The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1886-03-28
WHAT TO WEAR.
The Perfection of the New Cotton Dress
Go0ds-Hints OF Styles.

The Perfection of the New Cotton Dress
Go0ds-Hints OF Styles.
Philadelphia Times.
When manufacturers first commenced copying
certain style OF goods In another material from
that used in the original texture, the fabric was
considered merely an imitation, and hence was
held at low value, for no lady wanted to wear
dress or garment of any goods that might be
taken for an inferior grade Of the fabric it was
plete revolution in such fancies, for reproduc-
tons are noticeable in every kind Of material,
the varieties being distinguished by correct
classification; as, for instance, canvas weave
may be in camers hair, silk, wool, mixed silk
and wool, cotton, cotton and WOOL or in linen.
and often only experts can tell just what the
fabric is really composed of, for some OF the
cloths In cotton equal in beauty to the high
class and high priced creations in silk. wool or
in mixtures
In some smoothly woven goods the difference
is plainly seen, il alpaca and yelling, the wool
cousins of Bingham and chambray, but the cot
ton fabrics. with heavy bourette cords. the fancy
weayes, or even the lustrous surface satines can
be easily mistaken for their more costly cousins
in wool silk, or in silk and wool mixtures, as ID
the Toulon cloths, with silk surface effect, and
designs after the new figures in silk goods.
Other satines have very large Persian conceits
over the tinted or dark toned ground, and soma
are distinguished by band borders in bright hues,
after all kinds of leaves and blossoms, reminding
one of the flowers used on slken tissues nearly O.
quarter of a century ago.
The whites and creams are greatly favored.
Creamcolored CLEANLINESS, with close canvas
ground embroidered by machine. in spots polka
dots, open circles, in squares or heart-shapes,
are among the novelties, as are those in more
elaborate designs in finer canvas, with deep
founces or bands edged with scollops in button
hole stitch below elaborate designs executed in
blue, red, bro Tn and other popular colors. Then
there are cotton Examines, with canvas stripes
alternating with those In brocade or lace effects.
American ginghams are finer than ever and
are in all the Scotch colors with shades,
and odd combinations peculiarly domestic, and
for ordinary wear the Thistle varieties are most
useful, because of their fast colors, as are also
the new corded suitngs or the ginghams with
bourette threads defining the plaids, checks or
outlining the stripes.
Chambrays are to be extensively used ana
these goods. which were last year found only in
the mixed and striped effects, are now shown in
original arrangements of plaids, checks and
blocks. as in the figured Toile du Nord, which
gcods may be made up alone or used in conjunc-
ton with plain chambray in a desirable or aD-
propriate color. Still other chambray novelties
are those with crinkled effects, or with eglantine
or messy stripes alternating with plain stripes.
and these chambrays are Ia fast coiors and can
be washed when necessary; but dresses or the
messy chambray should be pulled In shape
while damp, rs these goods, like the Aliciennes.
ironed.
Others Of these cotton novelties are the robes
OF applique embroidered chambray. The founl
dation Is IN soi,.e one OF the favorite colors Ia
nne chambray, with applique oesrgus ~ con-
trasting color embroidered on to the dress
fabric and supplemented by other figures in en-
broldery, after the usual method of transferring
applique silkembroidered conceits and render
ing them more effective by needle working the
necessary leaves and stems. In making UP
colored chambravs, gnghams and other wash
fabrics many ladies use as combinations and
trimmings the pretty al-over lace and tuckings,
which are labor saving and serviceable as we'll 10
decorative. hence they specially attractive In
garments for misses and children.
The spring novelties in camel'shair and all
wool are not by any means eccentric, as vera
those shown in the fall One is fine broad
cloth with an impreceptible twill, the surface
showing smooth and very soft, and although il
has the khayyam or canvas tent cloth qualifica-
tons. it has mono of the peculiar twirl or swirl
so marked in the serge woven by the same Amor
lean mills The khayyam broadcloth comes in
the natural color of the camers hair and In the
dark blues, browns, green's and all the new
colors and Oriental hues.
The other new fabric is fine all-wool cloth
in dark colors, with threads of lighter colors
than those in the cloth, or in white or
black, running up and down the widths, say
about half an inch apart, giving the cloth an
appearance of the heavier line goods made and
used for dress trousers for gentlemen Dresses
of these goods are very stylish when the vests
and parements are Of velvet in the shape Of the
wide stripes, with silken cord in the Same color
as the thread outlining or bordering the stripes
The handsome CLEANLINESS, with lace stripes al
ternating with those of plush, are much used.
Still they are not quite so novel as the fabrics
with cords so woven in the materials that they
form broad bands In imitation of braiding, ar
ranged in graduated stripes and checks. The
cords are in one color only differing from the
background, or in a variety Of harmoniouslY
blended shades, named Breton colors, for they
include all the soft. warm tints to be found in
the Breton embroidery