Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1887-02-12


- oSoa Saseo
Adspsv's Bazaar sayu that the use OF
plush hoD become % general that Il IL now
seon even On evening toilets for young ladie~.
Two kinda of plush are sometimes employed
On one dreaA For instance . costume of
some hne woolien fabric hsa on the side or
mont Of the akiit wide panel OF fancy plush
panel, 10 b0rdered down the side where II
opens BY band Of plain plush. The plas.
tron OF the waist and the cuffs are OF fancy
velvet The lower Part Of the waist Is
trimmed with plush. The bretellcs, which |
become narrow toward the lower part, and
l the ofy1cer's collar. are OF plain plush. Very
| simple toilets have only the plastron and col.
/ lar OF plush. There IL also 9 way OF trim.
ming the skirt to give It the effect OF . full |
plush underskirt This consists In having q
large panel, with triple plsits on either side.
/ Tho plaits are Of the same goods ~ the |
dresA
Galloon IL now employed on all parts OF |
/ toilet. 1t IL consequently manufactured In |
great varieties There Is cachemire gsiloon
worked on silk etamine galloon In relief /;
beaded galloon In colors ana Of pearl beads
only, and galoons In all hues to match the
dresses on which they are used. Galloon
l called "plume neige Is employe cd on small
i dresey outer garments and for large car.
l riage cloaks. Ii il Of feathers in all colors.
Il
/ garments, but also for trimming the sides Of
| underskirta 1t forms leugthwise stripes
called :" bay sdere" stripes. Galloon also
l serves for waists which are set in shape,
back and front. Sometimes the trimming is
/ arranged TO initiate q sailor collar. A very
| neat I" garniture " consists Of loops of galloon
turning upward to form collar, and similer
/ loops turning downward around the lower
| part Of the waist The same trimming sur.
! / rounds the sleeves. Ribbon Is used in rs
great proiusion as galloon and Lace Whole
! panels on skirts are covered with small iip.
bon bows. Bows with long ends terminate
| with tags Of beads or OF light passemsnterie
(: | work. When wide ribbon Is taken around q
pointed waist 1t is tied on the side In several
/, / loops with long ends. Very wide ribbon Is
! usually Of fsille, while the narrow bows are
. | preferred when Of satin or OF MORE.
Black velvet dresses continue to be In
d | style, a. they are useful for ladies who go
l. very little In society, rs well as for these who
, i are constantly at balls and entertainments
~ With two waists this toilet serves for all o.
. l casionA The skirt Is round and the traiu IL
q l added to It These dresses generally have
j. ! little black or colored jet trimming to Gu
IL tighten the sombre effect Of the velvet The
at / skirt may be plain on the sides aId open In
ie front over a large apron OF black gsuzs OF
. grenadine, covered with jet beads in various
y, designs Grsnadine IL used for this purpose
y. | a. 1t requires q strong texture to bear thu
g. / weight Of the beads. This grenadine may b
ali l over black or colored satid or faille. Whei
ara the beads are In such shades as old gold, dsri
,r blue, violet, heiiotrope, garnet, &c, then tn,
~ i lining is in the same shade as the beads.
/ light drapery OF the work 10 taken around
tor lower part by q twisted piece Of wide ribbon
~ The high. necked waist has small pieces o
W. jet work, which can BE removed FOR the
Dg ! waist to be open in 'front.' The sleeve ter
inmates below the elbow and is trimmed
roo / with Jet work. This sleeve may be also o
@ o@9 the tulle over the arm, while the under par
S sS l 10 of velvet.
