St. Paul daily globe., 1888-08-19

and great number are high behind,
with open, V-shaped or square-neck
front, made up of embroidery or lace,
with tucks, Misunderstanding and inser-
ton. Sometimes very light sleeves are
added to corset covers, or else the arm
hole is scoIloped, OF bit of lace or en-
broidery finishes it. When chemises
are not used this trimming is important.
The midsummer undergarments are the
ribbed vest of silk or of Isle thread,
which is first put on, then the drawers
corset, with the corset cover,
which is smooth on the figure,
extending low over the hips.
ChemiSeS are made in Sacque-shapes
that are now partly fitted to the figure
by two darts OF by four, and are with
out sleeves, the armholeS being merely
trimmed with edging of embroidery or
lace. or with needlework done on the
garment. Fine batiSte or sheer French
percale are used for imported chemiSeS,
also linen of very light weight. Some
OF these have four darts. fitting the front
as smoothly as corSet-coyer. and doing
away with all fullneSS just below the
waist Some chemiSeS have shoulder
stays that button, and may be re-
moved when low corSageS are worn;
entirely of lace, and these pass over the
arms or under them. the garment being
so closely fitted by darts that 1t does not
need to be suspended from bands over
the shoulders. Muslin wrappers are
preferred to the matinee dress of two
pieces, and are made so elaborate that
they resemble tea-gownS. and are Some7
times worn over slip of colOred Surah
or China silk corSet-c0yer and walking
skirt. India linen, Victoria lawn and
French nainsook wrappers. not too good
for frequent washing, are far more use
full, and are made with wide straight
fronts that have only an underarm dart
meeting side forms of the back that are
Of continuous length, while the middle
back forms are
CUT OFF IN A POINT
below the waist line, and full breadth
is Shirred to this point to give the back
of the skirt graceful fullnesS. Drawers
are now made very wide at the knees,
measuring fiye-eighths of yard around,
and even more. The top is deeply faced
in yoke shape, the fronts fit easily and a
draw string of tape is added across the
back to make it the proper size. Belts
are 10 longer seen on well-made under
clothing. Percale and durable domestic
muSlinS are used for drawers. For sets
OF linen underclothing much heavier
linen is chosen for drawers than for
other garments. Night gowns are
made fuller than formerly, and
serve for room gowns in the morn
ing and for inyalids' day wrappers.
Full. straight sleeves are liked for
gowns; they are gathered at the arm
holes, and again to Wristbands large
enough for the arm to pass through. A
pretty design has the full front of the
gown tucked lengthwise in a point like
yoke, then tucked again at the waist
line in points like those of a Swiss gir-
die. Mrs. Langtry has outstripped her
sex, on or off the stage in the matter Of
decollete dress. There was ball at the
West End, Long Branch. the other
night, and the Lily was there. That
woman is coon for cunning. She is
going to give theatrical performance
down there at the SeaShore, charging
50 seat and expecting to clear 81, 800 by
it, as she did last year. Maybe she
deemed it necessary to advertise her
self remarkably for this occasion.
If so. she succeeded. But, like those
Coney Island museums that range their
human curioSitieS in front of the tent
to be seen free, and leave hardly any,
thing in the inside for those who pay
the entrance fee. Mrs. Langtry quite
exhausted her resources for the gratis
view at the ball. and cannot do more at
the 50 show. Her gown had front of
very light pink silk null in deep tucks,
hanging over which hung wide, deep
tabs of jet, almost covering the pink,