Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1886-11-17
A CULTIVATED NOSE.
What is Necessary in Order to Sc
cure Perfume.

large store down town TO customer,
who admitted that he could not remem-
Der that his hose had ever been SUBJ
jected to any particularly Invigorating
process, but he asserted that he had
perfect confidence in his ability to
pick out just what he wanted.
''That is the trouble with almost
every One," continued the dealer,
''who attempts to select perfume
when not used to it. That man who
. has just left here will not be satisfied
with his purchase the next time he
takes a smell of it because he will not
find it to be what he expected. After
a nose that has not been raised in the
business smells four or five samples OF
cologne, the flavor of each will linger In
the nostrils and then an inferior and
poorer odor, if introduced to these lin
gering scents, IN almost every case will
form pleasing combination that is
thought to be satisfactory. For the
time being 1t will be, but afterward the
compounder of cologne5 will he called
fraud. The sense OF smell is widely
different in individuals, and the imag-
ination helps along wonderfully.
As matter of experiment / have
placed the same kind of cologne In
twelve bottles labeled differently, and
have had people take smell OF all the
bottles and detect the resemblance of
each one to the flower mentioned Oh the
label. Again have seen noses 80 acute
that they would put out from cOmbin
alton of odors each ingredient and
rarely would any be missed. This is a
wonderful thing, but the nose can be
trained to do it, and the cologne maker
must have the faculty in order to make
up any kind Of cologne from 4 given
sample. This explains the method by
which the famous colognes are initiated
and dealer can hardly start new
brand on the market before every one
in the business is making the same
thing.
''The best perfumes are made from
flowers. The effort that Is being
made TO extract perfumes from petrol
cum and other things will prove abor-
tive, as they can never equal the del
icacy of the odor of genuine flower.
The amount of cologne made in
America is enormous, but it does not
approach the quantity manufactured
in Europe, where its use is well nigh
universal. In this country perfumes
are made from the original flowers only
on small scale, and even then 1t IS too
expensive to 60 into general competi-
ton on such basis, The o2ors are
nearly all imported in the shapes OF oils
and essences, and from these as base
the colognes are made. In many for
eign countries whole communities are
supported by cultIvating and gathering
flowers. The cut flowers are usually
placed in large watts. upon which a pro
portionate amount or water IS poured.
After it has stood for certain time the
process of evaporation IS fastened by
heat, and the oil in the flowers passes
into vapor. This is then condensed,
and the oil is found floating on the
water. The oil seems to contain the
aromatic principle Of plants. To make
essences from the oil 1t is usually
mixed with alcohol. Some of the oils
are so volatile that they cannot be
gathered in this manner. They will
iiy off in the process of distlllatiOn
with water, and the delicate suggeS-
tionS of sweetness are lost. To obyi-
ate this heavy or mixed oil is em-
ployed. 1t is usually the finest grade
of beef suet. This by heat is con-
verted into a liquid state, and the
flowers are put into it. The odor OF
the plant will pass into the fixed oil
and be held a prisoner. Some alco-
hol IS also used in this method, and
it is in the shape of beef suet paste
laden with the fragrance of many
beautiful flowers that much of our per-
fume is imported.
1.-THE famous altar OF roses is made
from the Rosa DamaScena, which
grows like a weed in Smyrna and in
some parts of Turkey and France
though the growth is comparatively
small in the latter country. The ma
tives of these places collect this oil In a
simple manner. The roses are placed
in water, and after decomposition sets
in the oil floats on the surface and it IS
absorbed BY cotton balls deftly dipped
INTO the liquid. The cotton under
pressure gives up this oil, which is bot
tied and sealed. a bushel of flowers
will produce only few drops of oil.
The genuine Is the most expensive oil
in the market, and worth S32 an
ounce. 1t is adulterated with oil OF
rhodium, wav and other substances, and
the price is arranged to suit the pur-
chaser. The strength of this oil makes
it sickening in its natural state. The
adulteration has reached such high
state of perfection that even the most
expert are deceived By it.
"Patchouli is made from a natural
plant growing in great abundance IN
the Malay islands, and is a great favor
ite as perfume. There is a growing
demand now for lavender water. 1t Is
made by mixing rose and orange waters
with the oil of lavender, and has re-
fined and pleasant as well as refreshing
odor. The English oil of lavender Is
the best that is on the market, and be-
sides being used as perfume Is IA
yo,ite article in bakeries as a flavor for
cakes and fancy products. 1t is high
stimulant and efficient aid to digestion
until the system becomes used to 1t,
and then 1t is liable TO breed one OF the
worst forms of dyspepsia, The laven-
der shrub and the jessamine plant are
cultivated to large extent In England
and France for this industry. The
genuine heliotrope is not as fine an odoI
as the imitation. The latter Is known
as the white heliotrope and Is made
from a combination of violet and van,
lila. and has a soporific tendency II
breathed for any length of time. Ber-
gamut, which with musk forms the
staple perfume of the colored popula-
tion, is a comparatively cheap oil. II
is made from small species of emon,
the best quality of which grows in the
island of Sicily, and is cultivated speci-
ally for this purpose. The fruit l;
picked while hard and unripe, and 1t
takes about 400 to produce pint OF OF
under pressure. Bergamot IS g slight
, irritant, and it is said will raisshair OF
a bald head. The Distinguishing MARI
OF the tube rose it strength, while The
, violet Is light and pure. The yerDeni
was once great favorite, but Is no"
rarely called for. The rose geraniuu
makes an elegant p,rfume and is nearl!
as good as the altar of roses. The
, lily of the valley produces one of TIT
-orr,,,ac apd tho ipmOn OranD,