Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-06-05

Transparent Bonnef>. Parasols and
Fans-Simp,e SUM me Sly les-RevivaI
Of the rfoik-ImProvement I'm Ma
chine Embroidery.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, June a.
While fashions were never more varied or
more full of dainty devices than to-day, the
general effect Is of greater simplicity and a
charming sugxestiveRess of the quaint modes of
our grtndm"tber's diversified by the influence
OF modern ART and Taste.
Ruffies and hounces have disappeared, and
the tucked and knife pleated skirts of thin wool
or linen and lawn might be worn by a chorus
of Shaker maidens were il not for the gay con-
trasts In the striped or embroidered trimmings.
the futtering ribbons, the starred dog collars
and the steeple crowned hats with their ladders
OF bows and feathery aigrettes.
The simplicity. too. is often very deceptive
The village girl who admires the soft, delicate
WOO; the dainty muslin; sees no reason why,
with her own ready fingers, she cannot re-
produce the general effect, and does cot
understand why her efforts fall so far short of
her model. Nor can IL be explained to her linn
led experience. If she told that the cost of
silk, wool and cotton when made up by FASH
fonable dressmaker were about eq Ial-the only
difference the value of the ornamentatiOn: that
earh il lined with silk and mounted with vel
vet, and that tle cotton dress she buys-ten
yards for a dollar and "A spool OF thread thrown
in-bas no more existence for an elegant young
woman of to-day than the blanket and mecca
sins of an Indian.
THE ExTRAvAGASCE OF TO-DAY
is In the special devices of the great fashion
houses for customers vino can afford 10 pay for
them; and the interior finish put upon the
pIainest materials The cloth or camels hair
In delicate tints is specially woven and pre-
pared 1t IL lined with pure twilied silk or
satin, il is fitted to form, which IL it Is not
perfection is made to appear So. 1t Is made
throlighout with the workmanship formerly
known only to fine coats: It'll mounted with
rich, dark Lyons velvet, standing collar. wrist
aud lapel finish and fastened with buttons of
carved pearl, wrought metal or enamel in ex-
elusive and appropriate designs. This vast
amount OF selection and preparation all goes TO
the completion OF gown" or costume"
that is sd quiet. so free from entation, that it
would only attract attention from its neatneSS
and harmony.
This admirable quality, this beauty of parts.
this peF,ection oi finish Is not to be condemn -
for the desire and Willingness 10 pay for thee
things furnish the stimulus TO skill, enterprise
and the development oi taste. Eut the beauti-
,ui thing should be kindly and Hospitality en-
tertsned and taken care OF. II should not be
put To common Use. as 10 must be If the same
methods. the same cost the same unfitness Tor
actual service distinguishes all the clothing of
wosaan-
Naturally. the cottons lined with silk are not
ordinary prints. ginghams or even canbrics
they are embroidered muslins and cheese
cloths, Madras muslinS and lace-like tissues or
neLs; tinted and printed in delicate designs
and biendid coIors; 80 that made and trimmed
with lace and ribbons over foundation of
cream ar pink or heiiotrope silk they more
effective sor fete dresses than silk itself and
more suggestive OF the varied beauty and
brightness OF the summer. IL Is true that the
soft silk. used for lining make charming
dresses of themselves and are largely used Tor
this puI pOse but transparent effects; and
dainty material upon another. forming mir
roT through whie Ia the other may look and be
Seen, Is the fashion OF the day, and "A very
charming one ior those who can afford it.
SIMPLE SUMNER STYLES.
