Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-01-02

more variation and affords so many more
resources, that il is surprising American
women viii lend themselves to the per-
petuatiOn of SO foolish and limited a mode.
The only explanation Of 1t is that they feel
obliged to wear outin Americathe clothes
they have ordered for high society pur-
poses in England.
SLEEVES
for full dress are among the mooted points
| Just now. II is not often that arms are
left bare to the shoulders as was the case
within few seasons. II the dress is
/ sleeveless, the armhOle is finished with
rim, of a rutle, au epaulette, festooned
cords, or beads, and the gloves reaeh 10
| the upper part oft. Sleeves are also em-
ployed OF different lengths and styles,
some short, some reaching nearly to the
elbow. The newest form for their mate
rlals is gathered up into scant fulluess,an
| the sides clasPed together over the upper
arm, or foundation sleeve, above the ell
bow. This ID derived from classic
mode, and is better adapted to soft silks,
NUNS yelling, gauZes and tulles, than
thicker or suffer materials.
BALL DRESSES AND DINNER GOWNS.
" bite tulle or lace, draped over silk,
still constitutes the materials for most of
the ball dresses or rather for the skirts,
for the bodice is usually distinct and may
! be more, satin or velvet. While MORE
| bodice and wide MORE SASH a "ballet'
skirt OF tulle, forms a pretty and stylish
/ ball dress, but a more useful one ls OF
! hne nuns yelling, vita pointed 'front.' two
/ thirds OF the way up of embroidered satin
/ and pointed piece at the throat, with
standing collar to match. The embrOid-
cry executed in tiny interlaced rings, out
lined with seed pearls, the collar edged
with pearl beads.
very new bodices for dinners are cut
/ quite long and SO as TO come we'll up over
the shoulders, forming draped sides to
plain Transparent ichu, or pointed vest.
I The shoulders are often finished with
knots of ribbon, groups of feathers or
. ornamental designs in passamenteTie,
rom which rich crochet cords are fes-
TONED across the breast. This latter
style IS well adapted to gowns of brown
or black velvet. The skirts of dinner
gowns in rich plain materials and for
middle-aged ladies', are always trained,
but for younger and unmarried women
who wear lighter materials, 1t is quite at
their option 10 have the skirts, even OF
their richest dresses, made long or short.
II made for dancing the skirt ought al
WAYS TO be short.
FestoOned ribbons, ladders Of bows and
groups OF feathers for looking and upon
the shoulders, are seen upon the evening
dresses of young girls; flowers on the
contrary are little worn, there has been q
reaction against the absurd prOtusi0n in
vogue two years ago, yet it must be adj
mitted there is nothing more becoming to
young girls than fresh flowers. But That
which is most desired upon white tulle
draperles by young girls, is not flowers,
the stateliuess of ostrich feathers or the
tGvOlty of ribbons, unless these last are
used as an adjunct, leach In which TO
hold, or upon which to set a row OF dear
81 !.
it is to acknowledge the little impression
made by humane societies. and the ap-
peals Of the Baroness Burdetts-C0utts-
Bartlett, the fact remains that row of
brown or yellow birds, not upon a tree
but upon tulle costume is the de6id-
eratum, the latest touch, although the
effect is TO make the weGrer look like a
Christmas card.
MILLINERY.
Tho very high hat will hardly survive
the season, as a novelty it has already
been superseded by IA peculiar new
b casque, or hemet-shaped hat, which has
| the advantage OF not shutting out So
much Of the sunlight from those who are
behind. The grenaGIer hat could never
have obtained even the limited vogue II
has done, but for the desire OF little WO.
men to make themselves taller and C.
seize upon any means to create an illus
ion to this effect in the minds Of others
The feature OF the millinery is its infinite
variety. The hats are somewhat iudI-
yidualized, but the bonnets are made To
match everything In the way OF costume.
Crowns are made Of stOckn@ette, or
cloth. EN- brOidered, appldued or braided,
and the trimmings OF astrak han, beaver OF
plush. with hUtfy pOm-pous, or birds for
trimming. Some new felt hats and bon
nets are very soft and light. The material
~
bv the insertion of little stars and rings OF
gold which, therefore, form a part OF the
fabric instead of being applied to it. Vel
vet and a group Of ostrich tips form the
most suitable trimming. Red bison suits,
trimmed with White lambs wool, and ac-
COMMANDED by white lambs wool caps and
muis are heing made for the season in
Canada, and are charming for skating
rlnks or real skating purposes. They are
more elective out OF doors in the snow
however, than under a roof. The cap.
have flap buGOned down upon the rim
and sit close to the head. The Jacket is
double breasted and mas a high collar o
lambs wool, which buttons close round
, the throat.
THE USE or WOOL.
There is no more significant fact in re,
gard TO the dress Of women than the ex.
tent to which wool now enters into its
transit0rv fashion is to show ignorance Oi
the growth of Intelligence, the progress o
taste and knowledge Of physiological
laws. Wool is not only useful and SAM
tary; It takes and holds the most exQui
size dyes, and 1t is susceptible Of the finest
: effects in embroidery. A fine wool is in.
, fnitelY to be preferred 20 cheap silk, anC
will Outwear two Of them. But above all
wool is sympa,netc; H. falls into one r
+ moods il is not Oblrusiye; H. makes nt
noise; It is a friend, Kind and serviceablC
f not a conventional friend for whom we
have to dress up and be on good behavior
i Not least among recent improvements
, in clothing is The advance made IN the
% texture, quality and sanitary influence oil
I wooden underwear. Science is heipiuc us
here, As ir the manufacture OF dyes, the
, multiplication and cheapeuug Of colors
f, the invention OF new fabrics from natura
ibres, and the application Of chemical
f, discoveries 30 the purposes of dress orua-
meut1tion. Or. Jaeger, If he has not lu
Z vented wooden garments that viii WARD
Of disease, has at least discovered a
! method OF manufacture that makes them
, q luxury TO wear and renders them Il
+ reservoir. az well as "a vehicle OF warmth