Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-09-01

olVidual influences In modern fashion have come
rom the stage, represented by Ellen Terry In
England and Madame Sarah Bernhardt In France
vii last tSe sn ssrry Is she more psrvasvs and
mNut Is the more striking and pronounced, Great
,ns immediate and violent excitement, which
Id as strong reaction To Miss Ellen Terry
we oye the graceful forms which have succeeded
s src olnened up draperies and dolly Warden
SYKES The long lines, the straight redngote OF
PICTURESQUE sleeves Not that she has been
uilecliy responsible for each new pattern, or for
one varlflons from these ideas; but that her
costumes AVE represented the general prin-
eIples and have formed an admirable con-
Siaob 70 tIe usual conventions and caprfceS-
her gown Of od LOTT lSTgef br .aas mas m, seen
chaht OF venice" Tine design was at once adopted;
not generally, bat for certain stately purposes,
formal dinners AID the ike, by some ladies OF In
telligence and cultivated taste; and remains, not
as sensation but an intregal OF the permanent
repertoire OF beautiful dress. Stuns have been
manufactured expressly for its production and the
Bendres' brocades, thick soft, rich, with wonder
fuI lights, shades and tones OF color, are worthy
in slow and stately esors The
minds eye, and form the strongest possible con-
trast TO the fantastic figures modelled after Sarah
coats and embroidered waistcoats OF the Louis
Fourteenth and Sixteenth periods
VELVET SEASON.
1t Is said abroad that this will be a "yelyetr
season aud that the trimming Will be rich en-
broideries. and passementeries for velvet and fol
cloth; but have seen some very rich eabroideries
upon cloth and some magnificent long, cloth
cloaks embroidered down the sides OF the "dyr
fronts the plated front formed OF thick rhalames
and The lining satin, with an fnterlining OF soft
wool These cloaks are very practical. Instead OF
embroidery the trimming may be fur or braid and
the lining canton lianne, fur side out
Many OF the new cloakS simulate q dress and
mantle. They are cut with a skirt and long
pointed sleeves, or shoulder pieces that form long
sleeves. They are fitted IN at the back and are
material Inf a n
basque finish. Some OF these are OF velvet and are
very rich, the trimming looking like solid masses
or gold or gold and silk cord embroidery.
The new autumn jacket is the "Tosca" The
frohtS are straight, but 1t is open at the throat
and finished with an outstanding collar and rerers
which are a contrast in color or material The
body part Is or clotn the rerers OF satin rhadameS
ana this also lines the collar. Satin rhadaineS ii
may be as well 10 state Is satin with dull twilied
finish. Il Is always az silk, and Is rich looking
but not glossy.
Fine scotch tweeds for suits and Jackets. for.
merry 81 and sl.2o per yard. have been sold for a
song this season, India camels' hair and the fine
cashmereS, sergeS, and smooth cloths being in the
ascendant. IL has given mothers a fine oppOr.
tanily, however, Tor providing useful outfits at
The toque is to take the place of the capote this
season. IL Is especially used TO accompany The
OF velvet Trimmed with fur. Feather toques Will
also nnd place. Velvet bonnets take the toque
form, but tue velvet is laid ia folds; irregular and
above The soft front rich atgretteS are posed ol
embroidered leaves are placed. The Directoire
Drlns assume more and more the appearance OF
the spatula, but are curiously becoming to some
delicate faces. very soft and lightweight India
caineis-halr cloth Is used Tor bonnetS, Is laid IN
folds, and often richly embroidered Great loops
OF rich, embroidered ribbon OF gold lace are sci
straight up from front OF the crown, the formeI
upon cloth, the latter upon velvet and are sum.
Client and very effective, requiring neither the adj.
uitioh oi feathers or flowers. JENNY JUNE.
Some Pecnliarisies of Literary Women.
Joseph W. Gavan in the Journalist.
IL has been Outlines said, and the saying has
gone uncontradicted that the great majority Of OuI
literary women acquire that valuable acquisition
talent" at the price OF feminine charm. TheiI
passiveness on this particular point makes the
story all the more worthy OF credence. II these
remarks are In any way applicable to the great
army OF prose and fiction writer's, they are far
more closely allied In their signincation 10 the
chosen Few who invoke the muses. aid. or these New
YORK city and state claim the largest number; but
OF tnelr 1dioSyncraSieS IL can also lay first claim
with especial pride. Many Of them are not
unattractive, and not few are gifted with rare
personal charm. But 1t does not REQUIRE a
mcroScOpical survey OF their garb, headgear and
other articles OF feminine wardrobe TO behold the
utter lack OF care bestowed on this branch OF mil
nnery. Can IL be possible that they neglect all
seif-attentfon In the exuberance OF their imagina-
ton, or that other causes are not found wanting?
know not OF one literary woman throughout the
length and breadth OF this continent whose attire
ana general makeup IS not something more or less
reject on their originality and ingenuity. Take
for instance, Mrs. Ella Wheeler Wilcox She Is a
lair representation OF the class OF which write:
Is pretty courteous and charitable to fault, and,
though gifted with great deal OF social acumen
and lore still her manner and style dress is as
unoecoming as IL Is groteSque. Not that she is ad-
verse TO appearing TO her best advantage in public
for several OF her friends me that 10 attain
this end Is the aabSorbing ambition OF her life But
IL either arises in each Instance from UNIQUE and
perhaps clrcuInSpect opinion, the product OF an
abnormal brain, In turn the victim or genius the
noDleSt OF natures laws; for IL has been asserted
Oy eminent medical experts that productions from
the pen OF female possessed OF real genius are not
and cannot be the outcome OF a healthy brain. The
homes OF many OF our literary women strongly
point IN favor OF this assumption; but when the
question OF prevailing style most in usage is con-
sidered II Will be found that our literary female
friends are far below the average shop girl am
many beneath the plane Of others In humber
spheres or life. wonderful Inconsistency Isn't Ii?
Lord LOrne ON American Institutions,
From the September Forum.
To foreigners, the great nation which Is the pre-
dominating power IN the New World offers a
spectacle OF admiration and envy. She is not
obliged, through fear OF her position being low
cred, TO place tremendous tax on the wage
earning power OF her people, by the obligation OF
military or naval service With the mass nj ey