The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1888-11-17

hERALD. J-heGurnlnS from Cartag0 TO
San Jose Uia diigencia, our experiences
might be called unique, were they not
similar to those of all travellers in this
portion of the world. The rickity
coach,
GACDILY PAINTED RED,
black and yellow, is furnished with a
profusion of leather curtains, cracked
and grimy, aprons and cushions of the
same material and condition, and mites
of old rope, the propelling power being
mule and two horses-the mule in the
middle.
The driver wears gray jacket, elab :
orately braided, military sash OF red
silk, leather breeches, trimmed down
The outside seams with double rows of
silver buttons and jingling coins, the
toute ensemble topped with Panama
hat OF an enormous size, encircled by
silver cord as thick as my thumb, set
raklshly on one side of his head.
Let me tell you secret, dear readers.
Whenever you travel by ditiqencia, in
any country, always make it point to
secure seat beside the driver-if that
important functionary can be induced.
by dlnt OF love or money, to PERM
you, NO matter how the sun NAV
SHINE or skies may lower, or dust NAV
sting; take my word for 1.-THE outside
is infinitely preferable to the jolts and
bumps and headaches and nausea to be
endured inside. How can
sCANT, FEMININE PETr1coATs
allow one to make the ascentP Easily
enough-if one only knows how
though on most old-fashloned coaches
the drivers perch is high up above the
great wheels. and not sign of "step"
to assist in reaching it. 1t is no more
difficult than climbing a ladder, or
| skipping down a fre-escape-and that
| any women can do i'll case of emer-
gency. One foot on the hub, the other
on top of the wheel. Your hand to
the driver alott. one more step, "a long
pull, strong pull''-and there you are,
though, like the writer, by no means
fragile sylph.
Possibly, when arrived at the Jour
ney's end, you nose may be sun blister
ed, your hair blowsy, and your raiment
"ot the earth earthly" but you will find
yourself in much better condition.
physically and spiritually, than the
unhappy creatures who remained pen
ned within the onion-odorous interior.
With their pale faces, upset stomachs.
vorn-out tempers, and multitudinous
bruises, gained from plunging perforce.
into each others arms.
1t was thus that established myself
for last journey through the beauti-
full valley of Cartago-and away we
went, smooth or rough, up hill and
| down, over plain and precipice, mud
and boulders with speed that never
| slackened. Such cracking and rafting.
foaming and frenzy, never was heard
before. The lusty driver-having been
flattered
WITHIN AN INCH OF HIS LIFE
by La Americana, in her effort to secure
the coveted sest-determined to dis
tinguish himself, or perish in the at
tempt, and Piled his whip with merci-
less vigor, his prolonged "Mulas.
ah-h-h J" making the hills ro-echo.
AS we tore through the silent coun-
try, everything seemed to catch the in
lection, and suddenly break into riot.
Women, young and old, rushed to
their doorways, screaming like lunatics,
conyulslVely wishing US an eternal
dd0aS; While from every gateway,
shaggy dogs bounced upon our trail
with the aV,dity of wolves, pursued US
for time with insane eagerness then
gave up the chase, and turned to rend
each other. Inside the coach were
mishsps and catastrophies. uproar and
merriment, as the crowded passengers,
hurled from side to side, bumped heads
and bruised one another black and
blue; while we were on our aerial perch
though compelled to cling for dear
life to the drivers jacket "a proceeding
which he did not resentl-enioyeda
birds eye view worth crossing the ocean
to obtain.
For many miles. the dusty highways
is lined on both sides with
COFFEE PLANTATIONS,
so whitening the landscape with starry
blossoms that il looked as if there had
been recent fall of snow. Then came
dark green fields of sturdy corn; ba-
mana patches and pine apple planta-
lions in every stage of cultivation:
interpreted by billowy stretches of
pale green sugar cane. Anon, there
were church towers, and Indian vii
lagos and isolated huts of wild bamboo.
and, better than all, there was the per
feet blue of oloudless sky, cooling
breezss blowing straight from snow
capped peaks, and the encircling noun
taIns, with their ceaseless changes of
lights and shadows.
Not far from Carriage, we came to a
celebrated cattle ranch called "El
Cerado," owned by a wealthy Costa
Rican, who completed his education
several years ago in Philadelphia. bis
casa lies at the height of l 500 feet up
the sloping side of Grazu, overlooking
the dismantled towers of the old capital,
and wide expanse of emerald valley.
Though nominally a cattle farm, the
greater portion of this fine estate is
under cultivation, yielding potatoes,
peaches, ounces, etc., besides corn,
wheat and sugar-cane. The house is
sheltered from the keen winds that
frequently sweep downward from the
CONE OF THE VOLCANO,