Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1886-04-17
MAKING KID GLON Is.
DESCRIPTION OF LEADING PROCESSES
IN THEIR MANUFACTURE.

IN THEIR MANUFACTURE.
The First Thing That Is Done with the
Raw Skin-The Peculiar Method of Tan
ming Application OF the Dye-Putting
on the Finishing Touches.
Kid gloves are made. to a smaller extent,
in England ard Germany but those Of
best quality are usually manufactured in
France In all there are 2lp separate pro
cesses before the raw skin Is converted
into the kid glove The first thing To do
is. of course. to remove the hair from the
raw skins. and for this purpose lime is
used, they being immersed from a fort
night to three weeks in pits containing
water and lime The skins are constantly
turned and shifted about by wOrkmen
armed with long iron tongs, and when
taken out II is found that the lime has
loosened the cuticle Of the skin, thus
rendering the removal of the hair a more
easy matter From the lime pits the skins
are taken to the unhairing room, where
they are stretched ON sort Of wooden
block, and are scraped with
blunt wo-handled knife. This
removes lut udH- htN hlN AO"
taken in hand by the "tiesher,
piece. and such portions Of adipose
matter rs may still adhere to the skin.
The skins now pass on to the "scudder, "
who removes any hair that. may have hith-
erto escaped the knives )f the previous
operators. They are neIs left To soak in
clear water, to remove all traces Of the
lime. and from thence tn ~ undergo pro
cess of fermentation that is to say, they
are placed in a mixture of warm water
and bran which not only removes any
ficShy impurty from the skins, but also
renders them soft and supple Kid skins
are not tanned like ordinary leather but
are immersed in large, revolving
"drum,' which contains mixture com
posed Of yOlk of eggs, wheaton flour, alum
and salt: and so enormous is the cOnsump-
ton Of the former ingredients that at one
factory in ChaumOnt no fewer than 4,O0u
eggs are needed every day. The skins are
allowed t. remain in this costly paste for
rather more than an hour. the drum being
kept revolving by means Of machinery.
/ They are next taken out, and
removed to the cellars for the
night, and from thence are con
/ reyed on the following day TO the dr. ing
/ room, where they are subjected to a
temperature varying from l+O to Ia
/ degrees Each skin is hung separately oT
/ hooks, and thus they dry very quickly
/ This process leaves them somew hat hard
/ and they are next seasoned or sam
mied" with cold water. and then stretched
| backwards and forwards over an upright
! knife. shaped like half-mOOn. After
! being wetted again, they are shaved by
means of specially constructed knives
/ which remove the under flesh The skin!
/ are now coated with a composition Of flour
oil, and yolk Of egg, which makes then
soft and pliable They are then conveyed
to the dye e-hOuse
/ Before being dyed the skins are trOddeI
under foot for several hours in water
Having been rinsed, the skins are nov
moistened with more yOlk of eggs, and ar
allowed to rest a day before they are dyeC
by the workmen. who, taking brusl
dipped in ammonia, spread it over th'
skin, and then apply several COatings o
the dye. For skins that are dyed on boil
sides, of course, another process
employed. The wOrkmen place the skin
in large vat, and while treading then
down pour in the cOlOring liquid. Thos'
that are intended for black gloves show
after their first dip in the dye, hluisl
tinge, but this is worked off until the skin
present brilliant and perfect black.
The skins, having been dried and dyed
are now subjected 10 process known a
grounding" the object of which is to re
move all rOughness, and render then
thinner and more supple. They are mex
sorted according to their quality and size
and are passed on to the cutters, who Gu
them into the several detached parts o
gloves. This operation requires grea
judgment, for the workman has to ALLOW
for the natural stretch OF the skin. Tn
finished skins having been selected an,
mapped out by the sOrters and pieced ou
by the cutters, are put over a frame look
ing like defOrmed glove. Thes
frames are SO made that the,
represent the whole glove lai
ont unsewn. The gloves. with the thumb
duly fitted and put together, are place
in a press, after which they are sen
to be punched by means Of machinery
The edges of the gloves are refOlded b
machinery, and are then ready for sewing
II France the work of stitching is don
chiefly by hand, although there are som
very ingenious machines invented to pei
form this operation.
The fasteningS are now attached D
means of rivets, which are hammered o
by girls called riveuses The glove ha
now been sewn, and furnished with but
tons It only remains To straighten it b
placing it on a glove-stick They are the
arranged in dozens, and being envelope
in paper bands. are packed in card boxe
ready to be despatched from the factory
Cassell's Family Magazine.