Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-04-03

further than the top of the corset panel to match
the front. piece for the side drapery and
corners for basque and cuffs are sometimes
made in two different sets for the same dress,
so as to give lighter effect for the summer than
| would be desirable for the spring months. A
| suit of gray wool made in this way had two sets
| of trimming, both made upon cream flannel;
one set was striped in alternate lines of red silk
| and Japanese gold braid, the other embroidered
| in chain stitch in sea-blue silk.
| THE BEADED EDGES
have disappeared from frst-class taior-made
| gowns and jackets; but are universal on popu-
lar spiing styles-jackets, basques, vests, bon
! nets, hats, panels, Misunderstanding upon
which beads can be put. Dark straw hats are
seen in the street with beaded brims, or rims,
! in glass; which reflect all the colors of the rain
bow. In many cases the beaded addition
coarse and showy-has no relation whatever to
the article upon which il is expended, or to the
costume of which the article itself forms a part;
and is nothing, therefore, but a bit of barbaric
I glitter. But OF beaded embroidery and beaded
/ garments there is almost INFINITE variety,
much of which is very rich and expensive. Cos
| TUNES are seen upon the street, the wide pam
| elled sides and mantels of which are masses of
| beads and beaded work; and if the wearer
| chooses, her bonnet, gloves and hosiery can be
| bronze dress exhibited lately had panels and
mantle embroidered with metallic silk cord and
beads, III various shades OF gold bronze and gar
| net, lnter1n1ngled with bronze shells and pend
/ ants; and edged with metallic fringe mixed
| With shaded chenille tipped with bronze beads.
/ Stories OF Arabian spiendor pale before the
effect of half a dozen SUCH costumes. rejecting
ana multiplying with every movement, all the
colors OF earth, air and sky. What it would be
II all, or any number OF women could adopt
them; and II they should add to the beaded
dress and bonnet, the hose and the gloves. the
/ beaded satin boots and the beaded parasol,
can hardly be imagined. The usual procession
/ OF women upon thoroughiare would be more
| terrible than IAN army with banners" The
Jetted, transparent tissues were novelty last
| season; they are now extended to colored
beaded transparancies. By this is not meant
beading upon lace, but fine beaded netting and
| leaves ya
/ forms, which show nothing but the bead work
ana the lining beneath iii there is any. There
parasols composed wholly ofthese beaded trans
parencleS, which are more novel in appearance
snowy than might be imagined, because the
| coiors are dark or well blended. A small capote
bonnet OF this description, corresponding to a
moderate quantity OF trimming upon the dress,
would not be out of place or inelegant-quite
otherwise. One can imagine nothing more
charming than a white ST k and embroidered
crepe dress, with pearl trimming; a small man.
tie, Elgh on the shoulder and pofnted-of crepe
1studded with pearls and bordered with falls of
deep Mechl1n lace;transparent pearl bonnet and
parasol matching the mantle. This costume
made shorts that of u bride to be- early IN the
coming month OF June; and fairer the sun will
never shine upon.
THE "DEPRESsED'' EMBROIDERIEs
do not refer to any condition of the market; but
10 the newest idea in decorative work for COS
tunes; especially costumes made of wool; and
complet' for walking or travelling. Last year,
embroidery applique was the novelty, and con-
sidered very effective. 1t consisted of designs cut
out in velvet or plush and EN- brodered on in out
me, IN beaded or embroidery stitch; and often
Velned IN stitches and colors that made q very
effective, though not expensive display of orna-
mentatlon. The new method is quite different
from this Upon. or over, the foundation ma.
terlal-which may be gray cloth-another ma
terial, say green cloth, is stitched From the
upper, or outside cloth, (that is the green), the
design is cut away, leaving the gray exposed
Inls gray part is embroidered in beads and me-
RClrd md
hasten down the edge of the green cloth and
conceal it, OXydiZed silver and gray chenille
m6roider well upon gray in conjunction with
green; arranged as vest or pointed collar and
panel lor skirt; and panel for the center of the
upright crown of the bonnet. From incidental
Ieuafhs II VIII be understood that
THE NEW SPRING BONNET
is many-sided and, fguratively, very elastic
production. Literally, if you have the money
to pay, you can take your choice of what there
Is. The difficulty seems to be a heterogeneous
eommingling of qualities. There is roughness,
without simplicity; quantity, without adequate
result; much high color and savage glitter.
