Wichita eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1886-1890, 1888-09-05
HOW SHOES ARE MADE
The Oidtilne Method Abandcned-Work
Done by the Machine.

Done by the Machine.
Nearly all the shoes manufactured at
the present time are constructed by ma
chinery. As in other mechanical indus
tries, the oldtime method. by which each
workman put together boot from the
cutting of the sole to the stitching Of the
upper leather, has been abandoned for
the system that gives to every person
employed some small part only Of the
task to be performed. Perchance it will
not be uninteresting to review in detail
the process by which pair Of mems foot
coverings is evolved from the original
leather The material employed may be
calfskin, buff leather, grain or split.
Buff leather is ordinary cowskin, with
the rough outside ground off it By a buff
ing wheel. Frequently the hide is sliced
with knife into two layers, the outer
one next to the hair being called the
grain and the inner one the split. The
latter makes an excellent quality of
leather, while the former has the great
advantage of being waterproof. In any
case, however, the first operation neces-
sary is the tanning. This is simple, and
is performed by suspending the skins,
just as they come from the animal, in
watts filled with hot surlach liquor or
henlock bark. For eight days or less
they are left to soak. and then are taken
out. washed and dried in the sun, or
under cover with revolving fans. Finally
they are carefully blacked-for ordinary
use at any rate. In this condition they
are brought to the factory, in big bum
dies, and now the process begins.
First, the operator in the cutting room
places the thickest Of cowhides-pre-
viously chopped into long stripes, of a
width just equal to the length Of the shoe
desired-on a table beneath steel die,
which descends at brief intervals and
cuts out series of perfect soles, as tho
material is showed along by the practiced
hand of the workman. Another man
chops out in like manner the various
pieces for the upper" using for this
purpose dies that are manipulated by
hand, with mallets to strike them with.
But all really fine goods are cut out by
hand entirely, the expert employing
brass edged patterns around which he
runs a keen knife blade. The upper is
almost invariably in three pieces instead
of six, as formerly. In this scrappy
condition the upper OF the contemplated
boot is sent to the stitching department,
where it is put together by girls with
sewing machines of massive construc-
ton, especially adapted to this sort of
work. The making of buttons and but
tOnholes, lining, ETC., all comes under
the head of stitching. This performed,
the shoe that is to be goes to the laster,
whose part of the task is perhaps more
important to its success than that allotted
to any one else.
In big factories the lasting is done by a
"team" of men. No. takes the wooden
last and tacks the insole upon it, passing
it over thereupon to No. 2, who stretches
the upper over the last and tacks it so as
to hold. No. lays the outer sole over
the insole, and secures it with lasting
tacks. The shoe, thus fixed temporarily
in shape, is next sewn together by ma
chine. and the sole is finally attached
with pegs or screws. 1t is a wonderful
thing to see the mechanical contrivance
devised for this purpose go over the bot
tom of a boot with an endless wire screw
in its jaws, putting in metallic pegs
wherever needed, never too long and
never too short, until one shoe is COM
pleted and thrown aside for another, the
whole operation being gone through from
to end automatically. Now
the job is taken up by the heller, who
affixes the heel already prepared by a
single stroke of machine hammer,
while knife is whirled around almost
simultaneously and cuts the new attach
ment clearly to the proper shape. This
done. the product, now nearly finished,
goes to person who blacks the edges of
the sole and heel. The final touches are
added by an artist who Furnishes these
same parts with an oscillating wheel, and
the shoes are ready for market.
Such is the process by which nearly all
the shoes made in New England are
turned out. 1t is a curious fact, by the
way, that tho shoes made for selling in
this part of the country have much lower
inSteps than those sent to the south; peo-
pie here possessing feet but slightly
symptom Of physical degener-
alton, it is said. The manufacturer is
obliged, in fact to produce boot Of
special shape for every small section Of
the country supplied by him, and it is
quite the usual thing to send around
agents to the retailers to secure the
of the local pedal extremi-
ties in such and such a township, from
which general average is figured out
and lasts designed neutrality-suspicious.
Cor. Chicago Tribune.