Barton County democrat. [volume] (Great Bend, Kan.) 1885-1915, 1887-10-06
RAsoUES FOR WINTER.
Novel Styles Designed by New YOrlk's Lead
ing DresSmalkers.

ing Dressmakers.
The new basques are noticeable for
heir elaborate front trimmings, many
Of them beng draped full from the
shoulders down, even though made Of
heavy cloth or other thick fabric. The
full surplice effect is used even when
there is a vest or plastron, and the
Greek drapery coming from the right
shoulder to the left side of the waist is
seen on supple woolens, on silks and
on velvets. 1t is no unusual thing to
see cloth or camel s-hair basques with
three large plaits on each shoulder
;apering to the merest edge of folds at
The waist line, with the space filed in
with gathered or plated silk vest, or
with one of velvet or plush, quite
smooth, but richly embroidered or dec
Orated with passementerie. Shirred
cloth fronts are also made with clusters
Of gathers at the top and at the waist
line, yet are not clumsy, as they are
well held in shape by points and "
shaped vest of steel or silver cord pas
sementerie; there are also yoke fronts
Of the heaviest velvet with the wool gath
cred on the lower edge. Some pretty
bodices without vests are gathered all
across the top of the front, on each
shoulder, and below the collar, and
this fulness is held below by pointed
girdle that shapes the end of the bodice.
The dress-coat collar rolled low beside
vest is seen on French costumes as
we'll as on English gowns and jackets, -
and promises to be popular, because its
graceful outlines can be varied TO suit
Il i 9
Vests of silk are draped in diagonal
folds in the way thinner silks were
used during the summer. Velvet,
however, remains the favorite ma
terial for the vest and standing
collar, or at least for the front of
the collar, while the back is of
wool like the basque. Oddly shaped
revers are made of the dress goods
sometimes by tapping it in a single
three-cornered shape on the left at the
top. and again by turning it back on
the right side. A simple design for
Cheviot or cloth basques has the fronts
nearly meeting over n band of velvet,
and held together by ball buttons at
tached to the ends of bits of soutache
an inch and a quarter in length. passed q
through button holes, row of but
ton holes being worked along each
edge of the fronts. This is prettily
shown on a brown, red and blue mixed
Cheviot over a brown velvet band,
with brown buttons and soutache; the
position back has buttons and holes
for its trimming, and the cuffs of the
coat sleeves have ten or twelve but
tons in pairs up the outer seam. The
back of the basques is by each of the
four forms being doubled below the
waist line, shaped into leaf points,
faced with contrasting material, and
edged with braid. In many dresses
the back drapery of the skirt is hooked
up on the middle forms of basque,
which slopes out gradually over the
tournure. The pointed girdles that.
trim the front sometimes extend only
to the darts, but are most becoming
when reaching back to the under-arm
seams Passementerie ornaments form
this girdle on rich dresses, while others
are merely of the velvet used in COM
binatiOn, or of the striped fabric seen
in the skirt Coat sleeves of easy-fit-
ting shape, with very simple cuffs, are
on dresses of thick stuffs. Small round
crocheted and basket-woven buttons
fasten French dresses, with sometimes.
buttons of much larger size set about
for ornament only, or perhaps to hold
q single revers, or to define the waist
--HGTper's Bazaar.