The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-07-07
JENNY JUNEIN LONDON.
ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FASH
IONS CONTAsTED.

Individuality vs. Tormalty - The
Proper Thing in theW orld's Metrop-
Dus-The Elegance IF Sobriety in
Dress - Tlamboyart fashions of
American Women--Ldeponden of
Ideas in Social Life.
LONDON, Eng, June 2f-There is moth
ing more striking in LoRon-in the dress
of women-than its intiite variety. We
talk about this wondous diversity in
W America, and the corstatly increasing re-
sonrces certainly Furnishes with unlimited
W onnortunities, hut asyetithe majority are
slow to take Advantage of them. In the
street. and partiGlarF any gathering
# which brings nu1ber of women of the
same class and genial habit of life together,
the uniformity fifth which they have
reached a certain bne and standard, is SO
81 usual that departte is the exception and
attracts attentions an evidence of oddness
"a il not eccentrlclt
In London, onthe contrary, outside of
g little orthodox al conventional circles, no
II two persons WILDE found dressed alike
"a Each seems to hse a standard of their own,
81 or certainly to b independe mt of that of
any other perso. and only influenced, not
n led, by the locahnd changing fashions of
81 the season.
One of the resons for this sovereign atti-
E tude of the individual, which has grown
n largely in the JAst few years, is the want
Y of time" All English women have serious
& business onhaId. They must either earn a
N living agaist fearful odds or icy are en-
4 gagged in OBJ or more of the iInumerable
i forms of Iilanthropic endeavor to assist
others. Hre, it is not individuals alone
that must helped, but whole neighbor-
\ hoods, tynshipS and communities
Machinery as driven and continues odrive
hundreds small and large neighborhood
industries bm the market-knitters, lace
makers, wtvers, plaiters, needle workers
and the lik Agitators make use of their
miseries to Ireate disturbance; but women
are called BON to find ways of relieving
and permd emily benefiting them; and
thousands schools, classes and training
4 institutions pf various kinds have been
created and fostered by women of rank
and influenza f0r the purpose of meeting the
emergency; ie'eloping and aiding the old
H skill or guidngit in new directions.
A On the otfer land, there is a class of
women bredtU omfort and even luxury;
but above al, toan Unborn belief in differ
ence Of caste, WHO have been deprived of in
come and compiled to face the world.
Stripped of all tint had seemed to be theirs
by right of BIRTH If breeding, of inherited
claim, many of bem have displayed a
courage that their ancestors showed on fields
of battle, in defyin} prejudice, IN forsaking
ease and inglorious dependence, and taking
up whatever they wire best fitted for, that
4 would furnish a livelihood for themselves
and their families.
In the midst of this mutifarious life,
ID fhpSp pi.aptipal and ireacca dam %I,oro
& is not much time TO chifores, except to
8 make living out of them. Women buy
fewer clothes; and thy wear them, they do
z not make them over. They add to the last
II years gown new tluch in lace or passe-
II menterie, but it may or may not be har-
monlous or cOngruous though it will have
n certain relation to he individual which
makes 1t and its wearr interesting to one
N who is a social Stuaen. There is an entire
absence, however, of chat effort and strain
3 on the part of the majority to be in the
latest" style, for high fashion is quite
n beyond them; and there is less of the cheap
Il imitation of elaborate designs and rich
fabrics, than with us
1T is so hard to tell how to dress in
Il America" said anAmerican lady resident
here, for dress is % mixed. | have gone,
at home, to an evening reception in evening
IA dress, and found hdies in walking costumes
Al
breakfast and put on a handsome but
q plain velvet waking dress, such as | would
81 wear if invitedto breakfast or luncheon at
Il Marlborough house here, and found dinner
81 dresses and hall evening dresses, and flowers
n aud lace, and detected looks which said as
plainly as looks could, that l was made
& quately equipped for the occasion" The
truth is, that while there is greater
n variety, there is more exactness in
"A dress and P11nnh laSS
There is a few larger number of
women, who make no pretensions to
FASHION or society, to style or to keeping up
vita the latest ideas: and who yet are in
& telllgent and moderately ''well-to-do" OF
course there are many different grades and
classes In society, but strange to say, they
blend more than with us, since it has be-
come the fashion to be literary or artistic,
II not artists; and the dress Of women, in
B any society, while partaking of the conven-
tlonal or unconventional character of the
#group to which they belong, never shows
the Soleclsms which are the result of igno-
rance of all society
CURIOUS ASPECTS OF DRESS
Apart from the mere question of prevailing
fashions, the question Of dress now presents
so many various phases and aspects in this
+ great metropolis, that it cannot be treated
justly except in connection with the social
problems with which it has connected itself
nat these will change the eternal aspects
ol Inc dress question, or greatly change or
modify them, is not to be inferred The
world is always being turned upside down,
yet always maintains its equilibrium; and
II Is SO with all apparently revolutionary
movements; thev create ripples, sometimes
storms, but they do not really change the
natural course of things.
Inc little movements in dress are of
course, the merest little ripples; but they
a are Indicative Of the singular fluctuations
ana social phenomena which mark onr pres
sent era. 1t is impossible TO realize in
america, or at least it tOdS, the strong feel
ing winch marked the separation Of caste,
and which existed until lately in til S coun-
~ against following any trade or business.
= Snopkeeper has or had, no existence save
IN DIS shop, and woman shopkeeper no ex-
stence at all, for she was obliged to cloak
uerseH under mans name, or by initials
.nat tell nothing, in order to be able to carry
on business, without suffering under mani
HOLD disabilities
Within the past few years, however. all
sna1 mas changed. The womens property act
mas enabled women TO do business like men;
I'm eII me consequence is that half of it has
ldllen into their hands Women have be-
4 b b,ai owners of property through success in
BUSINESS they have invented and patented
loYeI appliances, and men. seeing the sue
ess achieved by independent effort, encour-
- needy women TO set aside pride OF birth
s siu custom and enter the arena TO compete
vi Ihe prizes. At least a dozen women of