Wichita eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1886-1890, 1888-08-08
A RIDE In GUATEMALA.
ROUGH TRIP THROUGH THE COR
DlLlERAS' SIDE SPURS.

Btage Travel in Central America-Indian
Ways-A Lively Scene-Driving Through
Town at Full GalIop-A Tiresome
Ascent-Down Grade.
left Quezaltenango by stagefor San Mar
COS recently. The road runs through the
side spurs of the Cordilleras for thirty-six
miles, and the up grades are so heavy that To
make any time the animals are whipped
along on every level stretch and sent faster
down hill, the brake being applied only
when the wagon gains too much on the
horses. The team we had was made up Of
three miserable horses, not more than four
teen hands high, and one lazy mule of about
the same size. The stages are canvas COW
cred spring wagons, seating four people In
side and one with the driver, all seats on the
same level and cushioned with leather stuffed
with straw, and as hard as the boards under
Meath Most Of the drivers are Me1icans,
wearing sandals ard such clothes as they may
beg, borrow, or steal The diligence COM
pany supplies a few extra pieces Of chain,
leather, an immense lash whip, and large
knife, with which the driver fashions the
leather to repair the dozen or SO breaks OF
the harness III the course of the day.
The first town reached was san Mateo,
about two leagues from Quezaltenango, and
one league further on, as we neared the foot
of the mountains, we passed through San
Juan Ostuucalco, pueblo" Of 600 or 700
souls. Ii was about o'clock in the morning
and the streets were filled with Indians
bringing in market produce, some carrying
the loads in baskets on their heads but the
majority had their cargoes on their backs in
what is called ''canasta.n This is wooden
framework of shelves fastened into four up
right pieces of wood and stiffened with raw
hide thongs those of ordinary size being
about four feet high, thirty inches wide and
twenty inches deep. Cords around the bot
tom and middle are Joined to the leather
teadpiece, or broad strap, which passes
across the mans forehead and serves to hold
The coutrivence in place. The Indian, in
Filming his body slightly forward, travels for
eays thus laden with his pack of $50 pounds
SO delicately balanced and adjusted that he
feels no excess of STRAIN on any particular
point. Many were driving goats and sheep
Ia front Of them, and Others dragging them
with ropes tied around their necks.
The pretty, bright colored dresses OF the
Indians added much to this lively scene. Now
and then you could STE the entire family
bringing in the produce of their farm, the
father himself carrying his load and driving
the "burro," SO heavily packed that nothing
but the tips of his ears and his feet could be
seen. followed by tia mother with a basket
on her head and the youngest strapped to her
back, with his legs dangling out of the folds
of the shawl and his little black head peep
ing out of the top. Then come the two boys,
both carrying loads; the Older one tugging at
rope tied to the neck of an obstinate,
squealing pig, who wishes to go in any direc-
ton but the proper one, and who is being
urged forward By the younger boy, who is
laying his whip across its hind quarters at
every step. They seem to make but slow
progress, but they VIII reach the plaza and in
time for market hours.
Through the main street Of San Juan,
paved with cobble stones and filed with such
a crowd, our driver forced his animals at
gallop urging them on with hts whip and
shrill whistle, and being comparatively fresh
they responded quite willingly. The leaders,
with sleigh bells tied to their necks, warned
all in advance to get out Of the way. Away
We went, bounding over the uneven pave
ment with great racket, and in ways so
narrow that the crowd had to hug the sides
of the houses to escape our wheels. For blocks
In front you could see the Indians escaping
into the side streets when possible, and
though these people are bjected to the dan
ger of being run over every time n diligence
passes, they seem TO bear no III viii to the
careless drivers. They have never seen any
other management of horses, and presume
they think that this is the proper WAY TO
drive. And besides, they depend on the stage
line for the execution of any commissions
they may have in the neighboring towns.
Many times our driver stopped in the long
streets of San Juan, always welcome guest,
dropping packages here, picking them up
there, and at every stop receiving his small
piece of silver and drink in payment He
took SO many drinks before coming to tho
hills that began to have some fesrs for our
safety On the steep and dangerous roads to
come
Three miles TO the north Of San Juan the
long and tiresome ascent begins, and SO mar
row that horsemeu only can pass the stage.
The road is cut into the mountain side,
many places In solid rock, in which, as you
so slowly ahead, can be seen many names
and prettily carved crosses; and on nearing
the summit you see many wooden crosses
planted on the roadside inscribed with the
names of the saints in whose honor they
were erected. Looking back. the entire val
ley of Orezalte mango is spread ont before
and about 2,000 feet below You, and often
obscured by the clouds, for you are above
them and in them, and the blankets over
your knees and your heavy wraps do not
make you feel ever warm. We were nearly
five hours making the ridge, a distance Of
'aS Tha mountain
in this region IS grand, but any views, no
matter how beautiful, would become monot-
onous when seen from an almost springless
vehicle, dragged over rain washed, rocky
road at a gaNOp, accompanied by Mexican
drivers yells and whistles, and the incessant
snapping of his whip; 50. at about l o'clock
when We puli23 up at the breakfast station
In g lovely green mountain valley, it was not
the meal that pleased Us. but tho relief felt
In getting out Of that hard cushioned, wagon
and away from the drivers noise
The STAGES meet ~ this stopping place, and
when tie drivers had finished their conversa-
lion without any consideration fer The feel
ings of the impatient passengers we were
ayaiu OF. and soon OF the down grade. 1t
v7.s SO rocky that with nv feet hraced ia
front and holding On 10 The SIDES very often
came down oz the seat with SO violent q
bump that felt as if my spinal column had
gone up through my brain Now and then
the sta ;ss would give side lurch and smash
The brifr OF NY nat agein1 tbs side sticks.
This dom hiH ride continued for two hours,
Until, thoroughly exhausted. we arrived as
the town Of Sap Pedro. where We caught
glimpse Of & rxihes level country II advance
-lsslatep,sls Cor. New York Times.
Manufacture OF Alumin.-,.
A London company is reported TO have Sc
cured patents for the chemical production Of