Wichita eagle., 1888-09-05
DISHES OF ALL NATIONS.
esmosPolitan Dinners Served Up In vsss-
Gus New York RestaurantA

Cesmospoaita. Dinners Served Up In vass-
Gus New York Restaurants
mo matter.n said one Of the leading
''Bohemians' Of New York the other
day. mo matter what q mans tastes
may be, In the matter Of eating, or what
his lack a taste may be, ii he stop short
OF cannibalism In his desires. he can have
them gratified 70 the top OF his bent in
some Of the restaurants of New Ycrk.
shall begin at the top or the bot
som!" he ssked. rolling q cigarette. and
settling himsek for an interview. II
think," hs continued. without waiting
for an answer, that the top would b
the best. for probably even do not know
the bottom. l shall probably stop before
reach the end. for 1t is hard to saw who
does not know the worst restaurants in
town. have experimental as far asI
dare IN thai direction, but presume
haven't gone far enough.
The best dinners IN the world I be-
heve can be had in New Yerk. II You
want 10 dine a Ia Russo. and take all
night 10 1t, with surprise for every
course. you can do it at any one Of sew
eral expensive niaisons near Madison
square. This Is not dining, though:
that is s debauch. The chief OF the king
of Greece not long ago described an
ideal dinner, and such one you NAV
get if you can afford the price. in any
one Of twenty restaurants am not adj
vertising any of them. He suggests the
soups, one thin, the other thick. Then
two relieves. one Of fish. the other meat
and vegetables. Next, entrees. He
wisely recommended moderation here.
prefer only one, and like bit of poul-
try. This brings you 20 the meridian OF
the meal, and Is not had place for
pause, or even for full stop if YOU are
abstemious. IL not. take a sorbe;. NV
own notion is drop of brandy with a
cigarette, but most gourmets prefer 10
make a sweetened dainty of the alcohol.
Next, if you continue, and YOU prob
ably will, take some game in roast, ard
don't forget solid with IL A dinner
without salad is ike an egg without
salt. After this you are ready for tri-
fling. Dainty vegetables if YOU want
them, sweets or pastry if your tastes arc
etieminate. fruit if you Ike, coffee and
acigar necessarily.
This is model dinner, and will GO
best If prepared by an educated French
cook. Cooks are educated in other coun-
tries, but tnev seem 10 be indigenous 10
the French soil. Turkish cookery is not
unlike it. and embraces a very similar
variety. There Is no distinctivelv Turk
ish restaurant that | know here. but you
may get pilaff TO order in any good
French place.
The plaH is made by first boiling in
the same water, then frying in small
pieces, 4 chicken and portion of shcul-
der of mutton. 4 handful of rice is
next boiled in the same broth, drained
ard Drowned in butter An onion is
sliced and fried brown in butter, n table
spoonful of curry or saffron and a hand
full Of raisins are thrown into the rice,
which must simmer until soft. The
whole is served with hard boiled eggs cut
up for garnish.
1T would take all day to describe ma
tional dishes, and whole year for you
10 try them all, but you may do it in
New York If you like For Spanish food.
60 to the neiglborhood of Maiden lane
and Pearl street. German restaurants
are numerous on the east side. There il
capital one on Grand street. near the
Bowery. OF French places Of the me-
dunn class there are three or four ex-
cellent ones on BleeCker street, near
South Fifth avenue. Some first class
Chinese restaurants are located or Mott
street. Two good Jewish eating houses
are near corner of Bayard street and
the Bowery. There are five dlstinctyely
national Italian places in the bend IN
Mulberry street, and one Russian in
Hester street, near East Broadway.
There are several good English chop
houses, two of the best, to my r4ind. be
ing on Sixth avenue. near Twentieth
street, and OF Fourth avenue, also near
Twentieth street.
"Of American restaurants there IL no
end The very best, TO my notion. il
close to Washington market. The worst
well, there are 60 many worst on.s.
They arc all over town. You can eat a
drews' stands. You can go 10 a beanery
If you want 90 spend tsa OF twenty cents.
Or If you have only two cents % spend
you can go down ON Pearl street 10 one
of the two cent houses there.
''New York is probably the most coz
place in the world. and shows
It's comopolItanisrn most Of all in its eat
ng houses. New York Mali and TX
press.