The Sunday herald., 1886-09-26
OUR SUMNER RAMBLE IN A FOR
EIGN LAND.
Especial Correspondence of TUE SUNDAY HERALD ,


ES Rours TO BRUSSELS, BgtGiuM,
September 8, 1850.
Paris s one Of the gaycst capitals OF Europe, and
there had we enjoyed four delightful months, going
10 her theatres and operas for which she Is not to be
eScellcd visiting her picture galleries, lingering In
Cluny, musng over history, frequentng her boulc-
wards and large avenues dr, .ng TO the Bols ndulg-
Ing In purchases which can be found nowhere out
side OF this grand city, and realizing all the pleas
ures for which this little paradise is noted but ,s
summer heat drives from II many OF Its residents, so
that the foreign traveller Is forced to nd comfort in
another cline.
What could he more plcasau, than to enter Ger.
many, and make trip on the famous Old Rn,nes
Nothing, as far as we knew; 30 on we started 10 see
something OF another land and by comparison nudge
which people we preferred. AS true and apprccia.
i've Americans, we had as YET found nothing to
equal or compare with the comfort In which the
new world indulges. Having travelled from east to
wost ana north to south, we not capable OF judg-
ing' II Is only when far from home that we realize
ana long Tor lis uSuries, and having knocked about
TOT TWO years we are now able to tell those at home
10 remain there aud enjoy what other nations are
lacking. But the train has stopped and we are in
strassburg To visit Its cathedral was our first duty
but TO master the jaw-brcakine language was DIM
cult and only after eesticuiaons and various con-
tortions we succeeded in making the coachman uu.
derstaud what we wished to see
Suddenly fine spire came In View grow, M larger
until the whole church was Visible. This world.re.
hoWned edihce Is too well known for me to enlarge
upon a adescript,on OF II. Our feelings were those
whlch such temple OF Coi alone can insp'-e
Everything In other days done for Him. but It is
rare now to hear OF churches OF this maRnlacence
erected to do him honor.
II was nearly 2:ls p. NJ. OF June 10. 1sss. when
remembered that there was perfo nance by the
strange old clock at that hour; 80 we hurried to the
siue OF the high altar, and, sure enough, small boy
appeared saluted DEATH and the latter struck the
quarter. While standing there before this famous
OLD time-plece all the odd stories came upon me.
and Imagined poor old Daslpadlus casting his last
glance upon his darling clock, while his execution
ets were eagerly awaiting 10 put out his eyes, and
their utter amazement and desola,iou when the
weights fell to the ground aud the clock was
He had removed the principal spiing, md thus his
revenge was complete, and accomplished according
10 MS design for the people OF Strassburg were jea.
GUS that those OF Basel should approve Dlslpaduss
clock, and weie resolved he should not meye an
other. The clock remained thus until 1912, when
schwlgne repaired 1t.
We spent much time In admlring and critlc,sire
Tue church, and though 1t is very beautiful to the
stranger who has travelled lttle 1t appeared to me
somewhat eroesque, since hal v'slted the lovely
ones all through Italy, especially the cathedral In
Milan. II was late In the afternoon when we
reached Baden.B Baden, and we soon declared our
hearts lost with this little garden spot. Everything
looked 30 fresh and green that 1t gave most r.
ireshing alr to the place. aud Its remarkable ceani-
ness struck us at once.
Baden-Baden is situated at the verge OF the Black
Forest and was once celebrated for Its gambling
noles 1t was here that Grendollne ventured her
small pttance with the hope OF gain, (see the most
interesting chapter In "Danie Deronda'D The Corso
Is constantly ned with carriages going to and fro,
ana from Its present gaety one can easily imagine
what 1t was In other days.
The delightful. shady, walks lead
ing TO the old fortress tempted us to dive there
We entered the "Alten Schloesn by a massive stone
gateway. The path, Swallowed by huge trees with
tiny green vines creeping upwards, made the place
appear w.ld and desoate. The dining room Ia over
grown with ivy; trees have sprung up where knights
OF old ate and drank to fair ladies'; the chimney
place, mass OF pebbles and weeds was where per.
maps they ate and listened to tales OF love and
war, while the wind whistled overhead. For three
centuries it was occupied by the Lord Of Baden and
later the French reduced 1t to Its present condition
The new castle Is built where the Romans had
their baths and where in the eleventh century the
Tribunals sat and held their meetings. Here also
are the old dungeons, where prisoners were wont To
be let in by means of hole in the ceiling and were
ne'er heard Of again. The place was dark and cold,
which made us shudder and greet daylight with
found ourselves going toward the old Convent of
l-chtenhal. The men were working 10 the field
and the young girls hoeing at their Sides peasant
women carrying immense loads upon their heads,
children OF ten years were raklng In the hay and all
appeared happy In their laborous work.
