, 1888-05-13

indescribable grandeur and glory of this
island paradise, could it come within our
ruling, and the inexpressible hunger Of
.he universal Cuban heart to enter our
union of states.
If it is possible to make distinction,
this portion of the island-the southern
and eastern portion of the island strug-
gled so long and vigorously for freedom
holds more desperately TO hope from our
government, as against Spain, than that
portion contiguous to Havana where the
debauchery OF statecraft and the repres-
slon OF brutal tyranny render such open
expression very dangerous. But all day
long over this old Cuban road our coming
and hating and going voiced this fact of
freedom hunger in n most remarkable
way. | cannot tell as it should be told
for the large and importunate national
duty it hints at, how these kindly folk
along the way gazed on us as upon won
drous and inconceivably fortunate beings
from some heaven blessed land. Don
Manuel was a hero for his American citi-
zenship alone; and | was more than that
for my simple birthright. All, we were
Amerisansl That was the magic in it.
We crossed two rivers on our journey;
the Rio del Gaaratre, where two massive
unfinished arches told of the splendid
improvements under way a quarter OF n
century ago; and the Rio Cana, where
margin for leagues bristle with wild cane,
from which whistles, baskets and bird
cages are made for the Havana markets;
when we left the lower shore side region
for the upland districts.
For the whole distance on every hand
were flowers and luxuriant verdure brok-
en- only by the cleared grounds about low
ly and once noble haciendas, and the
reaches of cultivated fields of the estancias
or plantations devoted to general farming.
One could see from the roadside alone,
anones, mamoncillos, mangoes, guiana
banas, nisperos, wild and cultivated
oranges, tamarinds, bananas, carmltos,
mammees. Zapotas and pine apples; while
the stately star OF Bethlehem, the mign-
oDette, the vinca. the golden jasmine, the
hibiscas. the garden de noche, the flaming
f~ambOyant, the star cactus, the Carolina
tree, the campanelle, the Cherokee,
Marechal Neil and cape rose, the jacque
minot, |ionduil and lilies OF the valley, the
wild pea, honeysuckle and heliotrope and
myriads more of the almost unnamable
flor. of Cuba, dazzled the eye with color
and filled the air with matchless fragrance.
But true to the bitter contrasts every
where noticeable in the island, the road
itself was execrable beyond description.
They are all alike. Though usually en-
closed as are the American country roads,
they are utterly impossible for any man
ner of vehicles. Indeed no vehicles are
used in Cuba except in the large cities.
In this region, agriculturally the richest
portion of the island, the needs between
hundreds upon hundreds of great planta-
tons and Trinidad. have been met by
packing" on the backs of ponies and
mules for over 200 yearsl-and during
onc-iourth of the time the roads are alto
gether impossible.
Every sack of coffee, every pound of
food, every article of furniture has always
been packed" back and forth in this
s%niftless manner. The roads crook and
turn to avoid obstacles, just as the Cuban
will do six days labor to avoid one. BE
ware the pantanosl" was the warning
heard from every tongue throughout the
day. These ''pantanos' are sinks in the
soil where ones animal will plunge from
perfectly solid footing fairly out of sight.
We rescued five animals so mired with
their muddy panniers and packs, for dolo.
rous and grateful pilgrims during the day.
The "~pantanos' are bad enough, but the
deseGhOs (literallv, r~cfusals, ~avoiiances,)
bA' - ways Nhb ilJlllh
impossible places, involving serious riding
through boys and %junglcs, and not intrc-
duently goings astray in the dense forests.
The fences of these remarkable roads
are Curiou affairs. Frequently they are
OF the Spanish bayonot and the hemi-
Quen with n broad leaf and barbcd point
SIX inches long, strong enough to lmpalC
your horse. Again strips Of stone fence
will be seen. Some are of pima dc ration,
or bastard pineapple tree. But the larger
number are OF phones botiia. Green
limbs are cut from this, and when thrust
into the ground grow instantly and luxu-
riously. Between the branches the vejuco
de angarilla, a hardy vine, is planted.
This weaves i(self through and through
the hedge in all manner of fantastic and
tightening freaks, and as it bears a lovely
purple blossom, this fence is always strik-
ingly beautiful to the eye.
The overlooking hospitality of all class
es of Cubans had remarkable illustration
upon our journey. 1t is a fact that at
nearly every house along the road, singly
or in persistent groups, the occupants
begged us to enter and tarry with them.
If 1t were but for a moment, for greet
ing, good. If for a little chatter and
coffee better. If it could have been
Tor a week, or a month, best. AND TINS
was the never ending form of greeting
and invitation from the head of the
houses as he awaited us upon the high
way:
|Buenos dias, camara." Good day,
citizen. y
"Bucnos dias, amigo" C'Good day,
my friend
'%'IIastq dondc, bucno2' GLOW far,
TtNI EtP.}'l
Boy, al Aruacate." ("To the Aqua
cate district y
"Nenga a. tomar cafe. listed va muy
%leios!'
C'Eou 60 to far Remain with me for
coffee and rest. }
Again, being out of matches, and de-
string a light for our cigars, drawing up
before a casa dc vivienda, don Manuel
would shout,
La paz de Dios sea en- esta casal"
1.-THE peace OF God upon your house!')
"E yenga con vozl' ('Come you with
that blessingl'D is answered back.
"Hagame cl favor de darme Candida. "
('Favor mt with a light.")
"DeSmuntescn V tomen cafe v fuGgO.h