Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-07-28
(Copyrkhted. 1887

pass portion OF each summer on Mount Desert
| Island. about Bar Harbor and Somesvile, and on
Deer Island In glorious Frenchmans and PeLob-
scot Bays II would not be dimcult to estimate
how few OF these ever gave the history and tradi-
| uonary lore of the region q moments thought
Aside from Mount Desert Island, with its 100
square miles OF area, Stave Bartlett, Long, swans,
Little and Great Cranberry, Placentia, Great and
Little Deer. Fox and Marshall islands all OF impor-
tant dimensions there are over 200 lesser islands
varying In appearance and size from the dark-red,
craggy, grewsome reef, to that OF the verdure-
where live from one TO a dozen families OF water
SIDE folk, as there did dozen generations before
them.
Thomas Cole, the humble wall-paper maker OF
Ohio. whose genius was first awakened by a wan
oerlng portrait painter, and who gave the world
InoSe nve masterpieces OF landscape "Course OF
Empire" now In possession OF the New York His
torlca Society, was not only the pioneer In land
scape art but he was the artist pioneer on these
noDle snoIes. church, with equal genius, and
perhaps reader faculty OF acquisition, followed
him. and made the whole world really cognizant
wizard pencil or brush that can ever convey to
human eye an approximation OF even the meanest
OF the SURPRISING effects In shine and shadow, fair
weather and FOG, which your eyes or mine every
where rest upon, when the great bays, hushed
and cleaning like polished silver, sleep beneath
these sort blue skies; when the tides come and
and sea-urchins by ledge, reef and base OF lofty
neadland; or when the mighty ocean comes crested
Dulwarks which mock and baffe every onslaught
WHERE TO STOP.
you come to this spot because 1t is fashionable
you will at once seek Bar Harbor. with its splendid
exactions and aristocratic regime; but II you
come as an artist or as q wanderer, desiring the
you will settle yourself for the summer somewhere
about southwest Harbor, or still farther from the
mindless crowd, on the Porcupine Islands, or In
any one OF the scores Of little fishng villages with
which the smaller islets and contiguous mainland
shores abound Then rest to your hearts content,
safe old skipper in charge who knows every shade
tramp OF Sundays and evenings about the quaint
sleep wherever night nnds you. For you
Will ind here those whose souls not yet cogni-
zant OF guile, and with whom unquestioning hos.
!altn. Then study The reaches OF channel the
black teeth OF ugly lodges, the plumy crests Of
iorbidding reefs Find out all about lobster fish,
ing, canning and shipping. Acquire familiarity
with the fishers OF, ana the seasons for paddock,
make, nallbut, mackerel and cod, and what is done
Watch the wonderful colors change upon the sea.
Note the sunlight bathing the mountain lops
ana the clouds laying the misty puppies between.
FlnQ all The lighthouses ana know the keepers
well. Sail about the mighty headlands and put
the friendly hand OF your goodly acquaintance
upon every one. And above all, get into
the spirit and thought of these sea-
faring men whose superstltions and lore are as
strange book that has never been read. Be with
the sea, and when II as mysteriously disappears
and at all times enjoy their reasons for things
their Judgment upon the fashionable who are
'spllln' the hui kentry with their tavern airs"
their legends OF olden days. their scientific disquf-
sltOnS on wind and weather, their revelation Of
the causes OF coming and going OF foys, and even
their ta.es of how the very mountains Of Mount
Desert came to be set upon their granite bases
Two out or two hundred samples or this lore will
Illustrate what you will acquire.
THE 'BLACK FOG"
comes ALL unawarps-fn lanhirhharo Of 1oaat
When first seen 1t is as but a feathery 1eck
against the horizon. For a time it creeps In from
the sea, seemingly no higher than the lowest
lands edge. In few minutes 1t has swallowed
In moment more the bays, the mountains tine
very hight Is gone; and, wherever you are You
are black statue in a palpable gray STROUD
which hides your hand before you. asked my
Old skipper where 1t came from so suddenly.
