New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1888-09-02
THE FASHIONS.
EVENING DRESS AND WOOLLEN GOWNS.
ORIENTAL STYLES BECOMING POPULAR - LoN'
IT'D TRAINS LIKELY TO COME ~ AGAIN.

AS the season advances later importauonS u0
sratc tie FOLLY Of depending upon hoatns ru'no'S IL
reference to Despite al predictions 10 inc con
trary. tournurcs arc not abandoned. Ihey
arr simply reduced in size and lowered
Az has been stated before. for cverahg
dress they are scarcely less pronounced IMAM
they wcrc last season. In all drapery thcro -
tendency to classic folds which drape the hguro III
straight lines, adding TO its apparent heish'. |
most striking novelty In styles Tor wlnt'r dc 'i'' UP
trains which VIII be introduced for evening "ea' ~
as the society season opens. Heavy S'"'e''
brocades or brocacllcs heavy corded allle flacasc
and SILKS are the materials shown by the importers ior
evening wear. In all cases tho brocaded SoouS vi"
be used for the bodice and traIn while the iron o. INC
dress will be OF plain SILK. matching the GROUND Oh INC
broca ado in color and texture. Thus pale empire
green pca SOLE scattered In brocadcd pattern win
silveiy thistlc-own balls. from the bodice ana
stately train OF the dress while the tablcr 'front.' VIII
be OF plain empire green pcau dc sole. drapcd Win
lace nOunccs embroidered with silver or pearl
Again, the train may be Of that brilliant evening 5hd
called The Juice OF cherries" In amure sllk with an
allover pattern in white satin sunk in the ground
plain silk Is then combined with this brocade
in the crimson shade Of the ground. Tice arc many
heavy rich satlns this season similar to the satin de
Icons OF few years These heavy sans with
pcau dc sole fale Francalse armurc silks and heavy
soft corded s-grains make up tho mass OF silks
imported.
The brocadcs now shown for tho first time for evening
dresses richer in effects than any silks previously
made. Indeed, the heavy armure grounds and satin
dc Leon grounds rich and lustrous that the new
figures sunk into them, an effect hitherto pro
duced only in brocalcles, whence these goods take
their There many striped effects. Two
wide stripes figuring the width Of the silk, shown
I'm contrasting silk, such satin with armure, with
mOlrc figured stripe with plain silk. The
brocadcd effects a rc arc in conventional pattern
Tfsa ffr - Dat
terms rule strlklnSly bold and effective and to
dis play their full effect VIII require the full length OF The
immense trains which viii be introduced when the
ball opens. No less than ten yards Of brocade
required for the train and bodice alone. Wide
striped satlns, figured in brocadcd patterns, with
large flowers, are among the goods Cashmere
styles copied from old Indian embrOlderIcs fic
qucny used in brocadcs on armurc silk grounds
and on satin, these showing medley OF many rich tins
and shades a solid ground in some pale evening
hue Ike sky blue, apple beaten gold cream
white. There Is no lack Of tlnsc I'm many of these
silks Cashmere figures shown woven In
conjunction with threads Of gold Of silver pure
white. beaten gold color Turk red. silks which
might easily fancy 10 belong to rich Eastern
land rather than 10 be the product Of French looms,
largo convcntionazcd poppy patterns great lotus
leaves and other tropical patterns also show the in
uoncc Of Turkish designs the silk manufacturers OF
Lyons. A few realistic brocadcs, scattered with
roses are shown sky blue, ag straw grounds.
There arc many delicate shades Of green among
evening silks. Crcsson, reed and aspergc shades Of
green arc seen in grounds and in combination with
other colors. Empire shades OF green a pale
yellow hue like the tapestry green of last season.
Beaten gold, rose pink the delicate shade Of the wild
without any Of the faded hue OF old of last
winter, the evening colors. There also
swedish tlnts and pale blues. Pure white is oftcncl
than rrbff Tpo1- f,I h.-
Turk red, genuine Oriental red, less purple in hue
than cardinal, by crimson In purple tones.
called the importers cards Jus de ccrse,r and
by apricot and flame co,orS. Among dark shades in
six, there arc blush Russian green. chestnut and
golden brown shades, few dark puppies and daha
coors. There also emerald greens in Follower
tones than the Russian green and Abyssnian shades
Of brown, as dark seal brown. LUciole is
blue green which promises TO be popular The pale
rosewood shades Of brown and many other brown 4!
shades indicate that preference IS anticipated dur
ing the winter for these colors. several tones of
color often I'm tho material and in this
way only do shade effects survive
Tho French plates for evening dresses thus far IT.
ported made with the long train and abl.cr fron2
already described, low dccoc,c round bodccs a,d
tiny short sleeves or elbow sleeves. The elbow
sleeves longer made to cling to the arm. but
loose, pointed piece Of lace or other trimming
extending down from the shoulder to the elbow to give
a winged effect. The pctcoat front OF dresses with
brocadcd trains IS frequently drapcd with null,
caught up with garlands of roses Jabos Of wide
lace often extend down the sides of the dress whore
the train meets the pottcoat. and wide frls OF lace
effectively used other parts Of the toilette
Extremely high colGurcs, higher than any which
have been recently worn the French
plates An evening dress imported this season in tho
pale yellow shade of faillc Franchise known beaten
coll. IS made with long rain, gathered in brocadcd
pattern with an aiabesque tracely in a still palcr
OF sa,m. The petticoat front OF the dress Is
pale fallc IrancalSc caught a, intervals with many
gold rings strung With pearls. wide iabot OF
Fedora lace extends down the Sdc OF the dress. The
bodice OF brCcadc Is pointed back and front, trimmed
with wide fail of Fedora lace made with front of
f.rlo Fraucalsn, and finished with loosc elbow
sleeves. down the centre Of which IS point Of
fallc Franchise and fall Of lace. handsome din
ncr dress Of crimson velvet in Jus dc ccrse' shade
made with long plain train OF velvet. with tablicr
front Of old fac, embroidered in chenille In
shades OF crimson IL striped pattern crossed with a
large cluster Of roses. \ velvet bodice pointed in V
shape. front and back, vest of embroidered fac
and slightly flowing elbow sleeves complete the dress
While it IS anticipated by many importers that trains
VIII be introduced dancing dresses II seem,
imPos illc that striking and inc0n cncnt IN
novation can be accepted by American women after
they have appreciated the convenience of short
dresses for the dance. II possible to pre-
dict with any certainty what extent trained dresses
will be received. There many short silk dresses
imported, which will form models for afternoon tea
dresses, for chulch dresses, and for all occasions OF
less drcsSy wear
The autumn woollcns piled the counters Of the
large SHOPS plain caShnicr,s with Henrietta
cloths and twllcd scrEcs and rcppct woods. Tho
ornamental scvagcs borercd woocnS introduced
last again promise 10 become fashionable In,
designs and colors OF Eastern lands arc shown
among the borlcrcd woollcnS. \ vdc pattern. aboU
nine inches WIDE, Gni-hc, one edge OF the WOOL anc
"a band, scarcely tAO and half inches wide.
the other. \, this often furnishes more trimming
than Is absolutely necessary for the entire dress.
manufacturers have hit ON the happy eN,"dicnt of
printing borders across the goods. separating tho
rands Of trimming by a space yard and half wide.
Tn 81 pieces arc called nOlucrs" by the merchant
and sell various price, according to the quality oi
the fabric and the pattern \ fine cashmere, which
without border sch, AT dollar and half ward. In
the nOuncc," with a nlnc-inch bOldcr embroidered
IN AalInN LmnLn . =