Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-04-03


the waist. The skirt, at the back, hangs
fuli and straight; the sleeves form at
once sleeves and cape and are the loose
"sling" shape. A striped BenSaline,
made into cloak of this description, was
lined with changeable silk-pink and yell
lovely peach shade.
Velvet was used for The collar and panels
ut the sides. Pongee, lined with tinted
surah and finished with velvet collar, is
used for summer cloaks; hut braiding or
embroidery upon the material would be
cooler than velvet for the high collar, and
a few fine lines ofcolored silk embroidery
might be used to form q border for the
sleeyes-shades of gold, brown and
cream, nothing to form a glaring con-
trast.
MATERIALS AND HOW THEY ARE USED.
Bengaline Is very much talked now. but
few know what it is. 1t is pure SILK.
blended in the manufacture with fine
wool; aud in the plain, corded fabric
looks very much like velontine, being
equally soft and ribbed in the same way.
the figures show contrasts OF dull, rib
bed and smooth satin surfaces; are inter-
locked and outlined with still heavier
cord than any seen in the figure itself.
Bengaline makes handsome skirts and
nantes. 1t is suitable for skirts to be
worn with polonaise of silk-trimmed or
braided cancels hair or cashmere. 1t is
not very costly, but il Is not cheap. 1t Is
OF the ordinary width, and costs here 81
per yard, in Paris Soc. to 81.
Brocaded silks, except In small
armure figures, have quite gone out OF
the market. Few are shown and these at
a reduced price. The rage for stripes
has restored MORE antique, in striped
patterns, to favor, and il is largely used
not only IN combination and for trim
ming, but for the trains of dinner and
handsome indoor dresses, tea gowns and
the like. Black mOire antique is FREE
quently and very suitably combined with
black woOl-eamePs hair for exam pie
The silk Is used for panel or narrow
front, for vest, revers or inserted bands,
outlined with galloOns arranged as loops.
These make very stylish black dresses,
and are well adapted for second mourn
ing.
1t is rather curious that though mourn
ing is less used than formerly, Grape is
very much improved, is lower in price
and sold in much larger quantities. 1t is
now no longer confined to black and
white, but is made in every shade of
color. The water is more decided than
formerly and resists the action OF mois-
ture better. Grape in cream white and
delicate tints Is used enormously for
drapery and tor millinery purposes, also
as base for exquisite embroidery.
where black Grape is used for deep
mourning purposes it Is used very freely.
Skirts, bonnets and NANTES are covered, or
nearly covered with it. 1t is no longer a
trimming, IT is material, and The wool
or Blk with which it Is combined is
hardly visible.
EASTER FANCIES.
Some very pretty dresses have been
made up for Easter entertainments OF eau
de Nil or soft gray faille com bined with
esprit net. This light dotted net is very
pretty and becoming, and Is therefore
used for the fuckers, which are now
crossed and placed inside low or square
bodice OF silk, and entirely forms full or
flowing sleeves. The back of the bodice
is cut In straight, narrow panels, and
from this the skirt hangs in long, straight
folds. The fan of feathers and the silken
hose worn with high shoes are the exact
shade of the dress, the black kid shoes
having but one straD, but very high heels.
These dainty costumes-delicate, but
not very expensive, and easily made at
home-are just what is needed later for
dances at summer hotels and watering
places. A detail of sash, which NAV be
varied from silk to net and vice versa and
serves also for front drapery, requires
nothing but a straight length OF silk or
net, put on in folds below the line OF the
waist in front, aud is knotted at the ends,
the arrangement bringing them both to
one side, without passing round the back
of the bodice.
There are only two forms of lingerie
one is the habit shirt, the other the
tucker. All embroidered edges, all tuck
Ings. are very fine and narrow, and this
miuuteness of finish extends TO the pocket
Borders, lace or embroid-
cred edges, are small and fine as possible;
but the newest thing, the handkerchief
covered with small dots or figures, men,
toned some months ago, is beginning to
appear more generally, and will doubt
less soon be copied and vulgarlzed in
larger, more conspicuous designs and
The interior finishing OF neck and
sleeves Of cloth and high dresses of wool
or silk has become elaborate and very ex-
pensive, II purchased ready made. Ruch-
Ing is little used. The fashionable edges
consist OF several distinct lines of doub led
cut on the bias and sometimes
inclosing single fine plating of muslin
DR. crepe llsse between plain folds OF ma
terial. The soft twilled silks, crepe and
crepe de chine, gauze, plain, silvered,
striped ana dotted, are pressed into the
service, to give variety and character to
sim ole folds. Pearl beads are much used
or beading, and gold and silver threads
are often used Ia addition TO the silken
loss, which has always been more or less
a part of the ruched edgings. The hand
work, especially the beading, increases
The cost, and if money or neatness are OBJ
ects a better way is to buy the pearl
beads by the string and sew them on one
self, so that they will not drop, leaving
Jagged ends after the first time of wear
ing, as most of them do. A still more sat
sfactory way is to buy all the materials
oy half-yards, cut on the bias, and make
hem to suit dresses. The cost will be
ess than half, the permanent value much
greater.
Colored cuffs and collars are revived
-or country wear in small checks and
stripes, which, however, are very dis
,inct. They are shaped as hei etofore.
,rly SIN all corners are again turned down,
and some OF the collars are attached TO
'habit shirts" instead of the smaller in
aide yokes. The cuffs are uniformly mar
row.
Lace vests are now made and finished
with lace and ribbon, so they can be worn
outside the dress and employed to
brighten up a plain one IL necessary.
Imitation Mechlin is best tor the purpose
and border lace 10 match, is employed for
the iabot or cascade effects, in addition to
handsome ribbons of faille in art shades
with pic0t edge. JENNY JUNE.
LEMON ELIXIR.