The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1886-11-04
OUR GRANDFATHERs' BREECHES.

The Gradual Transformation of the Dress
suit-A swei's Wardrobe.
"Men have grown FESTIVE under the
severe and rigid dress-suit rules of for
mer years. They are moving toward
more elaborate costumes, and they'll
get there before long, too.
"Tve watched the restlessness OF the
dress SUIT" said New York tailor,
with great care, for l knew that as
soon as the deadlock was broken it
would only be a question OF time when
knickerbockers, buckled shoes. and
ruffies would come in. The first indica-
tion was q broad satin or silk collar
and lapel Tor the evening coat. This
made q stir at first but now three
tourths of my client have silk or satin
lapels on their coats. Then came white
waistcoats at first very simple, but
this season made of figured silks OF
really gaudy patterns, and further
decorated with gold buttons. Many Of
the buttons had the monogram OF the
wearer wrought on them, and some had
crests. Then came very significant
change-the triumph of pleated, stamp
ed, ribbed, and decorated shirt fronts.
They became almost universal before
the season ended The straight collars
of few seasons ago were replaced by
rolling collars, and the little shoestring
ties by broad black or white bards.
Then the coat-tails were rounded of
and made smaller, and the coat drawn
in at the waist like the coats of the
eighteenth century. l saw the way
things were tending, and built up some
of my shoulders with great success.
The trousers were then decorated with
broad satin bands, and your fashion
able man of 'o6 was properly clad.
Add very low pumps, colored hose,
and the latest wrinkle from the Prince
of Wales-a bright red, blue or yellow
silk handkerchief thrust into the open
waistcoat front-and everything was
complete. These are small things in
detail. but very important rs indicating
the bent of fashion. A plainly dressed
man of two seasons ago is eclipsed by
the dandy of to-day. with his SNOWY
shirt front, dash of color in handker-
chief and hose, delicately tinted waist
coat, loosely tied cravat, and high
shouldered, tight-waisted coat"
"And yoE think al this precedes
knee-breeches?
Surely; tennis and bicycling have
shown great many men how becom-
ing knee-breeches are. They are in
fnitely more graceful than trousers, if
man has any sort of leg at all. No
man wears knee-breeches when he plays
tennis because they are comfor table.
because they are not. The stockings
irritate and are exceedingly warm, and
the garters above the knee are no end
of q nuisance. A pair of loose flannel
trousers are infinitely more comfort
able and convenient. But the mind of
man is bent on knee-breeches, and the
influence of woman goes with it. Men
now wear knickerbockers in the coun-
try, though they never touch tennis
racket or throw leg over a wheel. 1t
is the result of desire to look pictur-
esque. The Due de Morny'o set in Paris
has gone step further than New York
In the matter of evening attire. They
now wear-or at least did during the
season-pearl-gray trousers and blush
dress coats. with gold buttons. When
our young society men get to that point
and it would not surprise me to see
it done next season. can dress q
shapely man so that he will be tit to
stand comparison with the handles of
the last century. "-NeaC York Su11.