The diamond drill. (Crystal Falls, Iron County, Mich.) 1887-1996, 1888-04-21
SPRING FASHIONS.
Latest Colors and Combinations in
Spring and Summer Wear New
Sleeves
Novelties I'm Hendgear -Natty Jackets
"A New Fabrlc-Fashion
Notes, etc.

All the new stuffs, designed for suit
ing are emphatically s.drapable," but
In an array of sixty pieces there Is no
material that gives such extraordinary
wear and drapes with more perfect
grace than priestly silk warp Henrietta
cloth. Some OF the finest and most
stylish of the seasons dresses have
been made OF this material, there being
more service in one OF these dresses
for hard wear and rough usage than in
almost any other fabric in the market.
Certainly no material with the same
style and elegance can approach II in
wearing qualities. Abbey cloths are
very beautiful m warp and luster, but
seem especially designed for demi-
dress, church, morning calls, and half
mourning.
The subject Of drapery is very prom
inent at present A number of models
have the entire drapery in one piece,
but more general Is the unhemmed
drapery. This was introduced last
season. but has begun only lately to
gain in popular favor. Pinked edged
is used on any material that does not
fray out at the edges.
Skirts are merely masses of artistic
drapery and folds. The lining or un-
derneath skirt Is used, and upon the
bottom Of this is set a band of the ma
terial varying In width according to
the arrangement of the drapery, which
may demand one-fourth of yard, or
almost the entire length of the skirt.
1t Is an open question In some cir
cles whether sleeves will be loose or
tight fitting. There are women to
whom the loose sleeve is becoming,
but the majority OF ladies find the
coat-sleeve quite to their liking, and
win not give 1t up.
The voluminous vest drapery about
which much has been said and written,
has in many cases got no further than
the fashion plates where 1t has APP
peared. 1t is suitable only for slender
ladies. and unless 1t is appropriately
worn is extremely unbecoming. The
plain, perfectly fitted waist is the
height of elegance, and drapery is toll
cradle only when the dress fits badly.
The popularity of yoke waists is
still manifest, and one Of the new pop
ular styles is closely fitted lining with
pointed yoke. 1t is called the "French
blouse" and will be used next season
for tennis, yachting, and for COM
Portable yet trim bodice for morning
wear, generally at summer resorts.
One pretty blouse is made of white
serge, with yoke, girdle, collar and
cuffs braided with gold. Another, in
terra Gotta cashmere, is embroidered
In black. A blouse of scarlet wool
crepe has finely tucked yoke and
cuffs, and another of Roman red crepe,
TO wear with black silk skirts. has a
pointed girdle, yoke, cuffs, and collar
of black velvet, brier stitched with red
silk.
The wide flouncing, deep enough
for skirt, hung straight, is now out
Of date, and can be obtained at
much lower prices than formerly.
The more recent designs In piece lace
and embroidery have no border, and
are used as parts of the costume; are
draped, used full upon the side and
drawn In with ribbons and laid sur
plice- fashion upon the bodice. Fig
ured lace Is better used In this way
than cotton embroidery, unless the
material is very thin and light in text
ure, and the figure small. Heavier
cotton embroideries are employed for
inserted pieces, put in plain; the full
ness is arranged in the plain mate
rial.
The "shot" or changeable silks are
finding place OF their own, as rich
Innings, facings, trimmings and mount
ings. There is great effort expended
upon them, however, to make them
acceptable for complete toilets. Among
the best effects Is one in red and
bronze, obtained by dipping the silk
in one color while 1t is still wet with
the other. Velvets are dyed to match
these rich silks In order that they may
be combined with them.
A new fabric is shown this spring
that Is charming. IL Is called benga-
line, and Is not unlike an Irish poplin.
1t comes in all the new shades of
grays, mushrooms, terra cottas, warm
browns, greens and olives, has beau
tiful shimmery luster on the surface,
and. best Of all, sells for only n cents
a yard. IL is narrow, and hence cos
tune may not be got out Of less than
eighteen or twenty yards. The fabric
is so pretty that even should its price
be a cause for large sale IL viii never
look common.
An entire change seems TO have
come over the ideas of women in re-
gard TO spring street costumes. silk is
now used quite as much as cloth. In fact,
innniru hna dnunlnnnd that mora anrnh