The weekly messenger. [volume] (St. Martinsville [i.e. St. Martinville] La.) 1886-1948, 1888-09-22
MAKING STRAW HATS
An Industry that has Attained
Immense Proportions.
Crude Foreign Processes and
Skilful American Methods.

not peculiarly American, says the New
York Commercial Advertiser, has at
tanned immense proportions in this
country. Over in Brooklyn, in Sc me of
the quiet streets between the city hall
district and Broadway, are number of
give employment to more than 200
hands, besides lot of the most ingen-
ious and skIlfully devised machinery.
Most of this machinery is of American
invention. With it ten times more
work can be turned out by the skilled
operative than by the old hand process,
and yet better wages made at less
labor.
The straw hat of civilization is nearly
6 century old, and its manufacture was
not begun in Brooklyn to any extent
until about eleven years ago. The raw
material is all imported, and, in fact,
reaches the manufacturer here in con-
sidcrably advanced stage of prepar alton.
1t comes from China, Japan and South
ern Europe chiefly. Years ago, when
straw goods brought higher price,,
braids woven with Tuscan straw and
that from Bohemia and Switzerland.
were exclusively used, but they arc now
employed only for the finest grades.
The cheaper qualities for the masses,
such as the 'Mackinaws," are almost
entirely made with the straw braid I'M
ported from China. This was found to
be less expensive than any other, be-
cause the cost of living among tho pro-
duccrs amounts to almost nothing. The
Lcghorn hat is made entirely in Italy,
and only the finishing is done in this
country. Chip and Panama hats,
although sod under the general de-
nomination Of straws, are made in
fact from entirely different ma
terial. The chip is so called because
made from the splists ofcth, Lombardy
poplar, out Of which the sap has been
dried by burial in the ground for three
years---a prccaution taken to prevent it
from turning red which happens when
dried in the air. The Panama is
made from the immature leaves of a
palm tree indigenous to South America.
The district of China whers straw
braid is made lies in the region OF
Canton and many millions of people are
employed in its production. Living
principally on fruits, which the soil of
that country naturally yields, and with
no inclination to do more profitable
work, it is often the only occupation
that all the mem bers of the family en-
gage in. The average wages earned
are penny day. When the species
OF grass or wheat used for making the
straw has attained its full height, and
before it is quite ripe, it is cut down,
left on the ground and allowed to
bleach In the sun. This process
being completed, the stalks are
bound in sheaves about a foot in cir
cumference and then drawn out as
wanted. After scverinS them at the
joints into strips four or five inches ia
length. they arc put into a kind Of a
sieve and sorted in equal siz;s Those
a: the top being finer have a greater
value than the lower or coar;er ores.
These pieces are il tura separated a1d
f1nI ipta h,n Of
Those OF good color arc laid aside Tor
bleaching, while those spotted or dis
oolored are dyed and used with the
blcachcd to make vlricgated braids.
The solid coiors arc all dyed in America
TO suit the leading fashion. The bleach
ing is done by inclosing The stalks in a
box with burning birthstone. The
plating, next in order, is done mostly
by women aud girls, while the straw is
In damp state, and after the braids arc
pressed fat they are put in rolls of 60
yards, packed in bales and ready for ex-
portation. Encouraged 10y their gov
eminent. the japanese, with their char
acteristic energy, hlv, recently begun
this industry.
When the rolls reach the. manufac-
turer in this couatry. the Lraiis arc
slightly moistcaed and thea sewn to-
gether, beginning at the crown and
working round until the whole is fin
ishcd. On the top floor of the straw
wo-E= L. ronu4 who 70