Morning journal and courier., 1888-02-24

| number of little tucks both back and front
| which descend to the waist and there open t.
form part of the fulness in the very full skirts
| They are lined throughout with sicilienne O
| the same shade and have sleeves opening yer,
! wide at the wrist.
| A pretty walking dress is made of brigh
| golden brown ladies' cloth, with a yer,
| high finish. The skirt is edged with
| little cording Of sealskin, above it beins
| many folds of the material in pinked seal
| leps. The long curtain draperies are corded
| with the sealskin, as are the edges of tn,
vest, which is composed of rows of the pinkec
| materials. A pretty little cloth and sealskir
| toque and sealskin cape complete the cos
1 tune.
There has been this winter fashion o1
placing on the right shoulders of decollete
| oersages a rosette-like bow of ribbon, of 6
| shade that sharply contrasts with the pale
color of the gown. As, for example, a
pale pink waist will be adorned with big
| round bow of either absinthe green, French
blue or copper-red velvet ribbon; q pale
green gown will have bow of deep orange
or dark red, while light blue will have
golden or golden brown. Any one of thess
colors is is worn on the shoulders of white
toilets.
Corsages with full fronts are in great
favor for dresses of various materials, from
heavy silks to the thinnest gauzes The
amateur dressmaker will find that this
fulress is easily added, and that it will
improve the simplest bodice. For cotton
fabrics and also for silks it is only nsces-
sary 10 add two or three inches of greater
breadth to the fronts, gathering this full
ness at the throat and at the waist line.
In wash dresses the darts are not taken
up on the outside, but only in tho lining;
in silks, however, the darts are eewed in
both.
Double-breasted corsages are becoming
Roo Co, II
the effect of making them appear shorter
in the waist. Irregular arrangements are
preferred for double-breested bodices, such
as tapping the right side nearly to the left
arm hole, then turning over The top to
form a triangular revers and sloping the
space below back to the middle of the waist
line. Another fancy has the doubled parts
only below the darts, while the upper part
has gathered plastron of silk or lace edged
by collar of MORE velvet, which also
crosses with the lower part TO the left side,
where il is buttoned.
For waits that are too short braces or
bretelles of ribbon are used to give an ap-
pearance of greater length. Two inch rib
bons are folded narrowly to point just
beside the buttons, and are gradually wild
ened until they reach to the collar, or else
the shoulder-seams next the collar when
they again pass down the back, forming a
point at the waist line. Narrow, long vests
ana SlenuGI I6F0TS are also becoming
those with short waists Dianend-shapedr rev.
ers rolled over next narrow vest are in great
favor at present; each revers represents
half an elongated diamond, and may be
made of velvet while the vest is of moire, or
may be covered with gilt beading or galloon
or with lace, and the rsvers be made of
moire
dress high on the shoulders, the straight
edges of the fronts of the dress goods are
carried back to the shoulder seams and the
fulness is gathered along these seams.
Pretty Tapped eorsages have the fulness
carried still further back on the shoulder
seams, and a fabric of contrasting color
| (such as suran, tulle or Brussels nett partly
fills in the. pointed throat, passing around
| the neck and being carried in folds down
| the front, tapping to the left side ct the
waist line and finished there with rosette
or flowing bow of ribbon. For, instance, a
| dress of suede-colored bengaline has pale
| blue China Grape folds in the neck; and
| another of gray yelling striped with poppy
| red has bright red surah folds with in
| side folds of red tulle next the open throat
All the shop windows are now filed with
/ the spring goods. A pretty satine is of
| light shade of old blue, with polka dots o
a darker shade and irregular size strew1
| over it in such a manner as to give tn
effect of stripes Pale gray blue yelling
| are shown in combination with heavy cream
white canvas. with widely separated doubl
stripes of the blue grey in bourette. Al
shades of green are popular in the nev
satines and summer silks; the figures ar
rather large, and are copied from natura
objects, such as leaves. flowers and fruit
rather than the conventional designs tina
were in favor last season. Nearly all tn
veilings and cashmere, chaillies and beagalin
es are made in combinations, most of then
| having skirt and waistcoat of dull white
striped with the color from which the drap
cries and bodice are made.