Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-12-04
with a diamond butterfly; and magnificent fan
OF white curled, ostrich feathers

4 tDey get enough 10 eat ana II IL WOulO uOt Dc z
charity TO give them one square" meal and thus
supply little roundness to the poor, attenuated
There are handsome plump women, on the con-
| trary, who are joy TO lock at. The rtch edge OF
collar or lace run1e falls back from fair throat
and the glimpse OF perfect neck. The arms are
covered by the gloves which reach nearly to the
l lower edge OF the short sleeves Often rounded
'cap OF thin material, caught up in the center, or
| mere fall OF light, beaded fringe matching the
trimming upon the dress. These toilets seem par
ticularly well suited to the Sem-pubictty OF such
an occasion as the opera; OF course, for those who
occupy conspicuous positions. Orchestra seats do
not demand full dress; in fact, it would be very
| much out OF place. Ladies occupying orchestra
seats wear bonnets, and usually. short calling or
The fans fashionably employed are the "Princess
OF wales, consisting OF group OF five long cured
plume, with a1grette in the center, and the trans
parent 1anS OF gauZe or Grape, hand-painted ana
There are magnificent fans to be seen Of ostrich
feathers, white, black and in natural tints,
mounted In the ordinary way with rich pearl or
tOtOiSeshell sticks, but these now monOpOlize0
by the dearest mammals.
There Is entire absence Of the immense bouquets
OF flowers, which formerly decorated the front OF
every DOx; were held In the hand or dSf1gured the
left front OF the cOrsage. The flowers seen now
are very few In number and form "posy"
bouquets, worn In 'front.' or to the left OF the bod
Ice when it is cut square The change is an i'm
provement, so far as the wearing OF flowers Is con-
cerned, for the enlarged bouquets often really
marred beautiful form, and 1t must be RELIEF 10
some OF the men who were expected to furnish
them.
EVENING DRESSES.
The fabrics for evening dresses especially for
balls and entertainments, at which dancing is ex-
pected-are Of the nghtest, most delicate and fam
ciful description. Frosted tulles, embroidered
grapes, "shadow" silks, embroidered silk muslins
and the like. The crinkled crape-what is known
as English" crape-is used OF late instead OF
crepe de chene; and though 1t has not the soft,
silky quality OF the Chinese fabric it is transpa-
rent; and therefore more effective as drapery over
fC w haf frQ COar on ms
are principally needed for.
The rule does not hold good, however, for debn-
only: producing the lightest, most cloud-like
effects. A dress Of this Kind was seen recently at
Mesiames McNay and Nichols who always have
something to show that is novel and distinctive.
This particular costume was the ideal dress for
young girls first ball. 1t was OF frosted silver
as over skirt upon skirt Of plain tue the
a narrow plating; The dress skirt hung per-
feetly plain, straight and full at the
light drapery over the front. The folds
OF the low bodice crossed to one side and termna-
ted under a sash, with three ends overlapping and
forming panel OF white MORE. On the opposite
side was long, eXquisitely graceful spray OF
white heather blossom forming panel also. This
arrangement of three sash ends at the side, is
quite new, and varies the monOtOny OF the long,
wide sash at the back, besides affOrding pretty
substitute for side trimmings. which presents
difficulties. when the design needs to be at once
simple and effective.
Tinselled limitations OF coins, mother OF pearl
and chenille drops, spots and figures are all part
OF the decoration OF evening tissues, and used
often as straight skirts gathered full at the back
but without any drapery whatever. An evening
bodice which presents some features OF novelty Is
called the Cora. and Is said to have been first
worn by Mrs. James Brown Potter at Sandringham
The dress was combination OF pale, Ophelia satin
with top made full and carried over the Shout
ders OF white ribbed Grape. The sleeves were OF
the brocade reaching nearly to the elbow and tied
over putting OF white Grape. Miss Marie Bur-
rOupLS a similar bodice at the HauthOrS'
matinee" Of Mr. HOwellS "FOregOne Conclusion"
but made OF lace over and above the white satin,
the skirt OF which was covered with lace.
