Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-08-27

Scenes i'm the Land Of the Aztec and
Spaniards


Correspondence of The EVENING STAR.
CITY OF MEXICO, August IL.
Returning to Santa Fe we held consultation
and decided to take flying trip to the City OF
Mexico, and or we started, though with some mis-
givtngs, as rumors were afoat Of an instruction
| in Chihuahua against the general government.
Notwithstanding the advice to all Americans to
keep out Of Mexico during revolution, we
started only to meet with the utmost courtesy
| though the Mexicans do not love US "Americanos
d1abieS" as much or as fraternally as the 0lplo-
matte correspondence between the two countries
would lead one to suppose. Arriving at HI faso'
Texas we left the cars in order to enjoy the nov
city OF riding in street car from the United states
| to MeXicO-in a bob-tailed car drawn by cur
tailed mule Arriving in a few minutes at FL Paso
del NOrte old Mexico, we felt that the Stars ana
Stripes no longer noated over u.s. and on every sue
met the gaze OF fierce black eyes under Deetllng
brows OF swarthy Mexicans OF every hue from the
black to the almost white complexion. AT every
republic who are condemned to serve In the ranks
| OF the army for all ofIenses against person OF
property instead OF In the penitent1ary, Where
they belong. The officers. however, are enliXn Might
ened, educated men, many OF the best families
being represented by them, and by them we were
always hw conrteously treated owing, presume 70
PasO del NOrte Is chiefly noted for its old cathedral
built OF sun-dred bricks and whitewashed. AS for
minutes was sufficient, we continued our journey
without accident or incident excepting IN one In
stance.
CHEERFUL INCIDENT.
Creeping along at about II miles an hour, we saw
| Mexican on horseback riding toward the train.
When near enough he threw rock which crashed
into our car. In an instant we heard pistol SHOT
from the rear car and we were just In time TO see
horse galloped Off minus the rider. The shooting
was said to have been done by Mexican officer In
the rear car AS nothing was heard OF the matter ate
afterward we concluded 1t must be So as an Amer
lean would have been severely dealt with. we
were very careful to make no inquiries noticed
our pace was increased, and we flew along TO chi
| huahua where quarters had been prepared for us
in the family OF resident American as the hotels
or lodging houses are abomnable, and the eating
| refreshing nights rest we visited the town, going
first of course, to the cathedral, one OF the most
picturesque editices in Mexico. built of cut stone
or light color, and having two towers and a
dome. The structure cost $500 900, and was erected
entirely from fund raised by taxing the produc-
ton OF the silver mines in the vicinity There Is
also mint, where the coinage Of silver dollars is
always going on. II is here that Hidalgo, the
great revolutionary leader, was captured, imprls-
headed. The bells In the tower Of the cathedral,
pierced with great cannOn-ball holes, are melnen-
toes or that event. Many Americans are living
here connected In most instances with the mining
interests though there are some whose return 10
the United States might occasion unpleasant re-
elimination. Amid the loud vivas OF sundry
Mexican gamins we continued our journey.
Zacateca, our next stopping place, the Oldest mini
ing town OF Mexico, hourishing In 1885, Hes at an
region, and has population OF about 46, 600. The
mines bear evidence Of centuries Of work, and
since 16OO have produced more than 81 900 600
MEXICAN WATERING PLACE.
