Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-12-30

no expense or time has been spared in
bringing them to perfection as regards
color and design. Black jet and gold are
combined in many of those handsome
patterns which are easily diyisible into
distinct motifs A fleur de lis of an i'm
portant size is a good example. Many
| of the handsomest, in which braid is
used, are united by close crochet.
The colorings and mixtures of colors are
| beyond praise, in every sense harmonious
and according well with the materials for
| which they are intended. The guipures
are nearly all of mixed colorings, or of
two shades of color: dark blue blends
with red, green with tan, and cashme-
rienne tints are all interblended i'll one
design.
A novelty of the season is the very per-
feet imitation of braiding and Satin-stitch
embroidery in monochrome over cloth
and cashmere. Separate pine-patterns
and sprays and borders of various widths
are woven into the material, but give the
| effect of being worked by hand. Panels,
skirt fronts, plaStrons and facings are
made of this imitation braiding, and the
| plain material is always to be had to
match for the rest of the costume.
Stripes are being much worn this win
Ter, anu 10 treat Illtlll LlSIitdlly Is IDG
problem not only of amateurs but even of
| those who deem themselves artiStes.
Among the successes i'll this line may be
reckoned costume, of which the great
er portion is in brown camel's cloth,
made with great simplicity, and fitting
tightly to the figure. At thaTight side a
length of striped brown silk relieved with
pale maize, the two co1ors alternating N
the stripes, is carried from the shout
der to the edge Of the dress in a way that
is not easy to describe with only pen and
ink The bodice part of the silk is bias,
so that the stripes run straight down, but
the silk >itSelf traverseS the bosom to
the left side of the waist in a gently
diagonal line':,. The folds produced +hy
this method are every becoming. Tile
silk is not cut = but covers the fraqt of the
camelhair skirt, leaving the whole of the
left portion of the dress uncovered, eX-
cept an inch or two of the waist, where
the folds of the silk are caught in and
held by few strong but in
visible stitches. The back is entirely
covered with long drapery of the silk,
which is cut in one with the center pOr-
ton of the bodice. The under part of
the sleeves is made of the stripe, and the
upper, or perhaps it is better to call it
the outer part, is in the self-colored
camel s hair. Silks are striped with
satin or plush, or with small towerets of
the kind that milliners call pompadour.
But of whatever description the stripes
may be, there is no variation from the
rule decreeing that they shall be made
up in combination with plain material
There seems little doubt of the con-
tinued popularity of the redingote, al
though there is a marked difference IN
their cut since last spring. Redingotes
must be fashioned closely TO the shape of
the figure, and good deal of
extra width of skirt is placed in al each
of the back seams. In some cases actual
prettiness is sacrificed to novelty, or the
race for eccentricity, and a triple
shoulder cape is added, or a second bell
shaped fiuted sleeve is sewn into the arm
hole above the normal coat sleeve, which
is turned back with a narrow cuff
at the wrist. Other redingoteS
affect the pelisse form, and as the bodice
pieces are not necessarily cut in one with
those of the basques or skirts-a girdle or
sash concealing the seams which join the
upper and lower portioas-amateurs will
find them more easy TO treat with sue
cess. A comfortable everyday coat is
that in diagonal cloth with pleated center
pieces for the back and front of the