Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-10-29
THE PANORAMA OF FASHION.
brilliant Autumn Displays In New
York. while Quiet styles Reign IN
Paris.

York, while Quiet styles Reign In
Paris.
REVlvAL OF MANUFACTURED TRIMMINGS AND DE-
CADENCE OF BEADs-PANCrRs IN FURs-CARAcAL,
rHK NEW EXTRAORDINARILY DEVICES FOR PRETTY
GIRLS, ETC.
from our own Correspondent
NEW YORK. october %.
Fashion would not be fashion II It did not keep
constantly changing, and though IL seems TO move
In circle, yet the revolving panorama always
manages TO throw up something different and new
In the way OF combinations Manufactured TRIM
mings have been ignored for the past five years
characterization has been executed with pieces Of
contrasting material and effects obtained BY
putting two or more fabrics colors and shades Of
color together. Evidently trimming manufactu-
rers came 70 a determination TO make an effort ana
put stop 70 this state Of things Passementerfes
have been revived, and appear In an infinite va
nety Of ingenious and effective designs, that are
formed Ike embroidery OF wheel patterns, IAN
shapes q network OF braids, interlocked and fas-
tened with minute buttons. or lattice work, with
border representing frame.
some styles are finished with heavy fringeS with
beads or tinselled threads intermiIed; others
balls, Ike Irvine, hanging by twist OF the same
In Irregular pendants Military cords and aigui-
inner Ornaments, which show lace-like stitches,
and are IN fact reproduction In black SIX OF the
cotton cord and tape, put together with lace or
cites a few years ago, and which made for the
time being a new and much lauded industry. II Is
fact, indeed that the deft hands which were
thrown out OF employment by the sudden collapse
OF these "hand- lingerie are now engaged In
the effort TO rehabilitate the passementery form
of dress trimmings; so that with hundreds II Is
not question of fashion, but OF bread and butter.
The Improvement In them shows, perhaps, expe-
are no longer enlarged buttons, "pIaaues,S
palm leaves. and coarse trefon patterns,
Sre s and nehuDiise trimmings The military
braid, cord and tags are arranged In sets OF fes-
toous for the SKIRT as well as the bodice the group
OF three cable cords beginning at the thro u, on
the night OF the bodice, and terminating the left
on the top OF the shoulder over the arm. The
are very expensive when they are of ali silk aud
in the new lace and embroidery patterns; for as
much work Is expended upon them as upon hand
that the designs are less original and exclusive,
more conventional, and that materials, such as
cords. braids, wire for wheels), small buttons and
the Ike, are brought into play 10 aid stitches.
Lol TIE POOR BEAD.
With the revival OF these dull, black gimps and
passementerfes, beads and beaded trimmings re-
tire into the background The reign OF glitter has
perhaps been long enough. Beads have certainly
aborgines. But then great skill has been
brought TO bear upon their manipulation and ar
Iansemsnt Nor are they yet quite displaced
Great efforts are naturally made TO get nd OF the
costly beaded trimmings still on hand; and for
SNOWY purposes there is nothing that can take
their place. The large DESIGNS however, and large
beaded effects have quite disappeared. Black Jet
and white Jet are used less In patterns than 10
cover a surface OF lace sa in or velvet with a sort
OF gold or silver dust, the elements OF which can
only he detected upon close examination.
This also Is true OF the use OF colored beads and
unseled effects upon costly materials. They are
shOwered In minute patterns or grouped In small
triangular diamond pointed figures. and some
Tines cover skirt as small ARTIFICIAL flowers have
some skirts OF white or black tulle for two seasons
PAST.
