Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1886-04-24
In SOUTHERN MEXICO.
A VISIT TO LAKE PATZCUARO AND
ITS ISLAND TOWNS.
Idols and ScuIptured Stones
Approach of Holy Week.

may pc CatalOnla-lS the village OF JanIchO,
built on beautiful island in the midst of
the lake. Many romantic stories are told
OF the latter place pronounced Han-ee-co),
which is peopled entirely by Indians, who
mingle little with jewellers on the main
land, and have preserved their originality
intact Some tell US il is unsafe to go there,
and that intruders upon the enchanted isle
have disappeared-never to return while
Others affirm that the islanders are so shy
and timid that they hide themselves at the
approach of a stranger, and therefore out
side barbarians" can seldom get a glimpse
of them. Determined to find out for our
selves we embarked yesterday upon q vow
age of discovery, a Ia Colombo as here they
call the great explorer. Our vessel was a
long canoe, formed of the hollow trunk of
tree, propelled by circular paddles, and
rowed by a couple of Tartar-looking In
dams with the ugliest faces | ever beheld
But here, as elsewhere, beauty is only
skin-deep," and the ancient saw anent the
Singed cat e. better than he looks TO be " is
often eXemplified. Our gondoliers, despite
their vlllalnous countenances, proved to be
the most peaceable and oblging of fellows,
who rowed us around and around the
shores OF the lovely lake, darting into any
little cove or inlet that struck our fancy,
chanting wild songs the while for our edi-
fcation in the original, harmonious Tar
rascan, and even jeopardizing their preci-
GUS necks in the effort to secure for us
nest of young egrets which Betsy's sharp
eyes spied among the rushes. No words
can do justice TO the
LONELINESS OF LAKE PArZcUARo.
Clear and placid as one vast mirror, and
covered with thousands of wild ducks
white egrets, tall cranes, blue herons, while
occasionally was seen pink breasted
spoon-bill, or a scarlet fiamingo fishing in
the shadows. The lake is about thirty
miles long, by ten or fifteen broad, and of
great depth in some places. Upon one
shore lies the town of our temporary hab-
itation, Patzcuaro directly opposite =
about fourteen miles as the crow flies-is
the ancient village of Tzinzunzan, while
within sight, near the circling sweep of
waters, rise the gray walls of Tziracuaratiro
and other Indian villages. The innumera-
bic green islands which dot the lake, like
emeralds set in silver, are each covered
with cane-stalk jacals and adobe cottages
shaded by lime trees, iigs. pomegranates
and olives; while in the midst of them a
few scant fields of corn, tobacco and chill
are cultivated, which three staples COM
simple inhabitants.
Ja1icho occupies the largest island,
which is entirely surrounded by natural
screen OF fresnos lash trees), fringed by live
oaks and weeping" willows, whose
dropping branches, sweeping the water
afford excellent hiding places for
all those water fowl who seem to
whiten their plumage by constant
dipping in. pools and marshes The
village consists of a few scattered huts,
the Alcaldis house of more aristocratic
pretensions, and an old gray church of
astonishing beauty in such an apparently
poor community. But though the jan
ichoans live in a way that to our ideas of
comfort represents the depths of poverty.
they are all well-to-do, and many of them
actually III atfiuent circumstances. 1t is
said that they bury their money here and
there ABOUT the island or in the walls of
their houses, and a robbery of the same or
search for another man hidden treasure,
has never been heard of. One citizen was
pointed out to US as the
MILLIONAIRE OF THE vICINAGE.
Who has donated tn ousands of dollars to-
ward beautifying the church. for which
good deed he has Don prefixed to his name.
and Is much respected by his neighbors,
yet wears coarse blanket like the rest
Happy people how we envied them.
Money is of no value, except for the COM
tort and happiness 1t can purchase, and
those things depend entirely upon ones
ideas of the same. The richest man. with
his millions saddled upon his back, can get
little out of them beyond his ''board and
clothes and world of care and anxiety.
These Janichoans, wise in their simple
content, have all that heart can wish, gen
erous nature supplying their every need
ie1a Nd
billions to mar the quiet of their lives-the |
whole world for them lying within the |
limits of vision.
The chief food of these happy islanders, |
besides the fruits, gourds and other things |
that grow spontaneously, eked out by tor |
tillas made from crushed corn and seasoned |
by chill and wild garlic, is the incompar-
able whitetish, for which the lake is cele- |
brated. Being invited by the Alcaldi, who |
came out to meet US, to breakfast at his |
casa, we saw the Indians dart out in tn, ir |
canoes and catch the fish, which half an |
hour later, Drowned to a turn and fit for !
king, were smoking upon the table Then |
accompanied by the autocrat whose hospi- |
taiity we had enjoyed-who was the only |
man in the village without a blanket |
wearing print a leo shirt instead outside |
his blue moreno breeches-we spent de- |
lightful afternoon exploring the island. |
rirSt, Oh course, the cnurcn must De visited, |
and out of Difference to the natives who |
followed in respectful procession, Betsy |
ana wore our hats IN our hands (for any |
sort of head-covering in church is con-
sidered extremely All e,ious) while !
Dolores, who had never INDUCED in such
gear, drew her black reboso, nun fashion, |
down tightly over her forehead Among !
s;yad fignra Of tho V;rg;n coyared fro,, |
bead ~ foot with the Nos, eyo,,;Ni,a nI Jn
,i;an ambroiJarv W. felt liz ~ 80. IN III
hats To If If never before 10 a ..arsv an !
imaoe > for the nnnnmbared r';lIinns Of |
fine stitches ranresented ,aars Of ro,;o,,t
foil hv Nous hands wb;ia conntieSs I p@re
and mater nosters accn,on.n;ad tha 49,
In tbis cbnrch the ors,oT;st's a. A.
berad;tarv and hos dssca7Jaj e., setI,a
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