The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1887-05-25
Fabrics and Fashions.

supersede the long light rods and return
to their former pre-eminence.
Fabrics and Fashions.
In "days of old" needlework in all its
varieties, from the plainest sewing to the
most elaborate embroidering and lace
making, was the chief pleasure and occu-
patton of women "of quality" To-day,
really accomplished needlewoman is rarely
to be found, although most ladies have,
during the dry, more or less time in which
they are left without other employment.
The employments to which taste and in
dustry in needlework may be devoted in
embellishing home surroundings are with
out number.
Lambrequins, chair scarfs, embroidered
screens, covers for Bullets, center tables,
ETC., handkerchief cases, card and match
receivers, and similar pretty articles can be
produced during leisure hours, and if
wrought with delicacy and taste. they great
~ add to the appearance of room.
A very handsome pair of window lam
brequins may be made of plush embroid-
cred in floss silks. The plush is cut deep,
and squarely at each end, but is slashed SO
as to form a triangle in the center. Sprays
of roses, with leaves, are embroidered on
the ends, and along the edge chenille
>
here and there add to the effect.
Dainty handkerchief cases can be formed
of card board covered with satin, on which
hand painted or embroidered designs have
been wrought. On the inside the satin is
quilted.
Tailor made dresses are now as popular
as they were last fall. They are more
deliberately trimmed for summer wear than
they have previously been seen. They are
fashioned in lightweight materials and
lined with twilled silk. On these dresses
the tournure is completed by the intro
duction of two skirt steels beneath the
drapery, and higher up than has previously
been the case. Where hustle is worn, 1t
is very light affair, and not at all uncom-
Portable TO the wearer.
A very attractive evening costume (Which
/ may as we'll describe, for there are n few
more nights of dancing left be ore the out
Of town exodus occurs), recently noticed,
was in cream satin, made with wide wing
draperies, which left exposed front panel
on the skirt, deliberately worked with pearl
beads. On the pointed bodice diamond
shaped plastron of lace joined the V of the
corsage at the top, and the point of the
garment at the lower end. The corsage
opening was edged with lace which also
formed the short sleeves. On the shoulders
knots of tea roses were placed, and a clus-
ter of the same flowers was negligently
placed at the waist. The lady was a bru-
nette.
II was formerly believed the most perfect
taste for bridal costume TO be made
severely plain and simple, both as to pat
tern and material. White satin was usually
employed with lace trimmings. The we'd
ding toilet of the present season, how
ever, exhibits fdille as the leading fabric,
but this material is only used in conjunc-
ton with brocaded velvets, or pushes and
similar goods, so adding to the costliness
and ma2nificence of the dress. The flowers
for the occasion are orange blossoms, but
instead of a bouquet the bride must carry
her pIayer-book in her hand, in order to
conform to an English custom that has
come into vogue on this side of the ocean.
The tulle veil is worn in preference TO one
of lace, formerly fashionable, and Its
! length is almost entirely a matter of indi-
vidual taste: with a trained gown, it is
usually worn so as to flow over the train
behind, but it should always leave the face
exposed. 1t is quite prevalent fashion TO
be married in ones travelling dress, which
is more convenient when the wedding tour
begins Immediately after the ceremony.
The very brightest and prettiest ging-
hams, in many hued stripes, and all kinds
of light summer fabrics, in figures and
stripes, or plain colors, are seen for chill
drens dresses and the Liliputians will be a
gayly dressed legion during the coming
season, if one can judge from the models
and materials shown already.
One dress for little girl of eight years
is in a light-brown sage, trimmed with
dark red velvet facings, collar and cuffs,
and with cashmere vest in light-b blue.
The skirt is plaided, made on the bias, and
laid in very broad box plaits.
This dress can, Of course, be developed
in more expensive materials for wear upon
special occasions. AS described, it will do
excellently as a school costume, and for
wear at home during the afternoon.
Fancy basques for wear at home are
seen with loose gathered or plated vests
of soft material. Some of these basques
have broad revers of striped silk, which
give them bizarre and jaunty appearance.
handsome demi- toilet in blue faille,
almost of the tint termed ciel-blue, was
trimmed in peculiar manner with bronze
passementerie, bands of which were drawn
from the shoulders, beneath the arms, and,
meeting on the back, formed an inverted
V, reaching 10 the collar, which was also
of the passementerie. Bows of dark blue
satin ribon decorated the front of the dress,
which was made with very short dividing
front draperies, carried back so as to drape
over the hips. On one side of the skirt,
bands of the bronze bead-work were laid
horizontally, disappearing beneath the
back draperies.