Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-07-16
WoMAN'S WORLD.
MATTERS OF FACT AND FANCY
CONCERNING HER.
Latest Fashion Hints Sometime
about Desirable CoIors-Efect-
i've Toilet-Blaking-E

'N-J MI hNAiA-OfCA III
Reeamier and Anne of Austria STYLES.
These are made of costly lace. and there is
frequently vest or plastron of the same
lace matching the collar.
There is an unusual demand for summer
silks OF every variety, and the counters are
laden with novel and beautiful patterns In
foulard, figured satin surah, India silk,
Bengaline- taffetas and other light qualities
adapted in style and coloring to all occa-
sions.
Among the most charming evening cos
tunes for the summer are those made with
skirts of expensive lace flouncing, with
Louis XIV. bodice and pannier -tunic above
made of Pompadour satin foulard. The
bodice opens in a narrow V at the throat,
with deep lace collar turning back
broadly, some of these nearly covering the
shoulders. The tunic is raised very high
on the sides and ornamented with loops
and ends of picot satin ribbons in vari-
colers exactly matching the gay flowers in
the foulard. Pretty India silks in pale blue
or pink t!nts, figured with minute devices
in cardinal and sea green, are made up over
Killed skirts of solid pink or blue surah.
combined with colored lace and dark
cardinal velvet.
AS was customary last year muslins.
lawns and other gowns of washable kind
are being trimmed with velvet collar and
cuffs, with liberal sprinkling of velvet
bows and ends scattered over the bodice
and skirts. These are very effective. and
greatly add TO the appearance of light
eolored toilet, but IL is always necessary
TO have them fastened in a manner that
admits of detaching them when the IN
eTitable day of their visit to the laundress
arrives. The very smallest of satety-pins
are of cOmmendable value for this pur-
pose, and by simply fastening the pin in
side the bodice or skirt they are rendered
invisible
Many women object to the exception
ally long gloves which wholly cover the
arm with wrinkled kid and glove of
moderate length is considered in excel
lent form, six or eight button glove be-
ing worn by very large class of fash
lonable women whose word and style is
law in their varied social circles. A sleeve.
however small, a dainty cap even, is
looked upon as in better taste than the
mere strap OF last winter. Half low lin
lngs and unlined sleeves are worn upon
the street with costumes of black lace,
but never by women who understand re-
fined elegance in dress.
A pretty model of bonnet in black and
white shows brim of rare cut jet, with
soft crown of white silk gauze embroidered
in very delicate flowers. Points and airy
loops of gauze are raised high in front.
mingled with one long jet leaf and a gilt
tering jet aigrette. Another bonnet of pale
yellow brown tulle has a brim of lace
straw OF the same shade. This is also
pointed and looped in front. and held by
two long Gaggers of bronze and amber
thrust in the left side. Black lace is laid
over colored crepe lisse or tulle as a trans
parent, notably over heliotrope, Charles Y.
pink, Chartreuse green and Isabella yellow.
White lace bonnets are shown with cor
onets OF velvet, or, newer than these, with
brims Of mauve, JET, olive or pearl beads
In the almost limitless list of summer
nantes are Valois pelisses, made in very
odd fashion. There is jacket portion fit
ting the form very closely, and made up
over silk lining. This reaches well over
the hips, and is about an equal length all
around. being finished at the edge by
very narrow band of jetted galloon, below
which IS applied a veritable skirt of black
lace flouncing, which is nearly as long as
the plain skirt of black MORE worn be-
meath. The pelisse is open all the way
down the front of the skirt portion, and in
the back is an extra wide sash of black
MORE ribbon. The jacket part is made va
riously of chantilly. Spanish, guipure, or
point d'esprit net, silk canvas, fower-bro-
caded gauze, beaded grenadine and many
other handsome materials in black, suit
able for summer weary. Y. Post.
FOE OF BELLIES IN GREEN.
A protest should be raised against the
vivid and unspeakably hideous shade of
yellow green that is so largely used in new
costumes, and that makes the feminine
wearers resemble colossal south African
parrots. Any kind of green, even thepalest
and most delicate hue, can only be worn by
women OF certain type-those for in
stance, who have skins like ivory and red
dish golden hair. But when it comes to
the startling emerald tints that compose
the latest gowns, word of remonstrance
is not out Of place. The color itself is ex-
tremely beautiful on grass plot and lilac
bush, bat it is, nevertheless horribly ugly
when put into material at so much yard
There is no woman living TO whom it is
becoming. Then there is something else
that appears 70 need modification-sleeves
The leg of-mutton sleeve is both pictur-
esque end pretty on a slim, youthful fig
ure. But is that any reason why every
other fat woman one meets, young or old,
as the cGss might be, should have ridicu-
lous pafi5 standing out on her shoulders
like iucipient wings? And then what is
the meaning of those strengthening
patches That appear at the tops of so many
arms-nondescript ornaments, neither
puff nor 3 slash, nor yet exactly an inser-
ton, but sort Of timid compromise in
which all three have a share2 1t does
seem pity that with so much good taste
everywhere. and so varied an assortment of
exquisite fabrics from which to choose in
the shops We should be compelled to see
these u19DEtrOsites-a procession of green
figures be1uffed, bepatched. and, what is
more, bebustled.-P PHILADELPHIA Press.
sEcBEz OF THE FEMININE TOILET.
A reporter visiting Castle Garden the
other day say an Italian woman pull a big
piece OF white chalk from her pocket. and.
with the aid of a small hand glass, rub the
chalk several times along the part in her
Jet black hair. Ii was a new wrinkle, he
thought. and subsequent inquiry among
the regular officers of the Garden showed
that they, too, were in ignorance of the in
novation. Later three Italian maidens
who were sitting in q group of dozen or
more Of their countrywomen thrust
their hands into cap1cious pockets and
produced three sticks of chalk. As many
pocket looking glasses were brought out
aud then with great care the newly arrived
foreigners set to work to whiten the part
that divided their shiny locks at the center
of their heads. The operation continued
for fully ten minutes before they were
satisfied that the furrow was immaculate
whiteness. Then they returned the chalk
and looking glasses TO their pockets and
settled down to admire one another.
" 1t is q custom, said the famous Castle
Garden bootblsck, that is followed by
only small number of Italian people. 1t
corresponds to the cheek painting of Amer
lean women. The Italians chalk the part
in their hair to give it a noticeable white
ness Ii shows their glistening and oily
black hair to better advantage, and, &C
cording TO number of prominent physi-
clans, preserves and hardens the scalp.
But few American women know of the
scheme. bat suppose when they hear of
il there viii be a regular corner in the
chalk MARKEDLY. l. Mail aud Express
SKIRT srEELs
With the present style of dress, stee!s in
the back Of the skirt are a necessity, and
upon their proper adjustment the stylish
effect of the tonrnure depends. There are
various methods of arranging these steels,
and from two to five are used, according
to the hight of the person and the amount
of protuberancy desired, and the lengths
vary as much as the numbers. In some
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