Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1888-09-15
FALL DRESS.
FASHIONS DICTATES FOR THE
COMING SEASON.
Sensible and Simple Garments the
Rule-The Tournure, Directoire,
Empire and La Tosca Costumes.
Fashion writer in New York star.l

There having been no end of talk and
inquiry regarding the question of the tour
nure, and whether or not dresses will still
be made with reeds across the back breadth
of the foundation skirt, | have been to all
the leading retail and wholesale houses
and seen all the importations for this fall,
and | can state positively that the tour
nure will still be worn. All the imported
cloaks, jerseys and suits are made for Just
the same amount OF hustle that we have
been wearing through spring and summer.
The suits are made with reeds or steels in
back, although different modistes vary both
the number and the way of placing them !;
some using two, others three, and others
again four, but they all obtain virtually
the same effect, and tha5 Is modified tour
nure, enough TO lift the skirts 4 few inches
from the back, relieving you from the heat
and weight, and giving u foundation upon
which to arrange and drape the skirt.
Women's dresses were never made more
sensibly than at present, being just long
enough to escape the ground and save the
braid and facing from being cut out or
soiled. The skirt is in the standard four
gored shape, with black breadth, across
which the reeds arrange and hold in place
the customary boufant back-should be
about two and one-half yards around the
bottom Ca trife wider for very stout
women. This width gives ample freedom
in walking, yet there is no unnecessary
fullness, and there is Just sufficient hustle
to support the weight and give a graceful
contour to the back of the skirt and
drapery, which latter can be most efectu-
ally arranged and firmly tackled to the
reeds in the lining.
Fashion is this season certainly upon the
side of the economical woman and home
dressmaker, for her edict is that skirts must
be much more simply made and trimmed
than they have been for some time, and
also allow wearing waists different in color
and material from the skirts. Blouses of
maroon and dark red, of surahs or foulards,
look beautifully with black silk or cash
mere skirts, and which of US hasn't several
skirts bereft of their bodices that can be
turned and made over for house or home
wear with one of those pretty blouses? OF
course any pretty contrast or combination
of skirt and waist can be used, according to
ones taste and the wardrobe.
For more elegant occasions there are the
Directoire jackets. From the front edge
of these the boa directoire revers are
turned back from the neck to a little below
the bust (about two inches from the waist
line). Between the revers is visible the
closely-titted waistcoat Tor vest, which is
longer than the jacket, showing about two
inches below it, Thus you see consider
able of the vest, which may be of differ
ent material, or can be richly embroidered
in gold or silver, or else covered with
braid
The fall fashions show three distinct
lively new styles of dresses-the Directoire
toilette, the Empire gown and La Tosca
costume.
The special feature of the Directoire
costume is the waist, the broad revers and
high collar and cuffs. These are always of
the same material as the waistcoat, which
is usually different from the body of the
toilet often not only of different mate
rial, but of contrasting color. Three large
buttons decorating the front below the re-
vers are, in fact, one feature in the Direc-
toire gowns, ard may be of silver or gold
tilagree, or of French porcelain hand
somely painted to match the costume.
They are elegant but very expensive.
The second style, or Empire gown, is
quite new, having short (or round) waists
made with all the seams and darts re-
quired for snug, basque-like fit, with full
surplIce-ike pieces sewed in at the
shoulder seams and arranged broadly on
the fronts, crossing each below the bust.
A velvet facing covers the visible portion
of the front between the SUPPLIES, simu-
lating a vest which may be framed by a
prettiiy shaped rolling collar of velvet
that extends to the bust with the effect of
gevers.
The sleeves either have a puff at the
TOP or are cut slightly full and gathered
on top before sewing into the arm hole;
and the fullness at the hand is confined by
several rows Of stirring forming the cuff.
The straight round skirt goes with the
costume, and may be bordered or trimmed
around the bottom. 1t can be plated on
the band or have at the top five rows of
stirring IAN inch apart, forming a deep
yoke of shirring, and is sewed firmly to the
round waist, about which, as a finish. is
Worn broad sash or girdle of ribbon or
surah, fastened at the left side and having
two long ends and loops falling and hang
ing straight down nearly to the bottom of
the skirt This is very pretty and SIM
pie way to make your house dresses.
The third style, La Tosca, which NAV
be said to be a modified Directoire, has the
basque front opened and finished with
revers which reveal shirred vest front 4:
and has a broad girdle finishing across the
waist giving short WASTED appearance.
although in reality it is cut rather long
wasted.
Do not be induced to place full ruche
at your neck. Use instead black OF white
picot-edged ribbon Ga color is not good
form i; or else bias fold (milliner' folds
are good) Of crepe lisse, crepe de Chine or
boiling cloth; or any of the many fiat
band ruchings that are found in the dry
goods stores; only don't wear anything
that is tiouncy, or that stands out from the
neck; and be particular to wear the same
ruching in the sleeves that you have at
the neck.
Cloaks this season are very elegant, and
the preference seems to be for very long
garments, PREACHING to the bottom of the
dress. Shapes in long cloaks are much
more elegant than any we have ever had.
an! they are made of handsomer and more
costly fabrics, are deliberately trimmed and
have Innings of silk, sometimes of contrast
ing color. Elegant carriage wraps will be
lined with handsome brocades of SNOWY
colors thus making them both sumptuous
and gorgeous in the extreme. There are.
of course, many styles of short wraps, but
nothing prettier than the trim, neat tailor
made walking jackets. This last is some
times finished with military trimmings of
metal, silk or wool braid.
The most elegant thing in handkerchiefs.
both for ladies and for gentlemen, is the
plain white styles, which, as well as all
your linen, should have fac smile of
your signature embroidered upon it in