The Bolivar bulletin. [volume] (Bolivar, Hardeman County, Tenn.) 1865-1888, 1886-11-12
NEW YORK fashions.
The Various Materials Used for Fashion.
able Short Winter ClOaks.


able Short Winter ClOaks.
The dressy outer garments for win
ter are short cloaks covering the waist
and arms well, but leaving the skirts
of the costume in full view. Now that
heavy fabrics, either of wool or of vel
vet, are chosen for street dresses, it is
considered that sufficient warmth is
given to the lower parts of the body by
the skirts and Undertaking, and that
extra wrapping is only needed above
the waist. These short, warmly
wadded cloaks, are made of velvet, of
plush, and of new cloths of various
kinds. Velvetis the choicest material,
and will be worn in black, brown,
green, red or blue, as best suits the
various dresses which it is to complete.
Beaded passementeries the color of
the velvet, and in designs following the
outline of the garment rather than in
straight borders, will be fashionable
trimmings. For instance, the edge of
the cloak is cut in points all around,
and each point is filed with beading,
from which ascends a vine of the trim
ming, graduating narrower toward the
neck, and giving the effect of stripes;
tassels of jet then hang from each
point Other beaded ornaments are
three in a set for the front and back of
the garment. being shaped to cover
the shoulders and taper toward the
waist line, while special ornaments
are made for each of the long square
or pointed ends in front. When
fringes of jet or chenille are used they
are often of great depth, and like the
Cpf01T9tp6 To finish off
the different parts, perhaps to dr0op
from the front and sleeves only, or else
in the back on the tournure, and not
on the sleeves. forming finally a great
tassel at the end of each pointed front
Sometimes a shoulder cape effect is
made of deep fringe that has long
strands of beads beginning at the
shoulders. Fur or feather trimmings are
chosen for borders, but the fancy for
lengthwise and striped ornaments is also
seen in these, as there are tabs of col
ored ostrich feathers attached to the
ends of rich garments, and the tail fur
trimmings like fringe will be more
used than at any previous season.
High collars and bands of feathers or
of fur are so becoming and so warm
that they are on almost all wraps.
In shape the new garments are all
short on the tournure, fitting snugly in
the back with a belt underneath to
hold them in place. Variety is given
by the fronts. which may be long,
square-cornered, pointed, or else quite
short, yet longer than the back. The
sides are also most varied, being
rounded smoothly over the shoulders
not full and Highland forming either
wide square sleeves, close elbow
sleeves, sling sleeves, dOlman points,
or else regular coat sleeves that are
warmer than the loose sleeves, but are
not nearly so graceful. The entire
garment may be of the plain velvet or
plush, or it may be of striped velvet,
or plush stripes alternating with bead
ed stripes, but in most cases the sleeves
are different from the fronts and back,
especially for wraps to be worn with
costumes of two materials. Some of
the richest garments have the side and
sleeves covered with embroidery either
of silk in India cashmere colOring on
cOlored materials, or else of black on
black, on blue, on red, or brown, or it
may be of self-colOred beading. The
silks for the lining are striped, or else
changeable, or checked, or barred
surah, softly wadded and very slightly
quilted, usually in parallel diagonal
lines. Thread lace in frills and in
iabots down the front is used in COM
binatiOn with the heaviest furs and
ostrich feather trimmings, whether
these are in bands or in hanging tabs.
The chenille fringes are sleek, and are
tipped at the end of each strand either
with Jet or with satin-cOycred balls
HnyDpy,'S ROznT