Ia Paris these pretty effects In small Jets upon
tulle are arranged In three colors upon black,
ruby. green. and brown or amber and used for bon
neIs, panels, corsage trimming and for the trans
parent fan, which Is Just now the Indispensable
accompaniment Of q tuie bonnet. These en-
broiieries are executed by hand They are not
always done In beads. They are softer, and pre-
ferrei by many In silk or shaded chenille, partlcu-
larry by those who are tired OF beads
But really, the great merit OF the fashions to-
day Is that you can choose Tor yourself ana make
fashion as well As another, II you can succeed In
working out an attractive idea. The worst feature
OF the passementery trimmings Is that beng raised
from the surface and usually composed OF lighter
materials than the b.dy upon which they are
placed. they soon grow shabby and prove a poor
investment of the additional cost OF the dress or
mantle upon which they are placed. Still the cost
does not differ much. whet her trimmings are made
only put on: the whole cost amounts 10 much
the aggregate amount OF dressmakers' and dry
goods bills
TIE AUTUMN DISPLAYS
made by the great 9th avenue houses give the i'm
aires. The costumes on exhibition on the occasion
OF the .Openings~-nmited now 10 this quarter-or
TO q celebration OF enlargement Of premises, were
marked at prices ranging from $50 10 800, and
no imported dress could be found under the first
price.
simple gowns Of WOOL with velvet panels and
mountings, and silk lining were s1S5. The most
charming dress OF the whole seasons showing was
an evening gown In cream satin duchesSe BY
ROuzeaud: the ornaEentation. most refined and
beautifully executed embroidery upon the itch
fabric In various shades OF silk with gold and
silver thread introduced The most snowy was a
combination OF bright yellow peuu de s0ie with
yellow brocaded flowers with green stems tied In
natural bouquets upon a white ground 10 was
dress thal would need no telephone TO speak Tor it
for II would herald itself Throughout the world
This was the dress for which $50 was asked; but
one could not Imagine that that sum could induce
II Is a marvel, however, who buys all the costly
things that are shown, and more of marvel when
sorted 70 10 attract custom and the frantic eager
ness OF the crowds OF women-shoppers 10 obtain a
bargain In an otherwise nearly empty store,
ter which contained pieces OF figured, cotton
backed velvet or velveteen, In common colors, re-
have been unstable at any price; but. announced
as a bdrga ain, 10 drew eager, anxious throngs. who
stood in massed rows. and bought the 'six yards"
which was the shrewd limit made 10 everyone's
purchase, without looking, or being able to touch
the goods, except as IL was handed over tne
traction. Zola mas painted nothing worse than
this as feature OF modern shopping.
TIE PARTISAN STYLES
as seen IN PARIS are very quiet this season. Un-
fortunately we get our ideas from dresses prepared
In Paris for our stage, constructed for the express
purpose OF ''out-Heroding Heroi.r The effect OF
wardrobe Is discounted In the case OF some ac-
uesses, and Is an important, perhaps the most i'm
portant, part OF their stock In trade. Girls rave
over n, women In boardins -hOuses talk about &c
and crowd the matinee performances TO see it It
Is well known by managers that the ''social ele-
nrnt" In tneater parties and those who usually
compose them care little for play, know nothing
about acting do not want 10 be Interested or even
amused for II Is not .the thing" 10 laugh or be In
terested In anything but oneself and clothes; and
clothes therefore, and a ngure 10 exhibit them,
are Indispensable elements OF a society success on
tie stage or on IT, As a lady said the other day
with perfect gravity and totally unconscious
irony, Dress Is everything
walking up Broadway the other day with o lady
abroad, she remarked with astonishment upon the
general size OF the tournure. the exaggerated shelf
u formed at the back OF the skirt, and the pro-
ored autumn gowns OF wool displayed huge sleeves
tied In above and below the elbow with velvet and
designs were paraded on the street only suitable 10
the dressing-roora or the boudor. This Is the re-
nection Of the footllghts from a standpoint, IL Is
true, which does not represent either the best OF
the stage OF the best OF society, but IL Is the ele-
lnent which Is popularity supposed TO stand for
both, which Is the most talked about, and largely
Nils the society columns OF the newspapers. In
the mean time the majority OF women stu continue