Mohave County miner., 1887-05-28
A CULTIVATED NOSE.
WHAT IS NECESSARY IN ORDER 70
SELECT A PERFUME. =
4 Matter OF Experimcnt--fiow PerfssnSe
are Gsthered-sIapncr Of Making Soas
Of the Popular Drands-Combiniag
Original Odors.

are Gathered>MaDner OF Making 6O0o
Of the Popular Drands-Combinfag
Original Odors.
@You haven't a cultivated nose" said Q
manufacture Of perfumes In large store
down town TO a customer, who admitted that
he could not remember that his moss bad ever
been subjected TO any particularly invigorat-
ing process, but he asserted that he had psr-
feet confidence In his ability to pick out tust
what he wanted
THAT Is the trouble with almost every onc.n .
continued the dealer, @who attempts to seiece
perfume when not used 10 it That man
who has just left here win not he satia3ed
with his purchase the next time he takes o
smell OF IL because he viii not find II to b
what he expected After nose that has nce
been raised in the business smells four or Ave
samples Of cologne, the flavor Of each win
nnger in the iiostrils and then an infMioe
and poorer odor, IL introduced to these lingee.
ing scents, In almost every case viii form Q
pleasing combination that Is thought to b.
satisfactory. For the time being IL win b.,
but afterw0rd the compounder OF colognes
will be called fraud. The sense Of smell u
widely different In individuals, and The Inn
agination helps along wonderfully. .
WHAT ACUTE NOSES CAN DO.
As matter Of experiment ! have piscsd
the same kind Of cologne In twelve bottles
labeled differently, and have had people take
a smell Of all the bottles and detect the re-
semblance Of each one TO the flower mm-
toned on the label Again have seen moses
50 acute that they would put out from COM
bination Of odors each ingredient and rarely
would any he missed. This Is a wonderful
thing, but the nose can be trained 30 do Il,
and the cologne maker must have the faculty
In order to make up any kind OF cologne from
Q given sample. This explains the method by
which the famous colognes are initiated and q
dealer can hardly start new brand on tbs
market before every one n the business Is
making the same thing.
"The best perfumes are made from howerS.
The effort that is being made 10 extract per-
fumes from petroleum and other things
viii prove 'abortive, as they can never
equal the delicacy Of the odor of Q
genuine flower. The amount Of cologne
made in America is enormous, but it does
not approach the quantity manufactured
In Europe, where its use Is well nigh uni.
versaL In this country perfumes are made
from the original flowers only on q small
into general competition on such a basis The
odors ARE nearly all imported in the shapes Of
oils and essences, and from these a. a base the
colognes are made. In many foreign coun-
tries whole communities are supported by
cultivating and gathering flowers. The cut
flowers are usually placed Ia large watts
upon which a proporticnatc amount OF
water Is poured. After II has stood for .
certain time the process Of evaporation h
hastened 10y heat, and the oil in the flowers
passes into vapor This Is then condemned,
and the oil is found foating ON the water.
The oil seems to contain the aromstic princi-
pie Of plants. To make essences from the oil
It is usually mixed with alcohol Some Of the
oils are NO volatile that they cannot be gath
cred in this manner. They will fly OF In the
process Of distillation with water, and the
delicate suggestions Of sweetness are Lost. To
obviate this heavy or fixed oil Is employed.
1t Is usually the finest grade Of beef snet. Thh
by heat Is converted into liquid state, and
the flowers are put into it. The odor Of the
plant will pass into the fixed oil and be held .
prisoner Some alcohol Is also used In this
method, and 1t Is in the shape Of beef sose
paste laden with the fragrance Of many bsaa.
tiful flowers that much Of our perfume h in
ported ... ..-~.. q,
HOW PERFUMES ARE GATHERED
"The famous altar Of roses is made from
the Rosa Damnscena, which grows like Q
weed in Smyrna and in some parts Of Tsrr
key and France, though the growth h COM
paratively small in the latter country Ths
natives of these places collect this Oh In Q
ample manner. The roses are placed -
water, and after decomposition sets in the Oh
foats on the surface and IL is absorbed by cot
ton balls deftly dipped into the liquid. Ths
cotton under pressure gives up this oil, which
Is bottled and sealed A bushel Of Howsrs
will produce only few drops of OIL TAs
genuine II the most expensive oil in tbs pAr-
ket, and worth s32 an ounce. Il h adu1tsr-
ated with oil Of rhodium, wax and other sub
stances, and the price Is arranged 20 suit the
purchaser The strength Of this oil makes u
sickening In its natural state. The sdulsera-
tion has reached such high ssate OF perfsc.
ton that even the most expert are deceived
byit. ..".....
"Patchouli il made from a natural plAat
growing in great abundance In the MsAQ
islands, and Il great favorite as q perfuna.
There Is growing demand now for lavendaR
water. IL is made by mixing rose and ofangN
waters with the oil Of Lavender, and has rs-
fined and pleasant as well as refreshing o6r.
The English oil Of lavender Is the best thu b
ON the market, and besides being used - Q
perfume is a favorite article la bakeries o q
flavor for cakes and fancy products IL b Q
high stimuIant and efficient aid to digestion
until the system becomes used 10 IL, and tAaa
II is liable TO breed one Of the worst form oe
dyspepsia. The lavender shrub and The ~
samine plant are cultivated 10 q large extsot
In England and France for this industry.
The genuine heliotrope is not rs fine an odor
AZ the imitation. The latter Is known ss tho
white helio,ropc and Is made from q cosnbina-
ton Of violet and vanilla, and has soporiAe
II brcathed for any Rhgth OF tins.
Bergnmot, which with musk forms the
staple perfume of tho col0ed population.
is a comparatively cheap oil. II Is msie
from a small species Of lemon, the bess
quality Of which grows IA the island Of
Sicily, and is cultivated specially for this
purpose. The suit Ia picked while hard and
unripe, and II takes about 400 TO produce .
pint of oil under pressure. Bergamo. Is Q
slight irritant, and II Is said viii raise hair
on bald head. The distinguishing mark Of
the tube rose Is strength, while the violet In
light and pure. Tho yerbena was once
great fayorite, but IL is now rarely called for
The rose geranium makes an elegant per-
fume and is nearly as good as the altar OF
roses The lily of the valley produces one OF,
the richest perfumes, and the lemon, orange
and daffodil are much thought Of.
"But the best perfumes are combinations Of
thc original odOrs. There are about 100 Of
them, many Of them which have had their
Day. The secret Of a combination is to mix
the odors so that none Is prominent and all
a Lost Tho IrSt t,yf, tho ,t,ciav,f oa,, ia