The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-10-06

in delicaey and neatness of finish.
There are always tests Of fashion. At
one time it is length of train at another,
length OF gloves; to-day it is color. The
educated, wealthy woman of to-day fur
nishes her house, sets her table and dresses
herself according to scheme OF color, as
clear and definite as that which Mr.. Irving
carries out in new play, or could have
been seen in the ''model" rooms during the
past summer at the Munich exhibition.
These schemes are not obtrusive, they do
not force themselves upon the attention,
simply because they are SO perfect. IL IS
only harmony, equality of values, careful
toning, proportion. 1t is the want OF this
gentle sense which renders dress conspicu-
Gus, and most perfect when there is moth
ing in it TO remember
But in the meantime it may be taken for
granted that there will be no return to the
violent contrasts of former times, and that
everyone can help the development of
pure taste by not outraging it in their own
persons at the bidding OF some one who,
perhaps, ignorantly calls it fashion. Black
under wear with a black dress has been the
subject Of rather rude remark; but why not
a black silk corset cover over a black satin
corset, and black silk skirt under black
lace dress! They are essential. Black silk
garments have not yet been worn next the
skin, and probably never will be. There is
something repulsive about the idea OF them;
but the upper garments, those OF which the
edges may become visible through, or
against the black dress, may very properly
be black, like the dress.
THE STUDY OF DRESS NEW SCIENCE.
There was time not so many years ago,
when white kid gloves were de riguellr
with all colors of ceremonious dress. Now
they would only be- accepted as part OF the
AL white" of a costume, or as being part
of its scheme OF relief or characterization.
Color study is Just now well worthy the at
tention of women of intelligence, even as
applied to their dress. Why beauty Of
clothing should have ever been put under a
ban is not clear. Probably it is a survival
of the old monastic spirit of self-mortifica-
ton, which has been the foundation of so
much spiritual pride and arrogance. What
ever the cause, it was great pity; for 1t
left dress to fools, and compelled the wise
to accept the cap and bells which folly and
caprice prepared for them.
We are, fortunately emerging from this
condition now. The study Of dress, its pos
sibilities, its complexities, its varieties, its
capacity to give color, beauty and charm
to daily life, are only just beginning to be
understood; and it may be considered GER
tain that these will increase rather than di-
minish. But we shall have to reconstruct
our ideas of fashion; take it out of its par
rot-like stage of noisy imitation and make
it harmonious with ourselves: an expression
of our thoughts, tastes, ideas and affections.
This will give us distinctive fashions; fash
ions individualized, but that will attract
others who are in accord with them, and
who will copy because they Ike them, not
because some one says this particular thing
is fashion" and you cannot fashionably
wear anything else.
With the approach of cold weather, colors
always take on a more positive character.
Beige, grey-green and soft shades Of grey
have prevailed during the summer; with
the autumn they give place to darker,
richer shades. The new" color is a brill
liant yet soft shade of red gold. Golden
brown, in conjunction with old gold, main
tains its place, while the always well worn
greys show the tint, and often tue blending
of tints, in oxydized silver. We know
better now than to put anything 80 deadly
as cold grey and steel together. We use
stronger, more vital grey for the cold
season, and put with it fur or velvet, or
color that carries with it warmth or sun
shine. A touch of red with the dark
green of a costume, or yellow with grey,
brings out all the latent, atmospheric color,
and has an Illuminating effect.
A color used last season, but which will
have still greater vogue this season for
dinner and evening wear, is a lovely shade
of flesh color, a faint, yellowlsh pink, which
is neither salmon nor nasturtium, but sug-
gests both, without being SO positive as
either. 1t is the nearest to real, lovely,
living flesh-which is warm and vital-than
any other in existence; and is only found in
evening silks and i'll silk crepe. 1t is used
for the fronts or sides, sleeves or tops of
dinner dresses under black chantilly lace;
but recently saw an evening dress made
entirely of it, except the drapery, which
was of white silk crepe, enriched with
garniture of softly tinted pink pearls.
This dress was pure Venetian in cut.
Above the square bodice was a full
chemisette of the crepe, with silken collar
wrought and edged with pearls. The
sleeves were close, with inserted puffs Of
crepe, the silk extending through the center
to the top of the arm, thus cutting the
upper puff in two parts aud repeating the
design at the wrists. The skirt hung in
almost straight folds, but opened high on
one side and low on the other, over plait-
ings of white silk crepe laid over white
surah. 1t was altogether a composition Of
extraordinary delicacy and refinement
which could only be appreciated by sight.
MUTATIONS IN HEAD WEAR
II is singular how complete the collapse
is that has taken place in the high hats. All
theater goers and those who pay for their
amusements have reason to be grateful
The round sailor hats took their place dur
ing the summer, and also the large,
picturesque leghorns and lace hats. The
autumn successor is the round hat in dark
straw, trimmed with velvet and cocks
plumes, or the oval felt, indented and boat
Shaped, the tyrol hat with brim upturned,
two or three narrow bands Of galoon for
trimming and one long, slender heron's
feather, fastened by an oxydized dirk pin.
These hats are extremely becoming to
delicate, girlish faces, but not to old or broai
ones These demand a large hat or a
directoire bonnet, which is the alternative
to the touue.
Feathers find rivals in the ribbons this
year, some of which are so handsome and
costly that they must be used alone; and
are simply lowered or concealed by the addi-
ton of anything in the way of ornament.
The newest are a charming mixture of deli
cate colors with gold thread woven into tho
ground work and forming one-half the
width The other half may be cream or
gold faile or velvet. There are others
which show only the brocaded surface with
blended coloring, and Interviewing Of gold;
but the first mentioned are best adapted to
dressy evening bonnets. These ribbons are
used simply IS upright loops; the small
crown is perhaps transparent or shows a
network OF gold over a color; the soft, full
brim is of that color in velvet, chestnut,
dark green orrusset brown; and the fasten-
ing is made q full band and bow of the
velvet, hooked and eyed together, high on
the left side.
TAfIOR-MADE COSTUMES