New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-09-09
AUTUMN WRAPS.
PRETTY JACKETS AND GRACEFUL LONG
CTOAKS.

coats and NANTES of cloth and camels hair which do
not differ essentially in shape from those worn on cool
days during the summer. Goats are Urine ionser
than they have The effort Of certain manuiact
urers to revive the quarter length garment has
met with no success but has merely resulted in the
adoption of medium short coat, decidedly longer than
the extremely short garments In vogue last Winter
Fashionable tailors making these coats for ia wear
Of fancy trouserngs, in variety of fine satin stripes
sunk In a wool background; Of plain diagonal cloth
with a fino or a vale and of the dull-hnishcu
CLAY dagonals Fall coats are usually finished with
stitched edges and may fastened with fiy-front
under which the buttons concealed or win t"ls'
| buttons in basket pattern and tflne laisor
than those used coats last season. Plain, closely
fitted straight around coats are always popular VITA
| velldressed women These coats, which are moulded
to the figure By the expert tailor are frequently prideo
! with heavy black Russian braids wound with uhSel.
The front Is usually Tapped to one side, WIDE
pattern of braidng extending down the font ID vest
! like pattern. Loosefront coats arc among inc new
shapes They are rather longer at the front than at
the back and are butoned high at the top, showing
| little of the vest Stylish coats of golden brown
striped with hair lines in Suede color sunk IN inc WOOL
are made with Suede-colored vests lndisunct cash
mere effects seen in some OF The new s"ipeu
woolens used for Jackets loose-front jacket, inc
reverse collar turned back display the vest at TOP
and cut away to show the vest at the BOTTOM IS
shane of tailor coats. TaiOrs' usters are usually
made with double -breased loose fronts, Oh oco'ch
chcvots or homespuns for the intermediate season.
Later In the winter they Will be made OF plain cloths
handsomely trimmed with fur. The Norfolk ulsier'
nleated 10 the front OF the garment Is fayorte shape
For winter wear ard late autumn, Russian cloaks
with double circular fronts and lifted backs, ana
Irish peasant cloaIs, shirred around the shouiu'i
in yoke shape pleated to high yoke OF VelVet
or brading, Will be fashionable. These cloaks are
now imported of rough homespun and soft camePs
hair goods with facings and hoods lined with MORE
or silk, and with velvet trimmings. The new iohg
cloaks are lined throughout with silk in changeabie
effects, fine fancy stripes or solid colors. handsome
| cloak of iron-gray camers hair cloth is made In a
modification Of the Irish peasant cloak. 1t Is ht~d
at the back with short yoke in front on which the
Illness Of the circular front IS laid in succession
! NJ MEATS A fine pattern Of bralding covers the
yoke extending down the front In narrow, suai git
vcst,like piece and down the middle forms Oh the
back as far as tho fullness Of the tournure. The
long cloaks for fall frequently prepared OF light
cloths such as camels hair cloths and smoothly fin
ished figured vlgognes, which require lining OF
silk to give them proper weight. Such long wraps
of light wool trimmed with passementerles or
| velvet in dark, contrasting coors A stylish wrap
OF gray vigognc, figured in darker shade with an
arabesoue pattern In aOver design, Is long enough TO
reach TO the foot of the dress 1t IS lined throughout
with gray taGcta shot with coral color. The back is
the cloak fits smoothly the figure. The front Is
loose and straight TO the foot, but Is conhheu
at the waist by a twoinch girde of dark velvet Long
| pointed angel sleeves trimmed with velvet, and
velvet collar complete the garment Some exceedingly
stylish circular coaIs for slender figures are fitted
at the back and finished with second cape, barely
covering the arms, and formed of succession of
| pleats
There arc many little nantes Of arabesque WOOL
Of coored cancels hair cloth and of cashmere imported
for autumn. There also many shapes which are
neither coats mantles but combination OF BOTH
OF this class with mantle fronts and NANTES
which fit the figure smoothly and are coats in every
thing except In the sleeve which may be of the sling
or the dolman order. Later in the season 1t IS
probable that many plain NANTES will be worn In
colors to harmonic with the dress, or In black
The short NANTES for autumn are usually trimmed
with black braldng black passemcnterie, or with
velvet like the long coaks. Nantes Of black mat
alasse in the heavy velvet and satin brocaded patterns
and those figured in India coors imported this season
will be trimmed with fine jets and fur.
rbs wraps imported for dressy carriage wear, for
winter receptions and afternoon teas, are invariably
long, made of a variety of rich pushes, brocades and
velvet A long coat from Pingat, received by lead
ing importer of the city, direct copy of one made
for the Queen of Portugal 1t is tisht-tttlng long
surtout of green velvet, with long angel sleeves,
which drop from the shoulder and reach to the foot
of the wrap, and small, clOse-fittinS inside sleeves
4 soft sash Of green silk is worn at the waist
small capote bonnet to match the wrap is imported
with IT, long stylish carriage wrap Of pale rose
wood plush tho new purl shtoned brown shown
this season. is trimmed with borders OF Alaska sable
and passementerles Of silk TO match tho plush
The sleeves of this wrap the
sling style introduced few seasons ago,
which promises to be favore shape of sleeve for
largo drcssy wraps during the coming season. Satin
surah Innings in the palcst shade of the plush complete
tho garment An elegant wrap of black plush bro
caded in a huge pattern of black and white shells IS
trimmed with braided strands of black satin ribbon,
rosettcs OF satin, jet passementerles and full frl OF
marquise lace A dark green plush wrap In the dull
shade of color known Empire is fitted to the figure,
finished with wIdo cuffs, Tapped collar and side bands
of natural otter fur The back Of this garment Is
laid I'm peas to for the fllness of the tOurnurc,
and IS finished by two pasSemenerlc ornaments Of
green silk mixed with irdcscent beads Of cashmere
let in green tones While many of these long, taste
full garments are fitted in the back they were last
season. there is a tendency In many of them to a fun
Vatican back falling loosely from tho shoulders in
some cases and others held to the figure far as
the waist line and thence falling loose over the tour
nure A stylish wrap Of fancy drab and ecru cloth,
figured in a palm leaf arabesque Is made with long
pointed sleeve and Vatican drapery at the back This
vatican drapcry IS lined with changeable copper
and drab silk held IN plcats the form of a hood
far as the waist line, and flowing thence The front
of the wrap IS covered with silk laid in many fine
pleas and trimmed the pointed angel sleeve and
on the high collar with passementere in crystal and
gold in India coors
Kid gloves for autumn and winter are shown IN
neutral tan shades old mode coors. bright tans pale
silver grays, iron-grays, and clear medium grays
Dealers anticipate that tan shades will lose of
their popularity. Gloves for street wear shown
with plain ard with embroidered backs but the en-
brodcry Is now reduced to the medium width and IS
wrought either In black the color of the glove.
Dressed kid gloves are used only for the promenade,
and are imported almost exclusively In button style,
with four or six buttons Suede gloves street or
carriage wear imported also in four and six but
tons Mousquetaire gloves In Suede color for even ng
wear range from six button length 10 a glove long
enough TO reach 10 the shoulder. The principal col