The Baltimore County union., 1886-12-04
Correspondence Baltimore County Union.
A FIRST VISIT TO EUROPE.
PAPER No. S.

Observation-Disclosures" (Lake of the four woody
cantons) is the local name of Lake Lucerne and
as single word is fair illustration of the syntax-
condensing power of the German language. The
regular conformation of this beautiful body of
water divides it virtually into four lakes, which
are Joined together by narrow straits Its "fOrest
cantons" rise about it in almost precipitOus hills
ranging from three thousand to eight thousand
feet in height. few of these terminate in barren
peaks, dark and forbidding, occasionally granite
head lifts itself into the purer ether high enough
to merit a crown of glistening white but most are
covered with verdure-forest below, vividly green
grass above-grass Haunting its soft, tender blades
in the very face Of the snow.
Many of these hills consist of series of plateaus
or land shelves, projecting often beyond their
bases, and upon these plateaus at amazing heights
are perched tiny houses or even whole villages,
seemingly impossible of access, but evidently not
SO to the initiated-for human beings inhabit
these dwellings and sometimes visit the regions
below-but it would take, we should Think
steady head to 60 up and down the almost verti-
cal ladders which form their only highways.
Everybody "goes up" the Rigi, (the most noted
of these heights because of the superb and extend
cd view which it commands) by means of cog
wheel railway, however, but everybody is not so
favored as were we, who saw the Bernese Ober-
land alternately glow and darken, flush and pale
with the reflections of q gorgeous sunset, who
next morning beheld, as it were, the cup of earth
filled with the wine of heaven, the air saturated
with solemn redness, the snow peaks ablaze with
the washing of breakers from this sea of glory.
Lucerne-the town-hugs one end of the lake
at point where its banks sink lowest, and like
all Swiss towns it climbs hill in the rear per-
force. 1t is becoming almost as famous resort
as Baden and is even more beautiful. 1t com
mands, unfortunately, only limited view of the
lake, but from its loftier points the hill country
comes broadly into vision, q scene of varying
beauty, eliminating in the snow-mantled height
of Titlis-Titlis always thrilling to the sight,
| whether ablaze with the kindling fires of early
morning, or sharply glittering against the s - =.
| ,n;ddou snF.i,r sIo~s-S -;tL tue 1i5he OI ~
setting sun
| The Cathedral of Lucerne is comparatively IN
interesting except for the closters set in the outer
walls of circular court surrounding it. This
court, singularly enough, is open thoroughfsre,
sort of short cut from street to street, and The
cloisters, which as open as the court contain
tablets snd monuments to the memory of the dead
| A more interesting tribute to the departed, how
ever, is the Lion of Lucerne-worthy monument
to worthy its-commemorating the bravery Of
the Swiss Guard who fell in defense of the Tuille-
| ries in 1892. Within a niche, cut in the natural
sandstone wall projecting from the hill that is
climbed by the town, lies the huge king of beasts
in mortal anguish, his body pierced by a broken
lance, his paw protecting the Bourbon lily The
conception and model fitting outcomes Of
| Thowaldsen's genius, fitting expression Of the
faithfuness to duty that marked the spirits of the
noble Helvetans.
| At the southern extremity of the southernmost
division of Lake Lucerne is point said to be the
spot upon which Tell sprang when leaping from
| Geslers boat. It is marked by a tiny chapel con-
tanning altar and adorned with scenes from the
life of the great Swiss patriot There are no doors
to this singular structure The whole frontis open
to the light and the air, but an iron railing reach
ing to the very roof protects the sacred interior
from the intruding foot. Back of the chapel rises
the almost inaccessible Tells Platte, or plateau.
Upon this height is to be found Tells Platte Hotel,
built against the earth in the rear and fronting
upon the Axenstasse, wonderful road cut in the
hillside, tunnelled here and there through the
solid rock, and affording from any point in its
course-even in the tunnels through windows cut
into daylight-enrapturing views of the lake and
its surroundings. An idylic life can one lead
upon these lovely heights and we did not wonder
that an American family, who had ensconced them
selves in tiny chateau upon this interesting
highway, found it next to impossible to leave the
charming spot.
All too quickly passed the days of our stay in
this delightful region, exquisite renditions of
Bach and Wagner upon fairly good piano by a
gifted German amateur sojourning in the hotel
adding another to the already too numerous at
fractions of the place, and felt that prospec-
tive visit to the famed st. Gothard pass was
scarcely sufficient to reconcile US to our departure
| M A. G.