Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-02-13

correspondence OF THE EVENING STAR.
CITY OF MEXICO, Feb. LIST.
Travel In Mexico, as elsewhere, is at once q
revelation and establishment. Plunging
into the valley Of Mexico, with its innumerable
historic and romantic associations, from the
heights OF Barrios, we expected to traverse wide
avenues of palms, through vast and populous
suburbs, studded here and there with Aztec
monuments and thronging with q population
half Indian, half Spanish. Two things we had
always associated with the City of Mexico,
disappointment then to find ourselves actually
sh1vering In our Overcoats as we chung to the
ice-coid ironwcrk of the car platlprm. in fruit
less attempts to catch distant view of the
Halls OF Montezuma. Truly, the city is in the
torrid zone, far south of Florida and Havana,
feet above the sea, more than counteracts the
effects of its location south Of the Tropic Of
Cancer. The variety and dryness Of the atmos-
heat, at nightfall, so that though it does not
quite freeze, the temperature closely approx
hand a large stock of overcoats. Stoves for
heating purposes are unknown, but WOODEN
blankets and warm underwear are necessities.
for out ofthe "a hours is like that of New Eng.
land, and the approach of winter, cold, clear and
bracing. From II till p. m. the sun shines, hot
and tropical. compelling the pedestrian to seek
the shady side of the street. but even his glowing
rays, at this elevation, are far from ntolerable.
The visitor from the north, then, should come
prepared with wraps and warm underwear II
he does not Absolutely suffer for want of them
the natives wear cotton all the year round-he
sleeveless houses.
MEXICAN TOPOGRAPHY.
AS to picturesqueness, the best features Of
Mexican scenery pertain to the so-called TERRA
calfente, from to 900 feet above the sea, and
the terra te7npldda from 5000 feet to 5000
feet, rather than to the terra fra, which COM
prises ali territory above the latter point, and
In which the City OF Mexico is situated. We
INN nm
point, though it may not harmonic with the
subsidized reports of the railway and tourist
miles in length, and varying from 400 to $50
miles in width. Break up its surface into vast
tumble OF mountain ranges, gradually in
they attain their greatest altitude at the sum-
nit Of Mt. Popocatepetl 1883 feet above the
sea. Now, imagine gigantic hand sweeping
southwark from the northern boundary, while
these mountain chains are yet in a plastic
state to point half way of the length of the
smooth as a billiard board. destitute OF trees,
hills or rocks. and bounded on either side by
the jagged. serrated fragments Of the mountain
immense plain, called the Great Central Ele-
waited Plateau, is built the first railroad line to
connect the ancient capital of the Aztecs with
railroad is known as the Mexican Central
WHERE THE MExICANS LIVE.
For the greater part of the three days journey
from the frontier town of Ell Paso. the traveller
sees neither cities, towns, villages, nor other
evidences of wealth and population. No doubt
mense droves OF cattle on these plains, but they
are not visible. Occasionally the hills bound
ing the plateau show seams and openings,
which evince the industry of the deliver after
silver, but the railroad does not approach them.
When water is attainable for frrigating pur-
the land is said to produce two crops a year
under proper management, but these farms
are SO exceptional as to excite curiosity rather
than to give an impression of fertility. Where
do the Mexicans Liver" at last we inquire of a
native fellow traveller: "Wait, senorr' he re-
ps he people Of Mexico too wise
last last the l train plunges into the he
valleys
descends to traverse some green rivers course,
till again it reaches the memorable mountain
the Mexican's remark. These hills, so rugged,
brown and repelling, are full of silver. These
valleys, SO narrow and confined, are veritable
fruits and vegetables. The Mexican is wise in
his day, generation and country. He leaves the
vast dMv hice plains
capital may drop its millions, If it chooses; but
he prefers to inhabit these luscious valleys, and
bore holes and drive tunnels into the inexhaus-
tible hills with the kings fifth part, of whose
treasured stores Spain so long maintained her
armies, navies and historic grandeur.
THE MOUNTAIN COUNTRY.
From the time we strike the treasure trove"
of these hills and valleys cities and towns be-
come numerous, traIuC increases and the seem
cry becomes interesting and picturesque to the
chance traveller. With singular obtuseness the
Mexicans do not allow the railroad to come
near enough to their cities and towns to allow
the traveller passing inspection of their merits
or dement's. They are usually distant a full
mile or two from the railroad stations. Do they
fear the contagiOn of American enterprise. the
competition OF American business, or the infec-
ton of American religion? Or are they mainly
sOlicitous for the Enthusiastically dull donkeys,
and duller Indians, who, doubtless, would per-
sist in walking as calmly in front of an express
locomotive as on the plaza? "Quien sabe?'' as
the Mexican says. Who knows. However we
willingly exchange closer view of the filthy
towns for the superb panorama now unfold
ing before our eyes. The hills are covered with
most enhancing cloud effects. The broken
character OF the land, the frequency of
stone walls, and the occasional wayside
ing small patches p' Of land On shares shares
for the rich hacendados, remind one of
New England. Off to one side is the dwelling
of the lord Of the manor flor we are passing
through immense estates, sometimes ten miles
in extent) looking like an elaborate fortress.
gateways and lofty turrets. Perchance we come
upon an immense herd of cattle, followed by
the inevitable cowboys, or herd Of goats, with
their guardian standing like O sentinel solitary
and statuesque, in their midst. Between the
gaps of the deep red mountains that wall up
the plains and valleys there are occasional
of a distant range of hills, clothed with mys-
terry and majesty. Groups OF native women
are drawing water from a wayside fountain
and conveying it, In great red jars, to their
humble houses. There are little garden spots
near the streams trickling from the fountains,
set off into compartments by narrow ditches
evidently designed for the proper distribution
of the precious liquid. This Is truly the scenery
Of poetry and romance, albeit saddened by the
thought that these peaceful people are but a
step removed from the state of slavery that
once cursed our own beloved land.
NO ROBBERS OR BRIGANDs.
But now, At last, we have penetrated or rather
QSpQndod mountains hn vol 10
and are at the gates of Mexico once the home
OF the AZtecs, and now the metropolis OF the
Mexican nation. A word about the dangers
expense and Inconvenience of Mexican travel
idea that journey to Mexico necessarily i'm
wolves exposure to pillage. thievery and DOS.
sible murder. We have been taught that here
is the home Of the original simon pure brigand
and that the passing traveller necessarily car
ries his life in his hand and his money in his
boots. Never was there q greater delusion.
The Mexican Central, in all its history, has ex-
perienced only one attempt at derailment of its
trains for plumber, a la Jesse James, and in that
case the robbers were scattered by the resolute
actions ola exican boy, armed with repeating
rifle, and IL is said that eighteen OF those en-
and executed by the government. Your Life and
your property is safer here in this city than in
many OF our own great towns. Laws against
criminals are executed with unf1inching sever
ity. The employees Ofthe railroads are not armed
Passengers may pass TO and fro on the ordinary
Probably no city in the world has a more effi-
cient police than the good City of Mexico. Every
street corner has its uniformed guardian.
armed, and at night provided with a lantern.
II a stranger loses his way he is conducted from
post TO post till safely arrived at his destination
no "a q nhar Or cfp