davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

tombs of Scandinavia have been rifled for
models of jewel mounting. Engagement
rings are being made on the pattern discov-
cred i'll the Island of Bornholm. in the form
Of twisted cord the two ends being I'M
Soidered and free. doubling over each other
The Danish cross. called Princess Waldo
mar, is also shionable-coped exactly
from that found i'll Denmark. Ii is of very
curious shape and bears at each point an
enameled figure in red, green and blue. The
baTbaric style Of jewelry is considered the
most beautiful just now; So silver mount
ingS are replacing gold. Really the models
should be in bronze. as those copied belong
principally to the bronze age, but no woman
would fancy this uitra-faithful reproduc-
ton.
The new fans of Grape powdered with
shining spangleS, having all the colorS of
the rainbow, are very effective in the even
ing. 1t looks as if the powder of crushed
jewels had been sifted over them. A lovely
example is delicate painting on black of
Christmas eve in a French village. The
rubies of the lights. the diamonds of the
virgin, the sapphires of the moonlight form
a sparkling whole most elegant for evening
wear. An elegant fan is of black gauze APP
parently spangled with diamond dust. In
the center is the monogram of the owner III
imitation diamonds. The effect is superb.
Il is the latest note of elegance, and ali our
bellies are having their monograms thus
worked in their gauZe fans.
Wells AND GLOVES.
Colored wells are not as much worn; they
are not considered to be generally becoming
and are also bad for the sight. Fine wells
spotted with white or black and white wells
spotted with black are worn crossing the
face exactly where they are most becoming.
Some ladies cover the upper lip, but the
line just below the nose is that most gener
ally adopted. The veil is put on frs in
order not to spoil the effect of the bonnet.
Gloves of kid are worn. though not so
much as during the winter, when hardly
any others were seen, but with bright
weather the giants de Suede have made
struggle for supremacy over the beautifully
embroidered silk gloves which are so great
success; but as the season advances the
Suede glove must conquer on account of the
heat of the sun, which, when it becomes
very hot, SpoilS Silk-glOved hands.
For ladies who admire white and cream
hosiery are shown stockings of cobweb
tneness in Isle thread. The very veins in
lady'S instep can be seen through the
delicate tissue of these rare novelties. Silk
stockings are eXquistely embroidered,
many of them in beads, pretty to look at
upon the foot but not very comfortable if
the foot comes in contact with any surface.
The beads, being cut, are very apt to prove
aggressive. ...
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
LONG HAIR AGAIN THE RAGE.
The Trade in Ladies. Switches and
CUrls Gets a Bic Boom.

CUrlS Gets a Big Boom.
'It is fact and fact, too, that causes
no little surprise, that the ladies have tired
of the cruel demand of fashion which for a
time required them to wear abbreviated
Tinglets and curls and heads almost shorn
of their natural adornment' So spoke
yesterday an importer of human hair who
does business in one of the fashionable
thOroughfares. There are scores of femi-
nine foibles," he continued, for which
ample defense can be made. inasmuch as
they tend to enhance personal beauty, and
that object attained even extremes are JUS
tiiiable. With the frenzy for short hair, no
such apology is pertinent, for of sixty
females who crop their wigs, fifty-eight are
scarecrows by daylight and Nightmares
to memory. With youth. all schemes are
possible and all sins pardonable, since youth
itself is loneliness. But the thick-headed,
long-eared, wooden-throated females, with
jaws like the arms of an Egyptian water
jug, skin like the covering on a head
cheese, and features narrowed by so few
as five-and- twenty years. who voluntarily
go into short hair deserve to be banished
from the hauntS Of men until outraged ma
ture Is able to recover herself from the
awfulneSs of cranial promontories and
In the very latest fashion plates from
Paris puffs are used in great profusion, and
curled pieces are appliqued to either fore
head or temple, according to the require
ments of the face. The leader has the hair
mass of puffs and loose twists from the
crown of the head to the extreme end of
the neck. the last puff covering the clasp of
the necklace. This style presupposes a
full evening toilet cut decollete back and
front. All other styles begin with French
twist in the back that starts at the nape of
the neck and is taken to the crown, where
it is laid in soft japanese curls. There are
no straight banks. all being made on water
wave MEETINGS, or if cut, curled in loose.
round ringlets. In every instance
the couture is decorated. one
with a small blackbird about to fy
from a little thicket of grasses or fine
flowers, another with a hnmming bird lust
spreading its wings to fly, and third with
knot of blue ribbon. A lovely garden
couture is surmounted with an odd little
poke of electric blue silk, trimmed with
ascending loops of vivid red ribbon.
Orange beads identity the bridal couture.
While the above are the regulation outfits,
and reproduced because of that fact it is
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

