Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-01-29

HieH HkAD-GEAR TO THE AXE-SOCIAL SEGREGATION
THE PROBLEM OF THE MALE KscoKr-rHE PARIS
COSTUME AND THE ENGLISH WALKING DRESS
PRESCRIPTIONS OF SPRING.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
NEW YORK. Jan. %, 1887.
Newspapers may say what they please, but
FASHION does not have II all its own way nova
days, by a great deal The convenience Of others
must be considered, or there is protest and nat re-
oeiiion- What chance did any one stand at the
theaters on elsewhere In the days OF the towering
head dresses7 so high were they that the roofs Of
the Sedan chairs had to be taken of to allow the
structure TO come through. Now, there is almost
a social revolution because the hats and bonnets
are three inches higher than ordinary. The pen
dulum always swings TO the other side, and a re-
dictionary movement has set In which looks to the
removal OF all tmpedlments in the way OF bonnetS
and hats at theaters and In public assemblies.
Men remove their hats, it is said; why should not
women In public gathering, where every one
has paid equally, every one has equal rights, and
II men are TO be deprived OF those rights, out OF
some imaginary need OF concession 10 social
idea, they Will cease to invite women to the
lie places that women frequent; they will sepa-
rate themselves still more from the social lie OF
This is what the GROWERS say and they are
quite capable OF carrying tt out In fact they act
on this principle now. MatineeS, Whlcn occur
once a week, are crowded with women, no men
visible. Evening performances every day in the
week show an average OF i've men 10 one woman,
o. the evening party prtncipaIiy because it was
impossible for ladies to ind male escorts
The Lyceum theater has made an heroic attempt
tn induce ladies' not only TO take of their bonnetS
in the Jheater, but add brighter touches to their
toilets 1t has provided a cloak room and
woman attendant who furnishes checks and as
sistance when necessary. Great theater parties
have become a feature. the ladies without bon
nets and in more elegant costumes than has been
the rule OF late years Twenty-Five or thirty
years ago theater dress presented much lighter
and more varied appearance. White or light
bOnnetS, made or tuie and flowers were de yi1eur.
The dresses were demi-trained, and tulle ScarfS
and flowers formed the neck dressing for young
married a1ri unmarried ladies, while the older
onesexhibited rich lace capes and berthes fchus.
The dress was much less convenient than tt'is to-
day, except for ladies' who stepped from the din
cloak over their shoulders The adoption OF the
short street dre3s has had the general effect OF
lowering the standard oil dress at home and upon
semi-pubic occaaionS-the temptation TO save
trouble by making no change from the dark cloth
street or shopping costume being in nine cases out
OF ten too strong to BE- resisted. Naturally men
follow the lead O1 women, and gladly escape the
thraldOm OF dress coat and gloves whenever and
under what preteXt they can. The absence CT the
bonnet inevitably leads TO a different style Of
dresss Street costume Is not complete without hat
or bonnet. II has insensibly acquired a certain
distinct and sober character which belongs to
ftSei and which is inconsistent with display.
THE PARIS COSTUME.
But the dark, compact cloth suit is English in
its origin and has never obtained much OF a vogue
fdTiS WntIe almost except
among those who know nothing and care less
about fashion There the short dress OF wool,
when IL Is not the straight, severe black OF the
wOrk-woman or the hoISekeeper is fantastic
'creatioD" OF the modesto made for the stroll in
the "Rots, the call at the cafe or casino and the
beach promenade. 1t is bound by no traditions
and by none OF the eXgelcieS OF active, busy,
energetic, English ana American women. The
french bllS1ntSS woman does not trouble herself
about fashion, except when she goes out on sun
day: then she takes carriage, can wear lace in
the park, and train II she choose, and is as good
A walking suit. on the contrary worn by a belle
or fashionable woman in Pans, can never be
taken seriously. IL always has the air OF Joke, of
make-beleve. IL is designed TO produce an effect;
not 10 strengthen or aid a purpose. This winter,
for example, Mr. Worth is making short costumes
In hghtest pink ana palest blue cloth, which may
with silver or beached fox fur and with ostrich
leather trimmings in the natural coors.
