The Arizona sentinel., 1886-04-24
SPRING COSTUMES.
A Perpetuation of the Styles Prevalent
 During the Winter Season.

l A Perpetuation of the Styles Prevalent During the Winter Season.
 New costumes for spring and sum-
 mer retain the general effect of those
 now worn, with basque, bouffant skirt
 and combinations of two materials.
 The principal changes are in the drap-
 cry, and in an attempt to lengthen short
 skirts, making those of street dresses
 barely escape the ground, wn11e those i for the house touch the floor. The i plaits across the back of skirts, instead i of being abandoned, are increased in i number from three to six, the added
 ones being very short, and set in only a few inches below the belt, so that they
 may take the place of the warm hair
 cushion, though thls cushion is still
 used by many French modistes.
 The foundation skirt remains about
 two yards and a quarter in width. The lower skirt of the dress material is very full and straight, being almost regu- lar Mother Hubbard skirt, and is vis- ible to a greater height below or be- tween the draperies than in winter dresses. Sometimes this skirt is gath
 cred all around at the top, and sewed
 to the foundation skirt, but in most cases it is partly plain and partly gath
 cred, or else plaited in wide, loose look ing plaits in the sides or behind, or wherever it is not covered by drapery.
 The new draperies are arranged very long in the front and back, leaving both
 sides of the lower skirt uncovered from the belt down. The front drapnry drops in point toward the right side,
 being made very wide and full of plait- ing into the belt; it is then caught up in plaits on the left hip, and falls in a curve to the foot on the right, leaving its right side quite straight. This tab Her, it will be seen, exposes both sides Of the lower skirt, which may be in lengthwise plaits on both sides, or it may have stripes of the material or bands of velvet ribbon or plush woven in the fabric, or rows of embroidery on a deep fall of lace, or else for light sum- mer fabrics there may be many narrow ruff1es of silk or of lace, with a band of velvet ribbon heading each. The back drapery is confined to very narrow space when plaited or gathered to the belt, but it is very full, and may hang straight to the foot, or else be opened in the middle and droop in two long mar row points that again disclose the full lower skirt. Flounces all around the skirt are seldom seen, even as a finish to the foot, but are used in very mar row widths to cover the sides or per haps the front of skirt, while the full lower skirt, when made of wide lace or embroidery or any one of the bordered or bayadere striped fabrics, is, in point of fact, merely one deep fiounce. giving the effect of full round skirt.
 Basques remain short with high darts, giving the appearance of long slender waist, but those of thin fabrics have fuller trimmings in front that the flat garnitures of winter dresses. The full plastron or vest is made of soft silk gathered or plaited, and there are taper ing velvet revers on each side of this vest.
 The laced front is feature of new basques, and is becoming to all figures Some plain wool dresses are laced from the throat down, but it is more usual to add separate pieces at the top of the first dart and lace these to the end of the basque, while above this is the gathered or plaited plastron and the revers. The seams of basques are not changed, but the outside fabric is put on in varied ways, a partiality being shown for V- shaped trimmings in back and front, in- laid between folds of the material set in two or four inch-wide plaits on the shoul. ders in front and behind, and tapered into very narrow plaits at the waist line, making the old-time fan waistso becom- ing to slight figures. Very high dog collars of velvet, cut all Tn one piece and stif1y lined with buckram, are on dresses of thin fabrics, and may be fastened on the left side in 8 point or with bow of ribbon; if made to meet in front, two or even three hooks and eyes are required to fasten them.-Harper's BazGr,