The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-11-03

dlrectOlre styles are thee SnurO, uodple-
breasted front, the long tails, the rererS or
flaps turned back from the chest, made wide
and the points sharply accumulated. the
large butt ms and the ruffles Of lace at neck
and wrists. These ruffies are reserved for
the short dress coats, which may be made
of fine cloth faced with silk, or of velvet
faced with embroidery, or Of soft, dull,
satin Franchise faced with passementerle
or enriched with detached ornaments.
1t is, in fact, very adaptable little gar
ment, useful as a walking jacket, yet ele-
giant enough in the proper materials and
with certain conventional notifications,
for formal dinners and the evening wear of
matrons.
The ''empire'' gown is more youthful. 1t
is usually made in soft silk, with full,
crossed, surplice waist, showing pointed
front of lace or embroidery, and narrow
breadth to match, in front of the skirt
The bodice is cut the natural length, but is
somewhat shortened In appearance by the
full, soft sash which is knotted or tied at
the sides and hangs down in two lo1g, uu-
equal ends. This style is quite as pretty
made in thin. fine wool as silk, with silken
sash and embroidery upon the wool; and
is then not at all expensive.
Simple gowns made up of one material
and in one color are always more youthful
in appearance than those that are combined
lacs skirts or thin tissues draped over silk,
1t is still the fashion to make a firm, I'M
draped bodice of the richer material of the
dress, or of a still handsomer fabric in the
same color, than TO use the thin silk, and
cover or drape it with lace like the skirt,
as formerly.
The lovely tints in evening .tdilleS lend
themselves charmingly to the formation Of
such bodices, and can be matched perfectly
in tIa locc axrtoapeiva cilly tho SHIRT hIlt
not always in wool. Nothing in the world,
except the sea and the sky, takes color like
silk, or brings it out in such vivid contrast
to surrounding objects. Flowers from one
shoulder, crossing the bodice and trailing
off upon the side of the skirt, are used but
If they are not of the best make and arts
tically arranged, they are better omitted
and sash substituted.
The new silk tulIes for evening wear are
sometimes embroidered with tiny flowerets
and delicately shaded rose leaves to initiate
the showering of the lovely, artificial petals,
drawn through minute, silver loops, which
have been chief feature, though not
common one, of two previous years The
effect is wonderfully fac, but the fabric is
so frail that it seems sin to expend so
much work upon it. Still it is no more than
that which goes to the growth OF the flower,
which dies SO quickly.
Ihh ACCORD Ot COlLOh IN DhEoS oCflhmES.
An important feature of present fashion,
and one thatit is necessary to keep in mind,
is tie relation of trimming, and all the ac-
oessories of the toilet. to the body part of it.
Color strikes the keynote, and nothing
must be allowed to interfere with what is
called the general scheme. Bunches Of
roses have disappeared from the corsage
borders and masses of dead white lace from
black and colored dresses, and elnbroideries,
jetted ornaments and color lines or sugges-
tons are substituted.
Many people desire to know how to make
a black dress, dressy. The very best way is
to put the principal part of the cost into the
silk. Have that rich, the form simple and
add little real, thread lace to the neck and
sleeves; and if liked, in jGbOt form, to the
sides of narrow, vest front. The usual
mode is to trim a cheap silk with cheap jet,
the most common form of common
place. 1t is a less vulgar, because less
snowy method, however, than to put a
cheap, coarse lace over a color and in con-
junction with common, cheap silk. When
black lace is put over color and in con-
junction with black silk, all the material
should be OF such quality as will bear ex-
animation and imparts to them an air of
refinement If jet is used, it should be
handsome, but it is better employed upon
fine cashmere than cheap silk, and rich silk
docs nOu require IL.
FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC FURs.
The furs Of the present season are in
great variety, but the preference is for the
deep, long haired brown, gray and silver
fox furs. Chinchilla, once so fashionable,
seems to be relegated by common consent to
children and elderly ladies. Young women
prefer seal and beaver, and the married,
who can afford to indulge their tastes, the
60. q -
vestment.
There is greater range, of course, in trim
mings. But many of these, to which high
names are attached are the
product of the commonest Of domestic ami
mails; happy use, which rids us of many
pests, or at least prevents their rapid multi
plication.
1t is dangerous, however to make fash
ion in any one fur. The American mink
acquired an abnormal value in this way
rose TO initiation, then sunk almost to ex
tinction, and is now never even inquired
for. Seal has popularity taken its place, but
the cost always limits the demand and con-
fines it to garments and articles which are
luxuries rather than necessities, for many
fairly well-to-do people go through their
lives without ever having known what it is
to possess "seal-skin," or even a collar of
this fur.
There IS nne evasion ABOUT names
nowadays, which helps to preserve
ones peace of mind 1t is not well
to know too much, if you would
remain satisfied with what you get. Your
Yards of Labrador fox or Alaska" sable |
are a full return for what you expeDd in'l
their purchase; but if you knew they were
taken from the cat, who disturbs your srest |
in the back yard, they would not seem so |
we'll worth tho money. There are curious |
people who always ''want to know what |
they are getting. Such ought to have lived |
in more primitive age, when communica- |
tion with the lower animal creation was |
more direct and the machinery of living |
ess complicated.
Furred Innings are more distinguished
Just now than furred outsides. Sealskin is
The only fur that is used for cloaks, coats,
nantes and jackets; and this in the same
yay that India shawls are still purchase,
IS an always good and highly respectable
hing to have on hand. For very rich and |
fashionable garments, the splendid brocades,
velvet upon which the embrotderer's art
AN be- exercised, and even handsome cloths
ire preferred, with Innings Of plush or fur,
II quilted down, and wide collars and
borders of rich fur which may be changed
,r removed.
The style and fashion of some of these
wraps recall all the old Venetian traditions
If magnificence. The stutfs Of which they
ire composed are in-wrought with gold
thread and even with small pearls and
precious stones, soft masses of black. silky,
yreyish white or yellow fur lie close and
warm about the throat and border the
garment TO the feet The sleeves are long |