The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-05-01
FASHIONS OF THE SEASON.
rur GENESIS OF BEAUTY IN
WOA1EN'S DRESS.

u, reimbursement of Modern Fashions
1esl1ty and Adaptability the Mod
avn standard OF Style-Masculine
1deas of Fashion Reanement Versus
17,,loarity-New Promenade Co.'S
t,,,es in Heliotrope and Gray-The
Drass "Complet' and the Partisan
Iuorkwoman - Canvas Costumes
french Bodices and Tennis Suits
Faster Wedding Trousseau.
NEW YORK, April 29.--Women can never
10 really great till less of their nervous
energy is expended upon dress. Yet who
,,o,,Id devise any absolute basis and fixed
laws in regard to women's dress, even if
thew couldg A woman-student and scholar
IN one-who rarely makes her appearance
i, society. attended grand reception the
o4ber evening, and when asked why she in
dnlced in SO much dissipation, replied: II
oome 70 look at the good clothes. A feast
Coz. the ewes, is it not! Yet | see nothing
,o,v cav or unlike what | have seen be-
fore Still, it was-as this quiet lady re-
.marked-''a feast for the eyes" The lovely
o,t shades of color, which were formerly
oolled aesthetic and were confined to a few
,o,.sons have now become general, and
their softness and delicacy blend in masses
and create lovely tone and glow OF color.
There is also great deal that is charming
and individualized about present fashion.
Women arc differentiated. They look less like
c,illiners, blocks: less as if put i'll and taken
/ mt Of one mold The dress of one will show
Refinement of simplicity; another, the
| S,btIest manipulation and blending of art.
Ono is as ssfashionablen as the other for
evarvthine is fashionable" that is sue
cessHthat is. that looks well and makes its
wearer look well.
of novelty to spring fashions which are
/ hardly justified by their materials. The
1 feeling and appearance are produced by the
Greater variety of color and the picturesque
SlggestivenesS of some of the new combina-
tions A finer art is constantly being culti-
waited in the designing OF gowns and gar
ments "Drapery" is now, with some, a
snecislty. and books and pictures are studied
both by dressmakers and their customers in
order to discover new idea, a new fold, a
new effect and if one is found it is seized
upon with avidity
Draperv, therefore, has not gone out of
fashion because plain skirts have come in !;
both are equally fashionable, equally desira-
bic, if both are equally fitted to be represen-
tatives of their class 1t is highly impor-
tant to get rid of the notion that because
one thing is worn" another must not be-
For example, that because the polonaise has
been revived, the basque and draperied
skirt have disappeared; or that the use of
one color excludes another There is no
rule in dress that is not open to a bril-
liant exception and there never was a time
when general culture, intelligence and
special requirements entered so largely into
the general economy % dress or found so
much individual expression as now. Yet,
notwithstanding this, it is certainly true
that women must release themselves very
much more generally from the burden and
authority of their clothes, if they are to be
ready to do the work of the world with the
force that is demanded of men and with no
more waste of nervous energy.
This fact is beginning to be accepted by
professional women everywhere, and they
are gradually acquiring characteristic tone
in the general features of their attire. The
thoroughbred women can always be recog-
nized anywhere, principally by the presence
of refinement and the absence of the con-
spicuous in her clothes. But unfortunately
she is not often seen on the street. The spec
linen with which we are most familiar in the
crowds that tLrOng the sidewalks is the wig
Cling woman, whose big hustle carries her
skirt like sail, who lives in boarding houses
and aaunts her latest acquisition in the shape
of feathers or flowers, bangles or wraps, upon
the promenade With the Majority of men,
this woman stands as the representative of
"style," They walk behind her and COM
ment upon her as they take their afternoon
stroll up Broadway; and she, unconscious
that her hustle has worked considerably to
one side and radiant in the consciousness
OF tall ladder of spring green bows in the
front of her straw hat and new gown in
the proper combination of striped with plain
material, carries her head higher even than
usual and feels that ''life is worth living as
long as spring brings new fashions.
THE PROMENADE COSTUME
Is short jacket of light, stone colored cloth,
mtrimmed but faced interiorly with silk
over black or brown soft vicuna or cash
mere dress, and black or brown straw hat,
with bunch of spring flowers or grasses and
ribbon bows set upright. Fresh flowers are
almost always worn at the breast or carried in
tne hand heliotrope, violets, yellow daffodils,
lilies OF the valley or fragrant mignonette.
They are displayed in tempting masses upon
every block at comparatively small cost,
and few can Withstand the temptation of
adding ''posey' to the dainty neatness of
anew spring jacket.
Glmps and passementeries have now disap-
Peared from street jackets Of the best class /;
tnelr distinction is due altogether to the fin
lsh OF the smooth broad cloth the refine
ment OF tint and the perfection of cut and
IT. Ihe tufted and coarse mixtures in ma
terlals are only used by those who possess
mem and must wear them The fashiona-
Die TAILOR cloths are in every important
respect identical with those worn by men,
braldlng is perhaps more distinguished than
ever, but 1t is executed by hand and upon
eltre costumes A braided jacket, with
daped cloth or silk skirt, such as was com
monty worn few years ago, is now not
elegant. The bodice is not braided in a Dor
der line, but to form a. deep, pointed vest
oack and front--and the design is repeated
IN panel upon one side; and part of it
az decorative touch--upon the hip drapery
some OF the handsomest of these costumes
are made in black; others in shades of hello
rope and gray; but perhaps the most de
t.lidedly novel in tone and appearance are
lle sage greens, kind of gray green shade,
winch suits admirably the rich hand orna-
mentatlon in oxidized silver that is put
upon 1t. 1t is hard to tell what turn
CAPRICE OF FASHION
VIII take, or when it will be found enough
ana not too much There are tempting
looking pattern dresses, in boxes, which
seem TO exemplify the latter part of the
phrase At first sight everyone wants them,
ana There is open wonder at the low price
On. I'd. They are cotton Saline of varying
oegrees of prettiness or ugliness, accompa-
eIed by fan and parasol matching the dress.