The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1887-09-22
ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND
The Ancient City of York and Its Min
ster-The Durham Cathedral.
The Sights Of Edinburg-An American in
Hurry at Abbottsford-Roslin Chapel,
with Its Celebrated Prentice Pillar.

justly celebrated Minister. IL ls naro TO reaiizo
that in this city of York Severus died and was bur
led. and that it is the birthplace of Constantine
the Great The walls of the old city still stand
in reasonable condition. and the feature of visit,
of course is TO walk the round of the ancient
Notifications. The walls date from Edwards
time but the foundations go back to the Roman
Eboracum and the time when the conquering
legions with their double eagles trod over this
territory. The Minister is well situated in the
center of the city, upon somewhat high ground;
but, as with nearly every one of these magnificent
structures. the location is so encroached upon
by other and meaner buildings that there IL no
point from whence an uninterrupte ted view can De
obtained. York busy city; it once
had a trade and commerce; its streets once
were filed with the noise and hustle OF the
world; but now it is veritable sleepy hollow
venerable and quiet. with sort of dim. relig-
ious depression resting upon it, in perfect har-
mony with its old walls, its ruined abbey,
and lis majestic cathedral. The site of the
cathedral dates back to 623 present structure,
parts of it, to 1000 and 1900. The cryptshows
still the massive Norman foundations, recently
discovered and uncovered. and it is the boast OF
the York folk that their Minister reveals better
specimens of Norman work than can be found
elsewhere. except. possibly. at Durham. The
features of the Minister the clevestory in the
choir not to be seen in any other cathedra its
beautiful stained glass that defes description,
and is rivaled only by the unrivaled Holy Chapel
of St. Louis in Paris; and the tomb OF Arch
bishop Walter de Grey, the finest specimen OF
cauopied work in existence. Durham, only two
hours north of York has the best situation of all
the cathedrals of England, or, indeed, of any
that saw anywhere. 1t stands upon bluff
overlooking the Weir, and be seen to great
advantage from the opposite side of the river,
and from any point nearer by on the elevated
plateau upon which it stands. Durham goes
back to ST. Cuthbert, and is rich in legend con-
nected with that rare old saint, or rather young
saint. When I was there the diocese was in a
Torment pilgrimage that had just been
made to ST. Cuthberts shrine, in the Holy
Island. The controversy ragged fercely between
High Church and Low Church the Romanists
quietly coming in and approprating saint, and
pilgrimage, and all, as tribute to the authority,
il not the renaissance, of the Mother Church.
The story of St. Cuthbert will tell why he
was q confirmed misogynist, and explains the
popularity of the Lady Chapel at the west end
of the cathedral Tho bones of the saint are
buried behind the sanctuary at the eastern end,
and when the attempt was made to build the
Lady Chapel there. the saint moved SO uneasily
and Indignantly in his grave that the founda-
tons gave way. IN the pavement of the nave is
the blue cross, beyond which woman was
permitted to go. This line has terror for
females now. however. and they como and 60 at
WILL many of them penetrating to tho very
sanctum sancrorum IN which St Cuthbert's
body finally found rest., IN the other end of tho
cathedral is the massive tomb Of the venerable
Beds. 1t ia not every building that can boast
two such historic graves. On the outside of the
iS Of
illustrating the legend connected with the found
ing of the cathedral. and the street facing the
north and east of the building is called "Dun-
COW Lane" The bishop of Durham, aud the
dean aud chapter of the cathedral deserve
vote of thanks from everybody. They have
had the good sense in the work of restoration
that has been in progress for the past few years,
to clear out the Interior that the eye can
take in the unbroken vista of nave, and choir,
and chancel, distance of 525 feet from east to
west. The hideous deformities known
organ-screens and chancel scrsens, which else
whore and everywhere else break the view and
absolutely spoil the grand effects of these grand
buildings, have been banished from Durham.
There a heavy organ-sereen. an elaborately
carved, dingy affair heavy with antiquity. but it
is confined the adjoining castle, where any
housing old antiquarian can gloat over it to his
hearts content.
ing cathedral. I sat in pew in the extreme
nave during one service conducted in the choir.
and never shall I forget the sweet, subduing
effect Of organ strain and vocal chant, through
long drawn aisle and fretted vault the pealiEe
anthem swelled the note of praise. It was in
Durham, above all others, that the appositeness
of Hawthornes figure came to me. where he des-
cribed these English cathedrals with their mas
siveness aud yet their delicate carvings and rich
traceries, as ian aath.rn strain, poured out by
devout men in ages long ago. and miraculously
preserved in stone for the bshoof of auditors yet
unborn" The day at Durham was delightful
one 10 all respects. not the least enjoyable ex-
perience being mime ease at mine inn." the
"Crown and Rose" which still retains all the
Gent flavor and dispenses all the ancient
fort, inclusive of sack to those who want it,
that so charmed the good Sir John.
From Durham l made my way to ward Edin-
boro, going through Newcastle Tyne. with its
dirty hustle and great manufacturing in Industries.
The greater part of an afternoons ride the
North British railroad through the moor
lands of Scotland, the bleakness and dreariness
OF which amply satisfied my fondest anticipa-
tons mile after mile. of miles upon
of miles, without an apparent human habtation;
now and then herds of sheep. tended by shep-
herds with 'collies some of them, possibly,
tue fathers of modern Norvals still feeding their
focks upon the Grampan hills This way of ap-
proach to Edinboro brought me to Melrose. and
Abbottsford. and Dryburg first. I do not mean
to attempt any description of either of these
places; but If there is a more beautiful spot than
Aboottsford, with it's background of the Eildon
hills, it ID worth a 1org journey to Yet
there this popularity about Aboottsford; it is
absolutely hidden from view. Situated on a low
plain abutting the bank of the Tweed, it is COM
pletely shut in, and you enter it much as if you
were going down stairs or into a tunnel. There
are many more striking sites for such
building all about, and there
are many houses near by occupying
commanding views that would seem to have at