, 1886-05-14
ON THE okLAwAHA RIVER.


The average width of the Oklawaha
river proper does not exceed fifty feet.
n at the Cypress gates" there is only
room enough for the boat to pass be-
tween the two lofty trees which meet
and intcrlace their tangled branches
high overhead. But the valley Of the
Oklawaha is nearly a mile in width,
covered with from one to WE feet of
water and forms one dense and continu-
Gus cypress swamp, grand, gloomy and
peculiar" No outlet is visible for the
passage of the boat until she reaches the
next sharp bend of he stream, from
which a short and narrow reach can be
/ seen closed apparently by another
crooked bend in the opposite direction.
Still the little boat coughs and puffs
along, yin ing and twisting through the
tortuous nncl, colliding heavily
against i.e / cypress and palmettoes
on one side. 5lancing rapidly over to the
other bank to again rebound from the
tree, on that side also, moving on by
successive leaps from side to side.
TAU cypress trees, with huge and mas
sive trunks and graceful, delicate foliage,
line the banks on either side, Slifting their
lofty heads high in the air, and locking
and inteilacing their gnaricd and twisted
branches overhead. Slender-stemmed
palms wave on high their long plume-like
leaves, frinGed with feathery leaflets,
trembling with every breath of air, and
the broad palmetto leaves balance and
sway to and fro with regular md cease
less oscillation.
Grouped closely ~ lund the feet of
these mighty monarchs Of the wood the
more modest bays and myrtles form a
dense and impenetrahle underground,
and the entire forest a. thickly draped
with heavy f~estoons and long, dropping
pendants of the Spanish moss, covered
with climbing vines and air plants in
numerable, uniting all the wild luxuri-
NEE Of tropical foliage with the somber
and funeral gloom of the impenetrable
forest.
Piled high upon both banks are huge
logs Of driftwood and fallen branches,
gnarled and twisted and covered with
the birds and reptiles of these southern
waters. Huge alligators lie stretched out
at full length enjoying their siesta.
Sleeping calmly by their sides are soft
shell turtles of enormous size. Unlike
the smaller, flattened, disk-like, short
necked and round-headed turtles of
northern waters, these soft shells" are
nearly hemispherical in shape, with long.
slender, snake-like necks and pointed
heads. Moccasin snakes of great length
and brilliant color lie coiled in spiral
folds, all sleeping soundly and basking
in the warm summer air.
As the boat heaves in sight the snakes
slowly %uncoil, and, gliding smoothly out
upon the black and turbid water. disap-
pear beneath its surface. The turtles lift
their long and slender necks, the alliga-
tors raise their, huge unwieldly heads
and starely wildly at the approaching
boat.
When the night comes down upon this
gloomy forest and a darkness which
can be felt envelopes you the effect is
still more weird and uncanny. To light
the way through the narrow and crooked
channel the boatmen build n huge fire of
pitch pine in an iron cage above the
texas" or pilot house. The bright red
light brings out the huge trunks of the
cypress trees, the slender stems of palms
and palmettoes, and he vanished green
foliage of the bays ard myrtles in the
foreground, strongly relieved against tho
dark and turbid water and the intensely
black shadows of the distant forest. The
scenic effect is wonderful.
Attracted by the fiery beacon of the
boat huge bats fit around and above this
primitive headlight. Cranes, herons,
water turkeys and limpkins sail around
and around it, making night hideous with
their unearthly shrieks and cries. Tree
toads innumerable add their shrill and
tremulous treble, and the heavy diapason
of the enormous bull frog forms the basso
profundo of this Internal chorus.
Suddenly this chorus is interrupted
and the leafy arches of the forest re-
vertebrate with the sharp, shrill whistle
Of the down-bont. The signal is promptly
answered by the up-boat, and a thrill OF
excitement prevails on board. Owing
to the narrow channel and the more
difficult steerage with the rapidly de
scending current the down-boat has the
right of way. Our negro deck hands
muster promptly on the forecastle. The
boat is steered close to the right bank
and buries herself beneath the %overhang-
ing foliage. The deck hands grasp the
trees and branches and hold her firmly
in position. The sharp, shrill whistles
are given and repeated at brief intervals,
and although the sound rapidly APP
proaches nearer and nearer the down
boat is still invisible.
Suddenly out from the thick darkness
she leaps into sight, sweeping round the
nearest bend of the stream, looming large
and high in the narrow channel, her
primitive headlight streaming aloft in a
pillar of fire, casting its red light over the
passengers grouped on her forward deck
and the negro crew mustered upon her
forecastle, and as she sweeps rapidly
down upon us three sharp blasts of the
whistle-the courteous signal Of salute
are given and repeated. The passengers
waving hats and handkerchicfs aid the
negro deck-hands of the down boat
shouting in chorus the jubilee song;
Swing low de cha'iot. Lo'd," to which
our W crew responded with, ~l'm ewine
down to Dixie."-George w. w. Duflield
in Detroit Free Press.