The Sunday herald., 1886-09-19
THE FASHIONS.
Linen cuffs are again worn.


Chemisettes grow In fashionable favor.
The newest sleeve Ia cut all In one piece.
Fail hats and bonncts have very high crowns.
The collars Of new frocks arc higher than ever.
New linen CUTS arc very close around the wrist.
Chinta agurcs are printed on new silk stockings.
Tailor gowns will he more worn than ever this fall
All seams In the waists OF new dresses are whale
boned
Velvet and wool combinations are seen In new fall
frocks.
High turncd.down collars are seen on i,nporta.
| tions Of new frocks.
The narrow lapceke ngure ls tho effect Of the
present cut OF corsaRcs,
Shoulder seams OF frocks, basdues, and man,els
| are all made very short.
No lady wears dresses, costumes, or toilets at
present, but frocks and gowns
The crowns Of fall hats are OF CLOTH velvet. and
satin, with a seam directly in the back.
Black, brown, tan, dark blue, and Russian green
are the preferred colors for fall hats.
Conlcal crowns, nittencd at the slies and tilted
forward, are the feature In fall hats.
Stripes vertical and horizontal, hair lines, plalds
| aud checks will all be very fashionable.
New polonaises are made very full In the back
breadths Of the skirt, but are not much loopcd.
Open fgrec buttons inSiull metals, bronze, brass,
copper, and silver are used on new fall frocks
| Ladies' housekeeping aprons are made Of ane
lawn, and so full and long AZ to completely cover
the skirt.
New bonnet shapes are very small capotcs, with
high, pointed crowns and up,urned, high, peaked
brlms cleft In the middle to form av.
| The nrst importations Of fall hats have conIcal
crowns Of CLOTH satin. or velvet and rolled brlms Of
curled Astrachan or boucle wooden.
Tue basque pointed In 'front.' with position back
/ nj M Ufh I'm Ia scro
sort OF dress, from glugham to "coih Of gold" says
the New York Evening Post.
Turbans In new autumn shapes will bc very popu-
lar the season through There Ia variety Of styles
brought out, 80 that faces be suited to becoming
shapes. Turbans can be worn on any occasion, tho
plain or tho elaborate style Of their garniture set
tllng tho matter Of their appropriateness for full
dress, street, or travelling wear.
Some OF the latest Imported visiting dresses for
young ladies' arc exceptionally elegant and Stylish
Among them are gowns Of Lyons satln In black aud
white or In black alone. the satin very rich and
heavy, quite unlike the surah satin 30 long favored
One Of these toilets In black is made up In comblna-
on with mauvo satin Of an exquisite plnklsh sheen,
with Wide panels at each side, draped with Jet.
beaded net whose designs are beautiful beyond de.
scrlpton. Down at the front Is q broad killing OF
black satin, with magnificent beaded penants set ut
intervals down the centre Of each kilt The sleeves
Of the bodice arc OF mauve satin, yelled with beaded
lace, aud the front opens vest Of plated black
satin, ornamentei with Jet meJallons, with mauvo
satin revers down each side.
Mousselaue de sole, most beautiful dIaplauous
silk muslin Of exquisite texture, Is very fashionable
ut various watering places for dancing toilets One
gown worn by the wife Of an army officer, who has
summered at Long Branch, was made Of mousse
lsine dc sole OF pale tea-rose tint, brocadcd with
scarlet pOmegrannte blossoms and moss. green To-
llagc. The dress was made up over srirah OF very
delicate shade OF pale green, Its sheen but family
showing beneath the airy sken folds Of the trans.
parent muslin. Another dress OF white mousselainc
dc sole was brocaded with Scottish bluebells and
pink mossbuds, this made up over q trained Prln-
cess slip Of pale blue satin foulard.
ono Of the new round hats for autumn Is called
tho "Chapeau Crenaux," !" and model OF this name
is made OF dark green rusles closely braided In
basket patterns. The Wide brlrn turns up very
high on one SIDE AMI simply curves over the face on
the other. The hat is faced with dark myrtle green
velvet, and around the eccentric couical
crown are laid. one above another, large full half
plumes Of old gold, scarlet, dark green and bronze
The hat Is designed to be worn en- suite with a
tailor-made gown OF Scotch tweed, whose varl.col-
ored checks are reproduced In the plumes on the
"chapeau."
