Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-02-11

THROUGH THE PARKS AND PAsHos-FAvoRITR DRIVES
AND ELEGANT EQUIPAGEs-BRJILIANT SCENES AT
NIGHT-A VAST PLEASURE GARDEN-NEIoploUs
SOUNDS AND DELICIOUS DAIIIANcE

| Special Correspondence Of THE EVENING STAR.
| HAVANA, CUBA, February o, 1888
Though the parks and paseos OF Havana are in
themselves in nowise more Interesting than those
OF many other noted cities, they become extremely
| engaging as the points from which so much that
| is characteristic in CUBA may be studied
Down at the wnarves OF the old ruined Church
| OF san Francisco Is the abandoned plaza OF that
| name, which, century ago, comprised the arch
| bishops splendid gardens. Here are now found
hundreds OF chattertng carreteros and their CARTS
with oxen and mules disposed in lazy negligence
and recalling the old camps Of the 'muie-whack-
ers" In the rear Of our army when we fought from
Chicamauga to Atlanta. A little farther north,
toward the harbOr entrance is the dainty Plaza
de ArInas This IS the center OF the greatest bus-
NESS activity or the capital near the government
palaces OF government officials. ON its eastern,
or harpor, SIDE, stands little temple sacred TO
columbus, containing bust OF the great dis
coverer, and three historical paintings This tenn
pie Is opened once each year-NOvember 10, on the
Ieast OF san Cristoba. In the center OF the plaza
Is superb statue OF FerdinandVH. Though only
covering the area OF an American square or block,
this park Is one OF the most beautiful and pic
were opened outside the old city walls at night
was fortwO centuries the scene OF rare social and
civic splendors.
AT THE HARBOR ENTRANCE
itself, opposite Moro castle and behind La Punta
FORT lies ParQue de la Punta set like an emerald in
the spear-lke point upon which breaks the blue
sen. Near here is the Gale Bauarte quarter
where nave many queer friends among the lOwly
Io Herv , are inc t tn from the forts
Hook thousands OF the azzaroni for basking in the
sun 10 the sound OF The oceans lullaby. Here are
the hospitals and the prisons, where the Ill and
tine ironed look upon palms and flowers. Here all
day pass cavalcadeS or horses tied nose and TAIL
And here begins that most enchanting way,
THE GALE ASCHA DEL NoRrE,
which, underneath architecture as quaint and
beautiful as that OF Nuremberg or Venice, for
miles. and forever swept by enchanting Sea air
mingled with all the balm and thyme OF the trop-
les, skirts the ocean past weird rows or bahos or
bILh5 chi5eled In the solid rock, stretching an
circllng away like cleaning white ribbon flung
upon mantle OF purple and pink, TO ancient
by fountains, parks and gay quintas OF the rich,
1moedded in parterres or SeHSe-Dewitching peren-
NAL flowers with no thought OF time or care, TO
upon beauty of sky, air. land and sea, and the mar
yel0u5 faces OF Sp ,nsh women bending pleasantly
idyI rairer than can be limned and sweeter than
can be penned. IL is a delicious dream that, fixed
In the memory, ripples with sunshine, pulses with
Udor, nurinuls with melody, and Is eloquent with
life and beauty.
The main prd6o, park and paseo system Of
Havana, as recently developed, and independ-
ent or the little pazas scattered about the city,
Is most admirable, indeed beautiful. Practi-
caliy beginning at Parque de la Punta at the
seashore, IL extends almost due south TO the
center OF the city, and thence at right angle
west, through the residence portion, terminal
Ing at the foot OF a hill surrounded by the for
full suburban calzadas and paseOs, leading to
pretty villas and villages, are found.
THE PRADO
Is In imitation Ofsthe grand prado at Madrid, and
with its rich stretch OF green broken only
by an occasional marble fountain, and its splendid
Sass at either sds
trial. with It's spacious walks parterres, Its fOun-
tains, the masterpiece OF which is La Fuenta de la
India or the fountain Of India, executed in Italy
at fabulous cost and representing an Indian
maiden, allegOrical OF Havana, supporting shield
bearing the arms OF the city. Just beyond this, TO
the southwest, comes the famous Campo de Marie,
formerly drill and parade ground for the Spanish
sOidiery. 1t is now laid out into broad walks and
iron fence with colossal gates. This Improve
ment was made under the government Of Gen.
