Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-09-03
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Fashion Brings beauty and Grace to
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~ AZ FXPOSENT or CIvIiiZATIoS-ITS EsTscI AL
IMPRESSION IN ERwE,K--sIAETLISG SUMNER
srYLEs-sENsIBLE COSTUMES FOX EARLY AUTUMN
From our own Correspondent
NEW YORK sept. ?, 1887.
This has been q season OF Infinite variety and
exceeding charm Iar IS the dressing OF women
Is concerned Whatever skill aud taste have de-
vei1ped OF sOltneSs and deI9acy OF color aud
design. seem to have been pressed into service for
The aiorniug OF the young and bedut1ful-and
those that are neither in county houses and sea-
side or mountain resorts. The unusual heat OF
the midsummer brought OUT ali the resources in
the way OF cO:ton5 and muslins, linens and foul
ards, and made our fashionable resorts more
English" than ever before b. the display OF cot
ton gowns upon the p.OMenades, and straw hats
with muslin or ribbon and Hover trimming
The infusion of ght and delicate color into
summer street dress has done much 20 break up
The neutral mOnOtOny which formerly held Us In q
sJTOlg grasp; while The absence OK wraps from
summer costumes. and the happy touches which
the Introduction Of the ''vesL" has suggested,
permit full display OF all the lightness grace, and
finish or modern artistic dress There Is nothing
now That Is convenient nothing that is pretty and
becoming, that woman cannot wear. No one
Leed De bound BY any limits, or any authority,
but those OF her own judgment, taste and length
OF purse. Daily some idea, custom. or tradition
which seemed deep-rOOted IS OVeTTuei, or some
development takes place which solves problem.
II Is not More than year since IL was dill ut 10
get a fashionable dre.sInaker TO consider the pos
sbiIitieS OF a full sleeve, or since one lady re-
marked that she, IT least, could never be brought
TO wear then; yet she is sailing about to-day In
VOluminOuS 'lessS- Of-muttol," in delicate Dattste,
with white, TOidercd CUTS, and really believes
that SIZE has 5lUayo admired them.
The yeXed question OF the corset IS being settled
In very satisfactory way; hot By getting rid OF
II. bit by varying and adaptingit todlferent needs
and temperatures For the first time IL Is possible
TO have the corset sustained without compression
and with entire absence OF any sense OF restraint.
The cOrseiette, OF little "Te5j" corset sometimes
called the 'OTeakiast' corset, Is only adapted TO
slender figures and u informal styles OF dress. but
Il IS an untold comfort Tor warm weather and Tor
house wear either In winter or summer Our cor
set makers are also beginning To exercise more
care and discrimination IN the selection OF ma
terlals and their use. Women are, themselves, re-
spoRsiOle for the Immense number Of brutal cor
SetSpuJ upon the market and baiJed to eaten the
u1yjiTy, for they choose them reaGy-made IL the
shops as thsy DO hosiery, and rarely buy two OF
III" same manufacture. trenchw0men manage
Ja1S much better. They possess nothing OF The
grace, deicscy, lShtnesS. and natural beauty OF
form which cnaracteTizeS the average American,
but they develop and preserve more symmetry
aud better heath, largely by strict attention
OF the corset from The time the girl begins 10 wear
one. \ French InOtaer would not dream OF buy
Tag corset ready made Tor her young daughter;
or 2 straight, corded, infexible waist. she takes
the girl 10 cOrSetiere and has her measured. Her
figure is noc compressed IL is directed. Lungs,
heart, muscles are allowed fun play. her corset
Is IN aid to her development, not a hindrance.
The girl grows up realizing the necessity for pill
ancy and elegance and accuracy In her corset; II
sic rs 10 secure elegance and distinction OF dress
aid appearance. But you never see a spider waist
emphasized by an exaggerated tournure upon
French Woman. There are now many kinds OF Thin
and flexible eorsets and CorSet-waiSts which have
more or less claim 10 attention; but they ought
never 10 be taken at random corseiette or
breakfast waist, does not need lifting; but regu-
Lar corset Tor dress purposes or over which street
dresses and costumes are TO be worn, should be
made and lifted like dress bodice. from actual
measurement by skilled maker. Of material fine
and nrm yet yielding and sort 10 the touch.
