The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1887-10-01
cHILrs METROPOLIS.
A Description Of Valparaiso, the CONNIE
ciai Center of south America.

ciat Center oil south America.
Nature never intended there should
be city where Valparaiso stands, but
the enterprise of the Chillanos, aided
BY English and German capital, has
built the finest port ON the west coast
of South America, and commerce has
made its headquarters there. The
harbor is spacious, Its surroundings
picturesque, and ten months in the
year shipping is protected, but in mid
winter, when "northers" prevail, YES
sells are often driven from their anchor
age. and compelled to cruise about to
avoid being dashed upon the rocks on
which the city stands. A breakwater
built across the entrance 10 the harbor
might give ample protection, but the
sea is so deep-more than two hundred
fathoms-that such a work is deemed
impracticable. In the bay, drawn up
in lines. like men-of-war ready for re-
view, are hundreds of craft, bearing the
flags of almost every nation on tho
earth except our own.
The foreign trade is controlled by
Englishmen, all commercial transac-
tons are rendered in pounds sterling.
the English language is spoken on the
streets and in the shops, an English
newspaper is published, and to stran-
ger the city seems like one of her Maj
esty's colonies. There is strong pref
udice against the United States, grow
| ing out Of the attitude assumed by our
Government during the war between
Chill and Peru, which is stimulated by
the English residents. But few Amer
leans are there. the chief of whom are
the reverend and venerable DIR. 'Trum-
bull and his. coadjutors in the Presby-
terrain missionary work. aud two or
| three merchants.
The name of the city means 1.-THE
Vale of Paradise" but is paradox, as
there is no vale, and few symptoms Of
the supernal. An almost perpendicu-
lar mountain ridge forms crescent
around the bay, toward the shores OF
which descend steep rocky escarp-
ments- Hero and there watercourses
have furrowed down ravines, or bar
rancas, as they are called, which offer
the only means Of reaching the outer
world. Along the narrow strip of sand
which lies between the sea and the
cliffs the town stretches three or -four
miles. In some places there Is width
enough for only single street, at 9TH
ers for three or four running parallel
to each other, but they only extend a
few blocks. The one street, the only
artery of commerce in Valpa-
raise, is the "Calle Victoria,
circling around the entire har.
Dor, and skirted by all the banks
and hotels, the contingencies OF
the wholesale firms, the shops of the
retailers, the Government buildings
and the fine private residences. The
rocky cliffs have been terraced as the
town has grown. and the city now ex'
tends back upon the hills a long dis
lance, one mans house being above
another's, and reached by stairways
winding roads and steam lifts" which
carry passengers up inclined planes
ike those at Niagara Falls and Pitts.
burgh. What roads there are were
laid out by the goats that were form
erly fed upon the mountain side, and
twist about in the most confusing and
circuitous fashion. One has to stol
and pant for breath rs he climbs them
and the teaming is done in carts drawn
by four oxen.
| An evening view of Valparaiso from
a steamer in the bay is quite novel, Al
the lines of lights, one above the other,
give the appearance Of city turned
up on end. Electric lamps are placed
upon the crests of the cliffs, throwing
their rays over into the streets and up
on the terraces below, with the cffec'
of moonlight. During the day. how
ever, the irregular rows Of houses, o.
different shapes and elevations, cling
ing to the precipices, look as If as trone
wind might blow them overheard, or al
earthquake shake them off into the bay
The business portion of the city
along the beach, shows some fine
architecture, more elaborate than is Il
be seen elsewhere in Central and Soutf
America, there being rivalry in hand
somely carved facades and other adorn
ments. The shops and stores
are large, and contain as com
plete an assortment of goods as can b,
found in any city in the world. There
is no city in the United States of tn,
population of Valparaiso (125, 900,
with so many fine shops and such ,
display of costly and luxurious articles
The people are wealthy and prosper
GUS, the foreign element is large ant
rich, and the place is famous, as i
Santiago, the capital, for the cxtrava
gance of its citizens. Some of the pri
vate residences are palatial in thei
proportions and equipments, and mil
lions of dollars are represented undel
the roofs OF bankers and merchants
There are clubs as fine as the average
in New York or London, public read
ing-rooms, libraries, picture-galleries
and all the elements which go to max
up modern civilization. The park
and plazas are filled with beautiful
fountains and statuary of bronze ant
: marble, much Of which, to the sham,
of Chill, was stolen from the publi
and private gardens of Peru during tn
late war.-K E. Curtis, in Harper
Magazine.