Evening star., 1886-09-04

CHINATOWN.
From Our Own Correspondent
SAN FRANCISCO, August 80
1t would probably have astonished q good
many people who are not only still alive but
have many years of life before them, to have
been told when San Francisco was still min
ing town, that Ii would, Ut this early date rank
as one OF the great cities Of the world. As it
stands-with such shortcomings as the eyes Of
the regular Inhabitants rather than those Of
the stranger may discover-it is a modern mar
vel; a agolden city, as rich in promise now as when
the hrst vein of gold was struck In forty-nine.
The summer months are not considered the
favorable seasons In which to Judge of climate
or society in the western metropolis. 1t Is the
time when 1t Is given over to the fogs and trade
winds; ana the fashionable part of the residen-
tlai population beLakes itself To the seaside-t0
the east, or To Europe. Still, there does not
seem 10 De the Wholesale Hitting there Is with
A NEW PARIS.
There are many days here when the morning
mist Is only thin haze which hangs over the
city like veil, idealizing its general character
istics and endOwing them with a beauty which
perhaps does not belong to them At close range
and IN detail. II such morning that
We obtained our first view Of San francisco,
and the wide Streets the grey tome of the high
buildings seen through the soft haiZe of one of
the most exquisite of days, made 1t seem more
ike Paris than any other city upon his or any
very much modified, but 1t was also con-
firmed by after acquaintance with the leading
business houses and especially with the tastes
IN dress Oh the ladies VINO may be supposed 10
represent the cultivated ideas Of its best society.
There is Perhaps nothing more misleading than
the fixed IDEAS obtained from frst and one
growth, progress, change and the rapid deVei-
opment which Is CHARACTERISTIC OF the age. IL
dress OF the ladies of the west pronounced,
10 the verge OF vulgarity, as Oufre, as exhibiting
violent extremes; and as conveylnga general
impression OF crudeness and uniformed taste.
GENERAL VIEW.
Whatever may have been true of the past,
such assertions are very far from representing
the conditions OF to-day. The faults of the
dress are u too strict conventionality; . too
exact following OF set copies; too great fear of
departing Irom authorized rules and standards;
10 Ignorance of " hat these rules and standards
are. TnIs will De seen 10 be quite naturally the
case; Tor San Francisco possesses more women
probably, who rich in their own right, or
who share in the wealth of their husbands, than
any other ci y In America; and IL Is THESE, VINO
are much at home III London, Paris or New
York as here where they were born or where
they have lived. vino set the fashions and
create the standards which the majority accept.
The first thing which strikes the stranger Is the
conventional excellence oI the modes, tue gen.
orally good cut and sly of even the costumes
seen On the street; the fine outlines, the tailor
Ike neatness OF the suits and the Partisan
beauty and finish OF the wraps There Is AN en-
tire absence oi ,he eSthetic element which one
sees in London; of the originality which leaders
OF fashion display In Paris; OF The cotton gowns
and cuarse siraws. which are as prominent In
Newport AT Huringhani. Coltons cannot
be worn on the streets at san FranciSco-the
climate forbids it, There are therefore no white
embroidered robes" To be seen either on the
streets or in the shops; and the " hite gowns are
either OF wool, for the theater, or OF null or
richer silk or satin fabrics iOr indoor entertain
meuIs and evening wear. An assemblage in
san Francisco Will compare iavOrabIy with q
the style anu elegance oi It's dressing; that is,
Within the limits pointed out, which somewhat
restrict the expression ot individual taste, and
prevent departures from accepted modes, the
differences Oeing almost wholly those imposed
by Climate.
THE HOME OF THE WRAP.
