Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-07-03

4 Oi SILK and wool, and IT reduces cost
! and weight while not impairing its useful quail
| lilies. II is usual 10 make mp this material with
plain Saline or surah for piaitings and vest in
the body part OF the fabric; but IL could be just
| a. well completed by plain vests of piQue or
wash leather and few broDsed buttons put on
| In twos or threes.
| COOL CoLoRs.
Cool effects are now sought for. The fiery
| reds and brilliant yelIows have given place to
gray blues, mushroom browns, pale ecru,
tinted white and lilac. Gray and lilac
and gray and white are "Reminiscences
| OF the styles Of hall century ago
| which have been revived occasionally since
and are always suggestive OF the fairness
aud sweetness, the freshness and coOlness of
| the young summer. Ladies who go 10 the cOun-
Try need only a thin tweed or checked wool for
| travelling and cool days, a couple OF cotton
/ print or gingham dresses for mourning; a lilac
| muslin and linen lawn Tor afternoon wear and
q nan worn SIX lor sundays ana occasions, 10
De Well fitted out so far dresses are concerned.
| For The rest, one black or brown and one white
| straw hat, black hchu, gray buster or ulster,
Japanese fan, a pair OF black Jersey mitts, a
sack Tor cool mornings, one pair OF kid and one
Iair OF silk and linen gloves and the whole out
nj Is comp lete at cost of fifty dollars or less,
| III lhe Iauy Is her own dresSmaker.
| THE COST OF A COTTON GOWN.
| very good and pretty materials can now be
obtained at very moderate prices, provided
| they are not the novelties of the season. But
fashionable making brings them up to high
/ 1igures. Nor are the high charges confined to
| Importing mOdistes and dressmakers upon the
exclusive side streets giving upon Fiftn or Mad
dressmakers occupying rooms near Third av-
| enue-support children, and perhaps nus
| the girls they employ; charging fifteen TO
| twenty-five dollars Tor making suit or silk
dress, and ten to fifteen for the simplest cotton
| In addition to these prices are the materials
/ USED III making-thread, silk and the like-and
| u variety Oh fresh and costly hnishingS and
| touches" which a dressmaker always assures
All
| important sum TO the total. Even at these
prices 1t Is not easy to get dressnaklng done,
! YOU are quite discouraged remarked one OF
/ these "Third avenue dressmakers to q Gus
! TONER. whose materials had been in hand over
| three months. "WeIl," she continued, ~ am
/ discouraged myself one of my best girls has
| been sick all the season and have advertised
nNe times and only got one answer You see
| We have no sources OF supply for dressmakers."
| This is tine secret OF Impotence and enor-
NOUS prices We not only have no competent
teachers OF dressmakng; but we have no Class
| from which 10 draw the supply OF pupils.
American girls who have To earn their own liy-
ins, WANT always 10 do it by writing or teach
| ing; whether they can teach, write, or not.
The American born women who pursue dress
making as AN occupation in Our large cities,
have rarely been trained TO 1t; they have usually
been forced 10 do something by death Or failure
Oh resources; ana prefer this to keeping board
ing mouse, which Is their only other aiterna-
tive.
the pressure of prices is creating opportunity
for CLASS OF women which OF late years had be-
go out by The day for dressmaking O TO 'cut
and nj" a competent woman who works in
this Way earns two and a hall To three dollars
per DAY ana her mld-uay meal; perhaps also,
her dinner in the evening; and il Is extremely
difficult To secure Them all their time being
hIIeu weeks and months in advance. 1t was
Remarked by one OF them recently that times
hau greatly changed, that i'll the very first
fatalities, ladies sat right DOWN and worked
win her steadily ilil ali was done; whereas she
used hardly to See them except when lifting
them; and had much lever customers OF that
class Inns Is encouraging: and now, II edu-
Gated women Will enter the held OF dTesAmak-
Ing ana bring their energy and trained faculties
10 Dear upon 1t, we shan soon cease 10 want TO
so 10 Paris To get u dress made and "our girls
Will be SO much tue rIcner and, better still, in
dependent OF fortune.
