The Lebanon express. (Lebanon, Linn County, Or.) 1887-1898, 1887-07-15

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When one gets peep at the sample
books of silks ut leading establish
ment the tempsationis is great TO describe
each and every style; but the limits OF
time and space are inexorable, and 50
choice must be made of only special
few
Faille Franchise continues to be the
favorite weave for silks; and deserved
ly, for it combines a softness and plia-
blity with richness of eff set, and,
from the special manner of weaving. Il
durability. that are not possessed by
any other style. This weave forms the
foundation for many of the novel and
beautiful effects in the new silks. mo-.
however, 10 the exclusion of satin. gros
grain. and a twilled weave similar to
surah or satin merveilleux.
The popular fancy for stripes and
plaids is prominent il al the novelties
in silks; and plush effects. in both frise
and coupe. abound, sometimes used
separately. sometimes together. A dis
tinctive sample of the latter class has
block plaids two inches square. al
ternately of cut and uncut plush.
separated by bayadere stripes of two
" three threads in faille weave, and
perpendicular stripes of the same width
but of a contrasting color of plush.
The combinations of colo< in this style
are varied; one is of beige and beau
tiful shade of dark blue, the separating
lines of old-gold The colors are dis
rosed in perpendicular stripes. so that
tAe color effect is of stripes. while the
plaid effect is impaired by the weaving
coupe and frise, which occurs al
terrately every two inches. but in the
same line all across the material This
would be used for panel, front
breadth. or even the entire skirt in COM
bination with either blue or beige silk
or fine camsls'-hair cashmere.
Another striking sample has. on
hel.otrope satin ground. two plush
stripes. each five inches wide, formed
# narrow stripes in old-gold. dark red.
bronze-green and Uieiiie rose, of diff r.
ent widths and repeated in different ro-
tation. and woven about three inches
from the selvedges.. Down the middle
of the width. the satin surface is
striped with single threads of chenille
in each of the colors in the plush
stripes. having the frise weave at inter-
walls; and there are bayadere stripes of
satin, repeating the colors of the che
mile. which form plaids- This could be
used in combinat on with heliourope.
or with any one of the colors in the
plush. the dark for handsome visiting
costumes, and the light for reception
and carriage use.
Another style has faille ground in
a dark shade of hsliotrope that dis
plays admirably a novel effect in beige
rolored cut plush. which is in crosswise
and leIgthwise stripes forming plaids.
the plush not solid, but woven diagon-
ally in chen;ile-like threads Sill an
other design is in three eolors and has
uncut plush of two lengths ON surah
ground; and yet another has stripes at
least three inches wide of golden
brown armure, alternating with stripes
of equal width formed of tiny checks of
beige-colored frise on a scarlet satin
ground. In fact the combinations and
variation of the different weaves. in
stripes and plaids of various sizes and
widths. is almost endless.
The new colors include heliotrope in
eight or ten shades; plum. which is
allied to hello rope but with a tinge of
red; bronze with green shadings; light
browns. and the whole range of wood
tints; beige and its kindred light t.nts;
and gray. from the palest French gray
to the dark blue-grav known as Rus
sian gray.
Moire Ffancaise in good qualities is
in demand in black and all fashionable
colors for street wear, TO be used in
with silk or fine wooden
fabrics. NJ 3ire Franchise, it viii be
has the watered effect in
stripes. rather than the all-over ar
familiar in moire antique.
but the ripples are qlits as large as in
the latter. A special novelty. in black.
has stripes of moire Franeaise ut least
seven Or eight inches wi alternating
with satin stripes of the same width;
there IS MORE stripe down the middle
Of the width. .-DemoreSt' $ Monthly.