Daily Yellowstone journal., 1887-02-08
A CHAPTER on PERFUMES.
~ Kinds Most Liked, aud an Account q
Their Production.

MOWERS, SAID a Manufacturer o, per-
fumes 10 the writer.
"The effort that Is being made to
extract perfumes from p troleum and
other things will prove sbortlve, a they
an never equal the delicacy Of the odor
of . gen Iine flower. The amount oil co.
iogne II ade In America Is enormous, but
n does not approach tue quantity manu-
nctured In Europe, where It's Use Is well
nigh universal.
"In this country perfumes are made
from the original flowers only on a small
osale. and even then II is too expensive
% 60 Into general competition on such q
easis. The odors are nearly all import
q In the shapes Of oils and essences, and
from these as q basis the colognes are
made. In many foreign countries whole
communities are supported by cultivat-
ing and gathering flowers.
1.-The cut flowers are usually placed In
targe watts upon which q proportionats
amount OF waller Is poured. After IL
has stood for . certain time the process
81 evaporation is FASTENED by heat, and
The oil In tie flowers passes into vapor.
This Is then condensed and the oil IL
found floating on the water.
"The oil seems TO contain the aromatic
primo pie OF plants. To make essences
nom the oil IL is usually mixed with
alcohol. Some OF the oils are so volatile
that they cannot be gathered In this
manner. They will fy of In the process
OF distillation with water. and the deli
cate suggestions OF sweetness are lost.
To obviate this Q heavy or fixed oil 10
employed.
sit is usually the finest grade of beef
euet. This by heat Is converted into q
Hquid stats aud the flowers are put into
It. The odor Of the plant will pass into
the Az oil and be Ield q prisoner.
Some alcohol 10 also used in this method,
end 1t 10 In the shape OF beef suet paste
laden with the fragrance Of many beau
eful flowers that much OF our perfume
= imported.
"The famous altar of roses is made
Rom the Rosa Damascena, which grows
LIKE Q weed N Smyrna and In some PARTS
efTurkey and France, though the growth
comparatively small in the latter
countr
natives o. those places collect
III oil Ia a simple manner. The roses
are placed in wafer. and alter decompo-
sitionv sets IN tie oil floats on the sur
lace and il Is 40 orbed by cotton balls
deity dipped into the liquid. The cot
ton under pressure gives up this oil,
which is bottled and sealed. A bushei
Of flowers wll produce only q few drops
Of oil.
The genuine is the most expensive oil
N the marAet, and worth about $50 an
ounce. IL is adulterated with oil OF rho
dunn, Wal and other substances, and
She price Is arranged TO suit the Dur.
chaser.
The strength o. this oil makes Il sick.
eoing In It's natural state. The adulter-
alton has reached such q high state of
perfection that even the most expert are
deceived by it.
"Patchouli is made from q natural
plant growing In great abundance In the
Malay Islands. and u 0 great favorite
- o perfume.
There Is q growing demand now for
Avender water. It 10 maze by mixing
rose and Orange waters with the oil OF
lavender, AM has q refined and pleasant
as we'll as refreshing odor. The English
on VI lavender 10 the best that is onsthe
market. and besides being u-el \ rer.
fume Is a favorite ar icl- in hIGr les M
a ilayor or cakes and Ia c pr ,u.s.
~ - " Estllultlil III u ILL | III am
D. 'iges Ion NTH the sys,ru h cuitir-
used 10 il, ann then Il is Ltrlrt, .u..I
one OF the worst forms uf ~ ls.I,sia.
The liNen ser shrub and lI,e les a.
mine plant are cultivated Ia "A 1 re rx-
Tent la England and France Tor tnis
industry.
f"Tne genuine hrliotrope / moi as lire
IN odor AS The imita ion. Thu latter is
knaun M thu xpHft.. s.ltnt..a. All a..
made rom a combination o. viol [ aud
vanilla, and has a ~soporlflc tent ncy il
brea he'd Tor any lei ga OF time.
"Bergainot. when ". h musk forms
the STAPLE perfume OF the colured NJ
lation, Is a comparatively CHI ap oil. 1t
n madel rom "A sma Species Of lemon, the
best quality Of which grows la the island
Of Sicily, and is cultivated specially for
this purpose. The iruit is picked while
hard and unripe. and IL takes about 400
% produce a pint OF oil under pressure.
Bergamot Is q slight irrIiant and. 1t is
said, will raise hair gu a bald head.
The Distinguishing marks OF the
tuberose Is stfel 9Th, while the violet Is
light and pure. The verbena was once
sgreat favUritr. but is nov rarely called
Tor. The rose geranium makes an Q D.
CANT perfume and is nearly as good as ha
altar OF Roses. The lily OF the valley pro-
duees u OF the richest perfumes, aud
the lemon, orange and dafiodil are much
thought Of.
But the best perfumes are combina-
tions oil the original odors. There are
about n hundred Of them, many OF
which have had their day. The secret
Of a combination Is 10 mix the odors 30
that none Is prominent and all are lost.
The best two are the ancient eau de CO.
logne and the cashmere bouquet.
ITO mix the odors SO hat they blend
perfectly ls difficult. One great obstacle
u hat when the odors are mixed one or
more OF them will fade away and disap-
pear, having seemingly been neulraiized
and worn out by time.
"SomrtiMes the combinations are
named altgr some well known fragrant
substance, as, Tor instance, neN-mown
hay. But the resemblance OF the odor To
ne article named is slight indeed, and
the manufacture relies on the imaglna-
ton oil the purchaser 70 make up the
deficiency.
The old standby among the combi-
nations Is the Jockey Club. Others
have seasons OF popularity and then
pass away. but the glory Of the Jockey
Club is never dimmed, and the demand
for II never wanes.
next In order OF favor comes the
ylang ylang, and the %patchouli, which
y thought by many dealers TO be the
best alLround perfume In the market.
"Tne profits in the perfume traue are
enormous and NO one will ever starve IN
the business"
Bull and British Red.
In thu paxal tlA l.t. Or WILLIAM