Evening star., 1886-09-04

itled basque, not long, with vest full or plain;
walking skirt in straight, clustered, box plaits
not too large. Il wa was REM renarked e by an intsiii
gent gentleman who has travelled much that q
great Improvement had taken place
dress. with It's neat ht, its good cut and
dark, plain colors, was more nearly Partisan
the styles being Goase ose cy unioPm
less mixed. II was stated to the writer, by
San Francisco ladies, that wool costumes are
| formerly, and are more generally worn. The
outdoor dress was more "dressy" few years
since when taste was less cultivated, and 1t Is
still the case with many women, both east and
west, That they are unable to appreciate the re-
hnement Of nne wool, It's superiority to cheap
slik, anu ITS advantage over any kind OF SILK
Here, above all other places In the world
should wooien faerics soft, warm, yet light ia
weight, be cultivated; tor here they are Just
what are needed for health and comfort; the
differences Ia color and exture adapting them
selves 10 the Changes in conditions and tenn
perature. here, the complete wooden costume,
interior and exterior, OF DIR. Joager should find
supporters; for 1t would certainly prove better
able to resist the attacks of wind and t0g than
the Incomplete defence usually adapted, especi-
ally by women, vino themselves change their
temperature from tue tropical heats OF tprl In the
morning sunshine 10 the Arctic Ice OF lace ana
nuns yelling in the raw wind and damp OF the
evening.
1t is said that the poppy red, largely dis
played, Is recent innovation on the usually
severe character OF the colors worn in public
and on the street. If So it's use in SO startling
a manner Is all the more surprising. The most
singular combination of red with blue appeared
I'D street dress OF scarlet, nearly covered with
blue WOODEN lace. But a costume of gray and
scarlet with scarlet toque and gray shaded
leaves was really charming.
Among the costumes worn at a theater party
were pretty and effective. One was white. with
red crepe de Chine vest and red gauze bonnet,
with gauZe butterflies veined with gold, upon the
front. Another was black surah with white
null vest and large, black, flexible hat, with
twisted scarf OF null and branch of white
acacia aeaeia. Tne chaperone OF the party wore an
seventeenth century BASQUE and large collar of
Venetian point; the sleeves iuli, but laid in
which were finished with cuffs matching the
Collar. This lady was quite like picture and
made the most artistic figure it was my fortune
70 see during my stay.
THE WEAKEST POINT
here, as elsewhere, in the present mode Of
dressing is in the millinery department, proba-
ably because 1t Is given over to exaggefatiOn
and waste and only vibrates between opposite
extremes. The quantity oil ugliness exhibited
in trimmed and untrimmed hats and bOnnets
Is AS great here any other where ana posi-
lively sickens one to see. II is rare indeed 10
hnd ready made or trimmed hat bonnet
that "a woman OF intelligent taste would he will
Ing 10 Wear, whale the nlasses vi rubbish which
must accumulate FROM The variety of unseled
stun Prepared iOr Ornamentation III uSt present
piobiem as difficult OF solution AS that OF the
Cninese. II is indeed time that tns bonnet
question was put upon u more permanent
ana reliable basis. the heights aud depths
and lengths and breadtus TO which it 5 ex-
posed, and which IL more or less touches,
Tempt neuralgia anu other diseases In their
several iorIns, and are childish and ian ts Lie
as thsy are unsaniiary. Tne west has IL III its
power 10 give US AT LIe east a lesson, by manu-
IacturIhy and adopting styles more elegant,
artistic and less extreme, aud refusing 10 take
from Us such, Tor example, as We have mpUsed
at present-the hisn hat and small, esstive
bonuet-both of which are useless IOr protec-
make anything To the average American type;
whIcn, perhaps because it is mixture OF
nationalities, adapLs itseif To the innnitely
various In garlnents and headsear without
losing It's Refinement and individuality.
