The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1887-10-12
Sleeves.

Sleeves.
Sleeves are the question of the hour
in.the wardrobe department, reads a
fashion article in the London UluStra-
ted NelCS. They are forming quite a
special feature of the autumn new
styles. Precisely which of the novel
varieties will achieve popularity re-
mains to be seen. But certain il is al
ready that no new gown intended to be
stylish must be made up with plain
coat sleeve. Perhaps the simplest mod
ifcation of it is to merely cut the
sleeve rather full and gather it into a
narrow velvet band, hooking under a
bow at the wrist. Where two materi-
ais are combined in the costume, the
top of the sleeve is made of the trim
ming fabric, or that which forms the
vest, while the under part is of the
palmer or predominating stuff; and in
order that this construction may be
visible while the dress is on, the under
half of the sleeve is cut nearly as wide
as the top half, and is put in so that the
underneath shall come, at the arm
hole, not far below the point of the
shoulder. In another style of sleeve,
the top part, from the shoulder
to just below the elbow, is fully
gathered, and put into a tiPht-fitting
cuff which covers the arm from the
wrist up to the elbow, and which but
tons down the back so that it may fit
quite tightly. In yet another gown,
the top of the sleeve is trimmed across
with bars of velvet. One pretty demi-
toilet dress, of mignonette silk, has
the elbow sleeve slashed open, show
ing full white lace insertion apparent
ly held down in its place by straps OF
gold passementerie an inch wide, which
cross and recross in a moderately close
trellis; a narrow full vest of white lace,
half-high, being similarly barred over
with the beautiful bullion embroidery.
A velvet or braided epaulet, even,
will suffice to redeem q sleeve for O
plain dress from reproach; or a coat
sleeve will pass muster if made of q
different material from the major por-
ton of the bodice-as q velvet sleeve
with plain tweed gown, or a plaid
sleeve with q self-colored material
bodice.
Is it, / wonder, our climate alone
that prevents us from ever emulatine
in our dress the unconstrained and un-
pretending grace of the Grecian cos.
tune, in which Mary Anderson looks
her loveliest as the dual heroine oil
1.-The Winters Tale?" The peasant
girls who dance with Perdita at the
shearing feast-in which scene Miss
Anderson is grace impersonified-are
all dressed in a sort of Greek robe
shortened little and girt in trife, tC
make it workable-looking; but still sc
easy and free, and withal so elegant
that it is a sight to make everybody il
corsets and tight-waisted and full
skirted gowns quite envious. Little
need had those fortunate damsel!
of the "poking-sticks of STEEL" which
the pedlar, Autolycus with that Gu
rious disregard of anachronisms which
nobody dares to deem fault il
Shakspeare), is made to offer to sell
"Poking sticks" were q sort of golfer
ing-irons of the age of Elizabeth, de
vised for getting up the great quilleC
ruffs. "Poking sticks and stomachers,
indeed, for Perdita, with her GRACEFUL,
flowing chiffon and only broad loos,
bands outlining and emphasizing al
the slopes and curves of her free, un
fettered form OF course, the beauti
full actress is justified in choosing tn,
Grecian dress by the reference to tn,
Oracle of Delphos as to the innocenc,
of Hermione; and, assuredly, no Other
costume is so elegant. The "pokinJ
pins and stomachers," and the King
"green velvet coat" which he remem
bers that he wore before he wa
"breeched," and other lines that Nigh
similarly quote, are chronological va
carries about costume allowed to
Shakespeare in dialogue, but not to b.
followed in dressing the play"
Great travelers-Somo bank cashiers