New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1887-03-06
CLOTHES IN PARIS.
THE SPRING STYLES FOR WOMEN.

IHE SfalNG STYLES fOH WOMFN
PARIS, February Is.
All Paris houses have already made choice OF their
special goods and now Offering new models to
New-York merchants. As spring goods are specially
made tor street. carriage and sporting suits, visit to
the Redeem establishment was fret in order; for
English stuHs and make having the preference, Mr..
kedern is considered tho bitter of spring fashions.
Small paids and stripes in soft wooen goods, such az
cheviots. vgagne, camels hair and adys cloth. will
not be combined with plain goods, but used tor the
whole costume, even to the headgear. Light colors
which are generally favored in England, such pale
lilac, ecrus, grays and delicate shades browns will
be preferred by French ladies, who attend all
spring art expost0ns, dog shows coaching parties,
and the like in the simple but correct English
tunes which the Princess OF Wales has introduced.
To give decided tone to these ins'pid colors,
Redeem applies small bias folds OF contrasting coors
to all the edges of the gowns such black white,
dark purple lilac scarlet brown. and dark blue
ecru. pretty costume for coaching is made Of
very light cheviot, cut into small plaids ny
black stripes the skirt has loose kits here and
there Ornamented with black embroidered horseshoes
Over this, attached to jacket. fall .ong sidefaps
On which IarAe Louis Kill pockets are marked with
black embroidered passementerie The jacket 10
tightfttug, with q white silk which are
thick back embroderies here and there fastened
with horseshoes The toque is ct the sane goods
trimmed la front with large red bird nesting in high
bow of black ribbon NUT TO match. Costumes made
STYLE but these goods will be combined With plain slh
velvet The old Sutherland plaid will be revived,
and will be disposed in large draperies front and back
on plain colOred skirts. To Ooviate the ung acefus
seams of large plads bodices AID jackets have
plastrons, front and back OF finely plcated silk to
match the skirt. Wide ribbons OF the same design
forming the wide pointed Greek belt in front. extend
ing the sides and then falling the back draery
with long loops and ends add much to the whole ap
pearance.
kedtorn has ouantites of cloths which rcaembIe
that which tailors tor gentlemen's morning and
business Suits these include very small mottle(
stripes of dark shades OF brown and very small plaidH
OF dark coors ben ing into each Other The home
spun cloths in their rough welt aud neutral color viii
be made up tor excursion and travelling ulsers which
will show righteousness and cost In the expensive
satin silk Innings. Plain suits are also made OF the
same goods; gros grain silk 'kirts having tunies o.
ho-espun either in the Natural color or IL
Persian lilac No ornsmentation toler.
ated on eith.r cOrsage tunc; the ed.e
OF the latter pnked with deep scollops or LETT WITH
the plain selvage. To complete these costumes long
pelerne ia it pinksd and panelled In front,
and has hood in the bach lined with elk. The
capote of the same goods is trimmed with SIMPLE
bow OF deeply pnred ribbon Shoes ana snnshade are
made to match in color aud material.
By way Of contrast will mention few spring
toilets coming from the Felix establishments Greater
difference between styles cannot exist Redfern IL
thoroughly English Felix thoroughly French.
Redeem makes long rigid lines Felix drapes ss II be
were thro wing tho goods on Greek statues. Redfern
IL punctious: Felix never makes two sides alike and
often deplores tue necessary rigdity OF making two
sleeves alike. Redern looks to martial severity in
his costumes Felix always appeals to art. Therefore
Redtern's special forms suited tor street prone
nades and occasions when correctness OF attire and
plastic ht bear some analogy with the formal
decvrum which is demanded from iadirs in public
places. Felix's creations are lit ed tor carriage wear
for receptions and ceremonies in which ladies b.
approached only by their peers and therefore call
appear in the classic abandon aud the studied careless
grace which French art brings into dress.
Felix will make OF material called
bengane 1t is 50 t, most applicable to draI cry ane
does not muss In texture 1t Resembles ottoman and
has the gloss OF the sciiienne. Heorro,e, With all
the old pnks-notably the faince pink-the old
French blues, aud dull green called mgnonette will
be colors in Among the new toilets OF Felix
noticed dark blue velvet combined with the ightest
OF faded blue bengalines The plain shirt OF blue
velvet fell mass OF light blue ruIes which
showed only with the movement o. waking. The
bengane oyerdress lO0ped very hi To tne lett.
puted around the hips into all sorts OF sheIl-ike
ca, tiles, but Hattened with narrow pointed
Louis KILL Dasauc of blue velvet covered with deeply
denied Venetian point The OF gathered ben.
gane was made without darts and met the velvet
basque. Il had deep Louis &lll. velvet
collar whose heart shaped opening around the neck
was filed with thickly pleated white crepe sse The
blue velvet sleeves were trimmed with venetian
point. The cspotc to be worn with the gown lad a
transp aren't crown of Venetian point whose designs
were outlined with gold and silver threads and was
trimmed with Tut OF hit and dark blue mara
bouts topped with silver and gold agrette II bad
strings OF narrow lignt blue velvet ribbon and the
bow at the side fastened with small diamond
feur de lis pins.
Felix likes to be enigmatc in his creations, in tact,
it is puzzlng to hn out how his customers get
into his dresses For instance, over PLAIN skirt OF
heiotrope velvet with zig2ags OF new co"r called
mastic was thrown hebo;rope bepgalnc ton'c
whose general appearance gave the idea Oh pepuln
L,t, fad tn suif thp plagfle a
times There seemed to be no seams 10 the bodice;
the bengsline Was thrown over the shoulders, With
part OF 1t laid into folds under the right arm, then
carried over to the lett should there terminating
in q large rosctte ornanented with an antique silver
buckle short round waist Hith wide belt ami buckle.
For the skirt druperes will ieier the reader 10 the
intricacie. of Deplum drapery in statues they are
artistic for dress description, for they enter tue
OF c,asss m as hut notifications Of the resI
are TO be revived. There to be no more trans
nor touinures. We are to have plain skirts with
elongated panels the sides designing the bps short
bodices deep belts, and large pointed revers which
allow the display OF pastrOns always made OF DINER.
en-, material from the gown The neck VII, DC entirely
The large Drectore scoop loaded with feathers,
birds and flowers, under which the old timed merveiI-
leuse cast killing glances WILL It Is sad' pe Inc COM
ing hat TN, A..
favorite head gea 1t is made as small as ever ana
with or without strings. Many white rice and leg
horn straws, mixed separate, will be worn The
fancy Transparent sttaws mixed Win h"so
good eject The spring wraps sill consist OF jackets
for walking ulst~rs for travelling and the iancy gar
ment for calling and driving. Jackets are made some
what shorter With very tight fitting front and back
and orna.aented with row OF buttons as large and az
valuable as taste and money can anord. MANY arc
made OF different material from the gown ecr' brown
and moss green are the preferred colors and home.
spuns have taken the place OF the 9 sggy NOTED
goods which heretofore had the vogue. Ihe new
nsters have hoods attached them instead OF cspes
As for the fancy wrap 1t ia somewhat early To havea
definite idea as which OF the many new models will
take" However, il is known that plain velvets and
plain goods in general will be employed tor that
article OF .ress, and il IL still very heavily trimmed
with jet and silk passementeries The newest forms
are those which reach the tournure only. with the
sleeves forming part OF the back, and all cut into
one long lanels in front with ends are gathered into
let or pass. menterie tassels. Worth showed me two
models OF these elegant wraps which destined
for the Queen OF Italy. They are trimmed with mara:
bout, and made heavy with jet and lmtsto ns OK