Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-12-03

PROM Our Own Correspondent.
NEW YORK, Dec. 9, 1887.
The flush OF the year." the glowing color, the
ripe abundance which has gone out OF forest and
neId has come TO the town for the season and SET
tlsd down uron the thronss Ia the streets, in the
shops which are running over with beautiful
Christmas wares and In gay drawing rooms which
are restored 70 their usual supremacy by the
presence OF portieres and and the
ending stream OF human Life. There Is no reason
here, apparently. for any OF the Ills 20 which flesh
Is heir. Why should there be Ills where there are
so many possibilities OF happinessf II makes one
oesire-intensely-youth, strength, beauty; the
power 70 possess the good things and impatient OF
age, weakness disease, NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
isEs and helps Others 10 fan, OF attainment.
FASHIONABLE FURs.
Fashion Is many sided; but this winter styles
show great deal OF decorative work upon smooth
laced cloth, es distinguished from the homespuns,
dlagonals, ard tufted cloths OF previous seasons,
and an epidemic OF fur-specally for trimming
IN asSs ses 9, mum and boa AL Xmas Of fur are
pack, white. blue, silver, and gray; and dividing
the honors With these are the black lynx, which
SUITS the e-aged and respectable better than
the lighter and more dressy furs.
Cry fox IL probably the most popular, a. 10 10
effective and strong at a very moderate price; but
ial and better adapted TO velvet or the inner quail
Beaver Is less fashionable than for some years
past; though-like otter-lt is always more or less
used for trimming for nuns for collars, and for
capea But only the haired furs are suited 10
the boa; and as the boa Is the rage OF the season.
the long-haired fox and lynx furs gain In conse-
quence-
The nchu collar which IL the novelty tn England,
Is not made by American furrfers and can only De
obtained through importing houses like Redfern'A
Tne latest appiicalion Of ne boa is TO tea gowns
and house dresses. black fox boa enctrcles the
throat and extends down the front OF tea gown
af xh onrxfar alb lima Of "a or
inserted at the side seams and between the plaits
the back OF the demftrain. ft is part OF the be-
ginning OF the Russian fever which we are catch
Ing and which has revived the redingote and gives
FUR caps, coats and Jackets as well as Russian
aprons and tabeclOths.
The long cloak5 and coats Of mink and seal are
pot now IN demand except for very cold regions.
In 80 temperate a climate as that OF New York,
where the thermometer rarely goes below zero and
only occasionally approaches that suggestive
limit long fur garments are an intolerable burden
u large part OF the season, and always render the
conceal handsome dresses and have frequently
been laid aside IN disgust by those who have pinned
The long cloak this year Is cloth or striped wool
trimmed with fur. The all-fur garments are a
small, close-nttlng jacket or small visite wrap,
ends and tails In 'front.' The jackets are made In
seal or Persian lamb, black grey; the visites In
seal only. The short, tightly-curled hair o1fhe
Persian lamb adapts 10 20 jackets, caps and ofnl-
Iings for girls and also for children. II is very
youthful looking. specially In white and grey; In
White lambs wool forms a very. coQuettish I'm
ish 70 SOFT grey mot steel grey suits and nothing
can be imagined more dainty than costume Of
cloth turoan OF white lambs wool; the mum made
10 match but tied with bow OF wfde grey gros-
Rrs ss ss sss sduc.d in price,
though still In demand for evening wraps BY ladies
who need the protection OF such garment They
Fashionable women do not wear them; they have
found substitute In the long cloak with sleeves
s ta 40 bus one - no. , 10 use
convenient, and comfortable.
Before leaving the subject Of furs IL ought to be
sally trimmed, Is not decorated by the furrfers.
On the contrary. the old-fsshioned cords and tss-
seis, even the edge OF six or satin lining have dis
appeared A facing OF fur upon the ends Is now
carried far Into the interior, so that no Inning Is
visible; and II Is the owners who add the band and
ing the shade Of the fur either In moire SATIN or
gros grain.
DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF WINTER COSTUMES.
The revival Of the redingore is one OF the most
marked pecullarities Of the winter styles. 1t
simply emphasizes the double dress effect which
and costumes for several years II Is rather
severe style. but emnenty suited TO winter fabrics
and winter wear, 70 cloth and other woolens with
fur finish IL Is also In accord with the general
direction which other dress designs take; with the
long lines. the straight or diagonal effects, the
absence OF eunched-up draper1es and the reduction
Toomuch emphasis cannot be placed on this last
fact for t Is the interest OF trade TO keep up Iu-
sions IN regard 10 certain kinds OF bustles and
dress distenderA which occupy the market and
there are those who lend themselves to deception
through not knowing, or for more selfish reasons
But In this nineteenth century u is a matter OF
reproach 70 all women that some Will continue 70
make distortions and caricatureS OF themselves,
that they are subjects OF rdic lie they walk in
the street TO idle men who stand on the corners or
look out OF club windows The true fashion OF this
season demands no such sacrifice OF dignity and
aaal
graceful, and becoming, and the exaggerated
hump represents II little brazen exposure Of
bust does the elegance OF the approved evening
dress.
The two most popular modes OF trimming are
braiding and edges or borderings OF fur. Both are
available BY very moderate purses. for braiding Is
now executed by machinery 50 cheaply and so ef-
1ectiveIy that the cost OF what seems TO be hand
some braided Jacket Is less than a palmer one OF
fne cloth and better interior finish.
Up TO a very short time since 'knifer braiding-
that Is, braiding with narrow braid set on edge,
instead OF nat-had TO be done by hand; now
there Is a sewing machine attachment-a woman's
1nventiOn-wnich executes IL perfectly, and the
with designs OF varying degrees Of merit and con-
ventiOn6nty. The best and most suitable are full
az curves and nbers. which run into or about each
are those blocked In large, distinct figures which
have no reference 20 the outlines OF the form
,obraded raents and Costumes as well as SPAIN pIain
ones: but II does not look well upon 'aii over
braided Jacket, and Is also unnecessary as orna-
III.
ming. Is specially useful 20 the economical. who
Can get more % stylish effect out OF q yard OF
back or grey fur put on as standing collar and
Guns OF jacket, than anything else at the price;
besides having something that Nils the place at
the throat Of fur collar or boa and protects the
wrists
A most comfortable and effective winter OUTFIT
consists OF 1ersey-ntting cloth garment with
line OF fur round the throat and crossing the front
ulsgonally, Goth turDan-the crown laid IN folds
and rather conical In form-fur band for brim and
Of fur 10 match the trimming. Fifteen 20 twenty
dollars win cover the entire cost n the making is
done oy the expert fingers OF the wearer and the
materials will be better than garments that are
bought for double the amount
Materials arr now very cheap and very good. IL
d the Taking that brings the cost up 10 extraya
giant proportions. Dressmaking to-day T. one OF
the most profitable Of occupations. or would be- IN
the cost OF living In large cities did not absorb the
prOf1tS, dreSsinakers who charge high prices
usually nndlng it necessary 70 pay high rents and
live In fashionable neighOOrhOOds
The large sleeves are not employed for street
been relegated to little girls and misses. or the
less formal house dress. There has been an at
tempt 10 revive the straight open sleeve with
coat sleeve underneath, Of the sixteenth century:
and also the long pointed and "angei" sleeve
But IL begins 10 De understood that Won cannon
take part OF an old Characteristic or historic
design and hitch 10 on 10 a MODERN ntnefeenfh
century. three-quarter body without an appear
ance OF incOngruity; and that II you want To
make picture you must make &c harmonious in
It, details 10 will b. valusless. We scOn al con-
NsntlOns and conyentiOnalism, but what we owe
o. them In preserving u from fOli!es, gaucheries
n and