New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-11-04
COMFORT AND LUXURY.
WOMAN'S WARM CLOTHES.

outer garments and sirtng, rather than to undcr"es
The mcrno underwear which has been offered IN inc
shops for many years has been model OF uglness ~
shape. There seemed to be fixed belief In most peoPo
that such coarse Ilshaped garments were neceSss,
sacrifice health. Manufacturers appeared TO th'nA
It would be undignlhed for them make any conccs-
sion to beauty in the cut and make OF such prao-
tlcal clothing. For many years past there has pee"
growing demand for woollcn underwear, coming iro".
all sources. People I'm all grades of life have adop'eu
so-cacd woollen undcigarments and the majority U,
intelligent people to-day undcrVest OF WOOL
or silk at all seasons o. the year. The immense ue
nand for merno underwear led manufacturers to rvi
competition. Every trick was rcsOrted TO 10 reduce
the price OF merlno and OF late years the qualify Oh '
these garments has deteroracd so that now ny lar ~
larger quantity of mcrinc sold in market Is sinp'
heavy cotton stockinet without any WOOL y snaiio,
quantity contains about twenty-five per cent OIL WV
and the best English grades not over fifty per cent Or
IN very exceptional cases. trac Merfno. which
once meant a goods of all wool, Is now trade term
for a mixture of cotton and wool WISE pracuo~'
peope have found that merno is heavy but not warm
a mere sham to meet their demand for wool underwear
and fasdlous women say that 1t Is neither warm nor
pretty that 1t IS so cumsily made that 1t lies In heavy
awkward folds under their corsets, interfering WIN
the contour Of the finest fitting French corsage-
The sanitary wool undergarments and the ribbed
underwear of Atwood silk and wool and pure SIX are
drawback 10 the introduction OF either is the careless
laundress and manufacturers Of both styles OF gar
mcnts give valuable directions for washihe "hcn "'o
substantially the and ought to be printed IN pou
tyne I'm every laundry the land where wooen cloth
is washed. The fabric of the sanitary wool under
wear is a fine AL wool stocknet which comes In nat
uralr gray a mixture Of white and dark Sleeps wool.
and in pure white. The finest grade OF Australian
sleeps wool IS used In the manufacture OF this STOCK
met and it is the perfection of fine soft wool fabric
The dealers prefer to recommend their gray mixed
goods for every one, but few women willing TO
wear a coored undergarment and the medium quality
Of white sanitary stocknet is popular for ladies'
and chlldrens uso. The undeTvest for ladies made
by the normal system is icrseyke garment OF this
elastic siocknet. II is high in the neck with long
sleeves and double the entire front over the lungs
and abdomen 1t is made in two styles, buttonng IN
front and at the side. single dart fits the vest 10
the figure and sl cht trimming of lace naments the
neck The greatest drawback 10 these garments Is
the made seams II by any Improvement this sanitary
undcrvest could be woven like jersey 1t would seem
to have solved the problem of underwear in the
slceved high necked shapes II Is dainty TO look upon
and wholesome wear, but some individuals ma the
made seams, or fe,led sewn seam. quite uncomfortable
and use the ribbed seamless vest which IS not as
dainty material and probably not as pure wool
Ladies' sanitary vests in the medium weight quality
and thirty four inch size 90 81. There are.
spite OF theory, many ladies' who feel unoomfortaby
stifed in a high-necked longsleeved undervest ana
many others who high-necked vest but cannot
endure a sleeve in any undcrgament For such he
ietcal individuals the sanitary wool dealers make no
provision they keep the beautiful soft white and
the mixed gray stocklnet Of which these garments
made By the yard in tubular weave, so that the side
seams are avoided The medium quality In the
width for thirty inch garment In white Is ~ % In
mixed. gray. and 81 IS in white. The sanitary under
wear is certainly boon to many nvalds and delicate
. 4
The long creamy white nghtgowns Of wool are dainty
and certainly comfortable for many occasions when
a woolcn garment OF this kind Is very desirable, es-
pecially in travel land water. In medium
size they cost 81 II each
Fashionable women usually wear the ribbed under
wear of pure silk and wool pure wool because they
are made in Sly les suited TO with evening cor
sages. Ladies' who full dress frequently during
the find It necessary TO wear low-necked and
sleeveless underwear in order to avoid too violent
change when decollete corsages are worn, and feel
more comfortable in such wdervest fitting closely
to the figure and woven without seams than in any
thing heavier. Good qualities of ribbed wool under
garments range from a. upward and the best quail
ties Of ribbed silk underwear begin in price at 50
and So Ribbed underwear IN all styles comes in
sleeveless garments high in the neck heart shaped.
pointed low in the neck, and in garments high in the
neck with half long sleeves. Fastidious women usu.
ally select white silk underwear More pronounced
colors are avoided
Flannel skirts are made OF twed French flannel.
OF ribbed knit goods and Of sanitary stOcknet In the
fashionable furnishing shops twilled white flannel is
the favOrte material The skirt Is made with hem
finished the top with feather stitching and scant
ruffie embroidered with the needle in white silk Oc-
casionally the hem IS finished with scant ruie OF
creamy wool lace and often with ruile Of flannel
embroidered with wool anG silk instead of in solid
silk: sometimes little color introduced in this en-
brOidery. japanese skirts, quilted, Of black taffca
silk soft wool filing the lightest warm bal
moral skirts offered in the shops When these too
warm = skirt Of silk lined with wool is chosen. For
driving and extreme cold weather wadded skirts OF
Alaska down. japanese skirts Of quilted taffeta
silk are 81. Satin skirts $40 upward.
The fashion OF the gown has brought into as
house gowns variety Of loose Oriental dresses which
are between a princess dress and wrapper These
gowns are front and usually fitted at the back
4 graceful gown Of cream white wool, nearly covered
with an all-over pattern OF japanese motif in India
blue IS fitted the back loose in front, opens over
loose vest extending the length Of the gown and made
of soft crcam-white wool blue and white cord and
tasscl is draped as glrdle around the gown. Soft
old rose mauSc shades, old blue and turquoise blue
hanncls in plain goods striped figured effects ara
fashionable for these house gowns and for the French
breakfast sacques which also with matinee
skirts for morning Plain hannes preferred for
sacques and wrappers 10 plads or stripes Folded
Drectorc vests or wide collars and large turned
back to show high pointed vest are seen in the new
French sacques. Trimmings OF lace are no longer
seen The garniure IS confined ribbon girdles or cords
10 fine pleating Of surah embroidered scallops on
the edge done by the needle and to feather stitches II
various odd pretty patterns used 10 finish hens A
/ charming sacque in pale rose Hammer is meulum II
length fitted al the back and loose in front. The hen
around the sacquc IS finished In an odd feather suei
and a deep fall Of pink surah laid in fine pleats formi
the collar and turns back on the sleeve a. a cum
| Dainty wrappers OF pale pink fannel striped WIN
deep shade OF rOsecOlOr are made with full fronts
cream vhito wool striped with hair lines OF pink IN
sleeves OF the wrapper arr flowing from the shoulder
and a second undeIslceve OF harlined wool covers IN
! arm A gir1Ile Of pink ribbon confines the gown
/ the waist.
Cans for house dress are OF fancy figured silk hand
kercbefs in tiny delicate patterns and bright cOlOrs
they arc furnished with double plcaiing OF lace OF
~ ollrc Thcrn arc also lainiN cans for NOun