soft felt hat or Tam O'Shanter sits
coquettishly on the head, and tennis shoes
encase the slender feet.
The few young ladies who have tried to
play tennis in the present fashionable cos
tune have desisted after enc or two efforts
Did you see Edith trying to play in her
new fawn cloth?" said one young lady to
another well, she looked too awfully
absurd for anything, Her waist was so
tight she could not raise her arms, and her
heels so high she could not run. and with
the feathers on her Gainsborough she did
look too funny"
One member of the Pansy club, a pretty
blonde. wears bewitching costume of dark
blue flannel. The skirt falls in full pleats
10 her slender ankles, and Is embroidered
about the edge with scarlet and yellow in
tiny racQuets, balls and tennis shoes. The
Jersey waist of dark-blue is held about the
hips by broad sash of scarlet SILK and a
little cap of the same color is worn on the
back of her head. Her tennis apron of
scarlet and blue is embroidered to initiate a
net.
sparkling brunette, tall and slender.
who plays in the court of the Willow club,
wears dress of creamy-white boating
bannel. About the edge of the skirt is a
broad boX-plait embroidered in golden
racQuets. The apron drapery ends in
sash back, and the plated waist is held by
a broad belt OF golden braid The Tam
O'Shanter hat of white and gold brings out
the gloss of her jet-black treSses coiled
coQuettiShly below it, and she wears black
stockings and little tennis shoes of brown
and black
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Colors in style This Summer.

Chamois color is more popular this sea-
son than ever, and is seen in the greatest
profusion of fabrics, both silk and wool, in
high and heavy weights.
Hunters green is very elegant and re-
cherche when used with channels color.
''PeachblOw" is the latest thing in shades
of red. 1t harmonzes well with copper
color.
Dark blue, it is said, will be favored
color for the coming summer.
Dark blue and white Or dark blue and
red, although not new, Is always welcome,
because tasteful.
We are also to have a season of white
costumes, which will be good news to
many because of its becomingness.
There is daintiness and freshness about
white toilets. in which new effects can
always be produced by change in trimming,
and they are suited to almost all complex
ions. and, one may say, to all ages. A
pretty little woman appeared in opera not
long since. coming upon the stage il the
first act with short white satin dress
drimmed with pearls, her hair hanging, and
many exclaimed "How ssweet and pretty
she looks" In the last act she wore the
same dress, with the looping of the skirt let
down to form train, thereby disclosing
more pearl ornaments; her hair dressed
high on the head, ornamented with pearls
and you would not have supposed for mo-
ment that it was the same costume, the two
appeared so entirely different.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Gloves, Boots and Hose.

It is said that black gloves are coming in
again and that they are likely to reign in
full and half glove lengths. But this is only
rumor; no signs of them are seen as yet.
Patent leather VIII be very stylish for
foot-gear, but is Internationally hot for
summer wear and cracks badly.
s Black satin CATERS are stylish for wearing
with low shoes, and are imported as nov
city from Paris.
The fashionable gloves for summer wear
will be of jersey silk. This is an English
fashion, and it is destined to be popular
Novel features in hosiery for this season
consist in the new colors, bright scarlet
being the most conspicuous. An innova-
ton and very desirable one is in the black
silk hose with cotton feet. Such hose will
outwear the whole silk hose two or three
times.
Polka dotted hose are fashionable in half
mourning wear. The dots are white ON a
black ground.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Novevties for Summer

