The Bottineau pioneer. (Bottineau, N.D.) 1885-1895, 1887-05-26

ChcSe ways prevent rapid evaporation.
The trees preserve the water, which IS
essential to their growth.
TIL Care of Trees.
The Woman's Educational Associa-
ton of Boston, several months, ago
engaged Prof. Goodale, of Harvard
college to give a course of lectures on
botanical subjects. His last lecture
was entitled ''Some Hints About the
Care of Trees After stating that ma
ture knows how to sow seeds, he CON
tinued by saying: Take any n of
u trees-for example a willow: The
catkins are 10Y increasing in size, the
seeds are ripening, by the end of June,
they will be ready to be dispersed.
BY means of the delicate hairs at
tached, these seeds will be carried to
a great distance. Falling ON a dry
soil, they will amount to nothing, but
in a damp soil they will terminate at
once; two cotyledons, a little shoot, and
a little wood will be made. The coty-
lcdons and other leaves will fall off in
the fall. but there will be a terminal
bud and probably two. or three more
auxiliary buds left behind. So the lit
tie feeding will do very we'll through
the winter and will grow on next
spring. If we took this willow seed,
kept it through winter, and planted it
in the spring what would occur? The
conditions are very different, for the
vitality of these seeds is retained for 4
short time only and can not stand a
thorough drying. The oak seed, on
the other hand, will last for three or
four years. Watch an acorn as
it falls to the ground. 1t does
not start the first year, and
sometimes not the second year either.
This is true of the hard nuts. Being
covered up by falling leaves, it is kept
warm and moist, and when it finally
starts will produce three or four rough
leaves. Plant this in the house and it
will make a growth Of three or four
inches. or eve a foot, in the first sea-
son. But this is mot as nature intend
ed it to be. When seeds are planted
for study care should be taken to pre-
serve natural conditions as far as pos
sible. Use Il sandy soil. Il mixture of
equal parts sand, leaf mold, and peat.
This keeps damp without being wei.
Plant IN shallow wooden pans with Stats
or perforating in the bottom, and keep
moist but not wet. Sow very thickly.
The moist will start, and then comes
the struggle for existence. In nature
few come to anything, but many are
wished for study, SO they must be
picked OUT Gifted with a bit of wood
or zinc), when they have two or three
trough leayes,' to another pan, where
they will have more room. Keep in
cool house or in a pit covered over so
that it may be opened on warm days to
harden them up. A Seeding runs
through its cycle rapidly in the house,
and should be cut back to make it
''stocky." When seedlings have at
tanned a height to necessitate a third
''pricking off, set out. Be careful
not to keep too wet.
AS to the management of gratis and
buds only a few general principles can
be given. Remember that Il stem is
made up of pith, wood, and bark, and
between the wood and bark is the cam
blum layer, the source and point of
growth for both wood and bark, the
vital point of the tree. Any graft or
cutting from some other tree which we
may wish to grow upon this stem has
also the pith, wood. bark and cambium
layer, and the condition of success is to
nave these two cambium layers brought
together and firmly united. The most
common way to do this is to cut a
branch off squarely and split it down
for a little; then insert in this split the
graft cut wedge-shaped at the base,
so that the two eambi UNI layers are in
contact Tie the whole firmly, and ex-
clude air and moisture from the wound
i 10y a coating of wax (made from bees
wax and resin). The two layers will
blend together if all goes we'll, and the
crude materials Brought into the tree
| by the roots will ascend into the scion
also. The buds Of the latter will de-
| velope into leaves, which will elaborate
this material, and neither scion moi
stem will affect each other very much
in most cases.
Budding should be done at a season
when the bark. can be lifted readily
from the cambium layer. Cut a healthy
bud with little silver or scale, cutting
into the cambium layer of course. Cut
q T-shaped slit in the bark of the tree
and slip in the scale of bark attached
to the bud. If it ''sets'' at all it will
get firm very soon, and does not usual
" need to be tied. Grating had best
be done in tho spring, for obvious rea
sons. but budding may be done any
time during the summer.
Not all plants can be grated or bud
dcd upon all others, and the range in
many instances is small. Mr.. jackson
Dawson says the pyrus japonica, for
instance. al be grated on itself, on