davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wilmingtonian., 1887-05-21
THE LIFE OF LINCOLN,
BY HIS CONFIDENTIAL SECRETARIES,
JOHN q. NICOLAY AND COLONEL
JOHN HAY.

This great work, begun, with the sanction
of President Lincoln, and continued under
the authority of his son, the Hon. Robert T.
Lincoln, is the only full and authoritative
cord of the life of Abraham Lincoln. Its
authors were friends of Lincoln before his
presidency they were most intimately asso
ciated with him as private secretaries
throughout his term OF Office, and to them
were transferred upon Lincoln's death all
his private papers. Here will be told the in
side history of the civil war and of President
LinGoln's administration, important details
of which have hitherto remained unrevealed,
that they might first appear in this authentic
history. BY reason of the publication OF
| this work
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

her when she had been venturesome
enough to do just that thing while the
tide was running out with unusual
force. The breaker had given her hard
tussle when she went through it, and
she had turned to swim in, but the out
ward current was too strong for her,
and, though doing her best, she was
being carried farther and farther from
land. Did she yell and swallow salt
water and strangle and sink? Not q bit
of it; she raised one hand out of the
water to show that she needed assistance,
Topped over on her back, spread out
her arms and lay still as mouse, with
her precious sun-burned nose barely
above the water, letting the tide have its
way with her. In one minute more q
couple of stalwart swimmers were at
her side with aplank, and she was hauled
in smiling, for which service she quietly
said she was much obliged.
The undiscovered men in New York
ON Sunday are the Central Park police
men. Their constant efforts to keep
people of the grass and prevent them
from picking flowers, to say nothing of
keeping nurse-maids and babies from
under horses heels on the drives and
the necessity of casting lordly eye out
In all directions, must be almost enough
to drive them distracted. The park Is in
full glory just now and the Towering
shrubs which line its paths and rambles
are too great q temptation for even its
quietest and most law-abiding frequent
ers. Half the people one sees there on
pleasant Sunday-and 1t Is always
crowded then-have gratifed the itching
of their fingers for just sprig or two of
flowers. The policemen wink at such
tiny thefts as these, but let anyone ven
ture beyond the line of the tiniest spray
and blue-coated giant is pretty sure to
step up, take away the flowers and with
severe frown inform the culprit that
nothing Of the sort is allowed in the
park. One cannot even pick up the
flowers that have thus been thrown into
the road without running the risk of
policeman's rebuke. And woe to
the sinner who disregards the first
warning. Last Sunday q stylishly
dressed woman, her gown a marvel of
elegance, her bonnet evidently from
Paris, her parasol and gloves the perfec-
ton of daintiness, walked along the
ramble with her cheeks aflame and her
eyes on the point of running over. Her
escort, duck of the latest and SWEETEST
cut, walked by her side, looking all about
him in a most helpless and appealing
way. The cause of their grief was the
fact that they were under the charge of
two policemen, who marched sturdily
behind them and kept close guard, and
the reason of their sad predicament was
that the lady had been picking flowers.
She had been greedy and carried an arm
load of them not little sprigs and sprays,
but limbs, half yard long, torn from
the Towering shrubs. She had been too
daring, and had found to her sorrow that
policemen have no respect for good
clothes and apparent responsibility.
Miss LoOKABoUT.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

