Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1887-09-12
LADIES' COLUMN.
AutumnaI Toilets Lack None Of the
Grace and Beauty that Charao-
terize Tasteful Selection.
EsqElmaux Fabrics from European
Looms, Cloth Suits Tailor Made,
Jackets and White Vests.
and Defonsive-Helps to Gift Max
ng-Hotes-Rec;pes.


50 far as the signs Of early autumn
can be resd the styles will lose some Of
the variety and grace which marked the
summer toilets, and showed the skill and
taste both Of the designer and woarer.
The rapid accession of Wealth N this
country for the last few years, among
class Thom older families scornfuiIy de-
nominate, "new rich" is now manifest
ing itself in culture that money gives
| timeand means for acquisition. Euro
pesn travel, and hours spent amid works
| Of art IN galleries and museums have led
TO the revival OF much that is graceful in
| drGping, and captivating in color. No
! longer are fashionable women servile in
imitation, but show originality and indi-
yiduality IN the matter Of costume. Some
daring woman siezes upon some artistic
idee, and despite prejudice in
others soon makes it apparent
that it is both becoming and
suitable, fairly demonstrating that what
ever article Of dress combines beauty
ard convenience, woman Of taste may
adopt Snd thus creste mode.
The Illustrations IN the September
fashion Journals all show the tailor dress
in various notifications, but agree in
saying that it is now more strictly than
ever c0r1Qed to the street. These are ell
shown with vest, which adds lightness,
grace and finish 10 this otherwise severe
costume known IS tailor gowns" The
COrsage Of some has e rolling collar, and
is fastened st the bust with . single bat
ton; from there it is cut away jacket
fashion, long enough over the hips 10 ed-
nit OF 8 square pocket. The vest is OF
white, with hign collar and necktie, the
sleeve loose coat fulled 8 little into Ghe
arm size end finished at the hand by a
thin back cuff, with button. The founda-
ton skirt is perfectly plsin, not even
8 fOOL TUtllG is permitted, aud the
! dTapery consists Of these pieces. The
5 fuiluts5 Of the front is gathered i'll small
+ pleats ct the bottom of the waistCOat neal
: the buttons, and this draperY falls Il
: long points on either SIDE nearly 10 the
bottom OF the Skin Tire whole being vel
drswa back TO the sides in order 10 dis
/. play the frCnt. The back drspery hang
5 IN long straight folds. the tullness being
= held in two triple box pleats.
Another mas traiding for trimming, ;ht
: fjtCket, open low with revSrs, has tire
buttons on each side aud the fronts art
j. cut straight across ct the waist line abou
c an i1ch and half each, when the perpen
r dicular cut extends about five inches L
the bottom OF the JACKET which is contin
ued IN q graceful round to the back. Tn
W&istCoaL in Of white with collar of IN
same; al is elGborately braided. TIL
skirt has PLAIN front with braided OF
nament extending half the length
and the sides hsye eac
three wide plests with q smaue
ornament OF braiding en- each; the bac
simply boufant pouf. The sleeve
button closely Ut the wrist with tire
buttons.
With both these toilets are felt lats
corresponding IL color TO the dress, hay
ing high crowns, turned up brims face
with velvet, and cocks plumes and hig
loops Of velvet for trimming.
There is hint that IN effort is maxim
to lengthen skirts SO that they touch th
pavement, but as this is so undesirable
street dress it is to be hoped the goo
sense of woman will prevail over ST.
\ such ahsurd dic;um Of fashion.
i The fashion journals speak Of ne
clothes being shown extremely heavy gu
coarse. These will hardly tad favor
southern ATTITUDES where there are
few days in which to wear such fabric
They are said TO be so heavy as to see
more suitable for carpetiug and tspest.
thsn woman's wear.
) PlGids still have their place. They S
generally used for the lower skirt
the vest, collar and cuffs; in the san
way striped and figured material is use
B A lingering perchant for white, so pop
q lar during the summer months, IS show
- By its use in narrow stripes in mater
used IS described. Pain clothes, smoo
faced and rough are being largely il
- ported, and for these in all cases yelY
ar forms the favorite trimming.
IS So fashionable has braiding becon
q thst fabrics are now woven in which Ii
ne is simulated in velvet upon silk in son
i. of the richest Arabesque designs.
L A city paper gives the following de
e.g cription OF an Imported Partisan tt
.ee gown which is novel and beautiful.
was made Of mohair canvas cloth, robin
egg-blue in color. The back had 9 Wa
ee teau pleat, and there were two front
= one tightly fitting the hgur
. the other opening over it and fallil
like spring OvercOat. twas materi
H. that allowed Of the pulling of threads,
=. for hemstitching. Tie under front hi
I'd ten rows, in each of which six thres
had been pulled, and ribbon, half an in
. divide, run in and out, over and undt
~, There were several rows down the han
Or ing outside front, and as many on t
ID, Watteau pleat behind. The sleeves &,
collar were entirely covered with the ri
lat bon pulled into the drawn spaces. T
I "a ribbon was lovely rose color, and W
watered. The manufacturers are getti
cir up hundreds Of these pretty tastei
ll5e gowns, principally in black material, wi
.ch crimson ribbon run in. Cashmere
merino can be drawn in this fashion,
ing the soft threads are difficult TO draw Q,
n and do not make SO smooth and even
T, appearance SIS harsher fabric.
Hsrper's Bsz.r is authority that
S. travelling and short excursions there is
preference for steel gray slapaca, usus
nd made with skirt pleated all around 8
oe Jacket OF the same, opening upon VI