Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1888-11-08
NRw roRK FAsHIuNs.
New Ctoaiss aud CIoakings-C Change
and .nDportunisIcs im G0Stuntes-

Oalbinattons and Coi0rs-- Eilrs,
Special Correspondence Of Gazette and Journal
New YoBK Oct. 3l.--The new shapes
Ia oloaks demand new material, and
plush is displaced not only for this rea-
son, but because il has re- Sly been worn
for long enough time. Beautiful novel
ties appear in place Of it, chiefly velvet,
arm uTe, matelasse, brocatele, veloutine,
"a heavy rep with silk faish Batin,
Bicilienne in novel finish, or peau dc
suede, q thick silk without lustre. Com
pieiion ia given by fur trimmings, among
which black bear with long silky hair ID
mott popular. Long seslekin garments
hold position among all charges, but the
elegance of new cloakings to say nothing
Of the unsuitRbility Of seal far to new
shapes (such as the nuns or peasaut's
cloak, described in former letter. goes
far towards displacement. Seslekin more
over ia so heavy as TO have brought shak-
ings of M deal heads, aud garments
lined with satin faced wadding are warm
enough and far less weighty. Nevertheless
there is charm in long seal garment
while young ladies still wear, with
former delight, tight fitting seal
jackets than which nothing
more jaupty or better adapted to the
slender American figure has ever been
put upon the market. Stylish newmsrkels
for yourg Indies are made of smooth
beaver cloth in volcano red blue, green,
gray, fawn, or tan, and trimmed usually
with curly black Persian lamb skin or
Hercules braid, the latter much less ex.
pensive garniture. Jackets in this style
| are also popular, and some raglans of
light material will be worn by older
people. Evening cloaks for carriage wear
are still made Of pale or bright colored
plush; the rich mateiisls just introduced
for day wear ore also repeated in evening
colors and trimmed with llama fringe or
yellowish fox fur, while special distine-
ZION attaches to cloaks made OF very fine
cloth with tinsel interweayings.
NOTIFICATIONS
10 the making of costumes are all In
| favor of thin figure, ut least in regard to
corsages. The possibilities Of blouse
waists are endless for purposes OF inha
ton; broad Bashes tied OF the waist line
| in front, do away with tell tale outlines;
while z ,uave jacket fronts above, heap
Pslion on 0ssa, and complete the friendly
and becoming deception. Fufi vests are
| also o mighty refuge, while as the cor
ssge approaches severity of cut. aoces.
series only limited by the dressmaker's
imagination are iivaled by trimmings
that are potent for purposes of timula.
ton Nor is the ordeal of tight sleeves
one through which thin arms must pass.
Completing gathers at the shoulders i'm
! part hfeadth; down past the elbow goes
a more generous schsors, and a
tight cuff may serve to set oil
previous breadth and bring about
proportion. These remarks hold good
even as to heavy material, while in light
weight fabrics full sleeves continue in
vogue. Skirt dIRperits chiefly hang plain
and with panel effect, but some draping
and pulling being allowed, slender beauty
may resort thereto and substitute ap-
penranoes for reality. 1t is to be hoped
that ladies Of plump figure will draw q
lesson of subtraction from the hints Just
given on addition, and reading backwards
as 1t were, take long step forward in the
art of becoming dress, since after ell
desirabiiity must rest on suitability. This
last is the foundation, and IL that be
wrong theu everything goes amisa.
COMBINATIONS AND coLoRs.
Especi4l room is found moreover for
an exercise of taste in the numerous and
bVEpfihtHT CuIuutuhtlOus VI tAb udJ. AE
many as four materials are not unfre-
q1ently put together, and ingenuity il
strained 60 bring about harmony in the
most striking diversity of fabric aud
color. Unusual opportunity occurs like.
wise for those who study economy, while
Wishing to be stylish. Almost anything
can be utilized; small bits Of goods can be
placed effectively here or there, and
1 ,or,ai aoaaa..,t y,,, AZ he 10 ~ tho fagau
for black, which ia small or large proper.
ton, may give character to the picture,
oansing sobriety by free use, or impart.
ing greater brilliancy by setting OF
bright celors. This matter OF color
is indeed an important one, and
rt quires study, since huea are
so blended, that new element of diff
Guilty arises Purity of tone is scarcely
ever seen. Browns are yeilowish and run
into tsus, greens are legion, but casting
grayish, yellowish and brownish tints
need care in handling; blues are toned BY
gray, or occasionally throw greenist
lights; greys ct times are hardly graya, 81
freely is blue united with them, mahogany
grown deeper or more brilliant, bids fol
favor under the new names OF itru' que Oh
verpis, while cardinal is no more cardina
but feve, the Freneh for scarlet bean
Besides, there are new reds called sin
ferral," and red in general, is very pop
ulsr But hybrid coiors ar, seldom
long lived. They have their day o
peculiar etyle that passes, ani
aware of this fact economical buyer
select such safe aud standard eolors N
zeal brown, navy blue or dark green
How much may be saved by caution o,
these poiats is known only TO sush q
practice it. Progress in modsrn mann
facture is each year also factor ia do
nestle thrift. in special keeping With th
subject in hand, being the substitution o
cotton for silk in dress-making; NO small
consideration when much is dona. Olark'
Mile End cotton for example, is so smootb
strong and elastic as to form an eScellen
subtitute for silk, particularly as it come
in all fashionable colors and is suited t.
all Swing machines. The same brnnd o
new crochet cotton ia elso the first choic
by those who do that faYofite kind Q
fancy work.
FuRs.
Seal skin of course, holds position
now standard. Sal fur in natural colo
AMI with slight curl, il q novelty, how
ever, and it successful, will b5 NOR
largely introduced next season. 10 othe
fnvs popular fancy tends toward the loni
haired, aud this must account 70
the run upon black bear fur, which
leads in moderate priced varieties Othe
fashionable furs ore black, white an
gray fox fur, black lynx and maftsn
, natural aud colored beaver, blno ar
silver fox fur, Alaska and Hudson Ba
sables, the fist position being accorded
, Of course, TO Russian cable. The nswss
, shape in colisra shows deep sharp poin
10 the back, with point reaching to til
waist in front, Boas divide favor, an,