Morning journal and courier., 1886-02-05

you Ike to JC1n me III a IeaSt oI Drolieu eels: It is said that this month the unagi is a fit 1 morsel for the gods" I replied, with somewhat dubious shake of the head, 1T never was very fond of those marine snakes. :" Probably you have never tasted them prepared by my countrymen," he slyly re- turned. 'I remember once eating some at Delmonico's {shuddering). They were soft, favorless morsels, enclosed in quiverlng jelly. Come along with me-"
 ''Are the cells good to-daya" patronizingly inquired my friend of the proprietor. '.I have heard that their flavor is not quite what 1t used to be. Do you procure them from the city canals, they from the Sumlda river?" The proprietor bowed, then twltched the left corner of his mouth, after the fashion of a Japanese uttering joke, and answered: Honorable sir, do you for moment imagine I should offer canal-bred eels to such judge as yourself2 No, no! you know that I have high reputation and buy noth- ing but the most beautiful cells that come from the Sumida Remembering that the time was near for you to pay us visit, l have saved some of the finest fish you ever saw Would you like to come into the kitch- en and inspect them?"
 'Hai,' gently added his wife, who had listened to his speech with downcast eyes, 'sthat is so. We have some eels fit for daimio."
 s:What do you say?' inquired my compan- ion "Would you like to visit the culinary departments"
 Mot until I have dined,' I answered sniff fng suspiciously at the faint odor of pickled radish that issued from department The waitress quickly appeared with some trays containing square, black, lacquered boxes, bearing the signs of the house and number. Placing one before each of us, she
 removed the tightly fitting lids and revealed the contents, which were sections of nicely
 o1- f0 yether that gave out most appetizing odor. The girl smiled as she watched my looks,
 and replenishirg my saucer, placed it near me, murmuring
 q think you will find the unagi very pleas ing to your taste."
 serted the points in the fish, broke off nor sel and ate. Ye gods! It was delicious! rich, tender, delicately favored and bonei.ss! I drew my box toward me, nodded approv ingly at the attendant, and enjoyed the de- iectable food. The smiling girl brought in box after box, the contents of each being nicer than the last. I have partaken of fried oysters at home, broiled fish in all countries and the delicacies of every cline, but have never more thoroughly enjoyed any dish than I did those cells. At last I laid down my chopsticks, and, glancing at my friend, exclaimed;
 ''You were right in saying that this is a dish for the gods. We ought to introduce it at home." The waitress bowed in acknowl- edgment of my praise, and inquired if we would like to eat some rice.
 "Yes,' nodded my companion. "I think I could empty a bowl or two." Away went the girl, who, after a brief delay, returned bearing a large tray which was a covered wooden tub, containing hot rice, two lac quered bowls, teapot and some tiny cups. 1 contriyed to eat one portion of the delici5
 ous, well-cooked cereal, then lighted my pipe
 and watched my friend, who had his bowl
 refilled dozen times, and moistened his food
 by saturating it with tea.
 ''How do you contrive to render the skins
 of the fish so tender?' asked the girl.
 q do not know" she answered, glancing
 timidl. at the mats. ''The cooks never per
 init us to learn their secrets. If you like to
 visit the kitchen they will no doubt explain
 everything to you"
 "Now for the bill" said my companion,
 refilling his pipe "Altogether, you have
 given very tolerable meal" In few
 moments she came back, carrying small
 scoop-like tray, in which was placed slip of
 paper containing reckoning. This she
 pushed along the mat toward him: she then bowed and remained with her face close to the floor, while he minutely scrutinized the document. Taking his purse from his sleeve he dropped some paper money into the tray, and remarked ill a low tone:
 ''You may keep the change" QO cents) His munifcence almost overpowered the waitress, who bowed repeatedly, and grate- fully murrnurod: 4eIour> generosity resem bles that of foreigner. Anyone can see that you have travelled" After we had smoked awhile he asked whether l would like to visit the kitchen, and on my replying in the affirmative, summoned the 1andlady, who said: ''You honor us too greatly. My husband shall show you how we prepare th9 eels" We rose, quilted the room and de- scending the ladder-like stairway, the steps of which were polished smooth as glass, slip ped on our foot-covelings and entered the kitchen. On the hard earthen floor rows of little charcoal furnaces provided with iron rods that served rests for the skewered cells. Maroki, whose only failing was a weakness for lowing and politely suck ing in his breath between his speeches, led the way and was exceedingly attentive. Pointing to range of tubs containing fine specimens of fish, he remarked: ''These were caught this morning: they are the most expensive fish in the Nippon Bashi market. Are they not worth looking ats'
 ''How do you contrive to so completely extract their bones!" I demanded. "Our cooks cannot accomplish that fact" Mo tioning lightly-clad servant to approach him, he said
 E'Some customers have just come in. Prepare eel in the presence of these gen. tlemen." The man, who evidently took great
  squirming fish, struck it's head smartly upon q wooden block placed upon the floor, and kneeling by 1t grasped the creature's neck, inserted knife in the left side of the verte bree and dexterously ran it down to the tail; then rapidly applied his instrument to the other side of the backbone and repeated the process leaving the eel split open. Holding up the head to which were attached the yer tebre and lateral bones inclosing the intes- tines, he bowed and said:
 ''There is net splinter left in the fish," 'That is so," proudly remarked the pro prietor q only employ the most skillful
 men and cooks" The operator washed down the block, chopped the fattened eel into three-inch lengths and shouted to cook, who advanced to remove it on dish. The next process was mysterious one and
 WAS performed behind a screen, from whence the platter of eels was presently handed out to one of the broilers. My opinion is that the fish had simply been plunged into boiling water to make the skins tender. We advanced to range and saw a cook skewering the pieces of eel on long bamboo splints. Then he placed them on the rods over the glowing coals, and when one side
 was Drowned dexterously picked them up
 with q pair of iron chopsticks and turned
 them. After they were thoroughly cooked
 he seized tLe fish with the same instrument
 and plunged it into vessel containing old
 shoyu, which was thick and dark as molass-
 es The steaming unagi was then drained,
 placed in a lacquer box and sent up stairs to
 the customer
 Pigs Feet.
 MUTTON MARKET, sream cooked. ready for
 kN use. Orders received each week till Tuesday
 dt ITO Chapel Street