Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-04-03


silver buttons, which are riveted on with
minute silver nail heads. The sides OF
the po!onaise are held by square pockets,
Which are real and very conspicuous; the
back is long and gracefully draped below
the bodice, which IS ornamented with
depressed lines of matted silver braid,
which are outlined and inclosed by folds
OF the wool; show perhaps an inch in
width over the bu5t but arrive at point
at the waist. This reduction of width in
trimming as the lines approach the waist
is a feature OF the spring styles and is
very becoming to stout figures.
The Insertion of color in the lines OF
trimming on the boddioe IS also useful,
because effective and capable of variety.
Gold, silver, red or blue braid or gored
strip may be introduced at pleasure or in
accordance with the purpose or convent
ence OF the wearer.
Braiding is distinctive feature of the
Redtern costumes. The operators are
brought from London and Paris to exc.
cute the work, which has all the effect of
the richest embroidery. An all.black
costume is marvel Of work and an exact
copy of one made for Queen Victoria.
The bralding Is executed fiat, in three diff
ierent widths and in rich circular and
curved figures interlocked and inter-
narrow front of the skirt, enriches both
latched 10 form the design. 1t covers the
sides of the front of the bodice, form 8
deep epaulettes and cuffs for the sleeves
and an ornament upon the high side OF
the skirt, near the waist line. A long aud
stylish pOlonaise of Windsor green cotn
opens upon one side, disclosing braided
panel IN green and oxidlzed silver upon
stone gray engallne. The bodice show 5
u single diagonal revers OF Bengallne,
braided to match the panel and high
braided collar. The newest style of pol
onaise Is open in front or at the sides, and
is draped In long lines from the side OF
the front, which is caught in a series OF
folds fastened with silver clasp.
When the front Is draped the back of
the skirt hangs straight. Small checks,
in which there is line OF cOlor-wine,
old china blue or brown-are made up
with solid wool in the contrasting cOlors,
the solid material forming the pOlOnaise
and foundation skirt; the check, the
panels. revers, collar, cuffs, vest and the
like. Trimming, with the exception OF
buttons, is not required.
Some very large plaids appear this sea-
son with grounds Of cream color and lines
of old gold. brown and black. These
make up into stylish skirts, with blouse
or jacket bodice, but are not fit for entire
dresses.
C1MIL 81 LhOs
Novelties in stripes are com binations of
wide and narrow stripes In the same
colors and materials. They are found in
ordinary linen, In bauiste and in cottons.
the wide stripe is used for the skirt
which is innocent OF flouuce-the narrow
for drapery and for the full vest In front
OF the bodice, which is of the wider
stripe. Striped buff muslins. Ia high
vogue many years ago, are revived. They
are made straight, with two skirts, the
lower one having a single ruffle about
five inches III depth, the upper hemmed.
The bodice open, V shape, crossed and
gathered into the belt, making diagonal
line from left to right. The sleeves are
full and gathered into cuff at the lower
part Of the arm.
A great deal of work is put upon wool
as well as silk in braidIng embroidery
and fine finish of various kinds.
Daily the detail OF dresses becope9mOre
Intricate and the combinations Of elegant
toilettes more dependent upon the skill
and taste of the trained worker. But in
the meantime artistic ideas give currency
and certain cachet to the most simple
forms and ideas. The merely superfious
has been largely gotten rid of, and it is
found better to be truly rustic than show
lily and vulgariy "genteel," or as we now
phrase ii, stylish"
The beauty of truth in fabrics is
acknowledged; in time 1t will be de-
manded, and it is no longer made depen-
dent upon cost. Color aud texture are
elements 0f positive value and they are
as often found in cotton and wool as in
silk. This fact, and the absence OF much
that made clothing WEAKNESS, affords "A
fine opportunity for girls to fill up their
summer wardrooes with pretty gowns of
their own making.
A dress OF delicate cream-colored mus
lin, worn by young lady recently, was
the admiration of all who saw 1t. 1t was
draped upon the pointed bodice with
esprit net and belted with wide watered
ribbon which formed a bow from which
her fan was suspended. Never looked
so well in your lite," said every one, to
her evident delight. "Who made your
Dress" finally asked one more curious
than the rest. ''Made it myself. Bought
the muslin for loo. yard. Whole thing
cost less than 49," was the whispered
reply.
Materials were never cheaper than they
are to-day-not even "before the war;"
Fine cheviOts, In the almost invisible gray
and white and brown and white checks,
are sold for SOC. per yard, A inches wide,
less than half the former price. Surah
silks at 81 and 81 % will outwear gros-
grains at S2,and woods Of every grade are
serviceabIe, adapted to all
seasons and ranging in price from Zoe. to
the cost OF rich silks.
Cottons and thin all-wools afford the
best opportunities for experimental work.
Twelve yards OF any simple material and
a paper pattern are all that is needed.
Rufiies, cotton lace trimmings, the loop
ing and punching have all disappeared,
or II still retained only make gown or
garment look old instead of new.
All yoked designs are IN vogue, and may
be varied indefinitely by tucking, EN-
brOidery, trimming with bands OF unequal
length and making them deeper or not so
deep, square or pointed. 1t Is the "Daby"
waist revived, with yoke attached.
Shirred or corded Jokes may also be used
by thin girls, and the pretty "French"
waist, which is plain upon the shoulder
and only gathered in slightly at the belt,
by the stout ones. The skirt may be gath
cred straight or slightly eored and
finished with draped apron, turned over
OIL the left side la washerwoman.
Simple summer styles are so attractive
and so much more youthful than more
elaborate ones that all girls should seize
the opportunity TO add to their own at
fractions by making and wearing them
while they can.
OUT OF DOORS.
There are no changes, except In mat
ters of detail, to chronicle IN garments
FOR out OF door wear. The dressy little
designs of last year, with fitted, basque