The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1886-06-30
HE IS DISENCHANTED.
A HooslER's OBSERVATIONS CON-
CERNlNG FLORlDA'S MALARIA.

waterscapes That Are Odd and Curious,
but Rather Monotonous-Much That Is
Gorgeous, Tropical and Novel to a
Northerner-Up the ST Johns.
There is deal Of humbug in this Florida
business-a good deal more than l venture
to set forth, lest lay myself liable for
SANDER And yet there is really good
deal in the state worth seeing, and some few
things worth owning. But the things
oftenest mentioned and most highly prized
appear to me of rather the least value. The
crystal lakes and pellucid streams appear,
when you stir them up, about the color OF
lanyard ooze The land is one-thlrd under
water, and another third just above it,
while the really dry part is plney woodS
When first looked across the St Johns l
said it was clear water, clear as Lake Mlchl-
gan, but that is merely an illusion, pro-
duced by the reflection OF bright SKY.
Once on the river, perceive it is OF light
purple hue, and as the steamers wheels
churn it up there is no phosphorescent
sparkle, as on the lake; it boils up like
weak solution Of liquid manure. AS to the
scenery, it is simply odd; the pretense OF
grandeur is laughable OF che really roman
tic, the whole state does not show as much
rs may be seen on the Wabash between
the Delphi and Lafayette. How can there
be romance or grandeur where there are no
blufs, no hills the eye can take coGnlzance
of, no cataracts, anu no bold rocky or sandy
shores: where all the streams have barely
perceptible current along the middle OF
broad lagoons, bordered by apparently end
less wastes of dark green aquatic plants anu
staguant water. Odd aud curious it is to be
sure, but rather montonous Where's the
romance in a mud puddles
Now as to health-of course I can only
know Of winter by report, for came when
settled warm weather did. have been in
the state eleven days, aud have caught cold
every dsy in the evening, within ten
minutes after the sun went down Natural
consequences follow. l write this with
plaster on my chest and nine grains OF
ouinine in me-a three grain pill before
each meal to-day. The residents COM
placently remark: "It isn't the fault of tho
state-it is in you" OF course it is in me-
did not expect the state to take cold be.
cause l came into it And, to be sure, how
can it be healthful when you can't travel
two miles in any direction without crossing
u slough in which the Shiny vegetation rots
and sours, and sours and rots, and then
grows over with q yellow-green fungus
which concealS the worst features till late IN
May, then rotS and shines and shines and
rots for five months more. under tropical
sum- Does not common sense teach that if
such district proved healthful it would
make nature liar in all the rest of the
world!
TOLERABLY HEALTHFCL PLACES
And yet doubt not there are many tol-
erably healthful places in Florida If q
man will get half mile of high pine woods
and dry white sand between him and the
nearest slough, and not work hard in the
heat OF the day, or go out alter sundown,
and take little quinine till his system har-
monies with the environment, l doubt not
he can live here many years in good health,
for l meet hundreds who have done it And
then there are some people who enjoy the
happy faculty of the negro-of sweating out
malaria as last as it enters them But for
one such there are three who could not sit
outdoors, or even on an open porch, here
for half an hour after sundown without
feeling illefects Very many of those who
have enjoyed good health here for years
against the night air. No matter how
how warm and dry the day may have
been, the moment the sun disappears the
suspended damp seems to descend upon the
earth in q great sheet The climate is in
deed seductive, and to the glorious nights
and palmy air of early morning l probably
owe the exposure which has so affected me;
but il q man must lie by Tor five hours in
g 81. ln,y II laa, s,,h &c
after suudown, how il he to got the good
of the climates l would prefer less climate
and more liberty.
And yet there is great deal to SEQ in
Florida, and it is gorgeous, tropical and
novel to a northerner lake the scene be-
fore me The setting sun casts a red and
yellow light upon the lake merely an en-
largement Of the St Johns, which stretches
nearly five miles broad flom the front of
the town; all around are the curious grasses,
palms, and pines while the cabbage palmet-
toes stand forty or fifty feet high along the
shore, bare trunks up TO the circular tufts
on their tops Above AMI below town
shallow bayou runs inland, thickset with
spring growth till it gradually changes to
dow hammock, while toward the south the
ground rises gently for mile to O sand
grove-400 acres of orchard, not q tree i'll
1ur,I by the Motel frost, and all thick set
with the young oranges for this years crop.
STEAMED AND FERMENTED.
The main streets of the town are as dry
as an ash heap-as dry as white sand ever
gets under hot sun. But the bayous above
and below send oil shallow branches which
make wet meadow lack of town, and
from there one can walk either way, fol-
lowing what little current there is, till he
finds himself again near the lake front.
among matted palms and spiky grass,
where this years crop is aggressively strong
while last years crop lies rotting OH the
ground All day that matted mass has
steamed and fermented under a hot sun,
and IN half an hour IRON this time the even
ing air will watt therefrom an invisible
something which will compel many sus-
ceptible man to keep indoors. Talk about
such place being healthful! but talk it
to the marines and don't preach it to your
Uncle Fuller"
The trip up the St Johns is a novelty
we'll worth taking in The river itself is a
curiosity. Its most southern head is only
ten miles or so IRON the Atlantic; yet, from
there it runs otf north soms 4UO miles by
course and moro than 200 in direct line,
and its head is no more than ten feet higher
than its mouth. Westward from this head
the numerous lakes which feed the stream
rise, and Lake Apopka is twenty-five feet
atove sea level, while not far west and north
of that are elevations nearly .OO feet high,
though tho eye can not perceive the rise. No
matter how high lake may be, however,
the outlet therefrom hes but sluggish cur
rent; and III this vicinity, where many
bitches have been jug, perceive that the
Increased current thus gained baS soon