Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-01-29

young girl than an all white tule dress but it is
not cheap one 1t must be all silk tulle; 1T must
| be made over silk; it must be composed of layer
upon layer until the soft, coud-lfke Elusive effect
is produced, and 1t must be rightly worn by girl
habits as will not mar 1t by snowy or vulgar1zing
1 accessories.
Fine plain tulles, fine frosted and embroidered
tulles-the latter always I'm small dots or very deli
cate ngures-are, In midwinter, as at other times
carefully kept In boxes and folded in tissue paper
II any OF the limited quantities imported remains
| The reduced fabrics belong to a very different
| order They are Trailer, though coarser OF mesh
and nDer, Quickly spoiled by friction and contact.
SLOWLY Sprinkled with tinSeled figures or colored
pendants, or both.
great deal OF what is called decoration is exc
cuted upon light cheap materials for drapeTieS, In
a sbrt OF applique work, which is too pronounced
| ana looks TOO much like curtain trimming or the
81 H wa 9ket to 9e elegant and are eS
cause they are so quickly and easily spoiled
A SOLUTION OF PROBLEM
The ever recurring question OF the wrap is the
perpetual problem to many a woman in this
! changing climate. SO many different kinds are
| needed to meet the requirements of wind and
weather-not to speak OF fashion-and the cost,
ready made, being at least double that OF the
bo oS Of In Eq qnp These p prices
down later and they are often reduced more than
half The lots In which they are packed and piled,
represent, 1t Is true, good, bad and Indifferent;
and the inexperienced purchaser may be caught
out" In buying something undesirable from the
start. But the DISCRIMINATING who know what
they want and VIII patiently look for it. may be
and often are, rewarded by finding the kind OF
garment long desided, but unattainable, at price
that brings IL within the limits Of their means.
The garment most likely to lose its prestige, is
OF course, the one most likely to be the subject Of
fur lined or fur trimmed or TOO specialized
and decided In character, but which may exactly
suit the buyer and rejoice the soul OF the right
woman, II she fortunately finds 1t at price she
can pay forit.
A FoRETASTE OF SPRING.
While the money-saver is making her postponed
winter purchase In one part Of great furnishing
house, the money-spender is buying for early
spring In another department OF the same compre-
henSive and many-sided establishment. The SUI
pernciai shopper with ten dollars in her purse,
assured that She has secured the --latest" what
ever 1t may happen TO be. The woman with hum
dreds, buys year after year, in certain directions,
the same materials and styles manufactured by
the same well-knOwn houses. She watches; Ii she
is resident and habitual customer, she is notified
OF the earliest arrival and opening Of certain lines
goods and she hastens to obtain the first choice OF
cOiorS and patterns.
One house has been the agent, for perhaps a
quarter of a century, OF the finest make OF Scotch
ginghams. They are always the same price, forty
cents per yard, and certain kinds OF French cam
brics, twenty-five cents Both are bright yet deli
cate in coloring, quiet and refined in pattern, re-
peating year after year the same small dots and
figures, the same hair-line stripes and checks and
always finding the same vogue among the best and
most refined class of purchasers.
Within fifteen minutes one handsome, but
matronly lady, accompanied by her grown daugh-
ter a distinguished looking girl, selected twenty
yards OF each OF eight different but smallest and
quietest patterns in ginghams and cambrics.
They then went over to the India silk counter.
Here ere displayed great variety OF patterns
In pure india silks printed in lengths OF seven
woven in these iengths and is finished with the
fringed out and seivdge edge at both ends. But 1t
is spirited in London by David Grams and was for
merry sent here Tor the purpose OF being cut up
into handherchiefS, which were hemmed and sold
in Large numbers. But the quaint Oriental pat
terms and quiet artistic colorings attrated the at
al
several years steady demand has existed and
keeps increasing for these India silk lengths for
dress purposes Surah silk skirts The cost OF
seven yards ranges from ten 10 fourteen dollars. so
that by the thine the Surah silk Tor skirt is pro-
cured and the Whole dress made IL becomes rather
expensive. But IL Is always cool and clear, wears
without credSing and Is most Serv1ceable for Out
door use and excursions.
