The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-09-22


cicerone was through with the party he was
then conducting. I gave the bella good sized
dinner bella few taps. and sat down to await
events. The General" came in few moments
afterward He saw the placard, and though told
him the ringing had been attended TO- he seized
the handle and fairly made the building ring
with the 'twang" he gave it Then he began
pacing the little room. nervously looking at his
watch and saying he had only ten minutes to
sdo this thing inn and if the fellow did not
come he should go. The minutes of wait
ing stretched dangerously near the Generals
limit and he turned to his companion and an,
nounced his intention of leavine-he knew about
Scott. anyhow. and all he wanted was to see the
outside OF the building; when. just as he was
going out of the door, the attendant appeared,
and the General consented to extend his time
twenty minutes. The General" was going
through Europe" and will probably lecture
upon his return home. OF fair Melrose. with
its clustering memories, its graves of the Doug
lasses and its Heart of Bruce, and of lovely
Dreyburgh. where Sir Walter and his wife
sleep, with Lockhart, his son in-law and biog-
rapher lying at his feet-so flially and touchingly
expressed upon the tombstone-I can only make
the barest mention, and then hurry on to Edin-
burg.
Inc beauty OF Edln OurR mas oeeu 50 olteu o0-
scribed that it would be twice told tale to at
tempt a repetition. The castle stands at the
upper end of High street and Hollywood Palace
at the lower end, with King Arthurs seat" and
its companion cresss a sort OF amphltheater
from which to look down upon the historic scene.
Between the two extremes St. Giles Cathe-
dral-John Knoxs church-Knoxs house;
the Heart of the Midothiau-the To-
cality indicated by the boulders being
laid in the pavement in the shape OF
heart-Mercat Cross the probable burial place
of Knox-.I K. 1872 /" in brass letters set in the
pavement in front of the Parliament House,
just behind st. Giles-and number OF other
places of great but lesser interest. knox's home
juts into the street. asserting itself as strongly
and dominating the entire locality as did the old
Reformer himself when he lived in it. The lower
story is used a tobacco and snuff shop By H.
Christie, the upper stories remaining as they
were when inhabited by Knox, and being shown
to visitors at the usual fee Above the lower
story is quaint old inscription reading: "Lufe
God above all. and vi nichtbour yiself" On
the fronts of many of the old gable-end houses
in High street are similar inscriptions and in
functions. and it would not have surprised me
to have Holiness to the Lord" inscribed
upon the bells of the horses, spoken of by
the prophet. Not far from High street, which
is tho central business street of the old town,
stands the famous university, and near that the
house in which Walter Scott was born, indicated
by a colorsd portrait on the wall On the other
side of the gardens-crossed by bridges-known
as the new town, is the house used by Scott
when in the city. and at the lower end of Princes
street, the main thoroughfare of the new
town. is Cation Hill. upon which stands the
tna to ALI Stey
and the Nelson pillar. while at the foot, and
around the curve of the hill, is the Burns monu
nent aud museum. should have said that
fronting High street is the cemetery in which is
the grave of the poet FERGUSON, with its stone
erected by Rober. Burns, and those of Adam
Smith and Dueald Stewart. In the Princes
gardens, and just opposite the principal hotel
facing Princes street, stands the Scott monu-
ment, structure two hundred feet high, after
the design of Kemp. young, self-taugbt artist
It is the finest monumental structure to be found
anywhere; much superior to the Albert Memo
rial IN Kensngton. London, and which seems TO
be bold plagiarism of this one. Near the Scott
monument are statues to Livingstone. to Adam
Black and to christopher North'-Professor
Wilson The rides and drives about Edin burg
are various and beautiful The great bridge over
the Firth of Forth, the largest cautilever il the
world is attraction. Dalmeny, the seat of
the Earl of Roseberry, is another: Roslin Cha
pei with its almost superhuman beauty of
sculpture, and it's famous Masters Pillar
and Prentice Pillar, Is another and
the chiefest. The chapel is sermon in
stone, il anything be; for all over its ceiling
on every arch and in every groin, the patient
chisel has wrought wondrous lessons taken
from Scripture. and illustrations of human life
- Ill
who it seems to me- "builded better than he
knew" for under his hand the conscious stone
grew to a beauty that has been the admiration
of the centuries. and must continue to be
long as a trace of the work remains. The castle
of Edinburg is used military station, and I
saw several com panies of the Highlanders. with
their picturesque costume and bare legs, march
ing up and down the streets. for no other pur-
pose, apparently. than to show off their kits
and brawny knees. One of the pleasant
memories of Edinburg is the hearing
of pot pourri OF Scotch airs by native band,
beginning with "Robin Adair" and ending with
1.-THE Blue Bells of Scotland" How sweetly
the strains sounded, and with what sympathy
the cornet carried the air Of "Robin." l heard
the same medley once more, and on my last day
in England, in the park of Hawarden castle,
when the band saluted Mr.. Gladstone in honor
1 suppose, Of his sitting in Parliament as a
Scottish member. spent Sunday in Edinboro
and attended ST. Giles's for John Knox's sake
/ hope he appreciated my seif-sacrfce. for it
was about as dull and ponderous performance
as l ever suffered. Sunday is observed in Edin-
boro-at least part of the day. The latter half
the streets are full of people moving out into
the adjacent country. and not few of them
somehow secured access to Scotch whisky It
was at Edipboro on that Sunday. that for the
only time in my life / saw and
heard grace said at hotel table. The
steward saw the guests seated at table dhote
and then rapping for silence, some previ-
ously selected rose and asked blessing upon
the meal. The misunderstanding old clergy
m or, who nfGciafed at dinnar was my Wis via