Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-01-29
LADIES' COLUMN.
4 Well Furnished Brain Necessary
Adjunct to Trained Fingers in a
Woman's Workshop.
Suggestions as TO Skiris, Sleeves and
Cors:ea far the Amateur-styies
from Far Countries.
Boru, MOI th- Risoe where Ignorance IL
tftI.s-stlsr EKperferce Sad
L&sson-Eotes.

uigen their time and talents to dressmak-
iEg and are OF their intelligent methods
creating revolution In this important
department OF work. That his brave
words are spoken 70 8 woman who claims
that other avenues are open for the eou-
Gated and that this work should be lett 10
those who have more limited spheres OF
Industry is not matter of surprise, ort
thoughifu! Women should be grateful 10
him OF the lily and the sunfower, that ne
so well advocates the bringing OF Skill
and culture into The workshop Oh women.
Those who remember the ungsinly figures
OF fttT years ago, when stiff stays ana m
yielding bodices rendered grace OF action
an imp possibility, will see in the ease and
perfectly adjusted seams OF the modern
dress se8cient reason to insist that dress
making Is fne art and that modiste
should be accorded place among artists.
A we'll planned costume requires not
only pAiate1's eye for color and
edaptabiIity, but also sculptor's
knowledge of curve line and Just proper
ton. NOT does the requirement stop st
this; there must be sucn relation main
tanned between the laws OF beautT and
tsese OF health that science as well as art
shall irdorse the perfect fitness Of its en-
tlrety. Thsn is it vain TO say that the
designers of what women SHALL wear
should be educated, cultured persons,
whose skill and talent will supply work
70 the mere manual worker. Women owe
Mrs. L1ngtry debt OF gratitude for nav
ing introduced the jersey, showing by Its
easy adjustment the possibility of per
feet f. with comfort, VIII ch Ia In fact the
art OF dressnaking. This ART Hes In
system Of cutting By which certainty Of
correct measurement Is assured, snd then
by careful b&sting so that the various
parts are not stretched bat are accurately
adjusted and fitted to each otner. The
ta;Ior-made gown is In no sense piece
Of guesswork, bat is as mnch the result
OF mathematical calculation as any struct-
ure where parts make the whole.
& growing preference has been mani
tested by many women for men dress
makers, and the tailor-made gown in its
precision is the result Of the choice,
stiff, mannish costume, curveless and des-
ttute of grace that has for time dis.
placed 8 more feminine conception. a
revolution Is slowly taking place N
gradual return to tue modiste who Will
10 FOR the female form that for which the
Whatever the form mSY be he its it per
fectIy, but woe TO the fiat-bressted or mar
roW-hipped, he sees no way OF improve
ment. II one wants a coat he can make 1t,
but gown had better be left In the hands
OF G woman who can feel another Womar's
wants, building ND lacking fullness OF
bust, drawing soft folds across ths hips,
ard thus by hiding defects or bringing
into notice f1ne points, satisfying that
universal longing in the Eesrt OF al
women to look well.
In the matter Of skirts, fashion can
never insist upon set styles. The skill OF
the costumer is In the art OF drspiDg and
the method can never be stereotyped. She
knows slender woman can wear tullness
or the nip while stout women can only
have few folds Across the front, and
thst for both there must be Csrefui
avoidance OF drawing the skirt TOO tightly
ACROSS the knee.
Plain round skirts are much liked; they
are now worn little longer than formerly
being lust short enough to escape the
ground. Narrow plat ings around the skirt
are no Longer fashionable, but for eco
nomic reIsops are worn, only the tiniese
bit is allowed to show below the drspery
To making foundation skirts two inches
OF extra length should be allowed IN the
oack for tho hustle snd two TO- each
steel. III panels are worn they must be
mounted on this skirt before the skirt is
.draped.
Dsmi-trsined skirts are in great favor
this winter for afternoon reception
dresses ssd dinner gowns. The fronts
are made in the Directoire style, is
from belt TO foot, without hip drapeTy
and are laid In irregular plests, that iE
the middle being broader than ali tht
others. a broad trimming crosses the
foot, and may consist OF q ruche or pinkec
tiaunces, but is more often brocsdec
border woven In the three breedths o.
tha front and sides, or else il is OF very
rich lace or psssementerIe plsoed hs.
with its scHlloped or pointed edge turneC
upward. -,
Short basques are now popular, al
though polonsises are by no means In
FREQUENTLY worn. These sre sometime!
maze with pointed yskes Of velvet with
deep pointed eirdle et the waist, and sfi
cutie pretty for slender Agures. RounS
waisted bodies are arranged with scar
achu on one side Il the front, and loops
of ribbon taper!ug 70 point On the other
Shoulder braces are now worn on plan
bodies. These are cut bias, passing owe
tha shoulders, the ends sloplpg to
no,ut front and back and fastened beneath
= beaded sirdle. They also form oretelle
ysithout q girCie. These are bat cepie
of Swiss, Italian and Norwegian styles q
thew are seen ia pictures OF pesssn
wonen. Thus IL is, that from aH source
IDEAS sre sought 10 crafty the cspFce o
she hour and 70 render dress ettraetfV
and becoming.
MOTIFS.
Movable waisteoa are useful fesnlo
- well followed. :,
PolonsIses grow more snd mere y
favor. AID ere preferably OF WOO. Owe
silk or velvet skiEta.
Long, soft vests OF silk gauae hsVe
friI of lsce CT the left side, and man.
Grooming bows of breoaaed ribbon.
Tne thester bonnet fsost approved
male tinted. compact, k;gh trimmed /
front. and striugless is most cases.
Fire bresceloths and lSdies' cloths ST
sssd to he used in Paris sor bridesmaids
dresses Sn6 sometimes even for oflds
dresses.
VERY Young women wear IS finish .
higher c,,fseges wide, high collars OF sil
mnsljp. or narrow puts OF crepe llss
ending b bow behind.
fold of ,Isse on white MORE ripoon
Or the new sraetsl- edged RIBBON alone
IS chosea for the neck and wrists, upo
occasions that approach full dress.
Waite riouor, folded, or barely snow
fne tie edge and ending In tiny oot
:z.<;1I tha "a hi0u for the nee