Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1886-07-14
WATERING PLACE STYLES.
W HI MOURNING-STYLISH DREsSEs-
TRAVELLING INSTRUMENTATION
JULY NOTES.

|
WHITE MOURNING-sTYLIsH DREssEs-
TRAVELLING ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
JULY NOTES.
[For the SPECTATOR.
l Who would not half mourn? That is, in
the way it is done at Saratoga. Prettiest
OF all, an entire and expensively simple cos
tune of white English Grape with corsage
bouquet of fragrant violets; fan to match;
bonnet and parasol too if need be. One
might decidedly mourn if not thus allowed
to half mourn and the desire for some small
| tragedy in not too near relations family,
becomes perhaps excusable. Coming next
to Grape, are light clothes with crapy sur
faces and these make extremely pretty
dresses being known under the tribal name
Of crepon. Silk crepon has the look of
seersuckeE but is in checks instead of stripes
and this may be set down as one of the
choicest fabrics of the season. Clairette il
between nuns yelling and mohair with
something of the effect of both: sitter than
one; not so stiff as the other and quite THU,
of course, for Summer. Carmelite and
benedictine cloths are also suggestive Of
nuns yelling, but there is difference in
| them as some are smooth-faced while others
| show the Grape finish that is feature of to-
day. Gypsey Ecloth has silk warp with
armure wearing and snowflake, also with
silk warp, resembles basket cloth. Perhaps
more attention is given to these different
white mourning materials because ladies,
even in deep black, make use of them, but
they form such really pretty costumes eth
er in native purity or united with black on
lavender silk, ribbon or velvet, that it re-
quires no sacrifice to wear them. Pure
white, Of course, since creamy tinge has
too much the flavor of colored and nom
mourning world.
Some Of the most
STYLISH DRESSES
are of wool interviewer with tinsel and
curiously draped to show the selvage that
does duty as trimming. In silk costumes
there is nothing moro attractive than the
Bengaline silks striped in two tones, unless
it be the dresses of glace silk where the
loveliest of floral patterns are displayed on
q groundwork of such color as to show
them off-pale pink, ecru, sea green or pale
blue. Plain silk is combined usually and
there are frequent additions Of beads or
lace. Greatly delighted in, likewise, are the
so called jswelled dresses which made an
appearance in Spring, but now find room
for full exhibition. Fine black net is be-
spangled with artistic embroideriss of beads
while glowing at intervals are colored stones
Stimulating rubies, emeralds, sapphires etc.
The favorite combination is velvet and chan
tily lace. Moire silk is in remarkable as
cendancy and constantly seen as a large
component part or in touches on handsome
silk or fine cashmere dresses. Cashmere
indeed comes quite to the front and CO.'S
tunes, where it is united with gay plaided
silks, are frequently noticeable during the
Summers never.ending dress parade. New
st.iped brocade silks have a good position
and are variously united with Bengaline
silk, moire, velvet or satin. Frllls of black
crepe lisse are favorite trimming on hand
some dresses of many of kinds; they
are effective and sought after because new.
Surah and canvas dresses are well repre-
sented, the two materials combined in many
ways, as for example, the waist of surah
with canvas sleeves, plaid or striped surah
for waist and underskirt, with bruffant
drapery and sleeves of canvas. Black surah
with touches of white or some subdued COL
or, is a refuge for mature ladies of quiet
taste, but young people seem to like this
material and touch it up with gathered
white or light colored silk vests becoming
to girlish figures or they give piquant addi-
tions of bright silk, colored sashes, bead
ings, ETC., or perhaps sash of silk canvas
with fringed ends.
dOSlEh1s
Three out of four pairs of Saratoga feet
are black. But the idea of uniformity with
the costume, takes strong hold, and hosiery
to match, both in light and dark colors, are
shown to an extent that evinces certainly
more than one school of thought Very
delicate white silks are in beautiful lace pat
terms and, of course, worn with slippers
while in Lisle thread there are some fancy
WaavinOs hut Sa1id onlora and
plain weavings rule; the departures from
this, being only for sake of a change. This
last idea finds its best exemplifcation in the
London stripes where soft blendings of
green and olive brown, blue or gray, are
arranged either in vertical or horizontal
stripes or sometimes in broken bars. Rib
bed hosiery is varied by thread of color at
intervals aud there are some more paonounc-
ed stripes, such as yellow or cardinal and
black, to say nothing of omnipreseut ecru.
In shoes, from the beaded and embroidered
twelve dollar slippers are seen gradations
down to something quite nice for a reason
able figure. say two dollars and half
Newport ties having the strings kept inposi-
ton by jet fastenettes are better for stroll
to the Springs, but some people prefer the
side buttoned boot. AS to heels, it is 'fgo-
as-you- please" Ifyou are sensible you will
wear them sensibly; if not, not, and there is
full opportunity for Stiffness. A broad way
and a travelled one. As to shoe dressing,
Buttons raven gloss is chiefly used and
with reason since besides being the best it
is so conveniently put up for travelling. The
mention Of
TRAVELLING
reminds one of the front piazza conclavss
who mark the comings and goings of each
do so ha.r ,so1 h,,o., c,,l
are edited by the numbers of pin-head
checked woods they see. Gray or brown are
in great favor contrasting with white or
ecru, but somewhat livelier travelling suits
are in blue or brown or dark red and white.
Quite young people are fond of the plain
basque with plaid, checked or striped skirt
of light wool. Jerseys are much worn for
this style of outfit and lighter goods often
compose the skirt, such as canvas, delaine,
surah or louisine silk, and while the ways of
making are different yet kilt plaits are Of
tenest noticeable. Kilt skirts of to-day,
likewise, are more comfortable than for
mcrly because the plaits are quite wide and
but little turned iu, thus rendering the cos
tune less weighty. In plain wool outfits,
hem at the bottom is sufficient, but as kilt
plaitings begin to be used for more dressy
materials, such as grenadine, cashmere or
| even silks, they are trimmed with several
rows of ribbon and specially for use on such
skirts, comes an open, lace-wQrked braid of
wool.
| JULY NOTES.
Short wraps of plain velvet are more and
more worn and can be added to by inde-
pendent ornaments of jet or colored beads
with finish of beaded lace while cloth wraps,
either plain on figured are also popular
Some elegant long cloaks are made of fine
cashmere with the inevitable color silk lin
ing tied at the waist with ribbon to match
and allowed to hang open on warm days or
on cool ones, fastened by metal buttons. A
glove must be long or it is nothing. Reach
ing at least some way up the arm and in
color, the precedence of tan is like that Of
black in hosiery. Gray is good color,
putty or bronze for kid or silk But mitts
are black or follow dress goods and ribbons.
Full neck dressing meets with little favor