The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1887-08-14
4 FzYNa TRIP TO MUNICH
King Ludwis's Capital. Its Aspect, its Man.
ners, and tts Art.


Orient express. which is decent enough train
both as regards speed and comfort. Tho I'm
mense railway station Is q model station but
vast bare, and cold looking. In a few minutes
I am In tho Macmillan strasse, in an immense
cosmopolitan hotel. The elevator lands me on
the third floor; an elegant blond valet conducts
me to charming room, where my brst moVo-
ment is to look out OF tho windows. How
amusing Is this first look out OF high-porched
hotel window over the roofs and spires and
towers Of an unknown town On ono OF these
roofs noticed two plumbers at work ham,
mering zinc. They are whlstling. the one
treble. the other base. an old minuet. These
excellent plumbers are evidently practised
musicians, and their minuet Is charming.
Table dh0te at $780," suggests the waiter.
Unearthly hour 1t is now past 2 o'clock. There
is timo for a stroll through tho town before
dinner. Which wayp know not and it mat
tors little. To know the way is to lose the pleas
ure OF exploring. Macmillan strassep Very
good: I will 70 down this broad Macmillan
strasse. which seems to DO the fashionable
promenade and the fashionable shopping quar-
ter. Here are picture shops and milliners' shops
and tobacco shops and caf6s, colossal cafes
with prim little mattresses dressed in black.
Here the broad street spreads out into square
adorned with gardens and shady trees, and
lined with tall yellowish succeed buildings in
q sort OF Tudor style OF architecture. On tho
right, that immense building is the National
Museum, tho South Kensington Of Munich.
Then the street continues, between gardensa and
villas, until 1t crosses the bridge over the swift
POLLING Isar. and divides into two branches
to pass round tho hill, on the top of which is
built the Maximilianeum, lofty pavilion
fanked by towers and by double tier OF ar
Ia. - . hail linz
70 crowned by q bronze Victory; above the
lower arcades are busts OF celebrated men, and
the walls are decorated with frescoes now
Following the shady promenade along, tho
Isar, I arrived ut the Zweibrlcke strnsse, which
runs almost parallel with the Macmillan
under the Isar-Thor. which Is one OF the old
medinval gates and watch i,. towers. very much
saudy colors. Of no great artistic merit. repre-
senting a triumphal entry OF Louis V. OF Bava-
ria. Passing through this gate we come to tho
Gothic Town Hail. and on the other sides quaint
old houses very much bepainted and illumi-
s 81 Il s
is a charming piece of seventeenth century
~ Of red marble ~ Unit o by
corners are winged genuises combating, q
viper. q basllisk. Jon. and a dragon which
This Marienplatz, with its columns, its Gothic
Rath-hau its steep roofs. pierced with FIVE or
six tiers OF attic windows its painted and or
haus, tie watch tower. and the antique gate
barring the way, has strong stamp ofancient
ip medeval costume, instead OF in English
eheyiots to PreWssnht, the c96mplete iiusl2n al
My Geographical instinct warming me to
p Of the Old paiaee. with It's petareslne
spns sna x6oss as s
Of the scene in Faust" where Liesci.en at tho
well publishes in
courts Of the old Residenz, which strongly sug-
especially Of Merton; caught a glimpse OF the
Hofgarten. surrounded BY vast arcades deco.
h gh aaa SO 9
which is a triumphal arch copied from that Of
Constantine at Rome and surmountod BY Q
obey VAs the rein OF majestic figure Of Bavaria.
At the other end Of the street Is reproduction
1na wi doubs and np
proiuslon Of doiilsh statues and Complicated
c SSasss a Of Rome The n Ludwig strass
straight long bF3ad Ard magnificent Is !in9d
tatons f's paaee But
enough for. this afternoon; and, turning and
passing With wondering eyes the fpst once,
frescoes Oh a red ground. l found my way back
to the hotel Just in time for dinner.
1 L
venture to think that table d'h3te dinner
without host Is not one OF the most brilliant
va %opd tabs dh5e exga
elegance. threadbare anecdotes and common;
place prattle ut any rate gave semblance OF
anireeze the guests. It Is bad enough to have
to eat roast mutton with undressed salad and
e in sens SeS
dh6te was one Of the saddest have seen.
IN nhn Iroh IN Dix n
themselves her s a countenanee. the men looked
gloomy and scarcely dared to exchange a few
Walters waf Under The Command Of bioatod chief
operated In military fashion. each having mis-
axed post. At the 80, sound fl. Of an lar, angry bell
tramp Of breaking boots, and the various bat:
talions marched out Of the room. At a second
rying dish OF meat or vegetables, the other
bearing aloft bowl Of sauce. And this march
t, and sS lasted for one b Ss aa hs
strasse. sat down outside the hotel. and watch,
ed the movement of the street. which was full
cd with good looks. Soldiers abounded. of
course. and enliyened tho ,cray street with
olive green bound with carmne. What a pro.
fusion Of salutations. and. even on the part of
civilians. what generous and wide-swcepinS
cap courtesyl crossed the road. and entered
q cafe full Of military men and civilians. Sud
denly, having emptied his pot Of beer, a little
sword marched to the other, end Of the room
where an oilicer was sitting, danced round to
full face saluted danced round again with a
clanking OF spurs. and then marched out with
conscious Of accomplished duty.
What q beer-drinking place it is! One of
the first things that struck me in my afternoon
walk was the number OF beer saloons and tho
multitude of servant maids whom saw in the
streets carrying glass pots with polished pew
ter lids and handles. These pots. noticed,
were invariably only half full of beer. Why
so7 20 thu. servant maids Of Munich ENJOY
the right OF drinking half the beer thoy buy,
or are there no half measures1 What is this
mysteryp Furthermore. saw many soldiers
walking along the streets carrying single
pots 81 beer or series Of twelve pots Or
ranged In portable racks In one of the
passages OF the old Resdenz 1 even saw
Q sentry standing in his box and keep
guard rooms. through the open DOORS, ! saw
long tables dotted with beer potts. and soldiers
hiding their faces in capacous pewters. In
the cafes saw ciyilians-men, women, and
children-drinking beer. some out of glasses,
some out Of glass pots with pewter lids. and
lids. Why these distinetionsl And each one.
after taking u hearty draught. shut down the
lid OF his pot. In this cale wnere l was SLIPPING
my den,i- tasse these stupendous beer-drink ing
pna inna IVA in full swing What To h,.