The Memphis appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1886-1890, 1887-08-28
THE FASHIONS.

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corsages cut with bishop sleeves.
This shows Q straight band going
around the neck made Of hemstiched
silk muslin. In front hang two
straight cravat ends likewise
adorned. Palmer cravats are made
Of bishops lawn simply hemmed, the
ends finished with frills OF Italian
lace.
Bodies which have the sides pro-
longed into pencils that are allowed
to fall loose from the waist will be a
feature of costumes again. this
autumn. The style is far too be-
coming to women OF stout figure to be
given up. These panels are in fact
very graceful upon most women, aud
upon new gowns will be decorated
and lined in various novel ways.
A new, rather bizarre hat, called
the "Viyandiere," has the immense
ly wide brim turned up very high on
one side, and pressed close to the
ear on the other. 1t thus arises in
sort Of gothic shape over the fore
head and hair. A garland of dan
delion flowers, ragged sailor, scarlet
poppies, field thistles and fern fronds
wreathes the crown OF the hat, which
Is becoming style for dark, gypsy
like face.
Very rich and beautiful are some
Of the novel striped fabrics which
now adorn the shelves and counters
OF the leading importing houses; for
instance, a surface Of heavy corded
silk, brocaded with rich gay Pompa-
dour designs, with very wide velvet
stripe alternating. One attractive
pattern has a stripe of dark terra
Gotta velvet, with q narrow one of
pale tan-colored corded silk, en-
bossed with terra Gotta velvet flow.
ers, surrounded with dark moss
green velvet leaves, shading to gold
at their edges. One of the same de-
sign In strawberry shades is also very
handsome. A dark olive velvet, with
stripe OF paler olive faille, figured
with shaded green leaves and scarlet
star flowers in velvet, and another
stripe in plush and Bengaline in
harmonizing shades Of gray, are
equally effective and expensive pat
terms.
Wide Stuart, Byron, and Vandy Ike
collars, turning we'll over upon to
dresS and made Of W lite linen, briar-
stitched or hemstitcheJ, are worn
by stylish young ladies' midsummer
toilets Of s ale pink, lilac, and other
delicate tints, in batiste, chamber,
bingham, and sateen. Toe Vandyke
collars, as their name betokens, open
low in V-shape, disclosing a bit Of
the throat. With all these collars
are worn neckties Of Roman ribbon,
or medium wide scarfs of null edge
at the ends with Valenciennes
lace. or those Of dotted or
striped India silk. The scarf passes
under the collar aud it is tied in
a soft, easy bow in front
White silk muslin gowns, striped
with wide insertions of rich lace,
with broad MORE sashes, and dainty
tullc berthas draped with lace, are
among the list Of imported dresses
for debutantes and bridesmaids. A
high pointed French bodice, laced
behind, is much used for surah
dresses, with Fedora scarf Of fancy
lace draped full over the front OF the
corsage with immense satin bows
and ends starting under the point in
the back. A dog collar OF pearls on
velvet is fastened around the throat,
or there is q double row OF Roman
pearls forming a close necklace.
Pink or pale green MORE ribbon Of
narrow width, fancy velvet ribbon,
white plush and satin-striped faillC
are fabrics used TO form panels
vests aud other trimmings for white
wool dresses for girls in their teens
Sailor hats in dark dyed straw, and
felt in white aud colors are likely
to be as popular during the autumn
as they have been all summer.
Women Of nearly every age have
worn these hats, and, except their
jaunty title, there is not hing 10 be
said against their wear by those past
their first youth. Nothing could be
more simple and unpretentious than
a hat wi Il 4 straight, uncompromis'
ing brim and severe, upright
crown, the entire hat without dent
or fancy roll, aud trimmed Away.
with a plain, fat band aud a few
simple loops OF ribbon. These hat,
are really less fancy aud youthful
than the picturesque Leghorn, with
its dentod brim aud wreath o! gsj
flowers, which is adopted by ever
gray haired dowagers, both here anC
abroad, in fashionable quarters
There are many women who would
like the shade and comfort anC
simple fashion Of the larger style o.
sailor hat, ha 1 il only another name
for instance, the Quaker" III,
Puritan" or the "Penn."
Charming autumn costumes IL
steel gray, plumb, aud dove color ar,
teing made Of corded silk lndiI
cashmere, combined with velvet ant
camels' hair cloth, canvas anC
vigoguc made up with gray moire o
uctpcI UNIT Ut tIlnliucu Win FAl
looms or gimps Of iine gray silk cord
Some OF the gowns are made up II
Diroctoirc style. the sleeves puleS
aud the bodice trimmed with wild,
rcyers on the coat-basque, and turn
ing away over 4 long waistcoat o
gray velvet, moire, or gray silk mus
lin laid in close pleats. One stylish
costume Is made Of nuns gray IndiI
cashmere. combined with gray velvet
trimmed with white and silver gimp
The cashmere is arranged as lon
polonaise, opening 10 the waist q
each side, and also up the back
There is a vest and a V insertion
down the back OF the bodice, mad
Of the velvet aud gimp. To wca
with this costume is hat OF cream
white felt, trimmed with 4 band Q
white and silver simp, aud a bcauti
iul gray aud white bird, with long
stiff wings set upright upon tn
front Of the hat-that IL, II the bar