Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1887-05-07
NOfAo o. faR FAsnRORA
lAAles msss Read Thsm % fhsy would Dress IN
the Lassss ssyieA

1A1lee 0o0e Read Them thoy " ou1d Dress IN |
the lassss styles.
From the Philadelphia Ledger.
Bias waists are made over carefully fitted
straight cut llninRs that have the regulation
darts " aud side seamA 1t is the perfect
fit OF the lining that enables the bias goods
70 lie smoothly on the outside, without .
seam. over . very stout figure the plain
wAistcoat, guimpe or chemisette gives . re- /
lief 10 the size Of the waist A VERGE"
waist for young girls has the front laid from |
the shoulder in bias folds that cross each |
other and are fastened under the belt These |
are sometimes finished with "three.
decker I" collar, or Csrrick cape In three |
graduaed sizee. at the back merely.
CHILpRES's WEAR.
When there are plaits or gathers on the
dress they are fastened down under ribbon
bows. There are few or no children's waists
buttoning all the way down the front They
are usually In jacket style, unless the Rus.
sian suit Is adopted. For young children
white emhSoidery Is much favored, psrticu.
larly for skirts y hich are worn over colored
underdresses pretty model tor suit is Of
very fine beige chuddah or foulard. over
the gathered underdress is an overskirt
plated up on either side, under small otto
man ribbon bows In old red. The skirt falls
straight in the back. The jacket sits well
into the hgure, and opens over a shirred
plsstron. This shrred part only extends to
the middle OF the breast, and below Is an EN-.
sleeves 10 also shirred, and has cuffs Of red
sicilienne. Among the gathers is red EN-.
broidery. The overdress is shirred and en-
broidered below the waist The hat for wear
with this suit Is OF fancy beige straw, trimmed
with ribbon in old red and lined with beige
satin.
The sailor styles are repeated in many gar.
mene for both boys and girls Girls sailor
jackets for general wear are OF navy blue
cloth, cut double-breasted, and with gilt
silver, blue or white buttons. Sometimes the
square navy collar Is made entirely OF wide
blue or OF white Hurcules braid, and the but
tons must then correspond. The genuine
pea jacket OF blue cloth is worn by small
boys with their kilt skirts, or with trousers.
Red sailor collars OF Turkey cotton, braided
with white, are worn with sailor blouses in
the house, and are turned over outside jackets
for the street
The newest guimpes for low summer
dresses are entirely OF embroidery, with a
little frill at the neck, and q deep cuff like
that OF the mutton leg sleeves. The pointed
or round corssge OF dresses as embroidery
Get In point down the front, with a gathered
muslin tucker " at the top, and lapels Of
the embroidery over the shoulders. Putfed
sleeves for such waists are oias, with a band
OF insertion.
CAMEL's HAIR JACKETS,
The material known as vigose makes the
precise weight of WOODEN suitable to throw
over aspiring or summer dress, or wherever
there is prospect OF il :" blowing up cool "
In the late afternoon. These Jackets are
worn by girls OF any ase, and are of green,
gray blue, tan or navy blue They have vel
vet collar and cuffs, and are cut oil quite short
ct the back. Long coats, made of barred or
striped woolens, double breasted or with
vest fronts nave the backs cut of below the
waist line, and the iullness pleated there un.
av ham 1a nY Oty GS n mai
Sailor hats, with very wide brims, to be
worn far back on the head are the most pop
ulsr styles for children and girls These are
Of blue, brown, red or white straw, and, In
any color, are trimmed with navy blue rib
bon that has white corded edges and fiue
white stripes. The very large brims and
high crowns that have been in favor are not
desirable for little children, as they have q
| tendency TO make the wearers round shoul-
| dered, being overweighted on the head, and
| in the effort to keep the wide brim of from
| the neck the child stoops forward, or sits
leaning more to one side than the other.
BoNSETs AND HATS.
The new round hats have medium high
tapering crowns like q Russian soldier.
KEPT, with brim turned up exceedingly higt
and flat on one side, and lower, but equally
fiat, on the other The front OF the hs
| shades the eyes, but the sides and back ar
close to the head and short. The colors ar
ecru, heiotrope, japanese red, brown, dsri
| green, gray and tan, while some OF the fancy
braids IN bonnets with porcupine points Ar
shell pink. Some Of the hats have crowns o
fancy straw, braided in odd waves, shel
| patterns, and porcupine points, or in oper
| canvas designs, while the brim Is of plair
| braid, to be faced with velvet A turban hat
| made OF fancy black braid, has the brin
faced with black velvet Long loops of wild,
black gros-grain ribbon, edged with q whit,
| silk cordinK, are arranged at the front in
cluster snd then laid over upon the high
crown, as il the wind had blown them back
| In the heart OF the ribbon.cluster is set an i'm
mense oblong buckle OF cut jet
DRAPERIE> AND TRIMMINGS
are worn both long and ample, short and
boutiant Pipings, set row upon row, on
| panels, kits and 9th portions OF the dress
are also revived, and some new walking
| dresses, in gray serge, dark blue vigogne and
wide hem at the foot with q narrow vine
embroidery above, this being killed the en-.
| tire width.
Feather. stitching and the fine honeycomb
work called smoking are extensively used
on children's dresses. Smoking Is merely
made by gathering, "gauging" plain por-
ton OF the goods very evenly and then seps-
rating the gathered lines into patterns, caught
down by satin stitching or slip stitching.
This Is equally popular in the afternoon
dresses known as tsa-go~ns, In cashmere
and chaliies a tor children's suits of plain
chambray ginghams and corded Ringhams.
| Inc new very deep p6ao0U lflnKes, some
OF which are quite q yard in length, are
drsped across the entire fronts OF handsome
gowns, or are arranged as panels at each
side. They are also used to decorate the
fronts OF the graceful pisites made in peplum
style, the tringes reaching from the shoulder
to the extreme edge OF the long points.
Facings and bias bands Of silk in olive
green, pinkish msuve and ivory are used
upon the delicate figured challies or the
plain cAshmeres. Nuns yelling now comes
IN many delicate and beautiful shades for
summer wear, and all the old fashioned
plain bare ges (such as have never gone out
as travelling veils) and striped balzArines,
| In cotton aud wooden mixures. or all cotton,
ill the counters with cheap and pretty
| goodh
A quantity of colored laces In excellent
styles are sold at 9 aud s cents q yard. These
combine beautifully with the heliotrope
| satines and foulaTds, and with the ecru
| and red batistes, aud on linen goods that
are such successful reproductions OF the
| more expensive materials. As these silk
| laces do not soil easily they are usually
! ripped and removed when the dress goes 70
| the scOurera For many reasons 1t il more
| economical to have last years satines and
| foulards scoured than to have them washed
They retain their gloss and their color,
which In not warranted to be the case when
| the lsundress undertakes the work.
Aun~arNnaan Sosnsuhara