Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-12-04

neighborhood OF Carlsbad, Austria,
where are seventeen large china manu-
tacturers, there is not a single house in
thls city or country that imports the
famous Carlsbad spun silk hose, or
Carlsbad hand made pins.
The hose will outwear two of the Eng
lish, are made on hand looms, are we'll
shaped, with ribbed tops, and wear resist.
ing neels and toes. They cost 90c. per
pair III Carlsbad, and would, therefore,
PROBABLY be 81 80 per pair here; but they
might at least serve as excellent models
to our manufacturers, who should be able
TO furnish them at 90 per cent. above the
Carlsbad price.
The pins are handmade, with round
neads and finish that makes them de-
lightful for fastening lace and delicate
fabrics. The little AK la Chapelie pins.
with colored heads, stuck in small,
square, boX-like forms of gilt or lowered
paper, can be bought anywhere; nut the
Carlsbad pins are far more useful and in
teresting; they are common Joy, o satis-
faction for every day, a pleasure every
time one is employed; and though not
likely to interfere with home manufac-
tures-which are excellent of their kind
would be valuable for some purposes and
occasions.
PRACTICAL DRESS FOR THE MASSES.
while reformers are talking, practical
uress Tor the larger number continue To
De the best the shops afford, and their
purses will buy, and this will doubtless
continue to be 80; for luxury grows with
the wealth of a nation, it does not lessen;
and America promises to be the richest
country in the world. Our women are al
ready famous everywhere for their imi-
tative taste. They will be noted some day
for tho OriuinQ1itu nf thnir idooc nd
adaptation to Individual characteristics.
drawing room even now presents a
scene of far more varying interest, so far
as toilets are concerned, than one OF
twenty years ago. Instead OF the Co.'S
tunes being alike in conventional form
and outline, they are all different, and
many of them charmingly suggestive.
A "picture" dress of pompadour de-
sign, all stripes and rosebuds, lace and
lOOpings, will spread itself beside
double gown OF Marie Stuart's time, or
straight, short aisted dress of the first
empire.
The German opera at the Metropolitan
Opera House is now the great centre OF
music and fashion. High as are the
prices they have been raised this season,
and single orchestra seat now costs 81
per night. The great auditorium is always
full, and it is fortunately so we'll arranged
that there is not what may be termed
'bad'' seat in the house. The ensemble
of the boxes is very much improved since
they were lined; the uniform, dark red,
furnishing fine background lor elegant
toilets. The individual efforts in the lire
Of upholstery are expended upon the
bijou drawing rooms, or literally, with
drawing rooms, one of which is attached
TO each important box, and is not visible
except by a stray glimpse from the body
Of the house.
The spectacle IS now very different from
that OF even the greatest nights OF the
first two seasons. Then the boxes were
bare OF upholstery and finished in old gold;
color which supplied no background for
delicate tints, the effect OF which, there
fore-as part OF grand coup deit-was
quite lost. Ladies we're obliged to reor-
ganfze their toilets, and substitute dark
plush or velvet bodice for the light cor
sage MADE as part OF the costume. For
tunately, independent bOdices were then
in vogue and many old, light skirts were
revived, freshened, redraped and made to
do duty,rwhiI the elegant, new toilet was
reserved for special occasions.
The dark bodice has now disappeared,
excepting as part of black lace dress,
and then, of course, it is no longer heavy
or of thick fabrics. A few elderly chap
erones wear complete robes of black or
wine colOred velvet, with much lace and
many diamonds; but the large majority
of dresses worn by the occupants of
prominent boxes would be suited to din
ner, ball or party. They are generally OF
black or white lace, or Grape, or crepe de
chine, cut low and round or low square,
with variety in the short sleeves, and,
happily, few with no sleeves at all.
One of the most effective dresses seen
recently was OF black lace, with full
sleeves nearly to the elbow, caught to-
gether upon the front side with small dia-
mond clasps over a putting Of white lace,
A low vest OF white lace finished the
square, low bodice; and the toilet-al
that could be seen of twas completed
by long, white gloves embroidered with
black, q white aigrette, fastened with a
diamond butterfly, and a magnificent tan
of white curled ostrich feathers.
1t is rather singular that the scrawny
girls, with thin necks and arms, will per-
sist in wearing low, round waists, abso-
lutely sleeveless, and exposing long, flesh
less arms and necks in a way that is pain
full. Their fine dressing cannot prevent
the idea of suffering from entering ones
mind; and one wonders If they have a
cruel stepmother, if they get enough to
eat. and il it would not be a charity to
give Juem Ouc squoiO hOoi Gnu IhuS
supply q little roundness to the poor, at
tenuated bodies.
There are handsome, plump women, on
the contrary, who are joy to look at.
The rich edge of collar or lace ruffle falls
back from fair throat and the glimpse Of
a perfect neck. The arms are
covered by the gloves, which
reach nearly to the lower edge of
the short sleeves. Often a rounded
s'cap" of thin material, caught up in the
centre, or a mere fall OF light, beaded
fringe, matching the trimming upon the
dress. These toilets seem particularly
we'll suited to the semi-publicity Of such
an occasion as the opera; of course, for
those who occupy conspicuous positions.
Orchestra seats do not demand full dress,
in tact, it would be very much out OF
place. Ladies occupying orchestra seats
wear bonnets, and usually, short calling
or carriage dresses.
The fans fashonably employed are the
.Princess of Wales" consisting OF
group of five long curled ostrich feathers,
mounted as a Prince OF Wales plume,
with aigrette in the centre; and the trans
parent fans OF gauze or Grape, hand
painted aud mounted on thin, carved
sticks OF fragrant wood. There are mag
niticent fans to be seen Of ostrich feathers
white, black and in natural tints-
mounted in the ordinary way with rich
pearl or tortoise shell sticks, but these
are now monoplized by the dearest
mamas.
There is entire absence Of the immense
bouquets OF flowers which formerly deco
rated the front of every box, were held