The Memphis appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1886-1890, 1888-01-07
THE FASHIONS.

Turquoises, opals and pearls are in highs
fashion.
There Is rage at present for fancy jew-'
elry in fine gold and solidslver, both plain
and oxidized. The dainty patterns are
wholly novel.
The archiduc is q stately wrap in seal,
long and luxurious, close-fitting in the
back, and nearly 80 in front. The wrap is
bordered with Russian sable, and has u
very deep cape collar TO match.
Pretty Normandy caps are WON with
skating costumes, these made of silk velvet
or plush, the folds carried very high in
front above the waves OF hair. A jaunty
model is made Of moss-green velvet. In
front, among the upright folds OF the vel
vet, is twisted large soft knot OF yellow
velvet. The cap is otherwise decorated
with fine gold cord and large gold
buckle.
Among the ideal cloth costumes are
those in princesse style, made in elegant
simplicity and beautifully finished. The
bodice portion and the breadths in front
and over the hips fit without a wrinkle,
and are absolutely devoid OF puff or loop
ing. Some of the new models made OF
German broadcloth are slashed up each
side, showing an deliberately braided petit
coat beneath, the braiding also bordering
the slashed breadths in a narrower pattern.
All the drapery is gathered close at the
back and applied to the center forms Of
the bodice.
In the list OF expensive evening wraps
are those made OF snowdrop-white soldiers
cloth in pelisse and redingotc shapes,
trimmed with single row of fine gold pas
sementerie down each side OF the seam in
the back, on the half-open sleeves, and
across the center OF the deep collar. The
mantle is bordered down the front and on
the extrcpe edge Of collar and sleeves with
n wide bahd of white Persian lambskin.
The wrap is fastened with gold buttons
and fine gold cord brandebourgs.
Lace for full dress occasions still prevails,
but il is used more for petticoats and unh
derdresses than for entire toilets, thong
these, made of lace OF rare quality and ddV
sign, are quite fashionable. Wide lacoN
flounces, draped over corded silk skirts,
have arranged above them long, straight
panels, richly embroidered in silk or in
silk and beads. These are attached 10
sharp pointed Josephine corsage. The
train is but slightly draped in the back,
and is arranged in deep gathers low on tho
pointed edge OF the cuirass bodice.
Many oriental effects and much oriental
coloring is employed for the handsome ins
door dresses worn this season, and the raro
and costly eastern tissues, flower brocaded
and wrought with beads, are extensively
used Tor evening toilets. China silks arc
brought out in pale, lovely tints OF prim-
rose and willow green, flesh color, cameo,
turquoise blue OF exquisitely delicate
shade, ccru, pale terracotta, amber, silver,
and mauve. Many OF these charming coll
ors when combined, blend most admira-
bly,.
Full undriped skirts made 10 cling rath-
or closely in front, bodices in Josephine
and Marie Stuart styles, quantity shaped
sleeves velvet peasant waists with Russian
guimpes above OF surah, and Louis Quinze
coats over richly embroidered waistcoats
are among the picturesque Partisan effects
of new gowns. There are also girdles,
half belts, reaching from under the arms
only, odalisque sashes, magnificent an,
tique brocadcs In exquisitely beautiful
changeable effects, novel fur garnitures
both for home and street uses, military
decorations for promenade, and visiting
costumes OF broadcloth or heavy camcps
hair and great variety Of minor accesso-
ries that impart look OF novelty to famil-
lar materials, and which are utilized In
many ways upon wraps, dresses, hats and
bonncts.
There are many varities Of sleeves IN
wear this winter. Some are open 10 theN
elbow, with velvet sleeves showing below,
or for dress occasions the small close part
pay be OF a bcad-embroidered tissue,
which is always unlike the material Of tho
dress. On the upper part OF the sleeve Is
an epaulette, also made OF beads. Tho
real Italian sleeve Is much used for
women's and children's dresses, but Is
rather narrower than the original design.
One OF the antique sleeves shows the under
part flat, while the upper portion is slightly
gathered on the shoulder and at the start
ing point Of the deep wrist-piece, which is
always Of a contrasting material. This
piece buttons up the back or laces on tho
side. Oriental styles also prevail for
sleeves, and upon imported gowns theyare
made In Jewish, Grccian and Turkish
fashion, especially those designed for