Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-12-16
LADIES COLUMN.
Corner Dedicated to the Ladies.
Hints on Feminine Topics.
Fabrics and Fashions for Gowns-Sug-
gestiOns for Purchasers at the
Bargain Counters.
Some Fancy Work Designs for Fair and Deft
Fingers-ToOthsOme Delicacies for
Holiday Festivities.

with the modern woman IS dress is made
study of unusual care.
The so-called simple directoire redin-
gotes, for instance, and the stately Rus
sian polonaises have no fripperies and
falls of lace with which to cover Il false
move of the scissors, and the long
straight folds, which looks easy enough
TO drape as one looks at the stylish mod
els, are not so quickly adjusted and ar
ranged as one might imagine. The lit
ting, too, and the immaculate tailor fin
ISL which alone make the bodice of the
garment a success, depend altogether
upon the genius and finished art of the
creator of these Z" simple gowns.
The polonaise of other days lives under
the new title of the Empire redingote,
and it will be in high favor during this
and the coming season. To describe it
generally, il is Il half fitting long coat,
snug and graceful at the back and open
over plastrOn and inner skirt of like or
contrasting material. Sometimes there
is little fullness left i'll the cOrsage pOr
ton, which is shirred Mt the throat and
again very narrowly at the belt. The
sleeves are quite full, and band of Bull
garian embroidery wrought i'll rich col
ored silks is around the arm-hole, and
forlus deep cum AT the WTlstS.
On many of the French bodices the
silk lining is fitted with two very deep
darts, while the bodice material is
smoothly drawn over this foundation, and
is seamless. 1t fits, however, without a
wrinkle, and TO prevent even suspicion
of fulness, a whaleboue is run diagonally
across the lining just above the waist line,
from the second dart, and carried TO the
under arm seam, where it is secured by IL
buttonhole stitch. Only the two ends
are fastened, the casing not being sewed
to the lining.
During the early part of the season a
strong effort was made so Introduce long
trains to evening dresses, but this effort
has practically failed. Fashionable
women will not allow themselves to be
encountered in crowded drawing-roOms
with style of dress which is best suited
to the stage. There will, however, be
more train dresses this season than last
for dinners and receptions, but they will
be demi-t trains. Evening dresses for
young ladies and dancing dresses are in
variably made short.
Velvet, either plain or combined with
matalasse, is extensively used for recep-
tons and dinners.
For dinner gown the undeTskirt is
made of velvet, the front breadth being
gathered in at each of the side seams,
about half way down, 10 form care
Iessly full effect. Otherwise the velvet
underskirt is undraped and is trimmed
around the foot with Il biased fold of vel
vet, put on i'll shell pattern and caught
to the dress by buckles of jet. The di-
rectoire coat is finished with 4 short jacket
in front, showing a full pleated under
bodice of velvet, the straight skirt also
Il 81
front breadth of the underskirt. A high
collar of Jet finishes the matalasse coat,
and handsome empire girdle of jet COM
pletes the garniture. Gowns of mata-
lasse and velvet are frequently finished
with narrow edges of ostrich plumes III
the two colors of the dress.
The new tea gowns which are now be-
ing made up to be worn by the hostess at
luncheon parties or afternoon teas have
none of the negligee effect which charac-
terzes the house wrapper. On me con-
trary, they are dressy affairs, retaining
some of the distinctive features of the tea
gown, but i'll front more like the
Empire dresses introduced at the begin
ming of the season. They are made prin-
-eipa3fy- of plush and velvet, heavy corded
silks, and lowered pompadour brocades
of light quality. A tea gown recently
bined with pink silk. The back breadths
of the gown are demi-traned, the full
ness over the tournWe being introduced
In n cluster of shirring below the waist.
The front and side bTeadths of the gown
are of pale-pink faille, alternating with
long, straight tabs of the dark terra
Gotta velvet extending from the waist to
The foot of the skirt. The front of the
waist is in square Jacket effect, opening
over an under bodice of pink faille
An undersleeve of pink falle fin
ishes the sleeve, which is slashed up
at the elbow, allowing the uuder-sleeve
to be drawn through. handsome tea
gown of Russian grey plush, combined
with pink failie, Drocaded IN PnmpadOur
rose design, is made in similar fashion to
the one just described but is trimmed with
irregular falls of old lace down the sides
and front.
A number of simple gowns are being
made of cashmere for quiet tea parties ut
home, or for day wear in the house.
These gowns are made with draped skirts
and simple bodices. A cashmere gown
of silver-grey has a panel of ribbon
shaped faille in several shades of gray,
introduced i'll the skirt. The bodice is
quite plain, but is finished with a fanci-
full little vest of soft, -colored
surah, extending the length of the
waist. A dark green cashmere gown is
made with gracefully draped, but plain
underskirt, and has Il little pointed vest
of paleSt green corded silk, brocaded in
pattern of tiny rosebuds. The bodice
of this dress is free from the shoulder on
either side of the vest, and the tiny cuffs
of rosebud brocade are shirred into three
puffs, caught down by fine green silk
cords, which are llnotted in loops OF the
outside of the seam. Dressmakers are
making many dresses for the house of
cardinal ana of darker OX-blood red
cashmeres, embroidered in Persian pat
terms and in many gay cashmere colors.
This is certainly the period of fur ana
although it is scarcely TO he hoped that
roses will continue 10 bloom much longer,
Southern women are slow to array them
selves in fur, and yet fur shoulder capes
are not only fashionable but extremely
comfortable. BY an odd fancy monkey
skin is in high favor, but mink, otter and
seal are much worn.
Long cloaks in plain broadcIoths are
much favored. A very stylish garment
in dark blue has a in the back of the
waist and the fronts embroidered with
gold thread and blue silk, while the
front, neck, sleeves and opening at the