New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-01-29
BONNETs AND HATS.
THE COMING SPRING STYLES.
SUGGESTIONS FOR oUT-oF-TowN RErAILERs-T
gUADFD rrrrcra


erials, feathers and ribbons Is Of the noteworthy
features Of the goods. Gilt and fancy metal
effects combined In all tho tints Of tho colOrcard Of
tho Partisan Syndcato' OF feather and flower makers,
shown In embrolderes and laces. In clusters Of
fancy flowers, and In alover embroidered goods In
tended for soft and purs of garnlturc These
fancy effects will be popular at the beginning Of the
season while novelties In demand for little Easter
bonnets and early spring wear. Later In the season
importers believe that plain velvets heavyrbbed silks
OF rch lusrous quality and ribbons Of fine gros grain
will succeed the shaded goods. Long, slender sprays
Of flowers. large tips half plumes suits the
pose OF the millner. with touches Of tho Venetian
metalwork embroidery above described Will probably
be the trimming used by tho exclusive trade
All shapes are rather larger than last season. Tho
tendency Of nearly all hats Is to tho poke effect though
there turbans and hats with English beefeater
crowns which have aring or rolled brin Tho crowns
sent over from Partisan manufacturers are extremely
low: number Of the round crowns which have never
found favor in this country shown. 1t Is prob
able that the most popular hats VIII have medium
square crown, a compromise between the extremely
high crown of q few seasons past and the low, nat
exhibited, though tho latter will no doubt
DO popular during the beginning Of the season with
lovers Of novelty. The " La Tosca," shape copied
from tho hat worn by Sarah Bernhard In the last
drama written for her by Sardou, promises to DO
popular shape and IS an excellent illustration Of some
Of the leading points In many Of the new hats Tho
crown IS low and square, slopng toward the front;
tho brm Is nearly six inches wide in front. and be-
comes gradually narrower till 1t is but two inches In
width at the back This hat Is faced with dark vel
vet, directly the forehead. and tho trimming
Is massed In high cluster at the back
English walking hats In the old fashioned familiar
shape; hats with low either square or round,
and wide brims with high side roll: cadet hats with
a sopng and straight wide brlm In front. which
becomes a mere inch edge at tho back. arc shown In
fine Milan and other straws.
Little bonnets arc gradually becoming larger and
with this exception they differ little nom the shapes
worn in felt this winter Frames for dress bonnets
in decided poke shape not unlike the poke intro
duced late last fall which projected directly over tho
forehead. All straw bonnets and frames are notched
or curved up tho back allow for the close Psyche
knot which Is now worn with bonnet. and VIII prob
ably be popular this summer on ordinary occasions
Tho immense number Of frames imported indicates
that season s anticipated Of made bonnets" of soft
silk Illusions embroidered gauzes, grapes and Other
materials. An extremely narrow space left for tho
soft shows that the crown OF poke bonnets Oh
lace will be small In almost comcal effect which may
DO softened by the trimming OF the millner IL IS
impossible to tell how the new shapes Will be trimmed
1t to be almost certain that brims will be faced
with velvet that hat brlms will be generally caught
up at the back against the crown and that the back
OF tho hat will In most be the objective point
of trimming.
The principal novelty in straw the ombre shaded
braids each straw Of the plat Is shaded from dark
to a light tint OF gray golden brown, cedar green,
steel color, or red. These brads may be used for
entire bonnets for early spring or as border to bon
nets with made Of silk. velvet or gauze Fancy
brads with shapely scaoped edges braided In two or
moro coors are used for the same purpose. Ne
apolitan Is shown In plain and crmped brads with
narrow cord of straw the size Of whipcord edgtng
ptral adj NJ afr
hats of black Tuscany braid, which need no moro
trimming than a cluster of bright ribbons knoted
bow Of plaid silk, are again imported Chip hats ana
bonnets and combinations Of chip and Neapoltan
braid are to a considerable extent Fine Milans
WILL without doubt, DO the most desirable straw this
season. but milnes say that chip hats are gradually
coming into favor, and that more will be used this
season than ever Immense Leshorn hats for chill
drens wear are imported extensively.
While there Is no striking change in colors, Partisan
dyers, with shrewd eye to trade, have managed to
alter the tone Of all the old colors which they use In
new goods so that they will not match the leftover
stock Of last season. al have plumes In moro than
forty shades" said a prominent importer, and not
one Of them matches harmOnlzeS with the new
coors yet do not notice the difference until put
old color the new" The most desirable colors
in straw arc greens In dark cedar shades yellowish
reseda tlnts and emerald colors, beige pure grays,
brown and black A large number of bright rcd sraws
have been imported Navy blue straws are passe.
Dull shades of terra Gotta Siam and Congo are shown
in straw, and are considered very desirable Tho ten
dency OF the season Is to harmony In color rather than
in violent contrast. Strong coors VIII DO avoided'
briliancy of effect will be obtained by FREQ use OF god
In embroidery or Venetian embrolderies In colored
metal as brilliant in tono Venetian glasses Creme
and wheat coors are shown in variety OF tIIs rum
ming into a golden brown. " Paradise Is RADIANT
shade of yellow sOcaed from the yellow tint In the
bird of paradise plumagc. This Is new Color anu
Will he an excellent ono to brighten dark shadeS anu
bring out their purity of TONGA fol ior o'her oo'o'
II Is also dull enough to be as becoming, worn next
the skim as yellow lace, softening the flesh tints Inc
Intense yellows are straw, maize and beaten GOLD
Tho fiery red shades Bengal, EtDa, Equinoxe.
Nublan f. a brilliant copper color Antique gold Is
a dull golden color without any OF the greenSh TINT
Of old gold. Tituel, tho pale yellow green Oh the
linden tree will be popular tint In plumes ana now
srs. Half plumes arc shown both In light shade,
shaded to a dark color and In dark SHADE uppeu
with q lighter tint Thus there are piuheS shaoeu
from dark cedar green to light uel. from dark terra
Gotta TO paer Congo from dark blue ocean green to
the pale blush tint known as Nile green or TO man.
ufacturcrs as gulf green Dark castor gray piumes
are shaded to a lighter tint, and pale suedc-co!oTed
plumes are tipped with golden brown
Pumes about fourteen inches In length whcn arc
known to manufacturers as " uem p'uHo'' va v
extensively used during tho coming season. iney arc
Imported in plain and shaded coors for the purpose
I, "a said OF massng them In triple clusters on the
hat though It Is impossible to tell exactly how they
will be used as trimmed pattern hats ana oonno''
have We, arrived Large tips, almost as large as
dem- plumes arc also shown. 1t seems certain tha'
tho trimming on all bonnets and low-crowned ha's
will be high Long sprays of natural flowers almost
long and slender enough for wreaths roses with ouas
thorned stems and leaves which seem as naturai as
thoy were plucked from the garden; sprays .. .ass
49,. .o,lors and dandel.ons field daisies, butercups
a., ,her s,mplo Wild flowers are shown for trimming
Th.. no stIIl some clusters Of velvs' f1wors mingled
with sprays OF heather grasses and slender curling
-, d,eerent tints OF metal. frosted with metal
IN IrIdescent colors. Breasts OF white maraoou''
mounted with tiny humning BIRDS, arc again 'ho""