Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1887-04-29

| founces of green taffetas, each founce about
| two or three inches wide. The tunic, very
| gracefully draped, shows the entire left side
| of the skirt and furnishes a tablier and a
| straight pouf behind. The corsage is opened
| over a plastron of taffetas pleated like a
| fchu with pinked edges. This plastron
| drapes the corssge and shows in the opening
| of the neck right near the collar an inserted
piece of white embroidery; the same embroi-
| derry is used for the collar and for the cuffs
on the sleeves. Another model trimmed in
the same way has the skirt Of French blue
and mastic colored Sieilienne The entire
| skirt is covered with pinked dounces of blue
| Sicilienne, and under each of these hounces
| is seen an edge of the mastic colored Sici-
lienne also pinked. Many charming effects
may be obtained by the employ of this kind
of trimming. Pretty little jackets having
three edges arranged one over the other, and
falling over velvet vest etc., are extremely
becoming. The horse show which has just
taken place here has been the occasion for
the display of many stylish walking toilets.
Plaid skirts, but in quiet and tasteful tints,
were seen in great number in such shades as
cream, corn color and beige, heliotrope and
mauve, or pistache mousse and light green.
Over these plaid skirts are seen scarfs of
plain crepoD, chosen to match either the
darkest or lightest shades seen in the plaid
with stole-shaped ends falling from the sides
and the back, and fringed with passemente-
II
of plain cloth, sewn with round loops to
match the passementerie on the scarf, usual
ly completes this style of toilette. Charm
ing also are the plain striped skirts in peau
de sole, with panel of beaded jet and worn
with lovely garment half pelerine, half Wis
ite, made of velvet, lace and jet. There are
also very pretty striped skirts where the col
or Of Russian blue predoninates, together
with old green, orange red and brown. Po-
1onaises are also made in plain shades and
are caught up very high, over founces with
striped checks or seven with flowers.
Among the many lovely toilettes seen during
the show two attracted particular attention;
one of heliotrope moire had draperies of the
same shade in a woolly sort of etamine and
a jacket of heliotrope cloth, braided with
heliotrope and silver. With this was worn
capote of pale pink tulle trimmed with pink
hyacinths and silver corn flowers. The other
toilette was of plaid faille in Russian blue,
silver gray and lake blue, placed on the bias,
on panels of Russian blue peau de sole;
these panels were seven with blue jet balls.
Four panels were seen under the SKIRT which
is draped behind in a pouf The Figaro
jacket of peau de sole, over chemisette of
the plaid, was trimmed with jet on the
shoulders and around the armholes and the
entire contour of the little jacket. The ca
pote of blue tule was covered with small
blue straw dots and trimmed with gold
blades and blue corn flowers. Heliotrope is
very much used just now, and a costume in
this color is very pretty made with pointed
draperies and wide, handsomely braided
pleats, braided in heliotrope and in gold.
The bonnet has the crown braided and is
trimmed with two shades of ribbon in the
front. The sunshade also matches the rest
of the costume, and is even braided like the
skirt of the dress. very charming toilette
for young girl is made of mixture of
plain etamine and of yelling checked with
| fine velvet stripes The sides of the skirt
are of the fancy material pleated in panels,
while the plain etamine forms the draperies,
the back and the sleeves of the corsage; the
front being of the checked yelling, arranged
the taste of the wearer. This young and
pretty costume may be made in gray, black,
white, etc. Made in tbs shade known as tel
egraph blue, it is especially pretty with the
front of the corsage in white crepe de chine
and the skirt pleated all round with drape-
ry of plain material behind. Lovely toilets
of heliotrope bengaline, trimmed with pleat-
ed panels having wide stripes of velvet in
graded and suitable shades, are also seen.
The striped materials are also used for cor
sage trimmings and for the sleeves.
Jackets are more worn this season than
ever before, and few are seen now made of
plain cloth, either black or colored and with
| out any trimming; almost all the jackets
| seen now of plain cloth are handsomely
| trimmed. A pretty model is made in squir-
/ rel gray cloth and is trimmed with black
| mohair braid about two inches wide. The
| jacket is hooked straight down the front,
which is trimmed with the braid; this braid
| is laid in bands down the fronts and these
| bands grow narrow as they reach the waist
and wider towards the neck and to-
| wards the foot of the jacket In
| the back only three bands are used, the mid
die one being the longest. Another model
| in pistache-colored cloth is trimmed with a
l in teri q
/ of several colors, mixed with strands of gold
| and silver. This lovely embroidery, about
| three inches wide, is placed on the front of
| the jacket, around the foot, on the sleeves
and at the neck. Another braided jacket
was of navy blue cloth, braided in militia
ry style with navy blue and gold More
simple jackets are made of cloth, and are
simply lined with pretty plaid surah.
Bonnets made entirely of flowers are the
| success of the season, and certainly nothing
can be fresher or prettier than bonnet
made entirely of violets with an aigrette of
| white lilacs, or one of primroses trimmed
| with white narcissus. Tiny hyacinths are
| also very lovely in a delicate blue and make
| charming capotes. Toques are also seen in
great numbers, and a pretty model has the
| brim shaped somewhat like crown, covered
entirely with black jet; the crown of this
| toque is made of white gauze, which forms
a trimming in front, mixed with which are
| large leaves of transparent jet. Many of the
hats worn during the revolutionary period
are coming in favor again. The ''Direc-
toire" hats are especially sought after, and
very becoming some of them are found.
Capotes of black lace are still the favorite
coiffures for half dressy occasions; one pret-
ty model is made of black lace and trimmed
with thick wreath of cowslips. Two other
capotes were also extremely pretty. One of
pale pink tulle was trimmed around the
edges with garland of moss roses, and the
other of white lace had a garland OF white
lilacs and green leaves. The ribbons this
season present the greatest variety, both in
material, color and design. Very lovely
gauze ribbons seen with stripes of faille,
satin or velvet. Wide plaid ribbons, like
those which were at one time only used for
children's sashes, are now seen in large bows
on the front and sides of hats. Checked
ribbons in subdued eolorings are also used
for hat trimmings.
| Parasols are made now as they were last
year in all the summer materials, principally
in figured foulard, batiste, satinette, etc.
The more elegant ones are those in thin silk,
plain or striped, in tussore, pongee and moire
under lace. Parasols in embroidered tulle,
point d'esprit, Spanish lace and black Chan
tiIly lace, arranged over silk, are always in
good taste and are always fashionable.
These are the usual and principal models,
but there are others extremely elegant and
coctly, which must be considered apart from
the others. One OF tnese paIaS0lS ls III ecru
lace, heavily embroidered and placed over
pink silk; the edge lie trimmed with thick
" gathered founce of lace, and this founce
is made of point d'esprit tuIle and striped
with narrow satin ribbon with picot edge.
A pompon of the same ribbon IS placed on
the top of the parasol, and the handle of
simple wood is finished off with carved sill
ver
Partisan women are growing fonder day by
dav of horseback riding, and the Bois de
Bouloene promises fair to find itself very
soon crowded by as many fair equestrians as
are seen in the lanes of Hyde Park in Lon
DON The skirts of riding habits are no"
made much shorter and more tight-httlng
than formerly and the high stiff hats are al
most universally worn, although the little
felt hats are more coquettish and becoming.
NINE. DEMOREST'S