New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-04-01
THE FASHIONS.
ULSTERS. JACKETS AND TAILOR-MADE
GOWNS


There is a decided fancy this spring for stripes OK
sizes and patterns for outside garments Eng
sh talors use striped and checked cassimeres, plain
Kersey cloths and scottish and Irish homespuns for
Jackets Of the prettcst stripes for Jackets have
brilliant threads of silk mingled with their wen and
woof, Illuminating the otherwise sombre goods Dark
cloths in herring bone stripe thus illuminated with
red and orange white threads and some plain goods
are shot with threads OF brilliant color but subdued
so that the effect IS rich. without being pronounced
Some exceedingly pretty cloths for Jackets are In fne
broken stripes Of two three shades Of gray Thus
silver gray cloth striped with lines In darker oxdzed
silver shade The Jackets for the promenade differ
but little in length from those worn last season
Garnltures Of braid remain popular, especially wide
military braids. with braid in fine curvng pat
terms on either edge; these brads may be in black or
In metal, or they may match the cloth on which they
used. having threads Of metal mixed through them
To be elegant. braidng must be put In UNIQUE wavs.
fastidous customers beginning 10 weary OF set
patterns. Sometimes the braldng extends up the
at the back; sometimes Il is put in in curve
under the arm: or the Jacket be braided In front
heavily and up the back like the military coat Of
drum-major Braid in some Jackets. Is laid over con-
trAsting shades Of cloth thus tobaccobrown Jacket
Is braided with brown soutacLe. laid ecru cloth.
a Gobelin blue Jacket is braaed with bloc veg red
cloth.
The manufactured homespuns used by talors, and
made by the peasantry In Scottish and Irish hus. arc
not, their would indicate cloth In the crude col
orings of the wool: but dyed In the yarn by tho
peasant, with prmitive dyes made of the woods and
barks Of forest trees. These yarns woven into
cloth by the handloom, making them exceptionally
durable goods.
Cloths for ulsters. ladies' greatcoats. are plain
Kerseys and striped cassmeros of rather more pro-
nounced pattern than those used for Jackets The finest
listers are lined throughout with plain fancy Silks
and severely plain in cut and nish fitting the figure
perfection They finished with hyfronts. like
gentleman's overcoat notched lapes faced with SILK
and slightly pointed bell-sleeves.
Riding habits are little changed In cut. Habits now
being made for the Rockaway Hunt Of Kersey cloth
and Venetian clctaa Dlar faced cloth with slight
twill. little elastic than Kerse Popular colors
for hunting habits light Grays mixed oxford grays,
and Suede colors.
Gowns made by tailors for the promenade are show
In silk and wool mixtures In small indstnct Diads,
Frightened by threads Of brilliant color. forming double
cr0ssbar on the neutral plaid ground. In shades OF
Suede and tobacco brown: in London gray tnts: in
beige cOlors sage, and Gobeln blue shades Heather
mixtures. In which the various colors are carded to-
gether in the wool before the cloth is and plain
Kersey and Venetian cloths and smooth Tibet cloths arr
all chosen for gowns Jnderskirs plain. or I'D in
large box peats large SINGLE double triple side
peats Draperies usually very long and arranged
as heretofore noted in straight, classic lines from the
waist. The few short draDeres used are only an ex-
cepton to this rule great many bodces are made
to open over vest slope from the front and dis
play the This made usually Of contrasting
materials. Dainty little sprgged patterns in silk and
wool and figured linen ducks In tiny delicate designs 90
white or tan grounds. are chosen for this purpose
Tallors recommend materials for vests which be
cleaned instead OF aundred as the process Of Ordinary
washing usually stretches the vest out OF shape.
Gowns for travelling made of plain mixed woods.
In simple, compact styles
The sheer woollen goods imported for summer after
noon dress. French buntngs and gauzes Of various
kinds These finished with fancy selvedge showing
In solid costume and in connection IN some cases with
fancy silks Of irdescent sheen pretty pale-blue
bunting recently Imported, in which the selvedge
was open in tho pattern Of fringe. but bound az the
ends with the usual corded sevedge OF goods
The gown was draped eaboratey and caught up with
long looped bows and ends Of black more ribbons.
The basque was draped in shawl fashion across the
'front.' showing the open sevedge Of the goods Another
gown If creamy white grenadne was made over skirt
Of Cashmere lace draDed silk and ooDed IN
with bows OF moss green velvet
White gowns for made Of point d. esprit net.
OF vaencIennes and simple muslns show little change
Long looped bows choux and garands Of nboon are
profusey used for garniture and grdles OF ribbon
falling the front of the IN long loops and
ends the rule. Point esprit gowns are usually
made white sursh The draDeres Of these dresses
arranged nearly cover the Dlested skirts; and
pink, green or yellow glos-giain mOit 80 sun no
basques Of lace draped over tho lining. and the
sleeves usually quite full and held In the centre 10
the In fine pleats leaving a pun al the tOp ana
bottom some OF the white muslin dresses are made
entirely OF aover embroidery. with plain skirt, nm
shed on the edge with simple hen ana WITHOUT
drapery The basque Of allover embroidery Is then
made with fine OF tucking and finished with long
bows and a grdle and hanging end OF white satin
ribbon Gowns OF dotted muslin. In large coin d)ts,
are IA ade with plain muslin fan fronts. hemmed and fin
ished with a group OF tucks az the bottom Double
psnes OF dotted muslin ornament the sides and tho
hack breadths hang in full straight brcadths. The
nlain basoues are often finished at the back with
shawl collar of dotted muslin. and a dotted vest and
ac rrofr sey rrimm 4 With garlands sad bows OF pale
yellow rose or pale green ribbon
There Is little change 20 chronicle In the size and
SHAPE " parasols. Chanzeable silks in due stripes
and shaded silk are among the most elegant materials
black ace parasols will be used this Th"se
are medium In size and shown in Cbany. EscuriA
and handrun Spanish aces. Fancy sir parasols
shown IN Gobein blue. In dark green 'hOsany gray,
and all the stylish cloth colors OF the season Few
paras0s are lined outside tho ribs Long handles arc
the rule. The handsOms handles OF carved wood.
and OF chased or etched silver Some handles
are quite straight. without crook others
IN cornucopia shape the end Carved ebony sticks
and STICKS malacea mounted with silver shown
on handsome lace fancy silk parssols.
Among odd Easter eggs ostrich egg-shelis
mounted In silver and lined with gay yellow red. o.
pale blue for bonbonoes, at the cost OF sl5 eacl
Thanks are due 20 Delury. Stern Brothers. and A
mold. Constable & Co