Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-07-03

or simplicity as well as convenience. But
they are not universal. They are consid-
cred suitable for the young and for simple
country styles, and are supplemented by
enormous bows and wide sashes. The
differences are often made by a loop or
touch, taking in something here, letting 1t
out there, and, above all, diherentlatlng
1t from similar style.
/ The ann OF the dressmaker without
genius is to initiate tine commonplace.
! The ann of the dressmaker with genius ls
TO depart from the commonplace and i'm
| part originality to all her productions.
| Here Is field for our girls far more
| worthy OF their powers than painting
plaques or pals, and, what is better still,
vastly more remuneratlVe. Why should
! the rlch cream of this occupation be
skinned of by those VINO do not possess
! half the capacity? A girl who had studied
| drawing, VINO understood the anatomy OF
the arm, would never threaten paralysis
| by cutting straight, tight sleeve, nor
would she consider the foundation form
either as whole or in part-as some
thing dependent upon fashion and subject
TO its caprices. The anatomy of the figure
being always the same the outlines OF its
covering should he the same, the changes
and new departures being always in the
line OF detail. 1t is upon this basis OF
essential principles and in connection
with drawing that dressmaking should be
taught 10 girls in our public schools, not
embarrassed by the minutia Of changing
and iluctuating fashion.
THE VEST
is protean in the number of shapes it as
sumes; and looking at it from general
and inexperienced point of view. the diff
ferent styles seem to be without slguiti-
canoe, and to be common to every Occa-
sion and purpose. But this is not by any
means the case. The plain vest is for the
street; the full habit vest for cotton morn
ing gowns; the loose, dropping "llOliere"
vest is reserved for children and tea
gowns. The unwritten laws with regard
to the detail OF clothes are now more rigid
than the written ones.
The fresh vest of the season is the
pretty, clean looking little vest of white
plque, fastened with small, round pearl
buttons and worn with modest, I'M
trimmed costumes of gray or coppery
| brown tweed, the jacket close fitting,
closed at the throat and the skirt plated,
with striped or killed panels, or perhaps
| open and united by cords over the plait-
ing al the side. These costumes are ex-
celient for travelling, and seem to have
| largely taken the place of twilled flannel.
| They are usually made with three vests
one white, one buff, one OF the material.
Hats are not now made to match, they
| are too high, and would be too heavy.
| Dark straw or straw to match can be
| found readily, and is more convenient.
A material somewhat lighter in tex
| ture, but dark or neutral IN color, and
| very serYiceable, consists of wool checked
| in almost invisible lines and very small
| squares with linen. 1t is soft, but firm in
texture, light in weight and inexpensive.
only soc. per yard. 1t may be made up
with plain Saline or Rurah plaitiugs and
| ,ull vest, aud does not require skirC
! lining unless as a foundation. There is
! not the same objection to the introduced lion
OF the linen into the body OF the wool as
to the mixture of silk and wool, aud it
reduces cost and weight while not i'm
pairing It's useful qualities. 1t is usual
TO make up this material with PLAIN
Saline or surah for plaitings, and vest in
the shade Of the linen liues, always
darker than the body part of the fabric,
but it could be just as well completed by
plain vests of pique or wash leather and a
few bronzed buttons put on in twos or
threes.
COOL CoLoRs.
/ Cool effects are now sought for. The
fiery reds and brilliant yell0ws have given
place to grey blues. mushroom browns,
pale ceru, tinted white and lilac. Gray
and lilac, and gray and white are a remI-
niscence of the styles Ofhalf acentury ago,
which have been revived occasionally
since and are always suggestive OF the
fairness and sweetness, the freshness
and GOODNESS of the young sum-
mer. Ladies who 20 to the country need
only thin tweed or checked wool
couple of cotton print or
Bingham dresses for morning, a lilac
muslin and linen lawn for afternoon wear,
and half worn silk for Sundays and oc-
casiOns, to be we'll fitted out so far as
dresses are concerned. For the rest, one
black or brown and one white straw hat,
black ticbu, Il gray buster or ulster, a
small sun umbrella, a pongee parasol, a
Japanese fan, pair of black jersey mitts.
sack for cool mornings, one pair OF kid
and one pair of silk and linen gloves, and
the whole outfit is complete al q cost OF
500 or less, if the lady is her own dress
maker.
THE COST OF A COTTON GOWN.
Very good and pretty materials can now
be obtained at very moderate prices. pro-
vided they are not the novelties" of the
season. But fashionable making brings
them up to high figures. Nor are the high
charges confined to importing mOdistes
and dressmakers upon the exclusive side
streets giving upon Filth or Madison ave-
nues. Less exalted persOnages-that IL,
dressmakers occupying rooms near Third
ayenue-support children, and perhaps
husbands, on the results of their labor
and that o the girls they employ, charg-
ing SIS 10 SO for making a suit or silk
dress. and $40 10 $l5 for the sim plest cot
tor. In addition to these prices are the
materials used in making-thread, silk
ii-,4 the like-and a variety OF fresh
AID costly hnlshlngs and "touches,"
which a dressmaker always
assures her customers are essential, and
yhiCh add an important sum to the total,
Even at these prices it is not easy to get
dressmakIng done, everyone being
crushed" with work. 81 expect you are
quite discouraged" remarked one OF these
Third avenue" dressmakers to Gus
toner whose materials had been in hand
over three months. ''Well," she con-
tinued, IL am discouraged myself. one
of my best girls has been sick all the
season, and / have advertised five times
and only got one answer. You see we
have no sources of supply for Dress
makers"
This Is the secret Of incompetence and
enormous prices. We not only have no
competent teachers OF dressmaking. but
we have no class from which TO draw the
supply of pupils. American girls who
have 10 earn their own living want always
TO do 1t by writing or teaching, whether
they can teach or write or not. The Ameri-
can-bOrn women who pursue dressmaking