Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-12-01
IN THE VAN OF WINTER,
Fancies in Fashion and So.
ciety.
THE RESTRICTION OF FEMALE ArrIRE-HUyTING
AND THE PROBLEMS OF MATRrMoNY-MoDIFIED
COSTUME OF THE .'Ar HoME"-NEw p1spENsA-
TON IN wooLEys

From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. Nov. 80. 1S83-Fashion seems to
offer much greater variety to the individual
woman than it really does. This restriction to
what Is suitable to a certain age, to certain
positions and circumstances, is obligatory in
society proper. The girl who has been ont two
seasons proclaims the fact by wearing colors,
by enrichIng her gowns, by venturing on more
elaborate models and combinations and the
occasional display of feathers and jewelry.
She mas not yet got SO far as lace fronts to her
dresses, trains and brocades: these are reserved
for after marriage and the assumption of ma
troniy airs; but, excepting as a BRIDE her
right to all white, pure and simple, is past, and
her white attire must hereafter be of such ma
terial as will differentiate her from the 'rose-
bud fraternity. In all this we follow strict
copy from orthodox styles abroad. There was
time when the young daughters of men who
had become rich wore all the fine clothes. the
laces and jewelry, the velvet and feathers of
the family. We have outgrown that School
girls no longer wear diamonds, and plain wool
or cotton, well made. are more ''lady-like''
than silk, when time and place demand them
Hundreds of good. well-intentioned Ameri-
can mothers suffer tortures of fear and anxiety
in regard to high-minded, aspiring daughters
who are unwilling to be pared down to the con-
ventional pattern, make the usual running for
few seasons. bag their game and retire into
matrimony with the usual problematical
chances of future happiness
NEW DrsPENsArIoN IN WOODEN FABRICS.
November is always distinguished by many
events which mark the opening of the season
and indicate the current in which fashion is to
nnd It's direction Ladies' lat homes" (nfor-
NAL ones) begin in this month MANY weddings
take place: theaters open. and important mu-
seal events, such as grand concerts precede
the period OF grand opera. These are not oc-
casions upon which the magnificent evening
toilets are displayed, which attract attention
later on IN the winter but they afford an on
portunity for much beautiful dressing and for
the exhibition of whatever is new in walking
dinner, and half evening toilets. One feature
| at once remarked is the importance given To
WOODEN costumes, the introduction of CONTRAST
| ing color and rich materials into panels and "a
| parts OF bodice snd sleeves. as well "a in the
| way OF ornamentation. High and light colors
are used in this way; bands OF fur. gold passe.
menterie, and mixtures of eolored silk with
beads or gold cord. Some of these form a la.
i tlce-work, transparent yelling or network
over rich silk, satin, or velvet. but are intarA
woven with material, 30 skillfully arranged
as to be impossible Of detailed descrip-
tlon without losing effects in a sea of words
1t may be remarked. however, that panels in
cloth dresses are either gore-like or narrow:
that when killings arc used they are laid in the
knife form, but no longer tackled down Cat,
but open and close with every movement of the
body. Cream white, red and gold are the
coiors most used as contrasts, and they are
combined with fawn, olive, russell brown and
/ green. This last, in combination with old roee
pink 10 perhaps the most fashionable color Of
the season. 1t u revived in all the shades
which the color has ever known, from darl