Los Angeles daily herald., 1888-11-18

puimpe; the demi-trained skirt (withou
pad hustle and with very short steels
uas brocaded breadth straight in front
with green velvet cn each side, finished
with fringe at the fott, while tn
back of the skirt is Of the brocade
Another gown, of pale grayish blue Peaa
de sOi, has wreaths of leaves in old
ross brocaded upon it; pink Grape ii
shirred between the Tapped folds OF the
waist, and the sleeves are very large
puffs reaching half way to the elbow
the sash is of wild rose ribbon with satin
stripes on gros grain ground. White nei
or lisse dotted with large nail heads oi
Jet is used for the neck and sides Of
handsome black brocaded dresses
, There are also all-black dresses of the
satin striped moires, made up with
fronts or sides of black net, dotted with
black jet. A fringe across the foot Of
the front breadth is in keeping with the
Empire styles. and is seen on net and on
silk also. White satin front breadths
with single wide flounce of lace across
the foot are in skirts of white brocade.
New dresses for bridesmaids are of the
softest repped Sicilionnes in rose pink,
Nile green or yellow, combined with silk
null or with silk null or with lisse en-
broidered in all-over designs in colors,
usually small flowers, or else with a
broader pattern. The empire style pre-
walls in these youthful gowns, with its
round waist, high sleeves, wide sash
and nearly straight skirt that nearly
touches the ground, or is at most very
short demi-train. A pretty effect is
given by using transparent silk muslin Of
one color over silk kofcontrasting color, thus
over pink silk is yellow silk muslin softly
draped, and trimmed with a great deal
OF creamy lace in new designs like those
of real point laces. These laces also
| form the entire skirt of the hridemaid's g
gowns, and show at intervals between
the separate breadths of Directoire
coat of white brocade of some quaint
color, or else CT striped satin and gros
| grain, alternately of white satin with
rose, green or blue repped stripes from
an inch to two inches wide. The waist
of these coats is round behind, with
the fronts cut double breasted, with skirts
sloping to the sides to show the whole
front Of the lace skirt beneath. The coat
may be high in the neck, or it may be
low and round. with revers turned down
on the front; it is then worn over lace
guimpe gathered high about the throat,
and the sleeves are of lace in soft puffs
| around the arm. A soft sash of Grape
with fringed ends is then tied to hang
low in front, and may begin under the
arms or else pass entirely around the
| waist, as best suits the wearer's figure.
Another simple fashion in girlsh taste is
that of having an accordion-l leated
skirt of white wool, white net, or
white China silk to wear under
various coats or redingotes of
brocade silk or of velvet. The coat
may be half-long and of genuine Louis
Quatorze shape, sloping away to show
an embroidered waistcoat if the coat is
velvet, or lace vest with brocaded
coat. There are also light cuir-colored
camel's hair coats embroidered or beaded
almost over their whole surface. When
redingnote is used it may be of one of
the satin-striped moires, with the fronts
of the waist cut off in jacket shape, and
the vest is of the accordion -pleating
used for the skirt, held by wide gath
cred or folded belt.
Persian-fgured brocades on white
grounds are used for some of the new
evening wraps in combination with dark
velvet trimmed with fringe of the many
colors of the fabric, and also white
crinkled Chinese fur. The brocade is
used for the long mantilla fronts and the
short forms of the back, while the sides
are OF old-rose or green velvet edged with
the white fur, leaving the fringe to cross
the ends of the white mantilla fronts,
which pass under the velvet, giving very
pretty effect of double fronts. Long
cloaks that cover the wearer entirely are
Of light cloth with fur fronts their entire
length having inside pieces of some light
fur, which afford protection and COM
forJ over the thin, low-necked ball
dresses; pearl gray cloth cloaks with gill;
and steel embroidery open over fronts of
gray chinchilla, while blue fox fronts are
on a blue plush cloak. Ruby plush
cloaks are made up over glossy black
Russian lamb-skin, and are trimmed
with great deal of passemen-
terie and a new heavy black guipure
lace that has thick cords in it.
Vatican cloaks are also new for even
ing and carriage wear, made of dark bro
caded silks that are sometimes of change
able colors, and there are Irish cloaks of
| dark brocade opening over plush fronts
in bright contrasting shades, with deep
round hood lined with the gay plush A
special novelty is the black brocaded silk
cloaks with the fronts and hood lining of
green plush, while an attractive Watteau
wrap has shaded red and black brocade
with some dark red plush for it's facings.
Worth makes the skirts of day dresses
quite long this season-too long, indeed,
for walking dresses-while his carriage
toilettes rest on the floor and are almost
demi-trained. The preference for green
and for black is marked in every impor-
tation of street costumes, one of the fav-
orite shades, called empire green (also
called reed green), being much used for
the soft cloths of woolen gowns, while
brocades and plain velvets appear in
black costumes. The pale green cloths
have folded Tapped Empire waist
with velvet sleeves, broad belt of
velvet across the fronts, and V-shaped
plastron with collar of velvet; the skirt
has inlaid fronts and sides of velvet,
with some fringe and velvet across the
foot. A simpler dress of darker Floren-
tine green wool has selvage bands of dull
red feecy wool for trimming, and is
made with basque finished with box
pleats behind, but with jacket-like front,
opening over a soft vest and wide girdle
of dull red bengaline. The red selvage
band is on the reverse of the jacket and
it's collar, also on revers cuffs which open
on an inner sleeve of gathered red ben.
galine. The skirt is without a pad hustle,
but has two short steels and is trimmed