The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-12-31

In wraps there ore long cloaks, small
NANTES, ulsterS, redingotes, jackets, water
proofs, round fur-lined cloalzs and many
other varieties, all accepted; all, more or
less and at different times and seasons, worn
by ladies whose intelligent taste no one
would think of disputing The variety is
endless; the differences matters of detail
dependent upon individual circumstance and
! preference. A plain, Princess ulster, made
OF dark, green cloth five years ago, and
trimmed with black fur, is worn to-day ex-
actly as it was then, and with black muff
and black hat, as then, could be repeated
for twenty years and still be good wear.
Naturally, the mania for the Russian,
just now, has brought us something beside
the redingote. At bazar recently, the
dresses OF the lady attendants were very
! good copies of the Russian peasant and
court dress, one also representing Russian
bride. The married ladies wore the more
stately costume, the train of which is cut
IN the Princess form and plated from the
neck. This is repeated in some of the hand
some brocade dresses made for dinner and
eeremonious occasions this season; and from
Russia. also, we get the long "angel'
sleeves, with coat sleeves beneath and the
deliberately embroidered fronts of our rich
est gowns.
The only real Russian peasant dress rep
resented on the occasion alluded to. dis
played the Russian cross stitch ON linen, in
red and blue on cream, which has been of
late soynuch the rage in needlework. This
cross-stltch is the old-fashioned sampler
stitch, is quickly and easily executed in
bands for aprons-towels-the two have be-
come interchangeable since the Russian
mania set in-or for linen morning gowns;
hint for women who want to make them
selves something pretty for the spring.
Fancy bazars have become a substitute
for fancy dress balls. which have lost caste
In private circles. The English idea of
fancy, national or historic costumes has
been eagerly seized to add to their attrac-
lions, and Normandy caps and Swiss
Dodlces, the pulled out skirt and Pompa-
dour head dress rule ano occupy the
thoughts of society maids and matrons, to
the exclusion, largely, of that incessant de-
votion to everyday attire with which such
persons are credited.
PROMINENCE OF RIBBONS IN EVENING
TOILETS.
Ribbons play great part in the evening
dress OF young girls this season and add an
important item to the cost. They are used
In cream, gold or small brocaded stripes
upon tulle, or alternating with lace to form
skirts which hang straight and bodices
which are narrowed in at the waist with a
little fullness and widen at the top These
lovely skirts are made over others of net or
tulle, and these over an underskirt of silk
with narrow plating and a deeper one of
silk and net laid in the interior.
More snowy but less refined and expensive
ball gowns are made OF gold or silver dust,
or spangled net over their satin or soft
| silk, and are trimmed with gold OF sivered
wheat or literally ''pearled" barley. A
charming design consists of discs of silver
thread, alternating or overlapped by others
In tiny seed pearls; the garniture, punches
of barley made in pearls with silvered rub
Der stems. The French flower garnitures
| surpass anything attempted in this line for
many years, and show the faithful adher-
ence to nature, which was formerly the test
and evidence of Partisan artificially made
flowers. Long, hanging garlaads, with hair
and corSage bouquets from the "set,n which
exhibit punches of dog roses, trails of white
hops with green leaves, delicate heath and
shaded chrysanthemuInS. The flowers are
tied with satin, failIe or watered ribbons
and the floating loops and ends form part of
the completed effect, which is very pretty
III the maizes of graceful dance executed
with the somewhat languid movement of
the present day.
Some pretty dresses are made with fronts
of lace, striped with ribbon and Princess
backs of rose bud crepe-de-chine or bro
cade; but these look prettier and more effec-
tive in the nand or at a small party, than
in the ball room; unless the colors are very
delicately and judiciously arranged There
must be softness and harmony in figured
stuffs or a mixture of figures and color, or
there Is no rest for the eye or sense of salts
faction.
The cut of the bodice is pure matter of
taste and habit. There are circles where
all evening bodices are either low, square or
V shaped, and others where the wearer of a
low bodice would be the only one in a
crowd, and therefore feel herself very much
out of place. A square or V-shaped bodice
which can be filed in with a crossed piece
or ruffies of lace or tulle, furnishes happy
medium which always maintains safe, neu-
trail ground. Edgings of fur are much en-
ployed upon bodices worn at the opera this
winter and are becoming to many VINO
were not suited by the bald, bare edge of
silk, satin or velvet against the skin.
The fashion of independent bodices is a
most convenient one for occasions which are
frequent and semi-public. Half dozen bo-
diceS can be made to use with half-worn
silk OF lace skirts for the price OF one hand
some evening dress
ECONOMY IN WRAPS.
One of the most difficult questions which
lady has to settle for herself, who has not
large income and yet goes out more or less
into what is called society is that of an
evening wrap. A wrap sufficiently warm.
dressy and of good material, or even present
able at all, is not now purchasable undera
very high price-6fty, seventy-five to two
hundred dollars Round fur-lined c!oaks
and cloth 'Raglano'' can be bought fromNto
twenty to fifty, but they are not what is
needed The first is only adapted to ordin-
airy street wear, the second to the more
common and general purpose of a wrap
which will cover the person. These are
pretty forms, even in paper patterns, and
an abundance of charming materials which
might be worked up at moderate prices.
But there seems to be no one to do this
work, to individualize it and adapt concert,
theatre and evening wraps generally to
modest purses. Opera wraps proper are
very costly, and many of them have a
bizarre effect. To try to have one made is
to pay high and risk spelling the materials
IL paws to go abroad once in three or four
years, in order to be supplied with hand
some wrap at medium cost.
Cloth, tailor made dresses have reached a
point of perfection this season they never
attained before. For some time past it has
been a constant effort to combine warmth
and grace with lightness, and that perfec-
ton of fit which is the browning feature of
fine taior-made dress. This object has
been attained in recent costumes and it
must be Joy to wear them. The dress is
made upon twilled silk, the drapery raised
here and there, but not punched, the edge
finished with many rows OF embroidery
stitching, narrow braid, a braided pattern
or a broad band of feather fur. The line of