Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-08-19
LADIES' COLUMN.
A Patriotic Plea that Some American
OueenAssume the Scepter Of Fash
ion for Her Country-Women.
rnn,erment for Leisure Hours in the
Return to Braiding as rash.
icnab Trimming.
A Housekseper's Life too Often Series
Wa,t,-Dire cIiot 8 for Se1r cling Meats
and Canning Fruigs-Sotes.

l. should be q matter Of Chagrin 70
American women that they hsve so long
servilely obeyed the mandates OF foreign
d.cta.ors. August, it is true, IS not the
month for Fourth Of July speeches, but
as women have not realized their indie
pendepce, they have neither formulated q
declaration or set apart day sacred to
lis utteTapce, and q woman'S SAY is al
ways in season. American girls on the
Continent and in England are carrying
everything before them by their beauty
ard their style, II being universally ad-
mitted that they alone know how ID array
themselves, and in distraction from their
English sisters, afford delight to French
costumers.
Eugene, in her day, dictated fashions
to the world, not so much because she
was Empress of the French IS because OF
her beauty OF face and form, and
the exquisite sense OF appropriateness
which she possessed; q combination
which made her the inpirer Of the artist.
IL women must submit TO 8 rule, su-
tccrstic and despotic, let il ct least be no
foreign despotism, Int to fair queen of
their own land, whose beauty VIII serve
TO gid the letters she ordaius. To be q
but that must not ever border upon &C.
centricity. Women eagerly seize now
city in style, and II is essential that II be
graceful and becoming, possessing that
indefinable property called "style" to in
sure its popularity and adoption.
There are certainly among the many
American ghls who have shown them
selves 60 apt in the adaptation Of foreign
fashion to their individual charaCterls-
tics, some who might originate dislinc-
tive American fashions, and Dy wearing
them institute or this side the water
court which would soon rival that OF
Paris.
How the DEGREES Of fashion are dissem-
mated is & mystery. No secret society
with its pass words and grips, its secret
councils and star chamber oTderings is
more mysterious or certain Of obedience
to its behests, aud she who can sit as
De'pline oracle will have no radicals or
rebels among her subjects.
Zone secret in the success OF new fash
iOps is in nomenclature. To seize pop
Ular fancy and christian new style with
its name is to insure its imme date adop-
ton. Parodi waist, Bernhard glove,
Lapgtry bang, etc, all witness that in
fashions realm there is at least some
thing in name.
Often desire for change prompts some
new design which does not recommend
itself by It's artistic beauty. At present
there is strenuous effort 10 restore the
short waist and Its attendant full
skilt. Very reluctantly the change
is accepted, the Clinging and
Topped drapery affords so fac
On opportunity for display Of grace of
Ill !, 49,
both wearer and designer are 10th to
abandon so universal favorite.
Sleeves also are passing through a
transition period. The long thin arms
favor the pulled and full, while short,
plump ones affect the style which best
displays their charming proportions. The
indications are that happy medium will
be adopted, and that years will roll by
before there is q return to the torturing
tight sleeves of the past few years.
49, Costumes are now rendered very ornate
by elaborate Grading. AS this is princi-
pslly done by hsnd, it not iDfr6quently
adds SIS or $50 TO the cost Of costume.
It is. however, style of trimming which
can be easily made, and 8 young lady
with leisure can occupy her time and
exercise her taste in the enumeration
of her fall dresses. Very different
are the conditions now of such work,
stamping patterns make Il easy. Forty
wears ago the pattern was first carefully
trsced on tissue paper, then basted on
the material, efterward the braid was
stitched through the paper in all the in
tricacies of the design, and the work OF
patience began when the sewing was done
10 pick out every bit of paper without
fraYing or otherwise injuriDg the work
verify the world moves.
Jerseys which seemed in the spring in
their early decadence, are more numerous
than ever now. They are plain and close
fitting; with vests Of silk; braided and
beaded; with wide box plests down front
and back q la Norfolk JACKET, and even
made like q blouse.
White felt is the August wear Of hats
st the watering pisces, i. is in all shapes,
but of this material. The sailor shape is
most used, unless Ii be in the lawn ten
mis- hst, when the wide soft brim is
turned up in Way to suit the caprice OF
the wearer, and hiss frequently embroid-
cred upon it the Implements of the game
Paris correspondents speak Of our old
acquaintance, the polonase, coming in
new guise, especially favorite of young
girls. The revival is under the title Of
ordinary dress, worn over c petticoat of
the same fabric, on which it is slightly
very slightly-drsped; the blouse is worn
with belt, is SHRED a. the neck to de-
fine round yoke, and is shirred sgain
toward the wsist The sleeves are quite
fun, hslf-long, and gathered ST the arm
hole: band of Bulgarian gsiloon, en-
broidered in colored silks blended with
gold or silver, is around the armhole and
on the wristbsnd, snd similar gslloon is
used for the belt. Such costumes are
made Of bsrege, yelling, English Grape
and crepeline for young girls evening
toilettes.
TWO DRESSES.
Two pretty low waists are used fol
guimpe dresses of lawn, betiste OF
Bingham for girls from five years upward
One of these is cut off at the top, straight
ecross under the arms, and is pointed s.
the waist line in front. a wide bsnd OF
Tour or five folds is sewed across each
side OF the top serving IS shoulder straps
and sleeves arc dispersed with. This j:
L, {Eey In blue Chambery with red square:
wrought in it, and the neck and waist
corded with red The other wsis
is gathered half high on the
shoulders IN front and back, leaving
space open from the neck K
Inc oelt, snd is agein shirred next tht
belt. The edges next the opening may be
simply hemmed, or else edged with seal
Hoped embroidery. The sleeves are s
short full puff gathered to q band. Thc
guimpe is laid in very fire tuckS in clus-