Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-05-02
EUROPEAN LETTER.
MILDRED BUSHELS NOTES sreHr-
SEEING TOUR IN MILAN.
The Journey from Florence-Historio
Towns Leonardo de- vinei's Great
Picture Cathedrals, SC.


tsrec,si correspondcnce OF The Dispatch.
STUTTGART. April, 1886.
We left Florence on . damp, rainy
morning, so that our journey through
and across the Appenines to Pistoja and
Bologna did not permit US to see the
country 10 the best advantage, and as
we went on the duIness OF the day in
creased. However, many Of tho ra-
vines and smaller valleys Afforded US
lovely peeps OF scenery and Of distant
villages on the mountain-sides. Half On
hour after leaving Pistols we crossed
the watershed Of the Adriatic aud
TyrrheDisn seas, an event we soon dis
covered, as the brooks ran in the oppo-
site direction. Then we reached the
highest point Of the railway, 1924
feet above the level OF the sea,
and in an hour were at Bologna,
to which the STRENGTHENING camps-
nile and the odd-looking towers Of the
many churches gave Characteristic
appearance. After we left Bologna the
aspect Of the country changed COM
4 p,etely, for we had entered on the great
Lcmbardy plain, though not as yet into
Jombardy proper. Miles and miles Of
well-culiivated fat land, in many places
\ laid out m squares or oblong patches,
surrounded by narrow runlets edged
with trees. A wide range Of crops
is said to be grown on them, but
being winter wc saw only grass, vines,
and various kinds of trees. The heaviest
sky weighed down over everything like
q pail, and our sight OF this part Of Italy
strongly resembled the English fens,
except for the forest-like thickness of
the numerous trees around the divisions
Of the land. The temperature was not
low, but the air had that sbiyery feeling
peculiar to Italy when the sun does not
shine.
HISTORIC TOWNS.
We passed through the historic
towns Of Modens, Parma, and Pa
cenza, all truly Italian, and with grace
ful campaniles and domes, and castles
that once were threatening. Parma
was decidedly the most beautiful, and,
even under the grimmest of skies, stood
out as a true daughter Of the South.
On our arriving in Milan we could not
fail to remark one difference between
the people Of that town and the south
ern Italians. Perhaps it was owing to
{ its being miserable weather, but at any
rate there was very little lounging about
the streets in Milan in the enjoyable,
easy way that is frequent in Florence
and the Riviera towns. The Milanese
are, as a rule, well off, owing to the
situation of their city, in the centre of
Ia fertile district, and are less dependent
fon outside influences than most others
lin Italy.
They can not only boast Of the largest
opera-house, but also Of producing the
best operas and ballots. We saw the
new ballet " A nor" the second night
5of its represer alton. 1t began at 9;45
and lasted til o'clock, though the
.time did not seem nearly as long, on
Saccount Of the interest being well kept
np till the end. The idea was very
!pTettily conceived and carried out. In
8 series of tableaux and professions
r. Love " was shown to be the ruler Of
nOrtals and their guide to all that is
great and especially patriotic.
PERFECTION or DANCING.
q The dancing was the perfection OF
The Italian ease and gracefulness, both
IN the men and women, and the harIno-
nious colOring Of the dresses and deco
rations made us confess that most bal
lets we had hitherto seen had been ex
cruciatingly glazing. The essentially
patriotic sentiment Of the ballet was
expressed by skilfully weaving in incl
dents relating to old and new Rome,
the destruction Of Milan by the Ger
mans, its rebuilding, and its struggles
/ in later times. This ballet is consider
\ ed the most elaborate yet composed,
bud in it eight hundred persons ap-
pear on the stage, besides an Gle
.rhant, horses, and bands of music.
'1mmense enthusiasm was displayed
d. the audience, and Manzotti, the COM
poser, was called out several times du-
ting the evening.
y One morning we went to see Leo
naTdo da Vinci's painting of the Last
Supper. 1t was much less eilaced and
dim than expected to see it, though
must own it is much damaged, and
many pieces Of it have peeled off. We
bad a good deal Of curiosity beforehand
las to what we should think of this
smuch.talked-o battered picture when
we saw II. We entered the empty,
high, barn-like room, about 60 feet long
DIV 90 wide, and on one end of it we
saw the picture. No wonder people
rave over its depth and power.
The Christ is in the middle
Of the long table and faces the specta-
Tor, and is g representative or embodi- |
ment of the majesty Of humanity that
has lived face to face with the Divine |
end yerges on it. Yet it is all human
human in its vast sympathy, and sor-
row, and suffering, and bitter regret for
the evil that others will insist on doing
Judas has risen from the table, aud,
With his face close TO that Of Christ, is
ssking his question eagerly and anx-
icusly, as if to find out if he were
Alfeady detected. The contrast of his
isco of low cunning and greed with that
cf the Christ is sickening.
VARIOUS EMOTIONS.
The other disciples express various
dtgrees Of establishment and horror at
The idea Of traitor being among them.
So. John, quite young man, is almost
fainting with emotion, while st. Peters
Indignation is intense. | suppose it is
both the most sublime and the most
tragic picture that ever was painted,
and comes nearer to one Of the great
aeted tragedies than any other by res-
obn Of its dramatic strength. This pic
lo,e has been painted over and touched
~ and cleaned, so that it is but faint
Bbadow Of what it was originally.
sill il has the nameless power
Inherent in true greatness that never
l(aves what it has once ennobled. We
Vent to the Brera Gallery and saw the
of some Of Leonardo's pupils,
chief among whom was Bernardino
Luini. A Holy Family by Luini is one