Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-10-06
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
The Exodus Of Summer Fabrics and
Seaside Famlasies,

Inc ExO0uo 81 Summer F0oTico and
Seaside Fantasies.
FoREsHADowINos OF FROST IN wooLrs ATTIRE
oEonHTRIcAL AND ARCHITECTURAL DEsIoNs-rHE
THsrs OF FAsHIoN-BKAUrIFuLF ANc1rs IN YRArnHRs
AND RIBsoNs-vARIHrIEs m sHAwIA wRAPs, AND
NAHTIEs
From Our Own Correspondent.
NEW YoRK, October !, 1855.
The usual transformation has taken place which
occurs during September In city streets and city
shops All the wild-wave hats the seaside wraps
the seashore shoes and bizarre costumes which ap-
pear and give rise to countless "fashion" para
graphs, then vanish and are seen no more, have
disappeared with bathing suits from the counters,
striped cottons and cotton embroideries from the
windows and street dress as well as the materials
for II, have become dark and decorous once more.
Women appear reckless when they first return
from the country; and, indeed, 1t takes time TO
provide autumn supplies and settle down into the
Old conventional ways. Two weeks afterward they
wonder how they dared venture upon Broadway
In tennis hat and shoes, or II 'any body"s them
that is, any one they know and care about In that
"hurrld' dowdy dress
The shops look woody. but there is no obvious
dered dresses are excepted OF these there Is both
quantity and variety. There serges and vicuna
cloths, cashmeres and plain untwilled "Suitings"
decorated with woven borders; some initiating
embroidery, some Indian, some Persian patterns,
put the majority nothing in particular. few are
broldery in conventonalized flower and stalky
patterns that would have been considered "art" q
snort time since; but flower patterns have "gone
out" and the new designs are geometr1cal and
architectural which is the reason why these have
been turned on the market early In the season and
purchase for the ultra fashionable. They are made
the dozen or gross and lack that stamp OF origin
AMY ana INDIVIDUALITY which leader reQuli eA But
tney aHOru opportunities to the thrifty, and are
uselul IN supplying trimming, ready for putting
on, to those VINO consider 1t Indispensable. The
the previous season, but the eftovers OF the Euro
peah markets and are always, therefore, In rather
mixed" lots. Later, the goods appear which have
and II Is these which represent The fashion in
fabrics OF the season There are also other ways
or Ihp Dnis "a iaprcs Moc an impSrInG moGis.e
specially In stuns, something Designed for her
or 'our house." which cannot be obtained else
where, and 10 which name Is attached TO render
1t distinctive.
AN EVENING SIX
"CryStalise" is the name OF Q silk for evening
wear, which has the simmer OF silver and the
luster of satin. 1t ismade in Lyons for . famous
soft, Lwllled fabric OF silk and wool, with surface
OF satin finished silk on the 'front.' and soft corded
wool at the back. 1t is nrty-twO inches wide and
from "a to s. per yard, but 1t Is only imported by
special houses and in small Quantities It Is used
Tor Carriage wear and afternoon reception dresses
Brown and old gold bronze pompein and terra-cOtta
us prominent colors. Most OF the new, high class
materials for street wear are In solid cOlOrS; a
mixed surface does not admit OF the flne braidng
or passmenuerte finish, which now put the flnish-
Ing touches TO elaborate costumes. Naturally,
velvet Will lead tue procession as the season ad-
vanceS for there is fabric that is so ch
becoming, so adaptable so sufnclent In itself
yet offers 80 f1ne a surface and background for
ornamentatlon OF rich and appropriate charac-
Ter The restoration OF velvet Will be the signal
lOr Tue re-entry OF velveteen; q most useful SUBJ
sIiIute, II good color and quality Is selected
Inc best quality OF veveteen has merits OF Its own
upon which II can stand. 1t does not need 10 be
cas,ed as "velvet," which 1t Is not II Is not wise
to buy IT or make IL up into complete costumes; It
makes good short or demi-lrained dresses and
plain walktng-dresSes, built upon q foundation
shlrt II Is excellent put into short terra-cOtta
jacket Tor young girl with wooden skirt and
surah vest. II makes admirable indoor morning
coats for gentlemen, capital best suits for little
Doys; ana Ia DARK, wine color OF brown, may be
designs.
