Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-12-30

bodice, framed in by bands of watered
silk or plush. and PLAN skirt-lace for a
fold laid underneath the edge, and folded
belt. If the belt is sewed III at the side
seams, the backs must be cut in one with
the basque.
The underskirt must have a certain
amount of expansion, and is usually two
and a half yards wide and finished with
one steel not tied tightly.
Notwithstanding the raid against pads
they are still worn. 1t Will take some
time to convince woman that she looks
well without a dress imprOver, and at
present the appearance of the few who
have discarded the appendage does not
impress one to the contrary.
New sleeves are made full in many diff
ferent ways, giving at last change from
the slim coat sleeves, for even the latter
are made wider than formerly and in
some cases they drop down from the top
in Il cross fold separate from the lining,
and are sewed very full in point in the
top of the armhOle. Even cloth sleeves
are full from the armhole to half way be-
low the elbow, where they are gathered
over an inner sleeve of cloth of contrast
ing color, which is made closer fitting
though not tight, as, when finished with
its turned back cuff, also of cloth, it is
large enough for the head to pass through.
Sometimes the cloth is shirred to Il point
Mt the armhole, and a band of galloon
forms the cap, or jockey, as French mo-
distes say, around the armhole, and a
similar band conceals the seam which
gives the full part to the deep cuff. Vel
vetpr plush sleeves are also full, with u
deep cuff covered with passementeTie.
In some coat sleeves fullness is added by
lengthening and widening the upper end
and folding 1t careTessly around the arm
hole in thick irregular folds. Some new
deep cuffs flare outward like gauntlets
and extend IN two or three points above
the end of the full sleeves. In empire
dresses the sleeves are i'll the present ac-
ceptation of the leg o. mutton shape, a
full coat sleeve pushed up at the top in
wrinkles around the armhOle.
IN COSTUMES OF THE HIGHER GRADE
the cOrselet commands much attention
and is frequently made of velvet and
plush, to be worn over gowns of soft silk,
gauze, or even light wooden fabrics. The
upper part of the bodice is made of the
dress material laid in fichu folds, which
cross upon the breast, the edges being
concealed beneath the corSelet. The lat
ter, in its handSomest form, is made of
cut out embroidery, or the very popular
chain braid passementerie which has the
CLINT and glimmer of metal beads. These
are shaped perfectly to the figure, and
are joined so cleverly as to fill one with
wonderment rs to the adjusting thereof
A number of simple gowns are being
made of cashmere for quiet tea parties at
home, or for day wear in the house.
These gowns are made with draped skirts
and simple bodices. A cashmere GOWN
of silver gray has panel Of ribbon
shaped faille in several shades of gray
introduced in the skirt. The bodice is
quite plain, but is finished with fanci-
full little vest of soft, rose
colored surah, extending the
length of the waist. a
dark green cashmere gown
is made with gracefully
draped, but plain underskirt, and
has little pointed vest of palest green
corded silk, brocaded in pattern of
tiny rosebuds. The bodice of this dress
is free from the shoulder on either side of
the vest, and the tiny cuffs of rosebud
brocade are shirred into three puffs,
caught down by the fine green silk cords,
which are knotted in loops on the outside
of the seam. Dressmakers are making
very many dresses for the hose of car
dinal and of darker ox-blood red cash