Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1886-04-17
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
THE LATEST DETERMINATIONS IN
REGARD TO APPAREL.
Making-The COlors-Out-
door Garments-Etc.

Making-Ihe COlOrS-Out-
F; door Garments-Etc.
Correspondence of the RECORD UNIoNI
New YORK, April u, 1886.
| An old-time cutting up is exchanged for
modern mixture. Some years ago ma
terial was carved sedulously into small
pieces, that they might again be sewed to-
gether. This form of industry has disap-
peared, but in place of it, in many new
fabrics, cotton, wool and silk are so inter
woven that one knows not which is which
nor what is what. The three are combined
in all manner. of ways-in parallel stripes.
in figures of one upon another, etc.-while
intruding everywhere comes canvas, now
in small peepings, now forming the body
of the fabric, and in all intermediate gra-
dations-not as hitherto, confined to cotton,
but also in silk and wool. New wool eta
mines (canvas) show polka dots, Others
have Chinese figures, and very peculiar and
stiff canvas woods are of dark color be-
strewn at regular intervals by outstanding
| white hairs. Equally novel, though not so
!
| also a mixture where one stripe of large
diagonal in wool alternates with soft faille
| silk, or where frise silk contrasts with a
similar wool stripe. Pretty wool canvas
| cloth is painted in delicate vine designs,
| cunningly portrayed twigs or flowers. and
cotton grapes are stamped in japanese ideas
such as. fans, trellis work, branches, sum-
mer-houses, etc. The stylish summer silks
woven in
MoNGoLIAN FASHION
| Have been mentioned as predominant, and
on the same order but too striking to be
adopted except cautiously, are China silks,
where very large open wheels or huge cir
Giles are set interlacing or overlapping, one
color showing up through the other with
| singular effect the more so as the combin-
| ings contrast such hues as olive, brown and
red brown, yellow and black; green, yell
! low and red, etc; the general result being
decidedly tigerish. Through all mutations,
however, fine, soft cashmere, holds position
and is in large demand. Cancels hair like
wise, but this latter is sometimes rendered
novel by very thick, soft wool threads set
| in very long stitches and quite apart from
each other, but forming embroidered pat
terms or again there are camels hair goods
woven IN patterns or borders that display
Indian blanket effects, while as another
variety come those showing resemblance
of Indian embroideries, and also rude,
irregular forms, such as might characterize
standardization, but are pleasing because
they give change from our usual refined
| finish. Lace can be reckoned among sum-
mer materials, so extensively will it appear
as the greater part of dressy costumes, the
more SO as colored silk often shows under
meath, both giving support and serving to
BRING OUT ATTRACTIVE SPANISH
And other patterns. Grape, both white and
colored, will be in high favor, and for light
mourning there is especial style in white
Grape costume with bunch of violets.
Dress goods colors are always important,
not only in themselves but as giving the
key note in all other departments. Thus
! while light colorS are more fashionable in
millinery than they have been for long
while, yet the hat or bonnet will constantly
match the dress hosiery, etc. the same.
ION the list as stylish come blue green,
bronze, brown, slate drab, tan, plum, wine
and garnet. There are from three shades
upwards in all but plum, while less freely
used, because more conspicuous, yet also
in different shades, are yellow, red, orange,
| gold pink, with a modcum of magenta
and lilac. Thus we have variety enough,
and among dressmakers Clark's Mile
End cotton is in special demand, because
dyed carefully to suit every new shade.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS
| Speak different languages to suit different
wearers. Expressive jauntiness, as in case
of the tan or red CLOTH figured and colored
velvet, braided or rough cloth jackets
| greater dignity where the immensely popu-
lar short wraps appear, devised in brocade,
in suit goods or for summer, in grenadine
or lace with colored silk lining. Long
| redingoteS give that seriousness of aspect
| VII iRh ba oh no al.
especially if displaying stripes or checks.
| Elderly ladies are usually enveloped in
long cloaks and these are capable of much
variation from sober cloth to handsome
lace ones lined with colored silk the last
| being too attractive not to find favor in the
eyes of the younger people, gradations be-
| ing brought about by degrees as to bright
ness. of hue. Scarf mantilias are talked of,
and among the prettiest spring wraps,
suited chiefly to the young, are mantillas
with long ends crossed in front and
fastened over the tournure, with stout
hook-and-eye. Lace trimming, mostly
guipure, is liked for these graceful gar
ments, akin to which are wraps reaching
| but little below the waist at the back, but
with long ends hanging straight
the latter quite suitable for middle-aged
and elderly people. Circular wraps, for
carriage wear at watering-places, are of
|
wraps have bright Innings.
sLAsHING VERSUS CUTTING.
Material isnot cut into bits which are sewn
together again. but the dressmaker delights
| to slash that she may lace up. This lacing
up is quite feature; not few costumes
are laced down the front to the exclu-
| siou of buttons; the two are sometimes
| united; sleeves are slashed that they may
| be laced, and skirts are slashed and laced
| ad libitum. Nightly convenient some
| times especially for the doing over of Sec
ond-hand material, since two or more
pieces can thus be made one and in orna-
mental fashion as well, while upon new
| goode these lacings are often so pretty as to
| atone for recklessness of cut. Another
very convenient and pretty fashion is that
| of waists different from skirts. A dark
| waist gives a look of slenderness, which
will allow plump person 70 wear a light
| skirt, and per contra thin waist is no
little relief with dark serviceable skirt. /
scarce need say that jerseys are valued
| and variously ornamental institution, and
| jersey cloth is now used along with non
elastic goods, new style waists having ier-
sey cloth sleeves with bodice portion of
something quite different, but, of course,
matching in color.
APRIL NOTES.
very Jaunty SILK dresses OF dark color are
made with red jersey cloth Jokes. Hooks
and eyes are coming up again as waist fast
eners, but at present are mostly used with
plated fronts and so arranged as to be
overlapped by folds. An effort is being
made to introduce the high tuck comb with
Spanish mantilla and fan. Jet beads as
large as crab-apples are seen. and among
other new jet devices are acorns, fir cones.
heads of barley. rye, etc., sometimes mixed
in chenille TRAININGS; novel beads are
also of smoked pearl. Round hats have
long black lace scarf at the back which is
brought round and passed under the
throat; and beaded bonnets with open
work wire frame are worn without Enii1cs