Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1886-10-23
am ABOUr rms YAsHiOSs.
The Prevailing Coiors aud How They should
Bs Made Into Gowns and iSAsquss.

| elaborateiy trimmed In front, and are per-
| fsctly plain In tho back, sometimes being
entirely without postillion peats, or some
| have all the pleats In the middle seams very
| thickly Tapped upon each other, and cut In
| points y, the end. The sides of basques are
gradually being heightened TO cover the hips
more deeply, and French dress. makers give
tho effect OF shorter waists than those Of Eng
| lish models. The vest, the plastron, the
| separate waistcoat, the pleated shoulders, the
| surplico fronts tapped to the left side, and
revrTs OF all kinds arc seen on the newest
| Paris dresses. II IL hardly possible TO trim
| tho front Of bAsques too much or go astray
| In the design, as tho variety IL now great
| that any style becoming to the wearer Is
| fashionable. White vests and those OF very
light color are considered dressy, and most
| generally becoming. The directive revers,
broad and quite snowy give the effect OF
| breadth and are seen on the richest and sim
| plest dresses alike. Collars remain very
high and close, and are often OF two ma
teIials, that In front matching the vest or
| plastron, and that on the sides ana back OF
| the dress fabric IL OF the third material used
| for trimming. An outside coat, a short visite
| ora sleeve cape, especially the cape with
sling sleeves, completes the wooden suit for
| mid winter, aud Is usually finished of with
fur, even though no fur Is used on the
dress
| New Polonalses. Most graceful and sim
ply shaped polonaises are seen made Of
| cloth over plaid or blocked velvet or plush
| skirts Of contrasting color The cloth polo
| naise IN Tapped 10 the left hip, and has a
| tri.cOrnerCd Tevera or panier on the left side
| only While the front drops In a low apron,
| the ght side Is pleatet aud the back forms
fall In straight iull pleats and are open up
| the middle and sides TO half conceal, half dis
| close the skirt beneath. The neck Is finished
| with a pla.tron OF the material OF tho skirt
| Visiting Gowns For afternoon visits and
| receptions gowns are combinations OF two or
three fabrics, such As cloth, Bengallne and
| velvet, or else OF velvet with BeDgaline and
| beaded panels or fsilles may be the principal
| part olthe dress with velvet its accessory
| and iur with gold beaded passementerie as
| trimmings and the French contur'eres In
| protest against giving up satin combine 1t
| with velvet In especially elegant toilettes
| Many OF these rich COSTUMES are without
| dTapgry in the front and on the sites, though
exceedingly full Ia the. back others have
| front panel OF velvet or OF beaded passetnen.
tefIe with the isIlle or satin seeming to open
over tnis canght up thencs on each hip and
ashort curved back drHpery OF three breadth
that IN the middle OF this ialle or satin and
the other two OF velvet like that in front
great many dark-red shades are used for
velvet toilettes, and for these are the passemen.
terieS that ha, red stones In them they
are also fur her lighteued by rose pink plas
| .iUus OF SILK muslin gathered or pink Grape
| tulds tor rest collars and cuffs.
| Prevailing coloTS-Heliotrope, green,
Suede and other brown shades prevail
| among French costumes with also a decided
use OF brighter blue and gayer red shades
| than have yet been employed for entire toll
| ettes. One of WOrth's fancies IL that OF using
| Suede tan, and even dark orange with a.
| most any of the new c0lors, but especially
with the moss green which ia now In such
| great favor. TBe newest fancy in red dresses
IL for bright wool that il almost scarlet, and
this color Will be greatly used by very young
| ladies who are reDeling against the duh
shade es so long used, but there is also very
stylish dull brown-Ted, or reddish-Drown
| similar 10 the terra.cotta shade worn two
| years ago, which comes in the richest new
| labIlcs, and Is especially commended both by
the French and Anglo-maniacs Tor outside
| wTaps-elther coats or yisites--to be worn
| with dresses OF contrasting color or of
similar shade, or 10 brighten black toilettes.
| tits useless to decry black dresses, as has
been the custom Of late, since many OF the
most elegant imported suits are black
| throughout, or else in combination with white
with Suede, with green, or the revived
| bright or dun red shades
PEW FASCTEs.
Short basques are going out OF favor.
| -Four button gloves are the latest fancy
| Very few dresses are made Of one fabric.
Collars of dresses grow higher and higher.
| The newest corsages are longer all around.
| Very few short draperies are seen on win
| ter gowns
| \.lypt will be rnurh used ss a cOm hinat,on
| tor all dresses.
| Paris coStumers use soft twilIed woods for
| winter gowns Instead OF the heavy English
cioths
-, s,,, ,t sD ,oi, sI lnoris
| which ara n7,ite tniI
| The more elsboralely basaues are trimmed
this winter the more stylish they are consid
ere', OUT this trimming Is only in 'front.'
| f'Ioi Rlses are again revived, ana are 10 nc
| worn III AL lanflcs anu considered very s'y!'
| lsn loF h"" Wool uftsses'
morning toheltes are pecomlng more anu
more masculine, and now oorrowa a most oi
small details from gentlemen dress.
Among the many elegant ana costly ulm
mlheS ior WISHING and dinner dresses mnch
admiration IL bestowed upon shaued ieather
phnus
| oulslue OF me morning toiiette, when Is IN
realty traNehng dress, and IL sill TAILOR
Haue, not one uress IL made ot a single iaD'
nc.
InrDahs VIII De worn In great numbers
thls winter, In velvet or push trimmed with
iur, or else made entirely ot fur.
Inc capote mas succeeded IN shrinking
Ihto sun shaiier proportions anu slaihihs
ah even greater height than hitherto Dy
means OF erect riopons III ioops' ieathers' etc'
to.Ists are peco,nlnB hlgner ana hlsher,
anu thlS winter VIII teach thelr limit al the
chin' fecaiing lhe collar formerly worn py
retired military supotdlnates. sometimes
ms collat y uiiniheu 10 resehole heckiace,
WIN ehp'"'"eiS ahu "i"fs o' !et VI oiu