Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1888-01-29
CITY OF SAUSAGES.
WILL CARLETON WRITES ABOUT SlGhiS
AND SCENES IN ITALY.
The CITY Of B~OOgna-An Italians Devotion % dis
Chueh-AnOng the Tonbs Of laly's Dead
Ornaments Of Hotels
RnaciaI CORRESPONDENCE

il the next Italian State south OF Nenslta'
and is in extent almost equal to Ne"
Jersey. with about twice as many lnhaol-
tants. Il is named after EmiliusIepidus'
a Roman consul who built roads through
il one hundred and eighty-seven years DC
1 fore Christ. And here we are at Its capital
BOLOGNA, a city of one hundred and thirty
thousand inhabitants, and noted ioI .
great many things besides sausages. put
still, these cylinders OF mystery are not
the least of the curiosities. Inere arc
whole shops devoted to them. Nenoers
~festoon them over the counters as dry-goods
men do ribbons and laees; they slice them
off and sell them in thin shavings at a IL"
cents apiece; they build huge sausages
three feet in circumference and short IN
proportion. l may remark here, not In
connection with the above facts, but as d
matter of personal observation, hat MEM
bers of the canine race are very scarce III
Bologna.
Like almost every Italian town OF any
SIZE, this city is proud OF her churcnes,
She has a hundred and thirty OF them-or
one to every thousand inhabltants-nearly
all Catholic. of course. They ali have
their treasures of silver and gold; many OF
them possess paintings, carvings, other
works of art that there is scarcely enough
money in the world to buy. In Italy the
church is the poor mans palace, his refuge,
his picture.gallery, his councll-roOm, ana
his daily or weekly pIayer-meetlng. lie
is taught by his very mother to consider
it the most sacred place IN the universe
except Heaven. When Sunday comes ne
does not stay at home and let his wife DO
the prayipg for both. Whatever may De
said against the Catholic Church, one TACT
must be admitted-its preachers do not
speak to empty pews. ..
The largest church in Bologna is that OF
Saint Petronio. They wanted to MAKE IL
thirty-three rods long, but like the boy
who would grasp q great many hl6erts IN
the decanter, they undertook too much,
and had TO content themselves with o
church twenty three rods long and with a
sadly abridged plan. But 1t ID a grshu
edifics.
1t is also a favorite of all ~wOmanklnd,
because it contains certain bas-relleis,
made by PropOIzia di ROssi. This was
mt an eccentric, absent-minded man, but
a beutiful and bewitching lady, who work
I'd away with no suspicion that she was
d~emeaning herself or her sex. She was q
sculptor, a musician, an engraVer, ana a
painter, and worked at them all with
masculine energy and womanly refinement.
When at last she tell in love, she did not
see WHY she should not o. the object OF
her attachment the same rs o man might
do, and so she made it exceedingly lively
for young Mr. Malvasia, the object OF her
attachment. He was shy and coy, and
not easily won; but she pursued him with
her brush, and painted their pictures to-
gether in so many endearIng attitudes that
he was finally Obliged to yield, In order to
save himself from the g~OOd-natured re-
proaches of his friends. 1t ls, perhaps,
well enough that there is once in a while
a woman who does not propose to let men
do all the proposing.
The Church, of ST Dominica was founded
by that celebrated priest who also In
stituted the order Of Dominicans. The
most interesting thing IN this church---or,
ct least, the one that will excite the most
curiosity-is the head of Ssropblnl Cop
pone, who died four hundred years ago,
but whose shrivelled face yet staIes at the
the pasSer-by from q glass covered niche In
the wall. 1t is a little startling to see IN q
frame instead of the picture OF q person the
face of the person itself; but this ls what
one finds quite frequently in Italian
churches.
The university here is also a favorite
subject Of contemplation with the gentleI
sex, because it has at one time and another
possessed several lady professors--all Of
whom have proved successes. The pre-
posterous story Is told of one OF them that
she kept her face behind a curtain during
her lectures, lest the young gentlemen OF
the class should fall in love with her and
lose the thread of the discourse, thuslnter-
fsripg with their studies. That may have
happened in some world where hnman
nature is arranged upon entirely different
principles from this, but | decline to be-
iievs that it ever happened upon our globe,
The university once had ten thousand
students. and must have kept the town in
a state of .mind-if the average student
methods were about the same as low.
They have at present only four hundred.
and l found the place 4 triie lonely. But
the shades of hundreds Of illustrious grad
yates linger about the old buildings, and
one large room is filled with their coats-of-
arms. Calvin, who discovered and gave
the name to galsinism, taught here IN 8
room which is now held sacred to him; II
is finished off grandly but simply in wood
of the cedar of Lebanon Some ofthe seats
in other recitation rooms were scratched
and linked and whitfield about the same as
| have seen them in America. The students
who fingered about were for the most part
fresh-faced, dark-eyed italian boys.
have in these letter said considerable
concerning cemeteries; but who can keep
them ont of his mind when travelling in
this country? The Italian tours: rides
and walks through cemeteries. Every
church is one; almost every house. Mu-
seums and galleries are crowded with
sarcophagi, from which the clay has been
torn. So numerous are the dead of ali
these centuries. that one can almost fancy
that each new corpse repeats to the Others
the old epitaph:
"Esrls and monsrchs of the dead,
That 50 long the worms have fed,
lam coming 10 your chilly bed.
Edge close, and give me room"
IL Is q great pleasure ID praise tue
Campo Santo" OF Bologna; il is the hand
soonest cemetery | have yet found in Italy.
The tomhs are placed in cheerful covered
arcadss, through which one can walk as if
among beautiful streets, with tiny man.
sions upon each side. Safe from weather
and sacrilege, beautiful marble busts look
down upon you everywhere, containing the
features of those who are gone. Often the
photograph of the loved one smiles into
the eyes of those who placed il there amid
their tears. Regal garlands Of blossoms
are thrown over the tomhs with no fear. rs
in some outdoor cemeteries, that they
may he stolen. Sometimes one encounters
a regular little conservatory, with flowers
thrittily and peaceably growing. Among
the magnificent works of art is the statue
OF Marshal Murat, once King of Naples,
by the grace of Napoleon, with all his gor-
geous uniform glowing and cleaning under
the sculptor's chisel. Not far from him is
the innocent face of 3 girl.chld, whonever
could have lived long enough to read even
the primer Of strife.
Cemeteries? Even the second-foor hall
| 90 49, lAs.l An-o -. r,ll - Al u .I