Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-09-25

Called Fashionable VIII Wear.
From the New York Sum-
The silk hat this year has rathar more "oeiP
than last years hat, and the bell is almost en-
tirely on the sides-that Is, from In front. the
bell shape is very evident, while from the s1oe
the hat seems almost cylindrical The brim snis
year is heavier than that Of last years hat, ana
has less roll to it. what roll there is being less
FIAT than last years. In the Derby the changes
are not very marked. The crown Is more
tapering than that of last years Derby, and the
top Is more curved. The brim has the same
shape as that OF the silk hat Black Derpys are
going to be as fashionable as ever, but for those
who like lighter cOlory there Is choice between
seal-brown and manilla-brown. tho latter o.
which is the every latest thing out" ana Is
going TO be much worn.
The crush hat this season is modelled aiter
The silk hat instead OF having the form OF aus
own which it has held SO long.
The single-breasted '.Chesterdeld' and the
by polite society, aud the double-breasted
Ulster, with cape, Is to be revamped, whiie me
very swell "Inverness' will be worn with full
| dress by those whose pockets or the innocence
or whose tailors can afford 1t.
For those men who have to get new dress
suits this year, there is little choice of material
Inc whole suit IL made OF blue-black diagonal
cioth blue-black, simply because dead-6lack
diagonal cloth cannot Sc procured from Eng
land. where the dress suitings come from. The
coat will have a shawl roll TO its lapels, which
will be faced with heavy black silk, ana the
silk collars. The dress waistcoat will be just
long enough to reach the line of the coat, and
VIII be cut low enough to show only two bosom
studs of the shirt. The line of the opening will
follow almost exactly the roll OF the coat, the
opening en,I being even larger than that Of last
with propriety be either black or white. and
the black one can be trimmed or untrimmed.
Many walstcoats however, will be OF black or
cream-colored silk or satin, embroidered on
the collar, down the edges and on the pocket
welts, and those who think they would like
n niSfE vpi1 find
backed up by fashion. The trousers of a dress
suit will he rather larger than last years, and
CUT straignt put not baggy. Stripes down the
edges OF dress trousers have gone entirely out
OF fashion.
The newest thing in dress suits is the dress
sack, sack coat of black diagonal, with
shawl roll to the lapels and really much like
dress coat without the tails. This is to be worn
after dinner, when there are ladies present,
Tor smoking or cards or billiards.
The Prince Albert coat will be of black diago.
nal, with four buttons, and double breasted.
heretofore, and the lapes will be faced with
black silk. No Prince Alberts will be worn
fashionable and at the same time wear a brown
or blue 1rock coat, will have to choose between
one OF his ambitions
The entire tendency this year is to have coats
with lower openings than Tor some time buck,
and the sack and morning, or cutaway coats,
VIII follow the tendency as well as the Prince
AiDerts. The sack coats will have less shape
IMAM last year. Trousers, business as well as
dress. are TO be straighter than last year.
and almost indefinite. There will be small
checks and plain plaids and mixtures, but the
loud mixtures and stripes and plaids SO large
that it took two men 10 wear one pattern viii
be things OF the past.
With dress suit a gentleman who is reason
ably fashionable will wear a plain white shirt
and standing collar, with black silk or white
lawn or Indian tape necktie. He will, of course,
We MS own necktie or get some one to tie 1t for
MIN, Dut ne Will on no account get u ready-made
white tie. The moderately fashionable mans
81 rot VIII DC OF iiEen, or pique. lfof linen,
board" front, Or it may be in numerous narrow
pleats The latter is the old-style trying to come
pax, PACK again. II he prefers pique he can have
the corrugatons OF his shirt front running
either vertically or horizontally, or SO arranged
mat they meet at the opening OF the front in o
may perhaps wear shirt with linen or pique
front, embroidered with small flowers or con-
Ventlonal forms dotted over IL at regular inter-
fashionable man will not wear the colored front
dress shirts that vulgarized their wearers
n hast winter Whethsr the shirts 6e
oe plain, anu the shape the most FASH
ionable will have long turn down points.
links. The colors of everyday business shirts
viii also be white, whatever the color OF the
s s ana colored shirts will be as fashionable
Tor business dress as ever. White handker-
chie1s, with narrow hemstitched borders, are
the only things for dress, but narrow coiored
borders will appear on undress handkerchiefs
WINTER does not bring much Of any change in
handkerchieis.
AS Inc tendency Is toward quiet and unOb-
truslveness In suits, the tendency in scarfs and
Ties Is toward lOudness. Scarfs and suits are
Complementary to one another, and the quiet
suit leads up to q striking neck tie. or the 1uet
necktie subdues the loudness of the suit. This
year, the quietness of the suit necessitates q
brilliant scarf. Broad four-in.hands in solid
spots, are TO be the fashionable style OF scarf
For those who do not or cannot tie their own
s scars the same patterns are made up III
Cuff buttons will not be worn this year, links
' IaKlng :. their place almost entirely. These
Inks, as q rule, Will be OF WOrken GOLD. heavy
and solid. Scarf pins this year are yery small
ladies and gentlemen wearing pins OF the same
size anu selecting them from the same stock
Inc latest things in scarf pins are made in the
shape OF birds, beasts and conventional hCures
such as dragons, cut from sea-shells. The tend
tings being fashionable. The watch-fob will
not he brought back this year, but chain may
be worn, even by the ultra fashionable man
with dress suit But it should not be the
chain that he wears ordinarily. The dress chain
Is light, dainty, little bit OF jewelry, without
reach y Just long enough to
hole to his watch pocket. The smaller the
studs man wears in his dress shirt the better,
and the nearer he comes to following the fash.
lou. Only two studs are shown.
The only article OF mems attire that this year
Is to be more conspicuous than last year IL the
canes that they will swing. Gold and silver
headed canes are still correct, but they must be
grotesaue and outiandsh, the more SO the bet
ter. the 'crutch'' head will remain. but the
natural wood head will disappear, as Will the
plain silver head, and grotesque figures OF
ducks or frogs or mOles wilt find their way into
thelr owners mouths, where the old WOODEN
ones used to be. The newest sticks are of silver
hazel and Balkan rose. The former comes
from England, and, when polished, looks NJ q
short distance as though IL were frosted silver
The latter comes, as its name indicates, from
The balkan mountains, and has peculiar red
dish tinSe that Is very beautiful.
Shoes this winter will not be SO pointed but
Will afford plenty OF room for the poor toes SO
long squeezed out of shape. Patent-leather
Sy,0S f>r1
ing shoes, but dress shoes will undergo change.
The oxford tie will disappear, and patent-lea-
ther button or lace boots will take its place,
Tor years past.