New-York tribune., 1888-08-26
THE FASHIONS.
FALL AND WINTER MILLINERY.
THE DIRECTofRE HAT-DAINTY BoNNETs IN
CLASSIC STYLES.

THE DIRECTo1RE HAT-DAINTY BoNNETs IN
CLASSIC STYLES.
Low crowned turbans of felt trimmed with fancy
feathers, and oques and turbans Of feathers, VIII
be the first autumn hats worn, TO succeed the soit
high crowned tourists hats, which arc now adopted
early IN August for seaside and mountain wear.
Birds, tufts Of feathers, bands and narrow ml''s
made from the fine breast plumage OF tropical
birds are shown for trimming small bonnes intended
for carly autur,n, and many novelties OF shape
are shown IN the bonncs intended for the deml-
saisons. For winter wear, 1t is generally conceded
that large brmmed low crowned hats OF plain viewer
and fine felt trimmings, with large tips and ostrich
feathers will succeed the toques and turbans OF fancy
feathers and that eccentric shapes in bonnets Will
disappear and small close fitting capotes of plain
velvet ard felt trimmed in compact severe styles
Will be generally adopted by fashionable women.
Many of the brims of fall bonnets are rolled back
in classic coronet shape, and others have rolled
brims, which divided to form two or three Grecian
fllets, and are then outlined by lines OF gold OF
jct embroidery. The effect of the Greek fllet is
also given by narrow bands of fine plumes in the
blush irdescent tlnts the throat OF the velvet
bird or tho green neck feathers of the little French
magnifque, whose gorgeous phmage IL used in
various ways in trimmings, and is often made 10
lend touch Of biilliancy to the moro sombre
| p,umage of other birds. Many Of the FIRST Empire
DOnnetS
the Marie Stuart bonnet Of many years ago. Tho
new bonnets have long, low crowns and often
| trimmed with fat bands and breasts at the sides.
which, although they fitted closely to 1t. tend TO
make 1t rather broader on the head than 'ho
bonnets worn last winter. EmbroldereS on clOh ana
felt in medley of old tapestry and Cashmere colors
are imported in coorod metals and silks TO mihGi'
with more sombre trimmings Wide ribbons IN ola
Cashmere colors and patterns of palm-leaves and
dcetv from nj
are also used mixed with other trimming. Cashmere
effects will be especially popular, 1t is bald, lateT
in the season, when palmer bonnets are adopted
dainty, simple bonnet, with Just enough 'ouch oil
color and CLEAN OF feathers 10 make 1t attractive
requires the highest art of the miiilncr IL Is NeI'
easy for a novice to make commonplace pam
bonnet which Is neither graceful becoming, and
has no excuse for existence, but the shhpic
becoming bonnet, In which 10 quot" the miihhers
phrase "an idea is carried OUT must be MADE pS
deft, skilled hands.
The shades Of green shown In millinery goods coVcr
space than all the other eolors Shades OF oro"'
ranging from golden-brown to color nearly as uarh
as seabrown, however. will rival green SHADES lacr
in tho season. Dark emerald green's replace the
bronze tnts worn during the summer. Dove colofs
and slvery shades of gray fashionable color''
Goura soft bluish-gray, is new color, so called
| for the pumage of this bird which has been exten-
sively imported this season, yet is In such demau
that the price OF IL at wholesale has already ADVANCED
Black bonnes will be used with all costumes dul1hs
the fall and winter, and black Is associated with nearly
all colors except shades of brown. Black and car
| dnal black and green, and black and monsQreau,
faded rose COLOR rather stronger than old rose and
very popular with mncrs Just row, arc all fashOn-
able combinations OF color Crcam-whitc Is used
again with grecn especially with the graylsh rseda
green's with golden slvcrygrays and the gray
blues and with the new blushgreens called iguana.
The trimmings on the French bonnets imported for
ratterns tend TO close classic severity Of style.
few hats of velvet, with SOFT high crowns ard fuil
soft brtms arc shown but exceptions to the rule
The large low-crowned hats which form feature OF
the Dircctoirc fashions either OF plain vevc III
felt and are massed with tips or plumes from 'he
back or directly at the side or nearly In 'front.' Inc
/ pattcrn bonncts shown this season are trmmed WIN
large clusters of ribbons in striped or bfocade eec'S
| but usually in solid coor in two or three
tonc. and color The cashmcrc-colored ribbons arc
almost the only exception to this, and these VIII De
used II is said principally for trimming on Donne's
with strings in solid color of dohble-iaced salh Vi
velvet ribbon. Wide bonnet strings In the wid'h
| known as No. 40, which Will be tied In DOW unuei
| tho chin replace tho made strings OF VcVc'. III
cases where the bonnet strings are OF doubie-iaccu
satin or velvet ribbon, marrow width ABOUT TO- VIII
! h. used Wings arc put bonncts in many ways
Two wings. deftly tipped with gold, are sometime;
! stretched over the crown and held closely 10 It,
Many ~ the recently imported bonnets are lgh'eheo
hv a, omen spacc between the crown OF sou hho'eu
velvet and the brim but this opening Is conce~ro
when the bonnet is on tho head. charming nun
honnet NJ black velvet is made with close crown o
hlack velvet mingled with twist OF apple greer
volvet: the brIm of the bonnet Is then coveeu VII
band OF close cocks plumes IN green anu oS
saSn and spisrtte Complete the bonnet number o.
| heavy corded ribbon Of soft giqsgran us.u .oI em'
season. The newosi trimming ribbons SnoM m STREE
binaiion OF peau dc sole and gios,gran Ia haf9e
effects either I'm shade OF co!Or or scVeLai r si
! of color There aso also ribbons SHOWN III arni"''
be varev Of fancy birds IS very large grette
and trimmings Of the birds Of paradise wings are eA
cecdingy beautiful Fine cross ser MET mIjIery TIT
plumagc of the rife or velvet bird, which is shad'
Of brown dark sealshin and mas DfiHrah uh
other feathers The feathers OF the green couroucou
the gorgeous orangc-yelow and black pfnce,ILesen
bird the eoitngcr and many other ,opS pof phc belle
Black binds specially sought for ana WIZ f 3o "S''
green blue gray 81 solid black hs', iI1e iG ia onne
arc shown in jet beads and In metal as well a
! feathers. There many small pins when W.
ieo metal TO hecR Rcl arYN little SOSi covS a%s beetles
birds, are some OF the designs for bonnet pms
Agators teeth are mounted N metal iOr .ns ' pg
ilte gold pins in various designs set with Parsai
sspphres, fubies and rhine stones. .. l.. AN
undecided Parsians. who have never adopted ih
close Psyche knot worn IN this country, are wesrl m
dressing their hair low In catogan style IL Is TO-
early as yet to predict with any safety which fa.h9I
VII BE- sdoPe@d @ ~ s soms %s chang
Thanks are due 70 Atken, Son & Co., Wortbingon
Smith & Co and william j. Barker
unhy,s an IN that dSssf1 Certainly Why rot y
sisnt II rsther--er--loudi' ~ oh, WE'LL that doesn'i