Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1887-09-21
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
IFALL CHANG E Es-CosTUMEs WITHOUT
CHANGE-MHMNERY-O GAR
MENTa-coNcIUDING CONCLUSIONS.
[From our Female Fashion Correspondent
Throughout the. realm of dress, the
changeable will. rule, It is the leading
thought and without change. The female
will be composed of changeable velvets,
silks and even felts, while thereupon will
be placed changeable ribbons and feathers. |
Dress: materials are changeable, and acces- |
sories change that there may be pleasing |
uniformity. Even woollens follow and imi-1
tate as far as practicable the lights and
shadows of silks and velvets; but in woods, |
the soft bleudings possible to richer goods, |
become mixtures and often degenerate in |
to lines of different color, travelling zigza
and continually interfering with each other
while other crookednesses bring variety
One color also looks up through another,
but in tortuous ways that differ indefinite
ly; but all with the definite purpose of pro-
ducing indefniteness. It seems, therefore,
an uncertain world that we shall live in
no4G w luIoI, duu III THO iuluob VI ouOh pea
plexities, the eye will rest with the pleasure
produced by change on
TAILoR-MADE SUITS
| of Interchangeable cloth. Yet even here, the
recording angel must write s'change." The \
orthodox opinion regarding them has been
that they were utterly to be condemned un-
less of one material. A new doctrine is now
| in favor of two, and two colors therefore we
shall have. Authority determines that the
lighter shall compose the nndershlrt, the
darker the waist and draperies with touch
es of light on the corsage. The highly
orthodox 'tailor-fnish'' will also give way
this season to braid which may twist and
twine, especially on vests-since the vest
lives and flourishes. As q memory of the
past, pinked cloth edges come up, and with
two. colors in juxtaposition will be promi-
nent feature in trimming cl0th-suits. Some
stylish tailor-made suits, however, are of
one color and material throughout, the
principal difference from last season being
the introduction of new colors. Brown is
prominent, shading from dark seal until the
nut browns are reached. Navy blue is also
in much favor among colors TOR the fall, and,
in three shades, is succeeded by bright,
positive, and light blues. Tan and gray are,
of course, comparatively little seen in cool
IN.
ouished. and is in the dark varieties. Deep
slate succeeds summer grays, and the olive
and myrtle green's have much showing
Plum will be popular, as also garnet, cardi- |
nal and scarlet Dressmakers are supply
ing themselves with Clark's Mile End cot
ton as frequent substitute for sewing silk
on account of its smoothness and strength
and likewise because dyed to match novel
hues. PIaids also bring change, and while
some show indefinite blendings. others come
in former distinctness of outline. The
plaided costumes of the summer were, many
of them, profoundly pretty, and winters
cold will not kill the thought that gave
them birth. They will be repeated in wool:
for the most part with plain wool, waist and
plaided skirt, but changing at times to 9TH |
er combinations.
MILLINERY.
In ribbons, there is, of course, stylish |
changeableness-th chief novelties being |
"glace moire," double faced gros grain
showing two contrasting colors, single faced
with changeable surface and those which
display old tapestry or jardiniere effects s.
Striped ribbons are in much variety, being |
wrought in alternating colors and texture,
and satin or dotted gros grain with moire
or satin edges. Many new ribbons have
plain edges. Some show satin band, while
the latest idea, in fancy edge, is Grape
like border. Feathers fall in so readily with
changeable ideas, that they are largely i'm
ported and in great variety. Cock's plumage
has extraordinary prestige and is arranged
IN bristling groups of slender feathers In
different colors Different colors are often
contrasted in the same feather; gilt being
prominent, and while punches of black
cocks plumes are very stylish adornment,
yet all through the family of feathers,
changeable or forescent colorings are pro-
duced, reaching even to ostrich plumage.-
Leading shapes in bonnets are small and
crowns are lower, while brims display much
more variety ofoutline than formerly; some
turning back; others projecting; others
again, unequal ON the two sides, and num-
bers have coronet brims. Velvet is the
leading material, but gros grain, moire,
faille franchise or Bengaline will be used,
while, as a marked novelty in felts, come
varieties so soft as to be folded over in
plaits.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS.
Coats and Jackets, between which is a
distinction without difference, will be ex-
tremely popular for young girls whose slen-
der figures show to advantage in this class
of garments so fatal to well-developed ma.
turity. Dressy jackets are tight-ftting at
the back and usually in the front likewise,
unless vest is inserted, in which case the
fronts may be loose, though oftener, button
ed over, Material is fine, smooth cloth,
cork-screw or diagonals and striking styles
have a white vest elaborately trimmed with
gilt. Braid is the usual trimming for these
dress-iackets, and is sometimes placed IN
quite fanciful designs with mixtures OF gilt.
Rough cloth, jackets are looser and the ma
terial shows indistinct mixtures OF cross
lines, stripes or zig zags, in various eolors OF
subdued effect. The stylish wraps of late
SO much in vogue, will be the choice for
older ladies' and, reaching not below the
waist, will serve to show pretty fall Co.'S
tune while giving. some warmth. New
markets and Raglans again flood the mar
ket and are welcomed by everyone whether
old or young.
IN CONCLUSION.
Conservatives will choose not to change
while even those who love change, will, at
times, as a change, choose outfits in which
no change appears Thus there will be
room for the plain as indeed is always the
case and for the class who study economy,
it is advisable to select something standard,
like black silk or cashmere, or if some
fancies of the day be thought preferable, let
them not be too numerous One or two
costumes if made to do good service in their
day and generation can conscientiously. be
discarded when their day is past and give
way the more readily to some fresher
thought. Duty commands the chronicler
of fashion to write of what is notable and
novel, but one must remember that there is |
always large background of things not
written of but whose existence must be |
taken for granted. They are worn from |
season to season-as suitable for winter as
for summer, and correspondingly safe In
vestments. Yet even of these do not have
too large supplies. Styles in making
change, if not materisl, and this "making-
over" business is not unfrequently sorry
one. ROsALIND MAY.
Balmy odors from spicy islands,
| Waited by the tropic breeze;
SOZODONT in healthful fragrance
bx,