New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-01-22
nnn MN SHOrLD DRESs.


HON. MEN SHOULD DRESS
The impression prevails, especially among
women that mans dress is simple aIia'r' ."o
fact being, on the contrary, that 1t Is soinc"n'O
complicated, and, TO the man who takes a serious
view Of the subject, presents many prooio"'
Whether he shall wear cutaway coat OF i'ico
Albert at day wedding what sort OF scari-pi'
IS appropriate at a funeral what latitude hc may
allow himself in the contrast between trouSei'
and coat in n business suit, whether he may
venture to wear Derby hat in driving doScarV
these arc questions the importance OF when snoui'
NOT be lightly underestimate, and any heip Ill
answering them should be gratefully receiver ny
men who have had no training in artistic dreSSihg'
or who have not the time to give whlch proper
treatment of the subject would require
Now it is precisely to meet such demands d.
this we presume, that a most useful ana lntcr-
esting little work called The Etiquette of Mems
Dross. has been issued by The Mems Outfitter
With this modest book the average man need
never 90 astray but may confront lie WIN All
ifs emergencies, serenely conscious that whatever
trials and Affections befall him, he Will meet
them in an appropriate and fashionable COSTUME
lie will find there wealth of directions 10 govern
his toilet whether he be walking, ridlhS urlNns'
sailing, travelling hunting. calling going ~ 'iio
tboatre getting married or crossing the ocean
and in reading he is soon impressed with inc
idea that he cannot afford to slight any OF the
details so lavishly provided, for, as the DOCK says
in speaking Of the danger IN dSregarulhS c'eh
the slight variations from year to year III gehuIc
mems evening dress, the soleclsm cohiniltVeu -
srre IN he noted by some careful observer For
this costume the textbook gives the most minute
directions. even as to where the handkerchief IS
lo,, loi1 =
dress sack or taicss dress coat, is OF spccial
interest From this it would appear that wheh
so-caed king of the dudes attempted to force MS
wav into a Saratoga ballroom clad in one Of
these Garments he committed q soleclsm when
WAS sufficient of itself to stamp him as pretender
The talless dress coat, we are informed, Is not q
novelty after all 1t is the East India tea coat
that has been worn in Calcutta and all the capitalS
of the East for probably quarter OF century
1t was desig ned a comfortable and easy garment
for occasions less formal than those where fuh
evening dress is Indispensable. and is becoming
regular fashion for home wear in the evening"
card parties etc. But it is never to DC Worn
upon formal occasions
The subject of weddings is one of great import
ance from any point Of view. Every man expects 10
ofliciate at one or more weddings In the COURSE
of his life, either as bridegroom best man OF CUES"
and in any capacity it is necessary that, IL Ihe
wedding take place in the daytime, he shall know
how to be dressed. Upon this subject the hahd-
book gives most explicit directions. 1t is inter
estino to know that a small scarfpn is per-
missible this season." which pierces the scarf
Mt the ton of the knot well to the side, or IN
tho centre below the knot" Also that at some
OF the most notable recent weddings an attempt
has been made to furnish contrast and dlstlh-
guish the men of the bridal party from the guests
by the bridegroom and best man appearing
in Prince Alberts, while the uShers
wore getaways, or again where there was
n contrast in the trousers only, between checks
and strpes respectively. This effect, we feel,
must have been significant. sincere and gently
beautiful
Nothing is more Indicative Of the man whose cos
Tune is governed by the strictest rules Of the art
than the costume in which he appears IN the street
Here he is subject to the severeSt criticism, anu
IL single detail be deficient, he is mlseraDly con-
scous that he is passing in continual review before
many sharp eyes that will surely find him OUT
Now he need never go astray, for the DOCK tels
him everything. even how he may emulate the
Apparently hardy youths who swing along the
avenue without overcoats in the coolest weather,
with their noses perhaps tri1e blue, but still
with very successful stimulation of enjoyment
This is made possible by wearing heavy under
vest of flannel or chamois-slxin. No one need be
in ignorance even how to carry his cane, Tor, as
the hook saws the swing of walldng-stck
| should keep time with the rhythm of the STEP
| The proper costume to be worn at funeral
| is delicate subject. Even the umbrella becomes
detail in the general effect The problem where the
funeral is that Of friend, and not Of near
relative, is how to embody in the dress that
decorous shade of regret which stops short oil
personal grief. black coat is, of course. indls-
| pensable on such OCCASIONS and the question oil
deepest interest is as to the trousers, which, THIS
authority says should be black diagonal or cork
screw. or Of "a shade bordering on black in tone
The best nec1wear is plain black grosgrain
fourth hand tie. If any jewelry is worn, very
small pearl scarf-pin is correct. gentleman IN
mourning for one of his family should at all times
wear black neckwaro in some shape, either
fourth hand, "A bow-tie, or a fiat scarf; and nc
gold iewelry whatever lie may wear jet STUDS
or white porcelain bordercd with black Hand
kerchiefs, black bordered, are no longer de-
sirable for gentlemen in mourning"
1t is apparent that every emergency Is provided
for In fact the only criticism we should make
is that the man who is anxious to be well dressed
at all times and under all circumstances Is not
told what to die in. But doubt the cxpecta
tion is that if his life follows the precepts laic
down in this little book, Death can never come
upon him at a moment when he Will not be prop
| erv dressed to receive visitors.
|
Tn his last message Mayor Hewitt says som
horn things about the failure Of the Board 0