Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-04-03
From Our Own Corresponds


Can Appreciate Them.
From Our Own Correspondent.
NEW YORK, April ID.
The most contrary opinions are expressed in
regard to the fashions of the present season; so
that from these it would be exceedingly Diff
cult for an unprejudiced observer to obtain any
satisfactory idea of what they are or whether
they represent any really good beautiful
qualities.
at is perfectly fascinating" remarks one
lady, "to even look at the shop windows this
season. Did you ever see SO many pretty things
before in your life?' ooh! Mama" cries girl,
pouring her eager soul out upon glittering
beads, isn't that too lovelye" While an older
woman-refned, but energetic loofing-says in
q decided tone as she steps from the door of
popular and crowded establishmentc-"Soph
Ican't stand this; do let us go somewhere and
IND something hit to buy and TO wear
confess 10 sympathy with the last speaker.
Such a
"vANITY FAIR"
as the high stripes, the glittering gauds the tin
seled fabrics, the contrasts OF snowy color. the
masses of coarse lace, the pendant glass, the
beads and big buttons present, has never been
matched in any person 5 recollection; for never
before were the resources so numerous and
available for the production and reproduction
OF light and color. Have we got beyond bar
oariSm or the simplest chid's pleasure IN
beads? One would say not. for the majority
OF the glitter; and call that beautiful which has
less real claim To their admiration than a we'll
worked, old-fashioned mOccasin. In the midst
OF the display and forming part of 1t, are
masses everywhere, OF much-trimmed under
Clothing; at prices which makes one feel sick at
the thought OF the wretched mOiety paid TO the
poor women who make them. There is no
growth to feel proud Of no progress in any true
he, so long as we are willing to crafty vanity
AT the cost of other wOmen's lives. The cost
OF lace and needlewOrk trimmed under
garments has been reduced to the lowest
m f1ar in hsgr--
window, tied with ribbons and lined with
pink, blue, or lavender tissue paper. the lace
and embroidery turned TO the front, are gar
ments which look as ii compOsed almost wholly
OF these materials, marked 20 cents. IL is not
surprising that girls and Inexperienced women
thousands of others-experienced, weIl-to-do-
who can afford to pay fairly for what is done
Tor them; yet, who Will go from block to block
and street 10 avenue, to buy a snowy, over
trimmed chemise or nght-gown a few cents
cheaper or with a little more trimming upon it
Tor the price; for it is less to save the money
than to add to the volume of ornamentation,
that time is spent and trouble taken. In one
WINDOW are women'S drawers tucked and trim
med with embroidery, finished with bands and
button holes for % cents! How much of that
long since Work -women-seamstress
pad % cents each for the making alone, OF one
pair of drawers by hand. The sewing machine
has not done much Tor the paid worker.
THE NEW THINGS.
There are many beautiful things; and If not
many that are new, many new applications of
old ideas, if one only knows where to look for
them The fault of the popular" styles is,
That they are inGiscriminate. The beauty of
high 1ashion-that is, of those models which
represent the taste and intelligence of an ex-
peTlenced and cultivated ciass-is, that each
one Is adapted to a special purpose; and has
had thought and care bestowed upon its every
detail Oneot the best tests of quality to-day
Is color Allth old, soft. lovely shades of color
reappear and are put together in exquisite COM
binations without forming any startling con-
trasts. These colors are fast-fast in cotton as
hen
10 make the uninitiated appreciate their value
sent 10 distance from the business centers-
where women generally have better oppor-
tunity for education in color-the receiver is
very apt TO think she has been i'm
have been sent to 'n her ila goods as
new. The difficulty In describing them lies in
and the putting of the natural vocabulary to
artificial uses Thus. there is a lovely new
Ereen-a quiet, grassy shade-which combines
customed to call "grass-green' than the green
OF the paper shade is like that OF the dark,
ground-myrtle. All the different shades of
stone" blue and tinted white appear in the
inner materials, such as chuddah cloths and
pure indian cashmeres; the former being equally
line, but having the camel's hair finish a
novel combination is Redfern's latest touch in a
Jacket The material is fine, sandstone cloth
trimmed with peach" velvet; a lovely dark
an -all-over' embroidery is executed By hand:
IN cord, which is mixture OF peach
SIX sdas and cop copper thread; The copper"
and the color Is reproduced in the silk lining
A daughter OF one of the millionaires who have
recently settled in New York, has ordered a
costume in this combination, to include Jacket
and hat. The dress will have a panel pointed
collar and facing for drapery of the EN- brodered
velvet; and it will also form the crown. brim
and upright leaves for the hat. Some very
styIsh, grey wool dresses have been made re-
Gently; the embroidery executed with oxydiZed
silver cord, or rather, thread. The work is
equal to any done abroad; but it is very costly:
quantity oft upon a jacket or mantle: but the
elect Is very novel and distinguished: and a |
gray cioth costume with silver embroidered
would render the wearer a woman of mark,
LENTEN COSTUMES.
Gray divides the honors with black "a n |
Lenten costume; and the very newest Service,
touches consist of gray, cloth dress with oxy- |
died embroidery upon the jacket: and crown
and brim of the bonnet; and gray embossed
leather prayer-bOok with Old silver clasps and |
mountnss. A dress which may be and is worn
with AN oxydized silver embroidered Jacket
consists OF a combination of plain gray mate |
rial with a round. moon-figured cloth in two |
SHADES or the same color and inner line of |
white The figured wool was used for the front
OF the skirt and the jaeket-bodice Including
sleeves; the plain for back of skirt plated sides
and knife piaitings at the foot Strines arr
sun USED; put some ladies are replacing them |
Win very large checks; the lines forming the |
check being narrow, the blocks large A dress
OF TINS kind was recently made for the Princess
OF W aies-without trimming-except a drapery
the right shoulder TO the left OF waist There
was "A drapery front and back over a kilted |
SKIRT. y handsome black serge dress made for |
The Lenten season had a straight skirt. made
with very nne clustered plaits and wide snaces
IN 'front.'; a full back, hanging in gathered folds
anu snort, perfectly fitting basque trayersed |
Dy letted straps which formed diagonal hines.
finished with long, jetted buttons Strines ara |
useo 10 all sorts of wayS-upright and in baya-
oere fas hlon-but the newest thing is 10 have
Them form diagonal lines o
THE LENNox JACKET
Is pretty novelty in white cloth. The COLLAR
cuts and corners are embroidered in simnle
chain or outline stitch, with a color. but not a /
striking color. The soft, gray blue. known as
Sevres, the delicate seablue called tbe ST.,
or the rich peach shade in silk rnixed viii
gold thread, are all very much admired. and
can De used oy any worker, the patterns heinz
easily executed The feature, however is the |
Initial or monogram of the owner which il |
wrought In the corners OF the collar and the
lower corners OF the fronts OF the Jacket which
Is nned with silk the color OF the embroidery or
with white. A Partisan jacket of the very hest
type, Is oil sot, nne, gray cloth, halffttinv but-
toned over in a diagonal lineand simply 6on,5
with galoon and faced with silk OF the san,a
color. The buttons are not large and are of fray
cloth set In nne rim OF silver. There is an air
d exquisite refinement about these Little oar
mentsi and complete costume in tho same
style Is well called The VestaI: Tor there - ~
expression or virginia. purity and geutleness
toat Sc Parates III from all others OF its class
A GREAT REDUCTION
In the amount OF drapery is the most obviors