New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-10-02
WOMAN'S DRESS.
WHAT SHE WILL WEAR THIS AUTUMN.

they appear with now face, but the tout ensemble Of the
fashionable world win BE- that Of the summer With only
the change which heavier fabrics and hues always give
Tho better element Of American conservative
in matters of dres despite national reputation TOR
barbario show and gttera reputation created By few
vulgar persons who have delighted to make themselves
conspicuous in dress and Manners here and abroad
Worth Il continually sending to this market dresses
which bizarre In style that no would not dare osr
them to Partisan customers which fad buyers here
only among women Of uprefRsd taste
WOOL FABRICS AND SILKS
The new fabrics fer fall wear are soft oashmeres,
cloths and camel hair goods There are no new gosds
but some old materials revived. Drap dete which
popular for wraps dozen years ago. Il seen again
dresses combined With plush and other heavy goods
While English taors have been reducing the weight Of
their dresses every possible tho French cress
makers and ooakmakers have paid little regard t. this
matter and some Of the new wraps Of heavy material
ere so burdensone that only strong woman wear
them The materials for street heavier in text
ure tnan those OF last fall Plush matalass6 and ether
goods are used for peooats and trimmings Of
costumes with draperies and waist Of plaia
wsols. few costumes are shown with
skirts Of plush and long, straight DfTeeoire coats
OF the maalass1 In Persian pattern with touches o.
Oriental color Frightening the dark figure Of the Fabric
Such dresses will be worn BY few who arc I'M
able adopt the bouant paniersd Pompadour styles
While heavy wool goods the rule for the street. In
porters predict that silks and lacss will be chosen for
dressy occasions place of velvet and plush There are
still heavy goods imported and thore are new heavy
fabrics like satin brocates woven 10 tapestry shect and
mores with velvet figures and stripes These materials
however only for tabers or pstooats and
the paniered drapsres and square cut bodice pointed
back and and short the hips win DO made OF
plain satin or silk trimmed with abos and frllls OF SOFT
creamy ace--a wondrousy Effective setting to fair
blonde beauty. There arc great many watsred silks
and ferissant changeabe silks and satins among tie
now goods. Peau do cygne II new silk wRion
resembles in texture and color tho skin OF the
young plucked swan. Psau do nymphs and Poau
do sole are also named the importerS list OF new
silks These materials have surface Like Grape. but
high satny lustrs and win be very effective used with
Lace accessories. The most beautiful silks for evening
wear are tho ores and sans Dubarry rose, old blue
shadowy grays and other tnts Of Sevres porcslsins
which strewn with garlands or bouquets OF lowers
in natural colors These silks will be made up into
bouan costumes with psticoas and hip draperies Ike
those seen on wattsaus delight
full women with whom" says About man wouio DO
content to DO forever eating Ice cream"
The most noteworthy change In tho general makeup
of costumes Is OF draperes at the Sides
tendency TO fuller skirts and toward extremely hgn
draperes at the back Waists remain short on the mps
but are sometimes heightened into square tabs In 'front.'
and . long postillion at the back Fun vests OF
Various kinds very popular and sleeves arc
rather fuller than they have been. square
pyramid Of trimming Is set in the top OF the seeVs IN
many Of the now French costumes.
WRAPS AND COATS.
Tho drsssy wraps for winter VIII DO long eioAks
OF plush and fire embroidered and braided In Clad
crate patterns These wraps trimmed with fur ana
bands OF cocks pumes and ostrich feathers Thero are
some black plush wraps with trimming Ia tho fashion
ablo opalescent effect given BY palm leaves OF Inda
D,tto uad nm
plush will be used for these luxurious cloaks DARK or
liant ruby plush trimmed with black feather bands and
braided with black braids, are used Tor car
rage wraps while plush In the pale pronounced tint OF
ro.o porcelain used for and opera wraps ana
Ia trimmed with the curly white fleece OF the Angora
goat
The short coat introduced by Redeem last summer
which an, closely at the back and flows loose In front, will
bs a popular choice this fall for street-wear. Inc
tan and drab shades OF last spring are
seem Black general choice though there are some
coats in dark brown, blue and other cloth coors iho
fitting closely to the figure ana oraueo iu
military fashion straight lines across the 'front.' Win
olires Is = popular shape for young lades' o. uruh
mu braided to match this coat will be added 10 the WIN
tar and II the wearer fances high hussar-like cap
In the same nanncr added All tho new coats
for are quito only few NANTES are sod
The seams may be Tapped or strapped tnae
IA they may be covered with astrp OF braid OF co'n
stitched down on either sde or they may be hnished on
hs inside Wide bands OF Asrachan, bands OF plush and
Of fur arc used for trimming There are great many
abort Jackets deliberately braided Later In tho season
English aors will make short close coats OF seal
skin aud Astrachan for young ladies'
The finest proof coaks In market are OF Ehgsu
mako and cost from 81 so $40 each Silk
are exaustey featherke in weight and handsome ana
are 49,
MILLINERY.
1ty mad
dress occasions only used for dress bonnet fes
hats and bonncts and urbans OF cloth made BY the mill
iner or tailor OF the material OF tho street gown VIII Do
generally worn ordinary occasions
Ronnes ara considerably than last winter but the
trimming continues to massed toward the top ana
aIgretes are used heishten this effect Small CLOSE
ntng poke shapes arc generally chosen for dressy bon
nos The crowns Of round hats low aud square ana
thu "a are oon set directly at tho back or at tne
aida Oh many are still trimmed In front with clusters
and wings Turbans OF cloth to match the dress arc
simply ado Of folds pointed the edges and the hat Is
sn,shsd with cluster Of velvet loops knotted In
close bunch.
Some of the most beautiful bonnets OF black velvet arc
oruameuted with an applique OF white lace and
trimmed with simple cluster OF MORO rippon anu
long comb-like ornament OF brilliant Rhine stones
down tho centre OF the GRO Tho bonnet Is nnsnea
Inv s,rinrs of moire in No. IL width Many OF tho
straight rims of felt hats OF velvet whe others arc
simply bound with ribbon. These like all hats and bon
nets to be worn with street costumes arc trimmed 'ns
seasou TO match tho Dress They are often nnshed WIN
hrad.d hands and cluster of ribbon sat among abuhcn
~ cocks plumes The tailor hat or bonnet Is tho moael
for street wear though the work otener aono ne
Thsra are many nav colors in millinery: Old tapes
try blue and greens and moss greens arc all useu anu
GENERALLY know Gobeltn blues ana green's ao.'a =,
Gotta and mahogany shades have taken now oase %
eYistenco great many shades OF yellow arc useu !"
brighten up dark colors. Dark hame-coio H..
mill q
pra,,lan tspaz-is very much used IN
coniunction with colder colors I.descen Thnra
effects arc often seen In dress @
are few tips used but notified plumes 10 Two , Tor
extensively Imported Some charming l..o 10 veral
chnrch or reception Of velvet woven IA sc ,h.
colors giving fabric the changeaSe CrSc. Of q opa
onai tsy bonnet with soft pleated crown VI opss
Nnfed velvet was made with pleated brirn 10
and trimmed with stylish bow OF roooh anu Of blaeE
airsts in opalescent colors. Another ponnce U, v
a.rst WAS made with a soft crown finished , VIII
hirrsd front or mahogany coored ribbon ana i a
18th high cluster OF ribbon and an ow, s u "a
mahogany shades All stiffness OF Outline made With soft
hnna ~ velvet; they generally mhae VIII anns
crowns and peated brims Charming tSs All wfs