Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1887-04-01
CIVILIZED JAPAN.
Foreign Dress and other Important
Innovations.

| to the Tribune Most of there have proved
to be naturally and properly connected
with definite sytem of development, how
ever contrary to the national traditions
they may have originally appeared. The
adoption of the Gregorian calendar, for eX-
ample could have been undertaken only by
government thoroughly confident in its
own strength aud well assured of the do
clity of its subjects. 1t was as unwelcome
to the mass of the people as any possible
change could be, but it afforded striking
evidence OF determination to bring the
country into more direct accord with
European and American ideas. The order
requiring all government officials to wear
foreign clothes seemed at first arbitrary
and trivial but its enforcement relieved
the Japanese diplomatists from much of
the impertinent curiosity to which they
had been subjected, and greatly simplitied
the conditions Of their intercourse with
strangers. Each year has witnessed inno-
vations political as well as social, the an
nouncement of which has excited general
establishment, not to say anxiety. In al
most every instance, however, the meas
ures have resulted satisfactorily, and
the apparently rash experiments have
turned out to be short cuts in the direction
of practical and substantial reform.
| There are occasions, nevertheless, when
it seems impossible to reconcile the gov
ernment's proceedings with any rule of
discretion or sound judgment Ancient
usages are assailed and overthrown, not
under stress of necessity, not from consid-
GRAFTON for the popular welfare, but. so
far as can be discovered from some mo-
| tive scarcely compatible with the coun-
| A n m
iary radical sweep, 20 which no person
can attribute a sufficient cause, is at this
moment agitating the entire body of Jap
anese society, throwing one sex into eX-
element and bewilderment and spreading
dismay through the ranks of the other
| The empress has emerged from her con-
ventonal seclusion, and, in document
which certainly has no precedent in Orien-
tai history, has signified her will that the
women OF the empire shall put aside their
customary dress-the dress of their ances-
| tors from time immenorial- adopt
that of the remote West. That Japanese
empress should address her subjects on
any topic is marvellous enough That the
national costume should be her topic is
more marvellous. and that she should
recommend this remarkable substitution
IS most marvellous OF all In fact, how
over, her ma jeSty is III no direct sense Tt
spon@ibe for the transaction. 1t is purely
an affair of state, which has occupied the
attention of that supreme circle of coun-
cillors known as the Dai 10 Kuwan for at
least five years. Ever since 1882 this aus
tere assemhage has been industriously
and ardently studying the question of
dress reform. The libraries of the senate
house have been loaded with fashion prints
and periodicals from Paris, and the ante
chambers filled with mysterious struc-
lures of wire and whaleboue. the aspect
of which might have awakened unfair
suspicion that return to the barbaritleS
OF punishment by torture was contem-
plated. Whatever may be the underlying
purpose of the impending change, it will
not have been instituted without ample
deliberation. The extent to which the
investigations have been carried, and the
methods employed, would form an anus
ing chapter of eastern court records if
the details could be unreServedly reveal
ed.
Whether the august gentlemen who
govern Japan held II beneath their dignity
to appear as the origluators Of the project
or whether they doubted their own au-
thority in so delicate matter, must be
left to conjecture. Having decided what
was to be done, they took the discreet, If
not altogether valorous, course of com
munlcatlng their intention through the
mouth of the empress, whose person is
dear to all in Japan, and whose words
would be sure in almost any case to com
nation was issued at the beginning Of this
year, and before the holiday festivities
were over the ladies of the capital We're
rlvalling each other in the most eXtrava
CANT efforts to conform to its admOnitions
The results of their struggles are not yet
apparent, but it goes without saying that
they VIII make Il dreadful mess of every
thing, and when the newly ordained fash
ion extends all over the land the conse-
quences will be distressing. Nothing
could be more dainty, graceful and becom
ing than the familiar garb of the women
of Japan. If not in all particulars model
OF C nvenience and comfort, it is in those
respects far superior to the style by which
1t is to be replaced. The freedom and
ease which its Wearers have enjoyed must
now be exchanged for a constraint to
which they cannot become accustomed for
generations. They will not only suffer in
the flesh themselves, but will be cause of
suffering in the spirit To others, for they
will be hideous to bahold. The idea of
accommodating their frames to the in
! coming modes cannot be grasped by them.
| With many advant ages Of form, especial
| ly in the upper part of the body they have
| certain defects which will be cruelty ag-
| graVated by the uucun genial attire. Not
one III a thousand will know how to wa k,
| for the peculiar gait winch has been es
tabi1shed and confirmed by centuries of
| habit will cling to them is long as they
| live. Undoubtedly there may he eXcep-
/ lions; but every one couVrr>ant with the
subject knows how rare they must be. and
/ can testify that the Very p"ettiest OF Japd-
! ucse girls is apt to be transformed into an
| api- counterfeit Of gentle Humanity when
she arrays herself IN anything but the
! plant and picturesque native robes, That
the novel apparel Wll be acceuted willing
/ ly, and even with enthusiasm. Is very pos
~ible, for the mere name of fashion has a
spell of fascination which no woman in
any corner Of the earth can ea-iiy resist
hut It must be accepted at the cost OF
the power to charm for many year tc
| come.
AS for the men of Japan, there is nothing
that can make the change tolerable &c
them In the first place the expense will be q
crushing weight. Half a dozen feminine
costumes, though OF he most commonplace
description, would exhaust the revenue OF
an ordinary japanese for a year. 1t MAY
be set down as IL certainty, that the great
majority will find it impracticable to com
ply literally with the requirements of the
edict. The real foreign vestments being
unattainable, some sort OF substitute must
be devised, the effect of which will proba
bly, be still more narrowing. In the large
fNu .l.s.. ~ bon Ia L.