Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-03-03

The black touches upon dress, which Worth Is
black hats and bonnets, especially with the new
shades OF green In suits and costumes. Black chip
hats are taking shs place Of the large velvet hats
feature during the winter. while black lace, with
velvet for trimming, or as q mixture, has never
oonnets appear. made OF black esprit (fine-dotted,
net, which cover and is blended with q color
celery green, canary yellow, shen pink, grey,
trope and is lovely with black.
or course, the trimming Is In delicate shades OF
the color. and consists Of ribbon and flowers
tard, cress, lilies OF the valley and the like.
THE HOUSE, JACKET
has become an established fact, which deserves
more than passing mention. Its convenience not
only renders It acceptable, 1t has given It perma-
hence. In different shapes and forms 1t has been
factor for the past ten years, and less definitely
for many years before that; and 1t also enters
largely into the national dress OF women OF other
countries, from whom we have borrowed ideas to
The present most popular styles are the s.Nor-
folk [plaited waist) and the habit basque, and
almost universal; as much used by questionable
the rich The Norfolk jacket is derived r Ms a.
from fishing and working people. 1t was first
used for seaside and travelling dresses It is used
for these purposes STILL but also for many others
all kinds Of serviceable dress. It is now made in.
dependently and sold at womens furnishing stores,
and is, perhaps, the most useful of all forms Of
except the Richest and to outdoor as well as indoor
wear
Very stout figures should avoid it, but all young
and moderately slender girls and women rejoice
In It, 1t is boon 10 the schoOl-teacher as well as
the school girl to excursiOnists to tourists and IL
as wen worn at the watering place as in the farm
a trim wrap as well as bodice and serves to hold
handkerchief, closed fan, change purse or any
little implements work or pleasure may require.
coors or dark, It Is equally at home; the cut upon
the shoulder the Mt under the arms and the finish
making the most important difference between
OF material.
But the Norfolk jacket IS always informal and
young. The habit basque Is more ceremoniouS
and suits older and stouter women though 1t
may also be worn by the young and slender. Like
the Norfolk jacket, 1t is made en- suite and also
independently, but It is suited to richer materi ais
and can be made more elegant by the smoOthness
OF the nj, the Introduction OF the lace or crepe
ns Srsaq s Of beading
jacket; Velvet, plush; satin, corded wool,
or ss sm a hreo IN blended
A good deal depends upon color to impart dis
tnction when the fabric Is not rich. AS for ex-
ample, choose for wool golden brown, currant
red or oldgold shade; the positive effect OF color
gives character TO wool materials.
1t is little curious that more effort is not made
jackets. Jerseys can be obtained In great variety
but only well-rounded ana finely formed figures
can wear the jersey and while there are excellent
reasons for not making up basques as general
stock. which need TO be ttted, there are many
kinds OF gathered and plated waists, which in two
or three Sizes would ft everybody are easily made
and could be sold at moderate prices.
NEW IDEAS
1t Is easy to calculate, nowadays, upon the fu.
ture and anticipate the season, especially those OF
spring and summer, because so many of the best
and standard fabrics reappear year after year
and the changes are simply matters Of detail,
hardly recognizable except by those who closely
duction. the plain and mixed wool for suits. the
Scotch zephyr ginghams, the China silks and pom
gees, the linen lawns, the printed India silks,
lengths, the printed cOttons and white worked
cambrtcs, all these, together with the plain black
SILKS, surahs, black and colored, printed wool de-
as "Bengaline," and the family of mohairs, beige,
alpaca and the like are as gularly put forth as
spring leaves and blossoms and they meet every
real want. The changes in them are, as before
remarked, mere matters Of detail.
This year the new spring woods show very large
checks and plaids; many Of them impossible to
broidered and open-worked effects The China
silks, very quaint designs and Old colors yellows
and browns, old rose, green and black, white and
China blue, In patterns which seem to have been
copied from old wares and vases. The "challles'
repeat the designs which had such a success in
CHtcSc CiOtu ldSI anu Ine DeDyallDe,
which is fine mixture OF silk and wool, appears
in modest checks and dainty colors, with a little
stripe. The newest surah5 show squares In two
golden brown, grey, stone color and others, includ
ing very pretty petunia shade. The squares are
marked on by almost invisible lines OF contrasting
color; pale blue and olive rose pink dark green,
white on lighter green or grey and yellow on
golden brown. This color reappears as lining to
tue Interior edge OF the basque and other parts OF
the costume and as small, folded and pointed vest
Plain silks and surabs are made up with pinked-
out edges, the contrasting color put between, a
revival or the pretty fiower-like effects OF some
years ago; but tue draperies are longer, more
graceful now than they were then, and the cut
follows more naturally the lines OF the form.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There is great deal OF black used this season.
and particularly very new combinations OF black
as trimming upon color. Black ribbon bows and
sashes are put upon pink, green, and Gobslin blue
cotton dresses OF fine gingham or chambray, and
with large hat of black chip, with a spray or
bunch OF flowers at the side repeating the cOlorS
look really distinguished.
Black MORE Is the fashionable combination with
grenadne and fine wool, and It is very effective,
particularly when enhanced by showers OF cut let
in all the best Jetted trimmings the beads are now
sewn on by hand, SO that there Is no danger OF
leaving trail OF them everywhere and shortly
finding them only conspicuous by absence. The
cost OF course greater, but the satisfaction is
simple mounting or for basque and skirt the gren-
adine for drapery, and the jetted lace or passe-
menterie for panel. vest, and trimming. The
jet or mas pointed insertions OF MORE and shoulder
drapery OF grenadine trimmed With Jet or Jet and
loops OF ribbon.
Loops and straps of narrow ribbon or ribbon
gotOon are a favoriue mode OF Ornamenting plain
black or coored WOOL They are put e.. niilitaue
down the front OF the basque at the sides OF the
lapel, at the back, and TO form cuts and panel
IL Is not a new way OF trimming, but IL Is always
very neat and attractive way, and II enriches
cashmeres, camels hair and other plain materials,
at ONLY the cost OF q little trOlDle mr.
expended on silk 9dioon and the fiat, self-cOlOred
buttons which articulate the loops Is hardly
enough TO be considered.
Spring dresses IN plain or mixed WOOL not fine
but all wool, well draped and fairly well made are
marked at some stores at an average OF SlS This
Is reasonable price, yet affords q margin for
In the shops, but embroidereS are now executed
In such lovely patterns in such profusion and are
sold at.such low prices that, in different degrees
and qualities, they are bound to be popular with
all classes. Poor women do not, 1t Is true Indulge
In them very much upon their own account, but
they contrive one or more for the children, while
young ladies' and all who do not stand In fear of
washing bills are fascinated by their freshness.
White cloth and gold, which was the acme of
elegance last year, Is superseded by charming
shades OF grey or green, embroidered with narrow
silver or oxydized silver braid. The colors are very
refined, and the hats are made to match, in sailor
style, with deep projecting front brim: The braid
and inserted as panel, vest and the like, between
pfnked out edges OF the cloth.
THE GREAT NOVELTY
in linens has not yet appeared in the shops upon
this side, but it doubtless will shortly. II consists
of reversible fax linens, smooth and silky as satin.
which are white on one side and china blue, terra
Gotta or Old gold on the o,her No trimming is re-
CURED Tor these tie cOlOred side or the white side
II color In body is preferred, serving for mounting
and suggesting Infinite possibilities for sailor suits
In steel TRIMMINGS a new discovery has been
made which may not produce any very general or