Miss McLane wears pink suit OF this deScrip-
ton and MIS-. James Brown Potter Il gray suit
with wrought silver belt made by Druit
A novel effect in embroidery Is produced by mix
Ing silver with back jet upon Rubens brown. 1t
Is considered very distinguished. A large Rubens
hat In brown, with silver and jet over the crown,
and Drown ostrich feathers would accompany
such costume. Felt Is not now worn in Paris by
women OF exclusive tastes. Velvet Is used for bon
nets, or they are made OF the embroidery and a
piece Of the fabric To match costumes Felt is re-
served for the large hats OF little girls and then il
Is what Is called "yelvet" 1eIt; SOFT with velvet
nni5n; out beaver Is Later and more elegant, even
for little girls
NEW LONDON BONNET
From London has been introduced into New York
a "theater' bonnet This consists OF a soft cap
crown and plated brim OF velvet, lined with con-
traSting color or different tint in silk or satin and
tied satin or grOS grain strings. The crown has
an inner. stiff lining, which keeps 1t in an up
right position; but IL is not injured by being taken
OF and held in the lap or carried on the arm It
Is something like the granny bonnet fer girls. Is
easily made and useful for long trips On cars and
Tor steamer wear.
Felt is much less used here than formerly:
beaver has taken its place. The large brown and
black beaver hats, trimmed with full pluInes-five
In group-of ostrich feathers, are most effective
As well rs becoming They possess much more
distinction than the high, hard, stif1y trimmed
and exaggerated felt hats, that one must be
pleased at their revival
The latest high hats seem to be composed en-
urey OF wings The foundation may be felt or
straw-the lighter tine better. Wings cover IL en-
tirely and are set straight up. with a bird, per-
they We're last winter. They have disappeared
entirely rom dresses but seem to have been taken
w by florists A lady recently received a basket
nlit>i wholly with maiden-hair ferns out OF which
white doves seemed 10 be flying.
FedIher anu iQr trimming Is rage everywhere
this year Borders OF ostrich feather trimming
are used FOR trains instead OF ruching, the thick
fine plating " the fabric, supported by an in
terror plating OF silk and lace, projecting not more
lower edge
Black and gold is the latest and most decided
combination Not deep yellow but maize. amber
topaque) and jonqufi, covered with an open pat
Tern IN pendant Jet or thicky jetted lace.
The REVIVAL OF THE AANTILLA.
An English lecturer on art (Mr Henry Black
burnl seriously advocates the getting rid OF the
bonnet on social occasions, particularly at thea
tiers. concerts and the opera, and the adoption OF
the m2ntilla- be considers the bare head as bad
As the bOaneted head He insists that the rose
the algrette and the Lace chu scarf or small man
tilla arranged as protection TO the throat "a
well as a dress for the head and covered with the
hood OF the Arab burnOus-the latter TO be re-
moved, o. course, on entering theater or dwelling
wOuid lOrin simple, convenient, picturesque and
highly becoming style OF thedter and Sein-pubc
evening costume. He urges the rest rainin nffu
eicc OF the oriental idea Ia sober uniform street
costume and the expansion OF tine beautiful and
picturesque in the home and indoor dress
There l. value II this idea-which has been ad.
VOcatsd before-but unfortunately IL is somewhat
opposed 10 the genius OF American women, who
usually prefer 10 dress FOR the public rather than
for THE cat, as one Of them expresses it, referring
10 tue extended and heightened employment OF
night keyesS ia America
AfD-wISTER SHOPPING.
II Is popularity supposed that anything can be
obtained in New York, II one only has money to
pay for 1t: but this is mistake BY January 18th
the 'eiry goods season is practically over: Gus
TONERS are lew, The employed force Is busy taking
account 0l STOCK preparatory TO putting in spring
GOOS; ana the safes are mainly In the fine OF bar.
gains, or remnants thrown out and reduced in
PriSe, In crder 10 attract those who have money
and can afford 70 lay them aside TIL wanted
A LADY VINO starts out at this time to find
special color or shade Oh color: a novelty fabric
pattern Of fine but limited Description VIII almost
certainly 1aal IN her quest and return home with
her very much modified 10 the av,an, 80