Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1886-08-05

toilet. They are made about as follows: Fo.
morning use the material is dotted. fowered
or striped sateen, with two skirts, one grace
fully draped over the other, and a blouse
waist, drawn in around the body by belt
| with a buckle. A fchu of muslin or tulle is
around the neck. The jacket is of light
| cloth. The coarse white straw hat is
trimmed with white. The walking or excur-
sion suit may be of etamine, embroidered in
ecru, black or white, or of worsted lace over
| light Innings. Srveral colored underdresses
| may be worn with one of these suits, so
| that with a dress in each color of the lace
| or embroidery variety is obtained at slight
| expense. Bright red is very effective under
| ecru embroidery, black lace or white eta
| mine Other colors for Innings are light
blue, lilac and navy and sapphire blue. The
| waist of these dresses are also lined with
silk or satinet, The Innings may be high in
the neck Or open square, in shawl shape or
| "a la VERGE" which shape is rounded. The
| hat Is of glossy straw, with the brin in an
other shade, lined with the same straw 1t
| Ii trimmed with ribbon, flowers or birds
| The evening dress may be of light foulard
| The skirt opens over panels covered with
dropping ornaments or embroidery. The
| basque of the waist is open all around and
turned up like ribbon loops. On the neck is
trimming of fine beads. The hat suitable
for wear with this toilet is capote of flow
| ers A charming innovation for country use
! is the robe flet" This goods is very dura-
bic and is particularly serviceable for seaside
wear. AS its name indicates it consists of
close network of grayish ecru or cream col
| ored twine. This work is sometimes in two
shades and serves for the skirt, which is
bordered around with small tassels to match.
These dresses are transparent. They are
lined with red, blue, pink or lilac. Over the
skirt is plain scarf tied on the side or il
the back. The waist is also Of plain goods
The plastron and sleeves are of network
Pelesines of dark cloth lined with bright
colored silks, having hoods and large rib
bon bows tied in the back, are worn in
the country.
There shoes used in France at the
seaside of Suede kid in the shade of gloves
A graceful suit for morning wear at
fashionable summer resorts is of fine cream
colored alpaca arranged in large loose
plaits. The skirt and unique are both
made in this way. The waist consists Of
small blouse of scarlet satin merveilleux.
It is closely gathered around an inserted
piece of the goods or around the collar
only. Down the center, back and front the
gathers are hattened to form wide plait
On the plaits are buttons to close the
blouse The round belt is of satin merveil-
leux. The skirt worn with this blouse may
also be of sulphur white flannel. The fash
ions this season would be very pretty, be-
ing in good taste and characterized by very
little eccentricity, but for the excess of.
tournure some ladies incline to. 1t is well
to have the skirt sit out moderately but to
use perfect ediice of steel and horsehar
is quite absurd. Three rows of steel on the
tournure skirt sufficient for all purposes,
but some dressmakers employ six. Toilets
of rich fabrics with long trains sometimes
have underskirts with very light springs
covered with narrow founces, but the most
stylish Partisan dressmakers have the trains
lined with flannel placed between the silk of
the dress and the satin lining. These trains
fall in graceful folds and are separate from
the skirt, which has the three usual springs
underneath. For day wear there are seen
many foulards and surahs. When these ma
terials plain the waist is gathered and
crossed and fastened to the skirt under a
scarf of the same goods, which is taken
rather low around the hips and tied loosely
in front in two long uneven ends. There is
large plat in front of the skirt. The sides
are plated and the back is gathered. Some
draping is in the back, but no tunique
There are worn with these dresses large
coarse straw hats in rather dark shades such
as beige, reddish brown, plum and black,
trimmed with large bows and "tulle esprit"
or with three birds, one with yellow, the sec
ond black and the third with white plumage.
These birds are covered with white tulle. A
bonnet for the same purpose is in capote
shape and of white rice straw in open work
trimmed with white heath and pink rose-
buds. These bonnets may have wide silk
tulle striugs to form large bows fastened by
fancy pins. Very becoming capelines are
of fulled lace with white ruching surround
ing the face, and the front of shirred en-
broidered tulle, muslin or white batiste with
colored dots. On the outside of the 'cape-
line" are bows of tulle or muslin with a
small colored velvet bow to produce the ef-
feet OF a large butterfly. Capelines of Leg
hor off
brims are raised in the back and fall in
front. Around the crown is pink Grape
scarf with pink roses This style of hat is
usually in light shades, although they are
also seen in colored and black straws
trimmed with scarfs in corn color, putty
white or pink Shirred hats are of blue
tulle, Scotch plaid batiste and even foulard
with white dots.
The simplest and most convenient travel |
ing dresses are of fine wooden checked goods |
in white and navy blue, producing a soft |
gray effect. This material is not injured by |
dust or rain. The suits are very plainly !
made. On the underskirt is a gray fold |
coming from the inside. The skirt over
this is bordered with narrow mohair galloon |
or with navy blue velvet. The unique is |
raised over the hips and may may not be !
trimmed with velvet. The back falls in
many large straight plaits. The amazon
waist has small hollow plaits in the back
high OF low shoes worn with these dresses are
of gray checked goods with black tips. The
are striped with blue, white or
bright red. The most suitable round hat for
use with these dresses is of brown straw
with a twisted piece of Scotch plaid foulard
around the crown. The hat may also have
a small white pigeon in front. Foulard suits
are very becoming when trimmed with lace
or English embroidery, and made in a blouse |
waist with a ribbon sash taken around the
body. The sunshades for with these
suits are usually of plain foulard with
band of foulard around the border. For
more dressy suits there parasols of Rus
sian lace over silk in the color or of
ivory crepon dotted with small balls of |
straw. These articles are carried with en-
broidered muslin dresses worn over colored |
silk Innings The most costly handles on
many of the parasols and sunshades this sea-
son. They are of chased gold, bronze with
small rare Japanese figures. silver with mo-
nograms and light colored tortoise shell. |
Many of these handles designed and
carved by skillful artists.
There is more variety in the colors of Ia
dies riding habits for country than for city
use. For country wear they are in lighter
shades of gray, blue and brown. They are /
sti i made very tight fitting with or without |
a place marked in the skirt for the knee. |
There may be added to the riding habit |
very narrow white vest and mans cravat. |
Trousers are preferred TO hlgn rldlng OOOls
High hats are not as much worn low felt |
in gray or in a color to match the suit. A |
small light gauze veil is used to relieve the |
masculine effect these shapes often have. |
Some black habits are seen, particularly for |
city riding. These may have "hussard"
waists richly trimmed with brandebourgs, |
high collars and white cravats. With these |
suits high hats are worn and the usual small /
veil.
Lingerie, which for long time has been
almost wholly out of use, is now again the
style. A great variety of front pieces for
wear under or over waists has been brought |
out this summer in Paris. Plastrons of EN-
broidered nainsook are plated on either side
and closed down the middle by means of
small gilt buttons. A small white batiste
cravat is tied around the linen collar. The
cuffs are also of linen A batiste front
piece is hemstitched over the plaits. The |
small buttons are of mother of pearl. Very
fine linen plast1ons made particularly for |
waists open square in the neck. These also |
have white neckties. Plastrons of white or /
stamped percale have mother of pearl but /
tons and cravats. to match. Parures for l
and travelling wear are of stamped |
percale with cravats to correspond. These |
are lined with mink lipIt hlue red or cream