Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-06-02
Special CORRESPONDENCE Of TIE EVENING STAB:
r. 1881

Special Correspondence Of TEE EVENING srAE:
&c pyrighted lSSS1
VALE DEF. AGUAcaTE, CUBA, May % 1883.
Ny fascination for the charms OF Cuban deep
woods led my host, Don Manuel, TO arrange Tor a
few DAYS wandering among the almost trackless
forests which lie between the plantation districts
a1Jhe way from the central mountain range Of
the island 70 the southern shore along the Carrib-
bean sea and we forth In such yalorouS fashion
ana with such variety and profuslon OF antique
arms, that haI we fallen In with the guardla civil
surely no explanations or implOratiOn could have
prevented our finally landing In La Cabana, at
Moro castle, Havana, where Just now the tyrant,
Marin, is crOwting the dungeons with all manner
OF innocent people upon whom Spanish tyranny
has set the fateful seal OF hate.
s'NOt for protection" gravely remarked my host;
'but this is the od-time Cuban fashion OF country
folk, and. besides we may md some game worth
ball or machete-strOkc."
The prospect was an celebrating one, and repaid
for the grotesque way ourselves and ponies were
aOcoutered. A pack-mule hidden beneath serons,
Tush-woven panniers and huge head-gear, upon
which bounded and iOated big wooden tassels, was
laden with some grain for our beasts little char
coal urn for melting lead and cooking food. bullet
mods. leadoarS, cutlery. and any number OF grass
woven ropes fOr lettering ponies and tying our
leash OF dogs steels and fints and bunches OF dried
corn-tassels Tor striking fires, few such edibles
as might be carried and pieces OF old canvas for
protection from the dews at night, should we
happen 10 miss the cabins OF the peasantry. Don
Manuel, myself ana jose, the NdQQerO, VINO WsiS a
master of cuban wOodcraft, and who accompanied
Us "a a servant and guide were each provided
with savage machete, smaller on: none the
less ugly knife, a tremendous revolver, and rifle
whose weight, length and proportions were ap-
palling.
ANIMALS AND REPTILES
Notwithstanding the don's assuring remark, my
own trepidatiOn was discovered, as / could see
from the merry twinkle OF Jose's eyes And this
led, as we wendell our way for miles through the
little mountain valleys, 10 the revelation OF fact
which Is not generally known outside OF Cuba.
This Is that In the entire island there IS not an
insect or serpent whose sting or bite is fatally
which viii attack man. The general idea is quite
the reverse. Among the reptiles the most danger
Gus is the alligator, which will always run II It
has half a chance, or Will only devOur q human
being when PROSTATE and helpless: while among
the wild animals, only one Will hight saya-ely.
This Is the wild boar. and IL will never attack n
man first IL must be brought 10 bay by dogs
Inen as our little party experienced In good time:
II becomes a sort OF bowling. concrete whiriwind
Eued with fire and set with fangs.
CHARCOAL BURNERS.
During the first day OF our excursion our quest
was rewarded with nothing in the shape OF deep
wood sights or tenantry, though the very earth
seemed nlled with songs ana calls OF negritos,
mayitos, caorerOS zoraeS totiSes, cninching7IacoS
sOlylrOs. piOreraS. savaneros, cananes and mock
ing-birds, which frequent the more open districts
and p!antati|n-trees and hedges; but as we
neared the denser forests, along toward nigntfai.
we came upon little settlement OF people well
worth going long distance TO know. These were
all OF the cooking, aa1 much of the manufacturing
requiring heat, IN the cuban cities done with
Charcoal charcoal burning provides sort OF live
nnoOd Tor a small and picturesque Class, who
Tell timber and burn charcoal at will in
the countless island forests. These carboneros
comprise some queer people. Most OF them
are inOnensive and hOspitable; but many are refu-
gees from the late revolution, for the spanish sol
Clery deem II wise not 10 disturb anyb body In these
almost inaccessible nauntS 80. aside from insur-
gent refugees. in nearly every carbonero's camp
VIII also be found IL YOU happen 10 be In company
AIRS Wi prr2 I'm
nag which waved defiance TO the hated Spanish
red and gold over the blood-swept fields OF CANA
quay, here and there a noted bandit who could
never be taken from among his swarthy friends. /
found other than these OF interest. They were
gitanoS, or genuine spanish GypSies, who, forming
more than one half OF the grimy settlement lived
and la0Ored and loved In these matchless forests,
all unknown as Gypsies among their cuban breth-
rem
HEARTY RECEPTION.
