The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-10-02
REV. MR.. FLETCHER'S LETTER
A File of Indianapolis Journals at the
Seaside PuteOli of st. Paul.
An Introd uctory Personal-How the King of
Italy Spends His Time-Humbert. the
Hardest Worked Man in Europe.

PozzuoLI 1.-THE ancient Puteolil. Italy, August,
18e7.-Here, by the lapsing waves OF the Med
iterranean, and within Eve hundred yards from
the spot where the Apostle Paul landed whom
he came to Italy-Acts xviii 13 14); within five
miles of Cape Museum, where the Plinys saw the
first eruption Of Mt. Vesuvius. 70, A. D.; within
three miles of the. islapo of Nisid. celebrated
as the country home of Lucullus. and afterwards
the last meeting place OF Cicero. Brutus and
Portia; within four miles OF Baia. once the
great watering place of the ancient Roman en-
perors, consuls and patricians generally; and.
finally, within ten miles of the island of 1schia
on my right, and within eighteen miles OF Capri
in front-on both of which islands Tibsrius
lived during our Saviors life time, and the
latter when He was crucifed by Pontius PLATE.
in Judea-here. say, within sight Of all these
scenes classic and sacred, I have been porting
over batch Of the Indianapolis Journals. They
have proved a profitable reading. ] have been
much interested in Mr.. Halford's letters from
Nottingham. Newstead Abbey. and. in his last
from the city of Cologne. Ii seems but few
years ego that was introduced to a little short
feliow-near the present site of Bambesger's hat
store-and was informed that he was just begin
ming his work as a reporter He looked as If he
had the stuff in him. and he had IL. l
always liked Halford personally, and his writings
which always to the point; but his letter from
Cologne makes me especially respect him for two
things: First, because he dares to tell the truth
about the personally conducted" tours with
which he did not go) so far as most Americans los
ing their individuality; and, second, because he
has spoken a good aud true word abou tthe city OF
Cologne. My first visit to Cologne was in 1885,
and except at the riverside. where old wharves
and sewers made things lively, never was in
a cleaner or sweeter city. again was in Cologne
in 1863, and afterwards in 1875. and even the
smells that formerly congregated near by the
banks of old father Rhine, had disappeared;
new wharves, new bridges and perfected sewer-
age left nothing to be desired there, while in the
city itself was scrupulous neatnesst
But no one who has ever been to Cologne will
dispute his assertions in regard to the want Of
impressiveness In the external surroundings of
the majestic cathedral and the deep impressive
mes andths architectural perfection oftheinteror.
He breaches just rightly and just enough in the
few lines at the end of his Cologne letter. where
he refers to the gullblity of people swallowing
down the legends Of the wise men OF the East"
etc. However. as ne referred to mostly ancient
things in the beginning of his letter. land he
scared me at frst by speaking of his present
enfesbled condition") why didn't he, while IN Co
| logne, 60 and see the bones of the eleven thou
| sand virgins in the Church of St. Ursula2 There
| he would have found something more musty
| and harder to gulp down than the Magi in
| the great cathedral II he is 81 the vein" of
| antiquity wish he would come down and see
| me- Putsoli and Naples are three hundred years
| older than Rome's tabled existence, and hard
| by is Cuma, settled by the Greeks when Samuel
| was little boy with Eli; and if all this is not
| old enough can take him to Lake Avernus and
| the rest OF the Internal regions of Homer and
| Virgil, which have very respectable age; or to
| Capri which island Is tho Jumping
off place of the Apennines. cropping
out of the sea, and geologically
speaking is one of the oldest things in the world.
In the month of May last wrote for journal
work a day life of King Humhert. of Italy, and
| felt fattered to see it copied throughout the
| United States. and amongst them, in the In.
! dianapols journal / showed in the letter re-
| ferred to, that about the hardest-worked man
| in this kingdom lwnere people are truly indus
trious except the begears and hanesrs-on in cit
| ies) was Humbert /. King of United Italy.
readers would be glad to know
something of the vacation life of this monarch
when he is supposed to give up the cares OF
| state. When the month of July comes, the
King and Queen usually 60 to Monza, = beauti-
arsl and Of
royal couple take great interest in the farming
| operations. and in the stables. whore there arc
| best animals for work. From Mona the Queen
| goes, for a week or two, to Venice to sea-baths.
| Her husband. in the meantime, il to be TO und
| at Verona, undergoing the severest labor under
a swslterine sun, attending, as the commander
| in-chef of the army. to the grand maneuvsrs OF
army corps; aud when this is finished he il
| off to another such week of hardest labor in
| some other part OF northern Italy. These
maneuvers are holiday affairs; they are care
fully studied out in the War Department-the
movements are over many miles of country
every branch of the force is formed in army
corps; and infantry. cavalry and artillery go
through their parts as they wouio on the real
an enemy opposing, is the work more exacting
and fatlgnine; 1t is really sham battling on
till dine" and often until sundown. King
Humbert is in his saddle following the maneu-
vers with the same assiduity as the humblest
soldier. He is no parade-day warrior. FOR in the
campaign of 1866, at the battle OF Custosa. he
not only displayed courage, but military ability,
in fighting the Austrians. He sits well on his
horse, and Is good Judge or all That pertains 10
the equine race.
When the truly hard work of the military
| maneuvers over he HES him to the Alps Of
| Italy for his real vacation. l ought to have
said before that there naval maueuvers
| which. too, holiday affairs, and which
the King attends, accompanied by his brother.
in-law. the Duke Tommaso. who. under the
King, is the highest officer in the Italian navy
| that navy composed of the finest and
swiftest ironclads in the world.
| It may be- asked why much attention is
| given to such military training, which 10 sc
expensive, and which, in my Quaker
like notions. uselessly consuming things.
What Is more crippling to nation than large
standing army and big festsl Well, the reasons
given have good deal Of truth in them. Italy
has always suffered her severest trials from
Austria, France and Spain. From the last she
longer needs TO fear. and she is in friendly
alliance with Austria. But Just as sure az Q
European war breaks out. Italy, the closest
ally of Germany and England, will be invaded
by France. and IF Russia is the ally OF France
and can reach Italy, possibly by Russia. France
for the last forty years IN her attitude to Italy
has been mo selfish, unbearable and unreason
able. In lS49 the Republic of Rome was stifed
by French Republicans, and hence France in
Cured the hate of the overthrow Mazzini
Garibaldi and other advanced Italian Republi
cans and Liberals Mazzini and his companionl
fed to Switzerland and England, and Carl
baldi and his immediate followers sought re
fupa In Nav York Years passed and the