The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1888-07-17
AESTHETIC GIRLS.
Olive Logan in Philadelphia Press.

LONDON, July S.-Nowhere In tho world IA
dress so varied and suggestive as in the British
metropolis. This statement may be disputed by
those who do not know, but 1t will be admitted as
statement of fact by those who are acquainted with
society, and the intellectual resources employed fu
catering to the wealth which is massed here FROM
all over the world
London struck new note in the aesthetic move.
ment OF some years ngo 1t was pilloried by ridf.
cuie at the time, and in some it deserved IT.
80 grotesque and exaggerated were many
of its phases that whatever in women'e
clothing was loose, untdy illfttng and Of no par
tcular color was claimed aesthetic" and laughed
at rs the result of diseased erratic imagination.
The power of the small school Of worshipers was a.
It's height seven years ago but was then confined 10
very small school. After while 1t, ceased to at.
tract attention, and the Phstines who are nothing
T not orthodox and conventional, believed that 10
has been snecrcd and ridicued out of existence.
But an Idea cannot die; 1t ishound to live and
flourish If it has spark of vitality In it and the
aesthetic idea flourished to such extent that II
has created revolution and now dominates every
other fashion in women's clothes, except one and
with that, the "talormade."
Mrs Frances Hodgson Burnett has had numbes
of beautiful toilets made.
Mrs Burnett chooses always the softest materials.
and her favorite fnbric Is silk crepe made upon
crepe and not upon silk, unless il is an Indian silk
or gauze The gown which her favorte is of white
silk crepe, with underdress also OF crepe, in which
Greek plating is laid UPON the edge. The bodice
is crossed ond the princess drapery is carried up to
the left shoulder where 1t is confined by clasp OF
gold hligree. An exquisite insertion Of gold
embroidery forms border to the draperied skirt
and reappears in front of the bodice The drakoree
of all Mrs. Blrnetts costumes very long barely
showing the edge the underskirt exceptine where
they are open on the side or slightly draped up ID
the simple graceful fashion she pre- egs.
second dress Is u really wonderful Ncnetian
brocade, rich and soft gold tinted salmon In color,
and showing an Indian silk muslin in the puis Of
the sleeves, strapped withrfne gold insertion and
gold embroidered lace ct the neck. The dress ID
Venetian In cut as well az in fabric. The moyen-
age bodice defined 10y girdle OF wrought gold and
the square cut at the neck and finish of the sleeves
flowing strictly the picturesque idea of the Nenetian
grand dame.
salmon pink silk. plated 'front.', the draped
outlines followed by oriental embroidery.
This opens little to ore side ana
has short sleeves open near the top through which
little of the embroidery shows
more conventional style consists OF black siln
crepe, over Crepe with gold Embroidered panel.
high open surpce bodice, and sleeves reaching JUST
below the elbow little pointed piece upon the
front end cuffs turned up from the lower edge Of
the sleeves repeat the embroidered effect
lovely tea gown Is Of soft embroidered silk In
pale lettuce shade of green with salmon mink linz
ing II opens in front over foil tea tinted lace.
which scrossed by a,wide sash ofthesalmon colorsd
silk, knotted low upon the side. Sleeves long
open WIN uulefsfeeVcS OF PINK Blk, c)Vere0
full with lace; narrow pink moired ribbons are run
in at the wrist and throat leaving ornamental cops
and ends
THE SHOCKING FAD.
Smoking is one of the late 'fadS' in ltisic cos
tunes. II consists of drawn honeyconb work OK.
ecued go to form contrast IN color or shade ia
the body of the costume and II is applied to many
elegant well less formal materials and designs
1t isa revival Of the shocking formerly applied to
wagoners' linen frocks which were cut as straight
IA nv nj. i,ifr ttsa
fuuess with the needle in sort Of honcycomh
pattern and ornamenting it with stitches In
colored linen thread. The modern application
Of il is naturally more largely used for children than
for adult women, but Is usefully applied TO Carl.
baldl bodices in all soft materials TO house dresses
of thin wool, linen and cotton, and also forms
pretty finish for the neck of the full silk vests which
are made in a contrasting color to the dress ana
shocked in n shade to match. The favoritc combt-
nations are brown or fawu color and salmon pink,
butcher blue and cream WI tic, two shades of terra
Gotta old rose and white, da'k olive green and In.
da red and pale blue with ecru.
The fancy "novotes' in material which appear,
reappcar and disappear every season, are never
employed for artistic costumes Pure fabrics alone
are used silk, wool or cotton. And they possess
distinct character OF their own which gives them
permanency us well rs individuality. This purity
and freedom from all adultaration and changing
renders them soft and responsive to every move
ment Of the body which they cover. and naturally
inclined 10 lhll III long Bfhceiul INES curves ana
folds The effect therefore depends altogether upon
the way they are treated. II an ordinary dress-
maker gets them and SHIPS and cuts and punches In
the usual inconseqnent idlotc way, the material ID
simply barlsscd and the result a failure. But Il
an artist takes them In hand who understands thai
natural lines more beautiful than anything he
or she insert TO destroy them, the effect VIII be
good and satisfactory, thougthe simplest and plains
est resources may be employed.
charming gown just finished for visiting In the
10. e .. It'll i
silk stripe, woven in as border, and 10 be used az
trimming Upon this border was little running
edge Of silk embroidery in the delicate tea shade.
The vest Of coral pink India silk (palest shaded
smocked at the neck with the tea tint. The sleeves
were slightly full and falling over shocked cuff.
at the back Of which the vest color reappeared. A
large hat of finest tca-tnted muslin accompanied
this dress ornamented with huge puls, intermlxed
with others Of pink silk.
ARTISTIC PARAsOLs.
The novel features IN artistic pDrasOls arc mera
matters of detail The large parasols Of terra Gotta
cream India silk, show effective finish Of tho
raw edge frayed out into soft thick ruching. The
printed India ana Chinese silks are bordered with
full putting caught down In shell other forms and
are square topped with handles Of turned and
twisted bamboo. Novelties in fans are shaped and
marked as dragon-Aios or butterflies, or they are
striped upon transparent SILK paper or muslin, with
figures Of water plants sea weeds, grasses and the
Ike.
nous for their picture dresses, but these con-
structed on very different lines from what Is known
as artistic costumine. The former reproduces rs
nearly as the skill knowledge and resources Of the
modste win permit historic costumes, or those
which have become 70 in the hands Of celebrated
painters. Cost must be no object, for the richest
materials are rs usually required and failure TO
allow the use OF something or less costly would
be made responsible for any incongruity or short
coming. Artistic dressing, the other hand,
means comfort at moderate cost on natural and
graceful lines, and the more recent apostles seem
" have succeeded In what Ia certainly a praise
worthy effort.
AS We at Tennis Played.
She tossed her bali this way aud that,
~ an kad tvI arf : o.