New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-09-18
HOW MEN WILL DRESS THIS FALL.
UNDERWEAR, COATS HATS AND SHOES.

THE FRoCK-COAT IN FAVOR AGAIN-No DECIDED
CHANGE FOR EVENING WEAR.
N0minally the first OF September marks the introduc
ton those changes In the fashoning and material OF
mems garments which pass under the title OF fall styles
In reality. however II is not until another month has
passel that youthful or woud-bc youthful Solo mons
array themselves all their glory and emit the lniian
sumner In Fifth ave- or tine windows OF cluos
OF that thorougnfare On the art OF dressing many
books been written. but Teurcsdroech has yet
arisen who has satisfactorily solved the enigma OF who
sets the flshon" Fifteen even ten years ago tho
young man looked TO Paris for his models. Nowadays
he ycarns London aud its styles But 10 whom does
the youthful Englshman look Not ~ is often, but
enormously sal - the Prince Of Wales for the Prince
would not perfect DIRE he is II he did not him
self mysterious Fashion. far at least,
rs concerned il rather the combined wisdom
and taste of many minds " Not each man, but
oil men," rs SIR. swinhurne phrases It with neatness.
A young az the pains the other day to hnd
our I'm what direction this hidden force will tend during
the coming Starting with the first principle,
underwear he learned that the gorgeousness OF hue
which la,ly marked the elaborate London hosiery has
been abandoned. The finest OF merinD still prevails IA
the material silk drawers AMI shirts or snsles," rs
the English statesmen now term them. hardly proving
so comfortable warm IN the long rum but the
coors more sIbluei. fine pin strip, OF red on a
white rOdnl being the laos. pattern IN these articles
Socks for evening wear are OF still male Of
silk and they are st cmbro!lcrc1 in qWet PATTERN
Embroidery too reaches the shirt front though tho
plain 'front.' with three stuls is perhaps. after all. the
best form for evening dress The broad blue aui
pink barred colorcd shirt has disappeared it Is to be
hoped forever, certainly until 'Nt summer comes for
coiorci shirt in Is a thing TO bo ab1Orrci Col
lars are De moderately high. turned down In front In
various degrees OF formllity the The Gun
Is still fastened with lux with solitaire and
line Of IL oaht to pro ,ct beyond the coat
sleeve Seckc just imported are OF RIGA dark ooored
silks and sns barred with coiorcd stripes on dark
ground. They tiei in sLlDrs knot AMI the breast
PIN tho "a Omn present aslorn;ry. Snot yctOlt
OF date Only smallest an1 paiue't. however. can
be fastened IN the upper OF The knot
Actors a rule dress ba Iy, OF the stage. at all
events They either dress too much or too little. A
marked exception TO this rule Is Herbert Kelley. the
leading man Of the Lyccuu Theatre He Is probably
the best dressed man in Ncw-York for no one would
accuse the Mr.. Wall who is often spoken OF in
ton subject OF really dressing with good taste
day after his return from England Mr. Kelley
walked up Broadway chilly afternoon In a frock
coat and tail silk hat The coat fitted a frock coat
shonli N and one man In hundred can
II. II neither eXaegerl'edy smooth nor
wrinkod Is mentioned here. drawing attention TO
the fact that tho frockcoat has reganel its
ascendeney for afternoon wear aud the cutaway VIII
take its rightful place article OF morning wear
ouly before long For other morning clothes the taIlos
will this goods Of rougnooking surface IN
broken checks and stripes or mixed colors Coats and
wasicOas Will bc cut trinc low In the neck but the
heart shaped opening Is given to the evil one in
the shape Of the ready made tailor Trousers are 10
he wide AMI cut straight from the knce to tho
foot. The ridiculous attempt male to Introduce tail
less dress GOAT resulted naturally IN failure II will DO
long before any decided change In the dress after
night fall II widely adopted The dress walscoat ~ 10
be rather Nshaped than formerly also IL IL to
bo judged account Of the cheap tailors. Autumn
OvcrcOais will DO in every shade of twicd goods and
single breasted and rather longer than last
In hats there Is n decided change This part Of n
mans dress its style not To- individual fancy but to
a trade combination man doe' not. as a rule, order
his nat Ia he fashioned In particular but meekly
accepts his matters ruling and what he dictates
Ihis year the autumn Ill he triiio higher than
Its predecessor decidedly m0re beshape1 In the crown
and with brim decidedly more rolled The low hat.
the billy cock derby, will he OF medium height
with brim shaped like that OF its sken brother. The
square-t0ppcd hat will bo worn ny comparatively few
and owes It's Introduction 10 the efforts OF we'll
known halter alone. Though various shades OF brown
will be WORK. black will be In the best taste.
In there will practically change. Tho zoe
will be pointed but tendency 10 cXaggeration Is TO be
noted For evening wear plain patentleather With
out toecap Is correct, while for day wear the same
leather with plain toe piece Is TO be worn All shoes
Will be laced Instead OF bIttoncd
not unimportant addition to maa's outdoor toilet
nowadays h the stick umbrella. The former OF these
large and tipped with small knob or two fsyer.
while umbrellas shown or thnnest OF proportions
and topped with ingeniousy carved handles.