The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-10-02
A VISIT TO MR.. GLADSTONE
The Grand Old Man Amongst His Old
Neighbors---His Wife and Children.
Chester, with It's Ancient Flavor-Its Roman
Walls and Antique "Rows'-Hawarden
Castle and Park on a Jubilee Day.

staff Correspondence of the indianapolis Journal.
LIVERPOOL. August lS57.-By mere in
cident, and not by design ''the best OF
the wine reserved for the last of the
FEAST" SO far as my trip in England con-
cerned Leaving Scotland by way of Carlisle,
the tour of the Lake district made. with
its visit to Keswick. where. in the yard OF
st. Crossthwaite's Church, the poet Southey is
buried. and to Grasmere. the burial place of
William Wordsworth and Hartley CAeridgs, end
ing with part of day at Furness Abbey, the
most extensive and the finest ruin. in many
respects. have seen anywhere. Then on to
Manchester and thence to Derbyshire again,
where Chatsworth, the seat of the Duke of De-
vonshire, visited, and Haddon Hall, the
early seat of the Dukes of Rutland, and the
scene of the romantic e!opement of Dorothy
Vernon with Lord John Manners. This brought
me TO the last week, the concluding three days
being set apart for trip to Chester, from
whence 1 expected to go to Liverpool and take
ship. The antiquity and quaintness of Chester,
are proverbiaL 1 found them in wise over
stated The gable-end houses, framed and
plastered. with the heavy beams deliberately
carved, and generally bearing some sort of an
inscription. were very curious. "Gods
Providence house still stands. the legend being
that it WAS the only house that escaped the
put on its front beam, Goods Provi-
dence is mine inheritance" Bishop Loyds
Palace is another house Of the
Same general type. but the carving on its front
is extraordinarily ornate. Scripture scenes for the
most part being represented by the artist. The
old time rows. or stalls, two stories in height,
running in front of the business houses, are
unique in Chester. There is something like them
in the city of Berne, Switzerland, but in the
latter the arcades only story high. while
in Chester they are, stated, two stories.
Through them You can walk uninterruptedlv for
long distances in the central and business por-
tons of the city. New architecture is made to
conform to aud preserve this chief characteristic
and attraction of the old town. The walls
of Chester still carefully maintained, and at
least three of the towers or gatsways yet hold
their places. AS in York. the foundations of
the walls go back to Roman times; the walls
themselves date from the Edwards. OF course
the city has greatly outgrown the walls. The
larger part of it is outside the inclosurs but the
walls are there aud they make a pleasant and
useful promenade. Walks over and around the
walls the best way to see the place, especial
" its historical features, including castle and
Cathedral The old Phenx tower is where
Charles the First Stood and from its window
Rowton Moor The little room is full of all
sorts of Roman relics. and those of Charles's
date but it is chiefly visited in order
to stand at the very place, to look
through the very window, occupied by
the unfortunate King. as he saw his last
stronghold on the eve of surrender to the vieto-
rious Roundheads. Chester and it's people were
very loyal. and the entire neiehborhood is rich
in history of the struggle that ended with the
execution at Whitehall Chester is on the Dee.
not far from the sands" that mark its exit into
the sea- and, for all know, the "old miller"
may have had his home hard by. One OF the
days. or at least part of one, I spent in
curson up the river. about five miles, to Eaton
Hall. the magnificent seat of the DUKE of West
minister, the reputed richest man in Ergland.
Eaton Hall is new place, not more than twelve
or fifteen years old. It is beautiful, extensive,
elaborate in all its appointments. The library,
for instance, noble room, ia finished in Ameri.
can walnut, inlaid with mother of pearl, and
the whole establishments is as rich in adornmenr
unlimited wealth can make it. But it is not
home. and can't understand how even
duke could be at all comfortable in such
place His Grace'is the owner of Ben Dor,
the celebrated horse, and two other gentlemen
with myself made q heroic effort to see the
great racer, but in vain. On nearing the stable
man came running, with much excitement,
and informed that we were tresspassers
that that particular part of the es-
tate his Grace reserved for his own
private use; that his Grace permitted no
one to visit the stables; that his Grace
was very exclusive about that, etc. OF courses
it was all right; and besides being an earnest
believer in Free Grace, and the Duke not being
that kind of Grace, evidently. relinquished
the pleasure of looking at Ben Dor. being
reasonably contented with the beautiful park
and with the restful shade of the oaks that lined
the banks of the Dec, flowing just in front, or
| rather in the rear, OF the stately hall
But Chester had for me its principal attraction
| in that it was but seven miles to Hawardeu
| Castle the residence of the RI Hon. w. E.
| Gladstone had greatly hoped to see and hear
| Mr. Gladstone in Parliament; but during the
| time 1 was in London he was suffering from a
| severe cold, aud confined to hia house and room.
| L had given up all hone of seein or hearirg
| him. but desired to leave England with the last
day carrying with it the recollection of visit to
| his home. 1t happened that two days before
| Mr.. Gladstone had made his last great speech
| on his motion for an address to the Queen
| against the proclamation of the Irish National
League and had then eparted Immediately for
Hawarden, that he was at least in the castle
| when I should visit it. 1t was about 2
| o'clock in the afternoon when
reached the park, after a drive over a
not specially attractive road, making its way
| through two more little coal villages, some
| what diney and dirty such places cannot
| help being. The park is several hundred acres
| in extent. and is more nearly park, instead of
| a garden. than any Sther of the English estates
| / had visited The surface of the land is broken
| and undulatory almost hilly in places, while
| the trees are large, heavy and numerous. Mr..
| Gladstone may be never Industrious a wood
| chopper; there is ample material for his and
| scope for his avocation his home grounds
| Hawarden has history. u goes back many
| hundred years The old castle. the ruins OF
| which stand not far from the modern residence.
| is more than six hundred years old. 1t figured
| consniculouslY in the history of the civil xzars