The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-01-15
~ THE ETERNAL CITY.


= ,be Journey had boon long ana tedious, 30
mm ~. ,ho excellent accommodation OF the
ms du ouirinal. in Rome. was duly appreci-
nv nv oeneclally before It became apparent that
go nv no means a cheap house. Its situa-
L. L. IL excellent. facing the obelisk. the foun-
.s,n and the two celebrated horse tanners OF
.sa souare. Rome has distinctly advanced Of
,.,a vears in the matter OF hotels and a few
.,h.r toms, as becomes the absolute capital OF
N. whole peninsula; In others, it Is still what
=, sver was, with the unfinished aspect SO I'M
.,nected In q city commenced SO long ago.
Tho erst impression on re6ntering 1t Is again
that Of the universal untidiness OF the town
s.a Il. inhabitants, to be accounted for only by
tbc fact that people and buildings have had
10 than sufficient time TO forget and lay
aside habits OF discipline and regularity, IL they
.vor owned them. This element OF disorder is
narticularly noticeable In the t~horoughfares;
ssry fev streets have sidewalks, so that all the
.r.mc pedestrians, vehicles. carts, cattle, and
hors.s got inextricably and hopelessly mixed
nm There is, however one refreshingly neat
not IN Rome, on tho other side OF tho Tiber.
ronnd and above San Pietro Montorio, the
.hurch where the hole Is shown In which st.
po,cr,s cross once stood. The view from that
mint IA lovely, and possesses q charm OF
h0mellness, IL NV Ns 80
inc everywhere else.
The Romans call the weather they are having
now. and have had since the beginning OF De-
eember, simply vile: yet barring q goodish
amount Of mud. two or three wet days, and a
naucity OF the credited blue Italian skies, the
stranger fails to see the %vileness. 1t has not
been cold, certain hours Of the afternoon are
~perfect, and the inhabitants would seem to be
syen greater "cavillers than the Londoners. II
the real trouble, not one Immediately apparent
10 the uniniliatcd, was not the continued
prevalence OF the dreaded sirocco. Looked
upon at first as q fanciful foe, as a soft
warm wind, 1t produces after a time n constant
headache and q certain depressed lassitude,
which render the heavy and exacting du-
ties commanded by The autocrat "a
deker all the more cxhausting. After
having maturely studied the contents
and conscientiously followed the indications OF
the dreaded volume, ones opinion becomes
fixed. The ruins are tlrst-class. art in every
shape can nowhere be better represented.
the churches and palaces vie with each
other In quality and quantity: but what
really In Rome takes the cake is the
variety. the finish. the persistency. the abso-
lutte perfection of its smells. There is some
thing almost refined about them, and you must
end BY finding one to your taste. II may begin
S 81 f1 fnsonsis yen d WITH t fas i y4D 5aIly a1d Of m n.
Eternal City is the superabundance OF its water
supply. the overflow of It's countless fountains,
With every natural appliance within easy reach.
the impression conveyed by the s.. T. Q. r. is
not one Of frequent additions or nice attention
surteited with the gloriss OF. art and nature.
8 2: r. has become slack, careless. and
However, s. P. @. r.. individually. In the
flesh. is pleasant. gentle. polite, obliging, and
the women frequently pretty; AmHS!ne the
6pagnR there are fine faces. and lovely flower
girls come bounding toward you, to thrust
a &. mu IL to of Isaies. He d im ssRsssmen and ia
hotels has. in a great measure. extended to the
shops. They are we'll and tastefully, supplied,
t Sus n %ssssaGis on of lii Rs' srs bys NO en MEANS eIe ana
This may be the consequence of the jubilee.
and yet at the commencement OF the month
Boarding boa s' HOUSES s. and p furnished ei'i a IaH noesis;
were empty. The jubilee gifts to Leo XIII. are
stiil arriving In shoals, and 1t is q curious
fthe Vatican, to see prelates diving into cases.
unearthing a r%eliQuary or crucitix; princes
siuP Pss m;aS the unpaySbkiin Z: Of works Of art.
geneous objects. from the butter and cheese OF
Switzerland to the Bible Of the King Of sa1ony,
i ssSaE psi'ssls one g ss1 ,b tS # th Si bfa Ss . Of m 5st,eee d
9th OF January. the day fixed by the Pope, be-
their gifts, and The one on on Which he Wishes siSee,tt to
acknowledge the offerings Of Christendom in
the inaugurating ceremonies Of his jubilee.
many garnered will be tina Of a Trappist monk.
Leaving the carriage to visit the Catacombs
ana walking, up to a one-roomed habitation,
asked to write ones name In a book. His soli-
tary apartment is q sort Of universal providers
estsDllshment on q minute scale. You may be-
Kln nv III phn 4 pu a ALI n ~ N kNNtk n-l --@
ceed TO polish 1t up afterward with dentifrice
soid on ths premises. On inquiring if there is
N .nS community q French-speaking Father.
maven. prominent-nosed. bright, active monk
appears, who forthwith addresses the visitors
N voi9Pie Italian. Being asked with some con-
answers in the dHs pu aessh' G ia IIieue1As N nea gol a nil
Mays " to pass for an italian, but no one is
s sSsrm siasa sd in;u He sn pr0 msst himself d1ass.ti to BE- be-. a
sonSi ne presented the travellers with lighted
candles candle begging them not to set the Cata-
:o@s d[aiculltty; IN %mane PuMfirsEsi in @ ZIG ya aits
Il gradually leaked out that he came from the
rye NJ Indication Of a VOCATION q eali Tor ' holy or ae
atai%sd BY bis mother s.. ,Potin . that his rel;
S SSisAln II exchanging his former social status
III S3wi but that he was quite content to
snare s iRei IL ss Ssf' toiIin mo Iifs. BY Tb sIsn n onl =, and nd
hssn uvn. breeding, refinement. and culture had
SSsn Ssste 70 aPg the convent garden. when SUM
Xitsr |, he sn fasc siIrahgerS TT 9ysp she t SSst nsst ds:
PPgEG ~ nan to meet Familiarity is the Cardinal
nance nsss H1henlohe, Great Almoner Of. his Holi:
s sssS; A. a. was and has, remained, in spite OF
tsrAn Ambassador in Berlin. When both
S tSsii 3 budding diplomat-they. met. and
sin SShd between them which the Gull
imno1..oan OF their diyerging careers has been
WappveiSnt 70 sever. Once again has the Cardinal
PsnSIIS erected the Kings Ambassador In the
scmns,Sity, who In his turn insisted upon ac-
Iitsp atnrylhg him to the door OF his carriage.
embraoaas Warm-hearted Italian fashion they
Inc Tf J publicly on the street, as chum part
~ III ehum, but II would be invidious to
Ststt.aa ms cordial embrace of Church and
6ieSsss political significance or a guerdon OF a
one n reconciliation; and the friendship so
Isl" ilH1Apressed OF two high-minded, honor
evan hmCeral,minded gentlemen would not
Ia is%siing u lrown on the aristocratic brow OF
Tbbsarous, suspicious, and omnipotent Crispi.
and rsardinal owns the Villa d'Este at Tivoli,
stsnt' saues there; the Able Llszt was his con-
hs% Euest, and while with him wrote many OF
naas,r usieai compositions. The busts OF the
Of tha n;, IRE proiusely scattered in the rooms
nsntp W v',a, ana the Cardinal points to a battle
In onssa wnlch he was wont to skirmish around
ioatS 9oo 81 Inspiration. He always was very
than H. pay before the Cardinals guests, but
piano se most would quietly sit down at the
Positions tnHrposeiy murder some Of his com-