Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1888-01-20
LADIES' COLUMN.
Winter May Linger, but Fashion
Makes no Delays, Marching on
to Styles for Spring.
Sleeves for the ENTHUSIASTICALLY In
Selredge-Dlrect0ire Effects
in P0i0naisess
A Dinner of Her Gs Norc Acceptable with
Condimc mt of Love than aStaued
Ok and Ostsntatton.

craze is on men and women Of the preset
day, but there is one saving clause,
human nature will assert itself, and in
nature animate and insnimste, both art
and fashion seek their models and are
alike nearest their ideal when most
natural. There is not, perhaps, on the
face of the earth more childlike, simple
people than the Japanese, yet since that
country has been opened to the world
their dress and decorative art has served
es guide to modern taste, even among
those nations who are prone to arrogate
to themselves superiority.
The graceful, flowing gown of to-day
finds its prototype in the island kingdom
of the east, and pretty screens and
portiefes ere but reproductionin fabric,
design and coloring of those in the homes
OF these people. In dress it is equally
true that the nearer it approximates that
Of natures children the n IRE pictures ne
and beautiful it becomes. The Tyrole Sc
peasantry gave the model Of pretty hat
and bodice, and the modern seaTch
of the medieval has brought cut
many charming designs CT costumes
the works of sculplors and Of painters
centuries old. While much csn be said
In favor OF tailor made gowns, il is pleas.
and TO see little more femininity in street
costumes. This is observable in C.
lengthening Of the skirt, end more vol
luminous drspery, but is most observable
in the dressing OF the neck. Soft ribbon,
pretty lsces are fast superseding the stiff
linen collar and bosom that gave so m.n-
ish an appearance to female attire. Slim
women will rejoice in The retur to loose,
ruffled and deliberately Topped dresses,
but stout ladies will find little satisfaction
in their appearance if compelled to don
the new robes.
A popular tea gown is made with Gu
under tunic straight and plain from the
chin TO toe, with straight, plain over
robe laid open with revers the whole way
down. How the wearer gets into it is an
enigma; broad sash passes around the
front OF the under front and fastens mys-
teriously under the back. Oriental effects
SO much employed this sea-
son are especially adapted for
indoor costumes: the colorings sre
well brought out in China silks and deli
cate tissues of eastern looms, and these
offer fine opportunities for an exhibition
OF that rsre talent whichis shown in artis-
tic blending and combinations. In sharp
contrast with frocks Of this fashion are
cloth dresses; among the ideal cloth cos
tunes are those in pfircesse style, msde
in elegant simplicity and beautifully fn-
ished. TIE bodice portion and the
bresdths in front and over the hips fit
without wrinkle aud are absolutely de-
void Of puff or looping. Some OF the
-y1ndplc made NJ
slssied mp each side, showing an elabo-
rately braided petricoat beneath, the
braiding also bordering the slashed
breadthS in narrower pattern. ALI the
drapery is gathered close Of the back and
applied TO the center forms Of the bodice.
In adopting severity CT style few brides
have that independence (which marked
one recently, who, setting conventionality
aside, ordered from an American tailor,
although she had formerly displayed
Worth toilets, her bridal outfit. The
wedding gown was indeed departure,
being made OF gray silk warp Henrietta
cloth, beautifully embroidered in shades
OF gray silk and cut steel beads. a Gre
clan bodice and soft, graceful, but exceed
ingly simple drapery, completed gown
artistic and unique and deserving to be-
come q precedent for future brides who
have strength Of mind enough to prefer
simple wooden fabric for the msgnificence
OF velvet and silk.
There are msny varieties of sleeves in
wear this winter. Some are open TO She
elbow, with velvet sleeves showing below
or for dress occasions the small close part
may be Of q bead-embroidered tissue
which IS always unlike the material of
the dress. On the upper part of the
sleeve is an epaulette, also made of beads.
The real Italian sleeve is much used for
women's and children's dresses, but il is
rather narrower than the original design.
One of the antique sleeves shows the I'M
der part fiat, while the upper portion Is
slightly gathered on the shoulder and at
the starting point OF the deep wrist piece, !
which is always of contrasting material. !
This piece buttons up the back or laces
on the side Oriental styles also prevail
for sleeves, and upon imported gowns
they are made in Jewish, Grecian and
Turkish fash on.
Merchants fully realize that there are |
times that admit of no delays, aud these
must be no intermiD, hence one season |
meTges into another, and before one fair |
~ realizes winter is here these men of
enterprise sre showing spring fabrics and |
costumes.
a new fresk of manufacturers is seen
in goods with an ornamental sselvedge; |
these are seen on chuddahs, and are |
bands from two to three inches CT broken |
STRIPS in hsrmonizjpg shades or contrast
ing colors. The fashion plates thus far |
show gowns with fancy selvedges made |
up In combinations Of hair lines and plain /
colors or beige mixture with no eXtrane-
Gus gsrDitnre The selyedge is never
applied, except possibly to form the col
lar or cuff, but is allowed to sppear in
Serticsl lines wherever Il naturally would,
by the cut of the dress. II is seen at the
side of the skirt of the straight Direc-
tore poloDsise; at the side Of the vest.
and IL other parts Of the gown. In the
case OF a combination of hair lines and
plain fabric in several tones Of color the
darker color is the striped fabric, and
this is laid in large plests cTosswise of
goods to form the undersklrt, allowing
the selve6ge to appear SIS border to this
kilt skirt. Again, the underskirt is Of
solid striped goods matching the fancy
selyedge which appears on parts of the
rest OF the costume.
MThe new polonsises for spring are quite
similar Ia their straight lines and severe
effects to the Directoire costs of several
seasons ego. There is no draPery; the
skirt Of the polonaise falls in classic
lines, but boufant appearance is given +,
to the costume by the "dress imprOyer" /.
worn benesth, which takes the place of
the extrsneoGs drepery recently used for {
- - Ia Ia a