THE CHANGED CHARACTER
which these have assumed 1t Is necessary to re-.
member In the choice Of materials The bunchi-
ness at the back, directly under the waist line the
OVERLAPPING and overlapping, the supernuous dra-
peries, the enlarged tOurnure the cut up and
draped up "tabt,ers" apron draperies). have all
disappeared. Inc lines are long and nearly
straight, and the distinction is drawn rrom the
qualify o1 the MATERIAL Its color, tue kim and
quality OF the worh put upon lt-not upon the
10 II. The Venitian, square-cuL and elbow sleeves
are TO be restored; and nne Venitian slk has ap-
peafed, plain and Inquired, In delicaIe shades of
salmon, terra-cotta, sage green, gray, and Others
winch has close, armure-nnlshed surface. and
suggests oid-fasuioned neatness and refinement
rlcner and more expensive silk u the
'benares' brocade. 1t Is soft, thick,
pu.e Sax. the Inquire woven in delicate con.
trasting color, or with raised effects only
upon an irreg uiar, satin-dnished ground. Diffei,
enL shades OF gold, the lighter being used for the
ground. delicate peach upon cream, salmon upon
did ssrsllt
whILe and gold upon cream are the color combine
tlOnS remembered out VI many others. But daily
the task grows more dif1icuit OF endeavoring 10
convey effects OF color TO eyes which have not
been trained by acquaintance with the MODERN
advance all along the color line. The old terms
convey no notion Of the soft brlliance, the DEPTH
the feeling expressed In modern color and color
grouping and snad1ng. Marvels OF weaving are
accomplished to-day, hardly surpassed by those
patrons, a nations treasures 10 draw from, and
were encouraged TO spend lifetime Celebrating
one rich design
CURIousLY RICH TISSUE,
quite new within very short space Of time, is
silk guipure, with transparent gold squares, ng-
ures, or tiny diamonds, blocks, stars, or wheels
inwrought win the mesh ana pattern. The lace
looks like that made OF silk by the Austrian peas
ant women. aud rarely seen In this country. The
gold Is quite Jew feature, and OF course adds 10
thread Is now produced and employed almost as
freely as any other. Sllil It's application to Dill
lOw-maue lace Is 80 recent Cuat IL must be limited
and COSTLY; and the specimens are small and far
between so lar they are confined to vests, the
crowns Of few imported bonnets, rich collar
eLtes, and The uAe. beautiful toQue, with a
crown or this description, exhibited y full roll
front OF g0lden-OrOwn velvet, and tall. upright
loops OF ribOOn In cream anu gold brOcade. in a
fine, very rich and close pattern. All the rich
things, objects, and designs are now made small
and nne. The beaded work has given way to EN-.
broidery, with silk and unseled threads, beads be-
coming particularly obnoxious on account OF the
size and coarseneSS OF the beads used In making
these trimmings. Even the initiated tewelry ana
diamonds are following this fashionable current,
and while they formerly exposed themselves BY
their size and coaroenesS, they now rival the real.
tLy in deltcacy and neatness OF flnish.
TESTS OF FASHION.
There are always tests OF fashion. At one time
1t is length OF train; at another length OF gloves:
to-day 1t is color The educated, wealthy woman
OF to-day furnishes her house, sets her table and
dresses herself according to scheme OF color as
clear and definite as that which Mr. Irving carries
'.model" rooms during the past summer at The
Munich exhibition. Tue,e schemes" are not OBJ
lrusiye, they do not force themselves upon the at
tenJion, simply because they are 20 per.
feet. 1t Is only harmony, equality OF values
careful toning. proportion. II the want OF TINS
gentle sense which renders dress conspicuous and
most perfect wnen there Is 'n0thlng In IL to re-
member" But In the meantime 1t may be taken
tor granted that there will be 10 return 10 the
violent contrasts OF former times and thar
everyone can help the development OF a pure
taste by not 0utraging 1t In their own persons nc
the bidding OF some one, who perhaps ignOrantly
calls 1t fashion. Black underwear with black
but why not black silk corset cover over q black
satin corset and a black silk skirt under a hlocL