The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-07-04
THE SUMMER HAT.
It's Variety as Seen in New York-Other
Matters.

NEW Ohh, ui1 o. Il llC loiO las dll Ob-
ject in life this summer. Its ambition,
usually gratified, is to be rustic. 1t is the
business of the hat to ignore vexatious cir
cumstances that may keep the town house
open till well into July. The hat cultivates
the art of looking as il it's owner was devot-
ing the summer TO sunburn, and berries and
milk, and when caught on the city streets it
waves its wild flowers serenely i'll proof of
having just come in for an hours indlspen-
sable shopping, and being ready to fit back
to the far-away country farm house again
on the next train.
The hat par excellence is of a soft, pliable
twig, something after the willow family,
colored and woven to look as If the wearer
had just twisted it together herself under
the trees with the stream for a mirror. AS
matter of fact it is imported, and economy
is not its prominent feature. Sweet simple
lty not infrequently makes heavier de-
mandS on the check book than elaboration.
1t is a pretty enough hat, though, and comes
in scores of shapes, some of them artistic as
hats go. The willow hat takes no trimming
but flowers. 1t is the fancy of the hour to
adorn it with as good an imitation as the
milliner can furnish of whatever posy hap
pens to be in bloom. Last week the first
rural hats that appeared carried punches OF
pink azaleas and mountain laurel. This
Week L nave SttH OD6 VI bNO WOuutl
and about with wreaths of wild roses not
too large, and pale tinted like the briar rose
that grows on the Palisades. Pink clovers
will be in order for a short time, and
then one may expect the meadow lilies to
come in.
Another rustic hat that wins a good deal
of favor is braided of green Mexican grass
that keeps its color, with brown shade or
two for relief thrown in. Such hats are
60, vl1
how to handle them fasten q noSegay
loosely on one side with meadow daisies
corn flowers, summer asters and maybe a
red hawberry or two nodding as the wind
blows Coarselv braided straws of all de-
Scriptions have been the rule since July came
in, and will be taken as q compliment rather
than disCourteSy to the most ceremonious
of toilets. If one doesn't fancy them she
can take sheer white null and veil her hat
completely, nesthng her pOsy bunch among
the folds on top of the crown. Her only
other recourse is the newly revived hat of
drawn muslin, which will be used little
with diaphanous white toilets at garden
parties on the lawn.
But one doesn't always plunge into the
country for relief from summer heats. At
the seaside the sailor hat in rather coarse
navy blue, brown or mottled blue and white
straws will hold almost exclusive sway. 1t
takes q DaIlu OF IlDDOl IOT OF
dotted net with flowers It's chief rival
same shape, and which is now white with
q cardinal band and now red with a white
band.
The driving hat is big and gay in color.
With white cloth suit it is of white felt,
Ordinarily it is a great picturesque Rem
brandt or Gainsborough, of the style adopted
by Mrs. Lorillard Spencer, Jr., and some
other society folk three or four weeks ago
and cropping out on the heads of all their
following since the big hat is covered with
dropping white plumes, and fad-more
sensible than most fads-that attends its
wearing is that young women, married and
unmarried let their hair blow about as it
will under it, the vexatiOus, eve spelling
gauze veil being reserved for mature age and
amounting to q confession of anxious care
for curls whose faithfulness is not to be
trusted, and for dubious frizettes and
waves.
For horseback riding the hat is invariably
low and soft-crowned. High, stiff
beavers are as inadmissible as they are
ugly.
To say summer bonnet is the same thing
as saying lace or tulle. 1t is not saying
much else except roses or wreaths Of fine
flowers. The dress bonnet is very small.
very reserved in its use of colors Of contrast
with the dashing hats, and chary of showing
itself on hot days, save on occasions
when its presence is considered absolutely
necessary.
Three French milliners--all milliners hail
from Paris and must be addressed as
Madame, no matter what land has the honor
of their birthplace-have recently astonished
the town by buying a magnificent build
ing on one of the best Fifth avenue corners,
where they will establish the business of hat
and bonnet making. The price paid was
$500, 900, about half TO remain on mortgage.
Besides the purchase money the sisters must
have 700 or $75, 900 TO invest in stock for
such big and fashionable trade as they
propose to do. Yet it was not so MANY
years ago that they were almost pennileSs
immigrants who went from Castle Garden
to set up an humble shop among the East Side
tenement dwellers. Some women have
business ability
/ doubt if any more mgubrious memorial
was ever devised than one which is sexhibited
with great pride by New York photog-
rapher. Ii Is picture of two girls stand
ing on opposite sides of a property altar"
leaning over it in the very act of sitting
their convulsive sobs with their bandker-
chiefs. Across the face of the altar is the
legend ''Good-byo Dozens of copies of this
unique exhibition of bad taste Were actually
sent out to friends as assurances of grief at a
bereavement.
The Buffalo Typographical Convention,
which recently decided that women should
be paid the same rates as men for the same
work, was one of the most intelligent bodies
of laboring mems. representatives ever as
sembled. IL is only foolish laboring men
who demand that women shall be paid
lower wages for the same work. The com
petition OF well-paid women is not SO dan
gerous.
There will be more female ''stars" OF the
first mountaineering success by the
ducats which theatre-goers pay--upOn
the American stage next season than this
In one lucrative profession at least the
women are elbowing the men aside most
completely.
Central Park is not so picturesque this
summer as it has been in former years. The
drives are Just as popular and the throng Of
carriages grows daily more dense. But what
sober vehicles they are Mrs. w II. Van
deibilt long ago set the example of riding In
a heavy barouche, gravely painted and
sadly upholstered. Only the dOwagers fol
lowed her lead for time, but of late IL has
been whispered that Phryne makes herself
the centre of attraction in the iolting little
village cart and that 10 her and 10 her alone
belong the buggy with its red wheels and
embroidered robe and the low and graceful
victoria. Responsibility accordingly turns
numbering and ponderous and dark colored
with a rush. No use. Phryne will do the
same and respectability may as well be gay
and delight the eye of the July swarm Of
country cousins us Of yore. T.. p II.
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Cholera in Rocella.