Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-07-03
From Our own Correspon

from Our own Correspondents
NEW YORK, July I'd.
III Is not easy to forecast-in fabric or design
that which will tie likely to become a popular
rage in this country. Every season there are
styles ana designs that 'take" and others that
die a natural death. The Canvas materials
were IN great force abroad last year; and they
cover the counters OF the great dry goods houses
In New York at the present moment; but they
are not very generally bought or sold. They
form part OF the wardrobe OF the dressy young
or married lady who can afford a variety OF
handsome costumes; but they are looked at,
admired and lett by the thrifty matron who
has To provide Tor herself and daughters.
Canvas dress es in seasonabIe styles are ex-
pensive; they must be made over silk; and the
trimming paIt-which consists OF stripes-ii
velvet or plush in rich contrasting colors, is
usually supplemented by vest or refers OF
SILK velvet in tue deepest shade OF the stripe.
This, and The silk lining, brings the cost of ma
terials alone up to- high ngure and when TO
this, the usual fifteen tn twenty dollars for max
Ing Is added, the outlay Is more than is re-
Quired for a silk and il is not Ssik dress after
all. This is All unanswerable position with
many women. If they are To have nice dress
and pay u good price, ii must be silk and must
show that AZ Is silk
Abroad, "a canvas dress such as have men,
toned, would be considered sufficiently elegant
for u dinner ior best by The wives OF well
To- do merchants and professional men; and
more dIstins UIsEed tnan plain silk while the
cO-t To them would be reduced To probably hall;
By The lesscned cost OF inaterla.s and labor.
IL II always Il problem with Us 10 lind suitable
lining log HooieH fabrics woven with an open
mesh. he value Oh taem does not justify Tie
est which We put upon silk. In Europe, silky
Innings, hight ln texture, yei twliied and daru-
BILE have been brOug LIT 10 perfecIiun; while the y
aud httie la the cost of the uress. But with Us
As yet-gOod, SILK lining costs more than "a silk
faced satin" Or velvet outside, because the
and m
CutIOn. The mai difficulty with the canvas
materials Is tine m;1hIng. the combination
stripes require artistic manipulation ana are
the despair ol Il cUinilonpistce WORKER. IN iact,
dress-makIng mas already become ali art which
demands genius and oilers It's rewards TO the
possessor>-
THE SUMNER SILK.
The character vi the summer silk of to-day
has quite changed nom that OF few years ago.
Then, the single materials were still in use.
Dresses were noI overland or made double as
how, nor so generally combined 10 form the
trimming. The summer silk III small check
hairs Iripe standard fabric, very liz Int
in weight, very much rullled Jas was the fash
ion Ia lnose days. and the TuIles often bound
with a color To given brightness and character.
summer silks OF this Kind have Disappeared OK
are displayed at very much reduced prices.
Surahs have taken their place, tUuiards are re-
yiyed and soft china silks; The latter for the
war off children ami yOun. girls ana also as a,
founiatIOn Tor the black Oh cream lace dresses
which have quite Sdken Lie place OF srena-
dimes
The fashion OF ONeTlaNlIlG ana cOinOinlDS mas
stimulated inventive genius III the Inanuiac-
tuTe Oi light silk, NOoien aud even cotton
fabrics; and an infinite number vi lovely,
transparent Tissues are shown LOT covering ana
cOmbInIu. OF making up alone, which are H.
expensive except iOr the cost OF making. For
Trimming and combining with nuns yelling
and otner thin WOODS there Is ii new, sOft
FROSTED" silk. win ii dull corrugated surface
which has however, - rich elect. II Is dis
played IN cream, IiauSe, amber pale salmon
llnh anu Elbow, anu - u'tu me tFtPe ne
Chine tor IuiI Vest AMI uralerIeS. Combinations
OF Ibis iiiDa are very pretty Tor young girls:
aud II they can make them up themselves
the cost Is slight. But married ladies hnd them
oi little serN ice and prefer Tor summer dress
occasions Two tuIclteS. one oi black lace and
one vi cream lace over twIlled iOuiarj or China
silk: nIst1ic That they can De adapted To ulf-
ferent purposes. Two dresses oI this kind,
cleyeTIY constructed, will not cost more ii as
much, one odd fashioned grenatiine of good
quality, made over SILK, anu triiaIned as form
ery with lace OF fringe Or bot- The secret Is
this Ia the making oi The modern lace dress
only piece lace Il used; except upon the
necessary. Piece lace, bouncing ami tnin, lace
like tissues are now produced at very low rates,
from twenty-five CENTS for madras muslin To
seventy five cents Tor Imitation chaniIily or
spanish lace. Seven yards VIII "drape u
dress; ten Iouiard or thin surah at sixty to
seventy cents per yard viii nahe the under
dress and less viii DC required il ayard and IL
half OF better quaty ur ul satin Is employed Tor
"A narrow, kniIe-plr.IiinS around the bottom.
