Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-12-04

From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, December 4th
The question OF practical dress is beginning to
assume Importance 1t Is no longer assigned to
cranks but is treated respectfully by such organs
OF public opinion fairly entitled TO represent
tne daily press. Within a few weeks the singular
spectacle has been seen OF one daily paper I'm New
York city following another I'm giving columns and
illustrations to a reform dress, the foundation
garment OF which has appeared In every reform
dress business circular for the past nve years at
least.
The growth OF interest in the combination
under garment-which is what the cut referred to
Representatives, not been as great among those
who are TO wear it as advocates of dress reform
ueoie; put one OF the reasons Is the price, which
Is nlgher than the majority OF women can AFFORD
10 pay; another. Its harshness in the medium
grades OF wool and It's ugly shape, which does
MOI aoapt Itself TO the varying forms OF dress, or
the difference in weather or climate and could not
De worn with even the mild form OF full" dress,
Which new champion-Mrs. Miller, of Washing
tOn-illuStrateS and advocates.
MIS- Miller's idea is the well knowno one Of layers
OF Clothing, with a waist instead OF corsets; and
drawers TO match the gown, instead OF under
skirts. This last is an adaptation of Lady Harber-
tons notion OF the 'divided" skirt only Mrs Mill
Ter shapes her drawers or trousers and allo the
skirt OF her gown to maintain its usual walking
length The outfit, as REORGANIZATION gar
ment, shaped waist, linen over-garment, drawers
OF the same material as the dress and dreSS-iS an
Invaluable one for some purposes and under GER
tain circumstances. IT is excellent as school
and sixteen. 1t would be q good dress for long
journeys by sea or I'm the mountains, and admira-
pie Ior service dress in city like san Francisco
for example, subject TO trade winds and needing
always clothing that affords protection, some de-
gree OF warmth, and that can be made light In
There is the objection always, as have stated
recently, TO the mer1no Undertaking, that 1t Is
dear and heavy and harsh and UNACCEPTABLE. The
wooden underwear manufactured at the far west
Is superior Is some respects To ours at the east;
and the English is superior to ours In softness and
tif.rn in no
form OF the garments and they also lower in
price. We grow lots OF wool, IL is capable OF the
finest treatment, IL will always be one-and the
most important one-Of the three great factors In
Clothing, the other two being silk and cotton; and
II would pay our eastern manufacturers TO bring
materials and garments TO as near perfection as
possible and grade prices according TO cost of pro-
duction, not strain them TO the limit they can
obtain from purchasing minority.
THE sREFORM" WAIST
IS not b. any means an ideal advance upon the
corset IL enlarges the thin person, but 1t does
not shape or keep In place enectually super
abundance OF flesh, or without bursting of but
tons Nor does IL adapt Itself TO the eNfgencies OF
stout I'm person, wears neither corset nor waist
under her dresses Her only ''stay" is an inven-
ton OF her own. 1t is belt, which deepens front
and back and Is slOped in under the arms. Flat
loops are attached TO its lower edge-at the sides
and centers-so that II may be adjusted An ac-
treSs cannot sfall" throw herself about raise her
arms or gesticulate, she is often Obliged TO do
upon the stage, in corset; and it is great ques
their needs without furnishing special designs and
paving the double cost OF special orders. Business
necessities are doing for women what preaching
could never dO-obliging them to subordinate
fashion to the Imperative requirements of daily
working lives.
As for the healthfulness OF 1T, the facts can be
arrayed on both sides OF the dress question. An
Old lady died at ninety the other day, who had
small FOOT, all her life; and a young girl at
twenty, who was an ardent disciple of the dress
reform idea. These cases do not prove anything;
hnV only CHI
That there are other causes at work beside dress,
STRENGTHENING or sapping the foundation OF life.
CheerfulneSS, dispoSitfonto look upon the bright
side OF things and see virtues-even in corsets-
instead Of faults, will promote health and long
thankful and helpful If possible upon all the lines
upon which advance is made; only examining the
details closely and with reference to others as
well as ourselves; that we may properly estimate
values, and be able TO judge how far radical
changes are practicable, and important to vital
interests.
