Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-11-05
TAILLESS DRESS COATS.
II IL Now Acknowledged That They
Meet o Small but Long-felt Want.

From the Clothier and Furnisher
Despite ridicule and hostility the curtailed
dress-coat has fought its way into Q vacant
niche In the gentleman's wardrobe, and may
tritely but truly be described az filing q long
felt want. In England the new garment has
been known for some time past as the "Cowes
coat" and in this country it has taken the aris-
tocratic title, the Tuxedo"
Perhaps the thousands who follow in fash
ions wake will become more easily reconciled
to the adoption Of the Tuxedo" when it is un-
derstood that IL is not intended to displace the
swallow-tail as the regnant garment of full
evening dress. On the contrary, its accepta-
ton tends 10 make the Office Of the swallow
tail one of enhanced Formally, by relieving
that much-worn garment of a great deal of the
quasi formal everyday wear and tear to which
it has been subjected Of late years by the more
stringent rules Of society. To the balls, cotil-
Ions, receptions, and weddings, where the
preparations have been on o sumptuous scale,
OF course, the swallow-tail is yet to be worn;
with the swallow-tail the high silk hat will con-
tlnue TO be the proper accompanying tile, and
the prevalent necktie will be Of white lawn
In the summer the Tuxedo coat may be worn
at the informal hotel hops. A black satin neck
tie Is considered most correct with this coat,
and low hat is absolutely required; black
or white low-cut vest is optional. A high silk
hat with Tuxedo coat would be the rankest
kind OF solecism. Neither may the short coat
be worn before 6 p. m, any more than the
swallow-tail. Such breach should provoke
social ostracism.
In those months of the year when it is too
warm to wear top coat Of any description, the
"Cowes' coat will be blessing to the men in
town, who, when the dinner hour is long before
dusk, desire to lounge abroad at pleasure and
unhampered by the conspicuously formal
ensemble which the swallow-tal imparts. At
alrb rv,e~
at the informal call the short coat with the
rolling collar will prove a positive boon. At
the opera the swallow tail will prevail.
The "Cowes" coat, as the name implies, is of
English derivation, and when two seasons back
several Of New York's leadering Anglo-maniac
swells did the round of the clubs in what they
termed the Tuxedo" they had to run cease
less fire of gibes and jeers from their fellow
clubmen.
1t is marvellous what capricious oracle fash
ion is! By turn Of the wheel that no one
perceives, or even knows when it occurred,
save in the near past, the short coat was res
cued from ignominious oblivion, after sporadic
attempts at introduction here and there, and is
inviting the attention of swelldom to-day.
There are good many good things that do
not succeed on their merits, but the short-dress
coat gets there just the same.
few straws will give an indication Of the
way the wind blows, and a number of swells
who are reckOned among the best-dressed men
about town seen doing the rounds o. nights, al
ways attired Of late in the Tuxedo coat, is
pretty good sign of the times. But when the
temporarily enthroned monarch of dudedom
looms triumphant, despite the unfortunate Sar-
atoga episode, and assiduously attends the
theaters in an extremely low-cut white vest,
black satin cravat, black pot hat, and Tuxedo
coat, the decrying multitude Of lesser satellites
must need grow faint with envy and betake
themselves to the tailor for relief
The garment that Mr.. Wall wore was correct
in every respect. It was Of fine invisible
ribbed black worsted material, more clinglike
in its texture than broadcloth The length and
cut was similar to the ordinary sack coat, but
was shaped in to the figure at the back The
coat, OF course, is worn open, has three pockets
without flaps, and the collar is Of silk made on
the shawl or rolling pattern.