The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1887-09-24
NEW PARTISAN STYLES.
Wraps and White Wool Toilets for the
Warm Days of Early Fall.


Warm Days of Early Fall.
To Judge by the models which modis- |
ties are now engaged in preparing for
the autumn and winter, wrappings bid
fair to be as varied the coming season
as they were last year. They will be
worn long or short, according to the
demands of the occasions; long for the
carriage, and for general wear by
ladies no longer young; short for visits,
for walking, and for day wear by
young ladies. Long cloaks are made
of wooden, plain, or in very fine stripes,
or almost imperceptible checks. The
cloth is never heavy; the woolens are
supple and comparatively light. A
touch of fancy is displayed in long
mantles of tartan plaid in dark sub
dued soft colors. Their shape is simple,
the fronts falling straight, held only
at the neck by a clasp of metal or pas
sementerie, the back sometimes plated
at the waist under belt which stops
short under the arms; frequently
cape is added, sometimes hood; the
sleeves, which are rolled under, are
rather wide, and gathered at the arm
hole and wrist.
Short wraps, when intended to be
worn in the morning or destined for
young girls, are almost always made OF
plain cloth, or furred cloth, or coarse
wooden, thick and warm. They are
made in any one of the numberless
jacket shapes, with or without cape
of the same material, which does noe
reach farther than the elbow; the cape
may OF may not have hood; the hood
is always pointed. The jacket is inva-
riably adjusted, and is usually some-
what long, or is heightened by flat
basques set under the curved lower
| edges of the front and back. Some
times the basque is ornamented with
embroidery or passementerie, which
does not reappear in any other part OF
the Jacket; never is there any trim
ming on the lower edge. unless it is
the merest edging OF braid.
Some of the jackets assume military
character, with their decorations of
brandebourgs, olives and fourageres or
shoulder ornaments
| Jackets, whatever their shape, are
worn by all ladies in general with
morning toilets, and by young girls at
all hours of tae day. With the short
mantle wraps it is different; these are
not worn at all by young girls; ladies
of all ages wear them, IN all degrees OF
elegance, for visiting and for after
moons. Some of these are so extremely
rich as to be unsuitable for the street,
and are only worn in the carriage.
These are of Genoese velvet in rich,
dark shades, sometimes embroidered
with gold or. trimmed with passe-
menterie in which there is gold, almost
all are trimmed with lace. Their
shape is a combination of mantilla and
visite, with sleeves forming part of the
back, and short tab fronts, the tabs cut
square or pointed.
The polonaisc, never entirely aban-
doned, has been revived under the
title OF blouse, and is much worn, more
especially by young ladies and girls
To describe it generally, it is dress
shorter than an ordinary dress, worr
over a pctticoat of the same fabric, OF
which it is slightly-very slightly
draped. The blouse is worn with ;
belt, is shirred at the neck to define ;
round yoke, and shirrsd again toward
the waist The sleeves are quite full
half-long, and gathered at the armhole
A band of Bulgarian galloon, EN-
broidered in colored silks blended witt
| gold or silver, is around the armhol
/. and on the wristband, and similar gal
loon is used for the belt. Such cos
tunes are made of barege. yelling
English crepe and crepeline for youni
girls evening toilets.
White has been taken up with 5
much fcrvor this summer that it vii
: be most reluctantly abandoned in tn
: autumn, and dresses are now bein
!, planned in which polonaise or blous
: of white wool, thick but supple, iswor
:. over skirt of colored cloth in sue
= colors as hussar blue, hazel and q
mond-shell The skirt is braided wit
soutache, which is optionally but fir
Q quently mingled with furnished gols
a the same braiding is on the polonais
h 1t will be readily understood that sue
9 dresses are not intended to be worn Q
;; city streets, but in the carriage
= Paris. aud at country houses and waite
a ing-places at the end of the seaso
! Sometimes, to make gradual trans
!. ton between the colors and avoid
/. ts.,,.vl, ,..,,sfr,.f tl,a t.lf,fh <kiif Al