St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-09-26

gIlSn tailor Styles nave won 100 StIOnS u
hold TO be relinqulShed, and with a few
variations remain the same in general cut.
French fashions in walking dresses find
favor outside the city, especially at the
South and West, while New York's women,
whose fine forms are set off TO advantage by
tailor suits, adopt English styles i'll the
promenade.
The new cloths imported by merchants
for tailor suits are heavier and hrmer III
texture than any goods previously imported
for women'S wear. Scotch cheviots in
cool. pretty heather mixtures are promi-
nently shown. There are also many hair
stripes OF silk on dark wool ground.
Heavy AngOra cloths which range in price
from So 30 to 50 90 a yard are among new
goods on fall counters. The cloths are
shown in the new heliotrope and prune
shades, in brown, green, dark
blue and other fashionable cOlors.
Some of the heavier Angora cloths
intended for winter wear are woven in di
agonal ribs of two contrasting shades. like
slate and brown, chocolate and tan. or navy
blue and tan. There are gay Knicker
booker plaids in shades like slategreen,
drab and black, with overShot figures IN
red. which are offered at the shops for solid
tailor costumes. There are also many
Scotch plaids in clan patterns and fancy
eolors Heavy canvas cloths, which are
similar in weave to the etamine cloth of
last summer. but warm enough for fall
wear, are exhibited in all the new colors at
from 81. 80 to $3.50 yard.
The heavy camePs hair with rough
hairy surface. sergeS and bison cloths in
solid colors are extensively used by fashion,
able talors. Cashmere is a favOrite mater
ial with French mOdisteS this season, and
black and white combinations Of all kinds
will be considered stylish; the side plating
of black and white satin. so popular several
years ago, Will be revived this fall. There
are many fine serges in black and dark col
Ors. with hair lines in red or in white cross
ing them, dotted with dark dots of silk
plush. These goods are imported for the
use of dreSsmakerS, and will be made up in
combination with plain goods.
The new tailor suits for autumn wear are
usually made with habit basques which are
quite short on the sides and are finished
with a vest, simple cuffs and an extremely
high collar. New standing collars some
times measure three inches in hight. and it
is said that the collars on the frocks made
for the Princess of Wales by her English
tailor measured three inches and quarter,
the princess having an exceptionally swan
like neck. The new vests are often left
open at the top and two flat reverS added
to display a chemiset of fine plated lawn
needleYOrk or embroidery. There are
many Short-puffed vests which only reach
to the bust line and are finished on either
side by flat reverS Ornamented on one side
perhaps with fancy buttons.
The drapery on all the new tailor frockS
is abundant at the back to admit the enOr-
nous tOurnure now considered necessary.
The sides of the dress are left quite fiat and
plain. while the front may be finished by
tablier of embroidery or pyramid of plait-
ing with revers of braiding on some cloth
in strongly contrasting color: thus a blue
serge dress is finished with panels and re-
vers of white cloth braided with dark blue
braid.
All the new wraps made by tailOrS are
extreme either very short, like the new
driving and walking coats and NANTES, or
reaching to the foot of the dress, like the
ulsterS. The style of these garments de-
ponds entirely upon the exquisite tit which
is given by the ladies' tailor, all
garments being made to order.
Driving coats are shown in tan shades, in
dark brown, and other cOlorS. There are
gay wraps which are popular with English
girls; nantes in crimson bison cloth. SIM
ply edged with black and gold cable-cord,
which fit the figure at the back with eX
quisite precision, while they are left loose
in front, with large square sleeves. There
are also entire ulsters of dark crimson
bison cloth. braided with heavy cable-cord
in self-color. listers for durable wear are
made of mixed Scotch tweeds, and notified
horn buttons nearly an inch in diameter are
used. For fall wear ulsters are made
single-breasUed, and are usually left open
from the waist, but it is said the winter
garments will be double breasted and
trimmed with furs.