The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1887-04-21
THE FASHIONS.

The FANHlUNN.
FEATURES OF THE SPRING STYLES
IN GOWNS AND MILLINERY.
The Fashions Of Past Seasons Retained with
Modincations- Bustle stiIl In Vogue
and Draperiss stin Profuss- High Hats
Coming Down . Little.
Styles for spring repeat the fashions
of past seasons with few notifications.
The hustle still reigns supreme, and the
large tonrnure is seen on all costumes.
The cushion hustle, worn very narrow
and high, is supplemented by one or two
steel reeds inside the dress skirt. Over
these are arranged the draperies, dis
posed in many folds and pleats in q
manner almost indescribsble, modistes
looping no two of them alike. It re-
quires no little artistic skill to be an ex-
pert draper, and dressmakers say 1t is
the rarest thing to find good one.
Some of them pay an assistant who is
skillful and tasteful in this way as much
s$2O week.
Both the front and back draperies are
cut long, as was the style last season, the
front frequently disposed in folds diago-
nally across from one hip, and pleated
up on the other side, over panel. The
back is very bouffant and full, falling in
many pleats. Skirts are of neat walk
ing. length, many of them perfectly
suiting is employed, in which case the
material, with a checked vest and re-
vers. The fashion of trimming skirts at
the side, or making them with some sort
of side arrangement to form q panel, Is
universal. A broad box pleat, q cascade,
or narrow flat panel with applied en-
broidery or passementerie, serves for this
purpose.
Basques are still worn extremely short,
cut to point in the front and having a
short postillion or few fatty pressed
pleats behind. Collars are high and
close, varied in some cases by the small
turnover coat collar, finished like that
on gentleman's coat, where It is in
tended to be worn with achemisette. The
closing Is matter of caprice. Some
times the basque buttons down the mid
die with closely set row of small round
crochet or tailor buttons, or else 1t laps
to one side; or 1t may meet only on the
bust, the upper and lower portions show
ing a vest Of white or ecru pongee. In
dependent vests, made like those worn
by gentlemen, are in favor. A stylish
dress was one made of light gray mixed
cloth and gray cloth to match, plaided
over by lines of dark and light blue and
a darker shade of gray. The skirt was
of the gray cloth, with side panel
of the plaid goods, q double box
pleat extending down its centre. The
front drapery Of gray cloth crossed to one
side, laid in very deep pleats, and the back
drapery, of the mixed goods, showed a
very pretty arrangement by having fan
of the plaided goods let into its centre,
laid In very deep pleats at the top and
failing in straight and irregular folds to
the bottom. The short gray bodice was
tailor finished with q narrow binding of
black braid, and closed only on the bust
with single large ornamental button,
opening above and below to show q vest
of white pique striped with a fine line of
blue. A high white standing collar and
small dude bow of white lawn finished
the neck. The hat worn with this natty
costume was large one of straw In q
lively shade of navy blue, with the brim
curving high ON the left side faced with
blue velvet and trimmed with a drapery
of velvet laid carelessly around the
crown and carried up at the left Of the
front, joining drapery of wide plaided
ribbon In brilliant colors, supplemented
by q bunch of blue ragged robins, tea buds
and foliage.
Sleeves are most decidedly changing in
shape, and while the plain, tight sleeve
is still in good style, the newest models
show aopuf let in at the elbow and
shoulder, or are loose in bishops sleeve
fashion, gathered to q deep, close cuff at
the wrist.
The newest and most modish thing in
jackets is the short English walking coat
Of pale tan-colored livery cloth, bound
with silk braid of the same color and
with q pocket let in ON each hip and on
the left breast. It Is tight fitting and
close and high in the neck, and ls ex-
tremely jaunty. Other stylish jackets
are of checked cloth, gray and black, tan
and brown, or very small checks show
ing few lines Of color. These are
finished with braid or stitching, and have
added either surah-lined hood or q
shoulder cape.
It may now be stated as settled fact
that hats and bonnets are coming down
from the very tall height they have at
tanned, and the newest shapes have only
medium high crowns, though milliners
are still piling the trimming up In front
and at the side. One Of the novelties Of
the season, shape that the wholesale deal
ers and importers predict will have an &C.
tive run, is the Devonshire, q large straw
hat In fiat shape, the wide brim curling
up at the sides and coming down In front
and behind, shading the eyes. A big
bunch Of ostrich tips and bow Of rib
bon, stuck through by long fancy pin,
10 the trimming; the brim being under
faced with velvet. In this shape the
crown is almost fiat, being square and
decidedly low. It is not unlikely that If
this shape obtains favor the old-fash-
ioned leghorns will be seen again.
Quite In contrast to the large shapes Is
the Toboggan, close turban shape with
its crown very high In front and sloping
of abruptly toward the back. A twist
Of silk or q plaid handkerchief trims 1t,
with bunch Of artificial fruit, for which
there 10 fancy just now; or else bou-
quet Of flowers and an aigrette formed Of
pale green shoots and stems 10 set directly
in front amidst pleating Of light gauze.
The taste for strings ON bonnets is