davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
WOMAN AND HER WAIST.
SHE CAN'T GET ALoNa WITHOUT CoR-
SETS, AND THEY MUST TE

-
TIE Evelutisn Of the Corset from stsys e
the Existine Costly A6hirs - seune thing
Like S1S,OOO.eO Spent Annually In Our
Country Ter Then-A Bride whe raid
g ior n rair-A Maa whs Wears Satin
Corsets or rale Dlue-He Had n Fair
Taken In n Quarter sf an Pc
cuiiar Aieasurcments-Buyin n Corset.
The vanity Of our grandmothers deposited
in the legacy OF their daughters q chrysalis OF
a corset called stays, consisting Of two thin,
stiff boards stitched between bands OF streng,
thick cloth. and held in place by q series Of
tapes: from this has 1uttered forth q dainty
Cirdlo OF delicatcly tinted satin, firm, yet elias
tic, curved into lines OF beauty. bordered with
o nun Of lace. embroidered and Tossed In
quaint design, and laced with a silken band.
In spite Of the hue and cry raised by the agi-
tators OF dress reform, tho continued condem-
nation pronounced by professors Of hygiene.
and the prophecies dire promulgated by doc
tors Of medicine. and endorsed by anatomical
~savsnts. concerning the wearing Of this much
abused article Of dress. there never was a time
when more money was. lavished on corsets
than now. not only on the ~fincness and deli
cacy Of the material used. but on tho shape
and 1T as well. Four or five dollars are spent
three are squandsred on tho extra thickness
and breadth of the whalebones used.
In consideration OF the $l5, 900. 900 spent an
nually BY the women Of the United States for
~corsets, manufacturers and Inventors have mt
In the market . bewildering array OF varied
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

aged very rapidly OF late, aud her slim and
handsome husband. who looked her age two
years ago. now seems like her son. OF the
tion. Of easy-eoing. Indifference and absolute
good nature. She has q careless. happy. Iowa
Bic sort OF an air that Is all tho moro q divert
ing thing to witness since It is apparently 30
utterly unlike tho woman. as she really is.
ane appoaranco oi Judic ana aranicr on one
Paris as a civil war would in the United States.
They have been rival Queens Of opera bouffe
in its allegiance to them. II occurred to an
enterpriIinE impresario to bring them both
Eden Theatre, and tho result has been Wildly
successful. The newspapers devoted columns
q day to the impending production. and In
ahead Of the other. the famous pair appeared
in this form.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
TEN JANUS WOMEN ABROAD
seAs AnI srAUrzru1. sexs coon.
AHubOME RAYE GhHTUa

q eia.ee Lar Randolph mursAm MA
AariaiEhee. Nssiis Fsrres, Sarah Her,-
harst,tre kesAai, Juaie, Qrsaier. Mr..
1ernse-nsere. aaa Phyiiis nreuxhten.
PARIsjeb. 27.-aossip about women runs
nfe In 9rope. Here are ton that 1 have seen
since I u homo:
NearlAll New Workers. who lived near Madi.
son soyre afew years ago remember tho most
beautil OF Leonard Jerome's daughters. She
was vhderfully fond Of horses. and when she
was ahild she rode back and forth In front of
the hion League Club-thsn on Madison
souse-on sshaggy little pony. Later she was
the hmiration Of the club rs a full grown.
straightforward. ltthe, and erect girl, with A
fonhess for society and tnilor-made gowns.
he father gave her the Union League club
hose one day for q dowry. and she married
Lid Randolph Churchill I remember seeing
hh the first time he came to New York. He
VS. then unknown to fame. and IA no lounCed
the doorway Of Mr.. Jerome's house one
fmmer morning. smoking cigarettes. he was
ne picture OF q brainless fop. He was small,
fattily atttred In lavender trousers, figured
and blue velvet smoking jacket, and
bis mild eye stared at New York through a
single glass. Tho hair was plastered down
over the forehead and the ,moustache curled.
But his looks boiled him. From being the fa-
vorite Joke OF Parliament, he has become one
OF tho foremost statesmen Of the empire. One
must be In England to appreciate the force OF
Lord Randolph Churchills power. He 10 a
mysterious force. too. for he Is as erratio as q
political maniac. His eminence IS a public
character is indubitable. II the Prince Of
Wales goes to France. the papers devote ten
lines to the event, but whom Lord Randolph
moves. columns q day are published
and the w.res buzz with the news
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Sarah Bernhardt is the most brutal murder
esson the stage to-day. The solemn lectures
sion" and tho stolidity of society acting" are
vain as far as the leading actress of the world
cordinG to Dslsarte.. She does it according to
hun nma nature: and !, her acting IN the IT torture
zied. violent. and brutal az anything Of For
rests when in bis most savage mood. The art
Of the famous Frenchwoman is lost sight Of as
When she stabs her tormentor with the vindic-
tive and nervous force Of a woman who is be.
s siae face asrs sad b %tfR a pss irisnt fn1 e TRs s1ssas,o OF
does not think Of Delsarte. 1t does not occur
to him TINT BeTnhardt is oyeracting. Only whom
breathing hard, that his. brow is wet. and he
tually seen a murder in real life:
York. after exhibiting $500 worth Of dresses:
the stage that I object to 1t. but also because it
is untrue to nature as well as art"
Indeed Pin not" said the BENZ Of world
wido celebrity proudly. "A woman may be
forced by circumstances into committing any
womanly way-as a beautiful panther does, for
instanseI1laietly gracefully. and softly: For
tain in my hand ! convey 10 you as powerful an
idea OF passion rs though l thrashed around
the room for an hour"
would feel that her tuition had been in vain.
The, violence is so great that the French act;
r ms The G iirsf n fsafsS 1 a lea 1aG t Piacs She \ hid stfr rue,
tured n blood vessel. 1t was not till I had seen
the play three times and learned that the voice
appreciated how consummate is her art and
how marveilously she calculates avery effect.
The picture, given here shows Rcrnhardt as she
discovers the dagger with Which she suhse-
queutly commits The murder. 1t Is the lull be-
fore the first great outburst OF passion.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

