Morning journal and courier., 1886-02-03

Stout persons, however, have suffered much from this particular fashion, and they will no doubt rejoice over the prospect of re- | turn to fine textures, which can be made to
 sit SO perfectly that they do not add to the dimensions ot the figure.
 Black toilets are now made for young la dies even. One of them is of faille. The skirt has no trimming and falls in natural plaits. The unique of black Scotch cache mire forms long apron in front. The silk | skirt is left uncovered on the right side. The
 back is puffed. In the open space between
 the puffing and apron is drapery which covers the hip on the upper part and is very | narrow below. It is trimmed side with narrow shellshaped plating lined
 with faille. The waist is of Scotch cache
 mire. The front has no darts and it opens
 over closely plaited faille plastron. The fullness of the front is taken in on the lower part of the waist to form two straight plaits fastened under jet clasp The back is very tight fitting and terminates with three flaps
 of the goods. The border of the waist and the flaps are trimmed with 8 jet cording The faille collar also has jet beads. The tight sleeves have faille cuffs cut in flaps and bordered with beads.
 Another black toilet is of very fine quail ity of French faille. The skirt forms large plait in front, while on either side is quille of fancy velvet. Down the sides of the vel
 vet and following the designs thereupon are the finest jet beads. These beads also fall in
 punches from the ceuters of the flowers and add greatly to the effect of this otherwise rather sombre dress.
 Redingotes are much liked. A very new | model is of 'Felephant" cloth lined with Scotch satin. This satin has an old gold ground and many -colored stripes. The front of the garment is straight without any darts. It buttons over from the left shoulder to the | waist. The back is short and forms sharp point, which falls among the gathers of the skirt. The large collar is straight The
 straight sleeves cut up on the lower part
 and have large cuffs. Two bias pockets are on either side of the garment. By cutting l tine sleeves as described above the redingote
 is taken off and put on as easily visite. | The straight fronts crossed in double breast l ed style are very suitable for stout figures as they have narrowing effect.
 Parisian dinner dresses are elegant as ever. For very ceremonious dinners long trains are again in wear. These are round or square, Sometimes the train terminates | in three sharp points, the central one being longer than the two side points. Waists are also cut in many ways. They are sometimes pointed on the upper part they form two bretelles fastened to a low "corselet" The
 upper part of the waist often consists of a chemisette of lace of gauge, which either covers the whole neck or is partly open.
 Lace scarfs are draped over the folds of silk or velvet skirts.
 Waists pointed in front and round in the
 back are still made, but narrow and short
 positions are preferred to them When waists are pointed in front and rounded in the back they have usually a ''moyen age"
 scarf of flowers or embroidered fabrics. A very novel style for high-neeked dress is of dark fire red plush. The collar is worked with fire-red and opal beads. Droop- ing ornaments of the same beads are around the collar and form a kind of necklace. The front pieces of the waist are cut long enough to reach to the center of the skirt. They are turned up in the loops lined with pink fallle
 and fastened to the pufing. Dropping orna-
 ments depend from the trimming. The
 plush sleeves reach to the elbow, but the up
 per part is twice this length and is lined
 with pink faille. It is taken up to the
 shoulder and fastened there under an epau-
 let of passementerie in open work. The ep-
 aulet has dropping ornaments of fire and
 opal beads. The skirt for wear with this
 waist is of faille of the same color, worked
 with beads and velvet applique designs. The
 front of the apron is embroidered wholly in
 this manner Down either side of the apron
 is a redingote skirt of reddish lace. This
 lace is also draped around the back pulling.
 Fur trimmings no longer on the bor-
 ders of garments only, but are now taken
 down the fronts of the redingotes or visites and terminate in two long ends. Two other bands fastened near the back pulling under a
 passementerie ornament also have two ends. This way of trimming is only used for hand some furs such as sable or blue fox.
 There are many very pretty visiting and theater bonnets now made Young girls
 have adopted for theater wear the Hungarian turban hat. It may be in a variety of
 shapes, but the trimming always consists of a velvet drapery and fancy bird. The model described below, with very high
 crown, is suitable for young girl from if. :. teen to sixteen years of age. The manner of wearing the turban depends on the fancy Of the wearer and on the way in which the hair is dressed. If the latter is crmped the tur ban is more becoming when placed rather
 back on the head If the hair falls straight
 and flat it is best to wear the turban over the
 forehead. The velvet drapery is taken full
 over the high crown. Around the brim is 3
 narrow band of fur, and on one side is a
 large stiff feather and birds head. Among the new Parisian evening capotes the three following styles are most worthy of men l ton: One is baby shape, of light pink em- broidered tulle, fulled in the crown and forming a large pulling around the raised brim. This is trimmed with double row
 of cut jet beads about the size of a small | nut. These beads are also arranged in | punches on the putting. This bonnet has besides @ number of pink satin bows, which
 are placed in aigrette style in front Anoth- CT bonnet is covered with roses stripped of their leaves. These form ground of petals with part of the leaves adhering to them here and there. On either side of the bon
 net are two tulle wings, like Mercury's wings,
 embroidered with pearl beads. They are joined on the top of the hat. This style has
 a great stamp of originality and is very easi- ly copied The ''Theodora" capote is the
 latest Parisan novelty. It has small bail
 crown of silk plush and two revers, which
 fall from the brim over the crown. These
 revers are also of plush The bonnet bears
 diadem of amber beads and light fancy
 bird. Small capotes have very high trim
 mings on one side. The favored colors for
 these articles are black, blown, amber and
 the shades of red such as brick, fire and
 Spanish wine color. Jet is still in very gen.
 eral favor It is combined with all materi
 als and colors. Draperies and bows are of
 Bulgarian embroidery in fine gold on velvet,
 crane or etamiue