Los Angeles daily herald., 1887-09-18
DAILY HERALD.
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS.
As Reported by the Editor Of
Harper's Bazar.

As Reported by the Editor of
Harper's Bazar.
Faced cloths and serges of plain
colors are largely imported by the
wholesale houses for autumn and win
ter costumes. These come in all the
new Gobelin blue shades, the navy
blue with more purple in it, the dah-
Iias or red purples, the porcelain green
with less yellow and more blue, vet
entirely different from the peacock
shades, the new cigar browns with a
great deal of yellow, the red-browns
of mahogany, and the pieu9 rose,
which is not old pink, but old red as
dark as Jacqueminot roses and far
more purple in hue. Two Of these
colors are combined for dressy cos
tunes, making the entire dress OF
cloth, or perhaps some velvet is added,
but in many cases all trimming is dis
pensed with, a more stylish effect be-
ing given by combining cloths of con-
trasting colors, the darker shade re-
ponderating and being placed above
with lighter color for the petticoat,
vest, collar and cuffs.
For rough goods are serges with
large blanket plaids, and Cheviots
with fine lines and crossbars of vague,
indefinite coloring prettily blended.
The plaids will be used by young
women for skirts and draperies with
plain .bodices, and will also serve for
long outside wraps. The smaller fig
ured Cheviots are beautifully made
up by French and English designers
with Tapped full surplice bodies and
velvet plastrons; the skirts are plain
on the foundation, but voluminous
with drapery.
Fancy woolens combined with plain
twilled wools make up the greater
part of the French importations, two
and half to three yards of fancy
goods of single width being added to
eight yards of the plain goods, which
is double width; the figured stuff rep
resents lower skirt disclosed almost
to the belt in one or two places by the
very long drapery of the plain fabric,
and is also used for decorating the
plain bodice. Cord stripes, picot
stripes and velvet stripes, with others
like tufting and in loops, are clustered
on smooth grounds of the stylish
Gobelin blue, clear dark green and
fose-colored woods. In the new reds
no garnet and no cardinal tints are
seen, but there is great variety in the
blood're shades and in the dieur rose >.
the dahlia and the mahogany tints,
which French modistes assert can be
worn equally well by blondes and
brunettes.
The Jacquard looms make large
fowered velvet stripes on satin and
wool grounds for combining with
twain twills in the way just noted.
Lily, rose, and leaf designs form the
stylish stripes, while for separate fig
ures of velvet there are great moons,
blocks, pastilles, diamonds, and al
mond shapes distributed about on sur
faces of the same color. The Pompa-
dour designs of flowers and garlands
of several colors sunken in velvet pile
are imported for combining with plain
stuffs. Plain stripes of velvet are
seen in various widths alternating
with wool stripes of the same color
and Of contrasting colors. Perhaps
the handsomest of all the contrasting
fabrics are the ueIOurs ecossdis, or large
plaids of velvet with twilled silk bars
of contrasting colors on dark wool
grounds. Some of these plaids are so
large that the inside blocks of wool
are six inches square. These come
in monotone, or in many colors of the
richest hues, or in two prettily con-
trasting colors, sch as blue with
brown, red with green, gray with
blue, etc. All entire skirt of the
plaid will be worn with polonaise of
plain, and twilled wool, or with
pointed darperies and basque OF wool.
Designs like those of sOutache braid
ing are woven in raised uncut velvet
figures all over wool surfaces; these
are in two tones of one color, or in
black on any colored ground. This
fabric is used for bodices to wear with
different skirts, also for the entire
lower skirt with a plain over skirt,
and for making wraps. The old
fashioned garments that are braided
all over are to be copied this season
both in ladies' cloth and in CASH
mereS.
There are no marked changes seen
in the earliest importations of French
dresses for autumn, they retain the
long-waisted bodices, long full drap-
cries and plain lower skirt, all novel
features being in the small details OF
drapery and trimming. Another at
tempt will be made to opularize the
pOlonaises which were adopted by
large women last season. Wool
costumes will be de riguetT for the
street, not only in plain tailor gowns,
but in the more fanciful wool fabrics
described above, with velvet stripes,
plaid velvet, and soutache woven de-
signs. Repped silks and moires, both
plain and striped, will be used for
entire dresses and in combination
with velvet.
The new basgues are noticeable for
their elaborate front trimmings, many
of them being draped full from the
shoulders down, even though made OF
heavy cloth or other thick fabric. The
full surplus effect is used even when
there is vest or plastron, and the
Greek drapery coming from the right
shoulder to the left side of the waist is
soon on supple woolens, on silks, and
on velvets. 1t is no unusual thing to
see cloth or camel 's-hair basques with
three large pleats on each shoulder ta-
pering to the merest edge of folds at
the waist line, with the space filled in
with gathered or pleated silk vest, or
with one of velvet or plush, quite
smooth, but richly embroidered or
decorated with passementerie. Shirred
cloth fronts are also made with clus-
ters of gathers at the top and at
the waist line, yet are not clumsy
as they are well held in shape
by points and a V-shaped vest
of steel or silver cord passementerie
there are also yoke fronts of the
heaviest velvet, with the wool gath.
cred on the lower edge. Some pretty
bodices without vests are gathered al
across the top of the front, on eacl
shoulder and below the collar, ano