Morning journal and courier., 1886-11-29
A CHAPTER ON SHOES.
Queer Shapes fol CrIppIes-A Costly Pair
 for Belle.


 "Are there many queer shaped shoes made?'' l & reporter asked shoe dealer.
 ''Lots of 'em," was the reply. ''We make quite business of shoes for cripples. You'd be surprised at the number of people whose l underpinnings require building up on one order or the other. Some limbs are short l ened from habit of standing, but usually | disease, accident or parental deformity is \ the cause. Cork cut up in thin layers makes ! up the lining of the thick soles. It is light l and thus prepared possesses the requisite l elasticity. We make corked soled shoes for
 men who do not possess uneven lengths in | lower limbs. Stanch old business men who have learned the value of keeping their feet dry wear cork soled shoes in winter. Now and 1 then a little man who is ambitious and dis I g1 antled because short that the crowd overlooks him comes to us to be boosted up. We have made cork shoes for actors who play robust tragic parts and lack in nature the stature that the part calls for. Ministers, also, who are somewhat abbrevi- ated come to us to be shod so that their pulpit presence will be more imposing. Half an inch on the bo tom of mans foot makes vast difference"
 Isn't the custom shoe trade falling off on account of the low prices for which the fac tory shoe is sold?'
 
 for comfort on the part of those possessed of money, and so long feet are made in different moulds, the custom trade will be good as ever. There are men who would go barefoot rather than wear 8 factory made shoe. They could not do it if they wanted to. suppose we have 800 customers for whom we keep special lasts that perfect counterparts of their pedal extremities, in form at least. Bits of leather take the place of great toe joints and painful bunions When man gets s shoe made over last like that the breaking in process loses it's ter TOT. The tendency in mems shoes is toward common sense shapes Broad, low heels, and fairly wide rounded toes are most sought for The box toe is thing of the past. Pointed toes are only worn i'll patent leather dress shoes, and they are not so ultra as two CT threesyears ago. Men are not alone in their dress for comfort in foot gear, although some of them have rows of shining half worn shoes standing along the mop-boards of their chambers. Women are becoming very good customers of the order made shoes
 Twelve to fifteen dollars is the limit for gentleman's shoe. l know pair or Ia dies shoes on exhibition in Broadway win dow that will bring $1O0. They were made for Murray Hill belle, who has pretty foot and an equally attractive pocketbook. They are made, save the soles, Of plain black satin. Rhine stones set in solid silver form the buttons. French heels are still worn in dress shoes, but New York women do an inn mense amount of walking, and have learned from their English sisters that they cannot do it in narrow, high heeled shoes. Children and old ladies wear what are called "spring heels" They are in reality 50 far as the eye can see no heels at all. Many girls of 10 wear this style of shoe. When you see a lady whose walk is the poetry of motion you can put her down wearing low-heeled: broad solsd foot covering. There was quite trade last winter and the winter before in skating shoes These are broad heel, liberal soles, light calfskin shoe with light lace tops. Roll CT skating has declined, but ice skating will doubtless be more popular than ever If the mercury goes low enough between now and March The high lace tops are great sup port to the ankle, besides looking particularly neat"
 Sixteen cents per diem prison contract la bor, aided by split leather uppers and paper filled soles, has brought ready made shoes down to price that places them within the reach of all. Some of them, fair to see, sell for as low figure as $1. This class of shoe and the cast off made border shoe of those who can afford such luxuries are principally sold in middle basement shops in Baxter street, the Bowery, First, Second, Sixth and Ninth avenues. Many get into the pawnshops dur ing the summer when their owners put on their Oxford ties and the second hand deal CTS pick them up at an average price or Si . pair. Only well preserved shoes are accepted at pawn shops, and these the dealer can dou- ble his money on.
 A great many old shoes are gathered up by the rag-pickers. They are purchased for song and repaired by the secondhand deal CTS workmen, blackened, and in the dimly lighted basements present very fair ap- pearance There are thousands of persons ke pt busy all the year around in New York repairing and putting new soles on shoes, -b active a day is a small average for a stirring person, and twenty miles day over New York nag stones soon polishes off 8 vast amount of sole leather