Sword and shield. (Clinton, Miss.) 1885-1888, 1887-09-03
FEMININE INGENUITY.
A Southern Lady Tells How She and Her
Sisters Dressed During the War.


writes Rosa W. Fry in the Atlanta COnsti-
tuition, almost every one who moved in
respectable circle in social life had de-
cent stock of individual clothing on hand.
But as the four long years of conflict
dragged themselves along, this stock be-
came sadly and perceptibly diminished.
Owing to the blockade. and to the faA that
the South was not a manufacturing sec
tion, store goods soon became difficult to
obtain. The merchants shelves soon be-
came thinned, and goods which had lain
upon them for years back found ready
sale Then it was that suffers came into
demand, and their small wares were large
ly sought alter by the female portion OF the
community.
Fortunately we had cotton and wool in
the raw, and factories for their manufact-
ure into wooden and cotton cloth sprang
up at every available point. Very much
of their produce, however, was necessarily
reserved for the uses of the army. Chill.
dren and young people who were growing
every day found it difficult to restrain
themselves within the compass Of half
worn and out-groWn garments. The wit
of woman, ever keenest in emergency,
was set to work to remedy these defcien-
cies, and the problem Of the art Of 'stretch.
ing" was carried TO its greatest height
The family to which l belonged was a
family of refugees, and the first consider
alton as winter drew on was how to keep
warm. Comforters made Of coarse calico
or old silk dresses and lined with raw
cotton were our first achievement Shoes
came next on the list Fortunately there
was tannery in the village, and by pay.
-, h~,n 61lU Chn0
in stout calf-skin. Later on sheep-shn
and alligator-skin were pressed into
service, AT home we wore cloth shoes or
crocheted slippers, fastened on to the
soles of discarded shoes. Fancy the
amount Of cotton cloth necessary to cover
the nakedness of household of eight
females, three males and several servants
At first we had resort to the linen sheet
ing of happier days! Later on we were
glad to obtain unbleached muslin no mat
ter how inferior the quality. AS the war
went on, prices advanced frightfully.
owing to the scarcity Of goods and the de-
probation of the currency.
Very early in the struggle the shadow
fell. A brother, the eldest born, lay with
the unsheeted dead at Manassas. My first
mourning was very simple-a dyed
W6TlHO, d DLdCh QOG0G4 OsbALSOi OAONA
ribbon round my white, child's hat, UOttd
tout Once in the>year my father went to
Richmond 250 miles distant, and brought
home such commodities as his slender
purse could purchase; a calico dress
apice, mayhap woolen shawl, little tea,
| sugar, coffee, rice, etc.
went through the war on four calico
! dresses and when close my eyes can see
those calicoes yet. They were all polka
dotted, and ranged from forty.fve cents
ward all the way up to ten dollars. As our
| exigencies increased two dresses were
merged iuto one. Prior to the war, twin
sister and myself had always dressed ex-
actly alike We now exchanged, and out
| of two half-worn dresses evolved one
whole garment Garbaldi waists were
very popular. They were made out OF silk,
| cloth. velvet or muslin, and worn with
any kind of skirt, bright or dark as might
| be. remember black velvet jacket, cut
| from mantle, which was worn by tve
| girls in turn, and did service on many try
| ing occasions. 1t figured on horseback, in
| the parlor, at state receptions-in short,
everywhere My mother sacrificed her
| biz ( brocaded silk to the wants of her
i young daughters. 1t fashioned Garibaldi
/ around.
Pretty suits were made out Of all wool,
i linsey and checked cotton OF domestic
weaving. But alas for the prospective
bride in war time To amass a trousseau
\ was matter of almost superhuman effort
! A friend who married in the winter Of 70!
was made happy by the gift OF heI
| mothers store of table and bed linen.
These were duly converted into under
wear, finished off with hand embroidery
/ A mauve velvet bonnet and brown silk,
shot with gold procured in Richmond
completed her outfit. Mourning was still
more difficult TO procure. A young widow
who lost her husband in '64 gave me
cluny silk and figured lawn in exchange
for my much worn black merino and gren
adine shawl.
Suffers were very popular. They always
carried stock OF small wares, such a:
pins, needles, tape, buttons and other
household articles. Sometimes cotton
gloves and coarse shoes. Thread was
boarded carefully. We bought it in large
hanks. manufactured from hemp. Pin
cushions were ripped up. and many inval
rable little prickers extractel from then
branny depths Almost every article o
wear was devised by woman's sklllfu
hands-cloth was fashioned into caps
gloves, jackets, shoes, etc ; the fleece o.
the sheep was in great demand; and ou
of the spun yarn socks, shirts, skirts ant
other articles too numerous to mention
were knit by woman's deft hand l re
member a lovely jacket, crotcheted o
dark, brown yarn, finished off with rec
worsted, which was as becoming to th'
slender form it encased as it was in real
itv snug and comfortable. Hoods, com
forters, smoking caps, sacques and shawls
init from yarn, contributed not little t.
our comfort during the winter season. Fo
summer wear we had straw hats OF do
mestic plating, dyed black, varnished anC
made gay with a bright ribbon twine'
around the crown.
We did not change our fashions during
the war, although on one occasion recaI
a lady who returned from the capital sport
ing a hoop-szirt about three feet in diam
eter.
1t was impossible to purchase wraps 0
cloaks. SO we were forced to remode
chose we had. There was a general resur
1ection Of antiquated garments and n
one knew how rich she was until the gar
ret had been thoroughly overhauled an
its hidd Ell. treasures brought to light.
An immense crowd is expected i
Tool-coy ,,riDu tho orpat kIrU0aSS