Costume novelties for the coming sum-
mer include MikadO foulards-silks with
fringes almost as large as a cart wheel, in
yellow shades on grounds of brown, black
and mahogany red. These are intended for
front breadths OF side panels, or entire under
skirts of dresses, the upper skirts and drap-
cries consisting of plain foulard silk of one
of the colors of the figured stuff These,
however, are classed as high novelties, and
will be worn only by few spring leaders of
the fashion.
The most of the spring goods show re-
turn of taste to the old style simplicity of
thirty years ago.
The figures on the new sateens and cali
Goes are small and medium sized.
The stripes of the new ginghams. zeph-
yrs, foulards and percales are narrow, and
when borders, blocks and bars are seen they
are not as a rule, of large size.
Brocaded silks and velvets and wool
brooches are not so popular as they were last
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
New Coiffures and Hats.

Horsehair braids are again fashionable,
and when they are ietted with cut-glass
beads they are more effective and less heavy
than the whole bead bonnets.
A new invoice in round hats in fancy
straws shows for the most part high crowns.
The trimming is worn more to the back and
is high.
Stylish English turbans are imported to
wear with tailor made suits, and are
trimmed with large loops of fancy ribbon
placed at the front of the hat The strings
OF the new bonnets are OF medium length.
just long enough to tie in a double bow.
These strings are of ribbon with fancy
edges.
The latest freak in hair dressing is to coil
tight braidS around the back of the head.
1t hardly commends itself for its beauty.
but mukes a blonde look the German
Gretchen to perfection, and the brunette is
not at all improved by these tresses. How
ever, it may please the English-looking
young woman who wears turbans and
tailors suits and the hair dressers, who
would be called upon to furnish any num-
Der of switches and braids.
Rush hats are worn of swamp flag and
have very durable look. They are very
stylish.
Pretty little caps for mourning wear are
made of colored Grape Isle plated in the
finest folds.
The latest clacque hat has cover of jer-
sey silk.
a heavy wilk cord and tassels trims
some of the spring turban hats in the Rus
sian style.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

velvet, with vest and panels in the
sleeves of white satin. The beads are cut
jet and form a collar, fichu and belt, be-
sides edging the sleeves.
Many Of the imported gowns are edged
with large beads, one of dark blue cloth
and silk having many beads of carved tan
wood about the Louis XVIth waist, and
another of gray silk cashmere for the street
having eighteen fringeS of iridescent beads
upon the front.
Some of the bead dresses are nothing but
beads, and when worn give even the pref
test girl the appearance of knight in
armor. When the bodices are made close
fitting, and the skirts with full trains
caught back tightly, the effect is singular
but not at all pretty.
Jet beads in both black and white are
quite expensive, little string of small
ones costing about 10 cents and those an
inch in diameter about 5 cents apiece. and
half as many of the latter are used on one
dress.
The light tinted beads in bronze, blue.
pink, yellow. green and white are used
principally on evening dresses and generally
with very beautiful effect, as they glisten
in the gaslight like diamonds. On light
colOred dresses they are used in great pro-
fusion.
Steel beads and fringes are in favor for
trimming wraps and the short little Shout
der capes that are so fashionable. One of
the most exquisite garments with
this trimming is dark violet vel
vet dolman worn by Mrs. August
Belmont. 1t is almost covered with little
palm leaves made of steel beads and has
deep fringe of them with amethyst buckles.
Another imported wrap is of bronze velvet
grenadine embroidered in steel birds.
In millinery, beads play quite role this
spring. They are formed into birds and
pompons, used to edge the brims and
crowns and embroider the net and lace used
for trimmings. The arm part of the new
gloves for evening wear are beaded and
satin shoes for the ball room have fringes
of these tiny things about the top. Collars
and cuffs and belts of beads are worn with
plain dresses. and some of the wells are
dotted with them.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

