The Dickinson press. (Dickinson, Stark County, D.T. [i.e. N.D.]) 1883-1927, 1887-07-16
IN GUADALAJARA.
LIFE AMONG THE WORKERS OF 4
PROSPEROUS MEXICAN CITY.

PROSPEROUS MEXICAN CITY.
Attractions of "The Chicago Of Mexico"
View from the Cathedral Tower-A Pc
culiar Kind of Pottery.Rare Eiligrec
work-Feather Work.
Guadalajara-upon the left bank OF the
Rio Grande de Santiago, just 275 miles west
from the City of Mexico and 140 miles from
the Pacifc-has been called "the Chicago of
Mexico" because of its enterprise and liberal
iieas. Its present population is officially re-
corded rs o., ,S75, and, though so remote from
railroads and little known to the outer world,
1t has street cars, electric lights, telephones,
fine system of water works, and other al-
juncts of an advanced civilization. 1t lies i'll
the midst of region so fertile-where fruits,
cereals, and vegetables grow i'll astonishing
abundance-that the outlying haciendas
yield rs high as fifty bushels of corn to tho
acre twice i'll every year, the first crop being
planted in February and the second i'll July.
The city boasts of no fewer than fourteen
plazas, more than dozen public fountains,
innumerable churches, a fine opera house and
several theatres, an elegant casino or club
house, mint, u city hail. u splendid univcr-
sity, and the only academy of fine arts i'll
Mexico, except that of San Carlos at the
national capital. The grand cathedral-a
magnificent structure situated on the Plaza
de Armas-was completed in 1918, but it's
outer appearance was greatly impaired by the
earthquake of 1878, which destroyed the
cupolos Of both its towers.
From the top Of tho cathedral to- 'cr tho
lover of the picturesque may obtain u view
which will delight his soul. One thing that
will probably strike him with surprise, if new
to Mexican cities, is the absence of chimncys,
which in other countries form so prominent a
feature of such views In all this sunny
country there is no such thing as stove or
fireplace, hence no chinneys In Jalisco the
temperature remains at about 10 deg. from
year to year, and, though the traveller will
feel inclined to keep in the shade at MONDAY,
he should Wear flannel underclothng con-
stantly and a light overcoat in the evening
The cooking is all dono with charcoal, in
Dutch ovens built out of doors, or in oarthcn
pots similar to our large sized plant jars,
partly filled with Goals, upon which smaller
jars are placed. Chimncys would be super
fluffy, for nobody wants fire in the house
with the thermometer never below the seven
ties, and for the same reason he objects to
inclosinS himself III a conservatory by put
ting glass in his windows when all tho winds
of heaven are welcome. But, though he
should want it never so badly, fuel enough to
run one of our wasteful cooking machines
would be entirely out Of the question, since
coal--which is mostly imported from England
costs s25 per tom and wood $50 per cord.
Gasoline is unobtuinable, and petroleum sells
for sl.25 per gallon.
Various trades are carried on in Glatlal;i-
lara with great success, particularly silver
slnthing, blacksmithing, and carpcntering
Among the manufactures those of iron. steel
glass, and peculiar kind of pottery, arc
celebrated all over the republic Indeed, the
fame of "Guadalajara pottery" is world wide.
There are the queerest designs of carafes, odd
water jugs with two spouts or one, jars,
mugs, pitchers with long noses and stubby
handles, etc, made of baked clay, highly
glazed, with black, pale gray or dark red
ground, painted with impossible flowers and
figures which it would be no violation of tho
second commandment to worship, all quaint
enough to rank high in any collection of
ceramics. When new this ware imparts to
the water it contains strange flavor, which
is greatly relished by the Mexicans, but as
much disliked by most other people.
The gayest of serapes and tho finest of
rebosos are also manufactured hereabouts;
also paper and printed calico. The flligec
work of the Guadalajara jewelers. is SIMPLY
wonderful, and may he seen any day in every
stage of progress, because in all tropical
countries, as in tho far east, the majority of
workmen follow their vocations in the open
air. The gold and silvcrsmiths ply their
intricate trade outside their little Shops on
the street corners, anywhere, untlisturbed by
the dust and confusion around them They
make exquisite bits of orna,nentation of tic
gold known in commerce as "ctruscan," )"
meaning tho dark, rich, reddish yellow
variety. These works are much more popu-
lar in Europe than on this continent, and
across the Atlantic no collection OF jewels or
ornaments is considered complete without
a set Of Mexican filigree work At every
street corner are little stands, where genuine
treasures in the way of antique je:elry or
exquisite specimens OF fligrce work may he
bought for song. There are bracelets, neck-
laces, combs, earrings, cruclixes--in short,
every imaginable de"ice---son!e set with
the beautiful opals Of Quere,aro, or pearls
from the California gulf, Or topazes,
ametlysts, garnets, cats eyes from other
portions of Mexico.
Tho Guadalaj jaran wood carvcrs are also
famed for the beauty Of their workmanship.
In hundred little shops we find swar;hy
workmen patiently carvin. bits Of wood into
wonderful rosaries, every bead of which
shows miniature picture OF some srrip:ural
scene, heads which aroreally perfect portraits
for the tips OF canes n,l umbrellas, rings,
boxes cigarette cases, buttons, etc. Thccauc
carvers, who have over POO varieties of rich
pative wood to chose from, produce some
wonderful sticks, and many Of the most cx
quisite umbrella and paraso handles known
to commerce arc wrought by these unknown
and poorly paid workmcn.
Mexican gold and silver embroidery, thread
Iac" draw" work and intricate needle work
so command universal admiration. But the
richest and most curious Of all is the plumaje
or feather work, which is made only in
Mexico, and nowhere better than in Guadala-
jara-the secret of which is known only TO
certain families in which it has been pre-
served for centuries. III this city there are
elegant mansions decorated something as were
Montezumas palaces with feather work the
most elaborate, which is neither tapestry nor
applique, nor is it woven into or sewn upon
the foundation There are magnificent cur
tains, also, besides altar cloths, scalfs, hang
tAIi4 O.leI Illt.llt Ol SDi!!c
heavy material ornamented in an inieseri-
badly brilliant manner by leaves and foliage
of embroidery, in which birds stand out in
bold relief because the latter are made Of the
NATURAL plumage Of the birds themselves. BY
soue mysterious process known only to the
artists, these real feathers are wrought upon
the stuffed surface so naturally that the bird
from which the plumage came is perfectly
reproduced.
The same art is also exercised upon cards,
large and small, scarf pins, hair ornaments
etc, and the tiniest hun.n:iIg birds AMI the
tallest of the stork family are accurately rep
resented. The plumaje of the ancient Mex
leans has often been described b. early
writer's, and a few ragged specimens Of the
the royal feather cloaks worn BY MontezuEa
and his mobiles may still be seen tuiteriEg
uron the walls of MISUNDERSTANDING
(Mexico) Letter.
So;
Chinese Animal Worship.
at a recent meeting of the Pehin Oriental
society, Mr.. Owen read a paper on animal
worship among the Chinese He referred to
the yyOY.cbin 70 ~. e.. I