The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-02-10
MRS. LANGTRY ON DRESS.
CHE OFFERS SOME SUGGESTIONS
no THE WOMEN OF NEW YORK.

Women Should Study How to Suit
Their Figures and so Dress Better
and Cheaper.
From the Nc'g York Mail and Express.
Another thing that always annoys me is
the hay-bag question. 1t makes no differ
snce whether the woman who is to wear the
dress is big or little, or with a long back or
a short one. When her dress comes home
there's the same sized hay-bag sewn in the
hack of her dress. Oh! tometimes when |
"a by the shop doors and see the Langtry
bnstles' rafting in the wind, or even hang
ing in the windows, just long to put my
head out of the window and tell everybody
not to believe a word of it. The Langtry
hustle, what there is of it, is perfectly
natural so far, and have not any intention
Of changing it.
"Of course, ] am tall woman and not a
large woman, and of course, too, | spend
more money on my clothes than great
many women care TO or couId--wlth me,
have to-Dut it certainly seems, just the
same as if every woman who has any time
for dress at all ought to study herself and
know herself from top to toe. ] really
think know every line of my body and
can tell in minute just what can or can
not wear, and | am sure the time it ha9 cost
me has been cheap Investment. A woman
who does study herself can dress much more
cheaply, has no dresses to wear out that she
knows makes her look like guy, aud has
always the satisfaction of looking and feel
ing perfectly well dressed.
More than this, she not only studies her
figure and complexion, but she studies her
position and the places where she wears her
different dresses as we'll. If she is a
society woman, she does not wear
a carriage dress to church. but
some simple cloth gown or soft silk. Ii
she is an actress, she does not go on the
promenade i'll gown that is an advertise
ment of her profession, but rather in the
most inconspicuous dress of a lady. If she
is a business woman, and particularly if she
is forced to go into the lower part of the
city great deal, her gowns and bonnets are
chosen with the one idea of being always
well dressed and tidy, without drawing
anyones attention to the articles them
selves.
There is one way, though, that do be-
lieve in having things alike, and that is in
underwear and in general outline. | do
not like to see any woman that | care for,
now with hustle on as big as herself, and
again as straight and slim as Puritan. I
think it breaks the charm to see a woman
play tricks with her beauty in that sort of
way. More than that | object to the
hustle on general principles | believe in
letting the material of the gown do all the
Disgusting that it is necessary should be
done. 1t is the only way that will allow
woman to look well either sitting or walk
ing. The hard hay-bag' is bound to keep
the one who wears it either leaning back in
her carriage or chair in the most undignified
attitude possible, or sitting bolt upright.
In either case she is going to be extremely
uncomfortable herself and make her misery
known"
80 you really wish to go on record as
strict anti-bustleiteen
II do. There are some little women who
certainly look very well trussed up in tight
tailor-made suits with skirts draped on the
usual swinging case, but they would GER
talnly look exactly as well if they were
able to lift their arms, turn their heads
without almost cutting their Threats over
the high white collars, or sit in peace in a
low chair. My ideal dress is a thousand
times more clear in my mind as far as the
back of it is concerned than at the front. 1t
is made so that the long Greek curve of the
back from the nape of the neck to the
broadcast part of the hips is clearly indica-
ted if not defined From there the skirt
fl is to the ground, not full enough to be
lumsy nor yet scant enough to be round,
but full enough and long enough to follow
the wearer and not go with her.
The same rule applies to every dress,
whether trimmed deliberately or left very
plain. For every use except for walking,
pure and simple, it should at least touch the
floor. Otherwise that graceful sweep that
50 completely characterizes the 'grande
dame is lost.
EApO+Iox 7 l, =. =
lew underclothes as possible and letting all
the extra clothing be put on and off in the
wraps American houses, American cars
and theaters as wei, are all kept fully at sum-
mer heat. Why, then, should woman go
about all day in such heavy clothes that she
is uncomfortable, against the time when
she shall happen to go out? How they can
avoid taking horrible colds l really cannot
see. Can you?
carry out my own rule by wearing pink
oaCste underwear-not very heavy mate
rial YOU know, at least not as heavy as the
American red fannel-and going from cloth
TO FUR for outdoor wear, just as the weather
requires. When | wear stays. which is by
no means always, as you know, | wear Just
the same kind exactly that / wore when
was school girl-all in one piece and laced
up the back, and the stocking supporters at
the side like little girls. | do not think
the double row of heavy steel clasps in
most stays are good thing, and think the
simpler fashion is infinitely better. | be-
leve, too, in always wearing the same style,
whatever that may be, having plenty of
pairs, and having them made to order of
tne very best material. 1t is an unmistaka-
ole economy to do so. They last enough
longer and keep their shape enough better
10 pay, besides keeping ones dresses SO they
always fit as they did when new.
Black silk stockings are the most appro-
pirate as well as economical kind for general
wear. The color of the evening dress, of
course, dictates the color of stocking and
slipper to be worn with it, but loud,
fancy stocking is at any time in very bad
taste, it seems to me. The shape of slippers
and shoes is another of my fads The
misery that some women will endure for
the sake of slipper grain too narrow is
beyond my comprehension. ! want a Slip
per or boot as short in the vamp as possible
and full enough 50 that can walk or dance
or even stand still without lettering about
clumslly or stopping now and then to hold
up one foot to rest it, There has never been
anything so pretty made for n woman's
root since | have known anything of such
matters as a bronze slipper and bronze
SILK stocking. To me they are the most
thoroughly feminine things in the world.
hen you get to the skirt, you find my
one telble, aud that is not so much of a
Iolole as it might be. In my silk skirts,
DOM for street and the house, there are two
or %, three reeds run in to hold out the dress.
hese skirts do not come up TO the waist,
put button on the lower edge of the corset
10 save the extra thickness around the