Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1886-09-03
FOR AMATEUR DRESSMAkERS
Fashion Hints Which Can BE Observed
without Difficulty.

Fashion Hints Which Can BE Observed
without Difficulty.
The amateur dressmaker who OBJ
serves new basques closely will see that
the darts are now carried up very high,
in the English fashion, and are nearer
together at the waist line, giving, with
the narrow double side forms. the slen-
der and long-waisted appearance which
has come into vogue with English fash
ions. The high officers collar band
with its buckram interlining is also
conducive to the severe military effect
now sought after, as it keeps the chin
up. and requires plain linen collar, or
else folds. in preference to frills, with
very simple brooch, to complete its de-
srab!e plain style. The shoulder seams
are of medium length, and the sleeves
are set IN easy" as seamstresses say,
being sewed always with the sleeves
next the sewer, yet without the gathers
that made them high and bunchy last
year. A large arm-hole with we'll
rounded sleeve, with its inner seam set
straight down the middle of the arm its
entire length, will have the proper and
comfortable fit. In skirts all tied back
appearance is avoided, and the covering
over the hips is not nearly so smooth
as formerly; there are still, however,
tapes at the back and steels as described
last week, but these are only meant to
hold the foundation skirt in place, while
the lower skirt and its draperies are
made to look very full. Worth begins
to lengthen basques on the sides in
peplum fashion, though the preference
here is for very short sides to basques.
pretty fashion with Worth is that of
making a plated faille guimpe inside
the front of velvet or plush basques
with the top part of the velvet waist
turned down in revers, and the plated
faille guimpe inside the front extending
from the collar to the top of the darts
under the revers; pendent beads, ball,
or tiny Jassels are set on the plats.
The home dress-maker who attempts
to make outside garments is advised to
have a short mantle. because it is most
easily made, and 10 use the thick cloths,
either rough Astrakhans or the smooth
cloths that have tufted wrong side be-
cause these need not be lined. If a
wadded silk lining is preferred, it is
economical to buy the lining already
wa ded and quilted and then use the
thinner camel s-hair cloth that may be
had for two dollars or three dollars a
yard. The fine thick cloths that need
no lining cost five dollars yard but
only yard and half are required for
the mahtle. For jackets, the sleeves
should be lined with satin. to make them
easy to get off or on. The seams OF
cloth garments should be trimmed
evenly, moistened with damp cloth,
and pressed open with a hot iron. The
edges should then be bound neatly with
silk tape. The trimming should not be
bought until the mantle is made and its
edges measured, as such trimmings,
whether of fur, feathers or fringe. are
costly, and it is wasteful to buy even
an eighth of yard more than is want
ed. Brocaded velvet mantles were sc
commonly used last year that there is
preference now for those of plain vel.
vet or plush. and striped mantles are
among the novelties. The newest man
ties have no plaits at the back, but la
dies wac wear large tournures, and
those who are very stout, require full
ness there. There is an effort to revive
dolman wing-like sides on visites, OF
flowing sleeves, instead of the square
closer sleeves used last year. Reppec
silk with e .tremely large cords and th'
close-pile mole-skin pushes are in favol
j for both visites and scarf mantles
trimmed with fluffy fringes or will
those that have wooden balls, nut
shaped pieces, or long spikes on eaci
strand. For the plain NANTES o
: boucle cloth. cord fringe or else bant
of fur. such as the inexpensive Russian
hare, is the trimming. -Harper's Ba
] gar,