New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-01-23
THE COMING FASHIONS.
FABRICS FOR THE SPRING.

| WOOILEN AND COTTON GOODS FOR SPRING AND SUM-
MER-PATTERNs AND CoLoRs THAT WILL BE
POPULAR.
The wOollen goods imported for spring ss 10 De worn
winter wrappings are laid aside are Gamer
hairs, taeta cloths cheyots, chuddah cloths which mi
tate the chuddah of Valley Cashmere shaws anu
ladies' cloths" These goods soft and piabe, Dut
finely twisted in the weaving. that they viii not shriK
draw out of shape with wear.
The spring styles in dress arc extremely close Mt the
sides and bouant at the back; the becoming
pronounced than though remaining high ana
The styles for spring seem to necessate the use
of soft yet strong cloths which will lend themselves TO
graceful drapercs and the strain OF the smooth close Mt
ting portions OF the dress Silk understands which were
formerly considered luxury. become necessity
with the close fronts and sidos OF spring dresses
This silk lining, particle Of which must
be SEEM Is merely support for the wool SKIRT gives
spring and grace to the carriage and is thus entirely
different in effect from the wool skirt cotton lin
ing which cngs to the wearer, impeding the movements
and rendering the walking unsainly and awkward
PLAIDs AND STRIPES.
The first goods imported for French costumes are In
combination style, while English tailor frocks are sun
made in solid suits and less subject to change than
the more ornate French Large. bold paids are
shown for the underskrts of these dresses while the re-
nander OF the costume is OF plain goods matching the
groundwork Of the plaid, which Is used again ~ inc
collar and cuff and sometimes for long cntaWay coat
finished with a revers collar and tiny cuffs OF dark
velvet While plads repeat the same construct
ed lines which have been used since plads were Kho"h
the different tones OF the spring coiors are
80 combined that the effect Is strikingy diheren1
from any plaid have had before DraDs OF various
tones into the coong OF many OF the new goods
Primrose drab Is yellow fawn color, only little duier
in tint than canary There blue green drabs called
pigeon egg" reseda drabs with yellow green tnts anu
all shades of natural color from the yellow-brown
shades of beige the tnts Of unbeached cotton ana
the gray fcele tints OF flax Puppies, winch appear III
many tones of color under the general nane d IN bush
violet shades we'll the red purple which we areauy
know heotrope. These heotrope SHADES are co, .h
ned with drabs especially with the yellow drabs Win
charming effect This combination Is now seen IN 'no
French satines and other bright cottons displayed on
merchants counters for February sewing but the combi
nation is toned down on the wool gOoas 30 I'M. "a
bright rich plaid Is produced not too pronounced or
street wear Exquisite harmonies in color are formed Dy
combinations OF primrose and golden brown ia seSeIa
il pded with several darker shades Of the same color In
OTHER woollens beautiful color called Dy hlP @
''od rose" is shown among " dresSy "ooienS "ii'' ~
be used for watering place toilets -. .,o r,,,as
There are bold stripes in the same coorng OF the
which may used with plain goods. su1KlnK ulalr ca
fects are avoided In the combinations single uht
much lighter than has been worn IN psd or striped
skirt repeas Se color in darker shade. while the high
collar and cuffs of velvet are OF the sane coioi IA 40
The most elegant fabrics in wool paided or bro
caded with velvet In a variety OF designs
TAFFETA AND CHUDDAH.
Tafeta cloth, soft, silkenke wooen OF even tane'~
weave and feather weight" is among cloths whicn are
figured and striped with velvet IN the same tones OF coo
or In ingng Of several coors. fine ecru taiea cioIn
n cosbarred IN large pattern with brucaded SILK bands
which are caught down the sections with large nall
heads of velvet Other woolens are crossoarred wi'h
I'D ,hitlv se with velvet nail heads, while still others
are plaided with dark velvet ana Humha'eu ny '''
| tons with sunkcn points In white SILK -, ,,,,
pure white chuddah cloth Is used III eolpha,ioh ~
an zach stripe OF black and gray velvet brocaaed III
| These
Ike chuddah cloths which are Imported III an ne ~,
ason are shown with bands and uncut brocaded
down the centre This band IL inorte! lot sl PaoaII
while the remainder ot the dress Will be o p.an ooi'
finished with regulation high collar ana cum Oh 'eie-
SOME SNOWY PATTERNS.
