Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-12-22
THE CHANGING FASHIONS.

Lucy H Hooper's Paris Letter to Philadelphia Press
Just now fashion seems to be INDUCING
in one OF her transitory spasms of common
sense. Dresses are made Of appropriate ma
terials for each of the occasions on which
they are to be worn. and are no longer over
loaded with trimmings. One can walk COM
fortably in fashionable shoes and draw ones
breath easily in n fashionable corsage. 1t ia
possible to sit down gracefully and to move
easily in the latest style of walking costume.
Bonnets and hats may be worn large or small,
as suits the taste or the features of the pur-
chaser. The hair is dressed simply, and in a
way to show off the shape of the head and the
gloss and hue of the tresses. Long cloals pro-
tect toilettes on all outdoor expeditions, and
dainty little wraps show off the beauties of ele-
CANT dresses in carriages or at receptions
One of the most universally adopted innova-
tons is that of the colored stockings. In
olden times the leader of fashion differed from
her cook in that portion of her attire only SO
far as the delicate tineness of her Balbriggan
or Isle thread hose was concerned Every
body wore white stockings. 1t was not con-
sidered cleanly to wear black silk ones even.
and that point was conceded with difficulty to
ladies in mourning. Now the white stocking
has been definitely relegated to the lower
classes, and every lady of fashion orders hose
to wear with each toilette that she possesses.
It Is no uncommon process to have stockings
dyed to match precisely either the dress with
which they are to be worn or its trimmings.
As universal and as Nidely adopted has been
the change in the style of gloves. Some years
ago four-button gloves in glace kid were held
to be extremely stylish. But for nearly ten
years past the long glove in undressed kid has
been usually adopted. This fashion was intro
duced by Nine. Sarah Bernhard, who was the
first who ordered gloves Of thirty-button
length in undressed kid, to conceal the thin
ness Of her arms. Also to that lady do we owe
the introduction Of empire dresses and direc-
toire sashes, and the revival Of the long boa,
dear to the hearts of our grandmothers. She
has set the fashion for Theodore hair-pins and
Tosca hats, and has, in fact, welded an infu-
ence over the world Of dress beyond that exer-
cised by any other woman in the world since
the days Of the Empress Eugene.
Who sets the fashions? is . question often
asked and impossible to answer. mere moth
ing may give vogue to an article or . style, and
again . reigning influence In the world Of dress
may be unable to Get fashion. Thus, during
the palmy days Of the empire, the nlanufaetur-
ers OF Lyons once presented . petition to the
Empress Eugenie begging her 70 bring into
wear once more the rich brocades that were
the most costly and splendid productions
Of their looms. She did her best She had
number Of dress patterns Of these supurb
silks manufactured sxprsssly for her,
and she wore toilettes composed Of them on
various grand oocasiona But fashion was for
once rsbellious TO her queen and refused TO
enort and several Of the dfeB patterns that
wsse ordered BY her were never made up.
ehs presented one Of them sftsr the death q
the prince imperial 70 tie Princess Mafhilds,
and Il formed the court train worn By thst
Ady q Ne rscsnt n1xiass 81 Princess LstttiA