The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-03-03

suits and costumes. Black chip hats are
taking the place of the large velvet hats
with plumes, which have been a distin-
gushing feature during the winter, while
black lace, with velvet for trimming, or as
a mixture, has never entirely disappeared.
But now charming new bonnets appear,
made of black esprit fine dotted net,
which cover and are blended with color,
celery green, canary yellow, she'll pink,
grey, orange or lilac, which last is used in
stead OF hellotrOpe, and is lovely with black.
OF course, the trimming is in delicate
shades of the color, and consists of ribbon
and flowers, lilacs, white and colored, prim-
roses, cOwslips, mustard, crepes, lilies of the
valley and the like
THE HOUSE JACKET
has become an established fact which de-
serves more than passing mention. Its con-
Venience not only renders it acceptable; it
has given it permanence. In different shapes
and forms it has been a factor for the past
ten years, and less definitely for many years
before that; and it also enters largely into
the national dress of women of other coun-
tries, from whom we have borrowed ideas
to vary its forms.
The present most popular styles are the
Norfolk" plated waist and the habit
basque; and both have grown in favor until
they have become almost universal, as
much used by fashionable as questionable
people, and by the poor as well as the rich
The Norfolk jacket is derived, indeed from
fishing and working people. 1t was first
used for seaside and travelling dresses. 1t is
used for these purposes still, but also for
many others. 1t has been shaped, modified,
fitted and adapted to all kinds of service
able dress. 1t is now made independently
and sold at women's furnishing stores, and
is perhaps the most useful of all forms of
waist or jacket; for it is adapted to all ma
terials, except the richest, and to outdoor as
well as indoor wear.
Very stout figures should avoid it, but all
young and moderately slender girls and
women rejoice in it. 1t is a boon to the
school teacher as well as the school girl, to
excursionists, to tourists, and is as well worn
at the watering place as in the farm house
and country village. Neatly belted in, it is
trim wrap as well as bodice, and serves
to hold handkerchief. closed fan, change
purse or any little implements work or
pleasure may require. In soft silk, PONCE,
cotton, silk or wool, light colors or dark, it
is equally at home; the cut upon the Shout
der, the fit under the arms and the finish
making the most important difference be-
tween the ordinary and the superior, far
more than that of material.
But the Norfolk jacket is always in
formal and young. The habit basque is
more ceremonious, and suits older and
stouter women, though it may also be worn
by the young and slender. Like the Norfolk
Jacket, it is made en- suite and also indie
pendently; but it is suited to richer mate
rails, and can be made more elegant by the
smoothness of the fit, the introduction of
the lace or crepe vest, the addition of en-
broidery, beading or passementerie, dreSsy
and expensive additions which would be out
of place on a Norfolk jacket. Velvet, plush,
satin, corded wool, velvetine, small figured
brocades in blended or self colors, all make
good, independent basques A good deal
depends upon color to lmpart distinction
when the fabric is not rich. As for example
choose for wool a golden brown, currant
red or old gold shade; the positive effect of
color gives character to wool materials.
1t is little curious that more effort is
not made to supply the demand for indie
pendent waists and jackets. Jerseys can be
obtained in great variety; but only well
rounded and finely formed figures can wear
the Jersey; and while there are excellent
reasons for not making up basques as gen.
eral stock, which need to be fitted, there
are many kinds of gathered and plated
waists, which in two or three sizes would
fit everybody, are easily made and could be
sold at moderate prices.
NEW IDEAS.
future and anticipate the seasons, especially
those of spring and summer, because so
many of the best and standard fabrics re-
appear year after year and the changes are
simply matters of detail, hardly recogniz-
able except by those who closely follow
successive developments in design and pro-
duction The plain and mixed wool for
suits. the Scotch zephyr ginghams, the
China silks and pongees, the linen lawns,
the printed India silks, which are a speciality
and only come in seven-yard lengths, the
printed cottons and white, worked cam
brics all these, together with the plain,
black silks, surahs black and colored, print
ed wool delaines called ''challies,n real
challies now known as 'Bengaline," and
the family of mohairs, beige, alpaca and
the like are as regularly put forth as spring
leaves and blossoms and they meet every
real want. The changes in them are, as be-
fore remarked, mere matters of detail.
This year the new spring woods show
very large checks and plaits; many of them
impossible to any but very tall women. The
ginghams embroidered and open worked eff
fects, the China silks, very quaint designs and
old colors, yellows and browns and old rose,
green and black, white and China blue, in pat
terms which seem to have been copied from
old wares and vases. The "Chalies" repeat
the designs which had such a success in
cheese cloth last summer, and the Benga-
line, viii CHI is fine mixture of silk and
wool. appears in modest checks and dainty
colors, with little stripe. The newest SUI
rahs show squares in two close shades of
one color, green, Gobelin blue, golden
brown, gray, stone color and others, in
Guiding very pretty petunia shade, The
squares are marked off by almost invisible
lines of contrasting color; pale blue and
olive, rose pink on dark green, white on
lighter green, or gray and yellow Oh golden
brown. This color reappears as lining to
the interior edge of the basque and other
parts of the costume, and as small, folded
and pointed vest.
Plain silks and surahs are made up
with pinked out edges, the contrasting color
put between; a revival of the pretty, flow
or like effects of some years ago, but the
draperies are longer, more graceful now
than they were then, and the cut follows
more naturally the lines of the form.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There is a great deal of black used this
season and particularly very new combina-
tions of black as trimming upon color. Black
ribbon bows and sashes are put upon pink,
green and Gobelin blue cotton dresses of
ane bingham or chambray; and with a
large hat OF black chip, with a spray or
bunch of flowers at the side repeating the
colors look really distinguished.
Black MORE is the fashionable combina-
ton with grenadine and fine wool; and it is
very effective, particularly when enhanced
by showers of cut jet In all the best