Los Angeles daily herald., 1887-09-11
FASHION NOTES.
What the Ladies Wear and How
to Arrange 1t.


crowns, not indented at the ends, an,
many have long, pointed poke fronts
filled in with a slight face trimming
The coronet fronts of beads, of feath
sers and Of velvet are also largely i'm
ported. Trimmed bonnets of velve
from many of the best French MILL
merry houses retain the small, clos,
shapes so long in vogue here, addin,
a trif1e more breadth, and making the
trimming slightly lower.
Black and white French lace scarf.
are revived for the strings and trim
mings of velvet bonnets. The Ion,
scarf, six or seven inches wide, is no
cut, but is attached to the back of the
crown by an ornament, is brought for
ward on the sides, and then tied un
der the chin. Many of the new bon
nets, especially those with Directoire
poke fronts, are short and round al
the ears, and these have the strings
attached in the back only. The rib
bons and feathers used for garniture
have already been noted. Fancy
feathers are on almost every bonnet
or round hat, and ostrich tips are
largely imported in clusters that are
embre, or changeable, or else speckled
with a d lrker shade or contrasting
color
Beads will again be largely used in
fine jets and in all colors, for galloons
and passementeries that are placed
flat on the bonnet along the brim and
crown in rows, or else in the space be-
tween. The galloons are in open de-
signs, and are often partly of spangled
and of tinsel cords combined with the
beads. A great many gilt cord gal
looms are shown, but those made ur
of several "olors of tinsel are richer
The newest ornaments are long, slen.
der pins that are used in great numbers
for apparently pinning the bonnet and
its trimmings together. Rhine-stones
and acquamarines fire in the heads OF
large and small pins, and in rings,
bow-knots, and crescents; the prefer
ence, however, is for long gilt and sill
yer pins, or for small ones with metal
heads. Jet ornaments take the form
of quills, wings, birds heads, buckles,
'crescents, daggers, etc.
Long Raglans and Newmarket
'cloaks for travelling and for general
wear throughout the autumn are inn
ported, of Scotch tweeds in stripes and
bars of rough threads on twilled or
basket-woven surfaces. The colors
are less sombre than those formerly
used, having Illuminated threads in
thn rnJ1C' Strinoo vNlotIe nrI
grounds o. ,belin blue, golden brown,
dull red, gra, or navy blue. The gar
ment covers the wearer from throat
to foot, is fitted in a long. slender
waist, with coat sleeves, very full
skirt, and deep capes that cover the
front and sides, but not the middle
forms of the back. These middle
forms are often cut with bias or dag
onal stripes, meeting in the seim in V
shape. and are fitted in deep point
on the tournure, to which is gathered
a great full breadth of the skirt. The
cape is of most graceful shape, reach
ing to the waist line, and is often
Tapped and stitched along the edges
to simulate two or three capes. Some
times the cape is turned under in
front to make square sleeves; point
ed hood lined with glace silk is on
other cloaks; a passementerie orna-
ment forms epaulettes, and other or
naments are added to the collar and
cuffs. All the cloaks have high col
lars, which are sometimes made of
plush or velvet.
Opening of millinery at the whole
fhn ,1s,
already noted made up into bonnets
and round hats for the early autumn
and for winter. Soft felt bonnets of
the pliable felt made up in folds and
pleats on a frame precisely as cloth
would be used are shown for general
wear; there are also stiff felt bonnets
with rows of pinking all over them, or
else merely pinked edges for those
who preferred them. The square of
felt which forms the soft folded crown
sometimes furnishes the twist or cor
rugated folds that edge the front of the
brim, also some printed ends that are
tied in a bow on the top, or else made
to stand erect. The embroidered felts
showing small flowers done in the
shade of the felt, or else with beaded
wheat or leaf pattern in borders are
considered m st dressy. A twist in
front and pointed pink ends of rich
repped faille are sufficient trimming
for full-crowned felt bonnets, though
a tuft of quilts or of curved cocks
plumes may be added.
Velvet is the fabric for dress hats,
and it shown in great variety. The
novelty is changeable repped velvet,
showing gold with blue, red with
green, brown with blue, and black
with red or orange. There are also
plain velvets that are changeable, and
others that are both watered and
changeable. The embroidered vel
vets for trimmings are in bands with
pointed edges, to be used like ribbons
or in small allover designs with seal
loped edges that form the soft-crowned
poke or turban, and also the most OF
it's trimming. This embroidery is
done with tinsel threads of many col
ors, with colored beads. with jet,
steel, silver, or gilt beads, and the
pretty glass beads that have gold lin
ings. The palest Nile green, old rose,
sky blue and cream white velvets are
wrought in faded tapestry colors with
silks, tinsel or beads. There are also
faceted nail-heads of jet set about
most effectively on cactus red, gray,
orange, moss green, and Gobelin vel
vets for making the whole bonnet.
Cloths are also embroidered in all
these tinsel and beaded patterns, and
the loveliest South Kensington work
l. Id al IL
roseda. gray and rose wools. Squares
of plain velvet in handkerchief shape
are edged all around with fine jet in
lace-like patterns.
A useful model is small bonnet Of
black velvet, smooth on the frame,
With three rows of narrow jet gimp in
oval designs laid along the front and
edging the crown. A wide Chantilly
lace scarf is fastened by Il jet ornament
at the edge OF the crown, folded along