, 1888-07-24
DISHES OF ALL NATIONS.
Cosmopolitan Dinners Served Up in yari-
Gus New York Restaurants.

Gus New York Restaurants.
"No matter" said one of the leading
''Bohemians" of New York the other
day. mo matter what a mans tastes
may be, in the matter of eating, or what
his lack of taste may be, if he stop short
of c~annibalism in his desires, he can have
them grati6ed to the top of his bent in
some of the restaurants of New York.
"Shan l begin at the top or the bot
tom!' he asked, rolling a cigarette, and
settling himself for an interview. 81
think" he continued, without waiting
for an answer, that the top would be
the best, for probably even l do not know
the bottom. 1 shall probably stop before
/ reach the end, for it is hard to say who
does not know the worst restaurants in
town. 1 have experimental as far as l
dare in that direction, but l presume l
haven't gone far enough.
1.-The best dinners in the world l be-
lieve can be had in New York. If you
want to dine a la Russo, and take all
night to it, with a surprise for every
course, you can do it at any one of sew
eral expensive maisons near Madison
square. This is not dining, though;
that is a debauch. The chief of the king
of Greece not long ago described an
ideal dinner, and such a one you may
get if you can afford the price, in any
one of twenty restaurants. 1 am not ad-
vertising any of them. He suggests the
soups, one thin, the other thick. Then
two relieves, one of fish, the other meat
and vegetables. Next, entrees. He
wisely recommended moderation here.
/ prefer only one, and like a bit of poul-
try. This brings you to the meridian of
fha nnal on1 10 not N lol -1ao. f..
pause, or even for a full stop if you are
abstemious. If not, take a sorbet. NY
own notion is a drop of brandy with a
cigarette, but most gourmets prefer to
make a sweetened dainty of the alcohol.
Next, if you continue, and you prob
ably will, take some game in a roast, and
don't forget a solid with it. A dinner
without a salad is like an egg without
salt. After this you are ready for tri-
fling. Dainty vegetables if you want
them, sweets or pastry if your tastes are
effeminate, fruit if you like, coffee and
a cigar necessarily.
This is a model dinner, and will go
best if prepared by an educated French
cook. Cooks are educated in other coun-
tries, but they seem to be Indigenous to
the French soil. Turkish cookery is not
unlike it, and embraces a very similar
variety. There is no distinctively Turk
ish restaurant that 1 know here, but you
may get a pilaff to order in any good
French place.
"The pilaff smade by first boiling in
the same water, then frying in small
pieces, a chicken and portion of a shout
der of mutton. A handful of rice is
next boiled in the same broth, drained
and Drowned in butter. Al onion is
sliced and fried brown in butter, a table
spoonful of curry or saffron and a hand
full of raisins are thrown into the rice,
which must simmer until soft. The
whole is served with hard boiled eggs cut
up for a garnish.
SIT would take all day to describe ma
tional dishes, and a whole year for you
to try them all, but you may do it in
New York if you like. For Spanish food,
go to the neighborhood of Maiden lane
and Pearl street. German restaurants
are numerous on the east side. There is
a capital one on Grand street, near the
Bowery. OF French places of the me-
dunn class there are three or four >ex-
cellent ones on Blocker street, near
South Fifth avenue. Some first class
Chinese restaurants are located on Mott
street. Two good Jewish eating houses
are near corner of Bayard street and
the Bowery. There are five distinctively.
national Italian places in the bend il
Mulberry street, and one Russian in
Hester street, near East Broadway.
There are several good English chop
houses, two of the best, to my mind, be-
ing on Sixth avenue, near Twentieth
street, and on Fourth avenue, also near
Twentieth street.
"Of American restaurants there is no
end. The very best, to my notion, is
close to Washington market. The worst
well, there are so many worst ones.
They are all over town. You can eat a
meal for five cents in one of the st. An
drews' stands. You can go to. a beanery
If you van to spend ten or twenty cents,
or if you have only two cents to spend
you can go down on Pearl street to one
of the two cent houses there.
New York is probably the most cos
mopolitan place in the world, and shows
its comopolitanism most of all in its eat
ing houses. New York Mail and Ex-
press.
M,