The Washington critic., 1887-03-31
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON.

by Lingering winter-The --latest
In woolens - Jackets and short
wraps-Miliinery Notcs-New Colors
What to Wear for the Next Three
Months.
Jet seems TO lead the market again, and
the variety In which 1t is introduced seems
endless.
Bonnets of white, pale pink and mauve
plush are worn In the evenings at theatres
and the opera.
Leg.of-mutton sleeves and sleeves with
the Marguerite pun at the elbow are seen
on dressy indoor frocks.
Bead piquets are almost "a much used as
flowers for garnture of small bonnets.
The lighter shades OF brown, all shades OF
gray, and hellotrope are especially popular
at present.
Tailor-made Jackets OF ksrsey cloth are
quite the rage
The spring jacket is tight fitting, OF ne.
dium length aud very plain, and Is made OF
medium and lightweight cloths, principally
checked and hair-line English woolens,
the smooth French cloths, the wide and
narrow wool 1iagonals aud the fine broad
cloths finished with raw edges, or narrow
binding of silk braid or single stitching.
Small beaded mantles aud short wraps are
still In favor for dTessy occasions, aud
number Of lovely shapes are being shown.
A beautiful new reddish purple shade is
called Anemouc, and 1t is pret,ier and more
g,nerally becoming than the hard purple
ard heliotrope tln,s.
"Novclties" in white wool fabrics are
shown striped with hair lines OF golden
brown, dark blue, pstache green, cardinal,
black, heliotrope, copper and new terra
Gotta.
Among the pretty accessories to the toilet
is a band OF ribbon, simply tied inside Of the
NJ In de hu,. rtt,s, La
shoulder.
In using plaid and plain materials In
combination the back OF tho bodice is made
OF the plain material, and the front OF the
plaid.
Fine English cloths ore woven In checks
and blocks OF two to five different colors.
These are for street wear, travelling suits,
In fact, for every use except ceremonious
occasions. They are also very lady-like and
stylish for house wear, and when trimmed
with bows and loops of ribbon are dressy
enough for home wear. For the street they
must be severely simple.
Among the wooden dress materials for
spring wear are extra fine ladies' cloths, in
Pale heliotrope, chamois, maple leaf and
chartreuse green, pale copper and terra
Gotta, amaranth and cream yellow and
bisque blue.
Brooches representing an oyster shell,
upon which rests tiny crab In red enamel
.Te bizarre fances Of the hour.
A pure white chuddah cloth is used In
combination with an inch stripe Of black
and gray velvet, brocaded in chine effect on
white wool ground.
Peau de Soie,::a comparatively new silk.
which has been limited to the lightest and
most delicate shades OF color, is now being
produced for mourning purposes, and ac
cords better than any previous silk fabric
with the sombre effect and peculiar black
of Grape.
Both for evening and morning dresses
leading dressmakers are using either mar
row gauze ribbon, or plush ribbon with
fringed edge, which is set around the tops
Of bodices In loops
A light pink that Is to be found In velvets
and which will he used mostly in combina-
tions with black lace, and some shades OF
gray, is called Charles y. pink. This is a.
most identical with the once popular Ma
genta.
The new bonnets are longer and higher
from the brm to the crown, and these
crowns are both quaint and curious, many
of them Of the nature OF the horseshoe,
but quite different.
Apricot, rose color, copper, pale terra
Gotta, bisque blue, the regular old-fash-
Toned green and new shade of golden
brown are prominent among the colors
' used in Paris for day costumes.
The fancy straws are not only to be had
In varied materials and forms OF plating
but In mixed colorlng brown and the light
4 natural tones, red and white, blue and red
and many Others
A small mourning bonnet is made of the
new polka dotted Grape, with silk en-
broidered spots. There are loops of Grape
and mat Jet ornament for garniture. Gros
grain strings.
' The sleeve, with deep puff from the
N shoulder to tie elbow, falling over a close
fitting cuff, will be greatly patronised for
summer silks, sateens and canvass dresses
The Wagner cap OF knitted wool or jer-
sey cloth, enriched with band and top tas-
sci Of Astrakhan, is worn by little G rls as
well as small boys.
Aerecial fabric has been brought out for
tepDis-a llama, but with quaint mingling
of tones, such as cream, yellow, electric
\ and red, sky gray and cream, coral, blue
and mousse, pink and green, forming
checks. This stuff is peculiarly well
adapted to the purpose, being light as to
weight and effective In coloring.
Owls are popular in iewelry at present,
and the design OF one seated on crescent
moon is carried out In either rose diamonds
or pearls, as bangles brooches or pins.
The newest cloaks for little girls have
waists reaching only to the armpits, more
like deep yoke than waist, and skirts
falling to the ankles.
Wraps for early spring are TO be ma lie o
the plaid and twilled wooden gODls, will
pretty little satin-liued hoods, thas; last
detachable.
Stripes seem about to divide popularity
with the plai0s.
New white WOOL camel's hair, albatross
and imperial serge fabrics, for drcssy spring
gowns, will be Trimmed with heavy wateret
ribbon one aud a-quartcr inches Wide. 1hil
will be placed In rows upon the oycriress
both front and back.
With all light materials the bodice gath
cred like chemlsette on to baud rount
the neck viii be very fashionable, but be
coming only to ladies with slight figures
Those who, on the contrary, are gifted will
rather too much OF figure will still adhere
to the plain bodice peaked In front.
The newest embroidered nounclngs o
ekirtipgs Of thin materials nave the lowe
edge straight or in tiny scallops, instead o
the pronounc ID outlines of previous sea
sons.
Cottons and washing gowns are to b.
4 much worn in the coming season, and I
great effort has been made to render then
durable in cooriug, for half Of them whei
I washed lose their beauty; but this is no
SO important, for they will almost last
summer with care without recourse to th
wash-tub.
A unique black lace bonnet has pleats o
rose co0red velvet on each side OF tn
fToDl, IAsteneu WIN cdt Jet ornaments ani
bordered with handsome black silk lace
The trimming loops and strings are o
black corded ribbon, with crochetel edge
and there is a cluster Of rose-colored velve
flowers on top.
White laeouet aud nainsook are embrc I,
cred in cOlOrs, or have color intermixot
with the white or cream embroidery, .
heliotrope, brown, pink or blue. Flouace
foIiy-dye inches deep of pale blue, maize o