Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-10-02

,..u, kr.OrEu IN Clo' hing . 3 TIL @
.,..ro,,fr Of Il. Vo ut'"nNrY Expert
t-"S1. hiug New Under the sun -
,z,uce in EAShiJu--feyerNion to
LIN, Princiu'.s Historic Cos
,.s Eeyived- Odtli'irRtn ornam"
rt.,,,nda, .sraziiian Hu@s, Etrus-
Cold aud Indian Design Airy
uoas. Buttuu> AMI Gloves
Nv Departure in Bannke' chiefs.
Wv YORK. Oct. almost every city
4, +.aIninu has more Of an individuality
af;,.ovn as regards dress than Ne"
Yofk. Boston is severe in its general
o,,rgotp. ,iIcs--iDdivid often uulte
tho otber way. Chicago somewhat pro
,,ornc4d. oan Francisco costly ana con-
,,n,ional. New York made OF every
oraatnra's best" whispers roguishly
barn and Io,al New Yorker in my ears
Uoweverthat may be, the nrst impression
ON returning to New York is, that all in-
divulualities, all conditions aud all oe-
NEE. Of taste ard cultivation are so well
,anresanted in the dress OF the women
mat if is exceedingly difficult to discover
,sbet is fashion" among them and what
;srot Pr,m little ladies in dark tailor
r.,ds sIiitS. with close fitting jacket
hodias allowing modicum OF vest. with
Vim, If collar and narrow SILK tie, brush
,oairst women who sail along III orlght
,,stnrtium color and brown or green
crowned with tufts and smooth breasts or
>y,pus of birds in superlatlNe cockatoo
fashion. Girls in dark blue ana req us
,,tav artlsfic hats of dark blue telt, tied
oholit with ruby silk cord with knotted
ends. or appeara Ia Marguerite In cream
serge. with straight sailor hats, trimmed
win strioed velvet bands to match the
stvle 0t cuts and revers. The high Dat Is
NOT so high as it was, but the trimming IS
mounted straight up in front OF 1T ana
looks more aggressive than ever. The
feathers are suh' wings or made BIRDS,
without tiexibllity or mobility; aud they
must be used within fixed lines or not at
all.
AUTUMN FABRICS.
The shops and shop windows show the
same Trustworthy Willingness to Guilt
Vate all tastes without prejudice to any.
The early autumn robes OF Gamers halr
wool with designs in applique, outlined
with heading and embroidery IN self
colOrs, which WeIe CHEAP and plentiful IN
Paris last year, appear i'll numbers; out
heavy wooden materials, striped with ter
nv velvet. with tufted or hOucle effects. or
showing square blocks or narrow RIBBON
stripes in varied shades and colOrs are In
the majority; and are SO pronounced ana
intinitely diversified as to add another 10
me dress problems W hich bring premature
wrinkles TO nine-tenths Of tue cOnscientl-
Ous women buyers. Wooden fabrics are
to be more used than ever this season, but
they are ribbed or figured or striped or
plaided In raised lines, which often alter
nate with simple embroidery effects, such
as the herriDg-bone and old crOss-stitch
sample designs. There are no flower pat
terms, or leases, or designs covering the
entire surface. Everything is in blocks,
squares or lines. straight or diagonal and
combined with material different from
itself: such as plush or velvet; or with
selt-cOl0red WOODEN stuffs, having ribbed,
corded or rough broken surface.
A ribbed velvet finer than cOrdroy is
one of the novelties of the season and
makes up beautifully in gray and leaf
shades of brown. Some of the former are
in preparation trimmed with gray lynx,
The latter with brown bear; both are long
haired, and toe former is shaded from
light to dark; the velvet having something
the varied lights and shadows of the fur.
Striped Algerienne and India stutfs will
be likely TO enter into the composition of
elegant dresses and costumes later in the
season; many ladies having brought home
scaris and pieces OF India silk from the
London shops and Colonial exhibition.
Already lady who is q famous designer
OF special costumes, and whose creations
are OMEN credited to Worth, has had some
exquisite hand-embrOidered material of
this description submitted to her; but
what she Will do with them remains 20 be
seen. She Will probably eGGeaVor to
adapt some Oriental features of design
to modern fashionable requirements.
THE FEATURES OF FALL DESIGNS,
From present indications there will he
koEery decided departure during the COM
ING season from the present lines of high
lash on. Draperies are perhaps a little
more massive than last season: but thew
are still long, straight, and laid close.
win the exception Of the bouffant effect
gwen to the pouf at the back; and which
still holds lis position below the line OF the
waist.
The present style OF wraps has in fact
oeen built upon this arrangement of
Grapery; and It's MT and stylish effect are
ueFenuent upon II. The fashionable ma
'rlsis' TOO, have oeen manufactured with
We" 70 panels, vests, fronts and parts OF
costumes; and these, therefore, will be
retained, the difference and test of fresh
LESS and elegance being IN matters of de-
tail and finish.
Inc new buttons and trimmings, for ex-
ample, Tor cloth or wool costumes, are Of
Woo OF oil natural seeds or beans. dyed
anu worked up in conjunction with other
materials. Some of the buttons show the
natural graiu, are polished and eXpeD-
si'e; oineEs are varnisned and of course
sSeaper' some of the small beam
Snapea buttons are very original and
P'etty ana Ii the facilities existed here
ioi cuIIlng ana polishing the beautiful,
nalu ana petllhed woods, OF which we
da11ess such an immense variety, buttons
eoulu De furnished TO all the world, and
"Cguire national and artistic value. The
,o,eIe'es are not likely TO supersede alto
he'9er Inc bronzes and other STYLES,
I%tcn nave genuine character and a re-
.aHoh 10 certain styles OF costume; but
sue huge clasps and buttons OF blocked
" a Dlackened lin, sold for bronze and
nUuShJ metal, have become 80 glaringlv
,,nihon and vulgar that new deDar.
'u NJ III this direction was inevitable.
s iue new street basque is Il very iauptv.
I ImNli coat with tails, when are divided
p -! we drapery, out lay close and descend
,a. "aV down upon the skirt: folds imi-
rGuE The lengthwisc. extension pocket.
S Smu tne general outline following in re.
S Sueeu form the lappels OF a gentleman's
s- lle 'front.' is cut away in straight lines
t'ou vest that Is low and rounded: and
tr'sled with narrow, rolling collar:
~ winch a close, tucked habit skirt,
che. standing collar and narrow tie