Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-01-15

Correspondence of the Sacramento Record-Union.
ZAcATEcAs. MEXICO, Dec. 81 invite you to dine
with me to-day, dear friends la Mexicana. As
am myself guest, we must touch the subject
tenderly, for, while the truth may be told at all
times, we would not abuse the generous hospital
ity shown us everywhere in Mexico by indulging
in fnvidous comparisons.
In spirit OF mutual good feeling, then, remem-
bering that customs OF all lands differ and that
Mexican would probably find as much to object to
in our methods we in his, let US repair to the
dining-room. Generally the most welcome words
that greet my ears are 'sVamOS conner" "a Let us
go 90 dinner9, for in Mexico nobody breakfasts
American fashion, but takes only tiny cup OF
chocolate or coffee with a little loaf OF Mexican
bread. which resembles badly "raiSed" break
fast biscuit. without butter or other aCcompani-
nient, Immediately on arising. That is the desdy-
or aiD7OrSHe. Among the upper classes the
real breakfast is much like an American dinner,
served in various courses, accompanied by wines,
and generally occurs between IL O'Clock q. m. ana
in tile afternoon. AS may he imagined. by that
| hour our wealthy Yankee appetiteS are ''Sharp
| set" enough TO do justice 10 any menu. however
| uDg'tessable conundrum the ingredients OF the
| dishes may be.
| Unlike other rooms OF the house the comedor
dining roofID IS often not even tiled with brick,
cemented. or 1Oored Mt ALL but its hard surface
though worn into hollowS here and there. is care
! fully swept and kept as sweet and clean as would
not De possible with carpets IN TINS insect oreed-
Tally In the city OF Mexico where the dining room
Is marvel OF luxury hut we are speaking OF that
OF the average wel-to-do Mexican. and OF the casa
| like thousands OF its class, which has been my
| home for many months. in Mexico carpets are a
rare luxury In ~, any mp par, oo OF tne ne
those OF cement, tinted in soft cOors and shining
, like marble, are much more beautiful and suited
| TO the tropical climate.
| Tie conledor OF my temporary home opens into
the sunny inner court, which at this time OF the
year is fun OF fruits and flowers Being paved with
rough stones, the court is raised a lew inches
above the level OF the dining room, and therefore,
when the brief torrents OF rain come, which are
common in this latitude, small flood pours in and
forms small lakes in the hollows made by much
showing about OF chairs, which the servants make
haste to bail out with plates The one enormously
wide window is, Of course, barred ON the outside
and its massive inner shutterS-without Stats,
| made exactly like those OF a shop or barn-are
never Enclosed. This house, like many others In
the interior or Mexico, has not pane OF glass any,
where, but its great windows. with their deep
lodges and protecting bars, are charmlnyy quaint
and pictureSdue-after you get used to the fashion
so foreign to American ideas.
As there is no communicating passage between
dining room and kitchen. the outer door or the
former stands always Hospitality open, both In
summer and winter, for otherwise it would be as
dark as q dungeon unless the shutter were un-
opening directly on the street, the ieperOs and
other gamins would swarm around in such num-
| hers that enjoyment of the meal would be impos-
sible.
In rather incOngruous contrast to the dirt floor
is handsome mahogany sideboard, with much
glassware shining upon it. Somsdistracting pieces
lajara pottery, In the line of water jars &c. which
we long to possess. The corners OF the room are
adorned with washstands. with bowl and towel ac,
compartment, the convenience OF which is by and
! by apparent in lieu of hnger-bowlS.
| The most distinguished guest is given the post
of honor at the head Of the table, other guests
seated at his right and left, and the host and
hostess place themselves wherever it happens.
| When we enter there is nothing upon the table
| but pile OF plates, heap Of knives, forks
| spoons and cluster OF goblets-al at the foot
Of the table, where stands the head waiter II
! this important functionary is a woman her head
| and shoulders are usually wrapped in her reboso
| 0or she wears only skirt and chemise), and the
| ends OF the national long shawl have an uncom-
portable habit OF topping into the soup and
thence helping to flavor the whole bill OF fare. II
| the waiter be man, he OF course, wears no coat
but frequently the omnipresent zarape, native
ci0uS SGnbrerO Is always upon his head, partially
covering his flowing locks.
| This midday meal whether we call It breakfast
| or dinner, is such an exceedingly ceremonious
affair as to necessitate great number OF plates to
| each person. There is little variation in the
menu, one meal being nearly the exact counter
| part of all others during the year.
