The Irish standard., 1886-05-08

strips of bronze plush in groups, or else
with cross stripes Of plush in graduated
widths quite broad across the foot and be-
coming the lnerest line near the belt.
Beige cashmere, when used for the bas-
Que and draperies is associated with IL
similar sheer fabric Of ecru ground, on
which are brown plush stripes, or else a
group of stripes of different colors forming
one wide stripe, such as porcelain blue,
chaulron, bronze green, brown. and
myrtle green.
Stripes saslles, lengthwise pleats,
revers and very bouffant draperies, some
of which are long and others very short,
are the features that are confirmed for
next seasons dresses. 1t is said that
flounces are to be restored to favor, but
at present there is so little to corroborate
this assertion that the home dress-tnaSer
is advised not to destroy new materials
by cutting them UP into the many small
strips necessary for pleatings or rutfies.
The narrow foot-pleating which is sewed
on foundation skirts is needed to support
the outside skirt and long draperies, and
should be placed there for this purpose
even when rot visible. Moreover, this
pleating on the edge of the skirt makes
it look more graceful A device of the
nodistes to prevent the skirt being thrust
forward st every step of the wearer is
that Of making three slits upward in the
foot OF the front breadth Of the foundation
skirt Each of these Sits is TWO or three
inches long, and the braid which binds
the skirt extends up the Sits also. OF
course these open spaces are hidden en-
tirely by the outside skirt.
Velvet and also plush will remain in
favor as the accessories of summer
toilettes, to ttgive character" as the
1nodistes say, to many fabrics that are
almost colorless. For instance, spring
visiting costume OF moss green cashmere
will have long redingote- polonaise Of the
cashmere whice meets in front only at
single point in the corsage, and on this
will be wide Directoire reyers Of darker
green velvet, a dog-collar of velvet, narrow
cuffs of the same, a belt with buckle, and
large square-cornered pockets OF velvet On
each side, held by buckles or buttons.
The skirt and the plastron OF such dress
will be OF velours etamine or plush-striped
canvas, either in cross or perpendicular
stripes, according as the height OF the
wearer may require, and will be disposed
in very broad knit pleats, Of which, per-
haps, only four will be visible their whole
length, and those are directly in front.
The polonaise will slope away from its
single button at the top Of the first dart,
aud fall in lengthwise pleats in front and
behind, while the sides form broad panels
on which pockets are set.
+; 1e. oil
brown wood beads for brown dresses, are
again imported in gal]oons that have
straight edges, or else with one edge only
form dog-collars and cuffs and also in
very large ornaments that will cover the
entire back OF nlantles, or else their fronts
in vest shape A novel combination is
that OF oxidized silver with jet beads,
leaves or antique beads OF the silver being
set in the midst of jet beads Of different
sizes, some fine and seetl-like: others large
and fat as nail heads, and many cut to
droop in flower shapes or like bangles,
sequins, etc. AS jet is to be used on col
ored dresses, it is found combined with
colored beads especially with garnets and
with finely cut steel beads. Another
novel way of introducing little color
amid Jets is that of adding clusters Of real
seeds, such as inseed and the seeds of
the fig tree. Cashmere colors in single
ornaments and in galloons are shown in
the smallest fine beads like mosaic bits.
The rosary carved beads are now most
seen in brown shades, and are very
effective in new leather trimmings that
are galloons made Of narrow leather
strips braided together and dotted with
these beads.
Buttons of two sizes are again pro.
y;ded for each Dress those for the corsage
being fat and about half an inch in dia-
meter. while those for the skirt and
Jacket repeat the same design and are
two inches ACROSS. Wood with metal and
with carved pearl are the buttons for new
spring woollens, the rim, Or else the entire
foundation. being generally of wood,
Flowers are cut in pearl and set in
frame of carved brown wood, Or else the
button is Of smooth polished wood, on
which are metal beads or flowers in relief;
sometimes three profiles of helneted war
rors are grouped together Of different
rletals--bronze, steel, oNidizeti silver, OF
duh gilt A row of eight OF ten of these
large buttons is set down one side, or both
sides. or in front OF the dress skirt, while
smaller ones are on the reverse Of the cor
sage: or OH the slope beside Il vest, or they
are set ou q belt, or i'll almost any uuex-
pected place, where it is put foE ornament
lnertly--not use.