New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-04-29
SUMMER GOWNS.
NOTES ON BoNNETS AND BOOTS.

NOTES ON BONNETS AND BOOTS.
Summer afternoon gowns will DO made Of bengaline,
figured brillisnnes mohar, Indian silks and wool
bIggones in sheer qualities scarcely heavier than q
taots SILK These gowns are made up in dainty ornate
STYLES which characterize semldress Bepgaline,
which promises TO DO exceedingly popular for this
purpose is an old-tlmo poplin under name whie
brilliantnos mohairs simply revival of the
oldtme alpaca now reappearns after lapse of many
years in figured patterns. Accessory trimmings OF
velvet in dark artistic hues used on these gowns
harmonring with the old India and tapestry coorngs,
shown this season in bengalincs and silks.
Similar trimmings Of velvet used the figured
mohairs Though the mohars thus far shown arc less
effective than the slken pure wooen fabrics In color
the white grounds hard bueish tint Of white and
the silvery shades have almost metallic lustre The
Suede shades lack all tho sofness which characterize
tho undressed glove, tint perfectly reproduced only
In SOFT duIlfaced wool. Most Of these gowns men
toned, with the exception of biggones made up In
solid costumes. Tho skirts fully draped jabot
OF creamy Mechln lace sometimes borders the narrow
panel Of dark velvet at the sde and vest OF similar
Lace with the velvet panels on either side ornaments
the basque. A wide scant founco borders grounds
OF bengaline on the bottom and trimmed with three
borders of morc ribbon about an inch in width.
cluster of long loops and ends of velvet is set far
back among the full bouffant back draperies OF the
gown and similar cluster Of ribbon catches up tho
drapcry Of the dress at the side tho front The
basque Of this gown is finished with vest striped
with ribbon with of velvet and velvet cuffs.
Gowns OF wool blggones are often made up in com
bna.ion with pladed surah silks for afternoons
Imported models of Suede colored biggones made
UP in combination with SILKS in many brilliant hues
and shades. This silk forms the underskirt nearly
concealed by bouifant draperies Of bggone and the
blouse-lke waist finished by short Russian Jacket
Of biggone edged with red embroidery Of ecru null
Tho sleeve Of this Jacket was quite bouffant
~ and auta nv Ia mint
Of red embroidery coming from the shoulder and a
cuff of embroidery and velvet high straight collar
Of velvet finishes tho neck.
The bonnets and hats made by the leading private
milners characterized by refinement of style and
to avoid the of bizarre effects. Comparatively
little unsel Is seen among these bonnets. Flowers
loops and bows Of grosgrain ribbon and soft cluster
ings Of point dcsprt lace, arc the principal trim
mings used Tho charming English turban Of straw
in the long shape, becoming to American girls, is
finished with brim Of velvet full pulled in front and
plain at the back, and trimmed with soft cluster OF
point desprt and largo natural bunch Of tiny button
rose buds with loaves and stems, and long, slender
spiked ornament Of gold at the side. Another turban
bound with plain velvet is trimmed with full cluster
Of black and white tips and black lace and few loops
of ribbon. Pale apple groen straws, shade popular
with black dresses, arc trimmed with large negnge
bows Of pale green grain and full soft bandeaux
little shlred bonnet Of red Grape yelled with illusion
dotted with large faccted beads Of Jet Full peatDgs
Of Chantlly lace and loops of coquecot rod
ribbon trim the hat. bonnet Of white chip, orna-
mented with applique figures of Chantlly lace caught
down with gold beads is finished with narrow brim
Of gold, yelled with lace large bow Of yellow
and white ribbon IN tie knot OF which is run chased
gold ring and brides of black Chantilly lace, bonnet
OF red point dospJtt Is borered entirely around the
brfm with glossy wreath Of green ivy leaves and red
holly berries. A little capoto bonnet OF mixed blue
and white straw is trimmed with long looped bows of
blue gros- grain ribbon with fine edge of gold metal
Full clusters of white vioets complete the trimmings.
Bonnets of black Chantily lace popular with New
York women for dressy Brims OF fine Jet loops
of black velvet or satin ribbon and bandeaux of pink
roses or ivy leaves trim these bonnets In some cases
a stem Of carnation pinks, with ful-oiown blossom
and half blown bud and leaf IS the flower trimming
Of black lace hat Great irregular cactus blossoms,
ragged robins, wild cherry blossoms and old garden
blossoms OF any kind copied with fidelity to nature
are preferred to exotic roses for trimming.
surah Jackets In blouse shape with trimmings Of sill
or gold tinse sometimes called theatre Jackets
because of their popularity abroad among theatre goeS
who do not appear In full DRESS worn In this coun-
try for matnees with any skirt the may fancy
They are made In red surah with trimmings OF gold
tlnsel or In pale blue pink surah with trimmings
Silks in fancy Oriental patterns, with high collars and
are slashed at intervals In buton-holc stitch the
borders, through which morc satin ribbons
In and for ornament There IS nothing dstiDctively
In French matlnees Of white Bainsook Trimmings
OF Valenconnes lace have superseded all others for the
time These gowns are usually In two pieces. The
skirt is nounced, each ounce dalntiy tucked with the
needle, and edged with lace, tho bottom of the skirt
being finished with three falls Of lace, the two lower
supported by rufes under tho rule, CIV
Ing fun bouffaDt effect to the edge Of tho skirt
Matinee sacques fitted at the back and loose at the
front with full vests Of lace tied with more
satin ribbons. Deep high bands finish these sacques,
and now feature Of spring matinees is fall Of poaed
lace In the neck Large, loose matinee sacques Of
cream white Grape cloth shocked in honeycomb
pattern in close yoke shape around the shoulders
caught In at the waist with grdle Of white more rib
bon and finished with full sleeves. drawn in at the
wrist in emo honeycombed work Dimity lawn Is a
fine sheer material in tiny colored dot and spring
design, used frequently for very simple coored
mstinee gowns TO DO worn In ones room.
Silk skirts Of colored tafetas in changeable effect
finished on the bottom with two pink ruffies
surmounted by wide hounce in deep saw-teeth and
also pnRed, are exceedingly popular for underkrts in
Faris Undershrts are also shown IN plain duchesse
finished with simple pleating on the edge Plain bal
morals for substantial made of black or gray
monadr, ana range IN price from 81 upward BuStes
arc considerably smaller than those worn last season.
and those made Of crossbar muslin. in which the
may be removed whom they laundored preferred
during the summer to the pad hustle OF hair
Dealers who are authority in gloves say that tan
ooiofeo gloves retain their popularity although stone
and pearlgray gloves very fashionable, and they
estimate that ten Of tancolored gloves to one of any
other are sold among fashionable women. The but.
toned glove Of dressed kid, ranging from four to SIX
buttons, Is worn exclusively in the morning with street
costumes while the Mousquetaire glove in oight
to twelve button length is the accepted glove for after
noon for theatres, for receptions and any semdress
occasions. The glove for dress occasions Is Suede
Mousquetaire which Will fully turn the elbow, or
long glove which viii reach up to the shoulder These
are the arbitrary rules Of the glove, but are avoided
often by persons who careless Of such mnutlae and