Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-01-02

WIISts being the only add1tlOn
Many novel ideas have been introduced into
EN- oroidery during the past year, designed to
furnish variety and aid in the effective treat
ment of different materials. The Irish indus
trial societies. directed by cultivated ladies, are
using old Celtic designs upon their beautiful
linen fabrics, while the French are utilizing
beautiful, creamy etamine cloth, cheap, yet
lending itself to exquisite needlewOrk, which
shows equally as well on one side as the other.
A great deal of applique work, outlined and
nlled In with needlework, in which wide gold
thread and tinsel are used. But these are more
or less meritriciOus and temporary, what is
lasting and will grow more and more fashion.
able as time goes on and art education and
knowledge of needlework (nOw one of the local
arts become more general, are studies from ma.
lure transferred to a soft groundwork, ana
simple forms in dress. Why cannot we live
poetry as we'll as admire 1t?
DRESS AND DRESSING AT THE OPERA.
At the opera one sees beautiful articles of
dress, but not much really beautiful dressing.
1t is surprising that ladies cannot see that bare
necks are not "dress," are not effective unless
beautiful in themselves and set in beautiful
and glittering environment. A handsome
neck, OF which there are not too much or too
little, Is possession; jewels fit to adOrn 1t
do not belong to the majority, and unless there
are these essentials to begin with lOw-necked
dress is out of place at the opera, where the
audience make part of the spectacle, ana
every detail of the individuality OF those who
ensemble.
skirts show but little even in the most prom
tnent or exposed boxes. 1t is the upper part OF
the dress, from the waist, that is important
and demands more consideration than is given
to it, The fault doubtless in part arises from
the occupants of boxes taking too near views
from a sufficient distance, or as part of the
spectacle" as seen from the parquet; else they
would give more attention to details and to
satisfying and harmOniZing effects
Strange to say, it is not the women with the
most beautiful necks who expose them in this
way. Many of these understand how much
q ffrnn iUo Ia tod
exhibited to all corners. One of the best-knOwn
leaders of New York society, @ beautiful woman,
wears always style of dress that makes her
look like picture. 1t consisted at a recent per-
Torrance of "The Queen of Sheba,' OF a train OF
brown and gold velvet brOcade. The front was
Nv
and gold silk embroidery. This formed square
neck, outlined with soft double ruffies of Mech
on the inside of the arms, but swept away to a
greater depth over the elbow, where they were
finished with ruff1es of lace matching that at
the neck. Rocco jewels, set as stars, were
fastened upon brown velvet ciasped closely
around the throat.
These soft wide ruffiets of rich lace. falling
away from, yet covering the throat, are ex-
tremely becoming to women who are past their
first youth and have lost their freshness. They
admit of the wearing of velvet throat band, or
antique pendant, suspended from velvet rib
bons fashion which admirably conceais those
tell-tale lines which, like crOws-feet, give un-
mistakeable warnings of advancing age.
THE REASON FOR ROUND LOw-NECKs
The round low-necked bodice, with its short
plain epaulette-like sleeve, which has been seen
for the past two winters, is about as ugly and
commonplace a mode as stupidity could in
vent, and it owes its continued existence only
to the obstinate adherence to traditions OF
Queen Victoria. If the Princess OF Wales ever
becomes the first lady in England, this hideOus
vestige of near past will receive its congo.
The high bodice, square, pointed, filed in, out
lined, or smOOthiy-shaped over fine bust and
ton and affords SO many more resources, that
IL is surprising American women will lend
themselves to the Perpetration OF so foolish and
limited a mode. The only explanation of 1t Is
that they feel obliged to wear out in America
the clothes they have ordered for high sOciety
purposes in England.
points just now. 1t is not often that arms are
left bare to the shoulders, was the case
within few seasons. If the dress is sleeveless
the armhole is finished with a rim, a ruffie, an
epaulette. festOOned cords, or beads, and the
gloves reach to the upper part of it. Sleeves are
also employed of different lengths and styles
some short, some reaching nearly to the elbow
The newest form for thin materials is gathered
up into Scant fullness, and the sides clasped
sleeve, above the elbow. This is derived from a
classic mode, and is better adapted to soft silks
nuns yelling, gauzes and tulles, than thicker OF
sitter materials.
BALL DRESSES AND DINNER GOWNS.
White tulle or lace, draped over silk, is still
ball dresses or rather for the skirts, for the
bodice is usually distinct and may be MORE
satin or velvet. White MORE bodice and wide
MORE sash, a 'ballet" skirt of tulle forms a
pretty and stylish ball dress, but a more useful
one is of fine nuns yelling, with pointed front,
two-thirds of the way up Of embroidered satin
and pointed piece at the throat. with standing
collar to match. The embroidery executed in
tiny interlaced rings, outlined with seed pearls,
the collar edged with pearl beads.
Very new bodfces for dinners are cut quite
vNr, n
ers, forming draped sides to a plain transpare MT
fichu or pointed vest. The shoulders are often
finished with knots OF ribbon, groups of feathers
or ornamental designs in passament erie, from
which rich crochet cords are festOOned across
the breast. This latter style Is well adapted to
gowns of brown or black velvet. The skirts OF
dinner gowns in rich plain materials and for
ladies, are always trained, but for
younger and unmarried women, who wear
lighter materials, it is quite at their option to
have the skirts, even of their richest dresses,
made long or short. II made for dancing the
skirt ought always to be short.
FestoOned ribbons, ladders of bows, and
groups of feathers for looping and upon the
are seen upon the evening dresses of
young girls; flowers, on the contrary, are little
worn; there has been a reaction against the alb
surd prOfusiOn in vogue two years ago, yet it
must be admitted there is nothing more becom-
ing to young girls than fresh flowers, put that
which is most desired upon white tuiie draper
les, by young girls, is not flowers, the stateli-
ness of ostrich feathers, or the frivoity of rib
bOns, unless these last are used as an adjunct a
leash in which to hold or upon which to set a
row Of dear little white or brown fluffy BIRDS
sad as it is to acknowledge the little impression
made by humane societies and the appeals Of
the Baroness Burdett Coutts Bartlett the fact
remains that a row OF brown or yellow birds
not upon tree, but upon a tulle costume. is the
the latest touch, although the
effect is TO make the wearer look like Christ
mas card.
The very high hat will hardly survive the
season, as a novelty it has already been super
coded by peculiar casque, Or helmet
shaped hat, which has the ad-
vantage of not shutting out SO much of the
from those who are behind. The
grenadier hat could never have obtained even
the limited vogue il has done, but for the de-
sire OF little women to make themselves taller
and TO seize upon any means to create an il
fusion to this effect in the minds of others.
The feature of the millinery is its infinite va
riety. The hats are somewhat indiyiduaiized
but the bOnnets are made to match everything
In the way of costume. Crocous are made Of
or braided, and the brims of astrak ham,
beaver or plush, with fluffy pom-poms, or
birds for trimming; Some new felt hats and
Is like brown velvet and has been "prepared''
by the insertion of little stars and rings Of gold
OF being applied TO it. Velvet and a group of
ostrich tips form the most suitable trimming
Red bison suits, trimmed with white lamb 8
wool, and accompanied by white lamb's wooI
caps and mufis are being made for the season
in Canada and are charming for skating Kinks
or real skating purposes. They are more
effective out OF doors in the snow, however.
than under roof The caps have a flap but,
toned down upon the RIM and sit close 10 the
head. The jacket Is double breasted and has a
high collar of lambs wool, which buttons close
round the throat
THE USE OF WOOL.
There Is no more significant fact in regard to
the dress of women, than the extent TO which
wool now enters into its composition. To speak