Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-11-03
tCopyriGhted, 1851

copyrighted. 1851
Special Correspondence of THE EVENING STAR.
DONEGAL, IRELAND. Oct %. 1sss-From the
region OF the Giants Causeway and the Skier
ries past the shining mouth of Tough Foyle our
ronte lay westward along the misty coast Of
lnishowen, whose eternal mountain sentinel,
Sileve Snaght, rises grim and lonely above the
gray fogs of the North; and We were soon
gliding between Malin Head, the most
northern mainland ground of Ireland,
ana Ennistrahul, the ultima thule of Irish
islets towards Iceland. 1t is through this
Wild ocean-path the steamers travel il
Their northernmost way between America
ana Europe; and as the mainland and
Island are less than miles apart, a noble view
of both may be enjoyed. The Head has less
Whdness and magnifcence than any portion of
the Irish coast have SO far seen. Yet. capped
by lts gigantic lighthouse it's puppies and
Brays, broken by dark assures of lonely glens
anu the deep blacks of cavern-mouths, round
ing boldly into sea-walls or red or here and
t4ere into stretches of sand-dunes. intensified
IN their solitariness by dreary hut or cabin;
coupled with glimpses of the wild and rocky
crass OF Ennistrahul. where as fearful a record
OF wreck is kept as at Nova Scotias Sable
Island that sand-grave of the sea; give one a
shhuder OF dread upon the calmest waters be-
meath the fairest sky
...r.. OIL. RIM OF VAST CAULDRoN.
;: Fair RS that sky may be, danger is ever near.
This whole coast is but part of the MIN of
vast de vii scaulilrop whose contents seethe and
tVwhiri ceaseiessly. The great gulf stream, de-
Dpuchlng from our own shores, sweeps to the
northeast across, the Atlantic. The mighty
arctic current rushing from polar seas be-
tween the eternal ice-shcres of upper Scandi-
navla and Iceland to the southwest and meet
ing the former, the great maelstrom off the
Norway coast is formed: and the inconceiv-
Oily tremendous elemental struggles are
continued, IN either direction toward the
southwest and northeast from the vortex
with lessenlng fury, "a the broken
forces lose somewhat their awful power.
Thus the entire northwest Irish coast is q
acknowledgement, in advance and retreat
for these terrible ocean conflicts; and its
shores wildly suggest in their agony.
steeiy, Jagged, crag-teeth and heights, the pic
ture OF some chained Titanic creature growl-
ing. moaning and flashing its worn fangs at the
ceaseless savagery of conflicts which through
ages have broken upon it in surprising oceanic
Commissions. Well, 1t is at these wild times for
the fishers and coasters that they scud behind
the foamings and thunderings into the restless
bosoms OF cove and Tough; and well it was for
us that our canny skipper, Tasting the hell in
the air. as he graphically put it, made all pos
behind the sandy shores and hideous huts of
the half-savage fishermen of Fannat Head.
INCARNATION OF DYNAMITE.
And here occurred a little incident illustrat-
ing the fact that all the genuine banditti
civilization are not among the guarda civil of
forlOrn Cuba. No sooner were we in safe an
chOrage than boat load of blue blOused pirates
IN her gentle majesty's service put out from
the great coast-guard station at Buncrana, and
with frowning looks and accusative mien gave
us all. with the craft from stem to stern,
n OVCTlnnI1nD fharn
something rakish, something positively
reasonable in our unsayory little vessel.
1t was correctly licensed. Everything was
according to requirement OF the state
1y board OF admiralty regulations. But alack
and aha! its skipper was q hated rishman from
the West Coast. BY token Of nature, heredity
and history, hero was crime. For more dire
than all that, was the culpable fact that his
only passenger was an American, and that one
browner, grimier and more travel-stained and
ferocious than the wild Irish skipper himself
Here could be no less than the very incarnation
or dynamite. They accordingly approached
me with caution and severity Commensurate
with the certain Importance of this luckily
found Balfourian prize.
IN BAD COMPANY.
IAN whew ar YEP" AN it's fine company
yer'e in the day!' (This menacingly to the
skipper, who really began to feel cause for
alarm. San wud We step FORE like man. an
other scOrnfuf queries and portentous COM
nlanes were shOwered upon me glibly. never
before so thoroughly appreciated good Mr.
Bayard's majestic passport parchments as at
that luminous moment. And took my own
time about releasing it from its great blue en-
velope. That done, unfolded its two cross
folds with positive dignity; the conscious
operative dignity Of ease and negligent DELAY
Then as the sun was shining across Aileach
down over the wide swiftly basin through
flalI 10 t1fa II
flooded with light like a goblet of amber wine
suddenly lifted the yard-square document be-
tween our tormcntors and the southern sum-
For moment l WAS myself enthralled in its
prideful contemplation. There sat the Ameri-
can Eagle, like an Observation-Disclosures set
ting hen. rising in fury upon her dishevelcd
nest. her naughty head and kissing open beak
disturbing the upper air. her right claw as if
clutching blades Of moldy hay, her left gripping
thunderbolts and arrows. and below her a
startling nebul@ OF stars, like spilled nestful
OF flashing eggs tunbling into space beneath
'Aha!-faith an its the aigle-bird good for
sore eyes. Ye can fairly see her scrame"
shouted my skipper eieefully, and with mighty
reinsurance.
1t should have quailed them; and it did to
the degree that they
WITHDREW FOR sULLEN COUNSEL.
"Faith an it's the 'bobs' the spalpeens are
wantin';' whispered my skipper, now itching
But gave them the 'bobs," shilling apiece,
with my CHEEKY compliments
."Beikes yer'e quare travcler!" they NUT
tered while regaining their boat as il reluct ant
to leave SO profitable a field of operation.
:'Bellkes yer'e no coast-guards at all, me
sup-downs; but the fine black-guards a!.o-
gether" rOared back my skipper in wild and
belligerent triumph now thoroughly reused for
war, as they, grumblingly rowed away up the
narrowing Tough.
SHEEP HAvENs HORN HEAD.
=. Almost as large and as interesting as the
loughs Of Foyle and swiftly are the extended.
simmons and ramified Bay of Mulroy, and the
broader 'expanse Of Sheep Haven, which we
reached in q few hours SAIL after rounding
Fannet Head. to the west of Tough Swilly.
Owing to the grand elevations Of countless pro-
montorles and the constant vagaries Of shore
line within the estuaries themselves which are
backed in every direction by higher peaks and
still more romantic settings, the scenery of these
two bays is simply matchless in Ireland or in anv
other land in which ever wandered, The
great Horn Head at the western extremity of
Sheep Haven is alone worth the risk of any dis
comfort or danger to see. One of its impress
siye natural phenomena. reminding of a min
lature copy OF the same known AZ the Spout
ing Rock, at Newport, has a wonderful charm
OF dread about it. 1t is called
MACswINE's GUN.
The frequent tremendous assaults of the
ocean through the ages has actually bored into
khsa I'd uorfbwae< fo,o - A. ...o.-....