Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1888-10-11
NEW Yosa LBrrEs.
New CIosks and wraps--Piain Dress
Goods -Bardrrs, Piaids aud stripes

GoDds-Barucrs, Pintds aud stripes
--NriIiincry--I'rinnnli I'm
Ev, Variety.
speciai correspondenceo OF Gazette and Journal
NEW yoRK, Got. Ain new clocks,
the yoke iB pervading feature, ap-
psaring not only In long garments
With fulusas attached TO II, but In
short wraps, where Ia front II often
mergea into a vest, since vests also are
almost omnipresent. .'Fulness,n Ike
wise, must be taken as expressing much
in cloaks. With notifications, long,
straight breadths envelope the figure and
here the two principal exponants arc
the INNS cloak gathered to yoke, and
the o sasanI's cloak that drapes long and
s,raight from gathering about the neck.
Both are without sleeves, therefore In
convenient and manifestiy upsuited to
any but slender figures. Rsglans In
consequence I'LL . place a. yet untitled
by anything else. They are graceful for
stout people ard adapted to heavy ma
itrial, while Newmarkets possets O
| jauntiness and capacity for setting OF
trim form that 60 far to keep them in
vogue. They are also presented with no
many differences that sameness Ia pre-
oluded the like can be said OF Raglans,
where nj times the sleeves psariy BweaI
the ground, Diversity Is furthermor,
given by secondary material, chiefly vel
vet making really combination GARNER
of them, and thus dressed in novel for
they do not weary the vision. Som
persons too, have invested ia Newmarkt
and Raglans, that they cannot be give,
up and II may be said that they are
eminently passable though passing.
Short wraps are made chiefly OF failie,
armure or velvet, and are longer than
those OF the summer. In
PLAIN DRESS GOODS,
Cashmere, Henrietta cloth, either all wool
or with high silk finish, and termed satins
| Henrietta, camers hair, eheviot, or twillr
are the principal importations. There 10
fancy for solid oolors, and therefore
novelty goods are in a minority, but mos
OF tho goods Just mentioned have been
manufactured in diverse weavipgs as vel
set usually in stripes, as whore ohuddab
Eigzags diagonals, armure patterns, reps
cords, &C., are placed in alienation an6
innumerable RIedatiors as to width. Thif
is q marked Idea of the time and extend
not only 10 silks but ribbons. Wher
harmony or contrast Of color appears, th
soft Rra6ations of shaded stripes bYint
about much that Is pretty. Dots, spots
matLapRtical figures, palm leaves OF
tapestry patterns also prevail. Blocadss
show corresponding thoughts, while In
plain sllken fabrics, tho lead is taken b,
peau dc sole, faille, reps, twills ant
srmure patterns.
B9RpERED DREss PATrHRNs,
however are conspicuous factors In dress,
and to large extent take the place OF
combination costumes. Experience has
brought finish, continued play Of fancy,
and much that ia new and noticeable
Silk threads 10 wooden borders give hand
come blendings. Metal threads ulay
higher part, and both are often disIossd
Ia Persian patterns that are reckoned eE-
tremely stylish, the inner part OF tha
breadth being frequently filed in with
palm leaves Stripes, either ia monotone
Of different weayes or In contrasting
coloss, are also very fashionable and COM
pete with plaids for supremacy, having
the advantage OF greater adaptability,
since according ss the stripe ia wide or
marrow, II may be worn by stout or slon-
der persons, wbile plaids or even checks
arc or should be oonhnsd exclusively to
the slender. Both are frequently com.
bined with plain goods, particularly the
last two, and az an example of stylish
uniting, and conveying late Ideas in dtess-
making on we'll, reference may be had to
four costumes furnished by Lord n Tav-
Tor 10 5@rpey's bataar OF September l5t.
iao cos,unss are Of striped natsrial,
ih'sn 81 lla!a and pAln inbFio aud the
fourth is bordered dress. Iu
MILLINERY,
oapotes considerably longer than hith-
erto and long turbans promise to be the
most popular shapes, but modicum Of
wide brimmed hats with isunty contour
are presented for young ladies' more o.
casiopal wear. Felt and velvet reappeer.
the latter in handsome millinery being
adorned at times by fne embroidery.
Flowers of course give way TO plunnaQe,
and birds are very much in vogue Small
ones are placed as coronets and larger
ones are parched with heads backwards
as IL flying away, and it may be noticed
that trimmings in general are placed 40 II
coming from back 10 front BIackbirds
are special fancy. Gros grain and vel
vet ribbon appear with plain edges,
having cord or lines. A satin border
may finish q velvet ribbon, and as
stylish feature may be mentioned the
monotone stripes of different weayes that
harmonize with dress goods. Shaded
strip, also oomport with those apparent
elsewhere, end Hpots on stiff figures also
bring about uniformity. Trimmings are
Of moderate hight, nor Is exaggeration
anywhere noticeable. Ostrich feathers
and tips are fashionable and for broad
bIimmed hats soft feather boas wound
about the neck will replace the lace scarfs
of the summer. Toned effects, usually
three shades OF the same color, light,
medium and dark are stylish. In
TRIMMINGS,
Braid continues much in vogue and Ia
therefore brought out In every concsiy-
able variety, running into passementeries
that In the higher types reach great
beauty. Black or oolors are quita as
often chosen as last season; toned effects
also are in vogue, but cashmere coJors
lead for the most dressy wear. ME
threads come in here with good result, g.
in like manner, fine cut beads In Persian
shades and the two combined bring
about charming results. Jet Ia much
used, but chiefly for indoor costumes;
not nearly so much as formerly on wraps
that at present are trimmed by passe-
mentesie or crooheted gaEnitures, which
retain @ high position.
RosAIND MAY.