The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-04-29

she fascinated and made living the beau
tifnl Theodore gifdles Of silver and
strings Of gold beads have gained 3 cachet.
In dressing Madame Bernhardt never
makes mistakes and never is common
place.
Mrs. Langtry is to be complimented
upon her good dressing, which is de-
cidedly of the drawing-room, though
what she will be in "Cleopatra," which
she plays next autumn, can only be
gussed The silver-like gray pushes, the
soft framboise, the deep heliotropes and
the whitest Of white toilets are approved
by the English beauty She has the good
taste to prefer wool costumes, sometimes
combined with plush or silk, but oftener
made of the one fabric The wrap will
then be of plush, trimmeS with magnifi-
cent fur and lining that, contrasting in
color, makes of her entire toilet an artis-
tic study. Mrs. Langtry understands the
art of dressing, and makes her toilets
subservient to her beauty, though in har-
mony with it. Off the stage, in the house
or on the street, she is always well, hand
somely and suitably gowned The ar
rangement of her beautiful hair in knot,
low on the neck, was very generally
adopted by all the world few years ago;
just now she wears the golden brown
tresses either in Catogan plat or else
raised far on her head. By her assump-
ton of a mans Jersey on board yacht
Mrs. Langtry created the fancy for those
sometime attractive but very often care
less-looking bodices.
Ellen Terry is so plainly costumed and
so outre in her appearance off the stage
that she has never been regarded as a
leader of fashions, though her queer felt
hat, loosely curled, tangled mop of hair
and loose bodices were of course initiated
by the advanced school of aesthetics
However, as Mrs. Oscar Wilde is now
said to wear corsets, the day of gowns
that were ill-fitting, ugly and decidedly
suggestive of night dresses may be
counted as over.
A funny story is told of a New York
woman who was having gown made at
a tailor's in London, and serves to illus
strate the difference in English as she is
spoke" The American said to the tailor,
IF you keep me much longer it will be
fall before / get my body" The tailor
answered, II beg to assure you, madam
that you will not be detained until au-
tumn for your bodice" The American
said she felt corrected and was sure he
charged her for her ignorance in making
up her bill.
Some of the fashions of to-day are un-
accounted for. Who has set afioat this
sudden desire for all-black underwear?
Who has decreed that chemises shall not
be worn? In the reign of Charles vi
of France they were esteemed such lux
uries that gowns were opened at the hips
and the.under-garment drawn through to
show that it extended below the waist!
This is said to be the day of little
women because of the high bonnets,
close-fitting bodices and the heels upon
evening shoes. Who is the little woman
who is responsible for these? All the
great beauties and actresses are tall The
cause of a fashion may be found, but it
is very often concealed, so well that even
Monsieur Lecocq would have trouble in
discovering it.
OF beautiful belongings it is said that
Mrs. G. p. Huntington has the finest sa-
bles, Mrs. August Belmont the richest
sapphires, Mrs. Willie Vanderbilt the
most magnificent diamonds, Mrs. Mar
shall o. Roberts the rarest pearls. Mrs.
5. l.. M. Barlow possesses rare collec-
ton of laces, and Mrs. William Astor the
finest single sapphire, which is worn as
pendant on diamond necklace Mrs
Bradley Martin shines in magnificent
rubies, and Mrs. William Dinsmore is
noted for the uniqueness of her orna-
ments. When one of the Astors was
married some years ago present given
her-her bridal slippers-was covered
with real pearls, and put in satin case
deliberately painted with "lady slippers"
Mrs. Hicks-Lord diamond buttons are
probably unsurpassed, but buttons will
no ha oc N%ho ~
cause they are troublesome to arrange;
worn by this handsome woman on a black
velvet, with founces of rose point, they
are thoroughly effective and make her
look like picture of Van Dyck's.
After all, the law of fashion is not
stringent, for it permits much to the in
dividual, and the woman who is not wise
enough to understand this will never de-
serve to have herself spoken of as well
dressed" The art consists in the know
ing how to make the gown suited to the
drawing-room, the afternoon tea, the
dinner, the luncheon or, because of the
simplicity required, "pour tout aUer."