New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-04-22
THE FASHIONS.
REAUT1FUL UNDERGRADUATES.


uomen arc using more lace for trimming than ior
meriy French percsle, however remains popwai
for serviceable and is the material oneny u.o. ~
the needework sets OF underwear which arc sui 'no
choice of the fashionable women OF To-Day ~ 'no'
were OF their Qrandmothers The best percaie undor
wear ia made of the heavier grade OF goods Known
M q Madopolainp which sells at from 20 10 ~ cons'
a yard in thrty-thrce inch width and At nom AZ "
e5 cents in forty-two inch width. froncn p0i0N'o
IN lighter weight and IN thiryhrco inch widths ranges
in price from 25 TO 40 cents. Gowns, cnemisos' 49,
ers and corset covers are mado OF tnoso ,,.
lighter material Is usually chosen Tor "AANs So.
by ladies who use pcrcae for general wear JIM,
cambrics arc not as popular as formerly, as Amon0"
cambrfcs are now made fine as the imported soou,,
Berkleys cambrics which range In price frotn 10 "
cents. are the finest American camhrics Dmi'y
or fine striped long cloth Is still used oy oio ia
in tho city for entire sets Of underwear ana A'S'
in stock at q few Of the older mercantile houses.
Frencb nainsook "a the material from which I'M
norted French rowns chemises and other artoieS oi
fine underwear are generally made for fastdous Gus
toners who wish something finer than tho ee.s =,
French pcrcale made by the needle ana emorou'.ou
By hand. The French nainsook Is moro highy III
ished goods than the English which Is mace "onou'
dressing The French manufacturer glVos eiho"
lustre to his goods by twisting tho thread more nrS
in tho weave; this makes nansook with hsh'
snowy lustre which Is charming in conjunction WIN
real Valenciennes with the French iaces wnoh
arc seen on French handmade garments ana "mon
are very difficult to get in this MARKET Engnsn
nainsook Is q moro durable gooos tnan THO fion"'
and Is popular with tho ladies who do their own noo
dework or supervise IT, Sheer qualities OF nalnsooR,
which are little heavier than Swiss muslin are used
exclusively for dresses The quality known W MGR
chants as heavy naiDsook IS the quality USED IN uhoe
wear; It usually measures fortysix inches IN "loen
and sold at from 30 cents to 81 yard English nan-
SOCK 4, thirty-six inches wide and ranges IN price
from IN 51 cents a ward.
Mazalia Is a sllhenlke goods with an indistinct
strfpe IL Is soft finished like an English nansooB
but Is little sheercr than the heavier quality ana
Is an exceedingly pretty, fine cotton for summer un
derwear Nansooks and lawns are both used Tor
ski,tincs A heavy quality Of Victoria lawn Is rec
commended as retaining the starch better than any
material known and for not rustlng-a serious draw
hack To skirts Of cambria Tho French walking skirts
are made up this year In some cases OF nne ootteu
Victoria lawns, goods not found at the shops VIC
torta lawns qualities suitable for skirts are 10 10
80 cents yard.
brio, is used for matinee sacques ana gowns IL -
tventy-four inches wide and is so to 65 cents yard
Czarina lawn a goods between an India lawn ana
a nansook in weight, ranges from 20 to 40 Genus
ward Maud lawn is q sheer cotton Of batiste weave,
which sells at % cents yard Cotton Canton
grapes at 25 cents are soft Grape finished oottons that
come In pure white and cream-white, and make
various widths to match all qualities Of nainsook arc
shown at from IS cents to 90 yard, and are twenty
seven inches wide. Linen csmbdcs range RON 90
cents to ST. q yard Ia thirt, -inch width.
TIM materials used for trimming II handmade
Flench underwear arc real valencIonnPs lare ana
French laces in the patterns. Real Valencennes
Is made Of the finest seaisand cotton and Is always
on expensive lace though exceedingly durable 1t
ranges In price from 81 upward q yard In their
anxiety TO produce q cheap lace that shall be as efeo
two as real Vaenciennes manufacturers OF ato years
have sacrificed quality. and the English Platt Vaenr
ciennes IA far inferior In make TO the italian Valenc
ennes of a dozon years ago. or to the French woven
yalenciennes which arc chiefly seen In this country
on French underwear
Linen laces are chosen by ladies who do not wish to
70 to the expense Of real vaencennes lace as these
linen laces all handmade and are far more effective
than the woven yalenciennes that can be found In
our market The sheerest and highest OF these aces
IA the torchon and this lace is used sets OF French
underwear alone and in connection with French ma
chino embroideries, Maltese is delicate feathery
lace which is heavier and moro expensive than
torchon. The Cluny laces are still heavier ana are
still used by old-fashioned families for underwear
Florentne laces are copied for old Venetian laces
and are quite heavy-similar to Cluny In weght-and
are used for skirts and where heavy effective lace is
desired. The Medtci laces, double torhpn, are
the heaviest of the Linen lacos made and are
chiefly used for skirts though there have been entire
sets made up with trimming Of Medici and Florentine
lace.
The first choice In embroideres are those rom the
French manufacturers which copy faithfully the pat
terms and style Of needlework These are found IN
aundered work BIZ the yard and IN unaundered strips
Of four and half yards each These unaundered en-
broiderles are worked madapolaise," range IN
width from half an inch TO four and half inches, and
are sold at an average of from rs cents to 81 so
| ward only by tho strip Regular bands OF french
needlework are still used by fastidous women THESE
hands are two yards and threequarters long, and are
worked on either side pcrcae In patterns about
| tbree-ouarters of an inch wide. Feston bands OF
close block work and in drawn stitch with
a scalloped edge are used for skirts and are sold IN
| trelye-yard lengths at 3d. French loom oands IN
| twelve ward lengths used for underwear TRIM
| ming skirts and cambria dresses. Chcnise bands
embroidered double linen with the needle range IN
nr,ce from IS cents TO SO u.s. double drawer bands
a.. from rs cents to 80 rs and nightgown sets Of
tour neces two cuffs collar and front piece are rs
| cents TO So.
| The new French shapes In gowns are In most IN
stances considerably higher In the neck than last
season The features OF the Drectorc styles are TO
r,oduced in many of the now shapes. Tho wide
ucspd frase Of peated null edged with lace, extending
| dovn the front Of some Of the new gowns the full
Crecian fronts and the graceful classic fashions with
a fulness from the shoulder coming to point In
front arc all found among the new shapes In gowns
Few gowns are made with yoke in the back In
most cases the back is laid in five or six small inch
and half box -pleats in wide group of fine quarter
inch tucks, or in wide tucfs and sewed as lar as
| ro,o. ryou,d come II there Tho fulness
tbes. tucks is left to How free. The front OF the
Gown NAV be finished in great variety OF ways
There are few Jokes, and these few are quite short
and composed of insertions of embroidery and hno
tucks and feather stitching, or Of needle-worE The
Recamier shape in gowns has piece OF nainsook'
striped with insertions Of lace shrred In at tho shoulder
and brought down in front to the bust hne where IL
"a held in tucks which fit the gown to tho waist slightly
THE eted tendency to the front Of the new gown IS
soen frequently and Is sometimes done in limo OF hem
..1AA,-- .uALsh ontllnes a dart. Tho Grecian night