Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-03-05

character at so previous date. Among
them are combinations OF fine wool cam
ePs hair with watered silk in shades of
brown or gray as well as black. The de-
sign shows narrow plating OF the silk
upon the edge Of the skirt, panels at the
sides, a single, diagonal revers and high
collar and cuffs upon the bodice. The
WOODEN skirt hangs In straight folds at
the back and has row OF buttons on
either side of the straight panel at the
right. The left forms a winged drapery,
which leaves space for additional orna-
mentatiOn upon the silk If desired.
A more elegant style for spring wear
consists OF soft long-haired cloth skirt,
embroidered to depth of quarter of a
yard at the bottom of the skirt In front,
and showing a repetition OF the embrOid-
cry in straight band up the front OF the
basque and upon the high collar and
cults. The drapery is long and arranged
so that it falls fiat In series of graceful,
graduated folds upon one side. The work
upon these costumes is done by hand in
beads and chenille, in flowers and green's,
upon browns and cool stone-colored
cloths.
Black faille Franchise is very fash
lonable for Lenten gowns and for
spring costume purposes. 1t is
almost uniformly trimmed with
Jetted passementerie, and the finer
and lighter weight these are the more
costly. The new designs in these trim
mings are Melted in mesh, which is made
TO show color beneath, and is often
festooned with chains. This style super
seeded the drops and pendants, which, sus-
pended by single siiken thread, have
made trail for months past wherever the
Jetted woman happened to wander. The
chains are very graceful and very elegant
when they are OF fine quality, but they
need to be we'll made, for break in them
or in the series of festoons which they
form upon the front, upon the shoulder
and upon the sides OF dresses could NOT
easily be remedied.
There are some beautiful passemente-
ries. however, which are not dependent
upon these additions. They are made in
fne and close patterns, like coats of mail,
but are light, because of hollow jet and
highly cut. Some OF the costumes are all
black, with bonnet TO match; quaint lit
tie affairs. The crown hollOws up to
point at the back, and the small brim IS
split and irregular, one side laying over
The other, with trimming-leayeS, hQwers
or 0rnaments--in the opening between,
which 10 little to one side, not directly
over the face.
But the all black are not so fashionable
in which a little color is introduced.
Peach blossom and marigold are the ia
vorite shades, and they assist the illu-
minating process wonderfully when used
with care and skill. The color CLEANS
under the belt from the panels Or side
forms; from the plastron or vest; from the
collar, the revers or the pointed chemi-
settle at the throat, and the bands or
pointed trimmings upon the back of the
basque.
A very new style of making a skirt is
shown in a combination OF black and
heliOtrope. The skirt forms number of
black panels Give }, between which bande
of beautiful jetted passemenerie form
stripes over plating of heliotrope satin
merveilleuX. The bodices of these dresses
are trimmed lengthwise, and the sleeves
are sometimes striped in the same way
to the elbow. The design is excellent, for
white, embroidered dresses for summer
wear, or for any embroidered cOttons the
trimming of which is made in bands.
THE POLONAIsE AND THE SPENCER
both promise to be useful adjuncts to
summer wardrobes. 1t is not wise, how
ever, to make up white cotton, muslin or
linen in this way; they "muss" too easily
and are too dead and chalky. Cream
wool is much better, or figured Saline,
either of which make up effectively and
may be worn over velvet, Yelveteeu or
silk-trimmed skirts. A cream wool polo
naiss looks well with brown velvet high
collar and cuffs, over brown velvet or
velVeteen skirt, and is particularly well
adapted to indoor wear in cool climates.
Where the Thermometer goes up to 80
dogs. in the shade, foularde Will be found
more agreeable, silk finished and worn
q Gillian Fri mr. 1ad oh
The spencer proper is for girls. 1t is a
pretty, round bodice gathered into a
oelt or made with spring, above which
the skirt is fastened and the ribbon belt
placed. 1t is made in solid, silk foulard,
black, brown, blue, pink, olive or lilac,
and has full sleeves gathered below the
elbow into a deep shaped cuff, which
may be covered with lace or open en-
broidery, matching the tint or tone of the
skirt. The skirt may be Bingham, cam
brio or any kind of white or colored, thin
cotton Or wooden goods.
A great many thin wool and cotton
dresses are made with full sleeves: and
for summer wear the cuff may be narrow,
extending only part way over the arm
and edged, instead of covered, with lace
or open embroidery. The cOl0red en-
broideries in browns, in brown and yell
low. in blue ana red. i'll gray and olive,
and in Turkish or Indian blendings of
color are becoming great feature of
summer dress decoration. One way of
obtaining short pieces in very handsome
patterns Is to buy the beautifully en-
broidered towels, cut the embroidered
strips or borders off, sew the fringed and
open worked ends TO the plain linen and
use the colored work for panelinS or
bodice trimming.
TUE
all takes the form of the old ''habit shirtn
now called a plated vest, which shows
the habit bodice will retain the popu-
Iarity it has acquired from its neatness of
form and general usefulness. Underwear
is no longer restricted to simple and SER
viceable materials or standard forms.
silk has taken the place OF linen and cot
ton with the luxurious, and lace Is used
more lavishly than upon dresses worn
outside.
Nightgowns of ecru, Verona silk,
Valenciennes lace and full sleeves.
shade of the gown. Others have
Of alternate stripes of silk and lace. In
the meantime, women who stick to the
traditions and have not 80 much money,
cloth, tucked and Dutton-
for 81 80 each, and alL04oP garments in
A ladies' literary and scientific society
in W ashington has the dress question
under sdvisement for the purpose OF find.
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