The Portland daily press., 1886-01-18
FASHIONS.
What to Wear and How to wear it.
MORNING WRAPPERS.

MORNING WRAPPERS.
The newest wrappers for morning wear or
for the sick room are made in redingote
shape, with double breasted fronts and square
sleeves, or else the front is loose chat is,
without darts being taken up), and the back
is tight fitting, with full straight breadths
gathered on below the waist line. These red
ingote wrappers are very handsome when
made of striped velvet such as is used for the
skirts of cloth dresses, and without trimming,
having merely deep turned-over collar,
broad cuffs on the square sleeves, and wide
square pockets on the hips. Large button
moulds covered with plain red velvet fasten
the front and ornament the pockets. Other
velvet gowns of red, green and brown stripes
have soft vest of salmon surah extending
down the entire front, the velvet being seal
Hoped on each side and tapping over the vest.
The surah vest is shirred just below the
neck, and folded thence in pleats to the
waist line, where it is again shirred in rows.
Plush wrappers are made in the same way
for trOusseaux.
The simpler gowns for general use are of
cashmere, or else of the elder down flannels
that are thick, soft, and warm, yet very light
wrappers of the dark:red or pale blue shades
that are universally liked is that of putting
vest of striped velvet down the front from
the neck to the foot. The popular shape is
loose in front without darts, while the back
of the waist is adjusted to the figure down
to the full gathered skirt breadths. The sides
fit smoothly over the hips, and may have sash
ends ON the left side and a large
pocket on the right; but pockets are usually
omitted. All the fullness of the skirt is
massed at the back in a very narrow space.
usually b. ing confined to the width below
the two middle forms, while the adjacent
side forms extend quite plain from the arm
al 49, laa f1a o,1ri6t baff In
striped velvet used in the front is placed in
the middle of the back of the skirt between
breadths of the cashmere of the same width
as the velvet; velvet, however, is easily de-
faced, and gowns used when lying down
should not have velvet in the back.
The eider-down fiannels and the similar
jersey flannels with soft short pile are made
up in the simplest manner, and are pretty
enough of themselves without any trimming
when chosen OF good shades, such as cream
white, poppy red, pale blue or dark cardinal.
The close redingote shape with velvet collar,
cuffs and pockets, and military frogs across
the front for fastening, is the best plan for
these gowns. Dark red velvet accessories
nette, and the same is true of white flannel
wrappers. The striped flannel wrappers
that are used for comfort rather than beauty,
are made absolutely plain, with collar and
cuffs of the same, and are lined throughout
with soft muslin. All their fullness is ADDED Y;
IL oOult pl0dbb Uudt diC iOANSN 49, SN-S -~N-AN~
seam of the back.
HINTsITo AMATEUR DREssMAKERs
In combining two materials in dress the
amateur dress-maker is advised to select
pam fabric for the most important parts,
ana inquired stuff or stripes for the accessor-
les. one Is also warned not to purchase too
much of the figured goods. as prepon-
aerance OF what should be the subordinate
fabric qe 5rae .f from the elegance Of the
rial can be far more effectively arranged than
if six yards were used Flat Side panels. or
wide kilt pleats on one side, or a narrow
front panel between fan pleats, and a fnIl
silk back breadth between two similar widths
of the other fabric, are best for the skirt, and
there will be pieces left for the plastron, or n
narrow long vest, bias collar, and cuffs.
Simulated plain skirts of velvet, velveteen,
or plush can be easily sewed to the founda-
tion skirt, and must not be too deep all
around, though they may extend to the belt
on one side.