Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-12-04

was the ideal dress for young girls first
ball. 1t was of frosted silver tulle over
skirt, upon skirt of plain tulle, the under
skirt of all being white silk, with mar
row plating. The dress skirt hung per-
fectly plain, straight and full at the back,
but was crossed diagonally by light
drapery over the front. The folds Of the
low bodice crossed to one side and
terminated under a sash, with three
ends overlapping and forming panel
OF white MORE. On the opposite side was
long, eXquisitely graceful spray OF
white heather blossom forming a panel
also. This ARRANGEMENT OF three sash
ends at the side is quite new, and varies
the mOnotony of the long, wide sash at
the back, besides affording a pretty sub
sttute for side trimmings, which presents
dllhculties, when the design needs to be
at once simple and effective.
Tinselled limitations of coins, mother OF
pearl and chenille drops, spots and figures
tissues, and are used often as straight
skirts, gathered full at the back, but with
out any drapery whatever.
An evening bodice which presents
some features OF novelty, is called the
"Cors,' 'and is said to have been first worn
by Mrs. JameslBrown Potter at Sandring-
ham. The dress was a combination OF
pale ophella satin and brocade, and was
made with peasant bodice with top,
made full aud carried over the shoulders
of white, ribbed Grape. The sleeves were
OF the brOcade, reaching nearly to the
elbow and tied over putting of white
Grape. Miss Marie Burroughs wore q
similar bodice at the authors matinee"
OF Mr.. HowelPs 'Foregone Conclusion"
but made of lace over and above the
white satin, the skirt OF which was
covered with lace.
Lace is not, however, always used in
straight lines. All the art OF the dress
maker is employed to convey subtle and
graceful suggestion, in seemingly simple
yet indescribable folds and forms, and
the one who can utilize antique tiouhces
and put old fashioned, ruffled mantillas
where they will do the most good, finds
her hands full OF business. The greatest
success OF this kind was exhibited at the
same time and by the same artists, as The
frosted tulle ball dress. 1t was arranged
out of a scarf .mantila, with shallow
scarf but very deep lounce, and orange
satin. The result was a marvel. To put
it in words would be TO elude its beauty.
IMPROVEMENT IN CLOTH DRESSES.
There is great Improvement In the later
designs OF cloth dresses. They are
lighter and warmer. Every effort is now
made to relieve them OF the weight which
folds. drapery, overlapping and trimming
made intoleraDle TO delicate women, and
a test to the nerves ever OF strOn., ones.
The lightest and prettiest styles are in
small, almost invisible brown checked
cloths upon silk foundation skirt.
The back is full and lifted a little
TO one side, in simple yet grace
tul fashion, revealing the silkeD
skirt. which is striped with plush or vel
vet. The front is cut IN series of plain
panele. battlemented upon the lower edge
and united together with iacing of cords,
Knotted upon the ends, but not finished
with tassels. The habit bodice has a
lacing on each side Of the plated centre,
and is rounded away from the high vest.
striped with the velvet or plush of the
skirt. The edge of the lower skirt is
finished With a band OF brown fur, and
this in a narrower width is repeated u non
the short coat or street jacket, which
should be lined with plush for warmth
and convenience OF putting on over a
cloth dress in climates where silk or satin
is not sufficient protection.
Silk and satin lining sounds very much
more eXtravagant than 1t really is, or
rather, than it may be. or course plain
silk and satin may be bought of high
quality and used for lining purposes, but
usually it is not. Soft twilled silk or silk
and cotton-satin with only a silk face
and Saline so fine and soft that it is easily
mistaken for thin twilied silk and is more
durable. These are the materials that
are used for "silk" and "satin" Innings
by the majority. Even plush as a lining
is less costly than fur and less heating,
while warm enough for all practical pur
poses, even In cold weather.
NEW DEPARTURE IN FURs.
Furs have quite stepped out OF the old
Tuts; the manufacturers having found 1t
necessary to accommodate their wares to
the fashion of the times or give up alto
gether. One of the largest fur houses in
New York, and one of the oldest, has this
season put designing and manufactur.
ing department in the hands OF a well
known dress designer; turs and fur gar
ments alone not meeting present require.
ments. Fur was never more employed
than now, but it is as trimming and in
combination with other materials, not IN
sets or as complete tur garments.
A long cloak of seal skin or other fur is
quickly found to be a mistake, for there
are so few days upon which IL can be
worn, while the heat it produces is so
much greater than that of an ordinary
garment that change is always at
tended with risk. A gentleman who had
paid $500 for long seal cloak for his
wife, after several years OF repeatedly
EXPIRE ssed desire on her part, was un-
utterably Disguised to find after trial OF
one season that she had had it cut down
into dolman mantle, which could have
been bought for Sl50.
Seal plush is more practical fabric for
a long cloak than real seal fur, and is
equally handsome, il the plush is OF the
best quality, while the cost, though heavy,
il il is richly lined and finished, is not half
that of seal skin.
The new fur garments, however, adapt
them selves to varying tastes and fashions.
The boa is revived, but IS not 80 long as
formerly and is shaped slightly to the
neck the longhair falling over 80 as TO give
a more graceful effect than that OF the old,
round, shOrt-haired boa.
There are small nantes, with and with
out sleeves; nantes that are short upon
the back and straight like yisite; and
others that deepen and form q basque.
Some have fringe Of tails, Others a Dor.
der in a different fur; seal with border
OF beaver or otter obtaining the prefer
ence and contrasting best with the rich
old gold, brown or straw berry satin lin.
ing. The long-haired furs, lynx, fox,
hair and otter. are naturally untitled for
whole garments, excepting capes, NUTS
and boas; but they make beautiful TRIM
mings, and are in greater demand than
any OF the close, short furs. such as
beaver and otter, the softness ana beauty
of which, however, insure them a CLIENTELE
of their own.
Muffs are very small. and the latest
,nuoh foe rnufTa and hOaa ia the head nT