The midland journal. (Rising Sun, Md.) 1885-1947, 1886-11-26

high waist that has V of black or
brown velvet in front, three inches
wide at the neck, with the point at
waist line; the cashmere is laid in
three folds each side Of the V, and
is plain on the lining elsewhere, with
small fiat black velvet buttons to
fasten it behind. The sleeves are
plain to the elbow. and puffed below
into a velvet wrist-band an inch
wide. Black velvet piping folds a
fourth of an inch wide around the
waist. Standing cashmere collar
Two widths of cashmere make the
skirt. with hem three inches deep,
gathered to the waist all around, or
else two double box pleats in front.
with gathered back. Another style
has square plastron of velvet, with
pleats, below it in front, and also
pleats in the back of the waist.
Another plain waist has braid two
inches wide set in to outline square
guimpe. Many of these dresses are
made with low.Decked waists and no
sleeves, or else half long sle' VS.
merely piped with velvet, to Wear
over guimpes of the same cashmere
or of white muslin, or else with
white jersey Of thick wool that has
collar and cuffs of the velvet of con.
trasting color used for revers or
plastron of the dress.
The leg of:mutton sleeves are seen
on these dresses and on cloaks Of
cashmere, made full in the armhole.
and tucked lengthwise from elbow
to wrist, where they are held in a
narrow velvet cuff. Others have the
Marguerite puff at the elbow or at
the armhole, and there are also bish.
ops sleeves gathered at top and bot,
tom, i,h n velvet wristband only an
inch wide when finished, turned back
on the sleeve. or buttoned on the
inside of the arm.
The Normandy cloak and cap are
worn by the smallest girls. The
cloak is of cashmere-brown. blue
or red-warmly wadded throughout
and is similar to the Mother Hub
bard, but has pointed yoke piped
with velvet, and high velvet puffs
around the armholes and neck. The
cap has velvet front, with very
high cashmere crown, shirred across
the back, or else the materials are
reversed, the velvet serving for the
crown. The Bebe cloaks. with very
short waist, cape, and full gathered
skirt reachiag to the heels; are made
this winter of nice cloths in stripes,
or melange of colors, or else of
plush, corduroy, or velvet. White
cloaks of thick moutonne, or lambs
wool cloth, arc made in this way, or
else with a yoke and box pleats.
and trimmed with natural beaver or
other brown fur, white with brown
being in great favor for small child
rem. The leg of-mutton sleeves are
seen on some white Sicilienne or
cashmere cloaks, while others have a
hood or deep round collar that is
almost cape.
Dresses with over-skirts are not
put On until girls are in their teens,
except on unusual tall girls of ten
or twelve years. The English frocks
are sometimes varied for girls of
eight or ten years by having the
sides of the front continuous, in
princesse fashion, with the middle
of the front pleated it's entire length
or else cut off in round waist. with
velvet vest above, and revers,
while the trout of the skirt in fan
pleating; that is, side pleats meeting
in the middle. English serge and
French chuddah cloths are used for
these dresses, and plush, either plain
or striped, may take the place of
velvet for the accessories.
The dresses of larger girls and
misses, have either a kilt or box
pleated skirt, with some slight drap-
cry. are worn over small pad bust
lie. The jacket waist is slashed,
pleated, or looped behind to spring
over the hustle smoothly, and the
front is the only elaborate part, be-
ing supplied with vest, of some
kind, usually in Breton fashion, in
one piece, buttoning down the left
side. This vest is made up of vel
vet, of pleated wool, gathered surah
or tucked surah, with bands and
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