There are plenty or pretty things, however,
The choice within certain Iimits-which the
accepted styles of d season prescribe-is almost
Infinitely varied; and solid materials OF good
quality are 50 comparatively low that an ex-
wardrobe may provide an ample ouIfit at small
cost. Figures in summer materials are retained
in thin fabrics. but in woods and thick cotIons
they have largely given place 10 stripes; and eff
feets are produced by combination, by contrast,
by subtle harmonies and blending OF color
Rather than Dy the introduction oil something
totally distinct an trimming or applied finish.
the cheap and coarse white laces which had
become literally common as dirt have di,aI.
peared from the satines and other cotton cos
TUNES; and "A simple hem, French fold or lace
ike embroidery in the snsides of the material
open work, which created "A revolution in white
dresses when they made their appearance q
colorS, pale pink. grey blue, lilac. stone grey
and others, the embroidery done in white or
another shade OF the ground color. THIS en-
large> the range OF lovely class of summer
fabrics, which are not expensive but very eff
fectiSe and do not require the silk lining con-
sidered necessary Tor open worked wooIs
The simplest designs suit best these open
worked cottons, which are so we'll adapted to
slender young figures. and are always accom-
panied by the full belted bodice; aud this sea-
sou. often by straight sleeve, slightly iuled IN
al the top and Into a deep cuff which buttons
Retired into tine background. Ii is still EN-
pioyed TOR children, for slender young misses
and 10Y dressins.room gowns: but the short
lived craze Tor Mother HuobardS'' brought
such discredit upon them that even children
consider themselves misrepresenIed by il. The
" Mother Hubbard as USED ior street dress WAS
the result vi ignorance and a blind following OF
what WAS supposed 10 be fashion, irresp ectiys
Oh fitness. lIe - Mother Hubbard is only Mt
Iof the CreSslus-room. II Is too negtiQee even
Tor breakfast gown, excepting in climates
where the tropical heat excuses d degree OF IN
formaiiI. in home attire Inch in our colder
climate would argue inexcusable earelessness
or want OF seiI-respect. y Mother Hubbard"
Is neither more nor less than a loose yoked
nigEigown. Because IL = made il coiured cot
ton or wool doe, not render IL "A lit garment Tor
the street, or even Tor the family circle IL is
dressing rOom wrapper in which "a lady might
be Seen by ner family without iIupropriety mi
which size would not deliberately wear even as
house dfe.s an which sue might be seen by
otEersl excepting ia case OF Illness and tempo
gary release from conventional standard.
REyIvA. OF THE NORFOLK
The present summer sly les revive the plated
bodice called the Norfolk and the gathered
bodlcs (irom the shoulder and the surplice
waist or "cross-over." Cottoas are usually
made up full ia the waist; WOODS, plain, or II
flannel, plated. The skirts are slr.,irht
pls,ited or gathered full at the back and with !.
snort, simple 0rapsry acrOsj the front or folded
al tAe sides. The princess polonaise is revived.
forming a draped apron ana iuiI deep vest in
front, which may be gathered or plated and of
Tie saline or a contrasting material. lie f.ure
combinations have, however, largely oisap-
peared- acre "a Contrast Is used il is OF sulid
Color covered With Lace or obtained from an orns.-
frsenIaI stripe which accompanies the body part
OF Tie fabric Ior trimming and com uiualiou
purposes
Inc iuIlness Of the surpiice waist comes from
The shoulders, not IruIn The neck, and is car
rled ifOn re lat To lett, wing diagonal effect
anu terminating In q lew shirts at the waist
Line, "Aich IA held by a broad belt. Gathered
AMI plated fronts OF vests, outlined by fiat
beaaed or embroidered trimming, are as popu-
lar - ever, aud suit Il richer and more conyeu-
tloilI Class Oh fabrics than are ploy ed Tor the
NoTsoik blouse or The gathered bodice. But
There Is little that Is novel in the making OF
ordinary summer gowns. The effort seems 10
have been In the direction OF collecting and
Retaining The best models OF the past several
years ratne- than creating new ones.
MACHINE EMBRoIDE.Y
Modern Developments liz machine embroidery
have done wonders with white muslin: have
restored its prestige and placed H. in its differ
ent degrees Vi lawn and jaconett, nainsook and
SWISS up To India null. among the most avail
able oi summer dress resources. In It's yarIous-
slAstIo OF tnIchness and IniaIness, fiueueSs ana,
cOarSeness, covered more or less with work as
eNq1is.-3 looking as though executed by Pene-
and her L Llrm