Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-05-02

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neutrality SO that one shall not shock or
offend the other. But even the most in
telligent and generally tasteful are not
always proof against craze, and the bon
net OF the period is charming and many
sided lunacy.
PECULIAR FASHIONS FOR SUMMER.
Incoming-that is, summer-iashions
are peculiar; at least, as seen in the
''plece," and unsophisticated women do
not know what to do with them. The
coarse woods Tor street wear must be COM
bined with colored stripes in plush, vel
vet or tapestry designs. The line woods
have lace or open-worked stripes and
must be made up over silk: and the silks
have discarded brocade and have Won
derfully wrought (like close dots beaded
fronts, which cost for this purpose and
Tor trimming $50 per yard. The fashion
aOle tluts IN summer wool are cream and
mastic, or "strlng" color. made over silk
OF the same shade; the basque finished
with high collar, and the sleeves with
cuffs OF dark, rich velvet; garnet, vine
navy blue, brown, ruby or currant red.
Kediern has made an immense success of
dove color combined with Eucalyptus
green. edged with fine gold and pink cord; ;
the hat dove color with velvet trimming
IN the same shade OF green and pink and
gold feathers IN pale shades.
A cream wool costume brought from
abroad by young lady who arrived re-
Gently was simple and very pretty. The
skirt was plated and trimmed with a
broad band OF black velvet. The bodice
had black velvet braces and standing COL
lar, and the hat was a black straw with
straight sailor brim lined with white
straw instead of silk or velvet; and trim
med with a bunch of green watercress
very natural In appearance.
1t is undeniable that these cream wool
fabrics make lovely dresses for young
girls; and it lisa pity that they soil 80
easy as to be impractIcable for the otdi-
nary wear OF ordinary people. These must
console themselves with the reflection
that the newest and most fashionable
dress skirts-like those of last winter
hang straight at the back; that cottOns
are as pretty as silk and are made up
without lace; and that the soft, inexpen-
sive silks, the surahs, the satin merVeil-
leaux, the velontines and the satin fran
caises are more fashionable and more
durable than the old gros-gralns at double
the price.
GooD-BY TO LARGE PATTERNS.
1t will also be useful to bear in mind
that the large patterns housekeeping
in special cases-given place to very
small designs, dots, tiny rings, clo-
yer leaf and key patterns; distinct, but
covering the surface; and fine and pure
enough TO be derived from the old Greek.
These are especially found in the cottons,
dress linens and fOulard silks. The ground
of the cOttOns is often some soft shade of
red, usually deep or dark enough to give
character to its appearance. The minute
figures cover it, and the dress is made
with full skirt and bodice, draped over
skirt-if liked-but no rutfllDg, either of
lace or the material. The small checked
and hair-striped linens are practically IN
destructible. They make up into charm
ing, plated suits with velvet belt, loops
and neck band, and are so inexpensive
that they are available for everyone who
can afford dress at all.
1t is not necessary for all to buy the
kind of wool that needs to be lined with
silk. There are soft, solid woods With
patterns in the self-colOr woven IN the
ground, that are lovely, and the touch OF
velvet upon these gives them satislac-
ton.
Linens do not enter enough into the
calculations of ladies who want cool and
economical dressing for the summer. The
dark figured or hatr-strlped linens make
excellent summer travelling dresses; ADD
can be worn very satisfactorily under a
long. gray alpaca coat, the most service
able, dust-defying and protective of all
summer wraps. Alpaca does not, how
ever, look well in the loose, baggy, big
sleeved dust clOaks which have been ia
vogue OF late years. Its stiffness pre-
vents It from falling into the figure read-
ly, aud it needs therefore to be always
made as fitted or semi-ftting garment.
HOW FASHIONS COME.
Fashions now receive their impetus
from many different sources, notably
from the art industries, which In N W
York have given US some beautiful and
original fabrics as we'll as novel methods
OF decoration. The most charming dress
worn at a recent n neteenth Century
Club meeting was byMrs. James Bro n
Potter. 1t was of old gold tapestry silk
with a sunset glow TO it; and it was made
and outstanding collar Of gold embroider-
ed lace. The long train had an edge of
plated strawberry silk and cream lace.
aud the square bodice had tull front Ot
the plain silk with lace finish. The fab
rio was one OF the beautiful, silken stutfs
designed by Mrs. Wheeler's Society OF As
ISOLATED Artists, and manufactured tor
her by an American firm of silk weayers.
Mrs. Wheeler has also designed a soft
summer silk which is adapted to dresses
as well as summer pOrtieres. The design
is entirely her own and consists OF yellow
cOwslips with sedgy, Olive-tinted foliage
on a sand-cOlored ground and with an in-
descriDably suggestive atmosphere of out
OF doors and the low, moist localities in
which the cOwslip is found.
Fashion in London has accepted with
enthusiasm The beautiful embroidery
upon linens for dresses and the fine di avn
work for underweareXecuted by the peas
ant women of Donegal, under the leader
ship of ladies connected with art decOra-
tive societies; while the tnest laces IN the
trOusseau OF the Enfauta EulalIa came
from Erizegeberge, district which has
been made famous in BOhem a by the hand
work OF the women VINO profit by all new
ideas in a way which shows marvellous
skill. enterprise and industry.
The Donegal embr0ideries upon cream
linen show butter cups and cowslip pat
terms in natural cOlOrs upon the pretty
costumes for country wear; and furnish
MANY suggestions to the clever fingers OF
decorative workers in this country.
GRADUATING DRESSES
are always a source of trouble and anx-
iety with expectant graduates from school
and college, at this season. A few may
be able TO send or give their order 10 a
competent dressmaker; the majority
"wOrry" over the difficulty OF making an
adequate appearance out OF inadequate
resources. The best thing, PROBABLY, that
the majority can do is to procure one Of
the machine-em brOidered white muslins;
make it up with full. open bodice, aud