The Portland daily press., 1888-04-04
FAMOUS COOKING.
vanderbIlt's Chef and Ben Buffers
Rroiled Lobsters.
l[N. Y. Letter % sprIngneld Union

IN. Y. Letter to Springfield Union.l
William K. Vanderbilt has determined to
lead all the rich men In the matter Of gastro-
nomy. Joseph Dugnol the greatest chef
that Paris has produced since the days OF
Vatel, is now ON the briny deep, having ac-
cepted Vanderbilt's offer of $4,000 per year
after very little delay. Dugnol is said to be
the best cook in Paris. His serene highness,
the Prince of Wales, says he could tell one Of
Dugnops sauces in any part Of the world he
might find it. For years he has been in
charge Of the kitchen at the Cafe Anglais in
Paris All the gallomets of the French capi-
tai know Of his wonderful ability and pat
ronize him literally. Even the heir TO the
British throne runs over TO Paris TO get a
petite appreciates.
A private letter from Paris gives the par
ticulars Of DugnoPs engagement. Mr.. Van
derbilt visited the Cafe Anglais for lunch.
He was not hungry, and told his waiter so
in as good French as the heir TO hundreds OF
millions of dollars can muster. The gorgon
shook his head, and didn't quite seem to un-
derstand. Finally. after a good deal Of de-
bate on both sides, Mr.. Vanderbilt ordered
call of the house and insisted upon seeing the
chef. He didn't know Dugnol from last
years birds nest. In fact, had never heard
Of him. He made him understand, however,
that he was not hungry, yet wanted some
thing to eat Considerable discussion fol
lowed, and the American millionaire finally
said he wanted light lunch something ap-
petizing and tasty, and would leave the de-
tails to the chef. Dugn0l gave him lunch
that would have made sybarite lie down
and die with envy, and that so pleased the
money king that he again sent for Dugnol,
thanked him, and asked him IL he did not
want to go to New York. The chef shrug-
ged his shoulders and raised his eyebrows.
He was happy in Paris. Why go to New
French daDa s aa5g aS tSe o f6r Rs s
modest wants of even king Of the kitchen.
But your pay is too small, "lsaid Wander
bllt. II will give you $1,000 year to go to
New York with me"
The Frenchman shook his head.
"How much DO you want?" Vanderbilt
mot less than $4,000" came the calm re-
"You shall have it. 1 engage you fIom
The two great men shook hands, and
formal contract was drawn up and duly
signed and witnessed the next day. This
pr0uides that Dugn0l shall have absolute
charge Of Vanderbilt's splendid kitchen.
He is to employ what ass istants he requires,
and he has carte blanche as to marketing
under these circumstances. Vanderbilts
dinner parties will soon become famous, and
before long New York society will be all
d6O6 OfCA tuO pOoluuulOuo uICdAAo anu PO
ems that Dugnol will inspire.
DugnoPs salary of $4,000 per year is the
largest pay given to any chef In this country.
Quite number OF cooks receive from $1,000
TO 5000 per annum. The Astors, pay their
chef the latter sum. Mrs Bradley Martin
pays like amount. Mrs. Hicks-Lord. Mrs.
Hammersley, Mrs. Coleman Drayton, and
scores Of others who give big dinner parties,
employ French chefs at from $1,000 to 5000
year. Jay Gould and Russell Sage are lovers
Of nlain f0O0 fhQU amnlOv pO0d QOnEQ buf
do not par over $500 per month. They do
not relish French dishes. Neither does Cy-
rus w. Field, Roswell p. Flower or Austin
Corbin. Editor Charles A. Dana is fond Of
good living He employees a French chef
who is able to give his epicurean master
novel surprises. Mr.. Dana Is well informed
on the subject of gastrOnomy. He knows
how to make delicious salad, and not even
Secretary Bayard excels him in cooking ter
rapin- Whitelaw Reid now employs
French chef, so does Joseph Pulitzer when
in town.
Roscoe Conkling likes plain food plainly
cooked. Ben Butler is the hardest man to
please; He visits the Fifth Avenue hotel.
He Is himself an excellent cook. He can
prepare salad dressing that would make
Lucullie's and Brillat-Savarin wish they had
lived until today to taste them. Buffers
great triumph In cooking is boiled lobster.
He takes live lobster splits 1t down the
back, and while 1t broils bastes 1t with drawn
butter He adds salt pepper and dose Of
vinegar. He says it is dish fit for a king.
He has receipt for lobster pie that his
guests on the glorious old yacht America
have often eaten, but he has refused TO give
1t even to his most intimate friends. Sena-
tor Eyarts, ex-Secretary of State Fish, VIII
liam Walter Phelps, and Ex-Governor DORIS
heimer, employ French cooks.
Elaborate dinner giving will soon be one
Of the features of life in the upper circles OF
New York society. As we get older we
somehow seem to follow the leaders of Eng
lish society In this particular. Dinner In
private houses at S25 per person are not un-
usual, and several public dinners have cost
the host from S75 to S172 per person.