Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-10-14
LADIES' COLUMN.
Love for the Soldier Boy Leads
Women Of Fashion to Borrow
His Trappings.
The Tea Gown Maintains lis Place.
shapes snd Shades In Fall
Millinery
Mental Trstuing and Culture Esse1tial
I'm tho Eousevffs-EOtes,
Recipes.

mace shoppers @ little impatient about
the arrival Of fall goods, and eager ques-
TONERS of STYLES and fabrics were found 81
merchants counters and in millinery
rooms. Old Sol, however, does not sbdi'
calc so easily, and the last few warm days
called halt in preparations for The fall
season. Now calling halt is strictly 6
military term, and in no sense applicable
70 fashion, and yet the array OF military
trsppings in her bazaar invOiuntsTily sug
gests military expressions. The scharn
which has always attached itself TO colo
lace and brass buttons seems to have sc
penetrated the feminine mind as to dOmi-
nate in fashions world. Now every goWI
and Jacket must have its trimmings O!
braid, the collar is Ia militaire, epaulets
and cuffs are of the glittering stuff, and
with the other mannish accompaniment
OF q street costume, the custom, "What
is it?" might be pertilently put.
This pause in the fall shopping is OF
benefit TO the women as it gives them
time to think and decide upon what they
need, It is well to wait and reflect; be-
cause thing isSpretty is smalllresson for
its purchase; its beauty is just as sppar-
emit in the shop or worn by another, and
If not adapted to the purchasers style,
means and surroundings its beauty is
soon exchanged for ashes, and instead OF
a pleasure becomes g garment OF heavl-
ness" The secret Of being well dressed
is to arrange in advance such clothing
as is needed In view of existing condi-
tons.
The women Of to-day may congratulate
themselves on the fact that in these
modern days there are no abrupt and
violent changes, and the notifications
are SO slight that from one season to
another, with little alteration, the gar
ment of last fall can be made modish.
There is an undoubted preference
given TO smooth-faced wooden cloths,
and although French and American women
see no incongruity in silk and velvet
street gowns, the English Women-for
whom Redfern Is the interpreter, ignore
these fabrics save for carriage and house
wear. A gown recently shown IN Red
ferns London house was of heavy blue
diagonal cloth, with side panels of gold
braiding, simply laid on in perpendicular
lines; the tight-fitting bodice, braided
correspondipgiy, with gold on sleeves,
vest front, and on the basque at the back.
simple, the tournure smaller than it has
been lstterly, and the bodice and sleeves
q marvel of exquisite cut and fit.
While Redfern's dresses are the embodi-
ment of all that can be desired in a wool
dress for the street, the woman OF fashion
invariably turns to Worth as the idealart-
list in silks and velvets. In Paris there is
now struggle between the styles OF the
those of Louis XVI, this giving the mod
ern Greek effect, and the snowy Rensis-
sance dress. Worth is the apostle Of the
latter, but he caters to many tastes, and
is by no means law-giVer to the beau
monde. Manufacturers and buyers seem
10 arrange the matter of fabric and the
artist the manner Of use.
Silks no longer present the faded COL
ors of the past season, but are now shown
In decided and STRIKING nues. The new
silks are of wonderfully delicate colors,
initiating the sheenY brillinncy OF the
plumage of birds and the fur OF animals.
In previous years loutre or other has been
q fashionable color; this yes- we have
silks of the colors of the blue fox, golden
besver, sable, ermine, grebe, ibis rose,
parrot green, kingfsher blue, humming-
bird red and bird-of-paradise yellow.
There are great many wAtered and
silks and satins among the
new goods. Pesu de cygne is new silk
which resembles in texture and color the
skin of the young plucked swan. Peau
de nymphe and Pesu de sole are also
named on the importers list of new
silks. These materials have q surface
like crSpe, but high satiny lustre, and
win be very effective used with lace &C
The most beautiful silks for
evening wear are the moires and satins
in Dubarry rose, cid blue, shRdowy grays
and other tints of Sevres porcelains,
which are strewn with garlands or bou-
quets of flowers In natural colors. These
silks will be made up into bouffant cos
tunes with petticosts and hipSdrsperies
like those seen on Watteau's shepherd
esses.
If in SO grave an article as one upon
fashion 1t is permissible to drop into
newspaper parIance it might be said the
tea gown ISIS here to stsy." Soft cling
ing fabric, in both silk and wool is ad-
mirably adapted for its graceful, long |
Iolds Of drapery. The flowing sleeves |
permit chaste display OF lovely arms, |
and the disposition of girdles, ribbons |
md bows is an ample exercise for femi- |
nine taste; when complete these gowns |
IRE exceedingly graceful, giving height to |
he figure, and Affording ample opportu- |
lity for the display of a woman's best |
points (pardon the iockeyism.) Tea
gowns have created demand for |
i distinctive weave of silk aud wool |
which must possess so much softness as |
20 yield to every movement. The Corah |
'iiks and VictoIiAs are favorites this fall,
md next them rank the thinner woolens
q soft fairy textures as fine as the looms
AN make them. They are exquisite
Lsdes of color in cream white, pale water
,lue, olive yellow and cameo reserved for
hese half dress and wholly delightful
towns. Pale terra Gotta opening over
ace is an autumn toilet.
The autumn leaves naturally suggest
;olor for millinery, and conspicuous in
demand are leaf-brown ribbons, bronze
nd copper trimmings and such rich,
lowing tints as the frosted leaves upon
mountain side supply. Lace hats and
comets still continue in favor, and will
'e worn late IN the season. The fsvorite
olors will be brown in various shades
live, copper, bronze. Several shades of
ray, two or three shades of heliotrope,
ottbly s rather pronounced purple, and
everal shades of cardinal and garnet.
Tsts of shirred lace with full lunches Of
copies or OF tinted autumn leaves are in
Ugh favor among young ladies'.
Every lady who keeps pace with the
ines has bonnet of fine black straw
r,mmed with ribbon and plUmes of few-