Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1886-10-09
HEADGEAR FOR WOMEN.
AN IMPORrAHr FEMININE zorro
FRssnLY AND OLkvhkLY TREATED.
rhs Bonmets That tho Fair should Wear In
order 10 MAhe themselves Too Lovely tor
Anything -Mouschoid Recipes That
VIII ESQ Found Useful

largo chApeau OF velvet, with turned.up brlm
trimmed IN all colors with long ostrich
feathers twisted together and falling down ut
the back, comes first then there is the pretty,
plainly trimmed felt hat with plain Hat edge
Such velvet hats are often turned up suddenly
just In the middle Of the front, and others
are put toward the back, or . little
on one side. Felt shapes. like toques,
are set Irm and low over tho fore
head. Three forms dispute the palm,
and these are : The Spanish, composed OF q
straight brim and square crown, ana .s tne
helmet this resembling what tho French
term 'le casque do voyage" at tho back ana
looking like high coitiure Ia front Ihose
ladies' " no cannot wear round hats must Con.
tent themselves with the new ponhet Anu Anu
capote shapes, which continue 10 TO q littie
high That IL 10 say, either in shape or trim
ming. Tho prettiest ornainentaton Is com
posed Of tiny birds with outstretched wings
Round Hnts--There IL such variety In
round hats that many young ladies' Will use
them altogether, abandoning the more ma
tronly looking bonnets For morning wear
the English turban Is worn. They are OF
felt with the brim rolled high and nearly
covered by binding OF braid, or OF ropped
ribbon, while the hali.high crown has three
miliiner's folds of plain velvet around II, and
in front high loops Of beaded vel vet or striped
plush, with wing, birds, aigrettes, or POM
pons set In the loops Instead of ielt this
toque may be made of the dress material and
trimmed to correspond. More dressy toques
may be made OF velvet, either plain or beaded
or In hair line stripes.
Small Bonnets. The small capote remains
the fAvorite shape for autumn and winter
bonnets, but has various notifications, some
OF which are so decided m to become new
features. For instance, the brim IL more
haring at the top, showing velvet lining OF
contrasting color, or else 1t Is cleft aud ono
side is strapped back with ribbons, or IL may
have q band of velvet across inside to rest on
tho hair, or there may be an inside trimming
OF ostrich feathers with pompons of cut
ostrich outside the brim, or finally, there
may be soft loops OF ribbon falling over the
front edge from the outside. The melon
crown is a novelty, whether made Of velvet
folds aud rows OF beads extending outward
from the centre, or else with the different
sections merely outlined by narrow beading
To represent the entire end OF tho melon. The
fronts Of brims have less pnfing than WAS
used last winter, but have smooth coronets or
lengthwise folds OF velvet clustered carelessly
rather than in prim rows and above all else
the edge IL covered with beaded galloon, with
very large beads in heavy designs often in
pendants.
: The trimming is very high, and Is as mar
row and rs far forward IA the face of the
wearer will permit All kinds of new bows
are used for this high trimming, the object
of each milliner to contrive to tie the oldest
and most fanciiul loops together.
Some fancy feathers, especially white
wings, white breasts, or bits'of white ostrich
are massed In the bows, while very costly
bonnets have the tail feathers of the bird-of-
paradise curied closely In the bows instead OF
projecting their whole length.
Strings OF picot ribbons ON most bon
nets, though many ladies refuse to abandon
the becoming velvet bride that has been
worn Tor some time This bow will TO re-
tanned tor felt or cloth bonnets, and will DO
larger than the slender bow now worn IL
has two loops and pointed end of velvet ON
each side, or Is irregularly fashioned with
two loops on the right side and only one
nfr m Inf dnNtB, Ia. NJ ,,t,,
Is also worn, one pair being OF velvet
the other: OF gros grain In narrow
inch-wide ribbons. Plain felt bonnets are
chosen by the color Of the wooen suit with
covered with the new woolen beads. They
are trimmed very high In front, with
pompons of ostrich feathers set high up on
stems in the bow. For those whose com.
piexion requires something brighter than
these duh wooden beads there are galoons OF
dark iridescent beads in different colors. To
mako the ribbon loops high in front, and
keep them from bending in the wind, ribbon
wire II put between the ribbon making the
compact bow now in vogue.
Fancies.
Beige color is particularly favored for
India tissues.
new style of waist opens over several
vests
Pelerines will soon again be necessary
Many fancy garments for autumn use will
be OF blue velvet
For autumn wear there are mantes of plain
velvet and the various styles of jacket.
Demiseason garments are to be PLAIN and
in the long redingote shape.
Shawl dresses are among the novelties sent
out by French tailors.
Very high coifiures are worn, arranged in
soft small coils on the crown.
Jetted galloon with straight edges and sep.
arste ornaments trim black silk dresses styl-
ishly.
Plush trimmings will enter into nearly all
the costumes for winter.
Flat gilt buttons, about as large as the tip
OF lady's finger, are seen on new kid
gloves.
Colored silk umbrellas with fine sticks and
silver handles promise to find favor.
Three broad stitchings on the back and
four large buttons fastening the wrist are the
stylish features OF autumn gloves.
Faills Francaise Is still very popular. A
handsome dinner dress lately noted among
a number OF important toilettes, was made OF
black faille and black silk guipure lace.
Black kid gloves promise to be In very
general use for even the most dressy toilettes.
They are without ornament save plain stitch
ing, are long and in mousquetaire style.
Among the popular styles in folding fans
are those made Of gauze mounted on ivory or
wood sticks. A special novelty In japanese
iolding fans Ii shown In painted crepe.
Bracelets are shown in great variety and in
some unique and elegant styles. Ali strictly
fashionable bracelets are either In narrow
flexible bands or hoops of slender wire.
There are no broad bands seen, as the gen
eral effect seems to be light and delicate
rather than strong or durable,
Recipes.
Grape Jely.-Strip from their stems some
fine ripe black cluster grapes, and stir them
with q wooden spoon over a gentle fire until
all have burst and the juice flows freely
from them strain 1t of without pressure,
and pass it through jelly bag or through
twice folded muslin weigh and then boil 1t
rapidly for twenty minutes; draw it from the
fire. stir In 1t until dissolved fourteen ounces
Of roughly powdered sugar to each pound OF
juice and boil the jelly quickly for fifteen
minutes longer, stirring 1t constantly and
keeping 1t well skinned. 1t will be very
clear and OF beautiful pale rose-color.
Ounce and Apple Jelly-Cut small and
core an equal weight OF tart apples and
ounces put the ounces in preserving kst-
tie with water to cover them, and boil till
soft add the apples, still keeping water to
cover them, and boil until the W hole is nearly
q pulp; put into a jelly bag and strain with
out pressing.
Ounce Marmalade.- Gather the fruit when
quite ripe pare, quarter and core II boil
the skins in water, measuring a teacupful
to a DOunH Of frnit wi har