The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-07-24
BITS OF FASHION.

Bits OE EASHlUN.
The mania for tight sleeves is over. The
waist is the objective point Of the tight squeeze
in dress now.
The pale-green willow, and chartreuse trim
mings upon cream.white toilets, look refreshing
ly cool this season.
There velvet panels to be found on the
newest dresses. The rich material is still used,
however, for collars and plastrons.
Rumbings of change in the dress coat for
gentlemen are becoming louder, and it is pre-
dcted that long the old time friend. the
claw-hammer, will be laid aside for a newer
friend.
The Algerian striped shawls are still in vogue
with their bourette rough threads of fine wool
and soft silk, to which added some tinsel
stripes of silver of gilt cream white. scar
let black, rose. or French blue.
Flounces are revived for thin muslin gowns
and tucks without number, The only trim
mings used not of the dress material are slight
insertions of embroidery, scallops wrought IN
button hole stitch on the dress materials ana
ribbons or various kinds
Pleated skirts of striped or spricged linen, per-
Gale. bastite for neglige uses are growing
more and more in favor. and are worn at all the
summer resorts, over skirts of various kinds
The deep sailor collar is frequently brar-stitched
with fastdye cotton in red or blue, and the cuffs
are finished to match. A row of small red or blue
bone buttons fastens the blouse down the front
Black failles satin foulards. pop!ins, mores.
and also thinner materials in silk. canvas. eta
mine, grenadine GAUGES, velvet striped and jet
ted nets are all il high vogue Black satln
skirts. draped with brocaded gauze edged with
Chantilly lace and worn with bodices of Chantiy
net, matching in design, make thoroughly elegant
toilets, these ike entire lace gowns in black,
enabling the wearer to vary them by different
colored trimmings and floral garnitures. II de-
sired.
s.Chantilly lace is always black" words
which every woman who asplres to seeming wise
to laces should remember Real Chantllly IS
simply black Brussels, and it's cost is something
to make buyer Perfectly conscious what it IS
Imitation Chantilly is almost any black lace
that it not Spanish, if the shop keepers may be
trusted. They the name for edgings and
web laces resembling dyed Mechlin ana dyed
Duchesse, and also for nondescript things with
point stitches introduced here and there.
The new India silk. grenadine. gauze and satin
sashes, the rage in full dress, are not merely
wide in loop and streAmer, but wide also about
the waist. little care and trouble are neees-
eary to arrange these belts satisfactorily. Inc
broad band is not laid in close tight folds. but
crumpled around the waist as 1t were, and 1t is
ter or. if hooks are not practicable, to use small
safety pins, these hidden away under the soft
fabric after it is adjusted. Obong slides and
buckles are also employed.
Cream and white India silks must be washed
before making up. unless one really desires to
have them ..spot" with water. They gre sized
in man ufacturng and when the sizing is dis
solved, the place whence 1t is removed will show;
but if it be once thoroughly soaked out the ma
terial may be treated as carelessy as white cot
ton cloth. Some persons are always complain
who knows all the trade secrets about them
Tho trouble is that they the mselves are too ig-
norant to wear anything but black cashmere"
Stripes of every description still bold their
high favor in the world Of dress. More than
this they appear TO constitute a typical peculiar
ity of the modes they exist at present. And
much OF the ingenuity of the dress-maker is
lavished upon their proper distribution and the
best way vary what would otherwise be mo-
notony. Simple and easy variety Is obtained by
the modiste (who does not wholly understand
the true French art of the manipulation OF
strpes) in making the skirt and bodice one way
of the material and the tnnic and waitcoat the
other This method is not intricate, but proves
effective.
Among the beautiful summer toilets designed
for watering place lace patterned trans
parent tissues, which continue In great favor
abroad and are still far from losing favor.
These come in all tints, those most favored be-
ing an exquisite shade of bebe blue, new
golden russell, pale terra Gotta. and olive. Not
only piece lace that, sold by the yard is used
for lace skirts. but trimming lace. both wide and
narrow is made to serve the same purpose. The
wide trimming-lac is made into f1ounces which
cover the skirt, set on straight In the back, and
diagonally on the front one of the sides.
Narrow lace is used for the panels, on which the
lace is arranged in shells and cascades, these
interspersed with numerous knots of picot rib
bon either in black, MORE, or in colors. Other
gowns are made with simple double skirts of
founcing the upper skirt caugh up at each side
and falling straight in the back under black or
Romau-red sash