Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1886-04-10
PLACE OF PLEASURE. "
THE SARATOGA SPRINGS OF IN.
DIAN MONARCRS.
PIumage or Feather-work-Ce Iebra-
ted Mosaic Pictures Painted
with the PIumage of Birds.
MoRELIA, Mexico, March Is, 1886

be made from Morelia, one of the most de-
iightfnl is to Patzcuaro-a picturesque lake
about thirty miles in circumference, with
town of the same name upon its northern
border, containing some 1900 inhabitants.
The distance from Morelia to Patzcuaro is
forty miles, and two lines of diligencias
make the journey three times a week for
the small consideration of two dollars. The
scenery en- route is most romantic, but the
highway-paved with basaltic powders, on
account of tropical rains, which would 9TH
erwise make it impossible during half the
years. one of the worst in Mexico, and
that means beyond the power of the I'M
travelled Imagination to conceive, roads to
which Michigan " corduroy" and Flor
ida swamp are smooth in comparison.
Perhaps no spot in the country better de-
serves the name of primitive Mexico
than the region of Lake Patzcuaro. Hum
boldt, who visited it FIRST in 1903, says it is
the most beautiful place on earth. The
word Patzcuaro. in the Tarasc dialect,
means place of Pleasure" and we are
told that in early days the old city was the
favorite resort of the Indian Kings of Mi
choacan after the conquest becoming the
capital of the province. There is a large
Indian population hereabouts, who still
speak the Tarasc language but in their
looks and customs closely resemble the
pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona.
THE TOWN OF PArzcUARo
Lies about 1000 feet above the sea and a
couple of miles from the lake. Its streets
are narrow, stony and winding, and its one
stored adobe houses very small dingy and
uninviting; but its pIazas and public prom
inades are ample and well shaded, and the
people-very sensibly in this climate
spend most of their lives out of doors. The
view, as we approach by the billy stage
road, is most charming. Below us lies the
old town, where Indian monarchs feasted
in barbaric splendor five hundred years
ago; and beyond, surrounded by densely
timbered mountains, is the lonely lake, its
surface dotted by little islands covered with
white-walled houses, reminding one forci-
bly, OF the famous. Lago Maggiore. In the
outskirts we come to an old church bearing
date 1922, so messy and overgrown, that it
looks like birds nest perched among the
trees This little sanctuary, still used by
the neighboring Indians, who are all now
devoutly Roman Catholic, was erected by
the conqueror upon the exact spot where
his Majesty of Michoacan came out to
meet the Spaniards when they entered this
territory, and here the future allies vowed
eternal friendship ana mutual assistance.
When the diligencia comes rafting into
town all the idle and curious Patzcuarians
come forth 10 see-those who are not al
ready upon the streets, crowding their bal
comics and the roofs of their houses. A
foreigner creates an especial sensation, for
comparatively few have penetrated SO far
from the ordinary lines of travel. When
we set out to take a look at the old
churches, and to stray through the market
portaleS and other points of interest we
are followed by a crowd ofb oys-respectful
it is true but as full of eager interest as if
Barnum's menagerie had been let loose
among them; and in the evening when we
modestly venture out of the gloomy little
inn to
THE MooE-LIGHrED PLAZA,
Where all the town are congregated, we
have an embarrassing sense of being the
cynosure OF all eyes, though everybody
treats us with the greatest Difference We
thought it might be the popularity of our
attire which excited so much attention 1--WE
wore the plainest and most serviceable
travelling suits 10 be bought in New York..
and so left off our bonnets next dav, and
wound the universal rebosa around our
heads and shoulders; but that only made
matters worse. As rule the better classes
of PatZcuarians are of fairer compilations
and have more color in their cheeks than
natives of the City of Mexico. This is owing
partly to the climate being cooler and more
humid, and doubtless partly because at the
capital everybody who is well-to-do rides
while here-carriages being a thing I'M
known-much exercise imparts the glow
of health. PatZcuaro is celebrated in the
history of modern Mexico as being the
burial place of the first Bishop of Mich
oacan, the good Basco de Quiroga, who
lived and died at the Vurapa He was bene-
factor of these Tarascan Indians and did
much to rescue them from the state of utter
degradation into which they fell under the
oppression of the Con9uistadores. He not
only preached morality, but encouraged in
dependent industry among them by assign
ing to each village its particular branch of
commerce. Thus one was soon noted for
its manufacture of saddies another for its
shoes, another for bateos (painted trays), and
so on. Every useful institution, of which
some traces still remain among them, is
due to this excellent prelate, and the In
dams still cherish his memory among the
numerous saints that demand their ven
Grafton. From earliesttimes Patzcuaro has
been celebrated for its mosaic work, made
from the delicate and beautiful feathers of
plea flores cumming birds), which the
Tarascans call huitzitzitins. All the an
Gent writers upon Mexico have been en-
thusiastic in praise of this feather-work,
which was nowhere brought u such per-
fiction as in Patzcuaro. Cortez described
THE FEATHER CLoAKs OF MoNTEzUnA
And his mobiles, and few faded and tat
tered specimens of the same date may still
be seen in the museums. We are told that
il is now more than half q century since
real artist in feathers lived anywhere in
Mexico, and the ancient art is altogether
lost However, many of its imitators re-
81 lie in the vicinity of Patzcuaro, mostly
among the Indians on tie lake islands.
The nuns of Santa Catarina Ga convent of
the city whose inmates wore white cotton
dresses and black Indian rebosas instead of
vails), did much of this intricate work
few years ago. The nuns are now banished
from Mexico. as are all of their order: but
we bought some specimens of their work
from the old church adjoining the nun
merry, which bears date 1880, and is rich in
gliding and quaint Woodworking. Several
persons were employed in each feather
painting, and il was work requiring ex-
traordinary skill, patience and nicely in
the blending of the colors and the arraign-
ment of the plumage. First, the sketch of
the figure was made and, the proportions
being measued, each artist took charge of
one particular part of the figure or its dra-
perry. When each had finished his share,
all the different parts were reunited to form
the perfect picture. The feathers were first
taken up on some soft substance with the
utmost care, and fastened upon piece of
canvas or wooden with some glutinous mat
ter. Then, when different parts were united,
the whole was placed on plate of copper
and gently polished till the surface became
quite equal, when they appeared like the
most beautiful paintings; or, according to
one of the early historians, more exoui-
site than any painting, from the splendor
and liveliness of the colors, the bright
golden-blue and crimson tints of the birds
and the softness of the plumage." The
specimens which we found for sale were all
of saints and angels, defective in sketch and
exaggerated in costume, but beautiful in
coloring and quite fine enough to prove
that the
EXCELLENCE OF THE ANCIENT ARTISTS