Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1888-07-28

to your hearts content, or pass idyIlic days
with companions, with some safe old skipper
in charge who knows every shade of change
in sky or weather. Be a veritable tramp of
Sundays and evenings about the quaint old
inns and among the isher-folk; and sleep
wherever night finds you. For you will find
here those whose souls are not yet cognizant
of guile, and With whom unquestioning hos
pitality is a shining part of their simple pie
ty and faith. Then study the reaches of
channel, the black teeth of ugly lodges, the
plumy crests Of forbidding reefs Find out
all about lobster fishing, canning and ship
ping. Acquire familiarity with the fishers
of and the seasons for haddock, hake, hall
but, mackerel and cod, and what Ia done
with the sea-harvest when it is brought
ashore. Watch the wonderful eolors change
upon the sea- Note the sun light bathing
the mountain-tops and the clouds laying the
misty purples between. Find all the light
houses and know the keepers we'll. Sail
about the mighty headlands and put the
friendly hand Of your goodly acquaintance
upon everyone. And above all get into the
spirit and thought of these sea-faring men,
whose superstitions and lore are as strange
book that has never been read. Be with
them when the great "Black Fog" comes in
from the sea, and when it Rs mysteriougly
disappears, and at all times enjoy their. rea-
sons for things, their Judgment upon the
fashionable who are "sp'iin' the hui kentry
an days, their scientific disquisitions on wind
and weather, their revelation Of the causes
of coming and going of fogs, and even their
tales Of how the very mountains of Mount
Desert came TO be set upon their granite
bases. Two out OF two hundred samples of
this lore will illustrate what you will acquire
THE BLACK FOG.
The ssBlack Fogn comes all unawares-to
landlubbers at least. When first seen it is
1,-A e. e.
For time 1t creeps in from the sea, seem
ingly no higher than the lowest lands edge.
In a few minutes 1t has swallowed all the
outer islands, the lighthouses and reefs. In
moment more the bays, the mountains, the
very light is gone; and wherever you are you
are black statue in a palpably gray shrond,
which hides your hand before you. 1 asked
my old skipper where Ii came from SO sud
denly.
"Whar doss 1t come froml-whari Well,
nowl She jess draps fur ther FLYNN Dutch
NM to sail over onl"
Now that was the beginning and end of the
whole matter. IF you doubt or argue with
this sort of faith and fact you can never
more sail in that skipper's boat. So too
while yet first experiencing the smethering
sensation of prisonment In the "Black Fog, :"
whose substance. presence and texture no ar
tist has ever yet been able to represent on
canvas, in an instant it will disappear, leav-
ing as clear and pellucid an air as ever
bathed the peaks of Colorado. It is marvel
ous. IF you SO remark the crisp response
will come:
ssYes, oh, yes Sun eft her at one chawi''
In their kindly minds, which open and
close like steel jaws upon an idea, if it is
one which has been presented by their fore
fathers in way easily accountable to their
ken, there is no more change than with the
sand-hidden bases of the pyramids.
YOUNG MOUNTAINS.
Again a mighty geologic and historic fact
is revealed. The chief beauty of Mount
Desert Island is in its mountains. From a
little distance they seem to rise grandly out
of the very blue of the sea. The highest,
Mount Green, reaches an elevation of nearly
two thousand feet. AS you approach, the
sunshine flooding their rounded peaks give
them bronzed, metallic appearance. But
from league away their real beauty and
grandeur break lovingly upon the vision.
