National Republican., 1887-08-30
WINE DISCUSSIONS.
what Wines to Use for Dinner, from
the PEN of an Expert.

the Pen of an Expert.
Gastronomic knowledge, or the art OF
gastronomy, is not identical with epIcureau
ideas Of high festive living, The gourmand,
or gourmet, may be rather simply the man
OF exquisite taste content with few dishes
well prepared and with single glass Of
choice wine. Rational selection Of and
combining viands and fluids for the meal,
be 1t for the family table or for guests on
extra occasions, this may be defined as the
art we speak OF. Rational would imply
also wholesome. Table arrangements,
then, should embrace as first condition that
attribute to the articles for the meal aud
their proportionlng In a manner to elicit
from the guests next days expression OF
true pleasure experienced and of freeness
from sensations consequent upon excess.
Know hCw to awake the desire OF your
guests to psrtake Of your hospitality. Let
none Of them dread beforehand q banquet
Of which headache aud indigestion are In
separable results. To defeat these results
is feilI ed gasuonomy.
Not versed In lucullcan Wand lore, the
writer can only speak of the liquids for the
hospitahle board.
The so.called appetizer IN the shane OF
proprandial btters may have its season OF
usefulness In very cold climes. The
model French host cschews appetizers,
confident In the attractions Of his table
without bitters to stimulate.
The prelude to the meal should he the
soup, after this according to the old Span
ish adage-
81 gricens yer q tu manuo garditc,
Despues do 10 sopa dele un traguto.
Let o white wine be served, rich dry
wine Of good aroma. The white Pinot,
Semmillion, and the COlumber grapes,
from which are reproduced In California
wineries good types OF such wines may
enter here. The sustensnce Of the To- -Kalon
vineyard, the RieslnGs, Moselle, and other
white wines cooled down generously
TO forty or less degrees, will, with credit,
accompany the dish, with oysters and fish
following the dish. The rich Mayonase or
other sauces should not interfere with the
tnioyment OF the sip Of wine. Have a pota-
tiCn from the water glass to reprepare the
alate for the appreciation of the vintage.
Challis, hook, sauteruc, capri, blanca, and
others used to be de rigucr. Our own
growths now ere coming In. The best OF
ours, pure and moderately mature, will
gently warm the blood, promote pleasant
chat, and respect the brain-If we do enjoy
1t ttmperately and by sips.
With the next course let your good red
wine come for accompaniment. First the
light claret. IL our own growths are too
viEous just add what our sweet California
grapps often do not carry 10 sufficient pro-
pCi,ion-water. Even the Burgundy from
he Pinot grape Of the To kslon vineyard
will be benefited by dilution, and thereby
h.comc delicious 10 Its composition, it>
Taste, and it's flavor. The fuller boiled
wiIes from high grade red grapes will give
2est TO the relish of the roast.
The chateau vince of France, the grand
wines from different countries, known, 1t is
tue, only 10 a few privileged ones, we can
not supplant. The same does our modest
native sherry rank with none of the origi
mails. Let who can afford to add them
place II glass Of the exceptions at the right
time before his guest. TIE contrast Of i'm.
pressious from the good native wines to tue
varielies from abroad will never be so
marked as to awaken an impression that we
need look down, but rather that our wines
are fit for genteel tables, and that snobbery
enters yet too much in the judgment Of
those who are guided by label aud high
prices. But where comes Port in? Where
To-KayY Let a pony glass OF the fortified
sweet wines appear when pudding and des-
sert Is served, and then top of with tue
eparklirg wine, Is not that retarded people
Will ask who have often seen the roast desc
Grated by libations of champagne, or rather
see the latter deprived Of It's true, gently
eHbilar iting, and rapidly evaporating effect
by eating heavy meats aud vegetables with
IL. Let the light foatning beverage be served
before, II you like, but its true place Is not
during, but at the finale OF the meal. 1t is
its epilogue.
1t certainly will be the better conclu sion
for the oung and the fair sex than after
the Indispensable tiny cup of strong black
mocha, the only old Benedlctlne, or other
cDassc cafe for the males. BY the by, an
old sherry or blackberry brandy in the pony
glass is found by some gentlemen In this
city to be an excellent chasse cafe
L. POuyDoRFF.
52T Eleventh street II. W.
To. .Kalon OG'cc Of To-Kalon Wine Vaults