New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-02-19
SILKS.
THE FASHIONS OF THE COMING SEASON
NEW wEAvEs AND BEAUTIFUL coLoRs-coMsrsA-
TONS WITH wOOLLgNs

OF many lands are DOW shown on the counters Of the
shops. Lyons remains the chief manufacturing CEN
tire OF sllken goods probably nlne-tenths OF the So
called India slks in market made at this great
metropolis Of the silk industry. American MANI
aetures have advanced steadily the quality OF their
goods, and nearly all tho plalded striped and plain
surahs and other SILKS extensively used for COM
binations with plain wooen5 from American
looms. Merchants predict gay season, and the
most brilliant changeable silks Of jeweke ustre are
shown to meet the seasons fancy.
Tho excellent tafeta sIlk the even weft and woof
OF which make them the most durable OF sllken
goods known, shown in ombre and changeabs
effects, with tho high lustre known gace and in
demlglaee lustre, In plain and fancy striped and fg
ured patterns. There taneta stripes shot with
brilliant color side by side with more sis stripes
which vary size from wide bands in ribbon effect to
quite narrow lines. Some OF the elegant tafets
silk stripes pointed with threads of satin, each
stripe being outlined with a of tiny satin points
In brilliant contrasting color Plaid taetas shown
in large effective patterns for combination with cash
mere and Henrietta cloths. Dark green tafetas are
pladed in large designs with fne lines pale blush
Nile green and charming made up with DARK
green cashmere. For young, fair girls there are
navy blue silks cross-lined I'm broken pattern with
cardinal lines, which will be used underdress
and garnture with blue wool For older ladies Of
more quiet there black tafetas paided with
lines Of white which make refined looking, stylish
dresses combined with black Henrietta cloth the
soft silk warped camels hair cloths Of summer weight
The plain changeable tafeta and the smaller checks
and stripes arc designed for entire costumes To be
in good taste and meet the requirements Of the sea-
son, silk must be In a large decided pattern OF
pe plaid figure, II it is to DO used in combination
with a different goods.
Watered silks are extensively imported this
There mOlres and MORE antiques the former term
applying to the patterns Of silk where the wstered
effect forms distinct stripes while In MORE antiqus
all over the goods These silks are imported In plain
and in changeable and figured and striped effects
The regular weaves OF watered silk in changeable
effect arc designed be used in combination with
stripes figures, and imported with them, but 1t
Is certain that many elegant silk costumes VIII be
made up without combination, this matter depending
upon tho fancy VI the and her size and style
or face and figure. There are many American women
Of petite, fragile type, who will find the wide stripes
used In combination dresses, which are so becoming
to fine queenly figures, entirely out Of keeping with
! their own faces and forms, and such women VIII
adopt solid costumes which may be suitably trimmed
or draped with Grape, tissues and lace There are
lovely stripes OF MORE and satin in which the Change
able effect is not pronounced. but IS simply used to
give richer tone TO the satin in shadow while 1t IS
| a tribe more visible in the more India pink and
linden green. gobeln blue and cardinal, fade odrose
and Nile green ivory white and canary color, copper
color and beige, OF the combinations used In
these changeable effects. Again, there are combina-
tlOns of satin, fac Franchise and mOire thus an inch
stripe of MORE a iallle ground is surrounded by
broken lines Of satin, and the entire goods IS woven
in rich changcable effect. There are some exceeding
ly rich MORE antiques striped with wide bands Oh
satin wide sashrbbons, which VIII make beau
tinul gowns In combination with plain MORE antique.
These especially lovely In yellOwish tints OF linden
green a charming color for blondes in Aurore or
lawnpink fancillon, dark oldrose, becom-
ing to brunette beaues in alanthus, new golden
hue. There are MORE stripes in shades OF the
same color: MORE antiques striped with palded bands
of many hues, and MORE antiques with great moon
| spots Of contrasting color. There arc also many
fancy pladS Of MORO antique and heavy corded silks,
many OF which are cross barred by lines Of satin.
these may lie used in combination with wool or with
/ silk.
Glaze scnti1ante IS a in SILK Of armure
pattern brilliant and glowing in It's changeable
hues as the rls-tlntcd wing Of the midnight moth.
This silk has of the stiffness Of gros grain In Its
texture but despite It's rich usre it is sort surah
silk Plain peau de soie the novelty of last season.
is again imported; It Is shown in gray shot with
coquelcot red, in hunters green and linden srecn
olive and gold and other combinations.
The ornamental sevedges recorded early In the
son by 1nE TRIBUNE feature of wooden goods,
many Of the new changeabe silks. These
| selvedges usually simple bands varying from two
| 10 and a half inches IN width and In Of the
coors OF the changeable silk; thus a gObeln blue
| satin shot with copper has side bands ornamental
with cardinal is banded with two-lnch selvedge OF
cardinal color. Among white satins tinsel effect
patterns in weeping willow design, outlined In
gold or in silver threads on ivory-white grounds.
Black silks are displayed in the durable and hand
some heavy corded goods In MORE and MORE antique
In satin, surah and other weaves familiar 10 shoppers.
There arc MORE antiques striped with wide lands in
fine lines of satin figured with patterns In which
the watered effect forms figure, and In man. other
designs. Pdeson7 silk similar a satin de Lyons,
but finished alike both sides " LexOn,' which IS
| reau de sole weave on one side and a mascot silk on
the other and " neur de sole dull, rich, single
faced SIX without lustre are all rev Weaes Oh o@cH
| silk Armure silks, which are always popular with
ladies In mourning on account OF their dull, lstreless
finish, are imported des gns varying in size from
those fue small grass seeds to patterns larger
than kernels of few silks with cords as large
ottomanS are shown, and also iew Sros gralhs'
BLACK surahs In dainty stripes and figures are desr-
grounds figured In tiny clusters Of dots or other de-
signs or IN irregular stripes which range from 81 20
upward and make excellent seryceable dresses popu
lar with ladies Of quiet refined taste English D9she,
plaid stripes with surah are used with blacA WOOL
light weight for summer dresses.
FOuar,ls and plain surahs divide the choice In sum
mer silks. The excellent wearing qnaSy OF me
stamped India foulards has made them popular Tor
several seasons for morning ana afternoon dre,s' IN
plain cOOrs they may even BE- Numbered Ala0vet
patterns are pecialy desirable this season There
many designs formed OF succession OF gradnaieu
dots again the Powered stripes OF la POmpadour,
manv pretty irregular designs in leaf and flower
motif. In the d,snctiveiy Persian INDIA patterns
existence from tho Jubilee of the Queen; Pladed
snrahs are exceedingly pretty, durable and nexpen-
bination with woolens for summer wear. The
changeable effects am plain colors and combinations
I'm these goods India silks In great variety of colois
and patterns direct from Eastern workshops are al
as effective I'm costume they are In household dra
perry, as special care given by the native work
men to produce coors which blend tremendously with
fresh tints.
-, T.,.1R T,vfor