Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-03-14
FOR THE LADIES.
SOMETHING ABOUT THE FASHIONS FOR
THE SPRING AND SUMMER.
Spring Jackets-English Rough Coats
Nantes Dresses for Elderly Ladies'
Caps, Gloves, and Hosiery.

jackets for the spring and summer, and
to make them of more even length all
around, but the jaunty jacket with
short back is apt to remain in favor as
long as large tournures are worn. New
jackets may be close to the figure, or
only three-quarters fitting, with
slightly loose fronts fashioned by
single dart. Single-breasted jackets are
most seen, but these have revers turned
back on each side with large buttons,
or a vest is inserted which may be
quite plain, or else Of soft material
gathered like a blouse. The corners.
Of the fronts are now rounded instead
Of being pointed, and the slit pocket is
curved to follow the outlines Of the cor
ners. The back has two stiff box
pleats, or is Tapped in the middle seam
like mans coat, or else is plain. with
all the seams closed to the end, bat is
cut with spring enough to allow for
full hustle. The collar is high stand
ing band, to which in some cases
turned.over collar is attached at the
top. There are also many Tapped
Jackets with fancifully-shaped fronts,
partly diagonal and partly straight,
though few are cut in the regular dou-
ble-breasted shapes worn during the
winter.
ENGLISH RoUGH-CLOTH COATS.
Rough cloths, especially the boucle
cloths, are used for plain jackets, and
these are usually of two colors well
blended, or else they are striped or
checked. These jackets look very
heavy. but are really Of lightweight,
ard their only trimmings are large but
tons, and an edging Of cord or of braid
put on in " tailor finish " on the edge.
Tobacco-brow darker brown, mode or
gray shades, navy-blue, and black are
the colors seen in these new coats IN
some cases blue and brown are together
IN the boucle cloth, while others OF
brown or blue are Illuminated with red.
DBEssY JACKETS.
More dressy jackets are made Of
smooth cloth, and are elaborately
braided with mohair braid that is
black, no matter what the color Of the
cloth may be. This braiding stands
out in relief, being sewed on one edge
instead of resting fiat on the garment,
and is in the old-fashioned vine pat
terms and in geometrical figures. \
y-shaped vest OF braiding, witha similar
V in the back reaching to the waist-line,
is a very effective arrangement. The
high collar and narrow cuffs are
also braided, and there may be
an inverted Y on each Of the
box-pleats on the tOurnure. French
Jackets have open sleeves, not deep and
flowing, but much wider than the ooat-
sleeves of English garments. Cords in
deep curves, frogs, brandebourgs. and
passementeries will ornament spring
jackets in even greater profusion than
they have those worn during the win
ter, Light tan-colOred jackets will be
worn with dresses Of almost any color,
and especially with black dresses.
Bright-red coats are made Of twilled
cloths and serges of light weight, to be
used for driving in the park and
over summer toilets, or with "print-
gowns " (as English tailors say in the
country and at the seaside. For carriage
visits are still more dlessy jackets Of
frse velvet made up in tan shades and
in black frise figures on copper-red
grounds; these are an innovation, and
point to the revival OF silk and lace
paletots that French modisles have long
desired to bring about.
Long redingotes Of rough cloths,
checks, and stripes are imported for
travelling cloaks and for undress gar
ments, but are not now made of eXpen-
siye materials, as they were formerly.
MANTLEs.
Short mantles will continue to be
worr for dress wraps, because they do
not conceal the handsome costume with
which they are worn. The paletot
front is the new feature in mantles, and
is made in pointed sack shape, fitted
by dart on each side, while the back
is that of short mantilla, and the
sides have flowing dolman sleeves, or
may be turned under to form the
square sleeves so familiar in the y!sltes
row worn. Another novel idea is that
Of putting Figaro or a curved zouaye
jacket at the top Of the new paleCot
fronts; thus when the mate
lialS are combined in these pale
tot mantles, the Figaro jacket and the
back forms are Of one material, such As
velvet or ottoman silk, while the sides
and the long paletot fronts are of beaded
grenadiDc or lace. Black, tan-cOlOr,
tcru, and moss-green are the cOlOrs seen
in dressy Inantles, and beaded fabrics
are much used in cOlors as well as black.
Entire mantles are made Of jetted
grenadine lined with black, gray, copper
red, OF green. and the trimmings are
frills of French lace on the edges, and
beaded passementeries arranged in
V shape in the back and front,
and also in a shorter Y on the
sleeves from the shoulder to the elbOw.
Medici collars with lace frills inside
trim the neck. For early spring there
are short mantlcs of tan or black frise
velvet, the latter with cOpper-red ground
made with full vests of soft repped silk
set in Y shape, while the velvet of the gar
ment is pushed back beside the vest,
gathered on the shoulders, and held at
the waist-line by ribbon belt that is
sewed in under the square sleeves.
The collar is turned over in Byron
shape and there are turned-back cuffs
the edges are finished with beads, but
otherwise these wraps are unframed.
CLoAKs FOR ELDERLY LADIES.
Long cloaks of twilled cloth, with
straight fronts and close back with full
skirts, are imported for spring wraps
for elderly ladies. Similar garments
are made OF thickly-repped silk and of
picce-lace for spring and for summer.
DRESSES FOR ELDERLY LADIES.
The dresses worn by elderly ladies'
have round basques and long draperies
less JOu0ant than those Of young wo-
- on and are made OF soft cashmere