Daily Yellowstone journal., 1886-07-15
NAxlMs o. A cHlnss= aousMavo


'Innlou Times
Everything on the table ahnull se
scru Gus y clean, and the yarious dishes
should he sent n in their proper
order Tor instance sallrl meats
should IRE ede those nf milder
flavor: thick foods should precede
thin ones and foods without gravy should
precede those with gravy. Five consecu
tive dishes should not be all salt. this
would Ia, the stomach too severely
Three Of the five should contain either
mustard or pepper to recover the palate,
just as i'll and sweet things should be
used 10 preve 4 the ralate heing dulled
by too much wine This resembles some
what lriiaI avarin's dictum ~ln eat.
ing he order should be from the heavy
S the light; in drinking from the light
10 the heavy. When the dinner Is cooked
and served the rest remains with tho
diners and to these Mr. Yuan devotes
several chapters His first maxim is.
"nont eat with your ears" In other
words do not have whatever you have
heard Is dainty
-Remember he SAYS that well
cooked bean curi is much nicer than
badly cooked birds nests and that
sea slugs, II not good, are not
equal 10 common bamboo shoots
The fowl the pig. the nsh. and
the duck these are the heroes of the din
ner table ach has its characteristic
flavor and each forms school Ivy itself.
Sea slugs and birds nests are but their re-
tainers having nothing Of their own but
living rs il were. in other mems houses )"
That is. fish pork. and poultry form the
backbone OF the banquet. the other deli
cacies are merely tn set oil ur improve
these To Illustrate this maxim he re
lates that he was once invited to a Ian
lnet BY certain Official Of his nc uaint
ance. where the rice bowls were very
large and each held about four ounces Of
birds nest but quite tastcess Some
body began to say something in praise Of
the display hut Yuan laughed and said:
Il came here TO eat birds nest not 10 deal
In il wholesale Now YOU might lcal in
this but YOU couldn't eat it. 81. what is
the use Of 1t ALL II only tn make a
show. il would be better b. lil your
bowls with pearls which would cost
more money but this is not eating The
philosopher was ayerse 10 display he
loved little dinners
Another maxim Is, @Dont eat with
your eyes. This is warning 10 hosts
against providing too many courses He
frequently points out how the different
parts # any given food are adapted, and
even essential. in order to pro luce the
best result from the whole. I'VE know.
he saws. "ihat the yolk of an egg is richer
than the white hut he is fool who eats
only yolks and throws away the whites :"
With regard to wine he Is very EN-
phatic. "'cnt take wine too freely.
Only sober man knows right from
wrong. and Il is the same with food II
has been wisely observed that language
fails TO desrrihe the delicate nuanccs Of
avors. How. then, should halftipsy
sot know anything about them have
myself often seen two men playing AT
guess fingers and shoveling in their food
the while. as though II were so much
sawdust. sacrificing everything TO the en-
ioyment of wine. No. / say food first
and wine afterward Thus we can en- ;oy
both. He warns cooks against using
hot.water dishes. (which have long been
known in china for they destroy the
flavor Of any very delicate dish