Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1886-09-09
OUR NEW YORK LETTER.
ROSALLND MAYS TALK ABOUT
THE FASHIONS. iN
Al summer 10. svrts-Fnti styles
AutuuuM M.t,'riais -GhrdrBs Party
Dfesses-- Millinery Y4.3

IN VI bbulbc hnb lbt1iluk lufNt anu tnb
entire costume is gotten up with this view.
Crepe de chine is also favorite material
and handsomer yet, real Canton crepe
embroidered in silk or silver such as a
pearl gray recently worn at Newport.
Another model costume worn on the
same occasion was of pale blue crepe do
chine mado with wide panel of inch
wide ribbon and equally wide folds Of
crepe einterlacing in basket tpattern. Beaded
tassels gave fiuish The front was wrink-
led apron. The back draperies were fun
and straight, with q hem at the lower
edge. The corsage was rtr ie with vest
to correspond and like basket work
adorned the sleeves, Lace dresses are also
constantly selected for garden parties and
here, of course universal adapt,bilty
gives room for universal beconngness.
In spite of this and other fabrics emf
nently suitable, the onlooker's vision ia
now and then greeted by the sight Of
some stout natron who rcsolutely persists
in wearing her
GRANDDAuGHTER's CLOTHES.
Nothing will satisfy her but gay floral
patterned outfit and tho result of NO fatal
choice IS really as painful thing we'll
| nigh as the eye can contemplate. The
class Of stout, middle-aged ladies', is
large one, and If they would only. lay to
heart the lesson of wearing their OWN
clothes and not those of their juniOrs,
what q step would be taken in the worL}'s
civilization. Gould they bnt study the
effects of light and shade, brightness and
darkness, taking refuge in the latter and
leaving the former to the average Ameri-
can fiedgling who needs exactly what
they could best spare. To her, let thenl
relegate the puffings and houncings,
the flirting and huttering OF ribbons
and all other coquettish additions. Prop
erly dressed, stout woman might be-
come pleasingly dignified object Of con-
temptation, but so dangerous position
does she occupy, that slight deyistion
might be ruinous to the peace of be-
holders though perhaps net to her own
| since the apparent oomplacency with
| which individuals of this class sometimes
| survey themselves, when dressed in
/ nymph like style, is really sorrowful
i Tho same remarks can be made regarding
hats Age shows nowhere more plainly
than about the throat and neck and as a
shelter to the prudent woman come
bonnet or shade hat strings which to the
wise are yeritable refuge. The spectn-
Gle again of some stout woman tottering
on French heels, is one that hap
PLY is not very often witnessed it
is occasionally, nevertheless. The foot
| perhaps may have retained pristine
beauty. With pardonable pride she con
| templates that foot and wishes others to
| do the same. Let her sacrifice that foot,
however, to general welfare; wearing
her dresses long, and remember that the
two little totterers supporting an un-
wieldy weight, transform her into walk
;,,f, al, a1,
some ono might ask. Their position ia
not quarter part 80 risky. Addition is
their trump card of course. Let them
| add freely hut with vast deal more care
than when young. The freshness OF
| youth brings with it 30 great charm
that death is subordinate. IL Is the class
who are entering or already within the
shadows of age, who do we'll to pause and
consider, accepting the situation and
painting the picture in keeping. For all
are pictuEes more or less gracious and let
each do her part regarding the same as an
aesthetic duty. For
TENNIS DRESSES
| tine sailor blouse costume, one of the hap.
piest devices for comfort, ia appropriate
as ever, since the upper part of the body
is absolutely free, the plain skirt without
II
boon. But within the limitations of sim
plicity, there are many pretty variations
in these tennis dresses and they run
the gamut from dark flannel to jaunty
| Inspirations of different colors combined
with dash and abandon, as witness skirt
of striped awning cloth showing red,
green and white; white jersey with red
vest and sailor hat of green. The family
Of white woods is always attractive or
| there are both bright and delicate shades.
The hat is sailor straw or some one of
the soft colored felts with cord or band
of ribbon and bow on one side or perhaps
painted bouquet. Handsomer tennis
resses have ribbon Bashes and there are
elaborate costumes finished with sash
showing characteristic embroidery with
the same on sailor collar and sleeves
Jersey waists with ordinary skirts are of
course worn where special suit is not at
hand.
AUTUMN STYLES.
BY kind permission of Lord .S Taylor,
we have hints of what will be worn In the
fall and winter. Cloths showing squares
in all sizes, from the very large down to
small checks, will be in much favor, but
this does not prevent the continued popu-
lar!fy of stripes. In these mixed cloths
Lilt bIuWu huu NtilbWiHh Htlttl6h lfe tDil-
spicuously noticeable, with not infrequent
mixtures of blue and rod. The eolors,
however, do not stand out of Themselves,
but are shaded into one another by in
distinct blendings. MIXED" is the word
which best expresses the situation Tho
uniting of silk and wool in the same
piece of goods is quite as much an
idea this fall as last spring, when
cotton was largely added TO the two
| first named materials. Various blendings
of silk and wool therefore, will often be
in striking combinations, such as plush or
velvet stripes on wool. Silken moire as
we'll while in pure silk or velvet goods,
there are stripes of plush, moire or frise.
Velvet will continue leading fabric, APP
pehring in IFS own handsome plainneas or
rs n part OF rich material. Gros "a N
will be more worn than satin, and among
thc most stylish importaiions, black EillSa
striped in gold or white, are noticeable.
Almost always, however, stripes diler in
texture, and among varieties come frise.
velvet, mdire or plush. Tinsel is used to
quite nm extent in new silks, chiefly in tho
light evening shades, but somewhat also
in those for the day.
MILLINERY.
Felt bonncts and hats will lead next
| winter for general use, but, as hitherto,
of course, the f. OF varieties handsomely
trimmed, ate hot iuappropriately worn
with rich costume, since there is great
choice in ielts Usually, however, for
dress occasions, nilliners will present
velvet, either the plain, striped or dotted,
this last being very piquant and pretty
novelty. The dots are embroidered in
some effective contrasting solor, such as
yellow or red on brown, green, &C., but
there are more quiet styles where light
shade dots dark one As TO shapes, the
capote with an addition of hight in
front. is most prominent for bonnets,
while M usual for winter, with only few
exceptions, the broad brims give way 90
close styles nf which the turbans will be
Chiefly seen. There are some special
varieties in forms, such as brims turning
up higher at the back or in front than
those now seen in straw, but the turbau
is easily recognized. Velvet ribbons are
used again for trimming, but fine grain
and also repped ribbons with corded
edge are seen in both plain and fanciful
patterns, all styles being once more
looped in front as high trimmings. Birds
are feature as also fancy feathers of
many different varieties, some very fan
ciful and quite unlike nature. A
noticeable novelty in millinery is
the use of plush made TO initiate as
closely as possible, wild beast skins, and
| this is spread plainlv ovAr the erowyn nv