The Democratic press. [volume] (Ravenna, O. [Ohio]) 1868-1901, 1887-08-18
IN CENTRAL SOUDAN.

least expected, party of horsemen in
fierce Bedouin-like array will spring
from behind some cliff or out of an un-
seen hollow, and with marrow-pierc-
ing war-cries and unearthly screams,
spears levelled or swords uplifted,
bear down upon US like a whirlwind,
amid clouds of dust, apparently bent
on annihilating or sending to Gahenna
such infidels as ourselves. But even
though you feel decided want of
backbone, a dozen spears, as it were,
already quivering in ycur bodies, and
your heads not worth the purchase,
pray do not run away, nor even blench
for one moment. Assume an indiffer-
ent expression, as if being chopped up
or spitted on spears was daily e1per-
fence. If you can smile in the emer-
gency, all the better, for Just as we
seem to feel the hot breath of their
horses on our cheeks, and in a be-
wildered sort of way realize the disa-
greeable proximity of several spears,
another shout will fill the air, the gal
Looping horses as if by magic will stand
stock-still, enveloping us in cloud OF
dust, and by the cordial shouts of well
come and hearty salams we shall find
most pleasant assurance that all this
fiendish display is intended as an hon.
orable welcome to their town. Barely
shall we have realized that this is the
way they do these things in central
Soudan, and that instead of being
among foes we are among friends,
when the horsemen are off again, SEEM
ingly bent once more on annihiiating
an unseen enemy.
Let us wait a minute, and from be-
hind the gateway we shall hear the
| notes of native music, not such as
would delight us at home, but yet har-
monizing with our surroundings, and
| not without a certain wild, weird
charm of its own. Some of YOU may
have heard similar shrill melancholy
strains in the streets of Cairo in festi-
val professions, or still more appro-
! priately in Arab camps. Presently,
however, the music will cease to mo-
nOpOliZe your attention, as the musi-
clans themselves advance with their
huge trumpets six feet long, their pipes
and hour-glass-shaped tomtoms, her.
| aiding the approach of Fillani noble
man. Following at no great distance
comes the respected magnate volumi-
nously clothed, and mounted on a
prancing tiery-eyed horse. one mass of
rich trappings, which jingle and rustic
at its every step. This is the messen-
| ger sent to bid us welcome by the Sui
tan-a task which he will perform
with that dignified bearing and inborn
grace which seem somehow specially
characteristic of MOhammedan races.
This ceremony over, the horsemen will
once more engage in mimic battle,
showing their modes of fighting, and
the skill with which they WELD their
weapons and manage their horses
Thus escorted, we shall be expected TO
fall into procession, and headed by a
court singer, who improvises a chant
in our honor, which is accompanied by
the pipes, and accentuated by the stem
torian notes of the trnmpets and the
unmusical notes of the tomtoms, we
shall be conducted through wondering
but respectful crowds to the quarters
specially provided for us in the town.
Let US imagine that this quaint and
interesting ceremony is over, and that
we are safely housed, that we have lis
tened to a second messenger from the
Sultan, and looked over the abundance
of good things sent for our Immediate
entertainment, and finally have been
left alone to refresh ourselves and rest
after the excessive fatigues of our
journey.
Toward the cool of the evening we
can afford to wander forth once more,
and seek new sights and scenes to graf
ify our lively curiosity. We must be
prepared to be followed by crowds of
the lower classes, more eager to see
us than even we can be to see them.
But observe how respectful they are,
and how little of harbarous yulgarity
they have in their examination of US,
as compared with the pagan tribes we
have hitherto passed through on our
journey.
Leaving for another occasion the
examination of the inside of their
houses-their penetralia-let US wan
der through the town. Long dead
walls of glaring red clay suggesting
prisons are varied by the occurrence
here and there of square tower-like
building having an ordinary doorway
to the street. From the roofs of these
towers project long clay pipes to drain
off the water from the flat roofs. Some
times, instead of fiat-roofed building
conical-roofed erection takes Its
place, and in place of the ordinary
European-like doorway characteristic
of all the square buildings horseshoe
shaped entrance performs the same
duty. Mats or fences of sorghum
stalks replace not infrequently the
massive mud walls which enclose the
compounds of the wealthy. These ar'
all the architectural features which
meet the inquiring gaze OF the trav
eler.
Having thus little to note in thu
house, we must turn to other object
for points of interest. And truly ther'
is no lack. In shady hooks sit pict
uresque groups of natives in all kind
of combinations discussing the news o
the day. haggling over a purchase, o.
busily engaged in embroidery or max
: ing up of gowns and trousers. Thl
trade, we may note, is here entirely il
the hands of men, who ply the needl
with much skill Farther on we NEE
a courtier gorgeously dressed, looking
in his voluminous garments yer.
Falstaff in bulk, as he goes amblin.
past on his still more richly decorate'
horse, bent on little exercise in tn
cool of the evening. OF the persona
appearance of this aristocrat l shal
not now speak, but we may take nc
tice of the horse. BY good luck her
happens to be one standing waiting t
be mounted, so we can more conver
iently examine steed and trappings j
| detail The animal befors us is a Yer
: fair specimen of Soudanese horss
: 1t is somewhat lanky with little beat
q ty of line, but it is tiery-eyed, and II
: tail and name, being uncut, give it
r somewhat wild appearance. Soudar
: ese horses are generally very viciou
:. and difficult to manage, stations alon
a being used for riding purposes. The
4 are specially trained for sudden fo
d ward charges, to stop within their ow
d length when in full gallop, to tur
!. with equal rapidity, and away like I'll
i wind out of harms way. At otht
+ times the fayorite mode of progressio
e is by making the horses left legs sin
d ultaneously alternate with those of I'll
a right side, method of travelling whio
g is very pleasant and easy. The rider
# are fond of making their horses pran'
It and plunge about with fierce and fiel
:, action. There is nothing which I'll
K central Soudanese is so proud of /
,. his horse, and nothing to which he d
It votes more time and attention than