The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1886-06-09
FASHION AS 1T FLIES.
Midsummer Dresses.-Jacketsa and Mantles.
Varieties.

Very dressy black toilettes are in great IA
voI at present for dinners and afternoon re-
ceptions. The special fancy for these Is
waist of black watered silk with lace shirts,
and these French dresses should be stripped
across or 'engthwise, as the wearer chooses,
with pan Of the skirt of scalloped founces
or of The wide lace the whole length of the
skirt, yet scalloped on one edge, and the re-
mainder of piece lace, which is far more eff
fective for drapery. Marcy bows of watered
ribbon trim the front of the waist and the
side of the skirt and large watered sash
makes the drapery more bouffant. If the
corsage is basque, it is laced in front and
has a V at the neck in front only. Ii a
pointed waist is preferred, as for very elabor-
ate dinner dresses, it is laced behind, and cut
down in V both in front and back, and all
sleeves are omitted, or else there are elbow
sleeves of the lace used as a transparent,
tied just above the elbow with a ribbon
bracelet. Short sleeves are thought to de-
tract from style in these dresses, and the
preference is given TO no sleeves whatever
or at most an inch-wide bias fold of tulle
like that which edges the V neck. To give
variety to the toilette, women who know
how to economize have several waists for
lace skirts; one of these may be of lace like
the skirt, another of velvet, and third OF
CT Grape. or of striped silk, or Of the
Wat-i ed silk just described.
White canvas dresses for midsummer, as
thin as any grenadine, have large cross-bars
of blue or scarlet made of thick wool like
English crewels passed in and out of the can
vas meshes. These are made up with most
graceful Jackets that have pleated shirt
oh # holt in,
front of red or blue English morocco fastened
by buckle. The shirt-blouse front are of
plain white canvas with box pleat in the
middle stitched near each edge, with feather
stitching in red or blue; the broad sailor col
lar and the straight wristbands of the shirt
sleeves are similarly stitched. The deep
drapery has a cross barred apron with a
revers of white, with feather stitching, and
the pleating at the foot is also white with
this feathery vine for its finish.
The dress Just described should furnish
hints to the young embroideresses who ask
the Bazaar bow they shall embroider their
summer dresses. This feather design is the
same as that known by many as brier stitch
ing. and is the simple pattern seen on French
under-clothing, gown, and flannel skirts. 1t
is rapidly and easily done, and is commend
ed to the home dress maker. 1t is seen on
lawn-tennis and yachting blouses of white
flannel wrought in blue, or in white on blue.
Very heavy white embroidery is also seen
on the costliest cotton dresses shown at the
rooms OF fashionable modistes. Large seal
lops and lengthwise stripes of rose vines
graduating narrower away from the scalloped
selvage from the greater part of summer
dresses of pale blue, pink, lilac, or buff ging-
ham or Chambery. These vine stripes alter
nate with box pleats of plain gingham down
the front and sides of the skirt, and form its
gathered full straight back They are them
MI al ir,o ho frs1 ii Al
OF basque OF the plain color, or else they
are wide enough to transform such a basque
into a bOuffant Marie Antoinette polonaise.
Sometimes Nalenciennes insertion alternate
with these rose vines in the basque or polo
naise, and down the front and sides of the
skirt NaleEciennes lace forms full jabots
on the basque and edges the scalloped en-
broideries of this costume. The idea of
stripes it will be seen, is carried out in these
embroideries, as in many other things of
this seasons toilettes.
The jacket, the dressy little mantle and
cape, are the only garments used for the
street. The ulster is kept as a resource and
for travelling, especially ocean voyages, but
1T is not seen upon the promenade as former
ly. The walking jacket for young ladies pre-
sents itself in so many fascinating DISCUSSES
and is so exactly what is needed-as an ad-
dition, not as a covering, for pretty walk
ing suit-that il is no wonder it retains ALL
and more than all, its old-time prestige.
There are many varieties-some of which are
very striking-adapted to the seaside, to a
morning walk in country grounds or garden
TO ride on coach with party or a sail by
moonlight, but not to city streets Those
who wish to render jacket serviceable upon
''all'' occasions should avoid the red jackets,
the jackets with white or buff vests or very
startling buttons, and choose the good cut,
the standard fabric and simple style though
the finish may be as fine as any; and silk or
satin lining or facing should be considered
indispensable.