The Democratic advocate., 1888-06-09
1escriptiue Srtltles.
From rripoli to Alexandria.

Coming from the French possessions In
ALGERIA and Tunis to Tripoli is change
from tolerably well ordered countries to a
narrow strip of fertile, poorly cultivated
land with Turkish rule and garrisons, an
unhealthy and, for great part OF the year,
verv hot climate. Mirages are common,
and have often deceived mariners on the
inhospitable and poorly charted and llgnt-
ed coast. From the mountains and fertile
plains of the northern part to the ard
deserts and fat coast land of Tripoll-the
Sahara being but two miles inland from the
c;tv-is indeed an extreme change, and the
older order of things obtains, with all the
evils of Moslem misrule, wretchedness, ana
neglect. The few oases within travelling
distance send their products to the weekly
market, and these consist OF barley, dates,
rough cloths and carpets, cattle, horses,
ehiilies. some fruits, grasses, and melons.
1t is stated that gold dust is brought IN
also. Formerly the slave trade was prom
inent here. and caravans with slaves from
the interior were the chief source OF trade
and activity. =,
The garrison, besides occupying the
citadel. were encamped without the walls,
ON the right. in the public gardens, to the
number of two thousand. There is some
apprehension regarding the aims OF Italy
in this quarter, and these troops-at their
present strength-have not been here long.
Two well armed men-of-war were also In
the harbor, and the fortiication mounts
few large Krupp guns besides the consld-
erable number of ordinary cannon. The
walls are much worn and decaying, but
they are manned; sentinels are posted at
all points. and visitors are not permitted to
90 near them Two large schools were
visited at Z a. m, and were full OF all
classes of scholars-adults as well as boys
studying aloud. The morning hours are
not neglected by any portion of the COM
munity; trade was brisk, and none were
abed. The population consisted OF the
usual Jewish traders and merchants, very
many negroes from the interior, few
Europeans Maltese, Italians, aud French
aud the larger part Bedouins. The
Turks number not over a sixth OF the ln-
habitants. A large number of the Arabs
are Tunisian, and appear to be rather
hard lot. freely revillng the foreigner upon
sight. Since the French occupation OF
Tunis, these Arabs come into Tripoll, and
are said to be little troublesome. They
pitch their tents near the city,
For pure sightseeing of Arabs-their
mode of life, productions, trading capacities
and characteristics -Tripoli offers better
facilities than any other northern African
port. saw great heaps of their staples
arain. dates and chillies-and vast numbers
of camels, horses and some cattle. Well
bred and blooded colts of four or live
months were priced at from two to four
English pounds, and they were exqulsitely
beautiful. Cloths and carpets of coarse
make and fibre were strewn about for sew
eral hundred yards, and were mainly OF
wool. Barley and dates exceeded all other
displays, and the space occupied by the
market was certainly halt mile long by
quarter wide. The scene was unique;
there were money changers and story tel
lers, musicians and armorets, the rich, tat
Jew and the naughty, well-to-do Arab, with
servants of both sexes, black as Erebus, a
mingling of costumes and colors, flowing
white burnooses, and Aeadgear of all the
northern African races. Ears, necks, noses,
arms and ankles of the Arabs loaded with
jewelry; hidden faces, tattooed skins, the
lame and the sick-all we're there, and
rarely European. The sun beat down,
and there were no tents; the season was
declining; October was at hand, and the
thermometer was at 90.
There is no American consular office
here. The bazaars offer nothing unusual.
but they are large, roomy structures, and
with few exceptions are occupied by the
Jews. The principal stocks are cotton,
silks, carpets, embroideries and European
fancy articles, smokers materials, fezes,
arms, perfumes, and so on. There is no
good accommodation for travellers, and the
Tourist coming to Tripoli must rough it
must accept poor fare and many strange
bedfeIlows. The streets are merely lanes,
foul and ill-smelling to the last degree, and
there is no cleanliness. Sheep are killed at
any convenient wall, and the meat sold on
the spot; offal is left for dogs-too few for
the purpose-and one meets everywhere
heaps of garbage and refuse. Eye diseases
and poorly nourished children are common.
The best element of Tripoli seemed to me
to be the nomadic Arabs. They at least
appear clean, and, with their fine faces, tall
figures and haughty bearing, their quaint
arms, their pure white flowing costume,
necessarily going and coming, on camel or
horse, they have striking individuality
There is no way of ascertaining the
volume of trade accurately, and though it
may not be as large as formerly in the days
of slave selling, and the great caravans
from the far interior, it is nevertheless
considerable and mainly local. OF course
there are no docks, and all loading and dis
charging Of steamers is done by large boats
and lighters. Labor is cheap as well as
human life. With the extinction of piracy
and slavery, and the decline of the power
of the reigning ehiefs-from this last cause
more than anything else-Tripoli as well
as Tunis soon took an inferior place, and
is now rarely heard of in material sense.
There does not appear to be much to attract
foreign conquest, and if it is asserted that
Algeria is drain on the French treasury,
it is inconceivable that Tripoli could ever
support for any length of time European
force. 1t is an unhealthy country, and the
few square miles of fertile coast land in the
immediate vicinity of the capital offers the
choicest part of the country. Its probably
hotter than Egypt, with the desert few
miles away on three sides, and the relative
humidity is extreme.
From Tripoli to Egypt is an agreeable
change, but before reaching Alexandra
there are days Of scorching heat and bis
tering sun, steaming along the arid north
ern coast. The first impression one forms
Of Egypt at the present time is that
struggle is going on between many forces,
q III