The Portland daily press., 1887-12-03
ENTERING THE LAND OF The
GAR.
The Travellers Unpleasant Experien-
ces at the Frontier.
[st. Petersburg letter.

q
At the frontier the stranger encounters lit
tie In the forms different from other conn-
tries. The modes Of inspecting baggage and
withstanding personal scrutiny do not vary
greatly from the usual. But as eyerythingi In
Russia Is distinctly Russian, and therefore
exceedingly strange, the most experienced
traveller is possessed OF sense OF concern, Ii
not fear. The through trains from Vienna,
Berlin and other popular lines Of departure
for Russia, land one on the frontier at night.
The place is small, and the station swarms
with Russian officers, big, burly fellows,
with swarthy, unintelligent faces covered
with long, flowing boards, and all dressed In
the most elaborate uniforms. There Is
clanking Of swords, a rattle OF spurs. DIN Oh
voices. and rushing hither and thither that
is appalling. Timid women travelling alone
have been overcome with fear or lost their
heads in this hustle.
The gendarme in charge is the first offieer
that approaches the incomer This Is the
highest ranking military official, and he
takes M the passports he is arrayed nse
Nanoleon-a broad-topped cap OF red, white
and black; dark green frock coat trimmed
with white and decked with brass epauicss
weighing pounds; huge belt and sword,
which Il hung to strike the ground at every
step and rattle like musketry;, pantaloons
with deep white stripe and tucked IN knee.
TOP boots, spurs of enormous propOItlons,hnu
a revolver Of sufficient size to gun for Du1aio.
The passports and gendarms disappear In the
direetion of the ONCE Of the Russian consul,
where the documents are examined:
On the heels Of this diplomatic 0fncer come
the customs lackeys, who, without ceremony
or invitation, pick up the sachels, bags ana
DNuCC
bundles exclal Ian nut In THE traSeler fo.Iows
He finds his trunks already on the counters
inside the station, and If they are unlocked
thew are open and the contents are pSlns
dumped on the floor. The terror TO the nus
sian government Is printed matter. Eyeay
newspaper, circular or book found Is taken
ont and sent to the gendarme and the consul.
RI ANYTHING about free government, Tree
schools or other free institutions, criticlsm OF
Russia, or her form Of government Is found
IL is retained; and should It appear among
the possibilities that the bearer has any de-
sign upon the Russian way OF doing Things
he or she is detained tor examination. ~ does
not appear in history or tradition tnat per-
sons ~detained' have ever proven their MS
sions clear. They simply have been neard
Of no more.
i Iondoner who had a couple Of trunks
displayed his English blood by stepping be-
mind tine long counter when his baggage was
pulled out Of the wire cage, where u stays
till opened, and beginning to unlock II. Inc
0fficers snatehed the keys from the travellers
hands and pushed him back In line with oth-
ers. When the trunks were opened the
Englishman paid for his forwardness Dy see,
ing his goods dumped out on the moor and
everything mussed and left Tor MN 70 care
for. There was no complaint: To complain
means to detain, for the Russian officers are
AS suspicious as they are ofhcious. All stand
in together, and they have such unlimited
license that one is at their mercy.
/ tried TO anticipate the officers as much as
possible, and having left my trunk in Paris,
eagerly opened my satchels. The pockets Of
NV garments were turned wrong side out,
letters were squeezed, travelling cap ditto,
and socks, which were turned In togetner
were pulled out and looked into.
Trains entering or emerging from Russia
do not pretend to respect their time card, Tor
the reason that they are often detained on
the frontier. Two hours are always taken,
however, being the time required Tor exam
lining baggage and passports. long or snort
On this occasion the train was light and the
baggage was soon inspected. But the pas
sengers were not permitted to resume their
place in the train. As soon as they escaped
the customs officers they were led INTO the
adjoining restaurant, men, women and chill
dren. where were all classes Of people in
every condition. All outer doors were
locked. and were guarded by officers, Ilmld
delicate women lowered in the corners ana
waited for the end of the two hours, while
lalt-lntOXlcdJcQ huSolduo CtOWuCd
smoking nasty cigars or drinking steamlng
tea at the tables In all the multitude OF
Greeks. Slayse, Persians Swedes, Russians,
Germans, not an English voice was heard !;
and seldom did one see a man who could III
terpret even sign. The women were, more
ready and bright and OWNED the wishes OF
travellers more readily.
Finally Russian rushed like mad from the
station and began ringing a bell. There was
commotion inside. The bell-ringer moved up
and down the long platform and made much
unnecessary noise. The doors were unlocked
and the passengers passed out, an otficer be-
ing ready to see that each parcel bore the
stamp of the custom house. An hour and a
half of unnecessary, disagreeabe waiting
made one appreciate the atmosphere chilly
even in August. just before the train
started Jingle Of spurs and sabers was
heard, and two gendarmes appeared. Tney
entered the carriages and handed out the
passports. Each passport bore simple and
short signature-that Of the consul or govern
Grand the seal of the officer. Two or three
passengers did not receive their passports
because the documents were not vised, and
they were obliged to remain and explain.
AS the train rolled on from the frontier to-
ward Warsaw and st. Petersburg the pro
verb, 'The gates of Russia are wide to those
who enter, but narrow to those who would
20 out" fingered In my mind.