Wichita eagle., 1887-07-07
THE CAFE DE LA PAX.

s'Night in Prison" in Paris, recall:
another event which occurred during the
same visit to the French capital in 1878.
Life in Paris, as everybody knows, is
during the pleasant season, mainly one o.
the trottOir, the parks, and the abundant
open spaces along the streets. In sunny
weather the houses are emptied and the
open air areas are filed. The Champs
Elysees, Pare Monceau, the grounds OF
the Tuilleries, the gardens Of LuXem-
bourG are black with people promenading
or seated in chairs, and who, with an i'm
mense amount Of prattle, laughter and
gossip, are making the most OF the genial
air and sky. It is in such gatherings that
one sees often some characteristic French
features which are unique and charming,
among the most attractive of which are
little family groups. Nothing can be
more pretty, picturesque and charming,
than these little eddies, so TO term them,
which are gathered here and there in the
great human sea. There are the grand
father, probably a vielle mustache, white
haired, keen eyed and occupying the post
OF honor in the only chair in the party;
the daughter, brunette, jet as to hair and
eyes, with needlework in her hands, and
her glances divided between her work, the
venerable father and two or three chill
dren that are racing and gambling IN the
vicinity. There is often a beautiful miss
seated close to the mother, whose long
lasheS droop mOdestly over her timid eyes
and whose shy glances are luminous with
virginia. innocence and exquisite mod
esty.
Not the least attractive quality Of this
kind Of a group is the profound love and
respect shown by the younger members
for the venerable figure forming the cen
trail feature of the group. The French
have among their other virtues a pervad-
ing and beautiful affection for the aged.
Unlike the American and the English, the
whitening of the hair, the bending Of the
figure and the dimming Of the eye bring
increased respect and reverence.
Ny rooms we've at st. Mande, a pretty
little suburb just outside the barriers and
bordering on the Vincennes woods. Itwas
my habit to rise early and breakfast on
cafe au lait and some delicious rolls known
as petit pain, and then write until noon
Then hearty dejeuner, and after that
trip into the city TO spend the remainder
Of the day in sight seeing or idling, as
fancy might direct. Omnibus lines, tram
ways and the belt line offered a variety Of
facilities for traversing the city. The roof
Of the omnibus or that Of the horse car
offered the most attractions on a sunny
day, as one from the height could obtain
wonderful views Of various phases of
Paris life. For long distance the track
runs along the famous Rue st. Antoine,
often the scene Of the emeutes of the pro-
letariat, and passes through the square
once occupied by the Bastille, and now
distinguished by lofty column sur
mounted by the genius Of liberty, and
finally winds along the north bank Of the
Seine to its terminus at the palace Of the
Louvre.
One lovely day in July came into the
city as usual, and as the day was quite
oppressive in its warmth | sought the cool
awnings of the noted Cafe de Ia PaiX, To-
Gated on the corner OF Boulevard des
Capucines and the Opera House square.
II is one of the most famous cafes in
Paris; it adjOinS the Grand opera build
ing, is not far from the Madeleine and Is a
continuation of several of the grander
boulevards of the city. I secured chair
at one OF the little tables on the sidewalk,
beneath the cool awning, and with sigh
Of relief that had at last reached a haven
Of rest l beckoned TO a waiting garcon
and ordered q book and a package Of
cigars. 1t is the custom in the Paris
cafes to pay when the patron leaves, and
not as each cigar or bottle of wine is de-
Gvered l had come for long stay,
which was so evident in my air that the
waiter was happy, for the longer ono sat
the larger the bill, and the more sumptu-
Gus the pourboire at the end Of the sitting.
1t was about l o'clock as blew the foam
from the initial book and applied some fire
to the end Of my first cigar.
Meanwhile | was supremely satisfied.
The beer was cool and palatable, the cigar
might have been worse, the sunlight was
bright, the streets were filed with vehi-
cles and the sidewalks crowded with
pedestrians. The thoroughfare is one Of
the most fashionable in Paris, and at all
times is filled with life, color, and infinite
variety.
1t is said that everybody of any conse-
Quence in Paris passes ae least once each
day along the boulevard on which fronts
the Cafe de Ia PaiX. Such had been my
experience during the many sunny after
noons that l had pulled and slipped be
meath the friendly awnings. isitors from
Chicago, travellers from New Zealand,
Turks. Cinnamon. Russians, people from
Africa, are certain in the course Of an
afternoon in the season 10 pass by this
favored spot. The procession Is always
one possessing infinite variety and interest.
In q magnificent carriage there whirls by
a beautiful white woman, and bv her side
her husband. as black as midnight as 10
color. and kinky as a sheep as 10 wool,
sausage Like as TO lip, and with g nose fiat
and broad like the half Of huge pear.
The bouleyaTdier swings dainuIy along,
his clothes fitting Ike the skin, his mus
tache vaXed and pointed Like needle, his
new kid gloves worn in the breast Of bis
coat so as TO display possession and save
wear, his expression one Of perfect self
satisfaction. and his glanceS at the women
of character plainly indicating: II l
don't take you along with me now, ii is
because | can always get you at any other
time l may happen to want you"
watched this flow Of the brightest and
most agreeable crowd IN civilization for
an hour or SO. and then decided 10 stretch
my legs by a little promenade TO the Made
leine snd back. Imouoned to the Carcon
who had waited on me, whose usually
duh face frightened visiblv as he contem-
plated an installment OF pourboire.
"Combien, garcon:'
.sTrente sous, m'sieu,' he responded in
veivety tones,
/ reached in my vest pocket for some
change and found none. then shot down
into the pocket in my trousers in which
carried small leathern purse There
was no purse IN response to the explora-
lion. In second l knew that was with
ont a sou. The lines on the face Of the