Evening star., 1886-10-30

i for indoors and some cloth walking dresses was
handsSme lace dresses, a besh black and wSite' SDms
are simply gathered over the silk or satin
bons being the more generally employed. But
the newest evening dresses display more
| broidered gauze, tuIIe or lace Is made over
satin with plated satin panel, front or part Of
| drapery united in the design with the thin
| the diaphonous material, and the double, shell
| shaped sleeves, caught up in the center, are
entirely OF this fabric, with loops or bows OF
ribbon, which emphasize the height upon the
shoulder Feathers AT used also, and birds
TO the shame OF the wearers, be it said, for in
these days. when every one reads who can,
ignorance and thOughteSsness are no longer
excuses for inhumanity.
THE REDINGoTE DRESS
figures largely among imported styles. 1t Is
usually made In wool and combined with
velvet, In quite novel fashion, which is Rus.
sian In its picturesque effect. The back OF the
body is cut with spring, and to it the skirt is
gathered, sewed and turned over, so that IL
hangs straight and full in large folds, which
sometimes with side flaps which may or may
not conceal pockets; or they will show q flap on
the right side and a broad, sash end of velvet
fronts are bOrdered with velvet put on with
herring-bone stitch In red or yellow silk. The
late design, showing also, under the dark sur
face, specks of the same bright color. The pet
tIcoat may be of velvet or OF wool. bOrdered
and striped down the front, with bands of vel
vet put on with herring-b bone stitch to match
the finish on the fronts of the redingote. The
enect Is simple, but striking and distinguished.
III ought To be worn with Russian cap OF vel
vet.
The hand finish of embroidery in beads, silk
or wool Is still the finest touch which can be
put upon velvet aud wool; but the work is now
executed In straight lines or is employed an
9bSan WAY of putting on mat velvet
simple, old-ashiOned stitches, are found also
woven into some of the imported fabrics as an
edge to velvet and plush stripes, or form clus-
tered lines of color upon neutral surface.
Although dotted and hairy and tufted cloths
ariv are IN the majority. they Fave not entirely
imported dress, or rather one brought over by a
lady who has just returned from Europe, was
ity. 1t was made with a broad band at the foot
and a "beefeater" yoke of mahogany cOlOred
velvet. The sleeves were slightly full, and
gathered into cuff OF the velvet. Yoke and
cuffs We're covered by Henry VIII collar and
cuffs of antique point.
tainment given by the Princess Of Wales con-
sisted OF skirts OF ecru tinted tulie, over satin
surah OF the same shade, caught up here and
and enameled butterflies and other flies. The
bodice was of sOfted kid, undressed, and out
lined with dull gold beads, the exact shade of
the kid. The sleeves were formed OF festoons
OF the beads, and there were festoons also in
front OF the low cOrsage.
This same lady received as a gift from Lady
Randolph Churchill the badge of tine "Prm.
rose League. II consists OF IA primrose in en-
amel, natural form, size and color, upon dark
green leaf, also enameled,
Perhaps the most magnificent dress in this
lady's outfit was Ruben's red plush: the bodice
and train cut in one, the front OF figured velvet
upon dark, ricn, red satin, the plaitings of
which tlled in the battiemented edge upon the
front of the skirt and the plain edge OF the
train. These piaitings were supplemented by
others, in masses OF fine Mechlen lace. The
plush bodice was cut low and pointed The
front OF figured velvet displayed AN open work
1APy- NON
nihcent effect repeated upon the skirt The
bodice was draped In gathered berthe fashion,
with ruby Grape.
FEATHER TRIMMINGS
ha We been very much used through the autumn
months upon small manties TOR between sea-
sons. With the approach OF colder weather fur
will come into play; and already it occupies a
conspicuous place in tine show rooms OF the
great outfitters. The fur trade, however, as a
business Tor retail dealers not at all what it was
formerly. 'Sets'' OF furs have almost disap-
peared. Few collars or capes are called ior and
The large, FUR cioahs-though SO costly-are a
deluslon ana snare; only endurable in the
coldest weather and requiring to be supple
mented by other wraps better fitted Tor general
wear.
