Los Angeles daily herald., 1887-10-16
DAILY HERALD.
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS.
AsRepOrted by the Fashion Eda-
tar af Harper,S ssBaZar.N


tor of Harper's sBazar."
English round hats bearing the
snark of London hatters are imported
COR young ladies' use in autumn and
winter. The low-crowning toque for
travelling and morning wear Is in es-
pecial favor, as it can be worn with
either a high or low coiffure, and may
he had in cashmere for the demi-sea-
son or in heavier cloth or felt for win
ter. The fabric is put very full on the
crown in fine pleats and gathers, with
the merest edge Of velvet below, or
perhaps projecting slightly in front
though not as distinct visor.
Braid toques are liked in all
over designs, with the braid set on
edge, and with rosettes of braid in
front. Higher English felt hats, with
tapering crown and narrow brim
closely rolled, are called the Torquay,
the Brighton, ETC.. they are severally
trimmed, like mems hats, with a rep.
ped band, flat bow on the left side,
and perhaps one or two quilts are
thrust in the bow. These English
hats will be worn with tailor suits,
and are neat and becoming. Many
Glossy beaver hats are shown also, but
these are trimmed for milliners, with
dagh loops in front of gay plaid velvet,
or changeable velvet or ribbon, ana
ornamented with clusters OF short
unills, five or six in bunch, or with
long gilt or old-silver ornaments.
French round hats are far more
dressy than those just described, and
with the small pointed pokes will be
worn by young ladies in preference to
oonnets. The Boulanger with its
brim rolled up high on each side in
military style, is the most masculine
style sent over by Paris milliners,
and is shown handsomely made OF
dark green felt with widely bound
edges, trimmed along the top OF the
crown with green MORE ribbon loops
and green cocks plumes. To match
dressy costumes of velvet. cloth or
silk. Young ladies will wear rouud
hats not unlike those of last year,
with soft, half-high crowns and velvet
'brims; the brim is made In crescent
shape, higher in the back, and much OF
the trimmings is placed behind and
on top of the crown. The small
.pointed poke, sometimes called the
T3o-Peep, is really stringless bonnet,
and will be worn again with soft crown
of embroidered cloth or velvet and
beaded brim, or else brim OF gilt or
silver cord passamenterie in open Lace
like pattern. Large and important
looking hats of velvet and lace are
also sent out from Paris, some OF them
With wide brims irregularly rolled,
and others with a broad poke front,
as in the Comtessa Sara hat with most
of the trimmings at the back of the
crown, and long ribbons hanging from
the back, which are brought forward
and tied under the chin.
French bonnets remain very
small, and their trimming is broad
ened and lowered, as will be
readily seen when comparing them
with the high slender trimmings OF
last winters bonnets. Felt and cloth
sbonnets for general wear may be plain
or with full soft crowns, or else they
are pinked on the edges, or there are
rows OF scalloped pinking forming the
entire bonnet. Embroidery, which is
great feature of millinery at present
is applied both to felt and cloth, some
times in narrow scalloped rows, which
alternate with velvet folds or ribbons
on the whole bonnet, or else merely
the crown is embroidered, with plain
velvet brim, or, on the contrary, the
embroidery forms band for the front
of an otherwise plain velvet bonnet.
A large bow with cross loops
in Alsatian style, yet much
fuller than the hat-looped bow of
Alsace, is seen on small bonnets, and
also on rouud hats. The fronts of
bonnets are most varied, some having
merely a cord of velvet along the
edge, with folds behind it, while
others are coronets covered with
beads. and still others have pinked
frills of silk, or small face trimming
of coquettish ribbon bows just over
the middle of the forehead. Winter
ribbons are used for bows, and also
for strings, but the short narrow vel
vet strings and slender velvet bow at
the throat are by no meals abandoned,
especially with felt and cloth bonnets
that are worn with tailor gowns.
Embroidered velvet is special fea
ture of dress bonnets for receptions
and the theater, the design being
wrought in silks and in tinsel threads,
TO which spangles OF silver, gold or
copper are added; the garniture is
clusters of the tiniest ostrich tips, lace,
and long slender clasps of Rhine peb-
bles and other jewel-like stones.
White and gold bonnets are in especial
favor, and next there are black velvet
bonnets with steel or silver spangles,
embroidery and lace. Jet and gold
are also often combined in the trim
ming or in the embroidery of the bon
net. The white and gold bonnets are
edged in front with black or brown
velvet to give becoming dark frame
to the face thus bonnet with soft
crown of white velvet in which are
loops of gold, has the front Of
plain white velvet, covered with
goid-spangled passementerie, and
edged next the face with black vel
vet folds, the short strings are of
black velvet, and the trimming is
loops of the white velvet holding |
black and gold blondine feathers
curled up high in the back. Green |
and black bonnets are as largely i'm
ported as they were for the summer,
and are made of green velvet embroid-
cred or spangled with jet, and
trimmed with black watered ribbon |
and black cocks feathers. Black vel
vet bonnets are also much trimmed |
with green, while others are spangled
all over with gold or silver, and trim
med with gold or silver gimp. Cop
per red and bright cactus red bonnets
are shown to wear with either black
or red costumes, and are toned down
by jet spangles, black birds, black
plumes, and either black velvet or
moire ribbon,
Felt and velvet hats for misses are
in sailor shapes, turned up in the
back, or else with stiff straight brims
the stiff English felt hat already de-
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