Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1887-04-03
THE SEASON OF SONG.
AND FANCIEs FOR
THE H9LCYON DAYS.


tn character of Modist7 - Royal
Practical Dressm 4kers-Fhe
-. Ronnets Ribbons versus
Move Effects in Adapted
.r,ais-The New fsiior- Made suits
a,arn Costumes-Artistic braId-
49,. hg EuropeSn Operators-Simpie
n.,asg he Beauty of ruth in Fabrics
Home- Hade Costumes.
Nvw YORK, April 2.-There are beau
s,ul possibilities in the designs Oh Tue
.rosant season for those who have the
,osta will and power to select and dis
illuminate from the confusion or diver
oont IGNORANT and experimental ideas.
Tho changes are principally IN detail
oodthe most OF them in the direction OF
.o,,ivals. but they are revivals OF the use
FIJI sensible and practical sort. 1t is
almost impossible now 10 MAINTAIN Tor
onv considerable length OF time fashlon
ubich is only pure folly or results In
hurtfnl distortion. Dress, as Il whole,
hos made enormous strides toward hon.
os,vand freedom from eXaggeratlon since
tho DAYS of cages and orthingales-paint
and hair powder, pomatum and patches,
hools like stills and corsets, which en-
,Iosed the body like a wood and metal
vice outer clothing for warmth and
comfort was not possible in those days,
for # # had been made it could not have
.oaohed the body and inner clothing for
warmth had not then been thought
necessary for women
We owe great deal Of the encourage
mont which practical ideas have received
working lives OF the women or the differ
ont ROYALTIES of the world. particularly
those of England, Germany, Belgium and
Rnumana. All these ladies are publicly
and actively interested in art, literary,
educational and philanthrOpic work; not
as an occasional within or caprice, but as
nursuits and part OF the duties OF their
lives. There is not one who makes Dusl-
ness of dress; VINO carries tashl0n TO Its
height, who leads exaggerauons or STANDS
as the representative of expensive per-
sonal tastes and fashionable frivOlity.
Their habits and expenditures seem pro-
varblally marked by moderation and good
sense. the exceptions being in the cases
where they are bound by the traditions OF
courts and unwritten social laws, and
NOT at times or seasons under their own
control.
It is impossible to estimate the value
To the WOfIu dt VI ckdIS ln-
1uence on the side of natural, truthful,
modest, everyday life, or the disastrous
result OF the opposite; especially in our
day. when the personal acts OF the great
are made a matter of daily public record
and individual example planted over the
wide world by the unceasing revolutions
OF the printing presses.
MANY of these women would he distin-
guished anywhere, and are rather sup
pressed than other wise by the claims and
eXigencies of an exalted position. This Is
something which should be taken into
account, Tor the effect is strong and de-
terminate in controlling the current OF
dress and fashion and setting it in even
channels.
THE SPRING BONNET
has not changed greatly in shape-ofteD
not at all-but it is more uniformly of
straw and it has returned to it's old loves
and is trimmed almost exclusively with
picot-edged ribbon and flowers. For sew
eral seasons past, materials, such as fam
ciful gauzes, tinseled stuffs, brocades,
square handkerchiefs, pieces to match
dresses and the like, have been used tor
hat and bonnet trimming to the exclusion
of ribbons, and feathers have obliterated
flowers.
Last spring there was change, but this
year it is complete. The old stock has
been worked off ana the new is OF quite
different character. The Turkish stripes,
the gold and silver powder, the tinseled
effects have disappeared. rhe ribbons
are generally solid, with pretty edges; the
flowers are copied from nature and the
hat and bonnet itself is simple straw with
neat, ornamental beaded or other edge,
but no mixture OF stuffs in crown or brim
as heretofore.
The elemental ideas are few, the shapes
not exaggerated, but narrow and brought
up TO dispropOrtlonate height by the
lork-llke effects OF trimming, which is set
almost straight up from the side or front
and consists of an upright bouquet fast
ened to ladder of bows or upright loops
mounted upon strip of stiff muslin,
winch Keeps the structure in position.
novel effects IN these simple styles are
obtained from the use OF adapted materi.
ais ana the occasional transfer Of the
trimming from the front to the back,
Whlch, to make the copy complete, Is n
shed with a turned up brim.
among the novelties is bonnet which
looks as il il was made of small, she'll
SNAPPED leaves Of bark, overlapping each
other slightly and so firmly attached to
me foundation that they seem to be a
part OF 1t. The material consists in real
NY Oh cone leaves, selected, dried, pressed
ana carefully sewed on to foundation.
~ is one OF the new developments OF cot
taee Industries and very effective. The
OasKet straWs are not so coarse and there
iore prettier than last year. They look
wei ior young girls and are appropri-
agy trimmed with field flowers.
=, Dlack dotted net bonnets are made
.uis season TO wear with black toilets
ana tney are trimmed with open Jet
raves and spray of lilies of the valley
novelty In jetted hats has a transpa-
penI crown, shaped something like an ola
non Holhan chariot. The brim is thrown up
axe the visor from helmet and is stud
ueu as II with small nails. 1t Laws close
tne mead and has martial effect.
r otraW VIII undoubtedly be very much
Sseu tnls year, because it is fine and neat
appearance, not too fanciful and
"@uspts itself in color to the fine woods
~ ~nu cioths for street wear. The hats are
v way niue CT anged from the shapes oftwo
s,o's ago The main difference Is occa-
s s,onal breadth OF brim, not all round. but
sones sides, sometimes back and
SmelIuhes 'front.', but ALWAYS turned no
,. uu surmounted by the principal effect in
fro U thinning, which Is arranged, back,
oft n. OF one side, according TO the trick
tIn ,ne ofim. The upright effects are con-
in.tu; Dut flowers and ribbons are used
nrnaS OF feathers and scarrs, and the
ysivo,u up 0rlms are always faced with
rTs. White lilacs, spear-shaped
S"as and spike-f0rming flowers are
groo n selected In preference to more