Wichita eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1886-1890, 1888-10-04
LEADING PERFUMES.
LIMITED NUMBER OF MATERIALS
USED IN THEIR PRODUCTION.

1t Il to the CornPounder's Skill That We
Are Indebted for the Majority os Cur
Delicious Popular scents-A List Of
Materials.
The rose is one Of the most vs4uable OF tee
limited series OF flowers available 20 the per-
fumer. When dried it is useful IN sachets or
scented powders; distilled, it yields rose
water and the well known otto, and sub
jected to enfeurage it gives oil, ponade and
elcoholate. The variety chiefly used is the
hundred leaved Rosa Centifolia, and Is grown
for commercial purposes most extensively in
Turkey, India and in the south Of France.
The otto Of rose is light yellow or straw
colored liquid, possessing IN a high degree Of
concentration the characteristic odor of the
flower, and a difusiveness and Eersistency
that render it OF great service 20 the per
fumer
OF the citrine family, consisting of the
two great divisions Of lemons and oranges,
the bitter or Seville orange is the most val
liable species to the perfumer. Its flowers
yield the otto known as the oil Of neoroI, or
neroly, and by enfeurage a pomade and al
coholate Of delightful fragrance. The rind
Of the ripe fruit contains a useful oil, and
the small Unripe berries and leaves also fur
nish one Another orange Of Importance is
that known as the Berganlia, from which the
oil OF bergamOt is produced. The common
lemon gives an essence having both perfume
and flavor; while from the citron is taken
the truly delightful essence known as the
otto Of ced-at
By erfeurage the modest violet yields an
odOr which IS universally admired for its
delicacy and sweetness The chief violet
beds are at Nice, where the plants are hedded
In the shade Of orange or acacia groves. Ap-
organizations Of the scent of the violent are
found in the acacia, the orris and in uyall-
wood, native Of Australia The acacia re-
feTred TO is a small tree or shrub which grows
only in southern latitudes, and the flowers,
which are yellow and about the size Of a
large pea, are called cassie flowers. These
are treated by enfleurage. Cassie must not
be COMPOUNDED with cassia, which is the COM
mon cinnamon
The tuberose is dubious plant, first no
ticed by old writers as the Indian hyacinth
The odor is obtained BY enfeurage and is
rot only favorite in its pure state, but en-
tiers into the formation Of the most recherche
bouquets. France, Italy and Spain contain
the chief gardens OF the tuberose, although
there is no reason why in this industry, as in
50 many others, California should not enter
the competing field.
The ylang-ylang flower OF fowers) Is tho
blossom Of large tree native In the islands
Of the India archipelago. Its native Tagal
name is the ih-lang-ihlang, the Malays call
it karonga, and to botanists it is known as
Cnona odoratissima. The flowers remind
one somewhat Of the locust blossom. Their
color IS a greenish yellow, and they possess
an odor resembling q mixture Of jasmine
and Lilac, 50 powerful that il scents the air for
miles, The ylang-y lang was first discovered
By chemist at Manila in 1867. 1t is now
largely manufactured there and at Singa-
pore.
Lavender, rosemary and patchouly are all
herbs The two former are quite well known
in this country; the last named is an Indian
plant resembling our garden sage. To the
natives 1t is known as putchapat, both leaves
and stem yielding al otto OF great strength
and very peculiar odor.
OF the spice series cloves and cinnamon
are the only ones that are much used III per-
funery, and these are chiefly employed in
soaps The Glove tree is largely cultivated
In the II est Indies and the Malacca Islands;
while the cinnamon is not the bark of com
merce, but comes from a smaller tree and has I.
a u1jlder odor and favor, with faint touch .
pf muskiness. CaSsia comes from China, the .
true cinnamon from Ceylon-
Two ocoroUs grasses, natives Of India, fur
aisa ottos OF extensive usefulness. One is .
lemon grass, having 4 strong resemblance in f
door 20 the lemon verbena, and from it .
nearly all our EXTRACTS of verbenau and 4
is citroneIla, perfume which most persons
have made acquaintance with IN the 50 called
"hoDey soap
The wood Of the sandal tree, native of
Abe Wess Indies, gives curious odor. greatly
admired IN Oriental countries and much val
oed by Us II Is both used in substance and
distilled for its otto. Vetivert, or kus-kus,
thread Ike Indian root, furnishes another
perfume of tie same class as sandal, but
sharper and more approaching floral odors
It is strong and durable edor that gives its
characteristic 10 the cashmere bouquet
Soap The otto Of verivert is much higher IN
cost than even that OF roses.
Bitter almonds, though containing no otto
IN theiS natural state, yield one by the re-
action Of their constituents in the presepce
Of water. Thus tbs still furnishes US the
finds place IN minute euautit.es IL many OF
the hr>ssst horal compounds.
Vanilla Is tee capsule OF q beautiful creep
ing plant native IN Mexico AID South
America Il IS generally from SIX to ten
inches n length, about ore-foureh CT an
inca IL diameter, cylindrical in shane, taoar-
Ing toward either end and slightly a2taened-
The color is dark brown The interior con-
taius sort OF pulp filed with little shining
black seeds It's favor and oder are both
familiar
The origin Of anbeg-is was long a uovs-
terry, but Il Is row known to be disease, !
of the Sperm.csti whale L is
found floating On the surface q the sea ard
hss an ordor which is extremely unpleasant /
whsa pure, bat which gives uasllowoess and
peruareRey TO mixtures
Civss Is dark brown, seni41cid secretion
obtained from the civet cat, g native OF
Africa sod I1dis- Il is found in sn external
pouch or receptacle peculiar TO this animal
It's properties are n general similar 70 an
oerSrts. bot is odor kErno1izes Mora Per
fecSy with ford cokrpoun6A
AoSS Is also secretion. and IS ohta;asd