The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1888-09-20
LEADING PERFUMES.
LIMITED NUMBER OF MATERIALS
USED IN THEIR PRODUCTION.

tiatefltts
The rose Is one Of the most vaiuabIe OF tee
limited series Of flowers available to the per-
fumer. When dried il is useful III sachets or
scented powders: distilled. it yields rose
water and tue well known otto. and sub
iected to enreurage il gives oil, pomade and
alcoholatc The variety chiefly used is the
hundred leaved Rosa Centifolia. and isSrown
for commercial purposes most extensively in
Turkey, India and i'll the south Of France.
The otto Of rose is light yellow or straw
colored liquid, possessing in high degree OF
concentration the characteristic odor Of the
flower, and diGusiveness and persistency
that render il Of great service to the per-
fumer.
OF the citrine family, consisting Of the
two great divisions of lemons and oranges,
the bitter or Seville orange is the most val
liable species 70 the perfumer Its flowers
yield the otto known as the oil of neoroll, or
neroly, and by enherrage a pomade and al
coholate OF delightful fragrance. Tho rind
Of the riIe fruit contains a useful oil, and
the small unripe berries and leaves also fur
nish one. Another orange Of importance is
that known as the Bergamia, from which the
oil Of bergamot is produced. The common
lemon gives an essence having both perfume
and flavor: while from the citron is taken
the truly delightful essence known as the
otto OF cedrat.
By enheurage the modest violet yields az
odor which is universally admired for its
delcacy and sweetness. The chief violet
beds are az Nice. where the plants are bedded
in the shade Of orange oracacia groves. APP
proximations Of the scent Of TIE violent are
found IN the acacia, tie orris aud IN myall-
wood, a native Of Australia. Tho acacia re-
ferred 70 Is a small tree or shrub which grows
only in southern ATTITUDES and the flowers,
which are yellow and about the size Of "A
large pea, are called cassie flowers. These
are treated by enfeurage. Cassie must not
be COMPOUNDED with cassis, which is the COM
mon cinnamon
The tuberose is q Dubious plant first no
ticed 10y old writers as the Indian hyaclnth.
The odor is obtained by enaeurage and is
not only a favorite in It's pure state, but en-
tiers into tie formation of the most recherche
bouquets France, Italy and Spain contain
the chief gardens OF the tuberose, although
there is no reason why in this industry, as in
so many others. California shOald not enter
the competing field
Tie ylang-yiang flower Of flowers is the
blossom of "a large tree native ia the Islands
Of the Iuc.a archipelago. It's native Iagal
name Is the lL-lang-lhlang the Malays call
it Kanonga. and 20 botausts 10 is known as
Uuona oiora,issma The flowers remind
D.
color is a greenlsh yellow, and they possess
an Od0r resembling a mixture " jasmine
and lilac SO powerfulthat itscents the air for
miles Tie ylang-yang was first discovered
by q chemis. 90 Manila in 1866 /. is n0w
largely manufactured there and az Sirga-
pore.
Lavender. rosemary, aud patcb0uly are all
herbs Tho TWO former are quite we'll known
ID this country, the last named is an Indian
plant resembling oar garden sage. To the
natives il is known as putchapai 9th leaves
and stem yielding an otto OF great strength
and very peculiar odor
OF the spice series cloves and cinnamon
are the only ones that are much used IN per-
fumery. and these are chiefly employed in
SOAPS. The Glove tree is largely cultivated
in the West Indies and the Maiacca Islands;
while the cinnamon is not the bark az com
mercc but comes from a smaller tree and has
n milder odor aud flavor, with faint touch
Of muskness. Cassia comes from China, the
true cinnamon FROM Ceylon.
Two odorous grasses, natives Of India, fur
nish ottos OF extensive usefulness. One IS
lemon grass, having a strong resemblance IN
odor 20 the lemon verbenl, and from 10
nearly all our extracts OF yerbena' and
"verbcna water are made The other otto
is citroneila, perfume which most persons
have made acquaintance with IN the 50 called
"honey soap
The wood Of the sandal tree native Of
the West Indies, gives a curious Odor, greatly
admired in Oriental countries and much vel
ued by Us II is both used in substance and
distilled for It's otto. Netlyert, or kus-kus. a
thread like Indian root, furnishes another
perfume Of the same class as sandal, but
sharper and more approaching floral doors.
10 is a strong aud durable od0r that gives us
characteristic TO the cashmere bouquet
soap. The otto OF vetivert is much higher in
cost than even that OF roses.
Bitter almonds, though containing no otto
in their natural state, yield one by the re-
action Of their constituents in the presence
Of water Thus the still furnishes US the
almond odor, which, while sickening in itself,
finds place IN minute quantities ia many Of
the finest floral compounds.
Vanilla s.,h capsule Of a beautiful creep
ing plant native in Mexico and South
America. Il is generally from Six to ten
inches in length about one-four.h OF IN
inch in diameter, cylindrical in shape, taper
Ing toward either end aud slightly hattcned.
Tns color IS dark brown. Tho interior con
tains a sort Of pulp filed with little shining
black seeds. Is aavor aud odor are both
familiar
TIE origin OK ar1bergris was long a mys-
terry, but lt is now known to be a diseased
secretion Of the spermaceti whale. 1t Is
found floating on the surface Of the sea and
has an ordor which is extremely unpleasant
when pure, but which gives mellowness and
permaneney 70 mixtures.
Ciyet is q dark brown, semi-huid secretion
obtained from the ciyet cat, native Of
Africa AID India 1t is found in an external
pouch or receptacle peculiar to this animal
It's properties are in general similar 10 am
bercris, but its odor harmOaizes more per-
fectly with floral compounds.
Musk is also secretion, and IS obtained
from the musk deer, pretty little animal
inhabiting the higher mountain ranges Of
Tonquin, China and Thiset The musk is