The wrap Is an important Institution where
II is unsafe 10 venture out ior any heightened
time without Que; and where, more or less, 1t is
needed all the year round. The present dressy
style OF small wraps exactly meets the climatic
requirements; but this fact would hardly ac-
count for the beauty and variety OF these gar
ments To be found in leading establishments Is,
IL the taste was uniformed as Is frequently
asserted. IL Is indeed u very curious TACT tnat
one finds in any one of several large drygoods
houses, very much Larger aud finer variety
OF imported wraps than can be found in
placed in the regular stock which at
the east would he considered quite
exceptional In style and quality and only
shown to exclusive customers. some Of these
very rIeniy beaded, others embroidered in
solid gold thread aud all having the true
Parisian style and finish. We found also u line
OF youthful French wraps; deep, fitted capes
with sling sleeves; scArI manteiets, with
without Oeads aud WIN long ends, some square.
some gathered, but all silk lined and nnished
with the artistic bronze button and heavy satin
Loops anu ends, which aud 50 much To the
Eurs are used and there is q reason for the
existence Oh the iur-trimmed suit or jacket and
Also Ior collar ami nun, but the long seaiskin
coat is too ueavy and the cape Is out of place,
tor ii ieases the arms Uncovered. There Is only
one kind OF long cloak sui ted to the needs OF the
ladies OF the Pacific coast, and That is those Ot
cioaks oil fne Cloth, lined with ''Sxrsnet,'' worn
b. the bellies of a injury agu, would not be un-
suited to the wants OF San Francisco lady of
to-uay anu II Is not among the impossiOilities
that tuey may be revived, for u straight. long
Cape sleeves, Is exhiOiLed one oil the incoIn-
lug les, and is only n modernized version Of
the CLOAK OF our great YrandnULners.
SPECIALITY SHOPS.
One of the evidences Of the growth of San
Francisco in The direction Of fashionable 0is-
tlnction Is the number and importance OF its
shops devoted to speciaIties in styles or gar
ments. One OF these exhibits Ouiy eorsets and
tDuTIsures; another, all kinds OF lovely under
wear, and third, India goods aud fabrics IN
Guiding very nne variety o: india shawIs
ehaws here are fnore used aud uiore useful
than al the east They can be worn all the
year round. Grapes, pongees and India null
are perhaps more used in Southern Caiiior MIA
than in the city oi San Francisco, which
possesses climate OF It's own. But
the line shops display them In loveiy
tints ana quail les al very moderate prices,
door wear, tue saline al the east. Embroid-
cred Grape scarIs nandkercniefs and snoui ler
sIawIs are display Ed IN pfOIuSlon and variety
anu be utilized iu many ways; sucn ;is Tor
full vests anu trimmings Tue newest faces are
aso procuraDIe, as weII as selected styles the
rarest European manufacturers and needle
workers. The TASTES III lace seem to be almost
more European than with Us al tue east. There
are more vi the rich Uiack guipures and nne
hand-run Spanish lStces worn over black silk
and satin, and tue limitations OF Cnantily that
are demanded by ladies' VINO make any prelen-
SION 10 fashion are very close indeeo, fOr they
are generally perfectly familiar with costly
speciinens Oh the original.
GLOVES.
The length of the glove, its character tint
and knoSiedge OF the shade and kind adapted
10 different purposes, indicates, as uch Is any
other one thing, the degree OF taste and cully,s-
tou possessed by the Ladies' OF any commuuity.
and, la this minor matter, san Francisco l. moi
behind any modern city There are not the
elnDrOluerS which are put on exhibition, but
rarely Morn, in Paris and New YORK; Dul every
shade, degree and kind of nne dressed and un-
dressed KID glove, silk glove and thread glove
be found al any of the large IurnIs Ding
houses, and there is, Desdes, glove manufac-
exactly as at Paris. Lonaon and New York, the
qualify ana nj of certain kinds being, IL Is said
equal to the Lest Paris makers.
IHis, perl APPS, may be Laken with some grains
OF allowance, lew are familiar with The very
besI Paris Kid gloves, b1t tt must be remem-
bered tiaI equality Is q claimed with tue
highest eAeeiiSHce, or with ali iuoS OF glov es.
SAN Frauclsco has two ornamental special
Ties, Que oi which consists OF jewels made OF
quartz: the ther, Of ornaments aud jewels
originally mounted in rousf-almost virgin
eO.4, aud Is then ex xpensiye. but very beautiful