The Lebanon express. (Lebanon, Linn County, Or.) 1887-1898, 1888-07-27
i MOURNING DRESSES.
Fabrics Employed in Their Constrastign bs
Leading Dress Makers

Fabrics Employed in Their Constrastfgn by
Leading Dress-Mxkers-
Striped crepe de Chine woven very
thin il the new fabric for summer
mourning dresses. The stripes are of
different degrees of thinness, some like
gauze, and those next them like sum-
mer Bengaline. or else with corded
stripes in clusters, or hair lines on a
thin stripe next border stripe. or per-
haps every other stripe is lightly em-
broidered; broad stripes over an inch
wide are considered most stylish.
There are also barred China crapes
that are very handsome. the bars
being like open rows of braid. aud the
centers crinkled like japanese Grape.
The plain China grapes are now made
in very fine qualities. and are so en-
tireIy without luster that they are
shasen for tho most elegant toiLestes to
Be worn in the deepest mourning.
Grenadines have been little used for
two or three years. but are now re-
vived in great variety. For first deep
mourning are sewing-silk grenadines
of plain surfaces. so closely woven that
they do not require silk beneath them;
lighter qualities are like silk muslin,
ami the gaze de Chanabery is similar
fabric of glossy thin silky black The
onen-meshed silk and wool Hermann.
with all the armure, canvas and iron
grenadines. is again used. either quite
plain or else with new striped patterns
alternately like Grape, or like Benga-
line of the twilled peau de sole. each
stripe from one to two inches wide.
making effective patterns for over
dresses above plain grensdine skirts
For those who dislike stripes are fig
ures of Greek keys and large balls.
or Gothic arches of duh silken surface
sunk in open armure grounds. and
there are many Spanish lace designs
woven quite thick on their surfaces that
recall the fancy for brocades. The
more opaque camei's hair grenadines
have hem-stitched border along one
selvage to use for trimming, and these
excellent fabrics are also striped and
barred in many ways For half-mourn-
ing the more iustrous silk grenadines
have ribbon stripes of taffeta edged
| with white. or else they have double or
triple lines of white woven in twills.
Nuns vailing remains the popular
summer fabric for mourning. just as
| Henrietta cloth is for winter dresses
Ii is of varied thieknesses, and has its
own trimming in its wide selvage,
which is always an inch in width. and
| in the better qualities is two or even
| three inches wide. There are also
many striped vailings, those with
repped silk. like BengaIine, being very
handsome For evening dresses worn
| in mourning the large-meshed Brussels
nets are used in layers. as tulle is ar
ranged. also in plated founces with
ribbon trimming. India silk is worn
in solid color in deep mourning. but.
even in its best qualities, is not found
so satisfactory as thst with white
figures; it becomes s.stringy," and does
not wear well otherwise Bayonnaise
is a barege-like fabric much used. by
French modistes for summer mourn
| ing.
For thicker fabrics tamise cloth of
smooth plain surface and pure wool is
chosen for seaside and mountain wear,
| while for travelling are Cheviots of
light quality. bison cloths and serges.
| or else the Sicilienne mohairs that re-
semble alpaca, but are more broadly
| woven. like the basket-weaving once so
popular.
English Grape is less used for trim
mings for summer gowns, and many
families object to it altogether, using
folds and plaitings of the dress goods
with dull jet and ribbons instead The
dull lusterless gros-grain ribbons are
excellent trimmings for nuns vailing
and India silk dresses. while gauze
ribbons are used on black net-Har-
ser's Basar.