WINTER HOSIERY.
A detail OF dress that requires more attention
than IS given to IL and that really presents prob
lens difficult OF solution, is that Of winter hosiery
In summer. and for mild climates, there are in
finite varieties or cotton and Isle thread but when
stormy and cold weather comes the feet which
should be kept warm and protected from all ap-
proach OF damp, are still encased in perhaps worn
or thin cotton stockings and the only attempt made
TO ward OH the ills that SoleS and ankles NAV con-
vey TO more vital parts OF the body, is TO invest
shoes
Why do not women buy wooden hose9 Some do,
but many do not because they are coarse harsh
and dear. The same objections are made TO them
that are made 10 wOOllen under-clOthing. To OBJ
tain soft cashmere hosiery one must pay from
81 10 $S-2o per pair: the different grades being
offered for SIS the lowest; for nice stockings
g.3, $50, and so on up to the finest ribbed
The wooden hose sold at 81 per pair are unweara-
bic by delicate woman, and badly made
that they are very apt TO break out along the line
hSs h<sfD no hauls fpaS 0fn
signs OF wear. Sometimes left over lot OF this
description OF hosiery will be ..knocked off at 80
and IS cents per pair: but they doubtful pur-
chase at that, as colors rarely be relied upon
any more than detail OF finish. Yet dollar, or
woman TO pay for pair OF stoo 1ngs: and with
cheap wool and the aid OF machinery, ought to buy
her good pair, not only pair that win wear
The best, imported, Spun-silk hosiery, fulfill all
she requirements for winter stockings They are
But Sse co pu asd them o OF tbe
question for all but few. The range of prices is
from ml ,T Of six and pr nsn Th ae
have ndt the warmth or ''body- of the genuine;
and soon wear-as lady expressed it-"brown
and out 1T Is curious that while we imported
china largely from tine neighborhOod OF Carlsbad
(Austria) where are seventeen large china manu-
facturcrs. there is not single house in this city
or country, that imports the famous, Carlsbad
spun six hose, or Carlsbad handmade pins.
The hose will outwear two OF the English are
made on hand-loOmS are well shaped with ribbed
ninety cents per pair IN Carlsbad and would there
fore probably be 81 80 per pair here but they might
al least serve excellent models 10 our manu-
facturers. who should be able 10 furnish them at
sixty per cent above the Carlsbad price.
The pins are handmade, with round heads and
finish that makes them delightful for fastening
lace and delicate fabrics The little Ain la chapelle
pins, with colOred heads stuck In small, square
bo--ltke forms OF gilt or lowered paper, can be
bought anywhere: but the Carlsbad pins are far
more useful anu Interesting; they common
Joy, "A satisfaction Tor every day, pleasure every
time one Is employed: and though not likely TO in
terfere with home manuIdct uTeS--whch are excel
lent OF the k1nd-wOuld he valuable Tor some pur-
poses and occasions.
PRACTICAL DRESS FOR THE MASSES.
While reforIners are talking, practical dress for
the larger number continue 10 be the best the
shops afford and their purses Will buy; and this
Will doubtless continue 10 be so: for luxury grows
with the wealth OF a nation, IL does not lessen:
and America promises TO be the richest country
fR the world. orr women already famous
everywhere for tDeir initiative taste. They will
be noted some day for the originality OF their
ideas and their adaptation TO individual character
tsIics. A drawing room even now presents u scene
o., far more varying interest, so far as toilets
con ~erned, than one OF twenty years ago. Instead
OF the costumes being alike I'm conventional form
and on, ~Qe they are all different, and many OF
them char. 'tngly suggestive. picture dress
OF pompadour design, all stripes and rosebuds,
lace AID lOopng. Will spread itself beside double
gown Of Marie II uarts time, or straight, short
wasted dress o! the first empire
The German opera at the Metropolitan opera
house f. now the great center OF music and lash
ION. High as are the prices, they have been raised
;h;, season. AMI a single orchestra seat now costs