Springfield daily republic. [volume] (Springfield, O. [Ohio]) 1887-1888, 1888-06-30
Op0RTO'S RUBY WINE.
CURIOUS AND INTERESTING FACTS
ABOUT ITS MANUFACTURE.

Among the Vineyards Of Land Where
Toll Is Made Picturesque and Musical.
TreadIng Out the Blood Of the Grape.
Testing the Juice.
The Alto Douro district in Portugal,
whence the wine comes, comprises q
series of steep activities and narrow
ravines extending some thirty miles along
the River Douro Golden river and vary
ing i'm breadth from five to ten miles. 1t
Is situated both in the provinces of Traz-
os- s-Montes and Beira, the first named con-
tanning by far the larger portion. The
area of the vineyards is estimated at
about &c, 900 acres In order to prevent
the loose and fiaky soil in which the vines
are planted upon the steep sides of the
hills from being washed away by heavy
rains, the ground is cut away in terraces,
forming succession of steps, their sides
banked up with walls of masonry. These
rows of terraces line the sides of mountain
after mountain, like cyclopean staircases,
and on some slopes as many as $50 may
be counted, rising one above another.
The population of the wine district is
small, and as a considerable amount Of
labor is needed for the cultivation of the
Nlhc thCiC - chAPAOy ihCht lot NlHt-
ayers, male and female, who flock thither
at the proper season from remote regions,
many coming from the province of Galicia
in the north of Spain. The vintage in
September Of course attracts the largest
influx. Dancing and singing on their way
TO the vineyards come bands Of peasants
to the gathering. Women with red and
yellow kerchiefs tied over unkempt
ar.I Inx- L.
and heard-for their singing, more or less
meiodious, Is an invariable accompani-
ment Of the work-all over the hill sides
culling the punches of fruit with small
hooked knives. As the berries are thus
detached and the unripe and unsound
fruit removed, they are thrown into
baskets borne on the arm Of the vintager.
These are enptied into large baskets,
holding nearly u hundred weight, which,
when filed, men, with sbeepskins to pro-
tect their shoulders and plated straw
knots on their heads, hoist on their backs,
and, moving off In Indian file, bear them
along the rugged winding paths and up
and down the steep flights of steps to the
press house.
TOURS OF INSPECTION.
At the principal qnintss agents of the
port wine shippers take up their quarters
Thence they sally forth on daily tours of
inspection, for the purpose of ascertain
ing that the wines their houses have con-
tracted for are fairly and honestly made,
that no unripe or unsound fruit gets into
the lagares, and that the conditions under
which the pressing and fermentation take
place are favorable. Bullock carts go up
and down the dried up stream gullies,
over rough bowldcrs, jolted violently and
discordantly creaking; droves Of nimble
little donkeys, with pig skins full Of wine
dangling on either side from strap across
their backs, or bringing bread for the
vintagers, wend their way along zigzag
bride paths, and farmers with wine SAM
pies and peddlers with their packs on
mules equipped with jangling bells, jog
leisurely over the mountain roads.
Twenty or more varieties of grapes are
used to make port wine. For the most
part they are black, thick skinned and
pulpy, yielding an ample flow Of saccha-
rine must. Arrived at the press house
they are at once shot into the lagares-im-
mense receptacles constructed of solid ma
sonry, with sides about three feet high,
and holding enough grapes to produce
from ten to thirty pipes of wine. When
the lagare is filed the grapes are leveled
with a hoe, and q gang of men is told of
to tread them.
The wearisome operation of treading is
begun by men, who step into the lagares
with their white pants rolled up to the
thigh, and their arms resting ON each
others shoulders. With measured steps
they advance and retire across the lagare,
raising and lowering their feet alternately
at the word of command, fright, left"
as though at squad drill. As the juice
flows, and the fruit is reduced to pulp,
a livelier movement follows. A fiddler
seated on the edge of the lagare saws
away at some merry tune, while some Of
the treaders join in with fife, drum and
guitar, playing and treading simultane-
ously. Songs and shouts swell the up
roar. 1t is difficult task, despite these
ebullitions of enthusiasm. and frequent
nips of brandy are served out by the over
seers TO keep the iazier and weaker at the
task, which is wearisome In the extreme.
Women looking in at the windows ex-
change jokes and laughter with the men.
THE FIRST rREADING.
The sisovar o yinho,n or first treading,
is kept mp with occasional halts and re-
lays of fresh men for about eighteen
hours. After n long interval the treading
is resumed. The fiddle strikes mp anew,
the drum rattles, the fife squeaks, the
guitar twangs, the oyerseers drowsily up
braid. BY this time the grapes are pretty
well trodden, and the men. being nearly
worn out, listlessly lift one purple dyed
leg after another far into the watches Of
the night In testing the quality Of the
mash large white convex saucer is used.
One Of the treaders balancing himself ON
one brawny leg and holding up the other
allows the liquid to drip from off his heel
into the saucer. This is tasted and the
amount of fsugardetermined by the saccha-
rometer. This instrument also indicates,
after the treading is completed and the
Juice Is left to ferment, when the latter
process has gone far enough. The
stalks and skins OF the grapes
form n thick crust on the top Of
the must, which is then drawn off
into large tonels holding from ten to
thirty pipes each; the superintendent
mass Of stalks and skins is heaped up in
the center OF the lagare, and the juice re-
manning in them is squeezed out by the
of hage beam Of wood, usually
the trunk OF u tree weighted with large
stone. The wine thus obtained is sepa-
rately casked and kept by itself, as its
quality is not up to the average mark.
Until the end of December the wine re-
mains undisturbed By that time it has
cleared and has deep purple tint. 1t is
then drawn off its lees into other tonels,
when some pure grape brandy is added to
it. Empty pipes are sent up from Oporto
in the ensuing spring to the quintas,
where the wine is duly racked under the
eyes OF the shippers agents. These pipes
are transported by bullock carts to the
Douro, where fat bottomed crafts carry
them down the stream, which Is swift
and difficult Of navigation, and rendered
still more dangerous by numerous rapids.
Their destination is the wine shippers