Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-10-22

S'iidis lur uefni-toliet ana lace turning
over the dress and displaying the throat,
without ribbon or dog-coIlar Pretty slen-
der white Threats advocate the latter
In the second act of THE Grand
Duchess" Judic wears magnificent dress
designed by Felix. 1t is made of a shade
of satin now called old rose, which is very
much like crushed raspberry The tint is
entirely embroidered BY hand in large
roses of all colors. \ court martel is lined
with turquois satin. A decoration of pale
blue MORE ribbon is a mass of diamonds
and natural roses. The coronet is of sap
phireS and diamonds.
HATS AND BoSSETs.
English hats will be worn with tailor
suits, and are neat and becoming. Many
glossy beaver hats are shown also but
these are trimmed by milliners with high
loops in front of gay plaid velvets, or
| changeahle velvet or ribbon, and orna-
mented with clusters of short quilts, five
or six in 4 bunch, or with long gilt or
silver ornaments French round hats
with small pointed pokes will be worn by
young ladies in preference to bonnets.
The Boulanger, with its brim rolled up
high on each side in military style, is the
most masculine design sent over by Paris
milliners, and is shown Handsomely made
of dark-green felt with widely-bound
| edges, trimmed along the top of the crown
with green MORE ribbon loops and green
cocks plumes. To match dressy costumes
of velvet, cloth, or silk, young ladies will
wear round hats not unlike those of last
year, with soft half-high crowns and vel
vet brims; the brim is made in crescent
shape, higher in the back, and much Of the
trimming is placed behind and on the top
of the crown. The smali-pointed poke.
sometimes called the Bo-Peep, is really a
stringless bonnet, and will be worn again
with soft crown of embroidered cloth or
velvet and beaded brim, or else brim of
gilt or silver cord passementerie in open
lace-like pattern. Large and important
looking hats of velvet and lace are also sent
out from Paris, some of them with wide
brins irregularly rolled, and others with Il
broad poke front, as in the Comtesse Sara
hat, with most of the trimming at the
back of the crown, and long ribbons hang
ing from the back, which are brought for
ward and tied under the chin. Such hats
are made OF velvet, with many small
ostrich tips for trimming, and MORE strings.
Similar pokes are fashionable for misses
and small girls, wide sash ribbons being
used for erect loops up the back of the
crown, without other trimming, unless Il
very narrow fold or band of velvet encircles
the crown.
French bonnets remain very small, and
their trimming is broadened and lowered,
as will be readily seen when comparing
them with the high, slender trimmings of
last winters bonnets Felt and cloth bon
nets for general wear may be plain or with
full soft crowns, or else they are pinked on
the edges, or there are rows of scalloped
pinking forming the entire bonnet En-
broidery, which is great feature of MILL
merry at present, is applied both to felt and
cloth, sometimes in narrow scalloped rows
which alternate with velvet folds or rib
bons on the whole bonnet, or else merely
the crown is embroidered, with a plain
velvet brim, or, on the contrary, tue en-
broidery forms band for the front of the
otherwise plain velvet bonnet.
STYLES FOR MEN.
Nearly every feature of mems clothing
is continued this fall upon the same lines
as characterized the styles last season, SAYS
the New York Sun, but to be correct one
must observe sharply the outgoing fashion,
and then dress more so. The tendency to
bright colors and striking effects in the
material and arrangement of goods Is more
marked than ever. Stripes will predom-
mate, and trousers will be larger.
1t is sometimes said that man may
cover his body from his chin down with
what he pleases, but on no account must
he wear shocking hat. In that case the
hat ought to be considered first in dis
cussion of the fashions But the evidence
of a change of season is found least marked
in the extreme of 4 mans apparels-hats
and shoes. At all events, it would be
quite possible this fall to hunt up last
seasons hat, give it careful
brushing, get it newly ironed, perhaps,
and then appear in the street and claim
to be correctly dressed. But still there
are changes in both the Derby and the
stovepipe. The rim remains moderately
broad, but the roll is more pronounced, and
it turns up with suspicion of curve in
front, giving thereby more graceful effect
than was attained in the late hat. The
silk hat is nearly straight from brim to
crown, and the top remains perfectly flat.
There is much to be said about coats.
The unreasonable swallow-tail remains the
only correct coat for gentleman of an
evening and for his servant. The choice
in styles continues through all the more
prominent garments, and is distinctly
,, noticeable in the full-dress coat. The two
coats that are qualified as correct by the
best tailors are distinguished by the shawl
roll and the peaked lapel. Both are ex-
penSive enough to suit the swellest swell
or the most devoted follower. Young fell
lows will take to tue shawl roll as the more
striking and brilliant form, while the solid
contingent of middle-aged and old men
will he content with the peaked lapel.
The brilliant effect Of the shawl roll is
made the more prominent by extending the
silk clear to the edge. In the peaked lapel
the silk just shows its head and stops
at the seam. The skirts of both
styles are rounded at the bottom and
very narrow. The sleeves are wider than
before, and are finished in imitation cuffs
As to material, one may choose from light
worsteds for both styles, but the elder
dressers will continue to select light
weight west-of-England broadcloth.
The only correct coat for full dress in
the daytime, except for clergymen and
soldiers, is the double-breasted frock of
black worsted. An old man is permitted
to wear single-breasted frock ii he pre-
fers to, but he must consider that in so
| arraying himself he takes advantage of
what is special leniency of the law. The
double-breasted frock is garment that
closes with four buttons and rolls free
when open. Like the evening coat, the
sleeves are cut wide and finished in imita-
ton cuffs, which may be ornamented with
buttons, either one or two, if the wearer
chooses.
GENERAL FASHION NOTES.
Whole dresses of black or colored Lyons
velvets will be much worn this winter, and
the handsome new pushes will also be
used in the same way.
Very low-crowned bonnets have APP
peared at last, but it is not safe to assert
that it will take fully two seasons and per-
haps more to make them general.
Waistcoats for ordinary wear are cut
lower and lower, and four-in-hand scarfs
are consequently assuming portentous
lengths.