Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-01-02


hne upon tne lscket and fnt drapery ana
a goid braided monogramh the centre OF
me mum. ne vest and sic panels are oil
the velvet, and the vests fastened with
small gold buttons
A third, braided co,ume, shows an
immense am0lnt of pdent work. The
design forms c.Ose laddfS OF double loops
3t each end OF a crossbr, the loops pass
ing round double roWsJf 'O1licers' but
tons placed cl0ely togther. This design
| covers the front, yet and panels. The
corners Of the collar I'D cuffs are turned
back, showing the silAining. The Jacket
Is loose and cut awayrom tie vest.
SOME NoVEEFFECTs
ia walking costUmes.onsist, first, of a
basque with triple recS. forming a series
OF folds, which are buoned, one over an
other, 10 the lett, anCtaper down 10
point. The left side Othe skirt forms
panel TO match. II back hangs in
straight folds. long III front, draped up
on the right side.
A costume Of darkgray wool has
Wlde, plain front coveld with diamonds
OF black velvet, Killed anels OF the wool
MI the side, and the ba8 is laid in large,
straight folds pulled D under the coat
basque, the straight yst-frOnt CT which
Is crossed with diamond of black velvet
a handsome skating atft consists OF a
military Jacket OF clotl with astrakhan
NUTS, cuts, standing cJar aud border
Black Hussar cap of astskban, with flap
OF cloth, turned over ant butt0ned down
upon the astrakhan.
The crOssed-OVer front are extremely
fashionable, III basqUes and pOlOnaises
ana "a novel elect is proceed by having
the hrst three buttons, Stirling from the
shoulder, OF large size an artistic char
acter and the rest small, s. close, of the
self color and simply usedor fastening.
Before leaving the doma( of cloaks and
costumes let me mentiO q charming
effect produced upon broze cloth by an
embroidery OF ivy leaves and berries,
executed in natural shaded colors. The
orn9meutatiOn was almOs accidental.
The husband OF the owner happened in"
during the important process Of trying
on" and while the question TRIMMINGS
was being discussed. The Idly was diff
cult to please in this matter, lut she could
embrolder skillfullY, and Ter husband
rapidly drew a leaf design lpOn collar,
front Of cuffs, the single-pOilpd revere,
side Of basque, and back drapy, which
was turned over at one side an, fell in a
series OF folds, showing the rgerse side,
upon which the decoration weld natu-
rally be executed. The front VAS laid in
series Of wide side plalts. abNe which
was q short, draped apron, in he centre
of which was also drawn bit C. the nat
ural vine-like LEAKAGE The costume was
great SUCCESS when completed which it
was " ia the work of a few evenings. and
IT need not be said that the lady vas very
proud OF it.
EMBROIDERY,
it is 10 be understood and remembered. is
not an ephmereal fashion, it s oily in its
Infancy with Us as yet. or handwCrk we
have little 20 show aud nothing to buy.
Our embroidery is machine-nade, import
ed or executed by individuals or their
own use. The imported embroidery is
made in converts, or by peasant women
and is sci and conventional in style and
design. But there will come a time when
orr yOun" women will be able TO beautify
simple materials far beyond tue arr OF the
mQdiste, by their own handiWork, and
VIXEN their talent viii be expended in
making their homes and themselves aad
the " Orld itself more beautiful. and not in
vain l0n2ings for money making career.
There was little prObnecy OF this in a
pretty toilet Of pale pink cashmere worn
recently by Young gill, which had cost
her exactly $40, tor material. The orna-
ment8ti0n was an embroidery, executed
by herself, OF pink tinted daisies with tiny
yellow hearts, done in silk loss, the soft
lace at neck and wrists being the only al
dltiOn.
Many novel ideas have been introduced
into embroidery during the past year, de-
signed 10 furnish variety and aid in the
elective treatment of different materials.
The Irish industrial societies directed by
cultivated ladies, are using old Celtic de
signs upon their beautiful linen fabrics,
while the French are utiGsing a beauti-
iul, creamy etamine cloth, cheap, yet
lending itself to exquisite needle work.
whicu shoWsequally as wei on one side
rs the other A great dea Of applique
work, outlined ana filed in with needle
work, in which cords, gold thread and
tinsel are used. But there are more or
less meretriciOus and temporary, what i,
lasting and wiz grow moe and more
fashionable as time goes on. and art edu-
cation and knowledge Of needlework
(now one Of thelost arts) become more
general, are Studies from nature, trans
ierred to . sod groundwork. and simple
forms in dress.2 Why cannot we live pO-
etTy as well as admire 10?
DRESS AND DRESSING AT THE OPERA.
Al the opera one sees beautiful articles
of dress, but not much really beautiful
dressing. 1t is surprising that ladies
cannot see that bare necks are not
dress" are not effective unless beauti-
ful i'm themselves aud set in beautiful
and elittering environment. A hand
some neck, of which these not too much
or 100 little, Is rare possession, Jewels
ft 10 adorn il do not belong to the ma
iority, and unless there are these essen
tiais 10 begin with. a low-necked dress is
cut OF place AZ the Opera, where the au-
dieuce make part Of the spectacle, and
every detail Of the individuality OF those
who inba0il cue box tiers. lends itself to
the general ensemble.
skirts show but little even in the most
prom neut or exposed boxes. II Is the
upper part Of the dress, from the waist,
that is important aud demands more con-
sideratiOn than is given TO 10. The fault
doubtless In part arises from the occu-
pants OF boxes taking too near views OF
each other. They do not look at them.
selves rom sufficient distance, or a.
part Of the spectacle" as seen from the
parquet; else they would give more at
tention to details and to satisfying and
harmonlziug effects.
Strange to say. lt is not the women with
the most beautiful neCks hoeXpOse them
in this way. Many of these understand
how much more attractive is "A charm
suggested than one exhibited TO all CON-
Crs. one Of the bcst known leaders OF
Now York society, beautiful woman,
wears always q style OF dress that makes
her look like a picture. IL consisted at a
recent performance Of "Ihe Queen OF