Milford chronicle. [volume] (Milford, Del.) 1878-1974, 1888-04-06
eauallY thoronrn nlan.

equally thorough plan.
Ny experience for eight years past
in growing fall and winter cabbage,
has been without failure, with one ex-
ceplion. and that was occasioned by
my failure to grow my own plants.
was compelled on this one occasion to
purchase from other parties, and the
plants were young and tender, which
caused them to die under the hot suns.
The first, and most important part, is
to plant good seed grown at the North
from good solid heads; seed of this
quality are large, plump and very dark
colored. plant my seed for late cab
bage as early in the spring as the
ground is in condition TO wOrk-say
from April LIST to 10th, but by the mid
die of April this year will be early
enough. Soon as the plants make
their appearance, run a garden rake
between the rows and over the plants
every day, If the ground is not wet.
Until the plants are large enough to
hoe, this will keep the cabbage flea
from destroying them. When they
are two inches high. do not hoe any
mOre-but keep the weeds and grass
pulled out. The stalk of the plant will
then harden and not run up tall and
slim u complaint that is generally
found with earlygrown cabbage plants.
With this treatment they may be trans
planted at any time from June LIST to
August 1st II may be asked why
don't set all Ofmy plants by the mid
die of June, aud be sure of crop
1 make answer that my farm work
and the difficulty experienced in get
ting intelligent help at such times pre-
vents my so doing. In 1887 set out
plants raised as above about the mid
die of July. which produced heads that
weighed fifteen pounds; but it must
be borne in mind that the season was
wet and particularly favorable to late
set plants. Had the season been dry,
my cabbage would have been worth
less.
In preparing the ground for cabbage,
I spread good stable manure, or in its
absence, 900 pounds of strong ammo
mated phosphate to the acre broadcast;
then pillow twice and as deep as the
soil will allow; work the ground thor
OughIy with the cultivator, and then
mark out four feet each way; then in
addition use 400 pounds of phosphate
to the acre in the hill-which will be
good sized handful to each hill
which should be scattered little when
dropped.
generally set out the bulk of my
late cabbage between the 10th and
goth of June, and cultivate as soon as
the plants begin to grow; continuing
to do so every week, unless the ground
is too wet. The cultiYator should run
down deep. Last gear 1 cultivated
my cabbage five times in four weeks,
and in six weeks from the time they
were set, / cut heads that weighed
five pounds. This patch of 200 plants
was set ON June 18th, and the worms
had not injured the heads while the
under leaves were honey-cOmbed The
secret is in forcing the growth and get
ting the heads started befOrethe worms
have chance to get into them. 1t
may he said that these cabbage headed
too early for winter use; or that when
they become solid they burst and grow
again. Well, what if you do lose one
out of ten for market from this cause
and that is more than 1 would be
willing to lose on that accOunt-fOr, as
1 stated above, give thorough eult;va-
ton when young, and then when the
heads are well formed and out of dam
ger from worms, do not stir the ground
any mole; only keep the grass and
weeds out with the hoe-One spear of
grass in cabbage hill will do more
harm than half dozen worms-and
the heads will not burst. If it is dry
this trouble will not follow, but if it
should be wet fall, rs soon as the
heads are hardened, take a hoe and
cut the roots all around, or partially
pull the cabbage up. This will check
the growth and prevent bursting.
But bursted heads are not lost. My
experience has been, that no crop
grow is as profitable for all stock as
cabbage. feed my horse, COW, hogs
and chickens OH them, and for beep-
ing up the flow of milk in milch cows
after the grass las failed there is moth
ing better. b. f. b. WOODALL.