Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-08-25
(Copyri9hted. 1881


ON TIE 81. soaS-wHzxE coloxlsrs Prom NEW
ENGLAND FIRST sErrLED-AF TIE oRANp YAIIs
tcOpyri~htsd. lsss,
Special Correspondsnce Of The EVENING STAB.
81. JOHN. N. b., August 60. 1883.
The stars were Just beginning to mirror in the
unusually placid waters OF the Bay OF Tundy.
when our staunch Nancy Mary. Captain Ballast
commanding, brought Us abreast OF the fine old
city OF St. John, the chief commercial and mari
time city Of Nex Brunswick, 1.-The Liverpool Of
Canada" and, after London, Liverpool, and Glas-
gov, "the fourth port of the British empire"
Passing the bold Negro Head to the LEFT, we crept
along the DARK shores OF Partridge Island lying TO
the right Of the st. John River mouth, which
forms the real harbor. turned sharply TO the loft
sweeping past the beacon light and then slowly
crept up TO the city wharves but little distance
beyond. To the left lay Carleton, with grim Mar
tello Tower on the heights behind. To the right
stood the olden city upon her LOFTY lodges Nearer
the SEA were the pleasant slopes and barracks OF
the military grounds and FAR up the river mouth,
which that truest OF wives ana bravest OF women,
the unfortunate Madame La Tour, 50 grandly de-
tended her home and treasure from the treacher-
lights, the freely lash OF ferries, and the low
water-line OF lights, which traced the circnDg
northwest. high UPON the city's heights shadowy
outlines OF cathedrals, far.reacuing spires and
huge structures taking on added holiness and
lying upon the waters surface. as the great
tide was out. traced cumbrous silhouettes against
Dor lights, tier on tier below, from our point OF
vision, Ike some msghy, mystic fortress maze
brilliant oy Countless tiny Deacons hung upon
dseval victory.
AT 81, JOHN.
Creeping through and between the dark craft OF
the haroor. but little time was given for study Of
this fine night spectacle before our schooner had
ava bn rpl,d nf ft,o s,alexo ax,A
tue Shiny base OF the great piers looming grim and
silent above; and In a twinkllag we had made last
ChInplain landed on ST. johns Day dune 24l
1904 where, on May Is, 1883, the 5000 self-exiIed
'uhited Emiire Loya iists' who cUuid not endure
more congenlal soil by the British fleet ana where,
as tradition oblgIngly cOnfesSes, Was once MenaR-
ives or the ancient Micmacs. and near which the
divine G!ooscap, the abor1gines envoy rTom the
Great Spirit, had his ystic home before remov-
ing his donai To the island OF Grand Manan. All
tnls being lnpressiveiy true, we SET about the
iious ascent OF st. John wharf when the tide Is
out, an affair requiring little bravery and dex-
csms :, anu .n,s oelhg manly accomplished, we
very center OF the night-lght aud brightness or
the pleasant Old town, and secured 4 supper which
~ every detail OF service, cuisine and quaint sur
roundings Was an exact counterpart OF the same
had II been fouad In any one VI tlIe and win
SOME cho houses OF Liverpool or old LONDON itself.
oUIPosTs OF GREAT BRITAIN.
st. John appeals TO the historic and ruminative
and shades brighten and wrinkle her sturdy old
visage. In the formative time when France and
England sought ~ ued hurt, for each other tuiS
SIDE of the sea, stirring days were hers In the
resoiutlODary era she was tue SOrenOuSe OF trans
At.autlc English power, the initiative point from
wnicn sally and sort.e were made, aud those days
left their marx upon her. Sue has thriven upon
war and suffered from reprieve A depot from
whence the greatest stores vi pine have been sent
10 an countries tue savage hotdes from oel.nd the
pines have more Ilan once Idllea reentles,ly upon
her. Sitting AT the very threshold OF mighty
foreign power, for every International dispute She
has been nrst 10 suffer from PATRIOTISM and pllL,ge.
Aud somehow one can trace the CONSEQUENCES OF
much OF tniS in the faces OF the people. They
are as IL were, the GU posts OF Great Britain aler.
for fent or attack eternaIy on ulrd Tor anront or
de,rdctio1, ever ready win ali sorts OF brave ana
repeliant measures ami an hundred Iold more
keenly alive, Tor their very uearness u US 10 pro-
v1ncial and state patriotism Than all the slug tsh
mercenar.es In ali Canada behind her. 1his Inn
presses the visitor deepi, IL may cause a s.nile
oeh.ni your eyes, but you cannot he.p liking tne,n
for tntir good Split and unnecessary downright
p,uck-
DrGNIFIED AND KINDaEARrED PEOPLE
Behind ali this there also lie a rare sturdiness
and ruggedness that show In form, physique and
Carriage. They are splendid people here. There
is certain dignity about every one OF them far
nore striking tian with any English n England.
