The Milan exchange. (Milan, Gibson County, Tenn.) 1874-1978, 1887-09-17
NEW PARTISAN STYLES.
Wraps and Whlte-WooI Toilets for AS
Warm Days of Early Fall.


Warm Days of Early Fall
To Judge by the models which modis-
tes are now engaged in preparing for
the autumn and winter, wrappings bid
fair to be as varied the coming season
as they were last year. They will DO
worn long or short, according to the
demands of the occasions; long for the
carriage, and for general wear by
ladies no longer young; short for visits,
for walking, and for day wear by
young ladies. Long cloaks are made
of WOODEN plain. or in very fine stripes,
or almost imperccptible checks. The
cloth is never heavy; the woolens are
supple and comparatively light A
touch of fancy is displayed in long
mantles of tartan plaid in dark sub
dued soft colors. Their shape is simple,
the fronts falling straight, held only
at the neck by Il clasp of metal or pas
scmenterie the back sometimes plated
at the waist under belt which stops
short under the arms; frequently a
cape is added, sometimes hood; the
sleeves, which are rolled under, are
rather wide, and gathered at the arm
hole and wrist.
Short wraps, when intended to BE-.
worn in the morning or destined for
young girls, are almost always made OF
plain cloth, or furred cloth, or coarse
wooden, thick and warm. They are
made in any one of the numberless
jacket shapes, with or without cape
of the same material, which does not
reach farther than the elbow; the cape
may or may not have a hood; the hood
is always pointed. The jacket is inva-
riably adjusted, and is usually some
what long, or is heightened by fat
basques set under the curved lower
edges of the front and back Some
times the basque is ornamented with
embroidery or passementerie, which
does not reappear in any other part of
the jacket; never is there any trim
ming on the lower edge, unless it is
the merest edging of braid
Some of the jackets assume military
character, with their decorations of
brandebourgs, olives and fourageres or
shoulder ornaments.
Jackets, whatever their shape, are
worn by all ladies in general with
morning toilets, and by young girls at
all hours of the day. With the short
mantle wraps it is different; these are
not worn at all by young girls; ladies
of all ages wear them, in all degrees of
elegance, for visiting and for after
Moons Some of these are so extremely
rich as to be unsuitable for the street,
and are only worn in the carriage.
These are of Genoese velvet in rich,
dark shades, sometimes embroidered
with gold or trimmed with passc-
menterie in which there is gold. almost
all are trimmed with lace. Their
shape is combination of mantilla and
visite, with sleeves forming part of the
back, and short tab fronts, the tabs cut
square or pointed.
The polonaise, never entirely aban-
doned, has been revived under the
title of blouse, and is much worn, more
especially by young ladies and girls.
To describe it generally, it is u dress,
shorter than an ordinary dress, worn
over petticoat of the same fabric, on
which it is slightly-very slightly
draped. The blouse is worn with y
belt, is shrred at the neck to define
round yoke, and shirred again toward
the waist. The sleeves are quite full,
half-long, and gathered at the armhole.
A band of Bulgarian galloon, en-
broidered in colored silks blended with
gold or silver, is around the armhole
and on the wrstband, and similar gal
= loon is used for the belt. Such eos
! tunes are made of barege, yelling,
; English crepe and crepeline for young
, girls evening toilets.
White has been taken up with so
much fervor this summer that it viii
be most reluctantly abandoned in the
. autumn, and dresses are now being
, planned in which a polonaise or blouse
. of white wool, thick but supple, is worn
over n skirt of colored cloth in such
7 colors as hussar blue, hazel and al
: mond-shell. The skirt is braided with
soutache, which is optionally but fire.
quently mingled with furnished gold;
!, the same braiding is on the polonaise.
! 1t will be readily understood that such
! dresses are not intended to be worn on
9 city streets, but in the carriage in
Paris, and at country houses and water
= ing-place5 at the end of the season.
Sometimes. to make a gradual transit
], ton between the colors and avoid a
= harsh contrast, the cloth skirt, the
whole or part, is yelled with coarse
: meshed Irvine net-PdriS Letter.
Y The perspiratiOn Just pores cut thiI