Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-05-01

u H.
soft. solid woods with patterns in the selfcolor
woven In the ground, that are lovely; and the
touch OF velvet upon these gives them 6istinc.
ton.
Linens do not enter enough into the calcutta
dressing for the summer The dark figured or
hair-strfped linens make excellent summer
| travelling dresses, and can be worn very salts
most serviceable, dust-defying and protective
| OF all summer wraps. Alpaca does not, how
| ever, look well I'm the loose baggy big-sleeved
dust cloaks which have been in vogue of late
years Its stiffness prevents IL from falling into
| the figure readily, and il needs therefore to be
| ment.
HOW FASHIONS COME.
Fashions now receive their impetus from
many different sources; notably from the art
industries, which in New York have given us
| some beautiful and original fabrics as well as
novel methods of decoration. The most charm
| Ing dress worn at recent Nineteenth Century
club meeting. was by Mrs. James Brown Pot
set glow to 1t; and 1t was made very artistically
with high. pulled sleeves and outstanding col
had an edge of plated strawberry silk and
cream lace, and the square bodice had a full
front of the plain silk with lace finish. The
1aDric was one of the beautiful silken stuffS de.
signed by Mrs. Wheeler's society of Associated
Artists; and manufactured for her by an Amer
| lean firm OF silk weavers. Mrs Wheeler has
also designed a soft, summer silk which is
adapted to- dresses as well as summer portieres
Inc design Is entirely her own and consists of
yellow cowsiipS with sedgy, olive tinted foliage
on a sand colored ground and with an indie
scribabiy suggestive atmosphere of out of doors
slip is found.
Fashion in London has accepted with enthu-
siasm the beautiful embroidery upon linens for
dresses ana The fine drawnwOrk for underwear
executed by the peasant women OF Donegal
under the leadership of ladies connected with
art decorative societies, while the finest laces
InfantD
from EreZegeberge, district which has been
made famous in Bohemia by the hand work OF
The women who profit by ali new ideas in u way
winch shows marvellous skill, enterprise and
industry.
The Donegal embroideries upon cream linen
show butter-cnps and cowslip patterns in ma
tural colors upon the pretty costumes for coun-
Try wear, and furnish many suggestions to the
clever fingers OF decorative workers in this coun-
try.
GRADUATING DRESSES
are always source of trouble and anxiety with
expectant graduates from school and college, at
this season. A few may be able to send or give
their order to a competent dressmaker; the ma
jority IVORY over the difficulty OF making an
adequate appearance out OF inadequate re-
sources. The best thing, probably, that the
majority can do, is to procure one of the ma
chime embroidered white muSlins, make ii up
with full, open bodice and wear cream, pale
yellow or heliotrOpe satin belt and ribbons.
but II they would begin year before and en-
broider in delicate all-over pattern or in lines
or with border for drapery, fine white wool
or linen lawn. what a dainty costume could be
obtained, not only at comparatively trifing eX-
pense, but possessing the unpurchasable dis
linctlon OF separate and artistic individuality.
There is a J,rOre just now in London for home
dressmaking; and to encourage 1t a ball is to be
given at Williss rooms in May, at which the
toilettes worn by the ladies are to be exclu-
dressinaking at home, with us, is the fear of not
Being like everybody else. This bondage is q
great source of weakness. We could afford to
be a little fantastic in order to be free simple
and expressive.
Lace In the piece and for dress purposes is
more beautiful than ever this season. and
"iace" costumes-so called-are as much in de-
mand as ever. Black lace over cowslip yellow
Is greatly admired, but ii IS more used for parts
OF skirts for vests and the like, the rest consist
Ing OF the lace over black-than for complete
toiletteS. Laces which furnish distinct outlines
SUCH as the Escurial and Venetian are now
sought by leading modisies, both abroad and at
home, as "a basis for the beaded embroidery
used for vests, panels and the like il is found
SO much more effective. while requiring less
work. Complete tOilettes OF black satin fran
cdtSe are made with this mixture of Escurial
outline with cut jet; bonnet and fchu both of
Escurlal lace matching the finish OF the dress.
Ii the Escurial lace is bought with the fine let
WORK we'll done it will be costly; but lady with
leisure could easily bead the required parts OF
such costume for herself, and it would then
be no more expensive than any ordinary dress
of black silk.
SUMNER DRESSES.
Some charming summer surahs have been
cot yellow, '"daisy' pink, celery green and
cream white, with transparent drapery of silk
muslin or gauZe; embroidered in jardiniere
colors. The dresses are complete without the
drapery and are made with narrow flounces
upon the lower front of the skirt. The over
dress is not full and forms point on one or
both sides of the ruffied front and a stripe at
the back surmounted by an immense bow
The bodice is deeply pointed front and back
and filled in with folds of the embroidered
muslin.
a pretty combination In soft surah is oh
tanned by the union of pink with Nile green-a
iavorlte combination OF color many years ago.
III Is now used III silk to form separate stripes
upon skirts of delicate cream wool; which are
then covered with ribbons of cream embroid-
tend from the waist to the feet and form braces
upon the bodice.
Color and handwork have become the chief
tests OF that indefinable 'style" which is SO
dear to the average woman. The finer shades
Oh color and all Fart" colors only appear in the
best and purest class of fabrics, and are never
To be had as bargains or in 'cheap" mate |
rials
HAND WORK VS.. MACHINE WORK.
Hand work is not only distinguished from
machine work by its durability but by its indi- |
viduality. The designs differ from each other. |
and each possesses the cache. of the owners
or workers taste. The machine embroidery is |
certain 10 be run into the ground;' but Ia nd
embroidery will grow in favor as it grows i'm !
beauty and in the power TO produce natural |
effects in colors and design in needlework.
The most beautiful of recent designs have
been executed upon lace and linen. and have
formed part of several expensive trousseuass
In the white embroideries intended for brides
dresses, the shading and tints of white flowers
are perfectly reproduced in mixture of silk
with dull satin and pearl beads: ana beautiful
effects are produced by outlining scroll designs
In narrow satin ribbon OF velvet with EN- brod.
cry stitches and introducing starry or daisied
effects with seed pearls satin seeds"
The linen embroidery upon linen and the
open work effects are within the Immediate
line of the fancy work" in which ladies de-
light and which might just as well be put to
some useful and beautiful purpose in their
dress, as wasted in adding useless Ornamental
ton 10 useless objects. There will certainly
come a time when all this will be reversed
when time Will be considered of two much
value hot to be well Employed, when taste and
cultivated faculty will be brought to bear upon
every day work, upon matters connected with
our every day life; and the sooner we recognize
this fact and try to realize IT, the more truly
We shall represent the best tendencies of the
age III which we live; and the more likely we
shall be to anticipate the newest in art and
fashion.
STREET DRESSES
The Jacket, the dressy little mantle and cane
are the only garments used for the street. The
ulster is kept as "a resource and Tor travelling.
especially ocean voyages, but it is not seen
upon the Promenade, AS formerly. The walk
lug jacket for young ladies presents itself in SO
many fascinating DISCUSSES, and is so exactly
what Is needed-as an addition, not a covering
lor a pretty walking suit-that it is no wonder
IL retains all and more than all its old time pres
t0e. Inere are many varieties-some of which