Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-10-01
FASHIONS FOR THE FALLING LEAF
Wooden Fabrics for Aufumn-SOune New
Ideas i'm Costume and Color.

Ideas in Costume ana COiOfs
TIE PERENNIAL PLap-REvIvAL OF PoPLINs-FoLI-
AGE EFFECTS AND CREEK DEsIGss-ARTrsrIC VEL
vETs-REcxSTLY IMPORTED Observation-Disclosures
WALKING DRESSES AND FRENCH TEA GOWNS
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, september so.
Ii viii not do to hurry over fall shopping, for
there is 50 much variety, so much that seems
attractive that one Will Inevitably repent-in the
leisure that follows-if important purchases are
made in haste. still, there Is much 10 be thankful
for IN the general features which fashion presents
for inspection and approval one can hardly
avoid stumbling over very good things; the nne
soft sergeS IN plain and plaid patterns; the re-
sStant Jricots, IN dark mixtures the comlortaoie-
looking cloaks and jackets; and. more remarkable
stiil, Inade-up wooden costumes IN comparatively
simple designs the drapery lifted and long, In
stead OF cut and punched, as the usual style mas
been, long after it ceased to be the fashion
'.What OH what shall get, for usefulness. FOR
effectiveness for good taste, and, as far as posi-
BILE include the latest ideas? Is the cry OF Devil
dered women, whose desires are more comprenen-
sive than their fortunes Wait a little and think
IL out. Where do you go? What do you 90? under
what conditions do you live? You must not get
what you do not want simply because III is pretty
to look at You can have the pleasure OF seeing 1t
but YOU do not want It; 1t would only be trouble
10 you If you had it, because it would not serve
your purpose as well as something else.
WOODEN FABRICS
Wool Is in the ascendant this season for all ord-
nary purposes and the materials fine and firm,
with more or body than for some years previously
but none OF the rough enectS-that Is. knotted
tUfted and the iike-which have had vogue for
some time in the past. Cloth Is the fabric, above
all Others for tailOr-made cOStumeS-what the
English call .face' or finished cloth and We call
brOadcloth-and IL IS in this that the finest designs
and shades or color gre 10 be found The Bordeaux
A
lin blue, and dark fawns are seen. Certain shades
OF green. GObelin blue, and mahogany or Bordeaux
red are the 'highr cOlOrS of the season, and they
are enriched or cOntrasted with or by beautiful
trimmings. The newest and most elegant OF these
are open passementeries In beads and bullion cord,
or in silk cord and gold or silver thread or braid,
in all silk cords and braid arranged tOform con-
ventiOnal palms or frODdS and Enclosed TO make
the essential stripe or border.
OF course the richest and most distinguished or
all ornamentaJiOn IL that which IS executed 10 or
der IN specialized materials made for the purpose.
the knife bTaiding in silk or gold or oXydized
silk. in such shops as Redfern-S; but these are
necessarily limited in their application, and are
not within The reach OF all oI even lasnlohaole
take OF using common tinsel II they cannot AFFORD
the best untar.iShaole gold thread or braid. They
Use silk braids, larger cords and simpler military
and more open patterns But such paSSeinenterieS
and open trimmings rs can b. bought IN the shops
are many or them sufficiently costly. Nine and
ten dollars per yard is enough for beaded stripe
less than three inches in width and OF which Two
would be required to form side panel, and the
contenting themselves with something at tenth
or less than tenth OF It.
For the more expensive designs, which range
from TWO dollars and half totem dollars per yard,
IL may be said that 10 does not take much to FUR
niSh dre5s-the panel, the vest front, the collar,
and the narrow cuffs. There is no bordering 10 the
basque, edging To the long drapertes, which
are laid as Fat as possible and In either straight
or diagonal lines
great feature OF the seasons styles is the con-
trast OF the shades or green blue and red with
black For example moSS-green cloth costume
is trimmed with black; that is. 1t has panel con-
siSting OF two stripes open black paSSementerie,
pointed vest front; high collar and cuffs are OUT
lined 10 match with this dress is worn a large,
black hat; and later Bordeaux coat OF red cloth,
with black feather trimming; or the jacket and
hat may be mahogany red with black finish.
