The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-10-29
PANORAMA OF FASHION.
sHE REVIV.Ai. OF MANUFACTURED
TRILIHriNGS.

Flower Effects Applied to Silken
Undorskirts The Goddess Knot -
perils of the Past -Seasonable Cloaks
and Wraps Popular Styles and
Elegant Combinations - Attractive
Effects in Nantes, Ylsites and
Dolmans.
NEW York, Oct IS Fashion would not
changing; and though it seems to move in a
circle, Yet the revolving panorama always
manages to throw up something different
and new in the way Of combinations
Manufactured trimmings have been ignor-
ed for the past five years. characterization
has been executed with pieces of constrast-
ing material and effects" obtained by put
ting two or more fabrics, colors and shades
Of color together. Evidently trimming
manufacturers came to determination to
make an effort and put stop to this state
OF things Passementeries have been re-
yived and appear in an infinite variety of
ingenious and effective designs, that are
formed like an embroidery of wheel pat
terms, fan shapes or network of braids in
terloclled and fastened with minute but
tons; or lattice work with border represent
ing frame
Some styles are finished with heavy
fringeS, with beads or tinSelled threads in
termixed; others show knotted cords in open
squares, with small balls, like Irvine, hanging
by twist OF the same in Irregular pendants.
Military cords and aiguilettes appear but
they are less elegant than the finer orna-
nlsnts, which show lace like stitches and
are in fact, reproduction in black silk of
the cotton cord and tape put together with
lace or embroidery stitches, as cuffs, collars
and cOllarettes few years ago, and which
made for the time being a new and much
lauded industry.
1t is fact, indeed, that the deft hands
which were thrown out of employment by
the sudden collapse of these Handmade
lingerie, are now engaged in the effect to re-
habllitate the paSSrnenterie form of dress
trimmings; so that with hundreds, it is not
question of fashion, but of bread and but
ter. The improvement in them shows per-
haps experience gained in finer work. The
forms are no longer enlarged buttons,
S'plaques," palm leaves and coarse trepil
patterns, but spear heads, epaulettes,
elongated bretalles and fisher-like trim
innings. The military braid, cord and tags
are arranged in sets of festoons for the
skirt, as well as the bodice; the group of
those cable cords beginning at the throat, on
the right or the bodice, and terminating at
the left on the top of the shoulder over the
arm. The elaborate pieces for front of
skirts or panels are very expensive when
they are of all silk and in the new lace and
embroidery patterns; for as much work is
expended upon them as upon hand braid
ing and embroidery; the difference being,
that the designs are less original and exclu-
siYe-more conventional; and that materials,
such as cords, braids, wire for wheels) small
buttons and the like, are brought into play
TO aid stitches.
Lo THE POOR BEAD.
With the revival of these dull, black
gimps and passementries, beads and beaded
trimmings retire into the background The
reign of glitter has perhaps BEEN long
enough. Beads have certainly lasted longer
than ever before, except among the abor-
igines But then, great skill has been
brought to bear upon their manipulation
and arrangement. Nor are they yet quite
displaced. Great efforts are naturally made
to get rid of the costly beaded trimmings
still on hand, and for snowy purposes there
is nothing that can take their place. The
large designs however, and large, beaded
effects have quite disappeared Black Jet
and white jet are used less in patterns
Then to cover a surface of lace, satin or
velvit with a sort of gold or silver dust, the
elements of which can only be detected upon
close examination.
This also is true of the use of colored
beads and tinselled effects upon costly ma
terials. They are showered in minute pat
terms or grouped in small triangular or dia-
mond pointed figures, and sometimes cover
a skirt as small, artificial fioweretS have
covered some skirts of white or black tulle
for two seasons past.
In Paris, these pretty effects in small Jets
upon tulle, are arranged in three colors upon
black, ruby, green and brown or amber and
used for bonnetS, panels, corSage trim
mlngs and for the transparent fan, which is
just now the Indispensable accompaniment
of tulle bonnet. These embroideTies are
executed by hand, They are not always
done in beads. They are softer and pre-
feired by many, in silk or shaded chenille
particularly by those who are tired of
beads.
But really, the great merit of the fashions
to-day is, that you Can choose for yourself
and make fashion as well as another if YOU
can succeed in working out an attractive
idea The worst feature of the passemen-
terie trimmings is, that being raised from
the surface and usually composed Of lighter
materials than the body upon which they
are placed, they soon grow shabby and
prove poor investment of the additional
cost of the dress or mantle upon which they
are placed. Still, the cost does not differ
much, whether trimmings are made or only
put on; the whole cost amounts to much the
same. Certainly there is little difference in
the aggregate amount of dressmaker and
dry goods bills.
THE AUTUMN DISPLAYS
made by the great Sixth avenue houses,
give the impression that we are nation of
twenty millionaires. The costumes on exhi-
bition on the occasion Of the ''opening"s-
limited now to this quarter-or to a celebra-
ton of enlargement of premises, were
marked at prices ranging from $3.50 to
1915 and no imported dress could be found
under the first price.
Simple gowns of wool, with velvet pam
els and mounting, but silk lining, were
SlS5. The most charming dress of the
whole seasons showing, was an evening
gown in cream satin duchesse by Rouzeand;
the ornamentation, most refined and beauti-
fully executed embroidery upon the
rich fabric in various shades of silk, with
gold and silver thread introduced. The
most snowy was q combination Of bright
yellow pedn dc sole, with yellow brocaded
flowers with green stems, tied i'll natural
bouquets upon a white ground. 1t was
dress that would need no telephone to speak
for it, for it would herald itself through
out the world. This was the dress for
which $57j was asked; but one could not
imagine that that sum could induce any
body to wear it.
1t is marvel, however. who buys all the