Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1887-10-28
HINTS FOR COFFEE DRINKERS.
A Leading Dealer Gives His Opinion.
Where the Best Coffee is Raised.

A Leading Dealer Gives His Opinion.
Where the Best Coffee is Raised.
otis curious fact" said one of the
veterans of the coffee trade, ''that prices
of all coffees sold in this country are based
upon the prices given for coffee which
is never even mentioned by retail houses.
That is Brazilian. All the coffee grown
in that empire is called Rio or Santos,
after Rio Janeiro and neighboring port.
With other coffees we make speciality Of
stating where each is grown, but not with
Rios. These coffees are graded by num-
bers from to 10 according to their exc
cellence, and the prices of other coffees
are regulated by what these fetch. The
other cotfees may be roughly classified as
Javas and Central Americas, and the con-
sumption of each in this country may be
set down as Rios Javas 1 1-2, Central
Americas 1 in relative proportion
GLOW is it, asked the reporter, ''that
Rio is never named by retailers?'
There is prejudice against it, and
millions of people are drinking it in ig-
norance who have in their imaginations
forsworn it. How can it be otherwise
when they insist upon cheap coffee? Most
of it is sold, perhaps nearly all of it is
sold, by roasters under firm brand.
The northwestern states, Wisconsin, Min
nesota and far off Colorado, are peculiar.
They will not touch poor or medium Rios,
and there is no trade there save in high
priced Central Americas and Javas and
the very best specialties Of Rios"
"What do you mean by Government
Javas?"
"Why, the Dutch government holds
four public auction sales of coffee at Ba-
tavia, in the island of Java, during each
year, and the coffee is sold in piculs or
bags weighing 1876 pounds. AT these
sales the coffee is classified according to
the locality where it is raised, and we
wholesalers buy it as interior or Ankola,
or Aver Bangles, or Mandeling, and on
each of these occasions from 10000 to
$4,000 piculs are disposed of. This sys-
tenn makes the Dutch government re-
sponsible for the quality of the coffee,
and the title Government Java is there
fore good and significant one. Java
coffee improves on the voyage. can
show you samples Of some which were
shipped as green as SO many aquamarlne
QUILTED. anu W liCll We ItCclNttl tucIll lIl6
berries were of golden color and had
rlpened beautifully. That enhanced the
value three cents pound.
'How do you get your Java here? Do
you own the ships that bring it to this
port?"
"No; and isn't it a dreadful COM
mentary upon our system that though
the consumption is SO large of Java it all
comes to us in Dutch, Swedish, Nor
wegian or English sailing vessels? There
is not single American vessel engaged
in transporting Java coffee to this coun-
try. Ceylon coffee we don't use, for the
bad kind is not worth having and the
good kind is monopolized by the Eng
lish, and very costly it is. What Mocha
we use comes to us through English
sources. Our flag is hardly known in
eastern waters today. l may tell you
that we who are in the business have not
very high opinion of Mocha. Some
people are crazy about it, but we think
that matter of pure sentiment, and
believe that Mocha obtained its reputa-
ton by being the first coffee brought to
Europe. 1t has all the appearance of
being wild berry, and our experts say
that it cannot be distinguished from the
wild coffee of Hayti. This, no doubt, is
awful heresy, but that's the way coffee
men look at it. In the northwestern
states now, where there seems to be a
singular appreciation of really good
coffee, there is no demand for Mocha"
(Which do you prefer?'
Gas general thing like the flavor of
Java, which is very pleasing and full OF
aroma and is soft and smooth to the pal
ate, leaving no al Ter taste in the mouth.
Rios are strong and coarse and bitter, and
leave a somewhat muddy after taste,
which no doubt comes from the Brazilian
coffee plantations being on low lands.
Costa RIGA is fine in flavor and excellent
in aroma. but it leaves an aeid flavor in
the mouth. The Guatemala cotfees are
very superior and are making their way
among connoisseurs. They are about on
a par with the Laguayra coffee from the
neighborhood of Caracas. There is 9
grade of Laguavra which comes from the
neighborhood of Puerto Cabello and is by
no means SO fine. The great expectation
of Venezuelan coffee, however, is from
the Maracaibo region and this is full OF
/ Dul anu IL
leaves somewhat of a disagreeable after
taste, at least some does, that probably
which is raised upon low lands. You may
lay this down as a law, that the higher
the elevation at which coffee is grown
the finer it is in every way"
(Which is the coffee that is grown a
the highest elevationE'
Il should not wonder if the highest
coffee plantations We're found to be on tn,
slopes of the Hinlalayas in India, but tina
very fine grade of English coffee does no
come 10 us. We have, however, som,
grown in the neighborhood of Bogota il
Ecuador at an elevation of 5000 fee
above the level of the sea, and it is ex
quisite To look at, exquisite to smell an(
exquisite to drink. The berries are
bright green, transparent and waxy, an'
of remarkable uniformity of size. Som
of this coffee goes down a river near Bo
gotta and comes To Panama by sea, bu
some of it is packed on the backs of bur
ros or small hardy donkeys, not mules
and is carried over the mountains by Ian,