The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1887-01-28
new YORK FASHIONS.


l use Gamer SHIFT anu OtueT SO1t Isvlllet
wool fabrics for winter dresses in pre-
ference to the smooth-faced cloths ussl
by English tailors- These are in solid
colors for dressy costumes. and in fin,
stripes or checks for morning wear
The camel's-hair cloths at three ant
four dollars . yard make very ricl
dresses when combined with velvet OF
plush. or with all the accessories. such
as vest and panels. made of fur; indeed
the entire lower skirt, or all that is Wis
ible of it. is sometimes made of fur, SC
that the dress is combination of WOO
and fur. A skirt of seal-skin is lux
ury for midwinter. and is worn under
short poloraise of camel's-hair Of the
same shade, or else Of dark kiue 81
messy green. A brown camel s-hair
dress has all the lower skirt that is Wis
ible in the front and up the right side
| covered with dark brown mink fur, and
another of drab wool is borlered all
| around with natural beaver, and there
| is vest of the beaver in the short coat
| made To wear in the street. Leopard
! skin is used as vest and on the lower
| skirt of brown velveteen suits for young
| ladies. and there is a sling-sleeve cape,
| with a turban and muff of the same
| spotted skins. The long-maned black
Russian lamb-skin is liked with blue
toilettes. and is prettily used as Dor
der on skirt of blue wool striped
around with black bands that gradually
become narrower at the top; the drapery
is plain blue camel s-hair.
Plaid velvet and plain plush lower
skirts have found great favor this VIM
ter. and instead of appearing only as a
panel on one side. they may be made
quite full. and show on both sides of
the apron drapery and up the middle Of
the back. The amateur dress-maker
will find this design easily carried out,
and can feel assured that her simple
dress IS STYLISH one. The wool over.
skirt may be male all in one piece. with
the selvage at the bottom, simply
caught up in folds far back On each hip,
and draped to fall in two points behind;
or else it may be OF two shaped breadths,
with two rows of stitching on the hem.
and soft Arab folds dropping from the
back Of the belt. where the great full-
ness IS massei.
The home drcss-maker who asks for
details of basques may choose between
the plain fronts. the vest front. and the
full pleated front. Thus plain front
is liked for stylish camel s-hair basgues
that have trimming of passementerie,
such Us dark blue wool with black pas
senenteric in points on one edge. and
and with tiny balls or buttons on the
other straight edge. The basque is
pointed in front, short on the hips. and
has two box pleats ending the middle
form. The pointed passementcrie ex-
tends down each side of the small cro-
cheted buttons that fasten the front
(the points hearty meeting in the mid
dle), and also along the hips and back
next to the box pleats behind. The coli
lar and small cuffs are covered with the
passementerie. ard inside the neck and
sleeves is white feather-edged ribbon
with Il small bow and ends. The fine
checked camel s-hair and the hair
striped woods are sometimes cut bias
both in front and back Of the basque.
These are then tastefully trimmed with
rows of the wool pinked in points al
ternatin- with plain points. laid to-
gether in a band. and passed around
the neck and down the front. tapping
to the left side like ,ichu. Inside this
band is 4 V-shaped vest Of velvet of the
same shade rs the plain wool. or in
contrast. Thus gray and blue checked
canel's-hair has plain grayish-blue
velvet and grayish-blue wool with it.
and the pretty finish to the neck and
sleeves is loops of white satin ribbon
only a fourth of an inch wide. set on
in three rows.
Instead of folds or frills in the neck
or sleeves. mcdi>tes now send home
each dress waist finished off with rib
bonS. which may be white or in direct
contrast with the dress material, "a
roSe-pink ribbons are in messy green
silk basques. and red or orange in those
of dark blue. The gauze ribbons with
Topped or tasSelled or feathered edges
are used for this purpose. They are
folded over not quite double. so that
both of the fancy edges will show just
above the collar of the dress. 4 tiny
bow is added in front. or stands up on
the left side. and similar bows are on
the back seams of the sleeves Just in-
side the cuff.
Plated fronts of basques are liked for
slender figures. and are seen even in
the heaviest velvets. They have two
plaits at the top Of the shoulders next
the collar. and are then drawn to the
becoming plain at the waist
line. Thus 4 black velvet basque for a
trained dress TO be worn at receptions |
has the shoulder plaits folded toward |
the front. leaving V-shaped place on
the lining. which is filled in with Jet
beaded velvet, and the whole is fasten-
ell by small flat velvet buttons that are |
with fine jet beads. A dark blue |
velvet with denli-train has blue rides
cent beads covering the open V-shaped
plastron. and loops of the same trim
the edge of the basque. Some of the
striped silks and velvets are made with |
these full fronts. giving pretty effect
Of fan waist; the back has the stripes
slightly tapering. and instead of \
position basque. a smooth point not
very sharp is continued over the full
gathers at the top of the train.-Har-
oer's Bazaar.