Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1888-10-05
Essex County Herald.
Y. B. BISHOP, Publisher.
A.
ISLAND POND, VT.
TERMS, $1.5O Per Year, In Advance.
FINGER RINGS.
HOW THEY ARE FASHIONED
FROM PRECIOUS METALS.
Shaping, Stamping and Setting
With Costly Stones-Ingeni-
Gus Mechanical Applian-
ces Used by Jewellers.

sometimes L tnlnk, says JeWeler TO
a reporter for the Pittsburg Dispatch,
that the adage, ''all is not gold that gilt
ters," needs to be reconstructed by
people IN our line of business, and made
to read, "all gold does not glitter" In
proof of this assertion he exhibited sew
eral pieces of gold as nearly pure as it
can be, and still be worked to good adj
vantage. The material looked very much
like old brass, and was so dingy aud
lusterless that none but an expert would
have pronounced it gold. The piece
was designed to form the top of the
ring, in which the stone is set, and was
separate. 1t is shaped like tray, hav-
ing been given this form by die or
stamp, by means of which it was cut
from piece OF rolled gold. The greater
part of these gems are cut and polished
abroad.
For weighing diamonds and other
precious stones a very delicate instru-
ment, known as the diamond scales, is
used. 1t consists of balances and is so
delicate that it will turn when a weight
equal to one sixty-fourth part of carat
is placed upon it, A carat is a weight
of four grams; the scales, therefore, are
capable of determining the weight of
any part weighing one, two hundred and
tifty-sixth part of grain. The smaller
weights used on the scales are of alumni
nun, the lightest metal known, and a
piece one sixty-fourth of carat in
weight is but small, tilmly scale that
the breath would move
The workshop is curious place, full
of ingenious mechanical appliances.
Gold coin is put in small crucible, with
fluX, and the crucible placed inside a
covered pot, which is sub jected to the
heart of powerful flame of natural gas.
TO increase the intensity of the heat
strong blast is produced by means of a
fan, making a constant, even temper
ature. Alongside the melting apparatus
is the annealing furnace.
The gold is rolled and converted into
convenient shape for use precisely as
iron is worked in a rolling mill. 1t is
passed through grooved rolls of various
sizes, one after another, until it is
fashioned into narrow strips of the
desired width and thickness. There are
also other rolls for converting the ingots
into sheet gold. For stamping the
setting for rings a screw press is used,
dies of various sizes being inserted as
required. A diamond ring is thick at
the centre, gradually tapering in size
from the top downward. A piece of
gold, after being rolled and cut, is laid
upon metal die and heavy hammer,
working in a frame and operated by
means of a rope and pulley. is mddU to
descend, thus giving with one blow the
desired shape to this part of the ring.
Hundreds of different dies are necessary
for the various styles and sizes of rings.
After the drop hammer has stamped the
gold into shape it is placed in thin
metallic plate containing hole in which
it fits exactly, and driven through by a
punch, worked by hand, thus cutting
away the gold adhering to the edges,
which is carefully saved.
All along the side of the room are
worlmen seated at benches, some shap-
inc the pieces into rings and soldering
them together, other inserting and fas-
tening the stone settings, and still others
performing various sorts of equally diff
cult and delicate work, all necessary in
the making of a ring. In another part
of the room is a curious bit of machinery,
which is called a lapidary lathe and used
for shaping or cutting down stones
when necessary. A round piece of
metal, shaped like small grindstone, is
set in horizontal position and made to
revolve. To this emery is applied, and
the stone being held against it is soon
reduced to the proper dimensions. 1t is
then polished on similar appliance of
wood coated with putty powder. An
other interesting object is the enameling
furnace. The article to be ornamented,
having previously been engraved for the
reception of the enamel, is placed in a
little oven coated with the enamel in
the shape of powder. 1t is then heated
until the enamel runs and is then re-
moved from the fire to be cooled and
finished.
A peculiar process is that of gliding,
or electro plating. The article to be
gilded is first thoroughly cleaned by a
fine brush of brass wires. A piece of
gold is attached to the positive pole of
an electric battery and the article to the
negative. Both are then placed in the
same solution and the electric current
does the work, transferring portion OF
the gold to the object to be plated.
For polishing the various articles man
ufactured there are various ingenious
devices whereon the work is done by
fine revolving brushes, some made OF
bristles and others of cotton. A machine
which has been in use for the last twenty
years, and which created revolution IL
The business is the metal lap, consisting
of two wheels charged with different
grades of emery, one for evening the
edges of rings and the other for polish
ing.
Great care is taken to prevent any
waste of the precious metal, but con
siderable loss is inevitable The dirt
which is swept from the floor is carefully
sifted and saved, and even the water in
which the workmen wash their hands il
too precious to be thrown away 1t goes
from the sink into barrel underneath,
h pipe carrying it to the bottom, and from
this barrel pipe takes it to second
and so until it has passed through four OF
five similarly arranged receptacles
Thence pipe carries the overflow to the
basement, where the water undergoes 9
like process of filtration. The amount
of gold saved, mainly from sweepings and
from the lavatory, amount to from $130C
to $1,000 per year. And a good deal il
lost beside, despite all precautions.
Fish Culture.