Wichita eagle., 1888-01-12
WONDERS OF ALASKA.
DESCRIPTION or THE. SCENERY
OF THE INLAND PASSAGE.

Magnificent Appearance of the Coast
Line-yisiting the Indian Cabins-A
Place for -Pioneers-The Wonderful
Muir Glacier-Fall of Icebergs
How shall any one describe the glories of
the inland passage, with. snow capped noun
tains on the main and islands on the opposite
side. rising often to the snow line, staying
the mighty Pacific from rpcking ones
steamer; twelve day trip and the total
course of 1890 miles from and return to
Tacoma, w. T.s Many a scene is like the
Hudson at the Highlands; and many another
like the lEgean sea skirting the coast of Asia
Minor; and still others like Switzerland's
most beautiful mountain bound lakes: while
the general combination, making succession
OF beauties and sublimities, Is purely Alaskan.
Those who contentediy tuck themselves in
their little beds along the Atlantic can have
no idea Of the republican magnifcence Of our
beloved country as she stretches across the
continent and reaches her fingers TO Asia.
So many are the windings in the archipel-
ago and mainland that in Alaska alone our
country has 1900 miles of sea coast. A
large percentage Of the coast line is precipi-
tate from the waters edge, and is clothed
with primeval forests of spruce, fir, pine,
white odorous cedar, and adorned with ar
butulum or other gaudy hardy flowers. OF
the ineShaustible fur seal, salmon and cod
fisheries l need not speak, for they have a
world wide fame.
The rage OF the passengers to visit the
ranches" or street Of Indian cabins in each
10 cyc.v -hora larI 80 tta
widest carving or picture from the most
squahd surroundings, would prognosticate
the grief of other travellers who should come
here only after the Alaskans had entirely
abandoned heathenism, which degrades them,
and been exalted into American citizenship,
for which so many OF them are earnestly hop
ing. Totem poles, Chilcat blankets of Rocky
mountain sleeps wool. black slate carvings,
horn and bone spoons, painted dancing hats
and masks, broidered moccasins, Esquimau
sealhide snow boots, pipes, war clubs, canoes,
paddles, wood tureens, water tight reed has
kets, sharks teeth earrings and necklaces,
gold and silver carved bracelets, finger rings,
armlets, anklets, labrets or lip pins, withe
mattings, gambling tools and the like, were
absorbed by the passengers as readily as sun
light halmlessly drinks the miasma of
swampS.
PLACE FOR PIONEERS.
Were $4,000 of our ambitious toilers in the
Empire city to start for Alaska with their
wives, by either the Northern or Union Pa
eitic railroad, and keep their eyes and ears
open on the way, about IL, 600 Of them would
reach here and make fortunes, and the rest
would find openings en- route for their talents
and energies and create wealth for themselves
all along or anywhere along the lines. Bat
the cornerstone of this prosperity would be
their taking their homes with them, thing
which can invariably be done by every man
if he will In times past the neglect of this
excellence has turned too many of the pioneer
settlers Of our country into drunkards, brig
ands, idiers and brutes Men must carry
something beside their cupdity and avarice;
they must carry their dignity, purity and
hope with them if they would be successful
immigrants
At Port Chester, on Annette Island Alaska
is in process of receiving q thousand Christian
industrious Indians from Metlakathla, in
British Columbia. a settlement organized and
instructed by William Duncan during All ad
miniStration of twenty-sx years, who now
find themselves moving away from the I'M
equal land laws of the Dominion and the rit-
ualistic tyranny of the Anglican church, TO
seek religious liberty and equal rights in our
dear country. We saw little navy Of six
sail, constructed by an Indian boat builder,
leave Metlakathla as the advance division of
this movement, full OF esprit and sober viz
tues When settled they will raise the popu
lation of Alaska to Al 900.
The greatest natural wonder of this trip is
Muir glacier, III Glacier bay This glacier is
about sixty miles long, and five miles from
the bay it is about twenty-five miles wide.
In its course it is fed by nine principal and
eleven lesser glaciers. This accumulated
mass Of ice moves by an memorable law
through gate of mountains only two miles
wide, piling and jamming Itself up into tur-
rets and pinnacles from three hundred 10 a
thousand feet high, grinding the mountains
till they have Welded it a sand beach of
beauty and Smoothness. The near mountains
are from $500 to 1000 feet high; Mount
Grillon, ten miles away, is 1900 feet, and
Mount Fairweather, distant twenty-f miles,
is 1900.
FALL OF THE ICEBERGS.
At its projection into the sea the glacier
travels at the rate of forty feet a day, ava
i1llcEifH ICeDeIS lIllO tuf WIN tuC ScuItS
of thunder and earthquake. These retain
the splendid blue tints of the parent glacier,
when floating around US in great masses,
some of them 400 feet square and standing
from fifty to 100 feet out Of the water The
fall of these icebergs rocks our boat like
Storm and we count twenty-six of them at
one time. But the steamer fearleSsly lies
TO within COO feet of the place of
metamorphosis from glacier to iceberg, her
soundlngs with her longest line showing
no bottom at los fathoms When the iceberg
is first weared from the breast of the glacier
it pirnges almost out OF sight in the sea, then
rises TO its full height as if seeking to regain
its place, and again sinks to rise again and
again till it finally finds its equilibrium and
is carried away by the wind or tide or both
This operation is stupe.sdous and strikes awe
into the soul, and yet casts such weird mag
nifcence OF magnetism over the spirit that
one leaves the Muir with regret.
What an improved American way of doing
a glacier is this. Here there Is no guide, nc
donkey no carrying Your own rations. no
brea.hless climb, 10 dinlinutlve Mer de Giace,
no loss Of altitude, for everything is seen
from sea level: no sleeping over night IN
hospice or refuge q: the half way point; but
to be carried in ease and elegance 10 shake
hands with the mighty glacier, to watch its
operations from the cushioned saloon OF
floating palace; this IS the American way
furnished 20 every corner by the Pacific Coast
Steamship company. To land on toe sandy
beach ami traverse the glacier is an inviting
and easy essay, accomplished in csupie of
hours; and men. women and children AID
more or less Of It according to fancy. The
Muir is the largest of eve important glaciers,
repaviaE tie attention OF the curious and