our party was known, and We were received
with every manifestation Of delight The best
cabin was set aside Tor us; our horses were tet H.
cred and cared for; water was brought from a
cool repreSSa or spring. for washing in pOnderous
ewers; cheap wine, aguiardiente, and tobacco In
extraordinary quantities were provided; queer,
Dlg-eye ed and half-naked muchacos and nifias
gathered about us; looked. wondered and with
siyery bursts OF laughter fed their mothers or
.ne hOIests lor recovery supper OF such pro.
as never before greeted the eyes OF civilized man;
ana during the long evening these half-wild,
out OF odd corners of shadowy old cabins many q
bauble and bit OF iinery for the unusual occasion
danced for Us and with Us, upon the grimy smooth
worn ground such hilarious Zappafeos SUCH ont
landlsh Habaneras and such grotesque fandangoe
as no 1eryid pen can describe or even lax moralist
approve. III was Gypsy scene indeed, lacking
Only the hooded tents and the circling, huddled
wagons; Tor here and there the charcoal fires
nared as Gypsy camp-f1res do; n1yriads OF rre-
nies wOye warp and wool OF gold across the dark
outline OF the tungleS; half a hundred Swarthy
IVrins whlred IN the half-lights and shadows; and
the glowing stars, pulsing In their tropic fires,
shone through the weird, dark plumes OF tropic
Nerdure above.
AMONG Bayou
The next morning after coffee" at the car
boneros' camp we set out at a very early hour.
We had reached the SanJuan River, and follow
Ing Its course for rapid ride for a dozen or more
miles came 10 a series OF wide, low bayOus, or
lagOOnS, which set back from the river In some
places Tor miles. These were Iiiled with all man.
her Oh iuXuriant troplc vegetation and reeds sim
lar 10 those irOin which the Guines valley takes
Its name. interspersed at Intervals with stretches
OF Wild cane Here and there great drifts OF mos,
chung from limos OF gigantic trees 10 the very
suEIace OF The sttll lagOOns. The silence OF the
locality was something wonderful Strange birds
WITH long, gaunt bodies and trailing legs circled
dOOrOusly above. Not a nipple broke upon me
surface OF the shiny bayous. The reeds were
straight and still Inc gray moss was motiOnIess
10 me shadows The dogs kept close TO our
latter, crOuched close and silent beside them /
had noticed Jose ut work upon some Old pieces OF
Dl1ckehed canvas When We dlsmOunted he re-
moved his sOm0TerO. and put one OF these upon
ms head, placing others In the waist OF his loose
blouse.
come" said Don Manuel, 1--WE will show Won
now harmless alIigatOrs are when you know them
anu what simple thing IL Is for Cubans TO xiii
them!'
KILLING ALLIGAToHs.
Moving stealthily along the edge OF the lagoon.
we suddenly heard here, there, beyond and again
rs II all about Us, heavy splashes into the water.
and the quick parting and subsequent trembling
OF countless sWathS OF reeds showed where un.
W-eldy objects had made startled passages We
Were among school OF aIligators How many9
well. may be several thousand within square
nile! answered the don complacentiy Jose had
q tremendous guabrahaca dumped stick as large
almost as neaVy and quite as strong as a crow par
IL his hand AT word from Don NJ anuel he plided
forward and lung himself In a reclining posture ON
a nrm bit OF ground perhaps 80 feet from the
edge OF the lagoon, While the don and myseIf
hid In the edge OF the jungle. An almost uD-
enduraDle silence OF perhaps half an hour ensued
Ihen gentle splaShlngs among the reeds were
Aeard These were shortly followed by 10 any soft
half-w hlSted grultings Directly the heads OF two
Alllgators parted the reeds near where Jose Law
notl0neSs. For time these were also moIionless
as an oriental study In bronze. Then the bodies
followed, slowly and cautiously at first, but soon
with incredible rapldity they moved upon jose.
DeieNe was never 50 apprehensiye and excited In
my lie ''Sllence." Kissed Don Manual. Instantly
one nOpped about, seaLnpe:ed 70 the land-edge and
Nnl>ked himself into the bayou But the other
VIII swapping eyes and quiyering jaws was bent
On having
CUBAN MEAT FOR BREAKFAST.
In another instant he was at Joss,s side The
latter bounded into the air ike a rubber ball