The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-09-01
/ HOME AND ABROAD.
EOS MO POLITAN ASPECTS OF
AMERICAN WOMEN'S ATTIRE.


CAss distinctions in European Dress
The influence of Natlonality-Ger-
nan Excellence in Color and En-
broifery-Woman's Business Control
in france-Individuality of English
Wonen's Dress-British Soliditv and
orighaiity-The influence of Travel
Upol Questions of Feshion-Running
the GAUNTLET of the Custom House
The coming Velvet Season.
NEWYoRK, Aug. 31.-American women
are accustomed to being called the best
dresseo women in the world; and in a GER
tain way and to certain extent. this is
correct. They have more money and more
leisure than the women of any other coun-
try in the world, more freedom in the use
Of 10th, and not being so much hampered
by circumstances and traditions, they can
drew from all sources and collect in the
suntotal of their dress something of all
otter women's best.
Ii other countrieS-though there is no
longer In society" the distinction and
division created by purely national costume
there are diff erances quite perceptible to
trained eyes, which show both the influence
of temperament and the controlling nature
of circumstances. The German women. for
example, have an exquisite perception of
color. They excel in color combination.
They produce the loveliest embroidery in
coors upon lin ems and other fabrics for
household uses; but they do not put it into
their dress; that is, there is nothing of it
seen in the ordinary dress of the masses.
There are two reasons for this-one is
their poverty, the other a public opinion
which condemns the working woman if she
shows any evidence of Willingness to attract
attention by the gavety of her attire If
she is above the rank of the peasant, and
must be seen upon the street or i'll public in
her efforts to earn her daily bread, her dress
must be black, or absolutely neutral, to
preserve herself from remark, or at least
from the inference that she was frivolous.
The working women of France are bound
in very much the same way; but they have
acquired more pecuniary independence;
they control almost all the retail business of
the country, and if they had the tasUe for
which they receive the credit, would have
worked out beautiful ideas. But at this
moment, France is very much like America,
it receives its ideas secondhand, and only
imposes certain sumptuary laws through
the wickedness of its men, who praise what
ever is made attractive to their eyes and
imaginations.
IL England it is different. English
women are type by themselves: and with
the energy Of the Saxon and the tenacity of
the Briton originate ideas ard create con-
dtions which influence the rest of the
world. The American woman is French
and English when she is not wholly Irish
or German while the Austrian woman is
French and German, and in her independ-
ence and activity is a constant reminder Of
the american.
But the American woman has little of
then all in her dress. She uses lace like
the austrian, a practical walking-dress like
the English woman, all the draperies and
capnces Of the French demi-monde, blends
colo's like an oriental and loves fur like a
Russian. Sooner or later, moreover, she
graifies her taste. The girl who dreamed
drems in cotton sun-bonnet wears Sc, 900
worth of lace in a London drawing-room
whre, as an American, she is the eQuiva-
lers of duchess. The woman who spent
NAT her life cooking on a rickety stove and
Wishing flannel shirts in log cabin, is
scene old lady in ner later years, who takes
be nieces to Europe and wears seal-skin
oats and India shawls worth small
fctune.
Che amount of European travel has an
eprmous influence upon the whole question
! the dress and clothing of American
tomen, but not precisely in the way which
hight have been expected. The few merely
',ociety" women-a very small proportion
/ the whole number-who run overn and
nturn every other season, doubtless watch
ne advent of some new little twist or trick
fashion; they would do the same at home.
Tut the majority find, with surprise, much
,Ss fashion abroad than at home; that is,
,ss stress put upon it, less of change in the
etail of form and finish, and more value put
pom permanent qualities, beautiful work,
sal lace, solid fabrics and unadulterated
They are astonished to find themselves
stunning from London and Paris with few
ew ideas in regard to bonnets or ways of
earring their hair; but with one coveted
,awl or long cloak, a set Of real lace, an
costume, or one of black silk
sposing safely in their biggest trunk. In
,nsibly they acquire a new idea of what
institutes value in their clothes and they
i'll never again, as long as they live, give
ute SO much Importance to the little
-eaks and vagaries, to change in the cut of
be sleeve or the length Of the drapery;
nd they will see the manifest improperly
! using the same fussy and elaborate de-
ign for practical cotton or wooden gown,
ihich they are told is the --latest thing" for
frs Langtry on the stage or Mrs. Any body
lse In a ballroom.
Before closing this slight preamble, it
lay not be out of place to dissipate, for
ONE American women, the lurid light
which hangs about the New York custom
ouse. In entering port, we are not called
pom, either as men or women, to discuss
he question of abstract right. but simply
hey the laws of the country; and ours for
I'D the endeavor to bring in, free of duty,
whatever is not plainly intended for per-
onal use, and is not so cut and fashioned as
o inferentially prohibit its employment as
n object of sale or barter. But the GUS
oms Goes not interfere with personal effects
md puts fairly liberal construction upon
hem. There was time when much con-
usion prevailed upon this point, and when
he construction of the law was often put
INTO the hands of rude, inexperienced
md irresponsible persons, whose ideas OF
lersonal belongings and requirements were
ar below their standard of enolument.
5ut this is no longer the case. The organ
zation of this functionary force is now
greatly systematized and improved; it is at
llnoe more efficient and less disagreeable.
Intelligent women are employed who UNI
lerstand what constitutes a wardrobe, are
more discriminating and know how to
handle women's clothing without injury or
greatly disturbing its proper folding or
arrangement The discredit thrown upon
them, by calling them "spies" and the Ike,
Is very unfair and quite unmerited. They
ara paid officials, and though sometimes
forced TO disagreeabIe duty, generally per