The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1886-08-03
A VACATION ON THE MISSISSIPPI.
Delights Of a Trip Up the Father of Waters
From ST. Louis to st. Paul.

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal
DUBUqUE, Ia, July Give had delightful
visit in Kansas. After living in Eastern cities
where land is bought and sold by the foot 1t was
> luxury to get into Kansas where it changes
hands by the section or by the thousands of
acres. Kansas has more room to the square
mills than any State have been in. clambered
to the top of the highest Hill in Saline county,
mounted high rock. took off my hat, and gave
shree huzzas for freedom; glad to be able to
make noise and to exercise full liberty without
disturbing anyone. But Kansas is losing its
having healthy growth, and its plains and
valleys peopling fast 1t is the scene of
coming mighty civilization. But it was not Of
Kansas that promised to write.
We reached ST. Louis, on our return, on Sat
urday, July &c whore we took passage on the
steamer Mary Morton for ST. Paul, Mimi Our
first impression going aboard was that the
srip would prove insufferable on account of
heat But the wharf at ST. Louis has slope
Of many rods from the hill-tops down to the
water line and is paved with stone which, dur
ing the hotter days, radiate heat scarcely less
Than that of furnace. Besides, our boat lay at
Hncnor just under the great iron bridge, which.
generates
warmth than hundreds of poor families in
Switzerland can provide for whole winter
season. But left the wharf, and
were well under way, fresh, cool wind struck
as, which has made the voyage pleasant all the
way to this point.
The Diamond 10 line" is said to be the old
est and most reliable company now operating on
she upper Mississippi. The MARY Morton" is
one of her choicest steamers, perfect in all its
appointments and adapted to swift voyaging.
But the present trip can be no test of her speed,
AS the water is exceedingly low and the chan
mel difficult TO find The officers and crew are
thoroughly gentee, and obliging to passengers
The rude manners and surly tones common
On some river boats are not known among u.s.
The lady passengers express constant surprise
that everything is so perfectly civil and quiet
The contrast between this voyage and our
railroad trips of last week is most striking. On
the cars we were almost suffocated with dust
and smoke. besides sweltering with heat and
enduring surfeit of noise. Here 1t
is quiet, clean and cool. There
exceedingly beautiful towns and cities along the
river, among which | mention. Keokuk, Bur
hngton. Muscatine. Davenport and Clinton, on
the Iowa shore, and Rock Island on the Illinois
elde. We passed between Davenport and Rock
Island in the night when the electric lights were
flashing their beams from score of high tow
ers on both sides of the river. making great win
rows of flame across the turbulent waters. 9th
Or boats we're moving up and down. with sounds
OF whistle and bell and with voices of song and
Halute, as the great iron bridge swung to let us
pass through Altogether the scene was beyond
description. But we had to stay at Rock Island
until daylight on account of the dangerous rapids
which lie just above, covering a
range of twelve miles. The channel
Tor navigation has been cut through solid rock
much of the way, and the least deviation from
true line will insure destruction to boats. We
met the War Eagle just below, on her way 20
the doekyards for repairs, having smashed a
sde-wheel against the wall of the channel.
special pilot is put in charge of all boats that go
through the rapids. and will only undertake the
dangerous task in daylight At point our
boat struck huge bowlder, that created tre-
NOR, attended by sound like the discharge of
cannon.
There has been only one drawback to this
beautiful voyage-the far-famed Mississippi
mosquito. By permission of all packet lines
mosquitoes travel on free passes up and down the
river, and are left to get warm meals bv sucking
the blood of passengers. The next appropria-
ton made by Congress- for the benefit of Missis-
Bfppi navigation should by all means embrace
some method for ciyilizing mosquitoes have
seen 1t suggested that mosquitoes are the wan
dering spirits of defunct ghouls. In view of
their tenacious digging and boring for the last
night two l am willing to let the statement
pass me unchalanged
Large crowds come down to the wharves to
witness the landing of boats and to salute trav-
efers. At some stations small boys come aboard
with beautiful water lilies for sale. We have a
Hne orchestra our boat. which fills the air
with music. Evenings spent by some in
dancing and Dy others In sacred song. Nearer
my God, to Thee" and America" are sometimes
rung out on the night winds with pathos and
melody that stir the souls of Christian patriots.
Not least among the varied sights of this trip
are the many wonderful bridges which span this
mighty river 1t is signal triumph of mechan-
Lcal art and skill which stretch q network of
Iron across the Mississippi every few miles and
BiRnal the crossing of ponderous trains one hour
hnd then part and swing aside to welcome the
passage of steamers the next
AS we passed the mouth of the Galena river
conversation turned, very naturally. upon Gen.
Grant and his early work tanner Some of
The passengers were from Indian Territory
eome from Arkansas, Missouri and other South
Bfn States. Yet all seemed to have one mind
concerning that great name. Everywhere high
respect and grateful affection abide the memory
of General Grant The great South will some
day swing into line with pen and chisel to build
monuments to his memory. will give a brief
Rccount of the finer sceneries and principal
events of our voyage in my next.
A. w. LA-IPoRT.