The Portland daily press., 1887-10-08
WoMAN's DRESS.
What She will Wear-wooI Fabrics
and Silks
[New York SUNDAY tribune

ldCts DuL INC tOWt tItStNtutt OF LUt Ih5ulOudDle
world will be that Of the summer with only
the change which heavier fabrics and hues
always give. The better element Of Ameri-
can women are conservative In matters Of
| dress, despite our national reputation for
| barbaric show and glitter-a reputation ere
ated by few vulgar persons who have de-
| lighted to make themselves conspicuous in
| dress and manners, both here aud abroad.
| Worth is continually sending TO this market
/ dresses which are so bizarre In style that he
| would not dare offer them to Partisan Gus
| toners and which find buyers here only
among women OF unrefned taste.
WOOL FABRICS AND SILKS.
The new fabrics for fall wear are soft cash
meres, cloths and camel s-hair goods. There
| are no new goods, but some old materials are
| revived. Drap d'ete, which was popular for
| wraps dozen years ago, is seen again in
| dresses combined with plush and other heavy
| goods. While English tailOrs have been re-
| ducing the weight Of their dresses by every
means possible, the French dressmakers and
cloakmakers have paid little regard 10 this
matter and some of the new wraps Of heavy
material are so burdensOme that only a
/ strong woman can wear them. The materi-
| ais for street wear are heavier In texture
/ than those Of last fall Plush matalasse and
| other goods are used for petticOats and Access
| sOrv trimmings Of costumes with draperies
and waist of plain woods. A few costumes
/ are shown with skirts Of plush and long,
straight DireetOire coats of the matalasse In
| Persian pattern with touches Of Oriental
| color Frightening the dark figure Of the fab
| ric. Such severe dresses will be worn by
few who are unable to adopt the bouffant
paniered POmpadOur styles.
| While heavy wool goods are the rule for
| street, importers predict that silks and laceS
| will be chosen for dressY occasions In place
Of velvet and plush. There are still heavy
| goods imported and there are new heavy fab
| RIGS like satin brocatelle woven In tapestry
| effect and mOires with velvet figures and
| stripes. These materials. however, are i'm
ported only for tabliers or petticOats and the
| paniered draperles and square cut bodice,
pointed back and front and short on the hips,
will be made of plain satin or silk, trimmed
with jabOts and frills Of soft creamy laee-a
| wOndrOus effective setting to fair blonde
| beauty. There are great many watered silks
and .feTissdRt ehangeable silks and satins
| among the new goods. Peau de cygne Is
new silk which resembles in texture and
color the skin Of the young plucked swan.
Peau de nymphe and Peau de sole are also
named on the Importers list OF new silks.
These materials have surface like Grape,
but high satiny lustre, and will be very
effective used with lace accessories. The
beautiful silks for evening wear are the
mones and satins in Dubarry rose, old blue,
shadowy grays and other tints Of Sevres
| pOreelains, which are strewn with garlands
| or bouquets of flowers In natural cOlors.
| These silks will be made up into bouffant
/ costumes with pettcoats and hip draperies
| like those seen ON Watteau's shepherdesses
Those delightful women with whom"
/ says About, man would be content 10 be
| forever eating Ice cream"
| The most noteworthy change in the gen
| eral makeup Of costumes Is the use Of more
| draperies at the sides, tendency 10 fuller
/ skirts and toward extremely high draperies
at the back. Waists remain short on the
| hips, but are sometimes heightened into
| square tabs In trout and long pOstillion at
the back. Full vests Of various kinds are
| very popular and sleeves are rather fuller
| than they have been. square pyramid Of
| trimming Is set In the TOP Of the sleeve In
/ many OF the new French costumes
WRAPS AND COATS.
| The most dressy wraps for winter will be
long cloaks of plush and fine cloths embroid-
cred and braided in elaborate patterns.
| These wraps are trimmed with fur and bands
| of cocks plumes and ostrich feathers. There
are some black plush wraps with trimming
/ in the fashionable Opalescent effect. given by
palm leaves Of India camels hair applequed
on the garment All shades Of plush win be
/ used for these luxurious eloaks. Dark bril-
| liant ruby plush, trimmed with black feather
bands and deliberately braided with black
| braids, are used for carriage wraps, while
| plush in the pale pronounced tint Of rose
porcelain is used for evening and opera
wraps, and Is trimmed with the curly white
fleece Of the Angora goat
The short coat introduced by Redfern last
summer, which fits closely at the back and
flows loose In front, will be popular choice
this fall for street wear, The tan and drab
shades Of last spring are seen. Black Is the
l general choice. though there are some coats
in dark brown, blue and other cloth cOlors.
