Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-04-02

Fashions and Eancies for the Halcyon
Gays OF Spring.

TR RENAISSANCE OF BEAUTY IN DRESS FROM
MEDIEVAL U6LINEsS-RoYAL LADIES AS PRACTICAL
pRE'ss-AAxERs-THE SPRING BoNNEr-HoME-NApE
COSTUMES. ETC
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, April I.
There are beautiful possibilities In the designs oil
lie present season for those who have the taste,
VIII and power to select and discriminate from the
CONFUSION OF divergent, ignorant and experimental
Meas The changes are principally In detail, and
tAe most OF them in the direction of REVEALS; but
they are reviyalS OF the useful sensible and prac-
tical sort. IL Is almost impossible Row to main-
Ialn-for any considerable length of time-a
fashion which is only pure folly or results in
hurtful distortion. Dress. as q whole. has made
enormous strides towards honesty and freedom
from exaggeration since the days OF cages and
iarthingaies, paint and hair powder, pOmatum
and patches; heels like stills, and corsets which
lnclosed the body like a wood-and-metal wise.
outer clothing for warmth and comfort was not
possible In those days, for IL 1t had been made 1t
could not have reached the body and inner
CLOTHING, for warmth had not then been thought
necessary for women.
We owe great deal OF the encouragement which
practical ideas have received To the Singular good
sense and practical, working lives OF the women Of
the CHerent royalties OF the world, particularly
those Of England, Germany, Belgium, and ROu-
mania All these ladies are publicly and actively
III cOucdIiOnal ana pnlisln-
thropic work; not as an occasional whim or
caprice, but as pursuits and part OF the duties OF
their lives. There is not one who makes busi-
neSs OF dress, who carries fashion TO its height,
who leads exaggeratiOns or stands as the repre-
sentative OF expensive personal tastes and fash
fonable frvolty. Their habits and expenditures
seemed proverbially marked by moderation and
good sense; the exception being In the cases where
they are bound by the tradition OF courts and un-
written social laws, and not at times or seasons
under their own control
1t is impossible to estimate the value to the
side OF natural truthful, modest, everyday life,
or the disastrous result OF the opposite especially
In our day. when the personal acts the great are
made a matter or daily public record and ihdi-
vidual example, planted over the wide world by
the increasing revolutions OF the printing presses
Many OF these women would be distinguished
anywhere, and are rather suppressed than other
wise By the claims and eXigencies Of an exalted
position This is something which should be
taken into account, for the effect is strong and de-
terminate In controlling the current OF dress and
fashion and setting IL in even channels.
THE SPRING BONNET
has not changed greatly In shape, often not at ALL
but IL Is more uniformly OF straw, and IL has re-
turned 10 Its old loves and Is trimmed almost excu-
sively with picot-edged ribbon and flowers For
several SEASONS past materials, such as fanciful
gauzeS, tinSelied stuffs, brocades square handker
been used for hat and bonnet trimming TO the ex-
eiusion OF ribbons; and feathers have Obiiterated
flowers.
Last spring there was a change but this year it
Is complete. The Old stock has been worked of
and the new Is OF quite different character. The
Turkish stripes, the gold and silver powder, the
tinSelled effects have disappeared The ribbons
are generally Solid with pretty edges: the flowers
are copied from nature. and the hat or bonnet it
SELF is simple straw.with q neat ornamental bead
ed or other edge. but no mi Xture OF stun In crown
or brfm as heretofore
The elemental ideas are few the ShapeS NOT ex-
agyerated, but narrow, and brought up TO dis
proportionate height by the fOrk-like effects of
abe side or front, and consists Of upright bou-
Quet fastened TO ladder of bows or upright loops
mounted upon strip Of still muslin, which keeps
the structure In position
Novel effects in these simple styles are obtained
from the Use OF adapted materials and the Occa-
siOnal transfer OF the trimming from the front to
the back; which, to make the COPY complete. is
finished with turned-up brim.
