The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-09-25
SCOTIA'S GREATEST NAMES
Homes and Graves of Burns, the Ma
tional Poet, and of Carlyle.
The Beauties of Ayr and the Monument at
Dumfries-the Lonely Grave in Eccle-
fecham's Quiet Church

SCOTLAND, August, 1S87.--It is scarcely two
hours ride from Glasgow to Ayr. The short dis
tances. ard the easewith which you go from one
his toric place to another, is constant surprise
to an American who is used to long journeys,
and is likely to measure in thought his itinerary
by the magnificent distances of his own country.
The beauty of AYR, in its location and surround
ings its wide streets, handsome buildings. and
air of cleanliness and thrift. q revelation.
The bay of Ayr is lovely sheet of water. and
its banks lined with pleasure resorts, Ayr
itself. of course, being favorite. Some of tho
streets that have outlook seward faced
with the handsome residences of wealthy gen.
tlemen doing business in Edinburgh and in
Glas Cow. Here Mr.. Andrew Clark, of thread
notoriety. has very fine seat. which he occu-
pies the greater part of the year. There is very
little in about Ayr to indicate poverty or
degradation; it is bright. clean, thrifty and at
tractive little city. and is set in landscape
worthy of its charms. From the broad bosom
of the bay rises Ailsa Craig in its isolated rug
gedness, while the mountains of Arran and Ben
Lomond the hills of Butte, and the lofty mount
aims of the Argyleshire Highlands form the
frame of the picture. Ayr has history. Wal
lace, who here made mis- first open stand in
bellion against England. has Gothic memorial
Robert Bruce convened his parliament in Ayr,
and Oliver Cromwell has left his mark in the
shape of fort But what is all thisl Ayr is
the birthplace of Robert Burns, and as Shaks-
peare fills and overfows Stratford so Burns fills
and overfows Ayr and all this part of Scot
land. Of course the first thing did was to go
down to the river and see the ''twa brigs0 They
there. just they were when Burns sang
of them the old one is massive and seemingly
indestructible it has been for six hundred
years. while the new one has the air of smartness
that WAS the subject for rebuke in the poem. The
aud brig stands secure. without having had
days attention while the new brig has been
practically rebuilt once, and, like many
things, is almost constantly in the hands of
pair. Both bridges in constant use they
not more than two blocks di slant from each 9TH
er. and walked over both of them. their road
ways leading into different quarters of the city.
Near the Wallace tower ON the main, High
street, is Tam OShanters Inn," with that in
formation its face in great letters with the add
ed statement that the upstairs room where Tam
and Souter Johnny used to meet, with their two
chairs and the 'coups" from which they drank
their roaming swats," can be seen just the
two cropies left them. After seeing these things
and walking about the place thoroughly. took
cab. accepting the invitation Of the ''cab-
by" to take me through 'the Burns country" It
is ride of little over two miles to Burns's cot
tage, a low matched, we'll whtewashed
hut, the middle one of three ten
ements of like character all Of which are now
under ownership of the Burns Associa-
ton, and in of which, with
a modern added building in the rear, is mu-
scum of Burns relics. There fac-similes
of several of Burnss poems, and at least one
piece of his original manuscript. There is also
Dumfries in 1884. and. OF course. the usual
walking cane, with a candle-stick and snuff
fers, and other things used by the poet The
room in which Burns was born is a queer little
one. with its Unset bed" in one corner. where
on he ushered into this world. Tho room
is low and dark; one small window in tho rear
near the bed. ACIDS it's feeble light to only one,
somewhat larger, in front. The door is the
same that there when Burns was born. and
there several pieces of Burns furniture
particularly chair and table. both Of which
tied with strong cords presume to keep
visitors from carting them away. At the time
of my visit. an enterprising young American.
carrying an amateur camera, was negotiating
for the privilege of removing the chair into the
back yard to take a photograph of it, aided
in argument and entreaty by his wife, who
was seated in the middle of the little
sketchiug the humble place, with that compla-
cent and self-satsfied air only acquired By
young ladies who sport easel and devot-
ed to ''art" Often had I read of, and quite
often looked upon, pictures of the ''auld clay
beein," and had made up my idea Of the room
where
''The Janwar win
Blew hansel in on Robin;
But it was hard to make myself believe that,
at last stood upon the very spot. and that in
that close, dark. crowded corner-the bed "cut
In" to the wall, like oven sheif-was born
genius. and that in this room he 'lisped
in numbers that have been the choicest songs
of the whole world. From the cottage it is but
a few steps to the Doom that here winds its way
between somewhat high banks heavily wooded
and shaded in quite dense foliage On the
way you pass Alloway Kirk aud its grave yard.
The stone gable stands toward the road, and the
sill of the window is there through which Tam
saw the witches. one in her equity sark," and
then started on his famous ride toward the sAuld
Brig" whose key stone was safety, but at which
point his faithful mare left her ain grey tail.
The brig is worthy its fame; it is old, hoary.
venerable No knows its history, and no
one cares much for anything else than for its
place in Burns's masterpiece. Tam O Shanter'
was written in one day at Hollywood and Alex.
ander Smith says sit the best days work
ever done for Scotland since Bruce fought Ban
nockburn." On the other side of the road.
upon bluff overlooking tho Doom. and in sight
of the auld brig, stands the Burns monument.
a Grecan temple. The view from the monument
is very fine. Among its relics the Bible
Burns presented to Highland Mary, and Jean
Armour's wedding ring. At the foot of the
gardens by which the monument is surrounded.
IS small building in which the statues of
Tam and Souter Johnny. should have men
toned that in Alloway Kirk-yard is the grave
of the poets father, and also that of
Souter Johnny. Tam is buried miles
away. This neighborhood is good for full
days stay at least. from the most buried tour
list Even my Denver friend, think, would have
consented TO entire hour. He might have