The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-10-30

stones as a matter OF course can never W.
barred by fashion DEGREES. There are some
magnificent diamonds in New YORK. a
/ 125 carats stone worth $l00,0OO a q carats
stone valued at SIS, 200 these and jewels
like them can afford to laugh at the hckle
goddess whmss But small diamonds, none
the less, are having their day. A diamond
ring does not necessarily mean big sum
spent nowadays 1t may cost not more ohhii
50 or $40 for the stone and be fairly wen cur.
but small, such as jewelers. did not oother
with no long time ago.
The reign of small diamonds means, prln-
cipally, of course, that cluster and Marques
stones are in fashion. Rings are maze
| brilliant with from three TO SIX, elgnJ or
ten small diamonds set in cleaning circle /,
diamond ornaments are made in all manner
of fanciful shapes and set with myralds OIL
small stones where a season or so ago Jhey
would have included fifth of the number
of larger ones. Watch cases are crusted
over with diamonds so small as to look ike
diamond dust, and in fifty different ways
the small gems, by combination IN great
quantities, are made to do the duty ana 10
shine with the brilliancy of bigger ones.
Being more desirable, the little diamonds
have gone up in price Color in diamonds
does not rule them out in point OF beauty or
of value if it is positive and deep enough.
A decided yellow is tint TO be priced, but
diamond as off color, ruins its reputation
in the eyes Of connoisseurs. Diamonds
! and sapphires is favorite combination thls
winter for rings and for all MANNER OF or
namental use ~.
The pearl is the jewel of the season, so
| the verdict runs, and is growing IN favor
every day. Time was when pearls were
relegated to debutantes and to brides, and
when as the emblem of babyish innocence
| naIa al W
| feminine world; but the beauty of the pearl
| has conquered as beauty always does, ana
| this winter it will be worn by every woman
| whose skin it suits and who can compass us
possession The pearl is made up in mock
| laces for the most part, and a single string
clasping the throat closely may cost $6O,OOO,
as did circlet of twenty-seven large per
| feet stones laid out before me, or may be
| had in small but still round and milky
stones for school girls, or modest debutante,
| for not more than $125. Double and quad
ripple strings of small pearls and necklaces OF
| a dozen strings cost anywhere from $500 to
| $500. Pearls are the favorite jewels for the
necklace and few others are used, the two
] exceptions being tiny blue enamel beads IN.
| terspersed with pearls and fine chains OF
gold on which from four to eight fine dla-
monds are set in row.
The flower jewelry is more varied and In
higher favor than ever before. Infinite
pains is taken in close imitation OF nature,
and double violets, in exquisite enamel
with diamond centre, four-leave clovers,
| rose buds and blossoms, edelweiss, IlacS
| and clover are the posies that society girls
most fancy. The orchid is new thing In
| jewelry, and with its multitude of shapes
and colors affords ample ground for the
experiments Of the artist in enamel. Black
violets are the latest notion for people who
wear jewelry i'll mourning Twenty
| dollars to $3.50 buys the daintiest of blossoms
| in enamel but when one comes to plnBs
done in fine, deep red rubies, or violets In
| blue sapphires, then the figures run up TO
800 or $500 The real novelties in flower
jewelry for the winter are turquolses cut
into forget-me-nots the blossom carved
bodily ont of the stone. and mOOnstones cut
likewise into blossoms of half dozen kinds.
Flowers have not driven insects out of the
field, and a world of ingenuity is expended
by the designers on the platinum gauze that
makes the filmy wings of butterfly or
beetle while a moonstone forms the body,
garnets are bright for eyes, and rhlnestones
shed lustre everywhere. Large butterflies
Will make ornaments for ball gowns this
winter, and the gorgeous creatures sclntll-
late with stones of every hue. A novel
fancy is a corsage bouquet, with flowers and
leaves outlined and veined in platinum
pauze with rhinestoneS for drops of dew.
The newer brooches have forsworn the
long bar shape that one has seen for half
dozen years. The bar was successor to the
old-fashioned round pin; and instead of go
ing back to that the recent productions
show complex shapes in artistic designs.
The brooch itself is largely deserted for the
small lace pin which keeps some modifica-
ton of the bar shape, as three pansies
strung on a wire a stalk of valley lily in
silver; garnets and pearls, pearls and dia-
monds, or turquoise and pearls strung in
cluster on a wire.
The earring for street wear has gone
Large and valuable stones for evening wear
hold their place, but except when exhibit
ing ones finest jewels the earring is wanting
on is very unconspicuous and small. The
bracelet shows fewer changes than most
other ornaments. A woven braid of gold,
or golden chain, is as well liked as any
form The wire bracelet has its continuity
interrupted by the best stones that one can
procure set at irregular intervals about the
wrist. A continuous chain of diamonds, each
in its separate setting, makes the most bril-
liant bracelet known.
The chatelain watch is gone The proper
caper to-day is the small queen drop, a
highly ornamented chain of some few inches
length with jeweled ball for a weight upon
the end The watch is sometimes small
enough to compare with silver quarter or
dime and again apes grotesque shapes,
initiating a vinaigrette, or getting itself set
in the handle of umbrella or parasol. Its
more modest freaks include a round, grin
ming sun face, wrought upon the gold case,
or a single big diamond set in a case of black
enamel like shining eye.
Bonnet pins are device that calls for a
deal of cash nowadays. They are tiny things,
but as ingenious as anything that the artist
in gold and precious stones turns out. Pearls
and rubies, garuets and moon stones go into
them, and they fasten down the bows on my
lady's headgear with fans swallows in flight,
horseshoes, insects of all sorts, shamrocks in
green enamels, four-leaved clovers in cloves,
gold cloves with heads of pearl, and ali
manner of other things.
The designer busies himself a year, maybe,
getting some of his conceptions into shape,
but the more artistically beautiful results
that begin to show in our jewelry repay
him for his pains.