Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-07-30
THE CITY BY THE SEA.
The Traditional Era adeur and Modern
Splend0r OF Newport.

SplendOr Oh newport
81, BREEzEs AND SOCIAL AsPEcTs-MoDrsTEs AT THE
sEAsIpE-JAPANEsE AND ARABIAN CoTToNs-TRoU-
vELLE TOILETS AND CASINO CosTUhEs-AMERICAN
BEAUTY IN ENGLISH GUIss
NEWPORT. July %.
Whatever other places may boast OF In the way
OF fashion and attraction there is nothing in this
country or any other quite like Newport. 1t has
navCr been .bOOnci7 Ike LenOx; prices OF real
estate here have never ''gOne up IN the startling
fashion OF some other younger yet more preten-
tiouS resorts: yet as a permanently attractive
summer city, Newport may always be counted
upon: no other possessing its peculiar combina-
ton Of modern luxury with quaint old-time, VII
lage simplicity and no other the wealth OF old
trees and fine driving roads with the
extent and beauty OF beach and shore.
Newport has history. Not much of a one, TO
be sure beside the old historic and Legendary as
soCiatiOnS which iInpart the charm TO 50 many
European resorts, but enough to give 1t varied In
tereSt. 10 rid u OF that exasperating faculty OF
"newnesSr which is 50 conspicuous feature OF
our life. There Is staid ana settled ana SOBER
element back OF its aspect OF luxury, which. after
all, shows less in gliding and display than In the
air o: finish, which we know in THIS country means
cost Money has been gradually accruing in New
port till IL has become summer home for only the
very wealthy; but It is not so much the cost OF a
cottage in Newport the cost OF living in IL which
limits Its availability Naturally, there are cliu
sites and avenue 'bOcks-" which foot up 10 enor,
shaded streets lined with charming, yillaike resi-
denceS, which cost 600 or 800 TO rent for three
mouths Out can De 09u. oOo 1b rom
age or lawn or garden and noble old trees thrown
Ia These houses are liked all the better II tney are
not new: II the doors are Sunken In the wall, the
windows deep-Seated. and the hall wide ana
CHEEKY, as was the fashion OF nifty years ago. with
nyinE-rooms opening on either side OF it,
There is an old, salt flavor about Newport. of
which, with all its modern luxury, it does not
seem TO be ashamed. Old sea captalns-many,
hora I'll n hgr am
station, quite contingent OF naval onicers and
their wives are constantly quartered here. There
Newport that was commercially greater than
New York; more distinguished as center than
Washington and the house Is still standing where
colonial bellies danced in brocaded satin slippers
at ball given by ROehambeau.
BELLEVUE AVENUE
was probably not in existence then; now 1t IS the
principal street and full OF the most widely-con-
trasting elements. Promenade and thoroughfare,
It Is still village street. with narrow sidewalks
and cObblestOne roadway, only partly redeemed
from It's original sin OF rUtty uneyenneSS- Fine
residences set in paTk-ltke grounds hOonob with
little tenements the lower part OF which are let In
offices. the upper part in lodgings Village carts
which ladies DIVE the llge sitting at tine back,
ness and magnificent ramrodS in livery, pass and
repas In perpetual review or stop before the little
frame stores or shops above, below, and on either
size OF the casino, which are aled with the most
extravagant wares. There is no medium. They
represent the highest, most exclusive, and veal
thieSt trade in Paris and New York, and a fortune
could be spent In gowns, or even In halr brushes,
IN a single morning
have branch houses here during the season. and
their selection OF goods Is made from their richest
tnI2orJlttOnS. But they are limited 10 certain
Classes Of goods and designs and possess all the
characteristics of tOilettrS seen at FrOuVtue or
any gay French watering place.
