New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1886-12-12
SUNDAY EDITION.
DEC. Ia, 1856.

farenough from its native SHOWS; and more than
once as friend after friend proved false. tho fond
fidelity of Ponto has recalled the bitter words Of
De Stae: 1.-THE more / see of men, the better az.
preciate dogs"
Chamounix was hung with flags for the ex-Pres-
ident, and Mt Blanc was illuminated. At night
away mp at the chalet where the climbers rest we
saw light cleaning over the SHOWS which told
that the Swiss noun taineers greeted the American
democrat
We descended as said. by the Tete Noire. and
all through the great mountain gorge the plain un-
sentimental soldier felt am sure. the grandeur
of the as fully as any who ever
gazed on It, He became. like every one OF
any susceptibility. imbucd with the sense Of sub
Unity. From vernayaz we had intended to return to
Geneva, but after reaching the Gorge du Trent.
we went up the valley of the Rh6ne to Bricg Then
We assembled the Simpon. and again Grant was
deeply impressed and interested. He often left tho
carriage to walk so as tho better 10 drink in the
grandeur At the hospIcs of the simplon the monks
had heard of him; they got out their choicest
home made wine and spread their frugal lunch for
the American commander.
So we went ou to italy, the road built by
another general Grant everywhere enjoying the
novelty approaching the scenery. studying the pco-
pie. He liked people always more than scenery, and
the common people best Of ALL At cvery town or
village as soon we stopped for the night, he
wanted to stroll out with me and watch the crowds
returning from work, IN their shops or on their
little farms; at play or festival. At DOmo dOssola
there charming fete, with fireworks, dances
and music for Our Lady Of the Shows" tie made
me ask the peasants questions In their own lam
guage, for he was scholar. as the world knows:
but he got at the people quickly and often was him.
self bis own and best interpreter Nothing in all
his travel delighted or interested him more than
this going direct to the people themselves 1t was
Antaus touching EARTH
But he was sufficiently courteous to those who
thought themselves the great" when they came
to offer him civilites. He was by no means indif-
ferent to the evidences Of his distinction. At
charming spot on one of the Italian lakes, where
we staid for day or two, evening after dinner
O Princess was announced. She came across tho
lake in her boat through the twilight, with
attendants and female friend-a handsome. sumpt-
uous woman. with famous Russian name. She
was dressed in black, with o lace shawl thrown
over her head and blush red rose in her hair.
She came to ask the General and his party
to visit her villa in the neighborhood called after
herself the "Vila Ada" The Princess was an
American she explained but had married o
great Russian. and was living away from home to
educate her boys The Prince unfortunately was
absent but she hoped to receive her great country
man at midday dinner. General Grant accept
ed the invitation promptly, for he always awaited
himself Of pleasant opportunities like true
traveller but Mrs. Grant could not say at once X
she was dsengaged. With woman's instinct she
wanted to find out more about her hostess.
We learned, however that the lady was in reali-
ty Russian princess, though au An erican
by BIRTH aud Mrs. Grant accompanied tho Gem
eral to the luncheon. The villa charming.
air six
flowers all Italian. The Princess was stately;
her manner became her rank she was not mora
than forty if so old; very handsome aud especially
amiable to Jesse, for Mrs. Grant always awed even
Princesses If they paid too much attention to- her
great husband. We noticed many portraits OF the
Princess IN fancy costume, Lucrezia, Semlranide,
Norma: and her hlghness explained that she was
fond OF fancy balls, and had been painted often
after going to one. From the villa we returned TO
the hotel where-a tenor singer wanted General
Grant to patrOnize his concert. The General did
not think this worth his Will G, and then the tenor
spltefdlly exclaimed General Grant might well
go to his concert as to the honse of former prma
donna. The Princess was indeed an American girl
who had come to Italy to study for the opera; had
sung at La Scala and san Carlo and pleas ID the
fancy OF the Prince, VINO married her. But sle
could not go to court. nor be recognized at ST.
Petersburg. That why she lived IN Italy.
That accounted for the portraits of l.ucrezia and
Semlramlde. There was no harm done: the Prin-
cess was married. but she had kept back her story
when she invited Mrs. Grant. Her companion had
an engagement at the time at the Neapolitan
opera Nevertheless the villa was beautiful the
lake was Italian and the Princess was real, like
her lace and her red rose.
At Thusls there was another incident One Sum
day morning after the late Continental breakfast
we were waiting for the yetturino. and sat IN an
arbor without the inu, looking up TO the Via Maa.
There little gate that opened on the arbor,
and to this there came short but stately woman
of sixty years more dressed III black without Q
bonnet. but holding a paraso She walked
straight up to the group and looking over the gate
asked if this was General Grant then made pio-
a
Soyereigns Her face and voice seemed strangely
familiar TO me- but | could not recall where had
known either. 1 rose, however, OF course, and
opened the gate thinking she might be some duch-
ess come to ask General Grant to dine with
queen, and the lady entered. She was invited to q
seat, but did not tell her name Sac had just como
from the Engadlne. where she had been greatly III
terested in Swiss peasant who had served IN
the American army, and she had promised
If ever she met General Grant to lmplore him for
pension for ner prutege. General Grant had no
moro power than had to obtain pension. except
according to the rules; and as consular oilcsr
was familiar with the methods endeavored to
explain this but the beneicent stranger did noe
care for rules. she wanted the interpretations OF tho
ex-president; the deus machind Finally, how
ever she learned Just how much or how little Gen.
eral Grant could do in the matter. and turned to
take her luave As she rose she said she had had the
pleasure of knowing General Grants daughter in
England; young Ssrtoris. who had married Nellie
Grant, was her nephew. Then / knew where
had seen the low forehead ana stately ar ana
Kemble. The connections exchanged few further
remarks and the dramatic parsonage made another
curtsey such as Catherine Of Arragon performed
to Henry VIII, put up her black silk parasol again.
and sailed away.
AZ Heidelberg Grant met Wagner. The King Of
Music came to call OH the man whose deeds were
greater than any the other had evor celebrated in
song or orchestra. The interview was peculiar;
neither of these who had so affected their fellows
In so widely different ways could speak tho others
language. Wagner, master as ne was OF express
sion. was mute in Grants presence and Grant,
whose character is akin. perhaps, to that Of Wag-
ners heroes, was able only 10 reach the musician car;
historic place under tho shadow of the ruined
palace with its m mories-of the latest master OF
modern art with the latest warrior OF modern his
tory-W Is an event worth chrouicliny. III Wagner
had written an opera the Wilderness the
grim and terrible tighter might have inspired An
utterance equal to any of Tristan or Sigismund II
they have met since 1t Is in that region whore
bards aud heroes. perhaps ars equal where the
laurel is bestowed alike on deeds aud thoughts
was with General Grant in Rome but there 10