THE RRDINGoTB DRESS
Some new costumes seen at an art reception re-
Gently (the regular monthly OF the Union League
club represent the latest ideas In street and
rage costumes. The FIRST worn by a matron, was
OF gray cloth over gray plush in a darker shade,
the cloth redingote, slightly bouGant at the OPEN
toned down 20 point below the waist with old
silver buttons but was otherwise quite plain, and
| three silver buttons were placed ON the back of
each wrist. where they met the Quaker gray
gloves The bonnet was Of gray velvet, with
ornaments OF silver and gray feathers. daugh-
terra-cOtta cloth, with jacket and high pointed
hat, the whole trimmed with bands OF gray lambs
with two straight gray wings.
AT ball, upon the evening OF the same day, the
same young lady wore a lovely dress OF yellow
held by sheafs Oh silver wheat The back hung
straight and full, below surplce bodice, the
foundation OF which was silk matching the tulle.
SOCIETY DOINGs.
There has been no very large or important events
and no very costly dressing in New York this sea-
son. The publicity given to all social affairs Of
which the newspapers obtain cognizance and the
1mpoSsibity OF rectifying errors which sometimes
have very diSagreeable consequences, nave created
a dread ON the part OF many OF doing anything
which will attract attention. This does not seem
to extend to Che theatrical craze for the number
OF candidates Tor hStTiOnc honOrS in high social
circles Is constantly increasing.
Among the pretty toilets seen at recent private
theatrical entertainments was one of black mOire
and velvet, with front forming showers Oh let over
goid-colored satin, the bonnet with jetted crown
and group OF gold-cOOfed aJherS matching the
dress in every particular.
Another dress was Of gray cloth trimmed with
grayish white fox fur, and high hat covered with
white wings. The muff was OF the same light
fox fur and the gloves were gray so that the en-
| tire costume was gray and white. Rich MORE
is used for trains OF indoor dresses; and panels
vests, collars and cuffs OF street costumes It
really looks as though 1t would take the place OF
velvet in the mounting OF spring cloth costumes
yellow, with gray or mouse color, is combina-
ton which has been made with great success but
PingatS latest Is gray, with nasJurt1um pink as
lining the trimming rich cords and ornaments Of
silver gray silk, steel and black jet.
In the meantime, If any young girl wants to pre-
pare in advance for the coming spring let her
choose a simple design and make it up In white or
gray blue wool, with lines OF crow-foot en-
broidery or paneled front, with lacing OF silk cord
and straight back.
Large brinmed hats will probably reappear
next season, and cotton dresseS-whfte, pale pink
and electric blue-will be made with iull sleeves
falling over straight cuffs; full. beted in waists
and straight skirts with draped fronts No
nounces, no rdffieo, no lace trimming. Contrasts
OF materials seem to have quite taken the place.
at present, OF Lace and other OrnamentatiOn
always excepting embroidery.
THE PROPER FENCING DRESS
1t has become fashionable OF late to learn to
fence; and there are ladies who take private les
sons OF the same master OF the art who taught and
still continues to give lessons TO Mrs Langtry A
great deal Is said about the dress but little that is
correct and much that is absurd At the School OF
acting connected with the Lyceum theater fencing
Is taught scientifically as part OF the regular
course; and some OF the young ladies' are already
considered experts. The dress insisted upon con-
sstS OF blouse or jersey waist, loose trOuserS-prac-
tcally divided skirt, gathered into band below
the knee-lOng black hose spun silk or wool. and
low tennis or FENCING shoes without heels. The
underwear should be combination garment OF
flexible wool. corset belt-not corset which can
not be worn during this eXerciSe-a combination
cotton garment over the first and covering the
elastic belt, and then the upper dress; no skirts
Occasionally, for convenience, the skirts used in
dancing are worn; but they are not considered
the correct costume. Black hose are preferred to