The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-04-22

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away are retained in their general fea-
lures, though when made in the more
pronounced plaids the sack is considered
the natter garment. The three-button
cutaway buttons even lower than hereto
fore. The waist has been heightened
little, without putting any additional
length on the skirt, and thus for the coat
shorter look is obtained, though in re-
atty it is about the same length. It
should be made to fit closely to the figure,
butnot to anything like the extreme extent
Of the past two or three years. The desire
on the part Of extremists in dress to get
avery low opening coat has brought out a
new style, the two-button cutaway, which
is likely to be seen considerably among
the very swell element.
In this coat the lower button is where
the third button on the ordinary cuta-
way would be, but the top button is
much lower, and the lapel is naturally
larger and heavier. On all plaid cuta-
ways the outside breast pocket is vet in
favor, and so are the flaps at the sides,
which may cover real pockets or dunn
mics, at the wearer's option. The sleeves
should fit fairly snugly, and curve to con-
form to the natural position of the arm.
At the cuff is vent, and two buttons
are used to trim. AS in past seasons, the
use of waddings in the shoulders will be
avoided, though the square effect is de-
sirable for most men, and is obtained by
skilful tailors shrewd enough to locate
the shoulder seams ON the coat trifie
higher than heretofore OF course, how
ever, the sensitive man with sloping
shoulders will be forced to pad just lit
tie. Cutaway coats in fancy goods are
made with the edges turned in and
stitched double, and there ought not to
be bit more than quarter of an inch
between the stitching.
The morning sack coat in the same
goods may have three or four buttons
The toniest men prefer three, because
that style enables the tailor to make the
opening lower and the lapel heavier
There is no very new feature about this,
sack, save that it is cut somewhat straighter
in form, and made to button all the way
down, if desired, the corners not falling
away as formerly. The sack viii be Of
good length A man Of five feet ten inches
will find that his morning sack measures
very near thirty inches in length. 1t viii
shape in snugly, but not too closely to
the back, a moderation in this respect
being among the improvements. The
patch pockets and the outside pockets
will suffer no change, and the coat finally
viii be finished with a low roll and soft
front, so that its most graceful appear
ance will be gained when it is worn open
In fact, most tai.ors are turning out both
getaways and sacks in business suits, so
that they may be worn open. 6
In the vest of the business suit the
opening is cut still LIVER than hereto
fore, and tho pc ular style is the single
breasted, netchel-collar, five or six but
ton vest. The no-collar vest viii be worn
tc moderate degree but the extreme,
because the latest, style, is that sort of
vest with the low opening showing be-
meath the front edges false collar made
from white Marseilles or pique. This is
simply a revival of very old style, and
was first noticed last summer. This year
it is probable that the false vest will be
worn principally with fancy vests of
either worsteds or silks. These fancy
vestings, by the way, continue to increase
in favor, and the variety of designs is
quite bewildering. The majority of them
Sell AZ ~ O5 1; - siaa ngures, coMplhation
g Iu's, nsslS LOW Ioweis, stripes, cne sl1
and black, and other combinations
- ah h,;y. ses's may nave We. SIX tWist buttons
I'll Du ~. seiru Will tne same mate
a,ai ~. ,ne euges are sufneu n anu stiIcheu,
an au 49, .nt uoin0is arc GU away slignsiy ~
'liT erp po'. ..l u III.
lne TROUSERS ol business suit, OF o.
any o.n5l sun worn TINS year, are cut
T 9nen wluel .nan !. was tne rue last year.
me trousers OF Inc SVEN young man now
q9r,.e verge on 70 Dagglness-tnat Is tney
WIZ measure nineteen lncnes around the
Anee anu elgnteen az the Dottom on an
average7slze man. trousers u FANCY
goous VIII nave sac seams nnlsned Win
quarler-lncn Weit; IN the smootner or
uIsssier gooos tne seam VIII De discarded.'
An trousers are made entirely without
spring noWauays, because the taiior seeks
70 give !nem me appearance OF Deing
io1 Ms ana straignt.
Il ut UdTk ulagOQdl coat. IdnCY VeSL anu