The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-08-11

1 Wellington, divides with Nelson the h0n0r1
| OF the people Of that metropolis. Effigies to
Wellington are frequent and grand, and it did
not seem much of a transformation to go from
London to Warer1oo-they were but two scenes
in the drama of one life. Casting last glance mp
| on the Lion, which can be seen for long dis
tanceit was but few minutes until we were bach
| in Brussels, where on that fateful night the
beauty and chivalry had gathered" and whers
| lights shone over fair women and brave men,
mat is, poetry says so; but 1 desire to state
tnaS IL there were any fair women at the ball in
1919, they are all dead and have left no descend.
ants. ihe women l have seen thus far the
continent-women of all nationalities too-ars
perfectly appalling. The natives are simply dis
astrous. while the visitors-wel pretty women
can't bear the exposure Of travel, aud stay al
home
Inere was nothing more to see in Brussels;
but the memory of the place is pleasant The
hotel was SO restful. the attendance so perfect.
and the city so attractive. I should have re.
manned another day. but that was escaping
from the sum OF all villainies, a .spersoua
conducted" party; in fact, two of them Thew
overlook US at Harwich; were on my heels at
Antwerp, where I fanked them; but another
day. and "the whole boundless continent would
be theirs The personally conducted party il
good thing possibly-for those who are mem.
bers of it. The locusrs Of Egypt never com.
planned, believe. and the Kansas grasshoppera
lived off the fat of the land. But the people! A
personally conducted man or woman feels no
moral responsibility The conductor is saddled
with all that; and so the individual members,
and the collective members, too, for
that matter, ''prey without ceasng,. (printer
please, for the sake of old friendship, spell that
with ''E.") So, obeying the law of self pres.
tween Brussels and Cologne is of no special in
terest; indeed, hot day is dusty and tire
some, at least so far Aix-la-Chapele. From,
that the scenery is better, and the incident of
passing out of French into German territory is
of interest. The French were very polite. self
depreciatory. rather. The Germs ms were neither;
they were sharp, arrogant and business all over.
After seeing more of them, and seeing them
away from the frontier, am inclined to modify
this judgment somewhat; although, take them
by and large. an American would prefer the almost
imperious sturdiness of the German to something
very different in the Frenchman. 1 suppose the
contact with French imaginary line ia
not conducive to the highest degree of serenity in
the mind Of the German in national service and
clad in national uniform. AT Cologne, of course
the proper thing to have done would have been
to smell 'sthe two-and-seventy distinct and sep
arate stinks" which caused Coleridge twas it'll to
1.-The river Rhine is well known,
Doth wash the city of Cologne
Tell me- ye nymphs what nower devine
Shall henceforth wash the river Rhinei-
But l did not smell any of them; on the con-
trary. found Cologne a reasonably clean and
quite healthful city, especially in the new part,
which is being built up rapidly with the cost
lest character of business houses and residences
The Rhine is not a pretty river here, by any
means. It's waters thick and muddy. and
the craft that ply upon them far from attractive
Still it the Rhine, and / fed my eyes and
imagination upon it l sat on the salle-a-
manger and ate dinner, overlooking the busy
quay. In the early evening paid second
visit to the Cathedral You surprised on
alightine from the train to find shat the station
is near the great Cathedral; that turn and
one minute brings you face to face with its two
msjesti towers It bursts upon you all of a
sudden; and then the feeling of regret
that magnificent structure should be so
wretchedly misplaced. The Cathedral was
planned in tho twelfth century, and its corner
stone laid IN 1246. 1t is finished in exact con-
formity with the original plans. there is no
excuse for not putting it upon worthy SITE
Good old ST Englebert. presume, thought the
new Cathedral should go just where the old one
was, and hence this noblest of all archi-
tecturai piles is built in fat, low plaza,
surrounded with meanness of all kinds.
Not even its majestic proportion relieve the
locality. In smaller way the feeling is the
same toward the amiable old gentlemen who
put the new State house in a slough. simply be-
cause the old one there. The Cologne Ca
thedral and our State Capitol are witness to the
fact that saintliness and age not necessarily
infallible The Acropolis in Athens was not
dad in TbA infor 4.
thedral does not suffer because of the poor stu
alton. It's grandeur is undiminished. From
floor to vaulted roof of the main aisle is $50
feet, and the imagination is beggared to think OF
an interior more noble and i'm pressive Indeed
after going to it half dozen times. and stand
ing at the best angles from which to view it's
front, sometimes lost all sense of surround
ngs, and saw simply the Cathedral. 1t is the
only thing in Cologne, and it is enough. 1t is
the first thing to be approaching the
city. and it is the last, you steam up
the Rhine. its glorious towers being lost
around curve in the river, after they have re-
NAMED the chief thing in the landscape for many,
many miles. guide and sacrstan took me
through the Cathedral. There tombs and
.ombs of all the archbishops and great men of
The diocese; there is tomb Of which dates
back to the eleventh century-a piece of quaint
Roman sculpture Nearly all of them were mu-
ilated during the French revolution, the deli
ate tracery in marble about one being carried
,ff bodily save one small piece left to tell how
ich and lovely ii all must have been. The bones
If St. Engelbert, who founded the Cathedral,
lie in a magnificent silver and gold casket, tie
landwork of sixteenth-century artist. 1t is
rich, and is only one of many
treasures belonging to the Cathedral. A still
anger and finer mausoleum is said to inclose
he bones of the thr ee Magi, which were gwen
o Cologne by one of the Popes from the Milan
cathedral The faith strong enough to believe
his will take in the upper part OF the
taft of ST Peter, also shown by
he sacristan with perfectly sober