Evening star., 1886-10-30
Provisions Of Gayety for the Coming
winter.

WINTER.
GOOD TASTE AND GOOD SENSE IN THE CHOICE
OBJ DRESS sFABRICs-THE ETHIcs OF SILK Axu
wooL-MoRNING AND EVENING pREssEs-
TEA AsowNs-PRINcEssEs,A &C.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK Oct 2eth
All the indications point to a very gay winter
tor 1SS6-7, for business 10 properous and ii
Is not presidential" year. But lust now
gayety is distributed, and fashion has congre-
gated at Lenox, at Tuxedo Park, Atlantic City
and ether resorts. before crystalizing for the
season" in New York. Tuxedo Park il the
latest fashionable fad in the way of an
a1tumnal stopping place-one cannot say rest
ing place, for fashions and fashionable peo-
pie are never allowed to rest. 1t is .
lovely spot on the Erie road, an hour and a halfs
ride from New York, between five and six
thousand acres in extent, with q pretty lake,
an elegant club house and fourteen cottages,
all told. Mr.. Pierre LorilIard has already
spent million and a half dollars upon it
tthe cottages are furnished as well as builr,
and thus a new swell" center Is established
Tuxedo Park is to Lenox what the Metropoli-
tan opera house is to the old Academy of
Music. 1t is the half protest, half overflow of
the younger exclusives against the exclusive
ness of the older occupants OF the territory;
and like most scions they outdo the old stock
upon its own lines.
The difficulty about shutting the world out OF
any where is that natural kinship asserts ITSELF
and very soon that which is shut out seems
more desirable than that which Is shut in. At
present Tuxedo Park is an idylL The Orange
mountains form glory round about it; pretty
girls and bicyciists inhabit IL; Mrs. James Brown
Potter lends her picturesque presence to- IL be-
fore going abroad Tor the winter; and the ball
that was given there two weeks ago put a stamp
of correctness and briliancy upon the social
life. Cottages at Tuxedo Park are not intended
for permanent homes-only for two or three
months occupancy in the autumn, after nav
ing spent Inc summer AT Newport or Bar Har-
bor- You go there, as one of the occupants OF u
cHtass remarkea, 10 wear OUT youn snoe oia nf
the Tuxedo Park old clothes than new ones
elsewhere. Not that they dress IN SILKS and
Velvets and laces, at least not every day.
WOODEN FABRICS.
There is a widespread idea that fashionable
women and those who can afford silks, never
wear anything else. Never was a greater mis-
take Really fashionable women, especially
young women, only wear silk on occasions;
their outdoor dress, aud especially walking
dress, Is wool, lined with silk, perhaps touched
up with velvet but more frequently pure wool
with lining oi silk which does not show.
A silk dress worn ordinarily and at a country
house would look so out ol place that the wearer
would be set down AS ignorant and inexperi-
of gray or black is moro frequently fine CASH
mere with silk than all silk satin, AS
formerly. Wool Is not for a season, ii has come
to stay. 1t is put TO serviceaDle uses to hch il
Is adapted. For outdoor wear it is Infinitely
superior To silk; for the atmospheric currents
have Tree play, in it aud through Ii. 1t puts us
in relation with them instead OF shutting US
out from them ike silk. the reaction in favor
OF wool. and It's restoration to nigh place in
the general economy OF womeus dress, is q
sanitary blessing
A question which needs solving and which
underwear next 10 the skin. There is no climate
in which some sort OF wooler. garments cannot
be advaDtageousiy worn, but young women
and society women avoid IL as much possi-
bic, often altogether, because IL interferes with
the wearing Oh tine fashionable low necks and
short sleeves, or no sleeves. There are vigorous
young girls who declare they can stand ii; that
the cold does not make II particle OF difference
TO them; that they do not need fianpel or
merino, or gauZe, or wool OF any kind; anu that
in fact they possess a skin sensitive they
cannot bear the touch OF wool. This OF course
involves "a contradiction which they do Dot per-
celve. \ skin So sensitive ought TO be protected,
and in time they suffer from the abS.nce OF
proper and uniform clothing.
