The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-12-03
HOLIDAY FASHIONS.
SPLENDoRS IN THE
CITY STREETS.

Trimming Characteristic
of Winter FaShions-Revival of the
Redingote - Double Dress Effects
The Punishment of the Bustle-De-
thronement of a Deformity - The
Braiding Machine-A Woman's In
vention - Historic Amalgamations-
Novelties in Evening Wear for De-
butantes-Flowers as Ornamental
ton for Costumes-Some Striking
Toilettes-Christmas Gifts-Pleasing
Designs in Jewelry.
New YORK, Dec 2.-The Flush of the
year." the glowing color, the ripe abund-
ance which has gone out of forest and field
has come to the town for the season and
settled down upon the throngs in the streets
in the shops which are running over with
beautiful Christmas wares and in CAV draw
ing rooms which are restored to their usual
supremacy by the presence of portieres and
bric-a-brac and the never-ending stream of
human life. There is no reason here-ap-
parently-for any of the ills to which flesh
is heir. Why should there be ills where
there are SO many possibilities of happiness?
tt makes one -intensely-yoush
strength, beauty; the power to possess the
good things, and impatient of age, weak
ness, disease, nadequacy-whatever fails
and helps Others to fail of attainment.
--- FASHIONABLE FURs.
Fashion is many-sided, but the winter
styles show a great deal of decorative work
upon smooth-faced cloth, as distinguished
from the homespuns, diagonals and tufted
cloths of previous seasons and an epidemic
of fur-specially for trimming and as sets
of muff and boa. All kinds Of fur are in
demand, but the fox furs are in the ascend
ant-black, white, blue silver and gray;
and dividing the honors with these are the
black lynx, which suits tn middle-aged and
respectable better than the lighter and more
dreSSy furs.
Gray fox is probably the most popular. as
it is effective and strong at a very mod
crate price; but blue or silver fox are
more expensive, more beautiful and better
adapted to velvet or the finer qualities of
cloth.
Beaver is less fashionable than for some
years past; though-like otter-it is always
more or less used for trimming, for muffs,
for collars and for capes But only the
long haired furs are suited to the boa; and
as the boa is the rage of the season, the
long-haired fox and lynx furs gain in conse-
quence.
The iichu collar, which is the novelty in
England, is not made by American furriers
and can only be obtained through importing
houses like Redfern's. Next year we shall
see it pOpularlZed.
The latest application of the boa is to tea
gowns and house dresses. A black, fox boa
encircles the throat and extends down the
front of a tea gown of white corded silk a
line of the same fur being inserted at the
side seams and between the plaits at the
back Of the demi train. 1t is part of the
beginning of the Russian fever which we
catching and which hos he
redingote and gives fur caps, coats and
jackets, as well as Russian aprons and
tablecloths.
The long cloaks and coats of mink and
seal are not now in demand, except for very
cold regions. In so temperate climate as
that of New York, where the thermometer
rarely goes below zero, and only occasionally
approaches that suggestive limit, long fur
garments are an lntolerable burden large
part of the season, and always render the
wearer liable to colds. They also crush as
well as conceal handsome dresses, and have
frequently been laid aside in disgust by
those who have paid for their acquisition.
The long cloak this year is clJth or striped
wool, trimmed with fur; the all fur gar
ments are a small, close-fitting jacket, or a
small v1site wrap, very short on the back,
but with longer, rounded ends and tails in
'front.' The jackets are made in seal or
Persian lamb, black or gray the visites in
seal only. The short, tightly curled hair of
the Persian lamb adaptS it to jackets, caps
and trimmings for girls, and also for chill
dren. 1t is very youthful looking, specially
in white and gray; in black it is better
suited to general wear.
White lambs wool forms very coquettish
finish to soft gray mot steel gray suits, and
nothing can be imagined more dainty than
costume of gray Vienna cloth, with vest
band for skirt and cloth turban of white
lambs wool, the muf made to match, but
tied with bow of wide, gray grosgrain rib
bon, with pretty picot edge.
Fur lined circulars are greatly reduced in
price, though still in demand for evening
wraps by ladies who need the protection of
such garment. They are not now, how
ever, in any sense fashionable" Fashion
able women do not wear them; they have
found substitute in the long cloak with
sleeves and fitted back But if one is not
obliged to use ones hands and arms, the cir
cular is very simple, convenient and COM
/ Portable
Before leaving the subject of furs, it
ought to be remarked that the muff, though
almost universally trimmed, is not deco |
rated by the furriers. On the contrary, the |
old-fashioned cords and tassels, even the |
edge of silk or satin lining, have disap-
peared. A facing of fur upon the ends is |
now carried far into the interior, SO that no
lining is visible; and it is the owners who |
add the band and bow of rich ribbon, tied
VuO tclIIS, Uuo S0dQe Oh
the fur, either in MORE, satin or gros-
grain.
DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF WINTER cos
TUNES.
The revival Of the redingote is one of the |
most marked pecuharites of the winter |
styles. 1t simply emphasizes the double |
dress effect which has been observed more |
or less in gowns, cloaks and costumes for |
several years. 1t is a rather severe style, |
but eminently suited to winter fabrics and |
winter wear, to cloth and other woolens |
with fur as finish. 1t is also in accord with |
the general direction which other dress de- |
signs take; with the long lines, the straight |
or diagonal effects. the absence of punched |
up draperies and the reduction of the tour
nure.
., Too much emphasis cannot be placed on
this last fact, for it is the interest of trade
TO keep up illusions in regard to certain
kinds of bustles and dress distenders which
occupy the market; and there are those who
lend themselves TO deception through not
knowing, or for more selfish reasons.
But in this nineteenth century it is mat
Ter OF reproach to all women, that some
will continue TO make distortions and carl