Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-08-28
THE OLD MUsCovrrr CAPITAL
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S0A1oPSsssesE0s VI Suo N. 7. journal q CUmme1Ca
AT THE STATION
W wsfe received by . man wearing q long
oiask robe gfrded ct the waist, trousers tucked
into MS boots and . sort of smoking cap with q
eend OF peecooks feathers. II he could have
SPOKEN word OF English Or French or German
the charm OF this splendid appaxttion would
have vanished instantly. He was delightfully
Russian nom top 70 to-. When We said 'Sla-
vieusky Bazaar (nams OF the principal hotel
here) ne Knew what We meant He conducted
us TO carriage, 70 which were harnessed four
white horses abreast, all decorated with bells
and tassela. II was obvious that this sort on
Sning WAS not universal In Moscow, TOR We saw
no otner men 10 the streets dressed 10 that way
ana lew other horses thus capafisoue& HI the
SfaviansEy Bazaar for treating his guests to the
revivea q Old Russian hospitalitisA <.
At THE HOTEL
We were sorry 70 see walters In the claw-ham.
mef costs and white necksiss OF Dslmonico's
But then again IL wss . pleasure 70 md .
the middle and tunic OF such . cut and length
tnat ne looked externally just like girl. When
one nnds thsse things At Moscow after travelling
rewarded. We have been in pursuit Of
GOOD GENUINE RUSSIAN DINNrRs
In ana out OF this hotel, and are prepared 70
say that they fully equal the best French com.
binattohs In appetizing ana nourishing quail
ties. A. some Of the restaurants you mustread
the waiter o. and:sssd snss You a vii vii
TAKE dinner at axed price. It 10 delightful
e a.. lind 9 race with the moral courage 70 invent
man cannot understand. The soup, 20 begin
with, would be incomprehensible 70 Q Partisan
meal. It 10 hot, slab broth, With large chunk
OF meat (not y knuckis b0ns) in the middle OF
It, inviting the knife TO cut and come again.
With this succulent dish IL served pastry look.
Ing like Yankee turnover" stuffed to the
bursting point with meat hash. Croqusttea
snd balls Of msat-with delicious sauces-nfpre
'Joinr' OF other countries-beef, mutton or veal
lis not wanting, and the Russians 70 far accom-
give Us chicken ana .sisdwbut tSs latter in the
disappointing form 81 picked cucumber, while
we are signing for = little crisp lettuce. had
served out OF place. Here it comes third on the
list, following meat dish. For dessert, one
has the fruit OF the season. Just now the straw
pile, which we are expected TO eat out OF soup
plates With table spoons. Last Sunday we
were walked early by
GRAND CRASH OF BELLS.
AS almost every one of the hundreds Of
churches has set Of four or i've bells, you will
understand that, when all ring together, they
compel . hearing. None Of the bells are very
near Us, and the sound OF the h&rshest was mel
lowed w distance. They were Of all pitches,
could not make out y tune In ali the noise. The
bells are not runG As chiMeS. Each one seems
to work 'oa its own hook" and TO be striking y
racket for half an hour one feels like turning
over for another nap. But the attempt il use
less The beii'ringers are as punctilious in their
performances as II these We're the most essen
tial part OF religion. They will not shorten the
prescribed hours Of this labor by single sec
ond. Among the profound notes that come
booming over all the green roofs before my win
aows fancy near The voice Ut Monstrous
brazen-throated creature whom l patted ON
stronghold Of q tower within the kremiin about
$50 ieet from the ground. Without vOuching
for measurements should say he is II feet
wide ~ the flare or rim aud Ii feet high. His
tongue weighs about two tons. sounded with
the ierule my umbrella ne gave little muf-
fed roar; The man in charge offered to tap
him gently with the pOndrOus clapper swing
ing there. But did not care to hear him more
clearly at short range And declined.
dhe ordinary bass voice Is often little better
one thinks of calling IL musical. But never
heard tenOrs that thrilled and charmed me
more than the BASES at the
TEMPLE OF THE SAVIOUR.
This is, perhaps, the costlisst and most splen.
did church In all the Kussias. Its outside is
marble and gold. Its inside is lavish display
OF the preei0as metals thickly set with gems.
Every quarry in The empire has contributed its
best TO compose the teSselateu noOr, the Watns'
cOLlnX aud Lne columns OF the marvellous struc-
ture. II was built " commemorate the defeat
OF the French Invasion VI 1912, and was only
recently completed alter forty-six years of con-
secGtive work. As one WALKS about this stu.
pendous church aud transfers his admiration
from one object of beauty and richness to an
other, his attention is suddenly called of from
everything Wy IL burst vi musical thunder. 1t
Hoods the In terror like she crash OF great or.
gan. lie looks AL around aud cannot zee what
causes 1t. Somewhere In an elevated aud hid.
den choir or behind the niassi te gold altar piece
are the singers. The voices are all basseS. There
are three Or I0ur distinct parts" some pitched
SO much higher than others that they seem
relatively to be tenors. Each nOte-even the
lOwest-is clear and firm. 1t has the sweetness
oi flute with the sonOrOus volume OF q bas-
sOOn. The concealed performers are utteriny
Responses " the gorGeOusly attired priests Whose
own voices are deep aud lnslOdlOuS and worthy
to take part ia this noble choral service. wait
'ior hali au hour, hoping that The singers will
do not and ketire, having learned for the first
time Of what u bass voice II capable In sacred
music.
Although the Russians spend SO much money
TO celebrate the failure OF Napoleon, they really
ADMIRE THE AMBIGUOUS GENIUS
OF the man and make no secret OF It. In every
palace and museum have visited 1T ST. Pc
tersburg and Moscow / have seen full.lengths
or busts Of him in marble, bronze or Oil. Some
are originals, others are copies. One painting,
entirely new u me, represents him with brown
hair, banged In the treasury OF the kremlin
the guide shows you Two camp beds which Ma
poieOn left behind when ne evacuated Moscow.
tie IL always indicating to you the street by
which Napoleon entered or Withdrew from the
city, the steps up which he walked, the doors
through which he passed, the chairs in which
sian hero: The people sttll point with q certain
pride to the marks 81 cannon shot and bullets
and say, Napoleon"