Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-03-31
IN NEIGBBORING ISLES.
scenes and Customs I'm Picturesque
Cuban Villages.

SuUSAu vhAukeNs
PECULIAR CHARACTERISTICS OF THE INHABIrANTs-
ENTHRALLKD BY SCENE, SCENT AND SOUND
BEAUTIFUL woMEN-HAr FACToRIEs IN CUBAN
HOMES.
SAN FRANCISCO DE PAULA, March &C. 1883.
cuban villages or pueblos have always inter-
ested me deeply. They are Of little importance as
we measure things There is nothing about them
In architecture or human activities to make them
worthy Of account. They are seldom populous
and are never busy. In them and between them
enterprise. rivalry, aspiration, are unknown. But
on this great earth are not other spots full of
simplicity and enOrtless rest
There are just enough people In them to make
human presence an agreeable consciousness.
There Is never any labor done In any way that
tires. Nobody hurr1es. There is no fretting or
tuning about anything. No one is supposed to be
In haste. Nor could any such motion ever come to
surprise and annoy the mind. Every animate or
nanfmate object seems at rest If you desire to set
Cuban village in an uproar OF Indignant won
derment, you have only to hint of doing or OF de-
string something done quickly. Even the winds
onaL piS , move IN SOFT and soothing breezes eIo
subdued notes as If half asleep. Universal siesta
rests upon everything. The very air wings mar
cotlc, and pulses balm, to the sense and SOUL De-
spite your own contempt for cuban hamilton, ar
ter little your best efforts are overcome: you
yield to the insensible sirens OF scene and scent
and sound; and the enthrallment possesses you
wholly.
TYPICAL VILLAGE.
Not one OF these cuban villages ever know an
American tourist. In that fact lies Infinite charm:
for where that all-discoverng Individual has not
been, are land and people all ones own for enjoy
ment and study. reltshed this reflection keenly
as my companion, kindly old don, and myself
rode slowly from the winding mountain cazada
Into this wtnSOme little village OF San Francisco
de Paula, romantic in situation and priced for
beautiful women and good bread both worth
travelling distance in any country TO enjoy.
The village nestleS within a narrow gOrge-the
main street being formed by the calZada Itself
and then truantly struggles either side to a
cockpit on the one height and to queer old
church on the other. But down below along the
street and about the ways aud paths between the
houses, are bowers OF roses, slashing fountains
and pretty girls nnumerabe. Inf seemed a VERY
hiding-place Tor these Cuban beauties, and as we
turned our ponies over TO a stout negress at the
restIul Inn the landlord, the don, and myself
seemed the only male portion Of the population.
REFRESHMENT.
The don remarked upon the fact dryy indeed
in pleasant prophecy, as our landlord informed Us
that baths were in waiting. This delicious treat
after hot and dusty ride upon the calzada was
taken In baths hewn out OF solid stone IN the pre-
elpltouS rock behind the inn, and water from ever
living springs splashed and showered upon US
confectionery and BAKERY Combined. and !, "a
here the celebrated pan de Paula or Paula bread
so noted throughout cuba, is made. A delightful
little breakfast was served. Among the dishes
were aJaco, the national cuban dish OF meats and
vegetables, which, told In the fewest English
words, would be known as Cuban all sorts: nan de
cascade cascade bread, made OF the roots of the
yucca grated, formed with milk into thin paste
patties On paste and, unfavored, dried quickly,
though not baked, In ovens; and cuban country
cheese, similar to the German schmeerkase or our
own cottage cheese, but compressed, partially
Cubans add strip to this cheese as a dressing.
butter.
sAUNTERINa ABOUT THE LOVELY PLACE,
we climbed the mountain to inspect the old
church, which, in this peculiar atmosphere seemed
to us from the valley below tremendous structure
looming against the steel-blue sky, but which on
approaching dwtndled to little old pile OF cen
tury-eaten stone, with no windows with but one
door, and with chime OF bells no bigger than the
bells our American cows rattle half-muff1ed In
clover at the flies In the meadows But the climb
ing showed US where there were more enhancing
home this village nest was like bit of Old Dortc
Salem set in frame OF honeysuckle. Jasmine and
I rose and every pillared portlco wide and big as
student OF simple toll and glowing beauty. Here,
too, was delightful surprise in the pleasing dis
covery that the delicate beauty, the Cuban woman.
could do something in the nature OF work These
were the sweetest OF Cubans and every one was as
lazily busy as pretty. And what bright, engaging
admiration as plain In our eyes and loiterings as
they all showed US In their own eyes and bushes
they were glad that they pleased.
sENORITAS.
You must know we were chivalrous caballeros
the don and myself, and that no good women are
Indifferent to true interest and admiration In any
country. SO 1t was with no rudeness on our part
nor alarm on theirs that we soon found a group
OF some twenty SenOrttas and nlfias, presided over
by two or three pleasant yet grave and Arious
sehoras, picturesquely bestowed upon asgreat
nower.emoowered portico, singing dainty snaIches
harmless Jests. and full as the vines Of blossoms OF
the alert aggressions and repulses OF budding
womanhOod. San Francisco de Paula's homes are
all dlminutive factories OF the COOL hight hat
known In our country as the SPAIN leaf" the
same oe.ag Leaning aftiGie Oh export from Iuca-
are only Sent the Inferior grades; and here these
fair maids, In setting OF architecture, or quaint
given US on the operate stage, were making their
dainty and deft ringers ny marvelG usly. The
ninas or little girls, split the leaf OF the already
bleached palma guiana, Or fan palm, with thin
bladed Knives each little one true and dexterOus
In her work and rarely making q wrong stroke or
destroying slender strand.
MAKING HATE
We set the entire cOterie In lutter by contract
ing for the making Of each one Of US Q hat, the
decker being gravely conducted BY the don with
one Of the discreet sefloras; and no two men
were ever put in pleasanter waiting than we
a1nng those two sunny cuban hours With the
we must needs be made as comfortable as royal
guests ana while the stately don was placed in q
Bic hands were already weaving the snoW-white
Strands OF bis sombrero. without any ado must
a. sxang 9y the
nngers nuttsred among the rustling palm-strands
with the rapidity Of the swtt coming and going Of
the bluAhee upon the perfect face The old senOras
0eamed; the young sahontas kept up an under.
tone Of gay sa!liee. interspersed with gurgles Of
laughter; the little ntfias gtgRed hyster1cally; Q
crowd q mt negroes looked on grtnningly; the
oon rocked benlgnly TO and mo IN his capacious
chair; swung ietsarely in my plated hammock;
and pledge you that. looking 1axly through our
curling cigarette smoke as the old senoras
smoked with us, saw such romance and satua-
tons In the real scene and surroundings OF this
one Cuban porttco a. the comedy opera makers
might utilize with exquisite pleasure and delight.
AMoTHE1 MOST LOVELY mot
u San jose Dc Las Vegas, over where the Iron Or
Jaruco Mountains begin, and thence wind north
westerly TO the sleepy little port Of Jaruco on the
gut The scenery here is grand beyond descrip-
uon, while the reaches Of country, a seen from
many OF the heghts furnish studies OF the interior
OF cuba splendid and complete In character ana
variety. Inc avrA or gap In the Jaruco u Q ma
t0ral opening with magnificent precipttous sides
upward OF LOCO feet In height the broad, white
calZa02 stretching from th16 pOin6 vii.