Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1886-02-25
EXQUISITE EELS.
A JAPANESE DISH AND ITs MAN
NER OF PREPARATION.
BroiIed EeIs Brought to Table in
Lacquered Boxes-A Visit
to q Japanese Restau-
rant Kitchen.

= fe->A-'e SeeANtOAlI hAO udu D6cH cOuCdlCO
at Harvard. The object Of the visit was
to partake Of dish Of unagi, Or broiled
eels, aJapanese dainty. We quote from
the letter as follows.
care the eels good to-day91 patroniz-
ingly inquired my friend of the proprie-
tor. II have heard that theirfiavorisn not
quite what it used to be. Doyou pro-
cure them from the city canals, or are
they from the Sumida river2D The pro
prietor bowed, then twitched the left
corner Of his mouth, after the fashion of
Japanese uttering joke, and answered;
Honorable sir, do you for a moment
imagine / should offer canal-bred eels to
such judge as yourself9 Mo, mol you
know that have a high reputation and
buy nothing but the most beautiful eels
that come from the Sumida. Remember
ing that the time was near for you to pay
us visit, I have saved some of the finest
fish you ever saw. Would you like to
come into the kitchen and inspect themr,
'Hai," gently added his wife, who had
listened to his speech with downcast eyes,
that is 50. We have some eels fit for
daimio.
eWhat do you say7" inquired my COM
pauion. "Would you like to visit the
culinary Department."
Not until have dined, !" answered,
shifting suspiciously at the faint odor Of
picked radish that issued from rear de-
partment. The waitress quickly appeared
with some trays containing square, black,
lacquered boxes, bearing the signs of the
house and number. Placing one be-
fore each Of us, she removed the tightly
fitting lids and revealed the contents,
which were sections Of nicely Drowned,
broiled, split eels, skewered together,
that gave out most appetizing odor.
The girl smiled as she watched my looks,
and replenishing my saucer, placed it
near me, murmuring:
II think you will find the unagi very
pleasing to your taste. I"
took my chopsticks in my right hand,
inserted the points in the fish, broke off
a morsel and ate. Ye gods! It was
delicious rich, tender delicately fla
vored aud bonelessl drew my box
toward me, nodded approvingly at the
attendant, and enjoyed the delectab,e
food. The smiling girl brought in box
after box, the contents of each being
nicer than the last. / have partaken Of
fried oysters at home, broiled fish in all
countries and the delicacies of every
cline, but have never more thoroughly
enjoyed any dish than I did those eels
At last laid down my chopsticks, and,
glancing at my friend exclaimed:
''You were right in saying that this is
dish for the gods We ought to intro
duce it at home" The waitress bowed
in acknowledgement of my praise, and
inquired if we would like to eat some
rice.
eyes" nodded my companion. ST
think could empty bowl Or two
Away went the girl, who, after brief
delay, returned bearing large tray on
which was covered wooden tub, con
tanning hot rice, two lacquered bowls,
teapot and some tiny cups.
contrived to eat one portion Of the
delicious, well-cooked cereal, then
lighted my pipe and watched my friend,
who had his bowl reflled dozen times,
and moistened his food by saturating it
with tea.
',How do you contrive to render the
skins of the FISH so tenderl" asked the
girl.
'Tdo not know, she answered, glanc-
ing timidly at the mats "The cooks
never permit us to learn their secrets. If
you like to visit the kitchen they viii no
doubt explain everything to you"
''Now for the bin, said my compan-
ion, reflIing his pipe altogether, you
have given us q. very tolerable meal" In
few moments she came back, carrying
small scoop-like tray, in which was
placed slip Of paper containing a reck
oning. This she pushed along the mat
toward him; and then bowed and re
mained with her face close to the floor,
while he minutely scrutinized the docu-
ment. Taking his purse from his sleeve
he dropped some paper money into the
tray, and remarked in low tone:
'sYou may keep the change 90 cents)
His munitcence almost overpowered the
waitress, who bowed repeatedly, and
gratefully mumured: 'fYour generosity
resembles that Of foreigner. Any one
can see that you have travelled After
we had smoked awhile he asked whether
I would like to visit the kitchen, and on
my replying in the affirmative, summoned
the landlady, who said: s'You honor us
too greatly. MY husband shall show you
how we prepare the eels.n We rose,
quilted the room and descended the lad
der-ike stairway, the steps Of which were
polished smooth as glass, slipped on our
foot-coverings and entered the kitchen.
On the hard earthen floor were rows Of
little charcoal furnaces, provided with
iron rods that served as rests for the
skewered eels. Maroki, whose only fail
ing was a weakness for bowling and
politely sucking in his breath between
his speeches, led the way and was ex-
ceedingly attentive. Pointing to arrange
Of tubs containing fine specimens Of fish,