900 Gloves worn with ball dresses are no
i quite a. long as they have been they nov
ooO ! terminate below the elbow. The favoret
| color for undressed kid gloves is light pink
w OF flesh tint All light shades are worn
on however. For demi-toiiettes the light shades
:, i OF putty continue in vogue as they CORES
ne nc pond with dresses OF all colors. Long b!sci
~, gloves OF dressed kid, b,rdered with a banC
DO / OF fur, are used with black toilets OF velvet
". | satin and beaded lace
ac. Waists cut low In tchu sty lie are much useC
IN / for ball dresses. Velvet and plush waist
matching the skirts are trimmed with I'm
lace They open square or in heart shape IL
pe i front, and close by means OF = kind Of " cor
be selet" OF another material, which may b
ID, i white or colored. The corselet Is OF lam pas
cir / Of brocade worked with beads, or of piec
"a of fine embroidery with the design surround
~ ] cd by threads OF gold or silver. A lace tichl
nc IL crossed and taken in under the corselel
TO / II "guimpe" OF tulle or lace replaces tn
fchu, 1t Is arranged In the same way
Sleeves are profusely trimmed with lace
Some of them are open, with the lace show
ing In several places through the open part
Il u
outside OF the arm. Waists are often pointe
on the border Of the basQues, with lac
to | ruff1e coming from underneath to prod uc
,ut | the effect Of q lace vest with basque show
,in | Ing between each space left by the points
,a Hair Dressing.
nn The hair is still dressed high on the head
.c though there are some exceptions to this rule
ae, 1t Is usually brushed up from the back an
tho twisted on the top Of the head, where 1t is il
,o,, | regularly fastened on either side. Fanc
srs pins Of steel and light shell are among III
su hair In such designs az palettes, wheel
Tiny combs stars and crescents. sma
ur- piece of hair II slightly turned up over esc
lus temple In Spanish styla This very youthfu
nts and rather japanese way OF dressing the ha
OF is, when skillfuily arranged, both pretty an
re- / becoming. A coitfure suitable for a dinne
vas | or theatre party Is to arrange the hair yer
10 | high In the back. twisting it on the top /
ng the shape OF the fear de lis. On one side
om | the coiffure Is pin Of light shell. There
ips also worn in the hair an sigrstte surrounds
cal | by tuft Of white plumes. "cotlure'' fo
lar ball includes light pufis above the f1rehes
INT | and short curls over 1t. On top of the head
bunch OF mauve and corn .colored LOOP
og with an aigrette and diamond crescent In til
we ! centre.
re- For Mourning Dress.
Fas Henrietta cloth remains the favorite rnate
he ial for the first dresses worn az deep mourn
he ing during ths greater part OF the year
no | may be had so finely woven that the twill
IAN on is surface are scarcely visible to tn
hat naked eye. but 1t is also found Ia vsriou
en- | qualities to suit limited purses Englis
~. | Grape is used altogether for trimming tn
ed | first dresses in deep folds, revers, vests an,
81 ] panels; Pleatings OF the Henrietta cloth ar
] no longer used, as they add greatly to tn
no | weight, and detrsc. from the simple and Sc
ria | we're style of the dress Imperial serge an,
les other wide diagonal fabrics are liked 10
street suits, while camel's hair and cachemir
M ms des Indes are chosen by those who like softe
st. | stuffs
nd Cheviots and smooth cloths entirely It'll
1ne 1ne | out facing are made up in tailor fashion 70
~ | winter and spring suits for the streets. Woo
lse stufis, initiating English Grape with its dee
- crinkles, are shown In great variety, ais
!e armure woolens and fabrics that iintat
~ China Grape, but the preference here ia al
ay | ways for twilled surfaces, either ia the snor
70 irregular twill, or in the wider dIayons
n | Lines OF serges
~ An excellent model for dresses OF Henri
90 eta cloth has the lower skirt represented b
OF q separate fall OF the cloth attached to tn
foundation skirt of silk or of alp.cs an
he trimmed by wide fold of English Grape sc
e. on three or four inches above the edge. Thi
OF fold may be deep enough TO represent
le. | lower skirt OF Grape.
bt House dresses OF Grape have q dem-traine,
q. skirt full and straight In the back, with dsel
60 drapery In front cut out in points or scallop
ng that are lined with silk and side panels ri IN