The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-04-29

the DuVerS 90 not come.
The manner of making a costume orig
mates very often in this country and is
carried over to the other side. The
enormous pattern business employs a
great number of expert dressmakers-de-
signers, both men and women, and models
of all sizes and ages. The designer
watches eagerly for even the least bit of
new idea in bodices, drapery or skirts
she sees where an improvement can be
made or more individual effect pro-
duced. This is wrought out then either
in paper or muslin, and the dressmakers
develop it in cotton cloth with the same
precision as if they were making a gown
to be worn. 1t is fitted on the model;
then, by women who understand the work,
it is cut apart, marked and notched for
seams, darts and hens; sent, with its de-
scription, to the factory and is next seen
in the form of the paper pattern, folded
compactly and graded to suit the differ
ent-sized women. Letters come in ask
ing for special styles-if it is believed that
they are good, care is taken to bring them
out, but wild, unfegenerated suggestions
are seldom given anything more than
merry laugh over the folly that suggested
them. These designs all go to Europe,
specially to England, where a similar
work is carried on, but it is curious fact
that even in London the American styles
are most popular. They are less apt to
be bulky and ungraceful, and more apt to
give the English girl the air she longs for
when she says: "You Americans ali wear
your clothes so we'll"
Not only in designs for making ma
terials do we vie with our cousins on the
other side, but in fabrics we are irving to
do our best to equal them. The greatest
success has been in silks, but it must be
acknowledged that the English in cloths
and the French in silks, brocades, velvet,
pushes and soft woods far surpass u.s.
The question of how he knew what to
buy was asked the foreign representative
of the largest and finest establishment in
New York. He said: 81 am governed
by what has been, and that is the law of
the manufacturer. If for several seasons
fancy suitings have been worn-as is the
case just now-I know there will be
reaction; SO gradually buy fewer and
fewer of the fancy stuffs and more of
the plain colors. This season will see
many bizarre designs, but the really
fashionable woman chooses q costume
that consists of one shade all through,
though she will indulge in the luxury of
rich-colored, elegant silk or brocade lin
ings."
Then to the next, which was "Who
starts the fashion," he said: "Nobody
knows. 1t may be an actress at the Com
edie Franchise; it may be a leader of the
demi-monde, or it may be grande dame.
However, there is no iron law-La Mode
is abreast with the times and realizes that
women are insensibly more liberal in
their ideas and each wishes to look her
best quite irrespective of a set rule
Sometimes national happiness or sor-
row makes color, or q decoration the
vogue; undoubtedly the use of gold en-
broidery and cord can be traced to the
unfortunate Prince of Bulgaria and the
hero that he is in the eyes of women
But after all no one absolutely makes the
fashions and no one is powerful enough
to say this shall or shall not be worn.
Probably more than any other women
Sarah Bernhard and Mrs. Langtry have
made the world adopt what they wore
the one by her absolute fascination, the
other by the force of her exquisite beauty.
At her first visit to this country Bernhard
wore long, loose wrap enveloping her
figure and poke bonnet tied under her
chin. In less than week half the women
in New York were gotten up in the same
way. She made the mousquetaire glove,
which suited her slender wrist. and she
also taught women to wear flowers high
up against the throat, bringing out In this
way the Wilderness and shapeliness Of the
ear Now, since she has become Fedora,
the loose front Is most chic for tea
gown Of matinee, and from the night that