Roseburg review. [volume] (Roseburg, Or.) 1885-1920, 1886-04-09
ror 81 cuT 8 sEss..
Aunt Mary's Directions 90 an Amateur
Dressrnakef.


DressfnalkeF.
ITO begin WITH" said Aunt Mary,
taking the front piece Of the paper pat.
tern and folding It over carefully ct the
waist line. "seiect a thread that runs
from seivedge to selvedge and place this
crease I have made at the waist line
upon it; When yon are Sure the waist
line Of your pattern b perfectly even
With the grain Of the cloth, smooth out
the pattern top and bottom and after
securing it firmly 70 fhe cloth Of the
waist line PIN 1t firmly to the cloth and
cut Il out. Do not mind IL the pattern
slopes q little on the front from the
bust to Che neck; Gle waste oi material
will be very slight. See that your
waist tine & straight then go ahead;
and would atlvise E6n to cut one piece
at time until yon have more expert
encA
IRON the secont1 BIAS TO tile first
seam the waist line slows o slight up
ward tendency" said Aunt Mary; ssper-
haps you have hot noticed Chat your own
waist shows this te1Qehcy as ron ap-
proafh the hips; but as the Hne from the
hem 20 the FIRST bias aid a5m the first
TO Che SECOND bias is stfDight on the
cloth, that part from the Second bins to
tue first seam must be straight. as it is
p6t Q separate piece.
aYou sen notch md mark carefully
Just rs I an instructed to do BY my pat
teyE ana mrb9 from notch 10 notch on
the waist line run q thread for fear of
losing sight of this very important
line,f
seAnnt Mary proceeded to cut piece af-
ter piece In this same careful manner.
When all was ready. She said: "Now.
Sally. there Is great deal to learn about
hastang waist. You can not baste it
any way. By that mean you can not
properly begin TO basoe every seam at
the top or bottom of the waist. There
are q few rules which, if followed, viii
surely insure good seams, and conse-
quenGy well-fitting dresses
'Here we have the front and back of
tho waist. By that I mean the right
end fhe wrong side q the calico. So
hereafter 10 Speaking m the front you
viii know mean the right side, and in
speaking Of the habB YHn viii know I
mean the wrong side Of the calico. The
biasses are the ffst 90 be basted. Sc
cure them by pinning che waist line,
then evenly up and doNp SO that they
win not slip when you baste them; then
with the front toward you haste finely.
remembering that The finer the
when stitched. The neSf two
seams pin and baste With the front to-
ward you. remembering 70 sbtnre OF the
waist-fine ffrst and be very care
full not to stretch the Cloth. The next
seam ron win secure as usual nt the
waist Gne. then pin ap6ft 6A Inch above
that afd hlm mefe toward Che bottom
of the waisk with Che front toward you.
Now turn &c 50 int Che bsEk win be to-
ward you, end pm from 1Abote the waist
line toward tie tol. BaAR in the same
The rounding iif i. piacs is thats s s. s. the curve
ca caafaS sas Kefa & p {BB@sra B 3 yes' yeG
and 81 6asting npm that6p b the bot
tom De very carsf6 n6t 10 draw It il
easily INTO @s. curved back The back
are sioped o little es the waist line is ap
proached and you wiIl haye no difficult.
IN getting them. even If you secure then
, at the waist lua first. Nov the shoul
der-seams look IS though they intended
to trouble us. The backs seem too wild,
for the fronts But SEE here; you pin
the ends firmly The back still look
tm tDp; give q gentle pull; not tot
much, but Just enough eo show you i
, win fall in place easily, and pin AMI
basie as yop have seen me pin and bastt
every seam
/, Nov we viii examine it," said Aun
. Mary. as she spread the waist out on tn
lap-board, and called my attention Il
the thread which ran m continuou
, line around the waist.-Good Housekeep
inn