Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1888-07-25
THE WHITE CzAR,s LAND.
An American Travellers Impressions
of Russia

allied upon some acquaintance iOt II
rormati0n on the subject was 70 lnVes-
-gate l was told that my trip WouIu
certainly be one OF great pleasure and
Iunrane delight; that the stories con-
rerninr the despotism in Russia were
faIse. that 1 need have no fear or dun
yaon horrors and Siberia, and that L
shouId proceed with the same deIlDer-
alton and uninterruption l would
travers any other portion OF the con-
tinent. At London my English friends /
looked aghaSt, and declared that tooA /
my life in my hands when l entereu
Russia, and demonstrated against II !
The English know more OF the country,
the customs and the alleged Laws,
find. than the Americans but DelhS
more excitable and preJudiced, they are
less likely to DO justice 10 the subject
The English have said anu done 50
much against Russia that, as general
rule, they do not receive the lew CIVIL
ties and privileges granted strangers.
l Thought il quite exacting to have
nv passport vised by the Russian min
isier Mt Washington, or the consul at
the uoint where | entered the country,
before I could see Russian soil, when
passport. plain and simple, Is required
iu no other country man visits IN al
Europe; but when l learned that even
the natives Of Russia must take out
pIssport every year and have II regular
iv yisad bv the local offices before they
are exempt from contempt OF the EN-
r.aror I concluded that strangers were
Cuit. rs we'll favored as the cars own
subjects. The object in requiring na-
tiyes TO have passports Is revenue,
while aliens are put to this trouble anu
expense for the purpose OF lnuuClhS
them 10 stav out of Russia. All Rus-
slams must be uaturaliZed If they re-
main In the country, and their pass
ports. which cost them ten roubles
wear IabOut S4.JO,J is evidence OF their
naturalization
At the frontier the stranger encoun-
ters little in the forms different from
other countries. The modes Of inspect
ing baggage ana wIthstandlng personal
scrutiny do not vary greatly from the
usual. But rs everything IN tuSsla Is
distinctly Russian, and therefore eN-
CeedIugly strange, the most experiences
traveller is possessed OF = sense Oh CoA-
Cern, if not fear. The through trains
from Vienna. Berlin and other popular
points of departure for Russla land one
on the frontier at night. The place IS
Russian officers, big, bruly fellows,
with svarthy, unmtelligent faces cover
ed with long, flowing boards, and all
dressed in the most elaborate uniforms.
There Is a clauking of swords, rattle
of SPURS. a din of voices and rushing
hither and thither that Is appalling.
Iimid women travelling alone have
been overcome with fear or lost their
heads in this hustle.
The geudlrme in charge IS the first
officer who approaches the lncomer-
This is the highest ranking military Of
Gclal. and lie takes up the passports
He is arrayed like Napoleon-a broad
topped cap Of red, white and BLACK;
dark green frock coat, trimmed with |
white and decked with brass epaH.etS
weighing pounds; huge belt ana
sword, which Is hung 10 strike the
ground at every step anu rattle IKE
musketrv, pautaIOous with deep white
strira and tucked in knee top boots;
spurs of enormous proportions, ana u
revolver or sufficient size to gun for
Ouffalo. The passports and gendarme
disappear in the direction OF the office /
or tia Russian consul, where the docu-
ments are examined.
On the heels of this diplomatic Of
ficer comes the customs l1Cheys, who,
without ceremony, OF invitation, pick /
up the saChels. bagS -.i bundles, eN-
claim in Russian, -e-tIstOm housed" |
and put out. The traveller follows.
He finds his trunks already IN the
counters inside the station, and If they
are unlocked they are open and the co4l-
teuts are being dumped on the door.
The terror 10 the Russian government
Is printed matter. Every newspaper,
e'gguIur or book found is taken out and
sent 30 the gcudarme and the consul.
IL anything about free government,
free schools, or other free institutions,
criticism of Russia or her form of gov
eminent is found it Is retained; and
should 1t appear among the possibilities
that the bearer has any design upon she
Russian way Of doing things he OF she
is detained for examination. It does
not appear in history or tradition that
persons detained have ever proven
their missions clear. They ysImply have
been heard Of no more.
Trains entering or emerging from
Russia do not pretend TO respect their
time card, for the reason that they are
often detained on the frOnties. Two
hours are always taken. however, being
the time required for examining bag
gage and passports, long or short. On
this occasion the train was light and
the baggage was soon inspected. But
the passengers were not permitted TO re-
sumo their place in the train. As soon
as they escaped the customs officers
they were led into the adjoining restau-
rant, men, women and children, where
were all classes of people in every condi-
ttOu. All outer doors were locked
and We're guarded by officers. Timid
1AliRnfa yt-,ptar, bAx-aral ~,
and waited for the end Of the two hours,
while half intoxicated Russians crowd
ed about, smoking nasty cigars or
drinking steammg tea ut the tables.
In all the multitude of Greeks, Stays,
PerSlanS, Swedes Russians, Germans,
not an English voice was heard; and
seldom did one see man who could in
terpret even sign. The women were
more ready and bright and OWNED the
wishes of travellers more readily.
Finally u Russian rushed like mad
from the station and began ringing a
bell. There was commOtiOn inside.
The bell ringer moved up and down the
long platform and made much unneces-
s1ry noise. The doors were unlocked
and the passengers passed out, an of.
ficer being ready TO see that each parcel
bore the stamp of the custom house.
An hour and 4 half of unnecessary, dis
agreeable waiting made one appreciate
the atmosphere chilly even in August.
just before the train started jingle OF
spurs and Sabers was heard and two
gendarmes appeared. They entered
the carriages and handed out the pas.
sengers- Each passport bore a simple
and short signature-that of the consul
or goyernOr-and the seal Of the officer.
Two or three passengers did not re-
ceive their passports because the docu-
ments were not vised and they were OBJ
hged TO remain and explain. As the
train rolled on from the frontier to.
ward Warsaw and st. Petersburg the
proverb, The gates of Russia are
wide TO those who enter, but narrow
TO those who go out" fingered in my
mind.
Wood rs Stsel.-ExperInen have
recently been made In Ohio which show