The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1887-02-15
A GRAPHIC PICTURE.
A Visit to the Head of the Flow

ing of the Niaka Literary Association,
and has been St. - the GAzK7TE for publ
cation, Mr.. Mckay says:
On nearing the scene of the lava flow
about : o'clock in the afternoon of Saturday,
Jan. 49,. our attention was about equally
divided between the volumes of smoke issu-
ing from the mountain side near the source,
and the constant Jets of steam shooting into
the air along the margin OF the sea for per
haps a couple of miles, where the fiery ele
ment seemed to be consuming even the
mighty Pacific in its hitherto irresistible
march. Upon close examination with my
glass could distinguish large masses of
dark 49, 4n-colored lava, slowly forced by
the pressur, behind, meet the
heavy swell u $40 ...--... an, and with a
rolling plunge bury ltse,G ro.ever alnid a
seething mass of steam and foam, the
product of the two greatest forces the earth
contains. At three different places small
streams of lurid molten lava could be seen
pouring their living fire into the breakers
as they dashed themselves into foam and
mingled with the steam that shot many feet
into the air above.
But the growing darkness gradually
changed the scene, and all eyes were now
intently turned to the grand display on the
mountain side. At first the eve could not
wander from the cone which appeared to be
the source, at an elevation of about 5000
feet, and about twenty miles distant from
where we lay which sent up constant solid
volume of molten lava which seemed larger
than the steamer on which we hoated, and
variously estimated by the passengers at
from 90 to 200 feet in height. Clouds of
smoke filled the air around and above it,
and at intervals of about a minute or SO it
would belch forth flashes of lightning to
illuminate the sky so that the very smoke
itself seemed lurld glare Of sulphurous
fire.
As the darkness of night closed around the
rest of the mountain, the course of the lava
became more and mere distinct; now you
trace Its course until few miles further
down the mountain side you see it tumbling
and pouring over a precipice, as q cascade
that might easily be mistaken for another
fountain connected with, and playing from,
the regions of fire beneath. Then you follow
1t along sweeping but not tortuous chan
mel, down the mountain side for miles with
out break. Now it is hid for a short in
terval, by forcing for itself passage under
the lava that has already cooled and formed
black crust above ; but, as if determined to
brook no restraint, it again bursts in full
view, magnificent river of fire for 4 few
miles more, and then again hides, and re-
appears In the same way, until it is finally
lost In the cracks and chasms of the hun
dreds of acres of smouldering lava piled
along the fiat bordering the sea below, and
rolling large quantities of the latter into the
sea, but itself only reaching the ocean in its
molten state at three places, us stated before.
The coal-black lava for Il mile on each side,
the belching fountain of lava above, the
the fiery river of lava coursing its sulphur
GUS way to the sea, and the lurid glare of the
smoky heavens closing around, formed Il
scene of sublime fiery grandeur, the like of
which few on earth eyer witnessed, and once
seen can never be effaccd from memory.
Such was the scene before which we lay
until an hour or SO before daylight, when
engines were again put in motion and we
shaped our course for Punaluu, at which
place most of the passengers landed, intend
ing to visit the crater of Kilauea, which must
appear quite insignificant after viewing the
scene of grandeur we just left. For myself
and companion we felt determined to reach
the source of the new flow, so returned with
the steamer to Honuapo, where we procured
a trap, and Immediately headed for Kahuku.
About three miles of an uphill rocky road,
washed out by the late rains, and IN many
places strewn with boulders, tumbled from
the banks by the recent earthquakes, brought
us to Naalehu plantation. Near the mill is
situated one of the largest country stores l
have seen in the Kingdom, the manager of
which, Mr.. Bevens, treated us very cour-
teously, and assisted us much in our arrange
ments for the mountain trip. After short
plantation, and hasty lunch, We sent mes
senger for Macombe, the celebrated noun
tain guide of that district, to meet us at
Kahuku Ranch III the morning, and then,
accompanied by Mr.. Bevens, set out for the
same destination ourselves.
Twenty minutes more of the same rocky
road, which would try the skill and nerve of
any Jehu, brought us, without accident, to
the cosy little village of Waiohinu, quietly
resting under the hill at an elevation of,
perhaps, ], 800 feet above the sea. 1t pre-
sented pleasing picture of rural content
with its scattered houses, uncovered walls,
sweet, bracing air, and tropical foliage, glis-
tening with the jewely drops of a morning
shower; but absorbed with scenes of diff
ferent nature, we hurried over the seven
miles yet ahead, and arrived at Kahuku
Ranch about o'clock, but not in time to
escape a lively shower, which overlook us
mile or so before reaching the residence of
Mr.. Jones, whose generous hospitality de-
serves special mention. The dwelling-houses
of this ranch are pleasantly situated, at an
elevation of about 1000 feet, and perhaps six
miles from the sea +; the place is model of
neatness and thrift, and reflects great credit
on Mr.. Jones, the manager and proprietor of
the estate.
At an early hour in the morning horses
anu guide we're in waiting, and everything
necessary for the mountain trip being sup
piled, we were Joined by Mr.. Edward Mac
farlane and MIR. Godfrey Brown. of Homo
lulu. Quickly mounting, our guide led OF at
lively pace, which soon brought us to
branch of the flow of iGs. which we crossed,
aud skirting its edge to within few miles of
Its source, We recrOssed, and s0om found our
selves in a beautiful ohia wood, open and
grassy; while the morning sun, streaming
through the tree tops, the clear, bracing
mountain atmosphere, the sweet notes of the
beautiful 90, brought pleasing reeOllections
of youthful days. SO far remote from the
scene of terror We were Fastening To behold.
Ihe difficulties of the trail increasing with
our ascent, 1t soon required all our attention
to prevent our horses from stumbling over
the rocks and roots that beset our slippery
way. As We ueared the altitude at which
kOa timber beRirs to flourish, We came to
wHter-holr, and found u note stating that
party had arrived htrr two hours before, all
hale and hearty; but disaster having over
taken them u little further on, history does
not state the exact hour at which they ar
rived at the source of the flow. Passing q
Wild cattie-hunter's camp little further up
we tolled on for three hours more, through
heavy koa timber, the uneven ground strewn
with moss-covered windfalls, large boulders.
and IN many places thick underproWth Of
heavy ferns, without anything to guide us
but here and there a blazed tree, knuwfi only
to our intrepid guide Who kent steadily an