The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1887-10-22
STYLISH TRIMMINGS.
Hints That Will Help Ladies In the selec-
ton of Early Winter Dresses.

Hints That viii Help Ladies In the selec'
ton of Early Winter Dresses.
Apropos of the prevailing styles OF
sleeves, it has been said that they are
certainly large enough for any heart
to be worn upon. Arms which little
while ago were encased in sleeves SO
tight that an upward movement was
decidedly uncomfortable, are now pic
turesque or at ease in the bishop or
some other fancifully pulled style. The
full puff extending from below the ell
bow to the shoulder is usually held in
by ribbon, braid or band of passenae's-
terie, which combining section some wit
has dubbed "the Order of the Garter"
For tailor suits the coat sleeve obtains,
but for all other styles there is de-
cided liking for the more elaborate ar
engagements.
On the cuffs that are frequently a
part of these sleeves fanciful decora-
tions are good form, and gold, silver
or oriental embroidery, coarse lace or
ribbon arranged in stripe fashion, may
be used, as most in harmony with the
style of the gown. A sleeve that is
gracefully full, without the extrava-
gance of the bishop shape, has its cuff
covered with black and silver passe-
menterie, the material being black
serge. A sleeve of white nun s-vailing
has its large puff divided by rows OF
| stirring, and over these is band OF
fiat silver braid about an inch wide;
while the close-fitting portion below
the puff is decorated with row after
row of silver soutache. An otherwise
simple bodice may be made to appear
quite elaborate by the style of the
sleeves, and as a fancy sleeve is much
easier to fit than one in plain coat
shape, the desirability of the former is
easily appreciated.
The disposition of the bodice trim
ming really means that of the gown.
for on the smartest costumes the only
skirt decoration is provided by the
arrangement of the draperies. Fine
passementerie formed by braid joined
by lace stitches (sometimes called braid
trimming) comes in sets comprising
V-shaped sections for the bodice, a
high collar and deep cuffs. The V
sections are very broard at the top and
narrow gradually to point. The de-
sign is usually made up of curves and
curls-the indescribable one known as
arabesque In all the shades of gray,
mauve. tan, sage, red, navy and Lin
coin, as we'll as in black-and-silver and
plain black, these sets are noted and
approved. A tan-colored cashmere is
made with plain skirt over which the
drapery falls in long, graceful lines.
| The tablier is plated ut the top and
draped to fall in a straight line on one
side and curve upward gracefully
nearly to the belt on the other. In the
back the drapery is boufant, Topped in
pouf fashion, and reaches to the edge OF
the skirt at the center. The bodice is
well fitted position; Vshaped or
nament of tan paSsementerie is securely
f stoned at one side, and, after the
bodice is buttoned, is hooked to posi-
ton covering almost the entire front.
The high collar is hidden under the
same trimming, and the pulled sleeve
has its cuff similarly elaborated. A
fold of ecru ribbon is the neck finish,
and the pretty tan-colored gloves OF
undressed kid are drawn well up under
the cuffs. The hat is a soft felt in q
dark shade of tan trimmed with
flowers that are still darker. The all
of this toilette is decidedly good and is
certain to be approved by even The
most eaptious of critics.
Jets we have always with us, but il
is only the fulfillment of our own de-
sires Their flash and glitter endeal
them to the feminine fancy, and jet OF.
naments seem one of the few frivols
that receive the approval of men. Bu
there are Jets and jets. Some OF the
decorative adjuncts are entirely OF jet
while others show combinations, the
favorites being jet and steel, jet ant
amber and jet and "Job's tears. '
Jobs tears" by the by, are the lates
novelty in the bead world; they arr
small gray berries that are found in thu
West Indies. and their shade has al
especial vogue just now. The ''tears'
are combined, and very appropriately
with Jet and also with steel beads, thu
latter association being as effective Al
the former and the air less mournful
The contrast between the hard woodeI
look of the berry and the glistenins
steel is very pleasing.
Epaulettes are often included in Sc
| of head orarnitlIres Int their use nrp
supposes plain sleeve. The 'fish
net pattern is preferred for them, ant
long pendants, not u,like sharks teetl
in shape, form fringe that falls upol
the arm. Some cpaulette ornaments ar
seen composed of Jobs tears" alone
and others in which these berries ar
alternated with round jet beads, tn
fringe being jet pendants. A yer,
!, smart set consists Of plastron, epau
lettes and collar made of tinely-cu
steel beads and "Job's tears" Tn
plastron is short V in shape and i
formed of the jet beads closely strunl
together, gray berry being place.
! exactly in the center The long pend
, ants that outline the shape are Q
, sharply cut steel. The same close Ell
, feet is preserved in the collar, and
row of the clears is arranged alon
he top.-Buttertck's Deljmeator.