And what Is Uettsr, they are truly klnihearled
aud po.ile. used ~ know, a quarter OF u century
ago, some OF those grand old hudson Bay Com
pany's actors; and line fellows .nsy were-orave,
cultured, ch.valroaS, gentle, and good. but with
roaring SORT II Way with Chem that su ,gesI The
enhancing Nanitobln Indian summer with Turk.
ing, howiing blizzard element beneath. 1ne,e
are Like tneln. Climate has had 10 do with 1t;
true culture OK brain and Drawn more. they are
near enough TO-, 70 Tue states TO os emdlative;
ity. They nd ah New Brunswick folk
are less pretentious than we; more Tolerant lnan
others OF theft natlon.lity. In all that makes
SOC oiosc distinction these people are lmmea,-
uraely better than Eagllshmen, ID Infinitely less
l should say they had go. rurtner away LON the
England we profess 70 condemn than many Of US
wuose cheeks should lame for our Cockney-
apings that they We're, In moderation, level-head-
edness, clran culture, and In tue ireeiom from
Ieverisd ambitious and v.initie lar IN advance
OF most OF our communities; that they possessed
tue best OF oid-wo.id equipoise and conservatism,
and OF ne~-wOrid vIr,hty; and that Il o. any gooi
fortune or diplomacy or war Their country snoud
hit OF possession, as admirable a class OF peo-
pie As are now Within our iarLuest buundariss.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
The common thought regarding New Brunswick
Is that IL Is a far-away, sterile spot. lis coast
lin IS on the Bay Of Fundy, Northumberland Strait.
the Gull Of 81. Lawrence and the Bay Of Cnaleurs
are frequently bleak, rugged, and ofteo possesses
dreary grandeur Bu, tL- reaches OF It's interior,
excepting OCCASIONAL spaces where the primeval
wilderness OF spruce and pine has not yet been
cleared 70 furnish cuitlvaUle lands, are constant
surprise 10 Gne American who believes the Mohawk
a.lu Cumberland Valleys 10 DE uneQualed wales OF
plenty and peace. In exteuded travel over the
New Brunswick and Inlerco.oniai Railways one
has practical opportunity for Observation OF
country AMI STUDY OF LnOSe W.I0 are SuS. atued by
Il; and anyone With half O disposition 70
fairness must admit that our own coun.
try cannot anywhere show naer farms or
more bright and prosperous villages the man
ner, motive, conversation, and characteristics OF
naive passengers, travenng between interior set
Elements and towns, tell much as statistics
The lace OF this nne province, a whole Is nilru
with interesting pictures OF thrllt ampnl ude con.
tent Englishinen, ScotchInen, and irisuinen seem
TO have a,similated and merged into another race
re aiming the best Qualities OF each. The farming
population as class average well Is, or better
Than, Our own In point OF intei. ence ana certain
adm rabIe quality VI not unpleasant as,ertiveness
and Seli-renance; and In many secllonS, like the
cenlral vestern, southern, and southeastern val
leys, the beauty OF villages, shaded highways and
outlying farms cannot be surpassed IN the states
or In any part OF garden-like England.
ON THE ST. JOHN RIVER
All this Will especially come to you as q sur.
prising revelation II you Will pass but one day
upon the s.. John River between the cities OF St
John and Fredericton; and ii you have, as did.
tae added pleasure Of lazy sail IN q spanking
little craft 50 trim that all envy who behold you
are ready 10 aScriDe 10 this PORTION OF Old Acadia
all winsome deiyhts Al st. Johu itself the falls
Or rapids, OF the river, which at nigh tide are
sufficiently covered Tor the passage Oh any vessel
AZ low tide as nne sight Us one would wish 70
BEE. Bears Head. q splendid promontory, at once
comes In view ABOVE. shortly Grand bay Uhe
French In 1898 gave the entire stream the name
La kiviere de Ia Grand Baie) Is entered, and the
lesser arm, South Bay, sweeps down TO the SOUTH
w In ttpa vtoro