The morning news., 1888-12-01
TN THE VAN OF WINTER.
>,ovrMBER IN THE FASHIONABLE
AND SOCIETY WORLD.

rralterable Laws of Dress-Husband
Hunting and the Problems of Matri-
-,onv-The Unorthodox Perdita-The
modified Costume of the cat Home"
-New Dispensations in Woolens-
Noteworthy Afternoon Costumes
First Nights and Fitting Toilets-The
Return of the Bonapartes in Dress
New Departure in Fashion-Fan-
c,es in Feathers, Furs and Fans.
New York, Nov. 30.-Fashion seems to
offer much greater variety to the individual
-,,onan than it really does. "Oh! any
ching but white tulle," said a queenly young
dabntante the other day to her elder sister,
as they were discussing the important ques-
t,on of her looming out" costume ''All
iris wear white tulle, and the sweet SIM
nIicity style does not suit me at ALL" "Still,
7 would wear it, if 1 were you," remarked
bar experienced sister. white tulle is be-
coming to every one, and the apparent
simplicity of it is only permitted to youth.
After one or two seasons it looks like an
sfectation sColors, or the addition Of costly
trimming or ornaments will age you, and
tba chance for that will come fast enough.
Re- wise and do not anticipate events"
This restriction to what is suitable to a
certain age, to certain positions and cir
srmstances, is as obligatory in society
Troner. as ancient obedience to the laws of
tha Medes and Persians. Anything is for
given a man or woman in society except
Ignorance or defiance of its understood but
unwritten laws; for this is primd .fdcie
evidence they do not belong where they are,
that they are living under false pretences,
and are subject to court of private IL
ouiry. which is the social function of what
we call gossip.
The girl who has been out two seasons
proclaims the fact by wearing colors, by
enriching her gowns, by venturing ON more
elaborate models and combinations, and
the occasional display of feathers and jew
elrv. She has not yet got SO far as lace
fronts to her dresses, trains and brocades /;
these are reserved for after marriage and
the assumption of matronly airs, but, ex-
cepting as bride, her right to all white,
pire and simple, is past, and her white at
tire must hereafter be of such material as
will differentiate her from the rosebud"
fraternity.
In all this we follow strict copy from Or
thodox STYLES abroad. There was time
when the young daughters of men who had
become rich wore all the fine clothes, the
laces and iewelry, the velvet and feathers
of the family. The ''mother" did not care
She had lived her life Of hard work and
care; she wanted her daughters to be
"ladies," and that meant that they were to
be idle and wear silk every day. We have
outgrown that. School girls no longer wear
diamonds and plain wool or cotton, well
made. are more ''lady-like" than silk, when
time and place demand them.
But we still follow lead which does not
represent our habits, or ideas or our tastes,
and therefore, for us, lacks motive and con-
gruity. Perhaps it is necessary for edu-
cational development, in dress as in other
things, that we should have practical ex-
perience of what has been arrived at else
where before we can strike out in any
original ways at home But, after all, this
is the necessity of mediocrity: of talent, not
genius; and we cannot lay claim to any
genius for dress until we cease to
be an echo and are capable of
articulating distinct sound of our
own. This note ought to be struck by
the modern girl when she enters society.
She is free, she is new type, she belongs
to a new order, and her dress ought to
express it. Instead of that, it is conven-
tional to the last degree; it puts her in
chains it binds her to the life of the girl in
England, the girl in France, the girl of the
past, and commits her, upon her entrance
into womanhood, to a fashionable creed
from WHICH sue CdnilOG uepdTG WltnOuI
signs and groans, as over a lapse from in
tegrity itself.
Hundreds of good, well-intentioned
American mothers suffer tortures of fear
and anxiety in regard to high-minded,
aspiring daughters who are unwilling to be
pared down to the conventional pattern,
make the usual running for few seasons,
bag their game and retire into matrimony
with the usual probematical chances of fu-
ture happiness. oh" remarked one re-
Gently, after the ceremony had been per-
formed which tied bright, handsome,
energetic girl TO a vain, effete, degenerate
scion of an old family, show thankful l am
that she is safely married and into family
as good as there is anywhere. Twas always
afraid she would go on the stage or write
tor the ne wSpaperS or do something that
would outrage her family and cut her off
from any chance of suitable marriage
But there is no danger of that now, thank
heaven, and l shall be able to rest in peace "
No thought of her daughters unused pow
ers, of her narrowed life, of the possibilities
of mischief growing out of recklessness and
ennui, entered her mind In her trailing,
white faille francaise embroidered with
pearls, her tulle yelling floating behind her,
she had performed what is still the whole
duty of woman and her mothers heart and
mind were at rest.
IL CQdTIulUR COUurdSU were WduU0u 10
the orthodox commonplace and iteration of
the society debutante, it may be found in
Mary Anderson's Perdita in IA Winters
Tale" This is a primitive one, but exquis-
ltely simple and natural. The people among
whom Perdita has been reared are half saw
age, but this young daughter of discred-
tied queen unites inherited refinement with
the freedom of the rude life which has sur
rounded her. The dress, straight to the
ankle or below of a soft, youthful pink,
with faint Greek border at the selvedge,
foot and bodice clearly outlining the sym
metry of young, graceful form, is model
OF hghtness and freedom from all disfgur-
ing appliances. Compare the movement Of
this young figure with the fettered action
OF the laced, the starched, the wired, the
mattressed 'make up'' of a young woman
entering society" Is there not enough of
strength and independence among us TO do
more than enter feeble protest against this
continuation of the follies of the old world,
from whose larger control we have been
emancipatedm
NEW OBSERVATIONS IN wooLEN FABRICS.
November is always distinguished by
many events which mark the opening of
tne season and indicate the current in which
Iashlon is find its direction. Ladies' "At
homes" informal ones begin in this month +,
many weddings take place, theaters open
ana important musical events, such as
grand concerts, precede the period of grand
VPera These are not occasions upon which
ule magnificent evening toilets are dis
played which attract attention later on in
me -