New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-10-07
NEW STYLES FOR WOMEN.
BoDIcEs AND DRAPERIEs-RUssIAN cLoAKs -

BoDICEs AND DRAPERIEs-RUssIAN CLoAks
NEW JEwELRY.
There is stiI a conflict between French and English;
styles French bodies arc short and low IN mo-
darts and generally drsped In 'front.' or finished win -
stimulation of vest. English bodices ON tho
contrary, long, the darts are pusheo W - '
the figure OF the wearer will allow, ana BIO "u'S
palmer than the French waist. French aes'snep
depend upon their prestige a. the former d'c's'os
of fashion. Their fashions are more picturesque bus
less practical than the fashions OF English fa'ors
English styles will continue to be adopted ior ener@s
by weIlcressed women, and the shoft"s''"
Empire gowns and Directore dresses VIII Dc worn J"
the house and for elaborate dress.
English and French designers agree on one po'n''
drapcries simple-indced some gowns h'spenss
with all drapcry and depend entirely on embro'denes
and embossed and applique trimmings Tor ""e0"
soft woollen house gown In pale dull empire sfeen
is made with a straight skirt Of wool laid over An
undershIrt Of silk, which does not show, but mercy
serves to support the upper skirt. The front a."
side brcadths of this dress embroidered In goin
thread ard white and pale olive green silks to 'hs'
depth OF onethird OF the skirt, falling to the loot
of the supporting skirt in deep fringe OF gold ana
dull green. The straight draperes at the back arr.
surmounted by short boant piece. which Is attached
to the jacket bodice The fronts OF the cket arc
pointed and embroidered round the edge. ana IAN
apart showing close-htting vest Of peaed cashmere
fastened by pointed girdle Of green velvet at tho
waist and turned back In velvet revers over narrow
ohemsette Of white Grape. gown Of fine smooth
faced ladies' cloth nov in special demand, was shown
recently at large importing house, and VIII urnisn
simple graceful model for gown to be worn IN the
house, for the street, under the new long wra ps'
which require simple dress beneath them ms
gown was a dark shade Of terracotta, the dapeiy
reached to the bottom Of the undersht and con
pletely concealed IT, except in narrow line on tfs
left side where was slashed 10 the waist and hese
together by passementerie loops of heavy cords ir
this dress the line of the underskir shown was pa''
robn-egg satin, in strong contrast TO the dark rcd
cloth which composed the gown The bodice was.
Tapped dagonaly acrosst the 'front.' caught by loops OF
passementerie cord, and showed on one SD
vest of blue satin laid IN fine yeats
stylish gown in that dark shade OF gray known
as 4" old silver Is made with plain long skirt laid
in single box plcats separated By a wide space In
front, and finished with full, straight draperes at
the back The short. square Russian jacket OF
cloth opens pointed vest, which hts
smoothly to the figure and Is ornamen'et
with applique embroidery of gray velvet, laid on
with beads Of dark oxidzed steel.
The most elegant gowns for church or reception
wear Will probably DO made in some notifications Of
the Directolre styles These dresses demand el"-
gancc Of material and simplicity OF style The pnes
OF drapery, when there are any, are from the waist
In classic effect Hanging scarfs and straight enec''
which add to the height Of the figure, are always
aimed at In these garments. Full ruches OF feathfrs
In fluffy maraboutlIke bands extensively used on
Directorc gowns. The heavy mattalasse goods, vel
vets and heavy brocatelle effects in brocaded SINS
are made up In Directoire styles, over skirts OF
cashmere, embroidered wool, plain heavy SIX or
velvet dark blue green amure royal SIR. figured
with a large black raised figure Of pine cones In
matalasse effect is made In straight Diectoifo
polonase, with large square pocket-naps OF biach
velvet at the sides. A band Of feather trimming IN
ack IN ma
of the polonase, the sleeve at the wrist tho bot
of the plain black velvet underskirt, and passes
up the side to the waist line.
Another polonaise OF black velvet, from famous
Partisan dressmaker, is entirely plain at the back
and on the sides and opens in front to display
skirt of white cloth, embroidered TO the waist In
cashmere colors and pattern and trimmed from tho
bottom with deep points Of brown otter fur This
polonase is turned back in square revers, which sxe
faced with white cloth embroidered In colors ana
display short pointed vest of white wool. similar
embroidered.
Russian styles arc noteworthy among the wraps
and gowns sent over this season from Paris. There
are many gowns made with jackets In the shot
square shape Of the Russian jacket; and Russian
cloaks with double fronts arc extensively imported
for elaborate carriage and for general use
long cloak in Russian shape shown in cloth figured
in shades of steel blue, In Moorish pattern of orna-
mented crescents The under front of this CLOAK
IS of dark blue plush An elaborate carriage CLOAK
10 this shape is composed Of goldenbrown plush INA
white CLOTH and Is a mass Of gitering Turkish ell
broIdery in old Byzantine colors the work resembling
in effect the gay India embroideries OF the Deccan-
Another cloak Of red mattalasse brocaded with piecs
velvet Is made with under front OF black veiVe'
striped with wide fiat gold simps like those seen 10
Turkish and Byzantine work and the cloak nnlShco
with heavy trimmings of black Russian bear
Some of the most beautiful and comfortable wraps
In this shape of soft figured Vicuna WOOL an eA
quisitely light warm cloth that IS manufactured IN
neutral color. Gray vcuna cloaks are trimmed
with gray velvet. steel embrocerles' anu cur' oou
of Persian lamb.
A charming Russian evening gown for Soun2
lady is of white and crimson velvet, and Is made
with an underskrt of creamy lace draped with crimson
velvet caught in front with an ornament In byhsh
enam.L The little square jacket of red velvet Is
embroidered with gold and opens over lace under
bodice.
There are no great changes in Icwelry this season.
Flower pins in small shapes, continue 10 be worn.
The newest pins closely approach the open
brooch shape worn by our grandmahers than any
thing recently made Single pansies, single aasles'
small passion flowers apd sweet peas are all popa'
but the newest pins little open circles and plaques
of white or blue enamel, set with diamonds, turquoise
or the beautiful Arizona garnets which show hrc al
night all red rubes, and have no touch OF he pui
plish hue OF oldme garnets Little fancy pms easa
CUT pins but are often used IN lace AZ tns anr a
often chosen in place OF set brooch, Their arc
beautiful little jeweed butterfly brooches. which arc
fastened by spring and may be caught IN the sh
in the bonnet, or anywhere The wearer chooses INC
smaller pins are daintily made and 90 inexpensive
that they deseryedly popular Little bonnet ms
with a mo0nstone and red garnet. or two green of
two red garnets, 80 so each Cuf pins with tuI.
auose or ganeds are r. and each ad wSen as
flower brooches set with diamonds are more COSTLY,
but hardly more beautiful than some OF these dainty
little pins.
Thanks due to James McCreery Co, u. j. Dom.
ming Co.. Arnold, Constable A Co. and Tiffany a 10.