New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-02-12
THE SPRING FASHIONS.
REDFERN'S NEW COATS.

SHAPES AND STYLES OF MAKIvG-NEw MATERIALS
Tho nogsce coat Of the English talors, prepared for
demi saison wear, Will be made OF peatdyed homespun
cloth. as heavy and rough In appearance as Irish
hrezes. These cloths are woven and dyed In tho
cottages Of peasant in tho Shetland and other
Islands north Of Scotland. This goods is nearly
impervious to water and has been popular for some
timo with gentlemen In England for shooting suits.
These homespun cloths will be made by Redeem into
short coats close fitting at the back and loose In
front, buttoned diagonally and high ono shoulder
with peculiar mixed horn buttons designed TO match
the cloth Tho regulation high collar and three
button cuffs finish the coat, the edges OF which are
all double stitched without binding OF braid Tailors
will mako speciality this spring Of Innings Of the
finest Lyons tafetas In shaded glace and striped
effects These silks more elegant and far moro
durable than the satin Innings which have been hereto
cloths fine smooth faced cloth-designed for spring
wear. has vest Of fawncolored cloth. The coat Is
OF Russian god-cord. Twisted epaulets OF gold IN
ish the coat and small gold buttons fasten the vest
Another new shape In spring coats has a rolling
collar turned back far the bustllne to display
a vest in contrasting color. Tho front shapes back
below tho waist line, ending on tho hips in long
tabs. while tho back OF tho coat Is quito short over
the tournure where II is slashed in postons. The
cuff at the sleeve OF this coat IS double, second
cuff being turned back from the bell cuff, which falls
over the hand
A charming short coat for young girl IS made OF
fawncoored faced cloth 1t Is quite short and tight
fitting and "a finished with cuffs, high standing
collar and turned down collar or Georget' Of dark
brown velvet Tho buttons are Of twisted gold
Another pretty shape which will be special style Of
london tailors this spring is OF dark-bue faced
cloth. The coat IS a medium short, tight fitting
garment. The high collar, which Is edged with
sharp pointed Vandyke collar extending over the
shoulders IS OF dark velvet and Is outlined with gold
braid. A special feature OF the coat, besides the
collar is tho braIdng which extends In circle nom
underneath each arm.
Colored cloths are displayed IN a variety Of shades
at the shops In smooth Kersey cloth for short coats,
which will take the place OF tho tan covertcoats OF
last There coppery shades Of brown,
which this and quito different
from the old copper browns but dealers believe that
neutral grays, golden Havana browns, dark. dull
terracotts reds and French grays In blue tones will
be the most popular coors. Black will always be
standard choice for there many persons who
prefer black and many who not able TO possess
great variety OF wraps The coats In the shops arc
generally tight fitting In the back, with vest mont
over which OF the coat may fly loose or be
merely displayed by turned back The rest of
the coat usually OF contrasting color braided with
metal or black worsted braid. charming coat OF
dark blue cloth edged with gold braid, sewn In
the the edges, to form mere piping around
the coat the back OF the coat was designed to TT
closely and smoothly to the figure, and was slashed
in very short round postllion over the tournure
The loose fronts fell in long polntS at the sides
with gold braid, and piece of tan cloth braided
vas also set in the outer seam OF
buttons are quite feature OF OF tho new coats
Large metal buttons in ball-shape buttons of pearl
IN chatayant effect In small size and variety OF fancy
buttons shown the new coats.
The first wraps shown for elaborate dress short
capes OF rich corded silk, ornamented with passemen
teres crocheted by hand In heavy sadder's SILK
These capes tiny, extending merely over the waist
and hafcovering the sleeve Some Of the most elegant
OF those little wraps OF solid silk crochet work. or
namented with silk pendants tipped merely with Jet
Lace borders fringes not In these wraps
the ornament consists principally OF bands OF bradng
or passementerie cord crochet work, which does
not break the outline OF the figure 10 which these tiny
outside garments are closely and smoothly lifted
Lace dresses are being made up extensively for
and evening 1t IS the fancy Of the time
to plain surah In place OF satin under solid black
dresses the shmmerng effect Of satin is no longer
liked though where color s used under the lace satin
Is generally preferred black lace dress is not
pensive and is one OF the most useful dresses any
lady can possess II be In winter and sum-
mer, and Is becoming alike to young and old Elab-
passementeres in Venetian metals In two or
moro coors used by French dressmakers on gowns
OF lace and though seemingly discordan this metallic
work is wrought in fine threads on she'll back
ground that It is nearly light In texture as the
Chantllly lace with which 1t is associated The rows
OF ribbon used In stripes sheer materials last sea-
reproduced dresses OF Chantily lace, as all
black lace in C6any Pattern Is now called ss
slight Irregularities OF pattern In real Chanty so
best Chanty laces. made by machine, are OF SILK
and do not grow gray with wear. A good quality
Of lace, toryhve Inches wide, may be purchased nom
SO to rs yard
pretty black lace dress was recently made with
full long drapery, caught up in irregular graceful
fashion. rosette of black molre ribbon rested far
back on one hip holding the drapery high In place,
whence 1t fell in iabot effect One side Of the front
quite fully draped while the other was left al
most plain and ornamented with six loops and
ends Of white MORE ribbon tipped with Jet pendants
laid fat the left side Of the front and graduated In
length nom about twelve Inches 20 half yard. This
tiny apron Of ribbons IS exceedingly effective, and Is
likely TO be used colors afternoon costumes for
summer wear lace dress Of fine Chantilly pattern,
sent over nom Paris, made with a nlne-ineh
hounce surrounding the skirt over narrow FLOATING OF
silk till the breadths at the left side, which
finished plain the edge and ornamented from
the OF the wast-lne with four long, slender
points OF Venetian metal work embroidery in threads
Of steel and gold nine-inch lace fOunce surround
ed the drapcry Of the front, which Was caught up in
talbot style with full black satin bows of ribbon OF
the favorte No. 10 width The deml- poonaIse OF
this dress was striped with bands OF satin ribbon
over tho straight breadths that formed the back One
side OF the short bodice front CT tlnsel wrought
In bands the lace. while the other was OF SOLD
lace shrred shoulder and extending diagonally
across the embroidered portion OF the waist.
full sleeve was formed By gathering tho lace into the
inside seam over plain underseeve OF the surah silk
which used a foundation underneath all portions
OF the dress
Chaies and printed mohars IN delicate colors are
both used In place of the nuns vellings so popular
few seasons ago. These printed mohairs are in re-
atty nothing more than the brliantne alpaca Of
years ago They used In plain, delicate cOlor5
last season and this year introduced in the figured
eeots OF challes They shed the dust aud do soil
40 quickly as the dull cOored challies An ivory
moha.r figured with a irregular tangled pattern Of
grasse has Just been ma with the fully draped skirt
called by drcssmakers all drapery," tho undersklrt
being almost concealed In the intricate folds Of this
draping which parted at ono side TO show long,
slender panel nine inches wide at the bottom