New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-04-08
DRESS IN PARIS.
EMPIRE AND RUSSIAN STYLES REIGN.
ROUND WAISTS AND sAsHES-QUANTITIES OF
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES BoNNETs.

STYLES. As tournures are made much smaller. general
outlines graceful Some innovators arc Try
Ing dispense with them altogether but with sue
for the eye must gradually become accustomed to
seeing the human form without imitation Hardly any
hustle is worn, and the in the skirts made
hardly perceptble AS height, hats and bonnets arc
now made much more proportionato with the contour
Of the face with the exception Of evening hats how
ever they are still trimmed rather high In 'front.' but
the foundations themselves made much smaller
Description Of styles Is made easy this year by the
defniteness of make Two modes only will DO favored.
the first Empire and the Russian Although the eccen-
trictes of the Drectore much modified. dress
makers have adopted its general cut. There Is no more
funess about the hips the long, straight, Greek line IS
observed In draperes, front and back and panels SIN
define the hips they did last season, only they are
more accentuated the Empire style. For instance In
many of the new dresses you will find no overkrt or
tunlc the material Of the skirt Itself, made plain
around the edge is scantly draped in 'front.' with
Oh lOopings at the Sides and stuff Is allowed IN tho
back widths form the back draperes Pointed bodees
are entirely relegated ball and full dress Spring
back widths form the back drapces Pointed bodces
and II there is basque, 1t is only the gathered pro-
longaon Of the belted waist. sashes which lie wide
around the waist and then fall at the sde with Two
ends as long the dress viii be favorite way OF
betting in a dress The wide, full sleeve Is revived
and plee the costume ladies Will adopt the poKo
bonnet which has the double advantage Of setting on
pretty face, or cOncealng q homey one according 10
the upw ard downward inclination of the poke I'm
pire scarf like tho Sarah Bel nhardt wears In the
first act Of Ioscan finish the dress. AS all the ladies'
| know they consist of long widths, generally made OF
goods TO match the dress and trimmed all around with
deep lace as fringe This scarf Is thrown loosely over
the shoulders and back leaving the long ENDS 10 IAN
I'm front The traditional retcuo, which has been In
dsuse for long, Will again appear with the dress with
which 1t wont to be carried. Notwithstanding the
! rafvr fha
nent Of long thn-lipped old maids there Will be no dii
fculty having them introduced again, because OF their
usefulness For the last few years It has been almost
torture reach for ones handkerchief and purse IN
pocket arfuy hidden in the back folds Of the dress
At present, everything in France is la Russo, ana
fashion follows the movement Models OF RUSSIAN
blouse waists are on exhibition in all tho dressmakinS
establishments. Every description of Russian en-
broldered galoons are employed for the trimming OF
dresses and garments. Heavy gold and silver en-
broderes are never out Of fashion in Russia coarse
home-spun goods such by the middle class
in that country, viii be made up here INTO costumes
for street use during the still cool days OF April ana
May The broad Russian dladem, which grows very
small on the Sides and the soft crowns of inc he@o
! gears, Will be Initiated for new bonnet FORMS
Among the models, very effective one al inc
Roger establishment. ibis Empire dress was ln%le
Of aurora boreais7 woolen goods The cloth, Wnich
Law Main at the edge Of the skirt
| u,as trimmed at tho bottom With a thick
vide ruchng OF pnked rose leaves lying
one on top of the other and made Of aurora ooroas
silk The goods Of the upper SKIRT formed deep ioiu
front and hack which were caught on each size oy
wide gat on Of arse linen heavily embroidered
yr,,b old gold furnished silver, boreas' and
nalc blue arabesuues More of this galoon was laid
M and down IN stripes on the sides as panels, which
! gradually grew narrower they mounted up to the
waist The Directolre cOrsage was belted In with
wide sash OF aurora bUrcas' ribbon whlcn fcli IN
two long ends the right pulled plastron OF ecru
| batsee strewn with Pompadour designs formed the
front OF the corsage. over It fell pointed revers
of the voollen goods striped with gaoons which mar
rowing into one, folded over the eauZe plastron and
fell into the wide belt. neck band of galoon and
| full sleeves with wide gaoon cuffs completed this
costume
| Otcn embroideries worked in the goods and lined
with light shades OF silk are also among the novelties.
! Here is dress which IS handsome model OF tina.
| style II is made of black -four de sole, new
Lyon silk which is between satin and faille,
and which neither creases nor grows CLASSY The
lower part OF the skirt is covered with immense clover
lesyos made with black lace inserting lined with Palsy
blue SILK The black silk back falls long and straight
and the short gathered tunc In front "a made Of al
ternate bands of black SILK and lace insertings lined
| with blue. The black silk bodice is mado tight and
round in the back and s heightened in front with
| tlght-ftting but detached vest whose overlapping
revcrs are lined with blue. \ plastron Of gathered
insertlngs lined with blue makes up the front. On
each shoulder there is clover leaf and there Is one
on the wrist Of the plain black SILK sleeve
Originality so often goes contrary to correctness
and simplicity that 1t Is very difficult TO combine the
three in street dresses. However saw a few speci-
mems at the Rouf establishment which seem to com
blne the three requisites. One was combination OF
beige cloth and dark heotrope diagonal goods The
plain skirt Of beige cloth was edged with Greek
designs worked with raised beige and heotrope
braidlng over this heliOtrope polonase
fell in deep folds in front and back, and caught
high at the sides The oddly of the gown lay in the
bodice The front lay in full gathers, part Of which
was taken up in the shoulder near the arm; the rest,
instead of being taken in the shoulder and neck,
| was gathered a narrow black MORE ribbon and
left loose to fall over the bodice like This
fitness was continued down the waist, shIrrcd to
simulate belt then fell Into the skirt to add to its
width very pretty plastron Of old gold Russian
embrOderes garnshed the front OF the corsage, but
this-wheE more simple toilet was rcquired-coud
be concealed by bringing the gathered reveses for
ward and tying them together with the ends Of the
MORE ribbons. The sleeves were peculiarly attached
tho bodice instead Of being sewed Into the arm hole
they bound at the top with black MORE ribbon,
then attached and gathered to the cosage so that the
ribbon stood out like a black rufne. At the
wrists the sleeves were gathered on narrow moire
ribbon Just like the sleeve OF child's apron.
The Empire style being remote imitation
OF the ancient Greek dresses are now draped as
neNly like the peplum modern practically
will allow. Thus the folds Of the bodices and skirts
made long and deep in soft wooen fabrics to im-
tate the satuesque drapenes Of the antique beau
tiful Rouf model had stone-colored woollen skirt
laid in fine ACCORDION plests, which, they not
fastened, open and close very gracefully with the
movement OF walking Over this overdress OF
light woolen goods is disposed in irregular deep folds
sldo, Is caught up high the other, and Is so
draped In the back to form long, hanging monks
hood The belted corsage is made entirely Of folds
which taken in the shoulders crossed transversey
taken into wide folded Greek belt.
The point left bare the neck and chest by the
ransversal folds is filed In with chemlsette of old