answered the requirements of the age.
For while "the Werther uniform" which
brought in the round hat, held sway over
a part of the fashionable world then femi-
nine headgear received an extraordinarily
new development in the hat of 1890,
which protruded far above the forehead
like scoop.
When the stormy French revolution
came every new mode of dress was sup
posed to have political tendency, and
the ladies took up with the white bour-
geois cap and its tri-colored cockade and
ribbon. Charlotte Corday appeared on
the scaffold in cap of this description,
and established the fashion. But this
style was short-lived, for the convention
feared its political effect, and sweep
ing statute put an end, as far as it could,
to the Corday cap.
After that the "Capote hat" came in,
and held its ground with some changes,
a long time. This style reached this
country, and our grandmothers are said
to have looked well under the high
crowns and wide brims of the capote.
Some of our lady readers may have seen
the old bell-crowns, Navarinos and Leg
horns, that followed the capote after
lapse of some years. These styles were
all the rage some sixty years ago, and
more than one old garnet and wardrobe
contain specimens at this day.
The large bonnets of 1928 to 1885 ap-
pear ludicrous in print, but they had the
honor of leading the fashions then. In
front they extended full half yard over
the face, and behind, the face, however
lovely it might be, was concealed, as in
cavern of straw or silk. American
ladies wore these bonnets until they
were put aside for something new. Now
and then the treasure chest of some
venerable dame releases sample for a
masquerade, but they are very scarce.
Fashion seems to have forgotten them
entirely.
The modern hat, from which the hats
of the present day sprang, came into
vogue about 184S, and ended the capote
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

Of their heads, and surmounfed It with
q hat with narrow brin. the jealous
bellies of France followed suit but
added feather in such manner that it
hung over the face. Spain issued the de-
crees of fashion then, but long ago the
beauties of Madrid learned to look
toward Paris for 1.-THE newest thing out"
in millinery.
To this country came some of the odd
styles invented in Europe Before the
hats, called b0nnets then, of various de-
signs as quaint prints of the period
show. AS we were at the time the most
loyal subjects of his Britannia majesty
George Ill, we were expected to fol-
low the fashions as they came from the
mother country which received hem from
Paris. The hats worn at different times
by the bellies of Boston, Philadelphia,
New York and the Southern cities had
many names and knew many styles. The
fashions brought by ship to-day would
be superseded by some new oddity next
week. If the court danes added new
feather to their hats, or took off ribbon,
our loyal mothers did the same, although
here and there the independent misses
of the new world invented STYLES that
pleased them better than those waited to
their milliner from over sea.
My lady of one hundred years ago was
as anxious to be in the most advanced
new fashion as she is at present. There
were no cables to flash under seas graphic
descriptions of the latest novelties in
millinery; therefore, the belle had to
abide the pleasure of wind and tide.
Fashion plates then were poor affairs as
compared with the elegant ones we have
nowadays; but, poor as they were, they
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

regime. The new styles boosted of
liberal dimensions and a lavish dis
play of ribbons and feathers. Some
of the head coverings of that day
were simply immense, and two could
hardly pass on the sidewalk without
danger of colliding. Those hats
took possession of the whole civ
ilized world of fashion. They crept
into court and were the prevailing craze
in republican America. The shops of
our cities displayed the enormous things
in their windows, and helped to shorten
the big hats day by exciting ridicule.
While there is said to be nothing new
under the sum-" we are constantly seeing
something remarkably fascinating under
a jaunty hat.
T.C. HARBAueH.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

give the proposal new fllip. Al pres
emit It lies under somewhat Of cloud
The jubilee year has produced young
"plunger" on the English turf that is, Z
man who makes very heavy bets, and
not always with discretion. He backed
Enterprise for the two thousand, Ben
digo for the jubilee stakes, and the Baron
for the Derby. The two first-named
won, and the foolish young man then
decided to risk all on the Baron, the
Derby favorite, who was beaten. Fortu-
nately well-known sporting baronet
dissuaded him, with the result that
though his winnings were reduced BY
$4,000, he nevertheless pocketed over
100000. But these winnings will all
be dissipated some time Even the
Marquis of Hastings discovered that
ever so rich q "plunger" always domestic
grief in the long run. The owner of the
Derby winner, Merry Hampton, and his
circle of friends are said to have won more
than $500 900 over the Derby, but they
lost heavily over the Grand Prix, at which
Merry Hampton was beaten. 1t has been
noted this racing season what large
number of horsey danes of high quality
now attend the race courses. They wear
masher collars. white ties, diamond pins,
tailor-made dust coats and look as dap
per and as fascinating as the sporting
club ballet In Gus Harris Forty
Thieves" There will be great show
of these fast-looking ladies at the Ascot
meeting.
Yet another theatre for Londonl
Their name is becoming legion, and they
are nearly all-the new ones, that is--of
small size. These are more easily worked
and pay better than large building.
This last addition to the list is to be in
Shaftesbury avenue. It will be of fire.
proof bricks, and all the wood work
will be covered with fre-resisting paint
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

