The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1886-09-18
VOL. XXI.-NO. 45.
Our @liu.
NORWAY.

Scenery which Compares with that of the
Bernese Alps-Hospitable Treatment Of
the Traveller-Why Americans are Favored
The Midnight Sun.
No country in Europe possesses attrac-
tions for a summer tourist equal to those
found upon the Scandinavian peninsula,
writes Thondhjem correspondent of the
San Francisco Chronicle. Here is relief
from the heat of Italy and Southern France;
here is scenery which in wild grandeur
compares with the Bernese Alps; here are
mighty cascades and all the adjuncts which
comprise the picturesque; and here only
Flora has bestowed her fragrant favors
with more lavish hand than in California.
Moreover, this Ultima Thule of Strabo
proves extremely interesting to the Eng
disappearing race from the fact here ram
ify the roots of our genealogical tree.
Henghist and Horsa, descending from Jut-
land to the isle of Thanet, were the first
Englishmen. Their language differed lit
! tie from that now spoken in some Norwe-
gian districts. The inconvenience which
the Morse travellers experienced few
years ago have been remedied. New roads
are constructed, modern hotels built, and
so many other reforms inaugurated that
the tourist is no longer a pioneer. 1t is
strange how the illustrations of our old
Biographies are impressed upon the mind.
The merest mention of tropics always forces
upon my mental vision an abominable pic
ture of great trees swarming with parrots,
encircled by Demonstrators, and festoon-
ed with monkey-chains, while below ele-
plants coquette with hippopotami. 1t is
needless to add that visit dispelled the
illusion. Just so with Norway. The
geographer illustrates it with pictures only
of icebergs, polar bears, and Lapps in win
ter costume. With these before the mind,
the tourist rides in surprise through lovely
green valleys, fragrant with flowers, and
reaches North cape to find it as innocent
of ice and polar bears as the north heads
of the Golden Gate, which it resembles.
The first impressive peculiarity of north
ern lands is the extent of twilight. Early
in June, at Copenhagen, l could read by
the twilight at II P. NJ. At Stockholm
it was continual day, and after crossing the
Arctic circle the sun was constantly in
view. The deserted appearance of sleep
ing village in daylight is remarkable.
Norway has three cities of Importance
Christiania, the political centre; Bergen,
noted for its commerce, and Throndhjem,
of historical interest The first named,
delightfully."- situated at the head of its
celebrated fjord, has population of 1885,
900, a well-equipped university, parks,
tram lines, and other accessories of COM
mercial metropolis. In her museum is
found the recently excavated Viking ship,
which, although nine hundred years old,
is in an excellent state of preservation.
The craft is seventy-five feet over all and
sixteen feet beam, with lines similar to
those used by Norwegian boat-builders at
the present time. Throndhjem was form
erly the capital, and hither all Kings must
come to be crowned The cathedral, erect
ed by pilgrims to the shrine of st. Olaf,
was completed in 1910, and is the most
remarkable structure of Romanesque and
Gothic architecture of its era.
In general contour Norway is exceed
ingly rough and mountainous. The scene
ry is more varied, but not so charming as
that of Scotland. The mountains are
somewhat like the barren heights of the
upper Kings river, and lack the sublime
beauty of the Merced peaks. Water views
lend their charm to nearly every landscape.
Not only is the coast line indented with
winding fjords, but fresh-water lakes COM
pose nearly p per cent Of the surface OF
the country. Norse-pine forests are in
comparable, and her fower-decked glades
only need the fragrance of la yerbG buend
to make them as charming as some of the
Santa Cruz glens. In order to appreciate
Norway's scenery and people it is necessary
to journey through the country by carriole,
mode of locomotion as enjoyable as it is
unique. The national conveyance, or car
riole, is a pony-gig, mountain seat of
cardiiuna-corbi$ shape, just large enough
for one-a slim one. Corpulency never
patronizes these vehicles. As the seat is
innocent of lazy-back, the traveller soon
learns that it is less painful to ego ashore
while a steep ascent is being made, and
thus become a walking exponent of the
theory that there is design in all things,
Carriole-driving is at first very jolly, but,
as the vehicle is exceeding narrow-gauge,
the first rut will bring the elbow and wheel
in contact, causing the novelty-and cuti-
cle-soon to wear of,
As every farmer is compelled by law to
entertain the traveller and furnish fresh
steed to continue the journey, there is nc
occasion to hurry forward to hotel. 1t is
delightful to be ahsolved from the fear that
darkness will overtake you. This feeling
of security, however, must be acquired by
experience. In one of my first trips ]
found myself ten miles from my destination
at p. m, and as darkness is always a "lee
shore" to a traveller, the whip was vigo
rously piled for some time before realized
the state of affairs. Then the pony grazed,
while l promised myself never to say any
thing about it. The Norwegians are char.
acterized by honesty, industry, cheerfulness
and sobriety, which is more than can be
truthfully said of many European nations
Here. even the boatmen are honest You
must watch them or they will be guilty .oi
undercharging Quite different from the
gallant Neapolitan, who demanded dollar
for ferrying nae to Capri steamer, and
finally agreed to perform the service for SIX
cents. The Norskes have inherited the
physical strength and bravery of their hardy
ancestors. An old Viking once made the
voyage from this port to Joppa in his oper
boat. AT Bodo pretty and interesting
young lady informed me that her two
brothers were on their way home from
Natal in little skiff eighteen feet long
An English captain told me that on sight
ing land in a storm last year he found that
the pilots were employed or else blown out
to sea. A boat with two rowers pulled ou
and led the way through the channels SC
that the steamer escaped the perilous reefs
The gallant rowers proved to betwo heroic
women.
The stranger in Norway is welcomed
with genuine hospitality, and, on account
of the people having so many relatives il
the land of plenty, Americans are favored
guests. So interested are these people il