New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-12-19
PARIS FASHIONS.
THE CLOTHES OF QUEENS AND ACTRESSES

[FRoM AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRrBuNEl
PARIS, Nov 90
Winter fashions which for the last six weeks have been
uctuating between trial and adaptation. have at last
been definitely settled for the Bonnets are worn
smaller than last year. allowing barely more space
than wanted for the high trimming perched In front;
they are worn little forward and always have
strings tied the side and ornamented with small pin,
diamond dv or q small pearl which jewellers manufact
for the purpose Hats have no longer the Renaissance
cut garnshed with long ostrich feathers the faithful copies
of the Joshua Reynodses and the Van Dykes they have
assumed q SITTER masculine shape, with broad,
straight brims hgh stiff crowns, and equally stiff bird
WINGS ribbon tuft Of short tips OF ostrich featn
ers toque between bonnet and hat is one OF
Madame virots speciaes. The crown Is made elongated
and soft and trimmed In front not quite so high as nat or
bonnet Mile. Berther, who lay claim to the ute
mllnerfo artists has just had array Of headgcar
on exhibition which she is about to send to noted singers
and actresses who often cited being distinguished
in dress Marie Van Zsndt who remained few weeks In
the capital on her way Cannes, ordered toque OF
beigecoth lying concentric folds the crown, and
trimmed in front with quantity twisted scarlet
velvet bow stuck through with large span
ish gold pin Madame Krauss, who has just
arrived Italy create the role or Dolores In Pala
dihes opera, Patrie." wears becoming capote
made OF Russian blue plush interminged with trans
parent bands of old gold embroidery The front Is com
posed bands OF blue ostrich feathers with turf OF
tips relieved with high loops OF OLD gold ND
bon Madame Ffdes Devres, for her London season
ordered a high seal-brown felt hat over which beige
cloth chu covered with medalons of white applique lace
was gracefully thrown the stiff ends OF the hchu,
with two pink wings formed the high front trimming
small brown muf TO match had handkerchief OF beige
tied loosely around with ends meeting under more pink
WINGS An evening bonnet belonging to Mile Richard OF
the Grand Opera had two rows of real aencon lace FORM
ing Marie Stuart point the crown was entirely COM
| ~ Uhi q
waered ribbon which formed bow under the chin the
front fastened with crescent or diamonds As so many
shades are in gowns the head covering must Dc
made TO match and bonnet for every dress Is the pres
emit imperative order of fashion Strings are worn on all
| capotes.
Long cloas falling to the bottom Of the Dress princess
stye are not in as great favor here last year Ladies
prefer the shorter plush garments which In themselves
very ornamental and provide for the display OF ee-
gantly fashioned dress skirts The Queen OF Italy mas
lust ordered several superb plush garments from Worth
She Is said TO the best dressed woman In Europe and
therefore her toilets much cited Among these wraps
was sealskin plush short In the back, and with long
front panels gathered ends and finished of with
long tassels of brown beige chenille aud old gold ouon
The wide sleeves lined with old gold Satn; the
whole garment bordered with heavy passementry
Of fine brown chenille and old god in front plush rerers
| opened upon q vest or Swedish leather Gov
cred with old gold embroideries One to wear
with a helotrope plush dress short gar
ment half yiste half dolman 1t made OF heliorope
| satin covered with antique Venetian gnpure'
drawn and embroidered with threads OF gold It had epa
les and Medcs collar OF old gold gpure and an old gold
motif" in front, ending with cord and tasel OF the
ssme precious metal Worth sashes most OF these g.r
ments in the back so as to allow for pufings.
rue new opera cloaks made long 10 envelop the form
| are lined entirely with the longfurred white Thibet
this aeecy lining extends the velvet plush and
forms collar, bands down the sides and cuffs on the
| sleeves superb one, made by Worth for Russian
princess OF Persian fabric Of the dull red and blue
heavily wrought In silver and god over the edges OF
the Thibet fur fell agulletes made in passementry t.
match the Persian stuff the passementries formed
the Louis XIV. collar. Clasps OF old gold fastened
| the garment down the front
The traditional cashmere shawl which was formally
considered indispensable part OF adys ousseau mas
been lately replaced by assortment Of expensive furs
the sealskn cloak for usual wear that fur is always
considered demi toilette in France valuable bands OF
marten for the trimming of calling garments and chin
| chla for evening cloaks
Every one IL aware that French ladies don very simple
and sonbre costumes the and eccen
tricity carriage and home wear street suit which
Worth has Just made for of the exiled prncesses
merits description. The simple short skirt is OF plum
coored velvet which Is draped cloth tunc OF the
same this tunic disposed in large pointed reoe
in the which covered with black braidng II
arabesque designs and heavily shot with nnumerablt
small black buttons The corsage Is copy OF those WORT
by the Flemish women of the Holben me pointed anC
has brading closely running up and down, terminating
I'm loops below the bodice heightened they rest on The
bps Jacket TO match is tighthtting on the back
thckly braided and shot with buttons. IL has wide col
lar and cuffs of Asrakan. The toque OF plumcolore'
cloth Is bound with Astrakan and has bow of velvet
the side with large pin chiseed old gold stuck through
1t is tied with velvet strings.
A tea gown worn by Queen Marguerite of Italy has
long train made after the style Louis XVI Merve
| leuse orc q
sian cloth Of yariegaed dull coOrs, siken and gold I'M
rails over skirt of ivory satin studded with precou
Jewels of all the oriental hues. The schumacher OF th
same has pointed belt OF gold nigree studded "it
, | oriental cap on her blonde head.
A travelling costume by the Princess Waldema
OF Denmark has a chinchila cloth overdress made on
ak nate skirt the back drapery In the form OF the i've
ends OF shawl gracefully fall In cascades rom IN
corsage down front is looped high on the LEFT an.
fastened with large bow and long ends OF ehnchla vel
vet The jersey corsage plain with collar and Gun OF e
vet this the Princess wears cloak OF dark crn
son CLOTH the color OF the Denmark bazonry TINS gar
ment heavily trimmed with black galoons aud Drade
passementry tOque Is OF the cloth pinked AM
resting on black velvet large bow OF black ribbon orna
mens the front Her suite OF servants wear livery OF IN
same colors This heradic red now the rage epecia
A handsome toilet has cotn skirt Of pearl gray
front garnished the sides with panels
striped plush OF the same and lighter shade Oh gray ln
effective satin lining OF these panels Is reVeaeu a MIN I
movement Of walking The cloth corSage is aced IN th
back and has high neckband OF plush around when
OF ancient silver medals The cloth toque irres
uary crushed into a soft crown, bound In plush an
twined with gray wings With this costume IN Ine car
rtae is worn conspirators cloak or the same ciotI
Lnother gown has gathered skirt OF heotrope velvet
and an oyerdress OF heotrope cloth bound WIN viz
ovcrress on the left The Of helotrope clot
has plsstron plush. An officers collar OF sealskh
fastened with small chaln anu TWO Heuais vi an1q"
The seasEin toque has large bow OF seal ribbon and
helotrope agrette heold style mantle OF seslshln
lined with heliotrope satin wide gring OF the sai
edges the lining aud protrudes to set of the FUR
---
, THE ICE WAS BROKhN
From The HarfteeH t6e-l sun: .,.