Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1886-02-08
miscellaneous.
Liquor Tasters.
CLASS OF OFFICIALS THAT FLOURISH IN
SAN FRANCISCO.

ing glass of ruby liquor to the light, pre-
liminary to tasting it. That operation was
preceded BY a strong sniff at the contents of
the glass, and finally, when few drops were
sucked in and allowed to trickle down his
throat, it was with an air of profound study.
Two other gentlemen stood near, anxiously
watching every movement, as if the faster
were jury, with power to coAdemn them to
death.
The first sip seemed to dig fond memories
from the stomach of the expert, who repeate d
the operation, and then smacked his lips
mildly great many times. This unctuous
performance over, he sat down the glass with
a show of reluctance. and grayely remarked
to one of the gentlemen:
''You are right, Monsieur; the grade is as
you supposed but the value, permit me to
suggest, is somewhat greater"
This little judgment was rewarded with
gold piece, the exact denomination Of which
the Witnessing reporter could not determine.
The recipient uttered word of thanks and
then withdrew, while the reporter remained
and inquired the meaning of the queer trans
action.
One of the gentlemen, with whom he was
acquainted, laughed at the question, and then
answered it.
MY partner and | have been disputing
over the grade and value of an invoice of
brandy" he said, land we called that profess
sional expert in to settle the matter"
''What do you mean by professional ex-
pert?'
''Why a man who tastes liquors for liv-
ing They are very few IN the United States,
but in Europe it is quite a business, and the
experts charge for their services, just as do
cottor sorters, wool graders, tea-taster. and
cofiee-samplers There is not much use for
them here, because wholesalers import their
liquors already graded in Europe, and they
buy them for just what they are, The few in
San Francisco whose Judgment is uuerring
are mostly Junior partners in liquor firms
that can afford to give them an interest for
their judgment"
/ 'Is the sense of discrimination finer than
can be acquired by experience?'
: "Oh, yes it is a natural gift to a consider
cradle extent, developed, of course, by cul-
tivation, but is a business that cannot well be
impaired to another. At any rate. it seldom
is, except in Europe, where it is handed from
father to SON"
The gentleman, after this, gave the re-
porter list of half dozen casters" and a
call was made on the one that he stated was
the most expert.
The artist was found idlv blowing blue
dent enjoyment, and when made acquainted
with his callers errand, he referred to his oc-
cupstion, stating that he was not in training
at present.
Going into further explanations, the con-
noisseur stated that prior to extensive work.
such as sampling a cellar for sale. he would
have to prepare himself as an athlete would
for n contest.
For several days he would refrain from
smoking and an excess of strong rich food of
any character likely to vitiate the sense of
taste. Some of the profession limited them
selves almost to crackers and cheese the lat
ter article of diet being especially calculated
to make the palate keen.
How accurate are you in determining the
grade and age of liquor?" asked the reporter.
"Well, in regard to grade, or any first
class man at the business, can tell as exactly
by tasting rs any chemist, and even better,
for there are many valuable properties in
liquors that chemical test would not define
Age is more difficult matter, as it may be
created artfcially to all ntents and purposes,
except that of actual merit. For instance, if
| should keep bottle of spirits on that man
tie piece, aud that fire should be kept burn
ing for six months, there would be as much
age added to it as if it had been in the cellar
fo- three years. Then again, as has occurred
in this State the climate of one season may
make the vintage inferior to one year or
two later. Heat will make the grapes sugary
and too much rain will deprive them of blood
or there may be other unfavorabe conditions
that NAV cause deterioration that cannot
be made up in the year or two that may
elapse before successful harvest"
The expert here waxed enthusiastic over
the productions of his native France, and
| wnurI mr. a lapoth pulouy wit no
that the earth had to do with the flavor of
wines and liquors, and that there was as wide
difference between the products of the diff
ferent districts of France as there was be-
tween countries.
When brought back to the subject in hand,
he said that the business was more of a pro-
fesslon in Europe than anywhere else There
they were often sworn as government officers
and besides did good business. as arbitrators
in quarrles over quality and prices. In such
cases their judgment was law to the parties
employing them.
/ The grading of liquors before sending
them abroad, renders an expert almost value
less, here. as European house would never
dare to attempt to palm off an inferer arti-
Gle.
The most profitable employment they found
was in recommending stock for the cellars of
rich men, who desired the best and had not
the technical knowledge that would keep
them from paying tirst-class prices for stuff
doctored to please the taste.
as an expert good on one class of drink
ables rs another?"
"Not always. Many of the best make
speciality of one class OF liquor Still there
are many who can determine the value of
wines. as well as they can of brandies and
whiskey."
is there any method that can teach the
sense of accurate determinations"
"Well, | can't say that there is. 1t is
natural gift to a certain extent, but it has to
be cultiv ated and aided by experience, Just
the same as any profession. The taste ia a
sort of memory that fingers with one and it
is seldom extinguished by the lapse of time
Of course there are secrets in the business,
but tasters seldom impart them to any but
their descendants. If young man shows any
any aptitude for business, his father take.
him into the cellar with him as an apprentice.
and he goes through years of practice and
education before he becomes an expert When
he can taste a wine or liquor and name the
part of the world it was manufactured in. he
begins to understand the business"
"Do all have the same methodist"
Pretty much; they may vary in their
manner of detecting the qualities, but will
not TO any extent. For instance. one merely
tastes the subject and then spits it out !:
another cannot arrive at conclusion until