New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-10-14
NOTES ON FASHIONS.
NO DRESS REFORM NEEDED.

No DRESS REfOnol NbEDED'
Tho designers Of modern fashions are no longer
mindless copyists of the past They adapt ra'ner
than copy fashions Of days gone by Hence we now
have Drcctorc fashions, with tournurcs, and CLASSIC
First Empire Styles with full draperies at the back
The cushion Of hair. long part OF dress Is usually
left out Of the latest French gowns, but to compensate
for this the steels placed higher. though trfne
smaller. Dresses do not cling to tho figure In tho
way shown In pictures OF court beauties In the days
OF the Directory It will be impossible 10 engraft the
coarse fashions Of the Bonapartes upon the refined
society of the present day. Various cccenfrctes are
shown such the carved walking sticks OF the timo
Of Josephine. and STYLES which arc fit only for display
in shop windows under the bold glare of the foot
lights But II Is needless TO say that these fashions
will not appear social gatherings or in Fifth Avenue
The extreme fashions in millinery. which were first
introduced this fall have already disappeared. as was
predicted In this column early In the season Ex-
lonely SIMPLE small capote bonnets will be tho most
elegant choice for winter. The wide bonnet string.
tied In bow under the chin. has practically been
snecred down b. customers, too untldy and uncom-
fort able. Probably most bonnets will be fastened
with tho folded string and made bow under the chin
though bonnets with velvet strings two and half
inches wide are shown by the best houses The long
boa effects which have been fashionable to some ex-
tent all at watering places. are quite likely TO
degenerate into vugarty so that very few hats for
fastdious customers will be trimmed with the feather
boa.
New-York ladies as a rule like neat. compact fash
IONS Every wear the dress OF the refined woman ap-
proaches moro nearly the ideal Of hygenc comfort
and artistic grace. There IS need of dress reform
ers. Dress Is being slowly reformed by woman her
SELF The dress worn by the refined fashlonaoio
woman Is light In weight. 1t IS made over SILK
skirt 1t Is not numbered with any extra material
anywhere II has been the aim OF the best tallors
everywhere to reduce the weight Of their dresses and
tba 10 RI
supports the figure in a manner that is recommended
by tho best physicians It no longer congresses the
figure. The soft wool silk underwear. the black
silk stockings, the fine cambria undergarments, and
the silk pet'icoat with soft knit wooen skirt added
for extra warmth the tailor gown and the long COM
Portable winter cloak. mako up as near an IDEAL outne
from hyg ienlc outlook the most Jealous dress 70
former could desire. The long Chesterfield button
coat, with the heavy. shaggy ulster worn BY men, I'M
pede the walking and is more Of weight TO carry for
the stronger SEX than the light dress at present
IN style for sensiby clad woman. IL Is not a. fasn-
ion makers but at manufacturers of coarse, heavy
cloths that dress reformers should rail- These ara
the ones that make the burdensomc dress OF woman
The tea gown, which was worn last season by the
hostess at high teas. will Will continue during the COM
Ing season to be popular house dress These gowns
always made of soft elm ging Oriental silk wool
fabrics, a combination Of BOTH II Is fashion OK
the add Oriental touch Of color TO these
gowns. There many beautiful surah SIR blouses
and French morning jackets. which Offer with mat
skirts, comfortable negllgee dress for morning
wear at home These jackets are trimmed with tnsel.
velvet ribbons and lace almost way the wearer
may fancy. Tho mos, fashionable gowns are embrod-
cred In Cashmere colors white cloth, which Is ap-
p1ued in various ways the gown. There are also
many pretty. inexpensive figured fannels. which may
be found at shop counters, In dark attractive colors.
figured In Cashmere Pompsdour flower patterns. or
str yrft hhon hand In tuoo r fhrpn
pale blue and pink lines of No. ribbon white or
light background 1t is to be noted here that the
cream whites OF last season not frequently
shown In the new goods as pearl white and pure
white although the yellow tint Is much moro becom-
ing to the complexion, and will be worn by many
women who are aware Of that fact. Silk petlcoais.
founccd with pinked ries and lined with soft. light
wool, to give sufficient warmth. but wadded are
shown In all colors at the shops, and will probably
take the place of the quilted skirt worn heretofore.
The finest underwear is knitted Of wool.
that 1t IS elastic and clings 10 the figure. The
made underwear of merno is being rapidly succeeded
by these although the newest merIno undergarments
are fitted to the figure more than heretofore.
Little childrcn's gowns reproduce many OF the fash
ions Of their mammas. Short WASTED Empire styles
are shown In dresses for girls In their teens, and
especially suitable and graceful fashion for school
girls Thus, for girl OF fourteen, dress Of plaid
cloth is made with straight, killed skirt, slightly
draped at tho top though In cases this drapery
Is omitted The waist is short Dircctore jacket IN
'front.' ending in little position at the back This
jacket falls apart TO disclose fitted vest, formed by
two folded scarfs crossed In front under velvet cir
die aud outlining the pointed velvet pastron at tho
throat This jacket style Is especially popular. FOR
school this dress Is made OF dark navy blue plaid
cross barred by ndistnc lines OF red. The Jacket is
finished with full vest OF red surah. drawn down
close the waist under folded scarf OF red Pipings
NJ rcd the chi do nor Wea
short wasted, peasant styles much this season as
they did last summer unless they are mere babies Of
two or three years Of age, when this bebe style OF
dress considered the proper siylc Young ladies Of
cess STYLES and the blouse fashions. A pretty gown
IS red blouse of Cashmere, the upper part peated
lined IN batiOnRoIe stitch With black cmSTodcry silk
inll sleeves OF the dress are tucked top and bottom
leaving litilc ml pun a. the elbow. Small square
button hole stitch with black SILK Two rolls of but
Ion. hole stitch embroidery surround the otherwise
child Of this age rcacScs coSssaby b a' S U
knee. usually to the middle of he calf
e mms f ve Are s %Ias OF ms sri6 ia nam s,
fashion IS stripe composed Of blue. gray and wins
Of the front and IN he centre ' " e Z bacE o
where Z Is butioned under fold; A sirdle OF dark
cuffs and high sanding collar of velvet conn lee The
dress As rule mothers prefer little frock, with.
49, ioI u scnool dftSs. Long,
double breasted coas OF soft. Hight lambs wool din.
ished With or without trimmings Of plush are the ia.
vorie wrarS for little girls Misses wear the same
s. y ~ cloak. I'm s ci usnsl'v WITH hood a dmfnu.
tive ulster Dressy coaks for little children are su
n ade Of handsome plush
There is especial change In ladies' watches The
dem hunter case and open face wachs In IN styls
OF Louis NV cnanie thc bacL a. painting, ,,-sr
v aueau are newer than the covered face Tbs chstH
lsne watch is passe. TIE short fob chain Is fbe fash
ionabe chain OF the season This may be made as
rich as the purse lern or the taste desire hv .
setting OF costly Jewels. ' "
Thanks arc due TO Mssss. Arnold Constable & Co.
James McCieery & Co., Stern Brothers and tiffany
d Co. .'""'
D0RFLINCER'S T vssr