New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-07-15
THE COMING NEW-YORK FASHIONS.
WHAT WILL BE WORN IN AUTUMN AND
WINTER.

WHAT WILL BE WORN IN AUTUMN AND
WINTER.
The first woollens on ths street during tho
early fall will be ameshalrs sergcs and other twed
cloths and Henrietta cloths of various coIors. The
books OF importers show few fancy mixtures or
fancy figured goods. Tho majority OF wooens thus
far imported arc what termed by merchants plain
dyed cloths that ls cloths in surfaces which are I'M
broken by figure. or which figured or striped In
sefcoor. These woo.lcns will be made up into
stylish Gowns with smoothly fitting bodices. and long,
straight draperles and which in many instances will
be completed for street by short graceful nantes
OF the samc material.
A number of bordered woollens shown foe fall,
but these goods will be more popular ousde New
York than In tho city where they longer novel
ties Persian borders in new effects arc shown this
season; and camcs-halrs OF dark, soft hues I'm
ported with wide and narrow woven borders in sub
dued Oriental figures and mingled cOors like the pat
tern OF a camcrshalr shawl When these goods are
made Up the underskrt is edged with the wide half
yard Persian border but IS otherwise plain and straight
around and nearly concealed by the long drapcrles
which arc frequently trimmed with bands at the slde
extending the wals-a plan which Is resOrted to TO
give increased height 10 the figure, which the present
style OF dcss aims always TO do. Tho gradual re-
ducton OF the tournure which has been accomplished
durfng the summer, leaves the skirt quite straight al
the back so that but tho slightest possible hustle is
needed.
Cancels hairs in solid color, with bourete figures
stripes, are among the new cloths, and there COM
bnatons Of smooth and rough camcPs hair in stripes
and crossbars Of varied width Rough goods, twilis
and serges will all be popular for general scrviceable
These cloths tho natural mixtures used
extensively by English talors last season, but which
difficult to got the shop-counter Some Of the
old houses importing sllkwarped Henrietta cloths
In variety OF coor for fine wool costumes. Tho
cheaper Atwood Hcnr!etas Will DO little used as ex
periencc has demonstrated that they unscrvcoabe
Manufacturers believe that tho now coorcd Hen
riettas will wear as well black every has
been taken to secure dyes that Will act equally tho
silk and wool Fewer silk and wool popns or BEN
gallnes arc shown so far than last Satin
borber is an old-tmc wool fabric with satin lustre,
which is revived under the name Of satin-faced
Henrietta cloth. Drap d. alma, an exquisitey
soft wool goods. slightly heavier than cashmere, is
Imported In all colors. There arc many cords Hke
the pure wool Stephano cord, goods with reps the
size OF an Ottoman silk but which run lengthwise
and do rot catch the dust Ike a cord.
scbastopol cords and diagonal rcp show tho fancy
for rcpped and corded effects Cloths with fancy
selvcdgcs often banded with color in decided
contrast band Of fine lines Of silk giving the effect
Of threads OF gold, silver copper separating tho
two colors. Thus navy blue cloth is crossed by
three-nch band Of chocoate-color copperbrown,
separated by a group of hair-llne SILK stripes OF
bright copper color Dark green cloths banded
with steel gray, separated by silk lines Of silver hue.
The prevalence OF the Rrectolre fashions IS shown
in the plain armornting bodces whose outlines are I'm
broken even BY the wide Incroyabe rcvers, which
are turned back nearly to the armhOle, but reveal
the narrowest possible limo Of vest, and which in
some cases arc turned back and fastened close to-
ccther TO the throat. 4 few draped waists, similar
to those now seem the funcss beginning OF the shout
dcrs and drawn down TO a point In font, are shown
on French plates for fall. Tho draperes in all
fashion plates thus far imported are long, eccentric
quite different on the sides. and usually display
the front breadth OF the gown In some cases TO the
vast-line All effort at bouaant styles is done away
with by the new drapecs which. fitted quite plainly
at the back, leave the hips smooth and plain Plain
round skirts with Fat trimming skirts laid In large
plcats viii be the rule for street gowns High col
lars close-fting sleeves and high shouldorseams re-
main the features Of bodies. The chief change
this fall will be in the further reduction Of the ournure
and the close, long. clngng nature OF drapery ana
the adoption Of styles which VIII tend to meamor-
phose the panered polite typo of beauty of the Pom
padour epoch into the wlllowy slender, clasSically
draped figure Of Madame Recamiers day
There are only few patterns Of the new silks for
the coming In market Lyons manufacturers
have been exceedingly reticcnt about their new de-
signs II has been the custom Of certain manu-
factrers of cheap, snowy silks TO reproduce these
French patterns by machine as soon as they were
shown and this work done rapidly that In
many cases the American manufactures was able
10 put these copies on the market as soon as the
French goods arrived this side Of the ocean
Patterns have been guarded carefully this season
that even the workmen have been given their work
much later than usual TO prevent any danger arising
from their cossiping about the designs. 1t is
generally accepted that brocsdes in bold tapestry
designs will be the most elegant sllken goods for
evening wear and for all occasions demanding rich
toilets These goods arc being prepared In the con-
venonclzcd flower patterns OF French tapestries ana
will be made in satin and IN velvet on heavy back
grounds Of armure silk; and are moro correctly
called "brocatcllesT The severe classic fashions
which are offered for evening gowns require an OK
cepilonaIly rich material like these goods The
effort OF the French manufacturer has been to create
kcn fabrics Ike the old brccadcs seen In the pictures
of Paul Veroncsc and Titan which form perfect
harmony with the hanglngs and furniture Of the
rooms in which they arc pictured Thus the new
brocaded gowns afc designed to harmonic with tho
Gobeln tapestries and general hangngs Of the modern
parlor Rich tapestry cOl0rs are shown In these
silks. Greens promise to be very popular especially
in dark shades The brocatelles for gowns are
seldom produced in ono or two colors, but Jke the
tapestries from which they copied are reproduced
in that medley Of shade and hue known as ardinere
Copper SHADES wine colors and subdued Gobelln
bluc and green hues are generally used IN place oil
the more brilliant colors Of last season
Jackets in various lenghs and oqS wraps are RE
being preferred for i2!l ana WHllsr' luVI' WI "
an effort next season to Introduce the hree-quarter
length in Jackets Nantes ~ the material OF the
drpss viii lie extensively worn. Matclasse silks In
large tapestry patterns pushes and yelvets IN large
trocaded designs trimmed with turs are bcins
nrerared for winter. \ feature Of the new long
coaks for winter Is the Russian collar OF fur IN shaWl
shane lapped over irr"garly in front velour du
Nord sfken plush lighter than ordinary push ana
heavier than velvet, Is Of tho richest materials
shown for elegant vintcr wraps Inc mat s s.
goods with beaver back Is the material prepared FOR
less expensive wraps. o
& Co., and Arnold, Constable q Co.