Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-04-18
SPRING STYLES FOR MEN.
What the SxveIls and Those Who Are
Not so swell VIII Wear.

From the New York Sun.
This Is going to be a season remarkable for a de-
parture from the conventional styles OF the past
/ five years, during which time men have been
wearing materials OF the Quieter designs. The
notable feature OF this years styles Will be an In
taiors say that last season really marked the be-
| ginning of this change.
Morning business suits will be made up OF vari-
Gus plaids and stripes according to the wearer's
taste or fancy. In the English suitings or wooden
| goods, from which the morning costume is made,
both plaids and stripes are well marked and Of a
good size, and they run In variety OF colOrS, in
which the predominating shade seems to be
| brown. though there are great many dark and
| Scotch grays grayish browns, reddish browns dEcy
| In the makeup OF the business suit the sack
| coat and the three-button cutaway are retained
| In their general features, though when made
in the NOR pronounced Plaids the sack is con-
ton cutaway buttons even lower than hereto
| fore. The waist has been heightened little,
skirt, and thus for the coat shorter look is
obtained though in reality It is OF about the same
length 1t should be made to f1t closely to the
! tent OF the past two or three years. The desire
the part OF the extremists in dress to get very
low opening coat has brought out new style, the
two-button cutaway, which is likely to be seen
| considerably among the very swell element.
On all plaid cutawayS the outside breast pocket
is yet in favor, and so the flaps at the sides,
| which may cover real pockets or dummies, at the
wearer's option The sleeves should ut fairly
Snugly, and curve to conform TO the natural posi-
| tion OF the arm. At the cuff is vent, and two
buttons are used to trim. AS in past seasons, the
use OF waddings in the shoulders win be avoided,
| though the square effect is desirable for most
| men. and IS obtained by skillful tailOrs shrewd
enough TO locate the shoulder seams on the
| The morning sack coat in the same goods may
have three or four buttons. There is no very new
what straghter in form form, and made to button all
! the way down II desired, the corners not falling
| away as formerly. The sack will be OF good
length 1t viii shape in snugly but not too closely,
10 the back, a moderation In this respect being
| among the improvements.
| In the vest OF the business suit the opening Is
| cut still lower than heretofore, and the popular
style Is the single-breasted notched-cOllar, five
or six button vest. The no-cOllar vest viii be
because the latest style is that sort OF vest with
| the low opening, showing beneath the front
edges false collar made from white Marseilles
! or pique.
The fancy vestings, by the way, continue to in
crease In favor and the variety OF designs is quite
beWiidering. The majority OF them seem to be In
small hgures, combinations Of dots little flowers
| stripes, checks, &c, In red and black, red and
white, blue and black, and other combinations.
| The trousers OF business, suit or OF any other
suit worn this year, are cut even wider than was
| the rule last year. The trousers OF the swell
| young man now measure nineteen inches around
the knee and eighteen at the bottom Trousers
| in fancy goods will have side seams finished with
| quarter-inch welt; in the smoother or dressier
goods the seam Will be discarded. All trousers are
| made entirely without spring.
The dark diagonal coat, fancy vest, and cassl-
form what is properly called the afternoon SUIT
| "a suit, by the way, that has In many instances
replaced the Prince Albert costume. For the
diagonal retains its hold among dressy, men
The three-button cutaWay IN this material
trimmed BY fashionable tos with
wide. The coat itself has slightly more pro-
nounced cutaway. In the trousers worn with the
afternoon suit striped materials predominant, and
| the designs and shades are almost nmitless. A
fancy vest In all its gorgeOusness will complete
| the costume, though in the few warm months It
may be replaced BY the lighter linen vest. ~
1t is the opinion of about all the swell tailors
that the Prince Albert, or frock coat, to-day
and probably it will not, ever be dispensed With:
and yet, with the younger men particularly, the
occasions when it is imperative to wear frock
coat seem TO be growing fewer and fewer every
year. For funeral, a day wedding formal
afternoon gathering the Prince Albert coat viii
sill be necessary, OF course. Its cut conforms to
| the changes in that OF the business OF afternoon
coat.
