Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1886-11-27
How PRAFZ REDEEMED HIS PROMISE
PART l.

But what, Franz?'
do not like the Lyskamm."
And why don't you like the Lyskamm,
Franz"
Herr, there is fearful cornice there
this year."
Wen take our chance of that We
can't tell what it's like till we try, and if
we find it too bad we can always turn back
When must we start"
1t will be time if we leave here at two"
Good Then you'll call us about one
Guten abend, Franz"
"Guten abend, Herr; schlafen sic wohl. :"
The above conversation took place one
exquisite August evening outside the old
Ritiel Hotel. Table hote was over, and
the usual assemblage of climbers, guides,
and others were there, watching the declin.
ing light of most glorious sunset fading
slowly away from the mighty precipices OF
the Matterhorn, and from the other sum-
mits of that, to my mind, the gIandest
range in all the Alps.
The season up TO that time had not been
a good one, and but little climbing had
been done but with the prospect of fine
weather, of which that morning had given
unmistakable promise, every one took
heart, and the number of expeditions that
were at once planned for the following day
was something astonishing.
Every available guide was booked, and
the courteous lady who at that time pre-
sided over the Riffel was at her wits end to
know where to accommodate all who asked
that night for sleeping space. / myself was
not novice at climbing, having already
cnaDf cavayo1 caaSor1c in tbe and for
some years | had been member of the
Alpine Club. l had been up most of the
great peaks around Xermatt but | had not
yet assembled the Lyskamm (14,SS9 feet,
and it was for the purpose of doing the Lys-
kamm that had come up to the Riffel.
was accompanied by a fellowmember
of the Alpine Club named Burns, an adj
mirable climber and a charming COM
panion, and l had my guide Franz, who
had been with me on most of my previous
expeditions, and in whose steadiness and
skill had reason to have the greatest con-
fidence. Franz was man of 10 or so, tall,
and of splendid physique, with a good.
honest, weatherbeaten countenance, TO
which long mustache gave somewhat
military appearance.
In intelligence he was greatly superior to
the ordinary run of guides, for he could
talk well upon other subjects besides the
enc topic of the mountains.
Burns and |, being in some favor with
the authorities at the Riffel, were fortunate
in getting a room to ourselves, but a score
or so of travellers, for whom no other space
could be found, had to repose as best they
could on the floor of the salon, and lucky
were they who could secure a mattress, for
even mattresses gave out at last.
We turned in early; but, as l can never
IN az n n N q
sorry when Franz's knock, soon after
o'clock, warned US that it was time to be
up. This getting up is, think, the most
disagreeable part of an expedition.
l have particular objection to dressing
in bad light feeling all the while only
half awake, and-but low be it spoken
more than half disposed to envy those who
are not leaving their beds at such an I'M
earthly hour.
| dislike too the early breakfast mel
ancholy meal, TO be gotten over as expedi
tiously as possible; and on this point
everyone seems to be agreed, for at the Riff
fel, at all events have observed that 1t IS
dispatched in solemn silence The very
look of the sleepy servant who brings in
the coffee exercises depressing influence,
as well it may.
Then there is that getting into boots flor
] am not one of those incOnsiderate indl-
viduals who puts his on up stairs and
comes pounding down, to the detriment OF
sleep in those who do not happen TO be
getting up so early, and boots, to begin
with, feel hard, if not absolutely uncom-
Portable
But after all. what are these minor disa-
greeables beside the extraordinary amount
of pleasure that is to be got of climbing ?
They perhaps make it all the pleasanter if
we did but know it.
We were rather earlier than the majority,
but there were two or three sleepy-looklng
individuals in the breakfast-room, evil
IDENTIFY noYices bound for NJ onte Rosa, Civ
ing one the idea by their appearance that
they were already beginning to think
climbing mistake rather than otherwise.
1t was close upon 2 o'clock-the hour
Franz had named-when we got off, and
we were soon on our way toward the Cor
ner Glacier. The date was August 10,
1877.
Our party had received an addition in
the shape of porter whom Franz had en-
gagged over night-a big, gOod-natured look
ing fellow, and a very useful man 10 have
on a rope, as we found subsequently.
The morning was splendid, and the stars
shone down upon us from a cloudless sky,
but still Franz seemed dissatisfied, and
complained morethan once of its feeling
close. The atmosphere was certainly
heavy, but as we neared the glacier there
came toward us a breath Of cold air deli
oiously refreshing and inspiriting.
It was still dark when we reached the
ice but before we had crossed the glacier
the day had commenced to break, and be
hind the giant mass of Monte Rosa and
the Lyskamm there came over the heavens
that pale unearthly hue which IS seen at
times when snow and sky intermingle. Il
was a superlatively fine morning and save
for a few saffron-colored clouds floating
above the Weissthor the sky was perfectly
clear.
We breakiasted near the we'll known
haltinE- parties for parties making the
ascent Of Monte Rosa, and soon afterward
we left that mountain on our left to keep
on up the Grenz Glacier toward the summit
of the Lysjoch.
II seemed certain row that we should
have fine day, bat Franz was clearly i'll at
ease. and grumbied constantly about the
heat in the night, saying that he feared
that we should ind the Lyskamm arets IN
bad condition.
His spirits, though, recovered somewhat
as we got higher, and certainly the weather
left little to be desired, for flood Of golden
sunlight spread over rock and snow, till
even the hollow of the glacier IN which we
Indeed. we could not have chosen a more
perfect day for cur expedition.
We made rapid progress. for We were
what is known as a " fast party, and
while it was still early we reached the foot
of the terrible arete, which rises straight
up from the glacier till it culminSses in the
summit of the LYskamm.
To my mind this arete constitutes one of
the nastiest bits of climbing IL the Alps.
Il is not difficult, but it is long, and almost
its whole length dangerous. It's danger
arises from the c9rnice, which il an i'm
mense mass hangs over on to the Italian
side of the mountain. The actual ridge Is
so sharp. and on either side OF the face of
the cliff falls away so steeply to the glacier,
that the greatest care is necessary in order
to keep on the ridge itself without tres
passing upon the cornice, which, being
formed Of frozen snow only, Is liable