St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1887-01-31

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/ sun, in women's froeks at least. However.
! it must be confessed that the protuberance
in the back of Woinen's skirts known as the
hustle. tournure. criiloiet-eall it what YOU
please, is all the same thing-iS of colnpar-
atlvely modern origin. There were hoops
and pannierS before the French revolution.
The hips and all around the lower eytreni-
ties OF the person were surrounded with in
Hated petticoatS before and after that
period, but the hustle proper began its
| career with varying successes and defeats
during the decade between 1910 and 1S49.
At the moment, it is the pronounced, DOM
! inant feature in fashionable woman's at
tire. Skirts may be full or short in front or
| at tile sides, they must be arbitrarily ample
III the fullest sense of the word in the back.
SO as to accommodate the huge shelf like
pfotuoeraiice with which all dresses that
are fashionable are now adorned or disfig-
urea: There IS, however. one advantage in
living IN the present age of progress and
common sense. While fashionable-reall
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS are weak about the
conventional cut of their gowns and frocks
as in the days when queens and expresses
not only set the fashions, but dictated what
the ladies of their courts and women of
their realms should ana should not wear.
there are nowadays so many poor educated
women trained to Independence of thought,
so much more study. among ali classes of
women of the subject of
ARTISTIC AND HEALTHFUL DRESS.
that even II other causes did not operate in
producing diversity, these alone would pro-
duce that variety in fashions which permi Is
extreme license in personal choice. With n
certain limits, of what each one NAV wea +.
The enormous amount OF textile fabrics nd
manufactured articles Of dress would. if
nothing else, cause variety and diversity in
women's dress. While it can not be admit ed
that we have arrived at perfection in Wom-
an S dress. we have improved so much as not
10 nave any good reason to fear that the
threatened expansion of the hustle, the
smallneSS and length of the waist. the
amplitude and weight of tue skirt. indi-
Gated by some Of the French dresses lately
brought over. will ever be permitted to go
to the excess that they m light have when a
Madame Pompadour or Du Barry set
the fashions for the world. Or later when
Madame Tailien influenced even the good
and sensible Josephine to wear the indeli-
cate modernlZed Greek costume of the first
French republic. The fact is, we have too
many women of first-rate intelligence now
adays Who know how to dress well and who
nave the means to carry out their ideas to
fear return of the majority of the sex to
the follies of the past. There are plenty of
women in America who have combination
OF artistic taste, sturdy independence and
courage of their opinions. along with the
means TO carry out their ideas. to insure for
the future prevalence of good taste and
good sense in feminine costume Women
VIII not in the future make up their clothes
by the rules of fashion plate makers and
l.
marked by good taste and good sense.
L went down stairs and entered the part
OF the academy generally known as the Or
chestra. 1t was all fioored over even with
the stage, and
AN IMMENSE CROWD
OF maskers and observers, most of both
classes, by the way, without any masks,
were parading about on it. As l walked
down the short aisle that led through the
parquet seats l noticed that among the
spectators who were sitting there were a
score or more of colored women with white
caps on their heads. There were more
White women, who were evidently do
mestics also. Their duties, [ learned,
were to act as dressing maids to the more
ostentatiouS of the maskers. While | have
nothing to say in this democracy against
servant girls, it did seem to me an evidence
OF the shockingly low tone of the occasion
to see that the maskers who weared of the
dance and the dudish men who tired with
looking on mingled unconcernedly with the
colored maids in the parquet seats, not
talking with them, but sitting next them,
wherever an empty seat could be found.
Such a thing would not be thought
of in places where the other actions
OF the people present would not be toler-
ated. By reason of the semi-circular ar
rangement of the parquet seats the dancing
floor was shaped like a section of an i'm
mense egg. Around the circumference was
triple row OF male wall-fowers rather
difficult to pass. AS | was edging my way
through l heard a tall, wildly whiskered
man greet another in this manner: ''Hello,
Charley! Wonder how many more Bos-
toniafis there are here? Want girl? L
know millions of them" l did not pause
for an answer. L will not attempt to de-
scribe the costumes. Few were worthy of
attention from an artistic point of view,
though there were many that were striking
from novel combinations of colors and gew-
gaws. One of the first figures 1 noticed
was clever imitation of Violet Cameron
as she appeared in her gorgeous red tights
costume in ''The Commodore" There
We're several others who f1oated about in
short skirts looking like animated labels
from champagne bottles
CLARA BELLE.