The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1888-06-24
FAMILY FASHIONS AND PANCIES.

Good Housekeeping,
The undergarments OF woman OF
fashion have undergone considerable
change in fabric and quality since the
homespun linen OF Colony days. The
immense improvement during the last
hundred years in all textile fabrics is
felt more strongly in the quality OF white
goods Of cotton than in wool or silk. A
whole dress rs fine rs the far famed
DaCca musfins, so sheer in quality that
they became invisible when spread on
the grass and wet by the dew, and were
valued at the price OF kings ransom,
is now possible to the poor working
girls OF this democratic land. Domestic
mpslins retain their popularity for
standard underwear, but We must still
90 to the marts OF France, England and
India for the diaphanous muslins which
are used for sheer afternoon and even
ing dresses.
Exclusive, fashionable women use
French nainsooks, linen cqmhrics and
perc0les for underWare. There Is less OF
imported cambria used than formerly,
owing to the superiority Of our own do
nestle cambrics. The Wamsutta, Ions
dale and especially the Berkeley mills
all make cambrics which rival the best
imported goods, and are sold ut less than
ont-half. Mndopolaihe is a heavy quail
ity OF percale which sells at about TWEEN
ty.five cents per yard and is especially
recommended MS durable goods for un-
derware. Nearly all the shops keep
IIamburgs worked on modopolaine, for
use on garments made OF this material.
These embroidered bands are finished
without dressing, and are lar superior to
all-TIAmburg, even French Hamburg
which has been considered the best OF
all. Unfortunately they 'arG sold only
in four and a half yards length in all
widths, length which does not always
cut to advantage,
PETTICoATs AND NIGHTl0wNs.
Most petticoats are now made with a
band rather than yoke, and the full
ruiIles which extended up the back to
give the effect OF hustle, are. not often
used. Castings, in which steels are run
to be removed when laundrled, replace
these rulIles. The finest skirts are fin
ished with wide, Spanish ilounces which
are tucked with fine tucks aud trimmed
with insertions and edgings Of Maltese,
Torchon or Mediei lace, and edgiRgs OF
embroidery. The imported skirts from
France show considerable woven Valen-
ciennes, fashion which it is not adj
visable, for ladies' who make their own
skirts, to follow, as o good quality OF
woven Nalenciennes cannot now be
found in the American market. The
Valenciennes trimmings on this import
ed French underwear are made in
France, where excellent woven Nalen-
ciennes can always be purchased. This
is durable lace, which rivals the cush-
ion-made lace so closely that experts
sometimes require microscope TO de-
tect the difference. A dozen years ago
abundance OF good woven Nalenciennes
was to be found in our markets, but
shopkeepers, in their anxiety TO procure
nm article to meet the demand for cheap
finery, readily imported the snowy
Platte Yalencicnncs and Normandy Val
enciennes, laces which will not bear the
process OF laundrying aud possess no
virtue but Cheapness.
The excellent loom bands, which come
only in strips embroidered on both sides
in variety OF set patterns and with
strong scoiiops and in drawn work, are
quite dainty, and useful in trimming
skirts. Some OF the French skirts are
tucked in Cross-bar pattern, with tuCks
running the lengthwise and the cross
wise of the hounce. The tlounce on the
skirt may range from twenty to nine
inches in width. Uunder this tlounee
are invariably set, in handsome skirts,
two or three ru!lles, about three or four
inches in width, which serve to give 2
dainty boutIant effect to the edge. The
bottom of handsome skirt should nj
ways be protected by narrow rutlie d.
rectiy on the edge, which may be re-
moved when it trays.
Nightgowns are usually made pleated
at the back with yoke front, square
pompadour front, shirt bosom front or
in the new Classic ReCamIer fashion inr
PRODUCED this season in Fronch under
wear. Gowns with yoke fronts are
quite short in the yoke, which may be
composed OF needle-work, fine tucks
and lace, all used in combination or OF
one OF these materials. The neck oil the
new gown is rather higher and closer ut
the throat. In some cases fall OF
pfeated lace finishes the neck, and SINH
lar falls OF lace finish the sleeves. The
Recamier gown has fullness shirred
in ut the shoulder seam, extending to
about the waist line where it is again
heidi shirrings.
CHEMIsEs, DRAWERS AMP CORSET COVERS,
White domestic muslins and percales
are the standard materials for under
wear, Ladies making trousseaus During
the summer for autumn weddings are
advised that chemises OF the heavier
quality OF French nainsook, linen cam.
brio, or old!iaShiOned dimity, simply and
daintily trimmed with linen cambria
ruilleS edged with lace, made entirely by
the needle, are frequently part OF these
outfits. Women of refinement are be.
ginning to appreciate the beauty and
utility Of fine needle.made garments
French Chemises are made in square,
round or pointed shapes, the latter be-
ing the newer fashion. \ little illnes'
is sometimes shiFred on the shoulder O
the chemise, draping the narrow band
Wide yokes are out OF fashion. The
chemise may be made In sack style o.
gathered on to narrow band.
Drawers are simply trimmed will
tucks, lace or embroidery. French gar
: ments show n tendency to extend thu
trimming up the inside seam or in
= curve over the knee. In length thu
drawers should reach to the knee.
Corset covers are cut either poinlet
back aud front, low and round in tn
neck or high In the neck. Some OF tn
!, new pointed corset covers are draped IL
classic style with fullness, shirred in
the shoulder and forming a point 10y
at the bust.
II UNpRRvIsTs AND HOSIERY.
Luxurious women use silken nndel
K vests in pure white goods. The variou