Morning journal and courier., 1886-03-17

of sicilienne. The unique opens over the l right hip. Below the hip it is joined by 8
 metal clasp and below this it is folded in
 large round plait. On the left side the | back consists of two breadths of goods. The waist is cut on ordinary waist lin l ing. It opens in front over striped vest, ! and on either side of the vest is 8 revers
 of the same striped goods The revers be- l come narrow they reach the lower part | of the waist. Closely plaited bands of si- cilienne are inserted in the back seams of 1 the coat basque and form full postilion. 1 The sleeves have double cuffs of pekin and | sicilienne. The sicilienne cuff is turned down over the striped one and forms ! small point.
 Small visite mantles will be made to l match the dresses and lined with colored silks. Travelling cloaks will also corre- spond with the suits. Mantles and visites l are still more fanciful than last year's In l one of the new shapes the back sits tight | ly to the figure and is cut shorter than the front. The sleeve is tight on the upper part of the arm and very high on the shoulder. In short the whole mantle is taken as snugly as possible around the body: Some fronts of outer garments will be Of plain silk if the garment is a fancy article. Trimmings will consist of inserted pieces Of embroidery, beads, lace outings, square ends falling fiat over the hips and separating the back of the garment from the front, ''bournous" ends of lace with tassels falling from the sleeves and appear ing to form part of the latter, bows and numerous other combinations of the same type. Young ladies will still wear jackets ! with some slight changes in these articles. They are shorter in the back than in front and very tight fitting. They button straight down the center The collars are straight as heretofore. Some jackets but
 ton on the side, have darts and are trimmed with two wide ievers which be come suddenly narrow at the waist. The large turned down collar corresponds with these revers and is of the same material. The collar may also be of velvet or of some fancy fabric. The part over the breast between the revers may be of velvet or of embroidered goods. For summer wear young ladies may replace the breast piece by guimpes of surah or of lawn. The
 elegance of jackets depends solely upon the
 buttons with which they trimmed.
 These are often chased like jewelry and are very odd in design, or else they are rich and plain.
 Bustles are only worn large just below
 the waist and even then are not exaggera-
 ted in size They should be placed low
 as possible below the waist. The long and
 stiff contrivances now worn by many la
 dies are very clumsy, and as it is only
 necessary that the drapery or the fullness of
 the skirt should sit we'll out they are also
 quite useless.
 GloVes are worn longer than ever. They
 extend to above the elbow and even as far as
 under the arm. This fashion is absolutely
 necessary, even if one has a handsome arm
 As long gloves are very costly, they may be
 heightened by a lace ruffie, with narrow
 piece of ribbon drawn through the upper
 part to keep them in place. For undressed
 kid gloves Irish guipure lace is preferred, as
 it is very strong. It is neatly sewed to the
 edge of the glove without stretching the kid and an open space is left large enough for
 the arm and hand to pass through it.
 novelty in Parisian fans is large letter in the center of gauge field. The letter is
 covered with diamond dust, and the effect is
 made still more brilliant by the ground of
 the fan being black