Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1888-10-04

sPamles m5at pies, Dut theie were CHICK
ems that we're Is tough as lndIa-rubber
We should have reached our destination
At noon. bat the heavy roads aud the
heavy load on board kept US until 2:J0
J.. NJ
Nv guide WAS e youncster about NJ
mo everything worth seeing for q quar-
ter. II was 80 much cheaper than view
ing European RUNS that his offer was
eagerly accepted. lie first led me TO
the Plaza 1t Was about p. NJ, the hot
test part OF the day, but ! had made mp
my mind 90 edo the town "a every
tourist should but had o secret rcsO-
luton also to hurry through with the
sightseeing and set back 20 Guatemala
and sireet-cars and elcctTic-hght and
zee water But that boy seemed bent
upon earning his quarter Bunning
Gown the centre Of the laza was what
is called tue " Portal or many small
curiosity shops, kept by Indians
10 swiuGle tourists You con Duy an
Antigua "Guipil in one Of those stores
for 81 that you could secure any piece
el.e for $50. bad heard Of small
figures made by the Indians out OF rags,
oud also those made OF rice. initiating
the costumes and tho professions Of tue
country so ! tod my young guide That
+ wanted sOuo of these dolls. 1t was all
right. be sand, oud had twenty eight Of
them and an Indian shirt, too, IN FIVE
minutes. Tie dolls are very shliully
made, especially those Of nee. They
have initiated the bcggar asking
aims, the "mozo - carrying his
load. the dandy bowlng 20 some
imaginary damscl, and many other
ideas are made into rice With uumlstaka-
bic precision. From here we went TO
the old Cathedral Of San francisco,
which, with ITS adjoining monastery,
covered two blocks IN the centre Of the
town Very small portions OF It's roof
are still held ~ place. The earthquake
must have been of terrible force TO have
80 cracked md shattered the heavy TO-
f0ofthick walls. There were many little
inches and secret rooms ia tho monas-
tpry INTO which ! was continually
poKng my cane 10 discover a
hollow sound which would IndI-
cate the existence Of concealed re-
ccasps where the Padres Of old may
have buried treasure. My guide, Joa-
chin, was bright enough 20 discover ny
design. and be said without any prellml-
nary words: It's no use, Senior I've
picked All over these walls myself, AMI /
never found "a cent. noticed one line
Of underground rooms which must have
been dungeons, Judging from their ar-
rangcmaut and construction. There is
heavy grated door and the hole for
passing food to the prisoner. All the
ruins II the churches and large bouscs
indicate the existence Of great wealth M
tlo time Of their erection. Thirty years
ego there was so little silver in the coun-
try that IT was at q premium over
gold ut that time there Was hardly
nuv currency but gold. but 90 day one
may pass a lifetime and never see Il gold
coin. unless exhibited as curiosity M
some show window. Antigua has suffer
cd twice The FIRST OF great catastrophe
took place lOS years ago, whom the city
was almost totally destroyed 10y yibra-
tions OF the earth and lava from tie Nol-
cauo Fuego. The inhabitants partly re-
built H., but fifty years later the city was
again laid low. The second experience
convinced the owners OF real estate that
II was not a good investment 10 put
much money INTO buildings in Antigua,
and those If today do not compare
fsyorably with those of former times.
When We had finished the ruins
and had piucked the ripe oranges aud
peaches from trees growing ON theT
broken walls we passed what is called q
" ccnoccria. brewery or aic-house. !
noticed joachim look at II and then look
at 10 AGAIN. lie said no would take
glass of beer with me IN answer to the
usual question. WANTED to Try iho native
hrcwod made IN Tecpan. not many miles
away. ana I asked mm If he would take
the same. lie smiled, but said he would
take Milwaukee. auG became convinced
of the wisdom of hs choice. The native
article is like root-pecr with a dash Of
VINEGAR u IT, / became quite attached
10 my guido; hc WAS underTzcd for ms
years. but hc had good head and q
quick brain. and he m0de delightful
chance companion, SO J asked HIM 10
join me in carriage ride through tie
suburbs and up 10 the very foot Of the
volcanoes. lie quickly accepted. and
soon We wore resting ON the back seat a.
comfortable carriage behind three gal
Looping horses and anoiey driver, smoking
our native cigars.
That night made arrangements for
an early start for the crater. / wanted
30 go mp and como down in the same
dav. and at 3 the next morning. after
cup Of cofl,e and roll, went 10y car
riace to the foot we began the ascent
of lucro. where exchanging fora mule,
and guide ahead ou foot, We began tie
ascent. Iu,go is little over $4,000
feet above tire sen level but rs Antigua
is 5000 feet IN altitude. our climb WAS
but 1900 feet. The first Wndings ~
the mountain wore not steep. and Icy
degrees one supposes that all the way 70
the summit will be PLAIN, easy sailing
but after travelling for two hours
the top appeared Just as far away rs when
started. Though l began the ascent
al O'Clock II WAS nearly 9 before the
view below impressed me with the great
height of my position. One hour Inter,
having reached very sparse timber, the
trail became 50 steep IN parts that NY
faithful mule had to scramble M an
order not TO slide back hat he was well
shod with toe and heel corks, SO there
was nothing to fear lhe trail is %
switch back until it reaches the tim
her limit. when il winds around the bare
lava cone ami skirts the south side, shut
ting out tle view of Antigua, hut open
ing ont before you the balelm and rub
h3r coast and the Ocenn. The railroad
again appears, looking no more than "a
thread IA the distance as il enters the
town OF Esauiutla and disappears again
in the heavy foliage Of the low country to
reIppcar short distance from san Jose,
where the few buildings and the long
pier uttiug out into the ocean look no
larger than ilyspe,ks. The first glimpse
Of this view isappalhng, and ona Justine
lively and iuvoluptaely draws bach as
il comes into the line OF vision. Though
the city / lad left behind was swelter-
ing under the hot sun my Mister was
now comfort III the high cold
wluda Not long after We drew up at a