Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-04-03

DuI1uH5. STRIPES are useu III All sOfls Oh
ways-upright and in bayadere fashion
but the newest thing is to have them form
diagonal lines.
THE LENNON JACKET
is a pretty novelty IN white cloth. The
cellar, cuffs and corners are embroidered
IN simple chain or outline stitch, with q
color-but not a striking color. The soft,
gray blue known as SeYres, the delicate
sea-Dlue called the soent or the rich
peach shnde in silk, mixed with gold
unread are all very much admired, and
can be used by any worker, the patterns
beng easily executed. The feature,
however, is the initial or monogram of
The owner, which is wrought in the cor
ners of the collar and the lower corners
OF the fronts of the jacket which is lined
with silk the color of the embroidery or
with white. a Partisan Jacket OF the
very best type, is of soft, fine, gray cloth,
hait-httlng, buttOned over in a diagonal
line, and simply bound with galoon and
faced with silk of the same color. The
buttons are not large and are of gray
clOth set in line RIM OF silver. There is
an air of exquisite refinement about these
little garments, and a complete costume
in the same style is we'll called s'the YES
tai, for there is an expression of virginia.
purity and gentleness, that separates it
nun Ill OJnGIs OF us Class.
GREAT REDUCTION
in the amount Of drapery is the most
obvious feature of the new designs.
TINS was true Of the best designs last
year, as they were described by your cor
respondent, but "drapery" dies bard, and
some dressmakers are so welded TO it
that they do not consider a design posi-.
Bile without it. In fact, drapery has been
part of the ''art' of the modiste since
they have been in the business, and per-
haps they are right in thinking that there
can be no art in making dresses without
1t. "Anybody," as one of them remarked
"can make a night gown, but great ar
lists do not disdain to make the studies
for drapery. "Still, it is not given to all
of us to be great artists or to employ
them, and the straight, full back to the
skirt IS not only great relief but WISH
BILE improvement upOn the bunch Of folds
and wrinkles, often dragged or dropped
from ill stitching out of all artistic SEEM
ing, and always cause OF so much
anxiety that the wrinkles of the gown are
reproduced in the face of the wearer. The
fact remains, however, that drapery and
the amount OF material put into folds and
laid in double and even triple layers is
greatly lessened; and for this much OF
grace let us be deYoutly thankful. There
are two simple and stylish methods
adopted in making wooden gowns, the
first OF which is adapted to serge, home
spun, flannel and the like; and the second
to finer woods, nuns yelling, Albatros
cloth and others. Both skirts are straight
and tull at the back and the panelling at
the sides with plating or embroidery is
matter of taste; but the front Of the serge
skirt is arranged in fine clustered plaits or
folds, with spaces plain or enriched with
upright brading between and surmOunt-
ed with short apron drapery, turned
over in front or upon the side and laid
fiat over the hips, the ends forming large
wing-like pulls or bows at the back. The
draPery of the second skirt. on the con-
trary, covers the entire front above the
iEe knife plating, and is open upon one
side where it is lifted very slightly. the
open sides showing a wonder of embrOid-
cry and being held together by ribbons
tied over a killed panel.
Another feature, winch it is necessary
to bear in mind in order to give ''new"
appearance to spriR g-made basques and
dresses, is this: that vests have largely
given place to pointed collars or pointed
fronts inserted but not reaching farther
than the top OF the corset panel to match
the front. A ''piece' for the side drapery
and corners" for basque and cuffs are
sometimes made in two different sets for
the same dress, so as to give a lighter et-
feet for the summer than would be de-
sirable for the spring months. A suit of
gray wool made in this way had two sets
Of trimming, both made upon cream fan
mel; one set was striped in alternate lines
Of red silk and japanese gold braid, the
other embroidered ia chain stitch In sea-
blue silk.
THE BEADED EDGES
h H.
made gowns and jackets; but are univer-
sal on popular spring styles Jackets,
basques, vests, hornets, hats, panels,
understanding upon which beads
can be put. Dark straw hats are seen in
the street with beaded brims or rims, in
glass, which reflect all colors of the rain
bow. In many cases the beaded addition
coarse and shOwy-has no relation
whatever to the article upon which it IL
expended, or TO the costume of which the
article itself forms part; and is nothing.
therefore, but bit Of barbaric glitter
But OF beaded embroidery ana beaded
garments there is an aim 9st infinite 'vari-
ETY.; much Of which is very rich and eX-
pensive. Costumes are seen upon the
street, the wide, panel sides and man
ties OF which are masses OF beads and
beaded work, and ii the wearer chooses,
her bonnet, gloves and hosiery can be
purchased studded or wrought to match.
A bronze dress exhibited lately had pam
els and mantle embroidered with metal
lie silk cord and beads. in various shades
of gold, bronze and garnet, intermingied
with bronze shells and pendants, and
edged with metallic fringe mixed with
shaded chenille tipped with bronze beads.
Stories of Arabian splendor pale before
the effect of half a dozen such costumes,
rejecting and multiplying wlth every
movement, all the coors OF earth air and
sky. What il would be, If all. or any
number OF women could adopt them, and
II they should add to the beaded dress and
bonnet, the hose and the gloves, the bead
ed satin boots ard the beaded psrasol, can
hardly be imagined. The usual prOces
sion Of women upon a th0rOughtare would
be more terrible than ian army with ban
ners."
The jetted transparent tissues were a
novelty last season; they are now extend
ed to cOlored beaded transparencies. BY
this is not meant beading upon lace, but
fire beaded netting and open work, in up.
right leaves and ladder-like forms, which
show nothing but the bead work and tie
lining beneath on there IL any. There
are bOnnets and even small carriage par
asols composed wholly of these beaded
transparencies. which are more novel ia
appearance and more effective, when UNI
lined: and are less snowy than might be
imagined, because the cOlOrs are dark or
well blended. A small capOte bonnet OF
this description, corresponding 10 mod
crate quantity Of trimming upon the
dress, would not be out OF place or inele-
gant-quite otherwise. One can Imagine