, 1886-10-09
MODERN JERUSALEM.
A TRAVELLERS REALISTIC VIEW OF
THE HOLY CITY.

Christian Conceptions of the Place Con"
trasted with tho Turkish Actually
Walls Only Two and a Half Miles
About-Scenes.
We will take a walk. The city is not
lnrge-the twalls not very long-suppose
we take them on our left and see how
long IL takes to come back again The
way about The walls is first by the well
male modern road that leads to Bethle-
hem-by tue deep. dry moat and by tho
rim Of Hinnom vale. Then by a donkey
p,th it takes the left-now up, now down:
now by the burying ground. aud by old
gates and older stones. s~kirting the ked-
ron vale, and then Gehennah's gulch;
then by IA narrow foot path past the gar
den patches, past old knotted. gnnrled
olive trees; past Bethany's mud hou-es
clinging TO the dreary. blisiered walls
and past the golden g~ate-skirting the
valley of Jehosaphat with his rock tomb
aud that of Absalom and Zachariah; past
the st. Stephen gaze that gives "A view OF
sad Gethsemane and Olivet; then through
among the Moslem graves and tombs
where waiting women sit and mourn their
dead; past the Damascus gate. in view OF
Jeremiah's cave where erst he sat so
many recluse years and pondered DER the
past, and Irophesied of future woes; then
past more walls and heaps of rubbish.
stones and aged oil We trees that have seen
the tears ard heard the signs of centuries,
we come back TO the modern homes and
streets again, and on a modern pavement
by II lot OF modern traders shop stands
we by Jaffa gate again.
THE GREAT CITY OF DAVID.
Look at your watcn. Not quite sixty
minutes gone since we stood here before,
vet va hnNa nom naapl all fhasa xya la
about-been clear around the pre- cent
Jewish city. which now il twice as large
as was 1t wneu the Savior died on Cal
varyl Now are these walls Two miles and
a half about: then, perhaps, "A fraction
more than one-a city then upon II walled
space--with lions hill, Morlah-with all
its temples, houses, streets, about the size
of SIX modern church blocksl Such was
the magnitude of tue great city Of David,
a mere speck upon this Ju lean noun
tain range; a barren place amt more bar
rem places. city without sewerage. gas or
aqueducts; city without streets wnere
carriage wheels cou. roll-inerely a hor-
nets nest hanging TO a rock. an eagles
nest among the mountain crags.
But let Us pass the gate and step within
within Jerusaleml How your blood
[tingles-how play your nerves; the very
Senses throo us You come III where David
came. and stani upon the pl ice whe .
sIood the priests and prophet zen of old,
Were stood and taught the Saviour Of
the world, where stood the Jewish kings.
and those who came with file anI swor.i
and dragged them forth to grace the A.
syrian or II Roman holiday Within the
walls that well sIrround the center OF the
world; within the city unto wnich all
Christendom bows low; upon the spot o.
the great Christian woll4's hallowed us
Iociutionsl
Well, we will go beyond the gates and
pace the streets Of David aid his genera
tons. For ten or twenty rods you'll lind
themfaiily good. A carriage might come
into that eXtent-nom more. The street that
LEAFS still farther on Is steep AMI stepped
and narrow. Follow it down-come dow
the dirty, slippery stone. Ttke need here
lest you Jill The lining shops are low
aud small. and reek with noisome odors.
Hut come Along, yet mind the mui aud
nlth-it thieken> every step. The way Is
straight and steep and full of null. Ths
crowd of hurrying people chokes it up; 80
do the laden donkeys-laden with gools
and city sculch and fifth that Craze your
lament. We give it up. The mud and
filth increases every stepi Our boots are
wet and foul, our clothes are splashed
with over filthy mire. Enou I'll o. this
We turn about, retrace our dubious steps
and hunt another street-turn to the one
called Christian.
A VAL oil HUMILIATION
The Christian street-there's nothing in
a name is a vale OF humiliation. Wet.
muddy, filthy still and paved with ran
dom rocks hat hurt your feet clear
through thick leather so.es, and speak
aloud of penance. The shops are thick
and low and very badly kept; the windows
dirty; floors and walls a crying, muddy
shame; the whole a den of desolation.
Ambitious tradesmen beck and call you
In. They slout their wares and tell OF
Photographs for sale and things olive
wood; SWING rosaries before your face and
fiaunt the cruciiix AS though they dealt in
herr.ng%. But you have little care to
look about your feet, lest they hould
slip an let you down. D.sgusttd every
ftep. you turn not to the ri snt to seek the
hoy sepulcher, hut take the left and
climb for n higher and dryer soil.
And this Is Jerusalem. The thrill you
felt at coming through the gate is gone.
Gone is the nervous thrill, the pious
thoughts. the sentiment that captured you
withal; gone are your hopes of peace, and
quiet, thoushtful rest within these times
stained walls, as back you take your way
to your hotel without the walls to gain
yous room, invoke a fire. to rest YOU bones
before; scrape Off tire mud and dry your
well wet boots. "Jerusalemi nv happy
hom"; name ever dear to mel' May be in
mental theory, as we 60 through It's
3 reefs and see its shrines while sitting In
our soft arm chair at home. but here we
stop and think To- morrow we may have
courage to try again.
Witnout the city walls are many mod
ern buildiny s-hote 3 and hospitals. Offices
of the government. and many a pretty
private house AMI shop. AL these were
built within a score of years-amhitious
Jews have sent some money here 10 help
his revival work, to help to renew the
city's lie; ambitious churches make a
show OF enterprise-one vieing with the
other: hopeful hotel keepers who hope 10
thrive upon the tourists pur eat all
events the city-outside the gates is look
ing up again. Within-well, you know
my opinion of it a.ready-Davenport,
Iowa, Democrat.
A Natural Mistake.
Mr.. Il. "a prominent politician)-Uncl
Rastus, ! want you TO come up to my
house and vindicate the kitchen ceiling.