Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-07-31


greatly degenerated in this respect; aud
while maintaining q certain supremacy
in the de sign and technique Of dress, can
no longer be trusted to classify, discrlml-
nate and adapt styles to materials and
persons. The three features of costumes
to-day are the vest, the panel and the
pout at the back OF the skirt. These are
applied to everything-cotton, silk and
Wool-for young girls and married
wOmen-in Paris as well as New York.
Indeed there is no longer any difference,
or any discrimination anywhere. A
woman calling for a gondOlier at the
edge of the Grand Canal in Venice,
wears exactly the same mixed sort OF
toilette and Misunderstanding skirt as a
woman calling for an omnibus on Broad
way, New York.
THE ONLY DIFFERENCE
absolutely is among few artists and
very cultivated, often very rich people,
too, who have made a study OF the sub
ject, or bring to bear upon it the traditions
ot-an old. educated and refined ancestry.
In such families the children and young
girls often dress i'll simple, quaint ways
that are picturesque aud charming; at
the same time perfectly sanitary and con-
venlent. But it is the mother who de-
signs their clothing, not the dressmaker.
| The troublesome elaboration and imprac-
ticability of the designs is all the more
eXasperating in view Of the beauty and
cheapness of the modern cotton mate
rials. There are lawns, mulls and the
like, OF silky texture and exquisite line
ness, which, when covered with lovely en-
brOldery-as they are nOwadays-are
dainty enough for the bridal robe of
princess ana are fifty made up like other
rich materials and associated with tinted
SILK or satin. But it is not these that
come within the resources OF the ma
jority. 1t is the blue, spotted cambrics,
the hair-striped, Scotch ginghams, the
cool, infinitely figured linen lawns and
the embroidered "robes"-Of which thou
sands are sold in white and colors at
from So to $40 each-that need 10 be re-
deemed from the tyranny of the pOuf and
the panel. High fashion is not bound by
one idea; its mission is to differ, not TO
agree, with the prevailing style; and,
therefore, the back draperIes of such Of
its skirts as do not have straight, are soft
and long. 1t has restored the ''surplice"
bodice, the blouse waist, the Breton vest,
and to this adds the straight, square col
lar which gives breadth and character to
narrow shoulders.
BERKSHIRE HOUSE WARNING.
All Berkshire is not so dlstinctively ele-
CANT as LennOX, but it probably contains
full homes than the same space anywhere
else in the world; ard Berkshire house
warming Is very interesting event. The
newly completed dwelling was a modern
one, partly built Of timber, partly of stone,
with towers and battlemented projections
outside and much carved wood and stained
glass within. The guests, many of them,
came from afar; some in carriages and
some by train; the latter finding carriages
| - 1.
! table doors. 1t was wedding anniYer-
sary as well as house warming; and the
hostess stood at the entrance with her
| young daughters on either side OF her, as
! lovely home picture as eyes need desire
| to see. She wore cream India silk,
| sprinkled with brown flowerets, with full
brown crepe de chine vest, and waistbapd
| and bows at the side of brown satin rib
| bon. Her fan was Of cream gauZe, painted
with flight of little brown birds in a soft
summer landscape. One OF the daughters
worea costume Of geranium red, the other
! cream, nuns Yelling. Both mad pOsy
! bouquets of lilies OF the valley.
The toilets of the guests were those O (
any average gathering in New York: but
| there was lack OF distinctive ideas. The
useful black silk and the combination
which even when new always looks as if
made up OF two old dresses, were in the
ma jority. The pretty exceptions were the
white dresses OF some of the young girls
and the spotted tOulards of some of the
married women. A fine black silk dress
{satin fraEcais) was richly embroidered
ON the material and trimmed with masses
of real thread lace. A tawn-colOred silk
was well combined with q brOcade in
cream, fawn and pale blue; and a soft
silk in two shades of wood brown, had
gauze (tull) front and was trimmed with
white lace en- cascade.
A simple, but dainty dress, was Of grey
Saline spotted white, in round clots of diff
ferent sizes, and made with tucked skirt
front of white lawn Duttoned with pearl.
Another very pretty cotton dress was
dark blue, embroidered in an open pat
tern in cream and ecru tints and made up
with full silk front. The back, the sleeves
and a panel were OF embroidery; and it
also formed the border to the long drapery
and the short pointed basque.
DRESSING FOR TENNIS
is very important in all country neighbor-
hoods, and rather difficult for girls who
have not an income, or allowance of their
own, because it Is an extra" the tennis
dress not being available FOR any other
purpose. IL is usually made OF q striped
| materlal--hannel being preferred-and
consists OF skirt ana blouse waist, or Nor
| fUlk jacket ana WDaL Is known as
"DlazeT" or extra jacket to put on when
| not playing. The blazer i5 Il jauntY lit
| tie affair, shaped AT the back, Dut with
! loose cutaway fronts. Sometimes 1t Is
made of the same flannel as the dress,
faced interiorly or lined with silk; some
times of the contrasting color Of the stripe.
Clustered hair stripes OF brown upon
cream, of pink and cream or mauve aud
cream are preferred this year 10 red and
cream or blue and cream stripes; and are
certainly less like a BARRIERS pole upon
the tennis ground.
\ pretty novelty in tennis skirt, con-
sisted of a gray Dlue elastic cloth, opened
in front and buttoned back on each side.
from black velvet striped front. The
basque was fitted and finished with velvet
collar and cuffs. One OF the most popular
OF the tennis suits are those OF cream
flannel with pink or blue or brown silk
collar and cuffs; the monogram OF the club
worked in the collar on the corner; or
upon the little silk flap Of the breast
pocket. into which is thrust the tiny
handkerchief.
Navy blue still holds its own; and
navy blue, twilled flannel suit Is not only
presentable at tennis, out useful wear at
! other times. A young lady, whose SUIT OF
navy blue flannel, once resplendeut in
gold braid, had become the worse for
wear, recently remodeed it and made it
a thing of beauty by cutting the plated
Jacket over in the Breton style aud
tpathpr-stitching the vest. collar. cuffs