The Palatka daily news. (Palatka, Fla.) 1884-1888, 1886-11-19

A Matter OF Experimentation Perfumes
are Gathered-oIanner CT Making Some
of the Popular Brands-Combining
Original Odors.
You haven't cultivated nose said a
manufacturer Of perfumes in large store
down town 70 a customer, who admitted that
he could not remember that his nose had ever
been subjected to any particularly inyigorat-
ing process, but he asserted that he had per
feet confidence in his ability to pick ont just
what he wanted.
THAT IS the trouble with almost every one"
continued the dealer, "who attempts to select
perfume when not used to it. That man
who has just left here win not he satisfied
with his purchase the next time Ec takes
smell Of 1t LecauSe ne VIII not find it to be
what he expected. After u nose that las not
been raised in the business smells four or five
samples of cologne, the flavor of each will
linger in the Hostrils and then an inferior
and poorer odor, if introduced to these linger-
ing scents, in almost every case viii form q
pleasing combination that is thought to be
satisfactory. For the time being it will be,
but aftcrward the compoundcr Of colognes
viii b. called fraud. The sense of smell IS
widely different in individuals, and the i'm
asinati"n helps along wonderfully.
WHAT ACUTE NOSES CAN Do.
A. q matter Of experiment / have placed
the sam" Kind Of cologne in twelve bottles
labeled differently, and have had people take
smell of all the bottles and detect the re-
sembiaurr of each one to the flower mem
toned On The label Again have seen noses
So acute that they would put out from a com
biuatinn pt 0l4rs each ingredient and rarely
would amy he missed. This is "a wonderful
thing. hut the nose can Ie trained To do 1t,
and the cologne maker must have the faculty
II order 10 make up any kind OF cologne from
q given Sample. This explains the N, thod by
which the famous C"l"Gnc~ are initiated and a
dealer can hardly start a new brand on the
market before every ono in the business IS
making the same thing.
The best perfumes are made from flowers
The effort that Is being made TO extract per-
fumes from petroleum and other things
VIII prove abortive, rs they can never
eIUal the dei!cacy of the odor Of a
genuine flower. The amount Of cologne
made IN America Is enormous, but it does
not approach the quantity manufactured
ii Eurup" where its use i well nigh uni
verSal In this country perfumes are made
from the original flowers only on a small
5, ale, AMI even then it Is too expensive TO 90
into general competition on such basis Tho
olors are nearly all imported IN the shapes OF
oils and essences, and from these rs a base the
.ologncS are made. In many foreign coun-
tries whole communities are supported by
cultivating and gathering flowers. The cut
flowers are usually placed in large watts
upon which a proportinuato amount of
water j. poured. After it has stood for n
certain time the process OF evaporation is
FASTENED 10y heat, and the oil in the flowers
passes into vapor. This IS then condensed,
and the oil is found floating on the water.
The oil seems - contain the aromatic priuci-
pie of plants. To make essences from the oil
it is usually mixed with alcohol Some of the
oils are volatile that they cannot he gath
cred III this manner. They viii fly off in the
process of di-tiilatiuu with water. and tho
delicate suggest ions of sweetness are lost To
obviate this a heavy or fixed oil i employed.
1t is usually tn" finest grade # beef suct This
by heat Is converted into a liquid state, and
the flowers are put into it. The odor of the
plant Will pass into the fixed oil and Toe held n
prisoner. Some alcohol IS also used in this
method, and it is in the shape of beef suet
paste laden with the fragrance Of many beau
tiful flowers that much Of our perfume Is inn
ported.
HOW PERFUMES ARE GATHERED.
The famous altar Of roses IS made from
the Rosa Dama~cenu. which grows like a
weed i'll Smyrna and III some parts Of Tur-
key and France, though the growth is COM
parativclv small III the latter country. Tho
natives of these places collect this oil IN a
simple manner The roses ara placed in
water, and after decomposition sets in the oil
floats on the surface and it is absorbed 10y cot
ton balls deity dipped INTO the liquid. Tho
cotton under pressure gives up this oil, which
is bottled and scaled. \ bushcl Of flowers
will produce only few drops of oil The
genuine i the most expensive oil i'll the mar
ket, and worth So an ounce. 1t IS adulter-
ated with oil of ThodiUm, wax and other sub
stances, and the price IS arranged to suit the
purchaser. The strength of this oil makes it
siclleniug in its natural state. The aduItera-
tion has reached such high state of pcrfec-
tion that even the most expert are deceived
by it.
"PatchoulI j. made from a natural plant
growing III great abundance III the Malay
islands, ami i a great fIvorite as n perfume.
There Is a growing demand now for lavender
water. 1t Is made 10y mixing rose and orange
waters with the oil of lavender, and has n re-
fined and pleasant rs well aS refreshing oGor
The English oil Of lavender Is the best that is
on the market, and besides being used rs a
perfume IS Il favorito article in bakeries as a
flavor for cakes and fancy products. It Is Il
high stimulant and efficient aI To digestion
until the system becomes used to it. and then
it is liable 70 breed one OF the worst forms Of
dyspepsia The lavender shrub and the jes-
samine plant are cultivated t. u large extent
in England and France FOR this industry
The genuine heliOtropc Is not as fine an odor
as the imitation The latter i known as the
white hcliotrope and is made from combina-
ton of violet and vanilla, and has a soporItic
tendency ii breathed for any length of time
Bergamot, which with musk forms the
staple perfume OF the coIored population
IS comparatively cheap oil. Il Is made
from a small species OF lemoa, the best
quality of which grows il the island OF
Sicily, and Is cultivated specially for this
purpose. The fruit Is picked while hard and
uuripe, and it takes about 100 10 produce a
pint of oil under pressure. Bcrgamot is q
Slight irritart and It i, said viii raise nair
on a bald head The distinguishing mari, OF
the tube rose i strength, while the violet is
light and pure. The vcrbcna was once
great favorite, hut it is now rarely called for.
The rose geraniIm makes an elegant per