The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1888-10-17
FINGER RINGS.
HOW THEY ARE FASHIONED
FROM PRECIOUS METALS.
Shaping, Stamping and Setting
With Costly Stones-Ingeni-
Gus Mechanical Applian-
ces Used bY Jewellers.

Sometimes I think, says jeweler to
a reporter for the Pittsburg Dispatch.
that the adage, 'all is not gold that gilt
ters," needs to be reconstructed by
people IN our line of business, and made
to read, "all gold does not GLITTER" In
proof of this assertion he exhibited sew
eral pieces of gold as nearly pure as it
can be, and still be worked to good ad-
vantage. The material looked very much
like old brass, and was so dingy and
lusterless that none but an expert would
have pronounced it gold. The piece
was designed to form the top of the
ring, in which the stone is set, and was
separate. It is shaped like tray, hav-
ing been given this form by a die or
stamp, by means of which it was cut
from piece OF rolled gold. The greater
part of these gems are cut and polished
abroad.
For weighing diamonds and other
precious stones a very delicate instru
ment, known as the diamond scales, is
used. 1t consists of balances and is 80
delicate that it will turn when weight
equal to one sixty y-fourth part of carat
is placed upon it. A carat is weight
of four grams; the scales, therefore, are
capable of determining the weight of
any part weighing one.two hundred and
ffty-sixth part of grain. The smaller
weights used on the scales are of alumni
mum, the lightest metal known, and a
piece one sixty-fourth of carat IN
weight is but small, flmly scale that
the breath would move.
The workshop is a curious place, full
of ingenious mechanical appliances.
Gold coin is put in small crucible, with
| hux, and. the crucible placed inside
covered pot, which is subjected to the
heart of a powerful fame of natural gas.
To increase the intensity of the heat
strong blast is produced by means of a
fan, making constant, even temper.
ature. Alongside the melting apparatus
is the annealing furnace.
The gold is rolled aud converted into
convenient shape for use precisely as
iron is worked in rolling mill. 1t is
passed through grooved rolls of various
sizes, one after another, until it Is
fashioned into narrow strips of the
desired width and thickness. There are
also other rolls for converting the ingots
into sheet gold. For stamping the
setting for rings screw press IS used,
dies Of various sizes being inserted as
required. A diamond ring is thick at
the centre, gradually tapering IN size
from the top downward. A piece of
gold, after Icing rolled and cut, is laid
upon a metal die and a heavy hammer,
working in frame and operated by
means Of rope and pulley. is made to
descend, thus giving with one blow the
desired shape to this part OF the ring.
Hundreds of different dies are necessary
for the various styles and sizes of rings.
After the drop hammer has stamped the
gold into shape it is placed in thin
metallic plate containing hole in which
it fits exactly, and driven through by
punch, worked by hand, thus cutting
away the gold adhering to the edges,
which is carefully saved.
All along the side of the room are
workmen seated at benches, some shap-
ing the pieces into rings and soldering
them together, other inserting and fas-
tening the stone Sc ,tings, and still Others
performing various sorts of equally diff
cult and delicate work, all necessary in
the making of ring. In another part
of the room is o curious bit of machinery,
which is called lapidary lathe and used
for shaping or cutting down stones
when necessary. A round piece of
metal, shaped like small grindstone, is
set in horizontal position and made to
revolve. To this emery is applied, and
the stone being held against it is soon
reduced to the proper dimensions. 1t is
then polished on It similar appliance of
wood coated with putty powder. An
other interesting object IS the enameling
furnace. The article to be ornamented,
having previously been engraved for the
reception of the enamel, is placed in
little oven coated with the enamel in
the shape of powder. 1t is then heated
until the enamel runs and is then re-
moved from the fire to be cooled and
finished.
A peculiar process is that of gliding,
or electro plating. The article to be
gilded is first thoroughly cleaned by a
fine brush of brass wires. A piece of
gold is attached to the positive pole of
an electric battery and the article to the
negative. Both are then placed in the
same solution and the electric current
does the work, transferring portion of
the gold to the object to be plated.
For polishing the various articles man
ufactured there are various ingenious
devices whereon the work is done by
fine revolving brushes, some made of
hristles and others of cotton. A machine
which has been in use for the last twenty
years. and which created revolution in
the business is the meal lap, consisting
OF two wheels charged with different
grades of emery, one for evening the
edges of rings and the other for polish.
ing.
Nreat care is taken to prevent any
waste OF the precious metal, but con.
siderable loss is inevitable. The dirt
which is swept from the floor is carefully
sifted and saved, and even the water in
which the workmen wash their hands is
too precious to be thrown away. 1t goes
from the sink into a barrel underneath,
a pipe carrying it to the bottom, and from
this barrel pipe takes it to second,
and so until it has passed through four or
five similarly arranged receptacIes.
Thence a p pc carries the overflow to the
basement, where the water undergoes q
like process of filtration. The amount
of gold saved, mainly from sweepings and
from the lavatory, amount to from $1,000
to $1,000 per year. And good deal is
lost beside, despite all precautions.