St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1886-05-30

that it has not been duplicated and that she
is the sole possesSor of that chic effect
which tells, without looking at
the lining, where the chapeau
has come from. Other mil
liners may create wonderful bonnets, but
to Dunlap belongs the glory OF creating
wonderful round hats. After all, becom-
ing hat is of much Importance. A bonnet
may be incongruous-may, as the French
man so wlttily remarked, be rose colored.
and therefore unfit to weep in. But one
might weep in round hat, though it will
be wiser TO smile in one. The special shapes
or the season are the sailor English, or
Mrs. CORVALLIS West turban-a half hat,
half bonnet a sort ofpoke, in fact-and the
GainSborough in all its size and all its
pictureSQuenesS.
The sailor hat is particularly smart this
season. 1t is in finer Straws and has the
brim so perfectly finished that it requires
neither binding nor facing. The received
trimming is ribbon arranged in high loops
| i'll front and whatever flowers are found
most becoming. \ fine black straw sailor
is trimmed with band of white ribbon,
over which is laid one of deep orange, the
white being allowed to show above the
| orange about half an inch. In front are
the makers call French fats" and these
are of the white and orange ribbon, deftly
mingled and fastened at the back with
small pearl-headed pins, which show quite
plainly. The ribbon loops constitute hut
one-half of the trimming in front, the
other half being of pale yellow roses that
| shading from white to yellow, harmonize
| perfectly with the fats. This hat was par
ticularly artistic and would adapt itself to
almost any costume. Another sailor is of
brown straw. trimmed with two shades of
brown ribbon, brown ribbon loops and APP
pie blossoms constituting the decoration
in front. As the trimmings stand far up
above the hats, it becomes necessary to
faSten them in some way. and this is done
in every instance with the tiny decorative
pins; they show from the back, and really
keep the bows in place very much better
than would stitches. A pretty little poke
of white straw has loops of olive and pale
pink ribbon in front. while below them.
on the narrow brim and extending to the
| back on each side, Is q wreath OF pink
roses.
Turbans are, more than any others. dis
tinctly round hats; the square crown and
| brim reaching almost up to it is obtaining,
and the style of trimming. while very
| Is W u CCItdlll GAltHl illllllcU. lie
facings of velvet are smoth or else are SIM
ply laid in one or two folds at the very top
A band or scant scarf sinks between the
crown and brim, and there are loops of
ribbons and wings in front. This law is
absolute, and the wings in every instance
are the natural color. 2 a blue
| turban is faced with blue
velvet has a scarf of scarlet velvet
OVERLAND with blue Grape around the crown
and in front loops of velvet, with the Grape
drawn over them, and pale gray wings. A
very beautiful Gainsborough in brown
straw, faced with brown velvet, and with
an enormous cluster of brown feathers upon
it. is rich and will on woman of size and
dignity look very handsome. 1t is to be
hoped that the wrong woman will not
choose it, for it is too beautiful hat to
have its grace wasted.
The long coat, with its cape developed in
| small plalds, has grown to be very familiar
| with prOmenaderS. 1t is a style unusually
becoming to American women, and it is con-
sequently being made up in other than check
goods alone, Irish frieze in black, brown
and gray, with dasheS of color here and
there upon it. aqua scutem (Which is in
reality the old-fashioned waterproof re-
vived), cheviot and homespun are
used for these wraps. The
Irish frieze is waterproofed before
making up, so that one is not obliged to
dread the pretty coat being ruined, aud
there is also the satisfaction of knowing
that one may look we'll on rainy day.
Gray and black stockings are in vogue,
but the stripes must be en- Bayndere and
they must only be worn with black slippers
or low shoes.
The high collar and shirt front is devel-
oped in white linen with the collar of
white percale initiating exactly those ex-
tremely ugly shirts which are shown at the
haberdaShers.
Black gauZe paraSolS are decidedly at
tractive, but such an accident as being
caught in summer shower would be as
fatal to them as il they were made of
butterhy's wings. Heavy silver handles to
be put upon umbrellas or paraSols have
entered the list among the things that may
be betted for. as they are rather more ex-
penSive than gloves or bonbons. Men
whose purses are lighter than their heads
will show wisdom in ignoring them.
The blue surah silk night dresses. trimmed
with ValencienneS lace are shown at an
uptown shop as the newest creation; it is
probable that when bought they will be
used for matinees which is really the only
purpose to which they are adapted.
Turkey red, in combination with blue or
brown zephyrS or sateens, is the vogue;
| consequently, the trade i'll red parasols will
increase.
Brilliantine in gray is also used for these
wraps. For the races there is long wrap
of tan chuddah. trimmed with American
brown velvet and large wooden buttons
that perfectly initiate leather. This is
lined throughout with changeabe silk,
showing gold and blue. With sailor hat
i'll harmony, tan colored gloves and tan
color parasol, lined with changeabe silk.
one of Whistler's sympho MES would be OBJ
| tanned.