Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-06-27

Thirty Years war and the most vaiu-
able books sent to the Pope. The last
touches were scarcely put to the
Elizabeth building Of the castle
when this war broke out, in 1913,
snd devastated Germany, but spared
the castle from much damage. only for
it TO destroyed by the French in the
war that followed forty years later.
One would think that q war that was
fought two hundred years ago would at
least have died out Of the memory OF
the people at large by now; but they
speak Of it and its raysges almost as IL
it had taken place the week before last.
All the castles along the Rhine shared
the same fate as Heidelberg. As far
As they are concerned, ii is probably a
good thing because they were so near
TO each other.
The interesting points Of history con-
nected with the Rhine towns begin with
their foundation by the Romans, pass
through their conversion to Christlani-
ty, and their progress in modern learn
ing.
OTHER CITIES.
From Heidelberg We went to the
cities Of Speyer, Worms, and Mainz to
see the three cathedrals that are typical
Of the beauty that the Romanesque or
round-arched style which preceded the
Goibic in the North can attain. The
cathedrals have been more or less
restored in their original style and are
extremely interesting, but the towns,
though rebuilt, have little but their as
sociations to attract foreigners. Speyer
cathedral, the most beautiful Of the
three, is entirely restored and the inte-
rior covered with frescoes. After
crossing o broad atrium and enter
| ing it is strange to see cathedral so
old look so thoroughly new, the paintings
especially having brsn-new air and
being quite good ones in their way.
| The Characteristic round arches are
seen at once in all their effectiveness in
the long double row OF twelve that
border the nave, and which the princi-
pal paintings surmount. This huge
building has been restored since 1929,
and now nearly the whole surface Of
the walls Of the nave and east end are
covered with frescoes, the work having
been done by Y. Schraudolph and his
pupils. These frescoes were the first
of several groups by modern painters
that we had an opportunity Of seeing
in our tour northward.
CoMPACTNEss OF OUTLINE.
The outside OF the cathedral is
striking by its compactness Of outline
two domes, four towers, and al eastern
ape giving it notifications Of the
severity Of the plan. Under every
part Of the roof and extending round
the whole Cathedral is a palisading OF
slight and narrow arches that relieve
the massive wall surfaces like an edging
Of lace to heavy drapery. This is one
Of the special exterior ornaments Of this
style of rchitecture. The whole pre-
sents time and trouble-defyiDg aspect
Of repose and solidity. The cathedral
was founded in 1890 by the Emperor
Conrad IT. for burial-place for him.
self and his successors. and for nearly
three hundred years served this
purpose. The French broke their
graves open and robbed them
before setting fire to the cathedral,
and after peace was restored the scat
tered bones were collected and placed
in the crypt. This cathedral has been
burnt out at least three times, but the
walls are Of such solidity that they
have not suffered much. 1t seems odd
to speak Of its being the same after So
many renewals, but the plan, Of course,
remains unaltered. There is the same
broad atrium or entrance hall stretch
ing the whole width Of the church; the
same imposing breadth and height Of
nave and aisles, as well as the chief
choir raised high above the old
crypt. The view from this raised
/ end looking downwards through
the arches is magnificent, having the ad-
vantage Of the view in the opposite
direction, because all the delicate beauty
Of the east is lost in the distance. The
cathedral is at the extremity of the
town and scarcely seems to belong to it,
and the two are thoroughly incoDgru-
Gus, for the town strikes stranger as
resembling some poor creature doomed
TO exist for no apparent rhyme or rea-
son; yet it is said it has improved
greatly Of late years.
WORMS.
Worms, the second Of the three
csthedrsls, is still unrestored, accord
ing to modern ideas, though the plans
are under discussion. The bare walls
show all their natural strength and
crudity, as we'll as deep crack made
in the eastern tower by powder put
under it TO spring it. The present
floors being much higher than the origi-
nal one is accounted for by the ddbris
formed by the household goods Of the
citizens placed in it under promise
that the cathedral would be spared
from the general destruction Of the
town. The promise was not kept, and
when the building was packed full it
was set on fire. The high altar is now
at the west end, and is to be faced
by one at the east in the con-
templsted restoration. The exterior
has four towers and two domes, as at
Speyer, but, though similar, this cathc-
DIAL does not equal its bigger rival.
The cloisters remain in part and are
Gothic and of later date, and curious
specimen of very old stonework exists
in a realistic representation Of Daniel
in the lions den. Worms was a Ro-
man settlement of importance, and
also the very centre Of German poetry,
for it was the scene of the chief events
of the Niebelungen Lied, made familiar
TO every one now by Wsgner's operas.
In the open space before the very doors
of the cathedral the Queens Brunhild
and Chriemhild had their terri
bic quarrel that caused the destruc-
ton Of nearly all belonging to them.
In Worms, too, the sternest events to
which even poetry must cede in inter-
est took place, for Luther resolutely
IN Amt AIM Al hie an;nionS in prasenca of