New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-01-08
THE COMING FASHIONS.
MATERIALS FOR SPRING WEAR.

for carly spring Henrieta cloths IN silk ana wool
1 Atwood ohuddahs camels hairs and Scotch chevots
Of silken ousty and feather weight. These warm
enough for the coolest spring days, though much light
or in weight than tho winter goods now worn They
displayed in great variety Of mixed c0los Of tho
neutral unts called beige effects and also In W
rety Of plain coors and fancy plaid and crossbr pat
terms. There many shades Of copper color In
brown and in red tones. Sevres blue colors range
from pale bluo, less gray than cadet blue to dark
shade as deep In color navy blue.
Spanish leather colors in shades dark
tque leather AMI shade to pale Suede nts There
many neutral colors In plain goods and the beigo
mixtures which promise to 10 popular for ordinary
morning wear. These fabrics shown in blue slate
gays and ashes ofroses cClors In girls fins
ish lchen drabs, svery grays and dark lead colors
Among the plain Henrietta cloths which will. without
any doubt, DO as popular as the cashmere Of dozen
ago, there all shades Of dark street colors
and variety Of fine evening tIns for watering place
costumes etc.
Mixtures Of silk and wool and silk hnIshod' goods
in wool and cotton the noteworthy feature Of the
coming spring high glace finish Is given to
tho wool Henrietta cloths by passing them over hot
rollers aside from this high finish tho Honrstta cloth
differs only from tho cashmere by being frmor and
moro closely woven with loss pcrceptible twill To
Chuddah cloths given the popular sken effects BY
combining tho plain wool with goods striped by hair
gray-or with stripes crossbars Of poplin in . mod
10y Of faded tapestry hues frightened BY harlnes Of
silk floss In metallic coors Chartreuse green Gobelin
blues, old rose, salmon pink, and pale Sovres blues
mingled with neutral tnts in these stripes and
plads yet tho whole effect is subdued rather than
| bizarre in tone.
wooLLENs WITH ORNAMENTAL syLvEDoEs.
A now thing in Chuddahs and other woollens Is
wide fancy SEW dge which IS intended to be displayed
| as feature OF tho gown Worth introduced this In
novatiOn last season. boldly displaying gay sevedgo
In tho draperes and other parts Of his silk Co.'S
| tunes The selvcdges imported Chuddahs arc
bands from two three inches wide of broken stripes
eighth Of an-inch lines in shades barmonzing
with the main goods, or in contrasting colors The
fashion plates thus far imported show gowns with
fancy selvedges made up in combinations OF hair lines
and plain colors beige mixture with no extraneOus
garnture. The sevedge is never applied except pos
sbly to form the collar cuff but IS allowed to ap
pear in vertical lines wherever II naturally would, by
tho cut Of the dress 1t is seen at the side Of the
skirt Of the straight Directore polonase at the side
Of the vest, and In other parts of the gown In tho
case of a combination Of hairnos and plain fabric In
several of color the darker color is tho striped
fabric and this is laid in largo pleats crosswse Of
goods to form the unerskrt allowing the sevedge to
appear a border to this kilt skirt Again, the I'M
dersnrt is Of solid striped goods matching tho fancy
selvedgo which appears parts Of the rest Of the
costume. Tho new polOnaises shown for spring are
quito similar in their straight lines and effects
to tho DrecoIre coats Of several ago. There
Is drapery the skirt of the poonase falls In classic
lines, but bOuffant appearance is given to the
tune by the dress improver" beneath, which
the place of the extraneOus drapery recently
for the same effect Tho high straight collar Of
these poonalses and the sleeves moulded
to the similar to those features Red
ferns gowns last There some poonaises
shown in the familiar Marguerite shape parted in 'front.'
to display the underskirt and simply draped at the
back, tho fuhess being held in pleats or in clusters
of shirrng the tournure. There arc many apron
draperies but these all long and caught up in
plcats at tho wastlne, whence they hang In severely
classic Sappho folds which ranged with artistic
precision like draperes in the pictures Of Alma
Tadema
SCOTCH CHEvIOTs.
These serviceable woOllens are always I'm demand
for early spring morning dresses, which made in
simple styles without combinations. They arc shown
| In what known natural wool shades, such as
| delicate mixtures Of fawn and white pearl and
white and while they retain the rough appearance al
ways characteristic Of chovot goods, they soft
to the touch II they woven of raw silk They
imported in plain mixtures. in mixed grounds with
fine cross bars of irdescent largo broken
plaids of many coors on beige background. Nail
heads of bright color in patterns soem to hold
down tho paids tho intesectng points Of tho lines
In other these dots irregularly scattered
about on the plaid. There many mixtures in
old tones in Gobelin blue, slate gray and other
coors
Chcviots in cool natural gray aud fawn in fine
herring bone pattern always in demand by refined
Of conservative taste. Mixtures in black and
white shepherds checks and bars promise to 10
In special demand thore IS always a largo quantity of
such goods sold In Ncw-YOrk to ladies who taking
off mourning and to many who cOnfne their morning
streotdres to sOmo combination of black. white e.
| gray.
| SPRING cOTTONs.
Tho now zephyr gnghams imported thus early to be
| made up for summer during the quiet Of Lent and
| early spring the merchants counters, and
elegant and costly than any colored cottons
previously Many Of them in lace
stripes and all-over lace patterns. These gng-
hams soft and fne as taffe silk, and closely
| simulate In the finer qualities a silken fabric The
old checked and barred patterns are reserved fpr sim
pie dresses. Fine checks In black and white, pure
indigo blue and white azure and white, and gray and
| white, always In demand for summer morning
dress with trimming Of white embroidery The lace
striped and figured gnghams seldom in these
conventional patterns They shown in all colOrs,
In stripes OF various szes and plain goods for
blnatons for costumes Of stripes of two widths or
fancy Of the wsarer or often the fancy Of the
drcssmaker decides this matter The colors OF these
zephyr cottons more bewitching than thoy
are this Exquisite rose tnts copied from the
lovely pinks In old Nielsen china, and pale tur-
quose blues are shown in stripes of two delicate tones
| OF tho same color, but slightly paler than the
other AMI these stripes placed sde by side with
band Of creamy lace or stripe in the ocru
| twist OF unbleached cotton. Two shades OF silver
gray arc thus used side by stdo. In zephyrs an
allover" pattern of lace forms arabesque design
the stripes These dainty patterns come in pink,
cream white and blue Tho third color sometimes Is
Introduced a ball pattern figuring the stripe. Thus
| there are nch-stripes in cream and white with the
cream strlpe dotted with blue. The most costly
zephys arc in rich. effective plaids of blocks
and delicate hues Of color tn" cream ground figured
with single tiny RAIN leaf in india coors which look,
| as II It were embroidered on the goods. There
| other zephyrs with raised figures OF crescents
within the other, which look like figures Of plush ON a
| silk ground.
Plain zephyr Bingham in checks cost 25 cents to 40
| cents lace-strped and fancy patterns 40 cents to
| 81 o5 Satnes longer shown In tho flower pat
terns so popular few seasons ago. but In stripes,
checks and IN great variety o. conventional designs