The Portland daily press., 1887-11-05
The Fashions,
NEW 10TH Evening Post.
Condor brown is in high favor.

SpanishFgirdles Of black velvet. embroi.
dered in gold, are in high fashion on demi.
| dress gowns.
Surah moire is the name of raw silk ma.
terial designed for millinery uses and dress
| trimmings.
Silk Astrakhan borders many of the new
tailor-made gowns and jackets. The latter
are made longer than the Astrakhan trimmed
| jackets Of last year. Roman red cloth is in
| much request for them, but the choice Of this
| color renders it necessary to select only such
costumes and bonnets as may properly be
worn in conjunction. unless, Of course, the
wardrobe admits Of number Of changes,
and the ''red coat" be one of many.
Black MORE antique formed an uncommon.
ly stylish costume lately worn at fashion
able dinner. This superb fabric was made
up in combination with Roman red India
goods as soft as velvet and as sheer as veil
ing, but not transparent like that material.
The red fabric formed Marie Antoinette
bodice and tunic over the watered silk skirt.
The corsage and sleeves were magnificently
decorated with cut jet embroideries in ara.
besque designs, and the intricate and grace
full draperies of the skirt were held by special
ornaments in jet, connected by fine cut Jet
chains.
The rich corded silks with satin lustre.
the Pompadour Drocades, and the failles,
with wide velvet stripes, are employed for
the full straight skirts, undraped and I'M
adorned, which are to be in special favor this
winter.
Plain MORE skirts in black and dark rich
c0lors are worn unaer long French pol0naises
or with bodice and tunic of India cashmere,
trlcot camels' hair, and like textiles, and
also for dress occasions, in combination with
velvet and costly bead garntures
Pink. pale gold, terra Gotta, mauve and ciel
blue velvets are to be in special favor this
winter for ball and reception gowns. A fa-
nous man milliner in Paris has sent over
number OF recherche toilets made Of these
fabrics, among them dress of Nile-green
velvet, the court train looped back at each
side to show a petticoat of pink satin COW
cred with an embroidery of pearl, emerald
and opal beads, wrought in eXquisitely beau
designs of flowers, fern fronds and trailing
vines. The corsage opens in V shape over
a vest of bead-wrought pink crepe lisse, and
beyond the best are bretelles of mOss-green
velvet, lined with pink satin and embroi-
dered with the beads.
The Jean Jacques" driving coat Is a new
stylish wrap designed by an English house
in Paris. The coat Is of very fneEAustrian
cloth, is made in dark rick cOlors and is
shown in single and double breasted STYLES,
the seams tapping and double-sttched on
the outside, Large English pockets are
placed on either side and tiny one on the
left breast. Stylish buttons Of old silver
and enamel are set down the front and also
decorate the back and the pocket-fiaps One
model made Of dark blue cloth has vest Of
deep Roman-red velvet, crossed with hair
lines of blue. The hood az the back Is lined
with the same fabric.
The new round hats which appear to find
greatest favor are those which have medium
high crowns, with brims that roll high on
one side or both. The front Of the hat pro-
Jects over the eyes, but in most cases the
sides and back are close and Short. Suede,
heli0trope, Roman red, ecru, golden brown,
dark green and many shades in gray are most
extensively. shown in French felts. White
felt bonnets, with "thatched" crowns. made
of row upon row Of pinked felt, are becoming
and inexpensive head-coverings for the opera
or theatre. Golden-brown or violet velvet
is favorite garniture for these.
There appears to be an inclination with
fashionable modistes to revert to short tunic
fronts in place of the very long apron shapes
which have in most instances entirely COW
cred the front of the underdress A new
style is to drape the tunic from the centre
outwards in front, carryingi it high upon each
side, and sometimes the drapery is here
turned, and arranged from thence into
jaboted panels down each side Of the dress
skirt
Tailor gowns and jackets are still the
height of fashion, the demand for them in
creasing as the season advances, the style of
make being better adapted to heavy materi-
al than to lighter stuffs. Serge dresaes, al
ways popular at this time of year. are among
the natty impOrtationS Just received; they
are made in elegant style and deliberately
braided. They are also shown by the yard
In tlne soft qualities, and in figured and plain
patterns, the latter showing handsome dyes
In all popular autumn and winter colOrs.
