Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1888-06-09
- 60
MOURNING DRESSES,


ititllS dhtIS'
Striped crepe dc Chine woven very
thin is the new fabric for summer
mourning dresses. The stripes are of
different degrees of thinncss, some like
gauzc, and those next them like sum
mcr Bcngalinc, or else with corded
stripes in clusters, or hair lines on a
thin stripe next a border stripe, or per
baps every other stripe is lightly en-
bruidcrcd; broad stripes over IN inch
wide are considered most stylish.
There are also barred China grapes
that are very handsome, the bars
being like open rows of braid, and the
ccntcrs crinkled like japanese Grape.
The plain China grapes are now made
in very fine qualities, and are 50 en-
tirely without lustcr that they are
chosen for the most elegant toilcttcs to
be worn in the deepest mourning.
Grenadines have been little used for
two or three years, bat are now re-
yiycd in great variety. For first deep
mourning are ~scwing-silk grenadines
Of plain surfaces, so closely wovcn that
they do not require silk beneath them;
lighter qualities are like silk muslin,
and the gaze de Chambery is Il similar
fabric Of glossy thin silky black. The
opcn-mcshed silk and wool Hermann,
with all the armurc. canvas and iron
grenadines, is again used, either quite
plain or else with new striped patterns
alternately like Grape, or like Bcnga-
line Of the twilled peau de sole, each
stripe from II to two inches wide,
making effective patterns for over
dresses above plain grenadinc skirts.
For those who dislike stripes are fig
ures of Greek keys and large balls,
or Gothic arches of dull silken surface
sunk in open armure grounds, and
there are many Spanish lace designs
woven quite thick on their surfaces that
recall the fancy for brocades. The
more Opaque camel's hair grenadines
have a hem-stitchcd border along one
sclvage TO use for trimming, and these
excellent fabrics are also striped and
barred in many ways. For half mourn
ing the more lustrous silk grenadines
have ribbon stripes of taileta edged
with white, or else they have double or
triple lines of white woven in twills.
Nuns yailing remains the popular
summer fabric for mourning, lust as
Henrietta cloth is for winter dresses.
It is of varied thicknesses, and has is
own trimming in its wide selyaec,
which is always an inch in width, and
in the better qualities is two or even
three inches wide. There arc also
many striped vailings, those with
rcpped silk, like Bengaline, being very
handsome. For evening dresses worn
in mourning the large-mcshed Brussels
nets are used in layers, as tullc is mr..
ranged, also in plated flounces with
ribbon trimming. India silk is worn
in solid color in deep mourning, but,
even in its best qualities, is not found
so satisfactory rs that with white
figures; it becomes 'stringy," and doe,
not wear well otherwise. Bayonnaisc
is II barege-like fabric much used b,
French modistcs for summer mourn.
ing.
For thicker fabrics tamise cloth ~
smooth plain surface and pure wool i,
chosen for seaside and mountain wear,
while for travelling are Cheviots o
light quality, bison cloths aud scrges
or else the Sicilienne mohairs that re-
semble alpaca, but are more broadl,
woven, like the baskct-wcavinr once :,
popular.
English Grape is less used for trim
mings for summer gowns. and man,
families object TO it altogether. usin,
folds and plaitings of the dress GOOD
with dull jet and ribbons instead. Tn,
dull lusterlcss gros-grain ribbons ar
excellent trimmings for nuns yailin,
and India silk dresses, while ram,
ribbons are used ON black net LII,
per's Bdsan