Tacon, the most hated and praised Of Cuban
are thanked by immense square pillars. are called
the gates OF Columbus OF Cortez OF Pizarro and OF
TacOn.
THE CUBAN CHAMPS ELYsEEs.
Turning to the west from Campo del Marie,
you enter the magnificent Cazada de la Reina
mile in length, the continuation OF which at the
grand statue OF Carlos III. forms the equally spen.
did Pasto de Tacon. also mile In length. The
calZada and paStO are one and the same thing,
and are TO Havana what the Champs Elysees Is TO
Paris, though here is no noble Bots de BOulogne to
Juliil the promise OF majestic Arc de Triomphe
Indeed the Plaza de Toros, where the greatest
Cuban bull-i1ghts occur. is the most important
point OF interest TO which the grand way leads.
But at It's right are some fine Cuban Villas nclud-
Ing the countryseat or San ignacio and the Quinta
de los Moi,noS, or the gOyernOr-generarS villa as
also the infantry barracks and the botanical gar
den. Besides these parks and ways there is the
weird Old plaza rife With an hundred SAD romanceS
OF the prOfligate aristocracy. Cortlna de valdes,
over there by the BoqueIa wall, as tragic spot
ever was beaten by the sea, all under the shadow
OF The old cathedral; the little park OF San Juan
de Dios, for all the world like dainty nest drop
pl balconies. Ia
de Paula, that like the aiamedas OF many Italian
cities by the Mediterranean, bringing TO the very
oceans brink the gloreS OF field and Forest skirts
the harbor away To the south, Opulently carrying
the spendors OF the tropics to the very presence OF
the busy maritime life OF the bay.
IN THE PARKS.
By day the parks are charming with color sun.
shine and melody. which you nay enjoy almost
wholly by yourself Possibly there may be here
and there seen old Chinese servitor picking and
pruning about bit, who Is too deaf TO hear and
TOO old TO talk; or another foreigner, like yourself
who sits about, big-eyed and Open-InOuthed, as II
wondering where are the thousands who should
enjoy these glories for their bodies and souls
sake; Or q beggar who has crept in here for
quiet from the rattle and clater OF the street.
or, rarely, nifiera or nursema1d with a child or
two, who sit In decorous quiet where there should
be life and gladness and with all the beauty and
sOngful sound about you, you feel something as
one might II set down In a heaven which had lust
portunity TO feast upon the delight In these won
derful trees and flowers, from palm to pendant
campanile. And when night comes you then
learn that the day-the day OF life and beauty
here-haS just begun. All Havana Is in the parks
and cafes or on the housetops at night. AS the
sun goes down 1t seems as though from every
quarter come thousands for the nightly outing
the streets. plaZas, and cafes dazzle with light
narinS from the quain:est OF burners and frames
and the brllliant-colored glass, universally and
richly used In decoration, adds beauty and charm
to countless pleasing scenes.
THERE Is MUSIC EVERYWHERE
Here In half-ighted, richly decorated balcony is
group OF men and women chatting In low, musi-
cal tones or listening to sweet notes of the guitar
Ia this entrada, with a court filed with itch
lights. plants flowers, and quaint corridors be-
hlnd, In an almost oriental background are per-
street. and among them somewhere Is music
Here, there and everywhere upon the housetops
among luXuriant gardens, are merry crowds, sing
Ing, playing, or dancing. The half lights OF tile
night hide and reveal. Sound and light and
shadow mingie until the ear and sight are rayshed
by what Is heard and seen, and what Is listened
Tor and heard in thought. Melody In word, laugh
and song, and from musical instruments Of every
nature and In every pace-nOth1ng loud and sonO-
harmonious chords above and over and through
the streets You may be alone and not OF 1t, as
ain, but Ii Is all-compasSing and 1t possesses you
You know IL not; yet 1t has In " the loving fanili-
arty or the universal voice OF m1rth and music
IL Is in strange tongue yet 1t is as plain TO YOU
as the untaught JOY OF childhood. For you are
within the influence and charm OF three hundred
thousand souls given up wholly to delicious
dalliance, InelodtouS words and sounds, TO the
haiftones OF coquettish pleasure, to the elOQuence
OF bright eyes, and the passionate paSsiveneSs OF
NIGHT I'm W uatu