In the Los Angeles Times of recent date is
the following: "Boston's death loss from
pneumonia for the month OF January WAS 200.
This cause alone Is enough to create a longing
squable climate, where this terrible enemy
January last was l.O43. OF which 1872 were from
pneumonia, or 1917 per CENT, The return OF the
Los Angeles Board Of Health, published in an
other column OF the sans PAPER. shows the
number Of deaths in that city for February last
to have been 55, OF which II were from pneu-
monin, or 20 per cent. Boston's death rate for
the same month was S52. Of which 153 were
from pneumonia. or less than is per cont. Jam
uRry's Los Angeles report Is not, at hand. but
dreaded in New England. 1t would appear that
Boston's showing Is better than Los Angeles.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

HOW Il IaHTEsT Possible FIT m rcuREp.
nine. inches at the steels.. Then there Is the
evening corset, rather similar. in construction
to the riding corset. In that II H. very low In the
bust to admit Of the wearing Of deco!letS gowns,
but 1t Is larger on the hips and in tho lower
part of the waist in front. This corset IL
usually. plain white satin, and costs from 50 to
$40. There is. the dancing corset, selected by
many ladies' because OF Its GOODNESS and pli-
ability. made. Of strong linen, open net-like
lace, which. while 1t supports the waist with its
steels and few bones. yet Yields to every un-
and curve Of the body with deliRhtful
comfort and grace. The summer travelling
corset OF strong gray Irish linen, firm, but cool
and very elastic: are very popular with tourists
Corsets may. By tho destructive agents OF
mortality which they are represented to DO By
the rsformers. but their mortal potency is dis
Rulsed In truly pleasing form. and just as long
as woman's dress consists Of q cuirass OF silk
and whalebones for . waist, and . cage Of wire
and stra ps, over which is hung yards OF heavy
cloth and pounds Of beads and bulk for . skirt,
women will continue to wear corsets. because
they noed q firm support on which to attach
their combination OF discomfort called a gown:
and since corsets are SO universally worn, the
legion of men and women who spend their lives
devising Improvement In the fashion and Ut Of
these constantly worn articles OF dress. adding
to their. comfort. utility, elegance. and beauty.
should be Incorporated into a humane society,
and be catalogued at the head OF the list Of
those benevolent guilds who devote their lives
to the amelioration of their race.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Nellie FaEren. who is going to America next
season, with q big burlesque company, Ia By
lonE odds the funniest Of the British light opera
divinitdss. Her comedy talent is unSuestioned
pest, Connie Gilchrist, and Phyllis BrouEhton.
In that she is above oil u comedienne. Poor
passe Violet Cameron Is done for In London,
after. Many. OF the other public favorites show
the results o. age, or high living In their faces
or voices. but Nellie Farren Is az clipper, Jolly,
and siy at 40 as shs was twenty years ago. She
has the figure OF q school girl, the smile OF an
infant; the grin OF q street imp, and the fun OF u
rohckinG boy, In nothing is she SO irresistibly
c2mical as In her imitation Of cockney dialect.
Nearly all the prominent theatrical people are
There will be . notable invasion in the fall.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Miss PHYLLIS B%roughton mas risen from OBJ
security, and shown for the t%housandth time
how limit ass. are the possibilities OF y young
woman who Is good, nure. and womRnly even
though she earns her living Oh the Stage. Not
a breath of suspicion has ever furnished tho
name of the quiet little English woman who
from tho chorus in comic opera. and now
she reaps the harvest. She is to marry a man
who Is young. rich. and titled. From chorus
girl to countess ~ a jump o SURPRISING extent
In England. but though society Is shocked, tho
earl and prospective husband is content-and
he ought to be, too. for a good. pretty. and
earl in Christendom. II anybody doubts. It let
him go to America and learn what's what.
BLAEELY HAIL.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
LensAslo Tells Ell Bis S1sAtsH
From the 81 ful Globe

