Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1886-05-19
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

THE RAGE FOR JET-OTHER TRIMMINGS
DUDES AND THEIR IMITAToRs-wHITE
CosTUMEs-LAcEs- Es-EMBRoIDERIEs.
For the SPECTATOR
To say that there is a rage for jet, is but
family to express it. All former RACES
ent one, and really some word should be in
vented to picture positive insanity on the
/ subject. The ultra fashionable looks, in
deed, quite like ''subject''-so beladen as
to move with difficulty, yet consciously
happy in proportion to her burdens. Net
| works of jet afford complete waist-ceverings
and over such cuirass repeated strings of
large jet beads may be suspended about the
| neck, but independent jet ornaments are
very stylish, while jet passementeries di-
vide favor with grenadine bands closely COW
| cred with small jet pendants. Corded pas
sementeries are fashionable, either with or
without Jet, and the passementerie drops
are still very much liked, either placed
singly or as additions to passementerie Or
namcnts. Grenadines appear with closely
covering figures composed of jet, and as an
outcome, are grenadines where colored
beads take the place of jet. The entire sur
face is thus illumined and these sparkling
grenadines are popular for short wraps or
parts Of dresses. Many new silk and some
few wool costumes are trimmed by jet or
colored bead patterns sewn on the goods
perhaps the entire front, side, panels, ETC.
Large beads set on the edge of skirt dra-
perry, outlining basque, collar, cuffs, etc.,
are a quite new idea, and as being new, will
doubtless be much in vogue. Chenille is
seen again, but flat and combined with
jet or beads. Wooden beads are still used,
but not in profusion. Gallons are orna-
mented by jet, colored glass or wooden
beads, both large and small. One might
pronounce society insane on the subject of
BUTTONS,
not SO many, but so large-elaboratel dec
grated in proportion to size, and the size so
conspicuous that a gentleman-of average
ignorance it is true-said the other day,
'She carries her dinner service around with
her," Fully as large as individual butter
plates, the resources Of art have been taxed
both in material and workmanship. Pearl
is variously colored or mixed with metal; ;
metal is curiously wrought; wood is color
ed, carved, and sometimes mixed with met
al, while on all there often is addition of
painting, which produces pretty pictures
Moonlight scenes are frequent and the ro-
nance of cavalier breathing VOWS among
flowers beneath lady's window, is not too
peetical for an age of railroads. The hand
soonest styles mount up extravagantly-
even to twenty-five dollars apiece, but
something very nice can be had for from
one to three dollars. One or two buttons
| at times do duty at the throat as clasp to
the extravagantly high collar, but the gem
eral use is on skirts and jackets. There are
small buttons to match, but they do not
take" readily, especially as it is admissi-
BILE to close the waist by a small crocheted
button usually in ball shape, though flat
ones are chosen, or ought to be, by stout
people. Conspicuous buttons are manifest
ly unsuitable to cotton goods, for which
small pearl buttons, often in ball style, are
most fashionable. Almost all kinds are
this year with shank.
buttons give particular opportunity to a
certain class of young ladies who seem to
desire above all things to look mannish.-
They and the dudes are having race, the
chosen equipments being short coats, high
hats, high collars above all, and certain
bracing of the shoulders and conscious
''look at-me" air. Walking canes and trou-
sers afford the young men advantage, but
the fair imitator forgets a good deal of her
hustle in the contest, puts on straight, hang
ing skirts and handles her long handled
parasol as if it were a cane. There are some
special new styles in gentlemen's dress and
dudes' apart. Every family should be pro-
vided with the Spring fashion-plate issued
by Hackett Carhart & Co., the weIl-known
clothiers, Canal st. and Broadway, filled,
as it is, with the latest information regard
ing material, shapes, and prices of mems
and boys clothing. Illustrations abound,
and as samples of material are sent, one
can shop as if on the spot. The firm man.
ufacture themselves, which accounts for
low figures, while the thorough examina-
tion to which every garment is subjected,
together with long-established reputation,
guarantees reliability in all particulars.
WHITE COSTUMES.
Velvets, while in themselves often curious
mixtures, are also wonderfully mixed in
with white costumes. White wool is in no
other way so styishly relievad as by finish
ings of velvet, and if lace be added, the
picture becomes complete. Colored velvet
plays large part in such adOrnments, and
one may imagine the unique and really
tasteful effect of a white wool with col
larette, cuffs, sash, and perhaps some loop
ings or panel of colored velvet, such as
pink, blue, olive, moss. ETC., edged by lace.
Black velvet is fashionable for like pur-
poses, but objected to by some as rather
staring. though the cream shadings of many
white goods, and lace as well, go far liz
toning down such objection. An employ
ment of mixed or fancy velvets gives fur
r.r,fx 10 fho, ofx
cotton goods, whether white or coiored,
opens the way to illimitable choice. As
rival to velvet for unitngs with white ma
terial, come surah and twilled silk, lace be-
ing frequently added. French nainsook is
fashionable, but embroidery is SO much in
request that it almost supersedes plain fab
ric. Well-nigh universally in founcings of
greater or less depth, the deepest reaching
the entire length of the skirt, with patterns
graduating in size up to the waist. EN-
broidery set in stripes is, however, particu-
larly liked, and runs both ways of the
goods. Lace is at times united with this
all-pervading embroidery, and with excel
lent effect.
of all kinds, and set on in all manner of
ways, are an important factor in white cos
tunes; no description of their use can be
exaggerated, because exaggeration cannot
exceed truth. Embroidery is noticeable in
thin goods other than white. Dress patterns
put up in boxes are seen everywhere, and
usually of contrasting colors, so that in the
way of finishing on cottons, embroidery and
lace can be set down as the two garnitures
Of the day, ribbons and velvet being acces-
sories. Ribbon sashes, indeed, while no.
table addition to white dresses, are perhaps
more noticeable with colored, because the
idea has more novelty. Satteen, batiste,
canvas or seersucker are relieved by rib
bon sash of contrasting color, such as red
on blue, pale blue on garnet, brown on
pink, and the like. Lovely evening dress
es of China Grape are adorned by Japanese
embroidery, where rich patterns show gold
color throughout, or where rich contrasts
have not always regard to nature, as blue
roses attended by yellow leaves, and the
like. Gold thread embroidery illumines
white China Grape, and there come bands
of Japanese embroidery in floss silk on
short length of China Grape, which is COM
h;poI with onctyp,oc Of otbar 6, br;o