The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-12-23
Ladies' Department.
New York Fashions
HINTS ABOUT DREss-MAKING.


shown to lengthen the sides OF the
basque. making them come down
we'll on the hips, and another fancy
is that of fastening the back drapery
of the skirt above the edge of the
basque. giving the appearance Of
princesse continuous bredths. The
round skirt Of wool costumes is quite
plain, that is, with out even foot
pleating, but IN many cases it il
widely bordered with velvet at the
foot, and braiding or passmenterie
that initiate braiding is placed above
it. The over-skirt is very long, and
shows several variations Of the apron
over.skirt, which remains in fashion
year after year, no matter what 9TH
er novelties appear. At present this
oyer.skirt is made nearly straight
and is therefore very full at the top,
where it is pleated TO the belt all
around, the front and side pleats be-
ing quite scant, while those behind
are so thickly laid that they retain
their folds the whole length of the
skirt. The looping is principally on
the sides where two or three deep
cross folds are taken instead of the
many pleats formerly used, and this
makes the long apron pointed or
rounded alike on both sides. A
single panel on the left side is not
now as popular trimming as front
panel. or as panels matching on the
sides. The lower skirt may be shown
perfectly plain on each side if the
wearer chooses, or it may be pressed
in very fine pleats similar to the &C
Gordon pleats. The fancy for show
ing selvages on fine woolens used for
drapery is still seen, and Worth ex-
tends this caprice to silks showing
the white selvage on the black silks
amid the draperies. Parallel rows of
stitching, eight or ten in number,
are done with great accuracy four or
five inches above the foot Of cloth
skirts, and this, stitching is also seen
on black skirts Of very plain yet very
stylish dresses.
House dresses of twilled wool, casl.
mere, cancels hair, and Henrietta
cloth are being prettily made up in
combination with black w4tered silk,
or with velveteen of the same color
rs the wool. When velveteen is US
ed it appears in a plain round skirt
which is nearly covered by the long
over skirt also in pointed plastron
pointed demi girdle, and deep cuffs
ON the basque. The fronts of the
basque are drawn back at the top and
shirred on the shoulder seams, leav.
ing space for the V shaped plastron
the fullness is then laid in fiat pleats
over the bust, and stitched in small.
er pleats from the waist line to the
girde. The sleeves may be in coat
shape, with pointed epaulettes and
lointed cuffs, or else they are full,
and are laid in fat pleats from the
armholes to the deep cuffs. The
black watered silk is used as fat
border five or six inches wide, around
81 lower skirt of green, blue. or copper
red wool, or else the brighter poppy
red so becoming alike to blondes and
6runettes. Revers of the black silk
are on the over.skirt and also ON the
basque.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Narrow rows of stitching are on
the backs of the newest kid gloves.
and in London the plain gloves with
out stitching are being revived. Tan
co.or and gray remain the favorite
colors for street gloves; cream white
shades are being revived for evening
wear, though light tan and pearl col
Ors are most used in the long unIress-
ell Suede gloves of mosquetaire
shape. All gloves are worn easy
fitting and much larger than former
ly.
Mask wells are imported in all the
fashionable colors of the winter
fawn, gray, copper, red, GobeliH blue
Old.rose, and green-made of very
thin net with small dots, and seal
Hoped border in wider patterns of vines
and leaves than any yet seen. Silk
tissue and grenadine with fine dots