The Manning times. [volume] (Manning, Clarendon County, S.C.) 1884-current, 1888-09-12
HINTS FOR FALL DRESSES.
FASHION DICTATES TO THE FAIR
Sen FOX THE COMING SEASON.

sen FOR THE COMING SEASON.
Sensible and Simple Garments the Rule
The Tournure to KemainSin Yogue--Ihe
Directoire, Empire and La Tosca Cos.
Tunes and Their Features.
+ Correspondents New York Star - :,
There having been no end of talk and
inquiry regarding the question OF; the
tournure, and whether or not dresses will
still be made with reeds across the back
breadth of the foundation skirt. / have
been to all the leading retail and whole
sale houses and seehcalf of the importa-
tions for this fall; and I can state posi-
lively that the tournure will still be worn.
All the imported cloaks, jerseys and
suits are made for just about the same
amount of hustle that We have been
wearing through spring and sum
mer. The suits are made with reeds OF
steals in the back, although different
modistes vary both the number and the
way OF placing them; some using two,
others three, and others again four, but
they all obtain virtually the same effect,
and that is a modified tournure, enough
to lift the skirts few inches from the
back, relieving you from the heat and
weight, and giving foundation upon
which to arrange and drape the skirt.
Women's dresses were never made
more sensibly than at present, being
just long enough to escape the
ground and save the braid and facing
from being cut out or soiled. The skirt
is in the standard four-gored shape with
back breadths, across which the reeds ar
range and hold in place the customary
boufant back-should be about two and
one-haf yards around the bottom "a trlie
wider for very stout women). This width
gives ample freedom In walking yet there
| IS no unnecessary fullness and: there is
Just sufficient hustle to support Sthe
weight and give graceful contour to
the back of the skirt and drapery, which
latter can be most effectually arranged
and firmly tackled to the reeds in the
lining.
Fashion is this season certainly upon
the side of the economical woman and
home dressmaker, for her edict is that
skirts must be much more simply made
and trimmed than they have been for
some time, and also allow wearing waists
different in color and material from the
skirts. Blouses of maroon and dark
red, OF surah or foulards, look beautifully
with black silk or cashmere skirts, and
which of us hasn't several skirts bereft
Of their bodices that can be turned and
made over for house or home wear with
one of those pretty blouses? OF course
any pretty contrast or combination of
skirt and waist can be used, according
to ones taste and the wardrobe.
For more elegant occasions there are
the Direcsoire jackets. From the front
edge of these the broad directoire rev ers
are turned back from the neck to lii tie
below the bust (about two inches from
the waist line).. Between the reYers is
visible the closely fitted waisteoat (or
vest), which is longer than the jacket,
showing about two inches below it. Thus
You see considerable of the vest, which
may be of different and very elegant
material, or can be richly embroidered
in gold and silver or else covered with
braid.
The fall fashion show three distinctive
ly new styles of dresses-the Directolre
toilette, the Empire gown and La Tosca'
costume. .e7r; :,
The special feature of the Directoire
costume is the waist, the waist, the broad.
reYers and high collar and cuffs. These.
are always OF thessame material as the
-waistcoat, which is susually different from,
the body Of the toilet; oftenenot only OF
different material, but Of contrasting
color. Three large buttons decorating
each front below the reyers, are, In fact
one feature of the Directoire gowns and
may be of silver orgold flagree, or OF
French porcelain handsomely painted to
match the costume. They are elegant
but very expensive. -
The second style, or~Empire gown, IS
quite new, havingshort (or .'oun9 waists
made with all the seams and darts re-
quired for snug, basque-ike tit, with
full surplice-hke pieces ssWed in at the
shoulder seams and arranged broadly on
the fronts, crossing each below the bust.
A velvet facing covers the visible por-
ton of the front between the surplces,
Stimulating vest which may be framed
by prettily shaped rolling collar OF
velvet thas extends to the bust with the
effect Of revers.
The sleeves either have puff at the
top OF are cut slightly full and gathered
on top before sewing into the arm hole;
and the fullness at the hand is confined
by several rows of shirring forming the
cuff. The straight round skirt goes with
tae costume, and may be bordered or
trimmed around the bottom. It can be
pleated on to the band or have at the
top five rows of shirring IAN inch apart,
forming a deep yoke of shirring, and is
sewed firmly to the round waist, about
which, as a finish, is worn broad sash
or girdle of ribbon or surah, fastened at
the left side and having two long ends
and loops falling or hanging straight
down nearly to the bottom of the skirt.
This is very pretty and simple way to
make your house dresses.
The third style, La Tosca, which may
he said to be modiier Directoire, has
the basque front opened and finished with
revers which reveal shirred vest front;
and has broad girdle finishing across
the waist, giving a short wasted appear
ance, although in reality it is cut rather
long wristed.
Do not be induced to place full ruche
at your neck. Use instead black or white