New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-09-30
PARIS FASHIONS.
THE QUEEN OF PoRTUGAL's DRESSES
s AVN wnAps-EMprRB AND prREoro1RE
-.-v, re NOT THE MOST ELEGANT.

Paris. Sept 14-The new fah isshoa, rhcb
..,or ~ small but notable modhcauo"S I'm
detached from the general desc'po" ~ fashions
rtyo clearer idea OF wha' '"0
have nroposcd to introduce. ~.,,ort
.s,rts Of every description We maho VIZ, -,
s.r.rv the long straight line being oosor'o' -.
"a tb,ck materials will be employed. suoes sn.a,ed
nm be made entirely OF cioth inv , =, ,ha,
coutursers have ordered great qusn" '..s,rc IN o,
,nstcraI and propose to use 1t Tor 'ne ms" E'sn,.
- ..,t,ny calling and carriage dresses w.
ia'ey 80 dressmakers rather disdaincd inc stun,
"a ,est II for tailors who, chalk III MANI waa.r
,.d,cs garments as they do gentlemehs coats Iii
nv have changed their minds anu a. Wv ,,s
establishment l saw two mooeis VI ha rom
$500 made for the Queen Of Portugal 70 10 WI"
DRESSES - .s,,,,,,es attending her niece's marriage
IN Turin m o, oil shades
The most fashionable color VIII De green' al
=. 80 Tho one most In favor IS very paic Eroon
t,nred with light gray and called iIosn a nna,,e
erens Combinations Of moss, Mo- IN
"a hottie and ivy green's, all shades IN iac, WIZ
y. orr Beirc combined with brown Is SUN oo,
$1,000 effective. l also saw several toilets na1.
,r,,h the old fashioned indigo blue lna' WV ~,
snrh,nnr well with any other. IT is generauS Asa
u.th white or trimmed with bands Vi iui' -,
the very convenient lace dress IS no longer ~ IN
h.rc ana silk has been abandoned for inc nsA .an
n.'.' ' ,,o.v ,ew black dresses are on exhiotoh
awhv NOT discard black altogether" saa W. -
4. 80. q and Leave II for mourning' twenty 20
oo eniy rncss Who were In mourihns WV .ho cav
I think 1t was q good distncuon 49,. wv. Msck now
and the sad and for my part, sha'' u'o o1orp
,r In combination with some rehe'ins 49,.
Only !" s,oh cloth would be out OF place.
s ,,r,os and matelasses viii be useu. 0
- o,ana,scs are made of brocades IN poau s'.p
mingled with the narrow traiins 1asos wreath
~ the time Of Louis XVI as inc ha' -, oak or
=, tho First Empire, made up OF IVY 'u,oe ~
-, ,o.ves To modify the weghtv appcaia .sod
nv :. lee mr. some other light mateua oo'.
-. ,ro,deries or deep fringes piush an d,
VIZ eoo,,xe not TO be extensively cmpio'
e,,S,n.,,ons They will be worths laNo'''' ''
rails for fall and winter. A.. mack TO
n"s ~. .,-.., models. from the back OF the heoA "
the edge of the skirt arc made pam ~, cut in
,smminp OF any kind. Bodice anu sA'. ~, az hacn Of
100, THE gathering folds al inc D"
~ sh,rt are allowed In the stun ai'oi NV 80
:. ,he hoace What stamps disuhc"on ~ - tho
oao,s 4. the graceful curve from tne sMa ,oso,o
,st N the back folds OF the shii, o,,ors
,ostilion or Jacket flaps must ocaA NV OIL the
In. There must be Just enough 'o ~, ,,n.
~ - 20 sustain and not pull out INC sh -
Way 49, ,hor hand the fronts OF dresses arc W.
~ W" ,rhov are made of highly trimmed anu ON
hro,dered stufs whose patterns a." rr,rs stvles
Dro'uo' .a,te The Directorc and Empire s'' GO,
however toned dCwr for present use al. .nron,c,,
ho"e'o'' 80, no ladies who object TO be cohspicu-
s.ss In preference, therefore, cou'
It'll hn m
os,oval STYLES which they know wiz 10
acceptable Tie round oodces a'o eoas of fine
,,ctea then adjusted with tghtht''hs Pr a Anil
,s.r,os dome with dim colors, old goio anu ou
en'oro" s,,os these pieces are prolonged anu
,o,o.s down the front Of the SKIRT WHO -
in ,,srs models they end above the narrow S'A.
