Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1886-02-27


BLACK GRAPE is used to cover crimson satin
PLUSH continues the favorite fabric for man.
tells.
STRINGS OF BEADS are used to loon nm long
| trains when dancing
CHEMIsETTES of fancy white muslin are worn
| under Figaro jackets
PALE PINK TULLE is covered with carnations
| In silver and iridescent beads
EMBRoIDERIEs AND BEADS being still in
favor, nat trimmings will. predominant
JULIE IN EVENING SHADES is studded with
| large pearl beads of corresponding tints
LOOPS OF MARROW RIBBON arranged in cas-
cades are very fashionable for bali dresses.
YELLOW, pale as the mimosa and brilliant as
sunlight is to retain its hold upon popular
favor.
boNNETs are to be small and hats high, and
the turban so fancied by our English cousins is
the J,tste mifieu between the extremes.
IHE FASHION of seven years ago of wearing
piack giants de Suede on full dress occasions is
Slowly approaching the present season.
ALPACA MoHAIR is one of the new fabrics
used in Paris for evening dresses, the favorite
tints being turquoise blue and shell pink.
SOFT WOODEN FABRICS, with striped borders
with medieval designs and coloring, are to be
worn, as Well as those with the brighter Roman
stripes.
ONE OF THE SPECIAL FEATURES of the COM
ing season will be the use of deep flouncings OF
wool lace over skirts of colored surah and faille
Franchise.
SOME OF THE CAMEL's HAIR GooDs for early
spring have borders composed of alternate rows
OF beads and frise braid, corresponding in color
| to the fabric.
FINE CORDUROY is among the desirable ma
| terials for walking suits. 1t is made up by
| itself, or in combination with cashmere, cancels
hair serge or Irish poplin.
COSTUMES OF blue, brown, garnet and black
plain velvet, trimmed profusely with jet, are
the first choice for this month for dressy out
| door wear.
WooLLEN CANVAS in all the spring colors,
has tiny iecks OF bright-colored wool, and is
used in combination with material of the same
tone with darker stripes
TUssoRE SILK with frise floral designs and
gros surah are new silk materials for spring
wear. The surah has a soft rich twill, and the
1ussore is used for drapery for silk or velvet
LADIES who like some fullness in the backs
| OF dresses and do not like the feeling of the
present tournure are using skirts with several
heavy ruf11es at the back. These very stiffiy
Starcned, and are LETT without ironing, the
| cloth being smoothed by the hands.
| JERSEYS are now made in a variety of ways.
Some of them have plated chemisettes of vel
vet with cuffs to correspond; Others are laced
over full plastrOns of contrasting harmonic
ing surah, and Still Others are covered with
Drald SO that but little of the original material
| is seen.
CREPE LIssE AND GAUZE are daintily em-
| broidered with silk, and are in all the evening
colors as well as in white or black. The fabric
is so diaphanous that the design seems spun in
air. This lace is to be had in widths broad
enough for the entire length of the skirt and in
| trimming widths to correspond.
| FINE FRENCH CASHMERES are largely i'm
ported by first-class merchants and will be used
in combination with the new sheer fabrics that
are striped all over with plush or with velvet,
The so1test dull colOrs are seen in these cash.
| meres, but most prominent are the bronze
and moss green shades and all ecru and beige
tints.
RED IS SHOWN in a clear dark ruby and
some medium shades OF cardinal. A good deal
OF scarlet is used in millinery, and full dresses
of bright red are seen, many red jackets, and a
| lew short wraps. newcaprice is a short wrap
o! red broadcloth, with trimming of red and
| black or red and olive chenille and braid
| fringe.
NEW LACE FLoUNCINGs, forty inches deep,
come in perpendicular stripes running from
the edge of the f1ounce upward and two-thirds
| of the way across the width. They are in some
| cases very heavy, and others are very light and
delicate. Many of the deep embroideries have
merely etchingS above the rather pronounced
ana heavy Egyptian edgings.
JET AND CoLoRED IRIDESCENT BEADS also
brown wood beads for brown dresses, are again
| imported in galloons that have straight edges,
| or else with one edge only scaloped and the
upper edge straight, to form dog collars and
| cults, and also in very large ornaments that
| will cover the entire back of nantes. or else
| their fronts in vest shape.
A DEVICE OF THE MoDISTES to prevent the
| skirt being thrust forward at every step of the
'wearer is that OF making three Sits upward in
the foot of the front breadth of the foundation
skirt. Each of these Sits is two or three inches
| long, and the braid which binds the skirt ex-
tends up the Sits also. OF course these open
spaces are hidden entirely. by the outside skirt.
| A RICH DINNER DRESS OF pale yellow satin
| and blue-black velvet has the overdress OF the
velvet lined with satin. The satin petticOat
and chemisette are covered with duchesse lace
The bodice is cut halt low and has full turn
over collar of the lace and elbow sleeves to cor
respond. The train of this dress falls in stragh bit
| folds from the tournure, which is kept in place
by stiff frills which line the inside OF the skirt
| A BALL DRESS OF PALE PINK FAILLE ha 8
the skirt covered with cream-embroidered
| gauze. The pointed bodice is bordered around
| the shoulders with wide pearl embroidery and
a scarf OF the embroidered gauze passes over the
left shou der. A broad ceinture of pearls encir-
Gle the end OF the bodice where the drapery of
the skirt is fastened and holds the drapery in
position Oh the left side, terminating in a circu-
lar ornament and long pendants.
! EVERY EVENING DRESS should have a fan en-
suite, If the rule of Partisan fashion is to be
strictly followed. The fan need not necessarily
| be costly. Given a fan of marabout feathers
1 with a spray of feather or velvet flowers, a bird
or an aigrette mounted on a handle of pale tor
| toise-sheli, the handle may do duty for several
/ fans, only the marabout need be changed. The
| other accessories may be chosen TO harmonic
| with any tint OF plumage.
| VELVET anu ALSO pluSu Will remain In FAVOR
as the accessories of summer tolettes, to 'sgiye
character" as the modistes say, to many fab
RIGS that are almost colorless. For instance, a
| spring visiting costume OF moss green cashmere
will have long redingOte-pOlonaise OF the CASH
| mere, which meets in front only at a single
| point in the cOrsage, and on this will be wide
| DirectOire revers Of darker green velvet, a dog
collar OF velvet, narrow cuffs of the same belt
with buckle, and large sQuare-cornered pockets
| OF velvet on each side, held by buckles or but
tons.
The GAYETIES of the winter season have
| still two weeks and a half to run before they
| vanish into the sombre days of Lent. The fact
| that the penitential season comes so much later
| this year than usual has had the natural effect
of keeping up the demand for gOssamer ball
dresses. The materials for these airy garments
were never more beautiful than now while the
great variety OF fabrics has rendered it an easy
matter TO choose a material suitable to the
occasion and the circumstances of the wearer.
A MAIZE SATIN DRESS is covered with cas-
cades of cream lace, panel of eleven f1ounces
| of the lace adorns the left side, each fiouuce
being edged with amber beads. The pointed
bodice is trimmed in the same manner, the
| f1Ouuces diminishing in size from the neck to
the point OF the bodice An amber necklace
| and amber hair ornaments complete the toll
lette. The stylish wrap to be worn with this
dress is of white satin, brOcaded with yellow
| frise velvet. The mantle is lined with yellow
| satin, and is fringed with chenille and with
| amber beads.
STRIPES, SASHES, LENGrHwIsE PLEATEs
ID Ru~ nd