The Daily times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1886-1889, 1887-11-27
THE OLD VIRGINIA COOKS.

| for which the Maryland anu 'Hgihia
STYLE of cooking had been tried. II may
be interesting to state some OF the points
OF the Virginia cuisiae OF the old
time that were peculiar in their very
great excellence. In the first place the
cooking was done in broad open fire
place by fire of seasoned hickory wood
which is the best because OF its freedom
from smoke and odOr The breads OF
different sorts were baked in ovens and
there was a peculiar style OF broiling
which was very fine. But the
main feature was the method OF
roasting meat, beef, mutton, or game
on the spit, which was fitted in Tin
kitchen" that is, a rooster made in the
shape Of q barrel with third section cut
out II was placed before the great bed
Of hickory Goals and moved first very
close into the fire until the outer edge Of
the meat was rapidly toasted. Then the
chef he cuiane generally a colored pro-
fessor of long training moved the tin
kitchen to a proper distance and skillfully
watched the operation.
About twelve minutes is the time for
tine wild duck. The Potomac canyasback
which is very rarely seen here, was the
particular pride of the old Virginia cooks
As well as OF tue gourmands OF the old
times. The bird, to be perfect, must have
fed f1r several days on the root bulb OF
the wild celery, which imparts a pariicu
lar and exquisite flavor that the top Of
the grass does not possess.
This rare delicacy was served with
fried hominy, some white celery and the
best Burgundy warmed to the temperature
of the Sun i'm a Southern window. or If
the weather was ma propitious, the bot
lies were put i'm a moderately warm room
for several hours beforehand The most
popular tap was old "Tinto' Madeira
wine called corn Madeira because &c was
gotten i'm exchange for the corn shipped
n the little trading barks that piled be-
tween dozens of local ports in Virginia
and Liverpool
The domestic economy of the old
Virginia planters was as complete as 10
was peculiar, being inherited from
colonial days, when the great farms had
so few and such slow communications
with the great world without, that the
master had to have the shoes, clothes,
food and everything made by his slaves
The system extended so far as taking
the wool from The sheep and having 10
carded and made into cloth, and the same
completeness extended TO tanning the
hides Of the animals and making them
into shoes
Up to the breaking out of the war the
old system had been gradually modified
TO modern ideas, but our rich planters
on the Potomac verhad not given up the
old style of cooking. and it was and re-.
mains TO day proof against an criticism
We must not close without describing
the method Of cooking the hickorycured
ham. 10 was put in cold water forwelye
hours, then simmered in q pot FOR ten
hours, and finally moderately boiled in
cider and then the jacket taken Oft.
The methods of the old time Maryland
and Virginia are alike, and if there is
any victory Of one style of The present
day over the other il is only owing TO
the superior ability Of aparlicular cook
Welcker in Washington has for years
used the style Of roasting and broiling as
we have described
The fine dinner should be: First. six
small raw oysters second. consomme
soup third, ierrepin fourth canvas
back duck: dnh RoQuefort cheese and
coffee.
All the enree, and lighter COURSES that
the French cooks know how TO serve
NAV bounufully sci of such a dinner.
but the outline we give is the foundation
that must be first laid with proper ma
torial and By the hand of an artist.