Springfield daily republic. [volume] (Springfield, O. [Ohio]) 1887-1888, 1888-04-21
vANDeRsILT,s MAJOR ooMo.
His Theory of Dining a Fine Art-Ths
Advantage He laims.


Joseph Dugniol, the cook to whom it is
said Mr.. W. *. Vanderbilt is TO give Sl0,'
900 year. is well built little man only
about five feet tail. He was born in Bir.
mingham, England. He looks like an
| Euglishman, and speaks the language
with a strong cockney accent, and be has
au Englishman's love for boxing and uses
the slang of the ring. His parents, he
says, were French.
III were rich enough not to have to
worl :" he said, Il should still do my
| business for the love of it. | am All
artist, and have invented u new school
of dining. Because man is rich he can
not eat more than poor man, and yet the
idea OF a fine dinner has been to give a
great number of courses. II is q mistake.
When a man has eaten his oysters, his
soup, his entrees, his fish, what chance
has he to enjoy his mutton or fowls
When he has eaten all, his stomach is
sou and he raised his hat with both
hands slowly above his head to indicate
the effect of the fullness.
Il make him want to eat First he
must be hungry, and then l put things
before him so that he wants them. If
want him to eat oranges. for instance, /
offer them to his neighbor. He sees them
and asks for them"
He comes from the Maison Paillard, in
the Chaussee d'Antin. s'It is only q little
place." he said, with ouly sixteen tables.
When went there the business was all
run down. built it up by treating each
person as if ne were my guest, and study
ing his tastes"
The little director is an autocrat al the
table. He does not let his guests have
whatever they like for fear it may clog
their appetites. 81 make them ask for
things and keep them waiting. Suppose
have served dinner like this today: A
soup, some fish, and woodcock, with
coffee and fruit. Tomorrow my customer
asks for woodcock. i am sorry, sir, but
cannot prepare it, But in q day or two
he will ask for it again. and then | let him
have it. II l let him tire of anything
then my art would be gone"
A great advantage which Mr.. DuGuiol
claims for his system is that it leaves him
so much greater variety of food to offer on
different days. Suppose, he said, II
cook everything that is to be had for one
great dinner, what is there for to-mor-
rows'
1t is not to be supposed from this Ian
guage that Joseph is going TO cook any
thing with his own hands. He does not
even profess TO be able to do this, although
his father was restaurateur and Joseph
grew up in the business.
Il can cook many things" he. said,
land | can carve as few men can, but /
can tell the cook how TO prepare his food
and warn him if he has failed to secure
the proper favor"
1t may be interesting to know how
Joseph will serve woodcock to Mr.. Van
derbilt. 1t will be cooked only ten min
utes before it is brought on the table. Il
will bring it on while the iish is being
eaten, aud / have an alcohol brasier on
the table. 1t has u sauce of red wine and
gravy in it. carve the bird and put all
the bones aud back into the sauce. The
odor and appearance of the bird excites
the appetite. 1t takes twenty-five, min
utes TO cook wOodcock The bird has
only been cooked ten minutes when
carve it. Now | send the meat back to
the oven for fifteen minutes, and the back
and the bones, in which the richest flavor
is found, are left TO stew. When the meat
comes back it is on hot plate, and |
strain the rich sauce over it.''-New York
SIM