Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-02-12
THE FASHIONS.
AS LAID DOWN FOR FEBRUARY
IN NEW YORK.
The Various Materials to be Pcpu-
lar, and the Styles in which They
are to be Displayed.
New York Times.1

New York Times.
The use of plush has become so general
that it is now seen even on evening toilets
for young ladies. Two kinds of plush are
sometimes employed on one dress. For in
stance, a costume Of some fine wooden fab
ric has on the side or front of the skirt a
wide panel of fancy plush. The overskirt,
which separates over this panel, is bordered
down the side, where it opens by band of
plain plush. The plastron of the waist and
the cuffs are of fancy velvet. The lower
part of the waist is trimmed with plush.
The bretelles, which become narrow to-
ward the lower part, and the officers collar
are of plain plush. Very simple toilets
have only the plastron and collar of plush.
There is also way of trimming the skirt
to give il the effect of full plush under
skirt. This consists in having large panel,
with triple plaits ON either side. The plaits
are of the same goods as the dress.
Galloon is now employed on all parts of
in great varieties. There is a cachemire
galloon worked on silk etamine galloon in
relief; beaded galloon in colors and of
pearl beds only, and galloons in all hues to
match the dresses on which they are used.
Galloon called plum neige" is employed
on the small dressy outer garments and for
large carriage cloaks: 1t is of feathers in
all colors. Galloon is not only used for
bordering outer garments, but also for
trimming the sides of underskirts. 1t forms
lengthwise stripes called "bayadere"
stripes. Galloon also serves for waists
which are cut in V shape, back and front.
Sometimes the trimming is arranged to
initiate sailor collar. A very neat 'garni-
ture" consists of loops of galloon turning
upward to form collar, and similar loops
turning downward around the lower part
of the waist. The same trimming surrounds
the sleeves Ribbon is used in as great pro-
fusion as galloon and lace. Whole panels
on skirts are covered with small ribbon
bows. Bows with long ends terminate
with tags of beads or of light passementerie
work. When wide ribbon is taken around
a pointed waist it is tied on the side in
several loops with long ends. Very wide
ribbon is usually of faille, while the mar
row bows are preferred when of satin or
MORE.
Black velvet dresses continue to be in
stvie, as they are useful for ladies who go
very little in society, as well as for those
who are constantly at balls and entertain
ments. With two waists, this toilet serves
for all occasions. The skirt is round and
the train is added to it. These dresses
generally have a little black or colored jet
trimming to tighten the somber effect of
the velvet. The skirt may be plain on the
sides and open in front over large apron
of black gauZe or grenadine, covered with
JET beads in various designs. Grenadine is
used for this purpose, as it requires strong
texture to bear the weight of the beads.
This grenadine may be over black or col
| ored satin or faille. When the beads are
in such shades as old gold, dark blue, vio-
let, heliotrope, garnet etc, then the lining
is in the same shade as the beads. light
drapery of the work is taken around the
body in panier style and fastened on the
lower part by twisted piece of wide rib
bon. TIE high-necked waist has small
pieces of jet work, which can be removed
+, for the waist to be open in front. The
sleeve terminates below the elbow, and is
trimmed with Jet work. This sleeve may
| be also of the tulle over the arm, while the
under part is of velvet The waist for full
dress is either open in heart shape back and
front, with the short sleeves crossed over
| the shoulders, or it may be full low
necked, with branches of flowers and dia-
monds combined, tax n from the waist to
| over the shoulder.
Gloves worn with ball dresses are moi
| quite as long as they have been they now
| terminate below the elbow, while last win
ter they extended above it. The most ia
yored color for undressed kid gloves is light
pink, OF flesh tint. All light shades are
worn, however. For mi-toilettes the
| light shades of putty continue in vogue, as
| they correspond with dresses of all colors.
Long black gloves of dressed kid, bordered
with a band of fur are used with black
toilets OF velvet satin and beaded lace.
Waists cut low in fichu style are much
used for ball dresses. Velvet and plush
waists matching the skirts are trimmed
with fine lace. They open square or in
| heart-shape III front, and close by means of
a kind OF " corselet" of another material,
which may be white or colored The corse-
| let is of lampas OF brocades worked with
| beads or of piece of fine embroidery with
| the design surrounded by threads of gold
or silver. A lace fichu is crossed and taken
in under the corselet. If a guimpe" of
tulle or lace replaces the fchu, it is ar
ranged in the same way. Sleeves are pro-
| fusely trimmed with lace. Some of them
are open, with the lace showing in several
places through the open paris, and forming
a full, flowing trimming on the outside of
the arm. Waists are often pointed on the
| border of the basques, with a lace ruffie
coming from underneath to produce the
effect of lace vest with basque showing
between each space left by the points.
! The following toilets, made for recep-
tons and visiting purposes, are among the
newest styles brought out in Paris One of
them, dress of scabieuse" velvet and
| light pink satin, has round velvet skirt
with flounce Oh the lower part lined with
pink. The velvet waist has four long points
lined with light pink silk and trimmed
with jet ornaments in light scabieuse."
| These points fall low on the skirt, and the
long tassels, which complete them, reach to
the lower part of the same. A small puff
| fling is between the two points in the back.
| The upper part of the waist opens over
ruching of pink taffetas. The turned down
collar is worked with beads, and a small
officers collar inside of this is wholly of
pink beads. The eapote for wear with this
toilet is of velvet, lined with pink and
trimmed with PINK plumes. The mutf
matches the dress, and is trimmed with
tassels and 'scabicuse" passementerie. On
top of the muff is rose placed in the CEN
Ter of lace rosette. Frenchwomen now
use for dressy purposes natural flowers
placed in the center of their muffs. The
bonnet strings may be fastened by Ola
mona pins. AHOlner uIeSS VIII d tTdlu Is
of seal brown sicilienne and plush. The
front of the skirt is covered with reddish
brown beaded passementerie. The panel
trimming on the side is in two pieces, one
falling over the other, and divided by a
piping Of sicilienne. The train is COM
posed Of alternate stripes of plush and
siciienne, each half breadth wide. The
! waist is half plush, half sicilienne, and
the collar and belt are of paSsementerie.
The seal plush capote matching this dress
has light blue and seal plumes. The vel
vet mutt has squirrel among bows, and
is lined with light blue. A visiting dress
for a young lady is of light gray and
mouse colors. The underskirt is Of plain
gray velvet The tunic forms polonaise
of fine cloa1 in the same shade. 1t but
tons on the side and is draped high. A
cording fails over the draped part and on
the skirt. 1t is of gray silk and beads. On
the upper part of the waist is piece of
embroidered velvet The cloth sleeve is
half long and laced by means of a silk
lacing over second velvet sleeve which is
Ia 81 Sc cgri ali