, 1888-10-25
NEW STYLES FOR WOMEN.
English and French Designers
Agree on Drapery.
or Reception wesr.-RussIan Cioaks
New JeweIry.

anu EnQllsn styles. frencn D0dlCeS art
short and lew in the darts, and generally
draped in front, or finished with a vest OF
stimulation of vest. English bodices, on
the contrary, are long. the darts are
pushed up as far as the figure of the
wearer will allow, and are much palmer
tEan the French waist. French designers
depend upon their prestige as the former
dictators of fashion. Their fashions are
more picturesque but less practical than
the fa'hio of English tailors. English
styles will continue to be adopted for gen.
eral use by wel-dressed women. and the
short.walsted Empire gowns and Direto-
rie dress will be worn IN the house and tor
elaborate dress.
English and French designers agree on
one point: draperies are simple---indeed
some gowns dispense with all drapery and
depend entirely on embroideries and en-
bossed and applique trimmings for effect
A soft woolen house.gown in pale dull
empire green Is made with a straight
skirt of wool laid over an underskirt of
silk. which does not show, but merely
serves to support the upper skirt. The
front and side breadths Of this dress are
embroidered in gold thread and white and
pale olive green silks to the depth Of one.
third of the skirt, falling to the foot of
the supporting skirt in a deep fringe of
gold and dull green The straight dra-
peries at the back are surmounted by
short bouffant piece, which is attached to
the jacket bodice. The fronts of
the. Jackets are pointed and EN-
broidered round the edge, and fall
apart, showing close.fttiug vest of
pleated cashmere, fastened by pointed
girdle of green velvet at the waist, and
turned back in velvet revers over a harrow
chemisette of white Grape. A gown of
| fine smooth.faced ladies' cloth, now in
special demand. was shown recently at a
large importing house, and will furnish a
simple, graceful model for gown to be
worn In the house, for the street, or under
the new long wraps, which require sim
pie dress beneath them. This gown was
dark shade of terra.cotta, the drapery
reached to the bottom of the underskirt
and completely concealed it, except in a
narrow line ON the left side where it was
slashed to the waist, and held together by
passementerie loops of heavy cords. In
this dress the line Of the underskirt shown
was pale robin-egg satin, in strong con-
trast to the dark red cloth which composed
the gown. The bodice was Tapped diagon-
ally across the front, caught by loops of
possementerie cord, ana showed on one
side Of the vest of blue satin laid in fine
pleats.
A stylish gown in that dark shade of
gray known as ''old silver is made with
plain long skirt laid In single box pleats,
separated by wide space In front. and
finished with full, straight draperies at
the back. The short square Russian
jackt of cloth opens over pointed vest.
which fits smoothly to the figure and is
ornamented with an applique embroidery
of gray velvet, laid ON with beads of dark
ox,dised steel,
The most elegant gowns for church or
reception wear will probably be made in
some notifications of the Directoire styles.
These dresses demand elegance of material
and simplicity of style. The lines of
drapery, when there are any, are from the
waist in classic effect. Hanging scarfs
and straight effects, which add to the
height IF the figure, ard always aimed at
In these garments. Full ruches of
bands are extensively used on
Directoire gowns. The heavy mattalasse
goods, velvets and heavy brocatelle effects
in brocaded silks are made up In Direc-
toire styles, over skirts of cashmere EN-
broidered wool or plain heavy silk or vel
vet. A dark blue.green amure-royal silk,
figured with large black raised figure of
pine cones in mattalasse effect is made in
u straight Directoire polonaise, with large
square pocket-haps of black velvet at the
sides. A band Of feather trimming in
black and green to match the dress trims
the neck of the polonaise, the sleeve at the
wrist, the bottom of the plain black velvet
underskirt, and pusses up the side to the
waist line.
Another polonaise of black velvet, from
famous Partisan dress maker, is entirely
plain at the back and on the sides and
opens in front to display skirt of white
cloth, embroidered to the waist in cash.
mere colors and pattern and trimmed
from the bottom with deep points of
brown otter fur. This polonaise is turned
back in square revers. which are faced
with cloth embroidered in colOrs and dis
play a short pointed vest of white wool,
similarly embroidered.
Russian styles are noteworthy among
the wraps and COWS sent over this season
from Paris. There are many gowns made
with jackets int the short square shape of
the Russlon jacket; and Russian cloaks
with double fronts are extensively inn
ported for elaborate carriage wear and for
general use. A long cloak in Russian
shown in a cloth figured in shades of steel
blue in a Moorish pattern of ornamented
cIescents. The under front of this cloak
is of dark blue plush. An elaborate car
riage cloak in this shape composed of gol-
den brown plush and white cloth, and is a
mass of elittering Turkish embroidery in
old Byzantine colors; the work resembling
in effect the gay India embroideries of the
Deccan. Another cloak of red mattalasse,
brocaded with black velvet. is made with
an under front of black velvet striped with
wide fiat gold gimps, like those seen in
Turkish and Bysantine work. and the
cloak is finished with heavy trim mings of
black Russian bear.
Some of the most beautiful and comfort
able wraps in this shape are Of soft figured
Vicuna wool, an exquisitely light, warm
cloth that is manufactured In neutral COL
ors. Gray Vicuna cloaks are trimmed
with gray velvet. steel embroideries and
curly borders of Persian lamb.
A charming Russian evening gown for
a young lady is of white lace and crimson