New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-04-04
THE FRENCHWOMAN'S DRESS.
SPRING FASHIONS OF WORTH RODERIGUES
REDFERN AND FELIX.

SPRING FASHIONS OF WORTH. RODERIGUES,
REDFERN AND FELIX.
IFKoM AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRIBUNE
PARIS, March 15.-Present fashions take us
into the Middle ACES With the exception OF the tour
nure which il maintained large all articles Of
dress have a downward tendency everywhere the long,
straight line observed. Precious metals suS rs gold
and silver will enrich materials whose cut Will recall
the plastic ut OF ancient Embroidered fabrics set
wth gems form parts Of al cerenoniOus dress stoles
incrusted silver aud gold pondcrous with sacerdoa
dignity, appear on mundane apparel Rcspiendent cn-
and worn, and the Venetian dalmatca
fashioned with precious brocades for modern chae-
lane The PARIS drcssmasers not 81 anxious t. in
modes to follow that OF Dy-sone times 1t
perhaps dearh OF ideas that compes them to resort
to imitation.
The TIippque races. which take place early
in April yearly seized preteyt for the display OF
new spring toilets. Worth, Rolergucs, Rediern and
Felix all busy making up costumes for that event
Rodergues smaking effective gown for tho Marchion-
ess Belhnuf nee de Murny. It plain skirt vi hor-
stripes beige silk and brown plush Over this
falls long nbeponted poohdse, Ia fan-lke shape
in front and win long, straight, fat folds In tne back.
slightly pufcl aud drsped about the tOurnure the ma
teria OF the pOlonase is coarse fOuard OF graduated
shades of beige darkennc into deep of brown The
is fdled shirrcd in front and with
stole of old gold. over this SOwn is thrown garment
shaped somewhat after the ancient taoard the I0n-
aud back. shortened and opened the Sides Is
fastened about the waist with lcJss girie and orna
mented with u htlf-noon gOrsct about the neck This
original made OF soft brown raie covered
old gold, furnished sill yer and bcise passenenteries
The "caic" thing Is 20 have ones coat oi-'rms en-
brodercd the left shoulder in oden times With
this the Marchioness will one of the new
headgears which the Partisan mlihers are now intro
duciug. 1t Is modification OF the capOte and the hat
has somewhat shape OF high turban. The brin
II closely fits the roundness OF the head and it is
placed back the bonnet and not the
forehead As the hat soft and very high and
resembles the P0ps tiara minus the three crowms The
Of the Marchi9ncss has brown velvet brim. soft
of beige fable. aud is trimmed in front with null
ticolDred bows of narrow ribbon.
For these Redeem goes deep into eccentrcity.
He is the ladies' tailor for high sport. and his
bear the stamp OF the intrepid amazon. He has
special goods for special designs for yacht
ing bright scarlet hunting suits with hundng horns
IL the cloth FOR those who are fond OF following
The field and for the races cloths strewn with horse
shoes and whips Ladies these peculiar
costumes possess infntuis of them,
for their originality distinguishes the wearer
that they cano be worn more than once or twice. Rod
fern showed a model intended for Russian princess.
for whom novelty il the chief Of fashion. dark
blue ady cloth skirt is lestooned in the shape or horse
shoes nails marked in relief This falls over
an underskr of scarlet whose dense gold embrJidere,
are just visible the lover edge, and through
sashes OF the blue each side There full blua
draperies the back with scarlet The peculiar
corsage consists OF a tunic resembles blouse IN
'front.' is fastened with gold belt and leng;hens into
gathered pointed panels below the waist. square band
gold encirces the neck aal the sleeves plain and
tight; With this costume the Princess is to high
turban whose pointed helmet OF blue velvet
trimmed with gold wing plaque on each side.
