Los Angeles daily herald., 1888-06-20
A YEAR IN EUROPE.
Experiences of Mr.. Harris
Newmark.
THE POLITICAL SITUATION.
A Fast Tiip Across the Atlantic
Italy. Its Beauties and Its
Blemishes.

after an absence Of about fourteen
months. Yesterday morning HERALD
reporter called on Mr.. Newmark and
found him surrounded by number oi
friends TO whom he was relating his ex-
periences while over the ocean. 81 had
a most delightful time" Mr.. Newmark
was saying, "and everything went off as
well as II some one had been ahead OF
me and made all my arrangements. ]
visited England, Ireland, Scotland,
France. Germany, Italy, Austria and
Denmark, in fact roved about all over
the European continent in my pur
suit Of pleasure and information.
Last winter passed on the Riviera and
in Italy, and / suppose you would like to
know how those places compare with
Southern California am perfectly
honest in my statement that the climate
there Is not 50 good. 1t is not 80 equable,
in the first place, and although the sun.
shine is warm and pleasant, yet | found
myself s.iyering many day when stand
ing In the shady streets OF Naples. The
Riviera is magnificent place, so far rs
scenery and accommodations are con-
cerned. A prince can be entertained
there bettor than in his own household,
and pretty white chateaux dot the ever
green hills, on which the warm soft breeze
from the ocean is ever blowing. The
elite OF European society congregates
there during the winter months, some
attracted by the genial climate but many
to safe their passions at the gaming ta-
bles. These places are conducted on
most elaborate scale. Lackeys in uni
forms Of silver and gold, and everything
to please the eye and tempt the pocket
abounds. My "reminiscences of Italy are
both delightful and distressing-delight-
full because OF the many antiquities car
rying one back 10 the very foundations
of literature, and distressing because of
the dirt that prevails there almost
everywhere. Naples is most remarka-
BILE city in this respect. The
buildings are imposing structures six
and seven stories high, but the effect
OF their grandeur is lost, for the thorough
fares are SO narrow that it is like travers-
ing shady lane. Then, again, the
streets are remarkably constructed, hav-
ing in some case 200 or 800 feet more
elevation at one end than at the other.
Travelling along there is rather peculiar:
al er walking few yards one ascends
few steps, little further along more
have to be mounted, and SO on, until, by
a system Of terraces, the supreme eleva-
ii N is reached. Switzerland is the gem
OF Europe. One is perfectly astounded
by the mammoth scale on which nature
has conducted her operations, and one
learns with regret the charming valleys
hemmed in by snow-capped peaks and
teeming with industrious and hospitable
people. | met NJ. T.. +. Spence
in one OF these places; he was alpenstock
in hand and evidently enjoying himself
thoroughly. You have OF course heard
OF the old gentleman who went to Vienna
just to pass day and who was so de-
lighted with the place that he never left
it again. Well, such place it is. AL
way steeming with gaiety and with con-
cerls, balls and receptions following each
other in endless succession, it ranks as
premier among the social resorts of Eu-
rope. passed the summer in Denmark
and had a magnificent time among the
grand old fiords and magnificent forests
OF that country. was in Lyons, France,
when the old Emperor OF Germany died,
and was very much impressed with
the evident deep sorrow with which
seemed 10 mourn him as personal loss
and this was really the case, for while he
lived there was no fear OF any open dis
sensions between the two countries.
The removal by mighty hand of Unser
an uneasy one. The present Emperor is
a wayward young man, headstrong and
self-willed, and he will not be contented
x-,il haipe, I'm, ~
will want 10 dictate the affairs OF Europe.
He is essentially a military man and
loves martial fame and glory. He will
hitch better with Bismarck than Unser
Fritz did, for it was an open
secret in Europe that those two were
not Of mind. The present Emperor is,
however, tolerao,,y sensible Young
fellow, and now that he has been handed
the reins OF mighty nation, he will
probably curb his own feelings, and sub
nit 10 the counsellings of the old and
tried friends OF Germany by whom his
throne is surrounded. l was both glad
and sorry to leave Europe, although
was anxious TO get back here again, l
was 10th to leave tne pleasant and ever
changing panorama of my travels. We
had sulendid trip across, and had the
good fortune to be on the Etruria, and
made the fastest trip Oh record.
We went from Queenstown to Sandy
Hook in days, hour, 50 minutes, beat
ing all previous records by 2 hours, 45
minutes. will tell you why we went so
fast. The Etruria and the Umbria are
both owned by the Cunard line and q
good deal OF rivalry exists between the
captains and officers OF the boats. The
Umbria had an unbrolen record of 493
miles and our captain, Mr.. Theodore
Cook, undertook TO beat this and did So
for one day we travelled sos knots. Cap
tain Cook is a remarkable gentleman
and a true son OF Neptune.
He attends strictly to his duties
and associates very little with the
passengers either in the cabins or on
deck. His ocean record, will, however,
be beaten, for when | was at Glasgow |
saw in the shipbuilding yards there three
boats which are being constructed for
ocea1. travel, and which will be able, it
is said, to cross the ocean in five days.
Each boat will have three screws and
will be able to carry ] l 900 tons Of freight
instead Of 5000 as is usual on
the Atlantic boats. Well, it is
time to 90 to lunch, gentlemen" ;"
said Mr.. Newmark, rising and thus
Terminating the conversation, and the
reporter strolled off down the street and
entered into abstruse mental calculations
as to how he could apportion his salary
go as to make trip across the water
himself next year and personally inspect
all the glories on which MIR. Newmark
had been dilating.