The Ottawa free trader. [volume] (Ottawa, Ill.) 1843-1916, 1888-04-14

We knew that Slmla Is the summer capital
of India, and that for about half Of the year
1t is the residence of the viceroy and the
| chief officers of the government, when the
intense heat makes Calcutta uncomfortable.
| Inquiries developed the fact that it is over
| 1000 feet above the sea level, on narrow
spur of the Himalayas, and about 100 miles
| from the nearest railway station. Mysteri-
Gus hints were also thrown out about new
sensation to be experienced in ride for
more than half the distance in vehicle
called tonga, which our informant declared
to he unlike anything in heaven, on earth or
under it.
One pleasant morning. therefore, we de-
seconded from the cars at the fine station of
Umballa Cantonment. A cantonment, by
the way, is that portion of town where the
Europeans make their homes. It's generally
well laid out with broad and shady streets
and the houses are large and roomy, and
surrounded with pretty gardens 1t offers
great contrast TO the native part of the town
where the houses are closely huddled together,
and the streets often too narrow to admit n
carriage.
Although it was the middle of january,
the air was soft and balmy, and the thick
foliage of the trees and the flowers blooming
on every side reminded me of n day in the
spring at home. We proceeded to the post
office and arranged for our conveyance-for
the road to Simla is operated by the govern
ment-and we were soon on our way
We made this first days journey in a
gharry, the ordinary carriage of the coun-
try, two seated vehicle which will carry
four persons with reasonable comfort Our
horses were changed frequently. and we
rolled along at good pace, The road was
excellent as all Indian roads are, but the
country was fiat and totally undressing
In fact, except in the mountain regions. the
scenery of India is as monotonous as the
southern part of New Jersey The only
event Of interest which occurred was the
crossing Of river bed which was full mile
wide, though only two or three trivial
streams, scarcely deep enough to cover the
hubs of our carriage, meandered through it.
They told us that in the wet season this be
comes for days an impossible torrent.
! About o'clock we arrived at Kalka, {.
small village about forty miles from UNI
balla, and at the foot of the mountain. We
were to spend the night there, so we secured
such accommodations as the village hotel
could boast of, started out for long walk,
supper which was ready for us.
These Indian hotels in the smaller places
are a curiosity from an American standpoint
You engage room and are shown to it by
three or four grinning servants. You find a
bedstead, an exceedingly thin and hard
mattress, one chair, probably small table,
and possibly something which ia supposed to
he a mirror. II you are partial TO sheets and
4
bring them with you, for though you may
sometimes get them in the hotel for an extra
consideration, it is by no means certain. On
the other hand, the supply OF food is liberal
and generally of fair quality. Two things,
rice cooked as no American knows how to
cook it, and fresh eggs, are always to he OBJ
tanned.
We arranged to start the next morning at
O'Clock, and at that hour our tonga made
its appearance. This original vehicle has
two wheels of about three feet in diameter,
over the axle of which is placed the box with
two seats hack TO back, and a low footboard
before and behind, which is about eight
inches from the ground. An Irish jaunting
car turned sideways and cut down to about
half its height would give toerable idea of
it, Each seat will accommodate two per-
sons. A light framework supports canvas
covering, which shelters the passengers from
the sun.
We took our seats, the driver cracked his
whip, and away we started in fine style The
ascent begins Immediately, and with the ex
ception of about two miles, where, in passing
round q ravine, the road desCends somewhat,
it continues all the way to Simla, which is
fifty-five miles from Kalka. The ascent is
very gradual, however, and MS the horses
were changed at intervals OF about four
miles, they were never exhausted, and our
driver kept them steadily upon run, so that
we travelled about nine miles an hour There