Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-10-29

wool, soft as down. The basque, cut with small
revers at the throat and with cutaway points dis
played at both openings part OF the simulated
vest OF white lambs WOOL or which, also, the feZ
cap and mum were composed. This was an ex-
cessively dainty and charming little costume but
II is only advisable under exceptional circuIn.
stances and for those who can AFFORD q variety OF
gowns for street wear
As a rule gray Is too cold color for winter and
II worn frequently needs TO be combined with
warmer color, ruby or amber or both united In six
or beaded trimming. Steel trimmings are revived
for use on gray cloth and silk; but they are deadly
unless mixed with Jets in black, or placed upon
darker or warn background. II Is one OF the re-
suits OF the belated way In which we get our ideas
that steel is brought TO US for ornamentation at
period when cold sharpens 1t into q weapon In
stead OF beauti1er, and moisture turns II TO rust
after few weeks Of exposure.
ruLLk FOR EVENING WAR.
Tulle has been gradually obtaining an ascend
ancy, which it seems now to have quite reached as
an element in elegant toilettes for evening wear.
The more elegant the more tulle and nothing can
be more dainty or more Desirable especially for
young women entering society, than tulle upon
satin ribbons for garniture and q hand bouquet OF
white roses The style OF the majority Of these
plain silk or satin skirt-demi-trained-ov
OF tulle covering II entirely. Round low bodice OF
SIX, draped with tulle, la Vier0e or in surplice
only. caught up In the center.
debutante who goes much into society should
start with at least three such dresses-one In
peach tint White flowers are used with each Of
these during the first season, roses being always
cansa sr W certah edches IN WINTER DC
though they fade quicker, are more youthful In
appearance, and sweet peas, If they can be OBJ
taned, are pretty with delicate peach tint In tulle
and silk or nuns yelling.
PINKED AND vANpYKED EDGES
appear again upon underwear and also upon some
evening skirts made OF soft silk in delicate coors.
the nower enect produced is very pretty, and par
ticularly well adapted TO silken underskirts; but
made In the Josephine STYLE With low, short.
"oaby" waist; short, high pun for sleeves and
straight skirt, which hangs limp and lank about
the limbs such dress was worn in gray, soft
silk recently, the hair drawn back and twisted into
the new "Greek" or Goddess" knot, and single
Daphne, white, in its own wavy, green leaves,
fastened in the breast and the pinked edges
With the round bOdices, DretelleS are returning
and possibly the dreadful 'bertha;" but it must
be hoped that the line will be drawn at that. The
last seen OF IL by the writer was upon q fat anti
Quated baroness in q London dr1wing-rOOm;' and
she was a warning 70 those who recklessyy and
inconsiderately diven forgotten past for ideas.
Ladies who have time and money, who have been
abroad, who have studied the art OF the old-world
picture galleries and the studios are copying de-
signs from Henry III and the Renaissance period
for dinner and reception dresses. OF two indoor
dresses made recently one was In black, the other
In two shades OF green, and both were WOOL COM
bined with velvet and MORE in the one instance
and velvet and brocade in the other The bodice
In the back was a naoy;en;age and TO the lower
edge OF this the skirt, which opened In 'front.' over
velvet and MORE striped petticOat, was attached.
The sleeves were OF WOOL with small high puffs OF
velvet, and there was small revers and collar OF
velvet, above which was q little "canOness" vest
and ruffle or white null and black lace. The
striped pettcoat only discovered itself In front; the
WOOL, corded and very soft, formed the skirt and
was bordered with velvet and OrDamented at the
side with knotted silk cords, from which was sus-
pended an aims bag OF velvet
The gown in TWO greens was douillette, and had
the appearance or "A double dress. 1t was open in
front TO the throat at the back only TO tie waist.
Into the back OF the skirt was inserted a box
plated panel OF the striped velvet and brocade,
which produced in two shades OF green, by means
OF cut and uncut wavlngs, very striking effects.
sOft folded vest OF crepe de chine was inserted In
the front OF the dress and carried 10 the waist,
where II Was confined by a sash. Below this the
Striped velvet formed the 'front.' ana 1t was visible
again IN cores upon the sides and In cunS below
the full sleeves OF plain wool.
THE CLOAK OF THE SEASON
like the bonnet OF the season, Is very varied and
seems TO be adapted to all kinds and conditions OF
women /. is long, with sleeves, and also without.
The popular style is with sleeves and fitted 10 the
back as far as the waist below this, laid in pialtS
10 form the fullnesS or in accordion folds. A
newer style has double fronts, the second forming
the sleeves ana hanging straight from the shoulder
made up in nne shadow" velvet cloths, and
trimmed with Labrador caracai or black lynx fur.
The design IS also adapted TO the rich braid1ng
patterns which cover the shoulders, extend en-
tireiy down the front and to the waist behind.
Mahogany red or dark myrtle green. with black
all black or dark gray reversible silk which Is
this Season-an Antwerp armure-iS perhaps the
most elegant OF all the cloakiDg materials partic-
ularly for an elderly lady This may be lined with
plush, with quilted satin or with chinchlla, and
trimmed with fur or rich passementerieS.
Fur capes and capes generally have gone into
oblivion. Their place has been taken by small
nantes, vtsites, and dolmans, which AFFORD more
protection for the arms, and are susceptible Of
prettier, more dressy effects. The small mantle
has always the advantage OF not copcealing a
handsome Dress and Is therefore better adapted
for visiting and social purposes than the envelop
ing wrap. In the South and southwest the small
wrap, which forms part OF the costume is all that
is needed in winter, In addition to an ulster or
light storm cloak, and the present forms, which hit
In closely at the back. are finished with fulneSS
like basque, and have sleeves which cover the
arms yet do not cOntne them; are most convenient
as well as elegant when made in velvet or In the
material OF the dress, with trimming TO match.
JENNY JUNE