The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1887-04-22
Ladies' Department.
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

blOuSG WubSbS WAN OCAbS 0A obV~SN
and basques with blouse fronts and
girdles, are favorite bodies for i'm.
ported dresses of light fabric, such
as lace, gauze, canvas, crepeline, In.
dia silks, and the pretty old fashion
ed lawns that are revived by the
leading French modistes. Full soft
draping over the shoulders and bust
is feature of the waists, and for
this reason many have biased fronts,
especially for striped or plaid mater
ials; and some are Tapped in surplice
shape from right to left. The shir
ring about the neck may be in very
fine close rows, or the threads may
be separated by small puffs between.
Full sleeves are in keeping with
these full waists, and may be the
mutton.leg sleeve with deep cuff and
soft puff above, or else the outside
pushed up in pufs to the top, or
perhaps the fulness is equal at arm
hole and wrist, with merely wrist
band for finishing; most OF them
however, are made over lining fit
ted to the arm, and we may add
that the sleeves with series of puffs
around the arm, such as English
aesthetics wear, do not find favor
with. the French designers. The back
of basques is gradually becoming
much longer, and may be plain or
shifred, or cut with bias forms; the
figures of brocade or stripes must be
considered and matched we'll. The
blouse. basques are compromise be-
tween the plain and full waists that
are found very generally becoming,
and are seen on both simple and rich
dresses Their blouse front reaches
only to the wrist line, and is finished
there by being buttoned over vest,
or held by a wide soft girdle, or else
by pointed ribbon glrdle, some.
times doubled in two points folded
i'll shape, and finished with loops and
hanging ends directly in trent. Belts
of gilt galloon or of silver and richly
beaded belts are also much used,
with dog collar and wrist bands to
match.
To give details of such a dress, an
excellent model is Of Suede colored
canvas with white wool fans, gilt
galloon belt, and long scarf for a
mantle. The round belted blouse
waist is made over silk lining, fit
red with darts and side forms, and
well whaleboued. The canvas out
side then shows no seams but those
under the arms, being shirred in
rows around the neck, and gathered
at the waist line, where it passed un.
der the gilt belt. The fronts of the
lining are faced with white serge
and closely huLtoned up. serving as
narrow white vest, showing under
the blouse fronts, which do not meet
and are finished down each edge with
a ruffie of the canvas laid over n ruf-
fie Of the serge; these frilis have
selvages not hems--are laid closely
together. and are Two inches wide on
the bust, graduating to nothing at
the throat and waist line; similar
ruffies are around the armholes, the
sleeves being plain there, and shir.
red to q velvet band at the wrists.
High standing velvet collar; white
gros grain ribbon doubled to show
both edges is inside this collar, and
large white bow outside on the left.
The skirt has fan pleatings of white
wool barred with Suede.color insert
ed at intervals. and very short ap-
ron over skirt falling in two points
behind, on winch velvet ribbon is set
and along under this ribbon is plac.
ed white serge with selvage finish.
The scarf mantle is one long straight
piece, with deep collar OF pleated
serge, finished with ribbon and white
wool edge like that on the over
skirt.
Mohair dresses, dark blue, and
Suede-color are made up similarly
to the canvas suit just noted, and
are to serve for morning shopping
and summer travelling dresses. The
basque with pleated or surplice
fronts is also liked for these mohair
dresses, while still others are made
In regular tailor fashion, with a pos.
tillion basque and rows of stitching
for trimming.
A novel idea introduced by Worth
is that of using Scotch plaid silk
under black lace skirts, catching up
the drapery with black, red and vel
low ribbons folded over each other.
These gay Scotch colors are seen
barred across black MORE antique for
the skirt and the basque Is then all
black, being made of black MORE in
stripes, or else of bands of MORE
separated by wide insertions of lace.
With other dresses that have entire
skirts of black laceor of satin.striped
black gauze, curved in many festoons
aud edged with lace fiounces, the
basque will sometime have vest of
the richest brocade, with cream
ground strewn with roses, blue and
green figures, usually flowers and