The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-12-03

OF about each other without anv traceable
pattern. The worst are those blocked in
large, distinct figures which have no refer
ence TO the outlines of the form
FUR braiding may be, and of course is. ap-
phed to braided garments and costumes as
wen as plain ones, hut it does not look well
upon an ''all over" braided jacket, and is
also unnecessary as ornamentation where
praidlng is used. Fur as trimming, is spe-
clally useful to the economical, who can get
more OF stylish effect out of yard of black
OF gray fur put on as standing collar and
cuiIS or jacket than anything else at the
price, besides having somsthing that fills the
place at the throat of fur collar or boa, and
protects the wrists
A most comfortable and effective winter
Quilt consists of Jersey fitting cloth gar
ment, with line of fur round the throat and
crossing the front diagonally, cloth turban
ghe crown laid in folds and rather conical
IN 1orm--fur band for brim and muff made
OF the cloth and trimmed with fur, or of fur
TO match the trimming. Fifteen to twenty
collars will cover the entire cost if the MAX
ing IS done by the expert fingers of the wear
er land the materials will be better than gar
ments that are bought for double the
amount
Materials are now very cheap and good
II is the making that brings the cost up to
DAY, Is one of the most profitable of occupa-
tdons; or would be, if the cost of living in
large cities did not absorb the profits;
dressmakers who charge high prices usually
nndlng 1t necessary to pay high rents and
i've In fashionable neighborhoods.
The large sleeves are not employed for
street costumes of cloth or heavy material
They have been relegated to little girls and
misses, or the less formal house dress.
Ihere has been an attempt to revive the
straight, open sleeve, with coat sleeve I'M
derneath, of the sixteenth century: and also
the long, pointed and ''angel" sleeve But
IL begins to be understood that you cannot
take part of an old characteristic or his
torlc design and hitch il on to modern,
nineteenth century, three quarter body,
without an appearance of incongruity; and
that If you want to make picture you
must make IL harmonious in its details or
1t Will be valueless. We scott at conven-
lions and conventionaliSm, but what we
owe to them in preserving us from follies,
gaucheries of dress, speech and action can
not be measured. 1t is indeed wise man
or woman that can afford to go beyond the
lines.
SOME FRENCH GOWNS
Among the latest novelties for the evening
wear of debutantes is the rose leaf" dress
OF tulle, with petals of the rose quivering
from the edge of the drapery upon skirt
and bodice. The petals are as natural and
delicate as life. They are fastened together
in threeS and held by a single, fine, silk
thread to the tulle. They are in faintest
shades of pink, straw color or tinted white,
and have been received in limited quantities
by one Observation-Disclosures McNay q Nichols,
West Thirteenth street-for application to
corresponding shades of tulle. These lovely
tulle dresses are made of tulle upon tulle,
over finest muslin and this over white silk;
yet the materials are so light that the whole
form hardly appreciate weight and are in
deed dream Of daintiness in costume.
Flowers for the ornamentation of evening
tollettes reappear this season, but entirely
Invested of their ancient stiffness and for
mality. The garlands hang from the sides or
across the fronts of dresses in diagonal
line from the shoulder; are of grasses or
dropping flowers, pendent from ropes of
chenille, and so flexible as to be uncrushable
For white tulle there are lilies of the
valley; for brown or black tulle, daisies
with yellow hearts; for green tulle, peoples
and green (unripe) wheat.
Hops and orchids form a new and striking
combination for straw color and the starry
jasmine is lovely with heliotrope. Two
punches, one arranged as an aigrette for the
hair, accompany each set; but they must be
made in France to be at once natural and
artistic.
Other evening gowns are combinations of
tulle or Grape, not Canton but crinkled, and
''ribbon"-striped MORE; the fronts striped
alternately with pointed bands of the MORE.
alternating with narrow stripes of satin
ribbon which terminate in loops. The bands
descend just below the knee, the ribbon
nearly the length of the skirt. They are
not placed close together, but so that the
tulle or Grape is visible between them. The
back part of the skirt is of the MORE, and
oa1e< to- HI 0ls 81,
tulle or Grape, and has, perhaps, sleeves
nearly to the elbow of tulle, with elongated
tongues of MORE.
An evening dress sent by Worth was
most delicate and peculiar shade of green
satin, with ivory satin front, covered with
rows of Venetian point with fine gold edge
The front of the dress was rounded, and
the lace covered and draped in an indescrib-
ably graceful fashion. The bodice was
Venetian in style and highly distinguished,
beautiful and characteristic
Another dress more striking, but not so
elegant, was of red MORE and red crinkled
Grape arranged at the side to form the en-
larged and sensitive petals of flower. The
train of the MORE. The pattern in cres-
cents and half circles. and its edge rounded
up in the centre with underplaitings and
quilting of silk and Grape The dress was
garlanded with green Scotch thistles and
appropriately called MADAME du Dioble."
JEWELS FOR CHRISTMAS GIFTS.
There is no lack of pretty things this sea-
son for those who have money to buy them.
The latest novelties in the way of jewelry
are made in diamonds or enamels, the dia-
monds set so that the setting is not visible.
A magnificent ornament forms a garland
of flowers for the front of bodice, the
centre of every one, radiant sun in the |
shape of blazing solitaire. This is a chance |
for a Observation-Disclosures. The old tiara |
and other fixed and formal designs are out |
of date. The ornaments are crescents, !
flowers, butterflies, flies upon rose leaves in |
forms which can often be detached or worn |
together.
The ornaments for the hair are almost |
uniformly mounted as pins or combs. A |
pretty thing in enamel in the ''fiance" |
bracelet. The design is a daisy from which |
one petal has been picked and is hanging by |
a slender chain with the legend Il love your |
upon it. A lace pin shows a row of five |
diminitive, but prim little pansies yellow |
with elongated purple maiden aunt in the |
centre.
A RECENT EXHIBIT.
An interesting event of the later autumn
has been the exhibition of American en-
broideries, tapestries and fabrics by the
" Associated Artists - of which Mrs Candace