Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1887-10-21
A CITY m INDIA.
Personal Observation OF Life in IIy-
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Errors About
Eastern Iuxuriancc.


bay. are aware that the number Of
more or less independent native states
and principalities ow ny allegiance in
various degrees 10 the imperial crown
of Great Britain exceeds 40. while the
] 2G) 900, 900 who inhabit the vast PEN
in,ula speak nearly POI distinct Lam
guagcs and dialects. Yet such is tho
truth. or all these states the Moslem
state of llyderabad is b, for the largest
and most important. His highness the
II Fam rules over 700 square miles OF
territory, hay NJ a population OF 9,70O,-
00) souls, chiefly Mohammedans and
llindoos. with scant sprinklIug of
Jews and PaIsess, and handful Of
Christians.
a British resident is installed beneath
the walls of his highness' capital, with
ont whose sanction not much can be
done, and British troops garrison
Sccunderabad, some few miles from the
gates. 1t is needless tc say that the
native states are allowed to indulge in
no foreign politely. but are merely
I given more or less latitude in the in
lernal adm nistrat on. In many instan-
ccs, moreover, the government of India
actually collects the revenues and adj
ministers the prime palty Oh commits
/ sion, "A certain fixed sum, or a percent
age. as the case NAV be. being handed
over TO the nominal ruler, who lives
/ free from the cares Of state among the
ladies' OF his 'Zenana. Not that |
would have it understood that the
majority Of Ind an jahs or m.harajahs
are mere volnptuar es. On the con-
! trarv many OF them are cultivated. re-
tined gentlemen. intelligently superin-
tending and assisting in the adm nistra-
ton OF their revenues, and personally
inquiring into the wants of their sub
jects. A few philosophical rulers, re-
fusinG all government guarantee, have
constructed railways at their own cost
and risk in their territories, and many
have establ she'd schools and museunS,
encouraging to their utmost native art
and learn ng Foremost among the
4 enlightened native mobiles stood the late
) I Salar Yung. prime III mister during
the nizam's minority, whose son, the
courteous and cultivated youn. Sir
Salar. bids fair 10 follow worthily in the
pos ton TO VIII CHI he has succeeded his
| father.
have been entertained by several
Of the mobiles and gentlemen at Hyder-
abad. Bombay aud elsewhere, and have
consequently had some opportunity of
judging, while my position as an inn
partial American will shield mo from
any suspic on of ilattery when | say
that | found among them as polished
and cultivated men Is could be found
in any western capital
Blu ldngs OF any artistic importance.
save the palaces and mausoleums Of
Golconca (of Arabian Nights fame)
there are none. But in spite of this all
agree in calling Hyderabad the most
interesting city in India. 1t is the peo-
pie themselves the street life, the me-
di9val pageant. and pomp which fas-
cinate. rything seems TO have
stood still for centuries. One is plung-
ed suddenly into the are of the cava.
iers The town is battlemented an d
ditched and jealousy guarded. In fact.
Il permit from the resident is necessa.
- for Euronaa,o ~ l,, ,,isL ., o,,o. a.
walls.
Once over the bridge spanning the
half dried stream. where elephants are
splashing in the deep pools. and hun
drcds of dhobies" are pounding and
scrubbing the linen of Hydeaba,lee
households, and what kalc doscopc
tumble meets the eve in the densley-
crowded streets There are long rows
OF low. whitcwashed buildings. with
facades OF Saracenc arches, under
which the merchants squat among piles
of cotton goods, silks. carpets. brass
ware. era II. etc. sucking med tatively
the amber mouthpiecs OF the inevita-
ble hubble bubble; money chan gers
chewing betel-leaf and rafting their
bags of "hailisicker" rupees. or Jumps
of rough-cut silver and copper On
he FIAT, terraced roofs yelled women
are curious!y pcering at the yelling
throng below through latticod screens,
rem nding one of Stamboul or Cairo.
Elephants. gorgeously caparisoned,
saddled with silver "howdah," in which
"Nawabs," clad in brilliantly brod-
cred slks and velvets. recline on cush-
ions; camels. on which are perched the
Arab soldiers of the nizam, armed with
lance and shield; prancing little horses
from tho Persian gulf mounted bv
sharp-featured, mitred Parsces, bank
ers or great merchants. are seen. VIII le
the mud colored throng of pedestrians.
Enthusiastically arrayed. or scarce arrayed
at all. as the case may be. rolls unceas-
ingly to and fro.
To the unintiat ed stranger it would