Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-05-05

SEEMS WINE the oruns are formed OF the flowers
IMPROVED SPRING AND SUMNER srprps
Tor serviceable wear are a point In the working
womans favor. Mohairs have lost their old hard
ness anu nave become soft and supple; liable to
spot and cookie" II exposed to weather but lovely
IA continuation with silk surah for vest or crepe de
oIaped lines, looks like 'wrinkled- milk and lends
iessai so easily 10 pretty and becoming touches.
me new silver and steel passementeries look
vel upon the pure shades Of gray In these fabrics;
put II these are too costly, folds OF surah or the
combination OF yellow or cream In crepe dc chine
alpaca or mohair Is the variety given to the shades
OF gray, pigeons wing, blue gray, ssMarseilles
S Siuemwhich Is very hght-gray blue, and the
.nese are woven, for combination, white tendrils
and twig-like borderings with little TUFTS ike
ac blossoms upon them; not laid upon the sur
ngures, woven into the ground work, and thus
forming more artistic and less conspicuous con-
are for panels vests, and mounting generally, and
they LIT the old alpaca quite out OF It's sadness
anddrearinsss into the light OF modern life.
one must always beware Tor service, however, OF
mixed material. That was the fault OF the old
popnns, and 1t Is not likely they have changed
their nature under the new name OF bengaline.
One fiber being different from another, they arr,
inherently acted upon by cleaning or exposure 70
moisture, and one part shrfnks away from the
other or loses Its nerve and suffers collapse.
The all-wOols, now graded In every variety OF
texture and produced In every delicate tint and
COlOI, as well as In Dlack ana white, are Always
ana must remain an invaluable resource for pretty,
useful and inexpensive costumes. In canvas, de-
laine, or "chae," As 1t is now called, the finer
nuns yelling, the selvedge finish has been i'm
proved in some Instances by adding narrow, SELF
colored stripes, which make an iuconspicuOuS b0r-
der and greatly facilitate the making-up process,
particularly the arrangement OF drapery.
These summer wOollens can be bought from 25
cents up TO 81 per yard. and with q narrow plait-
which look well upon any occasloh.and last more
than one season. In black and dark colors they
serve for every street wears In lighter tfnts for
fetes and garden parties, while In figures on
cream ground, front OF soft silk In delicate pink
or blue, transform the somewhat communicating
material into suitable tissue for tea-gown.
The finer and more costly woOilen intervals, such
as camels hair and cashmere, are most effectively
made up with watered SILK or MORE antique.
Much OF the silk Is not required, but little OF it
enriches and relieves the mOcotony OF plain wool.
Formerly the skirt was made OF the richer fabric.
six or velvet, as the case might be. and the over
dress of wool Now narrow plating upon the
edge OF the lining, panel vest, collar or revers,
and cuffs are all that Is required, though q wide
sash with long ends Is sometimes added or en-
ployed In place of the panel
The long lines retain their ascendancy. Draper
les are long, the funess at the back OF the skirt
TO the foot, where the plated edge shows, and no
more Very little rufiiing is used and that mainly
upon SOFT tinted silks, around the bottom OF which
may De massed In close group five or seven var
iously tinted or self-colOred pinked-out edges
forming a broad hower-like ruchlng, not too full
but overlaid like petals.
Cotton skirts are hemmed and tucked or trimmed
with Nat open work above the hem Upon soft
silks nbbon is often laid border or side trim-
ming, and lighter tissues are striped with ribbons
matching, or IN a delicate, contrasting color.
The surpice style is almost universal for thin
woods, cottonS and summer silks, the full bodice
open and crossed under a broad full sash. The
high cut upon the shoulders, the natural line OF
the waist are preserved, Notwithstanding all that
has been said In regard 10 shortening In accord
ance with the Josephine period or engJhening after
the laced and attenuated stomacher style 1t is the
great majority now, who. like the great commons
In England, hold the balance or power and
though IL allows the extreme left or the extreme
right to gyrate In different directions It does not
admit or any serious departures from the average
OF It's convictions and convenience This Is getting
TO be as true In fashion as politics, and IL shows
how little individuals and how much natural
evolution has to 90 with both.
There Is not apparently any change in the
length or cut OF the basque. 1t is still snort with
"habit" back and nigh straight collar, the diverg-
ence being all In the line OF the vest real or
Its character, whether full or plain |
us proportions, small and pointed, or entire
length and separate or made part OF the bodice |
The redingote dress is a distinctive feature OF
the spring styles, but 1t is always limited in its
applicability to materials and circumstances. II
requires rich, solid fabrics, rather tall figure and
be becoming. 1t should never be made In thin
tissues or common stuffs II looks well in striped
MORE and satin, in the figured mohars and plain
and striped bengalnes. II may also be made in
plain, handsome fabrics, enriched with palms or
long, ieaf-ike designs in passementerie. But the
red1ng0te being long and nat at the sides, care
must De taken to choose q material and design
that Will give 1t importance and character
JENNIE JUNE.