Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1884-1886, 1886-06-05
suRAn DRESSES.
Tho Most Popular Material for stylish Sum

mer Costumes.
Silk surahs-not satin surahs-are
largely imported for summer dresses,
either for the house or out-of-doors; in
the latter case they are often combined
with canvas. Plaid and striped surahs
are used for the basque and skirt, with
sleeves and long drapery Of plain can
vas. Thus blue and white plain surah
is made up in a surplice basque with
blue canvas sleeves, lower skirt OF
seven straight gathered breadths Of the
plaid silk over which is deep drapery
of the wide blue canvas made in one
piece, with selvage at the foot forming
q deep apron 'front.' and draped in high
is attached to the point of the basque,
and drops IN two long pointed wings.
Some gilt braid as shoulder straps is
laid along the shoulder seams of such
dresses, and blue satin ribbon two
inches wide is worn around the waist
like military sash, falling low on the
left side of the skirt, where it is COM
pleted by gilt tassels. Blue and red
plaid surahs are similarly made with
blue canvas, also beige with green, and
mastic with red. Small rough straw
pokes peaked in front and back are
brought out with such dresses in red.
blue or beige colors, trimmed with many
high loops of ribbon only an inch wide,
or else with still narrower quarter-inch
ribbons of many colors in one rosette.
Black surah dresses for summer are
made up with white gathered vest of
and sash of artistic stuffs and new soft
silks in pale olive shades, or peach
blow, pale yellow or copper red, or else
with garnet bead passementerie for
trimming. To introduce little color
is the modiste's object in such dresses,
and the favorite designs have the plait-
ed or shirred basques with revers and
soft sash, while the drapery is many long
breadths forming the second skirts now
SO much in favor. A charming design
for a young lady's dress has the second
skirt of six breadths of the black surah
dropping down from the belt, and
caught up IN a square corner on the left
side to show two rows of scallops, one
of black, the other of olive surah, on the
foot of the lower skirt; the right side has
funnel-shaped plat, and on the straight
full gathered breadths in the back hang
two sash ends of pale olive silk can
vas fringed at the foot, and their upper
end concealed by the basque. The
short basque gathered on the should
ers has a gathered plastron of white
silk wrought with rose-buds from
the neck to a wide soft girdle
of green like the sash which crosses
it at the waist line; beside this white
plastron are green revers, which ex-
tend as 4 collar in the back, while in
front is a gathered band of the white
silk about the throat. A gathered cuff
of green surah strapped with the white
silk trims the black coat-sleeves. Other
full basques of black surah are in box
plaits as the waist line under belt,
but the fullness is gathered at the neck
and in the shoulder seams. The effect
of a Norfolk jacket is given by rows of
garnet galloon or of jet passementerie
extending down between the fullness.
which does not. however, assume de-
fined plaits. The galloon is then used
for dog-collar, rs wristbands, ard
through the middle of the belt. which
is fastened by rosette.-Harper's
Bdzdr