Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-10-29

special correspondence Of The EVENING DrAn
NEW York, october %
on one OF the streets of New York running at
right angles with Broadway is q big but dingy
store Great brass signs on either side OF the door
Indicate that 1t Is wholesale wine house. You
entef the ofnces, which have q dark but not de-
pressing appearance, and are met BY one Of the re-
tainers' who inquiries your business You state
tnat you wish 70 see the head Of the house, ana
alter some delay you are shown into the inner
once OF the establishment A man who looks the
type OF An elderly French count, but who Ia Ger
man, sits slipping champagne with rich customer,
ana wnen you enter he taps bell and orders the
retainer. who responds to the call to bring anothsr
quart bottle OF wine. Two or three of the agents
OF tne nr drop In. and as they sip their wine they
ana tne father OF the house, whose establishment
Of the metropolis tell you about the wine business
OF America. You hear the somewhat astonishing
little Il more sns shas
they did decade ago, notwithstanding the In
ere, OF population and wealth You are told
10 pe becoming more economical and to be learn
ing 10 drink more beer and less wine.
than any other city In the United states but Chi
cage uses large amount of it. This Is due to the
lators are the most LIBERAL imSibers Of champarne
are constantly beseged BY the Keen agents Of Wine
THE WINE DRUMMER.
Tnese agents are fashionably dressed elegant gen.
tlemen but their life Is hard one. They must drink
wine and spend money literally, and each must
nave besides pleasing address, an iron constitu-
,t they must know and be on good terms with
tne par enders and wine stewards the fashion
aDle resorts OF the CITY, for little carelessness In
keeping wine at proper temperature or In
toners They must know everybody who is worth
knowing and spend their liberal allowances for in
cldentais with Judgment: One agent for q then
the pills OF fare OF nearly every hotel New York
not long ago by reason OF his extensive acQuaint-
ance ana popularity but the firm objected to the
eAteht OF his expense account and he left them,
taxing with him much OF his custom.
,,, veteran agent OF one Of tho Wine houses, who
IKE many OF the profession, had his training In
Europe, tells Of his experience one day at resfau
rant 10 small German town. He entered with
nve gentlemen OF prominence who were on a rural
excursion With him and won the establishment
ana admlration OF the lOiterers about the place
when ne gave the order: "Brng me six bottles Of
considered great man by his townsmen had en-.
tered and heard the order. Determined not to let
ms gory iade before the luster OF the strangers
tone said: Bring me six bottles OF Champagne and
one glass" His order and his astonishing feat OF
cruising nearly all the Champagne raised him
mlHntily IN the estimation OF his admirers
EXPERTS WITH CULTIVATED rAsre.
The great champagne firm has its department OF
stu wines conducted by experts in that branch OF
the trade, who will tell you the aye and pedigree
OF wine by tasting 1t. They will tell you that
Americans are making comparatively slow prog
ress In learning to drink expensive still wines,
and that champagne is not after all the most ex-
wines at 50 bottle are sold in considerable guam
titles, and Giovanni MOrosini, Mr. Gould's right
hand man. who is not a wine drinker himself, Out
keeps well-Sto ked cellar, has some OF that
peculiarly rich brand OF Italian wine known as
Chianti which is almost worth its weight
in gold. The average New York wine nrm
N N
perfect him In the study OF his business One OF
these has just returned, and he states that the
season is less in quantity, but probably better in
quality, than that Of last year. The French Wine
growers are slowly learning the value Of certain
Application about the vines as protection against
mildew, and nearly every vineyard where this was
not used proved failure this year. The young
agent made the astonishing discovery that the
people in the champagne district drink yery little
champagne. The Frenchman and German usually
prefers red wine, and to meet the demand one
nrm Is now producing what tt calls ruby cham
payne.
FAMOUS WINE DRINKERS
There are some royal wine drinkers in New
York. One OF these is young man who may be
seen occasionally at the fashionable cafe and who
Is pointed out by the epicures as the person who
inherited Sam Wards stock OF rare old liquors.
Pat Gilmore, the famous musical director, never
drinks anything else but champagne, and he Is
considered one OF the best judges OF 1t in New
YORK. There is modest little restaurant on one
OF the cfosStown streets OF the city, whose prOprt
etor is cOurted by friends who long for a taste Of
his private stock OF Burgundy. and who envy him
because he has been able 10 drink it all bis LIE
without getting the govt.
The association OF epicures known as the Terra
PIN Club are constantly on the look for choice
Madeira which they use in cooking their feasts OF
diamond backs Recently a member found five
bottles OF II at old wine shop In a cheap part of
the city. The place had changed hands, and the
new proprietor was asked what he would take for
the liquor. He was getting el.50 a bottle for his
bottles at that price, When he discovered that tr
was some choice old wine, worth at least s bot
tie, he tried In vain TO annul the bargain.
A. j. CUMNINGS