Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-06-05
EXPENSIVE SIMPLICITY.
QUAINT MODES OF OUT GRAND
MOTHERS DAY..

transparent BOnnets, PFasOls and
Fans-simpIe summer Styes-ReviVaI
n the NOrfolk-Improvenn IN Ma
chine Embroidery.
NEW YORK, June Awhile fashions
were never more varied or more free OF
dainty devices than to-day, the general
effect is Of greater simplicity ana charm
ing suggestiveness Of the guam modes of
our grandmothers, diversiiedby the in.
1uence Of modern art and last.
RULES and tlOunces have disappeared,
and the tucked and knite-pleasd skirts OF
thin wool or linen and law might be
worn by a chorus OF Shaker midens were
it not for the gay contrasts in,he striped
or embroidered trimmings, th fluttering
ribbons, the starred dog collrs and the
steeple-crOwned hats with teir ladders
OF bows and ieathery aigrette.
The simplicity, too, is OftenVery decep-
tive. The village girl who dmires the
soft delicate wool, the dainty muslin,
sees no reason why, with her own ready
fingers, she cannot reproduce the general
effect, and does not understad why her
efforts fall so far short of her model. Nor
can it be explained to her limited expert
wool and cotton, when made Upby fash
ionable dressmaker, were about equal,
the only differences The value Oftbe 0rna-
mentauOn, that eaca is lined with silk
and mounted with velvet, anC that the
cotton dress she buys-ten yads for q
dollar and spool Of thread thOwn in
has no more existence tor ~ elegant
Young woman Of to-day than tie blanket
and mOcassins of an Indian.
THE EXTRAVAGANCE OF T[DAY
is in the special devices OF the geat fash
ion houses for customers who cA afford to
pay for them, and the interior nisA put
upon the piainest materials. The cloth
or cancels HAIR in delicate tins is spe-
cially woven and prepared. | is lined
with pure twilled silk or satin it is fitted
to form, which, IL Ii is not pelectiOn, IS
made to appear so. 1t is mad through
out with the workmanship formerly
known only to fine coats; it S mounted
with rich, dark Lyons Velvt, standing
collar, wrist and lapel finish nd fastened
with buttons OF carved peal, wrought
metal or enamel. in EXCLUSIVE and appro-
pirate designs. This vast anOunt OF Sc
lection and preparation allgoes to the
completion of a gown Ola costume
that IS so quiet, 80 free iron Ostentati0n,
that it would only attract htentl0n IRON
us neaJneSS ana harmony.
This admirable quality, 5his beauty OF
parts, this perfection OF iiDsh, is not to be
condemned; for the desip and willing
ness to pay tor these things furnish the
stimulus to skill, enterprise ana the de
velOpment of taste Hut the beautiful
thing should be kindly and Hospitality
entertained and taken are Of. 1t should
not be put to common lee, as 1t must be
if the same methods, the same cost, the
same untitness for acual service, dlstin-
guishes all the clOthiig of woman.
Naturally, the cOtOns lined with silk
are not ordinary prints, glnghams or even
cambrics; they are embroidered muslins
and cheese cloths. madras muslins and
lace-like tissues U nets; tinted and
printed in delicate designs and blended
cOlOrs; so that made and trimmed with
lace andr.ribbons over a foundation OF
cream or pink or leliotrope silk, they are
more effective for ete dresses than silk it.
self and more suggestive of the varied
beauty and brightness OF the summer. 1t
is true that the soft silks used for lining
make charming dlesses of themselves and
are largely used tor this purpose; but
transparent effects, and one dainty
material upon another, forming a mirror
through which the other may look and be
seen, is the fashion of the day, and very
SAoNA MN < VhD aOA snOoV " ~ SUA oAOA0 I've
SIMPLE SUMNER STYLES.
There are plenty of pretty things, how
ever, and plenty of new things that are
not costly. The choice within certain
limits-wnicB the accepted styles of
season prescribe-is almost Infinitely
varied and solid materials of good quality
are so comparatively low that an
expert needlewoman, who can make up
her own wardrobe, may provide an ample
0utHt at small cost. Figures in summer
ihaseFials are retained in their fabrics,
but in woods and thick cOttons they have
largely given place TO stripes, aud effects
are produced by combination, by con
trast, eby subtle harmonies and blend
ing of coior-rather than by the introduce
ton Of something totally distinct as
trimming or applied finish.
& TIE cheaHAnd coarse white laces which
bad become literally common as dirt
have disappeared from the satjnes and
other cotton costumes, and a simple hem
q French fold or lace like embroidery in
the shades OF the material Substituted.
"All-over" tucking and ''ail-OVer' open
WORK, which created a revolution IN white
dresses when they made their appearance
few years ago, are now executed in ana
upon cOlors, pale pink, gray blue, lilac,
stone gray and others, the embroidery
done in white or another shade of the
ground color. This enlarges the range Of
lovely class of summer fabrics, which
are not expensive but very effective, and
do not require the silk lining considered
necessary Tor open worked woods.
The simplest designs suit best these
omen worked cOttOns, which are so well
adapted 10 slender young figures and are
always accompanied by the full, belted
boddlce; and this season, often by
straight sleeve, slightly iulled in at the
top and into a deep cuff which buttons
over at the wrist. The square. yOked
waist has retired into the background.
IL Is still employed for children, for slen-
der young misses and for dressing room
gowns; but the short-liyed craze for
Mother Hubbardsv brought such dis
credit upon them that even children con-
slder themselves misrepresented by il.
ne Mother Hubbard as used for street
uress was the result OF ignorance and
ohnd following OF what was supposed 10
pc fashion, irrespective OF ituess.
ne Mother Hubbard" is only fit for
the dressing room. 10 is too negiigee even
lot breakfast gown; excepting IN eli
mates where thc tropical heat excuses a
degree OF iniormality In home attire,
winch In our colder climate would argue
ineScus2ble carelessness OF want or self
respect, q mother Hubbard" Is neither
more nor less than loose yOked night
gown. Because 10 rs made in cOlOred cot
l"h or wool docs not render it NJ gar
hent Tor the street or even for the family
cliele. IL IA dressing room wrapper IN
MAlch lady might be seen by the family
nIto0ut Improperly, but which she
"ould not deliberately wear even as