Bodces, round ,waisted and arranged with sur.
pllce fronts, decided favores. A tastefuI man.
ner Of varying their character was recently noted
on gown OF creail-c0lored india batiste. The
dress had the usual rOund-waisted full bodice, and
above this was q pointed Swiss girde made of
golden brown velvet, with braces Of the same, cut
bias, and passed over the shoulders, the ends Of
which sloped to point, being fastened underneath
the glrdle The fancy ID capable OF not few varll-
tiOns, aud many would prefer the bretelcs without
the addition of the Swiss grdle although the braces
alter their effect considerably. This identical style
Is always notceAben pictures Of Italian women,
and the Norwegian national peasants dress presents
some Of the same characteristics.
"Toby" rufies made OF Rich laccs are again In
vogue, aud lailes with long, slender ihroats, who
wear their hair dressed high, IND these graceful
frills very becoming. The ruilies are not of Eliza
bethan stIdaeSs and circumference, but are more
dainty looking and compact. A series OF velvet rib.
bon loops set at Intervals around the edge OF the
frills, and falling over the bodice In 'front.' removes
some Of the rather prlm elect OF the '1obyn frill
proper.
The walstcoat Is still among the chief features Of
the taOr-nade costume with true "LOndOn efrect.r
score OF exceedingly natty costumes sent from an
English house are without exception formed with
wastc0at accompanying the basque OF tweed chevoit
hOmespun, or some other fabric OF like character.
An expensive promenade dress shows line mixture
OF golden brOwn beige, moss green, Indian red, and
CLINT off gold In the wOOf The wastcOat, In regu-
lar Louis XIV style, hasdeep side pockets with
large flaps above, and fastcns down the front with
medium sized enamel and gold buttons, showing
tiny m0saics the exact color Of the threads In the
wOolen goods. A travelling dress In the same style
is made Of the softert clmels hair In three distinct
shades OF gray, opening over q waslCOat OF very
dark-blue plush. embroidered with silks OF q still
deeper shade, aud closed with silver buttons. The
skirt Is Killed with wide band OF plush first laid at
the lower edge.
There Ia still quite furor for paIded fabrics, aud
their reign is likely to prove longer than was
1rst prophesled. There are now shown the High.
land plaid, the marine plaid, the Madras plaid, the
forestcr's plaid, md the nne-blocked shepherds
plaid Deep cardinal and moss green, dark blue
and white or ecru, pine green and doe COLOR garnet
and beige, and golden brown and new gold are the
favorlte combinations In stylish plalded gowns
Light tan color will continue to be a fashionable
shade for both costumes and outer wraps.
Rydangea ID o new shade which is neither pink
nor blue but sort Of sunset purple OF delicate tint
Soft felt hats OF white or red are TO DO very fash
ionable for little children the coming season. A
Grape scarf trims such hats very preitly.
1t Ii now as vulgar to wear silk costume for
shopping 10 as II was fashionable few years ago.
Verify we are progressing!
Bright buttons are worn on chlldren's suits Of
dark, Rich plads, to be fashionable the coming sea
son.
Japanese embroidery is much used for decorative
purposes and the inner sorts are used on dinner Co.'S
tunes.
Nobby little collars. standing high above the vel
vet dress collar, are OF colored batisc or lnen In
either deep red or pink.
Turkish embroidery IL now Initiated 10 nne faucy
work. Il Ia In gold and silver threads and ls worked
OH fine silk null.
There are number Of pretty styles Ia morning or
neglIge costumes with the pettcoat made entirely Of
lace, the oyerdress being OF surah silk.
The close-nttng bonnet will he worn "a generally
as ever the coming season. II is too ladyllke ana
too becoming to be given up without pang.
Checked serges are very durable and also quite
effective In making walking suits. The drapery
hangs In long, graceful lines. The whole costume
Ia most simply made, with no garnure except large
black velvet buttons.
The most ladyllke bOnnets now worn are the snug
nriu aIln triu nmad