New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-01-30
SPRING BONNETS AND HATS.
THE COMING FASHIONS.

season. Importers predict the general OF fancy
brads, though many Milan straws shown in dark
shades OF color There is effort to introduce lower
crowns but high square crowns are shown on all the
hats and nearly all the bonnets thus far opened |
BOnnets remain very close at the side the trimming
being masscd top by the millner in to
suit her fancy and the face of the While it Is
anticipated that ribbons and piece velvet will be
standard trimmings for spring and summer there are
many fancy gauzes which will be used with flowers
and for yelling flowers. There Is growing tendency
to make bOnnets individual in style, so that no two
bonnets shall be alike this necessitates the use OF
variety of materials in trimming, and ostrich pompons,
tips aietes of feathers and aisrettes and pques OF
fl ne flowers will all be used.
COLORs.
The colors of the spring will be subdued order
any rich colors used the aim will be to blend
them so carefully that there will be nothing pro
nounced-or bizarre in the effect There are many rose
tints among the colors which will probably take
the place OF the brilliant cardinal and red shades OF
previous These shades are shown in
various OF color from fade tapestry pink known
cd to the brilliant Charles the Tenth coOrs
which repeat the shades and tnts OF the wild rose, and
are usually called "eglantlne" cOors. Other pink
shades varously known as crustaoea' and yeroL
Japan" which in its palest tint approaches in color the
brilliant hue of the Japanese mnnow and In the dark
est shades becomes a purpsh magenta. The" fam
mant' shades OF red are brilliant scarlet color The
beautiful bluegreen tint OF last season, called Sal
ambo" Il imported again under the name of pigeon
green. Renaissance green Is color shade
tint taken from the old green of Gobeln
embroidery. Pale Sevres blues in greenish
tones ore shown in several shades feliows range In
color from the pale primrose yeows to the deep orange
shades. Puppies imported in many shades and
tones OF there reddish puppies called this
season anemone" the importers cards OF color but
these are better known by their old name OF heorope
there are pale acs, lavcnders and violet purples.
Natural beige tnts drabs and standard colors complete
the list OF tnts and shades. 1t is anticipated that two
shades OF the same color will be considered In
better taste in millinery than strong contrast whence
some milliners speak doubtingly OF the pronounced
I lata nj m
eolors are very popular in Paris.
BRAIDs AND SHAPES.
Large numbers of wide Italian plaits imported
embroidered with fine Tuscan straw. These braids
are shown in all shades of dress goods and will be sewn
into little Lenten bonnets or used the borders of
bonnets with fancy crowns or borders OF hats with
Milan crown or in any way the fertile fancy OF tho
milliner devise 1t ia pleasant thing TO know
that all braids sewn together into shapes as
well IN this country abroad and that IN ost OF this
work IL done here. The pacha braid Is fancy
combination Of satin braid and Coburg, and Is shown
in shades OF color Ike anemone and silver-gray
| or pigeon-green and beige There are q number OF
pineapple brads and among novelties are bands of
pineapple brad decorated with the woody aes OF the
| pine cone Combinations of Neapotan and rough
and ready straw shown for rustic hats Roughand
ready brads later in the season Will undoubtedly be
/ used again for ordinary " knockabOut" bonnets and
hats Little bonnets shown in myriad shapes and
styles though there is tendency TO larger styles
Some OF the shapes are similar TO the hshwe poke
worn few years ago. while others nave TINS haring
front cleft In two PLACES leaving room tor the
milliuer5 trimmings There IL little uOuDt tnat the
spring bOnnets will be even more towering In height
than those which have been worn this winter As high
bonncts not becoming to all faces there are some
lowcr0wncd bonncts OF fine Milan braid, the centre OF
| the split and filled in with an ornamental
pattern in openwork braided of strands OF Milan. Still
other bonnets with low pressed in l0bes like
the melon and called melon bonnets. Most of the
bonnet quite short and notohed up at the
back like the winter bonnets.
