The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-05-01

bon, the dress, the parasol, the fan carried
with an 'air" and common little handker
chief, but with border matching the tone, if
not exact color Of the dress.
must say, for myself, that the sight of
workwoman on Sunday in such costume,
her gay dress, faultless in fit, her head car
RED high, her parasol higher, her fan flut-
terlng-even though i'll gale of wind
gives more pleasure than all the brilliant
toilets of the grand opera. | am thankful
then, with all my heart, to the manufacturer
OF the pattern dresses ''cOmplet,n for he
provides those who cannot afford anything
better, with something that gives them
satisfaction, that gratifies their experienced
senSe-not to say cultivated taste and
whatever gives us fullness of enjoyment in
this world, within the small domain of fixed
and narrow resources, is something to be
glad and thankful for.
Our workwomen are not so restricted.
They have usually several cotton dresses for
summer wear, several wooden for winter
wear, and they aspile-without an excep-
tion-to silk ON Sunday Besides, they
would not carry figured Saline parasol
when stripes were in fashion. even though
1t matched the dress. They want stripes
IL stripes 1t lS-Or nothing.
SUMNER MATERIALS
There are many new and pretty materials
IN wool and silk or all silk and all wool: but
they possess one uniform characteristic they
are soft, pliable, gentle in tone and texture,
light in weight and fall in easy folds 1t
seems quite impossible to revive the stiff and
why alpaccas, the more stately poplin or
even the useful de beige. We hear occasion
ally of these materials being employed fash
ionably, but they are not seen either in the
shops or on the street. The materials in de-
mand are the fine cloths, the camel's hairs,
the thin woods, the cambrics, the ginghams,
the soft silks and the lovely new mixtures
OF silk and wool known as Bengaline, pedn
de sole and the like.
In some of these colors are united so as to
produce the most artistic effects-as the
"Gobelins" for example-which blend gray,
green and gold, or gray, blue and gold ex
quisitely. The new designs and conbna-
lions show fantastic differences only to be
recognized by experienced eyes. When
pialdS are used, for instance, they are en-
ployed for the skirt and a smaller plaid or
plain material for the bodice and drapery.
When stripe is used, however, this is gen
orally reversed. A solid material is reserved
for the skirt, which may have stripe let in
as panel, if the design admits Of it, but the
upper part of the dress, basque or poionaise,
IS of the striped fabric with vest or reUerS
of the plain,- or whatever mounting the de-
sign calls for. The newest Scotch ginghanls
show large plaided patterns for the skirt,
and small plaids, checks or solid colors for
the bodice &nd drapery
The Gobelin silks in their soft, dark opal
and anlethystine shades are perhaps the
prettleSt CT the summer, silks; and suit 50
well the touch of pink or green in lining or
i'll the trimming of the bonnet. Pink, a very
delicate shade, is revived, and allowed in
conjunction with gray, in small quantities
and almost out of sight, even in the street
Pink and lilac are also combined; and pink
with tender green and brown, q union of
colors fashionable forty years ago, when
the fashionable shades were very much what
they are now.
Some of the new foulards are charming
The ground is covered with a small, all
over, irregular, puzzle pattern in olive or
green, with minute dots in old gold or blue
or white, set like little points or nails in the
pattern. This design conceals the light
ground and imparts a general tone of color
and character which foulards often lack
and renders them more available than when
printed in small, detached figures upon the
light grounds Light grounds are not now
tolerated in materials that are used for any
outdoor purpose. The shops are inundated
with pretty chales-a fine and soft printed
wool-which is however, more like the old
| fashioned wool delaine, than the chale of
our grandmothers. All the same, it is a fine,
soft, delicate material, all wool, but printed
| in detached floweretS or leaves on a cream
| ground. and therefore unwearable in the
| street except in the country. But away
| from the conventional necessities of city
streets, in the quiet of villages and country
homes, it furnishes fine, gentle and mex
pensive material, very cheerful looking,
| only 25c per yard and needing no extras in
the way of silk lining, which brings cost up
to the annihilating point with many women.
| A clever and successful way of utilizing
the cheap ecru and white cottons in lace
designs has been discovered, and may be
| taken advantage of by those who cannot
avail themselves of the new methods of
applying drawn work to plain linen. The
| idea is simply TO run narrow colored ribbons
| through the open part of the stripe, length
| wise upon the bodice and SO as to form
panels or complete striped front to eskirt.
A sash may also be finished i'll this way for
the back The lighter shades of ecru are
the prettiest, run with very narrow ribbons
in two shades of ecru and still finer lines of
green or blue and black or red. The rib
bon is 1Sc to 25c per piece Of ten yards; and
the cottons are 10c to 12c, or possibly l5c
per yard. They can be worn for after
Moons, whole season, without washing.
CANVAS COSTUMES.
In the windows of many dry goods shops
upon Broadway and elsewhere, are noun
tdlllS OF all WOOL CANVAS clOUH Ill lovely, lSnJ
shades of yellow stone or gray. They are
marked down to 25c. per yard; yet, when
made by fashionable dressmaker, the cost
of a canvas dress will come up to $15 at the
very least The reason is, that complete
dress is made of silk, underneath this one of
canvas wool and that it is fnished-so far
as the bodice is concerned-with even more
care than an ordinary silk bodice. All the
fitting is done III the silk lining, all the
seams are taken in this and not in the out
side. which is simply gathered i'll to the
form and tackled to the sides of the silk
front, which is finished as a vest plain,
plated or with a piece of Oriental en-
broidery, if the dress is trimmed in this
way.
These canvas materials are handsome and
durable; but of themselves they lack char
acter. They can be made over fine cotton
Saline of the shade and trimmed with con-
trast color in velvet, effectively, and much
less extensively.
FRENCH BODICES
of soft silk, shrimp pink, pale blue and ecru
are among this seasons importations They
are handsome and have "A little lace or fine,
open needlework laid fiat upon the silk for
trimming The cost is SD each; but they
could be easily reproduced by any clever
seamstress for five They are gathered into
a narrow fullness, front and back, and have
a skirt about the depth of an old-fashioned
Jersey basque. The sleeves are full at the
top and gathered into deep cuff, which is
cntarad with the laca They look well with