The Sunday herald., 1886-12-26
THE FASHIONS.

ornaments gtterlng with tiny Irish diamonds.
Nearly all the bodces upon evening gowns have |
either open fronts over delicate WINE lace waist
coats, or piastrons with rovers beyond, made 10 |
simulate vest. Young ladies' have the evening |
corsagcs to Blk and satin toilets cut TO button very
snugly down the back, the front opened In heart or
easement shape, over Russian guImpe OF pearled |
India muslin shlrred AT the throat and again NJ the
lower edge, which meets the Corsage.
The newest buttons come In two sizes Of the same
design, the largest about the circumference of
silver dollar. Many Of the smaller buttons for rich |
costumes are veritabe levels both In coorlng and
device, the more expensive Kinds beng set like
gems IN low mountings OF silver or gold. Parlsan
diamond buttons are used upon velvet gowns, and
among the magnificent beaded passmcnieres i'm
ported are buttons TO match these earnures made
In two saes the one for the bodice, the large but
tons TO fasten the wraps to be worn en SUITE;
lellotrope, In millinery particularly, II likely TO
become very popular color, as the shade meets
the eve at every turn. After being questionable
for 80 long, the color strikes the fancy AMI claims
as much attention as would an absolutely new dye.
Pale pink velvet II combined with many OF the even
ing %, n nso w,
peculiarly trying color more generally becoming
than 1t otherwise would be.
are to be In high vogue. Hoods appear upon i'm
ported coats Of unmisakable English cut and STYLE
upon jaunty French Jackets both for indoor and
door wear, upon dresses, tea gowns, Russian
pelisses, and even upon dressing sacques. There
is sllteraly no appeal against them, and though as
AN adjunct to dresses or dressng-gowna they are
useless the general verdict Is that In most cases
they are not altogether Objectionable on the score
Long draperies with full effects. and the short
plastron In place OF vest, are, with fur bordering
and fur panels, the leading features OF talor-made
gowns for the winter season. The smooth or fancy
cloth Is draped In Grecan style opening up the loft
TO disclose n panel handsomely trimmed, or else
made Of plcats OF contrasting color, banded across
with velvet, the long black drapery falling In soft
Bedouin folds at the top. This is very effective in
heotrope cloth with fawn-coored peats OF faille
Francase on the sides, crossed with hands OF vel
vet, the short Violet pleated plastron arranged to
tor taa oil
| tron, crossed with velvet, also makes most TASTE
ful gown. .. ,,,..
the touch, worn en- suite with the naty street
suits OF wool. Beached aigreites are mingled upon
the front OF the bonnet, with face trimmings OF vel
vet, the full towering effects above the waves OF
| hair being hut little modified. Some OF the more
| dressy models are trimmed with wide ribbons OF
| plush and satin brocade. Others show garnltnre
OF marrow striped velvet, with backgrounds Of the
| most exquisite changeable effects. Among num-
| Der OF pretty and inexpensive bonne,s for evening
was one OF cream-whiie felt trimmed with pale blue
velvet and cream-colored lace. The front portion
was decorated with loops OF the velvet ana silver
New Partisan gowns are remarkable for the ma
npulation of stripes, which arc certain portions OF
show horizontal stripes hut the tunic which falls in
heavy peats at the back Ia In front caught INTO the
wais'oana, forming diagonal Apron ana nenea, ~
| these French models, the sleeves to many dressy
bodices are to be shaped a "a Hen,D Deur, and TO
| make the draplng OF the skirt accord with the
unique and intricate arrangement OF these sleeves,
| the modste VINO would follow their wondrous lines
successfully must first attach the skirt TO the waist
band, and then literally cut right and left with her
scissors, so that the gown shall he short here, long
there closed Mt one sile and slashed from belt to
hem on the other; AMI lastly, the stripes shall run
horizontally, perpendcularly, and crosswse, all on
one costume, and yet produce highly satisfactory
| result-an undertaking most difficult TO essay eX-
cept in the hands of that deest of all manpna,ors
of textures from Holland to Lyons vclvct-a
| Frenchwoman.
| Mousauetaire gloves are shown In elk, eight, and
| tweve-bntton lengths, and are worn equally with
tailor suits OF cloth and on full occasions with
| white and delicate-hued satins. Bright golden
shades of tan are now most favored. Kid gloves IN
evening coors shown In polished or dressed Kid,
In cream, flesh, roseate white, pale wheat color,
ecru, and Persian lilac. These gloves imported
with long sleeves of eight, twelve, sixteen, twenty,
and thlrty-button lengths. Undressed gloves are
shown in all the delicate tints Of polished kid. A
long Mousquetaire Kid OF ivory white, soft and us-
treess as velvet, is still preferred for brides. while
rose, cream color, or brightest golden tan. II the
bride Is married in her travelling costume, she wears
bnttoned or Mousquetaire glove OF dressed kid IN
dark tan, dove gray or of some shade harmonizDg
with her DRESS These are made with piqne. stitched
seams and embroidered on the back with extra
| heavy English seams. For utility and winter COM
fort are sold Kid gloves made in long Mousqueaire
style, warmly lined with finest silk plush and tln-
sncd with plain backs or chan-stltched, IKE q
fit snug,y at the wrist, are shown, with plush Innings
and tops Of otter, cony, and dark.nrown iur Ihese
are manufactured In c0lOrs and black. Ladies' seal
gloves are SO, Si2. and sl5 pair. Seal gaunileis
cost sl2, slh, and $40 pair.
