Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1887-08-14
NEW YORK LETTER.
FASHIONABLE MEN BECOME SENSIBLE
AND DIE COMFORTABLY.
FLANNEL Shirt and cummerabund In "a
vor-Anteds,es OF Mark Twain
Natural Bistofy-swell
Wardfobes, &C.
Correspondence Of the Richmond Di.patch.l


the winds this summer and settle down
10 honest comfort. The boom was be-
Gun among the swells, those who can
90 ANYTHING in the matter of dress and
be pretty sure TO have large follow
ipo' The attack was made first upon
tbe waistcoat, and in the early part oil
the summer wealthy young men began
20 parade the streets without this article
Of clothing, hitherto deemed so neces-
Sary.
The coats were worn ostentatiOusly
open and revealed plated iull-dress
sbnts OF immaculate whiteness, IN which
nestled three plain gold studs. The
lower half Of four-in-hand necktie
was gracefully tucked in the front open
ing of the shirt so IS not to hide the
topmost stud. The result was not nm
scomly.
New Workers have q great prejudice
against anything that lacks style. The
majority of the men would rather have
Their heads severed from their shoulders
on the sharp edges of n four inch stand
ingcollar than be considered behind the
fashion. They don't object to swelter-
inc behind the stiiIost shirt bosom, but
would be Mortified at a single glance OF
disapproval from those persons who are
known to leadthe styles. They are al
ways ready, however, to adopt any
new idea that is graceful and has the
sanction of society. The shirt-bosom
Therefore came into prominence ana
the vaistcoat disappeared.
THE FLANNEL SHIRT.
The next move towards comfort met
with strong resistance. The leaders
were not unanimous, and, besides, 1t
WAS a blow at the most sacred part OF
mans attire-thc white shirt itself In
its place "A flannel shirt was to be worn.
II took a long time TO convince small
minority that with the thermometer
fiuctuatinC between 90 and 10J' IN the
shade the starch in collar and shirt
bosom wOnld not remain firm for more
than three hours, and that a flannel
shiIt was therefore much more beautl-
ful, not to say convenient, than the
boiled shirt.
The leaders Of the crusade were de-
termined, however, and the new gar
ment slowly won favor. 1t would hard
" have been q thorough success even
then had not some of the writers for
the press lent their aid. One morning
the Sun printed letter from an anony-
nous writer showing the advantages OF
the flannel shirt and contrasting 1t IA
vorally with limp linen collar and
shirt bosom. All the papers took 1T up
and doomed il cditorially. Hardly a
day passed without some sheer at the
"bil,d ehirt.
TIII ThsHiCS GREW.
The spectacle Of a man with hand
lIchicf stuffed inside his collar to
keep the Precipitation from spoiling Its
Stiffness was held up TO derision. Peo-
lie laughed, admitted the corn, and
lie flannel shirt WAS n success. 1t be-
cane all the rage, and timid persons
who stil chung to the white shirt were
looked upon with pity by the enthusi-
astic wcarers of the flannel SHIRT. inc
stores that supply mems apparel could
not meet the sudden demand. Taiiors
were kept busy cutting them. They
we've made in all colors and patterns,
and in short time the most di9nitied
ard the most frivolous OF men moved
about in ease and comfort.
The style has kept up and is con
tinually growing, and the movement
towards comfort if the hot weather
continues is likely to be pushed to the
extreme. Already the stores are be-
ginning to display new inventions IN
hats and coats and trousers OF white
flannel. ponSee silk, and other airy
materials are ostentatiously pushed To
the foreground in the show windows.
The latest notion, though, and one that
has not been observed outside OF the
upper-tCn, Is
TIE CUMNRRABUND.
One night last week | attended hoE
nj a fashionable hotel i'll one OF tht
nearby summer resorts. Many OF th'
exclusive young men of New York SO
ciety were present. Twas surprised tose'
that they wore no waistcOats. In theu
stead was worn what looked like striE
of bed wound around the middle o
the body. II was about fourteen inches
wide and contained II number OF crease'
and folds, apparently the result of accl
dent and not of design. Upon closel
scrutiny | observed that the materia
was similar to pongee silk and was quit
becoming.
II was the cummerabund, and, from
present indications, it will be ali the go
and nav even result in entirely dis
placing the full-dress vest during tn
summer. 1t is strip of India silk
from which it derives its name, some
what over two yards in length, and o
Tie width mentioned. This is wount
around the middle of the body III sucl
n manner as to conceal the Junction o
tie shirt with the trousers, and also t
hide tie suspenders. The ends ar
tucked under out of sight.
IT is much cooler than waistcoat
and does not touch the upper part {,
the body. They are worn IN solid col
ors. either dark or light. The cost
one ready-made ranges from $40 I
go. Int the Six llSeil CAN no pV"S"
and satisfactorily arranged for one quar-
ter of that sum.
MARK TwAIN's PREFERENCES.
Mark Twain is in New York almos
every week. He is very much at hon
in the city, though, singulariy enough
he never stops twice at the same hotel
that is, not twice consecutively: IN
is because he likes variety. 1t has nc
thing 10 do with the bill or his method
of psyment. Mark is all right, thong
every DOW and then some old cron
from the West who hasn't struck pay
diIt since 1919 will turn up with aquee
storysabout the great humorist and h
DAVIS Of impecuniosity. Little do thes
detractors know that Mark was Gale
upon very suddenly one day to furnls
Californian testimonials to his goo
character, and that he passed throng
the ordeal in fashion that should
lence ell csrping criticism. The stoi
was somewhat thus;
As every one knows, MIR; Ciemei
first met his beautiful wife while on u
famous voyage Of the Quaker CITY, az
be pursued his acquaintance alter the
Lok af laaf tho XOnn