New-York tribune., 1886-02-22

| COTTON AND WOOL GOODS FOR SUMNER Wp.p
YELLOW THE POPULAR CoLoR-CoLLARs AN,
| TRAININGS.
Simplicity of dress is a superstition of tho
past and the dress OF to day, giving also bnts OF the
coming toietes is so excessively elaborate that pen
description is almost impossible The styles nearly
all historic Louis XIV. vests arranged In a great
MANY fashions haEc0neeaed, half-reveaed by the
waist opening upon sde again as generally worn in
masculine style with cuaway basque, the plain waist
coat closely following the form aud there are severely
plain shirt fronts OF finest linen buttOned at pleasure
with small pearl shirt buttons or studs linen cuffs
respond and the fashionable high standing collar is
eyed with delicate lace batste tie French audacity
or Inconsistency insists upon these nigh standing col
lars on the toette regardless OF the length OF the neck
a tint of bright color is seen Just peepng
above the edge. This fashion gives a rather
stiff. military aspect to the dress, but
Is relieved in feminine way with the pretty, bright
color Of ribbon in. which is OF satin pcotedged
grain or plated ribbon having delicate
satin stripes Ribbons will form most important part OF
the new dresses watered PLAIN. grosgran gauze satin
striped and plain nutterng IN bows aud hOatlng ends
Cravat bows arranged I'm charming knots overa lace
pastron vest in cockade rosettes for the har and
already described just seen above the edge OF tho
close dogcoar aud this style Of close collar is made
more graceful in appearance In three four loops and
pointed ends Of ribbons.
COSTUMES FOR WARNER WEATHER.
exhibitions Of cotton goods show the return OF
exqusitey soft French satnes. delcatey silky IN
pearance the India fabrics. in coors OF pale blue.
and cream. initiating the India silks I'm their de-
signs which mostly Oriental branches OF foliage rose
vines arabesques and palms. again ther is another
rety small figures OF Greek and Indian hieroelyphs
and confusion Of small crescents arrows ridents shells
and horns. These fabrics are made with all the
elaboration given to the Indian and other SOFT thin
summer silks The sleeves intended for the time when
In ia
enough to promise GOODNESS, avoiding the Oldtme flow
ing style yet sufficiently wide to expose the nearly
to the elbow.
tits a source OF congratuatIon that the hideous bat
wing shoulders In which every woman was defOrmed
and which really were introduced by leader of fashion
the Continent who had shoulder much higher than
the other are at last abandonet aud shoulders VIII DO
allowed TO take the shape given by nature; and tho
shoulders OF American women are mostly deicately
pretty aud slOplng
Fashion ia also amiably inclined in regard to dra-
peres and tabllers. which may be extremely tnll
and long or short, to suit the h1ure I@neks @
whose petite too rotund figures pro-
test against ruiles and founces which decrease tho
height and Increase th' size IL Is always saie TO pat
rOnze the long wrnked apron that retains It's hold each
the home edged with WIDE narrow lace
happy combination of colors sad material Is continued
THE REIGN or YELLOW.
Since great artist has decided yellow is becOm-
ing blondes, most unjustly despsed color in its
various shades has become extremely fash enable Long
faces safely the pure and beautiful dande-
ZION and buttercup shades and there is yellow
more OF topaz tawny shade for an older complex.
Brunettes Of pronounced type weer tue greensh
yellow OF alemon blossom, jonquil dafod, which
make skin appear shade farer there is be-
sides buff duh yellow. The effect VI this color Is
very beautiful when artsticaly combined with
another and one out OF two coors should
always DO dun and too pure Yellow
must be the pure tint in whatever combination
IL chosen otherwise the result hIdeOus Pale yellow
OF the purest shade has admirable effect when skill
fully arranged with purple, especially II the purple Is
plush or velvet and the other satin Yellow Grape and
silk form agreeable combination. one Is dull Is
iIlumned by the other therefore the shades be
slightly different; with this JacquemnOt roses may be
The gosasner treble or double fris OF finest
six or Grape blessings in disguise for too
long too short neck. Either style is fashionabe
still latter requires extreme The close
OF red yellow blue or pink Grape next 10 the skin Is
not always becoming There should always be the intro
ducOn Of some soft misty tue lace OF even an edge OF
white linen 10 relieve the complexion Among other ex-
rather past middle in purple and lilac making
penance by being hidrOus destroying whatever Of fair
frightened with delicate bne and soft yelowish crepe
lisse. Nor shond she be allowed excepting by her
mics, TO Dc trimmed or dressed in dismal cold gray.
Canvas COSTUMES.
Etamine the rather coarse canvas fabrics reappear
this season. Robe costumes consist OF skirt Of creamy
tinted canvas heavily embroidered nearly up to
the waist with brown and white small design
is on the basque and sleeves Other styles are
embroidered all with small figures. A plain
rough fabric called crocodile cloth Is mostly
In drab Grape cloth in both rather smooth and roughly
knotted In drsb and in creamy white covered with
large struggling olive trees and branches Others have
equally large Oriental devices in OF brown. blue
and red; also quaint irregular designs Of waving lines
and broken lines duplicated in wine-color pale blue
delicate browns and the MIkado patterns in
porceaine blues of different shades. Another
variety OF wool fabrics is the velours etamine,
canvas striped with velvet about ono
inch wide. There are others with wider stripes The
colors show "a marked contrast such red and blue,
red green, brown and red, blue and brown brown
aud beige. BrOch6, frise and bOuc g effects
stripes and in necks on these canvas materials, and
another new wool material has the appearance being
worked IN stripes OF rich cOOred wool The popularity
goods the increase, aud thero
srmcuteres that promise nearly to cover the front
side OF dress skirt. These ara exceedingly
rich and massive without beads. The
take the shape in some examples OF fretted
pnnaces domes, network OF bamboo, taperng spires
the fir tree regularly taperng from base 10 tip, fan
shapes pyramids, butterflies ana birds and all manner
Of ara6esques E1qGlstely beautiful Canton grapes
very elaborltely embroidered are combined with
plain Grape used for Overdresses, the full
folds OF this elegant fabric falling more grace
fully than those OF any other kind Heir
looms m the way OF Canton Grape embroidered shaws
appreciated and perfectly correspond
with Eastern jcwelry and flowers. particularly the
hairpius placed in the loop and twists OF hair.
OF transparent shell set with pearls and gems,
or decorated with gold devices. enamel and hoops OF
and gold Where the hair ia not heavy several
these pins thrust through IL without the assistance
OF a comb Just unkempt locks are rather desired
and allowed to stray In graceful disorder.
Messrs T.. j. DennIng * Co., Lord * Taylor, H.
ONeill, James McCreery & Co. and Theodore b. Starr
viii please accept thanks for attention.
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SPRING STYLES IN HATS.