The Memphis appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1886-1890, 1887-04-17

AN elegant Tea gown TeCeHtly worn
at recherche affair up town was in
maize cashmere. 1t was made with
a full train, very skilltully draped,
and falling from the waist, the upper
portion of the gown fitting perfectly
to the person. China silk, in a
rather brilliant red shade, atfording,
however, n most attractive contrast
to the cashmere, formed the entire
front, beginning at the lace collar
and falling to the waist in fine, close
plaits. Here strip Of maroon vel
vet, cut like peasant bodice, inter-
vened, the plated silk reappearing
below it. The sleeves were made
full, but not in The "Mikado" style
so popular recently. They were
gathered in at the wrists with bands
of velvet; extending downward from
the shoulders were long square in
serted pieces of the velvet, and the
lace collar was surrounded by band
of the former fabric.
~
In draperies, the style which Pa
risiaDs are wont to ascrihe to their
idolized Sarah-the only Bernhard
are now likely to be generally
adopted, and any superhuous, bulky
or heavy draperies must be dispensed
with. The hghtest, most airy ar
rangement of the material used for
the drapery is the one most admired.
~"
A very odd walking dress, recently
noticed, was in beige camels hair
cloth, made with a short, pointed
basque, fitting exquisitely to the fig
ure; a draped tablier covering one
side of the skirt, the other being en-
tireIy exposed, and back draperies
laid in successive folds. On the
basque was inserted o piece Of stri-
ped sikh cannot call it a plastron
set in at the shoulder seams on
each side and coming to point upon
the bust. Down the center Of this
silk space q row of spherical buttons
appeared, but from that point the
garment was fastened, as it we're,
obliquely, the opening running to-
wards the left hip. The skirt was
entirely composed of the striped silk.
and cuffs and collar OF the same
added piquancy to the suit, which
had a somewhat bizarre effect.
-"
Vest effects are very noticeable on
the new toilettes and nearly all Of
the dresses shown have some kind OF
bust trimming, but the pointed plas-
iron, omnipresent a short time ago,
is no longer visible, or at least is so
seldom seen that it can scarcely be
called fashionable.
Jacket basques for wear upon the
street without extra wraps have
hoods upon them similar to those
upon the walking jackets, and they
are lined with fancy silks in the same
manner.
A reception costume, intended for
a young married lady, had the bodice
in the usual pointed form, back and
front, the material being faille fran
caise in Russian gray. Across the
front of the bodice, drawn from the
collar to the left hip, is q double
band of plum colored velvet, edged
on one side with the small metal but
tious which fastened the garment.
The drapery was extremely graceful
falling at the right in a deep point,
the left side drapery folding beneath
the right. The skirt was OF flise
satin' made quite plainly
Ecru and dark brown, apple
green and English pink, beige and
green, procelian blue and maize-all
these are pretty combinations for
spring millinery, but indeed there ID
no dearth of pretty tints and oOmbi-
nations. Oddly is the one feature
now sought in combining the trim
mings for spring bonnet this year,
and a great deal Of the head gear
worn exhibit combinations which
are considered outre and therefore a
la mode, but which are nevertheless
in unquestiOn%Sbly poor taste
Lisle thread hosiery was never
more popular. The colors worn are
many, but a preference is shown for
the more delicate tints. Stocking
on which the legs are of some solic
color, or black, are made with whit
or cream colored feet. Checked
patterns are more worn than stripes
@. II. b.