Friends told US by all means not to miss Stuttgart,
and, In obedience, we journeyed there, and now.
wishing to be every inch the true friend let me ad-
wise travellers not to 60 out OF their road to reach it,
Tor OF all stupid, hot uninterestng places this city of
music heads the list, and we m lde our STAY as
short as possible and thence our steps led towards
Heidelberg.
Heidelberg is one OF the prettiest spots in the
Vicinity of the Rhine 1t Is charmlngly situated on
the left bank OF the Neckar In arrow yalley 1t ia
town that had felt every pusalon OF war, and that
OF the Thirty Years was the time OF Its fatal de.
struction, Q6i2) 1t is now renowned all over Eu-
rope, and indeed the world, for its Unlyersty
founded m 1896, the Oldest In Germany; the number
OF students Is about seven hundred. As an edlQce
1t IL not remarkable, and It's interior attracts little
interest, outside OF the called 'Prson," for the
students: which is indeed farclcal. The guide, a
good rolicsome sort of Dutchmln, led the way with
smile nitting across his face. We thought 1t I'm
kind when about TO take Us to place OF suffering, t)
but later we fully appreciated his expressions
The "Prlson" consists OF four cells called respect
lively, 'Solltude" "Paais Royal "Sans Souci and
"Vilia Trail" In the hall the sign boards and
In obedience to our guide, we followed MIN to the
Chamber OF Solitude. What an absurd sight met
our gaze. The walls are decorated with the nor
traits of different young men, made from candle
smoke, some drinking, Others lighting, and each one
doing something more ridiculous than his neighbor.
The doors have photographs inserted In them OF
some OF the prisoners. In this room was cornned
Prussian Of very high family, aud when asked
where he was the guide replied, "Oh! he zoo,
out from II A. NJ to p. NJ. to see his friends, and
fhnna 1apl IL IIr,.
with six or seven companions, end they froc until
qulteate." "But," suggested one of our party, sup
posing he don't come back, what then?" "No
fear" replied our ccerone "for the police would be
after him." This prisoner had been there two weeks
and had three more yet to serve, for having hit a
me over the head. But they like 1t, we were made
To understand. Should one be called to 10 to
'Prson" during week In which they have large
dinner they merely say at is not convenient - and
put 1t OF for another time. The "PalaIs Royaln
contains on the wall the autOg faph OF Blsmarcks
son. Indeed fellow Is only thought at the top OF
the ladder when he has been here several times
There are i've different corps, distinguished by tho
colors OF their caps-yeow, red, white. green, and
blue. The corps students do not study, but 20 10
Heidelberg to shave good time" and "paint the
town red" frequently, their fathers having been
there before them. 1t seems strange that they
should go there IN the prime Of youth to imbbe bad
habits, bad MORALS and great disregard for religion
SCAT, drink, and be merry, for tc morrow we dle,,
seems to be their motto, and they live up to It from
Alpha to Omega. All might long they are heard sing
ing and carousing, while beer flows like water We
noticed many OF their faces Scared and marked In
the most dreadful manner, the result OF dueling
and the more the- faces are slashed and disngured
the prouder they are. Duels Take place twice
week, and for the most trivial things. The old
castle Is not To be missed and forms the great at
traction OF Heidelberg. Though now somewhat
ruined, owing 70 various wars, ia still Imposing
and stately. ills romantic spot, the moat over
grown and choked up tn creepers; the trees, as
sumlng thousand forms, make It wild ana plctur-
esque, and the river below rushes down below the
three old bridges which span II.
Frankfort-on-the-Main was next on our prc +.
s.amme. was surprised to md 1t such beautiful
place. believing 1t 10 be only q commercial town. II
Ia one OF the Richest ctes In Germany, and charm
ingly laid out with superb houses, surrounded by
spacious gardens worthy TO adorn any palace. A
wealth OF trees and verdure decorates this lovely
spot. Frankfort Is the cradle OF the Rothschilds
Their house was shown US, miserable building;
and to think they now control the finances OF Europe
Wiesbaden, but an hour from Frankfoi., was
reached In what they call the "SchnellD (express)
train. but pufTp nous IL waa rp palIv "a snatI train