Wichita eagle., 1887-11-09
RAMBLES ABOUT EUROPE.
From England to Egypt and the Holy
Land Especially for the Eagle
No. XVIII.

! My last letter lett US III sight OF TINS
/ port. and as the entrance to the harbor is
narrow and somewhat dangerous TO nav
igate, vessels arriving after o'clock are
compelled to anchor outside until the
next morning. We should have been
under the necessity of remaining on
/ board the steamer another night but for
the forethought of Cooks local agent,
who sent yawl, manned by five stall
wart natives dressed in the style peculiar
to oriental countries, who carefully hand
ed Us with our luggage into their
craft, and in something like 80 minutes
landed us at the Custom House, where
we were detained but moment-tLe
examination Of luggage in cur care being
omitted. Usually l am told the search
! for Gutiable articles is quite rigid. 1t
was dark when we quilted the steamer,
and 8 9o'clock by the time we reached the
hotel Khedievel. However, we had a
good opportunity as we drove through
the crowded street, to obtain a first
/. glimpse of oriental life. One always has
strange emotions on setting foot for
| the first time in a land foreign
/ to him. but this feeling is intensified
when the country is remote and Of an Or
/ der Of civilization 50 widely differing
/ from that of his own land.
| There is little at Alexandria to be shown
! the tourist. but as it occupies the position
Of vestibrle, entered before going
further into Egypt and lower Palestine,
ones first impressions of oriental life are
! here conceived, and the strange sights to
be seen in the streets is nov
city enough to compensate for
a lack OF antiquated wonders.
until this novelty has worn off, the trav-
eIer is perfectly satisfied to set in the
shade with the mercury at 90 and let
the unique procession pass in review.
Alexandria contains population Of over
two hundred thousand people, one-fOurth
of whom are Europeans-mostly Greek
and Italian At least 80 per cent of the
male population wear the fez or turban.
The English and American residents do
not adopt this mark Of distinction
and national subserviency, but the
Greeks ard Italians seem to take a
pride in wearing it. The natives
remind me fOrciblv of our American
Indians. particularly the Sioux tribe.
They are tall 1.-the and muscular, and in
passing through crowds Of them | felt
that peculiar sensation that one cannot
resist when surrounded by either Indians
or Chinese. Their complexion is of that
variety OF shade. aptly. though inele-
gantlv expressed in the old time couplet :
Some were black, some were blacker,s
Some were the color of a chaw-tObacker. ="
but the black ones are not properly
Egyptians, they are mostly natives Of
Nubia. The inhabitants of the lower or
der, as rule, go barefoOted, and
hide their nakedneSS with long gown
that reaches nearly to the ankles. 1t is
usually of white material, or what was
once white, though blue, yellow and
black are sometimes worn. The middle
and upper class wear neither garment
Resembling boomers, or of the pattern Of
the knaye trousers worn by a few rGgi-
mentS OF our soldiers during the first
year OF two of the war. A short Jacket,
sometimes a robe, or European coat
with red, yellow or black shoes and tur-
bin or fez completes the picturesque, or
if you prefer it. the grotesque costume.
This description of course applies only 10
the male dress The native women ap-
pear principally III black, with their
features concealed by short veil, and
peculiar arrangement like a double spOo
placed between the eyes. Those of them
whose faces | have seen had tatooed
chins. There resemblance to the tvpe of
humanity known IS ''squaw" is striking.
The children are mostly half naked. dirty
and sore-eved. Blindness is quite preya-
lent, but mendicancy not as common as
in Cork.
The city is just recovering from the
effects of the revolution and lombard
ment Of 1882. What was considered
great disaster at the time is proving to
be great benefit now. | have seen no
where such magnificent buildings under
construction as are nearing completion
In tins city.
we took a drive out to Pompey's
Pillar. which is the leading attraction of
Northern Egypt-in the line of antique
ties. 1t Is a dorice or plain column. with
corinthian capital. and stands on
base of heavy square blocks Of red
granite. The column Is Of the same
material hewn from one block 81 feet in
height. nine feet in diameter at the base.
tapering slightly TO eight feet at the top:
including base and capital il is I04 feet
high, and 10 my eyes far more imposing
than Cleopatra Needle which former
occupied ground here. or the Obelisks
in the Place de Ia Concorde, or the
Thames enbankment.
1t is erroneous to suppose that II was
named III honor of Pompev. the Great.
An inscription shows that il was named
for the Roman prefect Pompeious. who
tiourished some three centuries after the
death of Pompey. who was murdered in
Egypt. Near by the column Is an Ara
blan cemetery of considerable extent. but
the walking was not good and we re-
traced our steps 70 the carriage and drove
along by the border % the grand canal
that brings the waters Of the Nile 'past
the city. Steamers and sailboats
ply on It's waters TO Cairo
which Is distant 12s miles Perhaps the
most striking feature 10 one who sees
this land for the first time. l. the groves Of
tail palm trees. with their dropping
branches of red or yellow dates lust
Tipaning. 1t Is familiar sight here. and
in the court yard Of our hotel as fine
specimens flourish as can be found any
where
Our dragoman escorted Us through
fine garden OF great extent. where there
was the largest grove / have yet
seen. This garden contains also a
large grove Of bananas. We'll laden
with fruit, and all manner of flowers,
trees, shrubs and plants. It is
irrigated by water from the Nile, with
out which Egypt would be as the track.
less desert. Returning 10 the city we
encountered strings az camels heavily
loaded with wool and cotton, also groves
Of little donkeys carrying burdens that