Butte semi-weekly miner. [volume] (Butte, Mont.) 1886-1890, 1886-11-03

nose that has not been raised in the busi-
ness smells four or five samples Of cologne,
the flavor of each will lager in the nostrils,
and then an inferior and poorer odor, ii in
|troduced to these lingering scents, in almost
every case will form pleasing combination
that is thought to be satisfactory. For
the time being it will lie, but afterward the
compounder of colognes will be called a
fraud. The sense of smell is widely differ
ent in individuals, and the imagination
helps along wonderfully.
WHAT ACUTE NOSES CAN DO.
As a matter OF experiment have placed
the same kind OF cologne i'll twelve bottles
labeled differently, and have had people
| take smell OF all the dottles and detect
the resemblance OF each one to the flower
mentioned Oh the label. Again have seen
noses so acute that they would put out
from combination OF odors each ingredi-
ent and rarely would any be missed. This
is wonderful thing. but the nose can be
trained to do it, and the cologne maker
must have the faculty in order to make up
any kind of cologne from q given sample.
This explains the method by which the IA
nous colognes are initiated and dealer
can hardly start new brand on the mar.
ket before every one in the business is max
| ing the same thing.
"The best perfumes are made from flow
ers. The effort that is being made to ex-
tract perfumes from petroleum and other
things will prove abortive, as they can
never equal the delicacy OF the odor Of q
genuine floor. The amount of cologne
| made in America is enormous, but it does
not approach the quantity manufactured
in Europe, where it's use is well nigh univer-
sal. In this country perfumes are made
from the original flowers only on a small
In ov,l - so% po1xy %<~
so into general competition on such a basis.
The odors are nearly all imported in the
shapes OF oils and essences, and from these
as q base the colognes are made. In many
foreign countries whole communities are
supported by cultiyatipg and gathering
flowers. The cut flowers are usually placed
in large watts upon which a proportlonate
amount OF water is poured. After it has
stood for a certain time the process of
evaporation is hastened by heat, and tho
oil in the flowers passes into vapor. This
is then condensed, and the oil is found
floating on the water. The oil seems to con-
tain the aromit principle OF the plat, To
make essence from the oil it is usually mix
ed with alchol. Some of the oils are 40
volatile that they cannot be gathered in this
manner. They will fly off in the process OF
disstillation with water. and the delicate
suggestions OF sweetness are lost. To obvi-
ate this heavy or fixed oil is employed.
It is usually the finest grade OF beef suet.
This by heat is converted into a liquid
state and the flowers are put intoit. The
oder of the plant will pass into the fixed oil
and be held a prisoner. Some alcohol is
also used in this method, and it is in the
shape of beef suet paste laden with the FRA
GRANGE of many beautiful flowers that much
OF our perfume is imported.
HOW PERFUMES ARE GATHERED.
''The famous altar OF roses is made
from the Rosa Damascena, which grows
like a weed in Smyrna. and in some parts
OF Turkey and France, though the growth
is comparatively small in the latter
country. The natives OF these places col.
lect this oil in simple manner. The roses
are placed in water, and after decomposi-
ton sets in the oil floats on the surface
and it is absorbed by cotton balls deity
dipped into the liquid. The cotton under
pressure gives up this oil, which is bottled
duce only few drops OF Oil. The genuine
is the most expensive oil in the market,
and worth $32 an ounce. 1t is adulterated
with oil of rhodium, wax and other sub
stances, and the price is arranged to suit
tlle purchaser. The strength OF this oil
makes it sickening in it's natural state.
The adulteration has reached such a high
state of perfection that even the most ex-
pert are deceived by it.
"Patchoul is made from natural plant
growing in great abundance in the Malay
Islands, and is a great favorite as per-
fume. There is growing demand now for
lavender water. 1t is made by mixing rose
and orange waters with the oil OF lavender,
and has a refined and pleasant as well az
refreshing odor. The English oil OF laven-
der is the best that is on the market, and
besides being used as perfume is a favor
ite article in bakeries as q flavor for cakes
and fancy products. 1t is a high stimulant
and efficient aid to digestion until the sys-
tenn becomes used to it. and then it is lia-
BILE to breed one of the worst forms OF dys-
pepsia. The lavender shrub and the jessa-
mine plant are cultivated to a large extent
in England and France for this industry.
The genuine heliotrope is not as fine au
odor as the imitation. The latter is known
as the white heliotrope and is made from
combination of violet and vanilla,
and has soporific tendency if
breathed for any length OF time.
Bergamot, which with musk forms the
the staple perfume OF the colored popula-
ton, is a comparatively cheap oil. 1t is
made from small species OF lemon, tho
best quality of which grows in the island
OF Sicily, and is cultivated specially for this
purpose. The fruit is picked while hard
and unripe, and it takes about 400 to pro-
duce pint OF oil under pressure. Berga-
mot is a slight irritant, and it is said will
raise hair on a bald head. The destin-
gushing mark OF the tube rose in strength,
while the violet is light and pure. The YER
lena wytQnce great favorite, but it is
now raPalv called for. The rose geranium
makes an elegant perfume and is nearly
as good as the altar OF roses. The lily OF
the valley produces one of the richest per-
fumes, and the lemon, orange and daffodil
! are much thought OF.
| "But the best perfumes are combinations
OF the original odors. There are about
100 OF them, many OF them which have
had their day. The secret OF a combina-
ton is to mix the odors SO that mono is
prominent and all are lost. The best two
are the ancient eau de cologne and the
cashmere bouquet. To mix the odors so
that they blend perfectly is difficult. One
great obstacle is that when the odors are
mixed one or more OF them will fade away
and disappear, having seemingly been neu-
tralzed and worn out by time. New
| York Tribune