The Austin weekly statesman. (Austin, Tex.) 1883-1898, 1886-07-15

that may be required. This increases the
facilities but it makes demands upon the
artistic sense and knowledge of form
which the old fashioned dressmaker can
not meet. She tries laboriously to satisfy
diversified needs and tastes by means of
the paper model But it is not the copy
ing of model, but being able to depart
from it, that is evidence of skill. The
difference between the best and the worst
may be all matter of detail; both start
ing from the same foundation-that is, a
correct outline - one producing lines of
beauty, while the other will turn out a
thing all patches, or rigid as wooden
block.
"TIE-BAoKs" AND SADDLES"
Almost the same words will describe the
dress of to-day and that of five or ten
years ago; yet the effect is entirely differ
ent; simply because the dr6pery has
been loosened; the "tie-back" tapes turned
into straps or saddles" and the fullness
lifted into the semblance of an expensive
tournure, whereas, at that time it hung
low The straight folds at the back of the
skirt are revival in the direction of sim
| plicity as well as conJ enience. But they
are not universal. They are considered
suitable for the young and for simple
country styles; and are supplemented by
enormous bows and wide sashes. The diff
ferences are often made by loop or
touch; taking in something here, letting
it out there; and above all, differentiating
it from similar style.
The aim of the dressmaker without
genius is to initiate the commonplace; the
aim of the dressmaker with genius is to
depart from the commonplace and impart
is field for our girls far more worthy of
their powers than painting plaques or
pals; and what is better still, vastly more
remunerative. Why should the rich cream
of this occupation be skinned off by
those who do not possess half the capacity !?
A girl who had studied drawing, who I'M
derstood the anatomy of the arm, would
never threaten paralysis by cutting
straight, tight sleeve nor would she con-
slider the foundation form - either as a
whole or in part - as something de-
pendent upon fashion and subject
to its caprices. The anatomy of the figure
being always the same, the outlines of its
covering should be the same; the changes
and new departures being always in the
line of detail. 1t is upon this basis of
| essential principles and in connection
with drawing that dressmaking should be
taught to girls in our public schools, not
embarrassed by the minutia of changing
and fuctuatiug fashions.
THE VEST
is protean in the number of shapes it as
sumes, and looking at it from a general
and inexperienced point of view the diff
ferent styles seem to be without signif-
canoe and to be common to every occa-
sion and purpose. But this is not by any
means the case. The plain vest is for the
street; the full habit vest for cotton morn
ing gowns; the loose, sweeping "Moliese"
vest is reserved for children and tea
gowns. The unwritten laws with regard
to the details of clothes are now more
rigid than the written ones.
The fresh vest of the season is the
pretty, clean-looking little vest of white
pique, fastened with small round pearl
buttons, and worn with modest, untrim-
med costumes of gray or copper-brown
tweed. The jacket, close-ftting, closed at
the throat, and the skirt plated, with
striped or killed panels, or perhaps open
and united by cords over the plating at
the side. These costumes are excellent
for travelling, and seem to have largely
taken the place of twilled flannel. They
are usually made with three vests, one
white, one buff, and one of the material.
Hats are not now made to match; they
are too high and would be too heavy.
Dark straw or straw to match can be
found readily, and is more convenient.
A material somewhat lighter in texture,
but dark or neutral in color, and very SER
viceable consists of wool checked in al
most invisible lines and very small
squares with linen. 1t is soft, but firm in
texture; light in weight and Inexpensive
only so cents per yard. 1t may be made
up with plain Saline or surah plaitings and
full vest, and does not require skirt lin
ing, unless as a foundation. There is not
the same objection to the introduction of
the linen into the body of the wool as to
the mixture of silk and wool, and it re
duces cost and weight, while not impair
ing its useful qualities. 1t is usual to
make up this material with plain Saline
or surah for plaitings and vest the
shade of the linen lines, always
darker than the body part of the
fabric, but it could be just as well com
pleted by plain vests of pique or wash
leather and few bronzed buttons put on
in twos or threes.
COOL CoLoRs.
Cool effects are now sought for. The
fiery reds and brilliant yellows have given
place to gray blues, mushroom browns,
pale ecru, tinted white and lilac. Gray
and lilac, and gray and white, are remi-
niscence of the styles of half century
ago, which have been revived occasionally
since, and are always suggestive of the
fairness and sweetness, the freshness and
GOODNESS of the young summer. Ladies
who go to the country need only thin
tweed or checked wool for travelling and
cool days, couple of cotton print or
gingham dresses for morning, lilac mus
lin and linen lawn for afternoon wear, and
half-worn silk for Sundays and occa-
sions, to be well fitted out so far as
dresses are concerned. For the rest, one
black or brown and one white straw hat,
black fchu, gray buster or ulster, a
small sun umbrella, pongee parasol,