Los Angeles daily herald., 1888-10-22
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS
AS Reported by the Fashion Editor
of Harper's BaZar.

Notwithstanding the fancy for redin-
gotes and round waists, basques are not
abandoned, but are more simply shaped
in the back than formerly, while the
front is most elaborately trimmed. One
of the simplest fashions is that of putting
sash of silk eight inches wide, when
doubled across the ends of the front of
the basque, and letting it fall nearly to
the foot Of the skirt; above this are vest
and revers the back is then rounded or
pointed with the skirt sewed above its
edges. Youthful and dressy basques
have the short Eton jacket fronts cut off
squarely at the waist line, with the edges
turned back in revers that begin in
point at the waist, and gradually widen
to three or four inches at the top, turning
over there almost broad enough to touch
the armhole seams. The vest inside
this may be of contrasting cloth
or cross-striped silk or velvet,
lying perfectly fiat, or it may be double
breasted and smooth, or else4it may be
very full, and crossed from the top, leav-
ing a T-shaped space to be filled by a
plastron or chemisette and standing col
lar. The back may be plainly curved
below the waist line, with the back
breadths of the skirt hooked upon it, or
it may be cut in points at the side that
hang with tasseled ends or are merely
bordered with gimp, or else the middle
forms ends in two soft leaf points longer
than the pointed ends of the side forms.
1t is now thought necessary to add full
position pleats in the habit-back shape,
as there is preference for having the
breadths appear to be continuous, or at
least not much widened below the waist
line. The short wide Directoire revers
confined to the upper part of the front OF
the waist are seen on basques precisely
as they are on the long redingotes, and
the broad Empire belt remains in favor.
New sleeves are made in full in many
diffesent ways, giving at last change
from the slim coat sleeves, for even the
latter are made wider than formerly, and
in some cases they drop down from the
top in cross fold separate from the lin
ing, and are sewed very full in a point
in the top of the armhole. Even cloth
sleeves are full from the armhole to half
way below the elbow. where they are
gathered over an inner sleeve of cloth of
contrasting color, which is made closer
fitting, though not tight. as when finished
with it's turned back cuff (also of cloth),
it is large enough for the hand to pass
through. Sometimes the cloth is shirred
in point at the armhole, and band
of galleon forms cap, or jockey, as
French modistes say around the armhole,
and similar band conceals the seam
which Joins the full part of deep cuff.
Velvet or plush sleeves are also full, with
deep cuff covered with passementerie.
In some coat sleeves fulness is added by
lengthening and widening the upper end,
and folding it carelessly around the arm
hole in thick irregular folds. Some new
deep cuffs fare outward like gauntlets,
and extend in two or three points above
the end of the full sleeves.
The fronts of new dress skirts are per-
fectly flat, and fulness over the hips is
seldom seen. Two long tabs Of the ma
terial of the basque now fall fiat down
the fronts of dress skirts, showing the
petticoat between them and beyond them
on each side. For instance, lower
skirt of striped brocaded silk made with
perfectly plain front and side breadths
has two tabs of the plain faille of the
BASQUE, interlined thickly and lined with
the faille, then trimmed with one or two
rows of passementerie, hanging from belt
| u lOOb, dUtdCllCu OuAy dI uAAO pOie. OVhOA
fronts have the full yet fiat Directoire
sash, breadth of brocaded silk, with a
border near each selvage for their only
trimming; this sash is sewed in widely
on the right side of the corsage, gathered
or pleated narrowly at the waist line
and falls thence straight to the foot in
front. There are also many straight
square tabliers full and slightly caught w
at the top, but these leave in relief the
fiat side breadths, which may be of con
trasting color, and are often plain at the
foot, while others are trimmed there with
fringe or with box-pleated ruche. The
backs of skirts add to the slender effec
by their drapery being in long straigh
lines unbroken by any touched-up length
in the side seams. Three and sometimes
four, breadths of silk form the back o
the skirt, with the fulness massed in {
narrow space, and often held in shelving
pleats that extend far out beyond th'
ledge of the basque on which they ar
mounted. The number of steels uset
depends on the fabric, as the very sof
stuffs are made up over two steels with
slight cushion pad, while stiff fabrics re
lquire but one steel. All steels are shorte
and more flexible, and are loosely tie,
to form small curves.
4 A new pale grayish green called ree'
lgreen combines tastefully with white