There are many Pompadour patterns i'll tue veiVetns
! ured wooens which will lie chosen for dressy cos
tunes where display OF color is not out OF taste eoi
primrosetnted woollens cross barred WIN
velvet and striped with wide bands composed OF the TIM
est roseuds Other woods are brocadod with OahS ol
silk in flower and leaf There other wooens figured
with rectangular blocks velvet aud striped with bands
COMPOSED OF pokados OF velvet graduated IN size ana Ill
the medley OF bright and chcne effect These gay
rompadoir woollens will be made into watering pace
costumes IN combinations WIN hea'y faces anu eii'
cries. Standardization. ,,.,,, oJ,n.ed onl =
IN oreny ircs Iu the spring sty les are taken from
period when "A small woman was Tue Ieauel. my -
The artists kingdom 10 design patterns combined oo.o
10 suit her petite figure aud blonde infant Typ, Yi
beauty The high roll OF hair now worn by asioape
! render her stature more COMMANDING -, ,,, ,ro
Chevron stripes. Zh-zay on seilcooTeu slou a.,
shawn in all shadts OF natural color AMI SILVER su'ucs'
They will be made into solid costumes Tor lls,iql
There are also some tine harstripes p!eu VNct w's
silk whlck may be used in combination win pah hiui
sripe or To give touch OF freshness To dresses uauc nt
season the hair lines then worn lhrrS are a md
! Hack and white brown ana "hlte ana
other combinations OF color IN line cheeks OF striped viii
! bands formed OF rectangular pioVAS'
DRESSES FOR SUMMER OUTINGS.
Angoa cloth is "A new goods Of light weight with very
limit will %
crnkle with campness almost all goods OF pure wool
40 a, the seaside 1t is especially imported for lawn
,rris costumes and seaside They are shown IN
plau goods and III mixtures Ia which the many eo'orS
are caried together in the wool before the co'h
and known to merchants heather mixtures lfOh INC
effect Of the tiny flower seen In mass on inc ocoen
moors These Angola cloths striped and plaided ID
mall natterus with raised cords the size of wrapping
cotton and in the color of the goods This corded cross
bar or plaid forms part of the dress III combination
with the stripes. IL,
plain ladies' cloths for tailor suits repeat the golden
! browns reddish copper browns, dahIa' wine
and beliorope colors OF winter. Some ex-
quslte shades are shown In silver gray
IN ali shades from the pale tints OF bright silver TO the
| dark gray OF the oNidizcd metal ...,. J..
one OF The most durable goods imported for tailor sts
- battste cloth made In Holland and formerly SOD excu
sivey for gentemens suits III south America india ana
tailor suits and IL continues in favor as 1t VIII
| not shrink or change color Win wear anu 10 s"''
nJ saiwre Of the spring wool goods which will be vel
come nv every one II the importation Oh ali maeils ~
the ward instead of in robes There arc no SSJ pa.
| tar,s Technically known among merchants ds ,onoo
@ e French goods and no robes In market eX-
| cent of Cheap German manufactures ,,, ~. .,,.
Il sa,I that the Jackets for spring Will ne quite shor
op6 made Of light checked and drab cloths ilrnisneu
ahd ie ts and that long usters OF dIab cloths fur
nishea with yfron like gentlemans oVercoat- VIII pe
| worn. .. ,>o,,s
Erench cot,ons imported for summer frocks are now
| -, 4, abundance on the merchants counters. The
durable zephyr cloths and zephyr gnghams are among
tho choicest goods imported. They found IN the regu
aon patterns OF check pads and stripes In al the new
nrmrose pale buc pink and other tins OF the season
The fancy for designs Of the reign OF Louis XIV Is shown
in the frequent combination of delicate pnRS ana due III
fine broken paids on silver gray or primrose
o, a., ,asbioned lavender and buff gnghams are made
-. |. a. nd nrimrnse bingham.