The morning news., 1888-12-01

season. 1t is revived in all the shades which
the color has ever known, from dark bottle
greenwich combines as well with ruby
and terra-cotta-tot the Lincoln green, which
Is the proper compliment to old rose; and
the yellow, nile greens, the gray or sage
and the wild olive, all Of which look well
with flesh pink or naSturtium as relief.
These contrasts in color are not made
obtrusive. They are used as linings.a as vests,
as panels, as insertions; but where used in
combination, or as trimming, they are COW
cred with open pasSmenterie, with richly
jetted lace or with a netted cord, to which
small pendants are attached. The inserted
trimmings form lanceolated leaves and
tongue shapes upon the bodice, or repeat in
miniature the panel design upon the skirt.
Among the afternoon dresses seen re-
Gently was one of fawn colored cloth, with
opening at the side showing a fine knife
plating Of cream velontine, with tiny in
terwoven check OF brown silk and gold
The redingote had one reUerS carried from
the collar to the opposite side of the waist
which was faced with the check and outlined
with rows of fiat, gold braid which extended
to and down the left of the skirt, forming a
widening panel The sleeves were slightly
full, set high and finished with cuffs orna-
mented with gold braid. The crown of the
bonnet was of the check, the brim of fawn
colored velvet, two bands of gold braid
divided the crown from the brim and high
loops of fawn colored velvet ribbon, with a
full plume of crimped ostrich feathers
(cream) formed the trimming.
A rich dress woru on the same occasion
was of black velvet, with one gored pauel
of plated, ruby red silk, the color repeated
in ruby bonnet. The trimming was heavy
gold passmenterie in acorn pattern, and was
wonderfully effective, but rather startling.
FITTING TOILETS FOR FIRST NIGHTS.
The first nights" at the principal thea
ters are always events for which more than
usual toilet preparation is made. This is
particularly the case with the occupants of
boxes; and with the rich and ornamental
character which theater bonneus have as
sumed adds immensely to the spectacular
effect of the house On one of these occa-
sions young lady, recently bride. wore a
poppy red silk, with gathered front and
back of poppy colored lace, and vest of solid
gold embroidery in a pattern of oats.
Around the throat was an antique necklet
of gold, with small gold coins attached.
An always certain way of attracting at
tention is by displaying in public rich cos
tune in all white or all black. A white
theater costume worn at a theater party by
a daughter of the hostess, short time since,
was or white, peau de sole, which is an
other name for satin de Lyon, or what was
forty years ago, called satin Levantine, a
silk with fine, dull, twilled, satin surface,
durable and entirely without gloss. The
modern fabric has the old, soft finish and a
depth of tone which is more becoming to
the complexion than a smooth, superficial
surface. This rich, creamy silk was arranged
in straight lines, with one wide panel,
formed of tiny, speck- tassels of pendant
silk, low empire bodice of silk Grape under
a wide, full, soft sash of silk, knotted to the
left side, opposite the panel. A single string
of pearls encircled the throat, and were con-
cealed, on entering and leaving, by long
white wrap, plated into a velvet yoke,
lined with white silk plush and bordered
with white feather trimming. In the visi-
BILE aspect of this costume there was not a
vestige of color.
The modified empire style has achieved
great popularity among girls and young
married women, who "have the figure for
it." Those who sport the directoire cos
TUNES in the day time, generally appear
drEnlpire in the evening, or in some mod
flied form of it. For example, a low,
square cut ''baby" bodice of silk muslin.
the bust outlined with narrow bands Of In
dian embroidery. Wide sash of soft, yell
low silk, knotted on tue side over straight
skirt of embroidered silk gauze and long,
loose cream tinted kid gloves, reaching
above the elbow.
The worst of the empire style is the
necessity for slippers which it entails, and
the difficulty which it revives in regard to
warm and sufficiently protective under
wear. Carried to its ultimatum, as it was
in the days of Josephine and the Bona
parties, warmth and even decency are sacri-
feed to an ultra lightness and delicacy of
material and form. That 1t will ever reach
such an extreme in these days of enlight-
ened self-interest is not to be believed; but
there are still those who are capable Of a
good deal Of folly, and who receive the aid
of universal publicity in standing as the
representatives of all, instead of a moiety,
Of women.
On the other hand, it not only reduces
drapery, it obliterates. The skirts Of en-
pire gowns are straight and narrow,
finished at the foot with a ruche, a border
of embroidery or rows of fiat trimming.
The newe fabrics, arranged with particl-
lar reference to this modern development,
old Greek, key and coin borderings, are
woven in almost invisible lines into thin
materials and into light and soft evening
silks and gauze tissues which those require
only a hem below the woven lines. This,
of course, gets rid of all the mass of
balayeuse ruffllng and plating, interior
and exterior.
The correct underwear is knitted, not
woven, silk, elastic but close as another
skin, and making no perceptible addition to
the bulk. The low-cut satin corset, to which
a new and improved class has been at
tached defines the waist and bust. Over
this low princesse cover of silk or lawn
fits like glove, descending to the edge of
the corset, and to this edge is
attached a deep, scant flounce of
fiue silk and wool flannel richly
embroidered and lace trimmed. skirt of
silk surah gathered or plated to a deep
undergarment; and the whole weight of the
as light and flexible as possible, is not over
a pound and may be less. Imagine dancing
in a dress like this, after dragging about
trains and groaning under te-backs,
steels and mattresses" No wonder the
girls are iubilant over the prospt CT
One result of the revival of the empire
STYLES is to be noted and remembered; this
is the shortening of the bodice and the re-
duction of tournure. Whether the distinct
style is individually adopted or not, it will
have the effect of modifying the length Of
waist in all forms and strengthening the
feeling in favor of unframed, slightly
draped skirts for evening wear. In other
respects the ordinary evening dress remains
the same. The low bodice is still cut pointed
back and front, the silk resting closely
against the fair skin, without edging Of lace
or tulle.
Thin figures and matrons drape the
bodice, as they have done heretofore. with
falling lace or gathered folds of gauze, crepe
or silk null, but no edging is used above
the silk. The best authorities still recon-
,,1aDd leo silk iliuSiOn. matching in color