Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-10-02

b0xs, EtP0sean Gold and Indian n.
signs-A New Departure In Handler.
ehieGs.
From Our Own Correspondent
new YORK, Oct 1, 1886.
Almost every city In the Union has more OF
an ihdiViauaiisy OF It's own as regards dress
nam New York. Boston IL severe In its gen.
cal characteristIcs-individu often quite
the othef way; Chicago, some w hat pronounced
han Francisco, costly and conventional: "New
1oFs, MADE OIL every Creatures best" whispers
rosuishly born and loyal New Yorker In my
ears however that may be, the first impress
SION on returning to New York is that all indi-
viduaiities, all conditions and all degrees OF
taste ana cultivation are well represented In
the dress OF the women that IL Is exceedingly
aliheuit 10 discover what il "fashion' among
men; ana what Is not. Prim little ladies in
oark t&ior-inade suits, with cIose-iiLtIng Jacket
boalcs, showing u modicum of vest, with rim of
coiAr ana narrow SILK tie, brush against women
no SAN along IN bright nasturtiun color and
brown or green, crow ned with tufts and smooi IA
breasts or wings OF birds in superlative cock
pay artistic hats of dark-biue felt, tied about
win ruby, silk cord with kaotted ends; or APP
pear a Ia Marguerite in cream serge, with
straight sailor mats trimmed with striped vel
Vet bands to match the style 9f cuffs anu reyers
The high hat is not SO nigh as 1t vas, but the
trimming Is mounted straigh. up in front of it,
aud looks more aggressive than ever. This
Iseathers are stin wings or made birds, without
nexibility or mobility, and they must be used
Wltnln nxed lines, or not At ALL
AUTUMN FABRIcs
The shops and shop windows show the same
pratseworthy willingness to cultivate all tastes
without prejudice to any. The early autumn
robes oil camel's hair wool with designs in ap-
psique, outlined with beading and embroidery
IN sell colOrs, which were cheap and plentiful
Ia Paris last year, appear in mbers; but
heavy WOODEN materials, striped with terry
velvet, with tuf,ed or bouele effects or showing
square blocks marrow ribbon stripes
varied shades and eolurs are in the nsjority;
are f1G4d
as Ia add another To the dress problems which
bring premature wrinkles To nihe-tenths OF the
CONSCIENTIOUS women buyers. Wooien fabrics
are to be more used than ever, this season, but
they ali ribbed or figured or striped or
plaided in raised lines which often alternate
with simple embroidery effects, such as the
IeTung-bOue and old crOsS-,tich sampler de-
signs There are no flower patterns, or leaves,
or designs covering the entire surface. Every
timing il IN clocks, SQUARES or lines, straight
or diagonal ami combined with "a material diff
ferTeni from Itself, such AS plush or velvet, Or
with seiFcuiored wooden stuffs, having ribbed,
corded or rough broken surface.
ribbed velvet, finer than courduroy, is one
OF the novelties of the season and makes up
beautifully in grey ana leaI shades OF brown.
Some OF the former are In preparation trimmed
win grey lynx, the latter with brown bear;
both are long haired, anu the former Is shaded
from light To dark; the velvet having some
thing Tie varied lisuts and shadows OF the fur.
Striped AiEerienne and India stufs will be
likely 10 enter into the IMPOSITION of elegant
dresses and costumes later in the season; many
ladies having brought home scarfs and pieces
o. India silk from The London shops aud
Colonial exhibition. Already lady VINO is q
famous designer OF special Costumes, and whose
creations are often credited to Worth, has had
some exquisite hand-eniDrOldered material of
this description submitted to her; but what she
will DO win them remains to be seen. Sine will
probably endeAvor To adapt some Oriental
features OF design to modern fashionable re-
QuiremsntA
THE FEATURES OF FALL. DESIGNS.
From present Indications there will be no
very decided departure during the coming sea-
son from the present lines of high fashion.
Draperies are perhaps a little more massive
than iast season; but they still long, straight
aud Laid close, with The exception vi the bou6dai
effect gwen 10 the po,y at the back; and which
stiil holds It's position below the line OF the
waist.
Tue present style OF wraps mas In fact been
built upon this arrangement OF drapery; and its
NJ and stylish effect are dependent upon ii.
Tie Iashionabie materials, too nave been manu-
factured win u view TO panels, vests, fronts and
paris oi Costumes; snd these, therefore, will DE
retained, the Gihcrence and test OF freshness
and elegance being in matters OF detail and
finish.
