Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-01-01
COSFUNES FOR COLD WEATHER.
Evening Dress and the DEVELOPMENT Of
American PhYvi0uc.

American FnyShquc.
The TRAGi-coAEDY OF TIE srAGE-sTKICK Young
woAsN-A NEW ISDUsTRY-A HAPPY THOUGHT IN
JET-THE NEW IRISH FLAX RMBRoTDEKrEs-THE
EENowsKD BAYRUx FAPEsTRIKs-HEKp OF ORGAN.
IzATIoN AMONG AMERICAN woHKs WORKERS.
From Our Own Correspondent.
NEW YORK, December 81.
Fashion has not lost its power to change the
aspect of our gowns and produce the alterations
OF style which would be considered revolutionary
n they were spoken OF as s'reform" and aggres-
siFely demanded. For example, the fiounces OF
the recent past have disappeared. Where have
they gone 10? Echo answers-no one knows
Skirts are certainly practical nowadays. Except
for formal occasions, they are cut walking length
Young girls do not wear trains at all. They are
panelled; they have trimmed and draped fronts
and sides and straight-or almost stratght-gath-
cred and plated backs, but no 1ounces. The edge
upon the front OF the skirt Is sometimes cut out
in squares over a thick, narrow plating; a great
deal OF plated silk and lace Is used for its interior
finish; but the plated part Is only observable as
lining and interior edgfng; not from the outside,
THE EVENING BODICE.
That IL Is a mere matter OF fashion and not OF
ethics Is shown by the gradual advance along the
same line and at the same time OF the lOw-necked
bodice, notwithsta nding the efforts OF what re-
manned OF the Puritan element among us TO check
its growth.
"Full" dress, or "evening" dress now means
here exactly what 10 means In London and Paris,
VIZ: low cut eorsage as wei as absence on ,ns
among American women during the past twenty
five years has doubtless had something TO do with
the Increased willingness TO display IT, There was
a time when they could have been divided into The
very fat and very lean. Better habits better dlet,
more exercise wider interests. more generous
living. are al pending to make American women
the youngest, for their age, and the handsomest
women in the world
his fS
actly adapted TO display 10 advantage the beauh-
lul arms and neck which 80 often distinguishes
american beauties by contrast with delicate, re-
with the fiounces have disappeared the fussy
rufhes puffings and other applied ornamentation
(Which was anything but OrnamentaD, formerly
used TO burden the neeks and waists OF pretty
evening gowns, and spoil The artistic form. Per-
haps they will all come back. There Is no GER
tafnty OF anything in this world not even leaving
II, but In the meantime let those who have good
figures and good dresses rejoice In the wel-propor-
toned unexaggerated bodice, curved down TO a
point, back and front deepening TO point at the
front OF the waist ana given just enough or fui-
ness at the back TO properly srmOUnt the 1ullne5s
OF the skirt and the graceful tOurnure. The FASH
ionable bodice Is not very low: t. comes up over
the shoulder and Is rather sharply outlined by the
frequently total absence OF projecting lace edge
the folds OF lace or tUlle either forming the bodice
or its upper part and thus laying next the skin or
rat upon the silken surface. leaving the edges
straight and plain test which only the fairest of
flesh can stand, but which certainly enhances its
STAGE STRUCK YOUNG WOMEN.
The world is very fair to young American women
where fathers are generous and ''well-to-dOr
they are very fair portion OF lit seems pity
that the charm OF IL should ever be destroyed Il
would give all have In the world" said a gentle
man, recently, "tO keep my daughter just as she
Is. She is the JOY OF Ey life; she has never known
fear, or a want; never done wroEs thing, always
been happy as a bird. She repavS Inc for all
have known of struggle and sacrifice in my life;
and TO think that may not be able TO save her
from heart break in the future" The girl was one
a
fOlds OF white, pale blue or amber tulle, dotted or
sprtgged with pearl. frosted silver or chenille;
made over silk or satin and mounted with ribbons
OF satin or ElOire in the most delicate tinto. Not
one seemed TO realize anything exceptional in the
pleasure or delights OF her daily surroundings;
their chat was OF actors and actresses, the last
matinee, the promised reading" ana their one
ambition 10 come before the pubic on the amateur
or professional stage. Ignorant OF the world and
unIried, they only realized tie luxury OF their lives
as obstacle 10 It's ambition.
