Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-06-05

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Ia lew shlrrs at the waist line, which
~ heid broad belt. Gathered and
pialteu lrnts or vests outlined bv fiat,
peaoed or embroidered trimming, are as
popular aSever, and suit a richer and
more conventional class Of fabrics than
are employed for the Norfolk blouse or
gathered 6otice. But there is little that
Is mover IN tie making OF ordinary sum-
nef gowns. The effort seems to have
oeen IN the direction of collecting and re-
tanning the best models of the past several
years rather man creating new ones.
MACHINE EMBROIDERY.
Modern developments in machine en-
Dfoldery have done wonders with white
muslin; have restored its prestige and
placed 1t, in ls different degrees OF lawn
anu Jaconets, nainsook and Swiss uD TO
INDIA null, among the most available OF
summer dress resources. In its various
stages Of thickness and thinness, tneness
ana coarseness covered more or less with
Work as exquisite looking as though exc
cuted by Penelope and her maidens, it
forms costumes which are wonderfully
cheap, considering their beauty; and
adapted for all occasions, from boating
party TO ball and picnic to we'd
ding. White cotton machine.wTOught
dresses are not high style, but they are
"eAsy"-easy to have, easy to wear and
comparatively easy to keep clean.
While there has been immense improve
ment in the general design and finish OF
machine embroidery, 1t is not to be eX-
pected that it will show the elegance or
originality of hand work. The better way
Is not to attempt tAe elegant in machine
work, but reserve it for more ordinary
use and materials, Useful cott0ns and
linens are made lovely by machine EN-
broiderY, the patterns of when are con-
slantly improving. The smaller and finer
they are, as a rule, the better; and if
they mean sOmething-are suggestive Of
some natural ObIect-it shows advance,
and one must be thankful. Coarse, COM
mon lace and embroidery patterns are
usually larger and meaningless; but in
the finer grades are now to be found love
ly desgns-maideu-hai fern, edelweiss-
a little stiff, but adapted to straight lines {;
and prettilY suggestive long, lanceolated,
Leaf forms are found effective; and small
shell patterns are beginning to be used as
borders to interlacing sprays; and
branches Stimulating coral shell patterns
are also found in the new beaded passe-
menteries andin the designs upon sum-
mer wO0lens and c0ttons; so that those
who cannOt go to the sea may bring or
take a thought of the sea with them any
where.
THE SUMMER TOURIST.
1t seems as if women were just begin
nlng TO realize the amount of comfort and
pleasure TO be obtained from dress which
gratities their personal tastes and meets
their wants. Heretofore they have be-
slowed little personal thought upon cloth
ing. They have accepted what was or
dained for them and have generally found
it something TO be tolerated rather than
enjoyed. A great thing is to learn what
to get rid OF, and many American women
have been taught that by foreign travel.
Where pedimenta" mas TO be paid for
at so much a pound and cannot be
checked through" tut must be freshly
weighed at every stopping place, it be-
comes q burden, the full weight Of which
is put where it belongs. There was a
time when American women we're known
all over Europe by the number of their
trunks; but the cost and the trouble were
found too great for the satisfaction OF bav-
ing at hand elegant tOilettes that were
not wanted; and a multiplicity of gew-
gaws which marked them az destitute OF
knowledge of what was suitable.
Now the summer tourist from New
York goes to Europe with steamer
trunk (Which contains neat travelling
dress and satchel. The dress is put on
before landing, and its place taken by the
dress worn on board the steamer and the
steamer wraps and rugs. 1t is then con-
signed to the steamer office, and the
tourist goes jOyfully on her way, with
only a satchel containing change of un
derclothiug, a blouse waist, and skirt OF
gray checked linen, the essential toilette
articles, and a small whisk brush. An
ulster may be strapped TO the satchel.
a
is an immense advantage Ia travelling
not only in the saving of risk and trouble,
but of space. A tucked or plated
linen skirt in clouded hair
stripe or small check, with tucked
or plated waist, will be found in
finitely more useful and greatly to be pre-
ferred to the ordinary linen buster or
ulster. while it is an unspeakable comfort
for railroad travelling upon warm sum-
mer DAYS. Over il the ulster of tweed can
be placed as evening comes on, and it is
presentable enough for wear at table, ii
necessary.
The dotted American surahs intro
duced this season especially for travelling
purposes are pretty and useful; but they
are better suited TO short trips to New
port and Saratoga than TO the wear and
tear of summer abroad. Such a tOiletis,
wear and when staying several days in a
foreign city; and II simply made, as it
should be, with straight, full back, draped
front, sides plated or trimmed length
wise and high bodice, with a couple (fOr
change OF vest fronts-One silk, one lace
may be packed fiat IN the elastic
satcbel.
In any OF the large cities-London and
Paris specially anything can be bought
at moments notice; and it is not there
iOre worth while to carry what is not alb
solutely wanted. All places, too, large
and small, have their specialties OF manu-
facmre; and as they are often excellent in
quality, at a comparatively low cOst, there
is great pleasure In buying aud using
them.
Even to some who do not go abroad and
10 wnOm 'money is no object" summer
brings added pleasure from the absence OF
necessity for gauging dress by an abso-
lutely conventional rule or standard.
There is nothing more wearing than being
always on exhibition, and equal-nOt TO
ones own-but other peoples demands.
Thousands OF women long ardently Tor
summer, because they can pack away
their fine clothes, 20 into the country, bs
relieved from society" get acquainted
with their children and enjoy lie IN a
flannel suit and cotton sacque.
COURAGE OF CONVICTION.
The American woman always wishes
TO be equal TO the occasion. aud there Is
probably no country in the world where
fashion holds the majority OF women In
stronger letters than this; but II must be
admitted that the manifestations OF an
independent spirit are daily becoming