The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-09-27
HOW MEN WILL DRESS.
THEIR UNDERWEAR, COATS. HATS
AND SHOES.

The Frock Coat in Favor Again-No
Decided Change For Evening Wear
The Fall Style of Hats Different From
Last Season-Canes and Umbrellas.
From the Ne,c York Tribune.
Nominally Sept. marks the introduction
of those changes in the fashioning and ma
terial of mems garments which pass under
the title of fall styles. In reality, however,
it is not until another month has passed that
youthful or would-be youthful Solomons ar
ray themselves in all their glory and tempt
the Indian summer sun in Fifth avenue or
the windows of clubs on that thoroCghfare.
On the art of dressing many books have
been written, but no Teufelsdroech has yet
arisen who has satisfactorily solved the
! enigma of ''who sets the fashion" Fifteen,
or even ten years ago, the young man
looked to Paris for his models. Nowadays
he yearns for London and its styles. But to
whom does the youthful Englishman look9
Not, as is often, but enormously said, to the
Price of Wales, for the Prince would not be
the perfect dresser he is if he did not him
self bow to the mysterious one. Fashion,
so far, at least, as men are concerned, is
| rather the combined wisdom and taste of
many master-minds Not each man, but
all men," as Mr.. Swinburne phrases it with
neatneSs.
A young man was at the pains the other
day TO find out in what direction this hidden
force will tend during the coming autumn.
Starting with the first principle, underwear,
he learned that the gorgeousness of hue
which lately marked the elaborate London
hosiery has been abandoned. The finest of
mer1no still prevails as the material, silk
drawers and shirts or 'Singlets, as the Eng
lish statesmen now term them, hardly proving
so comfortable or so warm in the long run,
but the colors are more subdued, fine pin
stripe of red on a white ground being the
latest pattern in these articles Socks for
evening wear are, of course, still made of
silk and they are still embroidered in quiet
patterns. Embroidery, too reaches to the
shirt front, though the plain front with three
studs is, perhaps, after all, the ''best form"
for evening dress The broad blue and pink
barred colored shirt has disappeared, it is
to be hoped forever, certainly until next
summer comes, for a colored shirt in winter
is thing to be abhorred. Collars are to be
moderately high, turned down in front in
various degrees of formality or the reverse,
The cuff is still fastened with link and
not with a solitaire, and the merest line of
it ought to project beyond the coat sleeve.
Neckties just imported are of rich dark
colored silks and satins, barred with colored
stripes on dark ground. They are tied i'll
a sailors knot, and the breastpin, though
not as omnipresent as formerly, is not yet
| out of date. Only the smallest and plain
est, however, can be fastened in the upper
corner of the knot.
Actors as a rule dress badly, off the stage.
at all events. They either dress too much
or too little A marked exception to this
rule is Herbert Kelley, the leading man of
the Lyceum theatre. He is probably the
best dressed man in New York, for no one
would accuse the Mr.. Wall who is SO often
spoken of in connection with the subject of
really dressing with good taste. A day or
two after his return from England, Mr.
| Kelcey walked up Broadway, on chilly
afternoon, in frOck coat and tall silk hat.
| The coat fitted as frock coat should fit,
| and was worn as one man in hundred can
| wear it. 1t was neither exaggeratedly
smooth nor wrinkled. 1t is mentioned here
| as drawing attention to the fact that the
| frock coat has once more regained its as
| cendancX for the afternoon wear, and the
cutawayNwill take its rightful place as an ar
| ticle of morning wear only before long. For
other morning clothes the tailors will use
this season, goods of rough-looking sur
| face in broken checks and stripes or mixed
| colors. Coats and waistcoats will be cut a
| trifie low in the neck, but the heart-shapeCi
opening is given over to the evil one in the
shape of the ''ready made" tailor. Trousers
are to be as wide as ever, and cut straight
| from the knee to the foot The ridiculous at
tempt made to introduce tailless dress coat
resulted naturally in failure 1t will be
| long before any decided change in the dress
worn after nightfa1l is widely adopted The
| dress waistcoat is to be cut rather more V
shaped than formerly; also, it is to be
judged, on account of the cheap tailors
Autumn overcoats will be in every shade of
twilled goods, and are single breasted, and
rather longer than last year.
| In hats there is a decided change This
part of a mans dress owes its style not to
individual fancy, but to trade combina-
ton. A man does not, as a rule, order his
hat to be fashioned in a particular way but
meekly accepts his hatter's ruling and wears
what he dictates. This year the autumn
hat will be trifie higher than its predeces
sor, decidedly more bell-shapeo in the crown
and with brim decidedly more rolled The
low hat the "biily-cock" or derby will be
of medium height with brim shaped like
| that of its silken brother The sqIIare-top-
ped hat will be worn by comparatively few
and owes its introduction TO the efforts OF
one well-known halter alone. Though va
rious shades of brown will be worn, black
will be in the best taste.
In shoes there will be practically no
change The toe will be pointed, but no
| tendency to eXaggeration Is to be noted.
For evening wear a plain patent-leather
without toe-cap is correct, while for day
wear the same leather with plain toe
piece is TO be worn All shoes viii be laced
instead of buttoned
| A not unimportant addition to a.nan's
| outdoor toilet nowadays is the stick or UNI
brella. The former of these are large and
tipped with small knob or two of silver
while umbrellas are shown of thinnest OF
proportions and topped with ingeniously
| carved handles