The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1886-04-21
FASHION AS 1T F.IEs.
Home Dressrsei<fzg-The A6vantagee-ofg
the yest-Freskening a.d R<inmiux,


put on, and are more stylish,thsu smooth
vests. A singie-breadth of suFah silk is all
that is needed, and this may be, used'aIike
| for silk or wool dresses, and 2sy be OF the
same color or in bright contrast. Red or
| white soft vests are seen on dresses OF almost
any color, and it may be edded that the
| crinkled Japanese Grape is chosen for very
handsome vests instead of ureh. The breadth
is shirred across, the top, whish is curved to
fit the neck of the dress in front, and is sewed
on three incheS-of the right 0ide of the dress.
neck, making the middle reoeh the buttons,
and is then Tapped the same distance on. the
left side. where it disappears undes q reyers
of the dress goods or of velvet. This vest may
be long enough to extend TO the waist line
or even to drop below it ina puff, or it may
De short square or else pointed to stop at
the top of the,dazts, wherea stomacher May
meet it, or the fronts of the dress. mag be
laced below OF simply bUdoned.
high velvet dogcolIa-, also faesaens ana
dress, and when made with the vest Just de-
scribed, should lap 70 the left side, and be
cut in point there, or else held by a small
bow of ribbou
| A, bright yellow or poppy red japanese
| Grape vest is liked for black silk or grena-
dine dresses, and with this may be the V
| spaces cut between ths vest and sleeves, and
| filed with puff of the Grape. The sleeves
| are then completed with pLaif of the same
coming ont like an undersleeve, which is
| gathered on wristband of ribbon.
A yard of beaded passementeFie can be
| made to- trim plain waist and sleeves
| prettily by putting a row down each front
from neck to darts, beginning an inch beyond
the button.holes. The lower edge is finished
with point or tassel. A row Of the trim
| ming IS placed on the upper side of the
| sleeve at the wrist and below this is a
gathered scarf of the dress goods. If dog
collar is to be covered with the beaded trim
ming, yard and half will be needed, and
| galloon with straight edges should be chosen
in preference to the vine patterns OF paSse-
menterie. Broad fringe two inches wide
may be cut in short strips and placed cross.
! wise each side of the buttons of a corsage
If the lower edge of one row laps over the
top Of that below IL, this makes very eff
| fective trimming.
A black surah or gros grain basque can be
| tastefully trimmed with three-eighths of a
yard of jetted net which is gathered up as a
full plastroa, square or In V shape, and
| there will be enough left for gathered scarf
| on each sleeve as a cuff.
| To shorten in appearance waists that seem
too long, dreSs-maker5 put small hair-pad
inside of the back of the basque, just below
| the waist line; this holds the basque up,
| making it curve out prettily, and the drapery
conceals it entirely. Such pad should be
| about four inches square, not tightly padded
but soft, and should be tackled to the three
seams of the middle back forms just below
| the inside belt.
To hold up weighty skirts modistes now
sew strip OF silk, in which three leugth-
wise button-holes are worked, across the
back of the basque, attaching it to the iu-
side belt. Three buttons to meet these holes
are then placed on the belt of the dress skirt.
A black lace fiounce ten or twelves inches
wide, instead OF being gathered around the
skirt as formerly, is now arranged without
cutIingl in jabot down the left side of the
front, is gathered across the foot in front far
back TO the right side, and then ascends
again to the belt. This trims black silk
skirts handsomely, and there should be a
series of jet dropping ornamets down the
middle of the skirt in front.
| Another way of using lace is to get two
yards of the yard-wide bouncing that is seal
Hoped on the lower edge. Cut this in two
pieces, and gather one at the top of each side
gore to hang full; then catch it up the mid
die about half its depth with rosette OF rib
bon, disclosing the silk beneath. This is
taStefully carried out OF gray-blue silk, the
lace being either black French lace or else
ecru, and the rosette of the blue silk lined
| with red. The front breadth of such a skirt
| SnOuuu De VI Tie bllh III lcLSluWloC plOato.
| Black lace and jet passementerie will be
| much used to trim India silks and foulards
OF bright poppy red or OF electric blue and
the new yellowish-green and bronze shades
Black watered ribbon sashes also accompany
such dresses.
Black satin surah dresses left over from
| last summer will serve economical foun-
dati0ns for black lace dresses. From eight
to ten yards Of piece lace will be needed to
cover the satin entirely. but If parts of the
skirt are gooc. five yards will answer; this
should be used for gathered surplice basque
laid on a satin basque, and for apron dra-
perry with ribbon sash behind. The ecru
net and white cream, or black point d'esprit
net with very i;ne dots is similarly used. A
French fancy for skirts of this net shows
tucks all around, with colored ribbon run in
each tuck.
which is an imitation of the real thread or
Il Chantilly lace, are in stripes of vines across
from selvage to selvage, or in lengthwise
stripes. Flouncing with scalloped edges may
be had in corresponding stripes.
Point d'esprit, with trimming lace seal
Hoped on one edge, is imported in all colors,
and will be much used in millinery.
Among the simple styles for misses and
young ladies' wool dresses, that of the kilt
pleats may be three or four inches wide, or
else only one inch, according to fancy. The
basque is the simplest position shape, and
collar and sleeves, also Stimulating vest in
cross rows or else in lengthwise parallel rows
with single curled row down each side.
The most fashionable tailors use this simple
design for the light cloth dresses of elegant
young women in society, and similar dresses
are made at home by mothers for daughters
who are still schoolgirls. Hence, dresses
made this way last year need not be altered
| in the least. Dark navy blue or brown can
vas, mohair, or cashmere dresses made in
! this simple manner may have high collar
and narrow cuffs of velvet of the same shade,
but to add any more elaborate trimming or
| to use intricate drapery detracts from the
good style of such dresses, and makes them
| what women of taste call 'fussy-looking"
for want of better word. The great fault
with ordinary dressmakers at present is that
of overtrimming; they should take useful
hints from the tailor suits made in severely
plain styles, yet with perfect grace, every
seam being in its proper place. outlining the
| figure tastefully, and thus completing dresses
that remain in good form as long as the
fabric lasts. and do not need to be altered
each season.
Hasty Marriages..
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