The Ohio Democrat. (Logan, O. [Ohio]) 1886-1906, 1886-10-09
LADIES' COSTUME.

Description OF a Pretty Toilet of Fine
Checked Dress Goods and Velvet.
The skirt is in the round, walking
shape, and is composed of the GUS
tomary three cores and full back
breadth; the cores being fitted smooth
ly by darts, and the breadth gathered
across the top. The breadth is SO shaped
that long or a short hustle. or steels,
may be worn with it, or they may all be
omitted and the adjustment of the skirt
perfected entirely by tapes sewed
beneath the side-back seams and tied
together. Upon the foundation is ar
ranged kilt formed of straight breadths
joined together, turned under for hem
ut the lower age and laid in plaits all
turning one way. This kilt falls even
with the bottom of the skirt, and is
sewed fatty along its upper edge not far
from the top of OF the skirt. The plaits
are held in position by means of tapes
sewed to their under sides. and this kilt
is to all appearance the skirt proper. 1t
is overhung by q short tdblier and a
deep k-drapery. The abhcr is con-
formed to the shape of the cores by darts,
and in each side ar6 four upturn ng
1t is sewed into the s.de-back skirt scam
at the r'ght side. and at the left is in
cluded in the scanning of the undcr-lap
of the placket. opening. The hack
drapery is full breadth which has
scanned bournOus loop at the center OF
its top and is laid in plaits turn
ing from this loop at the left
and toward it at the right side of
the center. This arrangement pro-
duces all the draping without tho aid OF
plaits or loopings at the side edges, and
draws the breadth into curved outline
at the left side, while at the right it falls
in point. Its free edges are hemmed.
and the top is sewed with the skirt to
the belt, to which the tabiier is also
Joined. The side edges are held in posi-
ton by being invisibly tackled to the
lower edges Of the tabl,er.
The body of the costume is very
jaunty basque. 1t is pointed in front
and has position back which derives
graceful fulness from extra width al
lowed below the center seam and laid IN
double boX-plait underneath. The
sides curve high over the hips, and the
adjustment is perfected by means of
side-back seams, under-arm cores and
double bust darts. The front closes
with button-holes and large buttons, the
right side being hemmed; and the clos
ing terminated far enough from the
throat to permit of turning the fronts
back in little iapels. A high rolling
collar meets these lapels in notches, and
to the back of the basque is sewed a
standing collar, which in front OF the
shoulder seams is joined to little vest OF
chemisette portions that are sewed flatly
beneath the lapels and have their shoul-
dor edges included in the shoulder
seams. At the right side the vest por.
tion is hemmed, and the closing is made
with button-holes and small buttons.
The rolling collar Is made of velvet, and
the lapels are faced with velvet. The
finely shaped coat sleeves have round
cuf-facings Of velvet at their wrists.
For travelling or general town OF
country wear, either by tho busy woman
or her whose duties are planned to dc
away with rather than create leisure.
such toilet rs this Ia refined. elegant
and serviceable. Checks in various
sizes ara obtainable in all grades oi
goods from cashmere to cloth, and may
be procured in all colors. Sometimes
the standing collar and the chemsetto
portions will be made of surah or plain
wooden goods, and the rolling collar
and the lapels will be faced with the
dress goods. Although considerable
prominence is given to chocks in this