The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-10-29


over it, women in boarding houses talk
about it and crowd the nlatince perform
ances to SEQ it, 1t is well-known By man
ayers that the social element" IN theatre
parties and these who usually compose
them, care little for play, know nothing
about acting, do not want to be interested
or even amused, for it is not 1.-The thing to
laugh or be interested IN anything but ones
self and clothes and clothes, therefore and
a figure to exhibit them, are indispensable
elements of a society success on the stage or
or it, AS II lady said the other day, with
perfect gravity and totally unconscious
irony: Dress is everything"
Walking up Broadway the other day with
a lady who mad just returned from u five
years stay abroad, she remarked with
establishment upon the general size Of the
toul7attre, the exaggerated shelf it formed
at the back of the skirt, and the pronounced
exhibition of styles and colors High-colored
autumn gowns of wool displayed huge
sleeves, tied in above and below the elbow
with velvet; and designs were paraded on
the street only suited to the dressing room
or the boudoir. This is the reflection of the
footlights, from Il standpoint, it is true,
which does not represent either the best of
the stage or the best of society; but it is the
element which is popularity supposed to
stand for both, which is the most talked
about, and largely fills the society columns
of the newspapers. In the meantime, the
majority of women still continue TO get one
new gown and make over their old ones.
The question is
WHAT SHALL THAT NEW ONE BE9
Oh! green, of course, serpent green or
moss green; it is all the same, or at least
few know the difference. Make it up with
plush. No. Plush does not look or wear
as well as velvet, while the loose, fuzzy pile
destroys the outlines of the figure. Make it
up with velvet and add the new, black, open
spear heads IN passementerie to the panelled
sides, to the vest OF reverS of the bodice and
to the wrap, if your dress is completed by
one to match. But this is not necessary
with a green costume. Brown is the only
color which does not seem to go we'll with
other colors, which requires the costume to
be complete in itself; yet artists say brown
is friendly" 1t is true that green and
brown and brown and blue have been sue
cessfully blended in materials and designs,
but it is only when they are blended in
small quantities, not when they are con-
trasted in large ones, that they are sue
cessful.
THE FASHIONABLE USE OF FUR.
But about that dress. If you live in
cold climate you will not care for light or
fanclful trimmings you will want fur.
There is nothing so handsome or becoming,
in cold weather, as a finish of fur to a cloth
or velvet dress; and if the fur is good and
rightly used, it conveys a certain air of dis
tinction to very simple costumes. This year
fur is employed as trimming in novel ways
Instead of border it is used as an edge,
the fabric which compoSes the garment or
the supplementary trimming of rich braid,
overlapping the fur. 1t is also inserted at
the seams, to outline panels, the top Of the
arm and the upper and lower line of the
standing collar. There is not the comfort
in these lines of fur that there is in the
warm border; and they are more trouble,
but the effect is novel and the finish is there
without too much warmth when the supple
mentary body fur tishu or collarette is re-
moved.
Redfern, who introduced us to the soft
curled lambs wool, several years ago, has
brought out another new fur this year, or
the revival of an old one. 1t is called cara
cal" and is astrakhan in large, smooth
waves, which have the effect of MORE in
fur. 1t is not youthful in appearance, but
is exceedingly well adapted to mourning
and to the wear of ladies beyond middle
age, who have begun to restrict their choice
of material for dress, to black and sober
gray.
PRETTY GIRLS IN GRAY AND WHITE
Gray can no longer, however, be consid-
OItd 6ACluSlNGlJ d ullluib-dS6u pOE
some time past, and even now, gray is chosen
by young women, both in wool and silk, as
the color for street and indoor dresses. A
gray cloth suit made recently was panelled
with curled lambs wool, soft as down. The
BASQUE, cut with small reverS at the throat
and with cutaway points, displayed at both
openings part of the simulated vest Of
white lambs WOOL of which also the fez cap
and muff were composed. This was an ex-
no
tune, but it is only advisable under excep-
tional circumstances and for those who can
afford variety of gowns for street wear.
AS a rule, gray is too cold a color for win
ter, and if worn frequently needs to be COM
bined with warmer color ruby or amber
or both united in silk OF beaded trimmings.
Steel trimmings are revived for use on gray
cloth and silk, but they are deadly, unless
mixed with jets in black, or placed upon a
darker or warm background. 1t is one of
the results of the belated way in which we
get our ideas, that steel is brought
to us for ornamentation, at a period when
cold sharpens it into weapon, instead of a
beautifer, and moisture turns it to rust
after few weeks of exposure.
TULLE FOR EVENING WEAR.
Tulle has been gradually obtaining an as
cendancy, which it seems now to have quite
reached, as an element in elegant toilets
for evening wear. The more elegant, the
more tulle; and nothing can be more dainty
or more desirable, especially for young
women entering society, than tulle upon
tulle, over soft, all silk or satin, wide, soft,
satin ribbons for garniture and a hand bou-
auet of white roses. The style of the ma
iority of these dresses is exactly that of
thirty-five years ago. A plain silk or satin
misunderstanding of tulle COW
ering it entirely. Round, low bodice of silk,
draped with tulle, To- Verge or in surplice
style and small, round epaulette sleeves of
tulle only, caught up in the centre
A debutante who goes much into society,
should start with at least three such dresses.
One in white, one in carnation pink, one in
pale yellow or peach tint. White flowers
are used with each of these during the first
season, roses being always distinguished by
a certain cochet in winter, because they are
costliest; but lilies of the valley, though
they fade quicker are more youthful in APP
pearance, and sweet peas-if they can be
obtained-are pretty with delicate peach
tint in tule and silk, or nuns Yelling.
PINKED AND vANDYKED EDGES
appear again upon underwear, and also
upon some evening skirts made of soft silk
in delicate colors. The flower effect pro-
duced is very pretty and particularly well
adapted to silken underskirts; but it looks
rather affected when applied to gowns made
in the Josephine" style, with low short,
''baby" waist; short high puff for sleeves
and straight skirt, which hangs limp and
lank about the limbs Such dress Was