On to Aqua Galleries, the favorite watering
place of the Mexican elite. Here we first began to
ankles captiyated us all ladies included. The two
Old bachelors OF our party fell sick simultaneously
qt may have been prearranged), and thought their
health required q prolonged stay, to enjoy the
baths OF warm medicinal water, springs OF which
spout up In every direction This place has a fine
column, erected TO the memory OF the Emperor
IturDide ana many picturesque churches. Our
time being limited, our wardrObeS meager, our
Old bachelors sufficiently recruited, we continued
our journey. passing through Lagos, with its fine
old Cathedral, and arriving at Salamanca, where
we rOund many characteristic features OF the
Mexican people, In groups OF various occupations,
one OF the principle being that OF the aguadore or
water-carr1er. In no two places does he seem to
follow the same methods in distributing his stock
In trade always figuring prominently, In every view
large Cities always ragged, barefoot and cheerful,
his greatest ambition TO be the possessOr OF "a
through without stopping over the city OF Qua
najuatO, capital Of the State OF the same name,
one OF the great mining centers OF Mexico, situ-
ated at a high altitude, built on narrow gorge
between mountains, the street paved with cObble-
stones, and as picturesque as Swiss village that
in many respects 1t resembles. On to Queretaro
founded in 1881, upon the site OF an Aztec city
evidently OF great antiquity. 1t has many ediiceS
we'll paved streets, and surrounding country
dDOunulnS Ill NcdlIu. Iuo water
supply is brought into the city by stone aque-
duct, some OF the arches OF which are 80 feet
high. Four miles from Queretaro is the great
Hercules cotton mills costing 100000, citadel
in strength and resembling one, enclosed by mas
sive high walls, lOOphOled for cannons and guns
The mills give employment to 400 wOrknen and
women. CerrO de los CampanOS is a small emil
hence in the suburbs OF the city. 1t Was here, on
the spot marked by monuments, that the unfortu-
nate Macmillan, with his companions, MiramOn
and Mejia, were Shot on the 18th OF June, 1867.
THE GREAT DRAINAGE CANAL.
In crossing the low hills which enclose the valley
OF Mexico on the north, we pass alongside OF the
great drainage canal or NochiStOngO, one OF the
greatest hydraulic operations OF man. Frequent
foundations OF the City or Mexico taught the
Spaniards that the system OF dykes was INSULT
cient TO protect the capital, and 1t was decided
work was commenced in 1907, and in 1908 a tunnel
was completed through the hills. IL was found
too small, and soon 1ed from the caving in OF the
surrounding earth. Then Was commenced the
gigantic Undertaking OF making an open cut, or
canal. For over Two centuries this work cOntin-
ued, but was never entirely finished 1t is now
over II miles ions and at the highest point nearly
200 feet In perpendicular depth. on we Sped
and In the CHANGING rays OF a setting sun, far
cathedral in the City Of Mexico, aud in few mo-
ments the cars stop, and amidst babel OF tongues
Yer Under 1he Sran eeeac eh anS
over ll-paved Streets are driven to the '.IJur-
bide Hotel, built for monastery. massive as u
fortress and as dark and dingy as jail. Separat-
Ing to our rooms, veritabe cells used by the
monks who built the monastery, IL our dreams
were not OF cOwled CHASTITY visitors, it was be-
cause we were too tired
THE CITY OF MEXICO
Is built on what was formerly an island in the
lake OF TexcOcO and on the site OF the ancient AZ
tee city OF TenOchtitlan. 1t is in the center OF
valley :3S miles In extent In which are six lakes
all OF which are salt but one. These lakes are re-
ceding, SO that Texcoco, which formerly OCCASION
ally rose so as to 1nundate the city, IS now some )
miles away. The population Of the city is about
2OO, 600. AS In all Mexican cities the prominent
architectural feature Is the cathedral, imbedded
in the wall OF which IS the Aztec calendar stone
This cathedral Is said TO be the largest In North
America, covering space 432X2O0 feet Com
menced In 1873, on the site of the Aztec TeocalIe
and destroyed by Cortez, 1T was completed In 1867
at cost OF 81, 100000. From its tower 200 feet
high, magnificent views Of the city are to be had.
The palace Is built on the site OF that of Montezu-
ma. IL contains all the principal government
offices, the national museum, and the government
monte de pieta, or spawn shop" where the eyes OF
the antiquarian can feast on swords armOr
precious stones and relics OF all kinds and where
the purse OF the millionaire could be depleted.
THE GUADALUPE CATHEDRAL
OF the suburbs the most noted Is that OF Qua
daloupe, with its cathedral which has solid sill
yer railing three feet high, from the choir
to the altar, and extending around the same
and back again to the choir, costing 500, OOO On
the altar, probably the richest in gold and precious
miraculous painting OF the blessed Virgin Mary
painted On a common blanket, 1t Is claimed in
miraculous manner. Its history is too long to re-
peat here. This painting. travellers are told, has
been examined by eminent American painters by
Invitation OF the church, who have decided
and they do not believe it could have been done
with any material or brush known to the art