Combination gowns are worn more than ever. Plain
goods made with bendngs with striped aud checked
materials.
saw the following effective model at the establish
ment Of Felix cOrsaga skirt made OF striped
satin and silk OF peculiar shade called mignOacttc
drab." over this plain gown ia thrown drlperies OF
scienue OF the color. These drapcres dis
posed form shrred abots front and back OF the
body; they expand into drapcres the back OF tho
and into wide pleated ran in the front. The abOts
around the neck, around the small Of the waist and the
drapeIes front and back OF the skirt all joined to-
geher by thick bands composed OF pale cmerads
and seed pearls The necklace and girdle form deep
points in front.
For quiet. unostentatous street costumes. the plain
skirts made OF goods wide velvet and India cash
mere stripes. them draped long pOlOhaises OF
the plain cashmere Felix trying to revive the fashion
making the sleeves OF different material from the
body. For instance n the abOve-men Toned toilet he
will have plain velvet sleeves or sleeve, made OF the
AZ usual the short Jacket Will he worn with spring
costumes Redfern has great variety OF them. Most OF
tnem are lined with dark silk and have the front
made as 10 be thrown back as revcrs or tapped over
forming double breast They made close ting
as a
blue and green and lgh shade OF beige Inc elegant
Parsans have adopted the "Sapho mantle FOR travel
Ing and for carriage wear The garment IS lone. gath
cred around deep yoke. made OF India cashmere
and lined with checkered iouard. over tho deep yoke
swell" coachnien The elegant calling visite has
not changed much yet II is made very short with
detached sleeves, and the material is generally tue
thcky covered with jet steel and gold and silver in
mixed or separate designs 49,. .-.. -,
as was worn by Madame n dc 9ae oo nad
Oriental tnrnan with wide ends hanging ei,her At
the aide back. Already m0dhcatonOf that IN becom
ing headceAr has been seen a of audscious
Prsienues fond of forcing the IN hon.
C.pOtes most graceful and becoming of all head
smaller than last season The new ones have trans
parent crowns Straw, Jet hliPree work plain lace or
tnle all alike light and airy requiring but simple
tut of feathers and sgretts flower lace bird Of
bright plumsge 10 add the finishing touch to their
beauty The crowns Of hats are made higher than ever
The brlms narrONe and are turned or coled They
are all lined inside with bright shades OF velvet or silk
IL rOugh-audreadies. the Drlms are doubled win
fine English The Rembrandts and Galnsborcughs
ali Ed S of rSs0 anG form - 9Cw VAIN IN
Inc costumos-of the short coat, straight SKIRT high
In nv spring visits to Worth Roderigues and Felix 1t
was amusing II not instructive to note the manner OF
critical eye. Worth is more ponuerout @lu ncsy .han
artistic His toilets at once attest certain weight APP
nesh and wears There is certain Indifference to the
necessary refinement OF delicate details lie displays
The nlceties OF body and sleeves Roderisues, the
other hand. exces in artistic finish which she brings
iuto the m!uutest shirs. tucks. sleevebands In
The fashionings OF intricate folds rounding the
form and In the refined transpArences
which reveal it. Her work shows the inventive genlds
OF Partisan woman full Of refined taste. worth IL
eccentric Koderigues is distinguished Worths toilets
i'm attract the eye like the apparon OF pro-
beauty IN a drawing room. ROdriguess bear
resemblance to MeissOnler's pantings-thry demand
the scrutiny OF a conDosseur Worth belongs to the
i'm school Rodergues TO that OF the idesi,t
Perbaps both are extremists in their and u Is
Felix has obtained the required jusfe mife There
10 IA harmony OF ensemble In Felix's make that Is
aways pleasant TO the eye Oftentimes the skrt u go
artlscsy attached to the body by bands trimmings or
pufs that the putting and taking on OF the toilet
seems a my stery Felix Is moderate Ia price than
tho other two monarohs who reign over fashion Tneeo
three poentaes feel the full value OF their reputation
and TO mDds IL s not 1atery 10 rank them with
the greatest OF modern painters for do they no largely
contribute to the perfection Of women and make living
pictures OF theml