New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-05-09
THE FASHIONS.
FOR SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER

-wRAPs-MOURSIv0 cosrUMHs-sBOEs.
In headgear there is great variety In Shape,
shade and trimming Asa rule. however the steep's
shaped and other niecrowned hats divide the henoss
with the cap0ies Hero and there looms the qusins
fsh-wife peak Ike gable window overhung with fo'-
age graceful branch Of hO1eysnckls agress OF rosy
Scotch heather otherwise the gable Is simply hneds
discloses only tho hair In which sometimes rev
flowers placed In careless beauty. or cluster
green-God prnroses and Intense purple violst' las
clous crimson little white lilies and golden
yeIowcups. heecy haze Of gauze or Grape cov"ns
small coquetsh capote. UNDERGONE OF cei buet
the delicate trimming consists Of pearl embro'Geree
loops Of Grape. few sprays OF white acacia mingled
with delicate pink azaleas aud Few for'
0et-me-nots ntermngled. Other bonnets produce
subdued effects In shades OF all the
Turkish olives mixed with amaranth. pale blue
and pale pink some Of the most artistic Of the summer
imported made OF the sofes Canton crspos
OF pale ns such peach blossom. tea rose prfmross
pcashe. absnthe amber ciel blue. Aided 70 the dsi'
grapes the cobweb silk muls soft ettmnes ana
other materials light as elder down but made heavy
with embroidery and beads Coquettish rustic bonneS
OF rough and ready in styles show novel
and pretty method of trimming the edges o-n9 adorned
with smallest OF the dori tribe. IS casies forget
me-nots, mignonette. violets and byacintha Other
styles are made of mixture OF Tuscan and NcapoitAn
braids on a frame forming a bed from when syringe
cluster OF rosebuds the messy bud half hidden In is
cayx pale pink bud the June wheness OF the bridal
bud that creamy and the rich crimson oil
the Jacqueminos these encIrced in hedge OF NOES
heather Scarlet geranums on black sraws are veico
/ IN black crepe lisse.
| Beaded grenadines, CLEANLINESS and other
terals gain In popularity. delicate gray grensine 10
beaded shaded stripes OF rdescent coors with vines
between the stripes The same style Is observed IN
shades OF brown. An old gold India silk dress has
Of beaded black grcnaine and oversight drapsd
away OF French lace; back draperes correspond with
| will Iar head
dimes has by no means expired but is on the Increase
These mostly the styles In stripes frse. ana
dotted With these beaded net is gracefully arranged
and great deal OF beaded lace In paniers, fronts drap
cries and ounces Grenadines rva led by the later
fashions in all manner OF openwork fabrics canvas
and etamine materials The open mesh work affords
excellent field for embroidery massed upon IL es-
pecially In batIste Some specimens are over
run with black vines thick with vivid scarlet
flowers near the lower part, gradually mar.
rowing as they reach the waist A delicate
eamne robe closely covered with heavy black brown
and white embroidery design and Others are In
all shades Of wood colors. An extremely pretty and
fanclfu style diamond open work stripes; between
these are large Oriental flowers embroidered with vivid
coors completed above by detached pyranidal hsures
the lower edge overskrt IL fringed ont two OF
three inches DEPTH the top netred and tied with the
colored threads OF embroidery Some OF the tars
canvas materials are embroidered in the coors and do
signs of antique India shaws these sold for so.
Oriental colors designs ecru dark rcd aud
dull blues, very popular.
Wraps for cool summer days as well as the spring
months present variety OF styles in diagonal olive.
brown and absnthe. As In costumes, there are some
examples in the Renaissance the Chateaine. With
standing ruff aud the sashed sleeve; put
distinct line should be drawn between the
gala toilette OF the eighteenth century and the
costume to-day FOR daily wear Many OF these wraps
are covered rich Of rdescent beads
| oiiya nd shlda ia
Yak lace corresponding in color One OF this style IL
lined with pale green satin OF changeabe hues brown
grenadne closely interviewer With olive brown and other
rather sombre beads is accompanied by wide PASSENGER
erie bands on the neck and down the front superb
black satin Ottoman wraps covered with network OF
beads In floral arsbesque OF duh jets wide fringe 10
mbined with trimming Of Spanish lace. Later In
the there will be worn wraps OF much lizhter
weight ana fabric English cloth In stripes checks and
invisible soft brown plads The Cardinal hood Is lined
with neutral tinted surah silk; so with the sleeves
There are unumerabe other fashions for these useful
little wraps seaside. mountain or travelling, in all
manner OF shapes.
Soft ana me wOollen fabrics very popular.
this ally agreeable to the touch be-
ing wholly divesed OF the unpleasant rOughness thas
sometimes pervades all woods OF any nature. Tue
diagonal stve prevails AMI there the pretty camel
let's and canvas goods In delicate olive pale pea colors
every shade OF greet golden brown. nuns gray saffron.
beige and other shades. These costumes are simply
made trimmed with large metal buttons covered with
japanese Assyrau designs In relief or other
work. Metal clasps are also used. or three silver gilt OF
silver clasps This fashion OF decoration affords IN op
portunty for the display OF helrsOoms 10 the way Ut
brooches, clasps slides or buckles
Pretty peated pastrons Of rel surah silk are called
robin redbreasts" ami dainty white ones Of silk Or
satin and added a soft gray dress called ssA
swaows and the young lady who becomes Transformed
INTO graceful. swallow is far more attractive than
had the
or bonnet A bow for the side Of
the dog collar is termed the windmill
turning round. considered by some cynical people -
very appropriate symbol
Mourning b0nnets made either In capote or simple
cottage shape Grape placed on without folds or trin-
ming, Is what - generally called the " widows eAy
nor any white There discussion regarding Toe
aeayy eFp rons ta S"ath ami cert iuiy IL creaies
discomfort. II II Is worn, u should be thrown back.
confined with Grape pins Brussels net veil 10 appro-
nriate FOR the face CnuGdah CLOTH tine cames hale.
Trrrtetta c!oth nuns yelling. drap a Alma al
proper first mourning In SIX mere Is preferences
Tor falle Frlnci. without ustre elk Grape, otherwise
called Grape Japanla. a.sO suitable when combinsd
with Grape. Later mourning bonnels made Of black
Addict TO TINS dea or beaded lace used. black
tips ana ponpous sprnsied with jet and jss-
Gapare ace and Yak and Escurial used to tim
heavier well as wraps Tor cool days In su-
mer There are natural objections made TO black craps
or sse rulings at the neck the score OF anbecomins
ness ana while crepe lIsse or i've narrow ods o.
white silk or sse internnged with t;io black IL mors
satisfactory In every way. There Is no economy IN
and the poor dye very soon are apparent and then
shabby black half gray Is made visible go with goods
OF M xed fabrics that .n.alDy become rusty The neg
French have lustre or the finest CHINA Ska
and the designs upon them are also closely followed
During the summer season, in the first mourning
is considered rulcous TO Grape, but the nne nunS
yelling Is worn IN its place
The comrortable low SHOES with low English heels and
toes more square pointed should be univee-
sally adopted with any dress the street, worn win
black gray or brown stockings. lmplng. totterfng
gait unequal steps, and elbows at right angles wi nA
urally together with French heels. be abandoned
Messrs. LORD & Taylor. James McCreery q Co.. Arnold
Az Constable. and b. Altman 81 Co. Will please acoepo
thanks for attention.
It's now said that the Presidents wedding Will -
occur until August The people will feel disappointed
They had quite June. or course, 10
body wants TO hurry Mr. Cleveland In matter OF thlo