Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-02-04

Prom Our Own Correspondent.
NEW YORK, Feb 3, 1885,
There are lovely possibilities In dress nova
days II one can avail oneself Of them. But it Is
dlscouraging TO md the general result still far
from satisfactory. and the most opposite words
used 10 describe and really representing the same
thing. 10 Is time that we were app oximating to
some sense Of the fitness OF things, that we began
10 recognize the qualities that belong TO evening
dress. 70 morning dress, TO street dress, and TO
even more subtle subdivisions OF costume such as
naturally formulate themselves In the lives OF wo-
men OF society. But these are minority; there is
mIuch larger contingent whose opportunities OF
display are few, ana these OF q seml-puolic char
acter, who air incomprehensible costumes who
ara long In obtaining new idea; but when they
DO, run II hard and into the ground believing that
In this way they are actual exemplars II not
leaders OF fashion These are the people who keep
The big hustle and give color to the assertion that
Il Is fashiOnably worn IL Is they who are adopt
In the low-necked oall-dress at a time when the
refined and ultra fashionable are leaving IL on.
There Is nothing 70 be said against the modest
forms OF low-necked dress employed for evening
dress oy ladies. young and up 10 middle life. who
nor so stout as 10 attract attention, but become
natural part OF an attractive ensemble. But the
obligation 10 wear low-necsed dresses Is 10 ,e
Pniistine and il cannot be driven ou:; she viii
stick 10 u, Ike queen Victoria through thick and
melting nesh Will have 20 yield
the Low-NECKED DRESS
There are distinct signs OF It now At the
"Charityn ball par excellence, the low neck, very
pointed u match the elbows, was In the majority.
The style had no reference whatever 10 the figure;
for In large number OF cases IL would have been
greatly benefited by doubt; but it was simply
displayed because there Is growing desire 10 be
sQIal TO an occaSon ana because S iow-necked
dress by certain class Of persons because 10 Is so
abroad AS before remarked, there Is nothing 10
b SAID against modestly-cut low neeked dress II
the wearer and occasion lifted By IL; but there
l. nothing IN social life, our Institutions
habits which ooliges Us 70 slaylshly copy foreign
OF IDEAS irrespective VI their adaptability or pro-
priety. American women need TO think indie
pendently and adopt or adapt from others only
what suits them personally as well as their POSI-
ton and circumstance.
IL Is true that our ideas well as traditions In
dress come mainly from abroad; that the Prettiest
gowns, Those which make the sensation, are
usually found 10 be "impOrted" or closely copied
from imported designs But this one convention
ally beautiful and perfect model re-appears In hun
dreds OF less perfect and beautiful ways upon
srai modes and habits are out OF harmony with
ultra fashionable styles II Instead Of copying,
such women have INTELLIGENCE enough TO acquire
mediarely obtain reputation for originality, and
VIII md themselves copied instead OF copying
initiate the lmitators, and get farther and far
ther away from purity, even of the conventional
Idea In such hands the GIecian folds or draperies
becUme closely gathered and wr1nSied string
about the neck, the long garland OF ellnging
flowers cheap little bunches stuck on without art
or grace The long lines disappear and the natural
curves OF the soft materials, and In their place
sharp turns, ounehiness something TO hide poverty
or sca1tiness o. material and a general sense OF
Inadequate
mere are fair and plump women. not too stout,
To whom the haf-low bodice. pointed back and
front, laid nat against the fair skin and bordered
Win rur-otteT, lor example. upon ivory satln-is
IN rae ~ The ssaon M anu @
costumes are Of cOlOrs in white satin, covered
with lace and paneled with gold embroidery. which
re-appears upon the bodice
SHORT COSTUMES
The most distinguished short costumes are of
white cloth, with pointed vests and 1nIsh OF
white lambs wool, lambs wool cape and nun. |
But some artistic girls display charming COS
tunes OF soft. gray wool. with 4 touch OF dark red
On the vest anu CUTS and red herun's feather In
the full. round, Tam OShanter cap. The In |
formal character or many OF the receptions. the |
number Of club entertainments and the growth |
or Seini-social and semi-Ierdry Soceti makes IL |
Increasingly possible for women, especially young
women. 10 see good deal Of varied society with
on, any great display IN regard 10 dress.
