The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1886-03-31
THE MODES.
Stripes, Not Checks, to BE the Rage and
Hues in Red and Gold.

Stripes, Not Checks, to BE the Rage and
Hues in Red and Gold.
The new materials for autumn and
winter wear are already displayed on
the counters of our large dry goods
stores. Infinite variety, harmonious
blendings of dark, rich, bright shades,
and a fancy for rough-faced fabrics,
are theSigns which she who runs may
read Looking closer it is evident that
the reign Of velvet and lace is to en-
dure, and that combination suits will,
If possible, be even more fashionable than
ever. Very few suits viii be made en-
tirely of one fabric OF all the fancies
shown each has its matching cloth,
and tailor-made suits are of subdued
stripe, plaid or check, in somber col
ors, with plain cloth matching one or
other of the checks or stripes. In
Paris the passion is for stripes-plain
stripes, fancy stripes, Pekin stripes,
narrow stripes and broad stripes in
every possible combination of color
and material. The hue of the hour is
bronze-all the bronzes, indeed-brown,
copper and green. There is a new
sapphire, so called, which is really the
nation with a brilliant copper tint,
forms some of the most striking bro
cades of the season. There is a notice
able falling off in the popularity of gar
net. The new reds are, for the most
part, vivid in tone or dark with russell
tints, like autumn leaves. Gilt is pGSSe;
still, golden tinges are many, especially
in shot effects, and bronze dor, the
beautiful golden bronze, still holds its
own.
The practical economist may con-
graduate herself on the fact that there
will be no difficulty in making over
last years dresses. All dark, standard
colors are worn-indeed, very few
shades are even pdS$e-while the in
finite diversity of color combinations
in fancy materials makes it easy to
find something to go with anything
and everything
The fashion of wooden is to be greater
even than it was last year. The sam
pie books of returning buyers show
hundreds of new fancies in these, most
of them charming and many of them
novel. The newest idea is an outcome
of the passion for lace By some magic
of the loom a lace web is superimposed
on the foundation, the effect being that
of lace inserting on figures, laid over
the cloth. The lace may be cut away
and lifted from the fabric; it is alto
gether distinct from the foundation on
which it rests. Wooden lace, it is pro-
phesed, will have a great run. Worth
and Felix are making deD1isGiSOn toilets
of this for their chateau customers.
They-the toilets-are of the simplest
description; a round skirt of yak or
llama lace over foundation of French
faille, full gathered in front and on the
sides, and box-pleated at the back. The
bodice may be of lace over silk, or silk
trimmed with lace, but there is always
a broad sash at the back, usually of
MORE, sometimes OF velvet striped rib
bon.
The favorite French craze Just now
is for sashes. Whenever and wherever
one can be worn tits worn. They form
side panels, or are draped across the
front of the dress, or, most frequent,
arrangement of all, in huge loop and
ends at the back. The new sashes are
magnificent Most of them are striped,
and in some satin, faille, plush and vel
vet all appear. Roman stripes and
Oriental color blendings are prominent
and a popular fashion will be to illumi-
nate dark or black silk with such a
sash, using it as side panel or back
drapery and vest. The trimming of
the season will be velvet. You can not
possibly err in using it on any dress,
either in contrast or in same color.
The only question is plain or fancy vel
vet, and this is, of course, to be decided
by the manner of costume to be
trimmed. Philadelphia Press.