Wichita eagle., 1887-11-30

crops. The villages, which are numer-
Gus, consist of collection OF miserable
mud huts similar to those OF the Pueblo |
Indians in New Mexico.
AT two places on the route L noticed a
vast eoncourse OF people with donkeys
cameis and oxen. and an odd array OF
plunder-vegetabies dates. lines. fowls,
goat and sheep skins, sugar cane. trays
of cakes, bags Of cut straw and fuel,
and all the odds and ends of which the
farm traffic of this country consists.
was told that it was market day, and in
an open space adjoining one OF thelr
wretched villages the nelghoorlng
farmers had congregated to swap
wealth. OF course the entire popula-
ton here outside the large cities IS Mo
hammedan, and as long as they cllng 10
their faith they viii be just what they
are now. a superstitiouS, improvement ana
non-proSressive people.
We were about five hours In making
the run TO Cairo pronounced Afo) anu
but for the intense heat. would have en-
joyed the trip immensely. However,
the day following there was a marked
change in the temperature, and up TO the
present time we have had no reason 10
complain of the weather. 1t has SIMPLY
been delightful. We are domiclled at
the Shepherds hotel, which, TO all m
tents and purposes. might as well be To-
Gated in London, for all the guests are
English or Americans. and every one
connected with the house speaks the
language of our mother tongue. The
cuisine" is fully up TO the standard OF
the best European hotels, and the only
objection we found to our surroundings
is that our windows look directly INTO
the quarters of some English soldiers
VINO once in a while, and just about the
time want to write or sleep, get hllar-
ious, and between the humping OF a
superannuated piano, the dlscordant
voices of men in an energetic effort to
sing an accompaniment, theimmense APP
plause that follows cessa-
tion of the agony, and re-
newed effort to beat the last record,
reminds me very forcibly that l have
more, and that 1 am placed in the cate
CORY of the man who turned away great
" disguised, when asked ''What are you
going to do about it," If there was no
museum of Balak. no pyramids. no SAX
karab. no relics whatever Of antiquity at
Cairo. still there would be attractive
features enough in this remarkable city
to repay one for the time and money
spent in travelling thither, It is as good
I-as circus to take seat on the broad
piazza of the hotel and watch the strange
street scenes that are daily enacted in
the metropolis of all Africa. One may
watch the incessant stream OF people
move by in the great thoroughfares of
New York, Loudon and Paris without
exciting any unusual degree OF interest
The sameness of attire and the orderly
manners of the passers by convey no
novelty to the eye, but here in Cairo the
very reverse Of this prevails. Groupes of
Orientals in turbans and long gowns
and usually barefooted, stand around
and talk in such an excited manner that
a resort to blows seems imminent, but
this is a way they have, and is far re-
moved from belligerency. Two
Arabs will approach each other, perhaps
not having met for "A hours, and salute
by the customary sign and with low
| saIaam followed by kisses on the cheek
thrice repeated. On broad benches in
front of shops or cafes, you will see them
sitting crOss-legged sippfng coffee and
meanwhile applying to their hips the am
Der mouthpiece of the hose-like attach
ment to the pipe which rests on the
ground which is called a shibuk, or more
! commonly nargileh or water pipe. [ was
! induced tStamper with one of them but
! found it would be necessary to obtain
satisfaction. to apply mustard plaster
to my back to assist my drawing quail
ties. You NAV be assured the method
was of short duration. | rather think
the nargileh is giving way to the much
more convenient cigarette. l used &c
think the illustrations in the Arabian
Night were fanciful and rudely drawn,
but personal observation has convinced
me of my error. They portray the Incl
dents they are intended to illustrate with
quite as much faithfulness as we eXer-
cised before the mention Of engraving
on marble plates came into use
Cairo is not yet sufficiently mod
ernized to have adopted any
system Of street railway to assist
rapid locomotive. but European hack.
and cabs are quite numerous, and have
not vet fully succeeded in driving out
the cheap and delightful little donkeys
with their patient owners who follow II
the rear once they have secured a pas
/ senger. armed with a stick to accelerate
speed. and no matter how fast one IS IN
clined to ride. they always keep pace
with the nimble feet of the lOng-earec
ouadruped. The saddles have a peculiar
shape in front about the pommel, re-
sembling a hump which is invariably oil
red morocco. As compared to a JeruSa
lem donkey, they stand IN about the
same relation as a pacing horse does to {
rough trotter At all hours of the day
YOU will see beturbaned and be-fezzeC
individuals. some of equal avoirdupois t.
the donkey itself, gliding swiftly
through the streets. the long gowns
worn by them presenting the appearance
of a woman riding "straddle, and by
the way. that is the attitude the female
riders Of the Orienl assume. the side
saddle being an abomination to them a!
it ought to be to the civilized world.
would be willing to vote a gold medal L
the first-leader of fashion in America
who would invent and assume a ridme
!, apparel that would admi
without scandal Of q lady sitting astrid,
when enjoying that most healthful anC
exhiliarating OF al outdoor exercise
riding on horseback But connected
with this subject OF street iocomouon
the straugest sight 10 my eyes. and one
that is peculiarly critical. is the avan
courier, who bare legged. with shor
gown and richly gold embroidered JACKIE
and long upIifted stick, runs on foot il
front of carriages containing ladies @
the harem or persons distinguished b,
rank or wealth. The runner IS good 70
; twenty miles. It is said, and have seel
, them so frequently. some times in pairs
keeping ahead Of swift trotters and yell
ing to al persons on the street to max
, wav. that l am convinced of its truth