The Indianapolis journal., 1887-12-11

now varying them to suit her fancy or accord
ing to her CLOTH The Buckingham folds
from the waist, though far from new, are still
fashionable. Full skirts wholly undraped are
shirred in the back and applied to the edge OF
pointed bodice, and the jaboted drapinRs, IN
stead of being arranged as formerly in narrow
coouilles are ad iusted in larger ard more grace
full curves in soft, easy undulatiens down one
or both sides from belt to hem In fine con-
trast to the gay and striking costumes worn in
demi-dress this season are lady-like and really
elegant costumes OF silky-surfaced Henrietta
cloth or exquisitely fine India cashmere in
neutral shades OF dove. silverbeige, etc, IN the
form of long Russian polonaises draped over
moire or velvet skirts plain striped, 9TH
erwise made into pretty gowns made wholly of
the fine wool fabric with plain skirts braided
half their length in heavy soutache in long
detached designs; IN other cases garnitured
with silk gimps in applique enriched
by cut steel aud silver passe
menteries, with special ornaments for the
grdle, collar and sleeves to correspond
handsome trained robe of shot satin displayed
at fashionable importing g-house on Broadway,
is enriched with trimmings of Alaska sable; and
a charming tea-gown of tea-rose India cashmers
is simply oordered down the 'front.' around the
bottom, and at the throat and wrists with very
narrow bands of long-hared, dark-brown fur;
while matinee of golden terra Gotta IS draped
with pale coffee-colored lace, headed by bands of
golden-brown marabouL Extremely graceful
80 clock tea-gowns are shown, cut in clnging
princesse fashion. made of Roman red, pale rosy
lilac, or bebe blue satin brocade of smallfgured
design. at the back the drspery is closely
shirred to the back forms, which are shaped 10
diminish to sharp point below the waist line
A silk cord girdle fastens above this shirrpg
ard is carried around the figure to the left side
in 'front.' and losely knotted. Chatelaines of
coin silver are also noted upon tea-gowns made
in this style, the material of gray satin brocade
shot with rose-color. The sleeves to these gowns
half open and are lined with pale rose-coi-
ored satin.
The '.Dagmar" and the vladimir" two
new styles in long cleaks in pelisse shape much
resembling the ''Huguenot" cloak brought out
this autumn. These wraps simple vet dis
tingue in appearance. Trimmed with fur and
passementerie fourrageres, they compose very
comfortable and elegant winter wraps AL
though sealskin is chiefly employed for long,
handsome wraps by people who can afford
iberable outlay of money. it is questionable
in point of real grace unless very lightly lined,
made order and closely fitted. a strong rival
TO these expensive wraps is the Russian
long coat or surtout, made of German broad
cloth. This material is SO warm and thick that
it requires no lining and can therefore be fitted
ornaments set down each side of some of the
latest models, the fronts opening over draped
plastron of velvet. camePs hair, moire. or faille
franchise. Grecian lynx and black long haired
fur are other garntures noted on long coats OF
dark blue and japanese red broadcloth fastened
together half way down by black silk cords and
pendeloques
Turbans, beef-eater hats, braid trimmed
toques of felt and new sailor hats, short at the
sons, afford a change from the Boulanger and
other large round hats caught up the side
Novel turbans m ade of green and gold, red
and black, or other changeable velvetS made
with soft crowns, the folds carried high on the
front of the hat, in Normandy style.