New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-09-19
HOW TO SELEOI 4 PERFUvr
NECESSARY TO HAVE A TRAINED Nosv


NECESSARY TO HAVE A TRAINED Nosp
THE MANNER OF MAKING SOME or rnr POPULAR
BRANDs-rHosE THAT ARE ALWAYS IN FAVOR.
You haven't n cultivated n0se,r said q
manufacturer Of perfumes IN large stors downtown IA
customer, who admitted that he could not remember
that his haa ever been subjected any particularly
in,igorang process but ne asserted that he had uar
feet confidence ia his ability to pick just what
wanted.
THAT is the trouble wsa almost every one," con-
tinued the dealer" who attempts select perfume
when not used to II. That who has ust LETT here
VIII not be satisfied with his purchase the next time
takes smell OF Il because he will not nnl IL 20 he what
he expected After that has not been raised n
The business emes four Eve sarnpes " cologne ths
favor OF will linger IN the nOstrils and then
ieTOr and poorer odOf introduced 20 these nger nc
scents, almost will form pleasing coabi
nation that is thought be satisfactory For The ms
being 1t win bs, but afte.wgrd the compounded OF
coOgnes will be called fraud. The sense ., smell 10
widely different in individuals ana the Imagination
helps along wonderfully. As matter Of experiment.
have placed rho kind OF cologne IN twelve bottles
labelled differently. and have had people take smell Il
all tho bottles amt detect resemblance o. each ore
TO tho Cover mentioned the label Again have
that they would pick ont from cora5i1a
ton Of odors each Ingredient and rarely you'd any q
missed Tbs a wonderful thing but the nose
trained 10 10 IT, ana the cologne Iahor must nave
faculty iD order make ~ any KIDD Of cologne rom
given sample This explains the method By which Tho
famous colOgnes are initiated and dealer car hardly
start new brand market before every 10 10
business Is making the same thing.
The best perfumes made from Covers The eiJ.s
that Is being made extract perfumes from peirO
and other things Will prove a1ortve. they
equal the delcacv OF the Odor o! geDrlo flower Tic
amount OF cologne made 10 America IS enoImous bus
II does APPROACH the quantity manufactured 10 Europe,
where It's use well nigh universal. Ia this country
perfumes are made from tie original Covers OILY on
small scale. and :hta Il is too expensive - 90 INTO
general competition such 5asis. The odcrs are
nearly all imported Ia the shapes OF oils and essences
aud from these rs a base the eoloSnes are msie In
naly foreign countries whole communities arc sap
ported by cultlvating and gathering flowers Tho cut
bowers are Usually placed u large gats uPoa which
proportonate amount of Taer poured. Ascr II has
stood tor q certain tine the process OF evaporation IS
hasteued by heat and the oil ia the flowers passes mo
vspOr. This Is then condensed and the oil Is iouId
GoaUng the water. The oil seems TO cobtain ths
aromatic principle OF pao5 , Io mae s Of T ~.
oils volatile that they cannot De 9ahcfeh III ths
manner They will fly OF IN the process OF distailo1
with water. aud the delicate suggestions Of sweetness
lost. To ObvIate tbs heavy or nAeu OIL .
employed. IL is usually the finest grade OF beef suet
This by heat is converted lntoa Hquls state ana the
flowers are put INTO 1t. The OdOT OF the plant VIII
pass into the hNei oil ana DC ned prisoner. 1ols
alcohol s also used In this method and Is ID tne -hal
o paste laden with the fragrance OF many
Damascrua which grows Ike a weed in Smyrna and in
Of Turkey aud France though The growth -
comparatively small IN inc IA tct cou.I5. 1ie 80
these lla,es collect this OH In SIMPLE manner Inc
rosts placed Ia water, and after decomposition SETS
m the oil aoats on the surface ana II Is absorbed ~
cotton balls deity dI ped into the liquid The cotton
sealed A bushel Of flowers will produce only a few
drops OIL The senulneis the most expensive !! IN
the market aud worth about 80 ounce II g
adulteratcd with oil OF rhodiun. wax aud other sub
the price Is arranged to suit tho pufchaser
n. .nilfu AKA III lis
state The adul;eraton has reached such hsh st"ts
Of perfection that even the most expert are deeehed
D. ratcnoun is made from natural plant grosing 4.
great abundance in The Malay Islands. anu Is Hcdt
fsvorito a. perfume. There Is growing demand no.
FOR lavender water. II Is made Dy mixing rose apd
ora Sg,ter. with the oil Of lavender aud has refined
and pleasant as well as refreshing Odor The English
oil oi - the best that Is on the niarAet aud
besides being used as perfume favOrie article
bakeries as flavor for cakes and fancy products Its
"a high stmulaut and an eihcieut ad TO digestion una
the system used 10 it, ana then II Is liable q
breed one OF tho worst forms OF dyspepsia Tls
Lavender shrub and tho essamlEe ant are cultivated
20 large extent III England aad France Tor us
industry The genuine heOtrOpe not rs One an 0i0f
as tue initiation Tue latter is known as the VIII q
Leiotrope and il made from combination 81 violet ad
vanilla, has sOpOrlnc tendency II brcathed f'r
4 ny length OF time. BergaInot Which with musk iorps
parativey cheap ell II Is made from small specie, ot
lemon, the best quality or which grows IN tue sand OF
sicily, and cultivated specially IOf TINS pnIt"se tue
nuit IL picked while hard and unr pc ana II takes
about 400 to Proinee pot Of OH under ressnio.
Bet ganOt Is slight Irltan ana II Is SAID IL False mar
on a bald head The distinguishing marx OF tue tube
IS strength, WHO inc 'Oci Is oDt am pure lno
verbeDa once great tayorts put 10 Is now .srey
called for. Tho gersnuu makes an elegant per-
Iue and Is nearly good tie altar OF ny
of Of tho richest perfumes. All
the lemon orange and dahUdl are much thought OF.
But tue best perfumes combinations OF tic
OFT slai doors There about ono hnud ell OF ;aem
many OF which baI their day The secret OF cOni
binalou Xix the doors ldt none Is prominent
aud AL lost Tie best two are the sHcien; e'd 10
Cologne and the cashmere bouquet To mix tie doors
they blond perfectly is dcut Que great obstacle
Is that the Odors mixed one or more OF them
Will fade away and disal pear having seemngly bcel
.tt<el nd
hin Ous are named after wel-kuOwn fragrant
substance as, for Instance new-mOwn hay. But tho
Of odOr 10 tho article named Is slisht
Indeed aud manufacture: relies on the Imagination
of The purchaser make up the deficiency Tie Old
stand ty amoug the combinations is the Jockey Gnu.
Ohcrs have Seasons Of popularity aud then PASS away,
hat The glory OF Jockey Club never dimed. and the
demand for IL never Next IN order OF favor
comes tho Wang ylahg. and the patchOuu which Is
Thought by many dealers 10 be tho beet all-rOnnd
ue fIo In the market Tho profits IN the perfume trade
are enormous and no Que will ever star,e In tis