Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1888-09-29
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the upper PROVINCES is e7s miles. IL
viii be scarcely credible TO the American
reader that this far-awsy and. TO US, practically
unknown route is else than sinuous trail OF pro
tracted discomfort And yet some OF our own
pretentious lines between the East and West can
not excel It either in running time or in all those
Improvements and conveniences which make
ions-distance travel endurable. Steel rails
spirndidly ballasted roadoed, nne coaches, superb
sleepefs, snug, wholesome lunch and dining rooms
al stations plump, pretty and polite Canadian
girls 10 serve you, and indeed good honest service
All around, make one involuntarily like what ls
their HIS" but never their manners aud duty In
this sometimes dreary part OF the world But the
Ing ali argument upon the oenencence or pro-
prey OF any government undertaking which
snoua oe enected oy private enterprise aud capi-
IAl SUBSTANTIAL TACT In this Instance remains:
Inc Ottawa government has
cshENrrp THE PROVINCES
y the strongest possible ties OF common business
Interest In the building OF this great line through
what was previously regarded as an impossible
the very suburbs OF HalIaN-excepting the little
neck Joining Nova Scotia 10 New brunswick, the
southeastern portion OF the latter province, and
part OF the route uaverslng the southern shore OF
the ST Lawence-to the territory contiguous TO
quebec, before tGis railway was opened, the eye
scarcely looked upon the vast reaches OF rocI
spruce and hemlock, savanna and mountain. sol-
tuoe relgned Wolves collected the taxes To-day
TIE region traversed will tavorably compare with
that through which extend the prosperous lines
that reach from ST. Paul To the Red River and be-
yond- The whole distance from HALIFAX In q PEE
Rod OF pleasing surprises and experiences TO the
American; and when you awaken FROM your
conJectures and reveries about how proud
tulng IL would be for all Canadians aud
Americans were there no dividing line IRON the
Polar seas TO the Gulf, and md yourself AT Point
Lewis, opposite Quebec mingllng VITA the crowds
at the rerry-the noble 81 Lawrence In us grand
passage between The mighty fortified. out-Jutting
crags; the sunny vineiand, Lewis h&c dream of
NnrnlnnV han naan oil eIfU
the French peasants, priests and poultry-yenders
ali ABOUT, with here and there a tradesInan ami
markelnan, chatting with animation In The
French tongue; aud the intermingiIng groups OF
British soldiery with their red slashings cOrd-
ings;-one els as II suddenly Transporter 10 some
Old province OF France newly occupied by the
British; or as though some startling losing OF the
knglisn cnannel had occurred, aad yourself along
Win an the foreign throags mad been saunLea
and ramparts OF ancient Dover.
QUEBEC.
There Is lust one point from which TO view
Quebec and the noble scenes ouJreacAIng In every
direction. That Is from the lofty citadel Wan
dering up quaint st. Louis STREET and passing
through the noted 81 Louis gate the way Is sIeen
winding one through the slope OF the ciJadel's
glacls. Indeed, II one goes In any direction from
be traversed Ii you do IL aIooI, you viii ue ID
good muscle and wind II YOU are percned upon
whose driver dllis atty dives AZ railing youths,
aud swears Increasingly In beautiful patots your
neck is likely 70 be broken You are always under
the mouth OF u ferociOus cannon, or near the
mouth OF ferocious oeggar The main ditch Is
faced with massive masonry, and opens lnto a
narrow parade oversnadowed py basllon angles
The Great Gale Ia OF chain interviewer In strange
and curious links But somel the valueless an
uquity am absurd pretenset 4 this granite and
Instead OF properly respectful awe INTO the
heart Tue sentry paw and France al )ut Ike
Capped ana pantaietted bears There are much
clash and clang, when you do not come upon these
cnuODy senuneiS un2wares. When you 90 they
are guile earthly anu dull
TIE BoNBADIER AT rHs GATE
gave me In charge OF ad-buttocxed, falsetto-
voiced, sway-backed, lsI ,s-tongued arrilleryman,
one OF The squad on guard al the entrance at the
time, with the remark:
"Show TINS ere hamertcan gentleman the honors
now, Willum- Lively now, Him sayin'l" Aud
which maze his poor little asthmaIic lungs
rattle Ike q reyeiile, LED the altogether DIS
heveled and unkempt way; for it Is no crilne
TO state the fact Thai the condition OF ruinous des-
uetule and unkempL sloveallness OF this once
mighty fortress ana still magnificent relic Is an
unparalleled Disgrace TO BRUSH military pride
and Canadian governmental dignity. The forum
Cations Quilt 10 the very edge OF the lofty heights
OF Cape diamond, which Else almost perpendlcu-
larry from the ST. Lawrence, where the rivers una
Jestic expanses above and below are narrowed 70
scarcely a half mile In width, occupy 80 acres
OF ground 10 the city side Is a broad glaclS
broken by three ravelins above which are a line
OF casemaued barracks. The bastions, command.
