Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1888-08-17

square, of small logs, showing in its
shingled roof a slight mark of c%iviliza-
ton unfoored, without windows, unven-
tilated save through its cracks and per-
haps by an occasional daring breath of
wind down through the smoke-hole in
the roof. Put inside of this common
room a circle of humanity and dogs-a
dozen of the former and 20 of the latter
surrounding a smouldering fire built on
the ground. For furniture and decora-
ton, picture smoky r%afters, draped in
smoked salmon, smoked dog, drying skins
and old patches of clothes. On the
ground blankets spread here and there
indicate some Indians imaginary bed
rooms. Most of the women seemed to
have something to do. Many were making
baskets of grass or cedar bark. In work.
ing they sit in the Turkish position with
the omnipresent blanket thrown over
their shoulders. The young girls are full
of fun and giggle as often and as merrily
as their civilized sisters. The bucks were
persuaded to give an exhibition of their
dances. This most grotesque perform
ance was interesting. although robbed of
its proper effect by reason of the semi
civilized character of their garments.
White shirts were pulled out and allowed
to swing free; leather boots in some
cases instead of mocasins, yet with the
paint and feathers and fantastic blankets,
the savage, wild gesticulations and more
than wierd chants, the entertainment
was well worth the small contribution at
the end. The squaws and children seat
ed themselves in circles around the dan
GERS aud yelled their strange chants with
shrill enthusiasm.
Our next important stop was at Juneau.
This little town is situated in a little cup
of a valley at the base of towering
mountains. Its life is due to the mining
operations which are going on in the
neighborhood. The business portion is
well built and a few respectable houses
indicate the faith of some people that
they have found a home for a time at
least. Every one talks mining and al
most every Il sees a future far
ahead. One mine, unopened as yet.
passed into the hands of a Southern syn
dictate, the week W. were there, for 81
100000. The famous Treadwell mine.
which we visited in the afternoon, has
in sight ore to last 20 years, taking out
600 tons a day, yielding SO to SIS a ton,
with a cost of working of only Sl.50 a
ton. 1t is valued at S20.0 900. 900. and cost
$500. There are many other claims Of
great value. The country has been pros
pected only near the waters edge. Tn
told wealth lies under the moss of the
inland forests. We found many Indian
curios here and all hands came pack to
the ship loaded with baskets. bracelets,
etc. | have six bracelets. silver. ham
mered out of dollars and curiously en-
graved with the Indian characters.
From Juneau we Wen to Glacier Bay,
reaching there Thursday morning.
wish | could describe the scene which
greeted me as | stepped on deck after Il
short sleep. We were in a sea of float
ing ice. The green forests had given
place to desolate, sombre mountains ris-
ing treeless, barren and awful on every
side. The rising sun played On ice as
beautiful as emeralds, of every conceiva-
bic shape. Occasionally VT passed some
huge iceberg, hundreds of feet high,
which the retreating tide had left rock
ing on its uneasy bed and apparently
chatting to follow its beautiful neighbors
in their race to the warmer seas. Per
haps it would lose its balance and reel
over with a movement sc easy and grace
full, yet so majestic, that ones breath al
most stopped. OF to the north-mile-
away-we could see the two great ice
rivers to which we were making pro-
gress-Fairweather glacier and Muil
glacier-the former the larger, but mac,
cessible on of shOal water it.
moraines have made. At noon we slip.
ped anchor within a half mile of the
water front of the Muir glacier. III
figure this stand for a river of ice NOV.
ing 10 feet a day: $50 feet high at the
water (and 200 feet under water {: on
and a half miles wide and "a miles long
: Picture the sight as the sun lights VI
, this wonder, winding away over noun
tain after mountain until lost in the fal
l heights beyond. Mountain ranges wert
: but islands in its course; it split as d;
. river would and reunited below. Nor.
= gan and | climbed far into it and left al
the others stopped by its crevasses. Ey
cry few minutes thousands of tons o.
: this ice would loosen and fall into tn,
| sea with a report like thunder. Tn,
waves thus made billowed down tn,
| coast as a tidal wave might. How
r shall treasure the memory of this sight
This letter is written with no idei
Y of doing justice to the scenes passe,
e through. | hope to do better when | Sc
d you. | will take up the description her