St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1888-06-10
THE SEWING GIRLS,
Obliged to Work Three Months
Before Reaching the
Pay Roll.
Then Come Long Hours,
Seanty Wages and Dismiss
al When Competent.
Thoughts Of Recreation Meet
With the Disapproval Of
a Grim Forelady.
Eva Gay Hires Out as a Seam.
stress and Peeps Behind
the Scenes.

During the last two or three weeks
most of my spare time has been taken
up in visiting and interviewing many
ladies of several classes, all making or
trying to make living by dressmaking.
There were the owners of establish
ments-I was interested in their per-
sonal appearance; some were angular,
tall and thin, had sharp voices, wore
eyeglasses, and generally fiourished a
cleaning row of false teeth. Their
dresses hung in severely classic
folds, the only decoration consisting of
an arabesque design pricked out
with pins. l was always afraid to
ask many questions of such an en-
plOyer. She seemed to look through
and beyond me. There was decisive
snap to her remarks equaled only by
the click of her scissors. She invaria-
bly, had a keen eye for business,
wouldn't waste any time answering
questions, didn't want to hire help I'M
less under conditions most favorable to
herself. She would look me over and
slam the door in my face without de-
lions out in the hallway.
Another and more numerous class
also came to my notice. One of this sort
is smooth-voiced, handsome, looks more
like barrel and less like lath, is al
ways OverdreSSed, makes sort of walk
ing fashion plate of herself, wears many
rings and much watch chain. l like
her. She would waddle, no, glide,
mean, to the door, shake hands effu-
Sively, want to measure me for stylish
dress right away. When asked ques-
tions about work or wages she suddenly
lost interest and referred me to her as
sistant. But if L insisted on question
ing her in person she generally an
sWered,. to get rid of me: She is willing
to take in apprentices at most any time
and not very particular about the terms
when you start. She has but one dis
tinctive failing, of which | shall speak
later.
Next to the lady in charge came the
forelady or head cutter. She often
hires the help, directs the sewing girls
and is always responsible for any mis-
take in the drapery or fit of a garment:
that's part of her business. She is
Intelligent, meek to employer, tyran.
nical to apprentice, always hard-worked
and in rare cases well paid. She wears
sad-colored gowns, thinks it a sin to
curl her bangs, dimes at a cheap restau-
rant instead of bringing her dinner in
brown paper as many humber girls do.
She is member of some church, likes
to teach Sunday school and gives her
spare pennies to educate the heather.
If you suggest that she devote her spare
energies to educating the heather
within our gates, she opens her ewes
and doesn't quite understand.
DreSSmaking is a queer trade. On
travelling around the city | found more
pretentiOus establishments located near
the business centerS. while throughout
the city were scattered smaller places.
employing only one or two girls. l like
to be in shop where there are MANY
girls; they're sure to be Sociable when
you get acquainted, and there is more
opportunity of finding out their real
condition.
There exist in the dressmaking trade
a large number of apprentices. |
wanted to know something about their
joys and sorrows, so looked for an OPEN
ing. It's hardly necessary to remark
that my experiment was attended with
many sorrows, but Pm getting used to
disappointment. l applied at the most
fashionable place l could find. Madam
didn't give me chance to enumerate
my qualifications. She only said:
1--WE don't need any apprentices, the
places are all spoken for long time
ahead.'
Sauntering down Nicollet avenue. 1
found that many of the shops were on
ness blocks. The work rooms were not
positively dirty, yet they were so
crowded and hot that was afraid to try
it. Then many were at the rear of
buildings. The windows commanding
a picturesque view of the back yards of
the block, and the smell that came up
from them was suggestive to say the
least. AT last on side street spled
pleasant looking place. so rang the door
bell, was admitted and asked the dress
maker for chance to learn the trade.
Can you do plain sewing?" she
asked.
wished that I could, but it was no
use. l had to say that l didn't know
much about sewing, but was willing to
learn. Then came lot of questions
about age, religion and previous condi-
ton of Servltude. | answered as dis
creetly as possible.
81 guess you might come and try it
awhile,'' she said, finally.
whats the wageS?"
''Why, bless you, girl, you don't eX-
pect wages, do -you?" she cried in per-
feet horror.
''Why, yes ma'am, II thought you
paid girl for working" humbly an
swered.
"Of course we do, when you learn"
she said briskly, "but you have to serve
three months without any pay; then, if
you've worked real steady, you will be-
gin to earn little.''
IF l could do plain sewing, of course
you'd pay me from the first" was my
confident remark
"Oh, no. Every girl gives three
months without pay to learn the diff
ferent kinds of sewing; maybe you'd
have to stay longer" she replied.
'WOuld learn cutting and fitting in
that time?'
mo; you have to spend three months
more learning the system, then YOU
may be said to know the trade" she
volubly explained.
l am not at all ashamed of being
poor, SO promptly said:
But I'm not working for the fun of
it; | have my living to earn. How can
l pay my board while giving you my
work without pay for six, or even three
mQnths?"
Most of the girls who come to learn
live at home and their folks have to sup
port them,"s she explained.
1t seemed to me fortunate arrange
ment for dressmakers to be able to con
stantly find number of girls willing to
work for an indefinite period without
pay, the dressmaker at the same time
getting good price from her customers
for their work. 1t made me envious.
wanted to own shop and get rich right
away.
After considerable discussion we