The Palatka daily news. (Palatka, Fla.) 1884-1888, 1886-08-29
OVERWORIAED TUILEnS.
LIVES OF THE UNDERPAID FASHION,
ERS OF MASCULINE MILLINERY.

An Industry In Which Thousands o,
Mcagor Wagcs-Evils of tho Systcnl in
Vogue.
We hear q great deal about the "Ssong or tie
Shirt" and the woes of the women who make
those garments, but we pass by those who
work at mems ncckties, and we do SO because
we somehow think that those who mako up
those pretty satin and silk arrangements must
find easier work, better pay and less of that
monotonous drudgery that seems inseperable
from work ON white goods. But probably
there is not a worse paid branch of female
labor existing than making neckties of all de.
scriptions. The making of neckties isa trade,
and one requiring rapidity, exactness and cx-
IRENE neatneSs, and not little taste. 1t takes
q long time To become expert, and few ever do
attain the degree that commands living
remuneration
HOW TIE TRADE Is LEARNED.
The trade is learned in most instances
through the following routine: a person
and there arc very many who do this-wil
advertise to teach nccktio making, also Teck
and puff scarfs, at reasonable price, and
many of them also promise to secure profit
able employment for those who learn. The
fee is 81, i'll advance. The learner Is con.
Quoted to n woikroom, when the 81 has beer
duly paid, and given IA seat among othcI
learners. For the first week the novice must
rip up old scarfs and tics that look as if they
had bcen iisho,l from ash barrels. The Innings
of these are saved and used aftcrwarl- The
second week is given to slip stitching the
Innings and wadding. The third to- sewing
up the ordinary cravatS and then many
more as the girl is willing to give to the
woman who manages the place are occupied
in making up ties of all kinds, which she
takes in from dealers, but the learner gets
nothing for her labor. In some Instances the
husbands Of these women sell the necEtics.
1t really does not require, even for the dull.
est over one week to learn all that can be
taught The rest comes by practice. When
the mistress sees that her pupil is beComin?
restless she sends her to one of the houses
which give out their work Ii must he UNI
dcrstood that the learner has been led To be.
lieve that she can earn $40 and SD per weeE
if she is expert.
FURNISHING SAMPLES WITHOUT PAY.
These dealers, who only manufacture anC
sell very ordinary goods hire the new re
cruitS, AMI the first thing they have to do i
to sit down and make IA sample Sometimes
they bring samples of their work, but th,
dealers prefer that the sample be made before
their eyes for two reasons, first, to satisfy
themselves of the capacity of the person, anC
secondly, the sample is never paid for and il
Year the amount saved Is quite worth tho
trouble. If the sample suits the girl gives
her address and references, and gets n half :
dozen or dozen ties to make, which she car
take home with her. When these are brought
back they are examined one by one, by 4
lynxcycd person, ana if one only is not just
right, she gets no pay for all until that one i:
altered and made exact. If girl gets ter
gross Of one kind to make, every one must 10
the exact counterpart of the other without 4
shade of difference, or she gets no pay what
ever until all are arranged to suit, no matter
how much she may need it.
The work is cut out by professional cutters
and the applicant for work gets all the neces-
sary adj juncts for each style of cravat she is
to make, air cut smooth and exact, but II
more, each dozen done up in separate pack
ages. The ordinary neckties, made of satin
and crossing i'm front, have first lcatherctte
shield III which is fastened a long needle. a
piece Of cotton-tiannCl Is laid over this and
then the satin or silk. The pieces which lar
over this are eight in number and consist OF
first satin outside, cotton-fianncl, buckram
and satin silcsia for lining The banG
which passes around the neck is made of SatiI
outside satin lining, II tin which is sew,,l to
piece of buckram AMI pasted inside the band.
This then has to bc slip stitched and carefully
pressed, and the band has to b. turned n tire
some job on account of its narrowncss. In
most of the factories there are girls with
machines who do what machine work is re
quircd on each tie of whatever class they
make, and these are given To such women N
have no machine of their own. OF course the
difference of labor is deducted from the pay.
New York World.