Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1886-05-13
OUR NEW YORK LETTER.
ROs1LIND 1I1Y'S TALK ABOUr
THE FASHIONS.
Tho Rage for JeG btber Trimmings
Dudes ANA Tbrir smits,srs
White COsru.nc.- = E.accs-- r,ub.ai.i-
cries.


= Special Correspondence of tiGzette ana iauriial
? New YoRK, May 3. 10 say that there
% is rage for jet is hut family to express
" it. All former RACES dwiudle into insig-
e nifieance beside the present ont. and
!. really some word should be invented to
d picture positive insanity on the subject.
# The ultra fashionable looks indeed auita.
/. like subject" So beladen as to iIiove
Il with difficulty yet consciously happy ia
proportion to her burdens. Net-works
q OF jet afford complete waist coyerines.
l. and over such curiass, repeated strings
q OF large jet beads may be suspended
@ about the neck, but independent let orna
r inents are very stylish, while JET passe-
f nenteries divide favor with grenndine
/ bands closely covered with small let
: pendants. Corded passementeries are
I fashionable, either with or without let
+ and the passementerie drops ira
! still very much liked, either
placed singly or as additions
, to phssementerie ornaments. Grenadines
, appear with closely covering figures COM
. posed of jet and MS an outcome, ara
grenadines where c'lnel beads iulSA is,r
place of jet. The entire surface il thus
llluhiined, and these sparkling grtia
dimes are popular for short wrai,s or
parts of DR., s,es. Many new siik nnd
some few WOOL costumes hrs trimmed l,y
jet or colored bead patterns sewn Oh d.,
goods-perhaps the entire front, snie
panels, &c. Large beads ret ,,n the ,d..,,
of skirt drapery, outlining n. bhfdsc.
color, cuhs, &c., are quite new idea and
rs being new, will doubtless he much IN
vogue. Chenille is seen again, but Hat
and combined with jet or beads Wooden
| hnadu atiI l.,,k l..
Galloons are ornamented by let, colored
glass or wooden beads both large and
small. One might pronounce society in
sane on the subject of
BUTTONS,
not so many but so large, elaborately
decorated in proportion TO size and the
size 30 conspicuous that gentleman--of
average Ignorance it is true-said the
other day "She carries her dinner ser.
vice around with her." Fully as large as
individual butter plates, the resources of
art have been taxed both in material and
workmanship. Pearl is variously colored
or mixed with metal. Metal is curiously
wrought; wood is colored, carved and
| sometimes mixed with metal, while on all
there often is addition of painting which
produces pretty pictures. Moonlight
scenes are frequent, and the romance Of
a cavalier breathing VOWS among flowers
beneath lady's window, is not
TOO poetlcal for an age of
railroads. The handsomest styles monnt
up extrayagantly even to 1926 apiece, but
something very nice can be had for freia -
81 to $3. One or two buttons at times
do duty at the throat as clasp to the
extravagantly high collar, but the general
use is on skirts and jackets. There are
small buttons to match but they do not
take" readily, especially as it is admis-
sable to close the waist by small GRO
cheted button usually in ball shape.
though fiat ones are chosen or ought to
be, by stout people. Conspicuous but
tons are manifestly unsuitable to cotton
goods, for which small pearl buttons often
in ball style are most fashionable.
Almost all kinds are this year with shank.
Mannish buttons give particular oppor-
tunity to a certain class of young ladies
who seem to desire above all things 10
look mannish. They and the dudes are
having race, the chosen equip
ments being short coats, high hats, high
collars above all, and a certain bracing
of the shoulders and conscious ''look-at
me" air. Walking canes and trousers af-
ford the young men advantage, but the
fair iInitator forgets a good deal of her
hustle in the contest, puts on straight
hanging skirts and handles her
long handled parasol as if il
were cane. There are some
special new styles in gentlemen's drsss
and dudes apart Every family should be
provided with the spring fashion plate
issued by Hackett, Carhart & Co., the
well-known clothiers, Canal street and
Broadway, filled as it is with the latest
Information regarding material, shapes
and prices of mems and boys clothing.
illustrations abound, and as samples Of
material are sent, one can shop as if ON
the spot. The firm manufacture them
selves, which accounts for low figures
while the thorough examination to which
every garment is subjected, together with
long established reputation, guarantees
reliability in all particulars.
WHITE COSTUMES.
Velvets, while in themselves often Gu
rious mixtures, are also wonderfully mixed
in with white costumes. White wool is
in no other way SO stylishly relieved as
by finishings of velvet, and if lace be
added the picture becomes complete.
Colored velvet plays large part in such
adornments, and one may imagine the
unique and really tasteful effect of white \
wool with collarette, cuffs, sash and per-
haps some loopings or panel of colored
velvet, such as pink, blue, olive, moss,
&c., edged by lace. Black velvet is fash
ionnble for like purposes, but objected to
by some, MS rather staring, though the
cream shadings of many white goods and
lace us we'll, go far in toning down
sueh objection. An employment of
mixed or fancy yelSets gives fur
ther variety, while the union of
velvet with cotton goods, whether
white or coloIed, opens the way to illimit-
t.lI In oh. Aa e..
unitings with white material, come Surah
and twilled silk lace being frequently
added. French nainsook is fashionable,
but embroidery is so much in request
that it almost supersedes plain fabric,
well-nigh universally in flouncings of
greater or less depth, the deepest reach
ing the entire length of the skirt with
patterns graduating in size up to the
waist. Embroidery set in stripes is,
however, particularly liked aud nus
both ways Of the goods. Iace is ut times
united with this all-pervading embroidery
and with excellent effect.
RIBBONS
of all kinds aud set ON in all manner of
ways are an important factor in white
costumes. No description OF their use
can be exaggerated, because exaggeration
cannot exceed truth. Embroidery is
noticeable in thin goods other than white.
Dress patterns put up in boxes are seen
everywhere, and usually of contrasting
color, so that in the way of finishing on
cottons, embroidery and lace can be set
down MS the two garnitures of the day,
ribbons and velvet being accessories.
Ribbon sashes Indeed while n notable ad-
dition to white dresses are perhaps more
noticeable with colored because the
idea has more novelty. Sateen, ba-
tiste, canvas or seersucker are relieved
by ribbon sash of contrasting color
such as red on blue, pale blue on garnet,
brown on pink and the like. Lovely
evening dresses of China Grape are
adorned by Japanese embroidery, where
rich patterns show gold color throughout
or where rich contrasts have not always
regard to nature, as blue roses attended
by yellow leaves and the like. Gold
thread embroidery ilhmines white China
Grape, aud there come bands of Japanese
embroidery in floss silk on a short length
of China Grape which is combined with
costumes of other fabric.
Rnu.rr,s,, Nv