III American fathers and mothers would preserve
their clever educated daughters from temptations
end disastrous marriages, they must be willing TO
give Jhem-lll,e their sons-an honorable object in
lie: not leave them 10 the mercy OF iIlgOyerned
inclination. II may be the mission OF the modern
American woman TO reform" The stage, but what
Is TO become of the UOHlat In The process"
The stage is d business and has ali 1t can do TO
take care OF Itself In the rapid whirl OF modern
events. IL cannot be expected be an '.iliStitu-
ton" Tor the care or those connected with il.
DELICATE CoLoRs.
The prevailing colors for dressy purposes are
very light, clear and soft; maUve, pale amber
violet and ivory white. The principal departure
from this rule Is for young girls in the dependence
placed upon one dress OF black lace or sprigged
net silk; and for Older women OF an all black
toilet also In lace Jet upon satin, In addition to
servtceabie OF dark or black velvet contrast
ed with its lace trimming. The high red and deep
red and gold have disappeared or are reserved Tor
jackets or maiinees in doors. Even for these how
ever the softer shades are preferred. Terra GOTTA
Old china and grey blue; low tones OF amber and
hen pen shades, instead OF mustard color and a
revival the ecru and mastic of the coffee
tints.
As Ihave stated before there's nothing quite so
renned as a short costume for day entertain
ment, luncheon or tea in all white or any delicate
color, maae uniform throughout. For evening
dress, shoes now and all details made to
match; Tine shoes often made OF piece OF the
silk or satin OK the DRESS the heels matching the
contrasting tint or color, II there are two In the
toilet.
II Is rot necessary, and rarely practicable, 10 be
as strict IN this respect with day costume; IO
matter how rich or complete in itself il may be.
White, or amber satin boots; gold or pink heels
across a wintry sidewalk, which is not always
carpeted; and fine, neat, black boots are there
fore quite the thing in the day time; and much
better than fancy boots or shoes, unless they
match the dress
SOME SHORT COSTUMES.
AT a "breakiast given recently there were more
extremely elegant short costumes than / have
ever seen assembled together on any one occasion
Among the more noticeable was one In two shades
OF helotrOpe, with vesI, panel, collar and edge OF
sleeves embroidered III helioJrope silk and gold
thread 4 he Jacket basque was OF solid velvet.
the pettcoat velvet also, with interior silk pla1t
ing. otherwise plain upon the edge. The en-
brOidsTy was executed upon silk veiOntine and
side drapery OF this handsome fabric was arranged
the night hip The sleeves had interior pun
ing OF The SIX, visible through strip or trans
parent, interlaced embroidery. With this dress
was worn a small, heliotrope, velvet bonnet with
gold embroidered crown and gold feathers.
mounted high and held by velvet loops and bow
The boots were heiiOtrope satin in the darker
shade with gold embroidered fronts and heels: the
embroidery exquisitely executed and not conspi-
cCOuS.
Another costume was white, China crane COW
cred with embroidery, with marabout edgfng over
thick, white siJin. The boots or this dress
matched Also ana the fine gold la the outlining OF
the embroidery Was repeated upon them anu UPON
the crown OF the bonnet, which Was trimmed
with lace and marabout feathers tipped with
gold
A.. all black dress was a mass OF fine let from
head 70 foot Speaking OF jet is a reminder OF q
LITTLE INDUSTRY
which one woman has created for herself by seiz-
ing the idea OF the jetred collar and plastrop
diverging from them into as many pretty forms
CT nchG, vest collarette and the like as her In
genuity and taste may suggest, and making them
up by hand Tor the market. The desisa Is first
cut out Ia strong black net and the edge turned
Gown all round and fastened. Upon this she
mounts ,ier beads, varying the patterns and fol-
lowing or changing The fashion OF ball or near
shaped pendants, To give appearance OF nov
city. ~
Dali JET and grey jet are used for mourning.
ana SO,e lovely things are made tIp in opal tinted
beads, IL brown SEED and wood beads and In br,nze
shades But the great demand is for the or,ijnlry
jeiIed styles; anG IL is in these that there Is the
81 "a