The Portland daily press., 1888-04-18


ceeds of the gambling tables. But in sud-
den, unlucky moment, every system Ialls
and generally, all the Ill gotten gains with
perhaps a life estate goes. Then men go
out sometimes, and in the very corridors,
take their own life. But this IS too dlsor-
derly a proceeding for Monte Carlo. and the
sound of it would soon tarnish its unfair
nished respectability. The golden machin-
cry must not for an instant be clogged; IN
twinkling with no noise the body is put out
of the way and nothing is paralyzed and
nobody excited. But the Bank generally
does a better thing. When it sees that a
man has lost his all and is discouraged 1t
advances sum sufficient for current ex-
penses and quietly rids the place OF him in
few hours.
Monaco is an absolute monarchy in every
thing but the post Office and custom house,
which belong to France. 1t is governed by
a few Princes of the House of Grimaldi, who
own the Bank, which pays all the expenses
of state and supplies all the revenues.
Nobody is taxed, and nobody is forced to stay,
but no person objectionable to the Bank can
remain. But It's after all like a city that IS
built over a volcanoes mouth and some day 1t
will be swallowed up by the very fires,
kindled by its own moral r0ttenneSS. The
principally is Monaco, but Monaco is Monte
Carlo because Monte Carlo is Monaco. The
whole principality is only five and three
quarters miles square and contains the capl-
tai Of the same name and the city Of Monte
Carlo. The capital has twenty-nlne nun
dred inhabitants. and Monte Carlo has only
a small permanent population.
Mentone is much like what Monte Carlo
would be without its Casino. 1t formerly
belonged to Monaco.
San Reno seems little darker and ehiller,
as IL slight shadow had yelled the MONDAY
sun. The ruin from last years earthquake,
of which we saw so many signs, can hardly
account for the shadow, and the atmosphere
n 10 do
the sun for whole city. But Zirio, where
we found the Crown Prince one week ago, is
a cheerful sunny villa built upon high en-
bankment, like all the villas on the Riviera.
We visited the little German chapel on Sun
day, where the Crown Princess and the
three young princesses were worshlpping.
They were very simply dressed, and have
PLAIN, sober, German manners. They did
not seem cast down by the shadow Of any
great sorrow, as they walked cheerfully
away toward Villa Zlrio. nor elated, unc0n-
scious as they were Of the glory ripe for fall
ing ON their heads. To-day they wend their
way through mountain passes to the music
of the tolling bells in Berlin, which beckon
the sick man on TO mourning and the cares
of an Empire. A nation mute with grief
and expectancy, grief over the death Of good
Kaiser William, dear to every German heart,
and with expectancy Of good and righteous,
though short, reign OF the new Emperor
Frederick.
The drive from Mentone to Nice is called
Ie, route de Cornische, and is much more
agreeably taken by carriage than. by rail,
since it traverses the most beautiful part of
the Riviera. We took carriage at Mentone,
and looking back got last beautiful glimpse
of the city. Wethen ascended hill through
luxuriant vegetation, by the side OF which
were orange and lemon groves with the fruit
ready for pick. Here we caught our frst
glimpse of Monaco. To the right, higher up,
IS Roscabruna, which with Mentone former
ly belonged to Monaco, but they were lead
back to france in 1648. Then there Is Tur-
bia with its huge Roman tower, now nothing
but shell, but the remains OF Tropaea Au-
gust, erected to commemorate the subjuga-
tion Of the Ligarian tribes twelve years after
Christ. Here we could see the entire, wild
coast from Venlimiglia, the
frontier town of Italy, to Brodighera which
projects far out into the sea, with its date
palm orchards interspersed in the fore
ground But the fruit seldom ripens suffi-
GENTLY to eat, neither are the oranges and
lemons of this section of the best quality for
eating. The oranges, l believe, are used to
make the better Scotch marnalade so much
eaten here. But some fine mandarius which
are said to grow here are often served with
our desert for dinner.
Cannes, though not properly belonging to
to the Riviera, Is on the Mediterranean and
is much like these other cities In every re-
spect.