There are country mourning dresses, AMI walk
fn- dresses and dinner dresses OF the richest and
gayes and prettiest; but there are few or no even
iu., dresses OF the character required during the
winter season in New York. Full evening dress is
indeed neither looked for nor needed Driving,
dinners and luncheOns are the entertainments
most in vogue. and though the whole ensemble OF
a certain portion OF New York has been trans
ferred. for the time, TO the narrow streets and
wide Sea-SpaceS OF the Old sea town, and with it
its habit or luxurious living; yet the life seeks
more OF the Out-OfdoorS and eats less into the
night
COTTON DRESSES
are In the ascendant this year, here as well as
abroad. But not the cotton with gathered skirts
and simple hem or 1ounce at the bottom, such as
our mothers or grandmotherS wore. Not These
are draped and mounted and finished Just as
deliberately as II they We're silk, and the cost is
little less. "Here is simple dress" said sales
woman TO a customer, sand 1 am Ire Mrs. Blank
you take the foulard." certainly" promptly re-
piled that lady, .you shall have the cotton dress
FOR So and the foulard for $780,"
The figured and striped cotton and SatfneS the
checked and striped zephyr gfnghams, the soft
finished cambrics and creepy, seIni-tranSparent
usually made over silk. Occasionally the under
skirt or lining may be OF plain Saline or chamDry
Of the ground color OF the outside, but silk lining
Is far more general. A silk lining for q cotton
skirt sounds like an abSurdity, but fashion
pays no attention 10 anything but effects;
and, besides, the cost must seen to be put some
where. The lining is not run In with the seams
as formerly, but made into an INDEPENDENT skirt
into which the steels are put that form the tourn-
ure; and upon this the dress skirt is mounted and
arranged In totally indescribable folds and drape
rtes The sides are paneled with ribbons or velvet;
ribbons are sometimes put on as border to the
bottom OF the skirt, before the side folds or drape-
res are laid, and the bodice Is mounted with vest
collar, cufrs or plaStIon matching In color and
Loopings have quite given place TO these fiat, pam
eled effects, and the finish OF the bodice the shir-
ring-with or without cordS-tne crossed silken
IOlds and picturesque sleeves. grouped without
regard 10 cost and with single eye to the pro-
cucuon OF an artistic or graceful design.
EXIT THE LAUNDRESS.
The old idea of washing cotton dress does not
enter into the calculation. II these dresses are
ever worn enough 20 be Soiled, they are sent to a
professional cleaner not washed" by an ordinary
laundress- In the construction OF fashionable
IOletteS economy has ceased 10 be considered
Whatever the material may BE-, the cost amounts
10 very much The same. Very cheap and very
costly materials are put together, and as much
work Il put into cotton dress as into silk one,
sometimes more
The creepy cotton-known as japanese or cara
bian" cOttOn-lS I'm cents per yard, yet I'm one
instance, IL was combined with checkered SILK
canvas at not less than s1.5O per yard. The can
Vas was used 10 form inserted CORES laid In finest
folds and set IN at intervals round the bottom OF
the sArt. IL also formed the deeply crossed scarf
drapery and pointed vest in IOldsl and cuffs and
cUiIdT Tor the bodice. This dress was made upon
twlied silk, sage green IN color, like the cotton
because the cotton and canvas are both semi.
transparent The cost OF the original body part OF
the material (the cotton crepe) was probably not
more than ~ yet the cost OF the dress, as shown
when completed was $40.
The Summer has been characterized eyerywhern
by an UNUSUAL degree OF heat. Perhaps this Is the
rei>On " the rush for fOulardS and soft silks
Whatever the cause, SOft India silks tusSorss aud
spotted or figured foularlS form the majority
VI the
CASINO COSTUMES
The Casino Is the swell lounge in the morning
IL Il pretty. but nonot0Roui The same people
Eleet and do the same things; that is sit stiu OF
5aunter about, exchange word with those they
kho", wdtch-wlthout apparent Interest," game
OK teinlS ana so home; stopping 10 buy novel or
look at an exAloirlon OF millinery
Oh the way.
Following this convenient custom we dropped
Ia the other day upon a collection OF fresh and
charming costumes. The pretty foulards were in
stripes Ike the borders on sevres ware dividing
the small figures and nOwerets into wider Stripes
The IavOrlte colors are helOtrope and white ctear
currant red and white and pretty faWn 0ray
with rings In two shades or brown.
RunleS seem 20 De coming Ii again and lace Is
used; out the draperfeS fkl gracefully and nc
longer form the huge bunch at the back: i'm fact
TINS mas almost entirely disappeared. Graduated
bands OF moire rbbOn often form a panel upon
one SIDE OF these fou!ard costumes, always In the
positive coOr while the other side is lOoIed hiph
tlr lace or SOFT SiIkeQ fabric falling m IN