Morris tribune., 1887-11-23
The BIG MEAT BILLS
OF Senator Evarts, Pierre LOrillard and
James Gordon Bennett, Jr.


met fat, jolly looking Irishman in
the office Of friend of mine the other
day, who impressed me strongly with his
heartiness. After he had gone out l
asked my friend who he was.
"You will probably be surprised, F" re-
turned my friend, "but that man is well
known to some of the most prominent
men i'll New York, and has had very init
mate dealings with them. Among these
may be mentioned Pierre Lorillard, James
Gordon Bennett, Senator Evarts, and
don't know how many others; enough,
|. anyhow, to put him on speaking terms
with three-quarters of the men whose
names are familiar to everybody"
Something in the tone of his voice and
in the rather amused smile that accom-
panied it made me push my inquiries fur
ther. The man who was supposed to
know everybody worth knowing had not
the distinguished air usually worn by
such personages. was not, therefore, SO
much surprised as I would otherwise
have been when I learned that he was
Kelly the butcher. The rest of his name
was said to be immaterial; but not to
know Kelly the butcher was, was as
sured, to argue ones self unknown. For
years he and his father before him kept o
butcher shop at University place sand
Thirteenth street. Here were cut the
juicy chops and the tender steaks, and
from here were sent the delicate fowl and
game that have tickled the palates and
pleased and satisfied the stomachs of q
generation of the wealthy and prominent
Of New York's citizens. Catering to the
stomachs of these patricians, Kelly learn
ed certain interesting characteristics of
81 1,ai fod 70
my friend, also his patron, who in turn
related them to me.
Senator Evarts, according to his meat
man, is very particular as to the flesh he
eats. Although his face looks like q
piece of parchment, and has no more
color in it, yet he INDUCES in rare steaks
and roast beef, meats that contain the
most blood. He is very particular about
them also. His cook selects the meat ten
days in advance of the time it is wanted
for the table, and has it cut off in his
presence Then Kelly puts it into his ice
box, where it remains until it is sent to
the senator.
Pierre Lorillard is one Of Kelly's best.
patrons, and one who has stuck to him
since he moved up Down. His bill nor
meat alone when he is at his town resi-
dence sometimes reaches 800 month
and averages $500. 1t would be impos-
sible for any family to spend that amount
for meat even with q house full of guests,
but Lorillard, like Bennett, is high
liver, and aims to secure delicacies for his
guests that make q visit at his house
much coveted privilege. His orders are
such, sometimes, that it is necessary to
spoil large quantities of meat or fowl to
get at the particular part he desires.
T11J1C Incl Vuhn no Orf1o
pounds of chicken breast, q great many
chickens would have to be cut up to sup
ply that amount. He would, of course,
be charged just as much as though he
had ordered that number of chickens. 1t
is very profitable for the butcher, I'M
doubtedly, inasmuch as he can sell those
parts of the chickens that have not been
used and in that way get double pay for
the same article When it comes to
orders of like nature in regard to more
expensive game, as canyasback ducks,
grouse and SO forth, the orders amount
to large sums. Lorillard is a hard Gus
toner to suit, though, for while he does
not grumble at the bills, he wants what
he orders on the moment and will not take
any excuses.
Bennett is probably the most extrava7
CANT of all. He has not been in New York
Tor some years now, but there is no reason
to believe that he has grown any more
economical since he went abroad, even
though his newspaper has lost so much in
circulation. His household was run on
the most extravagant scale in every re-
spect He paid a man in one of the oyster
saloons to remain up all night in readiness
to prepare oysters for him at any time he
might desire them. His orders to his
butchers exceeded in extravaganza those
of all the other nabobs, and 1000 q
month went into the Golfers of Kelly, the
butcher, from this source alone. His
servants lived on the fat of the land, for
his orders for supplies were on such a
grand scale that large portion of the
food brought into the house had to be
thrown away daily While his father,
who made the fortune his son attempted
to but could not dissipate, lived the serv-
ants were held in some sort of check, but
even then they had pleasant time of it.
Every morning this order came down for
the old mans breakfast, toast and tea.
These slices of toast, stamped in artistic
shapes, and pot Of tea would be sent up
to him, while the servants below diaed on
porterhouse steak, lamb chops, broiled
chicken and other choice viands.-Wash-
ington Post