"Whar does 1t come from?-whar? Well now!
she Jess draps fur Their Flynn Dutchm'n' TO sail
Now that was the beginning and end of the
whole matter. II you doubt, or argue with, this
sort OF faith and fact, you can never more sail in
mat Shippers boat. SO. too. While yet first ex-
perlencing the smothering sensation OF prlsonment
IN the "B.ack Fog" whose substance, presence
and texture no artist has ever yet been able to
represent on canvas In an instant It will disau-
pear leaving as clear and pellucid an air as ever
0athed the peaks OF Colorado IL is marvellous II
.'Yes, oh, yes. Sun ct her ut one chawV'
In their kindly minds, which open and close like
otcel jaws upon an luea III IL Is one winch mas been
presented by their iOrefathers in way easily &C
countaDle TO their ken, there is no more change
than with the sand-hidden bases OF the pyramids
MOUNT DESERTS CHARMS
Again, mighty geologic and historic fact is
revealed. The chief beauty Of Mount Desert Island
Is In Its mountains. From a little distance they
seem to rise grandly out OF the very blue OF the
sea. The highest, Mount Green, reaches an ele-
walton OF nearly 1000 feet. As you approach the
sunshine flooding their rounded peaks give them
OrOnZpQ metallic AnDearAnCp q looc
away their real beauty and grandeur break
lovingly upon the vision. verdure-clad In places
again showing massive bulwarks OF rock and
from each height sloping In graceful fluctuations
TO the sea, a rare anu winsome charm, as well as
broad and stalwart majesty, possesses them.
Wherever one may be within sight OF the splendid
masses, 1t Is impossible to cease their contempa-
ton. Thus musing on them In the spirit OF
geologic conjecture and revery, half uncOn-
sciously asked my skipper IL he had any idea OF
their age.
"A Iee-tle up'ard' n a hundred year, he an
swered promptly. looked at him with amaze
ment and II nettIed him.
"a lee-tle up'arT n hundred year!" he repeated
stol.dy, setting his teeth hard upon his tobacco
aud cycling me askance as II with mi, ialOry feel.
ingS or resentment at my unaccOuntable tgno-
rance. "Tneln ar thirteen mountings amt thar
fur nuIhin,. Them ar thirteen self-same mount
tngs riz plum up outen the Bay the very day
they d'clard 'Pendence to these Yooniterd States
Them as seed 1t lived right hereabouL"
ling revelation, "you know De Monts and Cham
plain discovered the island just 2S4 years ago:
named IL LISle Qe5 M0ntS Deserts from the
dreary appearance Of the tops or those very noun.
tains; and Briaid aud Masse, the French JesuIs.
established a mission over there on the western
shore OF SOme's SOund?"
In tones OF awful scorn my skipper merely an.
swered: Ibid, did they? Wall s'pO5e Sech seal.
lOps comes from schOOlin. Isay no men Twin
was In these parts afore my fOrefaLhers; an them
that's dead and dOubted"-thts with contemptu-
Gus grier-"seed with their own eyes them thirteen
mount ings hist up their heads Howsumdeyer
theirs no argerin with sneerer5l"
IchangedSkfpper and craft within thirty min
utes for my educative efforts for not all he wealth
OF Bar HarDor would tempt my old friend to longer
associate with one whose temer1ty and icOnOclasIn
50 threatened the bulwarkS OF his own paJriOtic
historic faith.
But the artists, POETS or areamer's era at Mt.
Desert is past. To-day Bar Harb0r might properly
be called, as was old Trinidad In Cuba .Paris Chi
uuiIO," the little Paris OF our northeast coast
Ten thousand rich pleasure seekers come here
annually. Each season they leave behind them
OF the American nopeGu riches are here Hotels
are vast caravapsaries splendid in architecture
decoration, regime, cuisine, and all the modern
cosmopolitan airs that stifle and choke Snops
displaying goods as rich as may be found In the
boulevards OF Paris push their gaudy fronts into
all available places. Villas and summer-houses
weary the onlooker with their gorgeousness and
pretensiOn. DOg-carts, cut-unders, barouches
phaetons, chases, and taly-ho coaches full-live.
red cOachInen, stlvered harnesS-chains and those
detestable abOminationS "cresIs" are as resplen.
dent as upon the great show drives OF Boston
New York, Philadelphia, and San Francisco II "a
all simply Newport transplanted, but lacking
Newpports matchIess SUR. Who has ever Sn1
saen the latter without instfncrfvelv Soru1vt ~