The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1887-10-25

into the early winter There are new models
made In a variety of shapes, most Of them
close fitting to the head. Nearly all the fa-
yorlte ,t mash hats nave IN bngR cT1wns one oi the
broad Drim turning up high upon the crown
at the left side, and faced with velvet. The
crown is nearly concealed by fall of broad
ostrich plumes. When the high-crowned
hats are small, the trimmings are put at the
back, inclining forwardlover portion of the
crown. White felt bonnets and hats I Iimm
ed with golden brown or black velvet, with
aigrettes and tips to match, are among the
inexpensive head coverings for the theatre
and opera.
A writer for noted English journal has
this to say about the fashions: This win
ter, it is understood in the world of dress
maker, Sardou's new play, La Tosea,' Of
which the costumes are in the style OF the
Directory. Will start the winter styles, and IN
anticipation of the Recommending OF the so
cial season there is talk of diminishing the
hustle, shortening the waiste, and combining
the styles of Louis XVI. and the Directory
into a modern Neo-Greek style. Meanwhile
Worth continues TO satisfy the tastes Of his
exotic customers, but his creations do not
wholly make the law. Indeed, nowadays it
is hard to say who lays down the law in mat
ters of fashion, beyond, Of course, the ques-
tions of materials, colors, and trimmings
which depend really upon arrangements be-
tween manufacturers and buyers"
A magnificent Partisan gown, imported for
the wife Of United States Senator, is made
of orange-yellow satin Drocaded with half
open moss roses. The overdress Is OF cange-
able satin in crimson and gold. The brocade
forms the petticoat, and the half low bodice
is draped with folds of pale gold tulle. An
other gown from the same designer Is of a
superb amber Lyons satin brocaded with
scarlet velvet carnations, with corsage and
train of rich dahlia velvet. In front, just be-
low the edge of the corsage, two draped folds
of the danask part over the br0caded satin
skirt, at the hem Of which is set a Bayzan-
tine pattern in ruby, amber, and dark shaded
green and bronze beads. The velvet corsage
Is draped with yellow lace in old point pat
ters.
1t is still considered best form to have the
hat or bonnet in exact correspondence with
the costume. Ii it does not exactly match
the color, it should be decided contrast, but
as this is such very perilous adventure for
those who are not schooled in the art of col
or effects, 1t is strongly advised that these
would better by far trust to similarity rather
than contrast In selecting their winter cos
tunes.
New contrasts in color, and the use of fine
broadcloth. are two features Of the most ele-
CANT French tailor gowns. Other tailor
costumes are made Of soft pilot cloth and the
ladies' cloth of beautiful texture. Not only
are these gowns made for the promenade,
but also are in high fashion in Paris for
bridesmaids wear, and even for bridal dres-
ses. Dove and ''silyer gray" are two neu-
tral tints much admired and exceedingly
popular for these dresses. In one model a
heliotrope cloth dress opens over vest and
petticoat of pale apricot cloth. A sage-green
costume has a lower skirt Of gray cloth bor-
dered with golden-brown fur. Dark green
cloth costumes are mingled with Lochinyar
or Stuart tartans. Cream-white or milk
white broadcloth costumes braided with gold
or silver will be worn at the opera en- suite
with bonnets of vely ETY. white felt. Feather
trimmings. bands Of dark fur. and silk cord
oTnamen.s VIII pe tnelr special garnsuIes.
plush and fur in combination with cloth.
The plushes are most varied in design, ap-
pearing in great blocks, bars, stripes, water
ed, changeable, and in close imitation Of fur.