Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-07-03
DRF1SMAKNG AS AN ART.
CANVAS DRESSES NOTPOPULAR
IN AMERICA.

p.ctures AIlu SLsfY Dpohs'
WV YORK, july at is not easy to
.,ransst in fabric or design, that which
,,ill he likely to become a popular rage"
IN rbis country. Every season there are
styIas and designs that stake" and others
,ba+ die a natural death. The canvas
r,otarials were in great force abroad last
roar and they cover the counters OF the
great dry goods houses in New York at
+ne nresent moment but they are not very
ooreraIIy bought or sold. They form part
et the wardrobe Of the dressy young or
married lady who can afford a variety OF
bandsome costumes, but they are looked
a. admired and left by the thrifty marion
VINO has to provide for herself and
daughters.
ovnansiye, They must be made over silk,
and the trimming part-which consists OF
striDes. if velvet or plush, in rich, con-
trastfng colOrs-is usually supplemented
Tva vest or reveIs of silk velvet in the
Seenest shade OF the stripe. This and the
six lining brings the cost OF materials
alone up to a high figure, and when to
this the usual $1j to $40 for making is
added. the outlay is more than is re-
CURED for a silk, and it is not a SILK dress
/ auar all. This is an unanswerabie posi-
4 tion with many women. II they are to
have nice dress and pay good price, it
must be silk and must show that 1T is
/ silk
Abroad, canvas dress such as have
mentioned would be considered sutl-
GENTLY elegant for 'dlnner" or for
s.bestV by the wives OF w3ll-tO-do mer-
chants and professional men, and more
distinguished than plain silk, while the
cost to them would be reduced to prOba-
bly half by the lessened cost OF materials
and labor.
II is ALWAYS problem with us to find
suitable lining for wooden fabrics woven
with an open mesh. The value of them
does not justify the cost which we put
upon silk. In Europe, silky Innings, light
4 in texture, yet twiled and durable, have
been brought to perfection, while they add
n little to the cost of the dress. But with
a us. as vet, good silk lining costs more
n than a silk-faced satin" or "Velvet"
II outside, because the first is all silk; the
II second and third twO-thirds cotton. The
n final difficulty with the canvas materials
\ is the making. TIE combination stripes
A require artistic manipulation and are t1e
4 despair of cOmmOnpace worker. IN
4 fact, dressmaking has already become an
I art which demands genius and offers It's
II rewards 10 the pOssessors.
II THE SUMMER SILK.
The character OF the summer silk of to-
daV mas quite changed from that of few
years ago. Then the single materials
4 were still in use. Dresses were not over
laid or made double "a now, nor so gen.
orally combined to form the trimming.
4 The summer silk" in small check ur
hair stripe, was Il standard fabric, very
Il light 10 weight, very much rutlled as was
the fashion in those days) and the rutllss
ltten bound with a color to give bright
ess aud character. Summer silks OF this
nd have disappeared or are displayed at
~ much reduced prices. Surahs have
len their place, fOulards are revived
soft China silks, the latter for the
VIZ of children and young girls, and
ais as a foundation for the black or
cree lace dresses which have quite taken
'ne ace OF grenadines.
IHashiOn OF OVERLAPPING and mbining
las simulated inventive genius in the
Aahucture of light silk, wooden and
even eton fabrics; and an infinite num-
per oIlOyely, transparent tissues are
SHOWN )r covering and combining or
maAihg alone, which are inexpensive
except ft the cost of making. For trim
miLS an combining with nuns yelling
aaOothef hin woods there is a new, SOFT,
lrsted" tlk, with duh corrugated sur
iae' Whlct has, however, "A rich effect.
IL uIsplagd in cream, mauve, amber,
Pa' salmon llnk and yellow, and is used
Hh crepe de shine for full vest and dra-
PEGS. Combinations of this kind
al very lretty Tor young girls,
al II they can make them up
lnseVes the cost is slight But mar
III ladies' lind them of little service and
pier for sumner sdress occasions two
Ueltes' one Of black lace and one of
cam lace over twilled foulard or China
II made so thai they can be adapted to
oefent purposes. Two dresses OF this
Au' cleVerly constructed, will not cost
AIe' il much, as one Old-lashcned gren-
ane OIL good quality, made over SILK, and
thmed as formerly with lace or fringe
ooolh' Inc secret is this-in the max
II OF the modern lace dress only sspiece"
ne Is used, except upon the sleeves;
90 even here, trimming lace
not necessary. Piece lace, ilouucing
az thin, lace-like tissues are now pro-
Hceu at very low rates--trom 25c. for
.SuIas muslin to loo. FOR imitation Chan.
NY or spanish lace. Seven yards will
Ifape' dress; ten of foulaTd or thin
"Iau' al 6Jc. to 1Oc. per yard, will make
NE underdress, and less will be required
YaId and half of better quality or Of
t%tih Is employed for n narrow, knife
Peauhg around the bottom. Thus, SI5
WI purchase the materials Tor dress
Wnicn, when tastefully made, looks as if it
SosI 20 10 500, and often does in the
H@Aus oil an expensive dressmaker.
ARTISTIC DREssMAKING.
Inc most promising field there is at
present Tor girls who possess any artistic
,sculiy' any gift for the needle, is Dress
mtaAIhg: AS an occupation it has quite
hanged It's aspects and methods within
sne last lew years, and addresses itseIftoa
..w order OF Intelligence. Formerly the
st.uuIG;uity was simply to keep the pattern
aa@'snt IN cutting, and see that every
KY was laid the fright" or upright way
ine ngure. There was always a right
cav Sau wrong side; always an ''up" and a
NV 10 the stun; always creases to be
usIueIed, II there was any doubt as TO
rda.IIaI' Given the perpendicular, the
80 80. was plain sailing, only bound by the
stIIet ana inevitable limits of materials
oISl Aad only one side that was present.
% Any. breadtns were "torn or in those
""S ana one pattern Of sleeve was
III '"NIoIent Tor whole community.
Wv, me case is infinitely more commit
o"ttu' II is both easier and more diff.
,o't, Out OF 200 costumes on the street,
s IVY VIII be made alike; aud not only
I' ~ no Two Of the different parts will
r,o ".'Ne' The restrictions have been re-
H., 'L from the manufactured materials.
-, u az are now alike on both sides:
$50 ~ All even when they are figured,
mi w. al ansed IN minute curves and lines