Wichita eagle., 1888-08-19
HIGH ART IN DRESS.

n Ladies' Tailor Discourses on the Ny
steries of tho Wardrobe.
at is a good deal more trouble 10 ft
laily than you would imagine said u fash
ionable ladies' tailor, as be sat in his elegantly
furnished office and motioned a servant to
bring chair for his visitor ''becagse you
see, ladies are very peculiar. ! have been in
this business for years aud have had dealings
with every kind OF lady in this country and
in Europe. How arelad;es measuredi Wen,
first they take or their outer waist leaving
theT necks and arms bare. Then the filter
measures them from the collar 10 the waist
III the back. tho width of the back l. taken
CT its widest and narroweSt parts, the front
from the base Of the throat To the waist
next from under arm 10 the waist, and then
the size of toe throat is taken. After that
We take the measurement Of the bust, waist
and hips. That done, the inside length Of
tho sleeve is taken, and the circumference of
the biceps Tho measure Of the skirt is next
taken, up, down and around. Then we have
three fittings. First in the rough. second
with more perfect Innings and lastly when
everything Il completed"
''How do you make up a poor fcureF'
TLass an art. For Instance a lady will
come who is as thin "A rail- with no bust,
no arms, no shoulders. We have 10 ,ISe cot
ton waddins 10 supply Der Deficiencies
That's where a good filter COMES In A
bunClcr would make her look lumpy, but an
artist III his line turns her out a model Thea
suppose big, feshy lady comes along Sho
has an immense sxpanse Of breest or course
that must be broken We usually break tho
bodice into four lines By "a reyer " the ssEns
cloth. Your eye can uuiy travel from occ
line 70 the other, and before IL has passed
around all of them the rlisd forgets 10 no.
tice tho erpanse. A perfectly plain bodics
Is very trying except 10 perfect ilgurc. Ia
that event, Of course, IL only sets 10 of 10
Is not often advise plain fronts, 50 few
stand them.
How 10 American lndies compare with
English and French in their IgurcsfT
Il would say they stood Ia between. Tho
Freslch WOMAN II the perfection 81 style Her
carriage - ininitabe, whatever sho wears
seems individual and perfect. / can teli
French woman two blocks behind - her
walk. Their forms are III so rounded rs tho
English, and their shoulders are usually
squarer. Tho Ancricaas, On the other hand,
are moro slender and dciicpts than tho Eng
lish, while they have t-pne 81 that ind -crit,-
able chic ot tho Trench. ~ EHC.4sld. you
know, the ladies lead az octive ont II door
lfe which makes them robust ard gives tborn
good busts and rounded arms. Here there j.
not much attempt II exercise, excspt Ia
affectatiogl-"
How DO New Tork ladies compare ia their
figure with western and southern sirlsF'
81 don't think there Is any dispute aboat
the fact that hs~ York lafiics are toe inos.
stylish On tho continent &snyof cur society
LADIES would b r1istas<o for French. woI0ea
The southern b.dy - usIa9y thinner than
tho New Yorker. aod more langu.d Ia al
her motions. The wesFsrn girl l. he3visr,
the outhDe~ ars more EcCrentEst1sf, ard 80 Is
not g. stylish Some 81 the vos-rsrn girls
wotfl1 be models Of beauty II tbsy vr-c not
a littie TOO Deshy. II u not tic hsrd. ArTn
fesh that coined from oxerciss. III; tho bose
flesh of eating tsiae RON than tho ansyan.
Of exercise taken ~oaid warrant Many
New Workers. are rsore graceful tsan he
ParisionDss. II American C.rls cosd only
b induced 10 take 4itlo more active e1eT-
cise ont Of doors, thoy worlia - tie Ia51rls
Of the uaOdsrn human fOrm--,ss1 Yor.
World