Los Angeles daily herald., 1888-11-04
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
As Reported by the Fashion Edito
oil ssHarper,s Baxar.''

oil .sHarper,s Baxar.''
The fashion modestes who remain late
In Paris have returned, bringing with
them the latest novelties, and winter
xowns Of perfected designs that cannot be
obtained earlier in the season. The most
elegant carriage and visiting dresses i'm
ported are in the Empire and Directoire
styles, carried out in brocades OF quaint
designs, in plain vests and passementerie
garniture, or in the dull satin like peGu
de sole, and when wool is chosen ladies'
cloths that have gay embroidered bord-
0s, and are combined Win
velvet, with peau de sole, white plush
or with fur. These rich dresses are ex-
tremely slender in outline, and are al
most entirely without drapery, their
slight tournure being supplied by one or
two short steels (only twelve and six.
teen inches long,, and a very small pad
hustle, if any. Wraps are seldom made
10 match these dresses, as they are to
he worn under long cloaks, which may
be lef. in the carriage, while boa OF
sskrich feathers, the color OF the dress,
on else small fur cape, is worn into the
slyawinp.room. A muff and bonnet OF
ribbons, lace, galloon, and bands OF fur,
are made by French modiste to match
some of these gowns, but with no refer
enee whatever to the carriage cloak.
The Empire gowns, for which Worth
n famed. this season have q simple
BASQUE back, while the front is shorter,
rounded lust below the waist, and COW
cred frem the armpits down with the
dyaped Empire belt, which is now greatly
widened and carried straight across
not diagonally as formerly-beginning
inst below the sleeve in the under.arm
seam on the right side. and crossing to
hook in the left under-arm seam from
the sleeve down to the end OF the waist.
This belt is the dress material or OF one
Of it's combinations; it le about
eight or ten inches wide, is
anlined, hemmed at top and bottom,
And is the only covering the waist
lining has from the top OF the darts
downward. Above the belt the waist
may be full from the neck down, open
fng over a plastron, or else it has length
wise trimmings of lace or galloon. The
hack of such basques is in box pleats or
Bsaf points in the middle forms, and
square tabs on each of the two side forms,
making four tabs, and their edges, even
though OF satin, silk or velvet, are now
finished with stitching in single row
fourth of an inch above the edge. The
sleeves are in the present acceptation OF
the mutton-leg shape-a full coat sleeve
pushed up at the top IN wrinkles
1round the armholes. The skirts OF
such gowns are all in straight lines,
opening over an inner skirt in front the
whole length, and with side pieces OF the
combination material, finished at the
foot and sides to lap toward the front or
the back. Fringe is often set at the foot
of these fiat breadths. These skirts are
vsry full, as all skirts without drapery
Knnst be, yet they are in folds that make
the figure slender; foundation skirts are
now made two and three-fourths OF a
yard wide. As an illustration Worth
sends London smoke (gray drab) peau de
seis gowns combined with side breadths
al black in wide velvet and satin stripes,
yiththe smoke-colored breadths trimmed
across the foot with deep vandyke
2Dints of black cord passementerie, and
opening very slightly down the entire
'front.' of the skirt to disclose band OF
male blue moire with red moire on each
aide of it. These striped bands are made
OF ribbons laid smoothly upon each other.
The basque of the peau de soie has
deep Empire belt Of the black striped
velvet and satin covering its rounded
fronts while above is the peGu de sole
gathered at the top, with narrow point
ID gimp coming down each side where it
opens on the gray ribbon plastron with
scarlet In the middle and the blue rib
bons on the sides. turning away in tiny
ravers at the top next standing
collar of the blue ribbon, with turned
over collar of the pedu de soae behind,
The mutton-leg sleeves have the folds
ACROSS the top banded at their lower
edge by the pointed gimp, and another
row is around the wrist, with edges OF
both red and blue ribbon showing from
the inside. A similar gown for young
lady is of bright red ladies' cloth, with
The wide belt of the same, and ruches OF
black lace above the belt, trimmed with
Insertions of the lace around the cloth
akirt, inserted literally, and showing the
silk foundation skirt through it, while
between these insertions are rows OF
black satin piping folds, or milliners'
sGlds, as they were formerly called.
Large e-patterned brocades of single
color are combined with velvet Of the
same or q contrasting color for dressy
afternoon toilets, and green is the fash
unable choice of such gowns. One
Aade by Worth has the brocade Of green
satin leaves on gros grain ground for the
basque with mutton-leg sleeves of velvet,
also q velvet vest which turrs over in q
rolling collar precisely as mems vests do,
to show chemisette Of pink crepe lisse
gathered to a standing collar of the lisse,
which is inside a turnover collar
of the brocade. The trimming is wide
gimp Of shaded green silk cords, and
very few copper beads set on the front as
= pointed girdle, also laid fiat around the
armholes, resting on the corsage next the
full high tops of the sleeves. The skirt
has the long full breadths of the brocade
opened in front and behind to show vel
vet breadths underneath, with broad
revers of the velvet turned back, with
she gimp laid upon them.
Gowns entirely of velvet in the ame-
thyst, rosewood, brown, gray or new green
shades, are trimmed with black passe-
menterie of silk cords in the new open
designs that have lace-like meshes
wrought in the figures, or else they are
mounted over black net of large meshes,
which in its turn is laid upon satin of q
lighter shade than the velvet. This pas
sementerie comes in sets, and is black
by preference for trimming velvet of any
color; it forms very narrow border
for edging the front and sides OF
the skirt, which also passes up each side
70 the waist line. while wide corner pieces
are at the foot on the sides, with some