Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1886-02-28

Dress.
Special Cnrrr@pondencel
PAU. Feb. Al am writing this letter Ht
one of the most delightful winter resorts Of
southern France. where the peaks Of the
Pyrenee covered with snow that gll~tens
in the sun, are seen from my oren window.
While You Of the northern United States
are probably chilled u the core 10y severe
winter weather. We in this favored spot
carry sun umbrellas at noon and sit before
a simple wool fire in the evening And
even when the rain comes, as it does fire.
quently, much too frequently for some of
the nver-eNacting sojourners here, it is never
accompanied 10y those keen. piercing winis
that You know and dread. The water naT
fall in torrents. but the atmosphere Is a
soft As hat which accompanies an Apri
shower .ong the Hudson This mild climate
ATTRACTS invalidS from all parts of the world,
and the facilities for indulging in outdoor
sports brings 20 Pau many a stur iy English
man whn ha- never known what sickness Is
But it is not simply the gentle rain, the
warm sunshine and the tempered breeze
that render Pau a popular winter home
The CITY and the country roundabout pos
seSs many other charms. Tn chateau Of
Henry lN. for instance, is one of the finest
arChi tec tural monuments and historical re-
mains to h, found in France. The modern
town has grown up aroCnd this ancient
stronghold where Henry of Navarro was
born. You are still shown his cradle, an
immense shell Of sea tortoise. suspended
by cords 10 three stacked spears. No won
der the baby became a great war king. sur
rounded thus from his very infancy will
the implements of battle. and may not the
vaStncSs Of his designs aud the breadth Of
his mind be attributable in part TO his hav
ing been rocked in the cradle of the deep
The BearneSe- for Pau was the capital OF
ancient Renrn-are still proud of their
famous fellow -rountrvman. and there stand,
today on the Place Koyaie a spirited marhl,
statue with this dedication in the pGtDtS O.
the region: Lou Nou>te Henric.' TO Gun
Henry
Behind the museu.n is an open marke
place, where is held every Monday a cUriom
sale of all sorts Of second hand objects The
impecuninus peddler> spread out their unin
vIting stock on the bare ground and, staud
ing in he midst of the trash. hawk the whole
day long The buyers are for the most part
peasants who flock to Pau on Monday from
ali the country round about, bringing with
them produce Of every kind. and returning
home ladrn,d with groceries, garments,
wooden shoes and other neCe>sarie> that the
fields do not produce. II Is amusing t.
watch these sharp rural bumpkin> driving a
bargain with the equally sharp city huck
sters. where the object they are bickerIng
about Is 20 ne old pair OF hreecheS, or a
hrime~S hat, or Il rl"kety chair, or such
like which We more favored mOrtalS would
not accept. even if pad to take it away
Here We see a collection Of kitchen utensils
- ancient and used that they would seem L
have served all the gen rations OF the last
century. Hard by l. an array of lOuts.
shoes and SLIPPERS Of every Imag Unable style
snd in all stages Of decrepitude, while fur
ther on Is a pile Of faded books and tern
pamphlets that could not awaken any en-
thusasm even in the most confirmed blbllu
maniac always eager for a find. Think
of the end - patience required to carry off
each Monday night and spread out each
Monday morning all these caStaway articles
And what an example of the proverbial
economy of the French pea>antry is offered
rv their making purchases here, rather than
at the more expen>r Va shops in town
Mora important bushes, transactions are
carried on at he annual mule market, which
takes plaC, in the autumn. In thi, instance
the sellers. who are also the breeders. are
the same peasants whom we saw a few
moments ago at the second hand market
place. while the huyer, are Spanish noun
taineers who come down from the PyreneeS
with their purses fun Of gold dollars. and
go up again with n drove Of mules, which
,hey keep for season and then dispose Of at
a profit to the inhabitants Of the Spanish
border A mule SIX months Old will fetch
800 francs a big sum IN the eyes Of one of
he small farmers OF Bearn. who bring up
" Pau each wear MANY hundred of these
ypirited headstrong and above all, reCal-
citEant animals During the sales the o her
day a man received such a terrible kick that
he died then and there These Spanish
mule merchants are exceedingly careful to
keep beyond reach Of these dangerous hind
legs which however must be closely exam
med before the bargain Is made The peasant
owner twists the rope halter around The
lower lip of the mule while hi- son lifts up
the left front leg which he holds tightly
between his knees. In this way the poor
animal is rendered almost powerless as to
his hind leg~ When the price l. settled on
the Spanard takes out Of his pocket pair
of sci SnrS and cuts number on the heavy
coat of the mule, marks this number, the
name and address OF the peasant in note
book, and then re eat the operation with
other animals until he ha~ made as many
purchases As he mas money When the mar
ket closes. after three davs Of busy traffic
he goes over the country collecting his
mules and then turns their heads towards
their new home
The picturesque dress Of these Spanish
mountaineerS gives romantic air to the
streets Of Pau during the period of the mule
market. Imagine a tall sturdy. bronze
faced fellow with sandals on his feet, heavy
white stockings reaching to the knee, where
they are met bv loose Lreeches of rather
somber color, fastened at the side by laCings
set off bv tInkhng brass hugle>, an open
Jacket. of the same hue a. the small
clothes revealing an embroidered shirt,
dark brown silk handkerchief bound round
the Top of the head. and a black low felt
hat crownng all while large thick blan-
ket of a brilliant dye Is thrown gracefully
ov,r the left shoulder-such is the appear
ance OF one Of these brigaud looking mule
dealers
The most fashionable distraction at Pau i,
fox hunting part Cipated in prime pIlly by
English and American spOrtsmen. French
men not entering IN heartily to his break-
neck paStIme. Thrice week whether II
rain or blow or shine. the a>sIduOus hunts
men ride out to the meet which varies on
each occasion. sometimes beng five or SIX
miles from town. The horse that carries
them to the rendezvous i called the hack
He j. there exchanged for a fresh. strongly
built animal, vho-e legs are uuchpped as a
protection against the brIers and thorns
that beSet a cross country chase. The rider
IS attIr.d in top boots white hreeches and
coat, and high silk hat The meeting place
l. some farmyard or village gr en-. which i,