Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-02-03
LADIES' COLUMN.
A Well Furnished Brain a Necessary
Adjunct to Trained Fingers in a
Woman's Workshop.
Suggestions as TO Skirts, SIesTss and
C0rssgs for the Amatsur-StyIes
from Far Countries.
Rome Not the Place Whers Ignorance Is
Bnss-After Experience a Sad
Losson-Eotes,

given their time and talents to dressmsk
ing and ere by their intelligent method;
creating revolution IN this important
department OF work. That his brave
words are spoken to woman who claims
that other avenues are open for the edu-
Gated and that this work should be left to
those who have more limited spheres Of
industry Is not matter of surprise, but
thoughtful women should be grateful to
him Of the lily and the sunfiower, that he
so well advocates the bringing of skill
and culture into the workshop OF women
| Those who remember the ungainly figures
of fifty years ago, when stiff stays AMI IN.
yielding bodices rendered grace Of action
sn impossibility, will see in the ease and
perfectly adjusted seams of the modern
dress sufficient reason to insist that dress
making Is fine art and that modiste
should be accorded place among artists
A well planned costume requires not
only 3 painter's eye for color and
edaptability, but also scuIptor's
knowledge OF curve, line and Just proper
ton. Nor does the requirement stop st
this; there must be such relation main
tanned between the laws OF beauty and
those of health that science IS we'll as art
shall inGorse the perfect fitness of its en-
tirety. Then is it vain to say that the
designers Of what women shall Wesr
should be educated, cultured persons,
whose skill and talent will supply work
to the mere manual worker. Women owe
Mrs. Lsngtry debt Of gratitude for hav-
ing introduced the jersey, showing by its
easy adjustment the possibility Of per-
feet it with comfort, VIII; Oh is in fact the
art Of dressmaking. This art lies in o
system Of cutting by which certainty of
correct measurement is assured, and then
by careful basting so that the various
parts are not stretched but are accurately
adjusted and fitted to each other. The
tsiior-m1de gown is in no sense 6 piece
OF guessworK, but is as much the result
of mathematical calculation as Sny struct-
ure where parts make the whole.
A growing preference has been mani
tested by many women for men dress
makers, and the tailor-made gown in its
precision is the result of the choice, 3
stiff, mannlsh costume, curveless and des-
titute OF grace inst has for time dis
placed 8 more feminine conception. A
revolution is slowly taking. place in q
gradual return to the mo6iste who will
40 for the female form that for which the
man dressmaker fails to see g necessity.
Whatever the form may be he fits it per
fectiy, but woe to the fiat-breasted or mar
ToW-hipped, he sees no way of improve
ment. II one wants cost he cGn make it,
but gown had better be left in the hands
of woman who can feel smother womsn's
wants, building up q lacking fullress Of
bust, drawing soft folds across the hips,
and thus by hiding defects or bringing
into notice fine points, satisfying that
universal longing in the heart of all
women to look well.
In the matter of skirts, fashion can
never insist upon set styles. The skill of
the costumer is in the art OF draping and
the method can never be stereotyped. She
knows slender woman can wear fullness
on the nip while stout women can only
have few folds across the front, and
avoidance OF drawing the skirt too tightly
across the knee.
Plain round skirts are much liked; they
are now worn little longer than formerly
being just short enough to escape the
ground. Narrow plailings around the skirt
are no loUger fashionable, but for eco
nomic reasons are worn, only the tiniest
bit is allowed to show below the dra perry.
In making foundation skirts two inches
of extra length should be allowed in the
back for the hustle and two fo- each
steel. II panels are worn they must be
mounted on this skirt before the skirt is
draped.
Demi-trained skirts are in great favor
this winter fer afternoon reception
dresses and dinner gowns. The fronts
are made in the Directoire style, fiat
from belt to foot, without hip drspery,
and are laid in irregular plests, that Ia
the middle being broader than all the
others. A broad trimming crosses the
foot, and may consist of ruche or pinked
founces, but is more often brocGded
border woven in the three breadths of
the front and sides, or else it is of very
rich lace or passementerie placed fat,
with its scalloped or pointed edge turned
upward.
Short basques are now popular, al
though polonaises are by no means in
frequently worn. These are sometimes
made with pointed yokes Of velvet with
deep pointed girdle at the waist, and are
quite pretty for slender figures. Round
WASTED bodies are arranged with scarf
fchu on one side of the front, and loops
of ribbon tapering to point on the other.
Shoulder braces are now worn on plain
bodies. These are cut bias, passing over
the shoulders, the ends sloping to q
point front and back and fastened beneath
5 beaded girdle. They also form bretelles
without girdle. These are but copies
OF Swiss, italian and Norwegian styles as
they are seen in pictures of peasant
women. Thus it is, that from all sources
ideas are sought to crafty the caprice OF
the hour and to render dress attractive
and becoming.
NOTES.
Movable waistcoats are useful fashion
well followed.
Polonaises grow more and more in
favor, and are preferably Of wool over
silk or velvet skirts.
Long, soft vests of silk gauzc have
frin Of lace at the left side, and many
dropping bows of brocsded ribbon.
The theater bonnet most approved is
pale tinted, compact, hi2h trimmed in
front, and striDgless in most cases.
Fine broadcloths and ladies' cloths are
said to be used in Paris for bridesmaids
dresses and sometimes even for bridal
dresses.
Very young women wear IS finish to
higher corsages wide, high collars Of silk
muslin, or narrow puffs Of crepe lisse
ending in bow behind.
A fold of lisse on white MORE ribbon,
or the new metal-edged ribbon slone,
is chosen for the neck and wrists, upon
occasions thst approach full dress.
White ribbon, folded, or barely show
ing the edge and ending in tiny bow