The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1888-09-01

THE REDINGoTE AND RUSSIAN IMPRESSIONS
One realizes more than ever the cosmo-
politan aspects of the American, and
especially the New York womans dress,
upon turning after visit to the great
european and continental cities. Here we
find already the smacliiug OF England and
tie pretty lace of Aust ia the German en-
oroidery, and the French passementeries,
the relingote Of Russia and the expatriated
tea gown Of the Japanese. One thing is
curious, and that is that the lace bow of the
English has goue to Paris after having been
superseded By the long lace scarf in Eng
land, but has not yet found its way to this
country. VIII it come to us as a French
production, CT will our buyers ignore it and
not allow us to pass judgment on it at alll
The lace boa Is composed of cascades of
black or cream lace, arranged in a round
form. The lace should be of silk to be soft
and becoming. A common imitation is
still coarse aad does not look well enough to
pay for the trouble of making. In our
northern and eastern cities there is really
little use for them, except in the autumn,
the winter being too cold. the summer to
hot. But they ought to be welcome at the
south where fur boas are not wanted, or in
California, where the temperature requires
SO little, but admits of so much that is
dainty and delightful in the way of c.o,h-
ing and its accessories.
The redingote dress, with lace boa, or
long, ricn, lace scarf, is the very thing for
a temperate season or climate, because it is
sufficient in itself; and is at once gown and
cloak in one A little confusion seems to
exist in the minds of some as to what a
redlngote is, and in what it differs from u
poonaise. Meanings become perverted in
being transposed in fashion, or the name
teal fll Il Il -
means riding coat; and perhaps the most
important difference between it and the
polonaise is The absence of drapery. The
redingote always hangs straight; and the
modern form gives the effect of the double
dress that Ellen Terry is so fond of and
which she introduced, or rather revived,
for the world of fashion, several years ago.
The redingote will be one of the lead ag
designs this season; and is so available, so
well adapted to service and a variety of
uses, that it is sure to remain in vogue; in
fact, will probably never again be wholly
lost sight of. For a complete costume it
may be made of cloth. with inserted front,
gathered, braided or fat surface, or laid in
folds. The sides may be pinked out, shJ W.
ing an inner edge of color or pinked leather,
or they may be bordered with fur, with
braiding or embroidery. This finish is re-
peated at the neck and wrists, either as
straight collar and cuffs, or as pointed COL
larrette or vest. The prevailing Russian
Influence Strengthens the redingote and as
slstS in preserving its integri V of form; a
very difficult matter when it gets to Paris,
where a fantastic and capricious spirit
rules the hour and invests simplicity itself
with affectation and theatrical effect.
The rage of the season at French watering
places has been for figured moussline de
iaine. thin as nuns yelling and made up as
empire and Merveilleux costumes, with
straight, tucked skirt; short, full, crossed
waist; full, soft, silk sasn and a puff in the
top or at the elbow of the sleeves. These
puffs and the chemisette are of India null !;
and this also is gathered in as lining to
the high, spade-like brim of the fourteenth
century bonnet, which is shaped like an old
Italian monks hat; and is further empha-
sized by high masses of woodland leaves,
fruits or flowers and grasses. Feathery
sprays of an ornamental shrub are some
times used with foliage leaves and fruits,
or tiger lily; and there are the MAR KART
bonnets; an almost exact copy of the
"Markart" bouquet for fireplaces and tall
vases.
The German "spa" branch is very differ
emit. 1t is made of an art red or blue or
ecru handkerchief, embroidered in cream
white dots or figures, artistically folded
out, drawn brim. They are very pretty
and quaint, not exaggerated in size, and
cost from to marks, that is from 70
cents to S1.25. They are lovely for little
girls, who all wear the grandmother"
bonnet.
THE INFLUENCE OF THEATRICAL STARS ON
FASHION.
1t is a little curious that the two strongest
i g.
have come from the stage, represented by
Ellen Terry in England aud Nine. Sarah
Bernhardt in France. But that of Ellen
Terry is the more pervasive and will last
the longest; while that of Sara Bernharit
is the more striking and pronounced, Great
ing immediate and violent excitement,
which have as strong a reaction. To Miss
Ellen Terry we owe the graceful forms
which have succeeded the punched up
draperies and dolly Warden" styles, the
long lines, the straight redingote or
double" dress, with undraped skirt and
large, picturesque sleeves.
Not that she has been directly responsible
for each new pattern, or for the variations
from these ideas, but that her costumes
have represented the general principles and
have formed an admirable contrast to the
usual conventions and caprices. Who will
ever forget, that has seen it, her gown of
old gold brocade in the Merchant Of
Venice" The design was at once adopted /;
not generally, but for certain stately pur-
poses, formal dinners and the like, by some
ladies of intelligence and cultivated taste,
and remains, not as a sensation, but an
integral part of the permanent repertoire of
beautiful dress Stuffs have been manu-
featured expressly for its production, and
the "Benares" brocades, thick, soft, rich,
with wonderful lights, shades and tones of
color, are worthy of Venice itself, i'll its best
days.
These styles move in slow and stately
procession before the minds eye, aud form
the strongest possible contrast to the fan
tastic figures modelled after Sarah Bern
hardt's costumes in "Tosca;" for the fancy
fair coats and embroidered waistcoats of the
Louis Fourteenth and Sixteenth periods.
1t is said abroad that this will be a
"veivet" season and that the trimmings
will be rich embroidered and passementeries
for velvet and for cloth; but | have seen
some very rich embroiderles upon clio tn
and some magnificent long, cloth cloaks
down the sides of the ely"
fronts; the plated front formed of thick
rhadames and the lining satin, with an
inter-lining of soft wool. These cloaks are
very practical. Instead Of embroidery, the
trimming may be fur or braid and the liu-
ing canton flannel, fur side out
Many Of the new cloaks simulate dress
and mantle. They are cut with skirt and
long pointed sleeves, or shoulder pieces
that form long sleeves. They are fitted in
at the back and are arranged with trim
ming. or material to simulate a basque fin
ish. Some Of these are of velvet and are
- Il.