Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-03-05

ing recently. Is It necessary for any purpose
whatever that We should sacrifice principle taste,
Intelligent sense OF what Is fit and right and
prope-? Certainly not. There are always exam
pies OF the best-or, at least, OF better things
Have them or have hone. IL the market Is deluged
with meretrcious ornament; look for fresh violets
and cowsps, for apple blossoms or white lilac to
put on your straw bonnet, and their sweet sug-
gestiveness will be worth more than bushels OF
tinsel.
Tie new straws are as yet but the reflex OF the
old; the later designs have not yet made their ap
pearance. A notification OF the Ga1nesDorough-
always graceful design-ls prominent; and there
Will probably be apopuar revival OF the sailor hat,
steadily maintained its prestige abroad
A decided effort will be made TO revise the fash
ION In artificial flowers; the flower workers hav-
sumner and winter-of feathers. But IL they
would re-create demand, the artificial flower max
ers must return to the careful and patient manipu-
latiOn; the faithful imitation OF natural flowers,
which were once their pride. It was the falling
away from these; the substitution OF coarse,
flower trade It Is always q question whether
artificial flowers should be used as ornaments out
II they are they must be copies OF the real blossoms
-n0tearfcatures. A famous flower maker OF Paris,
used TO place the real flower beside the artificial
one; and II the imitation could be detected, with
out the closest examination, the work was de-
strOyed.
satin ribbons have been displaced by ribbons OF
faie, with deep and decorative picot edge and
clustered stripes one half leaving the other solid
Narrow, solid ribbons will also be much used; the
pretty edge adding 10 their effectiveness eSpeci-
ally when used in groups OF loops or clustered bows
and ends. Pins have become an important part OF
decorative resources. The large pins OF amber and
she'll for the hair, are now considered 1ndiSpenSa-
Bile TO the toilet and instead OF needle and thread
bOInetS are made, or at least trimmed by the use
OF small, 1ewelled pins, sometimes real sometimes
initiated, from gold and fine stones. Silver, daisy
minute starr Gold pins have cats-eye, or tiger
eye heads and there are square, Onyx-headed pins,
the heads not larger than dice. OF course there
are many, more costly and artistic; flies, horse
shoes, miniature heads, small, carved stones and
the like; but these are used for more important
purposes than fastening string or bit Of lace on
q bonnet
remains prominent feature upon hats, bonnets,
and also In hair dressing; and will, while the hair
is worn nigh. It's use is, however, confined In the
latter case to ceremoniOus evening wear. Combs
and pins she'll amber and rhine stones are conSid-
cred SUFFICIENT for dinners and informal occasions
novelty In the shape OF comb has pretty sides
and upright center, about which, waved strandsof
hair may be arranged into q ch1gnOn, and placed
In position By ladies who have not enough OF their
own to make good appearance. The high style
gives so much more distinction tnan the low
"knOt, which, Grecian as 1t Is, requires Grecian
contour OF face and figure to render 1t becoming.
The early appearance OF the blue bird In these
northern ATTITUDES perhaps stimulated the mOdsteS
TO unusual exertion. Certainly they have rarely
exhibited spring costumes of a really attractive
combinations OF fine wool camel's hair, with
watered silk, In shades of brown or grey, as well
q
the silk upon the edge OF the SKIRT panels at the
sides, single diagonal revers and high collar and
cuffs, upon the bodice. The woollen skirt hangs
In straight folds at the back and has row OF but
tons on either side OF the straight panel at the
right. The left forms a winged drapery, which
leaves space for additional characterization upon
the silk, If desired.
more elegant style for spring wear consists of
a soft long-haired, cloth skirt Embroidered TO q
depth OF a quarter OF yard at the bottom Of the
skirt in front and showing repetition OF the
embroidery In straight band up the front OF the
basque and upon the nigh collar and cuffs. The
drapery Is long, and arranged so that it falls fiat
In series OF graceful, graduated folds upon one
side. The work upon these costumes is done by
hand. In beads and chenille-in browns and greens
upon faWnS and cool StOne-cOlOred cloths.
