Idaho semi-weekly world. [volume] (Idaho City, Idaho Territory) 1875-1908, 1888-08-07
MOURNING osesses.
Fabrics EmploysA n Thsif Uonstfaeti6n
Lseaing DrOess Mnksrn.

Fabrics EmployeA IN Thsir Uonstfactf6n b
Leading Drssss Makers.
Striped crepe dc Chine woven very
thin Il the new fabric for summer
mourning dressea The stripes are OF
different degrees Of thinness. some like
gauze. and those next them like sum-
mer Bengaline. or else with corded
stripes in clusters, or hair lines on
thin stripe next q border stripe. or per-
haps every other stripe is lightly en-
broidered; broad stripes over an inch
wide are considered most stI'iish.
There are also barred China grapes
that are very handsome. the bars
being like open rows of braid, and the
centers crinkled like japanese Grape.
The plain China grapes are now made
in very fine qualities. and arc so en-
tirely without luster that they are
chosen for the most elegant toiIettes to
be worn in the deepest mourning.
Grenadines have been little used for
two or three years. but are now re-
sived in great variety. For first deep
mourning are sewing-silk grenadines
of plain surfaces. 80 closely woven that
they do not require silk beneath them;
lighter qualities are like silk muslin,
ami the gaze do Cha,nbery is similar
fabric Of glossy thin silky black. The
oren-meshed silk and wool Hermann,
with all the armure, canvas and iron
grenadines. is again used. either quite
plain or else with new striped patterns
alternately like Grape. or like Bengal
line OF the twillcd peau de sole, each
stripe from one to two inches wide,
making effective patterns for over
dresses above plain grenadinc skirts.
For those who dislike stripes are fig
ures Of Greek keys and large balls.
or Gothic arches of dull silken surface
sunk in open armure grounds. and
there are many Spanish lace designs
woven quite thick on their surfaces that
recall the fancy for brocades. The
more Opaque camel's hair grenadines
have hcm-stitched border along one
selvage to use for trimming, and these
excellent fabrics are also striped and
barred in many ways For half-mourn-
ing the more lustrous silk grenadines
have ribbon stripes of taffeta edged
with white, or else they have double or
triple lines of white woven in twills.
Nuns vnling remains the popular
summer fabric for mourning. just ms
Henrietta cloth is for winter dresses.
1t is of varied thicknesses. and has its
own trimming in its wide selyage.
which is always an inch in width. and
in the better qualities is two or even
three inches wide. There are also
many striped vailings. those with
rcppcd silk. like BengaIine. being very
handsome For evening dresses worn
in mourning the large-meshed Brussels
nets are used in layers. rs tulle is ar
ranged, also in plated founces with
ribbon trimming. India silk is worn
in solid color in deep mourning. but,
even in its best qualities. is not found
so satisfactory as that with white
figures; it becomes '.stringy." and does
not wear well otherwise. Bayonnaise
is barege-like fabric much used by
French modistes for summer mourn
ing.
For thicker fabrics tamise cloth of
smooth plain surface and pure wool is
chosen for seaside and mountain wear,
while for travelling are Cheviots OF
light quality, bison cloths and serges.
or else the Sicilienne mohairs that re-
semble alpaca, but are more broadly
woven, like the basket-weaying once 50
popular.
English Grape is less used for trim
mings for summer gowns, and many
families object to it altogether. using
folds and plaitings of the dress goods
with dull jet and ribbons instead. The
dull lusterless gros-grain ribbons are
excellent trimmings for nuns vailing
and India silk dresses, while gauze
ribbons are used on black net-Har-
Ser's Bazar.