Until recently there Was the excuse of average
coarsensss, want of adaptabl1ity and want OF
variety in the underwear woven or made for
women. There is still room IOr Improvement,
but there Is no lack OF variety The difficulty is
= want of graceful ior1n and finish in the
heavier and complete woven garments and the
Inadequacy OF the pretty little vests-withOut
drawerS-Oi woven or knitted silk Or silk and
wool, to meet the requirements. A skIn-Iike
garment OF soft wool covering the body is a
luxury which can only be appreciated by ex-
perimentai know ledge of its virtues. 1t is at
once u medium aud an absorbent. 1t should be
changed frequently, and il preserves all other
clothing from contact with the skin. It pre-
serves an equ Atty OF temperature and main
tains equaoie relations between the body and
the outside world. Il is cieaniy and exercises a
gentle influence which Is better Ielt than de-
scribed; but is tranQuiizDg and benefi-
cial. Now that nervous diseases are so COM
mon, dtt the Causes OF disturbance ought To be
carefully weighed, all remedial agents given
due consideration. and any one who assists to
give WOODEN underwear Tor women the soft
ness, lghtness, and grace of form demanded in
accordance with other portions OF their attire
Will do nIS race service.
o A lt:trk he
degrees OF round and square neck; the low, the
medium and the high. Now We have only the
high and low, unless IN silk, hand knit; and in
average Styles no square neck forms AT all. The
Jaeger" woolen uuuergarments-whch fully
had been introduced into this country-are be-
coming u rage with men; but many women
object 10 them as tney were originally made
In the pretty, natural tint OF the wooi-tnat the
manufacturers are spelling them and DESTROY
ing tneir individuality by making them white
Much travel and the sort OF Interchange that
has become common between our wonen of 40
c,ety ana those u Europe has established the
low bodice anu snort sleeve or sleeve as the
regulation iorin ior iuli evening dress. espe-
ciaiiy Ior young and young married women as
decisiyely as the "swailow-taiT coat is de ritier
for Inen. High fashion is confined to q few:
therefore niEe-tenths OF the world may live and
die without ever knowing in what IL consists
But WITHIN the charmed circle in America-at
least III the great cities-the observance OF all
the lMmorailIIeS oil dress has become as strict
as IN the sayest capitals OF Europe.
Where the fashions come from that become
fashion IS Always a question. Formerly IL was
often from some accident or caprice on the part
% a noted or conspicuous person. Now the
subject Has become too large a one, and cOrre-
lation OF forces 10 required 10 affect il. Popu-
larry, fashion periodicals are considered author
Ties. but they are quite secondary in the minds
New York modIs to ideas derived from
Worth or PInsat 5 latest. Leading dressmakers
take some of tie French fashion Journals for
their own benefit, but they do not often show
them To their customers; never with the pur-
pose of taking models from them; publication
mas made them TOO common" Every one
},nr
sketches oI tine models received from abroad OF
which no two among any number from i've TO
nlty wiiiae alike.
These outline ngures preserve the pure form
anu are more suggestive as a base 10 work from
thsaii the dressed-up designs loaded with TRIM
lining aud drapery, which all look alike and the
sstine this year last.
EVOLUTION OF FASHIONS
New fashions are of slow growth. 1t Is very
rarely tnat any revolution in fashion oc-
ours, the conventional mind does not admit of
it. The High Priestess in any ordinary temnie
OIL fasnlOn-lnat - ~ say, a leading ,nodIsfa-
while ali Tue time the lookouL Ior ids.S "a
very careful not 10 adopt any which NAV seem
0NfFe or loo e>tnetlc. Ihe woman of fashinn
sometimes considers ugly thing adorahIa.
but sue Is shy OF Whatever may have "A Bohem
Ian or professional" flavor.
y recently arrived English actress annearad
the tneater one evening, in which she W..
goIug to play, in a long cloak OF dark nInsh
lined with old gold satin and bakers can 10
ma ten, above an aureoie of lovely, fair hair
She was seen BY society lady, ho had iust
purchased an imported cloak very much like
Il, al cost OF four hundred dollars She
Immediately took il back and had liz cut nm
into u small. undistinguishabie and ndisSin
guished garment.