New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-10-07
THE FASHIONS.
MANS WINTER WARDROBE.
LITTLE CHANGE FROM LAST SUMMERS STYLES
YOUNG sNoBLEY's THEORY.

YOUNG sNoBLEY's THEORY.
"Dcuced unlucky weather for the tailors, hey old
MANI laughed young snobley to his friend DO
Ruyter, they sat looking through the club window
last week at the pedestrians hurying along tho
avenue with their overcoat collars turned up almost
to their cars "Its worth couple Of hundred to me,
though, young snobIey went on, with another cheer
full chuckle "Old Boulder would certainly have got
me to buy lot Of fall olothesfor Indian summer you
know, or something Of that midland then made 'em
so thin couldn't 'em In winter But this time
tell him that IT'S winter enough for me already
and he'll have to put those fell styles away until next
spring.
a. really don't see, anyway, old man." continued
the embodened expert, after he had refreshed HIM
self with little brandy and Soda " why any one who
loads himself up with lot of clothes In the spring
need bother his head about these fall fashions
Snobley's season at Bar Harbor had left him rather
fattened out and his thoughts were running in
strangely economical channel.
IL think I'll tell old Boulder it's nonsense spring
ing these autumn things There's nobody In
town until November nowadays, and fellow ought
to have chance once year to wear out his old
clothes, even II no is member Of the Fopr Hundred
"Just so, Just sou responded De Ruyter, little
gIoomy. He too, had been trying to play poker on
a couple Of summer yacht cruises, and his thoughts
were not lingering on the fashions.
Young snobley's theory IS heretical, doubt, but
the tailors will admit that there a good deal
of truth in It, There apparently little demand for
distinctvely fall styles and 1t is getting harder each
year to distinguish between autumn and winter
fashions. Separate spring and summer wardrobes
found to be and more indispensable, as
spring becomes fixed town season and summer
out-oftown But autumn is still a mongrcl time
of year In America, belonging neither to the country
the town. 1t IS, as far fashion goes, practi
cally castof season, devoted, snobley suggested
to the wearing out Of old clothes Most patterns
in mems clothes offered by the tailors this fall
merely the regular winter wear and the recent per-
sisent Of equinoctia weather has only FASTENED
the almost imper'epo.e charge from the seasons
styles to the others.
There has been no revolution In styles since the
spring and summer fashion plates were printed. In
fact would have to be something Of expert to
distinguish this winters models from last winters
The full dress suit, which rarely changes at ALL will
show we'll any other the measure Of this years
variations. Broadcloth has been used less and less
for dress coats for several years, and now is barred
out altogether Fine vale diagonal worsted coatings
have been substituted for It by nearly all the taors
Some coats however, made Of what are called
undressed worsteds," which look good deal like
finely woven chevots. The lapels of a dress coat
should be faced with silk to the edge Usual but
the shawl shaped roll is going out Of vogue and
pointed lapes are coming in again. The edges Of
the coat bound with a fine cord. The waistcoat
is still cut I'm the shield shape but trhe less OF
tho shirt front is made TO show. Either black or
white waistcoats may BE The white ones arc
now often embroidered and even tinted. All have
three buttons. The still cut rather wide
and have broad stripes down the outside seams
novelty suggested this year is bit of embroidery
down this stripe. But no such radical departure
from the simple severity Of evening dress Is likely
to be tolerated here. Few people like TO get dress
suits every year and the most daring OF fashion plate
makers soon finds 1t scarcely pays to waste his time
experiments with the conventional model OF
claw hammer A dress suit Of winter weight
will cost about s110.
In styles for day wear-half dress-the rivalry still
continues between the doube-beasted frock coat ana
the cutaway. The double breasted frock or Prince
Albert seems to be holding its own comfortably.
Stout Aeshy men, who know when they have a good
thing stick to It In spite OF all the ridcue cast on
IFS ungainlness and crinolne like qualities Chevios
and diagonals dark coors used for frock coats
this fall The coat buttons close to the body and the
inner faces are lined with silk far as the button
holes. The edges are finished with narrow nat
binding The waistcoat scarcely shows, the coat
buttonlng high Light colored striped or plaid
trousers are worn with a Prince Albert This coat
IS good for any morning afternoon use, but is no
more appropriate dressy at any time than cutaway
No young man, certainly should wear Prince Albert
frock coat suit costs from 500 to S1Oo
The three button cutaway is perhaps tho most
popular of all the coats made. 1t can be USED
for halfdress for business. This difference
should be insisted upon, however. The cutaway for
business wear IS generally made OF rougher cloth
and should always have flaps at the waist seams
tbs hafdress coat has the flaps There Is ALMOST
no change In the shape of the three button cuaway
Some four-button coats made now, and one
tba
rails used for cuaways this winter are worsteds chev
iots and diagonals The coats for business wear
may be made in checks and stripes as dazzling as
tennis players blazer, and some OF tho comDiha
lions of coats waiscOats and trousers already turned
out are likely melt the snow along the Avenue
next February. Striped plaid or check trousers, the
lighter In color the BETTER are to be worn with
these cutaways cutaway suit should cost about
$50.
Sack coats for winter are cut much the same
as the summer were, and except that the cioth
Is heavier, scarcely notice any difference
The widest kind of patterns in paids, stripes ana
checks are still I'm favor and II the fashion makers
can help It, there will be few men dressed In biack
seen in the streets this winter. 1t Is not at all
necessary to have ones trousers match even sack
coat. Any piece of clothes may be worn Win
any other, and a wardrobe can thus be easily ex
banded In a sort OF geomerical progression Waist
coats are made up In all sorts OF rough, lightcoi
ored goods and some Of the patterns are almost
as daring and at the same time as dazzling as the
skirts of the ballet dancers in Nero.' waistcoat
OF silk mixings fancy cashmere sutings costs nom
$40 to $15. sack coat, with wastcoat and trousers
to match, or not, can be bought for about $40
There is almost change in the cutting OF trousers
For light overcoat the Chesterfield, or hy-front
sack, is the only style really in the field This coat
is rather close fitting one, reaches nearly to the
knees and rolls open in front, showing SILK facngs TO
the buton-holes. The heavy sack overcoats, Do'h
single and double breasted, Will be shaped much like
the Chesterfield. few long frock overcoais are stlll
turned ont for extreme weather. They have been
largely suppanied, however, by the cape overcoats
Of fancy suitlngs The cape has come to stay Tor
a WHILE apparently, though this climate In winter Is
TOO uncertain for heavy and cumbersome an over
garment A sip gle breasted sack overcoat Is good
.iIna1. ,rIrf use