Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-06-27
DRESSING.
GONE OF THE vERYLArEsr PARIsrAH
FASHIONS.

a Batch Of Interesting Notes and News
for Lady Readsrs-Dressss for
Summer Wear.
Emeline Raymond thus writes from
Paris 70 Harpsr's Bazar /: A cursory
examination Of the feminine toilet
would incline one to believe that no
change whatever had been made in it.
But after institutiDg . comparison
between this seasons toilet and
that Of the preceding season we
arc compelled to acknowledge that
even il what was worn last season still
continues to be worn, there are many
additions in fabrics and styles OF gar
men,s which were unknown before the
present season. In short, fashion pro-
crosses no longer, as formerly, by the
process Of exclusion, but in the way OF
continuous annexation. One style no
longer replaces preceding one; it is
added to it, and helps to enlarge the
already vast domain Of dress. For
this reason, too, it is impossible ever to
say the last word on the subject, since
each new day brings fresh details.
The last reception toilets Of spring
give the keynote to the early casino
toilets OF summer. There are hume
rous pretty evening corsages, not CON-
pletely deccolete, for the shoulders are
only, it seems, uncovered in cold wea-
Their, but cut round like the corsage
called Il la rierge. One Of the sides is
sometimes trimmed with garland Of
the flowers in season, while the other
will have a drapery Of tulle or
lace; in other words, the corsage
will have a half bertha Of flow.
ers extending from the middle
of the back to the middle OF the
front, the other half Of the bertha for
the other side consisting Of tulle or
lace drapery. Sometimes the garland
is prolonged across the front Of the
corsage, and fastened on the hip; often
the very short overskirt, so short as to
be almost paniers, has a fringe OF the
same blossoms employed for the bertha,
and in that case ribbon is excluded en-
tirely. and in place Of a shoulder-knot
there will be tuft Of the same flowers,
and still another and larger tuft than
that on the shoulder at the bottom Of
the back where the belt bow would BIO.
For summer evening receptions there
are lightweight silks in very light tints,
combined with open-work woollens,
with embroidered tulle, with handsome
imitation point d'Alencon, or with gull
pure piece laces in raised designs. The
general feature of such toilets are
light silk and transparent stuffs; flow
ers that are in blossom at the time
" hen the dress is worn-artifcial flow
ers, Of course, but very exact copies Of
nature; silk shoes of the same color as
the toilet, and silk stockings; Suede
gloves invariably; few or no jewels
pearls alone are worn at all seasons.
The prediction for matching is still
Characteristic Of present fashions.
Numbers Of small wraps, composite
Of pelerine, yisite, and mantle, are
made Of one Of the stuffs that compose
TIE dress the parasol, too, is made OF
one Of the fabrics in combination tot
let. Handles Of parasols are longer
than usual this summer, perhaps be-
cause the extraordir ry height Of bon
nets had to be ia A into consideration.
Many straw hats are entirely covered
over with point d'esprit tulle, shirred,
either white or black with black tulle
some red roses are combined, and with
white tulle the bonnet is trimmed with
clusters Of any flexible and dropping
flower, which, if the present fashion is
followed with precision, are fastened at
The centre Of the summit of the crown,
with the dropping sprays falling and
yelling it on all sides.
Styles Of skirts, corsages, and wraps
can be studied and copied, if need be;
but there are certain rules for the en-
ploy melt Of fabrics which are not so
obvious to the initiated, and which it
may be we'll to touch upon. Every new
fabric is employed for certain predeter-
mined purposes, and seldom appears in
the best taste when appropriated to
other uses. Thus there are cashmeres
with stripes Of several colors, very gay
of aspect these cashmeres, and also
the woollens, with largo red disks upon
grounds Of all possible tints, can only
be used for street-dresses in the morn
ing; their sole ornament is woollen
co1deliere, with thistle-0haped tassels,
which is used to drape the oyerskirt on
one side. Entire costumes are made OF
these fabrics, skirt, overskirt, and cor
sage all Of the same material.
The promenade and visiting toilette
which succeed the costumes just de-
scribed may be Of any Of the innumera-
bic family Of Examines, with or without
woven trimming bands. A fine etamine
with Gobelin bands is in the best taste;
one large and handsome pattern forms
the front Of the skirt, and narrow bands
with a similar design reduced, are used
for the corsage and sleeves. Belonging
to the same class Of suits are the wool
Siciliennes with bands Of Oriental en-
broidery, or floral embroidery, and the
Pekins with velvet or plush stripes on
hin ground the bands, and the stripes
as well, are used horizontally or per-
Pepdicularly according to preference.
For small dinners selection is male
among the numerous open-work tissues.
For these fabrics the favored tints this
summer are ecru and beige they are
placed over silk skirt of thu same
color or one in direct contrast. Among
these fabrics is boucle net in stripes on
ground of summer Sicilienne; the
net is ecru, with bouclettes chaDgeable
in many cOlors, and the plain Sicilienne
stripe between is old red. The corssge
for this dress is made either Of plain
ecru Sicilienne or of old red Sicilienne
of the shade in the stripes.
EVENING WEAR.
For evening toilets, casinos, grand