New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-12-26

only fairly begun when has sucooeded IN soelnst-
Ing his foreign varieties. He must know eli about
the processes of vino fermentation and Of blending
Most OF the California vino makers are mon who arc
we'll read but they have been forced to gain the creator
part OF their knowledge In the winery by hard and
costly experience What succeeds In France or on the
Of Climate ana so mas Ss Carefully aSi snS
led The instinct which tells tho wine aker when
particular blend to make in order to produce a do
sired flavor or color comes only from long training
or the senses of smell, taste and sight. 1t ~ work
which takes the best Judgment and II can never be
safely delegated TO subordnates.
FERMENTATION
Even the most experienced wine makers are con-
stany learning nav lessons In the treatment of vino
Tbs subject Of fermentation Is of the most diff
cult TO master, and msly cask of good wine has
Doen ruined through bal Judgment in treating 1t dur
ing this delicate stage. This year the excessive heat
that prev allied during greater part of the vintage
taught otSrvant wine makers valuable lesson in fer
mentation II has generally been the custom when
the grape juice and tho skins in the watts showed signs
Of fermentation In three four days leave the watts
undsturbed for so long a week before drawing OF
the wine into casks. This year the heat great
that he wine threatened to spoil, owing to the rotung
OF the sAns or the ponace, as it Is called Hence the
wine was generally drawn of in three days. The
result showed ~ good color as usual with far finer
naNOr. aud fermcn alton set In soon as tho wine
was drawn OF The claim has been made hitherto
tha' no good color could be secured tOr c. cts or
Burgundios without leaving the skins In the juice for
az least four Or Eve days The result has been made
TO mpat that strong disagreeabie taste to the wine
which is known earthly The conclusion reached
by this years perence is that the skins should
Kept as short time pCSs bic with the Juice
as II Is technically called. II the public could DO
educated to Judge wine by the taste rather than the
color, there would DC great imprOy ement in CaOr-
DlG wine In the effort TO secure good color much
OF the wine Is spoiled in the fcrmentng vat. whilo
This craving for high color leads 10 Of tho adu
tcrailon with cherry Juice and other compounds.
NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.
Next 10 caro- in fermentation, or In fact Of equal
importance. Is cleanliness in the winery II DIFF
fcult task 10 teach the French Italian or German
workman In the California winery the importance Of
the same cleanliness that he would find necessary
a dairy. The slightest careicsSncss in cleaning Of
CASKS VIII leave bits of old matter that VIII ruin tho
fine flavor Of new wine. SO, too in the vats aud in
the cellar. Nowhere should the fungus from wine
furncS he allowed TO gather for IL Is TO cont ami
nate the wine Yet IN many California wineries
viii find nothing lut the eathcn hOOr into which all
Impurities Sink and given of Ia cxbaatio,s tho
cashS Will lie coated with dirt. awakening the sus-
piciOn that what IS so foul without cannot hr wholly
clean within At its best, wine making much
dirt: the jnce OF the grape sticks To everything:
evening, after the operations Of no day II
dirty wine house or foul cellar