Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-04-16

TLAxcALA-rTs DECAY, POVERTY, AND CURIOUS
AMPHrTHEATERs FOR BUI1-FIGHTs-DowN 10 TEE
TRoPICs-ORIzABA, THE MEXICAN sANIrARIUM.
IruRBDE HOTEL CITY OF MEXICO, April 2, 1887.
| Correspondence of THE EvKxuzo STAR
| Itwas an exceedingly delightful detour we made
when, after leaving Puebla our Pullman train was
side-tracked at Santa Anna, and by tramway, with
four mules, at break-neck speed, we were landed,
after ride OF seven miles, at the little ancient
City OF Tlaxcala, the capital of the State Of the
| same name. On our way, after passing through
the quaint little villages of Santa Anna and San
Pablo Apelitlan, we drop into the Nesting valley
OF the Rio Axotla, and soon pass near the old
church, San Esteban, with history closely linked
with incidents OF the period OF the conquest. The
| early TlaxcalanS bore conspicuous part in van
gushing Montezuma- The city has only about
/ four thousand Inhabitants, and seems but q
bered 10000. Its one-story adobe huts, its
oilers s IN the streets, It's Old churches churches
for o owls and
the poverty OF its business interests and the slug
gshness of its denizens Saddened by this picture,
asked the only English-speaking person In the
! city what principal Industry engaged the atten-
/ ton OF the public. He replied there was none.
| There Is, said he an abundance OF silver, copper
but no one has the means or the disposition to make
| these mines productive. Our VISIT to the COVER
interesting, as we were there shown the original
charter OF the city, granted by Philip H.; the
spear OF Cotez the silk banner he carried the old
| Spanish title deeds. the robes the chiefs wore
when they were baptized, large collection OF
hdeOus stone idols, unearthed near the city, and
silver and gold the four great keys being carried
| by four different officials. There are also many
very fine portraits of distinguished Tlaxcalans and
an embroidery on silk, showing the first conflict
| with the Span1ards The governor, a full-blood
Aztec, received US very cordially, and through his
sa his saste anS 10y bs to voe
/ always do his best to make them happy
whenever they came. No Mexican city, however
poor, fails TO have great piles OF stone and mortar
| In the shape OF massive churches. Tlaxcala IS
not whit behind in this particular. In 1921 the
foundation OF the church OF san Francisco was
Laid. 1t stands high terraced hill, reached by
| broad stone paved way, the atrium and the
| great bell tower standing on the crest Of the hill,
overlooking the plain below. The visitor Will find
much in this old structure that is interesting.
one notes the carving OF the cedar beams the
| g1ded screen over the entrance or the chapel OF
/ Guadalupe, the antique woodwork OF the old
altar, with Illustrations of the life Of the Virgin,
painted In 1862 the altar of Dolores erected for
The "bur1al OF the angel children, and the paint
ings on the south side Of the church Of Notra Sea
De Europa and ON the north side of NOtra sea De
La Antigua. There is an old organ built in 172O-a
| turned, rattling and jingnng during service.
Three medallion pictures, near the chancel,
are worthy Of especial notice. Entering the chapel
adjoining the church there are very rich carvings
and gildings, with pictures inserted, which Will
attract the attention of every visitor There Is
highly artistic altar and beautiful shrine Of the
Mexican virgin Del PueblitO, and the old pulpit
from which, we are informed by the inscription in
Spanish, the Christian faith was first preached in
the new world. Here also Is the old font where in
1920, the four Tlaxcalan chiefs were baptized.
From the atrium of this church, ON the hill over
Shrine, SantuariO de Ocotlan Noticing an amphi-
theater for the bull fight being built at the very
front OF the great church San Francisco asked my
Englsh-speaking guide why the authorities per-
United Sucn horrld barbaritteS to be pract1ced on
the Sabbath. He replied that it was necessary to
SATISFY THE MASSES AND KEEP THEM QUIET.
1t is strange fact that while the people every
where in Mexico regard the bull fight with all it's
sympathy for thirsty dog prompts them to put
a pot OF water in their doors, fastened with
chain that the thirsty cur may Stake his thirst.