THE SHOP FRoCK.
1t may be said Why pay these high prices
for making cheap summer cottons and woods,
when they can actually be bought ready made
i'll any large shop for the cost OF making?'
That any woman should do so, especially one
VINO earns ner money, or with whom Ii is not
plentiful seeins absurd. But although the TACT
DIES operate against dressmakers and in favor
OF The shops, stili there are many women who
would like To do it. who never buy '.ready
iuade dress II tuey can help il; the three priIl
clpisl reasons being first, the difficulty OF OBJ
{ tanning rI5hfkihds anu cOiors oi material Sec
ond, goou lit anu third, good finish. Stock
suits ana costumes always made OF left
over materials. Ihey cut on general DILL
cip!es; not III new styles or to please individual
lied tastes; ana as they are made by cheap
workers, the Workmanship is very imperfect
and requires much Subsequent editing"
W hIte, ready made dresses and costumes are
too Often d deidsion and share. They are add
vertsed Tor what they are not; are either pueriie
or elaborated TO such an extent with ribuOns
anu embroidery, that plain women cannot wear
theln ana require all tie resources oil u French
laundry TO make them clean when they are
dirty. But the beauty of modern embroidery
upon tinIed cottons is very tempting; while its
cneapuv,s reuuers il available Tor every one
VINO ci,n AFFORD 10 dress at ali.
One way oi utilizing then,-perhaps the
i.f.x-
chased with bouncing, an "ail over EN-
oroidered skirt from three 10 five dollars. The
''roue Will make Two pretty skirts and for Two
dollars 10 Two and hall cali be bong very well
cutand well made sicqUes, shaped i'll the II cure
AMI trimmed lengthwise and as border with
Insertion and emu oIdeiy. No one whose time
worth any thins would make them for the
money; nor could the material alone be pur-
chased at retail prices Tor much less; and thus
lUr from eIs INT To ten dollars, aud even less
with only tile trouble Of putting together the
simple skirts which require no oraplng or
over-makIns, TWO pretty, white, house or morn
Ing dresses may DC secured, which are good for
frequent wear through the summer LOT two or
I three years.
| PICTURESQUE LITTLE GIRLS.
summer dressing in the country is charming
this year, because delicate tints in cottons ana
/ white WOODS are much used. 1t is d real
/ pleasure TO see the return TO the straight, sim
| pie skirt: because it is such "a comfort to the
| tired ana welcome relief from the weight
aud burdensoii-e Character Of the costume
/
/ basque or plated (Noriolk) jacket They should
| be made with gathered bodice belted in to
the waist and English ''housemaid" skirt.
straight at the back and full, but with an apron
/ turned over and tucked in on one side.
| There never was time hen white was so
much used or adapted to SO many purposes:
from the white cotton skirt aud stcgue To the
| India muslin enriched with exquisite embroid-
cry and nlmy valenciennes from the tinted
I flannel and vIcuna cloth liueu with corded silk:
i to the satin and lace which is the regulaii ion
evening toilette. This refinement of color is
| the Distinguishing mark OF high fashion, and
| the best society. The great majority cannot
afford To- wear white dresses that will not wash
| or That cost almost as much TO clean as W Duy
/ new.
| The outdoor life obtains picturesqueness
belonging solely TO these later years, from the
quaint dressing vi the chiidren particularly
| the little girls. The quaint medieval or early
| English Irocks and bodices, the granny" bon
net, OF large 'witcn' hats are all reproduce tons
| of Christmas pictures and story books, which
have grown out OF the Greenaway idea. But
| they are charming. all the same; and will in
| nuence III indirect ways the art and dress of
| the future. JENNIE JUNE.
| Greek Meets Greek.
| From the Omaha Herald.
AS l sirol!ed OIL the beach with the fair Isabella