The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1886-09-26
SUMNER CORRESPONDENCE.
MFRS. aouGAR I'M soorLANp.


Pleasures and Displeasures.
Correspondence of the Indianapolis journal.
EDINBURe, August, 1861 had seen so much
poverty, along with the beautiful scenery of Ire
land, that / determined to shut my eyes to every
thing but the charming and romantic in Scot
land. 1t had been raining in Belfast nearly all
the day, but the steamer was to leave for Glas-
gov at o'clock in the evening, and must go.
I found large party Of American tourists
on board, bound for the same city,
and jolly crew we were. AS the
miserable little craft sailed down the. river and
out of the bay the clouds lifted and the bright
rays of the sun shone out as If to reflect the
charming beauty Of Belfast With her mountain
OF green background and invite US to return to
the Emerald isle.
The boat was overcrowded, and consequently
more uncomfortable than it would otherwise
have been. l wondered that so little enterprise
is shown in this line of packets and the comfort
of passengers so neglected as in the case the
trip from Belfast to Glasgow. There were
large number of old men on board returning
from the conference of Presbyterian ministers
held In Londonderry. These men were magnif-
cent specimens of muscular development and
had thai spiritual air about them that reminded
me of "Uncle Bijah who burnt up the cards and
ungodly fiddle of his SON Tim aud whose spirit
ual development had reached such perfection
that he had not laughed for fifty years
snickered for nigh onto forty" The religion Of
Scotch Presbyterian is as sure and fixed as the
Highland Businesses of his rugged country.
1t was risky place for a frisky American
dude, as we soon saw. A Scotchman is manner
ly and decorous, and keeps his feet where they
belong an American don't care where he is, or
in whose company he may be, he is polite if it is
perfectly comfortable for him to be so, and he
keeps his feet down only when there is no place
higher than the floor for him to put them upon.
An American entered the saloon and raised his
feet to the top of the table. sturdy old Scotch
man glanced over his spectacles at the
soles of the boots and grunted out: "No, sir,
am rot in need of boots. Boot business, are We?
Cheap way of advertising, ehl' The American
looked at the Scotchman as if he had not
understood what he said. Soon another
companion. and another, joined him. when
the bottoms of six boots adorned the
table. This was too much for endurance;
the Scotchman growled out: 'Such manners
Wn0Q
and there is no shame in them; as l am not in
need of boots, will not see the table l eat from
put TO such usc" / was able to find out the
Scotch opinion of American travellers in the con-
versation that followed. / doubt not but the
ancestors OF this mannerly man did their share
in beheading Covenanters
At 10 o'clock at night I read with ease out on
deck, and at no time during the night did the
rays of the sun seem to entirely disappear AT
early morning we sailed into the Clyde, past its
haoo al han lIC cd cd witt hrioh
neared the docks amid the CHATTER of countless
hammers playing upon the iron ribs and sides Of
the many ships that are in process of construct
ion and repair The river IS so narrow and
crowded for some distance out of Glagow that
the greatest care is necessary to pilot q boat In
and out OF port with safety.
Glasgow is smoky, busy and historically inter
esting. Her Cathedral and metropolis well re-
pay the visitor for the time spent within her
borders peculiarinterest attaches to this Cathe-
dral from it's being the only ecclesiastical ediice
of note, with one exception. that has been
handed down in its original estate Il dates its
origin to the the sixth century, and plays
an important part in the history of the re-
lieous conflicts of Scotland It's length
Is $40 feet. The vast length of the vista,
formed by the nave and choir with the lofty
vault overhead the many clustered columns
and arches the large and many beautiful, costly
stained glass memorial windows produce a
strange impression of solemnity and magnifcence.
A walk through its dark. musty
s1n yps the over bur its naees
of saints and sinners makes one
realize the worthlessness of mans attempt to
commemorate himself in stone. The old church
yard about 1t is interesting for its ancient slabs
and Monuments, while just back of it all. rising
terrace above terrace. is the picturesque necrop-
oils, that towers so high above the surrounding
buildings that it is always IN sight from any
part of the city; it's magnificent monuments
looking down into the busy marts of trade as If
20 Init ia all Of Hfp tn
The day perfect for ride through the
Highlands, made famous by the romance and
poetry of Scott and interesting as the home of
Rob Roy and the scenes Of his daring exploits.
An hour from Glasgow by rail and we set sail in
beautiful little steamer for ride of thirty miles
on Loeb Lomond. Its water Is clear as
a mirror. which seems to reflect the numerous
islands that sit here and there, things of beauty
adding to the general charm of all about on the
one side. towering high above, is Ben Lomond
1903 feet while on the other is Ben A'an, with
rugged and Jagged tops reaching 1851 feet.
There are many villas nestled costly under the
shadows of these bold peaks, looking out upon
the bosom of the lake or upon the heath, clad
with trees, vines, ferns and wild myrtle. It is
from these rocks and wild hooks that the scenes
OF the Lady of the Lake" are supposed to be
pictured.
At the north end of Lomond, Jersey cars drawn
by six horses, waiting tourists, and drive
OF five miles over a road as smooth as a floor,
Swallowed on the one side with overhanging
rocks, on the other with verdure-clad heath or
crystal waters, takes US to the place where we
embark on the Rob Roy crazy little steamer,
for ride Of nine miles on Loeb Katrne. Along
Che sides OF this narrow lake we are shown the
cottage where 1t is claimed that Rob Roy mar
riSd his wife, whose chief occupation ever after
seemed to be watching for her lord to return
to her, shot all to pieces in return for his free
booting daring Ellen's Isle and the cave of Rob
Roy are also passed. A day spent in these wild
glens whets the appetite for re-reading of
alca a he
force Of the lines:
Through the depths OF Loeb Katrine steeds shall
career
Ger she peak of Ben Lomond galeys shall steer
And the rocks of Craig Royston like icicles melt.
Ere wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfet."
Elegant hotels are found at convenient stages.
and many, with hook and line, or books and
hammock. take their summer outing in these