Evening star., 1886-09-18
FANCIEs OF THE HOUR.

FANCIEs OF THE HOUR.
SOME OF THE LATEST CoNcEIrs IN LADIES
ADoRSMENT-BIgDs FRUITS AND vEGErA-
BLEs AS oRNAMENTs-THE RAGE FOR TAILOR
MADE SUITS.
VIOLET WOOD FANS are the fall fancy,
| Two-PIECE FABRIC FRocKs are the rule this
| fall.
SLEEVES are no longer cut tight above the
| elbow.
VESTS OF SURAH will be worn with winter
| costumes of cloth.
| stamped leather.
PLAID vELvETs are coming in vogue, but
| they are not pretty.
TURNOVER COLLARS are q new feature in
mantles and costumes.
BIG AND LITTLE BUTTONS are both worn on
the same suit or garment.
FRUIT and vegetables are in the ascendant
for bonnet and hat trimmings.
JACKETS of brown or navy blue boucle cloth
are the favorites for cool days.
DIAGONAL DRAPING across the front of the
bodice is seen on new Paris dresses.
CHECKS are still worn and are generally
arranged over plain skirts of the color OF one OF
the checks.
The NEWEST GOODS for tailor-made gowns
erings and coatingS.
SOME OF THE NEW plush broche bordered
woolen stuffs are as rich and dressy as well as
costly as silk velvet broche.
ONE-PIECE DRESSES of wool and of silk are
both worn and preferred by many ladies of un.
questioned taste and fashion.
NEW CAMEL'S HAIR CLOTHS new cheyiots
and suitings are seen in herring bone and chey.
ron weaves to form the vertical stripes.
THE PRESENT TENDENCY OF FASHION is
toward the medieval and antique, the manche
juive. stomacher and peplum being the signs OF
the coming styles
THE CRAZE FOR LACE is OH the increase. and
Is creating genuine revival of old points
Flemish, AlencOn, Bruges, and English along
with Venetian ard old Florentine point coupe
THE PLUSH STRIPES on new woolen novelty
fabrics are made to produce shaded, block, bar,
| flower, and leaf effects by the cut and uncut
pile creating what the merchants call "frize
| effects"
FICHUs will be much>worn. They are made
of squares of lawn, embroidered and of dotted
net, edged with lace. The latter are very long,
are crossed over the bust and tied at the left
side Of the waist.
ALAS FOR THE POOR BIRDS! The importers
stocks show every variety of feathered creature,
from the prosaic barnyard fowl to the glorious
pheasant and bird of paradise. The assortment
OF birds claws, too, is appalling.
THE Most LADYL1KE BoNNETs now worn
velvet brim and loops ofSelvet ribbon. These
are always appropriate and serviceabe, and
look consistent with any style of dress adopted.
y FASHION WRITER, in letter from over the
sea, says that white dresses will be worn
throughout the autumn over slips Of batiste
and poppy-red Sicilienne. White yelling and
aibatrOsS Will be worn under Russian Jackets
and opera coats OF velvet.
FEATURES IN FALL FASHIONS are waistcoats
tfof various kinds, long over draperes, long
waists, short shoulder seams, sleeves loose
above the elbows. full skirts, side panels, little
or no looping to skirt drapcries. many buttons,
nigh tapering hat crowns, high coiffures, and
very high dress collars.
AUTUMN TOILETS are most varied in style
and fashion; skirts, tunics and bodiccs are made
of every shape and cut. Skirts are as much
worn gathered as pleated. plain draped;
jacket bodices are quite as fashionable AS those
with single or double points, or gathered or
pleated on to a round waiStband.
LINEN COLLARS AND CHEMIsETrES will be
worn with tailor-made costumes. This style is
only suitable for youthful persons. There is
nothing more incongruous than to sec n woman
far along the road to sixty, with wrinkles
galore, attired in tailor-made gown with q
''shirt front" and jaunty necktie.
BUTTONS will be Appointment item in the sea-
sons dress and cloak trimmings. They are
shown in various metal and mixed styles. OXi-
died buttons are fairly popular. Bronze metal
effects are par. .icuiarly good There are butt ons
with pearl ornaments Sci over metal also new
round ball rosary buttons In general sizes.
AMONG the novelties shown is suit with q
skirt of bronze faille having stripes in fancy
plush, showing cardinal, white, green and u
dash of gold Over this is worn a drapery and
basque of the new embossed Jersey cloth that
looks like rich brOcade. The cloth is cream
white and has a Moliere vest, collar, cuffs and
facings OF taille Francaise in bronze.
MANTLES for autumn wear show no marked
changes in general design from those worn in
| There t,dp in ha
matter OF fronts; they may be long or short
pointed, round or square. according to the
fancy OF the wearer. Generally the backs are
longer and narrower than those OF the spring
manles. Jackets will be worn with tailor
made costumes.
PLAIN VELVET will be in great use for this
and the winter season. It will not only share a
prominent part in millinery, wraps and cos
tunes, but will obtain prime importance in
robes Of ceremony, forming d distinguishing
component in the superb gowns now az
fected, and besides its use for reception even
ening and dinner toilets will also constitute an
important feature i'll costly wedding dresses.
GAUZE with velvet stripes will be in great
use for fancy evening toilets the coming season.
Much tinsel is introduced into textiles of thi $
class, but never with advantage, as there is in-
variably merctrlciOus and lawdry look to
even the best qualities. MOire ribbon and
dress materials with marrow raised stripes of
zephyr velvet or plush are among goods
which are now largely used by Paris milliners.
AMONG CORD URoY FABRICS are novel pat
terms in silk and wool, which have proved very
popular abroad. One imported gown, made at
a weSt-end house in London, has a petticOat of
heiiotrope corduroy, with u stripe OF plush and
satin in pale lilac Above this is a tunic of
plain heliotrope plush. Another, in dark
Princess OF Wales blue corduroy, is striped
with gOlden-brOwn velvet, with jLcket above
OF PLAIN blue velvet opening over Il waistcoat
OF goiden-brOwn satin worked with dark blue
beads.
WooLENs 1or autumn wear have hair-like
stripes and checks. They will be used for
taior-made costumes without other accessories.
although velvet trimmings will remain in as
high iavor as during the past season. The fab
rics are exceedingly soft and are of light
weight. Navy blue, dark green, black, gray
and dark red have white stripes, while red
stripes on navy blue grounds, black stripes on
gray grounds and brown grounds with Stripes
OF lighter tin. are also seen.
ONE OF THE FASHIONABLE CoRsAGEs. which
is likely to prove very popular in evening dress
is made oi black silk velvet opening broadly
half the length of the front over chemisette
russo OF richest white lace. There are merely
wide straps OF black velvet which go over the
shoulders, with y dainty TALL OF white lace
beneath it simply to veil the top OF the arm,
The back is cut down slightly in d square or v
shape, ana ends in q very short full "bird's
tail' po>tilion, with Il fan of lace set between
the two pleatS. This cOrsage can be worn over
skirts Ofany rich description.
AS MANY WOMEN WEAR their hair dressed
I'll, ii,