The Iola register., 1886-10-29
STYLES FOR GENTLEMEN.


tho Morning and Business Suits.
Gentlemen who wish to be stylish may
be interested to know that the full
dress toilet this winter consists of the
regulation dress coat, medium in length
and cut to roll rather low in front. The
Innings should be of silk, with silk fac
ings, to show on the breast as far as the
line of the lapel, but not beyond it.
The waistcoat must be of the same ma
terial, to roll low in front and fasten
with four buttons. The pantaloOils
should be cut medium in size and to
drop neatly over the instep, with but
little spring at the foot. The materia!
for this suit should be of fine black vale
worsted. or English broadcloth, the
latter being preferred. as the wOrsteds
soon take on a glossy effect, giving =
soiled and worn appearance, which has
caused them to be regarded with dis
favor. When worsteds are used. how
ever, the entire suit should be of the
same material. When the broadclOth
is used the pantaloons should be of
doeskin, as brOadclOth is not, as a rule,
suitable for trousers. White broad
cloth and white English marseilles, both
plain and embroidered, will be quite
am taiI for change of waistcoats. to oe
used with full dress toilet, and are both
select and desirable.
Semi-dress toilet is secured in the
various styles of singlc-breas:ed cut,-
way coats made of sultings in dark rich
tints and coloringS. both figured and
plain. The suit should be of one material
when there is any particular figure or
pattern to the fabric. When the material
is of plain, solid tint it will be very
stylish and edgy to have the waistcoat
of an English or French cashmere waist
coating. with pantaloons of an English
cashmere, the suit to be of three dis
tinct and separate fabrics. For general
office and business uses suits entire to
be used. This class of suits should be
made in the various styles of cutaways,
both with and without flaps at the
hips as desired; also in several styles of
sacque suits. The newer and more dressy
style of sacque suit will be the Roo
Roy, three-buttonedc cutaway. Thisi is
decidedly the most popular of all sacluc
styles for dressy gentlemen. The
pantalOons should be cut easy and to
fall nearly straight in the leg and over
the instep. with the outer seam welted
to match the edges of the coat.
Both the single and double-breasted
overcoat VIII be in vogue. They will
be cut rather short and not too shapely.
Overgarments, cut in
sacque form and quite ample in length.
are held in high esteem as a garment
par excellence for severely cold weather,
and are considered an almost indispen-
sible requisite to complete gentleman's
wardrobe for the winter in this and
more northern latitudes. Noticeably
elegant among this class is the Glad
stone wrap. a double-breasted, heavy
long sacque, with rich fur
collar and cuffs, fastened in front with
FIVE heavy frogs and loops. and when
properly made and of appropriate ma
terial is a garment suitable for many
years of service. Fabrics in vogue for
winter overgarments are of soft-faccd
fine merino or Vienna wool, Elysian or
fur beavers. which, together with the
Scotch Elysian, constitute the family of
soft-faced fabrics. For the smoother
fabrics, which will also lie largely worn.
there are the West of England cloth
faced beavers, English meltOns. wide |
and mixed Venet ans. giving |
. wide range from which to make selec- |
tons.
The silk hat should be used with all
coats cut across the waist, and when |
Dvercoats are worn, unless it be in |
severe or stormy weather. as the derby |
nat. or soft head gear, is for undress or
business toilet exclusively. For dress |
use the Congress buttoned shoe and tine |
Oxford tie are the correct styles. They |
are made of English morocco or French |
patent leather. and should have thin
,oles with beveled edges. With the Ok
ord tie stockings Of black silk with
ancy colOred points or clocking at the
tide are considered very dressy and
stylish. For dress use the linen collar
should be standing. with small V
shape opening in front. If the neck be
Iery short the Henri Irving, which is a
'ather narrow standing collar at the
pack and well turned down at the front,
5 correct. A narrow white tie with q
'ow tive-eighths to an inch in width and
white kid gloves should accompany =
lress suit. Neck dressing for all busi-
less and semi-dress use is of silk, N
'ich, bright t.nts and mixtures. Chicago
Herald.