Wichita eagle., 1888-06-06
vANoERBlLr,s MAJOR coMo.
His Theory of Dining as a Fine Art-The
Advantage He Claims:

Joseph Dugniol, the cook to whom it is
said Mr.. w + Vanderbilt is 10 give So.
600 year, is a well built little man only
about five feet tail. He was born in Biz
mingham, England. He looks like an
Englishman, and speaks the language
with a strong cocknex accent, and he has
an Englishman's love for boxing, and uses
the slang of the ring. His parents, he
says, were French.
IF 1 were rich enough not to have to
work." he said, 81 should still do my
business for the love of it. / am an
artist, and I have invented new school
Of dining. Because man is rich he can
not eat more than poor man, and yet the
idea of fine dinner has been to give a
great number of courses. 1t is a mistake.
When a man has eaten his oysters, his
soup, his entrees, his fish, what chance
has he to enjoy his mutton or fowl?
When he has eaten all, his stomach is
so.h and he raised his hat with both
hands slowly above his head to indicate
the effect of the fullness.
81 make him want to eat. First he
must be hungry, and then I put things
before him so that he wants them. If
want him to eat oranges, for instance, l
offer them to his neighbor. He sees them
and asks for them"
He comes from the Maison Paillard, in
the Chaussee d Antin. ''It is only little
place, Z" he said, with only sixteen tables
When l went there the business was all
run down. built it up by treating each
person as if he were my guest, and study
ing his tastes''
The little director is an autocrat AT the
table. He does not let his guests have
whatever they like, for fear it may clog
their appetites II make them ask for
things and keep them waiting. Suppose
have served dinner like this today: A
soup, some fish, and woodcock, with
coffee and fruit. Tomorrow my customer
asks for woodcock. i am sorry, sir, but
l cannot prepare it, But in day or two
he will ask for it again, and then let him
have it. If l let him tire Of anything,
then my art would be gone"
A great advantage which Mr.. Dugniol
claims for his system is that it leaves him
so much greater variety of food to offer on
different days Suppose, he said, 81
cook everything that is to be had for one
great dinner, what is there for to-mor-
row?n
1t is not to be supposed from this Ian
guage that Joseph is going to cook any
thing with his own hands. He does not
even profess to be able to do this, although
his father was a restaurateur and Joseph
grew up in the business.
II can cook many things" he said,
land l can carve as few men can, but l
can tell the cook how to prepare his food
and warn him if he has failed to secure
the DrODer fayor'
1t may be interesting to know how
Joseph will serve woodcock to Mr.. Van
derbilt 1t will be cooked only ten min
utes before it is brought on the table. Il
will bring it ON while the fish is being
eaten, and l have an alcohol brasier on
the table. 1t has sauce OF red wine and
gravy in it. | carve the bird and put all
the bones and back into the sauce. The
odor and appearance of the bird eXcites
the appetite. 1t takes twenty-five min
utes to cook woodcock. The bird has
only been cooked ten minutes when
carve it. Now l send the meat back to
the oven for fifteen minutes, and the back
and the bones, in which the richest flavor
is found, arc left to stew. When the meat
comes back it is ON q hot plate, and l
strain the rich sauce over it. New York