Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1887-09-18
FALL GOWNS.
y.sHroxABLE Few YORK DOTS RoR
THE LADIES.
Street presses-How Made-Matsrials-A
Question Of Dress Refcrm-IndoOr
Costumes-Jerseys.
,co,resropdepce OF the Richmond Dispatch.

sion that summer has gone, at least for
1857. and that the proper time has ar
rived for the discussion oil iall gowns,
and only fall gowns.
Most of the street-dresses shown at
the present time are rather plain in
cut and materials, and they do not es-
sentially differ from those Of the past
wear. except in the one particular that
.nlestrops a e not very often seen. Vest
effects are preferred.
Tie materials chosen are for the
most part heavier than usual. Many
of them approach or equal mems fab
ries in texture, and mixed goods are
preferred.
Combinations are frequent, in fact
almost the Idle, but few PLAIN dresses
are seen eniirely'compO~ed of u single
material and made with Spartan sim
plicity. There is, however, despite this,
something very stylish about some OF
these gowns.
Here is oneof them It is of rongh,
fne-plaided material, which Is uniform
throughout, with the exception OF
tiny vest of velvet, which is less than
the ordinary chemiSette in size, and
surrounded by a pair of lapels similar
TO those on a gentleman's coat. The
basque is long in front, and flstens by
a row of small covered buttons. Behind
it has short position back, setting
well III at the waist. The drapery In
front is short, pointed, and heavily lald
Behind, the long square straight folds
are so caught up near the hips az to
double on themselves, making the mass
Of drapery at this point so large and
thick that the amount OF artificial tour
atro required is small.
The side folds are buttOned to the
skirt with huge cloth buttons, extend
ing on each side from the hip to the
bottom of the skirt. The latter is
killed.
A walking-drcss OF rather lighter
description IS Of very light woollcn
material, combined with MORE. The
latter forms the skirt, together with the
collar and q small, square plastronupon
the waist Of the pOIonaise. The lat
ter fastens from the right shoulder
TO the left hip. From this point
the skirt Of the polonaise falls aud
divides a few inches below over
the MORE skirt below. In front 1t
reaches to the ground. The drlperies
behind are light and graceful
JERSEYS bid fair to lie rs popular This
year as in previous seasons. They arr
shown III all colors and vlriouslg
trimmed. In choosing q jers y, IT 10
be Of any dark color or black, see that
il is very close and firm of texture, for
otherwise the most unpleasant reyeia-
tions Of the underwear worn beneath
must he anticipated.
Some OF the moro expensive Jerseys
are trimmed with jet and coi0red pas
scmcnt res, and it IS surprising to see
bow well these rather heavy trimmings
appear upon such light garments.
a very peculiar walking costume,
which carries IT'S back % few years, has
appeared this season, and it is trimmed
exclusively 10y having the edges
pinkod! The basque is short and
rounded in shape and opens Up0a "A
vest OF velvet, the edges OF the basque
presenting throughout tbs o.d-sasb-
toned surated appearance The side
edge Of the t0Ji,cr is adorned in the
same manner, and, as it has for back
ground the plain velvet skirt, 1t SHOWS
with perfect distinctncss, rs does the
back drapery, which is jaboied down
the side, every edge being ornamented
in the same' way as the rest OF the
dress. Besides these, there is q band
Of the woollen material run rs Dor
der along the edge Of the velvet skirt,
and this, upon the upper edge, IS
pinled also. 1t is a very odd pr0duc-
ton upon the whole.
Avery interesting question which has
been frequently propounded by dress
reiormcrs, and others who believe IN
hoalthful clothing for women, is this
Are not women's clothes too heavy for
them TO support And It has been an
swcred in the Affirmative. Now little
experiment, the results Of which were
recently set forth in the New York YHh,
has recently been performed, chiefly in
lest, which seems to give another color
TO this question. A lady and a gentle
man on a wager asccrtaincd the respect
i've weights OF their clothing in ounces,
and before previously appointed
iudges-both ladies and gentlemen.
Every item Of clothing worn at the
tine was mcludcd-underwear aad
shoes-and, indeed, even the collars
and cuffs. The result was the finding
Of q balance Of cighty.onc ounces in
flyo Of tie gentleman. His clothes
exceeded in weight those of his lady
competitor BY just that amount. OF
course We have to take into consdcra-
Ton the fact that the test was made du-
ling the summer season, when the LAZY
wore gaImoIts of teathorlikc weight
but as the same conditions applied to
her liyal, this fact has at most bu. little
significance
II is a trial which might well be re-
peated-under the auspices OF Dress
Reform.
A charming indoor costume for the
season is in two light woollen fabric3-
enc plain aud one figured. The latter
composs tho short fall drapely ria
front. ard toe square yoke which folms
toe clief trimming upon the basque
Ibo sbnt Is Ailted. with q plain p.nel
IN front Bows of satin IiOGou RE
disposed uron the appropriate portions
OF the toilet, and the edges Of the
haequo ae trimmed with fine braid
stitched in very pretty, il suitable.
tanning design. G. II. NJ.