Lace is not, however, always used in straight
line. All the art Of the dressmaker Is employed
ingly simple yet Undesirable folds and forms:
and the one who can utilize antique f1OunceS and
put old fashioned, ruff1ed mantillaS where they
will do the most good finds her hands full Of busi
ness The greatest success OF this kind was exhib
tied at the same time and by the same artists, as
the frosted tulle ball dress. II was arranged out
OF a scarf mantilla with shallow scarf but very
deep fiounce, and orange satin. The result was
marvel To put 1t in words would be to elude its
beauty.
IMPROVEMENT IN CLOTH DRESSES.
There is great improvement in the later designs
Of cloth dresses. They are lighter and warmer.
Every effort Is now made to relieve them Of the
weight which folds, drapery, overlapping and
trimming made intOlerable to delicate women;
and test to the nerves even OF strong ones. The
lighteSt and prettest styles are In small, almost
foundation skirt. The back Is finer and
lifted a little to one side. In simple,
yet graceful fashion: revealing the silken
skirt, which is striped with plush or velvet. The
front is cut in series OF plain panels battle
mented upon the lower edge and united together
with lacing OF cords, knotted upon the ends but
not finished with tassels. The habit bodice has
lacing on each side OF the plated center and is
rounded away from the high vest, striped with the
skirt is finished with band OF brown fur; and
this in narrower width, is repeated upon the
short coat or street jacket which should be lined
with plush for warmth and convenience OF put
ting on over cloth dress, in climates where silk
or satin is not sufficient protection.
SILK and satin lining sounds very much more ey-
travagant than 1t really is or rather than 1t NAV
be. or course, plain silk and satin may be bought
OF high quality and used for lining purposes, but
usually IL Is not. Soft twlled silk silk and cot
ton; satin with only silk face, and Saline so fine
and soft that IL is easily mistaken for thin,
materials that are used for s.silk'' and satin
Innings by the majority. Even plush as a lining
Is less costly than fur and less heating, while
warm enough for all practical purposes even in
cold weather.
NEW DEPARTURE IN FURs.
Furs have quite stepped out Of the old ruts; the
manufacturers having found it necessary to ac-
commodate their wares to the fashion OF the times
or give up altogether. One OF the largest fur
houses in New York, and one OF the Oldest has this
season put designing and manufacturing depart
ment In the hands Of well-known dress designer:
requirements. Fur was never more employed than
now; but IL is as trimming and In combination
with other materials; not In sets or as complete
fur garments.
A long cloak of seal skin or other fur is quickly
found TO be mistake; for there are so few days
upon which II can be worn: while the heat 1t pro-
duces Is 50 much greater than that OF an ordinary
garment, that Il cnange is always attended with
FISK. gentleman who had paid four hundred
dollars Tor long, seal cloak for his wife, after
several years OF repeatedly expressed desire on her
part was unutterably disguised TO ind after a
trial OF one season. that she had had Ii cut down
into a dolInan mantle, which could have been
bought Tor one hundred and fifty.
Seal plush Is a more practical fabric for long
cloak than real seal FUR and is equally handsome
II the plush Is OF the best quality; While the cost
though heavy II 1t Is richly lined and finished is
not half that OF seaSkin
The new fur garments however adapt them
selves 10 varying tastes and fashions. The boa Is
revived, Out Is not so long as formerly, and is
shaped slightly TO the neck; the long hair falling
over, so as To give more graceful effect than thai
| OF the old, round short haired boa
There are small mantleS, with and without
sleeves NANTES that are short upon the back and
stralght Ike Vislte and others that deepen and
form basque Some have fringe OF tails, others
border In different fur, seal with a border OF
beaver OF otter obtaining the preference and con-
| trastlng best with the rich old gold, brown or
strawberry satin lining. The long haired furs
ynx lox, mare and otter are naturally untitled for
WnOie garments, excepting capeS, muffS and bOaS
| but they make beautiful trimmings and are In
| greater demand than any OF the close short furs
such as beaver and otter, the sOftneSS and beauty
OF Which, however, ensure them clientele OF their
own.
| MuffS are very small and the latest touch for
nuns and boas IS the head OF the animal and. for
the boa It's tail also. This is particularly desirable
In The case OF fox lurs, the tail being bushy and
called the adulteration OF rurs Is SO general that
some LADIES establish communication with Denver