New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-09-19
TIE AUTUMN FASHIONS.
TA!LoR-MADE FRocKs FOR THE STREET
MATERIALS AND METHODS OF MAKING Up cos



TUNES.
Fashion no longer passes suddenly from one
style in dress to another. but the notifications from
season to gradual that the eye start
led by violent changes English tailor stycs have
TOO strong hold TO be renqulshed and with few
variations remain the In general cut. French
fashions In walking dresses find favor outside the city,
especially at the South and West while New-Yorks
women, Nnoss fine forms set OF to advantage by
tailor suits, ADOPT En- gsh styles In the promenade
The cloths imported by merchants for tailor suits
are heavier and nrner In texture than any goods
previously imported for womens wear. Scotch cheviots
in cool. pretty heather mixtures prominently shown
There are also many hair stripes Of silk dark wool
ground. Heavy Angora cloths which range in
prise from 81 80 10 IS so yard are among new goods
on the fall counters These cloths shown In the new
helorope and prune shades in brown green DARK blus
and other fashionable eolors. Some OF the heavier
Angora cloths intended for winter woven In
diagonal ribs OF two contrasting shades like slate and
brown. chocolate and navy blue and tan. There
Knckerbocker plads in shades like slategreen,
dab and black with overshOt figures in red, which
offered the shops for solid tailor costumes Thsre
also many Scotch paids In clan patterns and fancy
coors Heavy canvas cloths. which are similar weave
to the etine cloth Of last summer. but warm enough
for fall wear exhibited in all the colors at from
81 so to 81 so yard.
The heavy cancels hair with rough hairy surface,
serges and bison cloths in solid colos are ex ensively
nsei by fashionable tailOrs. Cashmere Is favOrite
material with French modistes this and black
and white combinations OF all kinds will be considered
Stylish The side peating Of black aud white satin
poI ular several years will be revived this foil There
many fine serges IN black and dark with hair
lines In red IN white crossing Them dotted with dark
dots OF SILK plush. These goods are imported Tor the
OF dressmakers, and viii be made up in combination
with plain goods There also dark grounds
marked with similar han ines thu surface OF the goods
fuaa0 M
plush Thie used for panels dess-tronts,
cuffs high collars with the rest OF the dress
OF plain serge. There are also new woollens Tor
combination suits entirely covered with broken plush
stripes shadss ana hair lines OF silk in say
c0or while others striped With lines OF cable cord
alternating with beads.
The new tailor cults for autumn wear are usually
made with habit basques which quite short on the
sides and finished with vest, simple cuts and an
extremely high collar. New standing collars sometimes
measure three inches height ard It sad that tho
collars The frocks made FOR the Princess OF Wales By
her En- gsh tailor measured three inchesand quarter
the Princess having an exceptionally swanlike neck
The often lett at the top and two nat
refers added display chemsette OF fine peated lawn
needework embroidery. There are many short pulled
vests which only reach to the busne ana are finished
either side by fiat rcrers ornamented on one SIDE
perhans with fancy buttons.
The drapery on all the tailor irocks is abundant
at the bacs to admit the enormous tomnWe now con
slered necessary The sides OF the dress ae le quite
Fat and plain while front may be finished by fdoer
OF embroidery pyramid OF peatng with repTs OF
hraiing on some cloth In strongly contrasting color;
TINS a blue serge dress Is finished With panels and
rerers Of white cloth braided with dark blue braid
All the new wraps made by taiOrs are e1treme-elther
very short Ike the driving and walking coats ahu
mantles reaching TO the foot OF the dress Ike tue
listers. The style OF these garments depends ehley
upon the exquisite III winch is gwen By the ladies' taoF
afiga beiu
shown in tan shades IN dark brown and other colors
There are gay wraIs which are popular Win Enghsn
girls NANTES in crimson bison clotn simply eiged
with black and gold cable coId which III tue nsufe al
tine back with exquisite precision, |hHe tney are
left loose in front. large square sleeves There are
so enre listers OF dark crimson bison cloth brailed
with heavy cable cord IN selfcOOr. Ulscis fOT durable
wear are male OF lxa scotch twseds anu motel morn
buttons nearly inch IN dlame or are used FOR IAN
wsar listers made sinse-Oret'tsd AM are u'al'y
left zen from tns waist ut It Is said the winter gar
rnents will he doube-breasfed AMI tr nned WIN f''
small tOlues and large GansDotougu hals u. u4"leI
with punches % TIPS, Wings uDbon-2N' an go 'oi
OF velvet VIII he worn 20 luf'cH ""4"'- 80. ~, d,
various societies Tor tho protection oil bru7 nay" pu .
check ON tne use o. small Dlis ia llliaot ,ers
any birds are seen on the ne" gnuleIs 49,, mi q
are many agrcttrs and winee There are some luiP
algrees in the colors Of the dover sold as 1" a. :
e1cb New tonuets anI toqGe- are extremely iien ID
front and ut closely the head HeOuope i lrtd-
vii Ire -rrerscd.d later 10y other as % II rich
shade which uirss that all tue mnul.t g." th' lrT
color which VIII be used IN dark shaie- Tor the 5Ieel
an IN lighter Cnts for evening wetr Ac 'cl" DUNK am
tapestry blue other new coors. steel ei ro lei !
seen on many OF the neT bDnues. AMI - need 10 cou
bu,tou VITA Labrador velvet Black veyei no1nrt1 are
! generally trimmed with handsome Cut Jet beads ana
| ac1 aI grctfes aud breasts ~
! TIE hair Is TO be worn lower hy young women aAe
hack hair VIII be laid no fun BRAIDED co.'s ABOUT tnH
! middle Of the head. leaving TIE top rlAn, "hNc lnr
| front HAIR "a arranged Russian barg, Sughi
frn.e OF hair the forehead long IN font ana cuTV
ing snort al the sides. Matrons viii wear the4 Iohl
nar ro ei un IN centre ana cu AZ the SIZE WIN
Kin fyt Al the bAck: the style o. couture now adopted
lv Ms cleveland Chiiireu'- mar X mo- longer worn
in full bang but lett IN slight fringe over me ore
head Prudent mothers cir their children mar When
they are eight years OF ase anu eANe IL ror
! uil they al ahOnt fourteen. ,--,.o..
Fedora Mechn aui Oriental are the most popular aces
used French thread ami Clanty lace va! -AprI'' 80
! spanish Tor trimming aud general use. Wniie ana
c1lorri crDe-iSsc eXqusite7 EN- roliered WIZ uasrl
and otner flowers Will be lse the wrist AMI throat Of
! handsome dresses. .,..,., ,,r-,
| eubfolA.ry and nredlcwork ne or tle Itruol
cnr,nsettes are neatly flushed with blocks ana rows
/ ~ hemsUtching 81 ... 49,. Ia. o., Arossrs
For IN formation received thanks are que 70 nessrs
| Arnold Constable & CO.. kcdieru, Aiken, son x 20
| and Barker.