St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-12-12

silk, brought to desired state of perfection
by three distinct processes of construction.
the details of each being trade secrets.
hence the weaver knows nothing of the
dyeing, nor the dyer or weaver of the
crimpng. To preserve Grape it should not
be exposed to dampness, but if it chances
to get wet it should not be put near the fire
to dry.
If a Grape bonnet happens to be rained
upon, wipe it at once and hang it up to dry
away from the fire heat. If Grape is stained
with mud. dampen with pure cold water,
remove the soil. and then wash off the stain
and let the article dry. TO refresh shabby
Grape, moisten slightly and carefully all
over alike with gin, and roll it on roller,
where it should remain until stiff. AM
monia, with water. will also restore the
color of Grape.
Grape is essentially the trimming for deep
mourning toilets, the bonnet and veil being
usually entirely of the Grape manufactured
for such uses. that for the veil being bor-
dered in various depths. The celebrated
Courtauld black English grapes, the best
grapes made. are noted for their beauty of
finish and the purity of their dyes, and can
be found in various qualities in four and
five quarter widths for trimmings and IN
SIX QUdIltIS lOT Yelling.
The recently introduced silk warp-crape
cloth. which is fabric with cloth body and
crape-like surface, is one of B. Priest
ly'S vanished board novelties, of
which entire and complete toilets are
material is the silk warp camePs-hair.
which makes up very richly. No goods,
however are superior for elegant deep
ipn foil no no
black Henrietta with silken warp. The
same qualities also come in blue black. and
are used to create stylish and becoming
costumes with elaborate decorations in jet
and plomb beaded embroideries and rich
passementeries.
For out-of-doOr wear in the winter season
there are quantities of heavy-lOoking cloths
and serges, of which. most comfortable cos
tunes can be formed. for although these
rough surface materials look weighty, they
are light to carry. For house dresses
American tricOtines. surahS and luStreless
gros-grains are largely used. and among the
novelties is a black surah with hair-lines in
white. which makes very neat dress for
second mourning wear.
Toilets intended to give expression to the
deepest grief are not materially different in
design from those worn on ordinary Occa-
sions; however. some styles are especially
adapted to the uniting of handsome silk
warp iet-black fabrics with Grape; for in
stance. an odd and elegant cloak of Hen
rietta cloth shows back fitted to below the
waist line, where full skirt is shirred and
joined to the basque skirt. Vandyke-
shaped panels of Grape are on either side of
the garment. The front is slightly fitted to
the form. and over the coat-sleeves are
long tab pieces or oversleeveS of Grape that
reach from the shoulder. where it is shaped
and Sewed into the armholes, down TO the
edge of the cloak skirt.
A neat and handsome mourning costume
is of silk warp camers hair goods and Grape.
The full skirt of camers hair goods is Dor
dered at the lower. edge with a deep band
of Grape and revers of the Grape are on the
graceful tunic. The zouave jacket bodice
shows waiscoat points of cameIs hair ma
terial. while the revers, or lapels, the collar
and cuffs are of Grape.