Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1887-04-02


her fan was suspended Never looked so well IL
you life" said everyone, to her evident delight
who made your dresse" finally asked one, more
the muslin for ten cents yard. Whole thing cost
less than S. was the whispered reply.
were never cheaper than they are n
| almost invisible gray and white and brown ano
| white checks are sold for 30 cents per yard-4A
| inches wide-less than half the former price.
Surah silks at dollar and dollar and a-quarter
will outwear grOS grains at two dollars, and WOODS
| OF every grade are offered; soft, serviceabie,
adapted 10 all SasonS, and ranging In price HUH
| twenty-five cents TO the cost OF rich silks.
Cottons and thin all-wools AFFORD the best op-
portuDities for experimental work. Twelve yalui
OF any simple material and paper pattern, are an
that Is needed. RuffleS, c0tton-lace trlIhmlhss,
the looping and punching have all disappeared or,
II stln retained only make gown or garment iooh
All yoked designs are in vogue and may be varied
| indefinitely by tucking, embroidery, Trimming
with bands OF unequal length, and making tnen
deeper or not so deep, square or pointed IL y .as
'baby' waist revived, with yoke attached Shlrrea
or corded yOkes may also be used by thin girls anu
the pretty "French" waist. which Is plain upon TUG
shoulder and only gathered in slightly at tle Delt,
by the stout ones. The skirt may be gathered
straight . or slightly Gsre and tb n e de La
waSherwOmQn.
Simple summer styles are so attractive and so
that all girls should seize the opportunity TO add
to their own attractiveneSS by making and wear
Ing them While they can.
OUT OF DOORS.
There are no changes, except In matters OF de-
TAIL to chronicle In garments for out-Of-door wear
The dressy little designs of last year, with fitted
basque backs falls of lace sort-ngured material
for sleeves and ends gathered to points in front,
reappear and divide the hOnors with yiSte,
Nv hich has sleeves coming down upon the arm, for
It's chief point of difference All these small gar
ments are short upon the back and very much
trimmed with loops OF narrow ribbon or with SIN
l-nv fnrvn q
fringe.
The majority OF these Summer garments, OF the
nner knd are made OF lace or he ,c
harrow ribbon galloOnS and SILK pendant pasSe-
menteries. They are pretty and effective but not
young No mantle has ever been invented that
was girlish-looking and the general sense Of this
fact Is expressed in the continued success OF the
Jacket for young women.
The latest design OF this kind is the "COlonel."
1t Is made OF cloth In the new shade OF gray-blue,
and Is braided In an interlOcked pattern upon the
front and lower arms the design carried up to the
shoulders and top OF the arms, In the style that
only the Colonel is privileged TO wear. The finish
from the square braid to silver buttons is an exact
reproduction the detail copied in every particular
except that the lining is Surah, which Is not the
case with military coats and Jackets.
The dust and travelling cloak, so far as seen, fol-
low the late styles OF last year. The backs are
narrow and fitted close to the waist The skirt, at
the back, hangs full and straight The sleeves
form at once sleeves and cape, and are the loose,
cloak of this description. was lined with change
able silk-pink and yelow-producing a lovely
peach shade. Velvet was used for the collar and
panels at the sides. Pongee, lined with tinted
surah and finished with velvet collar. is used for
Summer clOaks; but braiding or embroidery upon
high collar, and a few fine lines OF cOiored silk
embroidery might be used to form border for the
sleeves. Shades of gold, brown and cream
nothing TO form glaring contrast.
MATERIALS AND HOW THEY ARE USED.
