The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1887-05-07

substantial iron bridge we began to climl
the watershed that separates Europe from
Asia. The river, the village, and the tai
towers sank into the depths of the canon
but behind us Kasbek, the omnipresent
seemed to rise in the heavens as we advanced
As we went from him he approached
The ascent soon brought us into the region
of avalanches, yet the road continued as
smooth as Swiss turnpike. Innumerablt
ox-carts from Asia filled the pass, boys moi
more than ten years old, with mothers
fathers, and children, walked beside the
patient bullocks. Strangely fashioned
y0kes, such as are found in no part Of
Europe, CALLED the necks of the poor beasts,
and often, to hold down the tongues of the
loaded carts, the boys sat on the yokes be-
tween the oxen, apparently unconscious Of
danger or of the yawning chasms beside
them. The scenery assumed an imposing
character. A glacier green and CLASSY filled
the world before us, and streamed from
the mountain-tops into the profound abyss
at our feet. The travellers were dumb,
the road disappeared, and nature assumed
its most terrible aspect; but presently we
entered a tunnel, and continued our jour-
ney directly under the glacier. Lamps
illumined the passage, and we began to
realize the despotic enterprise of Russia.
We soon passed above the line of vege-
tation, and at dusk reached the summit Of
the Grand Chain. Lighted candles, hot
tea, and warm fire made every heart
happy, and when the officer told us that
We would have fresh horses, and at mid
night begin the descent into Asia, we were
eager with expectation. At intervals the
mist was entirely blown away, and then the
great moon appeared, shedding splendor
over the wilderness of snow. We were
now approaching the land of the Georgians,
where the mountains faced the hot plains
Of Armenia, and the melting glaciers are
inexpressibly beautiful. There we've doubts
about the propriety of making the descent
during the night, but an official assured us
that the road was broad and well guarded
by heavy wall All was ready, the word
given, and before we were fairly seated,
bells jingled, and the horses were off at the
top of their speed.
Just after leaving the station on the sum-
init a succession of faint distant lights ap-
peared in the void beneath us. GWhat
are thcy-hunters fres?' we asked. "It's
the moon shining on the river Aragva,
fifteen versts below" said the officer; and
by straining our eyes ribbon of lace-like
film appeared and disappeared in the bottom
Of the black abyss 1t was the celebrated
river Aragon of ancient history, but its
roaring waters were too far away to be
heard. Our wild midnight ride was too
exciting for doing, yet it was not long be-
fore the strain on our nerves produced
reaction, and sleep soon followed. 1t con-
tinued for three hours, but it seemed only
a few minutes. There was brief little
dream of falling down strange mountains,
then sudden awakening by yells from the
driver The station Mleti had been reach
ed, and with wondering thoughts we
alighted under an arch of climbing jasmine
The air was perfumed with pleasing odors,
the architecture of the houses was pictures
que, and we were in strange country.
All the caravans had vanished. The quaint
Georgian village of Mleti lay in sweet
little valley at our right. Nature was
asleep, and even the dogs did not bark.
The cold mountain moon had given place
to a moon of Italy, whose soft mellow light
filled the valley with kind of delicious
enchantment; but the terror of the night
still fingered, for right over our heads a
frightful precipice arose into the sky, and
the summit seemed inaccessible. 1t en-
tirely shadowed the Georgian village
do you see that overhanging crag in the
clouds?" asked the engineer, pointing up
ward to far-away peak. eyes" "That
is the place we left at midnight" This
statement seemed incredible, but it was
true, for on our return trip in the autumn
we ascended this most marvellous of all
roads, and found that from its summit one
could toss an apple into the very streets of
Mleti. A finer example of a military road
up the face of mountain is yet to be found.
Still 1t is remarkable fact that the edu-
Gated engineers who blasted out the zigzag
channels for the road-bed up and down the
precipice saw all the grading done with or
binary wooden shovels of Asia, which are
only tipped with steel. Wooden shovels,
military schools, dynamite, and springless
post-wagons fairly illustrate the paradoxes
of Russian civilization.