Morning journal and courier., 1888-01-31
FASHIONS LATEST FADs.

Cofdures, Hall and Bridal EEObes-0p-
 era and Theater TefIets-Tea Gowns
 and House Fr0cks-Nevelttes and
 Accessories ef the Toilet.
 Especial Correspondence of the JOURNAL AND
 CeURIRR.1
 NEW YORK, Jan. 28. To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
 The latest fad in coifures is the Psyche. It is an arrangement that is very trying even to a pretty woman. In fact none but those with classic mould of features can adopt this new coiffure. If any of our readers re- member to have seen a picture of that oele- brated statue of Psyche which Canover made with Pauline Bonapartc for model they will not need to be told how the Psyche coiffure is accomplished, or how it looks. For those who have not seen copy of that matehless piece of marble I will try to describe the Psyche. It is made by drawing all the back hair, with no additions in the way of switch, into tight, compact, pointed knot directly on the back of the head. The apex of the Psyche coiffure, or rather the point of the knot in the back of the head, must be in direct line with the tip of the wesrer's nose. The front hair is cut short and frizzed, curled or waved, or formed into a straight bang at pleasure, or to suit the wearer's style of face.
 It is said that Mrs. Cleveland has adopted this classic coiffure for morning and after noon wear. It becomes her. It. would be difficult to find any style of head dress or bonnet or hat that would not look we'll on such rarely handsome woman as the Presi- dents wife.
 From the other side we have no inferma- tion about any changes in hair dressing. The eoiffure for spring in Paris will be the present modification of the style in which the unfortunate Marie Antoinette wore her blonde tresses. Unbecoming as we thought 1t when it first became the fad of fashion, we have modified it and improved it until it is picturesque and rather becoming coiffure.
 The fall gowns of this season are the pret- tiest and most becoming that have been in vogue in thirty or forty years. No matter what the slip or underskirt, or foundation of the ball gown is, it must be composed for the most part of flmy tulle or crepe, or gauges or lace, or be so draped with these floating, vaporous fabrics as to produce the airy,
 
 waves around the dancers. The ball dress of to day is not unlike those which forty years ago were made of tarlatan and organdie mus lins, and the skirts of which were so dia- phanous that the whole sixteen yards com posing one of them could be drawn through lady's finger ring. But now we have the Glmy tissues in all shades of colors, but par ticularly pale blues, pinks, greens and laven- ders along with terra cotta, mahogany, Luci- fer and violet shades, and cream and milk white. The plain colored or white tulles or crepes make perhaps the lovellest of all ball dresses, but these are often dotted with pearl and oyster beads in tints to match the color of the fabric, while others are shot with threads of tinsel running in lines or wrought into stars, crsscents, flowers, leaves, tenarils, that fairly seem to play hide and seek through the cloudy, filmy meshes of the nets or the gauges. Tinsel forms a part of most ball toilets this winter. The floors of the great ball rooms look like kaleidoscopes of rainbow hues glittering with tinsel and real or mock jewels that gleam like rain and dew drops over the vari-colored cloudy masses of l tulle, gAuze and lace. Flowers and fots of ribbon adorn some of these ball gowns, which by the way are all short or dancing \ length.
 Brides dresses are always trained. They 1 are, or rather they have been until lately, o1 white or cream tinted satin, but there is de parture from this rule now. The bride of the | passing season wears gros grain, faille or peau de soie, and her gown is profusely I draped with lace or tulle, and is trimmed more frequently with motifs, or fringed agraffes of pearls and~white crystal beads, | than with orange buds and blossoms. The bridal wreath of small white roses is also re- vived, and bids fair to displace the time | honored but not becoming orange blossoms and buds. Diamonds loop the brides dra- peries, fasten her veil and are wern on her I neck and bosom, and in her ears-whenever | they can be afforded. But this is a rule as much honored in the breach as in the obser- f vance.
 | Opera toilets are of silk, satin and velvet, peau de soie and lace and crepe; are made V l shaped in the neck and are sufficiently dres- | sy to wear to the ball or dance that frequent. \ ly is the wind up of the evening for the | opera-going belle. The hair is elaborately dressed in high coiffure for opera, balls and evening receptions, and jeweled combs, pins and aigrettes, bows of ribbon and l feather and flower pompons are all in order
 at these entertainments.
 l Tea gowns and house frocks are charming 1 creations of the dressmakers skill at the mo. ment. The new China silks in delicate even 1 ing and cream and white shades, as well as darker colors, are used for the fronts of the | tea gowns and the bodice and upper draper ies or skirts of the house frocks. The backs of the tea gowns and the skirts of the frocks | are of darker silks and moires, and some | times of plush, plain or watered, but moire is the favorite silk of the passing season for combination with crepes, China silks, light
 cashmeres or light cool stuffs of any kind
 Bands of tinsel embroidery on silk in bright shades of cherry, absynthe green,
 baby blue, gobelin blue and Lucifer red are
 used to trim the fronts, the sleeves, pockets
 and form the collars of dressy tea gowns. Gold and silver braid is used to excess on
 the cuffs, collars, waistcoats and pavements of dressy house froeks composed of two fa-