New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-03-04
MANS MODEST OUTFIT
HIS CLOTHES AND WHAT THEY COST HIM.

CHANGES IN FASHION FOR TIE SPRING AND SUM-
MER-srYLEs RUN TO CONSCIOUSNESS.
@sprns has como, doar boy" observed young snob-
leigh to his friend DO Ruyter, the two we're slipping
brandy and soda tho other evening at tho club at
isn't that old Plumber has put down tho price OF
roses" continued snobleigh warming under his fourth
thImblcfuL "And haven't been reading any poetry
In THE Century But saw Checkcy to-day on tho
Avenue. Clever old boy, Checkley's tailor. New top
coat silk to the edges. rolling down tho front, waist
coat embroidered cutaway Of ono plaid trousers OF
brilliant sH colone Of II ishanders Hang man
we arc wearing stripes and thinking It's st wnor
All, ycs,. returned DO Rnytor. trae skeptcaIly,
taken aback by his companions burst OF huency But
6nobleighi'
Still snoblegh right about tho stripes and plaids
Checkeys tailor and all the other high class taiors
have decided to drop tho popular striped goods for
sutngs and push In their stead Q great variety OF
plads and checks. People who like stripes will hold
out fer the summer, perhaps but by next fall It Is
safe to say the paids and checks will have tho fold
entirely to themselves. Apart from this change, tho
eer of fancy wastooats and tho strengthening OF
the tendency to have no two parts Of suit made on
in mems fashions for tho spring and summon Probably
moro black cutaways will lie worn this year They
30 made so s mo sod
to get black summer overcost for use with a5ess
becoming garment.
To go into tho minutor changes In styles. ono must
start Is far back tho full dress coat Tho "caw-
hammer" for summer Is no longer made OF broad
cloth. Wide vale diagonal IL q satisfactory substitute
as far as looks co. and makes better fitting, cooler
and lighter coat There Is no change, OF course, In
shape. For young mon silk facings are used to tho
edge Of the lapel Elderly mon prefer tho peaked
front, with lining only halfway across Either whte
nrafa
ablo in summer, but good wardrobe should always
have o supply Of both. The wastcoat is ous horse.
shoe shape has three buttons Dress trousers arc
mts s IS nns down the Outside q
whole suit with an extra white vest can be ponghnss
dross Goats stiI made Young bachelors use them en-
for stag parties and thoy arc found ,or
at Newport two years ago. tailor thinks Of offering
them to his customers exceDt to I'LL In tho odds and
ends OF wardrobe
Tho so-oaed Prince Albert coat still retains mod
crate degreo Of popularity with stout, middle aged
men, 1t good for afternoon receptions for walking
and for driving. Yet tho cutaway answers every pur
pose Just we'll and tho younger men have almost
unanimously discarded tho heavier frock coat ono
sort Of Prince Albert, tho single breasted ono made In
Vogue however This Is used for coaching or for
race days. and tho outfit Is completed sc by
waisicOat With TO black lght plaid or S check
trousers are used nock sui either gray vi o"""'
costs about 800.
For half dress nothing seems able TO shake the hold
OF tho cutaways Tho three button coat Is tho better
model for summer though the fourbutton ono Is COM
Ing into favor again. Tho tendency this year Is
toward rolling fronts cut much lower. Some OF them
show the silk Innings as far as tho button-hoes' All
sorts OF ght-colored stus are used as well as thin
dark goods. A wastcoat to match should go with
the coat for use cool days. But all sorts OF FANCY
waistcoats may bo with either three butonec
or or w tho p onden a to- novel combn@
lions running to the extreme this summer. INC ere TO
iS sSa in so n xnrsy ana r 1
have also planned novelty in the shape OF nve,
the TOP bnttonhoie can DO comfortably used. The
light GETAWAYS are rihe less expensive than heavy
winter ones. A coat costs about $50 WIN wast
coat and trousers the total foots up about $50
cross between half dress and business dress is the
three button one peco cutaway, OF rough light goods
with patch breast pockets and side flaps Cheviots
arc used for these All other business SUITS are
made sack fashion. With o sack coat, as with cut
away, fancy wsstcoat and an odd pair Of trousers
may be worn. Sacks looser this year, with WIDER
backs. A business lounglng suit will cost from
$50 to SO The plaid and check patterns this spring
are gorgeous enough to mako any one feel that he -
getting his moneys worth It Is tho same way ~rn
bnatons embroidery OF all tho colors of the spect
have buttons sewcd on, and some adjustable ones to
taken ont when c the or pi sG eS S3ss 20
Tho only overcoat that will bo worn much, tho
taIlors saw Is tho "Chesterfeld' loosely lifting,
short pattern with open fronts lined all the way to
the edges The materials used range from wide vale
wostcds to plain grays In wOrsteds and Venetans.
The coat has silk facings and Is made Win
great supply OF flaps and seams IL Is about TIL co
inches shorter than the "Chesterfeld light over
coat Is a necessity at any watering place Tho makers
seem to think 49, any rate, for they keep the prices
ND in the chilly neighborhood Of so and $780, There
arc few changes in riding, yachting and tennis suits
Trousers used instead Of knckerbockers for tennis
Blazers ana s arc con The mos. extensive part Of
riding outfit They cost 80
Tho high whito hat will como out again with the
coaching season. but its lease Of life Is always bret
and precarous. The black silk hat Is preferable on
nearly every OCCASION Each hat costs W. L'ght
weight dcrbys, gray to brown In color arc SOLO ior
summer wear They have narrower brims and shorter
Gowns straw hats viii flourish in tho country, but
look ont Of place In town They cost genoIaliy from
rS,cton against the use of paont feathers for street
wear There Is no known excuse for wearing oVer
CATERS In the summer season
The furnishing goods dealers always have some
novelties on hand. This year they are following tho
peneral Mft toward rather striking personal decora
finn The coorcd shirts however, Guido In brlliancy
the plads OF tho talors' shops. Most OF them arc
nado with tho collar all Of piece Nevertheless
white collars and cuffs may be with striped shirt
fronts or tho reverse. Silk underwear Is popular
though costly scarfs are bright, and seem llttlo
broader Both four-in-hands and madeup ones ara
worn. Collars turn much the same, and arc no
h,gber Shirts for evening made plain, or
embroidered or In pique Nearly all have three but
tons, though stud is seen oftener perhaps than
two A single stud 1t is sometimes said, Is the rulo
in every American city but York AS to dress
ties every has to settle for himself whether TO tic
his own or buy It mado up. The first method Is In
bgb credit but It's results often unhappy. There
10 An instructive story going tho rounds. In fac
Of a venerable, bald headed man around town, who
drained In about midnight a quiet Lenten enfer
tanment last Monday night His hand may have
been unsteady that evening as he put on tho final
touch At any rate, his tie wandered around toward
his car aud there danged It's tips across his shoulder
uoman &C arcey out OF earshot. lie must have had
n strpid time up at tho ball. coming away so early"