Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1886-02-19
CHRISTMAS IN ALGERIA,
JOURNAL or THREE DAYS.
BY A YANKEE ABROAD.


lunches, have tried to follow Yankee ways in
my peregrinations; the benighted Frenchmen
cannot be taught and make so many blunders
that give up teaching them the New Worlds
ways.
A carriage is at the door to take us
1. To the Jardin des Oliviers, sacred grove
Of olive trees shadowing the tomb Of a saint.
The tomb is a small mosque with dome, daz
cling white. Inside the faithful go and pray
kiss the tomb, the walls, as pilgrims do in all
countries.
>. To the city park, a good spot to idle
time away, with trees, plants, shrubs unknown
in the northern United States, but found
everywhere in Algeria.
B. The city is within q square wall with a
gate on each side-a police protection only,
the wall could not resist serious attack.
t. We follow the road which runs up the
brook whose waters form Blidah's greatest
attraction. The brook is formed by springs
which burst from the mountain they are
themselves the subterranean result OF a lake
situated high up, some GOOO feet, fed by snow
and rain. When it rains, the waters, running
down the bare slopes, swell the brook which
then becomes a torrent but there is dliodys
water, fresh, running water-an enormous
boon in this country.
The road ends in a valley Of the Atlas far.
ther it is only a bride path leading to Arab
villages S. and l aligbt, investigate the
path; on turning, we perceive our Lady in
the carriage surrounded with Arab boys ask
ing for pennies. One of them knows some
French words and many Spanish he relates
how his ''pddre Is mOrtO, how be has to help
his mother. Our Lady somehow manages to
converse with them, and finally orders her
purse bearer to distribute pence and pennies.
or course they are pleased, and shake hands
with US men but the Yankee stops them,
tells them that in America, across the big
ocean, "mUjeres san regiRds, and makes the ID
shake hands also with our Lady. They do it,
but look at her with intense curiosity it up.
sets their notions about women. Our doings
are bribing the Arabs. Many salute US as
they pass-a very unusual custom they hate
the Roumis.
We proceed to the cemetery where are
buried Sidi-el- Eebir and his two sons. Saint
Kebir, on shot day, came and rested on this
spot; olive tress grew mirAoulously y-Allah
shaded his servant The trees exist yet; they
are 1000 years old Itis Garden Of Geth-
semane.
A narrow path leads to the sacred spot. On
both sides are houses Of marAbouts connected
with the cemetery; they look like farm houses.
We penetrate into one Of the yards, and per
ceiye a number OF women around the dodr.
When they see u.s. they retire inside and look
displeastd with the intruders. We men with
draw our Lady proceeds. is well received by
the feminine band, shown over the house,
which she reports clean and well-furnished
according to their customs and better than the
poor novels commonly met with yet prob
ably only New York Irish shanty could com
pare with the exterior OF the establishment.
Near the cemetery are two small mosques,
entirely empty and bare with the exception
Of carpets on the floors. Near by are sheds
against bad weather, all built with stones
freshly whitewashed and of a dazzling white
ness.
The cemetery itself is on hill, entirely un.
protected by any wall or railing. Tombs
neglected, falling to decay. Two small slabs
indicate the head and foot OF each tomb
The most recent ones have a hollow in the
centre to receive the rain and allow the birds
to drink from it. As birds represent the
souls of the dead, these are indirectly bene-
6ted by the pious precAution. MussulmAns
are described as most Indifferent about their
tombs, and I am surprised to find some slabs
with Arabic inscriptions just as we have in
English. The tombs OF the saints are small
monuments of coarse masonry, with recess
in which candles are placed to honor those
who, living, shed light on the world. Let
| your light shine before men, so that they may
see your good works and glorify your Father
in heaven"
Numerous coffee. men, candy men, have al
ready planted their wares, ready for the show.
The whole calls to mind the preparations for
a country fair.
As we leave, we meet four men carrying on
long wooden table something covered with
a large green aud red silk sheet, followed by
a few individuals-all walking rapidly. We
| guess that it is burial. They hurry because
the Angel of Justice is waiting; the soul is
not judged till the body is buried. We hasten
to follow. We find them around a freshly
| dug grave, discussing the arrangement Of the
fiat stones on which or under which the body
must rest. 1t is a little girl, five years old.
When everything is ready, the body ia slipped
| into tho tomb under the silk cloth, which
hides it completely and is kept over the tomb
while AN old man srranges the body in its
resting place 1t is customary TO bury bodies
| L. - l.
to allow the earth to absorb them more prompt
| ly; thus dust returns to dust without delay.
| (Latey there was a discussion on that very
point in the American papers.) The father
and the brothers of the dead child fill the
tomb partly with their hands, a marabout
squatted on the ground, looking at his I'm
gers, chants prayer; then the Oldest broth
er joins him, then others, and the chants con-
tnue till the tomb is entirely filed. They
seem anxious to put over the body all the
earth removed from the grave; they cAress it
as il they wanted TO oaress the body itself. At
distance, with her back towards the tomb, sits
lonely woman, probably the mother, who
weeps for her child, but is not all owed to
come to the tomb. Presently a mArabout
distributes bread and figs to the company
takes some to the woman. 1t is the same
idea represented by our former aud actual
| funeral meals in btfi iction, remember those
who may be hungry. The whole scene ia
sad, but characteristic of the race and coun.
try.
We close the afternoon with drive through
the orange groves which surround Bldah.
1t is said there are over 80. 900 orange trees
in the district millions of oranges are eI-
ported. They are not fully ripe yet the sea
sou is in January and Feb ruary. They are
inferior to our Florida oranges and much
smaller.
We meet a camp Of mountaineers or Kaby-
| les-basket et-mRkeTs-whos show our Lady how
to begin a basket. They are a race of sturdy,
strong. tall men. As late as 10 years ago they
tried to shake of French dominion they ara
yet but half subdued, and at any time may
try to regain their independence. Descend
ants of the old Numidans, they we're nevei
fully subjugated by the Romans. In the vast
invasion of Arabs following Mahomets death
they became Mussulmans, but they have only
one wife, and are austere in their religious
views or ignorance. Some have yet the blue