Quite new idea Is 10 Use Jllted white with red.
For example, y mahogany-red cloth suit has a
three-cornereG rerers ON the front Of the basque
turned back and faced with white corded SILK.
The hat may be a large, white, soft telJ, with
furred border and all-whlte feathers and TRIM
mings; or II may be sailor hat or Cloth, piped
with red.
The large hats are becoming TO large girls with
plump, round faces White is used with moss
green IN the same way. A charming costume was
made recently, py a celebrated firm, or line green
cloth, with knife braidlng OF white Chenille silk
and silver, equal TO the richest embroidery. This
formed panel, vest, collar and cuffs The vest was
partly concealed By one side OF the bodice form
Ing point and being fastened over it. The hat
was all white large, with band OF the same
trimming as that upon the dress around the edge
Of the brn and group OF magnificent white 0s-
trich feathers, OF which long for decOratiO
A white bonnet 10 be worn with q green costume
was made recently. the crown or which was white
cloth, upon which were embroidered tiny birds In
gold thread and green chenille; the eyes, minutest
Specks OF ruby beads The front was full pun of
green velvet, and the garniture two white wings
held by knot or green velvet. The panel TO this
dress was OF white cloth, embroidered like the
crown OF the bonnet, the latter evidently made of
piece OF IL, the embroidery having been done by
hand These contrasts are very novel and very
striking in their effect, though less then might
be supposed, because the greens and the reds are
sort and artistic not harsh or glaring. Naturally
they should not De copied by those who can only
do so In common materials. Finest colors and
shades OF color are only found IN really handsome
fabrics, and contrast which is beautiful in rich
materials and lovely shades Is simply vulgar and
pronounced In common. SNOWY cOlors. The same
care and restraint must be exhibited in avoiding
tinSel by those who cannot afford true metal. Not
only does the gliding Silyered surface disappear
very quickly. leaving discoloratiOn and shabbi-
neSA, but the materials upon which they placed
are llarred by them and the appearance OF wear
and tear h6Steneu-
The PERPETUAL AND PERENNIAL
Scotch plaids have not been so attractive for
many day as they are this season, and properly
combined and adapted can be worn by stout as
wei as thin people. Besides the clan plaids
which are somewhat arbitrary and trim best with
solid velvet. there are very handsome paids made
In several darker shadings or plain color with
which they are combined, and so arranged that
they have the effect OF stripe, the cross-bars be-
Ing lower in tone and the high coors in faint
est lines.
The body part OF such combination is of the
plain color, the plaid forming plated panel vest
and nnish for sleeves and throat. The width is
such that eight yards or the plain and one aud a
quarter or The plaid makes 1ull dress at cost OF
Sal Tor the material
The pretty EasSar checks are best made I'D Of
themselves and trimmed with velvet They are
Snail and In lovely shades OF olive and brown
dark greens and black, with hair lines OF red
aid grayS, with black and lines or yellow Vel
vet collar and cuffs, velvet rerers or vest are
al that Is needed a. mounting, but panel may De
added, III desired, or a facing 10 the side or the
turned over drapery, should the design admit OF IT,
Inc theory upon which a check or plaid dress Is
trimmed with velvet is. that the plain, dark or
neutral wool. having no character or It's own IS
oNerpowered n put IN small quantity with the
own In any quantity with a wooden material OF
any kind by It's superior character and Richness
and Il, therefore, more effective In small uuanfi
ties than plain wool would be- and satisfies the
sense OF proportion, possibly without the indIytd
ual knowing the reason why.
PoPLINs REVIVED.
Poplins have been revived abroad and manv
handsome materials have been imported which
are Ike poplins, mixtures OF silk and wool Bur il
Is doubtful how far they stake with US. The ben.
gclines have had 10 success AT $50 or ~ nor
yard they are dearer than minor silks which h. We
been 50 much improved OF late years. while for
their price or very little more good all six raille
or satin franchise can be bought The most ar
tractive OF the new mixed fabrics are In rich
striped or other patterns, In one color. The artis