The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-05-05
MISS FLORA MFLIMSEY."
THE WOMAN OF FASHION AND
HER MAKE UP.

BOnnet-FrOckS ana GOwnS-HoN
to Make Them and What to Max
Them Of
NEW YORK, May 3.-Fashion has bee
growing more comprehensive and divers
fed for many years; but the addition {
every new idea seemed only to create nor
and more confusion. The majority {
women could not rid themselves of tn
fixed impression that fashion was our auto
crat, whose sum total of mandates the
were bound to obey But it is beginning t
dawn upon them now that there are fash
ions and fashions; fashions which exist fo
some and not for others, fashions which ar
only known to a limited number, and which
the majority would not want to copv i
they had the chance.
1t is the misfortune of those who seek in.
formation in regard to what they shall and
what they shall not wear, that that ha
only been considered fashion which came
within the reach Of the few; the needs OF
the many were ignored. This has beer
natural, because it is in this limited direc
ton that the new things appear, and il is
by the few that the new departure. in anv
direction, is first made. But q certain order
and classification are now growing out of
our heterogeneity, which demand attention
and will solve many problems. A very
large class of intelligent, professional
women are setting their own fashions
working them out in many instances for
themselves, and making a standard which
others are glad to accept. AS yet they are
at disadvantage. Our fashion books and
fashion plates are all reproductions of Ger
man or French STYLES, and give only thar
Nubipb &c haUnn6 tho
suited to common. everyday needs.
Yet original productions are not only i'm
possible, because SO costly, but we have be-
come SO welded to certain conventional
ideas and modes, that originality is not
appreciated; it has to creep in by Slow de-
grees and mask itself under some accented
form. You cannot force coffee instead of
chtcory down the threats Of people. if
they are used to chicory and determined
to have 1t. Neither can you induce them
to get rid Of that which they have been
educated to consider the highest expression
of taste.
Still, an advance has been made. Those
who began some years ago by being practi
cal and questionable, now set the fashion
for the majority. The women who wear
low-necked evening dresses, gold embroi-
dered dinner gowns and silk underwear.
are very few; those who wear wool high at
the neck with long sleeves and a serviceable
cloak or jacket, are very many. There is
no need TO enter crusade against ''Miss
Flora McFlimsey." She is charming con-
tribution to the social life, the history and
literature of the world. Who does not adj
mlre her daintineSS-when she is dainty
her dellcacy, her softness, her laces. her
never-ending variety which stimulates tbe
rest of the world to song and heroic deeds
which breaks the hearts Of men with adj
mlratlon and women with envy, but is only
languldly and temporarily interesting to
her
Then she gives so royalty what she no
longer wants, yet what some women. who
have only imagined such luxury, but never
seen IL, would almost die to possess. How
can they conceive that because there is a
later cut or newer tint, the magnificent
garment should have lost its value. the
rlch fabric Its prestige in her eyes? 1t is
Tor this 1mperlous and imperial demand |
that genius and skill are constantly exer- |
clSed. 1t Is this which create new want; /
and forces the world to supp.r them. The |
high novelties in silks, through which the
color glows i'll fitful rainbow flashes. are
Tor this regal creature, who has been satiat-
I'd with contrasts and sickened with har-
MONIES For her are manufactured bizarre
Bengalines, plaided on one side, striped on
5he other, so that the bewildering effect she
always produces may be heightened and
he wltchery of surprise added to her fasci-
nations.
As BRIDE she is a Respondent queen. in
ralned satin and embroiderieS of silver.
Ter tiny feet pressing flowers, her veil
lropplng orange blossoms and exhaling
helr fragrance. Yet prestol a moment,
nd she Is demure mouse in gray robes of
WOOL and watered silk, with only a faint
little Indication nf her. col il, l. Il,
ering ornaments, half concealed of steel
md silver
Inc charm of her is that she seems to be
'erfectly Indifferent to her clothes. Yet
gu never can tell how she will look or what
he Will appear In next. She may be gor-
eous flower in poppy red and cream lace,
ecked with hundreds of yards of ribbon,
T she may announce herself-always smil-
ngiY-as reduced to this one poor gown of
@hlte flannel, with nothing but its last
ears folds between her and restitution
Mess her dreadful dressmaker-who never
eeps her word-sends her home something
? wear: You know she has stacks of clothes;
iosees full and wardrobes full; bu you for |
we her, you even sympathise with her and
2 lhK the dressmaker ought to be ashamed
[ herself. Is it because she is ALWAYS snil-
" ana apparently sweet-tenpered? Ger
AMY she always knows what she wants
III Always geUs 1t. ShelS heavy tax upon |
or community, but what would the world
without herl 1t would be a gray nun
cry New England village in Puritan
mes, perpetual study in black and white
a IL nard lines, without tints or shading. I
mere is not many of her. The reason
my she Is talked about and occupies such a
Fge space is because she always fills the ;
age. When she is present no one else is
oserved. She radiates, she corruScates, she s
asnes INTO light or subsidies into darkness. {
ne occupies no middle ground. She wears {
or garments black and trailing like the
Ight;" or spangled and cut six inches from I
le ground like ballet girl. She has ap-
aSIeiltly no fixed tastes, for she sometimes I
AeS one thing and sometimes another, and I
oythlng pieases her long. l
Last week box came from Paris How G
contents would have made some women's
Us giisten. Her maid put the dresses on a c
~. or lay figure, which is a copy of her t
W. There was a lovely costume OF black 9
lce over silk, trimmed with fine and curl {
Us embroidery in colors. 1t was accom- {
ahied by mantle Of lace over silk, with {
hg pointed ends, very straight and very
lorI on the back, and with falls of rich j
~, Ge tor sleeves, outlined with embroidery I
nc mat upon the dress. The hat of lace was {
~, iiilIned with flowers, which reproduced 7
~ r, uafk and rich mixture of color. 7
uere was walking suit Of gray cloth, !
inIned with a cut steel pnssementerie that S
as as, me as lace, and had the effect Of beau {
i iti embroidery; and a peach colored wool, /
I'm I'm selvedge border, draped at the side '
N, panel of peach and white striped /