AT THE GREAT RESORTS
III California has u season." il must be that
part of the year which is placed between Janu-
AIRY aud May. All agree that this is the most
delightful portion OF the year; the period when
the rains subside and the mountains and val
leys alike appear clothed with infinite varieties
of verdure and flowers; a veritable garden of
Eden from one end OF the entire stale TO the
oIuer and ''tll the way across" These are the
months when all good and hOsplable Califor-
mans wish for eastern visitors; and this is the
tune when the pretty resorts along the line OF
the Southern Pacific rOad-irOn San Francisco
TO MonIerey-are doubtless seen to the best
advantage. But they are lovely at all seasons,
even in the arid one which we fell upon, the
ury month Of August, when not drop of rain,
except a solitary thunder sLorm-a Thing un-
know before in these regions-had fallen for
over two months; and brown-eXcept where
irrigation had supplied the place vi showers
had become the hvery of nature, instead Of
green.
AtSanta Cruez is a fine beach part of the shore
OF the beautiful bay of Monterey, and here in
the afternoon assemble great concourse OF
bathers Oh both sexes, so that IL looks more like
Coney Island 70 New Yorker than any other
spot upon the western continent. The bathing
dresses do not dlspel the illusion. There is not
tho least difference between them and ours,
except that perhaps they are shorter, and IL Is
long hose than with US. The hired bathing
suits are surmounted by huge, and OF course
hideOus yellow straw hats; but the ladies' who
are provided with their own costumes do not
wear THESE; they simply bind their hair about
with handkerchief vi SOFT cream or blue or
red silk matching the trimming OF the suit or
the suit usell, and sometimes wear the reguIa-
ton shoes, sometimes long hose with The LrOw.
serS.
Pacific coast is the Hotel del Monte at Monte
rey. II is-take il Tor all in aii-pernaps the
finest pubic resort In the world. We have
notnlng comparable to II In the east 1t is
ope all the year round and is always largely
irequented. The temperature is such that one
eau wear lace or wooi-if the latter is not too
heaVy-wlth almost equal COMFORT Night and
norning light, little wrap may be equired;
In The oaytime and sunshine the lace is
enough. Ihe dressing here Is equal TO the best
Al Saratoga and Newport. II is light and full
OF charming color. Embroidery is seen q great
deal and Vi very beautiful convent design and
execution. RICHLY embroidered China Grapes
over satin, EN- mUroidered cameIs hair over vel
Vet and with velvet trimmings; baltiste EN-
broidered with uOts small figures and
trimmed with velvet TO match anu antique
lace.
The women are handsome and DISTINGUISHED
loOking, some showing traces OF the Spanish
tlood IN their veins They are light OF move
ment ana very graceful, as If i'll some Way lhe
French element nau mixed wit h tue lauguOr-
Gus element vi old spain. Tney wear cream
and black combined, the unoeruress ot cream
SILK or linen, The OSerdreSS, sleeveless, OF black
lace or SILK, cut out around the neck but not
low. Indeed the high neck and long, CLOSE COAL
sleeve gives AL aIr OF almost conventional Sc
verify. The lace sleeves, or no sleeves AL all
anu very low oodices sometimes seen are
pretty sure " come from the east or to belong
10 San rfaAciscau-eaStern born.
TRAvELISG DRESSES.
Brown and gray, touched with velvet, or
mounted with bands Of applique work, are al
most uniform tor travelling, just as they are at
the east; but there Is bright color in the morn
Ing dresses, such may De seen at Newport
aud delicate tinIs at dinner and in the even
lnS-eAactly as seen at Newport also. The
chapeTones, lou, wear tue staid black a, OF old
Once In way a mddie-aged lady sailing about
In rich attire, but always u sober r. Il n-t.oored
hue; ner only reiIef own or ner husban nd a
fortune In diamonds and her "bits'' of tlne lace
Quite the most effective OF the morning CO.'S
tunes are oi poppy red or gray-plue cotton COW
ered with crOsS darts or cresceuts of cream
cream belts and large black hats with CREAM
muii scarfs and u bow of the color of tue dress
pretty morning dress which might have
oeen copied fron Miss Maud Harrison's in
Jim, the PenInan, Was vi cream wool over "A
skirt figured with designs In dark velvet a
sailor collar and cuffs We're made of the tipnred
stun Altogether The dressing confirms the ilu-
preston received in San Francisco OF excellent
CONVENTIONAL style; care In following French
mouels, with u touch oil the Chinese element in
moroioery and dressing gowns, as well as
si1ns i IN san Francisco. and a trace yet OF the