Thus, nIteen dol ars viii purchase the niateri.io
for "A dress, winch when istC!uiiy Ineiue looks
as II IL cost seventy five 10 a hundred, and
maker.
ARTISTIC DKEssAAKING.
The most promising held there is at present
for girls who possess any artistic faculty, any
GIFT Iur The needle, Is dressuIaking. AS an oecu-
patton il has quite changed its ASPECTS and
methods within the last lew years; anu adj
dresses itself To a new order Oi Intelligence
Formerly the difficulty was simply To keep The
pattern straight IN cutting; ana see that every
part Was LAID the right or upright WY oi the
Egure. TueTe was always ii night and Il Wroug
side: always an up and down" TO the stuff;
always erea>es TO be considered, II there Was
any doubt rs to material. Given the perpen-
dicuiar. the rest Was PLAN sailing; only bound
by the strict and Inevitable limits OF materials
That had only side that was presenI1bIe.
BTeadtls were ''Iorn Oli III those days; and one
pattern OF as.eeVe Was sufficient Tor whole
community.
Nuw the case is infinitely more complicated.
IL IL both easier and Iuore difficult Gut OF two
made aiiAe: anu not only so. but no two vi the
different parts Will be alike. The Restrictions
nave been removed from the manufacturer.
materials. Nearly all alike on butI,
side; nearly aI4-eNen when they are figured
are arranged IN minute curves and lines and
the surface covered, That There Ii neither up
nor aou IL, but delightful capacity for twisting
and turning, nOw!n. cut ann turning over IN
any direction ina! inay he required. This
increases the facilities, but IL makes demands
upon the artistic sense aI.i knowledge Oh Iufni
which tne Uit.--a,snioned dressniaAer cannot
meet. she tries lsIUoriOusiS to- satisfy dINCTsi-
1ieO needs and tastes by means of the paper
model. hut az - EOt tine copying Oi a model;
but oeln. .sble Ia depart lTOIil H. luSl Is evil
deBce oi >kI.l. The difference betw. en the best
ami the worst may be ali IL matter of detail;
b1tn starting from the same ioundation-ihai
u, "a correct OUtiIue-and one producing lines oil
te3uty, while the OiiC~ VIII turn out Il thing all
patches, OF rigid - - wooden block.
"FIE BACKS AND ''sADDLEs"
Almost the same words Will describe the
dress U. to-day and that of five or ten years
To-; yet the effect Is entirely different; simply
te,au>e tie dr.pery mas been Ioosened; the
"t.< L~ch tape, turned Into straps Sad
dies aud tue iu.lne-, lifted into the seunblaucc
al al eApvn5INe tOuTnure. whereas, at That
UH5y Il Ht.Lg low. iHe straight lOids at the
b.scA 81 the s>Irt are - revival III the direction
81 -4!ulH,I lily az well as convenience. But they
aIe Lol universal. They considered suitst-
be lOr the young ana Tor simple country sly les;
and art supplemented by enormous bows and
wItie sSa,!.e-. The differences are often made
BY "a loop Or "a touch; taking In somethIng here,
IL tag &c OUt there and above ali, dIliei
IHg II lTO1n similar style.
The ann vi The dressnIaker without genius Is
To iIi4fltte the cofniionpilee; the aim of the
Irc~smaher with gyni.s l. u depart from the
cOInInUnp place ANA Ini'trt originality 10 all her
pTUductIOus Here i neld iUr < iris Tar more
WorIny of their-puwvrs than painting plaques
relAunerdIISe. Why should the rich cream VI
tn!s OcCu patton DC Sklinueu OF by those who
10 Not possess nall lI.e capacity? y girl who
had studied drawing, wAo understood tine ali
atoTuy the arm, would never threaten
IaGa ii. Dy cutting ~ straight, tight sleeve
eltuer a. a whole or in parts something dc
PENDENT upon Isa>IlOu and subject 10 Its cap
EICes. lnr anatomy oi the nsurc being always
tie same tie Outline, al It's covering should be
the saLIe, the changes and new departures
being Always IL the line OF detail. II - upon