Savannah courier. (Savannah, Tenn.) 1885-1979, 1886-08-12
GENTLEMEN'S vESTMENTS.
How Philosophical Tailor Classifies His
Numerous Customers.

How Philosophical Tailor Classifies His
Numerous Customers.
The reporter remarked that the GUS
tom of dressing soberly in garments of
an unpronounced cut would allow gem
tlemen of modest means to appear well
at slight expense, and moreover that
such investiture was much more sensi-
BILE than the old extravagances of shape
and color.
"If that style of dress should be gen.
orally adopted" said the knight of the
shears, "I'd quit the business. But it
won't. There are always certain
classes of men who have certain styles
of their own. They pay little attention
to fashions except to modify them into
the direction of their own ideas, This
habit l regard as the consummate
flower of high civilization. 1t gives
the individual a marked character. 1t
distinguishes him from the herd. To
the civilian his garments are AS much
an evidence Of the calling-to one who
can read the signs--as his uniform to
soldier, or his livery to footman.
There are clergymen. for instance,
who can mistake one, even though he
doesn't affect the clerical cut?"
"How are you to distinguish the
doctor from the lawyer"
'Only novice would ask that ques
ton. Physicians in good practice -
and of course have none others among
my customers-are the most particular
of men. / like Madison avenue prac-
titioner for example, and he's the ideal
doctor for you. Large and stout, he
carries himself with great dignity and
immense pomp. He dresses well in
fine black diagonals. with rich black
kersey top-coat in winter. Sometimes
he indulges in fancy cashmere vest,
and all must fit him without wrinkle.
In hats, gloves and boots he is unexcep-
tionable and extravagant. His scarfs
are the richest and his linen and cam.
brics the finest.
"But lawyers-pshaw! They're the
worst dressers in the world, if they
amount to any thing. Want some
thing black, and take the first goods
that come to hand-never want "a new
suit till the old one gets disgracefull,
shabby. Hats shocking! The wors
tiles in this town are partly distrib
uted on the heads of our most eminen
lawyers. You can hardly get them tc
come here and try on suit, but mus
send it on the chance of fitting. They'll
always take it, don't care how it look
if it goes on easily. But, bless you
that isn't what true artist wants.
"Another class of men who dres
Enthusiastically are men of business
They want dozen coats and as man
trousers and waistcoats and the like
in multitudes, after the latest fashion
Yet your true man of fashion is n
dude. He is never pronounced, an
never has on shining new clothes. 1t
the general affect-the elegance tina
only comes with long experience or
careful valet-that shows, and its wha
the mere dude can never catch on tc
The dude and all the noodles wh
merely copy the most extravagar
fashions, while they are our best pay
ing customers, don't win our admire
ton. It's the man who knows his styl
and dresses up to it that is the tru
dresser.
"Of course you can always recogniz
the sporting man. He is a species wit
divers classes. The racing man dresst
differently from the yachting mar
The dog fancier has salient peculiar
ties unlike those of the horse fancier
and the mere gambler, who looks o
sports of all kinds as simply opportun
ties for book-making, has style all il
I own. They differentiate in little thing
: -trinkets, linen, etc. They are a
fond of high colors and unique pa
terms. Their abundant jewelry is al
Z; to be in the form of pugs' heads or ra
I ing insignia. They have a weakne'
for bell-crowned hats, yellow stitche
gloves and pointed shoes. Their can'
, remind you of the neck of a stork wit
the long bill on top. They are know
: ing crowd mostly, but about DIRE
they are as innocent rs babies.
"Closcly allied TO sporting men al
, actors. from q tailor's point of viey
! But there's a wide difference essentia
: ly. The sporting man wants to dazz
I you, the actor to impress and overcom
: you. The sporting man will distribu
his magnificence all over him; the a
/ tor relies on some such concentrate
effect as sealskin coat or a lowe
shirt collar and wide-brimmed hat. |
/, wants his clothes cut not to fit hir
but to drape him, and he arrays hin
i self in attitudes favorable to class
| folds. Actors are liberal custome
|. when they have money. But political
stand high with us. They are the ft
4 lows for new clothes. They wa
{ every thing slick and shiny, spick al
, span, and brand new. They're t
I best tailor's blocks, too, and affo
;. more pleasure to a true artists @
q than the merely elegant fellow W
distracts attention from his clothes
| L..