Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1888-02-11
In SOUTHERN MEXICO.
BEAUTIES OF 4 "NORTHER"-
PILGRIMS TO BAGDAD.
accessible, and Harbors TO Which
the Open Sea is Preferable.
Especial correspondence of the REcoRD-UNIoN
TANprCo Nov Tonuor, 81 1893

Especial correspondence of the REcoRD-UN1oN ]
TAMPICo Mex January 81, 1883.
As all the sophisticated will agree, a
norther" on the Gulf of Mexico is an
experience not to be envied. In the den
sity Of land-lubber ignorance and desire
for the new and startling, we half wished
for one-but may kind heaven preserve
us from another!
We sailed northward from Tuxpan, in
tending to reach Tampico in a few hours
but in these waters i. is the wind that
" disposes," whatever man may propose.
Hardly had the low shores faded from
sight before the most mournful gale ears
ever heard came whistling across the waste
OF greenish waters, and an hour later the
rickety little steamer WAS groanlng and
creaking in every timber. Then such
rocking aud humping and banging about
Of peoples heads as ensued in the low
cupboard of cabin-water pouring into
the berths and people tumbling out of
them-the walls and prayers of timid
passengers and swearing of others, ming
ling with the quick, sharp orders of the
Captain TO his men
Imagine the dreariness of the situation.
Rain falling in torrents, skies covered with
4 lugubrious pail, and winds wailing a
funeral dirge from over the unknown
ocean, while like dice in a box we were
ratified about in total darkness, separated
from bottomless abysSes only by few
worm-eaten boards.
Daylight made matters worse by reveal
ing the horrors that encompaSsed us Great
waves, dashing over the deck, made their
way even into the cabin, and every time
the ship rolled upon her side in the slope
of huge billow it seemed impossible that
she could avoid
TOTAL ASSIMILATION
By the next watery mountain that came
laundering on.
Cooking was, of course, quite out of the
question. The steward, clinging to the
sides of the ship and appearing to walk
hy-fashion - head downwards - brought
coffee and sandwiches; but nobody could
do more than make an external applica-
ton of the former.
The second night was worse, if possible.
than the first, the berths being so filled
with water that we dragged our mattresses
upon the floor, while Winds wilder than
the imagination can conceive, howled and
shrieled around the tiny bark like wild
beasts hungry for their prey. But-per-
haps fortunately-we were now past car
ing, and "sink or swim, survive or perish"
was matter of indifference to our sea-sick
misery.
On the third day the wailing of the
norther abated, and toward nightfall died
away. Then the Captain ventured shore
ward, and shortly after sunset the coast of
Tamaulipas appeared in sight. Anchor
was cast near the mouth of the Rio Panuco,
and flag hung out TO summon pilot-boat
to convey us to the shore.
An hour passed in waiting-two hours
and still no notice was taken of the sig
nal Il sure sign, SO said the officers, that
the bar was impossible The Captain
looked anxious, and prognosticated another
week of northers. An irate fellow-passen-
ger-the superabundance of whose his be-
trayed his h English nationality, and who
had not ceased swearing since we left Tux
pan-declared by everything sacred and
profane that he had knowed vessels as
was 'indered ere thirty days, yes, h'even
three months by that blankety blankety
bar p
Happily, hope springs eternal in the
human breast. We fingered upon deck
till night closed around, and then retired
to the damp cabin, serene in the belief
that tO-morrow's sun would see our feet
once more on terra firma. The last sight
that greeted us in the deepening twilight
was not encouraging gloomy stretch of
forest, fringing low, sad-looking shores,
white surf breaking furiouslv over long
line of yellow sand, ard sea-gulls scream
ing dlsmally as they circled around the
ship.
Alas for human hopes Next morning
found us away out AT sea again, the anchor
having been hauled up during the night.
as the Captain concluded it might be i'm
possible to cross that Tampico bar for many
days-and meanwhile norchers were immi-
nent, and it behooved HIM to get his cargo
into Matamoras without further loss of
time. Well, since there was no help for
1t, l confess that my
CHRISTIAN RESIGNTION
Was wonderfully soothed and assisted bv
the raying of that wrathful Briton, who
protested in all the oaths known to ali
languages against such summary DISPOSE
ton of himself and his effects.
Certainly we received the worth of our
money, if the number of miles they carried
us be considered; and in due course of time
we were landed at Matamoras, away up
near the mouth of the Rio Grande, oppo-
site Brownsville, in Texas.
More correctly speaking, we were landed
at Bagdad, which is the port OF Matamoras.
Neither is Bagdad a veritable seaport.
though it lies directly on the coast, for so
shallow is the water Whereabouts that ships
cannot approach it within several miles.
No land is visible till we drop anchor, some
two leagues away, when a tender" comes
out to take off the passengers, cargo and
mails.
Even here the transfer of freight and
passengers is sometimes delayed for days,
on account of the "northers" which during
half the year devastate this unprotected
coast. Tamaulipas pronounced Tam-aw-
lee-pas) is the Gulf State next north of
Vera Cruz, with an area of $500 square
kilometers. Matamoras is on its northern