Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1888-01-14
LAND OF THE GAR.
IMPRESSIONS OF AN AMERICAN
TRAVELLER IN RUSSIA.
The Gates Wide to Those Who En-
ter, But Narrow to Those Who
Would Go Out.

Less is known of Russia, beth inside and
outside the Empire, than of any other
country yet discovered. But great deal
has been written about it and published in
every language. In some countries the
reading people think they know all about
Russia, and have very exalted opinion
of it, while in others the effect of reading
has led the people to despise not only
Russia as a country, but the inhabitants
and all who have to do with governing it.
Most that | read Of Russia in America and
learned in England was apocryphal.
Even the maps misled me- and those who
had visited the country could render little
| assistance in telling me where to begin and
| where to end my journey.
When, few weeks ago in New York,
| determined to visit Russia, and called upon
| some acquaintances for information on the
subject | was to investigate, | was told that
my trip would certainly be one of great
pleasure and supreme delight; that the
stories concerning the despotism in Russia
were false; that | need have no fear OF
| dungeon horrers and Siberia, and that |
should proceed with the same elaboration
and uninterruption | would traverse any
other portion of the continent. At Lon
| don nv English friends looked aghast and
declared that | took my life in my hands
when I entered Russia, and demonstrated
against it. The English know more of the
country, the customs, and the ailes ed laws,
/ find. than the Americans; but being
more excitable and prejudiced, they are
less likely to do justice to the subject. The
English have said and done so much
against Russia that as general rule, they
do not receive the few civilities and privi
leges granted strangers.
After fortnights solourn in the region
of the capital of the empire, l am con-
strained to believe that very little in us
tice could be done the Government were
one to write it all down as diabolical and
bad, for have been unable as yet to dis
cover a single act or design intended to
ameliorate the tyranny and the burdens
the people bear. thought itquite exact
ing to have my passport vised by the Rus
sian Ministry at Washington, or the Con
sui at the point where | entered the coun-
try, before | could see the Russian sol,
when passport, plain and simple, IS re-
quired in no other country man visits In
all Europe; but when | learned that even
the natives of Russia must take out pass
port every year and have it regularly vised
by the local officer before they are exempt
from contempt of the Emperor, concluded
that strangers were quite as well favored
as the Cars own subjects. The object III
requiring natives to have passports is rev.
enue while aliens are put to this trouble
and expense for the purpose of inducing
J them to stay out of Russia. All Russians
must be naturalized if they remain in the
country, and their passports, which cost
them ten rubles a year (about 81 SOY, is
evidence Of their natur alizatlon.
At the frontier the stranger encounters
little in the forms different from other
countries The modes OF inspecting bag
gage and withstanding personal scrutiny dc
not vary greatly from the usual. But as
everything in Russia is distinctly Russian,
and therefore exceedingly strange, the
most experienced traveller is possessed of .
sense of concern, if not fear. The through
trains from Vienna, Berlin, and other pop
: ular points Of departure for Russia, land
one on the frontier at night. The place is
: small, and the station swarms with Rus
sian officers, big, burly fellows, with
2 long, flowing heards, and all dressed in the
most elaborate uniforms. There is cIank.
5 ing of swords, a rafting of spurs, din Of
} voices. and rushing hither and thithel
that is appalling. Timid women travelling
I, alone have become overcome with fear oil
E lost their head in this hustle.
t The gendarme in charge is the first
e officer who approaches the incomer. Thi,
is the highest ranking military official
and he takes up the passports. He is ar
| rayed like a Napoleon broad-toppeC
+ cap of red. white and black dark greer
: frock coat, trimmed with white and declleC
e with brass epauets weighing pounds; ;
5 huge belt and sword, which is hung t.
: strike the ground at every step and rattle
S like musketry; pantaloons with Il deeI
: white stripe and tucked in knee-top boots
n spurs of enormous proportions, and re
volver of sufficient size to gun for buffalo
| The passports and gendarme disappear il
d the direction of the office of the Russian
o Consul, where the documents are exam
e ined.
On the heels of this diplomatic office
come the customs lackeys, who, without
ceremony or invitation, pick up the satch
y els, bags and bundles, excaim in Russian
r Custom-house " and put out. The trav
e eler follows. He finds his trunks already
: on the counters inside the station and i
n they are unlocked they are open and tn,
# contents are being dumped on the floor
The terror of the Russian Government i
/ printed matter Every newspaper, circu
c lar or book found is taken out and sent t.
t the gendarme and the Consul. If any
e thing about free government, free schools
+ or other free institutions, criticism of Rus
: STA or her form of government, is found, i
e is retained and should it appear anon:
d the possibilities that the bearer has an,
Il design upon the Russian way of doins
IS things, he or she is detained for examina
: ton. 1t does not appear in history or ira
n dition that persons detained" have eve
= proven their missions clear. They simply
e have been heard of no more.
n A Londoner who had a couple Of trunk
r displayed his English blood by steppin,
It behind the long counter when his baggage
If was pulled out of the wire cage, where
e stays till opened, and beginning to unlocl
J. it. The officers snatched the keys fron
V the travellers hands and pushed him bac
V in line with others. When the trunk
d were opened, the Englishman paid for hi
forwardness by seeing his goods dumpe
Is out on the floor and everything mussed an
n left for him to care for There was n
IT complaint. To complain means to detair
e for the Russian officers are as suspicious a
$ they are officious All stand in together
II and they have such unlinited license tina
Is one is at their mercy.
II tried to anticipate the officers as niue
se as possible, and, having left my trunk i
y, Paris eagerly opened my satchels. Th
lie pockets of my garments were turned il
re side out, letters were squeezed, travelin
lie cap ditto, and socks, which were turned i
n together, were pulled out and looked int
=; Here | encountered money-changei
ID who were evidently direct lineal descend
e ants of those who were cast out of the ten
al pie. | had seen money-changers at othe
frontier places, but none like these n
sooner had | emerged from the custom.
room to the adjoining restaurant for GU
of of the famous Russia tea than the brac
At of money-changers approached me. Bot
- about six feet in hight, they wor
al black robes which came to their fee
II and black crowns, giving them a
ecclesiastical onnparaoca Zine u-aS r,rol