Los Angeles daily herald., 1888-02-26
STYLES AND FASHIONS.

For fuli-dreSS toilets the deml-traln-
ed skirts are in great favor in New
York this winter for afternoon re-
ception and dinner gowns. The
fronts are made in directoire style,
fiat from belt to foot, without hip dra-
perry, and are laid in irregular plaits
with that in the middle being broader
than all the others. A broad trim
ming crosses the foot and may con-
sist of ruche or pinked founces, but is
more often brocaded border woven
in the three breadths in front and
sides, or else it is of a very rich lace
or passementerie placed flat, with
its scalloped or pointed edge turned
upward.
: Gowns Of tulle in quaint colors are
worn at balls and are trimmed with
flowers or else with ornaments of
silver or gilt in the form Of leaves
and vines. The skirts are made of
the correct dancing length, just rest
ing on the floor. In some Of these
gowns the skirt is laid in large plaits
from belt to foot, in others the back
breadths hang straight and full.
Evening toilets, both for young and
married ladies', are composed of silk
and there is an immense variety in
the patterns and textures of the silken
materials. Plain and MORE silks are
combined with figured broche silks
aud satins, chiefly in stripes. Some
plain MORE silks are seen striped
with the same material in satin, the
wider stripes ornamented with gar
lands of raised flowers. On other
fabrics the ground is of satin in pale
color, and the flower pattern on this
to answer is outlined delicately yet
sharply on the rich deep pile. Be-
tween the wide stripes are narrow
ones in darker shade of satin, figured
with velvet spots and sprays with
silk broche pekins with scattered
flowers in their natural colors on the
light or dark satin stripes. These
are employed for dressy evening
toilets, especially for married ladies.
Very costly silk dresses for evening
wear for young ladies are of delicate
hues embroidered with silk to cor
respond and trimmed with point lace,
silver and gold lace. The draperies
and pleats are often caught back, or
ornamented with tassels of the same
colors as the foundation stuffs and
the trimming, should this be in gold
or silver.
In the way OF gauzes some very
pretty costumes have just made their
appearance from the Paris market
and are already attracting some con-
siderable attention among the leading
dealers in this line of goods. They
have mottled appearance and are
extremely bright, and glisten like
pounded ice, the effect being obtained
solely by the weaving and without
admixture of metallic threads. These
and the tulles and tarlatans travers-
ed by narrow semi-opaque lines, and
others covered with tiny woven
specks no larger than q pins point,
are now infinitely perferred to plain
tulle, which looks poor and dull by
their side, and is more often used to
soften down the brilliance of satin
than for any other purpose.
The new gauzes are simply made
up, generally with a double skirt
the second one slightly draped-and
mounted on taffeta underskirts,
which are trimmed round the edge
with a double frilling (very little
gatheredl pinked out in vandykes.
Ribbons are the only suitable trim
ming, and for this purpose both faille
and satin are used one or two inches
and half in width. Often the up
per skirt is bordered with the
narrower of these two ribbons, or
few bands of wider ribon may be
seen here and there and finished off
with a loosely-made bow. Some
times bows Of libb3n are scattered in
different parts of the upper SKIRT with
out any attempt at regularity, while
at others the decoration consists of q
cascade of loops and long ends placed
on one side only, or on both little
below the hips, SO as to tuck up the
material panier fashion. Plain silk,
satin and watered silk bodices of the
same color generally complete the
gown, with draped berthas Of gauze
and shoulder knots. When seen in
the day time the yellows and blues in
which these gauzes are produced
look rather deep, but by gaslight
they are very pretty shade, the
yellow being just dark enough to look
VoIl e night. All tho pinks, pearl
rreys and lilacs, on the other hand,
~ 4 ~ paloGt po1dble ebode. The