The Republican journal., 1887-01-27
European Sketches.
A SWISS WATERING-PLACE.

| 1t was past the middle of August, and Italy
in August is by no means Icclandic. We learn
ed this by yexpcricnce and feel well assured that
this is one of the best of teachers. 1t taught
us that the italian sun is no myth. 1t taught us
that 4 well-bronzcd complexion is one of the
necessities of existence at this season. 1t taught
us that sightseeing in Southern Europe in mid
summer has its drawbacks. 1t promised us
! much more of comfort. could we but throw of
our allegiance, for tne to the land of the
olive and fig-trce and betake ourselves to that
| limited area of Arctic weather and everlasting
! snow switzerland. There was pleasure in
| the thought and we were not slow in carrying
it into execution. AS the sun went down on
our last full day in Italy. we busted ourselves
| in preparing for start toward the icy country
at noon the next day. The Hotel Royal at
Milan, was in dire confusion that night The
season of grand opera was to commence at the
| Opera House and the hotel was doubIy over
crowded with singers of all grades, musicians,
| bA,let-girls and guests from all the country
| about. brought hither by this momentouS event.
Servants. walters and porter> ran about, if for
nothing else. simply to add TO the din. At din
ner one could get but poor service and very lit
| tie to eat. During the early evening the crowd
| in the courtyard of the hotel was almost ini-
pa>>aie. by seven o'clock they began to de-
| part in carriages and on foot for the Opera
| House, that later in the evening everything
resumed It's wonted quietu,c. All this hustle
affected our party but slightly. Some attended
the opera. others walked about the city. while
| those with ,li>ta>tc for excitement of any
| kind spent the evening comfortably, eatin.
| ices and slipping lemonade i'll the hotel court
| yard. At Il very early hour most Of the PARTY
We're in bed. safely concluding il We're the bet
ter policy to husband their strength for the ia
| ti4uc and discomfort which Il forty-ei"ht hours
drive hy diligence across the st. Gotllard pass
| was sure 10 occasion.
| All We're in excellent spirits and prepared for
| nearly anything in the line Of harl>hip>. when
| we took the train next day. our ride by rail
was short: i'll less than four hours we had
reached Cumerlata where our experience with
| di!i"enrrs was to begin. Mr.. taprani, who
was conductor PRO feW. showed the >a@aciy
| which only those who know the clanyin" hu-
| mor> of the avt rage tourist and what will make
| them merry or doWl-heartcd. can be expected
to have. put everyone in the happie>t frame OF
mind. 10y having ready for at this point an
excellent dinner. Discomfort MAY 20 to the
winds when Il mans stomach is content. So we
were in rather Il hoi>terou>ly happy mood as.
with the ootin. of horns, our trio of diliYences
| started out. Thus. under circumstances which
| lacked nothing. and with clear Italian skv
f, overhead and sunset of gorgeous beauty about
to be added to our panorama of already mag
hliicelt scenery, our journey INTO the Swiss
country began. Ii i>ht within the scope of
this short article to portray all the incidents
connected with the trip. In fact we intend to
say nothing further IN regard to il at present.
other tlian to note that. With the exception of Il
nights rest AT lu@ano. we rode continuously
| until the Stconl day thereafter. at noon. when
we reached the lake and village Of Lurcrne.
! We watched with interest. during our ride the
| preparations going on over nearly the entire
route. for the railroad through the pass and
across the mountains. That it was amo>t diff
| ctlit piece Of engineering no one can dispute
who has ridden over the line or any portion of
| il in the daytime. But more of this later. To
| day one can ride in the most comfortable ears,
-iuman> 'iraWln@-roum alone excepted
| from tamerata to i,rtrne in six hours in
| stead of the long tirag of two days or more
| which travellers of Il few Years back We're
| forced to undergo. 1t is one Of the progressive
| >ign> Of the times. Diligence travelling has
| been almost stamped ont of existence hN it.
| Probably it is for the best. If there should be
| a chance presented for maxim" the circuit of
| the globe by rail in twenty DAYS. there are
| doubtless hundreds of cnterpriSiny Americans
who would take advantage of it. People are
| being educated more and more aS time goes on.
