Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1888-08-29
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FASHION AT SARATOGA.

FASHION AT SARATOGA.
INDEPENDANT wAIsTs-NEw WAYS OF
MAKING - LONG cLoAKs - INDIVIDUAL
CosTUMEs-LEss BUsTLE IN THE WORLD.
Independant waists are leading feature,
and remarkable for prettiness and convent
ence. Materials hitherto thought quite un-
suitable, are utilized and with advantage,
the most notable being the nets of the day
in all their different colors and patterns
Most of the nets, though varied by stripes,
dots, leaves, buds, &c., are in solid color
and placed over surah and satin to match,
but cream color or black with small colored
hgures or in black patterns or striped, give
change and the foundation is according
to fancy. The usual way of making is es-
pecially becoming to their figures, since
tucks or shirring about the neck. in yoke
style, are prelude to fullness below, while
the sleeves if need be, can show a success
sion of puffs. Point d. esprit is in great
favor for independant waists or entire
dresses in black should always of course
be of silk, but colored cotton point d. es-
prit is not at all shabby and makes pretty
waists over inexpensive silesia lining
Light weight silk is likewise very popular
for these waists and is also made up with
tucks or shirring, with fulIness below;
crepe de chine is a lovely substitute, but in
deed all their fabrics, including lawn or
null. are pressed into service and with
charming result. The skirt portion can be
worn either tucked in or outside and they
are often belted in by ribbon with plat of
long loops and ends on one side, while their
popularity has brought about demand for
belts, which display special novelty, being
of dressed or undressed kid in stylish shades
of tan, gray or blue or Russian leather with
new design buckles of gilt, steel or silver.
Stout people are warned against these
waists, and can the more readily avoid
as fashionable. Here, the material is of
course heavier, and they fit closer, aud by
choosing dark colored, tight-ftting
basque, plump woman can wear a skirt
of light or bright color which should other
wise be denied her. The fit of these inde-
pendent basques is very important, and
fashionable dressmakers here are giving
preference to the Thomson glove-ftting
corsets, not only because of the long,
slender waist and high bust, but because
of individual adaptation, since they come
in three sizes, short, medium and long, so
as to suit every one. Those made in pale
rose color, blue, dove or scarlet satine are
most worn in this dressy place, but equally
we'll fitting styles come in coutil or jean at
moderate prices.
PRETTY THRoATs.
After years of imprisonment in high,
stiff collars, pretty throats can at last be-
come visible, since fashion allows the dress
mack to come down in very becoming
point. High collars as yet, however, are
the rule, and in general continued with
scrupulous care for the uncomfortable, as
witness the hot velvet bands placed about
the necks of satteen, gingham, India silk
and other dresses selected for GOODNESS and
reserved for warm days. Some thin
necked people also, with amarvelous blind
ness to their own defects, are thoughtless
enough to wear dresses open at the throat,
while plump and white complexioned
women neglect possibility so long denied
them. This is as surprising as the infatu-
ated manner in which mammoth women
persist in choosing mammoth patterned
dresses and thin women, narrow stripes
The former class in truth, are particular
feature at Saratoga, and the composure
with which they display themselves in rigs
intended for the tall and slender, Is study.
If rightly chosen, however, almost every
one looks to advantage in the long cloaks
that are a speciality this summer and have
peculiar style. I would emphasize some
what regarding them, because they will be
worn in the autumn, and serve not only to
protect a handsome dress when driving,
but for the genteely poor, may conceal a
costume no longer fresh. The mohair
travelling cloaks are models in their way;
dressier ones being of solid colored silk,
made without lining and therefore COOL
The majority are ON the Raglan or New
market order, the former for the stout and
the latter for the slender, while new speci-
mems of long cloaks adapted only to thin
people, show round yoke to which arc
gathered or plated, straight, full breadths
that completely envelope the figure. In
the back, at the waist line, the fullness is
shirred to an inside belt, but the front
hangs loose.
DRESSES.
designs which always have pecu-
liar style. Grape poulard is another lovely
material in favor for choice evening dresses,
but after all, the lace and drapery net cos
tunes lead for evening. One of the most
refined, worn recently. was of black lace
over white surah, combined with fine Jet
and passementerie set on the side where
the lace fell open. Another charming cos
tune worn by Mrs. Cyrus Field, was of
black chantilly over mahogany silk, the
draperies hanging almost plainly SO as to
show the pattern. Miss Julia Morosiui
(Victoria's sister) attracts much attention
as she is really quite pretty and of course
dresses fashionably. A much admired
evening dress lately worn by her was of
white China silk and lace, trimmed with
pink moss rose buds another was of pale
blue moire, combined with an exquisite
brocade showing sprays of pale pink morn
ing glories on pale blue surface; third
costume being of white silk drapery net
over white silk and trimmed with pale
green ribbons and pink flowers. One of
the pretJiest dinner dresses was worn lately
by daughter of Judge Hilton and COM
bination of crepe de chine and moire silk
In pale pink and gray, was trimmed with
ribbon to match and white lace. Velvet
holds it's own even in warm weather, for
entire costumes or parts of them, nor would
l be bound to say how largely velutina is
employed as q substitute. Detection be-
comes the more difficult, because the last
named material has the short, crisp touch
of velvet, quite different from the plush
like feeling of some other goods used to
simulate the genuine fabric. Bustles do
not go as they have been expected to do.-
They have been written down quite enough