The Sedalia weekly bazoo. [volume] (Sedalia, Mo.) 187?-1904, 1887-06-14

The Leading Features of Hats and BOnnets
Intended for summer Wear.


or ii is of velvet yelled or edged with
tulle; in other instances the velvet
forms the full pulled front. and the soft
crown is of tulle. shirred or pulled.
Laces of various kinds. both black
and colored. in trimming widths. enter
conspicuously into dressy millinery,
and favorite disposition of this garni-
ture is in upright fans. sometimes
double. so turned that they form sort
of calyx surrounding aigrettes and
piquetS of fine flowers, that stand ur
from the center il most aggressive
fashion.
Lace handkerchIefs. in black and
cOlOrS. are new this season, and are
often utilized in the manner above de-
scribed. or they form briStling bows
with four pointed ends. or are punched
and draped over the crown. OrdiSposed
in a hundred different ways that only
the def fingers of an artist can accom-
plish. and no one can describe. Some
of these are in Chantillv patterns,
others have the more pronounced Span
ish and guipure designs; and there are
embroidered squares of gauze that are
used in the same general way.
Exquisitely embroidered fabrics in
GObelin cOlOrs are combined with vel.
vet. gauze and lace and there are EN-
broidered silks that have gold. silver,
beads and spangleS intermixed, which
are very rich and effective. Beads in
black and all fashionable colors appear
as an establishment on almost every
fabric used for millinery. and hats and
bonnets are made entirely of beads.
black and colored. strung on wires and
interlaced in trellis pattern, a wired
lace to match forming or supplement-
ing the brim.
Flowers are employed in profusion,
and the handsOmeSt are made of vel
vet. which imparts to them the deep
rich tints characteristic of the darker
varieties. A trellis bonnet, made en-
tirely of fine jet. is trimmed with vel
vet nasturtium blossoms of the natural
size, so perfect in colOring that they
are hardly distinguiShable from the
natural blooms. Sprays of lilac and
heliOtrOpe are also especially lovely
made in this material.
A novel manner of arranging flowers
on bOnnets is to place a lovely tied
cluster, or ''posy." about the middle
of the crown. the nodding blooms
standing up toward the front and US
uslly showing above it. The strings
generally start from this cluster, the
upper ends arranged in loops that set
up against the flowers. concealIng the
stems. or they are tied in bow about
the stems. which appear as if just cut
from the parent stalk.
Fine flowers are used in pi1uetS, or
aigrette-like sprays. and also for bOr-
dering brims. sometimes all the way
around. especially those that have the
peaked front and back to match, when
the flowers are used to fill in both
openings. Bonnets in this shape are
to be worn without strings; other bon
nets have long strings. from two to
three and half inches in width, and
there are others with two sets OF
strings, of ribbon about an inch wide.
Straws are shown in endless variety,
and many of the fancy sorts are en-
riched with beads or embroidery. A
fine braid of the satin variety, in q
light brown tint. has fine gilt cords
and bronze beads interviewer with it.
is sewed round and round on 8
frame, while the brim Is of plain satin |
brazil. Various fine Straw> AMI fjncy |
kinds like the lace strawS are woven |
in sheets. which are plaited and fol,!ed |
and pinched to form crowns for both |
bonnets and hats. and are so artistic. |
ally manipulated that they do not app
pear as stiff as might be supposed.
There are handsome laceS of straw, |
some of them delicately fine. that trim |
very effectively.
Most of the hats are intended to be |
Worn over the face: and it il predicted |
that Young ladies will wear this style |
of head-gear for ali purposes this
season. and leave bonnet5 to matrons |
and elderly" young ladies. Brims
are of irregular widths; sometime,
quite broad in front. quite narrow at
one side and ut the back, and so wide |
on the other side that when turned up |
against the crown. as most of them
are. they reach quite to the top of it.
There are shapes like English walking
hats, with the brim turned up sharply
and close to the crown at the sides, the
front square and projecting, and no
brim at all at the back; and the same
effect is noticeable in hats with the brim
outstanding in front and at the sides,
and either cut of or pinched up into
flutes or turned up squarely against
the crown. In these shapes the trim
ming 10 almost invariably disposed