The Washington critic., 1888-05-02
THE CRITIC" ABROAD.
How the Easter Holidays Were Oh.
served in Paris.
SCENES IN THE CHURCHES
n Wealth of FIowers-CuriositIcs
of the "Jardin d'Acclima-
tation."

PARIS, FRANCE, April Is, 1ssS.-The
French are very fond of fairs, and "ehe
fun of the fair is nowhere enjoyed as
in Paris. The most important is the
Ham Fair, an old institution held in
The Place de la Bastile one of the
largest open spaces in Paris. Every kind
of ham bearing any reputation is sold.
You have your choice between pork
pies, snusages and other combinations
INTO which the privileged pig has been
allowed to enter. Much amusement was
afforded by the sellers Offering morsels of
ham upon iron prongs to those desiring
TO become better acquainted with their
wares. Cheese was also found among
these indigestible nice bits. There are
over 200 pork butchers in this city, and
The number is increasing every year. The
ni1nbleness of the sellers was not con-
bned 70 the ham vendors. Antique arti-
cles of great value, and of no value, were
TO be found in this classical fair. Old
pictures, books, coins out of date long
ago, old iron, evidently brought from ali
the hooks of the country, pieces of
armor, and, in fact, every thing was to
be found by the visitor. Lotteries
tempted the speculative, and very pretty
was the display of glass and
China. The articles offered for
sale, though often of an inferior charac-
fer were worth. the prices paid for them.
The, middle classes spend their money
freely at these fairs. As far as the eye
could reach motley group was pre-
sented. The most sensible man was the
vend er, seated under an umbrella, sell
ing the article, which has been more gen
orally used than any other, during the
past eight weeks. Peeping out from
under an umbrella is not the most agreea-
bic way to see Paris, but when the ques.
tion arises to see, or not TO see, the
traveller decides to venture forth with all
the requisites that invention has been
able to propose for the use of man in wet
weather. The Gingerbread Fair begins
to-day and will last three weeks, SUNDAYS
included. Immense quantities of this
iavorite bread are to be seen in the win
dows of all groceries. These fairs possess
one good, feature, as they contribute q
considerable sum to the relief of the
poor, in the1orm of rent paid by the stall-
keepers.
HOLY WEEK.
Holy Week was observed by thousands
who gathered in the various magnificent
churches of this metropolis to visit the
''Tombs.' That at Saint Roch was the
most beautiful. This church is one of
The grandest in Paris. Its statuary and
paintings as well as its architecture inn
press the foreigner even more than the
silent majesty of Notre Dame. The
"Tomb' was placed in the Chapel OF the
Virgin behind the choir You looked
through vista formed by three altars
The first held the golden candlesticks
tho stcond represented the birth of the
Saviour in purest marble, while above
was mass OF gilt. in the form of rays of
light, intermingled with fieecy clouds, in
which rested the bright, happy faces of
cherubs. The third represented the Cru
cjiixion, with two figures below, one Of
the Virgin. Only the Cross with the
Saviour could be seen through the vista,
aud the church is of such i'm
mense proportions that it appeared
as though the scene upon Calvary was
wrapped in shadow. On either side of
this central group were artificial rocks
and figures, representing the principal
scenes ofthe Passion. At the right were
six figures in marble, three of which were
carrying the Saviour into the sepulchre,
while the opposite group represented the
mailing of Christ to the cross and the
women weeping beside him. Every ex-
preston was so beautifully portrayed by
The sculptor that the figures seemed real,
and the surroundings were so perfectly in
keeping that the whole effect was beyond
cross was beautifed by blooming plants
in all colors, and candles gave the only
light to this strangely impressive scene.
There were many churches where the
"Tombs" were decorated with showy
tapers and choice flowers. AT the Cathe-
dral of Notre Dame high mass was
solemnized with great pomp, and the
sacred relics were exposed to view.
EASTER.
Easter in Paris was not as gay as one
might have expected. For several weeks
the millinery shops had been resplendent
with their pretty bonnets and launty hats,
but alas the weather did not favor the
thousands who promenaded along the
great boulevards and winter overcoats
and mantles were necessary to the com
fort of humanity. The florists shops,
however, were most attractive, massive
eggs made of Parma violets yellow
daisies and white lilacs, filled with eggs
daintily covered with satin in contrasting
shades, and birds lowering over them,
were added to the novelties Of the florists
winuows. While flowers in numberless
variety were to be seen on the bouleyards
and in the markets, the churches were
little decorated with these breaths of
glittering tapers and magnificent vest
ments to show forth the gores of Easter
One strange feature of
THE vEsPER SERVICE
was professional composed of thirty
women robed in white and envelopcd in
wells. These were chosen from the women
of the Parish as excelling in purity of
character and Christian virtues. After
these walked little boys dressed in scarlet
and white, followed by twenty sisters in
dresses al
carrying .long lighted tapers. A canopy
of embroidered white satin surmounted
with four punches of white ostrich
plumes was carried over the priest bear
ing the crucifix. A number of priests in
rich vestments completed this beautiful
professional. The music was simply
grand. A full orchestra accompanied 'by
two organs formed the instrumental part,
whilst soloists, assisted by choral choir,
rendered the Creation Around the
doors Of the sacred edifice and on the
pavement and steps leading to the church
stood
NrMBERLEss BEGGARs,
women with infants IN arms, and old
men, bent overwith the weight of years.
In coming ont of Saint Rock we counted
ihirty'six Of these forlorn creatures, and
many more stood below us. Beggars
have . general license to solicit aims on
certain great church festivals, and Mt
such times they besicge you around the
entrances TO all churches, Though the
lame, the blind and the MANNED are rep
resented, you seldom meet face which
tells OF such suffering as you see upon the
London streets. The beggars in Paris are
neatly dressed, many Of them wear head
GOV erings, and are in striking contrast to
the msserably wrotohed creatu res seen in
The poorest section of London On the
broad porch Of the Madeleine, in place of
beggars, stood
FLOWER GIRLS
before stahs literally filed with the