Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1886-09-22
NEW YORK FASHIONS.


Roanoke, Va.
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
-MILLINERY-NoTEs.
[For the SPECTATOR
To marry coachman, as Schelling must
acknowledge, is crime; to desert him,
greater one; but to wear coachman's coat
is thought one of the prettiest things a
young lady can do. 1t must be of smooth
colored cloth, chiefly tan brown, dark or
gray blue; fitting closely; long, double
breasted, and with turnover collar. These
will be extremely popular this Fall, and by
means of heavier Innings may be worn all
Winter. Other favorite jackets will be also
tight fitting and ouble-breasted, but short
and of fancy cloths-diagonal, chevron,
boucle, or simulated braid-cloth, usually
colored. The small velvet, plush, and
beaded mantles, introduced last Spring,
will be stylish enough this season, and new
ones are made in the same way. For Win
ter wear, thick wool cloth with beaver back,
displays the new ideas prominent in wool
for costumes, such as simulated braids,
chevron patterns, ETC., colors of course cor
responding.
are not only imported in great quantities,
but in very noticeable novelty of style.-
Chevron woods are such as show diagonal
weavings in all Sizes so set about as to pro-
duce singular results. Very broad (inch
| wide) diagonal stripes traverse half
breadth. meeting obliquely in the centre,
| and feature in making up will be the
placing of this centre in the centre of backs,
| in panels, etc. From such extreme there
are all gradations and variations in chevron
stripes, many being very fine, and set about
| in fancy squares, or as a diversifying ele.
ment in stripes. Ordinary diagonals, in
consequence, come largely to the front, as
likewise serges. The hair-line striped
woods of last Spring. re-appear this Fall in
colorings, and are additionally stylish by
the fine twill between. Cancels hair-cloth
is rendered gay by narrow stripes from
which bright colored hairs extend in porcu-
pine-quill style; other woods display combi-
nations of chevron weaving, bourette and
boucle loops as where circle or square of
chevron is surrounded by bourette dots from
which depend loops. Another marked fea-
ture in woods are the simulated braid pat
terms. This is very unique idea and has
the effect of Open-work braid trimmings in
greater or less number, set on the goods,
but which, however, are woven in as part
and parcel. One had best give free range
to fancy here, since it would be impossible
to do justice to the many different styles
and widths, while unions of color come in
at times as completing element. For the
most part, the several features in woods just
mentioned, appear separately, but again
they are united in fanciful ways. The mix
ture Of
DIVERSE FABRICS
in the same piece, as time goes on, grows
more apparent, but almost without excep-
tion in stripes which take the place of bro
cades. Stress has already been laid on this
idea, but it is so prominent that some repe-
tition is not amiss, as we'll, also, as mention
of quite new examples where plush is ar
ranged in fancy ball-patterns, forming
stripes on wool. Very fine wool stripes in
rich Oriental hues alternate with plush or
velvet, and there are silken passementerie
cords woven in fine wool, that have the ap-
pearance of being set on as trimmings
Black and dark colored beads swell the list
of variety giving fancies; quite fine and
usually alternating in rows with some of
the striped patterns just mentioned, al
though there are expensive woods where
bead-work is set about in mathematical or
interlacing designs, to the exclusion of flo
raj figures. Apart from unions of wool and
velvet, in the same piece, special style will
attach to costumes of plain wool made up
with plain velvet. Here, the corsage and
of velvet, and sometimes, perhaps. velvet
val 70 fln NM
importations and are combined with frize
stripes or bands set on. There is always,
however, large class of conservative peo-
pie, who always turn away from pronounced
novelties, and for such there are the GUS
tomary importations of plain cashmeres,
| cloths, silks, and velvets. Fashionably
made, such time-honored fabrics have quite
as much prestige as anything with the ad
vantage of being always worn, and capable,
therefore, of being re-made upon occasion.
MILLINERY.
Black beads set on wire with colored vel
vet showing up from below-in other
words, beaded bonnets lined with velvet,
will be very fashionable, being an offshoot
| from the open-work jet -bonnets of the Sum-
mer. Braided felts are also a consequence
| of Summer styles rather than anything orig
| inal, and yet in some sense they are so,
since felt arranged in braid patterns is real
ly novel. Embroidered velvet bonnets are
| also extremely pretty novelties. In self
colored silk or silver threadings, nothing
can be more chaste than this silver embroid-
cry on black or dark -colored velvet, and
really suitable by its rich moderation for all
ages; not too conspicuous for the elderly,
dressy for the middle-aged, nor inappropri-
ate for the youthful. Silver finds its way,
too, among the charming silk embroidered
bonnets, and is here likewise with modest
cleaning, no small addition. Extremely
beautiful Opera bonnets will be made of
white or pale-colored velvet, embroidered
in silk of gay natural colors, while as nov
city, more suitable for day, however, are
fiue cashmere bonnets covered with Orien-
| tai handiwOrk.
| SEPTEMBER NOTES.
Jerseys take their place as an institution,
and are brought out not only in exact keep
ing with dress waists as to cut and OrDa-
mentation, but now have whalebones. EN-
bossed Jersey cloth is handsome novelty,
and is either ready made-up or sold by the
yard. The popularity of Ball's corsets goes
on increasing, not only in the city but the
country at large. The wire sections at the
sides which allow perfect liberty of move
ment are more and more appreciated, and
it is not therefore surprising that the de-
mand is greater than the supply. Prices
are moderate and Ghey can be obtained ev-
erywhere. PointsF esprit net promises to be
in high vogue for founces, edgings, inser-
tions, and fronts. Embroidery is more or
less rich, chiefly in flower designs, and the
edges are scolloped. Black, dark fashiona-
ble colors, ana evening shades, chiefly the
Iattar are noticeable.
EosALrSp NAY,