The Worthington advance. [volume] (Worthington, Minn.) 1874-1908, 1886-08-05
A L1rY INDUSTRY.

A CITY INDUSTRY.
Toiling Women Who Make Mons
Neckties.
We hear great deal about the
"Song of the Shirt and the woes of
the women who make those garments.
but We pass by those who work at
men 8 neckties, says "Olive Harper
in the New York World, and we do 80
because We somehow think that those
who make up those pretty satin and
silk arrangements must find easier
work. better pay and less of that mo-
notonous drudgery that seems INSOFAR
able from work on white goods. But
probably there is not q worse paid
branch of female labor existing than
making neckties of all descriptions.
The making of neckties is a trade, and
one requiring rapidity, exactness and
extreme neatness and not little taste.
1t takes a long time to become expert,
and few ever do attain the degree
that commands living remuneration.
The trade is learned in some instances
through the following routine: A per.
son-and there are very many who do
| this-will advertise to teach necktie
making, also Teck and puff scarfs, at a
reasonable price; and many of them
also promise to secure profitable en-
ploy for those who learn. The fee is
$5 in advance. The learner is con-
Quoted to work-room, when the S.
have been duly paid, and given a seat
amongst other learners. For the first
| week the novice must rip uo old
scarfs and ties that look as if
they had been tished from ash-barrels.
The Innings of these are saved and
used afterward. The second week is
given to Substituting tho Innings and
wadding. The third to sewing up the
| ordinary cravats and then as many
more as the girl is willing to give the
woman who manages the place are
occupied in making up ties of all kinds.
which she takes in from dealers, but
the learner gets nothing for her labor.
In some instances the husbands of
these women sell the neckties.
1t really docs not require, even the
dullest, over one week to learn all that
can be taught. The rest comes by
practice. When the mistress sees that
her pupil is becoming restless she sends
her to one of the houses which give
out their work. 1t must be understood
that the learner has been led to believe
that she can earn $40 and $12 per week
if she is expert.
FURNISHING SAMPLES WITHOUT PAY.
These dealers, who only manufacture
and sell ordinary goods, hire the new
recruits, and the first thing they have
| to do is to set down and make a sam
pie. Sometimes they bring samples of
their work, but the dealers prefer that
the sample be made before their ewes
for two reasons, first, TO satisfy them
selves of the capacity of the person,
and, secondly the sample is never paid
for and in year the amount saved is
quite worth the trouble. If the sample
suits. the girl gives her address and
references, and gets half dozen or q
dozen ties to make, which she can take
home with her. When these are
broug bit back they are examined one
by one, by lynx-eyed person, and if
one only is not just right, she gets no
pay for all until that one is altered and
made exact. If a girl gets ten gross of
one kind to make, every one must be
the exact counterpart of the other with
out shade of difference. or she gets no
pay whatever until all are arranged TO
suit, no matter how much she may
need it.
HOW THE sCARFs ARE PUT TOGETHER.
The work is cut out by Professional
cutters and the applicant for w.rk gets
all the necessary adjuncts for each
style of cravat she is to make, all cut
smooth and exact, but no more, each
dozen done up in separate packages
The ordinary necktics, made of satin
and crossing in front, have first
lcatherette shield in which is fastened
a long needle. A piece Of cotton.
flannel is laid over this and then the
satin or silk. The pieces which lap
over this are eight in number anu con-
s;sls Of first satin outside, cotton
flannel. buckram and satin or silesia
for lining. The band which passes
around the neck is made of satin out
side, SAITH lining, a tin which is
sewn to piece of buckram and
pasted inside the band. This then has
to be- slip-stitched and carefully pressed
and the band has to be- turned, a tire
some job on account of its narrowness.
The Teck and puff scarfs are very
much more difficult to make and more
nicely Of work is demanded of the
workers. In most of the factories there
are girls with machines who do what
machine work is required on each tie
or whatever class they make, and
these are given to such women as
have no machines of their own. Of
course the difference of labor is de-
Quoted from the pay.
FAvOR1TIsM OF FOREWOMEN.
TIE forewomen have the giving out
of the work in most of the factories,
though in some men do it, and in some
again there are hands employ Jed in the
building, generally in those places that
manufacture the very finest work. In
those places the expert hands are kept
constantly, but in all of them the work
is ''piecowork, aud they are only
paid for what they do-not by the day,
In those and secoDd-class, and, in fact
in all the other establishments the fore
woman has all the power and she can
give more work to one, less to an 9TH
er, or none at all, just as suits her, and
there are many of them exact of the
girls u small percentage on all the
work they give on condition that they
are to be kept constantly employed,
and so many an eager searcher for
work is turned away in slack times,
and the others get full complement
where there should be fair division.
When girls and women are waiting
for work the have to stand in a line,
and the stronger ones force the weaker
back when the bundles arrive, aud they
frequently leave the mos: needy nc
chance to get a few dozen ties, when,
perhaps, that little amount would have
kept them from starving. In one place
a basement, there is nearly always a