The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-05-01

station and takes his seat in luxurious carriage
for Algiers. railroad in Africa. which we
have been wont to think of a a land of deserts,
TO be traversed only by slow moving caravans.
In my boyish days | read the travels of Mungo
Park. and was particularly moved by
the incident OF his one oc-
casiou to en- African village and sitting
down footsore and weary under a tree where
the natives him but passed him with utter
neglect. till some women came and invited him
10 their hut and gave him food, and when he
had lain down the mating, he heard them
singing
The white came and sat under tree
The wind roared and the rain fell
Pity the white
He has wife TO bring him milk
No wife to grind his
Perhaps Mungo Park fell asleep listening to
that song and dreamed a dream of the future
OF the dark continent but in his widest dream
was never a vision so utterly beyond belief in
his waking hours, as that the day would come
when travellers would be whirled in ire-drawn
cars along the shores and over the mountains of
Africa.
1t is long days ride from Oran to Algiers.
10 wonld not be long in France America, for
the distance is but APO kilometres tabout $50
miles) or as far as from New York to Boston,
TO w ashington, over which one of our fast trains
could easily pass in six hours. But in
country so new as this, and where
there is but one Through train" day it
must needs stop at every little French settle
ment Impatient Americans may think this
very tedious. But l found the day full of inter
est, as L was in no haste to reach destined
point. bat only wished TO see the country. Hav-
ing, with the Bishop of Gibraltar and his charm
ing wife compartment to ourselves, we had
the utmost freedom of conversation, and when
Africa grew dull, could change the subject and
talk of England or America. But Africa did not
grow dull We were continually looking out of
the windows and making our observations. On
leaving Oran we bore away from the sea. of
which we did not have glimpse again till we
approached Algiers. the country was at first
uncultivated. A few Arabs here and there were
tending their 1ocKs, but for the most part the
region seemed thinly inhabited, although the
native population may be more considerable
nearer the coast. But l was more interested in
observing the beginning of French settlements.
AS stopped at the stations, it pleasant to
see with what care the French emigrants were
cultivating their plats os ground, surrounding
their little houses with gardens in which were
orange trees, and olive trees and other fruit
trees grown in semi-tropcal climate. while in
a wider circle were vineyards (for the French
to take by instinct to the cultivation OF the
vine) and fields of wheat and barley. / observed
along the route what l thought were haystacks,
but told that they were not for the food of
cattle, but for the service of man in another
way, being stacks of a kind of grass which is
used as a material for making paper. and has
become important article Of commerce.
Do you say that all this put together
does not amount to muchl But these are the
beginnings of civilization. These scattered
farm houses will be so many centers of attrac-
ton to French emigrants, around which will
cluster more and more thatch rooted cottages
till the hamlet has become village, and the
provinae Of Oran will be = reproduction of what
one sees in the less peop!ed parts of Normandy
Brittany
The pleasure of this days ride was increased
by the truly African weather. Although
mid winter il was almost like a day in June in
America. The peach trees were in full blossom,
the air was soft and balmy, and the sky without
a cloud
On our right the long chain of the Atlas
mountains, which, in the afternoon. as the sun
sank behind us. took the richest lights and
shadows, that made us all sit silent, gazing at
the magnificent spectacle; and scarcely had the
sun set before the full moon in the opposite
horizon throwing soft light over mountain and
plain.
1t was nearly 10 o'clock when our train swept
round the curve of beautiful bay, across which
we saw in the distance long rows of lights that
showed that we were approaching Algiers.
Here at last find one place in Africa which
is familiar ground to English and American
travellers OF late 1T has become the fashion
among the seekers after nilder climate. who
had before limited their flight to the Riviera, to
the Mediterranean. OF the extent of this
Anglo-Amercan invasion mad proof on apply
ing for lodgings at the principal hotel, where l
was told that There was not a room to be had"
and the answer l received at a
second hotel. and third. bird. l finally
next mo rning drove out to Mustapha SUPERIOR,
the fashionable suburb of Algiers where
at the Hotel Orient, find myself thoroughly
comfortable as l could be in Paris, and. in many
respects. so, for here l live out of
doors. take my morning coffee on veranda
which looks out on a scene that combines every
element of beauty, from the mountains to the
The hotel stands on the top of hill, from
which, turning my eye the right and left, L
see along the hillside. villas peeping out from
under the rich vegetation; while, over and be-
yond in the distance. rise the mountains of Ka-
byiia capped with snow; and in 'front.' filling the
whole horizon, stretches the blue Mediterranean.
The only drawback to the pleasure of this is that
am here alone for my family, shrinking from
journey in Africa, took refuge in Florence. where
they now shlvering under the winds from
the Apennines while telegraph to them that
II am in 'paradisen" To me it is paradise to
sit under the shadow of the palm. which reminds
me of those old days when it sheltered me from
the noon tide heat, while the Arab and camel
were stretched upon the sand And now, as
look up to that tall, straight trunk. with its
featherv crown, it seems to look down upon me
with a friendly nod of recognition. as if to say:
81 have seen you before. on the desert and on
the Nile Yes, old friend, and l hope you will
see me again, for l think of no better fate
tn an for half the year to dwell with you, and
then,
When the swallows homeward fly,
To take flight also back to our more rugged
northern cline. HENRY NJ. FIELD.
MEXICAN wASHERWOMEN.