The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-10-21
Ladies' Department.
New York Fashions.
THE POLONAISE.


In designs revival of the polo
naise is evident, some Paris modistes
have abandoned the basque except
for trained dresses, and the special
feature Of the princesse dress-its
continuous breadths from top to bot
TOMS seen in many ways. The
polonaises most largely imported are
parts of wooden costumes, though
they are also made up of silks. Some
of the models have the corsage cross.
ing to fasten on the left hip, and thus
give full long apron front below;
others have a hand of the contrast
ing material Of the skirt inserted like
narrow panel up the front, making
the fastening there its whole length,
while still others are cut in redin-
cote shape, and left open as tea
gowns are, over flowing front
breadth for the skirt, and vest il
added of the material shown in the
open skirt. A dark copper red cloth
polonaise over a red velvet skirt has
velvet sleeves and high velvet collar
with narrow bands OF velvet up the
front and sides of the very long
apron; there is also velvet bodice
added in the front, beginning in the
side seams just under the armholes,
tapering to point, enriched with
rows of gold and crystal beaded
gimp. and encircled with sash OF
doubled silk. Cashmere polonaise
over skirts of the new heavy cloths
or silks are shown made with fulness
on the shoulders, shirring at the
waist line, sharply pointed apron,
and the back drapery laid IN pleats,
then cut in point like the front.
BAsoUEs AND DRApERIEs.
Basques, however, will prevail
here, notwithstanding the presence
of the polonaise, and are now cut
longer on the hips, being merely
rounded there in cuirass fashion, or
else cut square on the sides, like the
Louis Quatorze coat. with fiat square
pockets, or with long, slender tabs
reaching nearly to the foot of the
skirt. The arrangement of the front
of the corsage is susceptible of great
variety, fancy, which is sometimes
carried to eccentricity, being that OF
making each side different, as fulness
on one shoclder with none on the
other, revers on one 81 lie and drap.
cry on the opposite, or else one side
very much trimmed with embroidery
or ribbons and the other quite plain;
the right side is usually the point d..
appui for single garnitures. A pref.
tier fashion, and becoming alike to
slender and plump figures, is that of
bringing the trimming from each
side just below the armholes, having
it meet in the middle like bodice
or peasant waist; this may be of
piece velvet, or of ribbons, or Of
GALLON laid in VS.. or else the dress
goods may be in bodice shape, with
the upper part of the corsage of a
contrasting material, probably match.
ing the sleeves and skirt. Vests and
plastrons of all kinds are continued,
with the addition of some new ones
The broga three cornered reyers of
the DlreapMe corsage will be much
used, and there are also double re
vers. one set lying fat and short at
the top being made of the material
of the basque, while outside of these
are draped scarf like revers, giving
roundness to fiat figures, and made
of the material of the lower skirt
Wide Breton vests are pretty for
youthful dresses, and now reach only
to the waist line. being embroidered
across the top like yoke, and drap-
ed at the waist line by soft sash or
stiff pointed belt; these are becom-
ing too long-waisted figures, as they
apparently shorten them; narrow
vests and narrower revers are liked
for short waists; or, better still,
braiding, bead embroidery, or galloon
is set on the corsage in lengthwise
tapering designs. The standing col.
lar remains very high, requiring at
least two fastenings, although Paris
ennes are using lower fronts to col.
lar bands. pointing them below the
throat. or else turning over the col
lar all around. The back of basques
is now finished with soft drapery of
bows or points of the dress goods,
except for tailor gowns and the Louis
Quatorze coats, where fiat pleats are
still used.
Using Up Odds and Ends.