Los Angeles daily herald., 1887-11-03

;sss5 yelyeet season and Ne helieye
they arg right, for the largest and
heaviest importations are Of these
goods for dress and millinery pur
poses. Woolen-backed velvets are 8
new and novel dress material, thret
and sometimes five different color
in the same fabric. These
goods are made up with plain stuffs
one of the colors of the vel
vet. All materials, whether OF velvet
plush or wool, have their appropriate
fabrics.
Woolen goods for street and also fol
house wear are very stylish and popu
lar. The handsomest OF the CLOTH
novelties for the winter season are
SO costly that only the few with well
filled purses will be able to weal
them. The Louis XIV and Louis XVI
cloths and soutache fabrics are among
the choicest and most expensive ex.
hibits. Fortunately for those who
cannot afford these costly goods, there
are many other less expensive
and very handsome stuffs to
be had. There is new
material called Amazon cloth, which
is yery like the habit cloth, but not
nearly SO expensive and considerably
narrower in width than the latter. Its
range of color is, however, the same.
The latest change in habit cloth is in
the colorings. A new style OF weaving
called chevron has recently been in
troduced, and is shown in the Japan
cloths, and also in the Burmah vicuna
cloth, which is very soft and every
way desirable.
Vigogne is q staple commodity and
will be popular and much worn in
the freise and gobelin tones. One OF
the inexpensive cloths of the day is
drap de cordun, foule cloth with a
color. Tweeds will be
as favorably received as ever,
both for tailor-made and other
gowns. There are numerous
under this head. The
Irwin tweed especially is a very
imitation of coatings. The
new stripes in tweeds also show beau
tiful mixtures of colors, particularly in
red and blue, brown and gobelip. The
firm thin, strong tweed called ia lor
tweed has thread stripes OF distinct
color, an inch apart, with chevron
weaving between.
Plaid and white stripes will be very
much used this season. The Algerine
tweed also shows rich and hand
some effects in intermixed colorings.
Brocade plays no great part in wool
ems, except in the very costly cloths.
A brocaded leaf sometimes finds its
way with pleasing effect among the
stripes. The Raye brocade also has a
long, continuous brocade between the
stripes. Red, brown and russet are
very popular shades in morocco,
which is trife darker than tobacco
brown, but brighter than mahogany.
1t combines very effectively with moss
green, fawn and gobelin blue.
In all the new woolens red and
brown seem to struggle for the ascend
ency. They are reddish, brown and
brownish reds, and clear reds and
browns are also contrasted in plaids
and stripes. Woolen goods in grey or
''froc de capucin" are used for travel
ing or indoor suits. A very dressy
indoor costume is of "capucin'
vigogne. The half-train skirt is
very full and forms large plaits.
The skirt opens ON the right side from
the hip down over q large breadth OF
white silk, embroidered with white
flowers Il in relief. There is fat apron
in front. The pointed waist is bor-
dered with wide steel galloon worked
on white ground. In front Of the
waist is white and "capucin" draped
fichu which crosses and is fastened to
the belt. The upper part of the waist
forms small vest with a straight col
lar of steel galloon.
Cashmere continues in great de
mand, both for street and house
dresses. Moire silk is one of the
principal combinations for this sof1
material. A new shade of blue, which
is neither light nor dark, is called
italian sky. 1t combines effectively
with bronze, ecru, japanese red, fawr
Or russet. Black will be color uni
versally favored in garniture. Black is
now used in combination with and te
trim everything. A very stylish win
ter street costume is of dark moss
green cloth, with black braidine
around the edge Of the tunic, and il
panels on each side OF the skirt point
ing upward toward the waist. A YES
of black MORE accompanies thii
toilet; also black beaver hat will
black plumes and tan-colored Suede
gloves. Very elegant evening toilet
are made of black lace in combination
with moire antique. The latter il
either black, solid colored or change
able as the wearer may prefer.
Jackets OF varied styles and shape
are favored by ladies' of all ages fo
general wear, and are worn by youni
ladies on all occasions. The shor
mantle wraps also seem to be yer.
popular, and are especially fashionabl,
for very young girls for drcssy wear
In millinery, small hats hold the van
tage ground. Sailor shapes, with th,
brim short at the back and rolled il
front, are shown in velvet with tn
trimming massed at the back.
Wide ribbons are used to trim tn
sailor hat, and this soft bunchy trim
ming is decidedly pretty in effect
Ribbons of faille, with satin edg
and sometimes with gold or coppe
edge, are used for these clusters
Rich shades of garnet are used witt
sage green. Embroideries in the tw
coIors, mingled with thread OF tinsel
trim these hats with feathers OF gree
tipped with garnet or flecked wit
garnet. Birds and fiat wings are use
on many of the new bonnets.
English bonnets appear low whe
not on the head, but the trimmings
though in severe outline, are s
massed that the bonnet is quite hig
when worn, yet never extreme i
height, like the bonnets OF last winter
Pale bluish-green velvet bonnets i
gas light color are shown for oper
wear. They are simply trimmed wit
feathers in the same color and wit
ornaments formed OF small pins @
combs Of rhine stones. All bonnet