Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1886-01-28
KOREA AND KOREANS.
GLIMPSES OF AN ANCIENT PEO-
RAE.
The Journey-Peculiar Charaeteristics-
Trouble in the Ancient Realm
Escape OF the King-The
Queens Birthday
Present.

| Trouble In the Ancient Realm
| Escape OF the King-The
Queens Birthday
| Present.
Mr.. EDITOR;-During these four
months which we have spent in this far
away country, | have often thought Of
the many friends in the dear home land {;
and, say you, that the friends have grown
less precious, or my birthplace less dear'
Nay, verify, there is no place like home.
Who says that the little town of Jones.
boro, down between the mountains OF
East Tennessee is dull place, a quiet
plane, SLEEPY Hollow Ssind'-of
place, that dreams away through all the
varying seasons like perpetual Sabbath?
One must stop moment when "Sleepy
| Hollow is mentioned. All, friends, was
not SLEEPY Hollow" charming,
charming spot, and has not this place
with that character all its own, unruf-
fled by the rush and hurry of a great bus
iness mart, which browns every welcome
country sound of bird or insect with its
distressing whiz and whir? Where in
deed is another such place? But you will
think me homesick il l indulge in such
fond memories, And perhaps you would
like better to hear how the other side of
the world looks. | don't mean the inside
but country which has ,litherto been
almost as inaccessible and unknown as the
center of gravity, and was thought to be
as unsafe place for foreign explorers as
is the heart a burning volcano, for the
few who venturcd in "ne'cr came out
again"
Surely ought to be able to tell you
something startling, at least something
new! | mean, however, TO tell plain, un-
garnished facts; and if they are neither
strange nor startling, circumstances and
not myself must be accountable.
After journeying for amonth and two
weeks we landed at Chenlulpo or Jinsen
on the east coast Of Korea. 1t was bleak
disagreeablc-looking place, with few
japanese and foreign, houses in the fore
ground and dirty Korean hamlet just
behind the hill We spent our night at a
Chinese "hotel," made of undressed
timbers and mud, not mitch larger than
good dog kennel, but it was far cleaner
and more comfor table than the miserable
little Japanese steamer in which we had
spent the last week at sea and wo slept
we'll. The next m2rp1 hayipY procur-
ed sedan chair, eight men and'a pony,
we started for the capital, twenty five
miles away.
The road was a pleasant one leading
over the mountains and through wide
green valleys, where we saw rice. barley,
buckwheat, beans, stock peas, cabbage
and turnips, and quantities of red pep
pers all growing in careless haphazard
sort of way. There were no fences and
no walks. Natures enchanted ground
it is with the veritable matched cottages
and faggot carriers Of poets. No horrible
patent medicine man has thought of get.
J ting to it or dared disfgure the wild rocks
with his handbils
"All the little grass peOple-the shin.
ing people that live under stones and dart
away when their homes are rolled off
from them, the people that live in trees
or among leaves or in Crevices Of the
| in, Op hal in o1,a
can live here and have everything their
own way. Birds sang on slender, bend
ing wild shrubs and lovely wild fragrant
things almost kissed each other across
the way. Gorgeous pinks and the sweet
white honeysuckle grow everywhere
without asking leave or license; but the
surrounding mountains were very barren,
having neither trees nor grass on their tops
| and they seemed cold and all out Of sym
pathy with the bright valleys.
DR.. Heron thought the people looked
like hopeless cases of health and longevity
as they came and went along the winding
up and down hill paths and across the
fields. Certainly they walked with a
freedom and grace SURPRISING any race
have ever seen; and they made pleasing
|
blue or white linen, high black hats and
pretty shoes. The coolies, or working
classes, were not pleasing to look at how
ever, for their clothes were neither white
nor sky blue, but decidedly "of the earth
earthly"
The country people livein little ham
lets, and, until we become accustomed to
looking for the little thatched huts in the
shadows of the protecting hills. we would
have passed many Of them without see
ing them at all, had not Nj. Underwood
called our attention TO them.
The most impudeRt msgpies. aud state
ly white storks could be seen holding un-
| friendly discussions in almost every rice
field, and as watched these birds could
not help comparing their hostile feelings
and striking characteristics to the Chi
nese and Korean races, withtheir marked
differences, and constant governmental
contests, and l find myself constantly
taking the part of the stork or Korean
Perhaps am prejudiced, but since |
have grown better acquainted with them
like their dignified, quiet manners,
queer but graceful costumes, and quick
, intelligent faces, better and better.
wish could give you a picture of the
president OF the Foreign Office, IS he
comes to visit us in his champan chair
covered with tiger skin presented by the
king as badge of honor. He has all his
servants following, and one on each side
supporting his arm. His robes are of
raw silk, hat of the finest silk and BAN.
boo, long gray beard, shoes and linen
stockings as white as white kid. He is q
man high in Korean rank, occupying the
second position, and Korean men of low
er order dare not sit in his presence; but
! he like all Korean gentlemen with whom
/ have been thrown in contact, always
treats foreign ladies with the greatest re-
! spect, never sitting when we stand.
/ But | am wandering, and ! must not
take up any by-paths until you have
safely reached the ancient city of Seoul.
I Its stone walks with castellated top can