The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-03-18

both in piece lace and as trimming.
There are also entire mantles of
crocheted passmenterie, silk with
jet beads in the meshes, and in de-
signs like gallon wrought in, with
bead fringe on their scalloped edges.
Colored Innings are placed inside
lace and beaded mantles.
For small mantles of wool stut1s
for general wear the sling-sleeve
cape will be used; also to complete
suits of striped or barred stutfs Or Of
plain wool. A cord on the edge is
the only trimming required. A hood
is sometimes added, but it makes
bunchy Carmen.
Serges and canvas cloths in checks
and plaids are imported in light col
ors for tailor dresses to take the
place of the plain white serges so
long used and form parts of dresses
in combination with plain cloth
The cream white serges with
bars of red and blue an iuch apart,
or those with green added to the red
and blue in smaller bars, will make
very gay dresses for the house in
town and for outof doors in the
country. The designs for these are
the simplest postillion basques with
a widely pleated kilt skirt bordered
with velvet and apron drapery that
falls low in front, is shortened on
the sides in funnel pleats, or in two
deep cross folds, or else is gathered
under large square pockets, while
the back falls in folds it's entire
length. There may be q plastron of
surah with box pleat and side
pleats in the basque, but there will
more often be only collar, revers,
and cuffs of velvet, and this velvet
may be green, red or blue, to match
the bars, or whatever color is most
becoming to the wearer.
The checked serges are also used
as pleated skirt under a long pol
onaise OF summer cloth of wine.1 DIOR
plum, brown, or blue, trimmed with
braiding in vine pattern or in Greek
squares done in soutache the color
of the cloth. An ecru wool checker
with green and red is under prin
cess polonaise of wine colored cloth
The front of the polonaise laps to
the left side, and is turned back on
the skirt as a revers, which is braid
ed; this makes long deep side on
the right, while the lett is very
short, showing the checked skirt. and
has large square pocket there max
ing that side look like coat. The
middle forms a continuous, in prin
cess fashion, and the backs are drap.
ed in two long points.
Wool crape-called crepeline-
| fine camePs hair, cashmere, and can
vas Woelens are being made up in
house dresses and for afternoon re-
captions in lovely soft shades of
blue-gray, of pale violet, Suede, red
dish heliotrope, or moss green, The
pleated basques with folds on the
shoulders. tapering to the waist are
liked for these dresses, or else they
have separate waistcoats one of
velvet, and the other of white wool
wrought all over with silver or gold
or bronze cord, or else merely trim
med with row of points or blocks
of metal braid, silver being preferred
One side of the drapery of these soft
stuffs is usually short and the other
very long, with the lower skirt quite
plain, or else in the very wide side
pleats that are again in favor. Velvet
is added on the basque and there
may be some rows Of velvet ribbon
down the pleats that are sometimes
formed down the longest side of the
drapery.
Black lace dresses have not vet
reached the climax of popularity, as
novelties are constantly being sug
gested in them. The point d'esprit
dresses are inexpensive, simple, and
pretty, and are worn alike by those
dressing IN mourning and in colors.
The tisher's-net lace with square
meshes now has figures of roses or
leaves added, and is made up effect
lively over satin. French lace imitat-
ing Chantilly remains the popular
lace for such dresses; and the last
imported lace dresses are of the Flor
entne guipure now so fashionable
tor mantles. This has large square
meshes. with graceful curved designs