The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1887-02-24
MODERN SYRACUSE.
What Is Left of a Once Famous and Power
ful SicilIan City.

Eui siciIIan City.
1t is somewhat of y relief to reacl
Syracuse after the crowds, and beg
CARS, and smells, and dirt of the othe
Sicilian towns; moreover, Syracuse i
one of the very few places of which tn,
ideal. formed perhaps in years lon!
past, is realized. We look for quiet
and stagnation, and sunshine, and :
mellow air of antiquity, and we fine
them. II we were to find Syracuse :
busy. bustling port, or a wretched
hopelessly decayed place, we should b.
disappointed; we expect to find JUS
enough animation to make it cheerful
and just enough quiet to remind us Of
its ancient associations, and we arr
gratifed.
One fact, however, does amaze us
and that is to see how little is left of ;
city which once consisted of five different
towns, of which the circumference was
twenty-five miles, and which at its zenith
could muster half a million of inhabi-
tantS. Indeed. all Syracuse, ancient
and modern, can be conveniently ex-
plored in the interval occupied by the
Rubattino steamers in discharging and
taking cargo, although the conscientious
antiquary could spend Il month in the
country around. which is the site OF the
! remainder of the ancient city.
Immediately upon landing we are inn
pressed with the character of modern
| Syracuse. At any other Italian port
we should almost be torn to pieces by
natives eager to relieve us of our bag
gage or to drive us anywhere. But at
Syracuse we have actually to call for a
porter. not from any lack of mentor
all along the quay, big enough for a
port with five times the commerce of
Syracuse, there are sturdy fellows loung-
ing, lying, sleeping. and. of course, spit
ting-but because it is evident that labor
is Il very secondary consideration in the
lives of the Syracusans, who. like the
SeafOrl bOatmen. seem to get on toll
erably well without any visible means
of subsistence.
Modern Syracuse need not occupy us
long. There is a pleasant esplanade
along the water-sile of the little har-
Dor, whittier resort every afternoon the
gallantry, the beauty and fashion of
Syracuse, to lounge under the trees. to
drive up and down in the most primi-
live of vehicles, and this esplanade ter
inmates at the famous fountain of Are
thusa. for many years neglected and
employed Is II laundry, now a neatly
feDced-in pool in which fish glide and
ducks nestle under the shade of the
genuine papyrus. In the town which
clusters on the cliffs overlooking the
bav, there is little of note. 1t is an eX-
traordinary italian town, inasmuch as
it is clean and provided with smaller
modicum than usual of stenches, but
otherwise uncomfortable. 1t has Il
cathedral built on to the remains of Il
temple of Minerva, which was once
famous for its splendid decoration and
its beautiful entrace. and more especial
ly for roof of gold which blazed in
the sunshine like beacon to the ma
riner many leagues out at sea. The
sturdy pillars still remain engrafted
with the walls of the modern cathedral,
but nothing more. We must take
carriage to see the sights which lie in
land. for the dust on the roads is inches
deep; there is absolutely no shade, and
the Sicilian sun beats down mercilesSly
from SKY of eternal blue. Happily,
the ruins of ancient Syracuse. after
long years of neglect and vandalism,
are cared for. as are all monuments of
the mighty past, under the intelligent
and sympathetic regime of King Hum
bert, and Government guide, in re-
turn for frame fee, allows us to wan
der where we will.-LOndOn SOcictU.