Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1886-09-05
NORWAY.
SCENERY WHICH COMPARES WITH
THAT OF THE BxRNEsx ALPS.
hospitable Treatment Of the traveller
why Americans are Favored-Ths
Midnight sun,

why Americans are Favored-Ths
| Midnight sun.
NO country In Europe possesses at
usctions for summer tourist equal to
those found upon the Scandinavian pc
Dinstla, writes . Throndhjsm corre-
sponcent Of the San Francisco Chroni-
efe. Here is relief from the heat Of
Italy and Southern France; here is
scenery which In wild grandeur COM
pares with the Bernsse Alps here are
mighty cascades and all the adjuncts
which comprise the picturesque; and
here only Flora has bestowed her
fragrant favors with more lavish
band than in California. Moreover,
this Ultima Thule Of Strabo proves
extremely interesting to the Eng
disappearing race from the fact that
here ramify the roots OF our genealogi-
cal tree. Hepghist and Horsa, descend.
ing from Jutland to the isle of Thsnet,
were the FIRST Euglishmen. Their lau.
gusge differed little from that now
spoken in some Norwegian districts.
The inconveniences which the Morse
travellers experienced few years ago
have been remedied. New roads are
constructed, modern hotels built, and so
many other reforms inaugurated that
the tourist is no longer pioneer.
IL is strange how the illustrations
of our old biographies are impressed
upon the mind. The merest mention of
tropics always forces upon my mental
vision an abominabls picture OF great
trees swsrming with parrots, encircled
by boa-constrictors, and festooned with
monkey. chains, while below elephants
coquette with hippopotami. 1t is need
less to add that visit dispelled the
illusion. Just so with Norway. The
geographer illustrates it with pictures
only of icebergs, polar bears, and
Lapps in winter costume. With these
before the mind, the tourist rides in
surprise through lovely green valleys,
fragrant with flowers, and reaches
North cape to find it as innocent of ice !
and polar bears as the north heads Of
the Golden Gate, which it resembles.
The first impressive popularity of |
northern lands is the extent Of .wilight. !
Early in June, at Copenhagen, could
read by the twilight at ii P. NJ. At
Stockholm it was continual day, and |
after crossing the Arctic circle the sun
was constantly in view. The deserted |
appearance of a sleeping village in day
light is remarkable. Norway has three |
cities of importance--Ohristiania, the
political centre; Bergen, noted for its
commerce, and Throndbjem, of hstori-
cal interest. The first named, delight
fully situated at the head of its
celebrated ford, has a population
Of l28,000, well.equipped uni
varsity, parks, tram lines, aud
other accessories Of a commercial
metropolis. In her museum is found
the recently excavated Viking ship,
which, although nine hundred years
old, is in an excellent state of preser-
walton. The craft is seventy-ive feet
over all and sixteen feet beam, with
lines similar to those used by Norwe-
gian bost-builders at the present time.
Tbrondbem was formerly the capital,
and hither all Kings must como to be
crowned. The cathedral, erected by
pilgrims to the shrine of st. Olaf, was
completed in 1910, and is the most re-
markable structure Of Romanesque and
Gothic architecture Of its era.
In general contour Norway is exceed
iDgly rough and mountainous. The
scenery is more varied, but not so charm.
irg as that of Scotland. The noun
tains are somewhat like the barren
heights Of the upper Kings river, and
lack the sublime beauty of the MERGED
peaks. Water views lend their charm
to nearly every landscape. Not only is
the coast line indented with winding
fjords, but fresh.wster lakes compose
nearly q per cent. OF the surface Of the
country. Norse-pine forests are incom-
parable, and her aower-decked glades
only need the fragrance of la ysrbs
buena to make them as charming as
some of the Santa Cruz glens. In order
to appreciate Norway's scenery and
people it is necessary to journey
through the country by carriole, mode
Of locomotion as enjoyable as it is
unique. The national conveyance, or
carriole, is a pony-gig, mounting seat
of Fundamentals shape, just large
enough for 0ne--a slim one. Corpu-
lency never patronizes these vehicles. /
As the seat is innocent Of lazy-back,
The traveller soon learns that II Is less
painful to "go ashore" while steep
ascent is being made, and thus become
a walking exponent Of the theory that
there is design in all things. Carriole-
driving is at first very jolly, but, as
the vehicle is exceeding narrow-gsuge,
the first rut will bring the elbow and
wheel in contact, causing the novelty
and cuticle-soon to wear off.
AS every farmer is compelled by law
to entertain the traveller and furnish q
fresh steed to continue the journey,
there is no occasion to hurry forward to
a hotel. 1t is also delightful to be ab-
solved from the fear that darkness will
overtake you. This feeling ofsecurity,
however, must be acquired by exps-
Iience. In one Of my first trips found {
myself ten miles from my destination {
at s P. NJ, and as darkness is always q
"lee shore" to o traveller, tho
whip was vigorously piled for
some time before / realized the q
state Of affairs. Then the pony
grazed, while promised myself never
to say anything about it. The Norwe- i
gians are characterized by honesty, In t
dustry, cheerfulness, and sobriety, i
which is moro than can be truthfully il
said of many European nations. Here '
sven the boatmen are honest. You o
must watch them, or they will be guilty o
If undercharging. Quite different from C
he gallant Nsapolitan, who demanded el
dollar for ferrying me to a Capri t.
teamer, and finally agreed to perform Il
he service for six cents. The Norskes S
ave inherited the physical strength CT
nd bravery Of their hardy ancestors. S
In old Viking once made the voy. b,