Morning journal and courier., 1886-03-17
 Fashions for Early Spring.


 Materials for demi-saison wear are already l to be seen. Many of them are of light wool en goods One Of the greatest novelties in l this line, called 'chestnut peel," is usually made in stripes on a worsted ground. The goods are a kind of yelling and the stripes, in bright colors, consist of small raised dots exactly resembling the prickles on the green skin of the chestnut. Materials in open work, of which some specimens have already been observed this winter, are to be the style. Among them is large assortment of pekins with stripes of many colors and in various open work designs. They all in exquisite hues, particularly the 'sbayaderes," /" which are the most original of all. A toilet of this material has just been completed by fashionable Parisian dressmaker. The dress is black striped, with wide ''bayadere, :" stripes in red, brown and gold and with moss-green threads. The skirt is covered with deep guipure founce, which is raised in the back ill puffng. Two black faille ends fall down OR either side of the apron. They are bordered by band of bayadere stripes placed crosswise. In the back are two rather wider ends plaited like the tails of coat. These ends are on either side of the pufing The faille waist opens striped plastrop, which is sewed to the waist
  The waist terminates in front in a small point and forms short coat tails in the back The large revers on either side of the plas- tron are bordered with cording of small wooden beads in all the colors of the stripes. The beads are blue, red, green and white. The bonnet matching this dress is of jet latticework in capote shape It is trimmed with large raised bow of satin ribbon, faille and velvet in the same colors as the beads.
 Nearly all woolen fabrics are called veil ing or etamine. The plain goods is yelling and the fancy material etamine. They are combined in one suit as heretofore. All colors are to be worn, but the various shades of beige promise to be most popular. Both plain and rich suits are of worsted etamines in open work. The distinction is made be- tween simple and elegant styles by the man. her in which they are lined. For instance, fawn-colored etamine lined with cherry reddish gold silk makes most showy toilet. Pretty tissues in round open network are oI coarse tulle, with satin or plain stripes. There are also etamines with velvet stripes joined by woven piece in open work. A dark moss-green material of this kind has bands of velvet about two. fingers wide. The open work is about half this width, with stitching of ruby colored thread running through the center Another style is dark navy blue in open network crossed with stripes in relief in Turkish style, comprising two shades of red, white, green, blus and little yellow. Breton costumes will be in these goods. The striped bands serve for trimmings It would be endless task to describe the many designs in open work now made; some of them are more like lace than ordinary materials.
 Bands of embroidered cachemire are to be in fashion.
 Many plain suits will be of goods in small and large checks. Rich heavy fabrics ati1 mn dA n Sk tS vii fri of plain wsolen fabrics may have galloon trimming Plaited skirts also retain their hold on favor, the triple folds called watteau plait being preferred to all others These plaits open ill fan-shape below. There may be bows of the same color as the goods all the way up the side of the tunique. The beauty of tuniGues consists in their being draped simply and, it were, carelessly. The plaits are fastened under passemente- ries and bows.
 French dressmakers have made change in their way of cutting waists. They now dis pense with all darts, even for stout figures, and the waists sit like glove. These waists are usually open over plastron. There is small side piece under the. arm and then a front piece cut bias and fastened to the plas- tron by a seam which extends from the neck down to the basque and gives shape to the waist. The seam is indispensable, as it re- places the darts. Striped fabrics are partic. u1arly well suited to this kind of waist, be- cause the front is cut bias and sewed to the plastron, which is straight The plastron may be of the same goods, but it is better to have it of striped or ribbed material, for then the contrast between the straight and the bias goods is more marked. Waists for young ladies are very low in the neck, but they have small guimpes underneath of | tulle lace, plaited on the shoulder and draped on the inside of the waist. There are also 'tcorselets," which are taken under the arm, but these also have high guimpe- of plaited crepe isse.
 A suit of sicilienne and pekin, with fine velvet stripes, is made in the following manner: The underskirt is of two materi
 als. The three breadths in front are o 1 striped goods and the two back breadth