The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-12-30
Ladies' Department.
New York Fashions.

ed for mid-winter show the extremes
of fur-trimmed bonnets for general
wear, and tulle bonnets with flower
garniture for the theatre and other
dressy occasions The fur trimming
is no longer merely an edge for the
brim, but may be a whole crown Of
fur, or else there are fur panels down
each side of the crown, with loops
and tabs placed upright in front
amid the ribbon loops of the stand
ing bow, while an English fancy is a
strap and slender bow of fur to fast
en- the bonnet under the chin; this is
very handsome and warm looking in
the short close pile of seal-skin, or
gray or black Astrakhan, or of the
natural plucked beaver. Russian
sable is so fashionable for tippets,
shoulder capes, and muffs that tabs
or panels of it are also being placed
on bonnets, where it looks rather
heavy, as it does also when made up
in tight-6tting jackets.
Gold-brocaded ribbon almost ca
tirely Of metal is just introduced as a
trimming for London bonnets and
hats. The cap shapes with SOFT
!,
crowns laid in long irregular folds are
varied in many ways. and are now
finished with fine knife-plea cap
like brims making t4iGkly pleated
mass above the forehead; this is done
not only in tulle but in velvet, the
pleating being too fatty folded to be
clumsy. Another face trimming
found to be very becoming is two
crimped pufs of lisse or crepe in
ligEss|GEs-pitk. blue or lavender
placed insly lie brim like the
ruche of widows BONN NC i les:
pecially pretty in embroidered velvet
bonnets that are put more smoothly
over the frame than those of plain
velvet, TO better display the embroid-
cry. This embroidery is done in
metal threads-gold, silver, steel and
copper-of natural shades, all used
together in a very effective way,
though gold with jet, and gold with
steel, are found to salt most colors
best.
The Tam o'Shanter bonnet differs
from the round hat of that name, and
is liked for its lightness as well as
its grace, as it has NO frame, but
merely round band fitting the head
on which single large piece of vel
vet or cloth is sewed without lining;
this is shaped to point forward in
large folds, is ornamentcd with some
watered ribbon loops, feather or
quilts used for trimmings, and strings
are added to tie under the chin. This
.sa very dressy bonnet, and far more
youthful than the demure capote.
Unlined crowns are an. excellent
feature Of winter bonnets that are
made of heavy materials, aad are al
so seen in the thinnest tulles and
laees. and in the English Grape used
for deep mourning bonnets.
New cloth bonnets for wearing
with cloth suits are covered with
passmenterie like that used for trim
ming the dress. Chamois skin with
pinked edges covers the front oil the
crown of bonnets to be worn with
gowns. that have vest of chamois
the edge of the brim and middle OF
the crown are filled in with ruches OF
shipped silk-prune, navy blue, OIL
terra-cotta of the color of the cloth oil
the gown. Arrow-tips of silver OF
gilt ard. added to the quilts now SO
much used for cloth bonnets and for
turbans. Feather turbans with an
Alsacian bow OF ribbon and pulled
velvet front are among the novelties
sent out from London.
In order to lower bonnets from
their Objectionable height, millners
are using them, as the bonnets them.
selves are not unreasonably high. A
new bow to'be placed ON the left side
and almost covering it, Is called the
ten-end bow, as it has ten dropping
ends of watered ribbon cut bias and
gradually lengthing toward the back
while above are four or FIVE short
standing loops closely strapped. On
3 the other eide of the bonnet is a close