St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1888-04-22

i i ] !. ]
All ! FN1N\N being draped in one
VWMS long loop, as is the
\ ~ MAN width in the back. The
Al Nh WHY waist opens i'll deep
81 I VA NV point in front, one side
Il ELLNE ! being plain and the
II ,IINl other finished with a
H broad velvet rever eX-
NJ | } tending from the right
Y shoulder to the left side
of the belt. The sleeves
are half long, finished with deep velvet
cuffs and broad velvet belt finishes the
edge of the waist.
A spring walking gown worn by an
EnglishWOman on Broadway a few
days since attracted considerable and
admiring attention. The skirts were
the foot being bordered with some
twenty rows of narrow Gobelin blue
braid. The long diagonal draperies
had six or eight rows of this braid on
their edge and the rest of the basque
was completely covered with it, set on
in Y shape. The coat edges OF the
basque, the collars and sleeves were all
adorned in like manner. With it was
worn a jacket of Gobelin blue cloth,
hooking smoothly in front and with
many lines of narrow silver braid set
straight across it, almost from shoulder
to shoulder at the top, and diminishing
to scarcely more than an inch in length
at the bottom. With it was worn an
English walking hat of blue straw
trimmed with many erect loops of tan
cOlored ribbon.
Those who had black lace gowns last
summer and find that the lace is the
worse for wear are utilizing the silk
clyi rtxx ct mir hu
with draperieS of Russian net. In some
cases the draperies are edged with broad
black ribbons and the waist trimmed
with bows, but more elaborate ones have
the net covered with many rows of mar
row watered ribbon. Sometimes this is
set On diagonaily, sometimes perpendic-
ularly and, very rarely, straight across.
The same effect is employed on the
waist draperieS, the ribbOn-Striped net
being gathered in full at the shoulders
and drawn down to sharp point below
the waist. Those who find their lace
sufficiently fresh to wear another sea-
son, but wish to vary the costume bit,
can accomplish this by the addition of a
narrow net of white watered silk en-
broidered with gold, with collar and
narrow cuffs to match.
The spring jerseys are extremely
pretty and very elaborate. A dark blue
one has vest of white, with straight
lines of dark blue braiding. The front
halves of the collar are also of white,
covered with these blue lines. The
sleeves have slight fullness on the
outer side, and this is caught together
three times with bits Of shocking, the
whole being finished by white cuff
braided in blue. Many of them have
the upper part tucked in numerous fine
tuckS from the neck to the bust. There
the tuckS end, and the curve of the fig
ure takes up the fulnesS, which is again
confined at the waist by broad buckled
belt. With these jerseys the sleeves
are tucked throughout the entire length
and held in to deep cuff. The rage for
shocking has invaded even the jersey,
and some have the whole yoke made in
this way, but the effect is not good.
Others have heavy braid down the front
and back and surrounding the collar
and cuffs.
Green and brown are very popular
green cashmeres are made up over
brown skirts, and vice versa. Terra
Gotta or Pompeiian red with all shades
of dark and GObelin blue is also
favorite combination. These red and
blue dresses are made for the most part
with the red for the skirts and the blue
for waist and drapery, though Occas-
SiOnally the order is reversed. These
skirts are trimmed with deep. double
boX-pleated fiounce, on which is Sewed
some three inches above the hem, three
rows of velvet ribbon of somewhat
darker shade. This is somewhat varied
by putting broad ribbon in the middle
row and a narrow one above or below.
These spring caShmereS in some cases
are trimmed entirely with tucks. The
flounce has four or five, set in some dis
lance above the hem; the drapery has
edge, and the waist has them both back
and front, as well as in the half loose
sleeves. These tuckS are graduated in
width.
On the whole, ginghamS are far more
satisfactory than sateens, and the new
ones are not any less pretty in color and
design. They can be washed and do not
crumple SO readily as the SateenS, and
there is every prospect this season of
their beating their rivals out of the
field, aided by the China and India
silks. In making clothes for summer
to be spent near the sea, ginghamS,
India silks and China Grape are the very
best choice, as none of the three is
injured by dampness. Velvet is the
fayorite trimming.
Every corsage is draped, even for the
stoutest figures; for these one side is
draped and the other left plain. If the
dress is of two different fabrics, OF even
of two cOlors, the plain side is of one
and the draped side of the other. A
very pretty gown Of Gobelin blue cloth
has the left side plain, the other side
being cut in such way as to lap over
and be drawn up on the left shoulder,
where it is held by silver clasp. Nearly
all the vests are honeycombed OF
''smocked'' at the top, and sometimes
this is reDeated at the waist line