IL
long ltussian cloaks for the opera that envelop the
weHrer from head to foot. One model which proved
very popular last year copied still more geneTaS M
whose fronts englhen into panels which reach quite
to the bottom of the skirt. In the back IS n mere
jacket.shape only, with dolman like sleeves, which
JON TO the front portion over the shoulders. This
mantle enables lady to wear trained dress with
ease, the long folds of which she can reach and
gather up over her arm. Fawn color, pale dove
gray, and bright goden-brown are fayori'e shades
for opera cloaks, these lined with lilac or plnk
| ltaIe enttn nn1
bands. White basket-cloh lined with pink, ant
trimmed with white feather trimming, or the more
evening az the more expensive wraps. Red pilo
cloth trimmed with black bearskin IL an Englisl
opera in NANTES made Of white plush or velvet bro
caie, trimmed with raven black Zbllnette or fur OF
otherwise with clOaEs of black velvet bordered with
white marabOut. So report modistes returned from
abroad. The combination OF black and white Is con
sdered highly becoming and effective in evening
Striped satin surah Is much used for pretty house
dresses, made with plain full skirt lnshed with n
Tiny ioqt Rleatlng only ana pointed nodlGe, WIN
, coOred velvet. These satins come IN Persian ant
Algerian stripes. and in diiaintrl.eoorei deep blue
red and gold and various other bright combinations
that render them effective for dressy home wear
Upon more elaborate toilets made OF these satns
are draped graceful tunics of embroidered nets ant
laces IN ecru shades especially in the Egyptian aut
canvas designs. Above this Is q short Russian
jacket of velvet, simply finished with beaded o.
: across with narrow velvet bands. Another way o
4, arranging ths striped sklrtsis that Of having Gus
ters OF pleats of the satin alternate with pleaet
ecru lace. these peats extending from belt to hem
!. The Overdress is a trlm-ttting French polonaisc
y! | with elbow sleeves, finished with n fall Of medium
n | Wide ecru lace OF n very delicate pattern, with
9 scarf of ecru net OF tho same design draped from
% the shoulders and falling some inches below thu
l. plain satin matching one OF the satin stripes II
h cOlOs.
Among pGyeltes IN seaslln garments are bodice
l. made wholly OF this fuy; agd ort with seams darts
and position back, exactly In the syls W. . gres
and are suitable only for the sIenderest forms.
Among elegant dinner dresses brought out arr
| those with velvet skirts made short, and showing
|, long French poonase above, made of Lyons satin
e striped with colors and horiaiel bands these yer
bounapt q e back bn, parting to reveal t,V the me RE-
%ast down, Or oicrklse 6nt up aly4e SIDES TO $40,
d SiIilprs Of me velvet skirt .canghI together Wit
,r headed e6tdH aHf hrnliaRs Inese I9rn gay,Hress
- toilets for late dinners.
Costumes Of corduroy are quite in yaupe, This win
ter. especially In golden,''rown and doys, afa
regular tailor style. with short English Jackets an
i, \ naipral beaver; Greclan lynx and silk aslracha
L. are 'Issd 10 Trim them. A few stylish costume
made Of thus material are shown, made with plai
,s skirt edged af me foot Nil band OF fur. Aboy
hack upon the skirt. the entire garfntht a,or1eye
d. with bands of the fur. chincha or blue fox beln
A. frequently used upon these longer coats.
French milliners, who are supposed TO be IN
highest authority upon the subject, ray that II IL
recognized rule that Donnets shall correspond In hu
III either Mlli. INC Ultulle VI the HoWh WIN Whuh
u worn. Many attempts hay1 been made In Paris
a, revive the Marie STUART saape, but y 10 iolna b:
, coming TO very few faces, and this II ~ cons1eIe
IL results from The fact tnqt bonnet m0delers do M
snniclently fpi,av Ihe lipes Indicated by he hea
r. covering that was patTanitsg hy me pnfortnna
IA Queen whose name II Dears Ths carve Qvef the en
lsies IL not sufficiently pronounced. as any oa6 ga
see by an examination OF portraits OF Marie stnar
'd The eXquisiiey fine cames-hair goods brougl
Il out this winter are niarves OF delicacy In their qua
,d nv ala als lonnd to combine more effectively VII
,a velvet than ioAl OF The varied winter fabrics OF
'e wool. velvet sklftwfth tuuc eeove, made or so
| OnaNsrrlray camels hall fca'ma a'Gos.ul5 d on
becoming. iadylike, and elegant. II fthegray Is u
becoming 10 the wthf5', u Epn usually DC mnue
A., by the addition OF Stuart collar aDi peSi OF velyt
~ matching that forming the skirt. Gamers hbf VI
re- an b~arent art OF draplng Itself and or natural
n rail,na nto p-seeiul ollnglng folds and curves
al Whan strings are attached 10 Donne,s lhey a a
usually 10 sJo pp with tiny "o"S ~, n a' no "
:" side either by q coIBmln safety pin pla, ~ "s
he Invisible or else by an pgpayienill fastening, ~
| en- epi1enHe, brooches, fancy clasps Or geHl-head
er pins alike being employed for the purlose!-
ry Not Afraid 10 Fight DueIs Now.
en- IPall Mall Gazeitel
IA An amusing story has been going The round Of I
re French nluers General whose rcce