Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1886-09-26

with many of us in civilized countries, bul
the silk hat still holds q high position
among us, varyin:
w. ] +. !. !. !. !: !: !: !: !: !: !: q; !. a. !. &. 4: !. !. . !. !. !. !.
WEs@ Ms though, accordin.
NMM HlE4H to it's wearer'i
EHNM E stature. The sill
&gEA fh!M hat is an institu
&kAR EtH@ ton, and changes
q I6hFS TIEl9 little from year II
~~ year. But if the
silk hat of two OF
three wears back could be placed alongside
of the hat that will be worn this winter,
considerable change would be noticed. I'm
silk hat this year has rather more bell.
than last years hat, and the bell is al
most entirely on the sides-that Is, from IN
front, the bell shape is very evident, whlie
from the side the hat seems almost cyllndrl-
cal. The brim this year Is heavier thah tnat
ofIast wears hat, and has less roll to 1t, what
roll there is being less fiat than last years
If 4 man wishes to be fashionable In Ills
hats, he can do no better than get such n
hat rs is here shown. If he does not care
to wear Il silk hat always, he can select
DERBY" hat such rs is shown below. Inc
crown is more tapering than was last
years Derby, and the top is more curved.
The brim has the same shape rs that OF II
silk hat. Black Derby's are going 10 be
as fashionable rs ever, but for those VINO
like lighter cOlOrS there isa choice between
seal brown and manilia-brOwn, the latter
of which is the very latest thing out, ~
and IS going to be much worn.
The crush hat this season is modelled
after the silk hat, instead OF having the
form of its W which it has held SO
long. -,
The overcoats that fashionable men Will
wear this winter are not very different
from those they wore last year. Inc
singlc-breasted chesterfield and the lou
bic breasted heavy OycrcOat will be worn
by polite society, and the double breasted
ulster. with Il cape, is to be revamped,
while the very swell Inverness" will be
worn with full dress by those whose peck
cts or the innocence of whose tallOrS can
afford it.
For those men who have to get new
dress suits this year, there is little choice
of material. The whole suit is made OF
blue black diagonal cloth; blue black SIM
ply because dead black diagonal cloth can
not be procured from England, where the
dress suitings comes ~w
from. The cut will hHG,S S0liIA
have n shawl roll to NHNf4tS NDNH
its lapels, which WIM
will be faced with essVdS%
heavy black silk &
and the most cXpen-
Sive and correct coats will have silk col
lars. The dress waistcOat will be Just long
enough to reach the line of the coat, and
will be cut low enough to show only two
bosom studs of the shirt. The line of the
opening will follow almost exactly
the roll of the coat, the opening being
even larger than that Of last
years dress waistcOat. The waistcoat can
with propriety be either white or black,
and the black one en- be trimmed or uu-
trimmed. Many waistcOats, however,
will be of black or cream-cOlored silk or
satin, embroidered on the collar, down the
edges, and in the pocket wells, and those
who think they would like that sort OF
waiStcOat will find themselves backed up
by fashion. The trousers of a dress suit
will be rather larger than last years, and
cut straight, but not baggy. Stripes down
the edges of dress trousers have gone en-
tirely out of fashion, rs they are too mill
tary in appearance for this umilitary
country.
The newest thing in dress suits is the
dress sack, Il sack coat of black diagonal,
with a shawl roll to the lapels, and really
much like a dress coat without the tails.
Thisis to be worn after dinner, when there
are no ladies present, for smoking or cards
or billiards.
The Prince Albert coat will be of black
diagonal, with four buttons, and double
breasted. The opening at the collar will
be lower than heretofore, and the lapels
will be faced with black silk. No Prince
AlbertS will be worn Us business suits, and
the man who wants to be fashionable, and
at the same time wear n brown or blue
frOck coat, will have to choose between one
of his ambitions.
The entire tendency this year is to have
coats with lower openings than for some
time back, and the sack and morning, or
cutaway coats, will follow the tendency as
well as the Prince Alberts. The sack coats
will have less shape than last year, and the
quality of ones tailor will be shown in
the manner in which he cuts his coat, so
that it shall be neither baggy nor really
shapely. Trousers, business rs well as
dress, are to be straighter than last year.
The patterns for suits this year will be
quiet and almost indefinite. There will
be small checks and plain plaids and mix
lures, but the loud mixtures and stripes
and plaids so large that it took two men to
wear one pattern Will be things of the
past.
With a dress suit a gentleman who is
reasonably fashionable will wear a plain
white shirt and standing collar, with a
black silk or white lawn or Indian tape
necktie. He will, of course, tie his w
nacEtle, or get some one to tie it for him,
but he will on no account yet a ready
made white tie. The moderately fashion
able mans shirt front will be Of linen, or
plque. IF OF lllelr it may have only a
single pleat, being a ''pine-bOard" front,
or 1t may be in numerous narrow pleats.
The latter Is the old style trying 10 come
back again. lfhe prefers pique, he can
have the corTugatiOns of his shirt front
running either vertically or horizontally,
or so arranged'that the meet at the open
ing Ofthe front in a succession of VS..
Whether the shirts be plain or embroi-
~ dered, the collar will he
ESAplain, and the shape the
EB T. WI most fashionable will
k Z5Htake is this. The cuffs
" So Wwill also be white, and
NN5 fastened by links. The
" collars of everyday bus-
iness shirts vii also be white, whatever
the color of the shirt, and calered shirts
will he as fashionable for business dress as
ever. White handkerchiefs, with narrow
hem-stitched borders, are the only things
for dress, but narrow colored borders viii
appear on qndress handkerchief. Winter