Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1886-09-25


Id, but flat, and often keep in place 10y |
braided silk or velvet tabs. |
The blouse or jacket corsagcs are chosen |
to match the skirt ornameutations, and the |
latter opened at tho back seams and edged
with small gilt or bright contrasting buttons.
Large white collars and cuffs vt serge or
cashmere stitched out with dark silk and
with small devices or initials at the corners
the cuffs being left over for this purpose ON
the top of the srm make such costumes both
becoming aud yet practical. A sash is some
times added in front, IL required, to be lit
tie more dreSsy.
More elaborate models when made OF
strong, durable stun, are also in good taste,
and may I've preferred 10y many ladies' who
wish to see their children look ~ nice rs pos
sible, For instance, a dainty dark woOlen
costume for girl oi six wears Is made with a
full skirt, long waiStcOat beautifully eW-
broidered with another color, and opening
back ard front to show a small pleated surah,
plsstron, bOrdered with similar embroidery,
and a casaque OF the same material, short IN
front and long at the sides and back, where
II is finished oil witha full pulled basque.
Dark embroidery and large buttons form
panels on the skirt and fiji out very taste
fully the open space between the short front
and long side pieces caught together at the
| waist with a broad pleaied tao OF the dress
material and velvet.
LADIES AtTUMNNL WEAT>,
The London Queen saws that Judging from
| this seasons display msntles are not to CON
| tinue to be the Voluminous Coyer-siis that
| have been worn heretofore. the Paris mod
| els are short IN the lack, coming but little
| below the waist, aud ending in couple OF
| ends in front They all have sleeves of a
| kind mostly cut in one with the mantle, all
| short, and, alas, not calculated To permit thai
| free play OF the arm, without which every
| garment of the kind is greVOusy faulty,
| Plush, velvet and a new class Of heavy, hand
| some patterned cloths are the materials m0st
| to be worn at present In time there will be
| more turS tn bc seen. but Just now the tur
| trimmings are hardly ever used alone, but
| supplement the nue jet appliques and
| tringe> with which the more expensive man
| ties are trimmed. There are few new and
| distinctive novelties in the trimmings one
| is the muf bordering. cor SIstiug of small
| plush NUTS about the size of tho finger
| through which the satin ribbon i iooped ere
| it is tied in bow. This Is a leading idea
| which has many expressions.
| or course jackets are To- be worn great
deal during the next few months and also in
the winter. Many OF these faSten on Que
side, have high collars and movable cape,
| which Is a smart rs well as comfortable, ad-
| ditiun. Some blue cloth jackets and ul>ters
are being trimmed with otter introduced on
| them a. epau.etteS, as well as the usual col
| lars and cuffs and some OF the most stylish
| have plastrons OF velvet, covered with a iIUe
| EOlu embroidery, borutrci Win me CpTd,
| collars and cuffs matching,
| Beaded collars and cuffs and beading done
in straight rows are also novel. The new
trimming OF braid, ,conneated 10y hgndwork o
fine silk cord and chain-Stitch in the form O
| insertion, about eight inches wide, i laid
| over color, ana makes a natty addition tC
| the shOrthasqued Jackets.
| Feather trimming l. used on plush for
| autumn WRAPS especially tue shOru feathers
striped in two tones. Light and dark brown
1 ftlF finf1il lrly -.
ings of very good silk are the most fashion
| able.
NOVELTIES FOR AUTUMN.
Diagonal stripes in sleeves are stylish.
| The small pelsrine mautles are more in
| vogue than ever.
Velvet striped broche silks come among
fail dry goods Importaliuns
French dresses imported for autumn ditlei
widely from the English gowns so long
| worn.
| Vertical stripes in dress goods of all kinds
| are the features in autumn fabrics.
| Bengaline with velvet, or new striped rOs
| grains combined with plain velvet, make
| handsome visiting tOiettes.
| Some of the new plush -blrdered wOOleT
| stutis are as rich and dTessy, As well as
| costly, as silk velvet brOChe.
| The leading materials for millinery will bt
| plush, velvet and thich-ribbed goods not un
| like what was formerly called velour.
| Flowing sleeves are again revived lac,
| rutiieS appear in such sleeves made OF Lace
| four or five inches deep.
| Lisse, embroidered IN very light anC
| leathery designs, with scaliopcd edges, vii
be much used for iaODts, and ruules II
| sleeves.
| The plain velvet basque to be worn witt
| any suit, Is short all around, aud has flowing
| sleeves made of the eribbOn-striped grOs grain
| Handkerchiefs, very beautifully embrOii
cred and trimmed with lace, style in vogue
many, many years ago, are coming into tash
| ion again.
| Grey, Salammbo blue, duh red, dark
| brown and green, are the prevailing cOors
tor elegant visiting suits there is unusually
| contrasting color, or white il used 10 relieve
| the dark shade
| There is new guipure bouncing, OF eX
| quislte quality and finish, that has raised Of
tects on the thicker portions Of the lace not
unlike small sections OF line crOcheted pas
sementeTie
| Striped fabrics play a conspicuous part in
most dresses, and are made especially etlec,
tive in basques, when arranged to taper in
the back torms, and to slope didgonalIy on
| the sides to point in 'front.'
| Hou shoid Recipes
Soups-Di all the operations of cooking,
none is more important nor usually more
| BegligeUtly executed than the preparation OF
| soups. Setting aside the consideration Ot
| economy, To- begin dinner with light s0up
| il decidedly wholesome, and serves 10 divert
| the danger Of eating too heavily of solid
| meat. 1t j. an error tor any one to imagine
| that when no has eaten heartily OF roast beet
| only, he has necessarily made a wholesome
| dinner. The Tlchest soups are made by boil
| ing several kinds of meat together, as beef
| mutton and veal. Beef stock is the desdera-
| tum Of all soups. 1t is best made from raw
| beef, but a nice stock can he made with the
| bones and rare scraps Lett over from the sun
| days roast. \ fore shin makes the best soup
| stock.
| BOulliOn.-This is served at all the fash
| ionauie IuncheOns in aiIer-iinncr cOliee cups
| and is in reality only strong Lecf tea. tits
made as follows: Take two pounds OF lean
JUICY beef, cut into small pieces to extract a |
| the strength, cover with three quarts OF cold
water put on the back Of the range and let
| simmer not bDl) Tor three hours Pour
| oil carefully and strain 30 as to have il Der.
tectly clear; season to taste with salt and
cayenne pepper.
| Tomato SOup-Two and half pound =
veal or beei, one gallon OF water n Is oI
| fresh tomatoes peeled and ca .'t"o Puarl .
| meat to shreds aud th~his ~ L''p' non the
| quarts Strain thc 80 water down 10 two
| toes. stirring tha.k'c liquor put in the toma-
| dissolve lad IN very hard that they may
an isn .s--hcroughly boil three-quarters OF
l,ist nOur. Season with parseiy or any other
I herb that is prepared, aud pepper and salt.
| Strain again, and stir in two table spOOnfuls Oi
| corn starch dissolved in lttlO water with
| two teaspoOntuls Of sugar. Let this boil
| again so as to allow the corn starch to thick en-
| the soup. This soup may be made without
| beef stock by substituting butter and cream.
| For this boil the tomatoes first and when