Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-06-05

4 NOW, the summer tourist from New York
/ goes to Europe with steamer trunk (which
| contains a neat travelling dress) and q satchei.
The dress is put on before landing and It's place
taken by the dress worn on board the steamer
and the steamer wraps and rugs; 1t Is then con-
signed to the steamer office and the tourist goes
ainnS Oh cbans o winn 1n h con
waist and skirt of grey checked linen, the essen
| tial toilette articles and small whisk brush.
The absence of fiounces and draperies Is an
| Immense advantage in travelling; not only in
the saving of risk and trouble but OF space. A
tucked. or plated linen skirt in clouded hair
stripe or small check with tucked plated
waist will be iound infinitely more useful and
buster or ulster; while it is an unspeakable
comfort for railroad travelling upon warm sum-
mer days. Over Ii, the ulster OF tweed can be
placed AS evening comes on, and 1t is presenta-
bic enough for wear at table, II necessary.
The dotted American surahs introduced this
season specially for travelling purposes are
pretty and useful, but they are bet
ter >uited To short trips to Newport and Sara
toga than TO the wear and tear of q summer
abroad. Such a toilet is, however, convenient
10 nave for hotel wear and when stay ing sew
era days In a foreign city; and IL simply made
as 1t should be- with straight, full back, draped
'front.'. sides plated or trimmed lengthwise, and
high bodice, with couple Cor change) of vest
1rontS-one silk, one lace-may be packed flat
In the elastic satchel
In any OF the large cities-London and Paris
speclaiiy-any thing can be bought at a mo-
nents notice, and 1t Is not therefore worth
while TO carry what is not absolutely wanted.
All places too, large and small, have their
specitiIicS Oh manuIacture, ana as they
often excellent in quality, at a comparatively
low cost, there Is great pleasure in buying aud
using them.
Even To some who do not go abroad, and to
whom money Is no object summer brings
added pleasure. From the absence oil necessity
Ior gauglns dress BY an absolutely conventional
ruie OF standard. Tuere is nothing more wear
ing than Icing always on exhibition, and equal,
not 10 one own, but other peoples demands.
THOUSANDS OF women long ardently Tor SUM
mer, because they can pack away their line
ciotnes, so into the country, be relieved from
Soeiety, get ac4uain ted with their children
ana ENJOY life in q flannel suit and cotton
sac4ue.
COURAGE OF CONVICTION.
Inc American woman always wishes to be
equal TO the occasion and there is probably no
country in the world where fashion holds the
majority OF women in stronger letters than this;
but IL must be admitted that the maniiest.,-
lions OF all independent spirit are daily becom-
ihs mole frequent There are dressnIaKers to
pc Iound now WHO are designers who have the
SJurd9e OF Intelligent conviction, aud will
itahe IA graceful dress of cheap material, yet SO
Veil cuL and combined that il does not look
<cletp. One OF the most original OF these
GENTLY made a Charming evening dress ior
young glrl-finding the materiai-iur fifteen
aoiiars. Ii seemed incredible, Tue effect WAS SO
good. 1t consisted of Madras muslin, ecru and
pale blue upon Cream ground, over a pale
blue Cheese cloth. IL Was made with short,
gathered waist and straight skirt, with big
W" oi the cheese ciOth the back. The saline
artist took u golden brown SHADOW" silk-.,n
Aneric.,n prod uctiou-and made it upon the
Wrohs slice, the tOues being darker and much
richer; coinblEins IL with a golden brown Uei-
Outte, IN order To get The Depth o. tone req uired
ana which could not lie obtained irOm u Surah.
ON THE RIVER.
The tailor-made suit for summer wear-walk,
Ing. yachting, boating, excursions and the like
has revived the open, pointed vest and
small "habit' shirt with narrow, standing or
turu-down Collar anu Tie. The vest admits Of
several changes. For example: one OF the ma
tcriai one OF corded six (Seii-cOlOr), one of
white pique and one oil butt or leather coored
kid, flushed in embroidery stitch with en-
OroIdeiy silk.
