New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-11-15
The GASTRONOMiC VALUE OF DOORS.
From The Contemporary RerieU.

The magic and value of gastronomic odors lies In
this that they stimulate the flow OF saliva ana other
aimentary juices, thus making sure tnat tne io1u
eaten will be tn oronghly utilized in renovatng the
system.
plains the French saying that the appetite comes whe
eating as we'll our habit OF reserving eweetmeats
nuts cheese etc. for the end OF meal, when rich
odors needed to oraoe up, the tagging appeute,
So great aud salubrous the effect OF gastr0nomc
odors in stimulating all the glands and functions OF
the body that dinner of savory, fragrant courses
may produce in the diner feeling OF warmth ana en-
haration resembling the effects OF wine but VIII
none OF the depressing afterefecs following excessive
indulgence In that liquor. And thus 1t comes about
that the epicure search of gnoble pleasure md. II
the of health and OF general contentment Win
the world. .
epicures must D. corrected in this place. One Is that
thew incline to gluttony and intemDerdnce. But true
epcure would more dream OF taking away the sharp
edge of future appetite by oyer-lnduigence tnan
barber would of opening q tin can With razor tie
Weighs pleasures and pains too nicely TO De c'ugnt
in such vices Another is that epcure always needs
choicest d-cacies to stimulate bis appetite On
the contrary the art OF epcurisTn consists IN the
ability to get pleasure out OF the most commonplace
art,clel of food. by preparing and eatns them
nron.rlv OF course the epcufe prefers Chambertin
10 aeon and canvas back duck TO roast goose ior
the same that he prefers the fragrance OF
wood violet to that of a coarse hothonse Hover but
on the other hand. ne alone knows wat an Oriehtai
rose garden of magic perfumes may be found IN tne
simplest crust OF whole-neal or Graham orean anu
butter though ordinary mort als may easily convince
themselves OF their existence by eating slice ana al
lowing the exhrd air pass slowly through the nose
From an oactory point OF view, II seems, agreeable
ailments may be divided into two classes those which
are more fragrant externally and those which develop
superior odors after they crushed by the teeth OF
tonone trawberries apples, peaches. have a more
refined and flo wer like fragrance before they are put
in the mouth than after Cheeses on the other hand
are NOT generally rcgarde ed "a fragrant until they
being eaten The odor OF Limburger is insupporable
TO many who after they have once courageousiy
Struggled it past the nasal fortress. find II very appe
tzing and good But the curious illustration be-
tween exoteric and esoerc doors TO speak Is the
tropical fruit called the duron. Externally 1t
resembles Lin urger in having an intensely disagree
able odor but during masticaton it yields watts Of
flavor that cali to mind cream cheese, onion sauce
brown sherry. and other inoongrutes. according to
Mr. A r. Wallace who adds that the more you cat
of it, the less you feel inclined to stop; in TACT to eat
durions sensation worth voyage to the East
to experience" The disagreeabe external odor is IN
this case evidently allied by the fragrance that ia
set free as the fruit is crushed 10 the mouth