Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-12-04
Ap0THEOSIS OF REFORM
SENSE TRIUMPH IN
NONE VS. DRESS.

Sttk stockings anu manu- haoo nus
ste and Originality of American
1yo,nen-The Picturesque and Artistic
A., nress-The Opera aud Opera Toll
1.-THE Phnosphy of the Corssge--
"a Fans, Feathers and Fanctes-
pououets and Ball Dresses.
xvw YORK, Dec. 4.-The question of
...,tical dress is beginning to assume
TORRANCE, 1t is no longer assigned to
"rarks but is treated respectfully by
0ron organs of public opinion as are
ssirlv entitled TO represent the daily press.
within a few weeks the singular specta-
aIo has been seen Of one daily paper in
Vow York city following another i'll CIV
inc columns and illustrations to ''re-
sor,,u dress, the foundation garment of
which has appeared in every 'retorm"
s.oes husiness circular for the past five
years at least.
the growth Of interest in the "combi-
NATION" under garment, which Is what
.bo cut referred to representa-, has not
heen as great among those who are to
uaar it as advocates OF dress reform de-
sire hut one of the reasons is the price,
rhich ia higher than the majority of
women can afford to pay. Another Is
barshness in the medium of grades OF
wool and it's ugly shape, which does not
odant itself to the varying forms Of dress,
or the difference in weather or climate,
ond could not be worn with even the mild
form of "fuIrr dress, which a new cham
mon Mrs Miller, of Washington, Illus
rates and advocates.
Mrs. Miller's idea is the well-known
ono Of LAYERS Of clothing, with waist in
stead of corsets, and drawers to match
the gown instead of underskirts. This
last is an adaptation of Lady HarbertOn's
notion of the divided" skirt. only Mrs.
Miller shapes her drawers or trousers and
allows the skirt of her gown to maintain
lis usual walking length. The outfit as
giyen-com bination garments, shaped
waist, linen Overgarments, drawers OF
the same material as the dress-ls
an invaluable one tor some purposes
and under certain circumstances. 1t
:. excellent as a school dress for girls.
especlallv between the ages of 10 and Is.
Il would be a good dress for long jour
news. by sea or in the mountains, and adj
mirabe for a service dress in city like
San Francisco. for example, subject to
trade winds and needing always clothing
warmth and that can be made light i'll
weight.
There is the objection always, as L have
stated recently, to the merino under
clothing, that it is dear and heavy and
harsh and unadaptable. The wooden
underwear manufactured at the far West
is superior in some respects to ours at the
East, and the English is superior to ours
in soltness and fleXibilIty, in the prepara-
ton OF the wool, in the form OF the gar
ments and they are also lower in price.
We grow lots Of wool, it is capable of the
finest treatment. it will always be one
and the most important one-of the three
great factors in clothing, the other two
being silk and cotton; and it would pay
our Eastern manufacturers to bring ma
terlals and garments TO as near perfection
as possible, and grade prices according
to cost of production, not strain them to
the limit they can obtain from pur-
chasing minority.
THE "REFORM" WAIST
is not by any means an ideal advance
upon the corset. 1t enlarges the thin per-
son, but it does not shape or keep in place
efectually a superabundance of flesh, or
without bursting Off buttons. Nor does
it adapt itself to the exegencies of pro.
tessiOnal lite. A well-knOwn actress,
set nor waist under her dresses. Her only
"stay' is an invention of her own. 1t is
a belt, which deepens front and back and
is slOped in under the arms. Flat loops
are attached to its lower edge-at the
sides and centres-so that it may be
adjusted. An actress cannot ''fall,"
throw herself about, raise her arms or
gesticulate, as she is often obliged to do
upon the stage, in corset, and 1t Is
great question with them how to find
garments adapted to their needs without
furnishing special designs and paving the
double cost of special orders. Business
necessities are doing for women what
preaching could never dO-obliging them
10 subordinate fashion to the imperative
requirements of daily working lives.
As for the healthlulness of it, the facts
can be arrayed on both sides of the dress
question. An old lady died at 80 the
other day who had worn corsets and thin
shoes (she mad an unusually small foot)
all her life; and young girl at 20, who
was an ardent disciple OF the dress re-
lorm Idea. These cases do not prove any
llng; individual examples never do; they
only show that there are other causes at
WORK beside dress, Strengthening or sap
ping the foundation of life. Cheeriulness,a
disposition To look upon the bright side of
.nlngs and see virtues-even in corsets-
instead OF faults, will promote health and
IOhg lie as much as dress reform. Still,
we are to be thankful and helpful, il
possible, upon all the lines upon which
"urahce is made, only examining the de-
mlls closely and with reference to others
as well as ourselves, that we may prop
ely estimate values, and be able TO judge
noW lar radical changes are practicable,
aAu important to vital interests.
WINTER HOSIERY.
detail of dress that requires more at
Nnuon than is given to 1t and that really
presents problems difficult OF solution, is
,uat OF winter hosiery. In summer, and
~. wi MID climates, there are Infinite varie-
ues Oh cotton and Isle thread. but when
swimy and cold weather comes, the ieet,
n"ulch should be kept warm and protected
moh all approach OF damp, are still in
Ca'ea IN, perhaps, worn or thin cotton
0'ockihgs, aud the only attempt made to
m mS,u OIL the ills that soles and ankles
nay convey to more vital parts of the
Suyi Is 10 invest SOC. in a pair OF corn
"Wyeulng lhdiarubber SHOES.
som ny DO not women buy wooden hose?
wv vme DO, but many do not, because they
S coarse, harsh and dear. The same
ro'eotlons are made to them that are made
soo wooden underolothing. To obtain
nv cashmere" hosiery one must pay
Srn % u 20 TO " % per pair, the different
s,sues oeing offered for 81 %, the lowest;
nn alce stockings 81 30, ST. 80, and SO on
NJ p W the finest ribbed wooden hosiery
wo oue, and sold Tor So % per pair. The
~Volen hose sold at 81 per pair are un.