1t is situated on Gulf de Ia Napoule and
the view of the surrounding harb0rs, is very
The town lies at the foot of
Mt. Chevalier, but the most Of its lovely vii
las are situated high up above the business
portion of the city. We visited the grounds
of the villa in which the Duke Of Albany
died, which is now owned by Queen Victo-
ria like the rest it occupied fine COM
manding eminence, with monument to the
Duke Of Albany in the foreground. The
drives about Cannes are very delightful,
from one of which we could see out at little
the Isles of Serins in the harbor.
On Sainte Margperlte, the largest & 9f these Sc
which ''the Man of the Iron Mask"
was kept in close confinement from 1856 to
1893, but which more recently is known as
the Bazaine prison. Marshall BaZaine was
confined here from 26th December, 1878 to
August 9. 1874 when he effected his escape.
Beyond Cannes, the city proper, near Collie
Jouan, a column marks the spot where Ma
pOleOn biVOuacked on the night after he eS-
capped from Elba, on the 1st of March, 1915.
Since | have commenced these few desult-
ory notes at the end, will end them at the
and take in Genoa, the birth place
place of our illustrious discoyerer. Genoa
dates far back to old Roman times and seems
very antiquated and interesting. 1t is much
more Italian in its style then Milan and saw
ors more of Southern Italy. The derivation
of the word is from geau, and it originally
stretching up into the land in the shape of a
knee. Like all these cities it derives much
of its picturesqueness and beauty OF situa-
tion from being built on semi-circular har-
Dor with its chateaux and villas up on the
high embarkments to which have referred
several times before. They are reached by
spiral paths and carriage drives which are
sometimes very pleasant promenades. In
this same way the ascent and descent in rail-
reading is accomplished in the Alps. 1t Is
done by short spiral tunnels, curiously
one section Of the track high above
another several times repeated at
different elevations, while oftentimes
directly, but far below we
could see the place where we entered in
to the bowels of the mountains, and at times
we could see the same little chapel far be-
low, which we had at first passed directly
by, while we were winding and winding
past 1t still, but ever higher up.
Genoa is city of renaissance palaces and
fine old churches. The most Of these pal
aces contain picture galleries, with paintings
many by Rubens and Vandyke, who, at diff
ferent times. both resided here. Some of
the churches are quite sumptuOus, Sen An
nugeata being the richest, with its portals
by marble columns, and containing
frescoes by Garloni. and an altar piece by
affords the finest general survey Of Genoa
and the well peopled coast.
The people of Genoa have a free, careless
and somewhat volatile, though quiet air. The
trucking seems to be done for the most part
on the backs of donkeys, packed high up
three or four times the height of the donkey
and strapped closely round his sides. Ital-
ian peasant girls or women in various CO.'S
tunes walk at their side. 'Tis curious
reminiscence, but one well remembered, no
doubt, by every traveller in Italy. AT one
of the shops | purchased photograph OF
Columbus himself, which don't think was
hard work to find; also got photograph
of the statue erected in honor of him in
Plazzo Acquaverde, in 1862. at the foot Of
the statue kneels the figure OF America, and
it Is surrounded by allegorical ngures repre-
senting religion, geography, strength and
wisdom. Columbus was born 154 miles from
Genoa at the small village of Cogoleto in
1456, and was therefore So years old when he
made his famous voyage of discovery,
But out of all the delightful places which
overlook the sweet, calm Mediterranean, If l
could be good enough when l die. l think,
Nice would be the place to which l should
most prefer to go. Monte Carlo is charming
to stop and see, but for an abiding place
Nice is more satisfactory. The cabmen and
ushers who now fight over the privilege OF
showing the tomb of Gambetta, and Garibal-
dis birth place, would not then be here, and
some supernatural instinct might teach
me then where to find the Marble Cross
Charles ", with Francis l in 1888, as
we'll as the "Pius Column" opposite,
which is there on account of the ''Promulga-
tion Of the Immaculate Conception" We
mortals can now easily find the statue to
General Massena with "Clio" in front, writ