Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-11-03
RENAISSANCE OF FASHION.
The Practical Versus the PICTURESQUE
In Dress.


THE MAGIC CIRCLE - FRENCH FASHIONS AND
AMERICAN PROTOTYPES OF TEE
CENTRE" AND ''DIREcroIRE" srYLEs-MrRA-
Giles IN MANY CHANGING coLoRs.
From Our Own Correspondent.
New YORK, Nov. 2, 1888.
Fashion has once more accomplished one of
those brilliant tours de force which OF late years
We have no: given it credit for the power to
achieve. Fashion has been overshadowed for
some time past by sense. by hygienic, by prac-
teal ideas, by the effort on the part of workers
to make themselves, their notions and necessi-
ties stand for fashion
We have now a very large and constantly in
ereasing class whose wealth is not only fabulous
IN amount. but keeps constantly multiplying.
10 these people, in this new world, all luxuri-
Gus experiences are fresh and fascinating The
rich American has become the synonym in all
countries for the tabled Cresus, who could ac-
e GO apparent lmpossibilities. He sails up
the Nile in n 'house-boat'' taken from the
Thames; he floats down the Thames in an In
dian canoe covered with Eastern rugs: he
wears the Tartan and '.deer-stalher' in Scot
land. the furred robe Of native in Russia the
conventional cloth and cut of a Bond street
TAILOR In London. and he brings them all to
America, with ways and habits and tastes
picked up In the four quarters of the globe. to
DO grated upon the old Puritan or Celtic stock
and bulid up the great race that is to be.
AS THE MEN ARE, so ARE THE WOMEN;
only moro 30 in certain directions. Their
trunks are filled with babel Of sounds and
voices recalling the glory of Venice, the days
of Josephine minglngs with the tailor-made
tone OF to-day. The tri-color with wide lap
peiS and three huge buttons on the short
Wasted front OF its coat, sits down on giided
chairs and sofas with Mahnaison brocade. and
pokcs the eighteenth century fire with brass
= irons cast in Louis NV mO.ds. Il is all a
dream OF enchantment to be able to do it, We
nave read our stories But to live them! and
IN TINS prosalc age, too. Is it surprising that
fashion Is illusive, when it has so much to draw
from; or that it is at once the most picturesque
ana charming. the most capricious and way
ward the most varied and the most limited
force in existence? For while it draws in turn
from all the world. it is recognizable only by
the distinctness with which a certain mood is
accentuated.
REVIVAL OF THE DRESS OF NAPoLEoNs COURT.
Tins season, the novelty is the Directoire
coat; the adaptation of the dress of the empire
to more modern ideas, and the hat with sweep
ing piumes, in place of the stiff, little upright
wings and ornaments. A typical suit mas "a
straight skirt of fawn grey cloth, braided in
front IN shades Of fawn and brown. The Direc-
tore coat Is cut as redingcote short across
vac iohs. WHICH, opens upon Tue DralCeu pOr-
ton OF the skirt, and shews also the band of
beaver fur across tue bottom. The sides of the
coat are pain--pockets being optional-cnd
the wlde pointed rece7s turned back from the
upper front are faced with fur, and shew a
small: braided vest with high collar to match
the skirt A variation from this consists of
what is called the ''Medici'' collar, which can
be worn outstanding and showing the fur from
the inside or laid fiat. The front of the coat,
below the 'eoers to the waist line is double
breasted, or has that effect, and is fastened
with three large carved mother-of-pearl or oxy-
dsed buttons
The Directoire coat is a very adaptable little
garment; useful a walking jacket yet ele-
g'n' enough. in the proper materials and with
certain conventional notifications for formal
dinners and the evening wear Of matrons. The
Empire" gown is more youthful 1t is usually
made in soft silk, with full. crossed, surplice
waist. showing pointed from. of lace or en-
broldery and narrow breadth TO match, in front
OF the skirt. The bodice is cut the natural
length, but it is somewhat shortened in APP
pearance by the full soft sash. which is knotted
or tied at the sides and hangs down in two
long, unequal ends. This style is quite as
pretty made in thin, fine wool as silk, with
siiken sash and embroidery upon the wool, and
Is then not at all expensive. Simple gowns
made up OF one material and in one color are
always more youthful in appearance than
those that are combined of two or more stuffs
or cOlors; but with lace skirts or thin tissues
draped over silk. it is still the fashion to make
firm, undraped bodice of the richer material
of the dress, or Of a still handsomer fabric in
the same color. than TO use the thin silk and
cover or drape it with lace like the skirt. as
formerly. The lovely tints in evening failles
lend themselves charIningly to the formation
OF such bodices. and can be matched perfectly
In the less expensive silk for the skirt, but
not always in wool. Flowers from one shout
der, crossing the bodice and trailing off upon
the side of the skirt. are used; but II they are
not of the best make and artistically arranged
they are better omitted and sash substituted
THE ACCORD OF COLOR IN DRESS SCHEMES
An important feature Of present fashion and
one that it is necessary to keep in mind. is the
relation Of trimming and all the accessories of
the toilet to the body part Of it. Color strikes
the keynote; and nothing mist be allowed to
interfere with what is called the general scheme
Bunchcs OF roses have disappeared from the
corsage borders. and masses OF dead white lace
from black and colored dresses, and embroid-
cries, jetted ornaments, and color lines or sug-
gestiOns substituted. Many people desire
to know how to make black dress dressy
The very best way is to put the prin-
cipal part of the cost into the silk.
Have that rich. the form simple, and add liz.
tie real thread lace to the neck and sleeves.
and if liked in jabot form, to the sides of a mar
row vest front. The usual mode is to trim q
cheap silk with cheap jet. the most common
loTm Oh cOHlHnCu-piacc. IL Is q less vulgar, be-
cause less SNOWY method, however, than to put
a cheap, coarse lace over n color and in con-
junction with a common cheap silk When
black lace il put over color. and in coniunc-
ton with black silk. all the material should be
of such quality as will bear examination and
impart to them an air Of refinement If jetis
used it should be handsome, but it is better
employed upon fine cashmere than cheap silk,
and rich silk does not require it.
FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC FURs.
The furs of the present season are in great
variety, but the preference is for the deep,
long haired brown, gray and silver fox furs.
Chinchilla. once SO fashionable, seems to be
by common consent to children and
elderly ladies. Young women prefer seal and
beaver: and the married, who can afford to in
dnlge thoir tastes, the fox furs lynx and seal
for a permanent investment. There is greater
range, of course, in trimmings. But MANY of
these. to which high-sounding names are at
tichod, are the product Of domestic animals:
happy use, which rids us of many pests. or at
least prevents their rapid multiplication 1t is
dangerous, however, to make fashion in any
one fur. The American mink acquired an
abnormal value in this way. Rose to imitation,
then sunk almost to extinction, and is
now never even inquired for. Seal has
popularly taken its place, but the cost
always limits the demand and confines
it to garments and articles which
are Injuries rather than necessities.
Furred Innings are more distinguished iust
now than furred outsides. Seal skin ia the ONLY