Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1888-03-03
SAN LUIS PoTaSI.
SOME STRANGE SIGHTS IN A
QUEER COUNTRY.
Fourth Of JuIy-The San
Pedro Gold.
Especial Correspondence of the RrcoRD-Usros.l

Especial Correspondence of the RECORD UNION ]
February II, 1888.
The site of San Luis being so much
preferable to that of the City of Mexico,
there are many who believe it will eventu-
ally surpass the latter in size and COM
mercial consequence. Already it has be-
come an important railway center; for not
only does the National, coming down from
the north, connect it with Monterey, La
redo and the United States, and, passing
through, carries its trade TO Mexico and
the far South, but branch of the Central,
leaving the trunk line at Leon, connects it
directly with the Gulf ports and the COM
mefce Of the world
To the tourist San Luis is particularly
interesting, as being a representative me-
tropolis of Southern Mexico. 1t rambles
over an immense area, and the houses
unlike those in many parts Of the country
- are mostlyof two stories, the lower floors
being generally used for shops and stables,
the people living above. Lying at an
elevation of over G,000 feet, and surrounded
on all sides by the lofty Sierras, the climate
is the most delightful that can be i'm
agined, seldom falling below the freezing
point or rising above $50.
There are half dozen good hotels in
the town, of which perhaps the best are
the Del Progreso and the San Fernando.
There are electric lights and horse-car
line, and telephones in general use. Not
long ago an American capitalist purchased
a beautiful site fronting the Alameda, and
purposes building thereon a first-class
hotel, a la Americana.
To my mind the greatest attraction
hereabout is the famous baths of San Jose,
said to be the finest in Mexica. They are
situated in the Gale de Rayon, two blocks
south of the Postofice; the charge, includ-
ing every modern appliance and the best
OF attention, is from three to four reales.
In the middle of the Plaza Mayor, fac
ing the great cathedral is fine statue of
Padre Hidalgo, the work of native artist.
Opposite the cathedral is an English bank
house - Messrs. Pitman & Co. which
Americans find extremely convenient.
Besides the sights enumerated in pre-
vious letter, the tourist should not neg
lect to visit the Mint, the "Palacio," the
City Hall, the churches of FL Rosario, Los
Remedies, and dozen more, whose names
/ have forgotten.
The citizens of San Luis are less reserved
toward foreigners than are many Mexicans,
and though their homes are by no means
open Unfortunately, to the stranger,
they are not entirely inaccessible. OF
course there is the inevitable casino of all
southern cities, wherein the "gilded
youth " and middle-aged stability of the
vicinage give frequent balls; and it is easy
for the solourner to get himself invited,
through some banker or merchant.
But the great glory of San Luis is its
incompatible music. There is large
garrison here, and among its various regi-
ments of cavalry and infantry are several
superb bands of thoroughly trained musi-
clans. Among the skilled leaders are n
number of Germans, hence the finest Sc
lections from Mozart, Beethoven and other
masters are often sandwiched between
giddy Spanish waltzes and the airy moth
ings of French and Italian operas
As the weather seldom interferes with
outdoor enjoyment, nearly every night of
the Soto say nothing of Sunday morn
ings and Sunday afternoons-the broad
pavements and pink-plastered benches of
the plazas are filled with happy people,
listening TO the music and diverting them
selves after the Southern fashion. 1t is A
custom to be heartily commended in any
country-this gathering together of every
shade and strata of life; the gay and the
sorrowful, the rich and the poor, careless
children and toil-worn adults, under the
cooling shadows among the flowers.
Every soul, of whatever condition, must
he made better and happier by good music
that solace for the sorrowful inspiration
for the discouraged, incentive to worthier
purpose for the erring and zest-giver to the
Joys the joyful. Like the army on the eve
of battle, when somebody sang of annie
Laurie" and every bronzed soldier of
whatever nationality substituted his own
sweetheart for the Scottish lassie. so the
German wanderer listening to familiar
strains in this far-away country, looks up
through the orange-boughs to the stars he
knew in childhood, and dreams of Father
land; the Italian stranger sees his own
sunny home in tender memory: and even
the lrishman forgets his customary Joke
and gives silent thought to mother and
the Emerald Isle.
We happened to be in San Luis on the
9th of February, which is the Mexican
Fourth of July-for upon that day is cele-
brated the proclaiming of their present
Liberal Constitution. This year was the
thirty-tirst anniversary, and all was life
and activity. The whole city was in holi-
day attire, stores closed and business s1s-
pended for the day. The Plaza de Armas,
always beautiful, was doubly so ON that
festive occasion, being decorated in every
part with lanterns and electric lights, and
feStooned with the long Spanish moss that
grows so abundantly in southern chimes
Like the Alameda, this plaza is arranged
with walks, hower-beds and fountains
There are orange trees, presenting the
constant phenomenon of buds, fruits and
flowers on the same stem; tall banana
plants, feathery palms and rareSt fruits
and flowers In greatest profusion, most of
them growing in irregularly- made garden
plots. Everything has been done with
care and congruity, and being beautifully
taken care of, it brightens all the sombre
surroundings.
Several bands were playing, and every
body was on the promenade. The Palacio
Municipal, on the west-an immense
brown-painted, two-storied structure that
occupies an entire square-was tastefullv
decorated with flags, and on its front a
great number of small lanterns were ar
ranged so that their twinkling lights, like
stars, spelled the notices "Viva Mexico
and " Constitution de 81"
The enormous cathedral on the opposite
side was Illuminated for hours with col
ored tires-and so wierd did it look that
one could easily fancy the witches that are
said TO have once bewitched its old cracked
bell
The famous silver mines of San Pedro
de Potosi are in cerro (hilD within sight
OF the city. Once these mines produced
enormously, and from them was obtained
the largest piece of gold ever found in
America ltwas sent to the King of Spain,
who in return gave the great clock in the
Cathedral.
L think it was in 1920 that the first
Spanish settlers had their attention at
tracted TO this mineral district. which
fifteen years later, set the world agog. The
royalties alone from the San Pedro gold
contributed fabulous wealth to Spain in
the course of hundred years. In l6OS a
series of landslips checked the mines and
finally closed them-but not before so much
wealth had haa, ,,L,.:I u.