entertainments that demand peculiar strictness |
and elegance vi costume. on such occasions /
informality Is out OF place, and II the require
Llents cannot BE- met on intelligent adaptation OF
art IDEAS TO such resources as within ones |
reach and means do not admit OF costly orders !
from tie usual conventional sources. lt Is best to
give up such forms OF gayety altogether. More |
Of the strain which makes lie a burden comes !
and resources are Inadequate than nom any other
cause. The only way Is Just TO stopiI.
There IS nothing 10 this world so lovely for ball
dress for young girl as white silk tulle over silk
sprlkled with qlriverng rose leaves, striped with
white satin or nOirs ribbons. or edged with down
and sparkling with tiny snow crystals. All these
have figured at Deimonico's and other balls since
the New l ear, but not IN large numbers for they
are very fra and very costly; and even II the silk
nnf -rp- can 10 n
o. tulle the WORK OF RECONSTRUCTION would cost as
much time, labor AMI motley an ordinary dress
which Is especially web adapted for the draped
and striped fronts, so often combined with the
pretty art or rosebud silks quite new idea APP
great success The tCilette was an imported one
but very simple. IL consisted OF fawp-gray tulle
hons aad wide sash of soft six The pointed bod
lie was OF fawnray satin, nat yellow feather Dor
derng and group OF paie-yelow ostrich tips ON the
lrfJ shoulder The wearer a beautiful bru-
n"tte yellow tulle worn on the same occasion
was sarnitured with trails Of purple orchids
MATERIALS FOR EVENING WEAR
Among the most charming OF the materials for
evening wear worn by young girls are the satin
striped SIX gauzes which have the effect OF being
striped With satin ribbon from half an inch TO an
iacn IN width They are very wide, In self colors
and worn over silk OF exactly the same shade The
edge Oi the SILK SKIRT has narrow Plating, but the
gaEze Is finished only with hem; the fuiines5
fd.ny In soft. straight folds, which are slightly
Graped 10 one SIDE under the scorSeiia or pockef
susYcnIeI Oy narrow ribbons OF exactly the same
shade The bodice Is pointed back and front
dTape'- " IN Greciln folds and the sleeves (or the
gaIIze Onlyl come lust below the elbow ana are
caught up on the inner side with bow OF ribbon
There Is edgng or Flushing OF lace, but only in
visible attic plaitings OF tulle which do not pro-
lect beyond he gauZe
VARIED women have largely adopted the silk or
sun gown. opening or turned back from the lace
SJNeti front, ths train and bodice formed OF rich
D.Ocaue a.u uSuatly cut In one, and arranged with
winged ur butterfly effects over a moderate tour
nGre great many Powered and detached n.y.
are offered al comparatively low prices The finest
bIoclies show blended designs which cover the
ground or form part Of the ground itself
Ine eoiOrs are very delicate or else very high "A
s1Iltst Js.lOW AID white, gray, yellow and White
pAle leHOtr0pe, yellow and white or AN ali
white or all red. the lights and shadows and
different tints OF which are obtained by The
raised or depressed, the cut or uncut cbsy,c, a
OF parts OF the designs Lace and pearled en-.
broiiery, particularly the transparent embroid
ery which contains the colors or tnts OF the bro
caie ana gives gumpses OF the ground color be-
Ledth furnish the fronts for these stately dresses
and their garniture- Ribbons and feathers are
cut OF place where much Embroidery or beading "a
used Sleeves and bodice are partly formed OF the
stars crescents, or butterflies fastened here ana
there make spots Of radiance upon the richly
cleaning surface.
BECOMING coAra
independent waists coats and bodices are more
fasaioraDle than ever. beautiful costume worn
=" Other evening al dinner party given 70 dis
tnsulsned Parsonage consisted OF a white satin
sAirt completely covered with black lace and a