Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1886-04-22
OUR NEW YORK LETTER
ROS1LIND MAYS TALK ABOUT
THE Fashions.
Spring MaterIais-styics OF Mating
rhem-cDb, rs.-Outdoor Garsen,s
-Nnt..s

New foRK, April l3-An oil I tiuie cut-
ting up is exchanged for modern nix%
ing. Some years ago material wafS
carved seduiously into small pieces, tIlikE
lthey might again be sewn together. TIsisi
form OF industry has Disappeared, but Iii
place of it, in many new fabrics, cotton.
wool and silk are so interviewer ihat 6lla
knows not which is which nor what ill.,
what. The three are combined III all
manner of ways in parallel strikes, In
figures of one upon another, &c, while in
truding everywhere comes canvas, now
in small keepings, now forming the body
of the fabric and in all intermediates
| gradations, not as hitherto confined 10
cotton, but also in silk and wool.
New wool etamines (canyas) show
polka dots; others have Chinese figures
and very peculiar and slif canvas
woods are of dark color bestrewn at reet-
lar intervals by outstanding white lii,irs.
Equally novel, though not so striking,
are porcupine mohairs striped, ,s also
mixture where one stripe of large diago-
nal in wool alterpates with soft flile silk
or where frise silk contrasts with a siuiilar
wool stripe. Pretty wool canvas cloth is
printed in delicate vine designs. com
nirgly portrayed twigs or flowers. niui
cuttou crap's nre stamped in Japanese
i,ieiIs, such Ms fans. trellis work, brniirht-
summer-horsts, DO The tylisli suiuui,r
silks woven in
MoSGoLIAN FASHION
have been mentioned MS predominant and
on the same order, but too striking To be
adopted except cautiously, are China
silks where very large open wheels or
huge circles are set interlacing or over
tapping, one color showing up through
the other with singular effect, the moreso
as the combinings contrast such hues as
olive, brown and red, brown, yellow and
black, green, yellow and red, &C., the
general result being decidedly tigerish.
Through all mutations, however fine, soft
cashmere holds position and is in large
demand. Camel's hair likewise, but this
latter is sometimes rendered novel
by very thick, soft wool threads
set in very long stitches and quite
apart from each other but forming en-
broidered patterns. Or again, there are
camel's hair goods woven in patterns or
borders that display Indian blanket
effects, while as another variety come
those showing resemblance of Indian EN-
broideries and also rude irregular forms
such as might characterize semi-civiiiza-
change from our usual refined finish.
Lace can be reckoned among summer
materials, 80 extensively will it appear as
the greater part of dressy costumes, the
more so, as colored silk often shows
underneath, both giving support aad
serving to bring out attractive Spanish
and other patterns. Grape, both white
and colored, will be in high favor, and
for light mourning, there is special style
in white Grape costume with bunch of
v1olets.
coLoRs.
Dress goods colors are always impor-
tant, not only in themselves but as giving
the keynote in all other departments.
Thus while light colors are more fashion
able in millinery than they have been for
long while, yet the hat or bonnet will
constantly match the dress, as will
hosiery. "On the listn as stylish, come
blue, green, bronze, brown, slate, drab,
tan, plum, wine and garnet. There are
from three shades upwards, in all but
plum, while less freely used, because
more conspicuous yet also in different
shades, are yellow, red, orange, gold,
pink, with q modicum of magenta and
lilac. Thus we have variety enough, and
amorg dress-makers, Clark's "Mile End"
cotton is in special demand, because dyed
carefully to suit every new shade. Its
admirable sewing qualities are known
everywhere.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS
speak different languages to suit different
wearers-expressive jauntiness, as in case
of the tan or red cloth, figured and col
ored velvet, braided or rough cloth jack
cts; greater dignity where the immensely
popular short wraps appear, devised in
broeade, in suit goods or for summer, in
grenadine or lace, with colored silk lining.
Long redingotes give that seriousness of
aspect which befits the shopper or the
traveller, especially if displaying stripes
or checks. Elderly ladies are usually en-
veloped in long cloaks, and these are
capable of much variation from sober
cloth to handsome lace ones lined with
colored silk; the last being too attractive
not to find favor in the eyes of younger
people, gradations being brought about
by degrees as to brightness of hue. Scarf
mnntillas are talked of, and among the
prettiest spring wraps suited chiefly TO
the young, are mantillas with long ends
crossed in front and fastened over the
tournure with stout hook and eye. Lace
trimming, mostly guipure, is liked for
these graceful garments, akin to which
are wraps reaching but little below the
waist at the back, but with very long
ends hanging straight, the latter quite
people. Circular wraps for carriage wear
at watering places, are of lace lined with
colored silk. Nearly all wraps have
blight Innings.
sLAsHING VERSUS CUTTING. ~-rS
Mat erial is not cut into bits which are
sewn together again, but the dressmaker
delights to slash that she may lace up.
This lacing up is quite feature. Not a
| few costumes are laced down the front to
the exclusion of buttons, but the two are
sometimes united. Sleeves are slashed
that they may be laced, and skirts are
slashed and laced ad libitum. Nightly
convenient sometimes, especially for the
doing over of secondhand material, since
two or more pieces can thus be made
one and in ornamental fashion
US well. while upon new goods,
these lacings IRE often so pretty as to
atone for recklessness of cut. Another
very convenient and pretty fashion is
& ut of waists different from skirts. A
dark waist gives look of slenderness
which will allow plump person to wear
light skirt and per contra, thin waist
is no little relief with dark, serviceable
skirt. scarce need say that jerseys are
valued and variously ornamented insti-
tuition, and jersey cloth is now used
along with non elastic goods, new style
waists having jersey cloth sleeves with
bodice portion of something quite diff
ferent, but of course matching in color.
APRIL NOTES.
Very iaunty silk dresses of dark color
are made with red jersey cloth yokes.
Hooks and eyes are coming up again as
waist fasteners, but at present are mostly
used with plated fronts and SO arranged
us to be overlapped by folds.
An effort is being made to introduce
the high tuck comb with Spanish mantilla
and fan, ".
Jet beads as large as crab apples are
seen. and among other new jet devices,
are acorus, fir cones, heads of barley, rye,
&c., sometimes mixed in chenille trim
mings Novel beads are also of smoked
pearl.
Round hats have a long black lace
: scarf at the back which is brought round
and passed under the throat. Beaded
bonnets with open work wire frame are
worn without Innings.
Oash's coventry filings retain a stand
/: ard popularity because really pretty and
: warranted to outwear the garment which
. they trim. The Victoria filings are used
: for pillow shams, the Britannia and Broad.
,, way for underclothing, being obtained of
all rounactahIa dry pooda and notion