The Bolivar bulletin. [volume] (Bolivar, Hardeman County, Tenn.) 1865-1888, 1886-09-10
FRENCH NOVELTIES.

Striking Features of Recently Imported
Costumes of All Kinds.
Full waists and full sleeves are de.
cided features of new French dresses.
In some of the waists the fulness is
made without shoulder seams, a scarf
which is gathered or tucked passing
over each shoulder from front to back.
leaving the V space now so popular.
To fill in these spaces piece net or
scallOped laces are used in full gathers
attached to a high standing collar
made of the net laid in folds around the
neck, and fastened behind or on the left
by bow of ribbon, or else in front by
five or six tiny bows of ribbon that are
only a fourth of an inch wide. Lace
with a scalloped edge is also prettily
used for this collar, being laid in folds
around a silk foundation collar, with
the scallops extending above the silk,
and fastened behind by leaf bow of
the lace, made by gathering the
selvages and ends of two pieces of lace,
sewing them together, and strapping
them closely, leaving the scallops to
curve around in leaf shape.
The new sleeves when lined have the
outside much larger than the lining
(Which is in coat-sleeve shape), and
may be gathered or plated at both
ends, or else shaped by cross plaits in
the bend of the arm. These quaint
shapes will, it is said, find favor with
fashionable women who refuse to
accept the pulled sleeves introduced
two or three years ago by English
women; they are very similar to those
-, AIo I1soccoc Nv 7ticfc'
wives and others, but modistes have
given them a cdchet that will probably
make them successful. They are es-
pecially suitable for the thinnest lace
and null fabrics, and will scarcely be
continued in the heavy materials OF
winter dresses.
Pulled plastrons drawn ON cords are.
on new thin dresses, and these are ar
ranged in point in front of the dress,
which is gathered in the shoulder
seams, and similar corded point that
is much shorter is in the back of the
dress.
EpauIettes laid in folds from the col
lar to the armholes are on India silk
and lace dresses, with the fulness thai
forms the front held in gathers be-
meath, recalling the Garibaldi waists
worn a g generation since.
The newest ribbon bows are either
square or round, a sort of rOsette being
formed of four loops with their ends
meeting and tightly strapped. These
are made in different sizes, being ex.
ceedingly small on the sleeves, larger
on the front of the corsage, and still
larger when catching up the drapery
on the left side, or else Ornamenting a
lace panel, or forming part of bride.
Flounces of batiste or of India silk
are pinked in deep scallops that have
three or four curves on each side.
These are used on fancifully made cot,
ton dresses that are not given to tbs
family laundress, but are sent to
French scourers to be carefully
cleaned.
Four out of ten new French dresses
Just received are made with polOnaises.
All of these over-dresses have full
waists gathered or plated on the
shoulders with full sleeves. In cotton
polonaisss the skirts are festOoned tc
be very full and short like the TrianoE
dresses, while those of lace or of silh
null are so long that they cover the
skirt beneath. In one instance three
breadths of double-width silk muslin
are used in the skirt of the polonaise
The steels in skirt backs are now
placed very high, and so near the bell
that the cushion of HAIR is not re
auired. as the upper steel makes very
bouffant tournure. To do this the
uIacket-hole Of the foundation skirt il
made longer, and the open placke
space slips back and forth on the stee
across the top. The back breadths
the outside skirts are then attached Il
a separate band. and hooked on eaci
side the belt beneath, -RarpeF's Bazag