Evening capital. (Annapolis, Md.) 1884-1910, 1886-08-31
THE DUDES DAY IS OVER.
A. Philosophical Tailor Discusses the Va
rIety Of vestments Now Affected.

glass WAtLuOW OH A0kuNuWay 1cStckuA9s
says the New York Mail and Express.
when reporter dropped in to see him.
'.The day of the dude is done for.
sighed the tailor, as he watched neat
ly-dressed gentleman 90 by. There
never was fashion that paid the mer-
chant-tailoring trade so well. One OF
the features was its general tightness
A dude had to buy three pairs of trOus-
ers where man got only one. Then
those long Newmarkets were blessing.
The few inches difference in the cloth
on overcOats now takes all my margin
of profits of. "
The tailor said this as seriously as If
he meant every word of it. Then, as
his eyes fell on distinguished-looking
young fellow with Eyeglasses. decorous
wisps of hair down the side of his face.
black scarf, silver pin. dust-colored
trousers, rather wide, and sober drab
spring overcoat, he pointed him out
to the reporter, saying: There Is one
of the sort of fellows who are running us
this year. Fine figure, isn't hep"
The reporter thought he was, and re-
marked that the custom of dressing
soberly in garments of an unpronounced
cut would allow gentlemen of modest
means to appear well ut slight ad :.
vance, and moreover that such investi.
ture was much more sensible than tic
old extravagances of shape and color
IF that style of dress should be gen.
orally adopted" said the knight of the
shears, I'D quit the business. But it
won't. There are always certain class
es of men who have certain styles OF
their own. They pay little attention to
fashion except to modify them into the
direction of their own ideas. This
habit / regard as the consummate flower
of high civilization. 1t gives the indi-
vidual marked character. 1t dis
tinguishes him from the herd. To the
civilian his garments are as much an
evidence of the callihg-to one who can
read the signs-as his uniform to the
soldier or his livery to the footman.
There are clergymen, for instance.
Who can mistake one, even though he
doesn't affect the clerical cutPn
'How are you to distinguish the doc
tor from the lawyer?o
ssOnly novice would ask that qucs-
ton. Physicians in good practice-and
of course have none others among my
customers-are the most particular of
men. like Madison avenue practi-
toner as an example,. and he's the ideal
doctor for you. Large and stout, he
carries himself with great dignity and
immense pomp. He dresses well in fine
black diagonals, with rich black kersey
top-eoat in winter. Sometimes he in
dulges in fancy cashmere vest, and
all must fit him without wrinkle. In
hats, gloves, and boots he is unexcep-
tionable and extravagant. His scarfs
brio the finest.
..But lawyers -pshaw! They're the
worst dressers in the world, If they
amount to anything. Want something
black, and take the first goods that
come to hand-never want new suit
until the old one gets disgracefully
shabby. Hats-shocking! The worst
tiles in this town are partly distributed
on the heads of our most eminent law
yers. You can hardly get them to
come here and try on suit but must
send it on the chance of fitting. They'll
always take it; don't care how it looks
if it goes on easily. But, bless you,
that isn't what true artist wants.
'.Another class of men who dress
Enthusiastically are men of business.
They want dozen coats, and trousers
and Waistcoats and the like in multi
tudes, after tho latest fashion. Yet
your true man of fashion is no dude.
He is never pronounced, and never has
on shining new clothes. It's the gen.
eral effect-the elegance that only
comes with long experience or careful
valet-that shows, and it's what the
mere dude can never catch on to- The
dudes and all the noodles who merely
copy the most extravagant fashions,
while they are our best-paying Gus
toners. don't win our admiration. It's
the man who knows his style and dress.
es up to it that is the true dresser.
sOf course, you can't always recog-
nize the sporting man. He is species
with: divers classes. The racing man
dresses differently from the yachting
man. The dog-fancier has salient PEI
culiarities unlike those of the horse-fan-
cier, and the mere gambler. who looks
on sports of all kinds as simply oppor-
tunities for bookmaking, has style all
his own. They differentiate in little
things trinkets, linen, ETC. They are
all fond of high colors and unique pat
terms. Their abundant iewelry is apt
70 take the form of pugs' heads or rae
ing insignia. They have weakness
for bell-croWned hats, yeilowBtitched
gloves, and pointed shoes. Their canes
remind Won Of tho neck and head Of q
st0rk, with the long bill on top. They
are a. knowing crowd mostly. but about
dress they are as innocent as babies.
GtEt