The Arkansaw traveler., 1887-08-13

gigantic and sublime, till the mind is at loss to find an epithet for it's own use. To realize Niagara you must sit there till you see nothing else than that which you have come to see. You will find yourself among the waters as though you belonged to them. The cool liquid green will run through your veins, and the voice of the cataract will be the expression of your own heart. You will fall as the bright waters fall, rushing down into your new world with no hesitation and with no dismay; and you will rise again as the spray rises, bright, beautiful and pure. Then you will flow away in your course to the un- compassed, distant and eternal ocean,
 And now we will cross the water, and with this object will return by tHe bridge out of Goat Island on the mainland of the American side. But as we do so let me say that one of the great charms of Niagara consists in this: That over and above that one great object of wonder and beauty. there is so much little lovcliness- fVfVfthG~S -MhtNIs \ tuNNit. There arc little rivulets running here and there over little tails, with pen dant boughs above them, and stones shining under their shallow depths. AS the visitor stands and looks through the trees, the rapids glitter before him and then hide themselves behind islands. They glitter and sparkle in far distances under the bright foliage till the remembrance Is lost, and one knows not which way they run.
 Having mounted the hill on the Canada side you will walk on toward the falls. As have said betore, you will from this side look directly into the full circle of the upper cataract. while you will have before you at your left hand the whole cxpanse ot the lesser fall. For those who desire to see all at a glance, who wish to comprise the whole with their eyes, and to leave nothing to be guessed, nothing to be surmised, this, no doubt, is the best point of view
 You will be covered with spray as you walk up to the ledge of rocks, but l do not think that the spray will hurt you. If a man gets wet through going to his daily work, cold, catarrh, cough and all their attendant evils may Ike expected; but these maladies usually spare the tourist. Change of air, plenty of air, excellence of air and increased exercise make these things powerless should therefore bid you to disregard the spray. If, however, you are yourself of differ ent opinion, you may hire suit of oil-cloth clothes for, believe, quar- ter of dollar They are nasty, of course. and have this further disad- vantage, that you become much more wet having them on than you would be without them.
 Here, on this side, you walk to the very edge of the cataract, and if your tread be steady and your legs firm, you dip your foot into the water ex- actly at the spot where the thin out side margin of the current reaches the rocky edge and jumps to join the mass of the fall. The bed of white foam beneath is certainly seen better Aiiuii CirtN uiNI tUt RItGI curve of the water is as brig here as when seen from the wooden rail across. But, nevertheless, say again that that wooden rail is the on. point from whence Niagara may be best seen aright.
 Close to the cataract, exactly at the spot from whence in former days the Table Rock used to project from the land over the boiling caldron below, there is now shaft down whic,. you will des end to the level of the river, and pass between the rock and the torrent. This Table Rock broke away from the cliff and fell. as up the whole course O the river the seceding rocks have split and fallen from time to time through countless years, and will continue to do until the bed of the upper lake is reached. You will de- scend this shaft, taking to yourself or not taking to yourself suit of oil- clothes, as you may think best.
 In the spot to which I ailude the visitor stands on broad safe path, made of shingles, between the rock over which the water rushes and the rushing water. He will go in so far that the spray rising back from tfie bed of the torrent does not incommode him. With this exception, the further he can go in the better; but circum- stances will clearly show him the spot to which he should advance. Unless the water be driven in by very strong wind, five yards makes the diff ference between a comparatively dry coat and an absolute wet one. And then let him stand with his back to the en- trance, thus hiding the last giimmer of the expiring day. So standing he will look up among the falling waters, or down into the deep misty pit, from