Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1886-04-28
Marquis de Chastelleux's Trip to Nat. Bridge,
s-r7 Continued.

"About o'clock in the evening, after
we had travelled 3S miles, we found some
houses, where we learned that we were yet
six miles from Praxton's fPaxton's meant
tavern, where we intended to sleep; that we
had two fords to pass, the last of which was
impracticable on account of the late rains;
but that we should not be stopped, as we
should find canoe to take us across, and
our horses would swim behind. The night,
and black storm which was brewing, made
us hasten our steps, Notwithstanding which
we were obliged to mount and descend a
very high mountain; scarcely was there re-
naming the least twilight when we arrived
at the second river, which is as large as
James,, but near its source, and at place
where it descends from the mountains un-
der the name of Fluvanna. This the North
River of Rockbridge. The difficulty was
to pass ten men and as many horses with
the help of single canoe, such as is made
use Of by the savages, which at most could
contain only four or five persons, and sim
gle negro, armed with paddle instead of
an oar. We put iato the canoe our saddles
and baggage, and made several trips, at
each Of which two horses were swum across
held by the brides. 1t was night, and very
dark before this business was finished; but
after we had, not without great trouble,
re-saddled and reloaded our horses, the
difficulty wai to reach the inn, which was
half mile from the place where we landed
for the river flowed between two precipices,
and as the canoe could not land us at the
ford, nor consequently at the road, we were
obliged to climb up the mountains, by a
path but little used, and very difficult even
by daylight; nor should we ever have found
our way had not engaged the Waterman
to conduct us. We clambered up as well
as we could, everyone leading his horse
through the trees and branches, which we
could not perceive, from the obscurity of
the night, until they struck us on the face
AT last we arrived at PraxtOn's tavern; but
it was 10 O'Clock, and the house already
shut up, or more properly the houses, for
there are two. I approached the first that
offered, and knocked at the door, which
they opened, and we saw five or six little
negroes lying upon mat before the fire.
We then went to the other, and there found
five Or six white children lying in the same
manner; two or three grown-up negroes
presided over each of these little troops
@They told US that Mr. Praxton, his wife,
and all his family were invited to we'd
ding, but not far off, and that they would
60 and fetch them. As for us, We were in
vited to supper by very voracious appe-
tite, after long journey and great deal
Of fatigue, and were very differently sit
uated from the new married couple and
their company, and had no small appIehen-
sions of seeing our host and hostess return
completely drunk; but in this we were de-
ceived; they arrlvSd perfectly sober, were
polite and desirou3 to please, and little
after midnight we had an excellent supper
Though the apartments and beds were not
exactly what we wished, they were better
than at Mrs. Teaze's, and we had no right
to complain. Besides, we enjoyed the sat
isfaction of having accomplished the object
of our journey, for the Natural Bridge was
not above eight miles off, and we had OBJ
tained every information necessary to find
the road. The next morning our breakfast
was ready betimes, and served by the
daughters Of Capt Praxton; they had not
appeared to advantage the previous even
ing, Notwithstanding which, SO far as the
obscurity of the room we supped in, our ap-
petites, and the immense caps in which
they were muff1ed up for the marriage, had
permitted US to judge of them, we thought
them tolerably handsome; but when we saw
them by daylight, with their hair only turn
ed up; without any other head dress, the
repose of the night their sole ornament, and
for every grace, their natural simplicity, we
were confirmed in the opinion we had al
ready formed, that the people of the noun
tains are, in general, handsomer and health
ier than those of the seacoast. There was
i'll the house a young man also. tolerably
well dressed, and of an agreeable coun-
tenance, whom | concluded to be an in
tended match for one of our young hostess
es; but l soon found that he was come for
matches of another kind. In fact, one of
my fellow-travelers inviting me to go and
see very fine horse, which stood alone in
a little stable, | was informed it was q stall
lion, which this young man had brought
upwards of 80 miles, to dispose of his fa-
vors to the mares of the country. His price
was twenty shillings Virginia currency, or IS
lvres Of our money, (about fifteen shillings
sterling), for each visit, or the double if
the connection was Of longer duration;
which is much less than is paid in the other
parts of Virginia. These details which may
appear trifling, will serve, however, to
make the reader acquainted with a coun-
try, the inhabitants of which, dispersed in
the woods, are separated only for the pur-
poSe of domestic comfort which renders
them Independent of each other, but who
readily communicate for the general inter
est or their mutual wants. But am too
near the Natural Bridge to stop at other
Objects"
''%It was singular sight for European
to behold the situation of the negroes in the