Waterbury evening Democrat., 1888-09-19
LEADING PERFUMES.
LIMITED NUMBER OF MATERIALS
 USED IN THEIR PRODUCTION.

1t Is to the Compounder's Skill That We
 Are Indebted for the Majority of Our
 Delicious Popular Scents-A List of
 Materials.
 The ro;e is one of the most va4uable Of une limited series of flowers available to the per- fumer. When dried it is useful in sachets or scented powders; distilled, it yields rose water and the we'll known otto, and sub jected to enfeurage it gives oil, pomade and alcoholate. The variety chiefly used is the hundred leaved Rosa Centifolia, and is grown for commercial purposes most extensively in Turkey, India and in the south of France. The otto of rose is a light yellow or straw colored liquid, possessing in a high degree of concentration the characteristic odor of the flower, and a diffusiveness and persistency that render it of great service to the per fumer.
 OG the ctrine family, consisting of the two great divisions of lemons and oranges, the bitter or Seville orange is the most val uable species to the perfumer. Its flowers yield the otto known the oil of neoroh, or neroly, and by enfeurage a pomade and al- coholate of delightful fragrance. The rind of the riI>e fruit contains useful oil, and the small unripe berries and leaves also fur ulSI OuS i1uOLuel orange or importance IS that known as the Bergamia, from which the oil of bergamot is produced. The common lemon gives an essence having both perfume and flavor; while from she citron is taken the truly delight. ul essence known as the otto of cedrat.
 By enfeurage the modest violet yields an odor which is universally admired for its delicacy and sweetness. The chief violet beds are at Nice, where the plants are bedded ill the shade of orange or acacia groves. Ap- proximations of the scent of the violent are found in the acacia, the orris and in myall- wood, native of Australia. The acacia re- ferred to is small tree or shrub which grows only in southern attitudes, and the flowers, which are yellow and about the size of a large pea, are called cassie flowers. These are treated by enf1eurage. Cassie must not be confounded with caSsia, which is the com mon cinnamon.
 The tuberose is a bulbous plant, first mo- ticed by old writers as the Indian hyacinth. The odor is obtained by enfeurage and is not only favorite in it's pure state, but en- ters into the formation of the most recherche bouquets. France, Italy and Spain contain the chief gardens of the tuberose, although there is no reason why in this industry, as in so many others, California should not enter the competing field.
 The ylang- -ylang tiower of fowers) is the blossom of large tree native in the islands \ of the India archipelago. Its native Tagal \ name is the ih-lang-ihlang, the Malays call \ it kanonga, and to botanists it is known as I Unona odoratissima. The flowers remind ! one somewhat of the locust blossom Their ! color is greenish yellow, and they possess ! an odor resembling a mixture of jasmine and lilac, so powerful that it scents the air for { miles. The ylang- ylang was first discovered ! by chemist at Manila in 1867. 1t Is now ! largely manufactured there and at Singa- pore.
 Lavender, rosemary, and patchouly are all I herbs. The two former are quite we'll known { in this country; the last named is an Indian plant resembling our garden sage. To the \ natives it is known as putchapat, both leaves ! and stem yielding an otto of great strength ! and very peculiar odor.
 ! Of the spice series cloves and cinnamon \ are the only ones that are much used in per ! fumery, and these are chiefly employed in \ soaps. The clove tree is largely cultivated \ in the West Indies and the Malacca Islands; \ while the cinnamon is not the bark of com merce, but comes from smaller tree and has
 milder odor and flavor, with a faint touch ! of nluSkineSs. CaSsia comes from China, the ! true cinnamon from Ceylon.
 Two odorous grasses, natives of India, fur ! nish ottos of extensive usefulness. One is ! lemon grass, having strong resemblance in \ odor to the lemon yerbena, and from it ! nearly all our ''extracts of verbena" and \ "verbena water" are made The other otto
 is citronella, 8 perfume which most persons have made acquaintance with in the so called ! 'honey soap."
 The wood of the sandal tree native of ' the West Indies, gives curious odor, greatly ! admired in Oriental countries and much val ! ued by us. 1t is both used in substance and
 distilled for its otto. Vetivert, or kus-kus, l thread like Indian root, furnishes another
 perfume of the same class sandal, but ! sharper and more approaching floral odors l It Is strong and durable odor that gives it's
 characteristic to the cashmere bouquet
 soap. The otto of vetivert is much higher in
 cost than even that of roses.
 | Bitter almonds, though containing no otto ! in their natural state, yield one by the re- | action of their constituents in the presence
 of water. Thus the still furnishes us the
 almond odor, which, while sickening in itself,
 finds place in minute quantities ill many of
 the finest floral compounds
 Vanilla is the capsule of beautiful creep
 ing plant native in Mexico and South
 America. It is generally from six to ten
 inches in length, about one-fourth of an
 inch in diameter, cylindrical in shape, taper ling toward either end and slightly fiattened.
 The color is dark brown. The interior con-
 tains a sort of pulp filled with little shining
 black seeds. Its flavor and odor are both
 familiar.
 The origin of amSergris was long mys-
 tery, but it is known to be diseased
 secretion of the spermaceti whale. It Is
 found floating on the surface of the sea and
 has an ordor which is extremely unpleasant
 when pure, but which gives nsellowness and
 permaneney to mixtures.
 Civet is dark brown, semi-fuid secretion
 obtained from the civet cat, a native of
 Africa and India It is found in an external
 pouch or receptacle peculiar to this animal
 Its properties are in general similar to ann
 bergris, but it's odor harmoniZes more per
 fectly with floral compounds.
 Musk is also & secretion, and is obtained
 from the musk deer, a pretty little animal
 inhabiting the higher mountain ranges of
 Tonquin, China and Thibet. The musk is
 found in a small pocket or pouch under the
 belly of the deer, and, being cut off by the
 hunters, becomes hard and dry and preserves
 its contents as an unctuous powder of red
 dish brown color Its powerful warm, arC-