Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1887-09-22
A TRAMP NEAR.NIAGARA.


With the American, pedestrianism
has become almost as favorite mode
of exercise as with his English cousin.
One of the finest autumnal tramps this
country affords is walk up the gorge
of the Niagara. No tour afoot in the
Swiss Alps is more exhilarating. On
the one hand are the organ tones of
the turbulent river; on the other, the
steep, weather-beaten cliffs, shaggy
with forest trees, and of appalling
height; and the cloud-embosomed form
of Canada's hero follows the retreatino
footsteps, as if, weary of the vague
isolation of the higher atmosphere, he
would fain keep companionship with
humanity below.
The whole series of rock strata COM
posing the sides Of the gorge is laid
bare up the perpendicular American
bank, like the layers of 4 well-reou-
lated jelly-cake. A study of this rocky
wall in the course of a walk from Lew
iston to uspenson-bridge not only
shows the varying thickness of the diff
ferent strata, but gives a clear idea of
the nature OF the erosive process by
which, according to recent surveys,
portions of the cataract recede at the
rate of three feet year. Hard LAYERS
of the Niagara and Clinton limestone
alternate with the soft shales of the
names. Beginning at Lewiston as a
narrow strip, the upper stratum of
Niagara limestone increases in thick
ness to the falls. Here the mighty
force of the cataract constantly washes
away the foundation of soft shale on
which the limestone rests, and thus
undermined, the hard upper rock
breaks off.
The narrow road by which pedes-
trians descend from Lewiston escarp-
ment pursues winding, zigzag course,
its passage broken by two secondary
terraces. Along this steep precipice,
described by Charlevois and Pouchot
in their memoirs as though it were one
of the most difficult passes in the Alps,
was visible, until recently, the remains
of an old tramway, 1.-the first railroad
in America" In the days when Lew
iston and her neighbors over the river
were f1ourishing trading posts, here
began the portage around the falls.
At this point all the goods in process
of transportation between the lakes
underwent trans-shipment. The heavy
bales were raised and lowered on a
sliding car and cradle moved on an
inclined plane by windlass. Up and
down this narrow defle passed a mot
ley procession of European traders,
Americans and Indians. To the sstrois
montaignes" came Father Hennepin,
his portable chapel on his back, and
with him that bold adventurer who
threatened to make 1.-the griffon fly
above the crows" for while there is
nothing in these decaying river towns
to recall the fact, we are actually in
the neighborhood that witnessed the
birth of Americas magnificent inland
commerce.
The walk up the gorge is made
easier by leaving the train where the
engine slows up this side of the noun
tain. Near by are the exposed found
alton and anchors of the old Suspen-
sion-bridge. The remnants of it's
heavy cables flap and sway across the
gorge between Lewiston and Queens
ton like an empty clothes-line. At ou1
left is a tunnel cut through the side of
the rock. 1t looks like ruined arch;
but although the surrounding country
is rich in tradition and history, the
banks of the Niagara are not crowned
with castles. Some one i'll the party
that Mr.. Benson j. Loss
ing has sketch of it in the Pictorial
Field Book, and it is we'll to say here
a preliminary reading of this careful
historian vastly enhances the enjoy
ment of a tramp through the battle
country of the war of 1872
Near the DEVILS Hole, where the
railway goes into the mountain, we
leave the track and mount the ridge.
From the top of the cliff overlooking
this awful chasm is another sweeping
view Of the river north and south.
Peering down into the depths of the
leafy gulf, it seems almost impossible
to conceive in the sylvan calm of this
peaceful ferny solitude that it could
once have been the scene of murder
Gus ambuscade.
Passing the squatter sovereignty at
Suspension-bridge, and pausing mid
way on the hanging yiaduct, we have
full view of the wonderful and many
times described Niagara Gorge. Great
white gulls are circling over the mar
row rOck-bOund chasm, in the bed OF
which flows the emerald-green river.
The perpendicular cliffs. three hun
dred feet high, through which the
stream makes its tempestuous passage,
are still clad in the fading russell tints
Of NAPLES and elms, among which the
severe outlines of tall pines stand forth
like black priests, mounting the gorge,
up and up in solemn file, carrying us
back into that remote past when first
the Jesuit fathers visited the nation
which gave to the river, on either side
of which its camp fires burned, its
musical name.
Crossing the bridge, we witness at
the Whirlpool Oh the Canada side ''the
eliminating act of the Niagara drama.
Little known, and less appreciated by
the generality of travellers, to the think
Ell the Whirlpool is the most fascinat-
ing spot along the river. more awful
in the mysterious swirl of its waters
and in the eternity of ages its past in
wolves than the cataract itself. Com
pressed within these limits is the
drainage of half continent. Two of
tho th1.aa sides ara Sfppp rocky prpci-