Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-03-05

texture, the rennement or finish and the
elegance of their cut and fit. They are as
yet only seen in few imported samples,
and they can never become common. for
the cost Is TOO great and their usefulness
TOO limited.
Costumes of cream wool have had an
exclusive vogue for several years past,
but the introduction of delicate, evening
shades into cloth and solid wooden
fabrics marks a new era of luxury, and
the possibilities of charming results for
young. rich and beautiful women. Prob
ably the soft grays and fawn shades Will
una the most favor, as they occupy me-
dunn ground between white wool on the
one hand, and color too lively for the
taste ofthe majority for day wear on the
other, and they make up well in the same
or IN two shades, or contrast most happily
with white kid mounting.
The hats imported for these suits are
sou, nne, white felt, ivory-tinted, oval or
"0oar' shaped, and Ornamented with an
algrette matching the color of the gown,
out fastened with a silver pin or orna-
.ment. The return of the oval and indented
felt marks the downfall Of the high hat
fate for which its exaggeratiOn aad az
gresslVeness predestined it. Ladies who do
not wish to follow fashion to the grave,
or assist in any other way at its funeral,
are warned not to accept a very high
style IN form or trimming for their spring
Donnets, for they are certain to gradually
disappear. The shapes have even during
the winter been much lower, and the bon
net only assumed its eXtravagant height
by placing tall wings and ladders of bows
IN perfectly upright position. Some
times these have no background, but
stand up in front of the structure like
high clapbOard above the single story OF
mountain 'hotel;" only in one case
they are serViceable, for they contain the
name of the hostelry, while in the other
they are mere and an entirely unnec-
essary obstruction.
THEATRE BoNNETs.
Even women begin to see the necessity
for some restriction In regard TO bonnets
worn on public occasions, for they suffer
from them as much as men. Many would
welcome a ''theatre'' bonneU'high enough
to be becoming, low enough not to be an
obstruction, light of weight, so as not to
be burden in the several hours of wear
ing, yet possessing distinction and adapt
ability. The only materials which fulfill
these conditions are JulIe and lace, crepe
and gauze tissues; but these are.capable
of great variation, In addition to the
usual black and white, there are an infinite
number OF tlnts and shades, and a choice
from plain, frosted, dotted ana EN- brOi-
dered tulle to point lace, and from simple
gauZe and crepe to striped and silvered
lace applique and open-worked embrOi-
derry, Stimulating lace.
All these are capable of more diversity
in treatment, and afford field in which
much taste, inventiveness and originality
might be expended. A dress bonnet can
pot, according to modern ideas, be of
large size. Have We no American Virot
capable of fnventing netting like, yet
differing from, the capote, which main
tanned its place for so many years, simply
because GIFTS usefulness and adaptab illty
and long after it had lost the charm and
grace of form which distinguished it as it
came from VirOt's hands!
MILLINERY
for some time past has been most unsatis-
factory. 1t has been diversified in appear
ance but not In reality. Every bonnet
has been mixture. made up of odds and
ends, pfetentIous in appearance but des-
titute of character, of distinct individu-
atty. Within its few inches OF space have
been crowded plush, velvet, satins, beads,
feathers, ribbons, spears, pins, hOrseshoes,
great round balls aud whatever else there
was surface room for. The weight OF
some OF the winter bOnnets made 1t pun.
ishmeDt to carry them; the mixture of
cheap, tlnseled ornamentatiOn gave them
aH appearance of vulgarity, even before
1t assumed the shabby aspect common to
such modes of decoration. 1t Is to be
hoped that this reign of rubbish has
reached climax; that the newness and
freshness OF spring will restore to us more
natural methods. Let women, young
women especially, demand them.
sis 1t necessary for the final advance
ment of women that l should waste my
time and swallow all this bad air?" asked
a lady at a woman's meeting recently. Is
it necessary for any purpose whatever
that we should sacrifice principle, taste.
intelligent sense of what is fit and right
and proper? Certainly not. There are
always examples of the best--or at least,
OF better things. Have them or have
none. If the markets. deiuged with mere
trIcious ornaments. LOOK for fresh violets
and cowslips, for apple blossoms or white
lilac to put on your straw bonnet, and
their sweet suggestiveness Will be worth
more than bushels of tinsel.
The new Straws are as yet but the re-
fleets of the old the later designs have not
yet made their appearance. A m0Gifica-
ton OF the Gaines borou gh-always a
graceful design-is promised, and there
will probably be popular revival of the
sailor hat, SO becoming to some young
faces, and which has steadily maintained
its prestige abroad.
A decided effort will be made to revive
the fashion in artificial flowers; the flower
workers having been deeply distressed
by the continued success summer and
winter-of feathers. But If they would
recreate demand, the artificial flower
makers must return to the careful and
patient maDipulation-the faithful imita-
tons OF natural flowers, which were once
their pride. 1t was the falling away
from these; the substitution OF coarse,
snowy and unnatural effects which killed
the flower trade. 1t is always ques-
ton whether artificial flowers should be
used as ornaments; but il they are, they
must be copies of the real blossoms-not
carlcatures. A famous flower-maker of
Paris used to place the real flower beside
the artificial one, and il the imitation
could be detected-without the closest
eXamination-the work was destroyed.
Satin ribbons have been displaced by
ribbons of faille, with deep and decora-
tive picot edge and clustered stripes on
one half, leaving the other solid. Narrow,
solid ribbons Will also be much used, the
pretty edge adding to their effectiveness,
especially when used in groups OF loops
or clustered bows and ends. Pins have
become an important part OF decorative
resources. The large pins OF amber and
shell for the HAIR are now considered in
dIspensable to the toilet; and instead of
needle and thread, bonnets are made, or
ieweled pins, sometimes real, sometimes
Initiated, from gold and fine stones.
Silver daisy pins, field size, are tavorites,
a a.. .s.... n