The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-08-14
MALE DRESS REFORM.
New York Men Who Discard Vests and Wear
Sashes Around Their Waists.

Special TO the Indianapolis Journal
NEW YORK, Aug. 13-Apparently the men or
New York have determined to throw fashion to
the winds this summer and settle down to honest
comfort The boom was begun among the
swells, those who can do anything in the matter
of dress and be pretty sure to have large fol-
lowing. The attack was first made upon the
waistcoas, and in the early part OF sne summer
wealthy young men began to parade the streets
without this article Of clothing, hitherto deemed
necessary.
The coats were worn SYSTEMATICALLY open and
revealed plated full dress-shirts of immaculate
Wilderness, in which nestled three plain gold
studs. The lower half of fourin-hand necktie
was gracefully tucked in the front opening OF
the shirt not TO hide the topmost stud. The
result was not unseemly.
New Workers have great prejudice against
anything that lacks style. The majority of the
men would rather have their heads severed from
their shoulders on the sharp edges of a four-inch
standing collar than be consideref behind the
fashion. They don't object to sweltering behind
the stiffest shirt bosom. but would be Mortified
at single glance of dsapproval from those per-
who are known to lead the styles. They
are always ready, however, to adopt any new
idea that is graceful and has the sanction of So
ciety. The shirt bosom therefore came into
prominence and the waistcoat disappeared.
The next move toward comfort met with
strong resistance. The leaders were not unani-
NOUS And besides, it blow at the most
sacred part of mans attire-the white shirt it
self In its place flannel shirt was to be
worn. 1t took a long time to convince small
minority that with the thermometer fiuctuating
between 90o and 1909 in the shade the starch in
a collar and shirt bosom would not remain firm
for more than three hours; and that flannel
shirt was therefore much more beautiful, not TO
say convenient. than the boiled shirt
The leaders of the crusade were determined,
however and the new garment slowly won favor
1t would hardly have been q thorough success
even then had not some of the writers for the
press lent their aid. One morning the Sun
printed letter from an anonymous writer.
showing the advantages of the flannel shirt and
contrasting 1t favorably with limp linen collar
and shirt bosom. All the papers took it up and
doomed it editorialy. Hardly day passed
without some sheer at the billed" shirt.
The spectacle of with handkerchief
stuffed inside his collar to keep the persplration
from spelling its stiffness. was held to deris-
ion. People laughed, admitted the corn and the
flannel shirt was a success. 1t became all the
rage, and timid persons who still chung TO the
white shirt were looked upon with pity by the
enthusiastic wearers of the flannel shirt. The
stores that supply mems apparel could not meet
the sudden demand. Tailors were kept busy
cutting them They were made in all colors and
patterns, and in a short time the most dignifed
and the most frivolous Of mon moved about in
and comfort.
The style has kept up and is continually grow
ing, and the movement towards comfort if the
hot weather continues is likely to be pushed to
the extreme. Already the stores are beginning
to display new inventions IN hats and coats and
trousers of white flannel. pongee silk and other
airy materials are ostentatiously pushed TO the
foreground in the show windows The latest
notion, though, and one that has not been OBJ
served outside of the upper ten, is the cummera
bund.
One night last week / attended hop at
fashionable hotel in of the near by summer
resorts Many of the exclusive young OF
New York society were present was surprised
to that they waistcoats. In their
stead was what looked Ike strip of bed
Sheet wound around the middle Of the body 1t
about fourteen inches wide and contained
number of creases and folds apparently the
suit of accident and not of design. Upon closer
scrutiny observed that the material was similar
to pongee silk and was quite becoming.
1t was the cummerabund, and, from present
result in entirely displacing the full dress
during the summer. It is a strip of India silk
from which it derives its name, somewhat over
two yards in length and of the width mentioned.
This is wound around the middle of the body in
such manner as to conceal the junction of the
shirt with the trousers and also to hide the
penders. The ends are tucked under out of
sight.
1t is much cooler than a waistcoat and does
not touch the upper part of the body. They
worn in solid colors, either dark light. The
cost OF one ready made ranges from SIS to $25,
but the silk itself be bought and satisfactor-
lily arranged for one quarter of that sum.
CHARLES J. RoSEBAULT