The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1888-08-24

ETC.
The first importations of autumn
woollens promise season of plain
goods in new shades and new weav-
ng. Solid colors largely prcdomi-
mate, and are given novel effects by
being woven in stripes in most var
led ways, as, for instance, there are
repped stripes alternating with dag
onal stripes, corded stripes with sat.
unfinished stripes, zigzag chuddah
stripes with cashmere.twilled stripes,
or armure and bird's-eye woven
stripes with those OF lengthwise reps
or cords; and these stripes are further
varied in widths, ranging from hair
lines and half.inch modest stripes to
those more bold and effective, from
one to three inches wide, while clus-
tiers of one kind of stripe are massed
to form wide stripes that alternate
with sold stripes of a third kind of
weaving. Many high finished goods
are shown in plain fabrics with the
silken glossy surfaces produced by
closely woven twills these will be
found becoming to women of dark
complexion, who delight in lusture,
and have given up dull rough stuffs,
even though of the finest qualities.
Cashmeres are given silken finish
like that of Henrietta cloths, yet
have no silk in them, and they are
also woven in stripes, and are ssrewn
with large dots that are made to look
even more silky than the ground
work, Plain Henrietta cloths are
imported entirely Of wool, and are
also mixed with silk in such large
proportion that the dealers call them
satteen Henriettas. 1t is the exper
fence of dressmakers that these mixed
Henrietta cloths, even of the finest
wool and silk, will slip add fray in
the seams, and do not wear nearly as
we'll as the pure wool cashmeres,
which now also rival them in lustre.
Among diagonal stuffs drap d'Alma
is revived, with its widely woven
twill, aud there is great deal of
rough cameps-hair and of English
serge in plain grounds and in staipes.
The soft fine chuddah cloths for both
house and street dresses are made in
France, but closely initiate in weav-
ing the genuine India stuffs For
winter costumes ladies' cloth is again
imported in the light weights intro
duced last year, and in all the new
dull colors.
Bordered costumes are largely i'm.
ported for autumn and winter, both
ofplain and striped woollens. CASH
mere. figured borders are on the rich.
est goods, and are of great width, in
palm leaves and other India designs
in very gay colors, and also in the
gray and quiet shades familiar in the
borders of Paisley shawls. Many
stripped borders are also along one
selvage of plain woollens, and some
of these borders have silk woven in
the stripes. Other borders are
ombre or shaded, and still others are
entirely ofrepped silk. A wide sell
wage like thai of nuns yelling is the
simple border of many rough surfaced
wool goods, while a novelty is Dor
der of large plaids on plain solid-col-
cred materials. Hair striped fabrics
have very wide plain borders along
one selvage, and there are plain
cloths with striped borders in dull
cashmere colors. Tinsel borders of
gay metallic stripes are new on dull
colored woollens. Steel and silver
borders are especially handsome
Repped, twilled, armure, and strip
ed silks make up the bulk of autumn
lmportations for dress silks, and
there are novelties with woven bor-
der along one selvage, while very ex.
pensiye silks have border of very
fine silk embroidery. The newest
gros grains have medium sized reps,
and soft ottoman silks have smaller
reps than those Of last YER. Twilled
silks are liked for their lustre (Which
is, however, not like the shining gloss
of satin). and are repped on the
wrong side, therefore are not revers-
ible; they are especially satisfactory
for bodices, because they are elastic
and cling to the figure. Armures have
the very fine small diaper or birds
eye pattern which was formerly called
"a Il al l.