The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-12-29
THE METROPOLIS MODES.
FASHIONS IN THE GREAT CITY OF
NEW YORK.


a Season OF Revivals-A Winter Re-
Observation-Disclosures in the Deco
lete-The Empire Proper and I'M
proper-The Exodus of the suner-
fiuous In Trimmings and Accessor-
ies-The Question of Good Taste
The Appropriate and Inappropriate
in Dress-Special Toilets for Special
Occasions - Christmastide Gifts -
Charming and Original Trifies.
NEW YORK, Dec. 2S.-This season NAV be
called the season Of revivals; revivals not
only of forms, but of accessories, of details
belonging to periods remote from each
other, and which, when combined, as they
frequently re, with little relevance or re-
gard for chronological order, produce
singular and decidedly polyglot effects.
The Empire" style is announced uni
versally as the only recognized "mode;n but
ii woman is courageous enough to wear a
true Empire gown-and there are one Or
two that "dare"-she is the cynosure of all
eyes, and in exclusive circles is considered
too pronounced" to be quite safe. To be
pronounced is to be condemned. for it is
the evidence of a disposition to step outside
the conventional pale; and when once
woman does that, ''society"is afraid of her.
for it does not know what direction she may
take nor how far she may CO.
Il always thought something would hap
pen to that woman" remarked one of the
400, not long since, ''for she would wear
her gowns high, and those striking De
Medici collars, long before and long after
any one else thought of them" The ''some-
thing" was divorce, which, however, the
woman had obtained, not the man.
Yet though low gowns are de Tigueur at
certain times and on certain occasions
that is, for full dress, in the event g-yet
they must not be too low, for that is vulgar.
will you let me introduce to you Mrs. So
and-Sos" asked a lady IF a woman of fash
ion and dist ction. 'Thanks, no." was the
unexpected reply. "She wears too much
paint and too little clothes. wonder if
she knows that between her 'creamed' COM
plexion and her decollete Dress she would
be set down anywhere as belonging to the
demi-monde2"
But to return to the empire styles Few
of those who make them or those who wear
them seem to know what the ''empiren
style really means. "Don't you want to see
my new empire gowng' asked one lady of
another, recently. eyes, indeed" was the
reply. II envy you your height and figure
dreadful short and dumpy' class, and OF
course l adore empire gowns because can
not wear Them" The gown was produced.
The skirt was draped and trimmed, the
jacket was turned back with high pointed
reuers from deeply falling "molieren vest
of lace. The only empire touch was soft
sash across the front on the line of the
waist. which was knotted at the side. "This
is more 'directoire' than an empire de-
sign, isn't ita' asked the friend. "Oh, no."
answered the other, with conviction. 'EIt is
real empire. My dressmaker told me sou
A general revival of the empire styles is
not desirable, for in those days women
must have been almost frozen to death.
The straight lines of the skirt, from the
arm-pit to the foot, and its restricted width,
compelled the wearer to abandon all but the
simplest and most ecessary articles of I'M
derwear, and to have these made of thin as
we'll as soft materials. "How do you man.
age to keep warmg" was asked Of the one
lady who wore an absolutely straight, short
wasted, low-necked, Simon pure, Josephine
gown at recent gathering. "Ot, am
very warm-blooded," she replied, land do
not require much clothing to keep me
comfortable wear close-knit
silk combination made low, Swiss cors-
let, very low combination drawers of silk
to match my toilet, one fine, soft, flannel
skirt attached to deep, single yoke, which
covers the hips. and one embroidered cam
brio skirt, which buttons on to this yoke.
My combinations are made to order, are
sleeveless, and fit like a siken skin. They
are not, of course, subjected to the opera
tions of an ordinary laundress; not even to
the specially good one we have IN our family.
They are sent to French cleaner, which is
naturally more expensive, but otherwise
they could only be worn once"
1t would be great satisfaction to inter
view, in the modern way, a fashionable
woman of hundred years ago, and find
out how they did not freeze to death. We
know the xture of the fine, sarsnet silks
of those days, the delicate, open-worked
stockings the test of fineness, was passing
them through the wearers ring, the light
weight of the thin, smooth-faced cloths, the
single soles of the dainty slippers, all of
which were for winter wear. Half CEN
fury later, little girls we're clothed in low
necked cotton frocks, short cotton hose and
low shoes in the very coolest weather, and
must have survived it, or they would not
have had descendants; but how. For one
thing, they were consistent, a virtue we
lack. Their dress was thin, both for day
and evening. Ours is weighted with wool,
velvet and fur, for the day time; while for
evening wear, it is reduced to q minimum.
sUPERFLUITIEs OF DRESS.
For some time past it has been a matter
for congratulation that fashion had rid it
sell OF so muCn In Gne way OIL dcceSSOri 3 10
dress. These details of trimming and deco
ration are constantly changing their form
and method of arrang melt; and are the
source of more waste of time and money,
m re expenditure of nervous force than
clothing ITSELF No intelligent person but
recognizes the vulg arizing influences of
these bedizening effects, and rejoices over
their lesseni & influence. But dealers aid
manufacturers have taken the alarm and
started The ball rolling again. Whole glass
fronts of the large avenue shops are devoted
TO the display in some OF evening
silks and gauzes and in others to laces, fans,
fringes, ribbon ornaments and ev ry de-
scription Of snowy artificial flowers,
mounted as wreaths, garlands sprays, bor-
ders, the latter frlnged with pendant
grasses Interspersed between the lace and
the flowers. or mounted upon them, are
aigrettes and Jeweled combs, enameled
flower pins and gold or silver bangles, inn
itation diamonds and small grou IS of os-
trich feathers fastened with small clasps,
which may be used for the shoulders, the
hair, or for ornamenting the dress. 1t is
vanity fair which proves very attractive;
but the fimsine and uselessness OF these
aids to costume are best estimated by the
debris of the stock, when the few OF
season" are over.
Some influential ladies have set their
faces against the waste of time and money,
involved in successive see saw changes and
p l. =. l..EN hat