Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1887-09-04

Iofillard, James Gordon Bennett, SEN
ator Evarts, and ] don't know how
many others enough. anyhow, to put
him on speaking terms with three quar-
fcrs OF the men whose names are famil-
lar to everybody"
Something in the tone of his voice
and IN the rather amused smile that ac-
companied it made me push my inqul-
ries further. The man who was sup
posed TO know everybody worth know
ing had not the distinguished air usual
ly worn by such personages.
IVES not, therefore, so much sur
prised rs would otherwise have been
when j learned that he was Kelly the
butcher. The rest Of his name was
said TO be immaterial, but not to know
Kelly the butcher was, 1 was assured,
to argue ones self unknown. For years
he and his father before him kept
butcher-shop at University Place and
Thirteenth street. Here were cut the
juicy chops and the tender steaks, and
from here were sent the delicate fowl
and game that have tickled the palates
and pleased and satisfied the stomachs
Of a generation of the wealthy and
prominent Of New York's citizens. Ca
tering TO the stOm0chs OF these patri-
clans Kelly learned certain interesting
characteristics OF each, and some of
these he impaired to my friend, also
his patron, who in turn related them TO
me.
PARTICULAR ABOUT HIS BEEF.
Senator Evarts, according to his
meat.man, is very particular as to the
flesh he eats. Although his face looks
like piece OF parchment and has no
more color in IT, yet he INDUCES in
rare steaks and rOast-becf, meats that
contain the most blood. He is very
particular about them also His cook
selects the meat ten days in advance Of
the time it is wanted for the table, and
has it cut off in his presence. Then
Kelly puts it into his ice-box, where 1t
remains until it is sent to the Senator.
The Senator has the proper idea in
this, and it would be well if other per-
sons followed his example.
The old Becisteak Club, which has
it's rooms on east Broadway and the
members Of which are well-known poll
ticians and professional men, did the
same thing for years. For two weeks
previous TO their dinner large juicy
steaks were hung up III room set
aside for this purpose, and when they
were finally brought on to the table
they were as tender as butter and OF
greatly improved flavor. After hang
ing that way the surface of the meat
becomes black, but the inside does not
change color. The surface has to be
cut off before it is used. Kelly under
stands the Senator's wants so thorough
ly that when the latter goes to Wash
ton to attend the sessions Of Congress
he sends his orders for meat to Kelly
and he forwards it TO him packed IN
ice.
Iiere Lorillard is one of Kelly's
best patrons, and one who has stuck
to him since he moved up town. His
bill for meat alone when he IS at his
town residence sometimes reaches 500
q month and averages $500. 1t would
lie impossible for any family to spend
that amount for meat even with house
full Of guests, but Lorillard, like Ben
nett, is high liver, and aims to secure
dchcacies for lis guests that make
visit at his house a much-coyetel
privilege.
EXPENSIVE ORDERS.
His orders are SUCH sometimes that
il makes it necessary TO spoil large
quantities OF meat or fowl to get at the
particular part be desires. Thus, for
instance, when he orders ten pounds
Of chicken breast a great many chick
ems would have to be cut mp TO supply
that amount. lie would, 0: course, BE-
charged inst as much az though he had
ordered that number Of chickens. 1t
is very profitable for tine butcher, I'M
doubleday, inasmuch as he can sell
those parts of the chicken that have
not been used, and in that way get dou-
Die pay for the same article.
Nhenlt comes to orders Of a like ma
ture in regard to the more expensive
game-as canvas-back ducks, grouse,
and so forth-the orders amount to
large sums. Lorillard is a hard Gus
toner to suit, for while he does not
crnmble mt the bills he wants what he
orders on the moment. and will not
take any excuses.
Bennett is probably the most extra
vacant Of all. He has not been'in New
York for some years now, but there Is
no reason TO believe that he has grown
any more economical since he went
abroad, even though his newspaper has
lost so much in circulation. His house
hold was run on the most extrayagaut
scale in every respect. He paid man
in one of the oyster-salOons to remain
I'D all night in readiness to prepare
oysters for him at any time he might
desire them. lis orders to his butchers
exceeded in extravaganza those OF all
the other nabobs, and 81 900 month
went into the Golfers Of Kelly the
butcher from this source alone.
His servants lived on the fat Of the
land. for his orders for supplies were
on such q grand scale that large por-
ton Of the food brought into the house
had to he thrown away daily. While
his father, the man who made the for
tune his son attempted to but could not
dissipatc, lived the servants were held
in some solt of check, but even then
| tutN HUI IL i'INCShAt tAutN VI ~ '~'Ni =
morning this order came down for the
old mans breakfast Toast and tea.
These slices of toast, stamped in artistic
shapes, and pot of tea would be sentup
to MN, while the servants below dined
on porterhouse stakes, lamb.chops,
broiled chicken, and other choice
viands.
Many Of Kelly's patrons have gone
abroad in these later years and some
are dead, but he is full of stories about
them, and can laugh as heartily as any
one at the eccentricities and follies
Characteristic of the aristocratic money
princes with whom his business made
him acquainted.
now TO LIVE ON TEN CENTS A DAY.
At the gathering of scientists IN Co.
lumbia College a learned professor
fascinated his superintendent hearers
by telling them that laboring man
"needs daily one-fourth pound OF pro
teine, one-fourth pound fat, and a
= pound of carbohydrates " to keep him
J we'll and strong. If the knowledge
seeking laborer goes to the store for his
four ounces Of proteine his experiment
will scarcely increase his faith in the
: marketing knowledge OF scientists.