The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-03-31
FASHIONS FOR APRIL.
oDERN SCIENCE AS APPLIED TO
DRESS FABRICS.

try IN w Oul0h . w OdI
of Machinery to Oriental Work-The
steam Loom limitations of Eastern
Eand Reproduction of Old
Fashioned CombinationS-The Prob
lem of Trinmings-RecentE Exhibition
of Some Beautiful and Expensive
Stvles-A New Departure in Youth
full Costumes-The Striped Flannel
Dress for Out-of-Door Sports-The
Perennial Spring Jacket in Many
Designs and Patterns.
New YORK, March 31.-Those who are
hnterested in the advancement of manufac-
kures on permanent lines are gratified to
ind that in all tho best productions of the
silk looms for the present season there is less
.Df willingness to sacrifice the really good to
something pretty and striking; and more of
hn effort to work on permanent lines and
adhere to standards or create new ones of
BETTER character This has been the case
luring the past twenty years in various
Kinds of production, notably in wooden and
cotton materials used for dress purposes;
nor do we at all realize the vast expendi-
lTb pLC OllAJuilo VI CARCl ohO
kill, the scientific knowledge, and finally
he persistent, patient industry which enters
nto a new departure or an actual improve
bent of which we only see the results.
Black silks are always in demand, always
standard fabric, and some French manu-
lecturers, when they produce new ''make"
silk, send sample dress pattern to one
the great London houses to be ''tested" as
a,.,,r te 10 nm
to shop" dress for one of the young
ldes in the mantle department; the manu-
scturers rightly considering that if it can
and the wear and tear of putting on and
skiing off of cloaks and mantles without
evelOping bad qualities, it will be good for
culinary service.
The novelty of the season in the bonnet
SKIS is a new, black, shot taffeta called
1oie CUR" which is thick, supple, rich
lDking, drapes well and looks an almost
wfect silk. 1t is said to have been tested
aroad and found to bear any amount of
cushing and rubbing; for the warp is
supple and the fibre cooked" to rid it of
Gtraneous properties. The cost is quite
highs shillings and 6 pence per yard in
England; So 80 per yard here, for less
heavy quality.
Another great novelty in silks is the en-
trOidered China silks; embroidered not by
looms of France. The embroidery is exc
Cuted in button hole stitch in various de-
signs, i'll self or delicate contrasting colors,
and adds just the touch of enriching orna-
mentation which the somewhat negative
character of the fabric needs. The exquis
iey printed eastern silks and pongees
afford another instance of western skill in
overcoming the inadequate results of east
em methods as applied to dress fabrics. We
OanuOf nrO6upp V tina Glow q nd nof1nnt
c@ses of hand labor, the foundation stuff,
but we can now initiate successfully, and
add to their beauty by an infinite variety of
( charming effects in color and design.
This application of tints, forms and loom
& Embroidery gives us a whole class of cool,
soft and lovely fabrics which have hitherto
been for many unavailable, because their
fat and irLfeid character required positive
genius as well as expensive applied decora-
ton to render them attractive and becom-
bng. We have had more or less attempts for
years to accomplish this end, but they were
Usually not successful, because not adapted
To the fabric. The colors were too high, the
designs too commonplace. More art has
now been developed in shading and coloring;
more delicacy and harmony with the char
acter of the Stuffs put into the design.
Coins and crescents, interlocked rings and
rsyed suns, keys and palms vie with dainty
lOwerets and tbrous antenn8 of woods and
fields and ocean caves.
The "shot" or changeable silks are finding
place of their own, as rich Innings, facings,
Trimmings and mountings. There is great
effort expended upon them, however, to
make them acceptable for complete tot
Rttes. Among the best effects is one in
red aud bronze obtained by dipping the
silk in one color while it is still wet with the
other. Velvets are dyed to match these
rich silks in order that they may be COM
blned with them.
A silk which some elderly ladies would
delight in--who remember some such design
and colorlng in their young days-consists
OF narrow satin stripe in dark moss green,
with tiny vine of red leaflets running
through it, and plain, ombre stripe in
light green over red, which produces a sort
OF grey shade and makes a quiet, ''old-
fashioned" combination. Young girls
might wear it as ponpadour overdress,
with dark, moss green skirt.
Magnificent silks are still shown for grand
occasions, as these now occur all the year
round. Among these are lovely Louis
seize brocades and ivory silks with striped
satin and dull corded surface, with trail
lngs OF moss or ground creepers over the
surface and orchids or spray of hedge roses,
grouped here and there upon the surface
Il Is recognized that it would be a SIN to
loop and bunch and twist aud mangle these
llne fabrics. Modistes who respect beauty
III material make them with square or
pointed bodices, elbow sleeves; sleeves and
bodice draped with old lace and long, plain
elllptical trains
SILK AND WOOL.
4 There was time when ''mixed" fabrics
We're discredited because they will not
clean" or dye well, and cannot be exposed
70 rain or moisture without showing the
effects, In rough and drawn appearance
tne result of difference in fibre. As good
pack does not need Reducing, but keeps its
color as long Us il lasts, the objection does
not hold in regard to such materials as the
SIX warp Henrietta" cloths; but it has
done much to destroy the prestige of Irish
#pophns, once Il fashionable and always a
cn-looking and costly fabric.
lhe new silk and wool materials do not
snow the mixture of fibre in the body of
the stuffs This is all Of wool. The silk is
introduced as a wide corded stripe, some
umes blocked i'll two shades of color. Some
lines forming a cluster of lines; or again,
Wtwo stripes, one of satin, one of corded,
manageable silk. The color may be con
or9Stlng or in different shades of the self
Color The object is to produce a rich,
striped effect in the fabric for side panels,
est or bodice trimming and if required,
IMlor The bottom of the skirt. The fashion
zoe colors are the new shades of peach,
olraSted with pale blue or cream; olive
" bronze and Swede or terra Gotta. Olive
sIay with lines of cream, yellow and black.