The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-10-01


over drapery, should the design admit it,
The theory upon which n check or plaid
dress is trimmed with velvet, is, that the
plain, dark or neutral wool, having no char
acter of its own is overpowered if put i'll
small quantity with the more expensive
plaid; while the velvet holds its own in any
quantity with a wooden material of any
kind, by its superior character and richness;
and is therefore more effective in small
quantities than plain wool would be; and
satisfies the sense of proportion, possibly
without the individual knowing the reason
why.
PoPLINS REVIVED.
Poplins have been revived abroad, and
many handsome materials have been inn
ported which are, like poplins, mixtures of
silk and wool But it is doubtful how far
they take" with us. The Bengolines have
had no success At 81 30 or 81 per yard
they are dearer than minor silks, which
have been so much improved of late years;
while for their price, or very little more,
good, all silk faille or satin franchise can be
bought The most attractive of the new
mixed fabrics are in rich striped or other
patterns, in one color. The artistic effect
of the dull, twilled outlining of wool or still
finer veining of foliage, Greek or Eastern
design, upon soft, satin ground without
gloss, shows 70 what perfection the ordinary
manufacturer of materials has been
brought. 1t must be said also, that
there is no ground for the old
prejudice against mixed materials on &C
count of shrinkage of one of these from the
other Modern skill has made the compati-
bility in these cases perfect, so that they can
he used as parts of costumes, as walking
skirts, or for small or large wraps with
safety. Nothing could be better adapted to
combination with velvet or plush than these
beautiful materials.
In still richer and more costly stuffs the
short effects have been brought out in
way to take the world of fashion by storm.
But brilliant as they are-and for this very
reason-their reign is sure to be short In
silk they make beautiful Innings. but they
are not becoming to the face, excepting in
very subtle or delicate colorings and ma
nipulated with the utmost skill. The opal
inc and seashell tints, for example, are ex-
quisite; but they must be companioned with
delicate, white lace in seashell or maiden
hair fern patterns; or with white, Canton
crepe embroidered in the lovely faint colors
and delicate little figures, which the shading
of the silk suggests.
Dark, shot velvet is also capable of fine
treatment. Take the mordore brown for
instance, with golden lights which only
show in the light, like ancient Venetian
glass. Put with this dull, gold-colored
satin, striped with an open cord and bril-
liant beaded passementerie in modern brown,
or with an embroidery in gold thread, brown
silk and chenille, bodice trimming to match :;
and you will have rich reception dress,
the bonnet and small wrap for which can be
carried out exactly to match the dress part
of the costume. These shot velvets will be
available in many ways and present mag
nifcent possibilities; but they will not, it is
to be hoped, be copied in the common, linen
backed and short, thin piled fabric, for the
attempt could not possibly be successful
from any point of view. In small quantities
they are extremely good for decorative pur-
mantles and even long cloaks, which may
be lined with plush or quilted satin of the
same color, old gold, olive, red or heliotrope,
of which the undertone is composed.
A short costume, one of a recently inn
ported trousseau, is made entirely of NOR
dore brown velvet, shot with dull gold and
trimmed with gold and brown cords, over
panel and inserted folds of gold-colored
satin, Cords play an important part in the
trimmings of the season. Sets are exhibited
which festoon the side of the skirt and front
of the bodice, the ends fastened by a series
of passementerie buttons on one side and
caught up in a group on the shoulder on the
other that is to the left.
ARTISTIC IDEAS
and the play of fancy in dress find principal
expression in the preparation for elegant in
door, dinner and evening gowns. There is
not much opportunity for diversified design
in heavy fabrics, which must be worn with
coats, cloaks or jackets i'll our cold climate.
Besides, there's a reaction in England against
big sleeves and esthetic taste, which have
reigned in the studios, displayed their cd
ditieS in the GrOSvenor Gallery, and fur
nished subjects for imitation or ridicule to
the rest of the world for some years past;
and so the gathers and the Liberty draperies
have given place to the several outlines
and to the strictest style of tailor-made COS
Tunes
But the craze which deserted England
fed to France and found welcome there
Thus it happens that while our walking
dresses, which we copy from English and
German styles, are conventional to the last
degree, our morning dresses from Paris
are tea-gowns and our dinner and evening
dresses half copies of pictures in the London
National Gallery and half of Ellen Terry's
Beatrice or Portia.
The rich stuffs, the damasks and silver
and gold brocades, the velvet with the glow
Of freight or sunlight i'll its folds and the
stately MORE, lend themselves to pic
turesque design; and enable women of taste
and means to cultivate styles adapted to
before had such chances, for never before
could it adapt its clothing to its own type
and characteristics. Splendor grows with
every recurring season, notwithstanding
corners and 'set-backs.n Small real
diamonds are used now to stud the handles
of fans and parasols and to form figures,
such as flies, minute horseshoes, excrescents
and the like on such as are made OF real
lace A hundred dollars used to be consld-
cred high price for a fan, now we have
them in the shops at $500 and $500 and this
does not represent the value of some pos
sessed by wealthy ladies, for whom they
have been made to order
French novelties in bonnets have also
figured in England for some time past.
They consist Of full, oval crown and pulled
fronts thrown up little from the centre.
They nre more generally becoming than the
little capote, more protective and have
taken on the grace which the Partisan touch
imparts to whatever it undertakes to manip-
ulate TIE fashion of making the crown
different from the brim still obtains, and
many are Of cloth, embroidered, beaded or
trimmed to match suits; the full front,
which is rather Deep and to which a sort of
quilted effect is impaired, being of velvet
1t is the upward kink which saves the
brim from suggesting an ancient cap, and
the genius of the milliner is displayed in
avoiding the quilted ruftle on the one hand
and the too expressive point-like turned
up nose-which has been feature of the
millinery of the past three or four years
Velvet ribbon strings-it may be re-
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