Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1887-10-08

headed, bare-footed women, and men in
bright-hued serapes, with sandals on their
feet. Behind this plaza is group of
churches and court-yards, and just beyond
the vast snow mountain looms like a
sheeted ghost
The cathedral Of Ameca-meca was built
soon after the conquest, and is indeed
curiosity. 1t is of magnificent proper
tons, windowless of course, its grotesque
interior dimly lighted by the candles
which have burned perpetually on its
affairs through two hundred and seventy
years. 1t abounds in ancient pictures,
curious affairs and bas-reliefs carved by
long forgotten artists, and huge wooden
crosses, with golgothas of real skulls and
crossbones piled around them. Indeed,
the only thing about the premises which
smacks at all of modern days is the rapidly
growing graveyard in the rear.
There are three tolerable inns in the
town-the Hotel del Ferrocarril, near the
railway depot, the De Barcelona, and
meson near the market place.
Lying at an elevation of over eight
thousand feet, the site of Ameca-meca re-
sembles an Alpine valley. Cool airs are
perpetually waited down from the over
shadowing mountain, and there is more
than one point of view in the vicinity
where sharp minor peak separates itself
from the main snow-mass of Popocatapetl,
like the Silberhorn from the Jungfrau. 1t
has other features like Interlaken, and
though now nobody goes there except to
ascend the volcano, the day is not distant
when it will be frequented by pilgrims
from many climes.
Groups of pines rise above the house
tops, looking oddly out of place in Mexico,
and all the trees are mainly of the north
ern zone. All around the town are fields
of corn and barley, separated by maguey-
hedges; and beyond these begin the foot
hills, with many fertile canyons running
up among them, now green and golden
with grain. Then the hills rise higher
and higher, covered with black forests of
pine, till the grand old mountain shakes
off its leafy garment and stands confessed,
brown, barren and rugged. Next comes
the snow-line, its white border patched
and frayed with rocks; and finally, tri-
umphing over all, the glistening summit
of Popocatapetl wells itself in the clouds.
The Indians hereabouts believe in
GENIUS OF THE MOUNTAINS,
Whom they call CuantelpostIe They
think him queer little old man, who
dwells about the Rio del Traile, assisting
the workmen at their labors when in good
humor, and retarding them when lima
tured. The name -Popocatapetl-means
Mountain that smokes" and some invest
the volcano with the attributes of god
and propitiate him by offering gifts when
ic naaIal 30
These oblations, usually of food or the
first fruits" are buried in the sand,
and the localities marked by fiat stones
1t seems cruel to hint it, but l am afraid
that this practice may account for much of
that prehistoric pottery which NJ.
Charney and other antiquarians have dis
covered hereabouts.
To the left Of the town, across a strip of
corn-field, hill called Sacro- Monte asa
cred mountain"), rises abruptly three hun
bred feet from the plain, and is covered to
the top with a dense growth of pines and
cedars. A rocky pathway leads to the
chapel on its summit, and though the as
cent is excessively tiresome, even on foot,
hundreds of the faithful climb it in mid
winter on their knees, marking the stones
with their blood by way of penance
There are fourteen stations" along the
path, each with its great crucifx and APP
propriate inscriptions in Spanish.
At the doors of the chapel many er-
rotors are seen, some of them in the form
of crude oil-paintings, setting forth some
miracle performed; but most of them con-
sist of arms and legs of native silver hung
in glass case. In this chapel there is
figure of Christ, with the features and COM
plexion of an Indian, and on the high-altar
stands an image of Maestro Senior de iSacro-
Monte. The worthy saint wears bull
fighters cloak of purple velvet, heavily
embroidered with gold and silver, pre-
ciselv like those hourished about the plaza
de torros by swell metadores.
Ribbons of various colors, giving the ex-
act size of the head of Our Lord of the Sa-
cred Mountain are sold at the entrances
and also at the foot of the pathway. The
view from the terraces is the most charm
ing that can be imagined; and on the
mountain-top, close up to the church
doors, are many graves, where the dead
have been deposited as near to heaven as
possible. FANNIE B. WARD.