English walking hats i'll fine Milan with the high
sides of fancy italian braid ornamented in Tuscan
work are shown in golden brown, black and all the
dark color4 OF the The popular English turban
shape Is shown in Milan with the heavy roll in
front OF fancy Italian braid. Other hats have crown
of fancy straw with a border shape IN Milan and
fancy straw popular abroad Is an English walking
hat quite high side lov the other. and slop
ing downward at the back. No startling novelties are
shown in the shapes OF hats and it is probable that
many Of the standard shapes Of the past season Will
be popular again
JET AND FANCY STYLES.
jet in black and in all the varying shades OF color
manufactured under the rame jet " il prominent
again among imported goods The various parts OF the
bonnet imported to he put together by the milner
"a before There are little bonnets OF fancy black
sraw woven over open wire frames and thcbly
beaded with Jet. Little bonnets of fancy Tuscan
straw are shown IN black and dark oolors.
RIBBONS. GAUzEs. AND FLOWERS
Ribbons OF gross grain with fancy loop or feather
edge and plain gros-grain ribbons will al be used by
mncrs this spring The widths known to merchants
as Nos. II and 10 are those which will be most
generally used for bows knots and clusters OF ribbon
TO mix with velvet aigrees and flowers. All varieties
OF fancy STYLES imported in stripes fancy checks,
and plaids and variety of fancy edges are shown
among the new ribbons. While the fancy ribbons
nre ALWAYS useful for chidrens hats and other
purposes it Is probable that plain grosgran ribbons
with plain loop edge and in the lustrous quality
used during the winter will be the standard trimming
ribbon I'm fancy ribbons there are many hair stripes.
gay paids. and fancy stripes Stimulating No ribbon
with feather edge predominence OF red and biue
and especially of the Wattoa colors," pale pink and
blue, ia shown in the new plaid ribbons
Fancy gauzes are imported in white and delicate
colors and shades in tuted patterns in chenille effect
OF stripes, checks and cross-bars. There are some
pauzcs brocaded cr0ssbars which caught at the
sections by tuited naheads of silk; others quite
open in pattern SO that they may be used Tor NeinS
flowers. .
berry blossoms forget-me.nos and tiny close rose
buds are mt hand. These will he used as pques or
agrettes build up the front OF bOnnets to tho rega
ton height There are some broad Hat Dandeaus Oh me
flowers shown for the sides OF bonnets and they arc
arranged in the centre so that they VIII mnSe grace
fully with the high trimmings on the Top OF Dohhets
or they NAV be- used with bOnncts having lower |
crown If the trimmer desires.
The immense demand tor aigretes during the past |
winter seemed at one time threatening TO exhaust tho
supplv, Fortunately for mllners those delicate |
pimes which grow In the wings OF the heron family
attain their full beauty during the month OF February
and ut about this time the years supply usually comes
to market Some OF the crossaigrettes which are
curved at tho tin and from the wings OF the small
white heron, bird scarcely larger in the body than
BARNARD cock valued "a highly as $40 an ounce
Tho straight aigrettes are much cheaper Inc entire
supply for our market IA taken from Drds caught III
the swamps near tho tropics.
COIFFURES.
There "a no radical change expected this spring IN
hair-dressing The hair of matrons and lades over
,wa,,vavo IA worn ouite high. The back bair Is |
twisted in figure eight high The crown OF the head
while the front hair Is drawn back In heavy tress
over the forehead and there short crs at the sdes
coming toward the temples. lt the forehead Is too |
high or too much wrinked to admit OF this style OF
front hair, short slight bang Is worn reaching 10 the
middle OF the forehead and curved up at the sides.
This Russian bang is especially becoming to long faces
and il adopted by those who wear their hair in coil
on the crown OF the head and by young ladies who
wear a coil OF braids This coil is at the back OF
the head in about the middle and is more youthful
worn by young ladies with English hats and bonnets
alike tho short notched back OF the bonnet leaving
amnla room for the coil of braids. Hair dressers