The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1886-04-20
OUR FOREIGN LETTER.
a Tour Through Germany.
Especial correspondence of the PRESS

each other to take us iG charge, and we were
soon rumbling over the pavements OF this an
cient city. Hotel du Nord, one of the few
hotels on the continent to which memory re-
verts with pleasure, gave us comfortable
shelter from the rain, and refreshment for
body and mind. One hardly knows where
to begin at Cologne. We took advantage of
eur snatches of fine weather to "do the Ca
thedrals." We have yet to see st. Peters at
Rome, but it is difficult to conceive of any
thing grander than Der Dom. We are thank
full now we listened to the wise counsel
of the friend, who recommended us to begin
with Ireland, seeing there the antiquities of
semi-barbaric ages, next taking England and
Scotland, where are the memorials Of more
advanced civilization, and then to see France.
In this way gradually educating ourselves to
appreciate the prodigal magnifcenee of art
and architecture here, and later to mount up
to knowledge of the elimination of earthly
glories in art beneath the dome of the illimit-
able st. Peters. Everybody must go once
and see the strange relics at st. Ursulas.
This church is said to have been erected DIS
an immense sarcophagus, to hold the bones
of the unhappy eleven thousand Virgins
who attended st. Ursula on her weary Pill
grimage to Rome, travelling on toot from
Basic, where they were murdered by DarOa-
rians ON their return. Centuries later, Wnen
these bodies were exhumed from the vaults,
in remodelling the early church, other de-
vout nuns undertook the pious toll of en-
broidering the skulls with crimson velvet
and gold threads. These are arranged in
show cases reaching the very top of the room
in st. Agnes Chapel The ceiling is COM
pletely covered with their bones, arranged in
geometrical or Persian designs. The story
of such CHASTITY and sepulchral adornments
makes one SILVER; but in truth, there is so
little left which would suggest their simili-
tude to ourselves that the responsiveness is
materially taken away. Here are preserved
the broken jar from which our Lord poured
wine at the marriage at Cana, one of the
thorns that composed his crown, a little ivory
cross on which was fastened a mere splinter
from the veritable cross; st. Ursula's right
leg bone. bone from the left hand of some
renowned bishop, tooth from another
monks jaw, and link from the chain which
st. Paul dragged about as a prisoner. II our
readers doubt these things we can only refer
them to the solemn priests who related the
account tous. Doubtless if there was ever a
misgiving as to their genuineness the pious
brothers have told their story until they be-
lieve it. The church records show these sa-
cred trusts to have been in its custody for
seven hundred years. We are ready to give
credence to most of this, since in the early
low Of ho oh m
Importance was attached to outward sym
bols Of piety, that the earth was ransacked
with herculean efforts and sacrifice Of life, to
get possession of relies and to foster hero
worship, as one principal means of estab-
fishing the influence of the church through
out ChriStendom.
The church of the Jesuits is one of the
most beautiful in coloring and mosaics. 1t
stands ON the site, and embodies part of an
old Roman Basilica. We visited several art
galleries. In one we were highly delighted
with some modern paintings from Dussel-
dorf. Among them was THE Steppes" by
Shryer, full of the spirited action so charac-
teristlc of his work; another of a monk
Tasting Wine" we almost enyied the old
fellows happiness, alone in cellar smack
ing his lips over his glass; one cattle piece
by Volks, whose Attorney cattle can hardly
be eXcelled. 1t is rare to find painter who
produces such fine atmospheric effects, and
also can paint such lively animals. There
was little canvas about ten inches square
and valued at two thousand marks. This
was simple picture of Julie, in which were
his fayorte game rooster, few hens and
ducks. One other, which may be familiar
as photograph to our friends, of Princess
Louise, the mother of the present Emperor
William. Lovely as the small photograph
is, one can get no idea of the stately grace OF
the figure as she steps from stair. The
beauty of the face, set off by the richness OF
the royal attire of velvet and ermine combine
to make it most charming portrait.
In one department were hundreds of relig-
ious pictures, representing the history and
legends of the church in the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries, which are too cheap
and disgusting for any decent collection
APoLLINARIs SPRING.
We made an excursion down the Rhine to
Newerabr to see the famous Apollinaris
Spring; but it was not to be seen, and fol
ity of a janitor's face did not relax at the
sight of mark. Afterwards falling in with
German, who, while rendering his term OF
military service, was stationed near this
spring, we learned why the works are closed
and the matter kept such profound secret.
1t is distance and carbonic gas artifcially in
fused, which lends to this water it's charm
and sparkle. 1t is a small, ordinary spring,
possessing no effervescent property, but in
every respect inferior to Poland Summit, OF
the White Mountain springs; but valuable
here, as Europe is scantily supplied with
good drinking water 1t seems quite impos-
sible that this fount can supply the mex
haustible stock that goes all over the world
Like the Settler and several bottled waters
which travellers think they drink with i'm
punity, the deficiency could be supplied from
any convenient source, and filtered and sub
jected to the compression of carbonic gas
Speaking of this German, reminds us of
his intense interest in American institutions
which offer to any young man the opportu-
nifty of forming and carrying out a purpose
in life. He appreciated the fact that the ar
my was the curse of this country, compelling
every man to render his share Of military
service, either personally, by substitution,
or by payment of money. This drives many
who have no way but by actual service, tt
meet the obligation, away from their homes
Such cannot return, except by paying dearly
for their delinquencies, and FORGETTING many
rights of citizenship. Many are disabled il
actual service, and for the loss of limbs o.
health they receive no remuneration from
their paternal government except license
to beg living in the streets. In spite o.
these constant depletions of their sources OF
reinforcement, the army must be sustained
In times of war the women have fillet
the breaches on the farms, ostensibly to earn
bread for the children, but also to supper
their gallant soldiers. In the short intervals
of peace, the men find it quite convenient t.
have help-meets in the field, and their faith
full wives learn they have established an un
wise precedent; and it is no easy matter tt
cast their yokes ON other shoulders. We saw
women wading knee deep in mud to tuG
heavy baskets of coal on their heads from
vessel stranded on the beach to teams on tn
shore.
DRACHENFELS.
We crossed the river to Drachenfels, owe