The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-02-04
FASHION ANDoFITNESS.
ART AS APPLIED TO DRESS OF
MODERN DAYS.

hlA BuSLl9 dllN b-AO 4AACOAA4lSA C44OAASADAO
Costu1ne-Signs of the Times-Some
Toilettes at the Charity Bali
1nonortation of Taste and Tradition
from acknowledgements Simplicity
and Originality -Theory of the Low
Neck-A Revelation in Ivory Satin
Ejaculation Costumes for Formal
Occasions-Studies in Black-Fine
effects of Silk and Wool-Fore-
shadowings of Spring-Prophecies
and Premonitions.
NEW York, Feb. 5.-There are lovely pos
sibilities in dress nowadays if one can avail
oneself of them. But it is discouraging to
find the general result still far from salts
factory and the most opposite words used to
describe and really representing the same
thing. 1t is time that we were approximat-
inc to some sense of the fitness of things, that
we began to recognize the qualities that be
long to evening dress, to morning dress, to
street dress and to even more subtle sub-di-
visions of costume, such as naturally formu-
late themselves in the lives of women of
society. But there are a minority; there is
mucu larger NOllLAAlssChb w LpSc OpDOl bulli-
Ties of display are few and these of a semi
ublic character who air incomprehensible
costumes, who are long in obtaining a new
idea but when they do run it hard and into
the ground, believing that in this way they
are actual exemplars if not leaders of fash
ion. These are the people who keep the big
hustle and give color to the assertion that it
IS fashionably worn. 1t IS they who are
adopting the low-necked ball dress at
=. ~ lk,.,, Sol. IL
are leaving it or.
There is nothing to be said against the
modest forms of low-necked dress-em-
ployed for evening dresS-by ladies, young
and up to middle life, who possess arms and
necks that are neither SO thin nor SO stout
as to attract attention, but become a natural
part of an attractive ensemble. But the
obligation to wear low-necked dress is to
be dreaded. Once it enters the mind of the
female PhiIistine and it cannot be driven
out She will stick to it, like Queen Vic
toria. through thick and thin; thin arms
and thick arms, bones and unmelting flesh
will have to yield.
There are distinct signs of it now. At
the Charity" ball par excellence, the low
neck very pointed to match the elbows,
was in the majority. The style had no
reference whatever to the figure, for in a
large number of cases it would have been
greatly benefited by a doubt, but it was
simply displayed because there is a growing
desire to be equal to the occasion, and be
cause a lOw-necked dress is announced as
obligatory here for evening dress by GER
tain class of persons because it is so abroad
As before remarked, there is nothing to be
said against a modeStly cut low-necked
dress, if the wearer and the occasion are
fitted by it, but there is nothing in our social
life, our institutions or our habits which
obliges us to slavishly copy foreign tradi-
tons that cannot be dignified with the name
Of ideas, irrespective of their adaptability
or prOprlety. American women need to
think Independently and adopt or adapt
from others only what suits them personal
", as well as their position and circum-
stances.
1t is true that our ideas as well as tradi-
tons in dress come mainly from abroad;
that the prettlest gowns, those which make
the sensation, are usually found to be i'm
ported" or closely copied from imported
designs. But this one conventionally beauti-
tul and perfect model re-appears IN hundreds
Of less perfect and beautiful ways upon peo-
pie who use tawdry materials, and whose
general modes and habits are out of
harmony with ultra fashionable styles. IT,
instead of copying, such women have intel
hgence enough to acquire certain refined
simplicity of their own; they Immediately
obtain a reputation for originality and will
ind themselves copied, instead of copying
others. But where one does this, ninety
nine initiate the imitators. and so get
farther and farther away from purity even
OF the conventional idea. In such hands the
Greclan folds or draperies become a closely
gathered and wrinkled string about the
neck, the long garland of clinging flowers,
cheap little punches stuck on without art
or grace. The long lines disappear, and
the natural curves of the soft material, and
IN their place are sharp turns, bnnchlness,
something to hide poverty or scantiness Of
material and a general sense of trying to do
something to which the resources was in
adequate
There are fair and plump women, not too
stout, to whom the half-low bodice, pointed
PACK and front, laid fiat against the fair
SKIN and bordered with fur-otter, for ex-
ample, upon ivory satin--is revelation.
White, tinted and red or yellow are the
rage OF the season. Magnificent reception
costumes are of white satin, covered with
ace and paneled with gold embroidery,
which re-appeaIs upon the bodice.
The most distinguished short costumes
are OF white cloth with pointed vests and
nnSh OF white lambs wool, lambs wool
cSpe and muH. But some artistic girls dis
pay charming costumes of soft, gray wool,
"lth touch of dark red in the vest and
cuIs and red heron's feather i'll the full,
I9uhd, Tam OShanter cap. The informal
character of many of the receptions, the
NUMBER OF club entertainments and the
Growth OF semi-social and semi-literary So
ueteS makes it increasingly possible for
~ol1en, especially young women, to see a
goo deal of varied society without any
great display in regard to dress.
rlVate balls and formal dinners are the
my entertainments that demand peculiar
@lIc1ness and elegance of costume On
S oS5 occasions, informality is out of place,
ouu IL the requirements cannot be met by
,.neligent adaptation of art ideas, to such
sources as are within ones reach and means
oo w. not ADMIT of costly orders from the usual
sulyehtional sources it is best TO give up
tScn forms OF gayety altogether. More Of
f. .e sOIaln which makes life burden, comes
MN tne efforts to do things TO which our
Sr ,oens ana resources are inadequate, than
noln any other one cause. The only way is
ojust stop il
70. mere is nothing in this world so lovely
sill, ~. 1aIl dress for u young girl as white
ro ln Julie over silk sprinkled with quivering
no.. caves striped with white satin or
SnorI, ribbons, or edged with down and
tIe,dAiIlus with tiny snow crystals. All
hail. nave Inquired at Delmonico's and other
r r,,' since the New Year, but not in large
cocti'erS' Tor they are very frail and very
rana{ ana even if the silk underdress be
| tbaouIe OF more than one covering of tulle,
mro IWk OF reconstruction would cost as
| dress. N HioreS do al oiuih"iJ