The Sedalia weekly bazoo. [volume] (Sedalia, Mo.) 187?-1904, 1887-02-08

quantities, initiating China grapes, and 9
| new surah called surah Antoinette, with
very heavy diagonal lines, is for lighter
mourning. Plaid and striped black and
white surahs, India silks Of black ground:
with wide or narrow white stripes and
white grounds with all-over arabesque and
| lozenge patterns, are also shown for the
spring and summer. White, black and
gray ginghans and satteens follow the
striped, plaid and figured designs noted
last week for colored cottons.
Entire dresses of English Grape are
made for widows. Tie short dress to b.
worn under long cloak has round shirt
with some slight drapery at the top and 8
plain basque. House dresses Of Grape have
demi-lrained skirt, full and straight in
the back, with deep drspery in front cut
out in points or scallops that are lined
with silk, and side panels similarly seal
loped. The basque may be plain over the
silk lining or lai 4 in full on the shoulders
in front, with the pleates tapering to the
waist, on palmer basque there is vest
made quite narrow, with points or scallops
lapped on its edges Black lisse is pleated
in the neck and sleeves.
are the real mourning silks, and there are
heavy twilled silks with dead black sur
face that are used for dinner dresses for
ladies in very deep mourning. The trim
mingssfor such dresses are coid gimps,
with or without dull JET beads, and a
a pretty fchu of English Grape which
drapes the bust is shirred near the rts,
and crossed below with bands of feather
edged gros grain ribbon. Cashmere-Sici-
lienne are soft repped silks OF slight lus-
ture, worn when the dull silks are left for
more dressy toilettes black net and tulle
are used, both plain and beaded, with dull
or with brilliant jet.
The waist of plain net is cut square in
the neck, and has a ticau and elbow
sleeves made of the beaded tulle; SIM
liar basque has plain net sleeves with V
OF beaded tuIle at the top, and puff OF
The beaded tulle drawn by ribbons al the
elbows. Folds of diaphanous French
Grape. of Grape lisse, and bands of grena-
dine Or gauze ribbon trim other black net
dresses. China Grape without lustre is
made up In handsome dinner dresses,
trimmed with passementerie, and pendants
of dull jet, and if lace is admissible the
point d'esprit is used with fine dots and
feather edges like those on ribbons, or else
with scaIlOps; entire dresses are made OF
the piece lace Of these fine dots, which is
preferred by many to the beaded nets.
For light mourning, put on for fls-
tant relatives, all-black tailor suits of che
viot or of Henrietta cloth without Grape
are worn in the street, while for the house
Srh
parts OF the dress, such as a soft vest OF
diagonal folds, collar and wristbands
wrought with black feather stitching, and
panels OF inlaid pieces of white wool in the
skirt; or il may be the entire lower skirt
is OF white serge, or of v hite cloth pinked
or nOtched on the edges. Black braiding
on white cloth vests and panels is not new,
but is still used. Pointed gimp above a
band Of Astrakhan or of the long-waved
Russian lamb skin is fashionable trim
ming for cheviot dresses White chevioi
dresses are worn In the house, and there is
also return to pale gray, silver and mauve
dresses for light mourning.
For the neck the tenlancy is to return
to the greater use of black lisse and Grape
trimmings, just as colored ruches and
ribbons are used in preference TO white by
those wearing colors. There is, however
no rule for such matters, as some widows
wear black Grape folds altogether. while
others from the first use the Fedora puffs
of white crape-a finish in favor also with
those who wear colors. In many cases
the dress is made NTH a Grape collar, and
the wearer adds only band of narrow
ribbon tied in a bow in front or on the
left side, as is the most becoming, and this
ribbon may be black or white at pleasure
There also excellent black ruches made OF
three fine pleatings, or else fittings OF
grenadine ribbon with corded or feathered
edges.
There is nothing new to te in millin-
cry for mourning. The first and best
bonnet is of dol. bled English Grape covered
bk Grape veil, which may extend almost
10 the feet in front and half that lenght in
the back but there is wholesome tend
ency TO wearing shorter wells by all except
widows and for drsping those a the back
of the bonnet. The nuns yelling veil
is used in rainy weather, when a Grape
veil would be injured, and bonnets are
made OF the nuns yelling, and are liked
for their ghtness. Grape bonnets worn
without a veil have high bow in front,
made of loops of the Grape, with perhaps
some gros grain ribbon loops among them.
This ribbon is used almost altogether for
strings, though occasionally Grape is ar
ranged in an extremely narrow bow
scarcely an inch wide, consisting OF two
pointed ends strapped together-attachei
to a still moreover fold of Grape, for
strings.
Society EISeuhara