News and citizen. [volume] (Morrisville, Vt. ;) 1881-current, 1886-04-22
A CHINESE EATING HOUSE,
VISIT TO A MONGOLIAN RESTAUR.
ANT IN CHICAGO.
A Place where Knives and Forks are
UnknOwn-Queer Food, and How
xuae CauuoH

| UnknOwn-ClueeF Food, ana How
it was Served.
The old saying that one-half the world
does not know how the other half lives
was never more forcibly impressed upon
J me than yesterday afternoon when | made
one of party which, headed by Wong
Chin Foo, descended the steps of the
basement at 269 South Clark street.
Our energetic little leader had promised
us a surprise, and we got it. When we
saw him heading down the stairs we
thought he was after a change of linen,
but this was not the case. The sign
above our heads read: 'Ban Sun Coy,
Chinese Restaurant and Grocery" The
merry twinkle in Wongs eye answered
IN the affirmative our inquiring looks.
At the door, a dense and pungent odor
saluted the nostrils and for moment
took away the breath of even experienced
| ChicagOans. We found the basement di-
| vided off by thin, wall-papered partitions.
Under the sidewalk we caught "a
| glimpse of a "coon policy-shop" with its
group of anxious white and black faces.
On the right hand, facing us, was the
entrance to long, narrow passage to
the kitchen. On the immediate left
A'iiN nhS tllS lhiNdbC d dJdi tAlChJ oHN
office of the proprietor, with its clean
hunks, its desk, and cash window.
Straight ahead was the dining room, and
straight ahead we went. The apartment
was about twenty by thirty feet, and
contained upon the right side a table
covered with white cloth and capable of
accommodating at least dozen. On the
immediate left hand were four round
fol I Il
cloth. a doorway guileless of door
joined this room with the kitchen, in
which were dimly seen three persons en-
gagged in concocting the celestial cuisine
Against the back partition was a side
board gaily ornamented with red paper
and kniCk- knacks. The walls were
papered with pecu' lar pattern, relieved
at intervals with oblong red placards
which might be anything from imperial
ediCts to bills of fare Around the top
of the walls was frieze made of smaller
placard placed closer together These,
Wong told me, were the cards of last
New Years callers. While he rushed
out to find some more of his countrymen
the proprietor emerged from the kitchen
and smiled kindly at us.
One of the party, wishing to relieve
the Chinaman from embarrassment, said,
in a voice of great distinctness: "AIr.
Wong will come back in minute" To
which the proprietor replied, in the
purest English: eyes, l suppose so.
Will you be seated, gentlemen?" The
first speaker turned a little giddy and
nearly sat on the floor. Mr.. Ban
handed around box of Chlor d'Limas,
and by this time Wong returned with
party of friends, whom he introduced
severally. Among them was another
WOng-a cousin of the little Mongolian
journalist The new Wong was much
taller than the other and fat Then there
was Ching All Hen jackson and several
other gentlemen with names and costumes
more or less Anglicized. Chairs were
placed around the large table, and Wong
superintended the bringing in of five
large bowls with steaming contents.
"Now, gentlemen" he said, "let us sit
down"-and down we sat Upon the
table before each one was placed pair of
ebony chOpsticks-and nothing else. Be-
side the bowls and the chopsticks the
cloth held nothing. No plates, no cups, no
knives, no forks, no salt, no pepper, no
water, no tea, no potatoes. Nothing but the
steaming bowls out of all reach and those
ridiculous sticks. Then the walters brought
in four. small bowls filled with rice wine,
and placed before each diner minute
pottery dipper, if l may so describe
miniature bowl with handle running off
at an angle of 45 degrees. In this bowl
repOsed a little cup, the rim of which
was about the size of a 2-cent piece.
Each one under Wong's direction lifted
up the little cup and dipped it full of
wine, replacing it in the dipper The
wine was like very strong port, and
was the only liquid on the table.
Some little practice is required to man
iCNNHtc I'rop"rlv tho CtNiuca~ s,,t>atitute
for knife and fork especially whom there
are no plates used, and the track OF the
food from the bowls in the center to the
guests mouths was marked by line of
grease splashes upon the cloth. The
center bowl contained a soup of peculiar
flavor. Two of the others contained
what was really fricasseed chicken. In
the other two were curried chicken, and
a mixture of something like escalloped
oysters with soup and mush-
rooms. The popularity of the whole re-
past was its high favored condition.
Everything was spiced to the topmost
notch, and the throats of the CauCasians
cracked in their reproaches against their
owners. The chicken was cooked bones
and all. The bones, by some unknown
process, were softened and mashed till
they gave as little trouble to the escoph-
agus as do those of the sardine. Every
one helped himself and all ate from the
same dish in the most sociable manner
Once and awhile the chop
sticks of an American and Chinaman
would seize upon the same morsel at the
same moment, but the almond-optic gen.
tlemcn invariably gave way with the true
politeness of oriental hospitality. The
dinner did not come on in regular courses,
but when we seemed to have had enough
of one thing, Wong would send the bowl
away and replace it with something else.
Several varieties of Chinese vegetables
and fish made their appearance and
were sampled with great interest.
with an unpronouncc-
able name, but which was really
fish tripe, was voted great
delicacy, and lobster, prepared in pc
culiar way, was also a gastronomic sue
cess. The soup contained a great variety
of strange vegetables, among them
dark-green sea moss. Instead of our
salt there was provided small dishes of a
llQulQ prepared from DedllS, anu WHICH
answered the purpose Then small pud
1ings of white rice flower cunningly de
signed to represent an opening flower
were found to contain sweet interior of
beans and mOlaSscs, or some sweet sub
stance Bowls of rice were brought in,
but it was eaten hot and dry without
milk or sugar, which accompaniments
ire thought by the Celestials to spoil
both rice and tea The rice was seasoned
md spiced rather too highly for Ameli-
,an palates, and Wong mercifully or
Tered in some condcnsedmilk and sugar.
After the repast was finished cigars were
produced. the board was cleared, and
clear tea brought in. A very interesting
discussion on the Chinese problem in
America was begun, and several intellc-
gent and thoughtful arguments advanced
by the host and his friends. This is the
only Chinese restaurant of the kind in the
city, and on Sundays a great deal of
money is taken in here. The expensive
Chinese vegetables, however, reduce
the profits, so Mr.. Ban says Chicago
NetoS
Health and Sunlight.
Health cCaLorS should mako II a nOint