The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1887-04-21
FASHIONS FOR MEN.
WHAT THOSE WHO FOLLOW THE
STYLES ARE WEARING.

The Edicts Of the sartorial Artists for the
Present scason--vests are Cut L,w Enough
TO Give Mos Shirt Bosoms Little Show
The Sack Coat and Cutaway stin Worn.
In the make up of the business suits
the sack coat and the three-buttoned Gu,
away are retained in their general foa-
lures, though when made in the NOR
pronounced plaids the sack Is considered
the natter garment. The three-button
cutaway buttons even lower than hereto
fore. The waist has been heightened
little, without putting any additional
length on the skirt, and thus for the coat
shorter look is obtained, though in re-
ality 1t is about the same length. 1t
should be made to fit closely to the figure,
but not to anything like the extreme extent
of the past two or three years. The desire
on the part Of extremists in dress to get
avery low opening coat has brought out
new style, the two-button cutaway, which
is likely to be seen considerably among
the very swell element.
In this coat the lower button is where
the third button on the ordinary cuta-
way would be, but the top button is
much lower, and the lapel is naturally
larger and heavier. On all plaid cuta-
ways the outside breast pocket is yet in
favor. and so are the flaps at the sides,
which may cover real pockets or dunn
mics, at the wearer's option. The sleeves
should fit fairly snugly, and curve to con-
form to the natural position of the arm.
At the cuff is vent, and two buttons
are used to trim. As in past seasons, the
use of waddings in the shoulders will be
avoided, though the square effect is de-
sirable for most men, and is obtained by
skilful tailors shrewd enough to locate
the shoulder seams on the coat a tri1e
higher than heretofore. OF course, how
ever, the sensitive man with sloping
shoulders will be forced to pad just lit
tie. Cutaway coats in fancy goods are
made with the edges turned in and
stitched double, and there ought not to
be bit more than a quarter Of an inch
between the stitching.
The morning sack coat in the same
goods may have three or four buttons.
The toniest men prefer three, because
that style enables the tailor to make the
opening lower and the lapel heavier.
There Is no very new feature about this
sack, save that it is cut somewhat straighter
in form, and made to button all the way
down, if desired, the corners not falling
away as formerly. The sack will be OF
good length A man of five feet ten inches
will find that his morning sack measures
very near thirty inches in length. 1t will
shape in snugly, but not too closely to
the back, a moderation in this respect
being among the improvements. The
patch pockets and the outside pockets
will suffer no change, and the coat finally
will be finished with low roll and soft
front, SO that its most graceful appear
ance will be gained when it is worn open
In fact, most tailors are turning out both
cutaways and sacks in business suits, so
that they may be worn open.
In the vest of the business suit the
opening is cut still lower than hereto
fore, and the popular style is the single
breasted, notched-collar, five or six but
ton vest. The no-collar vest will be worn
to moderate degree; but the extreme,
because the latest, style, is that sort of
vest with the low opening showing be-
meath the front edges false collar made
from white Marseilles or pique. This is
simply revival of very old style, and
was first noticed last summer. This year
it is probable that the false vest will be
worn principally with fancy vests of
either worsteds or silks. These fancy
vestings, by the way, continue to increase
in favor, and the variety of designs is
quite bewildering. The majority of them
seem to be in small figures, combination
of dots, little flowers, stripes, checks,
&C., in red and black, red and white, blue
and black, and other combinations.
Fancy vests may have silk twist buttons
or buttons covered with the same mate
rial the edges are turned in and stitched,
and the corners are cut away slightly at
the bottom.
The trousers of business suit, or of
any other suit worn this year, are cut
even wider than was the rule last year.
The trousers of the swell young man now
quite verge on to bagginess-thati is, they
will measure nineteen inches around the
knee and eighteen at the bottom on an
average-size man. Trousers in fancy
goods will have side seams finished with
quarter-inch welt; in the smoother OF
dressier goods the seam will be discarded.
All trousers are made entirely without a
spring nowadays, because the tailor seeks
to give them the appearance of being
loose and straight.
The dark diagonal coat, fancy vest and
cashmere trousers of striped or checked
material form what is properly called the
afternoon suit-a suit, by the way, that
has in many instances replaced the Prince
Albert costume. For the coat of this suit
the black wide-waled diagonal retains its
hold among dressy men. The three-but
ton cutaway in this material is no longer
trimmed by fashionable tailors with black
Iilk braid. That has given way to silk
galoon binding about three-eighths of ar
inch wide, laid over the edge half anG
half. The coat itself has slightly more
pronounced cutaway, giving a smarter
and more graceful contour to the sweeI
of the skirts. In the trousers worn will
the afternoon suit striped materials pre-
dominate, and the designs and shades art
almost limitless. A fancy vest in all its
gorgeousness will complete the costume
though in the few warm months it may
be replaced by the lighter linen vest.
This springs silk hat is smaller in it,
general proportions than that of las
year, because it has straighter crown
with less bell to it. In this departure the
American made hat is somewhat more
conservative than the English one, which
has hardly any bell at all. On both tht
rims are quite narrow, though the dip anG
curve at the side are about the same
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