money, but Sir Philip is not rich man,
and no man is always discreet. When
the tide of complaint was rolling in
against Sir Philip last autumn the
Prince of Wales openly quarreled
with him and addressed him in
very strong Georgian language, such
as his forefathers were accustomed
to use. In this remark exclude his rev.
cred pater from the list, for Prince Albert
the Good was more of model than that
wonderful G. W., who never told a lie; the
prince not only never lied, but he never
swore. According to "a high authority"
the Prince of Wales has decided that
none of the gang" shall hold perma-
nent appointment in the Imperial Insti-
tute. This determination viii certainly
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
ABOUT WOMEN.

On June IA Harriet Beecher Stowe at
tanned the age Of seventy-six.
Mrs. Martha j. Lamb has been elected
fellow of the Clarendon Historical Society of
Edinburgh.
Mrs. George Ward Nichols, founder
and proprietor Of the lockwood Pottery at
Cincinnati, enjoys an income of 100000
Miss Maria Mitchell, the astronomer,
was the daughter Of small farmer in Nam
tucket, who was obliged to exc out his income
by teaching school at 50 per week. Marie was
constantly occupied with household duties
Mrs. Richard H. Dana, who was Miss
Edith Longfellow, and Mrs. Joseph G. Thorpe,
who was Miss Anna Allegro Longfellow. both
daughters of the poet, are building houses on
his former estate, which they will occupy
when finished
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, it is said, rests
herself after the work of the day by reading
her Greek books, which have given her the
greatest intellectual enjoyment of the later
years of her life. Last summer she studied
Plato in the original, and this year she is read
ing the plays of Sophocles.
Miss Elizabeth j. Gardner, the Ameri-
can artist, who has resided in Paris many
years, has received at the salon this year the
much-coveted medal Miss Gardner is a native
of Exeter, N. H., a graduate of Lasell Seminary.
Auburndale, and is the first american woman
artist ever thus honored in Paris.
Modjeska's aim, according to her own
frank confession, is to make money enough to
return to California to pass the remainder of
her days on her sunny ranch. The strain and
incident of her being on the road have troubled
her greatly during the present season, and
many of her performances have been given
when she was scarcely able to walk.
The Cambridge University examine
lions have resulted in a woman's brilliant
victory. Miss Ramsey, of Girton, daughter Of
Sir James Ramsey, of Banff, is the only per-
son, male or female, who has reached the dig
nifty of senior classic. The only person placed
in the first class in the medieval modern
languages examination is Miss Hervey, of
Newman. Two other ladies--Miss Pocock
and Miss Powell-have Feached the first class
in the second part of the examinations. These
ladies have beaten the men out of the field on
the latter's own ground.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

An old historian writing of that period
says: at was portentous time, for the
damsels carried huge towers on their
heads an ell high; others wore hats with
sharp points like steeples, from the tops
of which streamed long grapes fringed
with gold-like banners" Fancy a score
or two of horned hats at an opera of
to-dayt
Year in and year out the fair danes of
Europe chung to this strange piece of
millinery. 1t was hard to give it up,
but the time came for a change, and the
pearl-trimmed headdress of the Inflated
Mary of Scots set new style. Anne
Boleyn and the daughters of Sir Thomas
More wore caps, or hats, which are thus
described by German writer: at (the
headdress) consisted of little cap fast
ened very tight to the back of the head
and richly decorated with goldsmith's
work-pearls and jewels, set in costly
fashion, and elaborate embroidery. Be-
hind hung veil, the end of which some
times hung picturesquely down, or was
elegantly raised" and the effect Is said
to have been always pleasing.
At one time Italy set the fashions for
Europe, and then Spain held that honor,
but for many years past France has
issued the mandates of style, and we
modify or enlarge upon them after they
have reached us. When the Spanish
ladies gathered their hair upon the tops
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