Wnen the season demands low, tender tones
and sense of refreshment and awakening life
Dead birds, impaled insects, beaded butterflies
anu netailic Iross are all out of place with the
miracle OF grass and flowers springinp up nv
the wayside. Keep these artificial adjuncts.
things, for the artificial light of the ball room
II one must have them; but do not parade them
IN the sunlight OF newly created world. STILL
there are always pOssibilities-remote some,
times and to be diligently looked for-but gen.
orally 10 be found even in bonnets, by the pa
tient seeker. Among them this season are
pretty cottage bonnets of matched straw with
upright, pulled trimming of soft tissues i'm
tinted n sk or crepe fastened with dainty
showing bunch of field daisies or
buttercups and clover as a finish.
with black velvet, and trimmed with upright
pulls OF soft ivory silk and a mixed bunch of
white roses-half opened-and lilies OF the val
ley, Embroidered crepe is much used i'm the
making OF dressy little bonnets; not as crowns
alone, but TOR the entire bonnet; the edge fin
ished with rows of small rosary beads. with a
triple design formed of small loops of narrow
gold braid; or with a scant pulling of gold net
sLIlapped with loops OF metallic cord. The
bined with small, upright, fiuted or shell
shaped crown, the trimming forming ladder
OF large loops, to which flowers mounted as an
aigrette, adds both height and depth' the ar.
rangement throwing them back towards the
crown as We'll as above the brim. The transpa-
rent Jetted bonnets are the great feature in
black designs, not necessarily for mourning
but for wear with all black, summer toilets
The patterns in jetted lace are much finer Than
any seen heretofore, and instead of solid Ieawes
and patterns which give the effect of passemen-
terle, they reproduce such fine designs as are
TEN YEARS FICHU.
''What are you going to have for your sum-
mer dress?" This question was asked of a lady
who, though fashionable woman, has a repu-
tation for being generally well dressed. "Oh!
the same old thing she replied. ssWhat is the
same old thing?" was the rejoipder "Vyeu
when one must dress within certain limits
there is not much choice. 1 have worn black
lace gchd Tor ten years-that is, not one fichu
put several, one succeeding another-and as
have made up my mind could not do better /
have just bought a new one" But is that M
you wear? 1t seems to be rather a Georgian
costume" "Well, no." she said, "not quite
suppose you would add string of beads: but I
do not go in for beads and that sort OF thing
My principal summer dress for ten wears has
been black silk OF soft and light but Durable
quality, a black lace bonnet and black lace
ncnu. Last year had a branch of white lilac
on my bonnet; this year shall have coWsIips or
mustard, have not made up my mind which
but feel In an expansive mood this wear and
must nave something sunshiny and yellow"
mere are any quantity OF women like this good
Iady, VINO want one nice dress for the summer
that VIII do tor church and calling and rack
the poor brains year after year to TO try to find
something different, so that people across the
aisle Will Know that the dress is new But the
had really better fall back on the fichu which
can be bought very reasonably now; a s.fTand-
run" hchu OF Spanish (Buranol lace costing
little more than the machine-made a few wears
ago.
TEA GOWNS
are among the necessities of the wardrobe of a
woman of society now; and the two worn by
Miss Louisa Thorndyke and Miss Bancroft in
The Jilt' are widely commented on Miss
Ihorndy kes Is very bluery, greenery Japan
esey affair; displaying long, vatican folds of
nowered, biue-green, Japanese crepe mingled