season, but they are by no means out of
vogue, and are used in combination with
plain silks and satins and plain wool veil
ings, cashmeres and other light woods in
forming costumes more or less dreSsy, &C
cording to the fancy of the wearer.
The popularity of the broche goods has
been of too long duration for them to be
driven from the field in single season.
The use of lace and embroidery in trim
ming wash fabrics and light wool yelling is
almost universal. Both the embroderes
and laces, particularly the so-called Orien-
tai laces, are brought out in width sufficient
to form the entire skirt on the front
breadths OF side panels or back draperies of
white or tinted dresses, the material being
yelling, French nainsook or null muslin.
A snowflake CLOTH is pure white cloth
which is novelty in the market here. 1t
has pretty crape-like effect, and is dotted
with tint silk points, from whence it de-
rives its name. 1t is a very lightweight
cloth Of mixed silk and wool. 1t combines
well with silks and satins and Grapes so
easily that it is much used this season for
the lightest street and party dresses.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
THE SEASON is RERE.

from her bed doth rise,
And around her paper curls towel deliber-
ately ties,
And puts on faded wrapper that is much
the worse for wear
And descends into the cellar with grim, de-
termined air;
When there's heard an awful gathering in the
regions down below,
And shouts of "Jane, come hurry up! How
can you be so slow?''
When you descend the stairs to take your
matutinal mush,
And in the hall you're tripped up by mop
and whitewash brush
These signs are tull of omen. at this season of
the year;
They tell the wretched husband that house
cleaning time is here
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Empress nnd SHomeIess.

The following is the latest story that is
told about the Empress Eugene, who has
ever been striking figure since the day she
charmed Napoleon III. with the wreath of
violets which she wore in her golden hair.
''Twas morning then, but now the night
has come" A few days ago, says the
chlonicler, visitor to the Marcus Church
at Venice, where the eX-empresS is now
staying, observed lady dressed in deepest
mourning, kneeling in long silent prayer
before one of the side affairs When at
last she rose she looked about
her in search of something which
she missed, and then walked slowly
away. supporting herself by the wall,
toward the entrance The stranger politely
offered his arm, which was gratefully ac
cepted, the lady meanwhile explaining that
one of the beggars must have taken her
silver-headed walking-stick away, without
which she was very helpless" Outside
the church two liveried footmen were wait
ing; the stranger on retiring offered his adj
dress card (al as, for cruel Nemesis, he was
a German from BerlinD, glancing at which,
the lady was seen to shudder slightly and
then return the civility by whispering,
Empress Eugene, and-homeless."
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Street and House Jackets.

Lightweight rough cloths are used for
jackets for rough wear at seashore or noun
tains.
Cactus cloth is very properly employed in
making stylish jackets and wraps for street
wear
Round waists will be much worn during
the coming summer.
Silver and copper braid are used on mil
itary jackets.
Heavy silk jerseys in black have an edge
of cut glass beads in anvil shape.
White and deep-red silk jerseys are to be
very fashionable the coming season.
A white linen shirt front, like those
worn by men, with stiff white tie, is the
favorite finish for black or colored cos
tune which has an Elton jacket corsage.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
Women in Newspaper Offices.

Most people unfamiliar with newspaper
offices, says the gallant and kind-hearted
editor of the Boston Record, have large
amount of curiosity about the workers in
them, and especially about women who
may chance to earn their living by writing.
A woman journalist is regarded by the gem
erai public as peculiar creature, some
what isolated from the rest of her sex by
the fact of her occupation and by her
knowledge of the mysteries of. newspaper
making. The little army of woman writers
for the press is constantly increasing.
though they are still only about 500 in the
country who do regular editorial work on
papers of position.
The three great requisites for woman
journalist are good health, good sense lind
good temper. Armed with these any girl
who really wishes to enter journalism, and
has knack writing, may cope for sue
cess. There is always market for the best
work. and editors are progressive people.
who recognize fully the growing need of
feminine representation in the newspapers
whose readers are so largely women For
women in general read the papers more and
more every year, and those among them
who have an instinct which tells them what
the rest wish to read may hope for a hear
ing for what they have to say. This sug-
gests the naming of an indispensable factor
in journalism which is hard to
describe to the outside aspirant.
Among writers for the daily
press it is called "the newspaper nose,'
and unless one has this nose, at least in a
rudimentary stage. one need not expect to
make good journalist. In other words.
unless one has gift at discrimination, of
knowing what people want to read. of
grasping the spirit of the week, so to speak.
one cannot become good newspaper writer,
no matter what capabilities she may have
in what is called distinctively literary work
But even more often than not such capa-
blities are best trained in journalism,
where, in the midst of much that is evan
escent and trivial. an earnest mind can
lay hold of life in way that often proves
as effective in later literary work as the de-
gree of facility with the pen which is also
obtained.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

