Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-01-31
COSTUMES AND CUSTOMS.
THE CHANGE AND COUNTER
CHANGE OF FASHION.

y fopith OF the Male ESCort-Ehe In
huence OF the Theatre on Women's
Dress The Paris Costume and the
English Walking Dress Revival of
the M"htiilA Women Who Hand Q
the Foil and How They Dress The
Growth az Common S"use in Fashion
---Premonittols nj spring.
NEW YORK, Jan. %. Newspapers NAV
say what they please. hut fashion does
not have it all its own way nowadays by
3 great deal. The convenience of others
must be considered, or there Is protest
and fiat rebellion. what chance diI any
one stand at The theatres or elsewhere in
the days OF the towering head dresses2
So nigh were they that the roofs Of the
Sedan chairs had to be taken of to allow
the structure TO come through, Now
there is almost social revolution be.
cause the hats aud honnets are three
inches higher than ordinarily. The pendu-
lum always swings TO the other side,
and reactOnary movement has
set In which looks to the removal
oil all mpediments in the way of bonnets
and hats at theatres and in public assem-
blies. Men remove their hats, it Is said.
why should not women! In a public
gathering, where every one has paid
equally, every one has equal rights, and If
men are 10 be deprived of those rights, ont
OF some imaginary need Of concessi ION to a
social idea, Trey will cease to invite wo-
men 10 the theatre; they will cease 10 20
to theatres or public places that women
frequent; they Will separate themselves
still more from the social life of women,
This is what the GROWERS say and they
are quite capable OF carrying 1t out. In
fact. they act on this principle now.
MAunees, which occur once a week, are
crowded with women, no men visible
Evening performances. every day in the
week, snow an average OF five men to one
woman; and the afternoon reception has
taken the place Of the evening party, prin-
cIpallY because it was Impossible for
ladies to tina male escorts.
tn Lyceum theatre has made an heroic
at empJ To induce ladies not only to take
off Their bOnnets in the theatre, but add
brighter touches to their toilets It has
provided a cloak room ana a woman al
tendant ShO furnishes checks and assist
ance when necessary. Great theatie
parties have become feature, the ladies
without DOnuets and 10 more elegant cos
tunes than mas been the rule OF late
years. TWENTY-FIVE or thirty wears
ego theatre dress presented a much
l2hter ana more varied appeara
W bite or li4ht bonnets, made Of
tulle and flowers were de rguer. The
dresses We're demi-tTained and tulle scaris
aud flowers formed the Beck dressing for
young married and unmarried ladies'
while the Older ones exhibited rich lace
capes and bertheS or Hchus. The dress
was much less convenient than it ID to-
day, except for ladies VINO stepped from
tue dinner table 10 the carnage, simply
throwing AZ. opera cloak over their shout
ders. The AEON ion Of the short street
dress has had the general effect OF lower
ing the standard of dress at home
and upon semi-pubic occasiOns-the
temptation to save trouble bV
making no change from the dark. cloth,
street or shopping costume, being in nine
eases out OF Ten 100 strong to be resis ted.
Naturally men follow the lead of women,
and gladly escape the thTaldOm of dress
coat and gloves whenever and under
what preteXt they can. The abstnc of
the bonnet inevitably leads to a different
style of dress. Street costume is not
complete without hat or bonnet. 1t has
insensibly acquired certain distinct
and sober character which belongs TO it.
self and which Is inconsistent with dis
play.
THE PARIS COSTUME.
But the dark. compact, cloth suit is
English in its origin, and has nev5r OBJ
taIned much OF vogue IN Paris, where
walking is almost unknown, except
among those who know nothing and care
less about fashion. There Tia short dress
OF wool. when it it Is no. the straight, Sc
we're black OF the workwOman or the
housekeeper. is a fantasHc "creation"
of the modste. made for the str0lI in the
''Bois," the CAL al the cafe or casino and
the beach promenade. IL ls bound bV no
traditions and by none OF the eXIgencIes
OF active, busy, energetic, English and
American women. I1e French business
woman does not trouble herself about
fashion, except when sue goes out on
SUNDAY then she takes n carriage, can
wear lace IN the park and train, if sue
choose, and is as goOd as the best.
A walking SUIT, on the contrary, worn
by belle or a fashionable woman in
Paris, can never be taken seriously, II
always has the air of a joke, OF make
believe. e is designed to produce an
effect; not TO strengthen or a q a purpOse.
THIS winter, for example, Mr.. Worth is
making snort costumes in lIghtest rink
and paiest blue clOtD, which may be worn
at day receptions. These are trimmed
with silver or bleached fox fur ana with
ostrich feather trimmings in the natural
cOOrs.
Miss McLane wears pink suit OF this
description. aud Mrs. James Brown Pot
ter a gray suit, with wrought silver bells
made by Drut.
A novel effect in embroidery is pro-
duced by mixing silver with black let
upon Rubens brown. Ii is considered
very distinguished. A large Rubens hat
in brown, with silver and Jet net over the
crown, and brown ostrich feather would
accompany such q costume. Felt IS not
now worn in Paris by women of exclusive
tastes. Velvet is used tor bOnnets, or
they are made OF tie embroidery and a
piece Dt the fabric TO match costumes. Jet
is reserved for the large mats OF little girls,
ana then u is what ; called velvet fet;
soft, VITA velvet finish; but beaver is later
and more ELEGANT, even for little girls.
4 NEW LONDON BONNET.
From London has been Introduced into
New York a theatre" bonnet. This
consists OF a small cap crown aud plated
brim Of velvet, lined with contrasting
color or different tint in silk or satin and
tied satin or grUs-grain strings. Tee
crown has an inner stiff lining, which
keeps it in an upright position; but it
is not Injured By being taken oil and neld
in the lap or carried on the arm. 1t is
something like the granny bonnet 70.
girls, IL easily made and useful for long
trips on cars and for steamer wear.
Felt Is much less used here than form.
ery. Beaver has taken its place. The