The Austin weekly statesman. (Austin, Tex.) 1883-1898, 1886-11-25
FASHION IN MOURNING.
TOILETS INTENDED TO CIV E EX
pRESSION 10 GRIEE.

PRESTON TO GRIEF.
Philadelphia Times.
There are some important facts regard
ing the costly and elegant decorative
mourning material, Grape, which are not
generally known, and will surely prove OF
interest to ladies in and out of mourning.
Grape is made of the finest silk, brought
to desired state of perfection by three dis
tinct processes of construction, the details
of each being trade secrets, hence the
weaver knows nothing of the dyeing, nor
the dyer or weaver of the crimping. To
preserve Grape, il should not be exposed
to dampness, but if it chances to get wet
it should not be put near the fire to dry.
If a Grape bonnet happens to be rained
upon wipe it at once and hang 1T up to
dry away from fire heat. If Grape is
stained with mud dampen with pure cold
! water, remove the soil and then wash off
the stain and let the article dry. To re-
fresh shabby Grape moisten slightly and
carefully all over alike with gin and roll
it on roller, where it should remain until
it is stiff. Ammonia with water will also
restore the color to Grape.
Grape is essentially the trimming for
deep mourning toilets, the bonnet and
veil being usually entirely of the Grape
manufactured for such uses, that for the
veil being bordered in various depths.
The celebrated Courtauld black English
grapes, the best grapes made, are noted
for their beauty of finish and the purity
of their dyes, and can be found in various
qualities, in four and five quarters
widths for trimmings and in six-quarters
for yelling.
The recently introduced silk warp Grape
cloth, which is fabric with cloth body
and crape-lIke surface, is one of b.
Priestly's vanished board novelties, OF
which entire and complete toilets are com
posed; and another new dress material Is
the silk warp camels hair, which makes
up very richly. No goods, however. are
superior for elegant deep mourning toll
cts than the handsome jet black Henriet-
tas, with silksn warp. The qualities also
come in blue. black, and are used to create
stylish and becoming dresses and cos
tunes, with elaborate decorations in jet
and plomb-beaded embroideries and rich
passementeries.
For out-of-door wear in the winter sea-
son there are quantities of heavy-looking
cloths and serges, of which most comfort
able costumes can be formed, for, al
| though these rough-surface materials
look weighty, they are light to carry. Fol-
house dresses American tricotines, surahf
and lusterless gros grains are largely
used, and among the novelties is q black
surah, with hair-lines in white, which
maks very neat dress for second mourn
ing wear.
Toilets intended to give expression to
the deepest grief are not materially diner
ent in design from those worn on ordin-
airy occasions; however, some styles are
especially adapted TO the uniting OF hand
some siik-warp jet black fabrics with
Grape; for instance, an odd and elegant
cloak of Henrietta cloth shows back fit.
ted TO below the waist line, where a full
skirt is shirred and joined to basque
skirt. vandyke-shaped panels of Grape
are on either side of the garment. The
front is slightly fitted to the form, and
over the coat sleeves are long tab pieces
of oversleeves of Grape that reach from
the shoulder, where it is shaped and sewec
into the armhole, down TO the edge OF the
cloak skirt.
A neat and handsome mourning cos
tune is of silk warp cameps hair goods
and Grape. The full skirt Of camers hail
is bordered at the lower edge with deeI
band of Grape, and reyers Of the Grape arr
on the graceful tunic. The Zouaye JACKIE
bodice shows waistcoat points of thu
camel's hair material, while the reyers o.
lapels, the collars aud cuffs are Of Grape
Another method of making up the sill
warp camels-hair fabric is illustrated In |
dress with skirt trimmed at the lowe
edge with side pIaitings. Above tn