Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-12-01

and the yellow. milo greens, tho gray or sage.
and the wild olive, all of which look well with
flesh pink or nasturtium as relief. Among the
afternoon dresses seen recently was one of
fawn-colored cloth. with openings at the side
showing fine knife plating of cream velon-
tine, with a tiny interviewer check of brown
silk and gold. The redingote had one revers
carried from the collar to the opposite side of
the waist which was faced with the check and
outlined with rows of fat, gold braid which
extended to and down the left of the skirt.
forming widening panel. The sleeves were
slightly full, set high and finished with cuffs
ornamented with gold braid. The crown of
the bonnet was Of the check, the brim of fawn-
colored velvet, two bands Of gold braid divided
the crown from the brim, and high loops of
fawn-colored velvet ribbon, with full plume
of crim2ed ostrich feathers (cream) formed the
trimming.
FITTING TOILETS FOR FIRST NIGHTS.
The first nights" at the principal theaters
are always events for which more than usual
toilet preparation is made. On one of these
occasions young lady, recently bride, wore
poppy red silk, with gathered front and back
OF poppy -colored lace, and vest of solid gold
embroidery in a pattern of oats Around the
throat was an antique necklet Of gold with
small gold coins attached.
An always certain way Of attracting attention
is by displaying in public q rich costume in all
white or all black. white theater costume
worn at theater party by daugher of the
hostess a short time since, was of white peau
de sole, which is another name for satin de
Lyon, or what was forty years ago called satin
Levantine, silk with fine, dull, twilled satin
surface. durable and entirely without gloss
The modern fabric has the old soft finish and
depth OF tone which is more becoming to the
complexion than smooth, superficial surface.
This rich. creamy silk was arranged in straight
lines, with one wide panel formed Of tiny,
specialize tassels of pendant silk. A low empire
bodice MI fu11 onfk
sash OF silk, knotted to the left side, opposite
the panel. A single string Of pearls encircled
the throat, and were concealed, on entering
and leaving, by long white wrap, plated into
velvet yoke, lined with white silk plush,
and bordered with white feather trimming.
In the visible aspect of this costume
there was not vestige of color.
The modified empire style has achieved great
popularity among girls and young married wo-
men, who ''have the figure for it." Those who
generally appear fempire in the evening, or
in some modified form of it. For example, .
low, square-cut "baby" bodice of silk muslin,
the bust outlined with narrow bands Of Indian
embroidery. Wide sash of soft, yellow silk,
knotted on the side over q straight skirt of en-
broidered silk gauze and long, loose cream
tinted kid gloves reaching above the elbow.
The worst OF the empire style is the necessity
FOR slippers, which it entails, and the difficulty
which it revives in regard to warm and suffici-
emily protective underwear. Carried to it's
ultimatum, as it was in the days Of Josephine
and the Bonapartes, warmth and even decency
are sacrificed to an ultra lightness and delicacy
OF material and form. That it will ever reach
such an extreme in these days of enlightened
self-interest is not to be believed but there are
still those who are capable of a good deal of
folly and who receive the aid of universal pub
liclty IN standing as the representatives Of all,
instead of a moiety, of women. One result of
the revival of the empire styles is to be noted
and remembered; this is the shortening of the
bodice and the reduction Of tournure. Whether
the distinct style is individually adopted or not
it will have the effect of modifying the length
of waist in all forms and strengthening the feel
ing In favor of unframed, slightly draped
skirts for evening wear. In other respects the
ordinary evening dress remains the same. The
low bodice is still cut pointed back and front,
the silk resting closely against the fair skin,
without edging of lace or tulle Thin figures
and matrons drape the bodice, as they have
done heretofore, with falling lace or gathered
folds OF gauze, crepe, or silk NULL but no edg-
ing is used above the silk
DEPARTURES IN FASHIONS.
At present, though fashion has developed
new characteristics, it still preserves its sover-
eighty, and shows, indeed, less respect than
ever for church or state, law or doctors.
Wherever it finds an idea which can be put to
novel or picturesque uses it appropriates and
employs it, regardless of custom. opinion, or
tradition. l have before described the Car
mellte dressing-gOwn, or. rather breakfast
wrapper, OF flannel or cashmere, with monks
hood OF white wool, and heavy rope cord,
knotted. of white wool also, used as girdle for
the waist. The sleeves are the loose monks
sleeves and are faced with white, gray peach,
terra-cotta, old blue and old rose are the colors
preferred. The "surplice" has been stolen
long ago. and also the gowns Of the doctors of
laws, or physics, OF music, and the like. but
the latest achievement has 80 much the appear
ance OF having been copied from the full canon
lcal robe of a high church or Romish church
celebrant that the first sight gives one a little
shock. 1t Is cloak of black or dark velvet,
the narrow straight back plated into the waist,
leaving depression in the center which is
filled with an upright, widening line toward
the throat, of gold embroidery. Instead Of the
ecclesiastical wings, however there are long
straight sleeves, set full and high upon the
shoulders, and outlined from top to foot with
a broad band OF rich gold passementerie. In
the double front, which is held by crossed cords
and buttons.
FANCIEs IN FEATHER FCRs AND FANS.
A novelty in sealskin garments is a pelerine,
cut square instead of pointed, both front and
back. The back is short, and with the addition
of tails, used as fringe. does not more than
reach to the waist. But the square ends in
front are long and form sort of stole, which
looks odd and quaint over the redwood walk
ing gowns, which are a feature of the season.
The feather furs are no longer novelty, and
they are so frail that they will never be popu-
lar. But they are charming in white, grey,
pink and black. The new models are made up
very light, of the most delicate ostrich tins.
mounted on foundation that is invisible and
adds nothing to the weight. The cost is not
great Muff and boa can be obtained for twen-
ty or twenty-five dollars. But they are only at
for very dressy purposes. not for hard usage or
ever. for holiday gifts, and they are q ''fad"
with some ladies for folding round the neck
instead of lace scarf; the wide and long scarf
which has succeeded the lace boa. For this
purpose they are lovely but not economical,
for they would soon be spoiled. The latest in
feather fans is large circular form, which
closes, and can be made a pendant from the
side. 1t reproduces the old Hindoo form, the
Sllded sticks forming central disk from which
the feathers spring. The cost is from fifteen
to twenty-five dollars. But on the other hand
the plume and aigrette fans, composed of three
upright ostrich feathers, curled over the ton
and fastened by an aigrette to the sticks, are
very much reduced in price; they can be
bought now for less than five dollars, where
last year they were nine and ten dollars This
Is because the shape has been superseded.
Transparent fans are still used and handsome
ones do not go out of fashion. But ordinary
painting has been superseded by criss-cross
lattice work OF narrow ribbons or by narrow
RIBBONS run in and out and forming border.
lovely but very expensive fan has ribbons
run IN and out across the top and q lattice of
narrow rihhOn fnrynipU nm ola So.I:1..l