The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-10-23
LETTER FROM ITALY.
Vacation Days in Fair Italia-Up in the
Mountains-Gpera in Milan.

Special Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal
BREscIA, Italy. Sept lSSL-As every body
who can leaves Paris during the summer
months. ard all my studies as consequence
coming to full STOP concluded to accept the
invitation of friend to make little voyage in
Italy and Switzerland, and to-day finds well
on the way. For my companion have usual
my artist brother Frank, who comes armed with
paints, brushes, etc., to make sketches while en-
route. Our trip thus far has been perfect success
and am enjoying It. The ride through Savoy and
near the Jura mountain was interesting, and
when we came out of the Mont Gents tunnel
after forty-fve minutes in the heart of the
earth. the Italian side was beyond description.
The ride down into the valley was exciting. for
we would whirl around curves and out the
edge of precipices, whose sides we could
look down thousands of feet 1t made it seem
as if we were riding through the air. Our first
stop was as Turin. modern looking city,
but pleasant. where We have friends. One
OF them had gone up into the mountains of
Piedmont-to Reviglasco-a little village just
outside of Turin and there we sought him. TAX
ing a carriage we climbed up and up the mount
aims side, winding in and out among the rocks
and trees. When about half way up. found
bridge down. compelling to make long
detour over the toughest, narrowest road
imaginable. We had just reached point where
1t seemed impossible to pass even horseman.
when up came the diligence. A halt-then a
parley. and finally we had to dismount With
great deal of backing and hard pulling. the
on the side. so that the diligence could get by.
AS night came down we entered the quaint old
village. l shall never forget the quiet, primi-
tive life / found there. 1t seemed as IL this
handful of people were quite alone in the world,
for scarcely sound was heard, except the song
of birds and the faint chirp of insects. The
country is rich, for the mountain is covered
with vines and wine-making Is profitable in
dustry.
One day we climbed still higher, to large
farm above u.s. and there We wandered out under
the fig and pomegranate trees What picture
it made! Our little party of white faced Ameri-
cans, sitting there, while the patrons daughter
"a child of the mountain, fresh and strong,
with her round, laughing face of rich brown, her
black eyes full of coquetry. her white teeth
and shining black har-gathered the beautiful.
ripe figs from the trees, and the brilliant sun
shono down, like halo from above. The nat
uralness of the people is charming. The laws
of society are not restraining influence. Here
we found children Of nature who are not afraid
of what my lady, the neighbor," will say. They
live near to nature and are happier for it. Con-
tentment reigns and they neither wish for fame
nor for the things not within their means to
buy. 1t was not improper for this beautiful girl
to climb up the ladder to gather the figs for us.
nor for the servant-a girl of twelve or thirteen
could not reach. to hand the ripar fruit down to
nsr mistress. After gathering some bouquets.
we had to make our adieux, for our days are
numbered, since we are pressing on to Venice
have not said anything about Turin, as it i'm
pressed me as having modern look about it, with
broad regular streets, high houses. etc and
there are other sub jects of which to write. From
Turin to Milan the ride is not particularly in
teresting. Everybody knows of the famous
cathedral-"one of the eight wonders Of Italy"
1t was while there l heard performance of
Belini's opera Il Puritani" at the Dial Verne
Theater 1t is true, La Scala holds the first place
in Milan, but the Dal Verne is an immense
frst-ciass theater. A large audience was present
and much enthusiasm regned. But to me it
was q laughabie affair. 1t was an individual per-
forman Q, since not one thought of the ensemble
of the. work a whole. Each solo was en-.
cored. End if tn. recipient did not respond be-
cause O concerted music that followed, the au-
dience made such uproar the performance
became n pantomime, for orchestra, principals
and chorus were drowned by the applause and
cheers / had the good fortune to hear
first performance of ''Otello." Verdrs
last opera here. Il is mastery work
and the performance was excellent. The
success of the evening made by Monsieur
Lherie, French baritone, who sang "Iago."
The music in Italy is of the past. 1t is in its
decadence, and my advice to those who have
cherished ideas of studying here. is to remain
at home for they find moro competent
teachers in our own country. student is
heeced out of his or her money. as the case may
be, and left in hopeless condition. Grace
Green wood recently said: Mothers. don't send
your daughters to Italy if you love Them" then
after describing something of what they have to
undergo shroue h INSCRIPTIONS teachers and low
managers. said she spoke from knowledge that
came from an experience of one who was very
dear to her-meanine her daughter. No! stay
az home if it is Italy home
CHARLES HoLMAN-BLACK.