Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1886-10-30

NhS'o Iop CoHHlou. Everyone employs
4 special artist who makes outline
sketches OF the models received from
abroad, of which no two among any num-
Der from 1ve TO nifty VIII be alike.
These outline figures preserve the pure
worm and are more suggestive as a base 10
work from than the dressed no designs
loaded with trimming and drapery,
which all look alike, and the same this
year as last.
EVOLUTION OF FASHIONS.
New fashions are of slow growth. 1t is
very rarely that any revolution in fashion
occurs; the conventional mind does not
admit OF it. The high prIestess in anv
ordinary temple of lashion-that is to say,
leading modtste-whle all the time on the
LOOKOUT tor ideas, is very careful not to
adopt any which may seem outre or too
aesthetic. The woman of fashion some
times considers an ugly thing ad orable !;
nut she Is shy OF whatever may have a
bohemian or professional flavor.
a recently arrived English actress ap-
peared at the theatre one evening, in
winch she was going to play, in a long
cloak OF dark plush, lined with old gold
satin and bakers cap to match, above an
aureole OF lovely fair hair. She was seen
by society lady, who mad just purchased
an imported CLOAK very much like it, at a
cost OF $500. She Immediately took IL
back and mad it cut up into small, I'M
undlstlnguishable and undistinguished
garment.
1t ls not now a matter OF knowledge or
taste when women is we'll or completely
dressed; it is merely a matter of money.
There are hundreds of women in New
YORK city who never bestow thought
upon their clothes, except to give an order
for what they want. The modiste selects
ial 1aly LA 4
supplies not only the requisite trimmings
and finish, but the shoes. the capote or hat,
II one be required; even the hose and
proper mouehoir.
One mistake is uniformly made. and
that is, in making the elaborate "tea
gown" do duty as a morning dress. The
lea gown is of English origin. 1t is only
OF late that it has become naturalized in
Paris. English ladies' wear these long,
loose, graceful gowns for O'Clock tea,
which always assumes the character of
an informal reception; but even in the
afternoon and for social event few of
them would display the richness of fabric
which Is here seen ID gowns used only as
morning wrappers. One brought over
lately was made with princess back aud
train OF leaf brown striped and figured
velvet and VelOntine. The fronts were of
striped velvet and open, lace-like en-
broldery, lined with pale satin, and the
entire font was of shrimp pink crane,
tied across diagonally with wide, brown
satin franchise ribbon.
MORNING DRESSES
that are not gowns" that is, cut in the
princess style, all in one, are crooks :"
and for these the ''Old fashioned" back is
in vogue and meyenage body, cut Off three
inches at the back below the line OF the
waist, the three bask widths OF the skirt
"A inches wide gathered to IL sewed in
heavy seam on the wrong side" then
turned over and the folds allowed to fall
straight to the floor.
Some pretty morning dresses have been
made OF red nuns yelling, with garniture
OF cream lace en- cascade and satin ribbon
Ia the shade OF pompeian red tor decOra-
ton. Ribbons are more used for the deco.
ration OF indoor dresses than ever before
and are lovely in tint and color, The
most fashionable are solid, with picot and
other fancy edges; but there are striped
ribbons which are used fiat, in coniunc-
ton with plain materials.
But, perhaps, the most novel OF all the
morning robes are those Of red chuddah
wool lined with red silk and strapped
across a. silk, plated front, with square
tongues of the material, fastened with
old, silver buckles. e
Last winter toe straight, full skirt, used
now for indoors and some cloth walking
dresses, was employed Tor evening wear.
Even vet, some handsome lace dresses,
both black and wbits1 are simply gathered
over the silk or satin skirt, aud caught
up here and there as the wearer chooses,
with ribbons or flowers. ribbons belag the
more generally employed. But the new
est evening dresses display more elabora-
ton In their arrangement. The en-
broldered gauZe, tulle or lace, Is made
over satin, with plated satin panel, front
or part OF drapery united in the design
with the thin material. The low satin
bodice Is draped with the diaphOnOus
material, and the double, suel-shaped
sleeves, caught up 10 the centre, are en-
tirely of this fabric, with loops or bows
OF ribbon, which emphasize the height
upon the shoulder. Feathers are used,
also, and birds-tO the shame of the wear
ers be it said; for in these days, when
every one reads VINO can, ignorance
and thoughtlessness are no longer eX-
cuses for inhumaDity.
THE REDINGoTK DRESS
figures largely among imported style
Ii is usually made in wool and com bined
with velvet, in quite a novel fashion,
which is Russian in its picturesque effect.
The back OF the body is cut with a spring,
and to 1t the skirt is gathered, sewed and
turned over, 50 that IL hangs straight and
1ull IN large folds, which are not fiat. The
fronts are cut all in one and sometimes
with side flaps. which may or may not
conceal pockets; or they Wall show flap
on the right side and broad, sash end of
velvet with one large, fat loop on the
other. the fronts are b0rdered with vel
vet, put on win herring-bone stitch in red
or yellow silk. The wool, which is q soft
fabric with long hairs. is OF late design,
showing also, under the dark surface,
specks Of the same bright color. The
petticOat may be OF velvet or OF wool, bOr-
dered aud striped down the front, with
bands OF velvet put on with herring. bone
stitch to match the finish on The fronts of
the TedingOte. The effect is simple but
striking aud distinguished. 1t ougnt to
be worn with Russian cap of velvet.
The hand finish Of embroidery in beads,
silk or wool, is still the finest touch which
can be put upon velvet and wool; but the
work is now executed in straight lines or
is employed as an ornamental way of
putting on flat velvet or ribbon Trim
mIngs. The herring bone and other sim
pie, Old fashioned stitches are found also
woven into some OF the imported
fabrics as an edge 70 velvet ami plush
stripes, or form clustered lines OF color
upon a neutral surface.
Although dotted aud hairy and tuited
cloths are in the majority, they have not
entirely driven out the always well worn
cashmere. An imported dress, or rather
one brought over by lady who has lust
A I.