New Ulm weekly review., 1887-03-02

earthly hue which is seen at times
when the snow and sky intermingie.
1t was superiatiyely fine morning,
| and save for few saffron. .colored
clouds floating above the Weissthor
the sky was perfectly clear
We breakfasted near the well-known
halting-place for parties making the
ascent of Monte Rosa, and soon after
wards wei left that mountain on our
left to keep on up the Grenz Glacier
toward the summit Of the Lysjoch.
1t seemed certain now that we
| should have a fine day, but Franz
was clearly i'll at ease. and grumbled
constantly about the heat in the
night saying that he feared that we
should find the Lyskamm arete in
bad condition,
His spirits, though, recovered some
what as we got higher, and certainly
the weather lett little to be desired for
a flood OF golden sunlight spread over
rock and snow. till even the hollow of
the glacier in which we stood became
bathed in the glorious light. Indeed
we could not have chosen q more per-
| AOSo oc1J A"I Jul CApcOlClOu
We made rapid progression we were
what is known as a fast party, and
while it was still early we reached the
foot of the terrible arcte which rises
straight up from the glacier till it cul-
inmates in the summit of the Lys-
kamm
To my mind this arete constitutes
one of the nastiest bits OF climbing in
the Alps. It is not difficult, but it is
long, and almost IN it's whole length
dangerous. The danger arises from
the cornice, which in an immense mass
hangs over the Italian side OF the
mountain. The actual ridgei is so sharp,
and on either side Of the face of the cliff
falls away so steeply to the glacier,
that the greatest care is necessary in
order to keep on the ridge itself with
out tresspassing upon the cornice,
which, being formed of frozen snow
only, is liable to crumble away at the
slightest touch. So deceptive is a.
cornlce OF this description that even
good gnides are at a loss to distin-
guish sometimes between what is safe
and what is not, while to novice
what may appea" to be one broad,
| smooth surface of snow may be safe
to tread upon only to the width OF a.
| few inches
| It is this difficulty of telling where
the firm ground ends and where the
cornice begins that constitutes the
| danger OF the Lyskamm arete. More
than once it has led to mistakes on
the part of guides, and it was such
that caused one OF the most awful
tragedies that ever occurred to noun
taineers-the fatal accident to Messrs.
Lewis and Patterson's party in 1878.
The Lyskamm by this route is en-
phaticaliy not an ascent to be recon-
mended.
Franz was celebrated for his eau
tion, and on this day he exercised
even more than his ordinary care.
Not step did he take without first
testing the snow in front with the
point Of his ice axe, so as to MAX e
sure Of what was ahead, and he never
moved forward until quite convinced
that it was safe to do so.
Thus our progress was slow, and it
was not till nearly IL O clock that we
topped the final ridge aud stood to-
gether upon the summit of the Lys-
kamm. ....
The view exquisitely bright and
clear as the 81 KY was that day, was a.
marvelously beautiful one, but it is
not within my province to describe it
here, and, indeed were I to make the
attempt, should fail to convey an
idea Of the impression it made upon
me at the time. Besides, it was not
for long we were permitted to enjoy
it, for Franz was all eagerness to be
down the arete before it got much la
ter.
We were soon on the rope again.
r ranz led, then / came, then Burns
and the porter-an admirable man
tor the purpose, on account of his
| weight and straightforward up the
rear. It was in this order that we be-
gan the descent.
All went well at first. Each man was
careful to use the rope as the rope
ought to be used-that is, by keeping
it taut between himself and his man in
front. Franz moved downward care
fully, and at each step sound the
snow with his axe, as he had done on
his way up. The position, in fact, was
one whicn needed care.
Upon our left the face Of the noun
tain fell sharply awav.to the glacier
below, a distance Of over 5000 feet,
and we dared not leave the edge OF the
arete to pass on to it, for upon this
face there lay a quantity of fresh snow
in a loose and dangerous condition.
On our right lay the dreadful cornice.
Suddenly Franz halted. Something
seemed to trouble him, for more than
once he struck his axe intosthe snow in
front Of and beside him without NOV
ing gforward. He called to me to pay out
the full length of rope between myself
and him, which did, and again he ad-
vanced "a fewsteps. When he stopped,
and turning round to me, in slow
tones said: Herr, be very careful
how you tread here; take care only to
put your foot in the steps make, for"
and this he added very impressively
I've are in great danger here"
He had hardly spoken-in fact, the
words were still in his mouth when I