The first ball hit me very hard
Before I'd time to move
And no one seemed TO care at all
Except because I'd stopped the bail
And made Fifteen to love-!
And then they laughed across the net
And served "gentle bail.
At which | struck with AL MY might
And sent it flying out OF sight
Behind neighboring wal.
My partner was Harvard lad
With whom I'd had some fun,
But as the games went on, he eyed
The girl upon the other side
As if she'd been the ore.
And so we played for what seemed hours
Across that dazzling net,
Until at last l overheard
My partner breathe wicked word,
Because we'd ''loSt the set.'
OF course. for those who brave the sun
Prepared to pay the price;
And rush about with tumbled hair,
And like to hear men curse and swear
1t may be very nice.
H. W. F., in Life.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
THE RAGE FOR BEADS.
A Fashion which Might Indicate
ABORIGINAL ANCESTRY.

H
Aboriginal Ancestry.
1t would seem as though the American
women had imbibed the love of the Indian
for bead and glistening baubles for they
are used by the hundreds or street dresses,
carriage robes, bornets, hats, gloves and
even shoes. Beads of every hue and
shape, every size and material, are shown
in the stores, and walk up Fifth avenue
any bright afternoon would convince one
that they are worn. There are jet beads
in black and white, glass beads in every
color, irideScent beads that reflect, each
tiny one, the beauty of the rainbow,
wooden beads carved and scented, iron
beads. and even rosary beads, the last
coming in sandal and ebony woods.
Our illustration shows one of the many
uses to which they are put bu the decree of
fashion. The bodice is intended for din
ner or other dressy affair and is of black
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

not likely they will find much favor in this
city, or, indeed, in America, since Column
bias daughters do not at any time take
kindly to the Parsienne's very extravagant
modes Even the old fashioned wire-crmping
pin has been granted a'meritorous leave of
absence. and for a season at least its place
will be occupied by the long bone pins.
These innovations are relief, and pleas
ing one, too, since they are very light in
weight and as clear as amber in color. Pom
padours are higher than ever, the rise being
necessary because of the awful; heights to
which the hat of the hour has climbed.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

The tennis clubs rejoice in classic or
poetical Names some few only being
named after beloved ''best player"
There are few with less than eight
members. and the majority have from
fifteen to thirty. and as only four are
needed for a game the courts are in use
from or 10 in the morning until shutdown
The costumes worn by the pretty maidens
who swing the racquets would delight the
heart of Miss Kate Field or some other
dressreformer. They are at once simple
pretty and comfortable, and are roomy
enough for the many springs, turns and
runs necessary in the game. A full skirt
reaches from the waist to the ankles, and
is unfettered by tonures or tight drapery.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16

ignorant reporter of one of the merry play
ers the other afternoon. as she ran out of
the court to get fy-away ball.
"Oh, Love? Why. nothing of course
1t doesn't count you mark and singing
out 'Serve?" she sent the ball flying over
the net into the opposite court, where it
was caught on the bound by another maiden
and sent back.
Over the meadows On every bit of level
are tennis courts marked out in white lime,
and from one to six clubs play in each court
at different stated hours.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-16
A LOVE SET.
Attractions of Tennis Proving lire.
sistible to Maidens Fair.

SfstKDIt To NNUfUtns dIFs
Love-"
sOh, deuce"
These, with many more peculiar terms,
are what one hears every bright afternoon,
coming from the rosy lips of pretty girls
who are deep in the mysteries of tennis.
They are not EXPLANATIONS. of endearment
or naughty words, but simply the way of
counting scores in the game.
What does Love signify?" queried an