The English ladies contented themselves
with one horn, as our illustration shows,
but the French added anothers to the
monstrosity, and carried the prevailing
craze into the ridiculous. 1t is said that
the doors of Vincennes castle had to be
raised to admit the Queen and her
horned hat. There were horns of all
lengths, variously trimmed with ribbons,
laces, bells and what not. The effect
must have been diverting, and fash
ion, glancing at her reflection in the mir
ror of the times, could not have but smiled.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
Misunderstood Els Duties.

~ understand that you are mesmerizer."
said an abnormally meek-looking man as he
entered the Office of physician.
81 have had considerable success in hyp-
motto experiments, was the reply.
II guess it's the same thing. Iwant you
to come down to the house tonight and try
it on my wife's mother. pll make it worth
your time, which l know is valuable"
The doctor was prompt to his appoint
ment. His visitor met him at the door and
inquired, anxiously, when you put 'em to
sleep how long is it likely to last :"
unless they are brought out of it. But don't
let that alarm you, can wake the old lady
up"
"Wake her upy' said his employer in dis
may. Wake her upr' Why, man, what
do you suppose you are here for?"-Aisr-
chant Tydyeler
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
Making Enemies Rapidly.

sJubilee reioicings'' Is an expression, after
all, of doubtful import. know of at least
one public official whose delightful duties
run in the direction of organizing jubilee
festivity, and who tells me that while his
life is daily, nightly and even hourly bur
den to him. he is positively confident that
by the end of the month he will have made
more active and implacable enemies than
fall to the lot of most men in lifetime
To.<Jo,, LVoaJd
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

were reset IN the brooches. hairiins, or brace
see the magnificent necklace increasing its
magnifcence. When she died the largest Of
the ston es were sold singly but the neck
lace without them was so valuable that the
Messrs. Tiffany bought it for 1000. Soon
afterward they broke it up, and for many
months it has ceased to exist .-Haspsss
Weekly
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

passion Tor Qua
monds, and wore
them in hair-pins,
brooches, brace
lets, and rings as
well, but her spe-
cial pei. was aneck-
lace, a riviere. Of
diamonds, which
cost her originally
perhaps $50, 900,
and to which she
had made various
additions until its
total value was
$500, 600. One day
she astonished q
clerk at Tiffany's
by buying a da-
mond for $48, 900
and ordering it to
be set in her
riviere as the CEN
tire stone. Dia-
monds that once
glistened in her
brooches, h a ir-
pins. or bracelets
were transferred
to this necklace,
an d diamonds
that no longer
pleased her in
The necklaces
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15


but there have been times when the gay
capital by the Seine was not the acknowl-
edged millinery mart of the world.
But let me see. was going to talk
about some by-gone headgear, and to my
subject must come. Headdresses are of
ancient origin. Wells formed the first kind
mentioned in the Bible, and we are told
how Rebekah donned hers when she first
saw the comedy Isaac. Ages ago the
Caramanian damsels Of Asia Minor
crowned their flowing locks with d.
yided ostrich egg, which required no
milliner's art. Their Egyptian sisters
preferred much richer headdress, and
Isis, in the wonderful bas-relief at DANA
hur, is shown in her elaborate cap, whose
tasteful drapery falls down behind the
ears.
just when ladies' hats came into vogue
is not definitely known. 1t was long be-
fore the Parisians opened their shops,
and when the fashion magazine was un-
known to the fairer part of creation.
Greek ladies affected the simple net, SO
often seen on ancient vases, and Roman
bellies and matrons are said to have been
the earliest pioneers in hats. The open
ing of the thirteenth century produced,
the famous "horn hat" whose styles
were as varied as the fertile brains of the
leaders of fashion could desire.
Like some of the hats worn to-day, it
was ''fearfully and wonderfully made"
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
A sPAsM,