Bengaline Is very much talked now, but few
know what it Is 1t is pure silk, blended in the
manufacture with fine wool, and in the plain,
corded fabric looks very much like velontine, be-
ing equally soft and ribbed In the same way. The
figures show contrasts of dull, ribbed and smooth
satin surfaces: are tnterOcked and outlined with
stlll heavier cord than any seen in the figure it.
self. Bengaline makes handsome skirts and man.
ties. IL is suitable for skirts to be worn with a
polonaise OF SILK, trimmed or braided Gamers nair
or cashmere. 1t is not very costly, but 1t is not
cheap. Ii Is of the ordinary width and costs here
two dollars per yard; in Paris, eighty-five cents
Brocaded silks, except in small, armure figures,
have quite gone out OF the market. Few are
shown, and these at a reduced price. The rage for
stripes has restored MORE antique in striped
patterns to favor, and 1t Is largely used not only
In combination and for trimming, but for the
trains OF dinner and handsome indoor dresses tea
gowns and the like. Black MORE antique is fire.
quently and very suitably combined with black
WOOL camefS hair, LOT example. The silk Is used
Tor panel or narrow 'front.' for vest, rererS, or in
serted bands, outlined with galOOns arranged as
loops These make very stylish black dresses,
anu art Wei dudpL6O IOT SECOND mourning.
1t Is rather curious that, though mourning is
less used than formerly, Grape Is very much i'm
proved Is lower in price, and sold in much larger
quantities. IL Is now no longer confined to black
and white. but Is made in every shade of color
The water Is more decided than formerly, and re-
sists the action of moisture better Grape in cream
white and delicate tintS Is used enormously for
drapery and for millinery purposes; also as base
for exquisite embroidery. Where black Grape Is
used for deep mourning purposes 1t is used very
nearly covered with IL. 1t is no longer trimming,
1t is material and the wool or silk with which It
Is combined Is hardly visible.
RASTER FAHCIRs.
Some very pretty dresses have been made up for
Easter entertainments Of eau de Nil, or soft gray
faille combined with esprit net. This light dotted
net Is very pretty and becoming, and Is therefore
used for the fuckers, which are now crossed and
placed inside low or square bodice OF silk and
entirely forms full or flowing sleeves. The back of
the bodice Is cut In straight narrow panels, and
from this the skirt hangs In long, straight folds
The fan OF feathers and The Silken hose worn with
high shoes, are the exact shade Of the dreSs-the
black kid shoes having but one strap but very high
heels.
These dainty costumes-dehcate, but not very
expensive. and easily made at home-are just what
is needed later for dances at Summer hotels and
watering places. A detail of sash, which may be
varied from silk to net and vice versa and serves
also for front drapery, requires nothing but a
straight length OF silk or net, put in folds be-
low the line Of the waist In front, and is knotted
at the ends, the arrangement bringing them both
10 one S0e WITHOUT passing around the back OF the
bodice.
There are only two forms Of lingerie: one is the
habit SKIRT the other the tucker. Ali embroidered
edges, all tuck1ngs, are very fine and narrow, and
this minuteness OF finish extends TO the pocket
handkerchief. Borders, lace or embroidered edges,
are small and nne as possible; but the newest
thing, the handkerchief covered with small dots
or ngureS, mentioned some months ago, Is BEGIN
ming TO appear more generally, and will doubtless
soon be copied and vulgarized in larger, more con-
spicuOuS designs and coiOringS.
Inc interior finishing OF neck and sleeves nj
Cloth and high dresses Of wool or silk has become
elaborate and very expensive, IL purchased ready.
made. Ruching Is little used. The fashionable
edges consist or several distinct lines OF doubled
material, cut On the bias, and sometimes inclOSing
single nne plating Of muslin or crepe lisse be-
tween plain folds Of material The soft twflled
silks, crepe, and crepe de chine, gauze plain sil-
service TO give variety and character to simple
folds. Pearl beads are much used for beading and
gold and silver beads are often used In addition To
the Stlken floss which has always been more or
less a part OF the ruched edg1ngS. The hand
work, especially the beading, increases the cost
and II money or neatnesS are objects, a better way
Is 10 buy the pearl beads by the string and sew
ragged ends after the first time OF wearing as
most of them do. A still more satisfactory way is
10 buy all the materials by half yards cut on the
bias, and make them to suit dresses The cost
viii be less than half; the permanent value much
greater.
Colored cufYs and collars are revived for country
wear, in small checks and stripes, which, however
are very distinct. They are shaped as heretofore
only small corners are again turned down, and
some OF the collars attached to habit skirts
instead OF the smaller inside Jokes. The Guns are
uniformly narrow.