The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-05-05


son, notwllarding the fact that she does
not think anything but herself aud her
WITNESSES. he Vpuld not and could not be
Flora if Shut hr own, white hand to the
wheel andre I'll burdens of most of us.
II CHoIE OF BONNET.
have a thathe large body of intelli-
gent won find loften difficult to obtain
models, .rticulay Illustrated designs.
which tn can coy in materials suited to
their net. This especially true in mil
linery. ivate irbortations this season
are fullpf novel suggestions and very
coquetti. Strawsre OF colors; the brims
| turn strght up frol the front, and on the
left side fixed a hw of ribbon, CORE
spondin to that With trims the exterior,
| and WIN now startsrom the back, but is
! mountehigh, so as tshow from the front.
! There re Chartree green and black
| straws canary, woobrown and a rasp-
berry tat lined with olive. Black straw
hats arlined with wtestraw and trimmed
with pppies and blat picot ribbon, one
half 0 the width cered with lovely
moder imitation of I'd lace.
Besies the straws, ere are transparent
materlls and trimmings which combine
color-varied and BEAUTIFULLY blended
with tnsel threads, fin and untarnishable.
1HtSGlI6 N6I1 lar superior w
the spngle and glitteHhe silyered leaves
and rumpery gildingwhich have been
part f the semi-annuahisplay of bonnets
and lonhet trimmings, 1t is the combina-
ton Of gold, silver orteel threads with
silk threads in white, blk and the delicate
analne colors. These issues and trim
mirgs are very exEInse. They are not
yetcopled into cheap irIations (Which will
be worthless, because squickly discolored)
ami are very expensiv Only those can
afford them, who are bt obliged to con-
siier cost, or who are fpert enough to be
their own milliners, al can therefore put
the money into mateAls instead of max
ing.
The new shapes al as striking as the
color combinations AT trimmings. There
IS the three cornered 1t of the Directoire
period, there is the iaint cottage shape,
with eaves-like brim here is the brim that
turns up like an upyht spatula, and the
one that projects liktne shOvel-shaped hat
of tho Spanish priestf the fourteenth CEN
fury. All these ar picturesque, but not
suitable for the out, young, or middle
aged woman, who ens her living, and is
looked at askance ifler costume has not a
certain air of conventional soberness. For
these there is only u old choice between
which little poke i'm has been added the
past two years, andvhich is varied by
very moderate raise brim, squeezed into a
sort of funnel shah and the cottage"
form, without It's lore recent features.
The one new idea thy can adopt is to trim
their hats and bchetS from the back
instead of the front This may seem like a
small thing, but it a very important point
to remember
Last year the ribon loops, aigrettes, and
other features of 10 ornameutation were
mounted high in bnt, as it had been the
case the previous ear; but this season, the
back movement, hich began last autumn,
is decided, and abonnet or hat trimmed
from the front lo.xs old. The loops OF rib
bon start from aoft knot below the crown
and are longer tin ever, necessarily wired
TO keep them in Eace and arranged so that
they are well in pw in the front, but do
not fill the hollovbetween brim and crown,
Is formerly. Tbs may be occupied by a
few carnations r nasturtiums, the stems
,arelessly tied ad lad as if ready to be
picked up from their resting place. The
Teiling of the fiwers with lace is discontin-
led. Flowers re used more naturally, not
n stiff forms, ut with long natural stems,
md somo bonnts have crowns entirely COM
'osed of these tnterlaced stems, while the
rims are formed of the flowers themselves.
IMPROVED sRING AND SUMMER sTUFFs
or seryiceahs wear are a point In the
'orking woran's favor. MOhairs have
)st their hahneSs and have become soft
nd supple; liable to spot and cookie" if
xposed to veather, but lovely in combina-
on with six surah for vest or crepe de
'hine, whidl, in the cream tints and crossed
raped line, looks like 'wrinkled" milk and
'nds itselfso easily to pretty and becom-
lg toucha.
The new silver and steel passementeries
'ok well upon the pure shades of grey in
10 fabrics but if these are too costly, folds
surah or the combination of yellow or
'eam in crepe de Chine, make charming
nish. Qrite a new ideo in alpaca or mo-
air is thevariety given to the shades Of
rey, pigeons wing, blue grey, "Marseilles
is a very light, grey blue
Id the darker slate and smoke shades. Into
me of these are woven, for combination,
hite tendrils and twig-like borderings with
tile tufts like snow blossoms upon them:
It laid upon the surface, as figures were
but like tapestry figures, woven
to the ground work and thus forming
ore artistic and less conspicuous contrasts
color. These figured and striped designs
@ for panels, vests and mounting generally,
I'd they lift the old alpaca quite out of its
dness and dreariness into the light of
odern life.
One must always beware for service,
,wever, Of a mixed material. That was
Q fault of the old poplin; and it is not
Iely they have changed their nature under
e new name of Bengaline. One fiber be-
g different from another, they are differ
lily acted upon by cleaning or exposure TO
and one part shrinks away from
g other, or loses its nerve and suffers col
pse
The all woods, now graded in every variety
texture and produced in every delicate
1t and color, as well as in black and white,
Q always and must remain an invaluable
source for pretty, useful and inexpensive
stumes. In canvas, delaine or "challie"
it is now called, or the finer nuns yelling,
9 selvedge finish has been improved in
me instances by adding narrow. self
lored stripes, which make an inconspicu-
S border and greatly facilitate the max
Cup process, particularly the arrange
ent of drapery.
These summer woollens can be bought
om 25c up to 81 per yard, and with
rrow plating and mounting of silk,
AXE pretty dresses, Which look well upon
Y occasion and last more than one season.
black and dark colors they serve for
ery-day street wear; in Lighter tints, for
jes and garden parties, while i'll figures on
cream ground, front Of soft silk in deli
te pink or blue transforms the somewhat
mmon looking material into a suitable
sue for tea gown.
The finer aud moro costly woollen mater
., such as calnel's hair and cashmere, are
ore effectively made up with watered silk
MORE antique. Much of the silk is not
luired, but little of it elriches and
ieves the monotopy of plain wool. Former
tho sLfit.t was made of the richer fabric