Black tuiHe francdise is very fashionable for
Lenten gowns and for spring costume purposes.
menterie and the finer and lighter weight these
are, the more costly. The new designs in these
trimmings are Melted In mesh which is made to
show color beneath, and Is often feStOOned with
chains. This style superseded the drops and pen
dants, which, suspended by single, silken
thread have made a trail for months past where
ever the 1etted woman happened to wander. The
chains are very graceful and very elegant when
they are Of fine quality; but they need to be well
made; for break In them or In the series Of feS-
ICONS which they form upon the front, upon the
shoulder and upon the sides OF dresses, could not
easily be remedied
There are some beautiful passmenterieS how
ever, which are not dependent upon these addi-
lions. They are made in tine and close patterns.
like coats OF mail; but are light, because OF hollow
black, with bonnet To match; quaint little affairs
The crown holiows up to point at the back and
the small Dim Is split and IRREGULAR one side lay
Ing over the other, with trimmlng-leaveS, flowers
or ornaments-fn the opening between, which is q
little TO one side, not directly over the face.
But the all black are not so fashionable and do
not present effects so new those In which little
color Is introduced. Peach blossom and mar1gold
are the favor1te shades and they assist the lImi-
mating process wonderfully when used with care
anu skill. Inc color CLEANS under the felt from
the panels or side forms; from the plastron or
chemisette at the throat and the bands or nOinted
trimmings upon the back OF the BASQUE
very new style OF making skirt Is shown In
combination OF black and heliOtrOpe The skirt
forms number OF black panels (fivel, between
which bands OF beautiful 1etted paSSmenterie form
stripes over planting OF helotrOpe satin mervei
lengthwise, and the sleeves are sometimes striped
IN the same way to the elbow. The design is ex-
wear, or Tor any embroidered cottOns the drumming
OF which Is made in banda
THE POLONAIsK AND THE SPENCER"
both promise to be useful adjuncts to summer
wardrobeS. 1t Is not wise, however to make up
white cotton, muslin or linen in this way: they
Cream wool Is much better, figured Saline either
OF which make up effectively, and may be worn
over velvet, velveteen or silk trimmed skirts "A
cream wool pOlonaiSe looks well with brown vel
Vet, high collar and cuff5, over brown velvet or
yelveteen skirt, and is particularly well adapted
TO indoor wear in cool climates. Where the ther
will be found more agreeable, silk finished and
worn over soft Slken or silk trimmed skirt.
The spencer proper is for girls. 1t is pretty.
round bodice gathered into a belt, or made with a
spring. above which the skirt is fastened and the
ribbon belt placed. 1t is made In Solid silk fou-
lard. black, brown, blue pink, olive or lilac, and
has Iuli sleeves gathered below the elbow into a
deep, shaped cun, which may be covered with
lace or open embroidery matching the tint or tone
OF the skirt The skirt may be glnghan, cambria
or any kind OK white or cOlOred thin cotton or
WOODEN goods.
A great many thin wool and cotton dresses are
made with full sleeves, and for summer wear the
cum may be narrow, extending only part way over
the arm and edged, instead OF covered with lace
or open embroidery. The cOlOred embrOideries in
browns, IN brown ana yellow, in blue and red, in
grey and olive and in Turkish or Indian blendingS
OIL color, are becoming great feature OF summer
dress decoration. One way OF obtaining short
pieces In very handsome patterns is to buy the
beautifully embroidered towels, cut the embroi-
dered strips or borders OF, sew the fr1nged and
open worked ends to the plain linen and use the
colored work for paneiling or bodice trimming
THE LINGERIE
All takes the form OF the OLD "habit shirt, "uow
called plated vest, which shows that the habit
bodice Will retain the popularity it has acquired
from its neatness OF form and general usefulness
Underwear Is M RIO tod