Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-04-01
LADIES' COLUMN.
The Graceful Garments of Aspasia
and the Creations of Phidias Sarve
as Models for Modern Dress.
Designs and Suggestions for Mourning
Dresses-SOme Simple Costumes
for the Young and Gay.
Arrangement Of Skirts-Dress for the sum.
mer Jaunt-EIon Jackets for Little
BOys-Grcrchen Waists-Notes,

BOya-Grerchen Waists-Notes,
In this latitude any announcement tina
I spring is here is unnecessary, the brigh
pink Of the peach tree, the lovely purple
tint of the Iilsc, the sweet breath of hva
cinth and violet ali tell the tale with such
| emphasis there can be no doubs that the
| coquettish goddess INDUCES no longer
| dalliance with chilly winter, but has qui-
! city turned to her legitimate work, and
what vita bursting the swollen buds,
COaXing the tender fJWerGt from It's green
sheSthlng and lending her spare sugaes-
lions 70 the queen OF modes, for whom
she IS high counsellor, the WinSOme maid
| has business IL hand for several weeks
| The he9lthtul sunbeams lend CHEEKY eX-
| hiiaTdtiOn to ell, and in none is it more
/ apparent than in the ladies VINO are now
actively solving the all-absOrbing
question of what to wear and how to
make it. Dressmaking is indeed al art
and carried to its Legitimate results re-
quireS artistic genius in the COstumer,
There is no good reason why the dress
maker should not rank with other artists,
for in the selection Of COlOrs and the
adaptabillty Of style to form the success
full mOdiSte must have the eve Oh painter
and sculptor, and when ladies recognize
this IaCT and receive cordially ladies Ia
this profession they win be gamers in that
there will be more talent and culture at
work to render women lovely. To say to
woman who knows nothing of her art
but mechanical execution that Greek
models are now sought would be me8n-
ingleSS, but the woman Of culture would
easily recall the graceful dr9peries, the
pointed Ceinture and classic abandon
which stamp the Greek idea and would
ind no difficulty in adapting these sug-
geStions TO the demands of modern cos
tuning. The DireCtOire style, Of which
so much is now written, is only
modification of the Greek, ana
this season both mi!liner and dress
maker must be sbe to utilize this
style revived. If once the prejudice be
removed ladies born and bred will have
no hesltancy in becoming designers in an
art so peculiarly adapted to women.
The columns OF all the fashion journals
TEEN with glowing descriptions of sum-
mer fabrics. Great st. ess is put on the
pretty cotton dress goods, Scotch, French
and chenille ginghams, and sateens which
emulate fOulGrds in Iuster, color and pat
tern. Mention IS also made of a cotton
goods called crepe bOuCle, which comes in
all light COlOrS and has perpendicular
stripes formed Of coarse, knotty threads,
single and N clusters of three on q Grape
like ground of the same color.
Some tasteful mourning dresses for
spring and summer are made of let black
camePs-hair fabrics trimmed with Grape,
and others are of the finest qualities Of
nuns yelling, with the broad selvages-
nearly two inches Wide-that are now
considered the most elegant finish for
draperies. A yelling dress for a widow
has the lower skirt falling in very wide
pleats, hemmed, and with three tucks
above; this skirt is only seen on the right
side and the left is covered by the drspery
which falls there in two wide folds from
belt TO the foot; down each fold is set g
row OF taffeta ribbon, two inches wide,
with corded edges, finished W: i two
loops at the foot. This drapery with it's
selVage crosses the front to the left hip,
where it forms funnel-shaped pleat,a
then falls in straight folds behind, the
folds being defined To the foot. The
basque has pointed yoke-shsped piece of
Grape IN front, with pleats below, and
straps Of Grape across the folds. Another
yelling dress, also for g widow, has fine
kilt pleats, only an inch wide for the
skirt, with the Selvage drapely
forming short curve on the !
left hip, showing the selvage, deep
apron in front, shaped and faced, point |
ed wing on the right, showing selyage,
and back drapery of one wide width, !
with its selvages turned back in revers |
that nearly meet in the middle from belt |
to foot.
Grape panels in cancels hair skirts meet !
at the top in front and are separated by |
long blessings or by q curved apron of |
the cancels hair, and similar panel is |
down the back. The Overskirt is then at |
taChed to the front panels, drawn up on |
each side in g short Vatican field and |
hangs down il straight folds over the !
tourEure, meeting the middle panel of |
Grape. Girls not yet in their teens when |
put into mourning wear entire dresses Of |
black but short time, when they are |
dressed in mixed stuffs, such as black !
and white shepherds check, striped and !
checked ginghams and gray serges and
Cneviots trimmed with black.
For dresses Of Henrietta cloth there
are now made shsWlS 10 match, either
long or square, which are very much
needed acquisition.
The last imported lace dresses are of
FlOrentine guipure now so fashionable
tor mantles. This has large square
meshes, with graceful curved designs of
lilies and leaves, and will be
used both in piece lace, IN narrow trim
ming lace and in deep sCallOped lace that
IS wide enough to form the entire skirt or
ts drapery. A dress of this lace Just
imported is over black satin, with q mar
low gathered lace frill at the foot laid
over satin knife pleating. Above this
irOps the piece lace, sewed to the top OF
he frill and falling on it like g puff,
)leated to the front of the belt in IN
.pron, with two puff5 on each side held
~ MORE RIBBON straps, and g full long
lrapeTy hanging in Arab folds at the top.
re high basque, lined with satin
is gathered at the throat and
waist, and its only trimming is the moire
ibbon arranged as a nigh collar, with 8
'ow on the left and series Of bows
own the left side of the corsage.
MISSES COSTUMES.
A pretty dress for young girl is OF
un's yelling, white or colOred. The
kit is full and draped at the back by
road ribbon sash, frInged st the ends.
he corsage is q pleated yoke waist made
yer a tight lining, the lower edge worn
nder the skirt belt. which is hid by the :
Tx bels of the sash. The foundation
kirt has a pleating of yelling eight
aches broad, and the yelling skirt is
nished by re inch hem.
Another pretty style has full skirt !
nth deep hem and four tucks, an apron ,
rapery on the front and finished in the