Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1886-10-30
A CULTIVATED NOSE.
WHAT IS NECESSARY IN ORDER Tc
SELECT A PERFUME.
A Matter Of Experimentation Perfume'
are Gathered-Manner of Making some
Of the Popular Brands-Combining
Original Odors.

of the Popular Brands-tombining
Original Odors.
You haven't a cultivated nose" said 6
manufacturer Of perfumes in large store
down town to a customer, who admitted thal
he could no; remember that his nose had eveI
been subjected 10 any particularly inviSorat
ing process, but he asserted that he had per
feet confidence in his sbility to pick out just
what he wanted
That is the trouble with almost every one,
continued the dealer, who attempts u select
a perfume when not used to it. That man
who has just left here will not be satisfied
with his purchase the next time lie takes
smell of it because he will not find it to bt
what he expected. After u nosc that has not
been raised in the business smells four or five
samples of cologne, the flavor of each vii
linger in the noStrils and then an inferior
and poorer odor, if introduced to these linger
ing SCENTS in almost every case viii form
pleasing combination that is thought 20 he
satisfactory. For the time being it will be-,
but afterward the compounder Of coiognos
will be called fraud. The sense Of smell i.
widely different in individuals, and the i'm.
aginatiOn helps along wonderfully.
WHAT ACUTE NOSES CAN DO.
As matter of experiment | have placed
the same kind Of cologne in twelve bottles
labeled differently, and have had people take
a smell Of all the bottles and detect the re-
semblance of each one to the flower men-
| toned on the label. Again have seen noses
so acute that they would put out from com
| bination OF odors each ingredient and rarely
| would ara lie missed. This is wonderful
| thing but the nose can lie trained TO do it,
g..
| in order to make up any kind OF cologne from
a given sample. This explains the method by
which the famous colognes are initiated and
dealer can hardly start a new brand on the
| market before every one in the business Is
making the same thing.
The best perfumes are made from flowers
The effort that is being made to extract per-
| fumes from petroleum and other things
| will prove abor,ive, as they can never
| equal the delicacy Of the odor Of a
| genuine flower. The amount of cologne
made in America Is enormous, but it does
| not approach the quantity manufactured
| in Europe, where its use is well nigh uni
versal. In this country perfumes are made
| from the original flowers only on a small
scale, and even then it is too expensive to 60
into general competition on such basis. The
/ OIOTS uIt III lIt VI
| oils and essences, and from these as base the
colognes are made In many foreign coun-
| tries whole communities are supported by
cultivating and gathering flowers. The cut
flowers are usually placed in large watts
upon which a proportionate amount of
water is poured After it has stood for a
certain time the process of evaporation is
hLltened by heat, and the oil in the flowers
| ,,1, = ..al
ard the oil is found floating on the water.
The oil seems TO contain the aromatic princi
pie of plants. To make essences from the oil
| it is usually mixed with alcohol. Some Of the
oils are so volatile that they cannot be gath,
cred in this manner. They will fly off in the
process Of distillation with water, and the
delicate suggestions of sweetness are lost Tc
opviate this a heavy or fixed oil is employed
1t is usually the finest grade of beef suet This
BY heat is converted into liquid state, and
the flowers are put into it. The Odor Of the
plant will pass into the fixed oil and be held q
prisoner Some alcohol is also used in thi>
method, and it is in the shape of beef suet
paste laden with the fragrance of many beau
tiful flowers that much of our perfume is i'm
ported.
HOW PERFUMES ARE GATHERED.
"The famous altar of roses is made from
the Rosa Damascena, which grows like q
weed in Smyrna and in some parts of Tur
key and France, though the growth is com
paratively small in the latter country. The
natives of these places collect this oil in q
simple manner The roses are placed in
water, and after decomposition sets in the oil
floats on the surface and it is absorbed by cot
ton balls deftly dipped into the liquid. The
cotton under pressure gives up this oil, which
| is bottled and sealed A bushel of fowerS
will produce only a few drops of oil The
genuine is the most expensive oil III the mar
ket, and worth $50 an ounce. 1t is adulter
ated with oil of rhoiium, wax and other sub
stances, and the price is arranged to suit the
purchaser. The strength of this oil makes il
sickening in its natural state. The adultera
ton has reached such high state of perfec
ton that even the most expert are deceived
by it.
! "Patchoul Is made from a natural plant
growing in great abundance in the Malay
islands, and is a great favorite as a perfume
There is a growing demand now for Lavender
water. II is made by mixing rose and orange
waters with the oil of lavender, and has re
fined and pleasant as well as refreshing odor
The English oil of lavender is the best that i.
on the market, and besides being used as g
perfume is a favorite article in bakeries as
flavor for cakes and fancy products. 1t is g
high stimulant and efficient aid TO digestion
| until the system becomes used TO it, and theI
it is liable to breed one of the worst forms Of
| dyspepsia The Lavender shrub and the les
samine plant are cultivated to a large extent
in England and France for this industry
The genuine heliotrope is not as fine an odoI
as the imitation. The latter is known as the
white heliotrope and is made from combina
ton of violet and vanilla, and has a soporifiC
tendency if breathed for any length of time
| Bergamot which with musk forms the
staple perfume of the colored population
is a comparatively cheap oil 1t is made
from a small species of lemon, the best
quality of which grows in the island oi
Sicily, and is cultivated specially for tht
purpose The fruit is picked while hard and
unripe and it takes about 400 TO produce q
pint of oil under pressure BergamOt is q
slight irritant, and it is said will raise haiI
on a bald head. The distinguishing mark OF
the tube rose is strength, while the violet i.
| light and pure. The verbena was once q
| great favorite, but it is now rarely called for
| The rose geranium makes an elegant per
| fume and is nearly as good as the altar OF
roses The lily of the valley produces one OF
the richest perfumes, and the lemon, Orange
and daffodil are much thought Of
But the best perfumes are combinations OF
the original odors. There are about 100 OF
them, many of them which have had theiI
day The secret Of combination is TO mix
the odors so that none is prominent and al
are lost The best two are the ancient eau dC
cologne and the cashmere bouquet. To M,
the odors so that they blend perfectly is diff
ficult. One great obstacle is that when the
oiors are mixed one or more of them vii
fade away and disappear, having seemingly
been neutralized and worn out by time. -
New York Tribune.
Education OF the ,onyIcIs.
Warden Brush of Sing Sing prison tells
me that the evening schools for the education