Verdure-clad in places, again showing mas
sive bulwarks of rock, and from each height
sloping in graceful undulations to the sea, q
rare and winsome charm, as well as broad
and stalwart majesty, possess them. Wher-
ever one may be within sight of the splendid
masses, it is impossible to cease their con-
temptation. Thus musing on them in the
spirit of geologic conjecture and revery, L
half unconsciously asked my skipper If he
had any idea of their age.
a u
answered promptly. looked st him with
amazement and it nettled him.
ga lee-tle up'ard n a hunderd yearr' he
repeated stolidly, setting his teeth hard upon
his tobacco, and eyeing me askance as If
with initiatory feelings of resentment at my
unaecountable ignorance. "Them ar thlr-
teen rnountings aint thar fur nuthin'. Them
ar thirteen self same mountings riz plum up
outen the bay, the very day they d'elar'd
'pendence to these Yooniterd Ststesi Them
as seed it lived right hereabout."
s'But, eaptain,"I I pleaded, aghast at this
startling revelation, "you know De Monts
and Champlain discovered the island just
two hundred and eighty-four years ago;
named it fL'Isle des Monts Deserts from the
dreary appearance of the tops of those very
mountains; and Briard and Masse, the
French Jesuits, established q mission over
there on the western shore of Somes SoundF
In tones of awful scern my skipper merely
answered.: "Did, did theyi Wall I s'pose
sech scallops comes from schoolin. Fay no
men livin' was in these parts afore my fore
fathers; an them that's dead and doubted"
this with contemptuous grief-"seed with
their own eyes them thirteen mountings hist
up their heads. Howsumdever, theirs no
argerin with sneerersl"
/ changed skipper and craft within thirty
minutes for my educative efforts, for not all
the wealth of Bar Harbor would tempt my
old friend to longer associate with one whose
temerity and iconoclasm SO threatened the
bulwarks of his own patriotic, historic faith.
SHOW.
But the artists, poets or drsamer's era at
Mount Desert is past. To-day Bar Harbor
might properly be called, as was old Trini-
dad in Caba, "Paris ehiquito, the little Par
is of our northeast coast. Ten thousand
rich pleasure-seekers come here annually.
| Each season they leave behind them from
l -, oil
pings of the American noyeau riches are
| here. Hotels are vast caravansaries, splen-
| did in architecture, decoration, regime, cui-
| sine and all the modern cosmopolitan airs
1 that stihe and choke. Shops displaying
goods as rich as may be found In the boule-
wards Of Paris push their CANDY fronts into
| all available places. Villas and summer
Ishouses weary the on-looker with their gor-
| geousness and pretension. Dog-carts, cut
| un1ers barouches, ph9tons, chatses and
| tally-ho coaches, full-liveried ooachmen,
silvere6 harness-chains and those detesta-
BILE denominations, ''crests," are as resplen-
| Boston, New York, Philadelphia and San
Francisco 1t is all simply Newport trans
planted, but lacking Newport's genuine
olden aristocracy and Newports matchless
surf Who has ever seen the latter with
out instinetiyely forgiying that summer So
dom her sickening shams? Let the sea a.
4 tu0 UOHbn OL 0oI SUNNY Cot0 hasO ous
face of ripples, mile from the beach ths
| eye can trace the forming of gentle undula'
| tions, far separate at first, but moving for.
/ ward with increasing height, volume anc
| nearness, and as they advance as gradually
/ and regularly shaping from parallel to con.
| vex lines. Soon these have become tremen
dous waves. Suddenly at the crest of the
foremost one, as if an electric spark had lii
the whole coastwise advancing disc, a spumy
and almost detached crest hovers above
and in quick succession this catches the deli
cate rim upon scores and scores that follow
to mass in mighty surf with millions Of trem
ulous cockades of foam above, which finally
dash and tumble in glorious wantonness owe
the merry waiting bathers beneath.
This is all lacking at Bar Harbor. A dasl
in the sea here would chill the body, as
study of the heartless social arrogance freeze
the soul. This phase of Bar Harbor lif
which has now become predominant and ha
shut out forever the natural sweetness aBt
grandeur of the region, is everywhere will
Us, differing only in degree. To genuin
Americans it is ever disgusting when not up
roariously and calamitously ridiculous. It
grave end 1ugubrious Stiffness has here be
come colossal There are few here whom
merit and true accomplishment have givel
inst place among men, But with most thei