The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1887-10-01
FASHIONS FOR THE FALL
WOODEN FABRICS AND SOME NEW
IDEAS IN COSTUME AND COLOR.

IDEAS IN COSTUME AND COLOR.
The Perennial Plaid-The Revival of
Foliage Effects and Greek
Designs-Artistic Velvets-Ma
cent Aesthetic Possibilities-Some
Recently Imported Trousseaux-E Eng
lsh Walking Dresses and French
Tea Gowns Recent Partisan Milli-
merry.
New YORK, Sept. 30.-lt will not do to
hurry over fall shopping, for there is so much
variety, so much that seems attractive, that
one will inevitably repent, in the leisure
that follows, if important purchases are
made in haste. Still, there is much to be
thankful for in the general features which
fashion presents for inspection and approval.
One can hardly avoid stumbling over very
good things; the fine, soft serges in plain
and plaid patterns; the resistant tricots in
dark mixtures; the comfortable looking
cloaks and jackets, and more remarkable
still, made-up woollen costumes in compare
lively simple designs, the drapery lifted and
long instead of cut and punched, as the
usual style has been, long after it ceased to
be the fashion.
what, oh! what shall | get for useful
ness. for effectiveness, for good taste and,
as far as possible, include the latest ideasm
is the cry of bewildered women, whose de-
sireS are more comprehensive than their for
tunes. Wait little and think it out
Where do you go. What do you do. I'm
der what conditions do you live! You must
not get what you do not want simply be-
cause it is pretty to look at You can have
the pleasure of seeing it in the shops or upon
some other persons back, but you do not
want it; it would only be trouble to you
if YOU had it, because it would not serve
your purpose as well as something else.
WOODEN FABRICS
Wool is in the ascendant this season for
all ordinary purposes; and the materialsar are
fine and firm, with more of body than for
some years previously; but none of the
rough effects-that Is, knotted, tu,ted and
the like, which have had vogue for some
time in the past Cloth is the fabric, above
all others, for tailor-made costumes What
the English call "face, y or finished cloth, and
this that the finest designs and
shades of color are to be found.
The bordeaux red-the castor-the sage
and moss green-the Gobelin blue and dark
fawns are seen. Certain shades of green,
Gobelin blue and mahogany or Bordeaux
red are the high" colors of the season; and
they are enriched or contrasted with or by
beautiful trimmings. The newest and most
elegant of these are open passementeries IN
beads and bullion cord, or in silk cord, and
gold or silver thread or braid; or in all silk
cord and braid arranged to form conven-
tional palms or fronds and enclosed to make
the essential stripe or border.
OF course, the richest and most distin-
guished of all ornamentation is that which
sc tod 10 in fiaii r.ia1S
made for the purpose, as the knife braiding
in silk, or gold. or oxydized silk, in such shops
as Redfern's; but these are necessarily linn
tied in their application, and are not within
the reach of all, of even fashionable
buyers. But these people do not make the
mistake of using common tlnsel, If they can
not afford the best untarnishable gold
thread or braid. They use silk bralds,
larger cords and simpler military and more
open patterns. But such pasSementerieS
and open trimmings as can be bought in the
shops are, many of them, sufficiently costly
Nine and ten dollars per yard is enough for
a beaded stripe, less than three inches in
width and of which two would be required
to form a side panel, and the majority of
autumn purchasers look and leave it, con
tenting themselves with something at a
tenth or less than a tenth.
For the more expensive designs, which
range from 81 80 to $40 per yard, it may
be said that 1t does not take much to fur
nish a dress The panel, the vest front, the
collar and the narrow cuffs. There is no
bordering to the basque, no edging to the
long draperies, which are laid as fiat as pos
sihe, and in either straight or diagonal
lines
NEW STYLES.
A great feature of the seasons styles is
the contrast of the nev shades of green
blue and red with black. For example,
moss green cloth costume is trimmed with
black; that is, it has a panel consisting of
three stripes open black pasementerie,
pointed vest front; high collar and cuffs are
outlined to match With this dress is worn
a large, black hat; and later Bordeaux
coat of red cloth with black feather trim
ming Or the Jacket and hat may be ma
hogany red with black finish.
Quite new idea is to use tinted white
with red For example, a mahogany red
cloth suit has a three-cornered revers ON
the point of the basque, turned and faced
with white corded silk The hat may be a
large white, soft felt with fuI1ed border
and all white feathers and trimmings: or it
may be a sailor hat OF cloth, piped and red.
The large hats are becoming to large
girls, with plump, round faces. White is
used with moss green in the same way. A
charming costume was made recently, by
celebrated firm, of fine green cloth, with
knife braiding of white chenille silk and
silver, equal to the richest embroidery. This
formed panel, vest, col ar and cuffs The
vest was partly concealed by one side of
the bodice forming a point and being
fastened over it, The hat was all white,
large with band of the same trimming
as that upon the dress round the edge of
of the brim and a group of magnificent
white ostrich feathers, II which one was
long for decoration.
A white bonnet to be worn with a green
costume was made recently, the crown of
of which was white cloth, upon which were
embroidered tiny birds in gold thread and
greer chenille; the eyes. minutest specks of
ruby beads The front was full puff of
green velvet and the garniture two white
wings, held by a knot of green velvet. The
panel to this dress was of white CLOTH EN-
broidered like the crown of the bonnet, the
latter evidently made of a piece Of it, the
embroidery having been done by hand.
These contrasts are very novel and very
striking in their effect, though less so than
might be supposed, because the greens and
the reds are soft and artistic; not harsh or
glaring. Naturally they should not be copied
by those who can only do so in common ma
terials. Finest colors and shades of color
are only found in really handsome fabrics,
and a contrast which is beautiful in rich
materials and lovely shades is simply vulgar
and pronounced in common SNOWY colorS.