Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-05-21
BY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
N.nc,, OOtI eoluaJ tbo J,G,o,,l4,- -,

SURROUNDED BY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
MARCH 29th.-I solved the difficulty in
which | was last night with, think, the
wisdom of Solomon, for divided forces
and sent my luggage in the karuma with
Dickichi over the Atami pass, and came
afoot through the Hakone. The road is
paved and broad, but steep, and the stones
have been worn to such state of smooth
ness that my boots could scarce find hold
though crowds of people with empty crates
wearing the usual straw sandals The
scenery became grander as | assembled
valleys and villages on everyside, and
the 13,000-feet altitude of Fujisan was
from all points visible. A two-hours' hard
climbing brought me to the Pass and
highest point of the Tokaido-3,0OO feet
nearly above the valley-and then plung-
ing into the depth of solemn forest, l
soon had glimpses between the dark trees
of the blue lake of Hakone, almost indigo
in its blueness, and finally the whole lake
lay before me, wonderfully placed, without
a ripple save these made by tiny row boat
pulling away from the shore.
On the veranda of the Hafuya hotel, for
the first time in week, sat upon a chair;
it was delightful to lapse again into Euro
pean barbarism, and at a broad table drink
my beer from whole-souled, wide-mouthed
goblet On the right, built upon small
peninsula, is huge, barn-like edifce of
wood, ugly enough, but so much superior
to the usual japanese modern house as to
attract second look; it is a summer
palace of H. |. NJ If it suits him | sup
pose it is all right, but it is certainly as
great a blot upon nature as its owner is.
ANOTHER RUGGED TRIP.
Fuji's top Just shows above gray Mi
kuni, but | cannot stay to enjoy it, for
there are more mountains to be crossed be-
fore night ought to be met at Odawara 1
intended to leave the main road and strike
off to Miyanoshita by the Ashinoyu
Springs, but having been directed wrong,
and Intentionally so, / walked several
miles before | learned the mistake at Hata
A ragged wood-cutter whom | spoke to
told me that there was narrow trail lead
ing up to the top of high mountain which
rose before me threateningly. But | could
see several waterfalls pouring over its
sides, and here and there broad fern
covered spots, so | knew there would be
even more than a far-reaching view to re-
pay climb, and | started, after giving
my stalwart but seedy informer three cop
per cents. He told me the trail would be
difficult to follow, and | could not well tell
where to take the right branch to Miyano-
shits, and he would go along and show me.
| offered him ten cents if he would go far
enough to point out the turn, but he re-
fused, saying it was not enough so l left
him and went alone. Once in the Tyrolese
Alps poor man guided me for ten miles
over a snow-coyered pass, and refused
my profered reward of several forms, say
ing with honest pride that he could do
kindnesses to a stranger for the pleasure.
The difference is very marked between
these two cases; the japanese refused to
walk, one mile only, for good reward,
while the Tyrolese mountaineer walked ten
times the distance and refused the pay
Each day of my intercourse with these
people dawns with darker cloud upon
my first enthusiastic admiration for that
superficial show, which l in ignorance took
for kindlinesS. Despite the woodcutter's
predictions, found no difficulty, as the
path, though steep and up the face of a
mountain, was made of stone steps. which
wound about zigzag with ever-pleasing
views of wooded or volcanic, lava-covered
hills. / passed several people going
YEARLY along in chairs, and did not envy
them their
CRAAPED AND DIZZY POSITIONS.
Near the top l turned by well-trodden
path TO the right and at last saw far below
me the picturesque hamlet and springs of
Miyanoshita. | buttoned up my jacket
and ran the two miles down hill over
rustic bridges, along canyon sides and past
hundreds of pretty cascades embosomed
in moses and luxuriant ferns. Just tired
enough to enjoy a rest, / found myself at
that model house, Fuji-ya. Truly the
scenery at Miyanoshita surpassed any |
saw this day. An easy descent to Yamoto
springs brought me again TO Tokaido, and
thence a few miles to Odawara on the
Gulf Of Sagami brought me within one
day of the end of my journey.
AT YOKOHAMA
MARCH 30th-Leaving at $50 A. NJ, the
distance of thirty-seven miles was made
by $50 p. NJ, over very dull road. The
police stopped me as my kttruma was Just
| crossing the last bridge and ordered the
terrified Dikichi to put ON more clothes,
| Out the style ana amount Oh my clothing
was evidently satisfactory for they ordered
no changes in it. Yokohama at last, the
best Of all Japan, with its hundreds of
ships and steamers coming from all the
world. / love to sit upon the doorsteps of
a country and watch these visitors coming
and going. Again the home-like Club
Hotel, again my pictures and my books
about me, and hundred new and happy
memories to be with me forever.
| CHARLES A. GUNNIsoN.
| How TO PRESERVE THE HAIR-A good
| supply of oxygen is necessary for the
| - c;-. 4