New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-10-03
QUEER OLD FOOD.
. BooK ABOUT BY-GONE KITCHENS.

a BOOK ABDUL Dl-OONE hlitil+>Nc'
Old COOKERY BOOKS AND ANCIENT CUISINE
BY W. CAREw HAzLTr. 16mo. PIP 2'I George
Mr. Hazl,tt has gathered together and there has
been printed in the dainty Book-Lovers Library a
mass of curious matter about Old cookery books
and cooking. But this matter is ill-arranged aud
not loss i'll edited, and the little book is lisappont
ing TO such az realize the greatness OF the
opportunity which has been suffered to escape. A
book about ancient cookery Is indeed needed.
Whose desires knowledge on the subject must
explore many tones and eXpend much time IN the
search 1t Is scattered about, and no man has yet
collected it. Mr. Hazlitt's chief service here is
perhaps his contribution to photography OF
cookery books. He also destroys cherished
legend by demonstrating that Mrs. Glassc did not
say in her cookery book, " First catch your hare
Further lie gives vexatiously sketchy account
of ancient cookery, and in this account he betrays
\ curious misconception of his function. For
again and again he refers the read,r to this or that
authority (often reconcile and difficult OF access
instead Of conveying from the authorities the IN
formation itself chapter which instead OF
citations gives references only, is Barmec:de
Feast melting the resentment OF the reader
Indeed. one cannot but think how differently
Thackeray, for example, would have proceeded In
Mr. Hazlitt's place How he would have expatlated
unon the venerable old dishes, upon the bag
puddngs the wardens pies, the venison pasties' the
frumenty, the sack and other possets, wherewith
our ancestors sustained themselves How, as we
nav perceive by those small samples of kindred
work which he entitled Memorials Of Command
Ting he would have reyelled in the sDendor OF
the great banuuets given by medi9val princes and
peers How judiciously and with what an air of
cosmopolitan tolerance he would have discussed the
merits OF roast whale and porDoise pie by the
way Mr. Hazitt, speaking of the cetacean. seems
-doubtless by inadyertence-to imply that it was
customary for our ancestors to serve mp whole
whales He says, [" The cook either roasted 1t, ana
served il up on tho spit or boiled it and sent 1t In
| with peasr Fancy a whale being brought III on
| the spill
And there are things Mr.. Hazlitt has not a due
certitude concerning as for instance the culinary
use of the hedgehog OF which he says, doubtfulIy.
q believe that the hedgehog is frequently used to
this day By country folk both here and abroad,
| and in India" " Believe" indeed Does he not
| know that the gypsies possess special recipe for
| the cooking OF tho hedgehog and that thus
nrepared the prIcky brute Is dish for the gods I
| Mr. Hazlit: should read his Lavcngro." AS 1T is
he has only succeeded in furnishing some pregnant
hnts Tor further development Ii Is evident that
| no man should undertake work OF this KIND wuo
has no. So IN a special aptitude therefor as
| Thackeray and Brillat Savarin and Charles Lamb
to no little sXtent, possessed Inc man WHO "Tolo
the history OF roast pig had'a genuine feeling for
good eating. His description OF the cracking on a
sucking pig is masterpiece. He could have done
this thing we'll and 50 could Thackeray, whose
culinary ernditon was extensive and whose love OF
a good dinner was a source of innocent pride and
satisfaction 70 him all his lie.
But to write approximately of the kitchen one
must be in sympathy with its purposes and well
informed as to ITS ritual. When Beckford, the
author of "Vathek." was in Andalusia lie visited
a monastery where much good feeding was carried
on. and he has left IA description of that kitchen
which will perhaps outlive his own famous story
Rut Mr. Hazlitt has not the true sentiment he
deals with questions of eating and drinking IN a
| mare Dryasdust way He cannot impart to hi'
text the subtle flavor when renders many o.
Ibackerays dscourses cognute topics posltlV ely
| appetizing. No doubt the English palate two OF
| three centuries ago was coarse; 1t IL not very
delicate even But 1t Is interesting to observe
that the strange habit Of nil ing sweet and savorl
things which formerly obtained has survived II
| Germany and IL is open TO lnuu Jury whether IN
custom in some parts OF this country, OF mNlni
mol.isses with pork, is direct survival from th'
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, or simply
manifestation Of certain style OF civilization
This and many other questions are suggested b,
Mr. Hazlitts book, but none OF thom Is answered
The typographical appearance oil the volume Is al
that could be desired.