Morning journal and courier., 1886-01-11


 opening in fan shape A long faille panier is taken diagonally across the plush skirt and fastened very high to show the skirt the side. I he waist opens in bretelle shape over back and front piece of plush, and is pointed below Bands of embroidery sur round the lower part of the waist and the points, and are also taken up the sides of the plush front and back pieces. The faille sleeves open on the outside and on the mid dle of the arm, over tight plush sleeve, and are joined on the outside by flaps of beige passementerie. Embroidered bands are very costly, but not many of these are required for dress trimming. Bands of silk to match the toilet may be embroidered in various de- signs and then beaded Many ladies do this work. Neutral tints most employed for the purpose. as they correspond with all colors.
 There have been so many attractive novel, ties made in Paris this winter for waist trim mings that in spite of the prevailing fashion of plain English-cut dresses waists are rapid ly being trimmed in this way. English dresses have some marked advantages; they are convenient and elegant, but they are plain. There are in use a number of fchus plastrons, and neokties, which will meet all the requirements of this change of fashion. Neck trimmings for visiting purposes are of white or colored crape. Some of them sist of a kind of straight collar tnade of plaited crape, which is taken above the collar 
 vat bow. Sometimes there is a TOW of beads around the border of the collar. The num- Der of plaits of which these neck trimmings consist form narrow bands which serve for many purposes. Another style is a small flat piece of fine lace with narrow plaitings on the sides. The lack-lustre of the crape is relieved by mother of-pea1 buttons placed among the plaits. A band of muslin rather more than an inch deep is used to sew the plaits against This work should be very neatly done. For young ladies there are crape plastrons in all color, which, when placed on the waist of plain dress, make a pretty evening toilet. The plastron usually consists of a straight collar of plaited crepe de Chine. A quantity of soft crape falls loose from the collar, is draw together on the lower part of the waist, and is then fastened near the hips under satin ribbon loops. These trimmings are arranged according to the figure of the wearer. Puffed articles are naturally very becoming to slight and deli cate figures, while stout persons should cling to strait, fiat trim inning. Guimpes of lace or some soft tissue are gathered the neck against vide band, which also sur rounds the neck Another design for guimpe is to have it crossed in fchu style and fastened to the waist by small flap of goods. Plastrons of velvet, embroidered silk, psssementerie in open work, are used. There also front pieces for wear dark-colored walking dresses of tulle, lace, For gauge.
 A walking visiting suit is of leopard coloFed winter etamine and worsted lace of the same shade. The underskirt is of silk, covered with lace. The etamine tunioue forms draped apron raised very high on the right side, where it forms 8 sort of she'll shaped trimming. The back breadth falls straight, and is fastened to the lace skirt. The ''chaEoine" mantle is of black velvet The front and back pieces short. They bsV flcb11 tTiI mo of ri terie taken down ill point, with a passe- menterie ornament in the Esen.er. A jet epaulet is over the shoulder. Around the garment is fringe of the same. The velvet collar is embroidered with jet. The hat matching this suit is 8 velvet capote with full crown. In the center in front is bunch of plumes and jet aggregate.
 One of the showiest Parisian ball dresses made this season is of light pink taffetas and tulle dotted with crystal beads. The skirt is of heavy pink taffetas. The front part or apron is covered with illusion worked with crystal beads. The illusion is draped in tiny, wavy folds, which turn in different directions Down either side of the apron are punches of reeds covered with silver tin sel and beads. These ornaments extend from the lower part of the skirt up the sides like quilIes, and cover the starting point of plaited pink taffetas drapery which terminates under the lower part of the waist The lat ter is cut low in bretelle style, and pointed OH the end, while it is covered, with the ex ception of the center in front, with draped beaded tulle. Down this plain part is a bunch of reeds with their starting point ar ranged to form the point of the waist. The calyx of the reeds consists of ornaments in applique beaded work. The square train mantle is covered with beaded tulle arranged in soft wavy drapeTies. The sleeves are made of band of goods and 8 very small piece of tulle. On the shoulder is ornament of
 ! rI1 T1,o ,frr "a in the hair matches the ornaments. This dress can also be made without a train by dispensing with the train mantle and replac- ing it by straight plaited drapery of pink taffetas. Over this is another plating of beaded tulle. It may either fall straight or be slightly draped.
 Another ball dress is of faille and English lace The false skirt, which is covered with faille forms plsited panels in front and on the sides. These side plaitings- are quite back on the skirt, and the part between the paintings is plain. The unique consists of a long lace point on either side falling over the plain part of the skirt The long train has a lace f1ounce placed little above the border The faille waist forms round low neck in front and is pointed in the back The lace ruffle around the low neck forms jabot down the front of the waist.
 Two kinds of astrakhan are now in vogue in Paris. One has long wavy surface, while 
 serves for trimmings on outer garments, dresses, and hats, and whole jackets are made of it. Cloth suits may have skirts bordered with deep band of astrakhan and jackets trimmed to match. Jackets ef th1s fur are not as costly sealskin and are very stylish, particularly for young girls They wear with this garment the small turban- shaped hat called the Bulgarian. This IS something quite new, and consists oi black velvet plaitt crown, which is full and higii, and brim sitting tightly to the forehead and covered with astrakhan, seslskin, or sable. The fur is generally chosen to form a con trast with the color of the hair. For light golden hair astrakhan is suitable, for black hair sable is more appropriate, and sealskin is more becoming to all. The turbans are trimmed with fancy birds or with dogs head. The latter is odd and much prettier than bird.
 Visiting and theater bonnets are still in the capote shape. Very young ladies may wear the large mbrandt hat of black felt, with 8 broad brim, raised on the left side and covered with jet beads. This is trimmed with bunch of plumes with the tops falling over the front of the hat. Among the pretty capotes seen lately in Paris is the s'Charbon- niere," covered with lace taken tightly over the crown, which is high and fiat. The brim is raised and shows the top of the head. It is also covered with lace and adorned with tiny jet clovers. A cording of this jetwork IS around the crown and on the edge of the brim. The raised brim is lined with colored velvet. The trimming consists of loops of ribbon velvet in the shade of the lining and @ peacock of jet beads. The strings are of ribbon velvet. Another capots has the crown covered with Oriental embroidery of a pink silk ground The brim consists of ruching of pink velvet and another of beige velvet under this. The bows and strings are of beige ribbon velvet. Among the loops is snsil Pigss n with out spread wings.