Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1886-07-15
OUR NEW YORK LETTER.
RoSAILND MAYS TALK AMOUR
THE Fashions.


4
white moNrninx - stylish Dressss--
Travelling "sIumes Hosiery =
ShIes-JuIY -rtP~.
Special Corresponds cor ,iazette and Journal.
NEW YoGIt JlIy7 - Who would not half
mourn! That Is in tile way II is done
at Saratoga Pretiiest OF all il al cntira
and expensiyely simple costume OF white
english crnpe with corsage bouquet uf
fragrant violets fan to match, bonnet and
parasol, too, il need be. One might de-
cidedly mourn il not thus allowed 70
half mourn, and the desire for some
small tragedy in not too near relations
family, becomes perhaps excusable
Coming next to Grape are light cloths
with crapy surfaces, and these make ex-
treTely pretty dresses, being known
under the tribal name of crepon. Silk
crepon has the look OF seersucker but ia
in checks instead of stripes, and this may
be set down as one of the choicest fabriss
of the season. Clairette is between nuns
yelling and mohair, with something
| OF the effect OF both, sitter than
one, not so stiff as, the other.
and quite thin OF course for summer.
Carmelite and 3vhedietine cloths nre nlso
suggestive of nuns yelling, but there is a
diherenee in them, as some are smooth
laced while others show the Grape tiuish
that Is a feature Uf TO day. Gypsy cloth
has silk warp with urlure weaving. laid
snow-iiake, also with silk warp, resrmblra
basket cloth. Perhaps more attention is
given to these different white mourning
materials because ladies even in deer
DIack make use of them, but they form
such really pretty costumes either in
native purity or united with black or
lavender silk ribbon or velvet, that IL re-
quires no sacrifice to wear them. They
are pure white OF course since creamy
tinge has too much the flavor of q colored
and non mourning world. Some OF the
most
STYLISH DRESSES
are of wool interviewer with tinsel and
curiously draped 10 show the selvage that
does duty as trimming. In silk cos
tunes there is nothing more attractive
than the Bengaline silks striped in two
tones, unless it be the dresses of elhce
silk where the loveliest OF floral patterns
are displayed on a groundwork of such
color as to show them off-pale pink,
ecru, sea green or pale blue. Plain silk
is combined usually and there are fire.
quent additions Of beads or lace. Greatly
delighted in likewise are the so-callod
jeweled dresses which made an appear.
ance in spring but now find room for full
exhibition. Fine black net is bespanpled
with artistic embroideries of beads while
glowing at intervals are colored
stones Stimulating rubies, emeraIds,
sapphires, DC. Thefayorite combination
is velvet and chantilly lace. Moire silk
is in remarkable ascendancy and CON
stantly seen as large component part or
in touches on handsome silk or fine cash
mere dresses. Cashmere indeed comes
quite to the front, and costumes where il
rs united with gay plaided silks are fire.
quently noticeable during the summers
never ending dress prrade. New striped
brocade silks have good position, and
are variously united with Bengaline silk,
MORE, velvet or satin. Frills of black
crepe lisse are favorite trimming on
handsome dresses Of many kinds. They
are effective and sought after because
new. Surah and canvas dresses are well
represented, the two materials combined
in many ways, as for example, the waist
of surah with canvas sleeves, plaid or
striped surah for waist and underskirt,
with boutfant drapery and sleeves OF can
vas. Black surah with touches of white
or some subdued color, is refuge for
mature ladies Of quiet taste but young
people seem TO like this material and
touch it up with gathered white or light
colored silk vests becoming to girlish
figures or they give piquant additions of
bright silk, colored sashes, headings, ,.Hc.,
or perhaps a sash of silk canvas with
fringed ends.
HOSIERY.
Three ont of four pairs of Saratoga
feet are black. But the idea of uni
formity with the costume, takes strong
hold and hosiery TO match, both in light
and dark colors are shown TO an extent
that shows certainly more than one school
of thought. Very delicate white silk are
in beautiful lace patterns and of course
worn with white slippers while in LiBle
thread there are some fancy weavings, but
not many. Solid colors and plain weav-
ings rule, the departures from this being
only for sake of change. This last idea
finds its best exemplification in the Lon
don stripes where soft blendings of green
and olive, brown, blue or gray, are ar
ranged either in vertical or horizontal
stripes or sometimes in broken bars
Ribbed hosiery is varied by thread of
color at intervals and there are
some more pronounced stripes such
as yellow or cardinal and black
10 say nothing of omnipresent ecru.
In shoes, from the beaded and embroid-
ered $12 slippers, are seen gradations
down to something quite nice for a rea-
'enable figure, say $2t. Newport ties
having the strings kept in position by
Jet fastenettes are better for stroll to
he springs, but some people prefer the
hde buttoned boot. As to heels, IL is
NFKf.o ou ala
you will wear them sensibly; il not, not,
md there is full opportunity for Stiffness
"a broad way and a travelled one. As to
hoe dressing, Buttons Raven gloss is
,hiehy used and with reason since besides
,eing the best, 1t is 30 conveniently put
Up for travelling. The mention of
TRAVELLING
eminds one of the front piazza conelaves
Who mark the comings and goings of each
lay. II is their special business and they
re edited by the numbers of pin head
hecked woods they see. Gray or brown
re in great favor contrasting with white
IT ecru, but somewhat liveiier travelling
uits are in blue or brown or dark red and
White. Quite young people are fond of
he plain basque with plaid, checked or
triped skirt Of light wool. Jerseys are
much worn for this style Of out.
il, aud lighter goods often compose
he skirt, snch rs canvas, delainr,
urah or Louisine silk, aud while the
Ways OF making ARE different, kilt plaits
re oftenest noticeable. Kilt f.kirte OF
o day likewise are more com Portable
han formerly, because the plai's are
Iuite wide aud but little turned IN, tlnss
tndering the costume less weighty. Ia
lain wool outfits, a hem Mt the bottom is
but as kilt plaitings begin TO
'e used for more dressy materials such MS
Cashmere or even silks, they are
trimmed with several rows OF ribbon and
peeially for use ON such hkirta comes an
pen, lace worked braid of wool
JULY NOTES.
Short wraps OF plain velvet are more
nd more worn and can be pdded TO by
Independent ornaments of JET or colored
'eads with a finish of beaded lace, while
10th wraps either plain or figured are
lso popular. Some elegant long eloaks
re made of fine cashmere with the in.
colored silk lining tied at the
vaist with ribbon TO match and allowed
o hang open on warm days or ON cool
mes fastened by metal buttons.
glove must be long or it is nothing.
Reaching at least some way up the arm,
nd in color, the precedence of tau is like
hat Of black in hosiery. Gray il good
olor, putty or bronze for kid or silk.