The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1886-05-14
FASHION s.
What to Wear and How to Wear 1t.
SPRING Toilets.
Harper's Bazaar.

SPRING TOILETS.
Harper's Bazaar.
Stripes have at last obtained favor, and
are leading feature in the fabrics of various
| toilettes. For the street are tailor suits Of
dark woolens, with hair stripes of white or
of contrasting color: for mornings at home
are satteens and lawns with wider stripes :;
for afternoons are striped Louisines and
other summer silks, with many of the favor
tie magpie stripes of black and white alter
nateiy; for combinations are plush-striped
CLEANLINESS to use with cashmeres; and there
are striped moires striped ribbons, striped
embroideries, and finally the new striped
laces which come in Chantilly designs in
black, and in wrought stripes of white and
ecru on pale-tinted lisse grounds.
Among the tailor suits most worn are dark
blue, Havana brown, or black woolens with
white pencilled stripes third of an inch
apart. These are made up in simple fashion
with kilt skirt, short apron drapery, and
very long full back drapery, with all the
pleats at the top-not on the sides-and
these pleats are defined the whole length of
the back breadths. The kilt pleats are Ell
Their very narrow or very wide those of me-
dunn width are not liked) and their only
trimming is two or three rows of stitching
above hem. The basque is very short, with
fiat position back pressed In small pleats,
and the waist line is defined by Two buttons
or small flat mouldS covered with the dress
goods. The neck has very narrow rolling
collar, notched like that of mans morning
coat and showing high white linen collar,
with white silk scarf knotted as gentlemen
wear theirs. The entire edge of the basque,
+l,af yrrlcfc
bound with braid, or have two rows OF
stitching without braid, or else braid may be
set on the wrong side to show as cord at
the edge, with one row of stitching. above,
White chemisettes are in great favor this
spring, and may be put in permanently as
p1astron when they are made of crepe lisse
or muslin, pique or duck, and are then often
extended to form vests. In the latter case
they may be strapped across twice below the
bust, or there may be, belt ana buckle
crossing them just at the waist line Soft
pleated null or Grape plastronS are in very
elegant dresses, not only of fine woolens, but
of silks, and these sometimes haye finely
pleated surah frillsidown their whole length,
and are usually edged with velvet reverS OF
dark shade.
With the severe tailor suits worn with
masculine collar and cravat, young ladies'
wear high straw hat the color of the dress,
made of rough straw, or else in an open
braid that has no lining. The brim turns up
closely behind, and rolls also on the left side,
while the right side is straight, or in extreme
cases is fattened low:against the head. The
brim is bound with velvet, and marrow vel,
vet band encircles the crown. A ladder OF
cross hows of ribbon may extend up the back
Of 9th the crown, or else it may have long erect
loops, with bunch Of long ao Stemmed bios
For older ladies to wear with tailor all suits
the newest bonnets are OF rough darh straw,
that the 1t extremely high bows of last season
may may be be dispensed with, and instead 70,
settle of velvet ribbon is used; these may
be of one or more colors. This trimming
is also seen on the black tulle 9onnetS W1 worn
with dressy black suits, and is especially
pretty ast wi When the fashionable ,Pistache
green is used with pale lemon yellow, and