The Austin weekly statesman. (Austin, Tex.) 1883-1898, 1886-11-04

AUSTIN WEEKLY STATESMA
that has become common between our
women of society and those of Europe,
has established the low bodice and short
sleeve, or no sleeve, as the regulation form
for full evening dress, especially for
young and young married women, as de-
cisively as the "swallowtail' coat is de
riguer for men. High fashion is confined
to few; therefore, nine tenths of the
world may live and die without ever know
ing in what it consists. But within the
charmed circle in America, at least in the
great cities, the observance of all the
lmmoralities of dress has become as strict
as in the gayest capitals of Europe.
Where the fashions come from that be-
come fashion, is always question.
Formerly it was often from some acct
dent or caprice on the part of noted or
conspicuous. Now the subject has be-
Come too large ono, and correlation of
force is required to affect it, Popularity,
fashion periodicals are considered au-
thorities, but they are quite secondary in
the minds of New York modistes to
ideas" derived from Worth's or Puigat's
latest. Leading dress makers take some
of the French fashion journals for their
own benefit, but they do not often show
them to their customers; never with the
purpose of taking models from them;
publication has made them "too com
mon." Every one employs a special
artist, who makes outline sketches of the
models received from abroad, of which no
two among any number from five to fifty
will be alike.
These outline figures preserve the pure
form, and are more suggestive as a base
to work from than the dressed up designs
loaded with trimming and drapery, which
all look alike, and the same this year as
last.
REVOLUTION OF FASHIONS.
New fashions are of slow growth. 1t is
very rarely that any revolution in fash
ion occurs; the conventional mind does
not admit of it. The high priestess in
any ordinary temple of fashion-that is
to say, leading modiste-while all the
time on the lookout for ideas, is very care
full not to adopt any Which may seem
outre or too esthetic. The woman of
fashion sometimes considers an ugly
thing admirable; but she is shy of what
ever may have a Bohemian or ''profes-
sional" flavor.
A recently arrived English actress aY-
peared at the theatre one evening, in
which she was going to play, in long
cloak of dark plush, lined with old gold
satin, and bakers cap to match, above an
aureole of lovely, fair hair. She was seen
by a society lady, who had just purchased
an imported cloak very much like it, at
cost of four hundred dollars. She imme-
diately took it back and had it cut up into
a small, undistinguishable and undistin-
guished garment.
1t is not now matter of knowledge or
taste when woman is well or completely
dressed; it is merely matter of money.
There are hundreds of women in New
York city who never bestow thought
upon their clothes, except to give an order
for what they want. The modiste selects
the materials, makes the costume and
supplies not only the requisite trimmings
and tinish but the shoes, the capote, or
hat, ii one be required, even the hose and
proper mouchoir.
One mistake is uniformly made, and
that is, in making the elaborate "tea-
gown" do duty as morning dress. The
tea-gown is of English origin. 1t is only
of late that it has become naturalized in
Paris. English ladies wear these long,
loose, graceful gowns for 5 O'Clock tea
which always assumes the character of an
informal reception; but even in the after
noon and for social event, few of them
would display the richness of fabric which
is here seen in gowns used only as morn
ing wrappers. One brought over lately
was made with princess back and train
of leaf brown striped and figured velvet
and velontine. The fronts are of striped
velvet and open, lace-like embroidery,
lined with pale satin; and the entire front
was of shrimp pink Grape, tied across di.
agonally with wide, brown satin franchise
ribbon.
Morning dresses that are not gowns,
that /, cut in the princess style
all in one, are "frOcks," and for these the
"old fashioned" back is in vogue and
moyenage body, cut off three inches al
the back below the line of the waist, the
three back widths of the skirt ga inches
wide) gathered to it, sewed in heavy
seam on the "wrong side, then turned
over and the folds allowed to fall straight
to the floor.
Some pretty morning dresses have been
made of red nuns yelling, with garnlture
of cream lace, en- cascade, and satin rib
bon in the shade of pompeian red fol
decoration. Ribbons are more used for
the decoration of indoor dresses than ever
before, and are lovely in tint and color
The most fashionable are solid, with picot
and other fancy edges; but there are
striped ribbons which are used fiat, in con
junction with plain materials.
But perhaps the most useful of all thu
morning robes, are those of red chuddai
wool, lined with red silk and strapped
across a silk, plated front, with SQUARE
tongues of the material, fastened with ole
silver buckles.
Last winter the straight, full skirt, usec
now for indoors, and some cloth walking
dresses, was employed for evening wear
Even yet, some handsome lace dresses
both black and white, are simply gathered
over the silk or satin skirt, and caught NJ
here and there, as the wearer chooses
with ribbons or flowers; ribbon being the
more generally employed. But the Dewes
evening dresses display more elaboration