Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-08-04

they are used as eyes to produce certain effects
| UT UT special parts OF design or course they re-
quire the Investment OF capital and Involve con-
s,ueraole risk that Is, greater risk than the use
OF common beads and tinsel naturally also they
are reserved for special orders and executed by
pert workers from original and attractive designs
Inere Is no end TO the possibilities In the execu-
uon OF lace and embroidery, and IL seems as II we
the NO, get beyond these two potent allies In
| a,ways one or the other or both that puts the
MAJ .ouches on any garment OF unusual elegance
CHARACTERISTIC COSTUMES.
, Ihe finest work in Paris, the original and most
beautiful designs, are all done to order. They are
not on exhibition once In a while 1t is possible
! 70 md and purchase something that has been
used as a model at comparatively low price, but
onsse are accidents, not 10 be relied upon II you
| oroer, and most Americans do who have money TO
| spend and not much time. you pay a price, which
snougn less than for the same thing imported into
| trlcts and who are not accustomed TO city exac-
lions, high and even extortionate. But there Is
you get the best materials-velvet that Is velvet,
SILK that Is silk, fur that Is fur, lace that
not hand Sni nn Or with ss
needle, not turned on In gross by machine.
Inere Is also difference, very marked, for those
VINO nave had experience enough to appreciate 1t,
| In cost OF costumes bought at such houses as
| Emile Pasquers and a corresponding hOuse-if
such existed in America IL Is house that makes
largely for French ladies' OF the best class and
robe recently shown, to be worn by French
trothal, was in the best possible taste 1t was Of
striped satin and MORE antique, In a pale shade
OF heliotrope The narrow front breadth, brought
TO point at the waist, was Of plain satin exact
shadel embroidered In arabesQues, with silk cords
and beads In mulberry, amber and garnet deep,
pointed gore OF embroidered satin was introduced
into the top OF the sleeves which were shaped and
descended below the elbow, and a fichu OF Flan-
ders lace was draped upon the pointed bodice. 1t
was strictly conventional costume, quiet but
rich and in excellent taste. The daughters cos.
tune was pale pink silk, In soft make of faille,
with long front drapery OF the same shade In pink
crepe-de-ehlne, caught upon both sides with white
MORE ribbon the ribbon forming a large butterfly
DOW on one SIDE and loops and ends on the other.
Inc Dodce was "A low surplce, the sleeves short;
| there was no edging of lace or tulle but there
| were abundant silk and lace quillings ON the
interior edge or the skirt. One thing French girls
never do, and that Is, wear ARTIFICIAL flowers In
punches upon their shoulders or any part of their
t Sr r Iseh oe taie dresses powdered with VIC
| ana very gay married women. or two dresses
made oy Madame Pasquier for a well-knOwn New
YORK lady, one was OF fawn-colOred cloth embroi-
dered In gold and silver; the other MordOre
brown velvet made with a Directore coat embrOi-
dereu upon the sides OF the front with shaded tea
| roses and worn with an embroidered satin waist
coat In pale gold color. The SKIRT was plated at
the oack put hung In perfectly straight rolds the
| coat-tails narrowing toward the bottom, nearly
covering the sides. A novelty in basoues has a
straight In the center, where it is attached 10 the
| fullness OF the skirt. This shapes the back very
styllshly II Is well managed; and the points may
De accentuated by passenenter1e
| VELVET AND LACE THE COMING FABRICS
Velvet is TO be the fabric OF the coming season
and the coat, with embroidered waistcoat In redin-
| cote or Directoire form, the fashion for dinner
| dresses and afternoon receptions. Embroidery
upon velvet is done by hand but IL is usually ap-
Piled. not often executed directly upon the gar
ment, except upon such as are designed as well as
| made to order. There is a tendency toward the
shortening OF the waist, because the Empire modes
are IL TIE aScendency or at least strongly contest
the place Of honor with the DirectOire designs
But bodlces are usually cut somewhat shorter In
Paris than in England or America, French women
being usually short and rather stout with shorter
waists and neckS than American and English
women. The lace boa which has been worn in
England fof Two or three seasons, and been re-
placed this year by the wide and long lace scarfs
In cream and black, have just found their
liz PERCUSSION at the Bon Marche and all
the large shops. 1t Is singular that they have not
found their way to America; but they would never
have been success, for a boa in summer, even OF
lace, would hardly be bearable with the thermom-
eter at ninety. Cotton dresses are an English
once so simply and so charmingy. In Paris they
are either negii0es, fused up with lace ami rib
6ons, or too formal This season, for the first
TO follow English models and produce a French
version Of the full bodice the belted waist ana the
full sleeve. The last has been difficult pill 10
swallow, and they would not have come to it IL
Worth had not set the example As II Is, they lay
the sleeves In tne folds or plaits. leaving It full
only over the elbow, and they shape yoke by fine
folds also. The bodice Is not straight but deepens
at the back to point and the skirt Is laid In lul
moyenage style, the belt worn above or started
from the side seams to hook over, with sash ends
at the LEFT of tbs 'front.'
AT THE BON MARcHE.
There Is not much fashion in Paris lust now
The world OF Paris is taking its pleasure else
where; but there are crowds daily at the Bon
Marche buying gloves for franc 95 centtmes go
cents) that are buttonless and very "5wel- or
regular Swedes, In six or eight button lengths
This OF course is an OCCASION and an coca
SION at the Bon Marche Is an event TO all Paris
short time since this house, which Is more remark
able In It's Internal system than even In its exter-
nal size and complextty had an occasion, exclu-
sively for the sale OF white goods and garments
The one days sale netted 1,sOOOOO francs and
Marche leeds its own employees, $500, every day
Its kitchens are a wonder, and its stan or cooks
equal to those OF several hotels. The whole region
is miracle OF cleanliness and order, and the most
perfect system. hundred men are employed In
washing dishes, and second stan exclusively in
cleaning knives The food is OF the best quality
and Is cooked dectously. The pots are huge
copper cauldrons, the baking pans larger than
the top OF an ordinary stove. Everything shines,
compare with any ordinary hotel. One hundred
girls are lodged In the house They each have o
room 10 themselves OF good size and very nicely
furnished. They are those who have no parents
or relatives living In Paris, and Madame BOuctcaulJ
took the space rom her own dwelling TO provide
Tor them, wnen the problem OF their proper prOtec
ton presented itself. Their wages over and above
their living, are obtained from the percentage on
their Sales and they often save enough 10 provide
themselves with a "dOt" or marriage portion. The
system OF the Bon Marche is unique aud the results
a marvel BY the death OF the founders the
enormous business has passed into the hands OF
directors, chosen BY The founders from old em-
pioJes who In turn choose a council, from which
directors Will be taken TO supply the place OF such
directors reach the age OF fifty at which period
they retire, by the terms OF the will from active
dictatorship, but with abundant means. In this
way the interests are carried on precisely the old
lines OF giving the best possible thing for the least
possible money, and the employe share in the
rewards. JENNIE JUSr
Country Summer PASTORAL.