St. Paul daily globe., 1887-08-15
STYLE IN UMBRELLAS.
The Very Latest Thing in Rafr
Shedders---Artisti Handles.

The umbrella of our daddies (says
New York paper was not pleasing
sight upon the earth. Its centre-pole
was more formidable than shapely and
its expensive drapery more generally
adapted to soak up and retain the rain
than make any attempt to divert it, 1t
was short, fat and clumsy, without the
slightest pretenSiOn to bodily grace, and
every line offered directrepulSe I'd any
grateful instinct which antique swell
dom might have felt to adopt it as part
of fashions panOply.
The transition, however, is matter
needing little comment. Suffice it to say
that the umbrella, paraSOl and cane de-
partments of the dozen branches of
trade which regard such as legitimate
feature of their business are the most
carefully kept and best patronized of all.
1t will be pleasing intelligence to
these and to cOnnOiSSeurs of a good
stick to learn that several radical innO-
vatiOnS on present styles have been de-
creed, and that steps to secure the same
are in active progress among the accred
tied makers of the best goods.
The umbrella is, following the En-
glish custom, rapidly usurping the place
of the cane in dry weather, as we'll as
obtaining much more decided hold on
the affections of Americans where it's
own sphere is concerned. In its adOp-
ton as the correct carry for promenade
purposes is a comparatively re-
cent fiat-the umbrella has become eli
gible to a degree of elaborate ornament
alton as surprising as pleasing to the
eye.
Most of the handles, which form from
a manufacturers point of view the ba-
sis of the entire structure, will this year
be of local fabrication, although large
impOrtatiOns of the latest London fadS
are compulsory. In direct contrast to
the bulk of last seasons mode, they
will this fall tend to light and simple
shape. In canes as we'll as umbrellas
the most favored handle seems to be a
short crook or crutch, with stem of not
over two inches in length from bar to
band. The fact adduced by prominent
importer that over twO-thirds of the
handles in use in London to-day are of
the conventional buckhorn, will not be
without its effect on local prejudice.
Novelties in gold and silver handles
will be much in demand. The latter
metal has been put into several Strik-
ingly original forms, among which the
etched and electrOtyped varieties are
best calculated to tickle popular fancy.
In one the surface of the smooth sill
yer is deeply grained with acid to rep
resent in relief all sorts of floral, sport
ing, racing and coaching designs.
These figures are minute and literally
crowded together, so that a very small
handle may combine the functions of a
very entertaining picture book with its
natural office. In the other charming
effect is produced by coating the knob
of natural wood with graphite and
heavily electrotyping it in the pure
metal at least sixteenth part of an
inch thick. This coating is left on the
stick, oxidized and polished in faithful
imitation of its grain. Large imperta-
tions are reported of carved ivory
handles in grOtesque floral and animal
patterns. M.
The favOrite umbrella stick will, be
that of reed, strengthened by a stout
steel rcd run through the center, but
for canes more Weichsel and Numa
sticks will find favor than anything
else. ,t
In spite of the high duty of so per
cent. charged on SO-called Spitalfield
silks. these, both twilled and taffeta,w will
obtain over any American production.
The correct size will be in lengths of
from twenty to thirty inches by grada-
tion of two-inch lengths.
japanese or porcelain handles, for
either canes or umbrellas will not be al
lowed. and, in fact, the most serious de-
Walton from that arrangement which
will be admitted will be revival of the
old carved dog and animal heads in
wood from style half dozen years
old,