St. Paul daily globe., 1887-08-21
AUTHORS OF CUISINE.
Grand Right and Left With the
Prominent Caterers to
the Public Nav.
Some Of the Rare Qualities of
George w. Magee, the
ReStaurateur.
Eugene Mehl a Man Who Can
Tell the Age Of Wine
at Sight.
Pietro Ramaeeiotta, a Popular
Compiler of MaearoniSoup
and Oyster Fries.

George W. Magee, who keeps the
restaurant at 81 Jackson street, is as
much of a fixture in st. Paul as Del
mOnicO ever was in New York. Talk
about genius for pastry, for painting, for
music or for anything else. there is not
in the whole realm of fine arts, with all
specie of science thrown in point
where so much genius and Of such high
order is required, as there is in the hum
ble and unpretentiOUS restaurant
keeper. In New York there is but one
DelmonicO, with two million poets,
twice that number of artists in painting,
music and the fine arts generally. Out
of two million people in that city the
century has produced but one Del
mOnicO. but there had been more paint
ers. poets and sculPtOrS produced there
i'll that time than there are sands Oh
COney Island. There is one glory of
the potato and another glory of the
little red onion, and one onion
differeth from another onion
in glory. To unite the glory of the one
with the glory of the other, and these
glOries with the glory of the turnip and
the. pumpkin, the squirrel and the
prairie chicken, the fish of the sea and
the birds of the air, and so blend all
these glOries into one bouquet which
shall be heterogeneous yet homogeneous,
which shall be different yet similar, a
kind of pluribuS Unum. as Washing
ton patriot would say. this is the thing
to be accomplished by the man of
genius. and this is precisely what the
restaurant man does if he understands
his business and is the genius he ought
to be. If he is not he must get out of
the business. Magee is the st. Paul
genius. He came here ten or twelve
years ago and opened splendid reStau-
rant in the basement of the Fire aud
Marine Insurance building. on the corner
of Third ard jackson streets. Busi-
ness did not prove adequate, and
he left that place and moved up on
Third street, near WabaSha. where for
tune smiled OH him and business over
whelmed him. He then moved to the
Drake block, where he opened a gOr-
geOus place, and then he had all he
could do. One night a villainOuS fire
broke out in the building and burned
him out completely. lie then opened
up at 34l jackson street. where he now
is. Mr.. Magee is not as large man as
he would be if he was larger, but he
supports a beautiful mOuStache. a kind
of a cross between auburn and brown.
is sleek. smooth and apparently well
fed, quiet and UnObtrusive, and is in all
respects genius of the puTeSt water.
Bacigalup0 GinSeppi. who keeps the
restaurant at 80 West Third street. is an
Italian by profession. and luXuriateS in
maccarOni and vermicelli, and in the
oyster season is hard to beat either on
the raw, fried, steWed or on the half
shell.
Paul Faber, of 40 West Third ?treet,
gets up an appetiZing bill of fare. He
is one OF our oldest and most respected
German citizens. He is a very quiet
gentleman. whose face is adorned with
gorgeous black beard and mustache.
Eugene Mehl. is another great success
as a caterer to the public taste He now
runs the great restaurant at the Union
depot. He first commenced on Third
street. between Cedar and WabaSha.
and from there went up to the Hotel
Lafayette, at MinnetOnka. and when
the season closed at that point about
two years ago, he returned to st. Paul
and took the Union depot restaurant.
He is a skilled artist in the business and
is one of the best fed men in st. Paul.
He can tell to minute and quarter
the age of any bottle of wine.
1t is Pietr0 RamaciOtti that runs the
DelmOnicO restaurant at No. los East
Third street. The features of this gem
tleman betray his nationality and leave
no room to think him a Russian or a
PruSsian. He was first located on Wa
baSha street, opposite the new court
house. where for years he has been ia
nous for the exquisite style in which he
prepared bis friend oysters. and it was TO
his restaurant that ali the epicures in
town were in the habit of going. He is
a man that a good natured world treats
good naturediy.
j. Is. Baker, the proprietor of the
Dairy restaurant. is a tall. well-fOrmed
man fully six feet tall and large in pro-
portion. Upon his handsome face he
sports a muStache.
Smith IL Davidson are running the
restaurant on the northeast corner of
Fourth and Silly streets. Mr.. Smith is
tall, well formed. not heavy. and grace
full. He wears his face clean shaved
except mOuStache and two little. gen
teel streakS Of jet black whiSkerS run
ming down each side of his face. His
eyes are OF the blac1est hue.
John K. Cock is the well-known
manager CT the restaurant at 400 Jack
son street. He is the brother of j. B.
Cook, the proprietor of the omnibus
line. He has. in his day, been in good
many kinds Of business, and is some
thing of an inventor.
Charles Ahrens. keeps the res
taurant at 2S9 Robert street This is
the place formerly kept by the late Mr..
Montgomery, and it was then known as
Oyster Bay. The gentleman who now
keeps it is pleasant, agreeable business
man. and as the Robert street bridge
has been recently built, much travel
has been drawn that way that Mont
gomery never had, all of which does not
cause any regret on the part of Mr..
Ahrens.
NJ. Y. Bridges conducts the restaur-
ant at 442 Jackson street, and has no
trouble about doing a good business.
He, too. is an artist and can combine
the different glories of the most ap-
proved style.
Andrew Lauer, who runs the restaur-
ant at 325 WabaSha street, has opened
up one of the best and most successful
establishments of the kind in st. Paul.
ind is growing in public favor. He is
occasionally taken for ex-senator Win
dom.
j. E. Froiseth, who rus the restaurant
al SIC Payne avenue, is far out on the
East side of the city, but he is demon
stl,ating that he has the true genius for
the business. That avenue is rapidly
building up. and he is growing into
profitable business, which is an addi-
tional proof of genius. S. B. w.
rITT