The hussar jacket, fitting closely TO the fig
ure and braided in military fashion In
straight lines across the front with oliretS, Is
| popular shape for young ladies'. A drum
mun braided to match the coat will be added
In the winter, and If the wearer fancies, a
| high, hussar-like cap braided In the same
/ il A ha g.
autumn are quite short, only a few nantes
i are sold. The seams of fall coats may be
Tapped or strapped, that Is they may be COW
cred with a strip Of braid or cloth stitched
down on either side, or they may be finished
/ on the inside Wide bands Of Astrachan,
| bands OF plush and Of fur are used for trim
/ ming. There are great many short jackets
deliberately braided. Later in the season
English sailors will make short, elose-ftting
coats Of seal skin and Astrachan for young
| ladies.
The finest waterproof cloaks in market
| are Of English make and cost from $3.50 to
| $40 each. Silk water-prOOfs are exquisitely
feather-like in weight and handsome and are
$40.
MILLINERY.
Velvet, which has been generally used for
street and dress occasions, is now only used
for dress bonnet Felt hats and bonnets
and turbans Of cloth made by the millIner or
tailor of the material Of the street gown win
be generally worn on ordinary occasions.
| Bonnets are considerably lower than last
winter, but the trimming continues TO be-
massed toward the top and aigrettes are used
to heighten this effect. Small close fitting
poke shapes are generally chosen for dressy
bonnets. The crowns OF round hats are low
and square and the trimmings are often set
directly at the back, or at the side, though
many are still trimmed In front with clusters
and wings. Turbans of cloth TO match the
dress are simply made Of folds pointed on
ODD and hat Il has, H..fa l.1 "A.
cluster Of velvet loops knotted in close
bunch.
Some Of the most beautiful bonnets Of
black velvet are ornamented with an APP
plique Of white lace and trimmed with sim
Pile cluster Of MORE ribbon and long comb
like ornament Of brilliant Rhine stones down
the centre Of the crown. The bonnet Is fin
ished by strings Of MORE in No. IL width
Many of the straight rims Of felt hats are Of
velvet, while others are simply bound with
ribbon. These, like all hats and bOnnets TO
| be worn with street costumes, are trimmed
this season to match the dress. They are
often finished with braided bands, and a
cluster OF ribbon set among bunch Of cocks
plumes. The tailor hat or bonnet Il the
model for street wear, though the work Is
oftener done by the milliner than the tailor
There are many new colors In millinery.
Old tapestry blue and green's and moss
green's are all used and are generally known
| as GObelin blues and green's. TerracOtta
and mahogany shades have taken a new
lease OF existence. a great many shades OF
yellow are used to brighten up dark colOrs.
Dark fame-cOlor-a color similar TO the tint
OF the Brazilian t0paz-is very much used In
conjunction with colder colors Irridescent
effects and ehangeable effects are often seen
in dress bonnets. There are few tips used
but notified plumes in two cOlOrs are extern
sively imported. Some charming little bon
nets for church or reception are Of velvet
woven in several eolors, giving to the fabric
, the changeable effect Of the opal tiny
bonnet with soft pleated crown Of opal
tinted velvet was made with pleated brlm In
poke shape and trimmed with a stylish bow
of ribbon and a curved aigrette in Opalescent
| colOrs. Another bonnet Of black velvet was
I | made with a soft crown finished with a
shirred front Of mahogany c0l0red ribbon,
and trimmed with high cluster Of ribbon
and an owls head in mahogany shades All
t stiffness of outline is avoided in bonnets Of
; velvet; they are generally made with soft
| crowns and pleated brims. Charming bon
r nets for young ladies are in poke shape not
unlike the fish-wife poke of few years ago
: A bonnet Of this shape was Of brown velvet
| The high, soft crown was caught down al
the side with an embroidery Of golden wheat
ears and the bonnet was simply trimmed
} with old-fashioned pink mOss-rOses, the
large buds with their messy stems beinf
J caught down among the folds Of the bOnne
r in careless irregular clusters.