Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-12-11

CHARMING SWISS crrY,-rTs SURROUNDINGS AssocI
| ATOMS, AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS VISITORS

Letter from Geneva.
A CHARMING SWISS CITY,-rTs SURROUNDINGS, Assocr-
ATOMS, AND NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. VISITORS
S,secial Correspondence Of THE EVENING STAR
GENEVA, November Is 1856
This beautiful little city Is filled with the rcor,s
OF noble natures, OF high aspirations. crushed
hopes and wounded hearts, who came here TO find
inspiration. or rest, or forgetfuness, beside the
blue waters or this most lovely lake
Not long ago we went, amid sunshine and shadow
up the narrow cobble-stoned streets and between
quaint, dingy old houses, 10 the Cathedral. where
Calvin preached after his change OF faith. ana as
rested awhile In the narrow time-wurn chair
where he so often sat In by gone years Thought
now thin he must have grown through much
hunted among the many courts and alleys for the
house where he lived his frugal, Woodworking
from the little street which bears his name n 4
very plain, unpretending structure and is occu-
pied now by kintergarden school and a class for
lencing: q most unsavory neighborheod, from
which We hurried as rapidly as possible.
Just opposite, on the further side OF the lake
,rom iio Where a writing Is square white house
ing hues OF their autumnal foliage II is the house
where Byron sought 10 stfe his sorrow by relating
Chillon," which has immortalized the old ruin
where the luckleSS Downward wore out his ife in
such dismal solitude. The castle is one OF the
lavor1te resorts Tor tourists in bright. warm
weather, and Is very interesting. The banuuettng
han and chapel still remain intact, and below In
the dreary dungeon they point to one among the
stone pillars which support the heavy ancbeS ROOT
where the remnant OF a chain in a rusty staple
shows the exact spot where the poor captive Ian.
gulsned. The pillar is worn smooth by the rest
less chaling OF his weary back and hollow groove
on the stones beneath bears the impress or his
les. a., ~ IT. Is saddening TO look at It, and as We
raised our eyes 10 the narrow window SO heavily
barred, we almost fancied that we could hear the
birds song that for time cheered him with its
little back in the country. short drive ,ro,n
mere, IS the village OF Farney sometimes called
Noi.alss the home for twenty years OF that gifted
wr1ter out most mistaken theologtan who rroba.
bly, lived long enough to regret the evil his pen
mac wrought, as he died, as they tell us repcnrant
ana fecantlng. Then al Lausanne, in the garden
OF the hotel called by his name they show Won the
bench upon which Gibbon sat while pioneering
o owe the last chapters OF his famous Rise and
ran OF the Roman Empire;" and at Coppe,, not
very Tar away, was the home OF another OF esrth's
GIFTED ones the witty and charming CONVERSE
.iohsns', Madame de Stael. Here I'm the city, at
the loot III the busiest street. is the little ISLAND
where Rousseau mediiated for long months over
the great works which have made his memory Ia.
NOUS. Long years after his death the Geneyese
showed their awakened appreciation or his genius
by erecting handsome monument on this his ia
sorl.e resort, depicting him sitting in severe and
most cGaified meditation.
But Geneva Is not alone honored with the heroes
OF tne dead past. The pr1nceiy cxiles or the pres
ent nha resi- and refuge on tn. shores OF Lake Le-
man. DurlnS The summer we saw the great bulk
and tall stature OF the Compile de Paris always ac-
cnmpanied by his grenadieT-iike vie, walking the
him quite court OF his devoted adherents al the
Nor, Nor, sheltered hotels Of Montreux. The Duke de
France might a rea isn be soms weeks here and
these princes, did she know how much more easily
,ley can plot and pan In free, republican switzer-
land than when they were still under the watch ful
surveillance OF jealous, argus-eyed Paris
We were also favored with the august presence
on the Duchess OF Edinburg, the daughter OF the
CLarof Russia, who married queen victoria's second
son, and for time threatened the peace OF the
royal family OF England by insisting that She was
She spent two weeks In our hotel without many OF
the guests being aware OF her plesence-a stout
little body with a broad mouth, wide forehead and
no nose speaking or walked about the streets
very like an ordinary woman, instead of assuming
any OF the royalty she 50 Insists upon In the Eng.
| ltSh court circles
More willing 10 let people know of his royal rank
Was the son OF Ismael Pasha, ex Khedive OF
Egypt, who caIne with his suite In great state,
VINO mas oeen sllmmering here under the charge
OF her Engiish governess. A pretty graceful
child, with none OF her fathers heavness OF feature
and rolnped with the other children In bssful un.
consciousness OF the rank that may one day cause
ner much unhappness, for these Egyptian
policy, without regard 10 their own inclinatious
Ihe Prince occasionally walked into the drawing
ieaslilgiy at the groups or people chatting
sUciably together around the cheerful wood fir,.
but either because none OF were exalted enough
Tor his li1ncely conversation he was over
powered with diffidence before so many women
he retreated to distant corner and amused him.
self with the newspapers his secretary sitting
dfscreetly behind him.
Sir Robert Peel owns a villa here, and his
daughters were present the other evening at a
dance In the hotel. They are tall girls, with
DicOmlng cheeks. the persOnification OF Health
but hacking the personal beauty which SO dis
tinSuished their grand father, Englands great
premier. Sir Robert Is occasionally 10 be en-
c0uatered at church, or seen driving through the
streets, but he prefers London to Geneva, and
rarely remains here any length OF ti,ne
The Baron de kothSGhilds lovely grounds are
open to the visitors by card on Friday
afternoons, and are well worth inspec-
ton. containing as they do so many
choice plants and exquisite Gowers The c0ns..r-
yateles are filled with eNOtcs and many delicious
fruits are raised under glass. We have been dis
appointed In the fruits OF this country, especially
grapes, which cannot compare with ours I'm sweet
Less VI deficacy or nayOr and we no longer wonder
at the sour wines, after Intimate acquaintance
with the grapes from which they are produced.
Geneva is a busy little town, filed with shops
and Salesi'eOple who have double prices for the
Watches, Jewelry and musical boxes OF all sorts
end descriptions are the principal staples OF trade
10 enter one OF these musical enporiums Is some
times trying 10 ones nerves, it is mpossibIe TO
rest upon chair, TO lean on a counter or To pick
up the most triiing article without evOkfng a
strain OF music from the hidden machinery Dogs
and dolls, churches, mills, portfolios, inkstands
clgarhOiders and cande-sticks salute you With a
song OF welcome, while birds OF brilliant plunage
marvelously cou1terfeitiag NATURE MARBLE every
conceivable melody that thrush, canary or mock
ing-bird have essayed. 4. w. A.
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