The Austin weekly statesman. (Austin, Tex.) 1883-1898, 1886-05-06
JENNIE JUNE IN GOTHAM.
PECULIAR SUMNER FASH
IONS.
NEW LACES AND EMBROIDERY
UPON LINEN - GRADUATING
RESSES-HAND WORK VS.,
MACHINE WORK
From our own Correspondent.
New YORK, April 80, 1886.

peculiar; at least as seen III the "piece,"
and unsophisticated women do not know
what to do with them. The coarse woods
for street wear must be combined with
colored stripes in plush, velvet or tapestry
designs. The fine woods have lace or open
worked stripes and must be made up over
silk, and the silks have discarded broC a lie
and have wonderfully wrought (like close
dots) beaded fronts, which cost for this
purpose, and for trimming, twenty dollars
per yard. The fashionable tints in sum-
mer wool are cream and mastic or stirring"
color, made over silk of the same shade;
the basque finished with high collar, and
the sleeves with cuffs of dark, rich velvet;
garnet, vine, navy blue, brown, ruby or
currant red,
Redfern has made an immense success
of dove color combined with Eucalyptus
green, edged with fine gold and pink cord;
the hat dove color, with velvet trimming
in the same shade of green, and pink and
gold feathers in pale shades.
+ A cream wool costume brought from
abroad by young lady who arrived re
Gently, was simple and very pretty. The
skirt was plated and trimmed with a
broad band of black velvet. The bodice
had black velvet braces and standing col
lar; and the hat was black straw, with
straight sailor brim, lined with white straw
instead of silk or velvet, and trimmed
with bunch of green watercress, very
natural in appearance.
1t is undeniable that these cream wool
fabrics make lovely dresses for young
girls, and it is a pity that they soil so cas-
lily as to be impractlcable for the ordinary
wear of ordinary people. These must
console themselves with the reflection that
the newest and most fashionable dress
skirts, like those of last winter, hang
straight at the back; that cottOns are as
pretty as silk, and are made up without
lace; and that the soft, inexpensive silks,
the surahs, the satin merveilleaux, the
velontines and satin francaives, are more
fashionable and more durable than the
old gros-grains at double the price.
GoOD-BY TO LARGE PATTERNS.
1t will be also useful to bear in mind
that the large patterns have, excepting in
special cases, given place to very small
designs-dots, tiny rings, darts, clover
leaf and key patterns-distinct, but cover
ing the surface; and fine and pure enough
to be derived from the old Greek. These
are especially found in the cottons, dress
linens and foulard silks. The ground of
the cottons is often some soft
shade of red, usually deep or
dark enough to give character
to its appearance. The minute figures
cover it, and the dress is made with
full skirt and bodice, draped overskirt-
if liked-but no rutfling, either of lace or
the material. The small checked, and
hair-striped linens are practically indie
structible. They make up into charming
plated suits with velvet belt, loops and
neck band, and are so inexpensive, that
they are available for any one who can af.
ford dress at all.
1t is not necessary for all to buy the
kind of wool that needs to be lined with
silk. There are soft, solid woods with pat.
terms in the self-color woven in the ground
that are lovely; and the touch of velvet
upon these gives them distinction.
Linens do not enter enough into the
calculations of ladies who want cool and
economical dressing for the summer
| The dark figured, or hair-striped linens
make excellent summer travelling dresses
and can be worn very satisfactorily under
a long, gray alpaca coat; the most SER
vicable, dust-defying and protective OF
all summer wraps. Alpaca does not, how.
ever, look well in the loose, baggy, big.
sleeved dust cloaks which have been in
vogue of late years. Its stiffness prevents
it from falling into the figure readily; and
it needs, therefore, to be always made as
fitted or semi-ftting garment.
HOW FASHIONS COME.
Fashions now receive their impetus from
many different sources; notably from the
art industries, which, in New York, have
given US some beautiful and original
fabrics, as we'll as novel methods of deco
ration. The most charming dress worn
| at a recent Nineteenth Century club meet
ing, was by Mrs. James Brown Potter. II
was of old gold tapestry silk with sun,
set glow to it; and it was made very ar
tistically with high, pulled sleeves and
outstanding collar of gold embroidered
lace. The long train had an edge of
plated strawberry silk and cream lace;
and the square bodice had a full front of
the plain silk with lace finish. The fab
ric was Que of the beautiful, silken stuffs
designed by Mrs. Wheeler's society of
associated artists and manufactured for
her by an American firm of silk weavers.
Mrs. Wheeler has also designed a soft,
summer silk, which is adapted to dresses
as we'll as summer portieres. The design
is entirely her own, and consists of yell
low cowslips with sedgy, olive tinted foli-
age on sand colored ground, and with
an indescribably suggestive atmosphere
of out doors and the low, moist localities
in which the cowslip is found.
Fashion in London has accepted with
enthusiasm, the beautiful embroidery
upon linens for dresses and the fine
drawn-work for underwear, executed by
the peasant women of Donegal, unuer the
leadership of ladies connected
with art decorative societies
while the finest laces in the
trousseau of the Infanta Eulalie came
from Erizegeberge, a district which has
been made famous in Bohemia by the
hand-work of the women, who profit by
all new ideas in way which shows mar
velous skill, enterprise and ingenuity.
The Donegal embroideries upon cream
linen show buttercups and cowslip pat.
terms in natural colors upon the pretty
costumes for country wear, and furnish
many suggestions to the clever fingers OF
decorative workers in this country.
GRADUATING DRESSES
are always a source of trouble and anx-
iety with expectant graduates from
schools ard COLLEGES. at this season. A