over
all hangs the delicious odor laden air of
this marvellous cline. 1t has the palpa-
BILE quality of a presence. You breathe
it as though taking food. You are silent
in it, yet.ever anxious to hold it as a part
of yourself. 1t is ever sensuous, not
sensual. Every passing breeze brings to
you distinct aromas, and yet beyond these
there is an all prevailing, never ending
odor which has become a quality of the
very atmosphere itself. Could you group
in your imagination at n time all the
rarest and most brilliant flowers you ever
beheld in park, garden or conservatory,
you would not even then be able to real
ize what the unkept fields of Cuba for
ever present to the travellers eye. In
park, enclosure, hedge and field, are found
the stately star of Bethlehem, with its
splendid scarlet blossoms; the mignonette,
here a tall tree covered with odorous
blooms; the tender vinca, with its white
and Trainings of red; the golden southern
jasmine, the scarlet hibiscus, the galen de
noche or garland of the night, with its
Jr0o.inn bromn hloosop,a b,,,ohoJ l,lo
our old fashioned lilacs, and only fragrant
by moonlight and starlight; the honey
suckle-li like plnons, the flaming hamboyant,
the star cacus, the Carolina tree; the
lovely campanile, with its dropping bell
like flower; the heliotrope, ~honeysuckle
and wild pea; the Cherokee, Marechal
Mel and Cape roses and jacqueminot; the
ionquil and lilies of the valley; and my
riads upon myriads more of unfamiliar
yet equally dazzling and delightful flora
all as common here as the daisies and
daDdclions starring our own green
meadows in summer
My third day among the Gitanos was
one of complete good fellowship and in
terchange of Gypsy gossip. AS well
versed as are these people in the concerns
of their kind in all lands, the Spanish
Gypsy, something as with the Spanish
Christian, knows the least of all human
beings Of universal human activities.
This gave opportunity for conveying
much knowledge to them of their breth-
rem in Great Britain and America; and
the facts regarding Gypsy progress in
Americ proved a marvel to them indeed.
Like some other people they would hard
ly believe we have nearly two million
Gipsies among us. And as | traced their
gradual growth and increase from their
first appearance in America prior to the
revolution, pointed out how ,hoy had
secretly come among the emigrants in
every foreign vessel since, how they had
at first been ashamed of their name and
origin, but at last were learning to be
proud of it; how thousands had become
owners of great farms and valuable city
properties, how hundreds were already
rcputably advanced in professional hold
ings, and were occupying positions Of
trust as lawyers, physicians, clergymcn
and even as Legislators, and how in count
less instances the road Gipsies of America
were veritable lords OF the summer time,
riding about the country in wagons more
costly than an ancient kings chariot;
their wonder and DELIGHT wore n n~nsitivo