The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-08-26
Ladies Department.
New York Fashions.
TAILOR GOWNS FOR AUTUMN.

clOth gowns III pfeparaGlon LOT the
first cool days of autumn and for
early winter. Smooth cloths will be
used again for dressy snits, two col
ors in rather marked contrast appear.
ing in one costume. For these COM
bnation cloth costumes the lighter
color will be used for the lower skirt
and vest, with dark basque end
drapery; the trimming is braiding
on the vest and lower skirt of the
dark color used for the upper part;
thus serpent green cloth will be drap.
ed over skirt of gray cloth which
is deliberately braided with green
like that of the over-dress; another
gown has a skirt of tobacco brown
cloth with poionaise of dark blue
cloth, and the braiding on the light
brown vest and the skirt border is of
dark blue like that of the polonaise.
When a jacket is added it matches
the color of the upper part of the
gown; small mantles and still small
er shoulder capes are made of COM
binations of the two colors softened
by the use of braid in complicated
designs, and of fringe made of braid
Pinked edges are again seen on i'm
ported cloth gowns, forming side
bands, yokes, borders, and vests,
made of alternating rows of dark and
light cloths, as pansy-color with fawn
or Havana brown with cactus red.
PLAIN AND PLAID CLOTHS.
Plain and plaid cloths will be seen
together in autumn gowns in the way
so popular for summer ginghams,
satteens, etc, with the basque of the
plain smooth faced cloth, and the
skirt with its long drapery of large
plaided, softer twilled cloth. This is
prettily illustrated in a dark myrtle
green cloth basque made single, breast,
ed, short on the hips, with postillion
peats in the back, and trimmed with
gilt cord set on in q braiding pattern,
forming two points below the collar
in front and two behind, the high
collar and the wrists of the coat
sleeves are also braided. The skirt
has a green ground with large plaids
of cream, gold, and red upon it, and
is laid in wide side pleats with a
very long draped over-skirt, which
hangs in full straight pleats down the
middle of the back. Another dress
which will serve for the autumn trav.
cling gown about which brides ex-
pectant are already asking had a
plain postillion basque of the drab
shade called ashes of.roses, with
draped skirt of cross barred fawn and
drab, the bars nearly two inches
apart. For those who prefer that the
greater part OF the dress should be Of
plain Goth, the plaid is confined to
the lower skirt. and is only visible at
the foot and up each side, and in the
middle of the back between the plain
drapery, which may be in points or
in uare-ccrnered long ends.
ROUGH CLOTHS.
Rough cloths for autumn gowns
are in zigzag stripes, crossbars, and
checks of vague, indistinct colors
prettily blended. The herring-bone
stripes like those of chuddah cloth
are seen in melange of green, red,
blue, and fawn-color woven together
so that no single shade predominates
Very dark diagonais of rough surface
also have various colors blended,
while the Isle of Wight serges are
smoother, yet of most distinct twill
and are of a single color. Among
these acajou, or mahogany, and the
various brownish.reds known as Flor
entine reds, are largely imported.
Plain serges will be combined with
MORE antique of the same color, or
else with changeable MORE, as the
scarahee MORE, showing dull red
and green together, will trim plain
red or moss green serges, and the
brown and blue changeable silk will
trim cloth of either of those colors.
Three bands of MORE will be placed
around the lower skirt ofserge dress
es, with single band on the deep
oVcr-sklrC' OF else Iengthwlse bands
will trim the apron, and will be grad
uated TO tit in the tapering basque.
DESIGNS FOR VESTS, BAsQUEs, ETC.
The draped or folded vests or
waistcoats so much in favor at pres
ent will remain feature of autumn
and winter gowns. All bodices will
be deliberately trimmed in front, with
the exception of those made by tai.
lots, and these will have narrow fiat
garniture, in the shape of smooth
vests and slender revers that widen
at the top, and extend around the
neck below the standing collar. Rep
ped silk, Bengaline, MORE, and vel
vet will be used for vests, and will
partly cover cloth revers, the cloth
of the dress goods extending beyond
the silk, and being stitched in rows,
or perhaps ornamented with narrow
braid.
For house dresses the wide bias
half.girdle fronts will be used in com
bination dresses, the soft upper part