Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1886-02-07
LADIES COLUMN,
Containing Topics Of Interest for shop
per and Economist, with Hints
to the Dress-Maker.
Hair Hour Clint Win ola Fashioned uiri.
-Breaitie- aud vaniiies fcs
Everybody.

IN Vut last weeks column we INDUCED
10 some little forecastlng az to spring
styles. Fabrics are now beginning TO ap.
pear I'D the Eastern markets, which give
one little insight although none OF
strictly spring goods are yet offered II
Is an Anomaly that usually light wool
laorlcs suitable for that season do not
make their appearance until after cotton
stuifs. Now Is the time for the expert
enced shopper to get her bargains in
heavy woods and silks ere they are packed
aud the shelves emptied for the summer
goods.
Ginghams and sateens are the irst
summer stuffs 10 be seen, and while the
finer qualities OF bingham seem much the
same as IN seasons before, there II
noticeable improvement In the sateens
They seem softer and more pliable, and
for these reasons more desirable, as they
are less liable TO crush and remain In
creases, which tendency has heretofore
been their chief objection. The surface
luster is also better, and Is so perfect as
to closely resemble the luster OF silken
fabrics, the result being marvellous when
II is taken into consideration that every
thread used in the weaving OF sateens Is
cotton.
Striped sateens are noticed among the
novelties, and there are both light and
dark colors, aud many attractive color
combinations. II we can rightly Judge
from these first importations, stripes are
TO rage during the next season, as all
kinds, colors and descriptions of stripes
are seen. In fact, fully two-thlrds OF the
materials thus far shown are striped.
There are sateens in dark colors, which
will prove quite as durable as they are
pretty, in fine stripes OF two alternating
colors. Ia the ginghams the stripes are
usually wider than in the sateens, meas
urlng on an average about half an inch.
There are ginghams striped ia two,
three and even four colors, but those
striped with two shades Of the same
color are decidedly preferable from all
points OF view. There also checked
ginghams in black, brown and gray with
white These are always modest and
pretty. There are also checked glnghams
in shades of blue, pink and even red, but
these will be reserved almost exclusively
for children's wear. Crlnkled seersuckers,
also In stripes, again come TO the front,
and In them some particularly pretty
shades OF blush gray are seen. These
crinkled seersuckers are most desirable
wear for dresses that are TO be laundried
often, as they do not shrink or fade, and
require neither starch nor the labor
OF fine ironing, as little pressing and
pulling with the fingers draws them read
lily into shape. A very few embroidered
batiste dress patterns have been dis
played, but these are almost II not quite
repetition of the designs of year ago,
excepting that some of the batistes are In
much darker colors, such as olive-greens,
browns, dark blues and grays. The ma
jority of these are embroidered with
bright red and cream-colored threads, but
in the designs for these embroideries
there has nothing new been seen. Dress
patterns OF pougee and India
Grape silk with embroidered borders
are offered at very low
figures, and in very pretty designs
sTRIPEs.
AS these are likely to continue in popu-
larity, word of caution as to their
makeup may not be untimely.
First and foremost, then, perpendicu-
lar, horizontal and diagonal stripes are
all approved, and every woman who in
duges in a striped costume should choose
the arrangement best suited TO her style.
And 1t should be remembered that neither
very tall, very short nor very tieshy
women should wear dresses made en-
tlrely OF striped stuffs. There should
he second plain material for the
foundation of the dress, and the
striped stun used in panels, parts
of the drapery, or revers, or, indeed, In
any way that does not give the dress the
appearance of having the striped, the
principal material and the plain the sec
ondary goods. Perpendicular stripes are
said TO add height, and generally they do,
but put misunderstanding gown on
short, stout woman, and unless the
stripes are very narrow, 1t will add more
perceptibly TO breadth than TO height.
Horizontal stripes should be even
more carefully used, as it Is the
easiest thing in the world to make one
self appear thoroughly ridiculous by too
much OF the horizontal line. Properly
arranged, however, the effect is often adj
mirable, but like many other good things
in the world they should be INDUCED In
very sparingly. Diagonal stripes in skirt
ARRANGEMENTS, whether in panels or Ora
peries, are generally graceful, as obllque
lines or curves are better adopted to
clothing the human figure than either per
pendicular or horizontal arrangements.
But the most troublesome part OF a
striped dress Is in making
THE BODICE,
for If a single line is at fault the entire
thing will have crooked, one.sided APP
pearance that destroys all symmetry, and
unless woman is endowed with that
great blessing, good figure, 1t would be
advisable for her not TO attempt the
wearing Of a striped bodice OF any kind
Some very good results have recently
been seen by cutting striped Dodices
bias. As even the flrmest materials
pull and stretch when cut this
way, 1t is necessary TO use
strong lining, cut straight, OF
course, which prevents the outside from
pulling out OF place. A very pretty CT.
feet IS given by cutting the front and
back of a bodice bias, making the diago-
nal lines meet In points down the center
The under arm-pieces are cut straight,
breaking the regularity Of the lines On
the shonlder-seams the stripes also meet
| in points. The sleeves may be cut en-
tirely OF straight goods, or on
the upper part the stripes may run
djasonaily, while on the under parts
they are straight Similar arrangements
of diagonal stripes meeting In points
NAV be carried out on the skirt with
| -.~~.tn.. .,nod afFacf nartigulArlv on the