Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-07-01
Critical Mel and Intellectual Women
Have No liberation for H.
Fitting Gowns,
Arrangement of the TourDure, Sashes,
Belts and Girdlss-T0ilets
Of he Baby.
aood Bread and Good Meat are Moral
fsts' Preaching 20 the
Wise,


not altogether honest. Doubtless in her
heart Of hearts size felt tina: SIX end
s2tius are fCr aDv wCnl2E Wa0 Csn attain
them, and the lover who promises the
rustic maid that she shall walk il silk
attire IS apt to be the successful aspir-
ant. Again it was true, in the sense that
/ for simple maiden these rich and rare
stuffS were not in harmony with her girl
ism grace and simplicity.
It il not often the men 60 enVying
women, but just now i the season when
woman can excite such feeling, for
however the mau may fal he still swell
tiers IN heavy cloth. and MS lair com
panior in lace and null at least looks eX-
asperatingiy cool.
This season may be emphaticGliy con-
s1dered the lace season, lace in white OF
black, or of both beieg considered al a0-
solute demand tor s summer dresg.
Black grenadine, another thin fabric is
growing in favor, and manufacturers have
met the popular demand by new
ana tasteful designs, producing very rich
effects By different weaves, some Of which
give lace like appearance 70 the fabrics.
These, however, like the silks ana sstins,
may not be for "me," but for every one
are the satines, lawns, giagnam5 and
chanbreys.
There is but one thing impeTsuVely de-
handed, and that is woman must dress
beC0mingly; fashion comedies so her the
right to adapt her style Of dress to her
fsCc ard figure, and expects no absuTdi-
ties. Because she reads that Greek is
the form il is not expected that 3 saort
pudgy woman viii adopt flowing draper
les, cOnhne thirty inch waist by @ silver
girdle such IS Sarah Bernhsrdt wears, or
expose red, pimply arms OF extra proper
zion by wearing long, full sleeves open to
the shoulders. Although high bOnnets are
fashionable, no won Il who COnsultS her
mirror viii place such e superstructure
above narrow, long face, neither, If her
face be round will she wear fat hat
WITCH, with such surrounding, cannot
fol 70 look ridiculous in spite OF the
imUliug good nature that reyels there.
Another hint 20 The woman who strives 80
make herself charming nay not be ami5s.
Trimmings a:e not Indispensable to good
dress, and it is more in keeping with tie
refined instincts OF woman thea the dress
be o. GOOD material vita little ornament
ard that Of the best, than G cd3&2 fsbrlc
loaded with snowy OrEsmeltGuOn.
The study Of the becoming is not IN
worthy CT any woman; il is her privilege
60 repd2C herself charming, and when she
DIeasea ger own talcieS she is apt TO
NEE ne approval Of those she desires 30
6 .inate. Inen the seIf-SatisfaCtiOn q
well-drcssed woman feels renders her
smiable, and consciousness that her
costume is becoming makes her manner
in society easy and winning.
One of the necessities for ali women
seems to be the tournure, and il is
cause OF much veXation, for with all the
patent adjustable arrangements it "aft
gangs aglee,n presenting to the spectator
some very One-sided effects Perhaps
the s,eels with small horse-hair cushion
is the most satisfactory arrangement. The
June number OF Dem0rest gives
some directions tor using these that may
be of service 10 the home dressmsker.
They are as follows: "There are various
methods Of arranging these steeIs, and
from two to five are used, according TO
the height Of the person and the amount
OF protubeTanCy desired, and the lengths
vary as much as the numbers. Ia some
imported dresses, the lower steel meas
urcs one yard in length, and is placed
about twelve or fifteen inches from the
bottom Of the skirt, and there are either
three or four above; in others there
are only two, Of medium length. For
those desiring only g moderate tour
nure the latest and most effective arrange
ment is as follows: Two steeIs are re-
CURED, one measuring twenty-seven and
the other thirty inches in length. To &C
COmmOdate these, two castings are seWed
across the back breadth end side cores,
commencing twelve inches back on each
side from the middle of the front; the
upper casing seven inches below the belt
IN the middle Of the back, and eight inch
es at the ends, and the lower casing Just
The same distance below the upper one.
After the stees are inserted, the fullness
on them is 10 be pushed back five inches
from each end, and secured so that il
cannot slip forward; end on the inside OF
the skirt, where the fuline5s is secured,
taoes ere 20 be SeRed those
on ore side eISstiC-to be tied behind the
figure to re ain tie steels 81 the desired
size. In order TO have the skirt hang
properly with this arrangement, it is
necessary that II should be cut two and
one. half inches longer in back than in
front. The increased length Of the steels
does not necessarily give an increased
size TO the tournure; out by sewing the
inner tapes back from the ends, the ends
of the steels are allowed to rest flatly
against the sides OF the figure, instead of
being curved in and presenting the
unsightly appearance with which we had
become only too familiar. Above the
steels, pad OF horsehsir can be added
to the skirt, or separate hustle may be
worn.
Next to the lace dress comes the white
wool of light weight, which in walking
dresses barely clears the ground q little
longer than has been worn. For the sake
of neatneSs broad band of velvet or sew
ersl rows of narrow braid ore used for
trimming the bottom. Have the over
dress long and caught up high, trimmed
or not. The basque must be short and
iaunty, and if there is any doubt about the
harmony of mateTisl anC complexion use |
yoke or vest Of dark velvet, keeping the |
white away from the face little. If the
figure is slight, have regular velvet vest !
with q cut2WGy jacket OF white made with !
q rolling collsr and enc buttonhole. Com !
piete the outfit with rustic straw hat |
trimmed with field flowers, suede gloves |
and low shoes. The gloves and hose |
must be the color of the material used in !
trimming.
Ssshes and belts grow in popularity Is |
the warm season advances. Wide |
sashes ere tied loosely around slender |!
waists (onlY slender onss), and kept in |
place by ieweled pins thrust here and |
there in zoe folds. Sometimes wide sash |
ribbon is attached 30 the side seams, not |
fol M Il NFlf mid