Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1887-09-25

TO fish. He was very friendly, and l
game him cigarette, which he was
unable to manage until | showed him
how il was to be lit aud smoked. He
pulled away with delighted grin upon
bis wien ape-like face until finding
that it disappeared very fast, and that
il was not as strong as his pipe, he
threw the cigarette on the ground, and,
lighting his pipe, staggered off along
the wharf. He had, like other Laps,
q Mopgolian cast of features. with small
almond-shaped eyes and high angular
cheek bones and these, with his bow
legs, made his appearance suggestive
of two triapgles, one above the
other. He wore thick, heavy pointed
shoes Of leather and colored bands OF
worstCd about his ankles, AMI black
greasy leggins OF whale-skin fitted his
limbs rs tightly rs If they were OF his
own hide He had n great coat OF rein
dcer-skin with the fur half worn away
and girded in at the waist with many
colored beaded belt, from which hung
white bonc-handled knife. On his
head was set high pear-shaped cap OF
blue cloth trimmed with red aud yellow,
Utmost like an empty bag, which for
some reason stood up pertly IN the air.
From under the cap his long, wiry
black hair hung down sallow, greasy
checks. which he had chosen 20 shave
smooth, though other men Of his kind
wear boards Of every description OF
horror.
There were no Lapp women to be
seen IN Hammorfest, but You may see
them in numbers at their encampmsnt
on the hills behind Tromsoe, whittier
yOu are conducted on horseback by
guide, who regards your curiosity about
these children Of dying race with the
same contemptuous tolerance with
which cowboy would view an interest
manifested in the red "Injin" OF the
West. You there obtain a view of part
Of herd OF reindeer, which run about
m inclosure with knees cracking like
electric sparks, and il you are able to
stand the heat You enter the hut, conf
cal shaped, of turf and straw, lined
with rcindcer-hidc, and Int ten
feet in diameter, whore tgO or
three families live together and
perform all the operations Of exist
ence ike beasts Outside the hut there
were men Offering to sell bone knives
and purses Of fur; inside, lying about
q tite, there were dogs and children il
furs, looking ike bear cubs. And
dressed in the same way rs the men,
hut better appearing, with eyes farther
apart, and healthy red and brown in
their checks, there were women ready
70 sell everything they possessed, even
TO cut silver buckles of Of their
collaborating save the papooscs
which they carried in leather cradles
slung over their backs, and offers OF
ten crowns for which they rejected with
an amused smile. There was, hOWeyar,
something suggestive Of the show
al out this encampmcnt ;theinhlbiMnt'
Of It were evidently Well used I'd beng
wondered at by strangers. Iros)lyaj o.
follow my fiIcnd, Of whom / made
mention above, IN hopes 20 hc 'c5 iap
ai,l other manners Of the iapp world.
II was not long before / was injce!
surprised. / saw hiu enter 40 c,tll-
li.Lmert which Was styled The G,s-
tauuut Of the apps lie was 'n
search o.. breakfast. and / though, /
should hc paIdoOed II / pursue him
lts..c the door ot tha Place ii vl'
l.sn-to sired against tle wlu Of % more
Irctentious IailI.nr. a i.t,la li-htclna
through % window in tae rlof, amt u
cuc corner was the bi,zng fire
o. stove. From these two
sources there played th' most
strange effects OF cai'r0e.ur) oyer
tie erotssGuc figures OF many
Laps sitting Ia the semi-tylirlt a.
little tables enjoying coffee and oiall !
There vac smoke from tie STOW, in the |
air. Among her cust0ner5moved fear /
lcsslv little paie-iacod woman, tl3 !
owner OF the place. On the door We're |
ftrewn white sand aud fragrant green |
twigs If juniper. The lady evld ntly /
"Mew her iappcnLeimer the juni- |
per twips were au attempt TO utrallza |
the peculiar and s'ckeiIny stencil which |
proceeds from the biUbborstaiue ga !
meut- of every Lapp. An attempt but !
partially successful f0c / soon found |
myself obliged to retire 60 tho street |
This, however, was, ! wei knew,
nothing better than to escape from
the fire into the fryiug-pan. Ehe |
streets Of Hammcrfcst are almost rs |
offensive from the aroma OF col-llyor |
OIL. As I walked along the wharyes !
net q gentleman with red face AMI |
lcng white hair, who, from his well cut !
black lroadci0tn clothes and his shining |
silk hat, take to have been the mayor |
or dignitary of the place. He saw that |
! was a stranger aud he touched his hat |
and wished me 4 gOod-moruing in Ger /
man, and tlen with an apologetIc air, |
as if be wished ne g. understand thAt |
he at least had travelled and knew bis /
world, ne said without further prelude /
"lhe uoli,st and stink.ngest town Of /
EuroYe this" And 1 could not explain /
to him why 7 did lot altogether agree |
with the remark.
Since leaving Hammerfest Yesterday |
I have accomplished a pilgrimage to |
what may be styled the Mecca OF the /
yoyapcr to Norwegian shores. 1 have /
stCu the sun az midnight from the /
North Capo. 10 would be presume |
tuOr pm which should attemYt to de-
scribe e scene about which Thomas /
Carlyle. who never saw it ] om told, !
has had lis say, but / cannot refrain |
from an attempt to express it rs 10
seemed 10 me, even 10 the risk ot |
Gc.n1 not! ing moie tAan to FALL into |
mn Uudicniiied ht OF what the Ger /
mans call .NchwrmcFci. The cape /
when / first saw it at IL. O'Clock at |
night on tue 18th Of July lives in my |
memory as "a huge, hagglrd, black |
rock cliff, round which low mists We're 1
blowing. II was Wedecd-shlped, with |
a cleft, and in the cleft there lay SIN /
gle patch Of snow. The liue Of the /
cliff against the sky from the east had /
the pIoGle Of sulien face. From be- /
low there jutted ont suddenly great /
black tooth of rock, and other prOiec- /
tons took on the appearances OF weird |
and awful figures OF Egyptian sphinxes /
and gods, aud in the cove where the
ship anchored the rock lines were eaten F.
into forms of Wild beasts heads, with |
tuSEs and fanoqs starting forth half !