Fort Worth weekly gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-10-28
LADIES COLUMN.
Change Is Written Upon All Things
and Womeh's Most Chosen
Idols Are Nc Exception.
Retrospective Chances in Blush Gray
Aids In Preserving the Harmo-
nies-FRshiO rs in Hats.
RomeIy Folks With Moaber and HOUSE
keeper-Ess cipes From Grand
mae Oook Book.

Delicate discrimination in the use OF
col9g is q Distinguishing feature that
MARKS women of artistic taste, and has
never been more noticeable than at pres
ent. In selection and combination much
latitude is allowed, but that woman is
most fashionable who avoids glarirg con-
trssts and unbecoming tints. There mas
been much speculation as to how modes
originate, and various have been the So
lutions offered. It is said one Of the best
known houses in Paris keeps two men
constantly employed in creating new de-
signs and remodelipg old ones, using Old
fashioned plates as well as copies Of cele
brated classics in painting and sculpture
as aids in their work. The nomenclature
of colors Is almost as much of riddle,
still The hues themselves are in g degree
suggestive of nsme. Here the quotation,
"What's in a name ?" might be properly
used, but as this has been asked be-
fore, the gentle reader is spared the tor
turing mental labor of attempting
an answer, neither will she be
required TO translate the names
of new and fashionable colors called in
elegant parlsnce "ssng dc teuf' and
''jambe de nymphe" With "LOndon
SMOKE" "elephanps BREATH" "sea fog"
etc, with most of these fashion readers
are familiar, but do they know the color
"retrospection.
It is q legitimate matter of surmise
whether the CO. or would be of like tint
in The esteem of different purchasers. Re
trospection color to the young maiden
who remembers her triumphs in the
dr8Wing-room or her coGquests & the ball
would certainly borrow IoEeere hue
from her bright memories, while her
more sober sister who had bent her besd
under the storms OF many winters would
associate it with gray skies ard those at
tackS Of eDnui which for want OF better
distinguishing sre known rs blues Now
you have the color; it is hlueif gray, and
maids and matrons of ali degree malB
clad in "retrcspection." How many sigh s
OF vain regret are used in trimming is
left undecided, and the number is prob
ably regulated by the age.
Milliners are gratefully remembered
for their successful efforts in lowering
the headgear. These arbiters of fashion
have decreed that the small bonnet shall
be for the theateT, that even the street
hats shsll no longer Tesch such towering
heights, and the trimming, although
placed on the top, must not be very high.
L bonnets the brims are smaller, gen.
erslly straight I'll around and tucked up
IN The middle Of the back. G2uZs trim
ming, forming 8 wide bow 10 the back
part OF the crown, extending down, then
tied around the neck, with large bow at
the side, is very fashionable st the pres
ent moment White gauZe and blsck
birds make the most favored trimming
Bids are as fashionable as ever; one
peTched or nestled On either side, as b2cE
and font OF high ribbon bow, is the
latest style for capotes. The crowns are
cut 20 initiate the ancient provincial
peasant caps. All capotes have strings
tied in small bow under the left ear.
Much is eaid in fashion journals of The
return to the Dire ctoire, but the size of
the tournure as seen in our streets give
i, little encours cement TO the idea that this
season will wi ness any decided change.
That epoch was marked by severe classic
caste, and it would be impossible 20
imagine Madame Recamier or other cele-
brated women of her time In corsets CON-
pressing the vital organs, steels in skirts.
bustles amounting to deformities, and
shoes whose pointed toes and high heels
are only suggestive of infinite torture.
Partisan correspondents insist in that city
of modes that the change though gradual
is certain and is already marked
in the reduction Of the tournure
In fact, the best dressmakers
dispense with it altogether, using three
steels in the dress skirt, even 6iscarding
the cushion which has been so long worn.
There is some whispering that the petit
coat is doomed, its use to be superseded
By the bifuIcsted skirt. There is at pres
ent so much attention given to shapeli-
ness of the form, that those women who
possess it oppose q garment which com-
pletely alters the figure and has the effect
Of charging the waist, and SO brosdeDs
the hips as to mar just proportions
There is certainly dswning an ers
OF good sense regulating many
OF the requirements Of dress,
and not the least of these
indications is the various inventione,
although most have proved failures, to
remove the restrictions enforced by the
old-fashioned garter. A writer on dress
hygienically considered, earnestly recon-
mends as better than al substitutes for
keeping the stocking smooth, q garter
made of silver spirsls, and argues that
although the first cost may be more, they
will last lifetime, and by their elasticity
and easy adjustment to the movements of
the muscles, answer the purpose designed
better than any other arrangement.
All the new dresses nave trimming
round the srmhole. Some are in shape of q
short sleeve, others have merely gimp or
psssemen{erie ornaments, and others
hsve full pouf CT a different material
inserted in pear shape on the top OF the
sleeve. This fashion is frequently
adopted in black silk dresses. The pouf
is Of white silk with black lace over, or
OF heliotrope, If either color appears on
the underskirt. The checked tweeds are
now seen cut on the cross; at first 1t was
only the tunic that wss cross-cut, now
the whole dress must appear the same.
This fashion is much more trying to ana
teur dressmskers, who find great diff
Guilty IN making the bars meet and in
getting the skirt TO hang straight, than
the plain up and down seams.
EVENING DRESSES.
The new evening dresses are su of 8
transparent kind, and spotted net in ali
colors is much used. new material
like stripes Of geuze between lsce stripes
can also be had in different colors, and
makes 8 very durable and pretty dress
Flowers ere much used as gErnitures,
and the fashion Of outlining the square
or V shaped bodice is gaining ground. |