Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-04-03

cedl II. O&yQlZeQ silver ana gray Cne-
mile embroider we'll upon gray in con-
junction with green; arranged as vest or
pointed collar and panel for skirt, and
panel for the centre OF the upright crown
of the bonnet. From incidental remarks
it will be understood that
THE NEW SPRING BONNET
is a many-sided, and, figuratively, very
elastic production. Literally-ify you have
the money to pay-yOu can take your
choice OF what there is. The difficulty
seems to be heterogeneous cOmmingling
Of qualities. There is roughness without
simplicity, quantity without adequate re-
suit, much high color and savage glitter,
when the season demands low, tender
tones and a sense OF refreshment and
awakening life. Dead birds, impaled in
sects, beaded butterflies and metallic
frogs are all out of place with the sweet
spring odors in the air, and the recurring
miracle of grass and flowers springing up
by the wayslde. Keep these artificial adj
juncts, these stuffed carcaSse5 OF what
were living things for the artificial light
OF the ballroom If one must have them;
but do not parade them in the sunlight OF
a newly-created world. Still, there are
always possibilities, remote sometimes
and TO be diligently looked for, but gen.
orally TO be found even in bonnets, by the
son are pretty cottage bonnets Of thatch-
ed straw with upright, puted trimming of
soft tissues in tinted silk or crepe, fas-
tened with dainty little pins-hay-iOrks
In miniature-and showing a buncn of
field daisies or buttercups and clover as
a finish. One charming bonnet of this
shape was faced with black velvet aud
trimmed with upright putfs of soft ivory
silk and mixed bunch of white roses,
Il Pow 4 g ft,, all Nm
brOidered crepe is much used in the max
ing Of dressy little bonnets; not as crowns
alone, but tor the entire bonnet, the edge
finished with rows of small rosary beads,
with a triple design formed OF small loops
of narrow gold braid, or with scant puff
ing of gold net strapped with loops OF me-
tallic cord. The plated Mother Hubbard
front reappears, combined with small,
upright, tluted or shel-shaped crown, the
trimming forming a ladder Of large loops,
to which flowers, mounted "A an aigrette,
adds both height and depth, the arrange
ment throwing them back towards the
crown as well as above the brim. The
transparent jetted bOnnets are the great
feature in black designs; not necessarily
for mourning, but for wear with all black
summer toilets. the patterns in ietted
lace are much finer than any seen hereto
fore; and instead of solid leaves and pat
terms which give the effect OF passimente-
rie; they reproduce such fine designs as
are seen in old Mechlin.
TEN YEARS FICHU.
"What are YOU going to have for your
summer dressY
This question was asked Of lady, who,
though a fashionable woman, has repu-
tation for being generally we'll dressed.
'"Ohl the same old thing" she replied.
"What is the same Old thing?' was the
reioinder.
well, when one must dress within
certain limits, there is not mucn choice.
| have worn a black lace fichu for ten
years-that is, not one tichu, but several,
one succeeding anOther-and as l have
made up my mind could not do better,
nave just bought new one"
"But Is that all you wear? 1t seems to
be rather a Georgian costume"
"Well, no." she said, mot quite. sup
pose you would add string of beads, but
! do not 90 in for beads and that sort of
thing. Ny principal summer dress for
ten years mas been black silk of soft and
light, but durable. quality, black lace
bonnet ard black lace fchu. Last year
had a branch of white lilac on my bonnet
this year | shall have cOwslips or mus
tard, have rot made up my mind which,
but | feel IN an expansive mood this
=
and yellow"
There are any quantity of women like
this good lady, VINO want one nice dress
for the summer that will do for church
and calling; and rack their poor brains
year after year to try TO find something
different, so that people across the aisle
will know that the dress is new. But the
result is rarely worth what it cos 8 and
they had really better tain back on the
tichu, which can be bought very TeasOna-
bly, now: "hand-run" tichu of Spanish
(BuranO lace, costing little more than
the machlne-made few years ago.
TEA GOWNS.
are among the necessities Of the ward
robe OF a woman of society now; and the
two worn by Miss Louisa Thorrdyke and
Miss Bancroft in ''rhe Jilt' are widely
commented on. Miss Thorndyke's IS a
very bluery, greenery, JapaneseY affair,
displaying long, Wathan folds Of flower
ed. blue-green, Japanese crepe mingled
with falls of lace. which form the front of
the skirt, also OF the sleeves and fill in the
spaces left By panels OF irregular length
at the sides, Miss BancrOtt's gown is Of
amber brOcade, lined with cream satin
the front Of amber satin covered with
founces Of pale, cOnee-cOlored lace. The
full, Molere vest Of Miss Thorndykes
gown is tied down with ribbons. These
loose fronts are not now used for any
thing but negligee; unless made close and
of very moderate proportions. Pretty in-
door dresses are made 81 the new flower
ed cOttons in dots, dainty little figures
with borders or "ali-Oyer' patterns, Turk
ish and EARLY English These are
made all Of a piece-that is without plain
combinations-the combined models be
ing reserved for stripes and walking cos
tunes. The cOttOn-hOuse dresses are
made mp in different styles, with full
skirts and l-belted waists, with point
ed yoke and long, fun skirt gathered in
at the waist line; with drapery curtained
up at the side over a. tucked or pleated
skirt and round iacketmade fun, over a
SWISS bodice with pOlOnaise crossed
over and draped high on one side. and
with long polonaIse tucked down the
front, on either side OF a long lace jab0t,
Tiled ~ W ith bows of ribbon, and reach
ing to the foot OF the skirt. which IS flash
ed with "A pleating.
Lace Is not used as trimming Tor cot
ION dresses this summer: at least not up-
on the new or imported DESIGNS. Em-
DrOide " upon the material has taken its
place tor chamDery, batisle and the finer
class Of goods. The lowered cotton are
Tor indoor gowns or are trimmed with
ribbons or full vest in a plain color.
There is absolutely NOTHING to remark
IN outdoor garments. The little mautles
and Yisltes. SHORE upon the back aud tied
IN Underneath al the waist continue to
hold their own. while the Newmarket
hRltttting aud with loose fronte--is pre-
fprred 20 the jersey STYLE Of ulster. The