The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1887-04-28

the buyers do not come.
The manner of making costume orig
mates very often in this country and Is
carried over to the other side. The
enormous pattern business employs a
great number of expert dressmakers-de-
signers, both men and women, and models
of all sizes and ages. The designer
watches eagerly for even the least bit of
a new idea in bodices, drapery or skirts
she sees where an improvement can be
made or a more individual effect pro-
duced. This is wrought out then either
in paper or muslin, and the dressmakers
develop it in cotton cloth with the same
precision as if they were making gown
to be worn. 1t is fitted on the model;
then, by women who understand the work,
1t is cut apart, marked and notched for
seams, darts and hens; sent, with its de-
scription, to the factory and is next seen
in the form of the paper pattern, folded
compactly and graded to suit the differ
ent-sized women. Letters come in ask
ing for special styles-if 1t is believed that
they are good, care is taken to bring them
out, but wild, unregenerated suggestions
are seldom given anything more than
merry laugh over the folly that suggested
them. These designs all go to Europe,
epcCidiiy w EASiouu, WucI0 q piAAiAoi
work is carried on, but 1t is curious fact
that even in London the American styles
are most popular. They are less apt to
give the English girl the air she longs Cor
when she says: "You Americans alt wear
your clothes so we'll"
Not only in designs for making ma
terials do we vie with our cousins on the
other side, but in fabrics we are trying to
do our best to equal them. The greatest
success has been in silks, but it must be
acknowledged that the English in cloths
and the French in silks, brocades, velvet,
plushes and soft woods far surpass us.
The question of how he knew what to
buy was asked the foreign representative
of the largest and finest establishment in
New York. He said: II am governed
by what has been, and that is the law of
the manufacturer. If for several seasons
fancy suitings have been worn-as is the
case Just now-I know there will be q
reaction; so gradually I buy fewer and
fewer of the fancy stuffs and more of
the plain colors. This season will see
many bizarre designs, but the really
fashionable woman chooses q costume
that consists OF one shade all through,
though she will indulge in the luxury of
rich-colored, elegant silk or brocade' lin
Then to the next, which was "Who
starts the fashion," he said: Nobody
knows. 1t may he an actress at the Com
edie Franchise; 1t may be leader of the
demi-monde, or 1t may be grande dame.
However, there is no iron law-La Mode
is abreast with the times and realizes that
women are insensibly more liberal in
their ideas and each wishes to look her
best quite irrespective of set rule.
Sometimes Q national happiness or sor-
row makes q color, or decoration the
vogue; undoubtedly the use of gold en-
broidery and cord can be traced to the
unfortunate Prince of Bulgaria and the
hero that he is in the eyes of women.
But after all no one absolutely makes the
fashions and no one is powerful enough
to say this shall or shall not be worn.
Probably more than any other women
Sarah Bernhardt and Mrs. Langtry have
made the world adopt what they wore
the one by her absolute fascination, the
other by the force of her exquisite beauty.
At her first visit to this country Bernhardt
wore long, loose wrap enveloping her
figure and poke bonnet tied under her
chin. In less than week half the women
In New York were gotten up in the same
way. She made the mousquetaire glove
which suited her slender wrist, and she
also taught women to wear flowers high
up against the throat, bringing out in this
way the whiteness and shapeliness of the
ear. Now, since she has become Fedora
the loose front is most chic for tea.
gown or matinee, and from the night that
she fascinated and made living the beau.
tiful Theodore girdles of silver and
strings of gold beads have gained Q cschet
In dressing Madame Bernhardt never
makes mistakes and never is common
plac'.
Mrs. Langtry is to be complimented
upon her good dressing, which is de-
cidedly of the drawing-room, though
what she will be In Cleopatra" whicl
she plays next autumn, can only b
gussed. The silver-like gray plushes, tn
soft framboise, the deep heliotropes ant
the wh!test Of white toilets are approves
by the English beauty. She has the goo'
combined with plush or silk, but oftene
then be Of plush, trimmed with msgnif
cent fur and . lining that, contrasting i
color, makes Of her entire toilet an artia
| tic study. Nrs. Langtry understands th
at Of dressing, and makes her toilet
subservient to her beauty, though In hal
mony with It. on the stare, in the hous
or on the street, abe d always well, hand
somely and suitably gowned. The 81
yaugement Of her beau2iful hair In kuo
low ON the neck, was very SgeneraiI,
adopted by I'll ths world 3 few year, ego
Just now she weaea ~ gol4eg-bsoyl
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