Sacramento daily record-union., 1888-09-22
LADIES' WAISTS.
THE SUBJECT FROM AN ANATOM-
ICAL STANDPOINT.
Women of To-day Said to Be Larger
Than Their Mothers-Facts
by Dressmakers.

''nu SAe'iioAhOtHSio were bSlOre lneln. ant
careful research and inquiry among thos,
who know about this sort of thing ha.
verified this statement
Women, certainly, are increasing in size
and if they continue at the same rate o.
development for the next century we NAV
expect to see as result marked physical
improvement in the race.
1t is not an easy matter to obsain the
necessary information m sufficiently exact
form from which to make deductions like
the above. The data must come principally
from those who are engaged in making or
purveying clothing for women, a work
which is divided into multitudinous
branches, and which cannot in any of its
various forms be made an exact science.
The custom of making gowns, cloaks, etc,
from careful measurements worked out by
charts, diagram or some of the numerous
systems of the day is very modern.
Twenty or twenty-five years ago the dress
makers blocked out rudely sort of rough
sketch in cloth of the garments to be made,
and this was then PINNED on" to the
future wearer, and, with taking in here
and letting out there, with pinchiug and
nipping and basting and shipping, it was
finally reduced to the required proportions
and made lovely fit.
A pattern was often cut from one sue
cessful model of this sort, in those uncriti-
cal days, to be used for many days and by
many persons thereafter.
However satisfactory to the weare1 this
process might be, one readily discovers that
1t gave no exact measurements to the seek
ers after such facts. So, although inter-
views were sought with women who had
been making lovely gowns for other women
for the last fifty years, and in one instance
with one who had succeeded her mother in
the business and had books extending over
a long period of years, yet no exact figures
can be given except for the last quarter of
a century.
These, however, are very instructive.
They show that twenty or twenty-five years
ago the average waist of young lady was
20 inches, while Is was considered the
proper size for true gentility, and many
boasted of II, 16 and even-oh horrors =
10 inches 1t was very buxom matron
who would confess to q or % inches.
Going little farther back than this, who
does not remember grandma whose waist,
according to the family tradition, grandpa
could span with his two hands?
Comparing with these figures the facts
which the modern dressmaker and cloak
maker furnishes. and we find that the aver
age waist measure for young woman of
this year of grace is from "a to 26 inches,
with hing r.1oa d
"Of course there are exceptions" said a
well-known fiIrrier and cloakmaker while
talking on this subject; "we do have Gus
toners who lace tremendously. Look at
this order for a close-6tting Jacket, for in
stance; the bust measure is 3S, indicating
a large woman, while the waist measure is
only % inches. How she can compress
herself to that size is mystery, but she
does"
"Do you have many such customers ?"
"No; it is only occasionally that orders
are given for garment Of certain size
and the customer agrees to get herself
into it. The majority of those for whom
we make garments have sensible, we'll
proportioned figures, which do not seem
to be greatly changed by compression of
any sort
With the question of height and weight
the makers of costumes have little to do.
rs either outer garments or dresses require
that only portion of the entire height
should be measured. The dressmakers,
however, say that there is corresponding
increase of height, which is indicated rela-
lively by the larger bust and waist meas
ures.
GROWING TALLER.
The larger bust measure, moreover. i'm
plies usually an increased weight, as it is
usually an indication of the plumpness of
the figure rather than the chest develop
ment, as in the case of man.
The gloye-makers, when interviewed on
this question, said that there was probably
no increase in size in the goods they sold,
though gloves were no doubt more COM
Portable to the hand now than formerly,
owing to the fact of their being more care
fully cut, made and fitted. The sizes OF
which the most gloves are sold are six and
six and quarter, and they have been the
standard sizes for many years. This is
true, however, only of a good class Of
goods and in 4 large city. In the cheaper
goods and in the smaller cities, towns OF
country larger sizes are sold. This also
has not changed relatively for long time
but remains the fact to day as it was years
ago.
The bootmaker agreed substantially with
the man who dealt in softer kid. The
pointed toes and high. pointed heel set half
way under the foot, in which our grand
mothers used TO rejoice, are now a thing o.
the past. The little satin slippers made
In this absurd fashion were pretty to look
at, and a brides shoe of that time no doubt
made pretty drinking cup; but for real
sensible, practical everyday use, the mod
ern Waulkenphasts and English-toeG
shoes and boots are immensely superior
articles
These modern shoes are not really an,
larger than the earlier foot coverings; bu
scientific knowledge Of anatomy has beer
combined with the skill of the shoemakers
and the result shows in vastly more com
Portable and sensible foot-gear. Every
body knows the Waulkenphasts, will
their broad soles and low, wide heels. The
so-called London toed' shoe and boot i
another and still more modern invention
and it seems as though perfection had beel
reached.
The toe is pointed, for the foot is no
square at the end, and there is no reason
why the boot should be, but the boot i
nearly straight on the inner side and curve
on the outer, bringing the point where
I should be, in a position to accommodate
the great toe with comfort. Then the up
pers are SO put on the sole that there i,
more room for the thicker portion, the inne
side of the foot, than is allowed for th
outer and thinner part. From three an,
a half to FIVE continue to be the averag
sizes sold, as for many years past, with
majority in favor Of four and half.
THE SURE RESULT.
1t will be seen, of course, that while tn
statements of boot and glove-makers do nc
mention any increasing size of feet an
hands among ladies, yet it amounts to tn
same thing practically. The increase a
the most would be very slight, and thi
could be easily accommodated without bs
ing perceived, even in the more scientif
cally cut and adjusted articles of to-day i
this line. The only fair test would be t
have some of our modern girls try to ste
into their grandmothers' shoes in litera
| e.. Ia =