The Anderson intelligencer. [volume] (Anderson Court House, S.C.) 1860-1914, 1888-02-02


not receive the few civilities and priyi-
leges granted strangers.
thought it quite exacting to have my
passport vised by the Russian minister at
Washington, or the consul at the point
where entered the country, before I
could see Russian soil, when passport,
plain and simple, is required in no other
country man visits in all Europe; but
when learned that even the natives of
Russia must take out a passport every
year and have it regularly vised by the
local officer before they are exempt from
contempt of the emperor, I concluded that
strangers were quite as well favored as
the czar's own subjects. The object in
requiring natives to have passports is rev.
enue, while aliens are put to this trouble
and expense for the purpose of inducing
them to stay out of Russia. All Russians
must be naturalized if they remain in the
country, and their passports, which cost
them ten roubles a year about $500, is
evidence of their naturalization.
At the frontier the stranger encounters
little in the forms different from other
countries. The modes Of inspecting bag
gage and withstanding personal scrutiny
do not vary greatly from the usual. But
as everything in Russia is distinctly Rus
sian, and therefore exceedingly strange,
the most experienced traveller is possessed
of sense of concern, if not fear. The
through trains from Vienna, Berlin and
other popular points of departure for Rus
sia land one on the frontier ut night. The
place Is small, and the station swarms
with Russian officers, big, burly fellows,
with swarthy, unintellgent faces covered
with long, f wing boards, and all dressed
in the most elaborate uniforms. There is
q clanking Of swords, n rattle of spurs, a
din of voices and rushing hither and
thither that is appalling. Timid women
travelling alone have been overcome with
fear or lost their heads in this hustle.
The gendarme in charge Is the first
officer who approaches the incomer. This
is the highest ranking military official,
and he takes up the passports. He is ar
rayed like q Napoleon-a broad topped cap
of red, white and black; dark green frock
coat, trimmed with white and decked
with brass epaulets weighing pounds; q
huge belt and sword, which is hung to
strike the ground at every step and rattle
like musketry; pantaloons with deep
white stripe and tucked in knee top boots;
spurs of enormous proportions, and re-
volver of sufficient size to gun for buffalo.
The passports and gendarme disappear In
the direction Of the Office Of the Russian
consul, where the documents are ex-
emined.
On the heels of this diplomatic officer
come the customs 1ackeys, who, without
ceremony or invitation, pick up the
sachels, bags and bundles, exclaim in
Russian, "Custom house' and put out.
The tre- -lnr follows. He finds his trunks
already he counters inside the station,
and if y are unlocked they are open
and the contents are being dumped on the
floor. The terror to the Russian govern
ment is printed matter. Every newspaper,
circular or book found is taken out and
sent to the gepdarme and the consul. If
anything about free government, free
schools, or other free institutions, criticism
Of Russia or her form Of government is
found it is retained; and should it appear
among the possibilities THAI the bearer
has any design upon the Russian way of
doing things he or she is detained for ex
animation. It does not appear in history
OF tradition that persons detained" have
ever proven their missions clear. They
simply have been heard of no more.
Trains entering or emerging from Rus
sia do not pretend to respect their time
card, for the reason that they are often
detained on the frontier. Two hours are
always taken, however, being the time re-
quired for examining baggage and pass
ports, long or short. On this occasion the
train was light and the baggage was soon
inspected But the passengers were not
permitted to resume their place in the
train. AS soon as they escaped the Gus
toms officers they were led into the adjoin-
ing restaurant, men, women and children,
where were all classes of people in every
condition. All outer doors were locked,
and were guarded by officers. Timid,
delicate women hovered in the corners
and waited for the end of the two hours,
while half intoxicated Russians crowded
about, smoking nasty cigars or drinking
steaming tea at the tables. In all the
multitude of Greeks, Slavs, Persians,
Swedes, Russians, Germans, not an Eng
lish voice was heard; and seldom did one
seea man who could interpret even sign.
The women were more ready and bright
and OWNED the wishes Of travellers more
readily.
Finally Russian rushed like mad from
the station and began ringing q bell.
There was commotion inside. The bell
ringer moved up and down the long plat
form and made much unnecessary noise.
The doors were unlocked and the pas
sengers passed out, an officer being ready
to see that each parcel bore the stamp Of
the custom house. An hour and half
Of unnecessary, disagrccable waiting made
one appreciate the atmosphere, chilly
even in August. just before the train
started Jingle Of spurs and sabers was
heard and two gendarmes appeared. They
entered the carriages and handed cut the
passengers. Each passport bore simple
and short signature Of the consul
or governor-and the seal Of tho officer.
Two or three passengers did not receive
their passports because the documents
were not vised and they were obliged to
remain and explain. AS the train rolled
on from the frontier toward Warsawa and
St. Petersburg the proyerb, ''Thc gates of
Russia are wide to those who enter, but
narrow to those who go out" fingered
in my mind.-St. Petersburg Cor. New
York Sun.