Oxford eagle. (Oxford, Lafayette Co., Miss.) 1876-current, 1888-01-12
THE NEEDLE in ART


Tne origin II embroidery is lost in
antiquity. but IL is known 10 have
existed before painting and to have
been the first medium of reproducing
natural objects in their natural colors
Tho work came from the East aud was
first called Fhrygium or Phrygian
work. while au embroiderer was
called Phrygio. and designs worked
entirely in gold or silver thread.
Auriphrygium. and these words would
seem 10 indicate that il was first
brought TO OK ,ellcnce bv the Baby
lonians. although Sir J G. Wilkinson
has discovered upon Egyptian monu-
ments. painted in the eighteenth
dynasty before tho time OF Babylon,
designs in arabcsque embroidery upon
the garments and furniture of the
Egyptians We have undoub,cd evil
dencc that both the Assyr'ians and tho
Egyptians were particularly lavish
In the needle work decorations. Of not
only their temples. houses and gar
ments. but even for the sails If their
boats; and Il was from them that the
jews learned the art. and considered
1t worthy OF express mention in Exo-
dus rs part Of the adornment Of the
Tabernacle and of the sacred robes OF
the priests.
From the Egyptians and the He
hrews. and also from Eastern nations.
the Romans and Greeks became ac-
quainted with its higher branches.
The walls given bv Hcrod 10 the tenl-
pie came from Babylon. and Cicero
describes the magnificnce Of the cnl-
broi dcred robes of Babylonian work
worn by Tarquin the Elder. Gradu-
ally the Romans learned TO embroider.
and after the Introduction II Chris
tianity into Europe and the founding
of religious houses. the art became
Of great Importance. and almost
science, the designs being contributed
by artists. and lavish expenditure
Of tims and money bestowed &c
bring The work to high
state Of perfection. At one time
only the borders of garments wero
worked. and as the name If Phrvgium
gradually died out. the Latin words.
BruStHs BruddtHS. AHrobrits. were
substituted to denote necdlcwork. and
from these the French Broidcrie and
the English Embroidery are derived.
From the first 10 the end Of the six
teenth century. Italy was looked upon
rs the center of embroidery work. tho
Popes Of Rome selecting from all coun-
tries the most beautiful specimens. and
ordering that costly presents of neoCSe-
work should be made by the faithful
10 the churches and religious houses.
Up to the time Of the wars If the roses.
English embroidery was justly famous.
but il then languished. and when the
taste for il revived. il was never again
executed with the same amount Of
gorgeous simplicity. the patterns be-
coming too overloaded with ornament
for true taste.
On the continent during this period
the work flourished with increased
vigor. and in Paris the embroiderers
formed themselves into guild. and
were held in high esteem. grants Of
land being frequently given for their
handiwofk.
The reformation may be said to have
given the death-hiow to church work.
and through it to some 4 tho finer
sorts If embroidery. Churches wero
no longer allowed to De decorated witt,
altar cloths. priests robes were almost
abolished. aud Nc converts CHE great
sch, ols of ari) were DESTROYED.
Daring the rcigns of james l. and
Charles not only CT 1el work but
verT sne embroidery was lne urol
silk aud saiip foundations. for secular
purposes. but this nevcr attaine the
dignity aud eos,liucss u the church
work Tho chief patterns were
heraldie devices portraits and flower
pieces.
Daring the wars between Charles l.
and bis Parliament. Royalist ladies'
were fond of eubroidering miniatures
Of King aud working into them the
real hair of the monarch; mention il
made in old chronicles Of the graui-
ing of hair for that purpose. After
the King execution these miniatures
were in great demand. and were
treasured in sacred relies. aud many
Of them eau still be seen in a good
state Of preservation.
In the earlier part of the present CEN
tury fine embroidery was succeeded by
a coarser kind. into which large human
figures were introduced. whose hands
and faces We're not worked but painted.
while their dresses and surroundings
were either worked in crewels or silks.
Embroidery then sank to its lowest
ebb. church work had entirely disap-
peared. the fine silk work became oue
of date. and the only work that at all
flourished was the mechanical copying
of Berlin patterns. first in tent and
finally in cross stitch; but he revival
of the taste for design. iostcred by tho
exhibition of 1851. produced fayora-
Bile change in needlework. aud from
that date old work has been hunted ur
and copied, and artists have emulated
each other in pointing ont the differ
ence between good and bad designing
in fresh patterns. and at present both
church work and EN- broidery for homo
uses are carried to a. great perfec-
ton as. if not actually surprising. the
needlework of the Middle Ages. Dur
ing all these changes in the history of
European needlework the art of EN-
broidery in the East may be said to
have remained in the original state. =
nr~n-nfa,- S,t.I