The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1887-10-25
THE FASHIONS.
Winter Styles to be Started by the
Costumes of a French Play.
New York Post.l

New York Post.l
Pretty shoulder caps of crocheted zephyr
wool are worn by school girls.
A chief feature of many of the autumn
mantles is the peplum fronts, falling straight
and square and gathered at the ends, and
finished with beaded ornament. The ma
jority of these wraps however, are short on
the sides and at the back.
Jackets are still very popular, especially
those which just fasten at the throat and
then open broadly, revealing a trim-ftting
vest that is elaborately decorated with bead
ing embroidery, or silk cord ornaments in
applique.
Fur trimming will prevail. and the blue
fox, golden brown beaver, and the gray mou-
hon promise to be favorites next to the ex-
pensive sealskin. The long, graceful iur boa
retains its hold, and is likely to do so.
Gilt and silver are much used for millinery
purposes In cords, embroideries. bead trim
mlngs, in appliques and natalie ornaments
of every shape aud description. French bon
nets in dark autumn shades are imported,
garments showing mingling OF velvet loops
gilt foliage, and aigrettes dotted with tiny
gold bobs. Very often there is a fine vine
embroidery of gold at the edge Of the brim of
the bonnet.
These officers collars and also fur boas
and other like wrappings for the throat,
although stylish and becoming to the wearer,
are hot approved by the physicians, who in
variably condemn too much wrapping round
the throat. To those possessing beautiful
voices, who wish to preserve them unimpair-
ed, the doctors always advise discarding any
thing that shall produce undue Precipitation
about the neck. Silk wool, or feather trim
mings of light quality are urged as better
and safer protection.
There appears to be an unusual demand
for silk-faced velveteen. This fabric is made
up very frequently with blocked, striped, or
hecked surah, in gay Roman colors. 1t is al
intermixed with corded silk in the draper
les of the skirt. Plain untrimn ed skirts of
dark green, golden brown, or terracotta vel
veteen are worn beneath Russian po)onaises
of tweed, Irish blarneys in block designs,
Lincolnshire suitings, and camels'-hair and
serge fabrics in monochrome
Feathers and birds, notwithstanding all the
protests from delicate-ndnded people. both
here and abroad, against the barbar0us style
of so called ornament, are the trimmings
mostly used on winter hats and bonnets.
Sometimes both are seen upon one hat again
there is bird alone, draped scarf OF velvet
looms completing the decoration. TINY hum
ming-birds, with throats of gold, large gray
and white doves, sable-plumage ravens, the
feathers of the golden pheasant made into
montures, and impeyan feathers in natural
colors are all in great use. Entire crowns
are made of fine feathers, the gray and gold
en-brown shades are prevailing, with decor
ations chosen to harmonic.
MANY of the newly improved novelties at
test the popularity of yellow. Both in dress
and millinery, various shades in this color
are shown, deep orange, sulphur, buttercup,
new gold, canary, golden-rod, wall-fower,
and beige being made up in conjunction with
black velvet, and also certaiO beautiful rich
shades of Roman bronze or golden brown.
Panels of rich yellow Lyons satin, striped
with golden-brown velvet, are not infre-
| auently set into the shades Of golden-brown
velvet or plush skirts, with vest of the stripe
| and Louis XIV. jacket, draped across the
| front with golden-bronze bead-ehains and
| pendelooues. Occasionally there is only one
| panel. on the right side Of the skirt, and in
| this case the drapery each side is held by
cords and ornaments matching those on the
Many of the new patterns and materials
| look exceedingly well for a skirt which are
| altogether unsuited for bodice Such, for
| instance, is huge broad check of plaid. A
| bodice made of such pattern is Becoming
neither TO the little nor the large be it evei
| SO perfectly made and fitted. But if this ma.
| terial is relegated to well-draped skirt
| worn with a dark Jersey matching ore of the
| colors in the plaid, or with velvet bodice
| the effect is wholly changed. In the latter
| case there are often noted vests of the plaid
this cut in bias folds and laid diagonally
over the chest,the folds tapping one over the
other from the shoulders to the waist
Bonnets of fine dark straw, following an
English fashion, will be worn all the fall anC