holt and assume the shape OF "'ooi' 80 ,rit,
.,os.-e ttInp vest The tight sleeves aro '' , ,,,,s
Mgn hut narrow puff on the shoulders. Inc 49,
,,r ,sthered ON the bodices, fall straight 10 ne
,tcb 1y
.,o suchtlv looped-a la chatelalnc-"i'h '"o F'N
GOD ends of the narrow embioldefco ooi~ ,
The few short wraps worn WIN i"i' 49,. m,
made 10 match the dress In stun anu oin" a.,
n.,,e,o differs from the lacevevet anu Ie' wiap
s Tho last three years have been 50 iaSh ',
M . - longer in the back, forms long hcaNn'
..mned nanels In the front and the seoNos o.
,rde 8owing and decidedly pointed ID the oa'A
ou,nr,e,s do not encourage the sale OF sioi' BOZ
49,. thew mar the general symmetry OF tho presen
hion'' assses Long amply gathered garments ar
80 heeuine These, for calls, are lett III inc car
-, ~ % rent On are thrown back so as 10 niue III
mart Of the dress. The long LOUIS Nv nA"'0 :"
Worth invention, or rather rcVlNai "a a i,,
7, g. made Of subdued colored SIX coVcfcu wiz
C,n,r,,v laco. a thick ruching of lace around IN
rsch The material is shirrcd from NECK " Sn
=. . , deem woke then is left TO fall In gather
.. ,he edce Of the skirt defining the figure only III III
Middle of the back, where is fastened " INC wa"
With ribbons as belt Short, stout iaoies ouou'
beware Of these cloaks they are oAi9 oSN'Ae
tall, thin persons.
All novelty In hats seems to be exhausted al ioa'
en- saws the arbiter Of styles, Nine Nlrol' anu sn
srD,v recommends the toQue and capote stlh 10
,r those who persist wearing hats, she has qui,e
assortment The Tosca, with the proao ion' oi'i
emf so narrow on the sides that there Is ho'hs ic
NJ IL I'm the back still prevails me cro"hs al
small and low. The brms OF the most enecuVe UnoS a.
covered with long ostrich feathers TUT OF Iea'hei
- an e,onrated bow of ribbons makes up the uh
ming Plush and velvet hats made to match ,he CO.
tune I'm color will be most In favor fohes arc >"
worn with Directore and Empire toiie'si inc urin
arc left nlain and the top Of the crown Is covere
NTH feathers The favorite toque and capote Il
street wear will be made with piece OF eio'h 10 a'e
,hst ~ the dress The piece is so loosely throwl
gathered or folded the form, that any iady may
easily led to believe she cam for THIS oecaSion 70 "
ovn millner Four five fruitless sttcmpts' NOV
cver will convince her that in millinery the mo-
easy a thing seems 10 be In MAKE inc noro O.
perlenced the fingers must be TO give IL inc Pie'N
twist l find headgear covered with the usual amour
of wings, binds and p.Umes dc coqd" i'e ia''or a
chosen small; they are bent downward, maoe III
round tufts and topped with aigrettes Ladies see
10 have had enough eowers this summer nono q
seen OIL any OF the fall boLne's
To suit the dimensions Of hats and poke bonnie
,ons have grown In size They are made to envelo
,ho rbo,s of the face. to lie In ample folds Oh
br,m of tho hat and then to be tucked up N sni'
wad In tho back. Ladies who are iona oi inc re
Cbantllly lace veils with thcky WORKED porueis' Id
revived the fashion Of throwing them loosely ov
hat or bonnet as their grandmothers used 10 uehs
in wearing them. Dotted wells have now the p'
cedence over plain ones.
MIlliners and dressmakers pay special attention
fancy mufs this season. To be In styie' iaay niU
have one suit every dress, and each must DO III"
Of the same material as the costume. Iney are We
small are made wide at the ends and are mteho
10 be more for show than comfort BACK OF Tie u
trimming a small aperture is left for inserting sm'
lace handkerchief
Here are descriptions Of few Felix street cos'um
sent TO Maria Pia, Queen Of Portugal
fresh almond green and darkgrcen cloth SUIT ID
the front Of the skirt made of the Acknowledgment
hangs plain and straight only slightly gathered on q
bodice. This shrt. about half way up, is worked WI
cream six twne In long. naIrow festO0ned eav