Lancaster daily intelligencer. [volume] (Lancaster, Pa.) 1864-1928, 1886-08-07
A DAY In ROME.
From DABN TO DsRk IN THE srsR
Nal CRY.
How to employ the Timc-susgestions Il
Tourists-Treasurcs of the Nsticau-Night
scenes-The Routine OF u summers
Day Quite Graphically Depicted.


that come in from the stony streets, but |
cheered 10y the sunshine that sends its bril-. |
liant arrows through his blinds and halt'
drawn curtains and gilds the long lines oi |
the roof and Coruice OF the building opPoSlIe |
Following the advice of the slorekeePer III |
America, " II YOU don't see what you want |
ask for it," he rings for such articles as may |
be necessary to his toilet and has his wants |
supplied 10y smiling Chamhormaid, who |
would be glad To speak some language be- |
sides Italian, but caunoL or 10y an oNorwOrk' |
ed jarcon who, in the dullness oi the warm |
season, struggles vaiuly to perform comb. |
nation of duties. quiet reiCus throughout
the establishment, III Office, court and corri-
dor. The breakfast room has deserted as
peCt In fact, the tourist may be the only
foreign guest OF the hotel, aud may have Law.
ished upon him all the attentions bestowed
in the winter season on multitude of guests
that fill the now darkeued saloon and general
dining room. The proprietor and his clerk
are pretending To be busy, though their chief
occupation during the day is to browse in the
office, sleep in the court or wander III n
dreamy, listleSs aud altogether useless way
about the halls and into the adjacent streets,
where they gossip lszily with the shopkeep-
ersS Ii a carriage is wanted for the day. or
to go to a particular place, II il well to diCker
with the COaChman, who Will demand twice
the regular fare for any point beyond the
walls, though he will, after little gentle re-
mOnstrance, listen to reason. II a carriage
il not desired, one emerges into the AZ iOln-
ing street, which may be, according to the To-
cation of his hotel, the Via Erattina, the
Piazza III Spragns, the Piazza iii Colunna, the
Via Na2ionsle, where his first glance falls on
Traian's column, or into the narrow aud tor
tuOus, but not uubusiuess like Corso.
NECESSARY FRECAUTIuNS.
Ng,, pnf n
brella Ii you do not take carriage select
| the narrow thoroughfares All the streets
are "a straight rs the way that leadeth to eter-
nal life, but il j. necessary 10 choose the mar
| rowest that conducts to the desired goal, for
| the sunshine rarely falls to its lowest levels
| aud along it draws over a gentle and refresh
| ing breeze. SO far overcome your natural
| incliustions to repose as to be ready t. leave
| your hotel before the sun is far up the east
| ern slope OF the heavens and either return
| to II before ii, or to arrange your time a. TO
| pass the hours from III to or in some
| church or museum, whose drafts and damp
| ness, though more dangerous than the mid
| day heat, can be easily guarded against
| Carriage hire Is not expensive, and II the
| time is precious and the places to be visited
| little Off the main lines of communication
| ii will be found economical to use this means
| of loComotiOn. II one prefers the street cars
| or omnibuses he will be liable by this means
| to reach with little inconvenience nearly
every point OF interest within the limits Of
the city and not a few that are far beyond the
| walls
| MORNING SCENES.
All the streets and places are still half in
shadow. \ soft mist from lovely fountain
touches him with refreshing moisture. A
stately obelisk throws its shadow across his
pathway. Beggars haunt the portico of the
adjoining church, in and out of whose cush
ioned doors steal poorly clad figures or now
and then an English traveller habited like q
friar OF orders gray, his guide-bOok burning
| like a flame. His clothes are subdued il
| tone, but, with rare exceptions, this class o
| tourists is never subGued in manner. Then
having fully emerged into the iuliness of til,
soft yet richly ditiused daylight, he pause
| TO think whittier he shall turn his course anC
how he shall spend his day most proflably
| among the antique riches and the mOderr
| poverty of Rome And while he is think nl
he invests two cents in glass of lemonade
which a peasant-llke girl, standing behind
miniature fountain in little opening in tht
| wall resem bling the wicket in an American
postoliiCe, offers him with smile that h,
takes all TO himself, though it is gratuitOuslS
lavished on the whole world irrespective o
social station. By this time he has concluded
that he will go to the Vatican or ST Peter's
1t may be the first time, it may be the second
or third, but this makes no difference. One
may live years in Rome yet still visit with
| ever-renewed interest the most magnificent
church in the world and the art maryels o.
the Papal palace. So, having looked in al
the neighboring church, where a black-robed
priest wIthdraws for his convenience the cur
| tain which covers the " Christ on the Cross y
by Guido, hanging above the altar, ht
| mounts the omnibus and is borne through
| the devious streets and across the Ponte
Santo to Angelo to the sacred locality.
AT THE VATICAN.
As all the roads in Italy once conducted Il
Rome, so alt the omnibus lines in Rome con
duct to ST. Peters. 1t is taken for granted
that everybody wants to go there, and wants
to go often. No matter in what quarter of til,
city you happen to be you get on the passn.
omnibus or street car, aud in few minutes
find yourself under the walls OF the Vatican
Your first idea OF it is that it is building o
surprising ugliness aud you do not recover
| from your primal impression. The multi
| tude OF omnibuses of all lines are drawn uI
| in rows at the end of one OF the colonades al
the oval place which gives the church It's per
| spective opposite the wall, which you have
| ample opportunity to contemplate arriving
and departing. 1t seems 10 rise before yOT
| in numberless stories, bare, blank small
wlndowed, without cornice destitute of or
nsment That 1t may seem little more ri
dculous the domestics of the Papal house
hold, who live on this side, on wash DAYS
hang out OF the windows the family linen
including the articles OF wearing apparel
whose usefulness il onfessed, but whose
names are not mentioned in polite society,
and there it dries and blanches and waves
and flutters on the outer walls like Macbeth
banners.
| AN ARCHITECTURAL FAILURE.
The architecture OF the Vatican will not
bear discussion. Dating back to Charlie.
magne and having been slowly aggrandzed
by the addition OF ugly building after ugly
building, 1t has acquired an extraordinary
ensemble OF unattractiveness, with dimen-
sIons whose hugeness of extent are best de-
scIibed by the statement that the palace com.
| prlses twenty courts and LOCO rooms chan
els, halls and subdivisions of various kinds
And all these various inner divisions are
characterized by length, or length and height.
without sufficient breadth To secure Rar
nony OF proportion. The Sistine chapel /.
simply the enlargement of monks cell n
is l30 feet long by 40 wide, and on the cell
| Ing, which is so high that the most powerful
| glasses hardly render 1t visible, are the won
deriul frescoes of Michael Angelo You can
| only see them at the risk Of distortng your
neck, or by lying on your back on one OF the
| benches, and to add to the discomfort the
| light Is miserable. So OF the other halls
which are adorned with the frescoes of Ra-
phael and with the paintings by this and
others OF the old masters. They are long and
narrow, and Gods sunlight Is admitted as
| sparingly as II there were prohibitiye duty
| levied on II and IL we're not in impoyerished
| Italy the one thing which nature has Law
ished with boundless prodigality.
| COMMON FAULT.
| Rut IL IL a of