Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1887-05-08
TOPOCATEPETL.
TEE VOLCANIC MOUNTAIN OVERLOOK
ING TIE CITY OF MEXICO.
Passing a Lonely Night Beyond the Snow
Line-Tbe Ascent Finally
Accomplished.
(City Of Mexico special. I

[City Of Mexico spccial.l
The first object that meets the travel
ler's eye as he enters the Mexican Val
lev and the last that he sees as he de-
ro,ts is the glittering, snow-capped
cone of Popocatepetl-the smoking
mcuntain-rising abruptly from the
valley in which the capital is situated
10 an altitude of 1900 feet above the
sea At It's side towers another
pcak-Ixiaccihuatl-2,0O0 feet lower,
and vet covered with per-
relual sheet of snow. These two
irent mountains form the natural
Lallier on the southeast side OF the
valley. Although q volcano, Popo-
esfenofl has been dormant for such
oIcat period that many of the Indians
declare that it has never been active,
but has always been in its present con-
dition. Certainly from the City OF
Mexico it seems impossible that such s
cold. ice-cappcd mountain could ever
have belched forth fire and streams OF
lava which extended for miles in every
direction.
After having watched cold Popo"
Gcy after day for nearly week. my de-
size TO reach the summit became so
preat that ] determined to undertake
The trip. General Sanchez Ochoa, who
owns the crater and works it for the
sull hur, happened to be my next-door
nejchbor at the Hotel Iturbide, and
vey willingly granted me permission
to sleep in his ulphur ranch, situated
on the side OF the mountain near the
srow-line. lie also sent q note to his
sqont at Anocameca, the town from
Which the ascent is made, to as
tist me in making all necessary
prel arations fer the trip. Thus
rrel alcd. I left Mexico, first,
oNever. taking tie precaution to pro
vide myself with two heavy suits of
clothes, extra underclothinG, and over
coat, besides a good lunch. The only
WY to reach Amecameca ia by the
Mcrelos railroad, over line which
col siders safety tie important and
speed only a secondary matter. The
| train as made up seemed little mixed,
and vas not only for the convenience
| Of man. but beast and merchandise as
well. There was the day express, the
accommodation, and the freight, all
| combined in one. At every little town
| frtioht-cars were taken off or added.
vi ilc psssenger-cars were switched or
| changed so that nearly four hours was
consumed il making the trip OF forty
miles.
TIE TOWN OF AIEcAMECA
| consists of several small churches, a
number Of low, ugly-looking houses,
and a municipal hall. In the centre OF
| TIC rlace is the public square, with a
| low stone wall around it. 4 basin file |
with crystal water from the glaciers o.
| tie tWCmountains stands in the middle,
while on Ill sides arc Usage, lemon,
| and other tropical trees. The market
| edic.Ls the square, and there from
| ,aI,y mCl2in9 TIL noon scores OF
| mon. women, and children stand
| guarding their tiny stock Of vegetables
nEd flmt. On one side, and almost
tcv,r.ng over the town, rise the two
| e1cat reaks, apparently within few
hundred feet, and yotfully fifteen miles
| dissent. On the other side stretch
| fields Of barley, corn, and wheat, green
| as if an April shower lad passed over
thor, and yet not n drop Of rain has
fallen for months. The system Of irrl-
| qution, however, is so perfect that each
day the fields are watered by means OF
tie mountain streams, which are
houeht to the place by long bitches.
IN that manner n rank and rapid vege-
| ts'iou is obtained.
Urcn going to the municipal hall
| four d General Ochoa's agent waiting
fornc. His face beamed with smiles,
| ard from the warm welcome he gave II
was easy to see that the prospect OF
layiur visitor was Il pleasing one t.
| hin. The old fellow could not speak
q word OF any language except H.
own. but he understood what to do,
and led the way to some official who
could "speaks Fr0ncoiSs IN ties pen.
He proved to lie treasure in his way
End made, or rather prevented at
anarcemcnts from being made
The agent he declared, was &
verv kiud-hearted man and wa
always pleased to aid American
in very possible manner without
the slightest remuneration. He woul'
hno tie cuidCs, mules. and attendants
snd ] could pay him. Would he b'
kind enough TO give some idea of tn,
probable cost of the trip? OF cours'
| he would. and in lew moments nca
little ILL of S3G was made ont. Guides
WHO are only too glad to get from 80 t,
~ cents Il day digging sulphur III tn
| crater Of the volcano. were charged NJ
1T the rate of g Il day, while mules
worth from so to 3l5each, were PLACED
in the list at 81 day. Fortunately 70
ny Purse, | formed the Acquaintance
While in the capital OF one or two Mex
csn gentlemen who made the ascent tn
pIcyicus year, and in each case tn
total expense was only a trihe over 81
Aft,r looking the bill over ! told th
accom- odating agent that j wOul'
visit til the following day before un
duialiug the trip. | then setabout t
Lunt up guides and mules on my owI
heck, Tut my Spanish proved to be S
"lame" that l made very little pre-
gross. Each man, upon being spokel
10, would shake bis head and point t
the agents house, so that it really be
gan 20 look IS if that person had
mCrol oily OF the two staple articles o
tie placc. After hunting around an
wasting nearly three hours | becam
disguised with everything and deter
mined to
MAKE THE ASCENT ALONE.
4 haltdCzen roads, commencing 3
the public square, branched of in dit
ferent directions but small urchil
told me which was the right path I
take upon my placing n bright silve
reale in his hand. 1t is fifteen mile
from the town to the ranch where On
night is usually passed by those ascend
, ing the mountain. had lost 50 niue
time in Amecameca that the afternoo
was half gone before | was ready I
commence, but it was far better to stal
, ut that time than to stay over night /
the town. Fifteen miles over goo
| ! read is not bad days tram
, but to commence late in the aftei
| ..... ,vI wall ouor a porrOv