WINNIPEG. March 15.-Lord Lonsdals an
rived here to-day. or. route to the Arctic sons
Scottish ~socisty. Lonsdnle is very fond Of dis
cussing pngilistic Qusstions, being very famil-
lar with Sullivan. .Kilrain. and Mitchell. He
q the thrso, and believes he could thrash sai.
Ivan without great effort L9nsdals asserts
whip any pugiiist that ever stsppedi into a ring,
and expects that q match will be arranged II Il
gan DO fought In private. as the Londoner OBJ
ients to publicity. Lonsdale says he will 70
further north than any man has over been be-
fore. He has no idea Of how he will get there.
the far north. He remains here for one WeeE
before resuminR the journey to the pole.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Judic has wonderful eyes, but no figure.
Granier's eyes are SO small, that, they, look
like. dots from tho stalls. but. her figure
IS beautiful. Judic plays with exquisite
fnesse and Granier dances iike-Gran:
in the third act OF Nine. Angot" was specially
written for this production by the composer
Granier's career as n dancer. She comes in
dressed In a village maidSn's costume OF black
ana gold. Her dress falls to her knees. The
dance is a burlesnue OF the conventional effort
Of II premier, danseuse., At its termination
STRAIGHT from the hiSh waist, and he audience
suddenly discovers that she is clad from her
heels to an exalted. altitude entirely in black
tights. Granier's voice is better than Judic's.
too. but then the latter has something that
goes beyond all these and falls under the name
OF genius. Comparisons Of the two women are
inevitable. but one impression is sure to cling
to the visitors mind after seeing this perform
ance of Nine. Argot." and that Is that we may
see another Granier but we shall never see an
other Judic. This Is I'M essentially Gallo way
of getting out Of q dilemma, but then. you see,
I am In France.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

styles Of corsets. ranging In price from % cents
to as many dollars u pair. Indeed. n woman
pairs OF corsots for rs cents. while one OF u
Broadway, firms customers pays between two
In all the large esta blishments in the city the
Information ELECTED concerning tho average
price paid for corsets tends to prove that the
majority Of women nay from So to IS for this
one article of their attire. which is renewed
from two TO six times a year. according to their
relative am cunt OF superintendent flesh which
this cunning device is supposed to hold in
place. Fleshy women buy new corsets because
tho bones, and often even the sticks. are
broken: but thin women rarely wear II corset
out, but change on account of the Soiled con-
dition Of those they have worn some time.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
Costly Morphine Needles Used by Fhiia-
delphia Women.

The morphia habit among women is much
more common IN Philadelphia than many sup
pose. Eyeh ~ rho lHle severe weather women,
drug stores, and IN most cases the only medi-
cine they were after was morphia in its differ:
Indulgence Is by hypodermic injection, and
SsS.s e .h :u ai.iss: s.S s:sS are e. sN.S snd silver
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Pretty little Th6o. who was so much admired
women who regard champagne. pate, de fol 0ras.
and inertia with u friendly eye. II is a m ourn-
weight Is at times nm awful blight to a pretty
woman, The dalntiest. most gym m etricsl,
and de,icstS q all The fam0Sss . queens Of ossra
jsunty, graceful, quaint. nstty. blooming.
shspely, and sweet with dinPlsd shoulders
Theow was above all a womsn's pct. Her voice
had q baby cadence. and from her ~diminutivs
feot to her curly head shs WAS such u charming
series OF attractive cnryes and chubby dents
that her DIVA sex idoli2ed her.
rho first night Tint arrived In, Paris J saw
reference 10 Tl1O in Figaro. and alter dinner
! wen. 10 the Gaiety to soc her. H. was 4
melancholy surprise, An idol is de.hr1ned
was worshippsd only Tor her giriishness and
Ssauty. She iS stout. and her voice has become
s3nsssssi. Si tsssE y e s.S go sr-alsr s:s'aISS
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

