The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-12-05

the advent or smoking jackets Tor women luo
fair guests of the smokers den, whether
they have any notions ofindulging in the
weed or not, may crafty their sesthetlc
tastes by having the pretty toys at hand.
The cigarette holder in its highest estates
has mouthpiece OF onyx or agate or am
Der and wee, golden bowl ornamented
with blue enamel or set with moonstones
and turquoises.
The brooch has a number of fresh kinks
of its own. A wrinkle for the horseback
rider is a jet or ebony pin cut in the shape OF
a small black cravat aud of nearly the con-
ventional size for such a toilet accessory
The pin is perfectly plain, save for single
diamond twinkling from the black surface
1t is designed to give the last touch of ele.
gance to the riding costume of black broad
cloth.
The enameled flower jewelry continues
to increase in beauty and in fidelity to ma
ture. Pansy pins are liked just now, and
may be made very costly by outlining the
flower with a continuous edge of diamonds.
There is a tendency to increase the size OF
the brooch by confirming single flowers to lace
pins and using clusters or sprays for
brooches and shoulder clasps. Six or eight
sweet peas, each with diamond trembling
on its petals, wild rose twig with leaves,
buds and blossoms, half a dozen Nea-
politan violets with stems twisted together,
a tangle of cypress vine with its small,
brilliant red flowers, illustrate the greater
boldness and freedom of treatment. The old
fashioned blue bachelors button is one of
the new flowers to be represented in
enamel, and one of the prettiest Flower
pins in enamel range from S. to $50 in
price. but flower pins in real stones are quite
different matter. A daisy or a rose done
in small pearls is beautiful piece of work
manship SO is a cluster of forget-me-nots in
whose construction are used only turquolses
and pearls Diamond flowers are just now
the proper article and are made of hundreds
and hundreds of small stones. MoonstoneS
and cats eyes are out into all manner OF
flowers, the blossoms being carved bodily
out of the stones.
There is great deal of bird, as we'll as
flower jewelry. a favorite pin showing
three swallows in diamonds perched on
bar. An OWLS head in strass or in cat's-eye
surrounded by horseshoe of old silver is a
recent idea. When bar pin is shown with
flower or insect adornment, the luckless
poSy or winged creature is just now repre-
sented, not as upon the bar, but as thrust
through and impaled. Twists, scrolls and
complex openwork forms in gold or gold set
with pearls are really the correct thing in
pins, though there is some threat of a return
to the old round pins in the large pinkish or
greenish moonstones set about with circles
of garnets or pearls.
Hair pins aud hair ornaments form no
inconsiderable part of recent jewelry. One
of the prettiest things shown is a comb
whose back is Of the shape of dragons
wing in pierced work in gold to be set
diagonally in the hair. Elaborate designs
in shell work picked out with gold are seen.
Garnets are coming into use for the hair, a
whole tiara not being uncommon, and
lighter corone;s often displayed. For even
ing wear fortunes are lavished on flowers,
insects and birds, with frame work of fllmy
platinum gauze or gold wire, filed in with
flashing diamonds.
A flexible rope or braid of gold makes a
pretty bracelet. A costly one exhibited
this week was twisted of half dozen
strands, and depending from it was deep
fringe of gold threads strung with pearls.
The flower bracelet is pretty and new.
Enameled daisies OF pansies or violets make
the circle, strung in a posy chain. More
expensive in the same bracelet with the
flowers cut from leaf gold and set with
pearls or diamonds. The only extreme
novelty in bracelets is the bracelet watch,
which is Just coming into use here, though
shown in London and occasionally brought
home by tourists for eighteen months past.
1t has usually simple gold circle, with
tiny open-faced watch on the back.
Next the diamond the favorite jewel this
winter is undoubtedly the pearl, and those
who cannot compass diamond necklace
turn their attention to acquiring a string Of
those milky stones. When neither of these
is attainable the third choice is a twisted
braid of gold for the neck, from which hang
at intervals clover leaves of emeralds, or
enameled daisies or small flowers of
gold. A handsome antique necklace shown
in Broadway jewelers. window consists
of a string of large amethysts with pend
ants of the same stone hanging from gold
chains.
There is nothing new in earrings except
the marked increase of the fancy for hav
ing them different on the two sides of the
head, diamond for one ear and an emerald
for the other, or a ruby and a turquoise, a
black and a white pearl being considered
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