The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1887-06-23
STYLISH SILK GOWNS.
The Latest Fashions In Handsome Striped
CoIored and Black Costumes.

sementerie and black lace. The skirt is
without trimming, except directly IN
front, where there are four lengthwise
rows of passementerie, finished each
side for depth of eight or nine inches
with frills of black lace gathered very
full to look very heavy as itdrOps down.
ward. The pOlOnaise laps to the left
side at the waist line, giving surplice
front, which is half covered with black
lace girdle that follows its outlines; the
open space at the throat is filed in with
rows of the passementerie and a lace
iabot. The high collar and plain cuffs
are covered with black lace laid in small
pleats parallel with its plain edge, and
finished on the sleeves in a curved
bow tightly strapped with lace. it may
be added here that some of the striped
corsages now have the back cut with
long seams going into the shoulder
seams, but this is only done when it
will give a more effective arrangement
of the stripes; in other stripes the bias
backs and fronts of cOrsages are pre-
ferred.
For gray silk dresses the newest mod
els are all gray, instead of being conf
bined with white, as was the fashion
last year. French modistes use gray
silk muslin on these refined dresses as
soft vests and as gathered panels, adj
ding bands of gauze ribbon across the
muslin, with gray velvet revers be-
tween. and many gauze ribbon bows
that are made throughout over satin
ribbon of the same shade to support
every loop, strap and end of this CO.
quettish garniture. Steel gray gros
grains. or the lighter French gray.
with irregular stripes of satin, are
made with the stripes differently ar
ranged in various parts of the dress;
thus the stripes pass around the skirt in
front and on the sides. downward in the
apron and the full back breadths, and are
bias in the basque front, but are again
lengthwise in the back of the basque
and in its sleeves. The pretty bows of
gauze over satin ribbon are set up each
side of the silk muslin vest, and half
way up its middle. The two silk mus
lin panels are shirred across the hips,
and set in round organ-pipe plaits be-
low, with several rows of the striped
gauZe ribbon across near the foot.
Worth sends with each fresh impOrt:-
ton new arrangements of green silks
with black lace, adding either gilt or
Jet pasSementerie for their garniture.
The black lace may be piece lace or
separate fiounces, and is arranged down
the sides with long ends of the silk
dropping down upon it, and finished
with bows or rosettes. The fronts are
crossed with four or five scarfs of the
silk, also tied in bows; and the back is of
the silk in wide folds. Tapped along the
seams and turned over in revers down
the middle.
Among the gay India silks are those
of scarlet striped with white, heliotrope
striped with green and blue with yellow
lines far apart, separated by Greek
squares or by the outlines of parallelo-
gram The gay poppy red silks have
the skirts in festOons edged with cream
lace, and in short paniers above or else
there is half-long apron over-skirt of
six breadths caught up high on each
hip. and for the lower skirt is 4 tri pie
box-plaited founce, each box plat being
shortened in the middle to point, and
edged with white Oriental lace. The
basque has surplice blouse front like
!, L. 1T ,,-onl-
quiet gown OF heliotroPe and green
striped silk very long draped apron
is used, nearly covering the lower skirt,
showing only a side-plaited flounce at
the foot. Green velvet collar, cuffs and
pointed girdle complete the cOrsage.
A demi-pOlonaise made for some of these
summer silks has the front very short,
with DirectOire revers opening over II
soft blouse-vest with wide velvet
girdle; the. polonaise part is con-
fined to the back ard sides, con-
sisting of two pointed wings made
by elongating the middle forms of the
back, and gathering sloped pieces along
the side forms at the waist line. This
polonaise is made up of dark, blue
figured surah, over gray skirt of plain
surah laid in large plaits, or it may be
of blue and red striped surah over a
plain. blue skirt. A new fancy is that
of adding third color to trim fabrics
showing two colors, as gown of blue
and primrose striped silk has long scarf
ends of coquelicot red velvet ribbon
down its sides, ending in bows, with
similar ribbons across the vest and as
girdle.
Black repped silk dresses are made
up with aprons of lace, or with jabOts
of lace arranged down each side. 9th
ers have two or three lace founces
across the front, with short, silk apron
or curved paniers. and loose back dra-
perry of silk showing no lace. Jet pam
els fer the front of skirts, long jet
fringes of strands separated to the top,
and curved loops of finely cut jet beads
are on rich black silks which are other
wise quite plain. Three broad box
plaits down the front and sides of tine
skirt without drapery are liked for
these dresses for large women, the only
trimming being square cornered pockets
set on the hips and covered with jet
ornaments of beads in rows or half
circles. Black lace over white silk is
also much used on black si,k dresses,
the lace with striped designs being
most effective. Harper RGzdr.
GAINING IN the Civ