New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-04-10
MIR. REDFERN.
THE LADIES' TAILOR ON SPRING STYLES.

THE LADIES' TAILOk ON SfhlNG SI1LES.
@Tbere is one week IN the year when all tho world
goes to Cowes Prices of living 90 up fearfuliy high
everything ia high it costs halt o crown to speak to
man Cowes lives all the rest OF the year Yachting
week | think it was the yachting costumes we made
for the Princess Wales about fifteen years ago which
first made our house famous and created the present
demand for tailor gowns said Mr.. Redeem the other
dav Our hot go at Cowes has been established since
1909 IL Ia now devoted to the special branch OF
filing orders which come to us through the postofce
A lady sends q bodice and few measurements and
We ara able TO 1t her. We md gowns from Cowes to
all parts Of the world md employ there from three
to four hundred hands lust in this business alone.
The liking of English ladies for athletics out
door sports, such bicycling and lawn tennis, has
rended make tailor costumes popular Dressmakefs
could not make q dress which allowed freedom of
u,ovem emit and ladies compelled to apply to the
tailor or habit maker Cowes is in the vicinity OF the
Queens avorite home, Osborne and NE wait upon her
there continuslly-nearly every week
About nine years ago we opened our London
house and soon after our Paris house-an old club
house, beautiful building on the Rue de Riviere.
We also have house in Edinburgh opposite Sir
Walter Scotts statue and the old castle which
rises out OF the centre of the city and overooks the
town We are special tailors by appointment to the
Queen of England and the Princess OF Wales and all
tho Royal family and to the Empress of Russia, the
Queen of Portugal, the Queen OF the Netherlands,
the Queen of Denmark, Queen OF Italy, Queen OF
Serva the Crown Princess of Germany, the Queen OF
Sweden the ex Empress Eugene and the ex-Queen OF
Naples SO many Americans go to Cowes yachting
week, we had such a stream OF American trade that
we were emboldened to open our house here We rent
this house and the adjoining US on Broadway
court the two. We bring all cutters. fit
ter, and assistants with and We board and lodge
them In tho Broadway house. Many of them have
been with us for years We make promotions rs they
show merit This is the English system all large
houses In England board and lodge their help and
furnish the dresses of their assisi
aThis is one of our sitting rooms said Mr. Redeem.
showing a handsomely carpeted room with windows
opening on Ffth-ave and including bright pictures,
handsome piano of one best makers and open
English tile stove in its furnishings. We have seven
such sitting rooms Tor our hep We keep cook and
six servants wait upon them The girls have certain
evenings oA when they are allowed 10 20 to the the
aud visit friends II We know their friends are 70
spectabe. They are compelled to be at home by halt
past H." The fresh. brilliant complexions OF the
assistants at Mr.. RedIerns house are in marked con-
trast TO the saow faces OF saleswomen In our largo
stores and tell better than words the story oil comfort
able sleeping rooms, good fare and freedom from
domestic during OF hours
All our parments,r continued Mr.. Redieru 1" arc
made in the house. Nothing is sent out to squad
rooms from which perhaps they might carry the con-
tagion OF levers smallpox We import nil cloth
We hay a large trade here and large pDstoce order.
We send gowns to Denver, San Francisco, British
Columbia. Mexico and many places West There 10
special change in tailor costuncs we are now
dovoting ourselves to securing weight. American
ladies are sghter than English ladies and II Is often
impossible for them to wear a heavy skirt The skirts
OF our gowns have been heavy that some ladies
would come to for the bodice alone and 90 TO the
dressmaker Tor the skirts THIS longer necessary
We can now make skirt in any weight from three
pounds and q half upward We expect next autumn
and winter to make gowns with skirts which arc very
warm and very hight in eight We try to combine
the business OF tailor and dressmaker and make
ornate tailor, costume than formerly worn in
America We make rs pretty gown IS q dress
maker
The present fancy Is for short coats and nantes.
listers are worn moro In Englandt than In America
We made the fr.t ulster. They are immensely worn
la England: Eng ish ladies go out in all weathers in
an Ulster. We made the first covert coats which are
now so popular tho first sling mantles, and the trst
red coats The first Jersey waist was made TO Mrs.
Langtry ct our house at Cowes We are now making
a great many short coats In various materials and
STYLES We make no coat reaeh hing half way down: II
Ia o very ungracetul length, becoming To no one We
make only long ulsters or very short coats"
An assistant brought In number oil new coats which
Mr. Redeem sho we'd Hand brsidinR IN rich elaborate
patterns il q feature OF new spring coats Wide fiat
black braids are combined with narrow BLACK Russia
braid in a variety OF designs. short coat OF electric
blue ladies' cloth was shown 1t ornamented with
black Russia b aid In q succession OF crcets In imta-
ton of the braid ing French cOloners army coat
This coat fitted smoothly at the back but flowed loose
In front being simply caught at the throat fawn-
colored coat OF securing" cloth was braided With
black and gold this brsidng extended up and down
the darts the collar aud down tho fronts and
I'D tho outer seams OF the sleeve. English hats
and bOnnets we're shown In various shapes made
OF the material Of the costumes aud trimmed to match