The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1887-09-24
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THE ISLANDS OF ALASKA.
Alive with Salmon and Other Fish
The Appearance of the eNatives-Sttka
Waters by Moonlight.
Correspondence of the N. Y. Erening Post

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Handkerchiefs were waving, and our
restless little boat gave great puffs of salts
faction and fairly screamed as the cable
that had restrained her of her liberty
splashed into the blue water, and she glided
smoothly away from crowd of sad-looking
upturned faces, out into the pretty harbor
of Victoria. The city of Victoria, the seat
of government of British Columbia, situated
at the southeastern extremity of Vancouver
Island, occupies a commanding commercial
position. Its many handsome buildings
present a pleasing picture as viewed from
the harbor. The solid red brick govern
ment buildings, in the Swiss style of arch
itecture, are especially imposing. The
broad drives and general attractiyeness of
this little city of some 10000 souls engen-
der slight feeling of homesickness, as we
start on our lonely journey northward for
Alaska, conscious of the fact that soon We
shall be almost 1000 miles from the reach
of the telegraph and of the civilized world.
Before introducing my readers to Alaska,
few words as to its extent may be of in
terest. The name Alaska is corruption
of ALay-ek-sa, the name given by the
native islanders to the main land, and sig
mites "great country" In this respect it
is well named. Bounded on the north by
the Arctic Ocean, east by the Northwest
Territory of Canada, south and west by the
Pacific Ocean, Behring's Sea and Strait, it
contains about 531 400 square miles; all the
other States and Territories of the United
States combined contain 100000 sqnare
miles; hence Alaska is nearly one-ffth the
size of all these Its vast area can thus be
conceived.
Our first stop was at Port Townsend, the
port of entry for Puget Sound. 1t lies at
the entrance to that magnificent body of
water The place is of small consequence,
but situated as it is in pretty bay, with
some cosy residences scattered on the hills
and bluff overlooking the beautiful still
water, it is very attractive to the eye. Our
vessel now points her bow due north, and
threads her way among numerous islands.
To the left of us rises the Olympian range
| of mountains in the distance; to the right
of US, solitary ai7d aaia7da alone, and enveloped
seemingly in golden vapor, rises the lordly
Mount Baker, one Of natufo'G own grand
monuments, stretching its head some 10, 900
feet above us.
Our route lies along the eastern coast of
Vancouver Island. The mountains border
closely upon the waters edge, the shore is
indented by numerous bays and tiny inlets,
and iunumerable islands are scattered in
our pathway. For days We thread our way
midst these countless islands, through mar
row watery lanes that wind among them.
One hour our craft will be plowipg her way
through fierce, swift-rqpaipg current,
soon to find herself In calm, blue, deep
waters, troubled only by gentle breeze,
encompassed all the time by an ever-shifting
panorama of rock, verdure, thick forest and
picturesque mountains.
Protected as we are by Vancouver Is
land, no motion is felt from the Pacific
until we reach Queen Charlottes Sound,
at the upper end of the island, when the
long swells come rolling in upon us, and
we are awakened at midnight by being
tossed about in our berths. Early morning
on deck presents to us beautiful scene.
To our left, the great ocean reaches far
away to the horizon, not sail, or even a
bird, in sight 1t is calm, restful picture.
On our right lies the main shore of British
Columbia, fringed by countless islands,
heavily timbered with spruce, the Cascade
range of mountains in the background.
Queens Sound, also Fitzhugh and Smith S
Sounds, into which flow the Bella Coola,
Salmon and other rivers of less note, are
before us, great focks of wild fowl frolick-
ing in their waters At the head of these
streams are located some of the important
posts of the Hudson Bay Company.
Our next point Of interest is Cape St:
james, the most southerly point Of Queen
Charlotte's Islands. These islands lie
some seventy-fve miles out in the Pacific,
from the main land. The mountainous
ones are clothed with dense forests Of
cedar, spruce and hemlock, stretching down
to the waters edge, so thick in many places
that it seems as though there was barely
room for single person to gain foothold.
The Hydah Indians, numbering about 600,
live on these islands With the aid Of our
field glasses we cap discern them on the
shore and in their canoes padding along
the coast. They live by hunting and
trapping mink, bear and other game.
Their origin, in the absence of any record,
can only be surmised, but from their
features, legends and carvings, it seems
probable that they are castaways from
eastern Asia.
We are now entering the waters Of
Alaska. After journeying northward some
two hundred and fifty miles, passing the
Prince of Wales Island to our loft, VIC
reach our first stopping place, Fort Wrangel.
Clustered on the shore to greet and stare
ut us are the native men, women and
children, and an odd looking lot they are.
The men as a general thing are offensive in
their appearance, with great, large, broad
heads, and heavy, sullen countenances; the
women, as rule, homely, but with here
and there an attfactiye face most of them
arrayed in brilliant.colored blankets and
gaudy petticoats, trimmed with fringe of
deer skin, just long enough to conceal
partly the bare feet and ankles. From the
wrists is suspended string of shells or
pebbles, species of Alaska bangle; from
the lower lips of many of the women a
silver pin protrudes, called laJrette.
Many of the younger women have their
faces blackened. In some cases this is
done to preserve the complexion, which,
strange to say, is even valued among such
barbarous tribe, while in other cases it is
done as mark of mourning for the dead.
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