St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1887-09-25
NO MYSTERY THERE.

Queer Sights at a Chinese Play
Crowds, Confusion, Smoke and
Paraiyzing Odors.
l was in the native quarter of Hong
Kong that had my first opportunity of
Witnessing Chinese play where the
performances are happily short, in ODE
dience to British regulations, says
writer IN Murray's Magazine. A par
ticularly eminent StrOlling company was
advertised to appear for q few nights,
and the appreciation of the promised
treat was eyinced by a crowded house.
Although the place of honor facing
the stage had been retained on the open
ing night for the party of which |
formed one, we had been warned that
empty boxes are temptation to the
lawleSs who find themselves unduly
squeezed. Punctual, therefore, to the
appointed time we were received with
much ceremony and chin-chinning by
the proprietor of the establishment, who
ushered us through a rude lobby and
up flight of greasy stairs, and present
ing us with a large key, departed.
Having opened rough door we
which was already crowded to suffoca-
ton. The air was redOlent of Chinese
odorS; the heat and closeness were OPP
pressive; the noise deafening. The au-
dience was there, but the stage-un-
concealed by any curtain-Showed no
signs of preparation. On the placard
without it was stated that the actors
would play, provided the sea was calm
and the wind fair; and, turning to a
Chinese gentleman who was to act as
Interpreter, l suggested that some mis-
hap must have befallen the travellers.
Not So" he said, with superior and
indulgent smile for the ignorance of the
affect foreigner; ''the actors are little
not keep the audience waiting''
But" argued, ''there is nothing on
the stage except posse of juvenile
ronghs, who, intrenched there, are
gnawing nuts and oranges" Indeed,
things did not look promising. We saw
in front of us bare, narrow, empty
shelf, raised above the floor, with a cen
trail window between two open door
ways at the back. No properties, or
scenery. or lamps, orfurniture. 1t was
Just such stage as may be seen at
home in a lOw-claSs provincial music
hail.
Our players use no SCENES" ex-
planned the cicerOne, land carry their
HSCtSSdIltS WIFI lllelU. EXdIllllo the
audience while we wait"
The crowd before us was we'll worth
study; singular gathering; strange
and OutlandiSh to tourist but recently
arrived in China. The auditorium con-
sisted of vast square space, with plain
raftered roof and two wide galleries
superposed-a lofty hall of fine proper
lions, as undecOrated as an English
barn. Rows of benches occupied the
f1o0r, with passage running round the
walls, supplemented at either end by
small fight of steps for convenience of
access to the stage. The lower gallery,
divided into sections by posts and rails,
was filled with the well-to-do-a Won
derful parterre of bright-hued silks,
scarlet, pale blue, tea-green, russell,
lavender-in fine contrast with the line
OF fiat yellow faces and pigtails. On the
house rOof-were perched in Squatting
masses dense throng of blue-cottoned
coolies, smoking. gesticulating and
chattering with such hubbub of
chaotic jabber as seemed to foreshadoW
a riot.
By degrees, as the air became more
loaded, the loose clothing was peeled
Off, and ere the evening was half over
there was above us a sea of yellow
bodies. dimly seen through smoke, a
medley of wriggling bare arms and legs,
with not garment visible. A turbu-
lent set OF semi-savages, quarrelsome
and noisy, are the burly coolies of Hong
Kong. TO let off steam pent by long
waiting, there was kept up fusilade of
rough banter, peppering fire of chaff
showers of peanuts and orange peel,
varied now and then by combined di-
version in favor of those upon the plat
form. If uproariouS the assembly was
in the best of humors. Meanwhile the
silk-rObed occupants of the first gallery
sat dumbly putting opium, gently flut-
terlng fans, as paSSiOnleSS as dolls, deaf
as well as blind, as unconscious of the
flow of time as of the cracking artillery
Of laughter.
Suddenly there was brief silence, then
a roar. All heads were turned to the
stage, from which the host of little boys
was swept as with broom into the laps
of those below. A procession of coolies
each bearing two swinging burdens.
Chairs, tables, huge travelling chests,
gaudily painted, went surging up the
side steps, across the platform, through
the doors, followed by mob in simple
garb. Here was the company at last,
preceded by goods and chatteis, arriving
like the players in "Hamlet." Our
cicerone was right. 1t was not the way
of the actors to keep an audience watt
ing.
In surprisingly brief space the
chests were deposited in room behind
and-as could be discerned through the
central window-rapidly unpacked
Lights moved to and fro. By and by
ladies in robes of many colors could be
seen daubing visages before small mir
rors, while in front of the barred win
dowS the orchestra took their places.
At one side party of men rugged up in
a trice tent (dormitory of the perform
erS), while others united and disposed
the furniture. Lanterns and candles in
sconces were now being hung and
lighted; then, with banging of GYM
balls, drums and tOmtoms the musicians
ushered in the actors.
Another Field for Women.