New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-10-21
LADIES' TAILOR GOWNS.

The fashions of English taors we're never more
beautiful than they are this season. Inc now so""s
and coats prepared for the fall and winter ao al
ca made In the best sense OF thai mucnao"Seu
term Their beauty and grace are depehoen' opo"
the artistic use OF straight lines and classic curves
in oovns which are moulded to the figure with per-
feet skill The best tailors mako no EFFORT 10 com
press the figure into their gowns, tricK resor'ea
10 by inferior allors and dressmakers 10 secure mo
gloye-like III Of the gown. wellmade gown y n''ed
so that It is perfectly comfortable and the requSc
amount ~ paddng IS resOrted TO In order to mould INC
form II necessary TO proper propofuons' LUG 'o'o'
of the style of the new gowns ana COATS inc COM
na,avc,v utfle use OF rich velvets and other trin-
mngs brings into full effect the perfect NJ ana nniSh
of the iailor-made garments.
Directore styles arc generally used for street gowns
There are scarcely any Of the models that DO not
show some influence OF tbs Drcctoe In their maheup
Green is at Lresent the most popular color IN clou
Many gowns and jackets also are made up I'D u~iA-
brown and navy blue Plain smooth cloths are more
used by taIors this than any other ms'er'ss
Beaver cloths, which invariably lined Throughout.
with satin, are used In different "clsn's ioi i~1 ~
winter jackets and coats.
The DirecoIre polonase has many forms In It's
simplest shape II Is merely straight smoothly NJ
ting garment extending TO the foot OF The underHr a.
the back and Sides but cut of in front at the waist
to d. play the entire front breadth OF the undershf
which NAV be omamented with brading,
applique figures, and in other ways me narins
cuff turned back fom the wrist and the large notched
revers displaying small pointed vest with stand
Ing collar complete the waist. beautiful gown OF
dark-brown ladies' cloth, made In this way, has the
front breadth of the under kr of awn-coored cloth
ornamented with applique figures outlined In brown
and gold braid. IL Is draped UP al the side to dis
rlay all ornamented sdrt beneath OF the dark color
of the coat. The wide and cufs are OF heavy
corded silk the OF the polonaise and the pointed
vest Of fawn cloth is nearly covered with brown and
gold braiding.
Green cloth braided with black simply
finished with cuffs and collar OF black Is considered
an especially stylish combination this season for
gowns jackets Duh mgnonette- green cloths are
braided with oxldzcd silver braid. charming gown
of cloth OF this color Is draped to the edge of the
foundation skirt except at the left side OF the 'front.'
where the drapcry is held back. displaying the heavy
corded silk undeIskir straight sash OF corded SILK
ornaments the right side OF the gown and the short
pointed bodice Is finished with narrow vest Of
ded slk with OF silver bradng on either side
graceful modification Of the DlrecOire dress Is
made with the front breadths Of the undershrt laid
In small parts Tho fronts Of the redlngote are all
braided slightly with gold in the low r corners,
and trimmed back merely enough to show facing
OF heavy corded SILK; tho waist of the redingoie
laps the right side, and is braided with gold
in the line OF the buttons; vest IS shown. All
gowns made by talors, whether IN Directore fashion
otherwise, made to be worn with tournure,
which IS but a few inches smaller than those worn
with cloth dresses during the summer; the change
Is 50 slight that 1t IS hardly noticeable.
The Dircctolre greatcoat is one of the most grace
ful evoluons from these fashions. It IS a closelyH
ting coat reaching to the foot OF the gown. II ia
especially made Of duh emplre-green beaver cloth
The high collar IS lined with black Persian lamb, and
Is arranged 10 stand up on the neck during mild
weather when the garment IS buttoned TO the throat
TO turn back and display the Drcctorc vest Of black
Persian lamb which Is added for warmth.
triple cape merely plped with gold braid IS feature
Of this coat Large cuffs Of Persian lamb finish the
sleeves. and covered pocket laps. ornamented with
huge buttons all sot az the lack side seam and
he HRS. The buttons Of this garment designed
esrec ally for the tailor, and large metal disks
namented with bowling figure OF Frenchman
Of the Directore period
Jackets are but ;rihe longer. a. previously noted.
They made OF fine beaver and smoothfaced plain
cloths Of various kinds deliberately braided with black
Russian braid and gold cord. 4 jacket in navy
blue cloth is braided the shoulder and the pattern
extends the tops Of The sleeve design modelled
after cord and tasseL The brading edges the gar
meut and extends down the three seams at the back
ending in a tassel pattern. Plain jackets made by
hab!i-makers are of wide striped diagonal cloths IN
ndstinct PATTERN Of cross-bar the
diagonal stripe. These cloths made up into
close fitting double breasted Jackets which are
often curved up the hip rather than straight around
last Plain cht cloths used 10 som
eXtcnt for driving iacltnis Newmarkets are made of
plain dark cloths. stylish ulster Of dark gray
cloth Is fastened at the right hip diagonally
70 the LEFT shoulder. A slight zg-zag pattern Of fine
black braid edges the ulster down the front around
the sleeves and high standing collar; and loops o.
tubular black braid tied IN careless Austrian knot
form four frogs that close the diagonal front.
The millinery displayed by English tailors are
bonnets and the largo Dlrectciro hats with pro
nounced IN 'front.' which have found special
favor. although they belong to this style Of dress.
Ncw-York women rule do not like large bon
net and modification of the extreme Drectore
styles found In the lttle low-cIOwned French shapes
with stfdcht brms which project over The eyes VIII
PROBABLY be worn by young ladies' Little smplc
bonreis more elegant than now Thy
are made in felt trimmed In velvet Grape aud wings
for general wear ia velvet with ostrich tips and
other dressv materials with black vel,ot how laco
jet and black aigrettes for theatre reception wear
French bonnets often have soft fronts of purod velvet
, STYLE exceedingly becoming 10 young. fair faces
but these pulled br ms have IN singla OF bring
and the severely plain front viii be found more
becoming. charming bonnet of bright red crapc
IS made with opea-w0rk wings Of jet at the sides
a high trimming Of black aigretcs. black velvet bow
and black lace oyer the forehead ana with strings
Of black velvet about two and half inches I'm width
which Will be tied by the wcarcr under the chin.
There arr many graceful llftie tOQu's OF shrrcd
velvet and dainty rcn shape " rh approa, irly
the shape on 2 bonnet except that tie strings
omitted. These hats arc old enough 10 be worn by
adics who have adhered regularly to the small
honuet heretofore The large. graceful low-crovncd
English hats Finished with trimmings OF 1nc
velvet caught caIel-ssly half the crown with
ie~elled pins and the brm Is then covered with
nat wreath OF Ostrich plumes; These hats are IS
pcclaly designed for young ladies. A noteworthy
feature OF millinery IS the height TO which trimmings
often carried on lOwcrOWned hats. In lite of
al that has been sad OF the prevalence Of low shapes
the trimmings often masSed SO high that the hat
IS high last winters shapes. Bcnnets lower.
Ladies are now wearing two chatcalne braids low
at the back: a style Of hairdressug many years
ago. The hair Is divided about the middle OF tho