Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1886-01-09

of ladies aud gentlemen, including repre-
sentatives from Spain, France and Ger
many, as we'll as from both isis
ter republics" set out at sun
rise from Toluca toward the mountains
of San Miguel de Tutucuitlalpico. Exten-
sive plains covered with rich crops environ
the city for several miles on every side; ;
then, going southwark, we plod through a
wild country covered with lava and vol
canic rocks, until the forest is reached.
Not many years ago, when the stage-coach
made regular trips over this road. 1t was
considered one of the most dangerous in
Mexico, being infested by brigands, who
have prediction for these wild solitudes.
Hundreds of crosses outline the trail, and
upon tall trunk is black object quite IN
keeping with the wild scene-the skull OF
the once-noted robber, Maldonado, whose
head was nailed TO tree beneath which he
committed a peculiarly atroclous murder,
and which still gives warning to his COM
rades and encouragement to travellers.
In woody defile is a small, clear space
called Las Cruces (the crosses, where
hundred crosses point out the site OF a
famous battle between the curate, Hidalgo,
andthe Spanish General Truxillo. In the
midst of hills crowned with noble pines,
beautiful pasture fields dotted with clumps
of trees, which look as if disposed for effect
in an English park-firs, cedars, oaks and
graceful elms-is the village of Lerma.
washed by the river of the same name.
For hundred years Lerna has been ia
nous for the manufacture of spurs, some
of the finest of those clumsy but expensive
silver-mounted affairs, which are the pride
of Mexican equestrians, being made here.
The village lies at the entrance OF the val
ley of Toluca. in marshy country, sur
rounded by dreary plains dotted with pools
of pellucid water and swamps covered with
water fowl.
We encamped upon the river banks, and,
like the daughters of Jerusalem, hung our
belongings upon the willows, while all
hands engaged in pisiculture, and in the
course of an hour had secured enough
white fish, bagre and bass. with an eel or
two, and few of the web-footed, feather
headed water Lizards, called axolotls (Sfre-
don piscitorme), to feed an army. After
ward we visited the nearby Hacienda de
San Nicolas-now the property OF a wealthy
Spaniard, Don Ruperto Benigno Volante.
Once this exceedingly valuable estate was
one of the richest in the country, owned
by the Carmelite monks. Outside of its
small garden not tree is to be seen in the
fields of corn and maguey. All the labor
ers here are Ottomie Indians
POOR BUT DEGRADED TRIBE.
Though most of us were strangers to the
hacinda folk. our coming was hailed with
rejoicing. Upon no account were we al
lowed to depart that night. and indeed it
was not without difficulty that we got away
three days later. Guests fresh from the
mt of NJ u
in these lonesome rural communities, and
the advent ofa jolly party, whether friends
or strangers, is hailed as boon direct from
heaven. Everything that The most gener-
Gus hospitality could conceive was done for
our entertainment; dances, tableaux and
musicaleS were gotten up and not only was
the --LATEST calf literally sacrificed to the oc-
casion, but the torro of the estate, afforded
in that crowning act of hospitality, an i'm
promptu buli-fght. The Volante family
have travelled much in Europe (per force,
as Senior Ruperte was political exile), and
are among the proudeSt and richest in
Mexico. The immediate family resident at
the hacinda numbers about forty persons,
including many distant cousins and rela-
tives by marriage--due chiefly to the
prevalence of an old Spanish custom which
virtually obliges gentleman to
HUSBAND ALL HIS wIFEs RELATIONS,
AS well as his own; to shield them and
their offspring from contact with the world.
and to provide for them if left in destitute
circumstances. This sort of knightly cour-
tesy makes matrimony a serious matter,
and perhaps accounts for the multitude OF
eligible bachelors with which Mexico
abounds; but, badinage apart, it is beau
tiful custom and strong proof of the in
nate courtesy of the race. When Mexi-
can lady is widowed, family council is
held, her male relatives and those of her
husband charging themselves with the
education of her sons and the care of her
self and daughters, quite as matter of
course. Though the widow and her grown
up daughters may be poor, but accom-
plished, nobody dreams of the possibility
of their doing anything toward supporting
themselves, and the aid rendered them is
calmly accepted as an hereditary right, and
if the widow be wealthy, she must still re-
side with her kindred. So thoroughly are
Mexican gentlemen imbued with the idea
of womanly independence, that none of
them regard the care of any number of be-
reaved families as an unjust burden.
During our stay at the hacienda the
grounds were nightly lighted with colored
lamps. and the great hall-when dancing,
tableaus, etc, took place-decorated with
green branches and garlands of fresh
flowers. One morning magnificent
breakfast party was given, and where the
hundred guests were collected in that ap-
parently empty locality was a mystery.
The repast, consisting of many courses,
was served in dishes of solid silver, even to
the plates; and at the bull fight on the
same afternoon, cold milk punch was re-
peatedly handed around in silver cups
lined with gold. In this strange country,
whose hills are ribbed with precious metals,
vast capital has been sunk in diamonds
and plate-no good sign for the commerce
OF the country, and an unfailing incentive
to robbery. FANNIE B. WApD.