The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1888-10-23
FASHION NOTES.
Fall and Winter coods-Lignt Fabrics
for Evening Wear.
IBoston TRANSCRIPT. /

lbOSton transcript
The latest importations exhibit full line
Of fine woolens in all the standard colors,
among which are perhaps more conspicuous
the mahogany, the gobelin blue blue, reseda
and dark green. A French serge is fine and
soft, and In many instances is shown with
broad striped serge, which is used for COM
bination with the plain, solid color. In no.
wise has the combination costume gone out
1t continues to illustrate the variety that
may be obtained from the combining of col
ors, and the manipulation of fabrics, of sew
eral tones of one color, or even several colors
in contras, and several fabrics, may be dis
covered in the construction Of ons costume.
In this period there are many special combi-
nations, those that are of exactly the same
texture, the portion designed for trimming
being woven in stripes, plaids or figures, all
the contrasted and harm0niZed color appear
ing in the trimming part. From the first
construction Of the combination costume I'M
til now there has been steady gain in an
artistic excellence, and at present there are
patterns that are beautiful in design and
construction, which display most creditably
the ingenious and artistic devices of the mo-
diste. Persian borders are seen on one sell
wage edge on many of the wooden serges.
These, are frequently in Persian colors, al
81.
as Clark blue and white, to combine with the
plain dark blue. Others may be in garnet
and blue, mahogany and buff, green and buff.
and blue and cardinal, brown and buff, and
many other groupings of color. There are
palm leaves in gold thread on a mahogany
French serge; there are very subdued striped
and plaided ladies' cloths, and the same fab
ric in checks, with black Persian figures in
terspersed oyer the checks, One may be
dark blue ground, plaided with narrow slate
lines and dark hrOwp PQrsiap
are ladies' cloths that are dark and plain,
which have broad, plain border on one
selvage in darker shade, or in mixed threads
which make very neat and stylish dresses.
Many woods show silk stripes, some of which
simulate ribbon, others galloons. Satin
stripes alternate with basket cloth stripes.
and plain basket cloth is shown in variety
Of weavings. Year after year the pattern
robes and packed carefully in large, SQUARES
fat boxes, come to the front among the wool
chs and with them appears the figure plate
showing how these robes, with Just so much
and no more. may be utilized to make an
effectivelcostume. Some are very beautiful
and yet, in the completed costume, wherever
seen, there are stereotyped points that al
ways Indicate the pattern robe" and the
majority OF women who are critical do not
give them preference. Yet they are wor-
thy Of consideration and inspection, and
oftentlmes exhibit wonderfully fine work in
the embroidery of the loom. In these robes
are seen some Of the finest wool textures in
Havana brown, with lighter brown silk
embroidery, garnet embroidered in black
silk, dark blue with light blue olive green in
Persian col0rs and other colors.
Cheviots appear in darker mixtures. less
OF white and more OF warm colors-many in
inch checks, and many others in stripes of
several colors woven in a subdued manner.
There is class of Scotch dress goods. cotton
and wool, forty-two inches wide. at twenty
i've cents yard, that may be had in mixed
threads and in some narrow stripes These
make useful house dresses or morning wrap
pers for many who cannot incur much ex
pense, for they will wear well and are pretty,
In the fine cashmeres are seen the best
shades of gray. That which is very new is
the Capuchin, in medium light but not too
cold for house wear. There are many other
darker grays in camePs hair and foule, and
in flannel suitings, and some gray f1annels
mottled in white on gray. The fine wooden
Henrietta cloth In c0lors is preferable to the
silk and wool. but in the silk and wool the
black Henrietta is usually preferred These
that account.
The heavy dress skirts. sometimes weigh
ing fifteen p0nnds-and this is no exagpera
tion-are among the condemned fashions
and now woman thinks twice before she
puts one on. There is a regeneration in the
moral courage of women as regards fashion.
The majority will not endure torture, which
is the certain result of unhealthful habili-
ments. The heavier the fabric the palmer
the construction, and this is as it should be-
A fabric that was once very popular is re-
vived, and that is alpaca. This is shown in
quality from thirty-seven cents to So a yard.
IL Is desirable, because it will shed water
like oiled silk and will not spot; it will not
crush and it will shed the dust; 1t has a
handsome sheen, which reminds one of the
Irish poplin in the silver grays. Outside
garments are made of the heaviest quality.
and make durable, stylish black garments.
Inc plain white and plain buff alpacas are
dressy, and are used for evening dresses.
In silk fabrics are seen many elegant de-
signs. In black the faille franchise is yery
generally used. This is alike ON both sides,
never trays nor wears shiny. 1t is again
stated that gros grain is being forced before
everything by the modistes, but this comes
from across the water and has not been ac-
cepted as de rigueur on this side. Peau de
sole is fashionable. Ii is not alike on both
sides, cannot be reversed but wears well
enough on its right side 10 make amends.
Armure is one of the finest and most desira-
BILE silk textures These different fabrics are
combined oftentimes in one warp-such as
peau de sole and armure, mascot and plain
satin, faille franchise br0caded in armure,
usually in stripes. There are gros grains
mat display MORE spots and irregular, crazy
IKE ngures. Among the most popular things
sne iallle franchise, passementerie-like or
.nnalentation in stripes This is used faster
silan IL can be imported, and Is very hand
ool9' watered and MORE silks are still
also used. s~
In evening fabrics there is a feast for the
eye. heavy white faille franchise interlined
IN gilt OF silver threads is regal. white ar
mure with threads of silver gives q frosted
erect; armure grounds, with peau de sole