Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1886-04-21
For the SPECTATOR

An old time cutting up is exchanged for
modern mixing. Some years ago, mate
rial was carved sedulously into small pieces,
that they might again be sewed together;
this form Of industry has disappeared, but
in place of it, in many new fabrics, cotton,
wool, and silk are SO interviewer that one
knows not which is which, nor what is
what. The three are combined in all man.
ner of ways, in parallel stripes, in figures
of one upon another, etc, while intruding
everywhere comes canvas, now in small
peepings; now forming the body of the fab
ric, and in all immediate gradations; not as
hitherto, confined to cotton, but also in silk
and wool. New wool CLEANLINESS (canvas)
show polka dots; others have Chinese fig
ures, and very peculiar and stiff canvas
woods are of dark color, bestrewn at regular
intervals by outstanding white hairs
Equally novel, though not so striking, are
porcupine mohairs striped as also mixture
where one stripe of large diagonal in wool
alternates with soft faille silk, or where
frise silk contrasts with a similar wool
stripe. Pretty wool canvas cloth is print
ed in delicate vine designs, cunningly pof-
trayed twigs or flowers, and cotton grapes
are stamped in Japanese ideas, such as fans,
trellis work, branches, summer houses etc.
The stylish summer silk, woven in
MoNGoLIAN FASHION,
have been mentioned as predominant and on
the same order, but too striking to be
adopted except cautiously, are China silks,
where very large open wheels or huge circles
are set interlacing or overlapping; one color
showing up through the other with singu-
lar effect, the more SO as the combinings
contrast such hues as olive, brown and red
o,,I
and red, ETC.; the general result being de-
cidedly tigerlsh. Through all mutations,
however, fine soft cashmere holds position
and is in large demand Cancels hair like
wise, but this latter is sometimes rendered
novel by very thick, soft wool threads set in
very long stitches, and quite apart from
each other, but forming embroidered pat
terms; or, again, there are camePs-hair goods
woven in patterns or borders that display
Indian blanket effects, while as another va
riety come those showing resemblance of
Indian embroideries, and also rude irregu-
lar FORMS such as might characterize semi
civilization, but are pleasing because they
give change from our usual refined finish.
Lace can be reckoned among Summer mate
rails, so extensively will it appear as the
greater part of dressy costumes, the more
so, as colored silk often shows underneath,
both giving support and serving to bring
out attractive Spanish and other patterns.
Grape, both white and colored, will be in
high favor and for light mourning, there is
special style in white Grape costume, with
bunch of violets.
COLORs.
Dress goods colors are always important,
not only in themselves, but as giving the
key note in all other departments. Thus
while light colors are more fashionable in
millinery than they have been for a long
while, yet the hat or bonnet will constantly
match the dress; hosiery, ETC., the same
"On the list as stylish, come blue, green,
bronze, brown, slate, drab, tan, plum, wine,
and garnet. There are from three shades
upwards, in all but plum while less freely
used, because more conspicuous yet also in
different shades, are yellow, red, orange,
gold, pink, with modicum of magenta
and lilac. Thus we have variety enough
and among dress-makers, Clark's emile
End cotton is in special demand, because
dyed carefully to suit every new shade
1ts admirable sewing qualities are known
everywhere.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS
speak different languages to suit different
wearers. Expressive jauntiness as in case
of the tan or red cloth, figured and colored
velvet, braided or rough cloth jackets:
greater dignity where the immensely popu-
lar short wraps appear, devised in brocade,
in suit goods or for summer, in grenadine
or lace, with colored silk lining. Long
redingotes give that seriousness of aspect
which BELTS the shopper or the traveller,
especially if displaying stripes or checks
Elderly ladies are usually enveloped in long
cloaks and these are capable of much vari-
alton from sober cloth to handsome lace
ones lined with colored silk; the last being
too attractive not to find favor in the ewes Of
younger people, gradations being brought
about by degrees as to brightness of hue.
Scarf mantillas are talked of and among the
p-ettiest spring wraps suited chiefly to the
young, are mantillas with long ends crossed
in front and fastened over the tournure
with stout hoo, end eye. Lace trim ming
mostly guipure, is liked for these graceful
garments, akin to which are wraps reaching
but little below the waist at the back.
but with very long ends hanging straight;
the latterq lite suita BILE for middle-aged and
elderly people. Circular wraps for carriage
wear at watering places, are of lace lined
with colored silk. Nearly all wraps have
bright Innings.
sLAsHING VERSUS CUTTING.
Material is not cut into bits which ale
sewed together again, but the dress maker
delights to slash that she may lace up. This
lacing up is quite feature; not few cos
tunes are laced down the front to the exclu-
sion of buttons; the two are sometimes uni
ted; sleeves are slashed that they may be
laced, and skirts are slasfed and laced od
iJitum. Nightly convenient sometimes,
especially for the doing over of second hand
material, since two or more pieces can thus
be made one and in ornamental fashion as