, 1887-05-12
A suMMERLEss LAND. ~.-e
Mexico and Her Groat, Flat, Even Tom
pered Table Land.
Especial Correspondence

~ Especial Correspondence
HOTEL ITURBIDE,
City Of Mexico, April 20.
Up to the year 1884 those who knew and
those who did not know agreed In not recon-
mending tour to the paris Of America"
the weird City Of Mexico, in the spring or
summer. The average Yankee thought Of
the far south In summer as mixture OF ex-
terna heat and internal fever. The
American colony at the American Paris
know that this is true Of the TERRA
caliente, or hot lands Of the coast,
which had then to be traversed to gain the
capital, lying In the TERRA fria, or cold lands;
unless, indeed, the tourist intended to enter
over the Rio Grande and 60 over the whole
length Of the country by stage. Now, the
Mexican diligence was never inviting, and
the 'oddness Of seeing the drivers assistant
pound the mules with stones was poor CON-
pensation for starting at o'clock In the
morning, to reach nothing moro inviting
Sc ialor Of the next hotel dili~encias
On that tremendous table land, the nat top
of the most enormous mountain on the globe,
where the great cities Of Mexico are situated,
there is no summer. At the City Of Mexico
the temperature never goes above 70 degs. at
any period OF the entire year. Woolen un-
der clothing Is worn all the year round, and
blanket wherewith to supplement his over
coat IL essential to the tourists comfort. And
now, since March 8, 1884, to this wintry city
Of the tropics-being 7,347 feet above the sea
level-goes an American railroad built all the
way on the great plateau, giving the traveller
a constant picnic at an altitude higher than
the submits of some Of the Alps.
The barriers are broken and nothing re-
mains to keep the most fastidious lady, the
most delicate invalid, from visiting. winter
or summer, the Italy Of the Occident-glor-
Gus, CORY Mexico" Since all the conductors
and trainmen are Americans, and the proprie-
tors of the best hotels and restaurants are
American or French, while our own ne
groes have turned hack drivers in Mexico,
even the Spanish language is not at all esssen-
tial In this "New Spain"
The Hotel lturbide Is named from the COM
bination or liberator. emperor and victim,
whose palatial residence 1t was It's restaur-
ant, under French proprietor, is excellent,
but not cheap, though one should remember
in connection with the prices that a Mexican
dollar Is bought for eighty-fve Of our cents.
1t is a constant source Of surprise and won
der that the largest and fines, gallery Of
paintings on tue western continent is here on
the site of the Aztec Venice. To see priceless
works OF the T.go,can "old masters'-Muril-
10, Rubens, torrc~,N, N,'--Juez, etc.-we
need not cross the ocean; here tney are in
close proximity to such indigenous outgrowths
of religion rs the Sacrifcia rock, on which
more than 6O,000 living human beings were
inundated by piercing the breast with a razor
of volcanic glass and tearing out the still
beating heart to throw at the feet of the god.
1t is very hard for us to realize caunibalism,
yet these victims were actually cooked and
eaten.
The unmixed descendants OF these canni.
balls still swarm about us in this city OF more
than 225, 900 inhabitants, for everywhere in
Mexico the natives, without the slightest ad-
mixture Of European blood, are vastly in the
majority.
The greatest Mexican who ever lived,
Benito Juarez, was pure Tzapotec, a race
ruled both temporarily and spiritually by an
Indian pope infallibe and sacred. Thus the
rule which succeeded them. that Of our popes
of Rome, was finally broken by one Of their
hereditary subjects.
The man who started as revolutonist
against Juarez, and who now runs all Mexico
Porfirio Diaz, is a Mestizo, Us the mixed race
from whites and natives are called. But per-
haps the pleasantest way to get an idea Of the
three great castes Is from the women. As
typical OF the whites, look first at this sweet
young lady in the rich black silk
dress, q perfect Spanish creole Whyl
you excaim, she Is out without her
hati Yes, but in all probability she
never had one. That costly bit of black
lace, her mantilla, goes witchingly over her
lustrous black hair. Is far more romantic than
any hat, and gives you feminine hint of the
luscious quality Of the climate. Note, il you
can, tho world famed Andalusian foot and
ankle. A highly educated western girl told
hail Ixar .,laoas "a n.,.I Ill
Monterey, city Of 40, 900 inhabitants, a shoe
large enough for her to wear. A glance at
this young creole may hint the explanation.
II Chinese women we're Spanish their feet
would not be bandaged.
The creoles in Mexico seem far whittier than
the women In Spain, and have a more del
icate look, as Of tropc fruit. Notice the rich,
pouting lips Of this little lady, her sparkling
eyes and airy grace. That she can play,
dance and sing like siren goes without say
ing. The pure, soft, Spanish vowels leave
slowly that sweetest mouth.
Involuntarily you think OF guitars, trouba-
dorJ, mandolin, serenade, love, jealousy, pom
lard, stiletto. A new light perIneates the
heavy iron bars covering every window, and
making every house resemble lunatic asy-
lum.
You determine all at once to learn Spanish
and marry creole. But here comes a high
official, Mestizo. and with him his lovely
daughter. The white skin of the creole
takes here richer hue-more blood and more
flesh Of that satin Hneneas which we only see
in babies We want to bite, they seem 30
healthy and pure. This blending OF the cost
and west gives here solid fairy, plump and
strong, enjoying life through very perfection
Of life, capable Of work and sweet content
rnent. This particular fairy wears hat, for
which ain sorry-sorry TO see the dull
monotony OF Paris fashions pushing with the
railroad into this sweetcr fairyland. A 90
ciety has written rleadingly t, the Mexican
government from Sutherland, begging, It to
save thc rarer species Of cactus from cxtinc-
tinI. | wish they hni included in their
W0,or the charming national costumes.
Thn.;h certainly solid, aud not tall. this girl
is very lovely, with her energetic step, quick,
intelligent glance, and practical air OF ac-