Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-03-24

BRETELLEs, CUFFS, AND HIGH DOG COLLARS
OF velvet, velvet straps, across full guimpes OF
blouse waistcoats. and velvet belts are used on
fine frocks of fine wash fabrics this spring.
THERE seems to be no signs of decline in the
use of beads, although the rosary and other
wooded beads will probably not remain as long
in favor as their compeers of metal or glass
Some of the newest fancies in bead work are
the collars with festoons of pearl beads and
bugles in all the evening cOlOrS well as black.
These festoons or vandykes tall from the high
beaded collar over the bodice, reaching below
the bust, and forming a rich adjunct to the
dress with which they are worn. There seems
TO be a preference tor beads without brilliancy.
Metal beads are much used for evening dresses,
some OF the bodices almost resembling coat
of mail, so profusely are the gold, silver, cop
per or steel beads used.
WATERED SILK or else faille with wide bro
caded stripe down each width is the fashionable
choice for the basque and train of full-dress tot
lettes and satin with lace for the front breadths
Young ladies wear white watered silk cut low,
and filled out with a high guimpe and sleeves
of Valenciennes piece lace, and pink ostrich
faille with an embossed blue satin stripe on
each width is used for the three breadths OF
the train, while the petticoat front is OF sivered
satin in very large flower feather designs,
cut out in scallops below, and trimmed with
loops of silver beads. The basque has the back
forms showing the striped pattern cut to taper
to the waist, while the vest and the wired col.
lar are of silver brocade. Elbow sleeves accom-
paDy these high basques. Black watered silk
favorite black toilette this winter, though
black satin with jet is by no means displaced.
NEW COSTUMES for spring and summer re-
tain the general effect OF those now worn, with
basque, bouffant skirt, and combinations of
two materials. The principal changes are in
the drapery, and in an attempt to- lengthen
short skirts, making those of street dresses
barely escape the ground, while those for the
back of skirts, instead of being abandoned, are
Increased In number from three to six, the
added ones being very short, and set in only a
few inches below the belt, so that they may
take the place of the warm hair cushion,
though this cushion is still used by many
French modistes.
ROBE FOR HOME WEAR AND MORNING RE-
CEPTIoNs consists of blouse, which initiates
an underdress, and of a princess dress. The
blouse. width of satin covered with lace and
bordered by lace fiOunce, is fastened under
the iorepart at each side. The front is made
seIf-1ttlng at the waist by dart, which is
placed under the arm. The 1ight-fitting back
furnishes all the fullness of the skirt, as the
sides are fiat. \ velvet revers graduated from
the bottom OF the skirt up to the neck trims
the front on each side. a ribbon which serves
as belt passes below the waist and ties at the
SIDE. Turned-over cuffs of velvet and wide
cape collar OF the same, falling down to the
shoulders. The tight sleeves are trimmed with
small velvet reverS.
some OF THE Mosr elegant light dresses for the
season are of soft pliable American silks in
handsome shades, printed yelling, mousselines
de laine, and tinted cashmere of the finest
french manufacture. The style adopted by the
leading "etegdntes' is n short round skirt, edged
with ruche trimmed with a killing, or a row
Oh luii lail-pleated plisses, caught up with tiny
ornaments This skirt is then draped with the
Nelilng- cashmere, or other fabric composing
the overdress, which is arranged TO show a
great deal OF the under-skirt, either by being
caught up high on the hips, open on one side,
or Raised by full pleats at each side, displaying
the entire 'front.' OF the first skirt. The backs are
either gracefully bouffant, but not revealing
much OF the underdress, or may hang in full
straight box-pleats tine whole length or nearly
SO.