The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1888-07-28
A RIDE TN GUATEMALA.
ROUGH TRIP THROUGH THE COR.
DlLlERAS' SIDE SPURS.

Town At Full Gaiiop-A Tiresoine
Ascent-Down Grade.
lcf; ouezaltenango by stage for San Mar
COS recently. The road runs through the
side spurs Of the Cordilleras for th.rty-six
miles, and the up grades are SO heavy that to
make any time the animals are whipped
along on every level stretch and sent faster
down hill, the brake being applied only
when the wagon gains too much on the
horses. The team we had was made up Of
three miserable horses, not more than four
teen hands high, and one lazy mule oil about
the same size. The stages are canvas GOV
cred spring wagons, seating four people in
side and one with the driver, all seats on the
same level aud cushioned with leather stuffed
with straw, and as hard as the boards under
meath Most Of the drivers are Mexicans.
wearing sandals and such clothes as they may
be-. borrow. or steal The diligence com
many supplies a few extra pieces Of chain.
leather. an immense lash whip, and large
knife. with which the driver fashions the
leather TO renair the dozen or 50 breaks OF
the harness in the course Of the day.
The first town reached was san Maieo
about two leagues from Quezaltenango, ana
one league further on, as we ncarcd the 1901
If the mountains, we passed through san
Juan Ostuucalco pueblo OF 600 or 40
souls Ii was about O'Clock IN the morning
md the streets were filled with Indians
BRINGING i'm market produce, some carrying
the loads in baskets on their heads, but the
minority bad their cargOes on their backs ID
wb,f is called n "camas.a" This is wooden
framework Of shelves fastened into four up
RIGHT pieces Of wood and stiilcned with raw
hide thongs. those Of ordinary size being
shout four feet high. thirty inches wide ana
twenty inches deep. Cords around the bot
tom and middle are joined TO the leather
headpieco, or broad strap which passes
ocrcs, the mans forehead and serves TO hold
the contrivance in place The Indian, In
clinin, lis body slightly forward, travels for
DAYS thus laden with his Iacl: OF 100 pounds
so dclcatelv balanced and adjusted that he
feels no excess OF strain on any particular
point Many were driving goats and sheep
in front q them, and others dragging them
with ropes tied around their necks
The pretty. bright colored dresses Of the
Indians added much 10 this lively scene. Now
and then Won could see the entire family
bringing in the produce Of their farm, the
father himself carrying his load ana driving
the "burro, 50 heavily packed that nothing
but the tips Of his ears and his feet could be
seen. followed 10y the mother with basket
on her head and the youngest strapped to her
back. with his legs dangling ont Of the folds
of the shawl and his little black head peep
ing out of the top. Then come the two boys,
both carrying loads; the older ono tugging at
a rope tied 20 tho neck OF an obstinate,
squealing pig, who wishes 10 60 IN any dlrcc-
tion but the proper one, and VINO Is being
urged forward By the younger boy, who Is
laying his whip across its hind quarters at
every step. They seem to make but slow
progress, but they will reach the plaza and i'll
time for market hours.
Through the main street Of San Juan,
paved with cobblc stones and filled with such
a crowd, our driver forced his animals at q
gallop urging them on with his whip and O
shrill whistle, and being comparatively fresh
they responded quite willingly. The leaders,
with sleigh bells tied to their necks, warned
all in advance 70 get out Of the way. Away
we went, bounding over the uneven pave
ment with Il great racket, and IN ways 50
narrow that the crowd had TO hug the sides
of the houses TO escape our wheels. For blocks
in front YOU could see the Indians escaping
into the side streets when possible, and
though these people are subjected 10 the dan
ger of being run over every time q diligence
passes, they seem to bear no al viii 10 the
careless drivers. They have never seen any
other management of horses, and presume
they think that this is tho proper way to
drive And besides, they depend on the stage
Cow. Ia
they NAV have i'll the neighboring towns
Many times our driver stopped III the long
streets of San Juan, always welcome guest
dropping packages here, picking them up
there, and at every stop receiving his small
piece of silver and drink in payment. He
took so many drinks before coming TO the
hills that began to have some fears for our
safety on the steep and dangerous roads to
come
Three miles TO the north OF San Juan the
loug and tiresome ascent begins, and DO mar
row that horsemep only can pass the stage.
The road is cut into the mountain side,
many places i'll solid rock, In which, as you
go slowly ahead, can be seen many names
and prettily carved crosses; and on nearing
the summit you see many wooden crosses
planted ON the roadside, Inscribed with the
names Of the saints in whose honor they
wero erected Looking back, the entire val
lev Of Quezaltcnango is spread out before
aud about 1900 feet below you, and often
obscurcd by the clouds, for you are above
them and in them, and the blankets over
your knees and your heavy wraps do not
make you feel over warm. We were nearly
five hours making the ridge, distance Of
about seven miles. The mountain scenery
in this region is grand, but any views, no
matter how beautiful, would become monot
Onous when seen from an almost springiess
vehicle, dragged over a rain washed, rocky
road at gallop, accompanied by Mexican
drivers yells and whistles, and the incessant
swapping of his whip; so, at about O'Clock
when wo pulled up at the breakfast station
In lovely green mountain valley, it was not
the meal that pleased US, but the relief felt
in getting out OF that hard cushioned, wagon
and away from the drivers noise.
Tho stages meet at this stopping place, and
when tho drivers had finished their converse
ton without any consideration for the feel
ings Of the impatient passengers We were
again of, and soon on the down grade. II
was SO rocky that with my feet braced In
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