The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-05-27
Ladies' Department.
New York Fashions.
ALL BLACK DRESSES.

surah or Grape forms the basque and
the back CT the skirt, with deeply |
draped lace aprons held by bows and
brides of MORE ribbon, while other
dresses reverse this arrangement. An
instance of the lace basque dresses
with lace drapery at the back is
shown with the front and sides Of the
skirt made of four panel-like double
box pleats of surah, with the spaces
between filed by two deep founces
of French lace. Jet ornaments in
clusters, or else jet galloon in stripes
may be put down the panel pleats to
enrich them. A jabot Of lace, with
jet pendants or watered ribbon ends
in the curves. is fashionable trim
ming for the sides or fronts Of black
silk skirts. There are also draped
panels of lace down the middle OF
the skirt made of piece lace, gather
ed to fall ,iiagonally or ,rregularily,
and finished on each side by
jabot of trimming lace and
ribbon. or by box pleats trimming
lace and ribbon, or by box pleats
trimmed with jet Two Or even
three flounces OF lace are across the
back OF new dresses; these are es-
pecially liked for young ladies who
wear telted round waist OF lace lap
ped to the left in front, or else meet
ing in the middle and edged there
with two frills of lace falling togeth-
er in careless jabot. Other lace
dresses have the back drapery in
long straight pleats from top to bot
tom. or else the wide forty inch lace
is pleated down the right and middle
of the oack and there is jabot of
only four or five curves up tine left
side of the back from the foot to the
belt. Wide MORE ribbon sashes are
still worn, and there are also narrow
ribbons of metre, satin, or velvet tied
in long bride with ends down the
left side, or arranged in four rows
down the burnoose-pleated back
drapery, and in diagonal rows across
Vic 1pAOA itOAVo.
COLORED SUMMER DRESSES.
Crepelines and canvas stuffs in
plain dark colors and in light grounds
strewn with gay flowers are made up
In pretty summerd dresses. The shir.
red basques with full sleeves in long
deep pnffs, or tucked along the out
er arm, with velvet cuffs, are liked
for crepeline and challi dresses. The
skirts are in fine pleats, with short
aprons and back drapery with long
double points. These are useful in
dark brown and navy blue shades,
or in lighter gray or lavender, with
darker velvet for giving them char
acter. Sometimes the entire trim
ming is picot.edged velvet ribbon
instead of bias velvet, arranged as a
bride on the left side, or in length.
wise pointed bands in front and be
hind. while the corsage has merely a
band of this ribbon around the collar
fastening in bow on the left, while
the sleeves haye the wristbands also
of ribbon. The canvas stuffs are made
up in combination with striped can
vas, the stripes being metallic, copper
gilt and silver lines all in one fabric
crossing the breadth Of Gobelin blue
canvas, or of pistache green, or pearl
gray. The skirts are made up in the
wide round organ pleats being used
down the whole skirt; these pleats
are lined with crinoline lawn to keep
them curved in shape, and are stitch
ed lengthwise down the silk founda-
ton skirt with small pleating Of the
striped canvas between. The drap.
cry is of the striped canvas arranged
as sash around the hips, with two
long ends behind. The waist may
be basque with bias front. or else
a round corsage with belt Of gilt, sill.
yer and copper galloon.
LINGERIE.
Linen collars and cuffs are again
fashionably worn with wool dresses.
The collars are high straight bands,
or else they are turnedover in points
Ill lTOnt III tilc CuSi shape. CuHS
are not SO close.ftting as the jersey
cuffs lately worn, and at least an
inch of the snowy linen shows below
the coat sleeve. The fancy is to
button cuffs inside the arm with
single button, not with the linked
buttons worn by men. Embroidery
on collars and cuffs is very slight, in
the finest vine pattern, or in brier
stitching, or in three or four rows of
small dots, which may be white or in
colors, such as old-rose, deep red,
gray.blue and also yellow or green;
the cuffs are similarly wrought, and
sometimes are turned over in points
to match the collar. Round breast
pins are liked with plain lingerie;
some of these brooches are of chased
gold, or of old silver, or of enam-
ell on gold or silver. For morning and
for travelling use. are percale collars,
chemisettes, and cuffs of plaids in
colors on white, many having cross
barred lines an inch apart, or even
l..