| in the line of leaving slow. hundrum methods
| in the rear. Well. naturally. We must all fall
| into the procession while in motion. hut let us
| pause moment to suggest that should the olp-
| portunity ever be given to any of You to take Il
| diligence ride across the Alps, do not miss ii.
| 1t is well worth the >quandrrcd fort, light
hours time But we We're pretty tired and ml-
| dcniably hungry when We reached Lucerne, so
| that the luNuriou>-appcarin% hotels along the
lahcfroni opened their doors to rs apprcciati> e
| guests a> they could have desired.
| switzerland is land of commodiouS hotels.
| They fairly swarm in towns of the size and inn
| portanre Of Luccrne ard Intcrlacken. and are
| slowed away i'll all the strange places ima@ina-
| bic the whole country over. Pensions. which
| arc either small hotels or quite pretentou>
| hoai'ii--iloti>e>. a> one may prefer to claim.
| exist everywhere. In the sleepy old towns on
| both sides of the Alps there are very many
one gets the best of board and service at these
pensions. whether filled with summer boar,lcr>
| OF yourself the sole occupant of the dinner
| table. For breakfast they invariably serve rolls
and strained honey or buekwhcat cakes and
honey, followed by juicy steaks. potatoes. hot
| rolls and coffee. The cooking leaves nolhin.
| 10 be desired. while the service at table is fc;l-
| ture that deserves special mention. As rule
| the walters are young girls who in addition to
being >pri@htly and pretty are dressed in COS
| tunes peculiar to the canton in which they live.
| One of the prctticSt sights we saw in this con-
| " ~, I'm 10" - wy ii!''i "i>S"'.!' At pi"h-'
-. 'he "',''i.i"o'h were some 'hirte or more
-r'> oi ap"u' .nr SAM sane SlI' an" aSr' WIN Solt.
.ic! uie>st' "t' ,''Ne pfiSht >iaer pcitS al
the waist were fastened in front with chains OF
p"iiilsitu >teo'' Whle from lnt'n uel!ch;eo
| beautifully wrought crosses. Their hair was
roil,pel i UP u, >'raiSeE picturesque manner
M"h >nNei "'iI'> : am! crosses si,tk'hS AT ram
""'h III, "uSn IT, ms - one ol .i'' >nTcWdes'
| e"ru> We holel people pi''N. IL iS thtlf trllm
| ciru. Many OF tile guests become interested
| Ill lhc WALTERS 10 suth ucSfce.- ana lhtrc are
some OIL thein VINO speak EhSll>h rehlarkabiN y
Wtii' as AN aanit!oha' chafii,-a> 10 completely y
rose iheir appe'iies ah" i'll some cases then
''''.tN 's "eh' nu' @ our parry were not aiieet'
tu ~ ,h'S way we were eltier 100 young OF
100 hardened.
p"i Stopping piaee White III l-!icefhe was tilt
iio'c' nu t!She' we can safely venture tht
OPINION 'hat no better house exists on the con
MEM thah ms. keN. iohcrt Coliyer VISITED
th'S resort several years IN advance OF us, bl
Ill in ii'ie ne reported IL as te best mousse M
ever stopped ar: we DO not heiicNe there ha'
neeh any hhrkWaf" step III II, management
>liirr. 1 ne hcNcfehu may nave beell gwen ont
OF me paiatlai rooms on We ground 1oor ant
;" lcii II ms uly 10 praise tle mouse regardless
~. we s'cpt on the io'!rtn i1oor- back, with III
carpet aiih ON! Il lliiltcd view from our oh'
MliihoW OF Il Wca'hcr-pcatch old tcnemen
house. 50 we got no pay for our puff. Th
holei, lhc En@iiShcr-liof and the l-ucernc-ilo
are the thfec @raiiuest houses ana, by appear
tnce.. the best patronZed by Americans an'
English. Ihe FORMER class usually put III
Whcrc ACCOMMODATIONS are the most SatS1ac
} tory' no matter what the price. The Smalie
houses are the resorts oil the French. German
ana others, Who' Notwithstanding how bite
hatred may reign III tneir hearts. make com