Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-08-18
Copyrighted 1881

Island OF GRAND MASAS August IL, 1888
Tnere cannot be found In sight OF American soil
more beautiful and interesting region than that
"nefe the river 81. Croix sweeps down In broad
eApanse 70 the sea, and from where the mouth Of
tne little Pemaquan, under the old Pembroke
bridge. IL lost In the great western arm OF the
fasssnaQuoddy. which leaves the western shore
Oh tne splendid peninsula at whose Moose
island point our easternmosr city, the me
Topons OF the herring. pleasant-streeted
than s,rSer s'a an the Narragansst; Is sasssr
ntm. the Cooscook; but It's shores lack much OF
Their weird and fascinating beauty. Here are In
granite; coves OF the rarest. unsmirched, almost
primeval winsomeness; headlands grim and
monssrous as on Laoradors coast with constant
nelds; perspectivss from all points Of view where
emerald spears from hill and mountaIn-top into
Msscniess blue OF SKY; and tides whose height,
Aside from this there Is that rare and witching
historic interest giving all these q two-fold life
and charm Here at Pleasant Point, on the st
Crotx. where good Captain Ballast has brought
inal tribes once possessing this region the Passa-
maquoddy Indians The captain regards them
~auv'ment orter run every blessed brute on 'em
o1en Quoddy Head inter the oceanI But the
faces back TO a time when another race intruding
upon the rightful domain OF this one, were often
compelled 70 do the same nimble act from OLD
boundary line, which the geographers trace In the
center OF the St Croix, and thence through the
primeval forests toward the St. Lawrence, more
dipiomacy has been exercised than that resultant
from wars with Great Britain. Here upon Neu-
trail Island between the protecting shores Of the
In 1904, to set the lilies OF France above
their little forts and gardens as sign OF their royal
TO the mouth or Ss
Hudson And on this same Neutral Island the In
ternational commissioners In 1913, under the
fortifcations, probably relics OF the tenth century
Norsemen, and also determined the river TO be the
At PASSPORT, and In the nunberless contiguous
coves and bays, one receives the first real con-
sciousness OF the tremendous volume Of water
which semi-daily pushes In from and again recedeS
TO the sea- It's measurement Is almost past com.
putation. and Is positively astounding. Think OF
perhaps 200 square miles OF water from "a to %
feet In depth taking Its place and disappearing
from given area twice every twenty-four hours!
happened to ruminaIinyiy mention this view OF
II 10 Captain Ballast. IL seemed 10 startle him.
He had known IL all every day OF his life but had
never once senSed it, II that verb may be coined
No more had any other seaman or landsman OF the
locality. He put about instantly, as II moved by
where the St Crolx is a league In width, and
asked him in some alarm what the sudden move
ment meant
"Ef ts tides yer arter I'll take 'ee less m two
hours whar tide makes in sech bolin n roarin
as II make yer hair riz y he answered glowingly.
TIDE PASSAGE.
That was the place I wanted to ind; and Cap
tain Ballast kept his word Sailing down the st.
Croix into the Passamaquoddy, we swept around
the circling wharves OF Eastport, and on into the
picturesque Cobscook Bay. Along It's west
ern shore, perhaps half way TO the "head
Stand almost wSo snass out she passage
OF the tides to and from large land
locked basin Of possibly 80 square miles in
est and least Of Names villages cluster In dainty
coves and ravines. At low tide much OF this basin
bronze; but at full Of the tide vessels OF almost
any draught might sail or make any landing at
Will This great expanse Is filled from the sea and
again emptied twice each day. The immediate
locality OF the gorged passage, including the
rocky island, Is known as Crows Neck, for 1t Is
seasons Of the year. Between the island and
the mainland TO the south Is q level reach over
which the water passes without obstruction at
place 100 yards wide, and many sunken lodges OF
rock jut up here and there with ugly suggestive
the edge Of a deserted farm-nsd pciat Of huge &c
rocks which set like gigantic spur into and above
the tide,passage We had come up with the tide.
grand sweep, creeping here and there with angry
hastings among the cavernous depths Of the
passage.
With the consciousness OF the mighty forces be-
yond and the whole Atlantic at their back, and
realizing what must irrevocaDly be hurled through
and over this nideous chasm, ones fancy easily
gives fantastic individuality 70 attacking and Cd
sea- resentrsl OF their endless forays this stub
born spot, were possessed Of added malignancy,
Of me ipcomins bay now ss Tor irreslse oe
slaught, and then charge furtouSly. Breaking into
countless ferocious legions their forces sweep and
shriek, and, defeated. rush silently away
Again, again and again are these charges OF the
n an Sen, time be enirs iolee and 10
the great basin Is wholly covered, with such I'm
petuosity has the tide stormed the chasm. For
the same space, even at Niagara for active maiey-
0lence and demonstration Of the awful power OF
IS positive fearfuSess TO the ssoutess hears IN
watching the whlriing, swirtng, crashing rips
and maeistrons splitting upon the rocks and toss
the air with piercing screams, while the hoarse
believing OF the migntier volumes through the
wides spaces Is utterly beyond description. so
tremendous Is this
CONFLICT or THE WATERS
that frequently the air above Is white with mist
as with smoke OF a mighty battle. The desolate
lofty headlands, the overgrown fields from which
the horror OF the spot has actually driven the
farmer owners OF yore, the stunted pines and
spruce, the dreariness and grewsomeness OF the
place where scores OF lives have been lost ann
many aNenturesone cralt pulverlZed Ike stick
OF punk; the believing, screaming and roaring OF
the waters all contrive a scene and sound or sur
passing dread and horror. But 10 all this Is added
the indescrbable actions OF myriads OF crows
which, as II their diaboiical natures were fired TO
the highest frenzy as the tide struggles increase
IN intensity, whiri wheel and dart above the mist
like q cyclonic cloud OF inky blackness. uttertng
from their orazen Threats such hideous shrieks
and carvings as, at times. even outcry the mad
dened elements below. No SHORES can show an
other such battle OF the tides The s.Infernosy
widest imagery and picturings cannot furnish q
more hideous ana terrifying spectacle.
GEsND MANAN.
After days coasting about the beautiful and
picturesque Campobello Island, which Is rapidly
becoming formidable rival to Bar Harbor and
Mount Desert; climbing to the rocks over old Her.
ring Cove, where the redoubtable Admiral William
ff1wflliam Owen built his famous QUARTERBACK
70 parade In full uniform for the admiration OF
nshermen below, and q stroll In the quaint Old
ehurch-yard where many OF the noble family are
now at rest we set sail from Quoddy Head back
along our own w1nSome coast, and thence to that
.yery throne OF the bold and romantic the noble
island OF Grand Manan. Perhaps twelve miles to
the southwest OF PASSPORT, IL stands a gigantic
sentinel before the entrance TO the Bay OF Fundy
IL Is y miles In length, from three 70 seven miles
VIDE, ana rises, with few exceptions OF beach and
cove, precipttately out OF the sea 70 Q height Of
over 400 feet From every side It's cliffs at q dis
lance present the most marvellous combinations OF
near any American shores
WONDERFUL EYYscm
There are effects here which cannot be painted
They are only 70 be seen and felt To illustrate
some great artist may have the genius to put on