ing the upper and lower river approaches, the
site, are TREMENDOUS In height and thickness Inc
interior Parade Is In the form OF a triangle, with
.ns Oince e Dar.scHs an unsiS hty STRUCTURE
eraI as a summer residence, upon It's south side,
next the riverside bastions and ramparIs. A
n.tny keep. or married quarters, Is near. And Al
the left stands
THE RIcKErr oovERNNENr OBSERVATORY.
On every hand are rust, mold, nth and decay.
As former soldier with some knowledge OF mill
tary Affairs. have no hesitAncy In saying there IL
not pound OF properly-kept ammunition, shell
not burst any one OF the INDUSTRIOUS and rust-eaIen
cannon, within the entire citadel. The garrison Is
slovenly; the parade Is full unsighIy hollows
and pools rs = deserted brick-yard; umbers are
rotten and rotJng; walls are crun0led and wora;
carriages are disinanLied OF their guns which lie
neglected In the mud; trunnlons are loOsened from
their worm-eaten beds; and they are a brave gar
rIson VINO thus dare disease on the top OF a lrun-
even tue firing OF time and sisnai guns Indeed
Canada had right 70 turn paae when the lively
Fenians trpped gaily over the boarder.
Two things here however, touch the American
heart and spirit DIT, and my astnInatlc guide,
WiuIn, removed his white cotton gloves AMI pro-
duced his white cotton handkerchief as We APP
preached these memen, oeS, and be, the subject
matter. .,
his voice and the mist or tear In his round, red
eve ..is a VERY painful subject" We were stand
lug al the edge the Kings Bastion, looHing
down the almost perpendicular rocks 70 the nar-
row street Oh Lower Town, nearly $50 Ieet below.
"Hi spose we've the sorry story be art ye known"
Hall way down the cruel height where a more
desperate charge than al Lookout once was made
was u table, bearing the legend. "Here fetl Mont-
gomery, MS "Wery painful wery." signed
WIlluIn heavily. placed a com IN mis- timolous
timely hand and turned from the spot. lie fol-
lowed brisky, good SOUL Frightening up the SUD-
jecJ with, "But II cawDt 'appen hegaln, ye KNOW.
bear, mop In a moment more We had reached the
center The Parade. 70 wnicn spot he had dexter
ously guided me. There stood Orlghl, saucy lit
tie ned piece vi brass polished until IL almost mir
rored the sky-the only thing In the Whole ciladel
OF Quebec with clean lace and q snappy, good
look about 1t. "kealIy, now. Hl"-btgan Wii.um
with q downcast, commissioning face-"hlts a
VERY unpleasant subject weryP Tue very little
gun had very large inscription, which said IL had
been "Takea " Bunker HlL" "Dear me! but
hits a VERY" placed another coin In MS TIM
orous, timely hand. kadlantly beaned his honest
lace. He put the coin away; slapped The gun
Familiarity, kindly, tntrospectively, sympatheIi-
cally, he unused aloud In tone OF uncIuous per-
missiDlliIy, CHARITY and forgiveness:
'Sut h1t caw'nt 'appen hagain, ye knowp
FROM THE KINGS BAsTIoS.
II you can bribe your guide TO few moments
severance OF these sympathetic arrliauons, and
Will stand alone on the farthest edge OF the Kings
Bastion, one OF the most magnificent cycloramas
10 be seen In America Is all your own. To lhe
norm ne the Plains OF Abraham, Terminating 70
the vision In the Heights Of Abraham where Wolfe
fell as his oioody victory WAS won. To the wesi,
the 81 Lawrence, broadenin, for a distance winds
It's splendid course towards the Thousand Islands
and Inc Great Lakes. To The souIn, beyond whose
horizon Inc lies your own loved land, are the
peaceful wales or Becancour, Chaudlere, and the
Upper 81 John Between slope the heights
OF Point Lewis In gentle descentS disclosing
here great hospital tsere q handsome