The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1887-12-28
Vale of Paradise.

Nature never intended there should
be CITY where Valparaiso stands, but
the enterprise of the Chillanos, aided
by English and German capital, has
built the finest port on the west coast
of South Am erica, and commerce has
made its headquarters there. The har-
Dor is spacious, its surroundings pic
turesque, and in ten months in the year
shipping is protected, but in midwinter,
when northers prevail, vessels are
often driven from their anchorage and
compelled to cruise about to avoid be-
ing dashed upon the rocks on which the
city stands. A breakwater built across
the entrance to the harbor might give
ample protection, but the sea is so
deep-more than 200 fathoms that
such work is deemed impracticable.
In the bay, drawn up in lines, like men
of-war ready for review, are hundreds
of craft, bearing the flags of almost
every nation on the earth except our
own. The foreign trade is controlled
by Englishmen, all commercial transac-
tions are rendered in pounds sterling,
the English language is spoken in the
streets and in the shops, an English
newspaper published, and toa stranger
the city seems like one of her maiesty's
colonies. There is strong prejudice
against the United States, growing out
of the attitude assumed by our govern
ment during the war between Chill
and Peru, which is stimulated by the
English residents. But few Americans
are there, the chief of whom are the
reverend and venerable DR.. Trumbull
and his coadjutors in the Presbyterian
missionary work and two or three
merchants. The name of the city
means the Vale of Paradise" but is
paradox, as there is no vale and few
symptoms of the supernal. An almost
perpendicular mountain ridge forms a
crescent around the bay, toward the
shores of which descend steep rocky
escarpments. Here and there courses
have furrowed down ravines, or barran-
cas-, as they are called, which offer the
only means of reaching the outer world
Along the narrow strip of sand which
lies between the sea and cliffs the town
stretches three or four miles. In some
places there is width enough for only g
single street, at others for three or foul
running parallel to each other, but they
only extend a few blocks. The one
street, the only artery of commerce il
Valparaiso, is the " Gale Victoria, ,
circling around the entire harbor, an(
skirted by all the banks and hotels, thu
counting-houses of the wholesale firms
the shops of the retailers, the govern
ment buildings and the fine private
residences. The rocky cliffs have beef
terraced as the town has grown, an,
hn Iit axytn hnn
hills a long distance, one mans hous
bein@above another's, and reached b
starways, winding roads and steam
" lifts " which carry passengers up in
clined planes like those at Niagara Fall
and Pittsburg. What roads there ar
were laid out by the goats that formerl
fed on the mountain-side, and twiS
about in the most confusing and Gil
cuitous fashion. One has to stop an
pant for breath as he climbs them, an
in coming down an alpenstock
needed. The hacks in Valparaiso hav
three horses attached to them, and tn
teaming is done in carts drawn by fou
oxen. An evening view of VALPARAISO
from steamer in the bay is quite move
as the lines of lights, one above tn
other, give the appearance of a Gil
:. turned up on end. Electric LAM
are placed upon the crests of the cliff
throwing their rays over into the stree
and terraces below, with the effect
moonlight. During the day, howeve
the irregular rows of houses, of diffe
ent shapes and elevations, clinging
the precipices, look as if a strong wiz
might blow them overheard or 6
earthquake shake them off into IL
bay.-Harper'S Magazine.