Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-05-02
NARTYRDOM OF WOMAN.
now SHE SUFFERS IN MATTERS
OF DRtSS.


summer Fashions New Laces and
embroidery Upon Observation-Disclosures
Dresses.
NEW YORK, April 30.-Mr. Julian Haw-
thorne remarked recently that modern
literary Notwithstanding of this coun-
trv-take themselves "too seriously"
This is true here OF every department of
life. and even of the dress women wear, it
ia s.taken too seriously" 1t is not enjoy
cd IL is worn to set an example, to IL
lustrate style, to be equal to an occa-
sion-very rarely for comfort, or ease, or
Measure. 1t is said that women have a
special faculty for making martyrs OF
themselves. This is undoubtedly true. 1t
il theirs by inheritance;tor since the early
tavs when women were buried alive with
their hus bands in order that they should
have their service and cOmpaniOnship IN
the next world, down to fifty years ago,
when in a town in New York State, the
selectmen put the name OF drunken
''ne'er-do-welW on brass memorial Iao-
let with that OF his wife-who was pub
lfc benefactress- because it "Would not
be proper for the woman's name TO appear
without that of the man, and would give
rise to ideas subVersive ofnaturai author
itV on the part of women women nave
bad to suffer more or less-trom no fault
of their OWn-and they have acquired a
habit of it. This habltuai su0Jectlon TO
authority. this faculty for martyrdom, IS
the only hypothesis upon wnlcn one can
account for their frequent acceptance Of
the uncomfortable and uubecpming in
dress. and the ingenuity by which they
contrive to make binding duties out OF 50
much that i, unnecessary and superfiu-
Gus. The only real use that can be found
for them-and that is, after all, not a
slight oue-is, "a aids to self-respect. 1t
is good to feel obliged to be equal to some
thing, to maintain ones place, even if 1t
is only among the Wearers OF
EASTER BoNNETs.
Bonnets, by the way, have come to the
front this season, literally as well as fig
uratively. They show an almost infinite
diversity aud many new and striking tea
lures. The ''dress" bpnnets, par excel
lence, are small, set close 10 the head and
ere pointed up at the back. The trim
ming forms steps or ladders directly over
the front, rising high; sometimes in Sc
Iies of double loops, sometimes in mix
ture Of ribbon loops with grasses; or they
exhibit bows of EN- 0rOidered lace or gauze
with light, spear-shaped headed aigrettes.
The transparent jetted bOnnets divide the
donors with the pretty flower bOnnets
which are the Partisan sensation; though
neither can be said to be new; for the
transparent bonnet, forming much such
a fantastic head-dress as now, only not
rising so high, was fashionable many
years ago; and the flower bOnnets have
been more or less in vogue since the small
bonnets reasserted their claims, now near
ly ten years ago.
There are new features this season,
however, which have never appeared be-
fore; and one is the insertion in the trans
parent crowns Of the dainty little ''ietted"
bonnets; jetted comb, which is set ex-
actly as il might be in the hair; some
times in front as sort of cOr0net; some
times at the back surmOun ing the twist
or braid. The term ',jetted" Is not iDacu-
rately applied to colOred as we'll as black
beaded Ornamentation; and there are bon
nets formed of mixed network Of small
bronze, ruby or amber beads outlined
with larger ones and finished with comb
and aigrette to match, which constitute
the entire decoration. To add more, or
anything which would conceal the form
or play of light and color would be to dis
figure and hide their beauty.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ABROAD.
These styles are imported or made to or
der, as they are too difficult and too ex-
pensiVe to become common. But in black
jet they are much more frequently seen;
and though not numerous still form fea-
ture OF all millinery exhibitions. At some
OF the Judic performance 1t was curious
to see how very much more these trans
parent, beaded bOnneGs were represented
tnan those of any other style or descrip-
tiOn. They were in the large majority; a
simple fact that told how strongly the
krAuCn element Waa rpnrpspufPd.
VirOJ has sent over some bOnnets this
season which are considerably more ef-
iective-nOt to say pronounced-than it
has been her custom to display. VIrOt is
truly woman OF ideas. She introduced
the ''Cap0te;" she is responsible for the
Continental pre-eminence given to the
''beIge" shades and it was she who re-
vived the ''Gainsborough"; all perma-
nent suggestions, which have continued
10 live through all the mutations OF the
past twenty 10 twenty-five years and are
still ia the ascendant, the changes being
in matter OF detail. But Madame NirOt
Is well along in years now, and her name
may be all that is left of her, in the de-
signs which come from her estab lsh-
ment. Her influence is, however, clearly
traceable in the refinement of the charm
ing little designs with crowns of small
flowers, cOwsllps or pansies, a large
bow OF gauze ribbon on the top and front
of embrOide ed lace or gauZe or tulle
''over'' yellow or heliOtrOpe silk. The bios
SONS are set close but not crowded thick
ly, ana are mingled with fine green leaves,
either the natural foliage or malden-hair
tern.
FANCY sTRAws.
The plain straw hats and bOnnets have
been quite removed to the background
and are only employed for serViceable
purposes. The new fancy straws are a
revival OF the fancy Tuscans aud Leg
horns of twenty-five years ago. They are
now called "Etruscan," from their deep
color, and they are trimmed with satin,
straw flowers and black velvet, or straw
flowers and gauze ribbon with picOt edge
and velvet centre. Some of these Etrus-
can straws are ''Open" or semi-transpar-
emit; others are wrought so as 10 give
the effect of straw lace. They are also
combined with the tule, lace and gauze
tissues which are woven in a pattern or
embroidered by hand; the trimming some
times representing all the cOlOrs, in RIB
bon, Of the embroidery. A brown tulle,
studded with straw stars is trimmed with
straw lace; and lilac and yellow aud ten
der green in the ornamentatiOn. But there
are also bonnets in which all the soft
tlnts OF one color will be blended in one
general tone Of lilac or yellow, or pale
gold shading into pink.
THE FLOWER CRAZE
mas received an impetus from the flower
Ia .aaaN a tHa