Wichita eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1886-1890, 1887-11-22
WINTER FASHIONS.
New and Novel Ideas From the City of
Fashion.

PARIS, Nov. 21.-That some of the lead
| ing dress-making establishments of even
| Paris have been touched by the "high art
craze" of America and England, that they
have at least been visited by the astral
spirit of Oscar Wilde is evident. When |
was in the French capital three years ago
there was not the faintest glimmer of the
| coming dawn: but now in the most recher-
che shops are found materials in
the subdued liberty tints, and
dresses with sleeves slashed and
pulled in true medieval style But all
this is not in the uncompromising English
! grammar, but is modified by French taste
and sense Of the fitness of things. So
| the DE Melici' robe is not a copy of the
| fifteenth century, but judicial adapJa-
| ton.
| What is il to be fashionable was never
more clearly marked than this winter
| Braiding and embroidery are to be the
rule: aud the comforting thing to amateur
dressmakers, is that they may be put on
anywhere and not be out of place. | have
seen jackets and waists completely smOth-
cred in embroidery, or only the vest and
! lapels braided: or, again, the drapery ar
ranged 50 as to show the undersl<irt covered
with some charming design carried out n
gold, silver or different shades OF the dress
material; or sometimes a band of embfoid-
cry is continued completely round the over
skirt. In short, the fashionable advice IS:
Brave babes, braid broad braids. +"
Another sample street dress was a light
shade of terra Gotta The petticoat and
drapery were both trimmed with two bands
of mossgreen cloth about an inch VIDE.
| The same color was introduced on the col
lar and cuffs Of the waist, which was cut
like riding-habit jacket.
'ba al Is n cUnnIal favor
this winter And as it is my aim to help
those who help themselves, / will give III
detail the leading points OF this most grace
ful STYLE OF dress This petticoat is in
velvet or yelveteen, and may be plain or
richly embroidered. The upper garment
is cut in the back and on the right side OF
the waist like a polonaise, but the lett
front, as far back as the hip, is made like
Jacket The front Of the waist is laid
III full plaitS for three inches down the
right shoulder seam. This gives sufficient
drapery to draw over in graceful folds to
the left hip. And it is held III place here
with large rOsette of ribbon an inch wide
or q suitable passementerie ornament.
Many house toilets are made with deep
yoke in a light silk of color contrasting
with that of the body Of the dress The
yoke is covered with net work OF chenille
of silk cord of the same shade as the mate.
rial of the costume. The style is very be
coming to Il slim figure
And here is a very charming but easily
made dinner dress, one quite within the
reach of her who superintends the making
of her own gowns. The bodice and train
are of a rich black brOcade silk. The petit
coat is first a foundation of black sIlh.
Over this is a skirt OF braided lace, to which
are Lightly attached, at intervals OF four
inches, bands Of moss green velvet, three
inches wide, reaching from the waist to
Il, f. hon dc of
velvet are sharply pointed at the end and
finished with a tassel of braids. The gath
ering of the lace is 50 arranged that the
fulness comes only between the velvet
pieces; and TO give more grace the bands
narrow as they approach the waist. The
eaSy-hOwing effect OF the whole IS added 10
by clever use of braid fringe on the lace.
first being about six inches below the waist.
This fringe is not worked into
the braided lace in straight lines
between the strips OF velvet, but goes
down and then up again, forming deep
VS. The waist is cut IN FRONT shaped
At either side Of the open neck and under
the V, the green velvet and braided lace
are introduced.
The newest thing in the way of out door
garment are cloth jackets with large
braided reyers and the vest and stand-up
collar OF fur | have seen charming
jacket of blue cloth, with chinchill&: also
one in tan, with beaver vest But perhaps
the most jaunty waSl one belonging to Il
brown cloth suit This Jacket was made
of brown cloth, bound with heavy braid,
in which there was a thread OF gold. The
vest and tight standing collar were of
leopard skin, whose tawny shades har-
monized perfectly with the cloth.
The crowns Of the hats have precepUibly
decreased but the brims have proportion
ally increased. The favorite shape seems
to be a very broad stiff brim turned up On
one side The bonnets, too, are not so
high as they were last year Fur is u
fay0rite trimming, and so is grebe, used in
facing the bonnet.
There j. no indication that the merciless
slaughter of birds is abatiIg for one
sees whole hats made OF tiny wings, and
all manner of birds, in every imagin-
able distorted position, render the female
headgear repuisive indeed.