The Bolivar bulletin. [volume] (Bolivar, Hardeman County, Tenn.) 1865-1888, 1886-04-02
LIE FAsHfoNs.
Desirable Change In the Combination OF
Dress Materials.


Dress Materials.
Striped goods are used crosswise and
lengthwise. The combination of both
is frequently resorted to. A suit made
in this way may have the skirt striped
crosswise, while one side of the unique
is bias and the other straight. The
front of the waist, which generally
consists of plastrOn or forms vest,
may have vertical, horizontal or dag
onal stripes. This fashion of stripes
naturally extends to all kinds of gall
loon. There is cachemire GALLON and
galloOn worked in shaded stripes or
embroidered with beads.
Some change is apparent in the COM
bination of materials. Instead of two
fabrics being employed, one for the
skirt and the other for the unique, the
goods are disposed in the following
manner: For instance, a dress of
plain moss-green wooden stuff and
striped velvet of the same color but of
q darker shade has a skirt of the plain
goods. The remainder of the suit is of
the wooden material with stripes of
velvet sewed to it in all widths accord
ing to the arrangement of the trimming.
These stripes are all cut from the vel
vet, and sewed on with such fine
stitches that the wooden goods has the
effect of being partly plain and partly
striped. Some very effective cOmbina-
tons are thus made, particularly with
draperies, as, the stripes being sewed
on; there Is no trouble with the goods
turning on the wrong side. This same
principle may be resorted to for dresses
trimmed with embroidery. These
have the effect of being worked on the
material, with the embroidered design
following every line of the drapery.
This fashion has also made a change in
the use of the sewing machine, as
where formerly machine-made en-
broidery and lace were used exclusively,
now much of the work on dresses must
be done by hand. The tissues are
joined to appear like one piece of
goods, and the embroidery is applique
and worked over in the most careful
way.
Many materials in black and white
are used, particularly for walking
dresses. One of them is of rough
goods in iron gray, striped with tiny
threads of white silk. The skirt has
the stripes crosswise, and is arranged
in large round plaits. The tunique is
draped high toward to back of the left
hip, and falls in a full and long apron.
The waist is tight-fitting in the back
and has round basque. In front is a
wide plastrOn, which turns over near
the neck in revers shape. An addi-
tiOnal piece in front forms a vest, and
is also taken back in revers shape. In
the open space between the revers is a
chemisette of cream-colored surah
This buttons like a mans shirt. Many
black outer garments are also seen.
Very pretty jackets and even large
redingOtes are of curIed vigogne.
They are lined with a light quality of
grayish plaid silk. For very Slight fig
ures there is generally added to one of
these garments a "Cordelier" hood,
which is pointed and reaches to the
waist. This is also lined with silk.
Plated skirts in tailor styles are still
much worn in Paris. The tuniques
over these form aprons either with
shawl points or rounded on the lower
part. In the back is a putting slightly
draped and fastened to the skirt at the
waist in many plaits. The tight fitting
waist has a small amazon basque and
small flaps. The sleeves are still mar
row and the collar is very high.-N =.
Times