Fur trimmings. on the contrary, are practical
and may be cheap or costly, according to the
limits of the pocket book. They are adapted
and can be readily utilized by intelligent, even
though unframed, fingers.
cloth dress jacket and muf needs only q
bordering oi fur TO give il d look of comfort and
even distinction, which cannot be so easily or
inexpensively Outained by any other means. A
plain Ulster, ifjt is well cut aud edged with fur
becomes a stylish garment, and 18th III u Ii I'D ade
to match or matching the fur, will tell no tales
OF the small sum out of which it has perhaps
been obtained.
The lOng-haired furs-fox, lynx, bear called
Labrador, aud the like-are preferred TO
smooth skins, except beaver and the silky
otter; the latter, however, is more used for men
imam Women-gentlemen, apparently, liking
the soft warmth OF the high otter collar, which
mugs them close about the throat. Beaver is
and pretty gray tint. 1t is especially becoming
to, and Is Iavorite with, young girls, and the
leo, OF DARK gray blue, cloth suit, with narrow
edge OF beaver fur and complete beaver muff
and cap, are among the pretIiest costumes OF
the season. Tue buttons, it may be remarked,
represent small, old, silver coins, and il the
wearer wants TO add the latest touch to her
street Oufht she will add dark, red, leather
pocket book, mounted with old silver
Ladies VINO like IOx furs-and there are none
more elegant or eiiective-shoufd he careful to
adapt the kind 10 the material and color with
which 1t Is to be united. 1t Is a common thing
TO say that some special 1ur is the fashion, as
silver iox for example. Silver fox is the NEST
expensive kind OF lox fur; but it does not look
Well ON brown cloth or velvet; and not at all SO
we'll OH dark shades of red as gray fox, which
has yellow in it; or beaver, which Is in soft
shades OF gray and brown.
Among the prettiest novelties in furs are long
haired boas, In light, yeliowish, fox furs with
mum to match. The long, silky, yet fluffy hair,
Is the most iuXufious looking thing Imaginable
and the most becoming, as ii lays up against
the throat and iaiis from it upon dark wine
colOfed clOtn or velvet Black lynx is perhaps
the most beautiful OF the black 1urs when it is
genuine; but the genuine iurs are always high
priced. The dyed limitations pass with The fg-
norant. They are q necessity with some who
know, but cannot afford the best; and they rid
Us OF some household pests wuo thus make up
IN death Tor the mischief they make in life.
CLOAKS AND WRAPS.
The choice in cioaks this season lies between
the very large and the very small; they either
enVelop the entire person only reach "a little
below the waist line. Neither OF these stvles
can De considered youthful, and they are not
looked upon with iavor by girls who still oc-
cupy the bOrder-land between youth and
wonanhood. The tavOrite garment for these is
cut even with the front and sides, and slightly
doubie-breasted. The iayorite color is "A soft
lawn shade oi brown; the nulsh, stitching and
straight, high collar and cuffs oil beaver fur. A
border Of beaver also follows the semi diagonal
down the iront. The buttoDs may be smoked
interior edges are laced with silk, but the cloth
is iurred on the reverse side and requires no
lining.e
Ladies who select pattern and make up
their own wraps should be careful to adapt it to
The ngure. A tail person will find that model
'front.' will suit her far better than a bijou de-
sign, which may suit admirably some small
uellcate miniature of q woman.
yellow ana brown furnish the KEY note to
the coIors OF the season; yellow entering more
or less into all mixtures OF color, and sup
brown, mahogany brown, copper brown and
the whOie range OF red browns, unite with
sAaues or lines Ol yellow, much better than the
coal leai or wood browns; which OF late are as
sociated with old blue instead OF forest green
s,s formerly.
WAS Worth VIII ars+