In spite Of the fact that changes in the, dress or
evening suit are always Slighter and occur less
frequently than in any other suit, there is a big
difference between the dress coat of TO-DAY and
that haI,o OF only three seasons ago; The nearest
correct style continues to be that with the
shawl collar; that is, with the collar and.laDel
forming one continuous roll 1t Is urged in favor
of this style that it succeeds in making that deli
cate and so long desired difference between
yourself and the waiter who serves you
The entire front Of this coat is faced with a
purpose and extending back from the edge or
inches. The popularity Of worsted goods Tor dress
coats Is steadily on the increase. This wOrSted
wrinkle has come to stay in the form of what is
called dreSS-cut cloth, having the appearance OF
minute weave OF diagonal These goods have es-
taDShed their strongest advantage with tailorS in
their elasticity enabling the cutter to make good
ut where the broadclOth, possessing no stretching
qualities at ALL Is difficult to handel Even
tive tailors admit that the growing popularity Of
worsted goods for dress suits is only sly step for
ward In the direction Of the OF cOlOrs in mems
Irkl0d yyo in fnRo
Is the use OF fancy vests with dress suits many of
which are In black and cOlOred silks; piuue and
lions OF coors being principally black and white
red, and the softer shades of yellow.
The trousers OF the evening suit will be slightly
wider but not at all to that extent observed In the
business trousers. The side seams are still finished
with trimming, but the general use OF the wide
galoon binding SO notieeably during the past two
seasons has quite lost its favor, probably because
OF the entertainments of the ready-made trade In
stead OF this feature is substituted nat silk braid
seam.
This Springs silk hat Is smaller in its general
proportions than that of last year. because it has
a straighter crown with less bell toit. The rims
are quite narrow, though the dip and curve at the
side are about the same. The SeaSOnable Derby
| hat for business wear has rather small round
crown with narrow brim, is closely curled at the
Sides and Is about the same height as heretofore
Light weight DerbyS are increasing in demand for
summer wear, and are made, without lining
These hats will be worn through the SUMMED
| and there are sJ,le matters who say that follow
1
with many New York mem, the silk hat may be
correctly worn the year round even In the hottest
| weather.
In gloves the different shades In tan and reddish
| brown are about right, and the backs may be
stitched in black silk or in silk OF the same color
They have two or three buttons
One can pick his SeaSOnable cane from an un-
limited variety; but whatever its material or de-
sign, il must be large, or 1t is not fashionable
In shoes, the movement toward Squarer wider
| tOed style has not met with general favor. u ,e
prevailing fashion seems to demand shoe neiu ,er
too narrow nor too wide, but rather one OF On zee
fully rounded outline, giving a better line n the
foot and dressing the average man much moC sat
| iSfactorily.
There are few changes in shirts and COZ ars for
dresSy men. The high collar is still the In ;xOrahe
| mode. Those with the lapels turned back are
| rather the more popular, and they are of a more
pronounced style, and close in front. Link cufYs
remain the proper caper. Many fancy Shirts will
be worn, from present Indications ard thew will
be In various designs, such StrireS checks and
pronounced plaids in black, blue, Red pink and
even combinations with collars and Guns to
match. In dress shirts the bOSOns4are cut wider
| TO follow the demands OF the ShieFd-shaped vest
aud they are made TO be worn witt. Guns and col
lars attached or detached, at your
correct number OF studs with a
dress shirt, is happily solved by the swell haber
d&iaher, who says that one small solitaire diamond
Is the eminently proper thing; STILL two or three
| small studs OF pearl or or gold may be worn as
heretofore The four-in-hand scarf holds its re-
markably long run OF popularity, and there is the
usual vast number OF new cOlOrs, generally In the
| lighter shades, as the season demands.
Hrl A~rn .