Los Angeles daily herald., 1887-09-18

his Is prettlly SHOWN on brown, req
and blue mixed cheviot over brown
velvet band, with brown buttons and
soutache /; the postillion back has but
tons and holes for its trimming,
and the cuffs of the coat sleeves have
ten or twelve buttons in pairs up the
other seam. The back of basques is
finished by each of the four forms be-
ing doubled below the waist line,
shaped into leaf points, faced with
a contrasting material, and edged with
braid. In many dresses the back
drapery of the skirt is hooked up on
the middle forms of the basque. The
pointed girdles that trim the
front sometime extend only to
the darts, but are most be-
coming when reaching back to the un-
der-arm seams. Passementerie orna-
ments form this girdle on rich dresses,
while others are merely of the velvet
used in combination, or OF the striped
fabric seen in the skirt. Coat sleeves
of easy-fitting shape with very simple
cuffs are on dresses of thick stuffs.
Small round crocheted and basket
| woven buttons fasten French dresses,
" th sometimes buttons OF much
| larger size set about for ornaments
only, or perhaps to hold single re-
vers, or to define the waist.
Plain lower skirts bordered with
trimming or made of figured stutfs in
stripes or bars are mounted quite full
on a gored foundation, giving the
effect Of full round gathered skirt
wherever disclosed by the dlapery.
The border is placed directly at the
foot, and may extend in one or two
rows up one side or up both sides to
the belt; this border is of velvet or
else of wide galloon or OF open
soutache braiding, and sometimes OF
both velvet and soutache. When silk
or moire is used for the lower skirt it
may be simply bordered with velvet,
or it may have pleats the whole
length of the parts not covered by
drarery. AT present the dreperies
most seen are very long in front and
back, touching the bottom OF the
dress there, and .are either omitted
altogether across the sides, or else ex-
ceedingly short on the hips. The
long black draperies are nearly
straight, but are laid in deeply folded
pleats, and are made bouffant by cush-
ions and steels like those now worn.
Many foundation skirts have two steels
quite near together crossing the back
just below the belt (perhaps four or
five inches below it, and this gives an
ample tornure without using hair
cushion hustle; three other steels are
then placed across further down the
back breadths. The cores OF the foun-
dation skirts are not changed in shape.
Foot pleatings are little used on heavy
skirts, and if used must not be visible.
Polonaises of cloth over full skirts OF
velvet, or of striped silk and velvet, or
else of lighter cloth bordered with vel
vet, are shown from various French
modistes. These polonaises outline
the long waist severely, with all full
ness of the skirt added very far below
the hips. Sometimes the front of the
waist is shirred next vest, while in
other designs it is Tapped far to the
left side. In some instances the
drapery touches the foot in front and
back, and is scarcely longer than a
basque on the sides, while other polo
naises have short panier on the left
hip, and a long apron front with
straight pleats on the right side. This
one-sided drapery is prettily seen
in brown cloth polonaise
which discloses nearly the whole
left side of its skirt of
wide brown velvet stripes alternating
with steel-colored Bengaline stripes.
The front of the polonaise has points
and vest of steel galloon holding its
shirrings in place. The striped skirt
is made of five straight breadths OF
the single-width material. simply
hemmed and mounted on a foundation
skirt. Demi-polonaises have basque
fronts and sides, with the polonaise
drapery confined to the middle forms
of the back, where it falls over cush-
ion attached to the pointed ends of
these forms, and consists of four
straight gathered breadths of moire of
single width, or of two breadths of
cloth of double fold; the skirt for
such an overdress is perfectly plain in
front and on the sides. An illustration
of this model is of Gobelin blue moire
antique with paler blue satin stripes :
the basque front is shirred to the
shoulder seams and folded over the
chest in three pleats, graduated to the
merest line at the pointed waist; the
V-shaped space at the top is filed in
with velvet, and there is velvet
girdle pointed below; the high collar
and narrow cuffs are of velvet. A
wide panel of velvet is down the front
of the skirt, a breadth of MORE is each
side OF this panel, and other panels OF
velvet are next this more breadth
the back of the polonaise then drapes
| the remainder of the skirt.