The Memphis appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1886-1890, 1887-10-02
THE FASHIONS.


The new chaugeable watered silks
and velvets are extremely rich and
elegant in effect.
Green in many distinct tints, from
golden green to the dark moss and
myrtle shades, is conspicuous color
in autumn millinery. 1t is used in
conjunction with black, white, jon
quill yellow, pink, Persian lilac, ter
ra Gotta, certain shades OF blue, no
man red, Venetian bronze, and many
novel neutral tints in plush aud vel
vet shot with contrasting color.
A stylish costume is made Of dove.
solored India cashmere, combined
with gray aud white plaided velvet,
and trimmed with white and silver
gimp. The cashmere is arranged as
q long polonaise, opened at each side
and buttoned diagonally across the
front, the buttons reaching from the
left shoulder to the right hip. There
is full drapery at the back, and the
sleeves Of cashmere are cut IN points
above the elbow, from which issue
close coat sleeves OF the plaided vel.
vet. The points Of the Vandyked
sleeve are bordered with the gimp.
Pale and deep tan plush skirts are
worn under autumn gowns Of various
colors and materials. The silk waist
lets and tan colored gimp trimmings
are then added to the bodice. There
is also new reddish brown, similar
10 the old fashioned Bismarck brown,
which is shown in costly dress fab
RIGS, aud is also commended by the
French and English for outside
wraps, either coats, newmarkets,
visites, to be worn with dresses OF q
deep contrasting color, or TO brighten
black gowns. These are as fashion
able abroad as the Neapolitan coats Of
vivid Roman red.
A complete novelty for evening
dress consists OF cuirass bodice
made throughout OF open beaded
passementerie to wear over a second
waist Of lace, net or silk. The
bodice is shaped much like the peas
ant waist OF other days, aud is as
rich and effective as il is expensive.
Velvet is also used Tor these bodices,
the edges, which curve to a point
below the chest. and at the back just
below the shoulders, being enriched
by a hand embroidery OF garnet,
amethyst, bronze Jet, emerald, or
terra Gotta beads. This embroidery
also shows at the lower edge Of the
bodice, which is cut in an extra
deep point, front and back.
English tailors are sending to
America handsome coats made OF
pilot cloth, German broadcloth and
fne diagouals, in dark autumn colors
OF bronze brown, terra Gotta, moss
green, heliotrope, wine, mulberry,
dahlia, aud the like. There also are
imported extra heavy jerseys, which
are 10 be worn during the fall 10
lieu of jacket. These are elegant
ly finished and decorated. One Lon
don costume shows 4 skirt Of plaided
surah, in colors OF terra Gotta, Vene-
tian green and bronze, the plaids
crossed with q vivid line OF gold:
Added to this skirt, which is draped
in a very original and unique man.
ner, are two walking jerseys, one OF
terra Gotta, trimmed with rich gal
looms in cashmere colorings, the
other in Venetian green, decorated
with narrow passementerie in bright
gold.
The fashion Of wearing tea gowns
has so increased within the last two
years that a number OF these pictur'
esaue aud graceful dresses hnd {
place in tho most modern wardrobes
These gowns are made in much
more elaborate fashion than was a
first the case, when they presented
the appearance merely Of an improve
ment upon the robe dc chambre
and we're simply donned between thu
time OF changing the afternoon toile
and dressing for dinner. Fren,l
and English designers now Civ,
special attention 10 the tea gown
and vie with each other in produc
ing striking novelties and effects
The original intention Of useiulnes
and comparative ease is lost sight oil
in many instances the figures bein
90 closely fitted that the gown ma
be worn at q dinner party by tn
hostess, or at any informal socia
gathering.
The basques OF new autumn tailo
gowns, notwithstanding the fact tina
they are made Of wool, are this sea
son elaborAtely trimmed in from
The sides Of basques arc considera
tly longer than those worn for a yea
past. The pleated vest, the SUPPLE
front tapping from side TO side, Oh
separate waistcoat covered wit
bTaiding or appliques in silk gimp
and folds, and revers Of all kind
are Just as fashionable upon woole
dresses, both light and heavy, q
upon the diaphanous toilets Of III
summer past. Among new YES
worn beneath outaway jackets al
those which show a pointed yoke
velvet 10 which is shirred fu
waist, this brought down closely
the belt 10 trinity arranged pleat
with deep girdle above made
velvet matching the yoke. TIL
yoke vest Is sewed 20 a plain siles
waist at the shoulders aud the al
der arm seams, and buttons snug
up the back.
Games Of the Ch~apness OF suga