Evening journal., 1888-07-03
fspaciai Correspondence.l


has not a familiar aspect, there is something
analogous in it to what one might see in
Pennsylvania or kentucky. Occasionally
the train passes between rounded heights that
rise on either side and are green to the sum
nit. Here I noticed small herds Of cattle. OF
good breeds, helping themselves to rich pas
tursge There is also more plentiful dis
tribution Of water on the surface, a running
stream here and there or a pond that a Cali
fornian might dignity by the name OF lake.
IN these low parts there is everywhere an
abundance of water fowl As the train
passes they skim out on the surface at right
angle, and leave an agitation on the water
like ripping harrow drawn by the bird
We shoot Mt them now and then, a sport
which is, doubtless, moro amusing to the
ducks than to ourselves.
It is well toward nightfall when our train
approaches San Diego. There is a little
furry Of preparation, little excitement for
a view Of the ocean on our right, and here
we are The greater number are expected
at the Hotel st. James, but few of us take
the ferry, cross the bay and make with all
speed for the famous Del Coronado. Time is
not for anything tonight, except to provide
for the morrow's comfort and pleasure.
Those of us who crossed the harbor, to
spend the night on the Coronado beach, were
astonished on entering our rooms at the hotel.
to hear a sort Of thunder and roar, as il a
battle and rain storm had combined their
energies outside. Up with the window, and
here it is. The Pacific lies below, tumbling
and roaring against the very battlements of
the hotel All night long the sublime SYM
phony goes on and on, as it has done for in
Nnifa auaa ax7on bafora tho or,o.l 80 .....,
Welcome to its roarl Welcome TO its maies-
tic thunder, its rhythm of the surf and its
perpetual beating on the shore 1t was the
throb Of the sunny sea, the polyphloisboia
Thalassa Of Homer, ON the sands Of the
Agean Islands and around the coasts Of an
cient Peloponnesus, that put into the ears and
spirits of the Hellenic bards Of old times the
pulse beat and music Of their sounding hexa-
meters.
With tho morning light we are all astir
on both sides Of the bay 60 see what things
soever San Diego has to oger. The writer in
early morning took the street cars and as
cended to the highland north Of the city,
from which fine view can be had of all be-
low. The car that carried him up to the
summit was propelled by electricity. Even
SO il is that we have lived so long and Jour
neyed from the older states OF the Union,
deep rooted by time and development and
boasting much of the accumulation Of the
progressive forces Of society, to this far south
west and extreme verge of our country to
what was an old Spanish town, to take our
first ride i'm an electric car
San Diego is a living competitor with her
fellow cities OF the California valleys for the
prizes Of the future. had expected, how
ever, TO see n better eqlipoise TO Los An
Diego is able TO present. The Queen OF the
Angels has fully three times as many people,
according 20 my estimate; and the southern
city win have TO travel far before she comes
up with her rival Nevertheless, many
things may be truthfully said Of the vigor
recently displayed in the development of the
city of the south; and to the efforts which
her citizens arc putting forth to raise her
rank and influence must be added the ever
memorable fact of her magnificent harbor
/ have already remarked upon the scarcity
of havens along the Pacific coast, and have
said something as to the relative merits Of
the bay OF San Diego and that Of San Fran
cisco. repeat that the former is for its ex-
tent as fine and safe a sheet of water as may
be found on the shore of any ocean. Whilo
we were in the city. one Of the government
ironclads came 20 anchor at the pier, and the
heaviest ship on any sea might do the same
Besides, the bay, though not Of the largest
dimensions, is sufficiently capacious. If Los
Angeles should be arrogant in her boasting,
San Diego may wen respond BY showing
map Of her splendid harbor.
Only a few years ago this Coronado beach
was merely long, low plain of sand Moth
ing could be less promising in its natural as
pect than was this desert beach. But the
shrewd eye of enterprise saw the possibilities
Of the situation; the peninsula is already re-
claimed; palm trees are here; a park is there;
flowers are blooming in the new made lawns;
and yonder rises one OF the finest hotels in
America. 1t is not yet completed at the time
Of our visit, bat is sufficiently advanced to
receive some hundred or two Of guests The
structure is of wood. The building is a great
quadrangle, including, within, the largest
hotel court between the Atlantic and
the Pacific. The court is sward
crossed with stone walks and having
a fine fountain in the center. The most fra
grant flowers and beautiful shrubs are planted
here and there; and the air brings to the
senses of the guest the sweet perfume oflearlv
or perennial blossoms. The marvels Of the
hotel are the magnificent court, the ample
theator in one part of the structure and the
beautiful dining hall not yet finished The
latter win be one Of the most elegant in tho
country. It is a parabola in shape and fin
ished throughout in redwood whether Of the
sequoin scmper virens or Of cedar, am not
certain. The Hotel. Del Coronado as a whole
is worthy to take equal rank with two others
in CalifoInia-the Del Monte, of Monterey,
and the Raymond, Of Pasadena. These
three constitute a group by themselves, and
above them is seen only the Palace OF San
Francisco.
A walk Of few minutes from the north
steps OF the Del Coronado brings US to an os-
trich farm. Why the word farm is applied
to it hardly know It has a comparatively
small area of ground, perhaps an acre. It is
bounded with a close fence, high enough to
prevent the escape Of the ostriches. OF these
there are thirteen. in a sort of corral, inside
the inclosure Their three pronged, gro
tesque feet have beaten every sign of vegeta-
ton from the arena; and they have the
pleasure of sauntering about over the sand
as in their native desert. Some Of these sol
emn creatures are black as to their wing
feathers and tail, others a kind of saffron
color, ard both varied with patches OF white.
Some parts Of their bodies present only a sur
face of Wrinlled skin. The beals is rather
useful than aggressive IN its construction,
and the eye IS the most strangely introspec-
dive organ that 1 ever saw ii bird or beast.
It suggests to you that the posscssor has been
studying into the mysteries of buddhis.a, s..ss