Smyrna times., 1886-12-22
For the Smyrna Times.
Letter From DR., Ella F. Swinney
MOUNTAINS, NEAR NrNGpo, CHINA

MOUNTAINS, NEAR NINGPO, CHINA,
September u, 1886.
DEAR SIR: My silence has been by
force of circumstances. during which
time | was unable to write. An epidem-
ic that swept through Shanghai found
me an easy victim, overcome as | was
by the heat and the number of patients.
When recovering from this severe
illness, of a choleraic character. | was
able, on Aug. 4th, though in much
weakness, to take the steamer for
NingpO. The air, fresh from off the
water, was reviving; and during the
night the ocean breeze blowing in at
my state-rOOm window seemed to give
new life to me.
realized at this time that old ocean
rolled the same as ever, vet did not
| show its fierceness. AT daylight we
were sailing among beautiful islands.
then turned into the river, reaching
NingpO before seven N the morning.
BY the blessing of God, the kindness
and care of DR.. Barchet and his wife
enabled me in two weeks to undertake
this journey to the mountains, hoping
here TO gain complete restoration to
health, and thus be able to return
to my work. Here many of our
Shanghai, SoochoW and Ningpo friends
are spending the summer, away from
the oppressive heat of those cities.
1t was about sunset on Thursday
evening that we entered the canal
boat, in which my servant had placed
my trunk, bedding and the many sup
plies and comforts we would need both
on the journey and on the hills. The
boat had abundance of room, as the
canal was full to overlooking bv the
treshet from the recent typhsn.
We passed around the native CITY.
from the north to the south gate, en-
lOying the sight of the high wall at our
left, now one thousand years old, COW
cred with ivy and moss; also thewidth
OF waters about us, and beyOnd at our
right the varied landscape, beautiful
as We often find it in China, now en-
hanced by the glowing sunset, and
hnaily by the dim light of the cleaning.
ThewisdOm and ingenuity manifested
in the plans of the gates ofthe different
cities in this country have greatly in
terested me, and this evening, in passing
the north, west and south gates. the
last two of which are water gates as
we'll and all different, only increased
my desire to study this subject the
more. These massive structures. with
the crowds coming and going, cannot
fail to recall to our minds many saw
ings, especially this one: THAT thev
may have right to the tree of life. and
may enter in through the gates into
the city" In the evening the heat was
very great, with apparently no air stir
ring, so that | do not remember in nv
life but one other night as hot as this.
and that was in coming down from
Soochow in house boat year ago.
1t was a pleasant thing when morn
ing seemed near, for the boatmen sent
IN word at three o'clock that we
had reached Ming Kong Jan. At
four o'clock l sent my letter in to the
native pastor, and soon was made COM
Portable in the guest room of the only
foreign house in the village. When
ABOUT entering the gate my servant
came to me in Il startled way and said
DO you hear that noise?" Turning
around in full view of the river and
canal, with the hills rising abruptly all
about us, beautiful in the moonlight. 7
paused to listen. Eyes, l hear" | said.
Coming a step or two towards me and
speaking In an awe-stricken, low tone.
ne said: " 1t is the noise of waters. !"
On" l said, there are no evil spirits
among these hills; it is only the sound
the water makes in coming down the
rapids" He retreated towards the
boat, but with a strange gait, as though
some dread was upon him. He is still
a heathen, though with some knowl-
edge of the gospel, and l wondered
what superstitiOus thoughts were pass-
ing through his mind.
The pastor now hired reliable men
with two tiny little boats to take US up
the rapids. AT twenty minutes of six
that morning they came to say all was
ready, and promised to take us to the
foot OF the mountains by twelve o'clock.
Our goods were distributed in the
two boats, with my servant in the first
one and my bamboo arm chair being
placed in the centre of the other, which
was just wide enough for it, indicated
that was to make my home in the
second one for the first half of the dav.
Inc scenery was beautiful, the air
was fresh and cool, and the boatmeO
sent the little skiffs swiftly over the
water. Soon we came to some rapids.
where the forward man sprang out and
commenced pulling, while the manager
at the stern put forth great strength to
push the boat onward with his pole.
Seeing the rocks stretched entirely
from bank to bank and the water pour
over, l thought it an impossible thing
IhaC boat should ever get above them.
On closer inspection l saw narrow
space In the falls where the rocks ap-
peared to have been blasted or removed
IN some way, so the boat could pass up
an inclined plane; and though the
waters were rushing madly down this
gap, yet towards it the PROV of the
forward boat was turned.
Now the man in the stern leaped out
into the waters surging about his waist.
seized a pole in the boat six or eight
feet long, fastened it in a socket at a
right angle to the boat, and thus guild
ing and pushing with great exertions.
their boat finally reached the level
above. Here this wonderful man made
one quick leap into the boat, throwing
the pole in at the same time: and
catching up lighter one was instantly
pushing the boat forward, that the force
OF the waters above might not carry it
down again. He would plant his pole.
perhaps fourteen feet in length, in the
bed of the river, lean far forward into
the boat, then rise up slowly to stand
ing position, sink quickly back into a
little seat provided in the stern, and,
with violent jerk, throw the boat
along about twice its length. While
thus engaged in smooth waters, the
foremost man would take a large coil
of rope, and wading to the shore, assist
by pulling They wear but little cloth
ing, yet always have good straw san
dals securely fastened on their feet, to
protect them when springing in and
out, or walking on the stones or rocks.
The Muscular development of these
men seemed of the highest order, and
miOht ehauaa n sauo,fI;ok - L..