Morning journal and courier., 1886-02-19
PERFUME MAKING AT GRASSE.
Curious and Costly Methods of Ob
 inc nf

January is the time of year most perfect | on the Riviera; the sky is serenely blue, the l sea rolls lazily as if overburdened with | warmth, the scent of the orange blossom still fingers undisturbed by wind upon ter raced hills, the air is gently braeing, and everyone is in good humor. It is curi- ous fact, however, that there are few who do not complain of the monotony of prolonged residence and long to feel at liberty once more, to breathe the fresher air beyond the mountains; yet sooner does a northern winter finally set in than the thoughts fly back to the winding coast line of the sunny sea, the mistral is forgotten amid the fog, or rain, or cold at home, the dream of an ideal life returns and the charm is irresistible again.
 With the advent of the new year the wild flowers begin to bloom, violets coming first in great abundance, soon followed by hya- cinths, blue-bells, narcissus and all their sis ter train of light and color, but in February the aspect is changed, the mistral sweeps along the land, curling over the olive leaves till the country becomes silver gray instead of sombre- green, driving clouds of dust be- fore it and penetrating everywhere like a thorough scavenger. period of restless ness then commences; the invalid loses ground and is weary of the proximity of the sea, from which there is only escape to quieE old-fashioned Provencal town called Grasse, lying under the shelter of the Bases Alps, with fresh, invigorating air, and hay ing for it's chief attraction the important business of manufacturing scent. The posi- tion is very pleasant, at an elevation of elev- en hundred feet on the side of a mountain guarding off the north, and about ten miles by rail behind Cannes so that there is a full southern aspect which tempers the atmos- ,,1,o hIa tion of flowers. Owing to the height the wild flowers are a little later than those of the true Riviera; but acres of violets privately grown, with innumerable beds of hyacinths, jonquils and narcissus; while, long before it is necessary to leave, the may blooms upon the hedges, and the tender star of Bethlehem brightly gleams everywhere, in pleasant contrast to the green of spring. During this season the factories work to their full extent, though the treatment is so slow, and in some instances requires such constant repetition, that flowers only received twice a week. If, however, one should hap pen to visit factory on receiving day, one will find the floors of the reception-rooms covered perhaps with mass of violets, upon which probably recline two or three young ladies, enjoying the perfume and delighting in the reality of an imaginative dream. Ev- cry flower, before arriving at the perfumery, is removed from it's stem, when according to it's nature, it undergoes one of three pro- cesses-distillation submersion in hot grease or absorption by cold grease, all utensils used in the manufacture being made of cop per.
 The first is the costly but ordinary method of the retort, placed over 8 small furnace, carrying the vapor it condenses into ceiver, with glass tubes the outside to catch the essential oil. Verbena, geranium and lavender are treated in this way The second is very curious and seemingly ought to be disastrous. Flowers in certain propor- tions are flung into good sized kettles of hot pork and beef grease, kept warm by placing the vessels in boiling water; they are well stirred together and left still hot for twelve hours, after which the mixture is heavily pressed. The flowers are then thrown away, and the operation is repeated with fresh ones until the liquid grease is sufficiently charged with the odor, when it is placed in @ cold re- ceiver Lalf full of spirits of wine, which in few days becomes impregnated with the perfume and is drawn off for sale. If the grease is not subjected to the spirits of wine on the premises, it is sold in it's congealed state to the London scent-makers, who treat it at their leisure. Roses, orange blossoms and violets some of those requiring this method The third, to the eyes of a novice, does not appear so hopelessly destructive so willfully barbarous; yet the sacrifice of beauty is the same. A layer of olive oil or cold grease carefully prepared is placed upon
 
 downward and remaining for twentyfour Or thirty hours. The process is very tedious, requiring to be repeated with the same grease many times, after which the perfume is ab- sorbed by spirits of wine as in the previous manner. The delicate scents can only be caught in this way-will only give out, so to speak, their exact selves according to nature. It is no extraction, but literal absorption, the catching of sweetness freely imparted to the fresh air of native hillsides. Jassamine, tube rose, jonquil and others not of tough formation must be admitted to this treat ment. The industry is of great value; there are upwards of fifty perfumeries; and though the London market is the best outlet, yet their products are being gradually shipped to almost all parts of the world. Thre is no toll about the work, grinding poverty, no din rattle of machinery, no emaciated children; everything is quiet and peaceful; in fact, if it would not be para dox, one might call life in these factories the Nirvana of labor. The manufacture being a very profitable one, the perfumers are nat urally the men of the place, and besides pos sessing good means, are large owners of property at Cannes and Nice, well Grasse.