St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1887-12-04

of an inch apart. Just below these and
quite at the bottom of the skirt comes
broad band of fur. If the skirt is not so
wide as to hang in folds and give the fur
a clumsy appearance, the effect is very
jaunty. The three tucks on the front
of the waist must turn forward,
and go from the shoulder seam
diagOnally to point some three inches
below the waist line. Round the back
of the stand-up collar and coming down
Just in front of these ridges is a narrow
piece of bears fur tapering to the waist.
The front of the collar and the Nshaped
space left between the fur bands are
covered with gray cloth embroidered
with silver. The drapery of the cos
tune cannot be too simple. 1t is best to
cut the upper garment polonalSe, and
to have the fronts set on to the waist
like the skirts of a gentleman's coat.
Another simple street dress was in
light shade of terra-cOtta. The petit
coat and drapery were both trimmed
with two bands of moSS-green cloth
an inch wide. The same color was i'll
troduced on the collar and cuffs of the
waist, which was cut like riding
habit jacket.
The Greek costume" is in special
favor this winter. And as it is my aim
to help those who help themselves Il
will give in detail the leading points OF
this most graceful style of dress. The
petticOat is in velvet or velveteen, and
may be plain or richly embroidered.
The upper garment is cut i'll the back
and on the right side of the waist like
polonaise. but the left front, as far back
as the hip, is made like jacket. The
front of the waist is laid in full plaitS
for three inches down the right Shout
der seam. This gives sufficient drapery
to draw over in graceful folds to the
hip. And it is held in place here with
large roSette of ribbon and inch wide,
or a suitable paSsementerie ornament.
Many house toilets are made with a
deep yoke in a light silk of color con-
trasting with that of the body
of the dress. The yoke is covered
with a network of chenille or silk cord
of the same shade as the material of the
costume. This style is very becoming
to a slim figure. And here is a very
charming but easily-made dinner dress,
one quite within the reach of her who
superintends the making of her own
gowns. The bodice and train are of
rich black brOcade silk. The petticoat
is first a foundation of black silk. Over
this is a full skirt of braided lace, TO
which are lightly attached, at intervals
of four inches, bands of moss green
velvet. some three inches wide, reach
ing from the wrist to the bottom of the
skirt. These bands of velvet are sharply
pointed at the end and finished with
a taSSel of braid. The gathering
of the lace is so arranged that the full
ness comes only between the velvet
pieces; and to give mOIe grace the bands
narrow as they approach the waist. The
easy flowing effect of the whole is added
to by a clever use of braid fringe on the
lace. There are three rows on each
panel, the first being six inches below
the waist. This fringe is not worked
into the braided lace in STRAIGHT lines
between the stripes of velvet, but goes
down and then up again, forming deep
VS.. The waist is cut in front N-Shaped.
At either side of the open neck and
under the V the green velvet and
braided lace are introduced. The newest
thing in the way of outdoor garments
are cloth jackets with large braided
reverS and the vest and Stand-up collar
of fur. l have seen a charming jacket
of blue cloth with chinchilla, also one
in tan with beaver vest. But perhaps
the most jaunty was one belonging to q
brown cloth suit This jacket was made
of brown cloth bound with heavy braid
in which there was thread of gold.
The vest and tight standing collar were
of leopard skin, whose tawny shades
harmonized perfectly with the cloth.
The crowns of the hats have perceptibly
decreased, but the brimS have proper
tionately increased. The favorite shape
seems to be a very broad stiff brim
TUNED up on one side. The bonnetS,
too, are not so high as they were last
year. Fur is favOrite trimming, and
so is grebe, used in facing the bonnet.
There is no indication that the merci-
less slaughter of birds is abating, for
one sees whole hats made oftiny wings,
and all manner of birds in every imagi-
nable distorted position render the fe-
male head-dresS repulsive indeed. 1t
makes one shudder to think what men
must be if the beings who don these en-
biems of brutality are the gentler sex.
But perhaps they show their sympathy
after all with animal life by. Initiating
the dromedary in sporting hump OH
their backs.
Such are the principal impressions
made on my mind. and duly jotted down
in my notebook, during a weeks visit
ing among the chief dresSmSking eStab
IishmentS of this city.
COMTESSE DE JACOURNASSY.
THREE STYLISH HATS.