St. Paul daily globe., 1887-04-09
THE BUSTLE A BLESSING.
And the Corset Conducive to Health
and Happiness.
A Lady PLY sician Who Ridicules the
So-Called Sensible Garments.

a maiden of the same kind, both in full
walking costume, were to start from the
Knickerbocker Club house on Fifth avenue
and race down to Delmonico'S, which one
would VIM" was the question put by a
prominent lady physician of New York to
y group of people who were talking about
dress reforms, the derided skirt and kindred
sopics the other day.
Every one present gave up the conun-
drum, but they all agreed with the originator
Of it when she declared that the girl, not
withstanding her veil, her close fitting gown,
her hustle and her muff. would win against
the youth with his hat likely to fly off at the
first rush. his collar choking him so that he
could not see. his heavy cane, his tight boots
and his wide trousers tapping about his
ankles. Those who have any other idea
should test it by trial.
Dress refOrmp exclaimed the lrate little
physician, who has gained reputation as
tme OF the best practitioners in the city.
1.-The truth of the matter is that most
women dress with as much regard to the
laws of health as do the men. The former
have reformed, the latter are degenerating.
or how else do you account for the pointed
Shoes the stays. the high collars and the
stove pipe hats that men wear? If woman
in general is not so healthy as man. it is not
on account of her clothes, of that l feel GER
tain. But l am of the opinion that the
women of New York are twice as healthy
as the men.
''Go to the opera, to any church or as
semblv. What do you see? Men Sallow
and lean: men bald-headed and pasty-look
ing, or men so stout and unwieldy, so red
and uncomfortable-looking that it makes
one uncomfortable to look at them. But
YOU see five women out of every ten rosy
and plump erect in carriage, bright Of eye.
and altogether charmingly healthy. These
are the so-called fashionable women, whom
Lady Habberton, Elizabeth Cady Stanton.
Mrs Miller. and a dozen other reformerS
are constantly crying down as running the
future race and their own healthn'
The little physician had become quite
worked up on the subject and as her dark
brown eyes flashed and her face flushed she
looked very handsome and as though the
modern dress of woman had not in any way
injured her. To have a woman physician
uphold the present fashions is something of
novelty.
"Of course there are many articles of
wearing apparel that could be improved" ;"
she continued" but the corsets, the hustle
and skirts against which the reformers and
men are constantly crying out, are real bles-
sings if only used properly, and the majority
of women nowadays know how TO wear
them. Twenty or thirty years ago it was
different. Eighteen-inch waists were con-
sidered necessary Tor beauty, slippers were
worn on all occasions, or shoes with paste
board soleS and the enormous head-dresses
and bonnets were something atrocious."
How do the women of to-day dress bet
ter than their mothers and grandmothers?n
queried q reporter present
Well" said the little physician, ''there
is no reason why l should not be plain. In
the tlrSt place. the old-fashioned chemiSe
with its multitude of gathers. has gone en-
tirely out of fashion. Women who wear
the garment at all have it made in the
French fashion, with cores and seams, and
as consequence the corset, which is worn
next to it, does not press the gathers and
wrinkles about the waist and hips. But the
majority of women wear the little gauze,
flannel, cashmere or silk vests, which have
come in Of late years and are woven to tit
the form, while not at all hampering it.
For winter wear there are the combination
garments of flannel made all in one piece,
and clothing one from neck to ankles most
comfortably.
mo, l will not admit that the corset CT
Itself is injurious" said the lady, most er-
ergetically. Brandy is injurious if one
takes too much of it, but it is excellent in
many eases. So it is with the corset If
of the proper kind and worn properly it is
one Of the greatest b0ons to wOmankind.
The steel-ribbed corsetS worn by some few
| will admit are quite dreadful; but the
woven and what is known as the health
corset are most desirable. They are so yield
ing that they fit the form, and yet support
and protect it. They are provided with
Oh Jar-c t,all nj hn cl- rtS ha
fastened to them. or to one of the new skIt
supporters worn over them. If woman
laces she generally suffers for her folly, as
men do from smoking or drinking. Bur
very few women lace nowadays. 1t is II,
the fashion to have an abnOrmally small
waist, and l don't think it will be-
''But you must admit that the hustle is a
most injurious and unhealthful article Of
wearing apparel said a gentleman who
was present.
.Oh. no, neverw she exclaimed. ''Bustles
are the salvation of many women. Men
have such erroneous ideas of many things
l should have been dead years ago if it had
not been for my Dustle. You can laugh, but
Just let me convince you.
You will admit that ten men to every
one woman dies of some disease of the kid
ney or liver. Yes? Well, then women
keeping them free of such trouble How?
The hustle of wire. or steel, or of any of the
light, airy materials of which it is now
made. worn under the skirts, keeps the
small of the back from becoming too heated
and consequently the circulation is better
and the kidneys and liver healthier. The
hustle also supports the skirts and holds the
dress in such a fashion that walking and
running are made easier"
The physician assured the reporter that
few women wear more than two underskirts
at this season of the year. '.Our grand
mothers wore four and five, some of them
of quilted flannel. too, so we have reformed
III that matter"
''But of what value are the bonnets and
hats worn by women?" said the gentleman
who ran down the blstle. ''They are
trumpery little things of lace and ribbon.
and no protection whatever"
go look in the mirror and see what your
sensible hat that fits the head and keeps
out the air. has done for you," exclaimed
the stern lecturer. The gentleman oEeyed
and saw head quite bald.
"a hat or bonnet should be an ornament
not a protection. The hair is the natural
covering for the head Women realize this
and keep their hair. Men go about puffed
up with the Importance of their superiority
in wearing sensible hats and get bald be-
fore they are 40; then they say it is brain
work that doesit!'
The bald-headed gentleman looked some
what mortified, but ventured a mild protest
and asked if the Habberton divided skirts
were not really more healthful than petit
coats. But this the little physician would
not admit.
1.-The costumes advocated by most dress
fnement to wear. Even the Greek gown
unless greatly modified would be a burden