Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1888-01-20
AMONG THE kANAkAS.



Occasion-Open Air Dancing.
"Band night is a joyous occasion,
dear to the memory of all visitors to the
island. On Thursday nights the French
garrison band plays before the govern
ment house in little plaza carpeted with
turf and bordered with spreading trees.
On one side are vendors of beer and
liquors-miserable sutton another
women sell fruit and flowers, and in the
center is the brilliantly lit band stand.
AS the band strikes up the people grow
wild with joy. Around the stand skip
men and girls, singly, in pairs and in
rows, heads up, eyes bright, teeth show
ing, clasping each other by waist or
shoulder, laughing and calling to each
other, while the dust fairly chokes the
putting blowing musicians. If a dancer
falls in the mad whirl a scream of excite
ment rises and only dies away when the
PROSTATE one rises and dances on. Be-
tween the selections they refresh them
selves with beer or fruit, while the Off
GERS or young men of the town buy
flowers and wreaths for the girls. as
happy with their ''leis" as a debutante
with her bouquets. A tall young globe
trotter advances to a group of dusky
beauties, holding high the finest lei he
can purchase. There is a scream of de-
light from a dozen pretty mouths, a
dozen rounded arms are thrust at the
prize as the garlanded heads bob up and
down, and then there is a rush and he is
overwhelmed. They climb upon his
head and shoulders and pluck the wreath
to pieces, leaving him disheveled and
overcome by such a whirlwind of arms
and legs.
Then the band strikes up and away
they all go again. At last the bandsmen
form in the street, the torchlght trades
men disappear with the remnant of their
wares, and the crowd gathers in line be-
fore and behind the band. The street
being darker than the plaza even those
whose dignity and responsibility kept
them from joining the dancers around
the stand, are now found in the ranks
Officers from foreign men of war, yachts
men, townspeople. globe trotters, away
they all go. nymphs and satyrs, in wild
Bacchanalian dance down the dimly lit
street, under the trees meeting in an arch
overhead. now to the right, then back
across the street. each line at its own
sweet will. Dignity falls to the ground
when smile and glance from flower
decked maiden comes bearing an invita-
ton to clasp hands or waists and "follow
the band" The "Pied Piper of Hame-
lin" could lead away these people any
time.
The band halts for some reason and we
oLaa1 90 - Al
street. On my right is a young lady with
a wreath of yellow flowers on her black
tresses. another around her neck. l don't
believe she can speak word of English,
and don't try to make her do so-there is
no need. Beyond her there is man and
then another girl-there are twelve in
the line. The band strikes up behind us
and everybody begins dancing. We can
take any step we like; we are off the
ground most of the time; and down the
street we 60. Suddenly my arm is
grasped by strong hand which slips
through: and l have on my left big
with head thrown back and laughing for
pure joy. Away we go, running and
dancing against the people ahead Of us,
breaking into the lines. first one and then
another, until we bring up against a row
of figures clad in dark blue. a party OF
sailors. We try to break this line too,
but the stalwart fellows stop altogether
and back up the whole procession, dig.
ging their heels into the ground and
bracing themselves against the attack
ing lines. There is a wild uproar and
they dart forward with all the rout in
pursuit, only to repeat the performance
later. Meanwhile the right wing of oul
line pulls out to the side. and off we
nearer the band. which has been left fan
in the rear We come into line with a
swing. and play ''crack the whip with
my Kanaka friend and bang him here
and there into the midst of dancing rows.
No one thinks of getting angry, and
you can do as You please, so down we &C
through the lines ahead of us till we
strike again that stout row of sailors hav-
ing their watch ashore tonight. Out
again to the side, a dance back to the
band-and all repeat. A street light has
shown Inc that my young lady ON the
right has a pretty face and is ENJOYING
herself hugely. She stands the 'crack-
ing the whip and the breaking lines
with perfect ease. AT last the band
turns into the market place and ceases
playing; the wild, fascinating dance is
over. We mop, pant and walk away tc
a friendly home, where we drink tea and
eat bread and jam with our host and
hostess till long past midnight. --Papeete
(TahitD Cor. New York Tribune.