When the eccentric Rider Haggard finally
joins the prolific Hugh Conway in fields
elysian, they will each, doubtless, pluck a
feather from their wings, and dipping them
in glowing sunsets lurid tint write jointly
upon the tablets of the sky divine treatise
on the subject of posthumous fecundity-
moreover = But at this point we respond
"the same to the editors bibulous invita-
ton, and the foregoing will be continued in
our necks.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

Gus De Smith, who, after the manner of
dudes, wears round piece of glass in his eye
being at ball at the governors mansion;
said sneeringly to Hostetter McGinnis:
'tJust look at Miss Esmeralda Longcoffin,
how many airs she puts on"
"Yes," responded Hostetter, who admires
Esmeralda, lyon see the mote in the eye of
your neighbor, but you don't see the big
piece of glass that is in your own eye
Tle1qs 3ifiis0S
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

Mr.. Ruddychops Ito imnecunious friend)-
see the butchers are going to have picnic
"Humph they want the earth"
"How's that?'
why, my butchers been having picnic
with me ever since last winter. - Chicago
Nears.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

Wife-Bridget is absolutely worthless; she
tries me from morning until night. I've a
great mind to let her go.
Hnsband-How much do we owe herr
Wife-Only two months wages.
Husband-Oh, well, we had better keep
her. arper's Bazdr
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
QUAINT HEADGEAR.
THE CAPRICEs OF FASHION IN An
GENT AND MODERN TIMES.

Rebekah's Vein and the Elaborate Head
dress Of an Egyptian woman Medieval
Types of the Big Hattie Quaint Head
Coverings OF the Revolutionary Epoch.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
wAYsIDE WISDOM.
pRAcrrcEp BY FEW.

IT'S said that virtues the politeness of the
soul,
A statement we admit with much regret;
Since we perceive how very few control
Themselves by such restraining etiquette.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
~
WITH Gusro, TOO.

There are some words over which pronun-
citation fingers lovingly. The barrister as
he calls for his mornings cup ofcoffee, dwells
with caressing emphasis oni its final syllable.
G. NJ. s.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

The fashion Journals are not paying tic
attention to basebell matters that they
should 'sMufis are frequently seen at ties
season. would be in the line of popul,ir ili-
terest at this .ime-L0aosI Citizen.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

No philosophy is more shallow or more
delusive than that which holds that men are
always governed by what they think to be
their interest. Christian htslligeReer.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
A Necklace worth $500. 900.

owned in this country was worn by the late
Mrs. Mary Jane Morgan. She had real
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
A DELUsIoN.

1t is stated that the shop CROP is failure.
Whoever says so never saw misguided and
reckless pullet, with humble bee in his crop,
hop.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

Researches Into the wiles Of the Sirens
The Latest Recourse Of the Would-be
Exclusives swimming Girls With Sum
burned Noses--sunday in Central Park.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
FROM THE DEPTHS.

Cries the lover sad-hearted and glum,
she's kicked by her dad from the place;
To what base uses. alas, do we come,
For the sire sadly used my base.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
tcopyrfghsed. 1851
. OW capricious fash

ion is! Long ago,
as now, the daugh-
tiers of the universe
caught eagerly at
the latest styles and
the shop windows
g x h | b lite d to
crowds of delighted
critics the newest
triumphs Of the
m Him r. 8 art.
Then, as to-day,
the latest fashions
started from Paris,
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
HoRrIcuLTuRALLY SPEAKING.

The New York World aeronauts went up
in search of easterly currents, but as west
erly breeze drove them from their course
they were compelled to accept western
beet.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15

FROM THE SAILORS STANDPOINT.
The Jersey skeeters which the frost
Kills at the turning of the year;
Seresuckers may be called, at least
They're surely suckers dead and sure.
The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-07-15
FROM THE "BoN TON"

The stylish husband has no need to ask
his extravagant wife what her gown is
worth, for if it is Worth it is sure to cost.