National Republican., 1887-10-28
wine Disctrssion.

Treating the subject OF champagne as
served at fashionable tables In England, q
writer states: "That anybody who has ac-
cess to the very best houses in London
must know that champagne only goes round
once, and generally champagne which has
been for some time opened, perhaps cham
payne which has been decanted, though this
fad is not SO much in'vogue now as It was
few years since" "The man who takes
champagne twice at private table In the
houses that rule. the social regime Is to-day
very much In the category Of man who
takes soup twice. In at least three of the
best houses champagne is not served un.
less asked for. Champagne cup, made Of
champagne and soda water without flavor
ing, ts served from glass jug, and small
tumblers, very often OF crackle glass and
OF various delicate hues, have supplauted
the taxa shaped glasses"
The fashion is wise one, and agres with
the rule OF temperate consumption. A din
ner where glass Of good sauterne, chab!is,
or hook accompanied tho fish or oysters,
and another Of good burgundy or claret,
and perhaps pony glass of sherry or port,
raised the sociabillty to fesst, may safely
be topped off with glass of champagne In
the way now made the rule, and those that
partake Of 1t will not be blamed for excess
nor feel the worse for the slight glow that
their blood.
Diluting champagne with soda water and
converting 1t Into champagne cup seema
reasonable, inasmuch as the sweetness of
the wine Is lessened, and the beverage is
then nearly dry champagne; 1t Is, alcohol.
cally, lighter, thus rendered a far more pleas.
ant to the taste and still exhllarating. On
the other hand, the grand exotic, sparkling
wines lose to degree those properties OF
aYpallanca and aYoaptinnaI nuaiitiao that
render them so expensive. and as exceptions
raise them above the grades Of quality,
both from abroad and OF American produc.
ton, which, though made OF high class
grapes and fermented In the bottle, are less
costly. Thus for champagne cups It
might be said that the very costly highest
brands OF imported champagnes would In
a sense be sacrificed. Any OF the truly
good American champagues, which are made
In the proper way OF preserving their nat.
ural earbonic acid gas, and not the cheap
sparkling wines which are dosed with an
eddition OF gas, would therefore
be acceptable and proper for champagne
cups. In the very best society snobbery is
unknown. The very best society begin
patronizing the home product now, recog.
Dizing that American vltlculture can pre-
sent good table wines which surprise con.
noisseurs In grape growing countries across
the ocean. High grade wines, the eXcep.
tions of which no considerable quantities
arrive from those countries, however co.
pions the label industry be patronized
by crooked bottlers, we do not vet
match In America. But sound, wholesome
wines, and many one of good mlddlIng
grade that tower above falsely labeled
liquids, we claim to produce, and each year
In greater perfection. Our growers are
earnestly occupied to propagate the best
varieties OF wines, and have succeeded ia
even excelling the results from the originals
In more than one plant. 1t seems lack of
patriotic feeling not to investigate and test
what American viticulture now is capable
OF showing.
One word yet about sparkling wines. No
one who practically knows the merits of
the highest grade OF champagnes OF quite
number OF Rheims and Epernay brands,
Will doubt the genuineness OF what is sup
piled by importing firms. 1t is false as.
sertion that such brands can be forged or
that In commerce they are affixed 10 what
is not genuine. But then their price Is
nearly donble that of the hest grade OF
American sparkling wines. To the average
purse that difference is not in harmony
with the relative appreciation OF the merits
OF the latter.
f, PoHNDoRFr.
To-Kalon office; from Nov. /, 0l4 Four
teenth street northwest.