Sacramento daily record-union., 1888-12-08
THE FASHIONS.
THE LATEST TO BE SEEN AT
NEW YORK.
Empire and Directoire Styles What
We Look at-Evening Co.'S
tunes and Accessories.
lRrcoRD-US1os Fashion correspondence.]

tunes ana Accessories.
[REcoRD-UNIoN Fashion Correspondence
New YORK, December l, 1888.
In fashion books the words Empire"
and Directoire constantly occur. What
do they mean? Not that fashion has re-
turned or is returning to the scant drapery
and waists under the arms" of Joseph
inc; nor that the styles of the French Di-
rectory are now to regain supremacy. But
with liberal hand, ideas of these times
have been appropriated and modified to
suit present occasion. Empire waists, then,
mean round and comparatively short ones.
Empire sashes wound about the corsage
apparently shorten it, while empire drap-
cry falls in classic-like folds, quite opposed
to anything on the pull-back order. In
the directoire styles, there is prevailing
leaven of severity. The polonaise is now
often not polonaise, but directoire coat,
hanging severely plain as if scorning the
levity of looped-up drapery. The direc-
toire redingote is the same thing under
another name and directoire hats present
defiant outlines All this, of course, is
fatal to the hustle, such as it has been un-
derstood, and in its place comes SO unob-
trusive substitute, that it offends nobody.
Skirt reeds have, of course, grown modest
likewise. Distinct as are the changes in
costumes, however, they are not so marked
as in cloaks, since what last winter would
have been called enormities, are this
season
MERELY LOOKED AT.
They are looked at because the eve is
not yet accustomed to a cloak hanging
loose and straight from yoke, the hands
protected by huge, grandmotherly muff,
and the formidable outfit surmounted by
an aureole brimmed hat The wrong peo-
pie will, of course, assume these styles,
and when of ample proportion, apparently
take up the sidewalk. Still looked at, also,
is the new veil that is supplement of the
broad-brimmed hat. 1t can hardly lie
worn with any other, because it needs to
be kept at convenient distance from the
face, which is prisoner within, since
gathered below the chin by narrow rib
bon run in, it cannot be lifted at will. A
lace edging gives finish below, and it is
sloped upwards at the back Such daring
innovation has brought about a general
disturbance on the subject of wells, that
stereotyped to righteousness, have had
their limited fall Just to the end of the
nose. Now, if desired, they are pulled
lower; they may cover the face, or again,
some lady of fashion may be seen, whose
hat is completely covered by the large
veil thrown obliquely over, caught together
at the back and falling in deep point in
front. Gauze wells are passed around the
head with ends tied in large bow in
front, while, if the numerous colors in
which wells are brought out be considered,
one can readily see that the subject is a
varied one
THOSE IMMENSE HATS.
Not looked at is the stage of more than
one theater now, because of some broad
brimmed hat or hats; they were never
more plentiful, and with exasperatingly
high crowns trimmed all over with loops,
bustling feathers or ostrich tips, COM
pletely obscure the vision. In contrast
one might mediate much on the red
derbys that are so jaunty, cheap and be-
coming; they are quite the rage, and
clapped on with masculine ease, cause
wonder why they were not thought of be-
fore. Young ladies only should wear
them.
other fur jackets and shoulder capes which
now make their appearance. Some of
these garments might, indeed, be more ap-
propriately classed under the heading of
Looked At" since they show quite new
features. For example, shoulder cape
of seal skin, natural seal, krimmer or
Scotch lamb, or a cape of any one of the
last named varieties, may be touched up
with seal fur.
Jackets display like combinations, even
to the extent of sleeves and vest differing
from the remainder of the garment, while
aunty leopard skin jackets still attract
some attention.
Boas are special subjects for play of
fancy. Slender girls have appreciated and
acted upon the possibilities of the lengthy,
long haired boas for street wear elegant
boas are now of cocks plumage or ostrich
feathers, while for evening, successive roses
are strung together, competing successfully
with ostrich feather boas in pale blue,
pink, maize or crimson. Lace boas are of
course no novelty, but must not be omitted
from the list of attractive fancies in this
line
ARTICLES OF EVENING WEAR.
Brocades for evening wear were never
in more demand, but the stiff Empire pat
terms distinguish them from textures of
former seasons. Velvet is a favorite COM
bination, faille and peau de sole being also
employed, while now for the first time
brocades Of different patterns are put to-
gether. The varied gauzes and laces Of
the day remain in vogue and are usually
made up in Empire style, while richer
materials, such as brocade, etc., are better
suited to Directoire outlines.
Empire slippers with sharp pointed toes
and low heels, show cross garters of narrow
ribbon attached at the sides, and Empire
fans made of ribbon or lisse laid in rows
and embroidered, being suspended from
the arm, by ribbon loop.
Light tan shades come first for evening
gloves, which are long as ever, but now
finished by a delicate cord on the back.
Gray comes next to tan, and complement
Of white gloves are worn. Both tan and
bronze slippers remain fashionable, but
frequently the slipper matches the dress,
and in all cases hosiery must follow suit.
The hair is dressed high or with Grecian
knot, and in the latter case the front hair
may be bound by fillet of ribbon, or hall
wreaths of very small flowers arranged in
fillet style. RosALIND MAY.
THE PANAMA CANAL.