Indian chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1882-1902, 1887-06-30
CHARMING DRESSES.
black and white CoStuSnes In Variou
styles aud Materials

black and white CoStu1nes In Various
Styles aud Materials
Black and white dresses are very
fashionable this season, not merely
for ladies who wear light mourning.
but for those who are in colors. These
nre made in various materials-sum-
mer silks, gros grain, cashmere and
white moire with black lace, or else
with the new striped brocadcd silks
for skirts with lace ovcr-dresses. A
French costume worn at afternoon
weddings and receptions is Of striped
summer Bengaline in quarter-inch
stripes alternately black and white.
made with pcplum-polonaise. the
pointed sides Of this over-dress fall
open In front to disclose scarf-like
tablicr Of white China Grape edged
with deep netted fringe like that seen
On Canton Grape shawls. Another
very dressy costume has n full plain
gathered skirt in bayadere half-in0h
stripes Of white gros grain and black
satin, made without trimming. except
Over this is a polonaise Of black China
Grape, hanging in points in front and
back. showing the striped shirt almost
20 the waist, VIII lie the corsagc has
the stripes set in the back, front, and
sides. A simpler dress for mornings
is Of black India silk cross-barrcd with
white lines. made up with corsage
that has q long basque back and short
bias fronts meeting only at the waist
line, where II Is fastened by ono button
over chemisette vest Of eNquisitely
fine linen cambric laid in small tucks
and brier-stitched Surah silks in inch
blocks Of black and white are used for
gathered basque and short over
skirt, with lower skirt made up Of
lengthwise rows OF Chantilly insertion
and grosgrain ribbon. Smaller checks
of black and white, called shepherds
check, make pretty basques shirrel at
the top, and trimmed all around from
bust to hips with lengthwise rows Of
black watered ribbon pointed at top
and bottom, giving a cuirass effect.
There are also ietted girdlcs or peasant
bodices made in lengthwise bands, inn
ported to be worn with black aud
white dresses, or with plaiN black lace
or silk dresses. Pleated skirts are
made Of striped silks that have bro
cadod white flowers on black grounds,
forming inch-wide stripes that alternate
with plain black gros grain stripes; the
basque and draperies are then made
OF French lace over plain black silk.
| Combination dresses Of black silk
sVrah with the skirt Of large black
and white plaid surah are made with
the skirt laid In side plaits that show
10 the belt on each eide and Ia the
middle Of the back. The drapery OF
plain black surah has pointed apron
made OF two breadths with seam down
the middle) In curved or pointed folds
carried up in plaits TO the top ccnfn-
ing the tablier 20 narrower space at
top than was formerly done. A pointed
wing Of black surah Is then put down
the back each side Of the plated plaid
silk, or else there Is a squarc-cornored
drapeiy Of black ON each side Of these
naits. The plain black surah basque
has n shilyed vest and scarf ON the
sleeves Of the plaid surah, Other
dresses Of these materials have the en-
tire skirts Of plaid urah, with plain
black surah basque. Black cashmere
is also made up as a basque aud over
skirt, with plaid or striped black and
white surah skirts. HarDer's Raror-