Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-12-28
LADIES' COLUMN.
A Budget Of News and Notes Fresh
from Many Sources.
Dress Philosophically Considered Hints
for Toilets Wedding Fripperies
and Bridemaids' Finery.

LOT the past week SWayeu ny IL slHSle
thought, that finds expression in shop
ping expeditions and ofttimes, almost pa
thetic utterance in burden bearing men
ard women, Odd shaped bundles are
seen, and there is no surmise as to their
significance. They contain as much
pleasure as can be put into parcel. In
addition the women have had an abun-
dance of their favorite occupation of
shopping, and have Toasted their eyes
and emptied their purses amid the glories
of the shops that at no season are so bril-
liantly seductive as during the month
of December. Nor is this attract
iveuess confined to such exhibits
as come under the head of holiday pur-
chases, but on the prosaic line of clothes
the counters of the dry goods merchants
have their special temptations over which
shoppers are wont to hover, and should
wives drop some hint of pretty dress or
cloak the ear of the husband often needs.
In fact, the elegant materials displayed
are enough tG turL the soberest head and
the har,nonies md Col yrasts in color are
bewildering in their beauty.
Indeed, the long, close-fitting cloaks,
with their bands of fur, are very entic-
ing and there can be no mistake in pur-
chasing, as they are the rage. These are
shown in two shapes:
The Russian mantle, with long over
sleeves reaching to the edge of the dress,
Is the favorite, and is made in number
of different materials, but chiefly i'll
broche cloth, with fur or passementerie
trimmings-these last, although of plain
silk, are wonderfully rich, and some
times so elaborate that they cover con-
siderable portion of the mantle. The
sleeve generally falls straight from the
neck but in one new model it is mounted
with beaded box plat on the shoulder,
and joined with folds to the front and
back of the mantle as far as the waist.
The long cloaks have au added value,
that they are economical as well as styl-
i5h, enabling one to wear with perfect
safety dress not far removed from shah
biness.
The commendable tendency of present
modes is that it is in q sensible direction,
suitability and appropriateness being its
strong points The toilet for the draw
ing-room does not in the least resemble
the dress worn upon the promenade, and
the woman who confounds the one with
the other finds herself greatly at variance
with the canons of good taste and ele-
gance which happily prevail just
now. The extreme caprice, the
luxury, and elaborateness of
the home and evening toilet are finely
counterpoised by the elegant and studied
simplicity of those designed for the prom
enade. The only fault of the latter
costumes consists in a recent tendency to
lengthen the skirt-a departure i'll the
wrong direction which cannot be checked
too soon. 1t is an untidy and burden
some fashion, and contrary to all laws of
sanitation. For the rest, woman IS dress
ing at home and abroad is Just now ad-
mirable. The odious tournure is reduced
to normal lines, the sleeves of dresses al
low for free action, and free circulation
of the blood through the arms; draperies
are easy and graceful, and in perfect ac-
cordance with the figure, and lacing is
almost thing of the past.
There is also 4 certain degree Of inde- q.
pendence that is permissible, and it is of
great advantage that no one is obliged TO
follow any certain undertaking methods
or fixed unalterable laws regarding their
dress. SO many and so diversified are
the phases of fashion, that it at last ap-
pears within human possibilities to satisfy
all eyes, tastes, persons and purses
And besides all the endless
styles and caprices, if some bright
genus ssof the wardrobe can evolve
from her own quick brain something yet
unthought of and attractive, so much
the better for the fair originator, whose
taste, if correct and praiseworthy is i'm
mediately commended and copied as a
tribute to her ingenuity. Some of the
most beautiful and finished toilets noted
this season have been those wherein the
designer of the gowns has exercised her
"A
Gus elements of number of toilets into
one, partakiug i'll Il degree of the phase
and effect of each Of the several styles,
without, as we have said above, making
an absolute copy of any one model.
Many women who have graceful figures
are wearing upon the promenade, stylish
tailor-made empire gowns. The bodice
portion has either Il pointed or round
WASTED effect, and to the bodice the
skirts are applied by pleats or shirrings,
or often both. A very handsome costume
of this description is formed of a beauti-
full shade of pine-green India camel S
hair, over IL skirt of suede-colored
cloth deliberately braided in green,
in intricate arabeSque devices
The corsage portion opens over a braided
vest of the same light cloth, and at the
waist is Il soft double scarf, this of dark
in color. The long ends are carried
through n large gold buckle, which ap-
pears low ou.the left side of the waist
En- suite with this costume is Il bonnet of
green cloth, trimmed with a crown band
and loops of suedc-colored velvet, over
laid with green and gold galloon.
In the preparation of elaborate winter
dress toilets, there has thus far been
shown but little novelty in the arrange
ment of the skirt portion of the gown,
either short or demi-trained. AS a COM
pensation for this, the corsage is all the
more varied; and very lovely and novel
effects, accomplished by the liberal use
of lace, tulle, velvet and flowers, are
constantly multiplying. One of the
graceful features which find special favor
in full evening toilets is the arrangement
of cream tulle on the cOrsage, known as
the Z" RerImier bertha - This is draped
like veritable cloud about THE top of
the decollete corsage. The airy scarf
is carried across the front and
back, being fastened down once in the |
middle and on each side. of the shoulders,
this making billowy puff over the Shout
ders that forms all the sleeve there is.
Another favorite method is 10 sew the |