Among the novelties exhibited by Redfern
are uistcrs OF white wool lined with satin and
finished with standing collar, cults and edge 10
lappeis oI wine-coored or brown velvet. Wraps
ior the race, are oi etamine, striped with vel
vet-ruby upon strlng coIOr. A Capuchine hood,
open Ike a wall pocket springs from the iuil-
uess AT the waist, the skirt is full and the
sleeves slightly moving. IL is lined with soft
twilleu silk or satin. A Russian hood, the
mo0el Tor which was received as a gilt from
Tie Empress OF Russia lior whose benefit and
That "a some Oh the ladies Of her court, u
iorce OF twenty tive expert designers, cut
Cowes and the Paris house 10 ST. Peters
burg Is interesting, because yenu-
ine example of the graceful covering Tor
mead or shoulders or both worn by
russian ladies OF rank. 1t is square wrap,
which, when placed upon the shoulders, forms
a SQUARE cape, win hood ana tasseiled points.
L he ends are long and rounded aud are thrown
over the shoulders. The origInal-sent by the
Empress-is Oh white wool, eAquisitely embIOId-
n
pretty tennIs costumes for Newport are IN
striped cOIton-grey-blue and white or red aud
wnlte-with overuresses OF grey or white butch
ers' linen; made with low, round butchers bibs,
suspended by strap round the neck and at
tached To wide side panels over the straight
striped skirts; iull, but innocent OF founce or
'drapery. The iluen Is ''herrlng- bnned'' with
linen thread as u border, i'll the color OF the
stripe OF the dress. When striped goods are
USED Tor borders or bands, they are cut on the
bias and band of the same used TO trim the
straw hat Pretty grey cottons trimmed
band about three inches deep placed Just above
the hem. The full vest i, set iu u little round
Yoke, Top and bottom, finished with Two uar-
row lands OF the stripe, and u wider stripe out
lines IL ana Iorms the OeIt.
PAKAsoLs.
New parasols show two large handkerchiefs
Of lace, on figured, yet transparent grenadine.
iaid one over another and forming eight points,
Two rows OF lace, one above another, make q
Ticn, ueep Lace; the color, ruby, creaiu or black
matching the tint vi the cover. The handles
are tue slender, natural hoOfs OF goats or deer:
or they are OF natural wood, carved under aud
upon the surface, 81 as To produce white (piLnl.
bark brown ana cameo effects.
Inc straw sailor hats, rather higher in the
crown, rather broader III L.ie briin tuan line
sailor nat, formerly used, are an English pro-
0uciion aud are not To be founu in Paris, where
Tue hiSn. steepie-crown, tower, as higu as ever.
Out are improved In shape and ~ the briin
wuIcn IS sun narrow, but now slightly rolled
up and wioeneu To one Sue.
Recent I'M POI ted bOnneLs are dainty affairs
lnade Ga tinted tulIe or very light g;iuZe EN-,
broIuered with goid, with great reiIuem,,nt in
cOiOrs, and nDisned with Embroidered edge IN
lndtcu. lne trimming consists uprg hi Icons
oi love nDDoI, Wall. picot edge anu spray of
small uowtrS, Very Tine and Liz At OH STEMS tina
quiver with every motion. Material, aud trim
lining are all vi the same 0eiicaIe tiuts-siIaues
Ol >an0 color and gold, wood brown and male
pink, ivory and Water green. lilac ana cream or
NiOiet aud grey.
Tue mvsl distinguished items of dress inst
now are tnree-trausparent Uonnet, transpar-
eni parasol and Transparent fan-the wnoe
either IN cream shades and brown or black
Inc hrst Is Tor the young women the latter for
their IlaInas Back aud gray are the UNIFORM
oil women VINO are longer young. custorn
ODllSlnS tnein 10 wear mourning Tor their de-
parted youth. notable eXampie WAS how
ever, set recently by the mother OF "A bride who
Instead OF the regulation ASH, pearl or steel
grey, wore u lovely dress o, brown and atut,er
brOcide, combined with amber satin covered
witu exquisite brown ana amber beaded EN-.
broi iery.
Dressy watering-place toilettes are distin
guisneu by u novel arrangement OF drapery
which Stimulates AN "Order.' 1t consists OF a
scarf vi EN- Orouered tui1e, lace tissue which
crosses one shoulder, and is carried down upon
the skirt, where IL iornIs ii part Of the ensemble
A toilette displayed recently produced a SINH
lar effect III sLiu more eli and nightly ar
tistic manner. The dress consisted OF erea IN
WOO, In tie form OF Princess poiouaIse
caught, rather than draped, upon one side WI til
all enamtlied Clasp, over u skirt braided in 4,
! wide gored panel, In dull blue and silver One
| shoulder OF the undertakes and the sleeves
were braided To match. the design and work.
manship 50 fine that IL looked like embroidery
Inc polonaise was sleeveless, aud its one