These corsets are lined with. satscn. fitted
after the most approved nodels, construct
cd Of the beat wlulebopc, and vary in
price from SIS to slj. according to the
amount OF material used rnd costli-
ness OF the lace used In trimming. Voc be
unto the girl OF generous Girth when she buys q
satin corset, for not only must she pay for the
extra number and increased thickness OF the
bones used. but also for every inch of satin and
lace required to hide her %inhrmities,
Elaborate In design. exquisite in decoration,
complete and perfect In CONSTRUCTION. an inn
ported corset oyertops them all in price as wall
corset, cut after this model, whose chief pecu-
liarity Is D curved gore over the hips, IS must
be paid, while $25 must be given in EXCHANGE
for Il pale pink noir6 waist, lined with white
silk, cinbeliished with white embroidery and
stitching, ald tipped with IL iHco iurbetow,
consisting oil u depending tOunce, shirred on
three narrow pink ribbons, tied in u fancy Knot
In front, and rom which an upright iriii OF the
same soft lace enc!rgles the wearar's bust. The
whole arrangement looks like an evening waist.
and, indeed, might be- worn as such with q
strap OF guazo over the shoulder and a bou-
quct in front. Corssts of this make are also
seen in golden brown, with black lace decora-
tion, and IN biack Inoire with heavy .Euipure
made Of white, moirt, with lace like frost and
ribbons o. wHitA
Al another store was found nm Interesting
array oil cOTsetH n%cculilr 10 cNIIalI needs,
though. not so expensive in price. "First Of
all" said the Guick young woplAn in charge,
we nave a brides corset which Ia OF two
kinds, y plain white satin and embroidered
eoutlle. The former comes att8, but 10 usual
~ txteAxAAA uiAh laaA - EaAtck tina sntt tokA.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

At n well-known corset place IN Broadway
one may see a case OF custom-made corsets
whose cheapest variety spoils $40. and whose
most artistic combinations Of embroidered
satin and lace leaves little surplus from $50.
Little girls of ! years old arc brought there to
DO fitted to children's %corsots, and sometimes
little boys are submitted to the inGignity OF
times in a very original and energetic manner.
However, when once fitted, children are AS a
waists, which supports their clothing so per-
fectly. Tho peculiar philosophy OF these Gus
tom-made corsetS consists in fitting tho corset
ladies claim that they can wear a much tighter
custom-maie corset than regularly. nIanufac-
tqnred. with lar less discomfort, which is. as
Of woman's ambition. 1t il something OF
All undertaking to be fitted to q corset,
as the operation Is slow and Somewhat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

cost to SO or Ga. The latter urually Is left
unadorned, for, ~ sold, the entire bust is one
R, ss q open work smbESiderTa and there e
riding. corset. q natty littlo affair OF black satin,
Tossed and laced with crimson, very low. In the
bust and extremity short on the hips, indeed q
ence would be scarcely noticeable except
ut the bottom of the waist. rs IL Increases
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
MRS. kendall

Mrs. Kendal's nams ia familiar to Ameri-
csns. She is monstrously clever and amazing
x h.ap % putlie h me1, 'n Hen m9s ir pGrns.i is ss saId s0 to
regard Mrs. Kendall with so much GOODNESS
that he will not play in the snme theatre with
tion OF tho extraordinary lack OF tact which
TIE foremost actress OF England exhibits at
Mrs. Kendnl Finished q long speech on
morality by announcing to a crowded audience:
Tho fact IL, al actresses are immoral. i un-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25
.ADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL.

IAD1 HANDVLFh CHUHCH1LI.
Tho rise OF Lady Randolph Churchill has been
as rapid socially as her lords has been politi-
oally. Last week tho daughter OF an old-time
Wall street broker dined with the Gear of Rus
sia and the Emperor Of Germany on terms Of
close personal friendship. and when she came
hero she was the talk Of Paris for two days.
through Hyde Park. and tho attention she ex-
cited was second only to the homage paid to
that popular Idol, the Princess of Wales.
Lady Randolph Churchill is the friend Of SOW
oret2ne, tho ohum of potentates, an acknowl-
edged beauty, and without doubt the most
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Mrs. Bernard Bcere does not wear corsets.
This fact Is Of itself enough to mako any
woman, famous in England, where the, passion;
act ike everybody else. The person who goes
out OF the beaten course is either condemned
as n crank or exalted as n genius. It's pure
chance. Mrs. Bernard Beere ESCAPED the sus-
picion 0. insanity and established a reputation
for sinuosity Of figure and soul" IN art. Sarah
Bernharit is her ido! and goddeTs, Where
casionatly she goes the great French woman
one bettor, as in tho matter OF names. for in
stance. She is tall. wavy. brilliant. versatile,
am ambitious. and she is tho best woman in
~notional roles as Lena Despard on the
EpRu II stage to-day,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