The new buttons and trimmings for example.
for clotn or wool COSTUMES OF wood or Of
natural seeds or beans, dy ed and worked I'D la
conjunction with other materials. some of The
buttons snow the Natural grain, are polished
and expensive; others are varnistIei, and, OF
course cneaper. SoIne Of The small, Uean-slape
buttons are very original and pretty; and IL
tile faeitIeS existed here iur cutting nj polish
sHs the beautiful, hard and pctrined woods OF
winch we possess such AN immense variety,
bottons could De furnished To AL the world anu
acquire national aud artistic value. the
novelties are not hKe.y TO -upersede altogether
me OronLe and other sly les, which hs,y genuine
crsracier and n relation to certain sly les OF
Costume; but the huge Clasps and buttons of
blocked ANA biackeneu tin, sold for bropzs and
wrought metal, have become So gIaringly com
mon aud vulgar that y new depart are in tnis
direction WAS ineyi stable.
Tie new street basque Is Q very jaunty. small
cOas win tails. which Ars divided by the drau-
cry. but lay Close and descend half way down
upou the skirt, foids Initiating Iue ieuKLhwise
sxIsuAion pocket; ana the general outline Iui,
lowing III reduced form tue iappeis Oh . 3euIle-
mains dress coat. The front Is cut away In
straight lines Iom Q vest that 10 low and
rounded; and finished with a narrow, rulIiug
collar, above which, q close tucked habit skirt
witu standing c1.iAr and narrow tie SHOWS the
the revival oi fashion OF many years ago
The plain, practical vests and coat base ues may
DC relied upcn as one vi the most popular sly
OF the seas3n; aud one by which plain, WOODEN
cloths, eaulslsbair AMI other uuIasuionauIs
materials, 10 oe had now al reduced prices
may be isshionably utilized. Panels may be
made by stripes OF bars the scxrI trimmings:
or ny usiug oars or stripes of ribbon velvet or
or small wooden beads or doubled braid In i,i.h
at u low price.
The Iail Yeats are generally reserved and re-
tained ior indoor wear; The arrang ement Of
Them showing all the variety suggested by
diversified taste and Resources. A lovely din
ner dress OF brocaue In duh yellow and wine
colOred tones, nad hand ercnief front of rich
Hnite lace crossed over cheIuisette OF white
canton crepe, embroidered in narrow god
Gnes. A sash effect WAS produced by q full
piece of wine eolored Vel, Ell placed ACROSS the
HOAt vi TIC VI Tue W1lSt, uusAeu
group OF loops aud ends OF dull yellow satin
rioOon at ti.e sides. The sleeves consisted OF
eross-oarred, gold and wine color, over full
canton crepe, with the gold liues uA lcniu the
enemisetts, and q panei widening TO one side
10 match.
Panels are no longer Of the same width all
Tie way uCwn, nor are draperies alike ON Doth
sides OF the same Oh either side oil the panels
SomellL-es they Snow their greatest depth at
the center vi Inc front and back bOth .,des
being liited high, Lut the front rounding aud
one AIDE oi TIE ack falling square or one aida
o. TIE iront vail faii In straight ioids aud ia
oppcsits, I'm iug one side OF the back. display
eeariain orApery, which hangs half In folds
nall caught oy cords which unite The pSrta OF
'ns .kirs over me intervening space.
vi course Tue early exhiDi lions OF tabriaa and
sty les are Aiways more OF les mi sd And nm.
certain. They are NJ once TIE choce and ths
siuuum oI the previous season; tue I,nisSt"
and the leit-overs being all that lus msuuiac-
tursrs have " guide them In produ ciug adj
vanced modes. ns true novelties, those when
become exact fashion, do not make their np-
genius 10 produce AL original iuex hich strix Cd
the fancy vi the majority, and mAkss Tor ilself
place from Whcn 1T Cannot be driven.
VITALITY OF GooD IDKAa
The one encouraging sign Ira regard to the
dress OF women il tnis, that good thing, q good
fabric, good design or useful idea In counec-
ton with design, cannot be gotten rid Of II
sticks, 81 reappears, IL comes back In other and
improved ioIms, until IL u accepted In
ssgfai part oi dress economy. This WAS the
Ease with the shora walking dress, The tailor cut
ufess. ne tailor made Jacket, the jersey, the
eohsldeiee essential, and subject only 10 trfiiux
uooihcatlons and CHANCES. not actual IDiiS ION.