Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-09-19
OUR FASHION LETTER.
THE NEW YORK FALL STYLES In
CUT AND MATERIAL.
Costumes without Chanse-StyIes in
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Garments
-TaiIor-made Suits.
IRKcoRD-UNIoN Fashion Correspondence

IRECoRD-USIoN Fashion Correspondence
New YORK, September 10, 1887.
Throughout the realm of dress. the
viii rule. It is the leading
thought and without change, the female
mind viii .dete on changeableness- Bon
nets will be composed of changeable vel
vets, silks and even feits, while thereupon
will be placed chargeable ribbons and
feathers. Dress materials are changeabie,
and accessories change that there may be
pleasing uniformity. Even syoolens follow
and initiate, as far as practicable, the
lights and shadows of silks and vefvets,
but in woods the soft blendings possible to
richer goods become mixtures and often
degenerate into lines Of different color.
travelling zig gag and continually interfer-
ing with each other, while other crooked
nesses bring variety. One color also looks
up through another, bat in tortuous WAYS
that differ indefinitely, but all with the
purpose of producing indefiniteness. 1t
seems therefore an uncertain world that
we shall live in next winter, and in the
midst of such perplexities the eve will
rest with the pleasure produced by change,
on
TAILOR-MADE SUITS
OF Interchangeable cloth, yet even here, the
Recording Angel must write "change."
The orthodox opinion regarding them has
been that they were utterly to be con-
demned unless of one material. A new
doctrine is now in favor of two, and two
colors therefore we shall have. Authority
determines that the lighter shall compose
the underskirt, the darker the waist and
draperies with touches of light on the cor
sage. The highly orthodox tailor finish"
which may twist and turn, especially on
vests, since the vest lives and hourishes.
As memory Of the past, pinked cloth
edges come up and with two colors in juxta-
position will be a prominent feature in
I trimming cloth suits. Some stylish tailor
made suits, however, are Of one color and
material throughout, the principal differ
ence from last season being the
INTRODUCTION OF NEW coLoRs.
Brown is prominent, shading from dark
seal until the nut browns are reached.
Navy blue is also in much favor among
colors for the fall, and in three shades, is
succeeded by bright positive and light
blues. Tan and gray are, of course, COM
paratively little seen in cool weather; but
tan is too useful to be relinquished, and is
in the dark varieties. Deep slate succeeds
summer grays, and the olive and myrtle
greens have much showing. Plum will be
popular, as also garnet, cardinal and scar
lot Ilracc-na l-ars arn S11roluiro thay,,-
selves with Clark's Mile End cotton rs a
frequent substitute for sewing silk, on ae-
count of its smoothness and strength and
Plaids also bring change, and while some
show indefinite blendings, others come in
former distinctness of outline. The plaided
costumes of the summer were, many of
them, profoundly pretty, and a winters
cold will not kill the thought that gave
them birth. They will be repeated in
woOl-for the most part with plain wool
waist and plaided skirt, but changing at
times to other combinations.
STYLES IN MILLINERY.
In ribbons there is of course stylish
changeableness, the chief novelties being
"glace moire," doi1ble-faced gros grain,
showing two contrasting colors, single-faced
with changeable surface, and those which
display old tapestry, or jardiniere effects
Stripped ribbons are in much variety, be-
ing wrought in alternating collars and tex
ture, such as gros grain and MORE, gros
grain and satin, or dotted gros grain with
moire or satin edges Many new ribbons
have plain edges. Some show a satin
band, while the latest idea in fancy edge
I'll. lorlo, ell
readily with changeable ideas that they
are largely imported in great variety.
Cocks plumage has extraordinary prestige,
and is arranged in bristling groups of slen-
der feathers in different colors. Different
colors are often contrasted in the same
feather, gilt being prominent, and while
lunches of black cocks plumes are very
stylish adornment, yet all through the
family Of feathers, changeable or forescent
colorings are produced, reaching even to
ostrich plumage. Leading shapes in bon
nets are small, and crowns are lower, while
brims display much more variety in out
line than formerly, some turning back,
Others projecting, others again unequal on
the two sides, and numbers have coronet
brims. Velvet is the leading material,
but gros grain, MORE, faille franchise or
Bengaline will be used, while as a marked
novelty in felts come varieties so soft as to
be folded over in plaits.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS.
Coats and jackets, between which there
is distinction without difference, will
be extremely popular for young girls
whose slender figures show to advantage in
this class of garments so fatal to we'll
Il
tight-fitting at the back and usually in the
front likewise, unless a vest is inserted, in
which case the fronts may be loose, though
oftener buttoned over. Material is fine.
smooth cloth, corkserew, diagonals and
striking styles have white vest elabor-
ately trimmed with gilt Braid is the
usual trimming for these dress jackets, and
is sometimes placed in quite fanciful de-
signs with mixtures of gilt. Rough cloth
jackets are looser and the material shows
indistinct mixtures of cross lines. bars,
stripes or zigzags in various colors of sub
dued effect. The stylish wraps of late so
much in vogue, will be the choice for older |
ladies, and reaching not below the waist
Will serve to show a pretty fall costume
while giving some warmth. Newmarkets
and Raglans again food the market and
are welcomed by everyone whether old or
young.
IN CONCLUSION.
Conservatives will choose not to change,
while even those who love change, will
at times as change, choose outfits in
which no change appears. Thus there
will be room for the plain as indeed is al
ways the case, and for the class who study
economy, ii is advisable to select something
standard, like black silk or cashmere, or if |
some fancies of the day be thought prefer
able, let them not be TOO numerous One
or two costumes, if made to do good service
In their day and creneratior, cnn conrnior,