The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1887-10-14
STYLISH TRIMMINGS.
Hints That viii Help Ladies' In the Selec.
tion OF Early Winter Dresses.

Hints That viii Help Ladies' In the Selec-
tion OF Early Winter Dresses.
Apropos of the prevailing styles Of
sleeves. it has been said that they are
certainly large enough for any heart
to be worn upon. Arms which a little
while ago were encascd in sleeves so
tight that an upward movement was
decidedly uncomfortable. are now pic.
turesque or at ease in the bishop or
some other fancifully pulled style. The
full puff extending from below the ell
bow to the shoulder is usually held in
by ribbon, braid or band of passemen-
teric, which combining section some wit
has dubbed ..the Order of the Garter.
For tailor suits the coat sleeve obtains,
but for all other styles there is a de-
cided liking for the more elaborate ar
rangements.
On the cuffs that are frequently a
part of these sleeves fanciful decOra-
tons are good form. and gold. silver
or oriental embroidery, coarse lace or
ribbon arranged in stripe fashion. may
be used. rs most in harmony with the
style of the gown. A sleeve that is
gracefully full. without the extrava-
gance of the bishop shape. has its cuff
covered with black and silver passe-
mcm!crie, the material being black
serge. A sleeve of white nun's-vailins
has its large puff divided by rows of
stirring, and over these is u band OF
fiat silver braid about an inch wide;
while the close-fitting portion below
the puff is decorated with row after
row of silver soutache. An otherwise
simple bodice may be made to appear
quite elaborate by the style of the
sleeves. and as fancy sleeve is much
easier to fit than one in plain coat
shape. the desirability of the former is
easily appreciated.
The disposition of the bodice trim
ming really means that of the gown.
for on the smartest costumes the only
skirt decoration is provided by the
arrangement of the draperies. Fine
passementerie formed by braid joined
by lace stitches sometimes called braid
trimming) comes i'm sets comprising
V-shaped sections for the bodice, II
high collar and deep cuffs. The V
sections are very brOard at the top and
narrow gradually to point. The de-
sign is usually made mp of curves and
curls-the indescribable one known as
arabesque. In all the shades of gray.
mauvc. tan, sage, red. navy and Lin
coin. as well as in black-and-silver and
plain black, these sets are noted and
approved. A tan-colored cashmere is
made with plain skirt over which the
drapery falls in long, graceful lines.
The tablier is plated ut the top and
draped to fall in straight line Oh one
side and curve upward gracefully
nearly to the belt on the other. In the
back the drapery is 5om6ant, loored in
po,f fashion. and reaches to the edge Of
the skirt at the center. The bodice is
we'll fitted position; Vshaped or
nament of tan 3assemeH.erie is securely
stoned at one side. and, after the
bodice is buttoned, is hooked to posi-
ton covering almost the entire front.
The high collar is hidden under the
same trimming. and the pulled sleeve
has its cuff similarly elaborated. A
fold Of ccrm ribbon is the neck finish.
and the pretty tan-colored gloves of
undressed kid are drawn well up under
the cuffs The hat is soft felt in a
dark shade of tan trimmed with
flowers that are still darker. The air
of this toilette is decidedly good and is
certain to be approved by even the
most captious of critics.
Jets we have always with us, but it
is only the full;l!mcnt of our own de-
sres. Their flash and glitter endear
them to the feminine fancy. and jet or
| naments seem one of the few frivOls
that receive the approval of men. But
there are Jets and jets. Some of the
decorative adjuncts are entirely of jet,
while others show combinations. the
favorites being jet and steel. jet and
amber and jet and "Job's tears. ="
Jobs tears" by the by, are the latest
novelty in the bead world; they are
small gray berries that are found i'll the
West Indies. and their shade has an
especial vogue just now. The ''tears"
are combined. and very appropriately
with jet and also with steel beads. tn
latter association being as effective as
the former and the air less mOurnfuL
The contras. between the hard wood en-
look of the berry and the glistening
steel is very pleasing.
Epaulettes are often included in set
of bead garnitures. but their use pre-
supposes plain sleeve. The fish
net" pattern is preferred for them. and
long pendants, not unlike sharks teeth
in shape, form fringe that falls upon
the arm. Some epaulette ornaments are
seen composed of "Job's tears" alone,
and others in which these berries are
alternated with round jet beads, the
fringe being jet pendants. A very
smart set consists If plastron. epau-
lettes and collar made Of tinely-cut
steel beads and "Job's tears. The
plastron is a short V in shape and is
formed of the Jet beads closely strung
together. a gray berry being placed
exactly in the center. The long pend
ants that outline the shape are OF
sharply cut steel. The same close eff
feet is preserved in the collar. and a
row of the tears" is arranged along
the top.-Butterics's Delineasor.
|
John Monroe Driver. a well-to-do
younU farmer Of Stockton, CAL, with