Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-04-03
IN VANITY FAIR.
qgE RAGE FOR TINsEL, GAUD
AND SHOW IN DRESS.

,noutation-New and Beautiful Fabrics
s,dDesigns for Those Who Can Appre-
ciate Them,
NEW YORK, April 2.-The most con-
pary opinions are expressed in regard to
the fashions of the present season; so
+ba+ from these it would be exceedingly
alfilcult tor an unprejudiced observer to
obtain any satisfactory idea of what they
are or whether they represent any really
good or beautiful qualities.
1T is perfectly fascinating" remarks
,ne lady. "to even look at the shop win
dows this season. "Did Won ever see so
many pretty things before in your lifeF'
.Ohi mamma" cries a girl, pouring her
eager soul out upon glitter'ng BEADS
isn't that too lOvelyY While an older
woman-refned, but energetic looking
SAWS in a decided tone as she steps from
the door Of a popular and crowded es-
tablishment-"Sop l can't stand TINS;
do LET us 90 somewhere and find some
thing tit to buy and to wear"
l confess to sympathy with the last
speaker. Sucha
''VANTrY FAIR"
as the high stripes, the glttering gauds
the tinselled fabrics, the contrasts of
snowy color, the masses OF coarse lace,
the pendant glass, the beads and big but
tons present, has never been matched
in any PERSONS recollection; for never
before were the resources so numerous
and available for the production and re-
production OF light and color Have we
cot beyond barbarism or the simplest
child's pleasure in beads and-On e
would say not; for the majority seem to
take infinite pleasure in the mere sight of
the glitter: and call that beautiful which
mas less real claim to their admiration
than well-worked, Old-fashlOned
moccassin. In the midst of the display
and forming part of it, are masses every
where, of much trimmed undercothing;
at prices which makes one feel sick at
tue thought Of the wretched mOietY paid
TO the poor women who make them.
There IS no growth to feel proud Of, no
progress in any true life, so long as we
are willing to crafty vanity at the cost
Of other women's lives. The cost of lace
and needlework trimmed undergaTments
has been reduced to the lowest point.
Massed together in a big bay window,
tied with ribbons and lined with pink,
blue, or lavender tissue paper, the lace
and embroidery turned to the front, are
garments which look as if composed al
most wholly of these materials, marked
- cents. 1t is not surprising that girls
and inexperienced women should be a
little bewildered. But there are thou
sands of Otbers-ex experienced well-tO-dO,
who can afford to pay fairly for what is
done for them; vet, who Will go from
block to block and street to avenue. to
buy snowy. over-trimmed chemise or
night-gOwn few cents cheaper or with
little more trimming upon it Tor the price;
for il is less to save the money than to
add to the volume of OrnamentatiOn, that
time is spent and trouble taken. In
one window are wOmen's drawers
tucked and trimmed with embroidery,
finished with bands and button holes for
% cents! How much OF that does the
work-wOman receiver Yet it is not so
long since wOrk-wOmen-seamstr stresses
were paid 80 cents each for the making
alone, of one pair of drawers by hand.
The sewing machine has not done much
for the paid worker.
THE NEW THINGS.
There are many beautiful things; and if
not many that are new; many new ap-
plications of old ideas, if one only knows
where to look for them. The fault OF the
popular" styles is, that they are indis-
criminate. The beauty OF high fashion
that is, of those models which represent
the taste and intelligence Of an expert
one Is adapted TO a special purpose; and
has had thought and care bestowed upon
its every detail. One OF the best tests of
quality to-day is color. All the old, soft,
lovely shades of color, reappear and are
put together in exquisite combinations
without forming any startling contrasts.
These colOrs are fast--iast in cotton as
well as silk, but it is hard to describe
them or to make the unlnitlated apDre.
pi9tn their Valnp Sent "A distance
from the business centres, where women
generally have a better opportunity for
education IN cOlOr-the receiver is very
apt to think she has been imposed upon;
and that "Old" goods have been sent to
her instead of new. The difficulty IN de-
scriblng them lies IN the universal mac
curacy Of the use of terms, and the pu;-
ting Of the natural vocabulary TO artifi-
cial uses. Thus, there is a lovely, new
green, a quiet, grassy shade, which COM
blnes with gray; but IS no more like what
we are accustomed to call "grass-green"
han the green of the paper shade is like
that Of the bark, ground-myrte. All the
different shades OF sandstone and gray
stone, dark brown, old "stOne' blue and
tinted white appear in the finer mater
ials, such as Chuddah cloths and pure In
diau cashmeres; the former being equally
line bat having the camefs hair finish.
novel combination is Rediern's latest
touch in a charming little garment called
the Newport Jacket. The material Is
nne, sandstone cloth, trimmed with
peach velvet; a lovely. dark shade with
soft bloom upon It. Upon this an ALI
oYer' embroidery is executed by hand; in
cord, which is mixture Of peach SILK and
copper thread. The "copper" idea is
quite new and very effective. and the
color is reproduced in the silk lining. A
laughter of one OF the milli0nalres who
nave recently settled in New \ Ork, has
ordered a costume in this combination, to
include jacket and hat. The dress will
nave panel, pointed collar and facing
Tor drapery OF the embroidered velvet,
and It will also form the crown, brim aud
upright leaves for the hat. Some very
stylish, gray wool dresses have been
made recently; the embroidery executed
Win OXydtzed silver cord or rather
Unread. The work is equal TO any done
abroad, but II IL very costly, and few eX-
pect TO possess more than a small guam
tlty OF IL upon a jacket or mantle, but the
eject is very'noyel and distinguished, and
n gray cloth costume with silver en-
Droldered panel and bonnet rs well as
Jacket or mantle would render the wearer
woman Of mark.
LENTEN COSTUMES.
Gray divides the honors with black as a
iehten costume, and tue very newest
service touches consist OF gray, cloth
utess with oXydized embroidery upon the
laeketi and crown and brim OF the bon