The Ottawa free trader. [volume] (Ottawa, Ill.) 1843-1916, 1888-03-17
L0NDON'S ODD CORNERS.
HELEN CAMPBELL VISITS A veGE-
TARTAN RESTAURANT.

She Introduces Her Description Thereof
with Dissertation ON tho DIfiiculties
Experienced by London Working People
who Try to Get Meat to Eat.
Especial Correspondence
LONDON, Feb 22.-To the American mind
the word vegetarian suggests more or less
suspicion that its chief synonym should be
crank" and though here and there an advo-
cate Of its claims is to he found, it is felt that
it is but phase of the many conditions
through which the experimental American is
likely to pass before settling into comforta-
bic acceptance OF things as they are. Those
who work among tho poor discover shortly
that one of the tests of prosperity is to have
meat three times day, this meat being usu-
ally a lump of beef, fried leisurely till of
much the consistency Of boot heel and with
about the same power of nourishing. Even
the better cuts are treated in much the same
fashion, and not only the very poor, but the
workmen of higher grades, have no concep-
ton Of what may be done to make cheap cuts
savory as well as nourishing the French and
Italian peasant woman being on this point
far wiser than many an educated American.
Cheap meat is here, and in an abundance
that one would fancy should suffice for every
one Of the 1000, 900 and more to he purveyed
for. Australia and South America pour in
their supplies, and lands nearer home are
equally called upon. Tho "cat's meat man"
is not one, but dozens. and his trade an
nounces itself unblushingly side by side with
regular butchers. All odd bits and ends
'nter into pies or saveloys, form OF beef
sausage dear TO the popular mind and known
to all readers Of Dickens. But the saveloy is
mystery; not only the cats meat, but the
cat itself is an integral portion, and it is
known that ancient cab horses look SUSPECT
ously at the windows us they pass this final
home, and that rejected meat from any quar-
ter has certain acceptance here. The save
10y at a penny, with the accompanying mug
Of hot cocoa, makes a sumptuous meal for
the newsboy Or street sweeper; but the man
who has learned to define stomach shrinks
from the complications of its make up, and
looks toward the windows where chops and
steaks are arranged in seductive nearneSs TO
tomatoes and mushrooms. Often lie looks in
vain, the shilling, which is the usual price
for chop and potato, being needed in sew
eral other directions. The Englishman
Graves meat instinctively but wages for
every form of labor are so low that self de
NAL is inevitable. The English farm laborer
counts himself lucky if a bit of bacon large
enough to flavor the dinner of cabbage or
turnips and potatoes can be had daily. More
often it is but Sunday luxury, and fresh
meat of any sort is barely seen from one
years end to another
In the cities it is much the same. though
cheap meat, il the >lianr of tri,m aud every
available ouncc Of ihc inward portions q. the
animal, crowds the stalls and han-s from
every available iui.t II the DARK and Sju0Gy
little shops Dark with ace and CRIME,
srecklcd with SCOT. which flies pcrpetuaIly
and as lcrUetuaily settle whore one would
least wish t--thcsc hiurouS specimens of ami
NAL food are sold il any amount, from
penny worth up or down, and the record of
Punch is like many Of it, records, absolutely
true to lifc--thc stall and phenomcnalIy
big butcher, looking down upon Il Child, who
holds ont a small and skinny hand;
''Mother wants Il ha'penny worth o veal,
cut with an 'alnmy knife 10 give IL favor"
1t is plain that not even Australian sup
plies can do much toward lettering these
conditions, for, already said, both the
workman and the man n few degrees above,
live on sum limited beyond anything that
even the poorest American would think of
calling salary. 1t is true that clothing and
some other expenses are less, hlt the Eugsil-
man marries early and finds in the mouths
that must be fed his chief and most pcrplcX-
ing problem. The time comes when tripe
and onions liver and bacon, oven the savcloy.
are beyond Kim, and he begins to mediate"
on the ScotchmGn's attachment 10 poiril"r
aud to wonder il human beings can really
live on it.
1t is evident that the time was ripe for the
new departure which seems to have taken
place, and which. within short period of
time, has established twenty-fonr vegetarian
restaurants in various parts of London, all
thus far being in what is known as ''the
city" or strictly business portion of London
Now and then an innOvatoI who had crossed
the Atlantic ventured to hint that cheaper
meals werc possible, and that n New York
restaurant made money even from fifteen
cent plates, with their slice of roast beef
or mutton, potatoes, bread and butter, I'M
limited ice water and a napkin. with no tip
to walters, but he was frowned down by the
conservative, who regards bread and napkin
Us ,gtras and walters tips a part of the
lOunuaClOll bl Society llSell. Even Wlerc
coarse chop and steak can be had for sin
pence, potatoes and bread at u penny each.
with the inevitable tip, bring the meal to not
less than twenty cents, and there is no
medium between the cheap and nasty and
the high priced places
1t is easily seen, then, what welcome an
abundant and savCry meal from sixpence up
would meet with, and, after the first season
of dark distrust with Which the true Brton
greets any innovation was over, the new de-
parture was hailed beyond any expectation
of its originators. 1t is possible to make a
very comfortable lunch for threepence-sis
cents-and quite a sumptuous one for six
pence, while fifteen or twenty cents furnishe:
a varied and very abundant meal. Bread
and napkin are extras. but there are no tips |
to WATERS and the surroundings ard service
are clean and attractive. Girls are employed
in all of them, and their soft English voices
and gentle, courteous manner. in curious
contrast to the same class among us. are q |
very comfortable feature of the places The
menus are made on the same general plan
as those of any restaurant. There is n six
penny department On an upper floor, where |