New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-02-26
SPRING GOWNS.
BEAUTIFUL WOODS AND REFINED STYLES.


GOLD BRAIDs-NEw HANDKERCHIEF
Tho goods imported for early spring with
ornamonted selvcdgcs tho bordcrcd wool' they
sometimes called, mad, up into gowns Of ono
fabric entirely They never used In combination
with silk satin, though they seen in French
fashion plates associated with figured, striped,
plain woods OF different color which match tho
selvedges In pattern and shade.
woollen fabrics for entire tailor gowns are exten-
sivoly imported this season In natural mixtures,
beige tints and Suede tones and especially in denim
blues and gays, tho oremr being the exact color Of
tho heavy cottons which form the familiar ovcralls'
Of the workman In plain mixtures these woods mako
excellent tailor gowns, which need no garDuro, ex-
oept scvedge In this selvedge tho darker tone of
the mixturc forms two-inch band OF solid color on
edge for trimming the lower skirt and
drapery, and a One-lnch band on tho other
edge for trimming the corsage. This borders tho
front of the and the high collar and small
square cuffs. 1t Is passing fancy to use the wdor
border for tho edge of tho undersr above The braid.
Tho skirt ln such is made the usual found
alton skirt OF alpaca, silk or farmers satin, and tho
undersurt is shaped this foundation skirt, that
drapery, like tho undersk r Is made engthwse Of tho
goods, thus avoiding seams and allowing tho sevedgo
to form a border.
stylish street gown Of denim and cream-white
wool in fine pnhead checks had two twoinch selvedgcs
OF solid blue The undersklrt plain and was Dor
dorod by tho sevedges and nearly covered by
long, graceful drapcry also bordercd, the border cx
tending up the left sdo where tho drapery was held
revers which were turned back to display vest OF
white pquo, sprggod In pattern resembling the old
fashioned brilliant cottons.
Hair-llned French sultings for entire costumes arc
shown in tho natural colors and In cream-whe, and
are especially dainty and pretty in golden browns and
gray blue denim shades Woods follow the rule OF
silks small figures, stripes and checks intended
for solid costumes, while the larger paids and figured
plain woolens. The combination dress Of two binds
of wool will find favor In cities outside
OF our metropolis than IN the streets Of Ncw-York
except with who always seek to be conspicuous
in dress and manner; "h'ghly -oolored' season Is
cnslvely In tho West and South but tho conservative
women-and the best dressed women of New York arc
always more conservative In matters Of dress than tho
same class In England and Franco-will use natural
nounced shades. They may add touch of gold or
silver to their bodceS worn within DOORS but In tho
will DO severely plain with trimming OF braid bands
In tho OF tailor coats simple collars, cuffs and
sometimes revers OF velvet.
Fashionable women in New-York arc as fastidIous
as French about tie cut, fit and general chic OF
their street costumes, but chary in the
OF color. Tho elegance OF their gowns depends
tlrey upon their style and their adaptablty to the
occasion for which they designed. Tho Intense
brilliant reds and conspicuous copper shades OF cloth
which are used In imported street Jackets arc freely
to general country and Watering place wear.
Silk and wool mixtures of various kinds certain
to be popular Henrietta, cool pOngee woods Of tho
Of tho india silk. corded bengaIincs, all
show the popularity OF these mixtures Trustworthy
merchants recommend these mixed goods In blacks and
neutral mixed colors but often hesitate TO recommend
them In tho colors for general wear. Tho best
shops prefer to recommend cashmere which is puro
wool goods whose wearing qualities known rathor
than Henrietta cloths in colors which compares
lively and many Of which arc produced by strong
anine dyes. These dyes liable to act unequally
on tho silk and wool Of which the goods made, rem.
dcrIng them apt to crlnkle with dampness. This Is
likely to DO the trouble In any mixture where dyes
havo not been subject to special tcss, as they have
In black Henrietta cloths, and those suited to the union
OF the two materials found. Pongce cloths are delight
fully cool street goods which shed the dust and
especially recommended for summer travelling dresses
They are shown in fine hair stripes and plain and
in Quiet browns and dark blues these cloths are hand
some and durable Moha Ts. are shown IN dark and
ures are finished with ornamental sovedgcs In opcn-
work, somewhat like hemstitchng The delicate tlnts
of silks arc reproduced In these mohair woods Tho
emerald grass green which arc popular with PART
sian women arc reproduced in tho mohar pisds, IN
cross bars, and broken patterns on cream suede and
other delicate grounds. Only little OF this con-
spicuous goods which Is used in the underskrt is al
lowed to show, 1t being almost concealed beneath
tho abundant drapery OF plain cream or other goods
used as drapcry. small bodice with touch OF tho
gay plaid and revcrs cuffs, and collar OF green velvet
complete the dress.
White woollens arc shown in many weavcs Of cloth
and will remain popular for yachting and for
general country For dressy whito wool cos
Tunes arc Bedford cords fine repped wool with tho
cord running from solvodge to sovodge. Those gowns
are finished with vests and garntures Of gold or silver
braid I'm irregular wavy patterns straight set lines.
No remedy has yet been found for tho sulphur
Gus matter used to bleach nearly all creamy
woollen which causes metal braid to become furnished
before tie dress IS worn out and In turning
the metal dark In a few weeks. The greatest care
should be exercised in keeping those wooens In boxes
Ing matter, as enough Of the suphurous matter Is
Aimed by white woods to bleach in spots almost
any coored dress or PONCE sH hIns hen 10 sho
with Q piece of silk and laid away In dark place win
DO found in few weeks to have bleached tho silh
wherever It ceme IN contact with IT, Tho only rcmcdy
Tor this is 10 dispense with metal trimmings, unless
trustworthy merchant is willing to guarantee that no
sulphur Is used by the manufacturer In bleaching
goods.
White MORO and opal tinted white silks In the FRI.
descent shades OF the milk opal both used In com.
,natiou with sheer whito woollens and mohairs Tho
Altering place gowns will be made Of ohanscsbo opsI
y hite silk In combination with gold embroideries.
cU in ,5RS PALE Sss ground With
p Into. ssSSsUi;fssiy sT:sef"I little gowns
md other accessory trimmings Of tho yelowish tinted
,roon OF rose leaves
Tho finest handkerchiefs OF linen oambro arc woven
many IS thirty ve threads to the square, inoS TSS
from p Sss he .'p IN y ss a.
YORK during Tho wInter at embroidery. Nearly ell
Sheer, nne handkoNhIofs with homsttohsd border
or gentiemen's drcss usc arc shown In qualities that
p arc duo q "a sSo co9.s9y Co., Arnold
unstable 3 Co, Lord Taylor RedSern and james