Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-05-02

different heights that are really won
derful. In one place three levels Of ths
track are 20 far from each other thai
We could scarcely credit that they b.
longed 70 one continuous line. Soor
after these extensive twists and turns
We came to Airolo, and then into the
st. Gothsrd tunnel, which We passed
through In % minutes. The air is com
paratively pure in it, and not cold, as w
expected. Every one knows this won.
derful piece Of engineering took seven
and half years to perform, that Il
passes under the Ksstelhorn, Ander.
matt, and q small lake, and then comes
out at Goschenen. But it is hard 10
realize that 1t is anything extraordinary,
and much more interest hangs round
the twists and turns to people in gene
raj.
BEAUTIFUL VIEWS.
At Goscbenen we stayed twenty
minutes for luncheon, and then went
forward, and still had most beautiful
views. This line has innumerable
bridges and yiaducts spanning gorges
and valleys, thus affording an unim-
peded view in many places on both
sides, which fine weather and sunshine
enabled as luckily to see well. After
We reached Amsteg, about twenty
miles from Goschenen, the beauty OF
the day was gone, and we did not
see the sun again till we left Switzer-
land. As we went down lower
towards Luzerne the sky was heavier
and heavier, and had most depressing
effect on our spirits, and made us feel
as if we had come down from the Ely
sian fields into the shades below. Luz
zerne itself was in the deepest winter
garb, and nothing was visible but the
town and the lake, not even the
speck of a shadow Of a mountain.
The hotels were deserted, tho shops
closed, and the famous "Lion Of Lu-
zerne," sculptured by Thorwaldsen, in
remembrance Of the bravery Of
the Swiss guard of the Tuile-
ries in 1892, was covered up with
mating. Few people who have seen
Luzerne at itsbest in summer can imagine
what a transformation it undergoes in
winter. Instead Of an outlook whose
beauty defes description, and the
changing light on mountain top, and
on the quivering lake aglow with color,
there was nothing but dull, lifeless
water, and beyond an absolute blank.
The heavy gary, freezing atmosphere
clasped US tight and left us no power
even for shiveriDg. We were told Luz
zerne is for weeks like this, and only on
rare occasions at this time of year is
the sun visible. We came to the
conclusion that similar land must
have given rise to all the German ideas
Of long sleep and grand awakening
that come out in their stories. When
we left Luzerne on our way to Schaff-
hansen the aspect Of the country was
just the same, and nothing was visible
above slight elevation from the ground.
There was no ice on the Lake of Luz
cerne, but many Of the small pieces of
water in the neighborhood and along
the railway were frozen hard and COW
cred with skaters.
FALLS OF THE RHINE.
From Schaflhausen we drove to the
Falls of the Rhine, which at this time
of the year are not very full Of water,
and owing to the dark sky lacked their
summer brilliancy. Still they were
pretty to look at, and dashed away
over the rocks in foaming spray, as if
they were uttering q protest against the
rest Of nature going into retirement.
We drove through the quaint and anti
quated town Of Schaff hansen, which is
less modernized than most are, but it
needed the summer warmth and excite
ment to show itself off to the best ad-
vantage. Soon after we left Schaf-
! ausen the natural sky came back.
DC first thing that interested us were
ruins Of the castle of Hohentwiel,
tuated on an isolated eminence. A
W years ago German named Schef-
icl wrote a novel called Ekkehard,"
and laid the plot at Hohentwiel in the
tenth century. 1t gives a very good
description Of the country, and clear
picture Of the customs of the time,
and it is also said to be historically
true, though, like most German
novels in general, it is rather
long. The country between Schah-
hansen and Stuttgart is varied in
character, some Of it being extremely
pretty. In parts the railway passes
through mountains Of medium height,
where there are many picturesque spots,
besides remains Of old castles, cele-
brated in history. These are mostly
perched on detached volcanic rocks that
the surrounding district for
some extent. Near Stuttgart the land
is more suitable for agriculture, though
not especially interesting in appearance
1t this season. On our arrival SUIT
CART itself was having a spell of re-
pleasant weather, which
made us believe spring was at hand, and
fully reconciled us to coming North so
Early. MILDRED RUSSELL.