Morning journal and courier., 1888-11-10

cover most or the dattened esoarpements o1 i the once mighty walls. To the east, the south and southwest, save where the misty l coast line of Sligo here and there pushes 1 through the distance, naught can be seen but wild sweeps or upland moor, white sand reaches and ghostly dunes, or vast and drea- ry stretches of wind swept, shuddering heather. To the north across Donegal Bay the great headlands loom hard and savagely, as if some mighty impulse of nature were about to topple them into the waves. While to the west, where the sun is ever set- ting in the eeaseless turbulence of the sea, but rising upon happier lands beyond, there are just the meanings and thunderings of the mighty ocean. But down the coast, behind the sand hills, is rare old BallYshannon upon the stately Erne, where, as it's waters leap with roar into the bay, was once one of the most splendid salmon fisheries in Ireland. Three miles above, where the waters of the noble lakes of Erne, after lettering in the sandy valley, make mad rush as if to en- gulf Ballyshannon, forming the beautiful Falls of BeIleek. On beyond the old town along the circling bay is Bundoran, where families of the Irish gentry from the middle counties and the west come in summer to the glorious Bundoran donkeys and the sea- While back along the beach from Ballyshan- non, down behind the old Kilbarron ruins is the tiny hamlet of Wardtown, the old seat of the Ffolliott family, where the incidents of that tenderest and most pathetic of Irish love dramas, "ColIeen Bawn," had their mournful origin. Here once really lived Squire Ffolliott, whose daughter Helen, @ lass of radiant beauty, was enamored of 8 bright Iriah lad servant, Willy Reilly. In vain the stern old squire sought to stem the torrent of their love. Finally the couple stole away together, the girl taking with her her jewels. They were pursued and over taken. The jewels being found on the lad, he was prosecuted for felony and sentenced to transportation for seven years; but from the moment poor Reilly's sentence was known Helen, the colleen bawn, the lovely maiden, the pride of Donegal, became a ra- wing maniac. For seven long years Reilly suffered the bangs and degradation of penal servitude; for seven long years Squire Ffol- liott's daughter called madly for her lost love. Nothing like the excitement occa- stoned by the woe of these two lovers was ever know in this blessed land of marvels. And what meeting was there when the lov- CT true returned and claimed his poor mad bride; and kind heaven that instant gave her back her reasonl Why, the story threads and thrills through Irish heads and hearts to-day with the same magical power as when it was new; and until Love is dead the eyes will gliaten, the bosom heave and the tender hearts, blood leap into the glowing face of every fair daughter of Ireland at recital of this true and pathetic love tragedy, wrought in the old days down here among the sand hills, near Ballyshannon by the sea. A gou- ty old doctor is now living in the Ffolliott home. Become a sentimental tramp; knock at his vine covered door; and mention "Col- leen Bawn" to him with 8 sort of longing look in your eyes, as though you yearned to be shown about the place. While the doctor goes into convulsions bis faithful hirelings will set the dogs at you. Gentle memories of Helen and Willy do not brood over the interesting spot; not at present.
 do at ahorT aircr to possess the people of Donegal town and the peasantry of the Donegal Highlands. This goes on too from character to physique. However humble and poverty cursed men and women may be, they stand straight and tall both in tkeir own individuality and upon their strong, long legs. Indeed this often reaches grotesqueness in both respects. While the Irish peasantry, particularly of the south, are frequently diminutive in form and sometimes ferrety in character, these folk seem to possess an inner consciousness of self importance cut in glorious patterns and l large lines; while in no few instances they are so straight that fine Hogarth1an arcs sweep from their heels to the backs of their necks, often giving them the appearance oi carrying, and with some disdain, invisible 1 but mighty commissions on the tops of theil 1 heads. They have also an equally charming l frankness. They would all make good law l yers at cross questioning. In 8 week. 1 tramping over these mighty mountain road of Donegal, some of which would put you l famed old Roman ways to shame, 1 have haG l odd experiences in the witness box. WheI 1 pausing at some grand curved esplanade te 1 contemplate shadowy glen, roaring cataract l gloomy tarn or ledge of lofty mountain, l Donegal high lander, overtakipg me or ap' l preaching from the opposite direction, would 1 halt, instantly open court and begin th' blandest of interrogations. Pacing the ring ! ing road with exultant stride, would no. tice, away beyond some bellying bog agains l the edge of an oyerhanging rocky wall, thu 1 entire occupants of some little cabin issuing | from the doorway like a swarm Of bees | Wildly donning his picturesque clothing, thu | head of the house would start off around tho | oircling bog on mad gallop, like a dread | courier of alarm to suddenly confront me l in dignifed surprise, miles ahead upon ths
 winding road. Again, from where white | hut gleamed like the wing of bird upor headed by hugher father, would descend | with rush, as if to repel invasion, and ar | rest my way, sagely questioning my mission l Old women with parcels of yarn from tht | Glenttes; young women coming from or go ! ing out to service in their bare feet, theil | huge shoes slung over their round shoulders I for the saving; carmen loaded with poteer | and passengers, or empty; and all manner Of l Highlanders in their interminable goings tt 1 Somewhere for nothing, and comings from | Nowhere with imaginary somewhats; eacE | with their freshly cut, willowy sycamore | withe or more suggestive black thorn stick ! would, with sort of sidewise, enhlade 1 "stand right there me boyi" movement | bring me to halt, when the severe, smile
 less, oratoric and ever digni6ed proceeding | would begin:
 "Fine day!" And it is always "Fine day
 if the leaden mists are Tapping and skipping
 the earth like ships unstayed sails pound l ing the decks in storm.
 l "Fine day." would reply assuringly.
 "H'm-an' phare air ye goin'a"
 "Oh, up the road @ bit"
 l "Aha, but that's down the road!" The,
 had me there.
 ssAir ye goin' farf"
 "May be. I'll see how like it.''
 "Well, railly, now! An phare air v from9'
 "Americs."
 "Well-now-raillyl Wor ye long outa
 "A couple of months"
 "An' does ye be long stayin'f'
 "Six months or so.n
 "Well, rally, now; ye'r'e tsllin' mel H'm for bye yer cars handys"
 'sI have no car Haunting car); walk" "Faith, now raillyI Arrah, but yer no grudgin' the poor carman the feeF's
 "Ob, no, my friend; but prefer walk
 ing.n fore'ud!"
 "That's why like it."
 ''It's rubbin' grase to a fat pig to say il
 but it's as strong legs as sorrow ye have!"
 All this in large, judicial air; but with
 final cheery, "Grah Quck, goed wilD go vii
 yel" to which would send back, s'The sam
 to you, seven time overi"-my mountain
 barristers, if there was party of them
 whispering among themselves, "How does h
 know phat he'll des Sure he's born, nc
 bu1iedi'' or "Faith, there's a thatch off hi
 roof, poor creatur'i" went on their wonder
 ing way.
 And whenever these little incidents of tn
 road occur, and they happen scores of time
 each day as go forward at quickened pae to make up what has not been altogether los 1 xuiAE halE khaaA