The snug and elegant little princess bon
net, spite OF Its long reign as q head-cOvering
is preemlnent above all shapes as a stylish
model NO other bonnet seems to approach
II In favor, and 1t appears in every variety,
from the plain, natty one in felt, with its
pinked edges and velvet ribbon loops, or one
simply banded with fun or Astrakhan, to the
rarest and most elaborate imported duck of
bonnet, enriched with gold lace and made
OF whlte or pale-tinted velvet. Upon other
expensive shapes are Venetian beads, pearls,
cut garnet diadems and coronets, or gold
galloons, with ornaments to match.
Bronze, real gold, hammered silver, and
rlehly-colored enamels wrought in formal
designs resembling ancient Greek devices
Swiss ornaments in fligree set with half
precious gems, long pins, slides, and buckles,
are noted on PariS-made hats and bOnnets,
fastened among the full loops Of velvet and
RIBBON chous which heighten their fronts.
Fanclfnl pins set with colOred brillants are
thrust here and there upon the bonnet with
out pretence OF utility and with no apparent
aim OIL effect. Bands of sealskin, plucked
otter, and other kinds Of fur again trim the
edges OF felt and velvet bonnets, and white
SILK Astrakhan, beaver, seal, and otter form
bonnets entire to wear en- suite with wraps
Of the same fur.
The new importatons in beaded decora-
tons are simply magnificent. among the
most expensive and attractive novelties in
this line are e-patterned sets from Vienna,
~ 70 aud MI n
beaded yokes, waistcoats, epaulets, Charles
TX collars, and narrow V-shaped gilets, in
brilliant shaded effects. One superb set, in
bronze, golden-br0wn, and gold, produced a
sumptuous effect upon a reception gown of
g0lden-brOwn corded silk woven in LYONS:
this combined with velvet of deeper shade.
A trim-ftting sealskin jacket is the pretti-
est and most stylish wear for young lady
who possesses a slender figure. Upon some
of these more expensive jackets is straight
band of sable fur silk-lined, that is made to
wear close around the throat. The muff
matches this band, which is called the off
GERS collar.
White, in ivory and cream shades. and
white and silver. and white and gold, will be
extensively worn in various fabrics all win
for comparatively simple entertainments
Corsages will be crossed and worn with
fichu. Gold galloon and gold braiding will
remain in favor, and also dainty plastrons of
EOlu-DTOcdutu SduLc. Inc JOunure Will he
less exaggerated in outline, and waists will
be either round in effect, with handsome
belt adornings, or very long and pointed.
Corsages will be as varied as ever in style
even more so, and intricately and Ingenious
ly trimmed. In the matter of wraps. they
will be sharply divided the coming season.
as they were a year ago, into protecting
cloaks which will be very long. and dress
wraps which will be very short and very
ornate. much embroidered and extremely
original and varied in effect
In dress stuffs the demand for strives is
still on the increase. Princely LYONS fab
RIGS of this description are this week dis
played in the ample windows of Broadway
importer widely famed for the uncommon
richness and variety of his rare dress mate
rails. Regal fabrics Of velvet embossed satin
are woven with the alternate stripes of plain
silk plush or velvet, eight and ten inches i'm
width. One design shows a ground of pale
canary-colored satin. brocaded with ara
besQues in heavy raised design of velvet
of pale mauve tint, with stripe of mauye
and violet-shot velvet alternating. A white
satin stripe embossed with gold roses and
foliage alternates with one Of deem orange
yellow plush. A heavy black failIe Il
striped with satin and velvet brocade on
pale chamois, and a vivid shade of Neopoli
tan cardinal. Some queenly satin brocades
are also displayed. One is of orange satin.
brocaded with Roman-red velvet roses and
dark-shaded green foliage. A blood-red
corded silk is draped each side Of this suOerb
.l..H.