The intelligencer. [volume] (Lexington, Mo.) 1887-1891, 1888-09-29
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Fuii and winter MaLeriais-mIIi-
McTy-Piaiu Dress Goods
CIOHEs hId wraps.

EDITOR iNTELLIGENCER: - impOr-
tant features in summer ma
terials have been retained in winter
goods. BOrdcrings are conspicuous
and show Celebrations that are the out
come of experience aud continued play
Of fancy. Silken threads are brought
III with fine effect upon borders for
wool fabrics, and in tones of the same
color or in contrasts more or less
brilliant, give perpetual variety. Metal
threads play the same part with bolder
| result, throwing Oitenllmes the yellow
lnstre Of gilt, the pnrer rays of silver,
or in oriental mixtures harmoniZe With
leading idea of the time, that OF Per-
sIan designs. Borders OF oriental pat
tern are indeed most noticeable. Both
wide and narrow, thGy appear in end
| less diversity, while not uDfrequentiy
the surface of fine wool goods is cover
ed by palm leaves Of various sizes.
| Plaid5 are also IL feature, and together
with stripes and borders, constitute the
three most prominent thoughts III dress
goods. This is made evident iW Jour
costumes furnished to Harper''s Bazaar
for illustration by Lord and Taylor.
One is u combination of plaid and plain
goods; a second is bordered and the
two remaining show stripes. They
appear in the number dated September
18th and 20 far to show new ways of
making.
MILLINERY.
| New hats and bonnets are of felt or
velvet, shapes being chiefly longer
capotes or long turbans, with a compile
ment of broad brimmed hats for more
occasional wear by young ladies'. Plu-
mage replaces flowers and ribbon, both
silk and velvet, the gauZy fabrics of the
warm season. Edges are plain with
finish OF cords or lines, and velvet rib
bon shows band on either border. In
ribbon, the placing together OF differ
cnt wcavings forms stripes OF The same
unique character as that which prevails
III dress goods, though not to the
exclusion OF some fancy patterns, such
as large or small dottings on plain
surfaces or united with stripes. Black
birds are Il queer novelty, while moro
familiar birds become novel by the new
way of placing, which is head backward
as if nving off. Entire turbans are
made OF feathers, and little birds form
corOnets. Trimmings arc only mOdeI-
ate in height, and are often put on 81
as to turn from back to front. Ostrich
tips and feathers are stylish, and soft
bands of ostrich down attached TO broad
brimmed hats will replace the lace
scarfs brought around the neck
Among
PLAIN GOODS,
Cashmere, Henrietta cloth, either
3, | tutth cnnh hInh q III
finish as to be called Saline Henrietta.
serge, rough twill and camePs hair arc
conspicuous. Most of these materials
appear at times i'll fancy patterns, al
} where stripes and bars of diverse
weaving but identical color traverse
plain surfaces or bourctte figures give
inequality. In this way the demand
, for solid color is met on one hand ant
g fancy design presented on the other
A minority, however, exhibit contrast
in color, sci forth especially in ombr'
, or shaded stripes. Buffalo cloth show
! an almost shaggy surface with piail
contrasting border, while eXtremel
stylish varieties display contrasting
stripes and bars. They are very bold
and therefore adapted only to the tai
O aud slender. Reps, twills and arnurt
g patterns are most fashionable i'll silks
+ the latter with small diaper designs
D and brOcades appear in triangles
/ crcsccnts, points, etc, or III palm lea
: and tapestry outlines OnDre o
=. shaded silks are stylish, while the nev
= idea of Alternating weavcs find
= frequent representation. Marke'
: novelties appear in
CLOAkS AND WRAPS.
c The nuns cloak, covering the tigur
completely, full aud with hood,
u especially snited 10 light weigh
maIcriaI. The peasants cloak is o'
the same order, quite tall and salherG
about the neck, whiic other long cloak
are provided with yokcs TO whicl
tullncss is plated or gathered. Yoke
are really leading features, and appea
also on short wraps, where they merg
at times INTO vests. All this is yer
C different from the Newmarket an
z Raglan shapes, which, thonsh passabl
y as yet, are passing away.
n Lucy CARTER.