Englishmen rave about Mrs. Marini., She is
endless cultural and significant talk in clubs
and smoking rooms. To the British eye she is
not only beautiful. but far more important
night she entered a box at tho Gaiety. In Lon
don, and before she had been in the theatre a
nrst time ! had seen her. She Is striktngly
IKE tho Princess Of Wales in carriage and out
nsci,ed and shrimpy LOOKING. and that's ali. I
don't know exactly what shrimpy means. but 1t
gems to iibe In with tho appearance OF Mrs.
mouth. the charm .is gone. for. she drops her
his" In spch bewildrring profusion that they
rattle on tho floor He the roll OF a thousand
drums in the nave OF a moorlit cathedral. she
was Q aInbermn until she became a society
E!!rt: and married u NO blom same being
Cir Uplap Sing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

hesitatingly announce that ] am the only pure
woman on he hng'i5h FtIaGe", OF course ns .nls
10 caro- pprticulnrly for llal bort Of thing. She
calls herhuaband While" in public. and Is tho
James'sT Theatre.
But, though this 70 all well enough known,
memory OF Al away. She played in Scrap OF
Pansskska tsaE Ina aaa liar IN LoadoA 70 .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

This remarkable bit Of journalistic tom
fF4i9lsI5ly t gss sr Kept ri NJ with dsn surSTTbS . s sNsta snid
at a scathinR premium. The theatre was
jammed and the excitement OF the audi
ence was beyond belief. Tho production
marks. the limit Of operate possibilities.
Everything from the ballet to the soldiers gal
Looping around on horseback on the stage. was
notable. while the two women shared the hon.
ors equally.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

pair. Those corsets
come in delicnte
shades o! blue and
pink as well MS white,
deliberately Tossed
with white silk. edged
with fine embroidery
or lace. md laced
with broad silk tics.
Tho same corset In q
soft shade Of ecru.
Tossed and laced
with scarlet silk, Is a
thing OF y,
while for winter and
mourninE wear many
women select ~ black
corset with white In
ing and stitching.
Next in favor as
well as value is a
syi N IN otrical ar
rangemcnt of satin
in all the delicats
shades. ms well ~
black. edged with u
fold OF plush about
tho Eips and finished
with u 'rili OF delicate
- .a,r H. l,,-t
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

urs and al ordinary bust.
In other Institutions of this kind similar re-
ports arc given OF the increased attention wo-
men pay to every little detail 10 the ft Of their
y: Eowtns iat:rsst sftsn y ths dsys!Ssmsnt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1888-03-25

came vet the third lime and tried 1t once more,
and then departed, apparently satisfied with
the dainty affair. In about week he appeared
again. and thought; on wearing. the waist
seemed n little TOO large. and he. wanted 1t
taken In one-iourih Of an inch under the arm.
We seldom have any call Tor mems corsets,
though | am told they are worn considerably.
and we are very glad. A tussy woman is a trial.
but q fusSy man il a perfect nuisance.
"pne little popularity of women with regard
to their corsots is worthy Of mention. and that
is they will never admit that they arc the least
bit tight. Though they hang themselves up
on a horizontal. bar by their hands while the
strings are tiGhtened. they will urge that they
never mot but one lady who would honestly
confess that her clothes were too tight and I'M
comfortable. and that lady is the one beautiful
exception, that proves tho truth OF my theory"
II would be divulging secrets OF state to pic
ture in vivid colors the scenes OF the corset
tions than that presented by n pretty woman
trying to lace herself into u tinted corset two
sizes too small for her. The avidity with which
she threads the soft strings. tho pretty eager
ness with which she adjusts the refractory
clasps, the peculiar twist OF tho dainty sillen
tightens the laces, and her constantly chang
ing attitudes as she revoivss slowly before her
mirror are all very picturesque.
On one counter OF n wall-knOwn store cor
sets can he bought all the way from 95 cents to
s25 a pair. in the regular stock. while tho
sometimes made 70 order. makes them, even
moro expensive. The most striking popularity
OF these goods is the enormous prices. paid for
O peculiar cut or make. for to the uninitiated 1t
is incomprehensiblo how n plain white coutille
corset should be more expensive than q dainty
combination OF tinted sateen and silk. elabor-
ate In design and exquisite in finish. The aver
lga price paid by women at this counter IL 81 q