Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1888-11-30

A Subject Which, Though Old, WIZ
Never Lose Its Interest.

II is full of good ideas imperfectlJ
Reutew. Who can say, for example.
what mostarda might become il its
fruits were treated with n little more
care and personal consideration before
they were placed in the mustardP As
1t is there is hint of new flavor
about it which human ingenuity has
not hitherto brought fully out. Ripe
grapes picked in vinegar. though
their merits are well known in South
crn Russia. have never received due
recognition in England. But these are
delicacies rather than food. The fish.
ermen all along the coast from Gaeta
TO Naples have various ways of cook
ing fish which are unknown in the
great hotels. Many of them are in
/ teresting. and might be- attract ve, but
for the predominating flavor of garlic.
Fresh sardines crisply fred in OIL. are
quite admirable eating. but the Usher
men have discovered more excellent
way OF deal with them. They place
them in shallow tin. embed them in
bread crumbs. add a few savory herbs,
pour little good olive oil. squeeze
lemon or two over them, and then
bake them over sharp fire. The re-
salt is unexpected but not d sagreeable.
In some towns and villages of North.
ern Italy small birds are treated with
the same appreciative kindness. They
are roasted on spit before sharp
fire, and then laid in pickle for day
or two and served cold. OF course it
it is wicked to Kill little birds, but the
man who sends such a dish away when
he is hungry. and it is the only animal
food that can be procured, must be
gifted either with conscience that is
extremely sensitive or a palate that is
rather dull.
No one will suggest that there is any
thing common or unclean in such food
as has been ment oned; it does not
even border on improperly. but may
be freely enjoyed by men of all sects
and nations. AS soon as one turns to
unusual materials, national prejudice
asserts itself. and the ground becomes
unsafe. In central and considerable
part Of northern Germany the man
who eats n rabbit becomes social out
cast; in England many respectable cit.
zens indulge shamelessly in this mild
form of dss patton. The Neapoltan
poor are not as "A rule dainty, but
while delighting in sea-urchin, they
look down with scorn upon the Gala
brese. because they eat sea.slugs.
VIII Oh, if properly cooked are not very
NASTY. Nay even in our own country
there was time when persons scoiled
at frogs; now most Englisamen who
have been TO Paris know that, if pro-
perry treated. they add a new zest 10
dinner if not to life. The old preju-
dice against snails still continues. yet
there are at least two edible kinds
which are worthy of all respect. They
must be kept and fed cleanly, prefer
ably on vine leaves for some time. be-
fore being used, but when this has
been done both sorts add peculiar
and agreeable flavor 10 several clear
soups. and one of them when boiled,
chopped small aud allowed TO cool,
greatly improves any green salad. Do
not let the hasty reader imagine that
they have any resemD lance to the COM
mon. we dare not say fam liar, peri
Wrinkle, for nobody with any sense of
self-respect could ever become familiar
with so coarse creature The bic
land snails are-at least in gastron-
omic respects-the arlstocracy of their
race.
Hedgehog is good, at least for a
change, and it used To be well cooked
in a small tavern in the Ghetto of
Rome, to which artists frequently re-
sorted when their spirits were high
and their funds low. Accord ny to an
aged South Italian sportsman, they
should be killed in the woods and i'm
medatey skinned. and then be allowed
10 hang for few hours. and, after
being trussed with their own quilts, be.
roasted before sharp fire. 1 he stuff
Ing should be made of their own fat.
finely chopped with bread crumbs and
such seasoning as suits the cook taste.
OF course no one with sense of de-
cency would think of eating hedge
hog which had been emplo, ed for
months in hunting black beetles in a
ce liar and was only slaughtered be-
cause he showed signs of failing
strength. Snakes are difficult ques-
ion. The force of civilization is against
Ihem in every way, though in few
Italian towns they are considered del
tcacies and those who have eaten OF
them declare that they are superior to
eels. as they are less Itch and have a
more del cate flavor. One would not
like 10 give IN opinion without some
practical experience, and no one can
be expected to travel IN the neighbor-
hood of Genoa in the early autumn for
The mere purpose OF eating stewed
serpent
Many other animals occupy cim
larry dubious position. Jays and
crows are said to make excellent soup.
,ven when they are well stricken az
years, though their flesh is otherwise
worthless. But why do we accept the
calf and reject the foalP Why do We re-
gard bears paws as dainty and roast
I'll cat as a crimep Tastes. of course.
iffer; but this is not matter OF taste.
out imagination. There are persons who
cannot eat duck and green peas. and
here are others who are unfortun ate
enough to find no charms in oysters
Or cavare-they are to be pitied, not
Il "A