The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1888-02-05
MRS. LANGTRY ON DRESS
She Thinks It a Subject That Demands In.
dividual Stddy-An Enemy to tho Bustle.

She Thinks 1t a Subject That Demands In
dividual Stady-An Enemy to tho Bustlc.
New York Mail and Express.
sometimes" she said, 81 do not know which
to blame the most the dressmakers that cut
every gown they make like another. the
women who let them. Now, you have square
shoulders. and isn't it perfectly absurd for your
dressmaker to try and put the high sleeves on
you that are only meant for q woman with
champagne shoulders and then try and make
the champagne bottle look well in dress that
is cut to make you look less square2 And yet
that is what full half of all the dressmakers,
men and oil alike. try TO do. They bring a
woman out dress. Mrs. So-and so has taken
this Mrs So-and-so is slender and blonde The
other is big and dark. The dress is delicate
blue and very elaborate 1t makes no difference.
she takes it, and everybody that sees her In it
goes away and says how coarse aud old she is
getting.
'It is the same way with some particular style
of a garment. Worth axes tight-ittng short
jacket for some one whom it exactly suits. Be-
fore you would think it possible everybody from
Paris to Chicago is wearing short, tight-fittng
coats, and nine out OF ten are looking like guys.
another thing that always annoys me is the
hay-bag question. 1t makes difference
whether the woman who is to wear the dress is
big or little, or with long back or a short one.
When her dress comes home there's the same
sized hay-bag sewn in the back of her dress.
Oh! sometimes when go by the shop doors and
see the Langtry bustles' rafting in the wind, or
even hanging in the windows. 1 just long to put
my head out OF the window and tell everybody
mot to believe a word of itp The Langtry
hustle what there is of it, is perfectly natural
far. and have not any intention OF chang
s.Of course, am tall woman and not large
woman. and. of course, too, spend more money
Oh my clothes than great many women care to
or could-with me, l have to-but it certainly
seems. just the same, as if svery woman who
has any slime for dress st all ought to study her
self and know herself from top to toe. l really
think know every line OF my body and can
tell in minute just what can or cannot wear,
and am sure the time 1t has cost me has been
q cheap investment A woman who does study
herself can dress much more cheaply. has
dresses to wear out that she knows makes her
look like guy, and has always the satisfaction
of looking and feeling perfectly well dressed.
more than this. she not only studies her
figure and complexion. but she studies her posi-
ton and the places whore she wears her differ
ent dresses we'll. If she is society woman,
she does not wear carriage dress to church.
but some simple cloth gown or soft silk. If she
is an actress. she does not 60 on the promenade
in a gown that is an advertisement of her pro-
fession, but rather in the most inconspicuous
dress of a lady. If she is business woman, and
particularly if she ls forced to go into the lower
part of the city great deal. her and
bonnets are chosen with the idea of being
always we'll dressed and tidy without drawing
auy ones attention to the articles themselves.
'.Ope Of the most puZzling questions in the
matter of personal style is whether it is well
not to have more than one dress or bonnet made
after a single model For myself. do not care
to do So know Worth has often said to me
when have been particularly pleased with
something he has gotten up for me: w by not
have another, say IN white or pinkg I always
say MOP for in the first place would be
much more likely to have a Worth gown copied
by come less expensive process and 10 the next
place am ono of those unlucky women who
are never quite sure now they are going to look
in an hours time. and it ALWAYS quite upsets me
TO feel blue and nhappy and know that the
gown have on is just the one l ought not to
wear.
s.Thers is one way. though. that do believe
in having things alike and that is in underwear
and in general outline. ! do not like to see any
big as herself, and again straight and SLIM
woman play tricks with her beauty in that sort
tie on general principles. believe in letting the
material of the gown do all the Disgusting that
il is necessary should be done. It is the only
wav that will allow a woman to look well either
sitting or walking. The hard hay bag is
bound to keep the one who wears it either lean
ing back in her carriage or chair in the most IN
dignifsd attitude possible, or sitting bolt up
right In either case she is going TO be
tremely uncomfortable herself and make her
misery known-
$50 you really wish to go on record a strict
anti bustleiteP
II do There some little women who GER
tainly look very we'll trussed up in tight tailor
made suits, with skirts draped on the usual
swinging case. but thew would certaily look ex-
acty as well if they were able to lift their arms
turn their heads without almost cutting their
throais over the high. white collars, or sit in
peace in q low chair My ideal dress
ID q thousand times more clear in my