Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-09-17
THE MEN THIS TIME.
SOMETHING OF THE FALL STYLES
FOR GENTLE
Fashions in Goods and the Manner
Of their Making Up for
the Fall.


the Fall.
The evening dress suits show marked
changes. The skirts are out somewhat
longer and the waist sets in more closely
over the hips as if the coat was worn but
toned. All attempts, however, to popular
ize white or colored lining have failed, and
black silk or satin will be the material
generally used. A light cream or yellow
silk sleeve-lining, however, is considered
good form. That old-timer, the notched
collar, is the style advised for corpulent
men, while for tall and slightly built per-
sons the shawl-roll is considered most be-
coming. Broadcloth and invisible diagon-
ais are the materials most in favor, not
only for coats, but for trousers and waist
coats as we'll. When cloth waistcoats
are worn they should be embroidered
and will be considered quite the thing,
no matter whether they have three
or four buttons, white waistcoats
are also to be worn, but to
be correct must be of embossed or embroid-
cred silk. The trousers will be worn
rather more closely fitting than last year,
vet not so tight as to be easily bagged at
, the knee. Hip trousers, to be worn without
suspenders, are most i'll favor, but there is
no objection to braces on that account The
full-dress evening shirt is still open in
front The tendency is toward lowered
and ribbed pique bosoms, the floral design
most favored being the heur de lis. FASH
ion, however, permits the plain bosom with
a narrow cord. Three or one studs is con-
sidered equally good taste, but two should
never be worn. The cuffs should be at
tached to the shirt and be fastened by mar
row links, while the standing collar, with
turnover points, is necessary to perfect
dress. The white tie is still in favor, al
though the narrow little bows of
black satin will contest for the
supremacy. To complete the even
ing full dress, Il moderately wide-toed
patent leather gaiter is considered the
proper caper. Laced patent feathers,
pumps, low-cut shoes and calf boots are
tabooed.
A new idea in connection with evening
uGtSS IL the uItSS SdNh todl II HUNS
and costs much, and on this account will
commend itself to many. 1t is made of
fine worsteds. Its edges are bound with
narrow French braid turned over so as to
initiate cord, and the roll is silk-faced.
On the left breast, high up, is a single
button-hole, intended for a buttonniere Or
Sir Knights button. There are no but
tons on the coat, nor any outside pockets
There are two inside pockets in the lower
half of the coat, and the sleeves are
turned back or finished to.imitate cuffs 81
inches deep, and are closed with two but
| tons. These coats, however, are intended
| for wear only when the strains of form
atty are relaxed. Although made to
wear on dress occasions, it is not intended
! to supplant the swallow tail, but to be used
, in the proper place at the proper time in
| place of the claw-hammer. Such times
| and places would be at stag dinners, in the
club house and the billiard room. In the
overcoat line the Inverness without
sleeves will be the most popular. Made
moderately long, of medium or heavy
weight goods, i. can be put on and slipped
without wrinkling the clothes or disar-
ItlllSillS Tue cpllstT, CullS VI We.
For morning wear three or four-button
cutaways will be quite the thing, the fig
IRE governing the garments style. For
| instance, stout man will he advised by
| his tailor to wear a three-button coat,
while slim man will be told that four
| button coat suits him best. A black or
| blue-black vale worsted diagonal is about
| the only material suitable for these coats,
and should be trimmed with fiat braid
| laid on. For business the sack coat will
| lead. These will be made up of small check
and stripe suitings with striped effects
taking the lead. Elderly gentlemen will
| find themselves best suited in the frock
and one-button cutaways, the last-named
coat being especial designed for corpulent
men. For exceedingly dressy young men
the double-breasted frock will offer attrac-
tions, for it can be worn in the early win
ter in lieu of an oyercoat. The greatest
change in coats from those worn last season
will be in the roll of the collar, and is re-
garded az being decidedly effective. Full
ness and perfection of contour will mark
the neck and shoulders, and is the result
of an attempt to meet the change made in
waistcoats.
These changes consist in tendency to
lower the cut. While six-button straight
and curved-crease vests will he worn, the
most nobby and correct style is the FIVE
button. Plain and notched collars will be
considered good form, but a no-collar vest
is not to be thought of. The general
change of trousers noted in those for full
dress applies to those used for ordinary
wear, except that the latter are trife
higher in the waist.
The single-breasted fy-front Chesterfield
will be the correct thing in overcoats for
fall and early winter Wide vale dag
onals in dark color' will be the most swell,
although good form admits of kerseys,
motions and other light weight materials
to be used. Corkscrews are no longer con-
aidered in good taste. For cold weather,
suugly fitting coats of beaver. Montaignac
cloth and like materials will be used They
should be made with full sleeves, quilted
satin facing, single or double-breasted, and
the sleeves and front should have piping
of velvet as near the shade Of the cotton as
possible. For rough weather the cape Ill
ster will be found comfortable and cor
stvle in that il will be made more roomy
ana longer. he correct ienSth VIII DE 10
within six or seven inches of the instep.
The Astrakan, with deep fur collars, trays
and heavy cuffs, will also be affected by the
too utterly utter, but for genteel dress they
are not regarded as quite the thing.
Shoes will be Worn very much broader
at the toe than last year, the cloth-top
button gaiter and the high-laced calf tax
ing the lead. For dress occasions the pat
ent leather laced will be good taste.
In hats, however, there is nothing strik-
ingly novel either in form or color The
tendency seems to be toward a neat, genteel
Derby. Leading dealers have brought out
hat of medium proportions, while one
Broadway house offers full black with a
sort Of a fiat top-a compromise between a