Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-05-12


DIANA ''El Fenix," "La RusiaD
milkman driving his COW up to custom
ers' doors, and there milking her INTO
tnelT cans, beyond all suspicion OF adul-
teration; train of mules, each ones
mead tied to his predecessors tail, thus
drawing 1t out to its full length, in quite
novel manner; living donkey with
only feet and nose visible between great
Planners OF hay and vegetables; soldiers
and civil officials, likewise in uniform,
everywhere
>, soon we were deposited at the Hotel
FasaJe, and rooms assigned us by the
courteous manager just in time for the
II o'clOck-only coffee and fruit being
procurSble up to that hour.
THIS MEAL LIKE OTHERS is TAKEN
almost al fresco, the dining room being
on the street, and nearly quite open,
winch amuses me with street panorama
between the courses. 1t has, however,
the disadvantage OF exposing one to the
opportunities OF lottery ticket sellers,
VINO positively swarm in this sland OF
Tomorrow" The frequent beggar,
especially one strappng, very dirty
Albanian, in national costume, was rout-
ca by the device of inquIrlng slowly, in
English, for news Of has entire family, be-
ginning with the great-grandmother
nhen he would get tired and 20 away.
however, the waiter speedily rids you
OF ali such intruders, including the more
agreeable tloWer-merchant, with his mag
nlncent display of roses, gardenias and
wax flowers. We found the cookery at
the Hotel Pasaie excellent, in the Cuban
manner. For those who do not like sea-
soDlng OF onion, garlic or saffron, there
are delicious fruits and fish. This hotel,
Ike all houses here, is built with view
10 warm weather. Amazingly lofty cell
lngs, marble floors, many windows reach
Ing to the ground, and without glasses or
neaVy curtains, combine to make it al
ways pleasantly cool indoors. The pri-
Vate houses, whose owners show strang-
ers through with most willing courtesy,
are built also in this manner, with the al
dltlon, sometimes, OF a rOOf-garden, COM
! mandlng a fine view and breeze. The
front rooms OF the PasaJe look upon Prado
street, with its beautiful avenues of laurel
trees. We were compelled, however.
TO learn some severe Spanish
/ expressions to apply to the
millions of sparrOws which inhabit
those trees, and wake one at dayOreak
with their incessant noise. After them
the military band begins, and an officer
drills company of 'vOluntariOs.@ Lis
tenlng from drOwsv recumbent position
1t would sound something like this:
Senores caballeros, atencion! Shoulder
arms-when you are quite ready. Move
up little; but do not hurry yourselves.
NOW march! senores caballerOs, but the
sun b warm, and you may take your
time. Then the band again, and they
move of in quick shutting trot due,
no doubt, to their absurdly high-heeled
boots, which would certainly cause a mu-
tiny in an American regiment.
Both men and women have exceedingly
small feet mere, appearing still smaller
from use OF the uncomfortable French
heel. Bad pavements and cheap vehicles
combine to make walking arare feat. AS
for the orders given above, we may have
misunderstood them, owing to an imper-
fectknowledge of the language.
ON HOLY THURSDAY WE WENT
to the Cathedral, fine old stone edifice,
with picturesque belfry, disclosing a
chime of bells, from quite colossus to
merely baby one. Inside no pews
black-eyed dOns, and beautiful dusky
ladies with mantillas kneellng
on the marble pavement, or
taking chairs brought in by
their servants. Presently a clank OF
spurred heels and swords in the vestibule.
and in marched the Captain General and
staff, part of whose duty 1t is to attend
all services during Holy Week, not TO be
absolutely reverent, it appears, for span
ISL etiquette which prohibits a lady re-
ceiving gentleman alone. did not pre-
vent eight or ten officers st
time from surrounding some
specially pretty senorita at her
prayers aud staring her out Of cOun-
tenance. This, it seems, is very delicate
compliment. In the afternoon the same
officers, also the marines and civil officials,
were to be met at all the various
churches. On this occasion every body
walked, for the law prohibits vehicles run
ming from noon on Holy Thursday until al
ter Good Friday. On Friday the bells tOlled
all day, and the very tiue bands played
funeral marches, Notwithstanding which
the crowds OF people, hurrying through
tue streets to church, gave them an ami
mated appearance. In the afternoon
there was a procession, which the
courteous attention OF the American
Consul, Mr.. Williams, gave US a fine
opportunity of seeing. At night-alsO
Saturday eVening-there was a delight
full orchestral concert in the Parqie de
Isabella Legunda, where all the world
goes in full dress, adjOurning afterwards
to La Louvre" or some other cafe to
imbibe very mild iced drinks. OF these,
innocent though they are of intOXicatiOn,
you NAV take too mucb-a word to the
wise. In Holy Week no opera could, of
course, be heard. But we made a gallant
attempt to see bull-hght. With souls
nerved for possible horrors, and armed
with Vinaigrettes for the ladies', we drove
out resolutely TO the Plaza de TOros.
AS WE ARRIVED MATADOR
complete went in before us. escorted by
street Arabs, gay jacket and sash, sill
YER buttons, black WOolly hat, chignon,
pig-tail and all. Wild excitement when
out comes our Spanish friend. ''No bull
fight. Bull no good" With a pang OF
surprise at his cOndescending to Ameri-
can slang, mingies citation at our escape
from gore. Only one member,
generally considered the most
kindly, develops an unexpected
bloodthirsty spirit. He is disappointed;
he wanted to see = few bulls and horses
perhaps men--slaughtered. so, by way
OF compensation, we drive 20 a cemetery,
whence there is q fine view OF city and
beautiful surrounding country, the Cam
DO Santo, called san Antonio Chi
duito. There are curious under
ground inches for bodies here,
somewhat in the Roman fashion !;
also a new mOrtuary chapel, with beau
tiful frescoes, and a picture OF the Last
Day, warranted TO terrify the most hard
ened reprObate. Any family afflicted
with very reckless member is advised
TO bring him here. One sight OF this pic
ture will freeze the blood IN his veins,
aud may effect "A lasting reformation. The
drive h0meward along the boulevard by
the waters edge is most delightful, afford
ing peeps at the bay and forts; children