Morning journal and courier., 1888-10-27


 tops seem to pierce the very clouds, hang castles old and new as time is measured here, and gray ruins, all like half hid nests of the rocks, magpies and sea fowl that wheel, cav and shriek around them. And then as we pass sweet Glenarm town, nestling behind the bay, the radiant village at one end of the great arched bridge, and at the other the gro tesque though imposing castle, what loving imageries the fancy paints within those lofty hill screened glsps, far in the murmurous CO., verts-Glenarm, Glencorp, Glenarif, Glen Bal1yemen, Glenanne and Glendun; where, in the shadows, those tenderest of all forgiv- ably superstitious creations, the good Irish fairies, fit and dance and hold high carnival, and never cease their happy orgies.
 From GIenarm to Fair Head the tide sweeps are most powerful, and our little craft was of necessity kept further at sea. But that grandest of all Irish east coast gi- ants, magnificent Gerron Point, was near enough to be seen in all it's stately grandeur. Rising to 8 mighty height almost straight out of the waves, three lofty and symmetric pinnacles, united by wall like ranges of ba- salt, crown it above the nearly perpendicular escArpments like tremendous and perfect wrought ramparts. Near to it lowers the ancient fort of Dusmsul like grim outpost at it's feet; while close at hand are the pie turesque hsbitations of the coast guard and the little fishing station. To the north lies Red bay, huge curvature of the sea- with it's caves and ruined castle; and we are soon abreast of Cushendall on the great coast road of Antrim. beside the river Dall and at the bottom of the romantic glen of Ballymena. Behind are the lofty hills of Lurgeidan, green from it's summit to it's blanched chalk base, the splendid Tievebuelli soaring to the clouds, and beyond the majestic Trostan, from whose peak lone Errigal on the western coast can be dimly discerned. Cushendall is noted for two things; one pleasant legend, and the other pleasing fact. On a fair meadow which reaches to the edge of it's lit- tie bay, Dall, mythical Scottish or Danish giant king intruder, was cut down by the sickles of the meadow reapers, or dispatched by the valorous hand of the poet Ossian him. self; and the famous Cushenda1l ponies have been from time immemorial bred in all the region round about They are 8 branch of the Shetland Islands family; but far stockier and hardier than the former. They run wild in the mountains among the white heads and heather; or are herded by boys and dogs, as are the sheep in all the north coun- ties. The annual "round ups" as with our strange and almost unknown wild "bankern ponies of the Carolina banks, form most in- teresting and exciting episodes in these re- mote northeastern districts. Oroe in the hands of their captors the animals, which when wild in the heather are most vicious, like the Sable Island ponies whose progeni- tors were the same as of these, immediately
 
 degree of servility. Buyers come from all parts of the United Kingdom to the fairs where they are exposed for sale; and you will see them harnessed to carts of moderate bur then in the principal English and Irish towns as commonly as the donkey itself, which is very common indeed.
 Rounding Fair Head, we were swept along at an alarming speed by the great force of the tide between Ballycastle bay and Rathlin Island, which the legends say is the remains of great series of stepping stations for the devil end the olden giants between Scotland and Ireland. Be that it may, it is 8 sad region in which to finger in 8 frail craft upon opposing tides; and felt far lighter hearted when we came slowly and safely around great Bengore Head, and sailed lazi1y as upon mountain walled lake past the far famed Giants Causeway and the stately remains of the once mighty Dunlucs castle; within a rife shot of the whole long panorama of pil- lars until the weird and romantic Sksrries were reached. And in the interests of truth may the shades of magazine writers forgive mo for bit of hsalthy iconoelasm concern ing this spot, which has been written, illus trsted and illuminated" into one of the worlds wonders. It is not one. Only in geologic sense can it be thus classed. From one end to another of the entire pillared coast there is not lofty height-the Plea skin alone excepted, and that rises but three hundred and seventy feet-nor 8 single grand scenic formation. From the sea it has the appearance of dingy honey comb set hat against the water, it's waxy, dreary, level top an abrupt insult to a throbbing Irish sky. have stumbled for days about the crumbling bases of the Little, Middle and Grand Cause ways; loitered about the Giants Gateway and Loom; tried to imagine with the fertile brained guide book makers the musical gi- ants seated at the Giants organ; wandered up and do VII the Shepherds path fingered x-vifh Eond of in ha Giants Amphitheater; sndeavored to realize the appropriateness of appellation in the Giants chimney tops; wandered in tortuous ways about the really fine (and that ia alb Pleaskin; skirmfshed with importunate guides; traversed the mazes of diplomacy with curio peddlars; quieted in the gingling old way the wailings of beggars; humbly paid awful penance for an instant's glimpse within hotels; realized the inevitable at the hands of instantaneous photographers who caught me in the very vortex of these ba- saltic jaws; and at last leisurely and earnest ly studied the entire roek-palisaded shore under the best possible conditions, at sea; and I have no hesitancy in saying that there is not five mile reach of Irish coast from Maln Head to Bantry bay, and from Cape Clear to Bengore Head, that does not some where indefinitely surpass it in every essence and feature which, in scenic marvel, charms the eye, thrills the heart, and exalts and ex-
 
 ply and only geologic curiosity; presenting occasionally interesting effects to the eye, but never iu single instance inspiring the mind of one wholly in his right mind with awe and wonder;-any more than should many crystals of sand, many blades of grass or many cubes of coal. Without its mirth- provoking legends of Fin Mac Coul and the rest of the giants 1t would be to all, save those who profit by it with more savage per tinacity than like bandit at Niagara, a weary and dreary place indeed. And because of l this needed, though perhaps unwelcome, | light on dark place, in leaving it and the ] Skerries, as we sail around the wilder north, | let me sing best may one of these whis- pered, sunny legends which I not long ago heard among the peasants in the silent val. | leys of the Rnishowen hills:
 In long ages ago, when the frs of Sieve Snaght
 e Temorian H kng with the the sdrooth'' on him hot Had fall out with all of old Scotia's shebeens.
 For the full of my belly of Tale 'mountain dewi' "Ye woulds" says the divil, as in smoke he up
 By my troth' says the king. as his eyes brighter Then it's doner' says Old Nick. Lave the world
 For yer sswi (tae poreen9 yell have oceans then Heaven bless ye for that; an ye're welcome, tc So they stood in a trice on Rathlin's dark isle. ''D'ye mind," says the Evil One, pointing towards Foyle,
 Those mountains beyond, hid in msts ever gray, Iris the wild byes know trick full of style | And heavens own dew falls by night and by day | By this token I'll smash those bold headlands & l wider'-
 The great Causeway uprose in whisk, fairy ! gaade.
 With bound the King-Giant had gone from hi l side;
 Aud Old Nick (who Scotch) feeling shame fo l his trade.
 Ever since stays at home. While the king in hi | pride
 With the byes on tho heights and with life eve l green,
 Sings: "Luck to ye, Nick wid my sowl in yer hide | In fair Donegafs craze I'll brew aye my poteen!
 EDGAR L. WAKEMAr. |