Among the novelties Is a bonnet which looks as
bark, overlapping each other slightly; and SO
firmly attached 10 the foundation that they seem
10 be part or IL. The material consists in reality
OF cone leaves selected, dried pressed and care
fully sewed on to a foundation. II Is one OF the
new Developments OF cottage industries, and very
effective. The basket strawS are not so coarse
and, therefore, prettier than last year. They look
well for young girls, and are appropriately
trimmed with field flowers.
Black, dotted net bonnets are made this season,
70 wear with black toilets; and they are trimmed
with open Jet leaves and spray OF lilies OF the
crown, shaped something like an old Roman char
lot The brim Is thrown up like the visor from
helmet, and IS studded as II with small nails It
lays close 10 the head and has a martial effect
straw will undoubtedly be very much used this
year, because IT Is nne and neat In appearance;
not TOO fanc1fu and adaptS itself in color to the
nne woods and cloths for street wear The hats
are very little changed from the shapes OF two
years ago The main difference Is occasional
breadth OF brim, not all round but sometimes sides,
sometimes back and sometimes front; but always
turned up and surmauntea 6y the principal effect
or one Slde-according TO the trick Of the brim
The upright effects are continued; but flowers and
and the turned-up brims are always faced with
velvet White hlacs, spear-shaped grasses and
ence TO more graceful blooms. because they hetter
follow the still lines which fashion ordains for
bonnet and hat decoration. 1t Is easy, however
for TO dverge In order to crafty their
tastes; and IL bunch OF clover OF cowsps. OF
delicate heather-blOSSOmS Will better suit their
purposes, they will not be out Of order.
A charming bonnet, which reproduced the Old
and favor1te combination OF rose-pink and green
was made OF lettuce green transparency In
narnented with pink bow and long, fern-shaped
leaves OF the Jets; not black jets out tinted and
technically called lets"
NEW TAILoR-xADR SUITS.
The newest, most fashionable color Is shade Of
gray blue; not the cold. electric shade. but a
lovely color with warmer, peacock tint In IT. It
appears IN fine, soft camers hair In Vienna cloth
xhc Inc eo Srosn Oi when Jackets are made but
making IL INTO very stylish gowns which form a
double dress or skirt and polonaise. the latter
opening over skirt with front or panels enriched
with O2ydized silver braid. in rery elaborate nat
terms and fastened with enameied silver buttons
which are nyeted on with minute silver nail heads
Inc ols OF the p0l0nalSe are held by SQUARE pOck
cts, which are real and very conspicuous: the
back l. long and gracefully draped below the
bodtlce, Which Is ornamental with depressed lines
OF matted, silver braid, which are outlined and
enclosed oy folds or the wool; show PERTAINS an
linen IN Wilt over the bust, but arrive at point
al tae waist This reduction OF width in Trim
illig, as the lines approach the waist Is a feature
OF the spring styles, and Is very becoming 70 stout
1guTes.
The Insertion of a color in the lines OF trimming
on the bodice Is also useful, because effective
anu capable or variety. Gold silver, red or blue
Otaid, or gOred snip may be introduced at
pleasure or In accordance with the purpose or con-
venience OF the wearer.
Bralding Is a distinctive feature OF the Redfern
Costumes The operators are brought from London
and Paris 70 execute the work, which has an the
eject OF the richest embroidery An al black
costume Is marvel Of work, and an exact copy of
one made for Queen Victoria The braidirip is
executed hat, In three different widths and In H.h
circular and curved ngureS inrerIOcked and inter
I1cco 10 form the design IL covers the narrow
front OF The SKIRT enriches both sides OF the front
OF the Dpdlcc, forms deep epauettes and Guns Tor
u sleeves anu an ornament upon the high side OF
the sklr., nelr the waist line. A long and stytsh
p1-oAslse OF W incSor green cloth opens upon one
s.dt, disclosing braided panel In green and oxy.
G4otd silver upon stone gray BengaItne The
OOdlCe shows single diagonal rerers OF Bengaline
br:iled 10 match the panel and high braided
CCilar. Inc newest style OF polOnaiSe Is Open In
front or at the sides, and Is dreped Ia long lines
from the side or the front, which Is caught in a
series OF folcs fastened with a siiyer-clasp.