The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1886-07-25
IN THE HOMES OF IRELAND.
Mrs. Helen NJ. Cougars First Experience
with the People of the Emerald Isle.
Poverty in the City of Cork-A Sample Of
Irish Homes-Squalor Which Beggars
Description and Staggers Belief.
correspondence Of the 1ndianapolis yournal.

DUBLIN. July 10-Never did old ocean ap-
pear in happier moods than during my re-
cent voyage across her tickle waves. Leav-
ing New York near noon on Saturday, IN
der charming last of May day sky. just
seven days and twenty hours out, the service
landed me at Queenstown without moments
attendance of the much-dreaded eamonster,
nausea So calm and unrufled we're the waters
that much of the time not white cap" APP
peared upon the surface. AS much as desired
to see an iceberg. this luxury was denied me. as
our steamer took southerly course on purpose
to avoid these breads of the mariner. All told,
there were Yearly one thousand souls on board,
there being 400 cabin passengers-her full carry
ing capacity. Such weather as enjoyed makes
passage one constant delight, and inspires me
with faith and hope for the return voyage
The days grow longer as we approach the
coast of Ireland and it is nearly midnight be-
fore the deck is deserted for pent-up state
rooms. At 10 o'clock at night l can see to read
my newspaper without artificial light. AS land
would be in sight at an early hour, gave orders
to be called in time to see the approaches to the
harbor. At o'clock / was on deck, it being
as clear and bright as midday / could just dis
Germ the picturesque point of Mizzenhead with It's
sentinel light guarding what is often the ships
peril. the rocky coast of West Ireland The
shore line is broken, but not so precipitous as to
hinder US from seeing the grassy fields that pas
ture sheep and cattle to the very verge of the
precipice or of the waters edge. Here and there
the rocky coast rises seemingly to furnish
place for lighthouse, then drops quietly down
| to kiss the waves as they roll by. Passing by
group of steerage passengers saw tears rolling
down the cheeks of aged men and women, whose
eyes set upon the land. / said to one of
these, ''Are you glad to see your native land
againf The reply came with depth of feeling
that words cannot express IN the snort
sentence that told the strong love
of native land. II hev longed to see it fur nigh
| thirty year." as fresh tears glided down the sun
burned ard toll marked cheek. Like beautiful
picture the shore grows upon the vision until We
round into the harbor which claims to be one OF
the best we'll as the most beautiful shelters In
in the world. So extensive is this harbor that
the entire navies of Europe could float in it with
entire protection from weather on every side.
The entrance is admirably defended by two
forts situated on rocky eminenceS on either side
of the channel The land seems to have parted
company here merely to accommodate the
waters which spread out like the human hand
and form the bay. Spike island, upon which Is
a convict prison; Rocky island, containing gun
solid rock and Hawlbowlin island, just large
enough for tank capable of holding five thou
sand tons of fresh water each add to the impos-
ing beauty Of the bay as they rise precipitously
out of the water. Nature seems averse to an I'M
Afforded rock, and these bold points
are clad in moss ferns, ivy and
other creeping vines, until it seems
that some nymph of the wood has waved her
eye can rest; the wealth of emerald green is
simply enchanting. The custom house, con-
Fronts and | am interrogated about the
amount of cigars and liquors | may have about
me- protest my innocence Of these Injuries
tmy nose somewhat sunburned, creating q
picion own am "chalked" and march out to
take my first ride in English railway carriage
to Cork, eleven miles distant. A high terrace on
the east side of the railway is beautifully
adorned with stately mansions pretty cottages
and ancient castles embowered in trees; ivy-clad
walls and Towering shrubs surrounding
the charming villas of Queenstown
This has become important and fash
ionable watering place on account of
the beautiful scenery, salubrity and equal
ity of the climate; the river Lea follows us
on the other side, its waters being confined for
the whole distance within the walls of solid,
smoothly finished stone-capped masonry; large
and small boats of every description are seen on
its bosom; this is favorite place for regattas,
which are held annually. l arrive in Cork just
in time to hear the bells of Shandon chime for
church service, and am reminded that the poets
With deep reflection and recollection
] often think of those Shandon bells,
Whose sounds wild would.
In days of childhood
Fling round my cradle
Their magic spells.
On this ponder
Wher er wander,
And thus grow fonder,
Sweet Cork, of thee,
With thy bells of Shandon,
That sound so grand on
The pleasant waters of the river Lea.
The Imperial Hotel is my home in Cork and
as l alight from my carriage | am warmly re-
ceived by-beggars they rush in front, beside,
and behind me, and, with courtesy graceful
enough for queen and ''May-God-bl
me-sweet-lady-a l-ye-not-be-af
r-partin-a-penny-w wild me - for my
ed-baby-thats-not- had-a-sup-'o--t
-snce-mo Observation-Disclosures
Observation-Disclosures -much-as-a-mouth-
ful-to-ate- all-the- blissed-long-day-
raa-hev--I-in-heaven-
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES -yis---me--pretty
-miss-may-God- bliss-ye- and-return--
and by this time | have escaped to the
inner temple all this harangue having
occupied less time than it takes to read
it, so glib is the tongue of the Cork beggar. If
beggars are going to beg. want to be begged of
by Irish beggars Their politeness, zeal and
necessity make them curious, tolerable. and
sometimes actually interesting. You must know
them, If you would know Ireland. Where
imagined | would feel strange ana far from
friends-namely, in foreign hotel am agree
ably surprised by the gentle consideration with
which | am received. After l pass to the recep-
tion-room | am out of the hands of the male
porter, and a pleasant TIN annered lady, usually
the wife of the landlord, receives me with the
courtesy she would private guest. A lady
clerk hands me card with the number of my
room, and lady porter in neat, white cap,
takes my packages and conducts me thereto,
women universally doing this service in hotels
in Ireland My apartments tidy
be; the furniture is ample, rich ancient and odd;
the bedstead is brass or iron, the table, bureau
and wash-stand solid mahogany, while polished
brass andirons stand before the little crate with
its bundle of coal ready to be ignited at my pleas
ure; to be sure your dressing table, with its port