Sacramento daily record-union., 1888-11-03
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
FROM THE RECORD. UNIOA $50
OWN CORRESPONDENT.
New Cloaks and Cloakings-Change
and Opportunities in Costumes
Combinations and Colors.
New YoRK, October 20. 1888.

The new shapes In cloaks demand new
and plush is displaced not only
or this reason, but because it has really /
been worn for a long enough time. Beautiful
novelties appear in place of it, chiefly vel
vet, armure, matelasse, brocateile, velou- !
tine "a heavy rep with silk finish, satin,
sicilienne in novel finish, Or peau de suede,
a thick silk without luster. Completion is
given by fur trimmings, among which black
bear with long silky hair is most popular
Long seal-skin garments hold position
among all changes but the elegance of
new cloakings, to say nothing of the un-
suitability Of seal fur to new shapes (such
as the nuns or peasants cloak, described
in a former letter. goes far towards dis
placement. Seal-sl5in, moreover, is 50
heavy as to have brought shakines Of med
ical heads, and garments lined with satin
faced waddiug are warm enough and far
less weightv.
Nevertheless there is a charm in long
seal garment, while young ladies still wear
IL
jackets, than which nothing more jaunty
or better adapted to the slender American
figure has ever been put upon the market.
Stylish Newmarkets, for young ladies, are
made of smooth beaver cloth, in volcano
red, blue, green, gray, fawn or tan, and
trimmed usually with curly black Persian
lamb-skin or iIercu Is braid, the latter a
much less expensive garniure. Jackets
in this style are also popular, and some
raglans Of light material will &c worn by
older people. Evening cloaks, for carriage
wear, are still made of pale or bright-col-
ored plush the rich materials, just intro
duced for day wear, are also repeated in
evening colors and trimmed with llama
fringe or yellowish fox far, while special
distinction attaches TO cloaks made Of very
fine cloth with tinsel interweavings.
NOTIFICATIONS
In the making of costumes are all in favor
of thin figures, at least in regard to cor
sages. The possibilities of blouse waists
are endless for purposes Of initiation broad
sashes tied at the waist-line in front do
away with tell-tale outlines, while Zouave
Jacket fronts above heap Pelion on Ossa,
and complete the friendly and becoming
deception. Full vests are also mighty
| refuge, while as the corsage approaches Sc
verify of cut, accessories only limited by
the dressmaker's imagination are rivaled
by trimmings that are potent for purposes
of stimulation. Nor is the ordeal of tight
| sleeves one through which thin arms must
pass. Completing gathers at the shoulders
impart breadth; down past the elbow goes
a more generous scissors, and high cuff
may serve to set off previous breadth
and bring about proportion. These re-
marks hold good even as to heavy material
while in lightweight fabrics full sleeves
continue in vogue. Skirt draperies chiefly
hang plain and with panel effect, but some
draping and putting being allowed, slender
| beauty may resort thereto and substitute
appearances for reality. 1t is to be hoped
that ladies OF plump figure will draw a
| lesson Of subtraction from the hints Just
given on addition and reading backwards
, US it were, take long step forward in the
art of becoming dress, since, after all, de-
STABILITY must rest on suitability. This
last is the foundation, and if that be wrong
then everything goes amiss.
COMBINATIONS AND CoLoRs.
| Especial room is found moreover for an
exercise of taste in the numerous and sur
prising combinations of the dav As
many as four materials are not unfre-
quently put together, and ingenuity is
strained to bring about harmony in the
most striking diversity of fabric and color.
| Unusual opportunity occurs likewise for
those who study economy, while wishing
to be stylish. Almost anything can be
utilized; small bits of goods can be placed
effectively here or there, and much ac-
count must be made of the fancy for
| black, which in small or large proportion
may give character to the picture causing
| sobriety by free use, or imparting greater
brllliancy by setting of bright colors.
| This matter Of color is indeed an I'M
portant one, and requires study, since hues
! are so blended that a new element of diff
Guilty arises. Purity of tone is
scarce ever seen. Browns are yell
lowish and run into tans; greens
are legion, but casting grayish, yellowish
and brownish tints need care in handling;
blues are toned by gray, or occasionally
throw greenish lights; grays at times are
| hardly grays, SO freely is blue united with
them mahogany, grown deeper or more
| brilliant, bids for favor under the new
names of etrusque or uernis while cardinal
is no more cardinal, but feue, the French
for scarlet bean. Besides, there are new
reds called internal" and red in general
is very popular. But hybrid colors are
scarce ever long-lived They have their
day of peculiar style that passes, and
aware of this fact, economical buyers select
such safe and standard colors as seal brown,
navy blue or dark green. How much may
| be saved by caution on these points, is
known only to such as practice it. Progress
| in modern manufacture is each year also a
factor in domestic thrift in special keep
ing with the subject in hand, being the
substitution Of cotton for silk in dress
| making, no small consideration when much
Is done. This cotton can frequently be
| substituted for formerly used more costly
silk thread. Clark's Mile End cotton, for
example, is SO smooth, strong and elastic
as to form an excellent substitute for silk,
particularly as it comes in all fashionable
colors and is suited to all sewing ma
chimes.
ABOUT FURS.
Sealskin, Of course, holds 4 position now
! standard. Seal fur in natural color and
with slight curl is a novelty, however, and
if successful will be more largely intro
duced next season. In other flrs, popular
fancy tends toward the long haired, and
this must account for the run upon black
bear fur, which leads in moderate priced
varieties. Other fashionable furs are
black, white and gray fox fur, black lynx
and marten, natural and colored beaver,
blue and silver fox fur, Alaska and Hud-
son bay sables-the first position being ac-
corded, OF course, to Russian sable The
newest shape in collars shows deep, sharp
point in the back, with point reaching to
the waist in front. Boas divide favor, and
mufis are for the most part small, with lin
ing well hidden; but as novelty, and a
doubtful one, comes the huge shape OF
thirty years ago, with conspicuous ribbon
bows on either side. Fur trimming is in
great demand and is seen in the above