The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1888-02-26
CERNAY-LA-VILLE.
Ecaping frem Paris to the Pleasures of a
French Village in the Winter Months.

Correspondence of IL India naDolis Journal.
CERNAY-LA-vILLE, February, l888-Many
Americans would think person wild or cut of
his right mind to leave gay city in mid-wintsr
for a country-place of few hundred inhabitants
away from the railway and night coming
/ Not so here in France, where every now and
then friend disappears for few days. When
he re-appears, we find he has been out in the
country for some pure air. too have "disap-
peared" for several days, coming to my favorite
retreat, Cernay-la-ville. With two friends
boarded train one afternoon at o'clock. Get
ting under way found there heat In
car. but by sitting close together and with
plenty of travelling rugs. we did not suffer from
the cold that has been upon us for the past week.
On we went, getting gimpses of Paris as we
made a circuit around the city; down
past Versailles with its gorgeous
palace and little lake which
the skaters were gliding about past quaint vii
Iages with their old-time thatch-roofed houses
and well kept gardens, until after an hours ride
we came to our station, where we had to leave
the railway Descending from the train, we
found only the depot and one house, and as
there was no conveyance to assist us on our
way we started off on foot over frozen, fat
country for the village of Lavariere, mile
distant. Reaching the auberge we were told
thsre was no diligence that night for CerDay,
but VIC could go to Dampierre about eight miles
further We decided to do this, but first
wanted something to eat Walking in a brac-
ing atmosphere usually wbets the appetite. and
We were ready for anything. "Pouvez-vous,
nous donner quelque chose a mangerT
we asked or the robust looking woman
who came to US from dark corner of
the room. ''Oui, messieurs." as she proceeded
10 name the articles on the bill of fare, which
are always the same in every village. all
seasons Of the year Soupe a poignon, bifseck
aux pommes, fromage. confiture an cafe. Every
well. madame. we will take ALL After she had
left US, We proceeded to take in our surround
ings We had come into a large, low-celing
room, with dark walls on which were hung ad-
vertsements for insurance companies, beer,
summer resorts, and in conspicuous place, q
large notice giving the list of foreign moneys
that will pass in France. Tho floor was Of tiles
over which was thrown light coating of fine sand.
tables with wooden benches for the drinkers of
aDsinthe and vermouth A large, white
stove t s,aoa or porcelain with .nt.r marble s
imperfectly warmed the room From the ceiling
hung the brackets for lamps, but devoid of light
ing capacity. A few rush-bottom chairs, with
out backs, completed the furniture of this place
A beautiful silky-haired dog slept before the
fire, but on hearing voices jumped up and gave
as the only warm welcome we received. From
the looks OF the woman, who cannot understand
our language, and the close watching from
Ger his fur cap, the man. dirty and grisly, evil
IDENTIFY took us for suspicious characters, per
haps German spies. We were never left alone
9 moment, for when the older people left the
room youth of about ten years sprang. like a
Jaek-in-the-box, into seat behind the stove and
followed our every movement. Through an
open door we looked into the store, filed
with every article necessary for coun-
try village, and from time to time q
little bell announced the arrival of customer.
From the other door came the sounds peculiar
TO the culinary department Finally, we were
served on one of the hard tables. and had
scarcely finished our meal when the diligence
arrived that was to carry us to Dampierre.
Wrapped in our furs and blankets we were pre-
pared to enjoy the ride the country. 1t
n fhn
with its covering of frost. Occasionally we
caught glimpse Of the as it broke
through the light clouds that were floating by
The night WAS tranquiI-the crack of our postil-
lions whip, and the jingle of the bells on the
horses, were the only sounds we heard. Once
we passed through village--a village where
lived many people. but all is quiet now, the
houses in ruins. the roofs have fallen In. the
windows without sashes, not person
j. known as the deserted village and it
rests alone the route. After hours ride
we reached Dampierre, where we had to descend
from the diligence. II is picturesque VILLAGE
with it's old chateau and the country seat of of
the members of the Rothscbild family-a quaint
o,d house with moat filled with water about
IT. AS the night was beautiful we decided. to
walk on to our objective point. What a glorious
night IL wasi The air was crisp and
tered the woods through which our path clim bed
upwards, scent OF fresh towers is waited
TO us--we know not from where, nor from what
source-and regales AS we climbed and
mp we finally reached the plateau upon which is
OullL Cernhy we lOoked BACK TO see the valley
and lol IL had disappeared. What was q beauti-
ful fertile country spotted with houses had be-
come TO our eyes large lake. AS far the eye
could reach there seemed be the
unduiatinR water Had some metamorphosis
taken place, or had we fallen asleepl A change
had taken place The valley had disappeared
under the white mist that rises over it at night,
and under the moonbeams gave the appearances
OF an immense body OF water. This phenomenon
Is so common there that the natives call it lie
lac SA-eent 1.-THE lake of silyer). But we could
not wait long to admire It, The hour was late
and we had TO press on or patron Avril would
close ms auoerce After an hours walk
rived there, and in the old familiar room we re-
ceived the hearty welcome and our senses were
made glad on hearing the command: MAKE a
big nre IN the grand chamber and carry up extra
blankets, CHARLES HOLMAN. BLACK