Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1884-1886, 1886-05-11
MAKING KID GLOVES.
DESCRIPTION OF LEADING PROCESSES
IN THEIR MANUFACTURE.

| Ano 1lfst AnanB Anos - ASOno WIN tne
Raw skin-The Peculiar Method Of Tan
ning-Application Of the Dye-Puttins
ON the Finishine Touches.
Kid gloves are made, to q smaller extent
in England and Germany, but those Of
best quality are usually Manufactured in
France. In all there are 2l9 separate pro
cesses before the raw skin is converted
into the kid glove. The first thing to dc
Is, Of course, to remove the hair from the
raw skins, and for this purpose lime is
used, they being immersed from a fort
night to three weeks in pits containing
water and lime. The skins are constantly
turned and shifted about by workmen
armed with long iron tongs, and when
taken out it Is found that the lime has
loosened the cuticle of the skin, thus
rendering the removal of the hair more
easy matter. From the lime-pits the skins
are taken to the unhairing room, where
they are stretched on a sort of wooden
block, and are scraped with
blunt two-handled knife. This
removes the hair. They are now
taken in hand by the @iesher,"
who cuts of the tail, the head
piece, and such portions of adipose
matter as may still adhere to the skin
The skins now pass ON to the Gscudder,"
who removes any hair that may have hith-
erto escaped the knives Of the previous
operators. They are next left to soak in
clear water, to remove all traces Of the
lime, and from thence they undergo a pro-
cess OF fermentation-that Is to say, they
are placed In mixture of warm water
and bran, which not only removes any
fieshy impurity from the skins, but also
renders them soft and supple Kid skins
are not tanned like ordinary leather, but
are immersed in q large, revolving
drum" which contains a mixture COM
posed Of yolk of eggs, wheaton -four, alum
and salt; and SO enormous is the consump-
ton Of the former ingredients that at one
factory in Chaumont no fewer than 1000
eggs are needed every day The skins are
allowed to remain in this costly paste for
rather more than an hour, the drum being
kept revolving by means of machinery.
They are next taken out, and
removed to the cellars for the
night, and from thence are con-
reyed on the following day to the drying
room, where they are subjected to a
temperature varying from 40 to 100
degrees. Each skin is hung separately on
hooks, and thus they dry very quickly
This process leaves them somewhat hard,
and they are next seasoned" or sam
mied" with cold water, and then stretched
backwards and forwards over an upright
knife, shaped like a half-moon After
being wetted again, they are shaved" by
means OF specially constructed knives,
which remove the under-fesh. The skins
are now coated with a composition Of flour,
oil, and yolk Of egg, which makes them
soft and pliable. They are then conveyed
to the dye-house.
Before being dyed the skins are trodden
under foot for several hours in water |
Having been rinsed, the skins are now
moistened with more yolk of eggs, and are |
allowed to rest day before they are dyed !
by the workmen, who, taking brush |
dipped in ammonia, spread it over the |
skin, and then apply several coatings Of |
the dye For skins that are dyed on both |
sides, OF course, another process is
The workmen place the skins |
In large vat, and while treading them |
down pour in the colOring liquid. Those |
that are intended for black gloves show,
after their first dip in the dye, blush |
tinge, but this is worked Off until the skins |
present a brilliant and perfect black.
The skins, having been dried and dyed, |
are now subjected 70 process known as
grounding" the object Of which is tore
move all roughness, and render them
thinner and more supple. They are next
sorted according to their quality and size,
and are passed on to the cutters, who cut
them into the several detached parts of
gloves. This operation requires great
judgment, for the workman has to allow
Tor the natural stretch Of the skin The
skins having been selected and
mapped out by the sorters and pieced out
BY the cutters, are put over frame look
ng like a deformed glove These
frames are 80 made that they
represent the whole glove laid
,ut unsewn- The gloves, with the thumbs
July fitted and put together, are placed
n a press, after which they are sent
% be punched by means of machinery
The edges Of the gloves are refolded by
and are then ready for sewing.
N France the work Of stitching Is done
:hiefiy by hand, although there are some
'ery ingenious machines invented to per-
orm this operation.
The fastenings are now attached by
means Of rivets, which are hammered on
" girls called riveuses. The glove has
low been sewn, and furnished with but
Ons. 1t only remains to straighten 1t by
'lacing it on glove-stiok. They are then
in dozens, and being enveloped
n paper bands, are packed in card boxes
eady to be despatched from the factory
'asselPs Family Magazine.