Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1888-01-17
CALICO PRINTING.
The Maeider style Of Applying the eoIors to
fn. T4cft.

the surface hairs OF minute threads
which communicate fibrous down or
nap TO the surface OF the cloth. and il
allowed TO remain, would interfere
with the uniform application OF the
colors. The surface down is got rid Of
by the process of smuggling. during
which the cloth is drawn over red
hot iron or copper bar. or plate, or
through series Of gas jets. When
well singcd the cloth undergoes the
process Of bleaching, and is thereafter
calendered. There are several modes
| Of applying the colors to cloth, only
one of which, termed the madden style,
we have space to describe.
The madden style is that in which q
certain fixing agent or mordant Is
| printed on the cloth, which is then in
troduced into the coloring matter, in
dye-vat, when the mordant, having
an attraction alike for the fiber of the
cloth and for the coloring matter, acts
the part OF glue or paste, and cements
the color to the cloth. Originally,
madden was the only coLoring substance
| employed in this style; but now-a-days
by far the greater number Of dye-stuffs,
vegetable and animal, including coch,-
neal, logwood. ETC., are attached to
cloth in this manner. The fixing agents
or mordants generally employed are
different strengths of red liquor (ace-
tats Of alumina), iron liquor (acetate
of irony, and mixtures Of these. These
are thickened with wheat-starch, po-
tato flour, roasted starch or dextrine,
and gum-arabic, SO that the mordant
| may not run when it is placed on the
cloth by the pattern-block or by the
printing machine. After the mordant
| has been imprinted on the cloth, the
latter is hung in warm. airy room.
! where it can easily dry. but where it is
at the same time surrounded by a
moist atmosphere The result is, that
the mordant is decomposed, the acetic
acid is evolved, and the alumina or
iron is left attached to the fiber of the
cloth in the state of an insoiuble sub
salt, which can not be dissolved by
water.
| As some of the mordant is still left
in its original soluble condition. it is
necessary to wash the cloth free from
this, else, during the dyeing operation,
the soluble part of the mordant would
run on to those parts of the cloth not
intended to be colored. and thus pro-
duce blotted appearance To obviate
this. the cloth, having undergone the
process of drying and ageing, is then
introduced into vat containing water,
through which is diffused some COW
dung, dung snbstitute-a preparation
of bone ash, sulphuric acid, carbonate
of soda and glue-or bran. The result
of this process of dunging is the re-
moval of the soluble part OF the mord-
ant, as also the starch or thickening
/ agent, leaving the decomposed or in
| soluble mordant adhering to the fiber.
The terms dung-fxing, substitute-ixing
and bran-tixing have reference to the
employment of one or other of these
agents at this stage of the operation.
When tie cloth has been well washed
from the dunging. it is introduced into
the vat or dy2-beck containing the
| coloring matter. The whole is heated
by steam pipes, and the cloth being
nIaced an snar,,ed reel ko,t in rotion
i ,ppaatadlv wonpd ont ~ tha rat I'D
retnrnad tbarato The rasul, i thai
wboraver tho p,ordart .dbarod - ~ =
clotb tba coloriror ma,,ar i s,t,chaJ
tbo,oto ord littIo or ~ +roo - 49,
adberos to tbe ,,n,,ord. ,tod na,.ts
Tho lost onar.+io,, l. tha .iea,;,, o-
| briobfeuiD1. durinp which the coIored
cloth i introduced into warm baths of
wafer containing soda mr. for the mora
delicate tints. bran. and is thereafter
acted on by weak acid solutions. The
object is to clear the colors. and at the
same time to confer upon them the
property of RESISTING the fadino action
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