Morning journal and courier., 1886-10-27
Notes On The Fashions.

/
| Newmarkets show few changes, except the
almost universal addition of a cape. A
few hoods are seen, but the plain coach
| mans cape is preferred. Nearly all fine gar
ments are lined throughout with satin OF
| twilled silk, and the general finish is similar
| to that on mems light overcoats. But few
| double breasted long garments are seen in the
| more expensive styles.
Jerseys are high in favor and brought
| out in very desirable styles. Some new pat
terms are covered with iridescent beads and
| braiding. Allfne jerseys are now cut like dress
waists are whaleboned in all the seams and
have an inside belt. A perfectly fitted plain
corset cover of linen or coutille is worn by
many ladies under the jersey and adds much
| to the style of the garment.
The Souvaroff jacket is new model much
in vogue this autumn. 1t fastens with one
button only at the neck, and is rounded off
over the hips, remaining open all the way
down over a plastron or chemisette. At the
back it forms small basque arranged in
hollow plaits: it is edged all round with fancy
galloon or embroidery. The same trimming
is put on over the sleeve from the shoulder to
the wrist and round the lower edge it is a
plain coat-sleeve.
Belts of ivory leather, which has raised
figures in the color of old ivory on gray
ground. are chosen for use with gray cos
TUNES, and similar style with the pattern
on a brown ground is worn with brown dress
es. White undressed kid belts, delicate and
lovely to look at, are in high favor for use
with house dresses of white serge and similar
goods The better qualities are lined with
satin and some of the newest are fastened
with two buckles and narrow straps
New woolens are in pretty rabesque pat
terms in camaieu shades over darker ground.
The skirts are arranged in series of small
pleats, alternating with large single ones,
except at the back width, which is slightly
draped into a puff. On the left side of this
puff the pleats are caught up with long loops
and ends of ribbon; this shows the under
skirt, which is of plain silk or cashmere, with
several rows of velvet or braid round the
bottom and narrow 1uting showing just
and crossed over, coming down into point
little below the waist line;the back is notch
cd out and forms small basque. Coat sleeves
with plated cuffs.
Feather trimming, such as is used for
wraps, is used in facings and bindings for
bonnets and hats. Dressy bonnets and
open-meshed wire netting with beads will be
worn until very late in the season and with
lace dresses and lace trimmed toilets through
out the winter; lined, of course, with sulta-
BILE material as the season advances. Feather
and bead coronets are popular and tiny
1eatner pOupoIlS u BIoouatoo SIG aio soo
around the brims of bonnets. Bead trim
mings of all sorts, bead birds, aigrettes,
leaves, wheat ears, balls of wire-strung
jet, and every imaginable disposition of
beads will be used in winter millinery. Brist-
ling loops of jet beads strung on wire are
thickly set over the entire fronts of some
dressy bonnets.
Hats are of two distinct shapes, the large
chapeau of velvet with turned-up brim,
trimmed in all colors with long ostrich
feathers twisted together and falling down
at the back, comes first, then there is the
pretty, plainly trimmed felt hat with plain
fiat edge. Such hats are often turned up
suddenly just in the middle in front, and
others are put towards the back of the head,
or a little on one side. Felt shapes, like
toques, are set firm and low over the forehead
Three forms dispute the palm and these are:
The Spanish, composed of a straight brim
and SO uare crown, and the Helmet this re-
sembIing what the French term Gle casque de
voyags' at the back and looking like high
couture in front.