The Portland daily press., 1886-10-20
OUR FOREIGN LETTER.
Especial correspondence of the PRESS.
crrrTTc Apt ANN NANcy


STUTTGART AND NANCY.
Between Munich and Paris we made but
two stops, at Stuttgart and Nancy. We
think one of our Portland citizens very for
tunate in having his consulship located al
Stuttgart. We were sorry to arrive soon af-
ter his departure for America. Stuttgart
furnishes all the accessories and opportuni-
ties for delightful home. The climate is
moderate in winter, while its summers must
be long and luxurious. The people can
boast little in fine arts. There are several
villas with beautiful gardens here among
which the King is privileged to divide his
summers and make his winter home in the
city palace
We were at Wilhelmina the day the SER
wants were putting it in order for the So
journ of his majesty's household there dur
ing the month of May. 1t has everything
essential to human happiness in the palace
and parks; still, we felt we should have Sc
lected for our own abode either of the other
two country seats, which the King does not
fancy.
Rosenheim is one Of these kingly homes
which the government keeps in order for its
own credit and for the benefit of strangers.
1t is ornamented with great number of fine
pictures and has one gallery of sculpture.
This place has quiet dignity and elegant
simplicity about the grounds and buildings
that would become the residence of a true
nobleman and benefcent king; but the AL
hambra, said to be an exact reproduction of
the Spanish Alhambra even in the little de-
tails of its appointments, was our ideal
han Nxyhn ocf fhnr ybof bAAr
queen or subject, could realize her full cup
of earthly happiness in the midst of a house
full of romping children. In the palace are
suites Of rooms furnished and decorated In
the fashions of various eastern nations, and
filed to oyerfowing with pictures, vases and
sumptuous draperies. The gardens were one
line of Towering tulips as far as the ey es
could reach In them also were hundreds Of
magnolia trees bowed down to the ground
with creamy and rosy blooms. Each petal
was like a tinted sea shell. We would gladly
take the chances of the petty annoyances of
our domestic arrangements if we could be-
gin life once again at the Alhambra in SUIT
CART.
In all these beautiful homes there is not
chick nor a child to people the paradise and
fill its bowers and halls with music. Not
football is heard on the premises, and except
the gardeners gossiping with the woman at
the lodge, there is not the sound of human
voice. During the reignsof the present mon
arch domestic life has been unknown either
at Rosenheim or the Alhambra. 1t is mourn
full 10 see these, with many other ancestral
residences scattered over Europe, deserted
and desolate, which ought to be the centres
of happy family circles or institutions for
the public veal. These places are heavy
tax upon the over-burdened people, since
they require well paid superintendent and a
large corps of workmen to keep them in
order.
We spent one forenoon in the old town of
Nancy, which being the border town be-
tween two hostile nations for three centu-
ries has been the scene of many conflicts
and sieges. The rural life of the French
people is very unique and picturesque here.
In driving about the outskirts of the city we
met peasant leading noble pair of Jersey
oxen, whose coats were as sleek as
if they were kept in Elysian fields. About
their necks were garlands of roses, from their
horns they tossed gilt tassels and their bri-
dies were tied with festoons and fringes,
which gave them a very festive look. A card
describing the good qualities of the beast was
fastened to their foreheads. They were fol-
lowed by a crowd of children, and the men
and women rushed to the gates to admire
them. As they were passing an inn the
keeper came out to treat the driver to wine.
On inquiring what all this fuss was about,
our driver German, told us in a few ex-
pressiye words, 'Oh, in four days we shall
eat flesh" That was just 1.-THE butcher,
taking advantage of the famished stomachs
of the people after the seven weeks of Lent,
goes about telling the villagers that he shall
Stay these fine creatures on Saturday, and if
they wish to break their fast on Easter morn
with an extra tenderloin steak, now is their
chance to engage a slice. This was droll
way to make their mouths water and fill his
own Golfer.
We found Paris much as we left it, only
greener and gayer with the Easter holiday
festivals. These fete days bring great
crowds in the streets and fill the windows
with luscious fruit and lovely flowers to tempt
the stranger, but they present some unex-
pected obstacles to work and certain sorts of
recreation, which appeared to us consistent
with the proper observance of any church
holiday, except that of the holy Sabbath day,
set apart as sacred from the foundation of
the world. We noticed that on the Pope's
holy days neither influence nor money
would give us admittance to picture CALLER
les, museums and libraries, but on the Lords
holy day we could go anywhere for nothing.
We went on Easter morning to Notre
Dame, and stood with the five thousand as
they partook of the bread which the priests
blessed in their presence. 1t was borne in
huge baskets on the heads of the under Off
Gals of the church.
At the Louvre we missed, the shrivelled
old man whom everybody has seen for years
working patiently over his exquisite paint
ing of the interior of the Napoleonic gallery
When we were there last summer he was so
feeble he would drop asleep and let his brush
fall but the step of the tourist would wake
him, and inspired with faint hope of pur-
chaser, he would put a few meaningless
touches on the canvas. Those who frequent
the gallery say he has labored YEARLY from
January to December for years on this one
picture His corner was swept clean OF all
his utensils, and we wondered if he would
never return, and into whose hands his idol
would fall.
Once more on the wings of the wind we
swept the English Channel, and as we hailed
the shores of England our hearts bounded as
if we had been long from home We find
our affections are fast twining around the
home of our adoption, and we would fain
hold back the wheels of time that hasten our
departure. We shall wander about her green
wales and revelin her pastoral beauties, un-
til we turn our faces Westward toward our
native land. We can never say a last fare |
well to Old England and shall part with her |
with tender regrets and heartfelt longing for |
the an rerOir. NJ. c. 2. b.
Tho shin Storm King has been sold to the |