New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-10-16
WOMAN'S DRESS.
WHAT WILL BE WORN IN NEw-YoaK
coLoKs AND sHApEs-THE NEw FURs.

arc the characteristics OF the street dress Wraps
for street made OF cloths OF exquisitey fine
quality, while the ier materials OF plush and velvet
are shown for carriage reception and opera wear
Cloth cloaks rch "dressy" garments this season.
There fancy OF cloth and cloths figured
In geomctric patterns. but hne smoothfaced ladies'
cloths or habit cloths the first choice These wraps
are always long, reaching 10 the bottom OF the dress or
simply showing the bordering FILL tho edge Of the
skirt Rich dark tones OF color preferred to black
for these long wraps. but fur trimmings usually
black and the elaborate wide passementeric bands Of
twisted silk cord always black. toning down tho
color which might undue prominence. The cloth
wrap Stimulates tailor costume OF cloth In effect and so
completely the dress that the simplest gown may
he worn beneath It, Often the trimming Is put on sinu
ting short wrap reaching just below tho waist. or 1t
is mere shoulder cape with epIulets formed OF melted
cord OF silk passtmenterie Mahogany red dark plum
color, yeux blue and mousse very pronounced
shade. tho cloth eoors and Gobelin blue
and graysh reseda also shown in cloth coaks
There are lovely shades OF gray ranging from pale
slvery gray 10 the darkest tones antique silver Is
color but shade Off from black but eIcee lingly beau
full In contrast with black trimming Brown cloths In all
shades except brown shown in wraps and are
always trimmed with back-a combination Of color now
considered very Stylish though few seasons since be-
fore golden browns extensively introduced these
two colors never used together.
A few wraps arc shown trimmed with bands
OF ostrich feathers, but furs ,of various kinds
including black bear. black raccoon. black fox
and long ncecy furs generally preferred
Quilted Innings OF gay striped satin. or satin in
dark sha ie OF coor like brown crimson, are.
used 10 give warmth TO the cloth To Increase
the resemblance OF the wrap street gown the fur
trimming Is sometimes put in the form OF long boa
with hanging ends. or IN the shape OF a fur stole.
In all these wraps 1T closely to the figure at the
back and quite boufnt over the ournurc but they
be n O
trimming all used length wise lines never As Dor
der at tho bottom. AMI this has tendency to ave adj
dOna he ght aad well adapted 10 conceal defects In
the Iigurc OF woman. when the plump beauty OF
youth becomes the hateful cmbOnpOint OF middle age
Three distinctive varieties OF sleeve shown in these
wraps The stylish IS loose coat sleeve 10 TIE
elbow and arranged to now thence into square largo
sleeve and is called BY merchants the Pingat sleeve.
There plain coat sleeves and square nnn sleeves
coming from the middle forms at the back or from tho
side seams giving tho garment the shape OF an Oriental
dolman. come beautiful wraps In Antique sIyergray
cloth are trimmed bands OF the soft gray fur called
biuefoX The trimming up ethcrside OF the back
where the wraps usually LETT open 10 the waist to allow
for the tournu-e and again passes mp AMI down either
side OF the front Two wide binls OF black cord woven
In arabesquc pattern extend up either side OF the
front aud down the back OF the waist meeting tn point
at the tournurc
Jackets braided in elaborate patterns shown in
medium length garments worn They arc so extremely
ungrnceful that 1t Is probable they will ever be
generally dGaln Drcssy cloth coaks OF nnc Cloths
luxuriOusy lined with satins ana trimmed Win iurs
range IN price the shops from 500 upward. some
beautiful wraps faced with silk and trimmed with hand
some furs $50 There elaborate cloth coaks sod
at shops a, costly as $3.50 and sl75 These wraps.
though they costly really street gown anu
wrap In one a. they long that they obvate the
necessity % special gown. II SAID that they
Will take tho place OF the street gown Of CLOTH which
has been lie rrr with fashionable people the prom
cpaIc
short braided Jackets range in price from $50 upward.
There ara plainly braided Jackets At SD Good stylish
NewmAiksts are sold ready made from So to $40
each according 10 the shop AMI material
A pretty stylish Newmarkot OF English cloth
with the long cape OF tho seaion Is soi al 30
There plain Newmarkes OF American coths a. low
az sl9 aud SIS at some shop but 1t extremely dncut
n ind garments that lifted with any ski among
these priced wraps: they do not bear close inspection
aud tho button holes usually roughly finished b.
machine.
For some unexplained reason tho coat which man
pays ~ FOR tho house OF dealer In ready m lde
clothing j. well made and finely finished with handsome
dnndc button holes while the jacket OF lady az the
same price often finished with button holes male by
machine generally Inferior In finish 10 the man
garment aAys garment At this price Is seldom lined
or II IL is this done such slpshol manner "a 10
suggest Job lots" The same ~ true or chiIdrens
clotheA good. plain boys suit Of American hanuel
well made and finished with hand worked button holes,
can be purchased at So n suit OF similar workman
ship Just ~ simply maIo for little girl costs
often $40 The taors sailor kilt suit for boys IS almost
the same In cut as n girl, sailor suiso much so that
mothers often buy the boys suit for the girs because OF
the superior workmanship on H. There arc dresses Tor
S6 for little girls but they finished In the most care
less manner with rough and machine button
hole, II Il clear ariom that tho demand creates the
market. and uu,il women pay moro attention to tho
details OF finish AMI quality the cheaper reaiymade
wraps will be finished they now are. or tho fa'ud-
ous customer viii be charged an extra prco Tor wraps
aud gowns ~ well made as mans
MuFFs. BoAs AND sroLEs.
Long haired furs have almost superseded the short
uckcd furs for trim nngs aud sets An Immense va
rcty OF furs AT the merchants counters one
dealer who docs not keep exclusive stock OF tuFs
numbers sixty-thrcc different kinds OF hr nuns alone
Ihe variety IN natural fox fur Is very great ihcuiIhS
the Arctic fox. whose fleece becomes IA sot' as tho
down OF the elder duck AMI blsache3 snow-white In
the long cold and darkness Of the Polar night tho silver
fox whose line skins are kept for tho royal family OF
Russia make the costly black fox when Is formed
from the single bac strip in the BACK or tho SILVER loN
the Vermont rel fox with fleece ~ brilliantly red -
the ,rcs,e, OF Titan blonde the cross FOX and the
common tawny fox Of orr forcs's. \ great deal
x
the white fox Blue FOX another dyed fur ani this IS
sometimes artidcillly tppeI "a white Natural lynx
and black lynx are both extensively used. cream
lynx Is the natural FUR dyed golden
hue with the .aureoIe" OF tho hiiriresser.
Natural nartcn. brown martcn. cream mlrten. ar;
all very pop liar The narten WIS formerly called Alas
k, sable but "a not often known by tho moro familiar
farm house name OF ",Sunk" This fur must be deodor
lied with the greatest or will give out an unpIeas
ant oIor when tho brings 1t into heated room
tits beautiful FUR and when bought OF trustworthy
dealer u always thoroughly deOlorizrd
Muns or small and stocs are tho fashionable
shapes In fur There few handsome NUTS aud pei
crimes or stoles made Of the costly fur Of the Rus
sian sable and Of sable tails. Sets OF sable
winch in oil times worth 800 are now sold at
~ 300 and go Pelerne capcs mads OF sable tails
marvels OF the fur sewers art each tiny tail must DO
split and se y strong kid TO make the desired shape
All furs when painted gray by nature acquire an In.
creased value is new fur similar TO chinchilla
in appearance which comes from Russia II used AS