The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1887-09-24
The Fashi ons.


Belted corsages are more than ever in fash
ion.
Bronze, golden brown, beige, tan, and all
the tawny yellow tints of wood color are very
fashionable this season, both here and
abroad.
Many of the new open house. jackets are
worn above loose vests made Of Spanish net.
At each side of this blouse, under the jacket
and at the pelt, are sewed the ends of two
long lengths Of MORE ribbon. The one fast
ened at the right side is brought down TO a
point several inches below the belt, and just
in front through silver buckle or slide, and
then fastened securely. The ribbon is then
carried up to the left side and tied in with
the second length and there fastened, the
loops iDclining towards the front of the skirt,
above which they fall.
Graceful and simply fashioned polonaises
are displayed, made Of plain cancels hair,
limousine, or India cashmers over striped or
blocked velvet or plush skirts. The polonaise
is Tapped to the left hip, and has revers or
panier ON the left side only, while the front
drops in long-howing drapery. The back
is arranged in straight full pleats and is open
up the sides and middle to display the rich
skirt beneath. The V-neck is finished by a
plastron Of the material of the skirt. This
is shown in dark Russian green cloth
over velvet skirt Of golden brown and dark
green, while the dark green polonaise Is
trimmed with handsome appliques bands OF
golden-brown silk gimp.
Shot, or changeable, velvet Is among the
handsome millinery fabrics used this season
The velvet is corrugated or ribbed, and some
of the patterns are Of superb col0ring, chang
ing in sheeny lights from gold to scarlet,
green to Roman red, or red to orange yellow,
golden brown to Gobelin blue, and like beau
tiful variations. These materials are en-
ployed both for bonnets and hats entire, or
for trimmings to headcoverings OF plush, vel
vet, and French felt.
The rage for white toilets which has lasted
all summer will continue through the autumn
and costumes Of yelling, nuns cloth, serge,
etc., will be worn out OF doors until the
weather grows decidedly chilly. Pretty tails
or gowns are made afresh; for this purpose
dark cOlored velvet ribbon in straight rows
or put on fancifully, being the very appro-
pirate garniture. A lovely dress OF cream
white Ursuline cloth, recently completed Is
finished across the front and side breadths
with long half-panels that lap one, over the
other, the panels reaching the entire length
Of the skirt These are decorated with five
rows of black velvet ribbon. In the back is
full draping, with cream-white MORE sash
as finish. Above this Is stylish Babet
coat of black velvet opening over cream
white silk blouse vest, dotted with black.
En- suite Is a wee cap bonnet Of the velvet,
trimmed with white velvet marguerites.
Basques and bodices are gradually being
heightened to cover the hips more deeply.
The vest, the plastron, the separate waist
coat, the pleated shoulder pieces, the demure
nuns corsage with folds tapping each other
over the chest; the surplus front, tapping
from right to left, the revers Of all shapes
and kinds, are seen on the new Paris dress.
es. 1t is almost impossible to make the front
OF the bodice too dressy in effect, or to go far
astray in the design, as the variety Of models
is now so limitless that any style becoming
to the wearer Is in good taste. The broad
and snowy directoire revers gives the effect
of breadth, and are seen alike on the richest
and simplest gowns. Collars remain high
and close, often to exaggeration, and are fire.
quently made Of two fabrics, the one In front
matching the vest or plastron, and the one
on the sides and back Is OF the third material
used for garniture, be 1t braiding, embroidery,
contrasting fabric, or cordage silk finished
with French pipings Of the same, or Of white
or silver.
Rich hued and pale-toned tulles. with vel
vet in dark colors, form combinations for
autumn dress hats. Roman red tulle, COM
bined with golden olive velvet Is a popular
trimming. The combination OF tulle with
velvet Is also very handsome In apricot, al
mOnd, biscuit, or golden brown tulle, with
very dark brown velvet shot with gold. Some
very slender curved feather quilts, beaded
with copper, form high aigrette in front.
For gayer hats an English novelty is the
''Zingari," large black gypsy-like hat, the
brim underside finished with bias band of
bright red velvet an inch and a half wide.
Outside is a scarf OF bright red tulle, dotted
with black velvet figures. In front the tulle
is arranged in high, airy loops, into which Is
| set large cluster Of scarlet velvet peoples
mingled with number of large black velvet
leaves. A black bird made Of jet adorns
| hat similarly trimmed.
Vests and waistcOats of every description
| long and narrow, short and full and ample
| and expansive, like the old Continental gttet
are all in high vogue again this season.
| These are made variously of white broad
! cloth, richly braided or covered with bands
of silk gallon; also Of ehangeable velvet, rib
bed plush, heavy corded silk laid on in dag