Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1888-03-23

1t works wel-in fact, | recommend the
process, especially when your ris-d-ris are
fresh young ladies or intelligent, witty
danes We force our host TO sit reluctant
ly at the head Of the table. Opposite me
is bright American young woman, wife
of the missionary a true type Of the Yer
mont school ma practical doing her
housework, yet lady, such as you find
hundreds of times in every New England
village. There are eight courses, pea soup,
fish salad, stews, turkey, claret and lemon
ade, five dishes of sweets, fruit and coffee,
my notes say but remember but little
of the material paVt Of the feast. We are
served by the son of our host and an army
Of natives The novelty of the scene has
struck me my appetite is not equal to the
amount Of food placed before US.
When we return to the large room we
find a number Of strangers, and learn that
there are to be dances by the professional
women Of the country. -Four of them sit
cross legged on the floor carpet, with as
many musicians, whose instruments are
most primitive. Two of them begin to
dance-a slow movement OF the feet and
hips very monotonous. The two next are
more agile twist and wrthe themselves
into all sorts Of postures. Luckily they are
wrapped in long, flowing draperies. 1t
may be attractive to the natives it is not
to us. Finally the most excited Of the two
places a bottle holding lighted candle upon
her head, and rolls herself round on the
carpet, holding the light in perfect equilib-
rum and renewing the movements of her
body. 1t requires certainly great practice
to do all that, but the whole performance
is much tanner than anticipated.
| have inquired if we ought to pay for
our entertainment | am told our host
would be offended if we spoke of it. We
retire at eleven o'clock. The moon shines
on the Nile we resume our single file with
lanterns; whole population accompanies
us we backshish those who have waited
on us during the evening.
March ,. Among the guests we have
met two American ladies from Milwaukee,
who travel in dehabeah. We met them a
year ago in Algiers, and renew a pleasant
acquaintance. They have been as far as
the second cataract Of the Nile for that
they have been obliged to wait seven days
at Assouan for a favorable strong wind and
then two or three hundred men have been
necessary TO pull their boat up the rapids
The boat belongs 20 a Cairo pasha (high Of
ficer or governor who on account of the
rental he receives $3.50 month, has agreed
to take the boat up TO the first cataract. All
he does is to write his friend the Egyptian
governor Of Assouan, who presses in the
natives as if it were government service
what isciled 'corvte, or obligatory work
10y the country people The ladies have a
Swiss courier, maid, and IA Syrian drago-
man who has agreed 10 feed the party for
SO a day. The boat rental includes the
crew, composed of twelve rowers or sailors
their reis or captain, cooks, boys, man
who does nothing but sing while the men
row. valet for the adies-a small world
Such travelling is costly and slow our
friends have been nearly three months on
the Nile, and have fully satisfied their crav-
ing for it.
We have dined them, and they dine us
What We ate and drank memory has for
gotten it is not the meat, but the mental
feast, which is remembered Cultivated
and refined ladies are the most enchanting
creatures that mortals may meet so we
enjoy their society. The boat is decorated
with Venetian lanterns and palm branches
guns and fireworks are fired to celebrate
our presence; it is grand fantasia or
rejoicing, as the natives call it. ANY good
time is a fantasia The boatmen sit on
the lower deck and sing most Of the even
ing Their leader is the soloist, they form
the chorus. Their songs are all on minor
key, sad, and relieved only by shout from
time to time. The Syrian dragoman dances
10y himself: a man dancing alone is not at
tractive. 1t is too cold for an invalid to
stay on the upper deck, and am obliged to
60 inside. 1t is so every night-a draw back
on the Nile. The ladies' relate some Of their
adventures. Another drawback is their
dragoman, who drinks and often gives hq
or to the boatmen. Tonight the maid dis
covers that they are already half drunk ;
the bottles not yet empty are thrown over
board.
Two steamers have arrived, and many of
our travelling friends are going to leave.
We will miss them greatly; acquaintance
ripen rapidly into friendships when you
partake of the same roughness and dirt.