The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1888-04-06
TIE WHITE CARS LAND.
AN AMERICAN TRAVELLERS IMPRESS
SIONS OF RUSSIA.

determined to visit Russia, and GALLEY
upon some acquaintance for information
on the subject 1 was to investigate, / was
told that my trip would certainly be one
of great pleasure and supreme delight;
that the stories concerning the despotism
in Russia were false; that / need have no
fear of dungeon horrors and Siberia, and
that should proceed with the same de-
liberation and uninterruption / would
traverse any other portion of the con-
tinent. At London my English friends
looked aghast, and declared that I took
my life in my hands when l entered
Russia, and demonstrated against it.
The English know more of the country,
the customs and the alleged laws, find,
than the Americans; but being more ex-
Citable and prejuCliced, they are less likely
to do justice to the subject. The English
have said and done so much against
Russia that, as a general rule, they do
not receive the few civilites and privi-
1eges granted strangers.
1 thought it quite exacting to have my
passport vised by the Russian minister at
Washington, or the consul at the point
where l entered the country, before
could see Russian soil, when a passport,
plain and simple, is required in no other
country a man visits in all Europe; but
when l learned that even the natives of
Russia must take out q passport every
year and have it regularly ViSed by the
local officer before they are exempt from
contempt of the emperor, ] concluded that
strangers were quite as well favored as
the cars own subjects. The object in
requiring natives to have passports is rev.
enue, while aliens are put to this trouble
and expense for the purpose of inducing
them to stay out of Russia. All Russians
must be naturalized if they remain in the
country, and their passports, which cost
them ten rOubles year about 81. so, is
evidence of their naturalization.
At the frontier the stranger encounters
little in the forms different from other
countries. The modes of inspecting bag
gage and withstanding personal scrutiny
do not vary greatly from the usual. But
as everything in Russia is distinctly Rus
sian, and therefore exceedingly strange,
the most experienced traveller is possessed
of u sense of concern, if not fear. The
through trains from Vienna, Berlin and
other popular points of departure for Rus
STA land one on the frontier at night. The
place is small, and the station swarms
with Russian officers, big, burly fellows,
with swarthy, unintelligent faces covered
with long, flowing Boards and all dressed
in the most elaborate uniforms. There is
q clunking Of swords, rattle of spurs a
din of voices and a rushing hither and
thither that is appalling. Timid women
travelling alone have been overcome with
fear or lost their heads in this hustle
The gendarme in charge is the first
officer who approaches the incomer. This
is the highest ranking military official,
and he takes up the passports. He is ar
rayed like NapOleOn-a broad topped cap
of red, white and black; dark green frOck
coat, trimmed with white and declzed
with brass epaulets weighing pounds;
huge belt and a sword, which is hung to
strike the ground at every step and rattle
ike musketry; pantaloc0s with a deep
white stripe and tucked SAknee top boots;
spurs of enormous proportions, and re-
VOlver of sufficient size to gun for buffalo.
The passports and gendarme disappear in
the direction of the office of the Russian
consul, where the documents are ex-
amined.
On the heels of this diplomatic officer
come the customs lackeys, who, without
ceremony or invitation, pick up the
sachels, bags and bundles, exclaim in
Russian, Custom house!' and put out.
The traveller follows. He finds his trunks
already on the counters inside the station
and if they are unlocked they are open
and the contents are being dumped on the
floor. The terror to the Russian govern
ment is printed matter. Every newspaper,
circular or book found is taken out and
sent to the gendarme and the consul. If
anything about free government, free
schools, or other free institutions, criticism
of Russia or her form of government is
found it is retained; and should it appear
among the possibilities that the bearer
has any design upon the Russian way of
doing things he or she is detained for ex-
animation. It does not appear in history
or tradition that persons detained" have
ever proven their missions clear. They
simply have been heard of no more.
Trains entering or emerging from Rus
STA do not pretend to respect their time
card, for the reason that they are often
detained on the frontier. Two hours are
always taken, however, being the time re-
quired for examining baggage and pass
ports, long or short. On this occasion the
train was light and the baggage was soon
inspected But the passengers were not
permitted to resume their place in the
train. AS soon as they escaped the Gus
toms officers they were led into the adioin-
ing restaurant, men, women and children,
where were all classes of people in every
condition. All outer doors were locked,
and were guarded by officers. Timid
delicate women lowered in the corners
and waited for the end of the two hours,
while half intoxicated Russians crowded
about, smoking nasty cigars or drinking
steaming tea at the tables. In all the
multitude or Greeks, Slavs, Persians,
Swedes Russians, Germans, not an Eng
lish voice was heard; and seldom did one
see man who could interpret even a sign
The women were more ready and bright
and OWNED the wishes of travellers more |
readily.
Finally Russian rushed like mad from |
the station and began ringing q bell. |
There was commotiOn inside. The bell |
ringer moved up and down the long plat
form and made much unnecessary noise.
The doors were unlocked and the pas
sengers passed out, an officer being ready
to see that each parcel bore the stamp of
the custom house. An hour and q half
of unnecessary, disagreeable waiting made
one appreciate the atmosphere, chilly |
even in August. Just before the train !
started q Jingle of spurs and sahers was