The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1888-07-29
SUMNER CORRESPONDENCE
GRACE GREENWOOD IN LONDON.
The Seaside Resorts of Engiand-Types OF
People ut English Watering Places.

LONDON, July 20.-Amerlcan correspond
snts in London, this summer, have dwelt
with mournful emphasis on the dull four
teen days Of social eclipse following the
demise OF Emperor Frederick. The Queens
ediet, though snscking Of absolutism, has, 1t
seems, been generally obeyed. Most men and
some women are inclined to respect such grief
<or the loss Of a son-in-law. Then the late EN-
peror was much liked and honestly respected by
English people Of all classes. A hberal-miDded
prince. without lax or visionary ideas, q soldier,
without Jinecism. he was every inch q man, to
whom the title of king or emperor could not add
suornsr 80 Why should they not noun for
that vanished life or magnificent possibilities,
and for the silent tragedy. the unspeakable pa
shos Of its endinel Except that it shed abroad
at the last an inspiring light Of Christian hero
Ism and patience, it would be all loss, there
would be no legacy or consolation left.
The mourning of English royalty is doubtless
politically sincere, but 1.-THE Queen exceptedl
scarcely profound in o human and bomely way.
The fact that while the end was imminent, the
Prince and Princess of Wales went. as usual, in
state to Ascot, and we're called away from that
Beene Of gsyety and gambline-by the news Of
the last mortal change, is significant. Catholic
princes would have been at that solemn time on
their knees. in chapel or oratory, praying for
the restoration or eternal salvation OF their great
kinsman.
1t seems to me that no one who saw Unser
Fritz as We saw him last, riding with his royal
brothers-in-lsw in the great jubilee procession,
can beerudge his august shade a little Grape,
yome heartfelt re2ret-a few tears. even. In
that Incompatible body-euard of the proud
Queen. be was the noblest. the erandest figure;
loo digni6ed and self poised, perhaps. TO be
pathetic, even to such as anew the man was
doomed-that the skeleton hand was already
his throat
the fashionable London ladies laid aside their
robes of many colors for sombre black vslvet
and silk; how they have gone about mournfully
trailing clouds Of black lace and carrying weight
of jineline Jet. But Providence grants them
consolation in their woe-stars their night Of
loyal sorrow. Never, we read. were diamonds
Seen to such an advantage and in such profusion
In Covent Garden Opera-house ss during the
late time Of heavy mourning. The MANNED
London season Is dragging its slow length along
under this malapropos dispensation, and pres
emily, If not sooner, that town of towns will be
quite deserted by rank and fashion. But will
everything endl Will London be emptyi Not
to any alarming extent. Mold will not sncrust
the stones OF Hanover square, nor rust settle
on the altsr-ralls of ST Georges. 'Green
pastures will not como to Piccadilly.
There is life enough left in London in August
to stock the world-heroic, sinful, happy,
WNobS1ouf OAilbS u NCNCLiuB
human life. Americans on their first visit. un-
fortunately beIated, need not quite despair Of
amusement Certain theaters and the music
halls are always open. Abundance is easily OBJ
tanned TO the Tower, the Royal News and New
gate Prison. Then there Is MADAME Tous.
paud, with an everfresh supply. foreign ana
domestic. OF new and CHASTITY figures in the
Chamber of Horrors. liz scientifically inclined,
there is the great British Museum. where you
can walk yourself lame. and stare yourself
blind inspecting curiosities-stuffed birds and
beasts. and picked reptiles.by the thousand,
skeletons and mummies galore,
Assyrian monuments and stolen Elgln marbles.
Then there is the glorious kensington Museum
and the National Gallery-worlds OF art and
beauty for you to explore, oh. my fortunate,
belated countrymena aud womeni
Hyde Park will still welcome you with q
wealth OF greenery and cool shade. and if you
have no knowing friend along to post YOU. you
will not Hiss the gorgeous ducal turuouts and
blue blooded aristocrats from the Drive or Row
the antiquated nigh-hung barouches, usually
yellow, conveying, with much pOmp and circum-
stance of positions and powdered footmen. an
tiqus,ed dowagers, also usually yellow; and the
titled eQues,rians. bobbine up and down in the
Row, the fair, plump Amazons packed into
what look like black bolster-cases, very short
and very tight. But you will see other fair
equestriennes. as rich though not as rare, bob
bing Just as uncomfortsbly in just as tight and
short bolster-cases. with just as generous a dis
play of booted feet, on just as bob-tailed thor
oughbreds. and with just as rotund and ru-
bicund papas, just as rigid End solemn grooms.
What our friends will miss in the park will
be the meets of the coaching clubs by the Ser
pentine. and the morning parades of the profess
sionel beauties in the walk beside the Row.
Some eight or nine summers ago people used to
flock to see the beautiful Mrs. Lanetry strolling
up and down that promenade. looking very
weet and modest. apparently unconscious that
she was running the gauntlet of curious and
critical, though mostly admiring observation.
- . !. vfasp h1nr Hotl~ ohA shno nnt
for inspection. More gracious than royalty she
seldom disappointed the people. Many whom l
knew went frequently to see her, and seemed to
find no improperly In this generous public dis
play of the lady's glowing, flowerlike loneliness;
sn exhibition which, however. must have become
very monotcnous work, not at all good fun, to
the benevolent beauty herself, before the season
was over. Those good English people saw
nothing to object to in the freely manifested ad-
miratiou of q certain royal parsonage for the
sweet Jersey Lily, for had not the fair and vir-
tucus Princess been seen TO bow to Ter quite
graciouslyi But when. a few years later. the
actress came home after her American triumphs.
aud was seen riding In the Row with Albert
Edward on her right and young Albert Victor
on her left, the same good loyal people shook
their heads In sorrowful disapproval. Yet it
was the same Lily, a little more expanded, it's
delicate petals q little scorched by the footlights.
Mrs. Lanetry is no longer the rage in Vanity
FAIR, bat to my mind she took q step upward
from Rotten Row TO the stage, from idle to la.
borious display. She is wise in her generation.
There has not been since the Merry Monarch
an English prince whose favor could compare
In money value with the patronage of an inrelli-
gent, free. independent American public, with q
prince 10 set the fashion.
A midsummer Sunday in London is trying to
Americans after the continent The whole
mighty metropolis to the unregenerate. nom
church going tourist hath but an aspect drear."
But let him be patient At nightfall those halls
of dazzling light the gin palaces, are opened,
and paint the town." not red" alone, but many
colors. There are miles on miles Of this eor-
geous. CHASTITY illumination. Open on Sunday
are Hampton Court galleries and grounds, rich
an association with English history, and the
Geological Gardens, richer in natural history. IL
ever bondage was made easy and captivity
led captive" 10 Is here in this paradise OF birds
and bears, this lordly lions court. this luxurious
~reptilian retreat Here you see saurisns Ia their
beloved mud. seals on their rocks, beavers keep
ing house comfortably, nominating conventions
OF monkeys. Dorcas societies aud Brow ing clubs
of parrots, and more snakes than were ever
dreamed of ont OF an inebriate asylum. No. not
even in the dog-aays need strangers 10 London
and the consultations OF religion Dress makers,
druggists. doctors-both Of medicine and divin-
lty-dentists and undertakers, are there still
,eady TO execute their orders with cheerful
slAcrity. Visitors can still take the coaching
excursions 10 various Interesting places. The
sholce 10 q little embarrassing. but all routes
promise well. With . contented spirit and a
little philosophy one can be jolly going almost