The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1886-08-13


promenade during the afternoon and
evening. 1t is broad, well-built
quay, looking toward the open sea |;
the island on which stands the stately
church Of the San Giorgio Maggiore is
opposite the lagoon in front of 1t
leads into the Grand Canal, the quay
itself leads to st. Marks square. En-
tering this square one first thinks Of
paying respect to the the lion of st.
Marks church, but one is puzzled to
remember which is the lion, seeing
there is quite menagerie of gilt,
bronze, stone and mosaic lions in the
city. The venerable beast, however,
stands upon a column on the water side
of the square; he is of black bronze,
rampant and ugly. The patron saint
occupies the companion column. On
the right is the Doge's Palace, a beau
tiful structure with Gothic sides and
portals, Moorish verandas and italian
exterior of contrasting marbles laid in
patterns. The interior is rich in mosaic
floors, gilt and frescoed ceilings, paint
ings by the Venetian masters and fine
ly executed busts Of the Doges. OF
the paintings, the brilliantly colored
works of Paul Veronese pleased me
most. Titian's Last Judgment, the
largest oil painting in the world, i'm
pressed me only as very much crowd
ell canvas with too many black shad.
ows, although Ruskin pronounces it
beautiful.
From the Doge's Palace one obtains
admission to the famous Bridge of
Signs, which connects the building
with the prison on the other side of the
intervening little canal. The bridge
is closed at the top and has only two
small grated openings that let in a
glimmer of light. It has two passage
ways, one for common criminals and
the other for political offenders. The
latter. 1 believe, is no longer used.
The way slopes down gradually to the
underground dungeons, where polit-
ical prisoners were formerly kept in
solitary confinement. Not a ray of
light enters these holes, which are
roomy enough for one and, fortunately,
do not seem damp. for the unhappy &C.
cupant had to sleep-if he cOuld-and
sit on the bare floor, for there was
nothing whatever in the cells. The
guide showed US the place where these
prisoners found final release. A mar.
now space between two walls with
grooves, down which ran the behead-
ing knife. Near by, in the outer wall,
was door opening upon the canal, that
told no tales. 1t all seemed quite bad
enough, although Mr.. Howell does call
the bridge and the dungeons pathetic
swindle. The upstairs cells are still
used for criminals.
The chief architectural attraction is
of course st. Marks church, an odd,
lOw-brOwed structure, with three gor-
geOus portals adorned with richly
sculptured columns of many hued mar
bles, surmOunted by pointed arches
with brilliant mosaic pictures
on golden back ground. Over the mid
die entrance praace the four bronze
horses above them, against a blue
field, stands the gilded lion, and over
all preside numerous marble saints.
Time has dimmed the pictures and bad
" stained the marbles, but the process
Of cleansing and retouching is going |
Oh and the appearance of one clean
corner might well justify the delirious
description of the church written by |
Mr.. Ruskin. The inside, very dimly |
lighted, is covered with gilt and mosa-
&c pictures, many of which are almost
yrotesque; the mosaic pavement is in
very bad condition, so full of holes and
Expressions that one fears the Adriatic
nay have the floor ere long. High mass
lad begun as We entered, the jubilant
'trains of music from organ, trumpets
md choir were inspiring; but the bow
ng, kneeling, crossing, mumbling and
'romenading Of the priests seemed like
'hild's play or mocke-y; yet the audi
nee appeared attentive and devout.
For one thing outsiders cannot he too
'rateful to the Catholics, and that is for
he tolerance that permits strangers to
Walk about their churches in staring
Wonder even while services are going
n. At noon one must visit the cam
anile, or bell tower, situated at one
orner Of the square opposite the
hurch, for the sake of being deafened
y the changing bells. and delighted
y the glorious view Of city, sea and
stands. In the distance is the main
md, and between a marshy stretch ,
panned by costly bridge over which i
he traveller Is comfortably conveved 7