The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1888-04-24
COTTON DRESSES.
Styles Which Will Prevail During the
Spring and Summer Seasons.


Spring and Summer Seasons.
Round waists and shirred basques
are the styles used for handsome en-
broidered robes. The round waist is
without fullness on the shoulders but
is gathered into belt in front and
back. 1t may be made on lining, but
it is best to make such waists without
lining, covering the edges of the seams
neatly, and making these seams very
small The pointed neck or the sur
plice front Tapped to the left side at the
waist line will be used for dressy toll
cites; when the neck is high, turned
over Byron collar will take the place
of the standing band so long worn.
Yoke waists will also be worn, with
the yoke made of the embroidery, and
also the collar and pointed epaulettes
and cuffs. Sometimes a Y of embroid
cry in back and front will be used in
stead of the yoke which covers the en-
tire shoulders; the plain muslin is then
shirred next this V both on the should
ers and waist line. When the en-
broidery is striped, the basque may be
plain, with the stripes varied to suit
different forms, the middle forms of
the back and the front having the
stripes coming diagonally toward the
middle, forming Il series Of VS. 20
lonaises of embroidered muslin will be
made with apron front and diagonal
waist fastening on the left side. The
full round skirt gathered to a belt and
without. drapery will be worn again
both in embroidered and in plain mus
Inns; the latter will be hemmed and
tucked, or trimmed around with rows
of insertion. A favOrite design for Such
skirts has vines of embroidery passing
around the skirt and alternating
with clusters of drawn-wOrk. When
the embroidery is used for an over
skirt above plain muslin skirt it is
arranged in a very simple apron shape
either pointed to the foot in front OF
drawn up highest on one side, or else
the overskirt drops to the foot of the
dress all around, and is very slightly
caught up alike on both hips. Belts
and dropping sashes of ribbon will
complete such dresses. FlOunces of
embroidered muslin are chosen wide
enough for three or four to cover the
entire back of the skirt or else they
are narrower and are put around the
skirt with a short panier overskirt
above of plain muslin edged with en-
broidery.
Ginghams and percales are intended
for the simplest summer dresses, and
should be made more simple than the
dressy embroidered muslins and sat
teens. These may have q plain basque,
with a vest of embroidery OF some
shirred revers for trimming the fronts,
but the full round waists and tucked
Garibaldi waists will be more used.
The upper part of the cOrsage will be
laid in fine lengthwise tucks from the
neck down, and similar tucks will hold
the fullness at the waist line, also at the
armhOles and wrists of full sleeves.
The Garibaldi waists have q box plat
down the middle of the front, with
shirring at the neck and waist line on
each side of the plat; the back also gath
cred at the neck and waist line-nOt on
the shOulders-and the space below the
belt is short, and is pointed in front
and back. Cashmere, surah and French
flannel bodices are also made by this
model, and delicatt&&y feather-stitched
with silk. Satteens are not sent fire.
quently to wash, but are cleaned once
or twice a season by a professional
scourer, and may therefore be made
up more deliberately with plated lower
skirt and panier draperies. The basque
is smoothly fitted over a lining, and
may have pointed vest and collar of
embroidery, OF else the embroidery
forms gathered plastron at the top,
with Y of velvet below. All of the
old time lawns, with their flower
striped patterns, will be revived for
next summer, and with these founces
will be worn, either all around the
skirt or else covering the back breadths.
while the fronts have a deep apron
falling low on the single founce that
extends around the skirt at the foot.
French percale dresses made by Paris
modistes have these flounces edged with
small scallops wrought in button hole
stitches, while the twilled cotton jeans
worn by Parisiennes are of such sub
stantial quality that the founces are
pinked, or else cut in points, and
notched like saw teeth in the way now
seen on cloth draperies. HorpeT'S BG-
gar.
-II@ts@h-O