The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1888-12-22

Persian lamb or of leopard skins, although Of
the latter there are very few worn. The
plain seal jacket Is the best investment for
careful buyers, and averages twenty-five
inches in length, Is single breasted, fastens
by hooks and eyes, and fits as closely TO the
figure as jersey. The back is left open be-
low. the waist line, so that 1t adjusts itself to
various tournures. The sleeves are slightly
high on the shoulders, aud are made without
enffs. The standing collar Is high, and a
turned over collar may be added thereto. A
novelty this year Is the undyed seal jacket In
its natural light brown color. Seal sacks re-
main the comfortable and staple seal gar
ments, but are now given an air of style by
being made to fit more closely to the figure.
They are double breasted, with slightly loose
fronts and closely fitted backs, and are from
forty-two to forty-fve inches in length.
These sacks have shawl collar widely roll
ed, the sleeves slightly raised on the Shout
ders and finished with pointed cuffs. They
are fastened with loops and bars rather than
with buttons as formerly
The newest short wraps of sealskin COM
bine jacket and mantle or cape. These are
made In varions styles, trimmed and I'M
trimmed. Long sealskin. cloaks are fitted
more closely to the figure than formerly and
are generally left open in the back of the skirt.
The Russian coat Of seal, trimmed with sa-
Bile, Is the most luxui iOus and at the same
time the most costly wrap of the season, and
IS genuine coat, closely fitting, double
es long. Sarah Bernhardt wore one of these
coats the last time she was here. 1t was very
becoming to her TALL slender figure, and must
have cost her In the neighborhood of $500
Fur Innings are now almost entirely limited
to the useful circular and to the gay opera
cloaks, which are lined with the soft, white
crinkled fleece of the Chinese Mandarin
lamb Circulars are of ottoman silk or Of
black camePs hair. and are improved by hav-
ing an inner front fastened from top to bot
tom with h01ac in, tho 0ufo al I'm
era cl0aks are long Russian coats of fine
twilled wool in the new rosewood shades,
with white lamb skin lining and collar, or
else they are more loosely shaped like the
Irish peasant cloak, with square or flowing
sleeves, and all made of pale gray velvet,
with white Mandarin lining and collar.
Ellen Terry wore one Of these cloaks to the
opera here last winter, and she looked very
lovely In 1t, too.
Muffs are larger this year. They are
about as large as an.ordinary round waste pa
perbasket, and are so made that the entire arm
Is covered. They are the kind that were
worn In the time of the French Directoire,
and as directoife suits are all the 20 now,
the other articles of apparel then in vogue
are also becoming popular. For trimmings,
long and short furs are used, but in most
varied ways, the long fieeces forming length
wise rows and borders on garments, while
the shorter furs are inlaid as vests OF plas-
irons, and all shaped in revers in pointed
Buues, as caps IOr sleeves or as
epaulettes. Brown furs, such as our
grandmothers wore. are again in
favor, and novelty is introduced in
the use Of undyed seal fur, which Is OF light
tan color. Stone marten is again restored 10
favor. and mink Is again stylish trimming
Both the silver and blue fox are favoTite
light furs, as Is also the yellowish badger
with its long fleece. For durable furs the
black and brown bear skins are much used
for heavy cloth or velvet wraps. Wolverine
is very dark fur, effective for borders
Black furs are now much used on green, blue
and red cloth or plush wraps and on brown
garments as well. The favorite short, black
furs are Persian and Russian lamb, while the
long, black feeces most used are black mar
ten, black bear and black fox