Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-09-24
low WEN WILL DRESS THIS FALL
Underwear, Goats, Hats and shoes.
H FROCK COAT IN FAVOR AGAIN-No DECIDED
CHANGE FOR EVENING WEAR

rom the New York Tribune.
N0.ninaIly the first of september marks the in
ro1uctton of those changes in the fashionIng and
Material OF mems garments which pass under the
lite Of fall styles. In reality, however It is not
Until another month has passed that youthful or
yould-be youthful SoloInons array themselves In
i. their glory and tempt the Indian summer sun
IN Fifth avenue or the windows OF clubs on that
thOroughfare. On the art OF dressing many books
have been written, but no Teufelsdroech has yet
arisen who has satisfactorily solved the enigma OF
''whO sets the fashion" Fifteen or even ten years
ago the young man looked to Paris for his models
Nowadays he yearns for London and it's styles.
But to whom does the youthful Englishman look?
Not as IS often, but enormously said TO the Prince
II Wales, for the prince would not be the perfect
dresser he is IL he did not himself bow to the mys-
JeTfOus one. Fashion, 80 far at least, as men are
concerned, is rather the combined wisdom and
taste or many master-min(ls- Not each man,
but all men," as Mr.. Swinburne phrases 1t with
GeItness.
young man was at the pains the other day TO
find out in what direction this hidden force win
tend during the coming autumn. Starting with
the first principle, underwear, he learned that the
gOrgeOuSneSS or hue which lately marked the
elaborate London hosiery has heen abandoned.
1 he finest OF merinO still prevails the material
English" statesmen now term them, hardly prov
in5 SO comfortable or so warm in the long run,
but The colors are more subdued, fine pin Stripe
or red on white ground being the latest pattern
in these articles Socks for evening wear are, OF
c0urse. stu made OF silk and they are still en-
brJiie.ed In quiet patterns. Embroidery, too,
reaches TO the shirt 'front.' though the plain front
Win three studs Is perhaps, after all, the "best
FORM Tor evening dress. The broad blue and pink
barrel coiored shirt has disappeared, It is to be
hoped forever, certainly until next summer comes,
1or col0red shirt winter is a thing to be alb
horred- Collars are TO be moderately high,
turned down In front in various degrees OF formal
lily or the reverse The cuff is still fastened with
link ana not with solitaire, and the merest line
OF 1t ought to project beyond the coatsleeve
u IN Tod RI
slhS and s,ttiaS. barred with coiored stripes on
dark ground. They are tied In sailors knot, and
the breaStpin, though not as omnfpresent as for
merry, is not yet out or date. Only the smallest
aud plainest however can be fastened in the
upper corner OF the knot.
Actors as a rule dress badly, OIL the stage, at all
events They either dress too much or too little.
marked exception to this rule IS Herbert Kelcey,
the Leading man of the Lyceum Theater. He is
probably the best dressed man In New York, for
no one would accuse the MT. wall who Is so often
SPOKEN OF in connection with the subject OF really
dressing with good taste. A day or TWO after bis
return from England Mr.. Keicey walked up Broad
way on chilly afternoon In u frock coat and tall
Silk hat the coat nt.ed as a frOck coat should fit
and was Worn as one man IN hundred can wear
IL. IL was neither eXaggeraJedly smooth nor
Wrfnkled. IL Is mentioned mere as drawing atten-
tlon To tue TACT that frock coat has once more
resained Its aScendanCy for the afternoon wear
and the cutaway will take its rightful place as an
article Of morning wear only before long. For
other morning Clothes the tailOrS Will use this
season. goods or rOugh-looking surface In broken
checks and stripes or mixed cOiorS. Coats and
"dlStcOdto Will DC cut tflf1e low In the neck, but
the heart-shaped opening is given over to the evil
one in the shape or the ''ready-mader tailor.
trousers are 10 be Wide ever and cut strdish
from the Knee TO the foot. The ridiculous attempt
made To introduce tafess dress coat resulted nat
urdly In failure. IL viii be long before any decided
Change in the dreS, worn alter nightfali is widely
adopted. The dress waistcoat Is to be cut rather
more N-Shaped than formerly; also, it IS 10 be
Judged, on account OF the cheap ta1lOrS. Autumn
overcoatS viii BE- in every shade or twi,lcd goods
and are Singie-breaSted and rather longer than
last year.
In hats there Is a decided change This part of
mans 0reSS owes It's style not to Individual
fancy but TO a trade combination. A man does
not as rule, order his hat to be fashioned in
Particular way, but meekly accepts his hatter's
autumn hat VIII be tritle higher than its prede-
ceiSor decidedly more beilsnaped in the crown
anu with brim decidedly more rolled. The low
nit Tue Dlilyc cock or derby" will be Of medium
height with a brim shaped like that OF its siiken
D:OtheT. The SOU ire-tOpped hat VIII be worn by
comparatively lew and owes its introduction to
the eIiOrlS OF one well-EnoWn halter alone
IhOGgl various shades OF brown Will be worn,
BLACK Viii be N the best taste
In SHOES there Will be practically no change. The
Toe NH b. pointed, Utt no tendency to eXaggera-
ton Is 10 Ue noted. For evening wear u plain
patent-le3ther without toe-cap IL correct While
pce Is TO be worn. All shoes will be laced instead
OI buttoned.
A not ClImportant addition to a mans outdoor
to.iet nowadays ID the stick or umbrella. The for
H!cr Oi tins are large ana tipped with small
KNOB or Two OF silver while umbrellas are shown
OF tulnneSt OI proportions and topped with in
geniously carved handles.