Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1888-04-14
vAtpeRelLr,s MAJOR ooMo.
Ms Theory Of Diniug - Fine Art--Th,
Advantage ls Claims.


Joseph Dugniol, the cook to whom 10 is
said Mr.. w. *. Vanderbilt is to give $i0,-
600 year, is a well built little man only
about five feet tall. He was born IN Bir-
mingham, England. He looks like an
Englishmau, and speaks the language
with strong cockney accent, and he has
an Englishman's love for boxing, and uses
the slang Of the ring. His parents, he
says, were French.
''1f were rich enough not TO have to
work." he said, 81 should still do my
business for the love Of IL. I am an
artist, and have invented new school
Of dining. Because man Is rich he can
not eat more than poor man, and yet tho
idea Of fine dinner lms been to give a
great number Of courses. II Is n mistake.
When q man has eaten his oysters, his
soup, his entrees, his fish, what chance
has he to enjoy his mutton or fowlp
When he has eaten all, his stomach Is
sop' and he raised his hat with both
hands slowly aboye his head to indicate
the effect Of the fullncss.
81 make him want to eat. First he
must be hungry, and then put things
before him 30 that he wants them. II I
want him to eat oranges, for instance, I
offer them to his neighbor. He secs them
and asks for them"
He comes from the Maison Paillard, in
the Chaussee d'Antin. at is only little
place." he said, with only sixteen tables.
When l went there the business was all
run down. built II up by treating each
person rs IL he werv my guest, ard study
ing his tastes"
The little director Is an autocrat al the
table. He does not let his guests have
whatever they like, for fear It may clog
their appcttes. al make them ask for
things and keep them waiting, Suppose
have served a dinner like this today: A
soup, somc fish, and woodcock, with
coffee and fruit. Tomorrow my customer
asks for woodcock. i am sorry, sir, but
! cannot prepare it, But in day or two
he will ask for It again, and then let him
have It, II l let him tire Of anything,
then my art would be gone"
A great advantage which Mr. Dugniol
claims for his system is that It leaves him
SO much greater variety of food to offer on
different days. Suppose" he said, II
cook everything that is to be had for one
great dinner, what Is there for to-mor-
rowr'
1t is not to be supposed from this Ian
guage that Joseph Is going to cook any
thing with his own hands. He does not
even profess TO be able to do this although
his father was restaurateur aud Joseph
grew up in the business.
II can cook many things" he said,
sand / can carve as few men can, but
can tell the cook how to prepare his food
and warn him II he has failed to secure
the proper flavor"
II may be interesting to know how
Joseph will serve a woodcock TO Mr.. Van
derbilt. 1t will be cooked only ten min
utes before 1t is brought on the table. ~
will bring 1t on while the fish Is being
eaten, and have an alcohol brasier on
the table. 1t has sauce Of red wine and
gravy In it. l carve the bird and put all
the bones and back into the sauce. The
odor and appearance Of the bird cxcites
the appetite. 1t takes twenty-five min
utes to cook a woodcock The bird has
only been cooked ten minutes when I
carve 1t. Now send the meat back to
the oven for fifteen minutes, and the back
and the bones, In which the richest flavor
IL found, are left to stow. When the meat
comes back II is on hot plate, and
strain the rich sauce over It, New York
SIM