SUMNER DlISTINESS-
August has been a delightful month in which to
display toilettes. which show brighter contrasts
and greater deucacy of tint than are usually seen
upon city streets The rains and heat OF July gave
place TO clearnesS and GOODNESS OF atmosphere
which carried no touch OF chillineSS and demanded
no warmth OF clothing, but only brought out what
ever OF beauty it possessed and made II more
pleasurable. We probably require q little expe-
rience of the pr -iittve man and woman; their
uarAneSS, their '5eneSS, their sayagery, their
ignorance OF CT mess and utter absence OF
beauty to realize ny adequate manner the dis
tance which l1es b cen barbarism and civtliza-
ZION, and how imp ant an adjunct and corolIory
clothes are OF ciY4,LdtiOn. II can once realize
this We shall know Rst reforms can never carry
the cultivated man and woman backward; that
the tendency is To greater refinement, q wider
adaptation more Specialized function and fitness
forms or objects that go TO make up that
wonderful product OF the nineteenth century,
a well-ored and thoroughly equipped man or
woman. Every day are becoming cleaner.
Every day IL is becoming more possible to live in
an atmosphere OF purity and daintiness, which
even Few years ago would have been deemed
Utopian; and every day marks general advance
toward the exquisite fnenesS and delicacy which
Is even low recognized as the hall marx OF nigh
breeding. This refinement expresses itself par
tlculariy IN the care expended upon underwear;
In its texture perfection OF form, beauty OF work.
manShip, avoidance OF the uneVenneSS even OF
seams, the wrought edges with worked eyeletS for
narrow, pale PINK, canary or ream-colOred rib
cersklrcS OF cream, sapphire blue or pale pink su-
ran are pt tosether with embroidery silk and en-
Droidery s5-Jcnes, and bOrdered with lovely lace,
though Er ever sees IL save the Wearer'S.
White, ia ne soft tintS known TO modern man.
ufacture, tAa which have quite replaced the DID,
dead chtl,-s ute surfaces. is now capable OF the
most diversified as well as the daintiest effects
and forms IN different materials and fabrics
the entire wardrobe OF some fastidious
young ladies', so far as gowns are concerned.
Rooms are upholstered in white and white and
gold, the feet sinking into white velvet the walls
covered w;;h folds or soft uted silk the furniture
enameled In white and gold like panels. All this
Is not exactly suited TO daily working wear ac-
eording 70 the popular idea of it. because We are
work. But II Is becoming daily more possible TO
srFy the elements Of refinement and beauty with
IS everywhere Machinery Is doing the dirty
WJrk, the hard, grimy work, the digging and the
wing, the spinning AID the weaving, even the
king and the mendiDg We could most OF us
g. much inner. more delicate than we are II we
F'Te accustomed 10 II, ard not so h2bituated 10
thinking that a certain homsliness, and even
even inseparable, from common life. But we are
Eraduay getting rid OF this idea, and the passing
rtss-t U ttr ASHES, The recognition
@ha ACQUISITION Of beauty and genteness, grace
"a sweetness as part Of our common Inheritance,
as clemens % lie, and liberty, and happiness
Wlicn can oe had FOR the cultivation will create a
= II Transformation, and make general that
which Is now rare and exceptional.
LATE SUMNER sTYIE1
e often quite startling they appear ON CITY
ssreets. Coming in from the country, or from gay
Altering places, ladies, and especially pouay
ladies', viii stake look" at the old faiilia places
II attire that q few weeks later, when they have
been brought down again 10 the conventional
standard, would seem astounding II worn by
Others one OF these costumes was OF rOSe-cOloreci
were pulled. ana the hiSh hat was OF rose-colore,
tulle, ornameEJed with white chrySanthemuIrs
Another striking dress was all white, mIxtureo
Six and wool, With stripes, bands and braces the
latter crossed upon the back OF petunia color,d
RIBBON, orOcaCed IN flower pattern UPON the
ground color The hat was drawn white net
trimmed VIII petunia ribbon.
Some really good combinations have appeared
In pongee Will striped silk and six canvas also
pongee Is Its characteresS surface and generally
unbecOmlnS color. IL Is, however, cool durable
AID Clean. and Is made erectiye and becoming by
nnely -pl&lSsl eGge, pointed cleInisetJe and
striped panel or or0wa velvet or green and RED
striped six. with waist folds side sash 10 match
One OF these, edged with stripe. was accompanied
Dy sailor hat with band TO match, and mad IuIl
sleeves with deep Gun Of the stripe.
Very pretty and EOvel-lcOking dresses ara or
fswn-eoiored alpaca, with pointed vest set inside
crossed folds or the alpaca. and rolled collar OF
Tie trimming is a lire OF twisted gold cord which
edges tls velvet