New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-10-03
NEW PARIS FASHIONS.
MRS. LANGTRY,s FINE CLOTHES.

PARIS, September IL.
| Although the weather has been unusually war;
during September the principal dressmskng establish
ments have already exhibited many autumn COS
tunes. Among them arc dresses made for actresse
aud singers who have signed contracts for the comm
season In America. A visit to Worth coroborate
what all other couturiers have already asserted-tha
plush will be used and combined with all costumes
| plain or elaborate and that fur will have the mo
| nopoy over all other trimmings. limitations IL
| astrskan and chncha will. a heretofore. be use'
| for cheaper garments. but fine specimens oil rea
marten fox beaver and chinchilla form the princpa
enumeration Of articles Of dress which are ordered
by ladies accustomed TO deal In those large establish
ments.
Mile. Louise the chief attendant at Worths. put
on beautiful carriage dress for me to describe A
plain skirt OF silver gray velvet gathered full at the
back In the old Brittany style was bordered Gil
around with there gradated bands Of cbnchilla fur
Over this fell tunio OF silver gray ottoman cut In
long overlapping points In 'front.' lined with cherry
colored silk, and bound with narrow bands oil rhe
chinchlla; the back part Of the tinic lay In deep
long detached box peats whose intervals allowed the
velvet skirt to show. The body was OF silver gray
ottoman all the edges of 1t were rolled over WITH
ohinobilla "a 1t were entirely lined with the fur
and II had very high. tight neck band OF the iur'
This toilet was completed bv gray velvet garment
short In the back rolled under and resting on the
tournure, and having wide flowing sleeves adhcrent
to the back 1t paneed in points In the front and
the whole was trimmed with fur with "motf" OF
gray, silver and gold thread passementerie coming
over the shoulders and ending in points front and
back.
The reddish browns have taken the place of seal
skin shades and bright copper that OF scarlet the
latter is used extensively for trimmings. beautiful
costume for New-York lady was Of plain reddish
brown ottoman. the skirt pleated into narrow Ian
shape in front and gathered full In tho back over
this fell long poonase Of wide striped plush and
long-napcd uncut velvet forming two panels down
the sides growing they tell, and edged all
around with wide band of brown beaver. Back of
the polonaise were long box pleats opening at the
sides to show the ottoman skirt The corsage was Of
plush with pleated front of the ottoman finished Oh
with baud of beaver which extended around the
neck down at the Sides and there meeting the fur OF
the polonaiss.
Garments for calling. CARRIAGE AMI evening wear
are all made very full and very long, loosely enveop-
ing tho whole figure. One saw at Worths was OF
blue marine cloth lined with changeabo light blue
and cherry silk; it tght-ftting in the back and
long and flowing in the front and had long. wide.
large motif" of old gold arranged in the back to look
like transparent cuirass. Another of Persian cloth
woven with threads of gold had bias bands OF crimson
velvet and flowing vclvet sleeves extending to the
middle of the back to enlivcn the peculiar dull tnts
OF the Persian fabric
Felix has tho most unique styles In Paris. beau
tiful model of garment mado of shrimp brooade
velvet lined with changeabe shrimp and light blue
ILL, II al rid oliara q he
cloak was fastened at ono side and gathered to the
waist by immense cord and tassels For calling. these
loose garments thrown off and given to the foot
man in the vestibule. sanitary precauton IN over
heated houses.
Jackets. for ordinary wear, now made of shaggy
flannel they will certainly take" because they are
becoming warm and not beyond the purse OF many.
A very pretty one exhibited by Felix shaggy
that 1t looked like astrakan. only the nap was mixed
with crimson threads and tho whole woven on
crimson cloth. The only trimming immense
bronze buttons with a lions head in relief.
Hats and bonnets are less loaded with trimming
than last season. As usual. felt hats will DO much
worm and a lady must have to the match the color
of every costume. Feathcrs-great tufts of them-
dropping on the left side, with a long one falling
toward tue back will be the avorise trimming. Birds
and wings will be than ever. but they give
felt hats n very stih appearance. The straw boero
with close turnedup brim-one side higher than the
other-with tuft of pompons or artstcally made
bow of ribbon the pretiost headgear In the market
Capoes are still made transparent; many made oi
chenille to match the color OF the dress. Jet capotes
have become too common to be by searchers
after novelty mixture OF old gold and scarlet ia |
still used to make ev enng bonnets. Une OF these q
capote whose crown is composed of joined bradng OF
old gold ending in loops in the 'front.' these loops
on another series OF loops made of narrow puzzled
scarlet velvet ribbon at the left is high tuft of
scarlet feather pompons mterminged with graceful |
velvet bows All the capOtes have strings and are |
worn us small as ever.
In one of my rounds at NJ ne. Roderiques met |
Madame Nilsson trying several simple costumes |
for short stay mt Barritz. The Swedish songstress
has not vet decided whether she will wend her way
Russia or to Span. Meanwhile. her engagement to |
Count Miranda has not as yet eliminated in mar
riage. Madame Nilsson is very fond Of blue. and |
sue is the alrcst OF blondes the color very becom
log. One of her dresses dark blue vigOgne, |
having full draped short skirt with wide side panel
of very coarse blue ue shot with old gold polka dots
the panel was cut in the middle by OF blue and
gold striped ribbon bows. close-fttng jacket OF |
blue vigogne was bound with blue silk braid like
mans coat vest was added Of the old gold dotted |
tue; high collar with an old gold tie Madame
Nilsson not give much scope for dressmaker's
invention in her usual walking and carriage cos
tunes tho other blue lying on chairs were
almost similar to the one described.
In contrast to that simplicity are the gorgeous toilets
that Mrs Langtry has ordered at the Felix establish
ment for her coming in America Just as |
entered the door one of the models trying on a
superb garment which NJ Felix surveying with
critical eye. You have como just in time" he said.
confess this is one of the handsomest pieces
which have come from my house. Pray look at these
folds how gracefully they fall to the feet What
orm will not look divine enyeloped in these velvety
lraperies p saw at that the great dressmaker
had fashioned Mrs Langtrys clothes
,more This splendid" garment was made OF