The visitors should not fail to visit the beautiful
terraced garden of private citizen which is filled
with choicest, rareSt flowers The plaza and gar
dens everywhere were fragrant with the perfume
OF roses SteV1aS, acaciaS, pinkS, sweet peas abu-
talouS and great trees were loaded with oranges
and lemons, and lines. Leaving the city, with its
and journey TO the southwark 81 miles to La
ESperanZa, where We Sde-track for daylight
journey in our tortuous scenic descent from the
elevated plateau down into the tropics. The sun
never came forth into more perfect sky OF deep
blue. In passing, 1t may be said all days during
the dry season are luminous with the golden sun
shine in this ancient wonder land. The scenery
ever changing as we journey, cannot be described
by pen of genius or brush OF artist and the tour
Boca del Monte (mOuth OF the mOuntain) Is 1924
feet above the level OF the gulf Down below nesting
like jewel amid setting of rich and fertile fields
lies the little village of Maltrata its roofs and
dOmeS radiant with a covering OF bright red tile
The scenery and high altitude make enthusiasts
OF the younger members OF our party, and they
climb the coaches, ride in the engineers cab and
on front of the boiler and thus decorated our train
goes Numbering down the fearful grade in long
circling lines into the beautiful valley OF La Joya
The little village presents constant succession OF
changed views as we sweep around 1t twelve miles
to compass distance OF three in straight line
Silver StreametS rush down the mountain side
watering the fields, covered with wealth OF grow.
ing verdure. To complete the setting OF this won
derful picture, old OriZaba'S snow capped peak
rises seemingly higher and higher as we descend
into the plain below. We pass two stations on our
way down this declivity, and at Malirata crowd
of girls, tempt US with oranges lines citrons
pears, SapadillOeS pineappleS, bananas pulQue
and other strange drinkabes and edibles. Leaving
interest. Our track hugs the mountain side. and
We sweep In and out through tunnels, over curved
bridges and alongside Of the rushing Rio Blaneo.
OF the valley Is emphasized by tall trees of the cas-
tor beam great azalias coffee trees, hibiscus and
wealth OF other exOtlcs. We pass Little He'll and
the grounds where Indian athletes in the lOng-agO
received prizes from the hands OF dusky maidens.
Passing an abrupt eminence, where a battle was
fought June IA, 1862 between native soldiers and
the French, We soon reach
oRIZABA, 1S1 MILES SOUTH OF MEXICO,
city OF low, red-tiled roofs, with $4,000 inhabi-
tants. The car shops Of the Mexican Railway
are here, and there is large cotton factory which
we visited as we jOurneyed by tramway though
It's orange and banana groves and its great coffee
plantations. The city is not lacking In churches
some OF which were founded In the fifteenth cen.
fury. Like all others in the republic their walls
are covered with extravaganza paintings OF dead
and-gone ecclesiasticS and canOnical saints
rms CITY mas native artist, Gabriel Barranca.
whose paintings found in every church In the city
are an exception TO the general rule With a
faclie brush he has pictured ''The House OF Naza-
reth with the Christ child, the Virgin, the tea
u, bench a N
ness and simplicity that is admirable The old
artist Is now blind, but he leaves son who in
merits the tastes and methods which the father
gathered rom studies of other centuries Orizaha
Is Inc Sdnltarlum and resort of the citizens OF
vera Cruz, and the fever-breeding low-lands OF the
Gun coast during the sickly season, and in the
winter IL Is favorte pleasure retreat-the real
ssaratoga OF the republic. Leaving Orizaba, we
ueseend rapidly On our way southwark cross
Ing the Metlae River on an iron bridge
go leet long, e2 feet high, built on a
three per cent grade with a curve OF 3o5
leet rauus On the opposite mountain side is
uarA, Hnpenetrabe jungle, where it is said
monkeys DaVe never been disturbed by the crack
Oh lAe huntsmans rifle. The scenery must be
seen-it cannot De described. II is dead fight
Det"een the mountains and the roadway and
three great bridges and five tunnels are passed
/ through ana over IN a space OF five miles Our
Tram stops and We walk through narrow tunnel
cut at rlgnt angles 10 The track into gorge where
stream dashes down the mountain side into a
cavern and becomes lost river, opening again
miles away toward the Gulf We sWeeD on
through the greatest profusion of Mexican fruffs
Inc banana, mango, pomegranate pine appIe
gu@Va, SranaditaS, chlrimoya, and other trOnicai
fruits are in endless abundance and are DurchaSed
IN great quantities by the caterer OF our hotel car