Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-05-18

Va AM SKNSstdress, it's straight
H NNN&WsEYfz.nd severe simple
| Az $AMSlty are in sharp cen
q "sa. Ms&NS rast to boufsnt
- HNAAxtKA draperles and h e
1920 long wasted effect
that mas stimulated the skill Of mcdistes
during the past years. This oresa, that
| is mobilization Of the "Pfincees," is
extremely becoming to youthful and
slender figures, and these alone can wear
1t as the sash, q necessary accompSui-
ment, when tied loosely around the waist
makes even the slightest appear some
Whist large. The waist is round and not
sewed 10 the skirt, the latter being nut on
band That isstens ever lie waist, with O
cash Of vide ribbon crepe or sureh.
| In sharp Contrast to the straight lines
OF the former mode is the loose flo wing
drspery as seen in the illu. tration. The
soft falling drapery mingles and forms
part OF the Skin. ana is eminently adapted
to 1.-THE, willowY figure and intensifles
the grace Of every movement.
The g!rlish figure to the right shows how
pretty is the addition of the Swiss girdle
to dinuer costume; inside in dark velvet
and worn over any white material 1t is to
be admired The usual cut is as seen in the
cut, made OF black velvet, connected with
black braces and the pahs in the sleeves
separated by bsnds OF velvet.
| The last mentioned part of the dress,
that is the sleeves, brings our weekly dig
course TO this important subdivision.
| Cost sleeves are worn but cut to stand up
on the shoulder and fit the arm loosely.
Then there is revival OF the mutton leg,
that fits quite snugly from the elbow
| down, and this reversed Is termed the
bell shaped sleeve, the inner edge finish
ed with lace vielse, full sleeve OF soft
silk set into the mouth Of the bell, also 8
full sleeve sewed into the ermhole in
small plaits. These are stitched down
nearly to the elbow, then the fullness left
to form puff, which Is sgsin confined
by plsits that make cuff at the wrist. A
pretty style Is straight sleeve gathered
at the srms!ze, and again in q wristbaDd,
while the sleeve is tied at regular inter
vsls by ribbon, formio g putfs, but as this
requiTes the service OF q
maid or some obligirg friend,
| ard neither are always st
hand, the same effect is produced By
bands over which the ribbon may be per-
msnently tied. Tcuks, which are much
| used this season, appear in sleeves also,
being FRI quently made In the middle SO
as to form pun on The shoulder and ut
the hsnd.
A slight charge is observable in bodi-
! ces. These are no longer basques, but
are cut to have slight spring over the
hip, AID rounded or pointed in the back
IS best suits the form OF the wearer. The
skirt fullness and drspery are gathered
ON the edge OF the back, preserving the
outline. In front these bodices are pointed
| only an inch or two below the waist line
| aDd q sash or girdle drawn straight
across. Light material has tucks begin
ming at the shoulder, two rows Of seven
| or eight tucks on each shoulder, ard one
on each side of the throat; these tucks
form yoke shape, and the fullness is left
to be gathered in at the waist by the belt,
there being no darts taken up except 10
the lining. The skirt is aox-p;eited
without drspery, and the piaits are sewed
fat to the knee, there falling loose to
form o flounce. This design is excellent
for summer mourning dresses or young
girls white wool commence
ment dresses, and can be easily
made more elaborate by ribbon, on the
| use of which there is not the slightest
embargo.
< There is sn effort being made to do
E4Way with the high standing collar, but
sshexAR1H and the lsnk women whose
| throats begin to show the wrinkles OF
| time will not psrt readily with style so
convenient; still enc sees the necks OF
dresses finished with turned over knife
plating of silk or lace, or draped with 8
lace barb with fan.1ike bow back and
front
There can be no divided opinion that
this is an era wherein women Of sense
choose fashions for themselves, no
longer regarding themselves as bond
slaves to obey implicitly edicts from
Paris, hence long draperies will hold the
ascendxncy as SO many women incline to
stoutness rs age creeps on; lines should
be longitudinal and unbroken, her dresses
close fitting, but she should avoid tight
enipg her laces at the waist as any de-
crease in siza there has the effect OF un-
duly increasing the 8 zs CT hips and bust,
and my stout sisters have you ever
thought that for you, satin is under q
ban? You may wear velvets, woods or dull
silks, but shining suIfsces catch the
light, increase the size and attract atten-
| ton.
A new modification Of the polonaise ap-
pears In an extra fullness being given at
the waist taking the plsce Of darts, but
the rest Of the garment fits like glove.
This extra fullness Is held by clasp in
| Jet, silver or pearl as best suits the
Wearer; the drapery Is caught up high
on the hips, leaving two points in front,
while in the back It Is only slightly bout
FAINT, hanging etraight and cqcare nearly
to the bottom Of the skirt.