Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1887-09-16
NEW PARTISAN STYLES.
Wraps and whlte-Wool Toilets for the
Warm Days of Early Fall.

Warm Days of Early Fall.
To judge by the models which modis-
ties are now engaged in preparing for
the autumn and winter, wrappings bid
fair to be rs varied the coming season
as they were last year. They will be
worn long or short according to the
demands of the occasions; long for the
carriage, and for general wear by
ladies no longer young; short for visits
for walking, and for day wear by
young ladies, Long cloaks are made
of wooden, plain, or in very fine stripes,
or almost imperceptible checks. The
cloth is never heavy the woolens are
supple and comparatively light. A
touch of fancy is displayed in long
mantlcs of tartan plaid in dark sub
dued soft colors. Their shape is simple,
the fronts falling straight, held only
at the neck by clasp of metal or pas
sementerie, the back sometimes plated
at the waist under belt which stops
short under the arms; frequently
cape is added, sometimes a hood; the
sleeves, which are rolled under, are
rather wide, and gathered at the arm
hole and wrist.
Short wraps, when intended to be
worn in the morning or destined fol
young girls, are almost always made of
plain cloth, or furrcd cloth, or coarse
wooden, thick and warm They are
made in any one of the numbcrless
jacket shapes, with or without cape
of the same material, which does not
reach farther than the elbow; the cape
may or may not have hood; the hood
is always pointed. The jacket is inva-
riably adjusted, and is usually some
what long, or is heightened by flat
basques set under the curved lower
edges of the front and back. Some
times the basque is ornamented with
embroidery or passementerie, which
does not reappear in any other part of
the jacket; never is there any trim
ming on the lower edge, unless it is
the merest edging of braid.
Some of the jackets assume 4 military
character, with their decorations of
braudebourgs, olives and fouragercs or
shoulder ornaments.
Jackets, whatever their shape, are
worn by all ladies in general with
morning toilets, and by young girls at
all hours of tie day. With the short
mantle wraps it is different; these are
not worn at all by young girls; ladies
of all ages wear them, in all degrees of
elegance, for visiting and fer after
moons. Some of these are so extremely
rich as to be unsuitable for the street,
and are only worn in the carriage.
These are of Gcnoesc velvet in rich,
| dark shades, sometimes embroidered
with gold or trimmed with passc-
menterie in which there is gold, almost
all are trimmed with lace. Their
shape is combination of mantilla and
visite, with sleeves forming part of the
back, and short tab fronts, the tabs cut
square or pointed.
The polonaise, never entirely aban-
doned, has been revived under the
title OF blouse, and is much worn, more
especially by young ladies' and girls.
To describe it generally, it is a dress,
shorter than an ordinary dress, worn
over II petticoat of the same fabric, on
which it is slightly-very slightly
draped The blouse is worn with n
belt is shirred>at the neck to define n
round yoke, and shirred again toward
the waist, The sleeves are quite full,
half-long, and gathered at the armhole.
A band of Bulgarian galloon, em-
broidercd in colored silks blended with
gold or silver, is around the armhole
and on the wristband, and similar gal
loon is used for the belt. Such cos
TUNES arc made of baregc, yelling,
English crepe and crepeline for young
girls evening toilets.
White has been taken up with so
much feryor this summer that it will
be most reluctantly abandoned in the
autumn, and dresses are now being
planned in which n polonaise or blouse
of white wool, thick but supple, is worn
over skirt of colored cloth in such
colors as hussar blue, hazel and al
mond-shell. The skirt Is braided with
soutachc, which is optionally but fire.
quently mingled with tarnished gold;
the same braiding is ON the polonaise.
1t will bo readily understood that such
dresses are not intended TO be worn ON
city streets, but in the carriage in
Paris. and at country houses and water
ing-places at the end of the season.
Sometimes, TO make q gradual transit
ton between the colors and avoid q
harsh contrast, the cloth skirt, the
whole or part, is yelled with coarse
naaChn1 tNyina MT Paris IpI'eY-