Arizona weekly citizen., 1887-08-13

" whey hIus ah uOurlshing as those On the sunny slopes of the Spanish hills rom whence they were trsnsplsnted. plantations of giant cscti for the manu- tscture Of pulque, snd numerous scat tered hamlets wherein the poor Indians live as nearly the lives of their ancestors as these degenerate days will permit. The natives whom We meet ID these ele- vated regions seem to carry them-elves with an air of greater dignity. dispite tneir extreme poverty than their richer but more completely subiugsted breth- eren or the valley. Living "neGr to Ma ture's heart" msy not be so cOnduc. ve to rapid civilization, but 1t certainly spares the Indian that hang dog e1pres- sion which IS the inevitable result O; his contact with the pale-fsces. Those whom We meet On their way to the msr. ket ln Mexico excite our wonder at tneIr power Of endurance. They were laden With enormous crates of fruit, fowls or vegetables, or fragrant alfalfa in such bundles that nothing can be seen but 10 ass or mOvins green with pair of oi-ck legs beneath it. One had a score of yellov-hesded parrots, all screaming Pal Par ct once. which he offered for sale at twenty-6ve cents apiece.
 SIXTY MILES UNDER HEAVY LOAD Is not considered 6 long distance to these cheerful though tsciturn creatures, and many of them make the entire dis tance between Acspulss snd CuerDsvscs eighty lesgnes-in seven daysl When arrived at the market they dispose of their burden for few resles. which they immediately proceed to invest in pull que, and when their skins are filled with that mild intoIicsnt they trudge homevard happy as kings though no richer than before.
 About seven leagues from La Guards we come to the famous Cruz del Mar quis, great stone cross set up more than three centuries and a half ago, 70 mark the boundary line of OOrtezs' pos sessions, Or rather of those Indian pos sessions which the terrified empsror had been forced to turn over to him. The ridge upon which stands La Cruz del Marquis is nearly ten thousand feet above the sea, msntled by 8 msgnif- cent forest of pine, through which the coach bowls merrily over 8 carpet of vines and needles. Mean shile the pas sengeTs are on the qui vive for Knights of the Road, having been assured that athe woods are full of them" and ex- pecting to see black DO ask lurking be hInd every tree. Numerous crosses set up all along the wsyside testify to the tricks of these gentlemen, and at every yrlm memento the rugged guard cross themselves amid muttered Ave Msrias and the drivers assistant losses stone upon the cairn instead of at the donkeys'
 ,. NzEav, khaN kn ka1 aasl .rsyer.
 Whenever a traveller is murdered bareabout aud the story of his taking uff gets to town, the sympathetic natives are sure to excleim, "Pobracito! Que Desgrscisr' (Poor fellowl What B mis- hspD but that is all that is ever done about it. But the robbers. with chsrsc- ;eristic polIteness, tsrry long enough ID every case 10 bury the remains and set up a cross over them, as a necleus for he pebbles which gather. year by year, into a mighty pile-esch store being proof of a prayer ssid by some passer by for the release from purgsto 7 of the poor unshriveu soul
 In making this journey one must come prepared for more
 CHANGES OF CLIMATE
 Than are often experienced within sO hort time. Where the Cruz del Marquis stands, nearly ten thousand ( ct above the sea, fires would be s blessing; but two hours later the heat ls ~0 intense that one longs for the fashion pi Adams day. Not far beyond La Cruz the descent begins into the Ouer- n4vaca valley, and from the piDe-croEu d plateau info the burning terra cali eate the slope is much more abrupt On the western thsn the eastern coast, 70
 ha. we dash st once from one gone Q be others and while yet among the hemlOck of the mountain top, catch yhmpses of cane fields md orange owes.
 As we cistier down the hills, crossing stream after stream. the heat becomes almost insuferable, growing stronger as the afternoon vanes. We yearn to tar ,y at that pretty little Indian village called Huicpileque, whose cane cottages ,vergrown with creepers and shaded by flowing trees. both particularly sttrsc- i've. but like that cranky individual whose cry was "e1celsiorw we must sternly re- rect all such sllurements and move steadily on. though. unlike his, our way
 
 grows the country. hll apparently every particle of vegetsiion has been burned away, Not tree is ID sight, save here and there a festhery palm or cocos. which afford no shade. gorgeous masses If unknown wild flowers, vivid yellow spotted with crimson, riot over the hedgerows, and cacti towers to heights ghi ,h you would not believe were 1 to tell you.
 LIZARDS
 Are everywhere, from the tiny, bright ayed creatures dsrting over adobe walls, to big, sluggish, dust-colored fellows, many of them two or three feet long. basking in the sunshine with half.shut eyes.
 AtIast-vearied, dirty. aching and ill., ,empered-we dash into Cuernavaca amid a cloud of dust, and are turned ut, sans ceremoDie. on the main plaza iu front of the hotel Se San Pedro Immediately everybody makes a rush for the baths. which are sitnsted one block north of our hos,lery; and thence direct to supper and slumber in the inn of the good Saint Peter.
 Fair Cuernsvacal The Tlskuicss tribes called 1t Qusuknakuae, meaning "nesr 70 the beautiful hills." and still earlier Indians named it Cusnohuse, 'the flow CTS surrounded" And we'll 1t deserves .ll the praises which poets and romano CTS have been lavishing upon 1t during the last three hundred years: but We must leave its manifold attractions until another week. FANNIE B. WARD.