AS the servants emerge from among the roses of
the COURTYARD bearing an ambrosta, we think Of
fairy tales and the cara bian NightSr-Only these
! errados 90 not much resemble orthodox fairies
nor Is the feed they bring like the ambrosia OF our
| First, broth is served in small china teac,1ps
each cup covered with hot tortilla (pancake) and
| is set upon plate, which also holds huge brass
| spoon. Mexicans have peculiar fOndneSS for fat
of all kinds, passion for that species OF redhot
peppers called chill, and a settled BELIEF that
onions are as necessary to life and happiness as
salt and sunshine; hence this broth-and every
| other dish for that matter-is always very greasy
very oniony, and burning with chilli pepper. II
there happens to be any ripe fruit in the house
notably grapes, figs or pomegranates-it is put
| into the broth and eaten withft.
The other day saw with delighted eyes some
big yellow peaches being carried into the cOmedor
and went to dinner in happy anticipation of at
last having something to eat like home food. But
what do YOU suppose they did with those peaches?
Actually sliced them, every one with the greasy.
| garlicky broth!
The second course is always soDo-eitber vermI.
CELL, rice or macarOn1-frSt boiled in water and
then fried in Oil with much garlic and garnished
with slices OF green peppers. Sometimes stewed
tomatoes are mixed with it. goats milk cheese
| is crumbled upon it, and the greasy mixture is
! eaten with spoon.
| Then comes the main dish of the meal, which
never varies. throughout the whole course OF a
| Mexican's natural life-the same at least once a
| day throughout the 365 days OF every year-an
| ollo podrida OF boiled beet, mutton, sausage
chicken. pork, veal. cabbage, onions, small green
apples or pears with various tropical roots seed
bulbs and vegetables not known at the north-all
cooked tOgetnerin one pot. 1t Is served I'm pro-
| miScuous heap on big platter, and is eaten with
chill sance to which red-hot Goals would be mld
comparison o.: The amount OF pepper which the
candy inclfneS to the belief that The Mexican
..inner man" certainly must be copper-lned and
dOuble-pated.
The nearest approach to roast meat comes in the
next courSe-a piece OF pork or young goat stuffed
with spices herbs, chilli, and chopped onions, and
Drowned. What We consider a roast is no more
easily obtained in Mexican markets than beef
steaks. The cattle are the 1ankeSt OF creatures
and when killed their flesh Is cut up into humps
| and strips regardless of "grain," in q way that
would strike an.Englsh butcher dumb. AS there
are few stoves with ovens for roasting or grid
irons for brOiling, the meat is cut with especial
| reference to the pot or frying pan.
The boiled dish Is followed by q variety Of en-
trees, each In separate cOurSe-Such, for in
stance. as chlli-cOn-carne-meat cut into bits
boiled in grease and seasoned with tomatoes and
4 nlai 10
pork and onions, and fried in batter pork hashed
| with onions cheese and scrambled eggs: cheese
or milk boiled with Chilli the brains Of q kid
To he ScCOped out OF the boiled head and spread on
| ones tOrtiiia, &c.
Invariably, at every meal, in all Mexican house.
holds-hlgh ana low. rich and poor-the last dish
before dessert Is frejoleS small red beans. They
are stewed SOFT generally in OIL and to neglect to
eat them after each meal is not only breach or
etiquette but would be considered indubitable
evidence OF bad breeding. Some people pour mo-.
aSseS over their beans, while others prefer to mix
| think, reader mine, that you and viii take them
straight"
At MISUNDERSTANDING the repast tortiIlas are served
| smoking hot from the griddte. These little cakes
as before described are merely boiled corn crushed
into thick paste With little water CxitnOut salt
or sodal and baked on fiat stone or griddle They
| are never brought in on plates, as we have pam
cakes, but the servant piles them in heaps on the
table cloth near the host or hostess who distrib-
| them around the festive board with deyterOns
toss precisely as cards are dealt out in the limo.
| cent game OF ''casinO.'
II bread Is used, it is laid on the table in the
loaf and II one desires piece he carves It to s,lit
| himself. The wines are always OF good quality
either imported made from Mexican cranes
Spanish clareG being the favorite home beverage