The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-02-04


front, draped with Grecian folds, and the
sleeves (of the gauze only come just below
the elbow and are caught up on the inner
side with bows of ribbon. There is edging
or finishing of lace, but only invisible little
plaltlngs of tulle which do not project beyond
the gauze.
Married women have largely adopted the
SILK or satin gown, opening or turned back
from the lace-covered front; the train and
bodice formed of rich brocade and usually
cut IN one and arranged with winged or
butterfly effects over a moderate tour
nure. A great many lowered and de-
tached figures or stripes are worn, but it is
because they are offered at comparatively
low prices. The finest brocades show
blended designs which cover the ground or
form part of the ground itself
The colors are very delicate or else very
high; as softest yellow and white, gray,
yellow and white, pale heliotrOpe, yellow
and white or an all white or all red, the
lights and shadows and different tints of
which are obtained by the raised or de-
pressed, the cut or uncut character of parts
of the designs. Lace and pearled embroi-
derry, particularly the transparent embroi-
derry, Which contains the colOrs or tints of
the brocade and gives glimpses of the ground
color beneath, furnish the fronts for these
stately dresses and their garniture. Ribbons
and feathers are out of place where much
embroidery or beading is used. Sleeves and
bodice are partly formed of the transparent
richly wrought stuff and jeweled stones
crescents or butterflies fastened here and
there, make spots of radiance upon the
richly cleaning surface.
Independent waists, coats and bodices are
more fashionable than ever. A beautiful
costume worn the other evening at a dinner
party given to a distinguished parsonage
consisted of a white satin skirt, completely
covered with black lace and small dress
coat of black velvet, with white satin and
lace vest and marquise tie of lace in front
of the open standing collar, lined with
white satin and edged with "back" pearls
Black silk or wool are always the resource
of the thrifty, but they are relieved from
dizziness and monotony by the introduction
OF steel into the trimming; not in masses,
but mixed with black silk or jets There
are many ways in which black costumes
can be made beautiful and attractive if
expense is not an object; but the ordinary
black which is resorted to on the score of
economy, is less easy to manage and the
result is too apt to be that of paid mute at
a funeral. Some new and pretty designs
in beaded trimmings have pendants made
of loops of small mixed beads to form tas
sells, and these look exceedingly well in the
also in a sort of India mixture of colors with
black and in this look less like mourning.
If beaded trimmings are inaccessible. a
very good effect may be produced by the
use of fine folds of rich silk upon wool, five
to seven forming band in alternate lines of
steel gray with black; or heliotrOpe or yell
low with black. A little pointed vest of
the color may also be inserted. This idea
may be carried out in gray wool and yellow
silk, and a very pretty gown obtained at
slight cost; or it may be produced in soft
silk of the two colors with fine pinked-out
ruchings instead of folds, these repeated at
the foot and full vest instead of small
pointed one. Cream and delicate shell pink
for the contrast forms a pretty evening
combination, with full, soft, sash Of the
pink
A great feature of the season is the hand
some long cloaks, which in some instances
serve for dresses and cloaks combined. The
newest fabric is frise velvet upon a ground
of satin of a contrasting color The velvet
designs cover the ground, which only shows
through in little CLEANS and touches, like
the color which is sometimes hidden behind
Chinese carvings. Brown upon yellow is a
good combination, or dark bronze green
upon ruby. The design gives redingote
effect, and when the full back of a short
yellow brocaded dress is seen at the back
outlined against rich fur, and a small dressy
branch of yellow with brown and yellow
aigrette and brown rings upon the yellow
crown, appears upon the summit, the COS
tune is considered complete.
A long high, white cloak of velvet or
brocade, lined with sllvery white plush and
bordered with white fur is now far more
indispensable to a bride than sealskin
coat or an India shawl, while for day wear
she must also have one of mahogany red
cloth, with wide black fur or feather trim
ming, and large black hat with straight,
snow-shovel, or, to be historic, old Italian
brim and group of at least five black
ostrich feathers.
The Empress Josephine style of dress,
though it has made a greet sensation in
Paris, as illustrated by the great artist
Sarah Bernhardt in La Tosea and
copied in this country by few aspirants to
social distinction, does not take" with any
number, nor is it likely TO do SO. The long,
lath-like proportions, the line of the waist
carried up under the arms, the fiat back
and the impossibility of combining a com
Portable degree of warmth with these out
lines render it impossible OF resuscitation
except as picture" or fancy dress.
Spring materials in new designs made
their appearance with the first OF the new
year They consisted of challies, foulards
and Scotch ginghams. The challies have
white grounds as last year, but much pref
tier patterns printed upon them. Instead of
figures detached and somewhat crude floral
designs, there are leaf and twig patterns,
long, slender stalky sprays in mixed brown
and bronze and green, with tiny berries or
fowerets.
The foulards are in small checks or stripes,
and also i'll small creScents, waved patterns
and interaced rings. The Scotch cambrics
show clustered stripes of white embroidery
or drawn work upon two shades of gray
blue or pink. The embroidery is often in
herring bone, feather stitch, or some equally
simple pattern, but clustered together with
lines OF drawn work between. The effect
is charming and will form lovely panels for
cotton dresses, and add the finish of hand
some apparent handwork, to gathered
sleeves and bOdlces.
Foularads have already been utilized in the
making up of spring costumes. A pretty
check, black and white, has gray silk vest
and panel full, the vest shocked at the
throat, the panel half way down. A small
bouquet of gray silk is made to wear with
the dress, and is trimmed with bows of
of feather-edged ribbon and gray velvet
leaves with very fine gold veining, small
black and white aigrette.
Some Of the old simple styles will be re-
vived this coming season and improved.
The Garabaldi bodice, shaped and Invested
of its untidy, baggy appearance, and the
straight or kilt-plaited skirt with apron
front. The gathered bodice will remain in
vogue for cotton dresses and the pretty
slightly gathered Princess polonaise be re-
vived. The straight, fat, redingote shape