St. Paul daily globe., 1887-10-02
ide seams turned back at the outside,

and finished with the binding and a
single button at the top of each fold, or
there are two small boX-plaitS laid un-
derneath in the skirt of the garment,
these also being finished with buttons.
The fronts fit closely or half-fitting, are
double OF single breasted. and have re-
yerS and high standing collars. Braid,
both wide and narrow, and used as
bindings in plain fiat bands, or in braid
ing patterns, is also greatly used and is
deSefvedly popular. In fact. one can
hardly go wrong on short cloth jacket,
for everything possible in this line will
be used.
Among hundreds of different designs
seen in the wholesale department of a
large New York house was noticed a
little double-breaSted dark blue jacket
trimmed across the front with white
braid, set on side by side and ending
in pointed tabs, which could be but
toned across, buttoned back, or arranged
In alienation, as one pleased. A dark
green heavy cloth jacket, with welted
seams and little pockets with flaps, was
finished around the edges with two or
three rows of what looked like a fine
gold braid, but which was really the
wrong side of stitchings in yellow done
on Grover IL Baker machine, which
gives an odd cord on the back, A very
pretty little design in lightweight chew
lots designed for early fall wear were
dOuble-breaSted, and buttOned across at
the top and bottom of the opening, clos
ing by fly and fat buttons between.
Still another design was braided all
over, the braid Sewed on by machinery,
of course, a fact hardly to be suspected,
and revealed only after close exami-
nation. Dark green's and dark blue
embroidered in black, were especially
handsome; lovelier still was the dark
blush gray embroidered in a coral pat
tern all around the skirt of the Jacket,
and outlining the front and back. The
embroidery looked like ''over and over"
work, and it was hard to believe that it
was the product of any machine less
Skillful than the human hand. This de-
sign comes also in mode color, drab and
gray.
A pretty little Hussar coat was braided
to suit the name, the front trimmed
with bands which were outlined in
Russia braid. This jacket closed with
hooks set along the front edge, and had
q row of buttons and loops of braid as a
decoration. Plain Melton cloth jackets
were finished with braid and buttons.
collar, cuffs and V-Shaped ornament on
front and back, were very stylish in
deed.
To wear over evening dresses or din
ner gowns there are few little sleeve
less jackets made of braid passemen-
terie, black or white, or touched up with
a little gold braid. The braid was put
together with embroidery stitches of
silk or fine gold thread, and the effect of
the whole was exceedingly handsome.
THE HANDSOME DRESS GARMENTS
for outside wear, are mostly in dOlman
or viSite shape, and in these there are
scores of varying shapes. A little
beauty was made short, with dolman
sleeve, a little longer in front than be-
hind, of soft gray cameFS hair; this was
embroidered all over in small pattern
worked in steel cOlOred beads, and filled
in slightly with solid work done in silks.
The long, fine chenille fringe was tipped
with beads, and the garment was lined
with gathered gray satin. Even pret-
tier perhaps was the same design in
brown, and embroidered with shaded
brown beads.
A very handsome black plush gar
ment was trimmed about the edge with
fine fringe of narrow silk braid
tightly curled up into little corkscrews,
making soft and fluffy border. Down
the back and long fronts of this gar
ment was handsome garniture of
fringed silk cords. on which small silk
drops or beads were placed at regular
intervals.
On one black plush wrap the dolman
sleeves ended in deep points, which
were trimmed with drops, while the
back part of the garment was put on
like plated flounce. A dolman of
matelasSe cloth was trimmed with three
deep and narrow points of plush, eX-
tending down from the collar in front
and back. Another odd design
was of seal plush with a
wide braid passementerie down the
back and outlining the deep points
which formed panel-like arrangements
on the sides. Fronts, sleeves and back
were trimmed with fur, the latter form
ing the skirt in the back of the garment.
Very dainty, too, was a perfectly plain
little dolman of seal plush, Testers
best, and hardly to be distinguished
from fur, made in good shape, with
pointed fronts.
A very ''Frenchy" and elegant look
ing little garment was of fine black
plush and black silk. 1t was made in a
jacket shape with long square fronts;
over the shoulder full folds of the silk
passed curved over the fronts and were
caught up near the under arm seams
with Jet ornaments, while in the back
these folds passed down in large plaits
to form a part Of the skirt of the gar
ment.